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Purchased by the Mary Cheves Dulles Fund

Division

Section -i

A

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2016

https://archive.org/details/lifeinforestsoff02stjo

LIFE IN THE FORESTS

OF

THE FAR EAST.

• 1 * .

. /*' ! .

THE CATAEi

LIFE IN THE FORESTS

THE FAR EAST. ( -Hit. 54 3914

BY

SPENSER ST. JOHN, F.R.G.S., E.E.S.,

FORMERLY H.M.’S CONSUL-GENERAL IV THE GREAT ISLAND OF BORNEO,

AND NOW

II.M.’S CHARGE D’AFFAIRES TO THE REPUBLIC OF HAYTI.

1 17777 NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL.

M.DCCC.LXII.

[ The right of Translation is reserved.

CONTENTS

Chapter I.

EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR TO THE
SOUTH AND SOUTH-EAST OF THE CAPITAL.

PAGE

Preliminary Expeditions — The Limbang River — Stories con-
nected with it — The Madalam — River flowing under a Pile
of Rocks — Caverns — Batu Rikan — The River issuing from
under the Mountain of Molu — Ascend the Precipices — No
Water — Long Roots — No Soil — Second Expedition — A
Flood — Dangerous Position — Wakeful Night — Beautiful
Flowers — Palms and Rhododendrons — Old Kayan Encamp-
ment— Detached Rocks — Ascent of Molu — Two new Spe-
cies of Nepenthes — Difficult Climbing — New Rhododen-
drons— Stopped by a Precipice — Sharp-edged Rocks —
Descent — Limestone Rock — Cave — Heavy Rain — Swollen
River — Quick Return — Prepare for a distant Expedition
— Alarm of the Brunean Government — Warnings — Prepa-
rations— Boats — My Headman, Musa — A Travelled Dayak
— Stories of Molu — Weapons — Merchandise . . . 1

Chapter II.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

Start — Discovery of Bones and ancient Ornaments — At the
Site of the Old City — At the Stone Fort — At Sarawak —
The Trusan, or connecting Passage — Apathy of the Govern-
ment and People — Sago — Method of preparing it for the

VOL. II. b

VI

CONTENTS.

Market — The Limbang River — The Inhabitants — Winding
Stream — The Orang Kaya Upit of Kruei — Sampirs —
Gadong Hill — Scenery — Molu — The Raman Palm — Delays
— Cholera — Orang Kaya Napur — Panglima Prang — The
Weather — State of the River — Origin of the Ponds — Native
Geographical Information — The Upper Country — Cataract
— Enchanted Mountain — Native Travelling — Dreams and
Omen Birds — Religion of Pakatans — Cause of Head-
hunting— The Wild Boar — Trouble in procuring Guides
— Pengkalan Tarap — Desolation of the Country — Causes
of it — Selling Children — Kayan Barbarity — Chinese at
Batang Parak — Site of Burnt Villages — Posts of Houses —
Two kinds of Sago Palm — Their Growth — Kayan Encamp-
ment— Cultivation — The River — Rocks — Salt Springs —
Native Explanation — Anecdote — Time to halt — Birds —
Rare, except in certain Districts — Monkeys — Alligators —
The Man-eater — A Challenge accepted — Disappearance of
the Siol Alligator — Combat with two in a Cave — Method
of Capturing them in Siam — Laying Eggs in the Jungle
— Ducks and Drakes — Malay Cookery — Very tasty —
Blachang — How to make a Curry — Anecdotes of Bornean
Rule — Attack on the Limpasong Village — Insurrection of
the Aborigines — Forced Trade — Qualities necessary in a
Malay Ruler — The great Mountain of Tilong — Discom-
fort of possessing a large Diamond — Diamonds found in
Borneo ..........

Chapter III.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — Continued.

Wet Morning — Wild Cattle — A Night Adventure — View of
Molu Mountain — A Pebbly Flat — Moose Deer — Our Tents
— Kayans — Their Attacks — Desolation — Course they
pursue to invade these Districts — Difficulties — Attack the
Lepuasing Muruts — Fearful Retaliation — Attacks on the
Villages of the Lower Limbang — Makota’s Treachery —
His Cupidity — Surprise of Balat Ikan — Alarm Signal —
Advance — Fresh Kayan Marks — Inundations — Unskilful
Sportsmen — Difficult Rapids — The Sertab Hills — Enter
the Limestone District — A New Kayan Hut — High Pork

CONTENTS.

Vll

— Effect of Pebbles on the Rock — Agreeable Evening —
Omen Birds — Japer’s Method of easing a sore Heart —

The Punan Tribe — The Spy — The Alligator Omen — The
Bird Omen — Attack the Village — Poisoned Arrows —
Destruction of a Tribe — Effect of such Forays on the
Country — The Ghosts on the Tapang Tree — Numerous
Bees’ Nests — Sand Flies — Seribas Omen Bird — The Sa-
lindong — Kayan Eesting-place — Traces of Captives taken
— Precautions — Difficulties increase — Limestone Country
— Severe Toil — Accidents avoided — Hauling the Boats —
River narrows — A Fresh — Towing-ropes — Story of the
Death of Orang Kaya Apo— Enter the Sandstone District
again — Broader River — Snakes on Trees — The same Colour
as the Boughs and Foliage — Biawaks or Guanas — A large
One — Their Ways — The Fowls and the Cobra — Heavy
Day’s Work — Future Plans — Two Ways of reaching Adang
— The flying Foxes — Huge Frog — The Madihit— Leave
our Boats — Handsome Trees — Appearance of the Country
— Sand Flies — Preparations for the Overland Journey —
Division of Food — Our famous Hunters — A Cache — The
Chinese on the Madihit ....... 49

Chapter IV.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — Continued.

Start on the Land Journey — Our Course — Ascend the Rawan
Torrent — Attacked by Hornets — Native Remedy — Severe
Effect of Sting — Disturbed by Ants — Japer left behind —
Fresh Traces of Strangers' in the Forest — Appearance of
the Country — Water Snake killed — Our Adventure with
One — The Swimming Cobra — Romantic but timely Meeting
— Story of Pangeran Mumein and the Murut Concubine
— Malay Revenge — Punishment of an Offender — Cause of
the Borneans being converted to Mahomedanism — Capturing
the Daughter of Johore — Independent Position of the
Pablat Borneans — Reach the Wax-seekers’ Hut — Flesh of
the Wild Boar — The Adang Muruts — Their Sumpitans —
The Poison on the Arrows — Melted in hot Water —
Weapons purchased, not made by them — Dress of the
Muruts — Japer rejoins us — Continue our Journey -with

b 2

Vlll

CONTENTS.

new Guide — Method of catching Fish— Effect of Loss of
Blood by Leeches — Extraordinary Insect — The Fresh-water
Turtle — Its Description — Curious Fly — Poisoning the
River — Getting short of Provisions — Galton’s Method of
dividing Food — Adopt it — Improvidence of the Malays — •
Cry of the Wahwah — Rejoin the Limbang — Omen Bird
— Prepare forEnemies — Quarrel among the Guides — Divide
the Party — Hard Walking — The Otter — A Fight with
my Dogs — Still beyond the Mountain — Find good Huts —
The Stragglers — The last of the Food — Ascend the Moun-
tains— Exhaustion of the Guides — The Remains of the
Ham — Its Effects — Reach the Summit — Descend to the
Farms — Meet the Adang Muruts — Hearty Welcome —
Names — Recent History of these Villagers — Kayan Attacks
— Driven from the Limbang — The Geography of the
Country — The Houses — Cold, and Fire-places — Arrival of
my Followers — Sir James Brooke — The Friend of the
Aborigines — His Fame had preceded me — How Reports
spread — The Tigers’ Cave — Curious Story

Chapter V.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — Continued.

Women’s Ornaments — Adorning in Public — Confidence shown
by a young Girl — Geography — Leech Bites — Tapioca — The
Manipa Stream — The False and True Brayong— Nothing
but Rice to be purchased — Wild Raspberries — Good Shots
— The Rifle Carbine — Death of a Kite — Picking a
Cocoa-nut — Curious Statement — A Village of Runaways —
Proposed Slave Hunt — Disappointment — Appearance of the
Women — Old Look of the Children — Devoid of Drapery —
Preparing the Plantations — No Goods for Sale — Edible
Bird’s-nest Cave — Difficulties in penetrating farther —
Determine to return — Climate — New Route — Custom in
Drinking similar to the Chinese — Anecdote of Irish
Labourers— Change of Plans — Fashion of wearing Brass
Wire — Start on a Tour among the Villages — The Burning
Path — Village of Purtc — Refreshing Drink — The Upper
Trusan — Distant Ranges — Inviting and receiving Invita-
tions— Fatal Midnight Revel — Tabari’s Village — Alarm

CONTENTS.

IX

of Orang Kaya Upit — Suspension Bridge — Inhabitants
— Scheme of the Adangs to return to their old Districts
— Deers’ Horns — Mourning — Difficult Walking- — The
Tiger’s Leap — Meet Si Puntara — No Real Enemies —
Murud — The Gura Peak — The Main Muruts — Salt as well
as Slave Dealers — Bearskin Jacket — White Marble —
Uncertainty whence procured — Leaden Ear-rings — Un-
becoming Custom — Lofty Mountains— Lawi Cloud-hidden
— Muruts busy Farming — Two Harvests a Year — Agri-
cultural Produce plentiful — Obtain a Goat — Dress of the
Men — Bead Petticoats — Custom of burying on the Tops of
the Lofty Hills — Desecration of Graves — Jars — Discovery
of one in Brunei — Similar Millanau Customs . . .109

Chapter VI.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — Continued.

Commence the return Journey — Kayan Embassy — Indian Corn
— Confidence of the People — Ophthalmia — Old Jar —
Gratitude rarely shown — Anecdote — Warning to Amateur
Doctors — Bezoar Stones — Arrangements at Si Lopong’s —
A Nightcap — Desertion of our Guides — Murut Music —
Start for the Adang — Warned of Difficulties — Abundance of
Rice — Cross the Adang Mountains — Active Girls — The
Ancectochilus — Attack of Fever — Arrangements in case of
its continuance — Loss of Chamber to Revolver — Reach
the Adang — Legend — Construct four Rafts — Pleasant
Movement — Trying Position of one of the Men — The first
Rapid passed — Difficulties at the second — Bold Swimmer
— A Whirlpool — Danger of Drowning — Our Raft tested
— Abandoned — The rest wrecked — Pass the Umur — Reach
the Limbang — Construct fresh Rafts — Uneasy Anticipations
— Heavy Fresh — Fine Specimen of a Raft — Push off —
Dangers and Troubles — TheRafts ungovernable — The Roar-
ing of Waters — Overhanging Cliffs — The Cataract — Awe
of the Men — Shoot the Cataract — Narrow Escape — Its
Height — The Men recover their Voice — Ineffectual Attempts
to stop the Raft — Caught in a Whirlpool — Safety — Arrival
of the other Rafts — Dangers ahead — Walk — Abandon the
Rafts — State of Provisions — Nearly all consumed — Ahtan’s

X

CONTENTS.

Secret Store — Rocks — Advance over the Kalio Hills —
Sparing the Food — Exhausting climbing — “ Jog on” —

Feed on the Cabbages of the Bengkala Palm — Almost a
Mutiny — Facing the Difficulty — Reach the Summit of
the Paya Paya, or “ very difficult ” Hills — Night on the
Summit — Our Tent — The last Fowl — Molu — The greatest
Difficulties passed — Country more open — Follow the Banks
of the River — Distress of the Men — Improvidence — Curious
Sounds in the old Forest — Cry of the Argus Pheasant — of
the Jelatuk — Rending of a Mighty Tree — Danger from
Decaying Trees — Cock-fights among the Argus Pheasants . 131

Chapter VII.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — Concluded.

Stopped for a Day — Five Start for Provisions — The Sick Men
left behind join us — No Shoes — Weakness from want of
Food — Leeches — Stop again — Collect Food — Anecdote of
Female Orang Utan and Murut — Again construct Rafts —
Present of a Cup full of Rice — Start on the Rafts — Aban-
don them — A Bear — The River — Immense Pebbly Flats —
Long Walks — Traces of the Advance Party — Wild Fruit
— Sour Oranges — Recognize a Hill — Fruit of the Jintawan,
or India-rubber Plant — Find Remains of Bees’-nest — The
British Flag — Reach the Madihit — Bad Conduct of the
Advance Party — Food nearly all consumed — An unfeeling
Father — Proposed Punishment — Ravages of the Bears —
Anecdote of Ahtan — Return in the Boats — The Herd of
Wild Cattle — Wound a Bull, but do not get it — A slight
Supper — Start in a Sampir — Ahtan ill — The last of the
Food — News from Brunei — Reach the Town — Arrival of
the rest of the Party — Bornean travelling — Measure Dis-
tance by Fatigue — Slow Progress necessary — Active Murut
— Average Rate of Advance — Great Mistakes made in the
Estimates of Distance — Instances — Mr. Motley’s Account
of his advance up the Limbang — Mr. De Crespigny’s Mis-
take in the Latitude of the River Damit and Position of the
Mountain of Molu — Remarks on the Map — Causes of the
continued Health of my Followers — The Tents — Mistake
in trusting to Native Huts — Native Geographical Informa-

CONTENTS.

XI

tion tested — Found correct — Arrival of the Orang Ivaya
Upit — Tragical Death of Pangeran Mokata, the Shabandar
— Two Years after — Sad Fate of a Party of Adang Muruts
— Murder by Orang Kaya Gomba — Head-hunting — Heads
valued, but none seen — Incident of meeting Head-hunters
— No treacherous Designs — Inefficient Government — Dese-
cration of the Graveyards— Chinese Secret Societies, or
Hues — Ahtan joins one — Robbery of the Iron Chest from
the Consulate — The Sultan’s Method of extorting a Con-
fession — Obstinacy of Ahtan — Officers of the Secret
Society — Chest restored — Prisoners released — The Hue
broken up — Treatment of Prisoners — Musa and the Priest
— Threats — Personal Kegard for some of my Followers . 154

Chapter VIII.

THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.

FIRST VISIT.

Picturesque Islands — Balambangan — An old English Settlement
— Large Monkeys — Optical Illusions — Flights of Birds —
The Curlew — The way we shot them in Sarawak — Game —
Banguey — Mali Wali — Cleared Hills — Fine Water — Sweet-
smelling Jasmine — Cagayan Sulu — Intercourse with the
Inhabitants — Appeai'ance of the Country — Lovely Scenery
— Market — Inhabitants — Insolent Traders — The Crater
Harbour — Wall of Evergreen — Inner Lake — Climb the
Cliff — Scenery — Alligators numerous — Sulu — Appearance
from the Ship — Sugh, the Capital — Mr. Wyndham — The
Watering-place — Suspicious Natives — Fugitives from
Balignini — Reports — A Market— The Mountaineers civil
— Walk to the Palace — The Stockades — Armed Crowd —
Audience Hall — Absurd Reports — The Sultan and his
Nobles — Dress — Politeness of the Sultan — Return to the
Ship — Datu Daniel — The Racecourse — Effect of Dutch
Shot — Tulyan Bay — Alarm of Villagers — Sulu Govern-
ment— Laws — Feuds — The Mahomedan and the Pork —
Population — Fighting-men — Slave Market — Dignified
carriage of the Nobles — Dress — The Balignini — Dutch
Attack — Appearance of the Country — Good position of
Island — Tulyan — Basilan — Numerous Islets — Samboangan

Xll

CONTENTS.

— Spanish Convict Settlement — Description of Country
— Fort — Town — Shops — The Church — The Men — The
Women — The Corner Shop — A Ball — Dancing difficult —
Waltzes — Supplies at Samboangan — A lonely Grave

Chapter IX.

THE SULU ISLANDS.

SECOND VISIT.

Eeacli Sugh — Mr. Wyndham comes on board — His News —
Commercial Eivalry — The Stockades — Visit the Audience
Hall — Appearance of the Sultan — Visit Datu Daniel’s
Stockaded House — Guns — Datu Daniel — Appearance of
the principal Chamber — The Bed — Boxes — Property —
General look of Discomfort — Spittoons — Dismounted Iron
Guns — Taken from the English — Excitement in the Town
— Hereditary Hatred of the Sulus to the Spaniards — Their
Treaty with Spain — Sandakan Bay — Supplies — Variegated
Wood — Salute — English popular — An Exception — Death
of a Sulu Lady from Grief — The Bumah Bechara — A Ship
taken — Interview with the Sultan — Eope — Character of
Datus — The Balignini — Capture an English Ship — Cap-
tives brought to Sulu — Eesult of the Action of the Nemesis
— The Lanuns — At Magindanau and Cape Unsang — A
narrow Escape — Mate to Lord Cochrane — Capture of the
Maria Frederica — Cold-blooded Murder of the Captain —
Jilolo Prahus — Their Bencontre with Sir Edward Belcher
— Pirates off the Arru Group — Sulu Justice — Appearance
of the People — Attack on the Spanish Gunboats — Public
Audience with the Sultan — Private Visit to the House of
his Bride — The Women — Opium-smoking — Invitation to
revisit Sulu — The Spanish Gunboats — Samboangan — The
Corner Shop — Sunday’s Amusements — Appearance of the
Neighbourhood — A Breakfast in the Country — Long Walks
— People comfortable — Story of the Loss and Be-capture of
the Dolphin — The Dolphin sails for Maludu Bay — Quarrels
— Surprised — Death of Mr. Burns and the Captain —
Murder of a Woman — Injury to Trade — Datu Badrudin’s
Monopolies — The Tungku Pirates — Visit the chief Town
of Maludu — Sherif Hasin’s Account of the Surprise of the

TAGE

178

CONTENTS.

Xlll

Dolphin — The Re-capture of the Vessel by Sherif Yasin —
Arrival at Benggaya — Dolphin delivered up — Visit the
Village of Sherif Yasin — His Appearance — His Account of
the Re-capture — His Position — Smoking over Powder —
Delivery of the Cargo — Return to the Ship — Argus Phea-
sants— Meet with Baju Boats — Pearl Fishers — Retaliation
— Fishing for Pearls — Mr. Edwardes’ Pearl — Story of the
Datu, and his great good Fortune — The Mermaid Pearl —
Present State of Piracy on the North-West Coast — Cruise
of the Balignini in 1861 — Ransom of Inchi Ngah — Names
of present Haunts of the Balignini — A Mangrove Swamp —
Present System of Balignini — Escape of a Native — The
Lanuns — A Dayak’s Experience — A Slave Mart — Spanish
Attack on Sugh — Severe Fight— Bravery of the Sulus —
Capture of the Town — The Sulu Government retire to the
Hills, and refuse to submit — A Teak Forest burnt — No
Teak in Borneo — Elephants extinct in Sulu . . .200

Chapter X.

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

Its Nominal Extent — Its Government — The Sultan — The Viziers
— The Shabandar — The inferior Officers — Their Influence —
“The Abode %f Peace” — Poverty-stricken Gentlemen —
Possessions of the Nobles — The Country parcelled out among
them — Distant Dependencies becoming independent — Op-
pression of the surrounding Districts — Divisions among the
Nobles — Poverty of the Nobles — Population of Brunei —
System of Plunder — Sale of Children — Handsome Brass
Guns — Their Fate — No Justice — Crime nominally punished
— No Possibility of Improvement — Anecdotes — System of
\ Local Self-government — The Parishes — Their Names, and

the Occupation of their Inhabitants — Fishing — Shell Heaps
— Asylum — Treatment of a Slave Girl — Political Parties —
Religious Schism — An attempted Explanation — Followers
of each Party — Difference of Length of Fast Month —
Visiting the Graves of Ancestors — A pretty Custom —
Search after Excitement — Story Tellers — Conjurors — Their
Arts — Practice of Abortion — The Egg-cooking Trick — The
Sultan’s Palace — Its Inhabitants — His Wife and his Con-

XIV

CONTENTS.

cubines — Their Treament — Bold Lovers — Anecdote —
Tragical Termination — The Women deceive their Lords —

The Inverted Language — Education neglected — Sight of a
Harim — Mutual Disappointment — Rajah’s pleasant Com-
panions— Their Customs — Tenacious of Rank — Decay of
Brunei — Exactions suffered by the Aborigines — The Kada-
yans — Tradition — Hill Men united — Commotion — Kada-
yans have great Influence — Lovely Country — Kadayans
removed to Labuan — Short Description of that Colony — •
Excellent Position — Coal — Telegraphic Communication —
Good Effect of our Colony — Trade Increasing — Pepper —
Exports — Cotton — Fine Jungle — Method of Collecting the
Camphor and the Gamboge in Siam — The Coal-fields —
Revenue of the Sultan — Brunei Government no Power —
Crime unpunished — A Bold Thief — Makota and the Fire —
Nominal Punishments — Cutting off the Hand — The Fall of
Ashes — Singing Fish — Curious Method of Catching
Prawns — Tuba Fishing — Superstition — Money — Coinage of
the Capital — Cloth — Iron — Gun-metal — Good Manufactures
of Brass Ordnance — A 12-pounder — Similarity of Customs
— The Sultan — The Heir to his Subjects — Makota and his
Gold . . .244

Chapter XI.

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

First Visit — Appearance of the Country — Scenery — Lovely
Isles — Turtle — Method of securing their Eggs — Their
Enemies — Fish — The Dugong — Method of capturing them
— Graves of Englishmen at Po Point — First Evening in
Borneo — A Welcome to the Rajah — Boats — Salute and
Manning Yards — The Muaratabas Entrance — The River —
The Town of Kuching — Sunset — Arrival — A noisy Pro-
cession— Extent of Sarawak — A well-watered Country —
The Rejang — Extent of fertile Soil adapted to Sugar — Its
Inhabitants — Different Races and Tribes — Population —
Kuching, the Capital — Increase — Trade — Sago Districts —
Cotton — Seed sent by the Cotton Supply Association —
Imported Labour required — Increased Production — Inferior
Cultivation — Soil adapted to most Tropical Productions —

CONTENTS.

XV

Water Communication — Minerals — Coal, Antimony, and
Gold — Indications of other Minerals — Former Condition of
the Country — Difficulties of Management — Forced Trade
— Comfortable Position of the Dayaks — Influence of New
System on the Malays — Distant Voyages — Remarkable
Honesty — Anecdote — System of Government — An un-
teachable Chief — Sons of Patinggi Ali — Their good Con-
duct— Effect of associating the Natives in the Government
— The System introduced into all the Dependencies —
Effect of Sir James Brooke’s Government— Anecdote of an
old Chief — Gradual Development — Necessity for Support —

The Chinese an Industrious and Saving Nation — Sound-
ness in the System of Government — England with a
Chinese Colony — Future of Borneo — Chinese amalgamate
with Native Population — Female Emigration from China —
Administration of Justice — The Sarawak Courts — Charac-
ter of the Malays ........ 280

Chapter XII.

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

Intercourse between China and the Northern Part of Borneo —
References to the Chinese — Names of Places and Rivers —
Sites of Gardens and Houses — One of the original Settlers
— The Sultan’s Recollections — Chinese numerous in his
Youth — Reasons for their Disappearing — Anecdote of a
Murut Chief — Aborigines speaking Chinese — Mixed Breed
— Good Husbands — Chinese at Batang Parak — At Madihit
— Pepper Planters — Origin of the Borneans — Chinese
Features observed also among the Aborigines — Careful
Agriculture — A remnant of Chinese Teaching — Traditions
of a Chinese Kingdom — Effect of Treaty with Brunei —
Unsuccessful attempt to revive Pepper Planting — Chinese
scattering on the North-west coast — A Spark of Enlighten-
ment— Attempt to prevent Intercourse between the Chinese
and Aborigines — Decay of Junk Trade — Cochin Chinese —
Conduct of the Chinese — Papar — Anecdote — Fatal result
of Insulting a Woman — Skirmish — Misrepresented in
Labuan — Question of British Protection to the Chinese —
Their Insolence — Anecdote — Unpleasant Position — A

XVI

CONTENTS.

rAQE

Check — Difficulty of obtaining Information — Cause of
former Disputes — Insurrection of the Chinese of Brunei —
Sarawak — Early efforts of the Chinese to establish them-
selves there — Lawless Malays — A Murder — Retaliation —
Defeat of the Chinese — Arrival of Sir James Brooke —
Mixed Breed in Sambas — Form Self-governing Communi-
ties— Defeat of the Dutch Forces — Subjugation of the
Chinese — The Pamangkat Agriculturists — Flight into
Sarawak — Change in the appearance of the Country —
Mission School — Visit the Interior — Kunsis, or Gold
Companies — Appearance of the Country — Method of Gold-
working — The Reservoir — The Ditch — The Sluice —
Wasteful method of working — Abundance of Gold —
Impetus — Failure of first Agricultural Schemes — A great
Flood — Troublesome Gold- workers — Successful Scheme —
Disturbance in Sambas — Flight of Chinese — Illiberal Regu-
lation— Tour through the Chinese Settlements — Agricul-
ture— Siniawan — Chinese Workings — Hot Spring — Gold at
Piat in Quartz — Antimony Works — Extensive Reservoirs —
Arrival of Chinese from Sambas — Denial by the Kunsi
— Hard Work at the Gold Diggings — Scenery — Path to
Sambas — Chinese Station — Numbers of the Chinese before
the Insurrection ........ 308

Chapter XIII.

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

Secret Societies — Extensive Intercourse — Smuggling — The
Gold Company Fined — Punishment of Three of its Members
— Arrogance of the Kunsi — A Police Case — Real Causes of
the insurrection — An Emissary from the Tien Ti Secret
Society — Reported Encouragement given by the Sultan of
Sambas — Sambas Nobles speak Chinese — Their Nurses —
The Nobles Conspiring — An Emissary arrives in Brunei —
Proposal — Knowledge of the Intended Insurrection — Pro-
posed Attack on the Consulate — The Tumanggong’s
Threat — The Emissary before the Court — Letter from the
Tien Ti Hue — Rumours of Intended Insurrection — Pre-
parations and Inquiries — Commencement of the Revolt —
Useless Warnings — Surprise of the Government House —

CONTENTS.

XVII

Danger of the Rajah — Cowardice of the Chinese — Escape
— Swims the River — Death of Mr. Nicholets — Attacks on
the other Houses — On the Stockade — Gallant Conduct of
Mr. Crymble and the Malay Fortmen — Warm Reception
of the Rebels — Death of a Madman — A Brave Corporal —
Escape of Mr. Crymble — Ilis last Blow — Fortmen again
behave well — Confusion in the Town — Peaceful Assurances
— Attempt to organize a Defence — Panic-striken — De-
parture— Conduct of the People — Next Morning — Killed
and Wounded — The Chinese in Power — The Court-house
— A Check to Joy — Oath of Fidelity — Courage Shown by
Abang Patah — A Blow struck — Second Descent of the
Chinese — A Boat Action — Gallant Attack — Deaths —
Anecdote — The Second Retreat — The Town in Flames —

The Steamer — -The Capital recovered — Pursuit of the
Chinese — They retire to the Interior — Attacks of the Land
Dayaks — Foray of the Chinese — Their Fort taken by the
Datu Bandhar — Pursuit — Disorderly Retreat — Critical
Position — Brave Girls — Pass the Frontier — The Men of the
Kunsi — A Quarrel — Stripped of Plunder — Results of the
Insurrection — Forces at the Disposal of the Sarawak Go-
vernment— Conduct of the People — Disastrous to the
Chinese — New System — Arrival of Armed Chinese from
Sambas — Dutch and English Assistance — Revisit Sarawak
— Change — Conduct of the Rajah — Its Effect on the People
— Secret Society at Labuan — Dangers from the Secret
Societies and their Defenders — Curious Incident — Thought-
ful Care of the Rajah 33 G

Chapter XIV.

THE MISSIONS : ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

Arrival of the Roman Catholic Mission in Labuan — Signor
Cuarteron its Head — Curious Reports — His real History —
Finding the Treasure — Turns Priest — Ostensible Object of
the Mission — Not attempted — Ease with which Captives
could escape — No Inclination to do so — Turned Maho-
medans — Return of Signor Cuarteron — Courtesy of the
Brunei Government — Intentions of the Italian Priest —
Model Village — The Italian Priests — The Churches — Old

XV111

CONTENTS.

Battery — Regret at the Withdrawal of the Roman Catholic
Mission — Protestant Mission at Sarawak — Present Con-
dition— Comparative Failure — Partial Success at Lingga
and Lundu — Mr. Chalmers and the Land Dayaks — Causes
of his Influence — Mistake in establishing the Mission at
Kuching — The Reasons — Objectionable Position for
Schools — Proper Position for the Mission — Suitable Spots
— Waste of Funds in Boats and Plantations — Deplorable
Secession of Missionaries — Reasons to account for it — Pre-
sent Management faulty — Mr. Gomez in Lundu — Christian
Dayaks warn the Government — Missionaries always wel-
come in Sarawak — Important political effect — The Church
should be among the Dayaks — Suitable Men for Mis-
sionaries— What the Head of a Mission should be — What
he too often is, and should not be — Five Recommenda-
tions to increase Efficiency — Unoccupied Room for a great
Increase of the Number of Missionaries — Method of dis-
tributing them — Personal Character- — Dayaks an interest-
ing Race — A Tribe half Mahomedans half Pagans — Use
of eating Pork — Districts unoccupied — Position of the
Missionary in Sarawak — The Bornean Mission an im-
portant one . . . . . ... . . 365

APPENDICES.

Appendix A. — Dayak Languages. Sambas to Batang Lupar . 383
„ B. — Ditto. Batang Lupar to Rejang . . . 392

,, C. — Languages of Tribes between the Rejang and

the Baram ...... 399

„ D. — Languages of Northern Borneo . . . 407

„ E. — Lanun Language . . . • • .417

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.

I. Shooting the Cataract. — Limbang River . Frontispiece

II. The Trunan issuing from the Batu Barit

Mountain . . . . . .To face page 3

III. Hauling past the Rapids .... ,, 70

IV. Murut Bridge. — Tabari’s Village . . „ 123

V. Government House, Sarawak ... ,, 280

VI. Lundu Church ..... „ 370

MAP.

I. Map of the Limbang and Baram Rivers . To face page 1

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$ Mm ftlou) M

'K -,T

LIFE IN THE

FORESTS OF TIIE FAR EAST.

CHAPTER I.

EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR TO TIIE
SOUTH AND SOUTH-EAST OF THE CAPITAL.

Preliminary Expeditions — The Limbang River — Stories connected
■with it — The Madalam — River flowing under a Pile of Rocks —
Caverns — Batu Rikan — The River issuing from under the
Mountain of Molu — Ascend the Precipices — No Water — Long-
Roots — No Soil — Second Expedition — A Flood — Dangerous
Position — Wakeful Night — Beautiful Flowers — Palms and
Rhododendrons — Old Kay an Encampment — Detached Rocks —
Ascent of Molu — Two new Species of Nepenthes — Difficult
Climbing — New Rhododendrons — Stopped by a Precipice —
Sharp-edged Rocks — Descent— Limestone Rock — Cave — Heavy
Rain — Swollen River — Quick Return — Prepare for a distant
Expedition — Alarm of the Brunean Government — Warnings —
Preparations — Boats — My Headman Musa — A Travelled
Dayak — Stories of Molu — Weapons — Merchandise.

In December, 1856, I made a short excursion up the
Limbang River, and the wonders there told of its far
interior strongly excited my curiosity. The natives
were full of stories of the river forcing its way for
miles under huge masses of rock, which formed a
natural tunnel, called by the Malays “ Batu berke-

VOL. II. 1

2

EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE .THE INTERIOR.

jang,” or stone-roofed ; of a cataract formed by the
whole river falling over a ledge of rocks for a depth of
nine fathoms ; of the smooth water beyond this which
stretched for a seven days’ journey, flowing gently
through a vast table-land ; of the tame goats without
masters which thronged this region — but I could find
no one who had seen any of these wonders — in fact,
few Malays had passed Sungei Damit, a river about
three days’ journey from the capital.

In the following September I went with a small party
up the right-hand branch of the river, the Madalam, to
endeavour to reach the lofty mountain of Molu, and
found that one of the stories told by the natives had
some foundation. We followed the Madalam till we
reached the Trunan on the eighth day, up which we
pushed, thinking it led to the base of the highest
peak of Molu. We soon came upon limestone rock,
and after a few miles were suddenly stopped by the
river, I may say, disappearing. We found a rocky
eminence before us, its sharp angles concealed by
ferns and climbing plants falling in festoons around,
and a luxuriant vegetation of trees, whose bark was
coated with mosses, orchids, and other epiphytal
plants. There was an arched cavern into which we
pushed our boats ; at first we failed to find the inlet
through which the stream entered, but at last, looking
down into the clear water, we saw two huge holes
below — the passages from whence the river came.
We went round to the southern side of the rock, and
there we found the river coming purling along to this
lofty wood-crowned mass of limestone, and then enter-
ing a spacious hall it was lost, descending, as it were,

PRELIMINARY EXPEDITIONS.

3

to the passages before mentioned. There were various
chambers with water floors, to the surface of which
fine fish occasionally arose. This place is called Batu
Bikan.

We stayed here a night, during which it rained
heavily, making the stream that yesterday but washed
our ancles, swell so that it was impossible to cross it.
We therefore kept along the right bank, till we
reached the spot where the whole river issued from
the face of the precipice ; it was a fine sight, this
body of water running impetuously from this natural
tunnel. On either side lofty trees arose, and above
the precipice the green verdure spread in masses.

Our Bisayan guide, the Orang Kaya Panglima
Prang;, of the village of Blimhing- told us that during-
fine weather, we could penetrate a long distance under
the mountain, though few had ever ventured to do
so, on account of the very sudden way in which the
water rises. Finding we could not cross the stream
near the mountain, we skirted the precipice, which
the Bisayas told us it was impossible to climb ; but
I determined on making the attempt, not crediting
the truth of one of their objections that we should
find no water on the mountain after the heavy rain
which fell the previous night.

I led the way up the rock by a most difficult ascent,
and after climbing these perpendicular precipices by
means of the roots of trees, at length reached easier
ground, but found the whole mountain a mass of
honey-combed limestone rock, with trees scattered
over the uneven surface, whose roots penetrated to
an immense distance below. I endeavoured, by de-

i—2

4

EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR.

scending into the deep fissures, to find some water,
and in doing so, traced a root above two hundred feet ;
it then entered a narrow crevice, too small to admit
me ; the root was still larger than my arm.

As there is no real soil on the mountain, this fine
vegetation must derive its support from the air, the
moisture in the thick moss, and the rotting leaves
which sometimes lay in tangled damp masses, almost
decayed into a black mould. We climbed about a
thousand feet, hut found no streams or pools, and
were therefore compelled to descend. On our return
to the Capital, we had the misfortune to lose my boat
on a snag, and had a three days’ walk in the jungle
through difficult sandstone mountains, and then we
constructed a raft and floated down the river, till we
met the Orang Kaya Panglima Prang, whom I had
sent for rclievinGT boats.

o

In February, 1858, Mr. Low and I again attempted
the ascent of Molu, taking the Orang Kaya Panglima
Prang as our guide, though neither he nor any one
else knew more of the mountain than they had
gathered during my former journey.

On the sixth day we reached the entrance of the
Madalam without difficulty, and brought up for the
night on a bank of gravel and pebbles, where there were
traces of coal among the hard gray sandstone nodules,
and broken quartz. All the country we had hitherto
seen belongs to the Labuan coal measures, and the
dip is steep, about 45°, and is to the east of north.

In the evening, heavy rain came on, when the river
began to rise rapidly, and rush by us with a strong
current. The men had pitched their tents on the

THE MADALAM.

5

pebbly bank, while we stayed in the boats ; we had
had a heavy day’s work, and our followers were so
fatigued that they fell asleep immediately. The rain
continued pouring down. About two hours after sun-
set I heard a shout, and found the water was over-
flowing the tents, and rushing down the opposite side
of the river like a mill sluice, carrying along with it
huge trunks of trees. With extreme difficulty we
awoke the men, and it was a work of greater diffi-
culty to keep them from getting into the boats before
they were properly secured. I jumped out, and soon
discovered the reason ; the water coming from the
lofty heights of Molu was icy cold ; my teeth chattered
so that I could scarcely give an order, and the river
rose so fast, that very soon it was impossible to remain
on the bank.

We none of us slept that night, our boats swayed
to and fro in the angry waters which now rushed
impetuously over the point, and knowing that we
had but a small rope holding us, we feared every
moment to see it part and find our boats dashed over
a nighbouring fall. In the morning we observed by
rough measurement that the water had risen twenty-
four feet. As the river continued too rapid to be
contended against, we employed next day in manu-
facturing strong rattan ropes. It took us five days
more to reach our camping-ground at the foot of the
mountain, a journey which in ordinary times might
have been done in two.

We passed during our advance up the Madalam
many curious and beautiful plants ; among others, a
very elegant little palm, with finely-divided pinnated

6 EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR.

leaves, and a stem about a foot high ; it grew in tufts
on the banks, within the influence of the rise of the
waters. Mr. Low found also a beautiful climber
with white flowers, in bunches, on the axils of the
leaves, with a very fragrant scent ; and also a curious
rhododendron, with terminal single pale yellow flowers
an inch and a half across on pendent branching
stems, epiphytal in moss on many of the trees over-
hanging the water ; but what I admired most was a
rhododendron with large bunches of straw-coloured
blossoms. It grew' on the trees, and the flower, as it
gracefully bent over us, looked both showy andbeautiful.
Here, too, Mr. Low discovered three new species of
the areca palm, and vras enabled to secure the seeds
of two : one of them had a curious mottled foliage,
another had a dark green stem, with white sheaths to
the leaves, which were most delicately fashioned, the
leaflets being linear, and not more than an eighth
of an inch broad. I may further notice that at the
mouth of the Limbang River grows in the marshes
a beautiful fan-palm, which at a distance might, from
its size, be mistaken for a fine cocoa-nut tree.

We reached the Batu Rikan in safety, and passed
round it, through a small rivulet, improved into a
sort of canal by the Kayans, above which we brought
up at an old Kayan encampment on the left. We
had here a good viewr of the range, which is a mass of
limestone, and the ascent to the summit is at an angle
of 70° ; impossible to ascend over any other kind of
rock than limestone, the water-w’orn surfaces of which
usually present so many prominent points as to render
these precipices practicable. The mountain appears

MOUNTAIN OF MOLU.

7

to be covered with vegetation to the precipitous sum-
mit, and even on the almost bare rocks shrubs could
be seen clinging to the crevices.

Hound the base of the mountain are detached
masses of limestone, much water-worn, with caverns
and natural tunnels, with the ground around covered
by the tracks of pigs and deer. At the base of the
mountain the soil is a yellow loam, with many water-
worn sandstone pebbles on its surface.

I do not intend dwelling on this expedition, as I
only kept an account of the geographical features of the
country, though Mr. Low has kindly placed his inter-
esting journal at my disposal to refresh my memory.
I will, however, briefly indicate the character of the
mountain.

We left our encampment and struck through the
jungle to a spot that a previous examination made
me consider the easiest way to pass the precipices.
The rocks looked like broken masses which had fallen
from above, presenting sharp points and edges danger-
ous to our unshod men. It was climbing, not walking,
our hands being as much used as our feet. We ascended
about 800 feet, when we found ourselves on a sharp
edge with a valley beyond, and then descended about
forty feet by means of roots, and after a painful
advance made preparations to pass the night there, as
our men were lagging. We could, however, nowhere
find a smooth place broad enough to set up our tents ;
so threw poles across the rocks and heaped boughs
and leaves on them, and on sticks above spread our
oiled cotton tents.

We advanced next day over rather easier ground,

8

EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR.

and found more vegetable mould between the rocks ;
the trees were large, and among them I had seen on
the previous day troops of reddish monkeys, equal in
size to the small kind of orang-utan. We could
find no water except such as could be obtained from
squeezing the moss, or from the pitchers of two new
kinds of nepenthes. It was on the third day that
Mr. Low came upon them, after passing a deep gorge,
and up a steep and fatiguing ascent over craggy cliffs,
everything being covered with long wet moss. There
were two kinds ; the specimens, unfortunately, were
lost by the men : — the first was shaped something
like a claret jug, with a quadrilateral stem, and was
of a pale green, except on the inside of the pitcher,
which was purplish — the pitchers themselves were
about ten inches long, and did not show the lower
part in perfection except when full-grown. The next
kind was growing half buried beneath the moss, and
creeping closely along the stems of trees ; its pitchers
had a very peculiar mouth, with an edge like a frill.
Its stem was rough with brown hairs, the leaves
broad and short, and it was distinguished from all
others we had yet seen, by the leaves, which are
close above one another, giving off always to the
right and left, and not on all sides of the stem as in
the other species ; they lie also very close ; its stem
was at most three feet long ; the pitcher was about
nine inches in length, not including the lid.

Mr. Low, the Orang Kaya, and myself, led our
party, but the ascent was getting worse every yard.
We worked our way over the most dangerous places,
where a false step would have broken our necks or

ASCEND THE PRECIPICES.

9

limbs, or have cut us to pieces on the sharp rocks ;
as we advanced, precipices and broad deep fissures
became more frequent, one of the latter we crossed
on a small tree four inches in diameter, which the
Orang Kaya felled for the purpose. It bent beneath
us, and was so uncertain a footing, that I was thank-
ful to have passed it, as the deep chasm below was
filled with jagged rocks. The Malay description of
it is true — “ sharp axes below, and pointed needles
above, such is the mountain of Molu.”

It is curious that although we were only 3,500 feet
above the level of the sea, this region resembled what
is found on Kina Balu at from 5,000 to 8,000 feet,
where shrubs with beautiful flowers abound.

Mr. Low discovered two very interesting little -
rhododendrons here. They were epiphytal, of a
character different from any ho had seen elsewhere ;
they had short brown lanceolate leaves, almost an
inch long, in whorls of four or five, on branching
brownish stems. Their flowers were terminal and
solitary, and about an inch and a half long ; one was
whitish, the other a pinkish purple, and both were
remarkably pretty.

I was leading the way, when I saw a precipice
before me which appeared to be impassable ; it ran
across the spur we were ascending, and extended to the
ravines on either side. At last we noticed a narrow
fissure, and by supporting myself on the sharp points
of rocks, and steadying myself by a small root, I
reached to within six feet of the top. To get up the
rest of the way was not very difficult, but to get down
again appeared unpleasant, and beyond rose a

10 EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR.

succession of precipices. As the side of the moun-
tain was at an angle of 70°, it was easy to see a
long way ahead of us. As I stood balancing myself,
it struck me as an impossibility to take loaded men
up such places, so I hailed Mr. Low, who was already
commencing the ascent of the precipice, to stop till I
came down to consult. Two of my most active men,
Musa and another, volunteered to go ahead and
explore, and we waited for them at the foot of the
precipice, and took observations.

It is almost impossible to conceive the difficulty of
ascending this mountain. While we were waiting
here, a comparatively smooth spot, we could find no
place broad enough for the stand of the barometer,
but were obliged to construct a framework of sticks.
]So ledge was more than six inches broad, and
Mr. Low made me nervous by walking out on some
not an inch wide whilst in search of flowers or shells.
In fact, at one place my shoe was cut through, and
three of our men had already been sent back with
severe wounds, whilst several of those left were much
injured.

Musa at last joined us with the intelligence that
about one hundred yards beyond there was a precipice,
which he and his companion had found it impossible
to pass ; so, very unwillingly, we turned our faces
homeward.

Descending was more dangerous than ascending,
and Mr. Low got two severe falls, as his eyes were
not always on the next spot to place his foot, hut
wandering about in search of plants. I escaped
better, as my thoughts were engrossed by the diffi-

LIMESTONE ROCKS.

11

culties and dangers of the path. It is curious that
when these sharp rocks were struck they gave out
a clear ringing, almost metallic, sound ; there is no
appearance of stratification : the rocks are of a fine-
grained limestone, and some, when broken, pre-
sented a pinkish, others a whitish or grayish blue
colour.

We noticed during our ascent a cave in the lime-
stone rock about forty feet high, and the roots of the
trees growing on the rock above came down perpendi-
cularly and passed into the fissures in the stones that
formed the floor. Their upper parts were encrusted
with carbonate of lime in the form of stalactites.
Water was continually dripping from the roof of the
cave, and in one place had collected in a little basin,
the only time we saw any pure water on the mountain.

The following day we reached our tents and enjoyed
a good dinner, after four days on biscuits and plain
boiled rice. In the evening there came on a thunder-
storm, and the rain fell in a manner I have never
before known even in Borneo ; it appeared to be
coming down in tubsfull instead of drops.

We attempted next day to go and examine the
Batu Bikan, but the rush of waters prevented our
approaching it ; in fact, the roar of the river, as it
dashed into the caves and whirled its spray into the
air, made us take precautions not to be swept into
the boiling cauldron.

Our return was easy, as the river had risen enough
to cover all the rapids, so that their presence was only
marked by the increased velocity of the water; but
when we joined the Limbang it became more sluggish,

12

EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR.

and after Sungei Damit its speed had lessened from
five knots to one knot per hour.

These preliminary expeditions accomplished, having
heard that I could procure Murut guides, I determined
to explore the main stream of the Limbang, which
evidently penetrated a long distance into the interior.
The ostensible object of the expedition wras to reach
those Muruts who formerly lived upon the Adang,
one of the tributaries of the Limbang, but had
now been driven away beyond the mountains by re-
peated attacks of the Kayans. This was very vague
information, but it was the best I could procure.

The Bornean Government, on hearing of my inten-
tion to start, was filled with uneasiness, and earnestly
requested me to forego my intention. The Sultan
and Bafigeran Tumanggong were especially anxious,
as they feared some accident would happen ; they
talked of the head-hunting Kayans, the wandering
Pakatans with their poisoned arrows, the interior
filled with strange aborigines wTho had never seen
a white man or even a Malay, and the dangers of
the river that imperilled our boats, and the wander-
ings in the jungle that threatened starvation. The
last two were especially dwelt upon, as they reminded
me of my former misadventure in returning from Molu.
They little thought that their descriptions of the
interior (from hearsay) only added to my desire to be
away exploring. I knew that all the threatened
dangers really existed, but I determined to take every
precaution, and trust the rest to that fortune which
had ever befriended me in my former journeys.

It being uncertain how long I might be away, it

A TRAVELLED DAYAK.

13

was necessary to take a large supply of food and
ammunition. We prepared two boats, and both were
heavily laden ; the first was a garei, a long canoe
with raised sides and regular timbers, forty-five feet
by five, flat-bottomed, not drawing above eighteen
inches, with all her crew and stores on board. She
was commanded by a man I have often had occasion
to mention, Musa, a native of the Philippines, not
above five feet one inch in height, but sturdily and
strongly built. The crew consisted of ten men, half
of whom were tried followers. An accompanying
tender, containing six men, was only suited for
smooth water, being totally unfitted for the rapids
we should find in the interior, but it was our in-
tention to change it when we reached the Murut
villages.

In this boat was Japcr, the most remarkable man of
the whole party. I met him at the village of Blimbing
during my first attempt to ascend Molu, and he was
full of stories. I learned that he belonged originally
to the wandering Pakatans, but had been converted
to Islamism. He appeared to have been quite a
traveller, having visited Penang, Malaka, Batavia,
and Sarawak. He was familiar with the English
conquest of Java, and talked fluently of Lord Minto.
I had been so accustomed to look upon the great
French war as a thing of the past, that I could
scarcely bring myself to believe that this man could
have seen Lord Minto at Malaka or Penang- in 1811,
but considering he was at least sixty-three when I
first saw him in 1857, there was really nothing sur-
prising in it.

14 EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR.

He also abounded with accounts of Molu : having

' o

been at its base several times, though he had never
attempted to ascend it. But he told us stories
of the dwarfs who inhabited the caves, of big eggs
which ten men could not lift ; but what particularly
fixed the attention of his native audience was the
account of a sight witnessed by a Tutong man. He
said that one dav he was seeking edible nests in holes
round the base of the mountain, when, being tired,
he fell asleep in a cleft in the side of a large cavern.
He was awoke by lights flashing in his eyes, and
peering from his hiding-place, saw a long procession
of supernatural beings pass slowly by him, each carry-
ing a torch, and there was one to whom they all paid
respect. He was too frightened to remember the
particulars, but he thinks they were dressed in flowing
robes.

Some of my men were in hopes these fearful stories
would have deterred me from my design to explore
the mountain ; but on my offering a reward to any one
who would take me to the cave where these wonderful
sights were seen, they saw ghosts did not daunt
white men.

I took with me, also, my Chinese boy, Ahtan, to
cook and wait upon me ; he had behaved so well
during our Kina Balu expeditions that I liked him to
follow me.

As we might meet enemies we prepared a good
stock of arms and ammunition. I took two double-
barrels, one rifle, and one smooth bore — for general
service in Borneo the latter is the best weapon of all —
a single-barrelled rifle, an Adams’s revolving carbine,

PRECAUTIONS.

15

and a revolving pistol ; for the men four long carbines,
and a dozen flint muskets ; the last we found much
too heavy for carrying through the forests, and too
cumbersome for boats.

Not knowing what kind of people we might meet,
I embarked merchandise of many kinds — hatchets,
cloths (yellow, black, red, and white), looking-glasses,
agate and common beads ; in fact, four times as much
as was necessary. My instruments, tents, and bag-
gage, were both weighty and occupied much room,
' so that when the crew entered the boat, with five-
and-twenty days’ provisions on hoard, its gunwales
were not many inches above the water.

16

CHAPTER II.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

Start — Discovery of Bones and ancient Ornaments — At the Site of
the Old City — At the Stone Fort — At Sarawak — The Trusan,
or connecting Passage — Apathy of the Government and People
— Sago — Method of preparing it for the Market — The Limbang
River — The Inhabitants — Winding Stream — The Orang Kaya
Upit of Kruei — Sampirs — Gadong Hill — Scenery — Molu — The
Raman Palm — Delays — Cholera — Orang Kaya Napur — Pang-
lima Prang — The Weather — State of the River — Origin of the
Ponds — Native Geographical Information — The Upper Country
— Cataract — Enchanted Mountain — Native Travelling — Dreams
and Omen Birds — Religion of Pakatans — Cause of Head-
hunting— The Wild Boar — Trouble in procuring Guides —
Pengkalan Tarap — Desolation of the Country — Causes of it —
Selling Children — Kayan Barbarity— Chinese at Batang Parak
— Site of Burnt Villages — Posts of Houses — Two kinds of Sago
Palm — Their Growth — Kayan Encampment — Cultivation — The
River- — Rocks — Salt Springs — Native Explanation — Anecdote
— Time to halt — Birds — Rare, except in certain Districts —
Monkeys — Alligators — The Man-eater — A Challenge accepted
— Disappearance of the Siol Alligator — Combat with two in a
Cave — Method of Capturing them in Siam — Laying Eggs in
the Jungle — Ducks and Drakes — Malay Cookery — Very tasty
— Bachang — How to make a Curry — Anecdotes of Bornean
Rule — Attack on the Limpasong Village — Insurrection of the
Aborigines — Forced Trade — Qualities necessary in a Malay
Ruler — The great Mountain of Tilong — Discomfort of possess-
ing a large Diamond — Diamonds found in Borneo.

August 25th, 1858. — We started, and as we pulled
through the town in the early morn crowds came to
their doors to have a look at what they no doubt con-
sidered as a doomed party.

DISCOVERY OF ANCIENT ORNAMENTS.

17

Our route, after leaving the houses, was up the
Brunei river, till we reached a Trusan, or passage, *
connecting it with the Limbang. We soon left the
pretty scenery near the capital, and exchanged for it
low hanks, with mangrove swamp, occasionally varied
by undulating dry land. After a two hours’ pull, we
passed the graves of some rajahs on the left-hand
bank ; near them, it is reported, a great many hones
are found scattered about ; the natives say it was
the site of a battle-field ; gold ornaments are also
occasionally discovered, but slightly covered with
soil ; it is very probable that a village once stood
here.

These discoveries of ancient ornaments are events
of not unfrequent occurrence. Some seven years ago
a man was prawn-fishing with a casting-net, about
two miles below the consulate, when he found some
gold buttons entangled among the prawns; lie instantly
marked the place, and dived, and found several articles ;
the news spread like wildfire, and hundreds flocked to
the spot ; the mud was dug over in the neighbour-
hood to the depth of several feet, and the river raked
with great care ; it is reported that a large amount
was found. I afterwards examined the spot ; it
proved to be the site of the ancient city of Burnei, of
which Pigafetta speaks ; it is now called Kota Batu,
or the stone fort, on account of the foundations of
some buildings that have been uncovered there. I
must confess to great disappointment when I visited
them ; these ancient remains consisted of nothing hut

* Trusan, means a passage connecting one stream with another,
or a short cut joining two reaches of the same stream.

VOL. II.

2

18

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

loose stones thrown into a long ditch about eighteen
feet wide.

Great quantities of gold ornaments have likewise
been discovered at the Santubong entrance of the
Sarawak river ; this was likewise the site of an old
town. I tried on my last visit to find some to
examine the workmanship, but most had been melted
up, and the specimens purchased by Sir James Brooke
were lost during the Chinese insurrection of 1857-

Half an hour afterwards wTe reached the Trusan,
and entered it on our w ay to the Limbang ; it took us
two hours and a half to get through ; the banks are
low, at first mangrove, then slight openings showing
small padi fields, then sago with lofty fruit-trees in
the background. Nothing better exemplifies the
character of this people and government than the
Trusan we were passing through ; in a straight line
the distance cannot be three miles, yet nothing is
done even to clear it of the obstruction of fallen trees,
overhanging branches, and sharp turnings ; occasion-
ally it is not above six feet wide ; hundreds pass
through it every day ; and though they have often to
wait hours till the tide has risen sufficiently to float
them over the obstructions, they will not combine to
clear it : fifty men in a week could render it passable
for large boats at half-tide, hut there is no government
for useful purposes, and no combination among the
people.

We were very glad to get clear of this Trusan, and
enter into an open space, a sort of long narrow lake
connected with the main river by diminutive passages,
enclosing the island of Pandam, a dense mass of sago-

THE ISLAND OF PANDAM.

19

trees. Here there is some sign of life, many houses
are scattered on the banks whose inhabitants are busy
preparing the pith of the palm for transmission to
the capital. We saw them to-day going through
every stage, some were felling the tree, others clearing
it of all its leaves and branches and dragging it to the
water’s edge ; rafts of prepared palms were floating
down alone, but with certain marks to distinguish
the owners. We landed at one spot and inquired the
reason of this unusual bustle ; the price had risen,
and every one was anxious to take advantage of the
market.

We had around us about a dozen men working ;
the trees, some of them fifty feet in length by two
and a half in diameter, were first cut in sections of
about a fathom, then split in two ; the pith was
scooped out, or rather chopped out with a scoop,
as it was very hard and required great exertion to
get it out ; the women and children carried it to the
river’s banks to a prepared framework, and threw the
rough sago on a platform of split bamboos : here a
man stood who, after wetting the stuff with pails’ full
of water, trod out the flour into a receptacle below.
It seemed a very wasteful process. The coarse sago
is put into leaf cases and sold to the Chinese, who
turn it into the flour and pearl of commerce.

Leaving the island of Pandam wre joined the main
stream, which was here about a hundred yards wide ;
the banks as we advanced presented the same features,
low, with occasional hills to be seen, cultivation
very rough and careless ; the sago and rice the
most valuable ; the gardens were but poorly looked

2—2

20

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

after, the chief attention being given to the banana.
Occasionally there are very extensive groves of fruit-
trees, but even these are choked with brushwood.
Tame buffaloes are very numerous on the lower part
of this river ; we also saw a few cows, but until lately
little attention was given to breeding them ; now, how-
ever, that a steady demand has arisen in Labuan, many
of the natives have been induced to collect herds.

After passing the Trusan no more Malay houses
are to he seen ; the inhabitants being the aborigines,
the Bisayas, Muruts, and a few Kadayans ; their villages
occupy nearly every reach. A glance at the map will
show what a winding course this river takes ; the soil
being alluvial offers no obstruction to its changing its
direction, and there are many signs of its having
altered its bed.

We pulled on to the village of Kruei (Argus
pheasant), the residence of Orang Kaya Upit, a son
of one of the Adang people, who had promised to
accompany us. I had with me a chop or firman from
the Sultan, in order to render my procuring guides a
work of less difficulty, but, though not refusing, the
Orang Kaya was unwilling to start immediately. It
would have been very unreasonable of me to have
expected a man to be ready at a day’s notice, but this
Orang Kaya had settled for some months to accom-
pany me. I agreed to stay a day, as I wished to pro-
cure a couple of light boats ; in the evening a
messenger arrived from the Sultan with orders for
every assistance to be given me.*

* I may remark liere that the map I had with me had been con-
structed during my former journeys, and I verified it as I proceeded.

THIS GADONG HILLS.

21

2 Qth. — As this was a day of enforced delay I deter-
mined to divide my men; some, under Musa, I sent
away to purchase or borrow boats, called here sampirs ;
they are long and narrow, being simply a canoe, with
a plank on either side tied on with rattans and then
roughly caulked ; they have a front and stem piece
fastened in the same way ; they are not strong, but
are light and very suited to up-country work, vary-
ing in length from thirty to sixty feet, and in breadth
from one and a half to three feet : as might he

expected, they are anything but stiff.

While Musa was away on this duty, I pulled hack
to the Gadong hills to take bearings. I was dis-
appointed in not being able to distinguish Molu, but
I had some good views of other mountain ranges.
The appearance of the country from this elevation
(682 feet) was very pretty ; to the east of us were
alternate diminutive plains and low hills, with rice
fields whose bright green contrasted well with the
sombre brushwood ; farmhouses were scattered here
and there ; to the west it was hut a confused mass of
hills and valleys. The course of the river is clearly
visible, with its extraordinary windings and its
patches of cultivation scattered along its banks ; even
here in the neighbourhood of the capital two-thirds
of the land is still jungle or brushwood.

Towards evening Musa returned, and I was glad
to find that he had arranged to buy a sampir and
borrow twro more, and to leave our canoe behind.

2 7th. — This morning the peak of Molu was visible,
and I immediately went ashore to get a good hearing,
as the boat rocked too much to allow me to do it

22

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

aboard. I find it 9° E. of S. The Adang Muruts
give the name of Batu Barit to the mountain, or to
one peak of it ; Barit is the same as the Malay
“ berlukis,” ornamented ; they say they call it by that
name on account of some tracings observed on the
rocks, probably fanciful, or from the stone being dis-
coloured in various parts of the precipices. They
talk also of a very large palm, the Biman, that grows
in great plenty at the foot of the mountain ; this
yields in abundance a very superior kind of sago, but
hanicik, u much,” has a very different signification in
their mouths, it may mean a few trees scattered about,
or a forest of palms.

Yesterday the Orang Kaya Upit went in search of
the Merasam people, who had agreed to accompany
the expedition ; they are full of delays, but talk of
following to-morrow : I shall push on to look for
other guides in case these fail us ; every day’s delay
lessens our stock of food ; I have tried to procure
some rice in these villages, but nothing is to be had.
In fact, they will seldom sell me any food, as the
Borneans would make that an excuse to squeeze more
out of them after my departure. The Orang Kaya
has begged for one of my sampirs, and as it is on my
business he is going, the request is but reasonable, so
I have given him one, and also some cloth to procure
provisions.

We pushed on at 9 a.m., and as we advanced we
found all the villages deserted on account of the
cholera ; the visitation was nearly over, but the
Muruts were too alarmed to return to their houses ;
as no one was to be found at Bidang, the residence of

DELAYS — CHOLERA.

23

the Orang Kaya Napur, an Adang man, we con-
tinued our course to Danau, where it was said we
should find him ; but on arriving, we heard that he
was some distance inland ; I therefore sent old J aper
to look for him.

5 p.m. — Here is the Orang Kaya Napur, but there
is evidently no getting him to accompany us ; he has
many reasons for not going, some of them good ones ;
among others, he is planting his rice farm. I ex-
plained I only wanted a guide, not a train of fol-
lowers. Towards evening my old friend Orang Kaya
Panglima Prang, of the village of Blimbing, came
to see me ; he followed me to Molu in both of my
former expeditions, and is half inclined to come now,
but as he does not know the country beyond six days’
pull, he would not be very useful. He has deserted
Blimbing, having too few followers to hold his own
even against a small Kayan expedition, and so now he
lives here until the Pangeran Tumanggong can afford
him some support, not very likely to be given at present.
The cholera has attacked all the villages, but does not
seem to have carried off many ; the fright was great,
and still continues, so that most of the people are
yet living in the woods. All those who do not
expect to be connected with my expedition, say that
this is the proper season, and that the rain is
exceptional, while the others whom I want to accom-
pany me, assure me that by waiting two months I
shall Have fine weather. It certainly looks rainy, but we
must do our best even if freshes do come down, and
we may yet reach Adang by perseverance. This
place is called Danau, on account of a diminutive

24

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

lake, or large pond, that lies at the back of the
village ; the entrance, now dry, is at the end of the
reach ahead.

28 th. — Last night a heavy squall, which appeared to
spring from the south-east, hut soon veered round to
the south-west, made me fear a fresh in the morning,
but (7 a.m.) as yet it has not come down upon us.
There is much matter held in suspension by the
water, as every glass of it we take from the river
proves ; this, however, appears its normal state, as
I have seen it the same at different seasons, as
in October, November, December, May, and now,
August not exactly the same, as the water after
heavy freshlets is muddy. The banks appear to be
generally formed of alluvial deposits ; occasionally
only have I observed hard banks of clay, and nowhere
are there rocks, except where a hill abuts on the river.
At the entrance of the Limbang there are many
alluvial deposits, and two low islands called Pulau
Bharu, or the new islands, are said by the natives to
have been formed within the memory of their old
men ; they are but little raised above high-water
mark, and are excellent rice grounds.

A glance at the map will show the serpentine
course of the Limbang, and how the river is eating
into its banks ; in several places they are nearly worn
through. I imagine (and examination almost con-
firms it) that the origin of the numerous ponds to be
found a short distance from the banks arises from the
alteration of the river’s bed. There is in the Sarawak
river a short cut between two reaches, which appears
within a few years likely to become the main stream —

NATIVE GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION. 25

nature assisted by man : sandbanks are already form-
ing which yearlv tend to increase the force of the
current through the short passage, and will doubtless
ultimately close up the old channel, leaving a lake of
a couple of miles in length on the right hank.

I may here notice, in order to test the value of
native geographical information, the various accounts
I have received of the journey before us. Casting
aside the stories of its being one, two, or three
months’ distance, I will simply enter what I have
reduced to something like reason. They say from
Blimbing to Madalam is two days’ pull ; to Salindong,
two ; to Madihit, two ; to Busoi or Saledan, three ;
to Adang, seven, or sixteen days from the last in-
habited village (since abandoned) to the Adang land-
ing-place : from that to the houses, from one to six
days.

I do not understand the great discrepancy in the
land journey, except that the Adangs have removed
farther inland. It is certainly a voyage of discovery,
but my only anxiety is with respect to the provisions.
From the amount of water that was in the river above
Madalam, I cannot think it so far. Busoi appears to
mean a cataract, and there, they say, the river falls
over rocks, and the boats have to be dragged along
the shore for a distance which varies with the stories
from fifty yards to a mile. Enormous over-hanging
rocks occur at the cataract, almost shutting in the
river, but above it the water is smooth, and the pull-
ing easy for seven days ; this is not very likely. The
river is said to abound in fine fish. The story of the
wild goats is beginning to fade away, and is replaced

26

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

by tame ones in the possession of the Muruts. One
of the greatest curiosities, the natives say, is the for-
mation of two mountains, which rise from the plain
in lofty peaks of the shape of needles ; they have
never been to them, but have seen them from a dis-
tance ; they are the pillars of the gate of some
enchanted palace, and I heard it whispered to one of
my men that all were not privileged to see even these
pillars ; it requires some incantation ; so that there is
a chance of the needle mountains vanishing into thin
air.

I may remark that when the natives speak of the
journey sometimes occupying two or three months,
they mean for a Murut party. The reason is that
they start with, perhaps, two days’ provisions, and
trust to hunting for their food. If they find a spot
where game is plentiful, they stay there till it is ex-
hausted; if the jungle produce no sport, they live on
the cabbages taken from the palms, on the edible
fern, on snakes, or anything, in fact, that they can
find. If they come across bees’ nests, they stop to
secure the wax and honey. Time is of no value to
them, as they generally start after the harvest, and
many parties are said to have taken six months.

It is curious to hear the Islam-converted old
Pakatan Japer talk. He says dreams were sent by
God to be a teaching and a warning to us ; wdien he
is going up a river on an expedition, if he dream of
his wife or of his children, or of ascending a river, it
is good ; if of descending a river, or of fire, or of
anything disagreeable, he is sure to meet an enemy or
some misfortune. If his angei, or omen bird, cry to

JAPEr’s STORIES.

27

tlic rifrht, it is good luck ; his cried to the right when
he left Ivanowit eight years ago, and he has not had
a misfortune since. I asked him how it came to pass
then that his house was plundered and burnt down hy
the Kayans last year ; he was silenced for a moment,
and having waited till the men had had their laugh, ho
said his people considered it a punishment for living
among the bad Tabuns :* however, the Pakatans have
avenged him by burning down a Kayan village.

It is two p.m., and no sign of Orang Kaya Upit
yet ; this delay is very provoking, as we can get no
provisions here. Last night, at six, I sent a party
with Orang Kaya Napur down the river to find Kada-
yan, an Adang man, and try and induce him to follow
us ; he promises to come in the morning. We had a
long talk last night about various matters. Old
Japer was telling us of the belief of the wild tribes.
Having been converted, however, he laughs at the
follies of his countrymen, and therefore spoils his
narration. His conversion, however, is but skin deep.
He says they believe in antus, or spirits, one of whom
is far greater than the rest ; he it was who “ made
the woods, the mountains, and the streams, and is
above all and over all.” The Pakatans call him
Guha, the Kayans, Totadungan.

He denies that head -hunting is a religious
ceremony among them ; it is merely to show their
bravery and manliness, that it may be said so
and so has obtained heads ; when they quarrel, it

* The Murut tribe, who formerly inhabited the Madalam branch
of the Limbang, and occupied the country round the base of the
mountain of Molu.

28

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

is a constant phrase, “ How many heads did your
father or grandfather get ? ” If less than his own
number, “ Well, then, you have no occasion to be
proud ! ” That the possession of heads gives them
great consideration as warriors and men of wealth ;
the skulls being prized as the most valuable of goods.
“ Alas ! when I was a Kapir (infidel) I took more
than forty heads,” hypocritical sorrow, hut real pride,
in his tone. He adds that hunting is the greatest
pleasure of the wild tribes, and that the wild boar is
exceedingly fierce, and makes a good fight ; it requires
much skill to conquer him. “ It is a delight for me
to look back on my hunting days.” The China trader
that lives at the Pangkalan Tarap came and promised
his assistance in getting sago, which we must use as a
substitute for rice.

29 tli. — A little rain last night, and a dirty-looking
morning. No OrangKaya Upit. We are now oppo-
site the Chinaman’s house. I shall push on to-morrow
morning, guide or no guide, and trust to their follow-
ing us.

2 p.m. — Kadayan and a companion have come,
and promise to be guides, but as they have to return to
their houses, I have no confidence that they will fol-
low, but only cause us fresh delays ; however, as I
have obtained a pikul* of raw sago, and seven gan-
tangsf of beans, I can better afford to wait. They
put every difficulty in the way, and lie like troopers as
to the distance, declaring it to be a journey of six
months for us who take food ; they say, also, that they
are in debt at Adang, and in debt here. I have

* A pikul is 133yib. f A gantang is six pints.

PANOKALAN TARAP.

29

given each a piece of blachu,* to buy food for their
families ; and I have sent a crew away to try and
borrow a couple of sampirs.

30 th. — This morning the lazy Orang Kaya Upit
joined us with three men ; their omen bird, they said,
had uttered a warning cry, and they had been unable
to join me before, an excuse to which I am now some-
what used.

I am going to try and perform the journey in my
own garei, as I can find no more sampirs at these
villages to buy or borrow, and with a little extra
trouble she will do, and be twice as comfortable for
me. Were we to he utterly stopt, the men say we
can make some bark canoes for those that cannot get
into the sampirs.

Pangkalan Tarap is becoming an important village,
as by orders of the Pahgeran Tumanggong the people
are collecting there to show a better fight to the Kayans,
and now number “ two hundred men who can hold a
shield.” The detached house system, so progressive
with security, does not answer in a country exposed to
periodical incursions. It is lamentable to see this fine
district, once well cultivated, now returning to brush-
wood ; formerly, when the population extended a
hundred miles beyond the last village at present inha-
bited, the supply of provisions was ample for Brunei ;
now that the Muruts are decreasing, while Brunei is
perhaps as numerous as ever, the demands made are
too great even for native forbearance, and in disgust
they are gradually abandoning all garden cultivation ;
already brushwood is taking the place of bananas
* Gray shirtings.

30

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

and yams ; few of either can now be had. The people
say it is useless for them to plant for others to eat
the whole produce.

The aborigines must gradually disappear from
this river if the same process continues, as with
food becoming daily scarcer, the area of cultivation
continually lessened, as they fear to move far from
their houses except in large armed parties, on ac-
count of the head-hunting Kayans, their powers of
natural increase must be stopped ; add to this their
losses from cholera, small-pox, and the enemy, and
we have sufficient data to speculate on their eventual
extermination from the Limbang. They are gradually
retreating down the river ; twenty miles of bank have
been abandoned during the last two years.

Nor must it he omitted, that as the nobles arc
yearly less enabled to obtain supplies from them, they
are selling their children by dozens into slavery, which
enables Brunei to keep up its population. Directly
they arrive there, they are circumcised, and from that
moment care no more for their tribes, whom they
despise as infidels, and they then may be said to have
joined the ranks of the oppressors. No lad could
well refuse to turn Mahomedan ; he would be teased
to death by his companions, and if he long retained
any affection for his family, he would be ashamed to
show it. Generally they are taken away young, and
the girls added to the numerous concubines of the
rajahs : after a year or two they get tired of them,
and <nve them in marriage to their followers.

At the back of this village is a large pond, and
beyond there is another of far greater extent, which

SITE OF BURNT VILLAGES.

31

they consider a great protection against surprise. I
am nursing my feet, much knocked about in ascend-
ing Kina Balu, so do not land to examine. Obtained
two pikuls more of sago.

We are pulling up quietly ; passed Pangkalan
Jawa. The Limbuak peak bears about W. by S. At
the back of the houses, at the foot of the Ladan
range, Orang Kaya Kiei and bis family were cut
off in a farmhouse by the Kayans last February.
The Kayans set fire to the rice stalks under the
house, and as the family rushed out they were killed ;
a few, who either saw the fall of their companions,
or were bewildered by the smoke, stayed in the house
and were burnt to death ; ten women and children
lost their lives. The mode of death is conjectured
from finding seven headless trunks at the doorway,
and four bodies charred, without losing their heads.
The summit of the Ladan range presents many
instances of extensive landslips. Stayed for bear-
ings at Tampasong. I find but few changes will he
necessary in my previous map, in fact, except in the
position of the ranges, which I am carefully taking,
it will not he essentially improved as far as refers to
the direction of the reaches ; but as to their length,
I think many we have passed to-day will require
shortening. We were here joined by Kadayan and
Si Nuri, two Adang men.

5 p.m. — I am delighted to find myself at Batang
Parak, long past the last houses, and above sixty
miles from Brunei. Batang Parak was formerly
inhabited by Chinese, who cultivated pepper ; the
Malays say that they gradually died out, no fresh

32

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

immigrants coming to recruit their strength, and
some of the older Muruts remembered them well, and
could repeat their names. Casual observations, how-
ever, prove that the above was not the way in
which the Chinese always disappeared, as on passing
the Madalam, a Bisaya chief pointed to a hill ;
formerly, he said, the Chinese built a fort there, hut
they were attacked and all killed.

But to return. I can now settle matters myself,
and have nobody to wait for. At about four, the
rain and wind came in great force from the S.W.,
which is a little unpleasant, but I hope it will not
affect the river above the Madalam. Slight rain
continues. The men are on shore, searching for
vegetables, pumpkins, cucumbers, and fruit at the
site of the Tabun village, burnt down last year
by the Kayans. The plants grew up in great strength
round the ruins, and afford supplies to every visitor.
This is the fourth time we have helped ourselves,
but to-day the pig-hunters having been before us,
there are but few left. The fruit-trees are covered
with a young crop, but none are ripe ; everything,
however, is eagerly appropriated by my men, who
have brought but little to eat with their rice. I
leave off my journal to turn to a miserable dinner
of dried fish and stale bread, there being no time
to cook, but a bottle of porter made it palatable.

I noticed when passing the deserted village of
Blimbing, which was formerly the residence of my
old friend, the Orang Kay a Panglima Prang, that
even the old posts of the houses were removed ; the
reason is this, that being made of iron wood they

TWO KINDS OF SAGO PALM.

33

will last for a century. In fact, in many of the
villages they have them, descended, it is said, from
a long line of ancestors, and these they remove with
them wherever they may establish themselves. Time
and wear have reduced many of them to less than five
inches in diameter, the very heart of the tree, now
black with age and exposure.

When I first ascended the Limbang, and spent
a few days at the village of Blimbing, I found a large
party of armed men assembled who were preparing to
collect sago palms, which grow in immense forests at
the foot of the Ladan range. They fell the palms
there, and clearing them of leaves, drag them to the
hanks of the small streams, and float them to the
village. They always say there are two species of
sago palms, one covered with thorns, the other free ;
the former is more safe from the attacks of wild pigs,
the latter perhaps more productive. Nature has
indeed stocked these countries with easily acquired
food, as this palm, for instance, though improved
by cultivation, will yet reproduce itself in extraordi-
nary abundance.

After the first three or four years, the freshly
planted palm is surrounded by smaller ones springing
from its roots, so that when the time has arrived
to secure its sago, which is after about eight years,
there is a crop of young ones approaching maturity ;
in fact, in a well managed and old established plan-
tation, a tree can yeaidy be cut from the same clump.
The natives know directly when the palm is ripe by
the appearance of the flower, but if it be allowed to
fruit, the whole pith is spoilt for the purposes of

VOL. it. • 3

34

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

commerce. At present tlie trees in these districts
are seldom permitted to pass their fifth year, as the
aborigines fear to penetrate far into the forests, and
trust to those which grow near the banks of the
river.

31s£. — Got away this morning at 6.20, and arrived
at the end of the west reach, beyond Sungei Damit at
9.25. Just above Sungei Damit is the site of the
great Kayan encampment. A force of above three
thousand of these wild warriors, in March and April,
1857, kept the capital in a state of great alarm : and
near here also, on the left bank, is a famous fish-pond,
Luagan Kura, and on its banks are some grassy
slopes, where the Tambadaus, or wild cattle, love to
congregate. I may mention that Mr. De Crespigny
reached this spot in 1857.

There is little to notice, except that .the banks are
generally flat, fringed with a low jungle, at the back
of which the Muruts formerly farmed. A stranger
passing up the river would be apt to infer that no
population had tenanted this district for a century,
as there are no signs of cultivation, but the natives
generally prefer farming in spots not exposed to floods
or intrusion. I have been out deer-snaring in this
neighbourhood, which made me notice that at the
back of the belt of jungle which lines the river banks
there are signs of a former extensive rice-planting.

Sagan on the right hank is a fine hill, perhaps
1,500 feet in height; between it and Sungei Damit is
the low range of Rudi, running along the edge of one
of the reaches, and terminating a little below the Damit.
This tributary is now very low, there having been but

SALT SPRINGS.

35

little rain to the S. E., so that I hope the discoloured
water of the Limbang comes from the Madalam
branch. The water, however, is much higher than
it was when we ascended the river last February, as
the Batang rapids are concealed ; these rapids arc
caused by a collection of logs, mixed with sand and
mud, and extend for several hundred yards.

I noticed the rocks occasionally cropping out of the
banks. At the mouth of the Damit I took the dip and
strike : dip N. E. by N., angle 31*5 ; strike S. E. by E.
There is a high peak to the southward (S. by E.) which
is apparently the end of the Molu range ; it bends, the
natives say, towards the Limbang : if not, it is a
separate range, but the same that I see from the
back of the Consulate at Brunei. I think that the
thousands of pigs which inhabit this jungle contribute
to the discoloration of the water : every night they
descend to the banks and rout up the soft mud into
heaps, which are easily washed away by rain or the
rise of the river.

The fish we have caught arc all small, though there
are fine ones in the centre of the stream where the
net cannot be used : we see them occasionally rise to
the surface, causing a great commotion.

