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FOR THE

- SOUTHERN STATES

" W, RB. MASSEY

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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.

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NAGUVD SIH OL AJONVULNA AHL LV ONIGNV.LS
AASSVIA] YOSSAAON

Massey's Garden Book

For the Southern States

By W. F. MASSEY, Se. D.

The Progressive Farmer Company
PUB LES FERS
Raleigh Birmingham Memphis Dallas

OD Almighty first planted a garden;

and indeed, it is the purest of human
pleasures; it is the greatest refreshment to
the spirits of man without which buildings
and palaces are but gross handiworks; and a
man shall ever see, that, when ages grow to
civility and elegancy, men come to build
stately sooner than to garden finely; as if
gardening were the greatest perfection.—
Lord Bacon: Essay on Gardens.

FER 14 1918
Ocls48i7e1

COPYRIGHT, 1918, By
THE PROGRESSIVE FARMER COMPANY

Bhan
‘

CONTENTS

Page
I—THE GARDEN SOIL AND EQUIPMENT
Tet GALcen SOIL. oo te rsccaee ante: fisWiaie.c siacalc eyes sisaleisicieistelernaietelacareiears aie eaieiers'a ean wisinie Z
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ASHES HANG. PLAINES sle'e vine aselais ciaie ouaivie alisis scisieserelsia:a’siaiais sini e1sicjare gtsiciainigieleieitie.cleieicisiseus 6 9
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WSin'e Sashes and «irate wis.ecs;siais,sintera\eseie:ois1siesoie in cjalein's o,slsja aie/a\aleisiele'ein/aicle wis/esehecsie wisi 12
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Garden: Ut plements 77.4 o:ateinia valor a srele:cis,ae:s'wlersiaia s sie’ o:aieig 4's sie sisteidigieleidisiee clei isiavsye 15
II—HOW TO GROW THE VARIOUS VEGETABLES
Artichokes Ron TS Rapin yecsscesacen se ecee etuiesinace 36
Asparagus ee ote ees acer cournnity sei i secant 36
Hears theese TE CEETICE™ icles eiaiatels iaeiaisve’e vie eeisle'ssaie eatsiaipes 36
COTS ce ceccccccecccnccccccceceseecees Mitstardt ee ee eae 37
Brussels Sprouts: .ceicccs ss cscscises se 22 Bee es Wee 37
Ga Dale Gia wiaie eotnptts aie, Sista rcisib sie's olan) ss ole ave 23 eo 38
Cantaloupes 25 P 10 SB) siv'eieisivinreisicisivisie' see ee eieieinig o-siniec>
Ganrotgh vacisiccientemimisas ssltis) Sais obs aicioiays BS TD 9 aor ieieins tris cerato se oie Enea 41
Cauliflower AYSLOV: cilesisaleiecine tidteicls necisc Selsarielntle 42
Celery wccricesinaetapaGec siaesesie ade Peas—Garden .....-..eseeseeeeeeee 42
Giieahaall Seanenen ace con ee EAE eee Peppers ees sess eeeeceeeeeeeeeeeeees 44
SMICOGVEN eaten aicle wie nminic aiteiiotnce’s ine Potatoes—Itisht: ances omesinessueets 44
Collards TRAGISTIES: ‘s’xia\sherass: serste: ale’ acetevs,sistelonsye-clere'ete 47
Gorn <scsceess RAM HarDicas ssiswisaeadedccaces ov alorwedes 48
Cucumber Mal Stent ws. ayer cveteraisias eielel sett eiate slermpele aeretarate 48
Mere Plant. 0 ocen ce swodecs asec csense onde: SPINACH 02. sicaices se seieeeescawssennn 49
OG. Cireigie ealee canine cuiietelscie ss eehGO) SOUASI un 5 sire ere anit slerclers 013 somw mentee 49
VET ISI en aanacieem acwistes sniveciowee see ncso4) LOMATOCS)(\ css caausaimen viedeis ode eetetean 50
Horse- Radish sjsisesciceuisie oisose o vekiewe OS PL MLEIILI PY Sa) ore cisreierersiercteisiaisrele elena oripiere 53
Kale! siivnase cinerea asibrstisincie se cures 5 IW ALCEIN GIONS Mare trclele stave sesiny sists er 53
II—WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN EACH MONTH
January atlas a eccodaegssinctccrassms se eseaaie reas 79
February ANT ITSE aie jesc 10 sisie,siase'eraiacs ora psernisroinno ela! 83
March Septembet veegccac swces es scumoueaeeer 86
April 2.cccnceciesies CO) CEQD EH Da. caresiatctacistvigwins crcare-ainmerntine 89
Miave oe sweress's INGVEMD Et (esis sanncns cacseesennmens 92
DUNO, cio ccicains wrecivese leiewig wesc caw esicis wore DECEMBER ncisess ces scisie ee daw beinaicire 96
IV—SMALL FRUITS
SULA WDOUIIGS Maereractreie ate tie alercrsleteres cto siete Suciviar lala cas Sale ace we shane ecctamie cocci isis leretatereinte 98
Dew beries and Blackbenries. aussce sees wavesinaticwa as ase atienrdes dames cnet beater 99
HRcis DD EET CSc we ctcleia cess ererocsicee store vivie eisue b uisbbisselorete asta o es sistelets wiaminigleieiseie neath ee eleiamiar te 100
@yurrantseand Goosebetries: scslast cess cine oie btiecv wsisse's lelewie tise erica aes aloiaian 101
MGTBDES GEE oestares Sape oro cttnigre ss Grers erie Teel die winwwisrerava diovarslary ¢.Sis.a-auslale dipiosie Fsleie ooalee wate atete ste 101
Vi PIiEAND DISHASES#ZAND! INSEGES :ccssecinetesjeceuclte oes calceinae seccteesmecant 104
VI—HANDY REFERENCE TABLES
standard. Varieties: Of Veretablesiccsessieccine + cdsgceeeoascudass ven coscie tens om 110
toning, Vegetables comes csscriass nea cid seiierece che feweGae cesar walens cob euna es 111
Quantities of ‘Seed to 100) Peet’ Of Row. ois. cctv sss. scacsccessccteecamcees 111
Nim b er otpielan ts, toy Acre) lowss.c.ccsasierscievns aisicise Cale tie nea celeste ac cian meaecniee 113
Weretanlewbianting mil able msccmelnie seve sacenue deltas semicckc san ercrer nore cen: 114
Hallvand, Wanter (Gardens How. to Have One... ..c.siduaertasaccest caiaesa 118
Wibat to: Plant in the Garden Kach’ Month <....2c.scceccesancuscadeccue ees 118
PlanteDiseases: and ihiteic Treatment agascccss ase resco anlaninct cee sends een 120
Insect Enemies and How to Conquer Them... ..:cccecscecescctccscccssecscs 122
SPLAVIN and pray eMonmulas) o.sec snes aease oeeem cries isk ceenee uncnee. 123
Bulletins mon GardeneGropss seyess tease sce spaeasost catincoraes ovat aes 124
Hlowermelarttine Mia bles. stain vate acv cece mectieeeacecs staceeerceeme tenes 125

POWs DOMAAV BAW PRED UY: WA WiNisccc it catciies sawiueses se editcagesaeecce sos 127

BLESS THE LITTLE GARDENS

Lord God in Paradise,

Look upon our sowing;
Bless the little gardens

And the good green growing!
Give us sun,

Give us rain,
Bless the orchards

And the grain!

Lord God in Paradise,
Please bless the beans and peas,
Give us corn full on the ear—
We will praise thee, Lord, for
these!
Bless the blossom
And the root,
Bless the seed
And the fruit!

Lord God in Paradise,
Over my brown field is seen,

Trembling and adventuring,
A miracle of green.

Send such grace
As you know,

To keep it safe
And make it grow!

Lord God in Paradise,
For the wonder of the seed,
Wondering, we praise you, while
We tell you of our need.
Look down from Paradise,
Look upon our sowing,
Bless the little gardens
And the good green growing!
Give us sun,
Give us rain,
Bless the orchards
And the grain!
—Louise Driscol, in
New York Times.

PREFACE

OR YEARS past, many readers of The Progressive Farmer
F have been asking me to prepare a garden book. Therefore,
in the intervals of a very busy life, I have prepared this
little volume. It is not intended to be a treatise on horticulture,
but is simply a little handbook for daily guidance in making the
farm garden.

I hope it may have some influence in promoting all-the-
year-round gardening in the South and aid in abolishing the
old-style garden which is surrendered to weeds and dead corn-
stalks in the fall; and will make it possible instead to have gar-
dens yielding their products without cessation.

“Hog and hominy” and black-eye peas are good things, but
they do not furnish the healthful variety of food which the
garden should enable any farm family to have. A frame anda
few glass sashes will furnish plenty of lettuce all winter, and
radishes, too, and the open garden should supply spinach, kale,
leeks, parsnips, salsify, carrots, cabbages and collards (the latter
buried where they grew). ‘These, with the stored onions, pota-
toes (Irish and sweet) and the canned fruits and vegetables of
summer growth, will give the table of the Southern farmer
such a bounteous supply of food that he will hardly be able to
tell the difference between summer and winter garden.

With all these things easily available, there is no need for
the Southern farmer to live all winter on salt pork and bacon,
corn bread and black-eye peas. So, here’s for an “all-the-year-
garden.”

W. F. Massey.

I.—THE GARDEN AND ITS EQUIPMENT

The Garden Soil

T SHOULD hardly be necessary to say that the garden soil

I must be well-drained and fertile. A soil inclining more to

sand than clay, a mellow sandy loam with a clay subsoil,

is the most desirable character of soil for vegetable growing.

But the heavy clay soils may be made very productive by getting

them more mellow through the turning under of vegetable
growth and the use of heavy applications of stable manure.

There are three things essential to the germination of
seed, and if any one of these is absent there will be no germina-
tion. These essentials are (1) a proper degree of heat, (2)
moisture and (3) the presence of the oxygen of the air. The
required degree of heat varies a great deal in different plants.
The seed of the English pea will germinate when the soil
is but a few degrees above the freezing point, while seed of
corn, tomatoes and other tender plants would fail to grow and
probably perish entirely. All the hardy vegetables will grow at
a low temperature and hence, as a rule, should be sown early;
for the more resistant a plant is to cold the more it is liable to
suffer in our summer heat.

To push forward the tender plants like tomatoes, egg plant
and peppers, therefore, we must make the heat needed for their
growth by artificial means in hotbeds under glass sashes or in
greenhouses heated by furnace or boiler.

Manuring and Fertilizing the Garden

In many old gardens where a liberal quantity of stable
manure has been applied every year, the soil gets an excess of
nitrogen, and vegetables grown for their underground parts
run to top and become unproductive. Then the owner says
that his soil has “gotten too rich to make potatoes,” etc. The
fact is that it has simply gotten unbalanced. The foods mainly
needed in the making of tubers on the potatoes are phosphorus
and potassium, and if there is a due supply of these in the soil
potatoes will be made no matter how large the tops grow.

7

8 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

But depending on stable manure alone leads to an excess
of nitrogen and a rank growth without corresponding produc-
tion of roots and tubers. The remedy is not to stop the manure,
but to supply what it mainly lacks. In my own garden J manure
very heavily in the fall, and in the spring add acid phosphate or
raw bone meal at rate of 1,000 pounds an acre.

Where there is not an adequate amount of stable manure,
about the best general fertilizer we can use is a mixture of equal
parts of cotton seed meal and acid phosphate. This will give a
liberal amount of phosphoric acid, and 1 per cent or more of
potash from the meal. This, if used in liberal quantity, will
make a good fertilizer for nearly all garden crops.

The great importance of stable manure is due to its humus-
making character, and when to this we add all the garden
refuse which may be rotted down in a heap each year, the soil
is in the best possible condition to use additional commercial
fertilizers, because of its greater capacity for retaining moisture
to dissolve them.

With a good rotation of humus-making crops in the outer
truck patch, we can use the commercial fertilizers to advantage
there and save the stable manure for the garden proper, since
cowpeas and crimson clover will abundantly supply the humus-
making material otherwise obtained from the stable manure.

Rotation of Garden Crops

Rotation of crops in the garden is just as important as the
rotation of farm crops. Continuous planting of land in the
same or similar crops will lead to an increase of the diseases
and insects peculiar to that crop. Asa general rule, with some
exceptions, crops grown for their roots should follow crops
grown for their tops and vice versa. ‘The only garden crop I
know which is better grown for some years on the same land is
onions. Properly manured and cleanly cultivated, onions seem
to prefer to be kept for several years in the same soil.

Hence, it is always well to make a planting plan for the
garden every spring, and keep it for reference the next spring,
so as to know just where each vegetable was planted the spring
before—and then what followed it the same summer and fall ;

SASHES AND FRAMES 9

for in the South every garden plan should be for an all-the-
year-round garden, and without the plan it is hard to keep a
record of the various plantings.

Beans and peas, being legumes, will return a considerable
amount of nitrogen to the soil if their tops are buried after the
crop is gathered.

While in the larger truck patch we can alternate the crops
with legumes like peas and crimson clover, the garden that is
properly kept at work all the year must depend for its humus
on heavy applications of manure and the return to the soil of
all vegetable refuse after it has been rotted in a compost.

But we can follow the onions that ripen in June with peas
and turn these under for planting onions again in the fall. In
this way, with a liberal use of phosphate, the onion land may
be kept improving. Or if the black-eye peas are not wanted in
the garden, we can use snap bean vines for digging under after
gathering the beans.

Every Good Gardener Must Have Sashes and Frames

No garden is complete for year-round work without some
glass sashes and frames. Cotton cloth on the frames is a poor
substitute for glass, and in the long run costs more. Frames
covered with cotton cloth will answer for hardening tender
plants in the spring, but for regular fall and winter work, the
glass sashes are far supe-
rior.

Sashes are made three

, feet wide and six feet long.

The best sashes are made of

Z clear-heart cypress lumber.

They are made either for a

single layer of glass or for

two layers, the latter mak-

ing a dead air space between them, and thus causing the sashes
to be more resistant to cold.

+
x

CLOTH-COVERED FRAME

10 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

The frames for the sashes are made six feet wide and as
long as needed, being ex-
=, tended so as to embrace as
“#4 many 3x 6 feet units as are

i} wanted. Market gardeners
make them of inch lumber

nailed to posts set in the

ground, the back or north
side being about 12 inches high and the front or south side 10
inches. For the home garden I have found it better to use
small portable frames so that it is easy to repeat a crop by
simply moving the frame to a fresh spot. My frames are
made for three of the 3x6 feet sashes. Between each pair of
sashes a 1x 3 inch crossbar is dovetailed into the sides of the
frame, but not nailed, so that it can be slipped out in preparing
the soil of the frame or in making a hotbed. In the middle of
this crossbar is nailed a half-inch strip as a parting strip, mak-
ing a slide for the sashes.

Marketmen use no crossbar, merely resting the sashes on
the sides of the frame. But this necessitates a man on each
side of the frame to move a sash, while with the slides one man
can easily open the frame by sliding the sash up or down.

DOUBLE-GLASS COVERED FRAME

SINGLE-GLASS FRAME

gE : —From Clemson College Bulletin,

Single Glass Frame—This illustration shows a hotbed which is amply large for the
family garden. The frame will accommodate four sash. The frame is 6x12 ft.

COLD FRAMES AND HOT BEDS 11

The double-glazed sashes are far more costly than the sin-
gle-glazed ones and are heavier to handle. But with a frame
well banked with earth on the outside, and the crossbars
to stop the cracks between the sashes, no frost will get inside at
a zero temperature, and we can grow things in the dead of win-
ter that will be hard to grow with single sashes unless well
covered at night with straw mats.

In the early use of the double-glazed sashes, one great dif-
ficulty appeared. The dust would inevitably blow in between
the layers of glass and would so obscure it that the sashes be-
came almost useless because of being so darkened. ‘This diffi-
culty has been solved in the Callahan duo-glazed sashes, which
are made so that it is easy to remove a pane or two of glass
and wash the interior. The weight of the duo-glazed sashes is
also an advantage, for light sashes are often blown off the
frames in high winds.

