Pe eeer es s i RAE BEATE wie aria ; “en : : : res. : Sarsiehstgteneteg—e prrarneneacy. sated “* ‘ tate A - - - : : - : eat sslubeheaparons en 7 . ; . . : : oe are : — ou : woreear Seaieey sare sereveval or Snr i Aer : Pb ~ ™ sores eae oe) eanetrg - svete tae be hehe opepey trerentee gewres tee actegeaeetprsvemereny #hyintytricksRabebvar ice pererecenrseeree PU Varalal pCoeprenerseneseys A ener he gene want Bote tee ererercrepecscouscees reeyerer tes valesprileraress eoctstpaeosstey fear e mete Agi ene ejtsterrere ily gly etter erie ene ere yw Copyright N° COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: Pus { \ LATE CABBAGE FROM SEED UNTIL HARVEST ALSO SEED RAISING BY E. N. REED Specialist in Late Cabbage and Cabbage Seed FIEST BDETTON NEW YORK JOHN WILEY & SONS, Inc. Lonpon: CHAPMAN & HALL, LimiTED 1917 Copyright, 1917 BY EK. N. REED MAY 19 1917 PRESS OF BRAUNWCRTH & CO. BOOK MANUFACTURERS BROOKLYN, N. Y. O©ciA467084 DEDICATION I HEREBY DEDICATE THIS WORK TO MY LOVING WIFE Cornelia Together here this life we live Its varied pathways trod, Forever our dearest hopes shall be Eternity with God. THe AvTuHor. PREFACE As time advances it becomes more and more apparent that each of our vegetable crops must have some special thought if we are to continue their successful culture. Each year some insect or plant disease seems to work havoe in some section of the country, or some unusual weather condition prevails which greatly reduces a full crop. Noxious weeds, improper rotation, poor seed or poor cultural methods, all lend a hand to hinder success. In the preparation of this book it has been the aim of the writer to discuss briefly some of the chief rights and wrongs, so that one may have success without costly experience. Life is too short to learn everything by experience, and manipulations are too expensive. The aim of our Agri- cultural schools and colleges to-day is to teach a man while he is young, to prepare him for his work so that he need not spend a large portion of his life experimenting before he begins to succeed. I have tried to weave into this work not only my own experience, but also the knowledge gained by the experi- mental work of our best colleges throughout the great cabbage belt, which takes in a large portion of Northern United States. vl PREFACE I, the writer, am a practical grower, not only of cab- bage, but also of seed. J am not a man with untried the- ories; in the past seven years I have not had a crop of cabbage cut less than twenty tons per acre. In 1916 The Department of Vegetable Gardening of Cornell University cut a portion of my field of cabbage which gave a yield of thirty tons and seventy pounds per acre. The piece of ground on which this cabbage grew was an ordinary field of a hill farm. I wish to thank the following for any material, photos or assistance which they have rendered me in the prep- aration of this book: Prof. A. E. Wilkinson, College of Agriculture, Depart- ment of Veg. Gardening, Ithaca, N. Y.; Prof. Chas. Chupp, College of Agriculture, Department of Plant Pathology, Ithaca, N. Y.; Prof. J. W. Wellington, of Geneva Exp. Station. Special bulletins upon various subjects from Vermont, Ohio, Washington, D. C., and New York have been noted. CONTENTS Med cosh) GPR COs Cee, io 2k RR en ie Ee oh keen een ies ge CHAPTER I Crop ROTATION 1 LSU CENTERS aap OE Oe Oe Rk ee A eee) RRR ct eran, SM le a en Eccivacrestsra can reUNaey ce cone dor GA hae 3 os ee es ek CHAPTER II CABBAGE SEED Be VU Tr PE Wdh te oS Soren erat VU eee rama ew HS tere dS 2. ize, Snape and. Vitality of Cabbage Seed... 22. 25...<.+5...5 See uPA IEG TG EOL IRV PIE cc ache Gp.Sos ole auiep ain ois oom CHAPTER III LocaTING AND Sow1nac A CABBAGE SEED BED , LARS Sach raalo 2's Il 5.21 na ie er eee ea ee Brseed Neu Metiuianiian rs Se. snl enue oda Gls a oad ready thle Amount of Seed Required for One Acre. .................... Wiens Cameame seen eyo ca dlls we Mii ieeraal all emeaing ho ties NAR A i. ho da Re bao oes . ‘Treatme Cabbage Seed for Disease :..!)..6 0... de... a ose dee i AOSD Maes MMU ete Re eh ne eat 22 fe acl aa Se NOOR WN xl vill CONTENTS bo mo Ne bo or WN & CHAPTER IV ScREENING pe ch (See OTe 21 [Sang ee a Rd at SUAS Wy Rae ee i a SepP ETC Oa IE NLR 2S 88, 5 aw sige lh oes SP eae Stace ee ee ee . Constructing a Cheesecloth Screen for a Seed Bed............ CHAPTER V Type or Sow Brest ADAPTED TO CABBAGE—FIELD PREPARATION Pe PMMTELO ATC Ka eT ASS eee yen Bets ay Cachet ds aS. hetcle oe cr ee e Preparing a eld tor,Cabbage.. o0 serch. ast fle ane dae ee ee Sig DUVET CPLR ena 2 oa ai Noe gare oe ee te RE ed ipa ner igen APES 8G CHAPTER VI FERTILIZATION . Method of Testing Field to Find what Fertilizer is Needed... . . Sowing Fertilizer Broadcast and Home Mixing of Fertilizer... . . Amount of Fertilizer Removed by One Ton of Cabbage. ...... CWE e SORT AO UALS ste. so wighcctlcis ks aehes aaaucs See ieee CHAPTER VII TRANSPLANTING FROM THE SEED BED TO THE FIELD +: Wei Gord amispol eid 2 8k 8: Ailes aoe anc sb2 se au aaa ite eee tac . Applying Nitrate of Soda to Hasten Seedlings................ 5 Fate cap Seed lin gig cs a2 ss ws ts hae ae he ees ee ae . Transplanting and Transplanting Machinery................. » eset ethine sO erro ee ey aoe eek ey niet eo a a. Costrot Pwo. Werese so oor ys eo eee ee ee » Hand Settinests 3 San a ws eres oe yee ee iene a. ‘Costof Two: A@ress 2! Se ee eee . Proper. Distance Apart to Set Cabbage: : 24.5.5 28. eee PAGE 22 23 25 29 30 32 Onrwhd CONAN WN He NOP WN FE CONTENTS CHAPTER VIII CULTIVATION AGES os C2) S11 aa 2) a aaa eee CHAPTER IX INsEcT ENEMIES RBCn eee iP aie rt re Neer end, Ae AGS aa RR ah cle She PRUNE GI ay ed 0 (sr) aly a i AG a ei ROAR) VIRREIN See ey or ee, 1 se oa aes nicer to MOE oe NE Cee ct SR ek Case dkct. 20% Gets tek whe Soma SEE AGL TE 8 leas ith! ek oa a CoP RE eee Ti ata Pee ee eTaN CIAO NV OME 55,65 04s hci af dg cha oP atin Woe. ale 4 acd ae eda MEME doe al Om ulhne WV OLMIS 56, 20s ies) bores o's, LE ly a ee Bp PME CH TMI ck Minh dictaws Sekt git AON ame Sipe ee aA et Pe-sncllee aatialtsts. 3.4.52. hs isPin le ee ded nae Abs eo ae ee CHAPTER X CABBAGE DISEASES Per see ber tor sl OOb aN Ols 1.25: Sita s+ kbiearce WS Pica thee as cael SEDI WHy OW Or IMIG, 2. Sy skate ooo « Gave @d!a Dy Seni dies wa PPPUADA TTS TRIUUCENUREN etch re Sint Sth Na, Sects ad A phates ice a RE Ok heats Sa CHAPTER XI HARVESTING CABBAGE AND ROUGHAGE pe nen:todaarvesh bate Cabbares soos lescerd oss bie acs o ble oad wats Me Esau eam MOU MOG. 2 ene. acters Seo od Ah ck be eo aie wd oa Bos we Ses Sg OLN Tay ok Be UT CRT § CGT Fe ay Oe ee, cu Sn oe ES G2) 52 A . Covering Heads in the Field to Prevent Freezing............. CUE EPCS) GOTT TCLS 2) 2 MM ee Co a (AG OL OPH are Ter ANGE... coins cass bw aes tee eh ee 1X X CONTENTS CHAPTER Sait STORAGE 1. Storing Cabbage Out of Doors 2. Storing Cabbage in a Building a Construction of iui ding...) 6-35 0 awe scat ae ie lane we 3. Soft Rot and Leaf Spot Affecting Cabbage in a Storage House... GCSOIR OU CK: ah rate b. Leaf Spot @; Le-re pe) (ein) NerkeX olraite «ete ta 1s) ee, 61s) a” ase vay lage ete. 6 el ‘6, je) Fw 8 ae le: fe" ule We we) «vinden ow le ile. (a) is} JelKelle)elnn Tolls a6 @: to) 6) [e101 6, 10, 6) lef, ecto jaye. e( elas). {ns fe! Te, 9) 8)\e) 6 Jeri, = 0) ce) Je 0) in a4 w) (omy (a) oo ey ae een CHARTER, oobi Late CABBAGE FOR THE DAIRY AND SHEEP I*ARMER . Feeding Value of Cabbage ie(aboaee LOK thensheep. a.tlacs teks ec. «seen sete tse atte oes . Tainting Milk by Feeding Cabbage . Feeding Frozen Cabbage 6) 6) pees eh im) oP teh te! vere) 18) o) a) 8, uc eh elm, (o) 0s 6) 1e). 