| “eke ene: Clas DELS =. .£ a Book __/ oe A 3 Copyright N° COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. ne a ee SEAS ie % ne age — heer ee Aa ed / BY THE SAME AUTHOR FLOWER GARDENING About 200 pp., 5 x 73 in. Illustrated with many photographs $1.20 net; postage 10c. MAKING A ROCK GARDEN 64 pp., 41 x 64 in. Illustrated with photographs 50c net; postage 6c. LILIES ow i ape a er Fes SO LiLiks BEING ONE OF A_ SERIES OF FLOWER MONOGRAPHS BY, me . Pai Hy Ss!” ADAMS Author of “Making a Rock Garden” ete. NEW YORK McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 1913 ee 2 “ Copyright, 1913, by ’ ate 4 McBrive, Nast & Co. wa nel “4 A> Published, February, 1913 end Vol OclA832819 ah gs XIII CONTENTS INTRODUCTION . Sus-GENERA, WITH PRINCIPAL SPECIES . GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION . Lies For NortHERN GARDENS . TENDER AND Capricious Linigs . PLANTING For THE Best EFFECTS . ESSENTIAL CULTURAL POINTS Litres UNDER GLASS . PROPAGATION INsEcT PESTS AND DISEASES . Litres as Cut FLowERS. .. - SPECIES, VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS | Linres THat Are Nor Litizs BIBLIOGRAPHY OF LILIES . INDEX oh dean teks! eh ole tetr cata ewe PAGE “ME Fn ) t Ba: THE ILLUSTRATIONS L. candidum—the madonna lily . . Frontispiece * FACING PAGE | L. pardalinum—the panther lily v L. philadelphicum—the Philadelphia lily. . . 6¥ L. speciosum—the handsome lily—among rho- dodendrons . . . SST AAAU AAMT TAIRA L. speciosum var. iene red handsome lily 16 * L. croceum—the orange Hy ie a Oe L. testaceum—the Nankeen lily . . . . . 20% L. sulphureum—the sulphur lily . . . . . 28% L. tigrinum—the tiger lily. . . . . . . 86” L. Hensoni—Hanson’s lily.) ls | L. auratum—the gold-banded lily. . . . .. 54 E. longiforum—the Waster lily) 06) RE L. Brownu—Brown’s Wily.) %))6) 6 2 L. elegans—the Thunbergian lily. . . . . T2Y L. Leichilini—Leichtlin’s lily . ..°. . «TBs L. monadelphum—the Caucasian lily. . . . 82 L. myriophyllum in the garden... . . +86" L. canadense—the Canada lily. . . . . . 96” L. tenuifolium—the corallily. .. . 96 ~ L. tigrinum, var. flore-pleno—the double ake lily 100 » LILIES CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Or all flowers, none is more beautiful than © the lily. Nor is any more famous in song, in story and in art, or more sanctified by long garden association. Indeed, from remote an- tiquity, only the rose and the violet have been so strongly intrenched in the hearts of the peo- ple. Yet, of all flowers, the lily is among the most neglected. Especially is this true of American gardens. Lilies have been cultivated in them since early colonial days, but the pioneer ma- donna lily is far from common even in New England and Virginia, where it doubtless had its first foothold. The old orange lily is toler- ably scarce and the tiger lily has made no more than a fair amount of headway. Add the aura- tum and speciosum and the list of those that 1 9 LILIES are so much as tolerably familiar figures in the home garden stops at five. This despite the fact that there are a score or more of easy species, with numerous varieties and hybrids. And how many kinds of liles are frequently seen in the greenhouse? Just one. Here are other glorious opportunities. In short what L. H. Bailey saidin 1900: ‘‘ Dozens of magnificent lilies are practically unknown’’ is quite as true to-day—more’s the pity. In the hope of helping to bring the lily into its own here, in both garden and greenhouse, this book has been written. CHAPTER II SUB-GENERA, WITH PRINCIPAL SPECIES THE species of Lilium, the typical genus of the order Liliaceae, are divided by Baker into Six groups, or sub-genera. For the most part the distinction lies in the shape and the ar- rangement of the blossoms. The sixth group 1s important only to the collector and sometimes is omitted altogether in the classification of this flower. There are differences of opinion as to the technical correctness of this division and also as to which group some of the lilies belong. Both are far less serious differences in the gar- den than in the botanist’s mind. This list is not complete; it includes only the principal species. 1. CarpioLANumM (heart-leaved). White blossoms, funnel-shaped. Leaves stalked, heart-shaped, ovate. cordifolium giganteum 3 4 LILIES 2. Evuririon (true lilies). Large, funnel or trum- - pet-shaped blossoms, but shorter; mostly white or light tints. Lanceolate leaves. Brown Parry candidum philippinense japonicum primulinum. longiflorum. rubellum Lown sulphureum myriophyllum Wallichianum neilgherrense Washingtonianum nepalense 3. ARCHELIRION. Blossoms large, funnel-shaped, but open, the divisions spreading wide and turned back; pistil curved forward and stamens diverging from it. auratum speciosum Henry tigrinum 4. IsouirRIoN (upright-flowered lilies). Blossoms erect, more or less cup-shaped and generally early expanding; mostly orange or reddish orange. bulbiferum dauricum Catesbaetr elegans concolor medeoloides coridion philadelphicum croceum Wallacer 5. Marracon. Blossoms mostly Turk’s cap, or turn-cap type, the bell shape of L. canadense being an SUB-GENERA 4) exception. About half of the species have leaves in whorls. avenaceum callosum canadense carniolicum chalcedonicum columbianum Grayt Hansoni Heldreicht Humboldtiu Jankae Kelloggu 6. NoTHOLIRION. Lewehtlim maritimum Martagon monadelphum pardalinum parviflorum parvum polyphyllum pomponium pyrenaicum superbum tenutfolium testaceum Has only two species, that appear to be a link between the lily and the fritillary and are of difficult garden culture. Hookert roseum CHAPTER III GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION Liures are flowers of temperate regions— which is fortunate indeed, as it makes a great many of the species available for gardens that have their extremely cold months and brings all of the others within the range of climates where the winter weather is mild. The family is found only in the northern hemisphere. In North America the lily belt runs across the upper part of the United States and strays over the Canadian border; but it resolves itself into two important centers, one taking in California, Oregon and Washington and the other the northeastern states. In the western group are L. pardalinum, L. Washing- tomanum, L. parvum, L. Parrys, L. colum- bianum, L. maritimum, L. Humboldiu, L. Kel- loggui and L. parviflorum, constituting a list of admirable species in which American gardeners should take at least as much pride of cultiva- tion as do the English. Of these, L. Washing- 6 AT, erydjapepryg eyy3—wnoiydjapopyd “T Aj Joyyued syj—wnuryopsvd “T GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION 7 tonianum is the nearest approach to an Ameri- ean white lily that there is. In the eastern group L. superbum and L. canadense, which range from New Brunswick to the nearer south and as far west as Minnesota and Missouri, and L. philadelphicum, which is found from New England to North Carolina and as far west as the other two, are the chief species. The others, L. carolinianum, L. Grayi and L. Catesbaei are, respectively, so similar to the preceding as to seem southern variations; they are not found north of Virginia. Indeed, L. carolinianwm is not always classed as a species. Europe has lilies so far north as the lower part of Scandinavia, but most of the species are natives of the more southerly countries. Here, too, there is only one white lily, L. candidwm, which is one of a few that recognize no geo- graphical hne between Europe and nearest Asia. Other important European species are L. Martagon, which also wanders into Asia; L. croceum, L. bulbiferum, L. chalcedonicum, L. pomponium, L. carnolicum, L. pyrenaicum and L. Jankae. These include, in L. candidum, the most beautiful of all garden lilies and several others than which none is more useful in the hardy border. 8 LILIES In ‘Asia the great lily center is Japan and China, but the zone extends north into Siberia, and south to the Neilgherry hills of India and takes in the extreme west as well. Here are found all of the pure white and whitish lilies save one in each class and all of the pure pink and pink-tinged ones, as well as the most glow- | ing red and orange kinds. Japan has fur- nished the incomparable list of LZ. auratum, L. speciosum, L. longiflorum, L. japonicum, L. Hansoni, L. elegans, L. rubellum, L. Wallacet, L. Leichtlini, L. medeoloides, L. dauricum, L. cordifolium, L. coridion and L. callosum; China, L. Henryi, L. myriophyllum, L. tenuifolium and L. yunnanense, and the two countries together, L. tigrinum, L. Brownii, L. concolor and L. avenaceum. Of these, L. tenuifolium, L. daurt- cum and L. concolor are natives of Siberia also. In India are found L. nepalense and L. neilgher- rense; in Burmah, L. Lowit, L. sulphureum and DL. primulinum; in the Himalayas, L. giganteum, LL. Wallichianum and L. polyphyllum and in Persia, extending to Caucasus, L. monadelphum. The lilies of India and Burmah, unfortunately, are among the most tender as well as among the most beautiful. There is, apparently, a certain kinship be- GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION 9 tween lily species that are widely separated geographically. What LZ. philadelphicum is to America, for example, ZL. elegans and L. dauri- cum are to Asia and ZL. croceum is to Europe. Again, the L. superbum of the eastern United States differs immaterially from the western L. pardalinum, while L. Hansoni might be called an Asiatic counterpart and L. Jankae a Kuro- pean one. Then there are the American L. canadense and L. maritimum, the Asiatic L. monadelphum and the European L. pomponium that in form, if not so closely matched in color, put another lily girdle around the earth. Finally, L. Washingtonianum on this side of the Pacific, must be distantly related to the white and whitish trumpet lilies of the other side. It is probable that there remain no undis- covered lilies. The only hope of any new spe- cies seems to be China—now the world’s great botanical reserve and the lure of the most ardent inland voyages of discovery. Just when the lly map was changed by the entry of this flower into garden cultivation it is impossible to say; doubtless the earliest movement from the wild is lost in antiquity. However, it is going far enough back into the 10 LILIES past to say that L. candidum has been grown in English gardens since 1596 and this must have been the first kind to cross the Atlantic. Soon after, L. Martagon, L. croceum and L. chalce- donicum probably found their way northward. Eight kinds of lilies are mentioned in Gerard’s Herbal (1597), but of these it is difficult to identify any excepting L. candicum and L. bulbiferum. In 1629, ‘‘Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris’’ speaks of L. pom- pomum, L. chalcedomcum, L. carniolicum, L. Martagon and L. pyrenaicum, as well as DL. canadense, which therefore appears to be the pioneer American lily in Europe. While the eighteenth century saw a few more lilies in gar- dens, it was not until the last century found Japan and China open to western commerce and. California a new field of venture because of the gold craze, that the real rush of lilies into cul- tivation began. The discovery of lilies, in short, is largely coincident with the entrance of the Pacific into the world’s trade. CHAPTER IV. LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS Aut lilies are beautiful; one could pick at random and draw a prize. But the choice, so ' far as American gardens that know a real win- ter is concerned, necessarily is limited to a smaller number than the eighty or so known species. And there are some lilies that are rather too finicky for culture without extraordi- nary regard for their particular requirements. With these deductions from the list, however, there remain quite enough lilies in either the easy or the not very difficult class to constitute nothing less than an embarrassment of riches. No garden need be without at least one lily. There being nothing but want of trying to stand in the way, let that one be the madonna lily (L. candidum). This is not only the loveli- est of lilies, but the hardiest white kind. It is so adaptive to ordinary garden conditions that frequently it will stay in one spot for a genera- tion or more if undisturbed. Ben Jonson 11 12 LILIES meant the madonna lily when, years ago, he asked: ‘‘Have you seen but a whyte lillie blow??? And it is to it that Maeterlinck refers when he says: ‘‘The great white Lily, the old lord of the gardens, the only authentic prince among all the commonalty issuing from the kitchen-garden, the ditches, the copses, the pools and the moors, among the strangers come from none knows where, with his invariable six- petalled chalice of silver, whose nobility dates back to that of the gods themselves—the im- memorial Lily raises his ancient sceptre, august, inviolate, which creates around it a zone of chastity, silence and light.’