tr teste Sear hain iia * aes Rew Ne Mtemee! So ap SER eT sae Hid Spat ETRE Ga ataoee . ins Ss BREN EL AOR VITESSE eh a Mn nt Seryees. r zs ord OD ~ . a oes * ’ WW hy as 9 AD Mh ner, par hie Ae ' a Bic " hy od i if a | wf vy ee Ih 0) a i Mi pi ake i Lt AR i U ny) Peay , b » 4 i Li r hale ie ‘aT oki ae ar = 7. LAD the -e,| Hy *, " 7 ris as pik 2 ma ie a Ts - f i oe i ae oS , } * oy as wee, Ae pee eS A eee ee ECan y Ln AA PE Phe ria. i, : : aL Ae 4 Pi LANDSCAPE # « GARDENING NOTES AND SUGGESTIONS ON LAWNS AND LAWN PLANTING-—LAYING OUT AND ARRANGEMENT OF COUNTRY PLACES, LARGE AND SMALL PARKS, CEM- ETERY PLOTS, AND RAILWAY-STATION LAWNS—DE- CIDUOUS AND EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS—THE HARDY BORDER—BEDDING PLANTS—ROCKWORK, ETC. BY SAMUEL PARSONS, Jr. SUPERINTENDENT OF PARKS, NEW YORK CITY ILLUSTRATED / or 5 Ee # a ‘*T should prefer the delights of a garden to the dominion of a world.”’—Joun Apams 0»? Te Cc ; GuPy PURINA MES SONS NEW YORK LONDON 27 WEST TWENTY-THIRD STREET 27 KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND The Rnickerbocker Press 18901 re: CopYRIGHT, 1891 BY SAMUEL PARSONS, Jr. The tnickerbocker Press, Tew Work Electrotyped, Printed, and Bound by G. P. Putnam’s Sons a) JE. 4 WF \ wa Zy ysis Le CONTENTS: INTRODUCTION @ECARASRe ele THE LAWN . ; : : ; CECA RAP Re ue THE TREATMENT OF SLOPING GROUNDS CHAPTER. TU. SPRING EFFECTS ON THE LAWN CHAPTER IV: TREES AND SHRUBS FOR JUNE EFFECTS ON THE LAWN CHAPTER, iV; THE FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SUMMER CHAPTER VI. GREEN AUTUMNAL FOLIAGE CHAPTER VII. AUTUMNAL COLOR ON THE LAWN CHAPTER. VIE LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT il “of Ronn eo. & PAGE 15 32 53 88 106 114 135 1V COW TENRS: CHAP Tiina GARDEN FLOWERS CHEAP Raa AND\ S d GRANDMOTHER’S GARDEN CHAPTER Xa. BEDDING PLANTS CHEAP AER Sale THE ORNAMENTATION OF PONDS AND LAKES CEA Pan Roni LAWN-PLANTING FOR SMALL PLACES . CHAP DE Re Cn’ City PARKS. CHAPTER XV. RAILWAY, CHURCHYARD, AND CEMETERY LAWN-PLANTING CEUAP AIRS 2X Vale NOOKERIES ON THE HOME GROUNDS CHAPTER XVil My FRIEND THE ANDROMEDA PAGE iS) 201 216 238 156) a7 1 Ns 397 Bre ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE THE POND EFFECT—LOTUSES AND WATER-LILIES . : ; c Frontispiece LAWN IN CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK, NEAR THE NORTH END OF THE MALL . 17 RouGH UNGRADED BANK. 5 : : 18 CLOSELY MASSED ROCKS ON FINISHED STEEP BANK 19 PARTLY FINISHED RocKY BANK READY FOR PLANTING 21 ENTRANCE TO CAVE IN THE RAMBLE, CENTRAL PARK, NEw YORK 23 STEPS LEADING TO CAVE IN THE RAMBLE, CENTRAL Park, NEW York 25 STONE BRIDGE ADJOINING LARGE NATURAL ROCK, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK 27 Yucca RECURVA : : j ‘ 29 YELLOW JASMINE ( Fasminwm nudiflorum) 35 WEEPING GOLDEN BELL (forsythia suspensa) 39 FLOWERING DoGWoob (Cornus Florida) 40 DOUBLE-FLOWERING APPLE (Py7ws spectabilis) : 41 THE DOUBLE-FLOWERING CHERRY (Prunus cerasus, fl. pl.) 42 SOULANGE’S MAGNOLIA (JZagnolia Soulangeana) 43 * JAPAN WEEPING CHERRY . : : 45 JAPANESE MAGNOLIA (JZagnolia stellata) . 46 ENGLISH HAWTHORN (Crategzus oxyacantha) 47 ENGLISH HAWTHORN (Crategus oxyacantha) 48 DEuTZIA GRACILIS 49 AZALEA MOLLIS : 9 49 TREE PEONY (Peonta arborea) . 50 COMMON PuRPLE LILAC (Syringa vulgaris) 51 JAPANESE MAPLE ‘ 5 : é ; : 58 HOorRSE-CHESTNUT TREES, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK 61 RED-FLOWERiING HORSE-CHESTNUT (“¢scalus rubicunda) . 62 WHITE-FLOWERING HORSE-CHESTNUT (4 sculus rubicunda) 63 CHIONANTHUS VIRGINICA . 64 RHODODENDRON : 6 : 68 PINXTER FLOWER (Azalea nidi flora) 69 BROAD-LEAVED LAUREL (Kalmia latifolia) 69 GorRDON’s MOCK ORANGE (PAiladelphus Gordonianus) 72 * From a photograph taken by Mr. Paul Dana from a specimen on the lawn of Mr. Charles A. Dana, Dosoris, L. I. Vv v1 ILL OSTRATTONS. DEU?TzIA CRENATA, 2. A/. EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA : : SWEET-SCENTED SHRUB (Bieanithas. ‘Floveaus), : : : : : : YELLOW JAPANESE KERRIA (Kerria Faponica) . : : : 6 : : RED-FLOWERING WEIGELIA ( Weigelia rosea) VIBURNUM OPULUS . : : : : : ; : F P : FouR GOOD CLEMATISES . : ; : ; : _ WISTARIA SINENSIS . ; : k : 3 : 3 : WISsTARIA ARBOR, CENTRAL PARK, New Vor JAPAN RAMANAS ROSE (Rosa rugosa rubra) NOBLE SILVER FIR (Abies nobilis). AMERICAN BEECHES (agus ferruginea) . ; : : c 2 ; é DouBLE-FLOWERING ALTHEA (//ibiscus Syriacus, fl. pl.) . d 5 : SWEET PEPPER BuSH (Clethra alnifolia) . : ; : 5 DwarF FLOWERING HORSE-CHESTNUT TREES (Cascais pervesora) : ; : CHINESE CYPRESS (Glyptostrobus sinensis) . : : ; : : . - JAPAN Ivy es mpelopsis tricuspidata . ‘ ‘ 3 - . . : : DuTcHMAN’s PIPE (Aristolochia sipho) : SWEET-SCENTED CLEMATIS (Clematis flammutla) : : TRUMPET CREEPER ( Zecoma radicans) . : ; : : c : . INDIAN BEAN (Catalpa bignonioides) . : : : 3 : : ; WEEPING BEECH (agus sylvatica pendula) ; é c : : : WEEPING BEECH IN WINTER . : : ; : : : : ELAAGNUS LONGIPES : : : ; : é . : : . * KENTUCKY COFFEE-T REE 0 : 2 ¢ : : : : : * LIQUID AMBAR : F : : ; : : : EUROPEAN OLEASTER (Bizauius eae) : ; ; 3 0 : : * ORIENTAL SPRUCE (Picea Orientalis) — . b 3 : . c . : WEEPING NORWAY SPRUCE AND DWARF PINE (Picea excelsa inverta and Pinus strobus compacta). ; : : é : ; : : : : CEDAR OF LEBANON (Cedrus Libant) . : 5 : 3 : ; , BHOTAN PINE (Pinus excelsa) : : : 5 : : . : : * MUGHO PINE (Pinus mughus) : : : é : : . : : GINKGO TREE, IRISH YEWS, AND WEEPING SOPHORA ‘ ‘ : : : * JAPAN PARASOL PINE (Sciadopitys vertictllata) : : : ; ; * OBTUSE-LEAVED JAPANESE CYPRESS (Ledinospora obtusa) < : . c PARSONS’ SILVER FIR, WEEPING NORWAY SPRUCE, AND WEEPING LARCH : HEART-LEAVED SAXIFRAGE(Saxifraga cordifolia). 5 , : : : Moss PINK (Phlox subulata) . . : : : c 5 ; EUROPEAN PASQUE-FLOWER (Anemone pulsatilla) . : 3 . : : STEMLESS GENTIAN (Gentiana acaulis) ‘ A 3 - : c : : ALPINE BARRENWORT (Epimedium Alpinum) . é : : . é ASTILBE JAPONICA . : . : : : - c 5 ¢ i NOBLE FumiTory (Corydalis nobilis) : 3 . : : < : F BLEEDING HEART (Dicentra spectabilis) . . . > : : : ; PAGE 72 73 73 M3 74 75 76 77 79 81 83 93 99 100 IOI 102 103 104 104 105 108 IIo iLO I12 I2I 125 127 141 143 144 145 147 148 149 I5I 153 158 159 160 161 162 163 163 164 * From a photograph taken by Mr. Paul Dana from a specimen on the lawn of Mr. Charles A. Dana, Dosoris, L. I. ILEOCS LicAd LIONS. vil PAGE SPRING MEADOW SAFFRON (Bulbocodium vernum) . : ; 3 : EeLOS PoeEt’s NARCIssuUS (WVarcissus poeticus) : ; ; : ; : : . 166 TRUMPET MAJOR (Varcissus major) . ‘ : : : . : : . 166 DAFFODIL (Warcissus pseudo-narcissus) . : : p : : ; 5 G7 FRAGRANT JONQUIL (Varcissus odorus) . ‘ : ; ‘ : ‘ 5 17 Crocus VERNUS : : 5 : : : : : 4 . 168 WINTER ACONITES (£7 ais hijewials) : ; : : é é ‘ 7 kos SNowDRopP (Galanthus nivalis) : : ; : ; ; : ; 7 169 SCARLET TURBAN LILY (Lilium pomponium) . ‘ ; : : = . 169 CRUCIANELLA STYLOSA : : : s : : : ‘ : 5 17 LILY OF THE VALLEY ; ; ; 5 yf MAIDEN’S PINK (Dianthus wliaide je AND THE ERE PLT ez HERBACEOUS PEONY (Ponta officinalis) . : ; . 4 : 5 eel 5 SLENDER-LEAVED PEONY (Ponta tenutfolia, fl. pl.) . : ; ' : 7 74! SEA LAVENDER (Statice latifolia) : : ‘ : ; ‘ ‘ : yf! Rock TUNICA (Zunica saxifraga) . : : : i f ; 4 75 ACHILLEA PTARMICA : ‘ : ‘ : : : : L7G YELLOW ASPHODEL (A sphodelus tuteus) ‘ : : : : F : E70 YELLOW CHAMOMILE (Axnthemts tinctoria) ‘ : ; ‘ : ‘ sh Ley AMERICAN SENNA (Cassia Marylandica) . : ; : : : ; 5 Le Gas PLANT (Dictamnus fraxinella) . 3 : : ; ‘ ; : . 180 GAILLARDIA GRANDIFLORA : 5 : : : F ; 5 . 5 usin GERANIUM SANGUINEUM . : s 3 : : 5 § é 5 We BowMan’s Root (Gillenia tr iliaca\\ 5 : ; : : : : 5 1 PLANTAIN LILY (/umkia ovata) . Z f : : ‘ : j : 5 tel} GERMAN IRIs (/77s Germanica) . F : ; : : 5 : : 5 BKSyAI LILIUM AURATUM . : : : : : ‘ ‘ : : ; 5 tela LILIUM SPECIOSUM . : : F : : ; ; F ; 5 hiss Turk’s-Cap LILy (Lilium super bani), : : : : : : : . 185 BUTTON SNAKEROOT (Liatris spicata) ; : : : : 3 : . 186 DOUBLE SCARLET LYCHNIS (Lychnis Chalcedonica, fl. pl.) . 5 : : = 186 PURPLE LOOSESTRIPE (Lythrum salicaria) ; : : : . : 2 187 PURPLE FLOWERING RASPBERRY (Rubus odoratus) . : : ; : 5 ites} PENTSTEMON BARBATUS (var. Zorreyi) . : : : : 5 : 5 ittsto) LARGE BELLFLOWER (Platycodon grandiflorum) : ; : : : a) 189 MEADOW SWEET (Sfir@a ulmaria) . : : : : : : LOO GENTIAN-LEAVED SPEEDWELL (Veronica ponanbies) é : 2 : LOG ReED-Hor POKER (77i/oma uvaria) . : : ‘ : F . : > Low CARDINAL FLOWER (Lodelia cardinalis) . : : 3 3 : ‘ BEELOS LEADWORT (Plumbago Larpente) . : A : : 5 : ; . 1094 STONE Crop (Sedum acre) : 2 ; 2 ; : : ; P 5 LOR SEDUM SPECTABILE . : : A : ; ; : ; ; o Os Compass PLANT (S7z/phium Veeiniarura) ‘ : : : : : ; . 196 GOLDEN-Rop (Solidago Canadensis) . : ; : : : j ; LOH New YorK IRON-WEED (Vernonia Noveboracensis) . : : : - 5 LG }y/ CHRISTMAS ROSE (elleborus niger) . , . . ; : : : . 1098 COBWEB HOUuSE-LEEK (Sempervivum arachnoideum) : ; : 5 2 298 vill ILLUS ERATIONS AUTUMN Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) SINGLE DAHLIAS : : GARDEN PINK (Dianthus CIS Sm SWEET-WILLIAM (Dianthus barbatus) FALL LARKSPUR (Delphinium elatun) SINGLE HOLLYHOCKS Coreopsis LANCEOLATA ‘ : : : ; : PRIVATE PLACE AT ORANGE, N. J., AS LAID OUT BY VAUX & Co. CANADA COLUMBINE (Aguilegia Canadensis) 5 2 : . ERIANTHUS RAVENN FESTUCA GLAUCA STIPA PENNATA HAREBELL (Campanula tenor e. LIvER LEAF (/efatica triloba) , JAPAN WIND-FLOWER (A zemone ponte loner ine soubor iN BLUE VIOLET WHITE VIOLET ; : PURPLE FOXGLOVE @imaspunsar ea) ORIENTAL Poppy (Papaver bracteatum) JAPAN IRIs (77s Kempfert) DIAGRAM OF DECORATIVE BED BED OF CANNAS, COLEUSES, AND oct STUDY FOR BEDDING OF FOLIAGE PLANTS AGAINST A Oia SworD LILY (Gladiolis) DIAGRAM OF BEDDING PLANTs . ; : : PLAN FOR ELLIPTICAL BEDs FOR MASSING COLORS . : 2 DOUBLE GERANIUM SINGLE GERANIUM . ; SALVIA SPLENDENS CANNA INDICA BANANA PLANT (JZusa ense as SOLANUM WARSCEWICZIOIDES ELEPHANT EAR (Caladium esculentum) NEW SINGLE TULIPS : GREEN-LEAVED BAMBOO (4r oe donax) PAMPAS GRASS (Gynertum argenteur) EULALIA ( Faponica zebrina) BORDER OF THE FOUNTAIN, UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK,—LOTUSES AND WATER-LILIES ARRANGEMENT OF LOTUSES AND igh Paps GROUP OF JAPANESE LOTUSES (Velmebiuim eeiavin) ARRANGEMENT OF WATER-LILIES AND PAPYRUS CENTRE OF THE FOUNTAIN, UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK BETHESDA FOUNTAIN BASIN, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK SMALL HOME Lawn. F : ‘ ; SUGGESTIONS FOR LAWN-PLANTING A STUDY FOR LAWN-PLANTING. 5 IG EAE SID Sel I ALODN ES: THE MALL, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK : : * THE ISLAND, NEAR BRIDGE, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK THE CAVE LANDING ON THE LAKE, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK NortTH MEADOW, CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK OVERHANGING ROCK NEAR IIOTH STREET AND SEVENTH AVENUE, CENTRAL ParRK, NEw YORK . A GORGE IN CENTRAL PARK A CHURCH LAWN A BuRIAL PLor * From a photograph taken by Mr. E. P. Fowler. <— NO een ON: INTRODUCTION. ters, I am fully aware that the subject of landscape gardening is receiving at my hands unsystematic and insufficient treatment. At the very outset, therefore, I wish to say that the principal feeling that has inspired the present undertaking has been a desire to arouse, by simple desultory talks, increased enthusiasm for lawn-making among men of moderate means. Most people have some land, or can in this country readily get it. As arule, however, they accomplish little towards the proper development of the landscape-garden- ing capabilities of such land as they have. The hired man generally advises them to a considerable degree, and then carries out the plans agreed upon, without much let or hindrance from the employer, or comprehension of the com- parative value of the completed work. xi Xl INTRODOETION. There is no doubt that nurserymen’s catalogues furnish much valuable advice concerning the best methods of growing certain plants, as well as extensive lists of their various species and varieties; but this cannot be considered an adequate or even an attractive way of treating the sub- ject of landscape gardening. The discussions of plants are sufficiently alluring, I will acknowledge, and the colored pictures and woodcuts are unquestionably effective in arresting the eye and securing interest of a certain kind. In a word, nurserymen’s catalogues are intended for one definite purpose namely, that of tempting the reader to purchase plants, and to that end they are admirably adapted. To the development of a sound taste for the practice of genuine landscape gardening these catalogues can of course contribute comparatively little. And yet the material, the trees and shrubs, they discuss, must always form an important and very essential part of any satisfac- tory treatise on landscape gardening. On the other hand, to write such works as those of Price, Gilpin, Repton, and Downing, while requiring ability and experience of a high order, does not satisfy what seems to me a particular need of the present time. Wealth and taste are being rapidly diffused among all classes. The book, therefore, that is needed for this purpose is, it seems to me, one that will stimulate interest in an inexpensive style of landscape gardening by enunciating a few prac- tical fundamental principles, and giving an account of some examples of well laid out grounds. - With this, should naturally be included a description of some of the best lawn-plants. UN TRODGUCTION. Xl My chief confidence in the value of such a work lies, I confess, chiefly in the superior effect the illustrations may have in inspiring interest in the subject, and leading the reader to pursue his investigations farther a-field. I have also myself lived among choice ornamental trees all my life, and had the opportunity of studying many examples of landscape gardening in numerous more or less professional visits to country-places in America. My position of Su- perintendent of Parks in New York for nearly ten years, moreover, gives some additional reasons for undertaking to make a few suggestions and notes by the way that may be helpful to others. The first chapter that I propose to undertake in the series of what should be termed talks, rather than serious discussions, will be on the subject of the actual lawn con- sidered by itself. Having duly considered the best methods of making a lawn, and arrived at the final convic- tion that lawn-making requires considerable practical knowledge and skill, we will be likely to meet the ques- tion, “ But how do you make your roads?” ‘To this I shall be obliged to reply: “That, although I have arrived at certain conclusions about road-making, [ do not deem the subject as clearly within the proper scope of landscape gardening.” Roadmaking is distinctly within the province of the engineer, and all over the civilized world the subject has been exhaustively treated by learned experts, who have set forth their views In prize essays and more extended treatises. But I must say this much, earnestly and from an experience that has been checkered by good and bad XIV INTROMGCLION results, that you had better give your roads only enough curve or crown to shed water properly. It will be also found in many places, even within the home grounds, that gutters by the side of the road are essential; and invari- ably well-assorted broken stones should underlie the drive- way for the purpose of drainage. With the additional oft- quoted remark on the maintenance of roads, that “a stitch in time saves nine,” I shall forego all further talk in these pages about the construction of paths and roads. The question of the curves or course of paths and roads, in relation to adjacent lands and buildings, is, how- ever, a legitimate query for the reader to make, and of that I shall have something definite to say. Roads and paths are, it must be confessed, necessary evils that add no land- scape beauty to the place, and must be simply tolerated because they are needed to get about the grounds. In de- vising the location and course of roads and paths, it becomes, therefore, our duty to seek to minimize their essential ugliness, and to contrive how to manage with as few of them as possible. Constructing lawns and laying out lines of paths and roads having been discussed, the plan of my chapters next induces me to ask the reader to imagine a rough, undulating country-place with, perhaps, a ravine or two on one side of it. As one looks at the natural arrangement of rocks on the hillside it should be readily apparent that the treat- ment of steep and sloping grounds needs consideration as well as that of the more level lawns. Trees, shrubs, flower gardens, and level lawns,—every one knows something of them. There are few, however, who have ever given seri- INTRODUCTION. XV ous thought to artificial sloping grounds and rockwork studied from natural models found in the hills about us. Some of us have without question studied such work in Cen- tral Park, New York City, and in Prospect Park, Brooklyn, L.I. There are, of course, a few other examples in the country of this genuine American landscape architecture, but to not many, I fancy, has it occurred to treat sloping grounds in any definite and specialized way. I used the term American landscape architecture advis- edly, for my words in these chapters are chiefly addressed to inhabitants of America, living in a region between North Carolina on the one side and Maine on the other, and bounded on the west by the Rocky Mountains. The prin- ciples and general theory of arranging grounds will doubt- less be much the same the world over, but the selection and treatment of plants must vary constantly. The plants that do well in this part of North America will not necessarily succeed in England and on the Continent, while in the same latitude in California the same trees will perhaps fail lamen- tably. Trees and shrubs therefore must be studied carefully with due regard to their environment, and in these chapters I have moreover undertaken to classify them in a somewhat general way in accordance with their suitability to the dif- ferent seasons. I contend that this grouping of trees and shrubs is not sufficiently looked after when lawns are planted. On Morningside Park, New York, for instance, a whole hillside is systematically planted, on account of their rich color in autumn, with white dogwood ( Cornus florida), An- dromeda arborea (or Oxydendrum arboreum ), liquidambar, Xvl INTRODCECHION scarlet maple, sumach, /thus Osbecki, etc. At another point many spring-blooming plants are massed, and throughout all the tree and shrub groupings come more or less spring, summer-, or fall-blooming kinds scattered about at frequent intervals. In regard to the employment of bright-colored trees and shrubs, such as Japanese maples, purple beeches, and golden oaks, it 1s important to say that self-restraint is advisable. Coloring of the brightest kind is valuable duly and properly related to the general mass of the foliage of trees and shrubs. The color scheme of tree and shrub plantation should be, as a rule, in tones of green. Subsidi- ary masses may, however, have yellowish or reddish tones, and even a main mass might be, in some cases, attractively designed with only purple beech or golden oak. It seems fitting to explain here what I consider the proper way to treat shrubs viewed in mass and viewed individually. I approach this question with some hesi- tation, because it 1s easy, in talking of such matters, to find one’s self landed in a tangle of unprecise phrases, such as mystery, blending, gardenesque, picturesque, etc., etc. There is doubtless a particular composition that should be devised for every landscape-gardening picture, and a broad comprehensive scheme of a high order of art may be thus unquestionably established. Foreground, middle-distance, and background need due consideration, and proper relations of this kind may be unquestionably established. Trees may be massed on the higher levels, and may straggle down hillsides, and may be grouped and em- phasized at certain points in a thoroughly artistic manner. The stretches of lawn and vistas of trees may extend, INRERODOCTION. XVII seemingly, to great distances on comparatively small places, and many charming effects and surprises in variation of sky-line and mystery of far-reaching background may un- doubtedly be contrived with success. Do not let me give the impression that I question the possibility of creating, as it were, all these delightful feat- ures of the lawn. Only, and here I will speak frankly and from considerable experience, do not undertake too much of this kind of thing yourself; you may fail. Trees will die when they have grown to considerable size at artistically critical points, or they will fail to grow to just the height and diameter required, and a weak realization of the desired effect will be attained. But to return to the question of treating trees and shrubs considered in mass and considered individually. The tendency of those who think of the trees in mass and in their mass relations, is to crowd them too much with their companions, to fail to comprehend their ap- pearance at maturity, and thus develop their proper effect imperfectly. Such a tendency is apt to “crib and confine” the trees, and to undertake to make them do duty after a fashion that is not altogether adapted to their nature; that is, if it is not altogether a case of round pegs for square holes, to force them just a little. On the other hand, the person who dwells specially on the development of the individual character of a plant is liable to err in another way, and to sacrifice the broad effects and harmoniously combined relations of trees to the exhibition of characteris- tic and highly perfected individual excellences. For most lawns a middle way of arrangement ma ) S Xvi IN TRODOCTION. be pursued with reasonable satisfaction which will secure good mass effects and a fair consideration for the character- istics of individual specimens. There will be the open centre of lawn grass and the border plantation of mixed trees and shrubs and herbaceous plants with a moderately diversitied sky-line. Outlying specimens of choice trees and shrubs will vary the outline of the masses here and there, and perhaps stand alone at a few points without shrubs. Excessive cribbing and confining will be prevented by planting the trees forty to fifty feet apart, and the shrubs eight to ten feet apart, with small ones two to four feet apart. A simple negative rule for the arrangement of trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants is to never plant them in a continuous straight line, but in groups with curving boundaries and placed on the specially prepared crests of swelling spots or portions of the lawn. Trees and shrubs thus placed are favorably exhibited and enabled to show their peculiar beauties better than on a flat surface. There are a few simple things pertaining to landscape gardening, such as irregular sky-lines and border lines of shrub and tree groups, open lawn centres, and boundary plantations, attention to which will be likely to secure a pleasing effect, even though one foregoes any attempt to realize the higher and more subtle features of the art. An- other way to simplify and, to my mind, greatly improve the arrangement of trees and shrubs is to group a lot of one kind of plants together, a hundred Spirwa opulifolia here, fifty Spirwa Thunbergii there, and so on. It is a large and specially effective method of treatment, and really easy of accomplishment. INTRODUCTION. XAX Where a junction of two paths or roads is made, this method of arrangement looks well, for a considerable plan- tation should be here so contrived as to cover all points of connection and give the impression of an unseen way through a large grove or group. The question of shade and shade trees is one that must never be ignored. No landscape art can afford to slight the practical necessity for shade. All along, and about twenty feet from the drives and walks, and not less than fifty feet from the house, shade trees, elms, maples, etc., should stand at distances of from fifty to seventy-five feet from each other. But beware of, in this way, encroaching on the open centre lawns. Noth- ing can be a worse practice in landscape gardening. I shall have occasion to speak of pruning’ hereafter specifically, but I desire to say in a general way here that self-restraint in pruning is a good habit to acquire. ‘To cut and chop trees and shrubs every year may be a more perni- cious practice than to leave them entirely alone. It is safe to say that what we want in a tree or shrub is to see its special and most characteristic beauty. If it naturally weeps or spreads, or is pyramidal, we want to see that special peculiarity naturally developed and not pruned into some monotonous semi-artificial shape. Rather if it be symmetrically inclined, lop off a branch here and there to emphasize its symmetrical habit ; if it be weeping, increase its weeping habit by cutting away shoots that may show an upright tendency. If it be an early-blooming shrub, do not cut off the already formed flower buds in winter simply because that season happens to be the natural season for pruning wood, whether bud-bearing or not. Let the spent x