oye. 202, .USel Miz 42-2 AS -Arm Coast .Eng Res ct. MR 82-6 Littoral Environment Observation (LEO) Data Summaries, 2 Northern California, 1968-78 WHO! DOCUMENT COLLECTION by Christine Schneider and J. Richard Weggel MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 82-6 AUGUST 1982 ey. Ay Sey, oth Stzarne 82° Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER Kingman Building Fort Belvoir, Va. 22060 Reprint or republication of any of this material shall give appropriate credit to the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center. Limited free distribution within the United States of single copies of this publication has been made by this Center. Additional copies are available from: Nattonal Technical Information Service ATTN: Operations Division 5285 Port Royal Road Springfield, Virginia 22161 Contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents. UNCLASSIFIED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered) REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE BETO E CORES SOR 1. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO.| 3. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER MR 82-6 4. TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED LITTORAL ENVIRONMENT OBSERVATION (LEO) DATA Miscellaneous Report SUMMARIES, NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, 1968-78 BEER EGHUINGIGHGERERGRAINUBER 7. AUTHOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s) Christine Schneider J. Richard Weggel 9. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK Demminen: @F Ene Many AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS Coastal Engineering Research Center (CEREN-EV) Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 11. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS 12. REPORT DATE Coastal Engineering Research Center 13. NUMBER OF PAGES Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 14. MONITORING AGENCY NAME & ADDRESS(if different from Controlling Office) 1S. SECURITY CLASS. (of this report) J55200 UNCLASSIFIED 15a. DECLASSIFICATION/ DOWNGRADING SCHEDULE DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of this Report) Approved for public release, distribution unlimited. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abatract entered in Block 20, if different from Report) » SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES - KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number) Data collection Northern California LEO Wave climate ABSTRACT (Cantinue en reverse sides if neceasary and identify by block number) This report briefly describes the Littoral Environment Observation (LEO) Program and its operation in northern California from 1968 to 1978. A sum- mary of LEO daca from 25 northern California sites is presented along with data on breaker height, period, direction, and type; wind speed and direc- tion; longshore current velocity and direction; beach foreshore slope, beach cusps, and rip currents. FORM DD , Annis 1473 EDITION OF ? NOV 65 1S OBSOLETE UNCLASSIFIED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered) : ii; ijt eae i A PREFACE This report provides a brief description of the Littoral Environment Observation (LEO) Program and its operation in northern California from 1968 to 1978. The work was carried out under the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC) Visual Surf and Nearshore Current Observations work unit, Coastal Field Data Collection Program, Coastal Engineering Area of Civil Works Research and Development. The report was prepared by Christine Schneider, Civil Engineering Tech- nician, and Dr. J. Richard Weggel, Chief, Evaluation Branch, under the general supervision of Mr. N. Parker, Chief, Engineering Development Division. Help- ful reviews by D.W. Berg, A. Szuwalski, E.F. Thompson, R.A. Jachowski, 0O.T. Magoon, R. Edmisten, and G. Armstrong are acknowledged. Technical Director of CERC was Dr. Robert W. Whalin, P.E. Comments on this publication are invited. Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, approved 7 November 1963. 47 TED E. BISHOP Colonel, Corps of Engineers Commander and Director CONTENTS CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI). ...... I IGRI RODIUNGINUON Go GG oo 00 6 0 6 6 0 6 6 6 6 6 6 G0 0 II HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA LEO PROGRAM .......... IEIEIE SIGNS SOWA 5 56 6 6 5 0 6 6 0 0 0 66 0 66 6 OO oO oO IV DATA COLLECTION AND STANDARD ANALYSES. . .......2.... ilo Weretalmlas wenemeecl; 566 6 6 5 66 6 6 : 2. Variation of Data Collection Techniques ........ So Seeioelercel Comyouteere (OWENS 5 6 6 o 6 6 6 56 06 000 6 Vv OTHER TYPES OF DATA ANALYSES VAVATIEABER) cs ee) ie te er te IL, Wealilyy 10) IyeiNB@OMES 5 6 0 06 00 6 2 O16 6 6 0 2. Frequency and Cumulative Frequency ‘lskoemems oe Breaker Height and Period. ....... 60 3. Joint and Marginal Probabilities for peealer jetontinte Eleva! Wereslels 5 56 6 6 o 6 6 0.00 ane 2 9 4. Monthly Average Breaker Height em Period Weneue Time 6-6 So IfomAslnoree: (Gipecemis BEISEOREEIN 5 0 56 6 0 66 6 000 000 6 Wosvorne Giecans Were Wl 9 56556 6 6 0 6.6 0 6 610 VI DMPA JAASONIV MELONS 6G of 6 6 6 0 6 60 6 0 60 6 6 0 Oo 6 IGICAMRVAIMOIU, GIN) 5 5 6 6 0 6 6 0000000500 6 0.0 IID IEMOEYNNEN gg o 6 9.6 0 0 60 6006000000 0.000 4 6 APPENDIX A LITTORAL ENVIRONMENT OBSERVATIONS INSTRUCTION SHEET. .... B LEO DATA SUMMARY FOR NORTHERN CALIFORNIA SITES ........ TABLE Code number, name, and location of 25 active LEO sites in northern CGhilsizoreimsla, sree WOO} fee WOKS 6 o 6 6 6 0 0 OO Oo OO FIGURES Location map of LEO sites between Pelican Beach State Park and Sunset EVEN “(Gitoinieeiceyy Hy), Ceulsbi@iamte 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 OOOO Simplified protractors used in both the compass sector (a) and coastalizsector (Cb) method's sre Wey oa Gone ca cece ered cil best enc near-term Svar Typical yearly summary report, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, CLULGH opal pl Ueneee ELAN “ME NG\iaiateGw eo SOc o Opto, O° -8 oa SO © 0 Protractor on back of LEO form which is currently being used to Olycelaiin MENS Glalieeeietoins, gioco 6) 90 6 056 00 6 0 6 0 6 Page 29 31 14 iL) 10 11 12 CONTENTS FIGURES--Continued Typical wind rose plots, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, California. . 17 Typical daily LEO printout, LEO site 05004, Natural BEASBSE Geliycormeis: 56 6,6 oo do 016 816 0 6 8 66 6 6 6 G15 6 6166 6 6 6 a0 US Typical breaker height frequency and cumulative frequency histograms, 1H) Sslea OSOOL,, Warctesal Bioniclaas ss Cailsveoranin. 5 5 6 6a 6 6 oo 6 ob oo Ig Typical breaker period frequency and cumulative frequency histograms, EEOWSHEesOS 004 Natural Bradcesms Callsitkopmilaiorm say al rs sieel aan) ice 20 Typical joint and marginal probability table for breaker height and period, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, California. ......... 22 Typical monthly average breaker height and period versus time plot, LEO ‘site! 05004, Natural! Brides, Calatornian 3. 305. 6 5 «ea ee 23 Typical longshore current histogram, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, Camehoremalayy sense eva, aris d vee cee tein sel Sra eR A reUle ok oe UBM TAU ONSY fie) fates et dreyem ed Wiese: ch dee My ee eR Cp Typical plot of longshore current versus time, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges. Calathormia. 1 <) rermcensr ey iat cntiemrsle teria ey bien ein etic ymca seman eS) CONVERSION FACTORS, UeS.e CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to metric (SI) units as follows: ; en _ ______ by To obtain inches ERG 2524 millimeters 2.54 centimeters square inches 6.452 Square centimeters cubic inches 16.39 cubic centimeters feet 30.48 centimeters 0.3048 meters square feet 0.0929 Square meters cubic feet 0.0283 cubic meters yards 0.9144 meters Square yards 0.836 square meters cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters miles 1.6093 kilometers square miles 259.0 hectares knots 1.852 kilometers per hour acres 0.4047 hectares foot-pounds 1.3558 newton meters PM nae LOO? se 1072 kilograms per square centimeter ounces 28.35 grams pounds 453.6 grams 0.4536 kilograms ton, long 1.0160 metric tons ton, short 0.9072 metric tons degrees (angle) 0.01745 radians Fahrenheit degrees 5/9 Celsius degrees or Kelvins! 1To obtain Celsius (C) temperature readings from Fahrenheit (F) readings, use formula: C = (5/9) (F -32). To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula: K = (5/9) (F -32) + 273.15. LITTORAL ENVIRONMENT OBSERVATION (LEO) DATA SUMMARIES, NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, 1968-78 by Christine Schnetder and J. Richard Weggel I. INTRODUCTION A major problem confronting coastal project planners and designers is the lack of data on waves and currents acting in the nearshore zone. Data obtained by recording instruments are expensive and appear to be rarely available at the precise locations under study. Also, since nearshore wave modifications are complex and highly variable over short distances, data that are transposed from one site to an adjacent one may not be reliable. Simple estimates of the direc- tion from which waves approach the coast are also not generally available because wave gages are usually located seaward of the breakers. Wave direction is an important variable in determining the rate and direction of longshore sand trans- port, and one measurement that is easily estimated from visual observations. The Littoral Environment Observation (LEO) Program was established to help Overcome some of these problems by providing estimates of coastal phenomena at low cost. Under this program, volunteer observers are recruited to make daily estimates of variables such as breaker height, wave period, direction of wave approach, wind speed and direction, longshore current velocity, and beach slope. Other parameters estimated are the spacing between beach cusps and between rip currents when present. At some LEO sites, monthly sand samples are collected from the swash zone. Observers use simple, inexpensive equipment to obtain the data and, for some variables like wave height and direction, simply record a visual estimate of the variable. Because of the simple data collection proce- dures used, any individual observation may be of questionable accuracy, but statistical descriptions of the variables can provide insight into the local littoral