,': THE LIFE AND TIMES OF HENRY LORD BROUGHAM i.i WKITTEN BY HIMSELF w o I IN THREE VOLUMES VOL. I. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDCCCLXXI The Right of Translation is reserved -E.1 wowGMOM CONTENTS OF FIRST VOLUME. CHAPTER I. Wit. PAGS MY BIRTH AND CHILDHOOD — PRECOCITY, AS TOLD BY MY MOTHER PARENTAGE AND ANCESTRY — WHY MY FATHER SETTLED IN EDINBURGH HIS MARRIAGE THERE MY MOTHER'S HIGH- LAND ANCESTRY, THROUGH THE STRUAN ROBERTSONS DEATH OF MY PATERNAL GRANDFATHER SAVAGE FESTIVITIES AT HIS FUNERAL ANECDOTES TOLD ME BY MY FATHER'S MO- THER CHARACTER OF MY MATERNAL GRANDMOTHER THE HIGH SCHOOL OF EDINBURGH DR ADAM THE RECTOR GILBERT STUART MY PROGRESS AT SCHOOL MY SCHOOL- FELLOWS FAMILY REMINISCENCES — ROBERTSON THE HIS- TORIAN AND HIS FATHER THE ADAMS JOHN CLERK OF ELDIN HIS NAVAL TACTICS LORD BUCHAN AND HIS BROTHERS TOM AND HARRY ERSKINE, . . . 1-56 CHAPTER II. ^arlg EKe. (Continued.} I LEAVE THE HIGH SCHOOL AT BROUGHAM WITH A TUTOR TALE AFTER THE MANNER OF RASSELAS 1 ENTER THE COL- LEGE OF EDINBURGH WITH FOLKESTONE, AFTERWARDS LORD RADNOR MY EARLY EFFORTS IN MATHEMATICS AND ME- 212204 IV CONTENTS. CHANICS OPTICS, CHEMISTRY JOSEPH BLACK, JAMES WATT MY FIRST SPEECH AT THE ROYAL MEDICAL SOCIETY 1 STUDY ORATORY 1 FOUND THE JUVENILE LITERARY SOCIETY BECOME A MEMBER OF THE SPECULATIVE SOCIETY PEDES- TRIAN RAMBLES APOLLO CLUB, AND HIGH JINKS FEATS OF EDINBURGH BURSCHEN — HERON'S PLAY DAMNED — I GO ON A YACHTING EXPEDITION AMONG THE WESTERN ISLES MY FELLOW-TRAVELLER CHARLES STUART (STUART DE ROTHSAY) ISLAY LIFE AT SEA ST KILDA — STORNOWAY CROSS TO ELSINORE, 57-112 CHAPTER III. lvteit to Sf nmarfc ant) j&canttinabta. JOURNAL OF VISIT TO DENMARK AND SCANDINAVIA LANDING AT ELSINORE — TRAVELLING IN DENMARK COPENHAGEN OB- JECTS OF INTEREST — COLLEGE LIBRARY — 'PALACE THE TOWN AND THE PEOPLE THE THEATRE THE EXCHANGE THE CON- STITUTION OF DENMARK — SOCIAL CONVENTIONALISM ADMINIS- TRATION OF JUSTICE KING CHRISTIAN AND HIS COURT JOUR- NEY TO HELSINGBORG TRAVELLING IN SWEDEN DANISH AND SWEDISH PEASANTRY COMPARED — SCENERY ADVENTURES STOCKHOLM ARCHITECTURE PUBLIC PLACES JEALOUSY OF FOREIGNERS SCIENCE AND LETTERS SITTING OF THE ACADEMY OF SCIENCES SWEDISH ARTISTS AND THEIR WORKS SOCIAL CONDITION IMMORALITY AND CRIME GUSTAVUS III. AND GUSTAVUS IV. PERSONAL ANECDOTES OF ROYALTY RUSSIAN AND FRENCH INFLUENCE, AND JEALOUSY OF BRITAIN THE ARMY REVENUE TRADE AND CURRENCY LANGUAGE POLICE RELIGION A CLAIRVOYANT DEPARTURE FROM STOCKHOLM TO UPSALA COUNTRY PALACE OF GUSTAVUS III. RURAL AFFAIRS REINDEER WILD ANIMALS RUNIC AN- TIQUITIES UPSALA CATHEDRAL UNIVERSITY C A STLE JOURNEY CONTINUED TOWARDS NORWAY VISIT BY LANTERN- LIGHT TO THE FALLS OF TROLLHATTEN GOTEBORG OR GOT- TENBORG SCOTS RESIDENTS A GHOST STORY WINTER TRAVELLING THE FROZEN FIORDS SLEDGING GLIMPSES OF SOCIAL LIFE IN FREDERIKSHALD PRIVATE THEATRICALS VOYAGE HOME — NARROW ESCAPE FROM SHIPWRECK, 113-222 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. ant) t£ MY OPINION OF MY FRIEND CHARLES STUART - DEATH OF MY BROTHER PETER - 1 AM ADMITTED ADVOCATE - PROFESSION DISTASTEFUL - CORRESPONDENCE WITH SIR JOSEPH BANKS — WORK AT "COLONIAL POLICY" — LEADING MEN OF THE SCOTCH BAR - HARRY ERSKINE - BLAIR - CHARLES HOPE - MACONOCHIE (LORD MEADOWBANK) - CRANSTOUN (LORD CORE- HOUSE) - JAMES REDDIE— WALTER SCOTT - JEFFREY - THE 'EDINBURGH REVIEW' — SYDNEY SMITH'S ACCOUNT CRITICISED — JEFFREY'S AND HORNER'S ACCOUNT — MY OWN HISTORY OF IT - THE EARLY CONTRIBUTORS AND THEIR CONTRIBUTIONS - PROGRESS OF THE ' REVIEW/ AND ITS INFLUENCE ON POLITICS AND LITERATURE - LIST OF CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE EARLY NUMBERS, AND NAMES OF THEIR AUTHORS - ANECDOTES OF JEFFREY AND HIS COADJUTORS .... 223-270 CHAPTER V. £Tour tljtouglj fOoilaut) ant) £talr>. NOTES OF A RAMBLE ON THE CONTINENT - CLOSED TO THE BRITISH, AND NECESSARY TO OBTAIN AMERICAN PAPERS - THE VOYAGE - THE HELDER - TRACES OF THE BRITISH EXPEDITION - AMSTERDAM - UTRECHT - DELFT - DUTCH APPRECIATION OF THE ' COLONIAL POLICY ' - RYSWICK - DISCUSSION ON THE SLAVE TRADE - PROJECTS FOR CO-OPERATION IN ABOLITION - THE HAGUE - A SITTING OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY - HAAR- LEM - DUSSELDORF AND ITS PICTURE-GALLERY - THE RHINE - VENICE - PICTURES — JOURNEY THROUGH ITALY — NAPLES - POMPEII - THE GROTTO DEL CANE - ROME - ST PETERS AND THE VATICAN, ....... 271-308 CHAPTER VI. iToluntccring project, ant i$iteston to Portugal. NARRATIVE OF PROJECTS AS TO VOLUNTEERS AND MILITIA - RECEPTION OF THEM BY GOVERNMENT - ESTIMATE OF THE VI CONTENTS. EFFICIENCY OF SUCH A FORCE IN COMPARISON WITH REGULAR TROOPS NOTICES OF THE YOUNGER PITT LADY HESTER STANHOPE — LORD LIVERPOOL LORD CASTLEREAGH FOX DESIGNS OF NAPOLEON ON THE SPANISH PENINSULA CONDI- TION OF PORTUGAL SPECIAL MISSION TO PORTUGAL MY SHARE IN IT — LORD ST VINCENT LORD ROSSLYN GENERAL SIMCOE THE BRITISH FLEET IN THE TAGUS — PROJECT FOR THE SEIZURE OF THE ROYAL FAMILY, AND THE REMOVAL OF THEM TO THE BRAZILS ANECDOTES OF LORD ST VINCENT DEATH OF FOX MINISTERIAL RUMOURS — CONCLUSION OF THE MISSION, 309-375 CHAPTER VII. politics of tjfjc Dajy. HOME POLITICS WHITBREAD's MOTION ON THE STATE OF THE NATION NEGRO EMANCIPATION AND THE LOCAL PRESS OF THE SUGAR COLONIES CONTINENTAL POLITICS IN 1807 CORRESPONDENCE WITH LORD HOWICK CONTINUATION ON HIS BECOMING EARL GREY FOREIGN POLITICS AGAIN— PER- SONAL PROSPECTS CONSIDERATION OF THE BAR AS A PRO- FESSION SELECTION OF THE NORTHERN CIRCUIT PRACTICE AND POLITICS CORRESPONDENCE ABOUT SPAIN, PORTUGAL, AND THE FIRST PENINSULAR WAR COURT POLITICS THE QUEEN AND THE PRINCE OF WALES RESUMPTION OF CORRE- 376-429 CHAPTER VIII. l^ome anfc ^Foreign ^oltticg, 1809. THE PENINSULAR WAR SIR JOHN MOORE, HIS RETREAT AND DEATH VICTORY AT CORUNNA INQUIRY INTO THE CONDUCT OF THE DUKE OF YORK FRENCH AND AUSTRIAN WAR ON THE DANUBE FRANCE AND SPAIN HOME POLITICS ATTEMPT TO FORM A COALITION MINISTRY SPENCER PERCEVAL AND EARL GREY CANNING CRITICISMS ON THE CONDUCT OF THE WAR IN THE PENINSULA THE PRINCESS OF WALES AND CANNING CANNING, CASTLEREAGH, AND LORD WELLESLEY ESTIMATE OF SIR JOHN MOORE, ...... 430-488 CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTER IX. CONGRATULATIONS ON THE ELECTION OP LORD GRENVILLE AS CHANCELLOR OF OXFORD - INFLUENCE ON THE "CATHOLIC CLAIMS " - QUESTION OF GOING INTO PARLIAMENT — CONFLICT- ING CLAIMS OF LAW AND POLITICS - DUKE OF BEDFORD'S OFFER OF A SEAT - 1 ACCEPT, AND AM RETURNED FOR CAMEL- FORD - FIRST SPEECH ON WHITBREAD's MOTION AGAINST LORD CHATHAM, IN REFERENCE TO THE SCHELDT EXPEDITION - FLOGGING IN THE ARMY, AND CASE OF THE HUNTS - JEFFREY AND THE REVIEW - LORD ERSKINE - THE REGENCY QUESTION - MINISTERIAL DIFFICULTIES - TO SERVE UNDER LORD GREY ON A " SUPPOSED EVENT " - JOHN ARCHIBALD MURRAY - THE PENINSULAR WAR - SEAT FOR CAMELFORD NO LONGER AVAIL- ABLE, AND QUESTION OF CONTESTING WORCESTER IN THE " POPULAR " INTEREST - PROSPECTS OF CONTINENTAL POLI- TICS, ........ 489-534 APPENDIX OF NOTES, 535-552 PORTRAIT FROM THE PAINTING BY SIR THOMAS LAW- RENCE, ....... Frontispiece. 537 TO THE READER. THE following instructions were given by Lord Brougham to me, as his executor : — " Before the Autobiography can be published, you must see that it is arranged chronologically. " If (writing from memory) I have made mistakes in dates, or in proper names, let such be corrected ; but the Narrative is to be printed, AS I HAVE WRITTEN IT. " I alone am answerable for all its statements, faults, and omissions. I will have no Editor em- ployed to alter, or rewrite what I desire shall be published, as EXCLUSIVELY MY OWN. "BROUGHAM, November 1867." In publishing Lord Brougham's Autobiography, the above explicit directions, have been scrupulously obeyed. BROUGHAM & VAUX, BROUGHAM, January 1871. THE LIFE AND TIMES OF HENRY LORD BROUGHAM. CHAPTER I. • -: i V » ' 0 . > • . 8) , lEarlg 3Ltfe. MY BIRTH AND CHILDHOOD — PRECOCITY, AS TOLD BY MY MOTHER — PARENTAGE AND ANCESTRY — WHY MY FATHER SETTLED IN EDINBURGH — HIS MARRIAGE THERE — MY MOTHER'S HIGHLAND ANCESTRY, THROUGH THE STRUAN ROBERTSONS — DEATH OF MY PATERNAL GRANDFATHER — SAVAGE FESTIVITIES AT HIS FUNE- RAL— ANECDOTES TOLD ME BY MY FATHER'S MOTHER — CHAR- ACTER OF MY MATERNAL GRANDMOTHER — THE HIGH SCHOOL OF EDINBURGH — DR ADAM THE RECTOR GILBERT STUART — MY PROGRESS AT SCHOOL — MY SCHOOLFELLOWS FAMILY REMINISCENCES — ROBERTSON THE HISTORIAN AND HIS FATHER — THE ADAMS JOHN CLERK OF ELDIN HIS NAVAL TACTICS — LORD BUCHAN AND HIS BROTHERS TOM AND HARRY ERSKINE. I HAD frequently been asked by persons whose opinion I value, to write a Life of myself, with some account of the many great public events of my time. In undertaking this task, I cannot but regret that I did not some years ago begin to put down many VOL. I. A 2 EARLY LIFE. details which I now may find it difficult to recall, with that accuracy which a narrative professing to be in many respects historical, essentially requires, and to note down many circumstances relating to myself and others which I may now find it impos- sible to remember. My present object is to relate, as far as my mem- ory will serve, some circumstances of my early life, which may form a sort of introduction to my auto- biography, and to my account of matters of higher importance. ;\I found amtaig my mother's papers, at Brougham, tjie, , fragment -of ' -a notice respecting me she had begun-1' to'- wTife '-a good many years ago. I am tempted to give it exactly in her own words, because it accurately represents her own impressions; and so little was she given to laudation or exaggeration, that what she has recorded of my early years may be received as perfectly impartial. I only regret the briefness of her notes : — "NOTES ABOUT HENKY." " BROUGHAM, Oct. 1826. " In putting down what may hereafter be read with some interest, I feel how unequal I am to the task. His years of infancy and youth passed with- out my contemplating that he would fill so high a place among men as he now does, or I should have kept memorandums that would have preserved in my memory many circumstances that would have thrown EARLY LIFE. 3 light upon his early life, and shown how soon his great mental powers showed themselves. From a very tender age he excelled all his cotemporaries. Nothing to him was a labour — no task prescribed that was not performed long before the time ex- pected. His grandmother, a very clever woman, was an enthusiastic admirer of all intellectual acquire- ments, and used to compare him to the Admir- able Chreighton, from his excelling in everything he undertook. From mere infancy he showed a marked attention to everything he saw, and this before he could speak. Afterwards, to everything he heard, and he had a memory the most retentive. He spoke distinctly, several words, when he was eight months and two weeks old ; and this aptitude to learn continued progressive. When barely seven years old, he was sent to the High School in Edin- burgh, his father preferring that school to Eton or Westminster. He went to school before the 19th of September 1785, having been born on that day in the year 1778, at No. 21, north side of St Andrew's Square. He went through all the classes with credit, and came away dux of the fifth or rector's class, taught at that time by Dr Adam. "The examination was in August 1791, at which time he had not reached the age of thirteen — an age unusually early, considering, too, that he had been only one year, instead of two, the usual number, in the rector's class. " As, then, when he left it, he had not completed his 4 EARLY LIFE. thirteenth year, he was considered too young to be sent to college ; and therefore we left Edinburgh and went to Brougham, taking with us the three eldest boys, and Mr, afterwards Dr, Mitchell, as their tutor. We did not return to Edinburgh till the winter of 1792; and Henry was then entered at the class which is called the Humanity class. Next year he attended the Greek class, taught by Professor Dalzell. In ad- dition to these classical studies he attended the classes of natural philosophy and chemistry, and of mathe- matics under Professor Playfair, a great and good man, who bore ample testimony to the large amount of knowledge Henry had acquired when he was only sixteen. When he was about this age, he wrote a very able paper on ' The Eefraction of Light/ which gained the prize adjudged to that subject by a Ger- man university. By some mistake, he never got the prize, but he did get the honour. At a very early age he showed considerable talent for speaking in public : really, in infancy, I may say, he showed this tendency ; for he used to get up a make-believe court of justice for the trial of a supposed prisoner — he himself acting as counsel, prosecuting the prisoner, examining the witnesses, summing up the case, and ending by passing sentence. Before he was seventeen, he became a member of the Speculative Society, a debating club which met weekly from six to ten in the evening, or even later. There he distinguished himself both for close reasoning and even for speak- ing that almost amounted to eloquence. But he was EARLY LIFE. 5 most distinguished for close argument and extreme quickness and readiness in reply — sometimes seasoned with perhaps a little too much sarcasm. I have said we took a tutor to Brougham, but really he was more wanted for my two other sons, because Henry always did his work by himself, scorning assistance, and never applying for help when he could possibly avoid it." Among the earliest of my own recollections is the account my father's mother gave me of the circum- stance which led to her son's marriage with my mother. My grandmother was born in Queen Anne's reign, so that I have conversed with a person who was alive a hundred and eighty years ago, and who might have heard her relative, Ann Brougham, who lived to the age of a hundred and six, speak of events that hap- pened in Queen Elizabeth's time ! This is only con- jecture ; but it is at all events a certain fact that I, now writing in the latter half of the nineteenth cen- tury, have heard my grandmother, being, at the time I refer to, about ninety years of age, relate all the circumstances of the execution of Charles L, as they had been told to her by an eyewitness who stood opposite to Whitehall and saw the King come out upon the scaffold. I think the story was told to her about the year 1720, and she talked of her informant as having been quite old enough at the time of the execution to have carried away a clear and accurate 6 EARLY LIFE. recollection of all the details. Her own memory was most perfect ; nor did the event appear to her to be so very remote, for she herself perfectly remembered the attempt of the Pretender in 1715 — not that she ever called him by that name, for she was rather a Jacobite, but yet a very High Church Protestant, continually fighting with her neighbour Mr Howard of Corby, a most strict Papist, about transubstantia- tion, which she called by a very expressive term, when she referred to one of their angry discussions, which Mr Howard ended by exclaiming, " It's no good your denying it, Madam Brougham, for I myself have crunched the bones!" — meaning when he took the sacramental wafer. She had a strong feeling for Charles II., and enter- tained a high regard for her husband's cousin, Father John Hudleston, who attended Charles in his last moments. But to return to my father's marriage. My grand- mother told me that he left Eton before the accession of George III., and for some years travelled on the Continent ; his brother John, then captain of the school, going to Cambridge, as he was intended for the Church. On my father's return to Westmorland, he fell in love with his cousin, Mary Whelpdale, the last of a perfectly pure Saxon race. Her father's estate, to which she was sole heiress, was close to Brougham, so that the alliance was all that could be wished. Everything was in readiness for the nuptials — the EARLY LIFE. / wedding -coach, bought, and all the paraphernalia prepared. The very day before the wedding Mary Whelpdale died. My father, struck down by the shock, lost for a time the use of his reason. He was again sent abroad, but on his return to "Westmorland, found the scene of his calamity unendurable. A very intimate friend of my grandfather, Lord Buchan, lived some- times at Dryburgh Abbey, in Scotland, and sometimes in Edinburgh. To him my father was consigned, in the hopes that, introduced by him to the best Edin- burgh society, he might find occupation and distrac- tion enough to dissipate his grief."* Accordingly to Edinburgh he went, and there, among other distinguished personages, made the acquaintance of Dr Kobertson, at whose house he met his eldest sister, then a widow, and her only child Eleanor. This acquaintance ended in a marriage, and then my father and his bride moved to St Andrew's Square, to the house in which Lord and Lady Buchan lived, and there I was born on the 19th September 1778.t It has often struck me that what seemed to my father an irretrievable calamity, may have been the means of saving me from obscurity. If Mary Whelp- dale had been my mother, she would no doubt have materially enriched the Saxon blood I derived from my father ; but I should have remained in the state of respectable mediocrity which seems to have charac- terised my many ancestors, none of whom, so far as I * Lord Buchan — see Appendix I. f Dr Robertson — see App. II. 8 EARLY LIFE. have been able to discover, were ever remarkable for anything. Many, no doubt, were fighters, but even in that career of doubtful usefulness were rather pru- dent than daring. Thus Udardus, who had the cus- tody of Appleby Castle, instead of keeping it for his employer, Henry II., allowed William the Lion of Scotland to take it, and appears even to have gone over to the enemy. This, indeed, is incontestably proved by the Pipe Koll, 22 Henry II., an official copy of which, stamped with the seal of the Public Eecord Office, is now before me, and is in these words : " Ite de Placitis eorundem in Westmarieland. Vdardus cle Broham redd. comp. de qor ta xx. m. quia fuit cu ini- micis Peg." After he had paid his fine, as appears by a record of a subsequent date, he turned crusader ; but instead of fighting and dying for the Holy Sepul- chre, he returned to Brougham, and there died quietly in his bed. His son and successor, Gilbert de Broham, paid fifty marks to King John, " ut remaneat, ne transfretet, termin' ad passag, Dm Peg.," as appears in the Oblata Poll of the second year of the reign of King John, preserved in the Tower of London ; so, instead of going to fight with the King's army in Normandy, he paid this fine that he might be allowed to stay at home. He afterwards got into hot water with King John, who mulcted him of half of the diminished estate he had inherited from Uclard, and gave it to his creature Veteriporit, from whom it passed to the Cliffords, and from them to the Tuftons. Nor do I find we improved EARLY LIFE. 9 in intellect even after an infusion of very pure Norman blood, which came into our veins from Harold, Lord of Vaux, in Normandy. I think, then, I am fairly entitled to argue that I, at least, owe much to the Celtic blood which my mother brought from the clans of Struan and Kinloch- Moidart.* I heard also from my grandmother a remark- able story about her husband's funeral. He died at Brougham in December 1 782. Neither my father, nor his brother John, were then in Westmorland. Charles, Duke of Norfolk (father of the Duke who went by the name of the "Jockey of Norfolk," after his ancestor of Bosworth), was then living at Greystoke, in Cumber- land, and being a most intimate friend of the family, attended the funeral as representing the chief mourner. In that character his place was at the head of the table at the funeral feast, where he was supported by all the gentlemen of the county. After the dinner the Duke rose and addressed the guests as follows : — " Friends and neighbours, before I give you the toast of the day, the memory of the deceased, I ask you to drink to the health of the family physician, Dr Harrison, the founder of the feast ! " Many toasts followed. The guests drank long and deeply. The funeral then proceeded on its way to the parish church of Brougham, called Nine Churches, a corruption of St Ninian, to whom it is dedicated, a distance of three miles, the road winding along the * See Appendix II. 10 EARLY LIFE. ie steep banks of the river Eamont. Arrived at tl church, the hearse was met by the rector, but the coffin had disappeared ! The shock was enough to sober the merry mourners. On searching back, the coffin was discovered in the river, into which it had fallen, pitched down the steep bank, at a place where probably the hearse, driven by the drunken coachman, had lurched against a rock. The oak outer coffin was broken to pieces, but the lead remained intact at the bottom of the river, too heavy to be carried down by the stream. The shock and the scandal produced by all this had the effect not only of sobering everybody, but of putting an end to such disgraceful orgies in the county for the future. The accuracy of my grand- mother's story was strongly confirmed by an event which happened many years afterwards. In October 1846, the wall of our vault in the chancel of Nine Churches had given way: on the vault being opened to make the necessary repairs, I myself saw the lead coffin of my grandfather battered and bulged from its tumble down the rocky bank of the river. My grandmother well remembered the events of 1745, for she was then past the middle age of life, and the mother of several children, my father having been born in June 1742. She used to talk of the stirring events of that time, the battle of Clifton Moor, the burial of a number of " Willie's dragoons" (the Duke of Cumberland) in a ditch by the river Lowther, close to Brougham, and the executions at Carlisle. But these were comparatively recent events, and had EARLY LIFE. II little interest even for me, compared to her account of the execution of Charles. I have alluded to the intimacy that existed between my grandfather's family and the Howards of Norfolk. Among many letters now at Brougham from different members of that family, but on subjects too private for publication, I give, as a specimen of the style and habits of the time, the following, verbatim et liter- atim : — " NORFOLK HOUSE, March 9 [1778]. " The Duchess of Norfolk presents her compliments to the two Miss Broughams. She has taken the liberty to send 30 yds. of silk, with triming, for a night gown & pettycoat for each, which I hope they will do me the favour to accept of. " The Duchess desires her compliments to Mrs Brougham. " To the two Miss Broughams." So much for my paternal grandmother; but I should be most ungrateful if I said nothing of my other grandmother, Dr Kobertson's sister, for to her I owe all my success in life. From my earliest infancy till I left college, with the exception of the time we passed at Brougham with my tutor, Mr Mitchell, I was her companion. Eemarkable for beauty, but far more for a masculine intellect and clear understanding, she in- stilled into me from my cradle the strongest desire for information, and the first principles of that persever- ing energy in the pursuit of every kind of knowledge 12 EARLY LIFE. which, more than any natural talents I may possess, has enabled me to stick to, and to accomplish, how far successfully it is not for me to say, every task I ever undertook. I was sent when very young to a day-school in George Street, Edinburgh, kept by a Mr Stalker, a sort of infant school, in which girls as well as boys were the pupils. Before I went there my father had taught me to read ; but my grandmother, from day to day, worked with me at my lessons, so that when I was only seven years old I had outgrown Mr Stalker's academy, and was sent to Luke Fraser's class at the High School. All the time I was there, my grand- mother was my daily help and instructress : under her careful tuition I not only won and kept a good place in my class, but, with a perseverance that almost amounted to obstinacy, I on one occasion made Fraser confess he had been wrong and I right, in some dis- puted bit of Latinity for which he had the day before punished me. My victory gained me immense credit with all my schoolfellows, and I was called " the boy that had licked the master." I am bound to say Mr Fraser bore no malice, and when I left him to go into the rector's (Dr Adam's) class, we parted the best of friends. I remained in the class of Luke Fraser, according to the course of that seminary, for four years, from September 1785, when I was seven years old, to October 1789, when I entered the class of the rector, Dr Adam, under whom I was two years nominally, EARLY LIFE. 13 but really only the second of these two, having been kept at home by illness almost the whole of the first year.* During some months of that year, before I fell ill, I had a private tutor, Mr, afterwards Dr, Mitchell, an excellent scholar, who afterwards went to India as a medical man, and died in the service of the Eajah of Travancore, whose chief physician he became. I had, however, the great benefit, before my illness, of attending Dr Adam's class, and hearing daily his com- ments upon the classics which we read, interspersed with his general remarks upon political subjects and allusions to the great events then engrossing the attention of the world, for the French Eevolution had broken out three months before his course began. He was a zealous friend of liberty, and in those times and in that place was termed a democrat. Yet with all the violence of party and the influence of the predominant powers — the Dundases — no excep- tion was taken to his dwelling on those topics in illustration of, and in connection with, the books he taught. Of course, three or four years later, when party violence was at its height, but when the crimes of the French mob had alienated many admirers of the Revolution, he carefully abstained from such sub- jects, though he still continued of that class which clung to the Eevolution more or less, in spite of its crimes. His great learning, his able and useful works, * An account of Luke Fraser will be found in Steven's * History of the High School of Edinburgh,' p. 92. Dr Alexander Adam, the rector, of whom so much interesting matter follows, is sufficiently eminent to be commemorated in the usual works of biographical reference. 14 EARLY LIFE. and his irreproachable character, as well as his untir- ing diligence and exemplary patience in the discharge of his duties, commanded the respect of all, and endeared him to those who had the inestimable benefit of his instruction. He had the faculty of exciting both an ardent love of the subjects he taught, and a spirit of inquiry into all that related to them. Stirred by his precepts and example, I spent the months dur- ing which I was kept from school by indisposition, in reading and trying my hand at composition. The progress I made during this illness clearly proved to me two things : first, the importance of allowing boys sufficient time for reading, instead of devoting the whole day, as at school, to Latin and Greek exercises ; next, the great benefit of having a teacher who would dwell upon subjects connected with the lessons he taught, but beyond those lessons, thus exciting the desire of useful knowledge in his pupils. Dr Adam had been violently assailed for his ex- cellent Grammar by Gilbert Stuart, who had also attacked Dr Eobertson's ' History of Scotland/ in various reviews both in London and in one which he established in Edinburgh. Stuart was in both in- stances, and, indeed, in all his writings, entirely influ- enced by his violent temper and his self-interest. The historian was attacked because he was supposed to have, as Principal, defeated his attempts to obtain a professorship ; the grammarian was attacked because his work had superseded one by Stuart's cousin, Eud- diman. Stuart was a man of extraordinary talent EARLY LIFE. 15 and learning, displayed in many works, one of which, published before he was of age, obtained for him the degree of Doctor of Laws. But his profligate life and want of all principle brought him into contempt ; and his works, some of which have great merit, have sunk into oblivion, in consequence of the spite and the un- fairness that runs through them, and deprives them of all trustworthiness/"" I returned to school, my health being re-established. The work did not at all oppress me, and I left it at the head of the class and of the school — what is there called dux. This was in some respects accidental. I was at the head of the class with Keay (afterwards high at the Scotch bar), and acknowledged him my superior, — possibly from his having attended the whole of the former year.t I never disputed the place with him ; but on his leaving Edinburgh, before the break- ing up and the examination, I succeeded to the head- ship. Horner, a year after, belonged to that class, but it was his first year under the rector. Next year he also left it at the head. Murray (afterwards Lord Murray) had been of his year, but left the school for Westminster. I had always, except during the ill- ness I have referred to, the blessing of robust health, only interrupted, when a child, by putrid fever, which produced an extraordinary effect in destroying my memory almost entirely ; for I had just learned to read, taught by my father, and I had in those ten days lost all knowledge even of the letters. I very * Gilbert Stuart — see Appendix III. f See Appendix IV. 16 EARLY LIFE. soon recovered it, and in a few weeks was sent, as I have already said, to Stalker's day-school. It is a great mistake, into which Lord Cockburn and others have fallen, the fancying that I at all distin- guished myself at the High School — a mistake caused by persons reflecting backward from one period to another. The only instance I have the least recollection of, was when the Principal of the University (Robert- son) visited the school at one of the examinations yearly held before the vacation: he said to Mr Fraser that I ought to have been at the head of his class. But the answer was, "No ; Reddie is in his right place :" and so he was. My great kinsman was deceived, not by his partiality, but by my having a better voice and delivery : the manner prevailed over the matter — as I dare to say it has often done since, on greater occasions and with a far less critical audience. Reddie was afterwards in a very high station at the Scotch bar — one of the most learned and sound lawyers of his day. Tie distinguished himself especially in the great ques- tions connected with maritime rights and international law, and enjoyed the friendship and patronage of Hope, afterwards Lord President; nor did anything prevent him from rising to the top of the profession, and to the head of the bench, but his modest, retiring, and unambitious nature, which led him to accept an oilice at Glasgow of great importance and of judicial functions, though ] nimble compared with what, by the consent of all, he was so well entitled to. It was an inestimable advantage to my studies at EARLY LIFE. i; all times that they were directed by my great kinsman the Principal, after the first impulses they had received from my grandmother, his eldest and favourite sister, and who had lived with him, having the care of his family, for many years before the marriage of either. As a matter of course, he was consulted by my father in all that regarded the education of his children. And he used to visit us at Brougham, where I well remember accompanying him upon his walks in the woods, where he would occasionally repeat aloud Greek or Latin verses. We had to deplore his irre- parable loss in 1793 ; but I recollect going to his villa in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, where he resided several months before his death, to tell him of an im- portant debate in the General Assembly, in which his son, afterwards Lord Robertson, the judge, had greatly distinguished himself. My youngest brother, although born some years after the Principal's death, was named after him, and the surname, as well as the Christian, ought certainly to have been given; but a little Cumber- land family pride prevented this, as we supposed. He always recommended translation, as tending to form the style by giving an accurate knowledge of the force of expression, and obliging us to mark and estimate the shades of difference between words in phrases in the two languages, and to find, by selecting the terms, or turning the idiom, the expression required for a given meaning; whereas when composing originally, the idea may be varied, in order to suit the diction that most easily presents itself, of which the influence produced VOL. I. B 18 EARLY LIFE. by rhymes, and moulding the sense as well as suggest- ing it, affords a striking and familiar example. He had much exercised himself, therefore, in trans- lation, and even intended to publish one of Antoninus' Meditations, done while at college. The appearance of a translation at Glasgow prevented this publication, but the manuscript remains, and is in my possession ; and the version is very ably and learnedly executed. With this strong opinion in favour of translation, which was also that of his son Lord Eobertson, both of them prescribed it to me, and among other things made me translate all the History of Florus. The fol- lowing letter to Lord Eobertson shows an extremely imperfect taste, and a considerable misconception of the task prescribed ; possibly arising from the ambi- tion of the writer : — "BROUGHAM, January 15, 1792. " DEAR SIR, — You would no doubt be surprised that I did not write to you by Mr Mitchell, who was in Edinburgh. I was prevented doing this by reason of not having finished the task you were so kind as pre- scribe to me before I left town — a task which was so very delightful that nothing could have hindered me performing it, had not Mr M. begged I would desist, until I should make some improvement in my writing, which had been spoilt by beginning too soon to scrawl versions. I was in this manner prevented from making use of your kindness for three or four months. "You will perhaps remember that you allowed me to translate either Livy or Florus. I pitched upon the EARLY LIFE. 19 latter — not that his style appeared to me any way superior to that of the other; but as I had read, partly at Edinburgh and partly here, almost the whole of the first five books of Livy (a copy of which was the only part of his works I had), it naturally occurred that there would be less field for exertion in translating an author with whose works I was acquainted, than in trying one whose works were quite new to me. Besides, I was confirmed in my choice when I recollected that you seemed to give the preference to Florus. That author, though concise and nervous, is not the less elegant and instructive. Full of vigour, and just, in his descriptions, relating the conquests of Rome in that rapid manner, as it were, in which they were acquired. As he writes in a very peculiar stile, so I thought that by a literal transla- tion his elegance would be lost. I have endeavoured, therefore, by taking a little freedom, to transfuse his beauties into the English language, without impair- ing the sense. How far I have succeeded I must leave you to judge. This I can with truth affirm, that throughout the whole of the translation I am indebted to the assistance of no one, and I hope you will ex- cuse its many defects and inaccuracies, particularly the badness of the writing. I am sorry, dear sir, that I can give you no news, as affairs in the country commonly wear a very uniform aspect. As for my studies, I have read about four books of Virgil's ^Eneid, begin- ning at the VI. ; one of Livy ; have got through above three parts of Adam's Roman Antiquities ; and 20 EARLY LIFE. am employed in the Greek verbs. "When business is over I amuse myself with reading, skaiting (sic), or walking. If you can find leisure to write me a few lines, I shall think myself particularly honoured by it. As I fear I have already tried your patience, wish- ing many happy new years to yourself and Mrs E., the college family — Kussells and Brydons — in which I am joined by all this family, I beg leave to sub- scribe myself, dear sir, yours with the greatest respect and esteem, HENRY BROUGHAM." Before I refer to my kinsman's answer, I may interpose a letter which the kindness of a member of the Kinloch-Moidart family has permitted me to use; and I give it merely as showing the local impressions made on me at the early age of thirteen. "BROUGHAM, July 14, 1792. " MY DEAR COUSIN, — As my mother, ever since the receipt of your kind letter, has been in a great bustle with company, I, at her request, take advantage of a cover which is going to your friend Mr Bell, from a gentleman who dines here to-day with a most abomin- ably formal company ; but if you expect much enter- tainment from my pen you will be disappointed, for nothing is more true than that the stillness of a coun- try life furnishes few occurrences worthy of a place in black and white. ' To go back to April : James and I spent a very agreeable week at Skirwith Abbey, the seat of a EARLY LIFE. 21 neighbouring gentleman. The house, which is modern, is a handsome building, somewhat like the Physicians' Hall, though without pillars: it is vastly naked, being placed in the midst of a moor or common, with little or no wood of any size about it, and the garden above half a mile from the house. Mr Yates's agreeable family consists of two grown-up daughters (the youngest of whom, with her mother, is now in Edin- burgh consulting Mr Bell), and three sons, the eldest about 16, the youngest 9. " About the end of June, Mr Mitchell, James, and I made an excursion to the Lakes, about twenty-five miles from this, and staid there a day or two. The lake at Keswick is certainly a most grand, romantic, and agreeable sight. A fine sheet of water expanded in the bottom of a most beautiful valley, surrounded by mountains of wood, and interspersed with woody islands (one of which is faced with a mock fortifica- tion, and is the residence of a country squire). The lake begins with a fine cascade and terminates in a beautiful river. The whole of this enchanting scene, lighted up by a most beautiful morning, presented to persons like us, unaccustomed to such sights, a picture of beauty and sublimity not to be easily forgotten. At one end is the celebrated vale of Borrowdale, at the other the neat town of Keswick, where we saw a very fine museum filled with great curiosities, both ancient and modern, but scarcely to be compared with Weir's in Edinburgh, though of a more universal nature. Be- sides the Lakes, I have been much about since spring 22 EARLY LIFE. began, and as I ride a great deal, I have seen every one of the country seats hereabouts. " I think the conduct of your wise baillies during the late riots proves them to be idiots and monsters that ought to be expunged from the face of the creation. I ought to make 1792 apologies to your sister for not answering her very kind letter, which I received by Mr Mitchell. Eead this to her, with my love, in which the rest of this family join, not forgetting my dear Peter. " Tell your good mother that Mrs Syme looks upon her letters, and those of my aunt Nelly (to whom, and all other friends, remember me), as her greatest con- solation, and that she expects a letter from them soon. We were all sorry for B. Eussell's death ; indeed, except John, I think she was by much the best of that family. " Expecting your answer by a parcel which is coming here from Mrs Hope this week, I remain your most affectionate cousin, H. P. BROUGHAM/' To go back, then, to my holiday task, the translation of Florus. I consider that my learned kinsman was much more lenient in his judgment on the work than his illustrious father would have been, whom we never thought of troubling with it. The following is his answer to my letter of January : — "April 21, 1792. "DEAR HENRY, — I should make an apology for having delayed so long to answer your letter. The truth is that I received it during the hurry of the winter session, when I could not command time ; and EARLY LIFE. 23 since the commencement of the vacation I was pre- vented for some time by indisposition, and afterwards it took me some leisure times to read your work with that attention which I wished to bestow upon it. " I have now perused it with very great pleasure, and compared a very great part of it, sentence by sentence, with the original, and I am happy that I can, with perfect sincerity, say, that high as my expectations from you were, they have been greatly exceeded. Instead of confining yourself everywhere to a literal translation, you have often given a turn to the expres- sion which shows that you entered fully into the ideas of your author, and your translation discovers a know- ledge both of the Latin and of the English far above what could have been expected. I will not say how much your translation has pleased me in another point of view, as affording a proof of industry and applica- tion, which, when joined with your abilities, cannot fail to insure your success in any line of life which you may follow. I think you should persevere in translating : it is one of the best exercises, and im- proves your knowledge both of Latin and English. "My father and mother, Mrs Eussell, Betsy and Elie, are at Lennell. John and Mary are with us. Mrs Hope and all our friends here are well. Mrs Eobertson desires to join me in best compliments to your papa, mamma, and grandmamma, and all the children. — I am, dear Henry, your affectionate cousin, "Wn. ROBERTSON. "No. 67 PRINCES STREET, April 21, 1792." 24 EARLY LIFE. Notwithstanding any vices in my translation, I cer- tainly had acquired no habit of inaccurate version, no contempt of strict closeness, or such faults must have been cured by subsequent experience and reflection, as well as the incorrect taste disclosed in the letter ; for whatever I have since attempted in prose, and still more the only efforts in verse, which the entire want of poetical faculty has confined to translation, have nothing to distinguish them but the rigorous close- ness, the whole poetical merit clearly belonging to the original. Of this an example may be given in the commotion among my Eton friends caused by my quoting from Horace in the House of Commons, when repelling some most absurd slander of the grossest description. Instead of the Latin — " Falsus honor juvat et mendax infamia terret Quern nisi mendosum et medicandum 1 " * I gave — False honour charms, and lying slander scares, Whom but the false and faulty 1 Next day, in Westminster Hall, I was mobbed by Eton friends at the bar, Jonathan Eaine at their head, calling on me to say by what right I had used words which they could not find either in Francis or elsewhere, and requiring me to declare where I had found them, but I would only answer, " No- where." No doubt the merit of extreme closeness depends •much on the frame of the original, and it may be * Hor. Ep., I. xvi. EARLY LIFE. 25 given sometimes word for word without becoming actual prose, as — " Vive vale. Si quid novisti rectius istis, Candidus imperti ; si non, his utere mecum." * Live long, farewell : if better rules you see, Candid impart ; if not, use these with me : which, literal as it is, cannot be reckoned more pro- saic than the Latin. I have often heard the great historian preach, and though very young at the time, was struck with the excellence and the usefulness of his discourses. His notions of practical moderation, and the wish to avoid the fanaticism of the High Church party (what with us would be called the Low Church, or Evangelical), led him generally to prefer moral to theological or Gospel subjects. Yet he mingled also three themes essential to the duties of a Christian pastor. He loved to dwell on the goodness of the Deity, as shown forth not only in the monuments of creation, but the work of love in the redemption of mankind. He delighted to expatiate on the fate of man in a future state of being, and to contrast the darkness of the views which the wisest of the heathens had with the perfect light of the new dispensation. He oftentimes would ex- pound the Scriptures, taking, as is the usage of the Kirk, a portion of some chapter for the subject of what is called Lecture, as contradistinguished from Sermon ; and in these discourses the richness of his learning, the remarkable clearness of his explanation, the felicity of his illustration, shone forth, as well as * Hor. Ep., I. vi. 26 EARLY LIFE. the cogency and elegance of his practical application to our duties in life, the end and aim of all his teach- ing. Such was he as a preacher. But one sermon I can never forget.