? Certainly either of these quotations is appealing enough to bring to every American dooryard that knows it not, the lily of liles—the emblem of purity, the in- spiration of poet and painter for centuries and a benediction in the garden when June is melt- ing into July. Of the two types, the one with wide petals is the better. The next best garden lily, if sheer loveliness as well as complete hardiness be considered, is L. speciosum; which has no adequate common name. Handsome lily is indefinite and the old name, Japan lily, is confusing. Though a gar- den flower in the western world since 1830, it L. specioswm—the handsome lily—among rho- dodendrons ay Pat eal jae Beet a a Ae ry Sg : : : a oy ‘ >. , i 2 ; ay oe ’ , ‘ ' pelle _ iv we a , ; Ag 2, ii . ir 7 7 - an 7% bg e : ; -” wae 2 ' : : i. | + ; ah i rr NG ; AN me ; , Ay 7 a rs a oat) a Vi ' D i lee Ln j ; , ie ' : iy 4 ay we A ah ‘ , 7 ne a, t Cette al 7 HOH, a ee ios +. at : \% oe Se LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS 13 does not begin to be grown as much as its merits warrant. These merits include late August and early September bloom, thus extending the lly season. There are both white and colored va- rieties. The white has a faint greenish stripe down each petal and it is one of the best of cool- looking flowers for midsummer. It deserves the widest cultivation—with, rather than in preference to, the type; which is white, faintly flushed and spotted with crimson. If more rosiness is desired, add the admirable variety Melpomene, which is quite a deep crimson mar- gined with white. There are a number of other good kinds, running into somewhat confused nomenclature; but more minute distinctions than these three may well be left to Dutch, Japanese and English horticulturalists to set- tle among themselves. The so-called yellow speciosum is LD. Henryi. For its like hardiness, its glowing color and its rounding out of a little lily season of three months by blooming late in July and early in August, the tiger lily (L. tigrinum) is well en- titled to third place. The particular shade of orange red, spotted with deep purple, is alto- gether unique among tall lilies and, when rightly employed, is a valuable tone in garden painting. 14 LILIES This is the one true lily that has so far Amer- icanized itself as to have become an ‘‘escape’’; it is occasionally found wandering out to the roadside from places where there was once a garden. The finest of the several varieties is L. t. splendens. The double form, though the best double lily, is not worth while. Were its bloom not virtually coincident with that of L. candidum, third place would be given to the orange lily (ZL. croceum). It is ‘‘iron clad,’’? having stood the cottage garden test— and there is no better recommendation for a lily —time beyond memory. The bright orange hue is wonderfully rich and glowing and the erect blossoms are set so closely together that the color is even more amenable to bold effects than that of the tiger lily. These four lilies would glorify any garden and may be called a perfectly safe, if not the safest, quartet for northern precedence. Their selection, however, is purely arbitrary. An- other, for perhaps quite as good reasons, might make a somewhat different choice; for example, L. tugrinum splendens, L. speciosum rubrum and L. tenuifolium have been grouped as the most desirable three lilies for everyone. And there you are. In the end it is the individual LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS = Io who must decide what is best for his particular garden—best after considering not only his per- sonal preferences but climate, soil, shade, shel- ter and other conditions. From this point to the end of the chapter, therefore, precedence of mention will have nothing to do with precedence of desirability. If any lily is magnificent it is the gold-banded ~hily (LZ. auratum). Its color—white, spotted sparsely with reddish brown and each petal banded longitudinally with yellow—is compara- tively modest, but there is a richness and ele- gance to it all that is singularly impressive in the July and August garden. Then there is the size of the blossoms—sometimes a full foot across, making this the largest of all lilies. The gold-banded lily has been in cultivation half a century, but its garden progress has been ren- dered pitiably slow by the fact that, though perfectly hardy, it is not in the easiest class. It rarely does its best in ordinary conditions and, for some reason or other, it is apt to peter out after two or three seasons, making frequent renewal necessary. The Martagon lily (Z. Martagon) is one of the most graceful of border lilies, yet it is rarely seen in American gardens. The finest kind is 16 LILIES L. M. album, a pure white variety of singular charm and one that should be widely planted. The type, known as the purple Martagon lily, is dull purplish pink—somewhat spotted. It offers a striking garden hue, that deepens to wine color in L. M. dalmaticum and to almost black in L. M. Cattaneae, two of the best of the colored varieties. The double form is of no value. The scarlet Martagon lily (L. chalce- donicum) is a distinct species that is quite as worthy of wider recognition. Its bright red turbans are a real delight. There are some im- provements of the type; the best is L. c. excel- sum. The Martagon lilies bloom in June and July. One of the erect lilies, LZ. croceum, has been mentioned already. Some of the lower species are extremely valuable in the hardy garden be- eause of their dwarf or dwarfish stature as well as for running the gamut of color from lemon through all the yellows to red. Excepting for their height and less vigorous growth, the two chief species, LZ. dauricum and L. elegans, are enough like L. croceum to deceive many a flower- lover. Add to this the fact that the former is identical with L. davuricum and L. umbellatum and the latter with L. dahuricum, L. lancifolium L. speciosum var. rubrum—the red handsome lily LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS 17 and L. Thunbergianum and that the blood of both is mixed with each other and with L. croceum, and the confusion is worse confounded. The best way is to pick out some good varieties and let the authenticity of the species go to pot. In the elegans class the variety Batemanniae, sometimes called L. Batemanniae, is an exqui- sitely beautiful late-flowering apricot variety that grows as high as four feet. Of the dwarfs, Prince of Orange is a fine early apricot variety, Orange Queen all that its name implies and Alice Wilson a good pale yellow. The type is orange and less planted than the varieties and hybrids, which are the most numerous of any lily. Orange is also the type color of L. dauri- cum, but it is flushed with red and spotted with black. Of the varieties and hybrids, Diadem, bright crimson with a yellow band down each petal; Sensation, deep orange flushed with brownish red; incomparabile, deep crimson, and Sappho, light orange tipped with red, are all admirable. June and July are the blooming months. The bulb-bearing lily (L. bulbiferum) is similar to L. dauricum, but the type has brighter orange red blossoms and there are bul- bils in the leaf axils. It is a very old, hardy garden plant, with a blooming season extending 18 LILIES from July to August. Then, in the same erect class, there is the red star lily (LZ. concolor), a bright scarlet species, spotted red, that makes a very good Asiatic substitute for the American L. philadelphicum where the latter does not do well. It blooms in June and July and is quite dwarf. The varieties Coridion, rich yellow; Partheneion, scarlet flushed with yellow, and pulchellum, deep crimson, are all good. American lilies are grown mostly in English gardens—where every one of the species is treasured. The lack of home appreciation is nothing short of deplorable. One of the noblest of them, the swamp lily (L. superbum), will flourish amazingly in an ordinary border if it has only so much as a ground cover; in these circumstances, without its wonted peaty soil and moisture, it has been known to raise a cluster of nearly thirty bells full seven feet above the ground. Its orange blossoms, flushed with scarlet, spotted with brown and strongly re- curved, are excellent for heightening the gar- den skyline in July and August. The some- what similar panther lily (LZ. pardalinum) of the extreme West is quite as excellent for a like purpose. The blossoms, coming in July, are a rather bright red, the lower parts of the petals LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS 19 being orange with red spots. There are a num- ber of varieties, some of which are occasionally listed as species. Of its hybrids, Burbank’s lily (LZ. Burbanki) is especially good. The Carolina lily (LZ. carolinianum) is hardy in the North, but is less striking than LD. superbum and L. pardalinum. The Canada lily (ZL. canaden- se) lends itself to July garden use with the same readiness and, though less showy, both the yellow and the red types are to be generally recommended. Gray’s lily (Z. Grayi) is so nearly like the red form of L. canadense that it is scarcely worth while to have the two ex- cepting in a lily collection. The Oregon lily (L. columbianum) grows readily in eastern gardens, but its small, golden-yellow blos- soms, spotted with red, are among the least effective of lly blooms. It flowers in June and July. The Nankeen lily (L. testaceum), though one of the choicest of border lilies and quite hardy, is rarely seen in American gardens. The dull apricot tone that gives it its name, set off by orange anthers, puts it in a color class by itself. Few lilies are more graceful. This lily, which blooms in June and July, has never been found growing wild; but it is regarded as a natural 20 LILIES hybrid of L. candidum and either LZ. chalcedoni- cum or L. pomponwm. Among the oldest and hardiest of border lilies is the turban lily (LZ. pomponium). The type is vermilion red and not unlike the scarlet Marta- gon lily, but it blooms earlier—in June. The variety L. p. aureum is possibly the same as the yellow Turk’s cap lily (L. pyrenaicum) or the similar L. Jankae. In any event, both of these are meritorious yellow lilies. The smaller L. carniolicum is a good vermilion red lily for July. Hanson’s lily (LZ. Hansoni) is a Japanese va- riety that ought to be better known, as it 1s quite hardy and not at all difficult of culture. The color is bright orange, spotted with brown and the refiexed petals are very thick and waxen. It blooms in June and July and runs up to a height of four or five feet. The Marhan lily (L. Marhan) is a most attractive hybrid of it, the other parent being L£. Martagon album. The color is a tawny orange, curiously spotted and streaked with reddish brown and the backs of the petals whitish. It has the Martagon habit and the blooming period is coincident with that of LZ. Hanson. Of the white, or whitish, lily species, the only one save L. candidum that can be placed in the L. croceum—the orange lily SL Ae Aci ee a ot fra. > re <; . 