environment. Also, LEO observations in a continuous series over time can be extremely useful in describing the physical coastal environment at a site. Observer bias that may exist for some sites can be partially compensated for by determining relative changes rather than absolute values of certain variables. LEO data may be used to estimate longshore sand transport resulting from waves breaking at an angle to the shoreline. These waves produce longshore currents which may transport large quantities of sand along the shore. An em- pirical equation that relates longshore sand transport with wave conditions recorded under the LEO program is given in Chapter 4 of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) (U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977). Some recent theoretical developments allow the computation of sand transport rates using longshore current velocities (see Walton, 1980), which are also available through the LEO observation program. Therefore, LEO provides two separate (although not completely independent) methods of deter- mining longshore transport rates. More details regarding LEO data collection procedures are available in Schneider (1981), and information on the comparison of LEO wave height and period data with data obtained from wave gages is avail- able in Schneider and Weggel (1980). This report presents data obtained at 25 LEO sites in northern California starting with inception of the program in 1968 and continuing through 1978. The location of the sites is presented in the Table and shown on the location map in Figure 1. For examples of applications of the data, the reader is referred to publications listed in the Bibliography. The data collected at these 25 northern California sites represent output from the program during its formative years. Data collection methods and data recording formats over the years were modified as experience was gained. The most notable change was the recording of the wave approach direction. Recordings of early observa- tions were based on the eight major compass directions; later recordings were based on the coastal sector method which recorded the sector from which the waves were approaching. The data presented in this report extend through the adoption of the protractor method. Later data collection efforts include the use of a protractor to estimate direction of wave approach to the nearest de- gree as measured from a line perpendicular to the shore. Other modifications over the years have been less significant. Table. Code number, name, and location of 25 active LEO sites in northern California from 1968 to 1978. Code Name of site Latitude Longitude Marsden One° County No. N. W square square No. 05310 Pelican Beach State Park V41°59.56' 124°12.50' 157 “14 ‘Del Norte 05313 Enderts Beach 41°42.50' 124°08.60' 157 14 Del Norte 05036 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 41°21.30' 124°04.50' 157 14 Humboldt 05307 Redwood Creek Beach 41°17.00" 124°05.57' 157 14 Humboldt 05306 Mad River 40°56.00' 124°08.00' 157 04 Humboldt 05302 Centerville Beach 40°34.40' 124°21.00' 157 04 Humboldt 05301 Shelter Cove 40°01.40' 124°03.90° 157 04 Humboldt 05026 MacKerricher Beach State Park 39°29.50' 123°47.67' 121 93 Mendocino 05025 Russian Gulch State Park 39°19.76' 123°46.99' 121 93 Mendocino 05024 Van Damme Beach State Park 39°16.38" 123°47.39' 121 93 Mendocino 05300 Navarro Beach 39°11.30' 123°45.40' 121 93 Mendocino 05023 Manchester Beach State Park 38°59.03' 123°42.39' 121 83 Mendocino 05020 Goat Rock Beach 38°26.76' 123°07.64' 121 83 Sonoma 05021 Wright's Beach 38°24.15" 123°05.89! 121 83 Sonoma 05355 Drake's Beach 38°01.85" 122°57.58'! 121 82 Marin 05500 Bolinas Beach 37°54.28' 122°41.07' 121 72 Marin 05022 Stinson Beach State Park 37°53.60' 122°38.17' 121 72 Marin 05002 Thornton Beach State Park 37°41.92' 122°29.83' 121 72 San Mateo 05003 Francis Beach 37°28.05' 122°26.81' 121 72 San Mateo 05004 Natural Bridges State Park 36°57.02' 122°03.42' 121 62 Santa Cruz 05367 Capitola Beach State Park 36°58.40' 121°56.50' 121 61 Santa Cruz 05005 Twin Lakes State Park 36°57.70' 121°59.76' 121 61 Santa Cruz 05001 New Brighton Beach State Park 36°58.72" 121°56.10' 121 61 Santa Cruz 05006 Sea Cliff Beach 36°58.17' 121°54.73' 121 61 Santa Cruz 05007 Sunset Beach _ _36°53.80' _121°50.32 0 121 61__ Santa Cruz II. HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA LEO PROGRAM During the fall of 1966 the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) was asked by the U.S. Army Engineer District, San Francisco, to participate in a cooperative data collection program with the State of California. The program was to provide information on the natural forces and response elements in the littoral zone along the California coastline. CERC assumed the respon- sibilities of organizing the data collection and developing data collection OREGON 05310 ar eee DEL 7 aceIe NORTE { SISKIYOU \ 05036 ==) \ H leses | 05307 \ r. \ { Ne 05306 / HUMBOLDT j TRINITY 05302 Oo Vv c 0530! i mT ms) ( fo) a iS lb if : > aa \ 5 = Sax SY i LAKE / 4g ie Ie = ss au — \ \ wy), \ ee SONOMA is \ ™ aes A > 05 \ f c< 0502! (sorano 1 Ly 05355 =F) 05500 CONTRA COSTA | 05022 4 | L/ 