> >> abe ea 3 RIV “¥ ‘ r\ A ee tak Ry S \ } RP RRS 8 AX +ey>: AW fi irs PAs Gro ed a ed Oh ee Bg hk fhe et S See ae eee . Rope i oy ps WM viv Nd 4 Ww é Find ej A IANS es 4 2 ~2D 1 ay © a had Na ew ete PS : ‘ fs pitts © ee h bs Pagal 1. ARNG , é ads Wid et : vs Hees eae A Way | NAY, S| * AN th J oh? . : ‘ ~ J P ;: e a) ee) cS ‘ «} ‘Bowe 0 “4 i feet. ‘ a Nw ; we” a Ree ee as ky fh SRE No Ne ‘ th AL A OTN. * dd IRSA 2 td Wiv'te » 4 es J 2 es ast i. BS >t Cc PS (CTE 6: SHEET > Oo PA BA SF ye TE Shelf. SCIENTIFIC LIBRARY, \ Uniteo States Pa Case f f / A AP nN Wo We AAMAS. Aannnr AN nnn re ay NAL, AR = AN R A 1 as \; f is A AA A\\p lan x 7N\\iee' AVA f fi AY. WAI Yo WAT Ye A A nee 6 A a fa\llom foe, Bee nt A a NES Aan A is A = cei Gi Aaa Zu €° ; A ; EAC ( on & <<< A mice. EOC = aK, LC i << me ant ae a , 5 7 7 r £ Co > Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1837, by EDWARD SAYERS, In the Clerk’s Office of the District of New-Jersey. @Y tfeosler [cog Pat. Office Lit, April igid « > C Lee mic c c¢ € « < icv ie « Cre fe c . Auth « ¢ < Cee ec © « ret < « c ec c « c en's « cus c € ¢ c os’ € ec ¢ Or « ( <¢ ret GcAC € c € A c cc «< c « C r c Cent co SPC c ce c Calc Car c Seow fata eat Cc € Geena c ¢ Sete i c Cn F C ¢ « c C.ch € c C ¢ 4 Cc. ¢ c c crc : Rach ccicuy « « c c c f c ¢ c c i co c oS « c Cm c c cane aie PREFACE. In introducing the following little Manual, it will be proper to say that it has been penned in haste in conse- quence of many urgent solicitations that have been made for some practical hints on the culture of the Grape. The remarks given relative to the natural causes of disease, and the best manner of counteracting them in an infant state, have been added with a view to throw as much light on the subject as possible. The remarks on the probable improvement and naturalization of the seed of the foreign Grape, have been suggested with a hope that the culture: of the Grape, like all other fruit, will be much improved and soon become a princi- ple ornament in domestic gardening. Some practical hints are also given on the manage- ment of the Vinery, which is now engaging the attention of many persons, therefore the subject has been as much as possible adapted to the purpose of general culture. The concluding remarks on the nature and qualities of fruit trees are given as practical hints relative to the many causes by which fruit is liable to be deterred from a free growth and good quality. iv With these few remarks, the author respectfully presents this little Manual to the public, in hopes that it may answer the intended purposes of being really useful to those who are desirous of cultivating their own Grapes and choice fruits, E. SAYERS. CHAPTER I. ARTICLE I. Cursory Remarks on the Culture of the Grape- Vine. After the many able works that have been written on the Culture of the Grape- Vine, little remains to be said in this place, as original matter on the subject: but, as this work may come into the hands of persons unacquaint- ed with its cultivation and are desirous of making some enquiry into a practical mode of management that has been followed, I herein subjoin some facts that have come under my practical observation. In my remarks I shall principally confine the subject to the Ili effects of bad managemen!, which perhaps is the best manner to throw light on a correct method of culture, and illustrate the many ill effects arising from the well being of the Grape-Vine. The Grape-Vine is subject to many casual injuries, especially in summer, owing chiefly to the very porous nature of the wood and leaves, which render it suscepti- ble to many diseases, as the Mildew, Red Spider, &c. _ by which many crops of fruit are totally lost. What- al ever food, impurity of air, or epidemical disease is_pre- J 2 ON THE CULTURE sent to the Grape-Vine, it is rcadily imbibed by it, and the vine either flourishes or sickens, according to the presence of such food or disease. The roots also ex- tract any injurious matter from the soil in a_ liquid state, which is quickly conveyed to the extremity of the branches and most minute parts: hence the Grape-Vine has often been resorted to by Phytologists to investigate the circulation of the sap, which has given rise to many useful fucts being proved, by charging the sap-vessels of the wood with colored fluids which have been traced to the Icaves, &e. The porous nature of the vine may be easily disco- vered by cutting a transverse section of the summer's wood, and holding it to the light, when the vessels will be clearly seen sufficient to prove what has here been said on the subject. The mismanagement of the Grape-Vine may be fre- quently traced to the neglect of summer pruning, particularly in City Gardens, where it generally finds a place; for whena Grape-Vine is allowed to grow without any restraint or summer pruning, it seldom brings its fruit to any perfection, or grows in a healthy state. This defect is owing to the wood growing too thic’\ly together, the consequence is, that it is of a soft sappy nature, and not proper to bear fruit or withstand the winters severity. This fact may be seen by any in- telligent observer. Such Grape-Vines, as haye not been summer pruned OF THE GRAPE. a will be found to be very thick of wood, so much so that the sun and air have been partly excluded from the under branches which are consequently weak, and the fruit small, and of an inferior quality, with many of the berrizs rotting from the bunches, owing to their being too much shaded. If the vines are allowed to remain in this state, the fruit will not ripen, and therefore it will not obtain its proper quality, consequently it will be un- pleasant to the taste and unwholesome to the stomach. ARTICLE II. Soil and Location. In describing the culture of the Grape, the nature of the soil best adapted to it will be the first considera- tion, which in all cases will require to be highly ma- nured, which is fully exemplified by common observa- tion, as the Grape-Vine generally thrives and produces well in City gardens, where a quantity of manure is al- ways present from soap-suds, ashes, and other nutri- ments. The best soil for the Grape-Vine, is that ofa rich loamy nature, with a portion of sand; but, almost any natural soil will perfect native Grapes, if richly manured, on condition that the sub-soil is dry; wet bottoms, are in all cases injurious to the growth of the Grape. — 4 ON THE. CULTURE Location.—The Location best adapted to the - vine is a sheltered situation with a good exposure to the south’ east quarter, and if a little elevated 'the better. Al- though.I have never been convinced that a high* loca- tion is of any benefit to the Grape. The Isabella, and most native Grapes, I have noticed to thrive and bear the best in Towns and Cities on Trel- lises situated on. the South or East aspect, and I have also noticed that the elevated locations of such Cities have not been so congenial to them as flat bottoms: this may be accounted for by the situation being less subject to sudden changes of the influence of the sun and air, and other changes on high locations, ARTICLE III. Propagation of the Grape- Vine. There are many methods by which the Grape-Vine is propagated or increased as by the single eye, the cut- ting, the layer, and by seed. The most simple and suc- cessful, is by cuttings off the young wood, three or four eyes or joints long, which are inserted about half way in the ground, in rows 18 inches apart, and 6 inches apart in therows. The mannerof performing the work is to well prepare the ground by digging, &c. then seta garden line and inseit your cuttings regularly by the proper OF THE GRAPE. 5 distance, closing the ground well about them with the foot. The management of the cuttings of the first year is simply to keep the ground clean and well cultivated. If a shady location is chosen for the cuttings, they will root the better, many being lost in this climate, by drought. The best time of setting them is in the spring, when the frost has disappeared. Second Year's Culture.—If the young plants are to remain the second year in the Nursery, (which is by far the best method,) they should be pruned about the beginning of March, by cutting off their shoots to two or three eyes, when the ground is open, if a quantity of good rotten manure be thrown between the rows, and neatly dug in, the plants will be much benc- fitted. When the young shoots begin to grow, they are to be finger-pruned by breaking off all the shoots to three or four, one of the strongest of these will require to be trained to a stake, and the others shortened when they are from one foot to eighteen inches long. The ground between the vines will require kceping clean, and the plants often looked over, during the sum- mer, and divested of their dead and sickly leaves, and any insects or other nuisance that may be hurtful to their health, and every means of good culture should be ap- plied to grow them strong and vigorous. {* ee 6. ON THE CULTURE CHAPTER II. ARTICLE I. Preparing the Grovnd and Planting. In all cases where the Grape is to be planted the ground should be well prepared, by putting on to it a quantity of rotten manure, and well ploughing or dig- cing it to a proper depth. Every precaution should be taken to take up the young plants without cutting the roots too near the stem. The roots should be traced and left at least two or three feet from the stem. When the plants are thus carefully taken out of the ground, they should be as soon as pos- sible replanted in a hole sufficiently large to admit the roots in their natural position, which should be laid in a | regular manner in the hole, about the same. depth in the ground as in the nursery. Having planted the vines carefully, nothing more is . required but to re- mind the planter, that good culture is always to be at-. tended to, by digging, keeping: the. ground clean, and. good management... - —2 OF THE :\GRAPE* CHAPTER IIL ARTICLE I. Summer Pruning of the Grape. The proper method of summer pruning the Grape- Vine, is simply to regulate the young wood in such a manner thatthe sw and air has free access to every part: of the vine; every part of the vine that isnot so exposed, cannot obtain its proper quality, as the leaves of vines are synonymous to the lungs of animals, and imbibe the air in a similar manner, therefore the quality is more or less replete in proportion to its free exposure, and the young: woodisthesame. Thismay be clearly seen by examin-: ing a vine thickly covered with wood, the extreme branch- } es of which are always healthy, because they have the~ benefit of the swa and air and every thing congenial to- them. But, those which are thick andshaded are very» weak, the leaves thin, turn yellow and: decay; the - wood is soft, green, and sappy, and perishes in the-win-:- tery acd is therefore useless: the -bunches of Grapes» that are: under the branches of the-vine-have small-ber-. ries, and many of them: drop: off after rain and moist» a xd 8 ON THE CULTURE weather, and those that remain are not well colored nor well flavoured ; this is the effects of the absence of sun and air. The regular process of summer pruning the Grape- Vine is to commence early in the spring, as soon as the young shoots are grown three or four inches in length. The first thing to be done isto take off all the weakly shoots where two or three are growing together in clus- ters, leave but one, the most healthy and vigorous.— (This is termed Finger Pruning.) 'The next opera- tion is the stopping the wood, which is performed by nipping it off between the finger and thumb two joints above the bunches of Grapes, which are at this time to be seen in all parts of the vine; but care must be ta- ken to leave strong healthy shoots ina regular man- ner in every part of the vine, for young bearing wood for the next year without stoppmg. These shoots should be left about eighteen inches apart in every part of the vine. In this operation the shoots should be regulated at their proper distances and neatly tied with bass matting or strings, and the young wood and bunches of fruit be as much as possible so placed as to have free access to sun and air. When the young wood is properly regulated at equal distances, that every part enjoys the sun and air, the after management is to take away all dead decayed leaves, and keep the vine in every respect in a clean and healthy state. The lateral shoots should also be i oF ae. OF) THE; GRAPE: 9 broken.or nipped. off at different times that the vine may: not .be-weakened by them. Lateral shoots are those which grow from-the.eyes of the young wood,'and are of no use to the vine either at this time of growth or- the next year’s fruiting wood, but draw. a- portion of substance from it in-proportion to their number; hence the utility of removing such shoots. In taking off lat- erals care must be taken to nip them off one eye from the main or longitudinal shoots: this:is one grand point in. summer pruning, which is often:improperly done by nipping them too close; the consequence is, that the eye bursts and grows at an improper season,: which causes a barrenness the next year, owing to the neglect of leav- ing-a proper bud, to carry off the superfluous sap, which is effected. by leaving an eye on the end ‘of. the lateral, from. which the current of sap is kept in motion; the laterals must: be often taken off and the bunches thinned when the fruit is as large.as small peas. The method of thinning is to leave the bunches as regular as possible in every part. One bunch should | be left on a shoot of the present year’s wood, where the _ branches are weak, and two on those of stronger erowaly and no more than two in any place. . The benefit arising from thinning the b mel the Grapes are better flavored and -the fruit: finer; + the wood is also better ripened, and | ‘more vigorous, and i every .way better for fruiting the following season: Winter Pruning. —Pruning the Grape-Vine has been 10 ON THE CULTURE held in such consideration in Europe, that different systems have been resorted to, and applied as a correct theory of art. They are the Thomeroy, Spurring and the Caning. The Thomeroy is performed by forming the vine in such a manner that the old wood always remains form- ing the frame, and all the young wood is cut into two or three eyes for fruiting. The Spurring is performed by cutting the vine so that spurs of the young wood are left from four to six eyes tegularly over the vine for fruiting; and in different parts the wood is cut to two eyes for throwing out young wood. The Caning system is performed by managing the vine so that the fruit is produced from canes of young wood, four or six feet long, which are cut off every alternate year; and other shoots are regularly trained to take their places. Experience has taught me, that a medium plan between the spurring and caning system is the best. The best time for pruning the Grape-Vine is the middle of February, when the severity of the winter has acted on it so as to injure the soft yom which is incapable of producing fruit. The first consideration in pruning is to have a sharp knife, in order that the wounds where amputations are made, may be cleanand smooth. All the soft and small wood must be taken out, and then a portion of the old es OF THE GRAPE. 11 in such a manner, that the vine is regularly supplied in every part with young wood. The principle object to be kept in view is to leave proper wood for fruiting, which is that of the last year’s growth: the old wood serves as a main leader or frame of the vine. In selecting the fruiting wood, care must be taken to leave that which is well ripened ; the eyes should be plump and well formed, and so that every part of the vine is well supplied, about two feet apart, with young fruiting wood, the shortening of which must be according to their quality, to about ten or fif- teen eyes of young wood, well hardened, which will be discovered by cutting it; if the part intended to be left is not hard and well ripened, it should be cut lower until you are satisfied. Having thus selected your fruiting wood, the next consideration is to leave eyes for the next year’s wood, which is done by cutting the shoots of last year’s growth to two or three eyes, from which a supply of young wood will be obtained for summer training, as before directed, pruning is completed, the wooed must be neatly tied with bass mat or other string to the trellis, and if any loose bark or rubbish be about it, it should be cleaned away. or Fae cs ‘< ror. Sa, aE Xe La pee : * . me . by I 4 - ee = x the next year’s fruiting. _When the 3c, }2 ON-THE CULTURE CHAPTER IV. ANATURALIZING THE FOREIGN GRAPE. ARTICLE I. ‘Growing the Grape from Seed. It is little to be doubted that the native Grape, as well as other fruits indigenous to this country, will be at no very distant day, much improved by raising new vari- eties from seed, especially if the native varieties are crossed by the foreign, as, the native Isabella with the foreign Black Hamburgh, and the Scupernong with the White Sweetwater, Chassalias, &c. of Europe. _ From this crossing it is very probable that the flavor of the native varieties will be much improved and at the same time they, being natural to the climate, will retain all the hardy qualities requisite to the country. It is much to be hoped that every encouragement will be given to such pe sons as enter into raising seedling Grapes of the country : such persons should be patron- ized by premiums from the different Horticultural Societies, by which it would stimulate many to embark into a subject that would be really useful to all clas of people. When it is recellected that the Crab- apie is the primitive of all the ame varieties of apples now — ai & » Agetcn: 8) i+ a 7. 