9 f ‘i ", a : r i Sa: | , ° ema i - - — Le ‘ << 4 ee ahs = ve i ‘ — LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS 21 first rank of reliability is Brown’s lily (ZL. Brownu). The sole drawback is that it re- quires replanting every few years. This is in- deed a hardy garden treasure of July and August. The blossoms, usually solitary, are of the size and shape of the Easter lily; but they are suffused with reddish brown on the outside and the anthers are brown. ‘There is a variety, Chloraster, that is suffused with green and the varieties leucanthum and odorum are creamy yellow. A somewhat similar newcomer, from China, that appears to be both hardy and vigorous in American gardens is L. myriophyllum. Its funnel-shaped white blossoms, flushed with yel- low in the center and the outside of the petals streaked with brown and tipped with pink, and its fine, narrow foliage commend it to general culture. It bears some resemblance to UL. Brownii leucanthum, but has more refinement and it blooms a little earlier—in July. Although neither Brown’s lily nor L. myri- ophyllum has the purity of the species best known as Easter lily (L. longiflorum), the last- named is less to be preferred in the colder gar- den zone. It is hardy enough to have endured the winter so far north as Ottawa; but, unless 22 LILIES given unusual care, responds indifferently and must be renewed with frequency. The type, from Japan, is the best for planting out in the North; bulbs from Bermuda (ZL. Harrisii) might prove too tender. The variety Wilsoni is a fine one. For a rather pale yellow color nothing is bet- ter than the Caucasian lily (LZ. monadelphum). The yellow is slightly tinged with purple and the anthers are a rich orange. It blooms in July and the stalks may run up as high as six feet. The variety Szovitzianum, sometimes ealled L. Szovitzianum, is straw color, spotted with black and has brown anthers. It is rather to be preferred to the type, but either makes a fine display. The littlest of all, the coral lily (L. tenuifo- lium), is far too charming to have its present slight recognition. Coming as it does from Si- beria and northern China, it is quite at home in gardens where the winter is severe; but, as it is a fairy among lilies, it is apt to be choked to death by neighboring giants. Whileit hasa way of being at its best in its fourth year and then perishing, it is readily renewed by seed. The coral lily’s little waxen, and strongly re- curved, bells are deep scarlet and with from six LILIES FOR NORTHERN GARDENS 23 to ten of them on a stalk the contrast with the dark green foliage is charming. The average height is about a foot and a half and the blos- soms appear in June and July. The variety pumilum is taller and stouter and there is a very beautiful clear apricot kind called Golden Gleam. Here then are no less than twenty-eight lily species and two hybrids, with a great many varieties more or less distinctive, from which to choose without going outside of the range of hardy garden safety. Surely it is a generous enough list in point of numbers and it draws upon all the five important sub-genera, save only the heart-leaved lilies. CHAPTER V TENDER AND CAPRICIOUS LILIES FortuNATE indeed are the gardens that may open their gates to all the lilies. Such there are, lingering somewhere between northern and sub-tropical climes—with winters not too cold, nor yet too hot. For them are the glorious company of the tender and capricious lilies— those that will live in northern gardens only at the expense of overmuch coddling, if at all. In this class, reluctantly, is placed the won- derful giant lily of the Himalayas (LD. gigan- teum). This is a hardy lily and in some parts of England has been naturalized in woods; but it is not quite hardy enough to stand a very cold winter without an uncommon amount of protec- tion. Even then there is a vast difference be- tween merely blooming and attaining to perfec- tion—which means throwing up a stalk ten to fourteen feet tall, with very fine heart-shaped foliage and crowned in July and August with from a dozen to a score of trumpet-shaped blos- 24 TENDER AND CAPRICIOUS LILIES 25 soms, nine inches long and five inches wide across the mouth. These blossoms pass as white, but actually they are tinged with purple inside and green outside. In the evening air their fragrance, though powerful, is very de- lightful. The heart-leaved lily (Z. cordifolium) is a similar, but smaller and generally inferior, Japanese species of like tenderness and bloom- ing about a month later. The variety Giehnii is the hardiest form of it. It is no less trying to put the only two clear pink lilies into the tender class; but they, too, do not quite belong outside of it. These are Kramer’s lily (ZL. japonicum) and the reddish lily (Z. rubellum), both Japanese species and with such points of resemblance that the latter has been thought by some to be a smaller form of the other. They differ also in the point that L. rubellum has less open blossoms, broader leaves and shorter stems. Both are among the loveliest of lihes, their rose color and general refinement being hard to match. Kramer’s lily is sometimes sold as LZ. Krameri. The very ‘choice whitish variety, Alexandrae, is not hardy also; another variety, Colchesterense, which re- sembles L. Brownti, is rather more so. In mild parts of England L. rubellum is fairly hardy 26 LILIES and on the whole is more reliable outdoors than Kramer’s lily. Itis one of the earliest of lilies, May and June. Kramer’s lily follows in July and August. While Henry’s lily (LZ. Henryi) is called a hardy and vigorous border subject, it is difficult when it has to contend with extremely cold weather conditions. Still it well deserves its place among the preferred lilies for American gardens and the hope is that in them it will eventually attain to the superb luxuriance of bloom and foliage that it displays in England. There, where it rarely fails, it has been known to run up to twelve feet in height and to bear as many as thirty of its deep salmon orange blossoms on a stalk. It used to be called the yellow speciosum, as it is quite like L. speciosum in both form and habit. The blooming season is the same—July and August. Several of the American lilies are either rather tender or capricious, or both. These include, unfortunately, three of the finest of the lot, the Washington lily (L. Washingtonianum), Humboldt’s lily (ZL. Humboldtit) and Parry’s hly (ZL. Parryi). The Washington lily, which flowers in June, is regarded as one of the best of western lilies for eastern gardens; but it is TENDER AND CAPRICIOUS LILIES 27 nevertheless somewhat difficult of culture, even in England. It is a wood lily, from three to five feet tall, and the white funnel-shaped blos- soms are tinged with pink or red and dotted with purple. A smaller variety, rubescens, is white changing to pink and the variety pur- pureum is a distinct pinkish lilac kind from the Siskiyou mountains. These varieties perhaps account for the confusing color descriptions of this lily. Humboldt’s lily, a tall reddish yel- low species spotted with maroon and blooming in June and July, resembles L. superbum, but is showier. It is in the capricious class. Parry’s lily (LZ. Parryi) grows readily in gar- dens and comes into bloom at the same time, but is not very strong in cultivation. The citron hue, shaded with hight brown on the inner bases, and the brown anthers, make it one of the most beautiful of yellow lilies. Of the others, the wood lily (L. philadelphicum), though perfectly hardy, needs coddling in the garden to keep it there. Where it can be made to stay, it is a handsome little lily, erect and with scarlet blossoms, the yellow center being dotted with maroon. The season is July and August. Its near relative, the southern red lily (Z. Catesbaei) is quite similar and blooms 28 LILIES in July. It is tender and therefore rather un- reliable in northern gardens. Kellogg’s lily (ZL. Kelloggi), pinkish purple with maroon spots and somewhat resembling the purple Martagon lily; the coast lly (ZL. maritimum), a slender species with reddish orange blossoms spotted with purple, and the little lily L. par- vum, light orange tipped with red, are a trio of quite delicate California lilies. All of the very beautiful lilies of India and Burmah are so sadly tender that when any of them has been made to bloom well in gardens it has been in such mild parts of England as Cornwall and Devonshire. The Nepaul lily (ZL. nepalense), has flowered in such circumstances. This is a large lily, greenish yellow with a deep purple base. The Neilgherry lly (L. neilgher- rense) is more funnel-shaped in form, but pale yellow. Both bloom in September, making them doubly unsafe in cold climates. The sul- phur lily (L. sulphureuwm) is another September lily, and fairly hardy for its class. The trum- pet-shaped blossoms are creamy white, suffused with yellow inside and tinged with red outside. It is comparatively easily in cultivation. Of the same form, but a soft primrose yellow color, is L. primulinum. Low’s lily (L. Lowit) is a L. sulphureum—the sulphur lily = ie r — ahs ba | oe te oe 4 ,' pre hh ‘a bigs i t AG 7 wt qe TENDER AND CAPRICIOUS LILIES 29 handsome bell-shaped species, white spotted with purple, that blooms in September. Wal- lich’s lily (ZL. Wallichianum), white tinged with green and funnel-shaped, is a July lily that is very difficult as well as very tender. The west- ern Himalayan species, L. polyphyllum, green- ish yellow tinged inside with purple and turban- shaped, and the Philippine form of J. longiflorum (L. philippinense), are in the same class. With heavy protection, L. philippinense has been wintered successfully in Ohio. Of the other species the oat-scale lily (ZL. avenaceum), a red Japanese kind similar to L. tenuifolium, is delicately constituted. The similar orange red L. medeoloides and the scar- let L. callosum, as well as Leichtlin’s lily (ZL. Leichtlim), pale yellow with purple spots, are three more Japanese species that are not easily eultivated. CHAPTER VI PLANTING FOR THE BEST EFFECTS NowHeEreE in the garden ean lilies be said to be out of place; the worst of circumstances will not close the eye to their beauty. There is, nevertheless, all the difference in the world, so far as effect 1s concerned, between the proper and the improper planting of lilies. The ideal way to plant lilies would be in a lily garden. The lines from ‘‘Troilus and Cressida,”’ ‘“Give me swift transportance to those fields. Where I may wallow in the Lily beds,”’ suggest such a place apart. Who would not like to wallow, mentally and sentimentally, in a garden full of lilies? To come down to earth, R. W. Wallace, the English lly expert, makes this practical suggestion: ‘‘An ideal spot for lilies would be an open forest glade with a small stream running through it, near the banks of which the North American peat- and moisture- loving lilies would flourish; and higher up, 30 PLANTING FOR BEST EFFECTS 31 away from the water, clumps of auratum, Washingtonianum, Humboldtii, giganteum, and all our finest species, would readily grow.’’ Many a country place, both large and small, has a spot approximating these conditions— thus easily convertible into a naturalistic lily garden. And there is no reason in the world, other than the negligible botanical one, why the planting should be confined to members of the Lilium genus. Some of the so-called lilies, not a few of which belong to the lily family, might be used for seasonal effects. But whether one has the space for a lily gar- den, and the time and disposition to maintain it, or whether it is a matter of a species or two in ordinary dooryard conditions, there is a prime rule that should not be broken. A lily’s beauty does not consist wholly in color; there is beauty of form, both in the blossoms and in the plant as a whole. Unless it is properly placed, the full of esthetic delight is therefore not experienced. If a lily’s normal habit is dignified and stately, it must be set forth in all its dignity and stateliness to be at its best; if graceful, in all its gracefulness; if rather stiffly dwarfish, in its rather stiff dwarfishness, and sO on. 32 LILIES Nature, as in so much else that concerns the disposition of plants in the garden, is the best guide. For example, when lilies grow naturally they rise from herbage or low shrubbery. There is never any overcrowding; the stalks have room to bend more or less to the breeze and not a trumpet or bell that does not stand out with individual prominence. You see in short, the lily in all its glory. There is, accord- ingly, no more effective way to plant lilies than among shrubs or, in the case of the dwarf spe- cies, In a low shrubbery foreground. More- over, this plan kills two birds with one stone, as some lilies require, and all prefer, not to rise from bare ground and also to be protected from spring frosts. Inasmuch as some of the lilies are particu- larly fond of peat too, the rhododendron bed, or a planting of any of the broad-leaved ever- green shrubs, is one of the best of places. Natural conditions are approximated and at the same time admirable use is made of unemployed ground space, and lilies that prefer not to be disturbed may follow their own sweet will. Of course, the shrubbery must not be too thickly set; that would crowd out the lilies. Such tall- growing species as the swamp lily (ZL. super- PLANTING FOR BEST EFFECTS 33 bum), Hanson’s lily (LZ. Hansoni), the Canada lily (Z. canadense) and Henry’s lily (ZL. Henryi) are seen to the very best garden ad- vantage when planted, in naturalistic groups, among rhododendrons. The gold-banded lily (LZ. auratum) and the madonna lily (L. cand- dum) are quite as fine in their less colorful and less looming way, while in the foreground the Thunbergian lily (LZ. elegans) and other dwarf erect species, as well as the dainty coral lily (L. tenuifolium), may be used to decided ad- vantage with ferns or other low growth. Shrubbery may also be employed with excel- lent effect as the background of lilies and when it also breaks the force of strong winds so much the better. The taller lilies mentioned all look well against high shrubbery. ‘To them may be added the Caucasian lily (LZ. monadelphum), the panther lily (LZ. pardalinum) and the pur- ple and white Martagon lilies (LZ. Martagon). Where the background is lower the scarlet Mar- tagon lily (ZL. chalcedonicum), Brown’s lily (ZL. Brownu), the orange lily (LZ. croceum) and Batemann’s lily (L. elegans Batemanniae) are admirably placed, or a dwarf foreground may be made with the red star lily (Z. concolor) or L. elegans Orange Queen. In all cases the lilies 34 LILIES will be better, and look more at home, if there is an evergreen herbaceous ground cover, low or tall according to the flowering height of the dominant figures. Lilies