0) Le eP ial (8, cole sie. s mwhdo re SB, aye) eae um w Ye) eet we fe) (s) (a. Keene) (0) (610,10) 1p, «| (6) 1@' 40) eifel (6) \e-he eel le CHARTER: Oy SEED RAISING 1. Immature-head Seed Production on NMature-neva Seed ProdmeuOms... o5)s0'.: sais ee oc ee eee Sy storing lature, Heads tor Seed. a... ./ht0. ok/a. S.No on oe ees A> Resettine seed: Heads im the Sprimg...:.:. i... 0.) vs sce eee 5. Fertilization and Cultivation of Seed Plants sijie) (6 © (6) e! vine \e\ ote, &) (e/u) 6) (eee) © (0) na(ey a) Ou elomen.s tO see One sOnCn Sl tre ee OC Os Ce Cl OCy Che) INTRODUCTION THE cabbage plant is a native of the coast of Europe. The original plant looks very different from what we now call our cabbage; it is merely a large broad-leaf plant which never forms a head. From this original plant have been developed a great many strains of both Early- and Late- maturing Cabbage, as well as Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Kohlrabi, Collards, and Kale, all of which are cultivated. There are also a number of wild plants which are related, such as Shepherd’s Purse, Pepper Grass, and Mustard. The mustard is very often cultivated, but it is such a noxious plant that it had better be classed with the weeds. Practically all the above mentioned plants belong to the cabbage family and they will all be subject to the same diseases. This fact plays a very important part, especially where mustard is getting such a foothold as it is in most of our older cultivated lands. Any of these weeds will keep a cabbage disease propagated from year to year. Of the various strains of cabbage, I wish to confine my work to those maturing in the fall of the year. The late-maturing strains have a different root system than the early ones; they have more of a spreading nature, that is, the pfant throws out longer roots in all directions, so xi xl INTRODUCTION that it feeds in quite a larger area of soil. The early cab- bage roots do not extend out very far, but are confined to more of a spherical area; this gives rise to different fer- tilization and cultivation methods. After the early crop of cabbage is out of the way, the next comes what most growers call “Domestics.” These require about the same cultural methods as do the late ones, which are called ‘“‘ Danish ” or sometimes “ Holland.” The Domestics are mostly consumed in a short time after they are harvested, or else they are sent to the sauer- kraut factories, where they are made into sauerkraut. Generally speaking, the acreage of Domestics 1s consider- ably less than that of Danish. Standard varieties in Do- mestics are: Warren, Flat Dutch, Succession, All Head Early, Glory, and Copenhagen Market. While some of the Danish are made into sauerkraut, most of them are consumed after the Domestics are out of the way and before southern cabbage comes on the -market in the spring. A large portion of the Danish have to be stored by methods which will be described later on in this book. In the Danish class there are two shapes of heads, as well as in the Domestics, only with the Domestics one can find a very much flatter head than in the Danish. As arule there are no harder cabbage than the Danish Ball Head, and those with a flattish-topped head which have a peaked base. Fig. 1. The Red cabbage belongs in the Danish group, as their ripening and habits are about the same. As a usual thing the red ones are more tender-fleshed, therefore they will INTRODUCTION Xlll not keep as long and are more liable to crack open before harvest. Most of the reds are sold where they will be used on lunch counters, in restaurants, or where a fancy dish is desired. As a rule they do not yield over two-thirds Fic. 1—Types of Danish Cabbage. as much as either Domestic or Danish, nor do they keep as well. The Danish cabbage is often spoken of by many as not being as palatable, and as more fibrous or tough than the earlier sorts. While this is true to a certain extent, a large portion of the trouble lies in a poor strain, improper fertilization, or cultural methods. If a grower who is breeding up a strain will select away from such qualities, his cabbage will be just as tender and sweet as any. LATE CABBAGE FROM SEED UNTIL HARVEST CHAPTER I CROP ROTATION Ir we are to compete successfully with others in crop production in these days we must study the fertility condi- tion of our soil, as well as the crop we expect to grow; this brings us to crop rotation. We should study crop rotation for two reasons: first, from the standpoint of keeping up soil fertility; the chief way to do this is to keep up the supply of humus or organic matter. Second, from the standpoint of disease prevention. Before one takes any steps toward growing a crop the rotation question should be thoroughly in mind; this is especially true with the cabbage crop. This crop of all crops needs as wide a rotation as possible, or in other words as long a period as possible should elapse before another crop of the same kind is planted upon that field. If cabbage is planted year after year, or even every other year upon the same field, club root will develop. Even though club root 1 2 LATE CABBAGE does not develop the crop will not yield as well as though you had used ground upon which no cruciferous crop had been grown for four to six years. This changing of crops from one field to another gives the chance to keep up the needed supply of humus in the soil, and right here let me say that few other crops exhaust soil fertility any faster than does the cabbage. HUMUS Humus is the substance that results from the decay of plant or animal material in the soil. The soil water passing through humus derives power to leach out the mineral ele- ments which are essential to plant growth. The more humus in the soil the stronger will be the soil water and the more leaching power it will have. When a humus-forming substance decays to form humus, there are fertilizing elements released from the substances which also aid plant growth. For example, when you plow under a piece of sod ground, decay of the roots takes place and there is a quantity of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash liberated, all of which are plant foods. The soil water passing through the decayed roots derives power to leach out mineral elements in the soil which are not available to a plant and thus make them available. KINDS OF ROTATION It is always best for a man to follow some definite rota- tion of crops. The rotation I have followed very success- fully in bringing up a run-down farm is what is known as a three-year rotation. Let me trace a field for three years, CROP ROTATION 3 then you will exactly understand. First year grain or canning-factory peas seeded with timothy and clover. Second year, clover meadow. ‘Third