INTRODOCTION: flowering wood be removed as in the case of Horsythia, as soon as the plant has done blooming, thus relieving the interior of the plant from being clogged, and paving the way for increased abundance and beauty of flowers the following spring. Generally speaking, it might be said that trees and shrubs do not really require pruning at all, except the removal of dead and deformed portions of the growth. As regards the selection of trees and shrubs given in these chapters I have to say that, although it comprises a comparatively small list, it yet includes a number of the best kinds as well as such as in most cases can be readily obtained from leading tree and plant growers. I have endeavored to point out in every case the peculiar attrac- tions that render the plants suited to the lawn, and have avoided as much as practicable all technical botanical terms that might be puzzling to the reader. Every one should know these plants intimately, know them as friends that he ought to see every day on hislawn. And it is in the office of such house friends, as the Germans would say, that I have endeavored to consider them. My statements concerning the hardiness and time of blooming of plants must not be taken as absolutely precise. I can only offer the general conclusions of my individual experience. Nature performs strange freaks. A plant may bloom three weeks later next year than it did this, or two shrubs may have bloomed at the same time last year and this year one may flower a week earlier than the other. The same varying rule applies to the hardiness of plants. For years we will find a certain variety, say of rhododen- drons, hardy, and then will come a peculiar season, when a INTRODUCTION. Xx1 number of what we have previously considered tender kinds will survive, and the heretofore entirely hardy one will go. In judging and determining the value and _pe- euliarities of a variety in any given locality we must be governed by the conclusions of a very considerable experi- ence and then be prepared for occasional and startling surprises. In the discussion of foliage bedding and the use of hardy herbaceous perennials, I have endeavored to give a dis- tinctly formulated system based on the fundamental and general principles of landscape gardening ; and to simplify their treatment and make it as definite and precise as pos- sible. The illustration of the herbaceous bedding’ treat- ment is to be found in the chapter on “ Grandmother’s Gar- den.” I should like very much to recommend more highly the use of hardy herbaceous plants in rockwork, on edges of lawns, in the long grass, and especially in shady woods. They are very charming in such places, but it is not easy to manage them, and they will require much renewing. And that reminds me to say that the reason why many planta- tions of hardy herbaceous perennials grow beautifully less in flower and foliage year by year is that they need renew- ing. Once in three or four years many of the plants of herbaceous borders should be taken up, divided and set out again, and in spots where any of them have died, new ones planted. After discussing trees, shrubs, herbaceous perennial plants, and bedding plants, which constitute the material of landscape gardening, I have undertaken to set forth in a few sketches drawn from the resources of personal experi- XXII INTRODOCTHON, ence, the best way to use this material. There are doubt- less many other landscape-gardening problems to be solved and other kinds of grounds to be laid out than those indi- cated in these chapters, but I think, however, that a num- ber of the most constantly recurring ones have been fairly considered. Before concluding this introduction I desire to express my obligation for assistance in preparing these chapters to Mr. Calvert Vaux, Landscape Architect of the Department of Public Parks, New York, to Mr. George C. Woolson, Superintending Gardener of the Park Department, and to Mr. J. Frangois Huss, General Foreman of Construction Work in the Park Department. In the preparation of the illustrations I am greatly in- debted to Mr. Paul Dana, Commissioner of the Department of Public Parks, New York, for the loan and reproduction of seven excellent photographs, taken by himself, from the unsurpassed tree specimens growing on his father’s, Mr. Charles A. Dana’s, great country-place at Dosoris, L. L An excellent photograph of an island in the lake, Central Park, New York, is also reproduced with the permission of Dr. E. P. Fowler. CHAPTER I. THE LAWN. ys - E > een) e = es O the minds of most readers the lawn suggests simply grass. We say we will walk on the lawn, and the thought of soft, velvety, newly cut grass immediately arises. In an ordinary sense, the lawn includes trees, shrubs, flowers, rocks, ete., but in actual fact, I believe, the idea of mown grass is first and foremost in the mind when the word /awn is used. I am therefore going to limit my remarks to the more or less level grass spaces that are open and agreeable to those who care to wander over their close- cut surface. Among shrubs, rocks, and flowers, one should not, and would not be likely to care to wander. Here the grass would be naturally allowed to grow longer, and the inter- lacing branches and irregular grass surface would impede progress. The open close-cut grass space is, moreover, the lawn proper for all purposes of occupation. I to DALES PEIN During hot weather, when it 1s not actually raining, we confine ourselves to the foot-paths or carriage-roads of the place where gravel, stone, boards, or asphalt afford safe and convenient promenade almost immediately after a down- fall of rain. Later on, however, when the sun comes out and dries up the moisture, we may enjoy perhaps for days, in the American climate, the great open spaces of green- sward, which we propose to call the lawn. Here, in a sense, the family may be said, during certain seasons, to live for a large portion of the time. As soon as the dew 1s off, should there be any, some elder member of the family will be found wandering about, looking for flowers, or simply breathing the fresh morning air, Soon little children dash out, chasing butterflies or tumbling over each other in simple glee of existence, revelling in the feeling of the rich, soft, thick turf. Later, perhaps, comes a game of ball or tag among the older boys, which can only be played satis- factorily on the lawn. Finally, in the evening, at sunset, and later, the family may again lmger on the lawn to enjoy the soft turf and long shadows on the greensward. The pleasures of sight, and varied movement, it 1s ac- knowledged, are increased a hundred-fold by the studied comfort and adornment of the house itself in the special features of carpets, and walls, and chairs, and tables. Why should we not then seek to extend the sphere of our artistic endeavor to perfecting and ornamenting our lawns? It should, after all, be considered as much a part of the house domain as the verandah. Feeling the importance, therefore, of making the lawn a place for the family to occupy, as though it were a part of the EE A aN. 3 actual house, I am going to try to tell the reader just how to go to work to make his lawn so that it can be actually used as well as looked at. In this country especially, we see a great many poor lawns and very few good ones, and a poor lawn should be considered as inexcusable a home-feature as a ragged or soiled carpet. We often fail to make good roads and walks, and tree and shrub plantations, but we more often fail to make good lawns. The reason for this may be found in the fact that when we make a road or walk of gravel, or asphalt, or other arti- ficial material, we generally have a clear idea of the result we shall attain; when we plant trees we can foresee, with some degree of certainty, what their future comparatively uzhampered growth will be, but, least of all, does this apply to lawns, as lawns are usually made in this country to-day. I do not propose in my present remarks to allow myself to be drawn, however, into the fascinating discussion, intro- duced by Mr. James B. Olcott, of the Connecticut Agricul- tural Experiment Station, concerning the use of selected pieces of pure grass sod for making lawns. Experiments in this direction may, and doubtless will, finally enable us to make lawns possessing a beauty and durability under the stress of daily occupation, of which we have little concep- tion at present. But I will say now and here, that sad experience has proved long ago that want of pure grass seed, and the right variety of grass seed, is one of the chief causes of the failure and uncertainty of lawns. Seedsmen cannot furnish pure grass seed, because no one grows pure grass seed, and cer- tainly not the best sorts of seed for making good greensward. + TAP LAVA. But in order to make the best greensward that we can reasonably expect to obtain, in view of the practice of the present day, let us take an ordinary piece of ground in the rough, covered with stones, wild turf, and weeds. It must not be an extreme case of sand or clay. Special ways of treatment would have to be devised for these, and we might imagine fifty cases, each of which would require a different mode of treatment. We had better, therefore, confine our- selves to an average or ordinary example of the way to make a lawn. This supposition would include a moderately heavy loam, some stone, and many weeds. The first thing to be considered in such cases is the drainage; [ mean the drainage of the lawn, and not of the roads. People are apt to stop when they have drained their roads and walks, and forget that the lawn requires such a thing as drainage. I am not, however, going to linger much on this ques- tion, supremely important though it be to many lawns. The fact is, our average lawn does not need any drainage, except where in some limited spot water is apt to he a part of the year. In such cases, drains of horse-shoe, or four- inch round tile, should be laid to some main drain, or open gutter along a road or street. No doubt there are cases of only moderately heavy loam, where the moisture sticks and lingers, in an undue degree, and here under-drainage is needed. Under-drainage on ordinary lawns will be only re- quired in limited areas, that is in valleys or hollows made by the lay of the land. This question of under-drainage once settled and rele- gated to the realm of scientific treatises, to which this book LITER ICANN. 5 does not purport to belong, we should also point out that it is necessary to so grade the lawn as to properly distribute the surface water. What, then, is the first thing to be done to our lawn in the rough after the problems of under-drainage and surface distribution of water have been disposed of? Why, sim- ply to cart off the stones and cut down the weeds with a scythe. The ground thus roughly cleaned, the next thing is to plow it up or spade it at least a foot deep. If the subsoil is not actually sandy, it will be well to go farther down. Deep culture is of great value to a lawn. It en- sures better resistance to droughts and a more even and luxuriant growth of grass. I am coming now to a point that is of the utmost im- portance to the development of a good lawn, and that is the removal of all weeds, stones, and roots from the soil to a foot or more in depth. On the proper removal and burn- ing of these weeds and roots the ultimate success of the lawn largely depends. Once plowing, raking, forking, and burning may not suffice; twice may not, and even three times may not, but no matter how many may be needed, they must be given. Deep and thorough culture is a neces- sity to a lawn, absolute and fundamental. There is no cause, perhaps, more prolific of bad lawns than poor culture. I care not what tools you use, plow or spade (ordinarily the plow should suftice), tilth and cleanness of soil you must have. By cleanness, of course, I mean, at the best, approxi- mate cleanness, for millions of embryo seeds must lurk in most soils, clean them as often as you will. But if you will clean them again and again, by plowing and raking, 6 TATE EAN you will find that the young grass will get a better chance to oceupy the ground with their root feeders before the roots of the weeds enter in and take possession. Having accomplished the plowing and cleaning, the next thing is to do the grading. Now the grading is a nice operation, which requires not only a good knowledge of landscape gardening but an intuitive, artistic conception of the best effect that can be produced under existing cir- cumstances. It 1s not easy to convey any broad and gener- ally reliable suggestions on this subject, so much depends on individual surroundings and peculiarities of position. However, I will endeavor to convey some idea of what I mean. In the first place, the reader may, for instance, fancy hunself at his front door-step as the most important point from which he should view his lawn. From this point he must look on the view as a picture with an open centre and boundary enclosure, the lawn being, for convenience of illustration, the open centre, and the trees, shrubs, and flowers the boundary enclosure. I insist upon this illustra- tion because [I want it understood that the lawn is to be open; there may be allowed a few outlying trees and shrubs and flowers, but the lawn is to be practically open, closely cut greensward, suitable for people to walk about on and children to play on without obstruction. If this end is not accomphshed, I consider the lawn a failure. Looking from the front door-steps, we must first con- sider our lawn as a comparatively flat surface—in a word, as level. Of course nature does nothing stiffly or on abrupt or rigid lines. Her work is one of infinite eradations or aide AYN, rf shadings. What appears to us as level at a little distance, when we approach it may prove to be a gentle swell. As we walk over a natural vale, or lawn—if I may be allowed the term,—we find a continual change in the grade of the surface. If we should attempt to make level an artificial lawn we could not doit. We would only succeed in making stiff limes and awkward transitions of grade. At the outset, therefore, long, swelling, easy lines of grade should be sought. For the better effect of the boundary enclosure of trees and shrubs and flowers, the lawn should be made hollowing, and for the better enjoyment of those walking over its surface, this hollowing should be easy and closely approaching the level. It is evident that this theory of grading will apply equally well to ground slopmg down or up from the front of the house, only the general slope should be not too steep or the pleasure of walking on it will be diminished. I shall speak of this further when I consider the treatment of sloping grounds that cannot be properly termed lawns. I desire to say that so important do I consider it that all lawns should be in part at least more or less level that I would be willing in grading to remove a large amount of earth entirely, or mound it up at the front along the road or at the sides, in order to secure this level lawn effect. The sense of the repose, comfort, and beauty associated with the idea of a lawn disappears when it grows steep. Let me say, however, that I do not wish to indicate that the lawn should be made only in front of the house. It may be even better arranged at the back of the house. Al considerable lawns are improved by isolating from them the 8 LAE LAIN. carriage drives and even the foot-paths. The most agreea- ble way of arranging a house and grounds, if convenience will permit it, is to have the drives and walks come in from the highway, merely turning about a small grass plot. With the hall and kitchen and other business parts of the house on this side, it is desirable then to have the library and living rooms open out on the main lawn, and if possible the finest view. You have thus the best part of the home grounds to yourself undisturbed by carriages or undesirable foot passengers. Seclusion and the shutting in of the lawn as part of the actual home has always a pecuhar charm of its own. I would not, as a rule, emulate the strict exclusiveness of our English brethren who, in so many cases, shut themselves in with great stone walls, but I would fence myself round about in some way. I would surround the home lawns with masses of trees and shrubs, and so dispose the main lawn in connection with the house as to make it my own special and peculiar domain. Having plowed, cleaned, and roughly graded the lawn into a comparatively level, gently swelling surface, the next thing is to cover it over with a heavy coat of rich manure, twenty-five, thirty, forty, fifty loads to the acre. Spread. it on liberally, all you can get under, provided it is well decomposed. Use thoroughly decayed composted stable manure if you can get it; if not, bone-dust, wood-ashes, superphosphate of lime, nitrate of ammonia, ete. What is required in the manure is plenty of ammonia, then phosphoric acid, lime, soda, potash, and magnesia, ete., but when you use these salts of soda, potash, ete., as con- Pd LAIN. 9 centrated fertilizers, you may happen not to apply them in proper quantities. Bone-dust acts slowly on grass lands, though well, and so does wood-ashes with its phosphates and potash salts, but stable manure, with the one drawback of sometimes bringing in foul weeds, seems to act more quickly and at the same time as permanently as any other fertilizer. People try everything else, but come back to the properly composted heap of barnyard manure, with the feel- ing that therein lies their true source of strength for creating permanently rich grass lands. There is doubtless a large percentage of a load of stable manure that is of little use to the land, but the application of fifty loads of manure to an acre seems to present the nutriment in a form and combina- tion that will do the land the most good. There is not much scientific theory in these suggestions about manuring lawns, I know, but you will find it is plain common-sense. Experiment with artificial manures all you can, but let it be at first on a small scale, and it will repay your trouble by the information gained as to what your special soil actually needs. Do the bulk of your fertilizing with barnyard manure and your average results will be satisfactory ; then if your other experiments develop some peculiar need of your soil, you can give up the barnyard manure, and use for a while some concentrated special fertilizer. Now that your land is graded, and the surface covered with fertilizing material, the next thing is to dig or plow lightly the entire surface of the ground and then harrow and hand-rake it thoroughly, and remove again entirely all stones, roots, and foul weeds that come to the surface. It is wonderful how these stones, roots, and weeds, crop out with 10 THE LAVA repeated plowing, harrowing, and raking. The supply seems in many soils unlimited. As I have said, however, already, thoroughness in such work is of vital importance to the success of the lawn. The raking is of importance, more- over, to secure fine pulverizing of the top soil intended to receive the grass seed. But the question that now arises is, what kind of grass seed shall be used? The seedsman will give you a mixture of lawn grass seed, and if the business firm be reputable, it will doubtless produce fair results. Let us, however, look a little closer into the matter. I have said that very little conception generally exists of the actual appearance of any lawn that isin process of construction, that is, that has been recently sown. And in considering this question of the best kind of grass seed, we begin to realize the truth of this assertion. In the first place, grass seed of any kind can be seldom secured reasonably pure. Any seedsman, if he be candid, will tell you that. He will, doubtless, say in addition, what is true, that grass seed is a great deal cleaner now than it was a few years ago. Better methods of cleaning grass seed have been devised, and more pains are taken to secure this desirable result. But the question still remains, what kind of grass seed shall we use? There are, as all persons at all acquainted with grasses know, hundreds of varieties, many, very many that are not named in the catalogues of seedsmen. Of these, one perhaps is best suited to this particular soil, and on the next field another is required. This one does well here, that kind dies out there. What are we to TEE LAVCON. 11 do? Itis verily a puzzle. And then after all, we cannot hope to get really pure seed of the kind we select at last. We sow it, and with it will spring up some unknown grass or weed that will destroy entirely the effect we have expected. Grass sods of some pure, rich-looking, and permanent variety might be used with success, but where are they to be obtained in quantities 7? To make a lawn with grass sod would be more expensive than with grass seed, but. if selected grass sod could be obtained, it would doubtless produce far better, more enduring and attractive results, In view, however, of the entire lack at present of nurseries or plots of the right kind of sod, we are obliged to fall back on the ordinary grass seeds that can be purchased of repu- table seedsmen at the present time. In the first place, when you go to the seedsman do not buy a lawn grass mixture. Do the mixing yourself if there is to be any. It will be cheaper and better. Secondly and lastly, limit yourself to two or three kinds that are likely to grow well in the particular kind of soil you expect to sow. There is a prevailing desire to sow white clover on the lawn. Now I contend that white clover is out of place on the lawn. To me a greensward of red top or Kentucky blue grass is always more attractive than one mottled with white clover. Then as to the mixture of grasses, there is, to my mind, a great deal of current error. Why not select a strong, Vig- orous variety that grows tolerably thick-set, and sow that only. If you sow twenty other kinds, they will all proba- bly be run out in a few years by this and some other strong- 12 DATES SEAN TE growing variety that may come in by accident. The important thing is to secure a variety that will sprmg up vigorously and take possession of the soil before other less attractive grasses and weeds occupy the ground. In order to accomplish this, we may be even obliged to select a somewhat coarse variety. On the lawns of Central Park, for instance, a great deal of Kentucky blue grass has been used, not because it is, by any means, the most attrac- tive of grasses, but because it 1s vigorous and holds its own even on sandy ground, and makes a fairly good-looking sod. This kind and herds’ grass = 2 or red top, form the staple of most lawn-grass mixtures used in the United States. Rhode Island bent grass is highly valued by many, and makes an excellent sod, particularly in a moist chmate. Red top in a sandy soil is apt to die off in droughts occurring just after germination. Its first growth is not, in such cases, quite vigorous enough, although the quality of the sod it produces is much finer than that of Kentucky blue grass. Another objection to red top seed is its general impurity as found in the market. Having secured our seed, such as it is, the next question is,In what quantities and how shall we sow it?) Again comes in the question of the quality of soil, its comparative moist- ure, and its cleanness. Under the most favorable circum- stances a large proportion of the seed sown will fail to germinate. It is therefore wise to sow grass seed liberally. The price of grass seed is comparatively low. I have con- sequently not hesitated to use, in some cases. six bushels of Kentucky blue grass or red top to the acre, although seedsmen only advise two or three. The art of sowing LTTE, LVN, 13 grass seed properly requires some experience to acquire. The great difficulty is to sow it evenly. Like mowing and other farming operations, it takes trouble to learn how to sow grass seed properly. You must get up early in the morning before the wind has risen. You must consider the direction from which the wind blows and do a good many things that can hardly be set down intelligently on paper. When the seed is sown the next thing is to rake with a fine-toothed iron rake the entire lawn over thoroughly. Some people content themselves with a harrow for such work, but it does imperfect work at best. After the raking a heavy iron roller should be used at once over every part where the seed is sown. This sets the seed in the ground firmly and helps wonderfully to secure an even mat of grass, especially if a drought sets in soon after the sowing. It is a good plan also to continue this rolling once or twice after the grass has started and before it is fit to mow. The first cutting with the mowing machine should come as soon as the grass is high enough for the knives of the machine to fairly take hold. Frequent mowing during the early development of the lawn tends to thicken and strengthen the growth of lawn grass and thus keep down objectionable wild grasses and weeds. Having reached this point, however, in the construction of a lawn, most people are liable to