Historic, archived document

Do not assume content reflects current
scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.

Washington, D. C. August 30, 1923

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE.

By KENNETH J. MATHESON, Dairy Manufacturing Specialist, and S. A. HALt,
Scientific Assistant in Dairying, Dairy Division, Bureau of Animal Industry.

CONTENTS.
Page. Page.
Development of the Camembert-cheese Eaetory equipment. = = 12
Oa = ee oe = ae ge Cee 4 Special equipment for the ‘‘make”’
Characteristics of Camembert cheese_ 2 FOO 2 2 oie Se 13
WN eT GS ee = 2 ee 3 Construction and equipment of
Composition of Camembert cheese__ 3 FIpehine VOOM S=— 2 == 228 se, 15
Quality of milk required___________ 5 Drying machine. ===>) es 17%
Bed BIKA GTrOCesS —— =. tS 5 | The ripening of Camembert cheese__ 18
Standardizing the milk_______~_ 5 Cidinripening ss ee 18
Quantity of starter to use____ 5 Camembert-mold ripening _____ 20
Acidity of milk at renneting__ 6 “Ferments rouges,’ or red
Le SUT) Ee 8 ee a 6 STOW ihe ee ee ee 20
Setting the milk and adding HOreien sNoOlds=! 2! ol es ees Ps |
pera ee oe ye Conditions of ripening________ yall
Swedhne periog = 2 t- Wrapping—and boxing =" Se 23
Arrangement of hoops and mats_ “re Costeot | manniaemires<. on = es = 25
sence the Curd = ee 8 Wholesale and retail prices________ aE
Methods-of dipping... 8 Pome economic factors=. 2s. 26
ope mLnaa oe sen Es eS 9 Making Camembert on the farm____ 20
VOSS ee ae 10 SL Lo) 9 in re eee 28
pete en i ee ee 10
Inoculation with mold_____ __ 10
Growing mold for inoculation__, 12

DEVELOPMENT OF THE CAMEMBERT-CHEESE INDUSTRY.

Camembert cheese was first made by Marie Fountain in 1791, at
Camembert, near Argentan, in the Department of Orne, in north-
ywestern France, but it was not until some years later that the cheese
was made on an extensive scale. The industry soon extended into
Calvados, and these two Departments are still the principal seats of
the industry.

The first factories built in the United States were copied after
those of Europe and experienced cheesemakers were brought to this
country to carry on the work. Early attempts to establish the in-
dustry here were for the most part failures. The commercial manu-
facture of Camembert cheese, in fact, presents many difficulties. Suc-
cess can be attained only by experience, by close attention to details,
by proper curing conditions, and by the use of pure cultures, for

} without such cultures the product is defective and there are great
losses. The American manufacturer found it difficult to produce
cheese of a quality to compare with that made in France, as well
as to meet the foreign competition in price, even with freight and
duty charges added to the cost of the imported product. This com-

48434 °—23——__1

2 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

petition resulted in uncertain markets and prices for domestic cheese,
and as a consequence frequent losses to the manufacturer. Thus there
was little to encourage the industry in this country. 3

Just prior to the World War only about one-fourth of the Camem-
bert used in the United States was made in this country; the re-
mainder was imported from France, save a few thousand pounds of
tinned cheese brought from Germany. In 1914 about 1,500,000
pounds of cheese was received from France, the bulk of which was
Camembert. Shutting off nearly all the imported cheese during the
war period gave the American manufacturers much needed experi-
ence in handling this product. At present there are in the United
States at least 10 factories making this kind of cheese; and the
larger ones are successfully producing from 12,000 to 35,000 pounds
a month during the flush of the Camembert season. Most of this
manufacture is in New York, Illinois, Michigan, and California.
The increased demand for Camembert during the last few years may
possibly be explained by the American soldiers becoming acquainted
with the cheese during their sojourn in France. The prevailing high
price of the cheese has also stimulated the industry.

Much progress has been made in recent years by way of improved
curing conditions and in the understanding of the principles involved
in making and marketing the product. The processes of manufac-
ture now employed in most factories are so modified that in many
instances they are quite different from those originally used in
France. This bulletin discusses modern methods used in the United
States in manufacturing and marketing the cheese, together with the
precautions necessary and the difficulties often encountered in estab-
lishing a factory.

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CHARACTERISTICS OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. f

A Camembert cheese is usually 42 inches in diameter and from
about 1 to 14 inches thick. The surface of the cheese should be cov-
ered with a thin velvetlike growth of blue-gray mold and other
microorganisms. The blue-gray mold is responsible for the Camem-
bert flavor, and at first it wholly covers the cheese. With it, how-
ever, appears another growth, which is reddish yellow and produces
a moist layer technically called slime. The finished cheese should be:
largely reddish yellow, interspersed with patches of the blue-gray
Camembert mold (Penicillium camemberti); sometimes the mold
predominates, and sometimes the reddish slime does. <A thick coat
of the blue mold with little or no slime is undesirable, as it indicates
improper ripening. The slimy growth should gradually spread it-
self over the cheese during the final stages of ripening. A crinkly
surface, distinct from the regular impressions formed by the matting
or ripening boards, is undesirable, as it is a sign that the cheese has
not been ripened under proper conditions. Such a cheese, especially
if moist, often emits a strong odor and is to be avoided.

Just beneath the rind of the cheese there is a progressive ripening
which starts from the surface and moves toward the center. This
change is indicated by the color being more yellow than that of the
unripened portions, while the taste is more sour. The ripening is
caused by enzyms which are produced by the mold.

The quality of Camembert mold may be judged fairly well by its
appearance. In general, the intensity of the flavor increases with

\

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. . 3.

the softness of the cheese; very soft cheese is often strong flavored.
The odor and flavor of Camembert, however, are not repulsive, like
those of other closely related varieties, provided the manufacturing
process has been carried out properly. An extremely sticky surfaee
Im conjunction with a very soft texture is often associated with
strong, biting flavors, whereas if the cheese surface is more dry
there is usually a milder, sweeter, and more delicate flavor. Strong
odors of ammonia are usually an indication of overripeness. An
ideal Camembert cheese should emit an odor sweet and agreeable, in
contrast with the odors of decay sometimes noticeable in overripe
and improperly handled cheese.

FOOD VALUE.

Camembert cheese has a lower nutritive value than full-cream
cheese, because of its somewhat higher water content and slightly
lower fat content; nevertheless this cheese compares favorably with
other nitrogenous foods in percentages of fat, protein, and ash.
According to the Bureau of Home Economics the digestibility of
Camembert cheese is practically the same as that of cream cheese.
Like other varieties of soft cheese, it is higher in price pound for
pound than the harder kinds of cheese. Camembert, however, is
eaten more for its flavor and to give variety to the diet than for its
value as nutriment.

COMPOSITION OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE.

The composition of good grades of Camembert cheese is fairly
uniform with respect to fat, protein, and water. Normally the water
content of a cheese is about 50 per cent, fat. 28 per cent, and protein
20 per cent. The remaining 2 per cent consists of salt, ash, etc.
Figures given by Thom? on the composition of 12 cheeses are shown
in Table 1. Ten of these were imported; Nos. 8 and 9 were made in
the United States.

TABLE 1.—Andlyses of Camembert cheese in American markets.

Propor-
P tion of
Sample No. Water. Fat. Protein. fatito
protein.
Per cent. | Per cent. | Per cent.

oe eacloghe eos 2 ESB EE A eS a re 47. 50 26. 30 21. 80 1: 0.82
22 23) 22 e e eeeee Peg Ee ee eee ee oe 45. 59 27. 74. 21. 40 Leseed
ae EEE ae en ee enw masts caus See es | 46. 36 27.78 21.21 155 F716
nia s bl lok. eS Ree Be ee ee ee ee eee ee ee 48. 41 27. 01 19. 36 Less:
2 noe Se SS SS ee ee eer tee | 48. 79 26. 72 18.75 1
pucernes segue ae pee sms. Bi ts ooo Ss Fel babe gli sr bs 43. 08 32. 13 21. 27 12266
Loe Sl ee Se Se eee oe re ee 44, 25 31. 09 19. 69 1= 260
D baee cee oo Be Ae ee ee a ee age 50. 59 26. 30 18. 83 ipsa A
TES Ee es eS es ee eA ae ed Eee 47. 03 26. 67 20. 32 Be ec:
Ue cet SSS oe LAE Re a a ere Soe 54. 41 23. 04 16. 883 Lese kes
Li Soo eee eS pe SP SE i oe | ag ee ee ae ee ae oleae 25. 68 17. 61 1S l26s
DEMS Ss oS es et Ae SS Se ae ek ee eee Se ee ae 47.69 27.32 | 195057} 7 det, oo
RPT SUITUTTI Mt ert 3 eo fo ee 2 ee rupee se 43. 08 23. 04 16.83 | 1: .60
ASAT dy BARS Se Es Ie eae Se Pees ee mC Sar oe 54. 41 32.13 | 21.08) See
TED) Di NRE SR FS es SS ee eee se 47.91 27.33 | 19. 66 ep

a Domestic cheese.