year, plow the field and plant corn, potatoes or cabbage. “ My,” but you may say, “that makes a lot of plowing and just look at the grass seed expenses.”” I wish to reply by saying you cannot add humus to your soil more cheaply than by turning in a good clover sod every third year. If your clover cuts 3 tons of hay per acre, then you have left in your soil roots fertilizer equal in value to 15 tons of stable manure. What will this cost in comparison with a four-year rota- tion? An extra plowing once in six years or every other complete rotation. The same will be true of the grass-seed expense. The extra plowing per acre once in six years costs about $3.00, the grass-seed per acre (4 quarts of timothy and 8 quarts of clover) is valued at $3.50, making a total of $6.50 for two complete rotations, or $3.25 for each rotation. We have a clover sod every third year valued at $30 per acre. In a four-year rotation we have a timothy sod every fourth year, valued at one-half as much as the clover sod or $15 per acre. You can readily see that the value of the timothy sod for one year is $3.75 and for three years it is $11.25. Now take the value of the clover sod for the three-year rotation, which is $30, and subtract the extra cost of plowing and grass seed, caused by using a three- year rotation, which is $3.25, and you have the net value of the clover sod or $26.75. Subtract from this the value of the timothy for three years, which was $11.25, and asa result you have a net gain in favor of the three-year rotation of $15.50; in other words if you will follow a three-year rota- LATE CABBAGE ‘goIsTep nq Mois Buryjou st 1aA0[I poyovoo oy} O1OYM Ploy oy} UL OB suvok YYSIY “UOTYwIOI IvaA-oIY} B BuLMOT[OJ Aq pourte}qo s}[Nsoy—~Z ‘OI * é CROP ROTATION 5 tion you can add plant food to your soil per acre to the value of $5.163 cents annually. Norr.—Plowing figured at $3 per acre, manure at $2 per ton, clover seed at $12 per bushel, and timothy at #4 per bushel. I always think it pays to put timothy with clover when seeding, because there are some spots in almost every farm where one does not get a desired stand of clover every year. The timothy will come on and make a stand of grass and also furnish roots to be plowed under. The crops on a four-year rotation will be about as follows: First year, grain or canning-factory peas; second year, clover hay; third year, timothy hay; fourth year, some cultivated crop—cabbage, corn, potatoes or beans. You might have a five-year rotation, having three years of hay, I think about the only case that this would be practical would be when alfalfa came in as the three years of hay. It seldom happens that a man will use over one-half of his sod ground that he plows for a cabbage crop. You will readily see that this gives a chance to avoid putting cab- bage on the same field only once in six years, or if he is using a four-year rotation only once in eight years. CHAPTER II CABBAGE SEED WHERE GROWN AFTER one has decided to grow cabbage, the question of seed at once presents itself. Where is cabbage seed grown? We always used to think that most of the late cabbage seed came from the old country, but in late years this country is producing a great deal of the seed used. It has been found that native seed is far superior to that which is imported. Long Island, Oregon and Michigan, I believe, now pro- duce a large share of the native-grown seed. The reason these three parts of the country and not the cabbage belt in general are growing seed is because these special sections have a climate adapted to wintering the plants out of doors with very little extra labor. Where sections have produced cabbage and cabbage seed so continuously as those in the old country, it is no wonder that strains begin to weaken and diseased seed is obtained when purchased from that source. I wish right here to relate a little instance which proved very conclusively to the cabbage growers of this country the difference in hardiness between native-grown seed and that which is imported. I was very much pleased to have the honor of breeding and growing the native seed. 6 CABBAGE SEED ri One of our best farmers set two acres of cabbage from seed which was imported; he also set two more acres beside them in the same field from seed I furnished him. The soil on this four-acre field was all treated alike and had been for years past. The seed from each source was treated with a solution of corrosive sublimate to kill dis- ease which often is carried on cabbage seed. For some time this four-acre field looked to be the banner field of the county, but about the time the cabbage com- menced to head, those plants from the imported seed began to show an occasional brown leaf. In a few weeks’ time the whole two acres were worthless,—they had con- tracted the black rot,—while the two acres from native-grown seed were as healthy and strong as could be asked for. To my knowledge there was not a diseased head found among the plants grown from native seed. SIZE, SHAPE AND VITALITY OF CABBAGE SEED Cabbage seed is a little larger than the ordinary yellow mustard seed, although the various strains differ in size. It is usually a little shriveled when dry. By this I mean that it is not exactly round and smooth like a ball. Owing to a peculiar oily seed coat, it is said that mustard seed would stay in the ground for twenty years, and at the end of that period, if conditions were right, it would grow. While the cabbage belongs to the same family, and has the same oily seed coat, its useful vitality is limited to about six years. After perhaps the second year the vitality quite rapidly decreases, therefore it is good policy to test seed before sowing. 8 LATE CABBAGE Do not be satisfied with seed that will simply sprout; put them into some dirt and see if they will throw good strong plants. Often seed that will germinate between damp blotting paper or in a seed tester will not throw good strong plants. If I were forced to depend upon commercial seed I would purchase it one year ahead, and grow some cabbage, then I would know what I had before I set a whole field. If you know of some one who is producing good seed from a good strain, by all means secure your seed from him. The price you have to pay is the very last thing to look at. It is certainly penny-wise and dollar-foolish to spend time and money on a crop, then use poor, cheap seed that would not produce a good crop under the best of con- ditions. I will assure you that the average crop will be poor enough if you do all you can to make it your best. Our best potato growers want seed potatoes from stock that yields 500 or 600 bushels per acre. They have found that blood tells, even in potatoes. This same principle applies to cabbage. Seed from a strain that has yielded 20 to 30 tons per acre is far more valuable than seed from a strain that has never been tested out. (Fig. 3.) Suppose you purchase seed enough for two separate ; acres of cabbage; the seed for one acre is common stock costing $2.00 per pound, the seed for the other acre was raised from a high-yielding strain and cost perhaps $4.00 per pound; now it will take about one-half pound of seed to insure plants enough for each acre; this makes the cost $1.00 and $2.00 respectively. You then set each acre, using about eight thousand plants apiece. The acre where CABBAGE SEED 9 you used the cheap ($2.00) seed grows cabbage heads that weigh about four pounds each, making a yield of 16 tons = Fic. 3.