2 CLARA \ eee i ZN ( —~.. SWIX ~ SAN Ce BENITO < 05007 monterey | Figure 1. Location map of LEO sites between Pelican Beach State Park and Sunset Beach (Monterey Bay), California. procedures and techniques, as well as serving as the central repository of the data. A pilot study was implemented at New Brighton State Beach, California, to evaluate instrumentation, data recording forms, and field procedures. Sub- sequently, volunteer observers were recruited by the California Division of Beaches and Parks, and the full-scale program was put into effect in the spring of 1968. The initial phases of the program were described by Berg (1968). III. SITE SELECTION In selecting the LEO sites, data needs for planning, design, construction, operation, and maintenance of possible future projects were taken into con- sideration. The existence of other data collection programs and the proximity to adjacent LEO sites were also factors. Since the program was a cooperative effort with the State of California, the selection of site locations was based on accessibility of the Division of Beaches and Parks' volunteer observers. The distribution of sites was fairly uniform along the northern California coast from the northernmost site at Pelican Beach State Park near the Oregon border to the site at Sunset Beach just north of Moss Landing. Inaccessible beaches and rocky areas were generally not considered; however, the density of sites selected increased in heavily used sandy beach areas such as northern Monterey Bay near Santa Cruz. There were six sites in Monterey Bay and five sites in the San Francisco area between Drake's Beach in the north to Pacifica. Two LEO sites, Pelican (05310) and Enderts (05313), were established in Del Norte County between the Oregon border and Point St. George. The northern- most site (Pelican) has a sandy beach backed by sand dunes, while at Enderts the terrain is rocky and the shore is backed by vertical cliffs. The Humboldt County shoreline forms the western border of a number of parks, e.g., Redwood National Park and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, and includes many beaches. Two sites, Prairie Creek Redwoods (05036) and Redwood Creek Beach (05307), were located in this area south of the Klamath River. The Mad River (05306) and Centerville Beach (05302) sites were situated be- tween Trinidad and Cape Mendocino, a distance of about 40 miles (64 kilo- meters). This part of the coast is a continuous sandy beach broken only by the entrance to Humboldt Bay and the outlets of several rivers. An additional site was established to the south at Shelter Cove (05301), which occupies a hook-shaped bay with a very rocky shoreline and ‘backshore. A total of five LEO sites were located in Mendocino County. The segment of coastline reaching from the Humboldt County line to Mistake Point, devoid of beaches and with limited access, is rocky and backed by cliffs. These shoreline characteristics are essentially the same for the MacKerricher (05026), Russian Gulch (05025), Van Damme (05024), and Navarre (05300) sites. The Manchester (05023) site was on a short stretch of sandy beach backed by dunes. The majority of the Sonoma County shoreline is rocky and rugged. Goat Rock (05020) and Wright's Beach (05021) sites were located south of the Russian River. This reach is also rocky with cliffs occasionally reaching heights of 20 to 50 feet (6.1 to 15.2 meters). The Drake's Beach (05355) site was situated within the Point Reyes National Seashore in Marin County. From Point Reyes south, the shoreline is crescent 10 shaped, forming Drake's Bay. Continuing south, the coastline is variable in character, including near-vertical offshore rocks and cliffs as seen at Bolinas (05500) to sandy beaches such as at Stinson Beach State Park (05022). The initial segment of the San Mateo County shoreline is made up of steep sea cliffs overlooking small, flat, sandy beaches such as exists at the Thornton Beach State Park (05002) site. The shoreline south of Pillar Point forms a hook-shaped bay and contains the town of Half Moon Bay and the Francis Beach (05003) site. Santa Cruz County has a shoreline 42 miles (67 kilometers) long. The northern half of the coast is rocky with a few small sandy beaches. To the south, a few miles below the town of Santa Cruz, the shoreline character changes to wide sandy beaches devoted mostly to recreational use; several small pocket beaches are also along the coastline. LEO sites were established at Natural Bridges (05004), Twin Lakes (05005), Capitola (05367), New Brighton (05001), Sea Cliff (05006), and Sunset (05007). IV. DATA COLLECTION AND STANDARD ANALYSES 1. Variables Measured. Based on the results of the pilot study at New Brighton State Beach, the following littoral variables were selected for observation: (a) Wave conditions including breaker height, period, direction, and breaker type (i.e., plunging, spilling, surging or spill-plunge); (b) wind speed and direction; (c) littoral current speed and direction; (d) beach foreshore slope (in some cases other beach dimensions such as berm width, etc., were also determined) ; (e) tide level; (£) water temperature; (g) rip current spacings