Japer tells me that the people of Adang occasion-
ally obtain their salt from traders of the east coast,
but their usual supply is derived from salt springs, and
this is confirmed by Orang Kaya Upit. Japer adds
that, when head-hunting round the great mountain of
Tilong, in the centre of Borneo, he saw a salt spring
that burst from the ground in a volume of about
fifteen inches in diameter, rising three feet, and then

3—2

36

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

spreading in a shower around : this is the source, he
says, of the Bangermasin, and the reason of its being
so called ( masin , briny). He thinks there must be a
passage all the way from the sea to cause this salt
spring, and no reasoning will convince him to the
contrary : his companions confirm his belief by their
implicit belief. There is also a large lake at the foot
of Tilong ; he saw it, but did not go near it, as it
might he the residence of spirits.

At 1 1 .20 we again got under weigh, and soon
reached Naga Surei, the first stone rapid : to the
Orang Kaya Upit this place had a fearful interest ;
some years since about a hundred of his countrymen
came down the river to trade in wax, and on their
return stopped at this pebbly hank to cook, and while
a party went inland to hunt, others collected wood.
Suddenly three or four hundred Kayans came sweep-
ing round the point, and were on them before they
could recover from their surprise ; seventy lost their
lives, but thirty escaped.

We stopped for the night at 1.45, as the men
pulled too late yesterday, and we must prepare for
the rapids and freshes that may be expected : so I
have sent them in inland to collect poles, and rat-
tans for making ropes to secure us at night during
freshes. It is a good plan whilst travelling in Borneo
to make it a general rule to stop by 2 p.m., as one is
never sure of not having showery weather after that,
and unless the men have proper time to erect the
tents and prepare the evening meal whilst fine, they
don’t work willingly. (This journey will show what
exceptions are required to general rules.) The sky

BIRDS.

37

is covered with broken clouds, with occasional patches
of blue. I am afraid we shall have more rain, and
the river is high enough already, though that is
better than being very low until we get into the
interior, where the rush of waters after heavy rain is
terrific.

I think a traveller in Borneo will notice how few
spots there are where birds are to he observed ; whilst
writing this line a little bird has perched itself before
me, and by its song would induce me to alter what
I have written, but notwithstanding this appeal, I
reiterate that birds are hut seldom seen. At certain
hours and places a few pigeons or doves, more rarely
crows ; along the hanks an occasional wagtail or king-
fisher, and a songster in the trees above sometimes
attracts your attention. A solitary teal now and
then rises from the least frequented rivers, and
the kite sails slowly ahovo us.

Hornbills are seen round mountains, and sparrows
abound in grassy plains near the sea ; some species are
now and then abundant, as a white crane (padi bird,
or Kanawei), and various kinds of curlew (pimpin),
but on the whole, birds are rare. In some districts
pheasants and partridges are caught in snares, hut as
they are birds which merely run along the surface of
the ground, flying being almost out of the question in
the thick underwood, they are only noticed when
brought in by the natives. Monkeys in the northern
part of Borneo are also rarely observed. In the Lim-
bang river I have seen hut few : an occasional baboon,
a few wawahs in the Madalam branch, and a large
reddish monkey at about 1,000 feet up Molu. At

38

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

Kina Balu I do not remember any. In Sarawak,
however, they are plentiful.

Pigs are very numerous here, and wild cattle and
deer arc also abundant. We have as yet seen no
traces of alligators, though in the Madalam branch
they are said to abound, and last spring I saw a
very large one ; it was a disgusting-looking object,
a great fat slimy-looking thing, — a tail stuck on
a hogshead. They are not, however, dreaded, as
they can obtain a very plentiful supply of food
from the pigs which constantly swim from bank to
bank. Otherwise, it would be unpleasant to have
to steer a boat, as the man-devouring reptile strikes
his victim from the stern with a blow of his tail.
This happened to an unfortunate Malay in the Siol
branch of the Sarawak, who was pulling up that
river with his wife in a small canoe.

The death of this man drew attention to the
monster alligator I have previously referred to, and
Mr. Crookshank and Sadam, a very courageous
Malay, went down to place a bait on the banks
of the Siol. When this was done, they pulled
back, Mr. Crookshank steering. They had seen
nothing of their enemy, so that Sadam jumped up,
and, flourishing his spear, began in a loud voice to
defy the alligator, using very insulting terms. Sud-
denly he dropt his weapon and seizing his paddle,
began pulling away with might and main, for the
animal had just risen to the surface of the water not
twenty yards from the boat.

Though the steersman’s position was by no means
an agreeable one, Mr. Crookshank could not help

COMBAT WITH ALLIGATORS.

39

laughing at the change of countenance of his com-
panion, who excused himself by saying it was the
suddenness of his challenge being accepted that made
him pull away in an excited manner. “ But now,”
he added, rising to his feet, “ let him show himself
again, and I will not attempt to run.” He had
scarcely uttered the words, when the alligator, which
was accustomed to follow boats, again rose to the
surface. There was no more boasting, but a frantic
attempt to get out of the Siol branch.

The alligator took the bait, but got rid of the
long rattan fastened to it, by accidentally or pur-
posely winding it round a tree, then breaking it off.
However, though his body was not secured, it was
most probable he died from the lacerations of the
stomach caused by his endeavours to break the rattan,
as I have not heard of his being seen since. It was
up the Siol branch that a place was found where the
body of one of his victims appeared to have been
beaten, to break the bones, previously to swallowing.
The Malays say the alligators do it by repeated blows
of their ponderous head ; in fact, one of the large
teeth of the reptile was found snapped off on the
above-mentioned spot.

As I have told the story of Sadam’s alarm at the
sudden appearance of the alligator, I ought in justice
to him, to mention an occurrence which took place
last year. He and his brother Dand were wandering
near Tanjong Po, a rocky point near the entrance of
the Sarawak river, when they came to a cave ; hearing
some movement inside, they entered, and saw two
huge alligators at the farther end. Knowing that

O O O

40

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

these ferocious reptiles are not very active, except on
soft mud, or in the water, they determined to attack
them. They were armed with spears and swords,
and entering the cave, Sadam approached the first
beast, and actively springing clear to avoid its rush,
drove his spear into the soft side, and with his
brother’s aid soon severed the head from its body.
Encouraged by their success they advanced to attack
the second, which was vainly endeavouring to escape
over the broken rocks, and soon succeeded in destroy-
ing it.

I was conversing one day with a French priest who
had resided many years in Siam, and he told me he
had seen men there catch the alligator in the following
manner : — In the upper Menarn, where the river is
broad and shallow, hut with deep pools occasionally,
the alligators are both numerous and fierce ; yet the
inhabitants, who are very fond of eating the flesh,
pursue them with great courage and skill. Six or
seven men proceed to a pool where one of these
reptiles is supposed to lurk, and with long poles,
sound every portion of it ; if an animal be there he is
soon disturbed, and driven towards the shallower part
of the river, even to the sandbanks, where expert
men throw' their lassoes round his feet and tail.
When they think him somewhat exhausted, a bold
hunter, springing on the alligator’s hack, places his
hands over the creature’s eyes, which then always
remains quiet. A noose is quickly slipped over his
head, and the animal hauled ashore.

Alligators lay their eggs in the jungle. I remem-
ber hearing the late Mr. Brereton tell the following

MALAY COOKERY.

41

story: He was one day hunting in the jungle near
the Sakarang fort, when his dogs gave tongue. He
followed up quickly, and found they had disturbed
a female alligator laying her eggs. Directly she saw
him, she gave chase, and he had some difficulty in
getting away from her, though the dogs distracted her
attention.

Alligators very seldom attack boats, but a case
occurred in the Sambas river, where a man was
dragged out of a large praliu from among twenty
of his companions. My own party was never in
danger from them but once, when a large alligator
rose within three feet of the boat ; hut before he
could do anything, I had put a rifle-ball into his side,
as I happened at that moment to be looking out for
a shot at them on the mud banks.

Having stopped so early, we had plenty of leisure-
time on our hands ; and being seated on a pretty
pebbly bank, I commenced a game of ducks and
drakes in the water, in which I was soon joined by
the whole party — it afforded them great amusement.
I may here remark that you may allow this kind
of freedom with your native followers, without their
ever taking advantage of it another time. If they
see you inclined to chat, or to amuse yourself with
them, they are delighted ; if you desire to be quiet,
they never disturb you by any intrusion or undue
familiarity.

My cook Ahtan, who was very much annoyed last
night hv having to set before me so poor a dinner as stale
bread and salt fish, determined, as he had along after-
noon before him, to devote it to cooking, particularly

42

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

as I always divided it into two portions, one for him,
and one for myself. The curry he produced was
admirable, and having secured a cucumber last night,
he was enabled to add what the Malays call a sambal,
of which there are many kinds ; the one he made was
of the sliced cucumber, and green and red chillies cut
into fine threads ; others are of dried salt fish finely
powdered, or fish roes, or hard-boiled eggs, or the
tender shoots of the bamboo, but with all, or nearly all,
red or green chillies are added. The most delicious
I have ever seen put on table was made of prawns
about an inch long, partly boiled, then seasoned with
freshly prepared curry mixture, and at last slightly
moved over the fire in a frying-pan, taking care not
to burn it ; if chillies are added judiciously, so as not
to render it too fiery, it causes a keen appetite to all
but a confirmed invalid.

Malay cookery is sometimes very tasty ; I remem-
ber spending a fortnight in the Sultan’s palace, and
we were fed daily from his kitchen ; sometimes the
stewed fowls were admirable, and there was a par-
ticular kind of rice-cake sent in very hot, which was
delicious. But the triumph of Malay cookery is to
send in the sambals in perfection, particularly the
one called blachang ; the best is composed of the very
finest prawns, caught, I imagine, soon after the little
ones have burst from their eggs, and pounded up
with red chillies, and a little ginger. Coarser kinds
are made from the larger prawn, or even from the
smallest fish caught on the river’s banks. Sometimes
the material is first exposed to the sun in order to be
completely dried, or it would not keep or mix very well,

IIOW TO MAKE A CURRY.

43

though it is often soaked till nearly decomposed, and
that is perhaps the favourite way when it emits a
rather powerful scent, hut it is very tasty. Prawns
and fish are cooked in a great variety of ways, hut
roasting them over a fire as abobs, is an excellent
fashion, if you first sprinkle them with curry mixture.

I have mentioned the admirable curry which Ahtan
put before me ; perhaps I ought to explain how we
make that dish in the Far East ; it appears a very
different thing from what I have tasted in England
under the name of curry : a fowl is cut up into small
pieces, and four dried and two green onions, five
chillies, half a turmeric, one tcaspoonful of coriander
seed, one of white cumin, and one of sweet cumin arc
provided. You must wrell pound the seeds, turmeric
and chillies, and slice the onions fine ; then take the
saucepan, and after buttering it, slightly brown the
onions, then add the pounded ingredients with just
sufficient water to reduce them to a paste, and throw
in the fowl and well mix them up, till the meat has a
yellow tint, and lastly, add the cocoa-nut milk, and
boil till the curry he thoroughly cooked. I hope my
teaching is sufficiently clear to be understood, but I
must add, the cocoa-nut milk is made by scraping the
meat of half of an old nut very fine, then soaking
it in warm water, and after squeezing out the milk,
throw the fibre away. I watched the whole process
of cooking with great interest, and almost fancy I
could make a curry myself.

After dark, while the men were sitting in their
tents, I had a talk with the Orang Kaya Upit about
the treatment of the aborigines. Now that we are

44

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

away from the influence of the rajahs, he will speak
out, and tell me anecdotes that otherwise would never
reach my ears : they are admirably illustrative of the
present method of governing this country. A few
years ago, a Murut of the Limpasong village killed a
tax-gatherer. There was little doubt that the Murut
could only excuse himself by urging oppression ; and
that had he been seized and executed, nothing could
very well be said on the subject ; but the present
Sultan thought differently : instead of killing the
offending Murut, he determined to destroy the village
of about two hundred souls. He collected a force
of Malays to attack the houses from the river, and
promised the Muruts the heads, slaves, and plunder,
if they attacked by land. The Limpasong people
surrounded by a couple of thousand men had no
chance ; they made a slight resistance, then fled.
The Muruts in the woods fell upon them, killed about
fifty, and took about the same number of women
and children prisoners ; the rest escaped. The Orang
Kaya thought nothing of this ; hut the grievance was
that the Sultan took away all the prisoners as his
slaves, and likewise defrauded the Muruts of the
most valuable plunder.

Again, in 1850, the nephew of the late Sultan was
dunning a Bisaya for an imaginary debt ; the man,
to escape annoyance, tried to jump out of the
verandah, when a follower of the noble wounded him
with a sharp stick. This roused his friends, and
they killed the whole party. Directly they had done
so, they remembered the gravity of the act, and
formed a league with the neighbouring villages to

ANECDOTES OF BORNEAN RULE.

45

resist the force that was sure to attack them from the
capital. They erected a stockade, and a few of their
bravest men defended it for a short time : there was
much firing and great beating of gongs, hut little
damage. The noise, however, frightened the Bisayas
and Muruts, and they fled ; hut as they left the
stockade, Orang Kaya Upit fired his musket, and
killed a Bornean. This was enough to prevent all
idea of pursuit.

Now was the time for the wily Makota to settle
matters : he sent a flag of truce, and after some dis-
cussion, it was agreed that four persons should he
given up to suffer death in satisfaction for those who
were killed with the Sultan’s nephew. Now comes
the infamous part of the story. The aborigines gave
up a stranger, who had married in the country, and
wdio had had nothing whatever to do with the original
murders : they gave him up, with his wife, his grand-
father, and grandmother, and his two children — the
last were kept as slaves by Makota, the other four
executed.

I mentioned the Sultan’s nephew was dunning for
an imaginary debt : I must explain this. There is
a system in this country called “ serra,” or “ serra
dagang,” or forced trade, which I have before referred
to, but it is carried on in the neighbourhood of
the capital to an extent unknown elsewhere. Every
noble of any influence that thinks proper goes to a
tribe with some cloth, and calling the chief, orders
him to divide it among his tribe ; he then demands
as its price from twenty to a hundred times its value.
He does not expect to get the whole at once, hut

46

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

it enables him to dun the tribe for years after. Not
content with taking their goods for these imaginary
debts, they constantly seize their young children and
carry them off as slaves. The tribe who killed the
Sultan’s nephew had actually paid their serra to
thirty-three different nobles that year, and had been
literally stripped of all their food, before giving way
to passion, they destroyed the whole party above
referred to.

Makota was enabled to settle the matter quickly,
because without the food they get from Limbang, the
capital would starve. I little thought that within
three months of my writing the above lines, Makota
would likewise have lost his life by his infamous
oppressions.

A system very much encouraged by the Borneans
is to induce the Orang Kayas to sell as slaves all
the orphans of a tribe, or the children of any poor
Mur ut who cannot pay his debts : they are systemati-
cally corrupting the tribes. In hearing these stories
of the Sultan and his nobles, which, I may add, I have
no doubt are quite correctly and fairly told by the
Muruts, as I have often heard the same or similar
ones from the Borneans, I was reminded of the old
Malay saying of the four qualities which a ruler
should possess. The Borneans, though they know
the words, have forgotten the spirit : a sovereign
should be brave, just, patient, and yet possess the
power of being angry.

Old Japer makes me long to visit the great
mountain of Tilong. I asked him to give me some
idea of it ; he answered, “ Imagine the flat summit of

DIAMONDS FOUND IN BORNEO.

47

Ivina Balu carried higher till it ended in a peak it
is occasionally white at the top, but rarely remains so
for many hours after sunrise, so it does not reach the
regions of perpetual snow. I should like to organize
an expedition to explore it ; he says it is quite practi-
cable. I may even see the great diamond now in the
hands of a Malau chief, who would even give it me if
I would help him to destroy a Malay noble who
attacked his house in order to get possession of this
famous stone : the Malay was driven olf, not however
before he had lodged a ball in the jaw of the Malau
chief. “ To avenge this wound he would give you
anything.” I told him I would go to see the moun-
tain and the diamond, if he would take me ; but
he says he hopes to perform the pilgrimage to Mecca
towards the end of the year, if I will assist him. He
wants to see the land that “ God made holy, and
where He performed so many wonderful works.” He
fears that, as now he is an old man, he may die
without fulfilling the desire of his life.

Speaking of the Malau diamond reminds me of
the famous one formerly said to be possessed by the
Sultan of Matan, for which he was offered immense
sums. Borneo, however, has always been famous for
its diamonds, which are worked at the present time
by the Chinese and Malays at Landak, a country
lying farther inland than Sambas ; and there are two
streams in Sarawak, the Santah, and a branch of the
Quop, where diamonds of a very fine water have been
found, but those places have not yet been regularly
explored. Occasionally very pretty diamonds are
brought over from the Dutch territories to Sarawak,

48

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

but I have seldom examined them. It is never safe
to trust to reports respecting diamonds ; for instance,
I was once informed that a noble in Brunei had a
very large diamond which he wished to part with, but
when we came to examine it, we found it was a
pinkish topaz, as large as a pullet’s egg, and he asked
a thousand pounds for it.

49

CHAPTER III.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — continued.

Wet Morning — Wild Cattle — A Night Adventure — View of Molu
Mountain — A Pebbly Flat — Moose Deer — Our Tents — Kayans
— Their Attacks — Desolation — Course they pursue to invade
these Districts — Difficulties — Attack the Lepuasing Murats —
Fearful Retaliation — Attacks on the Villages of the Lower
Limbang — Makota’s Treachery — Ilis Cupidity — Surprise of
Balat Ikan — Alarm Signal — Advance — Fresh Kayan Marks —
Inundations — Unskilful Sportsmen — Difficult Rapids — The
Sertab Hills — Enter the Limestone District — A New Kayan
Hut — High Pork — Effect of Pebbles on the Rock — Agreeable
Evening — Omen Birds — Japer’s Method of easing a sore
Heart — The Punan Tribe — The Spy — The Alligator Omen —
The Bird Omen — Attack the Village — Poisoned Arrows —
Destruction of a Tribe — Effect of such Forays on the Country
— The Ghosts on the Tapang Tree — Numerous Bees’ Nests —
Sand Flies — Seribas Omen Bird — The Salindong — Kayan
Resting-place — Traces of Captives taken — Precautions — Diffi-
culties increase — Limestone Country — Severe Toil — Accidents
avoided — Hauling the Boats — River narrows — A Fresh —
Towing-ropes — Story of the Death of Orang Kaya Apo —
Enter the Sandstone District again — Broader River — Snakes
on Trees — The same Colour as the Boughs and Foliage —
Biawaks or Guanas — A large One — Their Ways — The Fowls
and the Cobra — Heavy Day’s Work— Future Plans — Two Ways
of reaching Adang — The flying F oxes — Huge Frog — The Madihit
— Leave our Boats — Handsome Trees — Appearance of the
Country — Sand Flies — Preparations for the Overland Journey
— Division of Food — Our famous Hunters — A Cache — The
Chinese on the Madihit.

September 1st, 7 a.m. — The night continued fine
till towards early morn, when the rain commenced,
and still continues. The showers arc not very
VOL. II. 4

50

MY LIMEANG JOURNAL.

heavy, hut there is an incessant descent of drizzle.
The river rose two feet during the night, hut there
is a tendency to fall. I should push on immediately,
only it is now necessary to open all the mat coverings,
and prepare for poling ; before we could stow away
the baggage, they would be wet through. I must
have patience.

3 p.m. — Having breakfasted, and the weather
clearing, we managed to get away at 8.15, and at 1 1.20
passed the entrance of the Madalam. At Pulau Tam-
hadau, so called on account of our twice disturbing
a line tambadau hull from this island, I sent the
Orang Kaya round the inner passage to drive any
wild cattle that might be there towards the main river ;
hut, unfortunately, they heard him, and we saw them
plunge from the end of the island into the narrow
stream. lie fired, says he hit one, hut there was no
result — very vexing, as I thought he would go so
quietly as to drive the cattle towards us. Had
they plunged into the main stream, we should have
secured several : there were eight, some of them quite
young.

Just at the entrance of the Madalam, opposite the
site of the China fort before mentioned, we once had
what I thought might have proved a serious adven-
ture. We had built a small hut, and our whole party
consisting of but fifteen, we kept a good watch.
Towards four in the morning, the sentinel touched
me quietly, I got up, and found old Japer watching
with a musket in his hand, who beckoned me to
him ; then I distinctly heard footsteps in the jungle.
I told the sentinel to wake the men quietly, and

VIEW OF MOLU MOUNTAIN.

51

when all were prepared, I shouted out in Malay,
“ Who goes there ? ” No answer, but perfect still-
ness. I then made Japcr hail in the Kayan and
also in the Murut languages, and as again no
answer was returned, I fired a minie rifle over the
spot from whence the noise of footsteps had pro-
ceeded. The crash of the conical ball in the trees
made the intruders rush hack. In about a quarter
of an hour we heard steps on the pebbly flat below us.
We again hailed, but obtaining no answer, we fired
a volley. There was much movement, as of footsteps
in rapid retreat. I thought at first it might be a pig
or a tambadau ; but on examining the jungle near
the hut, we found the footprints of several men who
had crawled up very near to us. They may have
been only wax hunters, but they ought to have
answered the hail : my men, however, insisted that
they were Kayans.

x\fter leaving the Madalam on our right, we
entered a perfectly new country. We saw a range
of hills, said to be Sertab, to the eastward. We
stopped at two p.m. below an extensive pebbly flat.
It shortly afterwards commenced raining, and is now
pouring heavily, though as the clouds arc coming
from the north, there is some hope of the weather clear-
ing up. Just below Tambadau Island we had a view
of the Molu range, and I was somewhat puzzled by
it. There appear to be two peaks, the westernmost
much lower than that to the east, which is consider-
ably loftier. When we were at the foot of the range,
we noticed that there was a peak to the westward,

4—2

52

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

but not much separated from the mountain we at-
tempted to ascend.*

9 p.m. — About four p.m. the rain ceased, but
the river continued to rise till seven : it is now gradu-
ally sinking. It rose three feet in this broad space,
so that in the narrow portions of the stream it must
have risen much more. We have fastened our boats
in a safe place, under a clump of trees near the
northern part of the pebbly flat. This mass of
shingle is, perhaps, 300 yards by 150 in its broadest
part, and forms the easternmost portion of an island.
In pulling along to-day, I noticed several of these
beds of water-worn pebbles showing themselves in the
banks, from two to eighteen feet above the present
level of the river, which proves that the stream flows
now at a much lower level ; great accumulations of
drift wood may also be occasionally observed cropping
out of the steep banks. We have as yet passed no
ancient forest; young jungle, mixed with bamboos,
cover the banks. The water to-day has, on the whole,
been very shallow, and we had to use great exertions
occasionally to get the boats over the rapids.

Just before dusk, a man shouted out that there
were moose-deer in the island. We instituted a very
active search, but the cunning animals hid themselves
away in the long grass and brushwood, so that writh-

* There are two ranges, which explain why I was so puzzled by
the different appearances presented by these mountains. In fact, it
was only afterwards I discovered that in ascending the Trunan we
had got under the “ child of Molu ” as it is called by the Malays ;
had we continued ascending the Madalam, we should have found
ourselves under the great peak.

DESOLATION.

53

out dogs they were not to he found, and swimming
exceedingly well, they always take to the water when
pursued.

2nd. — (My journal appears to be filled with nothing
hut notices of the weather ; but as success or non-
success depended entirely on the amount of rain that
fell, it is very natural that I should have recorded
the changes from dry to wet and wet to dry.)
There was a little drizzling during the night, the
water falling two feet, but at four a.m. the rain came
down in torrents, and the rush of the stream forbad
any attempt at advancing.

4 p.m. — It is unpleasant to record no progress,
but the river is still two feet higher than it was this
morning, and is falling but slowly. Were it still early,
I should push on, but it is useless to disturb ourselves
so late in the afternoon. I had a clear, hut partial
view to-day of what Japer calls the east end of Molu
range. Their summits appear to rise to between
5,000 and 6,000 feet ; they are the mountains which
I can see from the back of the Consulate.

The men begin now to appreciate the tents, and
pitch them every night. I still sleep in the boat,
as it is a work of labour to remove my baggage,
and it is as well not to leave it without my servant
or myself to watch over it. To-day we noticed
evidences of there having been visitors lately in this
neighbourhood. Our guides declare they are Kayans,
so that the men are beginning to keep a look-out.

We are surrounded by the evidences of former
cultivation, but now the country is totally abandoned.
The Kayans first of all attacked the Tabuns, who

54

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

lived on the Madalam, and drove them away ; they
then attacked the Murats on the main river, and
these being all disunited, were destroyed piecemeal,
each village caring only for itself. There is now' not
an inhabitant on the Upper Limbang except among
the mountains close to its sources. Far as the
Muruts have fled — and they are beyond the distant
eastern range — they are still exposed to forays. How-
ever, they are seldom disturbed by great attacks ; they
are more annoyed by small parties of from ten to fifty.

In my journal kept during my visit to the Baram
Ivayans, I mention that there was great weeping
in some of the villages on account of the destruc-
tion of a party said to have amounted to six hundred,
but I believe twTo hundred was the right number.
They started from the Baram town to search for
heads and slaves in the Upper Trusan. . I will follow'
the course they took, to show wdiat energy they dis-
play in this warlike amusement. They pulled dowm
the Baram until they reached the Tutu branch ; w hich
they ascended to the Millanau, then up that tributary
to the foot of the western Molu range.

Here wTas the regular Kayan road connecting the
Millanau with the Trunan, a branch of the Madalam.
This road is cleared about twTo fathoms broad, and
then trunks of small trees are laid across and secured
about a yard apart. I followed it once for upwards
of two miles. The Kayans, on reaching this spot,
haul their boats (tamuis) along the road, and con-
sidering that some of their tamuis are sixty feet long,
it is a wrork of infinite labour, but three or four
crews lay on to one boat and gradually move the

FEARFUL RETALIATION.

whole fleet over into the Trunan river. From thence
they descend about thirty miles through the Madalam
to the Limbang ; then up the Limbang to the Adang
landing-place — very heavy work, as we find it.

On this occasion they pushed farther up the river,

' and crossed over to the interior of the Trusan. Here,
as ill luck would have it, they were noticed by the
Lepuasing Muruts, and contrary to the usual Murut
custom, a large force quietly collected, and before the
Kayans had killed above two women and a child,
they were attacked in the rear and fled to an island
full of caves.

They were soon surrounded, and the alarm having
spread, reinforcements of Muruts came in on every
side. They attacked the mouths of some of the
caves, but the Kayans easily beat them off. Finding
they were losing men to no purpose, they changed
their tactics, and at this part of the story the Murut
listeners gave a grunt of satisfaction. They col-
lected great quantities of firewood and heaped it
before the caves, then set it on fire, and prepared for
the rush that would surely take place. Maddened by
the smoke, the Kayans attempted to break through,
but -were driven back, and in less than two hours the
whole party were either killed or suffocated. The
Lepuasing Muruts have suffered from no further
attacks. One or two Kayans who did not fly to the
caves got away, and reached their homes after a few
months in a state of demi-starvation.

The Kayans having driven the Muruts of the upper
Limbang away, are now extending their attacks to the
portion nearer the capital. In March, 1857, they

56

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

came over to the number of three thousand, and built
a large encampment at the mouth of the Damit river ;
from thence they sent insolent messages to the Govern-
ment of Brunei, threatening to destroy the whole
country unless some particular village was given up
to them to plunder. The Bornean Government, in
great fear, collected every available man, and sent
them up to oppose the Kayans ; but, apparently,
neither felt inclined to fight.

After about a month’s talk, Makota proposed that
the Kayans should he bribed by the Muruts to return
to their own country ; but the latter, remembering a
former trick he had played them, were very unwilling
to come to terms ; so Makota had a secret interview
with the Kayan chiefs, and then gave out that peace
was concluded, that the Kayans would go hack to
their own country, and so ordered the Bornean forces
to return to the capital. Scarcely had they done so,
when Makota’s plan was revealed : he had given

them up a Murut village (Balat Ikan) which he
disliked ; the Kayans surprised it, killed thirteen,
and captured seventeen, obtaining likewise the whole
plunder. This was the Bornean plan of getting rid
of an enemy. It is worthy of remark that while the
two forces were face to face, traders from the capital
went up to supply the Kayans with food in exchange
for valuable jungle produce.

The way in which the head-hunters surprised Balat
Ikan is an illustration of the divisions that separate
the different races on the Limbang. The frontier forti-
fied village was then Blimbing, inhabited by Bisayans,
commanded bv a son of the old Oran£ Kaya Panglima

J O J O

ALARM SIGNAL.

57

Prang, I have often referred to, and when lie saw the
Kayan force descending the river, he ran to his guns
and prepared to fire into them, hut the people in the
foremost boat shouted out that if he would neither
fire his guns, or beat the alarm signal, they would not
meddle with his village, upon which he ordered his
men not to interfere. The villagers of Baiat Ikan,
inhabited by Muruts, trusting to the usual alarm
signal, kept no watch, and were easily surprised.

From time immemorial, it has been a custom among
the inhabitants of these villages to beat an alarm on
their gongs on the first appearance of an enemy, or
when some great misfortune has happened. It puts
the people on the alert, as when I lost my boat on a
snag in the Madalam, the report spread I was drowned
or in trouble, and the alarm signal was beaten, and I
met a dozen boats coming to the rescue, or to inquire
into the truth of the report.

Makota’s trick, referred to above, was this — The
Kayans were in force at Sungci Damit (in 1855)
when he arranged with their chiefs that on the pay-
ment of a hundred pikuls of guns (700/.) they
should retire. The Muruts collected a lanm amount,
which Makota coolly kept for himself. The enraged
Kayans fell upon a Tabun village above Batang
Parak, and carried it with great slaughter of men,
women, and children.

Having remained quiet the whole day, the men
were in no way fatigued, and we sat late talking
over these and other matters, and collecting words
of the Adang language, which is, in fact, the same as
that of the other Muruts.

58

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

3rd. The river did not fall above three inches
during the night, but I pushed off at six and brought
up at 12.45 for the day, as it was thundering and
threatening rain from the S.W. Three p.m. — The
rain has just commenced, but we are comfortably
sheltered for the night. There is little to notice,
except that the river continues broad and often very
shallow, each reach containing an island which, of
course, produces a rapid, rendering our progress slow.
Occasionally the banks are high, showing a sort of
stratified shale. The jungle continues small, except on
some of the low hills we have passed. From our resting
place the Sertab range does not appear to be far off.

Some of our party are much alarmed by finding
a long Kayan hut but recently occupied ; so that
there is no doubt that the head-hunters have been
here, which induces me to take every reasonable pre-
caution ; but our Muruts are full of the most absurd
fancies, saying that if the Kayans have killed people
in the interior, the villagers will declare we did it,
and attack us. They would willingly return to their
homes ; even those who are anxious to see their
friends are disheartened by the assured marks of the
recent neighbourhood of the head-hunters. I have
told all the men that on no account are we to meddle
with the Kayans, but should they attack any of our
party, then to fall upon them without mercy. I hope
we shall neither see nor hear anything of them.

We have brought up for the night at a curious
place, a sort of large island, a stony and sandy plain,
about 200 by 400 yards, with patches of vegetation
and clumps of trees on it. There is one about fifty

INUNDATIONS.

59

yards from us, that will afford shelter in case of a
heavy fresh. There is every sign of there being
tremendous inundations in this river. Our sports-
men, with their usual ill-luck, missed a deer on the
sandy plain before us. There are numerous drop-
pings of wTild cattle, and our men have just reported
some on the other side of the river, about a quarter of
a mile farther up. If it cease raining before sunset, I
will go after them.

7 p.m. — I have been, and there is not a trace of
anything but pigs. A huge boar swam away within
fifty yards of one of the men, hut he missed it ; we
were consoled, however, on our return, by catching
some very fine fish. Rain has again commenced, and
until we leave Molu to the north of us will, I believe,
continue.

4 th. — Though it drizzled a good part of the night,
still the river fell nine inches. We got away by 6
a.m., and pulled on till 9-40, when wTe stopped for
breakfast; off again at 11.25, and brought up for the
night at 3.35. This is the most fortunate day we
have yet had : cloudy in the morning, hut clearing up
into fine weather. We have had seven hours and a
half of good work, not including stoppages, and have
made, I think, more than eight miles. Nearly every
reach includes a rapid, and one at the Sertab hills
caused us a little delay, as we had to remove stones to
make a passage for our boats. In the least rapid
part of the river is a good place for taking the
dip and strike of the rock. Dip N.N.W., strike
E.N.E., angle 80°, sandstone.

The river has been winding the whole day among

60

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

hills, varying in elevation from 500 to 1,500 feet
(estimated), and clothed with a fine forest. At the
distance the Sertab hills appear to be a single range,
hut in fact they are a succession of short ones.
When this district was inhabited, no doubt each
had a distinct name, hut now they call them all the
Sertab hills. We arc about to leave the sandstone
country. In the last reach I applied the test to the
first piece of limestone I have seen during this expe-
dition, hut it was scarcely necessary, as there was no
mistaking its form. The Salindong hills ahead of us
are evidently limestone. We had a partial view of a
high mountain, which Japer says is the east end of
the Molu range, which I long to see in the rear, but as
yet it is always to the east of south. I suspect there
are several ranges, forming what the natives call the
Molu hills. The general direction from the mouth of
the Madalam has been S.E. by E.

The incidents which have varied the day have been
the finding of another new Kayan sulap, or hut, and
the decaying head of a large wild hoar left by an alli-
gator on the hank. The last was for us an unfortu-
nate discovery, as the Muruts seized upon it, and
have it now in their boat — a most offensive subject
for our nostrils. Every time they passed us a most
disgusting whiff came our way, and now at our resting
place we are obliged to insist that they shall either
get rid of the head, or encamp away from us. The
love of high pork has prevailed over fear, so they
have taken up their quarters at the other end of the
pebbly flat.

I have noticed to-day many of those deep holes in

AGREEABLE EVENING.

61

rocks mentioned by De la Beebe, as caused by the
continual working of pebbles on them. Many have
bored their way down several feet, working even
through to the stream ; others are in every stage of
progress. The river, though in many places deep, is
generally shallow, particularly at the rapids, and it
occasionally rushes down with great force. I expect
as we enter the limestone district, to change the
character of these impediments, which have as yet
consisted of pebbles, gradually enlarging as we move
up the river ; many of limestone are now showing
themselves. The Muruts declare there are edible
birds’-nest caves near Salindong ; but we must reserve
any search till our return, as I will not allow any-
thing to interfere with our advance.

I do enjoy this exploration of new countries. I
especially enjoy an evening such as this. It is a fine
star-light night ; we have pitched our tents on a broad
pebbly flat, and the men have collected a great pile of
wood, with which to keep up a cheerful fire. Most of
us arc sitting round it, and that everlasting subject of
discussion arises — how far are the Kayans off. The
hut to-day appeared as if very lately used, but if we
are to be attacked, I hope it will be in the day-time.
The conversation was beginning to flag, when suddenly
we heard a bird utter three cries to our right. “ Ah,”
cried Japer, “ that is a good sign,” and instantly
reverted to head-hunting and omens. I will here
introduce a story illustrative of the practice. Its cool
atrocity always makes my heart sick. Japer told it in
illustration of various omens. I will try and relate it in
his own words, whilst they are still ringing in my ears.

62

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

“ I am acquainted with all the different birds and
animals in which the Pakatans have faith. Do you
hear that grasshopper, — it is on the right, and is
a sign of good fortune. Were there three or four
sounding together, we should instantly leave our hut,
at whatever time of night, and seek a new resting-
place, or we should suffer for it. When the bird
of omen flies over us from the quarter whence we have
just arrived, it is a good sign ; the bird tells us to
advance. If he flew from the quarter whence we were
going, we should return to our last night’s resting-
place, whatever might be the distance. You know
that bird which has three cries ? When it sounds to
the right it is good luck ; and also when to the left,
if very near an enemy, it rejoices to give them to us
as a prey. When it cries, ‘ Trik, trik,’ it is death to
those that advance.

“ I will tell you what has happened to me since I
have entered El Islam. Two of my grand-children
died of sickness. How was I to lose the soreness
of heart occasioned by this event? I determined
to go head-hunting. I sent a hundred of mv tribe
up the Eejang, and started myself with seventy to
Bintulu. There the Orang Kaya Pamancha came
to me and said, ‘ You are going to kill some of my
people.’ ‘No; I am not,’ I answered. ‘Well,’ he
said, ‘ there is a tribe of Punans living near Bukit
Lambir, who owe me for goods, which they have had
for some time. They sell their camphor and their
wax to others, not to me. Go and attack them ;
there arc only thirty males. But don’t forget me when
you divide the women and children.’

THE SPY.

63

“ So I sent my brother, who is a brave man, and
he started in a small canoe, with three men. After
a long search, he arrived in their neighbourhood,
and heard them talking in the woods. He there-
fore hid his canoe, and that night walked up close
to their village. He then stripped and left his sword
and everything' near an old tree, and fastening a
string to the stump, crawled towards the house like
a pig on all fours, but gradually letting out the
string behind him ; this was to be his guide in
returning to his clothes. He found that the house
was large. He then crawled back to the place from
whence he started. Not satisfied with this inspection,
he determined to remain there and have a look at
the place during the day. At dawn he concealed
himself in a hollow tree, and waited there till all
the Punans had gone out hunting; he then boldly
went near the house and counted the number of doors
— ‘ families ’ — which he found to be forty. There-
upon, he returned to his companions, and they all
together pulled off to Bintulu.

“ On meeting, I asked what was the news ? As
this was in public, my younger brother answered,
‘ Antah,’ (nothing particular) ; but presently calling
me on one side, he told me all that he had seen.
That very night I started off with my whole party.
When we reached the entrance of the Lambir River,
a great alligator rose to the surface, and kept up with
our boats the whole way. This was a good omen,
and I addressed the animal thus : — c Oh, grandfather,
give us good fortune, and we will provide you with a
feast.’ We were all in the highest spirits, when the

64

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

omen bird flew from the right hand to the left,
crying ‘ Trik, trik and immediately another flew
from the left to the right, sounding ‘ Trik, trik.
This double crossing was a very bad omen, and por-
tended a fight and much contention ; so I said to my
followers, ‘ Let us return to our boats for three days ;
this omen is very bad.’ But they laughed at me,
and said, ‘ You arc becoming afraid.’ ‘ Very well,’
I answered, ‘ let us go on ; I shall not be the only
one to die.’

“ Upon this we approached the house, and at break
of day commenced hurling our siligis (wooden jave-
lins) through the bark walls. Upon this the Punans
answered with a flight of sumpits (poisoned arrows),
one of which struck me on the hand. I dragged
it out with my teeth, of which I had then a few
left, and bound up the wound. The charm I pos-
sessed prevented its having any bad effect. When
my relations saw that I was wounded, they said,
‘ Oh, father, you had better retire.’ But I an-
swered, ‘ No ; I did not seek the fight to-day ; I
shall not retire.’ I tried to discharge a new gun
I had bought, but the instrument (may it and he
who sold it me be accursed !) would not go off.

“ The Punans, fearing that we would use fire, began
now to come down from their house to fight on the
ground. They were thirty-five, we were seventy ; but
the sun had descended as low as that in the heavens”
— pointing, as he said these words, to the sky (4 p.m.)
— “ ere the fight was over. We killed them all ; they
fought like brave men ; not one tried to run away.
We then went up to the houses and seized the women

EFFECT OF SUCH FORAYS ON THE COUNTRY. 65

and children. We captured fifty-five. When we
caught a woman, it was like catching a hen ; all her
children flocked to her like chickens. When we
caught a child, the mother ran to it directly. That
night we made merry in the house, and next day
started off to Bintulu. Some of the captives cried,
others made no sign. My share came to two, whom
I sold to a Brunei man for a pikul of guns each (thirty
Spanish dollars). On that occasion ten of our party
were killed, and nearly every man wounded, which was
all caused by neglecting the warning the omen-birds
gave ; but our young men were too eager. We got
thirty-five heads. Had they followed my advice, we
should have fallen upon them when unprepared, but
I was not listened to.”

Such is the story I have before heard, and Japcr
has now again repeated to me in all its detail. I
have written it down almost word for word, omit-
ting, however, his two single combats, in which
his opponents fell. He is a well-known warrior
amongst them. The Punans had never done them
the slightest injury ; but, for the sake of easing
his sore heart, a tribe is massacred. The Orang
Kaya, who gave the information, got a slave for
his trouble. What country can prosper where such
scenes are constantly occurring ?

At this moment there are, most probably, from
twenty to forty Kayans pulling before us, seeking for
heads and slaves. We cannot he certain of the
number, as, from the signs, there may be one or two
tamuis ; and the maxim of these ruffians is, that out
of their own country all are fair game. “ Were we

5

VOL. II.

66

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

to meet our father, we would slay him.” The head
of a child or of a woman is as highly prized as
that of a man ; so, as easier prey, the cowards seek
them by lying in ambush near the plantations. I
ought to add, that some of the relations of the
Pakatans, who were killed in the foray, sacrificed
two of the women captives for the sake of the heads
and for revenge.

The Orang Kaya Upit and his party listened to
this story with great interest, and evidently envied
Japer the glorious chance he had had. I changed
the conversation, and then they told stories of the
wrongs they suffered at the hands of the people of
the capital. To-night they were full of stories. Old
Japer is a store-house of information; he is so well
acquainted with the countries between Sarawak and
Brunei. lie has a thorough faith in ghosts and
spirits, and tells of many an adventure with them ;
of the Antus who caused the death of the wax-hunters,
by pushing them off the mehgiris or tapang-tree.
When the unfortunate men, from inefficient prepara-
tions, as their companions not keeping up a great
fire under the trees to stupefy the bees, are so stung
as to let go their hold, the natural explanation is
never taken ; they fly to their superstitions.

Japer’s nephew saw one of these tapang ghosts, and
managed to keep his eye upon him and prevent him
pushing him off ; he came down without accident, but
without any wax. I suggested that he invented the
ghost to excuse his timidity, which Japer thought
probable. To-day we passed one of these lofty trees,
bearing above twenty bces’-nests, among them four

SERIBAS OMEN BIRD.

67

old ones white with wax. As the country is full of
tapangs, in which alone do the bees build their nests,
the stories of the great amount of wax formerly pro-
cured in this district may be true. Why do the
honey-bees generally build on one particular tree?
Its being the finest in the forest is no good reason ;
perhaps there is something enticing in the bark. I
say “ generally,” because, though I have never seen
their nests on other trees, yet I have often come
across them in the crevices of rocks.

If travelling has its pleasures, it has also its dis-
agreeables : mosquitoes near the sea, leeches by thou-
sands in the jungle, and swarms of sand-flies on the
banks of the rivers. The fire being nearly out, there
is no smoke to drive these last nuisances away, and
they compel me to close my journal for the night, and
retire under the shelter of a Scotch plaid.

I have so often mentioned the omen-birds, that I
will describe the one which is most considered by the
Seribas Dayaks : body, a bright red ; wings, black,
chequered with white ; head, black at top, with a
beak and throat light blue ; the tail long, a mixture
of black, white, and brown; about the size of a black-
bird ; the beak is slightly hooked. It is a scarce
bird, and is called by the natives Burong Papaw.
The bird is before me while describing it. I dare
say a naturalist would notice more peculiarities.

5th. — Though I don’t do very much work, yet I
was so tired this evening that I fell asleep without
writing in the day’s journal ; but, waking up at
nine a.m., I will briefly notice the day’s occurrences.
We got away at quarter-past six, and, after ascend-

5—2

68

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

ing half a mile, found ourselves at the mouth of the
Salidong, or Salindong, which is but a small stream
on the right bank. A limestone cliff marks the
entrance, and probably gives the name to the branch,
Undoing, to overshadow. Opposite to it was a Kayan
resting-place, where we found marks which proved
that one party had returned. In the hut was picked
up a woman’s jacket, with a small net, left behind
in the hurry of departure, so it is probable they
captured her while fishing on the banks of some
rivulet.

Though certain they had obtained captives, opinions
were divided on the subject of heads. I could find no
traces, and old Japcr agreed with me that it was un-
certain ; hut it would only be accidentally that we
could have discovered indications. They had left a
mark, however, to show their countrymen that they
had been up the Salindong : it was a long pole, orna-
mented with three tufts pointing up that stream. The
three tufts were supposed by many to show that they
had obtained three heads or captives ; it might mean
either. There were evidently two parties out, and
it is more than probable that there is one ahead of
us ; but we should have little to fear from the crew
of one tamui, even if they took us by surprise.
However, the men are taking every precaution ; the
muskets are nightly inspected, discharged if sus-
pected of being damp, and kept ready at hand to
he used at a moment’s notice. I have little fear but
that the heavy volley we could pour into an enemy
would drive them off without trouble.

Our course to-day has been principally through a

SEVERE TOIL.

69

limestone district, though occasionally there is sand-
stone, as at the mouth of the Tuan River. The
general dip is to the E.N.E. ; sometimes very steep,
varying from 21° to 53° and 56°. Though we worked
to 3.45 p.m., staying only an hour and a half for
breakfast, we made comparatively but litfle progress
— not, perhaps, more than six miles, as last night’s
rain raised a sort of fresh, which was hard to contend
against amid the limestone rocks and steep banks.
In fact, the last half mile took us nearly two hours
to accomplish : the limestone rocks were excessively
steep, and the river, being confined to a narrow bed,
rushed like a mill-sluice in many places. Now we
found the use of our long towing-ropes. After vainly
endeavouring to pole along, we all but two got out,
and, crawling on to a tolerably even spot, passed the
tow rope round a tree, for fear the rush of waters
should be too great for our strength, and then
hauled. At one place it took our whole united
crews to get my garei past a dcCp though dangerous
rapid.

After two hours’ severe work, we managed to reach
a spot which the men considered we might safely bring
up under ; it is a point about forty feet in height, that
promises shelter in case of a heavy fresh, and we may
have that to-morrow, as the rain is pouring now.
The advance of the last half mile was entirely the
men’s doing, as at the mouth of the Tuan, by mis-
management, we got across the stream and came
broadside on to a sunken rock, which nearly upset
us. After this I had no desire to face the rush of
waters ahead with tired men, and proposed stopping

70

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

at the Tuan, but they said it was not safe. I thought
it the perfection of a resting-place ; rocks rising on
either side, crowned by noble trees, whose branches
met above, forming a most beautiful and extensive
bower. Of course I was very unwilling to stop, when
my followers wished to go on : so I let them have their
own way ; but they said afterwards, had they known
what work was before them to get over the next half
mile, they would almost have run the risk of staying
at the spot I pointed out. It did, indeed, strain
our muscles to make the advance.

We had a very narrow escape, also, from the stu-
pidity of Orang Kaya Upit. At one of the worst
rapids that we were attempting to pole up, he got
across our bows ; and, in trying to avoid running his
frail sampir under water, we let go our hold, and were
swept back by the current at an awful pace. The
rebound of the waters from the rocks prevented our
going on them, and saved us from the smash most
expected. The Orang Kaya and his Muruts were
very unpopular after this, and my men showed great
unwillingness to aid them ; but, as they had assisted
us in our heavy work to get my garei past the rapid,
I insisted upon doing the same for them. To insure
the execution of the order, I took the end of the long
towing-rope myself, and passed it round a tree, and
put my Malays on a grassy, but rocky point, which
was completely free from brushwood. There was no
difficulty in hauling this light sampir up ; but the
two Muruts left in it were clumsy, and, just as it
was clear of the rapid and approached the bank,
nearly got their boat across the stream; though it

A FRESH.

71

was swept against the rocks, it was too elastic to
receive much damage.

The wind has been from south-west all day, and
therefore from Molu. We have been advancing
through very hilly country, which rises abruptly from
the bank : masses of rock continually overshadow the
river, which is now always confined to a very narrow
space ; it is therefore deeper and more rapid. Occa-
sionally there were dark pools, with no bottom with
our four-fathom poles. Old Japer missed, or only
slightly wounded, a kijang, a species of roe. Most
unlucky sportsman !

6th. — The expected fresh came on about one a.m. ;
and as it has rained all the morning, the water will
increase for many hours yet. There is very good
protection where we have secured our boats, though
the river has risen six feet since yesterday, and is
now running like a mill-sluice. We have met with
so many obstructions and delays from these freshes,
that I begin to fear we shall not accomplish the
object of our expedition. I shall persevere until we
have only three days’ provisions left. Food is the
only difficulty, otherwise I would spend three months
in trying to reach the Adang Muruts. The rocks
near our encampment are both limestone and sand-
stone, the latter uppermost ; their dip is east, angle
82°. There appears to he too much disturbance
of rocks here to render any observations of much
value, either with regard to the stratification or the
angle ; the rocks are constantly laminated. My men
are employed in making towing-ropes of twisted
rattans ; the one for the garei is strong enough to

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

hold a schooner, but we may want them in the bad
rapids. Yesterday we trembled once or twice, fearing
our tow-ropes would part.

At 4 pan. — The river has not fallen more than
two and a half feet since I marked it at nine a.m.
If it rain to-night, we shall lose another day.

It is a cold evening ; the gusts of wind occasionally
driving the drizzly rain before it ; so I have asked
the Muruts to come and have a glass of whiskey with
me. We have had a couple of hours’ talk, and they
have told me innumerable anecdotes of their own
lives. Orang Kaya Upit mentioned an event which
occurred to himself not many years ago. His father
and mother-in-law were invited to a feast by the
Orang Kaya Apo : there was great drinking, and at
night most of the drunken guests slept in the house.
After some hours, Apo got up and killed Upit’s
two relations in their sleep ; perhaps, in revenge of
some old injury.

Upit immediately brought his complaint to the
Sultan, but no attention was paid to him. At
last one of the men about the court said, “ Why
don’t you revenge yourself?” The Sultan laughed,
and repeated, “Ah, why don’t you?” Upit upon
this went home and prepared his arms, and for
two years lay in wait in all sorts of places, but he
could never find Apo off his guard. One day,
however, he met him in the Trusan river, returning
from the Sultan’s palace, and shot him through the
body, and took his head. Upon this, the Sultan fined
him a hundred pikuls of brass guns (3,000 dols.),
not for killing Apo, but for disrespect to him in

SNAKES ON TREES.

73

shooting a man who had lately left his palace, though
the deed took place twenty miles away. Upit, by
great exertions, and by the assistance of all the
neighbouring villages, paid a portion of the fine. It
is an illustration of Bornean government.

7 th. — It appeared a beautiful night, but towards
morning it rained heavily. I turned round in my
bed, and made up my mind to lose another day ; but
at dawn, finding the river not so rapid as I expected,
I pushed off a fewr minutes after six a.m., and after
an hour’s heavy work, was rewarded by finding the
hills gradually receding from the banks, thus allowing
the river freer scope. As might be imagined, this
was a sign that we had passed the limestone district ;
gradually it gave way to sandstone, and with it a
more open country. The river soon became broader,
but shallower ; and though it necessitated hard work,
it was not to be compared to the difficulties we over-
came on the 5th.

During our progress up this river we have kept
very much along the banks, and have had to take
great care not to shake snakes into our boat. These
reptiles are constantly found concealed amid the
foliage of fruit-trees, or lying quietly along the
branches to catch unwary birds which seek their food
there. In fact, their colours so much resemble those of
the trees, that it is often difficult to distinguish them.
Musa one day pointed to a tree and said, “ There
is a large snake.” I could not see it, but on his
pointing to it with his sword, I noticed a brown
creature thicker than my arm, coiled round a bouo-h,
with its head resting near a bunch of fruit, waiting

74

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

the arrival of some unwary Pargam, the splendid
green pigeon of these forests. It looked exactly of
the colour of the bough on which it was resting, and
the green snakes are equally difficult to detect. There
is one with large regular scales, and a triangular
head, which is the dread of the native, and if its
poisonous qualities equal its offensive look, it must be
a venomous one indeed. These unpleasant neigh-
bours are, however, rarely seen, though pretty green
flower snakes may be occasionally noticed among the
bushes, or gliding over the blossoms on the look out
for insects. One of a bright green with yellow stripes
down its sides is no doubt a beautiful object, but I
dislike snakes of every kind. My men, who appear
to have as strong an antipathy to them, cut at them
on every occasion with their swords.

Land tortoises are continually dropping from the
overhanging trunks of trees as they hear the noise
of our paddles. We were once much startled by
a large animal springing from a high bough, and
falling with a heavy splash within a few feet of our
boat : it turned out to he a huge biawalc, or guana,
which, being alarmed, thus made his escape. The
guana is a species of lizard, growing to a great
length, and is the enemy of our poultry. My dogs
once killed one in Brunei which measured six feet six
inches in length. The whole pack attacked it ; and
while it was endeavouring to save its tail, a bold dog
seized it by the throat, and held it tight, while the
rest of the pack destroyed it. It is the onlv
instance I have known of dogs facing so large a
biawak; but they were of English breed, and all

THE FOWLS AND THE COBRA. /5

were ultimately killed by their unwary attacks on
the wild pigs.

The hiawaks used very often to pay us a visit at
Sarawak, as there was an extensive poultry yard, and
their presence in the day-time was always announced
by the loud cackling of the fowls ; if it wrere a small
one, the cocks and hens would gather round it, and
make feigned attacks upon it, and the beast, almost
bewildered by the cries of the circle of enemies, would
raise its head high and take a survey of them, as if
choosing which he should seize. We once succeeded
in approaching almost close to one, thinking we could
catch him, as the ground was free from brushwood,
but it quickly outran us, disappearing down a neigh-
bouring ravine. The Chinese are very fond of its
flesh, considering it very delicate eating.

I have also often been disturbed by the cackling of
the fowls, and going to discover the cause, have found
them attacking a snake which has unwarily ventured
in their neighbourhood. I one day saw about twenty
large Cochin cocks and hens surrounding some object,
and approaching near, saw it was a fine cobra, about
six feet in length. The reptile had its head raised
nearly a foot, and was making slight darts at the
fowls which ventured near, but unable to do much,
for as soon as it attempted to move, several pecks
were made at its tail. A friend who was standing
near, knocked the snake on the head, and imme-
diately all the inhabitants of the poultry-yard set upon
it and tore it to pieces.

After nine hours’ severe poling and hauling, we
came to a stop for the night at 4.25 p.m. I was

76

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

desirous to reach the Madihit, but the men were too
exhausted to proceed farther. We have not had
a bearing of Molu for some time ; we are anxious
for it, in order to determine our position. I got
out all the salt fish that was left, and divided it
among the men, to whom it was most acceptable,
as they had had nothing hut rice for many days.

After we had finished our supper, I called the whole
party together to discuss our future proceedings. I
explained to them the information I had been enabled
to collect from the Muruts ; that we might reach
the Adang landing-place by water, but that as we
advanced the country became more difficult ; and
that, in the present state of the river, it was imprac-
ticable to face the rapids ; that if we attempted the
water way and failed, we must return home, as it was
quite impossible to walk along its bank ; the hills
were too lofty and far too steep ; in fact, no one
would ever attempt it who knew anything of the
country. The second plan was to ascend the Madihit,
which could not he very far off — a mile or two —
then leave our boats, and walk across, the Murut
guides assuring us that we could do the distance in
seven days. I put it to the whole party to consider.
Musa, after a short consultation, said they would
prefer walking to facing even seven days of such
work as we had had ; and as it was twTo or three
days from the Adang landing-place to the houses, it
was better to start at once from the Madihit, leaving
the principal portion of our heavy baggage with the
boats. My heart was slightly despondent yesterday,
but to-day’s progress has completely cheered me up.

FLYING FOXES.

//

Just at sunset, we noticed a few flying foxes far
up in the sky ; they seemed very numerous, but were
almost beyond view. Sometimes, however, they fly
low, pursuing their onward course with steady flapping
wings. For two hours I watched them at the
entrance of the Sibuyau river, passing us by tens of
thousands, and all flying in one direction, doubtless
towards some place where they rest at night. While
preparing their tents, my men disturbed a huge frog
that appeared about nine inches long ; it was of a dark
gray colour. I was assured, however, that a full-
grown frog was double this size, and if one could
judge of their dimensions by their noise, when they
are heard in a marsh, one might readily believe the
Muruts’ account. I remember hearing the late
Mr. Hayes of Siam say that he had seen them there
with bodies as large as a full-siz'ed dinner plate.

8th. — We found the Madihit to be two miles
farther up on the left hank. The main stream con-
tinues broad, and is furnished with islands and im-
mense pebbly flats, reminding me of the portion near
the Madalam at very low water. The hills are now
at some distance apart, allowing broader and flatter
strips of cultivatable land along the banks. Our
last night’s resting-place was quite a level point ; we
brought up a little above it, under a jutting portion
of the bank, which was higher, and near it was
a beautiful natural bower which would have afforded
shelter for all our boats, had the stream risen high ;
some of the men encamped in it. The Madihit, a
short distance from the mouth, is but a shallow,
pebbly torrent ; and a little more than half a mile

78

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

up we were obliged to leave our large garei, and
take to the sampirs, most of the men following along
the banks ; and now, less than two miles farther,
we have to leave our boats, and take to walking.

We noticed a very handsome tree, whose trunk
shoots out almost horizontally from the banks : its
branches rise perpendicularly into the air, but let fall
on either side rows of long drooping twigs, covered
with elegant foliage. It was loaded with fruit, whose
long wings are of a beautiful pink colour, and amid
this forest it had a gorgeous effect. I believe it is
of the order Dipterocarpce. There is another very
remarkable one which grows on rocky soil ; its bark
strips naturally from the trunk, leaving a brightish
brick -red stem.

We have passed yesterday and to-day much young
jungle ; indeed, except where the hills are steep,
there are few old trees. The fish are very plentiful
in the river, but the rapidity of the stream prevents
the net from acting properly. Just before entering
the Madihit, I noticed a range of high hills, bearing
south-east, said to be called the Paya Paya in Malay,
the very difficult hills, and round their base the Lim-
bang ran.

No rain last night or to-day. I find it impossible
to continue writing, from the cloud of sand-flies that
are tormenting me. Plaving made a smoky fire, I am
at last rid of them. I have divided the remainder of
the rice, and find that the careful men have enough
for seven or eight days, while the improvident have
not enough for five ; so that they must carry sago ;
and, to my regret, Ahtan reports that all my tin-

CHINESE ON THE MADIHIT.

79

meats are left at home, but I have enough biscuit
for seven days ; in fact, I shall leave some behind
me for the journey hack. Our sportsmen again
missed both a deer and a pig ; so that, after having
had every day many chances, nothing has been
secured, though we have with us two of the most
famous hunters in the Limbang. I never had a shot
myself, as my heavy boat was generally behind the
others. The rock that forms the base of many of
these karangans or pebbly rapids is a dark gray
sandstone. By the barometer, we are 63/ feet above
the level of the sea, and as we have been toiling
up rapids since we left the Damit stream, it accounts
for this elevation.

The men have been working away, forming a cache
for the things that we must leave behind : it is raised
on four poles, so as to be quite secure from pigs.

To show how extensively the Chinese formerly
spread over the country, I may notice that they had
pepper plantations even up the Madihit as late as the
remembrance of some of the oldest Muruts.

80

CHAPTER IV.

MY LIMBANG J OURNAL — continued.

Start on the Land Journey — Our Course — Ascend the Rawan
Torrent — Attacked by Hornets — Native Remedy — Severe
Effect of Sting — Disturbed by Ants — Japer left behind —
Fresh Traces of Strangers’ in the Forest— Appearance of the
Country — Water Snake killed — Our Adventure with One —
The Swimming Cobra — Romantic but timely Meeting — Story
of Pangeran Mumein and the Murut Concubine — Malay
Revenge — Punishment of an Offender — Cause of the Borneans
being converted to Mahomedanism — Capturing the Daughter
of Johore — Independent Position of the Pablat Borneans —
Reach the Wax-seekers’ Hut — Flesh of the Wild Boar — The
Adang Muruts — Their Sumpitans— The Poison on the Arrows
— Melted in hot Water — Weapons purchased, not made by
them — Dress of the Muruts — Japer rejoins us — Continue our
Journey with new Guide — Method of catching Fish — Effect of
Loss of Blood by Leeches — Extraordinary Insect — The Fresh-
water Turtle — Its Description — Curious Fly — Poisoning the
River — Getting short of Provisions — Galton’s Method of
dividing Food — Adopt it — Improvidence of the Malays — Cry
of the Wahwah — Rejoin the Limbang — Omen Bird — Prepare
for Enemies — Quarrel among the Guides — Divide the Party —
Hard Walking — The Otter — A Fight with my Dogs — Still
beyond the Mountain — Find good Huts — The Stragglers — The
last of the Food — Ascend the Mountains — Exhaustion of the
Guides — The Remains of the Ham — Its Effects — Reach the
Summit — Descend to the Farms — Meet the Adang Muruts —
Hearty Welcome — Names — Recent History of these Villagers —
Kayan Attacks — Driven from the Limbang — The Geography
of the Country — The Houses — Cold, and Fire-places — Arrival
of my Followers — Sir James Brooke — The Friend of the
Aborigines — His Fame had preceded me — How Reports spread
— The Tigers’ Cave — Curious Story.

\0th. — I was so stung by hornets yesterday that I
was unable to write in my journal, and even now it is

ASCEND THE RAWAN TORRENT. 81

a work of difficulty. After some trouble, I got the
sampirs hauled up on the bank, to be beyond the
reach of freshes ; and all the things we intended to
leave behind were carefully stowed away. The sago
we left in the boats, none of the men choosing to
burden themselves with any of it, though I warned
them not to take less than seven days’ provisions,
but all warnings were useless.

Having divided the packages, we got away at
9.15, and started in an easterly direction for about
an hour and a quarter, then southerly for about two
hours, when we joined the small stream of Rawan.
Our course led us from one bank to the other of the
Madihit, crossing and recrossing it nearly every reach,
a most fatiguing operation, and trying to one’s feet,
over slippery sandstone rocks and pebbles. The forest,
though principally consisting of small trees, is tolerably
clear, and presented no particular difficulties, nor was
it so infested by leeches as in the neighbourhood
of Molu. At 12.30 we began to ascend a steep valley
(easterly), generally making the bed of the Rawan our
path. A mountain torrent never affords very easy
walking, and three of our men were so fatigued that
at 3.15, after six hours’ walking, I consented to
encamp.

It was in following the bed of the Rawan that
I was stung. Notice was given by the guide to
leave the direct path, and we all did ; but I suppose
some one disturbed the hornets, as they attacked me
with a ferocity that appears incredible : many flew at
me, but two fixed on my arms and stung me through
my double clothing. They poised themselves a

6

VOL. II.

82

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

moment in the air, and then came on with a rush that
it was impossible to avoid. The pain was acute, hut
I saved my face. I tumbled down the steep bank in
a moment, and, throwing aside rifle and ammunition,
plunged up to my eyes in a pool, until the buzzing
ceased, and the hornets had returnd to their nests.

Some of my men were also stung ; they squeezed
a little tobacco j uice on the w’ounds, and they say they
felt no further inconvenience. I tried it about an
hour afterwards, but it did me no good. I had no
idea that the sting of this insect was so severe : my
right arm swelled up to double its natural size, and
was acutely painful ; now, on the second day, it is
much less so, but as the swelling continues, it is im-
possible to use it much. In the night we were again
unfortunate, being attacked by the selimbada, a most
poisonous ant, which quickly drove us from the tents,
and compelled us to take refuge on a small pebbly flat
near the stream. Fortunately for us it was a fine star-
light sky, as we had to spend the remainder of the
night there. I have called the sting poisonous ; it is
scarcely that, as, though the pain is acute, it has but
little permanent effect. The little sleep I had was
due to the last bottle of porter that remained. My
men were so heavily laden, that had I brought a stock
of drinkables, I could not have had them carried. I
have with me but a couple of bottles of whisky and
one of brandy.

Having put my right arm, the most painful, into a
sling, I was enabled to make a start with the rest of
the party, except Japer, who had an attack of elephan-
tiasis. So leaving two volunteers with him, we con-

l'RESH TRACES OF STRANGERS.

83

tinued our course ; they promising to follow as soon as
possible after the fit was over ; they will easily catch
our loaded men. I would gladly have stayed behind
myself, as my arms were in a very unfit state to he
used, and I was compelled to carry my rifle in my left
hand ; but the fear of running short of provisions
made me push on. Having left the tents at 7-30, we
soon commenced ascending hills. Our course was at
first S.W., hut on reaching the summit of a ridge, we
followed it to the S.S.E. The guides had some
difficulty in discovering the path, which was com-
pletely overgrown. We found traces, however, of
recent visitors.

Leaving the ridge, we descended a stream called
Patra, where the guide said he wished us to remain
while ho went ahead to look for the path ; so that,
very unwillingly, I brought up at twelve, and our
guide started to explore. One of the traces we found
in the course of our walk was quite fresh, a human
footstep in the mud, not a couple of hours old, and
many broken branches. This caused as great excite-
ment as ever Robinson Crusoe could have felt when
he discovered the one on the sand ; and the whole
party collected to examine it. One man ventured to
observe, “ Perhaps there are enemies in the neigh-
bourhood.” At this I laughed, and suggested it
might be a wax-hunter, who, having caught sight of
us, has started off* to give notice of the approach of
our formidable party : the twenty muskets must make
it look formidable to him.

Our path to-day was rather difficult, as we had to
ascend many steep hills, and sometimes to move

6—2

84

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

along their faces, which is tiresome walking : it is
only on the ridges that our advance is pleasant. We
had a view of the Molu range through the trees,
and also saw many other mountain ranges, but no
sign of those extensive plains that we were promised ;
perhaps, however, we have not penetrated far enough
into the country. No portion of Molu appears to
drain into the Limbang, except through the Mada-
lam, the waters of its southern and western faces
being carried off by the Tutu and the Millanau into
the Baram. I have been trying to find some flowers
for Mr. Low, but we have as yet seen none, except
of the most trifling description. The waters of the
Patra are very muddy, there evidently having been a
landslip in its upper course, in fact I observed one
to-day that left the surface of a whole hill quite
hare. Our Muruts have just killed a large rock
snake ; they are now cleaning it preparatory to its
forming a portion of their dinner.

They surprised their snake basking in the sun and
cut off its head : hut some time before we were ascend-
ing a waterfall, and while looking at some flowers,
a friend accidentally touched a gray rock-snake
that lay lazily extended across our path ; I saw him
spring aside, and had but a moment to get out of the
way, as the reptile dashed past. On our return,
while choosing a good pool to bathe, we observed the
snake, which was about twelve feet long, vainly endea-
vouring to escape up a rock, and finding it could not,
it made a dash at us. We thought at the time that
it meant to attack us, but probably it was only an
endeavour to effect an escape. We drove it hack with

THE SWIMMING COBRA.

85

boughs to the deep pool before us, and then hurled
large stones at it till it seemed to be dead ; but on
descending to the water to get out the body to
examine, it had disappeared, diving into some hole or
crevice in the rock. The Malays have a great
dread of most kind of snakes, hut this they espe-
cially dislike.

The cobra is, however, the most disagreeable one,
particularly when met with in the water ; one tried
to swim across the river just below ourboat; as soon
as he saw us, he directed his course our way, not, I
believe, to attack us, but simply as something to rest
on ; but my men in great alarm gave way, and
escaped the beast. I have heard men say, that the
cobra will not be frightened back by beating the
water with the paddles, but must be killed, or it will
enter the boat ; if it succeed in doing so every Malay
would instantly spring into the water and leave their
canoe to drift away.

4 p.m. — Our guide has just returned, and brought
with him the man whose traces have kept us on the
qui vive. Our guide says that after walking about
half an hour, he was hailed, and after a distant
parley, the man approached, and to their mutual
astonishment they found that they were countrymen,
find that it was, in fact, his brother-in-law, in order
to visit whose sister he had joined our party, the
gay gentleman having left his young wife to go and
seek his fortune and another wife in the neighbour-
hood of Brunei. Such meetings sometimes take place
in romance, but seldom in real life. The stranger is
one of a large party who are now pig-hunting in

86

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

the neighbourhood, so that my chief fear — that we
should not find our way — has left me. We may get
a deer, as these hunters have just secured a pig. The
new comer says he thought we were a party of head-
hunters, therefore, did not make himself known to us.
He followed us for some time, and felt a great inclina-
tion to send a poisoned arrow amongst us ; but that
we were too strong. Very fortunate for him he did
not do so, or it might have fared ill with him.

Wth. — Our guide left us again last night to join
the wax-seekers, and we are now7 waiting his return.
I will enter the following story while fresh in my
memory. The Pangeran Mumein, the Shabandar’s
eldest son, took a Murut girl as a concubine ; she,
liowTever, vTas to stay with her father up country.
He paid, as a bri-an or marriage portion, a pikul of
bedil (133 pounds of brass guns). When she had
had her first child, he, as usual, got tired of her, and
told her father he did not want her any more, unless
she liked to follow him to Brunei. This was objected
to. A few days after, he said he should fine the
father for not allowing him to take the girl to Brunei,
where he would have sold her as a slave. He made
the father pay him back the pikul of guns, as well
as two more pikuls, and then said, “ Your daughter
may marry whom she pleases.”

After some time, she married one of her ow7n
countrymen. Pangeran Mumein hearing of this, in
a most unaccountable fit of jealousy, determined to
kill them all, and gave orders to Orang Kaya Upit
to seize them. The Orang Kaya hid himself, so the
Pangeran was obliged to employ the Bisayas, w7ho

PUNISHMENT OF AN OFFENDER.

87

caught the husband and brought him to the noble.
He had him tied up to the Orang Kaya’s landing-
place, and there cut him to pieces with his own hand,
taking his head and giving it as a present to the
Gadong Muruts. The father and girl escaped. The
Pangeran remains unpunished, probably unblamed.
Of course, there are two sides to the story : he
declares he had not separated from the girl.

The following is an instance of the punishment of
an offender : — Salam, of Bukit Manis, together with
his brother and his son, was accused of stealing buf-
faloes, and doubtless had done so, hut acting gene-
rally as an agent of Mumein’s in his rascalities. The
Sultan, wearied of the constant complaints against
Salam, gave orders that he should bo put to death :
his house was immediately surrounded and fired into,
and his brother and son killed. He then came out
into his garden, begging that he might be taken to
Brunei to be executed ; but after they had induced
him to throw away his sword, and fasten his own
hands with his handkerchief, so that he could not
immediately seize his weapon, they rushed in and
cut him down. Difference of rank, difference of
treatment.

There is an old Pablat man with us named Bu-
jang : he says that the people of his kampong, or
parish, as well as those of Burong Ping-e, descend
from Muruts, and that they turned Mahomedans
shortly after they captured the daughter of the Sultan
of Johore. This is the tradition or history : they
were, as usual, cruising down the Gulf of Siam, look-
ing out for prey, wdien they observed a prahu, gaily

88

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

dressed out with banners, pulling along the coast.
They gave chase, and soon came up with her, and
found the daughter of the Sultan of Johore, sur-
rounded by a bevy of pretty attendants ; they seized
them and carried them off to Brunei, and presented
the lady to their chief, who married her.

When the father heard of it, he sent a great
deputation of nobles to entreat the Murut to turn
Mahomedan, and marry his daughter according to
the custom of that religion. He made no difficulty,
but, on the contrary, invited the nobles to remain
and take wives in the country. Many did, and it
soon became a great rendezvous for the Malays ; in
fact, the other twenty kampongs are descended from
odds and ends of strangers, together with their wives,
taken among the aborigines. The rajahs all say they
are of Johore descent.

Bujang affirms that the Pablats muster nearly a
thousand fighting men ; and that, with the Ivadayans,
or Mahomedans of the Hills, they have an offensive
and defensive alliance, which enables them to hold
their own, and not be treated as the other kampongs
are. He wras very proud that they would not suffer
the rajahs to take their women, except with the
parents’ consent. It is a fact that an unbetrothed
girl, of decent appearance, can never be kept by her
parents. A rajah sees her, and orders her to be
sent to his liarim, that he may honour her by
taking her as a concubine. They, therefore, betroth
their children in childhood, and then they are
usually safe. He says, and the Bisayas have a
similar tradition, that Brunei was formerly a lake,

THE ADANG MURUTS. 89

that burst through into the sea near the island of
Ingaran.

3 p.m. — We have only walked two hours and a
half to-day, as, when we arrived at the hut of the
Adang hunters, our Muruts were unwilling to go far-
ther, hoping to come in for a very good share of the
flesh of the wild pig that was hung up around : so we
stopped, though anxious to get to a river. It is a
great luxury, after a walk, to get a bathe in a fresh,
running stream. Now we are encamped on an eleva-
tion of 3,000 feet, with only a very tiny spring of
water near. With the party of Adang Muruts
there is an old chief who has agreed to return with
us to his village, leaving his young men to gather
honey and wax. The few Adangs that we have met
have rather a heavy, forbidding appearance, except
the old chief and another.

Nearly all of this party of hunters were armed
with sumpitans, which were as usual of dark hard
red wood, and had a spear-head, lashed on very
neatly with rattans on one side of the muzzle, and
an iron sight on the other. The arrows were carried
in very neatly - carved bamboo cases, and were
themselves but slips of wood, tipped with spear-
shaped heads cut out of bamboo. The poison looks
like a translucent gum, of a rich brown colour ; and
when dipped into water of a temperature of one
hundred and fifty degrees, it began to melt immedi-
ately ; but on being withdrawn and placed over the
flame of a lighted candle, it instantly became hard
again. The butt of the arrow is fixed in a round
piece of the pith of a palm, which fits the bore of the

90

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

blow-pipe. The natives say also, that the juice from
one kind of creeper is even more virulent than
that of the upas. On inquiry, I find that none of
the people of these countries can manufacture the
sumpitan themselves, but purchase them from traders,
who procure them at Bintulu and Rejang from the
wild Punans and Pakatans, and are therefore very
dear, and highly prized, and no price offered will
induce a man to part with a favourite sumpitan.

These Muruts wrere furnished with war jackets and
helmets. The former were wTell padded, and thickly
covered over with cowrie shells ; the latter wras of the
same material, with flaps hanging, so as to protect
the wearer’s neck from poisoned arrows. I heard
that the supplying of cowrie shells formed a sort of
trade in the Trusan districts. These Muruts, like
those seen near the coast, often wear their hair tied
in a knot behind, and keep it in its place by a great
pin, fashioned something like a spear-head both in
size as well as in appearance, which is made, according
to the means of the wearer, either of brass or of
bamboo.

Our wTalk to-day presented no feature of interest :
a stiff climb to a narrow ridge, and then along
it rising gradually to the hunter’s temporary hut.
We but occasionally got glimpses of the country
through the trees, and it presents one general view
of forest, covering hill and valley. If we are to
take such short walks as these, the journey will be an
easy one indeed. I did not regret our little progress
to-day, as it enabled old Japer to come up with us,
his acute attack having left him. I never was in such

METHOD OF CATCHING FISH.

91

a country for bees : they everywhere swarm in the
most disagreeable manner, and ants and other insects
are equally numerous.

12 th. — There was much thunder and lightning
last night, with rain ; but, notwithstanding the con-
tinued drizzle, I got away before seven, the chief
sending his son. Our walk was more direct to-day,
as the path was well known to the guide, he having
just used it. The course was generally in a S. by E.
direction ; on the whole, over a very similar country
to yesterday ; got no view whatever. We crossed
numerous streams, as the Sahgin, Ropan, and Gri-
tang, and have now stopped at a very pleasant one,
the Lcmilang, encamping on a high bank about 100
feet above it (900 feet above the level of the sea).
We have done more work to-day, walking more than
six hours. Noticed some tracks of the tambadau.
The Kalio hills, perhaps 5,500 feet high, have been
on our left all day. The most active man I have
ever seen is a young Murut, who walked part of the
way with us to-day : he had a perfect figure, and is
the only pleasant-looking man besides the chief that
belonged to the party of hunters.

13 th. — I have little to enter, except that wre walked
five hours south-east, then four east, then another
north, passing over the same kind of country as
usual. The only noticeable event was catching some
fine fish in the Madihit, just below the junction of the
Rapaw and the Obar. The operation is simple ;
stones are hurled into a pool in the river ; the fish
fly for concealment under the stones and to the holes
in the rocks ; the men jump in and soon bring them

92

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

out of their hiding-places. They caught five large
and above a dozen small fish ; one was eighteen inches
long, and very fat. Ahtan was successful in getting
a fine one, which he is at present engaged in cooking,
so that we shall each dine off half of it to-night. The
scales are very large ; it is the same kind as I have
previously noticed in the Madalam and Tampasuk.