4% OF THE GRAPE. 13 extant, which have been worked up to a fine quality mostly by culture and seedlings, it is as reasonable to suppose that the same improvement is to be made on the Grape, in a very few years. A trial will most probably justify these remarks if properly and perseveringly fol- lowed. In trying the experiment, I would recommend that the Isabella Grape, when in flower, be impregnated with the foreign Grape, as the Black Hamburgh; or, perhaps, the Burgundy would be more proper. From the seed of these Grapes raise young vines by sowing it in pots of rich soil, early in the spring, and plunge the pots in a moderate hot-bed the beginning of March. When the young plants are well rooted, plant them in rows, eighteen inches apart, and train and manage them as directed, page 5. When the seedlings are in a fruiting state, 1 recommend that the best varie- ties are selected for seed, and the same experiment be followed through three or four generations, until the desired object be obtained of producing varieties that are well flavored and ameliorated to the climate. ARTICLE I, Naturalizing the Grape by Cutting; and Grafting. While I am on the subject of Naturalizing the For- eign Grape, it may not be improper to throw some , 2 14 ON THE CULTURE hints on the probability of its bemg much facilitated by a continual raising of young vines, yearly, from cut- tings; and grafting on the native varieties. The experiment I would recommend to be tried is, by first propagating the Black Hamburgh or White Sweetwater, from cuttings taken from a healthy ve, as near as possible to the root. The cuttings I would recommend to be of the last year’s wood, and that which is hard and short-jointed; put the cuttings into a rich soil, and open exposed situation, where they may have the free access of swa and air, and the changes of the season; the plants should be distinctly by themselves so that nothing may retard their strong and healthy erowth. Every facility should be given to encourage their growth, and any insect or disease that attacks them, if possible, be expelled. One shoot only should be allowed to grow from the cutting, trained to a stick, and not be allowed to lay on the ground, as it will be liable to be infected with Mildew or other disease. From the young wood of the vine, next to the old wood, the following spring, take another cutting from each plant of three or four eyes, which strike and man- age as before recommended, throwing away the mother plant, which will be useless in this process. The same process may be continued for ten or fifteen years, when it is very probable the vines from the plants of that generation will be much naturalized and less subject to the disease natural to the climate. OF THE GRAPE. T5 Another process may be tried by grafting the foreign Grape upon the native varieties taken from woods, by cleft-grafting, which should be done close to the ground. The young shoots from the graft may be managed as directed for the cuttings; and a new plant grafted yearly from the part next to the stock, on a fresh plant of the native vine. In throwing out the above hints, I cannot pretend that acertainty of gaining the desired purpose of natu- ralizing the foreign Grape can be vouched from any practical authority or experiment that has been made under my knowledge; but, from an actual experience of many plants that have become hardened and natu- ralized by nearly the same treatment, I see no reason why the Grape may not be brought to stand the climate in the like manner. 16 ON THE CULTURE CHAPTER V. ARTICLE I. Dis-ase of the Grape. From general observation and many experiments I have been fully convinced that the native Grapes, here recommended, when well cultivated, are seldom injured either by disease or insects, that most kinds of eatable fruits are subject to; and that most kinds of foreign Grapes, on the contrary, are affected by many diseases and insects, ina manner that will ever discourage their culture in the vineyard or open exposure, unless they can be naturalized to the climate. Ona deliberate examination of the Grape-Vine, I think the above re- marks may be fully authenticated, and it will be found that the native Grape-Vine is naturally of a more hardy and compact texture in its wood, leaves, berries, and indeed, in every part, than the foreign varieties: hence Mildew and insects are not so likely to infect the native as the foreign Grape. I am firmly of an opimion that the casualties that happen to the Grape, generally are more owing to the feeble nature of the vine, than any blights or insects that attack it at any period of its OF THE GRAPE, 17 growth, although at the same time I am aware that the most healthy vines are often affected, by disease and insects, in a greater or less degree. By comparing the leaves of the native and foreign Grape, it will be seen that the former is of a much firmer and more compact nature than the latter, and perhaps, as nature is ever perfect in her works, such leaves do not either perspire or respire so freely as those of the foreign Grape, that are of a softer and more succulent nature; and hence we may infer that the sudden changes do not act so inj uriously on the native as on the foreign Grape. The wood of the foreign Grape is rarely well ripened in the fall, and has generally more pith than the native ; therefore, supposing it was not attacked by disease in the summer, the winter’s severity and sudden changes would naturally act very severely on it, particularly on a southern aspect, where the sap is liable to be often frozen and thawed daring the winter and early part of spring, which must certainly burst “some of the Api & vessels and cause muc - | . The most injurions d d: ea an 1 tender \ hen e made of the Mildew ch dis seased; I believe that when t, the disease is 18 ON THE CULTURE conveyed to every part of it through the sap-vessels, and the constitution of the vine is so materially injured that it takes some time to recover it to its pristine health and. quality. Whether the Mildew is an animalcwle or fungous, I will not pretend to determine; but I am of an opinion that it is at first generated by a stagnation taking place in the leaf, in such a manner that the pores of it are stopped; the consequence is, that an impure matter is present which is imbibed by the leaf, which contaminates the sap of the vine, and is thence communicated to every part of it in a shorter or longer period. I shall not pretend to pre- scribe any remedy as acure; but remind my reader that good culture may, in a great measure, in this and every other case of disease, be the best remedy; for certain it is, that all kinds of vegetables are most severely injured by disease when weakly, and the more healthy they are, the less liable to be affected. ee ? pt ae ARTICLE II. Select varieties of Native Grapes rhe Som * “The native varieties Beet ade apted for arbors, and gen- OF THE GRAPE. 19 lows in “ Kenerick’s Orchardist,” a work that should be in the hands of every fruit g1ower. “ Isabella.—This fine native Grape is extraordinary for the vigor of its growth, and wonderful productive- ness. The bunches are of a large size; the berries are large and of an oval form; the color is a dark purple, approaching to black, and covered with bloom ; the skin is thin, with but little pulp; the flesh is juicy, rich, sweet and vinous. By hanging the bunches in a room, it has been ascertained that they lose that very small portion of muskiness they possess. This Grape makes excellent wine, and requires no protection in’ this climate. “ Catawba.—This is an excellent Grape for wine; the bunches are of very handsome size and form, and shouldered; the berries are a deep purple, next the sun ; the skin is thin, juicy, sweet, rich and vinous, with a ' very little of the native or musky taste. This vine is very vigorous and hardy,and is a great and certain bearer.” Winnie—This Grape is much cultivated and esteemed in Albany, and is similar to the Isabella; it is said to have been found bya Mr. Winnie, of that place, from whom it derives its name, and is highly deserving culture as a native Grape of the first order. »& AS. a Sy ; we has been held 4 in high ectce in 20 ON THE CULTURE CHAPTER I. MANAGEMENT OF THE VINERY. ARTICLE I. Observations on its Utility. When the many good qualities which the foreign Grape possesses is taken into consideration, it may be said to excel almost any fruit as yet known in the for- cing department. Its long tested qualities as being replete (when well ripened) with a rich, highly-flavored: luscious juice in connection with its handsome appear- ance, particularly recommend it to the desert, in which nost all countries. een a. produce of nove Ne ae we managed : and - the Mildew can be evaded, i is Bway encouraging” | the highest degree, as, in most cases, the Bios B 7 compensates those who bes a succession of fruit for the t ipety: a very handsomeagppes ral Pig! la 1 bearing stat Nyy le when i in pros a OF THE GRAPE. 2Q1 ARTICLE II. Planting and Preparing the Vinery. The preparing and planting the Vinery should be carefully attended to, as the future produce will much depend on its being properly managed at first. The house may be of almost any construction; but that of a moderate size is the best. One of about thirty feet long and fourteen feet wide, in the clear, built in sucha manner as to admit of glass three feet in front, and the back, which should be of brick, of a height to allow an elevation of 45 degrees, when the roof is put on, which should be all glass. In the imside of the house a pit may be built of brick, six feet wide and four feet deep. The pit may be in the centre of the house which will admit a walk, each side, of four feet wide, and the same may be allowed intheend. A pit of this kind may be turned to good advantage in the win- ter for preserving Lettuce, Celery, and other vegetables which require the frost only to be kept away from them. About the beginning of March the pit may be cleaned out and a quantity of hot manure put in to make a moderate hot-bed, which, when the heat begins — to rise, may be earthed with good soil for the purpose of sowing on it Radish, Cabbage, Lettuce and such early Salads and plants as are wanted for family use. A part of the pit may also be used for forcing of Aspa- 22 ON THE CULTURE ragus, tart Rhubarb or Pie-plant and any kind of perennial herbs, as Mint, Taragon and the like; indeed, a bed of the kind may be made generally useful. The culture and heat requisite for such plants will also be congenial to starting the vines in a strong, vigorous manner. A few green-house plants may be accommo- dated in the Vinery, placed on the curb of the pit and back of the house; but I cannot by any means recom- mend it to be entirely appropriated as a_ green- house to winter plants, which in the spring must be much injured by being shaded with the vines, and _ the heat and moisture requisite for the Grape being quite contrary to the health ofthe green-house plants. On the other hand, the foul effluvia that will arise from the soil and perspiration of the green-house plants will settle and condense on the leaves of the vines and bring ona disease; the young bunches of Grapes will decay and drop off, and in fact, to be. candid, it is impossible for any person to do justice to anything so opposite in nature as green-house plants and the Grape- Vine, at an early season. When Grapes are intended to be grown in hot-houses, every other thing accommodated should be considered as temporary, and the Grape should, in every way, be accommodated, as near as possible, to its nature, or little good can be expected. ‘ | Location.—I have most generally found the Vinery to do best, by being located on a rising situation, pro- OF THE GRAPE. 23 tected at the North and North-West quarter by a plantation of trees or buildings. It should be so situ- ated as to face to the South or South-East quarter; but the latter I would recommend, as in that aspect it will receive the morning sun, so congenial to the Grape- Vine. , Preparing the border for planting.—The border for the Vinery may be prepared by digging out the soil, three feet deep, in front of the house, and from twelve to fifteen feet wide; or,as wide as the vines have to traverse under the roof, will perhaps, be a better criterion, as most plants, the vine particularly, are found to extend their roots in the earth as far in length or distance as they grow in height. If the bottom or sub-soil is wet, it will be better to dig out the soil a foot deeper than is requisite, and fill it up with old mortar rubbish, or anything that will drain off the water; as the Grape always thrives best on dry bottoms. When the border is thus prepared, it will require to be filled with Compost im the month of September. Preparing the Compost.—The Compost, which I have mostly found to answer the best purpose for the Vinery is a mellow /oam, well incorporated with one- third part of rotten manure, or, in order to have a border . pies in Ps superior manner, Bs we! sod of a rich, thrown into a wee with aie init rotten manure; and ifa portion of manure from a slaughter-house is wied, it will answer a co purpose. 24 ON THE CULTURE The compost may be thrown into the pit or border, where it may lay a month or two to get into a state of fermentation, when it should be turned and well mixed as a manure heap. This may be done two or three times in order to incorporate it well together. - I would also recommend about 50 Ibs. of sulphur to be mixed with the compost, the last time of turning, which will destroy many insects detrimental to the vine, and act as a stimulant to it. Planting the Vines.—In planting the Vinery every precaution should be taken to procure select kinds of Grapes of respectable Nursery-men, who can be relied onasto correctness. I have often seen Grape-houses furnished with ordinary sorts of Grapes, owing to injudicious selections, which have been re-planted at a great expense, and the loss of two or three year’s growth, which is considerable in such cases. The vines for planting should be at least two years old, and if raised from the eye the better. The best time for planting is early in the spring, about the latter end of March. The vines may be planted as directed under the head of Planting, page 6. One plant to each rafter may be planted outside the house, in front, in such a manner as it can be introduced into the house by a hole four inches in diameter, cut under the front cell directly under the rafter into which the vines are to be introduced into the inside of the house. OF THE GRAPE. yy ARTICLE IIt. First Year's Management. The only thing requisite in training the vines the first year, is to train up one shoot under the rafter from each vine, ina straight manner, ona wire placed directly under it, about twelve inches from the glass. The lat- eral shoots should be trained as before directed in page 7. Syringcing the Vines—The vines will require a gentle syringeing, with a patent syringe,* in the morning and fine evenings when the leaves can be dried after the operation; but it may always be omitted in moist weather, particularly late in the season. The syr- ingeing may also be wholly omitted late in autumn, in order to ripen and harden the wood of the vines; and the house in every part should be kept as dry as possi- ble. Particular care should be taken at all times .to keep the house clean and wholesome, that a healthy erowing internal air may always be present, which will greatly facilitate the growth of the vines. ee * A superior article of this kind can be purchased of most Nursery-men and Seedsmen, for from five to seven dollars. 26 ON THE CULTURE ARTICLE III. Second Year's Management. Pruning the Vines.—The vines should be pruned in the month of January or early in February, more or less according to the strength; but the Grape makes such luxuriant wood in this country, that I have known fine crops of grapes taken from the second year’s growth. However, it is a system that I cannot recommend, nor, indeed, with any fruit trees or vines that are to acquire a large growth. Ifthe habit is strong, it will be sure to be weakened intime. But I would not advise in any case for nature to be impeded by any process to hasten fruiting, which will, in all cases, shorten the future growth and luxuriance of trees, vines, &c: therefore shorten the shoots from four to six eyes, in proportion to the strength of the vine, from the part where it is intended to form itself, which is generally at the front end of the rafter. About the middle of March you may begin to syringe the vines, and let the thermometer range at 45 degrees, which may be raised to 50 degrees, and then to 55 degrees, fire heat. But this must be done with caution, as the vine, in all cases, should be broken strong, or the joints will be drawn or elongated, which much weakens them, as the same quality is generally in a short joint as a long one, therefore, the more it is elongated the weaker is its nature. ee A ee OF THE GRAPE. 