consider that nothing more than an occasional mowing is needed. And just here a great mistake is made, and the establishment of a reason- ably perfect lawn retarded, or, in most cases, absolutely prevented. Perhaps I may startle some one when I state that to keep up a good lawn, in many places, requires as 14 LLP OAEALLVANG much careful and continual culture, with our present quality of seed, as to keep a flower-bed in order; but itis a fact. And why should we not consider the well-being of each spear of grass as important as that of each coleus or geranium in the flower-bed. The spear of grass is actually the most important factor in the enjoyment of the home grounds. Viewing the matter in this hight, we should not hesitate to weed the lawn all summer if necessary, to water it daily in dry weather, and yearly renew bare spots with better soil, to cover it with seed again, and fertilize the entire surface with frequent applications of manure, and in addi- tion to roll it from time to time when the ground is soft. In the course of years, however, the good results of such work must tell, and the necessity for it become much diminished ; but vigilance and intelligent culture will be always and con- tinually required under the most favorable circumstances. a Ty A ——S—S——_ GHAPTER I, THE TREATMENT~ OF SLOPING GROUNDS. AM convinced that the reader will find this subject a novel one. The principles governing it are not, so far as I am aware, laid down in the books, and yet some of the most charming effects of our best park lawns come from an accidental or intentional arrangement of the kind I am about to describe. There are certain primary conditions or divisions that make up all parks or home-grounds. Walks, drives, green- sward or lawns, plantations, whether trees, shrubs, or flowers, and the intermediate spaces that may be called “ sloping grounds,” make up characteristic landscape-garden- ing effects. These sloping grounds may come down to the drives or walks or they may slope upward, in steps as it were, to higher lawns or plateaus. They may be made of turf, rocks, vines or trees, shrubs or perennial plants, of each alone, or of all, or of only part mingled together. The lawn itself we have decided to consider for the purpose of 15 146 TREATMENT: OF SLOPING CROGMES comfortable and pleasant occupation as level or slightly hollowing. The accompanying illustration will convey some idea of what I mean by a slightly hollowing lawn. This surface is to my mind quite as irregular as one would desire for pleasant walking, and anything more irregular I should call sloping grounds, and not properly a lawn. We may find g attractive sloping grounds all ready-made for us by nature or we may be obliged to humbly follow her lead and treat more or less artificially our sloping grounds after the fashion practised by the natural forces about us. The hardest part of such work is to keep from exag- gerating nature or repeating over and over again some one of her ways of doing things. It should be always remem- bered, in landscape gardening, that nature never repeats herself. A torrent of rain rushes down a hillside and ploughs furrows or heaps piles of stones in its path and partially covers them with earth from above, but it never ploughs the same kind of furrow twice or heaps up the earth and stones again in the same way. There will be, indeed a cer- tain similarity in the trend of the furrows and the course of the rolling stones. This may be largely established by the character and pitch of the slope, or it may come from the general direction of the storms. Keeping this in mind, we will proceed to consider the best way to treat sloping grounds of obvious steepness. There are two kinds of steep sloping ground in connection with lawns which require special modes of handling. One we nay describe as artificially irregular, and the other as only in part artificially irregular. A portion of it may be TIVA 3HL 30 GNA HLYON SHL UVaN ‘MHOA MAN ‘MuVd TVYLNSO NI NAV Lr 18 TREATMENT OF SLOPING GROONDS. already found in place, and to attain the desired effect it may be simply necessary to supplement it with work of a similar character. The wholly artificial slopmg ground will be required where it is necessary to support a steep bank connected with a terrace or upper lawn plateau. It may be also required in the immediate vicinity of a house, or, as In the illustration, along a skirting boundary wall. ? The second kind consists in great part of a mass of natural rock, which, cropping out of a hillside, separates a lower from a higher lawn, or borders a path or roadway, or body of water, or a plantation and lawn. In order to explain more satisfactorily the proper method of treating sloping grounds, I have employed three illustrations of the work of actually constructing such feat- ures. In the first illustration, a rough ungraded bank in Central Park is shown; then another, where the workmen AW 9 = | \ o Ye cetyil SE Boe ASW. wl) we) hua’ Wh y Wiha Sa = ne =e Sa di eee ~ = Sod és If ies airs i. = le Zones * BN) Ms A! a : Ae : ‘ ft FY, ? ved uN ROUGH UNGRADED BANK. have finished grading a piece of ground and a steep bank at one end. It will be noticed that the bank is very steep and needs to be kept up to its abrupt angle. If such a place were ier MENT OP SLOPING “GROUNDS... V9 subjected to the action of the elements for years, with the soil as full of boulders as it is in the immediate neighbor- hood, you would find that, in time, a state of things would be established like the one seen in the illustration below. Z f g e —Yif indeed one of the best of all honeysuckles, is Halleana from Japan. This variety is ever- green to a very consid- FO ae Eee a erable degree, which much increases its value. Then in June there are lovely clematises, that love to climb over stumps or on a screen or VONE BPR CTS ON THE LAWN. is trellis of wood. The prevailing colors of the June-blooming types are purple and white, and these colors are of the purest, richest tint. Open-petalled, large, sometimes ten inches in diameter, star-shaped, these flowers gather in close masses among small, inconspicuous leaves. The best per- haps is Jackmanit, for free blooming and general hardi- ness, but there are excellent varieties among the lighter- colored lanuginosa and patens type. All these June clematises should be pruned after they have finished flower- ing, so as to secure a vigorous growth and bloom for the following year. The curious and rare Japan climbing hydrangea also is a June-flowering vine. It has dark-green, long-stalked, cordate leaves, sharply toothed, and white hydrangea-like flowers in loose clusters. Like ivy, it throws out multi- tudes of rootlets, and clings well to stonework. During some seasons the Wis- taria is a June- flowering vine, but whether it blooms in May or June, its grape-like clusters of purple flowers, piled among picturesque and tossing masses of light-green leaves and tendrils, are always : , © ye beautiful. There is a beautiful by see See ON (Tri white variety that is particularly (, ye effective. The two colors may be finely contrasted by A ra : ae e.s : . (OD setting out the two kinds near each other and letting IX 78 FUNEWEFPE CTS (ON THERE AY: their growths mingle. The illustration on the opposite page shows an arbor in Central Park covered with Wistaria that always exhibits the flowers with excellent effect. Nor should we pass unnoticed on this occasion the sum- mer charms of the two best climbing roses, Baltimore Belle and Queen of the Praines. There are other excellent varieties of climbing roses, but they do not surpass, and hardly supplement, the excellent qualities of these two well- known kinds. Pages might be profitably devoted to the consideration of the June-flowering qualities of hardy roses generally, of the Gen. Jacqueminots, Baronne Prevosts, Mad. Plantiers, and a thousand others, but in the brief way in which we are studying June lawns, we can afford to simply touch on the employment of roses as a class. To their magnificent tints and forms no pen can do adequate justice, and their excellence has moreover become a household word. We may profitably, however, devote a few lines to some brief suggestions for the development of the most abundant and best rose blooms, and for the dispesition of rose bushes on the lawn. In the first place, to get the best roses, the soil where the plant is grown should be a rich sandy loam and not clay, and then the old growth of last year should always be cut back almost to the ground, or, if the plant Jis already old, almost to the main stem. Rose bugs and blight are apt to make rose bushes, unless carefully tended, somewhat unsightly objects on the lawn in spite of their grand flowers. Of course this need not be so, but we should recognize the danger squarely, and if we cannot be sure of “MYOA MAN ‘HYVd AVYLNAO ‘YOSYV VINVLSIA 6L BES 80 FUNE EFFECTS ON THE LAV: giving our roses the right amount and kind of attention, at least we should plant them in retired nooks in the shelter: ing skirts of other plantations. The /tosa rugosa from Japan, however, is an exception to this rule, as its leaves are entirely healthy and hardy in all exposures. The leaves are dark-green, crinkled, and attrac- tive, the flowers single, which is for me an advantage, and the fruit large and showy. It is, in a word, one of the most ornamental shrubs for the lawn. Up to this pomt we have been considering hardy deciduous plants, properly so-called, and perhaps as regards their forming any distinctive feature of June we would be hardly justified in mentioning evergreens at all, if it were not for the exquisite young growth of some particular varieties. Let us then note a few leading varieties of evergreens that exhibit this peculiarity. All hemlocks are lovely in their soft, young growth, and delicate tendrils of June, but there is a variegated form that is touched all over at this season with lighter shades on the young growth in a very attractive manner. This variegation differs in perfection a good deal from year to year. The young growth of most spruces is also fine, and specially noteworthy on the dwarfer forms, such as Gregory’s dwarf ( Picea excelsa Gregoriana ). An extremely dwarf American black spruce has likewise pleasing tints on its young growth, but its form is so strik- ing, that this beauty of the young growth is overlooked in contemplating the compact masses of this most eccentric of evergreens. There is a variety of the American white spruce (Picea alba) called Glory of the Spruces, which has a warm golden tint in the midst of its young green. — FONE BrP E CTS ON THE LA YN. 81 Perhaps, however, the most extraordinary spruce in June is the tiger-tail spruce (Picea polita) from Japan. g i L ] And its name seems not inaptly given as we note the \ i I) Os» \\ Qa yA \ ih a " YH YY JAPAN RAMANAS ROSE. (ROSA RUGOSA RUBRA.) enlarged bright golden tips of the branches bursting torth from the enveloping leaf-bud. The general appearance of this evergreen is sturdy, stiff, and intensely individual as 6 82 ¥UNE EFFECTS ON THE LAWN. well as dwarf and enduring. In color it is generally light greenish-yellow, but the color becomes deepened at the tips, and is changed still more by contrast with the reddish- brown envelopes or scales of the leaf-buds dropping off now from one branch and now from another at this season. In June we do not look among the arbor vitzes, whether Asiatic or American, nor among the so-called cypresses of Japan ( Leetinosporas ) for any loveliness of tint peculiar to that season. The junipers, silver firs, and several of the pines on the other hand are peculiarly and supremely beau- tiful at this season. To begin with, few evergreens can show more beauty than is found on the young growth of our common Canadian juniper (-/wniperus Canadensis ). Its low, solid masses are thoroughly penetrated by light soft shades, and where the plant chances to stand among a lot of distinct evergreens the effect is still more striking, Of a similar light tint is Juniperus oblonga pendula, the true weeping juniper, and a native of Armenia. It is not altogether hardy. Then what can be finer than the lovely light green shades of the Irish and Swedish junipers. Such picturesque forms and lovely colors would be imvaluable for lawn planting if they were only possessed of hardiness and adaptability to light dry soil. The bluest of evergreens, Juniperus Virginiana glauca and Juniperus venusta, have also specially lovely June tints. Not many of the pines are particularly remarkable in June. Perhaps Pinus excelsa, the Bhotan pine, is most noteworthy at that season, although the dwarf Scotch is decidedly attractive in its early coat of fresh green. Pinus VONE ZTPECTS ON THE LAWN. 83 monspeliensis is also fine in June. as well as Wugho and the dwarf white pine. But the finest of all evergreens, I am tempted to say, certainly the finest of all evergreens in June, are some of the silver firs. Nearly all of them are remarkable, but chief among them stand Nordmann’s fir, the Grecian ( Abies Cilictca), and the noble silver fir (A. nobilis ). Nordmann’s is at all seasons unsurpassed for grandeur, and now the light, fresh young fohage checkers the tree all over in the most delightful manner imaginable. The Grecian silver fir starts earlier, and is most remark- able of all for an early coating of the lovely young growth pecuhar to the silver firs. Abies Pichta, the Siberian silver fir has also voluminous young growth, and it is remarkable among all evergreens for a soft, silky texture which is delightful to the touch. Many think Adves nobilis the finest of evergreens, and for exquisite richness of blue coloring and picturesque masses it deere Reece, is, indeed, almost un- eae rivalled. Otherwise it lacks the grandeur of outline and great hardiness of the Nordmann’s silver fir. It is not unimportant to note here that Adbdes nobilis displays much 84 SUNE EFFECTS ON THETA variety of coloring and conformation on individual speci- mens, hence it follows that careful selection of the best varieties and their strict perpetuation by grafting become important to the lawn planter. The Cephalonian fir, Ades Cephalonica, is another at- tractive evergreen in June, although now and then it suffers from hard winters. Alies Parsoniana or lasiocarpa is one of the rarest and finest species of the genus, and its long, curled, light- colored leaves assume the richest hues in early summer. Abies concolor is another excellent and similar ever- green. It is an important fact to remember that systematic pruning of both the leader or topmost twig and of the side branches of these silver firs tends greatly to develop the beautiful June growth on every part of the tree. It is not well, however, to continue this pinching too long or too frequently, for the tree may thus come to lose the essential characteristic form of the species or variety. Very attractive also are the early tints of the dark and extremely attractive dwarf Hudson’s Bay fir, as well as those of the neat and elegant Abies pectinata compacta. These last-named forms may be classed among the hardiest of evergreens. ‘Turning to several evergreens which are almost unknown on the lawn and that are at the same time attractive in June, we find the hardy form of Adzes Douglasi or pseudotsuga Douglas. ‘The particular variety of the Douglas spruce generally employed has been found some- what tender in the Eastern or Atlantic States, apparently because most specimens have been brought from the lower PUNE EBrrECTS-ON THE LAWN. 85 portions of the coast ranges of California. The Colorado form, however, proves perfectly hardy and is not only at- tractive to the eye in June, but is deliciously resinous in odor. There is a pseudotsuga Sieboldii, from Japan, which is also beautiful in June. The blue spruce of the Rocky Mountains (Picea pungens) is perhaps the richest and bluest of evergreens at this season, and has also the high merit of being hardy and vigorous. But after extolling the beauties of all these evergreens in June, we must turn for the finest evergreen effect in summer to the golden yew. Later its colors are more or less dulled, in comparison, and sometimes it is even browned in winter, though scarcely ever actually killed, but now, in June, its deep, rich gold is fairly luminous in its glow of young life. The golden yew bears patiently any amount of pruning, and may be and is continually distorted by pruning into the most artificial forms. There is a silver- tinted variety of the same English yew ( Zaxus baccata) of which the golden is also a variety, but it is hardly as distinct and striking. It is called 7! 0. elegantissima ; why, I cannot say, unless silver may be termed more elegant than gold. It is difficult to do justice to either of these last-named evergreens as they appear in late May or early June. The variety and freshness of tint as contrasted in broadly pervading masses with the darker shades of the mature growth really defy description, while they make decidedly one of the most charming features of the lawn in early summer. The Irish yew is not always hardy, but it is striking and distinct. In looking over this brief review of the most prominent: 86 JUNE EFFECTS ON THELTAVE and characteristic beauties of the lawn in June, I am impressed with the insufficient justice done their loveliness, but I am also consoled at my evident failure by the con- sciousness that no ordinary pen will suffice to convey an adequate idea of their subtle charm. For instance, of the fresh, early summer growths of many trees we can say little more than they are dark green; but how poorly such terms express their delicate gradations of color, soft, glistening, and wonderful. Look at that weep- ing beech! What words can describe the soft, tender, gleaming color of its young foliage. And so it is with a hundred other trees, the charms of which at this season meet us at every turn on many lawns. With the knowledge of such lawn-planting riches easily attainable by almost every one, is it strange that some countries deem no time and labor too great to secure that utmost vigor of early growth which can alone produce the highest perfection of June flowers and foliage? Is it not more strange that we in America, with our favorable soil and climate and enterprise and regard for all lovely things, .do not seek more to employ the lawn-planting beauties at our command? Perhaps we have been hitherto occupied too much with the engrossing duties of a young nation to look to the permanent adornment of home. Our increased intercourse with Europe however has been teaching us much of late, and we are learning not only that we should do more artistic lawn planting, but that we cannot conform ourselves servilely to European horticul- tural standards. After much failure in trying to get some- thing else, we are attaining to the conviction that we must GONE EPFECTS ON THE LAWN. 87 have genuine American lawns adorned with only such plants as suit the special conditions of the country and locality. We are learning that because an English or Scotch gardener tells us we should have a particular tree which he has grown successfully in England, we are not necessarily to assume that horticultural skill, whether Scotch, or Eng- lish, or French, must be able to compass, in some occult way, its successful employment on American lawns. Just as we are developing with active enthusiasm home art in our interior, so We are gaining an increasing realiza- tion of the importance of studying personally the needs and capacities of our lawns. During the next few years we may be sure that lawn planting as an art is likely to develop into a most important feature of the home-life of the humblest citizen who owns a spot of ground. Therefore to those who would keep abreast of the time in such matters, | would say, give every possible chance to the June effects of trees and shrubs on the lawn. ‘These occur on the white days of the year, and all intelligent care in the selection and culture of such plants will be now more than ever repaid in the pleasure thus afforded both our friends and ourselves. "al Ba = e) SSeS © Tae Ger es CHAPTERW, THE FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SUMMEK: qe ZUNE is hardly summer. It is the : threshold, as it were, over which are wafted the odors of spring. All spring’s freshness and richness of bounding vitality characterize many June days, and it is not until we are really launched into the full glow of July that we realize what we may fairly consider the genuine climate of summer. We have doubtless many veritable summer days in June, and so we have in May, for that matter, but even in June there are decided suggestions of spring still lingering in the air. It becomes therefore very important to the lawn-planter to be able to prolong as much as possible the loveliness of May and June. In America, especially, he has an addi- tional incentive in the fact that July and August are spent largely in the open air by a people who, as a rule, do not spend as much time out-of-doors as most other nations. 88 FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SUMMER, 89 A reason for this is not far to find in our changeable climate, but should we not, in a large degree, attribute this neglect of open-air enjoyments to a lack of genuine appre- ciation of the sweet influences of nature? We are apt to talk much of the beauties of nature after taking homceo- pathic doses of Ruskin and visiting the White Mountains. As a nation, however, I fear, we are not lovers of the open air, except for purposes of business or of pleasure that hardly involve much direct relation with nature. Since, however, we are forced to dwell more or less in the open air in July and August, constrained by fashion and the heat of the weather, it is all the more reason- able to make the exterior of the house attractive, and to take the opportunity of making this fashion a means of gradually developing a more widespread love of nature. Of the three main features of the lawn—flowers, foliage, and grass,—the first, though important, are least so, simply because we can have so few flowers in midsummer, Fohage is, with its shade-giving quality, perhaps the most important, although for those who have realized to what excellence lawn grass can be developed, turf becomes scarcely less valuable. Maintenance of lawns is not well understood in this country, as a rule, and although it must be acknowledged that the stress of our summer suns is at times terrible, I be- lieve wonders could be accomplished, indeed I may say are accomplished in isolated cases, by skill and untiring labor. When we learn to give as solicitous attention to perfecting our green sward as we expend on the coats of our high- priced horses, we shall begin to realize what kind of a 90 FLOWERS AND FOLTAGE OF SOMME lawn may be made in America in spite of difficulties of climate. If then shade is most important to make the lawn attractive and lovely in summer, it naturally behooves us to study our summer shade trees. As we undertake this task we find with regret that we must give up the enjoy- ment of some of our grandest shade trees as having already reached and passed their prime. Horse-chestnuts that formed one of the chief beauties of the foliage of late spring and early summer have probably fallen into the “sere leaf” and become dull and rusty in many places by the end of July. Elms are majestic at all seasons, but their leaves often fade by midsummer. Lindens, except the sulphurea and dasystyla, and possibly the silver-leaved, are now fading also. Ashes are fresh, and several willows and poplars, but many trees have assumed a mature and even languid appearance, that suggests at once the permanent presence of a more sober stage of existence and a feeling that the tree is resting. There is scarcely yet much positive decay. Light and life have for them settled down to a consciousness of com- pleted development which, if, on the whole, a satisfactory state of things for the present, suggests quite distinctly the approaching end. The best shade tree at this season, if not at all seasons of the year, is the beech. This fact was recognized by the ancients, and is still apparent to most tree lovers of the present day. It is true, the beech grows slowly, but did ever any enduring, really fine tree grow otherwise than slowly. The elm and other grand trees may be un- WLOWEES AND FOLIAGE OF SUMMER. 