“Cold Frames” and “Hotbeds’ ; How Distinguished—The
frame and sashes when used simply on a bed of fertile soil con-
stitute what is called a “cold frame.’ Cold frames get no heat
except from the sun. A frame under which there is a deep bed
of fermenting manure is called a “hotbed.”

Hotbeds are used for starting tender plants of such things
as tomatoes, egg plant and pepper in late winter so as to get
the products earlier than otherwise could be done. It is well
to have several frames of the three-sash size, as they can be
used either as cold frames or on hotbeds, as needed.

To make a hotbed, dig a pit 20 inches deep and 6 inches
wider each way than the frame that is to be used on it. Then
pile a lot of fresh manure nearby, and when it begins to steam,
turn it over and repile it. Then, when it heats again, put it into
the pit, tramping and packing it down firmly until the pit is
filled. Then place the frame on it and bank all around the out-
side with manure.

In the frame put 4 inches of fine compost as used in
frames. Stick a thermometer in this, and put on the sashes
with a little opening at the top, and watch the rise of heat. Do
not sow the seed when the first rank heat is on, but wait until it
begins to decline. When it has fallen to 85 degrees, you can
sow the seed.

12 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

One of the principal uses of the cold frame is for growing
head lettuce in fall, winter and early spring. They can also be
used for blooming the flowering bulbs in winter, blooming vio-
lets clear of frost, and should also be used for hardening off
the tender plants started in the hotbed, since it is never well to
transplant directly from hotbed to open ground.

Using Sashes and Frames

It may be well to indicate in a concrete way just how
frames are used:

Lettuce in Cold Frames—In the fall one or more frames
are planted in lettuce. Seed of the Big Boston lettuce are sown
early in September, and in October are set 8 x 10 inches apart
in frames. The soil in the frames is made of a compost of
manure and grass sods which has been cut in early spring and
built up in layers with fresh manure. During the summer the
pile has been cut down and repiled twice till the compost has
well rotted. At each turning a goodly amount of raw bone
meal has been sprinkled through the heap. ‘This compost is 6
inches deep in the frames.

During the growth of the lettuce a light sprinkling of ni-
trate of soda is made between the rows, and the frames are
kept well watered. The sashes are not put on till the nights
get frosty, and in all sunny weather air is given by slipping
down the sashes more or less. This crop comes off about
Christmas or New Year’s.

If it is desirable to replant the same sashes with lettuce, a
fresh spot is manured, and the frame removed and set with
plants that have been sown later or sown in another frame in
October.

Beets and Radishes—Or the frame can now be freshly fer-
tilized and at once replanted with beets and radishes, using seed
of the Early Egyptian beet and the turnip-rooted radish, mak-
ing the rows 6 inches apart and planting alternately beets and
radishes. ‘The radishes will come out by February and the
beets will have 12-inch rows and should be thinned to 3 inches
or more apart.

9

USING SASHES AND FRAMES 13

Early in March the beets are gradually exposed to the air
and by the middle of the month the frame is removed to an-
other place to be used in transplanting the tomato plants that
have been started in a hotbed or greenhouse, so that they can
be grown strong and hardened off for transplanting to the open
garden in April.

Cauliflower in Frames—In October another frame can be
prepared in a similar manner, and cauliflower plants from seed
sown in September set six plants to a sash. The space between
these is then set with a close-heading lettuce like the Tennis
Ball or Belmont. ‘This lettuce, too, will come out by the first
of January, and the cauliflower let grow, and aided by applica-
tions of nitrate of soda, will be getting up near the glass by
March. Then, like the beets, they are hardened off and the
frame removed by the middle of the month, for it is necessary
to transplant tomato and other tender plants into the frames in
order to get them strong and hardy. As already said, it is
never well to transplant to the open ground directly from a
hotbed.

Tomatoes—To start tomatoes for early fruiting, the hot-
bed should be made and sown ten weeks before it is safe to set
plants in the open ground in your section. Then by the middle
of March usually the plants will be large enough to transplant
into cold frames. In the frames we set them 4 inches apart
each way and deeper than they grew in the hotbed, and then
give close attention to airing and watering. Sometime before it
is time to set them out, we gradually expose them to the air to
harden the plants. I like always to get tomato plants so hard-
ened that the stems are dark purplish instead of bright green.
This is a sign of hardiness and the plants will stand exposure
better than if kept so warm that the stems remain a bright
green.

Miscellaneous Uses for Frames—Other plants can be for-
warded in the cold frames. By filling 4-inch pots or even
strawberry boxes with good compost and packing them in the
frames, planting seed of cucumbers, cantaloupes, watermelons,
lima beans and other things in the boxes or pots direct, they
can then be transplanted when the weather is warm without
disturbing the roots.

14 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

In the hotbed, after the tomatoes are transplanted to the
frames, seed of egg plant and peppers can be sown, and these
transplanted later, for the time for sowing tomatoes is too early
for the egg plant, which need more heat and sunlight. And
except for the market gardener the peppers are not needed so
very early. I usually start egg plant and peppers in March.

Value of a Small Greenhouse

Every home garden would be better fitted for work by
having a little greenhouse in which to start the spring plants
early and to have some flowers in winter. I have one of the
smallest. This is a little house attached to the rear of my of-
fice, and into which I can walk in two steps from the desk
where I write. It is only 6 feet wide and 10 feet long. In the
cellar, under the office, is a little hot water boiler and from this
the hot water flows in a horizontal coil of six pipes, each 9 feet
long, hanging under the table in the greenhouse. The whole
affair including the boiler and piping did not cost more than
$100. It is a convenient place to work and saves the making
of a hotbed. One hod of coal runs it for a day and maintains
a heat of 60 degrees on cold nights. In fall and winter I grow
flowers in it, and in February start my tomato seed in a shallow
box there, and pot them in little 24-inch pots, later transplant-
ing them to the frames outside to get strong and hardy. In
this way I get ripe tomatoes early in June. The egg plants and
peppers, too, are started there in March and potted off.

Almost any farm garden could have such a little house for
the early plants and the flowers, and it is far more convenient
than stooping over a frame or hotbed in the cold outside. One
can also make sure of the temperature. ‘The little boiler is
filled up with coal at bedtime, after getting the pipes hot, and
the draft slowed down. No matter how cold, I never look at
it till the next morning and always find it all right.

Devoted entirely to early vegetable plants, a greenhouse as
small as this will furnish plants enough for twenty-five sashes
on the frames in spring. It is always a great pleasure to get
ahead of others with the early garden products, and in my case
I grow a great many tomato and egg plants ,etc., that meet with

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS 15

ready sale and about pay the expenses of growing my plants
and flowers. I have grown cucumbers in winter and tomatoes
and snap beans in mid-winter, and have sold the tomatoes for
24 cents a pound and the cucumbers from 75 cents to $1 per
dazen. For lettuce we do not need the heated houses they use
in the North because we can grow it just as well in the cold
frames under glass, but tomatoes and cucumbers and snap beans
need a warm house.

With such a little greenhouse and plenty of sashes on the
portable frames such as I have described one can do much to
keep the garden profitably at work all the year round. Then
by gradually learning the use of a heated glass structure one
may find that it will pay to build larger and grow some forced
products that will sell profitably.

Few people in the South realize the vast extent in which
vegetables are forced in winter in the North. All along the
Lake Shore region in Michigan, Illinois, Ohio and New York
there are immense ranges of greenhouses devoted to the grow-
ing of lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc., in winter. Talking
with one of the growers at Cleveland, Ohio, who has twelve
acres, of which six are covered with heated glass structures, he
told me that his gross sales from those twelve acres amounted
to $30,000 annually, and after paying the heavy expense of
heating six acres by steam, and paying a force of skilled hands,
he cleared $10,000 a year. Some day this business may de-
velop in the upper South, where the local conditions are far
better than in the North, because we have more sunshine in
winter and less cold.

Garden Implements

Out in the general truck patch where the Irish and sweet
potatoes, cantaloupes and watermelons are grown, we can use
the horse or mule and the usual farm implements. But in the
garden proper we plant too close and keep the ground so con-
tinually occupied that there is often no room for the horse.

In my garden the vacant spaces only come here and there
and are soon dug up again and replanted. Then, too, I cover
the whole soil with manure in the fall and in the spring add

16 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

liberally of acid phosphate sowed broadcast. Hence, we must
make every foot pay, and cannot have room for any four-footed
animal.

Even when grown by the acre, there are some crops, like
onions, that do not pay to plant wide enough for horse cultiva-
tion, since the heaviest sort of fertilization is demanded and
the onion crop is one that demands that the grower get right
down on knees and constantly pull every spear of grass and
every weed from the rows by hand.

Therefore, we need hand implements in the garden, and
these are now so plentiful that no one can afford to garden with

GARDEN WHEEL PLOW
WITH ATTACHMENTS

No one knows until he has tried it
how much more rapidly and _ satis-
factorily a garden can be cultivated
with a wheel plow than with old
fashioned hoes.

the old-fashioned hoe. The garden plow, with a single wheel,
is a very useful implement. It is simply a little plow with a
wheel ahead, and is also very useful in running out rows for
planting, and one can usually get expert enough with it to run
a straight row without a line.

Then there are garden seed drills which do very good work.
Some of these used by onion growers sow two rows at once.
Others are combined machines being drills and cultivators both.

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS aN

My own preference is for a drill that is used for drilling alone,
and while the two-wheel cultivators are good, we can run closer
to the rows and do better work with a cultivator having one
high wheel. I have found that the low wheels will sometimes
push in light and well-prepared soil instead of turning.

I have used the Norcross cultivator hoes several years, and
while I have a two-wheel cultivator, I find that I am more apt
to use the cultivator hoe, which now has been attached to a
wheel after the style of the garden plow. With the handled
cultivator hoe, one works backwards pulling it, and hence leaves
no tracks as in pushing the wheel cultivator.

I use the garden plow always for laying off rows and sel-
dom use a garden line, as I can usually sight and run a straight
row. If you want to have a real garden and one that it is a
pleasure to cultivate, do not depend on the old cotton hoe, but
get the improved garden implements which will enable you to
do the work easily and in far less time than with a hoe.

Il.—HOW TO GROW THE VARIOUS VEGETABLES
Artichokes

HERE are two very different species of plants grown un-
der the common name of artichoke. Cynara Scolymus
is the Globe artichoke. It is a hardy perennial plant,
which is increased either by suckers or seed. The part of the
plant eaten is the unopened flower head. The other species is
Helianthus Tuberosa, called Jerusalem artichoke. Its tubers
resemble to some extent those of the Irish potato, and are
often made into pickles, and more generally planted for hogs
to gather in winter. Patches of these are often found as weeds
in old gardens.
Asparagus

From time immemorial the practice has been to sow seed
of asparagus in nursery rows and transplant them to the per-
manent bed after one year’s growth. The transplanting of any
plant is a check to its growth, and retards to some extent its
development. I proved many years ago that the transplanting
of asparagus roots is not only needless, but retards the crop a
year, at least. Then it is far more costly to buy, or grow, roots
for transplanting than it is to grow the plants from the seed
right where they are to remain.

One reason for the general practice of transplanting has
been the idea that the roots must be very deep in the ground,
so that the shoots can be cut well below the ground with a
long white portion. But the consumers have found out that
this asparagus, partly white, is always hard and tough below the
ground, and the demand has increased for the tender green
shoots, which we all know are tender.

It is well, however, to get the roots well into the ground
since in their growth the tendency is to get nearer and nearer
the surface. But it is far cheaper and better to grow the crop
from seed sown right where the bed is to remain. It is better
because you can get cuttings from the undisturbed roots a year
sooner than you can from the transplanting. A good deal has

18

ASPARAGUS 19

been written about varieties of asparagus, but the main thing
in getting fat shoots is heavy manuring. Feed, more than va-
riety, makes the asparagus good. It will grow after a fashion
in poor soil, but will not make big stout shoots.

Being a permanent crop, occupying the ground for many
years, the location of the asparagus bed should be at one end
of the garden out of the way of the annual crops and along with
the rhubarb and other perennial crops. For an ordinary family
two or three rows about 50 feet long will furnish an abundance
in season,

Prepare the bed by very deep breaking, stuffing with stable
manure and acid phosphate very liberally. Then make trenches
15 inches deep and 3% to 4 feet apart. Frill these half full of
fine well-rotted manure. Cover with 1 or 2 inches of soil and
sow the seed thinly in rows in February or March.

As the plants get a few inches high, thin them to 2 feet
apart in the rows, and gradually work the soil to them as they
grow, till level. Keep cleanly cultivated all summer, and twice
apply a side dressing of nitrate of soda at the rate of 150
pounds anacre. In the fall cut off the dead tops, and cover the
whole bed with stable manure, reinforced with acid phosphate,
and when potash is available add a good dressing of kainit.

In the spring dig all this in and cultivate as before and fer-
tilize. The next spring you can begin cutting. In fact, I have
cut a little of very good size the first spring after sowing the
seed, but not much should be cut then. Every fall cover the
bed with the manure and acid phosphate, and kainit, when the
latter is to be had. Stop cutting by June 10th and then culti-
vate clean and fertilize to get strong crowns for the next sea-
son. After the second season many shoots will appear that
make seed, and in the fall it is best to cut the tops and burn
them so that there will not be a growth of volunteer plants to
thicken up the bed.

As to varieties, the only choice is one that is less subject
to blight than others, and I have found the Palmetto more re-
sistant to the rust or blight than any other. If blight appears,
spray with bordeaux mixture every spring before any. signs of
the disease appear. And always remember that heavy feeding
and clean cultivation are essential to getting big asparagus.

20 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

There is an old idea that salt is very useful on asparagus.
I suppose this comes from the fact of its naturally growing
along the salt water. But if you can give it some kainit every
fall that will carry all the salt that may be of any use. With-
out the kainit, it may be well to use some salt in the fall to aid
in dissolving plant food for the spring.

Beans

Bush Beans—There are a great many varieties of snap or
string beans offered by the seedsmen, but two or three sorts will
be all that are needed in the family garden. Beans, being ten-
der, are better planted after the soil has gotten warm. But I
always take some risk by planting a row early in April. Of
course, in the lower South they are planted earlier, but where
liable to returns of frost in spring it is better to postpone the
general planting till there is no further risk on this account.

For the earliest, I plant a row of the Black Valentine.
While there are better varieties, this one stands more chilly
weather than any I have tried. If frost threatens after the
beans are up, I take my garden hand-plow and throw the soil
over them till the cold passes, and then rake it off.

It is a good plan in planting the earliest beans to throw up
east-and-west ridges and plant the row of beans along the south
side of these. The ridges will then shelter them from the cold
winds. Ina garden where stable manure has been used freely,
the only fertilizer the beans will need is some acid phosphate.
Be sure to get healthy seed from a first-class seedsman, for
there are a great many seed sold that are affected with an-
thracnose.

The best green-podded bean I have tried is the Burpee
Green Pod Stringless. In my home garden I plant a row of
these 50 feet long and then another row as soon as the first
planted row is up, and so on during the whole summer till the
middle of August, so as to have a regular succession, and
plenty of green pods when frost comes, which can be canned
or packed down in brine in stone jars for winter use. A pint
of seed will plant a 50-foot row. I make the rows 2 feet apart.

Some like the yellow or wax podded varieties. Of these

BEANS 21

the Celestial is one of the best. It keeps bearing longer than
most varieties. The Wardwell wax bean is also good.

Pole Beans—There are a number of good varieties of snap
beans that need poles or some other support. I grow these on
chicken wire netting which is attached to posts at the ends and
middle of the rows. One of the best varieties is the Berger
Green Pod Stringless. If the pods are gathered promptly and
not allowed to ripen, this variety will bear clear through the
summer till frost. The pods are flat and the seeds are white
and are good when dry. Kentucky Wonder is also a good
variety.

Bush Lima Beans—The first of the bush lima beans orig-
inated in Campbell County, Virginia, and was afterwards sent
out by Henderson and Company as “Henderson’s Bush Lima.”
This variety belongs to the small lima or butter bean class. It
is earlier than the pole variety and can be grown just like snap
beans. Since the appearance of the Henderson Bush Lima
Bean, there have been a number of varieties introduced. ‘The
best now on the market are varieties of the potato lima, and the
latest and best is the Fordhook Bush Lima Bean. I plant these
in rows 24 feet apart and drop the seed 6 inches apart. This
variety makes large pods of very large beans when green,
though the dry seed look small. ‘They are continuous bearers,
and usually are full of bloom and green pods when cut down
by frost.