if rip currents are present; (h) beach cusp spacings if beach cusps are present; and (i) monthly photos, sand samples, and comments describing beach conditions and other events. Surf and wind measurements, beach dimensions, rip currents, beach cusps, and water temperature were measured twice a day; photos and sand samples were taken once a month. An analysis of the LEO data collected during 1968 was presented by Szuwalski (1970). The current LEO program includes estimates of breaker height and period, direction, and breaker type in the surf observations. Period is determined by measuring the time of passage past a fixed point of 10 consecutive breakers. Breaker height is visually estimated to the nearest 10th of a foot. Direction of wave approach to the shoreline is estimated visually to the nearest degree using a hand-held protractor with its base oriented along the shoreline. Wind observations include speed and direction. Direction is referred to the eight- point compass directions by noting the sector from which the wind is blowing. A Dwyer wind meter is used to measure windspeed which is noted to the nearest mile per hour. Longshore current speeds are estimated by pacing the shore- parallel distance traveled in 1 minute of a dye packet thrown into the surf. Current direction to the right or left of an observer looking seaward is noted. Beach observations consist of estimates of the foreshore slope, measured to the nearest degree with an Abney topographic hand level. Monthly sand samples are taken from the swash zone at some sites. A typical instruction sheet provided to LEO observers under the current program is given in Appendix A. 2. Variation of Data Collection Techniques. Through experience gained during the operation, some collection procedures were improved to meet specific needs. The most significant change was that of wave angle determination. The compass sector method used in early observations was changed to the coastal sector method which was later improved by the pro- tractor method currently being used. Under the compass sector method an ob- server determined the orientation of the shoreline with respect to north, then recorded the wave approach from one of the eight primary compass directions. The coastal sector method eliminated the need to determine the approximate orientation of the shoreline. Direction of wave approach was estimated using the simplified protractor shown in Figure 2. Examples of compass sector and coastal sector output are shown in Figure 3. In the years following 1973 the coastal sector method was supplanted by the protractor method. A protractor, which is printed on the back of the LEO form, is oriented with its base parallel to the general shoreline orientation; the observer sights along the protractor in the direction of wave approach and re- cords the visually estimated direction to the nearest degree. Angles greater than 90° represent waves approaching generally from the right and driving the longshore current to the left, for an observer looking seaward. Angles less than 90° represent waves approaching from the left and driving the longshore current to the right. Shore-normal waves (wave crests parallel with shore) are recorded as 90° angles. The protractor is shown in Figure 4. 3. Standard Computer Output. LEO data are normally analyzed with data sets comprised of 1 year of obser- vations. Where an accumulation of 2 or more years of data is available, it may also be analyzed as a complete data set. As stated previously, this report makes the northern California LEO data available for use to coastal planners, designers, and researchers. Because of the quantity of data collected during the 1968-78 program it was not practi- cal to present all the data analyses and summary formats available, however, basic data summaries by year are given. a. Yearly Summary Report. The yearly summary report, as shown in Figure 3, provides monthly averages of breaker height, breaker period, angle of breaker approach to the shoreline, breaker type, longshore current velocity, foreshore 12 Shoreline @ Observer a. Compass Sector Method @ Observer LAND b. Coastal Sector Method Shoreline Simplified protractors used in both the compass sector (a) and coastal sector (b) methods to determine wave direction during early stages of LEO program. Figure 2. 13 Soou NATURAL BRIDGES JAN Sua 088, HeIGHT (FT) MEAN 3,08 870 OEv 1,42 NO, OBS, 59, PERIOD (SEC) MEAN 11,45 STO Dfv 1,86 NO. 068, $9, OTRECTION cOasTar secrur © occ. 1 0,00 2 0,00 3 0.00 a 0.00 5 0,00 calm 0,00 NO, 088, 06 cOHPaSS SE—CTO@ © occ, N 0,00 NE 0,04 t 0,00 fe 0,080 8 190,90 Se 0,00 “ 0,09 Nw 0,00 Cale 0,00 NO, OAS, 59. RREAKER TyPE &NCC SPILL ay,oS SP/PL 0,00 PLUNGE 10.17 QURGE 6,78 cals 0,09 NO, 89, 59. CURRENT ORS, (FT /BEC) Net MEAN 206 GROSS 4EAN i) $10 Otv oi? NO, OBS, VOo FORESHORE BL OPE MEAN (DEG) 3.17 STD DEV 1,05 NO, OHS, VOo RIPS x OCC 0,00 MG AN SPAC, 0,09 “oO, 08S, 59, Cusps x OCC, 0,00 WEAN BPAC, 0,00 NO, O88, 99. Figure 3. CALTFORNTA FEB MARCH old 2006 2048 7A a9, 55. 12,40 12,10 1.35 1041 $2. S52. 0,00 0.90 0.00 0200 0.00 0007 0.00 0.00 0.00 0204 0200 0200 %e 0. 0,00 0.00 9,00 0200 9.00 200 9.00 enn 109.00 199.00 0.090 0.00 9.00 0.00 9.00 9.00 0.00 0.00 50. S2. 