After this good fortune, we crossed the river, and
ascended the steep hill of Pakong Lubfing, till we
reached a little rivulet running into the Obar. I
really believe that the great loss of blood from leeches
is the cause of the faintness I feel to-night ; I have
pushed off hundreds, and the wounds continue to
bleed for some time. Perhaps this, and the very
heavy day’s work, may account for the strong dis-
inclination I feel to write my journal. The Muruts
are beginning to he full of dismal stories of enemies,
saying they have suffered much lately from the attacks
of neighbouring tribes, who have shot at them with
their poisoned arrows, many dying, including some
women and children. However, there is not much
reliance to be placed in such stories when told in the
woods. During the evening a very disagreeable-look-
ing insect kept attacking my candle. It looked like
a dead hut branched twig, and an ordinary observer
would scarcely notice the difference till he saw it
move ; its legs are represented by four dead branches.
There is another more common, that has wings like a
couple of bright green leaves. (Our camp 1,500 feet.)

The Murut guides are but scantily provided with
food, and search eagerly for snakes, tortoises, and
fresh-water turtle. The last would be a grand find,

TIIE FRESII-WATER TURTLE.

93

as it is often three feet long, without including the
head and neck : its upper shell and chest arc covered
with a soft skin, large openings being left for the
limbs, each of which has five fingers, three of them
armed with thin hut strong claws, those on the thumbs
being the largest ; the fourth and fifth fingers have
no claws, and their joints are such as to admit of
much movement in a lateral direction, particularly
the fifth, which, when the fin is distended, is at right
angles to the first three. The back is of an uniform
dark gray ; the upper part of the head dark olive green,
mottled with yellow spots ; the nose is prolonged into
a non-retractile, pointed soft snout, about an inch in
length, and the nostrils are rather large ; the tail
is about three inches long and very fleshy. Its
stomach, when opened, often contains many kinds
of fruits, particularly wild figs and some large
kernels, which, though not harder than filberts, pass
unbroken through his horny jaws, which appear, how-
ever, well adapted for cutting up food of this con-
sistence. I may add, that the lower part of its neck
is covered with a fold of loose cartilaginous skin, into
which it withdraws its head, with the exception of
the pig-like snout.

14 tli. — Walked to-day seven hours in a general
east-north-east direction ; in fact, from the range that
separates the Madihit waters from the Limbang,
the Adang mountains were pointed out, bearing east-
north- east. We had a distant view of some high peaks,
bearing due south, said to be those in the interior of
Baram. We had also a tolerable view of the Molu
range, which enabled me to fix our position. I found

94

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

to-clay, just as we were crossing the ridge, one of the
most curious insects I have ever seen ; it appeared
like a gigantic moth, above four inches in length, and
was of a brown colour, with a band of bright green
just across its neck ; although it had the look of a
moth, on closer examination it looked like a great
horse-fly. I have little to enter to-day, as the walk-
ing has been over the same style of ground, and there
has been no incident to vary the ordinary routine.
We pass a good many abandoned huts, with an
occasional deer-skin hanging up to dry, the mark of
the hunter ; and, to our great disappointment, we find
the same men have been poisoning the river with the
beaten out roots of the tuba plant, capturing all the
good fish near the encampment. Some of the hungry
ones strayed farther down, and saw several of a very
large kind, but they escaped into such deep holes that
it was impossible to get them out.

I am afraid our provisions are drawing to a close.
I see some hungry looks and other symptoms of un-
comfortableness among about half the men — all their
own fault. The careful have still two days’ rice ;
three, if they did not assist their companions : the
greedy ones have been trusting to my biscuits.
However, as I could not sit down to my dinner of
plain boiled rice with so many envying me, I told
my servant to take sufficient for ourselves, and then
divide the remainder of the biscuits into twenty- three
heaps. I remembered Galton’s plan, and making one
of the men turn his back to the little piles, I pointed
to a heap, and he cried out a name ; so that they
were fairly and without favour distributed.

REJOIN THE LIMBANG.

95

The non-careful men were very disappointed with
this plan ; they thought I should have only given
those that had no rice a share, hut that I explained
to them would be encouraging improvidence. A
similar thing occurred when I lost my boat at Molu.
The men, rather than carry rice, preferred trusting
to jungle produce, vainly hoping we could do three
days’ work in one. We are encamped on the Urud,
a tributary of the Limbang. The highest point
crossed to-day was 2,500 feet : our present elevation
is about 1,400 feet, after many ups and downs. One
of the most melancholy sounds in the forest is the cry
of the wahwah, and after sunset it sounded near us,
to he answered by a disconsolate companion not very
far off.

1 5th. — An hour’s walk brought us to the Limbang,
whose bed is here, perhaps, seventy yards wide, very
shallow, not reaching to the hip. It flowed from the
Siliiigid mountains, and is said, after skirting their
western face, to turn to the south-east to its sources in
Lawi. Si Nuri, one of our guides, pretended to hear
a had bird, and wanted to return, though we were all
struggling against the stream in the middle of the
river. As this was the second time he had done it
to-day, I would not stand it, so ordered him over;
however, to satisfy timid minds, I had the guns dis-
charged, cleaned, and reloaded. He said his ahgei
(omen bird) told him there was fighting at his house.
We then continued to Suhgei Rapaw, where we
stopped to eat our breakfast. The old chief’s son
was very much astonished by the rapidity and accu-
racy of fire of one of the revolving carbines. He had

96

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

never seen any firearms, unless they were common
flint muskets.

Shortly after again starting, I observed a commo-
tion among the guides, and was told that the new
man and Si Nuri, his brother-in-law, wanted us to
take a roundabout way, to avoid a country swarming,
they said, with enemies, who would shoot at us from
the jungle. This would entail the loss of another
day, and the climbing of an extra high mountain. We
preferred the enemies to the extra work, as our food
will be all finished to-morrow ; so the two guides left
us, and one of the remaining Adang men undertook
to find a road. It struck me afterwards that it was
merely a dispute about whose house we should go
to first. The Orang Kaya Upit and four followers
wanted naturally to go to their relatives, while Si
Nuri was anxious to get as quickly as possible to
see his wife and relations ; but as he could speak
little Malay, I did not understand his explanation.

Our new guide, turning north for a short time, soon
brought us to the Ropo, a branch of the Limbang,
which is, perhaps, a third less than the main stream.
From thence we continued our course north, climbing
up a steep mountain, about 2,500 feet in height ;
then turning to the north-east, we continued that
course till 4.10 p.m., when wre reached the Bapangal
stream. Including all stoppages and petty rests, we
walked about six hours and a half, and made about
eight miles. From near the summit of the high hill
we had a view of some fresh clearings which appeared
about seven miles off in a north-east direction. The
villages are said to be on the other side of the clear-

A FIGHT WITH MY DOGS.

97

ings, beyond a low hill. As we must have approached
these farms three miles, we cannot have more than
eight miles of walking before us ; at all events, I shall
do my utmost to reach the houses to-morrow night,
whether the men follow or not, as after the biscuit
division last night I have only rice for to-morrow,
coffee, and the remains of a bad China ham. Just
as we were crossing the Ropo, an animal slipt quietly
into the water, which I think was an otter. A few
days before leaving my house, I was witness of a
desperate fight between my dogs and a very fierce
female otter. They had surrounded a pool, and kept
her in it, but as it was very shallow a dog would dash
in and make a snap at her ; at last she seized one by
the nose, and would not let go ; the dog, a very small
English terrier, did not utter a cry, but struggled
towards the bank, when the whole pack fell upon the
enemy, and tore it to pieces. Yet in death, it did not
let go its hold, and to free the dog’s nose its jaws had
to be forced open with a spear-head. (Resting-place
1,300 feet.)

1 0>th. — Walking on till 4.30, after eight hours of
regular hard work, we have not reached the Adang
villages, but have a prospect of doing so to-morrow.
We have only the range of mountains to cross : yester-
day’s clearings and low hills we have passed. When
at 4.30 I sat down on a rock, with the rain pouring
down in torrents, and the men standing shivering
around me, I could not but feel a little despondent
when I asked the guide where were the houses, and
he replied over that high mountain: but observing
the men were watching me, I burst out laughing, a

7

VOL. II.

98

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

very unnatural sound it seemed, and said I thought
the Adang dwellings had vanished in the clouds.

Presently the Orang Kaya Upit came stealing hack
and said he had found two fresh huts that belonged
to a Murut tribe with whom they were at war, that
we must instantly retrace our steps half a mile at
least, and pitch our tents there. I was in a very bad
mood to receive such a proposition and told him that
if the devil himself lived in those huts, I would make
him give me a share of them to-night, and told him
to lead the way. Tired as he was, I could scarcely
persuade him that I was in earnest ; but, calling on my
Malays to follow, we soon made an advance towards
the dreaded spot, and then, after twice attempting to
lead us astray, the Orang Kaya brought us to the
huts, which had evidently not been vacated many hours ;
perhaps after they had got a distinct view of our party.
The ashes of the fires were still warm, and we had
no difficultv in rekindling- them.

As the rain continued to descend in torrents, we
were pleased indeed to find warm dry quarters, and
having extended the tent from one of the huts, there
was room for all. As old Japer and four of the
men had not reached us by half-past five, we dis-
charged our fire-arms one after the other to give
them notice of our whereabouts, in case they were
wandering within hearing. It likewise served the
purpose of intimating to the Muruts concealed about
that we were not head-hunters, these seeking conceal-
ment and not publicity. My best men having assisted
the improvident have but a poor meal to-night. Our
walk to-day was over very uneven ground, steep hills

EXHAUSTION OF THE GUIDES.

99

and numerous streams, among others the true Adang.
The last candle is going out, so I finish.

\7th and 18 tli. — My journal did not reach me till
this evening, so I must enter the two days together.
Japcr did not make his appearance during the night.
At dawn, finding I had a small biscuit a-man left, I
shared them out, and then started off at 6.30, hoping
to reach the houses, and from thence send assistance
to the stragglers. I gave notice that I expected no
man to wait for his neighbour, but to push on and do
the best he could for himself. Our route at first lay
over the low ground that skirts the foot of the moun-
tain, then up a tolerably easy ascent, one of the spurs
of the Adang range, that appears to run north and
south. After half an hour’s walking, I observed the
guides dart to an old tree ; I followed, and we were
soon occupied in devouring mushrooms ; after this
slight repast, we continued our course.

About 10 a.m. four of the Muruts dropped their
heavy burdens, intending to return for them next day,
and started off at a running pace. I was following
when I heard Ahtan’s soft voice say, “ May I come
too, sir?” I said, “Yes, if you can keep up.” This
was very well for a few hundred yards ; when, to my
surprise, I found a Murut drop behind, then the
Orang Kaya ; at last the remaining guide stretched
himself on his hack, and said he was done up. I
tried all I could to rouse them, hut with no effect,
until the arrival of the fifth Murut, who was one of
the baggage train, with half a ham, the last of the
provisions, and not good food unsoaked, without a
drop of water for miles, but I told the Muruts that

7 — 2

100

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

if they would try and reach the top of the mountain
I would then cook and divide it.

This roused two, and after much trouble wre arrived
at the first peak, there we stopped ; a fire was lit, and
with a chopper we divided the ham into great hits.
While cooking we shouted to the other three Muruts
to make haste, and presently we heard the Orang
Kaya begging us not to begin till he arrived. As
none of the Malays would touch it, we divided the
meat into seven portions, and they were soon de-
voured skin and all, and the hones crushed for the
marrow, Ah tan and myself eagerly joining in the
meal and securing our share. For a fortnight we
had lived on very unsubstantial food, and the great
exercise we were taking gave us appetites that scorned
being satisfied with simple boiled rice.

A few minutes after the meal was over, the
Muruts gave a grunt of satisfaction and started off,
and continued ascending till we had reached the
height of 5,000 feet ; where we struck off to the
north-east, down to a dashing torrent, one of the
feeders of the Trusan river ; here we bathed, then
off again up a very steep hill. This was too much
for Ahtan. He turned an imploring look on me, and
seemed ready to burst into tears ; hut I spoke to him
very angrily, asking him if at the last moment lie
intended to disgrace himself, and relieving him of my
sword, he pushed on, and in a few minutes we were at
the summit. Here we sat down for half an hour ;
then on, generally descending, sometimes excessively
steep, and it was with the greatest pleasure that at
5.30 p.m. I found myself at the edge of a great

MEET TIIE ADANG MURUTS.

101

clearing, still burning, with two village bouses at its
eastern verge.

Our guides bad a short consultation as to bow we
should announce ourselves to the people, whom we
could perceive working on the farms. At length Orang
Kaya Upit shouted out. There was immediately a
great commotion among the Muruts, but they soon
recognized the voices, and, as we forced our way
through the tangled trees that were felled in every
direction, they came forward to welcome my com-
panions. They soon explained who I was, and I was
received with great civility and with symptoms of
much curiosity. No wonder ; they had often heard of
the white man, but I was the first specimen that had
ever reached their country. Half way across the
clearing we met crowds of women and children col-
lected to hear the news, all of us being supplied
with sugar-cane to amuse us while a meal was pre-
pared.

At 6 p.m., just at sunset, we reached the houses,
and pleased was I to be able to stretch myself along-
side of one of their fires. This was the hardest day’s
walking we had had, ten hours of actual work, cross-
ing a double range of 5,000 feet in height ; and I was
both hungry and tired, and exceedingly enjoyed the
meal they prepared for us. The only drawback was,
that there were but Ahtan and one Malay to enjoy it
with me ; two, however, came in afterwards, but
fourteen succumbed to the fatigue and did not show
themselves. However, I was relieved of much of my
anxiety by the Chief promising to send out a party
at early dawn with provisions.

102

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

The Adangs were rejoiced to see my companions,
plenty of arrack was produced, and the news freely
given and received. They kept it up to a very late
hour. One family heard of the death of a near rela-
tive, and their wailing in the next room was very
painful. Gradually, however, the spirits they drank
began to have an effect upon my companions, and
they all dropped off to sleep, in which I was but too
glad to join them.

The only one of my Malay followers who kept up
with ine, and who, though one of the most improvi-
dent, had yet refused to touch the ham, although no
other Mahomedan was present, was called by his
companions Si Kurap, on account of a skin disease
which covered his body. The Malays very often
give nicknames, referring to some personal quality
or defect, which, as in the above case, takes the place
of the real name. One man I knew, who lived at the
town of Sakarang, was called Sauh Besi, the iron
anchor, on account of his great strength, and immense
muscular development. Others are called from their
low or high stature : Si Buntak, Mr. Short, or Si
Panjang, Mr. Long, or Si Juling, Mr. Squint, from
having that defect in his eyes. A very stout Chinese
trader went always by the name of Baba Lampoh,
or Mr. Fat. The women are called after the same
fashion. Si Buntar, or the round, was the name
given to a baby, on account of its plump appearance ;
and when she grew to be a woman and became thin,
she never had another name. Some are called Sulong
and Bongsu, the eldest and the youngest born, to the
day of their death, never receiving any other appella-

KAYAN ATTACKS.

103

tion. They have also the same custom as the Dayaks
of taking the name of their first-born, as Pa Sipi,
the father of Sipi.

According to the Orang Kaya’s agreement, a
party started off at daylight to search for my miss-
ing followers ; and I went out and sat upon the
stump of a gigantic tree, to view the surrounding
country, a little anxious about my men. The recent
history of the Adang people is a good illustration
of the injury done by the Kayans to the surround-
ing tribes. They formerly lived near the Adang
river, but extended their farms to the entrance of
the Madalam ; but they have been gradually driven
back, until they have abandoned the Limbang waters,
and now drink those of the interior of the Trusan,
the whole country from the Madalam being now
jungle. I do not imagine they arc nearly so nu-
merous as they were, as in the last great Kayan foray
they suffered awfully. They were, I believe, all col-
lected in their villages at some great feast, when the
Kayans, about 3,000 strong, set upon them ; the first
village was surprised, the fighting-men slain, the rest
taken captive ; the few fugitives were followed up so
fast as almost to enter together the second villao-e
with their pursuers, where the same scene again took
place. The burning of these villages, and the beat-
ing of gongs and talawaks gave notice to the rest,
and all who could fled precipitately over the Adang
range, followed by their relentless foes, who killed and
captured a very great number.

The view from the clearings at the back of the
houses is extensive. To the cast three lines of hills,

104

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

backed in the distance by a long range of mountains,
where the salt springs are found ; to the north there
is a fine valley, descending on either side in easy
slopes to the banks of the Trusan, and as a back-
ground there is a fine range of mountains. They say
the highest is Brayong, which rises opposite Labuan,
and is one of the loftiest peaks visible from that
island — direction east of south ; so that if these people
be not mistaken, I know my position tolerably wrell ; in
fact, this morning, before I heard the name, these
heights reminded me of the Lawas mountains ; but
they appear so close, that all my bearings and map
must be utterly wrong if the Muruts have not made
a very great mistake ; it is only one of the guides
that calls it Brayong. The distant eastern range is
said to shed its waters to the opposite coast.

The village at which we arc staying is but a very
ordinary specimen of a Dayak location. The houses
arc poor, though effectually closed in, to avoid, they
say, the poisoned arrows of their enemies, who are
continually haunting this neighbourhood, a very great
exaggeration evidently. From the clearings that arc
seen on every side, there must be a very fair popula-
tion assembled around these hills ; but their continual
petty quarrels have no doubt a bad effect on their
prosperity and their power to resist their great enemy.
There are about fifty families in this community, and
like many of the other inland Dayak tribes, each family
occupies but a small space ; the front verandah, closed
in like a long room, is filled with fireplaces, showing
that the Muruts of the plain find an elevation of
3,500 feet very cold. I had no blanket last night,

SIR JAMES BROOKE.

105

and had to get up about three, and have the fire
replenished, for I felt too cold to sleep ; they use very
large logs as the chief stay, and with a little care they
remain in all night.

I notice here many heads and akiks (agate beads),
but little brass wire. About twelve to-day nine of
my followers made their appearance, five Muruts
bearing their burdens for them ; they said that the
two lads of the party were quite exhausted, and
many of them, from eating the cabbage of the
rattan, had been vomiting. They only managed to
reach the river in which I bathed, and were found
there by the party of Muruts I had sent out ; five
Muruts continued the search for old Japcr and the
original missing four. I am afraid I shall not
see anything of them before to-morrow, as old
Japcr’s legs arc very much swollen. I had scarcely
written the words, when the report of two muskets
told me that they were not far off, and all are now
here hut Japer, who is slowly coming on behind. At
sunset lie arrived, utterly exhausted.

So suspicious had my men become from hearing
the Muruts describe the treachery of the head-
hunters, that when the relieving party approached
them, they warned them off, threatening them with
their guns ; the Muruts fortunately shouted out
Orang Kaya Upit’s name and then they were trusted.
While sitting round the fires this evening, I noticed
a sound like Brooke, and listening more attentively
I heard “Tuan Brooke! Tuan Brooke!” continu-
ally repeated. I asked what it was they were refer-
ring to. One of the interpreters explained how

106

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

delighted they were to see the adopted son (for so I
found I had been introduced) of the great Mr. Brooke,
the friend of the aborigines, the fame of whose good
deeds had reached even this very secluded people ;
and their only surprise was that he who had given
peace and happiness to the “ Southern Dayaks ”
should neglect to extend his benefits to the Northern.
They thought that a word from him would stop all
the invasions of the Kayans, and enable them to
return to their own regretted country.

I was very anxious to trace the means by which
intelligence was conveyed to these Muruts of the
peace and plenty that now reigned among the Dayaks
of Sarawak, and the way in which it reached this
tribe was very simple. When their communities
broke up on the Upper Limbang, some fled to the
interior, while others made their way down the river
to the country at present inhabited nearer the sea.
At rare intervals, a party would start to visit their
relations, and though, as I have shown, they occasion-
ally suffered heavy losses as at the Naga Surei rapid,
yet the practice was kept up. Sir James Brooke’s
name is of course very familiar wherever the Malays
extend, and, although many would try to prejudice
the minds of the aborigines against him and every
other Englishman, yet the effect would not be per-
manent, as they all remember and ponder on that
great event, the capture of Brunei by Sir Thomas
Cochrane’s squadron.

To those unaccustomed to these oppressed abori-
gines, it would appear incredible — the awe and fear
inspired by the Sultan and his nobles in former times ;

THE TIGERS CAVE.

107

and the idea was universal that the Bornean govern-
ment was the greatest and most powerful in the world ;
but our navy gave a rude shock to that belief, and
the joy among the aborigines on hearing that the
court was obliged to hide itself in the jungle, and
afterwards humbly apologize for its conduct, spread
far and near. They now began to give more credence
to the stories which had been spread by men like
Japer of the power of the English, and of the justice
with which our countrymen ruled men. Adang
visitors carried back to the far interior imper-
fect versions of these affairs, but what dwelt in
their minds was, that there were some of their
countrymen who were happy under the rule of Tuan
Brooke.

Though they knew something of him in this way,
similar stories reached them from other sources ;
slowly the news spread through the villages bordering
on the Trusan, and were carried up against the
stream to meet the same talcs brought over by the
Kayan envoys, who declared that Tuan Brooke
was their great ally, and therefore the Adangs were
anxious to secure his influence to put down the
Kayan forays.

The highest peak beyond the houses above 5,500
feet is called Lobang Bitnau, “ The Tigers’ Cave,”
about which they tell this story : that formerly a tiger
killed a woman ; the people turned out, and gave
chase ; the tigers, eight in number, took refuge in a
cave near the peak ; the hunters lit a great fire at
the entrance, and smoked them to death. Since then
there have been no tigers, but the place has been

108

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called “ Tigers’ Cave” to this day; and it is worth
noticing that the Muruts of Padas have a great
dread of ascending to the summit of some cf their
highest mountains, on account of the tigers which
still, they say, lurk in the deepest recesses of the
forest.

109

CHAPTER V.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — continued.

Women’s Ornaments — Adorning in Public — Confidence shown by a
young Girl — Geography — Leech Bites — Tapioca — The Manipa
Stream — The False and True Brayong — Nothing but Rice to
be purchased — Wild Raspberries — Good Shots — • The Rifie
Carbine — Death of a Kite — Picking a Cocoanut — Curious
Statement — A Village of Runaways — Proposed Slave Hunt —
Disappointment — Appearance of the Women — Old Look of the
Children — Devoid of Drapery — Preparing the Plantations — No
Goods for Sale — Edible Bird’s-nest Cave — Difficulties in pene-
trating farther — Determine to return — Climate — New Route — •
Custom in Drinking similar to the Chinese — Anecdote of Irish
Labourers — Change of Plans — Fashion of wearing Brass Wire
— Start on a Tour among the Villages — The Burning Path —
Village of Purte — Refreshing Drink — The Upper Trusan —
Distant Ranges — Inviting and receiving Invitations — Fatal
Midnight Revel — Tabari’s Village — Alarm of Orang Kaya
Upit — Suspension Bridge — Inhabitants — Scheme of the
Adangs to return to their old Districts — Deers’ Horns —
Mourning — Difficult Walking — The Tiger’s Leap — Meet Si
Puntara — No Real Enemies — Murud — The Gura Peak— The
Main Muruts — Salt as well as Slave Dealers — Bearskin Jacket
— White Marble — Uncertainty whence procured — Leaden
Earrings — Unbecoming Custom — Lofty Mountains — Lawi
Cloud-hidden — Muruts busy Farming — Two Harvests a Year
— Agricultural Produce plentiful — Obtain a Goat — Dress of
the Men — Bead Petticoats — Custom of burying on the Tops of
the Lofty Hills — Desecration of Graves — Jars — Discovery of
one in Brunei — Similar Millanau Customs.

September 19 th. — Many of the women in this village
wear fillets of heads round their heads to keep back
the hair ; it looks well at a distance, hut when near,

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MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

most of them arc so dirty that nothin g could look
well upon them. Here is a girl going out to the
fields to work, and she is putting on her ornaments ;
first, the bands round the head ; then a necklace of
heads of twenty strings ; then a chain made of brass
wire, each link four or five inches long, but most of
them wear the last ornament round the waist.
Perhaps she is in a hurry. One might suppose that
these adornments are worn in honour of our visit, as
they must be inconvenient to a woman at work.

Yesterday morning, while out walking, a young
girl brought me some sticks of sugar-cane ; her
companions remaining a hundred yards off ; for
this, in the afternoon, she was duly rewarded with
a looking-glass. I like this confidence, and detest
the system they have in some tribes of running away
shrieking — all false modesty, as they are seldom really
afraid. The trade in beads for rice appears brisk, and
so we need have no fear about provisions.

I have been trying to understand the geography of
this part of Borneo, hut I am exceedingly puzzled
by the position of Brayong ; it bears N. E. by N.
The valley leading up to these mountains is very
picturesque and park-like, with its extensive clearings
and clumps of trees scattered about. To the north
the hills slope gently to the rivers, and appear to
afford splendid spots for cultivation ; from this view,
even Brayong appears approachable by a very easy
ascent.

I am trying to make arrangements for a six days’
trip in the jungle, in search of new flowers, and also
for a reported edible bird’s-nest cave, the latter, most

THE FALSE AND TRUE BRAYONG.

Ill

probably, a myth. I am rather troubled by my feet.
I have seventy-three wounds on one leg, and seventy-
two on the other, all from leech bites, and some of
them are festering ; but a few days’ rest will probably
restore them to a proper walking condition. 41 1 dis-
like living in these little close houses, they are very
dirty, and there is little new to observe or to interest.
I prefer the freedom of the woods and the freshness of
the tents.

20 tli. — The women arc hard at work preparing the
tapioca for food ; they cut it into slices, then dry it,
and afterwards pound it to a flour. Took a walk,
notwithstanding my tcnder'fcet, as I dislike remaining
quiet a whole day. We went down to the stream which
runs to the eastward of the village, the Manipa (its
bed 2,957 feet) ; observed only sandstone intermixed
with quartz ; from thence we ascended to a village on
top of the opposite hill (height 4,403 feet), Purte
being the name of the rivulet that flows near it.

I might well say yesterday I was puzzled by the posi-
tion of Brayong, as it turns out not to be Brayong at
all. It is not thirty miles off, and the veritable Lawas
range, bearing N. 10° W., about thirty miles beyond
it. There is also a high mountain, part of the false
Brayong, bearing N. Now I am no longer puzzled :
the Orang Kaya Upit gave it that name from the
marked resemblance of the two ranges. There is a
curiously shaped mountain, whose eastern end is very
recognizable. I must sketch it in the geographical
journal, as I can easily recall it, if ever I ascend the
Trusan.

We found the village nearly empty, all the

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people being’ away at their farms. We could only
purchase a fowl ; there were two goats, hut the owner
was absent. The story of the innumerable goats has
indeed faded away ; we were equally unsuccessful in
our search for fruit, vegetables, or sugar-cane. On
our return we picked a great many wild raspberries,
which have not very much flavour, but they were
refreshing, and in many places the shrubs grew so
very thickly as to prevent any other vegetation
springing up, and looked like a deserted garden.
The plants have a very similar appearance to those
grown in England, and are pleasant to look at as
reminding one of home. The boys of the village for
a few beads collected them by the peck, till we were
completely surfeited by them.

I am not a good shot with the rifle, but in my life
I have three times startled the natives, and this I
did to-day. There were a great many men present,
chiefs of the neighbouring villages, and Orang Kaya
Upit told me that they had heard of the wonders of
the rifle-carbine, that could be fired five times without
loading, and they were all anxious that I should
discharge it before them ; so I looked about for a
mark, that if I missed would not be looked upon as
a great want of skill.

I observed a large kite perched on a branch of
a tree about a hundred and twenty yards off, so
I told them I would have a shot at the bird. I re-
membered that I had once before put a bullet from the
same carbine through a hawk, so I had some confidence
in the instrument. I fired, and the bird came down
without the flutter of a wing, pitching headlong into

GOOD SHOTS.

113

the jungle below. This intensely excited their
admiration. There is no doubt that skill in arms
has a great effect upon wild tribes, so I shall never
again attempt a difficult shot before them, for fear
I should weaken the effect of this one. The carbine
was an excellent one, manufactured by Wilkinson of
Pall Mall, after Adams’ patent.

Many years ago I landed at Cagayan Sulu, with
a large party to buy cattle. A few of the people
wrere most insolent in their manner, and they were
all fully armed ; after strolling about a little in the
blazing sun, we felt very thirsty, and asked the
owner of the house near which we were bartering, to
let us have a cocoanut. He pointed to them, and
with an insolent laugh said, “ You may have one if
you can get it.” I did not wait for a second per-
mission, but without a moments thought let fly at
the stalk and brought a nut down. I never saw
astonishment so visible on men’s countenances ; we
had no more insolence after that. It was a shot
that one might attempt a hundred times without
succeeding.

I mention this circumstance as it produced a
proposal that gave me some information of which I
might otherwise not have heard. I noticed in the
evening that the chiefs were more quiet than usual,
and that they were talking together in whispers and
constantly looking my way. One of them brought
me a basin of their native spirit, which is not strong,
so I drank it off. Then Orang Kaya Upit unfolded
their scheme : he said that formerly all their tribes
were very rich in slaves, captives made in their

8

VOL. II.

114

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

different expeditions, before the time they were so
broken up ; suddenly, for some reason they did not
understand, all the slaves from the neighbouring
villages fled in a body and built a strong bouse
a few miles away, from whence they constantly
harassed their neighbours, their former masters.
They were a bad people, thieves, and murderers,
the only disturbers of their peace : it was they who
came at night and shot poisoned arrows at the women
and children, killing many.

After minutely recounting the evil deeds of this
people, he said that the assembled chiefs had often
attacked the robbers’ village, but had never succeeded
in taking it. They had seen to-day the wonderful
effect of fire-arms, and they were quite convinced
that if I would join them with my seventeen Malays
armed with muskets, we could easily capture the
place ; that there were not less than sixty families, so
that there would be at least a couple of hundred
slaves to divide, and that they were willing I should
take as many as I liked for myself and men.

My followers looked very eagerly at me, ready
at my desire to enter on this slave hunt. I quietly
declined joining in the attack, as we had never
been injured by their enemies. To this they
replied that I should certainly be attacked on my
journey home, as these people would have heard of
my arrival, and would lie in ambush. I told the
Orang Ivaya that I would prefer waiting till that
event took place ; if it did I would turn back, and
join them in driving their enemies out of the country.
They were disappointed at my determination, and per-

APPEARANCE OF THE WOMEN.

115

haps my men had indulged themselves with the idea of
getting a slave apiece. If true, this story of the
village of escaped captives is very curious ; hut it
may have been invented to induce me to join in an
attack on a tribe of their enemies.

2\st. — Many of the inhabitants of the neighbour-
ing villages are coming in to see the stranger. The
women are remarkably ill favoured — broad flat faces
and extremely dirty, but with many head ornaments,
and some of them are tatooed about the arms and
legs. Many of the men and women wear round flat
pieces of metal or of wood in the holes of their ears
instead of earrings, while others have heavy pieces of
lead, dragging the ear down to the shoulder, like the
Kanowit tribe, I suppose to enlarge the holes to the
proper proportions.

It is curious to notice the very old look that many
of the boys and girls have, especially the latter :
it requires a glance at the bosom to discover whether
they are young or not. Their petticoats are of the
shortest, sometimes not eight inches broad, and are
scarcely decent. The Bengal civilian’s exclamation
on seeing the Sarawak Dayaks, “ It strikes me that
these people are rather devoid of drapery,” would
apply better to the Adang ladies.

We have purchased rice for twenty days at
extremely moderate rates, bartering with beads. Our
guide continues absent on a visit to bis relations,
which is the cause of our remaining so quiet. The
atmosphere around us is tilled with smoke from the
burning plantations, rendering it quite unpleasant for
moutb, nose and eyes : the clearings are very exten-

8—2

116

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

sive in many places, and as yet not half burnt. Their
cultivation is very slovenly — the regular Davak
custom of felling a large extent of jungle, then, when
dry, burning all that can be easily burnt, thus leaving
the trunks and large branches, and planting rice
between them.

I have observed but few tobacco-plants ; they
smoke what appeared to me a kind of moss, hut in
reality tobacco badly cured. They arc all anxious for
goods, but they have nothing to sell ; neither goats
nor honey, and but few fowls or vegetables, nor do
they appear to have wax, camphor or birds’-ncsts ;
rice is their only commodity, and that they have in
abundance.

4 p.m. — One of the great curiosities of these
countries is certainly the edible bird’s-nest caves, and
we were promised the sight of an immense one.
Lufigenong told us that once, when out hunting, he
had followed a pig into a large crevice in the rock,
which, however, opened out to an immense size in
the interior ; and that the sides wrere covered with
a mass of the white nest ; of course the old ones
would have been of no value, but had they been
destroyed, in a few months new ones would have
been built, and have been worth a great deal to
them. Lufigenong has just returned from a visit to
his relations, but though he still persists in his story
of the caves, he has changed a three davs’ walk into
a month’s journey in the forest : we must, he says,
carry provisions for the whole distance. This is
evidently an invention ; perhaps he does not want us
to visit his caves, so I have told him I won’t go. I

DIFFICULTIES IN PENETRATING FARTHER. 117

should like to reach the mountain of Lawi, but I
have only seven men who can walk.

22 nd. — I have almost made up my mind not to try
to penetrate farther into the country during this ex-
pedition. I think it would be much better to attempt
reaching the great mountain of Lawi by ascending
the Trusan river from its mouth. The whole country
appears inhabited, so that my men would not suffer as
they have done during our present expedition up the
Limbang : they would have no unusual fatigues, nor
any privations to undergo, and our chance would be
greater.

It is very improbable indeed that at this season I
can get much assistance from these villagers ; it is their
planting time, and they have a little of that feeling,
which we found so prevalent during our Ivina Balu
trip, of not wishing to help us to go beyond their own
village — a sort of jealousy that we may distribute our
goods elsewhere. Were my men well I should laugh
at such difficulties, and go without a guide ; but four
of my followers are really ill, eight more have very
sore feet, so that in reality I have but five efficient
men, which is too few to wander with unless joined to
the people of the country. I have succeeded in all
the objects with which I started except reaching
Lawi, and I have gained such knowledge and experi-
ence how to organize the next expedition, that I feel
tolerably assured of penetrating during the next
excursion very much farther into the country.

The climate among these hills must be very healthy,
the air is fresh and cool ; even in the middle of the
day it is not oppressive, except in certain places. A

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MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

few days’ farther advance would give us a very
superior climate. I regret that I have not sufficient
instruments with me to carry out all my views : but
even with the imperfect means I possess, I have added
considerably to my knowledge of this portion of the
interior.

We are making many inquiries respecting the
country below us, and the result is that we think
that by starting from Brunei with light boats and
lighter baggage, we should probably reach these
houses in good condition under twelve days ; which
would enable us to extend our travels immensely
during two months. I am longing to push on to the
range of mountains we see to the eastward, but after
five days’ rest few of the men have recovered from
their walk from the Madihit.

The men are drinking arrack around me, and it is
interesting to observe the custom of refusing the prof-
fered glass and pressing it on others, the contest con-
tinuing even to the danger of spilling the liquor. It
is so practised among the Chinese at Sarawak that a
cup of tea is often offered and refused by every one in
company before the holder will drink it. I must have
disconcerted many a thirsty man by accepting the
cup before I knew the custom. This puts me in
mind of an incident that took place in a rapid run I
made between the Cove and Cork. At the door of a
public-house were a dozen idle labourers : we stopped
there for a glass of ale, and in the exuberance of our
spirits ordered four quarts for the idlers : just as we
were starting, one of them stepped up to me and
said, — “ Sir, we never drink but out of our own pints.”

CHANGE OF PLANS.

119

5 p.m. — “ Unstable as water,” &c., I might almost
say of myself, as my determination of not extending
our journey has been upset by the Orang Kaya Upit,
who assures me that the people of the interior are
expecting me, and Si Nuri has just joined us with a
message from Si Puntara, the old hunter we met
in the woods, hoping we will come and visit him and
his people. So if nothing occur, wc shall start to-
morrow with such men as can walk, leaving the
others to recover strength at this village. I much
prefer this plan, as it will enable me to form a better
estimate of the facilities of reaching- the centre of the
island by this route, and I may yet get a look at
Lawi. I have constantly borne in mind the whisper
I overheard, that only certain privileged individuals
are allowed to get a sight of this famous hill.

I have seen many fashions of wearing brass wire,
but the most inelegant is that of some of the girls of
the neighbouring villages, who twist about a couple
of fathoms in circles round their neck, rising from
the shoulders to the chin, forming what appears* a
stiff collar with a very broad base ; it is, however, no
doubt more pliant than it appears.

23rd. — Commenced our tour among the villages by
walking over to the Purte houses : it took us two
hours in the broiling sun, although in a direct line not
above two miles, and by path not three, but we had
to descend about fifteen hundred feet and climb that
again ; the slopes of the hills very steep : besides we
were in no hurry, not intending to pass this village.
The leech bites prevent my wearing shoes, and the
way being completely open, with no shade whatever,

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the trunks of trees laid along to form a path were very
hot, making the soles of my feet painfully sore ; my
followers, lazy after a five days’ rest, lagged even in
this short walk, but as soon as we reached the houses,
a beautiful breeze refreshed us : hut even a long hath
would not cool my burning feet.

The village of Purte, or Sakalobang, one the
name of the rivulet, the other of the buttress, is
on a northern spur of the Adang range, which here
bends considerably to the eastward. It consists of
about forty-five families, and the houses are slightly
larger than the last ones, and less confined : this
village acknowledges Balang Palo as its head man,
as Si Lopong was of the last, and they know the
different villages by the names of the chief men,
rather than by rivers or hills. After our bathe the
villagers refreshed us with a sweet drink, unfer-
mented, made from the roots of the tapioca. I
notice here that deer’s horns are much used as pegs
on which to hang their swords and fighting jackets.
Most of the people are away planting rice, while the
neighbouring villagers are burning the felled trees,
and filling the air with their smoke. As we advance
we obtain better views of the interior, and here the
Trusan, under the name of Kalalan, is rather broad,
and might perhaps float a canoe.

I shall not make much remark about the country,
as I have taken the necessary bearings, and shall see
it all so much better from the upper villages. The
lofty eastern range is gradually appearing as two,
with in one place high white cliffs near the summit ;
it is too smoky for very good bearings. Noticed a

FATAL MIDNIGHT REVEL.

121

little boy wearing brass wire round the arm from the
wrist to the elbow, after the fashion of Sarawak
Dayak girls, and many of the absurd brass-wire
collars even on young children.

Every principal man seems to consider it necessary
to give Orang Kaya Upit, and the other illustrious
visitors, a meal or a feast, and it is amusing to watch
how the invitation is given and received. The host
draws near the crowd, and says, — “ Come,” the
visitors pretend not to hear : he again repeats,
“ Come,” more impatiently. They look at anything
rather than the speaker, and continue their conver-
sation with more earnestness than ever ; after innu-
merable “ Comes,” they at last get up and proceed
in solemn procession to the host’s room ; and this is
carried on throughout the day, the visitors becoming
redder and redder in the face as evening approaches,
the repeated draughts of arrack having their effect.
They gave me a little honey ; it does not look inviting,
but it tastes tolerably well.

8 p.m. — The whole house is in uproar, from the
news arriving of a man having been killed last night
during a drunken bout in a neighbouring village :
nobody knows who did it, so each of the men took an
oath it was not he : they hang up a string of tiger-
cat’s teeth, and the men pass under, denying the
action ; a man refusing to undergo this ordeal is con-
sidered guilty. The discussion among the assembled
chiefs is very energetic, as each man is trying to
suggest how the accident could have occurred ; it
being their custom when intending to spend the
night drinking, to lodge all their arms with the

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women. The most sensible conjecture was that the
spear shaken from its place by the boisterous move-
ments of the drinkers, fell without being touched,
and striking the man inside the thigh, cut the
femoral artery : they could not stop the bleeding,
and the man died almost immediately. At first
suspicion fell upon the owner of the spear, but he
evidently had not thrown it, yet they felt inclined
to fine the man for having possessed so unlucky a
weapon. The news of the accident threw a slight
damp on the party, and though they kept it up till
one, much to my discomfort, yet none of the carousers
got intoxicated.

24 th. — We advanced to-day four hours in a south-
east by east direction to the village of Tabari. I
thought yesterday I should get a clearer view at early
dawn, but a dense fog hid everything from us ; it did
not lift till nine, and then only partially, but it showed
that what appeared as the southern end of the long
range is a separate mountain, but as we shall in all
likelihood advance two or three days farther, it is
useless to speculate on the probable course of the
river. Our path to-day reminded me of the Sarawak
Dayak ones, being principally composed of trunks of
trees generally notched, disagreeable in descending.

As the morning was cool, our party kept well toge-
ther, except the Orang Kaya Upit and his relations,
who would have bad birds. They are evidently in
alarm ; what about is rather puzzling, as we are only
going to the houses of our last night’s visitors, but
they apprehend treachery, and are giving broad hints
about returning ; to this I will not listen, as they

TABAltl’s VILLAGE.

123

will state no reason for their fears. Tabari’s village,
unlike the rest, is on the main river, which thus
affords us pleasant baths; it contains twenty-three
families. Opposite the houses is one of those bamboo
and wooden suspension-bridges, thrown from one tree
to another, common in many rivers, and very useful,
though they are sometimes very rotten, and will only
bear one at a time. (Houses 3,127 feet.) Although
we stopped at Tabari’s house, the Orang Kaya Upit
would not, but went on to the next village.

These people say that they arc not Adangs, hut the
original inhabitants of the country, intermarried, how-
ever, with the fugitive tribe, and speaking the same
language. They may be people of the lower Trusan,
but I doubt if they have long been settled here :
there are no fruit-trees nor ancient clearings around
them, no sign, in fact, but of a rather recent settle-
ment.

I am promised a sight of the great mountain of
Lawi to-morrow. There is some talk of our return-
ing a new way ; I shall not object if I can get my
baggage brought on, as I like to pass over fresh
ground, and I may be able to get some hearing of
Molu, which I have not done since I left the
Limhang.

I forget whether I have mentioned it before, but
there is a scheme on foot of which the Orang Kaya
Upit is the originator, and he quotes me as his great
authority. It is this : that the Sultan should allow a
fort to be established at the entrance of the Madalam,
to be held by the Orang Kaya, to stop the expeditions
of the Kayans ; then that the whole of the inhabitants

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of the interior of the Trusan should move over and
farm between the Madalam and Madihit. There can
he no doubt that it would be a good thing both for
Brunei and the Muruts, as the Borneans would get
rice cheap, and the Adangs be able to supply them-
selves with goods ; few wear anything but bark now,
and as on the Limbang there arc both wax and
camphor, and innumerable rattans, they would have
no difficulty in purchasing cloths, which they already
prize. The Muruts would be too far off to be op-
pressed, hut near enough to trade. The Shabandar,
however, dreads anything like combination among the
Muruts, and would particularly object to their getting
beyond his reach.

Deers’ horns are plentiful in this house. Ahtan
has just counted forty-three used as pegs ; the skins of
hears, as well as those of the rimau dahan are also
numerous, nearly every man having a jacket of them.
The men evidently hunt a great deal ; their dogs are
all sleek and well fed, and I intend buying a couple
to take down the river with us.

There is apparently always something new to notice
in these tribes. I never before saw the following
ceremony: twenty-four girls and boys, w7ith a few7
grown women, are walking up and down the veran-
dah, chanting, “ Woh, weh, woh, Isana,” mourning
for the son of the chief, who has just been wmunded
up country. They march in Indian file, their arms
resting on the shoulders of the person in front ; it
appears to he a mere ceremony, there being very
little grief in the tone. At first I thought it might be
connected with the heavy rain and crashing thunder-

TIIE TIGERS LEAP.

125

storm that is now raging outside, preventing any
attempt at conversation. This promises us a rapid
if safe return, as we have had rain at night for the
last few days.

These people wear many rings of lead up the rim
of the ear, as I noticed among the wax gatherers.

I have just heard that it was a relation of the
Orang Kaya Upit who wounded the chiefs son,
which explains the had omens and the fears. Absurd
fellow not to have explained the reason, because we
could then have all gone on together !

25 tli. — We advanced about four miles in a S.E. by S.
direction to the houses of Si Nina, where we break-
fasted. The track was generally along the banks of the
river and very bad walking indeed ; constant landslips
having destroyed the path, we had to crawl along
over the loose earth, sometimes finding it impassable ;
we were then obliged to descend to the foaming
stream below, hard and dangerous work after last
night’s rain. Among the valleys small plains, slightly
undulating, are to be met with ; otherwise the cha-
racter of the country is a general succession of steep
hills. At one place two rocks were pointed out to
me in the stream about thirty feet apart, called the
Tigers’ Leap. I made many inquiries about these
animals ; they insist that eight came to their country ;
that they were not tiger-cats as I suggested : if such
animals were ever here they might have escaped from
cages in the capital : it was a common custom among
the far eastern princes to keep these ferocious crea-
tures, but I never heard of Bornean princes doing so.
I have read somewhere that formerly there were a

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few tigers on the north-east coast, probably let
loose by strangers as the ancestors of the elephants
were.

Si Nina’s village contains about forty families,
if we follow the numbers of doors, though he himself
says fifty, and their lazy habits may induce two
families to live in a space not fit even for one. Here
we met Si Puntara, whom we accompanied two miles
in a south-west direction to his village on the slope of
a hill ; it consists of two houses and perhaps forty
families. Tapioca is extensively grown round this
village, and the clearings are immense. What proves
to me that the stories of constant harassing enemies
arc exaggerations, is that all these villages keep their
rice granaries at some distance from the houses,
where they might be destroyed without any danger
or difficulty ; to this the Muruts would answer that
their enemies seek heads, not rice.

The mountain at the southern end of the first
eastern range, called by the natives Murud, or “ the
mountain,” bears south-east by south, and in a
straight line is perhaps not more than three miles off.
(Houses 3,679 feet). Orang Murut simply means a
mountain man, or a mountaineer, hut is now used
for a particular class of aborigines. Standing near
the rice granaries of Si Puntara’s village we had a
fine view of the ranges that ran from north to south,
whose lengthened summits showed occasionally white
cliffs, but there was a peak not many miles from us,
a little to the eastward of south, called Gura, and
from its summit they said on a fine day the eastern
coast was visible, with the broad sea beyond, and at

THE MAIN MURUTS.

127

its base and beyond it live the Main Muruts, who arc
the great suppliers of salt.

There are some of the Main Muruts here. I have
asked for a guide to their houses ; I am promised one
if I will remain another week, but as that excursion
itself would take us eight days, I must not think of
attempting it, as even now I shall not be back to
Brunei within the time I promised. The Main Muruts
are not only salt but slave dealers. I have noticed but
one of them, and he in his pride has beaten out a
brass gong into a broad belt a foot across. He is a
forbidding-looking fellow, with a hair lip. They say
the salt water issues from a spring, and is collected
in small ponds, and then boiled for the salt ; it looks
dirty, and has a peculiar flavour, as if it had much
soda in it. The Orang Kaya Upit, with a bad omen,
has again deserted us, so that we are without a proper
interpreter.

2 Qth. — In looking at a bearskin jacket, of which
there are a great many to be seen about, I for the
first time saw a specimen of the Batu Gading, “ ivory
stone,” in fact, white marble. They say the Muruts
of Limbang sell it. I should like to know from
whence they get it ; those I have asked say from
Baram. I remember passing a mountain or hill in
that river that they called Batu Gading. Sent a
party to find if the Orang Kaya Upit had been able
to purchase a deer or a goat for us. Many of the
women, as I have before noticed in the men, wear
leaden rings along the edge of the car ; the lobe
being brought down to the shoulder by half-a-dozen
heavy ones.

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MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

About 1 1 a.m. started in a south-west direction for
about a mile and a half, to the top of a hill, from
whence there is usually a view of Lawi in a south-west
direction ; all the mountains, however, are hidden in
clouds, but it must be a high one if remarkable among
its towering neighbours. The whole appearance of the
country is mountainous, each range becoming more
lofty as we approach the hidden interior. From an
elevation of about 4,348 feet, the two mountains next
us looked very high, perhaps between 7,000 and 8,000
feet; they say these are the children, Lawi the
father.

. Were the people not so busy with their farms, and
I so pressed for time, I would try and reach Lawi, as
there are people residing at its foot ; hut I must put
it off till next expedition, when I hope to pass the
mountain.

These people are very well off, on account of
planting rice twice a year, one kind called Asas
being ready in three months, the other in five months.
They have plenty of the great essential rice, and
trust to hunting for most of their flesh ; they, how-
ever, keep pigs and a few fowls. Tapioca is a mere
weed ; dressed as a potato it is excessively indigest-
ible ; I have observed some sweet potatoes, and also
some yams and Indian corn. They have no fruit-
trees, contenting themselves with a few bananas.

Orang Kaya Upit has so far got over his fears,
that he has made his appearance, following in the
train of a goat, which has been the loadstone to draw
him here. I think our farthest resting-place has
been reached, as I talk of returning to-morrow, and

DRESS OF THE MEN AND WOMEN.

129

calculate that should no unforeseen event take place,
we may reach Brunei by the 11th October. The
plan of returning by an entirely new road has been
given up, as it would require our remaining here till
all the rice is planted.

I have seen quite as much of the country as I
expected, penetrating as far, though not quite in the
direction I had calculated. I thought we should
have made a general S.E. by S. direction from the
Madalam, but I think we must have advanced S.E.
by E. instead.

Many of the men have broad belts of bark, which
are worn partly over the chawat, something after the
fashion of the Belcher’s Sagais of the eastern coast,
if I remember right ; their chawats here arc often
absurdly small, not even answering the purpose for
which they are intended : one or two have head-
dresses of bark, ornamented with little cowrie-shells,
the breadth being sometimes five inches, differing
from the padded helmets we saw on the wax seekers ;
heavy necklaces of beads are worn by the men as
well as by the women ; a few of the young girls have
petticoats composed entirely of beads, on a ground-
work of cloth or perhaps bark.

As I have advanced into the country I have noticed
many clearings on the ridges of the highest hills —
perhaps fifty yards in length. It is in these places
that the bones of their chief men rest. As far as I
understand their ways, they place the corpse in a sort
of box, fashioned sometimes like the body of a deer, or
what a Murut fancies is a resemblance, until all the
flesh is dissolved from the bones ; these are then placed

VOL. n. 9

130

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

in a jar, and left on the lofty spots I have mentioned.
I noticed many of these jars in my forced march from
Molu, above the sites of the old Tahun villages, and
to the intense disgust of my guide they were found
broken, and the skulls extracted by the marauding
Kayans.

I lately, also, discovered one near my house with
the bones nearly dissolved. It was most probably
buried there before the Borneans turned Mahomedans,
as no Muruts have lived on the hills near the capital
since, at least so says tradition. It was found a
couple of hundred yards from the site of the old East
India Company’s factory, which was abandoned about
eighty or ninety years ago. The poor men are said
to have their bones buried, while the chiefs have
theirs added to those of their ancestors. I hear the
Millanaus follow a custom somewhat similar. When
a chief dies, they place the body in a shed with a
raised floor, and cover it over with sand : they leave
it there, till all the dissolvable parts have run through
the open flooring, and when the remains are perfectly
dry, they collect and place them in a jar. All the
relations and friends arc then summoned, and they
feast and rejoice for seven days.

I have procured some honey to-day, as I strongly
suspect I shall have little but plain boiled rice to live
on during the journey hack.

131

CHAPTER VI.

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL — Continued.

Commence the return Journey — Kayan Embassy — Indian Corn —
Confidence of the People — Ophthalmia — Old Jar — Gratitude
rarely shown — Anecdote — Warning to Amateur Doctors —
Bezoar Stones — Arrangements at Si Lopong’s — A Nightcap —
Desertion of our Guides — Murut Music — Start for the Adang
— Warned of Difficulties — Abundance of Rice — Cross the
Adang Mountains — Active Girls — The Ancectochilus — Attack
of Fever — Arrangements in case of its continuance — Loss of
Chamber to Revolver — Reach the Adang — Legend — Construct
four Rafts — Pleasant Movement — Trying Position of one of the
Men — The first Rapid passed— Difficulties at the second —
Bold Swimmer — A Whirlpool — Danger of Drowning — Our
Raft tested — Abandoned — The rest wrecked — Pass the Umur
— Reach the Limbang — Construct fresh Rafts — Uneasy Anti-
cipations— Heavy Fresh — Fine Specimen of a Raft — Push off
— Dangers and Troubles — The Rafts ungovernable — The Roar-
ing of Waters — Overhanging Cliffs — The Cataract — Awe of
the Men — Shoot the Cataract — Narrow Escape — Its Height —
The Men recover their Voice — Ineffectual Attempts to stop the
Raft — Caught in a Whirlpool — Safety — Arrival of the other
Rafts — Dangers ahead — Walk — Abandon the Rafts — State of
Provisions — Nearly all consumed — Ahtan’s Secret Store —
Rocks — Advance over the Kalio Hills — Sparing the Food —
Exhausting climbing — “ Jog on” — Feed on the Cabbages of
the Bengkala Palm — Almost a Mutiny — Facing the Difficulty
— Reach the Summit of the Paya Paya, or “ very difficult ”
Hills — Night on the Summit— Our Tent — The last Fowl — •
Molu — The greatest Difficulties passed — Country more open —
Follow the Banks of the River — Distress of the Men — Impro-
vidence— Curious Sounds in the old Forest — Cx-y of the Argus
Pheasant — of the Jelatuk — Rending of a Mighty Tree — Danger
from Decaying Trees — Cock-fights among the Argus Pheasants.

2 7th. — Returned by a new path, and a shorter one,
to Tabari’s house. Again Lawi was so covered with

9—2

132

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

clouds that nothing but his base could be seen : it
appeared about fifteen miles off in a S.W. direction.
I hear that the Limbang rises in [that mountain.
There are houses at its base, two of which were
lately attacked by the Kayans and destroyed. Just
before my arrival the Kayans sent over six men to
inquire whether the Muruts of the upper Trusan
would submit to them and pay tribute ; if they would
do so all attacks should cease. It is very probable
that these men came over as spies, to find out the
easiest way of reaching the upper country. I missed
them by a couple of days.

We stopped to breakfast about half a mile before
we reached Tabari’s village, at a house that was
literally overflowing with Indian corn. We should
have laid in a stock but that they asked absurd
prices. Everywhere the people of the country were
busy planting, and we continually came upon parties
working in the fields. They showed no fear what-
ever, the news having spread very rapidly through
the country that our objects were friendly. From
Tabari’s we followed the old path to Ballang Palo’s,
where we rested the night. In passing through this
village, P had given a man afflicted with sore eyes
a little sulphate of zinc : he already had found, or
fancied he found, some benefit from the medicine, and
in remembrance brought me a jar of arrack, contain-
ing about three quarts, which he insisted I must
drink. The old jar was a curious specimen of former
Chinese work, which had most probably been with the
Muruts for many generations. It was blue, with
numerous figures of dragons upon it.

WARNING TO AMATEUR DOCTORS.

133

As the sulphate of zinc had once acted well, I found
numerous customers for it, a great many being
troubled with sore eyes, perhaps from crowding over
their smoky fires during the cold nights. I mention
the circumstance of the poor fellow bringing the
arrack, as, how grateful soever they may be in their
hearts for a kindness, they seldom show it. I have
not known half a dozen instances during my whole
residence in the East. It is not always quite safe to
administer medicine, particularly when the amateur
doctor promises that a cure will result from his
exertions, as the following story will show. A Bukar
Dayak had a son, who fell ill of the small-pox, and a
native doctor offered his services, assuring the father
he could cure his child ; unfortunately for him, how-
ever, notwithstanding all the medicine he adminis-
tered, the child died, when the father, accusing him
of having wilfully caused the death of his son, drew
his sword and killed him on the spot. As this event
took place while the Bukar tribe was still under the
authority of the Sultan of Brunei, a fine only was
inflicted for this summary act of vengeance. We sat
up rather late, hut as we had no man with us, who
could freely converse in their language, the Orang
Kaya Upit having stayed behind on a trading specu-
lation, we could only drink together, and look very
solemn. I have noticed the very few marketable articles
these people have for sale, but one of them brought me
to-day a very large bezoar stone, an inch and a half in
length, and two and a half in circumference. Thev sav
they procure them from the monkeys, whom they kill
to seek for this stone, and while some affirm they find

134

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

thorn in the head, others declare they take them from
the bladder. The ones I have seen are of a clear
brown, highly polished, and not heavier than a
similar piece of very light wood.

28th. — On to Si Lopong’s. I found that even
Murut arrack is a very bad assistant to exertion. I
stayed this night at the house preparatory to a start
in the morning. We are in great hopes that some of
the Muruts will walk with us as far as the spot where
we intend to construct rafts, and thus give us a good
stock of provisions to commence operations upon ; but
nothing could be arranged on account of Si Lopong’s
absence. In the evening he came home, and im-
mediately brought out two basins of arrack, one of
which he handed to me, and said we must drink in
remembrance of our friendship. Having complied
with his desire, I began to enter into our business,
but before I could utter a dozen words he lay back on
his mat and was fast asleep. He had arrived drunk,
as no doubt, at every village, he had been feasted ; and
the last bowl of arrack was the night-cap. Seeing
that it was hopeless to attempt to wake him, I put otf
our conversation till the morning.

The men I had left behind I found tolerably re-
covered, and all were ready for a start ; that is, if
anybody could be found to carry the baggage. Most
of the guides had given up their intention to return :
Si Nuri intended to spend a month or two with his
first wife ; Kadayan was kept by his family, and Lungc-
nong would not start without the Orang Kaya Upit ;
so that unless I wait here some time, we must trust
entirely to ourselves. The way to the Adang is not

MURUT MUSIC.

135

very difficult to find. Waking during the night, I
heard some sounds almost as musical as those pro-
duced by a bagpipe ; it came from a Murut near at
hand, who was perhaps serenading his mistress. I
examined the instrument he used, and it was very
simple to produce so many notes. Two thin bamboos,
about twelve inches long, were fastened very neatly
side by side ; in one was cut four holes like those in
a flute, while the other had a long piece of grass
inserted in the lower end. A slight incision was then
cut across both towards the upper portion. The
performer thrust this instrument rather deep into his
mouth and blew, and then, with the aid of tongue,
fingers, and moving the grass, produced some very
agreeable and wild tunes. I watched him for some
time as he sat by the side of a flickering fire, but
being tired, it at last lulled me to sleep.

29 th. — Si Lopong is naturally very unwilling to
start without his relation, the Orang Kaya Upit ; he
says that he cannot be many days, as he has only to
wait for the return of the party of Main Muruts, who
have gone to fetch him some slaves. This settles the
question, and I start without guides. Unfortunately,
the Orang Kaya has with him the hunting dogs I
purchased at Tabari’s. Our intention is to walk to
the Adang River, and construct rafts on which to float
down the stream. The Muruts have always warned us
that it is too full of cataracts, rapids, and huge rocks,
to be descended by rafts, and that, if they fail us, the
country is impassable ; but my men are eager to try
the easy method of returning, and I am desirous of
following the course of the Limbang.

136

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

6 p. m. — We got away at 9 a.m. I explained
to my men that I would not allow our guides to bring
slaves into our party ; that all the shame of the trans-
action would fall on me ; and that if the Orang
Kaya attempted it, I would take away his boat, and
let him find his way home overland. There was rice
of ours sufficient for a month’s consumption, and I
strongly advised the men to remember how they had
suffered in their former land journey. They all
promised to take twelve or fourteen days’ provisions,
and I took eighteen days’, dividing it among all the
men, each to carry a day’s rice for me.

We found the Adang range a very stiff climb, and
before wre reached the top I had to relieve Musa of his
double barrel, he was carrying so heavy a load. At the
stream we met two hunters, and endeavoured to per-
suade them to lend us a hand for one day, but we
could not bribe them. It is astonishing what habit
will do. A young girl, not above thirteen, came part
of the wav with us to assist in carrying a relation’s
burden, and she walked up that steep mountain, com-
paratively with the most perfect ease. I here found
some of those beautiful Ancectocliilus which Mr. Low
wanted. I collected about a dozen, all I could see,
and put them into a tin pepper-box, with holes in the
top, to try whether they Avould keep. They are the
most taking plants I have ever seen, with leaves
through which lines of gold, or white, or bright red
run, forming a lovely pattern. I have been shown
some of the very plants I collected, nowr growing
luxuriantly in England, and they are the most delicate
looking ornaments for a hot-house.

AN ATTACK OF FEVER.

137

After much exertion, we got about half way down
the western face of the Adang range, the rain pouring
heavily ; so at five p.m. we came to a stop and pitched
our tents.

30 th. — The rain still continued, but we pushed on
by the old path till we came to a small stream, called
the Batu Loba, where we found some freshly con-
structed huts. After bathing, I felt very feverish,
and taking a dose of quinine, a large basin of rice-
water, and wrapping myself up in all the dry clothing
I had, I burst into a profuse perspiration. It was
not a very agreeable night for me. I lay in my tent
alone : the men, except Musa, who watched over me,
preferring the hunters’ huts, as the floor was there
dry, and they had no time to make a raised floor
in the tent for themselves, as they did for me.

The rain was coming down in torrents, which pre-
sently increased to a terrific thunder-storm. The wind
did not affect us much, we were too low, in a hollow ;
but I thought if this really be fever, what a prospect
for me in this forest. I called Musa, and made every
necessary arrangement in case I should be delirious
in the morning : that two or three men should
stay with me, and the rest go back to the houses ;
that if I grew worse, the Muruts might be engaged
to carry me to their village ; and that when I
recovered, we should go home by the Trusan, aban-
doning the boats, instruments, and everything.

I need scarcely say how joyful we all were, when in
the morning I got up without any fever, and only a
little weakened by the slight attack. I thought at
the time that it might be from over-fatigue, as I had

138

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

not only carried all my instruments and arms, but had
assisted others. Some one during the night must
have been amusing himself with my revolver, as
shortly after starting, on withdrawing it from its
cover, I found the chamber gone, rendering the
weapon useless till our arrival at the boats, where
I had left a spare one ; so I gave up the carbine, and
took to my double-barrel.

October 1st. — Continued by the old path to the
Adang ; hitting it, however, a little to the northward
of the point where we previously crossed it. Here we
prepared to make the rafts on which we intend to
continue our journey. We found plenty of material —
light wood, bamboos, and rattans, &c. ; so we encamped
on a pebbly bank, the men hoping to be soon joined
by the Muruts. During our walk to-day, while fol-
lowing the ridge of the Batu Put hills, we observed
on its summit two large boulders, one some twenty-
five feet in length. They appeared to be granite,
but I could not break off a piece. They bear that
rather immodest name from the following legend : —
That a famous chief of yore, disdaining to make his
nuptial-couch on the grass, fetched up these huge
stones to sleep on ; and they point to some marks as
the impression made by his bride’s limbs, which, with-
out much stretch of fancy, might be taken for the
mould of a foot and leg.

2nd. — Occupied in making rafts. The rain last
night produced a flood : the river rose about five
feet, not many inches below the tent, and is in a
capital condition for a start ; but making the rafts
has occupied more time than I expected, and we

CONSTRUCT FOUR RAFTS.

139

cannot set out to-night. The Orang Kaya Upit
has not made his appearance : I only regret the
rice we left at Si Lopong’s — he may come to-night ;
but I have never expected him to follow so soon.
It has been showery all the afternoon, and I fear a
wet night. We have made four rafts : old Japer
commands one with three men, Minudin with three
more, Lamit and three, then Musa, with three
Malays, a boy, Ahtan, and myself. Ours is a very
strong raft of bamboo ; the others appear hut very
shaky affairs, the men being too lazy to work well
at them.

5th. — Started early ; at first all went smoothly
enough. The river was sufficiently deep, though it
had fallen. We began to congratulate ourselves on
the charming sensation of gliding down the stream,
with only the occasional trouble of pushing the raft
from the bank. The first notice we had that all was
not to be smooth water was seeing- in a lono- reach
a rock in the centre, with a dashing, breaking fall on
either side ; and on this rock was one of our men
standing, the very picture of despair. Three rafts
had passed, and his only chance was to jump on to
ours. We came rushing towards him at a tremen-
dous pace, trying to keep as near the rock as
possible to give him a better chance, and in
doing so, caught it, which threw the raft right
across the stream : it rose to an angle of 45°, and
we all thought it was going over, when the broad
surface presented to the water raised it up, and it
slipped past the rock. The man, after having assisted
in moving it, stood still, and we had nearly passed

140

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

liim ; I yelled at him, which brought him to a sense
of his danger : he made a bold spring, and just
succeeded in reaching the raft. Had he remained
where he was, he must have sprung into the boiling
surge, hoping that we could pick him up if he
reached the smoother water.

On arriving at the next difficult rapid, it was
proposed to take out the baggage, and then pass the
rafts down, as the first had already been buried in
the water, and everything was wet through. This
was tiresome work. It is always* difficult to pack
and unpack during the day’s journey ; but after an
hour’s hard work, we had passed all the things down
to the bottom of the rapid, except a large tambok, or
basket three feet high, made from the covering of the
sago-palm stem. This the owner thought he would
take with him on the raft ; but just as he started,
a wave struck it, and it rolled into the water, and
went dancing down the stream : it was full of
valuables of mine and the man’s clothing. The bold
fellow sprang after, but too late to reach it before
it sank ; he, however, dived till lie fished it up.

Our pride in our rafts was fast leaving us when,
about an hour afterwards, we saw one of the smaller
ones rushing round at a frantic pace in a whirlpool,
and three men trying to save one of their companions,
whose head we could occasionally see bobbing up : we
were on them in a minute ; our strong raft went head-
long against the rock, creaked to the force of the
waters, hut did not break up, and we were enabled
to push the man near enough to the shore to he
seized by his companions : our raft was too long to

THE RAFTS ABANDONED.

141

be mastered by tbe whirlpool: we just saw one man
bolding on to the fellow’s long hair, as we were swept
out of sight.

Our raft had bravely carried us through dangers
that, one after the other, had destroyed its com-
panions, so that at four p.m. I very much re-
gretted finding it stuck firm on a great rapid that
appeared a mile in length. I proposed that we should
encamp opposite, and trust to the night's rain to
enable us to float it over ; but the men said we bad
better push on to the Limbang and build new rafts
there ; so we walked till five, when, catching up our
wrecked companions, we pitched our tents : there was
very little cheerfulness in the party that night. We
had passed through a country of nothing but low
forest, with a few hills scattered about. Our course
was nearly west south-west.

4th. — We had heavy rain during the night, which
made the river rise a fathom ; so that had we stuck
to our raft, we might have advanced in her. The
course of the river continued winding to the west-
south-west, passed the Umur on the right bank.
Had some difficulty in finding a ford : after five hours’
walking, reached the Limbang. I had but a partial
view of the junction ; I thought it only the end of an
island, though a clear view shortly after showed, by
the augmented volume of water, that we were on the
main river : walked forward for an hour and a half,
till we found sufficient light wood to make our rafts:
then pitching our tents, the men set to work preparing
them, and after doing my best to make our tent com-
fortable, I am now inditing this journal. The men

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this afternoon evidently think that matters are looking
a little serious, and have worked away with a will
till dark.

Convinced that bamboos make bad rafts, strong
hut not sufficiently buoyant, they are using only
light woods ; * and remembering the severe blows
they received in the tributary, they are preparing for
worse in the main stream. We are now beginning to
remember the warnings of the Muruts, that you
cannot descend the stream in rafts at any time, and
in boats only in fine weather; and the addition, that
if the rafts fail now, the country is composed of such
steep mountains that it would be impossible to cross
them. I hear these not very cheerful discussions
going on around me ; but the sanguine portion of
my retainers point to the beautiful smooth stream,
whose banks we have followed for several miles.

5th. — There was much rain last night, with thunder
and lightning; and the river rose a fathom, and is
continuing to rise, concealing any signs of rapids in
the long reach before us. The men are determined
that this time the rafts shall be strong enough : ours
is a model, twenty-two feet long by six in breadth,
composed of a double layer of trees, the lower nine
large ones, the upper a dozen smaller trees ; on this
is a raised platform, on which we have stowed our
provisions and goods. We have all got on it to try
its buoyancy, and find that it is not an inch out of
water, but that is immaterial. I have just been
round to look at the different rafts. Though not so
good as ours, they are all tolerably strong ; and the
* The best kinds are Timbaran and Damuan.

DANGERS AND TROUBLES.

143

men having breakfasted, I have given the orders to
put off ; and now, at mid-day, we are starting.

Our course was at first very pleasant. The river
was broad, deep, and sufficiently rapid ; but, after a few
reaches, this changed, and bluff points began to invade
the stream. Now we were hurled against a rock, or
pressed against the bank ; the next moment we were
in a whirlpool, flying about, and with difficulty getting
out of it. These whirlpools were so deep, that with
our longest poles, and they were four fathoms, we
could not reach the bottom. At one very large one,
we continued going in a circle for above ten minutes,
when we saw a companion raft coming down upon
us. We shouted to the men to try and sheer off, but
it was of no use, and it crashed into us ; however,
the damage was all for them. Our heavy raft merely
sank a foot, and was driven near enough to the hank
to enable us to get out of this whirlpool, leaving our
friends to repair damages while taking the successive
turns from which they had driven us. I soon began
to find that our rafts were unmanageable, and that
we must allow the stream to carry us whither it
pleased.

After moving on at a good pace for about a
couple of hours, we heard a roaring in the distance,
and I called to the men to stop the raft if possible,
and send ahead to see what was the cause of this
sound ; but they thought they could pass the rapid
which was before us, and concluded that it produced
the roar we heard. I was of a very different opinion.
This one was bad enough ; but in turning the point,
how shall I describe the scene that was presented to

144

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

me ? The almost perpendicular hills closed in on the
river, their lofty trees meeting in an arch overhead,
and the waters dashing through the narrow space,
tumbling over huge rocks, raised waves like those
of an angry sea on a rocky shore ; but the worst
spot was where the cliffs appeared to have fallen
across the stream, damming it to half its width by
a huge tree-crowned rock, and forming two foaming
cascades.

We had been told that the cataract was nine
fathoms deep. To stop the raft was impossible : the
pace was too great ; and, as we approached this for-
midable danger, the men burst into a prayer, which,
though they shouted at the tops of their voices, could
scarcely be heard in the roar. I spoke not, but
clutched the side of the raft with one hand and
Alitan with the other, for fear we should be swept
off. As we came to the edge of the cataract, it
looked so deep that the men were awed into silence,
and my only thought was, Can we ever rise out of
that abyss ? Down we went. We felt a slight shock,
the raft trembled, and in another moment we were
buried in the recoiling waves. We rose again, our
bows forced up into the air, and the stern completely
hidden as I glanced round to look if the men were
there, and then over the second tier of rocks, which
were not so serious, as there was a deep pool beyond ;
and though we were again buried beneath the waters,
yet we touched no rock. At the first cataract we but
grazed the bottom. Had we struck, our raft must
have been dashed to pieces ; as it was, the centre
trunk was driven from its place — I was about to say,

THE CATARACT.

145

like an arrow from a bow ; but how far it went I can-
not say ; it left no trace behind, it.

I have attempted since to estimate the length of
these falls ; hut, after allowing for the exaggeration
natural to remembrance of one’s own adventures, I
cannot think they were less than three and two
fathoms, hut probably more. However, we passed so
rapidly that it was impossible to judge correctly. On
we went, over a small cataract ; and then the men
gave vent to their feelings in a frantic yell, which
they had been unable to utter after the great danger.
As we cleared the point, we heard shouts from the
hank ; and, looking up, saw four of our men calling
upon us to stop, as there were worse dangers ahead.

As this reach was tolerably smooth, one of the
men sprang into the stream with a long rattan in his
hand, hoping to reach the shore, but it was dragged
from him before he was half way. Then Musa,
choosing a better spot, plunged in ; lie reached the
shore, hut, before he could land, the rattan was
torn from his grasp, and we were swept away. I
saw Musa, breathless, trying to free himself from the
waves that dashed him against the rocks, and in
another moment we were out of sight.

Our two skilled men were gone ; but we managed to
keep the raft straight, and presently we were caught in
a whirlpool. This was our best chance ; one of the
men sprang into the water, and was soon ashore. The
rattan was twisted round a tree just as the stream
caught us. This was a trying moment. The rattan
began to part as the great strain came upon it; so
I ordered the last man to make straight for the shore,

10

VOL. II.

146

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

and draw the raft out of the strength of the stream.
The men really exerted themselves ; and, in almost
less time than it takes me to write this down, we
were moored comfortably under the bank.

Presently one of the other rafts came round the
point ; they tried to join me, but were swept to the
other side, where they brought up ; the next followed,
and was also secured ; the fourth soon came round the
point, but with only old Japer upon it. I trembled
for him, but the old fellow was used to danger, and
cleverly brought himself under the opposite rocks,
and threw a rattan on shore. This, however, was
torn out of the hand of a stupid man who ought to
have twisted it round a stump or a rock ; never-
theless, an active fellow sprang from one of the already
secured rafts into Japer’s, and twisted a strong rattan
round one of the trunks. Now all were interested,
and rushed to help to prevent the great stream carry-
ing away the rafts.

I was very pleased to see Musa join me. He pre-
sently went ahead ; and, after an hour’s absence,
returned, telling me he had found a spot where we
could secure ourselves for the night; but that the men
requested that I and Ahtan, as the non-swimmers,
would walk to the night’s resting-place. We found
the way very difficult ; and, after half an hour’s hard
work, reached the rafts. I now heard that three of
the most active of the party had gone ahead to
examine. We had brought up the rafts in a kind
of bay, with the rocks below stretching across the
river, forming formidable rapids. At six p.m. the
scouts returned, bringing the unpleasant news that

STATE OF PROVISIONS.

147

the river for about two miles was one succession of
rapids ; in fact, as far as they had seen it, it was a
continued sheet of white foam, from the innumerable
rocks which studded the stream. To proceed in the
rafts was quite impossible, so we made up our minds
to walk.

Now I thought matters began to look sombre, par-
ticularly as Ahtan came to tell me that he had been
to several of the men for my rice, and had found that
they had only a day’s provisions left. Upon this I
called the men up, and ascertained that three men had
still six days’ rice, three had four days’, four had two
days’, and the rest only provisions for one day ; and,
what was very serious for me and Ahtan, all our
rice had been consumed, except sufficient for two days.

It was useless to reproach the men, so I called Ahtan
on one side, and proposed to him that we should in
future take thin rice-water, and trust to the cab-
bage-palm for our chief support. To this he readily
agreed, and then added in a whisper that he had
about two cupfuls of tapioca flour. I persuaded him
that this should be kept, in case one of us fell ill.
I must confess that, being excessively hungry, I was
not sorry to find that he had cooked a fowl — the last
but one — and boiled a lot of rice, before he disco-
vered how short we were. We divided the food into
two portions, and dined heartily.

Rocks, sandstone, dipping to the north-east, at an
angle of 18°. It was in the great cataract, to-day,
that my journal was wetted. As we were twice
buried in the recoiling waves, nothing but a single
change escaped being soaked. We made great fires

10—2

148

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

to dry our clothes, but the continuous rain prevented
our completely succeeding.

Qith. — I was up at dawn. There was not much
cooking; hut Ahtan having saved a little cold rice,
we breakfasted off that, and then started. We found
the Muruts were correct in their account of the
country. The walking was very difficult indeed,
either along the sides of precipitous hills or up the
face of them, where our hands came into as much
play as our feet. I kept the men at it till five p.m.,
making but little advance over this very difficult
country. We were evidently crossing the Kalio hills
which I had noticed on our left in our walk from
Madihit, and then estimated at 5,500 feet ; but my
barometer was now out of order.

We encamped on the summit of one of the moun-
tains ; and, having found a little water, we cooked.
I noticed that none of the men followed our example
of sparing the food, but cat as if they had been at
home ; so that but half have any rice left. I had
for a week preserved a small glass of brandy ; and,
believing it impossible to feel more exhausted, I drank
it, for the last climb had been such as to render a
farther advance impossible for any of us.

7th. — To-day the walking was worse than ever — so
steep that my heart almost failed me, but knowing
how everybody looked to me, I did not give way.
How continually those lines came to my memory, and
how often I found myself repeating them —

“ Jog on, jog on tlie footpath way,

And merrily hent the stile-a ;

A merry heart goes all the day,

Your sad tires in a mile-a.”

THE PAYA PAYA IIILLS.

149

We kept on till twelve, when we stopped at a stream
to breakfast on the cabbages of the bengkala palm ;
exceedingly delicious, but not satisfying ; it was like
living on sugar and water. Here the old Pablat man
said be must stay behind, as be bad an attack of
elephantiasis. I left bis son-in-law with him, and
pushed on.