Pole Lima Beans—The large white lima bean is generally
rather unproductive in the South. The small lima, or butter
bean, is far more prolific and to my taste a better bean. There
is another class of the lima beans, the large, thick-seeded sorts,
or potato limas. Of this class the Dreer is best. The com-
mon method of growing these beans is to set poles for them
to climb on, but I prefer to use the chicken wire netting. A
5-foot width of this stretched to posts with the lower edge a
foot from the ground will give plenty of space for the beans,
which are planted a foot apart.

22 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK
Beets

Early Beets—Those who have frames and sashes can have
beets very early. After cutting the Christmas and New Year’s
crop of lettuce from a frame about January 10th, I add more
fertilizer to the soil and sow Egyptian beets and scarlet turnip
radishes in rows 6 inches apart. Attention must, of course, be
given to airing in sunny weather, and if the single-glazed
sashes are used there should be some means for covering the
sashes on very cold nights. Pinestraw will answer very well
for this if well cleaned off after the cold passes. The radishes
grow fast and soon come off so that the beets have the foot
rows. Then by the first of March the frame can be removed
to another place to be used for hardening off the early tomato
plants. The beets will then stand any frost we are apt to have,
and you can be pulling beets about the time other people are
sowing.

Then for planting early beets in the open ground, use a
high-grade fertilizer in the furrows and bed on it. Flatten the
beds slightly and sow the seed thinly. Sow in February, and if
not caught by a freeze in the seed leaf, they will stand the frost
after they get the rough leaf. For this sowing I prefer to use
the Eclipse and the old Bassano. The Bassano is a light-col-
ored beet and has a big top, and hence is not preferred by the
market growers. But it is the sweetest beet grown. The Eclipse
is a good red. The Egyptian is the earliest, “put soon gets poor
in quality, hence I use it only for sowing in the frames.

the middle of July. At this time I use the blood turnip beet of
a good strain or the Half-Long Dark Blood. Use commercial
fertilizer only, and use it liberally, for stable manure is apt to
cause beets to grow forked. ‘The late beets are planted in rows
20 inches apart; and in the late fall I throw a furrow to each
side of the rows and let them remain where they grew all win-
ter, taking them up as needed.

Brussels Sprouts

This is a plant of the cabbage family which makes an open
head and a tall stalk, and the whole stalk is lined with little

CABBAGE 23

heads about the size of a small walnut. They are very nice
after frost has struck them. In the North they can be grown
for summer use, but after repeated trials I have found that it
is useless to try to head them in summer in the South. Hence
the best time to start them is to sow the seed in late July, and
transplant like late cabbages or collards. ‘Then the little heads
will be ready in November.

Cabbage

Early Cabbage—While there have been many varieties of
extra early cabbages introduced by seedsmen under various
names, the standard early cabbage is still the Early Jersey
Wakefield. A somewhat later and larger variety has been se-
lected from this and called Charleston Wakefield. Recently
there has been an early cabbage, with a more rounded and
dome-shaped head, introduced from Denmark under the name
of Copenhagen Market Cabbage. This is about as early as
the Charleston Wakefield and somewhat larger in the head.
But it has been found that this variety is not suited for fall sow-
ing and wintering over for spring heading, for it will invariably
run to seed in spring instead of heading. Hence the best way
to grow this variety is by sowing the seed in a cold frame un-
der glass in February and using it as a succession to the Early
Jersey Wakefield.

The so-called “frost proof” plants advertised so extensively
are simply fall-sown plants wintered in the South for spring
sales. Formerly it was a common practice north to sow the
seed of the early Wakefield the middle of September, and trans-
plant the plants thickly into cold frames to winter over for
spring setting. Now that they can be wintered more cheaply in
the South this practice has largely been abandoned.

I usually make two sowings in the fall, one about the mid-
dle of September and another in early October. In a long,
late growing season, the first sowing may get too large; for
while we want good plants we do not want overgrown ones
which will be apt to run to seed in the spring.

For growing the plants we need light, well-drained and
fertile soil, and need to use manure or fertilizer liberally in the

24 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

furrows. Make the furrows 3 feet apart, and use in them a
fertilizer high in nitrogen and phosphoric acid and very little
potash. Use this at rate of 1,000 or more pounds an acre. Then
bed on this and run the furrows and the beds east and west.
Run a furrow through the bed and set the plants 15 inches
apart in this open furrow, being sure to set them deep enough
to cover the whole stem, for if the stem bursts as a result of
frost the plant will be worthless even if it lives.

I have found that this setting in open furrows in No-
vember is better than setting on the south side of a ridge, as
has been the practice, for in that position the warm spells in
winter will excite the plants into growth, and a return of cold
may kill them. What we want is to keep them dormant till
spring. Then the plants set in the open furrows will be found
fairly on the surface when the soil is worked away from them
and cultivation begun. Then in spring, after the soil is lev-
eled, an application of nitrate of soda alongside the plants when
dry, and not touching the leaves, will greatly promote a rapid
growth and early heading.

Summer Cabbage—Sow seed of the Copenhagen Market
Cabbage in early February in a cold frame under glass or cloth,
and set the plants as early in spring as the soil can be worked.
Use the same heavy fertilization in the furrows and bed on it.
Then flatten the beds and set the plants about 18 to 20 inches
apart in 3-foot rows, as they need a little more room than the
Early Wakefield. Then for still later use sow seed in the open
bed early in spring of the Fottler Brunswick Cabbage. This is
a very short-stemmed drumhead which will, under good culti-
vation, make heavy heads in September. This planting will need
soil naturally moist and should never be allowed to suffer from
lack of moisture in summer.

Winter Cabbage—Contrary to the general opinion we can
grow good, large-headed cabbages in the South when properly
attended to. Sow seed of a good strain of the Late Flat Dutch
cabbage the middle of July. Then see that the seed bed never
lacks for water, but keep the plants growing well and get good
strong plants. Set these in late August in rows 3 feet apart and
2 feet apart in the rows. Moist bottom land will be a favorable
location for them or land that can be artificially irrigated, for

CANTALOUPES 25

plenty of moisture is essential to success. In fact, collards
grown in the same way will be of a far superior character to
those planted earlier and allowed to take chances and run up
great stalks and poor heads. Rapid cultivation is essential, and
nelping with nitrate of soda is also needed. These, in order to
keep well, should head not earlier than late November or early
December.

There is never sufficient cold to damage cabbages before
some time in December. When real cold threatens, turn the
heads of the cabbages over towards the north, and then pile the
earth over the stem and the lower part of the head, leaving the
top exposed and sheltered from the winter sunshine by being
towards the north. They will keep very well in this condition,
as the stem and the lower part of the head are the tender parts.
The heads can be cut during the winter, and the stalks left, as
these will sprout in the spring and make early greens for boiling.

Cantaloupes

These are now very largely grown for shipment north,
especially by truck growers on the Peninsula of Maryland, Del-
aware and Virginia, where thousands of acres are annually
planted. The practice in this region is to plow and prepare the
land early in January, and run out rows 5 feet apart. These
furrows are then half filled with stable manure brought on cars
from New York City. This manure is then allowed to lie and
rot till planting time in April. Then about 500 pounds of high-
grade fertilizer per acre is added and bedded on, the ridges
slightly flattened and the seed drilled in on them with a garden
seed drill.

When a good stand is secure the plants are thinned to
about 20 inches apart. For additional fertilizer about a table-
spoonful of nitrate of soda is scattered around each hill. To
avoid danger of injuring the plants this should be done when
the leaves are dry. The crop is then cleanly cultivated till the
vines are in the way. As the melons form, the whole field is
sown to crimson clover to make a winter cover after the crop
is off.

In garden culture I have found it best to give the whole

26 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

area a heavy covering of manure in the late fall. Then in spring
in planting melons or cucumbers, I run out furrows and use
raw bone meal in them at the rate of about 1,000 pounds an
acre. I then bed on this with my garden hand-plow, and sow
the seed in a row, thinning out to 20 inches in the rows. I
find that they do a great deal better with the broadcast manur-
ing than by having a body of manure immediately under the
plants, which often interferes with them in dry weather. But
since putting sprinkling pipes over my garden I am independent
of the rains. The cantaloupes grown by the marketmen are
universally of the Rocky Ford type. The strain known as Bur-
rell’s Eden Gem is most commonly used. The cantaloupes are
shipped in crates known as 45’s—that is, they hold just 45 can-
taloupes of the average size. ‘The larger ones called Jumbos
are shipped in the same crates but in smaller number, of course.
This variety is also good for family use, but there are also other
desirable varieties for the home garden. Personally, I have a
liking for the salmon-fleshed varieties like Paul Rose, Osage,
Emerald Gem and Tait’s Ideal. The Emerald Gem has dark
green skin and very thick orange-salmon flesh, and is one of the
best varieties.

The earliest cantaloupe is the Jenny Lind. It is a small
melon ribbed and flattened at the ends and often with a sort of
button on the end. It is largely grown by the New Jersey grow-
ers. It is of fine eating quality. The Montreal Market is the
largest of cantaloupes, often weighing 18 to 20 pounds. It is
largely grown in hotbeds in Canada and imported to this coun-
try at a high price in late summer. I have grown it here, but
have never found it of good quality.

Never let a cantaloupe stay on the vine to turn yellow, but
pull it as soon as the stem starts easily from the vine. Pulled
before this, they will not sweeten well, while if allowed to get
yellow they lose flavor.

Carrots

Carrots are not so much grown in the South as they should
be. The large varieties, grown for stock feeding, are very use-
ful in winter where the farmer has no silo, helping greatly in
keeping up the winter milk supply and adding color to butter

CAULIFLOWER 27

in winter. The shorter and earlier varieties vary from the little
forcing sorts (which can be grown in cold frames in spring
like radishes), on to the half-long, stump-rooted varieties for
winter use.

These last, of which the best is the Danvers Half-Long,
are sown in rows 16 inches apart in the garden in late June or
early July. Thin to 3 inches apart in the rows and in the fall
let them remain where they grew and they can be dug for use
all winter, though the frost may destroy most of the tops. They
are nice in soups and boiled as a table vegetable. These, like
other root crops, make smoother and better roots when well
supplied with commercial fertilizer rather than stable manure,
which is apt to cause them to grow forked, unless the manure
is very old and fine. For stock feeding grow the Long Orange
variety in the open truck patch and plant wide enough apart for
horse cultivation.

Cauliflower

To grow cauliflower successfully it must mature very early
in spring or very late in the fall. If the spring plants do not
head before the weather gets hot they will seldom head at all.
In the lower South, the seed can be sown in the fall, just as we
sow early cabbage seed, and set out to head in the spring. But
in the upper South, the plants do not stand the winter as well
as cabbages, and for this reason need to be grown in frames.
I believe that our market growers who use frames for lettuce
growing could make the cauliflower more profitable than lettuce
by setting the plants in the frames in the fall and protecting
them either by glass or cloth.

I have grown cauliflower with perfect success under glass
sashes. My frames were the usual 6 feet wide frames with
sashes 3 x 6 feet. I planted six cauliflower plants to each sash
and filled in between them with lettuce for heading at Christ-
mas. After the lettuce was cut out, the cauliflower plants were
given clean cultivation and some nitrate of soda sprinkled be-
tween them. By the first of March they were getting up to the
glass and were gradually inured to the air, the sashes being re-
moved entirely by the middle of March and transferred to other
frames for hardening off the early tomato plants. By this
method the cauliflower headed well in April and early May.

28 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

This gives a treble use for the glass and a profitable crop
of both lettuce and cauliflowers. The difficulty in getting a
late fall crop in the open ground is the carrying of the plants
through the hot weather. The best plan will be to have the
plants grown in the North and set them in September in soil
made very rich and naturally retentive of moisture. When
well grown they can be headed in November and make fine
heads.

Cauliflower seed is mainly grown in Denmark, and the
variety known as Snowball is the best and earliest.

Broccoli—For the fall crop the plant similar to cauliflower
called “Broccoli” is often used for home consumption. But it
is not adapted to shipping, because the heads do not keep like
those of the cauliflower, but wilt and get bitter after cutting.

Celery

The cultivation of celery varies with the climate. In the
North, as at Kalamazoo, Michigan, truckers can grow celery,
by starting the plants early in hotbeds under glass, and mature
it in summer and early fall. This cannot be done in the South.
Then in the far South, as in Florida, the crop is grown entirely
as a winter crop from fall-sown seed. In the middle and upper
South about the only celery crop available is that which comes
into use about Christmas and New Year’s.

To grow this crop, sow seed on a well-prepared bed on
lines marked out on the surface about 6 inches apart. Sow in
early May. Merely pat the seed in with the back of a spade,
but do not cover. Then cover the bed with fertilizer sacks
and water well on these. This will retain the moisture at the
surface and prevent crusting. Then, as the seed germinate, the
sacks must be lifted up gradually and finally removed, after
which the plants must be kept clean of weeds. As soon as the
plants are large enough to handle they should be transplanted to
another bed in similar rows, but set 2 inches apart, to get
strongly re-rooted. If the tops grow too strongly they can be
sheared somewhat. This will give strong plants for setting in
late August.

CELERY 29

In most places celery is planted in single rows 4 feet apart
and each row earthed to itself. But in the South the best method
is to use what is known as the “Baltimore bed method’; for
when grown in single rows it is necessary to take up the plants
and finish the blanching in trenches, while the bed method in-
volves no lifting till the celery is taken up for use.

I always plant celery as a succession crop after some early
crop like cabbage, beans, etc. If the soil has been heavily ma-
nured for the early crop I would use only acid phosphate and
cotton seed meal mixed equally for the celery crop. For set-
ting the plants, first prepare a board a foot wide and 6 feet
long with the ends accurately squared. Cut notches on both
edges of this board 6 inches apart. This will make eleven
notches. Then stretch a line taut alongside the bed to be
planted. Set the planting board square with this line at one
end, and set a plant at each notch. Then move the board to
match with the last set plants and set another row, and so on
till the whole bed is set. Where more than one bed is to be
planted, leave a space of 8 feet between the beds for earthing.
You will now have a bed with plants set in rows across the bed
a foot apart and 6 inches in the rows. All to be done now is to
keep the bed well cultivated and clean of weeds and grass till
the time comes for setting up or handling the crop. This is
done when the outer leaves grow heavy and are inclined to fall
over.

Then we prepare two cords about ten feet long with a peg
attached to each end. Set a peg at the end of the first row and
take a turn of the string around each plant in the row to hold
the leaves up, and stick the other peg at the far end. Treat
the second row in the same way. ‘Then shovel in soil between
these two rows and pack it close to the plants to keep the stems
erect. Go over the whole bed in this way.

Then as the nights get cool you can commence the earth-
ing. Put soil between the rows just so as to keep the growing
centre of the plants above the soil, but take care to get no soil
into the head. Carry up the earth on the sides of the bed 6
inches beyond the ends of the rows, making the bed full 6 feet
wide. Continue the earthing as the plants grow, taking care
never to work in the celery when the leaves are wet. Finally,

30 MASSEY 'S GARDEN BOOK

by the last of November or early December, when the weather
promises to get really cold, cover the entire bed with earth 6
inches deep, and then cover it thickly all over with pine straw,
and you can take out the celery as wanted in winter.

Chard

This is a variety of beet which makes an immense growth
of tops, but no edible roots. They are planted early in spring
and are in use all through the summer. I sow them in rows
rather thickly and as soon as the leaves are large enough J thin
them out and use the thinnings for greens and no one could dis-
tinguish these young leaves from spinach. Thin them to 6
inches apart and then all through the summer the outer leaves
may be pulled and the blades of the leaves boiled for greens.
The leaf stalks, which are nearly as large as rhubarb, can be
cooked and served like asparagus, thus getting two nice dishes
all summer from the same plant. There are a number of varie-
ties, but I have found that the Lucullus is the best.

Collards

While I have no sort of objection to eating well-grown
collards, I prefer to grow good hard-headed cabbages, and these
can be grown in the South, as I have shown, by sowing the seed
at the proper time and giving the crops the richest of soil and
abundance of water during growth. Collards will stand more
abuse, however, than cabbage, but they thrive better if given as
good cultivation and attention as cabbages.