27 The house may now be managed in every way as hereafter directed, with the exception that it should not be forced, and but very few bunches of Grapes be left onthe vine. The young wood may be left at almost every eye the first year, in order to furnish the house; the leading shoots may be allowed to have as much latitude as they require in growth. Q8 ON THE CULTURE CHAPTER II. ARTICLE I. Forcing the Grape. Pruning the Vines—The first consideration in Grape-forcing is in pruning the vines, which may be performed any time in the month of January or the beginning of February. The methods, as before stated, are various. The most simple and generally adopted in this country, with the greatest success, is that which is recommended in page 11. Forcing the House-—Supposing the pruning to be performed, and the house to be -began, the latter end of February, or the beginning of March,—begin by first merely warming the flues at night, and giving air on a fine day, to get the house and flues in good order, which will be in a few days, when the fire heat may be kept at night to 45 degrees ; and the sun heat, to 60 degrees, fora week or two, to get the sap in circulation, when the fire heat may be raised to 50 or 55*degrees ; and the sun heat to 65 or 70 degrces, with air, on a very fine day. During the process the vines must be well syringed on a fine morning, and slightly in the OF THE GRAPE. 29 evening after a sunny day, as they will, in that case, be in a dry condition and imbibe the moisture freely, which will greatly facilitate in breaking the buds strong. The best time of syringing in the morning varies with the season; early in March, the house should be warmed with the swn before the syringe is applied, or it will be much chilled by the operation. Asthe season advances the operation may be performed, by degrees, earlier in the morning, and in time it may be performed at sun- rise; but, in all cases, it must be performed in such a manner that the vines will soon dry. Wet, remaining on any plant long in the process of forcing, is in all cases, injurious by overcharging the surface of their leaves with water; for, in that condition, they are not capable of going through their proper functions of perspiration and respiration, owing to the pores of the leaves being stopped with water; consequently, sick- ness must ensue in proportion to the deprivation. When the vines begin to break at the eye, an inch or two long, they are to be finger pruned by breaking off the side shoots, leaving only one, which should be the centre, which contains the fruit in embryo. The side shoots are generally what are called by gardeners water- shoots, and require in all cases to be taken off at an early period, as they are injurious to the vine by drawing nutriment to an unfrurtful branch. ‘When the shoots begin to show fruit bunches the heat may be raised at night to 60 or 65 degrees, at all 3* ri os 20 ON THE CULTURE events it should never be under 60 degrees after this period. The sun heat may be allowed to run to 75 or 80 degrees. Finger Pruning.—The vines may now be finger pruned by taking away all useless shoots with the finger and thumb, and leaving the vines as regular as possible im all parts of the house. The young wood may now be stopped where fruit bunches show, one or two eyes from the bunch, by nipping it off a little above the joint with the finger and thumb. The weak shoots may be stopped one joint, and the strong, two from the bunch. But where young wood is wanted to fill up vacancies the shoots may be left two or three feet in length, to furnish such places. Regulating and ticing in the young wood.—T he next thing to be attended to is the tieing in, and regulating the young wood, which should be very carefully done by tiemg in the shoots neatly to the trellis, with bass- string, ina regular manner, so that every part of the vine has free access to sun and light. The lateral or side shoots may also be stopped one eye from the main shoot as before directed; and every part of the vine should be kept neat and Slee : Management of the House, in flower, —When the Vines begin to he yer or blossoms the Paes 1 m a measure, e, stop the ene functions in acting off Pee the young berries or fruit, by their being damped off; 1 ae a ek OF THE GRAPE. 31 care must be taken to keep up a moist, brisk, heat, as too much cold retards the growth of the young fruit, which will be perceived by the bunches turning up at the point, which is always a bad sign. The bottom of the house and flues may be kept moderately moist in order to givea moist heat. The temperature of the house may be kept at night, at fire heat, from 65 to 70 degrees: and sun heat in the day from 80 to 85 degrees with air, which may be continued until the ripening of the fruit. Swelling the fruit.—So soon as the fruit shows in the bunch as large as a very small pea, apply the syringe ina very gentle manner. It will be recollected that the fruit in this state is very delicate, apply the syringe, [say, if ina partial manner on a few bunches that are set over the flue at the warm end of the house. When the whole of the house is well set, syringe regularly in the morning a little after sunrise, in order that the vines may get dry before it is too strong; and in all cases give a little air in the least possible quantity at the back of the house. A brisk moist heat may be kept up, and the house always closed about an hour before — pupdows ; but ¢ care must : be tice ES it is snot too damp, j ne te which i is someti haps, the cause of “Mildew. pa. 6 ; Lal a pa hen the bunches most: ait that one bunch only is left on = is and two ona strong, Remember you ‘ Eo aie Sia at i 32 ON THE CULTURE want fruit next year and if you overload this, some deficiency will be in the nezt, if not the present year. Your fruit will not be so well ripened, nor good in quality, and besides, you will bring on a weakness by a heavy crop, and perhaps that pest of vegetation, the Mildew. Leave a part of your house thick and a part thin, in a fair medium, and if I am incorrect, attach the blametome. But I must call your attention to thinning the fruit in the bunch, which will require to be done in a neat, clean, and expeditious manner. The time is when the fruit is as large as a small sized pea. For the purpose procure a pair of scissors with long handles and narrow pointed blades. In the operation commence thinning the grapes at the point of the bunch, by taking out all the small sized berries and part of the large, in a regular manner; so that each will have equal room to swell in the bunch to its proper size, which must be judged according to the natural size of the Grape, when fully grown. In this operation care must be taken not to prick any of the fruit or any part of the bunch with the scissors, nor bruise them with the head, hands, or any other means, which will greatly injure the growth of the berries in this stage. The vines may now be regularly gone over by stop- ping the young shoots, tieing in, and the like, as before directed. | site . Stoneing the Fruit— When the fruit is grown nearly 4 ee. ' . to its size, it will begin to swell its seeds or stones, — OF THE GRAPE. 33 which will be perceived by the Grapes making but little growth. At this time the house should be kept in a moderate temperature ; at night about 65 de- erees, and in the day from 75 to 80 degrees. The vines may be moderately syringed, but not too much; as, at this period, it will be recollected that the fruit is not in a growing state, and consequently, cannot imbibe so much moisture. When this process is over, which may be ascertained by cutting the berries and finding the seed hard, the syringe may be more generally applied. The temperature may be now a little raised in order to swell the fruit more freely; and every precaution must be taken to keepa clean and wholesome air, by cleansing the house, &c. . Ripening the Fruit.—When the fruit begins to color, the syringe may be suspended, and the house be kept dry. The temperature may be kept from 70 to 80 decrees, fire heat, at night, if the fruit is in haste to be ripened, although 70 degrees will answer a better pur- pose if not in haste. Plenty of air should be given in a fine day in order to color and give flavor to the fruit ; in this manner the house may be managed. until the fruit is all ripe and cut fromthe vine. The sashes should then be taken off and the house fully exposed to the sun and air, in order to ripen the wood previous to the ensuing winter, when the glasses may again be put on the house. Genera! Remarks on Grape Forcing.—The experi- enced forcer will perceive that the heat herein recom- = 34 ON THE CULTURE N mended is somewhat higher than is generally recom- mended by practical forcers, who have written on the Grape in England; my object of which is to bring the fruit to maturity early in the season to evade the Mildew which in most cases is destructive to Grape late in the summer. My secondary object is, considering this climate of a more clear atmosphere, and more sum in the early part of the spring, admitting of more external air to the house, which should be molified by internal heat from fire, in which case I have generally found the impure vapor ascending from internal heat is much rectified by the admission of the external air. ARTICLE II. General Remarks on the Vineyard. After what has been said on the general culture and management of the Grape, it will be proper to make some remarks on the Vineyard and the more general introduction of the Grape-Vine, relative to its becoming one of the chief articles in domestic comforts, as using the fruit when ripe, and preserved, in cookery, and in eating from the bunch as a desert. rm In my remarks on the Grape, I shall be very candid relative to the probability of its improvement in quality and producing abundant crops; and I hope the sugges- OF THE GRAPE. 3a tions may be at a future period realized. But as all ex- periments of the kind must at present be considered as a theory unsubstantiated by practice, it will be well to remind the reader that to put them into operation, he should not go too expensively to work at a hazard. From many facts and actual observation it has been abundantly proved that the wild apple, pear, gooseberry, currant, and the like, have been the primitive of all the known superior varietics from their progeny at the present day. From such practical experiments there can be no reason to doubt that the native Grape of this country will not, with proper management, be as likely to be improved in as great a degree of superiority to the wild Grape of the country, as the Newtown pippin is to the crab-apple; or the Sickle pear of Pennsylvania is to the wild pear of the wood. But at the same time it cannot be expected that such changes are to be made in the space of two or three years, but must be a work of time and gradual improvement on the varieties experi- mented upon. — | That indefatigable Pomologist, Van Mons of Bel- gium, proved that the Apple, Pear, and most primitive fruit improved from seed in a ratio from five to twenty- five to the hundred, in the course of eight or ten generations. The system that he adopted was the raising of seedlings from the seed of the crab crossed by choice varieties, which was allowed to fruit ; the most 36 ON THE CULTURE likely looking fruit was preserved for seed to raise another generation, with which when in fruit, the same method was continued through seven or erght genera- tions. ‘The result of his experiments was that many fine varieties of fruit were raised from the last generation which not only enriched Flanders, England, and every part of Europe congenial to them, but have also found their way into this country through the medium of Horticultural Societies and private mdividuals, to enrich the Fruit department ; and from such analogies why should we not expect, if the same experiments were here tried on the Grape, that the result would be similar. Supposing the desired object to be obtained by the above experiments of naturalizing the Grape and improving the quality in such a manner that no doubts are enter- tained of its thriving and bearmg well in any part of the United States. The next question is to show whether the produce can be grown to an extent to give a good profit to the grower and sell the produce either in fruit, wine, vinegar or virgous, at a price to meet the foreign market, which can only be solved at a time when every improvement is made in culture and manufacture of wine. If the desired purpose be obtained of producing Grapes, from seed or by other means, of good qualities, that will flourish and fruit well in the summer, and the wood to be of a nature to withstand the winter without taking from the trellis or poles, then there will be no doubt that this country will become equally celebrated OF THE GRAPE. 37 as any other inthe Vineyard; and until that object is obtained little good can be expected in the general culture of the Grape. For it is not the vine dresser, let him be even the most skilful from any country, that can alter the climate, soil, or location in a manner suitable to Grapes that are, in their nature, tender and liable to be injuriously affected by the changes of the climate. But certain it is, if the Grape can be brought to the desired qualities, favorable locations will be found and like other produce from the soil, every improve- ment made in its culture to answer the desired end of producing abundant crops, which will be converted into Wine, vinegar, virgous, and every use that the Grape is applied to in other countries. In the culture of Grapes in Vineyards, little can be said in this concise Manual only that the pruning, as before directed, will perhaps be the best adapted to this climate. The soil and location adapted to the Grape, may be found in many different parts; and it is little to be doubted that different varieties will thrive best on different situations, but, in all cases, dry bottoms are to be recommended, and the soil, whatever may be its natural quality, will require to be often enriched with strong manure, as that from Slaughter-houses, night-soil and the like. But for manuring the Vineyard, I recommend that a compost be made of one-third loam, one-sixth old mortar rubbish, and the remainder of manure, as before recommended. Let this compost be 4 38 ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. well mixed together and laid on the Vineyard early in the spring, before the frost is out of the ground. The location. best adapted, will, most probably be found to be on a South aspect, well protected on the North and cold quarter. On the base or alluvials of hills or mountains, I think, the larger sorts of Grapes will be found to answer best, and the high locations will very likely suit the smaller varieties. The mode of culture best to be adopted will undoubtedly be found to be similar to that practised in those countries, where the Vineyard has long been a subject of com- merce, and the making and management of the wine and fruit will require nearly the same process. The following list of Grapes are selected as the best varieties adapted to the Vinery, and ripen in succession as they are numbered in the list: 1. Early Oval, | 5. Black Hamburg, 2. White Sweetwater, | 6. Black Constantia, | 3. White Frontinac, 7. White Hamburg, 4. Black Frontinac, 8. St. Peters. ( 39 ) A DISSERTATION ON THE ! GROWTH AND MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES. Ste There are but few things of a more iteresting na- ture when duly considered, than the utility and beautiful economy of nature in endowing mankind with the faculty and means of improving the different kinds of fruit palateable to his taste and wholesome to his con- stitution. By a little observation, we find that a kind of primitive ordination of nature has stamped the character of various fruits adapted to different climates, in a manner suitable to the constitution of mankind in any given country . and, furthermore, has given in his possession the means of improving any primitive fruit into almost endless varieties, which, although they all partake of the same nature as their parent, still their qualities are different as regards color, size, flavor and time of dura - tion or eating, which in many fruits. if well manage4- 40 A DISSERTATION may be said to be almost perpetual. Upon the least reflection on any kind of fruit, our most ardent desires are gratified relative not only to the utility, but of vari- ous qualities, suitable to the many purposes to which it is applied. For instance, the Apple, in its primitive state as a Crab, is rejected as being unpalateable and unwholesome; therefore it is considered as useless, when on the least reflection it is evident that it is the very essence of its kind: for the Crab, although rejected at table, is a perpetual parent that has given birth to all and the very best varieties of Apples in existence, that are the most useful in domestic concerns. Let the aged of the present day call to mind the fruitfulness and excellence of the best fruits of his youthful days and he will find a falling off in their qualities, and the very best fruits of the orchard of his youth are canker- ing and dwindling to nothing, while new varieties are springing up and taking their place in the orchard and garden, of fine qualities which render them to the rising generation of mankind the choice fruits of their season. From many experiments that have been made on the improvement of fruit, it may almost be certain that wherever the primitive of any kind is found indigenous to any country it may be improved to a high state of perfection by culture; therefore it is as reasonable to believe that the time will arrive that the banks of the Hudson will be clothed with Vineyards of fine Grapes ON FRUIT TREES. 