* The occasion was the celebration (5th November 1788) of the cen- tenary of the Ke volution ; and his sister, considering that to have heard such a man discourse on such a subject was a thing to be remembered by any one through life ever after, took me (although only ten years old) to hear him. It was of singular and strik- ing interest, from the extreme earnestness, the youth- ful fervour, with which it was delivered. But it touched in some passages upon a revolution which he expected and saw approaching, if not begun, as well as upon the one which was long past, and almost faded from the memory in the more absorbing interest of present affairs. I well remember his referring to * " CANNES, November 1866. . . . " After what Elwin said about the notices of Robertson, Black, and others, having been already printed in the ' Lives of Men of Letters, Philosophers,' &c., I have been doing my utmost to answer his objection, by an attempt to rewrite them, but I have entirely failed. I find I cannot do this without utterly destroying any merit the original com- position may possess. Hence, these notices must remain as I have placed them in the ' Autobiography.' But you may, if you think it necessary, state where I have taken them from : it is no plagiary to steal from one's self, and I would rather state the fact, than print the notices with inverted commas. They are much too long for notes at the foot of pages ; besides, all footnotes must, if possible, be avoided. In the MS. of the other volumes, there are notices, and characters, of men at the bar and public men : I daresay some of these will be found to have been already printed. Hence, let the best mode of dealing with all these be well considered. You cannot do better than consult Forster ; but bear in mind that they must not be omitted, and that I cannot undertake to rewrite them. — Yours, H. B. "To WILLIAM BROUGHAM, Esq., Brougham, Penrith, Angleterre." EARLY LIFE. 2? the events then passing on the Continent as the fore- runners of far greater ones which he saw casting their shadows before. He certainly had no appre- hensions of mischief, but he was full of hope for the future, and his exultation was boundless in contem- plating the deliverance of "so many millions of so great a nation from the fetters of arbitrary govern- ment." His sister and I often afterwards reflected on this extraordinary discourse with wonder, and I feel quite certain of some such expressions as these hav- ing been used, and of his foretelling that our neigh- bours would one day have to celebrate such an event as had now called us together. We dined with him the same day on leaving the church, for it was the afternoon service that he had performed. His eldest son, afterwards Lord Eobertson, was of the company ; and when the Principal expressed his satisfaction at having had his presence at church (a thing by no means of weekly occurrence), the answer was : " Ay, sir, if you'll always give us such sermons, you may make it worth our while." "Ah!" answered he, " you would like it, as the boys say," referring to a vulgar taunt. I have again and again asked my learned kinsman to show me the sermon, which he admitted he possessed among his father's papers, fairly written out. His answer was that he wished to avoid giving it publicity, because, in the violence of the times, the author would be set down for a Jacobin, how innocent soever he was at the date of its being preached. Those times have happily long since passed away ; and the sermon having been found 28 EARLY LIFE. among the judge's papers, after a long and fruitless search, I am now possessed of it, written in his own hand, and can see the places where he added passages on the inspiration of the moment, particularly that above cited, my recollection of which is distinct, and is confirmed both by the conversation upon it I have often had with his sister, and by the judge's appre- hensions, who was of the strong alarmist party. It is fit that some mention should be made of Dr Kobertson's family, and of his private life as con- nected with these memoirs. His father, a Robertson of Struan, was settled for some years as minister of the Scotch Church in London Wall ; and I recollect when the affairs of that establishment came before me in the Court of Chancery, and one of the counsel connected with Scotland was beginning to explain its nature, I told him that my great-grandfather, the historian's father, had been its pastor, so that I might be excused for taking an unusual interest in its con- cerns, reminding him of the Scotch saying that blood is thicker than water. He returned to Scotland in 1718, and was settled at Borthwick, in the county of Edinburgh, having married Miss Pitcairn of Dreg- horn; and it was always remembered in the family that Sir Richard Steele, with whom he had become acquainted in London, showed his respect for him by being present at the marriage. The historian was born at Borthwick, 19th September 1721. I have been curious to ascertain the kind of genius which distinguished his father, besides his talent for drawing, of which I possess a specimen showing some EARLY LIFE. 29 skill. It is a miniature in Indian-ink of James Earl of Seafield, one of the forfeited lords, to whom he was distantly related. The family were also said to be descended from John Knox. The historian pro- fessed himself quite unacquainted with the reasons of this rumour which connected him with "the rustic apostle," whose character and conduct he has de- scribed so faithfully and strikingly. By the kindness of a kinsman I have had the great satisfaction of receiving a copy of the only sermon which he ever published, as well as of two or three hymns, translations and paraphrases from the Greek of the New Testament. The sermon is able, judicious, correctly composed both for accuracy of diction and severity of taste, and contains passages of great beauty and effect. It resembles what in England would be called an Ordination Sermon or Charge, having been delivered at the opening of the Metro- politan Synod in May 1737, and is a full description of the duties of ministers, the title of it being that "they should please God rather than men." His poetry is elegant and classical : one of his pieces is a beautiful paraphrase of the 14th chapter of St John to the tenth verse : — 1 " Let not your hearts with anxious thoughts Be troubled or dismayed; But trust in Providence divine, And trust my gracious aid. 2 I to my Father's house return; There numerous mansions stand, And glory manifold abounds Through all the happy land. 30 EARLY LIFE. 3 I go your entrance to secure, And your abode prepare; Eegions unknown are safe to you, When I, your Friend, am there. 4 Thence shall I come, when ages close, To take you home with me; There we shall meet to part no more, And still together be. 5 I am the Way, the Truth, the Life: No son of human race, But such as I conduct and guide, Shall see my Father's face." When I went to Glasgow in 1860 to preside at the Social Science Congress, and when, as usual on these occasions, I attended divine service in the Cathedral Church, I recollect being much struck with the accident of this hymn being sung, when, very certainly, I alone of all the congregation knew who was the author, for the hymn-book gives it without any name.* Both sermon and poetry plainly show good taste, as well as strong but sober reason, came to the great historian by descent as well as by study ; but that his father held opinions more strict on some subjects than the relaxed rigour of Presbyterian rule prescribed, half a century later, is proved by his requiring his son's promise never to enter a playhouse. This was stated by him in reference to hii-i father when de- bating the question of John Home's having written the play of ' Douglas/ It is needless to add that, however much he differed with his father on this * See Appendix V. EARLY LIFE. 31 subject, he strictly adhered through life to the pro- mise thus given ; insomuch that when Garrick and Henderson at different times visited him, they enter- tained and interested him by exhibiting to him in private, specimens of the art in which both so emi- nently excelled."* The traditional character in his family of the venerable person whom I have men- tioned was anything rather than sour or stern, how severe and unbending soever may have been his moral feelings. For the sweetness of his placid temper, and the cheerfulness of his kindly disposi- tion, I have heard him spoken of in terms of the warmest enthusiasm by such of his children as were old enough at the time of his decease to recollect him distinctly. The idea of again meeting him in another state was ever present to my grandmother's mind (who was his eldest daughter), and especially when stricken with any illness. It was with her a common source of argument for a future state — as proved by the light of nature, and in her pious mind a confirmation of the truth of Christianity — that, be- lieving in the divine goodness, she could not conceive the extinction of so much angelical purity as adorned her parent, and so fine an understanding as he pos- sessed. Their mother was a woman of great ability and force of character ; but, like many of that caste, women especially, she was more stern and more severe than amiable, and this contrast, unfavourable to the one, redounded to the augmented love of the other. It cannot be doubted that the son's character * See Appendix VI. 32 EARLY LIFE. derived a strong tincture from both parents ; but while he, like his father, was mild and gentle in his temper and of an engaging demeanour, his firmness and deci- sion— nay, his inclination towards the Stoical system of morals, and even to a certain degree of stoical feel- ing, too — was derived from his mother. The death of these two excellent persons was sin- gularly melancholy, and served to impress on the minds of their family a mournful recollection of their virtues. Mr Eobertson had been removed to the Old Greyfriars' Church of Edinburgh in 1773; and ten years afterwards, both he and his wife, seized with putrid fever, died within a few days of each other, leaving eight children — six daughters and two sons — of whom "William was the elder. William had been educated first at the school of Dalkeith, under a very able teacher of the name of Leslie, a gentleman at that time of the greatest eminence in his profession. On his father's removal to Edinburgh, he was taken thither and placed at the University, though only twelve years old. The age of twelve was only a year or two less than usual at the Scotch universities. My contem- poraries and myself were barely fourteen when we entered, attending the mathematical as well as the Latin and Greek classes, and next year that of natural philosophy. His diligence in study was unremitting, and he pursued his education at the different classes for eight years with indefatigable zeal. He had laid EARLY LIFE. 33 down for himself a strict plan of reading; and of the notes which he took there remain a number of books, beginning when he was only fourteen, all bearing the sentence as a motto, which so char- acterised his love of learning, indicating that he delighted in it abstractedly, and for its own sake, without regarding the uses to which it might be turned — " Vita sine litteris, mors." When the London University (now called Univer- sity College) was founded in 1825, I had a good deal of correspondence with Lord Eobertson, who strongly recommended taking as our motto this inscription in his father's note-books. I give what is above stated as his gloss upon the motto or text advisedly. His whole life was spent in study. I well remem- ber his constant habit of quitting the drawing-room, both after dinner and again after tea, and remaining shut up in his library. The period of time when I saw this was after the 'History of America' had been published, and before Major Bennett's map and memoir appeared, which, he tells us, first suggested the ' Disquisition on Ancient India/ Consequently, for above ten years he was in the course of constant study, engaged in extending his information, examin- ing and revolving the facts of history, contemplating ethical and theological truths, amusing his fancy with the strains of Greek and Eoman poetry, or warming it at the fire of ancient eloquence so congenial to his mind, at once argumentative and rhetorical ; and all this study produced not one written line, though thus VOL i, c 34 EARLY LIFE. unremittedly carried on. The same may be said of the ten years he passed in constant study from 1743, the beginning of his residence in a small parish, of very little clerical duty, to 1752, when we know from his letter to Lord Hailes he began his first work. But, indeed, the composition of his three great works, spread over a period of nearly thirty years, clearly evinces that during this long time his studies must have been much more subservient to his own gratifi- cation than to the preparation of his writings, which never could have required one-half that number of years for their completion. In 1741, according to the constitution of the Scotch Church, he was licensed by the Presbytery of Edin- burgh to preach, orders being only conferred upon a presentation to a living or kirk. Two years after, he was appointed minister of Gladsmuir, a country parish in East Lothian ; and this event happened fortunately on the eve of the irreparable loss sustained by the family in the death of both their parents, which left his brother and his sisters wholly without provision. He immediately took the care of them upon him- self, and would form no connection by marriage until he had seen them placed in situations of indepen- dence. He thus remained single for eight years, during which his eldest and favourite sister super- intended his household. In her sound judgment he always had the greatest confidence ; for he knew that to great beauty she added a calm and a firm temper, inherited from their mother, but with greater meek- EARLY LIFE. 35 ness of disposition. An instance of her fortitude and presence of mind was sometimes mentioned by him, though never alluded to by her : a swarm of bees having settled on her head and shoulders while sitting in the garden, she remained motionless until they took wing, thus saving her life, which was in imminent jeopardy. She was married in 1750; and, the year after, he married his cousin Miss Nesbitt. She, after a long attachment, married Mr Syme, minister of Alloa, where her daughter was born. He was a sound divine and a learned man, much esteemed by the Principal, with whom he coincided on the great question of lay patronage which then agitated the Church, as it has in our day, having caused the great schism dividing the Establisment into two. He had under his care as pupils the sons of Mr Abercromby, the chief person in the neighbourhood, Sir Ealph and his brother Sir Robert. If such as has been described was the Principal's estimate of his sister, it is needless to say that her affection for him, and the veneration in which she held him all her life, and his memory when gone, knew no bounds. I recollect while very young, when he came to Brougham, being much struck with her manner of addressing him. It was always " Sir," not brother ; and he called her " Mally " (Molly) ; but this, I afterwards observed, did not betoken any distance, or want of perfect and cordial familiarity. His other sisters addressed him in the same manner, but in this case there was not by any means the same familiarity. 36 EARLY LIFE. She was indeed, as her brother always said, a very- remarkable person, and this was apparent from his regard for her opinion and advice, as well as from the discussions on various subjects which I have heard between them. I well remember her great admira- tion of Lord Chatham, and that she did not quite agree with him in his estimate of the son, who stood a good deal higher in his opinion than in hers, not because of his being at all a Pittite, but probably from his friendship with the Dundases (the two Pre- sidents), father and son."5' He was, as he told Wal- pole many years before Chatham's death, a moderate Whig, a Whig of 1688; to which Walpole says he made an answer, that no one ever believed he ven- tured, with such a person. His sister was avowedly a Whig in the mere party sense of the term. But as an orator, Chatham was the model she used to place before my eyes ; and her dreams were, when she heard of my attempts, that her preaching had not been in vain. It was a subject on which she often came with her daughter (my mother), of whom she had a very high and most just opinion, as had the Principal. But I greatly doubt if she herself, had she survived to 1830, would have exercised the self- control and self-denial which the daughter showed, in opposing, by her remonstrances and earnest advice, my being Chancellor. * 1. Robert Dundas of Arniston, born 1685, Lord President of the Court of Session 1748, died 1753; 2. Robert, his son, bora 1713, Lord President 1760, died 1767.— Brunton and Haig's History of the Sena- tors of the College of Justice, 507, 523, EARLY LIFE. 37 Some of my grandmother's nearest relatives were persons of eminence, to which they had raised them- selves; and both from this and from her brother's great position, gained, like theirs, by his own exer- tions, she constantly impressed on my mind the duty of following such examples; but always required that distinction should be sought by just means : and above all, she used to inculcate the duty of benevo- lence, and to dwell upon its reward in the pleasure beneficence produced. An ardent love of liberty and hatred of oppression seemed part of her nature. A horror of war and delight in peace could with diffi- culty be overcome by any circumstances that could be urged to create an exception. The words " Peace is my dearest delight " were ever in her mouth. She felt an affection for the Quakers on this account; and when any one had anything to say against them, her answer always was, " Well, but it is the only sect that never persecute ; " and on the Independents being cited against her, she would say, " But Oliver Cromwell was an Independent, not a Quaker, and if he did not resist toleration, he made war/' If it was hard to find an exception to peace and tolerance, no exception would she ever suffer to the necessity of strict economy, public and private. The necessity of economy must only yield to claims of humanity, irresistible in their nature and wholly undisputed. For next to a sense of strict justice, humanity was a constant topic. Many an argument have I heard between her 38 EARLY LIFE. brother and her on some capital conviction, when she leant towards mercy, and against that kind of punishment. Her view was perfectly sound, that the smallest punishment which was sufficient to pre- vent a repetition of the offence, was all we had a right to inflict, and that punishing with death tended to counteract one of the objects of all punishment, by turning the feelings in the party's favour through the aversion felt to the punishment. The Principal would say that her reasoning was owing to her feel- ings of misplaced pity for the offender. And this was the case latterly, when her mind had no longer its original strength, and the discussion was renewed with her daughter and the rest of us. We then saw that she was arguing from her feelings. But in former times these were the impressions on all sub- jects she has left, and they were inherited by her daughter. It used to be a joke amongst us that she had not inherited her mother's beauty ; and we after- wards found that the extraordinary likeness to Dante of her profile and her bust, so much admired by Chantrey, made some amends for the defect. Of the relations who have been alluded to, the Adams and the Clerks were the most remarkable, as they were all first-cousins of the Principal and his sister. The Adams were famous as architects, break- ing through the old and plain, but bad style, and introducing, witli some variations, the Greek and Italian. They were patronised by Lord Bute and Lord Mansfield, and by most of the English nobles EARLY LIFE. 39 who had buildings to erect on their estates. In and near London those most remarkable are Caen Wood, the villa of Lord Mansfield, and Lansdowne House, formerly Bute House.""" They took part in Parliament with the Whigs, which lost them the King's (George III.) office of architect. They represented the county of Kinross, as did a younger member of the family, who afterwards was Chief Judge of the Jury Court in Scotland. Of the Clerks, the father of Lord Eld in. (Scotch judge) married an Adam ; he was author of the system of naval tactics adopted with such signal success in the navy. Sir Howard Douglas has denied this as regards Eodney's battle in 1782 — his father, Sir C. Douglas, having been captain of the fleet. But the fact is undeniable that Clerk had brought his plan to maturity, and communicated the parti- culars to several persons, long before Eodney's action, and while Eodney was abroad ; he having gone to the West Indies in January 1780, and Clerk, as he states in the preface to his book, having gone to London in 1779, when he met by appointment Mr E. Atkinson, Admiral Eodney's particular friend, and Sir Charles Douglas, his captain, to whom he detailed and explained every part of his system, for the ex- press purpose of having it communicated to the Admiral before his departure with the fleet. Mr * Of the two brother architects, Robert and James, a good account is given in the fragment of a general biographical dictionary by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. The well-known fagade of the Adelphi, off the Strand, has its name to commemorate the joint work of the brethren. 40 EARLY LIFE. Clerk adds that such communication was made ; that the Admiral expressed, before he left London, his en- tire approbation of the scheme ; and after his return openly acknowledged that it was Mr Clerk who had suggested the manoeuvres by which the victory of the 12th of April 1782 had been obtained. Clerk's system was followed by Howe, St Vincent, Duncan, and Nelson, and with well-known success. The manoeuvre is, in fact, the same that Napoleon practised on shore — the placing an adversary between the fire of two bodies. What makes Clerk's merit the more remarkable is, that he was not a professional man, and had never even gone a voyage to sea.* John Clerk's intimacy was very close with the Principal and his sister, who both had great confi- dence in his practical sense upon most subjects, when not perverted by certain odd prejudices and fancies. For instance, she being, like him, a warm advocate of exercise as a means above everything for promoting health, used to quote him as saying, when asked, " What were you to do in bad weather ? " " Why, run up and down stairs ; there is no better exercise, or better fitted to bring all the muscles into play." Once during the Reign of Terror, a fast-day sermon was preached, which we attended with him ; and after morning service, when we were complaining of the preacher as having exaggerated by charging the Jacobins with sacrificing the priests at the foot of the altar, — " Foot of the altar ! " said John, "that is only * See Appendix VII. EARLY LIFE. 4! a way of speaking ; but it lets the wretches off too easily. They never let them get to the foot of the altar, but murdered them in the streets or the prisons/' Dr Adam was a teacher of the greatest merit, and a man distinguished by qualities very rarely found in combination with his literary eminence. The hard- ships which he endured from poverty in his early life have seldom been equalled, never exceeded. When he was endeavouring to educate himself, he for some years suffered from actual hunger, his only means of subsistence being the small sum of three guineas a- quarter received from teaching, and out of which he had to pay fourpence a-week for a miserable lodging, two miles out of the town, and his daily food was oatmeal-porridge and penny rolls. He dispensed with fire and candles : the former, by severe exercise when the weather permitted — when it was bad, by climbing one of the highest staircases in which Edin- burgh abounds ; the latter, by reading at the room of some fellow-student. His temper was never soured nor his spirits distressed ; the zeal of studying and success in it, sustaining him, and even making him feel happy. These particulars have been related by his pupils, among others the first Lord Meadowbank, but were very rarely even alluded to by himself, and only in general terms when illustrating in his class the value of industrious habits, and the comforts they bring under the most adverse circumstances. For it was one of the greatest merits of his teaching that he constantly lectured his pupils on moral and religious 42 EARLY LIFE. subjects, on their duties to heaven and to their fellow- creatures, beside dwelling on the illustration of his remarks derived from their learning, classical, histo- rical, and geographical. It is difficult to conceive a more useful discipline in all respects than his class afforded. But in no particular was his instruction more valuable than in opening the mind to the con- templation of characters, ancient and modern, and drawing from them the conclusions in favour of poli- tical virtue of every kind. He always spoke with great natural eloquence, and made very deep impres- sion by the force and conciseness of his statements, and the rich illustrations from history, the constant reference to individuals, and the appeals to classical authority. It would be difficult to exaggerate the effects of his lectures, for such they were, though often consisting of a few sentences interspersed in the les- sons as they went on. Among his favourite topics was inculcating the love of independence, the duty and comfort of making one's own fortune, and relying on one's self alone. Then he would chide a pupil's idleness or inattention ; and if the lad was of the higher orders, — " But you will get a post or a pension when others are working their way uphill." Then the delights of learning in all its branches formed a constant theme, and the mischiefs of all obstructions in the way of its acquirement. " A tax upon paper is a tax upon knowledge," was a frequent expression. He was always extolling the ancient writers : it was his business. He would point out their beauties, and EARLY LIFE. 43 especially those less obvious, and would say, — " It is too late to doubt of them ; whoever should do so would find he had come too late ; for all men's minds have long ago been made up on the subject." But he ever dwelt on their works having been the result of the greatest care, and of each being a monument of industry; describing Sallust, for instance, as passing his whole time in composition and careful correction. The eloquence of the old orators he would descant on by the hour, and show that its success was due to dil- igent preparation. With some exceptions he much undervalued the modern : of these exceptions Chat- ham was the chief, and he highly commended his method of bringing up his son, notwithstanding he had kept him from a public school. Of that son's eloquence he had formed an estimate strongly affected by his political opinions, which were those of the ad- mirers of the French Eevolution ; and although he avoided the expression of them, it was pretty manifest how he leant, even after its crimes had begun to stag- ger most of its partisans. I found when I had left his class that he was of those who very reluctantly admitted any faults in the Eepublicans. Whatever opinions he held on this subject, he always inculcated the most decided attachment to our own constitution. His taste in all matters of composition was sound and severe. If he admired Seneca more than was strictly just, he gave no preference to him over the purer models; and his liking plainly proceeded from the great storehouse found in his prose writings of moral 44 EARLY LIFE. truths, those which he warmly inculcated. It must, however, be observed, that there are in many parts of Seneca's philosophical writings passages of great elo- quence, in none more than the treatise on Providence, in that on the great question of the origin of evil, and that on the shortness of life. The steady honesty of Dr Adam, his devotion to his principles, his unwearied zeal and heartfelt enthusiasm in impressing them on his pupils, can never be forgotten by those who had the inestimable benefit of his teaching, and of learning, beside that which was the first and main object of his instruction, those other things with which it was connected, and on which no other teacher ever thought of dwelling. I consider myself indebted to him for whatever success has attended my life, whether speculative or practical; and a few of our fellow-pupils were so sensible of the great value of his general comments, and remarks on men and manners, that we made it a common practice to take notes of his observations, and to interchange, and correct, or extend them. Moreover, he inculcated not only the expediency of written translations beyond those which were given in as our exercises, but of practising composition and speaking. Two or three of us used to meet of an evening and hold a debate on some subject which he had handled in his class ; and having been taken by my tutor to hear a debate in a meeting composed chiefly of students in the University, but open to all who chose to subscribe, I tried my hand at compos- EARLY LIFE. 45 ing an essay on the subject I had heard debated, " Whether prosperity or adversity was most favour- able to virtue." On showing it to my father, I found a very severe judge, who thought the declamatory speeches I had heard misled me, and set me on other subjects that required argumentation and (being an old Etonian) classical allusions, and even quotations. The Doctor was more lenient, and gave me encourage- ment ; but I found by his questions that he substan- tially agreed with the judgment of the domestic forum. This excellent man had been a good deal thwarted by the authorities, provoked to personal altercation with unworthy antagonists, and assailed by a corrupt por- tion of the press. As to the authorities, his first work was a most excellent book on the principles of Latin and English grammar, designed to promote his great object of making classical studies a help to other studies, and not a hindrance — and- he wished to introduce it in the school ; but he found all the other masters, who had been accustomed to teach Ruddi- man's Grammar, opposed to the substitution of his ; and also the magistrates, patrons of the school, for the same reason, resolved to abide by Ruddiman's. After a severe contest, both in the courts of law and the town council, the latter issued a positive prohibition to the school to make use of Adam's Grammar, and he could therefore only indirectly urge his doctrines. I grieve to add that at one time the Principal (Robert- son) took part against him, who on all other occasions stood his warm friend, and obtained for him from the 46 EARLY LIFE. University, his degree. But the question of extra- mural teaching, in after-times so much discussed, had arisen upon the introduction of Greek in the school by Adam as early as 1782 ; and the professors endea- voured, but without success, to prevent this. The Principal, who must have strongly disapproved of their opposition, yet yielded to it, probably on the ground of the professor of Greek depending entirely on the number of his pupils, from having no salary ; and on the assumption that, with the frugal habits of the Scotch, few or none would send their sons to attend the Greek professor, if they had learnt a little Greek the year before at the High School. The trouble which the Doctor had with some of the masters under him, arose from the improvements in teaching which he endeavoured to introduce, at first with great resistance and only partial success — in the end, with their perfect assent. During the for- mer period his chief opponent was Nicol, whose vio- lence led to a personal quarrel, which had nearly ended in a duel. The man did not want talent or learning, but was of most intemperate habits and dis- solute life. He was the intimate friend and pot-com- panion of Burns, some of whose best known and most popular bacchanalian songs bear traces of this inti- macy. Of these the one most in favour with the Scotch begins with — " Willie brewed a peck of maut (malt), And Eab and Allan came to pree." The Willie is Nicol ; the poet is Kab ; and Allan was EARLY LIFE. 4? one of the Mastertons, at whose school I learnt writ- ing and arithmetic. Nicol's habits were well known to the boys, as were those of the other masters. They had an uncouth rhyme characterising their masters. In this, Luke is the teacher — Luke Fraser, under whom I was before rising to the rector's class ; Frango was French, a most respectable and learned man ; and Cruikshanks (a very able and successful teacher, as well as worthy man, under whom Horner and Murray were, until the former went to the rector's class and the latter to Westminster) is represented by Crukem- shango : — " Sandy Adam loves his book, And so do Luke and Frango ; Willie Nicol loves his bottle, And so does Crukemshango." I am pretty confident that the last line is owing to the rhyme and the contrast, and not to the fact. The attacks of the masters and their friends never gave Adam any uneasiness that had not long ceased when I was under him, and he never at any time made the least allusion to them in his class. The treatment of the press he had a good right to despise, when it came from the same disreputable quarter in which the Prin- cipal was assailed. The history of Gilbert Stuart affords a remarkable and an edifying instance, per- haps a singular one, of great talents and considerable powers of work, though irregular, failing to obtain success, or to keep alive the memory of works dis- tinguished by both learning and ability, owing to the 48 EARLY LIFE. malignant feeling under which they were composed, and their being devoted to its gratification. That these intemperate habits and irregular life would not have produced this effect, there are unhappily too many proofs in the history of authors. An able and learned work on the ' History of the British Constitu- tion/ made the University of Edinburgh give him the degree of Doctor of Laws when little more than one- and-twenty ; and he soon after published his ' Views of Society in Europe/ being an historical inquiry con- cerning laws, manners, and government. Immediately after this he was a candidate for the Professorship of Public Law, in the University, and he fancied that he owed his rejection to the influence of the Principal. Nothing could be more fitting than that such should be the case ; for the life of Stuart was known to be that of habitual dissipation, in the intervals only of which he had paroxysms of study. To exclude such a per- son from the professor's chair would have been a duty incumbent on the head of any university in Christen- dom, whatever, in other respects, might be his merits. But no admission was ever made by the Principal's friends that he had interfered, or, indeed, that the opinions and inclinations of the magistrates, who are the patrons, rendered any such interference necessary. But the disappointed candidate had no doubt upon the subject, and he set no bounds to his thirst of revenge. He repaired to London, where he became a writer in reviews, and made all the literary men of Edinburgh the subjects of his envious and malignant EARLY LIFE. 49 attacks, from 1768 to 1773; the editors of such jour- nals, as is too usual with persons in their really re- sponsible situation, but who think they can throw the responsibility upon their unknown contributors, never inquiring whether the criticisms which they published proceeded from the honest judgment or the personal spite of the writers. It is the imperative duty of every one who conducts the periodical press, to use his utmost diligence in preventing concealed enemies or rivals from using his paper as the vehicle of their attacks. He should lay down the rule never again to receive any contribution from a person who had deceived him by suppressing the fact that he had a grudge or an interest against the object of his former attack. Stuart returned to Edinburgh, and set up a maga- zine and review, of which the scurrility, dictated by private resentments, was so unremitting, that it brought the work to a close in less than three years, when he went back to London, and recommenced his anony- mous vituperation of Scottish authors through the periodical press. He also published in 1779, 1780, and 1782, three works: one on the ' Constitutional History of Scotland/ being an attack on Dr Eobert- son's first book ; another on the ' History of the Keformation in Scotland/ and the third on the * His- tory of Queen Mary ' — being also an elaborate attack upon the Principal. The ability and the learning of these works, and their lively and even engaging style, have not saved them from the oblivion to which they VOL. i. D 50 EARLY LIFE. were justly consigned by the manifest indications prevailing throughout them all of splenetic temper, of personal malignity, and of a constant disturbance of the judgment by these vile unworthy passions. The same hostility towards the person of the Princi- pal even involved this reckless man in a quarrel with his eldest son : it led to a duel, in which neither party was hurt — an accommodation having taken place on the field. I have heard Stuart's second say that he was obliged, knowing his friend's intemperate habits, to oppose the proposal — which he made with his usual want of conduct, and, indeed, of right feeling — that all the parties should dine together on quitting the field ! That second (Mr James Gray), an able and an honourable man, always admitted Stuart's unjustifiable conduct towards the historian, one of whose nieces he (the second) afterwards married. Stuart's dissipation continued unbroken, excepting by his occasional literary work ; and he died of a dropsy in 1786, at the early age of forty. Such was the man and such his fate who assailed Dr Adam with a bitterness and pertinacity as signal as he had shown towards the great historian. His admirable Grammar was received universally by the literary and didactive world (by the scholar as well as the teacher) with the approbation which it so well deserved ; but it had one fault — it was on a subject on which Stuart's cousin, Euddiman, had published a book. This was enough to enlist Stuart's ferocity against both the work and the writer. He EARLY LIFE. 51 published anonymous reviews without end, and he also published, under the name of t( Busby," a bitter attack upon the personal peculiarities of Dr Adam. Every one felt unmitigated disgust at such base and unprincipled proceedings, and the Rector, like the Principal, gave the unworthy author the mortification of leaving his assaults unanswered; nor did he even make any allusions to these attacks, though he occasionally expressed his regret at the prohibition of his Grammar by the authority of the town council. The moral inculcated by Gilbert Stuart's failure has been noted. The lesson of temperance and regu- larity of life is as remarkably taught by the Doctor's personal conflict with one of the masters, Nicol, already referred to as the boon companion of the great lyric poet of Scotland. The temperate habits of our times make it hardly possible that a poet should now- adays attain eminence by bacchanalian songs, and even that ideas should be introduced that owe their point and force to drinking associations, as in the most pathetic of lyrics, " Auld lang syne." Even of professed drinking-songs there is this to be said, that they rarely tend to promote intemperance, and are for the most part only displays of wit and humour. They are chiefly perhaps to be excused, if not de- fended, in the same way that Voltaire pleaded in extenuation, if not justification, of his " Pucelle," that the most reprehensible passages, how offensive soever to decency and morals, had no tendency to inflame 52 EARLY LIFE. the passions, and were not prurient but witty, though indecent ; a defence which no one of correct taste or sound morals can ever regard as more than an assertion that the matter complained of, though bad, might have been worse ! I don't recollect the Doctor ever distinctly casting my horoscope, as he did that of some others ; but the following letter from a daughter, who still lives, of one of the professors, mentions an odd guess of my own, like that of Erskine's mother, which he used to cite as an evidence of providential inspiration — for he never doubted that Providence acted by secondary causes. The account given in the following letter of the reprimand is in one particular inaccurate. It was not for an essay, but for a message sent by the minority on a division in the Speculative Society, composed of Jeffrey, Horner, Kinnaird, and myself, and of which Jeffrey was the bearer to Professor Hume, whose class we were attending. The message was of an offensive, perhaps hostile description, com- plaining of his having said publicly, " Those young men, like their masters the French, are evidently skilled in political arts." Jeffrey, as instructed by us, asked if he had used these expressions ; and said, that if he had we felt bound to declare they con- tained a falsehood. We were all summoned. Jeffrey was out of town, Horner was ill, as well as Kinnaird, and I alone could attend. The reprimand was per- fectly justified by our proceeding, and was most EARLY LIFE. 53 gently administered. The following is an extract from the lady's letter: — " I am sorry I myself was so young during Lord Brougham's college life as to have paid much too little attention to all that I might have heard. To me he was always most excessively kind, but it was the kindness of a young man to one who was com- paratively a child. But I do remember one thing which made an impression on me : I heard that he and Homer and Lord Kinnaird had been engaged in the Speculative Society in defending an essay on some political subject, which essay (and its defenders) was on much too liberal principles for the tastes of the rulers of the day; and, in short, the three young men were sentenced (by the Senatus Academicus, I think it was) to submit to be reprimanded by the Principal of the College for disseminating French principles and sedition. Of all of the three none were forthcoming but Brougham : Homer was ill or something, and Lord Kinnaird was absent, and Lord Brougham alone came before Principal Baird to receive his lecture. I believe the good Principal's admonition was a lenient one, for he was a kind, good-hearted man, who did not in his conscience think the worse of the young gentlemen for their essay; and so Lord Brougham listened respectfully and made his bow, and all was over. This was an event that showed the spirit of the times ; for the essay, I believe, contained nothing but what has become since the prevailing opinion and the law of 54 EARLY LIFE. the land. This is the story as nearly as I can re- member it; but if there is anything materially incor- rect in it, I daresay Lord Brougham could tell you the exact way of it, if he or you think it of any con- sequence. " There is a curious little anecdote which I heard from Mary Eobertson at the time Lord Brougham was made Lord Chancellor. She told me that when she and the Broughams were all children they were invited to a little ball at her uncle Mr Abercromby's. We had a house somewhere about Coltbridge or Cor- storphine (I do not know which), where the ball was to take place ; and all the children, Kobertson's and Brougham's together, were packed into a hackney- coach to go ; but when they came to the toll-bar, not one of the party was found possessed of a sixpence to pay it; on which, after some consultation among them- selves, Henry Brougham jumped up and said to the tollman, ' Oh, you surely will let us pass, for / am the Lord Chancellor/ Mary Eobertson could not tell me whether he had at that time any idea of be- longing to the law, but if it was a mere dash, it was a curious coincidence." If it was not owing to chance that at Edinburgh I received the care and counsels of the great historian, it was not to mere accident that I was indebted for my intimacy with the great advocate and orator, Erskine, and his brother Henry, only inferior to him in fame from his provincial position. The house in which we lived on the north side of St Andrew's .EARLY LIFE. 55 Square was under the same roof, and next door to Lord Buclian, eldest brother of the Erskines, a man of eccentric character and much underrated, but of considerable learning and talents, and so highly esteemed by Lord Chatham that he gave him a diplo- matic appointment, which he was kept from filling by some quarrel about etiquette and rank ; but Chatham continued his correspondent all his life, and I have seen his letters when I used to visit Lord Buchan at Dry burgh. They were on various subjects, public and personal, and I recollect the orthography was very indifferent, as for instance does being generally spelt dos or doz. He was exceedingly kind to us as chil- dren, and I continued his acquaintance afterwards, his phrase being, " Ye're min ain bairns of the hoose," (you are mine own children of the house). This led naturally to a great intimacy with his brother Henry; and when I was called to the bar, I had the benefit of his advice and instruction, as well as of profiting by the example of his advocacy, which had the highest merit, and placed him at the head of the Scotch bar. When I afterwards removed to London, the family friendship was continued by the celebrated brother, with whom my intercourse was constant and familiar. Both these eminent men impressed upon me, as the first of qualities in an advocate, that to which they owed their own great success, the sacrificing every- thing to the cause, and indulging in no one topic, or any illustration, or any comment, or even in a phrase or a word, that did not directly and manifestly serve 56 EARLY LIFE. the cause in some material particular. This rule per- haps applies to all the departments of eloquence; but it is of paramount importance, nay, an absolute obli- gation, and of necessity to be obeyed in the conduct- ing of a cause before any tribunal, even before a popular assembly. Both the Erskines had been edu- cated at the High School, of which the younger all his life cherished an affectionate remembrance. The University he had not attended, having been at St Andrews for a short time before he entered the navy. The care of his education devolved upon his brother (Lord Buchan), who was greatly his senior, and who most liberally, out of his moderate income, supplied all his wants. He died at his brother's seat near Edin- burgh. Both these brothers inculcated their political as well as professional opinions very strongly on me at all times. They were stanch friends of liberty and enemies of oppression, whether exercised over bodies of men or individuals ; and I can bear testi- mony to the warmth of feeling as well as the skill and judgment which Lord Erskine showed at the end of his life in the great case of the Queen. The remark made on Loughborough that his Scotch returned to him in his latter days (the phrase being that his English had run out of him by the effects of age), does not apply to Erskine. The taint of the High School of Edinburgh could not be perceived at any time of his life. OF^HE UNIVERSITY CHAPTER II. (Continued.) I LEAVE THE HIGH SCHOOL — AT BROUGHAM WITH A TUTOR — TALE AFTER THE MANNER OF RASSELAS — I ENTER THE COLLEGE OF EDINBURGH - WITH FOLKESTONE, AFTERWARDS LORD RADNOR - MY EARLY EFFORTS IN MATHEMATICS AND MECHANICS — OPTICS, CHEMISTRY — JOSEPH BLACK, JAMES WATT — MY FIRST SPEECH AT THE ROYAL MEDICAL SOCIETY — I STUDY ORATORY - 1 FOUND THE JUVENILE LITERARY SOCIETY - BECOME A MEMBER OF THE SPECULATIVE SOCIETY - PEDESTRIAN RAM- BLES — APOLLO CLUB, AND HIGH JINKS — FEATS OF EDINBURGH BURSCHEN — HERON'S PLAY DAMNED — i GO ON A YACHTING EXPEDITION AMONG THE WESTERN ISLES - MY FELLOW-TRAVEL- LER CHARLES STUART (STUART DE ROTHSAY) — ISLAY — LIFE AT SEA — ST KILDA — STORNOWAY — CROSS TO ELSINORE. HAVIXG finished with the High School, I passed the next fourteen months, from August 179L to Octo- ber 1792, at Brougham, where Mr Mitchell was -my tutor — a man of excellent temper as well as sound learning, who intended to take orders in the Scotch Church. By his conversation on every subject, it was impossible not to profit; and his moral maxims were as enlightened as his opinions on literary and 58 EARLY LIFE. scientific subjects. The time was principally devoted to Greek and Latin; and I was further instructed in such duties by my father, who retained his love of and familiarity with the classics ; and, encouraged by him, I tried my hand at writing English essays, and even tales of fiction. I find one of these has survived the waste-paper basket, and it may amuse my readers to see the sort of composition I was guilty of at the age of thirteen. My tale was entitled " Memnon, or Human Wis- dom," and is as follows : — "Memnon one