1Charles Thom. 1909. Camembert Cheese Problems in the United States. U.
Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletin 115. Page 15.

TR

4 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

These figures show clearly that it is possible to standardize the
milk at about 3.6 per cent of fat by removing fat in excess of that
percentage and still maintain a ratio of fat to protein as high as
that found in the imported cheese.

Domestic Camembert at present runs somewhat higher in moisture
than the average of Table 1, which is probably because it is marketed
at an earlier date than it is possible for the imported cheese to be
placed on our markets. The chief factors which influence the keep-
ing quality of Camembert are the water content and to a less extent
the salt content. Table 2 shows the composition in respect to water
and salt of eight samples of domestic cheese, as recently determined
in the Dairy Division laboratories. The samples were selected at
random on the market, without reference to their quality. Probably
the average cheese runs somewhat higher in moisture content now
than 10 years ago. These samples of domestic Camembert represent
cheese only partially ripened. <A high percentage of domestic cheese
reaches the consumer only partially ripened, whereas the imported
cheese usually is completely ripened. Probably the bulk of domestic
cheese is marketed before it is half ripened. The nature of the wrap-
ping, whether tin foil or paper, and the age of the cheese, are factors
influencing slightly the water content of the cheese.

TABLE 2.—Water and salt in 8 samples of domestic Camembert cheese.

!
Sample No. Water. Salt. Sample No. Water. Salt.

Per cent.| Per cent. Per cent. | Per cent.
5 bee ee i eS st 2a a A aoe eS 54. 44 SOD a NO sect. ets eee ee ee ee eee 48, 24 3.48
2g SpA RA se MN end 53. 65 (1) Tide the ee ee 50. 12 3. 63
Bent ee ee I 2 52.18 PALE | Reepegene ome Rie he Oats 54. 84 2. 53
rN iaiaa ot eet, ag ele OE EI AES Te BEN 50. 37 2. 85
5 yeh oe ded = EES Gator be PN Se 54. 88 3. 00 | AVerare 32.2. sees 52. 34 3. 07

1 Not determined.

The salt in Camembert cheese is used not only because of its effect
on taste, but also because it performs a function in the ripening of
the cheese itself. Under normal conditions salt, more than any
other factor in the curing process, acts as a restraining agent
against Oidiuwm lactis. A small percentage of moisture is re- _
moved from the cheese and drains away as a result of the salting. ©
Part of the salt is absorbed by the cheese, and part passes off in the
whey. The action of the salt results in a slight crust, which likely
contains a higher salt content than the interior of the cheese. Grad-
ually the salt diffuses throughout the cheese until a salt equilibrium
is established. A high temperature, with a salting period too long
postponed, may result in such a development of Ozdiwm lactis that
the cheese will fail.to absorb the salt properly and the oidium will
prove injurious to the cheese. Under normal conditions, however,
the salt tends to check the development of this destructive organism
and maintains a healthy surface for the subsequent development of
the Camembert mold and the normal reddish slime. ; €

In order to determine the percentage of salt found in imported
cheese six samples were carefully selected and were analyzed for
water and salt. Table 3 shows the result of these analyses.?

2Charles Thom, J. N. Currie, and K. J. Matheson. 1914. Studies Relating to the
Roquefort and Camembert Type of Cheese. Bulletin 79, Storrs Agricultural Experiment
Station, Storrs, Conn.

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 5

TABLE 3.—Water and salt in 6 samples of imported Camembert cheese. ~

Sample No. | Water.

|

Salt. | Sample No. Water. Salt.
Per cent.| Per cent. |
48.10 | 5

|
Per cent. Per cent.

22 3 25 ea rs See yoo | eae ORES Fae 48. 38 | 2.32
7 TS Seer aS ieee | 47.98 | LET oS eae 2 SR Se Sei ss ea ne 47.06 | 3. 07
|. Se 49. 34 2. 34 | _—_—__—_—_—_——
or Bs pels Re eee ee | 47.95 3. 04 WE VEERPGeS. nan oe 48.13 | 2. 63

A typical ripe Camembert cheese should contain approximately 50
per cent water and 2.5 per cent salt. Undersalting may result in a_
cheese with undesirable flavors, while oversalting may become offen-
sive to the taste. :

Most imported cheese contains from 47 to 50 per cent moisture,
while the domestic cheese probably averages between 50 and 53 per
cent. A cheese with a good keeping quality should contain less than
50 per cent moisture when fully ripened. Some of the fully ripened
cheese acquires a strong, disagreeable odor and flavor of ammonia.
Drying the cheese so that it will contain less than 50 per cent mois-
ture necessitates a longer curing period than is commonly used in
this country, and greater allowance must be made for shrinkage so
that each cheese will completely fill and snugly fit its box.

The size of the cheese, the presence or absence of foreign molds,
the proper proportion of Camembert mold and reddish slime, and the
degree of firmness and ripeness are the most common factors in
judging the quality of a Camembert cheese on the market.

QUALITY OF MILK REQUIRED.

Fresh, clean milk is essential for success in the manufacture of
Camembert cheese. Normally the acidity of the milk may be judged
by testing with one-tenth normal sodium hydroxid. Where diffi-
culty is experienced in holding in check gassy fermentation, the use
of the methylene-blue reduction test is advised as a method of select-
ing milk suitable for the manufacture of this cheese.

THE MAKING PROCESS.

STANDARDIZING THE MILK.

It is usually advisable to skim milk testing high in fat for making
Camembert cheese. The milk may be skimmed to not less than 3.5
per cent fat without injury to the quality of the cheese. Some may
skim to a lower point than this, but it is not. advisable to do so, be-
cause skimming too close will impair the quality of the cheese by
causing it to become too hard and dry, and, further, because fat made
into Camembert cheese may usually be sold as profitably as when
made into butter, or even more so. The Federal standard requires
that the cheese contain 45 per cent of fat in the dry matter.

QUANTITY OF STARTER TO USE.

From 1 to 2 per cent of an active commercial starter is advised
for the making of Camembert cheese. Buttermilk starter has been
used occasionally, but a reliable commercial starter is more depend-

6 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

able. In some cases 2 per cent of starter as mentioned above is
preferable. The proper amount depends somewhat upon the
method employed in making the cheese. Under normal conditions,
however, 1 per cent of a starter is advised, even though it may be
necessary to ripen the milk to 0.20 or 0.22 per cent, calculated as
lactic acid, before the addition of rennet. A slow-acting starter may
be so inefficient as to cause total loss of the cheese, and for this reason
great care must be employed in keeping the starter in a vigorous
condition.

The use of a starter is to prevent gassy fermentation, but there
are times, especially in the spring and fall of the year, when the milk
has ripened so far that the introduction even of large quantities of
starter will prove fruitless, and for that reason the milk for making
Camembert must be carefully inspected.

THE ACIDITY OF MILK AT RENNETING.

At setting, the milk should have from 0.20 to 0.23 per cent acidity
as determined by one-tenth normal sodium hydroxid. French authori-
ties advise from 0.20 to 0.21 per cent acidity at this period.* There are
variations in the initial acidities of milk during the different periods
of the year. Highly acid milk is undesirable. The acid itself
may not be very objectionable, yet, because it increases the danger
of gassy fermentation subsequently, it is to be avoided. Whenever
a cheese is gassy it drains slowly, the whey is not clear, and more
difficulty 1s experienced in turning and ripening than with a normal
cheese. A few gas holes are not objectionable, but when the cheese
is spongy with gas, the flavor, texture, and appearance are often
so impaired that it is impossible to market the product.

In some instances where the cheese is rather dry and ripened at a
high temperature a few gas holes may develop later which were not
visible in the first few days after making. Success in the making
of Camembert cheese requires a rapid development of acidity,
which with the rennet hastens the removal of the whey and tends
to give the cheese a firm, elastic, healthy appearance.