41 produced from the native, as that of the Rhine or any part of Europe. Independent of the utility of fruit in our domestic affairs, the orchard and fruit garden may be considered as a fine feature in landscape scenery ; for whena large track of land is destitute of the orchard there is not that appearance of mellow fertility that is always con- veyed to the observer, when fine crops of fruit are to be seen, which indicate the real comforts of life. Nutriments of Trees and Piants. Trees, like all other bodies which are organized, Tequire a proper nutriment for the germination of seed and the further developement of vegetable economy. The most superficial observer is aware that trees derive their principal food from the sozd and atmosphere, although not in equal proportions. They also require different components, according to the nature of the soil in which they naturally grow: thus the Cherry and Peach are found to thrive best on a light, dry soil, while the Pear and Plum require a deep loamy soil. The same affinity is observable in different kinds of trees and vegetables. The principal food of treesis found to be either vegetable or animal substance in a decomposed state, in which it enters them by aqueous solution. This 4* 42 A DISSERTATION food is principally absorbed by the roots of trees; it is also inhaled by the leaves, its particles being often raised to a considerable height by the winds; therefore it is plain, that plants either thrive or sicken according to the portion of such nutriment contained in the soil in which they grow. Earths, as Clay, Lime, Flint and Magnesia, are also absorbed by trees in solution ; each particular variety will be found to contain those earths in different proportions according to the nature of the soil in which they grow; hence by calcination of eorn-stalks, flint is found in the ashes, and plants growing in a chalky soil, are found to contain portions of lime ; and by analization each variety will be found to contain a portion of solid substance which it most readily imbibes by aqueous solution. Some authors are of an opinion that water is the sole food of trees and plants, founding their authority on the well known fact that many kinds, particularly bulbs, vecetate and produce blossoms in that fluid. The reverse is, how- ever, apparent, as cn calcination those plants are found to contain component parts. The quantity of water necessary for different species is also very apparent, as some plants are found to thrive on the hardest rocks and must obtain their moisture principally by their leaves from the atmosphere, whilst others are known to live wholly in water, and consequently must be of a different nature in their solids. Atmospheric air, in all cases, is necessary to fruit trees, particularly when ina growing state, ina confined ON FRUIT TREES, 43 situation, as in hot-houses, frames, and the like. When unwholesome air is present, trees suffer in proportion to the quantity of improper gas: the most delicate part as the flower, is first affected and most generally per- ishes; the next is the tender leaves and branches, and so in proportion. But in some cases, as in tender annuals, foul internal air destroys the whole plant in its infant state. ‘To all plants in a growing state exter- nal air should always be admitted, if only in the least possible proportion, in order to rectify the internal air, as in hot-houses, or other confined places, which is always unwholesome to fruit or plants, in a greater or less degree, in proportion to the external air that is admitted. Stimulants. It is necessary that the cultivator of fruit should be familiarly acquainted with the stimulants requisite to carry onthe vegetable economy, of which heat and light are the principal. A proper quantity of heat and cold is requisite to develope the functions of seeds, and cause the currents of sap to circulate in a proper manner. Many plants, as Mosses and Alpine plants, on high latitudes, vegetate at a very small degree above freezing point, thirty-two degrees. The Gooseberry grasses and most native herbaceous plants, vegetate in a minimum 44 A DISSERTATION heat of perhaps forty degrees. Apples, Pears, and the like, from forty to forty-five degrees; and the Grape, especially the foreign, requires from fifty to fifty-five degrees. The same affinity is also observable in seeds which are found to vegetate and thrive best in heat that is in accordance with their natures. Swn-heat should have a free access to all kinds of fruit, particularly when in a ripening state, as most fruits that ripen in the shade do not possess their proper quality and flavor, although it is certain that fruit often swell to a larger size in the shade; but they are destitute of the other requisites, which can be proved by experience. Observations on the Roots of Trees. The roots of trees, being intended by nature as chan- nels by which the principal food is absorbed and convey- ed to the different parts, and finally forms a part of the~ tree, should be very familiar to the cultivator. By due observation it will be seen that the adaptation of trees to their proper soil is of the greatest importance, as trees placed in a soil uncongenial to them, seldom thrive well, owing to improper food being absorbed by their roots: and in many cases, roots have been known to travel out of their proper position in quest of a more proper nutriment. The circulation of the sap in roots is different in different trees as may be exemplified by ON FRUIT TREES. 45 plants and shrubs beginning to put forth their leaves at various periods, in the same location. This fact may be proved by any intelligent observer who will notice the commencement of vegetation in native plants and shrubs, in any given part of the country, under the same circumstances and in the same location. These trees are all fastened in the earth by the root, and all receive the same temperature, and the natural changes of moisture, in the place where they grow: but their time of vegetation or circulation of sap, is in accordance to their peculiar nature, which varies a month or more. As soon as the soil is sufficiently warm to answer their economy of circulation, the process proceeds. Observations on the Bud. The bud of trees is very. properly termed by the Botanist, the Aybernacula or winter quarters. It is formed in the summer, and properly fed and nourished by the descending sap. Buds may be considered under three definitions: first, buds which contain the rudiments and organization of fruits only, as the Cherzy, Plum and Pear; second, buds which contain the blossom and wood-buds under the same covering, as the Grape and most trailing vines; and thirdly, those which contain all the rudiments of a young plant in embryo, as the Cherry, Plum, and Pear, which are called wood-buds. 46 A DISSERTATION Nature has carefully protected those precious appen- dages of trees, by covering them with a hard, scaly substance outwardly, and a woolly substance inwardly to protect the more tender parts. It will be found by a due observance of buds, that those which produce the fruit are the most delicate, and of course the most liable to injury by drought, cold and the many causes inimical to them; hence the Peach, and many other fruit trees require protection during the winter in the Northern States, particularly those that have been grown under glass, the buds of which are always more delicate than when the tree is wholly exposed. The blossom-bud being injured in any way, either by cold or other casualty detrimental to it, is generally destroyed; but the wood-bud on the same tree is not, although exposed to the same injuries; and in many cases, as the Grape- Vine, the blossom-bud is blinded or destroyed by many causes detrimental to it, although the vine will perhaps break and grow in a very healthy manner. . Observations on the Leaf. The leaves of trees being the principal organs of respiration, also contribute to their growth by their power of absorption; they are of the greatest impor- ON FRUIT TREES. 47 tance in this operation. The surrounding air, whether internal or external, being absorbed by their vec requires to be of a pure and wholesome nature, in order to keep them in a healthy, vigorous state. We are informed by Botanists that the leaves of trees are synonymous with the lungs of animals, therefore whatever disease is imbibed by them, enters into their system. When too much heat and moisture are applied in Grape houses or frames where plants are growing, it is imbibed by the leaf, and the consequence is, that the plant is elongated without its proper qualities, the leaves assume a feeble appearance and are often totally destroyed, when the sun and air act on them sufficiently to nourish their more healthy parts. Leaves, when decaying, are most liable to breed many insects, as the Red Spider, Trip, and all other insects which are increased by decomposition, therefore, decaying and dead leaves should in all cases be taken from plants i in astate of vegetation. In conclusion to what has ae said on Fadl reek and the Grape-Vine, it appears evident that the seed of all kinds.of fruit in the common idea, is the primitive, and is petpettal, and that every variety of improved quality — must originate. it, either by chance or luxuriant ae sulture and it is at thg:same time clear that-by cross- ing the primitive or native fruit of any country, of the same ‘natural order, that new varieties, of improved. ae, * * ~ te a “a 48 A DISSERTATION ON FRUIT TREES. qualities, are produced congenial to the country which has given birth to such varieties. From the very best of experiments and authority, it has been proved that in raising trees either from seed, cuttings, grafting or any other mode of propagation, that those kinds that have been propagated in a hardy and natural manner are the best qualified to withstand the natural changes of the climate; and that although by nursing many tender fruits, they are brought to great perfection with attentive culture, it cannot be recommended to answer in a gen- eral way. Any intelligent observer will discover that trees of all kinds require to be so situated that the sun and air have as much as possible, free access to every part of their leaves, fruit, and indeed all parts of the tree, and that any violence; either. by severe pruning, disease, “blights, ‘unwholesome food or air that is present, acts fon: their, system: materially either directly or indirectly ; ae rand as practical ObSeryation i is worth volumes of theory Fe 1s Jeay aye: the perusal of this little manual to the reader Bia funder the» een J the Byticles it contains are a ORR geuee natural causes: soft the aes ae ge eet : Bee Oe eee i * > _ Ea : 0 ep ro ss ae rt a . i aa * ~ tp Tae 2 pe ee ake on 5 "Gaede é ‘ Mer & ets 9 Re eae Ca. owe tb. as es OO ae he Sree o> gt? gate & Eas at pirate 5 . 7 2 ue ; - ee oe . 2S . ¢ “ ; “iy ’ Dic tee ae m Ph ae $ ; ss ee one it eS =! = - .. aoe +f ge oie 2 Oh Raa CULTIVATION AMERICAN GRAPE VINES, AND MAKING OF WINE. SECOND EDITION. ~— BY ALDEN SPOONER. —e—eeeeoereeeee—_e e—ee Es Ec Oa BROOKLYN: E. B. SPOONER, ‘‘ STAR OFFICE,” 102 & 104 ORANGE-STREET. NEW-YORK, A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOKSTORE, 140. FULTON-ST. . 1858. 25/07 . RARARPRARARADRARRARAARAL AR AR ALTRI, Southern District of New York, ss. BE If REMEMBERED, that on the twenty-third day of June, Anno Domini 1846, ADEN Spooner, of the said District, hath deposited in this office, the title of a book, the title of which is in the words following, to wit : “The Cultivation of American Grape Vines, and making of Wine, by ALDEN Spooner :” the right whereof he claims as Author and Proprictor, in con- formity with an act of Congress, entitled ‘‘ An Act to amend the several Acts respecting copy-rights.”’ J. W. METCALF, Clerk of the Southern District of New York. BOLO LOLOL LVL LDL AVL L PLL IOV L OL OLOLOL OLN II CI VIIA INI PIII NII NI WHMIS es a. ee | Page MM RINTNE HOME Ss ieee edly cian Swe eae es Whe oo a Oe Ry ae See Sieteder distory of the Vine: i...) 02) 200.263) ene Bio tie 9 7 — of Foreigg Vines in America, .... 2.04 ue.we 9 oF American, Vines. 0.5. . 5.4.2) dee ee 10 Histery ef the Isabella Vine. ....... 00.0 see ee eee epee 13 Sea ~Chimate— Hx posure yo. ees cee aul ee oe ue eae 17 Propagation of Grape Vines. AE een CI ae I Ah 19 Bey ECOG 5k cacao aes a ues SS ene 19 —————— By Buds of short cuttings................... 20 -———_—_— By Cuttings............ cee eee eee See 21 et EY LUBVOTS. so ee oo e ie wie wwe ae are isin d cleans 23 Sarre ert YS CRP ALUITED 3! 55.3) erste ocle a'o teresa kere 23 NIGH At POU 76 aa badass Oe he ahi satel 28 Peeraraies MPL SANUS 2 os a. at Be. ween vw oleae aioe ee 29 Planting and transplanting........ piaieslsio Path 5/'s) «Siaire, Aoremeer tee 38 SmaI ARE Eo wo « aiid win) wiaksl vm ec SA a 0. Gad he eee 39 Po castetapes in Hot Houses. ...... 2:6 ccatax be ovine eoeene £0 Seareeete ret FOLDS, OC: aces oc cccacss Ge hos dc eae 43 PREM UNG. creas 5 Viana. ov aoe abe 410 aN on Rial ee 45 - American Grapesand Vineyards..... ......ccc cece evace 48 Maria ter Of FHS: Vine. 33... s peaiy jects ae ran hes eco Visit to an American Vineyard.............. nado epee Ni 57 Conversation on Grapes ............88. Shs (Alara oe eats A arash’ 59 IR OE NET G io a ens. t 5 knee ead ie oe arene ee RA of immature Grapes.......... dip Wards AA: Receipt for Making Currant Wine........, sc AS Brat aad aan 83 Grapes cultivated near New York. .%.....00. 26.0 Oee ewe’ . 86 Damenic uses Of the Vine... 2.05% ss Slee oka e ow eaeoee 87 MnreusiaiOe Ol LOTUS, . 5 'h. cscs cee congas ataees < e eere 95 vax x hit ‘ > Orns : Ung iy wt s EN TROD We TION. ss! Ir has long been a matter of surprize that the cultiva- tion of Grapes and making of Wine, has not engaged more of the attention and labors of our enterprizing citi- zens. With avast expanse of country, embracing every variety of soil and climate, and the Grape growing spon- taneously in the woods, from Canada on the north, to the Gulf of Mexico on the south, there could never have been a doubt of its successful cultivation by any one who would give it the requisite skill and attention. The southern States, and Florida in particular, promise the ‘greatest success in producing the European kinds of Grapes; but the northern States, and even Canada exhibit the assurance that native Grapes may be success- fully ripened in the open air. The great success of two varieties of the American Grapes—the Isabella and the Catawba—and the rapid spreading of their cultivation, has induced me to give to the public the benefit of what experience I may have had in their culture. In the year 1838, at the request of Jesse Bust, Esq., then the editor of the paper entitled ‘ The Cultivator,” and published at Albany, 1 wrote a brief sketch of the Isabella Grape, which had obtained great favor on Long-Island, and which I had taken much A2 vi INTRODUCTION, pains to scatter abroad, by distributing cuttings to all who would accept of them. I also included in my sketch all T had experienced in wine-making. The Cultivator of May, 1838, contains my remarks, which have been re- published in other papers, and I multiplied copies in my own paper (the Long-Island Star) for gratuitous distribu- tion. The inquiry for information on this subject, still continues. Jam sensible there are some persons of more experience in raising and trimming the vines, and in ma- king wine, and I hope they may hereafter correct my errors, if such shall be discovered. For such facts as did not come under my own observation, [ am indebted to the very excellent periodicals of the present day; and it was my object to embrace in a small compass such inter- esting facts relative to grape culture and wine-making, as that every man owning a lot of ground of any dimensions, mag raise his own grapes and make his own wine. el Lt Ly A ETON OF AMERICAN GRAPE VINES. BRIEF HISTORY OF THE VINE. I sHaLu not attempt to give a botanical descrip- tion of the Grape Vine. It is called the Vitis Vin- ifera of Europe, and some have supposed our American Vines to have had the same origin.— There are some forty species, and an immense number of varieties. The practice in foreign vine- yards of having different species and varieties in contiguity, would naturally cause an intermingling of numerous kinds with slight shades of difference. There is no period in the history of man, in which the Vine is not mentioned in language of grateful testimony that it is a blessing of the high- est value. Its fruitfulness and its qualities were well known in the days of Noah, and in all. subse. quent periods of time. Scripture in numerous instances has language peculiarly drawn from the culture of grapes and the wine—the pruning of the Vine—the ¢reading of the grapes, which was the ancient method, and the wine press, are all in- corporated with sacred writ. It is stated that a Helvetian named Helicon first made known the properties of the vine at Rome, 8 HISTORY OF THE VINE. and that the interchanges of commerce soon spread it abroad. Plutarch and Livy give it a Tuscan origin. A late writer, Thiebaut de Berneaud tells us that from the first appearance of the Vine in France the cultivation spread in every disposable corner, wherever a fitting soil and exposure could be found. This excited the jealousy of Rome, who, under pretence of preventing the recurrence of famine, decreed that the Vineyards should be turned into wheat fields, and caused a general grub- bing up of the Vine throughout the territories of Gaul. This took place A. D. 92. It was so rig- orously executed, that the inhabitants were obliged to resort to beer and other fermented drinks, such as had been in use before the introduction of the Grape. ‘The ferocious Domitian was detested for this violation of the natural rights of the people whom he should have protected, but the edict nevertheless remained in force for two centuries— when Probus, in A. D. 282, restored the cultivation. The restoration occasioned a long festival of rejoic- ings, and the people with great alacrity renewed the Vine culture, and spread it to all the neighbor- ing nations. In 1556 tne Vines were again prohibited through: out France, on the ground of their monopoly of the earth, and the labor, from more important tillage. After eleven years the law was revoked, and the Vine once more allowed free growth.