100,90 90,74 0200 02006 290 9.26 0.00 0.08 0.00 0200 Sto Su, 2,040 2.0! off eft o!6 o13 260 2e, 2.79 Go4uA 268 2eld au, 25. 6.00 0.006 0.00 0.08 $2. Su, 0.00 0.000 9.90 0.00 $2. Sa, APRIL 1094 1091 Ste 11.93 2078 55. 11,54 26.92 53.85 7.69 200 0.00 26, 0.90 0000 9.00 290 100.00 0200 0.00 0000 0.00 29, 05.71 3.37 19071 9.00 0200 Se. eote 008 008 26, 1e22 042 27, 6000 0.00 S370 fed 4.00 57, May 2075 3.77 Sb. 12.03 3.19 SS. 0,00 20.00 ¥4.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 50. 0,00 0,00 0.00 0.08 0.08 0200 0.00 0000 0.00 Oo 160,00 0.00 0.09 0.00 0.00 Su, 2.03 004 007 27. 1eo3 249 27. 0,00 0.00 Se, 0.200 0.00 Se. JUNE 2,68 3,34 600 11,60 1,36 S685 9,00 21.67 Y1.67 6067 0,00 0,00 600 0,00 9,00 9,00 9.00 6.90 9,00 0,00 0.00 0,00 Oo 94,64 1.79 3,97 0,00 0,00 Soo SUPMARY FOR PERIOD STARTING JULY 3010 2.07 626 11063 1.63 620 0.00 27,42 70.97 1.61 0.00 0.00 626 0,00 0,09 0.00 0.00 0.00 0,00 0200 0.00 0.00 Oo 66.89 1Bell 0.00 0.00 0.00 Ole 200 004 007 Ve 1.65 2049 Se 0.00 0.00 2. 0,00 0,00 8. AUG SEPT 3.16 097 38, 12041 2039 58, 1078 19.30 76.95 0.000 0200 0.000 57. 0000 0000 0,00 0006 0.00 0.000 0200 0000 0000 Oo 45,61 26032 26.07 0000 0.00 ocr 3.25 1030 57. 12002 2033 SA, 1.72 23.86 y2.a4 0000 0.00 0200 58. 0090 0.000 0000 0000 9000 0000 0.000 0.00 0.000 0. 52063 14008 33033 0000 0000 37, ©0038 000 209 28, $097 019 29, 0000 0000 58, 0.60 0.00 368, fe 1270 AND ENDING I1e2G070, NOV 2047 1.01 17o 13,90 3,95 17o 1.68 0.00 0.000 17To 0.00 0.00 17e bec ALL 068, 2.78 1.96 S$6a, 12o11 2.23 $66, Typical yearly summary report, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, California. 14 80 90 100 170 180 SHORELINE SHORELINE CO) OBSERVER NOTE: Ifa pier is used for an observation platform: place O-180 line on the rail parallel to the centerline of the pier, site along the crest of the breaking waves and record the angle observed. Figure 4. Protractor on back of LEO form which is currently being used to obtain wave direction. slope, and rip current and beach cusp spacings. Monthly means, standard devi- ations, the number of observations taken, frequencies of occurrence (in per- cent), and the number of observations of calm conditions are also presented. For example, the first column in Figure 3 represents the summary of LEO obser- vations made for the month of January 1970 at site 05004, Natural Bridges, near Santa Cruz, California. During January, the average breaker height was 3.08 feet (0.9 meter) and the standard deviation of the observations was 1.42 feet (0.4 meter); these values are based on 59 observations made during the month. The mean and the standard deviation of the wave period during January were 11.45 and 1.86 seconds, respectively, based on the 59 observations. During January 1970 the compass sector method was being used and all waves were observed to approach from the south. The coastal sector method was adopted about mid-April 1970. This method gives a better resolution of wave direction than does the compass sector method, a major factor in the decision to modify the method. Note that for the months when the coastal sector method was in use (Fig. 3, April through November), a large majority of waves were in sector 3 indicating shore-normal or nearly shore-normal wave approach. This lack of resolution between upcoast and downcoast wave propagation and the re- sulting direction of sediment transport by longshore currents led to the sub- sequent adoption of the protractor method. The majority of breakers observed in January, 83.05 percent, were of the spilling type. Plunging and surging waves comprised 10.17 and 6.78 percent, respectively, of the observations. Calm conditions were not recorded. Longshore current observations indicated that the net average current was 0.06 foot (0.02 meter) per second. This represents the average of both positive (upcoast) and negative (downcoast) current velocities; hence, a zero or near-zero value does not imply that the average current speed was close to zero but rather that the vector average was close to zero. The gross mean is the average of the absolute values of the observed current speeds. For January this value was 0.19 foot (0.06 meter) 15 per second with a standard deviation of 0.17 foot (0.05 meter) per second. Current observations were made about once a day since only 30 observations were made. Foreshore slope averaged 3.17° with a standard deviation of 1.05° based on 30 observations. There were no observed rip currents or beach cusps in January 1970 at Natural Bridges. The last column in the Yearly Summary Report (Fig. 3) gives data values averaged for all the data acquired during the year. b. Wind Roses. The wind rose plots represent wind speeds and directions recorded during the entire period of record. An example is shown in Figure 5. Windspeeds are plotted as frequency of occurrence, in percent, according to the compass direction from which they blow. The term "insufficient data" indicates that less than 10 wind observations were taken for that particular month. V. OTHER TYPES OF DATA ANALYSES AVAILABLE Computer programs in a number of analyses and formats are available that provide various additional statistical summaries of LEO data. These programs will be provided to users on request. Examples of the various data formats follow. 