We followed the torrent’s course for some time over
broken rocks, when the man we bad constituted our
guide turned to the left towards a mountain that
looked nearly perpendicular. There was almost a
mutiny ; even Musa declared that they could not
face it — they must try the bank of the river. I
represented to them that the Muruts bad warned
us that it was impossible to follow that course ;
but they kept repeating they would like to try, so
I gave way, and we continued for half an hour,
till we reached the Limbang. Here the banks were
perpendicular, and we all sat down for half an hour,
looking gloomily at the foaming stream.

But this being of no use, I rose and told the guide
that we must go back to the spot he bad before
chosen. The men feeling rather ashamed of them-
selves, got up with more alacrity, and wTe faced the
difficulty, commencing the ascent at twro p.m., but did
not reach the summit till six p.m., and yet we worked
as hard as we possibly could, hoping to get down to
the banks of a running stream. These were evidently
the Paya Paya, or the “ very difficult ” hills. For
several hundred yards we moved up a narrow spur,
about five feet broad generally, but occasionally nar-
rowing to a single foot, so steep that we had to place

150

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

our rifles and guns before us as far as we could reach,
and then pull ourselves up to them.

The sun went down before we stopped for the night.
There was no water, hut there was a prospect of heavy
rain, and strong puffs of wind, as black clouds were
gathering to the north-east. It was seven o’clock
before I got my tent pitched on a ridge not three
feet broad ; and then, there being nothing to eat or
drink, we lay down and slept on our weariness. For-
tunately for me, I had managed to dry my Scotch
plaid during our stay for breakfast ; and, wrapping
myself up in that best of all companions, I did not
feel the cutting winds. I awoke for a few minutes in
the middle of the night, to find that the cold had
driven the men to light a fire ; but before I could
distinctly distinguish any one I was off to sleep again,
and did not wake till the sun shone on my face.
Yesterday satisfied me that I was in excellent con-
dition to endure fatigue, as, though I had not drunk
any water since breakfast, I felt no thirst.

8 tli. — Being excessively hungry, I determined to
have the remaining fowl, a mere chicken, for break-
fast. I thought we deserved it, having had nothing
to eat for dinner, so it was killed before we started.
An hour’s walk brought us to the end of the moun-
tain ridge, and gave us a fine view of the country.
There was Molu with its highest peak bearing west
by south, proving that the western peak, under which
we were last February, is not the loftiest.

It appeared to me that we had clearly passed the
greatest difficulties as regards country ; it was now
more open, the hills drawing back farther from the

FOLLOW THE BANKS OF THE RIVER.

151

banks of the river, which wound at our feet some
three thousand feet below. I now knew from the
bearings that we were north of our boats ; they lay
as nearly as possible between us and Molu. I there-
fore proposed to the men that we should abandon the
the main stream and push due west, straight for the
Madihit ; but they had no faith in compasses, and
seeing a mountain range nearly as high as the one we
were on between us and what I affirmed to be the
Madihit, they said they preferred keeping to the
banks of the Limbang, which now appeared to be less
difficult.

We did not long continue admiring this extensive
prospect ; our thoughts referred to water and some-
thing to eat, so we commenced the descent, which
was nearly as steep as yesterday’s ascent ; but going
down hill, though trying to the knees, docs not take
away the breath. We did not, however, reach a
stream till nearly two, when we stopped for breakfast.
Alitan, smiling at the thought of a fowl, got the
breakfast ready in a very short time. The men pro-
posed that we should spend the night here, but I
declined, insisting that we should reach the Limbang.
It poured with rain, but it was necessary we should
exert ourselves. I pushed on with Ahtan and two
others.

When I was gone, one of the men lay dowrn in
the path and burst out crying, saying he should
never see his mother again ; a companion threw him-
self down too, but the rest of the party followed me.
These two I rather pitied, as this was their second
day without rice ; but they and their two friends were

152

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

the most improvident of the lot. One day they began
to cook without orders ; the rice was just wetted, but
they were told to move on, and not cook till we all
stopped. They therefore wrapped up their breakfast,
and moved on. Presently I sawr a packet, and picking
it up, found that they had thrown away the rice,
saying it was too much trouble to carry it ; another
party, on its being handed to them, quickly appro-
priated it. Another day they cooked three times,
throwing away what was left. It was disgusting to
see such waste of food ; but they suffered for it. At
five p.m. I reached the main stream, and feared I
should have to encamp without tents, as I could hear
nothing of the party. One of the men volunteered
to go back to search for them, and at sunset they
were all collected.

I know of no sounds more curious than those which
arc sometimes heard in the old forest. Last night
we frequently noticed the cries of the Argus pheasant,
both male and female. In the deep silence one is
startled by the thrice-repeated “Tu-wau,” in a clear
and sonorous tone, and that is the crow of the cock.
The cry of the female is similar, but more quickly
repeated ; but both are very pleasing to hear. Occa-
sionally, also, we could distinguish the clear and dis-
tinct note of the Jelatuk bird, which a stranger might
mistake for the echo of a stroke from an axe.

There is another sound, only heard in the oldest
forest, and that is as if a mighty tree were rent in
twain. I often asked the cause, and was assured it
was the camphor tree splitting asunder, on account of
the accumulation of camphor in some particular part

TIIE ARGUS PHEASANTS.

153

— an explanation which was not satisfactory. During
heavy squalls we have often been put in fear hy the
crash of falling timber ; but our men wjerc very parti-
cular in not pitching the tents near half-rotten trees.
The Argus pheasant is found in many places we have
passed during this expedition, and occasionally in the
jungle we have come across open spots strewed with the
feathers of the cock bird, where two have been strug-
gling for mastery. It would appear as if they always
chose the same spots for their fights, as the ground
was free from grass and brushwood, and was beaten
hard.

154

CHAPTER VII.

MY LIMBANCt JOURNAL— Concluded.

Stopped for a Day — Five start for Provisions — The Sick Men left
behind join us — No Shoes — Weakness from want of Food —
Leeches — Stop again — Collect Food — Anecdote of Female
Orang Utan and Murut — Again construct Rafts — Present of a
Cup full of Rice — Start on the Rafts — Abandon them — A
Bear — The River — Immense Pebbly Flats — Long Walks —
Traces of the Advance Party — Wild Fruit — Sour Oranges —
Recognize a Hill — Fruit of the Jintawan, or Indian-rubber
Plant — Find Remains of Bees’ -nest — The British Flag — Reach
the Madihit — Bad Conduct of the Advance Party — Food
nearly all consumed — An unfeeling Father — Proposed Punish-
ment— Ravages of the Bears — Anecdote of Ahtan — Return
in the Boats — The Herd of Wild Cattle — Wound a Bull, but
do not get it — A slight Supper — Start in a Sampir — Ahtan ill
— The last of the Food — News from Brunei — Reach the Town
— Arrival of the rest of the Party — Bornean Travelling —
Measure Distance by Fatigue — Slow Progress necessary —
Active Murut — Average Rate of Advance — Great Mistakes
made in the Estimates of Distance — Instances — Mr. Motley’s
Account of his Advance up the Limbang — Mr. De Crespigny’s
Mistake in the Latitude of the River Damit and Position of
the Mountain of Molu — Remarks on the Map — Causes of the
continued Health of my Followers — The Tents — Mistake in
trusting to Native Huts — Native Geographical Information
tested — Found correct — Arrival of the Orang Kaya Upit —
Tragical Death of Pangeran Mokata, the Shabandar — Two
Years after — Sad Fate of a Party of Adang Muruts — Murder
by Orang Kaya Gomba — Head-hunting — Heads valued, but
none seen — Incident of meeting Head-hunters — No Treacherous
Designs — Inefficient Government — Desecration of the Grave-
yards—Chinese Secret Societies, or Hues — Ahtan joins one —
Robbery of the Iron Chest from the Consulate — The Sultan’s

STOPPED FOR A DAY.

155

Method of extorting a Confession — Obstinacy of Ahtan —
Officers of the Secret Society — Chest restored — Prisoners
released — The Hue broken up — Treatment of Prisoners —
Musa and the Priest — Threats — Personal Regard for some of
my Followers.

9 th. — This morning Musa was very feverish, so
the men asked me to stop a day to collect provisions.
To this I unwillingly assented, but they did little
else than lie down. About nine a.m. five of the men
proposed that I should allow them to leave their
muskets and all their baggage, and push on as fast
as possible to the boats, while I moved on quietly
with the sick and sore-footed. I consented, on the
condition that they would stay at the boats no longer
than would be necessary to cook a meal ; that then
they were to return laden with provisions. To this
they agreed, and then left us. The two who stayed
behind the day before yesterday came up with us ;
it was for them I was anxious. During the ascent
of the steep mountain on the 8th the last remnant of
my shoes was carried away, and yesterday I attempted
to protect my feet by fastening some goats’ skin over
them in the form of mocassins. To-day I am trying
to improve them, but with very little success.

10^/i. — Musa having shaken off his fever, was
enabled to start ; but all the men are weak, and many
are ailing. Though perfectly well in health, I find
that, having only had for yesterday’s dinner a glass
of rice-water with the palm-cabbage, I am not fit for
very long walks, particularly as my mocassins arc
cut to pieces by the rough stones and thorns, and I
am compelled to walk bare-footed. My greatest
torment are the leeches getting between my toes and

156

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

crawling up my trousers, reaching even to my waist,
where the tight belt prevented their farther progress.
Squeezing a little tobacco-juice made them drop off,
hut I could not be continually stopping to do this.

11 til. — We stopped all day. The industrious cut
down some Loba-palms, and made a little sago ; the
lazy collected a few cabbages. I tried a little of the
former ; it was indeed delicious.

Some of the men, who wandered farther than the
others in search of wild fruits, reported seeing some
very large monkeys, which they said might be orang-
utans, and whilst speaking of them I wras reminded
of the various stories told of people being carried off
by them. I have referred to this subject in my
account of my journeys among the Sea Dayaks, but
although many stories are related of the. male orang-
utan earning off young Davak maidens into the
jungle, yet it is seldom that we hear of the female
orang-utan running off with a man. But the Muruts
of Padas tell the following narrative, which, they say,
may be believed. Some years ago, one of their
young men was wandering in the jungle, armed with
a sumpitan, or blowpipe, and a sword. He came to
the banks of a pebbly stream, and being a hot day,
he thought he would have a bathe. He placed his
arms and clothes at the foot of a tree, and then went
into the water. After a time, being sufficiently
refreshed, he wras returning to dress, when he per-
ceived an enormous female orang utan standing
between him and the tree. She advanced towards
him, as he stood paralyzed by surprise, and seizing
him by the arm, compelled him to follow7 her to a

ANECDOTE OF ORANG-UTAN AND MURUT. 157

branching tree and climb up it. When he reached
her resting-place, consisting of boughs and branches
woven into a comfortable nest, she made him enter.
There he remained some months jealously watched
by his strange companion, fed by her on fruits and
the cabbage of the palm, and rarely permitted to
touch the earth with his feet, but compelled to move
from tree to tree. This life continued some time,
till the female orang-utan becoming less watchful
permitted the Murut more liberty. He availed him-
self of it to slip down the trunk of the tree and run
to the place where he had formerly left his weapons.
She, seeing his attempted escape, followed, to be
pierced, as she approached him, by a poisoned arrow.
I was told if I would ascend the Padas river as far as
the man’s village, I might hear the story from his own
lips, as he was still alive.

12 th. — Walked on a mile, the men excessivelv
lazy. Finding the river smooth, they proposed trying-
rafts ; so we stopped to construct them. One of the
men, observing that I was dining on a cabbage-palm
boiled in a little rice-water, presented me with a cup
full of uncooked rice. I was very grateful to him
for it ; hut we put it by, in case the palms should fail
us, as they do in some districts.

13 th. — About nine, we pushed off, and got on very
well for two hours. Found one of the rafts smashed
up against a rock, and the men away walking. Con-
tinued till about one o’clock, when ours also became
fixed on a rock, and our men were too dispirited
to get it off ; and saying that the rapids ahead of us
were dangerous, they proposed walking to-morrow.

158

MY L1MBANG JOURNAL.

We should have thought nothing of such paltry
difficulties a week ago, but the men were losing their
courage with their strength. I refused, however,
to stop till to-morrow, and walked on for a couple
of hours. In crossing a ravine to-day, we disturbed
a female bear, which, however, dashed with her cubs
into thick brushwood, so without dogs it was useless
following her. She roared in a manner worthy of an
animal double her size.

14 th. — The river still full of rapids; but the hills
are gradually receding from the hanks, giving it more
space, and it sometimes spreads out into extensive
sheets of water, with immense pebbly flats. Islands
are also beginning to appear. It was again proposed
to build rafts, but I steadily refused, and kept
walking till nearly five. After sunset, the last
stragglers overtook us. We continually came upon
the traces of the advance-party. At one of their rest-
ing-places, we found the bones of a fine fish, which
by some means they had secured. Our old Pakatan
declared they had either found it stranded, or else
had startled a kite from his prey. It proved to be
the former, though the latter had happened to us
once.

15 th. — Yesterday and to-day the character of the
forest has altered. We are now marching through the
old farming grounds of the Muruts ; found some of
their fruit trees ; among others, one covered with
fine-looking oranges, but intolerably sour. I secured
the opium bottle to-day, intending to take a dose to
deaden the pangs of hunger, but I put it off till the
eyening, thinking it might interfere with my walking.

THE INDIAN-RUBBER PLANT.

159

I noticed near the orange-tree above mentioned that
the whole ground was a mass of water-worn pebbles,
evidently the ancient bed of the stream ; it was now
at least a hundred feet above the water’s edge.

At half-past four p.m. I brought up for the night,
and after bathing stretched myself on my back,
munching a great lump of cabbage, when my eyes,
wandering over the scene, fell on a hill about three
miles ahead of us. I sat up and looked at it again ;
and, turning to my companions, said, “ Why, that
reminds me of the high land near the mouth of the
Madihit;” but we agreed that it was impossible, as
our five men had been gone six days, and we felt
assured that we should have met them ere this if we
were so near our boats as that, particularly as we,
both yesterday and to-day, had made very long walks.
Since we have had a bearing of Molu, we have been
keeping generally in a west course, hut the river has
taken some very extraordinary windings.

Having secured some fruit of the Jintawan, or
Indian-rubber plant, and some cabbages, I was
enabled to satisfy my hunger before going to sleep,
so put off taking any laudanum, to which I had a
very great dislike. The Jintawan fruit is very plea-
santly acid, about the size of a very large pear, and
of a deep orange colour. It consists of a thick rind full
of Indian-rubber, surrounding some pulp-covered seeds.
One of the plants we came across was very handsome,
growing in the most luxuriant manner over a lofty tree
with few branches. The Jintawan is a creeper, and
this one had extended itself at least forty feet up
the trunk and had covered the outspreading boughs.

160

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

It was loaded with fruit, but my men had so lost
heart that not one would climb the tree, but con-
tented themselves with picking up the over-ripe pro-
duce which had fallen on the ground below. We had
another very happy find to-day, for while passing
under a fine tapang-tree, we noticed the remains of a
bees’ nest scattered about, and every particle was
eagerly appropriated. From the marks around it
appeared as if a bear had climbed this lofty tree and
torn down the nest to he devoured by its young below,
as there were numerous tracks of the smaller animals
around, but whether the comb had been sucked by
the bears or not was very immaterial to our men,
who rejoiced in securing the little honey still cling-
ing to it.

16^//. — Started early. About half my followers had
so delayed us by their constantly lagging behind, that
I determined to wait for them no longer, but to push
on with such men as would follow me with all their
strength. We felt that it would be impossible to walk
many days farther on our scanty fare. The lazy
ones having heard of our arrangement, tried to keep
up with us, and did do so till eight, when I heard a
sh mt from the foremost man, “ Bandera ! bandera !
— the flag ! the flag ! ” We rushed down the side of
the hill like madmen, the fellows shouting for joy.
Sure enough, there was the British flag hoisted, and
our small boats at the mouth of the Madihit, with our
five men looking fat and well beside my pale and
famished followers. The rascals having left my guns
and all the baggage in the jungle, and all being in
good health, had managed to reach the Madihit in

FOOD NEARLY ALL CONSUMED.

161

three days, and then set to work to cat and drink as
much as possible.

We arrived to find the provisions nearly gone ;
they said the bears had found out our cache and
destroyed everything, and the only provisions left
were those we put into the garei. I could only
divide a cupful of beans to each man, as the five
had managed to consume thirty pounds of sago and
forty-two pints of beans in the course of four days,
and they confessed to have daily caught very fine fish.
But what angered the men most was the signs of
waste around, where, having only half finished a
plate of sago, they had thrown the rest away. I saw
some picking up the burnt pieces that had not been
washed away by the rain. I asked why, according to
their agreement, they had not come back to meet us,
knowing that we had several sick men. They put the
blame on each other : one man, a Javanese, had left
his sick son with us, but lie unfeelingly observed that
he was old enough to look after himself ; that son
had given us more trouble than any one else, both in
going and returning.

I searched their baskets, and found that they had
not only hidden some more beans, but had stolen
some of my cloth, though I could not fix on the
man. I determined to punish them, so told them
to go back and fetch the things they had left in the
forest ; or, on my return, I would submit the case to
the Sultan, whether they had not forfeited wages by
their unfair abandonment of their sickly companions.
They started off, but their cowardly hearts failed
them, and before night they came back.

VOL. II.

11

162

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

The ravages of the bears were distressing. They
destroyed a Deane’s pistol-case, tore open ray box of
books, and ruined them ; reduced the cloth to shreds,
and tumbled it into the mud, where the white ants
afterwards finished the spoiling ; opened the tin boxes
containing the sugar and biscuits, and of course
devoured them ; so that I have nothing left but coffee
and arrack. After Musa had cooked a meal, a very
frugal one, he went off with a party to fetch the garei,
hoping to find a little sago left, hut was disappointed.

In the evening caught a few fish, but they were not
much among so many. About seven, a most satisfac-
tory savour rose to my nostrils. I found that Alitan,
having discovered a jar of pork fat, was preparing
some cakes. I divided them, hut lie said, “ No ; you,
sir, have the larger body, therefore should have the
larger share.” I am not much given to emotions, but
I never felt so thankful as when, stretched in the old
Kayan hut, I watched them preparing an evening
meal, and thought of all the dangers we had gone
through without a single accident. True, we had
lost guns, and goods, and ruined instruments of some
value ; but what of that ? — there was no one the worse
for his exertions. What was hunger now we were so
near home ?

1 7th. — Started early; and, as we have had no rain
for two days, the river was quiet, and we only reached
an island about fifteen miles from the Madalam. It
shows the difference, however, between ascending and
descending a river. About two a.m., our garei being
wrell ahead, we saw before us a herd of wild cattle,
quietly picking at a few blades of grass on a broad

WILD CATTLE.

163

pebbly flat. I landed with a couple of men, to get
between them and the jungle. I was within twenty
yards of the nearest, a piebald, and was crawling
through the tangled bushes to get a sight of him,
whom I could hear browsing near me, when there
arose a shout, then a rush, and the cattle were off
dashing close to me, but perfectly concealed by the
matted brushwood. It was the crew of one of the
newly-arrived boats that, regardless of the warnings
of their companions, had thus lost us a chance of
a good dinner. I felt that, if my gun had been charged
with shot, I could almost have peppered them. Shortly
after I shot a pig through the back as he was crossing
the river ; but as all my men were Mahomedans, it
was not worth while tracing him in the jungle. He
bled so profusely in the water that he could not have
run far.

About five, we were passing down a rapid at a
great pace, when one of the men touched me and
pointed. I looked up, and there was a magnificent
bull, three parts grown, standing within fifteen yards of
me. To put up my gun and let fly was the work of
a moment; but, before we had dashed on many yards,
the beast, which had fallen on his forehead, was up
and away. After a little time, we managed to stop the
garci ; and, landing, found traces of the beast’s blood.
My feet were so painfully wounded that I could not
manage to follow it, but left it to my men. A couple
came up with him, as he stood with his legs well
stretched out, bleeding profusely. He took no notice
of them, even when they were within spearing dis-
tance ; but all their nerve was gone, and they were

11—2

164

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

afraid to thrust their weapons into him. They waited
till the whole mob of hunters arrived, when the hull
apparently recovering himself, dashed away into the
iungle.

Having secured the boats under the islands, I
divided a tablespoonful of beans each, with a little
pork fat to those who would take it. Musa told me
that most of the men -wanted to stay behind and
follow the wounded Tambadau ; but that, if I wished
to go on, there were five volunteers who would pull
straight to Brunei, now about a hundred miles off
by river. To this I agreed.

18 tli. — I get away at daylight in a sampir with
five men. Ahtan with an attack of fever and ague.
The reaction was too much for him, so I stopped at
an island about five miles from the Madalam to cook.
I now produced my secret store of beans, and the
cupful of rice that I had treasured up since it was
given us on the 12th. The beans I gave to the men,
and the rice I had boiled into a thin sort of gruel for
Ahtan. I thought his feverish symptoms arose
principally from over fatigue and hunger. In fact,
after he had swallowed a strong dose of quinine, and
taken half the gruel, he felt much better ; the rest of
it I gave to the men, as I wanted to give them
sufficient strength to pull to Pengkalan Jawa. I
would not take anything myself, as I did nothing but
sit all day. I reserved my powers for the food I
knew the Chinese trader there would quickly prepare
for us.

As we approached the more frequented parts of
the river, we met some Muruts, who told us that

CLOSE OF MY JOURNAL.

165

the report of my death had brought forty steamers to
the capital to revenge it, and that if I did not turn
up the place was to he burnt. I knew this was
one of the usual stories that arise from very little,
hut still I was anxious to get home ; but with all our
exertions we did not reach the Chinese trader’s house
till 7 p.m. lie received us most hospitably, produced
tea, sugar-candy, biscuit, and dried fish, to stay our
appetites, while a proper meal was prepared. In
about an hour this appeared, and we managed to
consume a very large fowl each, with an amount of
rice that even startled the Baba. Before leaving at
midnight, I made arrangements that a plentiful meal
should he pro's ided for the garci’s crew.

19 tli. — After pulling about fourteen hours, we
reached Brunei by 2 p.m., to find the people beginning
to wonder at our absence. The forty steamers proved
to be Captain Cresswell, of the Surprise , who had
visited the capital about ten days before with Mr.
Low. The latter was beginning to be uneasy about
my absence, and was preparing a party to come and
search for me.

20 th. — My boats now arrived, having failed to
get the Tambadau. They said they followed him by
the blood till midday, when they lost his traces among
those of a herd which he had joined. I suspect they
did not follow him very far.

Thus ends my journal.

As I have now made many journeys in Borneo, and
seen much of forest walking, I think I can speak of it
with something like certainty. I have ever found, in
recording progress, that we can seldom allow more than

166

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

a mile an hour under ordinary circumstances. Some-
times, when extremely difficult or winding', we do not
make half a mile an hour. On certain occasions, when
very hard pressed, I have seen the men manage a
mile and a half ; but, with all our exertions, I have
never yet recorded more than ten miles progress in a
day through thick pathless forests, and that was after
ten hours of hard work. Of course we actually walk
more than we record, as one cannot calculate the
slight windings of the way ; but allowing for all this,
I have the strongest suspicion that Madame Pfeiffer
measured her miles by her fatigue. She talks of
twenty miles a day as a common performance of hers ;
and another visitor to this island beats her, recording
walking thirty miles in one day through Bornean
forests — an utter impossibility.

There was an Adang man among the wax-hunters,
the one who accompanied our guide for a short
distance, who was pointed out to me as a model
of activity, and he certainly appeared so ; well built,
strong, but light, he skimmed the ground ; and the
story is told of him, that on receiving information of
the illness of his child, he started home, leaving
everything behind him but his spear and a little
food, and walked from forty to forty-five miles in two
days. No European that I have ever seen would
have had a chance with him in his own forests.

Six miles a day is quite enough for any man who
wishes to take his followers long journeys, unless
specially favoured by the ground and the paths ;
Galton, in speaking of African travelling, says three
miles a day with waggons, horses, and cattle, and he

MR. MOTLEYS ADVANCE UP THE LIMBANG. 167

is of some authority. I have often thought that we
must have walked twenty miles, hut the hearings have
always proved to me that we have seldom done half
that distance. It requires great experience not to
iudge distance by the fatigue we feel.

Whilst referring to the mistakes in the estimates
of distance, I may notice the very remarkable errors
into which two visitors to the Limbang have fallen.
Mr. Motley* mentions exploring that stream to an
estimated distance of one hundred and fifty miles, by
the windings of the river, and about fifty in a general
south-west direction. He reached the Limhuak
village, which by my measurement is under twenty
miles in a straight line from the mouth : fifty miles
in a direct line to the south-west, would have nearly
brought him to the Baram, across numerous ranges
of hills, and several navigable streams, and a hundred
and fifty miles up the river would have brought him
nearly to the farthest point I reached, long past the
limestone districts. It proves how impossible it is to
trust to estimates.

The next curious mistake I may notice, was made
by Mr. de Crespigny ; he ascended the river Limbang
as far as the river Damit. I have seen a sketch map of
his, and he places the mouth of that stream in north
latitude, 3° 48', and the mountain of Molu to the
north-cast of it, in latitude 4° 3', whereas Molu Peak
is a little to the westward of south from the Damit,
and nearly twenty-five miles distant in a direct line.

In drawing attention to these errors, I by no means
claim immunity from them in the map of the
* Journal of the Indian Archipelago, vol. vi. page 562.

168

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

Limbang and Baram rivers which accompanies this
volume ; hut I think they will be found free from
gross errors. The course of the latter river was
taken down by Captain Brett of the Pluto , and
observations of the latitude and longitude of the town
of Langusan were made by many of the officers on
board. In my land journeys, I had very inferior
compasses, as 1 was unable to take with me the
valuable levels and other instruments obliginglv lent
me by Dr. Coulthard, on account of their weight and
size ; but I used them as long as I was in my boats,
to lay down the position of the mountains ; and in
order to enable me to correct my own errors, I put
down the day’s observations on a rough map every
evening during the journey, except after we had shot
the cascade and wetted the paper too much to permit
it being handled roughly.

I may add, that of the whole party of nineteen,
none after our return suffered severely from the expo-
sure and privations we had undergone, and I believe
the real reason was, that we always were dry at night.
For many years we trusted during our expeditions to
the leaf huts the natives are accustomed to construct
for us and for themselves ; but although with sufficient
time, and when good materials are plentiful, they
manage to make them tolerably watertight, yet they
are never so good as the simple tents we always took
with us during our later expeditions. With proper
ropes and everything fitted to enable us to raise these
tents on cross poles in ten minutes, the two did not
weigh more than twenty pounds, and afforded com-
fortable accommodation for our whole party of nineteen

LEAF HUTS — PRECAUTIONS. 16Q

people, with all our baggage, and on occasions our six
guides took advantage of them also.

I had suffered severely from exposure on former ex-
peditions, particularly when we ascended the Sakarang,
and were eight days sleeping in the leaf huts hastily
erected by our followers. Of the seven Englishmen
who slept on shore, I believe only one escaped without
some severe attack of illness, and I remember the late
Mr. Brereton mentioning that on his return from a
visit to the Bugan country, where his men had been
greatly exposed, a fourth of his party died of various
diseases. Another precaution I took was to carry
myself a few night things, as a light silk jacket, a
pair of loose sleeping drawers of the same material,
a jersey, and a dry towel, so that if my men lagged
far behind, I was not kept for hours in my wet
clothes ; and whilst travelling in these forests you arc
always wet, as if there be no rain there are sure to
he many rivers to ford.

On my return, I tried to remember the geogra-
phical information that was given me before starting.
I was told it would take six days from Blimbing to
Madihit : leaving out the two days’ detention from
freshes, it took us about three hours over the six
days. Even the walking distance was really correct ;
it was only two days from the Adang landing-place,
and seven from Madihit ; as, although we took ten,
yet for the first five days we did not do a fair half-
day’s work on any of them. We were warned that it
would be impossible to use rafts, and that the hanks
were almost impassable, and we indeed found it so.

Many months before starting, I was told that if I

170

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

wished to penetrate far into the interior, to try the
Trusan, and not the Limbang, as the former was
inhabited, the latter not. I went up the Trusan a
few miles, but found it so small, I had no idea it
penetrated to so great a distance. The fact is, that
the rains run off very fast, and that the ordinary
states of the rivers give no idea of the amount of
water they bring down, hut had we taken that route,
we should have reached our farthest point with
comparatively little fatigue.

The orang kaya Upit arrived at his house No-
vember 13th, twenty-five days after I reached Brunei ;
so that it is fortunate I did not wait for him. I mav add,
that on November 20th, some Bisaya chiefs set upon
paiigeran Makota, the shabandar, and killed him.
They were wearied with his exactions. The immediate
cause of his death was seizing the daughters of seven
Orang Kayas, one of whom he had in his curtains
when attacked, and this caused his death. The girl
pointed him out to her father, trying to escape in a
small canoe. The alarm was given, and his boat
tilting over while he tried to avoid the shower of
spears and stones, he fell into the stream and was
drowned ; for he was the only Malay I ever heard of
who could not swim. Such was the end of this
clever bad man. The Sultan was furious, but his
fury wras not shared by his four viziers ; so that the
affair ended by a dozen lives being taken, instead
of the hundreds the Sultan desired.

Brunei , February 8th , 1861. — Above two years
have passed since I wrote this journal. The scheme

MURDER BY ORANG KAYA GOMBA.

171

of building a fort at the Madalam mouth did not suc-
ceed, as the Sultan, after the shabandar’s death, was
very unwilling to assist any of the aborigines. I was
away during the year I860, and in the course of that
time, a party of the Muruts, from the upper Trusan,
came over and encamped at the mouth of the
Salindong stream, and from thence sent on three
men in a bark canoe to tell their friends of their
presence. These men met the orang kaya Gomba,
a Bisayan, at Batang Parak, and were treacherously
slain by him. The Muruts waited a long time at
Salindong, hoping to be fetched away by their friends.
They could not walk the whole distance, as they had
their women and children and all their worldly goods
with them, intending to remove to the lower Limbang,
and live with the orang kaya Upit.

While thus detained, they were surprised by a large
party of Kayans, and every one taken or slain. How-
ever, one of the prisoners afterwards managed to get
away, and reached his friends, bringing this sad tale.
The orang kaya Gomba declares that lie mistook the
three for Kayans, which is almost impossible, as no
head-hunter would have been found paddling down
a hostile stream in a bark canoe. Neither the Sultan
nor any of the viziers will make the least inquiry into
this affair, but the memory of it is treasured up in
the hearts of the Muruts, and orang kaya Gomba
may yet meet with a bloody death.

I have remarked that during all our wanderings
near Kina Balu we only at one place found the dried
heads of enemies hung up in the villages there, and
during my journeys up the Limbang, I do not re-

1/2

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

member noticing any, and yet orang kaya Gomba’s
murderous action shows they do value them, which
is confirmed by pangeran mumin making a present
of the head of the man he killed to the Gadang
Muruts ; and during my stay in Brunei, I have met
small parties of head-hunters, but seeking only the heads
of their real enemies. Yet I have always avoided
spending a night in their immediate neighbourhood,
and have kept our arms ready for instant service.

One evening, during a heavy squall, wTe took shelter
in a little river to the south of Point Kitam, in the
Limbang Bay, and to our exceeding discomfort found
a Murut boat with eighteen armed men in ambush
round a short turn of the stream ; we knew they
were not waiting for us, but having only four men,
and a couple of fowling-pieces, we did not feel secure
in their neighbourhood. As we rowed past them
thev took no notice of us, but no sooner had we
anchored, than they pulled off towards our boat ; but
we should have felt little discomfort, had they not
had their mat coverings stowed away, while all the
Muruts had their arms ready for action. I told my
men to show no sign of alarm, but keeping our guns
within reach, waited their coming.

It w?as a great relief to find that they only came to
ask for a little tobacco, but some of us had been
accustomed to the neighbourhood of the Seribas and
Sakarang Dayaks, who on head-hunting expeditions
spare none, if of a weaker party. We found they
wrere on the look-out for some of the Tabuns, who,
flying before the Kayans, bad established themselves
at Batu Miris, near the entrance of the Limbang

CHINESE SECRET SOCIETIES.

173

river, and with whom they had an ancient feud.
To show the apathy of the Bornean Government, I
may mention that it permitted these skirmishes to
take place close to the capital, and one day some of
my men who were cutting wood near the Consulate,
were startled by seeing two Tabuns rushing franti-
cally past them ; in a few minutes five Trusan Muruts
appeared in full chase, and eagerly inquiring the
direction taken by the fugitives, hurried at full speed
on a false track purposely pointed out by my Manilla
men.

Another fact I may mention is that many Bisaya
labourers who go over to our colony of Labuan to
seek for work have actually attempted to disinter the
bodies of those of our countrymen and women who
have been buried there. They have tried this to the
great grief and discomfort of their surviving friends,
but the Bisayas have generally, if not always, been
disappointed by the great depth of the graves, and
their inefficient tools. It appears a disgusting thing
that there should bo any necessity to watch over the
graves of one’s friends to prevent them being dese-
crated.

I shall have occasion hereafter to mention the
Secret Societies established by the Chinese, hut as an
illustration of the influence the members exercise
over each other, I will tell the following story : —
Perhaps those who have read my journeys to Kina
Balu, and this Limbang journal, may be interested
in the fate of my hoy Ahtan, and I am sorry to say
his conduct ultimately made me lose all interest in
him. In the year 1858 the Chinese in Brunei started

174

MY LIMCANG JOURNAL.

a Secret Society, called there a Hue ; they said they
were a branch of the Tienti, or Heaven and Earth
Society, that has ramifications in nearly all the coun-
tries in which the Chinese have spread. At first hut
few joined it, hut by threats and cajolery they at last
induced nearly all but the head traders to enter it,
and on one of the great Chinese religious feasts,
Ahtan asked my permission to go to it.

When he returned, it appeared to me he had a
very hang-dog look, and next day I noticed he was
very busy about my medicine-chest, and I found my
laudanum bottle on the table. Being very much
engaged at the time preparing my letters for the
mail, I took no particular notice of his movements,
hut immediately after dinner, having taken coffee,
I felt drowsy, and had scarcely entered my mosquito
room, when I fell on the sofa, and remained in a
stupefied sleep for thirteen hours. On my recovery,
Ahtan came with a scared look, and said somebody
had stolen m'y heavy iron chest, and it proved to be the
case, but as I had six dogs, one of whom was a savage
mastiff, my suspicions instantly fell upon my own
people, and passing over my household servants, I
fixed on my boatmen as the culprits.

The Sultan, however, sent and begged I would
leave the matter in his hands, and on my expressing
my willingness, instantly arrested two of my servants,
Ahtan and a Manilla Christian named Peter. They
were separated, and at dead of night the Sultan went
himself with a drawn kris in his hand to the latter,
and said if he would confess he would save his life,
hut if not ; he did not finish the sentence, as

ROBBERY OF MY IRON CHEST.

175

Peter instantly fell on his knees, and clinging to the
Sultan’s feet, begged that his life might be spared
and he would explain all. It appeared that while he
held and quieted the mastiff, Alitan had taken a
blacksmith and a carpenter to the chest, and they
had carried it off. As these men were constantly
employed by me, it explained the silence of the other
dogs ; but though he could tell how the chest was
carried off, he knew nothing of what had since
become of it. The Sultan then left him and went to
Alitan, but no threats or entreaties had the slightest
effect on him, as he had sworn in the most solemn
manner to be faithful to the members of the Tienti
Hue, and would confess nothing. The two accused were
seized, and as they also belonged to the Secret Society,
suspicion was directed to it. I sent for the chief and
the other officers of the Hue, and told them the
whole story, and said, if the chest unbroken, with the
80/. in it, and all the papers, were not placed on the
ground before my house within forty-eight fyours, I
would turn the Sultan’s attention on them. They
protested their utter ignorance of the robbery, which
was probably true, but they well knew how to influence
all their members, and before the forty-eight hours
were over, the chest, untouched, was thrown on the
mud just above my house. Finding after a fortnight
that the prisoners w^cre receiving treatment totally at
variance with English ideas of justice, I sent and
begged the Sultan to pardon them, and turn his
attention to getting rid of the Secret Society from
his dominions. He complied, and it merely required
a warm recommendation on his part to the chief

176

MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.

officers to break up the society, to induce them to do
it, as he declared that every robbery in future should
be laid at their door, and every crime committed
should be avenged on them. As the officers were
men doing a good business at the time, they quickly
got rid of their banners and meeting house, and I
heard no more of the Hue during the rest of the
time I remained in Borneo, but during my last visit
I found the chief officers of the society reduced to
comparative poverty, as their partners and agents in
Singapore, happening to be real British subjects, had
refused to have anything further to do with them
when they knew of their conduct.

I requested the Sultan to let the prisoners go, as
all except Alitan were kept in the stocks in an open
verandah, exposed to sun and rain, and tormented
the whole day by boat boys, who delighted in torturing
those whom they considered as infidels : in Brunei
they have no prisons whatever. Ahtan was better
treated, as he was known to have been a favourite
servant, though his conduct was very bad, particularly
in dosing me with opium, yet I could not forget his
kindness to me during our wanderings in the interior,
and asked for his liberty on that plea. The Sultan’s
answer wTas, — “ The plea is good, but the stubbornness
of that boy in refusing to confess when all the others
had acknowledged their crime, deserves death.” I
heard a few months ago that he was keeping a small
shop in Labuan.

A man in whom I felt a very great interest, and
was very sorry to part with, was Musa, my Manilla
steersman and coxswain ; as a boy he had been

ATTENDING MASS.

177

educated as a Christian, but having been captured
very young and sold by the Balignini pirates to the
Mahomedans, he had been circumcised, and joined
their communion. He had a particular antipathy to
Signor Cuarteron, who returned the dislike, and used
gravely to assure me that my quiet, respectful fol-
lower had a design to massacre him. When the
priests first came to Brunei, all my Manilla men
attended mass, but were suddenly disgusted with
something which took place ; and on my inquiring the
cause, one of them said, “We don’t like to be told
that if we don’t again join the Padre’s religion, he
will send for a Spanish man-of-war to take us all off
prisoners to Manilla.” If he really did threaten
them, he made a great mistake, as some of them never
went near the church again. Musa, though modest
and gentle in his manner, was as brave as a lion, and
would have followed me anywhere. Though very short,
he was squarely built, and exceedingly strong ; a very
powerful swimmer, and good boatman. Many of
these men excite a personal regard, and I have always
felt that for Inchi Mahomed, my Malay writer, who
was entrusted with the charge of the Consulate during
my lengthened absences, and he well deserved the
trust.

vol. ir.

12

178

CHAPTER VIII.

THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.

FIRST VISIT.

Picturesque Islands — Balambangan — An old English Settlement — •
Large Monkeys — Optical Illusions — Flights of Birds — The
Curlew — The way we shot them in Sarawak — Game — Ban-
guey — Mali Wali — Cleared Hills — Fine Water — Sweet-smelling
Jasmine — Cagayan Sulu — Intercourse with the Inhabitants —
Appearance of the Country — Lovely Scenery — Market —
Inhabitants — Insolent Traders — The Crater Harbour — Wall of
Evergreen — Inner Lake — Climb the Cliff — Scenery — Alliga-
tors numerous — Sulu — Appearance from the Ship — Sugh, the
Capital — Mr. Wyndham — The Watering-place — Suspicious
Natives — Fugitives from Balignini — Reports — A Market — The
Mountaineers civil — Walk to the Palace — The Stockades —
Armed Crowd — Audience Hall — Absurd Reports — The Sultan
and his Nobles — Dress — Politeness of the Sultan — Return to
the Ship — Datu Daniel — The Racecourse — Effect of Dutch
Shot — Tulyan Bay — Alarm of Villagers — Sulu Government —
Laws — Feuds — The Mahomedan and the Pork — Population —
Fighting-men — Slave Market — Dignified carriage of the Nobles
— Dress — The Balignini — Dutch Attack — Appearance of the
Country — Good Position of Island — Tulyan — Basilan — Nume-
rous Islets — Samboangan — Spanish Convict Settlement —
Description of Country — Fort — Town — Shops — The Church
— The Men — The Women — The Corner Shop — A Ball —
Dancing difficult — Waltzes — Supplies at Samboangan — A
lonely Grave.

During all the voyages I have made, I have never
beheld islands so picturesque as those scattered over
the surface of the Sulu Seas, or whose inhabitants
more merited notice. I will therefore give a short

PICTURESQUE ISLANDS.

179

account of the visits I made thither, before the attacks
of the Spanish forces had altered the ancient state of
affairs. I have already delineated the north-west
coast, and will therefore commence my description
from the island of Balambahgan, to the north of
Maludu Bay, which must always be of some interest
to Englishmen from our two unsuccessful attempts
to form a settlement there.

We dropped anchor off Balambahgan, which at
night appears a low wooded island. I visited it in
the morning in a cutter, and vainly sought any fresh
traces of human beings, though we found some old
deserted huts of the fishermen who frequent this
shore for tripang. Continuing our explorations, we
noticed something moving along the beach, and there
were various conjectures among our party, some
affirming it to he a buffalo, others a man ; I never
was more deceived in my own estimate of the size
of an animal, as it proved to be a large monkey,
which with its companions was seeking shell-fish on
the sands ; it was certainly very large, but not of
such dimensions as to warrant its being compared to
a bull, but there appeared to be some optical illusion
caused by its looming over the water.

Pursuing our path along the beach, the seamen
at last thought they saw houses among the trees, but
on landing we found we were again deceived by a row
of white rocks, prettily overhung with creepers.
Though no traces of inhabitants were to be found,
yet animal life was well represented, innumerable
monkeys swarmed at the edge of the jungle, while
flights of birds of every kind kept rising before us.

12—2

180 TIIE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

I never saw more monstrous pelicans, but after having
been so deceived by the monkeys, I must not attempt
to estimate their height. The best birds, however,
for culinary purposes, were the curlews, some of which
are as large as small fowls : unfortunately we were
not provided with shot, and ball fell harmlessly
among them.

They are wary birds, but may yet be readily circum-
vented. There is a spot at the entrance of one of
the minor branches of the Sarawak river, where the
curlews congregate in thousands, but only at the
height of spring-tides can you get profitable shots at
them. There are broad sands there, and the birds
spread over them to feed ; by degrees the rising
waters gradually press them back towards the wooded
shore ; and as beach after beach is covered, they fly
screaming above in wide circles, gradually narrowing
till they all settle on the spot near which the sports-
men lie concealed, either behind scattered bushes, or
in a prepared bower of leafy branches. The evening has
well closed in before the tip-top of high-water ; and the
loud scream of the myriads of birds deadens the detona-
tion of the guns as they send their iron shower among
them, enabling us to load and reload without com-
pletely scaring the birds. We once obtained ninety-
five of the largest kind, and hundreds of smaller ones,
to feast the crowd who were assembled near prepara-
tory to a great tuba-fishing.

Balambangan is admirably situated to command
the China seas ; however, if its position be superior to
Labuan, the latter has coal to counterbalance that
advantage. While strolling along the beach we came

MALI WALI.

181

upon the tracks of cattle, deer, and pigs, and another
party from the ship had the good fortune to secure a
large supply of excellent fish with the seine. This
island, as well as the neighbouring coast of the main-
land, appears to swarm with game ; I landed on the
latter, and found an extensive open plain, diversified
with a few low eminences, backed by some cleared
hills, and there the tracks of wild cattle, deer, and
pigs were innumerable. The rhinoceros is also re-
ported to be occasionally seen, but we came across no
traces of it.

Continuing our voyage, we passed the island of
Banguey, in the northern part of which there are
fine peaked hills, with inhabitants, and plenty of good
water, therefore far preferable to Balambangan for a
settlement ; as if the harbours be not good, there is
sufficient shelter against both monsoons.

The next island is Mali Wali, and here we anchored
to examine it. We tried at many places, but found the
little creeks shallow and lined with mangrove swamps ;
but by landing on the south side, at the east end of the
stone beach, there is hut a few minutes’ walk in dry
forest between the shore and the cleared land. The
appearance of the island is remarkable ; for miles the
hills apparently are clothed with grass, with only a
narrow belt of jungle skirting the shingly beach ;
the reality, however, disappointed us, as we found
that this verdant-looking land was but a heap of
soft sandstone, with long coarse grass growing up
between the crevices. However, there is a good
supply of clear water from tiny streams and springs,
and the tracks of deer were observed in many places,

182 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

while on all sides a species of wild jasmine grew in
luxuriance, bearing a very sweet-scented flower.

This island did not tempt us to stay long, so we
steered for Cagayan Sulu, which is a gem in the
ocean ; it has three peaks, wooded, but varied by
grassy glades, groves of cocoa-nuts and fruit-trees,
partly concealing and partly revealing scattered
houses and villages. It is, indeed, a picturesque
island from every view. Our first intercourse

appeared likely to be unfriendly. Steering round
to the south-west side, we landed at a place where
we saw some houses close to the beach, and as we
pulled ashore, we could see the inhabitants gathering
in armed groups ; however, we were received with
great civility, and explained the object of our visit,
which was to inquire what fresh provisions could be
procured there. We did not stay long, as they pro-
mised to bring us down next day a good supply.

When we landed on the following morning, we
found a very large party assembled with several
fine bullocks for sale ; while the bargaining was going-
on I wandered inland with a companion to have a
look at the country. Wherever we went we found
plantations of cocoa-nuts and plantains, and round the
houses were small vegetable gardens, while between
the dwellings were occasionally extensive tracks of
long coarse grass, on which were herds of bullocks
feeding.

At length we came to a spot which tempted us to
rest. It was a rock overhanging a tiny bay, thrown
into deep shade by the tall graceful palms which bent
over it ; while looking inland across the gently sloping

INSOLENT TRADERS.

183

fields of long high grass interspersed with groves, we
could see parties of natives marching in Indian file,
with their bright spear-heads flashing in the sun,
winding their way down to the extemporized market.
We sat under the shade of some areca palms ; which,
though young, and not twenty feet in height, were yet
covered with fruit and freshly expanded blossoms,
which shed a delicious perfume through the whole
grove.

Our bargaining prospered, as fine cattle were
secured at thirty shillings a piece, ducks for two wine
bottles, fine cocks and hens for one ; as well as a
couple of pretty ponies, cocoa-nut oil and nuts, plan-
tains, limes, ginger, onions, and fruits. This island,
though formerly a dependency of Sulu, is now inde-
pendent, and is governed by some of those half-bred
Arabs who corrupt and weigh heavily on these coun-
tries. It is finely situated in the Sulu seas, and it is
both healthy and fertile. The inhabitants appear
much the same as those I had seen about Maludu
Bay, and, with the exception of some strangers,
were civil. The latter were traders who had visited
Samboangan, Manilla, and other Spanish ports, and
were there corrupted, by intercourse with the low
Europeans and dissipated classes who usually fre-
quent such places ; and at one time these men were so
insolent that I thought their conduct would become
unbearable, till they were quieted by my shooting
down a cocoa-nut, as mentioned in my Limbang
journal.

The most singular spot in this island is near
the old crater-looking harbour, mentioned b.y Sir

184 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

Edward Belcher, which we entered over a reef. It
is almost circular, and is surrounded by lofty rocks
clothed with trees, bushes, and hanging creepers,
presenting a magnificent wall of evergreen. Bowing to
the west side of the bay, and climbing to the top of a
lofty bank, we had a splendid view of a remarkable^
almost circular, lake. The place where we stood was
a gap between the lofty cliffs that rose on either hand,
and appeared to have been formed by the inner waters
bursting their boundary, and overthrowing the upper
defences of this natural dam. The wooded cliffs
continue all round, forming a perfect barrier, now
rising to a great height, then sinking to some fifty or
sixty feet. The waters, elevated more than forty feet
above the sea, lay in undisturbed repose, and presented
for upwards of half a mile a clear mirror, reflecting
back the rays of the sun and the deep shadow of
the tall trees.

I mounted with some difficulty the top of the
left-hand cliff, and had an extensive view through
the tangled bushes. On one side were the waters
of the crater, on the other the serene lake with the
sea appearing beyond. We heard from the natives
that alligators swarm in this secluded water, so that
fish must be plentiful also, as few pigs could descend
here. In the interior they say there is another more
extensive lake of the same formation ; this one wTas
found to be eight fathoms deep at the edges, and
forty in the centre.

Started from Cagayan Sulu, and after encounter-
ing rougher weather than we expected to find in this
usually calm sea, lay to, as we thought we were

MR. WYNDHAM’S RESIDENCE.

185

not far from the island we were intending to
visit.

At daylight the two peaks of Sulu were visible ;
and as we approached, the summits of the other hills
appeared, while all the rest of the island lay enveloped
in mist ; but the sun soon dispelled this, and showed us
the west coast of the lovely island of Sulu. The
slopes of the hills presented alternate patches of
cleared grassy land, with clumps of trees scattered
over its face, reminding one of a noble English park ;
while a long dense line of cocoa-nut palms skirted the
beach, among which were seen many houses and
groups of inhabitants, who were no doubt watching
our approach with much anxiety, as they had already
suffered from the attacks of the Dutch and Spaniards ;
but the sight of the English flag no doubt restored
their confidence.

Anchored off Sugh, the capital of Sulu, which is
situated at the bottom of a bay, and appears small ;
but among the existing dwellings we could distinguish
blackened piles, the remains of portions of the city
burnt by the Dutch. On the right of the town is a
high hill, curiously peaked and well wooded. Farther
off to the left, and at the back, are many high moun-
tains, some peaked, others rounded ; but, as a whole,
forming a beautiful view. A white flag, with a
castle represented on it, waved over the fort, and a
pilot jack marked the residence of Mr. Wyndham,
an Englishman, settled here for the purposes of
trade.

Very few natives came off, until at length a mes-
senger arrived from the sultan to know who we were ;

186 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO FIRST VISIT.

we returned a suitable and, no doubt, a satisfactory
reply, as the Sulus were in a state of great excite-
ment, having suffered considerably from the recent
shots of the Dutch ships. Having communicated
with Mr. Wyndham, we went to see the watering-
place about a mile to the west of the town, situated
near the great tree to which I have alluded in mv
second account of Kina Balu, where we found the
water bursting out of the sand, clear as crystal, and
pleasant to the taste.

The tree is very fine, being at least thirteen feet in
diameter, with a very sinewy stem. Mr. Wyndham
walked with us a little way into the country, and
showed us some of the houses, having much the same
appearance as those of the Malays. These people
are better-looking than most other inhabitants of the
archipelago ; but appeared to be suspicious, watching
us at every point ; in fact, we afterwards heard the
fugitives from Balignini were scattered among them,
and they had had no time to forget what they
had suffered from the well-deserved attacks of the
Spaniards. We then pulled to Mr. Wyndham’s
house, a mere rough building, raised near the site
of his former one, burnt by the Dutch — why or
wherefore is inconceivable. The whole night after
our arrival the country was in an uproar, reports
spreading of the advent of innumerable ships, which
made the inhabitants hurry their women, children,
and goods up to the mountain. In the evening we
took a friendly letter to the sultan.

28th. — Went with the watering-party, but were
unable to penetrate far, on account of heavy rain and

VISIT TO THE SULTAN.

187

the incivility of the natives, who waved us hack. No
answer, as yet, from the sultan.

2>Oth. — Landed at the watering-place, where the
mountaineers were assembled at a sort of market,
bartering, buying, and selling. We walked about a
little, and then returned to the beach, where we
were surrounded by some scores of men, women, and
children from the mountains and neighbourhood ; the
former are said to be of a different race, but we saw
little signs of it. The women, on the whole, arc
better-looking than the Malays, and some of the
little girls were quite pretty ; they arc civil enough,
but anxious to know our business.

In the afternoon we went to an audience with the
sultan. Having landed at Mr. Wyndham’s, who led
us by a long shaky platform to the shore, where we
found numbers of armed natives assembled, an officer
from the sultan led the way along a broad rough road
with a high stockade on the left, and houses on the
right. We passed in, through ever-increasing crowds,
to a market-place, where the women were selling fowls,
fish, and vegetables, till we came to a creek, over
which a rude bridge took us to the palace. Before
crossing, we observed a large brass 24-pounder show-
ing through an embrasure. The stockade continued
on the left, until we passed a large gate, where on a
green were assembled some hundreds of men, armed
with muskets, spears, heavy Lanun swords, and krises,
and defended by shields, and some brass armour, and
old Spanisli-looking helmets.

The audience hall was on the right, and the house
of prayer on the left. The crowd opening, we mounted

188

TIIE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

some steps, and crossing a verandah thronged with
armed men, found ourselves in the presence of the
sultan. The audience hall is large, but perfectly
hare of ornament, as all their valuable silks and
hangings were packed up, and mostly sent to the
hills, on account of an absurd report spread by the
mate of the Spanish brig we found anchored near,
which, when we came in sight, began to get under
weigh, and stand out to sea.

On being questioned by the Chinese passengers, he
said that we had given him notice to get out of the
way, as we were about to bombard the town. The
rumour having spread, the natives packed up their
valuables, and spent the night in carrying their goods
off to the hills, and in removing their women and
children. This caused the suspicious behaviour of
the people, and what tends to keep up their appre-
hensions a little is that the Spanish brig has not yet
returned to her proper anchorage.

But to return to the hall. In the centre stood a
round table ; on the opposite side sat the sultan sur-
rounded by his datus, and around were a number of
empty chairs, on which we took our seats. After
shaking hands, a few questions were asked, as,
“ What was the news? Was France quiet?” The
sultan was very like the picture in Sir Edward
Belcher’s hook, and was dressed in light-flowered
silk, with a very broad gold belt round his waist, a
handsome kris, and gold bracelets, sparkling with
jewels. Some of the datus were splendidly dressed
in silks, gold brocades, handsome turbans and head-
dresses, like golden tiaras; the young men were, as

TULYAN BAY.

189

usual, the most gaudily decorated, while the old were
in plain white jackets, and crowds of the better class
sat behind and around us.

Observing that Sir James Brooke, who had lately
suffered much from fever, looked hot and tired, the
sultan politely broke up the audience, and we returned
by the same path we came, and after sitting a short
time with Mr. Wyndham, went on board to dine with
Captain Keppel, where our Sulu acquaintance amused
us with stories about the natives.

Went on shore to Mr. Wyndham’s to meet datu
Daniel ; very little conversation passed. He appears
to be a quiet, good-natured man ; his brothers are
very fine fellows, and very fair ; with them we went to
see the race-course. Passing through a portion of
the town, we came to an open grassy field, where a
few men were trying their horses by trotting them
over the sward. None of the chiefs being present,
there were no trials of speed.

2 nil. — On shore early with our guide, but the
people not appearing to like our penetrating into the
country, we returned to Mr. Wyndham’s house, and
as we passed the stockades, the Sulus laughingly
pointed to some indentations in the wood where the
shot from the Dutch ships had struck, but had done
little damage.

3rd. — Weighed anchor and stood along the coast
for Tulyan Bay ; but wind and tide being against
us, we let go our anchor ; sailing again at three, we
found ourselves towards seven in Tulyan Bay, much
to the discomfort of the villagers, whose shouts and
screams could be distinctly heard on board. At last

190 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

a couple of men came off and returned on shore after
a few reassuring words from Mr. Wyndham, which
appeared sufficient to pacify the inhabitants, as the
noises ceased. Tulyan Bay is rather deep, and
appears to be well protected, and takes its name
from a pretty-looking island in the offing, which was
ceded to the English in Dalrymple’s time — in fact,
the inhabitants thought we were come to take posses-
sion.

4 th. — I must now endeavour to give the little in-
formation I collected concerning Sulu. The govern-
ment is carried on by a sultan, with his council of
datus ; at the present time the principal power is held
by datu Molok, an elder but illegitimate brother of
the sultan — a slirewd-looking man with quick, inquir-
ing eyes. The sultan is said to be well-intentioned ;
but, being weak in character, is totally unable to subdue
the turbulent aristocracy by whom he is surrounded.
In despair he is reported to give way to his fondness
for opium-smoking.

The laws are but little respected, and ancient
customs are fast falling into disuse, particularly one
resembling a voluntary poor-rate. Every Sulu trader
used to present five per cent, of his yearly profits to a
fund, which was divided among the poor of the island.
The mountaineers acknowledge the supremacy of the
sultan, but refuse to pay tribute, and a government
which cannot enforce that is not likely to be able to
suppress feuds, or effectually to put down disturbances.
Mr. Wyndham pointed out a man who was notorious
as a murderer, and one instance he had himself wit-
nessed of his bloodthirstiness.

THE MAHOMEDAN AND THE PORK.

191

Again, two mountaineers, bargaining for a slice of
fish, quarrelled ; they mutually seized each other’s
weapons ; one held the handle of his opponent’s kris,
the other his spear shaft ; they struggled, a fight
ensued, the crowd collected, some took one side, some
the other, and in a few minutes seven men lay gasping
on the ground. It is not to be expected that the
dependencies of the island will obey, when all is in
such confusion. The sultan’s power is very limited,
though the datus still send parties to raise contributions
from the neighbouring towns, villages, and islands.
In all decaying states we find religion neglected, and
here, I imagine, it is held hut in slight respect ; their
houses of prayer being like a tumble-down barn, and
the inhabitants indulging in the use of wine, and
occasionally pork.

Mr. Wyndham told us an amusing story of an old
datu, who, going on business to a Chinese trader,
began to find a delicious odour insinuatingly creeping
over his senses.

“ Ah,” said he, “ what is this ? some cooking, what
is it?”

“Pork.”

“ Pork ?” said he ; “ ah !”

“Would you like to taste some?”

“ Why,” he answered in a low voice, but cautiously
surveying the room to see if he were watched, “ yes,
bring me a little.”

On tasting it, and finding it very good, he began to
eat some more. Mr. Wyndham living next door, and
hearing the old fellow’s noise, had removed some of
the partition, and was watching him. He now coughed.

192 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO— FIRST VISIT.

“ Oh, I am ruined,” cried the datu ; “ who lives in
the next house ? ”

“ Signor Wyndham.”

“ Then he has me in his power.”

Our informant then went in, and, laughing, shook
the Mahomedan chief by the hand, and congratulated
him on his freedom from prejudice. He ever after had
much influence with the old man, who feared being
exposed. The inland inhabitants call themselves
Islamites, but are very lax and ignorant.

The Sulu language is soft ; it contains, I believe,
many Malay words and expressions, but it is essen-
tially different ; though the upper classes understand
Malay, and also many of the lower, there being here
numerous slaves from Borneo. The population, they
say, is 200,000 ; it is probably 100,000 ; not less, from
the numerous towns and villages along the coast, and
the number of houses detached in twos and threes.
On an extraordinary occasion, they say they could
bring some 15,000 or 20,000 men into the field ;
but, in general, 5,000 would be as many as they
could assemble. In fact, when the day of trouble
came, they had not, perhaps, 2,000 to defend the
town ; and this may be readily accounted for, as a
large proportion of the population is in servitude,
which is, however, generally an easy state of existence.

The slaves are collected from all parts of the archi-
pelago, from Acheen Head to New Guinea, and from
the south of Siam to the most northern parts of the
Philippines : it is a regular slave market. The Sulus
themselves are a better-looking people than any I
have yet seen; they are daring and independent,

TIIE BALIGNINI.

193

and the mountaineers, particularly, are a wild but
polite people. Their young women and little girls
are dark-eyed and good-featured, with easy figures ;
free, though not obtrusive, in their ways.

Bold and daring as the datus appear, they have
much politeness in their manners, particularly datu
Daniel and his brother ; and on proper occasions
their carriage is dignified and commanding. The
lower orders are outwardly rough, violent, and fierce,
yet have an inherent politeness, which, when inclined
to show confidence, they display to much advantage.
On state occasions the young men appear in splendid
dresses, while the elder content themselves with plain
clothes. The dress is the same as the rest of the
archipelago — a jacket, trousers, sarong, and occa-
sionally a shirt or under-vest. They all wear krises,
and most of them also carry either muskets or spears.

The Balignini near the watering-places were the
worst we met — insolent and inclined to pilfer ;
indeed, there was nearly a quarrel about some of the
seamen’s clothes they tried to appropriate. To show
their dislike, they planted sharp fish-bones round the
watering-place, in the hope that our men, landing in
the dark, might cut their feet. The Dutch burnt
about two hundred houses, but did little injury to
the stockades, which are, however, sadly out of repair.
In proper order, well mounted with guns, they could
make a good defence, as the walls facing the sea
are about fifteen feet thick of mud and stone,
encased .with teak stockades. The rampart around
the sultan’s palace is in the best repair, but not so
thick as the others ; and datu Daniel’s is by no means

13

VOL. II.

194 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

contemptible. The men, too, would fight bravely, as
they did against the Dutch ; but their guns, except
the brass ones, are mostly dismounted, and they have
no carriages ready ; the iron ones are said to be
those taken at Balambangan, when they surprised and
captured our settlement.

The appearance of the country from the sea is very
beautiful, many of the hills rising to a peak some
2,000 feet above the level of the sea; while others
are lower and wooded, and form an agreeable con-
trast. Several of these eminences are forest-covered
to the summit, while many present alternate patches
of rice cultivation, pasture land, groves of cocoa-nut,
palms, gardens, and detached clumps of forest trees.
It is by far the most beautiful island I have seen.
Sulu, in good hands, might be made, to produce
every tropical production, and become the centre of
the commerce in these seas. Ships, by staying a
little time, may obtain bullocks, fowls, ducks, vege-
tables, fruits, cocoa-nuts, and very fine water at a
very good watering-place. The duties on goods are
high ; nevertheless, Mr. Wyndham and the Spaniards
carry on a profitable commerce.

Tulyan is rather a small island, with hills to the
north, but low land on the south : the former with a
few trees and some bananas, with cocoa-nut palms at
the foot ; the latter a little woody. Dalrymple gives
some account of it. In his time the Spaniards had
driven the natives away, burnt their houses, and
cut down their fruit-trees ; but there is now a large
village along the beach, with many cocoa-nut groves.
The inhabitants are pearl fishers.

SAMBOANGAN.

195

Next day anchored off two woody islets ; the cap-
tain, as usual, shelling and dredging. Islands are to
be seen in the distance all around us.

6/A. — Anchored off Basilan. High hills and low-
lands covered with woods, showing but few clearings.
We counted eighteen islands at one time ; among
which were the late pirate haunts of Balignini and
Tonquil. Beat about, and anchored off Samboahgan
after dark.

We remained seven days at Samboahgan, walking
and exploring in every direction, and enjoyed our stay
there very much. Magindanau, as far as we have
seen it, is very hilly and woody, with the exception of
the neighbourhood of the Spanish settlement of Sam-
boahgan, which has been cleared for some miles ;
though, for an old colony, not so much as might have
been expected.

The town is situated on the west point of Lanun
Bay, and from the sea appears much smaller than it
is in reality. It presents no very striking features ;
the long, low, dark fort and whitewashed houses, in-
termixed with a few groves of cocoa-nuts, with forest
on either side, and the hills, some cleared and some
wooded, rising about seven miles inland, suggest a
rough idea of this pleasant little town. The plain
around is very well cultivated ; as you walk along the
roads — very much like English country ones — you
have a continual series of large rice fields, cocoa-nut
groves, now swelling into extensive plantations,
then a few round a detached cottage, and inter-
mixed with these are great quantities of bananas.
Many small streams intersect the plain, adding

13—2

196 TI1E SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

much to its fertility, and are spanned by covered
bridges.

The fort is to the right of the town, and has rather
low walls, mounted with a good many guns ; against a
native force it must be impregnable, hut a little shelling
would soon subdue it. It is garrisoned by about two
hundred and fifty native soldiers. Leaving its gate,
you cross a large green, beyond which lies the prin-
cipal portion of the town, laid out in a rectangular
shape, with streets intersecting each other at equal
distances. The houses are in general mere native
ones ; others a little superior ; and perhaps a couple
of dozen of a better class, in which reside the Gover-
nor, Lieutenant-Governor, Commandant, and other
officers. Almost every other house has a shop, in
which cigars, spirits, chocolate, sugar, and various
other articles are sold. The most respectable class
keep retail shops, as well as the little traders.

Beyond this portion of the town is a little green,
with the church — a long barn-like building. Seen
within by the imperfect light of evening, it appeared
destitute of ornaments, except round the altar, and
beyond this are some more streets. The houses
I entered had very little furniture ; a small table,
some chairs, a bedstead, and a kind of drawers, with
a few shelves, complete the whole.

The people themselves are well worthy of notice.
They are a mixture of Spaniards and natives ; a few
of pure blood, in the Government offices ; the rest
half-castes, mestichcs, and natives. The men ex-
hibit no remarkable features, except the Governor,
Colonel Cayelano de Feguaroa, who was an agreeable

THE CORNER SHOP.

197

man, and spoke French. We were much pleased
with his liberal ideas and gentlemanly manners, and
the other officers were equally polite and attentive.
The generality of the native men are kind and civil,
but with fat, unmeaning faces. The women are much
better. The Lieutenant-Governor’s wife, the only
pure Castilian in the place, was a very pretty woman,
with fine eyes and regular features. The mestichcs
have in general good eyes and dark hair ; hut, with
the exception of a few, their faces are too broad.

There was a famous corner shop opposite the church,
which contained good specimens of the race : —
Gabriella, likewise called llomantica, one of the hand-
somest women in the town, with pleasing features,
and her sister, with the usual flat face. Every one
visiting Samboafigan made that shop their place of
call, as the staid old mother and the girls were very
civil and hospitable.

In the country one could always obtain cocoa-nuts,
and many of us were invited in to eat fruit and drink
chocolate and gin by the obliging residents, whose
pretty houses, embowered in fruit-trees, were an orna-
ment to the road side.

The officers of the Meander gave a ball. The
quarter-deck was cleared of guns and surrounded with
flags on all sides, and ornamented with green boughs.
All the Spanish officers came, and about fifty of the
townswomen, some young, others old. We danced
quadrilles, waltzes, and polkas : the first caused
much confusion, the second was well danced, while the
third was quite new to most of them. The com-
mandant gave one in return, which was kept up with

198 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO — FIRST VISIT.

greater spirit. Many of the girls were fairer and
better-looking than those we saw on board, and a few
were in European costumes, with shoes and stockings,
while the rest had Malay petticoats, and little jackets
with scarfs. Dancing the polka with them was found
to be very difficult, as, few having chemises on, the
hand constantly coming in contact with the skin,
it was impossible to obtain a hold ; and their little
slippers were flying in every direction.

Their own band played waltzes very well by ear ;
but nothing else. Indeed, it is almost the only dance
they care for, as the girls find it difficult to try any
other, on account of their wearing slippers without
heels, some of which are very prettily ornamented
with gold and silver embroidery.

Supplies were scarce, though I saw a great many
oxen and cows, some goats, fowls, and ducks ; but its
being a penal settlement, trade is obstructed and care-
fully watched to prevent the escape of convicts, and
none could come to the ship without a pass. The
ponies are very good, except the hacks ; the water
buffaloes are large, and employed to draw a peculiar
sledge along the smooth roads. The chief amusement
of the men on Sundays is cock-fighting: crowds
assemble to witness this cruel sport ; and then they
show some money, which at other times appears so
scarce that few shops could give change for a dollar.
We observed that the rice was trodden out by the
buffaloes, on hard beaten ground. Washing was dear,
being eleven dollars a hundred.

16^/i. — Started on our return voyage. Lay-to off
a sand-bank not marked in the chart. A grave was

A LONELY GRAVE.

199

found there with four bamboos stuck round, one at
each corner, in the midst of thousands of birds, with
immense numbers of eggs, some of which were brought
off, and proved good eating. I will omit the ground
we went over on our return, and give an account
of a second visit we paid this archipelago.

200

CHAPTER IX.

THE SULU ISLANDS.

SECOND VISIT.

Reach Sugli — Mr. Wyndham comes on board — His News — Com-
mercial Rivalry — The Stockades — Visit the Audience Hall —
Appearance of the Sultan — Visit Datu Daniel's Stockaded
House — Guns — Datu Daniel — Appearance of the principal
Chamber — The Bed — Boxes — Property — General look of Dis-
comfort— Spittoons — Dismounted Iron Guns — Taken from the
English — Excitement in the Town — Hereditary Hatred of the
Sulus to the Spaniards — Their Treaty with Spain — Sandakan
Bay — Supplies — Variegated Wood — Salute — English popular
— An Exception — Death of a Sulu Lady from Grief — The
Rumali Bechara — A Ship taken — Interview with the Sultan —
Rope — Character of Datus — The Balignini — Capture an Eng-
lish Ship — Captives brought to Sulu — Result of the Action of
the Nemesis — The Lanuns — At Magindanau and Cape
Unsang — A narrow Escape — Mate to Lord Cochrane* — Capture
of the Maria Frederica — Cold-blooded Murder of the Captain
— Jilolo Prahus — Their Rencontre with Sir Edward Belcher —
Pirates off the Arru Group — Sulu Justice — Appearance of the.
People — Attack on the Spanish Gunboats — Public Audience
with the Sultan — Private Visit to the House of his Bride —
The Women — Opium-smoking — Invitation to revisit Sulu —
The Spanish Gunboats — Samboangan— The Corner Shop —
Sunday’s Amusements — Appearance of the Neighbourhood —
A Breakfast in the Country — Long Walks — People comfort-
able— Story of the Loss and Re-capture of the Dolphin — The
Dolphin sails for Maludu Bay — Quarrels — Surprised — Death
of Mr. Burns and the Captain — Murder of a Woman — Injury
to Trade — Datu Badrudin’s Monopolies — The Tungku Pirates
— Visit the chief Town of Maludu — Sherif Husin’s Account
of the Surprise of the Dolphin — The Re-capture of the Vessel
by Sherif Yasin — Arrival at Benggaya — Dolphin delivered up
— Visit the Village of Sherif Yasin — His Appearance — His

MR. WYNDHAm’s NEWS.

201

Account of the Re-capture — His Position — Smoking over
Powder — Delivery of the Cargo — Return to the Ship — Argus
Pheasants — Meet with Baju Boats — Pearl Fishers — Retaliation
— Fishing for Pearls — Mr. Edwardes’s Pearl — Story of the
Datu, and his great goodFortune — The Mermaid Pearl — Present
State of Piracy on the North-West Coast — Cruise of the
Balignini in 1861 — Ransom of Inchi Ngah — Names of present
Haunts of the Balignini — A Mangrove Swamp — Present Sys-
tem of Balignini — Escape of a Native — The Lanuns — A
Dayak’s Experience — A Slave Mart — Spanish Attack on Sugh —
Severe Fight — Bravery of the Sulus — Capture of the Town —
The Sulu Government retire to the Flills, and refuse to submit
— A Teak Forest burnt — No Teak in Borneo — Elephants
extinct in Sulu.

Started from Labuan in the steamer Nemesis ; and
passing over our old ground soon found ourselves
in the Sulu seas. It is difficult navigation, hut
we passed safely among the shoals, steering south of
Cagayan Sulu, and between the islands of Ubian and
Pengaturan, where there is a deep channel. The
latter is a long and low island, of great extent, with
a few small villages, palm groves, and near it we
observed many fishermen’s canoes. The sea is studded
with shoals and little islands, and I counted eleven
at one time from the deck. It was misty weather
when the island first appeared ; but as we approached
Sugh the weather cleared, and by the time we had
anchored it was tolerably fine. Since our last visit
many houses have been built, and the town is gradu-
ally assuming its ancient appearance.

A quarter of an hour after our arrival Mr. Wynd-
ham, whom we had met on our previous visit,
came on board, and brought us the little news he
possessed, that Sulu was perfectly tranquil, and that
the Dutch, with two small vessels, were gradually ex-

202

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

tending their claims along the east coasts of Borneo,
that the Governor of Manilla had protested against
the Dutch interference in Sulu, and that the pirates
of Balignini were utterly rooted out of their old
haunts on the islands of Tonquil and Balignini. But
it was a mistake to imagine that the Spaniards had
killed or taken prisoners the whole number, for very
many escaped and retired to Sulu. Mr. Wyndham
was startled on hearing of the expected arrival of an
European enemy, and uttered many exclamations as
to the injustice and barbarity of attacking an inoffen-
sive people, and asked many questions as to the profit
of making this aggression, though he was scarcely
surprised, as he had known they had long desired the
eastern coast of Borneo, and that they are endeavour-
ing to obtain a show of right for its seizure, as by
them our ancient claim is no longer remembered.

At four, we left the Nemesis with Mr. Wyndham, to
visit datu Molok, the prime minister. We pulled in
for the little creek in the centre of the town, passing
many new houses lately built by the Chinese.
Mr. Wyndham told us that he found them very
troublesome competitors ; as, spreading themselves
over all the neighbouring islands, they offered
apparently higher prices for produce than he could
possibly do ; so he obtained from the sultan an order
for their recal to the capital. I say apparently
higher prices, for by means of false weights and the
tricks usually practised by the Chinese, they were
enabled to outbid the honest European. Yet I fear
that in this there is much commercial jealousy, and
that the injury done to the general trade by the

THE SULTAN’S PALACE.

203

restriction is much greater than the profit to the indi-
vidual.

As we passed before the fort I could see numerous
guns displaying their adamantine lips through the
embrasures ; and I learned from our companion that
the Sulus possess about 150 brass guns, besides in-
numerable iron ones. In the market-place, crowds
of armed men were assembled, looking eagerly and
anxiously at us. We landed at the little bridge,
and learning that Molok was at the sultan’s palace,
we proceeded thither, escorted by about half a dozen
men armed with long spears, and followed by a crowd
of men, women, and children. We soon arrived at
the fort, and then entering the old audience hall,
found it in much the same condition as before, quite
as bare of ornament, with the old round table and
white cloth, and the chairs arranged around. Datu
Molok was present, with a few others ; and we had
nearly arranged about the salute when the sultan
entered, and it was settled that it should be given the
next day.

The news of the Dutch having taken Bali made
them all look at each other with marks of great dis-
quietude, and when they heard of the amount of the
Dutch force which was expected to visit Sulu, their
uneasiness was clearly to be seen under their assumed
quietude. The sultan appeared in better health,
but the heaviness of the lower part of his face gives
him a stupid look, and his long jacket of white silk
did not suit his pale appearance. Having taken our
leave, we retired, and returned to the ship ; but Sir
James Brooke, being anxious to see some of the

204

TIIE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

datus that evening, sent us on shore again to arrange
a meeting with Mr. Wyndham : but Molok, being
then with the sultan, smoking opium, we went to
datu Daniel’s.

For a couple of hundred yards from the shore
the water was so shallow, that we were compelled
to be dragged along over the sand in Mr. Wynd-
ham’s flat-bottomed boat. Walking a few hundred
yards inland to the left of the town, on the road
to the racecourse, we came to the house. It is
surrounded by a stockade some thirty feet high ;
there were two long iron eighteen-pounder guns to
defend the approaches, hut only one was mounted,
though there were two brass ones ready for service in
his verandah. A wretched-looking pony, and a man
with a chain round his neck pounding rice, were the
most remarkable features of the place.

Having mounted some high steps, we entered the
house, where we found datu Daniel lying down on his
bed, suffering from an attack of intermittent fever.
He sat up, however, and talked a little, expressed his
regret that he Avas unable to come on board and see
the Rajah, but sent one of his people to Molok to
arrange a meeting. The room w'e entered was large,
some fifty feet long by twenty broad, with a raised
recess on one side fifteen feet square. A native
bed, thirty feet long and twelve broad, occupied the
greater portion of the room ; it was divided in two
by a curtain, and resembled more a large raised
room than a bed. At the end were long shelves filled
with packets of goods, small boxes, and innumerable
articles which I could not distinguish, while around

THE DATU’S RESIDENCE.

205

were hung the datu’s handsome jackets, sarongs,
trousers, krises, and other finery for state occasions.
Four gun-cases were piled at the side of the bed,
while in the recess above mentioned, and about the
room, were forty or fifty boxes, containing his valu-
able property ; there was a ladder, also, which led
to the loft.

Chairs were provided for us ; but, with the excep-
tion of the bed covered with beautiful mats and the
handsomely-ornamented pillows, the whole place had
an air of discomfort, a sort of musty look. The
bed itself is no doubt the datu’s chief residence ;
we could only just see the head of the farther
half, as a blue curtain was drawn across, concealing
its beauties and its treasures. Around the room
were arranged several dozen brass spittoons, as if
the chief were accustomed to give large parties.
Some of the women and young girls came to the
doors to look at us ; a few were tolerably good-look-
ing, with their dark eyes and black hair, but the
generality were like the Malays.

Returning, we were, as usual, very much stared
at, hut little followed. We walked behind some of
the stockades, hut saw that nothing had been done
either to repair them, or to mount the guns, which
lay grass-covered in every direction. As they were
those captured from the English when Balambangan
was taken, it is probable they were too honeycombed
to be of any use. We remained at Mr. Wyndham’s
house waiting for Molok’s answer, which came at
length, mentioning nine as the hour.