— ‘About the beginning of the. eighteenth century another attempt was made at restriction; and it was not until the revolution of 1789 that every owner of the soil was allowed to improve it in his own way; since which time the prosperity of the Vine cultivation in France has added vastly to the happiness of the people and the wealth of the nation. FOREIGN VINES. g OF FOREIGN VINES IN AMERICA. Many of the attempts to raise Grapes from foreign Vines in the open air, have resulted in loss and disappointment. The late Mr. Parmentier, of Brooklyn, Long Island, devoted much labor and expense on foreign Vines to very little purpose. Mr. Loubat also, who had seen much of Grape cultivation in France, planted a vineyard of forty acres at New Utrecht, L.I, which had 159,000 Vines of various sizes, and forsome years flattered himself with hopes, which resulted in disappoint- ment. In some few. instances in Brookiyn and New York, where the Vines were protected by surrounding buildings, the Chasselas Grape and other foreign varieties yielded well, thereby only demonsirating that such fruit can be obtained if cultivators will be at the trouble oferecting proper houses for the purpose. In the year 1827, [ planted fifty foreign Vines, some of which were from France and obtained from Mr. Parmentier and Mr. Loubat—cothers were from Germany, and obtained from Mr. Knudsen. In fuur years I was able to exhibit five kinds of fine Grapes at the horticultural exhibitionof New York, at Niblo’s garden; but the Vines produced few good bunches, and very soon none at all. The “Vines and shoots continued to grow for several years, but the fruit was mouldy and black before the period of ripening, and thus were worthless. . Many gardeners and amateur cultivators, made great and judicious attempts to raise foreign Grapes in the open air, but they all gave up the fruitless labor. Very fine foreign Grapes, especially the black Hamburgh, have been raised in hot houses in New- York, Boston and other places. The late Judge 10 AMERICAN VINES. Buel recommended a cheap green-house, which he described in the Cultivator, for raising foreign Grapes without artificial heat. It is well worthy of trial. 6) The government of the United States, in order to encourage Grape cultivation in this country, have made several grants of lands in different parts of the southern and western States, to intelligent foreigners well acquainted with the business, who: have brought over their foreign vines, and given them great attention. All these have failed, until they adopted the native Vines—a fact worthy of much reflection and investigation. We may pre- sume, therefore, that foreign Vines must be raised in grape-houses, or by patient changes of cultiva- tion be gradually naturalized to our climate. ° OF AMERICAN VINES. In the first discovery and settlement of America Grape Vines were seen in profusion in the woods, and their value and peculiar properties could not fail to become known. There can be no doubt that Vines have been long cultivated and much wine made in America. In the Spanish colony of Coahuila, in Mexico, ot the Rio Del Nort, about the 29th degree of North latitude, fine Grapes were raised and much wine made at an early period of the colony; but the culture was for some cause forbidden by the crown, probably from fear of competition with the vineyards of Spain. It was officially stated by. the Deputy from Coahuila to the Cortes of 1812, that this North American province produces con- siderable quantities of good wine—a number. of AMERICAN VINES. wii 1] districts and vineyards giving wines as delicious as those of Castile in Spain. He adds that the -Taising of wine is one of the most productive branches of their agriculture, and so great that they supply the neighboring colonies, and even send some of the finest to Mexico. ‘IT learn froma communication of Dr. James Mease, of Philadelphia, that before the American Revolution a quarter cask of wine made by Doctor Howard, of New Brunswick, N. J., was sent to the Society for the encouragement of arts, manu- factures, &c.,in London, and the society presented him thirty guineas as a reward. Mr. ‘Tasker, of Maryland, and Mr. Antil, of Shrewsbury, Mon- mouth County, N. J., are named as among: the early cultivators of the Grape. Mr, Antil had a vineyard of several acres, and wrote a paper on the subject which appears in the first volume of the American Philosophical Society. He cultiva- ted foreign Vines only. | In 1769 the French settlers in Illinois made one hundred and ten hogsheads of strong wine from native Grapes. In 1793, Peter Legaux. a French gentleman, obtained of the legislature of Pennsylvania the incorporation of a company for cultivating the Vine. ‘(hey purchased a farm at Spring-mill, ontgomery County, thirteen miles from Phila- deiphia, on the Schuylkill. For one year only prospects were favorable; but divisions and dis- sentions arose and the stockholders sold out in disgust, and the vineyard went to ruin. In the early settlement of the now city of New York, a gentleman had a very fine garden at Hoboken and raised many Grapes. In the woods of that place are now to be seen very large Vines running wild into the tops of the tallest trees. 12 AMERICAN VINES. ¢ It is recorded that in the early settlement of Long-Island a vineyard was cultivated near South- ampton, by Mr. Fournier. We understand very. good wild Grapes are now in great plenty in the woods and swamps near that place. At Harmony, near Pittsburgh, a vineyard of - ten acres was planted and cultivated by Frederick Rapp and his associates from Germany. They afterwards removed to another Harmony, in In- diana, on the east bank of the Wabash, where they continve the cultivation of wine and silk to the present time. A Swiss colony settled about fifty years ago in Jessamin County, Kentucky, and raised a fund of ten theu-and dollars for the express purpose of a vineyard. ‘They planted foreign Vines and failed, In L801 they removed to a spot which they called Vevay, in Switzerland County, Indiana, on the Ohio river, 45 miles below Cincinnati. Here they planted native or naturalized Vines and succeeded. A recent article in a newspaper says—‘ They turned attention to our native Vine, first to the’ Cape Grape, and subsequently to the Isabella and Catawba. After forty years of experience they consider our climate and soil inferior to those of Switzerland for producing saccharine matter, and consequently wine. They say that, in this ey try, twelve pounds of Grapes are required to ma a gallon of wine, and, in the old country, ten pounds. At one time they had forty acres under cultivation; now only five. They say they can cultivate other products to greater profits.” The government of the United States, desirous of encouraging the cultivation of the Vine, and making of wine, made exiensive grants of the public lands for this patriotic service, to some of ISABELLA GRAPE VINE. Td the distinguished exiles .f France, who chose Greene County, in the then territory of Alabama for that purpose, as being the most promising climate for the Vine They planted a small colony of cultivators, who brought out numerous varieties of their favorite Vines; but after great labor and perseverance they were compelled to relinquish it in despair. It was discovered about the time of their quitting, that the Vines of Vevay, Indiana, which they obtained from the Agent of that asso- ciation at New Orleans, would succeed well. The small remains of the colony were finally successful in cultivating from native Vines. _ At Georgetown, in the District of Columbia, Mr. Adlum cultivated a vineyard, and made much wine, of which he, in a patriotic manner, gave specimens to all the members of Congress. He also published a small book on the subject of wine, which I made my guide in the matter of wine- making. His favorite Grape was the Catawba, and his vineyard flourished until his death. HISTORY OF THE ISABELLA GRAPE VINE. This justly celebrated Vine has obtained a eneral cultivation along the coast of the United States, and in Canada. The fruit, when well ripened, is very fine asa table Grape, and it is also well known to make an excellent wine, capable of being preserved for years. Many persons have expressed an interest to know its origin, and I will proceed to state all the facts I have been able to obtain. The Isabella Vine first obtained its notoriety in the garden of George Gibbs, Esq., at Brooklyn, B 14 ISABELLA GRAPE VINE. Long-Island, about the year 1816. His lady ob- tained it from North Carolina, and after its value became known, she gave cuttings liberally to her neighbors. A few gentlemen of Brooklyn, in compliment to her, gave it her name, Isabella, and exerted themselves to multiply cuttings, and make its qualities known. By the aid of various publi- cations, in the Long-Island Star and other papers, it soon became the cherished ornament and pride of every garden and door-yard. No dwelling is so humble as not to nourish its vine—no yard too small to admit its delicious shade and fruit. The following letter, which gives the only information I possess relative to the origin of the Isabella Vine, was communicated by the gentle- man to whom it was addressed, David Kimberly, Esq., of Brooklyn, and published in the Long- Island Star of July 2, 1838— Wuoerseroy, N. C., June 9, 1838. Dear Sir :—Please accept my thanks for the paper containing an essay upon the culture of the Isabella Grape. You request a repetition of the history of that Vine, as given me by Bernard Laspeyre, Esq., a native of France, very intelligent, and who resided for many years in the vicinity of this place, and who may be called the father of the Grape culture in this part of North? Carolina. Mr. Laspeyre stated that many years past, upon a visit to Charleston, 8. C., he became acquainted with a countryman of his (name I do not recollect) who had a few years previously travelled through France and the most of Spain. The culture of the Grape was an interesting topic to both, and his friend invited him to visit his garden, where he had in full bearing a Vine which he brought with him from Spain (I think from Andalusia) and with which he was more pleased than any which had come under his observation. Mr. L. was ISABELLA GRAPZ VINE. 15 also much taken with the Vine, and made arrangements to procure as many of the cuttings as his friend could spare, who statedto him that he had endeavored to spread the Vine as widely as possible in South Carolina by giving cuitings to gentlemen from different parts of the state, whenever he met with one likely to take care of them. The following season, Mr. Laspeyre received a number of cuttings, which he divided with his acquain- tances, and among others Gen. Benjamin Smith, from whom (I think) Mrs. Gibbs procured the Vine which she carried to Long-Island. Mr. Laspeyre planted the portion reserved on his farm, about 18 miles from this place, and in a very few years had a handsome vineyard, which was the “ wonder and talk” of the whole neighborhood. The stage road frem this to Fayetteville passes within a short distance of his residence. It so happened that the stage was broken in his immediate vicinity, and a Spanish gentleman, who was a passenger, inquired if no person cultivated Grapes in a country which seemed so well adapted to it. He was told of Mr. Laspeyre’s vineyard, and, having plenty of time, he procured a guide and called upon Mr. L., who carried him to see his Grapes. Upon entering the enclosure, his first exclama- tion was, “ Ha, you have got my countryman here, I know him well, and it iseone of the finest Grapes in Spain.” The above is the history of the Isabella, as related to e by Mr. Laspeyre; if he mentioned the name by which the Grape is known in Spain, I have forgotten it. Mr. L. was amused at the idea of its being an American Grape. It is generally known here as the Laspeyre Grape, and also as the Isabella. The friends of that excellent Lady, Mrs. Gibbs, give the latter name the preference, and it will, no doubt, be continued. Puihaste it thus appears that the Isabella Grape had its 16 ISABELLA GRAPE VINE. origin in Spain, and has been adapted and natural- ized to the climate of most of the United States. I hear of its cultivation as far North as Canada, but with what success I cannot learn. I should much doubt whether it would ripen well in Canada. In the vicinity of New York it is sufficiently ripe for the table about the middle of September, and is sometimes on the Vines long after the frost, and continues toimprove ; but if they are unripe on the approach of frost they become worthless. If any bunches remain very late by reason of any peculiar protection, they become exceedingly sweet and pleasant. This particular kind of Grape is here regarded as above all price, and the descendants of Mrs. Gibbs may rejoice that her name and fame are connected with this great and delightful bless- ing. The Isabella Vine is particularly adapted to - cities, as it may be placed in a corner of any small yard, and its Vine carried to any height or to any roof or space which may be desired. It shelters the domestics at their labor, and soap-suds is an excellent manure for its roots.. Its qualities are known and respected even among the Vines of Europe. Immense guantities are brought to New York market, and yet the demand is not satisfied. Vineyards are rapidly multiplying throughout the country—twenty-seven acres being thus improved in one location at Croton Point. Enough is already known of its wine to pronounce it cheering and delightful ; and yet not a gallon has been offered for sale, where thousands of barrels might have been produced. But the time is near at hand when “ every man may sit under his own Vine”—and he may also drink his own wine, which ‘cheers, but not inebriates !” SOIL, &C. 17 SOIL—CLIMATE—EX POSURE. American Vines can be made to grow and flourish in every situation, and in every part of our wide spread country ; but that the soil and climate and exposure is very important to obtain the best Grapes, is undeniable. The soil should be a light sandy or gravelly loam, with coarse gravelly sub- soil. Clay soils are unfavorable, and vineyards should never be planted in such soils; but where a garden is located on clay soil, ifa Vineis wanted it may be raised a little from the natural soil and a sandy-made soil enclosed in a brick or stone en- closure to favor the Vine. Stony, hilly and rocky grounds, and sandy plains, like those on the mid- dle and eastern parts of s.ong [sland, may be con sidered friendly to the Vine. A writer says—‘ I have seen hundreds of acres of Vines growing in pebbles from the size of a bean and nutmeg to that of an egg, without the least vestige of earth. _Climate.—Our country possesses all the Vine climates of France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, and a larger district than all those combined. The sea board and Islands are considered pecu- liarly favorable to the Vine; but a warm climate gives the best Grape. It appears, however, that ~ European Vines could not be made to succeed in Alabama, and we can therefore only recommend native or naturalized Vines to our cultivators. As we have very numerous varieties, which have been thoroughly proved in various latitudes, we need not embark in fruitless labor. From a comparison with French culture it is believed Grapes may be cultivated for wine in any climate where the maize or Indian corn is a sure crop, and never defeated by the frost. | B2 18 SOIL, &C. Hxposure.—The most suitable exposure for a vineyard is in sloping grounds open from the south east tothe south. No trees should be allowed to intercept the sun’s rays, nor should any cultivation be admitted among the Vines. As land is very plenty, and as Grapes and wine will pay well for good cultivation, there is no apology for slighting the proper claims of the Vine. The following extracts from Rozier’s Memoir on the Vine, are interesting :— “ The vine is a plant whose transpiration and suction is abundant and vehement, which sufficiently indicates the soil and exposition natural to it. For this reason grounds composed of sand, gravel stones and other rocks, are excellent for its cultivation. “ A sandy soil produces a fine pure wine—the gravelly and stony a delicate wine—rotten and broken rocks a fumy, generous wine of a superior quality. ‘A rich, strong, compact, cold or humid soil, which is pressed down by the rains, and which the sun hardens or bakes, is essentially prejudicial to the quality of the wine. “The most advantageous exposition for the Vine, is that of a gentle slope or side of a hill, facing east and south, on which the rays of the sun continue the longest time. “ Hills in the neighborhood of the ocean and rivers ‘ought to be preferred to all others. The lower part of these hills are not so favorable to the Vine as the upper, and neither are equal to the middle region, the soil be- ing the same. “ All trees are unfriendly to the vine, as much from their roots as their shade. It should never be planted in soil that can produce grain, and because it wants nothing but heat, and thrives best on the poorest ground, This will appear ridiculous to those who look for guantity—but as to the quality of the wine, it is in strict conformity with PROPAGATION, 19 the laws of vegetation and with experience. I must be understood to speak here of countries only where tem- peratures are favorable to the success of vineyards. We rust except those in more northern latitudes. These general precepts admit of no exceptions.” The celebrated agricultural traveller Arthur Young, says immense tracts of land may be ranked in France among the most valuable, which in the British climate would be absolutely waste. In his journal he says— “ Pellecoy. P ass vineyards of which there are many so steep that itis strange how men can stand at their work. One-third of the country under vines, which are planted on absolute rocks, but calcareous. “ Cohors.