Started in July you can make short-stemmed and thrifty
plants by late November, which will keep better in winter than
the earlier planted collards. Treat them in the fall just as I
have advised for late cabbage. That is, turn them over with
head to the north and bank the soil over the stems and base of
the head, and they will blanch nicely for winter use.

Like all the cabbage tribe, collards are best when well fed.
Manure heavily and give some nitrate of soda to urge a rapid
growth, and they will be far superior to half-starved, poorly
cultivated plants. But if you will grow some Drumhead Savoy
cabbage I do not think that you will want any collards.

CORN—CUCUMBER 31
Corn

The early varieties of sugar corn seldom amount to much
in the South. In fact, sugar corn in general does poorly in the
South because people fail to grow their own seed. The corn
sold by the seedsmen is largely grown in Nebraska and other
northern localities, and corn of any sort seldom does well at
first when removed far south of the locality where produced.
There is no difficulty in growing the later sorts of sugar corn
in the South when acclimated, hence it is always best to mature
seed at home and get it acclimated. This can seldom be well
done with the early crop because it is usually so badly infested
with boll worms, making it hard to get good ears for seed. But
a crop planted the middle of June or even in early July can be
matured clear of worms and will make the best seed for home
use in the South. The plants gradually attain a greater size
and vigor, yet do not mature so early as seed from the North.

For early use I do not plant sugar corn, but use seed of the
Norfolk Market corn. This is an improvement on the old
Farly Adams corn, making longer ears and just as early. It is
a very early dent corn, in fact, and can be profitably used in
field planting, when it is necessary to plant very late.

Every spring I plant a little of the early sugar corn like
the Golden Bantam, because of its very fine quality, though we
get very little of it and very small ears. The Black Mexican
sugar corn generally does fairly well and is early. This corn is
a dark purple color when ripe, but pale pink when ready for the
table. Plant the Norfolk Market corn, follow with a little of
the Golden Bantam and then plant successive crops of the
Country Gentleman, Stowell’s Evergreen and Kandall’s Giant.
The latest and largest sugar corn is the Egyptian.

In my garden, as fast as the ears are used, I pull out the
stalks and set them aside to cure, thus have the ground cleared
of stumps and ready for some later crop.

Cucumber

The practice of the large truck growers, in growing cu-
cumbers, is to prepare the soil in early winter, run out furrows
5 feet apart, fill them half full of stable manure, and let it lie

32 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

and rot till spring. Then they add 500 pounds of high-grade
fertilizer per acre and bed on it. The beds are slightly flat-
tened and the seed put in with a garden drill. When a stand
is secured they thin them to two plants in a hill 20 inches apart,
and scatter about a tablespoonful of nitrate of soda around each
hill, cultivating clean till the vines are in the way. As cucum-
bers form, they sow crimson clover all over the field for a
winter cover.

In my garden I adopt a somewhat different method. The
whole area is well covered with stable manure in the late fall
and let lie till spring, when it is turned under. Then, in plant-
ing my cucumbers and cantaloupes, I make hills 3x4 feet
apart, work into the soil a big handful of fine bone meal, make
up the hill, plant plenty of seed, and thin out when safe from
bugs.

The striped and spotted beetles are usually on the watch to
attack the plants as soon as they get above ground. To disarm
them, I keep fine bone meal dusted over the plants. Any fine
dust will check them. They can also be killed by spraying with
lead arsenate mixed at rate of 1 pound of lead to 30 gallons of
water. Then the plants are cultivated clean; and where the
borers are apt to attack them, spray with the lead arsenate till
the cucumbers set and are partly grown.

For the family garden the Davis Perfect is best. Market
growers mainly use varieties of the White Spine like the Klon-
dyke. The Davis Perfect is slightly longer and not so thick,
but of a very bright dark green color. For a pickling crop I
plant in late June and gather the cucumbers when half grown.
In gathering cucumbers always cut them from the vines, leaving
a small piece of stem. Never pull them from the vines.

Egg Plant

Though the egg plant is especially adapted to Southern
cultivation, it is rarely seen in home gardens in the upper South,
though an important market crop in the lower South, as in
Florida and Louisiana. It is a very tender plant and should
never be started as early as we start the early tomato plants,
for it is seldom safe to put them in the open ground till after

ENDIVE AND CHICORY 38

the middle of May. Early March is time enough to sow the
seed in a hotbed under glass sashes or in shallow boxes in the
greenhouse or window. Large market growers use a hotbed
and transplant the plants, as soon as large enough, to a fresh
hotbed to grow strong for later transplanting.

My own practice in growing a supply for the home gar-
den is to sow the seed in March in shallow box of rich compost
in my greenhouse. Then, as soon as they have made a pair of
rough leaves, I set them in pots of the 2%-inch size. When
these are fairly filled with roots, I transfer them to 4-inch pots
and grow them on strongly so that by planting time I have stout
plants with leaves as large as my hand. J never try to harden
them by setting in a cold frame, as I do tomato plants, for they
get stunted in this way. Keep them growing fast till the soil is
finally warm and then turn them from the pots with the ball of
earth entire, and they grow off without check.

The earliest and most prolific variety is the Black Beauty,
but in my experience it is the hardest to get started and to get
to grow off rapidly. Maule’s Excelsior is a stronger growing
plant and the New York Improved Spineless is also a strong
grower. I usually sow seed of one of these at the same time
with the seed of the Black Beauty, as they make larger fruits
than the Black Beauty, though rather later.

It is always best to let a fine specimen of each ripen and
save the seed, for I have always had better succéss with home-
grown seed than those from the seedsmen.

Endive and Chicory

Endive belongs to the chicory family. It is generally used
as a hot weather substitute for lettuce. There are two varie-
ties, the green curled and the white curled, or self-blanching.
The seed is sown in the open ground in early spring and the
plants transplanted into beds 8x10 inches apart. When the
heads are well grown, they are blanched by tying the leaves up
loosely when dry. Or, they can be covered in some way to
make them blanch. Some merely lay a shingle on the head for
a few days. I employ conical paper caps, which are also used
as plant-protectors in the spring. Setting these over the heads
soon causes them to blanch, making them less bitter.

34 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

The true chicory, called witloof or French endive, is grown
from seed sown in early spring and allowed to grow till No-
vember, keeping it cleanly cultivated. It is then taken up and
set in trenches 16 inches deep and the soil packed to them and
covered with a thick layer of manure. In about four weeks
the crop will be ready to lift and will be well blanched. Endive
and chicory are eaten raw like lettuce or boiled as greens.

Herbs

Sage—The most commonly used seasoning herb is sage.
It is far better to grow sage from seed every year than to keep
old bushes in the garden. In March sow the seed in a well-
prepared seedbed, and when the plants are of good size, trans-
plant them, after some early crop is off, in rows 2 feet apart
and 1 foot in the rows. ‘Then, in late summer and fall, the
entire tops can be cut, for they will all be tender and can be
dried in the shade for winter use. If the plants are kept over
they will run to bloom the next spring and the crop will be
smaller. It is better to throw the old plants away and grow
again from seed. What I have said here applies to the old-
fashioned sage. But we now have a variety known as Holt’s
Broad Leaf, which never blooms or seeds. This is grown only
from cuttings or division of the old plants. The leaves are
much larger than the old variety, and the plants can be given a
permanent place in the garden, cutting them down to the ground
in early spring so that the young growth will all be tender and
clear of hard stems. Cuttings of the young growth, set in a
pan of wet sand in a window in early spring, will root easily
and the plants can be potted to grow strong for setting in the
garden. Or the old plants can be taken up, divided and reset.

Thyme, sweet marjoram and other herbs will live for years
in the same place, but are really better grown annually from
seed.

Dill, the leaves of which are used in pickles, is a hardy
biennial plant. It grows from seed one season, blooms, seeds
the second season and dies. Hence the seed should be sown in
alternate years, or annually.

Fennel is similar to dill and of the same duration.

HORSE-RADISH—KALE 35

Horehound is a hardy perennial and a bed of it can remain
in the same place for a number of years. The same is true of
lavender, which housekeepers value for placing in the bureau
drawers because of its fragrance.

Horse-Radish

While horse-radish is a perfectly hardy plant and will live
in the same spot from year to year, it is only well-grown by
treating it as an annual. The roots are at their best when of
one season’s growth. The crop is grown from cuttings of the
side roots about 4 inches long. These are cut square across at
the top and sloping at the base, to prevent setting them upside
down. These cuttings are planted by punching holes and set-
ting them straight in the soil. A good place to plant these cut-
tings is between rows of early cabbage. ‘Then, when the cab-
bage are cut, the horse-radish can be cultivated the rest of the
season, and dug in the fall. At this time the side roots are
trimmed off, tied in bundles and buried for planting in the
spring. ‘The crop needs heavy fertilization to make good
straight roots.

There is a new variety from Bohemia called Maliner Kren,
which is the best variety grown. Any of the leading seed-
houses will supply the cuttings in spring, and the earlier they
are set the better.

Kale

Kale is very extensively grown in the Norfolk section for
shipping north in winter. The Dwarf Curled Scotch kale is
sometimes grown like late cabbage and collards. The plants
are set in August and make very large spreading heads of pret-
tily crimped leaves. These are good for boiling after touched
by frost, the plants being quite hardy. Then, the still more
hardy Norfolk curled kale is also grown and is of better quality
than the Scotch. Some seedsmen catalogue the Green Curled
German kale as very hardy, but I have found that sown in rows
along side the Norfolk kale it was killed in winter, while the
Norfolk kale survived. Dreer’s Imperial Long Standing kale
is of the Scotch type, beautifully curled and very hardy. Sown
early in summer and transplanted and grown like cabbages, it
will furnish greens all winter.

36 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK
K ohl-Rabi

This is a plant belonging to the cabbage family which
makes a large bulb-like swollen stem above ground and a tuft
of leaves above. The swollen stem is the part used and is
boiled after peeling like turnips. ‘The seed are sown in early
spring for an early crop, and late summer for a fall crop. Sow
in rows 16 inches apart and thin the plants to 4 inches. Like
all this class of plants, it needs a rich and heavily manured
soil to make large bulbs.

Leek

Leeks make the best winter substitute for green onions,
and are milder than onions. Sow the seed very early in spring,
preferably in February, in a well-enriched seed bed. Grow
them on strongly till July. Then, after some heavily manured
early crop, transplant them into open furrows in rows 16 inches
apart and 3 inches in the rows. Work the soil to them grad-
ually and finally earth up slightly. The idea is to get long white
shanks for cooking.

They are perfectly hardy and can be left all winter in the
rows where they grew, and taken up as wanted for use. We
use them all winter through till the young onions are ready in
early spring.

Lettuce

Lettuce is one of the chief market crops of the South and
is largely grown in beds under cloth, although far better crops
can be grown under glass sashes.

For the first fall crop of lettuce to be grown in the open
ground, I sow seed of the Big Boston variety early in August
and transplant the plants, as soon as of good size, into rows 16
inches apart and & inches in the rows. Then, they are not al-
lowed to suffer from lack of water, while nitrate of soda is
scattered between the rows to hasten growth. This crop will
head in October or early November.

Early in September sow more seed of the Big Boston,
and as soon as the plants are large enough, transplant them into
frames, spacing 8x10 inches. As they start to grow, give
these, too, some nitrate of soda, being sure none of it touches

MUSTARD—OKRA 37

the leaves. Put the glass or cloth over the frames when the
nights get frosty, and this crop will head for Christmas and
New Year’s. In the meantime, sow seed in a frame in Octo-
ber, and when the first frame is cut out, move it to a freshly
manured place and plant with these plants for the late winter
and early spring crop.

In late January sow seed of the Wonderful or New York
lettuce in a frame and harden these off so that they can be set
in the open ground in late February. This is the largest-head-
ing lettuce grown, and will stand longer in the spring without
running to seed than any other sort. In rich and moist soil it
will often make heads weighing three to four pounds each. This
crop needs heavy manuring and applications of nitrate of soda
during its growth, for lettuce must be grown fast to be good.
In the frames in fall and winter the soil must be stuffed with
rotten manure and high-grade fertilizers and nitrate of soda
used.

Seed of the last spring crop can be sown outside in Feb-
ruary and transplanted to follow those from the frame, but it
is rarely of use to try to head lettuce later than the first of June
or in some seasons even earlier.

Cos lettuce is of upright growth and can be planted closer
than the wide spreading sorts. It should be grown early in
spring, and the heads will usually need tying in to blanch them.
When well-grown this is a very fine variety.

Mustard

Mustard makes about the earliest of spring-sown greens,
and comes in very nicely after the turnip tops. It is sown in
rows in early spring and grows quickly and is soon out of the
way of later crops. The White London mustard is about the
best variety.

Okra

Okra is good either as a boiled vegetable or as the chief
ingredient in gumbo soup. The pods are cut for use while still
tender and before they get stringy. Cut at the proper stage
they can be sliced and dried and kept for making soup in
winter.

38 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

Plant the seed in rows about 3 feet apart in rich soil and
when a stand is secured, thin the plants to a foot apart. Do
not plant the seed till the soil is warm, as the plants are quite
tender.

One of the best tall-growing varieties is Perkins’ Long
Pod. The pods are long and green. ‘Then, there is a dwarf
sort, the Little Gem, which also makes long green pods and
does not grow so tall. The White Velvet or Creole has smooth
pods of a creamy white color and is very productive, but it gets
tough more quickly than the Perkins.

Okra pods should be kept cut even if not all used at once,
as the surplus can be dried. One good plant left to mature
will furnish all the seed needed ina large garden, and for seed
saving it is always best to allow the first. pods to mature for
seed, ‘and thus prevent the tendency of the plants to grow con-
stantly taller in case only the refuse late pods are saved for
seed.

Onions

Early Onions—Onions are best grown in a well-drained
soil tending more to sand than clay. Heavy manuring and fer-
tilizing are needed, for the onion demands a fat soil; and as the
crop demands the cleanest of cultivation it is best to depend on
high-grade commercial fertilizer, not less than 1,000 pounds per
acre, and keep the same land in onions every year for five or
six years. When grown on a large scale for market, the land
should be sown in peas as soon as the crop 1s off and the peas
disked down and turned under in September before replanting
in onions.

Onions when one-third to half grown are bunched for
market in the spring, and this use of the crop by the market
gardener often pays better than to let them ripen. For the ear-
liest green onions, I have generally used sets of the Norfolk
Queen. The next best is the White Pearl onion. The sets are
planted in September in rows 16 inches apart and about 3 inches
in the rows.

Fven in field culture it does not pay to plant onions wide
enough in the rows to admit of horse cultivation. The entire
soil must be made very rich, and close planting gives the heav-

ONIONS 39

iest crop. ‘The cultivation is done with hand wheel cultivators.
One must get down on his knees and take out every weed by
hand, for this crop will not tolerate weeds in the rows. The
sets are planted rather shallow, and late in the fall the soil is
thrown to each side of the rows as a winter protection, to be
pulled away in early spring for the bulbs to form near the sur-
face.

The green onions will be ready to use as soon as they are
as large as one’s thumb end and so on till half grown. These
fall-planted sets often tend to run to seed, and if allowed to do
so, the bulb will be worthless. Hence, attention must be given
in spring and any seed stalks that appear must be nipped out at
once.

The Yellow Potato is the first ripe onion, and when grown
for sale it comes on the market a good while before the general
seed-grown crop of the North, usually bringing a good price.
This onion never makes seed, but makes offsets at the root,
which are used as sets for planting in September. A large set
will make a good onion and a number of sets, while a small one
will usually make one large onion. A large and fully grown
onion will, if planted, burst up into twenty to thirty sets, and to
produce the sets in quantity it is well to plant some large onions
in the fall. In the spring the offsets can be pulled off and
cleaned and bunched for green onions.

As I have said, the Yellow Potato onion makes the earliest
ripe crop. It is not a good keeper and should be sold at once,
if grown for sale. No attempt should be made to carry the
sets over for spring planting, for they will be worthless and
sprouted by spring; and being perfectly hardy, the best place
for any unsold sets is in the ground in the fall. The great
onion crop of the North is grown directly from seed sown as
early in spring as the soil can be gotten in good order. This
crop can easily be grown in the South, too, and it is far cheaper
to grow them from seed than from sets. Even when planted in
spring the onion sets are apt to run to seed, especially if large.