—Results obtained by using a high-yielding strain. Cabbage in this field yielded over thirty tons per acre. per acre. The acre where you used the high-yielding strain will grow heads that weigh about five pounds each, mak- ing a yield of 20 tons per acre. Now then, you have 10 LATE CABBAGE gained 4 tons of cabbage per acre, worth at least $6.00 per ton. All this for the small investment of $1.00 in a little better grade of seed; this leaves a net profit of $23.00. If it costs $40.00 an acre to grow an acre of cabbage, one acre would cost $40.00, and the other $41.00, the gross returns from the acre where the cheap seed was used would be $96.00, the net profit per acre would be the difference between $96.00 and $40.00, or $56.00. The gross returns from the acre where the better seed was used would be $120.00. The net profit per acre would be the difference between $120.00, and $41.00, or $79.00. I have tried this seed business out year after year, and I am positive the difference is no less than I have repre- sented. STRAINS NOT TRUE TO TYPE A person not knowing about cabbage-seed raising will often wonder why he gets mixed cabbage, when he ordered only one kind. Thisis very easily accounted for. It often happens in the seed-growing districts that one neighbor will be growing Domestic seed, another neighbor just over the fence will be growing Danish seed. These two fields may cross-pollinate from wind carrying the pollen, but the chief reason is insects and bees. Perhaps some other neighbor will be growing Brussels sprouts seeds; if so, cross-breeding will take place and the result will be a worthless plant. There are also many cases of seed getting mixed with other varieties after it is harvested; this often happens during retail trade. CHAPTER III LOCATING AND SOWING A CABBAGE SEED BED Fuuuy one-half of all cabbage failures comes from things that can be traced to seed, seed sowing, or getting a stand of good healthy plants in the seed bed. In choosing a location for the seed bed too much care cannot be exercised. The ground should be well-drained, mellow soil, and as free from weeds as possible. Never locate where there has been an old barnyard or where any soakage from one will get onto your bed; never use ground that has had cabbage or any other cruciferous crop grown on it for at least six years, because club root is more liable to develop. Some are very successful by breaking up a piece of old pasture, and using this on which to sow their seed; under such circumstances one should be careful not to use ground that has had a lot of manure dropped on it by stock which have been fed diseased cabbage. Neither should the stock have run over some old diseased cabbage field, then across your chosen spot. Very often the poorest place for a seed bed is some nice wash land along a stream. If you are in a section of the county that is not all level, the safest place is at least the first rise of ground. Do not locate at the foot of some steep bank or on any other ground where there will be danger from washing. Often iE 12 LATE CABBAGE a good sharp shower has been known to ruin a seed bed. The mellower and looser the soil, of course, the easier the plants will take up at setting time. FITTING THE SEED BED If the land to be used is sod ground, fall plowing is always best, because you cannot get the capillary attraction thoroughly established with spring plowing, especially if the season is dry. The plants have only a few weeks in which to grow before transplanting time, and it is very important that we control every factor in our power to get them ready at the proper time. Being a week or ten days late in trans- planting often results in a great loss of moisture to the crop in a dry year. We never know when a dry year is coming. A very thorough preparation of the bed is nec- essary. The soil must be worked up fine and mellow if you expect a good germination. Do not expect to put a seed bed in first-class shape when the ground is damp and soggy; choose bright, sunny days when the ground will dry as you stir it. I like a good disk harrow to use in pulverizing the soil for a seed bed. If one does not have a disk harrow, a com- mon spring-tooth harrow will answer. As soon as the seed bed has been leveled I prefer to sow my fertilizer so that the rest of the fitting will work it in. (See Seed-bed Fer- tilization.) I prefer to broad-cast my fertilizer, whether seed is to be broad-casted or sown in rows.’ (See Seed Sowing.) Having the fertilizer now on, proceed to work LOCATING AND SOWING A CABBAGE SEED BED 13 the bed until the ground is very fine and mellow. If there are no lumps larger than a pea it is all the better. If the ground is lumpy a planker (plank drag) will greatly help in pulverizing it. A common land roller will greatly help, if one does not have a planker. Last of all, go over the bed with a spike-toothed drag, or some other smoothing harrow. SEED-BED FERTILIZATION Common commercial fertilizers are best for growing cabbage seedlings, especially if the ground has a fair supply of organic matter. It usually will have, when sod ground is broken up for a seed bed. If there is a lack of organic matter the best way to supply it is by applying well-rotted manure at the rate of 20 tons per acre. There are several objections to using manure at all; it is apt to contain weed seeds, diseased cabbage, cauli- flowers or some other cruciferous plant, thus bringing dis- ease to the seed bed: it is also hard to get it worked into the soil evenly. My rule for commercial fertilizer is as follows: For 1 pound of seed select 2000 square feet of ground on which apply 100 pounds of a good complete fertilizer with about the following formula: Eg 612) | Rl ae Sn e 4 per cent Procpnorie ache <0). 2 ios. . 10 per cent ED TNS 1D Ane ie. be OR On 6 per cent Ifthe ground is deficient in organic matter, and you apply the manure as above suggested, I would omit the 14 LATE CABBAGE nitrogen supply, making the fertilizer formula read as follows: Phosphoric etd 25). raven elas 10 per’ cent Potisht: Sch se ha son ee ae 6 per cent It is best not to use too much nitrogen, as it has a tendency to produce spindling, watery plants in a wet season. If the plants are growing too slowly, it is better to apply it later as described under “ Transplanting.” For a plot on which you would sow a pound of seed, 100 pounds of very fine quicklime or wood ashes will be of value in sweetening up the soil and helping to hold in check any club root that might be in the ground. If air- slaked or ground limestone is used, the quantity should be double. If hydrated lime is used, use one-third more. The lime should be applied and worked in as early as pos- sible; this gives it more chance to act upon the soil. If the ground is fall-plowed, apply the lime then, and work it in. About 300 pounds of wood ashes would furnish the same amount of lime