91 doubtedly instanced as capable of the most rapid growth, but they are, it will be found, not positively fine in detail like the beeches. The broad shining glossiness of the beech leaf sheds a lustrous light and shade of the most grateful character. There is plenty of shadow, but no disagreeable closeness and weight of shade. The pleasant features of this shade pertain to all beeches of whatever species or variety. Their outline and coloring is alike fine in August as throughout the season, and if the purple beech shows a greener tinge on its foliage at midsummer, it still retains its early charm of elegant contour, delightful lustre, and simple grace of leafage. So well known are the pleasant summer qualities of the purple and weeping beeches, and, for that matter, of the simple, original type of both the American and European species, that the very sound of their names brings back one of the most agreeable and permanent pleasures of deep midsummer—that of lying beneath their boughs secubans sub tegmine fagi. For this purpose, the importance of fostering the most perfect development of the lower branches is at once evident. To do this, it is not only necessary to preserve these lower branches from mutilation by carelessness or unskilful and excessive pruning, but the growth of the tree must be also restrained during youth, where an excessive vigor may tend to diminish the luxuriousness of the foliage near the ground. This applies more especially to the weep- ing beech, but the suggestion has definite and considerable value in the management of most kinds of trees. 99 FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SCA All maples are fine during summer. As a shade tree especially adapted to midsummer, the best of the genus is undoubtedly the Norway maple. Its leaves are broad and shadowy, with a texture and peculiar habit of lying close to the branches that is productive of the most agreeable shade. Broad and massive in general contour and of a rich green color, the Norway maple must necessarily be an agreeable feature of the summer lawn. For another kind of shade than that of the Norway maple, we turn to the Oriental plane-tree, a near relative of our American button-wood, only a better tree. In this instance we find plenty of shade, under large spreading foliage, but a shade that is far less agreeable than that of the beech or maple. Try the shade of the black walnut and compare it with that of the American chestnut. Some- thing in the texture and set of the leaves makes the dif- ference. Pliny speaks at some length of this difference between shade trees. The shade of the ailantus is not specially agreeable, although its fine large light-green foliage has a delightful Oriental effect on the summer lawn. Prac- tically the ailantus is thrust into Coventry on account of the disagreeable odor of its flowers for a week or two in June. The American chestnut is a noble tree on the summer lawn. The foliage is shining and elegant in outline, and dispenses a pleasant shade. It grows well, and is nearly always thrifty and vigorous. The flowers, too, that whiten the surface of a great chestnut im summer, add greatly to its attraction. One of the largest and most conspicuous trees on the lawn is the catalpa. Broad and massive-looking, especially (*VANIDQNYYa4 SNOW) “SAHO3S3Ed NVOIMSWV £6 94 FLOWERS AND, FOLIAGE OF SOMME. if pruned properly, it is quite unique in its way. Its shade, however, is not as agreeable as that of the beech or mapie. There is a golden catalpa that bears great golden leaves in June, and on its second growth of August and September. These leaves are conspicuous and specially effective at a considerable distance. The ashes are many of them quite interesting in summer, particularly those that are variegated on their second growth of young leaves. Such a one is the European ash ( /7aainus concavefolia), so called on account of the peculiar forma- tion of its leaves. The second growth of this variety, as well as the growth of June, has the appearance of a loose bouquet of flowers at a distance, white, red, and green, arranged in an irregular clustered shape. The white fringe ( Chionanthus Virginica), a relative of the ash, has also a fine shining foliage, which makes it a charming plant even after its lace-like masses of flowers in June are gone. One of the finest summer shade and ornamental trees is the Kentucky coffee-tree. The leaves are acacia-like, light- green, and graceful, but their chief charm hes in the fact that they are set on edge, as it were, so that the sunlight slides or sifts through in a very peculiar fashion. This makes the shade, however, of a most agreeable character, and lends the tree a special charm for the summer-time. A rough, dark bark also gives the Kentucky coffee-tree a still more striking character, from the contrast it makes with the light and elegant foliage. Of light-green, sunny foliage also is the A’@lreuteria—a summer tree in every sense! To a round-headed fine con- ee PLOWEE SANT FPOLTAGE OF SCMME R. 95 tour is added a light-green color, and a soft green velvety texture suggested rather than felt. In June, its yellow flowers are beautiful, but its foliage alone should obtain for it much employment as a summer tree. There is again the liquid ambar or sweet gum. We all know this tree, and prize it much for its rich red color in fall. Scarcely less lovely, however, are the summer quali- ties of its hght-green star-shaped leaves and generally unique effect. Indeed, we can hardly employ it distinctively as a summer tree, because of its great ornamental value at all seasons. Nor would I like to forget in this connection another forest tree, of most excellent and shining qualities in the summer-time, as well as in the earlier days of spring. The tulip-tree is noble at most times, but never more so than when it rears its lofty shining foliage above the sur- rounding summer greenery. If the tulip-tree were more easily transplanted it would be more widely planted, for it is In every way an excellent shade and ornamental tree. The remedy for this defect or difficulty in transplanting is obtained by setting out in spring young trees four to six feet high. I must not forget before leaving the tulip to speak of the magnificent erect bole its trunk presents. Only corrugated in the bark enough to give it a look of strength, the smooth tall shaft springs up to a great height and makes at all times one of the most attractive features of the tree. Magnolias generally on account of their flowers belong more particularly to spring, but midsummer should claim at least one species, the American M. macrophylla. Tt is 96 FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SUMMER. the most tropical-looking tree of the lawn, the great massive leaves assuming the gigantic proportions of three feet long and a foot broad. These leaves are, moreover, rich and shining in color and striking throughout the summer. A conspicuous position and abundant room at some distance from the house should be accorded this magnolia for the attainment of its fullest effect. Its shade is delightful, and as a summer tree its rank is In every way high. But let us turn to a group of summer trees that rank on the lawn only second to the beeches. There are so many fine varieties in the richly endowed genus of oaks that I am in doubt which to select for special notice. They are all fine summer trees, and the American varieties per- haps most of all. When we lament our inability to grow the perfect evergreens seen everywhere in England, we have only to turn to our grand native oaks and feel com- pensated by our richness in that deciduous genus alone. Among American oaks there is the chestnut oak, com. bining the fine outline of leaf of the chestnut and all the grandeur and shining qualities of the true oak type. For an oak it grows with much vigor and symmetry. Then there is the white oak, also of noble proportions, as well as the red oak. The scarlet oak is somewhat smaller. Among American oaks there is no finer at any time, and especially in summer, than the pin oak ( Quercus palustris ). Its drooping, yet vigorous and shining foliage make one of the most striking features of any summer landscape. A fine species for this season of the year is the willow oak ( Quercus phellos), with light gray, curious, narrow leaves. Originally growing in a more southern climate PEOWVETS AND KOLTAGE OF SUMMER. 9% tlian our Middle and Eastern States, it yet seems perfectly hardy throughout the North. It is round-headed and small-sized for an oak and is in every way an interesting and valuable ornamental tree. The English oak ( Quercus robur ), and its well-marked variety, pedunculata, are noble- looking trees, although they do not succeed as invariably in America as our American species. This oak is fine for both appearance and shade in summer, particularly in one or two ofits varieties. The most remarkable is the golden oak ( Quercus robur pedunculata Concordia). In June, this oak is greenish-gold, but later takes on its full deep golden tint, which it retains until frost. Such bright lively tints are very refreshing and charming during the heat and dull hues of August. No summer lawn should be considered complete without a golden oak planted in some conspicuous position where the yellowish tint will contrast properly with the green of other foliage. This variety grows fairly for an oak, and the foliage, when the tree has been well pruned, lies in thick rich masses of the most attractive charac- ter. Indeed, what tree will not judicious pruning improve ? Of the Japan oaks there are few grander and more ef:- fective in summer than the royal oak of Japan ( Quercus Daimio). No oak known on the lawn has larger leaves. For summer ornament it is therefore very effective. The pyramidal oak, a European variety, is also fine in summer with its great vigor and bold outline. Another variety of the English oak, viz, the weeping form, has fine foliage and a remarkable habit to render it conspicuous in summer on the lawn. My space would not of course permit the description of all oaks valuable on the summer lawn; for, 7 98 FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF (SOMME ke indeed, all are fine at that season and the number of the varieties is legion. I have mentioned, however, some of the most remarkable. The poplars and willows generally seem to belong to an earlier season than midsummer, but there are one or two varieties | must mention in this connection. Many poplars are objectionable on account of an evil habit of suckering and a somewhat coarse appearance, valuable as they are in many situations. But the balsam poplar is in every way a fine ornamental tree. It is clean and healthy and free from suckers, and has a grand outline and size of leaf. The color of the foliage is rich and shining, and well fitting to the summer lawn. Yellowish drab or brown and finely marked, the branches and trunks are likewise attractive. Resembling the balsam poplar, in its fitness for the summer lawn, there is the Salix laurifolia or pentandra, the laurel-leaved willow. This plant has been employed with little reference to summer, but few trees have finer foliage in summer, and it continues bright and shining until late in fall. It is strong-growing, however, more a tree than a bush, and inclined to lose its lower branches, and therefore should be planted in the screening masses of other shrubs. Of a dwarfer habit is the gray, curving, narrow-leaved rosemary willow, the cool, soft tints of which are well fitted to please the eye during the glaring days of August. It suits the outskirts of shrub groups from its compact, round and weeping habit. All the willows, in fact, are pleasant to the eye in summer, and free from the worn-out look peculiar to many trees at this season. There are two summer trees or shrubs (for they partake of the characteristics of both shrub and tree) which we FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SUMMER. 99 must not overlook, so beautiful are they, and unique in their owu peculiar way. One is Stuartia pentagynia and the other Oxydendrum arboreum, or Andromeda urborea, the sorrel-tree. The first, bearing throughout the season foliage invariably bright and beautiful, is particularly at- tractive at midsummer for creamy-white, orange-like clusters of flowers. The Andromeda arborea, noticed in detail in another place, has during the scarcity of flowers at midsum- mer the supreme attraction of white, swaying tassels of sweet-scented bloom. The little Lypericum, studded with quantities of bright yellow flowers, is not to be despised at this season, and the delicate, feathery foliage and beaded pink flowers of the hardy Zamarisk Indica are in full perfection at about the same time. The rich, effective hues of the A/thea flowers also pertain properly to summer, although they last into September. But the now celebrated Lydrangea paniculata grandiflora, with its great trusses of white and pink flowers, hardly belongs to summer properly, for its richest and most varied tints of 4 crimson only appear just before the first approach of frost. Let us not forget either in assem- bling our summer lawn beauties to : DOUBLE FLOWERING ALTHEA. employ the old and neglected Lyctwm —_ (wisiscus syaiacus, Ft.rt.) barbarum, or box thorn, with its curving masses of small, half-climbing foliage, studded in August with little effec- 100 FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE OF SOMMER. tive purple flowers. It is also valuable because it will thrive in any soil or exposure. The dogwoods have perhaps no distinctive summer quality, but they are so fine both m wood and leafage throughout the year that I should invariably melude them among an assemblage of summer lawn plants. One of the most effective of our large shrubs in summer is the Colutea, or bladder senna, in its several varieties. An acacia-like foliage and great compactness and vigor give it special value for combination in shrub groups, but its yellow or yellowish-red pea-blossom-like flowers in June and July, followed by reddish pods or bladders, are also valuable features for the summer lawn. The attained. If artists were all gardeners or gardeners all ar- tists, these effects and their construction would be familiar MORUMNAL COLOR ON THE LAWN. I1% to us ; as it is, we must be satisfied with a suggestive sketch, and hope that the love for lawn-planting may soon grow sufficiently to demand a more exhaustive treatment of color composition in foliage than I can expect to give at the present time. The foliage which I now choose for consideration is that of late fall, and the part of the season that I specially select as offering the most lovely and varied color of autumn is that which is frequently called Indian summer. We all know it. There is possibly nothing of the kind in the world that surpasses it. The shimmering haze and indis- tinct view of objects that seem to wave slightly before the eye, the brilliant tints of outlying trees and shrubs relieved against dark foliage and naked branches, all combine to create'a picture of surpassing loveliness. As well might I attempt to explain how to imitate the tints of the leaf itself as to discern the methods by which all these wonderful effects are brought together in field and wood. The brisk, pure air and almost faint stillness often add to the glamour of the scene. In short, the senses simply luxuriate in the feast spread before them, to the en- tire exclusion, for the moment, of any desire to explain the why and wherefore. Like the lotus eaters we are satisfied “only to hear and see,” but, doubtless, like them too, only for a little while, in spite of any intimation of the poet to and we the contrary. When the time comes to plant have studied the subject—we find, however, that by work- ing on the same principles as nature uses in her favored spots, we can secure something of the same effect on our lawns. It may not indeed have the peculiar charm of true 118 AUTUMNAL COLOR ON LAE Avia wildwood scenery, but in a more cultured, dignified way, it may be quite as beautiful. Any lawn can secure more or less of these autumnal color effects, but large lawns where the attainment of dis- tance is possible will compass better their employment. The colors may be thus seen toned down to their loveliest shade, and that wonderful Indian summer atmosphere attained which, during some, not all seasons, produces such magical effects. Doubtless smaller lawns can and should supply charming color combinations peculiar to this season ; I only allude to the superiority of large lawns for the pur- pose. Let us see how we must go to work to build up these effects. In the first place, we must see that we have dark- green or brownish backgrounds and recesses against which to construct our most brilliant features. In fact, some of these tender grays and browns of autumn are truly wonder- ful, and, moreover, a part of the picture we are apt to over- look, although if they were left out we would at once miss them. Of what then are these backgrounds composed ? First we must remember that the autumnal pictures on the lawn and in the woods can never be exactly alike. One is cultivated and the other wild nature. While therefore the general composition is constructed on like principles, the material and spirit of the two scenes, if I may use such an expression, must be of necessity different. Thus in both we find a background, in the main of heavy green, brown, or gray, varied in the widest and subtlest manner within certain limits, but the material used must and will be greatly different. Hickories and pep- PEO LNCMINAL COLOR ON THE LAWN. 119 peridges, for instance, are practically ruled out from lawn planting of any kind because they are so difficult to trans- plant and grow. On the other hand, the lawn may employ many foreign varieties of trees which will go far to make up for any lack of the wild beauty of native trees unsuited for the purpose. Such an arrangement of trees will be characterized by dignity and a choice and elegant charm, suggesting even in solitude the fitness of the place for human occupation. It is therefore no mere imitation of nature we should attempt on our lawns. The very first and best tree, for instance, to use in the massed and green part of our autumnal lawn effect is the Norway maple. This may seem a little strange to those not familar with trees, for maples are generally looked upon as capable of distinguishing themselves in fall chiefly by means of color. But the Norway maple holds a dark- green color late, and finally its leaves wither and drop with- out making any special exhibition of red of any shade. Otherwise, the Norway maple is considered the most generally valuable of lawn trees, alike for fine rounded contours, rich coloring, and healthy long-lived vigor. It occupies therefore a fitting position in forming the mass of the background of a plantation made for autumnal effect. If some pool or stream happens to be near this grouping the effect will be greatly enhanced by appearing the second time in the watery mirror of its surface. Having secured the background of dark green, in front of which to build up other elements of the picture, we must be careful not to destroy its broad loveliness by con- structing small mixed-color effects after the Persian-rug 120 AVUTOMNAL: COLOR CON GAL EAL. type. There may and should be, doubtless, variety in even the background, but in the main the mass effect must be in this case dark green. Variety may be obtained by white- stemmed birches, and the branches even of deciduous trees that have lost their leaves. Deciduous trees, by the by, should make up the major portion, if not all, of our autumnal effect. Evergreens, except as they may be used here and there very sparingly to punctuate, as it were, the mass of the background, should not be employed, because, as a rule, they do not look well associated with deciduous trees. Now and then great variety of form may be attained in the background by using in the immediate outskirts of the grouping, rigid-looking, grotesque, naked branches, like those of the Japan ginkgo and pyramidal oak. The Kentucky coffee-tree shows in this background delicate, pleasing outlines, early denuded as it is of foliage. Indeed it is one of the most attractive of deciduous trees, with its peculiar trunk and branches, and its light, feathery, graceful foliage. Wide-spreading branches of the curious weeping elm, lately referred to, standing well for- ward in the mass, serve to vary the effect with partially naked limbs, for the leaves of this elm hang on late. The broad, rounded contours of that loveliest of decidu- ous trees, the Cladrustis tinctoria, Virgilea lutea, or yellow wood, increase this variety with curious branching and beauty of yellow fading foliage. The background is thus subtly shaded, and yet broad and massive. Dark-green color characterizes the bulk of the plantation, while all sameness of color is relieved by browns and grays of other fohage, and KENTUCKY COFFEE-TREE. 12 (GYMNOCLADUS CANADENSIS. ) 122 AUTUMNAL COLOR-ON DE LAV: occasional naked stems and branches. These other colors are subordinated, as well as softened, into due sympathy with the autumnal characteristics of this particular part of the season. After all, the background should be employed mainly as a foil for the brighter beauties of autumn. It is common to think of red tints as the noteworthy colors of autumn foliage ; yet there are many others which are very attractive, as even our brief consideration of a proper back- ground has already shown us. We must come now to consider the higher notes or chords of our symphony of color. The most brilliant effects are reached in the red or crimson tints. Scarlet is a color almost unknown to the normal foliage of hardy plants. The most familiar example of this rich chord of color is found in the autumn tints of the swamp, or falsely named searlet, naple, Acer rubrum, and in the common sugar maple. Of all the forms of maples, except the shrubby polymorphum from Japan, these are the only species remarkable for their red color in fall. How beautiful they are, thousands can testify who have stood entranced before the sugar maples of the hills of Vermont or the scarlet maples on the banks of the Delaware. Sugar maples sometimes color grandly, especially on hillsides. On the lawn, these reddish tints often fail, or simply serve to warm the rich golden-yellow which is apt to take their place. For that matter, who has not often seen as fine a yellow on the tulip poplar! We should, therefore, plant the tulip poplar in the background, where its colors will blend agreeabiy with the greens and browns of the other trees. The sugar maple, also, does not generally S) meOnOMUNAL COLOR. ON THE LAWN. 123 make the richest points of color in the landscape, but must be contented to heighten very materially the quieter tints of the background. Since, moreover, it is elegant and symmetrical in outline, one of our very choicest shade trees, it should stand well forward in the mass or background. The scarlet or red maple is the richest in autumnal color of all maples; I was about to say of all trees. It seldom fails during any autumn to change more or less splendidly ; and therefore deserves to stand out a single flaming monu- ment in the van of all autumnal color. There is something quite indescribable in the glow and intensity of tint often displayed by this maple. Is it ignorance or the want of seeing eyes that causes its lack of employment on the lawn ? It is true, the scarlet maple is slower-growing than the sugar maple, of less regular and pleasing outline, and certainly less beautiful and satisfactory at other seasons of the year. But in fall, it simply reigns supreme. Scarcely less beautiful than the scarlet maple are some of the oaks. Many of them, like the Turkey, English, and pyramidal oaks, are grandly effective in the background with their solid dark-green tints. But the white, red, and scarlet oaks—American species all—take on the most dis- tinct and glowing autumnal colors. All oaks are too much neglected in lawn-planting. Whether for color, form, or rugged longevity, they are invaluable for ornamental pur- poses on the lawn. Here, too, while speaking of oaks, I should again mention the golden oak ( Quercus Concordia ). This tree serves as an instance where—although it too 1s apt to lose its beauty somewhat before the Indian 124- AUTUMNAL COLOR, ON TEE AVH summer—another color than red becomes, by its intensity, almost the brilliant feature of the scene. Its special peculi- arity appears in the fact that it becomes more and more golden all summer until in mid-autumn it stands a bright yellow flame of health and vigor amid the dull and fading tints of fall. It is one of the choicest of recent introduc- tions, and holds its foliage late. Turning again to the consideration of reddish autumnal tints, we find the liquid ambar presenting the deepest, darkest crimson on its more or less star-shaped leaves. This tree is of smaller size than maples, tulips, or oaks, but is one of our half dozen thoroughly excellent autumn trees. It is round-headed, has a straight rough stem, and is alto- gether a very characteristic American tree. In this arrange- ment of color it should be continually remembered that we want striking, prominent points of interest on which the eye may rest with pleasure. There must be generally no confusion, no mingling in the case of these interesting points of red color, The group of red trees look better standing quite away from any general green mass, a flaming forerunner or standard-bearer at the head of the retreating hosts of autumn. Before proceeding to dwell on beautiful shrubs, we must look a moment at a plant that is almost a shrub in habit, but which merits a most distinguished position on the lawn. This plant is the new and rare Chinese sumac (Thus Osbeckii). 