The kinds that are grown from spring-sown seed are the
New England varieties such as the Southport White, Yellow
or Red Globe, the Danvers Yellow Globe and the Red Wethers-
field. ‘To make good onions directly from seed the earlier they

40 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

can be sown the better. If the soil can be gotten in good order
in February that will be the best time to sow in the South in
general, and never later than early March. The seed are sown
with a garden seed drill in rows 16 inches apart and worked
with the hand wheel cultivator or the Norcross cultivator hoe.
They must be thinned to 3 inches, and every weed and sprig of
grass kept strictly out of the rows. When the tops turn yellow-
ish and tend to fall over, the crop should be pulled and let lie
in the sun all day, but before night spread out in a warm place
under cover. Let them cure with the tops on and do not re-
move the tops till wanted for use or sale. Before cold weather
get them into a perfectly dark outhouse and do not pile thickly.
If the building is tight, what frost may get in will do no harm,
for it is better to have a little freezing than to get them warm
and sprouting. Where intended for sale they should be sold
as soon as cured so as to get in ahead of the Northern crop.

The White Multiplier is similar to the Yellow Potato onion
in that it never makes seed but increases by offsets at the root.
It never makes a large onion, but makes fine white pickling
onions and good onions for bunching green. It is the best
keeper of any onion. I have kept them all winter in a heap on
a barn floor and did not lose an onion.

Onion Sets—Sets of the New England varieties are
grown from seed sown especially for this purpose. The seed
are sown very thickly in rows 16 inches apart, as much as 50
pounds of seed being sown on an acre, where they are grown
on a large scale. Most of the onion sets on the market are
grown in Illinois, but for eastern planting the western sets are
not as good as the home-grown ones, for in the East they tend
to make long thick-necked scallions rather than good bulbs.
Hence, if the gardener in the South Atlantic section wishes to
plant sets, he had better grow them himself.

The seed should be sown in good garden soil which has
been manured for other crops, but no special fertilization is
used on such soils, as we do not want the bulbs to grow too
large. About the size of a boy’s playing marble is the proper
dimension, and hence we sow the seed very thickly. Sow the
seed early in April and the sets will ripen in late June. The
tops are then sheared off and the onions taken up and cured,

PARSNIPS ay

generally in trays exposed to the sun and taken in at night.
These can then be replanted in September or kept in a cold
place for early planting in spring. They can be culled by using
a sieve with openings large enough to let the very small ones
through, and keeping the good ones in. Then the very small
sets can be sown thinly like seed to make onions while the good-
sized sets are planted 3 inches apart as heretofore directed.

Onions (Spanish and Italian)—The large Spanish, Italian
and Bermuda varieties of onions can be grown by sowing the
seed in January in a cold frame under glass sashes, and when
the plants are as stout as a lead pencil in March, transplant
just like sets, nipping the tops and roots slightly. These plants
will make the large onions often seen in crates, each onion
weighing a pound or more. ‘The varieties for this method are
the Prizetaker, Denia, Giant Gibraltar, Mammoth Pompeii and
some others, as well as the white and pink Bermudas. The Ber-
muda onion can be grown directly from seed sown in the open
ground early in spring, but are grown earlier by the transplant-
ing method. In the lower South sow seed in September and
transplant when large enough.

nieateaths Se

Lee PSE ORE Fa i pe a a

iihese roots are too ance neglected in ra South. Pars-
nips make a fine addition to the winter table. They can be eaten
freshly boiled or the boiled roots can be sliced and fried, and
being perfectly hardy they can remain in the rows where grown
till wanted for use. Parsnip seed are light and chaffy, and are
sometimes hard to germinate, especially in soil that crusts much.
I have found that the best way to get a stand is to plant a small
pinch of seed in a place about 4 inches apart in the row and
make the rows 20 inches apart. Then the little bunches can be
easily thinned. But do not handle parsnip leaves when wet, for
if the wet leaves touch parts of the wrist usually covered by
clothing, they will cause troublesome blisters.

As to varieties, there is really but one, the Hollow Crown.
A variation of this called the Student differs only in having
shorter roots. The general directions in the seed catalogues
call for sowing the seed as early in spring as the soil can be

42 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

worked. This is all right in the North, but in the longer-grow-
ing season in the South this early sowing will result in over-
grown and somewhat woody roots. Better sow in June, and get
smaller but tender roots. In fact, they will keep growing in the
South till mid-winter and make their best growth in the fall
months. Sow one ounce to 200 feet of row.

Parsley

Every housekeeper wants parsley leaves for garnishing
the dishes and to flavor soups and meats. The seed should be
sown rather thickly on a border in rows a foot apart. Sow
very early in spring, for the seed are slow to germinate and
need the soil to be moist. A bed will run through summer, fall,
winter and early spring of the second year before running to
seed. Hence, it is best to sow a bed every spring to take the
place of the one that is running to seed.

The more completely the leaves are curled the better, and
it is therefore desirable to save seed from a plant of the most
intensely curled character, and prevent any plain-leaved plants
from seeding. Fresh seed is very important and it is desirable
to save some in the home garden. ‘The best variety is the
Champion Moss Curled.

Peas

Peas (Garden)—Most people are fond of peas and every-
body likes to get them earlier than his neighbors. All the seeds-
men offer special varieties of the ‘extra early” peas. Formerly
these were all selected strains of the old Early Kent, a yellow
seeded pea. But of late years the greenish seeded Alaska type
has prevailed, and while every seedsman claims to have the best
strain of extra early peas, they all belong to the Alaska type.
Some may be purer to type than others, but all are very much
alike. I have found a variety called the Nonpareil to come in
as early as any I have tried.

But the very early peas are not of as high quality as those
that come in a little later and the very late ones. I always plant
a few of the extra early variety for beginning, but depend
mainly on the later peas of better quality, those with wrinkled

|
|

a

PEAS 43
seed. Some of these are now quite early and | find that by
sowing the very dwarf sorts like Sutton’s Excelsior and Thomas
Laxton that they come into use before the Nonpareil are all
too old for use; and there are a number of the later and taller
sorts that are of high quality, while the oldest of these, the
Champion of England, is one of the best.

The early and dwarf sorts need no support, but the tall
late ones must have something to climb on. I plant them along
a woven wire fence or stretch a 5-foot width of chicken wire
for them to run on. The growers who plant largely for mar-
ket plant only the extra early sorts which give their whole crop
at once and early, for the later peas would come into competi-
tion with the extra early ones north of us. But for home use
the wrinkled seeded peas are far better and larger.

Peas do not need large applications of nitrogen, but do
need plenty of phosphoric acid, and should have a liberal ap-
plication of acid phosphate to supplement the stable manure
usually applied to gardens. I use very fine ground bone meal
and find it good.

Chicken wire of various widths is the cheapest and best
support for peas or beans or any climbing plants. For the va-
rieties of medium height the 3-foot w idth is sufficient, and for
tall sorts like the Champion of England the 5-foot width is
best. Even the extra early peas will be a little better off with
a 2-foot width of the wire, though it is common to let these
grow without support.

The time for sowing the extra early peas will vary, of
course, with one’s climate. In the light sandy soils of the east-
ern coast section, the time to get them in the ground is the first
good weather after New Year's day. The later peas, of the
wrinkled class, should not be sown so early, as they are apt to
rot in the ground in cold weather. But they can be sown in
late February and early March. Much later sowing than the
middle of March will be liable to be caught by the hot weather
and prove a failure. The dwarf extra early peas can be sown
in rows 3 feet apart, while the taller ones will need a 4-foot
space between the rows.

44 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK
Peppers

Considerable interest has arisen in the crop of sweet green
peppers which many market growers have found profitable for
northern markets. For this early crop, the seed are sown in a
hotbed under glass in February and transplanted to frames
under sashes, like tomato plants, to harden for setting out after
frost is over. For home use they are mainly desired for stuff-
ing for pickles in the fall. Seed sown in a bed in the open will
give plants that will fruit well at pickling time.

Pepper should be planted in heavily manured garden soil in
rows 214 feet apart and about 18 inches in the rows. The va-
rieties that have been generally used are the Ruby King and
the Neapolitan. The only difference is that the Neapolitan
holds its fruit more upright than the Ruby King, on which the
peppers hang down. ‘The Chinese Giant has come into use in
some sections, and | have grown them, but can find no advan-
tage in them. The pods are too large and ungainly, and the
plants are not so productive as the Ruby King.

A pepper somewhat newly introduced is the Pimiento, a
Spanish variety. This does not have wrinkled pods like the
others, but is perfectly smooth and of a bluntly conical form.
It is thick fleshed and the sweetest of peppers, having not a
trace of fire init. It has become popular for canning. It is a
very productive pepper, and will be likely to supersede the
others as people get acquainted with its quality. By starting
the plants early under glass this variety will give green pods
by the last of June or early July, and plants sown in the open
ground will furnish pods till frost.

Potatoes—lIrish

The Irish potato crop is one of the crops that are bet-
ter adapted to the outer truck patch and horse culture than
to the enclosed garden. Every farmer should produce plenty
of these potatoes not only for home use all the year through,
but as a source of profit in his local market. I do not advise
farmers as a rule to attempt truck crops for northern shipment.
This is a business in itself, and demands the whole time and

IRISH POTATOES 45

attention of the grower, and the man engaged in general farm-
ing cannot give the truck crops the proper attention.

A mellow sandy loam, on which a crop of cowpeas has
been grown and turned under in the early fall, and rye sown
on the land in September so as to make a good fall growth and
to have quite a mat of rye to turn under in February, will make
an ideal preparation for the early potato crop. Some slight
acidity from the organic decay will make conditions unfavor-
able to the scab fungus. While I would not say that acid condi-
tions in the soil are best for the potato crop, they are less favor-
able to the growth of the scab, and the use of lime, while per-
haps favoring a larger crop of potatoes, will also make condi-
tions favorable to the scab, and a fair crop of clean potatoes is
worth more than a large crop of scabby ones.

If some old rotten manure is available it may be profitably
spread broadcast before turning under the rye, but do not put
fresh stable manure in the furrows, as that, too, will encourage
the scab. High-grade commercial fertilizers will make the clean-
est crop, though I have made fine crops from manure spread
broadcast in the fall and only acid phosphate used in the fur-
rows in spring.

There is no early crop on which the truck growers are
more lavish in the use of fertilizers, for the crop coming off
early leaves a residual effect that will give a large crop of corn
after the potatoes are dug, though if the future improvement
of the soil is looked after it would be better to sow peas after
the potatoes, and use them for hay to feed stock and make ma-
nure, and follow the peas with crimson clover, which can be
turned under the next spring to make a heavy crop of sweet
potatoes. Usually it is the practice to use a large percentage
of potash in the fertilizer for the early Irish potatoes.

For early potatoes I would make the furrows rather shal-
low and 2% feet apart. We need the early warmth of the sun
and hence should plant rather shallow. Cut the potatoes to two
eyes and drop 15 inches apart in the furrows, after mixing the
fertilizer in the furrow by running a bull-tongue through.

Cover with a furrow from each side and at once harrow
level in order to start them earlier. As soon as the plants ap-
pear, run the weeder over the field to loosen the crust and de-

46 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

stroy germinating weeds. Then cultivate rapidly with the cul-
tivator and lay by with a plow or a broad sweep as blooms ap-
pear, hilling well.

As to varieties, the market growers in the South Atlantic
region use the Irish Cobbler almost exclusively. Farther west,
the Triumph is still largely grown, and some still plant Early
Rose and Early Ohio. ‘The Pride of the South or White Bliss
Triumph is a good variety, and better for family use than the
Irish Cobbler.

Late Crop Potatoes—It has been the practice to grow a
second crop from seed of the early crop, but since the use of
the Irish Cobbler has become so common it has been found that
it is less adapted to this use than the Triumph or the Early
Rose, and the uncertainty of the crop has led to the use of seed
potatoes that have been kept over from the previous fall in cold
storage.

For making the late crop it is better to use these early va-
rieties that have been kept in cold storage than try to make a
second crop from seed of the early one. While there are many
very good late varieties of potatoes, as a rule I consider it bet-
ter to use the early varieties from cold storage for growing the
late crop, because they will not only make a good winter supply,
but will make the best of seed for planting the early crop in the
spring.

For a regular late potato many now use the Lookout Moun-
tain, which I have never grown. I have found that the Sir
Walter Raleigh, while not so heavy a cropper as some, is a
potato of fine quality. The late crop can be planted at any time
from the middle of June to the middle of July, and in the far
South, even later. In fact, once, in a very late fall, I made a
good crop of Early Rose potatoes that did not appear above
ground till September, but frost held off that fall till Decem-
ber Ist.

For growing the late crop, conditions are very different
from those present with the early crop. We have to look care-
fully after the soil moisture in the dry and hot weather usually
present in late summer and fall. Hence, instead of planting
shallow and hilling up I plant in deep furrows, cover very shal-
low till they start, and then work the soil to them as they grow

RADISHES 47

till level. Cultivate shallow and level to keep a dust blanket on
the surface to conserve moisture in the soil and do not hill up
to dry out. Keep the cultivator running rapidly and frequently
till they bloom. This crop will grow till cut down by frost, and
when this takes place the crop should be dug at once, and
stored in a totally dark cellar or buried outside with earth—
covering enough to keep out frost. Heat and light are dam-
aging, and the nearer we can keep the potatoes only a few
degrees above the freezing point and the darker the storage
place the better they will keep.

I have grown the second crop from seed of the early crop
in the following way: Let them mature and dig. Then cut
them at once in halves, spread out and cover with pine straw,
keeping that moist. Then plant them as they sprout and do not
plant any that have not sprouted. Plant deep and cover shal-
low as advised above.

Careful experiments have shown that the late grown crop
of the early varieties makes the best seed for spring planting.
The seed potatoes grown in Maine have developed so much
disease that crops grown from them are always infested with
the black shank disease and may bring us the powdery mildew,
a far worse disease. A late crop grown from the cold storage
seed will produce a better and more healthy crop in the South.

Radishes

The early radishes are a crop for the cool spring weather.
Then there are later summer varieties, but these are little
grown, though useful at times. Then, too, there are the large
winter sorts like the Celestial and the Red Chinese which are
sown in the fall and make roots of immense size. To grow the
early radishes the soil must be made very rich, for to be good
they must grow quickly. The earliest crop can be grown by
sowing seed early in January in a cold frame in alternate rows
with early beets. These will come in early in March. ‘Then
seed can be sown in the open garden as early in February as the
soil can be gotten in good order, and as the early turnip-rooted
varieties soon become pithy it is better to sow again in March
and again in April.

48 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

Then, if the summer varieties are wanted, sow again in
early May. ‘The winter varieties are sown in September, and
if well mulched with manure between the rows they will keep
good all winter.

As to varieties, the White-Tipped Early Turnip-Rooted is
as good as any, and the White Strasburg and Chartier for
summer. For winter the Celestial and the Scarlet China sown
in September. The Celestial is a very large white radish and is
excellent boiled like turnips, making a dish better than turnips.
The old Chinese Rose Colored winter radish has been super-
seded by the Scarlet China.

Rhubarb

On dry upland in the South, rhubarb is very uncertain and
apt to die out. The best variety is the Linnaeus. Plant the
roots 3x3 feet in rich moist soil and mulch heavily with ma-
nure in spring and summer to retain the moisture and promote
the growth of the crop. Rhubarb needs heavy and constant
manuring to make good stalks. After four years growth in
one place it is best to lift the roots and divide and replant in
fresh soil.

Rhubarb can be kept in winter more easily than almost any
other vegetable. The stalks are simply cut in small pieces and
packed in fruit jars and then cold water enough poured in to
fill the jar and the top fastened down. It keeps in this way
till the fresh crop comes in the spring.

Salsify

Salsify is also known as “oyster plant,” as the roots boiled
and made into cakes and fried taste very much like fried oys-
ters. They are good, too, when simply stewed. Salsify is one
of the earliest crops planted in the North, but in the South
should not be planted before June or in the lower South in
July. If planted early it is apt to run to seed. The seed are
planted rather thinly in rows 16 inches apart and thinned very
little, as they will develop to full size when only an inch apart.