and also all potash needed. AMOUNT OF SEED REQUIRED FOR ONE ACRE There are about 136,000 cabbage seeds in 1 pound. This, however, is not a safe rule to go by when figuring the amount you need to get plants enough for one acre of cabbage. Generally speaking, the average cabbage seed will not germinate over 75 per cent. The cabbage plant is at its weakest point when it is getting into the world. Quite a percentage of the seeds that germinate never get to be LOCATING AND SOWING A CABBAGE SEED BED 15 large enough to set. Many die before they get through the ground, and insects destroy thousands of them. The very safest way is to sow about twice as much seed as will ordinarily be required. I always say, allow 4 pound of seed for every acre of cabbage you expect to set. One year with another you will save dollars by fol- lowing a practice like this. If you have a surplus of plants you can almost always sell more than enough to pay for all your seed. There always has been and probably always will be a class of people that will not have plants enough of their own. | Then there is another very important thing about having a good supply—that is, you have a chance to pick out good healthy, stocky plants; the first pick of a seed bed is to be preferred. I think if there was nothing more to be gained than this, you have the satisfaction of knowing you started with the best. Start the best you can and you will usually end up poorly enough. Many a man has bought diseased plants or stock that was not true to name, because he was not forehanded enough to have plants in abundance for himself. Some men make a business of growing plants for sale; there is quite a fair profit to be made in this way if a man will stick to it year after year. Some years a man cannot sell enough to pay for his seed and fertilizer, then perhaps the next year he will do well enough to more than make up. About all that is necessary to sell them is to do a little advertising in your local paper, and you will soon have a reputation for growing plants. Danish stock usually sells for from 50 cents to one 16 LATE CABBAGE dollar per 1000 plants. The earliest plants usually bring the most money. If early Domestic stock is raised they are usually started in cold frames; plants handled this way bring from $3 to $5 per thousand. Domestic stock grown in the open brings about the same price as the Danish plants. | WHEN TO SOW CABBAGE SEED “When shall I sow my cabbage seed?” is a question very frequently asked. Of course the answer will vary, according to the locality and also to the kind of cabbage, whether Domestic or those of the Danish class. I can answer it only for my own locality, which is central New York. As a rule, the Domestics want to be sown just as soon as the ground will permit; the young plants are quite re- sistant to any frosts that may occur. I do not recail ever seeing young plants damaged in the seed bed in the spring. For Danish seed, May 1 is a very satisfactory date, one year with another. This is about the time of early oat sowing. | If the seed bed is to be covered with a screen of cheese- cloth, the seed sowing may be put off a week or ten days, as seedlings grow much faster under a screen of this kind. Further directions about screening will be given in a chapter on screening. WHY SEEDS FAIL TO GROW There are many reasons why seeds fail to grow and make good strong plants. Among the most common is improper depth of planting. Seed planted too deep, no LOCATING AND SEWING A CABBAGE SEED BED 17 matter how strong their germination, will give a stand of weak plants. Plants which come from seed which is planted too deep must form a second set of roots near the surface of the ground; these are called aerial roots, and are necessary to the healthy growth of the plant. These aerial roots will grow as soon as the seed starts to ger- minate if it is planted at the proper depth. If planted too deep the young plants will not grow well until these aerial roots have formed. This means a standstill in growth of perhaps a week or ten days. Good cabbage seed that is planted 3 inch deep will be very likely to germinate from 85 to 95 per cent. If this same seed were planted 4 or 5 inches it probably would not germinate over 5 or 10 per cent. There must be proper amounts of air, heat and moisture for best results. Sowing seed and commercial fertilizer together is not to be recommended, for often the fertilizer is so strong that it will destroy the young plant roots. Seed put into lumpy, loose soil often will not germinate because of the lack of moisture; should it germinate under such conditions there is danger of losing many of them by the soil drying out before the plant gets deeply rooted. Do not plant too deep. The soil should be well firmed around the seed to insure proper moisture for germination. Seed sown just before a heavy rain do not come through the surface crust as readily, because they often do not have strength enough in their slender stems to lift it. Cabbage seed may be sown too early in the season before the weather conditions are suitable to its germina- tion; better plants will be obtained if sowing is put off until 18 LATE CABBAGE ground and weather conditions are suitable. Often seed- lings are destroyed by insects shortly after they come through the ground. TREATING CABBAGE SEED FOR DISEASE As a safeguard against introducing several very de- structive cabbage diseases, one should always treat his seed with a solution of Bichloride of Mercury (Corrosive Fic. 4.—Not a healthy head was harvested from this field. Seed treat- ment would have prevented this loss. Sublimate) before sowing. (Fig. 4.) As heretofore men- tioned, cabbage seed have an oily seed coat to which disease germs will adhere and be carried from one year to another. LOCATING AND SOWING A CABBAGE SEED BED 19 If there were any disease in the stock from which the seed were produced, this disease will be very likely to be found upon the cabbage seed. When cabbage seeds are threshed the whole plant is pretty well ground up, so that if there were any disease, the seed would be pretty apt to have some sticking on its oily seed coat. One of my neighbors last year lost 11 acres simply because he failed to treat his seed. The damage does not stop here, for he has his ground infested with disease, which will carry for many years to come. This man sold a great many thousand plants to others, and of course they all had failures. Perhaps it would be a very good question to ask when buying plants whether or not the man treated his seed before sowing. I would not buy and set a plant from any one unless I was positive the stock was clean. Here are the simple directions: To treat 1 pound of seed, dissolve one Corrosive Sublimate tablet in 1 pint of water; use an earthen dish for the work. Soak the seed fifteen minutes in this solution, then take them out and rinse in clean water. This rinsing is quite important, as the Corrosive Sublimate will prevent germination if allowed to remain on the seed. Now spread the seed to dry, but not in the sun or near artificial heat. The seed may be sown when damp, providing you do not want to use a seed drill. The