really require an appropriate back- ground. A few, such as the madonna and Henry’s lilies, are very, very beautiful stand- ing out against a clear blue sky; but, generally speaking, green, and plenty of it, is the best setting, especially for the white, whitish, pink and pale yellow lilies. So, in massing in the border of hardy perennials, care should be taken that something appropriate rises higher behind them. This is no drawback when it shuts off some of the sun, for most lilies will stand a little shade and there are those that refuse to thrive well without it. Such massing is the most effective way of planting lilies where naturalistic methods are out of the question and here there may be a little more crowding. The more irregular the planting the more ef- fective, save in purely formal designs—for which lilies are not often suitable. Any lily that will survive the garden winter is excellent for this purpose—all of those already spoken of in this chapter and the Nankeen lily (LZ. tes- taceum), the turban lily (LZ. pomponium), the PLANTING FOR BEST EFFECTS 35 tiger lily (ZL. tigrinwm) and the bulb-bearing lily (ZL. bulbiferum) as well. For purity the madonna lily stands alone, though L. Martagon album is very fine for a less chaste white, while for color the Nankeen, speciosum, gold-banded, Martagon, Hanson’s, Henry’s, turban and all of the hardier erect lilies, are always very useful. The most beautiful formal employment of lilies is to line a path, on one or both sides. For such planting nothing is better than the madonna lily, in a solid phalanx of purity. Where a pergola is not densely shaded from above, the path may be lined on either side with this lily; that has been done, with most en- chanting effect. The soft apricot Nankeen lily lends itself to the same purpose. A path in sparse woodland, or through shrubbery, may be lined with either Brown’s or the speciosum lily, or L. longiflorum if more pains be taken, but in this case the planting must be thinner and altogether irregular. There these lilies will incline gracefully toward the path, instead of assuming the erectness that they have in the open garden. , One lily leaf, at least, may be taken from the cottage gardens. In them a self-arranged 36 LILIES clump now and then nestles up to the house by the side of the door and seems to belong to the home, as it does. This is a good way to plant the madonna, tiger, Nankeen and orange lilies, which thus placed will frequently take care of themselves for years. They need not be staked; in fact wherever this can be avoided in the gar- den it should be done. A lily tied to a stake can never be quite its natural self. The out and out naturalization of lilies is more delightful to think about than easy to accomplish, because to most are denied the right conditions. Where these do obtain, it is far preferable to use lilies this way than in even a naturalistic garden. The swamp and Canada lies it is cruel to place in a garden when they may be introduced to one’s own bit of wild. Both are good subjects; so is the wood lily (L. philadelphicum), which does not take very kindly to cultivation. For the rock garden any lily may be used, as the taller ones can be planted in recesses on the ground level and given the requisite setting. The dwarf, erect kinds, however, are to be pre- ferred. For cool pockets the red star lily is a good subject. Very likely the reddish lily (LZ. rubellum) and the coast lily (LZ. maritimum) L. tigrinum—the tiger lily PLANTING FOR BEST EFFECTS 37 would be more amenable to culture in rock gar- den pockets than in other conditions. Each lily species shows off to better advan- tage by itself. If mixing is done, it is wiser to place varieties together; the purple and white Martagon lilies, for example. Though a com- mon enough practice, it is also a wiser plan not to mix lilies with other flowers. This as a rule; no one could possibly take exception te the garden juxtaposition of the madonna lily and tall blue larkspur or the swamp lily and black cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa), and the low erect yellow, orange and red lihes may be used in a few combinations. The point is, as with entirely segregated pianting, that there shall be neither detracting nor distracting in- fluence. | Finally, unless one is collecting, the planting of many lilies of one or a few kinds, rather than a few lilies of many kinds, is to be strongly advised. In the first place, all lilies are not for all gardens. The selection in the average. in- stance must narrow down to the most suitable kinds for individual conditions and of these a small choice should be made. Better two or three kinds in perfection than ten times as many in both imperfection and ineffectiveness. CHAPTER VII ESSENTIAL CULTURAL POINTS A Few of the lilies have become so domesti- eated that they will do well in any ordinarily good garden conditions; the tiger lily even re- fuses to let grass choke it to death. But most of them are not sufficiently remote from the wild to make it safe to deny them an approach to what they have been accustomed to in life, and there is not one that does not thrive better if its particular likes are catered to. It goes without saying, therefore, that the culture of lilies should begin before the buying of the bulbs, so to speak. Their hardiness, their ease of culture, their soil preference and their shelter and shade requirements having been thoroughly digested, a straight start is easily made. Soil preference is of the greatest importance and, fortunately, it is possible, with a little eare, to supply almost any local deficiency. Lhe majority of lilies grow naturally in very, | 38 ESSENTIAL CULTURAL POINTS 39 good soil. It is usually rich in peat or veg- etable mold, there is generous depth and though the degree of moisture required varies, this is tolerably uniform as to any species in the grow- ing season. Garden loam, lightened with sand if too heavy and mixed with peat or leaf-mold, makes a good soil for lilies. Manure should not be used unless it is extremely well rotted. The better way is to employ it as a top dressing and trust to the rain to do the mixing. No lily tolerates fresh manure next to the bulb. Spad- ing should be to a depth of at least three feet, and deeper still where, in chalk or clay condi- tions, it is necessary to excavate a trench and fill it with entirely new soil. Partial shade from the sun, which scorches L. Hansoni and L. Henryi, and partial shelter from winds, are urgent demands of some of the lilies. To others they are grateful, but not necessary. Shade must not shut off light and air, however, and while the branches of trees may overhang the planting, care must be taken that the tree roots do not absorb all the lily food from the soil. Where this danger may not be dodged, lilies can be planted in a tub of soil sunk in the ground. As for moisture, all lilies need it when growing. Few of them stand 40 LILIES drought well and if once given a serious set- back by it the bulbs rarely recover. It is impossible to make a hard-and-fast plant- ing rule in all these matters, for the reason that lilies have a way of following their own devices. In one garden a species will sometimes adapt itself to circumstances with the best of grace whereas in another it refuses to be comforted unless humored. For this reason lily cultural observations vary quite widely and now and then are absolutely contradictory. The only real solution is for each grower to create his own experience and then forget that of others. As an approximate guide in the making of such experience the following differentiations of the hardiest lilies may be used. CULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS Thrive in good light garden loam and in full sun. All are the better for some peat or leaf- mold in the soil and ean stand partial shade. A eround cover is preferable, but not necessary ; L. candidum makes its own. These are the easiest lilies to grow. bulbiferum carnolicum canadense | chalcedomcum candidum concolor ESSENTIAL CULTURAL POINTS 41 croceum Martagon dauricum pomponiun elegans | pyrenaicum / Hanson * speciosum # Jankae tenuifolium *” longiflorum. * testaceum Marhan tigrinum v¥ May be grown in ordinary garden conditions, but are best off in soil with plenty of peat and leaf-mold, and should be planted out among shrubs where their roots can be shaded and a fair degree of moisture maintained. auratum vif monadelphum Brown myriophyllum columbianum Prefer shade, moisture and shelter from wind, with plenty of peat or leaf-mold in the soil and a well-drained root-run. fo Burbanki Grayt carolinianum pardalinum é superbum The rule to plant lily bulbs three times their depth is not to be taken literally. The two lilies in the heart-leaved group are planted with the top of the bulb about on a level with the surface of the ground. With these exceptions, the 42 LILIES depth of soil above the top of the bulb should be from three to seven inches. The normal size of the bulb—some are quite small—and the vigor of the species are determining factors. But there is a-third highly important point to bear in mind. Some lilies root from the base of the bulb only, while others throw out later a second set of roots from the stem a little way above'the bulb. As the stem-roots are vital ele- ments in the production of perfect bloom, the stem-rooting lilies must be planted deep enough to avoid exposure of this second set. It is diffi- cult to draw a precise line between the two classes, but a fair division, with the inches of soil above the bulb, is as follows: LILIES WITH STEM-ROOTS ‘auratum* (6 to 8) japonicum (8 to 4), Browni (5 to 6) Leichtlini (3 to 4) bulbiferum (5 to 6) longiflorum (5 to 6); concolor (3 to 4) neilgherrense (5 to 6), croceum (5 to 6) nepalense (5 to 6) dauricum (5 to 6) rubellum (3 to 4) ‘elegans (8 to 4) sulphureum (5 to 6), Hansoni (5 to 6)' / tigrinum? (5 to 6)! Henryt (6 to 8) 1In cold, wet soil not so deep. 2 Plant mammoth bulbs 6 to 8 inches, ESSENTIAL CULTURAL POINTS 483 LILIES WITH NO STEM-ROOTS, OR FEW canadense (3) pardalinum (4) ' candidum (4) Parryi (3) carniolicum (4) parvum (3) chalcedonicum (4) philadelphicum (3) columbianum (3) pomponium (3) cordifoluum (none) pyrenaicum (4) giganteum (none) superbum (4) Grayt (3) tenuifolium (3) Humboldtu (4) testaceum (4) Martagon (4) Washingtonianum (3) monadelphum (4) The madonna lily should be planted in Au- gust, as it puts out a new growth of foliage in the early autumn. The scarlet Martagon lily makes an early root growth and therefore ought to be in the ground by the middle of October. Aside from these two species, lilies may be planted in the autumn any time before the ground freezes. Not infrequently it is difficult to get imported bulbs in season to do that; in such an event, the ground may be prepared and kept from freezing by means of a heavy tem- porary covering of manure. Then the bulbs can be planted as late as December. A few of the lilies will do well if bulbs carried through the winter in cold storage are planted in April dt LILIES or May; but spring planting at best is a poor second choice—no matter how great the care, the bulbs are apt to be shriveled. Plumpness is very important to the strength of lily bulbs. As some of them will shrivel if allowed to dry for only a day or so, it is best to plant them at once. If they are slightly shriveled when received, they can be plumped by laying them on moist cocoanut fiber in a eool place for a few days. Bulbs that show signs of a little decay or mold, may be disin- fected by sprinkling a little powered charcoal or sulphur over them; but if badly off in this respect, or much shriveled, they would better be thrown away. The bulb scales protect the germ and must be in at least fair condition. It is always a good plan to dust lily bulbs with powdered sulphur, letting it get under the scales, before planting; this to prevent fungous dis- ease. Excepting in extremely light soil, it is also a good plan to put a little sand under and all around the bulb. A little peat under the bulb promotes root growth and in the case of the Nankeen lily a couple of inches of fresh sphagnum has been tried with success. If the lily bed is not protected by growing shrubs, there should be provision made against ESSENTIAL CULTURAL POINTS 45 the spring frosts; the young shoots are often very susceptible to frost, and injury of this sort is an unsuspected cause of failure. Branches of any evergreen are the safest pro- tection, but even bare boughs will break the force of the frost. Some lilies are a bit tricky in one particular; they may decide to take a rest for a year and then, when you have set them down as ‘‘gon- ers,’? fool you by ‘‘bobbing up serenely.’’ Again certain lilies put in an appearance the first spring, but either give unsatisfactory bloom or none at all. Most of the lihes that root only from the base of the bulb establish themselves so slowly that they are rarely at their best for a year, and occasionally they may be two or three years getting about it. Of the Martagon group, L. Hansoni is about the only one that can be relied upon to bloom well the first season. The no-hurry kinds further in- clude L. giganteum, the buds of which should be pinched off the first spring if any do appear, in order that root-growth may be encouraged; L. monadelphum, L. Humboldtu and L. parda- linum. So patience with, as well as understand- ing of, lilies is called for. One secret of the success of the madonna and hic) 46 LILIES > scarlet Martagon lily in cottaSe gardens is the fact that usually they are let alone for years at a time. These resent disturbance. The same thing is true of most, of the Martagon group, including L. pardalinum. A surface mulch of manure is good for lihes and the ground should have a winter cov- ering of either this or leaves, unless it is well blanketed with an evergreen herbaceous plant. Very frequently lilies perish because they have insufficient winter protection in ex- posed places. iS Hlansoni—Hanson’s lily ; i CHAPTER VIII LILIES UNDER GLASS Trere are three reasons for growing lilies under glass—all of them good. In the first place they are among the most decorative of indoor plants. Then again there is no more valuable cut flower. Finally, by this means only is it possible to grow successfully in a cold cli- mate some of the most beautiful species. The ideal indoor planting of the tender In- dian, Burmese, Himalayan, Japanese and Phil- ippine species is in a bed in a cool greenhouse where, among ferns and other plants, they may grow in a close approach to natural conditions. That is the Kew plan and in even a greenhouse of quite modest proportions it is possible to adopt, or at any rate adapt, the plan. The fol- lowing lilies are best treated this way: cordifolium neilgherrenseé giganteum nepalense japonicum philippinense Lown polyphyllum 47 48 LILIES primulinum sulphureum rubellum Wallichianum All of these, however, are prime subjects for pot plants—with the exception of neilgherrense, whose flower spike is thrown out horizontally from the bulb before leaving the ground; as are also auratum longiflorum Brownu Marhan candidum speciosum Hanson tigrinum Henryt The following are also good, though rather less satisfactory than the others: concolor elegans croceum tenuifolium dauricum testaceum A few lilies are not suitable for pot culture, as they have rhizotamous or creeping bulbs. These include: canadense + Parryi* Leichtline superbum + pardalinum + Lilies grown in pots serve two purposes. They can be used indoors or they may be the 1 A]l the American lilies are better outdoors. LILIES UNDER GLASS 49 means of advancing, or ekeing out, the lily sea- son outdoors. Potted lilies, brought into flower under glass, are extremely convenient to place temporarily in bare spots in the shrubbery or the hardy border, where the pots may be sunk in the ground, or to brighten up the piazza or living-room. The most serviceable kinds for such disposition are L. longiflorum, L. japoni- cum, L. auratum, L. speciosum and L. candidum. The best compost for potting lilies consists of two-thirds fibrous loam and one-third fibrous peat with a little leaf-mold and sand. This suits almost all lilies. For the madonna lly a small amount of lime rubbish may be added and ZL. rubellum will do well in stony, sandy soil if the drainage is perfect. Pots should be roomy and for stem-rooters there must be plenty of depth. These are planted low and the pots filled up with a somewhat richer compost when the stem-roots appear. In the case of L. aura- tum and L. speciosum this top dressing should be followed by an application of weak liquid manure. After planting, the pots are plunged in a bed of ashes four inches deep and later transferred to the greenhouse or a coldframe. Potting is done in October for early bloom in- doors and later for indoor succession or for 50 LILIES outside use. Bulbs potted for outdoors should be kept in a cool place but safe from frost. Dur- ing the growing and blooming season a great deal of water is required. After blooming the watering should be gradually decreased until the stems turn yellow—when the bulbs may be repotted and kept rather dry in a coldframe for use the following winter. If L. longiflorum is wanted early, it is advisable to keep it in a moist atmosphere and well watered and sy- ringed. CHAPER IX PROPAGATION TueErE are three ways of propagating lilies— by seed, by scales and by offsets. Seed, no doubt, is the best means of acclimatizing some of the more tender and capricious species, but only a lily enthusiast would care to use so slow a process of reproduction. It requires about seven years for L. giganteum to bloom from seed and the other species take their own time. A few of the les produce seed very freely, among them L. Henryi, L. superbum, L. rubel- lum and L. tenwifolium; others are chary of it. Lily seed should be planted in a sheltered place, as soon as well ripened, in light, moist soil and not allowed to dry out until the second year, as germination may not take place the first spring. Sow seed of Martagon lily, L. monadelphum, L. dauricum, L. croceum, L. superbum in open ground if desired, but most kinds germinate better in pans indoors. The young bulbs can be transplanted when a year old and grown on ol 52 LILIES until large enough for permanent placing. If seed is sown broadcast in a suitable spot, no transplanting is necessary. Seales should be healthy ones from the out- side of the bulb, which is not injured by the careful removal of a few. They may be taken from the bulbs as soon as ripe (L. candidum in August), or in early spring, and planted in the open ground, but it is better to put them in pans of loose soil kept fairly moist. They form bulblets the first season. Three kinds of lily offsets are produced— from the bulb, from the lower part of the stalk and from the axils of the leaves; the last are known as bulbils. All these are simply planted in the open ground, or in pans in the case of L. sulphureum, and allowed to grow to flower- ing size. Most lilies can be propagated all three ways. Their weak response is to attempts at hybridiza- tion. The genus is very unusual in the stub- bornness with which it resists being influenced by foreign pollen. Seedlings of any species, if crossed, are very apt to resemble the one that bears them. The result is that there are com- paratively few lilies that are not species or va- riants of species. The natural hybrid L, testa- PROPAGATION D3 ceum and the garden hybrids L. Burbanki, L. Dalhansoni, L. Marhan and L. Kewense are notable exceptions and doubtless forerunners of numerous others. Still, with so many beautiful species, the world stands in no particular need of more. The chief advantage of hybridizing lilies would seem to be to couple the blood of the Indian and Burmese species with hardiness. CHAPTER X INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES Tree kinds of lilies, L. longiflorum, L. speci- osum and L. auratum, are subject in their early stages of growth to onslaughts of the green fly (aphides). These insects get in the unfolding leaves and will cause imperfect bloom if not checked. They are particularly trying in the ease of L. longiflorum, which has denser foliage than the others. Immediate fumigation and more of the same thing later is a good remedy; or syringing, first with a nicotine solution and then with tepid water, may be substituted. The most destructive of the three parasitic fungi and the commonest is Botrytis cinerea. This shows itself in brown, or brownish, specks on the stems, foliage and buds. Eventually it turns into a soft gray mold; sometimes into Lit- tle black spots that become imbedded in the scales. This fungus, which is very trying in the case of L. candidum and L. testacewm in the garden, o4 L. auratum—the gold-banded lily a gt een. The fe a. ne , Oa W May eae 5 7 4 1 INSECT PESTS 49) attacking L. auratum as well if in the full sun, is best treated by Bordeaux mixture when the trouble is above ground. Dissolve one pound of sulphate of copper in a wooden tub and slake one pound of fresh quicklime in another recep- tacle. When slaked, pour the quicklime into the sulphate of copper solution and add ten gallons of water. Spray gently with this mixture and repeat the operation in a week. Bulbs that are seriously affected would better be destroyed. The rust known as Uromyces E'rythronu causes discolored patches. As the bulbs are not at- tacked, the best treatment is to burn the dis- eased stems and thus prevent a spread of the fungus. The third fungus, Rhizopus necans, gets into the bulbs through injured roots and causes them to rot. CHAPTER XI LILIES AS CUT FLOWERS As has been said already, lilies are among the most valuable of cut flowers, but—there is a great big but. The fact is that, although they are invariably beautiful, some of them have shockingly bad taste in the matter of the odor that they exhale. These must be barred from the house altogether and there are others that, though classed as fragrant, have odors so over- powering that they must needs be placed near an open window or in a hall where there is a good passage of air. The most agreeably odorous lily in the house is L. longiflorum and its fragrance is the safest for the sick-room. The similar fragrance of L. japonicum Alexandrae and L. philippinense, the delicate and distinctive aroma of L. neilgher- rense and the restrained scent of L. speciosum, put them well at the head of the list; and there is the delicious perfume of LD. candidum, that is not too strong unless a great many of the blos- 56 LILIES AS CUT FLOWERS 57 soms are in a closed room. Other pleasantly fragrant lilies are L. giganteum, L. testaceum, L. Brownti leucanthum, L. rubellum, L. japoni- cum Colchesterense, L. sulphureum, L. mona- delphum, L. Kellogii and L. Burbanki. Indoors the odor of L. pomponium is scarcely bearable. The Martagon lilies are not much better; L. pyrenaicum and L. monadelphum Szovitzianum have heavy and unpleasant scents. The odor of L. auratum is less disagreeable, but is too rank for the house unless in a very airy place. The odor of L. Parryi and L. caro- linianum is similar, but not so overpowering as the others. Where it can be grown, LD. japonicum is ad- mirable for indoor use; so are L. tigrinum and L. canadense. This brings the safe list up to large enough proportions. Lilies should be cut with long stalks, as other- wise it is impossible to arrange them effectively. Unless the stalks curve gracefully, through growing on the edge of shrubbery, it is best to use a vase that does not flare much at the top. Nor, as a rule, is it wise to employ any other flower foliage with them. Maidenhair fern, however, goes well with L. candidum or L. testa- ceum and a good gray foliage, such as lavender 08 LILIES cotton (Santolina Chamecyparissus), with the upright orange and red lilies. If lilies are wanted for vases in the house, a very sensible plan is to plant a reserve stock for cutting—say in rows next to the vegetable garden. Some of the more tender lilies can be grown in coldframes and the glass lifted off about the end of May. Such pains would be well worth while to secure bouquets of Kramer’g lily or LZ. rubellum. L. longiflorwm—the Easter lily CHAPTER XII SPECIES, VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS Tus list is not absolutely complete; but it includes most, if not all, of the important sub- jects. Nor does it pretend to be absolutely cor- rect in either a botanical or a horticultural sense. When botanists do not altogether agree on species, no mere layman can straighten out the matter of nomenclature with any degree of definiteness or finality. As for the vendors of lilies, they also differ among themselves in both botanical and horticultural names. After all, it matters very little to the plain, everyday flower- lover whether the exquisitely beautiful Kram- er’s lily is L. japonicum, as the Kew authori- ties maintain, or L. Krameri, as others quite as stoutly opine, and Batemann’s lily displays a no less glowing apricot hue in the garden as L. elegans Batemanniae than as plainer L. Batemanniae. In this confused state of things, no doubt some actual duplication of names oc- curs. 59 60 LILIES So, too, the descriptions are sometimes ap- proximate, rather than strictly accurate. Ob- servers do not always see precisely alike and there is no universal standard of color terms. Then again, various conditions may alter not only the color shades but the height and the period of bloom, not to mention throwing the matter of culture into the easy or difficult class. Here, as well, differences of opinion, or of ob- servation, are of slight consequence. For one thing, no lily color will ever prove unsatisfying if given a fair chance to display its particular charm. The writer found the Washington lily at Kew fairly describable as pink. But no one, if he succeeds in growing this choice American species and its varieties will have any fault to find if it proves to be ‘‘white, tinged with pink or red and dotted with purple,’’ or ‘‘ white, pur- ple-spotted blooms that become tinged with pur- ple after expansion,’’ or ‘‘white, with purple tinge on back,”’ or ‘‘ white, shading off to lilac.”’ L. Alexandrae See japonicum Alexandra’s lily is classed. by Kew as a va- riety of L. japonicum, but is sometimes called a natural Japanese hybrid, LZ. auratum x L. longifiorum. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 61 L. angustifolium See pompomum. L. aurantiacum See bulbiferum. L. auratum Gold-banded lily. Japan. Introduced 1862. White, spotted sparsely with reddish brown and yellow band down each petal; 6 to 12 in. across; 3 to 30 on stalk. July, August. 4 to 8 ft. Quite hardy, but prone to run out. Renew stock every three years or so. Thrives in ordi- nary garden soil, but prefers moist peat or leaf-mold and sand, with good drainage. Does well in cool woodland or thinly planted rho- dodendron bed; better still among alpine rhododendrons and low azaleas or kalmias, but must not be crowded. Protect from cold spring winds and direct rays of summer sun. Plant 6 to 10 in. deep. Mulch with rotted manure and water frequently. In bad soil dig holes 4 to 6 ft. deep and fill with peat and sand, or sandy loam, Jeaf-mold, rubbish ashes and some well-rotted manure. var. cruentum—Same as rubro-vittatum. var. macranthum—Less spotted and more robust; best of all. var. pictum—Crimson band and spots. var. platyphyllum—Same as macranthum. var. platyphyllum virginale—S lightly spotted with yellow. 1 Known also as golden-rayed lily and Japan lily. 62 LILIES var. rubro-vittatum—Bright crimson band. var. virginale—No spots. var. \Wittei—Same as virginale. L. avenaceum Oat-seale lily. Japan, Manchuria, Kamchatka. Red, droop- ing, reflexed tips. Similar to L. tenutfolium. 1 to 2 ft. The bulbs are eaten in Kamchatka. Delicate constitution. L. Bakers Baker’s lily. Washington and British Columbia. L. Bakerranum India. L. Batemanniae See elegans. The origin of Batemann’s lily is somewhat obscure, but it is regarded as a variety of L. elegans. L. Berensv Hybrid; LZ. testaceum x L. chalcedonicum. Dull apricot; fragrant. L. Bloomerianum See Humboldtit. L. Bolanderi California. Dull pomegranate, spotted; shape of L. canadense. June. 2 ft. Recommended only to collectors. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 63 L. Brown + Brown’s lily. China, Japan. White, outside of petals suf- fused with reddish brown; brown anthers; trumpet-shaped; usually solitary; fragrant. Handsome foliage; brownish stalk. July, Au- gust. 3 to 4 ft. Hardy and quite vigorous, but requires re- planting every few years. Plant deep in light, peaty soil and warm, sheltered position. Will stand almost pure sand with a little manure, also heavier soil. In eold, heavy soil lay something on ground to shoot off winter wet. The Japanese plant the bulb on the side to avoid damage by water. var. Chloraster—Suffused with green. var. leucanthum—Shaded yellow; stems ereen; very fragrant. var. odorum—Pale yellow, changing to cream; shorter and less heavily tinged. From Central China. Same as L. odorum, L. Colches- terense and L. japonicum Colches- tert. L. bulbiferum ? Bulb-bearing lily. Central Europe, Southeastern Scandinavia. Orange red. Similar to L. dauricum, but dis- tinguished by brighter and less crowded blos- 1 Syn. L. japonicum Brownit. 2Syn. L. auriantiacum. 64 LILIES soms and bulbils in leaf axils. July, August. 2 to 4 ft. Very hardy. Has stood test of many years in gardens. Does well in light, rich garden soil and in an open position. L. Burbank Burbank’s lily. Garden hybrid; LZ. pardalinum x L. Wash- ingtonianum x L. Parry. Orange, spotted with brown and flushed with crimson on the tips; 25 to 30 in loose, graceful spike. Very fragrant. July. 4 to 6 rt: Prefers moist, peaty soil and partial shade. var. ‘‘Selected’’—Orange red recurving and evidently L. pardalinum x LD. Humboldin. Free-flowering. 4 ft. L. californicum See Humboldti and pardalinum. L. callosum Japan. Introduced 1840. Scarlet, droop- ing! 1 to 3 ft. Difficult of culture. L. canadense + Canada lily.? Eastern United States. Light orange, spot- ted with brown. July. 3 ft. 1 Syn. L. penduliflorum. 2 Known also as meadow lily, Canadian lily and wild yellow lily. L. Brownii—Brown’s lily : r eS a ee ° = 7 i Dhar’ i te te at || F te rn uy ie ‘ an a | bal bee a F ae | ° re U A A = ai & . ’ : af Dy evouret) = mi ih . e i 7 er y i ’ ~ ; ; Beh nae y li ' uM ha ... : res ¥ i ii”, = } te * ay’ = pe ? é y a Hi : _ ‘ r .- Md } j yi A ‘ { aa i 4 i i ' a | ian i 4 ! ~~ 1 Moai ; A i { t Aull Wy Pl dos es ha ; y n ee es vin _ ‘ re » ee i ii Arann ties ne hes SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 65 Very hardy. Excellent for naturalizing. Thrives in ordinary garden conditions, but pre- fers moist, peaty soil with a low ground cover. var. flavum—Common orange type. var. rubrum—Orange red outside, yellow L. candidum inside. Madonna lily. Southern Europe. Introduced 1596. White; yellow anthers. Broad and narrow petal types. June, July. 4 ft. Very hardy. The oldest lily in cultivation. Thrives in well-drained garden loam and open position. Dislikes to be disturbed. Trans- plant in August, as there is new leaf growth in September. var. var. war. var. War. var. var. flore plenum—Very poor double. foliis aureo-marginatis—Foliage bor- dered with yellow. monstrosum—Same as flore plenum. peregrinum—Purplish stem, narrow leaves and petals. speciosum—Later ; 20-30 blooms on stem, which is black. 5 to 6 ft. spicatum—Same as flore plenum. striatum—Blossom streaked with pur- ple. 1 Known also as white, annunciation, Bourbon and June lily. 66 LILIES L. carmolicum Carniolian lily. Lombardy, Dalmatia, Bosnia. Vermilion red; smaller and less bright than ZL. pom- pomum. July. 3 ft. Thrives in ordinary garden soil. Has done well even in clay. L. carolinianum + Carolina lily. Southeastern United States. Orange red, spotted with black and marked with yellow; recurved. Resembles L. superbum, but less striking and foliage is broader. July, August. 2 ft. Quite hardy. Will thrive in ordinary gar- den soil, if well-drained. L. Catesbaet Southern red lily. North Carolina to Florida and Kentucky. Orange red, spotted with purple and yellow; generally solitary. July. 11% ft. Tender and rather unreliable in northern gardens. Prefers sandy or gravelly peat and a cool, moist, partially shaded place. Often found in pine barrens. Good for rock garden. L. Cattamae See Martagon. isyn. L. superbum carolinianum. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 67 L. chalcedonicum Scarlet Martagon lily. Greece. Bright red; small, turban-shaped, in loose clusters; unpleasant odor. July. 3 1578 Very hardy in English gardens for over a century. Resents disturbance and generally flowers poorly first season. Thrives in ordi- nary light garden loam, or heavier soil if well drained. Transplant not later than October, as roots make early growth. Bears drought well. var. excelsum—Larger and superior; pet- als spotted black at base. var. Heldreichi—Improved form; color paler on outside. Very lke JL. Heldreicha. var. maculatum—Same as excelsum. var. major—Same as excelsum. L. claptonense See promulinum. L. Colchesterense See Brownit and japonicum. L. colchicum See monadelphum. L. Columbianum ? Oregon lily. Oregon, Washington, British Columbia. Golden yellow, spotted with red; small; turban- 1 Known also as Turk’s cap lily and red lily. Probably the “red lily of Constantinople” of Parkinson. 2 Syn. L. nitidum, L. parviflorum and L. Sayi. 68 LILIES shaped. June, July. 214 ft. Some regard it as small form of ZL. Humboldtii and it seems to be identical with LZ. pardalinum parviflorum. One of the easiest of western lilies, but not highly effective in the garden. Prefers soil with peat and sand and a shady, sheltered posi- tion. L. concolor + Red star lily. China, Japan, Siberia. Bright scarlet, dark red spots; erect, star-like, waxen; about two inches across. Several on stem and two to three stems from ore bulb. June, July. 1 to 11, ft. No longer considered difficult. Good and graceful garden lily. Does well in ordinary garden soil. Prefers light loam with peat, leaf- mold and sand and a moist, well-drained and partly shady location. Will stand slaty soil. Excellent for cool parts of rock garden. In good soil and cool spot increases rapidly. var. Buschianum—Crimson. Siberia. var. Coridion—Rich yellow; larger blos- soms. Same as L. coridion. var. Partheneion—Scarlet, flushed yellow. var. pulchellum—Deep crimson, narrower petals. Same as L. p. punctatum. 1 Syn. L. sinicum (China). SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 69 L. cordifolium Heart-leaved lily. Japanese and Kurile islands. Greenish white, tubular, 3 to 5 in. across; 5 to 10 on stalk. Leaves more heart-shaped and deeper green than those of the nearly related L. gigan- teum and sometimes tinged with red. Inferior to L. giganteum. August, September. 2 to 3 ft. Quite tender. Difficult in culture. Safest to pot, and winter in coldframe. Plant in cool and well-drained spot, sheltered from strong sunshine. Give good root-run of leaf soil. var. Giehnii—Hardiest form. L. coridion See concolor. L. croceum Orange lily. Switzerland, France, Northern Italy. Bright orange, with small crimson spots; upright; 3 in. across; several on stalk. June, July. 3 to 4 ft. Resembles L. dauricum, but blossoms bet- ter in substance and duration. Very hardy old cottage garden lily. Flow- ers well first season. Thrives in any soil in a sunny garden border, or among shrubs in half shade. var. Chaixi—Dwarfer than type. L. dahuricum See elegans. 70 LILIES L. Dalhansona Dalhanson lily. Garden hybrid; LZ. Hansoni x L. dalmaticum. Dark brownish purple. June. 5 ft. L. dalmaticum See Martagon. L. dauricum * Dahurian lily. Siberia, North Japan. Orange, flushed with red and spotted with black; erect; 6 to 8 in umbel. Species more slender than modern gar- den forms and has smaller blossoms and shorter leaves. Resembles LZ. croceum, but smaller and more slender. Resembles still more closely LD. elegans, with which it is easily confounded. June, July. 2 ft. Very hardy dwarf lily. Does well in ordi- nary light garden loam. var. Diadem—Bright crimson ; yellow band down petal. Fine hybrid. var. erectum—Orange and scarlet. Early. var. grandiflorum—Light orange red. Large. var. incomparabile—Deep crimson. Very fine. var. maculatum—Deep orange; spotted. Tall. 1 Syn. L. davuricum, L. spectabile and L. umbellatum. Miss Jekyll says that L. davuricum is said to be identical with “L. pennsylvanicum.” SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 71 var. multiflorum—Orange red. More blos- soms. var. Sappho—Light orange, tipped with red. Hybrids of LZ. umbellatum and L. elegans. var. Sensation—Deep orange, flushed with brownish red. var. aurantiacum multiflorum—O range yellow, tipped with orange red. The following forms are perhaps hybrids of L. croceum and L, elegans: var. aurantiacum—Orange. var. Cloth of Gold—Bright yellow. var. Tottenhami—Bright yellow, large heads. L. Davidt See primulinum. L. davuricum See dauricum. L. Delavayi China. Wine red; trumpet-shaped. L. elegans + Thunbergian lily. Japan. Orange; erect. Less vigorous growth than DL. crocewm, which it resembles in general form. Resembles still more closely L. 1 Syn. L. Thunbergianum, L, dahuricwm and L. lancifolium, (2 LILIES dauricum, with which ‘it is easily confounded. May, June, July. 1% tol ft. Very hardy. One of the best border lilies. Thrives in ordinary garden soil, but prefers light loam, peat and leaf-mold. Stands full ex- posure. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. Fine for rock garden or naturalizing. Alice Wilson—Lemon. Dwarf. alutaceum—Apricot. Dwarf. Early. alutaceum Prince of Orange—Apricot with black spots. armeniacum—Orange red. Late. atrosanguineum—Deep red. Batemanniae—Apricot. Late. 4 ft. Same as L. Batemanniae. Beautiful Star—Orange red. bicolor—Yellow, streaked with red. biligulatum—Brownish red. flore-pleno—Deep red, semi-double. fulgens—Red. Same as L. fulgens. hoematochroum—D ark crimson. Fine. Horsmanni—Same as hoematochroum. lateritium—Same as biligulatum. Leonard Joerg—Orange red, crimson spots. ; marmoratum aureum—Deep yellow, crimson spots. Orange Queen—Bright orange. 