TEMPERATURE.

The temperature at setting should be from 82° to 86° F., depend-
ing upon the acidity of the milk, quantity of rennet, and condition
of the milk. A high acid requires a low setting temperature,
whereas a low acid requires a high setting temperature. The tem-
perature is also somewhat dependent upon the method used. With
an unbroken curd a high setting temperature may be used. When
cheese is made by the French system, two or three separate settings
of milk are desirable and in this case low temperatures are used
with long setting periods. For example, the first milk is set at 85°.
F., and the last at from 82° to 83° F. This procedure favors a
soft curd for the last dipping, which aids in giving the cheese a neat
and attractive surface. If the last curd becomes dry and tough,
the upper surface of the cheese does not rapidly assume the same
evenness as the surface in contact with the drain mat.

’ Marcel Montéran. Monographie et Fabrication du Fromage de Camembert. Librairie
Agricole, Paris. Page 43.

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THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. te
SETTING THE MILK AND ADDING RENNET.

In case the curd is neither cut nor broken, it is advisable to set
the milk in several different batches in order that the curd may not
suffer from prolonged action of the rennet before the curd is dipped.
In this case about 50 per cent of the milk is set at first, and then
at later periods 30 and 20 per cent. The quantity of milk set at
each of these periods is dependent upon the rapidity of dipping.
Usually from half an hour to one hour is allowed to intervene be-
tween settings. When warmed to the desired point, the milk is run
into the setting cans or vats by gravity. Standard commercial ren-
net is added to the milk at the rate of 35 to 4 ounces per 1,000
pounds, or about 10 to 12 cubic centimeters per 100 pounds. As
the rennet sometimes varies in strength it is advisable to test its
strength from time to time.

CURDLING PERIOD. .

The curd is ready to dip in from one to two hours. When a film
of water collects upon the surface of the curd it is said to “ sweat,”
a condition which indicates that the curd is fit to dip. Some latitude
may be allowed as to the time of dipping without serious result.
At this period the curd is smooth and shows no broken surface, and
is but slightly drawn away from the setting cans. Often the setting
period is prolonged from two to three hours, or even longer in
the French process. The prevailing practice in this country is to
use a much shorter period; from one to one and one-half hours is
the usual limit. If large quantities of milk are handled it is ad-
visable to reduce the rennet in some of the cases or vats, for fear
the curd may become too hard and tough before dipping.

ARRANGEMENT OF HOOPS AND MATS.

During the curdling period the hoops, boards, and mats are placed
on the drain table. Drain boards for this purpose are of different
sizes; some are 15 inches square, while others are rectangular in
shape, 10 inches wide and 32 inches long. It is sufficient to wash
the forms and mats daily unless there is trouble with foreign molds;
in that case the equipment may be placed in a vat and boiled for
half an hour. Mats should be quickly dried when not in use; other-
wise foreign molds are more likely to develop on them and cause
trouble when they are again used. At the beginning of each season
all boards, mats, and forms should be carefully washed and heated
in boiling water, for at this period there is most trouble with molds.
After this treatment it is advisable to immerse the boards and forms
in Ee menaiin, which aids in preventing the curd from sticking to
the sides. Unless the curd is broken or cut, the sticking is quite
pronounced. Reparaffining is necessary whenever this film wears
off. As soon as the cheese is removed the forms are brushed with
warm water, rinsed, and quickly dried.

When used for the first few times the mats should be soaked in
hot water; otherwise cheese is often broken by sticking to them.
Where the boards and mats are 10 by 32 inches, 12 forms are placed
on each board. Some makers use only one form, while others use
a half form in addition to the regular form, which fits or slips over

8 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

the higher form and permits the cheese to be turned at an earlier
hour. The half form permits the cheese to spread somewhat and
aids thereby in giving it a uniform shape that more pores fits
the shipping boxes.

CUTTING THE CURD.

Cutting the curd, prior to dipping, by means of a special curd
knife that readily conforms to the setting can or vat, is practiced
in some factories with good results. This hastens the expulsion of
whey and thereby makes it possible to turn the cheese at an early
hour. When this system is followed the shape of the cheese is round
and symmetrical and there is very little unevenness. Cheese from
cut curd can be ripened at a higher temperature than would be prac-
ticable with cheese from unbroken curd. Often the cheese from cut
curd has the appearance of being made from milk with a low per-

centage of fat and the texture is drier and harder than that of cheese

Fic. 1.—Filling hoops with curd by means of a dipper.

from uncut curd; it also has a longer marketable period. Cutting
the curd prior to dipping hastens the expulsion of whey and appears
to check somewhat a too vigorous development of Camembert mold;
it also favors the growth of the reddish covering of microorganisms.

METHODS OF DIPPING.

There are three methods commonly employed in dipping the curd:
1. Dipping the curd by means us a long-handled dipper, breaking
it a little as possible. (See Fig. 1.)

2. Dipping the curd with a dipper and putting through a funnel

into the form, with considerable breaking.

3. Dipping the curd after the entire mass of curd has been cut by
means of a knife. Here the curd toughens somewhat in the whey
prior to the dipping.

Dipping the unbroken curd.—By means of a small-handled dipper
the curd is transferred to the forms with as little breaking as possible.

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THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 9

Two persons should empty a 200-pound can in 15 or 20 minutes.
When the cans are emptied slowly there is always a tendency for the
curd to be tough and broken before all the curd has been removed.
The can containing the curd is mounted on a truck which may be
wheeled from point to point without difficulty. The top of the can
should be on a level with the top of the forms. Usually two dipper-
fuls of the curd are put into each form until all are filled, and then
this process is repeated until all forms are filled. When this method
is followed it takes only about two-thirds of the curd to fill the
forms; the remainder is put into the forms as the first curd settles.
Three or four fillings are necessary. After a little practice a person
is able to estimate the time at which the curd is available for dipping
and to regulate the time of setting accordingly.

A description of the multiple filler (Fig. 2) is given on page 15
and further illustrated in Figure 6.

Fic. 2.—Filling the hoops, using a multiple filler, by means of which six forms are filled
at the same time. (See Fig. 6.)

It is essential that each cheese receive the same amount of curd;
otherwise some will be too large and others too small. When too
small the cheese dries out quickly, ripens abnormally, and does not
fit snugly in the wooden shipping box.

DRAINING.

The drainage should be conducted at a uniform temperature of
from 65° to 70° F., with the air somewhat moist. The cheese itself
aids materially in maintaining this condition of humidity. A rapid
development of acidity causes the curd to settle in the forms quickly.
By pushing the curd down along the sides of the forms the last
thing before leaving at night no great difficulty is experienced with
the curd adhering to the sides. When the curd is made on a large
enough scale to justify turning the cheese at night, this trouble is
largely obviated. If the curd is dipped in the morning, the higher
forms may be removed by night and the cheese turned. When this
procedure is followed the high forms are removed for washing, then

48434 ° —23—_2

10 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

a clean, dry mat is placed on the lower forms, followed by a board.
With one hand beneath, the position of the board is quickly reversed
and the mat pulled off. If there is any tendency toward sticking,
the end of the mat is turned back and pulled off as nearly parallel
with the rest of the mat as possible. Such a precaution reduces the
breaking of the surface to a minimum. At this period the cheese
is 14 to 13 inches in thickness, and if it has not been turned the same
day the upper surface will likely be somewhat dished. Several
turnings tend to make the cheese symmetrical. If all operations
have been carried out carefully, the cheese at the time of salting
should possess a characteristic elastic softness.

YIELD.

Camembert cheese should give a yield of 220 cheeses per 1,000
pounds of milk standardized to 3.5 or 3.6 per cent fat. The yield
will depend somewhat on the period of the year, the total solids, and
the size of package. Normally it requires about 2 quarts of milk to
make one cheese. When marketed each cheese is usually guaranteed
to weigh 8 ounces. Some factories, however, guarantee only 7
ounces. As a matter of fact, most of the cheeses on the market
weigh nearer 10 than 8 ounces, because the manufacturers wish to be
sure of full weight and a well-filled box. Some allowance should be
made for shrinkage when the cheeses are wrapped in foil, but when
they are reasonably dry this shrinkage is slight.

SALTING.