day conceived the useless project of being perfectly wise. There is scarcely any man who has not at one time or other let this folly pass through his head. To be very wise (said Memnon to himself), and, of consequence, very happy, one has only to be without passions, and (as we all know) nothing is easier. In the first place, I shall never love any woman ; for when I see a perfect beauty I shall say to myself, ' These cheeks will one day be wrinkled ; these fine eyes will be fringed with red ; that plum (sic) neck will turn flat and flabby ; that beautiful head will grow bald/ Now, I have only to see all this with the same eyes at present that I must see it with afterwards, and surely that head will never turn mine. In the second place, I shall always be sober. In vain shall good cheer, delicious wines, agreeable society, try to tempt me. I have only to figure to myself the consequence of excess — a EARLY LIFE. 59 heavy head — a disordered stomach — loss of reason, health, and time ; and surely I shall never eat but to satisfy nature ; my health shall be constant, my ideas always luminous and pure. All this is so easy that there is no merit in keeping to it. Then (continued Memnon) I must think a little of my fortune. My desires are moderate ; my income is lodged in the hands of the Eeceiver-General of the Finances of Nineveh ; I have wherewithal to live independent ; and that is the greatest of earthly blessings. I shall never have the disagreeable necessity of paying court to anybody. I shall envy no one, and be envied by none. Besides, here is another thing equally plain. I have friends : I shall keep them ; so they can have nothing to dispute with me about : I shall never be out of humour with them, nor they with me. In all this there's no sort of difficulty. Having thus formed in his room his little scheme of wisdom, Memnon put his head out of the window. He saw two women washing near his house, under the plane-trees : one of them was old, and seemed not to be thinking about anything; the other was young, handsome, and appeared much engaged. She sighed ; she wept; and seemed to have only the more graces. Our sage was moved — not with the beauty of the lady (he was quite confident he never could be guilty of such a weakness), but he was touched with the affliction she appeared to be in. He went down -stairs, and ap- proached the young daughter of Nineveh, in the intention of consoling her with wisdom. The fair 60 EARLY LIFE. creature related with an air the most natural and affecting, all the injuries she had received from an uncle whom she never had — with the artifices by which he had taken from her a fortune she never possessed, and all the evils she had to fear from his ill-treatment. ' You appear/ said she, ' to be a man of such good counsel, that if you'll only have the con- descendence to step home with me and examine my affairs, I'm sure youll relieve me from the cruel embarrassments into which I have fallen.' Memnon followed her without hesitation, for the purpose of examining, safely, her affairs, and giving her good advice. The afflicted lady carried him into a per- fumed apartment, and politely bid him be seated upon a large sofa, where they both remained with their legs crossed, and opposite to each other. The damsel, while she spoke, cast her eyes on the ground, and sometimes dropt tears from them ; and whenever she raised them, they always happened to meet those of the sage Memnon. The conversation was full of tenderness, which redoubled every time they looked at one other. Memnon took her affairs extremely to heart, and felt every moment more and more a desire to oblige so worthy and so unfortunate a personage. Insensibly they ceased (in the heat of conversation) to sit opposite to each other — their legs were no longer crossed. Memnon gave his advice so near and so tenderly, that neither one nor t'other could now speak of business, and they no longer knew where they were. Whilst they continued in this EARLY LIFE. 6l situation, in comes the uncle. As may easily be imagined, he was armed cap-a-pie. His first words were that he proposed (as was reasonable) killing Memnon and his niece on the spot ; and the last thing which escaped him was that he would pardon them, if he was well paid for it. Memnon was forced to give all he had about him. These were happy days when one could get off so cheap. America was not then known, and afflicted ladies were not half so dangerous as they are in our times. Memnon went home in shame and despair : he found a card invit- ing him to dine with some of his intimate friends. If (said he) I stay at home by myself, I shall think on nothing but my sad adventure. I shall eat none, and shall fall sick. I had much better go and make a frugal meal with my companions. The sweets of their society will make me forget the morning's folly. He goes to the place appointed ; they perceive him somewhat out of sorts ; they make him drink to drown sorrow. A little wine taken in moderation is a cure both for mind and body, so thinks the sage Memnon; and so thinking, he gets drunk. They propose to play after dinner. A little play, well regulated, with one's friends, makes an honourable pastime. He plays, loses all his ready money, and four times more on tick. During the game a dispute arises ; they turn warm. One of his particular friends throws a decanter at Memnon's head ; and shuts up an eye for him. The sage Memnon is carried home, mortal drunk, with the loss of all his money, and 62 EARLY LIFE. half his eyes. He throws up a little of his wine, and as soon as his head is a little clear, he sends his servant to the Receiver-General for money to pay his particular friends. He is told that his debtor had that morning broke fraudulently, to the alarm of half the families in town. Memnon, quite beside himself, sets off for court, with a patch on his eye, and peti- tion in his hand, to demand justice of the king against the bankrupt. He meets in the drawing-room several ladies, who sported, with an easy air, hoops of twenty- four feet in circumference. One of these, Avho knew him a little, muttered (eyeing him askance), ' How horrid ! ' Another, who was better acquainted with him, accosted him with a ' How do, Mr Memnon ? But, indeed, Mr Memnon, I'm prodigious glad to see you. By the by, Mr Memnon, how do you happen to have lost an eye I ' And so she trifled on, without waiting for an answer. Memnon hid himself in a corner, and waited for the moment when he might throw himself at the monarch's feet. The moment came, and he kissed the ground three times, presenting his petition. His most gracious Majesty of all the Nine- yells received it very favourably, and handed it to one of his satraps to make a report of its substance. The satrap took Memnon aside, and said to him, grinning bitterly, and with a contemptuous air,— ' You're a pleasant sort of a blinkard, truly, to address the king rather than me, and still more pleasant to dare to demand justice against an honest bankrupt whom I honour with my protection, and EARLY LIFE. 63 who, indeed, is the nephew of my kept mistress's waiting- woman ! Leave off this business, friend, I advise you, if you value the health of your remaining eye/ Memnon having thus in the morning abjured women, the excesses of the table, play, quarrels, and, above all, the court, had been, before night, duped and pigeoned by a fine lady, filled drunk, rooked at play, drawn into a quarrel, robbed of an eye ; and had been at court, where he found himself laughed at. Petrified with astonishment, and overpowered with grief, he moves homeward, death- sick at heart. He finds his house surrounded by bailiffs, in the act of gutting it on the part of his creditors. He stops half dead under a plane-tree ; he here meets the fair lady of the morning, walking with her dear uncle. She bursts out a laughing at seeing Memnon with his plaister. The night came on ; Memnon laid him- self down on some straw near the walls of his house. A fever seized him ; he fell asleep in the crisis of the disorder, and a celestial spirit appeared to him in a dream. It was clothed in resplendent light ; it had six fine wings — but neither feet, nor head, nor tail, nor resemblance to anything earthly. ' What art thou ? ' said Memnon. ' Thy good genius/ replied the being. ' Eestore me, then/ said Memnon, ' my eye, my health, my money, my wisdom/ He then related how he had, in one day's time, lost all these. 'These are adventures for you/ said the spirit, 'which we never meet with in our world/ ' And where may your world be 1 ' said the man of woe. ' My country/ 64 EARLY LIFE. said the spirit, 'is five hundred millions of leagues from the sun, in a little star near Sirius ; as you see here.' ' Dear, what a nice country!' said Memnon : 1 so you have no sluts who dupe a poor man ; no particular friends who win his money and knock out his eye; no bankrupts; no satraps who laugh at you because they refuse you justice.' ' No/ said the native of the star, 'none of these things at all. We are never cozened by women, for we have no women. We never commit excess at table, for we never feed. We have no bankrupts, for with us there is neither silver nor gold. We can't have our eyes closed up, because we have not bodies made like yours ; and satraps never do us injustice, because in our little star all the world is on a foot- ing/ Memnon then addressed him : ' My good mas- ter, wifeless and dinnerless \ how do you contrive to pass your time V 'In watching over the other world intrusted to our care/ said he, ' and I am come here just now to console thee.' ' Alackaday ! ' re- plied Memnon, ' why didn't you come last night to prevent me from committing so many follies V 'I was with thy eldest brother Haspar/ said the celestial being. ' He is more to be pitied than thou. His gracious Majesty the King of the Indians, at whose court he has the honour of belonging, hath caused put out both his eyes for some petty indiscretion ; and he is at this moment in a dungeon with his hands and feet in irons/ ' It's very hard/ said Memnon, 'when one has a good genius in the family, that one EARLY LIFE. 65 brother should be blind in one eye, the other in both —one lying on straw, the other in prison/ ' Thy lot shall change/ replied the animal of the star. * It is true thou shalt always be half blind ; but then, this excepted, thou shalt be happy enough, provided always thou shalt not form the foolish project of being perfectly wise/ 'That, then, is out of the question 1 ' said Memnon, with a sigh. ' As impos- sible/ said the other, ' as to think of being perfectly clever, strong, powerful, or happy. Even we our- selves are far from it. There is, indeed, one globe where all that may be had ; but in the hundred thousand millions of others which are sprinkled over space, everything is got by degrees. One feels less pleasanter in the second than in the first; still less in the third than the second ; and so on, down to the last, where every mother's son is an absolute fool/ ' I greatly fear/ said Memnon, ' that our little terra- queous globe is precisely the little habitation of the universe about which you are doing me the honour to speak/ ' Not altogether/ said the spirit, ' but nearly so ; everything must have its place.' ( But stay/ said Memnon ; ' some poets and philosophers, then, are in the wrong to say that everything is for the best ? ' 'They are quite right/ said the philosopher of the upper regions, ' if we consider the arrangement of the whole universe/ ' Ah ! ' replied poor Memnon, ' I shall never be able to see that, till I've got back my other eye/ ' "We returned to Edinburgh for the college session VOL. i, E 66 EARLY LIFE. in October; and I recollect, after passing through Carlisle, breakfasting at Netherby, where we saw Sir James Graham, then a child, in his nurse's arms. The Bishop of Carlisle (Vernon, afterwards Archbishop of York) and I have often talked of the change which forty or fifty years had made on that infant. Under Playfair I then began the course of mathe- matics. Nothing could be more admirable than his teaching. He was at all times accessible to his pupils for explaining things left short in the class, and re- moving doubts or difficulties that occurred in their reading at home. In this respect he was superior to the other great teacher of that time, Dugald Stewart, under whom we all derived the most solid instruction that lectures could afford, in the most attractive form of eloquence ; but probably partly from the exhaustion of his delivery, and partly from aversion to disputa- tion, which such conferences were apt to occasion, he very often declined to see his pupils after the class rose. Playfair's winter course was six months, and the summer three, at the second of which I attended with Lord Folkestone (now Eadnor), whose intimacy, both personal and political, I have since constantly enjoyed, and a better man I have never known, to say nothing of his great abilities. Those who had the advantage of hearing him in the discussions in the House of Lords upon the distress of the country at the end of 1830, and on the Eeform Bill the year after, when he delivered a speech of the most finished EARLY LIFE. 6/ excellence, may remember my reference to a still nobler oration in the Duke of York's case in 1809, which no less accomplished judges than Windham, Canning, and Dudley, each severally assured me was one of the most powerful that they ever heard. One great merit of Kadnor's eloquence was its being so plainly produced by strong and honest feelings. It proceeded manifestly from the speaker's heart, and it went direct to the hearts of his hearers.* In 1794, on an exercise which I gave in, the Pro- fessor (Playfair) desired me to wait till the class rose, and then he said that I had hit upon the Binomial Theorem, asking me by what steps I had been led to it ? I of course answered, as was the fact, that it had been by induction. But he said, " This piece of good fortune ought to make you fonder of the mathematics than ever ; " and as I wished to master the Fluxional Calculus, which he had done no more than explain the nature of, in that course, I desired to know what he would recommend me to read with that view. He said there were two works, either of which deserved to be studied, La Caille and Bezout, but he preferred the latter, t I set to work with that, and in a few months showed him that I had profited by the study. My intimacy with Playfair continued all his life. I * See Appendix VIII. f Nicolas Louis De Lacaille, who died in 1762, author of a host of books on astronomy, mensuration, and the higher mathematics. Etienne Bezout, author of ' LaTheoriegenerale des equations algebriques,' and of several other books chiefly directed towards the mathematical training of the several branches of the French military and naval force. 68 EARLY LIFE. used to correspond with him on mathematical sub- jects, and I remember his letters in answer to mine from the north, observing that " I was as usual on our common subject, when in my aphelion." I re- collect when we were volunteers together in an artillery- corps. He was particularly diligent in super- intending our ball-practice, and on the first occasion of it, received great delight from the accidental suc- cess of his old pupil in levelling the gun, which shot through the centre of the target. " You see," he said, to those about him, " how we mathematicians carry the day." He would not allow it to be, as I admitted, a mere chance, and did not approve of my modesty being displayed to the detriment of science. The last time we met was in 1816 at Eome, where we passed part of the winter, the famous year when all the heads of London society were there — Jerseys, Hamil- tons, Devonshires, Cowpers, Barings, Kings, Vernons, Westmorlands. In 1794-5 I was led away for a few weeks from the calculus by the interest I took in a problem pro- posed by the Academy of Sciences at Berlin for a prize — the deflection of a projectile from the vertical plane; and a solution having occurred to me, or a supposed solution, I drew up a paper (or memoir) and sent it. I never received the acknowledgment of it, and very properly ; for I am certain, from what I recollect of it, that the demonstration was wrong, at least was inadequate, though I believe the theory was correct, which ascribed the deflection to the EARLY LIFE. 69 rotatory motion of the projectile, and its condensing the air. But I recollect an experiment which, accompanied by my brother James and Eeddie, I tried, in order to ascertain the effects of the rotation. It was to fire a bullet from a fowling-piece placed horizontally, through a series of screens placed vertically. It was found that the bullet first deviated to the left, and then, on piercing the first screen, swerved to the right, and so at each screen changed its direction — indicat- ing, as we supposed, that the direction of rotation was changed by the screens. I, however, soon returned to pure mathematics, and several of the propositions afterwards mentioned in my paper on Porisms, were investigated at this time. I was also diligently employed in experiments upon light and colours, and conceived that I had made some additions to the Newtonian doctrine, which I sent to the Eoyal Society in the summer of 1 795. The paper was very courteously received ; but Sir Charles Blagden (the Secretary) desired parts to be left out in the notes or queries as belonging rather to the arts than the sciences. This was very un- fortunate ; because, I having observed the effect of a small hole in the window-shutter of a darkened room, when a view is formed on white paper of the external objects, I had suggested that if that view is formed, not on paper, but on ivory rubbed with nitrate of silver, the picture would become permanent; and I had suggested improvements in drawing, founded 70 EARLY LIFE. upon this fact. Now this is the origin of photography; and had the note containing the suggestion in 1795 appeared, in all probability it would have set others on the examination of the subject, and given us photo- graphy half a century earlier than we have had it. The experiments and propositions as printed in the Philosophical Transactions I have since considered as proceeding in great part from confounding colours made \>y flexion with those formed by reflection; for I am convinced that all the phenomena in my experi- ments may be explained without having recourse to the supposition of different reflexibility, by consider- ing the colours as formed by flexion and then reflected. But there is a different reflexibility. The Newtonian is another kind, not of the white rays being separated into their component parts by one reflection, but of the rays being reflected instead of refracted or transmitted ; and I showed that this is owing, not to the different rays having different capacities of reflection, but to their having, in the first instance, been separated by refraction, the experiment being not of reflection without previous refraction, but after much refraction, and that their different refrangibility is in truth alone the cause of their ap- parent different reflexibility. I believe all opticians have admitted the correctness of my reasoning in this ; and that the different reflexibility of the New- tonian system has long ceased to be admitted at all. In these papers I only had a query as to different flexibility, which Newton does not suggest; but in EARLY LIFE. 71 papers long since given in the Philosophical Trans- actions, and in the Memoirs of the National Institute of France, the existence of this property is fully shown by various experiments. Besides the two optical papers (1796-1797), there was one on Porisms, inserted in the Philosophical Transactions the year after (1798). Great as was the pleasure and solid advantage of studying under such men as Playfair and Stewart, the gratification of attending one of Black's last courses exceeded all I have ever enjoyed. In my life of that great man ('Lives of the Philosophers') I have attempted to describe this pleasure.* Not a little of this extreme interest certainly belonged to the accident that he had so long survived the period of his success — that we knew there sat in our pre- sence the man now in old age reposing under the laurels won in his early youth. But, take it altogether, the effect was such as cannot well be conceived. I have heard the greatest understandings of the age giving forth their efforts in their most eloquent tongues — have heard the commanding periods of Pitt's majestic oratory — the vehemence of Fox's burning declamation — have followed the close-com- pacted chain of Grant's pure reasoning — been carried away by the mingled fancy, epigram, and argumenta- tion of Plunket ; but I would without hesitation pre- fer, for mere intellectual gratification (though aware how much of it is derived from association), to be * See note, p. 26. 72 EARLY LIFE. once more allowed the privilege which I in those days enjoyed, of being present, while the first philosopher of his age was the historian of his own discoveries, and be an eyewitness of those experiments by which he had formerly made them, once more performed with his own hands. His style of lecturing was as nearly perfect as can well be conceived ; for it had all the simplicity which is so entirely suited to scientific discourse, while it partook largely of the elegance of all he said or did. The publication of his lectures has conveyed an accu- rate idea of the purely analytical order in which he deemed it best to handle the subject with a view to instruction, considering this as most likely to draw and to fix the learner's attention, to impress his memory, and to show him both the connection of the theory with the facts, and the steps by which the principles were originally ascertained. He would illustrate his doctrine of latent heat by referring to what is seen and felt, but passed without remark, in the boiling of a kettle, and the steam coming from its spout of different heat at different distances; or would remind us of the surprise expressed by finding that boiling water is cooled far more quickly than could be foreseen upon the addition of a very little cold; or that a hot chestnut which the mouth cannot bear, is in an instant made bearable by the least drop of wine sipped with it, and the wine not becoming sensibly hotter. His experiments were often like Franklin's, performed with the simplest apparatus — indeed with EARLY LIFE. 73 nothing that could be called apparatus at all. I forget whether he showed us the experiment of a bladder filled with inflammable air, and rising to the ceiling, which he had often shown to his friends in private, and which was the origin of the air-balloon ; but I remember his pouring fixed air from a vessel in which sulphuric acid had been poured upon chalk, and show- ing us how this air poured on a candle extinguished the light. He never failed to remark on the great use of simple experiments within every one's reach ; and liked to dwell on the manner in which discoveries are made, and the practical effect resulting from them in changing the condition of men and things. The scheme of the lectures may thus be apprehended — the execution imperfectly ; for the diction was evidently, in many instances, extemporaneous, the notes before the teacher furnishing him with little more than the substance, especially of those portions which were connected with experiments. But still less can the reader rise from the perusal to any con- ception of the manner. Nothing could be more suited to the occasion: it was perfect philosophical calmness; there was no effort, but it was an easy and a graceful conversation. The voice was low, but perfectly dis- tinct and audible through the whole of a large hall crowded in every part with mutely attentive listeners; it was never at all forced, any more than were the motions of the hands, but it was anything rather than monotonous. Perfect elegance as well as repose was the phrase by which every hearer and spectator 74 EARLY LIFE. naturally, as if by common consent, described the whole delivery. The accidental circumstance of the great teacher's aspect, I hope I may be pardoned for stopping to note, while endeavouring to convey the idea of a philosophic discoverer. His features were singularly graceful, full of intelligence, but calm, as suited his manner and his speech. His high forehead and sharp temples were slightly covered, when I knew him, with hair of a snow-white hue, and his mouth gave a kindly as well as a most intelligent expression to his whole features. In one department of his lectures he exceeded any I have ever known — the neatness and unvarying success with which all the manipulations of his experiments were performed. His correct eye and steady hand contributed to the one : his admirable precautions, foreseeing and pro- viding for every emergency, secured the other. I have seen him pour boiling water or boiling acid from a vessel that had no spout, into a tube, holding it at such a distance as made the stream's diameter small, and so vertical that not a drop was spilt. While he poured he would mention this adaptation of the height to the diameter as a necessary condition of success. I have seen him mix two substances in a receiver into which a gas, as chlorine, had been in- troduced, the effect of the combination being perhaps to produce a compound inflammable in its nascent state, and the mixture being effected by drawing some string or wire working through the receiver's sides in an air- tight socket. The long table on which the different EARLY LIFE. 75 processes had been carried on was as clean at the end of the lecture as it had been before the apparatus was planted upon it. Not a drop of liquid, not a grain of dust remained. The reader who has known the pleasures of science will forgive me if, at the distance of much more than half a century, I love to linger over these recollec- tions, and to dwell on the delight which I well re- member thrilled me as we heard this illustrious sage detail, after the manner I have feebly attempted to portray, the steps by which he made his discoveries, illustrating them with anecdotes sometimes recalled to his mind by the passages of the moment, and giving their demonstration by performing before us the many experiments which had revealed to him first the most important secrets of nature. Next to the delight of having actually stood by him when his victory was gained, we found the exquisite grati- fication of hearing him simply, most gracefully, in the most calm spirit of philosophy, with the most perfect modesty, recount his difficulties, and how they were overcome ; open to us the steps by which he had successfully advanced from one part to an- other of his brilliant course ; go over the same ground, as it were, in our presence which he had for the first time trod so many long years before ; hold up, perhaps, the very instruments he had then used, and act over again the same part before our eyes which had laid the deep and broad foundations of his imperishable renown. Not a little of this /6 EARLY LIFE. extreme interest certainly belonged to the accident that he had so long survived the period of his success — that we knew there sat in our presence the man now in his old age reposing under the laurels Avon in his early youth. But, take it altogether, the effect was such as cannot well be conceived. One thing was very striking in his lectures, as also in his conversation, and it was equally remarkable in his friend and pupil Watt ; the great care, even to minute particulars of evidence, which he took to appropriate to every one his share in the discoveries of which he was treating. His love of justice was one of the most marked characteristics of his nature, as it was of the Duke of Wellington's. I well re- member Denman saying, Avhen he saw him rush forward to defend some officer unjustly attacked, or to obtain for him the share of commendation that he thought had been inadequately awarded, " Of all that man's great and good qualities, the one which stands first is his anxious desire ever to see justice done, and the pain he manifestly feels from the sight of injus- tice." This observation came with peculiar grace from one who in such attributes was the greatest judge of the day. It is somewhat remarkable that both Black and Watt have suffered more than almost any who can be named from the plagiarisms of others, and their unfairness, sometimes from national, sometimes from personal prejudices. They bore this with different degrees of equanimity. Black seemed never to re- EARLY LIFE. 77 gard it at all ; indeed he was singularly exempt from either vanity or ambition, and only cared for the progress of science, by whomsoever it was assisted, though regarding as essential to that progress the due ascertainment and positive declaration of each person's merits. I have heard him with astonish- ment, in bearing testimony to the great merits of Lavoisier, both as a great discoverer and generaliser of facts observed by others, and bestowing praise unstinted upon his works, without even making the least allusion to the entire suppression in them of all reference to his name as founder of the new school of chemistry, by the discovery of latent heat and permanently elastic fluids; and this after he had received, years before, letters in which Lavoisier expresses his " zealous admiration of the profound genius and discoveries which had made such revolu- tions in science ;" and the year after, "that he had for a long time been accustomed to regard him as his master, and only lamented not having been able to convey his admiration in person, and rank himself among his disciples." When Black saw that the discovery of latent heat was distinctly claimed as Lavoisier's own, after it had for twenty years been described in the Professor's lectures, and been re- cognised all over Europe as his discovery, he was not a little surprised at the conduct of his corre- spondent. These strange proceedings of Lavoisier were, as we learn from Professor Eobison, only treated with a silent contempt expressed for the 78 EARLY LIFE. flattery of his letters. Fourcroy gives Black the full credit of his discoveries, and distinctly states that they had been the foundation of the new system (Elem. de Chym., i. 30, 40; Syst. de Cour. Chy- mique, ii. 28, 40). I remember the first time I ever was in his society. When I went to take a ticket for his class, there stood upon his table a small brass instrument for weighing the guineas given. On learning who I was, he entered into conversation in a most kind manner. He said he concluded I was not a medical student, as all but two or three of the class were ; among whom were Messrs Yogt and Watenbach of Hamburg, and M. Koenig of Dresden. He asked what classes I had attended, and expressed himself much pleased with what I told him of the great interest I took in math- ematics and natural philosophy, recommending the study of Newton's Optics, both for the substance and the method. When I was going away he said : " You must have been surprised at my using this instru- ment to weigh your guineas, but it was before I knew who you were. I am obliged to weigh them when strange students come, there being a very large number who bring light guineas; so that I should be defrauded of many pounds every year if I did not act in self-defence against that class of students;" and he particularly mentioned one class, describing them. The qualities which distinguished him as an inquirer and as a teacher followed him into all EARLY LIFE. 79 the ordinary affairs of life. , He was a person whose opinions on every subject were marked by calmness and sagacity, wholly free from both passion and prejudice, while affectation was only known to him from the comedies he might have read. His temper, in all the circumstances of life, was unruffled. This was perceived in his lectures, when he had occasion to mention any narrow prejudice or any unworthy proceeding of other philosophers. One exception there certainly was, possibly the only one in his life. He seemed to have felt hurt at the objections urged by a German chemist called Meyer to his doctrine of causticity, which that person ex- plained by supposing an acid, called by him acidum pingue, to be the cause of alkaline mildness. The unsparing severity of the lecture in which Black exposed the ignorance and dogmatism of this foolish reasoner cannot well be forgotten by his hearers, who both wondered that so ill -matched an antagonist should have succeeded where so many crosses had failed in discomposing the sage, and observed how well fitted he was, should occasion be offered, for a kind of exertion exceedingly different from all the efforts that at other times he was wont to make. Against this Meyer he had no prejudice of a national kind whatever. One subject of his constant praise was Magroff, whom he held up as a great example of skilful and judicious analytical investigation, and placing him greatly above Potts. Of Bergman he had by no means a great admiration, but Magroff was less 80 EARLY LIFE. ambitious in his researches, and Bergman claimed the place of a discoverer, which Black was unwilling to allow him, appearing to join with those who pleasantly said his greatest discovery was the discovering Scheele. It is needless to add that of Scheele he had the greatest admiration. In truth he placed him at the head of all ; and except Sir Isaac Newton, I do not remember any name so devoutly revered by him as Scheele's. When, a year or two after, I passed in my Swedish tour one night through Koping, where Scheele lived, though a native of Pomerania, I well remember being haunted by the recollection of Black, an account of whose death had reached me just as I was setting out for Stockholm.* Among others who have since been distinguished, Thomas Young and George Birkbeck were my fellow- students under Black.t Long before entering the Speculative Society, and when only somewhat trained in the young Debating Society, after little more than one session at the col- lege, I had an opportunity of trying my voice at a great meeting, that of the Eoyal Medical Society, a chartered body, to which almost all the medical students, and one or two others, belonged. The meetings were weekly, and between 100 and 150 were often present, including a small number of visitors. * Charles William Scheele, the Swedish chemist, born 1742, died 1786. t George Birkbeck, born 1776, died 1841, chiefly known for his exer- tions in the establishment of Mechanics' Institutes. George Young, cele- brated for deciphering the Rosetta inscription, born 1773, died 1829. EARLY LIFE. 8 1 The subjects, of course, were almost always medical, or connected with medical science, but occasionally subjects were broached which had little or no connec- tion with it. The business consisted of one or two papers which were read, each member being required, in his turn, to give in a paper ; and the whole having been read, without debate, by the secretary, a second reading took place, at any part of which all present might introduce objections or discussion on popular topics, but of a scientific description. The debate was often of considerable length, and sometimes even adjourned. The subject on which I spoke was the much-vexed question of " liberty and necessity," and, according to my recollection, I spoke after Mr Wool- comb, subsequently an eminent physician at Plymouth, and a man of great learning and ability, universally respected through life ; but whether my contention lay with him, or others who had espoused the same side, that of " necessity," is not in my recollection. I, however, found that, after the first alarm had abated, I had no difficulty in making my way, and my speech was far better received than it deserved ; the impres- sion made being very much owing to my youth, which appeared very clearly from my person, and might have done still more from my topics. The Logic class which I was then attending furnished many of the terms used ; as, for instance, I not only charged one of my antagonists with petitio principii, but had the pedantry to charge another with an idolum theatri* Bacon's expression for a vulgar error. * EifitoXoj/ Qfarpov. VOL. I. F 82 EARLY LIFE. It is pretty clear that, whatever merit the delivery or composition might have, or whatever town as well as college gossip it might give rise to, the argument was far from unanswerable; for it mainly consisted in an attempt to prove that a denial of free-will was incon- sistent with the foreknowledge of the Deity, whereas the necessitarian side of the question is often supposed to be more aided by that topic. In truth there is some difficulty in this view of the question ; and that is perhaps best avoided by the assumption, quite well grounded, that with Omniscience there is no such thing as before and after, all times being alike present to the infinite and eternal mind. The success of this attempt impressed on me more than ever the necessity of care and attention in pre- paring for any such occasion, and the necessity of going beyond books, and even not resting satisfied with the most important study of all, as preparation for eloquence — the oratory of the ancients. It became, therefore, my constant practice to hear all the speak- ers and preachers who were most admired. The Court of Session always, and the General Assembly in the month of May, were accessible ; and I was not only frequently taken there by my father, but also went with one or two of my companions. At that time it \vas impossible to enter into the particular merits of different speakers : little more could be learned than their excellence or defects of manner, with something of the difference between oratory as read or as heard. The great speakers and preachers left a lasting impres- EARLY LIFE. 83 sion, and from some of the most eminent I really may be said to have brought away lessons or sugges- tions that have been turned to account. Even thus early I profited not a little from the great leaders of the bar, and somewhat from great preachers, both masters of declamation and of pathos. From one whose eloquence was remarkable, and in pathetic passages especially, I learnt a use of the voice which was thus impressed on my mind when very young, and which I have often employed in after-life - namely, of dropping the voice at particular passages, to command general attention, or enforce silence. It was from the use of this expedient that some, as Abercromby (Dunfermline), used to talk of " Brougham's whispers," alluding to my power of whispering through the House of Commons to the very door and wall. The preacher from whom I learned this had a very feeble voice, which probably suggested it to him. I certainly had not the same reason. Of the great advocates, Hope had a most powerful voice ; Erskine one of great variety, but of sufficient compass ; Blair a strong but inarticulate one, his manner dignified, with his matter making amends for the defects of his voice. In those days, however, it was little more than the manner that was studied and remarked. After my return from the Continent, I was admitted an advocate, early in 1800, but I had for several years before been devoting myself to the practice of public speaking ; having begun this by establishing, with 84 EARLY LIFE. some of my friends, a debating society, which was founded in December 1792. I have now before me the original minute-book, in which the first entry is as follows : — "This society was formed in December 1792; and at the first meeting, on the 22d day of Decem- ber 1792, received the name of the Juvenile Literary Society." Then follows a list of the members, twenty-one in number, headed by my name as founder and first president. Among the first members were Horner, Henry Mackenzie (afterwards Lord Mackenzie), John Forbes (afterwards Lord Medwyn), James Keay, who rose high at the bar; Andrew Wauchope, who dis- tinguished himself in the Peninsular war; and Andrew Thomson, the eloquent preacher and leader in the Church Courts. The laws were very strict. Absence without ex- cuse, to be inquired into by a committee, was fined. Coming late, half an hour beyond the time of meeting, was also fined ; and occasionally, though very rarely, expulsion was inflicted for repeated breach of the rules. The laws were sometimes revised by a com- mittee of inquiry, and altered upon its report. At the end of the session and commencement of the six months' vacation a commission was appointed, on the model of that in the General Assembly, to look after the affairs of the society. The meetings were on Saturday morning, when there were no college classes. The members presided in rotation, and an essay was EARLY LIFE. 85 read from the chair, and submitted to criticism. The questions were put into a list, upon the report of a committee. One was given out for each meeting, and a member appointed to debate it on each side ; any other afterwards taking part in the discussion. Many of the speeches were read, but sometimes an extempore debate was had on a question proposed by the president, without any notice. The politics of the day were generally excluded ; but from a letter from Forbes (Lord Medwyn), addressed to the secretary in 1794, there appears to have been an apprehension of their introduction. I see one debate was on theatrical representations being injurious to virtue, and decided in the negative by four to one. On the question whether Elizabeth was justified in putting Mary to death, I stood alone against Elizabeth, which shows that the answer I gave at Edinburgh two years ago had not been an opinion recently formed. Having attended the drawing-room given by Lady Belhaven (his Grace the Lord High Commissioner's wife), in Holyrood House, I was taken to see the chamber in which Eizzio had been mur- dered, and the queen's bedroom adjoining; and on my expressing the natural feeling of horror at the assassination, and the outrage also to her feelings, with some observation upon the conduct of Elizabeth, they said, " Then of course you consider Mary as innocent of all that has been laid to her charge." I answered, " Quite the contrary ; I regard her conduct in the worst light possible as regards Scotland, my 86 EARLY LIFE. only doubt being upon her share in Babington's con- spiracy." On the question whether the lawyer or the divine is more useful to society, it was given in favour of the divine, — all the lawyers voting in the majority ! That Brutus was unjustifiable in killing Caesar, was decided in the affirmative, as I well recollect, after an excel- lent speech by Horner on that side of the question. " Whether the prodigal is a worse member of society than the miser;" — I voted with the majority, Horner the other way. " Whether man is happier in a rude than in a civilised state ;" — both Horner and I voted in the minority, I grieve to say, the decision being for the civilised state. " That benevolence is a stronger O principle of action than interest ; " — Horner voted with the majority, I with the minority. On looking over the rules and the proceedings of this society it is very remarkable to find the extreme regularity with which the business was conducted, and the order which prevailed; so that the example of these boys mii>iit be a lesson to their seniors in other «/ o assemblies. Such of us as were destined for the bar afterwards entered the Speculative Society, which had been long established, and had a hall and library of its own in the college. Men older than ourselves were amono- o O its active members ; but of our standing were Jeffrey (though a little older), Ilorner, Murray, and Moncrieff, Miller, Loch, Adam, Coekburn, Jardine — and there were several students who had come from England. EARLY LIFE. 87 Of these, the most distinguished were, Lord Henry Petty (afterwards Lansdowne), and Charles Kinnaird (afterwards Lord Kinnaird), Lord Webb Seymour, and somewhat later the two Grants, Glenelg, and his brother Sir Eobert. Political differences ran high at that time, and there was a personal quarrel with the professors, who had accused us of French principles. There was another quarrel from an attempt to exclude William Adam, when Charles Hope (afterwards Lord President) behaved as he always did, most honour- ably, and with a total disregard of political differences. Notwithstanding these impediments, great progress was made in the practice of debating, which many of us showed in after-life that we had well learned ; and I remember Lord Medwyn, when he came to London during the session of Parliament, saying, that when he heard the debates he recognised his old brethren of the Speculative as well as their speeches there.4" It is fit to mention that the great lights of the Scotch bar at this time were Erskine, Tait, and Charles Hope, as speakers ; Blair and Eoss, as lawyers.t Ad- mirable as Harry Erskine was in all respects, both as an advocate and a speaker, the person who struck me most, and gave me the first conception of an orator, was Hope. I had never been in London, and had heard none of the great speakers. The effect produced on me by Hope's eloquence was beyond anything I could previously have conceived ; nor have I ever forgotten * See Appendix IX. f These will be found commented on in Chapter IV. 88 EARLY LIFE. it. He was a very powerful speaker in all respects, but his declamation was of the very highest order. Even his violent political opponents confessed this. I have heard Gillies and Malcolm Laing assert, that if he had been earlier introduced into Parliament, he would have proved superior to Pitt. Gillies himself had great powers as a speaker; and for close logical argument, Cranstoun (afterwards Lord Corehouse) was never surpassed. This was the opinion of all our law- yers who heard him at the bar of the House of Lords. Peel said he was the finest speaker he had ever heard, except Pitt — which was not a very happy comparison, as no two styles of speaking could be more entirely different. Indeed, Sir William Grant was the only Parliamentary speaker of the same order as Cranstoun. Between 1795 and 1799, I generally (as my father did not care to return to Brougham) took advantage of vacations to make walking tours through different parts of the Highlands. These were wild scrambling excursions, but abounding in mirth and jollity ; for we were young, .active, and overburdened with high spirits. My companions generally were, my brother James, John Russell, my cousin (his mother being a daughter of Dr Robertson), James Ferguson, and Charles Stuart, my most intimate friend (afterwards Lord Stuart de Rothsay). 