Corrosive Sublimate tables tmay be obtained from any drug store for about 1 cent each. These tablets con- tain 7,2; grains of Corrosive Sublimate and when dissolved 20 LATE CABBAGE in 1 pint of water make a solution of 1 to 1000. The tablets are deadly poison and should be kept away from children. SOWING CABBAGE SEED Having our seed bed ready and our seed treated for disease, the next step is sowing the seed. Localities vary as to the methods they use; some sow all seed in rows, while others sow broad-cast. It is far more difficult than it seems to sow broad-cast, and do a good, even job. If you are going to sow broad-cast by hand, one will do a better job to divide the seed into two parts, then sow the bed over with one part of the seed, walking east and west, then sow the other part walking north and south. Some like to mix the seed with sand or fine dirt; this makes a larger quantity which may be distributed evenly with greater ease. Seed sown broad-cast should be on as clean ground as possible, as they cannot be cultivated or weeded out. Gen- erally speaking, the plants will be a little more stocky, as they are not crowded as much as in rows. Cover the seed as near 34 inch as possible. A peg-toothed harrow is a good tool to use if the bed is of any size; if small, it can be covered by hand with a rake. If you are forced by con- tinued rainy weather to sow your seed when the ground is damp, it is best not to roll the seed bed, otherwise the bed should be rolled or firmed thoroughly in some manner. If the row method is adopted, the best way is to use a seed drill. There are a number of good drills on the mar- ket, such as Planet Jr., and Iron Age. In using the row LOCATING AND SOWING A CABBAGE SEED BED 21 method, I prefer rows 6 to 8 inches apart, and the seed sown very thin in the row; from 4 to 6 seed per inch is enough if the germination is good. This thin sowing gives more stocky plants, which are to be preferred to tall, spindling ones. I think a man will get a few more plants from a pound of seed sown in rows, as the covering is more even. There are a few sections where the soil is so heavy that the seed have to be covered with dry sand, other- wise the soil will bake so hard that the young plants cannot come through; under such conditions the row method is best. Some claim plants can be taken up better when seed is sown in rows. Of the two methods, broad-casting is the simplest and the one most used by the average farmer. Never sow a seed bed when the ground is damp and soggy, if you can help it; the ground will bake and form a crust at the surface which will prevent the seed from coming through. It is not wise to sow seed just before a heavy rain, on account of the crust which forms when the ground is drying out. Better wait until the ground has become dry enough to work again after the rain; sowing in damp ground and just before a rain causes more poor stands of plants than sowing poor seed. CHAPTER, EY. SCREENING Ir is only of late years that the cabbage grower has been troubled with insects when trying to grow his seed- lings. Perhaps I could not explain the matter any better than by quoting the summary of the Geneva bulletin, | No. 334, by W. J. Schoene. ‘‘The important insects attacking seedlings are the turnip flea-beetle, Phyllotreta vittata Fab., which injures the leaves of the young plant; and the cabbage maggot, Pegomya Spp., which attacks the underground portion of the plant.” Cheesecloth conserves the moisture, increases the tem- perature, and in the early season furnishes a more con- genial condition for growth. Plants raised under cheese- cloth start sooner, grow faster, and obtain the desired size a week or ten days earlier than plants in the open. Experiments show that screening completely protects the seedlings from maggot injuries, also that certain grades of cheesecloth will prevent injury by flea-beetles. The experience of four years has shown that the use of cheesecloth is entirely practicable, the cost of protecting plants ranging from 6 to 20 cents per 1000. THE FLEA-BEETLE (Phyllotreta vittata Fab.) Many of us have often wondered where our young cabbage seedlings disappeared to, when they had only 22 SCREENING 23 the cotyledon on them; then we have often wondered what was eating the young plants, making them look so ragged. The turnip flea-beetle is responsible for the trouble. This little black beetle is not any larger than the head of a pin. Since wild mustard has become so common, the flea- beetle has thrived pretty well, as this plant furnishes the majority of its food. Since the mustard and cabbage are germinating at about the same time, the starving beetles come from their hibernating quarters and begin to destroy the young plants. Not only are the cotyledons eaten, but later the first leaves are often damaged; as a usual thing the danger period lasts only from five to seven days, or until the plants get their more hardy leaves. The flea-beetle larve often damage the underground portion of the young plants by eating out the center of the stem. This work is often laid to the cabbage maggot, but upon close examination, you will see that the work is done by the flea-beetle larve. Both flea-beetle and maggot cause more trouble if the seed bed is located in a warm, sheltered place. THE CABBAGE MAGGOT (Pegomya Spp.) The adult of the cabbage maggot much resembles the house-fly. This fly deposits the eggs at the surface of the ground around the young seedlings. The eggs hatch and the young larve work down and commence to feed upon the root system of the plant; as a usual thing they do not attain headway in a seed bed until ten days or two weeks before setting time. At first one only notices a few withered 24. LATE CABBAGE Fic. 5.—Note the protection a screen of cheesecloth affords against insects. Cut below screened. Cut above not screened. SCREENING 25 plants; if the weather is dry and warm, the plants root slowly, then the maggots will destroy a bed in a few days. Many plants look all right until pulled, then you will dis- cover they have only a few roots, usually not enough to carry them through the transplanting operation. CONSTRUCTING A CHEESECLOTH SCREEN FOR A SEED BED The work of screening consists of setting up boards around the seed bed over which cheesecloth is stretched and tacked about every 6 inches. Stake the corners of your bed before sowing; then, after it is sown, set up the boards around the edge. These boards may be any where from 6 inches to 10 inches wide; I think perhaps 8 is most desirable. There should be galvanized wires stretched across the bed about every 4 feet to keep the screen from sagging down on the young plants; in turn these wires should be supported about every 10 feet by a small stake. The wires can pass over the tops of the stakes and small staples driven in to hold them in place; do not use rusty wires, because they will wear holes through the cloth when it rests upon them. Put the cheesecloth screen on as soon as you sow the seed; it prevents the ground from baking and the seed will germinate much better and faster. The amount of seed can be reduced one-third or more for a given number of plants if the screen is used. Care should be exercised not to sow seed too thickly under a screen. Plants are a little more tender and watery when raised under a screen. To overcome this it is best to remove the screen a week or ten days before the plants are ready to 26 LATE CABBAGE A m Pbk brewer Fim ; Bure | BAL Apsornere devo % the bavnt Tesats,. WZ: - 2. ae oie ad Wet. g Fic. 6.