The day after making, the cheese is salted at a temperature of
from 65° to 70° F. with fine, dry salt. (Fig. 3.) The use of coarse
salt is not objectionable, provided one becomes accustomed to its
use so there is little danger of oversalting or undersalting. At this
time the cheese feels moist and may be slightly greasy, but the sur-
face should never have a crinkly appearance, which indicates too
much Oidium lactis. Such a condition is also manifested by a dis-
agreeable, offensive odor.

The salt is placed in a wooden box and two cheeses are salted at a
time. The cheese is rubbed gently with salt and then some of the salt
brushed away. It is essential that all parts of the cheese come in
contact with salt. Each time the cheese is handled its position is
reversed. This procedure not only tends to keep the surface dry but
aids in giving the cheese its proper shape. A few hours after salting
the cheeses with the boards supporting them are placed on suitable
trucks, which often carry 50 to 60 dozen cheeses at a time, and are
transferred to the curing rooms. The function of the salt is to estab-
lish a rind upon the surface, to dry the cheese, and favor the develop-
ment of the Camembert mold and slime organisms, and to hold in
check the putrefactive organisms. Undersalting may result in a
cheese with a more offensive odor than when the cheese has been
salted normally.

INOCULATION WITH MOLD.

Various methods are used in inoculating Camembert cheese with
mold. Some makers put the mold directly into the milk, others

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THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE, i 24 |

sprinkle the cheese with a water culture of mold, while others put the
mold into the salt. The disadvantage of putting mold into the milk

-- seems to be that all surfaces of the cheese do not get a good develop-

ment. Spraying the cheese with a water culture of the mold by
means of an atomizer is an easy and efficient way of inoculating the
cheese, as is also mixing some of the mold with salt. French makers
claim that it is not necessary to inoculate with the mold after it is
once established, for then the air and equipment have enough mold
spores to inoculate the cheese without other inoculations.

It is always advisable to inoculate everything in the way of equip-
ment and the rooms at the beginning of each season, or in places

Fic. 3.—Salting the cheese.

where the making operations have been suspended for a time. As
regards the best method of establishing the mold much depends upon
local conditions. Most manufacturers have found it advisable to
inoculate daily. This seems especially true when the curd is cut or
broken, for more trouble is experienced then in getting a quick and
proper development of mold.

Too vigorous a development of mold should always be avoided, yet
a fairly good growth is necessary to hold in check foreign molds and
to give the cheese its characteristic flavor and texture. Under nor-
mal conditions the reddish slime will spread over the cheese in the
course of 10 to 14 days, depending somewhat on the system of manu-
facture followed, temperature, and other conditions.

12 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
GROWING MOLD FOR INOCULATION.

Camembert mold may best be grown on hard, dry, water crackers,
rather than the common milk crackers. Fruit jars are filled about
one-third full of crackers and then covered with a screw-top cover
or plugged with cotton. Several of these jars are then placed in a
dry sterilizer for about 14 hours at a temperature of 150° C. By
means of a sterile platinum needle the mold spores are then trans-
ferred from a stock culture to a flask of sterile water. Thom advises
also the addition of 5 to 10 per cent of lactic or tartaric acid solution
to the water before sterilizing. After cooling the crackers are
moistened with the water containing the mold spores. The crackers
should not be made soggy, but all of them should be moistened by
rotating the jar about until all the water has been taken up.

Care must be taken not to contaminate the crackers with foreign
molds, for this is much more serious than any bacterial contamina-
tion. The jars are then set away at a temperature of 60° F. A thick
coat of white, cottonlike mold develops in the course of 10 days,
which, when aging, turns to a green-gray color. When these colored
spores develop it 1s an indication that the mold is ready to use. It is
advisable not to use the mold until it has all changed color, for fear
that some of the crackers may be contaminated with other molds,
and this may not be evident at first. It is always desirable to use
several extra jars, because under the best of conditions they some-
times become contaminated with foreign mold.

FACTORY EQUIPMENT.

The equipment necessary for a Camembert-cheese factory should
consist of the utensils common to creamery and cheese-factory work.
A room for receiving and weighing, apparatus for testing the fat of
milk, and steam for heating and sterilizing are all essential. A
separator is also necessary to standardize milk and remove the fat
from the whey. The sides of the room are best when cemented, for
this tends to reduce to a minimum the accumulation of dirt and dust.
The floors likewise should be made of cement with a gentle down-
ward slope to a trap or drain to permit daily flushing. Wire netting
of fine mesh to cover all windows is essential to guard against flies
and insects. Unless all rooms are protected against flies there is
danger that flies may lay eggs on the cheese and the eggs will hatch
out later into maggots. When these skipper flies are in evidence in
the draining room all cheese should be removed and the room
thoroughly steamed for 14 to 2 hours. When this method is followed
all windows, doors, and other openings should be closed as tightly
as possible. If it is impracticable to follow this procedure, fly
swatters should be used until the flies are entirely eliminated.

Cheeses that have been infected by flies should be held at a low
temperature, 50° F. if possible, for at a low temperature the eggs
either fail to develop or develop very slowly. It is very essential
that these precautions be carefully observed in warm weather, for
otherwise these pests will cause no end of trouble. When the cheese
becomes infected it should be scraped and then washed with salt
water. Each room should be well lighted, for most of the curing
rooms are either below ground or are completely inclosed.

©

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE, 13
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT FOR THE “ MAKE” ROOM.

Aside from the general equipment for the factory, special equip-
ment is needed for making Camembert cheese, as follows:

Tables—Table space enough should be available to accommodate
the cheese from each day’s make. Such tables are usually made of
wood, but stone is better, although much more expensive. Each
table should be at least 34 feet wide. If made of wood the edges
should be raised slightly to retain the whey escaping from the cheese;
with stone a gutter around the edge conveys the whey to a desired
point. The whey is then collected in a vat, where later it may be
separated and disposed of to the best advantage.

Aisles.—The space between two drain tables should be wide enough
to permit the passage of a truck with ease. Ordinarily the aisles are
at least 42 inches wide.

Dippers.—Dippers should be provided with a bowl which easily
slips into the forms. They may be made by a tinsmith. The bowl
should always be more flat than round. Large dippers or scoops are
used when the curd is cut or broken.

Curdling cans or vats——Curdling cans, holding about 200 pounds
of milk, are used in many American and most French factories.
These cans are about 22 inches wide at the top, 12 inches wide at the
bottom, and 26 inches high. Cans of this size are desirable in order
that each batch of milk may be handled rapidly. The shape of the
cans favors dipping without breaking the curd, as the bulk of the
milk is nearer to the forms. Curdling cans may be made of 6X tin,

Fic. 4.—Truck for transferring cheese from one room to another.

with steel hoops at the bottom, riveted, tip wired, provided with
handles, and with vertical seams at the bottom soldered.

Small, round-bottom vats, holding approximately 2,000 pounds of
milk, are used sometimes as setting vats,

14 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

Trucks.—Curdling cans rest upon trucks which are provided with
base rollers that move in any direction. (Fig. 4.) Cleats or an iron
rim are placed in the top of each of these trucks so that the cans may
be held in place.

Drain mats—Some form of reed matting is desirable in order to
facilitate rapid draining. Substitutes made of cloths have not
proved very satisfactory. Formerly the mats were all imported
from France, but now they may be purchased in this country. They
consist of rattan or Chinese reeds, about one-eighth of an inch in
diameter, bound together by threads. The size of the mats depends
upon the size of the boards used for draining; the most common
sizes are 10 by 32 inches and 16 by 16 inches. The need of having
numerous small mats instead of one large mat is obvious. With
the use of the small mats there is much less danger of breaking
the surface of the curd and several cheeses may be turned at once.

Hoops or forms——The number of hoops (often referred to as
forms) should be the same as the number of cheeses to be made each
day, with a few extra, for they occasionally become bent or otherwise
unsatisfactory for use. If 500 cheeses are made it is advisable to
have 600 hoops. Most manufacturers use a hoop 4$ inches in diam-
eter and 54 inches high. The diameter may vary one-eighth of
an inch from these figures. Each hoop contains three rows of holes
one-twelfth of an inch in diameter and 2 inches apart in the row.
The edges of each hoop are turned and soldered. It has been found
impracticable to use higher hoops because they are top-heavy and
easily overturned.

Half hoops are used in some factories. Such hoops are 24 inches
high and 42 inches in diameter, or just large enough to slip over
the higher hoops easily. Each hoop contains two rows of holes
one-twelfth of an inch in diameter and 14 inches apart. The edges
of these hoops also are turned and soldered.