1 kept no journal of our tours ; and only recollect that we visited the Falls of the Clyde, Stirling, Loch Katrine and its romantic scenery, and a large portion of the Western Highlands. We must EARLY LIFE. 89 have been indefatigable walkers ; for I well remem- ber, on one occasion, Stuart and I had not only walked the feet off our stockings, but also the soles off our boots. Some charitable friend near whose house we then were, but whose name I utterly and most un- gratefully forget, re-equipped us, and then we went on to Inverness. These walking expeditions were the pleasantest times of my life ; for I was then working very hard, and while in Edinburgh allowed myself no relaxation. And yet this is not strictly true; for there was a set of us guilty, at occasional times, of very riotous and unseemly proceedings. After the day's work, we would adjourn to the Apollo Club, where the orgies were more of the " high jinks " than of the calm or philosophical debating order ; or to Johnny Dow's, celebrated for oysters. I do believe it was there that I acquired that love for oysters which adheres to me even now ; so much so, that on coming to an inn, the first question I generally ask is, Have you any oysters ? But sometimes, if not generally, these nocturnal meetings had endings that in no small degree disturbed the tranquillity of the good town of Edinburgh. I cannot tell how the fancy originated ; but one of our constant exploits, after an evening at the Apollo, or at Johnny's, was to parade the streets of the New Town, and wrench the brass knockers off the doors, or tear out the brass handles of the bells ! No such ornaments existed in the Old Town ; but the New Town, lately built, abounded in sea-green doors and huge brazen devices, which were more than our 90 EARLY LIFE. youthful hands could resist. The number we tore off must have been prodigious ; for I remember a large dark closet in my father's house, of which I kept the key, and which was literally filed with our spolia opima. We had no choice but to hoard them ; for, it is pretty obvious, we could not exhibit or otherwise dispose of them. It was a strange fancy ! and must have possessed some extraordinary fascination ; for it will scarcely be credited, and yet it is true as gos- pel, that so late as March 1803, when we gave a fare- well banquet (I think at Fortune's Hotel) to Homer, on his leaving Edinburgh for ever to settle in London, we, accompanied by the grave and most sedate Hor- ner (set. 25, or, to speak quite correctly, 24 years and 7 months), sallied forth to the North Bridge,, and there halted in front of Mr Manderson the druggist's shop, where I, hoisted on the shoulders of the tallest of the company, placed myself on the top of the doorway, held on by the sign, and twisted off the enormous brazen serpent, which formed the explanatory announcement of the business that was carried on within. I forget the end of the adventure, but I rather think the city guard exhibited unusual activity on that occasion, and that we had a hard run for it. Looking back to those pranks reminds me of the inexhaustible fund of spirits we possessed, and how that capital foundation of never-tiring energy and endless restlessness enabled some of us to work on with unfailing strength to the end of life ; and even now, writing at nearly 90 years of age, I can recall those, not boys' but young men's ,EARLY LIFE. 91 freaks with pleasure and even exultation ; yet I agree with what the old beggar Ochiltree, in the best of all Scott's novels, says, " Aye, aye, — they were daft days thae, but they were a' vanity and waur." * I remember another occasion, which, however, had none of the riotous element, but was only a piece of sober fun. There was a man called Heron — at least I think that was his name — who was addicted to writing plays — execrable stuff; and yet he contrived, through some intimacy with the theatrical people, to get one of them put upon the Edinburgh stage. I totally for- get the name of the piece ; but I perfectly remember going with some of my merry friends to witness the first performance. It dragged wearily through two or three acts, the audience showing unmistakable symp- toms of impatience, when, at a scene representing a dinner or supper, one of the actors after giving a toast said, " What shall we drink now ? " To which I, from the middle of the pit, raising my lanky figure, replied, " Well drink good afternoon, if you please " 1 The effect was electrical ; not another word of the play would the audience hear ; and after vain entreaties from the manager that they would permit it to pro- ceed, the curtain fell amidst shouts that must have wellnigh been the death of the poor author.t Late in the summer of 1799, I joined an expedition fitted out by John Joseph Henry, an excellent and enterprising man of large fortune in Ireland, nephew of Lord Moira, who afterwards married the Duke * See Appendix X. f See Appendix XL 92 EARLY LIFE, of Leinster's daughter. He had attended the Col- lege of Glasgow under Professor Miller, and occasion- ally came to Edinburgh, where I became acquainted with him. Charles Stuart, who was at Glasgow under Professor Young, also knew him, and joined the expedition. * Its purpose was to visit Iceland, and examine the various objects of interest in that island. But after cruising about the Western Islands, lona, Staffa, St Kilda, and others, it appeared to Stuart and myself manifest that the season was too far advanced, and that the voyage to Iceland must be given up, as in fact proved to be the case. While, however, we were among the Western Isles, I wrote the following letters to my kinsman, Lord Kobert- son : — "ISLAY, August — , 1799. " MY DEAR SIK, — Here we are safely moored in a comfortable berth, for which we gladly exchanged our good ship and bad cabins. You must excuse various things in this letter, want of arrangement, poverty of matter, and bad, or at least careless, style. As for the egotism of the epistle, debit it all to the traveller, and to my confidence in the interest which you are pleased to take in my rambles. " We made a much longer stay in Glasgow than I either wished or expected. Gents of £16,000 per an- num are always in a hurry, and do little — always busy, and lose time. However, I believe you will agree with me in thinking my time neither disagreeably * See Appendix XII. TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 93 nor unprofitably spent when I inform you that after a pleasant visit to Stirlingshire I passed the rest of the fortnight constantly with a set of ten or twelve military men, of long standing in the army, famous for knowledge of the world, and besides, in general, men of the best abilities and temper. The evenings (if sober) were diversified by visits to the Glasgow natives, whose golden brutality served to render our private society doubly agreeable. " We came to Greenock for the purpose of superin- tending our preparations several times ; but as these trips were generally made in company of the above parties, and always in the night, our amusements were not interrupted. " On Sunday last I went aboard, and our parties continued much in the same style. I must, however, out with tout ce qui s'est passG before we weighed. Our adventures prior to this period would have filled a volume. The only part of them which I look back on with regret is the bottle department ; and over this scene I shall decline leading you, because I draw a curtain over it, and you'd run a great risk of cut- ting yourself in the dark among the fragments of innumerable dozens of empty bottles. " A circumstance occurred to detain us two days after we went on board, but to me its tenor was so flat- tering as to compensate for the delay. Several appli- cations had been made to Government, by Lords Bute and Moira, for a protection against pressing. These were point-blank and uniformly refused. I thought 94 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. of writing to Sir J. Banks, who applied, and sent mo notice by return. Next post came a second letter, stating his having obtained his request at once, on putting it upon the footing which I suggested. " The protection accordingly arrived, to our great joy; and to mine in particular, as it was enclosed to me, with a very polite letter from Mr Secretary Nepean. " On Tuesday we dropped down, almost becalmed. A delightful day and charming scenery made us forget the slowness of our motion ; and a gentleman, with your humble servant, performed the pleasant feat of dining in the maintop. We drank freely to our suc- cess, and superintended a salute fired on our land friends going ashore. I cannot describe, with any degree of justice to the subject, the joyful nature of this scene. All our spirits afloat, a fine vessel, good crew, prospect of a pleasant voyage in the bush, and good weather in hand, enchanting scenery and agree- able company, rendered us completely cheerful. When in this humour, our passport, &c., before described, arrived from port, to my great joy. As soon as the new spirit of life which this imparted had subsided, a pleasant breeze again enlivened us ; and scarce had our joy become, for a second time, calm, when turning a point the homeward-bound West India fleet arrived in full view and full sail. The setting sun showed us such a sight as I shall never forget ; and whilst they passed us with a salute, slowly fired, I could not help thinking that if a romance-writer had wished to select circumstances for an outset to his piece, or indeed for TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 95 any part of it, his fancy might, ten to one, have never conjured up such a collection of agreeable traits as conspired to illuminate our debut upon the sea. This you'll think mighty romantic for one who at that moment was sitting aloft with a pint tumbler of claret in one hand and a sea-biscuit in t'other ; but true it is and of verity we were all sympathetically struck. As we got down towards Govan, and the Channel, I went to deck; and after viewing the lumin- ous track of the ship's wake, sometimes from deck, sometimes in the boat hoisted for me, I retired to the cabin, where we supped in perfect harmony. I took a last walk, and then slept for an hour aloft : this put me in mind of bed, so to bed I went. Turn the leaf, and you'll find fortune beforehand with you. "At four in the morning I awoke, and found the vessel rolling and pitching, the wind blowing, the captain swearing, and the sailors, as is usual, all abroad. Force brought them to their posts, and fear, more than shame, kept them at work. "We were making for the Mull of Cantire, the doubling of which is more dreaded than twenty West India voyages. This I knew, and had prepared for, keep- ing myself quiet and easy, by stripping naked in my berth, and taking towels, &c., to bed with me. By nine the storm increased. I seemed destined, within twenty-four hours, to experience every dif- ferent feeling. Now all was confusion and bustle : the captain alone was calm as I am at present. I heard his orders in the wind : as things blackened 96 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. he stripped, and became, if possible, more cool, as did the men. In this posture of affairs I heard him say, ' God I there's nothing for it!' but instantly the ship righted, though the rolling continued and the sea-sick- ness increased, all men vomiting but myself, who had taken care to shut my eyes for half an hour at first. Next night it grew calmer, and before that, we had a hot dinner. The greatest of my foes was a cascade of rum, the cask being beaten through our cabin window ! The immediate consequence was intoxica- tion ; but this soon went off. "Making Islay at 11 o'clock, we landed; and after a little rough admiration, divided into two parties ; one attended Shawfield to Islay House, the other went along the coast to view the country and see a wreck lying at some distance. You may easily believe I was of the latter division. The bay in which the brig was wrecked is nine miles long, and the finest I ever saw : we only wanted a storm to complete the scene. The vessel was cast ashore last November, and is quite dry at low-water. The sailors were all busy trying for the last time to float her round a point of land to Bowmore harbour, where we were landed; and in a few hours they actually succeeded. We saw the wreck raised along by a few barrels, though her bottom is battered to pieces, and her masts cut off by the maintop and foretop. She arrived at two in the morn- ing, and we had her captain to see us all drink. After a botanical and mineralogical walk, our appetite re- minded us of dinner; so a pot was boiled in tent, TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 9/ and a fine live salmon being caught was introduced. After a few turns in the warm water he became quiet — • ' vitaque cum gemitu fugit indignata sub umbras/ — either the shades below, or the shade of our awning, or the uninvited guests (umbrae) who flocked round us. You have no idea, sir, how good boiled salmon is. "To acquire this three things are requisite — a stormy voyage, then a rustic entertainment without knives and forks, and chiefly the utter and absolute and animated freshness of the fish. I would turn up my nose at your CALLER Edinburgh fish. We concluded our meal, or rather feast, with some fine mutton ; and then, on a green bank, and in a fine evening, with our faces towards the wreck and the Irish coast, Giant's Cause- way, &c., quaffed goblets of the delicious nectar of Bordeaux and the Ehine — in other words, claret and old hock from our ship. A short walk up the country sobered us completely, and we returned to the village to tea. At supper we had the heads of the town, and (inter alias) a man who has written wisely against tea, and still more wisely against the Newtonian theory. It is amusing to find in this remote and barbarous corner a carle who holds Sir Isaac in utter contempt. Next morning, after visiting the ship, we went to Islay House, where we have remained ever since, to our vast edification. Every day we have made ex- cursions through the island, and constantly found materials for gratification and amusement. The coun- try is fertile and only needed cultivation, which Shaw- field is giving it in great abundance. The natives are VOL. i. G 98 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. a very simple and worthy set of men, and the women either very handsome or intolerably ugly. Shawfield's family is truly agreeable, and we all live together like brothers and sisters. We have hopes of seeing Lady Charlotte herself, should our vessel be wind-bound ; but though the temptation is great, our eagerness to reach the main point is still greater. "Monday Evening. " I must now think of finishing this long letter, and shall fatigue you farther by giving you some idea of our plan. It may hereafter be modified by circumstances, but the outline will most likely remain the same. You may communicate this or any other part of the present letter to our folks, just as you please and how you please. We sail to-morrow or next day ; and after touching at another island, St Kilda or the Lewis, we make direct for the Faroe Islands, and reach them probably in eight or ten days. There is as much to be seen in them as at Iceland. Thence we go (perhaps changing our vessel) to Ice- land ; and after travelling there about six or eight weeks, we determine whether we return by the east or west, and this must very much depend upon the state of the privateering and the facility of obtaining neutral ships to convey us. If we go by west, we take a full view in the best season of the Hebrides, Orkneys, &c., and conclude all by going to Iceland for some time — perhaps for a considerable time. If we go by east — or if, instead of making Iceland, we go from Faroe to Norway, which is possible (and TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 99 which, if you see my mother uneasy, you may tell her is the plan resolved on) — then our Continental tour must occupy a longer time, as perhaps the temptations of the season may draw us to Peters- burgh. This, I confess, is my wish — winter is the time for Eussia and Lapland. So, good-night and a merry Christmas ! I shall write a line from our next point of appui. — H. B. " Should you be from home when this arrives, I leave you to judge whether it may not be proper to drop James a few lines, informing him that I am well, &c. ; but as you please. — H. B." "STORNOWAY, August 14, 1799. " MY DEAR SIR, — I am much afraid that you begin to be tired of my letters, but I trust more to the in- terest you were so good as to express for our success than to any chance which my details can possibly have of amusing you or giving any important in- formation. My last was dated from St Kilda, but you will not receive it for six or seven weeks. It contained little or nothing, was written in a pelting hurry, and more for the sake of the joke than any- thing else. We had a most favourable run from Islay. During two days and nights the wind was fair, the sky clear, the sea calm ; but my enjoyments were sadly damped by a very unwelcome guest — a season- ing sickness; it lasted all that time : and about fifty hours after our departure from Islay we came in sight ICO TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. of St Kilda, or Hirta - - the most remote, and, I think, most singular of all the British Islands. We put off a boat with several of our party, ordering them to hail the natives, and to send out a country bark, well-manned, to carry us over the neighbouring surf. They got slowly to shore, and landed with difficulty on a very rocky coast, with a heavy rolling sea. "We afterwards found, by their not making signal and some other circumstances, that we were taken for a French privateer, and avoided as such, all the inhabitants preparing their all for a flight to the mountains. We in the vessel stood round, and had a full coasting view of this most singular spot and its adjoining rocks and islets. A more awful scenery you cannot imagine. The grandeur of the scenery was heightened by the fineness of the day, and still more by the idea that a single puff of wind might prove fatal to us, by raising the whole fury of the Western Ocean. At last came two boats, one belonging to the place and ours besides, but both manned by the savayes. This alarmed us: we thought tli at our party must be lost or taken, and the arm- chcst was instantly opened ; but the boats approach- ing, we found the natives quite pacific, and several came on board — among others their priest, without whom nothing would induce them to venture near us. The worthy man partook of our cabin cheer, and we prepared to go ashore with some provender. We found him and his compatriots in a state of ignorance truly singular : they had heard of the Avar with TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. IOI France, but knew nothing of Lord Howe's victory, nor any subsequent event ; yet the proprietor's tacks- man goes there twice a-year : but we were told that he carefully conceals every event from them if suc- cessful, in order to keep up their alarms, 'which, we found, he turns to good account. AYeVXvere ^rau^ed with this miniature of what some in the great world are accused of doing, and still more diverted with the simplicity of these savages, who can thus be duped and made to believe their wretched residence and miserable possessions a bait sufficiently alluring to the ' grande nation/ Yet so it is, that they live in as constant dread of invasion as if all the wealth of London and Liverpool were stored up in St Kilda. A.bout eight o'clock we set off in the St Kildian boat with above twenty of the natives and ten of our- selves. The sea was a little threatening, so we had to keep round by west. Our crew talked most in- fernally, and rowed very ill. Seeing that this pro- ceeded from laziness and loquacity, I desired the first (who alone could speak a word of English) to pro- mise them a dram if they rowed better, and to bid them be more quiet. The effect was instantaneous, and immediately the song arose, extempore in com- position and far from unmusical in execution ; of course pleasing in point of effect. I lay snugly wrapped up in my boat-cloak, which I beg leave to introduce you to as the envy and admiration of our whole party. We now weathered the gigantic rocks of Borera, which surround St Kilda to the north and 102 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. north-east ; and as it was past eleven, I allowed myself to be lulled asleep by the cadence of the chorus and the oars. About half-past twelve I heard a little confu- .sion, and -fpipd. the steersman quitting the helm to give-pJacevto a more experienced one. Upon looking r^ifidi la isceif^ presented itself which beggars all de- scription. We were roughly and rapidly rolling through such a frightful pass as you cannot form any idea of. On each side huge masses of broken and impend- 'ing rock stretched up to a terrible height above our heads. These were towards their bases pierced with large, dark, rough caves, into which the sea dashed with stunning noise. Around our crazy overloaded bark lay huge masses of broken rocks, which rendered our course very serpentine, and every instant the keel grazed with a heavy and petrifying noise along the sunken rocks. " A circumstance occurred which, if you ever were at sea, must add vastly in your mind to the charms of this fine scene. Every stroke of the oars was attended with a vivid and durable stream of fire, throwing out sparks on all sides still more bright. My attention was called from this grand spectacle to the ludicrous panic -struck pickle of our worthy Doctor. 'Good Lord, sir— 0 sir— 0 sir!' 'Well, Doctor/ said I, ' here is a fine scene for you/ ' 'Deed, my dear sir, I fear it won't do/ ' Look at that cavern/ ' We touch the bottom ! ' 'Is not this light delightfully horrible ? ' ' Hear ! hear ! how we touch the sides!' 'Only see, Doctor, TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 103 what a noble scene — the flashing of the water, the foaming of the sea, the majesty of the rocks I ' ' Oh dear ! I am sure our boat can't weather it/ 'Then, Doctor, the craziness of the vessel, the shallowness of the water, the horrible gulfs near us. By the by, don't Mr Burke reckon terror the basis of the sub- lime?' 'Mr Brougham, sir — sir, I am just looking where we shall leap out, for a last chance, when the boat is dashed to pieces ! ' At one o'clock, after much perilous navigation, and a vast deal of grand scenery, we opened into a fine safe bay, and in half an hour more landed. We were conducted to the town (of which more hereafter), and entered the priest's house. A more wretched hovel never shel- tered beast from the storm than this ; and yet it is the only thing tenantable in the island, except the tacksman's. We refreshed ourselves a little, with his wife and mother; then, your humble servant being superintendent of stores and servants (ex officio), repaired with his train and provisions to the other house, was surrounded by many of the savages, ordered a fire, boiled a kettle, and blessed his own providence in the first instance for thinking of so charming and refreshing a beverage. I always make a point of landing in full uniform. My command over the stores and servants gives me vast dignity and patronage. Besides this, a joke goes about of giving us all nicknames. One is 'Lark;' — the Doctor, from his crawling after weeds, stones, and puddles, is ' Toad' ; and I, from some foolish mistake or other, 104 TOUR IX THE WESTERN ISLES. ' Billy Pitt/ So that from hence wherever we go I am believed to be related to that 'excellent min- ister/ You cannot conceive, therefore, how all these items procured me respect and worship ; all the island was at my nod in a second. While tea was preparing, I marshalled them thus : servants at my elbow, for aides-de-camp; provender in the rear; male natives in front ; female ditto at some dis- tance from our gentlemen — a most necessary precau- tion to prevent jealousy. To each native I distri- buted a ration of tobacco and a dram — their two greatest prizes, though neither had been in the island for two and a half years. We then drank tea and fine milk till three in the morning. Several of ours went to bed ; others slumbered over the fire. I sat up with the clergyman, whom I instantly put under the question, and talked over on all topics (insular ones) till near five o'clock, when we sallied forth to view the island in four different parties, the priest with us. And now for the first time we had a view of the city. Conceive, if you can, a sort of green bosom, at a quarter of a mile's distance, with steep green mountains, and on one side with a fine bay opening into rocky scenery; at one corner the dreadful pass, which I described before, and which appeared almost as bad by daylight. The rest of the scene is all ludicrous. The green bosom is di- vided into 400 'rip' or fields of barley and oats and potatoes — 25 feet %3! in the centre several green tufts of grassy sod, upon heaps of loose stones — these TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. IO5 we at last discovered to be the houses, twenty-six in number : on the hills, more such molehills, rather smaller, for cutting peats. This is the town, or city of Hirta, or St Kilda. It contains 100 inhabitants ; and the rest of the island is only broused by some sheep, horses, and cows. The view of this village is truly unique. Nothing in Captain Cook's voyages comes half so low. The natives are savage in due proportion ; the air is infected by a stench almost insupportable — a compound of rotten fish, filth of all sorts, and stinking sea-fowl. Their dress is chiefly composed of a coarse stuff made by themselves, some- what like tartan. They wear this chiefly in trousers and jackets, with coarse brogues, also made by them- selves. They make brooches of clumsy iron rings, with pins across : these are worn by the women to tuck up their plaids. Needles coarse in proportion ; thong-ropes for ascending the rocks in quest of nests and birds ; fish-hooks finer than the other articles ; thread and horn-spoons are the remaining manu- factures of this place — infinitely coarser and more clumsy, and made in smaller quantity and less variety, than those which navigators have found in any of the Pacific islands, New Holland in the south excepted. A total want of curiosity, a stupid gaze of wonder, an excessive eagerness for spirits and tobacco, a laziness only to be conquered by the hope of the above-mentioned cordials, and a beastly degree of filth, the natural consequence of this, render the St Kildian character truly savage. To all this our 106 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. people added tlie leading trait of furtivity of dispo- sition. ' We were in a constant jeopardy of pocket, so nimble-fingered are the savages. Bottles, sticks, &c. &c., all were seized ; but so simple-minded were the filchers that we as speedily recovered the said chattels.' My dear boat -cloak fell among others. I went in suddenly upon the suspected house, and drawing my sword, an instantaneous tremor pervaded the house, and I was told one of the servants had got it. The servants being called, and another flourish of the sword given, the simple men of St Kilda lifted up a board, and tremblingly gave me back the dear stray. These apparently trifling traits in the char- acter of these poor people will, I trust, be excused, as the best mode which my hurry and confusion can leave me of conveying to you an idea of the manners of a tribe which exemplifies most remarkably the old proverb, c One half the world don't know how the other lives.' We made several remarks on the state of the island, and the mode of management to which it is subject. Were its extent, fertility, and popula- tion of sufficient consequence, no better method of improvement could be fallen upon than to send a schoolmaster, and then to abolish the present iniquit- ous method of collecting its produce. The tacksman (whom the people think a steward) resides twice a- year there, to plunder under the name of Madeod's factor. He pays £20 sterling only to Macleod, and makes above twice as much himself. For this pur- pose all the milk of cows is brought into his dairy TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 107 from Mayday to Michaelmas, and all the ewes' milk together for the whole year. Every second lamb- rani and every seventh ewe go to the same quarter ; and this sanctified to his use under the name of a tenth. The rest of the rent is made up in feathers, at the rate of 3s. per stone, and the tacksman sells them in the Long Island for 10s. He is quite absolute in dispensing justice; punishes crimes by fines, and makes statutes of his own account, which are impli- citly obeyed. There are no murders ever known here ; and the priest told us, innocently enough, that the only adulteress in St Kilda is the steward's dairy- maid, who comes from the Long Island. There is no money current here — nothing like barter — and the rate of assessing the rent to Macleod is the only criterion of the prices of articles. According to this we found that a fat sheep is valued at 3s. 6d., a cow at 30s., a horse at 20s., barley at 16s. per boll, and potatoes at 3s. per barrel, which may contain about eight pecks. The inland parts of the island (if it can be said to have any) are as fit for grazing sheep and cattle as almost any other places in the Western Islands ; and several other spots besides the one where the town is, appear equally susceptible of cultivation — i. e., capable of producing no light or mean crops of barley. Upon the whole, I should suppose that with crops, with cattle, and with the vast resources of sea-fowl, eggs, and fish, St Kilda is capable of supporting a population of 1500 souls with ease. The only mortals among the present inhabitants 108 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. whom we found in any degree civilised above the brutes, were the priest and his family. He comes from the Long Island, and has been here fifteen years. He is a missionary, placed here with a salary, £25 sterling, by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. If in the course of your calls you ever see Mr Kemp (who corresponds with him once in an olympiad), pray give Mr Lachlan M'Leod's respects to him, and tell him that he complains grievously of his short allowance. This will make me quit of my promise to him ; — to say the truth, I think he has quite enough, unless that it requires some bribe to keep a man in St Kilda. " After a cheerful breakfast on good milk, &c. &c., we heard divine service performed audibly and fluently by our host in his kitchen, his only church. An altar stood in medio — viz., a kettle simmering on a fire. The savages stood round and the priest per- formed in a corner. He read, sang, and spoke in Gaelic, if I can judge, better in point of harmony, fluency, and attic smoothness et ore rotundo, than any I ever heard. I sometimes thought he was read- ing Homer, and reading him with justice. I find this letter has run to such an unconscionable length that I must now beg to subscribe myself your most obedient servant,* HENRY BROUGHAM." " STORNOWAY, August 19, 1799. " MY DEAR SIR, — Again you hear from me. Since my last letter has appeared to be worthy of your * See Appendix XIII. TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 109 notice, any anecdotes or remarks collected here must relate to the party more than the place, and an account of Lewis would only be a repetition of what must already have been printed. My reasons for writing, then, are truly selfish — to let you know what we have done to kill time, and to give you a farther sketch of our plans. Every morning we shoot grouse, hares, snipes, and deer till five o'clock, then eat the most luxurious dinners of game and fish, drinking claret, champagne, hermitage, and hock : at night we are uniformly and universally dead (drunk). Your humble servant being in the chair (ex officio) does his best, and having a good capacity enough for wine, does odd enough things. Yesterday our mess fell off — Campbell and I and two natives set in to it, and among four had twelve port-bottles : the natives and Bob being stowed away, I finished another bottle and a half of port with an old exciseman, major of the volunteers. This morning I went out and found all Stornoway in full tongue at my astonishing feat; went to the moors, walked it off, and killed a brace of hares at one discharge (keeping their skins for shoes) above a hundred yards off, and a grouse soon after still farther ; and to-night we give a ball. Now for business : my friend Stuart and I separate from the party at Faroe and try Iceland; after this go abroad for twelve months, and first to Sweden, Nor- way, and Denmark ; live cheap and study at Upsal ; then take Eussia. Now, could not you give us a letter or two of recommendation, either to your own 110 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. or your father's friends abroad, or the Colonel's \ By the by, don't you know Mr Coxe 1 Mr Stuart is the late Lord Bute's grandson and the Duke of Ancaster's nephew. He could get recommendations from his friends, but (like myself) is on a concealed march till he is forced to draw. "If anything in my power can atone for this trouble, name it. I believe you cannot. I have moved heaven and earth to send you a buck and some birds, but it won't do till the cold weather. With great respect, HENRY BROUGHAM." "ON BOARD THE PRIVATEER, ULLAPOOL, Sept. 1, 1799. " MY DEAR SIR, — You are, I daresay, not a little surprised to receive another letter still from me. My excuses for this offence are now so stale that I shan't any longer trouble you with repeating them ; but, worse than all this, my epistles have been so frequent to you that I am really at a loss to remember where my last was addressed from, and in consequence am in some danger of plaguing you with repetitions. Taking it, however, for granted that you left me under weigh or really so far from Lewis, I proceed to inform you that the captain accuses my friend Stuart and myself of having forced him to sea in a storm against the opinion of every man in the vessel. In truth we were now grown impatient enough on every account at our various and many delays, so I believe our remonstrances had some weight with the TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. Ill after-cabin council — i.e.,the captain and his mates. We then put in to the Birken [Orkney?] Isles, and failing to make anchorage from the running of ebb tide, we stood out again and got north of the Pentland Firth, into the much- wish ed-f or North Sea itself. In the dead of night we were in a storm indeed. The sailors all expecting to see Dairt in half a shake, and the captain (who was twenty years a North Sea smuggler and has been twelve times and a half wrecked) cry- ing, ' I don't know what to do ! As damned a tool this ship as ever dipp'd her gob in salt brine since Adam wrought at hemp-picking in Chatham dock- yard — d n his soul ! ' So he applied to the Doctor, as the oldest man on board, for his advice — but, I before told you, a terrible muck (coward) ; and he voted for instantly making nearest port. We were still keeping to our course if possible, and if she would not lie to it, we wished to run through the Pentland — anything, in short, rather than turn. But the rest were of a different opinion, and the helm was tried. Happily she did not miss her stays, but obeyed rudder, and with a huge grin and volley of oaths the word was given. Thither we came, and here we have been again at the flesh-pots and shoot- ing and drinking. Before departing, I beg to trouble you with this request, ' that any letters not yet sent for me, or any which you may procure previous to the next Baltic or Elsinore ships, may be sent in a small parcel to Ramsay and Williamson's at Leith, where they will be called for by a northern friend of 112 TOUR IX THE WESTERN ISLES. ours, master of a Indtic ship, and kept ly our agent in Elsinore for its till -we arrive. Tins you may tell also to our friends;' and any obtained after that opportunity sails, may be sent per post to Copenhagen, not to Druiitheim, by the next slaps — I mean those that sail about the 20th of September. Your favours are so numerous, and my requests so well proportioned to them, that I am almost ashamed to say that a re- cr.imncndation from Sir TF. Forbes to Mr Reibercj at Copenhagen, would be worth its weight in gold to us all. You might, I think, procure this through the liussells (to whom my love, as to all yours) without letting my request be known. Again excuse brevity, troublesomeness, &c. &c. HENRY BROUGHAM." The voyage to Iceland being thus abandoned, Stuart and I left the rest of our party in Scotland, and crossed over to the east coast, arriving there in time for the Baltic autumn fleet. After a week's voyage- with fine weather, except a gale in the Cattegat, on a bad lee-shore, when the wind, contrary to all expectation, shifted and saved us, we arrived at Elsinore on the I>0th of September. AVe passed about a week at Copenhagen, where we saw a good deal of Mr Merry, the Charge d 'Affaires in Lord Jlobcrt Fitzgerald's absence, and spent the early part of the winter at Stockholm. I kept a journal of this lour, which is as follows. CHAPTER III. Ftsit to Jienmarfe atft Scanfcina&ia* JOURNAL OF VISIT TO DENMARK AND SCANDINAVIA — LANDING AT ELSINORE — TRAVELLING IN DENMARK — COPENHAGEN — OBJECTS OF INTEREST — COLLEGE LIBRARY — PALACE — THE TOWN AND THE PEOPLE THE THEATRE — THE EXCHANGE — THE CONSTI- TUTION OF DENMARK — SOCIAL CONVENTIONALISM — ADMINIS- TRATION OF JUSTICE — KING CHRISTIAN AND HIS COURT JOURNEY TO HELSINGBORG TRAVELLING IN SWEDEN — DANISH AND SWEDISH PEASANTRY COMPARED — SCENERY — ADVENTURES STOCKHOLM — ARCHITECTURE — PUBLIC PLACES — JEALOUSY OF FOREIGNERS — SCIENCE AND LETTERS — SITTING OF THE ACADEMY OF SCIENCES — SWEDISH ARTISTS AND THEIR WORKS — SOCIAL CONDITION — IMMORALITY AND CRIME GUSTAVUS III. AND GUS- TAVUS IV. — PERSONAL ANECDOTES OF ROYALTY — RUSSIAN AND FRENCH INFLUENCE, AND JEALOUSY OF BRITAIN — THE ARMY — REVENUE — TRADE AND CURRENCY LANGUAGE — POLICE — RE- LIGION— A CLAIRVOYANT — DEPARTURE FROM STOCKHOLM TO UPSALA — COUNTRY PALACE OF GUSTAVUS III. — RURAL AFFAIRS — REINDEER — WILD ANIMALS RUNIC ANTIQUITIES — UPSALA CATHEDRAL — UNIVERSITY — CASTLE — JOURNEY CONTINUED TO- WARDS NORWAY — VISIT BY LANTERN-LIGHT TO THE FALLS OF TROLLHATTEN — GOTEBORG OR GOTTENBORG SCOTS RESIDENTS — A GHOST STORY — WINTER TRAVELLING THE FROZEN FIORDS — SLEDGING GLIMPSES OF SOCIAL LIFE IN FREDERIKSHALD PRIVATE THEATRICALS — VOYAGE HOME — NARROW ESCAPE FROM SHIPWRECK. VOL. I. H 114 VISIT TO DENMARK |>799- JOUEXAL. 1799. — Sej)t. 24?/i to the 30th. — We had a slow, Imt agreeable enough passage of a week. The weather was bad, particularly in the Cattegat, where we were very near a bad lee-shore with a gale : the wind shifting, almost contrary to expectation, saved us ; and after beating off and on, we made the straits of the Sound early on Monday the 30th. At 9 o'clock A.M. we saw the coasts on both sides of the Sound — the Danish seemed finely wooded to the very shore, on which several houses were scattered. At some distance we saw the town and castle of Helsingor, Elsingor, or Elsingoer, or Elsinore, or ELsineur, or Elsinoor — for it is spelt in each of these different ways. On the opposite side is Helsingborg, a Swedish town ; and in sailing up to anchorage we observed on the Danish coast a neat white house, well situated among the woods, and surrounded by gardens and terraces, apparently in the English taste. The captain called it Matilda's Palace, and at Elsinore we found it was called by Englishmen Hamlet's Palace. It is said that the murder happened in the garden. It is now occupied by a ranger of the parks. Sept. 30. — After having a salute for our convoy from the fort, we anchored, and dressed to go ashore. In the roads there were a vast number of ships, and several Danish men-of-war; yet we were told that the anchorage is often infinitely more crowded. No less than five boats came off to us, each asking less JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 115 than the former one ; so that from nine dollars their demands sunk to three. We remarked also the sin- gular similarity that seemed to prevail among the natives. I don't think that I could easily have dis- tinguished one face from another. No sooner had we landed than we found ourselves surrounded by a mob of merchants' clerks, who lay in wait for the ship, and tried to entrap each with the cry of " My dear friend, do you clear with us ? " Our captain went to Howden's, and we accompanied him, delivering our letters from Hutchins. We then went to a toler- ably good inn, kept by a man who was educated at Musslebro! After an indifferent dinner, but good claret, we paid our captain the enormous sum of twenty guineas for our passage, to which we added one for the men. Mr Howden called before dinner and behaved very civilly. We drank tea with him, and went to the subscription rooms, which are large and commodious. A hundred gentlemen, chiefly merchants, pay ten dollars per annum, and have the liberty of introduc- ing strangers. After lounging in these rooms, seeing the gardens by candle-light, and looking at some billiard-play performed by English sea-officers, we were taken by Howden and his nephew, nicknamed " Caliban," to the subscription news-rooms, where we met a company of British worthies, and had a slang- ish conversation, adapted to the humour of the society. Howden then turned to us, and presented a dreadful account of Paul's customs about dress, pass- Il6 VISIT TO DENMARK [i799- ports, and the knout. Everything showed us that this brute of a tyrant and tyrant of brutes wishes to keep his savage empire in a state of closeness and insularity as inaccessible as that of China. Oct. 1. — -After sleeping comfortably on English beds, we had coffee in our rooms, and went out to HowdenX whose civilities in procuring us letters to Copenhagen, and letting us draw for fifty pounds, and introducing us to Fenwick, the English consul, a gentlemanly and obliging young man, pleased us much. We found all the merchants croaking over the hardness of the times — the failures in Hamburg —the impossibility of selling their bills — sugars sell- ing with difficulty at sixty per cent under prime cost, and the other consequences of the Dutch expedi- tion. Mr Howden had to lament £700 worth of bills lying dead at Hamburg, besides being obliged to pay specie to Government from clearances. After giving orders to a Scotch tailor, we set off at twelve for Copenhagen in a stulil wagen, or oblong cart, with a couple of seats across, on springs, and one for the driver in front. The horses are lar^e o and strong : two easily drew us and our lu^o-a^e all O J OO o the way. The road is indeed excellent — well raised, even, and smooth. We also took with us for half the way a ship's captain, at Howden's recommenda- tion ; and for the rest of it, a younij man, who be^o'ed ' •/ O OO our permission. The day was damp, and rainy at intervals. The face of the country is delightful — disposed in ridges and flats, with clumps of fine trees, JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. II/ and some very thick woods. The cottages are situated in the most romantic spots imaginable ; and were it not for the appearance of the houses, whose roofs are very upright and in several planes, and whose walls are studded with windows, one might suppose himself in the southern parts of England. The dress of the peasants is grotesque, and varies every league. It consists in general of a long wide doublet, usually red and laced ; a waistcoat down to the knees, and leather breeches. The coat and vest are covered with a profusion of silver buttons, which constitute, in some measure, the peasant's wealth. We saw some ploughing in very broad ridges — the plough like the common English ones, only that some had two large wheels in front. The ground seemed rich and soft, and we saw some fields of grass, heavily manured, which in England would not be touched. The milestones are large stone obelisks at every quarter of a mile — that is, at every English mile. On the top part is a large crown, with the cipher of the king in whose reign it was raised, and with several ornaments. The business part of it — namely, the number, seems scarce attended to. We passed several gentlemen's houses, not remarkable, and also some manufactories, particularly a cotton-mill three stories high, with seven windows in a row, and a reservoir behind. We saw no river, few streams, and, of course, many windmills. The road, which scarcely makes any turn, runs beautifully through thick woods, llS VISIT TO DENMARK [>799- and sometimes through a variety of moorish and wild ground, in which, we saw one or two deer. The game-laws are very strict, and almost all the country is monopolised by the Crown. We arrived at Hir- scholm at three o'clock, and as we were past the hour of dinner, we could only get cold things to eat. We had very good light Khenish, which only cost three marks and a half. The landlord talked good French, and the inn was really a very good one. The village is neatly scattered among trees and water. Near it we passed the palace — a fine building, with coppice and gardens laid out by Queen Matilda, in the Eng- lish taste. Near this lives Count Horn, the accom- plice of Ankers troem : he is quite cut at Copenhagen, and tried in vain to get into society at Elsinore. As we approached Copenhagen, the country got more open. About four miles from it, we passed the palace and fine gardens of Prince Carl. After a heavy rain, came in sight of the town. Saw the palace on the right ; at the gates underwent a most strict examination of our ba^o-ao-e. The road comes Oo O to a point before arriving at the gate, where the different avenues break off, each planted with rows of trees. The ramparts are large, but out of repair. Coming to Roach's Hotel, in the Great Place, were refused admittance. Same at Lubell's and Mil- ler's ; with a laquais de place s assistance got into Leoft's. All the people here ignorant of every lan- guage but their own, except a child who had been born in London. The landlady being at the play, ,ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 119 we could get no supper till she came home ; and then it was very bad. Get* 2. — Walked with our laquais de place to pay visits, having sent our letters. Only found Brown at home, but overwhelmed with business. Dined at Kouch's. Mr Merry, the Charge d' Affaires, in Lord Eobert Fitzgerald's absence, called in the evening, also Howden, who was croaking like an old frog, and read more Hamburg failures from his note-book ; but he joined in Merry's tune of its being 30 much the better, as it must hurt the enemy. Oct. 3. — Dined at LubelTs. Mitchell, the English consul in Norway, was there — a violent Ministerialist, and great advocate for the late King of Sweden, of whom he talked much. Said he was in a coffee- house in Stockholm at the time of the revolution. Oct. 4. — Saw Thorkelin, who behaved in a very easy and agreeable manner to us, and showed us every civility, taking us about to the college and library. He is keeper of the archives, which he showed us all over, and told me, at the same time, to conceal it, as I was the first foreigner who had seen them/"" There is a vast collection of treaties, well arranged and preserved : the principal ones which I looked over were those with Cromwell in 1651— Elizabeth — Joseph II. — Peter the Great ; the Dan- * Grim Jonnson Thorkelin, a celebrated Scandinavian archaeologist, a native of Iceland. At the period of the visit he was well known in society in Britain, having spent several years in this country pursuing researches into the connection between the Scandinavian nations and the British Islands. 