1. Daily LEO Printouts. An example of a daily LEO printout is given in Figure 6. The listing is simply the daily values of the LEO observations presented chronologically for a given month. Each month of data is listed on separate sheets. The date and time of each observation are given along with the values of each data entry made for that series of observations. Each line corresponds to the data entered on a completed LEO form. For example, for the observation made at 1515 hours (24-hour clock) on 3 April 1968 (Fig. 6, second line) breakers 3 feet (0.9 meter) high with a period of 20.0 seconds were reported. Surging breakers occurred and the waves were generally approaching from the southwest. The windspeed was 20 miles (32 kilometers) per hour, blowing from the northwest. No currents were observed at this time. (The asterisks indicate that no obser- vation was made; zeros indicate that an observation was made but its value was zero.) 2. Frequency and Cumulatiye Frequency Histograms of Breaker Height and Period. These printouts provide an annual statistical summary of wave height and wave period probabilities. Figure 7 is an example of wave height histograms prepared for data collected between April 1968 and November 1970 at Natural Bridges. Data are tabulated for wave heights at 1-foot (0.3 meter) intervals. For example, Figure 7 shows that 32.6 percent (576 of the 1,765 observations) of the wave height observations made at Natural Bridges fell in the interval 2.0 SH, < 3.0 where Hj, is the breaker height. The lower half of Figure 7 shows that 56.1 percent of the waves (991 of 1,765 observations) at Natural Bridges were greater than or equal to 30 feet (9.1 meters). Figure 8 pro- vides similar information for wave periods at 1-second intervals. 3. Joint and Marginal Probabilities for Breaker Height and Period. The probability distribution of wave heights for a given wave period inter- val is available in tables of the joint wave height and wave period probabilities. 16 JANUARY SEPTEMBER Figure 5. WIND ROSES 5004 NATURAL BRIDGES CALIFORNIA FEBRUARY JUNE AC TALLR Typical wind rose California. MARCH 7 APRIL JULY AUGUST NOVEMBER OECEMBER plots, LEO site 05004, Natural Wt ANNURL AVERAGE reecentace 1m OATA BASED GN GBSERVATIONS COLLECTED OURING THE PERIGO 03 APR 68 TG 24 NOV 70 Bridges, NATURAL BAIJOGES APR19606 Bay Time WAVE SEC PERIOD 3 900 11,0 Sie lisitts) 2009 4 915 13.0 4 15195 14.0 Si siele) 13.0 ) 930 190$ 6 1115 1309 @ 1560 900 7 1115 1200 7 1500 900 6 930 14.0 6 1530 16.0 9 1130 14.$ 9 1519 14,8 10 1130 15.0 10 1515 4.8 11 o208 14,5 | 430 1305 12 619 13.0 12 1500 12.$ 13 4415 13.0 13 1315 1100 14 #4413 1360 14 1300 12.0 15 900 14.0 15 1500 12.8% 16 919 13.0 16 1515 13.0 17 930 14.5 17) 1515 ry) 18 915 1505 16 1595 13.0 19 1815 15.0 20 915 1208 20 1515 14.5 ai 915 120$ 21 1500 Von 22 998 150$ 22 1030 16.5 23 seen 130% 23 1545 15.0 eu eoe8 1200 a4 915 14.9 25 1500 13.$ 26 900 11.0 20 61500 13.0 27 1015 13.0 27 1500 a) 26 1500 13.8 29 945 13.8 29 1560 1600 30 830 1300 30.) 06—1500 13.0 LITTORAL ENV?ZRUNMENT MBSERVATIONS (LEO) (05004) ,CALIFORNIA WAVE WAVE FEET MEIGHT OTR Sw bw $ 5 8 cAwwerw ROP mee Ew RD & Rw ow Ree — ww en ewe wVvouww Fwwwhr eM AN RR @wwe @oncue FQoee¢cran@anwe a=} Coenen QHOAeowe GeEOUnwne wnewuveon eamnaoge =z mew 8 i) § WAVE TVPE SPILL SURGE SPILL BURGE PLUNGE SPILL SPILL PLUNGE SPILL PLUNGE SPILL SPILL SPILL PLUNGE PLUNGE SPILL SPILL PLUNGE SPILL SPILL SPILL PLUNGE PLUNGE PLUNGE PLUNGE PLUNGE SURGE SURGE SURGE SURGE SPILL $1 RGE SPILL PLUNGE SPILL SPILL guaGEe SURGE PLUNGE SPILL SURGE SURGE SPILL SURGE SPILL PLUNGE PLIINGE SURGE SURGE PLUNGE SURGE PLUNGE SU®8GE eee MEANS ITPM wag LEFT BLANK @1 LUNGSHURE CURRENT DIRECTION INDICATES FLOW TU THE LEFT> 4 RIGHT FLOWe AND O NU FLOW Figure 6. WIND MPH SPEER DIR 4 NE 20 Nw 6 NE {5 Sw 20 Nw 10 Nw 5 Nw 7 Nw 7 Nw 5 Nw 3 Sw 7 Sw 6 Sw 5 Sw 4 Sw / Sw 9 Sw 0 Ca 5 Sw 4 Sw 4 Sw 9 Sw 15 Sw 9 Sw 4 Sw 16 Sw 10 Sw 15 Nw C) Ne 7 NW © Sw 15 Nw 9 Sw +) SE 15 Nw 5 Sw 20 Sw 9 Sw 4 Sw 5 8w 10 Sw 20 Sw 6 Sw 12 Sw 1 Sw 15 Sw 9 Sw 10 Sw C) Sw 0 Sw 15 Sw 4 Sw 15 Sw APR1 968 LONGSHU FI/SEC CURREN 030 atone o4f etene ateen RE oIR t el 9s el as a8 ol 1 oe 1 as o} es el es #8 ol ae HERM FEET FEET ELEY REACH 6.5 155 es6s 8 8een 5.0 135 ese Sate eone SEHe 4.5 135 4.5 135 aoee Reese 4.5 135 othe SOR% 500 135 aos 8 Seee eee SEK Gov 150 eos 8 Fa8e eate 8 SERe 905 150 9.5 150 eo9e) 8 eae 9.5 150 geae Sea 9500 150 eee | Baee 9065 150 aoe Bey 5.0 135 eoea Saag 5.0 135 este 985 5.0 150 eon Saey esas) Sane 500 150 wees 8 SERe 5.0 150 Pt eT Pt 5.0 150 A) 130 eeon F968 eee &eee 500 150 eee Seay 5.0 150 ashe Sane 500 150 esse 8 Se8e aoe 6 8Ree 500 150 eeGen FeRe 5.0 150 eoee teeD SHORE NEG SLOPE 2 en i Ss APR1968 RIPS CUSPS @ IRREGULAR SPACING@FEET 40 50 90 95 95 40 50 30 30 102 60 50 Typical daily LEO printout, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, California. WATER DEG F TEMP ee es ee o¢ ae as oe ae TIOe ‘eTurojTTe9 ‘sosptag TeanjzeN ‘yYO00GO 237s OUT ‘suwerz304sty Aouenbeaz aaTtQeTnund pue Aduenbsiryz AUSTEeY AeyxeeAq TeoTdAL °f oan3sTy S9LT