The news of the intended visit of their last Eure-

206

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

pean enemy must have spread very rapidly ; boats
were plying to and fro from the palace and out-
side houses, bringing all the valuables on shore.
As Molok sent a message that he could not come, we
had a long talk with Mr. Wyndham, who frankly
confessed he was a Spaniard in heart, as he thought
they were more likely to settle the affairs of these
countries than the English, but added, for some
reason he could not fathom, there was an unconquer-
able prejudice among the Sulus against the Spaniards.
It is no doubt an hereditary feeling, for these islanders
and the Castilians have been constantly at war for the
last three hundred years ; the latter endeavouring to
subject them, and the former supporting their inde-
pendence with great determination.

By the treaty of September 23rd, 1 836, the

Spaniards offered their protection and the assistance
of their army and navy to support the sultan and
repel any enemies who might attack him, and the
sultan of Sulu accepted their friendship and protec-
tion. This article the Sulus considered the Spaniards
had failed to carry into effect, as the spirit and
letter of the treaty hound Spain and Sulu to con-
sider their respective enemies as perpetual foes,
except that the Sulus were not required to support
Spain in an European war.

Mr. Wyndham said that Sandakan Bay is exceed-
ingly unhealthy, and that the whole eastern coast
bears the same character during the south-west mon-
soon ; but nearly every tropical place is insalubrious
until cleared and drained. Sandakan is reported to
he one of the noblest harbours in the world, perfectly

BEAUTIFUL SULU KNIVES.

207

sheltered, with eight fathoms of water. Innumerable
boats came around the steamer with vegetables,
cocoa-nuts, eggs, fowls, fruit, krises, Sulu knives,
Dutch 32-pounder shot, cattle, and excellent fish,
particularly the red mullet ; eggs on the whole very
good ; mangoes and plantains ; but krises of indif-
ferent quality ; the Sulu knives, of very peculiar
shape, are mostly made in China for this market ;
a tolerable one, with a sheath of clouded wood, and a
handle with an Arabic inscription, I tried to buy, but
they asked too much for it. The upper portion of
the sheath was of the Kayu Kamuning, a beautiful
wood from the island of Magindanau, which, if it
could he obtained of large size, would he invaluable
for furniture ; but the natives said it was only the
knots of the trees which were beautifully marked.

At one, we saluted the sultan with twenty-one guns.
The echo seemed to commence at the first hill, and
gradually, now with a deeper, then with a lighter
sound, rolled round over the whole circle of hills and
valleys. The sultan returned the salute from his
various stockades.

The English appear very popular in Sulu, their
only enemy being datu Boyak, the rajah Mudu, who
was away. He felt aggrieved with the English on
account of Sir Thomas Cochrane’s attack on Maludu
Bay. His sister had married sherif Usman, its
chief, who, during the fight, was shot in the stomach
with grape, as he, being one of those whom they
deem invulnerable, exposed himself to every fire, and
fought to the last. His wife was inconsolable for his
loss, refused to return to Sulu, retired into the

208

TIIE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

country, fell ill, and died. Her brother keeps this
as a sort of canker in his bosom. The way these
men prepare themselves to he invulnerable is different
from that practised in Sarawak : here they rub their
whole bodies with some preparation of mercury.

I asked Mr. Wyndham about the Rumah Bec/iara,
or House of Discussion, mentioned by the American
navigator Wilkes, but he said it was a mistake : there
was no other council than the general one of the
datus.

A Madras sailor, a British subject, coming on
board, told us the following story : — That seven years
ago he left Batavia in the Andrew* captain and
mate European, the crew twenty-five Lascars. The
Lanuns attacked and took the vessel, killed the Euro-
peans, cleared the valuables out, shuttled the ship,
and carrying the crew off, sold them for slaves.

At three, we started in the gig and cutter to have
an interview with the sultan. In comparison with
the former visit, hut few people were collected. I
found that the musjid is situated within the first
stockade, and the sultan’s hall in the second. Only
thirty people were present ; but as soon as we had
entered, the place was crammed with new arrivals ;
the only difference we observed was that, except the
sultan, none had on their state robes. They no
longer thought it necessary to meet in form, but were
more friendly and familiar. We conversed with the
sultan, Molok, and Daniel, for some time on general

* I think it very probable that he meant that Andrew was the
name of the captain, and that he was one of the crew of Maria
Frederica , whose capture is referred to farther on.

THE BALIGNINI.

209

subjects, and they again eagerly asked questions
about Europe, particularly about France, whether
affairs there were settled.

After arranging some business matters, we left and
returned to the ship. We have always a crowd of
canoes around the steamer with articles for sale ;
among others, rope made here, which appears of
excellent quality, and cheap, some twenty coils being-
offered for a dollar. The hemp grows like the plan-
tain, and is of about the same size and appearance,
and is said to be of the same species.

Marriages are here conducted in the usual Muslim
fashion, and the wives have great influence over the
proceedings of their husband. In the evening, our
native secretary came on board, and after explaining
what had occurred after wre had left, told me he
considered datu Molok to be clever ; datu Daniel,
good-natured, though not brilliant ; and that the
sultan had much ability, but was generally stupefied
with opium ; and from what I have seen and heard, I
think his judgment in all these cases correct.

About eight p.m., Mr. Wyndham came, and we had
a long discussion. He is well acquainted with these
seas, and could give much information on eastern
politics. He told us that before the attack of the
Spaniards on the Balignini, the pirates could muster
above a hundred and fifty boats of a large size, con-
taining from thirty to fifty men each ; that, taking
the average at forty, they numbered altogether about
6,000 men. But besides their large war-boats, they
had innumerable smaller ones, used for the capture
of trading and fishing-boats. He had seen many

14

VOL. II.

210

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

of the pirate prahus of considerable size enter Sugb
harbour.

As an instance of the damage they did to commerce,
be mentioned the following. Six years previously,
the Sarah and Elizabeth , brig, anchored off Timor ;
and requiring wood, the captain sent three boats on
shore to cut it, giving the men only their axes, and
refusing fire-arms. They had not been there long,
when three Balignini prahus passing that way, saw
the ship’s boats drawn up on the beach, and immedi-
ately landed their crewrs to capture the men, in order
to put them to ransom, as they are not like the Lanuns,
who nearly always put their European prisoners to
death. They first met the chief mate, who defended
himself with his axe, until knocked down with a billet
and bound. The other mate and a boy were also
taken, but tbe men escaped into tbe jungle.

Whilst this was going on, it was observed that two
boats were let down from the ship, which pulled im-
mediately out to sea. The pirates, concluding that
there could not be many men on board, determined
to take her. On arriving alongside, they found only
a dog on hoard : the timid captain having run away
in so great a hurry as to leave both it and his
watch behind. The latter -was in datu Daniel’s
possession at the period of our visit. The Balignini
plundered and then burnt the vessel. One of the
mates escaped ; the other whites were brought to
Sulu, ransomed, and sent home by Mr. Wyndham.
This account was given both by the mate and the
chief of the pirates.

Another story showed that the Sulu Govern-

THE LANUNS OF MAGINDANAU.

211

ment was in regular communication with the
pirates ; for when the miserable remains of the
squadron, attacked by the Nemesis off the Brunei
river in 1847, returned to Balignini, the families who
had lost their husbands in the action, came in their
grief to request leave of the sultan to raise men
or collect a force to revenge the death of their
relations. The sultan, of course, refused their
request, and laughed at the absurdity of the
idea.

We heard at Samboangan that the Spaniards had
taken the whole of the pirates, but it was a very
great mistake, for hundreds escaped, and were now
distributed over the Sulu Archipelago, particularly
at Tawee Tawee and the little islands which are
situated in the neighbourhood, as Binadan, the usual
residence of Panglima Taupan.

The most powerful pirates of the present time are
the Lanuns of Magindanau, and those who in Borneo
reside on the streams flowing to the southern shore
of Cape Unsang. It is at these latter stations that
the Lanuns generally rendezvous. Mr. Wyndham
describes these pirates as very fine men, brave, fierce,
never giving quarter to Europeans, and cruising in
vessels ninety feet long, propelled by from 100 to
120 oars. lie had himself seen many of them at
Sugh. The above are the largest class, most are
much smaller. The Lanuns of Magindanau, it is
well known, live on an extensive lake, with a very
narrow entrance ; and are still very powerful, no suffi-
cient force having ever attacked them. They continue

14—2

212

TIIE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

their piratical pursuits to this day, though they appear
to be gradually withdrawing from the north-west and
north coasts of Borneo.

One of these marauders came to Mr. Wyndham,
and, in selling his brass gun to him, said that since
the English have been settled at Labuan, there are so
many steamers about, it was no use pirating; so he
sold his brass gun and returned home.

Mr. Wyndham told us he had once a narrow escape
from them. He was sailing as mate to a Spanish
brig near Wette, with the captain and most of the
crew unwell. There was a light breeze blowing, when
he sent a man to the mast-head to look out. Pre-
sently he shouted — “ A prahu in sight — two, three,
four ; I cannot count them, sir.” Mr. Wyndham
immediately went aloft with his spy-glass, and
reckoned at least thirty-eight large prahus. Guessing
who they were, he thought the bold course the best ;
and, getting the captain on deck, they dressed in
some old uniform and walked up and down the
poop ; then bore down upon the pirate prahus, and,
coming between the two largest, each of the same
size as the brig, they observed their guns carefully
covered up with mats, and but few men on deck,
though they could see others peeping out from
under the native awning. Mr. Wyndham imme-
dately began questioning them ; they said they
were traders. He answered, “We have heard of
some pirates down here, and are come to look for
them.” They assured him they had seen none, and
requested permission to keep him company, for pro-

CAPTURE OF TIIE “MARIA FREDERICA.” 213

tection, to Makasar, to which port they said they
were hound. He answered, they might if they could
keep up with him. A hreczc sprang up, and the
brio- went ahead, and towards evening wrere clear of
them all. A calm came on during the night, but in
the morning the traders were no longer near, they
could be seen in the distance pulling away as hard
as they could. The ruse had succeeded, and they all
felt more comfortable, for they could not have de-
fended their vessel ten minutes.

Mr. Wyndham had formerly served as a mate under
Lord Cochrane, when he commanded a frigate in
South America, and was with him when he per-
formed some of his most brilliant actions, and having
his old uniform perhaps saved his life. Mr. Wyndham
also told us that, a few years ago, a vessel was brought
into Sugh for sale by the Lanuns, which had been taken
in the following manner : — The Maria Frederica ,
commanded by a man of the name of Andrew, was
detained in a calm, when twoLanun boats approached
and begged a few supplies. One of the men, who
hated the captain, asked them why they did not come
on board. The captain was unwell, and there was
no one to stop them. Immediately forty of them
sprang on deck, flourishing their swTords, and drove
the crew below, seized the captain, and brought the
vessel to Tungku. They there buried the white
men up to their waists in sand, and cut them to
pieces with their swords. This it is said they did at
the instigation of the traitor. Mr. Wvndham offered
150 dollars for him, but they would not part with
him, fearing that the Englishman meant to put him

214

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

to death. The vessel, I heard, was bought by a
Spanish captain.*

The Jilolo men are said to co-operate with the
Lanuns in their excursions, and were the pirates
who attacked Sir Edward Belcher. One of the men
present on that occasion, who was living at Sugh
during our visit, gave the following account : — The
sultan of Jilolo sent a fleet of boats to take prisoner
a tributary rajah of New Guinea, whom they got on
board and killed. In returning, they saw the Sama-
rang boats, which the chief man mistook for native
prahus, though our informant insisted they were
Dutch boats, upon which the order was given to fire,
and they were astonished by the severe thrashing they
got from our blue-jackets, under the command of Sir
Edward Belcher.

No doubt these men are always ready to pirate
when they have a chance. Mr. Wyndham also told
me that when he was at the Aru group, it was said
that the people of New Guinea were also piratical.
His companions pointed to a long light boat, that
was on the look-out to catch fishermen : this account
agreed with what we had formerly heard. These are
a scourge to the natives, hut not dangerous to European
vessels, yet in the end equally mischievous to trade.

* This horrible story was originally told us by Mr. Wyndham,
but I made many subsequent inquiries, and had every particular of
the story confirmed by trustworthy native authority. A man
named Si Bungkul, who was a captive at Tungku at the time, told
me he saw an English captain buried up to his waist, and that an
elderly Lanun chief, called Rajah Muda, who was famous for his
long beard, walked up to him, and with one blow cleft him from the
shoulder to the side with his kempilan or heavy Lanun sword.

SULU JUSTICE.

215

Accidentally we hear anecdotes that show more of
the character of the government and people than
even minute investigations. The following illustrates
the degree of protection afforded by the chiefs even
to their guilty followers, unless bribed beyond the
value of the man. There was a slave here who was
in the constant habit of robbing the Chinese, and had,
in his endeavours to escape capture, killed several of
them. The Chinese petitioned that he should be put
to death, but could not obtain this favour until they
had compensated the chief by giving him double the
value of the slave ; he then had him tied up and cut
to pieces.

The slaves taken among the Philippines, who
know how to read and write and possess education,
fetch a much higher price than any others, as they
are useful in keeping their master’s accounts ; and
the women, it is said, by conversing with them, have
gained far greater knowledge than their husbands,
by means of which and their affection nearly rule
them. Forrest says that in his time the women were
very free in their manners, and given to intrigue, but
in Eastern Asia it is a custom not confined to Sulu ;
but my impression from all I heard was that they were
more chaste than the Borneans. The most manly-
looking persons here are those whom they call the
mountaineers, who appear far healthier and more
vigorous than the town’s-people ; but those we saw
may have been merely the cultivators. The inland
people, I heard, are more of the Ida’an race. They
wear padded jackets, and are very brave.

In 1845, a Spanish frigate and fourteen gunboats

216

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

were here at the watering-place, when a Bisayan
slave went alongside of one of the boats to sell fruit :
the moment the officer found he was a native of the
Philippines, he ordered him to be seized and put
on board, though he strongly protested against it.
His master, who had a great affection for him, swore
he would have his revenge and kill a Spaniard. Col-
lecting about two hundred hill people, he rushed un-
expectedly on the gunboats, all his followers advanc-
ing up to the middle in water, and hurling their
spears : having killed several men, he was satisfied,
and retired. The people are not really well armed ;
their spears, krises, and shields would be of little use
against an European enemy.

We again visited the sultan, and found him in his
hall, surrounded by perhaps about sixty or seventy
people. We seated ourselves around the table, and
free and easy conversation commenced. Presently
chocolate was presented to us in tumblers, on plates,
surrounded by native cakes ; afterwards trays of
sweetmeats — among others, some made by the sul-
tana expressly for the occasion ; then coffee, weak,
and flavoured with cloves. For some time they con-
versed on various subjects, but presently datu Molok
said that all business should be settled first, before
any other conversation was proceeded with. When
that was over, the sultan told us that, some short
time back, the eastern coast of Borneo paid tribute
to him, but that lately they had ceased, and asked
the assistance of the English to endeavour to obtain
the renewal of the ancient custom.

At ten we retired. The curtain hung at the end

PUBLIC AUDIENCE WITH THE SULTAN. 217

of the hall this evening was half raised, and disclosed
the huge bed, on which were sitting many of the
principal women of the harim.

Went on shore at the watering place ; had a short
walk and a delicious bathe. I roughly measured the
circumference of the big tree, and as I have else-
where stated, it was above forty feet in circumference.
In the evening w*e landed in order to have a farewell
interview with the sultan. It wras quite a private
meeting ; a few people only followed us who saw us
land ; and w'hen we arrived at the sultan’s palace we
found that he was in a small house, the residence of
his young wife. While waiting, I looked about the
place ; all showed symptoms of decay. Near us was
the skeleton of an old gaol fallen to pieces, and
farther the timbers of the residence where the late
sultan had died ; for it is a custom of theirs never
to dwell in a house where a great man has ex-
pired. Presently a couple of the datus joined us
in our w'alk, and proceeding over a small stream
along a roughly raised boarded path we reached the
little dwelling of his bride.

We found the sultan resting on a bed filling
nearly half the room. Taking off our shoes, we
mounted, and reclined on numerous pillows brought
by the attendants. After a few minutes’ conversation,
a sort of window at the head of the raised platform
was opened to allow the sultan’s ladies to obtain a
sight of the English visitors. Their room wras too
dark for us to see more within it than a few dim
shadows, and their candles give so imperfect a light,
that I could not clearlv distinguish the features even of

J O

218

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

those women who came to the door ; they appeared to
have fat, laughing faces. Some more of the datus
arriving, conversation became very animated, and
their inquiries were very numerous with regard to
European affairs and European discoveries. This
was a little interrupted by the arrival of chocolate
and cakes, with some spirit like spiced aniseed, and
by the sultan’s frequent puff of the opium pipe with
a barrel as thick as a large bamboo and a brass howl.
About five inches from the end this bowl had a small
centre hole, in which, with infinite trouble, the sultan
introduced the drug. They all appeared remarkably
friendly, and said if we would only come and spend
a little time there after the rice crop was in, they
would take us up to the mountains to hunt deer on
horseback ; or if we liked a change, we might go
shooting, or do anything we pleased.

I should in truth have liked very much to spend a
month in Sulu. We stayed till about ten, and then
shaking hands with all, left the house. On the whole,
I was greatly pleased with these people ; they appeared
manly, and not too cunning. We returned to Mr.
Wyndham’s house, and remained a short time with
him. He was a shrewd man, entirely self-educated,
and appeared anxious to assist us in every way. His
leaning, as I have observed, was towards the Spaniards,
but the natives had such a determined hatred both to
the Dutch and Spaniards, that he could not alter their
disposition.

Left at daylight. Even a distant view confirms
my impression of the great beauty of the island.
We stood on towards Basilan, where, in the Bay of

SAMBO ANGAN.

219

Maloza, seven Spanish gunboats were seen at anchor.
From an officer who came on board we learnt that
the Governor of Samboahgan was there. Sir James
Brooke determined to meet him immediately, and left
with the officer, while we followed and found the
Governor looking as hearty as ever, rather tired from
having been engaged in an expedition up the country
against the pirates. After firing a few guns, the
enemy had fled, leaving their houses and property to
be destroyed.

The great fatigue was in making their way through
the tangled, wet jungle, where the mire was so deep
that they were occasionally up to their waists in it.
The Spaniards are certainly an agreeable people to
meet, and the officers looked intelligent. The
Manilla troops were strong, fine men ; the gunboats
very effective for defence : they mount a 9-pounder
or 12-pounder, and six, eight, or ten brass swivels,
and are well manned ; they are, however, too slow for
pursuit.

The Governor was very much startled by the news
of the expected arrival of the Dutch, of which he had
not the slightest idea, thinking that Bali would
occupy them this summer. He determined immedi-
ately to return and write to Manilla.

Passed Basilan, leaving the gunboats much astern,
and reached Samboahgan. It appeared, of course,
much the same, except that a hurricane had lately
swept over the town, bringing down the church,
thirty houses, and casting on shore four vessels, one
of which remained there. From what we heard,
several instances of piracy had lately occurred, but

220

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

the particulars we expected to learn from the
Governor.

After dinner we landed, and took a walk. The
open rice grounds, the groves of palms, the herds of
buffaloes, the cows, the ponies, the regular roads,
the stone bridges all showed that we were at a place
where Europeans had for some time governed.
Everything was much the same as when we left, even
the hospitality, or rather conviviality, of the corner
shop.

The day we arrived the priests baptized some
natives, among whom were many children of the
pirates and many of their little slaves, all captured
during the last great expedition.

Walked out on the western road, and found it
quite animated with crowds of people who were taking
their Sundav’s amusement : dancing in booths and
houses, collecting in groups chatting and laughing,
playing the guitar and the flute ; in fact, giving
themselves up to enjoyment. In the evening we
went to the Governor’s, and he took us to the
Lieutenant-Governor’s. All spoke Spanish but him-
self, and he acted as interpreter.

A day in the country. The Governor asked us to
breakfast at the government country-house. Some
of us started at half-past six, and walked sharply out.
On either side of us were rice fields, in which were
grazing in the stubble a great many ponies, and
bullocks, and buffaloes. The whole country exhibits
different features from any other place I have seen in
the East ; it is much more European. I found, at a
little distance from the town, almost every person’s

A BREAKFAST IN THE COUNTRY.

221

possession regularly fenced in, and to each house a
little enclosed garden, though rather slovenly kept,
still exhibiting signs of superior cultivation. At the
back of the government house are the grounds, which
are kept in order by the soldiers. They produce suffi-
cient vegetables for the consumption of 350 men :
potatoes, yams, sweet potatoes, beans, cabbages,
onions, and garlic.

Passing the government house, we came to a stone
bridge crossing a beautiful, clear river, bubbling and
rushing over a sandy, pebbly bed. The banks are
high, and the bridge is strong, to meet the immense
rush of water which comes down in the rainy season.
We wandered about till past nine — my companion
sketching and I lazily taking a delicious bath in pure
cold water, that made me feel as fresh as ever ;
and with an appetite sufficient to do justice to the
very admirable and substantial breakfast set before
us, of fish, beef, a magnificent ham dressed in a most
inviting manner, good bread, curries, and a variety of
little dishes, with coffee, wine (Spanish and French),
and very excellent water. Nothing is more tran-
quillizing than a satisfactory breakfast. There is a
species of yam at Samboahgan, which we were told
by one of the officers occasionally weighs above a
hundred and thirty pounds. After breakfast I strolled
about, forded the river, and looked into every nook
and corner, finding pretty cottages and gardens amid
the clumps of graceful bamboos.

In the afternoon we made a cut across the country
to the western road, and, following that, arrived
at length at another river. The whole of the landscape

222

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

was very picturesque. We spent our last day at
Samboangan in a long walk to the westward, for
above three miles, until we arrived at some extensive
downs that border the sea, and strolled for hours
over them, admiring the beautiful swell of the land,
and the purling streams that flowed over their pebbly
beds. The day before we started the Governor and
principal officers dined on board.

From what I have seen of the people of Sam-
boangan, I should say they are contented and happy,
well fed, and lightly taxed. They all look plump,
even the very old exhibited none of that ugliness
so conspicuous among the aged Malays. The
children, particularly the girls, have pleasant, pretty
faces, with an intelligent, confiding expression ; the
little ones, both girls and boys, were familiar and full
of fun. There are apparently a great many schools :
all the boys we met in the afternoon appeared to be
returning with their satchels hanging at their sides.
One I examined possessed a miscellaneous collection
of lives of saints, crumpled paper, and fruit. The
men have hy no means a pleasant expression, but are
a well-made, able-bodied race. The Governor told
us he established one village in the mountains for the
protection of the wood-cutters, another on the coast for
that of the fishermen.

Before leaving the subject of these lovely islands, I
will relate the story of the loss and recovery of the
English schooner Dolphin , as showing to what kind of
hazards traders are exposed in these peaceful-looking
seas.

I was visiting the northern coasts in the Pluto

THE LOSS OF THE “ DOLPHIN.” 223

steamer in November, 1851, and bad just cast
anchor in Maludu Bay, when I heard the parti-
culars of a frightful tragedy. Sherif Hasan came
on board ; Hasan is the son of the Sherif Usman
I have before mentioned. He came down to the
cabin with a sorrowful countenance, and when I
inquired the news, he answered, “ very dreadful.” I
soon learnt from him that the English schooner
Dolphin , from Labuan, had been cut off, and
Mr. Burns, the supercargo, and the English cap-
tain, three sailors, and one woman killed. From all
I could then gather, the particulars of the affair were
as follows : — About a month ago, Mr. Burns agreed
with Tuanku Hasan that he should pilot him round
the east coast in order that he might find Kina
Batahgan, hut a quarrel arose between Mr. Burns
and his captain, which came to blows. After this
quarrel they agreed to return to Labuan, and giving
up the idea of trading to the eastward, they set
sail from the harbour, and anchored at a little
distance from Limau-Limauan — a point on the
north-western side of the bay.

There Memadam, a Lanun from Tungku, pulled
alongside in a trading prahu, and saying he wished
to barter some things he had, came on board with
a party of nine men apparently unarmed, and brought
camphor and other articles for sale. Whilst they
were bargaining on deck, a man named Ibrahim
handed a folded mat to Mr. Burns, who put out his
hands to receive it ; the man then suddenly drew a
naked kris that had been hidden in the mat, and with
one blow cut Mr. Burns’s head off ; Memadam struck

224

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

at the captain, but hit his jaw only ; the Englishman
made a rush below, or, as others declare, out on the
bowsprit, but was stabbed through the back with a
spear. The pirates then killed the woman and three
sailors, whom they came across, the rest who fled up
the rigging they spared on condition of their navi-
gating the ship. The pirates then set sail for the
east coast, and arriving at Labuk Bay, the vessel was
seized by Sherif Yasin, who, as Tuanku Hasan
asserts, killed two of the pirates. The chief, Mema-
dam, retired to the woods with two of the captain’s
sailors. The reason they gave for killing the woman
was that her presence on board caused disputes ; one
man seized her by the left arm, and declared she was
his property, as he had seen her first; another denied
his claim, and already they had drawn their swords
on each other, when Memadam came up behind, and
stabbed her through the back, saying she should
belong to neither.

The Tuanku complained bitterly of the cutting up
of the trade of the coast by the pirates ; as many as
fifty of their boats were cruising off* the bay during
the last season ; they came from the Binadan islands,
near Tawee Tawee. The boats from Tungku also
occasionally infest this place, and many manned by
the Sulus of Padang have been cruising here lately.
Sherif Hasan, the son, as I have observed, of Sherif
Usman, appeared deeply annoyed at the state of affairs
at Maludu. He said that although the government
rightfully belonged to him, yet datu Badrudin was
continually intriguing, and he had left the town un-
able to withstand his machinations. The Dusuns, or

THE TUNGKU PIRATES.

225

rather the Ida’an, were very dilatory in paying the
rightful tribute, being interfered with by the datu.

It appeared true that this datu was a very bad
man to hold the government, as he was shutting up
the productions of all these districts, hoping to monopo-
lize them himself, wishing to trade directly with Java
or Singapore on a large scale, or to induce European
vessels to visit the Bay. lie deceived the ships that
came to him, and no cargoes were obtained, so that
he clogged commerce, and made little profit himself.
The trade of this coast would be great if unfettered,
and Maludu Bay is certainly as productive as any
district.

Sherif Hasan stated that he Jias heard of two
English ships besides the Dolphin being captured
by the pirates of Tungku, hut those instances were
several years ago ; the Europeans were murdered, the
rest kept for slaves. The Tungku pirates generally
plunder more to the eastward and southward, and
make great havoc among the Bugis boats. Started
at daylight in the armed cutter for the town of
Maludu. The head of the hay for nearly four miles
from the shore shallows from about two fathoms to
scarcely sufficient to float a boat.

After three hours’ pull we arrived, poling our way
up the narrow creek to the houses. The country is
flat, but at the back the mountains soon rise : there
are a few cocoa-nut and other fruit trees scattered
about. We stopped at Tuanku Musahor’s house, as
datu Badrudin’s was some distance up the river.
We climbed the steps to a shabby passage, leading
into the main room, where an enormous Malay

VOL. II. 15

226

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

bed, some twenty feet square, as usual filled up a
large portion of the space, on which mats were spread,
and having shaken hands with the assembled company,
our conversation commenced ; there were present
Sherifs Musahor, Abdullah, Jenalahudin, a Tringganu
man, who backed Usman in his defence of his forts,
and Sherif Husin, a brother of Sherif Moksain’s, of
Sarawak.

Our conversation turned naturally on Mr. Burns, as
I had come to make inquiries. Sherif Husin was pre-
sent during the massacre, he had come on board whilst
Mr. Burns was talking to the Lanuns and Sulus. By
his invitation he stept aft, and while he was looking-
over the stern, and speaking to some men in his boat,
he heard a noise, and turning, saw Mr. Burns fall
before the kris of a Sulu, and the Lanun cutting at
the English captain. He did not see whether or not
any of the sailors were killed, but saved by his sacred
character, the Lanuns did not meddle with him, and
he hurried away into his boat, and the schooner was
taken eastward. Sherif Musahor added, that he had
received a letter about fourteen days before from
Sherif Yasin, stating the men had brought the
schooner to Benggaya, in Labuk Bay, and that he
immediately seized it, after killing two of the
pirates.

I heard, however, from Sherif Hasan that Yasin
had divided the cargo among the Sulu rajahs of the
river of Labuk and himself ; and that at the latest dates
Yasin had not destroyed the vessel, but had taken it
up to the town, or rather village, of Benggaya. We
talked a good deal over the affair, but nothing new

227

RECAPTURE OF THE “ DOLPHIN.”

came out of it, except that Musahor said he sent a
message to Yasin to preserve the ship and cargo
until news arrived from Labuan.

Steaming along the coast amid the shoals some-
what delayed our passage ; but arriving off Benggaya
we tried to find the river ; in this we failed, but the
following morning two canoes pulled off from shore,
and on reaching us proved to contain some of
the crew of the Dolphin , and a messenger from
Sherif Yasin. The men said the vessel was safe up
the river, and that the cargo was on hoard, and at the
village and untouched, and that they themselves had
been fed and well treated by the chief of Benggaya.
Starting again, we found the entrance very shallow ;
but as the tide rose we entered and pulled up the
stream. It might easily be passed, as the branch to
the right appeared the broader of the two. To
reach the houses it is necessary to keep the left-hand
branches for about ten miles from the sea, and then
the first to the right, and you arrive at the village
after about twenty miles’ more pull.

The flood tide moved us lazily along by banks of
the everlasting mangrove and nipa, occasionally
diversified by a little high land with heavy jungle
trees. As we advanced, we met a boat with Sherif
Idrus, Yasin’s father-in-law, coming to meet us. I
told him we would ascend to the village, and he pre-
ceded us. About sunset we reached the schooner,
anchored in a narrow part of the river ; a dozen of
the Tuanku’s men were on guard, and we found the
hatches nailed down, and the door of the cabin
secured, to prevent the goods being meddled with ;

15—2

228

TIIE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

blood was sprinkled on the white paint in the cabin,
and still darkly defaced the deck.

After a short conversation, I found that although
the schooner was anchored above fifteen miles from
the river’s mouth, the village was at least that distance
farther off. To save a day, therefore, I determined
to go up to the town myself that night in the
Tuanku’s boat, and a friend accompanying me, we
started. Before we stopped, I had reason to con-
gratulate myself on my determination. Had we tried
to ascend next day in the ship’s boats, we should
scarcely have arrived by sunset, but a strong crew in
a light canoe, pulling hard, enabled us to reach
Benggaya village about half-past nine. The moon
shone brightly through the trees, casting a clear
light over a scene sufficiently curious. The
narrow river was spanned by a light, rough wooden
bridge, a shade better than a Dayak one. A few
houses well lighted were on the opposite bank
to the large dwelling of the chief. Sherif Idrus
took us by the hand and led us up to Sherif
Yasin, who begged us to be seated. It was the
first time since a memorable occasion that he had
seen an European. The room was very large,
being, in fact, the principal portion of the house ;
there was a raised sleeping place on one side,
and before us was the chief’s bed, where his women
were hidden by a curtain that fell round it. The
Sherif sat on the end, and we opposite, on boards
covered with white cloth.

Yasin was a young man, pale, with a dissipated look,
but quiet and pleasant in his manners. He was clothed

TUANKU YASIN.

229

in a short dark cloak with arms, a dress peculiar to
the people on this coast, half Chinese, half European.
We entered into conversation on various subjects,
hut principally about piracy and his recapture of the
English schooner. Of this he gave the following
account. That having heard there was a ship off the
entrance of the river, he made inquiries of a Lanun
who had just come up to the village. The man said
the schooner was his ; afterwards he wished to make
out he had captured it from the Spaniards, but the
Tuanku being informed that it was an English vessel,
endeavoured to seize the Lanun, but he resisted and
escaped into the jungle, persuading the Portuguese
cook and a Lascar to follow him. The Tuanku then
sent down a strong force to retake the schooner,
which he succeeded in doing ; the only men who
showed resistance were twro Lanuns, whom he put to
death for killing the white men ; the Sulus he could
not kill, as that might have excited the resentment
of the Sulu rajahs. lie brought the vessel up the
river, and put a strong guard in her, fearing the
Lanuns would return, Memadam, of Tungku, having
threatened to come hack and recapture the schooner.

All present made great complaints of Tungku and
other pirate places, saying it was impossible to carry
on their trade in safety. Tuanku Yasin had only
lately come to Benggaya from Labuk river; he
intended opening a new country ; he would have
lived on the sea coast, but feared piratical attacks.
Such was the account he rendered. He furnished
us with supper, cooked by my servant, Ali ;
omelettes, stews, sliced sweet potatoes, rice, soup,

230

THE SULU ISLANDS SECOND VISIT.

which we enjoyed, and a bottle of wine made the
meal complete.

Tuanku Yasin had unfortunately taken to opium, and
this drug is doubtless the cause of his dissipated look.
When I asked him whether we were the first Euro-
peans he had met, he smilingly answered no, he had
seen them once before. I afterwards found he had
been a backer of Sherif Usman’s, and diad defended
the Maludu forts with great bravery, being the last
man to quit the guns, and then only when the English
force had cut away the boom and penetrated to the
defences.

About one we intimated a desire to retire, and a
comfortable raised sleeping place was provide for us,
at the end of which three young chiefs slept with
drawn krises, a guard of honour, I suppose, over us.
Some of the people had never seen a white face
before, and the town was in alarm, fearing all the
sailors were about to ascend.

Nov. ls£. — At daylight I was up, writing out depo-
sitions, when I observed a number of men lounging
near with lighted cigars ; I drew my companion’s
attention to the fact that these Sulus were actually
smoking whilst leaning over twenty-five barrels of
gunpowder. Soon after Tuanku Yasin made his
appearance. He brought out the portion of the cargo
which he had stowed away in his inner room, consist-
ing of arms, guns, powder, cloths, and a number of
small articles. After a good breakfast, and a friendly
parting, we started. Argus pheasants were very
numerous in the woods, and Sherif Yasin had con-
structed a large aviary under his house in which he

PEARL FISHERS.

231

had about ten or twelve, and he presented me with a
very handsome pair. The men who manned the canoe
placed at our disposal by Sherif Yasin, pulled down
with the ebb at a good pace, and yet we did not reach
the schooner until about ten, three hours’ rapid moving,
perhaps above fifteen miles. The river winds in the
most extraordinary manner ; one place, divided now
but by heavy drift, took us a two miles’ turn to arrive at
the opposite side. We found the ship’s boats pulling
up to meet us, thinking, as we had not returned
that some accident had happened. Got the schooner
under weigh, and then started in the cutter, reaching
the steamer about seven.

3rd. — Having prepared the schooner for sea, we set
off, towing her part of the way on her voyage back.
A fleet of boats was reported ahead ; all rushed on
deck, thinking they might he the Lanuns about to
attack Benggaya. I went up, and looking through
the spyglass, they appeared war-boats of large size.
We steamed towards them ; they drew up on the beach,
and presently we saw the crews hurrying with their
goods on shore ; as we neared, they gradually appeared
smaller and smaller ; we had, in fact, been completely
deceived by their looming over the waters. When
abreast of them we anchored, and I went off in the
gig to see who they were, intending to hail them and
speak ; but as we drew near our guides declared they
were Baju boats, and this we soon found to be the
case. They were small, neatly constructed, and fitted
up for the residence of a family.

As we closed with the beach we waved a white
handkerchief to them, and hailed ; presently three

232

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

men showed themselves, and came to us. One was
a Sulu ; two others were Bajus. They were rather
big men, featured much like the Dayaks. They
came from Banguey, and were bringing new boats
to sell to Sherif Yasin. I invited them to come
on hoard ; they said they were in a great state of
alarm, and men, women, and children rushed into
the jungle, hiding their goods, as the Sulu man
thought we might be Spaniards. They afterwards
came on board. We inquired about clamp shells
(the Concha gigas). They had never seen any
longer than two feet. These Bajus were going to
collect pearls at Lingkabu for the sultan of Sulu, who
had made a contract to furnish some, I believe, to
Mr. Wyndham. These men had never lived in
houses.

I may conclude the story of the capture and re-
capture of the Dolphin schooner, by observing that an
attempt was made to enter into communication with
the Lanuns of Tungku, who, however, instead of
respecting the white flag, fired on us, causing us some
loss ; we destroyed a few of their villages, but being
only a desultory operation, it had no permanent effect.
The British Government, hearing of the good con-
duct of Sherif Yasin, rewarded him liberally.

I have referred to those Baju boats going to Ling-
kabu, off the mouth of the Labuk river, to fish for
pearls. The Sulu Archipelago furnishes, probably,
a greater number of beds of valuable oysters than any
other part of the world, and would, no doubt, be
exceedingly productive, if proper measures were taken
to develope them. At present, however, the natives

STORY OF T1IE DATU.

233

confine themselves to dredging with what has been
aptly described as the fluke of a wooden anchor, and
consequently obtain but few. In shallower water,
they occasionally dive, but are not sufficiently prac-
tised to do so when the sea is eight fathoms deep. I
heard of an Englishman endeavouring to send down
men with a regular diving helmet, but it was said
he found that the current was so strong as to prevent
the air passing down the tubes, by flattening them ;
but there must have been some mismanagement. <

Occasionally some very fine pearls are obtained, and
brought to Lahuan for sale ; I heard of one which
was remarkably large and well shaped, purchased by
the Hon. George Edwardes, late Governor of Lahuan,
and wras pronounced, by all who saw it in the East,
as the best that ever had been brought under their
notice. I have seen very handsome ones myself,
some perfectly round, others slightly pear-shaped.

The natives tell a story of a certain datu, who was
a great trader, and fond of sailing a prahu from Sulu
to Manilla ; during the course of his voyages, he made
the acquaintance of an English merchant, who had, on
various occasions, trusted him with goods and treated
him very liberally, not an unusual circumstance in the
East. At last the datu took to gambling, and
squandered all his property, sold his houses, his
slaves, and at last lost a large sum, and was obliged
to place his wife and children in pawn as security.
The only property he had preserved wras a favourite
slave boy, and with him he started in a small canoe
to the oyster-banks. There they remained fishing,
and had varied success, but every day increasing the

234

THE SULU ISLANDS SECOND VISIT.

amount in the hollow bamboo in which the natives
generally keep their small seed pearls. In the even-
ings the datu would talk over the tales they had
heard from other fishermen, and the chief delighted
to recount the story of the vast pearl which was seen
by the men of old, and actually brought in its oyster
into a canoe, but had slipped from the fingers of
the incautious captor. The natives declare that the
oysters containing the largest pearls are always open,
until you approach them, and that by cautiously
peering into the water, they may be seen.

One day the slave boy was preparing to dive, when
he started back, touched his master’s sleeve, and with
signs of great emotion pointed into the water ; he
could not speak. The datu looked, and there, seven
fathoms below them, lay an oyster, with an enormous
pearl distinctly visible. Without a moment’s reflection,
he plunged in, and dived with such skill and speed,
that he reached the shell before it closed, and actually
had his fingers caught in it. He thrust hand and
shell into his bosom, and, being an expert swimmer,
rose quickly to the surface, and was helped into the
boat by his anxious follower. They then forced open
the oyster, and there lay a pearl, unsurpassed in size
and of an extraordinary shape ; they pulled back to
Sugh, and selling all his smaller pearls, the datu re-
deemed his wife and children, and set sail for Manilla.
There he went to the house of his English friend and
said, “ Take this pearl, clear off my debt, give me what
you like in return, I shall be satisfied.” The merchant
took the pearl, gave him what he considered its value,
at all events, enough to make Sulu ring with his

CURIOUS SUPERSTITION.

235

generosity, and sent the pearl to China, and what
became of it I never could distinctly trace ; but
I heard that what was called the “ Mermaid
Pearl” in Bengal originally came from China, and
the Sulus say their one was like the body of a
woman.

It is a very curious superstition in those countries,
that if you place gold or pearls in a packet by them-
selves, they will certainly decrease in quantity or in
number, and, in the end, totally disappear ; but if
you add a few grains of rice, the treasure is safe.
With pearls they always do so, under the impression
that they not only preserve the amount hut actually
increase the number. I have never yet seen a native
open a packet of gold or pearls, or any precious stones,
without noticing some grains of rice.

The instances I have given of piracy are merely
referred to, to show what kind of mischief the pirates
commit. I am aware they are not very modern
instances, but they were fresh when I wrote them in
my journal, and the same system is still pursued,
though not to the same extent ; but I may add a few
remarks on the present state of piracy on the northern
coast of Borneo. Once a year a fleet of Balignini
pass down the coast on their outward voyage, or
running before the south-west monsoon on their return
home. In the month of July, 1861, a squadron of
private prahus coming up from the southward, sailed
across the deep Bay of Sarawak, and their light boats
had a slight skirmish with a weakly manned Sarawak
gunboat, hut directly they found a twelve-pounder
shot passing close to them, they pulled back to their

236

TIIE SUI,U ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

consorts, as it is a maxim with them to avoid all en-
counters where blows are likely to be obtained, as they
say, “ We seek to plunder, not to fight.” Continuing
their course they reached Point Sirik, and there
captured a boat containing several of our Indian
British subjects, and giving Labuan a wide berth
picked up a few fishermen off Mengkabong, and at
last reached Maludu Bay. Here they met some
trading pralius from Sulu, and with them they held
friendly intercourse.

On board the Balignini pralius was a respectable
native named Inchi Ngah, from one of the Dutch
settlements on the west coast of Borneo, who had been
captured off Pontianak: he immediately recognized
some fellow-countrymen on board the Sulu pralius,
who had been missing from their homes above a year.
He now learnt that they had been captured by the
Balignini during the year I860, and had been taken
to Sulu ; that there the sultan, finding they were of
high rank, had interested himself in their case, and
taken care of them, and had now sent them back to
Borneo as passengers, on board a Sulu trader on his
way to Labuan. Inchi Ngah begged they would
ransom him, but they had no property. At last they
persuaded the Sulu trader to do it for them, and
Inchi Ngah was once more a free man. They arrived
in Labuan the latter end of August, just as the
Rainbow steamer was about to start for Sarawak, and
hearing that the great friend of the Malay race was on
board, they came and laid their case before him. As
he never refused his assistance where it was possible,
he not only gave them all passages to Sarawak, but

A MANGROVE SWAMP. 237

refunded to the Sulu trader the money he had
advanced to ransom Inchi Ngali.

Having been a fellow-passenger with these men, I
had many opportunities of conversing with them, and
they told me that when they were taken there were
already a hundred and fifty captives on board the
boats, and that the Balignini who captured them
came from two places on the chief island of the
Archipelago — Sulu itself — and that the names of
their settlements were Dundong, and the little river
of Kabungkul. They added, that the’ Balignini, in
order to preserve themselves from attack, now always
chose spots which were too shallow for steamers or
men-of-war to approach, that these two settlements
had to be reached through intricate channels leading
through a mangrove swamp, and that the houses were
completely hidden by the trees.

A mangrove swamp is one of the most unpleasant
things to cross, and, therefore, affords great protection
to settlements built within its mazes. The mangrove
tree always grows in salt or very brackish water, and
its roots lift it several feet above the soil, allow-
ing the tides to flow freely between them : at high
water canoes can be pulled among the trees, but at
low tide it presents a tangled but open bunch of
roots to each separate tree, and it can only be passed
by springing from one slippery root to another, and
by the assistance of the branches. The mangrove
trees at a distance look to an unpractised eye much
like other jungle, only they are of a more uniform
height and appearance ; yet the colour of their leaves
can never be mistaken.

238

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

The fact that these Balignini have settled on the
island itself, shows either that the sultan is indifferent
to the spread of piracy, or is unable to check his
subjects. But the fact is, probably, that as piracy is
not looked upon as a dishonourable pursuit, native
princes only discountenance it when they are under
the dread of its drawing on them the vengeance of an
European power. The principal other positions held
by the Balignini, as I have elsewhere observed, are
Binadan and Tawee Tawee.

The system pursued by the Balignini is admirably
adapted for their purpose ; although they cruise in
large prahus, yet to each they have three or four
attendant fast boats, and when they wish to surprise
unwary fishermen, they anchor their large vessels out
of sight of land, and send in the others to make
captures ; the most curious instrument they employ
is a kind of huge double-pronged fork, with barbed
ends, which they push over the neck of a flying
enemy, and effectually stop his movements.

A few years ago, some followers of Amba de Bajah,
a Bornean, residing in Sarawak, were pulling along
the shore, when they suddenly came upon a Balignini
fast boat ; they immediately turned and fled, and were
followed by the pirates, who shouted to them to sur-
render, but the Borneans took no notice. The chief
of the Balignini kept up a fire from his rifle at the
fugitives, and at last hit the steersman in the side,
who took no notice, but continued to urge on the
others to renewed exertions : again and again he was
struck, but did not drop his paddle, but continued
the flight ; at last a large trading boat coming in

THE LANUNS.

239

sight, the pirates gave up the pursuit, and the Borneans
escaped. The brave fellow, who received the three
wounds without flinching, though he suffered much,
vet eventually recovered, and I afterwards saw him
in Sarawak.

The Lanuns, though fiercer and more warlike
pirates, have ceased for several years to infest the
north-west coast, but have more confined their
cruises to the neighbourhood of the Spanish and
Dutch settlements.

I was once very much interested by hearing a
Dayak converse of the times when he went out with
the Lanun pirates. We had just returned to Sarawak
from a mission to the Court of Siam, and were visit-
ing the Sibuyau Dayaks of Meradang, when the
chief asked us where we had been. The rajah
answered, To Siam. Immediately an intelligent-look-
ing Dayak said, “I know Siam, and the country of
Annam as well, for I in former years used to go there
in the pirate boats.”

On inquiry we found that when the Lanun fleets
came down this coast, they had numerous places
where they received a hearty welcome, among others
at Sadong : the Sibuyaus were employed by them to
row their boats under a promise of receiving the
heads of all the slain, and a very small share of the
plunder. Many of those present had been out with the
pirates along the coasts of Cochin China, Cambodia,
Siam, and down the Malay Peninsula as far as Singa-
pore. But the tables were subsequently turned, and
the Lanuns preyed on their former allies. After our
attack on Tungku, a man came off to us, and proved

240

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

to be a captive taken at Sadong, but be evidently did
not dislike bis present position, as be went ashore
again under the pretence of collecting other fugitives,
and we saw no more of him ; most probably he had
married in the country. I have often heard the
natives speak of a captain of an English man-of-war,
named Morris, who committed suicide after an unsuc-
cessful attack on the Lanun pirates at Sambas, about
the vear 1812, but I have never been able to verify
the story.

Steamers, however, are beginning to disgust them
with the life, and if a little combined and active
effort were made by our steam gunboats, in conjunc-
tion with those of the Dutch and Spaniards, piracy
might be effectually suppressed. Traders who were
accustomed to the Sulu seas used to speak of the
little island of Sarangani, off the coast of Maginda-
nau, as a mart where the pirates assembled to sell
the captured slaves to those traders who frequented
that port, and the latter were generally from Sulu,
though occasionally a few Bagis prahus came in to
purchase the women and children, but it is possible
that many changes have since taken place.

I have before observed that Sulu was a great slave
mart, and that pirates and slave-dealers of every kind
were accustomed to resort there : it is not suprising,
therefore, that the Spaniards should organize an
attack upon it, but it was unfortunate that this attack
should take place immediately after the sultan of
Sulu had signed a treaty with the English, and I
have little doubt that the object could have been
better effected by a regular surveillance. But the

SPANISH ATTACK ON SUGII.

241

Spanish authorities thought differently, and early in
1851 they sent to make demands on the sultan, and
on these not being immediately complied with, the
men-of-war opened fire upon the towm, which was
promptly replied to by the shore batteries. I saw a
letter from the sultan of Sulu, recounting this engage-
ment. He said that after “ an awful cannonading, by
the blessing of God we disabled two of their vessels,
and they retired.”

But this was only a preliminary attack. In the fol-
lowing month a large naval force came down from
Manilla, with seventeen hundred troops, and landing
near the great tree at the watering-place, marched
upon the town while the ships shelled it from the
harbour. The Sulus behaved with great courage, and
though opposed to regular soldiers, and defending a
comparatively unprotected part of the town, as they
had reckoned on an attack by sea, and not by land ;
they held their own for several hours, and it cost
their enemy one hundred and fifty killed and wounded
before they abandoned their houses and retired to the
hills.

Datu Daniel and his brothers defended their
stockade to the last, and it was here that the Spanish
suffered their severest loss ; several of the young Sulu
nobles were killed, and the stockade carried by
assault. The Spanish troops behaved very well. The
town was then garrisoned, but it would have taken an
army to subdue the whole island, as on losing Sugh,
the sultan and his ministers retired to the mountains,
where the Spanish forces found it impracticable to
follow them. A kind of truce was patched up, but they

16

VOL. II.

242

THE SULU ISLANDS — SECOND VISIT.

have refused to acknowledge the supremacy of Spain,
and have removed the seat of government beyond the
reach of ships’ artillery, and I saw a letter from the
sultan, in which he said he would rather die than hoist
the Castilian flag. Last year I heard the sultan was
most anxious to send his sons to England to be
educated, but had no means of accomplishing his
wish. The Spaniards soon found their conquest a
very unprofitable one, as they only held those spots
which were actually in the possession of their troops ;
they soon, therefore, abandoned the island, though
they for some years had a garrison, I heard, on the
little island of Tulyan.

I pitied the sultan and his nobles, as with all their
faults they were capable of much better things, and
had a little judicious influence been used to guide
them well, and a little power exercised to destroy the
actual pirate haunts, there would have been no oc-
casion to destroy the pretty town of Sugh.

I do not think I have mentioned elsewhere, that
when I first saw this picturesque island, there was a
forest, dead in appearance, on the right hand of the
town, covering the slopes of one of the high hills.
This was an extensive wood of fine teak trees. A
long drought had rendered everything as dry as
touchwood, when an incautious islander lit a fire
among the trees, and the dead leaves and twigs
around being perfectly dry soon ignited, and the
flames spread in every direction, and charred and
burnt the trees, stripping them of their luxuriant
foliage ; but five months after, I again visited this
spot, and found that manv of the apparently dead

ELEPHANTS EXTINCT IN SCJLU.

243

trees were now putting forth buds and young leaves,
as the fire had not completely destroyed all.

It is a very singular circumstance that the teak is
not found in any of the forests of Borneo, although
in former days it was said to exist on the north-east
coast, but I made very particular inquiries of the
Sulus whom I found there, and they said they had
never seen it except on their own island. It is a matter
of regret, as although Borneo possesses some very fine
woods, yet none equal to the teak.

Remembering Forest’s statement that elephants
were found in his time in the forests which clothed
so much of the soil of the island, I asked Datu
Daniel about it ; his answer was, that even within the
remembrance of the oldest men then alive, there
were still a few elephants left in the woods, hut that,
finding they committed so much damage to the plan-
tations, the villagers had combined and hunted the
beasts till they were all killed ; I was pleased to find
the old traveller’s account confirmed.

244

CHAPTER X.

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

Its Nominal Extent — Its Government — The Sultan — The Viziers —
The Shabandar — The inferior Officers — Their Influence — “ The
Abode of Peace ” — Poverty-stricken Gentlemen — Possessions of
the Nobles — The Country parcelled out among them — Distant
Dependencies becoming independent — Oppression of the sur-
rounding Districts — Divisions among the Nobles — Poverty of
the Nobles — Population of Brunei — System of Plunder — Sale
of Children — Handsome Brass Guns — TheirFate — No Justice —
Crime nominally Punished — No Possibility of Improvement —
Anecdotes — System of Local Self-government — The Parishes —
Their Names, and the Occupation of their Inhabitants — Fishing

Shell Heaps — Asylum — Treatment of a Slave Girl — Political

Parties — Religious Schism — An attempted Explanation — Fol-
lowers of each Party — Difference of Length of Fast Month — •
Visiting the Graves of Ancestors — A pretty Custom — Search
after Excitement — Story Tellers — Conjurors — Their Arts —
Practice of Abortion — The Egg-cooking Trick — The Sultan’s
Palace — Its Inhabitants — His Wife and his Concubines — Their
Treatment — Bold Lovers — Anecdote — Tragical Termination —
The Women deceive their Lords — The Inverted Language —
Education neglected — Sight of a Harim — Mutual Disappoint-
ment— Rajahs pleasant Companions — Their Customs — Tena-
cious of Rank — Decay of Brunei— Exactions suffered by the
Aborigines — The Ivadayans — Tradition — Hill Men united —
Commotion — Kadayans have great Influence — Lovely Country

Kadayans removed to Labuan — Short Description of that

Colony — Excellent Position — Coal — Telegraphic Communica-
tion— Good Effect of our Colony — Trade Increasing — Pepper

Exports — Cotton — Fine Jungle — Method of Collecting the

Camphor and the Gamboge in Siam — The Coal-fields — Revenue
of the Sultan — Brunei Government no Power — Crime un-
punished— A Bold Thief — Makota and the Fire — Nominal

ITS GOVERNMENT.

245

Punishments — Cutting off the Hand — The Fall of Ashes —
Singing Fish — Curious Method of Catching Prawns — Tuba
Fishing— Superstition — Money — Coinage of the Capital — Cloth
— Iron — Gun-metal — Good Manufacturers of Brass Ordnance
— A 12-pounder — Similarity of Customs — The Sultan — lhe
Heir to his Subjects — Makota and his Gold.

Borneo Proper is one of the few Malay kingdoms
that remain in the Archipelago possessing the sem-
blance of independent government ; and as a typo
of what was, and what we may hope is passing away,
it is worth a short description.

Nominally, this kingdom extends from Sarawak to
Maludu Bay and the islands to the north of it ; but,
in reality, it possesses no power, and exercises little
influence over its dependencies.

The government consists of a sultan, now dignified
by the higher title of Iang de per Tuan, freely to
be translated by “ He who governs.” The office is at
present held by one who has no claim by descent, hut
was chosen to avoid a threatened struggle between the
popular, hut illegitimate, sons of the late sultan and
the more legal aspirant to the throne. He is in
general a well-meaning man, hut tainted by a grasping
avarice. Neither in theory nor practice is the sultan
despotic : he must consult on all great occasions with
his chief officers, and all important documents should
bear at least two of their seals.

The four principal officers of state are : the band-
hara, for home affairs ; the de gadong, for revenue
and government stores ; the pamancha, for home
affairs likewise, and who on certain occasions may
supply the place of the bandliara, and transact
business for him ; and the tumanggong, who is sup-

246

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

posed to protect the coast and lead all warlike
expeditions.

There is a fifth officer, of lower rank, the
shabandar, to look after the affairs of commerce, and
regulate the intercourse with strangers frequenting
the port.

Each of the four great officers is entitled to eight
assistants of noble blood, besides others of inferior
rank ; but, as the sultan feelingly observed, the glory
of Brunei, called by themselves Dar’u’salam, the Abode
of Peace, has departed, and he can only find a few
who care to be promoted to these offices, which bring
neither profit nor consideration. The names are
there, hut the reality is gone.

There is a class of officers who possess very great
influence in Borneo ; they are the ministers chosen
from the ranks of the people, the chief of whom is
called the orang kaya de gadong. Seldom is any-
thing of importance undertaken without consulting
them, as they are known to have a powerful following,
and greatly to influence the minds of the people.
At the demise of a sovereign, their influence is
especially felt, and if they were united, I believe they
would carry out their views in spite of any opposition.

The present orang kaya de gadong is now very
old, hut all his life he has been a consistent
opponent of any intercourse with Christian nations ;
and when forced by business to sit and con-
verse with Europeans, the expression of his face is
most offensive, and he looks as if he loathed the
duty in which he was engaged, and he is one of the
few natives I have met who appeared to long to

POSSESSIONS OF THE NOBLES.

247

insult you. He was one of the most active of those
engaged in the conspiracy to assassinate the rajah
Muda Hasim, partly on account of his supposed at-
tachment to the English alliance.

Every descendant of a noble family, whether legi-
timate or illegitimate, is entitled to call himself
pahgeran, or ampuan, which causes the country to
swarm with these poverty-stricken gentlemen, who
are a curse to the industrious classes.

Nearly every district belongs to some particular
family, which by usage possesses an almost unchal-
lenged power over the people, and is thus removed
from the control of the government. Many districts
are divided among various families, who have each
certain villages, and live on the amount they can
obtain by taxes or forced trade. The sultan possesses
a large number, and each of the principal nobles has
several, while many, formerly wealthy, have dissipated
their property, and sold their rights to others.
Those who do not possess any particular districts,
endeavour to obtain a living by pressing from the
aborigines all that their Malay chiefs have left
them.

As, however, the central government is gradually
falling into decay, the more distant dependencies
arc throwing off the yoke of the absent nobles, and
asserting an amount of independence which is mea-
sured by distance and their own power. Agents of
the nobles still visit them, but the produce collected
is but small. This, however, tells heavily on the
districts nearer the capital, and the unfortunate
Muruts and Bisayas are ground to the dust to support

248

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

a useless and idle population. I have given some
anecdotes of this state of things in my journal up the
Limbang.

The divisions among the nobles themselves prevent
them ever uniting to regain an influence over their
distant provinces, which one by one are falling from
them. There is a poverty among these men which
is almost inconceivable in a rich country, as what-
ever the amount obtained from the neighbouring
villages, it can but support the idlers who throng
round the chiefs.

Brunei contains at least 25,000 inhabitants, half
of whom depend, directly or indirectly, on the nobles,
and in their name carry on a system of plunder
unintelligible in other countries. If the followers be
sent to make a demand on a certain village, they
will obtain double the amount for their own shares.
If the inhabitants refuse to pay, their children are
seized ; and if their means are really exhausted, the
little ones are carried off into slavery.*

I knew a man, named Sirudin, who at one time
brought over seventeen children obtained in that way
from the people of Tutong, and this occurred during
the spring of 1857. The parents laid their com-

* I may notice that many of the under estimates of the popula-
tion of this city arise from reckoning the houses at two thousand,
and multiplying that number by five, as the average of a family.
But in Brunei this system will not apply, as to test it, we
have made above a hundred inquiries of different men, as to the
amount of inhabitants in each of their houses, and the highest was
the sultan, with seventy in his palace, while the lowest was seven in a
small fisherman’s hut. I think in placing the average at fifteen, and
reducing the number of houses, I am understating the population,
which is considered by many to exceed forty thousand.

HANDSOME BRASS GUNS.

249

plaints before the sultan ; but Sirudin had sold them
off to the principal nobles, and no redress was to
be had. The sultan pretended to be very angry
with the man, but put the chief blame on the
pangcran de gadong, who, he said, was beyond his
power. The aborigines have often risen in insur-
rection ; hut being disunited, they have not thereby
improved their condition : the Bornean Government
always threatening them with calling in the Kayans
to subdue any opposition. The Muruts and Bisayas
of Limhang are the most impoverished people I have
ever met, excessively dirty, both in their persons
and their houses, covered with scurfy skin diseases,
and their children much troubled with ulcers.

Before the Kayans commenced their inroads into
the districts situated on the hanks of the Limbang
river, the Muruts and Bisayas were much more inde-
pendent than they now are, were more wealthy and
better armed. I have heard my old friend the chief
of Blimhing describe with great minuteness three
beautiful brass guns his father had inherited from his
ancestors, which had silver vent holes, were covered
with scrolls and inscriptions which the most learned
haji could not read. These arms were the pride of
the village, but on an evil day, the late sultan thought
of them, though with all his faults he was not a gross
oppressor of the aborigines ; so he sent for the orang
kaya of Blimhing, and tried to cajole him out of the
guns. For months the chief was firm and would not
part with them, but at last, ceding to his sovereign’s
entreaties, and to the offer of double their value, he
gave way and delivered them up. As soon as the

250

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

sultan had secured them, full payment was found to
be inconvenient, so the chief was never able to get
even their original cost, though if he dunned long-
enough, the sultan would pay him an instalment, and
with many flattering words dismiss him ; very diffe-
rent treatment from what a chief who dunned would
get from the present race of rulers. In fact no
country could have existed half a century under the
existing system. The three guns were doubtless of
Spanish make, and were among those which were
taken from the late sultan, after the capture of
Brunei by Sir Thomas Cochrane, and were sent to
England ; there I heard they were melted up during
the late war, and helped to construct some of the
cannon which were sent to the Crimea. The present
orang kava of Blimbing said, it reconciled him to
the loss of the guns to know how well the English
had thrashed the Borneans.

Even in the capital itself justice is not to be
obtained. The instances which came to my knowledge
were innumerable. I will mention a few to illustrate
my meaning. In 1859, I was one day standing near
my wharf, when my attention was called to a boat
passing, in which there were one dead and one
wounded man. I inquired the cause : it appeared
that a Bornean, named Abdullah, pulling by a canoe
in which two men were fishing, stopped on seeing
them, and accused one of attempting to escape to our
colony of Labuan, affirming that he was a slave.
The man denied both statements ; upon which,
Abdullah began beating him with a paddle. His
father, the other man, interfered to protect his son,

NO POSSIBILITY OF IMPROVEMENT.

251

when Abdullah seized a spear, and drove it through
the old man’s body, and then severely wounded the
son. There was much excitement among the relatives
of both parties, and they assembled in great numbers,
but the sultan and ministers interfered and promised
inquiry. The result was, they inflicted a fine of
120/. on Abdullah, at which he laughed contemp-
tuously, and never paid a farthing. He was con-
sidered to be under the protection of the de gadong,
and no one would interfere to punish him.

All attempts at improving the neighbourhood of
the capital are stopped by such cases as the following.
Another man, also named Abdullah, made a small
plantation of cocoa-nut palms, and carefully tended
them for seven years. Just as they were about to
bear fruit, he was visited by a relative of the
de gadong who claimed the plantation on account
of its being made on his land. Abdullah appealed
to the sultan : it was apparent on the face of it,
he had used waste land, to which he had a riffht.
but the case was decided against him. He asked
permission to visit his property to remove his goods,
and next day called on the pangeran to sav the
ground was at his service. He went to take pos-
session, but found only the land, every tree had been
deprived of its cabbage, and consequently died, and
jungle soon grew up there again. Abdullah placed
himself under the protection of the tumanggong,
who quietly chuckled at the joke. The same thing
would have occurred to one of my own servants had
I not remonstrated.

I will only mention another. A Chinese boy robbed

252

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

his Chinese master of a large amount of goods, and
carried them off to the house of the head Mahomedan
priest, whose son he asked to secrete them for him.
The hoy was subsequently seized, but escaped punish-
ment by turning Mahomedan, and the imam’s son
was considered far too respectable to be punished, or
even to he compelled to restore the goods.

When such cases are of common occurrence it
is not to be expected that the city should be otherwise
than in confusion, being without a government able or
willing to do justice. It is only kept together by the
sort of local self-government which obtains in all
the kampongs or sections of the city, and by the
strong; feeling which unites all the branches of a
family, and often prevents crimes from the fear of
vengeance. I may here notice that Brunei is divided
into kampongs (sections or parishes).

Ascending the river and entering the city, the first
kampong on the left is called Pablat, and is the resi-
dence of some of the most sturdy of the inhabitants ;
they are the fishermen, who have their fixed nets on
the banks of the rivers, and on the extensive sand-
banks which stretch across the bay, inside Muara
Island. Although they are constantly at work, they
are not very enterprising, as they never place their
nets in water deeper than two fathoms. Haji Saman,
an intelligent man, but notorious for his piratical
connections, once tried the experiment in five fathom
waters, and his great success should have tempted
others, but as yet they have not followed his example.
Their nets are made of split bamboo, and are of
various heights : the lower are fixed near the bank,

THE PARISHES.

253

and the longer are added on as they enter Into deeper
water, so that the summits are of uniform height.
The fish ascending or descending the river, and
meeting with this obstruction, follow it to the end,
and enter a very simple trap, being simply open spaces
with narrow passages leading into them; and their
prolonged sides prevent the fish easily discovering the
way out. As soon as it is low water, a basket which
fits the bottom of the inner trap is raised, and the
fish are put into baskets, and the men start for the
capital in the fastest canoes I have almost ever seen,
and never appear to draw breath till they have
reached the town, eight to seventeen miles’ distance
from their nets. Their wives and daughters are
waiting their arrival, and immediately pull off to the
floating market to dispose of the day’s capture. There
is much rivalry as to the arrival of the first boat, as
the profit realized is greater, and for that reason they
will seldom stop to sell their fish during the transit.
I imagine that it is on account of their being con-
stantly in the water that their skins are so scurfy.

The next kampong is Perambat, from rarnbat , a
casting -net, and constant practice has given these men
wonderful proficiency, as standing on the bows of a
small canoe, they will throw a net that has a spread
of thirty feet, with such perfect accuracy that its
outer edges fall in a circle on the water at the same
time, and they thus catch a large amount of small
fish and prawns.

Then follows a large parish, Membakut Pangeran
Mahomed, which contains the houses of manv of the
principal nobles, as well as the residence of the late

254

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

sultan’s widow, all very tumble-down looking struc-
tures ; but above them and at their back is a kam-
pong of blacksmiths and kris-makers, called Pem-
proanan. Then follows Membakut, raised on firm
ground, and here are a few Chinese and Kling houses,
which have been raised since the fire of 1856, to
which reference is made in a subsequent paragraph.
Kampong Saudagar, or the merchant’s parish, derives
its name, it is said, from a Portuguese trader from
Makau having resided on that spot about sixty years
ago, but is now the residence of two nobles, Maha-
rajah Lela and Sura. Kampong Padaun, from daun ,
a leaf, employed in converting the leaf of the nipa
palm into roofing mats ; Pasir, rice cleaners, and
makers of rice mortars; Sungei Kuyuk, wood-workers
and prawn fishers, but more for themselves than the
market ; Pemriuk, workers in brass, from priuk , a
brass cooking-pot ; Menjaling and Pemukat, occupied
by fishermen, as the names imply — jaling, a fishing-
net, puhat, a kind of seine or drag-net. Burong Pinge
is the name of the last kampong on the left side in
ascending, and is inhabited by the principal traders
and wealthiest men in the town.

In ascending the river the first kampong on the
right hand is called Terkoyong, from koyong a shell;
and its inhabitants were the principal collectors of
the pearl oyster, which was at one time so plentiful
near the entrance of the Brunei river. I may remark
that when the collection was very paying, the heaps of
shells which were thrown from the houses, after extract-
ing the pearl, rose several feet above the level of the
floor, although, originally the houses were built on posts

SHELL HEAPS.

255

in the water ; now, however, they appear to have sunk
in the soft mud, and are completely concealed by the
deposits of the river ; hut the level of the hank is
greatly raised. I have heard surprise expressed at the
natives taking the trouble to bring home such cum-
bersome articles as heaps of shells, when the products
they seek might he all contained in a small paper
packet ; they, however, not only seek the pearl, hut
eat its contents the oyster, and a Malay does not
much care for bad smells. And this holds especially
with the aborigines ; they positively appear to have
no olfactory sense at all. I have seen them col-
lecting shell-fish on the beach which they intended
to transport in their boats to their villages, perhaps
fifty miles up a river, and in the warm tropical sun.
The flesh by that time would be nearly decomposed,
yet they appear to enjoy it the more keenly ; in fact,
any man who can eat with relish an egg, black with
rottenness, can have little sense of smell. I think all
the shell heaps which are found in these parts of the
world may he accounted for in this way, though as
the aborigines of Borneo keep pigs, no high shell
heaps are raised, as these indefatigable routers spread
them about in every direction.

Labuan Kapal, or the ship’s anchorage, is the next
kampong, and opposite to the houses there is deep water
up to the wharves, so that ships can load without
boats. The inhabitants are much employed making
the kejangs, or mats of the inner nipa leaf, used to
cover boats, and make the walls of houses. Kam-
pongs Jawatan Jeludin and Khatib Bakir, traders and
blacksmiths. Peminiak, from miniak , oil, manufac-

256

TIIE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

turers of that article ; and it is also the residence of
the two viziers, pahgerans de gadong and pamancha.
Kampongs Paiigeran Ajak, and Ujong Tajong,
general traders ; Sungei Kadayan, right-hand bank
ascending, is the residence of the paiigeran tumang-
gong, and the orang kaya de gadong, and various other
government officers; many of the people are employed
casting brass guns, or are goldsmiths or general
traders, and latterly their women have commenced the
manufacture of expensive and handsome gold brocade.
In this parish the heterodox haji Mahomed lived, and
his mosque is situated ; while on the opposite side of
the little Kadayan river is the orthodox musjid, which,
though built on firm ground, and of brick, is a mean-
looking building. Then follows the palace, with its
attendant houses, the bandhara and his people, and
a kampong sometimes called Pasar, or the bazaar.

The remaining parishes are small, and consist of
Tamui, Panchur Brasur, Kandang Batu or Prandang,
Alangan, Blanak and Tamasik, and are inhabited by
traders, gardeners, and a few blacksmiths, with a
small section called Pahgeran Daud’s kampong, who
are entirely engaged in making mats. Some of these
kampongs occasionally vary their names, particularly
when they depend on those of the principal people
who reside there.

I am afraid this is a dry enumeration, but it gives
an idea of their mode of life, and the sort of corpo-
rations into which they are divided, and who support
the cause of their individual members, whether right
or wrong, and often take the part of a fugitive criminal
who may cast himself at the feet of a chief man and

TREATMENT OF A SLAVE GIRL. 257

ask his protection. Ten years ago a man committed
a murder in Membakut Pahgeran Mahomed, and fled
to the Burong Pinge kampong, whose people refused
to deliver him up; several times the two parishes
mustered their forces, but never came to blows, parti-
cularly as they belonged to the same political parties.
In 1859, after seven years escaping all traps, he fell
into the hands of pahgeran Suleyman, whose follower
he had murdered, and with the consent of the sultan
he was immediately executed.

I was one day walking in the grounds near the
consulate, when I was annoyed by a most offensive
effluvia rising from a line of low trees which skirted
the river’s hank. I found that some one had
placed there the body of a young girl of
thirteen. I reported the case to the sultan,
and heard that two women had agreed to exchange
slaves, a boy for a girl, hut had not yet carried
out the arrangement. The owner of the female slave
noticing she was ailing, sent her to the owner of the
bov, who refused to receive her in that state. The
unfortunate child was bandied about between the two
in an open canoe during a whole day, exposed to sun
and rain, and at night a mat was thrown over her,
and the canoe tied to the wharf of the owner of
the boy. In the morning it was discovered she was
dead, and her mistress, to save the trouble of burying
her, threw her corpse where I found it. The woman
was nominally fined — not for her cruelty, but for
neglecting to inter it.

The capital is divided among the partisans of
the sons of the late sultan, who hold the offices

17

YOL. II.

258

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

of tumanggong and pamancha, and are supported by
their uncle the de gadong ; leaving the bandhara,
the highest minister in rank, though not in power, as
the mainstay of the opposing faction, who support the
sons of the late Muda Hassirn, whose death is
described in Captain Mundy’s volumes on Borneo.
The tumanggong is the popular candidate, and he,
or one of his family, may succeed to the throne with-
out bloodshed, as the opposing candidate is daily
losing ground. I liked both of them, but the former
is more likely to keep things together than the latter.
It is a government, however, beyond all hope of
improvement.

To add to the difficulties of the country, a religious
schism has appeared. It is curious, though very
difficult to be understood. I will endeavour to give a
clear account of my view of the case. About twenty
years ago, a Bornean haji, named Mahomed, taught
that God had no personality ; to say he had, was
to acknowledge oneself an infidel. Being pressed
for an explanation, he said, the personality might
be allowed in the thoughts, but to express it in words
was to compare the Deity to a human being, which
was a gross impiety. The religious world, shocked
at this heresy, sent a deputation to Mecca, who
returned denouncing haji Mahomed as a false teacher.
He replied by accusing the hajis of deceiving the
people ; that his was the true doctrine, as taught
by the elders of the Church, and that he would
go and inquire for himself. After an absence of two
years, he arrived full of Arabic and learning to uphold
his former opinion. The controversy waxed hotter

VISITING THE GRAVES OF ANCESTORS.

259

and hotter, deputation and counter-deputation went
off to Mecca ; but each party always asserted that the
learned doctors had decided for them. Rival mosques
were built, with their rival imams and preachers.
The people of the capital, not understanding the
question, ranged themselves under their chosen
leaders, and added to their political differences their
religious quarrels.

The present sultan, and the family of the late
rajah Muda Hassim, with about a tenth of the city,
hut nearly all the hajis, support the orthodox or
personality theory ; while the pangeran tumanggong,
the rest of the family of the late sultan, and most of
the sections of Brunei, are followers of haji
Mahomed’s doctrine. This controversial haji died
about four years ago, and the present sultan was
very loth to permit him to be buried in the usual
cemetery ; but his friends mustered too strongly to be
resisted, and all opposition was withdrawn. The two
parties have a difference in the length of the fast
month : one reckons it at twenty-nine days, the other
at thirty ; and both are ready to apply the term
infidel to their opponents.

I may mention, whilst speaking of the fast month,
that on its termination the sultan and rajahs proceed
in gay procession to visit and have cleaned the graves
of their ancestors. It is a pretty sight : some fifty
long prahus, urged on by from ten to fifty paddles,
gliding over the waters, with gay flags, bright-
coloured umbrellas, in which the royal yellow, and the
white, black, green, and red of the viziers are

17—2

250

TIIE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

conspicuous. Gongs and drums are beaten, and the
crews shout, to give life to the scene.

There is a very pretty custom among the Malays,
to visit their friends on the great feast-day that
terminates the fast, and to endeavour to do away
with any ill-feeling, jealousy, or animosity, that may
have arisen during the past year, by asking pardon of
all their friends for any shortcomings. They do this
to all, as they thus avoid any peculiar notice of the
offence, and seek forgiveness also for any uninten-
tional annoyance they may have given.

Anything that varies the monotonous life led by
the people of the capital is seized upon with avidity.
They, therefore, delight in story-tellers, conjurors, and
dancers. There are several female professional story -
tellers, who go from one harim to another, relating, in
a sort of chant, metrical tales of former days. They
are supposed to improvise, and may occasionally vary
the tale and embellish it with fresh incidents, hut
they generally rely on the Malay versions of Indian
poems. These women are eagerly sought after by the
court ladies, as they not only thus amuse them, but
are the collectors of the news and scandal of the
day. I have occasionally listened to them, but not
with much interest.

There are also women who pretend to be possessed
with a spirit, and whilst under its influence are
supposed to speak in an unknown tongue — uttering
unearthly sounds, and making violent contortions
of their faces. They likewise pretend to he able
to discover stolen goods, and to cure diseases ;
they will even assist a jealous woman to destroy

PRACTICE OF ABORTION.

261

tlic life of another by incantations, making a little wax
image, and as that melts away so does the woman
fade whom she endeavours to destroy. She com-
pounds charms and philtres for the love-sick, and will
make some mysterious marks on a bit of paper, which,
placed near the sleeping-mat of man or woman, will
suffice to change the affections of the occupant of that
bed.

Many arc also adepts in the art of procuring
abortions, and practice has given them so much per-
fection that, by mechanical means, they succeed in
their designs without injuring the patient. They
drive a thriving trade in the capital, and prevent the
necessity of infanticide, which therefore very rarely
occurs. When it is considered that the rajahs part
with their concubines after the birth of one or two
children, it is not surprising that a favourite should
take any means to uphold her influence. They arc
never taught morality when young, and they follow
eagerly in the footsteps of their elders.

More than half the daughters of the nobility
cannot procure husbands, as they arc not allowed
to marry a person of inferior rank, and must re-
ceive a large marriage portion. There is very
little restraint on the conduct of these girls, none but
such as they place upon themselves, as it is quite im-
possible, with their slight houses, to prevent nocturnal
visits of lovers ; hut should they prove with child, it
is considered a great scandal. I believe Brunei to be
the most immoral city of which I have heard.

But to return to the conjurors. When they give
notice that it is their intention to receive visitors, as

262

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

the spirits will most probably enter into them, their
houses are crowded by young men and such women
as can get there, but they often confine their perform-
ances to some sleight of hand. I watched one do a
trick, and she did it cleverly. She began by telling
me she knew I disbelieved in her power, but she would
convince me, by cooking one of my own eggs from
simply breathing on it. I sent for one, and taking
it in her hands, she appeared suddenly to be possessed
by the spirit : she uttered unearthly sounds, pretended
to desire to attack some one who laughed at her, so
as to require two women to hold her back, until the
indignant comments of the bystanders caused the
scoffer to hide her face ; she then commenced putting
her features through such contortions as effectually
to prevent my watching her countenance, but I kept my
eyes upon her hands ; presently she became quiet, and
began breaking the egg ; it was certainly cooked ;
she carefully collected the shell, and then eat its
contents. She then breathed on the fragments of
shell, and almost immediately opened her hand with
my uncooked egg untouched.