Drains and curing boards—Smooth, 1-inch yellow-pine boards
10 by 382 inches have proved satisfactory for both draining and
ripening the cheese. The length of the boards may be longer or
shorter to meet local conditions. These boards are wide enough to
carry two rows of cheese and smooth enough to avoid the tendency
of the cheese to stick. Ordinarily the drain boards are covered
with mats which are just a little longer and wider than the boards.
In the plant at Grove City, Pa., these boards serve the double pur-
pose of curing and ripening both Camembert and Roquefort cheese.

In some factories corrugated boards are used without mats. These
boards are 154 inches square. The grooves are about one-sixteenth
of an inch wide and of the same depth and about one-eighth of an
inch apart. These boards will hold nine cheeses, and while some-
what more expensive and not so easy to clean as the plain boards,
yet with their use no drain mats are required. |

Cane bottoms; open boards.—Because of the difficulty in obtaining
“clayons” or mats, which were formerly used in order to favor
development of the Camembert mold, cane bottoms or open boards
have been tried and found to be satisfactory substitutes. The cane
bottoms consist of square framework 154 inches square, made of 4 by
1 inch material. The corners of the framework are dovetailed to-
gether and covered with canework, as shown in Figure 5. Provided

|

-and 13 inches wide

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 15°

there is not too great a development of the Camembert mold, the cane
bottoms may serve throughout the entire curing process. Open
boards are used for the same purpose, and consist of the following
material: Eleven 2 by 1 inch pine strips 32 inches long and two strips

of the same material 10 inches long, the latter serving for end pieces.

The strips are joined together and their edges serve as a base upon
which 12 or 14 cheeses may rest.

Cheese jiller—A wiultiple filler, which saves much time, is con-
structed so that six or nine forms can be filled at the same time.
The curd is dipped without being cut by means of a large dipper
and poured into the filler, where it finds its way to the various forms
through the separate compartments of the filler. (Fig. 6.)

The filler is 15 inches square, with sides 14 inches high extending
around the outer edge of the filler. The sections or compartments are
5 inches square and
have a 2-inch slope
from the middle
edge and a 3-inch
slope from the cor-
ner of the compart-
ment. Both these
slopes slant toward
the middle, where a
hole 24 inches in di-
ameter, with a spout
of same diameter
and 14 inches long,
is located so the
scurd will run into
empty forms. On
the underside, on
both sides of the
filler, are strips of
tin 12 inches long

that allow the filler

¥ to rest evenly on Fic. 5.—Cane bottom for ripening cheese.

the forms, so that it

does not slide, thus preventing any spilling of the curd. This filler
may be made of either galvanized iron or tin and be designed to fill
any number of forms.

CONSTRUCTION AND EQUIPMENT OF RIPENING ROOMS.

It is advisable to have well-insulated curing rooms and special
conditioning apparatus in order to regulate carefully the curing ~
conditions for this cheese. In the plant at Grove City, Pa., the
sides, top, and bottom of the curing rooms have been insulated with
4 inches of cork laid in hot asphalt and covered with Portland-cement
plaster. By the use of such equipment it is possible to minimize
sudden changes of temperature and make curing conditions regular
and uniform. In many factories the cheese is ripened in cellars
entirely below ground. Other factories patterned after the French

16 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

factories are entirely above ground. In either case means are pro-
vided for controlling the ventilation. With the factories above
ground there are numerous openings (small windows) at different
heights so that the circulation of air may be regulated. The direct
rays of the sun should never fall upon the cheese for fear of injury
to the mold. When this happens the mold will often take on an
abnormal pink or reddish color. The only feasible way known to
bring about a continuous drying is by means of a fan, such as is
described in connection with the conditioning apparatus. There is
little use of considering the relative humidity of a curing room with-
out taking into consideration the rate of air change as well.
Conditioning equipment.—Several years’ experience has proved the
inefliciency of the ordinary means of controlling humidity for mold-

Fic. 6.—Multiple filler for putting curd into hoops. Also mat and hoops.

ripened cheeses. With the use of proper refrigeration no great diffi-
culty has been experienced in adjusting the temperature to the desired
point. To hold the temperature at a low point and still maintain
a high humidity is more difficult. Cooling Camembert curing
rooms by means of direct expansion or brine coils has been unsuc-
cessful, With such a system moisture is continually removed from
the cheese and it becomes too dry. Cheese handled in this manner
ripens slowly, surface molds fail to develop properly, and the flavor
and texture are impaired.

Aw conditioning.—Air conditioning has been used in other indus-
tries to regulate artificially the atmospheric conditions of a room or
building and to maintain and regulate certain desirable and definite
conditions of humidity, temperature, and air purity. So far as is

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. £7:

shown by literature, no one has adopted this method of conditioning
the air for curing cheese. It is desirable not only to regulate cheese-
curing conditions but to prevent the mold from one curing room
mixing with the air of another. There is little danger of such a
condition causing trouble with Roquefort cheese. However, it is
quite possible that the air from a Roquefort room might contaminate
the air in a Camembert room. |

The system for regulating temperature and humidity used in our
curing rooms includes an air washer with a fan for eirculating the
cooled air in a closed circuit through the rooms. The air washer
consists of a series of sprays through which the air is drawn on its
return from the room. The washer is so arranged that water
from the sprays flows over direct-expansion ammonia coils which
cool it to about 32° F. Below the coils is a storage tank from which
the water is forced through the sprays by a rotary pump. Between
the sprays and the fan is a series of baffle plates to remove the en-
trained water. Insulated ducts carry air into the curing rooms
through the ceilings. Two inlets are provided for a room 11 by 19
feet. The temperature of the room is held constant by dampers on
the inlets operated by compressed-air motors. These motors are
regulated by a thermostat. Four outlets in the ceiling of each room
connect with a common-duct which returns the air to the washer.

The system insures a thorough circulation of air within the room.
By this arrangement the air leaves the air washer at a temperature
of from 40° to 45° F. and in a saturated condition. As it mixes
with the warmer air of the curing room the relative humidity drops,
and it is necessary in some cases to bring it to the desired point by
introducing additional moisture. This is done very satisfactorily
by throwing a jet of steam into the current of air as it comes into
the room. This steam is carried under very low pressure and may be
regulated by hand so that the relative humidity is held within nar-
row limits. The steam is at once absorbed by the air, and while it
adds a small amount of heat, it has given very satisfactory results.

Equipment of ripening rooms.—For ripening Camembert cheese
an open, light framework is essential to support the curing boards.
This framework consists of a series of 2 by 2 or 2 by 4 inch posts
joined at the floor and ceiling. Crossbars of 2 by 2 inch material
from 6 to 8 inches apart connect these posts. In large factories there
are numerous aisles 5 or 6 feet wide so that all the cheese is in reach

from two sides.
DRYING MACHINE.

' A great many of the larger Camembert plants use a machine for
drying the mats. One type of dryer has steam coils along the sides
and near the bottom. ‘The sides, top, and bottom are of pine wood,
lined with lapped block tin and a layer of asbestos between wood
and tin to retain the heat. Attached to an iron frame is a track
and countershaft on which is a conveyer that runs on a single track,
and is used for handling the mats. The hooks, hanger, and track
are rustproof and do not discolor the mats nor the cloths which often
are dried this way.

The dryer for drying Camembert mats at the Grove City creamery
is one that was designed to suit the special needs of the plant, and is

18 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

used in connection with drying Swiss-cheese cloths and Roquefort-
cheese mats. However, this dryer can be designed to suit the require-
ments of a factory of any size and it can be erected at a very moderate
expense.

The dryer at Grove City is 10 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 3 feet
high. At the front is a hole 17} inches in diameter, just large enough
for an electric fan to fit snugly into it so that the hot air which
comes from four rows of 1-inch steam piping placed perpendicularly
in front of the hole can be fanned among the racks where the wet
mats are hung on wooden rods to dry. The racks are 34 feet long
and open from the top by means of hinged covers. The front of the
dryer where the fan and steam pipes are located is lined with galvan-
ized iron to keep the hot air in. The rest of the dryer, except frame
and covers of drawers, which are made of wood, is wall board.

THE RIPENING OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE.