1 ft. Very fine. Othello—Blood red, tinged with orange, Aj uerssoquny y, 9y3—suvbaja “T ATI] S$ ,UIpyYoIe"T—1u1)}.4919'T “TT SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 73 var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. DL. excelsum L. eximiuim L. Fargest China. L. Formosum White. Peter Barr—Soft yellow; few spots; very fine. pictum—Same as bicolor. Prince of Orange—Apricot, dwarf, early. reticulatum—Salmon with yellow bar, spotted purple. sanguineum—Light red, black spots. Same as L. sanguineum. semi-plenum—Half double crimson. Van Houttei—Fine bright crimson, large and fine. venustum—Same as armeniacum. Wilsoni—Apricot, purple spots; late. Venustum macranthum—Bright orange, no spots, late. 2 ft. Wallacei—Apricot, early August. Same as L. Wallacet. Willie Barr—Orange yellow, spotted crimson. See testaceum. See longiflorum. Yellow; small; Martagon type. Resembles L. elegans in form, 74 LILIES L. fulgens See elegans. L. giganteum Giant lily. Himalaya mountains. White, tinged with purple inside and with green outside; trumpet- shaped, 8 to 9 in. long and 5 in. wide; 12 to 20 on stalk. Delicious, but powerful, fra- grance. Very fine foliage, heart-shaped. July, August. 10 to 14 ft. Hardy. Quite vigorous and not very diffi- cult when conditions suit it. Naturalizes read- ily in English woods. Needs protection in very cold climates. Flourishes finely in a green- house border. Requires quite deep soil con- taining leaf-mold or sandy peat with well- rotted manure and moist sub-soil. A light, loamy soil in woodland will do. Give shelter and partial shade. Does well in rhododendron beds. Roots must be well established to insure perfect flower development and it is therefore better to sacrifice the first season’s bloom in the case of bulbs of flowering size. The best per- manent results are from small bulbs left un- disturbed, but that may mean a few years’ waiting. Protect growing shoots with ever- green boughs in spring. L. Gray Gray’s lily. Mountains of Virginia and North Carolina. Reddish orange, spotted with maroon. Similar to L. canadense, but petals slightly less curved ; SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 75 possibly a southern form of it. Foliage in whorls. Yune, July. 4 ft. Culture quite easy. Thrives best in moist, peaty soil, but does well in any light, well- drained garden soil. L. Hansont} Hanson’s lily.? Japan. Introduced 1882. Bright orange, spotted with brown; thick, waxen, reflexed pet- als. Fragrance not heavy. Leaves in whorls. June, July. 4 to 5 ft. Quite hardy and easy of culture. Does well in light loam. Plant among shrubs and low plants to protect young shoots, this being one of the earliest lilies to appear in spring. Avoid full sun, as blossoms bleach easily. L. Harrisu See longiflorum. L. Heldreicha Mountains of Greece. Bright reddish yel- low. Narrow leaves, thickly set on stem. 2 to 3 ft. Similar to L. chalcedonicum Heldreicha. Plant in loamy soil, in partly shaded place. L. Henry Henry’s lily.’ Ichang, Western China. Introduced 1888. Deep salmon orange; as many as thirty on 1 Syn. L. maculatum. 2 Known also as Japanese yellow Martagon lily and spotted lily. 8 Known also as yellow speciosum. 76 LILIES stalk. Uncommonly fine foliage. Similar to L. speciosum in habit. August, September. 6. to 12 ft. Vigorous and one of best border ilies. Hardy, but rather difficult in very cold climate. Best under glass where outdoor conditions are unfavorable. Has done well in both light and heavy loam, but prefers soil with a mixture of peat. Requires moisture toward blooming sea- son. Shelter from wind and full force of sun. Plant deep. Seeds freely. L. Humboldtu Humboldt’s lily. California. Reddish yellow, spotted with maroon, reflexed petals; in loose triangular cluster. Stout stems, with whorls of leaves. Similar to LZ. superbum, but showier. June, July. 4 to 8 ft. Rather capricious. Prefers deep, peaty soil, but will grow in any well-drained soil. Thrives best in a moist atmosphere. Very poor bloomer the first season. Plant shallow. var. Bloomerianum—Small-growing form and same as L. Bloomerianum, L. californicum and L. puberulum. var. Bloomerianum maenificum—tThe fin- est form. var. magnificum—Freer bloomer and larger spots; from Southern Calli- fornia. var. ocellatum—Same as magnificum. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 77 L. Isabellinum See testaceum. L. Jankae Mountains of Transylvania. Clear yellow, slightly dotted with brown. Similar to L. pyrenaicum, but broader leaves and larger blossoms. Thrives in good loam. L. japonicum + Japanese lily.? South Japan. Clear rose, occasionally paler; funnel-shaped, 6 in. long, carried horizontally ; generally one on stem, but sometimes up to seven. Slender growth. July, August. 214 ft. Type sometimes described as purple, or purplish, with white inside and Z. Kramer then distinguished as LD. 7. roseum. In this case it is also confused with L. Brownit. Very erratic and in cold climates safest in pots. Prefers light, rich sandy loam or peat and good drainage. Peat is said to make color darker. Does well among rhododendrons, but requires frequent renewal. Grows in pine woods in Japan. Plant deep. var. Alexandra e—White, shaded with green at base; pale green foliage; 2 to 3 ft. Resembles somewhat both L. auratum and L. longiflorum, 1§yn. L. Krameri and L. roseum. 2 Known also as Kramer’s lily. 78 LILIES and sometimes regarded as a nat- ural hybrid of them, but shorter flower tubes than latter. First in- troduced from Japan as L. Uki-wre. Not hardy and best in pots. var. Brownii—Same as L. Brownu. var. Colchesterense—Resembles L. Brown, but less brown and more erect, and known also as L. Brownw odorum, L. odorum and L. Colches- terense. var. roseum—Same as L. Krameri and L. roseum. L. Kelloggu Kellogg’s lily. Northwestern California. Pinkish purple, with maroon spots; drooping; petals much re- flexed; very fragrant. Bears some resemblance to L. Washingtonianum and the purple Marta- gon lily. Prefers moist peat, or leaf-mold and sand, with good drainage. L. Kewense Kew lily. Garden hybrid, L. Henryi x L. Brownit. Creamy buff, changing to nearly white; something like a small L. auratum. L. Krameri See japonicum. L. lancifolium See elegans and speciosum. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 79 L. Lankongense Yunnan, China. L. Ledebouri Seé monadelphum. L. Leichtlin Leichtlin’s lily. Japan. Introduced 1867. Pale yellow, with purple spots. Slender stems; long, narrow leaves. Very graceful lily. August. 3 to 4 ft. The so-called red ZL. Leichtlint is DB. tigrinum jucundum (or Maximowiceit). Needs very careful treatment. Prefers sandy soil, lightened with peat. Comes out early and must have protection from frost. Put sharp sand around bulbs. L. Loddigesianum See monadelphum. L. longiflorum St. Joseph’s lily.t Japan. Pure white, trumpet-shaped; deli- eate perfume. Good foliage. July, August. 3 ft. Quite hardy in right conditions, but runs out easily. Best grown in pots. Does well in good garden soil, but better in peat, loam and sand, well drained and kept moist during growth. Give shelter and partial shade. var. eximium—Taller and more robust than type. This is the Bermuda lily. 1 Known also as Easter lily and trumpet lily, and the Har- risii variety as Bermuda lily. 80 var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. var. L. Lown? LILIES Harrisii—Same as eximium and JZ. Harrisit. ¢giganteum—More blossoms and stronger growth. foliis albo-marginatis—Foliage with white margin. formosanum—More slender than type, blossoms tinged with purple on out- side. Native of Formosa. formosum—F'ormosa type cultivated in Japan. Livkin—Similar to type. multiflorum—Same as giganteum. robustus—Same as giganteum. Takesima—Stems and flower buds flushed with brown. grandiflorum—Improvement of Con- tinental type, bloom slightly brown on outside. Wilsoni—6 to 8 large blossoms and dwarfer growth. Wilsoni (of Leichtlin)—Same as ex- imium. Low’s lily. Upper Burmah. Introduced 1893. White, thickly or thinly spotted with purple; bell- shaped. tember. Narrow leaves, slender growth. Sep- 3 ft. 1 Not very hardy. Best for pots or greenhouse border. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 81 L. maculatum See Hansont. L. Marhan Marhan lily. Garden hybrid; DZ. Martagon album x L. Hansom. Tawny orange, curiously spotted and streaked with reddish brown; backs of pet- als whitish, Has Martagon blossoms and habit, with thick petals of other parent. June, July. 4 to 5 ft. Thrives in good garden loam. var. Ellen Willmott—Finest and most ro- bust form. L. maritimum Coast lily. Coast of Northern California. Reddish orange, spotted with purple; drooping, bell- shaped; petals much reflexed. Slender growth. froky..3¢ ft: Very difficult in cultivation. Being a native of peaty meadows, it prefers moist peaty soil, in partial shade. Good for the rock garden. Li. Martagon* Purple Martagon lily.? Central and Southern Europe into Asia. Dull purplish pink, somewhat spotted; small, turban-shaped; in large pyramidal clusters; rather unpleasant odor. June, July. 2 to 5 ft. The bulbs are eaten by the Cossacks. 1 Syn. L. dalmaticum. 2 Known also as Turk’s cap lily. 82 LILIES Three centuries’ test in English gardens. Very vigorous and effective lily. Loamy soil in almost any position, but prefers cool and damp places, though thriving in coldest cli- mates. Plant shallow. var. album—Pure white and very beauti- ful. = ~ = +a sal ae ie re hece SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 97 Very fine in generous plantings among ferns or on the edge of woodland. Plant shallow. L. Thompsomanum Thompson’s lily. Dubious species; syn. Fritiullaria Thompson- danum. Same as L. roseum. L. Thunbergianum See elegans. L. tigrinum + Tiger lily. Japan, China. Orange red, spotted with deep purple; large; reflexed petals. July, Au- eust. 6 ft. Very hardy. Increases rapidly by self-sown bulbils. The bulbs are eaten in Japan and China. Thrives in almost any soil, but pre- fers friable sandy loam and peat or leaf-mold. Avoid drought and provide shelter from high winds. Plant 7 inches deep. var. flore-pleno—Best double lily, but far less beautiful than type. var. Fortunei—F lowers slightly paler, sometimes fifty on stem. var. Fortunei giganteum—Larger blossoms and greener stems. Woolly down on stems. var. Fortunei giganteum fl. pl.—Double variety of same. 1 Syn. L. sinensis. 98 LILIES var. Jucundum—Vermilion, spotted with maroon; no bulbils. More slender and quite distinct. var. Leopoldii—Larger and brighter blos- soms, with larger and fewer spots; fewer leaves; lower stems smooth and black. var. Maximowiczii—Same as jucundum. var. plenescens—Double. var. pseudo-tigrinum—Same as jucundum. var. splendens—Same as Leopoldii, the true splendens considered the best. L. Uki-uri (Ukeyuri) See japonicum. L. umbellatum See dauricum. L. Wallacet Wallace’s lily. Japan; possibly a garden hybrid. Kew ealls it a variety of L. elegans. Rosy apricot, thick- ly spotted. Very graceful. July. 2 to 5 ft. Quite hardy in the border. Plant in a damp place; this lily loves moisture. L. Wallichianum Wallich’s lily. Central Himalayas. White, tinged with green on the outside; funnel-shaped, 8 or 9 in. long with wide mouth; usually solitary; very strong perfume. July. 4 to 6 ft. 1 Syn. L. elegans Wallacei and L. Sutchuense. SPECIES, VARIETIES, HYBRIDS 99 Too tender for northern winters and rather difficult of culture. Requires peaty soil and a light position without full exposure. Does well in shrubbery where the winter is not too severe. var. superbum—Same as L. sulphureum. L. Washingtonianum Washington lily. Sierra Nevada Mountains, California. White, tinged with pink or red and dotted with purple; funnel-shaped, 6 in. across and nearly erect; reflexed petals; 12 to 20 on stalk; fra- grant. Color descriptions of this lily vary greatly. June. 3 to 5 ft. One of the best western lilies for eastern gar- dens, but rather difficult in cultivation when conditions are not quite right. Requires a deep soil of peat, leaf-mold and gritty loam, with perpetual moisture at the roots. Being a wood lily, it likes partial shade. var. minor—Of smaller growth. var. purpureum—Striking pinkish lilae variety found in Siskiyou Moun- tains in Cascade range. Of smaller growth and blossoms arranged dif- ferently on spike. var. rubescens—White, changing to pink. Smaller, more compact and more 1 Known also as Nevada lily. 100 LILIES slender. A little less difficult than the type. L. yunnanense Yunnan lily. Yunnan, China. Pink; small; drooping; 1 to 3 on stalk. Narrow leaves; slender growth. 1 to 2 ft. high. Probably allied to L. oxypeta- lum, now regarded as a fritillary. Requires a peaty soil. L. tigrinum, var. flore-pleno—the double tiger lily hte Le nis 7 ‘" ae : * i aby i- a oF ia . + oa a ae Te nde, a bas) oA , { ian i) 4 “ : wx ‘ere 1%e r ~ ‘wt : et | : (8 igs hae eas, DS ae af iw “ @ ‘ i CHAPTER XIII LILIES THAT ARE NOT LILIES Tue name lily has always been used very loosely in all garden talk that is not in Latin. So it has come about that there are many so- called lilies which are not lilies at all, in the true sense; some of them are not even liliaceous, but belong to genera quite distinct botanically. A number of these are here grouped for easy reference. African—Agapanthus umbellatus. African corn—Ilza. Amazonian—Hucharis amazonica. Arum—Richardia africana. Arum, golden—Richardia Elliottiana. Atamasco—Zephyranthes Atamasco. Avalanche—Erythronium citrinum. Barbadoes spice—Amaryllis equestre. Belladonna—Amaryllis Belladonna. Bengal—Crinum longiflorum. Bermuda spice—Amaryllis Johnsom. Black *—Sarana kamschatkensis. 