Though it is not my object to give an account of
the Malays, I will enter slightly into the condition of
the women. In Brunei, the wives and daughters
of the sultan and of the nobles are much more con-
cealed than holds with the Malays in other parts of
Borneo, and one can only describe a harim from
hearsay. It is nothing like the gorgeous palaces of
Western Asia; the sultan’s house consists of a long1
building like a rough barn, raised on posts in the
water, and is perhaps seventy feet long by thirty in

BOI.D LOVERS.

263

breadth. It is one story high, though in the roof
are some rough attics : in this residence he keeps his
wives, his concubines, and his female slaves ; so
jealous is he that no one shall see them, that when
the house requires repairs, he will work with his own
hands rather than permit the labourers to enter the
inner rooms : the only man in whom he has con -
fidence is a very old decrepit pangeran, who assists
him in the work. He has seventy women confined in
this small space : his principal wife has a large room,
elegantly hung with silk hangings, and well matted ;
she is permitted luxuries denied to all hut three or
four favourite concubines. The other unfortunates
are allowed a little rice, salt, firewood, and water, and
once a year a cheap suit of clothes ; for everything
extra they must depend on their families or their lovers.

The palace is, as I have said, like a rough barn,
hut the flooring is simply slips of a palm stem, tied
together with rattans, and can be opened with facility ;
through the interstices every kind of refuse is thrown,
to be carried away by the current.

This offers temptation to the bold lover, who comes
in the dead of night, and by the signal of a white
rag hung through the floor, knows the coast is clear :
sometimes the girls get bold, and as they are all in
league to deceive the sultan, they can occasionally
leave the house without being discovered. The
daughters of the late Muda Hassim, in 1859, absented
themselves for three weeks and were not found out.
Sometimes it causes a tragedy. I will mention one
which occurred during my residence in the capital
(1858).

264

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO BROrER.

There were two sisters living in the sultan’s liarim,
the eldest was his concubine. He one day entered
her room and found her absent with her mother, and,
on inquiry, he heard that she was in the habit of
fetching both her daughters away for the purpose of
intrigue, as the sultan allowed them nothing but what
I have stated as the usual fare. He determined to
make an example : so when she brought back the
girls, he told her the pahgeran shabandar wanted to
speak to her ; she went, and, on entering the room
saw on the table the fatal instrument, the garotte ;
she guessed her fate, but fell on her knees before the
pahgeran and begged for her life, offering to confess
the names of those who had received her daughters
at their houses : upon this, pahgeran Mahomed, a
dissipated young man, struck her on the mouth with
his slipper, and, the signal being given, the assistants
slipped the skein of thread over her head, fixed the
board at the back of her neck, and turning a short
stick, strangled her, and then delivered the body to
her astonished husband.

The board used lias two holes in it, through which
the thick skein of brownish thread is passed, and
once the latter is round the neck, it is easy to tighten
it by the stick fixed behind.

The eldest daughter was expelled the harim, and
given in marriage to the sultan’s old favourite, while
the younger one was disgraced to slaves’ duties.

The pangeran tumanggong, discovering a woman
assisting his concubines from the house, slew her with
his own kris, in the presence of his wife.

The sultan’s wife and favourite concubines dress

TIIE INVERTED LANGUAGE.

265

well in European silks and satins, and possess an
abundance of gold ornaments, but tbc others are, as
I have said, poorly provided for.

The women delight in every practice that can
deceive their lords, and they have invented a system
of speaking to each other in what may be called an
inverted language — in Malay, “ Bhasa Balik.” It is
spoken in different ways : ordinary words have their
syllables transposed, or to each syllabic another one
is added. For “mari,” to come, they say, “ malah-
rilah ; ” they are constantly varying it, and girls often
invent a new system, only confided to their intimate
acquaintances ; if they suspect they arc understood
by others, they instantly change it.

As might be expected, the education of the women
is very much neglected; few can write, and none
spell correctly. I often had love-letters shown me
by amorous but ignorant swains, who were afraid
to trust the discretion of any native writer, and
they have invariably been ill-written and worse spelt ;
this, however, is not said in disparagement, as few of
the men can either read or write.

The women are fond of making vows, and to
that practice I am indebted for my only glimpse of
a Bornean harim. During my first expedition to
Molu, my boat snapped on a snag, and I was left
to return through the jungle. The report spread
that I wTas dead, and various vows were made ; among
others, the wives and daughters of some of the rajahs
made a vow, if I returned in safety, I should visit
them and be showyered over with yellow rice for good
luck’s sake. The pahgerans consented, thinking I was

266

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO BROPER.

dead ; but, on my safe return, the ladies insisted
upon carrying out their vow ; they were anxious to
see a white man within their walls.

The nobles came and asked me ; I at first declined,
hut, on being pressed, consented. The whole place
was very paltry ; about twenty middle-aged women
were present, while a crowd of young girls, half
hidden by a curtain, occupied the lower end of the
room. On my displaying the most perfect indiffer-
ence as to whether I saw them or not, they gradually
emerged. I observed no pretty faces, and constant
confinement to the house had rendered their skins of
a very light yellow. I am afraid we were mutually
disappointed, as the only remark I heard them make
about me was, “ How very dull his eyes are ; ” and
so they were compared to their flashing black ones.

Full of faults as the Bornean rajahs doubtless are,
oppressors of their subjects, and totally unfitted to
rule, yet they are, in my opinion, the most agreeable
natives I have ever met. As a companion, few
Europeans could be more interesting than was the
shabandar, the Makota of Keppel’s book, and “ the
serpent,” as he was popularly called. I never wearied
of his society, and always enjoyed the little picnics
to which he invited me. His death, which I have
related in my Limbang Journal, was tragic, though
he deserved his fate. They all display, in the most
exciting discussions, a propriety of behaviour and
jrcntleness of manner that wins those who have deal-

O

ings with them. Procrastination is their greatest
fault, and sometimes trying to the temper.

They are very tenacious of their dignity, and only

DECAY OF BRUNEI.

267

the royal family can use yellow ; and for a trader to
fly streamers or flags from the mast-head is a great
offence to the nobles. It used to be, and will pro-
bably be again after the present sultan’s death, a
punishable offence for a person of inferior rank to
pass the palace steps with his umbrella spread, or
to sit in the after-part of a boat, that being the
place for nobles. A man wearing yellow would be
punished, while even the slave girls may dress in
that colour. The distinctions of rank arc kept up
with great strictness, yet the sultan will talk to the
people with perfect familiarity, but they always reply
in a most respectful tone ; though during the even-
ing free conversation is encouraged.

The sultan and nobles deplore the decay of their
country, but cannot, or rather will not, understand
that it is their own unreflecting rapacity which
destroys the springs of industry.

There are no fixed impositions, but the aborigines
suffer from the exactions of all, until, they have told
me that, in despair, they are planting yearly less and
less, and trusting to the jungle for a subsistence.
The pi'ice of uncleaned rice has risen four hundred
per cent, during my experience of Brunei. This partly
arises from the ravages of the Ivayans, who have lessened
the agricultural population, and greatly narrowed the
area of cultivation ; and partly, as I have observed,
from the dependencies ceasing to yield so much to
the nobles, they are compelled to depend more on the
neighbouring tribes.

I have not yet mentioned the people who inhabit
the hills which surround the capital ; they are called

268

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

Kadayans, and arc evidently aborigines converted to
Islamism. It is a tradition among them that they
and the Perambat and Pablat sections of the city
inhabited by the fishermen were formerly Murnts, and
joined the Mahomedans about four hundred years ago.
In digging near the consulate, I found a large jar, with
the remains of hones and a skull, almost dissolved
by time, very similar to the ones used for the same
purpose by the Muruts of the present day. It is
supposed by the Kadayans to have been buried there
before their conversion.

As a rule, these hill-men are never oppressed ; a
few, however, who seem to have had claims over
them, originating in debts due by their ancestors,
were seized in April, 1861, by the widow of the late
sultan, and put in irons until some demands of hers
should be satisfied. The whole city was thrown into con-
fusion by this proceeding ; all the Kadayans assembled
under their chiefs, stopped the supplies of food, and
threatened an attack from the neighbouring hills ;
deputations of nobles waited on the lady, and begged
her to let go the men, hut she sturdily refused. For
three days every man was prepared to defend his
portion of the town ; business was suspended, and
fears and panics prevailed ; till at last her relations
gave way to the anger of the rest of the inhabitants,
and insisted upon her letting her prisoners go.

The Kadayans have great influence in the city, on
account of their agricultural pursuits ; they supply
large amounts of rice, and nearly all the fruit and
vegetables. I have wandered over their districts,
and never have I seen more lovely spots than are to

LABUAN.

269

be found at Upper Butil, Limapas, and in the inte-
rior of the Kadayan river. The groves of fruit-trees
are immense, and no idea can he formed of them,
unless we imagine our pear and apple trees of the
size of the most gigantic elms. They are generally
planted on the gentle slopes of low hills, and the
cool and well-shaded paths among them are dry and
pleasant to tread.

The Kadayans are devoted to the pahgeran tu-
manggong, and will not, I believe, consent to any
other noble succeeding to the present sultan. They
are not a warlike race, hut they are united. In
commercial affairs this may be especially noticed : a
meeting of their chiefs takes place, they settle the
price of rice, and none of their followers will swerve
from it.

About a thousand of these men have lately gone
over to our little colony of Labuan, to settle there as
planters, and the heavy forest is falling in all direc-
tions before them. Having mentioned this island, I
will make a few remarks upon it. Labuan possesses
one of the finest forests I have seen in Borneo, and is
admirably situated for three objects — to suppress
piracy, to influence the neighbouring countries, and to
increase commerce by many means. Among the last,
I may mention the numerous coal seams which arc
found in the island ; that they have not been yet
developed is no matter of surprise to those who are
familiar with the early management ; and that they
will be hereafter of the utmost importance is the
confident belief of those who are best acquainted
with the island. My own opinion is, that the working

270

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

will prove a most lucrative speculation, if proper care
be taken in the choice of those who are to conduct
the affairs of the new Labuan coal company.

No better spot could be chosen as one of the
stations for the telegraph wires on their way to
China. From Singapore, stated in round numbers,
to Sarawak is 400 miles ; to Labuan, 350 miles ; to
Manilla, 600 miles ; to Hong Kong, 600 miles more.
If Manilla be avoided, a station might be formed on
one of the isles off Palawan.

Labuan, managed by an officer who made himself
wTell acquainted with the character of the people inha-
biting the neighbouring countries, might, with a slight
support from the navy, exert great influence. I must
mention one good Labuan has already done : it has
changed the character of slavery. Formerly, the
Bornean masters could treat their dependants as
harshly as they pleased; now it is a common saying,
“ If we are not gentle towards our slaves, they will
run to Labuan.” In fact, latterly very little restraint
was laid on the freest intercourse with this island on
the part of the masters, as far as concerned the
males ; but the females they tried by every means to
prevent leaving. Yet hundreds of women visit
Labuan, and can stay there if they please.

The trade of our colony is small, though it is
increasing, while that of Brunei is rapidly decreasing,
and recent arrangements will tend to accelerate its
fall. I should mention that there are many districts
in the neighbourhood of Labuan in which pepper is
cultivated, and this produce is slowly increasing in
quantity in the market ; but could tbe Governor of

METHOD OF COLLECTING CAMPHOR.

271

Labuan have the means at his disposal to influence
the neighbouring coast, the pepper cultivation would
rapidly advance. It is now grown in the districts of
Kalias, Bundu, Tanah Merah, Qualla Lama, Mem-
bakut, Papar, Mengkabong, and Tawaran.

Sago at present is the principal export, though
some valuable products, as white birds’ nests, cam-
phor, wax, rattans, and occasionally pearls arc brought
from the north. No place could be better situated
than Labuan to draw to it the trade of the Sulu
archipelago and of the north-east coast of Borneo,
and its doing so will depend on the amount of influ-
ence it is permitted to exercise.

It is a curious circumstance, that the natives of
many of the districts to the north of Labuan assert
that before civil strife and pirates drove trade from
their coasts, they used to supply the Chinese and
Javanese markets with a large amount of cotton.
This plant is still cultivated, though to a very limited
extent.

I have referred to the very fine forest which clothes
the surface of Labuan : among the forest trees are the
camphor and the damar ; the former produces the
valuable Kapur barus of commerce, and is a very hand-
some tree, rising in a fine stem ninety or a hundred
feet before it throws out a branch, and then presents a
well-shaped head, with dense foliage. Its timber is
lasting, and is much liked for planks and beams of
houses. In the forests of Labuan I have often come
across fine trees felled by the natives in search of the
camphor, as this product can only be obtained by
destroying the tree, as it exists in a concrete form in

2/2

TIIE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

the interstices of the trunk. But I have heard
natives say, that occasionally they cut down one
which has a decayed portion, and in this they find
the finest camphor. It is possible that these decayed
portions may arise from former seekers cutting holes
in the tree to discover whether there were sufficient
camphor to render it worth while to fell the tree, a
practice they carry on to the present day. An oil is
also collected from this tree, which rubbed over a
chest of drawers will effectually prevent the invasion
of insects.

This method of obtaining the camphor is very
wasteful compared to the way gamboge is collected.
I have never seen an account given of it, so I will
introduce it here : — The tree is found in Kambodia,
the province of Chantibun in Siam, the islands on
the eastern coast of the Gulf of Siam, and the
southern part of Cochin China. The small plants
which were brought to Bangkok were woody, with
thick ovate leaves ; the tree in full growth is large,
measuring often five feet in circumference, and rising
to a considerable height. At the commencement of
the rainy season, the gamboge seekers start for the
forest in search of the trees, which are occasionally
plentiful. Having found a full-grown one, they make a
spiral incision in the back round half its circumference,
and place a joint of bamboo to catch the sap, which
percolates slowly from it for many months. When it
first issues from the tree, it looks like a yellowish
fluid, which after passing through a viscous state,
hardens into the gamboge of commerce with a crystal-
like fracture. The flowers of the tree are said to

METHOD OF COLLECTING GAMBOGE.

273

resemble those of the egg-plant, and the fruit is
small and globular. The time of gathering it depends
much on the fancy of the people, as some declare that
it is injurious to seek it in wet weather, and prefer
the verv driest months. The trees grow both in the
valleys and on the mountains, and an average one will
yield three joints of bamboo, twenty inches in length,
by one and a half in diameter. The tree appears to
suffer no injury if the gamboge be collected every
other year, hut if it he tapped each season, it shortens
its life. Like every other nation, the Kamhodians
are fond of adding adulterations, and mix with it
rice, flour and sand, while others pulverise the hark,
to add to its weight ; hut this last operation is soon
found out, as it imparts to the article a greenish tinge.

The damar trees in Lahuan arc remarkably fine. I
have seen one measured one hundred and twenty feet
to the first branch, and eighteen feet in circumfer-
ence above twenty feet from the ground. Lahuan
is also stocked with excellent trees for spars. I may
add that petroleum is found in considerable quantities
floating on the surface of water in the jungle ; hut I
think no examination has been made as to the pro-
bable yield of these oil-springs.

Before concluding my observations on Lahuan, I
may remark it possesses a very excellent harbour, of
easy approach. The great success of our colony
will depend, however, on its yield of coal.

The coal-fields of Borneo are as extensive as the
island. It is reported in Maludu Bay ; found in
Gaya Island ; is everywhere discoverable on the
mainland opposite Lahuan; has been traced in Baram,

vol. ir. 18

274

TIIE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

in Bintulu, through the Sarawak districts to Banjcr-
masin on the southern coast. They must some day
prove of the greatest importance.

Continuing my notice of the capital, I may explain
that the whole direct revenue of the sultan does not
exceed 2,500/. a year, except what he may obtain in
produce from his dependent tribes, which scarcely
supports the current expenses of his household.

The Brunei government possesses no armed force
beyond the power of calling out the population as
militia, who rarely respond to the call, as they are
neither fed nor paid during their time of service, and
are generally required to perform acts repugnant
to their real interests. It possesses neither war boats
nor police, and is incapable of organizing an expedi-
tion to attack a neighbouring district, and is, without
exception, one of the most contemptible semblances
of power that ever existed. As I have said before,
it has the name of government, but not the reality.

Crime is unpunished, if committed by a relative or
a follower of a high noble, as no one will act against
him for fear of the enmity of his chief. There is
a man in Brunei, named Sirudin Buhgkul, who is the
most notorious thief in the capital. He lives in very
good style on the result of his achievements, and is
admitted into the best society. He is never punished,
as he is a follower of the chief minister, the pahge-
ran bandhara. He appears to be clever, as he
manages to quiet the dogs, and has never been taken
in the act of robbery ; in fact, few would dare to
attempt to seize a man naked to the waist, well oiled,
and carrying a drawn kris in his hand. When in

MAKOTA AND THE FIRE.

275

want of funds, he makes a visit to the different shops
to inspect ; he is always treated with a kind of familiar
deference, and the Chinese are kept in a state of
nervousness till his coup has come off. Petty thefts
are common, but few extensive robberies ; and yet
it is not difficult to get into leaf-houses, particularly
of the Chinese, who sleep heavily after their opium
and spirits.

It is not surprising that these men occasionally
commit crimes when an example is set by the highest
officers of state. Makota, who was in the habit
of getting into debt, and seldom troubling him-
self about payment, owed a Chinese trader, Si
Panjang, a considerable sum of money. The constant
dunning of this creditor at last produced a quarrel,
and the Chinese used some expressions which Makota
considered very insulting ; so next morning he sent
the Bindari, one of his officers, to affix a notice to Si
Panjang’s door, giving notice that he was no longer
under the protection of government. Five days after
a fire burst out in that dwelling, which not only con-
sumed the trader’s house, hut extended so as to burn
down half the Chinese quarter, and the loss was
estimated at 20,000/. Though long suspected, the
fact was not made clear till after Makota’s death.
The fire took place in July, 1856, two months before
I took up my residence in Brunei.

Thefts and robberies are nominally punished by
cutting off the hand, but this penalty has fallen into
disuse since the advent of the English. There are,
however, two men to he seen about the town who
have lost a hand as a punishment. Sometimes a fine

18—2

2/6 THE KINGDOM OF BpRNEO PROPER.

is inflicted, but generally the culprit is let off after
a few days in the stocks.

It is an interesting fact, that the sultan and many
of the older men always fix an event by saying this
occurred before or after the fall of ashes, referring to
that awful eruption which took place in April, 1815,
when the mountain of Timboro in Sambawa burst
forth and covered every country near with a fall of
ashes. Sir Stamford liaffies has given a graphic
account of it in his History of Java , and I only
mention the fact now, as Brunei, where some of the
ashes fell, must be above nine hundred miles from the
volcano. At Sarawak it is also constantly referred
to.

I have described in a previous chapter the appear-
ance of the river, but I have not mentioned that
here I have most often heard the singing or humming-
fish, which sticks to the bottom of the boats, and
produces a sound something like that of a Jew’s-harp
struck slowly, though sometimes it increases in loud-
ness so as to resemble the full sound and tones of an
organ. My men have pointed me out a fish about
four inches long as the author of the music. It is
marked with alternate stripes of black and yellow
across the back.

They have a curious method of catching prawns
in this river : a man sits in the stern of a canoe,
a little on one side, so as to make its edge towards
the bank almost on a level with the water, and but
a foot from the mud. On the same side he has an
immense comb fastened at the stern, which, at an angle,
stretches beyond the bows of the canoe, and sweeps the

TUBA FISHING.

277

bank. The prawns congregating at the very edge
of the mud, make a spring to avoid the teeth of the
comb ; and in doing so, nearly always fall into the
boat. The comb is simply a long bamboo, with holes
drilled into one side, into which are inserted pieces
of thin bamboo or wood about two feet long at the
farther end, and gradually lessening as they approach
the fisherman.

I may also mention that the Malays arc very fond
of the following sport. They collect many hundred
bundles of the roots of the tuba-plant, and beat them
out in their canoes, keeping them wet, and permitting
the juice, which has an intoxicating property, to flow
into the bottom of their boats. When they have
sufficient, they threw it into the water at the mouths
of the rivers just at the turn of the flood-tide ; and
the fish, feeling its effects, either rise to the surface
completely intoxicated, or, in the case of the large
ones, sufficiently stupefied to be easily speared. It is
an exciting sport when several hundred men in light
canoes arc engaged in it. It is a superstition that while
they arc occupied in this amusement, should a boat
pass the mouth of the river, and the crew beat the
water with their paddles, the tuba would lose its
intoxicating power.

Until late years, the general use of money was
unknown in the capital. When I first visited it,
ordinary commercial transactions were carried on in
pieces of gray shirting, valued at 12.?. 6d. ; of
nankin, valued at 10rf. ; and of bits of iron, worth
about a farthing : the last were manufactured by
cutting off pieces of an inch long from a bar of

2 78

THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.

English iron, the common size of which was an inch
and a half in breadth by half an inch in thickness.
Now, neither the nankin nor the iron circulates, their
places being taken by English copper coin and China
cash. The gray shirting still holds its place, but its
value is fallen, and lately it has ranged from 6s. to 8s.
The Brunei government, to prevent the constant
disputes that arose, made it a legal tender at 6s. 8 d.
Mexican dollars are now becoming plentiful.

One other article is also much used as money, and
that is brass guns. In buying and selling you con-
stantly hear, “ I will give so many pounds, or hundred-
weights, of gun-metal.”

The Borneans are famous for their manufacture of
brass guns, which are constantly cast in their frail
houses to the imminent danger of the neighbourhood.
They principally turn out small wall-pieces, and now
trust much for their metal to selected Chinese brass
cash. The Malavs are clever at this work : a Java-
nese has lately cast an excellent 12-pounder brass
howitzer for the Sarawak Government. Sulu used
to he very famous for its krises ; now Brunei is
attempting to rival her, and has produced some very
handsome weapons. In both places they prefer the
iron that is taken off the bales of English cotton
goods, as the toughest and the best.

The custom my brother Bayle mentions in his
Levantine Family of preserving an article for years,
rather than lower its price, is very common in Brunei.
Jcludin Hitam, a rich trader, purchased, in his younger
days, a large quantity of camphor, white birds’ nests,
and pearls, and received, in payment of some other

MAKOTA AND 1113 GOLD.

279

goods, several hundred pieces of gray shirting, at
12s. 6d. The breaking out of the Chinese war of
1841 lowered the price of all articles intended for
that market. lie tried to sell at former rates, but
no one would buy ; he refused to lower his price, so
kept the goods till his death in 1859. On examining
them it was found that the gray shirtings were rotten,
and had to be thrown away, while all his other goods
were sold for half their former value. A native
always asks a higher price than he intends to take, as
he knows his customer will “ tawar,” or cheapen.

I may add that on the death of Jeludin Hitam the
sultan declared himself his heir, and succeeded to all
his property, which, however, did not amount to half
that was expected, as it was whispered the daughter
concealed a large amount of the gold. When Makota’
was slain, the sultan took possession of his property,
hut the most active search failed in finding any gold,
though it was well known that he had been accus-
tomed to invest all his money in moidores. But the
fact was, Makota did not trust his wife, and therefore
always carried his wealth about with him in a box,
and after his death it was secreted by one of his sons
who happened to be in the same district at the time
his father was killed.

280

CHAPTER XI.

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

First Visit — Appearance of the Country — Scenery — Lovely Isles —
Turtle — Method of Securing their Eggs — Their Enemies — Fish
— The Dugong — Method of Capturing them — Graves of En-
glishmen at Po Point — First Evening in Borneo — A Welcome
to the Rajah — Boats — Salute and Manning Yards — The Muara-
tabas Entrance — The River — The Town of Kuching — Sunset
• — Arrival — A noisy Procession — Extent of Sarawak — A well-
watered Country — The Rejang — Extent of fertile Soil adapted to
Sugar — Its Inhabitants — Different Races and Tribes — Popula-
tion— Kuching, the Capital — Increase — Trade — Sago districts —
Cotton — Seed sent by the Cotton Supply Association — Imported
Labour required — Increased Production — Inferior Cultivation
—Soil adapted to most Tropical Productions — Water commu-
nication— Minerals — Coal, Antimony, and Gold — Indications
of other Minerals — Former Condition of the Country — Difficul-
ties of Management — Forced Trade — Comfortable Position
of the Dayaks — Influence of New System on the Malays —
Distant Voyages — Remarkable Honesty — Anecdote — System of
Government — An Unteachable Chief — Sons of Patinggi Ali —
Their Good Conduct — Effect of Associating the Natives in the
Government — The System introduced into all the Dependencies
— Effect of Sir James Brooke’s Government — Anecdote of an
old Chief — Gradual Development — Necessity for Support —
The Chinese an Industrious and Saving Nation — Soundness in
the System of Government — England with a Chinese Colony —
Future of Borneo — Chinese amalgamate with Native Popula-
tion— Female Emigration from China — Administration of Jus-
tice— The Sarawak Courts — Character of the Malays.

Sarawak and its dependencies next claim my atten-
tion, and I will give an account of my first visit to
that place, as the notes I then made are more likely
to present a true picture than any written subse-

OVERNMENT HOUSE — SARAW/

FIRST VISIT TO SARAWAK.

281

qucntly. On August 31, 1848, we came in sight of
Borneo ; it was a dull and misty day, and the shores
were not clearly visible, but the next morning it was
bright and showed us in all its perfection the
lovely country that skirts the shore between Datu
and Sipang points. At first it appeared a confused
mass of mountains, but the eye soon began to distin-
guish its varied features. The massive and lofty
range of Poe bounded the scene to the westward,
while the Matang occupied the centre of the picture,
and the peak of Santubong and the Sipang hills
completed it to the eastward. Between these arc
many lower ranges, and beyond could be seen various
ridges and single mountains forming a background.

Though these high lands first attract the eye, yet it
rests with greater pleasure on the beautiful valleys
between, and none more beautiful than that at the
foot of the Poe mountains, which stretches as far as
the eye can reach, and imperceptibly mingles with the
neighbouring hills. Taken as a whole, it is a very
beautiful bay, and lovely are the isles scattered about
it. Every traveller is enthusiastic about the appear-
ance of these little gems, which rise verdant from the
water’s edge to the very summit ; or rendered more
bright by a narrow beach of shining yellow sand that
skirts the shores.

The first two arc called Talang Talang, and
on these are collected the turtles’ eggs. From the
larger a broad sandv flat extends to the southward,
and on this, during the prevalence of the south-
west monsoon the turtles lay their eggs. There
are men on the look-out near, and as soon as the

282

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

animals have dug holes, deposited the eggs, and care-
fully covered them over, the watchers stick little flags
in the sand to mark the spots. In the morning they
open them out and procure immense supplies of these
eggs, which are exported to all the neighbouring
countries. Though the turtles do occasionally fre-
quent the surrounding isles, it is only here that they
are plentiful.

The Malays are eager in the search, yet for-
tunately very many nests escape their rapacity. But
the dangers to the turtle do not end here : when
the little things burst up from the sand, they find
enemies in every direction. The voracious kites
soaring above pounce on their defenceless prey, even
the land crab seizes them and bears them away, and
when the remainder escape to the water, hundreds of
sharks and other voracious fish are there to devour
them ; it is astonishing that so many elude their
enemies. A turtle’s egg tastes to me like a stale and
fishy duck’s egg. The sandv beaches of these isles
are always to the southward, as they are not exposed
to the fierce blasts of the north-east monsoon. The
next islets near the Santubong entrance of the
Sarawak river, arc Sampadien and the two Satangs.
On all are at present extensive groves of cocoa-nut
trees, which form a marked contrast to the neighbour-
ing jungle.

It is very curious that the fish should frequent this
bay so very irregularly. Some years the supplies are
ample, at other seasons it scarcely pays to search for
them. The dugong, called by the Malays duyong,
is occasionallv secured off the small islands in this

GRAVES OF ENGLISHMEN.

283

bay ; there is a famous fisherman in Sarawak, named
Pa Sipi, who is expert in all accomplishments apper-
taining to his craft, and I have heard the natives say
that when a duyong is seen, he used cautiously to ap-
proach it, and being always the foremost man, he
hurled his fishing spear at it, and very shortly after,
if he were obliged to let go his hold of the weapon,
the animal would rise again to the surface. The
fishing spear is called a sarampang, and is usually made
with a treble-pronged iron point, fitted loosely into
the end of the spear, and secured by a stout lashing
of rattans to the wood. When the iron has entered
into the animal, it comes loose from the shaft of the
spear, which is then only held to it by the rattan
rope, and it would be impossible for an animal thus
encumbered to escape far. Pa Sipi brought us once
a very fine duyong, which measured nearly eight feet in
length, and its flesh tasted very much like coarse beef.

We moved along under easy sail, and anchored
near the Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river.
The land here is very bold, particularly Sipang and
Po points.

We sent a boat up the Santubong as we passed the
entrance, to give notice at the town of our arrival, and
in the evening we landed for a walk in a deep nook to
the westward of Point Po ; here, just above the sandy
beach, were the graves of several Englishmen, among
others of Lieutenant Mathews, of H.M.S. Iris: a simple
granite stone marked the spot ; the wild pigs, however,
had desecrated the graves and overturned the tablet ;
so the latter was subsequently removed to the church-
yard in Sarawak. We amused ourselves about the

284

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

edges of the forest in searching for a gcod watering-
place. To me this evening was inexpressibly delightful,
as I wandered about this quiet pretty spot, and thought
how agreeable an introduction it was to Bornean life.
After dark we waded to our boats, and the crews en-
livened the evening by singing in chorus till we
neared the ship. Twenty deep voices sounded well
over this still and starlit sea. For the first time I
saw some Lingga Dayaks tc-day, and as they happened
to be dressed as Malays, my first impression was that
it would he difficult to distinguish between them.

About ten o’clock the following morning native war-
boats commenced issuing from the Muaratabas, and
sailing towards us. They were the Sarawak people
come to welcome back their English rajah. There
were twenty long light war prahus with tapering
masts and lateen sails, ornamented with flags and
streamers, and all the chiefs and crews were dressed
in gala costume. The principal men came on hoard,
and it was interesting to observe the warmth they
showed to their adopted chief. Some of the Sarawak
men were striking-looking, hut the nobles from
the capital were the most insignificant creatures I
had ever seen ; they were only remarkable for the
gold lace with which their jackets were profusely
ornamented, and that they were very gentlemanly,
and more polished in manner than their provincial
neighbours.

About one o’clock Sir James Brooke left the
Meander under a salute, and the manning of the yards;
the latter has always a very pretty effect, and rather
surprised our native visitors. When the firing was

SARAWAK RIVER.

285

over, the blue jackets gave three hearty cheers, and
swarmed down the rigging. Now was the turn of the
war-boats, and they kept up a desultory fire for an
hour.

The Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river is
a very fine one, and has a depth of three fathoms and
a half at the very lowest water at spring tides ; the
contrast of the hanks is striking : to the right a high
hold shore and pretty isolated hills ; to the left a low
flat plain with mountains showing in the distance.

We pulled up with the flood tide, our way being
enlivened by races between the native prahus, but the
frigate’s barge had no chance against them ; near the
entrance is a rock that marks the watering-place; it
was here that Sir James made his first acquaintance
with the Davak pirates, who attacked a Malay prahu
under the very guns of the Royalist.

With few exceptions the banks of the Sarawak
river are uninteresting; for many miles nothing but
swampy ground and low jungle of mangrove trees and
nipa palms, with occasional glimpses of distant moun-
tains. Near the town, however, it improves, the land
becoming dry and bearing heavy jungle ; between the
mouth and the town there were only a few fishing
huts, and not a sign of cultivation. Evening was
closing in as we approached Kuching, the capital of
Sarawak, and the sun set brilliantly behind the Matang
range, gilding as it disappeared as wild and pictu-
resque a scene as I had ever witnessed. Our barge
led the way up the broad reach, and was followed by
the twenty war prahus, and dozens of Dayak and other
boats that had joined the procession : — not a decorous

286

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

Lord Mayor’s pull on the river, but in the utmost
confusion, amid gun-firing, gong-beating, racing, wild
and frantic yells of delight, shouts of laughter and of
anger, as one prahu ran into another in their eager-
ness to be in the foremost rank. As we rounded
the last point we were surprised to find the whole
town brilliantly illuminated, and as all the houses are
built on the water’s edge, which reflected back the
lights above, the effect was very fine. Crowds were
assembled to witness our arrival, and yell, and
answering yell, increased the confusion. Having
described my first arrival at Sarawak, I will proceed
to give a short account of its present position.

Sarawak, including its dependencies, extends from
Cape Datu to Ividorong Point, a coast line of about
three hundred miles, and presents every variety of
surface, from the low fertile soil skirting the river’s
hanks to the lofty mountains which rise in every direc-
tion throughout the various districts.

It is one of the best watered countries in the world,
possessing several rivers of the first class, as the
Rejang, the Sarawak, and the Batang Lupar ; and
many of the second, as the Samarahan, the Sadong,
the Seribas, the Kalaka, the Egan, a branch of the
Rejang, and the Bintulu ; rivers of the third class
are also numerous, as the Lundu, the Mato, the Oya,
and the Muka.

The last three, though small, are still very im-
portant, as they run through the great sago-producing
districts, possessing forests of that palm, which are as
yet perfectly unexplored, having only lately been
ceded to Sarawak.

EXTENT OF SARAWAK.

287

The finest river, however, is the Ilejang, which has
a deep entrance, not less than five fathoms at high
water, and, when inside the bar, never carries less,
for above one hundred and thirty miles. A geogra-
phical description of the country, howTevcr, is not
necessary, as I have in previous chapters given an
account of the principal districts, nearly all of which
I visited in the course of my tours.

Sarawak possesses an immense extent of fertile soil,
a very large amount being composed of alluvial
deposit stretching for miles on either side of the
hanks of the Samarahan, the Sadong, the Batang
Lupar, and nearly all the rivers before named.

Much of the soil is especially adapted for sugar
cultivation, being of a similar quality to that on the
hanks of the Pontianak, which I have been informed
by Dutch officers and planters has been found far
superior for sugar cultivation to the best in Java.
In fact, nothing hut the want of labour has prevented
the extensive cultivation of the cane in the Pontianak
districts : Chinese could be introduced with facility,
hut these people have already given the Dutch so
much trouble, as to render the Netherlands govern-
ment very jealous of any increase in their numbers.

But before entering on the subject of products, I
must briefly enumerate the various tribes speaking
different languages who are now subject to Sarawak.

The Malays are scattered along the hanks of almost
every river and creek, but the largest number is
assembled at the capital, Kuching.

The Chinese, of whom I shall treat hereafter, are
principally found in Sarawak, though a few hundreds

283

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

are now working gold on the Batang Lupar, and
traders abound at every place where profit can be
obtained.

The Indian races are represented by very few
members.

The Land Dayaks occupy a portion of Lundu, with
the entire interior of Sarawak, Samarahan, and
Sadong.

The Sea Dayaks include the Sibuyaus, who are
scattered through the various districts, and the inhabi-
tants of the Batang Lupar, the Seribas, Kalaka, and the
branch streams on the left-hand bank of the Rejang.

The Milanaus occupy the mouths of the Rejang,
the Oya, the Muka, the Bintulu, and various lesser
streams.

The tattooed races, as the Kanowits, Pakatans,
Punans, and others, live towards the interior of the
districts lying between the Rejang and the Bintulu,
and border on the Kayans, who occupy the Balui
country, as the interior of the Bintulu and the Rejang
is called.

All these groups of tribes speak separate languages,
and each has also various dialects.

It is very difficult to obtain even an approximate
estimate of the amount of population, hut I will state
it at the most moderate rate.

The home districts, as Lundu, Sarawak, Samarahan,

Sadong, and Sibuyau, may be reckoned at . . 80,000

The Sea Dayak districts, including Batang Lupar, Seribas,

Kalaka, and those on the left bank of the Itejang, at . 120,000
The districts lying between Itejang Mouth and Bintulu . 40,000

Total

. 240,000

KUCIIING THE CAPITAL.

289

In stating these numbers I am convinced that I am
very much underrating them, as the more inquiries
we make the thicker appears the population of the
Sea Dayak districts.

The capital of Sarawak is Kuching, and, considering
the circumstances of the country, the rise of this free
port has been rapid. When Sir James Brooke first
reached the spot, there were few inhabitants except
the Malay rajahs and their followers, who subse-
quently for the most part removed to Brunei, the
residence of the sultan. I saw Kuching in the year
1848, when it was but a small place, with few Chinese
or Kling shops, and perhaps not over 6,000 Malay
inhabitants ; there was little trade, the native prahus
were small, and I saw some few of them. The jungle
surrounded the town and hemmed in the houses, and
the Chinese gardeners had scarcely made an impression
on the place. As confidence was inspired, so the
town increased, and now, including the outlying
parishes, its population numbers not less than 15,000.

The commerce of the place has kept pace with it,
and from a rare schooner finding its way over to
return with a paltry cargo, the trade has risen till an
examination of the books convinced me that it was
in I860 above 250,000/. of exports and imports.

The articles constituting the exports are for the
most part the produce of the jungle ; the principal
exception is sago, which is imported from the dis-
tricts to the east of Cape Sirik, to be manufactured
at Kuching into the sago-pearl and flour of commerce.
The trade in this article has for many years been
injured by the constant disturbances, ending in a

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290

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

state of chronic civil war, which desolated the pro-
ducing districts. Now, however, that they have been
ceded to Sarawak, and a firm government established,
a great development should take place in this branch
of trade.

An article which might become of great value is
cotton : it is cultivated among many of the tribes
residing within the Sarawak territories, particularly
by the Dayaks of Seribas and Sakarang, who manu-
facture from it a durable cloth. The Cotton Supply
Association is sending out some Egyptian seed,
which, if it arrive in good condition, may tend to
increase the produce. I am convinced, however, that
no cultivation will have great success in Borneo which
does not at first depend on imported labour, and as
China is near, the supply could be easily and regu-
larly obtained.

The amount of rice produced will also greatly
depend on imported labour ; at present the natives
but rarely export any, and during some seasons
scarcely produce sufficient for the consumption of the
people. There is one thing to be observed, however,
that as the country is becoming year by year more
settled, the inhabitants in the same ratio give greater
attention to acquiring wealth. The Sea Dayaks
are very acquisitive, and would soon imitate the
Chinese methods of cultivation. I have elsewhere
remarked that the agriculture to the north of the
capital is far superior to anything found in Sarawak
or its neighbourhood, and this has most probably
arisen from the large number of Chinese who formerly
inhabited that country.

FERTILITY OF SARAWAK.

291

The use of the plough, the harrow, or the buffalo
in cultivation is, except by report, entirely unknown
in Sarawak ; the natives will, I believe, be much
surprised at the results produced by a good English
plough, which is about to be tried on some fields of
sugar-cane in the neighbourhood of Kuching, and it
may do much good by showing them the methods
employed by other nations. At present the Malays
and Dayaks use no other instruments than a long
chopper, an axe, and a pointed stick.

The soil and the varied heights on the hill-sides,
would render Sarawak a fine country for coffee ;
which grows freely, and so do pepper, tapioca, arrow-
root, and almost every product cultivated in the
neighbouring islands ; but these things are not yet
grown in sufficient quantities to render them worth
mentioning as articles of export Of the jungle pro-
duce I may name the principal : they are fine timber
of many varieties, gutta-percha, india-rubber, wax,
and rattans, and the last are to be obtained in the
very greatest abundance and of the best quality in
the districts lately ceded by the sultan to the govern-
ment of Sarawak.

Sarawak has a very great advantage over many
countries, having water communication from the far
interior, down to her coasts, and inner channels com-
municating with many of the outlying districts.

The mineral products known to exist in sufficient
quantities to be worth working are not numerous ;
they are coal, antimony, and gold. Coal seams have
long been known to exist, but in situations that
necessitated a considerable outlay ; within the last

19— 2

292

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

few months, however, coal has been discovered close
to the water’s edge in the districts lately ceded, but I
have not yet heard of the result of the examinations
which have just been made. Antimony of the best
quality can be procured in sufficient quantities to
supply any demand, and a new mine has been secured
to the Sarawak government by the cession of
Bintulu.

Gold is only worked by the Chinese, who wash the
surface earth in a way which I will afterwards describe.
No deep sinkings have been attempted, nor has quartz
yet been discovered in large quantities, and it is not
likely to be while nine-tenths of the country are still
clothed with forest.

Indications of many minerals exist, but until found
in greater quantities they are scarcely worth referring
to, except to encourage a careful examination of the
mountain and hilly districts. Sufficient silver has
however been found to render it probable that a mine
exists not far from the Bidi antimony works. The
Dutch beyond the border are said to be working a
copper mine to great profit ; and in Sarawak indi-
cations of that mineral, as well as of lead, have been
several times discovered : but no great importance can
be attached to them at present. Manganese and
arsenic have been found in considerable quantities,
but they are not yet worked.

The most remarkable thing connected with Sara-
wak is the change which has come over the aborigines ;
from all the accounts I could gather they were twenty-
five years ago in a much more miserable condition
than the Muruts and Bisayas in the neighbourhood

FORMER CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. 2Q3

of the capital. The country was in a state of com-
plete anarchy, and Malays were fighting against
Malays and Dayaks against Dayaks. Even before
the civil war broke out the condition of the latter
was miserable in the extreme ; they were exposed to
every exaction, their children were taken from them,
their villages attacked and often sacked by the Seribas
and Sakarang, and hunger approaching to famine
added to their troubles.

Even when Sir James Brooke succeeded to the
government and peace was restored, it took years
to eradicate the belief, founded on long established
practice, that the Dayaks were persons to be plun-
dered by every means. When it could not be done
openly, it was carried on by a system of forced trade.
Sir James Brooke’s attention was constantly directed
to this subject, and he found that as long as the
Malay chiefs were paid their salaries by receiving half
the rice-tax, some of them had an excuse for con-
tinuing the old practice. I have mentioned the tours
of inspection undertaken under his direction by his
nephew, Captain Brooke ; shortly after these were
concluded a new system was introduced, and the
chiefs had their salaries paid to them in money.
Since which time few complaints have been made by
the Dayaks.

As far as material comfort adds to the happiness of
man, the Dayaks have reason to be thankful : what-
ever they earn, they enjoy ; a tax of four shillings on
every family is the amount levied on them by govern-
ment: after that is paid they are free from every
exaction. Not only have they the produce of their

294

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

industry, but the wealth derived from their forests
of fruit-trees, a market for which can always be
found among the Chinese and Malays. Many of the
caves likewise produce the edible bird’s nest, which is
another source of profit.

The Malays, however, have benefited equally with
the Dayaks by the change of system. Formerly the
chiefs employed a crowd of relations and followers to
collect their taxes and to oppress the aborigines ; and,
as at Brunei now, if the master asked for a bushel of
rice, the man demanded two more for himself. The
system had a debasing influence on all ; no doubt
many suffered a little by the change, but as a rule
all these men turned to legitimate trade, as soon as
they found that to oppress the Dayaks entailed fines
and punishments.

The impetus given was great, trading prahus were
built, and voyages undertaken which their fathers had
not thought of. Singapore, Java, the Malay Penin-
sula, and even a portion of Sumatra were visited.
This brought wealth and increased activity, which was
shown in the improved dwellings, the larger prahus,
the gayer dresses, and the amount of gold ornaments
that became common among their women.

There is one thing I must particularly mention,
the remarkable honesty shown by these traders in
all their intercourse with Europeans. An English-
man, who greatly facilitated their commercial trans-
actions by loans of money at a rate of interest which
in the East was considered remarkably moderate, told
me that, in all his experience, he had only found
one Malav who attempted to cheat him. He never

REMARKABLE HONESTY.

295

demanded receipts, but simply made an entry in his
book, and his loans with that one exception were all
repaid him.

He told me a story of a Malay trader that sin-
gularly illustrates their character. The man borrowed
a small sum and went on a voyage ; in a month he
returned, stating he had lost both prahu and cargo,
and asked to be entrusted with double the amount of
his former debt ; it was given him. Again he returned,
having been wrecked close to the mouth of the river.
He came to this Englishman and clearly explained
his misfortune, but added — “ You know I am an
honest man, disasters cannot always happen to me,
lend me sufficient to go on another voyage, and I will
repay all I owe you.” My informant said he hesitated,
but at last lent him the whole amount demanded.
The trader was away three months, and his smiling
face, when he came back to his creditor, showed he
had been successful ; he paid off the principal portion
of the debt, and afterwards cleared off the remainder,
and was, when I heard the story, one of the most
flourishing traders in Sarawak. I thought the anec-
dote was honourable to both, and illustrates the kindly
feeling that exists in that country between the Euro-
pean and native.

This confidence, however, was the growth of some
years, and the result of the system of government
which I will now describe. In treating of the
capital, I have shown the practice established there.
In all the former dependencies of Brunei there were
local chiefs who administered the internal affairs of
their own districts. In Sarawak there were origi-

296 SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

nally three, and that number Sir James Brooke con-
tinued in their employment, and permitted and en-
couraged them to take part in everything connected
with the government of the country, obtaining their
consent to the imposition of any new tax or change
in the system of levying the old, consulting them
on all occasions and allowing their local know-
ledge to guide him in those things with which they
were necessarily better acquainted than he could
possibly be.

It was not to be expected that his teaching and
influence should suddenly change these men, accus-
tomed to almost uncontrolled sway, into just and
beneficent rulers, and he failed in moulding the
datu patinggi, the principal chief. As long as Sir
James Brooke was himself present in Sarawak, he
could keep him tolerably straight ; but no amount of
liberality could prevent him oppressing the Dayaks
on every possible occasion. His rapacity increasing,
he took bribes in his administration of justice, and it
was at last found necessary to remove him. The
third chief behaved much better, and the second,
patinggi Ali, was killed during one of Captain
Keppel’s expeditions.

The last named left many sons, two of whom
would have adorned any situation in life ; the eldest,
the late bandhar of Sarawak, was a kind, just, and
good man, respected in his public capacity, and
beloved in all social intercourse : his only fault was,
a certain want of decision, partly caused by a rapid
consumption that carried him off about two years
since. His next brother succeeded him, and appears

NATIVES ASSOCIATED IN TIIE GOVERNMENT. 297

to have all his brother’s good qualities, with remark-
able firmness of character. In fact, a generation is
springing up, with new ideas and more enlarged
views, who appear to appreciate the working of their
present government, and have a pride in being con-
nected with it.

By associating these men in the administration,
and thus educating them in political life, and by
setting the example of a great equality in social
intercourse, Sir James Brooke laid the foundation of
a government which stood a shock that many of his
best friends expected would prove fatal. I mean
the Chinese insurrection. None of the predicted
results have followed. Trade and revenue have
both actually increased, and a much better system of
management has been introduced.

The example set in the capital is followed in all
the dependent districts, and the local rulers arc
always associated with the European in the govern-
ment. The effect has been to prevent any jealousy
arising ; and the contempt of all natives, which
appears a part of our creed in many portions of our
empire, is not felt in Sarawak. Nothing appears
more striking to those who have resided long in
Sarawak than the extraordinary change which ap-
pears to have been effected in the character of the
people, and also in that of individuals. There is no
doubt that Sir James Brooke was working in soil
naturally good, or these results could not have taken
place, but yet when we know the previous history of
men, how lawless and savage they were, and yet find
they have conducted themselves in an exemplary

298

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

manner for twenty years, the whole circumstances
appear surprising.

I will tell an anecdote of one of the very oldest of
the chiefs, to show the apparently stubborn materials
which had to be moulded. The man relating- the
story himself, said that about thirty-five years ago he
was cruising near Datu Point when he observed a
small trading boat passing out at sea. He immedi-
ately gave chase, and when near her noticed the crew
were all armed, and preparing to defend themselves,
so his own followers advised him to sheer off, hut he
made them push alongside, and springing on board
the trading prahu with a drawn kris so effectually
alarmed the hostile crew that they all ran below.
There were six of them, but he killed them all, and
added, one only did he pity, as in their distress five
called on their mothers, but one only begged mercy
of God. And yet that man has behaved well for the
last twenty-five years, and much better, in my opinion,
than many others of far greater pretensions. It never
appears to strike him that he had committed a blood-
thirsty and wicked action, perhaps he considered that
to conceal his piratical act any means were justifiable;
but however that may be, he has completely changed
his conduct, has been faithful under great temptations,
and has always proved himself a brave and trust-
worthy man since a regular government has been
established in Sarawak.

Few would have undertaken the responsibility
of ruling a country with such materials, but to
render the task easier, there were some excellent
men to leven the multitude, and a retired pirate is

GRADUAL DEVELOPMENT.

299

generally a good servant, if you can turn the
energies that led him to a roving life into a legiti-
mate channel.

It is obvious, however, that where a government
depends for its stability on the individual character
of its officers, and where a change in the system may
be introduced by the head of the government not
following in the footsteps of his predecessors, men
will not risk their capital in the development of the
country.

I have watched the gradual development of Sarawak
with the greatest interest ; I have seen districts once
devoted to anarchy restored to prosperity and peace
by the simple support of the orderly part of the popu-
lation by a government acting with justice, and it is
not surprising that all its neighbours appeal to it,
when their own countrymen are seen to exercise so
great an influence in its councils.

The experiment so happily begun might be carried
on with great results, had the Sarawak government
more material force to back it. At present ninc-
tenths of the country are forest ; I believe the largest
portion of that may he cultivated with great success,
but population is wanting. There is but one people
who can develope the islands of the Eastern Archi-
pelago, and they are the Chinese.

They are a most industrious and saving nation, and
yet liberal in their households, and free in their per-
sonal expenses. They are the only people to support
an European government, as they arc the only Asiatics
who will pay a good revenue. In Sarawak there are
not above 3,000 Chinese, and yet they pay in indirect

300

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

taxes more than the quarter of a million of Malays
and Dayaks pay altogether. There is room within
the Sarawak territories for half a million of Chinese
cultivators, without in any way inconveniencing the
other inhabitants ; and these Chinese could pay
without feeling the pressure 21. a head in indirect
taxes : as those levied on opium, spirits, tobacco, and
other articles.

There must he soundness in the system pursued in
Sarawak, or it could not have stood alone for so many
years, exposed as it has been to successive storms.
A similar, or a modified system, supported by our
national power, would produce great results. No one
can judge of the consuming power of the Chinese
abroad, by the Chinese in their own country. Abroad
he clothes himself in English cloth, he uses English
iron ; he sometimes takes to our crockery ; he when
well off drinks our beer, and is especially partial
to our biscuits. He does nothing in a niggardly
spirit, but, as I have said, is liberal in his household.

I believe if England were to try the experiment of
a Chinese colony, where they had room to devote
themselves to agriculture, to mining, and to commerce,
the effects would be as great in proportion as those
displayed in our Australian colonies. The Indian
Isles are not far distant from China, and emigrants
from them are always ready to leave on the slightest
temptation.

I have lived so many years* in the Archipelago
that I hope my information may be found correct.
I certainly expect much from the future of Borneo,
if the present experiment should be aided or adopted,

CHINESE EMIGRATION.

301

as it possesses the elements of wealth and prosperity,
and can obtain what is essential to success, a numerous
and industrious population.

The Chinese have no difficulty in amalgamating
with the native inhabitants, and to a certain extent
can always obtain wives, as Borneo, like England,
appears to possess a redundant female population.
The men are, of course, exposed to many more dangers
than the women, and these latter are so fond of their
own homes that they seldom remove far from their
parents. But now there appears to be no difficulty
in procuring female emigrants, and if the present
rebellion continue to desolate China we might remove
all the inhabitants of a village together. I have
heard men say that they have seen as much misery
in some of the provinces of that vast empire as they
saw in Ireland during the famine, and when that is
the case, there will be no difficulty in inducing these
people to emigrate. A calculation has been made
that, if Borneo were well cultivated, it would suffice
for the support of a hundred millions of Chinese.

The administration of justice is a subject of vital
importance in all countries, but especially so in an
Asiatic and a mixed population. The simple forms
adopted in Sarawak are admirably suited to the
country, and the care displayed in inquiries has won
the confidence of the people. There are three courts
established in Sarawak : a general court, a police
court, and a native religious court. The last has
charge of all cases in which a reference is required to
the laws of the Koran, as in marriages and divorces ;
an appeal lies, however, in certain cases to the general

302

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

court. Ten years ago the native judges gave no satis-
faction to the people and inspired no confidence, as it
was known the principal chief took bribes, but since
his removal, it is rare indeed to hear of a decision
giving dissatisfaction, as both the late bandhar and
his brother, the present bandhar, really take a pride
in their court, and look into the cases. They also
regularly attend the general court, and have thus
been educated by the example set by the English
magistrates of the most patient investigation. The
general court takes cognizance of all the principal
cases both civil and criminal, and in serious trials
there is a kind of jury of the principal English and
native inhabitants.

Cheap, and above all, speedy justice is what is
required in the East, where they never can under-
stand our wearisome forms. It reminds me of the
Malay tried for murder in one of our English
courts ; he was asked the question, Guilty or Not
guilty, and answered immediately, Guilty. He was
advised to withdraw it and plead not guilty, but he
steadily refused, saying, “ Why should I plead not
guilty, when I know I committed the murder ; when
you all know that as well as I, and mean to hang me,
so don’t make a long fuss about it.” They very often
confess even the most heinous crimes. The police
court has cognizance of the same cases as wrould come
before similar courts elsewhere, with a little mixture
of the county court.

The Malays, except the followers of the Brunei
nobles, are found on the wdiole to be very truthful,
faithful to their relatives, and devotedly attached to

CHARACTER OF THE MALAYS.

303

their children. Remarkably free from crimes, and
when they commit them it is generally from jealousy.
Brave when well led, they inspire confidence in their
commanders ; highly sensitive to dishonour, and
tenacious as to the conduct of their countrymen
towards them, and remarkably polite in their manners,
they render agreeable all intercourse with them.
Malays are generally accused of great idleness ; in
one sense they deserve it ; they do not like continuous
work, but they do enough to support themselves and
families in comfort, and real poverty is unknown
among them. No relative is abandoned because he
is poor, or because an injury or an illness may have
incapacitated him for work. I like the Malays,
although I must allow that I became weary of having
only them with whom to associate.

Sarawak appears to the natives of the western
coast of Borneo what an oasis must be to the
wandering Arab, and it is often visited by the people
of the neighbouring countries to examine as a sort of
curiosity. A party of Bugau Dayaks from the upper
Kapuas once arrived in Kuching after fifteen days’
journey, merely to discover whether or not it were true
that the Dayaks of Sarawak were living in comfort ;
but a more curious incident was the arrival of a chief
from the Natunas to lay his case before the Sarawak
government. A near relative of the Sultan of
Linggin had yearly visited that group, which was
subject to his authority, under the pretence of collect-
ing taxes, but instead of confining himself to that,
commenced a system of gross extortion. The natives
submitted patiently, but not content with that, he

304

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

seized their young girls, and when his passions were
satisfied, sent them again ashore, and forbad them
to marry, under the pretence that they must consider
themselves in future as his concubines.

At last he proceeded so far as, during a chief s ab-
sence, to take up his residence in his house and to seize
on his wife and family. On the orang kaya’s return,
he was received with shots from his own batteries. His
wife, evading the watch kept on her, rejoined him ; hut
after vainly endeavouring to recover the rest of his
family, he brought his complaints to Sarawak. As
the Sultan of Linggin wTas under the suzerainty of
the Dutch, it wTas impossible to interfere actively in
their defence ; but as there was no doubt of the truth
of these representations, as they merely confirmed the
accounts which had been previously received from the
officers of one of our vessels which had surveyed that
group, the whole case was laid before the Dutch
authorities at Rhio, with an apology for the apparent
interference in their affairs ; but although naturally
disposed to think that there was much exaggeration
in the native accounts, they acted promptly, sent a
vessel of war to the Natunas, whose captain fully
confirmed the report fonvarded, and giving the young
noble an order to restore all his plunder, and come on
board within an hour, they set sail with him to one
of the fortressess to the eastward, where he remained
several years. This energetic action had a most
beneficial effect, and, although many years have
passed since, I have not heard of any complaints
from the inhabitants of that very lovely group.

The relatives of the Sultan of Linggin acted in

CHARACTER OF THE MALAYS. 305

the same way as the Bornean nobles, who really
appear to be convinced that they have a right to treat
the poorer natives as they please, and do not under-
stand any other method, hut Makota’s cruel nature
delighted in it for its sake. He used to say, “ I
know that the system of government pursued in
Sarawak is the right system, and that in the end we
should obtain much more from them by treating them
kindly ; hut I have been accustomed all my life to
oppress them, and it affords me unmixed satisfaction
to get even their cooking-pots from them;” and he
chuckled over the remembrance.

As the Malays increase in wealth, they are gradu-
ally taking more to the fashion of making pilgrimages
to Mecca, though the sufferings they undergo in the
crowded ships are almost equal to those endured in
the middle passage. Some of the Arab ships are
so crammed, that each pilgrim is only allowed suffi-
cient space for a small mat on the deck, and there he
remains during the whole voyage, except when he
cooks his meals. One year, of the twelve who started
from Sarawak on the pilgrimage, but five returned,
though now it is not so fatal, as our authorities in the
east arc preventing the over-crowding of those vessels
which leave our ports.

They have a custom in Sarawak which is rather
curious : to insure good hair to their girls, they throw
gold dust on it, and then send the child out among
the crowd, who with scizzors endeavour to snip out
the precious metal.

It has often been noticed that the Malay language
is very concise, and as a proof, I have heard the

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VOL. II.

306

SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

following anecdote related. I have not yet seen it in
print, though it may be. An English judge was con-
demning a man to death for a barbarous murder, and
earnestly dwelling on the dreadful nature of the
crime, he lengthened his discourse to twenty minutes.
Then turning to the court interpreter he told him to
translate what he had said into Malay. The official
looked sternly at the prisoner, and addressed him
thus : “ The judge says you are a very wicked man ;
you have committed a great crime, therefore you must
be hung. Sudali (I have done),” and then quietly
retired to his place, to the astonishment of the judge,
who could not comprehend how his learned and
affecting discourse had been so briefly translated ; he
could only ejaculate, “ Certainly the Malay is the most
epigrammatic language.”

As I am concluding this chapter with miscellaneous
remarks, I will tell a short anecdote told me by a
Spaniard of a Balignini pirate. After the expedition
from Manilla, in 1848, had captured the islands of
Tonquil and Balignini, they removed most of the pri-
soners to an island to the north ; among others, there
was the wife and children of a well known buccaneer,
who had been absent on a cruise during the attack, and
returning home, found his house burnt and his familv
gone. He immediately went to Samboangan and
surrendered to the authorities, saying he was tired
of the wandering life he had led, and was anxious to
live as a quiet agriculturist with his wife. The gover-
nor trusting his story, sent him to the north, where he
joined his family, and set to work with great energy
cultivating the soil ; the authorities kept a strict watch

AN INCORRIGIBLE PIRATE.

307

over him, knowing his enterprising character, but just
before the rice harvest was ready to be gathered, they
became less vigilant, as they thought no one would
abandon the result of a year’s labour ; hut at dead of
night, with a few companions to whom he had imparted
his secret, he fled with his family to the shore, where,
surprising a boat, he pulled off to his old haunts and
reached them in safety.

I have already treated of the Land and Sea Dayaks,
and will not dwell further on the subject, hut give a
short account of the Chinese on the North-west coast
of Borneo.

308

CHAPTER XII.

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

Intercourse between China and the Northern Part of Borneo —
References to the Chinese — Names of Places and Rivers — Sites
of Gardens and Houses — One of the original Settlers — The
Sultan’s Recollections — Chinese numerous in his Youth —
Reasons for their Disappearing — Anecdote of a Murut Chief —
Aborigines speaking Chinese — Mixed Breed — Good Husbands
• — Chinese at Batang Parak — At Madihit — Pepper Planters —
Origin of the Borneans — Chinese Features observed also among
the Aborigines — Careful Agriculture — A remnant of Chinese
Teaching — Traditions of a Chinese Kingdom — Effect of Treaty
with Brunei — Unsuccessful attempt to revive Pepper Planting
— Chinese scattering on the North-west Coast — A Spark of
Enlightenment — Attempt to prevent Intercourse between the
Chinese and Aborigines — Decay of Junk Trade — Cochin
Chinese — Conduct of the Chinese — Papar — Anecdote — Fatal
Result of Insulting a Woman — Skirmish — Misrepresented in
Labuan — Question of British Protection to the Chinese — Their
Insolence — Anecdote — Unpleasant Position — A Check — Diffi-
culty of obtaining Information — Cause of former Disputes —
Insurrection of the Chinese of Brunei — Sarawak — Early efforts
of the Chinese to establish themselves there — Lawless Malays —
A Murder — Retaliation — Defeat of the Chinese — Arrival of
Sir James Brooke — Mixed Breed in Sambas — Form Self-
governing Communities— Defeat of the Dutch Forces — Sub-
jugation of the Chinese — The Pamangkat Agriculturists —
Flight into Sarawak — Change in the appearance of the Country
— Mission School — Visit the Interior — Kunsis, or Gold Com-
panies— Appearance of the Country — Method of Gold-working
— The Reservoir — The Ditch — The Sluice — Wasteful method of
working — Abundance of Gold — Impetus — Failure of first Agri-
cultural Schemes — A great Flood — Troublesome Gold-workers
— Successful Scheme — Disturbance in Sambas — Flight of Chi-
nese— Illiberal Regulation — Tour through the Chinese Settle-

INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.

309

ments — Agriculture — Siniawan — Chinese workings — Hot
Spring — Gold at Fiat in Quartz — Antimony Works — Extensive
Reservoirs — Arrival of Chinese from Sambas — Denial by the
Kunsi — Hard Work at the Gold Diggings — Scenery — Path to
Sambas — Chinese Station — Numbers of the Chinese before the
Insurrection.

The first thing that strikes an inquirer into the
intercourse which was formerly carried on between
China and the northern part of Borneo, is the preva-
lence of names referring to these strangers. They are
called in Malay, Orang China ; by the Land Dayaks
of Sarawak, Orang Sina ; and bv the Borneans,
Orang Kina, men of China ; and north of the
capital, we find Kina Bcnua, the Chinese land, in
Labuan ; Kina Balu, the Chinese widow, the name
of the great mountain ; Kina Batafigan, the Chinese
river, on the north-east coast ; and we have Kina
Taki, the name of a stream at the foot of Kina
Balu and Kina Bangun, a name of a small river of
the north north eastern coast. Around Brunei we
continually come across terraces cut on the sides of
the hills, where the pepper-plant was grown, particu-
larly on the eminence below the Consulate : and the
places where the Chinese had levelled the ground on
which to build their houses are often to be met with ;
one of the most distinct was in my own garden.
Their graves are also numerous, and may easily be
traced on the slopes of the hills, though time has
worn down their edges, and left but a slightly swel-
ling mound.

My object is not to write a history of the Chinese
intercourse with Borneo, hut to notice what impress
it has left on the manners and thoughts of the people,

310

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

and what remembrances of them may still be gathered.
At present there are scarcely any of the original
settlers left. I only remember one very old man, wdio
cultivated a garden a few miles above the town ;
and although he had lived there for sixty years,
arriving as a child, he had not mastered the language
of the country, and could only say that in old days
the Chinese were numerous.

The reigning sultan used often to converse on the
subject, and told me that his own father w7as the
nobleman appointed to superintend the Chinese ; and
that about fifty years ago they were very numerous to
the westward of the town, and that when he was a
youth, he was fond of strolling in their pepper and
vegetable gardens. He did not know “ how many
there were, but there were many.” He accounted for
their almost total disappearance by saying that for
the last sixty or seventy years
recruits from China, and that the Chinese gardeners
near the town seldom had wives, but those up the
country and in the neighbouring districts lived among
the Murut and Bisaya tribes, and that their descend-
ants had mixed with the native population and
adopted their dress and habits.

An occurrence which took place whilst I was in
Brunei tended to confirm this. A Chinese pedlar,
married to a Murut girl, came to me one day to
complain of the conduct of a Bornean nobleman who
had been oppressing the aborigines. I sent him with
the Malay writer attached to the Consulate to ex-
plain his case to the sultan, as I could not interfere
myself.

they had received no

ANECDOTE OF A MURUT CHIEF.

311

The following week the chief of the Murut tribe
arrived to support the complaint, and went with the
pedlar into the shop of the principal Chinese trader
in Brunei, baba Masu, who began questioning him in
Malay. The man answered in a stupid manner, as if
he scarcely understood him, upon which the baba
turned to the pedlar and said in Holden Chinese,
“ What is the use of your bringing such a fool to
support your case?” The chief’s face brightened
directly, and he observed, in good Chinese, “ I am
not such a fool, but I don’t understand Malay well.”
The trader, very much surprised to be thus ad-
dressed in his own language by a Murut, made par-
ticular inquiries, and found that this was the grandson
of an immigrant from Amoy, who had settled among
the aborigines, and had taught his children his own
language, and his eldest son marrying the daughter
of an orang kaya, their son had succeeded to the
chieftainship of the tribe.

Subsequently, I questioned some of the Chinese
pedlars who were accustomed to trade in the districts
on the coast to the north of the capital, which are
known by the general name of Saba, and they found
there were many of the Bisayas and Muruts of
Kalias, Padas, Membakut, and Patatan, who could
speak Chinese very fairly, and who acknowledged their
mixed descent from the Chinese and the aborigines.
Wherever the former settle, they always seek wives
among the people, though few comparatively have the
good fortune to procure them. However, when they
do, the women soon become reconciled to them as
husbands, and find a manifest improvement in their

312

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

condition, as the Chinese do not like to see their
wives do more than the real domestic work of the
house, performing all the more laborious duties them-
selves, even to cooking the dinner.

My friend, the orang kaya of the village of Blim-
bing, on the Limbang, said he remembered the Chinese
living at a place called Batang Parak, about eighty
miles from the mouth of the river. He himself could
only call to mind seven who were cultivating pepper-
plantations in his time, but his father had told him
that before the insurrection the whole country was
covered with their gardens. Of this insurrection, I
could obtain few particulars, though they pointed out
a hill at the mouth of the Madalam where the
Chinese had built a fort, but had been defeated by the
Bornean forces.

A hundred and fifty miles up the Limbang, on the
banks of the Madihit branch, and beyond all the
worst rapids, the Muruts told us the Chinese
formerly had very extensive pepper-plantations ; but
within the . remembrance of their oldest men, they
had all died away, no new recruits joining them, and
their descendants were lost among the surrounding
tribes.

There is but one objection to the theory that the
Borneans derive their origin in great part from the
former Chinese settlers : it is that they are even
darker than the other Malays ; otherwise, the square-
ness and heaviness of feature, particularly observable
among the lower classes, would seem to mark them
as descendants of the labouring Chinese who form
the bulk of the emigrants from China, though I have

CAREFUL AGRICULTURE.

313

often observed that many of the children of the un-
doubtedly mixed breed were very dark. I have noticed
in my account of our first expedition to Kina Balu
the fact of the young girls at the village of Ginambur
having the front of their heads shaved after the
manner of the Chinese. I do not remember having
seen any female of the other tribes of aborigines
disfigured in the same way. When we were at the
village of Kiau, at the base of Kina Balu, we con-
tinually remarked faces which showed distinct indi-
cations of being descended from the celestials.

I have before noticed the superior style in which
the natives to the north of Brunei carry on their
agricultural operations. I find my description of the
method pursued by the Bisayas of Tanah Mcrah in
cultivating pepper exactly agrees with that of the
Chinese mentioned by Forrest in his account of
Borneo Proper. And the natives of Tawaran and
Tampasuk cultivate their rice as carefully as the
Chinese, following their example of dividing the
fields by low embankments, so as to be able to regu-
late the supply of water ; and in no other part of
Borneo arc to be found gardens as neat as those we
saw on the plain of Tawaran. It is evident they
have not yet forgotten the lessons taught to their
forefathers by the Chinese, though their improved
agriculture appears to be almost the only impress left
on the people. Instead of their following the more
civilized race, the latter appear to have completelv
blended with and become lost among the numerous
population around.

The tradition is still well known among the natives,

314

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

of the whole country being filled with those immi-
grants ; and they say that in very ancient days there
wras an empire ruled by one of the strangers, and the
Sulus have still the tradition current amon^ them

O

that in former days these islands formed a part of a
great Chinese kingdom, whose seat of government
wTas in the north of Borneo. Forrest having mentioned
that the Sulus in his day had such a tradition, drew
my attention to it, and it may refer to the time sub-
sequent to the invasion of the country by Kublai
Khan’s general. The following is an extract from
the genealogy of the sovereigns of Borneo, which is
in the possession of the pangeran tumanggong : — ■
“ He who first reigned in Brunei, and introduced
the religion of Islam, was his Highness the Sultan
Mahomed, and his Highness had one female child
by his wife the sister of the Chinese rajah, whom he
brought from Kina Batangan (Chinese river), and
this princess was married to Sherif Ali, who came
from the country of Taib, and who afterwards governed
under the name of his Highness Sultan Barkat (the
Blessed), and it was he wdio erected the mosque, and
wrhose Chinese subjects built the Kota Batu, or stone
fort.” This appears to refer to some kind of a
Chinese kingdom.

In 1846 there was scarcely a Chinese left in the
capital ; but no sooner was our treaty made in 1847,
than traders from Singapore began to open shops
there. At first, it appeared as if a valuable com-
mercial intercourse were about to commence, as it
was supposed the Chinese, as of old, would soon
begin to form pepper-plantations, and the expectation

A SPARK OF ENLIGHTENMENT.

315

was partly fulfilled. A rich shopkeeper obtained
permission from the sultan, and a grant of land
having been made, he set to work to form a garden.
He planted fruits, vegetables, and pepper, the last
grew luxuriantly, though the soil appeared unpromis-
ing; but no sooner was it known to be yielding, than
crowds of idlers from the capital flocked there, and
soon stripped it of everything eatable. In despair,
he gave up his project, and no one has had the
courage to try again ; in fact, it would be useless as
long as the present system of government holds.

Since our colony of Labuan was established in
1848, a few Chinese have left it to spread along the
coast. As yet they have had little effect, since most
of them have married into native families, and done
little else than carry on a petty trade, or manufacture
arrack. Lately, however, a few have commenced
pepper-gardens, but the districts are too unsettled to
promise much, yet it is a movement to be encouragctl.
When I have asked the Chinese why they did not
emigrate there, the invariable answer has been, “ Will
you afford us protection ? if not, as soon as our planta-
tions are productive, the nobles will force the produce
from us.”

The sultan, in a moment of enlightenment, deter-
mined to encourage planters, and actually sent for a
dozen from Singapore, paid their expenses to Brunei,
and promised a monthly allowance till the produce
of their vegetable-gardens enabled the Chinese to
support themselves. These regular payments, how-
ever, soon became very distasteful to him, and every
month he gave them less, till at last from want of

316

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

food they all dispersed, and the experiment has not
been tried again.

The Brunei government makes every effort to
prevent the Chinese mixing with the aborigines, as
it tends to destroy the monopoly of trade they seek
to establish, and they fear also the teaching of the
Chinese, who would never counsel submission to
oppressive rulers, though when employed by the nobles
as agents, they can be more systematically grinding
than the Malays.

It is evident that the intercourse between Borneo
and China, which undoubtedly was once very active,
has been decreasing for above a hundred years, and
the cause was doubtless the anarchy into wdiich the
country fell and the consequent want of protection.
Tifty years ago, the junk trade appears entirely to
have ceased; and even in 1775 it had been reduced
to about seven a year, although they continued to
build vessels at Brunei.

With regard to the accounts of old travellers,
that the north of Borneo was formerly peopled from
Cochin China, I have heard nothing to support the
theory, beyond the tradition that in ancient days a
great trade was carried on between Annam and the
north-west coast, when many Cochin Chinese settled
in Borneo. In fact, in the Champa country, in the
southern portion of the Kambodian peninsula, there
is a people whose language contains a considerable
number of Malay words ; so that the effect on these
two countries may have been mutual, though Champa,
doubtless, was more influenced by settlers from the
Malay peninsula.

SKIRMISH.

317

I have before alluded to the Chinese wandering*
from our colony of Labuan to settle in small numbers
in the districts on the coast to the north of that
island. A favourite place was Papar, as the Dusuns
there were wealthy, and, being numerous, cared little
for their nominal ruler, pangeran Omar ; and among
the Chinese settlers were two men, who lived in a
small house on the banks of the river. One day,
early in the year 1859, the wife of the chief of a
neighbouring village was passing that way, when one
of these men attempted to pull off her petticoat,
which constituted her onlv covering. Her screams
bringing some friends to the spot, the man let her
go and ran into his house. In the evening, the chief
came to demand satisfaction for this very gross insult,
hut said, as the offender was a stranger, and perhaps
did not know the customs of the country, he should
only fine him the value of a goat. The two Chinese
ordered him to leave their house, and, to enforce it,
took up their carrying-sticks, with which the one who
had insulted the woman struck him. The Dusun
chief, who had his spear in his hand, stabbed the
offender and wounded his companion, who came up
to join in the attack. This affair caused great com-
motion in the district, and all the Chinese clamoured
for vengeance.

Pangeran Omar inquired into the case, fined the
Dusun, and ordered the amount to he paid over to
the dead man’s friends. They were not, however,
satisfied with the amount of the fine, and determined
to revenge themselves. Collecting a body of about
twenty of their countrymen, on the pretence of a

318

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

pig hunt, they marched to attack the chiefs village ;
upon which the Dusuns, heating the alarm gong,
soon apprised their neighbours that they were in
danger ; and the Chinese, as usual, arrogant when
there was no opposition, but cowards in circum-
stances of peril, immediately on finding their first
volley did not frighten their enemies, fled with pre-
cipitation, and were pursued by the Dusuns, and the
larger portion of them killed.

The case was misrepresented in Labuan, and some
demands wrere made for satisfaction ; but it was evi-
dent the Chinese had brought this disaster on them-
selves ; and I know of no worse policy than to
consider all those, whether British subjects or not,
who leave our colony to settle on the coast as entitled
to our protection. If we can be of service to them,
it is as well to use our influence to insure them the
best treatment, but we should never let the Chinese
imagine we intend to give them the protection of the
British flag on all occasions. Yet it is a subject
which requires delicate handling, for, if we entirely
abandoned their interests, they would be plundered
and massacred; and without them there will never
be any progress on the coast, or developement of
trade and agriculture on a large scale ; and if we
claim them as British subjects, which a few are in
reality, their insolence to the natives is often un-
bearable.

I have generally found that those Chinese who come
direct from their own country are better adapted to
succeed with the native chiefs than those who have
resided long in our own settlements, where they ac-

UNPLEASANT POSITION.

319

quired an independence almost amounting to lawless-
ness. I once nearly lost my life through the reckless
conduct of one of these Singapore Chinese, who had
been accustomed to treat the Malays there with great
contumely. When he arrived in Brunei, he did the
same thing with a crazy man belonging to the Pablat
section of the town, and the Chinese quarter was
thrown into confusion. I sent both men to the sultan,
hut in the meantime the report spread among the
Malay’s relatives that the Chinese had ill used him,
and 150 men immediately came down, shouting that
they would run a muck among the Chinese. A
respectable Bornean trader came hastily into my
room, saying, if I did not immediately go down to
the scene, there would be a massacre. I caught up
my sword and hurried to the Chinese village, to find
the Pablat men in the act of assaulting the strangers ;
and had one wound been given, there would have
been no stopping the mischief.

I need not dwell on all the particulars, but it
was with the greatest difficulty I turned the Malays
back from their purpose. To me they behaved with
great civility, after the first excitement was over ; but
the glare their chief gave me, when I put the hilt
of my sword to his breast to prevent him using his
spear on an unfortunate Chinese trader, who had
nothing to do with the quarrel, was a very savage
one. His hand in a moment sought his kris ; but on
my saying, in a very quiet tone, “ Don’t draw your
kris on me,” he dropped his intention at once, and
although his followers drew their weapons and urged
him to the attack, he began to explain to me the

320

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

reason of his coming with that force at his back.
I knew if I could check the rush for five minutes,
things would be safe, as by that time some friends,
who were staying at the house, would be down with
all my armed followers ; and so it proved. But the
insolence of the Chinese was effectually checked by
this demonstration, and I had no further trouble with
them, as they thought I might not always be there
to stand .between them and death.

This is but a meagre account of the results of
that extensive Chinese intercourse with the northern
portion of Borneo, which was carried on for so many
hundred years; but in a country so uncivilized there
are no antiquities ; and although the tradition exists
among the people that formerly numerous immigrants
arrived and settled, still they can relate few facts
concerning them. There can be little doubt, judging
from the character of the two people, that the
nobles would endeavour to squeeze out of the foreign
planters as much as possible ; that they would fine
them heavily for very slight faults, till they would
drive the Chinese to resistance, and insurrections
would as surely follow among a people who always
unite against other races. They are no match for
the Malays and Dayaks in wild warfare ; and it is
only their organization which enables them to offer
any resistance to the desultory attacks of their
enemies.