—Upper plants grown in the open. Lower plants grown under a screen of cheesecloth. All other conditions the same. SCREENING 27 set; the maggots cannot develop enough in this length of time to do any harm. When the plants get to just about the right size, it is best to transplant, or they will get too large. Often, in a very few days, if the weather is warm and wet, the plants will double in size. If such conditions prevail you will have to be on hand to transplant, or they will grow tall and spindling, which is very undesirable. I have been screening my seed bed for a number of years, and I am so well pleased with the results that if there were no insects to bother, I would continue just the same. You are almost sure of a good stand of plants under a screen, no matter what the weather. One year it was so dry that the seed in an open bed would not germinate until the bed was wet artificially, but those under the screen came along all right. I pro- ceeded with setting when the proper time came, as the plants under the screen were plenty big enough. Dry weather continued all summer, and in the fall I had the best piece of cabbage in the county. People came from far and near to see the piece. This piece harvested over 20 tons per acre and that year cabbage brought from $15.00 to $20.00 per ton from the field. It always pays to be on hand with a crop. The best grade of cheesecloth to use for screening is that having from 20 to 30 threads to the inch. This same screen can be used for three or four years, depending upon the care you give it. A piece of paper placed under the cloth when sewing breadths together will help to make it feed freely through the sewing machine. CHAPTER V TYPE OF SOIL BEST ADAPTED TO CABBAGE— FIELD PREPARATION Tue cabbage, being one of our hardiest vegetables, will adapt itself to most soils; those of gravelly nature are not as suitable, because they lack the moisture-holding power. The crop often does best on a clay loam found on so many hills and uplands; perhaps the reason this type of soil was not used for cabbage-growing in the past was because it was not properly tilled and well fertilized. In the past a great deal of cabbage-raising was done along the streams and in the richer valleys. This soil pro- duced cabbage so many years that the yield is now greatly reduced. The soil has become “ cabbage-sick,’’ so to speak; disease has gotten in and the soil must have a rest. While I cannot give you a set of directions telling just where you should put your cabbage every year, I may be able to suggest some things that will help in choosing a field better adapted to the crop. First of all—do not put cabbage where you have recently had them, or any other cruciferous crop. It is better to have from five to seven years between two crops if possible. Fields flooded by a stream quite often develop club root. Do not put them on a field where wild mustard will club root. 28 TYPE OF SOIL BEST ADAPTED 29 KILLING QUACK GRASS I prefer sod ground on which to grow my cabbage if I can get it. Most truck growers and farmers run some kind of a rotation and have more or less quack grass. From the sod to be broken up I would select for my field that portion where the quack grass is worst. Of course, if you have no quack grass, put your cabbage where you please, if other conditions are all right. If you have a quack field, plow it the last of August just deep enough to get below all roots, give it a thorough dragging during the hot days in the fall, and work all the quack roots to the surface you can. If roots get so thick they clog a drag, rake them up with a horse rake and draw them off, or burn if they are dry. Do not be afraid to get down deep and do business with a sharp spring- toothed harrow. Let me say right here that a_ spring- toothed harrow is the only tool that is worth using for this work. Put on three horses if you have them, and do a thorough job. Early in the spring plow this field again, deeply this time, perhaps 10 to 12 inches. Now the few remaining quack roots can be dragged out from this side of the fur- rows and the quack grass is conquered. The reason we have always failed to kill quack grass in our crops is because of the few roots down in the soil below the harrow and cultivator. The under-roots throw up new shoots and of course new roots form from them. If the grower will use some method like the one here described and get out those under roots, quack grass is not hard to 30 LATE CABBAGE handle. My farm used to be infested so badly that I thought at one time I would have to abandon some of the fields. By following the principle here given I have the quack grass completely under control. PREPARING A FIELD FOR CABBAGE In the preparation of a field for cabbage, always fall- plow if possible, as this gives more moisture to the crop. No other crop that the farmer raises requires so much moisture. If you cannot fall-plow, do it as soon in the spring as the ground is fit. Do not put off plowing because the crop is not going out until some time in June. Commencing in the spring as soon as the ground is fit, it should be dragged at least once a week until setting time. Here is something that is of twofold importance; it not only con- serves the moisture, but most of the weed seeds in the soil will germinate and be killed. You can kill more weeds with a harrow this way than you can by cultivating and hoeing half the summer. This is a point well worth keep- ing in mind. Put your ground in mellow shape; it is a lot easier to do it with a harrow than with a cultivator and a hoe. Often the use of a planker will work wonders in pulver- izing lumpy ground. In some instances a roller can be used for the same purpose. If a field has been properly fitted, you will never have to wait for a rain at transplanting time. Just under the © surface of the ground it will be very moist. Most men TYPE OF SOIL BEST ADAPTED dl are inclined to slight field preparation. This is one of the most important steps in cabbage culture. I cannot tell you just what tools will best prepare your field, because some soils need disking and rolling or planking to pulverize them, while others can be put in excellent shape by the use of either the srping-toothed or the disk harrow. If you are using a spring-tooth, do not expect to do good work with an old tool. I have seen men try to fit a field with an old spring-toothed harrow having no points on the teeth; in fact the teeth were half worn off. Honestly, they were wasting a good share of their time and not doing much more good than by dragging a cat around by the tail. Throw that old harrow away or sell it to some one who wants one that will draw easy. Now get one with wide teeth on it, and be sure that they are set close enough together, so that they cut nearly all the ground. Some