—Nineteen twentieths under Vines—many more than two hundred years old! “ Plaisance.—Vine grounds double in price to wheat grounds.—In 44 1-2 degrees of north latitude. “ Poton, Chateau-rault, to les Ormes.—Voorhills with Vines sell equally with their best vale lands, in 46th degree north. “ Champagne.—Two-thirds of the country around Ay (in 49 degrees N. lat.) under Vines; and here all the famous Champagne wines are made.” PROPAGATION OF GRAPE VINES. Vines are propagated by seeds—by buds or short cuttings—by cuttings—by layers—by grafting. Planting seeds of Grapes.—lIt is a general law of nature, and manifested as well in the vegetable as the animal kingdom, that a material change of climate requires time to effect a healthful assimila- tion. It cannot well be doubted therefore that 20 PROPAGATION. European Vines may by degrees be naturalized in our country, and I presume some of our excellent Long-Island cultivators are now experimenting in this matter. If tlie seeds of European Grapes, and the buds of European Vines raised here, can be brought to germinate, we may be sure of success. Most of our good Grapes may be traced to their European origin ; and the field now open for pro- curing new varieties by seedlings and grafting, may afford both profit and delight to amateur cul- tivators as well as to nursery-men. We should procure a seedling progeny from the best Grapes, and from these selectthe best. The seeds of these should again be sown, and the Vines will be better adapted to our climate. ‘This is the. way to na- turalize foreign Vines. The innumerable varieties of Grapes in every country are no doubt the production of seeds drop- ped by birds. As most of these are diwcious, or without having the stamens and pistils on the same Vines, they are in most cases unfruitfal, unless the corresponding Vines are contiguous. Here there are thousands of barren Vines, (called made Vines) growing in the woods, which may form good stocks to graft upon. It is better to procure cuttings of well known Vines, than to lose time and labor with producing from seeds. A seedling Vine will show blossoms in its fourth or fifth year. It is unnecessary to detail the mode of procuring Vines from seeds, as the process is simple and well known. Itis mostly done by the aid of pots in hotehouses and green-houses ; bui the native Va- rieties may be raised from seed in the open air. By Buds.—Take single joints of the Vine and cut them at half the distance from the next bud each way—dip each end in a warm mixture of about PROPAGATION. 21 two parts of rosin and one part of beeswax—put them about an inch deep and about ten inches apart in mellow earth, somewhat moist,—strew some horse-dung over the rows, and if the weather should be dry give them occasionally a watering. In the 3d volume of the Memoris of the Phila- delphia Society for promoting Agriculture, Mr. Matlack, giving an account of a speedy mode of propagating the Vine, says—‘‘ Take a single joint of the Vine you choose, cut it off at half an inch above the eye—cover each end with a sticking plaster of any kind, and set it in a pot of garden mould—the eye of the cutting must be covered with garden earth and then watered to settle the ground. After this, lay half an inch of horse-dung on the surface to keep it from becoming dry and hard—+place the pot in your hot-bed, &c.” Loudon’s London Magazine states that Mr. Pil- laus “takes an eye froma Vine in the month of March, and from it produces in the following April or May twelve month, a handsome plant, bearing bunches of ripe fruit. The correspondent saw several pots with such buds in various stages of progress. ‘The process is not explained. By Cuttings.—Any well .ripened wood of the last years growth is good for a cutting, but the nearer it is to the old wood the more likely it will be to succeed, and even if a small piece of the old wood remains it will be all the better. A cutting should embrace three or more buds, and should be taken from the plant before the circulation of the sap commences, and be from six to twelve inches in length. They are taken from the Vines at the pruning in March (or may be taken at any time between the first of November and first of April) and cut to their proper dimensions in the following 22 PROPAGATION. » manner. About an inch of wood is left above the upper bud and is (afterwards when set in the grcund) cut sloping at the back side from the bud in order that it may te protected. ‘They are then buried in the earth, or kept in a cellar until wanted for setting out. They are first set in a garden or well protected ground, and at a distance of six to twelve inches apart in rows which may bea foot or more apart. At the lower end, which goes in the ground, the wood is cut as near to the bud as it can be without injury. They are set in the ground so deep as that the topmost bud shall just come to the top of the ground, so as to receive the benefit of earth and air, as this is the only bud which shoots above ground—the others going to the forma- tion of roots (Fig. 1, p. 36.) If the season should be dry they will require watering several times. I consider a shady place, a spot but little exposed to the sun, as being preferable for cuttings. Some- times they are put endwise in a pot or box and filled in with earth and watered. In this manner a great number may be put in a small space or transportation. I once successfully sent cuttings from New-York to Little Rock, in Arkansas, by way of New Orleans. ‘These were placed in sods of grassy earth, a little moistened. | The cutting will in the first year throw upa shoot from the top bud. Iftwoshould come forth the weakest must be taken away, and if none should come it is not certain that the cutting is dead, as it will sometimes throw out a shootunder the ground and push its way to the surface in the next season. If the cutting throws out a strong shoot the first season, you may, at the March pru- ning, cut it down to two buds from the main stock, (Fig. 2, p. 87) or if a weak shoot cut it to one 4 PROPAGATION. 33 bud. The young Vine is sometimes transplanted | to its permanent place at or about this time, but I would not recommend it until the third year from. the cutting. In the introduction into Switzerland of Vines from abroad it was frequently found that the plants of foreign cuttings have refused (though arrived at the proper age, and possessing a vigorous matu- rity) to unfold a solitary flower. Cuttings from such plants have been tried, which have blossomed and the flowering been succeeded by abortion.-— From the plants of succeeding cuttings other cut- tings have been cultivated, following up the system for several seasons, till in the end a complete su*- cess has crowned the experiment; and it has been proved that the process of acclimating the stranger plant has not reached its full accomplishment un- til it has passed through four, and sometimes five generations of the Vine. By Layers.—Vines are also propagated by lay- ers which consists in bending down a branch, while attached to a stock, into a channel dug in the earth, and burying it at a proper depth ina curving line with the end having two buds above the earth, _and strongly pegged to its place, so as not to lift by its own elasticity. Roots will start plentifully from the part in the earth, and when it is well root- ed it may be cut from the parent Vine and trans- planted. When a Vine becomes old or injured we some- times make layers to continue it, and therefore do not cut it froin the main stock. This is a good mode, and is much practiced in France to supply vacancies in Vineyards. By Grafting —In the spring of 1832, I grafted thirteen wild Grape Vines on my ground and they soon grew toa considerablelength. In the fall of 24 PROPAGATION. , that year I observed the wood did not ripen, and » during the winter they all perished. By reason of its being in an unhealthy location I abandoned my vineyard, and-did not renew the experiment. My mode was to cut the stock below the surface of the earth, and makeaclean split or cleft, fitting the scion as a long wedge merely into the wood, and making the bark, on one sideof it to match, where it would fit. J then packed the rich mould around it. Another mode is to bore holes with a gimlet or a bit,and fit the graft with a shoulder to the square stock, Other modes are practiced, and any skilul hand would, probably, be successful. The great difficulty in grafting is the liability of the stock to bleed sv profusely that the graft can- not unite with the stock. ‘This in ‘uces some gar- deners to delay the operation until the blossoms © begin to show out; but as in the latitude of New York the sap begins to rise in February, that is the best time to graft. If not performed in February it should be delayed till the second week in May. The grafts or scions should be cut a month before wanted for use, in order to keep them back, and not to be as forward as the stock; particularly if to be done at the latter period, the lower end of them should be wrapped in moss a little damp, or stuck ina potato. The modes of grafting are well known, but the Viue is more difficult to graft than common trees. In cleft grafting the scion should be as near as possible the size of the Vine, so that the bark may fit. If the stock is too high a flower pot or box may be filled with earth and the stock thus cover- ed. Grafts thus fitted sometimes bear the first year. A correspondent of the N. Y. Farmer says— ‘At New Orleans.I saw a very fine muscadel SS PROPAGATION, 25 Vine in the garden of a horticulturisi in the upper Fauxburgh, which was grafted, as he told me, on a native stock while one which stood immediately contiguous, but which had not been grafted, was unthrifty and insignificant in appearance, and bore comparatively no fruit at all. They were bith planted at the same time, and were then sixteen years old, so that the experiment in that instance was completely decisive, that unless grafted on na- tive stocks they will not succeed.’ Mr S. Weller, of Berkleyville, N. C., succeeded in graiting a variety of scions from Pensylvania, on-the fox Grape and other native stocks of his neighborhood, and thus obtained a variety of good sorts. 1 have known grafting by approach, as it is cal- led, to be successful. It consists in bringing the branches of two Vines of different kinds together, just as the sap hegins to ascend, and cutting each branch at the side so that they may unite and the sap of each intermingle. Both will probably grow and the preferable one may be cut from the pa- rent stock. ; Many operators do not succeed well in grafting ; but as it is essential, we would inculcate the most careful experiments in this matter. Mr. Herbe- mont says— “The mode of grafting which I practise usually, and which is attended with no difficulty, and very seldom fails, is as follows : If the Vine I wish to graft in is in the place I desire to have it, all, I do is to take away the earth round it, to the depth of four or five inches, saw it off (or cut it off with a sharp knife, according to its size,) about two or three inches below the surface of the ground. (This depth may be regulated by the length of the scion used.) Split it with a knife or chisel; and having tapered | c ua 26 PROPAGATION, the lower end of the scion in the shape of a wedge, insert _ it in the cleft stock, so as to make the bark of both coincide, (which is perhaps not necessary with the Vine) —tie it with any kind of string, merely to keep the scion . in its place; return the earth to its place, so as to leave only one bud of the graft above the ground, and the other just below the surface, and it isdone. If I have no Vine where I wish to have one, I dig it out of the woods, &c. &c.; cut it off as above described; insert the scion; tie it and plant it where wanted, leaving, as in the other case, only one bud or two above the ground. All the care that it now requires is to surround it with sticks, to prevent its being trampled upon or otherwise injured, and to notice the shoots that may grow below the graft, that they may be immediately taken off close to the stock, taking care, in so doing, not to move the scion or graft, which might prevent its taking. Such grafts usually grow as soon as the other buds of the Vine in the neighborhood ; but it sometimes happens they are much later; and I havethad some that did not push till about June—even as late as the middle of that month. REN When the stock, or the Vine into which you wish to insert a graft, is too large to be conveniently split, as in the last mode of grafting, as when they are several inches in diameter, after having sawed it two or three inches below the surface of the ground, nearly horizontally, I take a gimlet, or (which is best) a carpenter's stock and taper-bit, and bore one or more holes, according to the size of the stock, about an inch and a quarter deep. 1 then prepare the scion, (which in this case ought to be selected pretty large,) and by cutting the bark and a little of the wood all round, within an inch and a quarter of the lower end, fit it to the hole, and push it in till the shoulder of bark, made by the cutting, as here above described, comes down to the sawed surface of the stock ; and if the stock is large enough to require two or three grafts, after having fitted them all in, I return the earth, leaving only one or two buds at most above ground, as above, and the ~ grafting isdone. As this last method of grafting usually » PROPAGATION, 27 succeeds as well as the first, it would seem to indicate that it is not necessary in grafting the Vine, as it most undoubtedly is for all other fruit trees, that the bark of the stock, and that of the scion or graft, meet and coin- cide exactly; for, in the latter case, the scions are inserted in any pat of the stock. All that remains now to be attended to is, as to the best seasen for grafting the Vine, and the best manner of keeping the scions until that time. I have generally sue- ceeded best when I have grafted late in the spring, and just before the buds of the Vine burst into leaves; that is, when the sap is flowing pretty freely., It is, however, a matter of some importance that the scions should have been kept back, if possible, so that their buds are only beginning to swell, and this must regulate the time of grafting. ‘The scions may be kept back, and their vege- tation retarded, by burying them in as cold a place as can conveniently be found—such as the north side of a hill of a house, fence, &c.; in short, where the ice and snow remain the longest. A small trench, a few inches deep, is made—the scions laid flat down in the bottom, and entirely covered. I think a better way still, (one, how- ever, which I never had an opportunity of trying,) would be to put them in a box of sand somewhat moistened, and deposite the box in an ice-house. The scions being thus kept back, may be used for grafting with complete suc- cess, so late as when the Vine for the stock is in full leaves. I have thus grafted Vines sent me by mail from the north as late as June, and they grewwell. I should always prefer, however, to do it earlier, when it can conveniently be done.” Berneaud says, ‘‘there are several kinds of graft- ing used for Vines. Shoulder grafting succeeds well on old stocks—so does budding, or insertion— but the most common are slit-grafting and tongue- grafting. Latterly escutcheon-grafting has been much used in spring before the ascent of the sap. 28 . PROPAGATION. Grafting by approach also will succeed, but the most favorable of all methods is crown grafting on the root.” Vines in Pots.—In England, where Grapes can only be cultivated in hot-houses, some of their best gardeners force their Vines in pots in the tollowing manner. They take a eutting of young wood of three, four or five feet in length, and coil it ina large pot, rubbing off all the buds but two, and leaving those buds at or near the surface, the weakest of which is afterwards rubbed off, It is then placed in a hot-bed, and soon puts forth and fills the pot with roots. It may be re-potted and extended according to circumstances. By putting the pot containing the Vine within another, and filling the space between them with soil, a uniform ‘moisture may be preserved. In our country the gardeners and ladies who cherish house plants, may in this way obtain fine foreign Grapes. ‘“ Any one who is anxious to have Vines in pots with Grapes fully grown should, at the time of pruning, take the stem through a hole in the bottom of the pot, and lay the rest of the Vine from the bottom of the pot in the ground — For such pur- poses I take the old shoots that are to be cut out that season. Fr the pots I use the same compost as for the border. I always keep rotted dung about the pots, as it makes the Vines strike much sooner than keeping the pots dry. I have had twenty- six good branches in pots, and could have had more but for thining. When the fruit is at maturity I cut the old branch by the bottom of the pot, and remove the plant at pleasure for ornament.” Another Mode.