Salsify makes its best growth in the cool fall weather and
will grow on through the greater part of the winter, being per-

SPINACH—SQUASH 49

fectly hardy. They need a deep loose soil so that the long roots
may run down straight without getting forked. They are at
their best after frost, and can be taken up for use.all winter and
till they start to grow again in spring. Do not take up more at
a time than are to be used, for the roots will soon wilt.

Spinach

Spinach is one of the best of winter greens, and can be
had in constant use from early fall till late spring. The only
variety worth sowing is the round-seeded Norfolk Savoy. The
catalogues offer the prickly-seeded variety, but it is little used
except sometimes for spring sowing.

We make the first sowing in late August in rows 16 inches
apart in heavily fertilized soil. This is for use in the fall. An-
other sowing is made the middle of September to keep up the
supply till Christmas and New Year’s.

In the upper South make a sowing early in October to
winter over for late winter and early spring cutting. In the
lower South make this sowing early in November.

Spinach must be grown rapidly to be good, and heavy fer-
tilization is neded. Being very hardy, it will furnish greens all
winter. In cutting, the plant should be cut entirely to the
ground. The crop is largely grown around Norfolk, Virginia,
for shipping in barrels north.

Squash

The squashes or cymlings commonly grown in the South
are the early summer bush varieties. The hard shell or winter
squashes seldom do well in the South except in the mountain
section. They are popular in the North, but in the South we
can do with our soft yam sweet potatoes all that they do with
the winter squashes in the North—and better, we think.

The Early White Bush or Pattypan is one of the best and
most generally used of summer squash. There is also a bush
of similar growth with yellow colored squashes. Both are good.
Then there is the long yellow crookneck squash which is also
good.

50 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

Plant the summer sorts in well-manured hills 4 feet each
way. ‘The winter varieties will need as much room as water-
melons or pumpkins. Squashes are apt to be attacked by the
striped or spotted beetles as soon as they come through the
ground. Keep the plants covered with tobacco dust as soon as
they appear or fine dust of any sort. The tobacco dust is best,
as it also helps the growth of the plants.

The winter squashes (Beston, Marrow and Hubbard being
the best varieties) do as well in the cornfield as pumpkins do,
but if planted early, in the warmer parts of the South, the
squashes are apt to rot on the vines. Planted in July, they may
succeed.

Tomatoes

There is no garden vegetable more generally used and cul-
tivated than the tomato, and the varieties grown are innumer-
able. During the last forty years there has been great improve-
ment made in the character of the fruit of the tomato. Before
then we had large solid varieties but very rough and irregular
in form. We also had a smooth tomato that was very hollow
and seedy. The first effort to make a solid and smooth tomato
was in the Trophy, sent out about forty years ago by the late
Col. George Waring, who was generally noted as a civil en-
gineer. He became interested in the improvement of the to-
mato, and announced that he had succeeded in putting the old
Mexican Chihuahua tomato into a smooth skin. He called it
the ae and advertised the seed at twenty for $5. I paid
the $5 early in January and got the seed. I sowed them at
once in my greenhouse, and seventeen of them came up. Then
they were potted, and as fast as they grew I took cuttings,
rooted them, and by planting them in spring I had 150 plants i in
pots. I sold eighteen of these for 50 cents each, and planted
the remainder. From these I saved seed and planted a large
field the following season; and the crop was a very remunera-
tive one.

Since then we have had new varieties of tomatoes offered
by the seedsmen year after year. Being interested in tomatoes
I have tested most of the varieties brought out. Every season
some seedsman claims that he has the eaehest ever, but there

TOMATOES 51

has been very little advance in earliness since the introduction
of Maule’s Earliest. [Then came Sparks’ FEarliana, which
seemed to be identical with Maule’s Earliest, and both were
rather rough in form. But the seedsmen have been at work on
these, and now the Langdon Earliana is as smooth as any. Still
later, the Bonny Best came out, and is a much better and more
meaty variety than the Earliana, also having the valuable qual-
ity of continuing in fruit longer than the Earliana, which ripens
its whole crop early and quits. The Earliana is valuable for
the market grower on this account, but for the home garden the
Bonny Best is now the best early tomato, being but a few days
later than Earliana, and far better in quality.

For the earliest tomatoes I now use only the Bonny Best,
and it not only gives me early fruit, but keeps bearing till the
later sorts are well under way in fruiting. For the main or
late canning crop the Stone is universally used, but for the
home garden I prefer Success, Red Rock, Globe, and Missis-
sippi Girl.

To have tomatoes early the plants must be forwarded un-
der glass and several times transplanted to make them strong.
The time for sowing is about ten weeks before the time for
setting out in any locality. I sow the seed in shallow boxes in
my greenhouses. As soon as they are large enough to handle,
they are either transplanted to other boxes and given more
room or are set in flower pots of the 2%-inch size. Later, the
plants are set in cold frames under glass sashes 4 inches apart
each way, and are then exposed to the air in all warm and
sunny weather, so as to gradually harden them to the air, till
the stems assume a purplish color instead of the tender green.
I take up the plants with a garden trowel and a mass of soil,
setting them in holes filled with water and pulling the dry earth
around them. ‘Treated in this way they seldom wilt at all.
Then, if frost threatens, I bend the plants over and cover them
with the soil till the cold passes. I once carried them through
a freeze that dropped to 21 degrees in this way.

Where there is no greenhouse it is best to sow the seed
in a hotbed under glass sashes, and from this transplant them
to the cold frames. But do not let them get crowded and drawn
up slender in the hotbed, for such plants will be little better

52 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

than those sown outside. They must be transplanted to get
stout and strong. Seed can also be sown in a shallow box in
a sunny window of a warm room, transplanted into another
box or boxes with several inches of room, and finally set in a
frame covered with cloth to harden off.

In the heat of late June and July, the early tomatoes are
apt to fail and make inferior fruit. To provide against this, I
sow seed thinly in the open ground early in April to get strong
plants, set these out to succeed the early ones as they fail, and
when these come in, I clean out the early plants. Then, I make
the third sowing outside about the first of June so as to have
plants that will come in with their best fruit in September and
October. I also like to have an abundance of well-grown green
tomatoes when frost threatens. These are then gathered,
wrapped in paper and stored in crates in the cellar. Some are
brought into the kitchen window every few days to ripen up,
and in this way I have had a constant supply for slicing for the
table till January.

I plant the early tomatoes in rows 3 feet apart and 2 feet
apart in the rows. A stake is set to each plant, the plants
trained up to a single stem and tied loosely to the stakes. All
side shoots are kept pinched out, and in this way we get the
earliest fruit. ‘The later sowing I set 4 feet each way and allow
them to take their natural growth on the ground.. A good
mulch of pine straw between the rows, after the plants have
gotten to be a good size and before they fall over, will keep
them off the ground and will help keep down the crab grass.

Tomatoes need a fertile soil but not too much nitrogen,
which causes too rank a growth of vine. They need plenty of
acid phosphate, and where stable manure is not available, an
equal mixture of cottonseed meal and acid phosphate will be
the best fertilizer.

The Colorado potato beetle will sometimes destroy the
plants in the outdoor seedbed if not watched, and spraying with
lead arsenate is advisable. ‘This mixed in bordeaux mixture
will keep off the leaf blight as well. (Refer to the chapter on
“Plant Diseases and Insects” elsewhere in this book.) If you
find a big green tobacco worm on your plants with little white
sacks all over it, do not destroy that worm, for it will soon die

TURNIPS—-WATERMELONS 53

and the little white sacks will hatch out spotted lady bugs
to lay eggs and destroy more worms, for the little lady bug is
one of the best friends of the gardener.

Turnips

The rutabaga turnip and the Large White French or Rock
turnip should be sown in July. Run out furrows, fertilize
well, bed, flatten the beds half way, and sow the seed in a row
on the bed. Thin out to 4 inches apart, as these grow quite
large. The best variety is the American Purple Top.

In mid-August sow some of the early Milan turnips for
early fall use. These turnips grow very quickly and are useful
in the early fall, though they soon get pithy.

For the main crop, sow in September the Strap Leaf pur-
ple top, Purple Top Globe and Yellow Aberdeen. ‘This last is
one of the finest of turnips for winter use. They are best taken
up and covered with enough earth to keep out frost.

For greens, sow Seven Top turnips in September and pro-
tect in winter with some green pine bushes. The Milan turnips
can also be sown in late February for spring use.

Turnips are best sown in rows and thinned, but the Seven
Top can be sown broadcast for greens.

Watermelons

These are more a crop for the field or the truck patch than
for the family garden, for they need more room than any of the
so-called garden plants. Large growers for northern shipment
prepare their land early in winter and check it out 8x 10 feet
and place half a bushel of manure in each check. Then in
spring they add a handful of good fertilizer and make up the
hill and plant. Nitrate of soda is used around the hills as with
cantaloupes, and the field is sown to crimson clover when the
melons form. The variety now generally grown for market is
the Tom Watson. This is a very long green-rind melon of
very good quality, and has almost superseded the poor quality
Kolb’s Gem so long grown for northern shipment.

54 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

For home use I like the Mclver Sugar melon. This is a
striped melon, in shape somewhat between Cuban Queen and
Georgia Kattlesnake. It is a very sweet melon and has the val-
uable quality of never cracking in the centre. Maule’s All-
Heart is also a good melon. It has very small seed, not much
larger than an apple seed. ‘The rind is very thin and the melon
sweet and good.

In the South the so-called pickle worm often attacks both
cantaloupes and watermelons. ‘The preventive is to spray with
lead arsenate 1 pound to 30 gallons of water and get it well
under the young melons. Rust or blight also should be avoided
by spraying with bordeaux mixture, and the poison can be used
with this.

III.—WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN EACH MONTH

JANUARY

HE, EXTRA early varieties of garden peas of the Alaska

type should be planted the first opportunity for getting

the soil in proper order. Open furrows 3 feet apart and

sow the peas in a somewhat broad ribbon rather than a single

direct row and cover 4 to 5 inches deep. Among the improved

strains of the Alaska type I have found the Nonpareil one of

the best. Do not sow the wrinkled peas so early, as they are

apt to rot in the ground. ‘The date for these will be stated
later.

The Broad Windsor bean can be planted early in the
month, as it is very hardy, will not stand hot weather, and hence
must be gotten in early. This class of bean is not much grown in
this country, but is popular in England, where they cannot
grow our lima beans outside.

In the frames under glass, in soil very heavily manured
and fertilized, sow seed of early Egyptian beets and early tur-
nip-rooted radishes in alternate rows 6 inches apart. In the
warmer section near the coast these can be sown under cotton
cloth, but will not be as early as under glass. By the first of
March, the radishes will be out, and the beets can be hardened
off gradually and the glass removed to other frames to harden
the early tomato plants.

Lettuce of the Big Boston variety can now be set in the
frames for early spring crop. It is best not to use the same
frames that have grown the Christmas crop, as there will be
more disease. Have extra frames for this crop.

Sow seed of the Prizetaker onion in frame under glass or
cloth. Sow rather thinly in order to get good plants. These
should be about the size of a lead pencil in early March for
transplanting to the open ground. These plants set in heavily
enriched soil will make very large onions. The Giant Gibraltar
onion is also a very large variety and can be well grown in this
way.

55

56 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

Sow seed of the Charleston Wakefield cabbage in a frame
to succeed the cabbage grown from fall-planted seed. These,
too, should be large enough to set in March. Copenhagen Mar-
ket is also good.

The last week in the month, prepare a hotbed with glass
sashes for sowing early tomato seed. This hotbed need not be
very large, for two sashes 3 x 6 feet will start plants for a con-
siderable area in the frames for hardening them off. The time
for sowing tomato seed in any locality is about ten weeks before
it is usually safe for setting them in the open ground. Hence,
January and February are the months for starting the seed.
If you have no hotbed, you can start plants for the home gar-
den very well in boxes of rich soil in a sunny window. As
soon as the plants put on a pair of the rough leaves, transplant
them 2 inches apart in other boxes and in early March set them
4 inches apart in a frame covered with cloth, where they will
grow strong and can be gradually hardened off to the outer air
and transplanted.

Seed of peppers and egg plant can also be grown in the
same way, but it is better to defer the sowing of the egg plant
seed till the middle of February, as they are very tender.

Keep the garden clear of chickenweed and the henbit—a
plant with little purple flowers—as these are winter weeds and
seed very early in spring. They can be cleaned out entirely if
destroyed in the winter. In fact, keep the garden clean all the
year round.

In the Flower Garden

Place orders for shrubbery now. A few words about the
best kinds may not be out of place here.

The spirea Van Houttii, called Bridal Wreath, is sim-
ply a mass of snowy bloom in spring. Then, as soon as the
flowers fade, I take my hedge shears and shear off all the
blooming shoots and the bush then puts out a strong mass of
shoots for the next season. This spirea makes a very beautiful
ornamental hedge. We have one here that is a great show in
spring and not at all ugly when not in bloom.

The common althea is one of the best summer blooming
shrubs and keeps it up long after other shrubs have faded.

GARDEN WORK FOR JANUARY 57

Mine always bloom from July till frost. There are many colors
of this plant and some with double flowers. They are rapidly
grown from seed. I grew plants from a pure white variety
and the plants have made lilac colored flowers with crimson
centre, and the plant constantly varies in this way.

Crape myrtles of course we all want. There is now a great
variety of shades in the bloom from almost crimson to pure
white, and one with white flowers with purple blotch on the
lower petals. You can cut around an old plant with a sharp
spade and new plants will start from the cut roots, which can
be dug and transplanted. They may also be grown from seed,
for I have grown hundreds in that way, and got some im-
proved forms. I have had seedlings in bloom by the time they
were a foot high or less. The seed had best be sowed as soon
as ripe, as it is a little harder to start when kept till spring.

Spirea Anthony Waterer is also a continuous summer and
fall blooming plant and its rosy, carmine flowers are very pretty.
The old calycanthus or Sweet Betsy, every one wants, and while
the flowers are not showy, they make it up in fragrance. Deut-
zias are also fine from the little dwarf deutzia Gracilis to the
great bushes of deutzia Crenata, double and single.

The first thing to bloom in spring is spirea Thumbergii.
The flowers are white, and even after the bloom is off the
feathery foliage is very pretty.

Then, in addition to these shrubs that are hardy every-
where, we can grow many things in the South that do not thrive
in the North. The magnolia fuscata, or banana shrub is small
but very sweet.

In the warmer coast section the cape jessamine or gardenia
thrives, and all the Chinese azaleas and the camellia japonica.
The half hardy evergreen shrubs do better where shaded from
the morning sun in winter. The camellia thrives from Raleigh
southward as well as the azaleas. ‘he Chinese sweet olive, too,
is a hardy and attractive shrub with its little fragrant flowers.
Then the holly-leaved osmanthus makes a rapid growing and
beautiful shrub so like a holly that many mistake it for one.

The Portugal laurels are also splendid evergreens. Some
of these have leaves so large that most people pass them for

58 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

our common magnolia. ‘Then, too, there are eleagnus, some
bushes and others trailing vines with golden variegated leaves.
Sow such slow-germinating seeds as lobelia, centaurea,
salvia, etc., for bedding plants next spring.
Some of the narcissi will force very well now. Princeps,
Golden Spur, and Single Trumpet Major are good. The double
sorts will do better forced a month later.

If you want snapdragons for making early flower beds,
sow the seed now.

If candytuft and mignonette seed are sown this month they
will bloom early in the spring.

Sweet peas should also go in 1f not planted in the late fall.
It is essential to have these early to get any bowers in the
Southern climate. Make a deep trench and fill it half full of
rotten manure, cover with soil, and plant the seed not too
thickly, but an inch or two apart. Cover lightly till they ger-
minate and then pull the soil to them so as to get the roots well
into the soil to prevent damage from dry weather. Then give
them a width of chicken wire netting to climb on.

GARDEN WORK FOR FEBRUARY 59
FEBRUARY

ITH the advancing sun there is a great deal to do in
the garden in February. ‘The lettuce in the frames
will need careful attention, and if you are growing it

under cloth, you should expose it to the sun every mild day,
for the shade of the cloth will draw the plants up weakly.