It has been said that in the great insurrection of
the Chinese the Muruts joined them, and that the
Borneans were compelled to seek the assistance of
the Sul us to repress it, but I did not hear any

MURDER AND RETALIATION.

321

mention of the latter statement, and it appears im-
probable. Internal dissention is the more likely
cause of the failure of the attempt to throw off the
yoke of the Malays, the Muruts being bribed to
leave their allies. At all events, the Bisaya tribes
were engaged in its suppression, as the grandfather
of the orang kaya of Blimbing assisted in taking
the fort at the entrance of the Madalam river. The
Chinese insurgents, driven from the lower country,
attempted to make a stand on a rounded hill there,
but lost their fort, either by a panic or by treachery,
my informant did not appear certain which.

Between Brunei and Sarawak the Chinese do not
appear to have established themselves ; but to the
latter country the gold-workers of Sambas occasionally
sent parties of men to try the soil, as auriferous ore
was reported to be plentiful. But during the dis-
tractions consequent on the civil war, they found it
impossible to pursue their peaceful industry, and
those who were successful in obtaining gold were
exposed to the attacks of lawless Malays.

One man, who is now a very respected member of
society, a haji of mark, who has for the last twenty
years conducted himself in the most exemplary manner,
was once tempted to commit a crime by the report
that a party of Chinese was returning to Sambas with
sixty ounces of gold. lie and a few of his relations
waylaid the travellers, and, surprising them in the
dark forest, murdered them and obtained the treasure.

This naturally aroused the anger of their country-
men, and an expedition was fitted out at Sambas to
revenge the deed. They marched into the Sarawak

21

VOL. II.

322

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

territory, and advanced nearly as far as the town of
Siniawan, then occupied by Malays, but found a
strong stockade built across the path. The Chinese
numbered about seven hundred men, while their
opponents were at first scarcely twenty, but protected
by their position and numerous guns. Confident in
their numbers, the assailants rushed to the attack,
almost reaching the foot of the defences, but re-
ceiving a severe fire from the guns in position, loaded
with nails, bits of old iron and shot, they were
beaten back. The Malays acknowledge the Chinese
kept up the attacks all day ; but, after their first
repulse, they principally confined themselves to a
distant fire, though they occasionally made attempts
to turn the position, but were repulsed by the ever-
increasing numbers of the Malays.

Towards evening the Chinese withdrew to the
banks of the river, and made preparations to pass the
night ; while the Malays, who had been reinforced
by many of their friends, determined to try the effect
of a surprise. They were commanded by the gallant
patinggi Ali, whose exploits and death are recorded
in the Voyage of the Dido ; and just at sunset they
started in their light boats with a gun in each, and
pulled with an almost silent stroke towards the Chinese
encampment, where they found their enemies cooking
rice, smoking opium, or shouting or talking, in fact,
making so great a noise as to prevent the possibility
of hearing the sound of paddles, cautiously pulled.

When all were ready, patinggi Ali gave the signal
to fire, and the next moment they yelled and sprang
ashore. The startled Chinese fled, and were pursued

DEFEAT OF THE DUTCH.

323

relentlessly bv the Davaks, who had come down from

J J V 7

the hills to share in the struggle. It is said half the
invading force was destroyed, and that the old, dried
skulls I had noticed in the Dayak villages were the
trophies of the fight.

Being thus exposed to every kind of ill-treatment,
it is not surprising that the Chinese did not care to
settle in the country ; but, after Sir James Brooke
was established in Sarawak, they began to increase in
numbers, though always inclined to be troublesome.
When I arrived, in the year 1848, it was considered
there were about six hundred living there, mostly
engaged in gold-working, and even these were much
inclined to have an imperium in imperio, though too
weak to carry out their views. They had formed
themselves into an association called the Santei Kiu
kunsi, or company.

I must notice that these Chinese are not the pure
emigrants from China, hut the half-breeds, descend-
ants of the early settlers, who obtained Malay and
Dayak wives, and are more warlike in their habits
than the pure Chinese, and many have much of the
activity of the aborigines. Settled in Sambas before
the arrival of the Europeans in those seas, they
gradually formed self-governing communities among
the weak Malay States around, and by intermarriage
with the women of the Dayak tribes in their neigh-
bourhood, formed both political and social alliances
with them.

It was not to be expected that this state of things
could long exist without serious disputes arising with
the Malay chiefs ; however, they generally managed

21—2

324

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

to prevent a total estrangement ; but when backed
by the Dutch officials, the Sultan of Sambas en-
deavoured to coerce them into submission, the
Chinese gold-working communities refused to obev,
attacked the small force sent against them, captured
the forts, and drove the Dutch troops to their
steamers, and left in their possession little more than
the town of Sambas. This, of course, roused the
officials, and a strong expedition was sent from Java,
which within a year subdued the refractory Chinese,
who, in fact, submitted with very little opposition.
But during their success they managed to give
Sarawak a considerable lift.

At the mouth of the Sambas river there is a place
called Pamangkat, where several thousand Chinese
agriculturists were engaged in raising fine crops of
rice. These men had not joined their countrymen in
their resistance to the Sambas Government, and were
therefore marked out for punishment during their
brief success. In their alarm, the Pamangkat Chinese
fled to Sarawak, arriving in great numbers during
the year 1850, whilst I was absent with Sir James
Brooke on his mission to Siam ; some came by sea,
others fled overland to Lundu and to the interior.

I found on my return in October, after nearly a
year’s absence, that a great change had taken place
in the appearance of the town of Kuching : dozens
of fresh houses were built and building, while the
surrounding forest was falling rapidly before the axes
of the fugitives. Many of them had arrived destitute
of all property, and I learnt that three hundred and
ten families were entirely supported by the food and

KUNSISj OR GOLD COMPANIES. 325

money furnished by the Sarawak government, besides
hundreds of others having received presents of tools
and temporary assistance. It was calculated at the
time that about three thousand had arrived, many of
whom immediately joined the gold- workers in the
interior. We found also that the mission school had
received a great addition in the form of about twenty
remarkably intelligent-looking little boys and girls,
whose destitute parents had gladly handed them over
to the care of the clergy.

Sir James Brooke, hearing that there was much
confusion in the interior, from the numerous freshly-
arrived Chinese, and from the Dayaks being alarmed
by this sudden influx into their neighbourhood, started
with a party to visit it. We soon reached Siniawan,
the little Chinese trading town I have previously
described, which was but now advancing to importance.
We continued our course up the river to Tundong,
where there is a ghat used by the gold-working com-
pany to land their supplies. Nearly all the gold that
is worked in Borneo is done by kunsis, or companies,
which sometimes numbered several thousand men ;
in fact, they say that at Montrado nearly the -whole
of its Chinese population and that of the neighbour-
hood, estimated at 50,000 men, were included in one
kunsi. Generally, however, they consisted, as at
Sarawak, of a few hundred members, though they
might still be in connexion with the parent company.
The great influx of Chinese had now, however, swelled
the Santei Kiu kunsi to inconvenient dimensions.

At Tundong we found a few store-houses and
a very tolerable path leading over to Bau, the prin-

326

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

cipal Chinese settlement. The views on either side
of us, as we advanced, were sometimes exceedingly
picturesque ; for, as we reached the summits of low
hills, a fine undulating country was spread out beneath
us. The path led through shady forests, then open
Dayak clearings, along the sides of hills, and over
pretty streams spanned by very primitive bridges.

As we approached the town of Bau we met a hand
of Chinese musicians who had come forth to greet us,
and gun after gun was discharged in honour of the
rajah’s visit. Our procession was a very motley one,
half a dozen Englishmen, followed by a long line of
Malays, Chinese, and Dayaks, marching in Indian pro-
cession, some carrying spears, others muskets, or flags.

At last we reached the kunsi’s house, prettily
situated in the valley of Bau, which was on two sides
flanked by black-looking perpendicular hills. The
house itself was a substantial one, built of ironwood
posts and good planks, and roofed with excellent iron-
wood shingles.

I will describe one of their gold-workings. They
dammed up the end of the valley at the back of the
kunsi’s house, thus forming a large reservoir of water,
perhaps a quarter of a mile in length. The dam was
very neatly constructed, being completely faced with
wood towards the water, and partially on the outside,
to enable it to resist the very heavy rains which fall
in this countrv. A ditch, about four feet broad, wTas
cut from the reservoir towards the ground which the
overlooker of the company had selected as a spot likely
to produce a good yield of gold, and a well-made
sluice-gate was constructed in the dam to supply the

ABUNDANCE OF GOLD.

32 7

ditch with as much water as might be required ;
minor sluice-gates to the main ditch enabled the
smaller ones also to receive supplies of water. When
this was all prepared, the sluice-gates were opened,
and the earth in its neighbourhood thrown into the
ditch, and the rushing water carried off the mud and
sand and allowed the particles of gold to sink to the
bottom. After three or four months they cleaned
out the ditch and carefully washed the residue, which
generally yielded them sufficient to make a tolerable
division among the workmen after all the expenses
had been paid.

It is a very wasteful system of working gold ;
in fact, when we were there, all the women and girls,
lately arrived from Sambas, had the privilege given
them of washing the earth which had been swept
away by the rushing water, and I believe they
obtained as much in proportion to the number work-
ing as was divided among the men, who had had all
the labour of constructing these extensive works. No
one has yet taught them deep sinking ; in fact, it is
to be regretted that none of their countrymen accus-
tomed to the method of procuring this precious metal
in our Australian colonies have yet visited Sarawak.

That there is an abundance of gold to be found
there I verily believe, and, as an instance, I may notice
that in November, 1 848, a great landslip took place,
and the face of the Trian mountain was laid bare.
Some Malays, observing small pieces of gold mixed
with the clay, began a strict search, and having
great success, the news soon spread, and several thou-
sand people flocked to the spot, where they worked

328

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

till the heap of earth and stone was cleared away.
All had fair success, and we heard of none who got
less than an ounce and a half per month. The work
lasted above six weeks. I saw one nugget picked up,
which weighed about seven ounces.

The influx of the Pamangkat Chinese gave great
impetus to the search for the auriferous ore, and new
reservoirs, dams, and ditches, were appearing in every
direction ; hut yet the new-comers, being only accus-
tomed to agriculture, did not take very kindly to gold
digging. Sir James Brooke was anxious to remove
a large body to some district which they could culti-
vate ; hut they were too poor to be able to support
themselves while waiting for their crops; The gold com-
pany was not willing to part with these people, and pro-
mised them every assistance if they would stay at Bau.

Nearly all the early efforts to assist these immi-
grants in developing the agricultural resources of the
country had hut little success. They commenced
rice farms at Si Jinkat on the Muaratabas, and also at
the foot of the Santubong hill ; hut though they were
supplied with food and tools by the Sarawak govern-
ment, they abandoned both attempts, and scattered
themselves either among the gold-workers in the in-
terior, or removed to the district of Lundu, where,
as I have already mentioned, they made beautiful
gardens. It was a matter of regret that they should
have abandoned Santubong, as the soil is of a very
fine description. I believe the non-success, however,
arose from defective management and inefficient
superintendence.

Everything appeared to goon very quietly till January

SUCCESSFUL SCHEME.

329

1852, when a fortnight’s continued rain rather injured
their reservoirs, and laid the country under water.
Such a flood, they say, never before or since came
upon them. At Kuching it was necessary in the
Chinese town to move from house to house in boats.
At Siniawan it rose to so great a height that the
inhabitants had to abandon their houses, and an
unfortunate Chinese, seeking safety in his garret, was
drowned, being unable to force his way through the
roof ; and up the country we saw afterwards the dried
grass left by the stream at least forty feet above the
usual level of the river.

In 1853, the gold company gave the government
considerable trouble, and had to be curbed by a great
display of armed force ; but they submitted without
any necessity of proceeding to extremities. The case
was this : the government had issued an order to the
company that they should not make any fresh
reservoirs or gold-workings among the Dayak lands
without obtaining permission from the authorities, as
on several occasions quarrels had arisen between them
and the neighbouring tribes, on account of their taking
possession of the best farming ground in the country.

The Pamangkat Chinese were never quite satisfied
with their position as gold-workers, and constantly
made applications to the government for assistance
in order to recommence their old style of living as
rice cultivators. At last they fixed on a good spot,
and food and rice were supplied to several hundreds.
This well-managed movement might have been in-
creased to any extent, as all the late immigrants pre-
ferred a quiet rural life ; and by the commencement

330

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

of 1856 nearly five hundred were established at a
place called Sungei Tangah, about six miles above
the town.

I may observe that during the four previous years
the Dutch had kept the Chinese within the boundary
of their settlements in very strict order; but, in 1856,
some dispute taking place, a Dutch officer and a party
of troops were cut off by the workmen of the Lumar
kunsi, one of the large gold companies, about three
hundred of whom escaped over the borders into the
Sarawak territories, w7hile the rest were captured, and
many suffered condign punishment for their crime.

I will notice here a regulation which obtains in the
Dutch territories of Sambas and the other border
states, which is so illiberal that I can scarcely believe
it to be authorized by any of the superior authorities,
but must be the work of a very narrow-minded local
official. No Chinese, whether man, woman, or child,
can leave the Dutch territories without first paying a
fine of 6/. ; so that as very few workmen can save that
amount they are practically condemned to remain there
all their lives, unless they can evade the blockade
kept upon them, thus running the risk of the cat-o’-
nine-tails, a fine, and imprisonment. The reason for
this regulation is that no Chinese in Borneo would
willingly remain under Dutch rule who could possibly
escape from it ; and if liberty were given to them to
leave the country, nearly every man would abandon
it. Therefore, gunboats watch the coast, and on the
frontiers soldiers, Malays, and Dayaks, are ordered
to stop any Chinese who may attempt to escape from
the Dutch territories.

SINIAWAN.

331

In the spring of 1856, I made a tour through the
Chinese settlements established in Sarawak, com-
mencing with the rice plantations and vegetable
gardens established at Sungei Tangah. I have never
seen in Borneo anything more pleasing to my eye
than the extensive cultivated fields which spread out
around the scattered Chinese houses, each closely
surrounded by beds of esculent plants growing in
a most luxuriant manner.

Every day appeared to be adding to the area of
cultivation ; because, as the agriculturists became
more wealthy, they invited the poorer gold-workers
to join them, and were thus enabled to employ many
labourers. Already the effect of this increase of pro-
duce was perceptible on prices, so that vegetables,
fowls, and ducks, were beginning to be bought at
reasonable rates. On the other side, the right-hand
bank of the river, near the little mount of Stapok,
about forty Chinese had commenced gardens without
any assistance from Government, and appeared to be
very prosperous. To this spot a road had been cut
through the forest from the town, which afterwards
became memorable in Sarawak annals. Altogether,
as I have before observed, there were about five
hundred people assembled here engaged in a war
against the jungle.

Continuing our course towards the interior, we met
with no Chinese houses until we reached the village
of Siniawan, at that time governed by the guns of
the little fort of Biledah, admirably situated on a
high point jutting into the river, and on the same
spot where the Sarawak Malays during the civil

332

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

wars had their strongest stockade. The town was
remarkably flourishing, and we here heard a confir-
mation of the reports that a great many Chinese were
arriving from Sambas. As we were anxious to be
thoroughly acquainted with the actual condition of
the gold-working population, we determined to walk
across from Siniawan to the head-quarters of the gold
company at Bau. The paths were in very good con-
dition, quite suited for riding over, except when Ave
reached the bridges thrown across the deep gullies
which intersect the country.

From Siniawan all the way to Bau, a distance of
ten miles, there was a constant succession of reser-
voirs and gold- workings ; and judging from the new
houses springing up in every direction, we felt sure
the population was increasing. About a third of the
way along the road, a branch path led to a place
called by the Chinese “ Shaksan,” where there was
an excellent hot spring, over which Mr. Ruppell had
built a little house. We diverged to this spot to
indulge in the unusual sensation of a hot bath, and
found the temperature of the water so warm that it
was almost unbearable ; but for any one suffering
from rheumatism it would be excellent. We noticed
in the neighbourhood many limestone rocks water-
worn into fantastic shapes, exactly similar to those I
subsequently observed near the base of the mountain
of Molu.

There are near the main path some large reser-
voirs in wdiich very fine fish are found, and the
road being led along the banks, or over the broad
dams, it was very picturesque, particularly near the

ANTIMONY WORKS.

333

limestone hills of Piat, where we found a large party
of Malays seeking gold in the quartz which lines the
crevices and the caves of these hills. A very pretty
specimen was shown us with the particles of gold
sparkling as if imbedded in crystal.

As it was my companion’s duty to inspect all the
stations, we diverged to the right to visit the anti-
mony mines of Busu. We found there upwards of
fifty Chinese apparently working at the rock on the
steep face of a hill, burrowing here and there in the
limestone. The rocks were very much like those of
the mountain of Molu, and climbing over their sharp
surface into little out-of-the-way corners, wTe found
two or three Chinese scattered here and there, pick-
ing out lumps of antimony from the crevices of the
limestone, or perfectly imbedded in it, and requiring
much labour to procure.

These are not really mines — no vein is found, hut
merely lumps of ore scattered in every direction.

Just at the foot of the hill in the forest wre came
upon two Malays who had just discovered a lump of
antimony weighing several tons which was but a few
feet below the surface, and having cleared away the
superincumbent earth, were now covering it over with
dry wood, in order to split the metal, by first raising
the temperature by fire, and then suddenly reducing
it by water.

Near Bau the reservoirs increased in number and
extent, while the population became more numerous,
and as at each Chinese house there were several
ferocious dogs kept, it was necessary to be perpetually
on one’s guard. The town of Bau wras much more

334

THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.

extensive than I could have supposed ; I counted
above one hundred shops, and there were many
houses besides.

Our attention was particularly drawn to one long,
enclosed shed, filled with Chinese, who evidently,
from their appearance and conduct, were strangers.
On arriving at the gold company’s house, we made
inquiries respecting these late arrivals, and the prin-
cipal people positively denied any had reached Bau,
which was evidently untrue. These kunsis are
regular republics, governed by officers selected by
the multitude : a common workman may suddenly he
elevated to he their leader. They generally choose
well, and look chiefly to the business character of
the man put up for their selection.

Though, perhaps, gold-working pays on the whole
more than other labour, the men are kept so very
hard at work that the ranks are not easily filled ; yet
they are allowed five meals a day, with as much rice
as they can eat, a good supply of salt fish and pork,
and tea always ready. At their meals the Chinese
are very fond of drinking their weak arrack, or
samsliu, raw, but as nearly approaching a boiling
state as the lips can endure.

Our tour then led us to the neighbourhood of the
antimony mines of Bidi, where the Bornean company
are at present working that metal with success.

The country here is very picturesque : fine open
valleys bordered by almost perpendicular limestone
hills, and with an admirable soil. Occasionally the
whole length of a precipice is undermined, forming
extensive open caves, with huge stalactites hanging

CHINESE BEFORE THE INSURRECTION.

335

down at the extreme edge, giving a beautiful yet
fantastic appearance to these natural dwellings.

We spent a night at a village of the Sau Dayaks,
whose long dwelling was built on a steep hill on the
banks of the Sarawak river ; and from thence on
nearly to the borders of tbe Sarawak territory, was
an admirable path constructed by the Chinese to
facilitate their intercourse with Sambas, but unfortu-
nately for travellers, they had not completed it to Bau.

A four hours’ walk brought us to the last Chinese
station, which was evidently more intended as a rest-
ing place for wayfarers than because its inhabitants
were actually much engaged in gold- working there.
We ascended the hills to the village of the Gombang
Dayaks, and heard that a continual stream of small
parties of Chinese was constantly passing within sight
of their village. So there was little doubt that the
Chinese population was increasing.

From all the inquiries we made as to the numbers
engaged directly and indirectly in gold-working, we
considered there were nearly three thousand living
between the town of Siniawan and the border. There
were about five hundred agriculturists in Suhgei
Tungah and its neighbourhood, and perhaps eight
hundred in the town of Kuching, the sago manu-
factories, and the surrounding gardens ; but these
were soon after recruited by the three hundred
fugitives from Sambas, to whom I have before
referred ; so that the Chinese population of Sarawak
amounted to above four thousand five hundred
before they rose in insurrection, and while seeking
to overthrow the government, ruined themselves.

336

CHAPTER XIII.

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

Secret Societies — Extensive Intercourse — Smuggling — The Gold
Company fined — Punishment of three of its Members — Arro-
gance of the Kunsi — A Police Case — Real Causes of the
Insurrection — An Emissary from the Tien Ti Secret Society —
Reported Encouragement given by the Sultan of Sambas —
Sambas Nobles speak Chinese — Their Nurses — The Nobles
conspiring — An Emissary arrives in Brunei — Proposal — Know-
ledge of the intended Insurrection — Proposed Attack on the
Consulate — The Tumanggong’s Threat — The Emissary before
the Court — Letter from the Tien Ti Hue — Rumours of in-
tended Insurrection — Preparations and Inquiries — Commence-
ment of the Revolt — Useless Warnings — Surprise of the
Government House — Danger of the Rajah — Cowardice of the
Chinese — Escape — Swims the River — Death of Mr. Nicholets
— Attacks on the other Houses — On the Stockade — Gallant
Conduct of Mr. Crymble and the Malay Fortmen — Warm
Reception of the Rebels — Death of a Madman — A Brave Cor-
poral— Escape of Mr. Crymble — His last Blow — Fortmen
again behave well — Confusion in the Town — Peaceful
Assurances — Attempt to organize a Defence — Panic-stricken —
Departure — Conduct of the People — Next Morning — Killed
and Wounded — The Chinese in Power — The Court House — A
Check to Joy — Oath of Fidelity — Courage shown by Abang
Patali — A Blow struck — Second Descent of the Chinese — A
Boat Action — Gallant Attack — Deaths — Anecdote — The
Second Retreat — The Town in Flames — The Steamer — The
Capital recovered — Pursuit of the Chinese — They retire to the
Interior — Attacks of the Land Dayaks — Foray of the Chinese
— Their Fort taken by the Datu Bandhar — Pursuit — Disorderly
Retreat — Critical Position — Brave Girls — Pass the Frontier —
The Men of the Kunsi — A Quarrel — Stripped of Plunder —
Results of the Insurrection — Forces at the Disposal of the

CAUSES OF THE INSURRECTION. 337

Sarawak Government — Conduct of the People — Disastrous to
the Chinese — New System — Arrival of armed Chinese from
Sambas — Dutch and English Assistance — Revisit Sarawak —
Change — Conduct of the Rajah — Its Effect on the People —
Secret Society at Labuan — Dangers from the Secret Societies
and their Defenders — Curious Incident — Thoughtful Care of
the Rajah.

I shall endeavour to tell the story of the Chinese
insurrection which suddenly broke out in Sarawak in
the year 1857, as it appears to me to be fraught with
instruction to us, and if carefully studied, may be of
infinite service to those who have to govern colonies
where the Chinese form a considerable portion of the
population.

For many years the Chinese had attempted to form
secret societies in Sarawak ; but every effort was made
to check their spread among the people, and it ap-
peared as if success had attended that policy. To a
considerable extent it was the case : but up in the in-
terior, among the gold workers, the kunsi or company
stood in the place of a secret society, and its members
carried on an extensive intercourse with their fellow-
countrymen in Sambas and Pontianak, and with the
Tien Ti secret society in Singapore. I have described
in the last chapter a tour which Mr. Fox and I made
among the settlements of the Chinese in the interior
of Sarawak, during which we became convinced that
smuggling was carried on to a great extent, for, how-
ever numerous might be the new immigrants, the
opium revenue did not increase.

At last it was discovered that opium was sent from
Singapore to the Natuna islands, and from thence
smuggled into Sarawak and the Dutch territories; it

22

VOL. II.

338

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

was traced to the kunsi, which was thereupon fined
150/.: a very trifling amount, considering the thou-
sands they had gained by defrauding the revenue,
and measures were immediately taken to suppress the
traffic, which, together with the punishment of three
of its members for a gross assault on another Chinese,
were the only grounds of complaint they had against
the Sarawak government.

To show their arrogance, I will enter into the
details of this case. A Chinese woman ran away from
her husband, a member of the kunsi, who followed
her to Kuching, and obtained an order from the
police magistrate that she should return with him,
but on her refusal, she was ordered to remain within
the stockade. As the case was peculiar, she was not
confined to a cell, but suffered to move about in the
inner court ; and some of her friends supplying her
with men’s clothes, she managed to slip out unper-
ceived by the sentry, and obtained a passage on
board a Chinese boat bound for one of the villages
on the coast. Her husband hearing of the place to
which she had removed, followed her with a strong
party of the members of the kunsi, and recovered her.
Not satisfied with this, they seized all the boatmen,
and flogged them in the most unmerciful manner, and
then placed them in irons. When let go, they of
course brought their complaint before the police
magistrate, and three of the party were punished for
taking the law into their own hands.

These trivial cases were not the real cause of the
insurrection, as the Chinese before that date were
greatly excited by the news that the English had

CAUSES OF THE INSURRECTION.

339

retired from before Canton ; and it was of course
added, we had been utterly defeated, and their pre-
parations were made before the smuggling was dis-
covered, or the members of their company punished.
The secret societies were everywhere in great excite-
ment, and the Tien Ti sent an emissary over from
Malacca and Singapore, to excite the gold workers to
rebellion, and used the subtle, but false argument,
that not only were the English crushed before Canton,
but that the British Government were so discontented
with Sir James Brooke, that they would not interfere
if the kunsi only destroyed him and his officers, and
did not meddle with the other Europeans, or obstruct
the trade.

It is also currently reported that the Sambas sultan
and his nobles offered every encouragement to the
undertaking, and the Chinese listened much to their
advice, as these nobles can speak to them in their own
language, and are imbued greatly with Chinese ideas.
To explain this state of things, I may mention that
they are always nursed by girls chosen from among
the healthiest of the daughters of the gold workers ;
and I may add, that about that time there was a
very active intercourse carried on between the Malay
nobles of Sambas and Makota, and that the latter
was constantly closeted with an emissary of the Tien
Ti Hue, or secret society, to whom I am about to refer.
It behoves the Dutch authorities to look well to the
proceedings of the native governments within their
own territories, as there is very great discontent, and
there is not the slightest doubt that the nobles are
conspiring.

22—2

340

TIIE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

To show that it is not a mere imagination that the
Tien Ti secret society sent emissaries around at
that time, I may state that on the 14th of February,
four days before the insurrection, a Chinese named
Achang, who had arrived in Brunei from Singapore a
few days previously, and had the year before been
expelled from Sarawak for joining that Ilue, came to
my house to try and induce my four Chinese servants
to enter it ; and added as a sufficient reason that the
kunsi of Sarawak would by that time have killed all
the white men in that country. He also said that he
was very successful in enlisting members among the
sago washers and other labourers in the capital, and
that they had made up their minds to attack my
house, and destroy me within a few weeks, and if my
servants did not join the society they would share my
fate.

I did not believe what was said about Sarawak,
and any warning of mine would not have reached
there for a month, hut I did not altogether neglect
this information, which was secretly given me by my
butler, a Chinese, who had lived several years in
England, and whose death by cholera in 1 859 I much
regretted ; but sent to the sultan and ministers inti-
mation of what I had heard, and the stern remark of
the tumanggong, that if such an attack were made,
not a Chinese should, by the following night, be
left alive in the whole country, effectually curbed
them. This Acliang, though a very quarrelsome fellow,
had soon a case of just complaint against a British
subject, which he brought before my court ; when it
was over, I asked him how he would have obtained a

USELESS WARNINGS.

341

settlement of his claims, if his intention to murder
me had been carried out. I never saw a man’s coun-
tenance change more, and thinking he was about to fall
on the ground, and to clasp my knees, either to beg
for pardon, or, what is more probable, to entreat that
I would not believe the story, I told my writer to
lead him out of the court.

At Bau the letter from the Tien Ti Hue was shown
to nakodah Jeludin by the writers of the kunsi,
whilst he was detained a prisoner there, and this was
not invented by him as a startling incident, hut men-
tioned casually in the course of conversation ; this
Malay afterwards died fighting bravely in the last
charge to break the ranks of the Chinese.

During the month of November, 1856, rumours
were abroad that the Chinese gold company intended
to surprise the stockades, which constituted the only
defences of the town of Kuching, and which, as no
enemy wras suspected to exist in the country, were
seldom guarded by above four men each ; but Mr.
Crookshank, who was then administering the govern-
ment, took the precaution to man them with an effi-
cient garrison, as it was said that during one of their
periodical religious feasts, several hundred men were
to collect quietly, and make a rush for the defences
which contained the arsenal. On Sir James Brooke’s
return, however, strict inquiries were instituted, but
nothing could be discovered to implicate the gold com-
pany in a plot, and it appeared unlikely they would
attempt it during the absence of the ruler who could
have so soon revenged it.

On the 18th of February, the chiefs of the gold com-

342

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

pany assembled about 600 of their workmen at Bau,
and placing all the available weapons in their hands,
marched them down to their chief landing-place
at Tundong, where a squadron of their large cargo
boats was assembled. It is generally reported that,
until they actually began to descend the stream, none
but the heads of the movement knew the object, the
men having been informed that they were to attack a
Dayak village in Sambas, where some of their country-
men had lately been killed.

During their slow passage down the river, a Malay
who was accustomed to trade with them, overtook
them in a canoe, and actually induced them to permit
him to pass, under the plea that his wife and child-
ren lived at a place called Batu Kawa, eight miles
above the town, and would be frightened if they
heard so many men passing, and he not there to
reassure them ; he pulled down as fast as he could
till he reached the town of Kuching, and going
straight to his relative, a Malay trader of the name
of Gapur, who was a trustworthy and brave man,
told him the story, but he said, “ Don’t go and tell
the chiefs or the rajah such a tissue of absurdities ; ”
yet he went himself over to the bandhar and informed
him ; hut the datu’s answer was, “ The rajah is
unwell, we have heard similar reports for the last
twenty years ; don’t go and bother him about it ; I
will tell him what your relative says in the morning.”
This great security was caused by the universal belief
that the Chinese could not commit so great a folly as
to attempt to seize the government of the country, as
they did not number above 4,000, while, at that time,

CONFUSION IN THE TOWN.

343

the Malays and Dayaks, within the Sarawak terri-
tories, amounted to 200,000.

But at midnight the squadron of Chinese boats pulled
silently through the town, and dividing into two bodies,
the smaller number entered Suhgei Bedil. the little
stream above the government house, while the larger
continued its course to the landing-place of the fort,
to endeavour to surprise the houses of Mr. Crook-
shank, the police magistrate, and Mr. Middleton, the
constable, while a large party was told off to attack
the stockades. The government house was situated
on a little grassy hill, surrounded by small, but pretty
cottages, in which visitors were lodged. The Chinese
landing on the banks of the stream just above a
house in which I used to reside, marched to the
attack in a body of about a hundred, and passing
by an upper cottage, made an assault on the front and
back of the long government house, the sole inhabit-
ants of which were the rajah and a European servant.
They did not surround the house, as their trembling
hearts made them fear to separate into small bodies,
because the opinion was rife among them that the rajah
was a man brave, active, skilled in the use of weapons,
and not to be overcome except by means of numbers.

Boused from his slumbers by the unusual sounds
of shouts and yells at midnight, the rajah looked
out of the Venetian windows, and immediately
conjectured what had occurred : several times he
raised his revolver to fire in among them, but con-
vinced that alone he could not defend the house, he
determined to effect his escape. He supposed that
men engaged in so desperate an affair would natur-

344

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

ally take every precaution to insure its success, and
concluded that bodies of the insurgents were silently
•watching the ends of the house ; so summoning his
servant, he led the way down to a bath-room, which
communicated with the lawn, and telling him to open
the door quickly, and then follow closely, the rajah
sprang forth with sword drawn, and pistol cocked,
hut found the coast clear. Had there been twenty
Chinese there, he would have passed through them,
as his quickness and practical skill in the use of
weapons are not, I believe, to be surpassed. Reach-
ing the banks of the stream above his house, he found
the Chinese boats there, hut diving under the bows
of one, he reached the opposite shore unperceived,
and as he was then suffering from an attack of fever
and ague, fell utterly exhausted, and lay for some time
on the muddy bank, till slightly recovering lie was
enabled to reach the government writer’s house. An
amiable and promising young officer, Mr. Nicholets,
who had but just arrived from an out-station on a
visit, and lodged in the upper cottage, was startled
by the sound of the attack, and rushing forth to
reach the chief house, was slain by the Chinese ; while
Mr. Steel, who was there likewise on a visit, and Sir
James’s servant, escaped to the jungle.

The other attacks took place nearly simultaneously,
Mr. and Mrs. Crookshank rushing forth, on hearing
this midnight alarm, were cut down, the latter left for
dead, the former severely wounded. The constable’s
house was attacked, but he and his wife escaped,
while their two children and an English lodger were
killed by the insurgents.

ATTACKS.

345

The forts, however, wrerc not surprised ; the
Chinese, waiting for the signal of attack on the
houses, were perceived by the sentinel, and he imme-
diately aroused Mr. Crymble, who resided in the
stockade, which contained the arsenal and the prison.
He endeavoured to make some preparations for
defence, although he had hut four Malays with him.
lie had scarcely time, however, to load a six-pounder
field-piece, and get his own rifle ready, before the
Chinese, with loud shouts, rushed to the assault.
They wrcre led by a man bearing in either hand a
flaming torch. Mr. Crymble waited till they were
within forty yards ; he then fired and killed the man,
who, by the light he bore, made himself conspicuous,
and before the crowd recovered from the confusion in
which they were thrown by the fall of their leader,
discharged among them the six-pounder loaded with
grape, which made the assailants retire behind the
neighbouring houses or hide in the outer ditches.
But w7ith four men little could he done, and some of
the rebels having quietly crossed the inner ditch,
commenced removing the planks which constituted
the only defence. To add to the difficulty, they threw
over into the inner court little iron tripods, with
flaming torches attached, which rendered it as light
as day, while all around was shrouded in darkness.

To increase the number of defenders, Mr. Crymble
released two Malay prisoners, one a madman, who had
killed his wife, the other a debtor. The latter
quickly disappeared, while the former, regardless of
the shot flying around, stood to the post assigned
him, opposite a plank which the Chinese were trying

346

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

to remove ; he had orders to fire his carbine at the
first person who appeared, and when, the plank giving-
way, a man attempted to force his body through, he
pulled the trigger without lowering the muzzle of his
carbine and sent the ball through his own brains.
Mr. Crymble now found it useless to prolong the
struggle, as one of his four men was killed, and
another, a brave Malay corporal, was shot down at his
side. The wounded man begged Mr. Crymble to fly
and leave him there, but asked him to shake hands
with him first, and tell him whether he had not
done his duty; but the Englishman seized him by
the arm and attempted to drag him up the stairs
leading to the dwelling-house over the gate, but the
Chinese had already gained the court-yard, and
pursuing drove their spears through the wounded
man, and Mr. Crymble was forced to let go his hold,
and with a brave follower, Duud, swung himself down
into the ditch below. Some of the rebels seeing their
attempted escape, tried to stop Mr. Crymble, and a
man stabbed at bim, but only glanced his thick frieze
coat, and received in return a cut across the face
from the Englishman’s cutlass, which, if he be still
alive, will be a remembrance to carry to the grave.

The other stockade, though it had but a corporal’s
watch of three Malays, did not surrender, until finding
that every other place was in the hands of the Chinese,
the brave defenders opened the gates, and charging
the crowd of rebels, sword in hand, made their
escape, though they were all severely wounded in the
attempt.

The confusion which reigned throughout the rest

CONFUSION IN THE TOWN.

347

of the town may be imagined, as startled by the shouts
and yells of the Chinese the inhabitants rushed to
the doors and windows, and beheld night turned into
day by the bright flames that rose in three direc-
tions, where the extensive European houses were
burning at the same time.

It was at first very naturally thought that the
Chinese contemplated a general massacre of the Euro-
peans, but messengers were soon despatched to them
by the kunsi, to say that nothing was further from
their intention than to interfere with those who were
unconnected with the Government.

The rajah had as soon as possible proceeded to the
datu bandhar’s house, and being quickly joined
by his English officers, endeavoured to organize a
force to surprise the victorious Chinese, but it was
impossible ; no sooner did he collect a few men, than
their wives and children surrounded them, and refused
to be left, and being without proper arms or ammu-
nition, it was but a panic-stricken mob ; so he instantly
took his determination, with that decision which has
been the foundation of his success, and giving up the
idea of an immediate attack, advised the removal of
the women and children to the left-hand bank of the
river, where they would be safe from a land attack of
the Chinese, who could now make their way along
the right-hand bank by a road at the back of the
town.

This removal was accomplished by the morning,
when the party of English under the rajah walked
over to the little river of Siol, which falls into the
Santubong branch of the Sarawak, where obtaining

348

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

canoes, they started for the Samarahan river, intend-
ing to proceed to the Batang Lupar to organize an
expedition from the well-supplied forts there. At the
mouth of the Siol, the rajah found the war boat of
ahang Buyong with sixty men waiting for him, which
was soon joined by six others, though smaller ; as no
sooner did the Malays of the neighbouring villages hear
that the rajah was at Siol, than they began flocking
to him. He now started for the Samarahan, and rested
at the little village of Sabang, and to the honour of the
Malay character, I must add that during the height
of his power and prosperity, never did he receive so
much sympathy, tender attention, and delicate gene-
rosity, as now when a defeated fugitive. They vied
with each other, as to who should supply him and
his party with clothes and food, since they had lost
all, and if to know that he was enshrined in the
hearts of the people was any consolation to him in his
misfortunes, he had ample proofs of it then.

When morning broke in Kuching, there was a scene
of the wildest confusion ; the 600 rebels, joined by the
vagabonds of the town, half stupefied with opium, were
wandering about discharging their muskets loaded
with ball cartridge in every direction ; but at eight
o’clock the chiefs of the gold company sent a mes-
sage to the bishop of Labuan, requesting him to
come down and attend the wounded. He did so, and
found thirty-two stretched out, the principal being
from gun-shot wounds ; hut among them he noticed
one with a gash across his face from the last blow
Mr. Crymble had struck at the rebels, and before his
arrival they had buried five of their companions.

FEARS OF THE CHINESE.

349

It was evident that in the intoxication of victory
the Chinese aimed now, if not before, at the com-
plete government of the country, and summoned the
bishop of Labuan, Mr. Helms, Mr. Ruppell, and the
datu bandhar to appear at the court-house ; the
English were obliged to attend the summons, and the
last came with great reluctance, and contrary to the
advice of his' energetic brother, but it wTas thought
expedient to gain time.

The Chinese chiefs even in their most extravagant
moments of exultation, were in great fear that on
their return the Malays might attack their crowded
boats, and destroy them, as on the water they felt
their great inferiority to their maritime enemies.

It must have been an offensive sight to the English
and the Malays to witness the arrangement of the
court-house : in the rajah’s seat sat the chief of the
kunsi, supported on either side by the writers or
secretaries, while the now apparently subdued sections
took their places on the side benches. The Chinese
chief issued his orders, which were that Mr. Helms
and Mr. Ruppell should undertake to rule the foreign
portion of the town, and that the datu bandhar
should manage the Malays, while the kunsi as
supreme rulers should superintend the whole, and
govern the up country.

Everything now appeared to be arranged, when it
wras suggested that perhaps Mr. Johnson might not
quite approve of the conduct of the Chinese in
murdering his uncle and his friends ; for the rajah
at that moment was supposed to be dead, and the
head of Mr. Nicholets was shown as the proof.

350

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

At the mention of Mr. Johnson’s name there was
a pause, a blankness came over all their faces, and
they looked at each other, as they now remembered
apparently for the first time that he, the rajah’s
nephew, was the governor of the Sea Dayaks, and
could let loose at least 10,000 wild warriors upon
them. At last it was suggested, after an animated
discussion, that a letter should be sent to him, re-
questing him to confine himself to his own government,
and then they would not attempt to interfere with
him.

The Chinese were very anxious to have matters
settled, as with all their boasts they did not feel quite
comfortable, and were anxious to secure the plunder
they had obtained. They now called upon the gentle-
men and the Malay chiefs present to swear fidelity to
the kunsi, and under the fear of death they were
obliged to go through the Chinese formula of taking
oaths by killing fowls. Next day the rebels retired
up country unmolested by the Malays, and a meeting
was at once held at the datu bandhar’s house to
discuss future proceedings ; at first no one spoke,
there was a gloom over the assembly, as the mass of
the population was deserting the town, carrying off
their women and children to Samarahan as a place of
safety, when abang Patali, son to the datu tumang-
gong, addressed the assembly. He was a sturdy man,
with a pleasant, cheerful countenance, and a warm
friend to English rule, and his first words were, —
“ Are we going to submit to be governed by Chinese
chiefs, or are we to remain faithful to our rajah ? I
am a man of few words, and I say I will never be

ABANG PATAH’S COURAGE.

351

governed by any but him, and to-night I commence
war to the knife against his enemies.”

This was the unanimous determination of the
assembly, but they were divided as to the course to be
pursued. Patah, however, cut the knot of the diffi-
culty by manning a light canoe with a dozen Malays,
and proceeding at once up the river, attacked and
captured a Chinese boat, killing five of its defen-
ders. In the meantime the women and children were
all removed from the town, and some boats were
armed and manned, but imperfectly, as the Chinese
had taken away the contents of the arsenal, and
the principal portion of the crews were engaged in
conveying the fugitives to Samarahan.

Patah’s bold act was well-meaning, but perhaps
premature, as the Malays, being scattered, could not
organize a resistance, and urgent entreaties were
made to the rajah by well-meaning but injudicious
friends, to return and head this movement. He com-
plied, though he knew its futility, and arrived at
Kuching to find the rest of the English flying, the
town in the hands of the Chinese, and smoke rising
in every direction from the burning Malay houses.
It appeared when the news reached the Chinese that
the Malays were preparing for resistance, they deter-
mined to return immediately and attack them before
their preparations were completed. They divided
their forces into two portions, as they were now re-
cruited by several hundreds from the other gold
workings, and had forced all the agriculturists at
Sungei Tangah to join them ; in fact, their great
cargo boats would not hold their numbers, so one-half

352

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

marched down the road leading from the fields I
have mentioned, near the little hill of Stapok, while
the rest came by river.

As soon as the Malays saw the Chinese boats
rounding the point, they boldly dashed at them, forced
them to the river’s banks, drove out the crews, and
triumphantly captured ten of the largest. The
Chinese, better armed, kept up a hot fire from the
rising ground, and killed several of the best men
among the Malays, among others abang Gapur,
whose disbelief in his kinsman’s story enabled the
rebels to surprise the town, and who to his last
breath bewailed his fatal mistake ; and one who was
equally to he regretted, our old follower Kasim,
whom I have so often mentioned in the earlier
chapters. The latter lingered long enough to see
the rajah again triumphant, and said he died happy
in knowing it. It was he who, though a good
Mahomedan, and without knowing he was a plagiarist,
used to say, — •“ I would rather be in hell with the
English, than in heaven with you, my own country-
men.” Notwithstanding their losses, the Malays
towed away the boats, fortunately laden with some of
the most valuable booty, and secured them to a large
trading prahu anchored in the centre of the river.
Having thus captured also rsome better arms and
ammunition, they kept up a fire on their enemies who
lined the banks.

In the meantime the rajah arrived opposite the
Chinese quarter, and found a complete panic prevail-
ing, and all those who had preceded him flying in
every direction ; having vainly endeavoured to restore

SECOND RETREAT.

353

a little order, lie returned to carry out his original
intention. He joined the fugitives farther down the
river, and having sent off the ladies and the wounded
to the secure fort of Lingga, under the care of the
bishop and as many Englishmen as he could spare,
he prepared on the following day to take the same
route, in order to obtain a base of operations, and a
secure spot to rally the people and await a fresh
supply of arms. It was sad to think of the mischief
which might happen during this period of enforced
inaction, particularly as the datu bandhar and a
chosen band were still in Kuching anchored in the
centre of the river, and making attacks whenever
they saw a chance. The Chinese were dragging up
heavy guns, and it was evident the Malays could not
hold for many days, and there was now nothing to
defend, as the flames reddened the horizon and the
increasing volumes of smoke told the tale too well
that the town was being destroyed.

With feelings of the most acute distress these few
Englishmen, under their brave leader, put out to sea to
bear away eastward ; when a cry arose among the
men, “ Smoke, smoke, it is a steamer ! ” and sure
enough there was a dark column rising in the air
from a three-masted vessel ; for a moment it was
uncertain which course she was steering, but presently
they distinguished her flag ; it was the Sir Ja??ies
Brooke , the Borneo company’s steamer, standing right
in for the Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak River.
The crew of the rajah’s boat with shouts gave way, and
the prahu wTas urged along with all the power of their
oars, to find the vessel anchored just within the mouth.
vol. ii. 23

354

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

Here, indeed, was a base of operations; the rajah felt
the country was saved. The native boats were taken
in tow, and the reinforcements of Dayaks, who were
already arriving, followed up with eager speed.
What were the feelings of the Chinese when they
saw the smoke, then the steamer, it is not necessary
to conjecture ; they fired one wild volley from every
available gun and musket ; but the balls fell harm-
lessly ; and when the English guns opened on them,
they fled panic-stricken, pursued by the rejoicing
Malays and Dayaks.

Early that morning a large party of Chinese had
crossed from the right to the left bank to burn the half
of the town which had previously escaped ; hut though
they succeeded in destroying the greater portion, they
signed their own death warrant, as the Malays, now
resuming the offensive, seized the remainder of their
boats, and the relentless Dayaks pursued them through
the forests. Notone of that party could have escaped ;
some wandered long in the forests and died of starva-
tion, others were found hanging to the houghs of trees,
preferring death by suicide to the lingering torments
of hunger. All these bodies were afterwards found,
and the natives said on every one of them were from
five to twenty pounds sterling in cash, silver spoons or
forks, or other valuables, the plunder of the English
houses.

Thus was the capital recovered ; the Chinese on the
right bank all fled by the road, and thence retired up
to the fort of Biledah, opposite the town of Siniawan.
The Land Dayaks were all ready assembled under
their different chiefs, and these without one exception

ATTACKS OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

stood faithful to the government, and now rushed in
every direction on the Chinese, driving them from
their villages, and compelling them to assemble and
defend two spots only, Siniawan and Ban, with the
landing places of the latter. The smoke rising in
every direction showed them that the loss they had
inflicted on others was now retaliated on them. The
kunsi had in their blind confidence made no prepa-
rations for an evil day, and it was well known that
their stock of food was small, as everything had been
destroyed except their own stores at T undong, Bau,
and a little at Siniawan, and they were required to
supply all those whom they had forced to join them
from the town and the whole agricultural population.

The harassing life they led must soon have
worn them out without any attacks, as they could no
longer pursue their ordinary occupations, or even
fetch firewood or water without a strong armed party,
as the Dayaks hung about their houses and infested
every spot. It soon became a question of food, and
they found they must either obtain it, or retire
across the border into Sambas. They therefore
collected all their boats and made a foray of eight
miles down the river to Ledah Tanah, and there
threw up a stockade, in which they placed a garrison
of 250 of their picked men, under two of their most
trusted leaders. They put also four guns in

position to sweep the river, and these Chinese
had the best of the government carbines and rifles
there. They also sacked a few of the Dayak farm-
houses, and one party made a hold attempt to reach
the rajah’s cottage at Peninjau, to which I have

23—2

356

TIlE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

referred in my chapter on the Dayaks of the right-
hand branch.

But the villagers of Sirambau, Bombok, and Penin-
jau assembled in force, threw up stockades across the
steep path, and successfully defended it against the
assailants, who were driven back and pursued with loss.
To check the Chinese and afford assistance to the
Land Dayaks, the rajah sent up the datu bandhar
and a small but select force to wait his arrival below
the Chinese stockade, but the gallant bandhar, on
being joined by the datu tumanggong and abang
Buyong, and a few Sakarang Dayaks, dashed at the
fort, surprised the garrison at dinner, and carried
it without the loss of a man ; the Chinese threw
away their arms and fled into the jungle, to be pur-
sued by the Sakarang Dayaks ; stockade, guns, stores,
and boats, all were captured, and, what was of equal
importance, the two principal instigators of the rebel-
lion were killed.

As soon as a few of the fugitives reached the fort
at Beledah a panic seized the Chinese, and they
fled to Bau, where they made preparations to retire
into Sambas. The rajah, who was hurrying up to
the support of the bandhar, hearing of his success,
despatched Mr. Johnson with the light division to
harass the enemy, and the advance parties of his Sea
Dayaks were on them immediately, but the Chinese
being well provided with fire-arms were enabled to
retire in tolerable order, from a few miles beyond
Bau to the foot of the Gombang range, along the
good path which, as I have before mentioned, they
had constructed ; but every now and then the active

CRITICAL POSITION.

35 7

Dayaks made a rush from the thick brushwood which
borders the path, and spread confusion and dismay,
hut the Chinese had every motive to act a manly
part, as they had to defend above a thousand of their
women and children who encumbered their disastrous
flight.

At the foot of the steep hill of Gombang they
made a halt, for the usual path was found to be
well stockaded, and a resolute body of Malays and
Dayaks were there to dispute the way. It was a
fearful position ; behind them the pursuers were
gathering in increasing strength, and unless they
forced this passage within an hour they must all die
or surrender. At last some one, it is said a Sambas
Malay, suggested that there was an upper path,
which, though very steep, was yet practicable ; this
was undefended, and the fugitives made towards it.

The Sarawak Malays and Dayaks, too late seeing
their error in neglecting to fortify this also, rushed up
the edge of the hill, and drove back the foremost
Chinese ; their danger was extreme ; at that moment,
as if by inspiration, all the young Chinese girls rushed
to the front and encouraged the men to advance, which
they again did, and cheered by the voices of these
brave girls who followed them close, clapping their
hands, and calling to them by name to fight bravely,
they won the brow of the hill, and cleared the path
of their less numerous foes. They were but just in
time, as the pursuers were pressing hotly on the rear-
guard, and the occasional volley of- musketry told
them that the well-armed Malays were upon them ;
but they were now comparatively safe, as they soon

258 THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

cleared the Sarawak borders, and, although a few
pursued them, the main body of the Malays and
Dayaks halted on the Gombang range.

The miserable fugitives, reduced to two thousand,
of whom above a half were women and children, sat
down among the houses of the village of Sidin, and
many of them it is said wept not only for the loss of
friends and goods they had suffered from the insensate
ambition of the kunsi, but that they must give up all
hope of ever returning to their old peaceful homes.
The kunsi, which on the night of the surprise had num-
bered six hundred men, were now reduced to a band
of about a hundred, but these kept well together, and
were better armed than the others, and formed the
principal guard of the Taipekong, or sacred stone,
which they had through all their disasters preserved
inviolate.

Several times the assailants, who mistook it for the
gold chest, had nearly captured it, but on the cry
being raised that the Taipekong was in peril, the men
gathered round and carried it securely through all
danger. But here at Sidin, all immediate apprehen-
sion being over, the discontent of those who had been
forced to join the rebels burst forth without control,
so that from words they soon came to blows, and the
small band of the kunsi’s men was again reduced by
thirty or forty from the anger of their countrymen.
Continuing their disorderly retreat, they were met by
the officers of the Dutch government, who very pro-
perly took from them all their plunder and arms, and
being uncertain which was their own property, erred
on the safe side by stripping them of everything.

FORCES OF THE SARAWAK GOVERNMENT. 359

Thus terminated the most absurd and causeless
rebellion that ever occurred, which, during its conti-
nuance, displayed every phase of Chinese character :
arrogance, secrecy, combination, an utter incapability
of looking to the consequences of events or actions,
and a belief in their own power and courage, which
every event belied. The Chinese never have fought
even decently, and yet till the very moment of trial
comes they act as if they were invincible.

I think this insurrection shows that though the
Chinese require watching, they are not in any way
formidable as an enemy, and it also proves how firmly
the Sarawak government is rooted in the hearts of
the people, since in the darkest hour there was no
whisper of infidelity. Ilad the Chinese been five
times as numerous, there were forces in the back-
ground which would have destroyed them all. Before
the Chinese had fled across the border thousands of
Seribas and Sakaranff Davaks had arrived, and the
people of Sadong were marching overland to attack
them in rear, while the distant out stations were
mustering strong forces, which arrived only to find all
danger past.

I almost believe it was worth all the disaster to
show how uniform kindness and generous conside-
ration are appreciated by the Malays and Dayaks,
and how firmly they may become attached to a govern-
ment which, besides having their true interests at
heart, encourages and requires all its officers to treat
them as equals. The conduct of the Malay fortmen,
of Kasim and Gapur, the generous enthusiasm of
abang Fatah, and the gallant rush at Kedah

360

TIIE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

Tanali stockade by the bandhar and bis forces, show
what the rajah has effected during his tenure of
power. He has raised the character of the Malay,
and turned a lawless race into some of the best
conducted people in the world.

I must add that the results of the Chinese insur-
rection were very curious in a financial point of view ;
though above three thousand five hundred men were
killed or driven from the countrv, yet the revenue
rose instead of falling, which proves what an exten-
sive system of smuggling had been carried on. The
breaking up of the kunsi was felt by all the natives
as a great relief ; and if the Chinese were to increase
to ten times their former numbers, there would not
be the slightest danger if ordinary precautions were
taken, and if there were stringent rules well carried
out to prevent them either forming extensive com-
panies, or proper measures pursued to crush all
attempts at banding themselves into secret societies.

The Dutch authorities who formerly suffered so
much from that very formidable association, the
great gold kunsi of Montrado, are now free from
all anxiety, as they no longer permit the Chinese
to form companies more numerous than may prove
sufficient to dcvelope a single working, and the same
system is at present pursued in Sarawak. It is not at
all surprising that those Chinese who were forced to
join in the insurrection under threats of the vengeance
of the kunsi, should look back with regret to the quiet
days they spent whilst cultivating the fertile soil
around Stapok or Suhgei Tahgah, and should now
petition for permission to return to Sarawak, which

DUTCH ASSISTANCE.

361

they do. However, the regulation I have before
mentioned as in force in the Sambas territories,
prevents their leaving, as they cannot readily gather
together the six pounds sterling necessary, and if they
remove they like to do so in a body, but small parties
of fugitives occasionally arrive. It is worthy of re-
mark, that a few days after the insurrection, boats
full of armed Chinese arrived from Sambas to inquire
whether Sarawak were not now in the hands of
their countrymen, and were proceeding up to join
them, but were easily driven back and destroyed by
the Malays, who, in a cause which they have at heart,
are more than a match for treble their number of
Chinese.

The Dutch authorities hearing of the rebellion in
Sarawak sent round a steamer with a party of soldiers
to the assistance of the authorities, but fortunately
by that time all danger was passed, and as soon as
possible after tbe receipt of the news, Sir William
Iloste, who has always shown so intelligent an interest
in Bornean affairs, sailed for Sarawak in H. M. S.
Spartan.

The news of the insurrection reached me after a
very long delay, as the first intimation I had of it was
through a letter from Mr. Ruppell, dated Singapore,
as he had left Sarawak after the failure of the
Sunday attack, and I was kept in suspense for above
a week, when a more rapid sailing-vessel brought me
the news that Sir James Brooke had triumphed.

I went down to Sarawak by the first opportunity, and
reached it in J uly, to find everything proceeding appa-
rently as if no insurrection had occurred. Though

362

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

the Malay town had been burnt down, yet the inha-
bitants had soon recovered their energy, and had built
their houses again, which, though not so substantial
as the former ones, still looked very neat. Some
things were missed in the landscape, and the hand-
some government house with its magnificent library,
had disappeared ; Mr. Crookshank’s and Mr. Middle-
ton’s houses were also gone, and, with the exception
of the rajah, they were the principal sufferers, as the
Chinese had had no time to destroy either the church or
the mission-house, or the Borneo company’s premises,
and although they all suffered losses from pilferers, yet
they were comparatively trivial, when placed in com-
parison to that noble library, which was once the
pride of Sarawak.

I found, as I had expected, that the loss of worldly
goods had had little effect on the ruler of the
country, who was as cheerful and contented in his
little comfortless cottage, as he had ever been in the
government house. His health, which before was not
strong, had been wonderfully improved by his great
exertions to endeavour to restore the country to its
former state, and I never saw him more full of bodilv
energy and mental vigour than during the two
months I spent at Sarawak in 185/. Everybody
took their tone from their leader, and there were
no useless regrets over losses, and it was amusing to
hear the congratulations of the Malay chiefs, “ Ah,
Mr. St. John, you were born under a fortunate star
to leave Sarawak just before the evil days came upon
us.” Then they would laughingly recount the personal
incidents which had occurred to themselves, and tell

DANGERS FROM THE SECRET SOCIETIES.

3 63

with great amusement the shifts they were put to for
want of every household necessary. There was a
cheerfulness and a hope in the future which promised
well for the country.

There is at the present time a branch of the Tien
Ti Hue, established in our colony of Labuan, and last
August its meeting-house was discovered in the depths
of the forest, but none of its members were caught
unlawfully assembling, though all its chief officers are
well known to the police, and as Lahuan is a penal
settlement for Chinese convicts, the evil of permitting
the secret societies to continue is obvious.

The danger to be apprehended from the secret
societies is that all the members are handed together
by the most solemn oaths, and under the penalty
of death, not to divulge one of its secrets, and to aid
and assist its members under every circumstance ; to
bear no witness against them, whatever may be their
crimes, to shield fugitives from the laws of the
country, and lastly to carry out the orders of their
chiefs, whatever may be the consequences. In Singa-
pore murdered men were formerly often found with
the mark of the secret societies upon them, and the
ordinary operations of the law are insufficient to meet
these cases. In fact, when any of their members are
brought to trial, the wealth of these great societies is
sufficient to enable them to engage the services of the
best advocates, and to bribe most of the witnesses, and
the Singapore government has been thwarted in its
efforts to put down the secret societies, and to prevent
pirate junks arming in the harbours, by the techni-
calities of judges totally unacquainted with the con-

364

THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.

dition of eastern society, and by the perseverance of
some of the lawyers there, who consider it right to
defend those curses to the country by every means
which arc placed within their reach, by laws intended
to meet the requirements of a highly civilized people
like the English, and not a wild gathering from a
hundred different countries, such as is to he found in
Singapore.

Not to interrupt the narrative, I have not before
noticed that during the height of the insurrection,
when the rebels had only been driven from the town
a few days, news came that several hundred Chinese
fugitives from the Dutch territories had crossed the
borders towards the sources of the left-hand branch
of the Sarawak, and were seeking the protection of
the Sarawak government. Though harassed by in-
cessant work, the rajah did not neglect their appeal,
hut immediately despatched trustworthy men, who
safely piloted them through the excited Dayaks, who
thought that every man who “ wore a tail” ought now
to be put to death. No incident could better illus-
trate the great influence possessed by the rajah over
the Dayaks and Malays, and his thoughtful care of
the true interests of the country, during even the
most trying circumstances.

3G5

CHAPTER XIV.

TIIE MISSIONS : ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

Arrival of the Roman Catholic Mission in Labuan — Signor Cuarteron
its head — Curious reports — His real history — Finding the
Treasure — Turns Priest — Ostensible object of the Mission —
Not attempted — Ease with which Captives could escape — No
Inclination to do so — Turned Mahomedans — Return of Signor
Cuarteron — Courtesy of the Brunei Government — Intentions of
the Italian Priest — Model Village — The Italian Priests — The
Churches — Old Battery — Regret at the withdrawal of the
Roman Catholic Mission — Protestant Mission at Sarawak —
Present Condition — Comparative Failure — Partial Success at
Lingga and Lundu — Mr. Chalmers and the Land Dayaks —
Causes of his Influence — Mistake in establishing the Mission at
Kuching — The Reasons — Objectionable Position for Schools —
Proper Position for the Mission — Suitable spots — Waste of
Funds in Boats and Plantations — Deplorable Secession of
Missionaries — Reasons to account for it — Present Management
faulty — Mr. Gomez in Lundu — Christian Dayaks warn the
Government — Missionaries always welcome in Sarawak — Im-
portant political effect — The Church should be among the
Dayaks — Suitable Men for Missionaries — What the Head of
a Mission should be — What he too often is, and should not be
— Five Recommendations to increase Efficiency — Unoccupied
Room for a great Increase of the Number of Missionaries —
Method of distributing them — Personal Character — Dayaks an
interesting Race — A Tribe half Mahomedans half Pagans —
Use of eating Pork — Districts unoccupied — Position of the
Missionary in Sarawak — The Bornean Mission an important
one.

I will first notice the Roman Catholic, as it has
proved of the least importance ; and perhaps I shall
best explain its complete failure by giving an account
of its chief.

366 THE MISSIONS : ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

In the spring of the year 1857, a Roman Catholic
mission arrived at our colony of Labuan. Its prin-
cipal, Signor Cuarteron, a Spaniard, soon became an
object of interest, from the various reports that were
spread respecting his previous life, and from its
becoming generally known that he was the possessor
of great wealth acquired by extraordinary means.
Strange stories were soon afloat, which wrould have
done more credit to his adventurous spirit than to his
honesty : it was asserted — and with truth — that the
Manilla government had once set a price upon his
head ; and absurd whispers were abroad that he had
been concerned in the slave-trade, and in buccaneer-
ing pursuits.

I have often heard him tell his own story, and it is
a curious one. He had noticed a ship loading treasure
in Hongkong harbour, and accidentally heard after-
wards that a wreck had been seen on a certain shoal
in the China seas which answered the description of
the treasure ship : he went there and recovered a
large amount of silver. He took it to Hongkong,
and ultimately, there being no claimants, received
the whole. Some of his enemies in Manilla took
offence at his not bringing it to his own port, and
accused him of having committed acts of piracy
during the time he was engaged trading in the isles
farther east. He heard of this charge while cruising
in the Sulu seas, passing the necessary time before
the treasure would be adjudged to him. Distrusting
colonial justice, and to avoid pursuit, he burnt his
vessel and escaped in a native boat. After some
months all charges were withdrawn, and he returned

SIGNOR CUARTERON.

367

to Europe, and presenting himself before the Pope,
explained his desire to found and manage a mission
in Borneo. He was permitted to do so, and remained
in Home some years, in order to study, and after
visiting Spain and Manilla, at last reached Labuan,
with four Italian priests, two destined for the Bornean
mission. I need not comment on the singularity of
some parts of this history.

He placed one of the priests at Brunei, the other
at Labuan, while he himself commanded a station at
Gaya Bay. His principal object in establishing the
mission was, he said, to recover from slavery those
poor Christian brethren who, having been captured
by pirates, had been sold on the north-west coast of
Borneo. They are there doubtless, but he never
appears to have made a sensible effort to free them.
There are three hundred in Brunei, all of whom
could have been obtained at 7/- a head, but I never
heard of his paying but for one old woman. He used
to threaten the Brunei authorities with Spanish
steamers, but I imagine his own Government was
too well aware of the real state of the case to listen
to him. Nine-tenths of the Manilla captives could
be free if they chose, as they might easily escape to
our colony of Labuan, but the fact is, they have inter-
married with the inhabitants and turned Mahome-
dans, and, therefore, will not leave the country,
except under compulsion.

Signor Cuarteron entrusted a large amount of
his funds to the Papal Government, as a permanent
support for his mission, but they have been applied to
the pressing secular needs of the Pope ; and, on my

36S THE MISSIONS : ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

return to Borneo, last year, I found the Italian priests
had left, and nothing of the mission remained but
closed churches and Signor Cuarteron, and that the
funds he had retained in his own hand were being
rapidly dissipated by his own unsuccessful commercial
pursuits. I believe he has since returned to Manilla ;
so that practically the mission has closed. This I
think a very fortunate circumstance, as Signor Cuar-
teron was totally unfit to conduct so important an
undertaking, and his constant intriguing and mixing
in political affairs were productive of serious mischief.

I may add that the courtesy shown bv the autho-
rities of Brunei was exemplary ; they submitted
patiently to language to which they were totally un-
accustomed, and put no obstacles in the way of the
missionaries. The sultan made them a present of a
piece of ground on which they built a church, and
said they might have as much land as their converts
could cultivate. Signor Bipa, the Italian priest who
had charge of this mission, intended to have made it
the nucleus round which those among the Manilla
men who desired to rejoin the Church, might congre-
gate, and his object was to afford them sufficient
assistance to enable them to make gardens round
the church, and support themselves by their agricul-
tural operations. As he was himself well acquainted
with agriculture, being the son of a landed proprietor
living near Lecco, he hoped in time to establish a sort
of model village, and a superior kind of cultivation.

All the Italian priests who came with this mission
were from Milan, and had an interesting story to tell,
as they had all been engaged in the effort to throw

CATHOLIC MISSION.

369

off the yoke of Austria in 1848. Two had carried
muskets, and two had attended to the wounded on
the field. The eldest, Signor Reyna, appeared to me
to be one of those remarkable men occasionally found
among the missionaries of the Romish Church, of the
most pleasing manners, winning address, and acute
mind, and yet he was sent with four companions to
New Guinea, where three of them were killed and
eaten by the inhabitants, while he escaped in shat-
tered health to die shortly afterwards.

The church in Brunei was built on a remarkable
headland called Brambangan, where formerly was
erected a battery to play upon the boats of Sir Thomas
Cochrane’s squadron, and where even now may be
seen the iron guns thrown down the bank by the
marines and blue jackets, but rendered useless by
having their trunnions knocked off. The church looks
well amid the pretty hills that rise around it. At
Labuan a church was also commenced, but I believe
never quite finished ; and at Gaya Bay, the chapel
when I saw it consisted of a little leaf house, which
would not last a couple of years. No difficulty ap-
pears to have been thrown in the way of the mission,
even in these distant stations ; in fact, the people
believing that all Europeans are under the protection
of England would never think of injuring them.

In many respects it is to be regretted that the
Roman Catholic mission was not more fortunate in
its head, and that the funds should have failed, as
though we must all be anxious to extend the influence
of the English Church throughout the world, yet it
is better the natives should be Roman Catholics than

24

VOL. II.

370 THE MISSIONS : ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

remain in their present low state of civilization.
Nothing hut Christianity can alter the real condition
of the people, as that only will turn their minds in a
new direction and free them from practices and hahits
which keep the country poor and undeveloped. Some
enterprising missionaries who would abandon all
regular communication with the world, and establish
themselves in the upper Trusan, among the Adangs,
far from all Mahomedan influence, and beyond the
reach of the Malay government, might have even a
greater effect than those Roman Catholic missionaries
had, whom Dr. Barton mentions having met in the
far interior of the Yang-tse-kiang, during that enter-
prising expedition under Colonel Sarel.

I will now make a few remarks on the Protestant
Mission, which left England in 1847, to establish
itself in Sarawak. I think the object so very im-
portant, even regarded solely from a political point of
view, that I shall not hesitate freely to explain what
I think the causes of its comparative failure. Its
condition, when I left Borneo in September, 1861,
was this : Mr. Koch, and a schoolmaster, Mr. Owen,
superintended the head mission at Kuching ; Mr.
Chambers was at his station at Lingga, and
Mr. Gomez at Lundu, both Sea Dayak tribes ; while
Mr. Chalmers was at Quop, but had given notice of
his intention to quit the country at the end of the
year, and now he has left.

Mr. Chambers and Mr. Gomez, though their
actually baptized converts are not numerous, have
done great good at their respective stations. It is
not generally a just course to reckon results by the

. *

mp

'

PROTESTANT MISSION.

371

number of converts in a tribe, as the majority may be
almost prepared to join the church, though kept back
from a variety of motives. And this I believe to be
practically the case at both these stations, but espe-
cially at Lundu.

The Borneo mission has been fortunate in securing
these men, as they appear thoroughly to act on
what should be the guiding principle of a missionary
— that once he has entered on the profession, he
should not be turned to other paths, or forsake his
work on account of personal fears or petty annoy-
ances. Of the numbers who have joined this mission
but four remain.

Mr. Chalmers is the only one who has attempted
the task of converting the Land Dayaks, and also the
only one who ever made the slightest progress in
their language. He was beginning to have a great
influence over the Quop Dayaks, even inducing the
girls to attend his school, and in a short time, I
believe, would have brought to baptism the whole of
this section of the Santah Dayaks. I hear they sin-
cerely regret his departure ; and well they may, as it
will be difficult to find another so suited to the work.
He had an aptitude for learning languages, a genuine
kindliness of disposition, and with ability to have
ultimately influenced the whole Land Dayaks through
his converts at the Quop.

His influence partly arose from his determination
not only to live among them, but to speak to them in
their own language. Most of our intercourse with
these people is carried on in the manner in which a
Frenchman would speak to a Spaniard through the

24—2

3/2 THE MISSIONS: ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

means of imperfect English. It is impossible properly
to explain religion through such a channel. Some of
the Dayaks, hut comparatively few, speak Malay well.

I am afraid a summary of results will show that
little has been yet done towards christianizing the
Davaks of the Sarawak districts, and this failure
has, I believe, arisen from many causes : among
others, from the position of the head mission, and
from a mistaken view of the way in which it should
he conducted.

I am not aware of the exact amount granted to the
Borneo mission, but it appears to a looker-on that
the greater portion is expended in keeping up the
staff and disbursements for the head mission at
Kuching, which does not, in fact, much influence the
missionary work. Kuchiim is a town almost exclu-
sively composed of Mahomedan Malays and Budhist
Chinese ; and the only effect of establishing the
mission among the former is to have rendered them
more zealous Mabomedans. Before the arrival of the
clergy, the mosque was nearly deserted, now it is
crowded. The same effect followed the arrival of the
Catholic priests at Brunei. It may be better for
men to be earnest in a mistaken religion than luke-
warm ; but to arouse their zeal will not assist our
efforts to spread Christianity.

The Chinese are almost impassible to the mis-
sionaries’ doctrines, and always must be so, while their
teaching is through interpreters, or the medium of a
foreign language.

The pretty church, the expensive and uncom-
fortable mission-house, the schools, are all interesting

OBJECTIONABLE POSITION OF KUCIIING. 373

objects at Kuching, but they do not further the work
among the aborigines.

There is another great objection to the present
position of the schools : it is too close to the trading
town, and the children are consequently exposed to
every temptation ; in fact, the girls’ school was
entirely ruined; and the boys must be injured by
the constant contact with the vicious among their
countrymen. Since I left last year, the Government
have established a girls’ school in a situation that
promises greater success.

The proper position for a mission undertaken to
christianize the Land Dayaks should be among them,
not twenty miles from the nearest tribe. If the head
mission had been established at San Pro, on the left-
hand branch of the Sarawak — and what lovelier
position could be desired ? — or about Siniawan, on
the right-hand branch, I believe I should have had
very different results to record.

It would not have been a popular recommendation
to banish the bishop of Labuan and his staff from
the charming society that was always to be found at
Kuching to what would have been called the wilds
of the interior ; but they would not have been in so
isolated a position as the Government officers who
live in the out-stations, San Pro being within four
hours’ pull of the capital.

At Kuching, a chaplain is required to perform the
services of our Church for the Europeans resident
there, but this clergyman should be paid from some
special fund by Government, or by the inhabitants,
and not from the allowance to the Bornean mission.

374 THE MISSIONS: HOMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

I have mentioned that there are at present three
stations besides Kuching where missionaries are esta-
blished. The first is Lingga, which requires a
coasting voyage of thirty miles ; the second, Lundu,
which in rough weather may be reached by inland
water passages ; and the third is the Quop, a branch
of the Sarawak.

None of these stations necessitates the expensive
modes of communication adopted : there was, first, a
life-boat, which proved useless ; then the “ Sarawak
Cross” was bought and fitted up at an expense of
1,200/., to be sold for a third of its cost ; and now I
hear another life-boat is to be purchased. The last
kind is neither so safe for a shore voyage, nor so
comfortable as a well fitted up native prahu, which
would cost less than 20/. All this appears to be a
great waste of the mission funds. It was necessary
for Bishop Selwyn to have a schooner in New Zealand,
as he had many islands to visit ; but the Bornean
Mission does not require it.

I have heard that several missionaries are on their
way out. If these be kept at Kuching, or sent to
the very distant out-stations, they will prove nearly
useless, as in these positions there is no familiar inter-
course with the natives on account of a variety of
circumstances. Efforts should be concentrated,
not scattered ; and the best way of influencing the
Dayaks is to let the missionaries proceed to their
villages and learn their language. There are fifty
thousand Land Dayaks in Sarawak, Samarahan, and
Sadong, who have not a missionary among them, and
any work undertaken there will yield good results.

DISCONTENT OF MISSIONARIES.

375

I am not anxious to find fault with past mis-
management, but to recommend to the bishop of
Labuan and the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel, the abandonment of a system which has proved
a failure. If I rightly understand the intention in
establishing the mission, it was to endeavour to
spread Christianity among the Dayaks, and this has
not been as yet fairly attempted. I believe one of the
reasons for the deplorable secession of men who had
acquired some knowledge of the language and the
people, was keeping them too much at Kuching.
They wanted to have a home of their own among the
Dayaks, where a personal interest could be created,
where their work would be clear to them, and where
their efforts would produce results.

Ten missionaries out of fourteen have abandoned
their duties in Borneo, and it is most probable that
few of them would have left had a defined work been
placed before them, and had they been told to consider
a certain tribe, or a certain group of tribes, as their
own to manage ; — in fact, placing them in a similar
position to a clergyman in his parish in England.

I think this plan should be well weighed before
it is rejected, as in two instances it has been partially
tried, and has in some degree succeeded, as at Lundu
and Lingga.

That the present management is decidedly faulty,
may be gathered from this, that of all the officers in
the Sarawak government service who have been em-
ployed there during the last fourteen years, I only
know of one who has abandoned his position, and that
one under peculiar circumstances ; while, as I have

376 THE MISSIONS: ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

said, five-sevenths of the missionaries have left their
posts, though their work is not harder, certainly not
nearly so dangerous as that of the officers, and is as
Avell paid.

I am quite sure that a missionary placed as
Mr. Gomez is, among an interesting people like the
Sibuyaus of Lundu, Avould never think of abandoning
them, unless from being disheartened by ill-considered
and unnecessary interference. He has acquired a great
influence among them, and is personally liked by the
whole tribe. I have heard the Dayak Chief speak of
him with the greatest respect, saying, “ He is to us as
our father — he watches over us, and does everything
to produce unanimity among us.” It was one of the
Lundu converted Dayaks who in the year 1859 first
gave notice to the Government that some discon-
tented, discarded Malay chiefs were hatching plots
against the Europeans.

At Lingga, also, one of Mr. Chambers’s Dayak
friends sent the same warning ; and this leads me
to the consideration of what a change it would effect
in Sarawak if the mass of the Dayaks were Christians.
The Sarawak government officers are fully alive to
this, and the missionary is heartily welcomed at every
station, and every assistance and encouragement given
him that can be done without awakening the jealousy
of the Mahomedans. Care, of course, is necessary
where a government rules all religions, and depends
for its principal support on the Malays. If a few
thousand Dayaks wrere Christians, they wrould become
the mainstay of the Europeans.

It has been partially forgotten that the Dayak will

MISSIONARY DIFFICULTIES.

3 77

not generally come and ask to be converted, particu-
larly if it involves a journey of twenty miles. The
missionary must be with him always, understand his
ways and his language, feel an interest in his local
affairs, and assist him with his matured advice.

With regard to the missionaries themselves, they
should not only be earnest men, but have a practical
acquaintance with the woi*ld, and this knowledge
cannot be better obtained than at Oxford, Cambridge,
and our other universities. Medical acquirements are
also of singular use to the missionary. The present
bishop of Labuan possesses them to a remarkable
extent ; and I, among the other Englishmen who have
dwelt in Sarawak, have to thank him for a patient
and skilful attendance.

Perhaps no position is more difficult than that of
the head of a mission ; it requires the greatest tact,
the calmest temper, the most complete government of
tongue, a generous enthusiasm to warm the enthu-
siasm of others, a knowledge in the management of
men and things, rarely found. I have heard that the
bishops of New Zealand and Columbia answer to my
description. Too often men otherwise estimable,
when they are placed in authority, become overbear-
ing, coarse in their manner towards subordinates,
hasty in temper, uncertain in arrangement, and un-
generous to the foibles of their associates ; and, if
to these unfortunate qualities be added a systematic
disparagement of the work done by others, unwar-
ranted expressions about their neighbours, and con-
tinued and unnecessary absence from their posts on
trifling pretexts, much injury must be done to the

378 THE MISSIONS: ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

missions placed under their care, and would account
for the failure of many.