—In the spring, before the buds swell, take a healthy, well ripened Vine, and draw it through the hole of a large flower pot—fill in PRUNING, &C, 29 earth, and cover the pot with moss or coarse — manure on the outside, to keep in the moisture. About the last of August cut the shoot half off at the bottom of the pot., In October cut the branch entirely off, and carry‘the pot with its load of ripe Grapes to any proper place. With proper treat- ment the fruit will hang on tll February. OF PRUNING AND TRAINING. The Isabella Vines are sometimes so extremely exuberant in their growth.and foliage, that it is not easy to prescribe rules for pruning and training, which will suit all cases. As they are much cul- tivated in gardens—in hot houses—over arbors and trellises, and often in the espalier form, I shall give some general remarks which may enable those who cultivate but two or three vines, to do their own trimming ; as it is sometimes inconvenient er impossible to procure a professor to trim your Vines —such persons being in great demand at the trim- ming season. After your Vine is transplanted to the spot where it is to remain, you are to train it according te the space which you wish it tocover. I would advise, if the arbor, trellis, fence or house will allow it, that it be trained about a foot from the ground, in two shoots or branches, forking each way from the main upright stock. It is thus within reach for a time; but you will soon require ladders to trim the Vine and gather the fruit. J.etit be particularly observed that [> the fruit ahouys grows on the shoots of the PRESENT season, which spring from wood of the Last season. ‘This is very important to be known and critically o2 30 PRUNING, &O. observed by every person who attempts to prune a Vine. ‘he appearance of the wood will readily indicate its age and quality, and a little observation may make any discreet person a good trimmer. First Pruning.—The first or winder pruning, as it is called, takes place in March, although it may be done from the first of November to the first of March, if the Vines are not frozen. I prefer the early part of March. It consists in cutting out dead wood—shortening the runners—and training and tying to the supporters. If your Vine is under five years old, you would do well to follow the rules herein laid down; but if itis older you must exercise a judgment founded on the extent of your supports—the strength of the root, and the feed or manure afforded toit. You will see at Fig. 6, p.46, the mode of trimming and training as practiced in vineyards, which may readily be adapted to other situations. A vine may well be allowed to bear eight runners, trained horizontally or vertically, according to the taste of the cultivator, or to the situation of his supporters. Of these fonr may, at the winter pruning, be shortened down to a single bud,and the four others intermediate be trained vertically, in a serpentine form, so high as to give the number of buds to which you will limit your Vine. The long branches will bear fruit the pre- sent year—throwing outa shoot at every bud, and every shoot bearing three or more clusters. ‘These will be cut down toa single bud at the next winter pruning. The intermediate four buds or spurs will each send forth one shoot, which must be trained vertically, in a serpentine form, between the bearing branches on the trellis. These are intended to make bearing wood for the next year, and must not be allowed to bear fruit except at _ PRUNING, &(. 31 s every alternate season. In this mode the Vine may be perpetuated, and kept within a reasonable compass ; but if some such rule is not adopted your Vine will grow beyond your reach, and bear fruit only at the extremities—leaving an unsightly mass of large old branches near the ground. In this country, where Vines if neglected will sometimes cover an acre of ground, and become dead or worth- less, in a few years, it is necessary to look to its perpetuity by good cultivation and keeping it in proper compass. It is proper in the spring of the year to strip off the ragged bark and moss which gathers around the trunk, which will otherwise become a harbor for insects and have a bad ap- pearance. Washing with soap suds gives the trunk a clean and healthy -aspect. At this pruning the branches should be well fastened to the supports, particularly at the ex- tremities. Strips of bass-wood matting are good for the purpose. When Vines from any cause are trimmed as late as April or May, they will discharge much sap—or “bleed” as it is called. Some consider this as very injurious to the Vine, but I think the disadvantage is much over-rated. If it is thought neeessary to stop the bleeding, a little fine plaster of Paris may be applied with the fingers to the place cut, or a — little gardner’s wax. A potato stuck upon the end of a bleeding Vine will often stop the running. Second Pruning.—From the Ist to the 10th of May (according to the season) the buds are putting forth into leaf and generally two or three branches at every bud or joint. They then require the second pruning—the first having taken place in March. I then rub off the superfluous buds, leaving 82 PRUNING, &O, but one shoot to each bud. This process 1 call “ budding,” and it is essential to get good fruit and strong wood on the remaining shoots, and prevent the future crowding and entangling of the shoots. They are disengaged with a slight touch, and a short time will suffice for many Vines. Young Vines are often tied to a single pole or stake until three or four years old ; but good care must be taken that they have this second pruning, or they will suffer greatly by the neglect. If old Vines are neglected at this budding, as they generally are, you will have a tangled knot of branches at every fruit-bud—radiating from one point—and your Vine will soon get into mextrica- ble confusion. If not afterwards taken out, you will have numerous shoots and many clusters of very poor fruit; and at the March pruning all the tangled wood must be taken away. Third Pruning.—The third pruning takes place about the middle of June, after the Vine has passed the flowering, and must be done with great care, and as little agitation of the Vine as possible. At this time I cut off with shears or scissors, or pinch off with finger and thumb, the da¢erals, which spring out of the green shoot on the side opposite to the fruit. They may be taken off at any time during the season, but not quite down to the shoot. It is best to do it at the proper time, before they have acquired size and strength, at the expense of the rest of the wine. Ifthe tendrils or claspers are not required to support the vine, they may be clipped off also. After the berries are set good cultivators take off branches of the fruit, to prevent the over-crop- ping of the vine. Every fruit-bearing shoot is thus reduced to the numer of clusters which it is re- ° PRUNING, &C. 33 quired to ripen. 'This is essential when the finest table grapes are wanted, but not so where wine is made, unless it is considered necessary to perpet- uate the vine, and prevent its redundance. Tew persons have courage to prune the vine to the great extent which experienced vignerons deem necessary ; but if they will make experiments, and institute comparisons, I am persuaded the perma- nent advantages will be in favor of close pruning, and keeping the vine to its smallest dimensions. If it is from any cause omitted, the leading shoots run beyond reach, and fruit will grow at the extremi- ties, and a long and snake-like trunk will display its ragged and unsightly appearance on your trelis. In vine growing countries, so particular are the proprietors to have their vines closely pruned, and not over-cropped, that where a vineyard is leased, it is customary to insert an obligation limiting the lessee to the particular number of buds or branches - which he may allow on each vine. I formerly practiced a Fourth Pruning, called stopping, or shortening, as recommended by Mr. Cobbett and others. It was done about the middle of July, when the fruit had obtained about half its growth. I then shortened all the branches having fruit on (except those retained for perma- nent runners) by cutting them at two or three joints forward of the fruit. This was considered important to the development and ripening of the fruit, by the removal of green wood and leaves ; _ but subsequent experience has led me to doubt the propriety of this pruning for the Isabellas, as the - vine is sure to send out new leaves, and sometimes untimely fruit, if itis improperly pruned either by design or accident.—I think best, therefore, to let o4 PRUNING, &0O. the sap expend itself in giving length to the shoot, which will be taken off at the following March pruning. I would particularly caution all persons against taking off the leaves, which are called ‘‘ the lungs of the plant,” and are vitally essential to the ripening of the fruit. The best fruit is always in the deepest shade, and if by any chance it becomes exposed to the sun, it is injured thereby, and be- comes inferior and sour. In Mr. Colman’s late tour in England, he quotes from a-practical gardener some directions for the management of vines as follows :-——“ With regard to the management of the vine when fruiting, I in- variably stop the shoot one eye above the bunch and it is the practice of the best gardeners in Eng- land. I generally leave one shoot not stopped with- out fruit, and to fruit next season, and cut the shoots out that have borne fruit this year. On the shoot- spur system, every shoot is stopped an eye above the bunch, except the top one, and then it must be managed like the rest; all the lateral shoots must , be stopped an eye above another until] they cease growing, as the more leaves you get, the fruit swell larger.” Mr. Prince, of Flushing, in the preface to his recent nursery catalogue, says—‘In regard to pruning, the American varieties simply require such thinning out during the winter as is necessary to prevent the branches injuring each other by contact, and the removal of such weak spurs as are immature and imperfect; but no fear should be indulged that the vine, if in good soil, is not capable of maturing its fruit on any extent of branches it may naturally produce—as, among the most productive vines found in Carolina there are many instances where a single vine covers an acre, PRUNING, &O. 35 Summer pruning is only called for in locations where the vines are confined to too narrow limits, and then but very partially, as any considerable pruning will cause the fruit to turn black and fall off, and even cutting off the leaves will prevent the maturity of the fruit, as they are the conduc- tors of the essential nutriment from the atmosphere to the fruit, and to the whole plant. The foreign varieties being natives of a much milder climate require considerable pruning, and but a moderate proportion of the vigorous shoots should be allow- ed to remain, it being necessary in this case to substitute skill and artificial culture, in order to remedy the inappropriateness of climate. The most delicate foreign varieties do not succeed in this latitude except under glass ; but in that way they ripen well, and are exceedingly productive.” I should infer from this, that Mr. Prince had changed his mind, respecting the pruning of Amer- _ ican vines, since the publication of his book in 1830.--His experience corresponds well with others, as the very great exuberance of our na- tive vines will not admit of the close pruning given to all foreign vines. Italian Training.—In some parts of Italy the vines are planted in rows about twenty feet apart, and the plants in the row at the distance of six feet from each other. Instead of being, as in Swit- zerland, cut down to the height of four feet, they are suffered*to shoot forth their branches to the extent to which nature limits them, and the fruit may be in ripening clusters, frequently twenty feet froin the ground. ‘The support isthe Mulber- ry tree, the branches of which are reduced to the length of five or six feet from the trunk at the point of diverging, the inner shoots being so cut as 36 PRUNING, &C. _to form a frame, resembling in shape the cone of a Wine-giass. ° . Scaffolding.—Mr. Weller, of Brinkleyville, N. C., speaks of scaffolding his vines to give free pas- sage to carts, ani considers hogs beneficial in a vineyard, to keep down grass and weeds. His scuppernong vines are 30 feet apart, and all other vines 10 feet each way. Posts 10 feet npary se support the scaffolding. Taking off Leaves in the Fall —“ It is anaxiom of Mr. Knight, that al! vegetables which require to be leftin a state of inactivity during winter vegetate sooner in the spring, if that state of inac- tivity is brought on in autumn. Salisbury cites a - case which strongly verifies this rule in regard to the grape. A vine of the Munier,in Yorkshire, bore 1000 to 2000 bunches of fruit annually, not twenty of which were ripened in a season, under ordinary, management. ‘The vine was pruned and stripped of its leaves oa the 20th of September, _ seven years in succession, alter which it ripened half a crop in ordinary, and a whole crep in warm weather. Fig. 1. The first year you have the cutting only, with one bud at the below. ‘The top is cut sloping from the bud, that water may not run upon the bud and i injane it. (See Fig 1.) surface of the ground and two: ~~ PRUNING, &C. 37 Fig. 2. The second year you will have one strong shoot of many buds. In March you cut off all butthe two lower or best buds, and suffer them to grow long and strong, for your main branches, to be afterwards . trained horizontally, if such is the plan of your abor or supports.—— (See Fig 2.) Fig. 3 The ¢hird year —=—=vou trim it in March in the forked or branching form, and may leave four or aaa six buds, two of which mny be allowed to bear fruit. (See Fig. 3. 2 ee Fig. 4. The fourth year you may train four shoots vertically from your main horizontal bran- ches, and may have a dozen clusters of fruit. — The intermediate shoots must be traine for next year’s bearers, and the fruit rubbed off to give strength to the shoot. (See Fig. 4.) The fifth year the vertical branches are to be trained to proper distances, having a bud on the horizontal branch between each, to be trained, D 38 PRUNING, &C. without fruit as a next year’s bearers. When the main branch reaches the extent of the trellis it may be turned upward, vertically. (See Fig. 5.) After the fifth year the vine may be trained to a proper economy of the trelles or supporters, and with regard to access for pruning and gathering, or shade where it is desirable—training some and pruning others, so that all parts of the trellis be properly covered—sometimes encouraging, or al- lowing to remain, a new shoot on account of its position, and at other times taken out old wood, to give place to more sightly or better shoots. Re- gard will be had to beauty of appearance and sym- metry, which are generally in accordance. with - the productiveness and perpetuity of the wine. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING. We have described the mode of propagating the vine, but as the planting or transplanting is a mat- ter of importance to its future growth, much care n ust be taken in that branch of culture. Although the vine will live, if transplanted in a PLANTING, &C. 39 proper manner, any season when the earth is not - frozen, yet many good reasons might be given why the fall is the best for that purpose. ‘The roots will become settled, and the moisture of the earth and the alternations of the weather will probably start them, or prepare them for an early start in the spring, and thas much time will be saved. — The ground should be well ploughed or dug up, and a hole made abeut two feet deep, and large enough to admit all the roots without crowding. Some good black, topsoil from the border must be put in the bottem of the hole, but no manure of any kind, as its heating and fermeuting qualities would injure, if not destroy the plant. Set the roots on the top of the dark mould and throw the earth in loosely, breaking the lumps——pull the stock up a little and shake it, that the earth may get among the small roots. Fill in the earth to within” three or four inches of the surrounding ground, and pour a few quarts of water therein, enough to penetrate tothe root. The ground should remain depressed around the stock. It should immediate- iy be staked, or supported, to prevent the wind from straining it. In cultivated ground, vines may be planted 40 er 50 feet apart, as apple trees are in a orchard. In these cases they should be trained long and suf- fered to lay upon a high platform, made of poles on crotches. In this manner they may be raised _out of the way of cattle or of thieves. and be made a delicious shade for man and animals. MANURING THE VINE. Although the vine will flourish on poor, dry, and sandy soils, yet it nevertheless, after a few years 40 MANURING, &€. exhausts the soil around it, and requires manure. But it must be given with much prudence and not in excess. Liquid manures are to be preferred, and stable manures avoided. Leav s of all sorts, and peet or swam, earth is desirable. Bones and animal manures from slaughter houses are much used, as also lime and gypsum. Soap suds, soot , poudrett, ashes, of all kinds, street and road ma- nure—all are goud for the grape, and every family makes enough for several vines. Fish and sea weed are also much used in France, but the latter is said to give a peculiar taste to the wine. New earth must be applied when the vines are ona side hill, to replace that which washes away. If the vines become yellow, it is an indication of weak- ness in the root, and that manure is required. It is best applied in the fall, or early in the spring. Guano in a liquid state, and sparingly, is good. FORCING GRAPES IN HOT HOUSES. Mr. Julius W. Paulsen. who was in 1838 a Gardner with Joseph A. Perry, Esq, of Brook- lyn, N. Y., translated from a German newspaper, and gave to the public a most inteteresting and im- portant article on the culture of the grape vine, published by the Horticultural Society of Ham- burgh. Mr. Paulsen remarks: “The advantages of this new system over any other, until now known practice, consists chiefly in the follow- ing: 5. It produces ripe fruit in the middle of the winter, when any kind of fruit is always most acceptable and es- teemed. 