Sow seed of tomatoes, egg plant and peppers as directed
in January. As soon as the soil can be worked in good condi-
tion you can sow seed of early beets, Egyptian and Eclipse be-
ing about the best for early sowing. Early French carrots can
also be sown in the latter half of the month. Sow Norfolk
Savoy spinach in well-enriched soil in rows 15 inches apart to
follow the sowing made in October. The latter part of the
month sow chard in rows like beets. This is a sort of beet that
makes immense tops, which are used for greens. It is the best
substitute for spinach in hot weather.

Get the early Irish potatoes in the ground by the middle
of the month. In the lower South this should be done in late
January or the first of February. If the potatoes are spread
out in a light and warm place before time for planting, so that
they start sprouts, it will increase the earliness of the crop.

The middle of the month sow the late wrinkled peas. Of
the dwarf varieties that do not need sticking, the Thomas Lax-
ton and Sutton’s Excelsior are good; and for a tall pea which
needs some support, the old Champion of England is unsur-
passed. I grow these on a wire fence, for a 5-foot width of
chicken wire netting is a good support and cheaper than cutting
brush. It can also be rolled up in winter and put away, and
with this treatment will last indefinitely.

The hardy weeds will be starting. Keep the garden clean.
Sow a bed of parsley. Let run two seasons and then go to
seed to be followed by another bed.

Sow leek this month in the lower South.
In the Flower Garden

Plant the bulbs or corms of the gladiolus. If you have a
number of these you can make a series of plantings from Feb-

60 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

ruary to May so as to have a succession of the flowers till
August.

Sow seed of the annual phlox drummondii if you sowed
none in the fall. Fall sowing is best, for the plants will winter
very well and will bloom earlier and better than from spring
sowing.

The Japanese lilies of the Speciosum type can also be
planted. ‘These are the Rubrum, Roseum and Album and the
great golden-striped lily Auratum. Bulbs of the Bermuda and
Japan Longiflorum lilies that have been kept in cold storage
can be planted now and will make fine flowers in the open
ground.

Pansy seed are best sown in late summer and set out in
the fall so that they will bloom early in spring, but if none were
sown then they will do fairly well sown now in a frame and
transplanted later. For early flowers, make the first sowing of
China aster seed. I sow these under a grape arbor, as they
germinate better there. They are very easy to transplant if
dropped into a basin of water as soon as lifted and set with the
roots dripping wet.

Spanish and Japanese iris can also be planted now. The
Japanese make wonderfully beautiful flowers, but demand a
soil naturally moist, or where they can be regularly irrigated,
for they will not thrive in very dry soil. German iris, too, can
now be planted. Their flowers are larger than the Spanish,
but not so delicate and varied.

Canna beds, that were left last fall without lifting, but
covered with the dead tops and leaves, should be taken up the
latter part of this month, divided and replanted. Heavy ma-
nuring will make a great difference in the growth of these, and
plenty of water, too, will greatly help them. The rhizomes of
the cannas will keep better in winter in the well-covered beds
than if lifted in the fall. but they should be lifted in spring to
prevent getting the beds too crowded. ‘The newer sorts of
cannas make gorgeous heads of bloom and are very showy.

Make provision for some roses in your garden plans and
order from your nurseryman now for delivery when time to
plant.

GARDEN WORK FOR MARCH 61
MARCH

W the coming of March the garden work becomes

more insistent and no time should be lost. Of course,

there are many things that we have suggested for
February which can still be done, especially in the northern sec-
tions of the South.

In the lower South the planting of the more tender veg-
etables will begin, and even in eastern North Carolina one can
risk some snap beans in the ground the latter part of the month.
The most hardy of these is the Black Valentine, and a good
plan is to run small ridges east and west and plant the rows
along the south side of the ridge to be sheltered from the cold
winds when small. If frost threatens after they are up it is
easy to take a little garden hand plow and throw a furrow over
them to be removed after the cold is past.

If you failed to sow beets and plant potatoes in February,
lose no time in getting them in now.

Get the tomato plants that were started in early February
into a frame where they can be protected from frost at night
and fully exposed in sunny days. Set them 4 inches apart each
way, and do not keep the glass or cloth over them any more
than necessary to protect them from frost. We want to get
them into such a hardy condition that the stems of the plants
will take on a purplish color instead of green, showing that
they have been hardened to the air. Of course, in the lower
South where frost is over they can be set in the open ground,
but in most of the South this is not safe till early April, and
even then in the upper South we must look out for reverses.

When cold threatens, the plants can be protected in more
than one way. I have some cardboard protectors made in a
conical form which can easily be set over the plants; and I have
protected them by bending the plants over carefully and cover-
ing them with soil. One March, when we had very warm
weather early in the month and a return of cold down to 21
degrees on the 26th of the month, I had my early tomato plants
out, but saved them in this way. The earlier we get tomato
plants out, and get them to live, the earlier the fruiting will be.

Prepare the land for cucumbers, squash and cantaloupes

62 MASSEY'S GARDEN BOOK

by running furrows 5 feet apart, and putting well-rotted ma-
nure into them and then a good application of acid phosphate.
Bed on this ready for planting in early April. We plant all
these in rows and thin out to hills after a stand is secured.

Bed sweet potatoes the last of the month.

Sow seed of the Wonderful and Hanson lettuce on a warm
border the first of the month to make plants to set in beds later.
These varieties stand the warm weather of late spring far bet-
ter than the Big Boston that is grown in the frames in winter.
Set in very heavily enriched soil and treat with some nitrate of
soda to push them along and they will make very large heads,
especially where it is practicable to water the beds. I set this
crop in beds 6 feet wide, the plants 10 inches apart each way,
and have known the Wonderful or Shellem lettuce to make
heads that weighed four pounds.

Late in the month sow some curled endive to take the place
of lettuce after the weather gets too hot for the lettuce. The
endive plants can be set just like lettuce and when the heads are
of good size tie the leaves together at the top to blanch the
heads or wrap stiff paper around them to be held in place with
a rubber band, leaving the top open.

The onion plants in the frame from January sowing can
now be transplanted. Nip the roots and tops slightly and do
not plant more than an inch deep, as the bulbs should form
mainly on the surface. Sets of the Pearl and Silver Skin onion
may be planted in the early part of the month. and even good
onions can be grown direct from seed if sown early in the
month in very heavily enriched soil and properly thinned later.

Make trenches, manuring them as previously described,
for sowing seed of asparagus, using the Palmetto variety. Then
follow the directions given in this little book and you can grow
the finest of asparagus without any transplanting.

March is the best time to plant fig trees or to set cuttings
for growing more. Cuttings of last year’s shoots made about
ten inches long and set nearly full length in the soil will root
readily.

Pepper and egg plant seed may be sowed in boxes this
month and transplanted to small pots to keep growing. They

GARDEN WORK FOR MARCH 63

may be shifted to still larger pots, if necessary, and finally
planted out about the last of May when the soil is warm.

If you plant any corn this month, try the Norfolk Market
variety. This is not a sugar corn, but a very early dent. Sugar
corn is apt to rot in the cold ground in March, and hence for
March planting the Norfolk corn is best.

In the Flower Garden

Cutting of the hardy annual blooming roses of the re-
montant class and the Crimson Rambler class will now root
readily from the ripe wood grown last year. The tea roses are
better rooted in the fall. (For these see August and Sep-
tember. )

The beds of hyacinths and tulips which should have had a
mulch of rough manure in the fall should now have the mulch
raked off, as they are about to bloom, and it is necessary to
keep the soil clean.

The narcissus or daffodils will be in their prime early in
March, and all these can be lifted when their tops ripen and the
beds filled with summer plants.

The little red ever-blooming Vernon begonias are easily
raised from seed and make beautiful beds in summer, standing
heat and drought and always in bloom. The foliage turns a
bronzy red in the sun and there are white varieties that can be
grown as a border to the red ones. The seed are as fine as dust
and should be sown on the surface of some moist soil in a box
and a pane of glass placed over the box, and they will soon
start and make nice plants for bedding out after the tulips and
hyacinths are over.

Then if you do not want to lift the bulbs, you can plant
these between them and cut off the ripe tops of the bulbs. Then
there is a perfectly hardy tuberous begonia called Evansiana
which can be planted between the bulbs in the fall, and when
the tulips and hyacinths fade these will come up, make fine fo-
liage and a mass of pink flowers. Being perfectly hardy, they
can remain where planted all winter.

Some plant their dahlias early, but I think this is a mistake,
as they get to blooming in the hot weather and the flowers are

64 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

not so good as in the fall. Here I take up the dahlia roots after
frost, bury them in the garden and cover thickly with earth.
They will stand the winter outside in an ordinary winter, but
in a very cold one may get hurt. I defer planting these till
May and take up the roots and cut off the sprouts that are
starting to keep them from growing too early, for I want the
fine fall flowers.

The hardy perennial phlox makes the finest of all summer
bloom. Its colors range from pure white to purple and crim-
son and they make a fine show in the garden all summer
through.

Sow seed of scarlet sage in a well prepared bed the middle
of the month, and transplant to beds for blooming. The va-
riety called Zurich is about the best. Cuttings made in the fall
can be carried over in pots in winter and they root very easily
in moist boxes of sand. I carry some over in the greenhouse
to get cuttings from in early spring, as these bloom earlier than
the seedling plants.

GARDEN WORK FOR APRIL 65
APRIL
S OW SEED of onions to make sets for fall planting. Sow

very thickly in rows 15 inches apart in garden soil that

has been manured the year before, but do not fertilize the
onions, as we want them to grow only about the size of a boy’s
playing marble. Hence, sow very thickly and in fertile soil,
but do not push them with extra feeding.

In the upper South market gardeners will now plant their
main crop of snap beans. In the home garden, the best method
is to plant a row, and as soon as that row is well up and takes
on the rough leaves, plant another row and keep this up till
August or September so as to have a constant succession in
good shape for the table. The Black Valentine, for earliest,
should now be followed by better varieties such as Red Valen-
tine and Burpee’s Green Stringless. Tait’s Celestial is the best
of the wax beans.

Plant bush lima beans in rows just as we do the snap beans,
but rather thinly. Six inches apart in the row will be abun-
dantly thick to plant the Fordhook variety. This belongs to
the thick or potato lima class, and is far better for the South
than any of the large white lima beans, as these are always un-
productive south of the Potomac. The small lima or butter
bean is more productive in the South.

Set strong stakes and stretch a 5-foot width of chicken
wire netting with the lower edge a foot from the ground for the
climbing beans. Then you can plant them 2 feet apart in the
rows, make the rows 4 feet apart, and there will be a much
neater appearance in the garden than with poles. If the gar-
den is enclosed by a woven wire fence, as mine is, the fence
makes a fine place for climbing beans and tall late peas, and
saves room in the garden.

Having started the tomato plants for the early crop at the
proper time in February, and having transplanted them in
frames to get strong and hardy, they can now be set in the open
ground. Tt is far better to set stakes to each plant for the
early crop and train the plants to a single stem. The fruit will
ripen earlier and better than on the ground, and the plants can
be set closer, I make the rows 3 feet apart, set the plants 2

66 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

feet in the rows, and make the stakes 6 feet tall. Spraying with
bordeaux mixture should be done before the plants are taken
from the frames, again soon after they are set out, and repeated
every ten days till the tomatoes are half grown. This is to pre-
vent the leaf blight, and unless the spraying is done the plants
will soon be losing their lower leaves and the fruit will be in-
ferior. The mixture can now be had ready-made from seeds-
men with directions for use.

The egg plants should be kept under glass or cloth till the
weather and the soil are well warmed, for if these are set too
early they will get stunted and make poor plants.

Keep the onions absolutely clean. This is a crop one must
get right down to with hands and pull out every spear of grass
and weeds, for onions will not tolerate weeds. Pull the soil
away from them so that the bulbs will form on the surface
with only the roots in the ground. The offsets of the Yellow
Potato onion can be pulled for use as green onions, as they
clean up perfectly white. But enough of these should be left
to mature, as these are the sets for fall planting, since this onion
never makes seed.

If the white onions planted last fall from seed-grown sets
show signs of running to seed, nip out the seed shoot as soon
as seen and you can save the onion, for if this top is allowed
to grow, the onion will be hollow and worthless.

If not provided with frames for starting plants of the
Prizetaker, Giant Gibraltar and other large Spanish onions, you
can sow seed of these to make sets, and keep the ripe sets over
in a cold dark place for spring planting. They will make about
as large onions as the transplanted plants, but it takes longer to
get the crop.

The beds prepared last month for cucumbers and canta-
loupes should now be somewhat flattened and the seed drilled
in thinly along the beds. ‘Then when a stand is secured, thin
them to 20 inches in the rows. A tablespoonful of nitrate of
soda should be scattered around each hill. This will push them
along rapidly and increase the earliness of the crop. Keep
them absolutely clean till the vines cover the ground. Plant
watermelons in hills 8x 10 feet, putting a peck of well-rotted

GARDEN WORK FOR APRIL 67

manure in each hill, together with a handful of good fertilizer,
before hilling. Plant plenty of seed to insure a stand.

All these plants are apt to be attacked by the little striped
or speckled diabrotica beetles just as they come through the
soil. Watch the germination and keep the plants covered with
some dusty material. I use fine raw bone meal or tobacco dust.
This prevents the beetles and helps the plants at same time. But
anything that will keep the plants dusty will bother the beetles.
Spraying with lead arsenate 1 pound in 30 gallons of water
with a little corn syrup to make it stick will kill them.

Keep the early cabbages well cultivated till they head. Any
plant that does not promise to head with the earliest can be
made to go to heading by pulling it slightly till you hear some
roots crack.

Urge the cauliflowers with side dressing of nitrate of soda,
for it is important to head them before the weather gets hot.
When the heads appear turn some of the top leaves over them
to keep the sun off and you will get whiter heads.

Plant seed of okra in hills 2 feet apart and rows 3 feet
apart, dropping several seed in a hill; or plant in rows and chop
out just as you would cotton. Okra grows very slowly till the
weather gets hot, and it, too, is helped by side-dressings of
nitrate of soda.

The early outdoor lettuce will also be pushed on with ni-
trate of soda applied between the rows when the plants are dry,
but not touching the leaves. I have found that this can be best
applied in the garden by mixing it half and half with plaster.
When mixed a while beforehand the nitrate absorbs moisture
and the plaster absorbs it and the whole will get fine and more
easily applied than when the nitrate is in lumps.

Early in the month plant seed of sugar corn. The little
extra early varieties that are grown in the North seldom do
much in the South, and it is better to start at once with the
stronger growing varieties like Stowell Evergreen and Country
Gentleman. The Kendall Giant is earlier than these and is a
good variety.

Keep up a succession of the sugar corns till August. The
late plantings will be best for seed, as the ears will then be

68 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

more free from the boll worms. A few rows of early sugar
corn planted in the cotton fields will protect the cotton very
largely from the boll worms.

Early Milan turnips can still be sowed early in the month,
and if you have never tried spring-sowed turnips you will find
these a treat, and they sell, too.

Begin to spray the Irish potatoes as soon as they are well
up with bordeaux mixture in which 1% pounds of lead arse-
nate is added to 50 gallons of the bordeaux. Spray repeatedly
and thus ward off the blight and destroy the beetles at the same
time.

In thinning out the early beets it is best to transplant the
thinnings. They will come on for use a little later than those
left in the rows, but will keep up the supply till the late sowed
beets are ready.

Celery seed can be sowed about the middle of the month
and later.

Tomato seed are sowed outside in early April, and again
the last of May, using the later varieties. This is to keep up a
constant succession of good fruit and to have a lot of well-
grown green ones when frost comes in the fall to ripen in the
house.

The second sowing of peas of the better wrinkled sorts
should now be made to follow the early ones. I plant some of
the dwarf sorts like Sutton’s Excelsior and Laxtonian, and
also the old Champion of England.

Sweet potatoes can be set as soon as the danger from frost
is past.

Sow now a row of Lucullus chard, and you will have a
nice lot of greens equal to spinach all summer, for the leaves
can be pulled like rhubarb and they will keep on making leaves
till frost. | erote|

Sow curled endive to be transplanted later for heading, to
take the place of lettuce in hot weather. As the heads develop
{ have some cardboard plant protectors that fold in a conical
shape and are used to protect plants in spring. ‘These are set
over the endive plants to blanch them.