In most factories the cheese is made on the ground floor and then
carried to a second-floor room or the basement for ripening. The
manner in which the cheese is made is probably as important a factor
in regulating the proper surface vegetation as the curing conditions
themselves. When the cheese is made by the uncut-curd method
more difficulty is experienced in removing the excess moisture from
the cheese, and ample means must be provided for ventilation. If
the curd is broken, less precaution is necessary in drying, but more
difficulty is experienced in developing the needful Camembert mold.

Sometimes the cheese is held for one day in the drain room after
salting; at other times it is salted and taken to the curing room at
_ once on the day after making. If salted in the morning, it is allowed
to remain at room temperature for a few hours and is then carried
to the curing room. Because of the repeated turnings (Fig. 7), a
considerable proportion of the moisture should have escaped from
the cheese, and it should have acquired considerable firmness due to
the salting. At this time the cheese should appear somewhat moist,
although the condition should not have developed to such a point that
the cheese is greasy or ill smelling. It should have an acid but
clean odor.

After salting, the cheese remains on open ripening boards. If no
difficulty is experienced from an overdevelopment of mold, it may
be allowed to remain on the cane bottoms throughout the entire curing
process. With the cane bottoms it is not necessary to turn the cheese
so often as with the smooth boards, for there is less danger of break-
ing the surface.

OIDIUM RIPENING.

Oidium lactis is a type of organism that may spread over the
surface in 24 hours and is the one organism more responsible than
any other for giving the Camembert cheese a putrefactive tendency.
When the rooms are very warm, 75° F. or over, and the humidity 1s
high and there is little or no ventilation, this organism develops very

rapidly, and may spread itself over the cheese before salting. Organ-
isms of this type are nearly always present in milk products, and in
limited quantity may not be harmful, but a vigorous development of
this growth is to be avoided. If the milk is old, or if the cheese

&))

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 19

drains abnormally slowly, there is more likely to be a fermentation
of this character. At other times this fermentation may not appear
until several days later. This condition, however, is more rare.
When great difficulty is experienced in handling this organism, the
forms, mats, and drain boards should be held in water as nearly as
possible to the boiling point for an hour, and every possible precau-
tion should be taken to keep the drain tables and other equipment
scrupulously clean.

|

Fic, 7.—Turning cheese in curing room. Humidifying apparatus attached to ceiling.

;

Salt checks the development of oidium and renders its injurious
effects less obnoxious. For this reason the average Camembert cheese
should contain about 24 per cent of salt when ripened. The cheese
should always be salted before this organism makes too much head-
way or the gelatinous surface growth will interfere with the proper
absorption of salt. Such a fermentation develops a soft, irregular
rind which breaks and peels easily and unless great care is taken
the cheese may be a total loss. A liquid layer quickly develops
beneath the coat of this organism and as a consequence the Camem-
bert mold makes less development than it would without this soften-
ing effect.

20 BULLETIN 1171, U. §. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

At times it is almost impossible to grow the Camembert mold and
the surface of the cheese takes on a reddish color, not at all desirable
at this stage of the ripening. While it is true that the cheese may
be ripened beneath despite the action of this organism, the appear-
ance of the cheese is not attractive, the flavor is impaired, and a
putrefactive odor is in evidence. When the oidium fermentation
supersedes the normal Camembert fermentation it is desirable to keep
the air in as dry a condition as possible and thereby encourage the
development of the Camembert mold. If the oidium has not made
much headway the Camembert mold can be induced to grow and
eventually cover the cheese and thereby reduce the injurious effects.
A slight growth of oidium, provided it does not go too far, is de-
sirable in preventing a thick, feltlike growth of the Camembert mold.

CAMEMBERT-MOLD RIPENING.

In five or six days after inoculation, depending on the temperature,
the cheese shows slightly brown spots of Camembert mold. After it
is put in the curing room this is followed by small white patches of
mycelium of the Camembert mold. Unless too great a development
of the Oidium lactis mold is present the network of mycelium spreads
rapidly over the surface of the cheese and in the course of 10 to 14
days the presence of colored spots caused by the Camembert spores
is noticeable. The coloring appears to develop more rapidly on the
edge than on the surface of the cheese, due, possibly, to the mold
being held somewhat in check by repeated turnings. If the cheese
is kept on open boards it is removed and placed on smooth ripening
boards. Prior to this the cheese should be turned daily in order
that the strips of wood may not cut into the cheese and that the
surface of the cheese may not be broken by sticking. When the
Camembert mold is once established it develops with surprising
rapidity, especially with the unbroken curd, and efforts must be made
to check too luxuriant a growth.

*““FERMENTS ROUGES,” OR RED GROWTH.

A red or yellow color on the surface of the Camembert cheese,
due to bacteria, yeasts, and mycoderma, is usually taken as an indi-
cation of good quality. While there may be some doubt as to
whether or not the surface organisms actually hasten the ripening
of the cheese or improve its flavor, it is desirable that the growth
should gradually spread itself over the Camembert mold so that
when marketed there should be only spots showing the Camembert
mold. At the time the red slime begins to develop the growth of
the Camembert mold gradually ceases, and the reaction of the sur-
face tends to be alkaline instead of acid. The reddish growth is at
least a good indication that the cheese has been ripened under proper
curing conditions. This slimy growth not only tends to check too
luxuriant a growth of the mold, but it is said to form a protective
coating which prevents access of air to the cheese and thereby checks
the likelihood of flavors and odors of rancidity.

Mazé, of the Pasteur Institute, advises inoculating the curing
equipment with these surface organisms. Our experience has led
us to believe that it is advisable to inoculate with these organisms
at least at the beginning of the Camembert season or in new curing

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8)

.)

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 21

rooms. Should these organisms fail to develop after several months,,
it is advisable to inoculate again. A room which contains a large
number of cheeses with a high humidity and little ventilation seems
to favor the development of this surface fermentation. In factories
where the cheese is made continuously the year round no great.
difficulty is experienced in developing surface slime.

In inoculating with these organisms skim milk is heated to the
boiling point for half an hour and then cooled to 70° F. and the
culture added. After it has stood for two days the mats, boards,
and cane bottoms are thoroughly sprinkled with the liquid culture.

FOREIGN MOLDS.

Foreign mold may contaminate Camembert cheese and cause it
to be sold at a reduced price. Yeast and bacteria may be present.
in large numbers, but seldom if ever do these organisms exert any
very harmful influence upon the cheese. Green molds, sometimes
the Roquefort mold (Penicillium roquefortz), become numerous in
factories and give the cheese a very unattractive appearance. Often
these foreign molds impart unpleasant and bitter flavors to the
cheese. According to Thom, the most troublesome of these molds
are Penicillium brevicaule and two closely related varieties, which
give off a strong ammoniacal odor. If allowed to grow unrestricted
and with proper curing conditions the Camembert mold will grad-
ually crowd out the obnoxious molds.

Even under the best conditions foreign molds are always present,
and they can be held in check only by scrupulous care in keeping
equipment clean and regulating the curing conditions. The greatest
trouble with foreign molds is experienced in the beginning of the
season, when factories are just beginning to operate. When the
cheese is made continuously this difficulty is seldom experienced.
Before the start in each season it is advisable to clean and wash up
all curing rooms, walls, and equipment and, wherever possible, to
steam out the curing rooms for a few hours. A1Il equipment possible
should be boiled in water an hour or put into a sterilizer and steril-

ized and then quickly dried.

» The mold spores are very light and may be carried by dust parti-
cles to the cheese, so the curing rooms should be kept moist to reduce
the chance of contamination to a minimum. The use of chemicals,
formaldehyde gas, for example, has not been entirely successful as
a means of eliminating foreign molds, although it aids in reducing
them. No practical measures have been evolved which will eliminate
them completely in the draining and curing rooms. Where they
have become established in factories the best thing to do is to sterilize
the equipment, keep the curing rooms moist, and reinoculate with
Camembert mold by spraying a week or so before beginning the.
manufacture of cheese. This may be done with an atomizer. All
parts of equipment that come in contact with the cheese, as well as
the walls, doors, and windows, should be sprayed.

CONDITIONS OF RIPENING.

The ripening of Camembert cheese should be conducted in a man-
ner to favor the proper flavor, texture, and appearance. As the

“e!