1 know of no richer red than that which suffuses its large leaf. It is crimson, changing almost to scarlet in certain spots. The large wing’ or prolongation of each leaf on either side of the stem makes it still more LIQUID AMBAR. 125 126 AUTUMNAL COLOR ON-TAE EAT curious and effective. In habit it is somewhat straggling and open, but the color is positively unsurpassed. Andromeda arborea,or Oxydendrum arboreum, the sorrel tree, is another most excellent plant in the foreground of our autumn picture. The leaves hang on late, and assume lovely variegations of mottled green and red, turning later into fine reddish crimson. Though a native plant, this shrub is rare. It should certainly be as common as its slow growth and difficult propagation will permit. Cornus florida, the white flowering dogwood of early spring, has also glowing red autumnal tints on its leaves, which compose themselves in broad stratified masses. All this color, however, in the case of shrubs mtended to carry out the general design, should be backed up in the same manner as the colors of trees were treated—that 1s, with plants of similar size and solid green foliage like the California privet and laurel-leaved willow. Both are large and rapid-growing, well calculated to make a pleasing con- trast among the larger contours of the trees which constitute the true background. ‘ wt My “tu bl—_— u allt, & CHAPTER Vi LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. [i NY witha Uh . dln Iy es re ce ( ‘LEARLY preconceived effects are con- trived for spring and summer, both on parks and lawns. Outline and form, singly and in mass, have a fair degree of attention paid them during these seasons, but combinations of color attract less attention during even the “perfect days of June.” Later on, as summer hues fade, still less thought is given to securing renewed beauty of foliage and flower by employing such plants as are specially fine in August and September. Such plants may indeed be set out, but this is seldom done with a conscious intention of prolonging the season of beautiful foliage, or of producing distinct compositions. In autumn, finally, two specially charming objects may be and sometimes are sought in the use of plants. One looks to the retention of a rich, healthy, green foliage as late as possible by means of cer- tain oaks, beeches, elms, and golden and green conifers, while another employs the wonderful crimson and gold 135 136 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER LPL, tints of maples, liquidambars, sumac, etc., to construct the lovely pictures naturally peculiar to the season. I am sorry to say, however, that we find the last essay made in the most tentative manner. Most people who at- tempt the experiment are satisfied with a scarlet maple or two, or a liquidambar. It seems hardly to have entered their minds that in thus combining on the lawn unrivalled autumnal color they have at hand possible mass effects of the finest character. They look with pleasure in fall at glades of oak, pepperidge, and maple entwined with blood- red Virginia creepers, and never think of analyzing the composition of the charming effect, much less seek to develop the same thing, as it were, on their lawns. It is this apathy - in regard to a thousand natural charms that ask for recog- nition at our very doors that impels me to consider briefly one department of this subject, namely, the production of domestic winter landscape. I choose it because, after the varied attractions of June, lawn-planting for winter effect seems to me worthy of more distinct treatment than that of either of the other seasons. A portion of the lawn which can be seen as a picture through the frame made by the outline of a certain window should be so planted that it will always be sure to present a delightful scene during the varied changes of winter, when one is necessarily kept within doors more than in summer. Nor need there be any detriment wrought to the general character of the lawn by this limited operation, if only a broad, systematic treatment be maintained every- where on all parts of the place. Let us, then, look out upon our lawn, and see where and LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT, 137 how we can best produce the desired result. I assume that most of us possess lawns of limited dimensions; in the case of the larger lawns, their treatment may be considered by regular experts. The small landholder, however, with his few hundred square feet of land, must generally bestow such treatment as he can give himself, with the help of in- ferior labor. Moreover, a thousand are interested in small holdings where one possesses or cares for the grand estate. Most houses have several windows, any one of which may be selected for the frame of our winter picture. Other things being equal, the window should be chosen that looks out on the bleakest part of the lawn, or in some direction where objects would otherwise be visible which it is desir- able to screen. In either case, it will be found that ever- greens, of which all artificial winter landscapes should be more or less composed, serve to modify and render cosey bleak places, as well as to hide unsightly details. Fre- quently this point lies on the northwest part of the grounds. Complete unity, however, must exist between the treatment of this and other sections of the lawn; otherwise every- thing will have a loose, straggling, semi-detached look, as if the plants had happened together by chance, and were not at all sure that they were worthily treated or comfortably situated. The general outline of the masses of foliage will natu- rally be made coincident with the boundary lines of the property, except as glimpses without are desired; so that when we use the larger evergreens they will very properly occupy the background of the picture. In other words, their rich, solid mass will make a bold and suitable foil, 188 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. both summer and winter, for the more delicate tints and outlines of smaller evergreen and deciduous plants. For this, indeed, is one of the peculiar features of our winter lawn: that it uses deciduous plants, plants devoid of foliage, as freely as evergreens, in the winter picture. Nothing in the woods can surpass the sweeping grace of fold on fold of snow swathing the dark, drooping branches of the hardy spruces that make up the mass of the back- ground. Pine and hemlock may alternate now and then with Norway spruces, and vary the charm of this back- ground with the bright green or bluish tints of the former and the peculiar hght bluish-gray of the latter The pines, especially those of the mughus species, stand firm, rugged, and strong, and the long blue needles of the white pine lend just sufficient variety of tone to satisfy the eye. For grace nothing can surpass the hemlock, which readily retains in its folds sweeping wreaths of snow or diadems of icicles. Rich mass, firm outline, and evergreen tints of the greatest variety characterize the view thus far considered from the window. But we have only begun to analyze the many possible and varied effects. Broad spaces of grass slope up to the house in front, and, although not green, serve to establish a sufficient distance to permit the arrangement of a middle-ground as well as a foreground and a background. This middle-ground is always to me the most charming part of any section of the lawn. Elsewhere, mass or extreme detail obscures one’s best conception of any beautiful plant. In the middle-ground, the really choice plant offers itself to the eye with the most inviting effect. Its weak points are thus somewhat hidden, and its LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT, 139 charms are enhanced twofold by the distance that here just suffices, not only to lend enchantment to the view, but to give an adequate impression of the plant considered as a whole. The plants that stand nearest the evergreen back- ground are evergreen also, both because they are allied by nature, and because they appear most bold and character- istic seen at a little distance from the house. One excep- tion to this arrangement may be effectively made by interspersing among the evergreens white birches, the value of which can hardly be overestimated in any lawn- planting, and in winter, ornamentally considered, they are almost indispensable. Notice the striking effect of the deli- cate, gleaming white stems placed here and there directly against the dark background of evergreens, and surrounded, perhaps, by fields of snow and ice. See how the contrast brightens the whole scene, and how curiously the white trunks and graceful drooping branches bear snow wreaths or icicles, each in its own characteristic way. A solid back- ground of evergreens presents much variety of rich color, blue, green, and silver, but the whole effect is, as 1t were, punctuated by these white birches. Nature uses the birches most delightfully in many a woodland winter scene, and our lawn is, we find, greatly improved by the free use of this artistic resource. But our attention is specially claimed by the specimens occupying the middle-ground. Here, too, we find a fair admixture of evergreen trees ad- visable. The evergreens disposed near the foreground are of medium, and in some cases of dwarf size, but always of interesting character, well fitted to make single features on the lawn. 140 LAWN-PLANTING POR WIN TE EEE CT. First and foremost 1s the Nordmann’s silver fir, broad and massive, with shining silvery leaves,—in every way a hardy, slow-growing evergreen, of noble outline and special symmetry. Though grand and impressive, it needs intelli- gent pruning, and for successful transplanting, a fibrous condition of roots that can be secured by frequent removal in the nursery and systematic root-pruning. The same remark applies to all silver firs, which are in many senses the finest evergreens for producing winter pictures. There is the silver fir (Adbdes amabilis), lovely, both by name and nature, and the still finer (Addes nobilis), of unsurpassed blue tints. Hudson’s Bay silver fir, of the same genus, Is one of the darkest, hardiest, and most dwarfed species, specially fitted for the outskirts of groups, or for dotting here and there in isolated positions. Par- sons’ silver fir (Abies Parsonsii) has wouderful leaves, always curling upward, long, and of a delicate bluish-green color. The so-called dwarf silver fir (_Ab¢es compacta), an intermediate form between Hudson’s Bay silver fir and Nordmanw’s fir, is especially noteworthy for hardiness, sym- metry, and compact elegance. It should be one of the most popular of evergreens. Then, among the larger forms, we note the Grecian silver fir, very fine and lighter-colored. The weeping silver fir is the type, perhaps, of the statuesque in the family. Intelligently pruned, it develops into a solid weeping col- umn of dark green. But here, as with all silver firs, if we are to get acompact growth below, the leading or top shoot must be pinched off from time to time during May or June. If possible or, rather, if not incongruous with the : , EG Today ORIENTAL SPRUCE. I4I (PICEA ORIENTALIS. ) 149. LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EEL. remaining part of the composition, it is well to place each of these species, firs, spruces, and the like, by themselves. Spruces we used to make up the mass of the background ; but then there are spruces not only adapted for this pur- pose, but suitable for general planting in the middle-ground, and even for the most distinguished positions as objects of special interest in the foreground. Any one looking at the dense round or hemispherical shape of the Gregory spruce, and at the taller though slow-growing columnar form of the weeping spruce, would scarcely believe that this and the common Norway spruce are so closely akin. The blue tint of the Colorado spruce ( Picea pungens ) shows capacity for varying color that is most invaluable for winter effect. Aleock’s spruce, from Japan, has also lovely variegations of yellow, silver, and green, and the tiger-tail spruce (Picea polita), from the same country, is rigid, yellow, and charac- teristic, and hardy and fine in many ways. The Oriental spruce is perhaps the most desirable of all the spruces for both winter and summer landscape. Its shining dense masses are remarkably hardy and_ striking. It belongs rather in the background, as somewhat larger in habit than the others. Nor should we neglect the beautiful American white spruce, hardy, dense, and richly colored. It grows more slowly than the common Norway spruce, but eventually attains sufficient size to associate it more or less with that evergreen. The most noteworthy spruces, how- ever, for winter-landscape effects are the weeping hemlock spruce and the weeping Norway spruce. The former is a charming evergreen, graceful and picturesqua with soft curving lines. Its light color and delicate tendrils give 1t mCP LANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT, 143 an almost feminine appearance. The rugged, strong out- line of the weeping Norway spruce, on the other hand, offers the greatest con- trast to the habit of this hemlock, and de- lights the eye, espe- cially in winter. The long branches of this slow - growing ever- green droop and hug the stem in most per- sistent fashion, now and then curling up eccentric shoots, which afford conven- ient lodgment for the snow. Both these striking evergreens should occupy the WEEPING NORWAY SPRUCE AND DWARF PINE. middle-ground of the (PICEA EXCELSA INVERTA AND PINUS STROBUS COMPACTA.) picture im specially effective positions. A cedar of Leb- anon, Where a cedar of Lebanon can be coaxed to grow, is also a prize on the winter lawn. Among the pines we find, perhaps, our most lovely and refined winter colors, but to establish pines upon the lawn is not always easy. Unless transplanted frequently in the nursery, pines develop naked roots, hard to remove with safety. The spruces and arbor vitzs act better, but silver firs and pines are, to say the least, troublesome in this respect. The most lovely pine, to me, in winter is the 144 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. Bhotan pine (Pinus excelsa). It presents such pictu- resque open masses, and the leaves are so long and deli- cately green that the eye dwells on its varied outlines with exceeding pleasure. Then there is the Swiss stone pine (P. cembra), bluish- green, and extremely striking in winter, as well as extremely hardy. Among the dwarf pines such forms are noteworthy as the dark mughus and mughus compacta, the finely tinted light- blue dwarf white CEDAR OF LEBANON. (CEDRUS LIBANI.) pine, and the more yellow and rounder dwarf Scotch. J/ughus uncinata is also striking, and, although dwarf, quite erect in habit. The large-crowing pines massed in the background among the other large spruces are peculiarly varied in color and form, and often very beautiful, laden with snow and ice. Dark, massive Austrian pines should have their forms displayed somewhat more prominently than the rest, while the deh- cate-hued and more sparsely-branched white pines should be grouped directly with the Norway spruces, for the sake of artistic breadth combined with interesting variety. LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. 145 Hemlocks also mass well in the background, their lighter colors and more graceful forms relieving the sombre char- acter of the adjoining spruces. In the outskirts of groups and rather in the foreground, we should find choice plants, such as the rare and exquisite golden Japanese or sunray pine (Pinus Massoniana variega- ta), with its rich and permanent yellow, so striking in fall and winter, and the slow- growing and extreme- ly rare Japan parasol 2 BHOTAN PINE. pine ( Sciadopitys ver- APNE: EXCELBA) ticillata), a highly prized and strange-looking tree, with dark green foliage growing in distinet whorls. Nor should we forget to plant in such positions the lovely Japanese retinosporas, of delicate, fern-like appearance and unexcelled hardiness of habit. Such plants form the intermediate shadings or half tones of the picture, presenting as they do in winter the most delightful tints of brown, green, and gold. It should be remembered that the winter coloring of evergreens is very different from that of summer. In many cases, like that of Io 146 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. the arbor vite, these winter tints are dull and uninviting, for which reason, in spite of the custom to the contrary, I do not much faney their employment for winter effects. But the retinosporas are, if anything, more lovely in winter than in summer, especially in their mingling of brown and gold. The really color in winter, very delightful from the fresh contrast it golden retinosporas have a pure yellow affords to the neutral tints of the surrounding scenery. Of like character is the bronze gold of dota elegan- tissima aurea, a Chinese golden arbor vite. There is a kin- ship in the appearance of ve//nosporas and arbor vites, 1 which the former have greatly the advantage in varied beauty; but we will do well to employ the golden bronze of the elegantissima arbor vite whenever we can give it a little favoring protection from cold, which is fortunately not needed for the retinosporas. There are exquisite bluish- tinted junipers, also, erect and torch-like in shape, the grace- ful lines and forms of which can be ill spared from any part of the lawn planted for winter effect. The regular evergreen shrubs cannot, of course, be ne- glected. Rhododendron foliage is broad, massive, and shining, one of the most effective features in winter on any lawn. The mahonias, though very different in many ways, have the same general effect, and should be employed, though always with the knowledge that they will fre- quently winter kill, that is, become deciduous, for they rarely die from cold. Masses of these mahonias shine and glisten in winter, and are altogether so fine that we must have them, notwithstanding their weakness. The tree box is also rich, solid, and very attractive during the cold MUGHO PINE. (PINUS MUGHUS. ) 147 148 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. months, although not always very hardy in the Northern States. It is an old plant, but merits, especially planted singly, the very highest consideration. Cotoneaster or Crategus pyracantha, the evergreen thorn, whether used for hedges or as a single plant, is always GINKGO TREE, IRISH YEWS, AND WEEPING SOPHORA. peculiarly beautiful in winter. Its low, dense masses of red bronze leaves, small and regularly formed, present a diversity of contour of the most pleasing character. Some- times a large mature plant lives through many winters with its shining, bright-green color unreddened by the faintest touch of frost. JAPAN PARASOL PINE. (ScIADOPITYS VERTICILLATA. ) 149 150 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. The Irish yew, in a sheltered place, is also invaluable for winter effect. I have far from exhausted the list of evergreens suitable for our picture, but have mentioned enough to give rich and abundant color and form to a landscape otherwise dead and lifeless. We must take care not to forget, in this analysis of the constituents of charming winter effects on the lawn, to consider the many beautiful forms and even colors of naked stems and bare branches of deciduous trees. It has been already noted how finely white-stemmed_ birches con- trast with the background of evergreens, not only in color, but in delicate variety of form, In like manner we have effects produced by other de- ciduous plants standing singly or in groups by themselves, or, under certain circumstances, in the immediate neighbor- hood and outskirts of evergreens. What can be richer in color, for instance, than the numerous crimson shoots of the red-stemmed dogwood ( Cornus sanguinea) ? Then we may have intermixed with it, or at least planted in close neigh- borhood, the golden willow, contrasting yellow stems with crimson ones. The red-twigged linden has fine reddish tints in winter on every portion of its current year’s growth of wood, and the golden-barked linden is useful in color as contrast to the golden willow and red-stemmed dogwood. The trunk of the striped maple (Acer Pennsylvani- cum) is also very beautiful in winter for its pink and green. ‘This is not hardy everywhere in the United States, although attractive in all places where it will live. It is unnecessary to press the point on observant lovers of trees that the forms of deciduous plants are very attractive in -“ OBTUSE-LEAVED JAPANESE CYPRESS. (RETINOSPORA OBTUSA. ) 151 152 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER eo their winter guise. They look cold and poorly clad, it is true, but the broad solid tints of evergreens readily relieve this bleak effect. And how grand and exquisite they are according to the nature of the tree, whether it be oak or birch, elm or beech! Two of the finest oaks for our purpose are the over-cup and pyramidal, although of the numerous varieties none fail to be effective in their winter habit. But the over-cup oak is specially striking on account of its rugged, grotesque twigs and branches, and the pyramidal for its bold, regular form and rapid growth. Elms, too, with their intersecting Gothic lines, must not be forgotten in planting for winter; neither the cork- barked variety nor wide-reaching weeping elm. The Japan ginkgo also throws out great arms or branches against a clear blue winter sky in the most eccen- tric manner. No less eccentric, but far more charming, are the noble masses of curled and drooping branches and twigs of the weeping beech. No tree is more picturesque in winter, and no evergreen more grand and striking. The tossing shapes and forms it assumes are myriad, and the play of color on the icicles it at times supports, is a wonder to behold. Its silhouette cut against the sky is remarkable for grace. The weeping sophora is also fine in winter, regularly curving downward, more dwarfed and less odd than the weeping beech. Both of these last-named trees merit the choicest and most conspicuous positions on the lawn, and perhaps the middle distance, a little to one side, suits their proper exhibition best. The strange, far-reaching branches of the weeping larch, especially when laden with snow, are picturesque in the extreme. LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. 153 We must be careful always to keep open considerable stretches of turf, endeavoring rather to flank than to cross with plants the direct line of vision through to the back- PARSONS?’ SILVER FIR, WEEPING NORWAY SPRUCE, AND WEEPING LARCH. c pleasing landscape for winter by means of intelligently CO combined color and form, but never to forget the homely ground. It should be our object always to compose a 154 LAWN-PLANTING FOR WINTER EFFECT. needs of particular plants in the way of shelter and con- genial soil. Fifty feet square, or less, will enable one to have a lovely winter picture, provided the composer can give due consideration to each plant’s physiology and possible artistic capacity, while fifty acres in the hands of even a genius, who is untutored, can hardly help producing abortive or overgrown effects at any season of the year. All this means, in short, that an artistic eye, sustained by a thorough knowledge and sympathetic management of plants, can make an inexpensive paradise of the smallest home lot even in mid-winter. + GHAPTERGEX. GARDEN FLOWERS. HE lawn we have defined as includ: ing trees, shrubs, rocks, ete., and, above all, as specially essential, we have included mown or closely cut grass. We do not, therefore, find on the lawn a proper place set apart for flowers. They doubt- less bloom here, there, and every- where on existing trees, shrubs, and plants of all kinds. Forming a very perceptible element of our enjoyment of the lawn, they do not, however, make an actual part of our lawn composition. It is the arrangement of foliage, of trees, and shrubs, and grass that should compose and characterize the lawn. Flowers there will doubtless be everywhere, on the trees and shrubs and along the bases of masses of foliage, where the hardy herbaceous plants will complete and accentuate the charming junction of tree and shrub foliage with lawn grass. But I believe in making a distinct and comfortable 155 156 GARDEN FLOWERS. abode for flowers—in a word, a flower garden, and an old- fashioned one, if you choose to call it so. It should be one where everything conspires to favor the growth of flowers, so that one may gather them without stint. To look only at a tree or shrub satisfies the observer, but flowers, to be enjoyed to the full, must be plucked, their fragrance in- haled, and their beauty of detail admired at leisure. It would seem best, at this point, to explain what plants I mean to indicate as specially suited to a flower garden. They are what may be somewhat technically termed “hardy herbaceous perennial plants,” herbaceous because their growth dies down during the winter and starts up the following spring, and perennial in contradistinetion to annual and biennial, because they continue to live for years. It is, of course, easy to name shrubs and bedding plants that bear plenty of flowers, and there is certainly no valid objection to planting them in the flower garden. Her- baceous plants, however, can be so arranged as to furnish bloom from March to Christmas, and an abundance of it; hence it seems to me that I am justified in recommend- ing them, for the most part, to supply the flower garden. There need be no hard and fast rules controlling the selec- tion, as there are many plants suited for the flower garden, such as hardy rose bushes, that we could not well do with- out. It is indeed the proper place in which to grow them. The method of growing herbaceous plants differs but little from that which applies to trees, shrubs, and bedding. Well-drained, rich, and mellow soil is alike congenial to all. As to the best method of arranging herbaceous plants and the most suitable site for a flower garden, I shall take » GARDEN FLOWERS. 