firms are making what they call an easy-draft harrow; they have narrowed up the width of the teeth, reduced the number, and set them farther apart on the frame. This kind of a tool cuts only part of the ground and leaves ridges of hard soil; weeds, having a tough stem like thistles, will easily slip through such a tool. From five to eight harrowings are none too many for good fitting; the finer you can get your soil the more mois- ture you can draw up from underneath and retain for the crop. This moisture is of great help in dissolving plant food. Some men are in such a hurry about fitting their fields that when they come to transplant they need a crowbar _ 32 LATE CABBAGE to do the work with. If your ground is thoroughly fitted, the cultivator will work much freer, and there will be less danger of its jumping and damaging plants when you are working close to them. Do not try to work land that is too wet, you will only pack it down and make it harder than it was before. If you do not believe this, drag some land that is too wet, then let it lay until it is well dried out; now plow it, and you will have a large, hard lump everywhere the horses put their feet when you were dragging it. DITCHING If you have fields on the farm that have wet spots in them they should be ditched before the cabbage are set. The crop is not put out until late in the season, and there are many days that are not suitable to work the soil that could be made to count well if they were spent in ditching. I well remember two neighbors each having a field that was inclined to be wet in spots. Neighbor A said, he was going to run a little ditch in his field and then he would be sure not to lose part of his crop should the season be wet. Neighbor B said he guessed he would chance his this year, as he had cut some pretty good hay on those wet spots. Well, the season happened to be unusually wet and the results was that neighbor A harvested a full crop of cabbage, if I remember correctly nearly 25 tons per acre, while neighbor B had only about one-fourth that amount. TYPE OF SOIL BEST ADAPTED 33 The school of experience is a sure way to knowledge, but the tuition is rather high. If you are going to do some work of this kind, use only vitrified tile, and let some one who knows how tell you about laying out your system. Any agricultural school can furnish you the information. CHAPTER VI FERTILIZATION CABBAGE needs plenty to eat as well as to drink if we expect to get large yields. This does not mean that it needs wet land. It takes as much fertilizer out of the soil to grow 5 tons of cabbage per acre as it does to grow 20 bushels of wheat. It takes about 1000 spoonfuls of water to make one spoonful of commercial fertilizer all available for a plant; now do you wonder that I have advised preservation of moisture in the preceding chapter? I cannot give a formula for fertilizer that will fit every man’s conditions, while it is true that many soils need the same kind of chemicals, yet one man’s soil may need twice as much as another to produce the same results. The amount of organic matter in the soil plays a very important part in the fertilization question. What does organic matter do for the soil? Organic matter is the life of the soil; it makes the soil loose and spongy. A soil in this condition admits air freely, which, together with the moisture it holds, breaks down the veg- etable matter. When this operation takes place, there are acids thrown off which dissolve the minerals in the soil, such as, phosphoric acid and potash, and make them available for the plants. The more this breaking down 34 FERTILIZATION 35 process can be stimulated, the more plant food will be lib- erated. A soil which is so full of organic matter that it feels light and soft will hold minerals in solution for a much longer period than a soil that is hard and gritty. For cabbage I like to use a combination of stable manure and commercial! fertilizer. For example, on a soil that is up in good heart, that is, one that has had sod or manure worked into it in previous years, give it a dressing of 10 tons of manure per acre and then apply broadcast from 800 to 1500 pounds of a fertilizer analyzing 2 per cent nitrogen, 10 per cent phosphoric acid, and 8 per cent potash. If you have a liberal supply of nitrogen that will become available for the crop, say a heavy clover sod, you might leave off the 2 per cent nitrogen from the above formula; use plenty of phosphoric acid and potash. These are the elements that form good hard heads. If no manure is at hand, simply increase the amount of com- mercial fertilizer. In an ordinary season, there is little danger of getting on too much nitrogen, but in occasionally very wet years a very large supply is apt to make the cabbage grow too leafy and loose; as a rule cabbages need to grow firm and hard. This gives them good keeping qualities. Two fields set side by side, the plants raised from the same seed and set at the same time, will produce cabbage that looks entirely different if nothing but the nitrogen supply is varied. Many times such variations as this have been laid to the seed producers when really the trouble was in the fertilization. There is always more of all fer- tilizing elements available in a wet year. 36 LATE CABBAGE If there is a lack of nitrogen, which will be most notice- able in a dry year by the very slow growth of the crop, it may be supplied some time in August by giving the field a top dressing of nitrate of soda. This is very easily done by taking a small pail which is carried from a strap over the shoulder and, walking between the rows, turning small hand- fuls of nitrate through a grain tube taken from a grain drill. This tube is carried in one hand and held in front of you — as you walk along. This method is far better than trying to sow it broadcast, as you will see none of the nitrate falls upon the large leaves of the plant. By holding the tube perhaps one foot from the ground, the nitrate will spread over a good share of the space between the rows. METHOD OF TESTING FIELD TO FIND WHAT FERTILIZER IS NEEDED Every man should make a few test spots on his farm to find out what kind of fertilizer and what amounts are most profitable to use. By the following method one can make a fair test of what his farm needs; it is better to take several years’ average than to base it all upon one. Somewhere in your cabbage field where the ground is as near average as possible, stake off 12 plots 25 feet square, number these 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc. No. 1 apply Nothing Js 20¢ worth of Nitrogen 3 20¢ worth of Phosphoric acid 4 20¢ worth of Potash 3” FERTILIZATION ‘sjojd 480} JozIyJoy Surysiom pus sutyynNO—y ‘OI ATE CABBAGE L 38 "U9}JOB10J UOOS JOU ST YOTYM UOTsserduut ue soyvur sofid oY} JO 9218 OY} Ul UOT}VIIGA OY} Udy} Udeq 2ABY YO[d Yows Jo s}YySsIom oY} IOIFY—'g ‘PIT FERTILIZATION 39 20¢ worth of Manure Nothing 10¢ worth of Nitrogen 10¢ worth of Phosphoric acid 10¢ worth of Nitrogen 10¢ worth of Potash 10¢ worth of Phosphoric acid 10¢ worth of Potash 62¢ worth of Nitrogen, Phosphoric acid, and Potash 11 20¢ worth of Lime 12 Nothing = AZ ©. . <2 <60 Oo)