22 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

cheese comes from the salting process, it should have a certain firm-
ness, and in the course of a few days should take on a greasy appear-
ance and emit a yeasty odor. The curd should taste acid, and Marre*
says it should give off an odor as of well-ripened apples. The mold
develops and is followed by red slime. The cheese is then dried to
a point suitable for marketing and boxed, and by this time should
have ripened to a depth of about one-fourth inch. When the cheese
is boxed in from 12 to 15 days not so much attention is required in
controlling the curing conditions. Provided the factory is properly
constructed for curing this cheese, no great difficulty should be expe-
rienced in handling it. In cases where the curing rooms used are not
well controlled a clear understanding of the factors concerned in the
curing of the cheese is more essential. There are three factors which
affect the manufacture of an excellent Camembert cheese—the tem-
perature, the relative humidity, and the ventilation.

Temperature—Camembert cheese should be ripened at a tem-
perature of from 52 to 58° F. In factories where refrigeration is
not available and the curing conditions are more or less “subject to
climatic conditions, the difficulties of making this cheese are greatly
increased. Under such circumstances the cheese is made only in the
colder months, and the temperature is brought to the desired point
by means of steam pipes. In general, the temperature should be
higher in the initial stages of curing than later, when the curing or-
ganisms have reached their maximum development. All efforts in
the initial stages of ripening are directed toward the establishment
of a healthy growth of the Camembert mold. This can best be ac-
complished | at a temperature of 55 to 58° F. As the curing progresses
a lower temperature, from 50 to 52° F. is desirable. This tempera-
ture should be maintained after the cheese is placed in boxes and
crated.

Relative humidity and ventilation—The relative humidity and
ventilation are varied according to the moisture content of the cheese
and the stage of ripening. Formerly much of the Camembert cheese
made in this country was ripened in rooms which depended upon
open windows to dry out the cheese to a point suitable for shipment.
With the uncut curd the mold appears to develop more rapidly than
with the cut curd, and there is always a_tendency for the mold to
to form a heavy coating; consequently much more attention must be
given to removing the excess whey from the cheese. Where refrig-
eration 1s lacking and where the curing rooms have not been con-
structed for the purpose of handling Camembert cheese, the factors
of relative humidity and ventilation are of great importance.

Most of the modern equipment is provided with refrigerating ma-
chinery and special curing rooms, and as a consequence ‘the ripening

conditions are far less difficult to regulate. When made on a large
scale, the cheese itself aids materially i in maintaining a high humidity,
and little difficulty is experienced in this respect. “This is especially
true when the cheese is cured in the basement of the building. A
certain amount of ventilation is desirable, yet under certain con-
ditions this may be so great as to cause the cheese to be hard and
dry. The French recommend the use of several rooms for curing the

4Francis Marre. Le Probleme Juridique de Camembert. Editions Scientifiques Fran-
Gaises, Paris, 1915. Page 28.

ee

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 23.

cheese, with varying degrees of moisture and ventilation. In the
United States one large room or at least two smaller rooms are em-
ployed in handling the cheese. In factories where refrigeration is
not available considerable difficulty is experienced in handling the
cheese, and it ean be made in a satisfactory manner only in the fall,
winter, and spring months.

With the uncut-curd method used in France the conditions shown
in Table 4 are advised by Montéran® for handling the curd. Where
the cheese is ripened under these conditions several rooms are used.

TaslLe 4.—Physical conditions for making Camembert cheese from uncut curd
(according to Montéran).

Period. abe og Humidity. Ventilation. Mold development.
o
First period, 4 days.... 59 | Considerable..| Very little..... pine of penicillium in an acid
medium.
Second period, 10 to 12| 54.4-57.2 | Moderate......| Moderate......| Development of penicillium in acid
days. medium. ,
Third period, 2 to 4 54.4 | Low..........| Very active...| Termination ofthe penicillium; the

acid has disappeared, the me-
dium is alkaline, and the cheese
becomes firm.

.days

After the cheese is fully cured a low temperature, of from 50° to
52° F., is advised until the cheese is consumed. A high relative
humidity possibly would be 88 to 92 per cent, a moderate humidity
85 to 88 per cent, and a low humidity below 85 per cent.

Where Camembert cheese is made under the French system it has
a waxy texture, and the imported cheeses are most often ripened all
the way through. The cheese usually has an excellent flavor, tex-
ture, and surface appearance. The average domestic cheese is ripened
possibly two to three weeks in the factory and is then boxed. When
the rapid system is used in curing, the cheese suffers somewhat in
texture and flavor, and usually does not have the keeping quality
that it has when the curd is ripened more slowly and dried more
thoroughly.

WRAPPING AND BOXING.

In many factories the cheese is removed from the ripening boards
in less than two weeks and wrapped in parchment paper, or parch-
ment paper and foil, and then placed in small, round boxes. Alumi-
num foil has been found as satisfactory as tin foil, although some
makers prefer to use tin foil because of its superior strength. Ordi-
narily aluminum foil may be purchased more cheaply than tin foil.
By placing the cheese in boxes its shape is maintained and any in-
equalities that remain from the draining process are removed. Parch-
ment paper, while cheaper than the foil, permits the cheese to dry out
slightly, and if the cheese is not in good condition the paper may be
broken and result in a very unattractive appearance. More com-
plaints have been received where parchment paper has been used in-
stead of foil, because the cheese is too dry and fails to ripen normally.
One advantage in the use of parchment paper is that the extent of

5 Marcel Montéran. Monographie et Fabrication du Fromage de Camembert. Librairie Agricole, Paris,
1908. Page 67.

24 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

red and blue mold development can readily be determined by looking
through the paper without unwrapping it, as would be necessary
with tin foil. Most of the cheese on the market is wrapped in both
parchment paper and foil.

After wrapping, the temperature of the cheese often rises several
degrees, due to a more rapid fermentation than when it is exposed to
the free air. At time of boxing the cheese should be dry enough so
that no whey will escape later. Wrapping the cheese too wet may

Iie. 8.—Wrapping and crating the cheese.

cause a strong, biting flavor and give the surface a very undesirable
appearance.

By the time the cheese is wrapped the Camembert mold has prac-
tically ceased to develop, while the slimy coat spreads itself over
the surface. In most cases the major part of the ripening process
occurs after the cheese is boxed. The drier the cheese the higher
the temperature at which it may be ripened. Very hard, dry cheese
may be ripened in foil and boxed, whereas considerable difficulty
would be experienced in ripening such cheese without that treatment.
The small, round boxes are then placed in light crates, 5 dozen to the
crate, and each crate nailed and wired.

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. 25
COST OF MANUFACTURE.

Figures given below on the cost of manufacture, as estimated in
1922, are based upon experience in the work on a commercial scale.
Milk standardized to 3.5 to 3.6 per cent fat and valued at $2.25 per
100 pounds is used in these calculations. The daily costs of water,
fuel, electricity, repairs, and depreciation are an engineer’s estimate.
The yield of cheese is figured at 220 cheeses per 1,000 pounds of
milk. The cheese is assumed to be sold in the customary 5-dozen
erates. The labor is figured on the basis of cost of labor together
with a proportionate cost for supervision. The costs of aluminum
foil, boxes, and crates as given are actual costs when these items‘are
purchased in quantities.

These estimates are based on the assumption that curing rooms run
at maximum capacity and do not take into consideration losses
which may occur in marketing a perishable product. The figures
represent a minimum cost, dependent upon a maximum scale of
manufacture. When the cheese is not made on a large scale the
charge for many items of expense is increased. Such a condition
may be responsible for a variation of several cents per cheese. The
price of milk, overhead charge, and size and style of package may
cause considerable variation in the cost of making one Camembert
cheese. 3

TABLE 5.—Estimated cost (in 1922) of making one Camembert cheese on a
; commercial scale.

Item. Cost.
eee ge Fe SSE his es os ae a ed ce on 32 ena inal aeeedlli $0. 1023
SES a ee 0003
8 0 DE TELE a ES Ss i a peg RU re eee ee ee ee 0007
(0 OD D2 DLT LET £2 oS So Se a = a ae ee 0197
a nn ge a rt we oe een 0077
ODS SEE O70 Se bs Se Se SE ee ee ey ee . 0065
(bo eee -seeb et 2 EE ee ee ere ee ae . 0200
EGS SES CLD D BEER EC ES SS Seg SS Se ele eae ee Bee ae Spe eee ae ee a ee ee See . 0027
a esse SF nS epee Loe aco wb isin eco llk nner h& owen las seks venous . 0033
I ys Ss eS oe es Sao enw een tbh cd aeceeesdee das cee nercecseceee . 0033
2 DT EL Se a ee a as Se ee - 0101
| Interest on money invested in building, equipment, insurance, taxes, repairs, and depreciation. . 0075
UL. ete Ue Se ae ee ee ee $0. 1841

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL PRICES.