In thus publishing my own opinion of the mission,
I am but giving the result of the experience of a
looker-on, who has no practical acquaintance with the
management or working of religious societies ; but
as a disinterested observer, I have made some recom-
mendations which cannot at once be followed, though
all may be in time.

First. The head mission should be placed among
the Dayak tribes, and a chaplain left at Kuching, as
work, not society, should be the object aimed at.

Second. The schools should be removed from the
contaminating influence of the town, and the left-
hand branch of the river offers suitable spots.

Third. The missionaries should be placed in re-
sponsible positions over certain tribes, and with the
same kind of authority as a clergyman in a parish at
home.

Fourth. The bishop should not interfere with the
internal management of the local mission and the
local schools, more than is at present done in
England.

Fifth. The funds should not be dissipated in buying
useless boats, or in trying to keep up abortive planta-
tions, on which already large sums have been wasted.
Enough has been lost to have built a church and
missionary house in every section of Sarawak.

If these recommendations be stringently carried
out at the first opportunity, there may be yet a bright
future for the Sarawak Mission, which is, without
doubt, one of the most interesting in the world.

MORE MISSIONARIES NEEDED.

379

I would earnestly draw attention to the fact that
there is unoccupied room for missionaries in nearly
all the rivers. Mr. Gomez does his duty well at
Lundu, hut there are not perhaps more than a
thousand Dayaks there. Mr. Chambers at Lingga
has probably seven thousand around him, and requires
assistance to enable him to influence the whole tribe.
There remain, therefore, nearly two hundred thousand
Dayaks without a teacher among them, and there
would be work there for a hundred missionaries. I
am, however, convinced that spreading your strength
is comparative weakness. The ground should be
gradually occupied ; and when one tribe had its teacher,
it should not be considered enough to influence all the
surrounding ones ; but as the missionaries arrived, they
should be sent to the very next tribe, and not away a
hundred miles. The teaching would then act and
react : the Dayaks would take an interest in com-
paring the ways and methods of their different
pastors ; and once awaken an interest, half the work
is done.

One missionary left among a large population is
lost. I have heard it said that occasional preaching
in a tribe would do great good. I think not. In-
fluence in the East depends on the personal character ;
but even defects may, and would he overlooked if the
missionary showed a real interest in the affairs of his
people, and this can only be displayed by one who
has acquired his knowledge by continued and familiar
intercourse with the tribe.

I think those who have read my chapters on the
Dayaks will not fail to observe that they are an

380 THE MISSIONS : ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.

improvable race ; that they do not possess any super-
stitions or beliefs likely to offer great obstacles to
Christian teaching. If I have not created an interest
in them, the fault is mine, not theirs.

Another point is worthy of attention. In the
districts lately ceded to Sarawak, there is a curious
population of Milanaus, half of them Mahomedans,
the other half Pagans. They live together in the
same villages, and probably their conversion is but
skin-deep. At all events, the rest have refused to
join the Islamites, as pork would then be forbidden.
It is a great satisfaction to all the Dayaks, Kayans,
and unconverted Milanaus, that the English, the
superior and governing race, indulge in the flesh
of the prohibited animal : they often talk of it with
pleasure.

Within the territory of Sarawak there are, as I
have said, many districts totally unoccupied — as
Samarahan and Sadong, with its population of Land
Dayaks. And the branches of the great river Batang
Lupar, occupied by Sea Dayaks, are all free to new-
comers, except Lingga. The Scribas, the Kalaka,
the Bejang, and the rivers flowing out of the hundred
and thirty miles of coast between the last and Bintulu,
arc totally untouched by the missionaries.

What a field it offers to brave and earnest men !
No officer who has dwelt among these people has
left them wdthout regret : the desertion of so many
missionaries must be ascribed to defects of manage-
ment rather than to dislike of the country. In
Sarawak missionaries possess this great advantage,
ihat thev associate freelv, and of course on terms of

POSITION OF THE MISSIONARY IN SARAWAK. 381

tlie most perfect equality with all the officers of the
government, an advantage which I have heard said is
not extended to them in India. It is useful in many
ways, as it shows the Dayaks that all the English
take a warm interest in their religious welfare ; and
the very fact that many of the missionaries have
accompanied the government officers on their official
tours has not been lost on these tribes.

I may repeat that I am not sufficiently acquainted
with the practical working of our great Religious
Societies to know what action could be taken on this
question, hut I am convinced it is an important one,
and that all missionaries who go to convert the
Dayak, and spread our religion in Borneo, will he
heartily welcomed hy the Sarawak government.

-

'

APPENDICES

APPENDIX A.

DAYAK LANGUAGES.

SAMBAS TO BATANG LUPAR.

In forwarding me the four vocabularies which I now insert,
the Rev. William Chalmers mentioned that the Lara people
say they came originally from the neighbourhood of Brunei,
the capital.

Note.

C£ The Sarawak Land Dyak is in the dialect of the Sentah
tribe. The u of this tribe is changed into “ o ” in the other
tribes of the river Sarawak. Sentah River is a tributary of
the southern branch of the Upper Sarawak.

“ The Sadong Dayak is the dialect spoken by the tribes on
the river Kadup, a tributary of the Upper Sadong.

“ The Lara is a tribe of Upper Sambas, part of which now
resides on the Upper Lundu.”

((

e

= English a.

e

= English e in met.

u

= French u.

u

= English u in cub.

au

= ow in now.

ai

= English i.

ei

= English ay in 1 ay.

o

= aw in law.

ch final = German ch.”

384

APPENDICES

Able

Across (rive
Acquainted
[wi

Afraid

Agree

Alligator

Ant

Angry

Above

All

Ask (beg)
Ask (enquire)
llathe
Below
Before

Behind

Beads

Black

Bird

Blood

Blind

Break (in two

Breathe

Burn

Bad

Boy

Bachelor

Brave

Bridge

Body (Human
Head
Forehead
Cheeks
Eye

Eyebrow

Eyelash

Nose

Nostrils

Mouth

Teeth

Tongue

Throat

Ear

Chin

Hair of head
Neck
Side

Shoulder
Breast
Back
Belly
Posterior
Loins

SARAWAK.

SADONG.

LARA.

SIBUTAU.

shaun

inshaun

kaiin

bulih

) kadipa

sisa

pahja

sebrang

kunyet

umpuon

numparu

tau

taru

teroun

buut

takut

bepaiyu

janggi

bepusun

berjanji

buai

buoi

buro

gaiyau

subi

subi

sube

semut

boji

derocli

baji

hing-at

p bura

mungkat

kias

dani

ts ilau

irau

aro

atap

sombu

sombu

samo

atas

perug

Samoa

suman-man

Samoa

mite

minta

mahi

minta

sikyen

pusik

masikan

tanya

matnuch

ngumon

mamu

mandi

ribo, sogan

sigan

saroch

dibahoa

diu

taiyu

uru

dulu

[ di kunang
| di sundich

di kunang )
di sundich j

buntot

dudi

tumbis

tumbis

tumi

marek

singut

bihis

sungut

chelurn

manuk

manok

manuk

burong

deya

deya

daya

daha

kerak

bukap

buta

buta

putah

putah

patah

patah

ngashung

ngashung

misingat

sip u at

mupun

nyahu

nyahu, ninu

tunoh

arap

bcek

jahe

jai

anak kunya

anak kunya

k an got

anak biak

bujang

bujang

bujang

bujang

pogan

pogan

pagan

brani

teboiyan

unyan

titi

andau

1 puriina:, tibu

tibo

ungan

tuboh

ubak

bale

abak

pala

aru

deich

kaning

dai

punding

pumpi

koko

koyu

betuch

matuch

matu

mata

buruch kuning burucli kuning

burun rimin

bulu kaniang

buruch kirat

kilat matuch

burun matu

bulu mata

unugn

undung

dudugn

idong

rubang un-

rubang un-

rubang du-

lubang idong

[ugn

[dung

[dugn

boba

boba

boba

mulut

jipuch

jipun

japu

gigi

jura

jile

rata

dila

gunggong

tegunggong

gangogn

batang hu-

rajak

[koang

kojit

kuping

pundiang

seraka

raiii ig

rang

dagu

ubok

buruch

abok

buak

tungo

kuko

jangok

hukoang

tigang

tigabang

silet

husua

kowin

kowi

kal

bauh

sudo

ishuk

sado

dada

punok

jaju

rutuk

blakang

tain

putong

putugn

pahut

kunang

pumpi kunang

rabat

buhiat

kupong

kupong

apagn

punggoang

APPENDICES

385

—

SARAWAK.

SADONG.

LARA.

SIBUYAU.

Human Body:
continued —

Arm — shoul-

pupung

pumpong

barangu

buah langan

dertoelbow

Do. — elbow

bireng

brungo

baregn

langan

to wrist

Elbow

sukuch

sikuch

siku

siku

Hand

tungan

tungan

baregn

jahi

Fingers

trinyu

buah tungan

trinyo

tunjoa

Nails

siruch

siruch

siru

kuku

Wrist

brungo

ung-gum

ladak

angg-am

Thumb

sindu tungan

indu tungan

indu baregn

tunjoa indu

Thigh

puuch

puuch

pa

pa

Calf

bites

bites

batis

betis

Foot

kuja

kuja

kuja

kaki

Ancle

buku siok

tulang lcelali

matu dudegn

buku ale

Knee

bak karub

bak tuod

tukugn

pala patoang

Heel

tiga

peniga

tigak

tumit

Palm

pura tungan

pupach tungan

parapa baregn

tapa jahi

Lips

bibich

bibich

bibich

mulut

Flesh

ishin

isi

inshin

isi

Bones

turang

tulang

turang

tulang

Navel

pushid

pushid

pusat

pusat

Knuckle

buku tungan

bukuck tungan

raka

buku tunjoa

Sole

pura kuja

pupach kuja

parapa kuia

tapa kaki

Skin

kurit

kulit

kurit

kulit

Beasts: —

Deer (rusa)

paiyu

paiyu

anyung

rusa

Monkey

oyung

kara

kara

kara

(kra)

Dog

kushong

kosho

kashu

asu

Cat

bushing

sengau

uching

maiau

Pig, domestic

aiy5

pongan

uwe

babi humali

Pig, jungle

pongan

laba

lauk

babi kampong

Iiat

babu

babu, jupor
mungkud

tikus

tikus

Cough (to)

mokud

mukut

batbalc

Come

rnenug

monug

utung

datei

Cold

mudud

bubi, madud

sangu

chilap

Cry out

nai kiak

siak

ngampak

nyawa

Cry (weep)

sien

nungis

munse

nyabak

Cook

tanuk

nunuk

nanuk

nyumai

Companion

dingan

dingan

age

pangan

Commit adul-

tungach

nyowang

bebaiyu

bambai

[tery

Covet

lipong

kilek

murun

dika

Cut

kapug

kapug

muniagn

putus

Come out

ruach

luach

mungkas

pansut

Dress : —

J acket

jipo

boj uch

jupo

baju

Head-dress

bung ubok
[burang

tuudo

bung abak

laboang

Fetticoat

jomuch

jomuch

jamu

kaiin

Trowsers

s inyang

saluar

salauar

tanchuat

“ Chawat”

tiiup

tahup

patung

sihat

“ Tambok”

juach

juach

jua

jua

Do., small,

tambok

tungking

token g

tamboak

worn on the
side

Finang knife

VOL. II.

sinda

sinda

sunda

lungga

25

VOL. II,

386

APPENDICES,

—

SARAWAK.

SADONG.

LARA.

SIBUYAU.

Dress — cont.

Sheath of Pi-

randung

landong

sario

handoang

nang knife

Parang

buko tukin

buk5

bai

isau

Sheath of do.

sibong

sibong

dohong

tangkin

Day

unu

onu

ano

ahi

Dance

berejang

belangi

nari

ngigal

Drink

n5k

nyuhup

man pain

nyihup ai

Dumb

bavra, baku

kaku

awa

bisu

Deaf

bongam

tebodung

bun gal

mandap

Destroy

rusak

rusak

rusak

husak

Divide

kutung

bedodug

punugn

duman

Doctor, to

burich, nguri

bilian

(bilian)

Doctor, a (male)
Do. (female)

dayah beruri
burich

dayung pan-
clia, burich

bari

manang

Door

tiban

jigan

pintu

pintu

Dead

kubus

kubus

kabis

mati

Diligent

gugach

rijung

gugah

hajin

Enough

raput, sedang

luput

chukup

umbas

Eat

man

maan

uman

makai

Egg

turoch

untulo

tura

telo

Enter

murut

murut

maru

masok

Enemy

punganyu

pungaiyu

pengaiyu

munsoh

Fire

opui

opui

api

api

Forbidden

puricli

purich

pari

mali

(tabooed)

Fish

ikyen

ikan

ikan

lawak

Fly (a)

tura

tura

nyamuk

lalat

Fly (to)

mukabur

unchaling,

[mobur

mibir

terbang

Fat

gumu

...

manu

gumu

Fowl

siok, siap

siok, siap

siap

man ok

Fall (“j atoli”)

rubu

rubu

mana

laboa

Forget

kambut

ngkomut

karimut

lupa

Father

sama

umang

sama

apai

Firefly

bukarup

ungkarup

kalamiu

chutlut

Fruit : —

Durian

dean

dihun

dihan

hian

Plantain

borak

pisang

barak

pisang

Mangustin

sikuk

gunau

sikuk

langai'in

Langsat

lishet

lashat

sarikan

langsat

Go

udi

oji

anu

jalei

Go up

maad

nyumak

maka

niki

Go down

mun

muhun

disa

nuliun

Girl

anak dayung

anak dayung

angot

anakbiak indu

Grown up (as

jukut

jukut

abut

sikut

brushwood,

selut)

Get

dapud

dapud

daput

tiimu

Gape (yawn)

kuab

ngkuhab

chabun

nguap

Good

rumus

paguch

lumus

badas

God

Tupa

Tumpa

Penita

Batara

Give

nyen, jugan

jugon

mangkan

bahi

Glad

raiin, awang

kira, awang

repo

dika-liati

Gold

berowan

berowan amas

berawan

mas

House: — Out-

rumin

rumin

rumin

hurnah

side platform

tunyu

tonyu

buntahan

tanyu

APPENDICES.

387

—

SARAWAK.

SADONG.

LARA.

SIBUYAU.

House — cont.

Common room

awach

awach

sambi

ruei

Private room

arun

rumin

ohang

lawang

Garret

runga

runga

runga

sadau

High

omu

sumu

nyumu

tinggi

Hill

derud

darud

munggu

bukit

Hide

chukan

nyukan

nukan

lalei

Hungry

seburuk

seburuk

seburuk

lapah

Hear

dinga

nguping

danga

dingah

Husband

bonuch

bonuch

banun

laki

Hot (“ panas”)

sura

nyowa, shiru

jera

panas

Hot (“ angat”)

paras

paras

paras

angat

Is

ugi

aduch

uni

bisi

Is not

meting, doi j

kaau aduch )
inyap raiya )

kati

nadai

Jump over j

menyakir 1
merejok f

melompat

nyantang

merejbak

Jump down

ngungung

umpapu

nyangugn

trajun

Jungle

tarun

tarun

tarun

kampong

Kneel

sedikang

unyuch

nungkogn

nyerunlcoang

Keep (“pliara”)

( kiugat
( nguan

nagoch )

nyingat }

ngingu

ibun

Know

puiin

umpuon

penane

tau, numCi

Kill

si€i

kenobus

ngamis

bunoli

Large

bas

bahas

aihyo

besei

Lazy

sorut

bojag

uga

kelalah

Lean

miinyuch

kurus

kurus

kuhus

Light, in weight

jangan

nyangan

nyaan

lempoang

Little, quantity

shit

ichiuk

igeat

sikeat

Long
“ Lesong”

omu

ombuch

ungho

panjei

lishong

lesong

rensungan

lesong

(a mortar)
“Alu” (a pestle)

aruch

alu

aru

alu

Laugh

tawuch

natau

guluk

tawa

Lie down

guring

nguleng

guring

gali

Lie (speak

kadong

mudong

lache

bula

[falsely)

kara

Many

bogu

tubun

banyau

Melt

ririch

lilich

luluch

anchuah

Merciful

masi

masi

mase

kaseh

Moon

buran

buran

buran

bulan

Mother

sindu

aiyang, undu

sindo

indei

Morning

ishan-ishan

pagi

ngakap ano

magi-pagi

Mat (“ klasa”)

kasa

krusah

bide

bidei

Mat (“ tikar”)

urnok

umak

bido

klaia

Man

dayah, naan

nuuch, inya

sook

ohang

Musquito

prungang

prunggang

puntujok

hyamoak

Mud

jiju.b

j'jub

lulok

liuboah

Night

ngarum

ngarum

ngarum

malam

New

baiieh

baiieh

bahu

bahu

Not

duch

kadu

kati

adai, nda

Not (do)

ma

ba

anang

Now

madia

mate

mati dia

kamaia tu

Name

adun

gunun

gaan

nama

Noon

yun unu

narang onu

tuno ano

s’tengah alii

Old, man

nyamba

nya tuiich

iima

tuei

Old, thing

uma

dumba

tuhi

lama

Oil

inyo

inyo

aiyan

minyak

Open (to)

kuka

tuhas

nukas

shale

25—2

388

APPENDICES

—

SARAWAK.

SADONG.

LARA.

SIBUYAU.

Other

bukun

bukun

lain

lain

Outside

disopa

luiich sopa

sato

di luiich

One

ni

indi

usa

sa

Once

ni, sidach'

ni, idah

nisidah

sckali

Parang, forge a

moba

ngoba

maba

tumpa

Posts

ros

oros

nalii

tiang

Poor

cheriita

babo

papa

seranta

Provisions

onyad

bokol

sangu

bekal

Perspiration

udiis

udiis

adas

peloh

“ Piuang”

ba'i

pinang,bahai

ohe

pinang

(betel nut)

Put down

na

jimpan

nana

unglcah

Put by

nikuu

j ini pan

raogan

si m pan

Paddy

padi

padi

pade

padi

Pleasant

sidi

sidi

ahwan

nyamei

Quickly

likas

pantas

japat

lekas

lied

hire

unchalak

teransalc

mirali

Return

muri

maring

ure

pulei

Remember

ingat

tian

ingat

ingat

Road

uran

jiiran

pagala

jalei

“ Rotan”

wi

wi

we

hutan

Remove (pin-

beringar

berpindah

pindah

pindah

dah)

Run away

bu

buhu

bolio

lari

Rotten

modam

modam

modam

buhua

Receive

kambat

kira

nyamut

terima

Rice

bras

bras, boru

nahas

balias

boiled

tubi

sungkoi

nasi

asi

Straight

tunggun

bujog

tamut

luhus

Strike (pukul)

mukong

nuntong

mangkugn

palu

Sick

raunam

munam

unam

pedias

Short

purolc

kuduk

punok

pandalc

Sleep

buus

buus

buus

tindoak

Sun

betuch unu

matuch shiru

matu ano

mat’ari

Stars

bintang

bintang

bintang

bintang

Shut (to)

tup

punut, tutu

tutup

tutup

Sandfly

bias

sirap

bihas

singiat

Scald

raus

rous

batu

angus

See

kirich

tubuk

mole

peda

Sharp

roja

roja

ruja

tajam

Shake, to

beguyut

guyut

begote

beguyu

(neuter)

Speak

minyu, sinda

besinda

kasena

bejako

Sneeze

pasin

bekuchcsh

berusun

berkasi

Sit down

guru

ngulu

munyung

duduk

Stand up

mejog

mijog

aguu

berdiri

Spider

tiika

ungkuka

unga

tampa lawa

hteal

nuku

nungku

nangko

cliuhi

Sweet

nibunyich

sija

mamis

man is

Squeeze

pishu

michet

ngerachet

pichlut

Satiated

bisoch

biso

baso

kenyang

Spacious

baiya tawash

nyowa

tawas

tawas

Sorry

susah-utiu

susah-ati

suba-late

tusah

Small (size)
“ Sirih”

shit

icbiuk

inek

mukat, miet

ba'id

bal'd

u'it

sirih

Sky

lungit

langit

langit

langit

Snake

jipuch

nyipuch

nip a

ulali

Spit

ngiruja

nguruja

ngeruja

berludah

Spittle

ruja

reyang

rayang

ai lioch

APPENDICES

3S9

—

SARAWAK.

SADONG.

LARA.

SIBUYAU.

Stop (to)

ruu, moko

ngundei

madi

bado

Still (to be)

ruu

mundu

moko

diau

Take

mit

tumit

tangkap

ambi

Touch

tuma

tuguch

nyankam

jamah

Track

ardk, inyak
sepagi

indich

tawan, aju

bakau

Tomorrow

pagi

jakap

pagi

This

ati, iti, anu

siti, siech

dia

tu

That

ajeeh, inu

saacli

kako, tean

nyun

Throw away

taran

butan

matan

buei

Thirsty

bodueh asliung

haus

karing asliung

liaus

Vegetables

kudosh

ungkunuch

apu

daun kayu

Wing

orad

arad

arat

sayap

White

buda

buda

ranagn

putih

Well (baik)

kena

paguch

baik

baiak

Walk

ponu

jalan

berjalan

bejalei

Woman

dayung

dayung

mahu

indu

Wife

sowun

ushau

sauun

bini

Water

piin

union

pain

ai

W eary

kowuk

ltunyoch

tukur

lelak

Wind (the)

sobak

rnohu

nyaru

angin

Worms

regyu

ungkiho

biar

belut

(stomach)

Work (to)

kaminyang

kaminyang

mukut

jama

What?

uni, mani
kamaki

unich

ja.i

au

Whither?

gupich

kume

kini

Whence?

so aki

sopich

utung adume

arini

Who?

osi

osi

asi

apa

Young

mura

ungod

angot

mudei

Yesterday

unu rnijach

ngundu

rami

kamahi

Year

sawa

sow a

sawa

taun

Pronouns: —

I

aku

aku

ikin

aku

Thou

kuu

omu

ako

koa

lie

eiyuch

aiyech

ini

tu [

We

kiech

ami

kai

kami (exclu-

Ye

ungan

kita

akum

siveof persons
addressed.)
kitei (inclu-
sive.)
kita

They

eiyuch

aiyech

ini

tu

Numerals: —

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

ni, ikan
duuch
taru
pat

rimuch

num

juh

ma'i

pri'i

simung

I add now a short vocabulary, forwarded to me by the
Rev. William Gomez, who lias been stationed at Lundu during
many years. It involves a little repetition, but is useful to

390

APPENDICES,

compare with that collected by the Rev. William Chalmers.
By Lundu, Mr. Gomez refers to the original inhabitants of
that river.

Names of Ten Men and Women in the Tribe.

Husband. Wife.

1. Kalong, 0. K Gunja.

2. Gali .....Binda.

3. Langi Rinja.

4. Itak Indak.

5. Samuling Rimba.

Husband. Wife.

6. Nyinkong Jeba.

7. Bulang Mingga.

8. Lunsong Burong.

9. Mangga Sara.

10. Sageng Tamo.

MEN.

OK Istia Rajah

Garai

Bulang

Jinal

Lunsong

Heights.

5 ft. 2i in.
5 ft. 4 in.
5 ft. 3 in.
4 ft. 10J in.
4 ft. 11 in.

Pungut
Ria

WOMEN.

5 ft.

4 ft. 10j in.

Specimens of the Dayak Language.

—

SABUYAU.

LARA.

SALAKAU.

LUNDU.

Numerals: —
One

sa

asa

1 asa

ni

Two

dua

dua

dua

duo

Three

tiga

taru

talu

taru

Four

ampat

apat

| ampat

pat

Five

lima

rima

lima

rimo

Six

anam

unum

! anam

nom

Seven

tujoh

ijo

tujoh

jo

Eight

lapan

mahi

delapan

mahi

Nine

sambilan

pire

sambilan

pire

Ten

sapuloh

sapuloh

sapuloh

samoong

Waist

punggong

apakng

pinggang

kupong

Navel

pusat

pusat

pusat

pesud

Knee

pala patong

tukung

tuut

bakorob

Foot

kaki

kaja

paha

po, on

Heel

tumbit

tigak

tumit

tiga

Skin

kulit

kurit

ku, it

kulit

Bone

tulang

turakng

tuang

tulang

Flesh

isi

insin

isi

daging

Sinew

uhat

uhat

urat

at

Milk

susu

SUSU

SUSU

sisun

Heart

ati

ate

hati

atin

Spleen

kuha

kura

kura

kura

Gall

umpadu

umpadu

padu

podun

Brains

untak

untuk

otak

otuk

Blood

daha

daya

darah

daya

Spittle

di lioh

rayakng

ai uja

royang

Snivel

insak

buduk

edoh

dok

Tears

ai mata

pain matu

ai mata

eu boton

Perspiration

peloh

adas

pau

das

Dandriff

daki

dunuk

dati

ing

Pus

Dana

penunu

nana

penona

Face

mua

bahas

muha

jawin

Dumb

bisu

awa

awa

APPENDICES,

—

SABUYAU.

LARA.

SALAKAU.

Deaf

bengal

bagi

banga

Blind

buta

buta

buta

Dimness

ulon

kabor

kabor

Stammer

kat

mah

awah

Silly

budon

bagah

bagah

Mad

gila

gila

gila

Cough

batok

mukut

batok

Boil

bisul

tampusu

bisoan

Sea

laut

laut

laut

Sun

matahari

matoano

mata ari

Moon

bulan

buran

buan

Star

bintang

bintang

bintang

Light

trang

tawas

tarang

Darkness

petang

petakng

petang

Heat

panas

jara

darang

Cold

chelap

panut

dingin

Cloud

remang

rahu

niga

Lightning

kilat

kilat

elak

Thunder

guntoh

guntor

guntor

Rainbow

unggoaja

nieraje

antu ai

Mankind

manusia

sok

manusia

Man

ohang laki

areh

angaki

Woman

ohang indoh

mahu

ang bini

Body

tuboh

ungan

tuboh

Hair

bok

abok

bu, uk

Head

pala

abak

kapala

Forehead

dahi

kaning

kaning

Temples

pisan

kingkek

tangengeng

Eyebrow

bulu keneng

bulu rimin

bulu ramang

Eye

mata

matu

mata

Ear

pendeng

rajak

tere, nyek

Nose

idong

dudukng.

idong

Cheek

pipi

kuko

koko

Mouth

mulut

baba

mulut

Tongue

dila

rata

jia

Lip

mulut

bibih

bibir

Teeth

gigi

japu

gigi

Neck

hakong

jangok

tegeli

Chin

dagu

rakng

jago

Back

blakang

rutuk

ba, ikang

Feet

kaki

kaja

paha

Hand

langan

barekug

angan

Chest

dada

sadoh

dada

Finger

tunjok

terinyo

kukot

Nails

kuku

siru

kuku

Stomach

prut

putukng

parut

Fire

api

api

api

Smoke

asap

asup

asap

Rain

hujan

hujan

hujan

Wind

angin

nyaru

angin

Storm

bahat

tupan

nyaru

Sand

paseh

krasik

krasik

Stone

batu

batu

batu

Mountain

bukit

mungu

bukit

Hill

munggu

muton

muton

Mud

reboli

paya

ochak

391

LUNDU.

bangam

buta

kabor

awah

budoli

gila

mukud

perkis

kirekng

mata nanu

bulan

bintang

java

mapong

putek

modud

gening ayong

kilat

dudu

berengan

nyaah

nyaah dadari

dayung

genan

bok

bak

uru

ponyip

kening

botun

kajip

nogong

panig, ng

beba

jera

bibin

jupon

tungoli

rang

punok

po, on

tangan

sodo

terinyo

sirun

tain

apoi

asu

jan

sebak

ribut

sumat

batu

doron

motang

rapak

392

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX B.

The following vocabulary is compiled from materials fur-
nished me by the late Mr. Brereton. The Sea Dayak lan-
guage is spoken by the aborigines on the Batang Lupar and
all its tributaries, the Seribas, Kalaka, and the streams which
flow to the left bank of the Rejang. The Btigaus, who live
in the districts bordering the great Ivapuas river, speak die
same language. There are local variations, but they are of
minor importance. The Malau is the language of the
aborigines living at the very interior of the Kapuas, and, it
is said, not many days’ walk from the great mountain of
Tilong.

—

MALAT.

SEA DAYAK.

MALAU.

Straight

lurus

rums

mupi

Crooked

bengkok

bingkok, simpin

kong kong

Square

ampat persagi

ampat bersgi

kuata

Round

bulat

bulat sagala

ga gulun

Long

panjang

panjai

ba lankei

Broad

lebar

besai

broh

Thick

tabal

tabal

Thin

nipis

nipauli, mipis

nipis

Deep

dalam

dalam

ba jalam

High

tinggi

tinggi

ba lankie

Short

pandak

pondak

Without

deluar

de ruai

tanga sauli

Within

dedalam

dedalam

Light (in

ringan

lumpong

weight)

Heavy

brat

brat

Above

deatas

datas

de asit

Below

debawa

de baroh

de yaum

Behind

deblakang

deblakang

Before

demuka

demua

de roka

Between

antara

antara dua

Here

sini

kitu, ditu

loku

There

sana

kinu duinyin

ke mangeh

Far

jauh

jauh

Near

ampir

dampi

ampensop

Where

mana

nei iya

di selananu

APPENDICES

393

—

MALAY.

At

de

To

ka

From

deri

All

samoa

Many

baniak

Few

sidikit

Small

kechil

Large

Besar

Like

rupa

Now

sakarang

When

apabila

Then

kamudien

To-morrow

besok

Yesterday

kulmarin

Old

tuah

New

bharu

Slow

lambat

Rapid

pantas

Strike

pukul

Break

patah

Open

buka

Shut

tutup

Lift

angkat

Throw

kibar

Wet

basah

Dry

kring

Light

trang

Darkness

glap

Black

itam

White

putili

Red

merah

Yellow

kuning

Blue

biru

Green

ijau

Country

negri

Earth

tanah

Stone

batu

Gold

mas

Silver

perak

Iron

besi

Mountain

gunong

Valley

lembah

Cave

guah

Hill

bukit

Plain

padang

Island

pulau

Water

ayer

SEA DA YAK.

MALAU.

de

ka

arri

samoa

aus

meio

byu

mimit

tetopit

mit

keh kih

besai

brail

boka

si bangun

kamiyatu

anindehen

kamiya

endisi

kamiyania

pa gila balik

mina

ka mani

malam

tuai

tuah

bharu obas

baruh

lobah

ba laun

jumpat

ba riah

dadat

nialun tongi

patah kru

pololi

telengah

ilakkeinih

tutup, tikup

tulopu

katon

angkat

tampalon

keiniko

basah

rankai

kumbat tor

tawas tumpak

manara

petang

raun

chiluni

an tarun

burak

uteli uteli

man soil

di darali

kuning

tantu muun

biru

biru

ij°

benua

benua

batu

mau

mas

perak

perak

besi

besi

bukit

bukit

darong lengkap

lengkap

lobang batu

long batu

bukit

bukit

padang

padang

pulau

pulau

ai

danum

394

APPENDICES,

—

MALAY.

SEA DAYAK.

MALAU.

Sea

laut

tasik

rong jawa

Eiver

suhgei

suhgei

sungai

Wind

angin

ribut

ribut

Hurricane

ribut

ribut bungat

Cloud

awan

niga

dom

Eainbow

pulangi

anakraja

Eain

ujan

ujan

Lightning

kilat

kilat

suran

Thunder

guntur

guntur

dolok

Day

ari

ari

asoh

Night

malam

lamai

Morning

pagi

pagi

kau ko

Sun

matahari

matahari

mat asoh

Noon

tangah hari

tingari

Sky

lafigit

langit

suan

Moon

bulan

bulan

bulan

Star

bintang

apei andau

bintang

Hot

panas

panas

- panas

Fire

api

api

si siak

Burn

bakar

tunoh

tuton

Smoke

asap

asap

rimbu

Ashes

abu

abus

kutu au

Cocoa-nut

nior

buah miniak-
unjor

buah unti

Plantain

pisang

pisang

Paddy

padi

padi

asseh

Eice

bras

brauh

brauh

Pumpkin

labu

antakai

parangi

Yam

ubi

abuk

miah

Seed

benih

banih, igi,
pohn

tulang ah

Tree

pokoh

akak kaya

Eoot

akar

randah, urat,

banarun

Leaf

daun

daun

daunah

Flower

buhgah

bungai

bukas

Fruit

buah

buah

buarah

Eaw

mantah

matah

mutoh

Eipe

masak

mansoh

sasak

Deer

rusa

rusa

piang

Bear

bruang

jugam

Cow

sapi

chapi, banting

Goat

kambing

bedus

kambin

Dog

anjing

uduk, ukue

asu

Hog

babi

jam

bawi

Monkey

kra

kra

sih

Cat

kuching

maiau

Mouse

tikus kechil

chit

Eat

tikus

chit

balau

APPENDICES,

395

Squirrel

Bird

Domestic fowl

Duck

Kite

Sparrow

Swallow

Crow

Cage

Snake

Frog

Fish

Crab

Prawn

Butterfly

Bee

Fly

Mosquito

Louse

Ant

Spider

Horn

Tail

Feather

Wings

Egg

Honey

Wax

Body

Head

Hair

Face

Ear

Eye

Nose

Cheek

Mouth

Lip

Tooth

Tongue

Hand

Finger

Thumb

Nail

Belly

Foot

Bone

MALAY.

tupei

burong

ayam

itek

alang

pipit

layang layang

gagak

kurong

ular

katak

ikan

katam

udang

kupu kupu

lebah

lalat

niamok

kutu

semut

laba laba

tandok

ikur

bulu

sayap

telor

madu

lilin

tuboh

kapala

rambut

muka

telinga

mata

idong

pipi

mulut

bibir

gigh

ledah

tangan

jari

jari ibu

kuku

prut

kaki

tulang

SEA DATAK.

tupei

burong

manok

itek

menaul

pipit

lelayang

kale

krukor

ural

rinkak rarigu

ikan

katam

undai

maniah

manyik

lalat

niamok

kutu

semut

ampelawa

tandok

iku

bulu

sayap

tuloh

ai manyik

lilin

tuboh

pala

bok

muah

pending

mata

idong

kayuh

mulut

bibir

gilit n’li

delah

jari

tunjok

tunjok indu

kukut

prut

kaki

titlang

MALAU.

but

manok

riri

bau

dungus

ruar

ba ningar
lauk

undan

lalas

sinsam

timjan

inkuah

sapa

turoh roh
danum muani

mantuan

ulu

rambut

lindoh

telinga

mata

ingar

tampilik

baba

kulit baba

gisi

lilah

tangan

unjok

unjok tangan

kuku

parut

396

APPENDICES

—

MALAY.

SEA DA YAK.

MALAU.

Flesh

daging

isi

Skin

kulit

kulit

Fat

gamok

gamok

manbin

Lean

krus

kurus

dejankat

Blood

dara

dara

Saliva

ludah

ludah

lasu

Sweat

peluli

peluh

Hard

kras

kriang

Soft

lambut

lemeh

aloeh

Hot

pan as

angat

Cold

sejok

chi lap

barasam

Thirsty

aus

rankei rekon

niawar akar

Hungry

lapar

rapah

mosi ber tanka

Sour

masam

masam

Sweet

manis

manis

mamis

Bitter

pait

pait

Smell

bau

bau

Fragrant

wahgi

angit, nyamei

Stinking

busok

but jaii

Sick

sakit

padis, tabin

meka

Dead

mati

parei

match

Eat

makan

makai, dumpali

ankan

Drink

minum

irup

minum

See

lihat

mada

meta

Laugh

tatawa

tatawa

Weep

menangis

niabak

nangis

Kiss

chium

sium

chisum

Speak

kata

jaku

men janum

Be silent

diam

diau

la lako

Hear

dahgar

ningar

lingar

Lift

angkat

angkat

Walk

jalan

jalai

lambar

Run

lari

rari belanda

lari

Stand

berdiri

berdiri

kadin

Sit

dukuk

duduk

duduh

Climb

pan j at

niki

mumbit

Sleep

tidor

tindok

tindoli

Awake

bangun

dani

sadin

Recollect

ingat

ingat

Know

tau

nemu

temu

Forget

lupa

na ingat

Ask

tania

tania

ketu anan

Answer

saut

saut

Understand

mengarti

nemu udi

Yes

iya

au, bisi

oh

No

tidah

ingai, nadei

nanok

Beautiful

elok

bajik, badas

mam

appendices.

397

—

MALAY.

SEA DAYAK.

MALAU.

Ugly

rupa jahat

nda badas, jaii

Pleased

suka

gagot hati

sa sau niawa aku

Sorry

susah

tusut, tusah hati

sakanutin

Afraid

takut

takut, rawan

Shame

malu

malu

bawa

Love

kasih

kasih, rindu

Hate

binchi

na’ndu

nanak meh nia

Anger

marah

ringat

babu julu

Wish

mau

dekah

menioh

Right

betul

amai

Wrong

sal ah

salah

Good

baik

badas

mam

Bad

jahat

jain

jauli

True

benar

amai, benda

topat

False

dusta

bula

Wait

nanti

netu

ako akoh

Come

mari

datai

Go

pergi

nurun, pegi

andor

Meet

temu

temu

Hide

tapok

belalei

sunyiin kolu ko

Search

chari

gigah

men ari

Find

dapat

ulih

kuleh

Give

kasih

anjong, unjok

anlat

Take

ambil

ambi

taloh

Bring

bawa

bai

iawa

Take away

angkat

angkat

tangkong

Kill

bunoh

bunoh

dunoh

I

aku

aku

tak

Mine

aku puuia

akum puh

tak ampunah

Thou

angkau

nuan

ikon

Thine

angkau punia

nuan puli

ikon ampunah

He, she, it

iya

iya

ninan

His, &c.

dia punia

niam puli

We ( inclusive

kita

kita

[or absolute )

Our ( inclusive )

kita punia

kitampuh

We ( exclusive

kami

kami

[or relative )

Our ( exclusive )

kami punia

kami puli

You

kau

nuan

Your

kau punia

nuanpuh

They

Their

iya

iya

iya punia

iyampah

This

ini

itu

That

itu

nin, nia

Who

siapa

sapa

What

apa

naina, kali

398

APPENDICES,

—

MALAY.

SEA DAYAK.

MALAU.

Food

makanan

makai, enkaiu

Eice, boiled

nasi

asi

Sugar

gula

gula

Oil

miniak

miniak

Milk

ayer susu

ai tusu

Flesh

daging

isi

Boil

rebus

sumei

Broil

panggang

ganggang

Salt

garam

garam

Clothes

pakayan

kain

Earring

antin antin

gronjong, tihga

Chawat

chawat

sirat

kin paroh

House

rumah

rumah

sauh

Wood

kayu

kayu

Posts

tiang

tiang

pra kayu

Door

pintu

laan

pintu

Ladder

tangga

tangku

Bed

tampat tidor

penindok

Mat

tikar

tikai

alik

Box

peti

peti

Eoad

jalan

jalai

Bridge

jambatan

jamban

Spear

tombak

sankoh

relis

Sword

pedang

pedang

Chopping knife

parang

duku

basi

Boat

prahu

bangkong

prauh

Canoe

sampan

bidok

bidup

Spirit

antu

antu

Man

orang laki laki

orang laki

ber bakar

W oman

perampuan

indu

berbeneh

Husband

laki

laki

Wife

bini

bini

arineh

Father

bapa

apai

amah

Mother

ama

indai

indu

Grandfather

nenek

aki, nineh

piang

Child

analc

anak

Old

tuah

inai, tuai

Young

muda

muda

Boy

budak

biak

Girl

anak dara

n’dun

BALAU NAMES.

MEN.

WOMEN.

MEN.

WOMEN.

Linggi

Rata

Janting

Itau

Jelapiang

Salima

Anggi

Sarika

Nangga

Sal am

Musit

Chula

Moramat

Saripa

Jisang

Rabi

APPENDICES,

399

APPENDIX C.

Languages of Tribes between the Rejang and Baram.

—

MILANAU.

KAYAN.

PAKATAN.

Straight

tigah

tuto

mato’

Crooked

piko, pikok

kauwi

kaliong kal-
[iong

Square

ampat papak, pak

tepahak

lipat, lingit

Round

gulong

biliong

atup

Long

lalau

aruh

ije

Broad

aiyoh

berang

uhgei

Thick

kapal, kapan

kapan

kapan

Thin

dipis

ngipi

meliring

Deep

Shallow

tumal, tebun
t4

delum

melolom

High

regau

bo

mauo

Short

dadit, kadit

biek

ujo

Without

aulr, kaulr

auwa

api, lipo

Within

wang, kadalum

amin

lalum

Light (in
[weight)

paiying

nian

melang

Heavy

bahat

bahat

mawat

Above

amau, mamau

usun

mau o

Below

ibah

idah

lu4

Behind

buta, likut

baleh

api lauo

Before

jau-ai

talatan

tobata

Between

patas, gahut

hang

gat

Here

kide, idai

teni

ati

There

kidun, inun

tenan

iri

Far

meju

su

moju

Near

segah

jelang

deteri manjo

Where

gua-an, hahn

santeno

pahen

At

To

gnau

tugun

...

to

From

kuman, keman

man

to maia

All

gruh

limlin

hing gake

Many

dida, bunah

mahum

ungat

Few

jimit, sisit

okedok

mari

Small

gomit, isit

ok

isi

Large

ay-ung, ayoh
sama, pesoh

ayah

ungei

Like

chepiah

jabalu

Now

ahalu, nahu
pidang

krehini

ah

When

heran

lipa

400

APPENDICES

—

MILAXAU.

KAYAN.

PAKATAN.

Then

sum

para

To-morrow

lesung, laumasuk

jima

lamasok

Yesterday

sabi, lau mai

dahalum

alommalom

Old

melai, garu-puhun

lumeh

matui

New

jakin, uba

maharing

uwa

Motion

lakau

tepanau

Slow

melai, luhuei

tepat

malia

Rapid

jiik, seli

nian

maro

Strike

pur

pesa’, pelak

nukal

bek

Break

brong

mota

Open

kab, ukah

lueh

ukah

Shut

tabun

kap

jinut

Lift

makat

amju

akat

Throw

galang, barang

buht

ting

Wet

basah

basah

basoh

Dry

muang, bahung

megaang

adang

Sound

seiigau, serau

nau

hau

Light

tahung

malah dau

alau

Darkness

padam, kelam

ledam

sigalup

Black

bilam

pitam

horommorom

White

putih

borah

buak

Red

sat, sak

belah

arang arang

Yellow

kunyit

jemit

Blue

biru

using

Green

gadong

gadong

ujang arang
arang

Country

tad

• ••

bila

Earth

tanah

tanah

tanoh

Stone

sanau, bato

bato

bato

Gold

mas

mah

Silver

perak

perak

Iron

bisi

titau

malat

Mountain

tugong

ngalang

tong

Valley

deta, pating

akeng

gatoug

Cave

lubong

lubang bok

bobang

Hill

tagah

ngalang ok

tong malui

Plain

lalang

nha

data

Island

sah

busong

palui

Water

anum

atah

danum

Sea

dat, sabung

ngeoli

kala

River

sungei

ungah

bila

Wind

pahgai, bario

bahoi

balu

Hurricane

buiigas, bario lagah

mengali

balu makokop

Cloud

mabat, duruoli

langat

aun

Rainbow

iang aiigan, jajiling

lingyating

bukang

Rain

ujan

usau

langut

Lightning

skilit

kilat

bali

APPENDICES.

401

—

MILANAU.

KAY AN.

PAKATAX.

Thunder

litu, prah

barareh

bali

Day

lau

dau

alau

Night

lemui

malam

malam

Morning

tumu, masu

niup

alau

Sun

matalau

matadau

matalau

Noon

kedang lau

dau nagrang

alaumarapuru

Sky

lanyit

lungit

laiigit

Moon

bulan

bulan

bulan

Star

betohun

lauing

letuen

Hot

lesu

an it dau

melahu

Fire

apui

apui

apui

Burn

tinu, sidap

tutong

asik

Smoke

anus, tugun

lesun

sun

Ashes

abo

aroh

au

Cocoa-nut

nyoli

nyoli

tuporu

.Plantain

balak

uteh

jusang

Paddy

padai

pareh

pari

Rice

bahar

bah a

benai

Pumpkin

labo

tinun aloh

entakei

Yam

obei

oveh

ubi

Seed

bahah

wang

bah

Tree

basoh

keioh

karing

Root

akai

akah

oka

Leaf

duhun

itun

daun

Flower

bedak

idang

buhgo

Fruit

buah

buah

buah

Raw

tah

letali

ata

Ripe

Tiger

sale

sale

ak

koleh

koleh

Deer

paiau

paiau

ujang

Bear

makop

bruang

makup

Horse

Buffalo

kudah

karbau

kaleo

karbau

Cow

Goat

sapi marau
muh

kadeng

Dog

asau

aso

asu

Hog

babui

baboi

bauwi

Monkey

bedok

kuyal

kiat

Cat

ngau

cheng

maiau

Mouse

belabau

• ••

chit

Rat

belabau pagong

lavoh

belauo

Squirrel

bap

tel ih

sirik

Bird

mandk

manok

purit

Domestic

siau

niap

siap

[fowl

Duck

Kite

itek

kinlu kang

niau

niau

26

YOL. II,

402

APPENDICES.

—

MILANAU.

KAYAN.

PAKATAN.

Sparrow

gerit

tegih

purit

Swallow

kalau pisan, salar

• . •

belini

Crow

kali

...

purit aroma-

Cage

sakar

bakah

[rom

lakit

Snake

dlpa, penganan

nipa

asei

Frog

bekurek, wak

wak

buja

Fish

jen

masih

bajo

Crab

gatam, tekeh

• • •

nitik4

Prawn

padak

orang

suat

Butterfly

Bee

belabang, selababang
ahge’, sengut

ihgat

singut

Fly

lahg au

lahgo

larigo

Mosquito

krias

amak

niamok

Louse

kutau

butoh

kutu

Ant

udap

kalirang

ula

Spider

berumong, belakawa

kalawa

Horn

oliun

hoiig

uwong

Tail

ikui

ekoh

ikui

Feather

bulau

buloh

bulu

Wings

kalapayang, bebui

kapayang

ilap

Egg

telfii

teloh

telur

Honey

juru

telang

danum singut

Wax

lilin

laha

lilin

Body

apa, biuh

luliong

kuhga

Head

ulau

kahong

ulok

Hair

bok

bok

belutok

Face

jaue!

nang

ba

Ear

linga

apang

bakit

Eye

mata

matang

mato

Nose

udong

arong

urong

Cheek

pipei

bah

ba

Mouth

bah

...

bawa

Lip

bujul, bujim

...

lingil bawa

Tooth

nyipan

ipan

langoli

Tongue

jilah

jilah

jela

Hand

agam, pang

usuh

lohgo

Finger

brahgau

ikeng

tuju

Thumb

brahgau poll

ikeng ayah

inan tuju

Nail

silau

eloli

ilu

Belly

nai, tenaheng

butit

puong

Foot

betis, pahuh

udak

bati

Bone

tulang

tulang

Flesh

sin

sin

oyi

Skin

kulit

kulit

Fat

maniak, piong

madong

mapiong

me’

Lean

mas megaeh

niyang

APPENDICES.

403

—

MILANAU.

KATAN.

PAKATAN.

Blood

darah

niyang dah

dah

Saliva

lujah

lurah

danum jela

Sweat

sinak

umah

peloi

Hard

saiek

maing

makokop

Soft

dumui, lemeik

lemah

meluko

Hot

lasu

lasu

lua

Cold

sihgur, sihganiam

ngam

mangen mera-
[rum

Thirsty

krang

laveh

agang

Hungry

jila

laoh

mitil

Sour

masam

masam

masom

Sweet

ngialiang

leng

mamis

Bitter

by is

paieh

mapeit

Smell

bun

bun

bun

Fragrant

jueh bun

boaram (bau-
[arum)

jan bun

Stinking

bun madam

laiyu bun

jot bun

Sick

bajl, madam

prah

maparo

Dead

kabas, kebeh

mateh

makabo

Eat

kaman

kuman

kamo

Drink

tutang

kuman

niup

See

nadlang, ngiang

ngiang

rnipo

Laugh

paglam

keseng

mohong

Weep

nahgi

nangi

Kiss

anak, manak
oba, pubah

marak

mengaruk

Speak

tanaran

pelabu

Be silent

kadap, sarawan

meloh

koring

Hear

tuyang, ta’ah

ngring

karingo

Lift

makh

juh

akat

Walk

sibal, lakau

panoh

makiap

Run

buraii

lap

mago

Stand

kadang

bitih

manakaring

Sit

kudu

tehgoh

muruk

Climb

tlkud, nikad

nakar

menikit

Sleep

tedui, melut

tuduh

matarui

Awake

pega, makat

maaur

matia

Recollect

ingat

tedoh

katom

Know

tehu

jaieh

matiwo

Forget

lelu

adoh

jakunak

Ask

klabau, nalabau
fdang, mulang

metang

jajam ipo

Answer

niuneh

tahgok

Understand

tahau

jahm

Yes

iyu, niuli

aieh

oso

No

nabe, enam

jan

di

Beautiful

dau, jiuh wah

saiyu

jan

ugly

batau jahat, jehek
[wah

jahak

jut bawa

26—2

404

APPENDICES.

—

MILANAU.

KAYAN.

PAKATAN.

Pleased

lull, agen

ikum

luko

Sorry

susali

brah

Afraid

mamo, bout

takut

maut

Shame

mlah

tahih

mehgala

Love

tilang

masih

ilo

Hate

best

jan ikum

maparu

Anger

m liras

busak

lohoi

Wish

luh

ikum

lu

Right

tiga

marong

mato

Wrong

salah

jan marong

mela

Good

jlii

saiyu

jan

Bad

jehek

jaliak

jut

True

atang, senau

lan

mato

False

pemude, selbeh

• . .

sakwe’

Wait

ati, lulau

kavoli

iyo

Come

lebih, kaliai

nenih

labi

Go

mule, luwat

kakah

ane

Meet

batopoh

sabong

pasaba

Hide

plim, sihok

nyok

molim

Search

iniang, nginoh

ilu

ipo

Find

kena

• • •

ala

Give

bill

maieh

tuja

Take

alap, apan

apih

apen

Bring

igih

grih

itong

Take away

igih, agali

grih kap

apen

Kill

benuh

itih

kabo

I

ako’

akui

hok

Mine

ako bin

akui pun

hok laket

Thou

kawan, ikah

kalunan

ko

Thine

ikah bin

liih pun

ko laket

He, she, it.

idun, ngiah

ikah

ero

His, &c.

ngiah bin

ikah itih pun

ero laket

We ( inclu -

telut

itam

ta

sive or ab-

solute )

Our (inclu-

telut bin

itam pun

ta laket

sive)

We ( exclu -

kami

kami

kai

sive or re-

lative )

Our ( exclu -

kami pat

kami pun

kai laket

sive)

You

ikah

ikah

Your

ikah bin

They

sepat

Their

sepat bin

This

Ih

ini

muto

APPENDICES.

405

—

MILANAU.

KAYAN.

PAKATAN.

That

idun

ineh

mona

Which

han

inoh

Who

iya saih

inoh ik

hi

What

wanau

inoh

hawa

Food

kun

kanih

ngoku

Eice boiled

naseh

kanan

asi

(nasi)

Sugar

gula

jatan

Oil

muh

telang, usun

nio

Milk

soli

• • •

11

Flesh

sin

nahang

oi

Boil

isak, midah

• ••

taring

Broil

sirai, bahang

selie

aling

Salt

siah

niah

ijo

Clothes

asak, sungup

davan

ongup

Earring

tading

isan

subang

Chawat

bai

bah

bai

House

lebfih

umali

lau labu

Wood

kayo

kayoh

Posts

dirih

jeheli

patun

Door

abusukud

bataman

kobuko

Ladder

taga

sahn

ojan

Bed

kadau tudui ideh

tilong

lakid maturui

Mat

jail

brat

jali

Box

kaban

peteh

Eoad

aru, sawah

ulan

anun

Bridge

jaman

palang

ojan

Bow

Arrow

Spear

bakit

bakir

bahgofiff

Sword

pedang

pedang

Chopping

tui, barogah

malat

butut, ftaroja

[knife

Boat

tamui

Canoe

tunan, salui

arolc

alui

Spirit

tau

toll

otu

Man

tulai, tanawan

lakeli

ale

Woman

marau

doh

oro

Husband

lai, sawah

lakeh doh

ale

Wife

marau

doh dah

oro

Father

am a’

ameh

aman

Mother

ina’

indeh

in an

Grandfather

ipo’, akeh

ukuli

aki

Child

ugut

apang

Son

anak lai

anak lakeh

anak ale

Daughter

anak marau

anak doh

anak oro

Brother

janak lai, tatat lai

aren lakeh

naken ale

406

APPENDICES.

—

MILANAU.

KAY AN.

PAKATAN.

Sister

janak marau, tatat
marau

aren doh

naken oro

Old

lake’

dah muku

tok4

Young

jemanak

dak niam

iyong

Boy

jemanak lai

makek

iyong isi

Girl

jemanak luas or
marau

nyen dok

iyong oro

I must draw attention to the letter represented by ng in
English. In pronouncing the words in these vocabularies,
it must be remembered that, whether marked or not, the
Malay letter has the sound of the ng in “ singing,” and that
the g must not be pronounced with the following syllable.

APPENDICES.

407

APPENDIX D.

Languages of Northern Borneo.

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

adang (murut).

Numerals : —

)

One

iso, sail

• • •

sabulang

Two

duo

dua

Three

telo

telo

Four

apat

ampat

Five

limo

lima

Six

anam

anam

Seven

turo

turo

Eight

walo

walu

Nine

siam

ewa

Ten

opod

pulo

Eleven

opod dam iso

pelud cha

Twenty

duo nopod

pelud dua

A hundred

atus, san atus

Day

adau, tadau

adau

chaw

Night

sedap

mentiong potong

racham

Morning

suab nakapia

bukatadau

kamuka

Evening

tawang-an

...

Yesterday

kaniab

kiniab

seladi

To-morrow

suab

suab

napa

Day after do.

suab dina

Light

okalub

miang

machang

Name

naran

Use

guno (muni)

The same

bagal

Food

takanan

akanakan

Eice

ogas, wagas

nubur (nasi)

Kaladi

gual

Yam

kaso

Kribang

wei

Fowl

manok

, , ,

lahal

A cock

piak

Salt

silan

uson

Plaintain

punti

...

ba’ong

Cocoa-nut

piasau

...

bua butan

Flesh

ansi

ansi

wang

Fat

lambon, lunak

lunok

lumo’

Tobacco

sigup

Fish

sada

sada

lawid

408

APPENDICES.

—

I DA’ AX.

BISATA.

ADANG (mCRUT)

Arrack

( tuak baliar
{ talak tinamul

Padi

parei

parei

pade’

Milk

gatas

Oil

umau

umau

Water

waig

aig

pa

Fire

apui

apui

apui

Smoke

lisun

lisun

rapun

Ashes

ahun

a’u

Egg

antalun

lampuni

Price

arga

Charcoal

tahun

Tree

guas, puhn kaya

puhn

pohun

Branch

rahan

Leaf

rahun

daun

daun

Flower

usak

usak

usak

Bark

kulit

Boot

gamut

amut

war

Gutta

pulut

Fruit

uah

buah

buah

Seed

linso

umi

ilong

Plants

tanaman

Pitcher do.

kaku anga

Battan

tuei

Bambu

ragup

“Batang”trunk

wabahgan

Moss

rangilut

Thorn

rugi

Pinang

lakang

Young do.

lugus

Country

pagun

pagun

bawang

Earth

tanah

tanah

tanah

Stone

watu

batu

batu

Biver

bawang

bawang

pa

Mountain

bukid

bukid

turud dita

Valley

parong

...

aroi

Cave

luang

luang

lobang

Plain

kapayan

gana

balad

Sea

rahat

laut

pa nawap

island

pulau

pulau

penulong

Wind

ibut

lohgos

bario

Storm

tahg-us

Bainbow

meluntong

melintong

takang

Bain

rasam

rasam

mudan

Lightning

kadumaat

kaduma’at, long-

lalam

ganit

Thunder

garut

sengkarut, lalaru

lugo

APPENDICES,

409

—

I da’ AN.

BISAYA.

ADANG (MURCT).

Sun

matadau

mata-adau

chaw

Sand

oggis

Moon

ulan

bulan

bulan

Stars

rambituan

bintang

gatuan

Road

ralan

Forest

talunan

Lake

ranau

Deer

tambang

tambang

priau

Bear

buhuang

Horse

kuda

Buffalo

karbau

Cow cattle

sapi

Goat

kambing

Dog

asu

asu

okaw

Hog

bakas

bau-hi

barak

Wild hog

• • •

ramo

baka’

Cat

tung-au

using

kuching

Monkey

kara

kara

koyad

Rat

ikus

tikus

Snake

lanut

lanut

mampa’

Butterfly

galamambang

kalabang

berapang

Beetle

anggiloung

Domestic bee

kalulut

Bee

tangingat

mutit

sikan

Mosquito

sisit

kalias

tokong

Sandfly

...

...

ritak

Ant

kilau

kilau

dra

Horn

suiigu

nga

Hair

ulu

Tail

tiku

iku

iyor

Feather

alad

Egg

antalu

lampuni

Honey

Wings

paha

leng

duro

tulut

alan

ilad

Half

sihggaran

Trade

bilian

A “ dustar ”

sigar

House

lamin, walei

alei

Wood

seduan

Posts

trigi

rigi

“Ataps” (mats)

tahap

Door

sesuanan

karbon

Ladder

tukat

tukad

Window

tatiga-an

Fireplace

dapu-an

Bed (sleeping

tikam modop

lubok

mat)

410

APPENDICES,

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

ADANQ (MURUT).

Mat

tikam

ikam

“ Priok ” pot

kurau

Hut

sulap

A measure

tungap

Pillow

roei

White man

kambura

Man

kadayan

mianei

People

suang

A man

kusei, ngidun

mianei

Woman

tandu

kimo

Husbaud

kusei

ano’

Wife

sawa, sau

sau-o

Father

ama

yama

Mother

ina

indu

Grandfather

adu aki

yaki

Grandmother

adu

Child

anak

Virgin

samandak

Kiss

siiigud

narokadong

Cloth

umut

“ Chawat ”

santut

sirot

Spear

andus

bangkau

“ Parang ”

dahgol

madi

Knife

peis

Shield

taming

Sword

pedang

A spirit

ragun

lematei

Iron

besi

Brass wire

saring

“ Bidang”

ganap

Earring

anting anting

Needle

dalat

Jacket

rasuk-garong

Sheet

ramut

Body

inan

inan

burur

Head

ulu

ulu

ulu

Hair

tabuk

abuk

bok

Face

turas

rabas

monong

Ear

telingo

teling-o

Eye

mato

mato

Eyebrow

kirei

Nose

tadong

adong

Mouth

kabang

kabang

tang

Lip

munong

Tooth

nipun

ipmi

lipan

Tongue

lelah

lelah

lebah

Cheek

pihgas

ilan

pihg-it

APPENDICES.

411

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

ADANG (mUKUT).

Neck

lio

Shoulder

liawa

Armpit

pakilok

I

Hand

palad

long- on

tichu, palad

Finger

tentuduk

buatichu

Thumb

malahing

indu longon

tuju tapo

Nail

sandulu

sing-ilu

selon

Breasts

susu

Belly

tenai

tenai

batak

Navel

pusat

.

“ Kamaluan” m

tali

“ Kamaluan ” f

tato tata’

Thigh

paw

Knee

atud

Calf

dakud

Foot

lapak

atis

palad kukud

Bone

tulang

Blood

raha

ra

Flesh

ansi

ng’giri

wang

Fat

lambon

lunok

lumo

Skin

kulit

kubil

Saliva

luja

jimpi

aka

Sweat

tumus

umos

pana

Elbow

siku

Fathom

dapo

String, &c.

toggis

To roll up

lapiau

Cover, lid

sompon

Thief

penakau

Good

rahggoi

munsi

Bad

arahat

rat

Bight

rahggoi, ingka

bunoi

Wrong

sala’

Tall

kawas

Long

naro

auad

rawir

Short

sariba

riba

benua

Sweet

momis

mamis

Sour

onsam

masom

Nice

wasi

Bitter

pait

pait

Sharp

taram

Blunt

amo, katagu

Old (tuah)

lai-ing (lai-ag ?)

kako

Young

mulok

tari

Old (lama)

laid, kilo

laid, matuo

maun

New

wago

ago

baro

Hot

lasu

lasu

412

APPENDICES.

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

adang (mordt).

Cold

sagid

sagit

tenab

Wet

eiapas

rnasah

bah

Dry

True

magintu

kala’

takaring

ranggoi

bunor

False

udut

bawa

Ugly

araliat

rat

Pretty

osonang

monsei

Large

gaio, kagaio

gaio

raya

Small

kore

diok

madi

Heavy

magat, bagat

magat

brat

[wagat, ogat

Light

gan

gan

rahan

All

timong

saiigai

abiabi

Many

gamo, sapo

suang

mulamula

Few

kore-kor^

diok

sesut

Like

bagal (“mirad”)

sama paras

pahad lea

Different

suei

Slow

boei

boei

dadan

Rapid

Heavy as rain
Thirsty

gompas

gompas

deros

mauwar

tulian

kalalio

Hungry

losun

mitil

Striking

buntong

Sick

sagid

duol

Dead

matei

matei

Sorry

susah

gagau

Angry

magulau

siau

Straight

tulid

tulid

sun

Crooked

brakilong

belengkok

kelo’

Square

apat, persagi

ampat pensagi

lepingpat

Round

urud

...

taburor

Broad

kalab

lebali

raya

Thick

kapah

kapah

kapal

Thin

mipis

nipis

nipi

Shallow

Deep

ralam

lalum

tutun

Black

eitom

hitom

mitam

White

purak

purak

buda

Red

ragang

ragang

sia

Yellow

silau

chilau

berar

Sore

owal

Raw

matah’

matah

matah

Ripe

mansak

mansak

lak

Dirty

arnut

Clean

aro’k

Hard

kadau

kodau

tua

Soft

lumi

lembut

leia

APPENDICES.

413

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

ADANG (MURUT).

Enough
“Korang” want-

png

Pregnant

Slippery

Clever

Quick

Right

Left

Rough

Bold and brave
I or we

ganap

aino, karungut

betian

lamau, lamo

tutun

jajaran

ganan

gibang

sanilu

siau

yeho, yai dug a

jami

You

dia

ikan

He or they

idia

iyo

Who

sei

iseo

What

nono

a’an

This

iti

tio

That

ina

sulo

Here

did

ditio

dini

There

ilo, dilo

sulu

dung-a

Where

nambo

domboi

dapei-a

Far

sadu

sado

madi

Near

samak, samok

somok

monang

Without

saribau

ribau

lemela’

Within

saralam

selalam

metakap

Above

kawas

ribau

duhgeilun

Below

sariba

sua

meilena

Behind

likud

likud

katad

Before

dibrus

derabas

lepa monong

Between

palatan

...

rang

To

Previously
From
Not yet
Yes

ka

gahulu
masunut
j eiso po
i aw

awe

No

eiso

unjob

Now

kirakira

kila

napa

When

sahgira

memburo

idan

Afterwards

turi, tahuri

turi

muchi

In this way
In that way
How many
Presently
More
To eat
To drink
To see

inka’, pinka’
inka-i

sangkora, gamo

ruhei

aro

mengakan

menginum

magintong

lintong

414

APPENDICES,

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

ADANG (UURDT).

To laugh

magirak

girak

To weep

miad

giad

To kiss

maningud

narokadong

To speak

boras

betuntut

To be silent

mada

gorom

To hear

makinahgo

korongo

To lift

kakatan

tengango

To walk

manau

manau

To run

magi du

midu

To stand

mindahau

kakat

To sit

mirikau

koko

To climb

midakud

nakod

To sleep

modop

modop

To awake
To recollect

tumanag, tuhgag
insam

tidong

To know

pandei, mila

pandei

To forget

aliwan

kalamuan

To ask for

makiano

To wait

magandad

ninteo

To come

sikei

mikot

To go
To meet

mangai, pagidu
bertemu

midu

To hide

lisuk

mensusut

To search

magi-om

yumo

To give

noan

menak

To bring

oito

mito

To kill

To wround
To sow
To plant
To fight

To trade
To buy
To sell
To cheat
To steal

To marry
To bear chil-
[dren
To grow
To shout
“ Ada”

“ Habis”

To shade

sangat, menian-
[gat

suhat
memambri
mengasuk
mengulan, mer-
[asang
berdagang
bili

taranan

menipu

menakau, meni-
[kus

menasawa

berganak

samuni
meniangkis
warah
awi, ei, nei
osorong

metai-o

APPENDICES.

415

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

adano (mcrdt).

To swim
To arrive
To wash
To bathe
To want
Don’t
To burn
“ He says ”

To play
To tie
“ Gurau ”

“ Amput”

To hug
To lay hold of
To desire
To return
To take a wife
„ husband
High

samadoi

korokod

ming isu

madsiu, padsiu

saga

ada

tutud

kadsio

berunsei

kagus

bersibak

berkiu

gapus

migit, makahei

saga’

sagulei

kasawa

memangat

sau-at

dita

To strike

pudo

mapar

To break

petul

motul

To open

bika

ngukab

To shut

beno

nutub

To lift

tenang-o

nakang

To throw

menokon

mapat

To sound

katab

buri

Darkness

potong

racham

Green

Iron

basi

...

belawan

Hill

bukid diok

turud, murud

Hurricane

tangus

ribut

buri mawar

West

surapadau

East

matadayau

Cloud

laput

Noon

tampakadau

topud chaw

Sky

adau

To burn

tudo

sensuli

menunoh

To smoke

lisun

lisun

rapun

Kice

agas, wagas
tawadak

agas

brah

Eumpkin

...

belabu

Yam

kaso

ubi

Mouse

ikus

...

labaw

Squirrel

• ••

niamo

Bird

manok

suit

Kite

...

kanio

kanio

Sparrow

...

pirit

pirit

Swallow

...

senkalayang

kalua

416

APPENDICES,

—

ida’an.

BISAYA.

ADANG (mORUT).

Crow

mangkak

brengkak

Cage

kurungan

Frog

sei

sit

Crab

kuyu

kra

Prawn

tentudik

Fly

pangat

Spider

senkalang

Wax

ulih

Thirsty

kalalio

pring

Hungry

mitil

lau

Smell

kiabau

mau

Fragrant

• • •

munsei

Stinking

buntong

mutong

Dead

matei

matei

Answer

sumbarau

Pleased

nako

Afraid

lemakak

Shame

mikum

Love

ngako

Hate

baji

Wish

ngako

Light

bunor

Find

malak

Take

lapo

Boil

sunsam

Broil

sinalau

Earring

subang

Road

langgaio

Bridge

pentaran

Boat

padas

Canoe

padasdiok

Son

inianei

Daughter

kimo

Brother

sitari

Sister

sitari kimo

Girl

anak agu

Shallow (as
[water)

...

tutun

Tin

...

simara’

Sweet potato

wei

Kaladi

gual

A cock

piak

Ask for

makiano

APPENDICES,

417

APPENDIX E.

Though this list was given me by an educated Lanun, I
doubt whether the blanks I have left should be filled up
with the Malay word, as he said, because it is very possible
that, as he had had little intercourse with his countrymen for
many years, he may have forgotten the words.

—

MALAY.

LANUN.

—

MALAY.

LANUN.

Straight

lurus

matidu

Yesterday

kulmari

dua gua i

Crooked

bengkok

becog

dSn

Square

ampat per-

Old

lama

rnatei den

sagi

New

bharu

bagu

Round

bulat

Slow

lambat

malumbat

Long

panjang

melendu

Rapid

laju

maga-an

Broad

lebar

maulad

Strike

pukul

basal

Thick

tabal

makapal

Break

pechah

r laupak

Thin

nipis

manipis

Open

buka

Deep

tlalatn

madalam

Shut

tutup

High

tinggi

mapuro

Lift

angkat

sepuat

Short

pendek

mababa

Throw

lontar

pelantig

Without

deluar

segamau

Wet

basah

moasah

Within

dedalam

sisedalam

Dry

kring

magangu

Light (in

ringan

demaugat

Sound

bunyi

uni

[weight)

Light

traiig

mahwanug

Heavy

brat

maugat

Darkness

glap

malibutang

Above

de atas

sekapruan

Black

hitam

mahitam

Below

de bawa

sekababa-

White

putih

maputih

an

Red

merah

inarega

Behind

de blakailg

selikud

Yellow

kuning

binaning

Before

de muka

sesuilguran

Blue

biru

Between

antara

Green

ijau

Here

sini

sika

Country

negri

ingud

There

sana

ruka

Earth

tanali

lupa

Far

jauli

muatan

Stone

batu

watu

Near

dekat

maube

Gold

mas

bulawan

Where

mana

autuna

Silver

perak

At

de

Iron

besi

putau

To

ka

a

Mountain

gunong

palau

From

deri

si

Valley

lembah

All

samoa

lafigunyen

Cave

guah

pasu

Many

baniak

madakal

Hill

bukit

gunong

Few

sedikit

meitu

Plain

padane

Small

kechil

meitu

Island

pulau

Large

besar

mala

Water

ayer

aig

Like

serupa

maglsan

Sea

laut

kaludan

Now

sakarafig

araei

River

sungei

When

bila

Air

udara

Then

lcamudien

mauri

Wind

angin

undu

To-morrow

besok

araag

Hurricane

ribut

VOL. II.

27

418

APPENDICES,

—

MALAY.

LAXUN.

—

MALAY.

LANUN.

North

utara

Swallow

layang lay-

lelayang

West

barat

[ang

South

saliitan

Crow

gagak

East

timor

Cage

sangkar

kuroiigan

Cloud

a wan

Snake

ular

nipai

Rainbow

palangi

datu bagua

Frog

katak

babak

Rain

ujan

Fish

ikan

seda

Lightning

kilat

Crab

katam

leagan

Thunder

tagar

guntur

Prawn

udang

Day

hari

gau-i

Coral

karang bu-

Night

malam

magabi

[nga

Morning

siaiig

maplta

Butterfly

kupu

Sun

matahari

Bee

lebah

tabuan

Noon

tafigah hari

Fly

lalat

Sky

lan git

Mosquito

niamok

Moon

bulan

ulan

Louse

kuku

Star

bintang

bituan

Ant

semut

Hot

panas

mai-au

Spider

laba laba

Fire

api

apui

Horn

tandok

Burn

bakar

pegiau fan-

Tail

ikur

ikug

[gka) !

Feather

bulu

bumbul

Smoke

asap

bul

Wings

sayap .

Ashes

abu

Egg

telur

urak

Cocoanut

kalapa

niug

Honey

madu

Plantain

pisang

saging

Wax

lilin

taru

Paddy

padi

ilau

Body

badan

ginau-a

Rice

bras

begas

Head

kapala

ulu

Pumpkin

labu

Hair

rambut

bok

Yam

ubi

Face

muka

biyas

Seed

biji

Ear

teliiiga

Tree

puhn

Eye

mata

Root

akar

Nose

idong

ngirong

Leaf

daun

raun

Cheek

pipi

Flower

bufiga

Mouth

mulut

ngari

Fruit

buah

Lip

bibir

Raw

mantah

melau

Tooth

gigi

ngipan

Ripe

masak

mialiitu

Tongue

ledah

Elephant

gajah

Hand

taiigan

lima

Tiger

rimau

i Finger

jari

kamai

Deer

rusa

seladung

Thumb

ibu jari

Bear

bruang

Nail

kuku

Horse

kuda

Belly

prut

tian

Buffalo

karbau

Foot

kaki

ay

Cow

sapi betina

sapi babai

Bone

tulang

tulun

Goat

kambing

Flesh

daging

sapu

Dog

anjiDg

asu

Skin

kulit

Hog

babi

babui

Fat

gumok

masabua

Monkey

munyit

Lean

krus

megasa

Cat

kuching

bedong

Blood

dara

rugu

Mouse

(kechil) ti-

ria (maitu)

Saliva

ludah

[kus

Sweet

peluh

ating

Rat (besai)

tikus

dumpau

Hard (as a

kras

matagas

Squirrel

tupei

[stone)

Bird

burong

papanok

Soft

lunak

melemak

Domestic

ay am

Hot

pan:»s

mai-au

[fowl

Cold

sej uk

matanggau

Duck

itek

I Thirsty

aus

kaur

Kite

alang

1 Hungry

iapar

megutaii

Sparrow

1 Pipit

1 papanok

j Sour

masam

APPENDICES,

419

—

MALAY.

LANUN.

—

MALAY.

LANUN.

Sweet

manis

Bring

haw a

sepuat

Bitter

pait

Take away

kaluarkan

gumau

Smell

bau

Kill

bunoh

Fragrant

harum

mapia bau

I

aku

sakun

Stinking

anyir

maratai bau

Mine

aku punia

quon sakun

Sick

sakit

masakit

Thou

angkau

seka

Dead

mati

matai

Thine

angkau pu-

quonka

Eat

malcan

kuman

[uia

Drink

minum

He, she, it

diya

gia

See

lihat

ilai

His, &c.

diya punia

quon gia

Laugh

tertawa

We ( inclu -

...

sakun

Weep

tangis

semagud

sive or ab-

Kiss

chium

solute )

Speak

kata

taroh

Our ( inclu -

quon akun

Be silent

diam

gumanug

[sire)

Hear

dun gar

makanug

We ( exclu -

sakun

Lift

angkat

sepuat

sive or re -

Walk

jalan

lumalakan

lative)

Run

lari

melagui

Out (exclu-

...

quon akuu

Stand

diri

tumatindug

|~Wve)

Sit

duduk

muntud

You

angkau

seka

Climb

panjat

pamusug

Your

angkau pu-

quon kii

Sleep

tidor

tumurug

[nia

Awake

bafigun

They

diya

gia

Recollect

kanal

Their

diya punia

quon gia

Know

tau

katauan

This

ini

Forget

lupa

kalipatan

That

itu

Ask

preksa

Which

iang

Answer

saut

sumbug

Who

siapa

antawa

Under-

mengarti

matau

What

apa

autuna

[stand

Food

makan-an

Yes

iya

Rice, boiled

nasi

bagas

No

tidak

da

Sugar

gula

Beautiful

elok

mapia

Oil

ininiak

lanah

Ugly

rupa jahat

marata

Milk

susu

Pleased

suka

mesuap

Flesh

daging

sapu

Sorry

susah

Boil

rebus

Afraid

takut

kaluk

Broil

goring

Shame

malu

kaya

Salt

garam

timus

Love

kasuka-an

masuat

Clothes

pakei-an

Hate

binchi

Earring

krabu

Anger

marah

membungut

Chawat

chawat

bilad

Wish

mau

kiugan

House

rumah

wali

Right

betul

metidu

Wood

kayu

Wrong

salah

masalah

Posts

tiang (ru-

Good

baik

mapia

[mail)

Bad

jahat

marata

Door

pintu

True

benar

Ladder

tangga

False

dusta

bukug

Bed

tumpat tidor

turugan

Wait

nanti

gumaganug

Mat

tikur

dumpas

Come

datang

makoma

Box

peti

kaban

Go

pergi

sumong

Road

jalan

malakau

Meet

temu

Bridge

jambatan

Hide

bunyi(s)ta-

tapok

Bow

panah

[pok

Arrow

anakpanah

Search

chari

pengilei

Spear

tombak

bangkau

Find

dapat

makiia

Sword

pedang

Give

kasih

begai

Chopping-

parang

pud uk

Take

ambil

kua

[ knife

420

APPENDICES,

—

MALAY.

LANUN.

MALAY.

LAN UN.

Boat

praliu

awang

Son

anak laki-

wata mama

Canoe

sampan

[laki

Spirit

hantu

Daughter

anak per-

wata babai

Man

lakilaki

mama

[ampuan

Woman

perampuan

babai

Brother

sudaralaki-

pegari ma-

Husband

laki

karuma

[laki

[ma

Wife

bini

karuma

Sister

suiara per-

pegari babai

Father

bapa

ama

[ampuan

Mother

ma

ina

Old

tuah

lukus

Grand-

nenek

Young

ruuda

meiiguda

[father

Boy

budak

wata

Child

anak

wata

Girl

anak dara

raga

TUE END.

London : Printed by Smith, Elder & Co., Little Green Arbour Court, Old Bailey, E.C.

• !»*

V

( vw

y c ^ r V. V ^

DS646.3 .S14 v. 2

Life in the forests of the Far East.

Princeton Theological Seminary-Speer Library

1 1012 00023 4221

^ t ^ v v v'wu ^