120 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. ish Corpus Juris, beautifully written in 1681 ; the Danish Magna Charta in forty articles, and on ten folio pages, dated 4th November 1665 ; the famous Act of Cession, dated January same year, carefully wrapt up, wrote on two pages folio, with signatures on above twelve — sixty names and seals on each page, being the tiers 6tat. To the charter is fixed a superb gold seal. Thorkelin, on our putting several ques- tions to him, told me that we must not mention what he said, if we published our journals, and added that Coxe's imprudence had made every one cautious of speaking to strangers, and even of receiving them.* Oct. 4. — The town stands on a flat upon the sea, which intersects it in several places, and has almost everywhere a stagnant and dirty appearance. The streets are in general narrow but even, and the houses high. The roofs being perpendicular, and in several planes, give them an ugly look. The single buildings, such as inns, offices, and chateaus, are very large and handsome, though built without any form except the oblong, and abounding too much in win- dows. The best part of the town is the Great Place, or market, in which is the theatre, opera-house, guard-house, and two very fine inns. But the finest building of course is the palace, which stands in another part of the city on a port of the sea. This, however, like the rest of the town, has suffered from the fire of 1795, of which one finds traces in every * In allusion to « Travels into Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark/ by Archdeacon Coxe. 'JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 121 part. The streets are filled with rubbish. Every other house is building, and scaffolding is as common as walls. The consequence of this has been that few have sufficient capital to build. Lodging is extremely scarce. Mr Merry could find none at first by any means, and even yet has got very miserable rooms in which he is not settled. There are several table d'hdtes, but only two of any reputation. Bouch's we found to be a mere scramble, and frequented by indifferent people. Lubell's is more select and regular, being in the nature of a private dinner, at which the landlord and his family appear ; but the eating was bad. There is also a club, or private society of merchants and others, which we were not present at. The palace is a noble building, though at present nothing but the walls remain in the quadrangle ; the inside is burnt or pulled down in consequence of the fire, which seemed to have attacked one side chiefly, as there the freestone facing is completely torn off from the brick of which the walls are built. The great quadrangle is five stories high (including the small ones between), and twenty-five windows in front. On each side is a circular sweep, and each sweep terminates in a circular wing, the whole ending in a noble gateway to which an elegant bridge and street leads. The wings or sweeps have ninety windows in the row ! The ornaments, which in general remain entire, are handsome. The style of architecture mixed — chiefly Ionic. In the rooms of the quadrangle poor families live, having built huts 122 VISIT TO DENMARK [>799- against the walls, and two of the front windows of the palace are filled up with the casement windows of these houses. In the front is a Latin inscription, bearing that the palace was built by Christian VI., in seven years, ending 1740. The climate of Copenhagen is unhealthy. No one is to be seen with a decent set of teeth or good eyes, — either quite rotten or " sesquipedales." The people are fair and watery-looking. The streets uncommonly dirty; the mud has a putrid smell. The winters are so severe sometimes that Lord R Fitzgerald told Mr Merry he has heard them firing at deserters running across the ice to Sweden. The stoves in the rooms are iron, and not only look gloomy, but exhale a most odious smell, and are besides unwholesome. The dis- eases most frequent are gout and rheumatism, owing to the extreme dampness which prevails, except during frost. The only public amusement here is a play three times a- week. The theatre is about the size of old Drury — heavy, but rather grand. The ornaments are gilt upon an olive ground, which is the prevailing colour. The house is dark, the light being all thrown upon the stage during the performance. There are only twenty lamps ; eight more are let down from the roof over the pit between the acts. The band is good — about thirty performers. The acting appeared good and chaste. The people seemed critically in- clined. They were in morning dresses, and sat as stiff as pokers: no flirtation nor gallantry. The play /ET. .22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 123 was, " She Stoops to Conquer ; " and Tony Lumpkin was well done, though the song was omitted. The scenery was bad, but a ballet was given at the end, with some good dancing, and the dresses would have put the Bishop of Durham into fits. The Exchange is an old building in the mixed Gothic style. The inside is filled with shops, through which are walks, and a reservoir at one end. Auctions are held in the corners. It was always crowded, and we saw in it several Polish Jews. The University is an old and shabby quadrangle. We were present at an examination of the students, who were very mean-looking, and seemed to be ques- tioned by the master, who sat in his chair, like boys at school. There are eighteen professors, the richest of whom have from 1500 to 3000 rix-dollars a-year. The Royal Library is a noble institution. It con- tains about 25,000 volumes, and is unlimited for new purchases : it is kept in a fine suite of apart- ments in a wing of the palace. Two of these are called " Bibliotheca Septentrionalis." There is a public reading - room, and every one may take home books with him. We looked over several of these, and found all sorts of works, some remarkably splendid. There is also a Eoyal Museum, but this we did not see. The style of society was pronounced by Merry to be insufferable; and though we found reason to believe that he had exaggerated a little (from the nature of his situation), yet so dull is the place that the 124 VISIT TO DENMARK 0799- Russian General, Knox, who passed through lately on his way to Holland, stayed only three days in Copen- hagen, and a month at Elsinore. The visiting is confined to \vintcr : in summer the merchants go to the country houses and boxes, and even in winter the parties are said to be dull : the Court is uncommonly so. At present the only Ministers are the Russian, French, Dutch, and Swedish, all of whom live ex- ceedingly private. The government of Denmark is absolute, as every one knows. The Act of 1645, which made the Crown elective, was abolished, and in 1665 the Crown was made hereditary, and unlimited in power. The former Act being abolished, Dr Thorkelin mentioned to me that no mention is made in it of the comparison with the government of our State ; but I suspect he mis- understood my question. It has, indeed, every ap- pearance of a despotic government. There are no states acknowledged, no control on the king's power. He names the privy council, who do all in his name. He levies taxes, makes peace and war, publishes edicts, alters, annuls, and makes laws. The titles are Graf, or Count, and Baron. But Court employments or other great offices conferred by the Crown consti- tute the great and almost the only difference of rank and station. These offices, it is true, are only given to such as are noble ; but then letters of nobility are easily obtained. Thus the merchants who have made money become noble, and hold places. Mr Selby is in this way a Baron, and Mr de Konig is besides a *ST. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 125 Councillor of State. The mercantile influence is very extensive, though Merry seemed to attribute a good deal more to it than was due. Certainly a Govern- ment so much in want of money must depend much on the moneyed men ; but how far these have a direct influence is another matter. However, Mr Merry mentioned a circumstance which, if true, must prove that influence to be very great indeed. He said " that he was astonished at finding so many people em- ployed secretly in trade ; that every day he made dis- coveries of this kind ; and he scrupled not to affirm that almost everybody in Copenhagen was more or less concerned in commerce. The ostensible mer- chants who have the trade in their hands are few in number, and have the ear of the Court/' Mr Otto, on the other hand, seemed to laugh at Mr Merry for ascribing by his behaviour so much to his (Mr Otto's) brethren : he said that Merry was constantly running up and down, and crying, " Why don't you join the coalition ? " All these merchants are enemies to the present war — talk without scruple against England — and are peculiarly irritated by the Dutch expedition. Nothing can make them join but our success in Hol- land : while matters are doubtful, they keep on the safe side, and remain as they are. The Government is very poor. Last spring, when Hamburg was threatened, four frigates were equipped for the de- fence of Altona and Holstein. A fuss was made about a tax for this. The impost on land had been raised formerly, and was changed. Merry did not know 126 VISIT TO DENMARK [i799- exactly how it was raised; but, after all, it did not pro- duce £200,000. This lie finds from documents among the ambassador's papers. Notwithstanding the long peace which the country has enjoyed, yet there is little specie in it ; what one sees is miserably adul- terated with copper ; but, except some small money, nearly all the currency is paper. The want of states and other causes must render the Crown, in case of war, utterly dependent either on the rich merchants or foreign subsidies. The adminis- tration of this Government, execrable as is its theory, is in practice mild and gentle. Every liberty of speech and writing is practised, to a degree of licen- tiousness unknown in England, or known only to be severely punished. Of this the natives seem perfectly conscious, and laugh at English liberty, which they call a mere name. Two days before we were there, an instance of the Crown's power occurred. The press had grown so scandalously licentious, and even libel- lous, that an edict was published September 28th. This was, however, occasioned (in reality) by an advertisement appearing from a set of Jacobins, rather of the lower kind, who used to frequent Grouvelle's (the French Minister's) house. It proposed that a literary society was to be formed, which was known to have politics in view. Paul instantly withdrew his envoy, and forbade in the strictest way all com- munication between the two countries. The edict was instantly drawn up and hurried through the Council, then sent off by Baron Blum to St Petersburg. It sets forth in a long preamble the evils of licen- 4LT. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 127 tiousness, prohibits under the highest penalties expres- sion against government or monarchy in general, and in fact destroys at once the liberty of speech and writ- ing ; but as every one knows that it is done to serve an end, people openly turn up their noses at it. Mean- time a prosecution has been entered into against the editor of an obnoxious journal, but he is expected to get off, or at most to pay a trifling fine. The criminal jurisprudence is mild in the extreme. There are, indeed, no juries, but the judges proceed with the greatest caution and inquire into the circum- stances in the minutest manner possible. The sentence is not valid till ratified by the king, who cannot make it more severe. Sedition is punished by imprison- ment or a gentle fine. Murder and treason only are capital: the former happens not once in two years; the latter not since the time of Struensee, who was uni- versally esteemed the victim of a party, and all the world sided with Matilda. For other offences, the punishment is confinement with labour, and wearing chains. One sees several of these half-prisoners walk- ing about in Copenhagen. The Danes think it does good in the way of example, a thing which admits of doubt in this case. There are two courts of justice: one civil, called the Under Court, which is private, and does all busi- ness in writing; the other is open, and takes cog- nisance of criminals. The taxes are well levied, and easily for the people ; they amount to 1 J million a- year, which does not come to more than Is. in £20 at a medium, chiefly on consumption. 128 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. The army is beyond proportion : they call it about 70,000, but I believe the Government would find it difficult to produce a disposable force of 30,000. The pay is two skellings and a half per day, but the soldiers work for themselves, and have two reviews a-year. They are no terror to the people, who indeed seem to care little either for the army or noblesse. The fleet consists of about 40 sail of the line, which lie in a very convenient dock in Copenhagen; but we did not go to see them. The King of Denmark is an idiot. Dr Thorkelin, however, talked mysteriously on the subject, and seemed to think that the ruling party kept his Ma- jesty down by this accusation. Mr Merry said that ambassadors, etc., have to be drilled, as it were, before- hand, when they go into his presence, in case of his exposing himself. Lord Eobert Fitzgerald used fre- quently to play at cards with him, arid said he used to run out of the room suddenly and without cause. If any one answered him he was apt to be outrageous, sometimes spit in people's faces and boxed their ears. His own family never answered him. Mr Otto told me an odd anecdote of him. A favourite of his had been removed by the influence of the Court, on which there was sent him, to light his fire, a common porter ; him lie created a Lord of the Bedchamber, and the man had to get a considerable pension to induce him to retire ! Mrs Howden saw him one day come to the garden wall, near the palace. He leaped over ; but being told there was a gate near, he leaped back again JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 129 and entered by it ! In short, he is humoured in every- thing, and appears to be in truth an idiot. In the mean time the Queen-Dowager and Crown Prince manage everything. Count Schonneny, the Finance Minister, is said to be the most powerful of the Ministry ; but Selby (at Stockholm) told me that BernstofF (the son of the great Minister), who is only thirty, and a very able man, is in great influence. I rather believe, however, that he is only the organ of the Council. Indeed it matters not what he is at present, as the Crown Prince is to all intents and pur- poses Prime Minister. The King signs his name and appears at Court ; he is, however, a mere puppet. The Prince's brother is not in favour, and, I understand, does not appear at Court. The ambassador Grouvelle (who read the sentence to Louis XVI.) lives very retired."* I see, however, that he is popular among the prevailing powers, the merchants. I have heard young Selby excuse him by making him say that "if people knew all the circumstances they would not blame him so much." The Dutch Minister also is popular. Lord Eobert Fitzgerald is violent against both, and withdrew his name from the society at Kouch's. "When Grouvelle came he handsomely retired ; but as the others did not, the matter remains. Both the French and Dutch Ministers were received at the society with open arms. * Grouvelle, frequently mentioned in the ' Moniteur* as " litterateur et diplomate," was sent as ambassador from the Eepublic to Denmark in 1713. VOL. I. I I3Q VISIT TO DENMARK [i799- "We were told at Elsinore that people were of late grown much less violent on politics, merely from being tired of talking so much on the subject. Lord Eobert Fitzgerald is apparently on conge; but his house and effects being sold, and Mr Merry being settled here as Consul - General and Charge d' Affaires, he is now known to have retired for good till elsewhere provided for. He had been three years here, and his departure was supposed to be owing to a publication in the English papers relative to the Danish East India Company. It is evident that he was not used in the best manner possible at Copen- hagen. Mr Merry calls the literary men here " a set of the greatest Jacobins on the face of the earth." Upon the whole, it appears that the mercantile government of Denmark is afraid of joining the coalition on two accounts : first, because its com- merce is sure of suffering in the first instance ; and, secondly, because the consequence must be an imme- diate increase of expense, which in its present situa- tion it could not meet. What service it could render the common cause, even though it could be induced to take a side, I cannot conceive. It must be sub- sidised by England for very indifferent troops, and for any assistance, which, in the present state of men's minds in Denmark, could not be hearty. At the same time the country seems quite in the hands of Eussia and of England, so that the strictest neutrality is necessary.* * See Appendix XIV. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 131 Oct. 5. — After writing letters and cursing the fleecing habits of this place, we set off to Elsinore in a decent covered carriage. Saw nothing worth notice on our way, except the corpse of a woman who had been drowned ; it lay on the roadside, without attracting the least attention. After stopping for coffee at Hirschholm, got to Elsinore at ten, the night being very fine and starry, and went to the club, where we found the natives uncommon civil. Received more attention from Mr Howden. Oct. 6. — Early in the morning we got ready — by docking (of course) our tailor's bill — breakfasted with Mrs Howden, who resembles much the Queen of Sweden. The quay as usual, for the Elsinorers keep no Sabbath. Had a pleasant passage to Helsing- borg, a Danish mile over. It is a neat enough town, airily situated and built wide. The inn is very bad : a villanous landlord, who had been two years at Sunderland. He has waggons of all sorts for sale, as people on leaving Sweden generally sell their travel- ling carriage : for these he asks the most extravagant prices, and I believe is generally sure of selling you, as people are not a little in his hands. For a very shabby uncovered one we paid thirty rix-dollars, and after having it covered, could only sell it at Stock- holm for ten ! Our stay here was spent in running up and down after carriages and horses, arid specie — for which we paid a premium of nearly five per cent. Near Helsingborg are the springs of mineral water to which the Swedes resort every summer from Stock- 132 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. holm, and the town is said at this time to be very gay. After a bad dinner and much imposition, we set out. The road was good and smooth, so we drove pleasantly enough with one horse, — the country gene- rally flat, though rising here and there ; a little cul- tivated. Saw some hay in stacks, but it seemed very indifferent. Some wood, however, was well scattered over the country ; the rest appeared very marshy and damp. We met many carts of the peasants in differ- ent forms, all as simple as can be imagined, carrying casks, tubs, and boxes of wood and iron, made up the country. They were driven by peasants who put us in mind of gypsies. Many of the carts were drawn by oxen, and some by cows. We got to Astorp after a chilly drive. It is a small hamlet of wood, pleasantly enough situated; indeed all the Swedish hamlets are romantic in the extreme. We were struck by the great difference between the peasantry here and in the places near to Denmark. We had tea, and despatched the forebote, or courrier en avant, carrying our baggage, to travel all night, after having the sedel, a paper of instruc- tions, written by a learned peasant, the only one in the parish. Had Swedish beds — that is, lay between two. Oct. 7. — Got off between five and six to follow the forebote. The country as before — the roads also good. Met scores of natives, and cars of iron, wood boxes, &c. Saw some parties at breakfast on the road. Crossed a shallow lake, as all in this place are : the car MT. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 133 drove into a large flat boat without our dismounting. Came to a more wild and rough country — also more woody — all natural. The houses are all wooden, the fires also. They are open, and set in a wide chimney at the corner of the room ; a damper is let down as soon as the room is sufficiently warm. They use pine laths for candles, holding the light downwards. Candles they also have, but exceeding small, and very bad. We went pleasantly on, sometimes taking two horses. The road winds through a variety of woods, some of them very thick. The trees are of different sorts, some firs ; but the finest and most plentiful are oaks and beech, besides birch, aspen, nut, and alder. "We saw also many heathberries, some cranberries, and a vast abundance of sloes ; also Osmunda regalis. The cattle were chiefly pigs, running in the woods, and very lean, of course : cows and horses small, but fleet. We went on very quick, only stopping at the inns to get a crust of bread or an apple. At Markavid met a student of Lund (in Scania) who spoke German and French. After Markavid, saw many lakes among thick woods : these were universally very shallow, from the gentle slope of their sides and their general appearance. They had many islands, also wooded. We met several travellers. They rode, wrapped in surtouts, in open carriages holding one (sometimes two), driven by servant or self, and always smoking. At Travyd we got late. The driver had stopped to tie his spare horse to a tree before getting in sight of 134 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. the next inn, a trick often played to save taking another spare horse next stage. Found the people here very civil, and got some sour milk and cold potatoes. The night cold and a little rainy. Rode by a pretty large river to Hamnade, where by mistake the forebote had stopped, so we had to stop here. A miserable place. Coffee got, after much surprise at first, and honey for sweeting. Slept in one wretched bed, taking the precaution of showing pistols, and we afterwards found this was not unnecessary. On paying next morning the man made a charge for water ! Oct. 8. — A very wet day, at times raining very hard. The road lay over an open green turf all the first stage, and near the river. At Lingby found a Swedish servant who spoke good English. We break- fasted on blood-puddings, eggs, and milk. Next stage, two miles (Swedish), at a foot's pace, owing to the sulkiness of the driver : pouring the whole time, and no wood to shelter us, so got completely wet. Coasted a very large lake for two miles and a half without coming to the end of it. In the middle several islets ; one large, with wood and houses on it. The houses in this part of the country are very neat both outside and inside, and intermixed every now and then with church spires, constructed in a most fan- tastical manner of wooden billets representing tiles, which gave the landscape a very singular and romantic appearance. Passed what appeared to be a large shallow lake, with several houses scattered over it; JET.. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 135 but it proved to be only the overflowing of a river which runs through this valley. At Waramow found a good enough inn, compared to what we had been used to of late. Though it was now late, yet we resolved to go on. The road lay through impenetrable forests, and was so bad we could scarcely crawl along : it was perfectly dark, and we got shook to pieces, yet I slept through the greater part. From the next post we took the way by a shorter cut through a wood into the great road, which also lay the whole of the way through forests of pine, broken only here and there by an acre of land cleared, with a cottage on it. At midnight we came to a green break in the, wood where the inn of Skylingaryd stands. It was snug and most agreeable to us : we had some potatoes, milk, and ham, with our own tea, a couple of good beds, and a fire, so that I feel myself rather comfort- able while writing this, though I have more than half the journey before me ; and so I shall proceed to note down a few observations on the country through which we have passed, the wildest and most unfrequented in the south of Sweden. The manners of the natives are the same nearly through this quarter — I mean through Skamaand and the greater part of Smaland, towards Jonkopyichage. 1. The difference is striking between Elsinore and Helsingborg, the opposite side of the Sound. The peasantry, from the moment you enter Sweden, have a much finer appearance than the Danes. Their countenances more healthy, and without that watery 136 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. white look which is so disgusting in Denmark. Neither have they that uniformity so remarkable among the Danes. They are much more agreeable in their manners, and, with the exception of the inn- keepers and people concerned on the roads, more honest. 2. Their dress is plain ; none of those absurd or- naments before described are to be seen here. Their clothes are large and comfortable — of a warm wool- len in summer, and sheepskin in winter. In Scania (province on the southern coast) we observed they were chiefly white ; after that we came among blue : the poorest boys who drove us had good clothing, and stockings and shoes. At work they use wooden shoes, but we saw them always with leather when unem- ployed. 3. Their houses are all good and clean — magnificent compared to those of the English peasantry, and much better than the Danish. They are built of logs, with white plastered chimneys and windows. They are generally painted red, and either thatched or covered with timber planks ; and to preserve them from wet, they are raised on four small pillars of stone, some- times of wood; sometimes, in the better sort, a dwarf wall is built a few feet up. Almost every house, if it has offices, has a large maypole; in many places parts of the flowers remain, and often a weather-index is placed at the top. The fires (of wood) are lit in a large stone chimney, open- ing into the room, in the corner. The damper is JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 137 generally a movable plank, tied to a string which is pulled and fixed to a nail by the chimney, and as soon as the fire is half burnt out it is let down. In many houses the damper is fixed on a pole, which moves round on a prop between two uprights, and is pulled up or let down by another pole. All this is on the outside, and has a singular appearance enough. The consequences of letting down the damper too soon are often dangerous, both in these houses and O ' the ones heated by stoves. 4. The food of the peasants is chiefly a soup of gruel made of meal, beans, peas, and turnips chopped small ; to this meat is sometimes added. But oftener their food is hog puddings, either made of the blood or of meat and the inside, like a haggis. They don't seem to feed so much on the flesh, at least the pea- sants and servants ; they eat a great deal of cold boiled potatoes and boiled milk. Their bread is of rye and barley, made either in hard cakes or in thin flat loaves, with a hole in the middle for hanging them up. They are baked twice a-year, but keep quite well, and the beams in the roof of the houses are studded with them ; they have them also thick, but not for keeping. They preserve blueberries and cranberries for sauce, and stew apples and pears. Their meal is very good, and they use it for porridge. They make a drink of warm milk, of which they are very fond ; and the better people use beer and eggs. Their brand- wein is extremely fiery, and resembles gin or whisky ; but they can make it very good, and season it with 138 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. seeds ; this the better sort of people drink in Stock- holm. On the whole, the peasantry live more com- fortably in every respect than in England. 5. They all work in iron and wood ; in the former clumsily enough, in the latter very neatly : they use the adze for everything. They make neat boxes, and vats of a large size, hooped and tipped with iron. These we met in whole caravans on the road, and the boxes often filled with cheeses, all going to fair and market. 6. The number of lakes is very striking, but still more so farther to the north. We saw few rocks the first two days, but the third we found great blocks here and there among the woods. The coun- try was in general flat during all these days, and seems favourable to inland navigation. 7. The roads are excellent ; they are made of gravel, and kept up by the proprietors through whose ground they run. Everywhere we saw stuck up by the road- side something written, which we afterwards found to be the name of the peasants or proprietors who were bound to keep that part of the road in repair ; so that the governor or road-surveyor can challenge the faulty person at any time. The consequence of the goodness of the roads is, that the least roughness or steepness, which in England would be disregarded, is here deemed impassable, and the least rising of ground is laboured up as if it were a steep hill. The horses are very tractable and easily driven : the pea- sants drive very skilfully, but crawl up the least &r. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 139 rising, and then go down at full gallop as soon as they reach the top. 8. The peasants are obliged to find horses, and both they and the innkeepers are under the strictest nom- inal discipline. If a holcar (man who gives the horses) asks drink-money, he is to receive so many lashes ; if an innkeeper imposes on the journey, he is to get lashes ; more for the next, and, for the third offence, he is to be sent a slave to a fortress. Like all severe regulations, these are never enforced. Yet there is a book printed which has these regulations at the be- ginning, and is distributed to every inn, with blanks for the name of the passenger, the date, hour of his arrival and departure, number of horses, where from and whither going, also for his complaints against the people, and theirs against him. Once a-month the surveyor examines this ; but we observed that, except in the remote provinces, the people did not seem to care about it. The price is 8 skellings (8 pence) a Swedish mile per horse, of which ten make a degree, or near seven English. They drive, and seldom ride, their horses. 9. In these southern parts we saw chiefly growing rye, barley, beans, and a few peas and oats. They dry these grains in three ways. That which we saw in the south was simple enough : it consisted in pil- ing up the sheaves loose upon long poles stuck through them ; these are scattered round the house or barn, and have a singular enough appearance. Another method is that of placing three sheaves tri- 140 VISIT TO DENMARK [i?99- angularly, leaning against each other at the top ; on this they placed a fourth, tied tight at its upper end, diverging over on the others like a beehive, so that the rain runs off as if it had been thatched. The third is chiefly used in Finland : a barn is built of three floors, with a division in the middle for thrash- ing and laying out the grain ; on the ground floor, on each side, is built a large oven of stone, reaching up a few feet into the second ; it is lighted and made quite hot, whilst the wet grain is laid loosely on the floors. Nobody can enter it for some time after it has cooled, but it dries effectively. All this we heard afterwards. 10. The agriculture of the south, where we have passed, seems backward. The fields slope often to the very middle, and the furrows are so broad that they seem in most cases merely intended for footways or divisions : when they are meant for drains, they are often laid in the most injudicious way possible, slop- ing and slanting across the rising. The plough had one handle, and was in some respects good enough : they chiefly use oxen. 11. The fences of the first kind in Scania are very good, and indeed peculiar to the country. They are composed of every sort of wood easily raised ; turn a corner, or mount and descend again with equal facil- ity. They appear so frail that no beast will attempt climbing over, and are too high to be leaped. They are easily repaired. 12. The milestones are more simple and useful than JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 141 the Danish, and quite conspicuous : a pile of stone roughly hewn and neatly put up, on the top a flat iron plate or stone with the number of miles; but these are confused in one respect, that they don't all count from town to town, but often from mile to mile. Oct. 9. — Our journey had been through forests, only interrupted here and there by pieces of cultivated plain, and occasionally great masses of rock, the inns being generally bad. At one of them we had our pistols broken, and one of them stolen. The excuse was that they had been left out, and that there were many passengers beside ourselves. But as our writ- ing-desks and the rest of our luggage had been in our bedrooms, and we never absent except for half an hour while our supper was getting ready, and while we were in the kitchen to hurry them with it, we therefore never thought of examining desks or luggage, and only found next day (October 10), on our arrival at Jonkoping (a singular-looking town half fortified on the "Wettern Sea), that our desks had been opened and the greater part of the money taken. October 10 was spent in going to the judge to have a proclamation published, offering a reward through all the churches, and in our writing to Copenhagen to have the bills which had been taken stopped ; so we did not leave Jonkoping till eleven at night, Our carriage having now got a canvas covering on it, we resolved to travel all night as soon as a driver could be found ; and in the state of our broken arms, we were comforted by being told that a Jew had been 142 VISIT TO DENMARK [I799- robbed and murdered not far from the town. We concluded it would not be very cold, from having killed a viper on the road as we came. Nevertheless, after a little travelling, it grew bitter cold, and we could only go at a foot-pace, the horses being knocked up. I, of course, fell asleep, and my dreams experi- enced a singular change as soon as the cold and the breeze began. I first thought I was on board a ship in a piercing wind, and tried in vain to get into the cabin below. I awoke for a minute or two, and again was asleep. But now I was walking on the pier of Leith in a cold day. Then I was in rooms where there was no fire, and all the windows open, so that the wind blew through one's very body. I again woke, but soon slumbered again, and then I was near a blacksmith's forge, and going in for the warmth of the fire. The bellows were turned against me and blew cold wind, and then, unable to struggle longer against the elements, I gave up all further attempts to sleep. Oct. 11. — Arrived at the end of the stage, we had to wait till half-past eight, and then proceeded pleasantly enough, the day fine, and the road showing a charming view of the lake — the banks woody, and also very rocky. On this day the country was well cultivated, often indeed very rich ; barley, oats, rye, flax, and young wheat. Some places had been thickly wooded, but cleared now ; the roads remarkably bad. On the road to Uncta met great crowds of market people, some well-dressed, substantial-looking farmers. At Uncta found a crowd all drunken and smoking; /ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 143 the scene was odd enough. We then rode on, in a charming moonlight, through a cultivated country to Esta, where we had to wait till half-past twelve, and then to Molby. During the intervals of sleep, consoled ourselves with the idea of comfort there, as it is the best inn on the road. At three we arrived, after the variety of a horse restive and running away, but met with grievous disappointment, owing to the people absolutely refusing us any grog whatever. The kitchen had a fiery furnace lit for baking. In about an hour and a half a dozen damsels turned out of one bed in the corner. "We found that the house was brimful of a General Quilfelt and suite from Stralsund. After much waiting, got some of our own tea made. The suite were soon all astir to set out about four. Stuart went to one of their beds, while I bullied, and made tea by main force ; then had a long conversation with the General, whom I found very gentlemanly. We despatched a forebote, and ordered our horses at nine to Shrobick, where 'we expected to meet the General again to-morrow night — I ought to say to- night, as I am writing between four and five, just going to bed in one of the aide-de-camp's nests. Oct. 12. — After napping in the nest, scarce cold from the aide-de-camp's carcass, got up at eight, and breakfast being discussed, remarked the odiousness of the hogs here : they perform the office of scaven- gers orally. Stuart was literally hunted by them. Molby is situated on a quick-running river of con- siderable size, on which are a great number of mills ; 144 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799- indeed no room is wasted, the rocks in the river being joined to the bridge over it by a small lateral passage, all of wood, and mills constructed on the same : from this number of mills the town receives its name. We set out to follow our forebote, and travelled slowly (the roads being very heavy) through a flat, cleared, and cultivated country : the remarkable feature of rocks continued in the flattest ground. All this day it struck us much that instead of being abrupt and high masses as before, these had gradually become low and smooth, appearing in single patches in the middle of the fields. Here and. there were seen also some more abrupt and rugged blocks, chiefly among clumps of trees. At the first inn we came to, were kept two hours for horses. Drove on very quick, through fine woods. Passed a plain where a feAV works were thrown up. Supped at a place for exercising artillery and review- ing. Came to Lynkoping, a pretty large town with some good houses in it, and one or two large public buildings. By the merest chance in the world found our luggage, the forebote having stopped. Met a very civil young man (Mr Wenman), who was stopping here in his way to England. He had been there for two years, and spoke English ; was very civil indeed in getting rooms. We set off, leaving Ned to follow with the baggage when horses should be got. The country again fertile. The roads this stage were under repair. Every twenty or thirty yards we saw the country carts unloading, which they do by taking JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 145 off one side. They don't put any bottom, so that the roads are very soft in damp weather. When the road is much broke in woody country they throw in pieces of wood, and sometimes we saw ledges of plank at the side for the water. At Thumble we arrived by moonlight, and had a bad supper of eels, and pig, and milk. Such a devil of a landlady I never saw. Were joined by some travellers to Carlscrona, who rode on with us to our next stage. Ned comiDg up, we continued — I driving for pleasure as the night was charming and mild. Every half English mile, a lake — woods now and then — several gentlemen's seats— -a village or two — passed also a few rivers. At Brink got cattle immediately ; indeed we afterwards learnt that General L. had ordered horses for us all the way as he passed. Continued to Nordkdping. The scenery much the same, though more woody. Passed two very fine chateaux : one, of freestone, with two wings and large offices, belongs to Count Fersen. No gar- dens nor pleasure-grounds apparently ; all rocks, wood, and water. Oct. 13. — At one o'clock in the morning arrived at Nordkdping, the largest town we saw between Copenhagen and Stockholm; indeed it is the third in Sweden in point of importance, and the Gotten- borgers say it is larger than Gottenborg. It stands on both sides of a very rapid and noisy river of con- siderable breadth, over which is a good wooden bridge. The houses are chiefly of wood, and well built, many of them covered with copper. There are a vast number VOL. i. K 146 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. of streets, some of them very long and not very nar- row : a great number of mills on the islands, as at Molby. The horses not being ready we sported the courier, and got on with the last ones to Aby. It began to grow foggy and disagreeable. My drowsi- ness got the better of my driving, which became rather ticklish, and frequently had near played the devil ; however, got safe to Aby about half-past two, but with the loss of our whip in an unlucky nap. I slept on to Shrobek, giving up the whip. Found we had missed the Koll by one hour, he having set off at five. In our way on from the next inn we met the provost-clerk with several funerals, the first we had seen here. The coffin and mortcloth was laid in a peasant's cart, like the gravel, and as we saw two or three coffins at the same funeral, supposed every club to bury on a Sunday in preference. The country is of the same kind to Nykoping, where we arrived at two, hungry — nay, ravenous, having gone all night, since six o'clock in the evening of yesterday, without food. Ate a hearty dinner in a large and good inn, where the rooms were indeed handsome. This town is large and handsome, the streets are wide, and there is a fine exchange or town-house. The country round is very well cultivated. Indeed this is the best pro- vince in Sweden in point of fertility. The agriculture from Molby, or even Jonkoping, improves vastly, though the furrows are still too wide, and not always raised enough. Great quantities of cervises were growing wild these two days, the JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. first I ever saw. Continued to where we stopped to refresh ourselves with milk and the first good beer we had seen. The baron forebotised for us, and was very civil, as indeed we found everybody except the road people. Stuart had a very rough ride from hence in a post- waggon. I went thus too, after trying to get on in the gig. The night was very fine, and the woods and lakes thick as usual. Found the people growing more imposing and insolent as we approached the capital. Oct. 14. — At the two next stations there were no houses inhabited, so we had to wait in the cold for the horses. Sodertelge, the most rascally kennel we ever saw : all accounts agree in this. Left Ned to follow, and went on slowly to Fitja, where we had coffee, and were obliged to wait till eleven for bed. Met with a clergyman and some officers who talked bad French. Were much surprised at the demands of the Sodertelgean for additional hire, but afterwards found the case not peculiar to south Sweden. At Fitja is a very fine piece of water on both sides the road. It is finely wooded down to the very brink, and has islands also wooded : we saw several sails on it. It grows very wide in view, but is still quite land-locked. All the stage between Fitja and Stock- holm is absolutely barren — nothing but woods and rocks ; a house now and then looks like nothing less than the approach to a capital. Stockholm appeared at first like a village scattered among rocks and rising 148 VISIT TO DENMARK [i?99- grounds, but grew somewhat better as we approached. Crossed a bridge to the gate, where we underwent a very close examination of every article. More rocks, only enclosed, and a few oaks scattered. Again thought the town abominable ; but were much struck with the fine show of iron, chiefly bar, at the depot. At two we arrived at our inn, to our infinite joy. This inn is very indifferent, in a bad part of the town, and has a very large table d'hote, where we dined for two or three days till we were introduced to the society. As we went to the play this evening (though we were too late), we saw enough of the quay, palace, buildings, &c., to raise our opinion of Stockholm. It is a large, well-built city, and contains above 80,000 inhabitants. Its situation is strikingly ro- mantic— more so, indeed, than that of any other capital in Europe. It stands upon barren rocks intersected in every quarter by the sea or the Malar Lake, which here runs into an arm of the Baltic with considerable rapidity. The heights around are all rocks covered with firs ; and two sheets of water, part of the Malar above, and part of sea below, are remarkable features in the view. The city of Stockholm, properly so called, stands on an island. The streets in it are for the most part ill built and narrow ; but it contains the chief public buildings, and a very noble quay of hewn stone (granite) of great length, and in such deep water that vessels of any burden may lie touching it. The custom-house stands here, and is a large building of hewn stone, with pillars at the door rather heavy, JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 149 and an inscription purporting that it was built by Gustavus III. The quay continues in this di- rection the whole length of the island ; and then, interrupted by the bridges, it is again continued on both sides in another direction. The Exchange is also in Stockholm. It is an older building ; but large, and with a handsome front. The business place is a spacious room with a wooden floor, and a small apartment off it. There are two busts in the large room — one of the architect, the other of a remarkable citizen. Above-stairs are rooms where subscription balls and public dinners are held. Near the palace is a large old church, with an in- scription bearing it to have been erected where a very high tower formerly stood (Turris stupendae altitu- dinis). It has a very fine organ, and one or two large pieces of sculpture on the monuments. The desk and pulpit are also very handsome. The palace is a superb structure, much larger than the Copen- hagen one. It consists of a quadrangle with wings, and a bow behind. In the empty space, or between the wings to the quay, there has been a sort of garden, forced upon bare rock. It was the work of the regency. Under the stair which leads from the quadrangle out to the gardens is a marble statue of Venus (de Medicis), a good deal damaged, particularly in the fingers of the right hand. There are four staircases, all very splendid, formed of Swedish granite, polished, and in vast massive pillars, ban- nisters, and porticoes. In the interior of the staircase 150 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. there is also porphyry. On the balustrades along the garden, between the wings of the quadrangle, there are some china vases, belonging to Charles XII. , with his cipher on them. There is a court for the parades of the Guards. It was here that the late king addressed them on the morning of the Revolution.'