Both wholesale and retail prices of Camembert cheese have
advanced materially since the war period. Little of this product
was imported during the war. In November, 1922, this cheese
was selling wholesale at about $3.25 to $3.75 a dozen. Since the
World War, the price of domestic Camembert has nearly doubled
and the demand has constantly increased. Good Camembert retails
at from 35 to 50 cents a cheese. The price does not appear to
fluctuate so readily as that of many varieties of soft cheese.

The variation in price of Camembert cheese from 1900 to 1922 is
indicated in Table 6. Records were not always available for
12 months in the year. After 1916 no quotations were available for
foreign cheese up to the beginning of 1923. These figures were
taken from a New York trade journal, and give the wholesale

26 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

price per cheese at New York. As practically all importations
come through that port and as it is the chief distributing point. 'these
quotations are assumed to show the state of the market.

TABLE 6.—Average annual wholesale price of Camembert cheese (half-pound
package) in_the United States, 1900 to 1922, inclusive.

| |

Imported) Domestic | Imported! Domestic | smported| Domestic
Year. Camem- | Camem- | Year. Camem- | Camem- Year. Camem- | Camem-

bert. bert. bert. bert. bert. bert.

Cents Cents Cents Cents Cents Cents
1002 en 2058) i| steps aa WOO Ss 2 £2 es eee 1916 S 21.6
1902382 2: 21565) See ae 1909 Sez 22 SSS DONS see wow ae U2 A ae Ney Me a 0
1902 F326. 2a 212 eee 1OLOA ee 20.8 18°33} LOLS Ssaes oe eas eee 31.4
O03 Benes 2 PASO S| sei le 10 NS tee 2259 L7G AQIS te ae ae ee 32.5
1904s 52 DIGS: 2a VOM x 21.6 Tels 19205 6 es ole ee oa 33.3
MOOD areas ce2 >] FLO} || Raeoee bae Sias 1913... 21.3 1656) 192i ale ee 33.3
£OOG Fs, 28s DIAGE| toe 1914 26 LSS NW O223 25 se a eee ee a 31.4

TOOT 3 OS 205 Drie ates 1935 an 26.0 19.7

SOME ECONOMIC FACTORS.

As a matter of general policy it is often advisable to establish a
cheese factory in conjunction with the manufacture of other dairy
products. Having another product, butter for example, for which
there is generally a good market the year round, makes it possible
for a factory to utilize the milk to the best advantage throughout
the year. In small plants, especially where refrigeration equipment.
is not available, the making of Camembert cheese is difficult during
the summer months; consequently there is a supply of milk during
certain periods of the year that can not always be used to advantage.

The chart, Figure 9, shows the production of Camembert cheese
at the Grove City (Pa.) creamery during the season 1920-21. The
curve shows that the production is at its apex during December,
January, and February, and has a tendency to decline during March
and still more in April. When warmer weather comes the manu-
facturing 1s usually suspended because of difficulties in shipping
and trouble due to flies.

The necessity of good shipping facilities can not be too thoroughly
emphasized. It is always advisable to ship by express rather than
by freight, for the latter offers too many uncertainties. It is ad-
visable also to ship by the most direct means. Whether the matter
is considered from the standpoint of preventing overripeness or
from that of having the cheese reach the consumer in the most at-
tractive condition, when cheese is too long on thé road the market-
able period for the wholesaler and the retailer is shortened.

The wholesale price of domestic Camembert cheese in 1920 to 1921
was the highest on record. When prices were lower American manu-
facturers were unable to compete in either quality or price with
the cheese sent from Europe. The shutting off of practically all
imported cheese, together with prevailing high prices, enabled
American manufacturers to gain the necessary experience in per-
fecting this kind of cheese. The quality of our domestic cheese has
improved so much in the last few years that it will probably be ~
much more difficult for the foreign cheese to become reestablished
in American markets. The average wholesale price of the im-

THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. paid

ported cheese for five years before the war was 12.8 cents per cheese.
This price, plus the freight and duty charges, would make the cost
about 154 cents f. 0. b. New York.

Losses occur frequently in the manufacture and marketing of
Camembert cheese. Under the best of conditions losses may occur
through overripeness, mold contamination, or injury in transit.
With proper curing conditions and adequate marketing facilities
these losses should be reduced to less than 3 per cent. The fact
that the cheese is ex-
tremely perishable is
partially offset by
the shortness of in- ‘18,000
vestment period, for
the cheese is seldom
held at the factory 16,000
for even so long as a
month before ship-

20,000

ment. /4,000
MAKING CAMEMBERT
ON THE FARM. eae

Little if any Ca-
membert cheese is
made on farms, yet
this is a common
practice in France.
Probably there are
many who, if they
would take the neces-
sary pains and care,
could develop a fairly
satisfactory product
on the average farm

without a great ex-
_ penditure in the way
eee re tte ? Wot. DEC. JAN. FEB. WAR APRIL

possibility exists of ate eee ee ay aes
° % TEs IG. 9.—Typical seasonal production of Camembert cheese
making cheese suit- at the Grove City (Pa.) creamery (1920-1921).

10,000

NWUMBER OF CHEESES MADE

able not only for

home consumption but for local trade as well. Where the cheese is
made for local trade it is advisable to use the cut or broken-curd
process, and to pack in the regular boxes and foil, and in general
to handle the cheese in the same manner that it is handled in the
factory. It is believed that a cellar, refrigerating box, or milk
house could be utilized for making this cheese. When it is made
in a small way there is, of course, more difficulty with foreign
molds, also more difficulty in developing red.slime, and the mold
is more likely to be too thick; nevertheless it is believed that a
cheese can be developed with as good flavor and texture as that made
in factories. It must be remembered that many people are not
familiar with this kind of cheese, and where it is made to sell, a local
trade can be built up only gradually.

28 BULLETIN 1171, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

SUMMARY.

In making Camembert cheese, fresh, clean milk is standardized to
3.) or 3.6 per cent fat.

From 1 to 2 per cent of a freshly made and vigorous starter is
added, and the milk is allowed to ripen until it has an acidity of
0.20 to 0.23 per cent calculated as lactic acid.

The milk is then warmed to a temperature of 84 to 86° F., and
rennet is added at the rate of 3 or 4 ounces per 1,000 pounds of milk
(10 to 12 cubic centimeters per 100 pounds of milk).

The milk is allowed to stand and curdle for 1 to 14 hours or longer,
and the curd is then dipped into the forms by means of a long-
handled dipper or special scoop. If the curd is cut prior to dipping,
each form filled with cheese may be turned four or five hours later.
If the curd is uncut a longer period is required.

Each hoop is then filled with approximately 2 quarts of the curd,
which is allowed to drain at a temperature of 65° F. and a relative
humidity of 85 to 90 per cent.

The day after making, the cheese is salted and taken to the curing
rooms.

The cheese is inoculated with the mold culture either by mixing
the culture with salt or by spraying it on the cheese just before tak-
ing to the curing room.

The cheese is ripened at a temperature of 52 to 58° F. and with a
relative humidity of 85 to 90 per cent, depending somewhat upon the
rate of ventilation in the curing room.

The cheese is ready to wrap when the mold is well established and
the cheese contains from 50 to 54 per cent moisture. This requires
from two to three weeks, depending upon the curing conditions and
methods employed in manufacturing.

Each cheese is wrapped in tin foil or aluminum foil, to which
parchment paper is attached, or in parchment paper alone, placed in
flat half-pound boxes, and packed in crates of 5 dozen each.

There should be a yield of about 220 cheeses per 1,000 pounds of
milk standardized to 3.5 or 3.6 per cent fat.

Not considering losses in handling, it is estimated that it costs
18.41 cents to manufacture each cheese on a commercial scale, allow-
ing 10.23 cents per cheese for cost of milk and 1.97 cents for labor.

The wholesale price of Camembert cheese is from $3.25 to $3.50 a
dozen. Each cheese retails at from 35 to 50 cents.

Camembert cheese is made mostly in the fall, winter, and spring
months. The greatest demand for the cheese is in January and
February.

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AT

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COPY FOR PROFIT.—PUB. RES. 57, APPROVED MAY 11, 1922

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