157 the liberty of leaving that for consideration in a subsequent chapter. Suffice it to say that, as a rule, the flower garden should be arranged somewhere by itself, masked by trees and shrubs, so that it may not interfere with the unity, breadth, and simplicity of effect of the lawns and tree and shrub plantations. The number of the species and varieties of hardy herbaceous plants is legion. I could not in one chapter, of reasonable length, begin to discuss all that are worthy of mention. Since, however, the object of this writing is rather to suggest and stimulate to farther re- search than to exhaust the subject, I will content myself with describing a few of the best known and most easily obtained kinds. As one of the chief requisites of a flower garden is abundant bloom throughout the season, I purpose to consider briefly the spring, the early summer, the late summer, and the autumn flowers. One of the greatest surprises and delights of the year is. the first discovery of a wild flower in March. It should be understood, however, to prevent disappomtment, that the season of blooming gets much mixed during some years. Early kinds will not appear until well-known later ones have arrived, but the general relation of the bloom will be in the main as I shall give it. There are few plants in the border that show bloom earlier than the winter heath (Erica herbacea carnea). It is an old plant, but unfortunately one that has been little used in this country. The habit is low and spreading, and the flowers appear in March with the first budding of vege- tation. Red flowers hang on their branches in racemes. A lovely little plant that also comes in March during many 158 GARDEN FLOWERS. years is the bluets (Houstonia cerulea). It is common enough in the fields and woods of many localities of America, but is none the less well deserving of cultiva- tion. In height it only reaches about four inches, and the flowers are small, light blue, pale hlac, or often almost white, showing a yellowish eye. It is a dainty flower, and does well in the front part of the border or in rock-work. Saxifraga cordifolia (heart-leaved saxifrage) is one of the earliest of plants. Indeed, it some- times blooms so early in March that the flowers are injured by late frosts, but to this danger all very early flowers must be more or less exposed. It is a curious-looking plant, this saxifrage, when in bloom. The thick, fleshy roots bear a cluster of large heart-shaped, thick HEART-LEAVED saxirrace. evergreen leaves, from the centre eet eae of which arises, in early spring, a large naked stem, bearing at the top a spreading cluster of bell-shaped, rose-colored flowers. In height it is some- times a foot. Few plants give more delight on their first arrival in spring, and afterwards until October, than the violets, the bird’s-foot violets of the United States ( Viola pedata). They are much prized in Europe, and should be equally valued here. The dark-green leaves are handsomely cut, and the pale or deep blue flowers, an inch across, are very abun- dant and showy, although only four or five inches high. The pansy bird’s-foot violet ( V. pedata var. bicolor jis a vare and CARDEN FLOWERS. 159 showy variety, and bears flowers an inch and a half across, and of the deepest velvety purple. Very charming in early spring are the dwarf phloxes (.Phlow subulata). Tt is like moss, no higher than the budding grass, and has myriads of small pink flowers with darker centres. Great masses on the rocks at Central Park along the east and west PE © ns Vis drives make for visitors one “O' @© Swe of the most delghtful sur- zM 3 prises of early spring. One valuable quality of this phlox MOSS PINK. is that it will flourish on the alg gr a smallest amount of soil directly on the edge of rocks. There is a fine, pure white flowering variety, n2valis, that also deserves general employment. Phlox amewna is another fine pink species that grows somewhat higher. The hardy columbines in the season of bloom are all specially attractive. In early spring we have the Canada columbine ( Aguilegia Canadensis), showing abundant red and yellow flowers. This is a showy and effective plant, and should be planted in every arrangement of bedding plants. It is particularly effective on rock-work. It grows one to three feet high. Some of the anemones, or wind-flowers, come early in the spring, bearing blue and white flowers six to eight inches high, like Caroliniana and nemorosa of the United States. A. patens var. Nuttalliana, a native American plant of considerable value, is one of the largest 160 GARDEN FLOWERS. flowered blue varied species. Anemone Pulsutilla, Euro- pean pasque-flower, has finely cut leaves and solitary dark shaggy, purple flowers. Anemone sylvestris, snow- drop wind - flower, has pure white flowers, two inches across, and blooms in April and May, and sometimes all summer. It is only a foot high and is charming. All these species grow about eight to ten inches high. Alyssum saxatile (golden tuft), a close relative of rock-candy tuft, comes EUROPEAN PASQUE-FLOWER, (ANEMONE PULSATILLA. ) : very early in spring, has curious gray-green leaves and quantities of bright yellow flowers. It comes from the mountains of Southern Europe, and grows about a foot high. Its low compact masses are excellent for rock-work. Adonis vernalis (spring adonis) is a showy early spring-flowering plant with yellow flowers two or three inches across and finely cut leaves. It comes from Europe, and grows from ten to twelve inches high. There is a class of herbaceous plants that grow in close, low tufts that should be used throughout a mass of such plants as a kind of carpet. Dwarf phlox and alyssum are such plants, and performing this office in a still more marked degree, comes Avrenaria verna. It is the spring sandwort, a low tufted plant, two to four inches high, with numerous CARDEN FPLOWERS. 161 white flowers in early spring. Rough usage has little effect on this plant, and a turf might be made of it that would stand much better than grass the wear and tear of passing multitudes. It would, moreover, endure unharmed almost any droughts. " Wane ye webby hairs ; fectorwm, the common Wi ag house-leek, and, one of the finest and EN \/5 largest of all, S. calcareum. The last on SSS TE re. NEW YORK IRON-WEED. named has regular bluish leaves sitions Novescnncsie:) tipped each with a purple spine. Before closing this brief list of hardy herbaceous peren- nials I must refer to the Christmas roses, Helleborus niger, 198 GARDEN FLOWERS. CHRISTMAS ROSE. (HELLEBORUS NIGER. ) which I cannot exactly term autumn flowers. They bloom so late that, by using a frame over them and thus securing a little protection, their beautiful white flowers may be had at Christmas. They should be planted in a shady position ha oat and moist soil, as they are impatient of dry weather. //. niger altifolius is one of the best varieties, with pinkish white flowers and the char- acteristic dark-green fohage. The magnificent Japanese and Chinese chrysanthemums should be = given liberal space, but my excuse COBWEB HOUSE-LEEK. (SEMPERVIVUM ARACHNOIDEUM. ) lack of hardiness. They may live for not considering them is their and thrive with some protection, but there is no certainty. The proper way to grow them is to cultivate strong plants in pots and set them out in early fall, just before they GARDEN FLOWERS. 199 bloom, with the expectation of lifting them when the flowers have gone. | Colchicum autumnale, common meadow-saffron, is known as the autumn crocus, and is one of the latest flowers to appear in our beds and borders out-of-doors. The flowers appear alone without leaves, and consist of six lance- shaped somewhat spreading petals, rosy purple in color, and supported only an inch or two aboveground. The leaves begin to AUTUMN CROCUS. (COLCHICUM AUTUMNALE.) grow after the flowers cease, and reach their fullest development the following spring and early summer. They are lance-shaped, dark olive-green, and about nine to twelve inches long. The dahlhas constitute a well-known class of late flowering-plants, and pre- sent arich variety of color at a season when flowers are scarce. Their forms, however, are stiff and ar- tificial looking, and the more they are “perfected” by cultivation the stiffer they seem to become. These objections, how- ever, do not apply to SINGLE DAHLIAS. the single dahlias, that have been deservedly increasing in reputation of late. Their colors are quite varied and their single petals graceful. 200 GARDEN FLOWERS. Notwithstanding the great beauty of many double flowers, there is much to be said in favor of the more humble single-blooming kinds. The employment of herbaceous plants in the woods or in grass is a charming method of displaying their most characteristic beauties ; and for natural effects in connection with rockwork very many varieties are invaluable. Within the limits of the garden, however, and in the soil that can be there readily prepared, hardy herbaceous plants will thrive and grow as nowhere else. It may be somewhat less natural, and perhaps less artistic, but 1t 1s human, and it suits the flowers. I believe that the suggestion of any diagram arrangement of herbaceous plants will be hardly profitable. One would as easily suggest an arrangement for a bouquet of flowers. It should be irregular, and so disposed as to prevent one plant from obscuring the beauties of the others. The large ones should come, as a rule, somewhere at the back, and the next size nearer the front, and so on to the smallest. It is simple enough. A knowledge of the habits of the plants and good natural taste will do the work well if the above general rule is followed. These herbaceous plants may be planted effectively on the lawn in connection or in front of the shrubberies. First trees, then shrubs, then herbaceous plants or wild flowers, and finally grass. This is the natural arrangement of such lawn plantations. pm = => y ta & SWe CHAPTER X. GRANDMOTHER’S GARDEN. In POCA 5 erm inp sets Va%g Se erO Re el re = Ata § URING early boyhood, I paid long visits at the home of a dear old grandmother, in one of the most thoroughly crystallized towns of New England. Grandmother was a Quaker of the old school, and a pillar of the meeting, conse- quently everything about her was of the approved old-time sort. The garden, certainly, was no exception to the rule. I think I see now, the sober, dignified Quaker ladies, attired in suitable dove-color, pacing the garden walks or daintily plucking flowers. Surely finer flowers never grew than were reared in that garden, for the maintenance it received was exquisite. What sunny hours we children spent in it. And it was truly a charming spot, though something must be allowed for the glamour of boyish freshness and spirits. I feel, indeed, after seeing all the modern inventions, that I could cheerfully forego 201 202 GRANDMOTHER'S GARDEN. the most blazing effects that we behold nowadays on expensive lawns, for the privilege of enjoying once more the old garden behind grandmother’s house. I wish you could see the quaint old place as I recall it after the lapse of many years. It was, I confess, a somewhat formal and prim affair; but there was nothing commonplace or vulgar about it, as in the baser sort of what is now ealled ribbon gardening. On the contrary, there was a distinct flavor of individuality in the character of its appearance. The de- signer, being either a practical housewife, or inspired by one, had thought of many things besides mere ornament, and even the ornament had a distinct difference, which gave this garden a special suggestiveness of its own. The paths were laid out with entire regularity, and marked with long rows or borders of dwarf box; but there the regularity and sameness ceased, unless we count as regu- lar the scrupulously kept gravel of the walks, bedded with white pebbles. Such a garden naturally had its grape-vine, trained on some suitable supports, which, in this case, hap- pened to be the stable wall. The next-door neighbor, I remember, had an arbor for his grape-vines, that began, as it seemed, nowhere in particular, and ended twenty feet off with the most delightful neglect of any why or wherefore, except that it existed for the grape-vine; that was evi- dently enough for Deacon Jones. Nowadays such an arbor must have done duty alike as a place for seats, for a promenade, and also for the display of architectural ornament in the Queen Anne style. Not that such a triple performance of duty is not proper enough, but only it was not the way of gardens of those earlier days. GRANDMOTHER'S GARDEN. 208 For the economies of the house, there were all sorts of fragrant herbs, such as thyme, sweet-marjory, sage, mint, and half a dozen other sweet-smelling and savory plants, that were on this account, however, none the less attrac- tive as ornaments of the garden. They were not only delhghtful in themselves, but delightful because they reminded us of grandmother’s wonderful store- closet, from which issued so many good things. But grandmother’s garden was, GARDEN PINK. before all things, a productive flower Se eae garden. Unlike modern gardens, created for external show alone, it was a real storehouse of color and odor, out of which one could, day after day, gather rich treasures, and yet leave its beauty apparently undimmed. Everybody about the house, boys included, was welcome to pluck a flower occasion- ally without let or hindrance. The flowers, indeed, seemed actually to enjoy being plucked. They were not, of course, specially rare, and yet I am sorry to say that it might be difficult to find some of them nowadays. Their simple charms have, in fact, been al- SE Plu most entirely obscured by the glitter- (DIANTHUS BARBATUS. ) : , x eu ing novelties of the modern horticul- tural world. For instance, there were those rich old damask roses. They are seldom if ever seen now; and yet what 204 GRANDMOTHER'S GARDEN. masses of them there were in grandmother's garden, and how well I remember their rich color, and the delightful odor they exhaled when the dew was resting on their petals. Where shall we find now such beds of sweet-scented pinks,—not car- nations, but real hardy pinks,—and such sweet-williams? In few places; for they are out of fashion now. Tall clusters of phloxes stood here and there. Blue lark- spurs, tall, quaint, and lovely, nodded above carpets of portulaca vine, studded with scarlet flowers. Broad patches of the gorgeous herb- aceous peony were striking in effect, close by the strag- gling follage and flowers of the sweet-pea. Great hollyhocks were there, too, with richly colored single petals, the pure ° FALL LARKSPUR. ‘ 5 (DELPHINIUM ELATUM. ) outlines and decorative appearance of which fail not to charm the eye even now, amid the multitudinous resources of the mod- ern gardener. SINGLE HOLLYHOCKS. Snowdrops, crocuses, and other bulbs used to spring up as if by magic, year after year, in > secluded spots of grandmother's garden. Evidently no GRANDMOTHERS GARDEN. 205 definite arrangement had been applied to any of these plants, but somehow they were seen to be greatly to the advantage of the general effect. All stood together, just as they happened to come, behind the borders of box, in the rich, weedless brown earth. How fresh that brown earth smelled as it was dug up in early spring! Of other climbers than the grape-vine there were few. Wistarias, clematises, and the long list of similar plants of the present day were little used then. Filling their place in their own attractive way, were delicate morning-glories and graceful cypress vines, trained with some formality and with almost reverential care. These reminiscences may and should have a distinet purpose and effect on present landscape gardening undertak- ings. Let our circumstances and intentions be what they may, we can certainly build up for ourselves once more some genuine development of these quaint old garden recollections. We can,I think, do it all the better if we are poor and have only a half acre or a scant 25 x 100-foot. lot. In that case we should make a pilgrimage to Sunnyside (Irvington, N. Y.), and see how Washington Irving did, by fine instinct alone, for he was hardly a landscape gardener, what few landscape gardeners would have the simple self- control to attempt. A plain rambling house set on the banks of the Hudson with one walk winding from the pic- turesque lane to the porch and door-step, half a dozen or more elms and maples, a few simple flowers, blue and white, along the base of the dwelling, and you have literally all there is of the lawn. Not a coleus bed, not a shrub, noth- ing but exquisitely kept turf and a few stately old trees. 206 GRANDMOTHER S*GAKRDEW. The repose, the dignity, the quaint simplicity, and uncon- scious self-restraint of Sunnyside is my ideal of what a small place should be with a grandmother’s garden behind it. But the reader will say, perhaps, I have my acres of land with drives, rhododen- dron groups, shrubberies, green houses, beds of cannas and co- leuses, and yet why cannot I too have my grandmother's garden? You can have it, without doubt, but since it will be necessarily out of keep- ing with the general scope of your place, you will have to isolate it and shut it from view with large trees and shrubs, so that it will be a surprise when discovered, and not count in the general effect of COREOPSIS LANCOLATA. the lawn. In order to explain what I mean, I have introduced a plan of a place near Orange, N. J., where just this arrange- ment for a grandmother's garden was undertaken. It is not, of course, exactly what we remember our grandmoth- er’s garden to have been, other times, other manners,—but it is built on the same plan, amplified and perfected in ac- cordance with the richness of our modern list of peren- nial garden plants. It is less quaint, I acknowledge, less S'OE WALK STREET STREET N. J., AS LAID OUT BY VAUX & CO. ) PRIVATE PLACE AT ORANGE 207 old-timy, but it has as uch quaintness as the old rooms with the grandmother’s fur- niture seen in modern houses, and is quite as much in keeping. Let us look at the plan. It represents a place of three acres. There is a broad drive that sweeps up to the front of the house and then turns and passes out to the barn. in this natural treat- ment of my shores. ve There was no frequent “7 repetition of the prom- ¢ ontory and bay idea. Se Z At only a few points “7 was any change made Y in the original line of theshore. Such changes PAMPAS GRASS. as I did make, however, egal were forcible and marked and carefully adjusted in the exact direction and angle that the stream would be likely to take when it worked its fantastic way before a rapid current or overflow. Grasses and shrubs suited to low grounds, of the kinds I have named, were scattered in small groups about the points running back, sometimes quite a distance, up the 244 PONDS AND LAKES. bank. In the midst of these groups grew some higher shrubs or small trees like the birch, for the sake of empha- sizing the effect and giving variety of sky-line. I do not wish to be needlessly technical, but if you could see the two great Lombardy poplars, forty feet high, bordermg and making a frame, as it were, for my place, you would understand what I mean by emphasis. Great towers of green, these poplars seem to be mounting guard over my small domain, and their long shadows at sundown reach far across the stream a EUZN and the grass of the meadow beyond. I \ | ASH ‘3 fie SS aN . - a « a7 , \ Mie am not going to apologize for my pop- NM ie EULALIA. (JAPONICA ZEBRINA. ) lars. They were and are grand, and J am proud of them. Tree-experts may warn me that they are hable to borers and bark-lice, and that they lose their leaves early in the season, and in many ways invite the use of the axe. It may be so. I have enjoyed them, however, for a number of years and they are entirely healthy yet, although surely a score of years in age. It will be a long time, therefore, before an axe under my direction will touch them. Even the tendency to lose their leaves early in the season would not induce me to use the axe, for their lofty spire-like forms dominate everything and estab- lish that variety of sky-line so much to be desired by the lawn-planter. Let the limbs be bare and the trunk scarred and seamed with borers, the noble outline is there, and shrubs and small trees can be made to sereen the lower and generally ugher portions. It should be remembered also, that an occasional pruning, as the years go on, tends greatly to renew and perpetuate the poplar’s health and vigor. FONDS AND GAIKES. 245 But, the reader will say, where is the lily-pond? You have told us about your lawn with its stream and old mill- pond, but where are your lilies? Well, I answer, do not be in a hurry. I assure you if I had not selected and arranged my lawn and water properties as I did, the lihes I might have set out would have been of much Jess account than they are. Remember the lilies on my former place. In y i BORDER OF THE FOUNTAIN, UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK.—LOTUSES AND WATER-LILIES. truth, without some of the characteristics of my present lawn the proper setting for the clustering water-lily gems would have been absent. And think what a setting they = had now—great poplars, drooping willows, alders, waving grasses, purple irises, purple marsh-mallows growing on prom- ontories of a brimming river backed by a sloping bank of rich greensward. In the coves, chiefly, of my stream and pond were set my lily-jewels. The bottom of the water 246 PONDS: AND LAKES. was deepened and a foot of soul, not in spots but along the entire front, was replaced by the richest mixture I could make of mould and manure. Pond-lilies are great feeders, and I intended to give them the best chance I could to look their prettiest. For the Melwmbiums or lotuses con- siderable clay is needed. Fortunately, my soil had nat- urally plenty of clay. I used, moreover, other kinds of water-plants besides lilies, and some of them, as well as certain lilies, were tender, coming as they do originally from the tropics. _ The tender ones I bought anew every year, at a moder- ate expense, from one of the few growers in America. I may have expended during some years one hundred and even one hundred and fifty dollars, but it was a small sum compared with the amount necessary to keep up a green- house fitted with suitable tanks. Water-lilies and aquatic plants winter badly in cellars. "They are easily excited to grow by a little excess of light and heat, and as easily checked and injured by an excess of cold. Except a few kinds, such as the wonderful blue and purple water-liles of Zanzibar, which I bought yearly, I have therefore managed to content myself with a number of perfectly hardy aqua- tics, including some of the best water-lilies and lotuses. Doubtless the biggest, grandest, and most effective of these was the lotus Melumbium speciosum. This plant is the greatest feeder of all, and will thrive prodigiously in the richest, rankest mud that can be concocted. It will, in fact, crowd out most other plants, and should be thinned every year so as to appear in clusters and not in monot- onous masses extending from shore to shore. This Welwm- PONDS AND LAKES. 