* They are paraded here every morning, and the king frequently attends him- self/ There is in the palace a very fine collection. After two or three rooms full of pictures, chiefly by Flemish masters, and several by Swedes, thrown together in confusion — but some of them very good — you are led into the long room where the drawings are kept. These are indeed extremely valuable. They arc in ten large volumes — in the whole, between three and four thousand — by the first masters of all the schools. There are also several fine pictures in this room — as Venus blinding Cupid, after which the common print (Strange's)t is engraved. There are two gal- leries of statues, brought from Italy by the late king, disposed with great taste and effect. The most remarkable of these is a Sleeping Fawn, placed at the bottom of one of the galleries, and the principal figure in it. It is of very great value. The remark which struck us all on viewing it was the masterly repre- * The Revolution accomplished by Gustavus III. in 1772, when he overthrew the constitution and became absolute. He charmed the soldiers and people by addressing them in their own language. f Sir Robert Strange, a distinguished engraver, born in one of the Orkney Islands in 17^1. /ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 151 sentation of sleep, without any appearance of death. This gallery itself is very fine, having two rows of pillars, between which are statues of the Muses. The Fawn is the only one that fronts in the area. An inscription bears that the building was finished in 1796 by the regent. The library is a spacious room, lined altogether with white wood. It is, however, a contemptible collection, only 35,000 volumes, which were a present from the king, though, from the privacy of the estab- lishment, it appears that he gave very little away in making the gift. In a separate gallery on one side is a collection of manuscripts, and another of classics. Here, too, are the only remarkable books in the whole — viz., the Great Bible, called The Devil's, from a book on magic being affixed to it; the exercises of the late king when a boy — one of these is a little singular, being an ode of Kousseau's violently in praise of freedom, and abusing tyrants in a very pointed way ; and lastly, a beautiful manuscript copy of the evangelists. The rooms of the palace are large and elegantly furnished, containing a variety of superb mirrors, the floors of wood curiously inlaid, the pre- vailing furniture blue velvet and satin with gold, and above all, many fine pictures, chiefly Flemish, though there is a vast crowd of inferior ones. We remarked particularly Venus and Adonis by Vandyke, Mercy by Rubens, and the Judgment by ditto, an old Hermit by Rembrandt, also his mother. In the king's sitting-room there are two statues 152 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. (small), one a Venus, representing a lady actually living at Stockholm ; the other a male statue, both by Sergell. There are also several busts, particularly one of the queen-dowager, by the same. We regretted not having seen the large room called " La Salle des Chevaliers" where the States assemble, and also the private chapel, as both of these are said to be very fine. On the north side of the palace there are two bronze statues of lions, but this part is not finished. In the Place des Nobles stands the Salle des Nobles — a very singular-looking old building, oblong, with a light coach-roof, a statue at each corner, and plain pilasters. There is a title on it, "Palatium equestris ordinis," and a Latin inscription in a line running along the top of the front, . . . Majorum con- siliis atque Sapient ia virtute etfelicibus armis. The staircase in the inside is very broad, above 12 feet, with massive rails and lamps. The large room is about 60 feet by 30, with a waggon-roof, on which is a large painting, seemingly laid on and not projected. The walls are completely covered with coats of arms, every head of a noble family having his arms here. I reckoned above 2000, but there are not half the number at present. This building, as may easily be imagined, is now of very little use since the dissolu- tion of the Senate. Indeed we were present at a concert held in the large room. Close to the Salle des Nobles are two other public buildings, also old ; one is the town-house, where the courts are held. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 153 The mint is a large and rather heavy building, with four fluted pillars of great bulk. In the place before the Salle des Nobles there is a pedestrian statue of Gustaf Vasa, with an inscription purporting that it was erected by the Order of Nobles soon after the Eevolution. From Stockholm west to Eytterholm a bridge leads, handsome though not large, built of hewn stone by Gustaf III.; the balustrades of polished granite, of which and of the porphyry there are some fine slabs, particularly the one which has the inscription. The only building of consequence in Eytterholm is the Cathedral Church, which is very old, and by no means fine, though the best in Stock- holm. It is only remarkable for the bodies which it contains. Gustavus Adolphus is below ground, as are the greater number, but the coffin of Charles XII. is above. It is of black marble, and has no inscrip- tion— only a crown and a lion's skin. Once when we saw it, the king had very lately been inspecting the body in an inquiry concerning the manner of his death, and the workmen were repairing the lid which had been broken, so that we saw the small coffin of red velvet and gold lace. In the same aisle (which is a handsome circular building on the outside, with pillars and a crown and cushion of stone on the top) there are two other coffins above ground — I believe those of Queen Ulrica and Frederic Adolphus. Gustaf III. is in the vault. Marshal Torstensen is buried in his family aisle in the same church, and several other men of fame. In the island north of Stockholm is 154 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. the manege and stables, which hold 100 horses ; some of these, particularly the Spanish, are very fine ; but we were much surprised at the very rough and bloody way in which they are trained. The communication between the island and the city is at present by two wooden bridges ; but that one which leads to the palace is to be taken away, and the handsome stone bridge that leads from the north island to the north suburb is to be continued to the palace. This bridge was built by Gustaf III. The Nortmalins Torg (or market-place) is a large open area, in the middle of which there stands an equestrian silvered bronze of Gustavus Adolphus, erected by Gustavus III. On the right of it is the palace of the late king's sister, the Abbess of Quidlen- berg, who does not reside much here ; and opposite is the opera-house. These are exactly alike, and form the east and west sides of the place. They are large handsome buildings, though plain, of white free- stone, with pillars of an oblong form.. The opera-house was built by Gustavus III., and has the inscription — " Gustavus III. Patriis Musis!' In the inside it is very large and splendid ; has a pit, amphitheatre, and four tiers of boxes. The band is numerous, but at present there are few good singers and no remarkable one. The figurantes are far su- perior to those in London, but there is no very first- rate dancer. However, as several of these are ex- ceedingly good, and as the scenery, decorations, and, above all, the number of performers, surpasses any- JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 155 thing of the kind to be found elsewhere, it may be reckoned one of the first institutions of the kind in Europe, if not the first. The expense is beyond all proportion to the other establishments, being 80,000 rix-dollars per annum. It is now altogether in Swedish ; but the late king had a French opera also. He was himself the man- ager ; and was so imprudent as to say " that it cost him more trouble to govern his opera than his kingdom." We had an opportunity of seeing the opera to great advantage at the queen's lying-in ; indeed the operas given on this occasion were the only solemnity which accompanied it, except above a thousand guns which were fired the very moment she was delivered. She was brought to bed about two in the morning ; and the king and Court repaired immediately to the Ryder- holm Church, where a Te Deum was sung. The baptism was a very fine show, in the private chapel of the palace, every one attending in Court dress. Dido was the opera given at the lying-in ; Panurge, at the reception, which happened a few days after we left Stockholm. At the former we were present, though privately (owing to the particular circum- stances). The spectacle was truly grand; the pit and amphitheatre being joined by boarding, benches were placed there for the Court, the king and queen- dowager sitting in the middle. They were superbly dressed, particularly the king, in cloth-of-gold. Next to him the Duke of Sudermania, and next to the queen, the duchess. Behind, the officers and the 156 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. knights aiid nobles in gala dresses. On the right side, behind, sat the foreign ministers : in the boxes, the ladies and gentlemen, all in Court dresses. The duke had a helmet, and a vast plume of feathers ; so had the king, but his was borne for him. There was a garde d'honneur&lso with these large plumes, which resemble opera dresses, and have a very singular effect. It was only in the upper gallery that any middling people appeared, and even these dressed. The splendour of the whole, the quietness and politeness of the behav- iour, were very striking indeed. The opera was ex- ceedingly splendid, but the singers were indifferent, and the singing itself is a patchwork ; the music in general psalmodic, though there are some very pretty airs. The arsenal is now removed to some distance, and is a large, old, and plain building, more remarkable for the antiquities it contains than for anything else. In the first room are several exquisite figures of ar- mour, which had been really worn ; among which was that of Gustavus Vasa and Gustavus Adolphus. There is also a wax figure, in a glass case, of the late king, very disagreeable and mean-looking ; also the dresses worn by him and the duke at Sacuthend and Wibog, with the duke's sword, and both having several shots through ; also the dress worn by the king when he was shot. The wound was through the back, a little above the rump, and went into the bladder. In a little adjoining room arc various sorts of old armour, chiefly rude cannon and pistols, those which the late king and diaries XII. had to play with when cliil- JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 157 dren. In the next and last rooms are a vast number of colours, particularly all those taken by Gustavus Adolphus and his generals, by Charles XII. — one taken by his own hand — and by the late King of Sweden. Here is also the boat which Peter I. built in Holland, and which was taken coming to Eussia. In a suite of rooms leading off to the left are a num- ber of articles, horse-furniture for Queen Christina, £c. &c. ; a vast number of rich vests from Turkey and Algiers, particularly a fine large piece of gold cloth, with many diamonds and rubies, &c., and a vast multitude of pearls, quite covering it; and a very handsome gilt traineau of blue satin, a present to Gustavus III. from the Empress of Eussia. But the most remarkable things here are the dresses; the clothes worn by Charles XII. when he was killed. It is a very plain blue doublet, with large round brass buttons ; waistcoat and breeches of the same ; also his shirt, belt, and sword-handle. The small cocked hat has also the mark of the ball on each side. We saw also one of the daggers made to assassinate Gus- tavus Adolphus ; also his dress in which he was killed, almost hacked to pieces, the shirt all cut and bloody ; also his horse stuffed. Near the opera-house is the theatre, an old build- ing, formerly the arsenal, square, with four turrets. The performers are neither numerous nor good — un- equal— though there are two or three very excellent ones, particularly one who has the faculty of making himself so like the great King of Prussia that an 158 VISIT TO DENMARK [r799- officer who had served under him cried when he saw him, as Seton told us, who was with him at the time. The piece where he appears in this character is called "Kaminar Page." The theatre is very small and ill lighted ; all the light is thrown on the stage, as at Copenhagen. There is very little variety of scenes ; but the house is elegantly fitted up. On the quay above the bridge stands the club- house : it belonged to one of the oldest of the Swedish nobles, Count Bonde, and is the best and largest private house in Stockholm. The upper floor is let to the club ; and this is the best institution for strangers, and even for natives, which the town offers. It is indeed reckoned without its match in Europe. The club was originally composed of the foreign ministers and such as they introduced ; but it has become now much enlarged, and the number of mem- bers fixed at 300, each of whom can introduce a stranger, who has then the run of the rooms for two o ; months. The regulations are very good, and the scheme excellently managed. The rooms are very large and handsome, consisting of a reading-room, where the Swedish and foreign papers are received, with maps and periodical publications ; a drawing- room, with sofas and tables; a large ball-room, where cards are played on common occasions; billiard-room, card-room, and dining-room ; besides dressing-rooms and apartments belonging to the maUre d'hotel, who is a Frenchman, and keeps six or seven servants. There is a most excellent table in the French style, JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 159 where you dine for thirty-two skellings, or about two shillings — or forty-four skellings with claret. The thirty-two was late]y raised from twenty-four. At this society all the most fashionable men in Stock- holm attend. Some of the first merchants subscribe, but seldom or never go there. Those who go seem to spend their whole time chiefly in billiards and card-playing. The bulk of the company are officers. Sometimes as many as sixty dine. They play very well at billiards, almost always Carolina ; and a good deal of gambling goes on at this as well as at cards, the favourite games at which are Ombre and Dummy. When we first came to Stockholm the club was not so well attended as afterwards, owing to families being out of town, and no visiting taking place. Indeed at best there is very little of it here, and none for strangers, except among the foreign ministers, your banker, or any other citizen to whom you have an introduction, and who gives you one formal feed. The Swedes are a very polite people, the officers particularly, at least as far as bowing and etiquette ; but of real politeness we saw very little, owing to their extreme rudeness to strangers. The Court's fear of being thought dependent upon any foreign power, descends to individuals ; and at the time we were there every stranger complained. The only way to avoid this state of coupee, is to cut all the diplo- matic people ; for, with one exception (the Spanish secretary, who had been here fourteen years), not a soul among them is associated with. 160 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. MEN OF LETTERS, ETC. There are three learned societies here — the Swedish Academy, the Royal Academy of Sciences, and the Academy of Belles Lettres. The first is wholly for the improvement of the Swedish tongue. It was founded l>y Gustavus III., and is at present engaged in a dic- tionary; but the members have been rather remiss, and only a few of them have finished their letters. The other two publish their memoirs in Swedish. I was present at a sitting of the Academy of Sciences. They have a large house in the city, where the office-bearers have also apartments. Their museum of natural history is far from rich. There are, however, a considerable number of snakes, and a room full of South Sea dresses, &c., brought by Mr Sparman, who went with Cook. The Hortus Siccus, too, is well filled. The library is very small, being of very late date. The Academy met, when I saw it, in a plain, good room, hung round with pictures of its most eminent members and cncouragers. There were twenty present, who sat all round a long table ; and the unfortunate visitor was obliged to sit solo beyond the circle, at the wall. A number of the members (indeed the greater part) had orders, and were noble- men. The chair was filled by an old gentleman who had been minister for foreign affairs. The subject of conversation was, " The propriety of extending the knowledge of Lapland;" and the plan for the purpose was carried by a ballot almost unanimously. A paper XT. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. l6l was also read giving an account of a new steam- engine, invented by a gentleman who resided many years in Eussia and Sweden, and is now counsellor of mines. The talking was carried on rather too quickly, and without much distinctness or any order. I was made acquainted (by Mr Sparman) with Mr Swanberg, the professor of astronomy; he lives at the Observa- tory, and was very obliging in assisting me with letters for Torneo, of which place he is a native, though I was surprised to find he knew little or nothing of Lapland. He was up last summer at Torneo exam- ining the measurements of the French Academy, as the Academy here means to repeat these on a great scale, taking in two degrees. This work they are already preparing, and think to begin the summer after next, though want of money is a great obstacle. Mr Sparman is a very worthy creature, and, I believe, skilful enough in his profession, but his scientific knowledge seems confined altogether to natural his- tory. He complains that Vaillant (whom he calls charlatan) has copied his map, and says that Lieu- tenant Paterson used him much better. He is a Swedenborgian. Mr Sjostrom is one of the secre- taries, and a great electrician. He lectures in the Academy's great hall, where they meet in summer : it is very handsome, and he has a good apparatus. He has translated 'Cavallo's Electricity' into Swedish; and is busy with a discovery he has made lately, and which he explained to us. He finds that all parts of the body which do not perspire sensibly, will show VOL. I. L 1 62 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. evident signs of electricity by being pressed hard and the electricity suddenly raised. To Mr Melanderhjelm I was introduced by Mr D'Asp ;* he is an old man of about eighty, but with his faculties entire. His delight is mathematics, and he has published various works and papers on this subject, particularly a treatise of astronomy. There is no university at Stockholm, but several lectures are given. The learned men are not on the whole much esteemed or well known, and are stigmatised as peculiarly Jacobinical ; indeed the number is not considerable. There are two sets, one belonging to the Academy, the other (perhaps those of most merit) are private. There is a review written by one of these, said to be very severe and much dreaded by the Academy ; also a periodical miscellany, called 1 Lavingegen Blandade.' It is a collection of transla- tions and original pieces, some of them very exact. "We particularly admired a Swedish translation of 'Alonso and Imogene/ There are a great number of pieces translated from the 'Wealth of Nations/ All that class of men are freethinkers. The fine arts are in a flourishing state here con- sidering how few amateurs there are among the rich. There is an Academy of Painting and Sculpture found- ed by the late king. Mr Fredenheim is at the head, a gentleman of taste, who has travelled much and has * Daniel Melander, incremented to Melanderhjelm on his being en- nobled in 1778, born at Stockholm 1726, died 1810. A list of his works and a reference to biographical notices of him in Swedish works will be found in the '^Nouvelle Biographic Ge*nerale.' JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 163 several good things, particularly a fine collection of coins chiefly Koman, inter alia a Niger. He is son of Melander, the late Archbishop of Upsal. The Academy has produced a set of young artists of great merit in drawing and modelling. The terms are very reasonable. The first artist here is Mr Sergei, a statuary/"" He was some time at Borne, and was obliged to leave it owing to the jealousy of the artists, and to one (sup- posed to be Canova) of whom only he was inferior. His last work, not yet finished, is the bronze statue of Gustavus III., which the citizens of Stockholm have caused to be made, and it is to be placed upon the quay, before the palace, on a pedestal of Swedish por- phyry. This is a most superb statue, 14 feet high, weighing 30 tons with, and 24 without, the knobs. The attitude is that of the Apollo Belvidere. His left hand is leaning on a rudder, round the top of which is a laurel wreath. In his right is an olive- branch, rather too small. He is supposed to be re- turning from the Finland war with the peace, and stepping from his boat to the palace. We could not help remarking the extreme dissimilarity of the two sides of his face. The left has more slope and less angle than the right, in the cheek ; and the left brow falls away flat and hollow, the skull becoming round * Johan Tobias Sergei, born at Stockholm in 1744, died 1814. He endeared himself to his countrymen by declining munificent offers from Catherine of Russia, that he might spend his days and exercise his art among them. The most easily accessible account of him is perhaps that in the * Biographie Universelle.' 164 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. and large on the opposite side, to which it looks twisted ; the forehead large, and the expression of the face fine. It resembles the bust of Mr Fox between the eyebrows, and the nose is somewhat aquiline. It is strikingly like (as D'Asp told us, who was con- stantly with the late king) ; only Sergei said the twist in the face was rather greater in the original. This is the first thing of the kind that has been done at Stockholm, and succeeded perfectly well. It took a fortnight to cool. In return for this statue there is an obelisk erecting in the space between the palace and Exchange, commemorating the loyalty of the inhabi- tants of Stockholm during the Finland war. Mr Sergei has several good statues, two particu- larly at the end of the room, besides vases, a dying Octriades, and a fawn : after that in the palace, are the best of his own above-stairs. Below is his theatre, where we saw his two masterpieces — Mars holding Venus, wounded by Diomede, and Love raising Psyche. The body of Venus is finely expressed. There are also medallions of Gustavus III. and IV. extremely like, and casts of Trajan's column of the real size, executed by Sergei at Kome, by order of the late king, for whose temple at Haga most of these things are intended. The best painter here is Mr Breda, a pupil of Sir Joshua Eeynolds, and one whose works are known in London. He painted the Turkish ambassador, which was exhibited in London, and then engraved. It is now here ; but he has several others better. en. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 165 Mr Martin is an E.A. of London ; his forte seems to be caricature-painting, for his landscapes are daubs. One of his pupils is a most wonderful drawer of figures, but nothing in landscape. * Mr Belanger is a most ex- cellent landscape-painter, both in oil and water colour. The manners of the people in this capital are ex- tremely dissolute, particularly of the people of fashion. The instances of profligacy about Court almost exceed belief in so northerly a situation. The women of fashion carry on their amours in the most scandalous and public manner. Madame de L , whose hus- band is minister at the Hague, lives openly with Baron d'E . Her sons, two of the most fashion- able young men in Stockholm, are very intimate with the baron, and with the minister too. She is daugh- ter of the late Count J . On her husband com- plaining to him soon after his marriage, he asked him, " Have you any paper, any writing, any title- deed, by which to plead exemption from the common lot of husbands " ? This kind of instance might be multiplied to an endless extent. This profligacy seems to descend to the lower orders. Their manners are growing corrupted too. While we were at Stock- holm several instances happened : a man killed his wife because she would not assist him in corrupt- ing his own daughter. Three men were hanged for * This Martin cannot be David Martin, the portrait-painter, cele- brated for the picture of Lord Mansfield, which he afterwards engraved, as he died in 1797. Nor can it be John Martin, celebrated as the author of ' Belshazzar's Feast,' and others of the like character, for he was only ten years old at the period. 166 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. forgery (one of them a nobleman). They continued forging notes even whilst in prison. A gang of thieves robbed a noble's house with the assistance of his servants. Another gang formed a plan to rob and murder indiscriminately, throwing the bodies into the sea ; and this they actually perpetrated on several. The causes of this profligacy among the lower classes may be partly owing to the state of the currency and dear- ness of provisions. The conduct of the late king gave rise to the profligacy of the Court/''* Gustavus III. endeavoured by every means in his power to render Stockholm a second Paris. He increased the splendour of the Court, invented the Court dresses, and encouraged the arts, besides erect- ing a number of public buildings. He introduced and encouraged effeminate habits, and pursued a system of favouritism that led to his own destruction ; for we were told that the real cause of Count Horn's joining in the conspiracy to assassinate him — nay, of his originating the conspiracy itself — was his loading with honours and making governor of Stockholm a young man who, from some cause, had made Horn his implacable enemy.t The highest office under the * It must be held as corroborative of the accuracy of the account here given of the amount of social immorality and of criminality in Sweden, that a like picture is given of the country by an acute traveller there nearly forty years later — see ' A Tour in Sweden in 1 838, comprising Observations on the Moral, Political, and Economical State of the Swedish Nation,' by Samuel Laing, Esq. The popular Swedish novels of Miss Bremer let their reader into the secret of social life by her re- ference to those sins which prove sore temptations to the heroines whose virtue overcomes them. t Gustavus III. was shot dead at a masked ball on 10th March 1792. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 167 Crown is Governor of Stockholm ; but this has been kept vacant since the death of Gustavus. The consequence of the present king's utter want of economy has been that the country is quite drained of money, and from this the greatest inconveniences arise, besides the real loss. They have notes down to 12 skellings ; each skelling at par is above one penny sterling, there being 6 rix-dollars to the pound; but when we were there the medium of the exchange might be reckoned 6 rix-dollars 32 skellings to the pound sterling, or a plate equal to one shilling, and a rix-dollar to three shillings. It is perhaps a con- sequence of the fluctuating state of the money that there is the most surprising uncertainty in the prices of articles. There is no sort of level or standard. In the same part of the town you find in different shops the same article different by half the price almost. This remark Mr Hailes made in the most positive manner. There is no such thing as tracing a lost note, for the numbers are not always changed in the new yearly issue. To get specie you must pay a heavy agio, which at that time was about 50 per cent, so much was the paper depreciated. The states of the kingdom are the security for this rix-gelt, and the bank for the banco-gelt, which is of the same value with specie. The king is allowed to issue a certain number of notes ; but as he issues to supply the waste, there is no check upon him in this respect. It was for the purpose of obtaining the diet's sanction to the last issue that the meeting at Gefle was held: the 1 68 VISIT TO DENMARK [i799- king, also, wished to have the Lank into his own hands, but this he could not accomplish. The late king made specie somewhat plenty by borrowing from Holland near a million specie, which he circu- lated ; but this is now drained off also. The old plates (of copper) went to Denmark chiefly. At this diet bribery was exercised in a very open way, though on a small scale. Thus pensions were given of a rix-dollar per day. Indeed the late king ruled very much by corruption, which, from the poverty of the nobility, he found no very difficult thing. One of the engines of bribery was orders: of these there are four. 1. The Seraphim or Blue Ribbon, which is held by a few only. 2. The Sword, a military order of merit — a yellow ribbon, distributed with immense profusion to almost all the army above captains. It is this which Sir Sidney Smith has. 3. The Polar Star, a black ribbon given to civil officers, learned men, &c. 4. Vasa or the Wheatsheaf, a green ribbon given to eminent merchants, agriculturists, &c. The Sword and Vasa were invented by the late king, and distributed in great profusion, as well as the Polar Star and letters of nobility in the way of douceurs. Indeed this continues, as we saw at the queen's lying-in, when three columns of the news- paper were rilled with a list of creations. The dissimulation of the late king was consummate. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 169 He retired to Upsal for two winters, and cultivated the acquaintance of the learned men, attended lectures, &c., whilst in fact he was busy planning the Finland war, which surprised not only Eussia, but all Europe. He came to dine at Ekolsund, and seemed quite degagS. Walked about with Seton, and pointed out the improvements required about his place. That afternoon he set off, and travelling with his usual despatch two Swedish miles an hour, arrived at Hed- mora in the morning, where he harangued the Dale- carlians, and raised them for the relief of Gottenborg. This rapid mode of travelling he always used. He had his bed in his coach, and undressed regularly at night. He used, if going too slow, to put down the window, and ask the coachman (Molman) " whether he was carrying eggs to market." That evening Seton asked one of the lords who was wTith him where they were going; but he told him, " we know nothing more about it than you do." He laughed much at English liberty, and hated the English, admiring and copying the French in all things. When setting off from Ekolsund, happening to talk of the safety of travelling in Sweden, he said : " By the way, Seton, how can the King of England possibly allow highway robberies \ Were I there I'd order three or four regiments of horse to patrol the roads ; but oh ! that would be reckoned an infringement upon liberty:" with a sneer and laugh. De Lisle, the French consul, saw him at Gotten- borg (in 1788), just as the accounts had come of the order for assembling the States -General in France. 170 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. He said in a very sad way to him, that it would not end there — that a revolution dreadful to all Europe was at hand— and spoke as if he knew it otherwise than by mere conjecture : he added, " I must hasten to finish my revolution before this begins, and before it becomes dangerous to call together the States/' The most extravagant accounts are given of his eloquence — of his uncommon powers of persuading and talking people over, and his irresistible faculty of producing tears in his audience. Yet he did not understand Swedish as well as French, and used to write his speeches in the latter, and then have them translated. He contrived by his address and eloquence to ingratiate himself wonderfully with the people, whose power he wished to balance against that of the nobles. "Whilst he was in Finland he was himself outwitted by the Danes. General Mansback (whom we saw and conversed a great deal with at Friedric's Hald) was sent over on a message of compliment to him, and stayed a week entire with him, but in fact to be a spy on his intentions ; and the king's constant tone was, " I am sure Denmark will do nothing against a peace so necessary," &c. &c. But all of a sudden the General (Mansback) and the Prince Eoyal broke into Sweden, and had wellnigh taken Gottenborg, had not the English minister (Elliot) threatened to bombard Copenhagen. The present king is totally unlike him both in person and character. He is wholly managed by a junto, who direct everything, to the great dis- /ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. I/I content of the rest of the nobility. Of this junto the chief are Count Uglas, governor of the province of Stockholm ; Count Fersen, who commanded the regi- ment of the Swedes (Sweders Eonol) in France, and made a very narrow escape from the guillotine for his zeal in assisting the royal family's flight in 1791 ; and Admiral Eosenstein. Some are, however, of opinion that the king's abil- ities will break forth, and indeed there is some reason to think that he will endeavour to imitate his sup- posed father; at least he recalled all those whom the regent had displaced, and has lately appointed the wife of Armfelt governess to the young Crown Prince, which makes people expect that he himself is to be recalled. The regent by his conduct displeased everybody, particularly by his choice of Eeuterholm for his minister. He is a man of very inferior abili- ties ; and instead of his brother's determined spirit, his government was marked by timidity and indecision. He was never popular even before, and his loss of the Swedish fleet at Wiborg had greatly incensed the people against him. He displaced the chief favour- ites of his brothers, some of them openly, others more indirectly. Thus D'Essen threw up his offices, and quitted the Court on some economical regulations being proposed in his department. The dismissal of Munk was another act of his, and has been much misrepresented. In the course of Gustaf III.'s extravagance and constant want of money, he had borrowed a considerable sum from 1 72 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. Munk, who was a particular friend of his. Munk wanted his money very much ; and the king, to pay him, ordered him to get a sum nearly the double of what he owed. Munk got this done openly in the king's name by an artist in town, and being paid out of the sum, the king got the surplus. The notes were sent to Finland by a Jew, and drained that country of money. Munk, having got no order under the king's hand, on his death was ordered to leave the country, and the estate in Finland, bought with his money, was confiscated. He went to Italy and bought an estate in the Cisalpine Republic, whence, of course, he is now driven, and lives at Hamburg on a small annuity, which he still has. The lenity with which all Gustaf's murderers (except Ankerstrom) were treated, and the duke's connection with the masons of higher orders, of which he was master, has given rise to a report, doubtless unjust, that he was privy to his brother's murder. I read a book in Stockholm where this is roundly asserted (' Assassinat de Gustave III., par un officier Polonais'). Mansback(who is a great mason) told a story of the duke and himself having met in a church in Stockholm^ and being about ghost-raising, when the duke approached the wall, seeing a spirit, as he thought, on it. When going to address her she a:sked an indecent question, to the extreme confusion of the party, who did not recover it for a long time. It was, in fact, a woman of the town who had got into the church. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 173 The assassins are now much scattered. Horn is in Iceland, Eibbing is said to be in Paris, and Lilienhorn is a schoolmaster in an obscure town in Poland. It is thought to have been very lucky for the peace of the country that the king lived some weeks after his brother, as, had he died without making the proper arrangements, there is little doubt that the discon- tented party would have taken the opportunity of attempting a revolution. The power of Kussia, of course, keeps them in awe. The antipathy of the people is very violent; in playing at cards (for in- stance) they call in joke your adversary "the Russian." This antipathy swallows up any pique against the Danes, with whom they would willingly join against Russia. The Court, however, must bend to their power. Accordingly the late proclamation was written to please it. This absurd piece was written with the king's own hand. The present politics of Sweden are very singular : ^ fear of dependence seems the great spring of all the Court's motions; yet the favour shown to the Eussian ambassador, who is treated on every occasion with peculiar distinction, seems inconsistent with this principle. He alone is allowed to sit at table with the royal family; and at the opera-house he was placed in a place quite separate from the other ministers. It must, however, be observed, that he is the only full ambassador now in Stockholm. The king was to have been married to one of our prin- cesses (Mary), but the match was broken off, for fear 1/4 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. of dependence on England. Then lie went in person to Mecklenburg, where everything was ready for his marriage with one of the princesses there ; and when all was arranged and publicly notified, he suddenly broke off, for fear of English influence. He went to Petersburg (forced to break off the other, it is said, by the emperor) and was waiting there in expecta- tion of being married to one of the grand -duchesses, but he seized the opportunity of the empress's death and returned home. He then married the Princess of Baden (who at first disliked him and the country), and with whom (except her beauty) he got nothing, neither friends nor money ; but then her insignifi- cance secured his apparent independence. The people, especially the merchants, are violent against the English; laugh at our liberty, which they call gilded slavery ; talk of Pitt as a monster, and the war as the greatest of all curses. They indeed smart from it, and declare that their trade is ruined. The successes of France always increase the public prejudice in her favour ; and on these depend also the motions of the Government. It is supposed that the king has a mind to follow out some of his father's plans, especially with respect to a Eussian alliance. The governors of provinces have the whole district also almost completely under their power; the different chancellories, or the parliaments, being wholly under their direction, while the bishop governs the Church. Finland and Pomerania are distinct and separate governments. The raising of taxes is left to the ;ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 175 governors of the provinces, and is done as follows : Every province is divided into hundreds ; and formerly there were subdivisions of tithings, a distinction now lost. In each hundred the governor selects a jury of nine — three nobles, three ecclesiastics, and three peasants. These meet in the chief town of the hundred and fix the sum to be paid annually by the district. When a general tax is to be laid on the nobles, it is by an assessment laid on the ploughs of land, into eighty thousand of which the whole country is divided, as England formerly was into Hydes and Knights' fees, and as many parts of Germany now are, into " whole-farmers " and " half-farmers." The people in office are in general very poor, and their influence in no way formidable. It is a great deal if they can support a trifling household upon their appointments, and offices (at Court) are so poor and yet so eagerly sought for ; yet scarcely an officer of State has sufficient influence to give away a place of a hundred rix-dollars a-year. The same poverty extends through every department of State, though magnificence is aped by having a multitude of officers with small salaries in order to oblige many dependants. Thus there are four secretaries of State with £200 per annum salary, though quite in want of employ- ment. The minister for foreign affairs has £400 ; the postmaster-general, £150. The judges have £100; but this is so taxed that they do not get above £80 : the consequence is bribery. The diplomatic men are well paid ; indeed beyond all proportion. Thus the 176 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. Swedish minister in London has £1500 per annum. The nobles, whose fortunes are extremely unequal, but in general very small, are reduced to the necessity of oppressing their peasantry, of which we saw the effects in our journey to Stockholm ; though in the north, we are told, where the peasantry hold of the Crown — in Bothnia, Jutland, Angermanland, and Helsingland — the contrary is observed, for there the peasantry are rich and independent. The Court itself shows a curious mixture of poverty and state. For while they pay 80,000 rix-dollars for the opera, they and the town were afraid to have an illumination at the queen's delivery, for fear there would not remain enough of candles. The queen's state-coach is an old one formerly belonging to an English minister. There are so seldom Court days that strangers are presented in a private way after the parade, other- wise they must wait eight months ; and a regiment of two hundred and fifty uncommonly tall men (Swedes) were obliged to be disbanded very lately, literally because the expense of feeding, &c., was too great. Though there is scarcely a party given in a whole year by any individual nobleman, yet they have piques-niques, at the expense and profusion of which a stranger is surprised ; and occasionally great fetes are given by the society, most remarkably splendid, — for instance, one (while we were gone to Upsal) where five hundred people were present, and a most magnificent entertainment ; but not above £200 were allowed them monthly for expenses. /ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 177 The partiality for a French alliance exists yet ; all the men of property and consequence wish that, what- ever government is established in France. The old alliance may be established between France, Poland, Prussia, Spain, Turkey, and Sweden, as a bar to Eussia on the one hand, and England and the Em- peror on the other. For England they do not conceal their hatred ; and though their ships have been seized by both sides, they are silent as to the one, and load the other with abuse. When the fleet (said to be worth half a million sterling) was lately seized and condemned, to the great loss of the mercantile in- terest in general, and the utter ruin of one, the commander of the convoy who gave them up was tried and condemned to be shot, and though pardoned on the place of execution, yet sent for six months to the fortress of Sveaborg. The King of Sweden, too, wrote a letter with his own hand to our king, who (some accounts say) left it all with his ministers and judges ; others, that he gave no answer at all. One of the accusations against Mr Hailes was, his having appeared on Change the very day the news of the capture came. D'Asp was recalled from Lon- don, it is said, because our king turned his back on him, which the King of Sweden pointedly did to Hailes, and treated him with every mark of disrespect. The people were furious, crying that he deserved to lose his crown if he did not take vengeance. Buonaparte's return occasioned a dinner of a large company, composed of some respectable people, and VOL. I. M 178 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. others, as clerks, &c., to drink his health ; Suwarow's was drunk in cold water ; and the French consul, who presided, gave the fraternal embrace once round, and then again ; and being asked a third time (as the story goes), was so fatigued he could not. A singer (Dupuis) was immediately sent out of the country for having sung there, but was to have been pardoned ; but coming on the stage one night when the king was there, the first sentence of his part happening to be — " I don't go, but stay here " — was prodigiously applauded as being apropos. The king said to the officer who sat with him, " But he shall go." Accord- ingly the man was sent off, but a great subscription made for him, and loaded with presents, and impos- tures were practised to get more from the king. The French consul, too, sent to make his apology to the minister of foreign affairs. The wives of ministers are not received at Court unless they wear the Swedish Court dress. The only one who has submitted to this is the Portuguese min- ister's lady, Madame de Correa, who does not find herself a whit better received than before. This dis- pute about the dress originated with a minister of the emperor, whose wife was literally turned out of a ball-room by order of the late king. The population of Sweden does not exceed three millions, of which one must be allowed to Finland and Lapland. The last has now only 10,000 in- habitants. The army nominally amounts to 80,000 men, in- JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA, 179 eluding militia : they support in time of peace only enough to garrison the forts, and for the guards. The greater part of these standing troops, including two yeomen regiments, are divided between Stockholm, and Pomerania, and Finland. The most important garrisons are those of Sveaborg and Marstrand the former in Finland, the latter on the frontiers of Nor- way. These are esteemed the keeps of the empire, being both built on inaccessible rocks, at the distance of three or four miles from the coast, and Sveaborg commands a fine harbour. The rest of the army is rather a militia, but upon a singular footing, and, I believe, unparalleled in Europe. Each province furnishes a regiment, which is called after its name. The men, who are all peasants of the place, have no pay, except at stated times when called out. Besides this, they are obliged to parade every Sunday at the church-door of the parish. They are found in a house, and a small portion of ground, which the proprietor is obliged to take care of when the holder is in the field or at exercise. In this way each estate is burdened with a certain number of men. Their houses are marked by a square board, with a number inscribed on. it. The children of soldiers in general become soldiers too, and, being trained to the musket from their youth, do not differ from the soldiers of other armies. The officers have farms in the same provinces with their regiments — the captain in the midst of his company, and the colonel in the middle of the province. The same l8o VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. plan is extended to sailors who are quartered along the coasts ; but this does not answer so well, and it makes the navy full of old men, as the young take care to get employed among the merchants, who are obliged, however, in time of war to furnish a certain quota of men to the navy. The army in Sweden is thus extremely economical. The king's guards them- selves are only paid twopence per day when on duty; and at other times have to work for themselves. However, the soldiers are often supported by the public works, in some of which they are the chief labourers, as at Trollhatta. The officers are for the most part very poor, though men of family. Thus, a lieutenant has only 120 rix-dollars per annum. The chief officers at present in the Swedish service are Count Fersen; Flatten, the governor of Pomerania; and Shlimpston, the commander-in-chief in Finland. The navy is powerful in proportion to the other establish- ments : 40 sail, chiefly frigates, of which the greater part are at Carlscrona, one of the finest harbours in the world, though some are laid up in ordinary at Stock- holm. Many of them are old and ill-built ; but those which have been laid down of late are on the most beautiful models made by Admiral Chapman, who lives at Carlscrona, and is one of the first naval architects in Europe. The last time the king was at Carlscrona, a frigate was launched, and the keel of an 80-gun ship laid down. Though beaten at Wiborg by the Eussians, they perfectly retrieved their credit by a victory at Suensksund. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. l8l The revenues of Sweden amount to about two millions sterling, but are rather on the decrease, from the expension of the mines ; and they are burdened with about eight millions national debt, the interest of which they find it difficult to pay. The commerce, particularly up the gulf, is greatly increasing : several ports have been opened of late. Stockholm is situated very advantageously for ship- ping, not only from the excellence of the harbour, but its distance (six or eight miles) from the sea, so that ships have to be warped up between narrow channels almost all this way. The staple articles are flax, hemp, iron, and deals ; and chiefly flax and iron, of which last particularly there is a magnificent depot at Stockholm. Gefle is a large trading town up the gulf, and is reckoned the fourth in Sweden ; it fits out ships of seven or eight hundred tons burden. Sundsvall, Hudiksvall, Havosund, Lulea, and Tornea, and se- veral large places up the gulf, have lately been made free towns, and have added very considerably to the commerce of the country. In the West Indies, Sweden has some small trade from the posses- sion of St Bartholomew, ceded by France. It is a barren rock, and now literally a depot for smuggling. The governor had behaved so ill to the inhabitants, that deputies were arrived in Stockholm, while we were there, to complain of his conduct. Their trade in the East Indies used to be very con- siderable, and Gottenborg the headquarters, though 182 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. at present it is in a bad way, the India house being actually shut up, as we heard then, and the people complaining most dismally that their trade is ruined. The consequence of all this is, that coffee has been for- bid in order to encourage tea, to the great annoyance of the people. Indeed, while Lord Henry Spencer was our minister at Stockholm, so violent an alterca- tion arose on this subject among the ministers, that several are said to have been obliged to quit the Court, and Lord Henry sent on the subject a courier-extra- ordinary to England. French brandy was also for- bidden ; but (from some instances of discontent which occurred) it was found better to take off this pro- hibition. The great obstacle to commercial improvement is the depreciation of the rix-dollar, which introduces endless confusion, as well as loss. Thus, in retailing, if a person wishes to buy an article whose price is not expressed by any note, he must either pay more than the price or give specie, by which he loses ; for if you give away specie in common dealings the agio is not allowed, which you paid to get it. Thus, too, all officers under Government are paid in the rix-dollar, so that, since its immense fall, the value of the salaries has fallen in proportion, whilst the price of provisions rises. Besides rix-dollars and banco, they have lately issued a note of very singular kind — viz., a piece of copper intrinsically worth one-sixth of a skelling, which is made worth a half-skelling, and is called a pallet. It is singular enough that a number of prices JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 183 remain so much the same. Thus, that of posting was not different in 1736, as we see by Duther's voyage —and how long before I know not. It seems not improbable that some violent convul- sion will take place from the state of events. The language of Sweden is evidently sprung from the Teutonic, and that it is a very pure remnant of that stock may be inferred from a curious circumstance. Almost everywhere else we find in names of persons and places remnants of dead language, and not to be understood by the present natives, though easily understood by knowing the roots of the ancient local tongue. But in Sweden the case is quite different; all the names are modern Swedish, and any one moderately acquainted with that language as it is at present spoken there, can easily discover the meaning of each appellation. For instance, one can form a very good guess at the situation, &c., of a place before seeing it. Names of persons can almost all be traced as easily ; and this is connected with another pecu- liarity. No one but a noble can properly have any surname, though merchants, &c., do take them. Then in courts of law these names are not acknowledged— they are called in deeds and citations, James, James's son, and Anne, James's daughter. The lower classes, as peasants, have actually no surnames at all, being constantly called by their Christian names. Thus a parish register is an unin- telligible list of Christian names with the fathers' a-ffixed. When a gentleman hires a servant, he often 184 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. wishes to distinguish him ; this he does according to his fancy : thus Seton calls his coachman always "Preston," after his Scotch estate. This prevails also in Iceland and Norway. The people have thus de- rived their names from circumstances; thus one of the oldest families is called Bonde (a peasant), and Vasa is a wheat - sheaf . When the clergy take a name, or continue their father's, if he had one, they add the termination " us " to it : thus the Archbishop of Upsal's father was called Trail, he himself Troilus, and when ennobled became Von Troil. Almost all the names ending in "ander," as Dryander, Polander. &c., come from the province of SmSland. There are, of course, various dialects in Sweden. That spoken by the common people in Stockholm is by no means good ; and I perceived the greatest change in the dialect of Western Gothland, where could not always make himself understood. I believe it softens down more and more as you get into the Danish pro- vinces. The purest Swedish is spoken in Wermeland, in Dalecarlia : the natives speak a dialect quite differ- ent from the rest of the Swedes, who cannot under- stand them; but they also speak Swedish, and are shy of using their own tongue except among them- selves. It very strongly resembled Anglo-Saxon, and many words which we heard repeated in Dalecarlia are quite good English. Besides, they retain the ih and w, which none of the other languages except the English do. The manners of these people are as different from the other Swedes as the language. JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 185 They are by much the best of them, and the bravest, as well as simplest. Gustavus III. was peculiarly anxious about cultivating their good opinions, but he never succeeded well. The Swedish language has been much cultivated by the natives, at least they have many more authors than the Danes or other northern nations, perhaps from their being more in- sulated and having less intercourse with foreigners. The history of their own country has been written by their two best authors, Dahlin and Lagobring. The latter being written according to a clear method, and without the tedious prolixity of the former, is esteemed the best. The Chevalier Ihre, famous for his know- ledge of northern antiquities, has published a work of great labour and information, ' Dictionarium Suedo- Gothicum/'* Their chief poet is Kelgren, who, besides several poems and imitations, is celebrated for his opera of ' Gustaf Yasa/ in the composition of which the late king is said to have had a share. The poetry is said to be extremely fine ; and the decorations, &c., are splendid in the performance, beyond conception. But probably much of its merit consists in its being a grand national subject. Besides, I am told, it is a good deal imitated from Eichard III. Their other chief authors are Leopold, who has written some small poetical things ; and Silvertalp, a satirist and author of the ' Ser Review/ There are, besides, a multitude of * Johan Ihre, born at Lund 1707, died 1780. The Dictionary re- ferred to was published at Upsala in 1769, in two volumes folio. A list of his works will be found under his name in Adelung's Supplement to the ' Allgemeines Gelehrten Lexicon ' of Jocher. 186 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. translations from English, French, and German, and many authors of political pamphlets, which they are at incredible pains to get transported into Eussia, as the difficulty of procuring such publications there makes them sure of a ready sale. The law of Sweden is founded partly on the civil law, partly on the old Gothic constitutions. The code is small and very distinctly drawn up, occupy- ing only one small volume. The criminal code is extremely mild, and (except Ankerstrom's) no execu- tion had taken place at Stockholm for twenty years. One happened while we were there, that for forgery (vide suprci), and was performed in a cruel manner. The culprits were hung up by the middle, their head and heels almost touching ; then the executioner gave each a kick on the neck, so that the numerous spec- tators actually heard it break. They were so shocked at the spectacle that it was feared for some time after a tumult might take place. The police of Stockholm is very bad indeed. The Lieutenant de Police was turned out of town by the late king for infamous practices. The rogues about town are chiefly soldiers, and it is extremely unsafe to walk at night in any but the most frequented parts of the town. Thieving is universal. The religion of Sweden is Lutheran, though they admit bishops who are for the most part ennobled, and prelates of orders. Von Troil was created Arch- bishop of Upsala — the only Lutheran archbishop in the world — by Gustavus III., rather as one whom he JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. l8/ could make sure of in his political intrigues, than for any shining talents. In 1789, when the Act of Secu- rity was to be signed, Troil was so much intimidated by the nobles, that he durst not consent — on which the king desired him to have & fit of the gout, which he complied with, and the Bishop of Lynkoping (the next) signed. He has since had the gout in earnest, and was confined with it when we saw him at Stock- holm. His revenue is £1500 per annum, and some patronage of small livings, a great thing in Sweden, where there exists literally scarcely any such thing as patronage at all. The inferior clergy are for the most part selected at Upsala, Lind, and Abo, the three universities, from the poor students. The livings are small and the parishes very extensive. In order to have an opportunity of seeing the rural economy of this country, and also of visiting Upsal, we accepted the invitation of Baron Seton, a Scots- man, and spent several days with him, both in going to Upsala and in returning. Seton had been well acquainted with Gustavus III., and ennobled, some said from the king's love of a joke, his name being Baron, which he changed for an estate left him by his uncle, called Seton. I remember seeing on one of his window-shutters a few words written by Gus- tavus, importing that on such a day he had come there from the revolution : of course the date was 1772. There was then at Stockholm a great sculptor, Sergei, whose works were well worth seeing, and who 1 88 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. had many anecdotes to relate of former times.* It must be added that nothing we heard of Gustavus III. tended to raise our opinion of him in any respect, but for his talents. His public conduct is well known; but he had left a very indifferent impression in soci- ety of his private and personal character. This was the opinion of others, as well as ours, of whom he mentioned Edward Daniel Clarke, and his pupil Cripps. They came to Stockholm while we were there on their Scandinavian tour, which they extended to Greece ; and Clarke has published a full account of it.t We became acquainted with one who proved another author of ' Travels ' some years after — Acerbi —who with his friend Beletti had come from the Mi- lanese, and was afterwards in Marescalchi's mission to Paris. He amused us with an account of a famous clairvoyante who had operated upon his friend and him with different results. When the question was put to Beletti, " Doit - on aimer sa patrie ? " he answered, " Quand on en a une," — which Acerbi said was clairvoyante' s power, not only in getting an answer from one in a trance, but such an answer was above his friend's capacity in his natural state. Lom- bardy at that time was neither Austrian nor French. Napoleon only two years after made Melzi vice-pre- fect before he assumed the iron crown himself. The country between Stockholm and Ekolsund is rocky and woody — some lakes; and the road lies * See above. t To be found in the six volumes of ' Travels in various Countries of Europe, Asia, and Africa,' well known as Clarke's Travels. /ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 189 chiefly along branches of the Malar. After the first stage, however, you get into cultivated country ; in- deed, the whole province of Uppland is plain and fertile. The house and estate belonged to Gustavus III., having been given to him by the States as a provision when prince. It consists of two large wings joined by a low colonnade of offices. The house is very elegant, and well furnished; but so much too large that Seton is wishing to sell it. The estate is one of the largest, perhaps the largest, in Sweden. The grounds are laid out in the old French style, of straight avenues, mazes, &c. We saw the rooms which Gustavus's Court occupied. He was very fond of the place ; and on the windows are some inscriptions written with his own hand. One in particular, dated September 1772 — "Jag komt hit ifran Kevolutionen." The ground is uneven where the house stands, and high, well wooded, with a very extensive avenue. On one side it stretches down to the Malar, which gives an easy communication with Stockholm ; on the other side it overlooks an extensive and cultivated plain, in which the chief part of the estate lies. On the lake he has a large brick and tile work. A great part of the land is let out to tenants on long leases, which he has introduced here from Britain. Some is let out for life on quit-rent, and a third portion re- mains in his own hands — no tenants at will. The part in his own hands he cultivates to the best ad- vantage, and on a very extensive scale. The land is 190 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799- pretty equally divided in the cultivation of wheat, barley, peas. £c., nearly as in England. But it is remarkable that the plough which they use, and have used for two hundred years — called the Helsingland plough — is the very same which the Agricultural Society lately introduced into England. They chiefly used yoked oxen, which work through land lately cleared of wood and studded with large stones and roots, in a surprising manner. They raise their fur- rows very imperfectly in the middle, making cross cuts and sweeps to carry off the moisture, which docs it very imperfectly. The climate is well adapted for reindeer. One of these we saw at Ekolsund, where he has been kept some time, being bought from some Laps, who sometimes come as far south as Stockholm. It is a dark brownish -grey, the horns pointed, two fiat lying back, and two forward ; he is the size of a fallow-deer, and stretches up his head when he runs in a singular manner. His pace is a rough trot, and his hoofs almost as large as those of an ox, with dew-claws, spreading when he runs, to prevent him from sinking in the snow. The accounts of his speed are much exaggerated. He can go seATcnty miles a-day for three or four days, but is sure to be killed by it. After three or four hours they tire; the least weight annoys them. The sledge is more properly a boat in every respect, and the common rate is about/or/?/ miles. In the woods here, besides game of all sorts, except wild boar, there are bears and abundance of wolves. While we were JET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 191 tli ere a flock of six or eight came so close to the house that the watch shot at them; and they constantly destroy the dogs, &c., if they go any distance from home. The elk is sometimes met with, a creature of great size, though harmless. In the king's menagerie they have one, twenty hands high to the back. There are also lynxes of two sorts, both beasts of prey, and valuable for their furs. Of game-birds we have here cocdubois, a large and excellent bird ; the snoripa, moor-game, and, above all (from the north), the xerpar, a small bird about the size of a chicken, quite white, and exceedingly delicate, sometimes car- ried as far as Paris, and sold for two guineas apiece. At Ekolsund there is a runic stone with an inscrip- tion, bearing that it had been erected by Gotho, widow of an ancient hero, to his memory ; also that the same hero had been the founder of Ekolsund, by its old name of Harvista. Besides several runic re- mains scattered up and down the country, they still make in Norlad the runic sticks or almanacs, which were formerly used, and which represent the proper- ties, &c., of the months by hieroglyphics. Ekolsund was built by Count Jott, one of Gustavus Adolphus's generals. From Ekolsund we went to Upsala in a carriage lent us by Seton, and accompanied by Mr Halsted, who was educated there, and knew everybody. After travelling through a flat country, we arrived at Up- sala, and sent our letters, waiting for that night in a snug though poor inn enough, called the Cellar or IQ2 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. Skellar. In the next room, where a great number of the students have an ordinary, they sung the whole time almost — some of them extremely well, but in general without words. The " Marseillaise " was the most conspicuous tune, and oftenest repeated. The town stands in the middle of a very fine plain, on a river small but bright, the hill on which the castle is situated standing almost alone. The town counts about 5000 inhabitants, is built chiefly of wood, and interspersed with gardens. The four principal streets meet in a great square. The cathe- dral is a very large pile of building, though of brick ; it has two towers of copper, which make a fine appear- ance. It contains the tomb of Gustavus Vasa (whom the king lately exhumed, and found well preserved), St Eric, the families of Geer and Stuve ; Archbishop Menandi, a very elegant one, erected by his son, M. de Fredenheim ; and Linneus, lately put up. It is composed of one block of Swedish porphyry and a me- dallioD of the great man. The altar-piece is very fine. We then saw the public hall or theatre, where an oration was holding, by Professor Gotling, on the birth of the prince, in Latin, written by a professor. Then the library, which is a large collection, but dis- appoints one in point of rare old books, when one considers that Gustavus Adolphus pillaged from the German libraries, and all the treasures of these were lodged here. We saw, however, the celebrated Silver Book (Codex argenteus) or Gothic Testament, which has made so much noise. It is the only Gothic e. 2, 1808. " MY DEAR LORD GREY, — Knowing that any little thing one happens to hear in town is worthy of notice to the unfortunate persons who live in the country, I just put down what occurs, however unimportant in itself, when I have a moment of respite from John Doe and Eichard Roe. " Touching Spain, I am more sanguine to-day than I have ever been, which you will not be surprised at (though most people might), because it is founded on your own view very nearly. The Spaniards have been beaten, but certainly after such stiff fighting as I never had expected. If their spirit continues equal, or nearly equal, to this last exhibition of it, I shall liaAre scarcely any fears. Government is still quite as desponding as formerly. In truth their fears are founded on their wishes. " It is quite certain that there was a flirtation, if not an intrigue, with the Doctor; but Lord Ellenborough is MT. 31.] AND SIR JOHN MOORE. 419 represented by people who dined with him yesterday as exceedingly factious and violent. " Having received a sort of complimentary message from Miranda, I went to see him — rather to prevent his coming to see me, than from any wish to make his acquaintance — but I found him very clever and entertaining, and frank about his own plans and secrets, in a degree that is only to be found among finished adventurers (at least so I have generally found them).* He is furious at the ministry, though he seems still to be connected with them ; admits that he and Wellesley were on the eve of setting out for South America with an army, when the Spanish deputies arrived ; curses the folly of this government in changing their certain plans in New Spain for any such chances as Old Spain affords ; and denies that an army is the right way of aiding the Spaniards. He mixes a good deal of truth with much narrow, Pe- ruvian, and selfish error on the subject; but I was struck with one argument on the small numbers of the patriots. ' Cadiz has 100,000 inhabitants ; it is said to be full of patriots ; and all Andalusia is open : yet they have raised a battalion of galley-slaves from the hulks and prisons of that town ! ' His details of the French commissariat are curious and frightful. It is on the plan of the flying artillery, and organised with infinite nicety and care. Miranda was, you know, second in command at Jemmappes, and says the sys- * Don Francisco Miranda, a Spanish soldier and politician of great renown in his age, 420 PENINSULAR WAR [1808. tern was formed in that campaign. I should like to know whether you had any communication with him when you were in office. " Sydney Smith found in Yorkshire a sixteenth edition of Plymley, five cheap ones having been sold in the "West Biding.* " The last review — about Cevallos — has given infi- nite offence here, but in Edinburgh I learn that both friends and foes are offended. "The Hollands are retrograde, as appears from letters. Ward, his uncle says, has arrived at Bath, but I have not heard from him. " The faint attempts at defending the convention and the ministry, which their papers began, have died a natural death. They now turn their whole force against the ' Edinburgh Keview/ which every one ministerial newspaper has now been attacking almost daily for above a week. They have set on new hands to this work, some people think Cooke — some Ward. •"Ferguson's story of the despatch about Moore not being received till after the 1 7th, turns out erroneous, as we suspected. The re-embarkation at Mondego is correct. He (Ferguson) says Wellesley could not produce his case in Burrard's absence, for it consists in throwing the whole blame on Burrard's refusal to allow their pursuit. Burrard is to put all on want of cavalry. The Duke of York will be with him, I pre- sume, so here is a new scrape for Government. Charles * The celebrated 'Letters from Peter Plymley to his Brother Abraham,' anonymous, but well known to be the work of Smith. JET. 31.] AND SIR JOHN MOORE. 421 Adam, who brought home L'Oison, says they talk of the business exactly as the people here do. " Seeing nobody but dull lawyers, and conversing only about pleas and issues, I assure you writing a letter to you is a very great luxury, as it approaches to tolerable society. This must excuse the length and unimportance of the present letter ; and the paper and ink, which make it nearly illegible, must be set down to the account of the coffeehouse where it is written. — Believe me, dear Lord Grey, ever your faithful friend, "HENRY BROUGHAM/' TO EARL GREY. "TEMPLE, Dec. 14, 1808. "DEAR LORD GREY, — I take it for granted the melancholy accounts given of affairs in Spain by Moore and Graham in their private letters must have reached you ; but as they are very important in con- sidering the whole question, I shall state their sub- stance in case you should not have heard it. Moore by letter to Abercromby, of date November 26, says the army had advanced well and comfortable in every respect, but that the people were quite indifferent and torpid, not well disposed to us. He adds that he hears everywhere of Spanish armies, but sees none, and that the inactivity of the Central Junta is quite fatal. Graham (with Castanos) writes to T. Grenville the same account, and that the Spanish armies are very small in number. I fear the truth is that the enthusiasm has partly evaporated ; that 422 PENINSULAR WAR [1808. the Junta have been too sanguine and supine, that they have not been half revolutionary enough, and that the moment is irrevocably gone when the people might have been made to save the country. Allen's last letter to Sydney Smith admits that the Junta has acted with shameful remissness, and that it childishly thought Joseph's flight was the end of the business. " But our ministers are more to blame than even I had thought, for they squandered away the golden opportunity, which now appears to have been so short and so irretrievable. " The ministry give all up for lost, and seem re- solved to abandon the nonsensical plan of a stand in Portugal. A stand in Andalusia may still be at- tempted. William Harrison (of the Treasury) abuses them loudly, and declaims against them for blind- folding the country, and the country for liking to be blindfolded. He allows all our blunders in the exe- cution as well as the plan, and cries out for a Span- ish revolution as the only salvation of Europe. Such rebellious talk in the Treasury is ominous ; in truth Ave see at present an odd spectacle — the Government deserted by all, even its own followers and friends, \vho only rest its case on the unpopularity of their adversaries. I trust that the ensuing session will remove this only prop of the ministry. You have the game in your own hands, and I doubt not that both the constituent parts of the great body which you lead, will agree in such a view of the subject as may JET. 31.] AND SIR JOHN MOORE. 423 enable your particular branch to regain some of its former popularity, a thing easy in itself, as well as highly important to both the party and the country. Wellesley is raising his head, and ministers too are going to crow over Burrard. They, and not he, never- theless, are to blame, but this must really be speedily enforced in Parliament, otherwise it will be disbelieved by the country. They are to give him a court-martial. —In great haste. Ever yours truly, " H. BROUGHAM." TO EAEL GEEY. " December 15, 1808.1 " DEAR LORD GREY, — I snatch a moment, as usual during dinner, to say that I have just seen H. Bouverie, who tells me his regiment, which was coun- termanded yesterday, is re-ordered to-day ; that this is said at the office to be owing to a telegraph from Plymouth, announcing from the authority of the Indefatigable, which was off the Spanish coast, that Baird, Moore, and Romana are joined ; which minis- ters believe, and disbelieve the French bulletins at the same time. " This seems rather improbable ; but one thing is certain, every degree of confusion reigns at the offices. All are at cross purposes, and complain that they have no head, and no arrangement to help them. The prevailing belief now is that Mulgrave and Castlereagh will go by the board; and I heard of preparations in Canning's office for his departure. 424 PENINSULAR WAR [1808. " I lament nothing so much as the want of a state- ment such as I once wrote to you about, and feel my conscience smite me for suffering even the law to prevent me from doing it myself. But there is no help for impossibilities. It will be better done by debates. — In haste, yours, &c. H. BROUGHAM. " P.S. — Bulletin from Admiral Young's secretary at Plymouth. " News up to December 3d. Junta going to Toledo. No doubt of Hope and Eomana joining Moore. Eomana at Seco, having collected 20,000 of Blake's army." TO EARL GREY. " December 16, 1808. " DEAR LORD GREY, — The post is just going ; but as there are different rumours about the fatal news, and some deny it, I write this to assure you it is as bad as possible. A letter from Allen, December 1, 8 P.M. (Corunna), says that advice had just arrived of Castaiios's total defeat, and Moore and Baird's retreat, the former to Ciudad Rodrigo, the latter to Gallicia — ' by directions from Castanos himself !! I copy this literally, with the two (!!). This is the whole letter, and being to Perry (who showed it to me), I am confident Allen did not write it rashly.* " Ronald Ferguson saw the people at the offices to- day, and Hope of the Admiralty yesterday. They * Perry, well known as the editor of the ' Morning Chronicle/ JET. 31.] AND SIR JOHN MOORE. 425 believe in the whole of the worst parts of the news, and say that Government have it in Baird's de- spatches. Hope says the shipping is ordered round to Yigo to take in Baird. Ferguson is giving over his brigade for lost, it being with General Hope at Madrid. — In haste, yours ever, H. BROUGHAM." TO EARL GREY. " WOOLBEDING, January 4, 1809. " MY DEAR LORD GREY, — I rejoice greatly on ac- count of the country that you are coming to town ; but I must say if your health is one of the causes of it, as I understood from Petty, I had much rather have heard of your wintering at Ho wick. I am the more disappointed at this, if correct, because your friends had of late been flattering themselves with the prospects of your complaints being entirely re- moved. " I have been here these three days, and return to- morrow to town ; but having heard from London, and before I left it, some things which seem authentic, I shall set them down. " The regency story is not perhaps true, but I really believe it had some foundation. It was talked of at Mansfield's (the chief justice) the other day in a Tory company, among whom was the attorney- general, and no sort of contradiction was given to it by anybody ; only all agreed in lamenting that ' so excellent a woman as the queen is in private life,' should allow herself to be so much under the prince's PENINSULAR WAR. [1809. influence. I suspect, therefore, that the project was entertained at Windsor, and went off on some objec- tion about the Duke of York. I should add that Lord Robert Spencer's man, Kent (whom he gave an office to, and who is much about the public offices), says he heard it still talked of at the Treasury as a tiling to be brought forward. I miess this to be o O O untrue, however. A very odd thing happened the other day. A report of the king's death prevailed so much that black rose in price, and the tailors were all in confusion, buying and running about. It was spread all over this part of the country as certain; yet the Archbishop of Canterbury told Mansfield he never had seen the king better than on Christmas day. It strikes me as possible that there may, nevertheless, have been some alarm, perhaps an un- founded one, among them ; and this would account both for the talk of a regency among themselves, and for the strange report of a dissolution of Parliament which prevailed about the same time. " I have a letter from Allen at Yigo, dated December 13. They are going to Lisbon by land, and expect to winter in Andalusia, riot having heard of Madrid being taken. But I conclude you have received letters from themselves by the same conveyance. " A few days ago the intention of the ministry was to defend Lisbon, and sixty pieces of cannon, with engineers, &c., were embarking, as Ferguson ,'Kssured me. Whether the advance of Baird and JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 427 Moore has changed their plan I know not, but the report among the Guards at Portsmouth is, that they are going under Spencer to Cadiz. This is a wiser plan certainly. Indeed, notwithstanding all the san- guine expectations of the London folks, I shall be greatly surprised if Moore ventures between Bona- parte and Soult, at least if the statements of their force are correct. I hear Lord Grenville is decidedly of opinion that the whole conduct of Government must be fully discussed, as he objects to everything they have done ; and Wickham is, if possible, more desponding about Spain than ever. But this you have of course heard directly from Dropmore. — Believe me, &c. H. BROUGHAM." TO EARL GREY. " January 6, 1809. " MY DEAR LORD GREY, — . . . The Hollands were at Oporto on the 26th of December, and give, I understand, a bad account of the Portuguese, which can surprise nobody. The ministers affect to speak with great admiration of Moore's retreat, but their supporters keep cavilling at him. Lord Melville is certainly to speak at first against Government, but I fancy his opposition will be a very qualified one. He has desired his friends to stay away, and I know several who have complied. Ferguson was to have gone to Corunna in the ship which was appointed to convey the expedition, but it is stopped, and both he and Harry Bouverie are now at Woolbeding. I presume 428 PENINSULAR WAR. [1809. the whole are to be sent round to Cadiz. Was there ever such wavering, childish behaviour yet seen, even upon ordinary occasions, as the ministers have shown through the whole of this greatest of all affairs ? 11 Lord Moira is much praised for his view of the convention, but some wonder is expressed at his joining in the vote about zeal, &c. The extravagant praise of Lord Moira in the ' Courier,' and their con- stant attacks on ministry, are very curious. Huskis- son says the ' Courier ' is an unmanageable paper, and I suppose it looks merely or chiefly to its sale ; so that its attacks are rather a symptom of public opinion than of any disunion among the ministers. —Always yours, most faithfully, II. BROUGHAM." TO EAEL GREY. " Saturday evening, six o'clock, " January 21, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — I have only a moment to say that the arrival of Charles Stewart (Castlereagh's brother) seems a proof that Moore's army is out of danger ; though certainly the transports had not all arrived, but were coming into Corunna, and there is a report that the news brought by Stewart is bad. It seems to be certain that we have lost considerably in constant skirmishes ; and that all our artillery is gone. One account says, all the troops, except one regiment, had embarked when Stewart came. This is not true. The utmost extent of the ministerial in- JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 429 formation is that the cavalry had embarked. Sense- less stories are told by people in office, such as Brod- rick, whom I heard mention, with much exultation, that the Duke del Infantado had retaken Madrid, and that Moore was occupying a position, and mak- ing a stand, a diversion, and I know not what, at Corunna — and without his artillery ! ! " If he waited three days at Corunna for trans- ports, Bonaparte must either have been in smaller force than is supposed, or must have gone to Vigo. The date of Moore's despatches is January 11. " The Hollands at Lisbon, on the 4th, only heard that day of Madrid being taken. H. BROUGHAM." 430 CHAPTER VIII. f&ome antr Jfamgn ISoItttcs, 1809. 1HE PENINSULAR WAR SIR JOHN MOORE, HIS RETREAT AND DEATH VICTORY AT CORUNNA INQUIRY INTO THE CONDUCT OF THE DUKE OF YORK FRENCH AND AUSTRIAN WAR ON THE DANUBE FRANCE AND SPAIN HOME POLITICS— ATTEMPT TO FORM A COALITION MINISTRY— SPENCER PERCEVAL AND EARL GREY CANNING CRITICISMS ON THE CONDUCT OF THE WAR IN THE PENINSULA THE PRINCESS OF WALES AND CANNING — CANNING, CASTLEREAGH, AND LORD WELLESLEY ESTIMATE OF SIR JOHN MOORE. "January 23, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — You will naturally be anxious about this sad news."* E. Ward and Harrison say GOO men were killed. Baird died of his shot. Bag- gage, &c., gone ; though Lord Taget hopes the artil- lery may be in part saved. But it is admitted that the debris of the army must come home. 3100 were embarking safely when he came away. Craufurd and 4000 gone to Vigo, but not heard of. Greenwood says we lost 5000 or GOOO altogether on the retreat. f The retreat of Sir John Moore ; his death ; and the luittle of Coruimji. Sir David 1'aird lost an arm, luit recovered. JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 431 Brand * showed me a letter from Graham, t who was with him, dated 13th January. He states that the French refused battle when offered at Lugo ; that the English army is unfit for anything but fighting ; harassed by all wants, and by disease from climate and fatigue, and dying in great numbers. Of course this is before the battles. " Altogether, I imagine a more disastrous affair has seldom been known. " Buonaniti has just received a letter from the Hol- lands, at Lisbon. They are to go from thence to Gibraltar. This is, to be sure, just the proper time for running about from port to port, and seeking any- thing rather than home. I suppose they are now pre- pared to believe everything, except the real presence ; for their frequent disappointments seem never to un- deceive them, or to lessen their faith. — In haste, "H. BROUGHAM." TO THE EAEL GEEY. " January 24, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — I understand the despatches are come, but contain nothing more than Lord Paget brought. The loss of the army is great on the retreat ; but its abominable conduct in plundering, murdering, &c., &c., is much worse. So much for Lord Cathcart and Copenhagen. This I learn from one who was with the army the whole way, and an officer of rank. " The Spaniards, who disliked us at first, of course *• Afterwards Lord-Dacre. t Afterwards Lord Lynedoch. 432 HOME AND FOREIGN POLITICS, 1809. [1809. now detest us, in that part of Spain at least. The information of all our emissaries — Frere, Stuart, Dyer, &c., &c. — is described as having been ridiculously in- correct; and the want of information in our army from spies, &c., is quite unintelligible. My informant says all the bribes in our military chest could not get the Spaniards to give any intelligence. Our men plundered our own ammunition, provisions, &c. Lord Paget lost his whole property in this way. Three men were just going to be executed for these things and others, when the French attacked us, luckily for the culprits. The army was drawn up to witness the execution. " Sir Arthur Wellesley says the loss at embarking was about 1000 ; K. Ward, 600. I believe the former is nearer the truth. " The 4000 under Craufurd were heard from at St Jago ; and it was supposed they could get safe off, there being no tidings of any French thereabouts. Junot commanded the attack. He sent back three women prisoners before the battle ; with compliments from ' Jun6t and the army of Portugal/ The Hol- lands are going by land to Seville ; I really wish they may not get into a scrape, though they do deserve a good fright. " Poor Vincent ! What a sudden and melancholy fate ! They are of course all in great distress. It was the first thing Lady Kosslyn heard on her arrival; and you may believe she was dreadfully affected, though she exerts herself with great forti- tude. I seriously think Lord Lauderdale should not JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 433 put his name to the East India pamphlet.* Do advise him not to do so, if it strikes you in the same way. Everybody objects to his writing it at all, but perhaps that is going too far, though there is some- thing in it. As to the want of a name, we can easily puff it into proper notice and supply such a defect. It might, and indeed must, soon be known; but in the mean time its whole effect will have been pro- duced without the impediment arising from the feel- ings in question. Pray do not expose yourself to cold in this most dreadful weather. I saw an instance the other day of the effects. H. B." Lord Grey had, throughout this period of the war in Spain, been strongly impressed with what he con- sidered the gross mismanagement of our affairs, and the incapacity of ministers. He was persuaded that Spain would never have ventured to disturb the French army behind the Ebro, well knowing that reinforcements were surely at hand, and that while the Spaniards were suffering under a most feeble government, our ministers were sending a British army into the heart of the Peninsula to march to cer- tain destruction. The case against our rulers was no exaggeration of political opponents or of party feeling ; it was clearly proved by the very papers laid before Parliament by ministers themselves. Their defence * Perhaps the pamphlet, or rather book, by Lord Lauderdale, called * The Government of India under the Superintendence of the Board of Control.' Edinburgh, 1809. VOL. T, 2 E 434 HOME AND FOREIGN POLITICS. [1809. was by no attempt at justification, but by blaming or criticising the measures of the very officers they had themselves selected for command; and all this time while they had at their disposal a force amply suffi- cient to have rescued Spain, if the proper use had only been made of it at the proper time. Lord Grey, in April 1809, brought the whole sub- ject before Parliament, with that great ability which he of all men best knew how to apply, to make intel- ligible details of the most complicated description; but in spite of the dignified eloquence, the admirable temper he displayed, so peculiarly appropriate in deal- ing with so delicate a subject, our legislators decided against him. The object of Lord Grey's motion was to represent to the Crown the disgrace which the proceedings of the Government had brought upon England, and the injury which the British nation had suffered from the rashness and mismanagement of ministers, culminat- ing in the loss of more than 7000 of our bravest troops, together with their gallant commander, — all sacrificed in an enterprise conceived without plan, combination, or foresight, without a single possible advantage, and as ill-timed as misdirected. The wisdom of Parliament decided otherwise, and after a debate, in which Lord Grey was fairly supported by Lord Moira, and feebly by Lord Erskine, his motion was defeated by a considerable majority, and it was solemnly decided that the projectors and con- ductors of the campaign deserved the confidence of JET. 31.] . PENINSULAR WAR. 435 the country, and were the most fitting men to be in- trusted with the conduct of its affairs. Connected with these disastrous times there was no subject which more deeply interested and affected both Lord Grey and myself than the conduct of the Government in regard to Sir John Moore. His judg- ment and skill were only surpassed by his unconquer- able valour ; nothing was more remarkable than the matchless self-denial which on all occasions rendered his own interests subservient to his country's good, and concentrated all his faculties in her service, mak- ing him a bright example to the most famous warriors of after times, when the wretched intrigues that sought to keep him in the background, or to crush him, had passed away but had not been forgotten, when in future times it would be remembered that the hero of Corunna had fought no vain battles, had lost no trophies, no captives, had abandoned no hospitals to the enemy, had yielded no post of danger to feeble allies. Yet this was the man who, endowed with all the qualities that constitute the most fitting leader of armies, having successfully held the chief command in Sicily and in Sweden, was placed under officers one of whom had never served in the field as a general. TO EARL GREY. " TEMPLE, June 19, 1809. " MY DEAR LORD GREY, — I write rather to ask how you and Lady Grey are than from having much to communicate. Is it true that you are going to Scot- 436 HOME AND FOREIGN POLITICS. [1809. land? and shall you be there, or in Northumberland, when our circuit passes through your part of the country \ Also, will you allow me to give Malthus (population) a few lines of introduction to you when he passes by Howick in the course of July on his way to Scotland ? He writes the serious articles on Ire- land in the ' Edinburgh Review/ " Of the Hollands you have probably heard lately. By a letter from Lord John Russell to the Duke, it appears that they refused to come home in the Ocean, because she sailed with convoy ; and are waiting for the ship which carries Lord Wellesley out. She has not yet sailed ; nor has Wellesley, I believe, left town; so that if the Hollands are home in a month or six weeks, it is as much as can be expected. " One is disposed to doubt this story of the King of Prussia coming forward ; he is a weak, undecided character, and he must be certain that, if he fails, he will lose not only the kind of a crown he now has, but his very livelihood. thinks it is not to be expected, and he is rather good authority : he saw Count Munster on Saturday, who knew nothing about the reports in circulation (which is pretty decisive as to them) ; and as for Ompteda coming over (the ground with many for believing those reports), the reason of it is his brother having lately gone mad, who is in the German Legion, and Ompteda comes to look after his affairs. " What do you think of the late victory1? for victory it certainly was, and a pretty considerable one. If it MT. 31.] WAR IN GERMANY. 