SNOTAVAN3S8O JO Y3EWNN W101 0° # 1°% # €°T pea 2° eneoeeees 0°OT Seetovdeeeseetwuecooneonedces 9°92 FHOSHHSOEHHTMOPPOPHEPETTOHOHOHTHHHOLeUEODetHoenreecned [°9S SHOMAOOHAOOAHTPASAHOHOOETHPOPTTHGOHTHHHEHOSTOTHHOTHPOTHTHOO OEM TeHTeHH teen eorHeoonen 9°R@R HSAAOPARAATOATOSHEHHAHHHEE AGHA POHTHH HEFT O RETO OSS TREO HEP HHOTHPOTDTOCHCT HEHE eeeoeeHOnHA tee 6°66 eee eee Se eee eee Le eee ee ee ee er ee ek ee et eS ae Rk oe ak 8) 0°00 POSS SCC, SOESCEEOO Zs SOS OEOESE LOO ESO HOSEL FLO OOEHOHLOOSOSOSHHZ FOO FSLOOHL GOOG AISCLZ OSOL LC LOCLOZCLCLO LOCC? 00T 06 098 OL 09 0s 0% 0¢€ 02 ot 0 ®& # 6°T eoaeen 8°9 soteonecooanoetcen 9°OT Heeeanenteotvotencereeoooee GSoLe Sageusereeneoecettenenceancenmoce 9°2E tesannecane 2°UT A imaiand Sweeneckie alee amy Cece ae wy Ree age erat Behn we iey aaa Gye ete Soke ole 1 06 08 OL 09 0g 08 oc 02 ot é & 0 0°t 0 o°te 9 o°t2 9 0°02 9 0°6t 9 0°et 9 o°Lt 9 o°9l 9 o°st 8 0°%T ot o°et ct 0°2t tT o°tt LT 0°0t LT 0°6 61 0°s €2 o°2 Ls 0°9 wat 0°S sos 0°% 166 ore 49ST 0°2 VOLT o°t SILT 0° AIN3INO3IN4 WAYS BATLV WN LHOT 0 ° 9 oc ol (') O°t2> OL 0 0°02> OL 0 0°61> OL (') o°et> OL (') Q°2t> OL 0 O°Ot> OL 9 0°ST> OL r4 O°e%t> O1 € O°Et> OL T o°2t> OL € O°tt> Ol 0 0°OT> OL 4 0°6 > OL 9 0°s8 > OL ve o°2 > OL o2T 0°9 > O1 e2e 0°S > OL 984 0° > OL 92S o°e > OL Lol o°2 > OL T o°t > OL WAH] AIN3INGAYA 1H9 qe <2 OL O°TY ee € O°Ty> OL O°TE arena 9°9 eet O°Te> QL O°t2 y° 8 0°T!2]> OL 0°02 €° S 0°02> OL 6°61 7 O°T 2€ O°6t> OL O°at » 8°T 2 O°et> O2 b°zt nena 2°C 99 O°2T> OL 0°9% rane 6°9 J") O°9E> OL O°St Hennapone 226 iw et O°St> OL O°9T Heavoseosneneen Loot 292 O°7T> OL O°CT tteneepeenoneeoeenon 9OTZ 2e¢ O°ET> OL 0°28 teeaghoenetosonoewone GTZ BE O°2%> OL O°TT aeae gey Sse O°UL> O1 O°OT ae O0°C €S 0°OT> OL 0°6 » 0°2 Se 0°6 > OL 0°89 # S°f 2 0°@ > OL 0°2 9° Ol 0°2 > OL 0°9 2 y 0°9 > OL O°S i T 0°S > OL O°% 1° 2 0°y > OL O°€ te 1 0°E > OL 6°2 e° ¢€ 0°2 > OL O°T 9° 4 O°t > QL 0° 8 POCO H HOF PHP OPLHH OZ OOOH 99 OO GE OOOOO0OOD8SOHLH 09H 09 OO00988THR OOO HHOHH9ZSH0S0GDNOZOCOTOOOOOE ROH OOODOS AWAUSINI 00t 06 08 OL 09 0S 049 0€ 02 Ot 0% AOSNINOINS aoluad OL/ve7tl O1 B97E 4¥ WOYS 031937709 Viva S3001NB WYNLVN 9700S SWVYSOLSIH GOTYad '3AVA 20 Figure 9 is an example of the Natural Bridges data obtained between April 1968 and December 1968. The table shows that 38 of 480 observations had wave heights in the interval 2.0 < H, $ 2.9 (since wave heights are only reported to the nearest 0.1 foot this interval is effectively 2 < H, < 3.0) and with periods, T, in the interval 13.0°< T £< 13.9 (effectively 13 < T < 14.0). Conditional proba- bilities can be developed from information in the table. The marginal proba- bility data for wave periods are given in the last three columns of the table, while marginal probability data for wave heights are given in the bottom three rows. To a certain extent, the marginal probability data are redundant with the probability data given in the histograms of Figures 7 and 8. 4, Monthly Average Breaker Height and Period Versus Time. The time variations of the monthly average breaker height and period are plotted against time in Figure 10 and seasonal variations of the parameters are evident. The figure shows that average monthly wave heights dipped below 2 feet (0.6 meter) during the spring and increased to near 3 feet (0.9 meter) during autumn in 1970. 5. Longshore Current Histogram. The longshore current histogram provides information on the frequency of occurrence of current speeds and direction within specific speed intervals. The current speed is tabulated in increments of 0.25 foot (0.08 meter) per second. For example, tabulation in Figure 11 shows no current (calm) condi- tions prevailed 29.9 percent of the time. For an observer facing seaward, cur- rents moving to the right at speeds between 0.5 and 0.75 foot (0.1 and 0.2 meters) per second occurred 2.1 percent of the time. Currents moving to the .left at the same speed interval prevailed 2.1 percent of the time. 6. Longshore Current Versus Time. Figure 12 is an example of the time history of longshore current velocity at Natural Bridges for 1969. Each current observation is represented by a vertical line above or below the horizontal line for currents to the right or left, respectively. The length of the line corresponds with the magnitude of the velocity. The monthly average current velocities are represented by cir- cles. The figure shows that the average January current velocity was about 0.25 foot per second to the left, and the maximum observed current velocity in January was about 1.0 foot per second to the left. VI. DATA PRESENTATION The data from the 25 northern California sites are presented in Appendix B in geographic order, starting with the northernmost site at Pelican Beach State Park to the southernmost site at Sunset Beach in Monterey Bay. All the data for a given site are together. Yearly summary reports are given for each year during which some data were collected, even if data were obtained for only a few observations or a few months during that year. These annual summaries are followed by a cumulative annual summary, in the same format, of all data from the site. 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