247 biwm is widely known in India and Japan as the lotus, and is there considered sacred and is freely copied in their decorative designs. It is also probably the lotus of ancient Egypt. | 3 Picture for yourself a pumpkin-leaf erected three or four feet high on a stem, and great buds that look, for all the world, like gigantic tea-rose buds, and you will have a AN ARRANGEMENT OF LOTUSES AND LILY-PADS. fair idea of the general appearance of the lotus. Of course, the leaves of the lotus are more finely veined and smoother and more shining of texture, and the flowers grander and richer in tint than the tea-rose bud; but, for all that, the pumpkin-leaf and tea-rose bud comparison is a suggestive one. The botanical name of the lotus, Velumbium, signify- ing a rose or spray of a watering-pot, is very descriptive of the curious seed-pod. There is a fine Velwmbium, native to ] ; 248 PONDS | AND EAKES. America, 2 yellow Jotus with excellent fohage, which is found in one or two places in New Jersey, but which chiefly abounds in Florida and other Southern and Western States. The leaves of this species are quite as noteworthy as those of the familiar Nelumbium speciosum. These are often two feet in diameter. A GROUP OF JAPANESE LOTUSES. (NELUMBIUM SPECIOSUM. ) The lotus leaves and flowers are decorative and striking in effect, but the true water-lilies, the Wympheas, are, after all, Tam inclined to say, the best ornamental water-plants. Following out my Lombardy poplar idea of emphasis, I PONDS AND LAKES, 249 used many lotuses in front of my brook and pond promon- tories. “But in all my experiments with aquatic plants I never chanced on any pond-effects quite equal to that of my coves of Mymphwas in midsummer. Fancy a quiet, mirror-like surface of water, studded with clustering masses of lily-pads, enfolding half-open flowers, nestling yet buoy- ant. Every one is familiar with scenes in woodland nooks resembling this in kind. The remarkable difference on my place was that my trees and shrubs, grasses and flowers, came to the water’s edge and were mirrored there, and that in front and about them floated and were reflected lily-pads of excellent size and coloring. ‘The flowers also of these great tropical lilies were especially large and richly hued, some species being pure white, others red, and still others purple and deep blue, I have had these water-lilies and other water-plants growing on my place now for several years, but I confess that, even at the present time, familiar as they are to me, when [ look at one of these blue lilies on an early summer morning I am impressed with the scene as an absolute revelation of beauty, a landscape feature posi- tively unique. Tam not going, on this occasion, to give an account of S; all the aquatic plants I grow. [have the tender Pontederia crassipes, a floating plant with curious orchid-like purple flowers, water-poppies, pitcher-plants, cat-tails, and a score of other species and varieties that I shall not enumerate. All these kinds of water-plants doubtless add greatly to the attractions of decorative waters, but, after all, it is the lotuses and lilies, or lilies and lotuses, not giving the prece- dence to either, that every one ought to want. Having 250 PONDS AND LAKES. once had them, any decorative piece of water without them will seem almost uninteresting, no matter what other water- plants are employed. Let me say here, before I forget, that spaces of clear surface among water-plants, with undisturbed reflections, are particularly necessary to secure the best effects. The whole surface of the pond should be no more covered up with water-lilies than fine rocks should be completely masked with climbing vines. To explain to the reader which are the tender and which are the hardy kinds would be a lengthy task, and I must refer him to the nearest nurseryman who grows aquatics. Better not grow many tender plants, would be my advice to the ordmary amateur lawn-planter. ee oh te. The success of this treat- Loe . DO Srnenip or my stream certainly AN ARRANGEMENT OF WATERGLILIES affords me great pleasure, Sadia and I need hardly say I am proud of it. It has, however, done more than that. One or two of my neighbors are, I see, already following my example, with promising results. In the village, also, near by, there is a fountain, and in the basin I have persuaded the authorities to arrange some boxes of lilies and lotuses renewed every year with purchased plants, and in place of a great iron Neptune, painted white and surrounded by white PONDS AND LAKES. 251 iron cherubs spouting little jets of water, a graceful spray effect has been introduced. Water-lilies and lotuses lend themselves charmingly to the decoration of fountain basins, especially if they are used in moderation and do not cover up more than a fair half of the entire surface of the water. Before closing this account of my experience in growing water-plants, I must refer to the introduction of water-lilies and lotuses in the parks of New York. Some four years since, a year or two after I became Superintendent of Parks, my mind was turned, as well as that of my assist- ants, to the subject of growing lilies in the Central and city parks. We knew they had been grown to a limited extent in Fairmount Park, Philadelphia, and conceived the idea of using them largely in New York. At first we bought a considerable number, say five hundred dollars’ worth, from Mr. Sturtevant, of Borden- town, N. J., the father of water-lily culture in America. For the last two years, however, we have bought little and propagated much, so that at present we have an abundance. We have tanks constructed in the green-houses, where, by means of high bottom-heat, we can grow the most tender aquatic plants. Our most ambitious, if not our earliest attempt, was the construction of a lily-pond. In Central Park we have nothing like the stream and pond effect on my own place, and we found that it would be neces. sary to treat our lakes in a larger and more expensive way. As a first essay we dug out a pond close by, and forming as it were part of, what is termed Conservatory Lake, just north of the gate at 72d Street and Fifth Avenue. The general shape of this pond was oval, with bo Or bo PONDS AND: LAKES. winding, irregular shores, bounded by a high bank on the east side and a great willow drooping over the north end. Rocks were disposed in the immediate banks, so as to suggest a natural formation rather than an artificial pond. The bottom, scarcely three feet deep, was cemented tight as a cup, and the water flowed gently in at one end and out at the other, and so through a basin into the ~ sewer. High- teen inches of soil was made rich with ma- nure and de- posited over the bottom. This soil was renewed more or: less. every year. Masses of flowering THE CENTRE OF THE FOUNTAIN, UNION SQUARE. shrubs and small trees, such as the hydrangea, Spirwa opulifolia, and purple beech and birch formed a background of foliage on the steep hillside sloping up to Fifth Avenue. The lotuses (1X. speciosum ) in this pond were disposed in a solid mass at the north end along the steepest banks. There the observer can look down and see them mirrored on the surface of the water in the most effective way. Masses of the large hardy white lily (.V. alba candidissima ), and the beautiful little white one (.V. pygmuea ), the size of a half dollar, the Cape Cod pink lily, and several other kinds grow permanently in the mud of the bottom. ‘Tender ones, like BETHESDA FOUNTAIN BASIN CENTRAL PARK. -° the blue and red varieties ( N. Devoniensis, N. Zanzi- barensis azurea and rosea), are planted in boxes filled with rich compost and removed to the park greenhouses every year. The season to enjoy this pond at its best is about ten o’clock in the morn- ing,—later than this the heat of the sun gradually closes 954 PONDS AND TEAL: many of the blossoms, and earlier than nine some of the kinds have not yet opened their flowers. A sight of this pond in August and early in September is worth a considerable jour- ney to see; and hardly less, effective are the lotuses and lily plantations in boxes to be seen in the great fountain-basin at the Terrace. . Yet probably more effective, and certainly more attrac- tive, on account of location, is the Union Square fountain, with its beautiful spray of water and vigorous water-plants, and in addition its outside collar of red alternanthera sward, planted with islands of geraniums. By electric hght im the evening, or in the early morning sunlight, the effect of these lily-pads and lotus-leaves bedewed with globules of water is magical. Half a dozen, in fact, about all the fountain- basins in down-town New York are treated in this manner, and at almost any time before midnight, scores of people are gathered about them enjoying the beauties of the lies and lotuses—nor, as the years go on, does the interest in them seem to flag. Indeed, among all decorations for architectural structures where a pool of water can be in- troduced, I believe there is nothing that can excel the lily and lotus. So confident am I of this, that I believe the time is not far distant when no fountain-basin will be considered completely equipped without them. In Central Park we have already begun to plant the shores extensively with them. At present this applies especially to the Pool at 100th Street and Eighth Avenue. There is a good deal of labor required in the preparation of rich soil on the shores, but we hope, nevertheless, in a few years to have our lakes as well stocked with lilies and lotuses as our fountain-basins. CHAPTER XIII. LAWN-PLANTING FOR SMALL PLACES. St) J aN Sy IG [ HE word home has a pleasant sound. Indeed, one of the best signs of the times is a growing regard for home adornment. Practical con- siderations of simple comfort and show have long received too ex- clusive attention; but as we settle down more and more into a mature nation, the pleasantness of home gains in importance. In other words, our homes are becoming more characteristic, because we are learning duly to esteem and study them. They picture more truly the mind of the occupant or owner, because the occupant or owner is becoming more truly their architect and creator. Doubtless fashion attracts many to this work, and makes vague enthusiasm the impelling motive, rather than love of art. But such motives or impulses are not alto- gether deplorable. Societies for the encouragement of decorative art flourish and grow strong. Hard times de- 255 256 LAWN-PLANTING velop latent talent that would have otherwise lain fallow ; and all things conspire to favor the advancement of home art. Then how home-like and refined and beautiful this work is making our houses! We may be very superficial nowadays,—very much inclined to run about the world; but surely our fathers, with all their domestic virtues, never had such lovely homes. Pretty devices in furniture, hangings, and a hundred simple things are noticeable every- where as the work of the ladies and gentlemen of the house. Native taste, genius, association, and instinctive unitation, all combine to develop the true home artist. Yet models we must have, and principles we must recog- nize, and this in spite of the fact that most excellent work is done without conscious application of principles. Query: Does not this unconscious application of principles partake of the nature of genius? Let it be what it may, however, ordinary mortals, in their artistic struggles, are greatly helped by a few practical rules. Confiding in this behef, we ask a similar interest in both principles and prac- tice of a definite, though not generally accepted, species of home art. We assert, in other words, that home art should not confine itself within doors, but should exert its influ- ence on the immediate neighborhood of the house. Some of the most delightful hours of home life are spent on the piazza or lawn. It is, moreover, a pleasant hospitality that offers attractions on the lawn to the passer-by. But the sovereign difficulty that stands in the way of good lawn- planting, and especially of good lawn-planting for small places, is a widespread ignorance of lawn-plants. Numer- ous streets and shops offer instructive lessons to the decor- POTD SMALE PLACES. 257 ator of the house and its contents. Hundreds of homes present tasteful examples of artistic work of many kinds. The study of lawn-planting, however, seems strangely neg- lected. Yet why isit? Are there no profitable examples to be found in parks or private grounds? And if there are, why do not people study them ? There are doubtless many who visit or communicate with such places, but how is it generally done? If they visit, they do it hastily and learn little. If they communi- eate, it is to ask about some plant which has struck their fancy. Whether it suits any position on their grounds they do not consider, and perhaps do not care. In like manner parks are looked over. They are but seldom studied. Now, if weare to have good work, the workman, or at least the deviser of the work, must know his mate- rial. You see, we are assuming that the lawn-planter of small places is also the owner. Seldom, indeed, can the owner of any small place afford a gardener of taste and knowledge; and the charm, moreover, of this peculiar spe- cies of work is its unprofessional character. It must have originality, variety, and no hackneyed forms, if it 1s to be of the best type. We hesitate, therefore, to fix anything like arbitrary rules, for fear they may be misunderstood and adhered to slavishly. Yet there are practical consider- ations and desirable artistic results growing out of the nature of plants that necessitate the use of rules. We cannot, of course, properly treat of the habits of plants in a short chapter, nor of all the rules that govern their employ- ment on small places. Nevertheless, it will be our endeavor to set forth intelligibly a few important suggestions concern- 17 258 LAWN-PLANTING. ing work of this kind. We may illustrate them also by ap- plying them to ordinary grounds. Lawn-planting for small places, as we propose it for popular employment, is a simple harmonious arrangement for the exhibition of individual plants. No one need fear, either, that the application of this principle will mar the effect of properly constructed masses. Broad mass effect cannot be obtained satisfactorily, and therefore individual beauties must be emphasized in the selection and disposition of plants. | One of the most important considerations in planting a lot in this case as well as in others, is the disposition of shrubbery and trees about the lawn in a way that will secure single, open spaces of turf. These groups of shrub- bery or trees should be arranged on the more prominent curves of walks about entrance gates, or the outer boundaries of the place. The object in view will be partly to secure the above-mentioned open spaces of turf, but chiefly to vary the effects and produce sudden, unexpected beautiful features. We should also seek to convey the idea that the path leads through the midst of a natural and picturesque group. These devices and the creation of miniature vistas will tend to give the place an appearance of greater size than is actually the case. It need scarcely be said that the curves of all the walks should be easy and flowing. Our sense of the graceful requires it, and practi- cal experience proves its correctness. A horse, when tak- ing the wagon directly to a given point without special guidance, always follows these long, easy curves. Indeed, the inexperienced driver is often bothered by the short curves of a circular road. Ly} SMALL HOME LAWN. 259 260 LAWN-PLANTING A comparatively general principle is always to employ rhododendrons, hardy azaleas, Japanese maples, and other choice dwarf evergreen and deciduous shrubs directly about the house or on the walks near by. About the outskirts of the lawn, the entrance gates, and junction of paths, may be massed the larger-growing shrubbery and trees, if your door-yard is large enough to have any. They will serve to frame in the landscape, or to shut out undesirable views. We refer, of course, to medium-sized places of an acre or less. Within the skirting plantations of such places, few, if any, trees of large size should be used. Indeed, two or three elms, oaks, or lindens will come in time to occupy large sections of what should be entirely open space. Trees in great number, moreover, tend to make the plot look small and monotonous and the turf moss-grown and sparse. A few second-class trees, here and there, if the place is large enough, relieve and enrich the lawn without interfering with the effect of larger shrubbery. Large trees may be allowed at intervals on the extreme corners and outer boundaries, should the place be say half an acre in extent, to frame in the picture and diversify the contours and sky-line of ex- terior shrub groups. Sanitary conditions likewise demand a similar arrangement. The position of the house also requires study. If space and full effect are desired, and no local peculiarities bar, it should be placed on one side so as to mass in a single lawn as much land as possible. This will broaden and enlarge generally the effect of the place. All fences should be screened more or less with shrubbery or hedges, although the last, as generally used, are formal and therefore objec- FOR SMALL PLACES. 261 tionable. Furthermore, few, if any, architectural adornment, such as statues, vases, etc., should be allowed. They are pretentious, artificial, and not in keeping with a natural style of the best landscape gardening. In the highly artificial gardenesque or geometric style they have, of course, their place, but of this we do not speak, as it is ill fitted for small rural homes. Summer-houses, gates and arbors, rockwork and waterfalls (the last two in secluded nooks, if at all), must be employed in the places under consideration to give whatever variety is desired other than trees and grass. Another special point to be studied is the preservation of pleasing views, or vistas, in neighboring grounds. They may be framed in with attractive groups, which may at the same time plant out disagreeable, ungraceful objects. —Pro- vide, at least, one open range or view throughout the greatest depth of the lot, but not exactly through the centre line. A line, for instance, from the middle of the end adjoining the public road to the extreme corner in the rear is more desirable than several short vistas. This device tends greatly to increase the sense of novelty and distance, and lessens any apparent stiffness. If the division fence must be kept up between adjoining lots, and no common lawn used, this fence should be also adorned with deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. These may be planted, if desired, at intervals to retain attractive glimpses and vistas as above suggested. In all groups which define boundaries of the place, special care should be taken to avoid uniform horizon lines. Vary them with a few spire-like trees and shrubs bo o> bo LAWN-PLANTING now and then—birches and cypresses, Zamari« Indica and Hibiscus Syriacus,—which should also mark informally the corners of the lot, and complete, as it were, the frame of the picture. What we mean by informally is an avoid- ance of regular intervals or geometric arrangement. As a rule, also, never plant a large, dark evergreen 1n front of, and mixed with, a lot of brilliant, light-colored, de- ciduous trees, for thus planted it will dwarf and weaken the effect of the latter. On some lawns of good size, however, a few massive dark evergreens may be used with effect in the extreme and, if possible, northwest corner of the lot. They will protect and give character to the place, and heighten the effect of the deciduous trees. A striking contrast may be obtained by interspersing a few white birches among, and in front of, these evergreens. They will serve, in this case, to brighten the picture both winter and summer,-—though usually I prefer not to mix ever- green and deciduous trees. This harmonious and contrast- ing disposition of color requires careful study, and even perhaps a natural gift. For instance, it is better to intro- duce gay, bright colors in well-judged proportions. A few bright flowers of deep red, blue, or yellow, will have a better effect dispersed here and there about the lawns than in one great mass. Introduce them, so that by means of their different natures there will be always during the season a few gay points in the picture. The turf borders of walks must present a true curve, and both sides be on a level. Their height should not be more than two inches or less than one. Great depth of border utterly destroys the effect of a walk. HOR SMALL PLA CES. 263 Lawns generally —for we will say this much of grading —should never be reduced to a perfect level. They should be raised in the centre, or the sur- face be given the appearance of a hol- low. Theside lawn should generally as- sume a more or less slight incline tow- ard the division fence. The rear lawn, if there is any of considerable relative size, should be graded, if pos- Front Door SCALBHIOR y= sible,in like manner with the front. Of course, special con- ditions will vary Road-way any such rules. Their simple ob- ject is to increase —t# the variety, and —¢g ——__—_«3 jj Se thereby produce a Public foad SUGGESTIONS FOR LAWN-PLANTING. ‘ more pleasing and to) 1, LARGE LAWN TREES ; 2; TREES OF MODERATE GROWTHS ; 3, DECIDUOUS SHRUBS OF MODERATE GROWTHS ; 4, RARE AND DWARF DECIDUOUS AND All EVERGREEN SHRUBS 3; 7, EVERGREEN TREES. LARGE SHRUBS EIGHT FEET APART, SMALL SHRUBS FOUR FEET APART ,— HEDGE PLANTS TWO FEET APART. RULES TO BE VARIED SOMEWHAT, ACCORDING TO THE NATURE OF GMs, WMLORKEOV ET, qe rianr use. natural effect. gives the place a larger and more picturesque appear- ance. In offering these few principles of an art capable of 264 LAWN-PLANTING producing so many diversified effects, I have endeavored to be sufficiently intelligible to secure their easy application. My language, however, may necessarily lack sometimes *. clearness and picturesque force. I therefore present a design which fairly illustrates the simpler forms of lawn-planting as it should be exercised on small lots. The first point that has been, and must always be, care- fully studied is the location of the house in such manner as to keep as much of the lawn together as possible. Here the house is placed as it should be, near one side. If feasible, it should also be on the north or west of the lot, thereby securing the better protection for shrubs and flowers. Immediately about the house may be gathered singly, or in groups, rare and choice deciduous and evergreen shrub- bery, such as hydrangeas, hardy azaleas, Japanese maples, and the many beautiful dwarf conifers. These should be so arranged as to produce the most varied and favorable effect of color and form of which the plants are capable. It is usually necessary to thus retain only low-growing plants close to the house, for in this way only can the full archi- tectural effect of the structure be secured. The exquisite and delicate attractions of choice plants demand also a post- tion near the house where they can be easily seen. Any curve of the paths nearly adjoining a building may be thus ornamented, for the small size of the plants will leave all views and vistas as seen from the house unobstructed,— quite as important a point to be looked after as the proper exhibition of the architectural effect of the house. It will be therefore noticed that even the less immediate neighbor- hood of the house is left unplanted with large-sized shrubs or even second-class trees. The main feature of the place HOR SMALE PEACES. %65 must evidently be the house, and therefore in devising prominent vistas and near or distant views we must take our stand at or not far from this point. Minor standpoints may of course be taken when some special effect is desired. Failure to contrive the landscape grouping from these established standpoints often weakens if it does not spoil lawn-planting, which is otherwise good and effective. The curves of the walks or foot-paths are long and easy, reaching their destination im a natural and pleasing manner. All the junctions of paths and the main curves are planted with shrubbery in an irregular and informal manner. Furthermore, they are usually arranged with a view to suggesting the idea that the path is winding through single masses of flowers. It 1s not proposed in this plan to reserve any space for a vegetable garden, not only for want of room, but because it is notorious that vegetables thus grown are very expensive and troublesome. If exercise in gardening pursuits is desired, the same amount and a similar kind of work may be had in the culture of trees and shrubs as in that of vegetables with more generally satisfactory results. All necessary objects, not interesting in a picturesque way, such as drying-ground, entrance to the rear of buildings, tool-sheds, ete., should be shut out with deciduous shrubs. The front of these hedges or belts of shrubbery may be diversified by planting here and there occasional choice specimens. The extreme end of the grounds may be also entered, if desired, by a path which should wind among shrubbery in somewhat obscure fashion, and come out suddenly on the lawn. The approach or entrance to the house is, in this case, somewhat formal and straight, for the sake of 266 LAWN-PLANTING convenience, which must at times overrule considerations of beauty. It is well planted with shrubbery, however, to relieve all stiffness and vary the straight line. This system also introduces the pleasant element of surprise, as the full effect of the lawn is only presented after the place has been fairly entered. Flowing, graceful lines, with one exception, are retained everywhere, especially in the vistas that extend off to the full depth of the lot. On the most extended side, the vista takes a slanting direction across a croquet-ground, reached by a winding path and fronted by a summer-house in the extreme corner. This simple, imexpensive rustic structure—shown in the lawn-planting study—looks out toward the