2. It requires after the first year no more expense than common graperies, where they have ripe fruit in the months of May, June or July. FORCING GRAPES IN HOT-HOUSES. AL 3. It does not, like other forcings, weaken the constitu- tion of the vines. The last advantage is the greatest of all, as you only change the season of vegitation—and observe, so soon as you acquire this important article exactly, by giving them spring, snmmer, fall and winter, the grape-vine must thrive as thriftily, and bear as abundantly, as in its open native soil. The public will excuse me, if I take the liberty to re- mark, that it will be impossible to expect any advantage from this new system, or any other kind of forcing grapes, if they want to raise Green or Hot-house plants with the grapes. They will never obtain half a crop, and be only disappointed.” New method of obtaining a very early crop of Grapes, in Forcing-houses. Published by J. A. Ohlendorff, sq. President of the Horticultural Society and Dérector of the Botanical Garden at Hamburgh. TRANSLATED BY JULIUS W. PAULSEN, The Horticultural Society of Hamburgh, at a sitting m November, 1835, offered a premium of eight Hamburgh ducats, to be awarded in 1837, to that individual, who shouldsucceed in producing the largest quantity of highly flavored grapes, not less than half a pound in weight, at a period not later in the season, than the 15th March. Mr. H. Davis, superintendant of the forcing-houses of E. Srzzr, Esq., in Hamburgh, has succeeded by a new, and until now, unpractised management in ripening high, ly flavored grapes by the 14th of January. Mr. Steer having exhibited at the meeting of the Horticultural So- ciety three different kinds of grapes as samples, the So- ciety unanimously resolved, to award Mr. Davis the pre- mium of the eight Hamburgh ducats. Mr. Dayvis’s method of procedure is quite novel to us, and will prove of the highest importance to those who desire to grow very early crops of grapes. While at Demerara and Trinidad, he observed with admiration the judicious D2 42 ¥YORCING GRAPES IN HOT-HOUSES. management of the inhabitants, by which they have a continuous crop of ripe grapes throughout the year. For that purpose they make choice of a border planted with strong three year old vines, of the following late bearing kinds ; black Alicant, Chasselas rouge, and blue Franken- thala. If the owner of such a border wishes to have ripe grapes in January, he sews up the vines in a coarse, loose linen canvass, lays them down, and covers them closely with wooden shutters. These shutters must be covered with about two feet of earth, and then an extra covering of leaves over the whole, sufficient to prevent any influ- ence of the sun. Although, in the experiment made by Mr. Davis, the vines employed were but one year old, he still succeeded, perfectly, in raising a crop of ripe grapes by the middle of January. The forcing-house was heated by steam, and Mr. Davis suggests, that in vineries heated by flues, the vines should be well syringed in a temperature of 16° 17° Reaumur. The Soeiety are gratified to have called forth, through the means of the premium awarded to Mr. Davis, this ingenious method, practised in tropical Amer- ica. Although Mr. Arkwright exhibited before the Hor- ticultural Society of London, twenty-five years ago, grapes ripened in January, yet his method requi red at least three years preparation for the late ripening varie- ties. Mr. Arkwright’s method appears to have consisted in the use of pine-houses and vineries, adapted to pro- duce a later display of their leaves; but this method, if a successful one, was not sufficiently made known in its details, to be of any public advantage. In Mr. Davis’s method, vines are selected which have never produced fruit, and they are retarded by a double repose, from their usual growth, in order that they may push ata late period with the more vigor. It is a well known fact in vegetable physiology, and one which must be observed in all early forcings, that there is a period of vegetation in summer, and one of re- pose in winter, in all plants. All vegetables produce, with few exceptions, their blossoms and fruits once in the year FORCING GRAPES IN HOT-HOUSES. 43 and then return to a state of repose, in order to collect new vigor for the new vegetation. In the same way the grape vine will long produce fruit annually, though at different seasons, if the period of repose be changed and effectually carried out; rest being a leading rule, without which no plant can produce good fruit. Yo attain this, the vines, after they have been planted one, two or three years in a prepared house, must be forced as early as pos- sible in a temperature of 15° to 17° Reaumur, so as to obtain healthy and vigorous shoots, which must be al- lowed to bear no fruit or lateral branches. in this way strong vines, and of a necessary length, will be obtained. By the end of March these vines will have grown so much, that the wood will be prepared for ripening in the month of April, which must be effected by a decline of temperature to 8°—10° Reaumur. In the beginning of May the vines must be taken down, and, after having lain fourteen days, they must be sewed up in coarse can- vass, covered with shutters, and the shutters with earth and leaves. There they must remain until the end of July. In August begin to air them by degrees, and in the month of September the covers should be taken off, the vines trimmed andtied up. The forcing should now commence, giving the vines a moist atmosphere, and a temperature of 16°—18° Reaumur, until the fruit is ripe. The season of the vines is then changed, and by the same attention to the time of repose, they will bear as readily and abundantly in winter as at any other season. J. A. OHLENDORFF, President of the Horticultural Society and Director of the Botanical Garden at Hamburgh. INSECTS, BLIGHT, ROTTING, &c. About the 8th of June, while the vire is in flower, and throwing its peculiar and delicious perfume around, its great enemy, the rose-bug, makes its appearance and feeds with voracity on % 44 INSECTS, BLIGHT, ROTTING. the sweet and delicate blossom. In a few days after their first appearance, thousands are seen car- rying destruction throughout the vineyard. The best remedy I could ever devise, is to go among the vines early in the morning, before the sun has warmed them into activity, and they are then easily made to fall into the hand or on the ground, and may be crushed and destroyed. If rose bushes are near they will prefer to rest on them. A few mornings spent in this way will clear a vineyard. They are a short lived enemy. I have observed in the city, that spiders and cater- pillars are in some degree destructive to the green fruit. Spiders will get to the centre of the cluster and cause the fruit to fall in single grapes. ‘The caterpillar attacks the stem, and the whole green cluster falls to the ground. In cities, rats will sometimes come in droves in the night and destroy the ripe fruit—-dogs and poul- try will also eat them if they are allowed to get at them. In the latter part of July, the blight or rot, takes place where vines are cultivated in fields, but it is seldomseen in cities. Great quantities of fruit will become brown and sometimes black and fall off. It is seen as much on the high as the low vines, and no less on fruit exposed to the_sun, than in the. shade. Some have ascribed this to the operation of the sun shining through drops of dew on the leaves, and operating as a lens. I have supposed it the result of bad trimming, or want of sufficient trimming ; and that the exuberance of the vine, like the apple and peach tree, might thus disbur- den itself of a portion of its fruits. As an experi- ment, I discharged on the vines with a syringe soap suds, to which had been added lime and sul- phur. I feared I should lose all my grapes, but to INSECTS, BLIGHT, ROTTING. 45 my surprise [hada good crop notwithstanding and the remaining fruit was much better for this natural pruning. Small worms will sometimes appear in a dense cluster in the under part of the leaf, and sometimes a large worm two or three inches long, like those on the vines and leaves of the potato and the to- mato. ‘These must be sought out and destroyed. A writer in the Southern Agriculturist as a_ re- medy for the rotting of the grapes, has practiced very high culture with success, on dry and un- shaded arbors. He observes that his vines pro- duce more and better grapes thus trained, and they are ofa convenient height and width to drive a wagon under ; and they are also out of the way of pilferers, unless they carry a ladder with them. Mr. Clark, in the Southern Agriculturist, advises deep planting of the vine, and ascribes the rot or mildew to great rain after a drought, when the top roots receive rain to repletion. ‘The vine has a propensity to form a tap reot which protects it from the extremes of moisture and dryness. 'To favor the formation of a tap root deep planting is requisite. Myr. C. gives an instance of a Swiss cultivator who planted his vines in a ditch or trench more than three feet in depth, and after they were of good growth filled near the surface with poor earth, to retard the surface roots. No rot or mil- dew was ever known among his vines, VINEYARD CULTURE. When the vines are three years old they may be set in a vineyard, and at a proper. distance to be trained on the supporters. ‘These will vary ac. cording to the convenience or circumstances of the proprietor. In 1831, my vineyard of three hun- dred Isabella vines had become sufficiently large 46 VIMEYARD CULTURE. to be permanently trained. The rows were eight feet apart, and vines eight feet in the rows. Com- mon posts eight feet long were put two feet in the ground and eight feet apart, having a vine mid-way between the posts. My trellis was composed of lath or strips of sawed boards, nailed to the posts, the lower lath being one foot from the ground, and three above—the upper one being quite at the top of the posts. The extraordinary growth of the Isabella vines soon rendered them crowded and tangled. I trimmed the main branches along the lowest rail horizontally, and caused the branches about one foot apart to ascend vertically in a crook- ed or serpentine form to the top rail.—(See Fig. 6.) But Lam diffident of giv- ing advice about training large and vigorous Isa- bella vines, in open rows —they grow best and appear best trained on arched arbors eight or ten feet high The weight of fruit and vine requires something to resé upon; and if tied to a trellis or railing, they will ascend above the railing and be thrashed about by the wind and broken, In March, 1832, I sold ten thousand cuttings of the Isabella Grape, to William Underhill, of Croton Point, near Sing Sing, New York, who now has a flourishing Fig. 6. ~ VINEYARD CULTURE. 4] vineyard there of seven acres, from which he sends his fruit to New York. His brother, Dr. R. 'T..- Underhill, whose farm and vineyard adjoins, culti- vates twenty acres in the Isabella and Catawba grapes, which are sent to New York. As Dr. Underhill is a very intelligent and successful culti- vator, I shall notice him and his vineyard hereafter. —His vines are supported by posts from 6 to 12 feet apart in the rows—the vines are distant about 6 feet in the rows. The rows are mostly from 6 to 8 feet apart. The posts are about six feet above ground. The vines are trained on three ranges or trellisis on wires, the lower one being about a foot from the ground, and the upper one quite at the top. He had no regular system at the time of planting his first vineyard; but the public will hereafter be favored with the results of his experience. ‘The wire as also each end of the upright posts, had been immersed in coal tar, probably warm, as a preservation from rust or rot. The wires were wound around nails, driven into the posts within an inch of the head. This makes a very strong and durable support to the vines, and the appearance is neat and good. A system of very close pruning gives the vines plenty of sun and alr, and thns the best fruit is obtained. I have ina few instances trained vines upon large apple trees, and they ran quite to the top, and the grapes were abundant among the apples ; but this mode is not to be recommended. The fruit was bad, and trimming quite impracticable, In the city of Brooklyn, among high buildings, with proper pruning, the Isabella Vinesnéver fail to pro- duce abundantly every season.’ 'This.is’ extraordi- . nary and unlike fruit trees in general, atid it may truly be said that this 2elightiul yvineevery season - “cheereth the heart of miilions.” © 58 ° 48 AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. Change of earth ai the roots.—Is has been re- commended that ona fine day, as soonas the frost is out of the ground in the spring, the earth be re- moved from the roots of old vines and a solution of alum and clay be dissolved in water and poured upon the roots, and the earth changed about the roots. [do not mean to recommend these experi- ments; but where old vines are from any cause declining, they may be benefitted Supports and distances.—I| think it will be found that the plan adopted by Mr. Bonsall, [see page 52| and subsequently by Dr. Underhill [see page 47] of supporting vines on stow/ wires, and on posts ten feet apart, is the most economical. Mr. B. uses wire No. 11, softened. Dr. U. gives his wire a coating of coal tar. One part of this economy is, that the tendrils of the vine in some measure work their own support around the wire. Three lines of wire are turned around nails driven in the posts—the lower line should be’about a foot from the ground. Wire of No. 11 to 15 may be recom- mended, which will cost from $8 to $9 per 100 ponnds. Hach pound would probably measure from 20 to 24 feet. Black varnish would make a good coating for the wire. AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. Scuppernong Grrape.—We place this as the very first of American grapes yet known Its produc- tiveness is almost beyond credibility, as will be seen, and its qualities for the table and for wine are esteemed very great... It is sometimes called the Hickman grape, atfer the‘mah who first brought it from the Suppernong river ite Newbern, North Carolirfa,: ‘from whence it .soon acquired favor | among the farmers: and: eardners, in that vicinity. AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. 49 Captain William Burlingham, has cultivated four acres for eighteen years, and has wine of great age. A single vine has produced him a ton of fruit, and made eight barrels of wine of the best quality. It grows on sandy land which is fit {or nothing else, and the vine has proved good after sixteen years. The grape is of a white color, but there is an in- ferior grape called Scuppernong, which is of a pur- ple color. {t is dicecious, which is one reason for its not succeeding with those who do not procure the kindred vine Mr. James Blount, of the Scup- pernong river, diffused a knowledge of this excel- lent grape in some well written papers, published in North Carolina. it is a singular fact that in N. Carolina the vines are never trimmed, and this fact may lead to interesting experiments to know what effect this practice, which is every where consider- ed very essential in vine culture, might have on this vine. In making Scuppernong wine, one sixth of its quantity of proof spirits is added. Sugar or water is said to spoil it. It is said to be very difficult, if not impossible, to propagate this vine by cuttings It must be done by roots, or by layers, in the manner herein described. fsabelia Grape.—-Next to the Scuppernong we may be allowed to rank the Isabella, which ap- pears to grow well in al! parts of our extensive country, although probably in its greatest excel- lence on Long Island. ‘The fruit is dark purple, of large size, fine down, and pleasant perfume--the form oval—clusters loose and long, two seeds, pulp very Juicy, with thin red crust, near the skin—the skin very thin. It is fotind to improve much with cultivation. Itis a very great bearer, and if il- E 50 AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. lowed, the vines will cover a large space. | Good for the table and for wine. It is cultivated from Boston to Florida. It is a polygamous plant. Calawba.—As third in rank, we would name the Catawba. This is one of the best native American grapes both for the table, and for wine. Berries of a pale red or lilac color—bunches large with shoulders thick set—-slight musty taste, and delieate flavor—thin skin, and very little pulp. It grows well in the vicinity of New York, and is a good bearer. The late Mr. Adlum, regarded itas his best wine grape. It ripens the last of Septem- ber. Mr. Longworth, who is a distinguished eul- tivator of grapes in Ohio, says—* The Catawba is superior as a wine and table grape to the Isabella and matures its fruit better, though a less abundant bearer, We have native grapes in most of our states, could a selection be made, which would Jeave us little cause to regret that foreign grapes succeed so badly with us.” Cape or Alexinder Grape.—This is the grape rauch used in the Vevay, and other western vine- yards. 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