437 had been decisive, however, what possibility was there of Bonaparte keeping his tSte du pout, and being en- abled to rebuild his bridges ? * The Austrian bulletin is universally admitted to be a fabrication. Stahrem- berg (who has never been much elated with the news) denied it from the first; and Lord Liverpool told Scarlett the other day that they knew it to be a French fabrication. This seems to be rather a re- finement. " If the victory has not been so decisive as of itself to turn the fortune of the campaign, it should seem that upon a series of subsequent operations Bonaparte is much more likely to get the better in the majority of instances. But it is no small thing, and I am sure quite unexpected, to have seen any doubt arise upon the subject. " What a pity it is that we had not a large army in the Adriatic at the time, or even now ! The talk of sending one somewhere continues ; and I know that General Leith has received orders to go to Chat- ham (I think) and report himself to General Hope. Some weeks ago its destination was certainly the north of Germany. I suppose now they are waiting for the event of the approaching battle. " The cries of the winter are wearing fast away, and I daresay the kind of apathy which always suc- ceeds is already begun. I am confident Wardle is dis- covered to be no wizard, and that Cobbett is seriously * In reference to the war on the Danube, and the capture of Vienna by the French in May 1809. 438 HOME AND FOREIGN POLITICS. [1809. damaged.'" His court-martial business is much against him, and would probably have been much more if Sir George Yonge had behaved with tolerable fairness and prudence. ' You promised to put down anything that sug- gested itself as hints for some new Plymleys. I think Sydney Smith will still fulfil his promise to me on that score, though his soreness upon the attacks lately made in the ' Quarterly Eeview ' may rather indispose him at present. I forgot to mention that General Murray is coming (if not come) home from Portugal. His wife says it is because nothing will be done in Portugal for some time ; but others ascribe it to pique against Wellesley. However, if active operations were likely soon to take place, he could scarcely come away for such a reason. — Believe me ever with the greatest esteem, most faithfully yours, "H. BROUGHAM." "HowicK, June 24, 1809. "My DEAR BROUGHAM, — I am much obliged to you for your letter of Monday last. We certainly shall be at home at the time the circuit passes this country. I have no thoughts of going into Scotland, and I hope you will give us as much of your time as you can in your way to the north. I shall be ex- ceedingly glad to see Malthus. " From what you say of the Hollands, nothing can * Colonel Wardle, now less known than Cobbett, was celebrated as the promoter of the inquiry into the conduct of the Duke of York. ^T. 31.] . WAR IN GERMANY. 439 be more uncertain than their return. Probably the ship that carries out Lord Wellesley will afterwards join Lord Collingwood. As I think the state of the Austrian war, whatever its ultimate result may be, likely for some time to prevent the sending any suffi- cient reinforcements to the French army in Spain, and as this may very probably occasion a second retreat behind the Ebro, I shall not be surprised to learn that her ladyship has determined to stay where she is till after her accouchement, which I suppose you know is approaching. I had a long letter from Holland in answer to my speech, or rather to misrepresentations of my speech, in the newspaper. It contained, in my opinion, a great deal of false reasoning, and in some instances rested on falsehoods : upon the whole, it was nearly in the same strain as the defence of the minis- ters, though he imputes considerable blame to them ; and I think it very lucky that he did not come home in time to announce any of these sentiments in Par- liament. . . . — Ever yours most truly, " GREY." TO EAEL GREY. "June 30, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — Lord Eosslyn having pro- mised to write to you yesterday, I did not, but I find he has been prevented by interruptions of various kinds, though he certainly will to-morrow. He is to have the advanced guard, but does not expect to be off for some weeks. He denies both the Duke of York and Burrard, but I am disposed to believe they 440 HOME AND FOREIGN POLITICS. [1809. are still making a push for the former, although Lord Chatham is certainly acting as if he were the man, and nobody can imagine how the report of Burrard arose. Indeed it is universally disbelieved. Brown- rigg's going as quarter-master-general certainly looks very like the Duke of York ; but is there any expe- dition so certain of succeeding as to make it even tolerably safe for the present ministers to send him ? To be sure, Lord Chatham is much worse, but his fail- ure would not hurt them so irretrievably. Lord G. Leveson is in the cabinet, and this is perhaps a dou- ceur to Canning for giving up his opposition to Lord Chatham or the Duke of York. I have it from un- doubted authority that he prevented them last year. "The destination of the force is as uncertain as when I wrote last. I still think it must be liable to alteration from the next news of the Austrian opera- tions ; but it is probably calculated in the mean time for some specific object ; perhaps Flushing and Ant- werp. There are two battering-trains. Such a thing is surely most absurd, unless all possibility of making a diversion in Germany is at an end. " Peace between Austria and France is much talked of, and certainly Stahremberg has been expressing great apprehensions of this. One should infer from such an extraordinary step (if it really is taken), that the late victory was much less considerable than it appears to have been. Charles Stuart (who is at JUida) writes the account which he had from the Primate of Hungary, who was in the battle. This mnkcs it 35,000. 20 generals disabled, 7 killed, &c. JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 441 " It is very unsafe to infer much from Bonaparte's present inactivity. He did nothing for months after Eylau and Baylen. "Malthus leaves Hertford to-day, and I suppose will call at Howick in the course of a week or ten days. " I shall write again to-morrow or Monday. Be- lieve me, &c. H. BROUGHAM." TO EARL GEEY. " July 4, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — There are letters from H. Bouverie, dated Abrantes, June 1 7. They are stopped for want of money, and must remain there a week or ten days. Victor had just sent his baggage, &c., through Truxillo, meaning to retreat by that way to Madrid. I guess Wellesley will be well enough pleased to let him do so. They complain of Cuesta's obstinacy, but say his army is more respectable than any that had appeared among the Spaniards. Mel- lish had been with despatches to him, and gives this account. You recollect what a bad one he gave of Silviera's, which is some reason for crediting his praises of Cuesta's. " An intercepted despatch to Joseph Bonaparte gives Junot leave to return to France, after he shall have fortified the bridge which commands Saragossa, planned a fort at Tudela, and sent all the spare artil- lery to France. This, with many of the other symp- toms, looks like retreating to the Ebro again until things are settled in Germany. 442 POLITICS. [1809. " We are full of Wardle and Mrs Clarke. Best;"- I hear, denies the statements in Wardle's letter to the people, and says he wrote him (Best) a note during the trial, leaving the calling Dodd, &c., entirely to his discretion. But this looks so like madness in Wardle that I shall not believe it to be Best's story until I inquire further about it. " Johnson the smuggler is about this expedition as well as Popliamrt This makes for Flushing, &c., Antwerp being its destination. " Lord Percy has been making a fool of himself at Cambridge, standing against the Duke of Gloucester O ' o O as Chancellor. H. BROUGHAM." TO EAEL GREY. " July 10, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — Nothing further is known of the Expedition, except that everybody seems agreed that its destination cannot be very distant, or its object likely to take a long time.J The orders are for each man to take two shirts only (one upon his back included), no women, aide-de-camps a single horse ; short allowance of hospital stores, some say one pair of shoes only, but this I have not from good authority. One is disposed still to conjecture Antwerp * Sergeant Best, afterwards created Lord TVynford, 5tli June 1829. lie was then Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas. t Captain Johnson, known as a daring adventurer, an ally of Lord Cuchrane, and deeply concerned in the alfair of the false news about the fall of Napoleon, for which Lord Cochrane suffered. I The Expedition to the Scheldt, sometimes called the Walcheren Expedition. JET. 31.] DUKE OF YORK'S CASE. 443 and Flushing ; though many talk of Brest. Brown- ing leaves town on the 14th, and Lord Kosslyn thinks it can't sail for three weeks, as they are waiting for those transports from Lisbon, for which a convoy had not been appointed on June 5th. The Duke of York's family are talking loudly against Lord Chat- ham's appointment, and they really have some reason. " The trial of Wright v. Wardle has excited great attention. Wardle says he is quite thunderstruck with the perjuries of Mrs Clarke, &c. — for that there is not, from beginning to end, a word of truth in the story. He is also outrageous against Best, for not calling Dodd, and otherwise mismanaging his case. We of the bar generally have a bad opinion of a man's cause when he begins to throw the blame on his counsel, but Wardle is to make some public manifesto immediately, and to prosecute Mrs Clarke, &c., for perjury. This will rather be funny, I think, but it will do Wardle more harm than it can do the Duke of York real good. — Believe me truly yours, " H. BROUGHAM." TO EAEL GREY. " July 12, 1809. " MY DEAR LORD GREY, — I am much obliged to you for your kind letter, by which I rejoice to find that you disbelieve in the reports of peace at Vienna. I have done so from the beginning, though I assure you it is the prevailing opinion here. My notion is that at present it would be too good for the Austrians. 444 WALCHEREN EXPEDITION [1809. It would indeed be their salvation ; and Bonaparte knows full well that he never could expect to see Vienna again if he left Austria at a moment when the regular troops have beaten him in the field, and the people in every quarter are in a state of insurrec- tion against him. He must fight again, I should think ; and if he is beat, it will go hard with him, though perhaps it won't be much worse than mak- ing peace at present. Negotiation will be always open, unless he is much more completely defeated than I fear we have any chance of seeing him. If he beats the archduke, he will then give him peace, but not such a one as he must give at present. " The Eussian army, according to General Ben- tham (now one of the Navy Board), consists of above 70,000. They are, of course, ill supplied and com- manded ; but when things are so nearly balanced, they may turn the scale. " This foolish expedition, I find, you view in the same light in which every rational being must see it. Flushing and Antwerp are certainly the objects (un- less some unexpected good news should come from Germany). I don't suppose there is much risk of its failing ; but the loss of men will be considerable by the military operations, and the climate at the mouth of the Scheldt, I understand, is peculiarly fatal at this season. This will, at any rate, prevent the army from doing good afterwards elsewhere. " A letter of Mellish to Ferguson gives a very favourable account of Cuesta;s army — 24,000 foot JET. 31.] AND PENINSULAR WAR. 445 and 8000 cavalry. He saw them manoeuvre, fire, &c., and speaks highly of them; but Cuesta, he says, is an obstinate, infirm old man. How many of the regiments he saw one does not know, and I daresay they showed him the best. — Believe me ever yours most faithfully, H. BROUGHAM." TO EAEL GREY. " CARLISLE, August 7, 1809. " MY DEAR LORD GREY, — H. Bouverie writes from Placenzia, July 12, that the French are moving to- wards them, and that Wellesley has been at Cuesta's headquarters concerting measures for attacking them. Victor's force he states at less than in his last letter, but I cannot see whether he calls it 30,000 or 40,000. However, from his saying that the event of the battle will depend on the Spaniards, and therefore must be doubtful, I conclude he means 40,000, for he says our army will amount to 28,000 when joined by Craufurd'g brigade and the horse-artillery, which they are waiting for. Our advanced-guard was ordered to move to meet Victor. " C. Stuart is arrived in town, much crippled with rheumatism, &c.* He talks most violently against the ministers for the whole of their conduct in Spain, and says that the article on Spain in the last ' Edin- burgh Eeview' is so true an account of the case respecting Spain, that the resemblance can only have arisen from chance. He and I have long lived on * See above, p. 92. 446 WALCHEREN EXPEDITION [1809. very intimate terms, Loth abroad (having travelled together) and at home; but we never agreed on any subject of politics, or indeed on any other ; so this con- fession comes from him very reluctantly, and he makes it witli a bad grace ; but he promises to give me a great deal of information, to convince me both as to the behaviour of our Government and the impos- sibility of anybody knowing the Spanish question except by pure haphazard. " I thought these things might interest you. I send in two separate covers an article on ' Reform/ which Jeffrey has written, but in which, though very able, he has committed some very great mistakes, I think. — Believe me, &c., H BROUGHAM." TO EAEL GREY. "APPLEBY, August 10, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — Lord Rosslyn writes to me as follows : ' Many circumstances have concurred to render the reduction of Flushing much more diffi- cult than / expected, and infinitely more so than was calculated upon. Huntley (who was destined for a separate service to secure the island of Cadsand) has hitherto been unable to effect a landing, and I believe he has shown great good sense and discretion in not attempting it. My division is the only one left on board. They speculate on the reduction of Flushing in ten days, and I am persuaded that nothing can or will be attempted till that is over/ He adds that he expects to be in England before the middle of Sep- JET. 31.] AND PENINSULAR WAR. 447 tember, and that lie has seen nothing hitherto to alter any opinion or view he had, before joining the expe- dition. You know he had a very poor opinion of it. " Ward is unexpectedly arrived in London, and says the Hollands were about to embark in the Lively. This agrees with Miss Fox's account. She had a letter from Lisbon of the 1 6th of July, saying they were to embark in the Lively, the "Wednesday fol- lowing. I suppose they are now in England, unless some change of mind has again happened. " Whishaw writes from town that no sort of elation is expressed at the capture of Walcheren, which was so confidently expected that it scarcely attracts the least attention. " I shall be glad to hear what you think of Moore's correspondence, after you have had time to read it* It gives a melancholy picture of the prospect in Spain, and I much fear the south is not greatly better. I expect to hear particularly about this from Charles Stuart. — Ever most faithfully and sincerely, "HENRY BROUGHAM." TO EARL GREY. " LANCASTER, August 11, 1809. " DEAR LORD GREY, — The following I copy from a letter I have just received from Charles Stuart : * Narrative of the Campaign in Spain by the Army commanded by Lieutenant-General Sir John Moore, with original letters. By James Moore, Esq. London : 1809. Reviewed by Lord Brougham, ' Edinburgh Review,' October 1809, Article 14. 448 PENINSULAR WAR. [1809. * The whole of our misfortunes in Spain may be as- cribed to the loss of the two precious months during which the French were behind the Ebro, when our ministers were solely occupied in discussions respect- ing that blockhead Sir Hew Dalrymple. During those months no communications took place with Spain. I never received one line from Government, and those beasts the Junta neither sought nor received advice. In short, Spain was as thoroughly forgotten as if it were at the bottom of the sea. I had indeed been told we should not interfere in the formation of the government, — a determination originating in the desire of ministers to shelter themselves from future blame in case of misfortune, and tantamount to the abandonment of a child at three years old by its parents, with directions to provide for itself in what- ever mode it may think most expedient/ " After some remarks on the necessity of our inter- fering, of which he maintains the whole Spanish nation would have highly approved, the letter proceeds : — " ' Wellesley's victory is a great thing as far as relates to the abstract proposition of one Englishman beating two Frenchmen, but with respect to the Spaniards serves only to prove them useless allies in their present state. It will do little for Spain, or even for the security of our army, if he is not able to ad- vance to Madrid, and to direct the population of that capital. Indeed he must go there if only to obtain provisions, horses, &c., whether to retreat or go for- ward. He will find nothing at Talavera. Marching JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 449 forward is preferable, because if lie retreats he must abandon wounded, artillery, &c., for want of means of transport. If he goes to Madrid, however, he must first drive the enemy from Toledo, and stand another action on the Guadarama, where they will probably make a last effort to save the capital. Having gained Madrid, he may retreat on La Mancha, if attacked by a superior force. " ' With respect to Austria, I fear she merely gives us breathing time. I think Bonaparte will leave the emperor Bohemia, Moravia, and part of Austria; Poland, Hungary, and the south are probably gone. The archduke's miserable indecision has ruined that country ; the soldier is good, the emperor excellent, but has not the courage to check the evils arising from his brother's influence. I am not quite sure that peace has taken place, though it probably will be the result of the present negotiations. My only hope rests on Stadion's continuance in office, and until I see his dismissal I shall be sure they have not com- plied with Napoleon's demands.* The emperor certainly opposed the armistice, but could not pre- vent it; indeed he appears to have had very little to say in the events, and subsequent to the affair of Wagram.' " I thought this letter might interest you. — Most faithfully yours, HENRY BROUGHAM." * Johann Philip Karl Joseph Stadion, Austrian statesman j born 1763, died 1824. VOL. I. 2 F 450 PENINSULAR WAR. [1809. FROM JOHN WHISHAW.* "Saturday, August 19, 1809. " DEAR BROUGHAM, — I am much obliged to you for your letter, which I have just received, and which was very acceptable, as I have been for some days very desirous of knowing your address, supposing the circuit to be ended. "The Hollands arrived last Saturday in good health and spirits, all of them looking very well, indeed much better for their journey. I went to them early this week, and am now there again, stay- ing for a few days. Their views of Spanish affairs are extremely rational — i.e., considerably desponding. They properly consider the question as in a great measure disposed of by the event of the Austrian war ; but they think it will be a conquest difficult to be retained, and inconvenient and embarrassing to the conquerors. Except in Biscay and among the mer- chants in some of the port-towns, there is, properly speaking, no French party. But there is in many places a great languor and indifference, and disposi- tion to side with the strongest party. Still there remains in the great body of the nation an excellent spirit, which deserves to be animated and called out by better leaders. The Junta appears to be feeble- ness itself, too numerous for an effective or strong Government, and too few for any purposes of popular representation ; for indeed they are in other respects altogether unfit. They are divided into committees * See above, p. 371. JET. 31.] PENINSULAR WAR. 45 1 of finance, war, interior government, &c., subject in important points to the control of the whole body. Old Jovellanos is an excellent and amiable man, of enlarged views and the most patriotic dispositions; but he is quite unfit, both by his temper and habits, for political management and intrigue, — even that portion of it without which no government can be conduct ed.* His influence, of course, is not very con- siderable; and though there are some others, parti- cularly Garay, the secretary of the Junta, and Calvo, of good talents and dispositions, with more activity than Jovellanos, yet, upon the whole, ihefeebles and pro- crastinators may be said to prevail. So much for their civil affairs. With respect to military talents, the want of them is sufficiently apparent in the whole scheme of their campaign, and almost in every battle that has taken place. Of all their generals, Blake, one of the most unfortunate, is supposed to be their best. Cuesta is much beloved by the soldiery, bra.ve and regardless of personal danger; but he is near seventy, of a violent temper, and of no military talents. They are anxious at Seville to get rid of him, and to supply his place by Albuquerque, a young man of high rank and great spirit, but without any military character. " With respect to Portugal I have heard them say * Don Gaspard Melchior de Jovellanos (or properly Jove-Llanos), born 1744, died 1811, a statesman and author. He translated part of Milton's * Paradise Lost' into Spanish. His name frequently appears in the political and literary correspondence of the time, though it is now nearly forgotten. 452 PENINSULAR WAR. [1809. little, except that the Government is most contemp- tible, and things in the most wretched state. The Spanish colonies in America are exceedingly well- disposed to the new order of things in the mother country (Buenos Ayres only except ed), and have fur- nished large supplies. " The Hollands are no believers in the original treason of Morla, and the deep plan for delivering up Madrid, so much talked of in the account of Moore's campaign. He is a great coward, and was probably frightened into submission, and afterwards went en- tirely over to the French cause.'" Charmilly also was a mere adventurer, and highly improper to be trusted by Frere ; but no spy or traitor. In these opinions they were confirmed yesterday by Charles Stuart, who dined at Holland House yesterday. We had also at dinner the new Secretary at War (Lord Palmerston), who was silent and reserved, as became a Cabinet minister and man of fashion. " But it was still apparent, notwithstanding his discretion and reserve, that they have no great hopes from the Scheldt expedition. It is generally under- stood that this is more a concern of the king than the ministry, his Majesty having been gratified with the nomination of the staff in return for his acquies- cence iii the appointment of Sir A. Wellesley to the chief command in Spain. * Don Thomas Morla, born 1752, died 1820, a Spanish officer, with an adventurous personal career, which subjected him to many accusa- tions. A brief and distinct account of his strange career, by M. Adrien ii^es and Mrs Ward. " The company, all "but Mrs Ward, dined afterwards at the Griskin Club, which then met at a tavern in the Abbey." '•'Mr Digges" and "Mrs Ward" were professional actors of celebrity in their day. VII. (p. 40.) John Clerk of Eldin, the elder, died at an advanced age in 1812. lie was for sonic years a Baron of the Exchequer in Scotland. He had an early passion for the life of a sailor, but circumstances did not permit his indulging it, except in the study. His celebrated work on ' Xaval Tactics,' concerning the theory of the breaking of the enemy's line, was first printed for distribution among his private friends. It was published in 1790, and a second edition appeared in 1804. There is a memoir of Clerk and a commentary on his system by Professor Playfair in the eighth volume of the 'Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh.' His son John, who was for some time a judge of the Court of Session, had a reputation in his day of a different kind. He was a wit and pun- ster, but he carried these accomplishments into the range of wild and sometimes indecorous buffoonery. There was something peculiarly national in his sallies, and they were always watched for and reported with avidity. Perhaps no man in his day in Scotland was more popular, except Scott. When he became a judge of the Court of Session in 1823, he took from the paternal estate the title of Lord Eldin, saying that the difference between him and the Chancellor was "all in my i." He died in 1832. Many characteristic notices of him will bo found in ' Peter's Let- ters,' Lockliart's ' Life of Scott,' and Cockburn's ' Life of Jeilrey.' VIII. (p. G7.) In the long debate in the Commons in March 1809, on the motion for taking into consideration the minutes of evidence in the inquiry as to the conduct of the Duke of York as commander-in- chief, Lord Folkestone addressed the House on the 10th, following Mr Leach. This speech was remarkable as containing an indignant remonstrance against efforts to shield the duke, by crushing some APPENDIX OF NOTES. 543 of the humble witnesses who gave testimony against him. Canning, who is spoken of as praising the speech, was severely handled in it. It will be found in Hansard, xiii. 299. IX. (p. 87.) In the roll of members of the Speculative Society there is entered : — "316. Henry Brougham. Admitted, November 21, 1797; ex- traordinary, December 2, 1800 ; honorary, April 19, 1803. Essays : — Political Remarks on the Union ; The Balance of Power ; Indirect Influence of the People ; Influence of Na- tional Opinion on External Relations ; An Examination of certain Plans that are at present entertained of cultivating the Crown Lands in the Ceded Islands." The third essay has been preserved. It is written in a bold, peculiar hand, in which one would at once recognise the germ of the peculiarities which distinguished it in later life, though it is naturally far more legible. The subject afforded scope for the rhetorical powers the author had been cultivating, and the following conclusion will perhaps be sufficient to show that he had done so with success : — "Before concluding these few desultory observations, it may not be improper to take notice of a consequence which will perhaps occur to some as deducible from them. It may be said that if the measures directly taken by a government — the laws, for instance, which are passed, — only derive force from submitting to the assim- ilating power of the constitution, it becomes a matter of little consequence strenuously to exert those rights of opposition which a popular form secures. Thus, it is acknowledged that laws, if too severe, are not put into execution — if too mild, their bounds are apt to be exceeded; and if they arm any one branch with power hostile to the spirit of the constitution, there is no fear of that power being exerted. But it should be remembered that the laws have an indirect influence themselves — that though arising from circum- stances, they react in their turn — and that they may gradually lead to a state of things in which the controlling power of the whole body may be much impaired. It is no doubt true that whilst we retain that general diffusion of knowledge for which this age and 544 APPENDIX OF NOTES. these countries are so eminently distinguished, and, above all, whilst those impressions of freedom remain which have produced such mighty effects in the situation of modern Europe, we have no reason to dread the establishment of those despotic governments which debase our species in other climes. But it is no less true that there are degrees of freedom, and that a people maybe cajoled out of its most valuable rights by sinking into a careless security, whence it may not be roused till too late for its peace. In the mean time, so long as there remains that watchful jealousy of the prerogative which seems to be naturalised in Great Britain, and whose vast importance to her liberties may be estimated by the unremitting pains that have been taken to lull it asleep, we may rest assured that no Court intrigues, no ministerial influence, no majorities in parliamentary forces, not even standing armies them- selves, shall prevail against our happy constitution. That consti- tution consists, not in statutes, for these may be repealed — -nor in charters, for these may be revoked — nor in forms, for even these fences may be broken through, — but it is installed in the hearts of those whose fathers shed their best blood for it. And along with that inheritance, they received the swords which had been drawn in its defence. And these swords were accompanied with the solemn injunction of the great American patriarch — an injunction which they still keep in mind, however they may on some occa- sions have neglected it — ' ]STot to unsheathe them for the purpose of shedding blood, except it be for self-defence, or in defence of their country and its rights, and in the latter case to keep them unsheathed, and prefer falling with them in their hands to the rel incjuishment thereof. ' " X. (P. 91.) A sketch of Lord Brougham by an eyewitness, at this period of his life, is found in a quarter where it would scarcely be looked for : ' A Visit to Germany and the Low Countries, by Sir Arthur Brook Faulkener.' He says: " Brougham was then distinguished for the same gift of sarcasm which has since made him the terror of the senate; yet was he one of the best-humoured fellows breath- ing— full of fun and frolic." And coming to particulars, Sir Arthur tells the followirg story : — APPENDIX OF NOTES. 545 " A party of us had supped in the rooms of a Dr Parry, the brother of the circumnavigator. After supper, as we were crossing the South Bridge, we chanced to be witness of a very disgraceful scene — a mob of idle scoundrels (most of them bakers) beating an unfortunate woman with a brutal ferocity. It was impossible to stand by and not make some attempt towards her deliverance. The tumult, in place of abating by our interference, grew frightful. All the watchmen within hail were about our ears in an instant, and, in return for our chivalry, lodged us all fast in the watch- house. The Chancellor possibly never found himself in a position less congenial to his taste and habits ; but even here a mind so avaricious of knowledge was not to be unemployed. Among our associates in this vile prison, which was filled with the refuse of both sexes, an old soldier sat cowering over the embers of a fire that ' taught light to counterfeit a gloom.' He had campaigned it in the American war ; and with this hero our embryo candidate for the Woolsack picked up an acquaintance, and continued during the whole space of our durance extracting all he could on the favourite theme of his martial exploits — the names of the several officers under whom he served, the amount of the forces opposed to each other in particular engagements, the scene of battles, position of the combatants, skill of the manoeuvres, ad- vantages, reverses ; in short, everything that was likely or not likely to come within the veteran's ken was asked and responded to. So passed our night, until it pleased Aurora to leave her saffron couch ; when, by Brougham's interference, we were set at large by a sort of general jail delivery." — I. 246, 247. XI. (p. 91.) There is an amusing confirmation of this incident in the local literature of the day. The author of the condemned play made a frantic appeal to the world against the condemnation, with no better effect than to confirm the justice of the sentence and widen its publicity. In the collection of some of the curious in literature there may be found a small volume, with the title, ' St Kilda in Edinburgh, or News from Camperdown ; a Comic Drama in Two Acts, with a Critical Preface. Edinburgh, 1798.' The piece de- serves all that is said against it in the text, and more. According VOL. I. 2 M 546 APPENDIX OF NOTES. to its clumsy plot, a lovely damsel from St KUda finds herself unprotected in Edinburgh, because her brother and lover are in Admiral Duncan's fleet. An old profligate begins his plots against her by starting a report that the Dutch have been victorious and are on their way to Edinburgh. Suddenly the brother and lover appear on the scene. They bring officially the news of the victory at Camperdown ; they have both been promoted from before the mast to be commissioned officers ; and they act the deus ex machind in putting everything right. Robert Heron, the author of the play, had a literary career of his own. The eclipse of his dramatic ambition might perhaps have been mentioned with more sympathy in the text had his sad history been known to the author. It was too obscurely wretched to come naturally in the way of a man with a great career ; but it served to help Isaac Disraeli to a picture for his * Calamities of Authors.' Heron had a ready pen, such as it was, and was prepared to under- take any task. It was his misfortune that when he found himself master, or likely to be in the course of time master, of a hundred pounds, he set up his carriage and troop of footmen, as one whose fortunes were in the ascendant. Among his multifarious literary achievements, one was a history of Scotland in six volumes. It is suggestive of the amount of research that . might suffice for his- tory-writing at that period, that a great part of this work was composed from such materials as the author could command in a debtor's prison. XII. (p. 92.) In the journey described in the narrative (p. 92 et seq.),tla.e author had for his companion, Charles Stuart, eldest son of Sir Charles Stuart, who was the fourth son of John, third Earl of Bute. Lord Brougham's travelling companion, not only on this excursion, but afterwards in the tour he took in Sweden and Norway, was per- haps the most intimate friend he ever had ; a friendship in no way impaired by the wide difference of their political views. XIII. (p. 108.) This letter, apart from its other attractions, is a substantial ad- dition to our scanty literature relating to St Kilda. A century earlier — in 1 698 — we have ' A Voyage to Saint Kilda, the remotest APPENDIX OF NOTES. 547 of all the Hybrides or Western Isles of Scotland,' by M. Martin, Gent. If we are to believe both accounts, the inhabitants had grievously degenerated in civilisation since Mr Martin's visit, as the summary of contents will suffice to show, announcing an ac- count of " their genius for poetry, music, and dancing ; their sur- prising dexterity in climbing the rocks and walls of houses ; diver- sions, habit, good language, diseases and methods of cure, their extensive charity, their contempt of gold and silver as below the dignity of human nature, their religious ceremonies, notions of spirits and visions, &c. &c." For notices of more recent visits to St Kilda, see ' The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland,' by John Macculloch, 1824, vol. ii. p. 168 ; and 'A Voyage Eound the Coast of Scotland and the Isles,' by James Wilson, 1847, vol. ii. XIV. (p. 130.) The accuracy of this sketch of social and political life will not be obvious to those whose knowledge of the country is limited to the Denmark of the present day. That the leaders of Danish society pay an extreme homage to Court decorations and etiquette is generally believed; but we are not accustomed in the present generation to think of their king as absolute and irresponsible; but so he was towards the conclusion of the eighteenth century. The term used by the author to estimate his capacity for personal government is strong, but it only concurs with the evidence we otherwise have of the intellectual condition of King Christian VII. The whole will be found in harmony with several letters from Denmark printed in ' Memoirs and Correspondence of Sir Robert Murray Keith, K.B., Envoy Extraordinary and Minister plenipo- tentiary at the Courts of Dresden, Copenhagen, and Vienna, from 1769 to 1792,' 2 vols. 8vo, 1849. Sir Eobert was British am- bassador to Denmark during the affair of Count Struensee ; and his correspondence gives much light on this and on other matters referred to in the text as events of recent occurrence. XV. (p. 226). He " passed advocate " on 1st June 1800. To " be called to the bar " is not the technical expression in Scotland. The reception into the profession was, and still is, of the old academic character. 548 APPENDIX OF NOTES. After certain private examinations by committees of the Faculty of Advocates, there is a public " disputatio," where the candidate for honours, as in the old universities, publicly defends certain theses or propositions before all comers. The theses opened to impugn- ment must be from the Pandects. His public impugnment and acceptance are thus entered in the Faculty Minutes : "1st June 1800. Mr Henry Peter Brougham, eldest son of Henry Brougham, Esq., of Brougham Hall, was publicly examined in Title 5, Lib. III., Digest. De Negotiis Gestis, and found sufficiently qualified." XVI. (p. 237.) Charles Hope, Lord Advocate in 1801, and Lord President of the Court of Session in 1804 ; died 1851. The speech on the powers and duties of the Lord Advocate will be found in Han- sard's Debates for 22d June 1804. It has been severely com- mented on as announcing dangerous and unconstitutional doctrine. The Lord Advocate of the day had written a vehement letter to the sheriff of a northern county, denouncing the conduct of an employer who had dismissed a man for deserting his service to become a volunteer. It was a period of panic about invasion by the Boulogne arma- ment, and the gravity of the Lord Advocate's letter lay in the steps which he directed the sheriff to take against the employer " on the landing of the first Frenchman." Hope in his defence of his successor cited the instances in which executive officers in extreme emergencies had taken extreme measures on their own responsibility. XVII. (p. 247.) Somewhere about the year 1856, Sydney Smith's daughter Saba, the wife of Sir Henry Holland, compiled a memoir of her father. This was not published, but she most kindly sent me a copy. I have already referred to Smith's not very accurate account of the origin of the ' Edinburgh Review.' I have no further desire to criticise or to find fault with Lady Holland's book ; but I lately laid my hands on a letter I received from Sir David Brewster, which relates to a matter connected with Sir Isaac Newton, a name at all times quite as interesting to me as to Sir David. APPENDIX OF NOTES. 549 Lady Holland, in the pedigree she gives of her father, makes the following statement : " My father's grandfather married a Miss Barton, whose mother was half-sister to Sir Isaac Newton (the only ancestor the Smiths ever had, but one not lightly to be passed over)," p. 8. From the pedigree thus set out, it appears that Sir Isaac Newton's mother, married as her second husband, Mr Bar- naby Smith, and their daughter married Dr Barton, whose daughter Catherine married Mr Oilier, Sydney Smith's maternal grandfather. Now, according to Sir David Brewster, this marriage with Mr Oilier is a mistake ; for the Catherine Barton in question married a Mr Conduitt. Here is what Sir David Brewster says on this subject : — " BRIDGE OF ALLAN, June IB, 1856. " DEAR LORD BROUGHAM, — Nothing ever surprised me more than the dream of Sydney Smith, that he was descended from Catherine Barton, Newton's niece. " Having accidentally got a sight of the first edition of his Life, I sent to Sir H. Holland two pedigrees of Newton's family, one fuller than the other ; and in consequence of this the pedigree was suppressed in the next edition ; but Lady Holland was still scep- tical, and I put her in communication with Mr Cutts Barton, the descendant of a half-brother of Mrs Conduitt ; but though he gave her a choice of making out her connection with several Catherine Bartons, yet no connection whatever has been traced between the two families. "Mrs Catherine Barton's history from 1700 till the time of her death is so well known that Lady Holland will find it impossible to establish any connection with her, or indeed with any other member of Mr Smith's family. " I have not felt it a duty to subscribe to Newton's monument at Grantham, on the ground that it should be a national tribute to his memory. — I am, dear Lord Brougham, ever most truly yours, "D. BREWSTER." Miss Barton was a witty and very handsome woman, greatly admired by Lord Halifax, who left her at his death in 1715 a large legacy, and also an annuity of £200 — leaving to her uncle, Sir Isaac Newton, £100, "as a mark of the great honour and esteem he had for so great a man." On the 24th of August 1717, Miss 550 APPENDIX OF NOTES. T>:irtnn married Mr Conduitt of Cranbury, in Ilampsliire, member of rarliaiiu-iit, and much valued by Xewton. Their only child Catherine, bom in 1718., married, in 1740, Mr Wallop, afterwards Lord Lymington. From one of her daughters the Portsmouth family are descended. There can therefore be 110 question that if Mr Oilier did (as nobody denies) marry a Miss Barton, it was not Catherine the1 niece of Sir Isaac Xewton. I am equally persuaded that Sydney Smith himself would never wilfully have claimed this connection with Xewton : he was far above any such pretensions, unless upon sure grounds. From all I ever knew of him he would not only have objected to, but would have laughed at, his nephew's foolish weakness in dropping the most respectable, and in their case distinguished, name of Smith, and assuming that of Vernon, merely because his father Debus married a Miss Vernon of Hilton, but who no more represented the Vernons of Hilton than she represented the Plantagenets. XVIII. (p. 250.) I)r John Thomson, born at Paisley, 1705; died at Edinburgh, 1840. He was called by his contemporaries "the most learned of physicians ;" and the discursive character of his scientific acquire- ments rendered him valuable to the body of young men in Edin- burgh, who, at the beginning of the century, were ambitious of adding physical science to their acquirements in law, politics, and general scholarship. In January 1800, writing about the condi- tion and prospects of "The Natural History Society," he says: "Various plans of relief were proposed, and I at last suggested the turning the Society into a chemical society, that should provide itself with an apparatus and occasionally make experiments. The proposal has since been talked of among the members, and is, I Relieve, universally approved of. In mentioning it to llorner, he proposed an alliance with tin; Academy of Physics. Brougham, in the meantime, came home, and has entered keenly into our views. . . . . Perhaps I am too sanguine; but I conceive that if I can give to the infant society a good organisation, it may become an institution which you will have pleasure in patronising. We shall be able to draw into it all the young men of the place who have any turn for physical researches. It is proposed to meet in APPENDIX OF NOTES. 55 1 summer. Brougham is to write you in a day or two. He looks well, and his present appearance would give you much satisfac- tion. Horner and he are both particularly anxious that you should approve of the plan of a chemical society." — Letter addressed to John Allen, in biographical notice of Dr Thomson prefixed to his 'Life of Cullen,' p. 16. Failing health compelled Dr Thomson to retire from active life in 1835. It used to be his pride to tell how in that same year he was sought in the privacy of his cottage at Moreland by his friend of thirty years before, now Lord Chancellor, and visiting Edinburgh on the occasion of the Grey festival ; and how they talked over their old chemical recreations as if they were still young students with the world before them. The contemporaries of John Allen who knew him in his social eminence are fast diminishing, and his fame was not of a kind to be revived in a new generation. He was born in 1770, near Edin- burgh. There the small mansion of Bedford, his birthplace, the possession of his family, still exists : it happens to be close beside Colinton, where his friend James Abercrombie, Lord Dunfermline, spent his latter years. He studied medicine, and lectured on physiology and the other branches of science connected with the medical profession ; but he did not settle down in practice. The theatre of his great reputation was Holland House, where he was the admitted chief among the wits and scholars who frequented the hospitable table there. Besides science, he wrote on constitutional history and Spanish politics. His small work called an ' Inquiry into the Growth of the Eoyal Prerogative' (1830), is so important and conclusive as to have often elicited the remark that there is nowhere else so much light on the British Constitution within so small a space. Another brief work, a ' Vindication of the Ancient Independence of Scotland,' (1833), is a singularly clear explanation of the historical conditions in which the Plantagenet kings vested their claim for asserting a superiority over the crown of Scotland. His articles in the ' Edinburgh Review ' are said to have exceeded thirty in number. He died in 1843. Soon after his death there was a design among his personal friends to collect and publish his scattered works, but it unfortunately came to nothing. Malcolm Laing, born in Orkney, 1762 ; died in 1818. He was for some time member of Parliament for Orkney. He was intimate with Fox, and a valued and influential member of the Whig party 552 APPENDIX OF NOTES. of the day. He wrote a * History of Scotland,' beginning with the union of the crowns in 1603, and ending with the incorporating Union of 1707. John Stoddart, born 1773; died 1856; knighted in 1826. From the Church, for which he had his earliest training, he turned to law, giving much of his time to civil or Koman law. He be- came thus available for service in the dependencies where that system prevailed. Early in the century he became King's Advo- cate at Malta, and in 1826 returned thither as Judge of the Vice- Admiralty Court. During the interval of nearly twenty years between these services he became a distinguished journalist, writ- ing for several years the leading political articles in the ' Times/ END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 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