1Same as Lilium nigrum (dubious species) and Fritillaria kamschatika. 101 102 LILIES Blackberry—Pardanthus chinensis. Brisbane—Eurycles sylvestris. Butterfly—Hedychium coronarium. Caffre (Kaffir)—Schizostylis coccinea. Calla—Richardia africana. Cape—Crinum Capense. Checkered—Fritillaria meleagris. Chilian—Alstremeria chilensis. Chinese sacred—Narcissus tazetta orientalis. Climbing—Gloriosa superba. Corfu—Funkia subcordata. Cuban—Scilla. Custard—Hemerocallis flava Day, blue—Funkia ovata. Day, tawny—Hemerocallis fulva. Day, white—Funkia subcordata. Day, yellow—Hemerocallis flava. Fairy—Zephyranthes rosea. Fayal—Ornithogallum arabicum. Flax—Phormium tenax. Ginger—Hedychium coronarium. Glory—Gloriosa superba. Good Luck—Narcissus polyanthus. Guernsey—Nerine sarmensis. Herb—Alstremeria. Inanda—Cyrianthus sanguineus. Jacobean—Amaryllis formosissima. LILIES NOT LILIES 103 Lent—Narcissus pseudo-narcissus. Lotus—Nymphea Lotus. Mariposa—Calochortus. Milk and wine—Crinum fimbriatulum. Mount Etna—Sternbergia lutea. Nassau—Crinum fimbriatulum. Natal—Morea iridioides. Of the field '—Sternbergia luiea. Of the Incas—Alstremeria Pelegrina. Of the Nile—hichardia africana. Of the palace—Aulica platypetala. Of the valley—Convallaria majalis. Persian—F'ritiilaria persica. Peruvian—Alstremeria. Plantain—FPunkia. Pond, white—Nymphea odorata. Pond, yellow—Nuphar advena. Queen—Phedranassa. Queen—Curcuma petiola. Rain—Zephyranthes alba. Rush—Sisyrinchium. St. Bernard’s—Anthericum liltago. St. Bruno’s—Anthericum liliastrum. St. James—Sprekelia formosissima. Satin—Sisyrinchium Bermudianum. Scarborough—Vallota purpurea. 1 May be Syrian red lily or the red anemone (A. coronaria). 104 LILIES Snake’s head—Fritilaria meleagris. Spanish—Pancratium Caribbeum. Spider—Tradescantia virginica. Spider—Pancratium Caribbeum. Swamp, Peruvian—Zephyranthes candida. Sword—Gladiolus. Thompson’s ‘—Fritillaria Thompsonianum. Toad—Tricyrtis hirta. Torch—Tritoma uvaria. Trout—Hrythronium americanum, Water, blue—Nymphea zanzrbariensis. Water, Cape Cod—Nymphea rubra. Water, fringed—Limnanthemum peltatum. Water, Royal—Victoria regia. Water, white—Nymphea odorata. Water, yellow—Nuphar advena. Wood—Trillium. The lily of antiquity was undoubtedly L. can- didum, and therefore a true lily. In mythology this white lily (Rosa junonis) was supposed to have sprung from the milk of Hera. As the plant of purity, it was contrasted with the rose of Aphrodite. All through the Middle Ages this lily was the symbol of heavenly purity. As is indicated in the preceding table, there is con- fusion of opinion as to whether the biblical 1 Same as Lilium Thompsonianum (dubious species). LILIES NOT LILIES 105 ‘‘lilies of the field’’ were true lilies. Pliny mentions a red Syrian lily and in springtime the red anemone is a common flower of the Galilean hillsides; but there seems to be quite as good reason for surmising that the plant is Stern- bergia lutea. BIBLIOGRAPHY OF LILIES Review of the Order Liliacex, J. G. Baker, 1874. Botanical Review of Genus, Botanical Gazette, 1899. Monograph of the Genus Lilium, J. H. Elwes, 1880. Report of Conference on Lilies (new species and varieties since 1880), Journal of the Royal Hor- ticultural Society, 1901. Lilies for English Gardens, Gertrude Jekyll, 1908. The Book of the Lily, William Goldring, 1905. Notes on Lilies, A. Wallace. 106 INDEX INDEX Alexander’s lily, L. Alexandrae, 60 American Turk’s Cap lily, L. superbum, 5, 7, 9, 18, 32, 36, 37, 41, 43, 48, 51, 95 Annunciation lily, L candidum, 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 65 Baker’s lily, L. Bakeri, 62 Bermuda lily, L. longiflorum, var. Harrisii, 4, 8, 21, 29, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 50, 54, 56, 79 Black lily, L. nigrum, 85 Bourbon lily, LZ. candidum, 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 65 Brown’s lily, L. Brownii, 4, 8, 21, 33, 35, 41, 42, 48, 57, 63 Bulb-bearing lily, L. bulbiferum, 4, 7, 10, 17, 35, 40, 42, 63 Burbank’s lily, L. Burbanki, 41, 53, 57, 64 Canada lily, L. canadense, 5, 7, 9, 10, 19, 33, 36, 40, 43, 48, 57, 64 Canadian lily, L. canadense, 5, 7, 9, 10, 19, 33, 36, 40, 43, 48, 57, 64 Carniolian lily, L. carniolicum, 5, 7, 10, 20, 40, 43, 66 Carolina lily, L. carolinianum, 7, 19, 41, 57, 66 Caucasian lily, L. monadelphum, 5, 8, 9, 22, 33, 41, 48, 45, 51, 57, 85 Coast lily, L. maritimum, 5, 6, 9, 28, 36, 81 Coral lily, L. tenuifolium, 5, 8, 14, 22, 33, 41, 43, 48, 51, 96 Dahurian lily, LZ. dauricum, 4, 8, 9, 16, 17, 41, 42, 48, 51, 57 Dalhanson lily, L. Dalhansoni, 53, 70 Kaster lily, L. longiflorum, 4, 8, 21, 29, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 50, 54, 56, 79 109 110 INDEX Giant lily, L. gigantewm, 3, 8, 24, 31, 43, 45, 47, 51, 57, 74 Gold-banded lily, L. auratum, 1, 4, 8, 15, 31, 33, 35, 41, 42, 48, 40) 54); bon) 51,61 Gold-rayed lily, L. auratum, 1, 4, 8, 15, 31, 33, 35, 41, 42, 48, 40)\b4, 55, 57,61 Gray’s lily, L. Grayi, 5, 7, 19, 41, 48, 74 Japan lily, L. auratum, 1, 4, 8, 15, 31, 33, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 54, 55, 57, 61 Japan lily, L. speciosum, 1, 4, 8, 12, 14, 35, 41, 48, 49, 54, 56, 93 Japanese lily, L. japonicum, 4, 8, 25, 42, 47, 49, 56, 57, 58, 59, 77 Japanese yellow Martagon lily, L. Hansoni, 5, 8, 9, 20, 33, 35, 39, 41, 42, 45, 48, 75 June lily, L. candidum, 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 65 Handsome lily, L. speciosum, 1, 4, 8, 12, 14, 35, 41, 48, 49, 54, 56, 93 Hanson’s lily, L. Hansoni, 5, 8, 9, 20, 33, 35, 39, 41, 42, 45, 48, 75 Heart-leaved lily, L. cordifolium, 3, 8, 25, 43, 47, 69 Henry’s lily, L. Henryi, 4, 8, 13, 26, 33, 34, 35, 39, 42, 48, 51, 75 Humboldt’s lily, L. Humboldtii, 5, 6, 26, 27, 31, 43, 45, 76 Kellogg’s lily, LZ. Kelloggti, 5, 6, 28, 57, 78 Kew lily, L. Bewense, 53, 78 Kramer’s lily, L. japonicum, 4, 8, 25, 42, 47, 49, 56, 57, 58, 59, 17 Leichtlin’s lily, L. Leichtlini, 5, 8, 29, 42, 48, 79 Little lily, L. parvum, 5, 6, 28, 43, 88 Low’s lily, LZ. Lowii, 4, 8, 28, 47, 80 Lilium Alexandrae, 60 angustifolium, 61 aurantiacum, 61 INDEX 111 Lilium auratum, 1, 4, 8, 15, 31, 33, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 54, 55, 57, 61 avenaceum, 5, 8, 29, 62 Bakeri, 62 Bakerianum, 62 Batemanniae, 62 Berensi, 62 Bloomerianum, 62 Bolanderi, 62 Brownii, 4, 8, 21, 33, 35, 41, 42, 48, 57, 63 bulbiferum, 4, 7, 10, 17, 35, 40, 42, 63 Burbanki, 41, 53, 57, 64 californicum, 64 callosum, 5, 8, 29, 64 canadense, 5, 7, 9, 10, 19, 33, 36, 40, 43, 48, 57, 64 candidum, 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 65 carniolicum, 5, 7, 10, 20, 40, 43, 66 carolinianum, 7, 19, 41, 57, 66 Catesbaei, 4, 7, 27, 66 Cattaniae, 66 chalcedonicum, 5, 7, 10, 16, 33, 40, 43, 67 claptonense, 67 Colchesterense, 67 colchicum, 67 Columbianum, 5, 6, 19, 41, 43, 67 , concolor, 4, 8, 18, 33, 36, 40, 42, 48, 68 cordifolium, 3, 8, 25, 43, 47, 69 coridion, 4, 8, 69 croceum, 1, 4, 7, 9, 10, 14, 16, 36, 41, 42, 48, 51, 69 dahuricum, 69 Dalhansoni, 53, 70 dalmaticum, 70 dauricum, 4, 8, 9, 16, 17, 41, 42, 48, 51, 70 Davidi, 71 davuricum, 71 Delavayi, 71 112 INDEX Lilium elegans, 4, 8, 9, 16, 17, 33, 41, 42, 48, 59, 71 excelsum, 73 eximium, 73 Fargesi, 73 formosum, 73 fulgens, 74 giganteum, 3, 8, 24, 31, 43, 45, 47, 51, 57, 74 Grayi, 5, 7, 19, 41, 43, 74 Hansoni, 5, 8, 9, 20, 33, 35, 39, 41, 42, 45, 48, 75 Harrisi, 75 Heldreicht, 5, 75 Henry1, 4, 8, 13, 26, 33, 34, 35, 39, 42, 48, 51, 75 Humboldtii, 5, 6, 26, 27, 31, 43, 45, 76 Isabellinum, 77 Jankae, 5, 7, 9, 20, 41, 77 japonicum, 4, 8, 25, 42, 47, 49, 56, 57, 58, 59, 77 Kelloggii, 5, 6, 28, 57, 78 Kewense, 53, 78 Krameri, 78 lancifolium, 78 Lankongense, 79 Ledebouri, 79 Leichtlini, 5, 8, 29, 42, 48, 79 Loddigesianum, 79 longiflorum, 4, 8, 21, 29, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 50, 54, 56, 79 Lowii, 4, 8, 28, 47, 80 maculatum, 81 Marhan, 20, 41, 48, 53, 81 maritimum, 5, 6, 9, 28, 36, 81 Martagon, 5, 7, 10, 15, 16, 33, 35, 37, 41, 43, 46, 51, 57, 81 Masseyi, 82 Maximowiczi, 82 meleoloides, 4, 8, 29, 83 mirabile, 83 monadelphum, 5, 8, 9, 22, 33, 41, 43, 45, 51, 57, 83 INDEX 113 Lilium montanum, 83 myriophyllum, 4, 8, 21, 41, 84 neilgherrense, 4, 8, 28, 42, 47, 48, 56, 84 nepalense, 4, 8, 28, 42, 47, 84 nigrum, 85 nitidum, 85 occidentale, 85 ochroleucum, 85 ochraceum, 85 oxypetalum, 85 odorum, 85 papilliferum, 85 pardalinum, 5, 6, 9, 18, 19, 33, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 85 Parkmanni, 87 Parryi, 4, 6, 26, 27, 43, 48, 57, 87 parviflorum, 5, 6, 88 parvum, 5, 6, 28, 43, 88 penduliflorum, 88 peregrinum, 88 philadelphicum, 4, 7, 9, 18, 27, 36, 43, 88 philippinense, 4, 47, 56, 89 polyphyllum, 5, 8, 29, 47, 89 pomponium, 5, 7, 9, 10, 20, 34, 35, 41, 43, 57, 90 primulinum, 4, 8, 28, 48, 90 puberulum, 90 pulchellum punctatum, 90 pumilum, 90 Purdyi, 90 pyrenaicum, 5, 7, 10, 20, 41, 43, 57, 91 Roezlir, 91 roseum, 91 rubellum, 4, 8, 25, 36, 42, 48, 49, 51, 57, 58, 91 rubescens, 92 rubrum, 92 sanguineum, 92 Sargentiae, 92 Say?, 92 114 INDEX Lilium sinensis, 92 sinicum, 92 speciosum, 1, 4, 8, 12, 14, 35, 41, 48, 49, 54, 56, 93 spectabile, 94 sulphureum, 4, 8, 28, 42, 48, 52, 57, 94 superbum, 5, 7, 9, 18, 32, 36, 37, 41, 43, 48, 51, 95 Sutchuense, 95 Szovitzianum, 95 Taliense, 95 ; tenuifolium, 5, 8, 14, 22, 33, 41, 43, 48, 51, 96 testaceum, 5, 19, 34, 35, 36, 41, 43, 44, 48, 52,54, 57, 96 Thompsonianum, 97 Thunbergianum, 97 tigrinum, 1, 4, 8, 13, 14, 36, 38, 41, 42, 48, 57, 97 Uki-uri (Ukeyuri), 98 umbellatum, 98 Wallace, 4, 8, $3 Wallichianum, 4, 8, 29, 48, 98 Washingtonianum, 4, 6, 9, 26, 31, 43, 60, 99 yunnanense, 8, 100 Madonna lily, L. candidum, 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 65 Marhan lily, L. Marhan, 20, 41, 48, 53, 81 Meadow lily, L. canadense, 5, 7, 9, 10, 19, 33, 36, 40, 43, 48, 57, 64 Nankeen lily, LZ. testaceum, 5, 19, 34, 35, 36, 41, 43, 44, 48, 52, 54, 57, 96 Neilgherry lily, L. neilgherrense, 4, 8, 28, 42, 47, 48, 56, 84 Nepaul lily, L. nepalense, 4, 8, 28, 42, 47, 84 Nevada lily, L. Washingtonianum, 4, 6, 9, 26, 31, 43, 60, 99 Oat-scale lily, L. avenaceum, 5, 8, 29, 62 Orange lily, L. croceum, 1, 4, 7, 9, 10, 14, 16, 36, 41, 42, 48, 51, 69 Oregon lily, L. Columbianum, 5, 6, 19, 41, 43, 67 INDEX 115 Panther lily, L. pardalinum, 5, 6, 9, 18, 19, 33, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 85 Parkmann’s lily, L. Parkmanni, 87 Parry’s lily, L. Parryi, 4, 6, 26, 27, 43, 48, 57, 87 Philadelphia lily, L. philadelphicum, 4, 7, 9, 18, 27, 36, 43, 88 Philippine lily, L. philippinense, 4, 47, 56, 89 Primrose lily, L. primulinum, 4, 8, 28, 48, 90 Purdy’s lily, L. Purdyi, 90 Purple Martagon lily, LZ. Martagon, 5, 7, 10, 15, 16, 33, 35, 37, 41, 43, 46, 51, 57, 81 Red lily, L. chaleedonicum, 5, 7, 10, 16, 33, 40, 43, 67 Red star lily, ZL. concolor, 4, 8, 18, 33, 36, 40, 42, 48, 68 Reddish lily, L. rubellum, 4, 8, 25, 36, 42, 48, 49, 51, 57, 58, 91 Roezl’s lily, L. Roezliu, 91 St. Joseph’s lily, Z. longiflorum, 4, 8, 21, 29, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 50, 54, 56, 79 Sargent’s lily, L. Sargentiae, 92 Scarlet Martagon lily, L. chalcedonicum, 5, 7, 10, 16, 33, 40, 43, 67 Scarlet pompone lily, LZ. pomponium, 5, 7, 9, 10, 20, 34, 35, 41, 43, 57, 90 Small-flowered lily, Z. parviflorum, 5, 6, 88 Southern red lily, L. Catesbaet, 4, 7, 27, 66 Spotted lily, Z. Hansoni, 5, 8, 9, 20, 33, 35, 39, 41, 42, 45, 48, 75 Sulphur lily, L. sulphureum, 4, 8, 28, 42, 48, 52, 57, 94 Su-Tchuen lily, L. Sutchuense, 95 Swamp lily, L. superbum, js it, O; 1S, 82; 36, 37, 141,43, 48,) pa: 95 Talien lily, L. Taliense, 95 Thompson’s lily, L. Thompsonianum, 97 Thunbergian lily, L. elegans, 4, 8, 9, 16, 17, 33, 41, 42, 48, 59, fp Tiger lily, LZ. tigrinum, 1, 4, 8, 13, 14, 36, 38, 41, 42, 48, 57, 97 116 INDEX Trumpet lily, L. longiflorum, 4, 8, 21, 29, 35, 41, 42, 48, 49, 50, 54, 56, 79 Turban lily, L. pomponium, 5, 7, 9, 10, 20, 34, 35, 41, 43, 57, 90 Turk’s cap lily, L. chalcedonicum, 5, 7, 10, 16, 33, 40, 43, 67 Turk’s cap lily, L. Martagon, 5, 7, 10, 15, 16, 33, 35, 37, 41, 43, 46, 51, 57, 81 Wallace’s lily, LZ. Wallacet, 4, 8, 98 Wallich’s lily, L. Wallichianum, 4, 8, 29, 48, 98 Washington lily, L. Washingtonianum, 4, 6, 9, 26, 31, 43, 60, 99 White lily, L. candidum, 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 65 Wild orange-red lily, L. philadelphicum, 4, 7, 9, 18, 27, 36, 43, 88 Wild yellow lily, L. canadense, 5, 7, 9, 10, 19, 33, 36, 40, 43, 48, 57, 64 Wood lily, L. philadelphicum, 4, 7, 9, 18, 27, 36, 43, 88 Yellow speciosum lily, L. Henryi, 4, 8, 13, 26, 33, 34, 35, 39, 42, 48, 51, 75 Yellow Turk’s cap lily, L. pyrenaicum, 5, 7, 10, 20, 41, 43, 57, 91 Yunnan lily, L. yunnanense, 8, 100 FLOWER MONOGRAPHS LILIES (In preparation) PRIMROSES BELLFLOWERS PHLOX IRIS PINKS All to be uniform with Litres. Each volume $1 net; postage 10c. McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY Publishers: 31 Union Square North NEW YORK Wee LIBRARY OF CONGRESS SCL O0009204234