house over the croquet-ground, down the most attractive vista of the place. About it should climb vines, honeysuckles, etc., and some flowering shrubs. The entire feature is finely crowned and perfected by associat- ing with it aslender, drooping, cut-leaved birch, with tender gray or light-green foliage and gleaming white bark. It will thus form one of the corner posts, or prominent points that define the outline of the picture, and, at the same time, constitute a most interesting and picturesque termination for a walk. One such feature is almost encugh for a small place. Architecture should be confined, as a rule, to the house structure, and the lawn devoted to plants. Even rockwork, except in peculiar spots, has hardly a place on any small lawn, for reasons that should be obvious. What- ever portion of the summer-house appears from among the vines and surrounding foliage is intended to show a rustic, eraceful, and solid structure. Simple rustic seats may, of course, be erected in suitable positions, but should not be made architecturally prominent. As a rule, however, chairs may be carried from the porch or veranda to any spot on so small a place. The planting on the walks directly fronting the summer-house should be made specially attractive by the employment of choice and dwarf trees and shrubs. The simple design of using a summer-house at all, has been to increase, within safe limits, the pictur- esque effect of the place, and to lend — that portion of the scene a cosey, home- like aspect. Indeed, we have sought to give the entire place a similar natural appearance. Good lawn- planting should make it look, not as if it had been constructed in the ordinary sense of the term, bitteas) 1 at had : grown there, out of the special needs of the plants and of those expect- ing toenjoy them. Please note that we make most prominent the necessities of the plant. They must receive first atten- A STUDY FOR LAWN-PLANTING. tion, when the best effects will follow in due course. Landscape archi- tects are, perhaps, Hable to fall into the habit of regard- ing plants as they would bricks or stones. An edifice of landscape architecture cannot be erected exactly as one bo > LAWN-PLANTING chooses. Plants have their freaks and peculiarities in different positions, which even practical experience can scarcely foresee. Beware of using on small places large-growing trees, and even on the outer boundary employ them sparsely. All such trees, like the Norway spruce or white pine, become ina few years, independent of their crowding mass, more or less unsightly for limited inclosures and necessarily close inspection. There should be an exact proportion between the size of a place and the eventual size Say in ten years— of all plants used for ornamenting it. For this reason, the rapid-growing, deciduous shrubs, with their wonderful variety of foliage and flowers and their moderate growth, are well adapted for small places. They not only attain moderate size, but can be duly restrained for many years by pruning. There are, also, many beautiful dwarf ever- green trees and shrubs well suited for lawn-planting on a small scale. Indeed, such plants may be kept, by pruning both root and branches intelligently, within a height of five feet for near a score of years. It seems almost absurd to say that ornamental plants in their entire variety and special aptitudes for lawn-planting should be carefully studied by the lawn-planter. Never- theless, many so-called experts seem to lose sight of the fact. With knowledge, however, and a cultivated taste, most delightful results can be obtained on a small lot by an outlay ranging from one hundred dollars to three hundred dollars, depending on the amount of choice plants used. Grading and fences are considerations governed by special conditions, and cannot, therefore, be taken into HOR SIAL PLACES. 269 a general and typical estimate. This hardly seems an extravagant sum to devote to the exterior adornment of a home that has probably cost at least $4,000 for the building, and $2,000 more for a simple and tasteful fur- nishing. ‘The general impression is widely spread abroad that the accomplishment of artistic effects in lawn-planting on small places, if possible at all, must be expensive and elaborate. Perhaps the idea comes from the fact that our parks and grand show places afford almost the only in- stances of artistic lawn-planting, and they, of course, are expensive. The lawn-planting efforts, moreover, of the jobbing gardener or owner of the place, are generally crude and based on no settled principles of art. It is this, per- haps, that gaims credence for the belief that landscape gardening, as a picturesque art, is not only expensive, but does not suit small places. People may not state such ideas definitely to themselves; but they clearly demon- strate, by practice, a conscious or unconscious belief in their truth. It has been, therefore, our desire to enunciate a few simple and important considerations of an art too much neglected, and to exemplify them practically from a plan intended for execution in a simple and inexpensive manner. There are necessarily many features and details, not here treated, that may be introduced on small places with much effect and without transgressing any fundamental rules of lawn-planting. We desire, however, to utter, before con- cluding, yet another warning against attempting too much when once we assume the artistic standpoint. Care for the proper exhibition and health of the plants themselves must 270 LAWN-PLANTING. be, after all, the prime consideration, in pursuance of which we cannot go far astray. As I have already intimated, the rural adornment of the exterior of homes may rightfully demand and is receiv- ing increased attention. It is improvement of taste in the same line, as that encouraged for the decoration of interiors, in that they both form important elements of home life. Unfortunately, many people have a way of regarding such work as requiring greater skill than is actually the case. It is really less difficult and expensive in proportion to the results obtained than most other forms of home art. CHAPTER VXIV. CUP YO uP ACK Ss. O write of parks is to enter a field Ny which is almost unlimited in ex- tent. It has come now to the pass that every town and city of importance in Europe and America must have its park. It is the fashion. Whether the fashion is always well wrought out, is another thing. Unenlightened town authorities cannot always be depended on to employ competent talent, and to adopt a wise and comprehensive scheme of operations. Yet, after all, parks are but larger door-yards or lawns, —or rather, in many cases, a series of them. The landscape- gardening lore applied to them is essentially the same as that employed in constructing the most modest home grounds. There is nothing really different in the general theory of the landscape gardening of parks from that of ordinary grounds. The apparent difference simply lies in the special application to some particular individual undertaking. 271 272 CLT VE PALES: In actual practice, one park must, of course, be treated differently from other parks; but the lessons acquired by considering one piece of work of this kind, must always be helpful in carrying on other park-work. In order, therefore, not to weary the reader with the enunciation of abstract principles, and detailing instructions that do not always really instruct, | am going to ask atten- tion for a few moments to what I consider the best well advanced example of this kind of landscape gardening in America, namely, Central Park, New York City. In considering Central Park, I beg leave to first intro- duce a few lines from the pen of Mr. Calvert Vaux, one of the originators of the essential artistic effect of the park. “The principal defect of the ground originally appro- priated to Central Park was that it offered very few com- paratively level tracts of sufficient area to make a definite meadow-like impression on the eye. The ground is, for the most part, broken, undulating, picturesque, and rocky ; and this is, confessedly, a desirable quality for a park site to possess, because it is a comparatively rare one. Most of the large parks—such as Hyde Park in London, the Bois de Boulogne in Paris, and the Phoenix Park in Dublin—are manifestly lacking in variety of natural surface ; and every effort that art can make has to be resorted to for the pur- pose of relieving at intervals the general monotony of ground-line, which, in these parks, is the normal condition of things. Under such circumstances, it is evident that much can be done by planting trees of high and low growth, in such relation to each other that the sky-line will be agreeably diversified, while the level of the soil is but CLIVE PALL. 273 slightly varied. Nature works on so large a scale that it is rarely practicable to construct artificial emimences of suffi- cient magnitude to be really impressive. It has been done at the Pare du Chaumont, in Paris, quite effectively ; but this is a rare example. “Tt may be remarked, in this connection, that the sense of quiet repose ministered to by a large lawn surface is not satisfied by picturesque ground, however vigorously it may be planted; and, as the need for quiet repose in this work- a-day world is more constant than the need for vigorous stimulus, a lack of pastoral, meadow-like stretches of lawn in any large public park will always be felt by the habitual visitor to be a serious disadvantage.” Originally, a place for a large park was chosen along the East River, on the site of what was known as Jones Wood. This was not thought to be central enough, and, in consequence, Central Park was located within its present boundaries, with the exception that, for many years, its extent to the north only reached the neighborhood of 106th Street. In 1857, the work of constructing Central Park was fairly undertaken, with Mr. Andrew H. Green the virtual head of the commission of eleven members appointed by . the State, and not as a part of the Tweed charter of the city. A topographical survey of the entire territory was first made, and then competitive plans, about thirty in number, were secured. The successful competitors were Messrs. Olmsted & Vaux. From that time until the present, the work of construction went steadily on, with some few ex- 18 274 CHEN SPAT GS: ceptions, along the lines laid down in the original plans, nearly all being executed during the first twelve years. Messrs. Olmsted & Vaux together, or either one alone, supervised this work, for the most part ; and the confidence of the municipality having been won by Mr. Green, he was enabled for nearly thirteen consecutive years to successfully manage the finances and administration of this vast and complex civic enterprise. I feel, therefore, that 1 may be said with truth that Central Park could hardly have been built as it is to-day without the devoted interest, high ad- ministrative ability and artistic discernment displayed by the Hon. Andrew H. Green, at all stages of its develop- ment. In order to secure some general idea of the treatment of Central Park, we will consider for a few moments its arrangement as it appears on the map. It is an awkward territory to treat, narrow and long, with about one hundred and fifty acres of Croton Reservoir occupying nearly the entire centre, from 85th to 97th Street. The clearly defined motive of the park is to secure a pleasant secluded country strolling ground directly in the heart of New York City. Perhaps the most difficult part of the park to design was the road system. It was, as all roads and walks are, a necessary feature, that would not in any case add to the beauty of the park. But opportunity for viewing the park must be secured, and so roads and walks were laid out on such lines as would exhibit the park best and mar it the least. The main entrance, at Fifth Avenue and 59th Street, with its great after addition of the Plaza, was made at the corner of the park, extending in at an angle. This is always *ALIO MYOA MSN “MYVd IWHYLN3SO “TIVW SHL Sle ERE epee: BGore eas ESSE ET 276 CITY PARES, an effective way to enter a park. It makes the region seem larger and more varied in effect. About half a mile along this drive, sixty feet wide, we come to the most important semi-artificial effect of Central Park, the Mall. It is a formal planted open-air cathedral of elms, showing long vistas of natural Gothic arches, with a wide walk in the centre and grass alleys on either side. The semi-artificial effect is relieved by irregular masses of trees planted all around the “cathedral of trees,” thus shading off and merging the formal effect into the picturesque and natural one peculiar to the remainder of the park. The Mall is the most frequented part of the park. Beneath its noble arches people linger to enjoy the cool of morning or evening, or gather on bright afternoons in thousands to enjoy the music of a band occupying a stand near the north end. The Mall is about a quarter of a mile long, and at the extreme north end the cathedral of trees culminates in the Terrace, which is the most elaborate and manifestly architectural effect in the park. A broad drive passes across the north end of the Mail, and along its entire width extends a broad high Nova Scotia sandstone balustrade, elaborately decorated with carved fruits, animals, and birds. Broad stone steps lead under this drive from the Mall itself; and from the north side of the drive two other sets of steps, bordered with carved balustrades illustrating the seasons, go down to a great Plaza, ornamented by the Bethesda Fountain. Beyond is the Lake, and still beyond, the woods of the Ramble that look illimitable. The view on an autumn day from the drive across the Plaza and fountain and across the Lake to CITY PARKS. 277 the Ramble, where the woods are flushed with crimson and gold, is something to be treasured in the memory above all other scenes of the park. To the east of the Mall, across the East Drive, is the Children’s and Nurses’ Lawn, extending from 72d Street, along Fifth Avenue to the gate at 67th Street. This place reminds one of an English lawn. It is a bit of five or six acres of fine turf, unbroken except by a few scattered shade trees of large size. Hach tree is a fine specimen. There are horse-chestnuts and some excellent American beeches, oaks, tulip-trees, maples, elms, purple beeches, liquidambars, ete. Under these trees and over the greensward play through- out the months of May and June, and occasionally later, hundreds of children both rich and poor. On a Saturday afternoon in May you will see scores of May-parties and hundreds of children covering every part of this lawn. The bright ribbons, the white dresses, and the greensward and trees, and above all, the happy faces, make a picture to gladden the heart of man. The attraction of the picture is increased when we consider that many of these children come from the great tenement-houses of the east side of town, and from some of the most crowded regions of the civilized world. To the west of the Mall is another great lawn or meadow called the Green. Here base-ball is played on clear days, when the grass is dry, and under the shade of the bordering trees gather picnics. This meadow has no tree or shrub on its surface except on its extreme borders. It extends over to the West Drive, and is contrived, in connection with 278 CTY PARES: shrubbery and trees, as a western background, so as to give the idea of a larger area than really exists. There are only four open grass spaces or meadows of any size in Central Park; and as the main repose and highest enjoyment of the park reside chiefly in these spots, let the public beware of the intrusion of all glittering, discordant shows, military bodies, world’s fairs, menageries, or race-courses. It is the poor who enjoy these places above all people—it is the children of the poor, and the mothers. We must not, there- fore, spoil their heritage. The people should always treasure these open grass spaces of their parks. They are invaluable. The Lower Meadow, near Seventh Avenue and 59th Street, 1s specially attractive. It has a great rock jutting out in it, and to the north at a higher level extends the seemingly large expanse of green. Round about run footpaths, bridle-paths, and drives, and at one corner of it is the children’s play-ground, consisting of a great merry-go- round and the Kinderberg summer-house, one hundred feet in diameter. On fine days in May and June this charming meadow is literally covered with playing children, thus fulfillmg the most important functions of a park in a densely crowded city. Beyond these two meadows is the West Drive, sixty feet in width. In the neighborhood of 72d Street it passes on one side the Mineral Springs, backed by picturesque vine-covered rocks, and on the other by a lawn planted with fine shade trees—beeches, maples, elms, and, above all, several large specimens of Chinese magnolias. ( Magnolia conspicua ). "ALIO WHOA MAN ‘MYVd WWHYLNSO ‘S0dIua YVSN ‘GNVISI SHL 6Lz 280 CIIY PARIS: Then the road strikes the Lake, looking on one side into a pool of rock-bordered water, with a spanning stone bridge at 77th Street; on the other side, over a broad view of lovely lake surface. This view is bordered with the sweeping branches of the wooded shores of the Ramble, and emphasized in the distance by a sandy beach and a point of foliage crowned by two great Lombardy poplars. There is a stone seat on the bridge close to 77th Street, where one can look over the shining surface of the Lake to the distant Lombardy poplars and possibly conclude that this is the most charming bit of landscape in the park. At this point, however, the visitor is tempted away from the Drive into the Ramble, which must be considered as an episode needing special description. This quaint bit of wild-wood is chiefly made ground, and yet not in the least artificial-looking, for it is contrived quite simply out of the original simple and natural conditions, intricate as its paths and undulations may appear. It is identical in scale with what might readily be an ordinary country-place with the Belvidere as the mansion. In front of the mansion is a fine central grass plat, and beyond wind paths up and down and across a stream, along the lake shore, or over great masses of rock down into a veritable gloomy cave. There are fine weeping beeches, azaleas, rhododendrons and plenty of perennial plants and shrubs blooming throughout the season. It is, in a word, a picturesque wild-wood nook, where one is hid- den from and entirely forgets the city. An experiment like this might be hazardous, if the boundaries of the Ramble were not clearly defined by nature, because it does not "ALIO MYOA MAN SAYVd IWYLNSO “SMV SHL NO ONIGNVT SAVO SHL 1Qz 282 CTIY PARKES: produce the ample, open-air lawn effect with reasonable shade, that should be the initial requirement in any city park. Passing up the West Drive between two small hollow lawns ornamented with some fine specimens of evergreen, Pinus excelsa (Bhotan pine), and stone pines and hemlocks near 82d Street and Eighth Avenue, a loop drive leads up to a small plateau called The Concourse, where the eye wanders over miles of city houses, out to the Hudson in the distance. Here are many specimen evergreens of con- siderable excellence, creeping junipers, retinosporas, stone pines (Pinus cembra), white pines in groves, silver firs of several excellent species and varieties, Oriental spruces, Atlas cedars, mugho pines, and some fine specimens of the evergreen thorn ( Cotoneaster ov Crategus pyracantha ), with its shining small leaves and orange-red berries in autumn. Beyond this portion of the park, towards the 85th Street transverse road, are two or three other small lawns on either side of the Drive. Throughout these lawns, since we left 72d Street, will be noticed along the West Drive as far as 110th Street quantities of evergreens. The West Drive was originally arranged for a winter as well as a summer resort, and is altogether the most attractive side of the park. Fashion has decreed, however, that the grand parade of carriages must go up and down the east side of the park. Having reached the 85th Street transverse road, I will stop a moment and explain these peculiar features of the park. They are sunken roads extending from Fifth to Eighth Avenue, and there are four of them,—viz., at 65th, "ALIO MYOA MAN SMYVd IWYLNSO ‘MOGV3SN HLYON £gz Te 284 CITY PARKS: 79th, 85th and 97th streets. Completely screened with trees and shrubs and seven-feet walls, spanned with fre- quent bridges, these driveways afford abundant convenience for traffic across the park. ; On the 85th Street transverse road are situated the stables and workshops of the Department, completely hid- den away. Tere also is the entrance to the two great Cro- ton reservoirs. They occupy one hundred and _ fifty-four acres of the heart of Central Park. There is little of interest comparatively to be found in the park along the reservoirs. They block up and absorb almost the entire park for the distance they extend. When we reach, however, the north end of the park, clear of the reservoir, we come upon more charming meadow views. The first is a glade of a few acres seen beneath the branches of noble pin-oaks, just before we reach the 97th Street transverse road. Here lawn-tennis is played, and the disposition of the trees is such that one can hardly believe it other than a genuine woodland nook. The scene is a thoroughly natural one, and far more park-like than anything in the Ramble. Crossing over the 97th Street transverse road, and leav- ing with regret the grove of pin-oaks and the forest glade, we come to the great North Meadow of the park. It is a wonderful effect. Only nineteen acres, and apparently ex- tending miles. The illustration gives a fair idea of it, but only as a picture can. The sheen of the grass, the varied tints of the foliage sweeping the turf to the left, the low-lying hillocks crowned with large forest trees, the great boulders entirely exposed or only half submerged, the meadow be- *“ALIO MYOA MAN 'MYVd AVYLNSO SSNNSAV HLNSAAS GNV LSaauls HLOlL YVAN HOOUY ONISNVHYSAO 2gz% SET 3S 286 GIT Y PARES, yond running back to seemingly unknown distances,—who will picture it truly? There is dignity, there is breadth, repose, restfulness, and yet a sense of isolation that is not absolute. It is genuine park scenery that the eye is tempted to linger on and the foot to walk on, and presents, if viewed as a single feature, one of the best examples we have of good park-work, In May the bright costumes of numerous tennis players enliven its surface and attract many interested spectators. But to me it is more attractive when it hes in unbroken rest in the shimmering atmosphere of an autumn day with the red and gold of the maples and hickories framing and g brightening its greensward. Leaving the large suggestion of breadth and distance of the North Meadow, we pass up the West Drive to the Mighlands of the park. As we cross the bridge spanning the stream which flows out of the pool of water near Eighth Avenue and 100th Street, called the Loch, we look in au- tumn on a splendid hillside of blood-red sumach, and turn- ing the other way we see a rock-bordered stream winding =~ along a forest-covered hillside. It is all charmingly wild and picturesque. When we reach the top of the great hill crowned with native trees we turn up a wide drive to the Circle a small open space of road, greensward, and digni- fied elms. Turning back on our tracks and, after reaching the West Drive, passing down a steep winding way, we come to one of the finest single features of the park, a great overhanging rock. It is a picturesque object which is yet so natural- looking that it seems to have existed there always. Ona 287 A GORGE IN ‘CENTRAL PARK. 288 CLT PARAS: hot, dry day the gloom beneath it is literally “the shadow of a mighty rock in a thirsty land.” Near 110th Street we pass on the woody heights a great gorge filled with rhododendrons with a lily-pool at its base which produces a most natural and picturesque effect. Opposite the entrance from Sixth Avenue we come to the Harlem Meer, a fine sheet of water of some twelve acres. Here there are sandy, pebbly shores and plenty of steep,! rocky slopes coming down from the earthworks of old Fort Fish. Along the western shore of this lake at a some- what higher level our drive now passes. We have come to the fashionable East Drive again, and opposite the entrance at Sixth Avenue and 110th Street most of the carriages turn. The road winds at first picturesquely across a rock bridge over the stream that flows between the Pool and the Harlem Meer, and above this bridge appears a consider- able waterfall. The walk along the stream above and south of the waterfall can be seen from the bridge to be pictu- resque and attractive with its wooded hillsides and on the east a grassy lawn sloping down to its eastern border. Hay- ing reached the top of the hill we come to the site of the old Mount Saint Vincent Convent, afterwards a restaurant, and finally burnt down and replaced by the present build- ing.