GARDEN WORK FOR APRIL 69

Everbearing strawberries have come to stay. One can
plant them in the spring and have fruit from July till Novem-
ber. There are three leading varieties—Superb, Americus, and
Progressive.

In the Flower Garden

As the tops of the bulbs of narcissus, hyacinths and tulips
ripen they can be taken up, cured and stored for fall planting,
or the tops can be cut off and the plants of China asters set be-
tween them.

You can get seed of the coleus, sow in ‘boxes in a sunny
window and can get a great variety of the colored leaves for
transplanting when the weather is finally warm. The seed are
very fine and need very little cover, and the box should have a
pane of glass laid over it to retain moisture. Then as soon as
the little plants are making rough leaves, lift them on the
blade of a pocket knife and set them in another box to give
more room and to get hardy plants for setting later in the beds.

Sow more seed of China aster for late plants. Sow the
tall branching varieties thinly in a well-prepared bed. They
transplant easily if taken up carefully and dropped into a basin
of water and set dripping wet.

As the gladiolus appear above ground, keep the plants
clean and pull the soil up to them. The corms should have been
planted fully 5 inches deep, for the new bulb forms on top the
old one. Plant a few more bulbs to keep up a succession of
bloom, and plant again as the newly planted ones appear above
ground.

The candidum lilies, the old-fashioned Madonna lilies, will
now be throwing up their flower stalks. Keep them absolutely
clean of weeds. The bulbs of this lily are largely imported
from France, but they can be grown in this country fully as
well. They die down after blooming and start to grow in the
fall. The bulbs should not be moved more frequently than once
in three years. They can then be taken up in summer when the
tops ripen and divided and replanted at once.

Set the beds of scarlet sage late in this month. I set them
in circular beds 10 feet wide and set the plants about 10 inches

70 MASSEY 'S GARDEN BOOK

apart in rows to make a mass of bloom. As fast as the flower
spikes fade they are cut and saved for seed. Spread them out
on an old newspaper to dry and later rub the seed out. A bed
of scarlet sage makes a great show, but should be kept well
supplied with water, for the plants make immense roots and
rapidly dry out the bed.

Dahlias can be planted late in the month. When the old
mass of roots has made a number of sprouts, cut them up with
a sprout to each root, for they do far better with a single stem
than a mass of shoots. Good stakes should be set to each plant
to tie the stems to and prevent falling. Later on when the
stalks have grown tall and threaten to make hot weather flow-
ers I cut them back and cause them to branch bushy and make
flowers later, when they are much finer. I prefer to have the
flowers from August to frost rather than in the heat of summer.
when other flowers are plentiful.

After the shrubbery, such as forsythias, spireas and wiege-
lias have made their bloom, cut back all the shoots that have
bloomed and the plants. will make a fine growth for another
season.

Roses, of course, we all want. Do not buy the little things
sent by mail, but get two-year strong plants that have been
kept dormant. Florists sell these, and while they cost more
than the little slips sent by mail, they are worth a great deal
more. Here, too, we have the advantage that in the South
we can grow the tea roses that do not stand out in the North,
and can also grow the hardy ones as well. Then, as climbing
roses, we can grow the yellow and white Banksias, the first
roses to bloom in spring, and to my mind there are no porch
climbers finer than the Banksia roses. Of course, we can also
have the ramblers so popular north, and in a good clay soil we
can have a mass of roses all summer that are the envy of all
those living in colder climates. The splendid Marechal Niel,
the prince of yellow roses, thrives in the South as nowhere
else, and is as evergreen as the Banksias.

April is the great planting month for all shrubbery and
roses, and a garden without shrubbery and roses is rather bare.

GARDEN WORK FOR MAY 71
MAY

ITH the disappearance of all frost, garden operations
\\/ will be rushed and all the more tender crops got-

ten in.

Continue planting succession crops such as beans, putting
in a few as soon as previous plantings are well up.

Set plants of cabbage for autumn heading. For this plant-
ing use Succession and Fottler’s Brunswick.

Plant succession crops of sugar corn twice during the
month, never planting less than three rows so that there will be
an abundance of pollen, for a single row of corn will seldom
do well.

When the celery plants sown last month get 2 or 3 inches
high take them up and nip the tap root and transplant to an-
other bed, setting them in rows 10 inches apart and 2 inches in
the rows, to make strong plants for the final transplanting.
Keep them absolutely clean, and if they grow too fast, clip the
tops somewhat, for we want sturdy plants for setting in August.

Plant squashes, cucumbers, cantaloupes and watermelons
if not planted in April.

Set out egg plants the latter part of the month in rows 3
feet apart and 3 feet in the rows. Give them side-dressings of
nitrate of soda after they start to grow, and spray with lead
arsenate to destroy the potato beetles that attack these as much
as they do potatoes.

Push along the young okra plants with side dressings of
nitrate of soda. Give the cucumbers and melons, too, some of
the nitrate.

Lettuce, to head before the weather gets too hot, must be
pushed along and never allowed to suffer from lack of water.
If the plot of lettuce has been heavily manured and fertilized
it will be the best place to set the celery plants after the lettuce
is done, though celery can follow even a later crop.

Watch every chance to put in something else as the earliest
crops mature, for in the South we should use every effort to
keep the garden at work not only all summer but all the year
round.

72 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

Set sweet potato plants early in this month. Do not give
them too strongly nitrogenous fertilizer, but plenty of acid phos-
phate and potash in the furrows under the beds. Do not hill
up too high, for we get better and more chunky potatoes in shal-
low ridges, no higher than a good broad sweep will make.

Sow seed of tomatoes for a crop to follow the early ones
which are apt to fail by July or be making inferior fruits. For
this sowing I prefer to use seed of Red Rock, Mississippi Girl,
or Globe, the first two being red and the last one pink.

Then, the last of the month, sow a few more seed for the
latest plants to ripen in September and October to give plenty
of well-grown green fruits which, when frost comes, can be
wrapped in paper, stored in a cool place and ripened a few ata
time till Christmas. Plant late tomatoes 4 feet each way and
let them take their natural habit, but spray them with bordeaux
mixture to prevent leaf blight.

The last of the month sow seed of parsnips and salsify
in rows 16 inches apart. Cover the parsnip seed lightly, and
when a stand is secured thin them to 4 inches. The salsify will
do very well thinned to 3 inches or less.

Cuttings of horse-radish roots can be planted between the
early cabbage. Punch holes with a dibble or a crowbar and
drop the cuttings in and cover. They will start off vigorously
after the cabbages are cut and will be ready to dig in the fall.

Side dressings of nitrate of soda will help push many
things along, especially the leaf crops like lettuce, cabbages and
kale.

When spinach begins to run to bloom, turn it all under for
a later crop of some kind, and all the summer through keep the
garden at work growing crop aiter crop, and have plenty for
the coming winter.

Leeks in the seed bed must be kept clean and cultivated
till time to set in their permanent place. I usually transplant
them in July, but if space becomes vacant and the plants are
strong they can be transplanted in late May or June.

Peppers can be set out early in the month. The Pimiento
pepper will bear clear through the season till frost and produces
more than any pepper I have ever grown.

GARDEN WORK FOR MAY 73

Pumpkins can be planted in the cornfield; they take too
much room in the garden.

In cutting asparagus, cut close down on the crown and
leave no stump, but be careful not to injure the new shoots just
starting. It is well to stop cutting early in June, and then fer-
tilize heavily and cultivate clean the remainder of the season to
get a strong growth of crowns to make big shoots next spring.

Early beets, like the Egyptian, get poor in quality in sum-
mer and it is better to make a succession by sowing seed of the
Model or the Eclipse in May. A third sowing of the blood
turnips is also made in June or July for winter use.

In the Flower Garden

Seed of various annuals which transplant easily, such as
China asters, phlox drummondii, if sown in March or early
April, will now be ready to set in the beds. Seed of other plants
can be sown where they are to remain and be thinned out. Of
this class the double zinnias are an example.

The geraniums which, in the North, do so finely bedded
out, are not suited to this use in the South except in the cool
mountain valleys, but they can be used to good effect in window
and porch boxes. The zinnias will make showy beds and will
take the place of the geraniums.

The everblooming begonias are also excellent for bedding.
They bloom continuously and stand the sun, and some can be
taken up and placed in pots to bloom in winter. This class of
begonias seed very freely, and I grow them from seed every
year, as they are more rapidly produced in this way than from
cuttings. The seed are as fine as dust and to start them I sow
the seed on the surface of the soil in a box early in March
after watering the soil, and then place a pane of glass over the
little box to prevent the soil from drying out. They will then
germinate readily and later can be transplanted and given room
in another box till large enough to set out in May. Then they
are cut out of the boxes with a mass of soil and set closely in
beds. The flowers vary in color from white to crimson.

Bulbs of the gladiolus can be planted from February to
June so as to give a succession of bloom. The Oriental poppies

74 MASSEY'’S GARDEN BOOK

are hardy perennials, but are very hard to get to live when
transplanted. Seed sown now will make good plants, and should
be sown where they are to remain and the plants thinned to a
foot apart. They will begin to bloom the next year and con-
tinue for many years to throw up their gorgeous blossoms.

GARDEN WORK FOR JUNE 75
JUNE
D BOUT the last of the month is a good time to sow seed

of late cabbage and collards for winter keeping and use.

Some have a notion that good winter heading cabbages
cannot be grown in the South, and hence depend on collards
alone. Collards are good, but, personally, I prefer cabbage.
The important thing is to get good strong plants to set in late
July or early August. Make the seedbed convenient to water
and then see that the plants never suffer for lack of it. Use
the soapsuds from the weekly wash to water the plants and to
destroy the green caterpillars that will attack them. For set-
ting and subsequent treatment follow our suggestions for later
months.

For the late crop I prefer a good strain of the old Late
Flat Dutch. The Danish Ballhead is also good, but succeeds
best on a lighter soil. For quality the Drumhead Savoy is ex-
cellent.

If you are marketing the early Irish potato crop, of course
you can dig as soon as they are of sufficient size, but if you
propose to grow later on a second crop from seed of the early
ones, let the potatoes you intend for this purpose fully mature.
Then, take them up and cut them in halves, spread out on the
ground, cover with pinestraw and keep that somewhat moist.
Then watch them, and plant as they sprout.

Where the potatoes are grown largely for market, prepare
the ground at once after the potatoes are off, sow to cowpeas
for the benefit of the soil, or for hay to feed, and follow with
crimson clover as a winter cover crop to turn under for the
sweet potato crop the next season.

Set plants of endive for heading to take the place of lettuce
in summer, and when well grown tie the leaves together to
blanch them. Do this when the leaves are dry, for if tied when
wet they may decay.

Clip the tops of the celery plants if they grow too strongly.
You want short and stout plants for setting later.

Clean out and fertilize the strawberries and do not allow
the runners to root between the rows, but train them in along
the row to mate closely. A strong growth now with the crab

76 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

grass and weeds pulled out will make strong crowns for fruit-
ing next spring. Keep up this clean cultivation all summer.

Cutting of asparagus should stop in the South by the 10th
of June. Then the plot should be well fertilized and cleanly
cultivated in order to get the strongest possible growth to give
large shoots the next season. When frost comes, clean off the
tops and cover the whole bed thickly with manure for the
winter.

Plant a row of snap beans at a time, and as fast as one
row is up, plant another, and keep this up till August in order
to have a regular succession for the table. The bush lima beans
and the climbing small lima or butter bean can still be planted.
A wire fence is a good place for the butter beans. The Ford-
hook bush lima is the best of the bush sorts.

The last of the month sow Blood Turnip beets and carrots
for winter use. I sow the Danvers Half-Long carrot. These
and the late beets I leave in the rows all winter, throwing a
slight furrow to each side, and they keep better than if lifted.

Salsify and parsnip should now be sown. In the North
these are sown early in spring, but in the South later sowing
is best, as they are apt to get woody or run to seed here if sown
early. To get a good germination of parsnips I find it an ad-
vantage to plant the seed in little bunches about 4 inches apart,
as a pinch of seed will force its way through more easily than
a single seed, and the bunches are easily thinned. The salsify
is Sown in a continuous row and thinned while small to 3 inches
apart.

Cucumbers for pickling should now be planted. Plant in
hills 3x 5 feet. Use plenty of seed to make sure of a stand in
spite of the bugs. Dust them over just as they come through
the ground with plaster or bone dust, or, in fact, any dusty
material to keep the little striped beetles in check. Tobacco
dust is good, and will help the plants, too. I plant the Davis
Perfect.

Succession plantings of corn should be kept up till late
July, planting a few rows of the Country Gentleman or the
Stowell Evergreen as soon as the previous planting is well up.
The Mammoth sugar corn is stronger in growth and makes

GARDEN WORK FOR JUNE 7

larger ears, but is not of as good quality as the first named
sorts.

The first of June is the best time to set the egg plants out-
side, for they need the soil to be permanently warm. I keep
mine in 4-inch pots, setting the pots in a cold frame about the
20th of May and attending closely to them by covering with
the sashes on chilly nights, for they are more tender than to-
mato plants. I grow the Black Beauty and Maule’s Excelsior.
The last is the larger fruited, but the first is more prolific.

If you sowed leek seed early in spring the plants will be
ready to transplant the last of June. I set them in open fur-
rows 3 inches apart, and as they grow pull the soil to them in
order to get a good long white shank. These are hardy and are
left in the ground all winter, and come in very nicely till the
green onions are ready.

If you like okra and failed to plant earlier, plant now at
any time till middle of month. I plant the Perkins Long Pod
and the Kleckley, the first a green podded sort and the latter a
white one.

Sweet pepper plants can still be set, but sowing the seed
now would make them very late. The plants can usually be
bought from those who grow vegetable plants for sale.

Green Curled Scotch kale planted in hills like cabbage and
thinned to one plant in a hill will make immense heads, and
when touched by frost are very fine—better in my opinion than
collards. The plants will keep growing most of the winter as
fast as the leaves are pulled.

If you want pumpkins stick some seed in the cornfield and
get all you need.

Late Irish potatoes can be planted the last of the month and
up to the middle of July. Plant in deep furrows, cover lightly
till they start, work the soil to them till level, cultivate shallow
and level and do not hill as we do early potatoes, but maintain
a dust mulch to retain the moisture.

In the Flower Garden

Very tender bedding plants like coleus will do better by set-
ting in early June than earlier.

78 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK

Keep the flower beds absolutely clean of grass and weeds.
Neatness is essential in the lawn and flower plantations.

Keep the lawn mower going in all favorable weather, but
do not mow the grass short in a drought.

Candidum lilies will be blooming by the middle of the
month. As soon as the flowers fade, cut out the blooming tips

of the stalks to prevent seed formation which would weaken
the bulbs.

|

GARDEN WORK FOR JULY 79
JULY
CC sugar com planting successive crops of snap beans and

sugar corn. Sugar corn planted now will keep up the

succession of roasting ears till frost and will also make
the best ears for saving seed. Kandall Giant and Country Gen-
tleman are good varieties. The first named is the earlier.

Sow rutabaga and large White French turnip seed in
rows and thin them to 4 or 5 inches in the rows. A good plan
is to run out furrows and put a heavy application of fertilizer
in them and bed on this. Then flatten the bed slightly and drill
the seed in with a garden seed drill. These turnips need a
longer season than the ordinary white and purple-top turnips
and should be sown earlier.

In the mountain sections celery plants should be set the
latter half of the month, but in the warmer parts of the South,
August is a better time.

In all warmer sections and the lower South this is a good
time to sow the seed of parsnips and salsify, which should be
sown in June in the more elevated and northern sections of the
South. The plants make their best growth in the fall months
and up to Christmas and are far better when not sown too early.
Sown as is common in the North, they will get overgrown, may
run to seed and the roots will be inferior.

Keep the fall cabbages well cultivated. Running a bull-
tongue plow through the rows to snap some of the roots will
hasten the heading. After the middle of the month, set out
plants for winter cabbages to head in late November or early
December. A good strain of the Late Flat Dutch is as good
as any, and the seed should be sown and treated according to
directions already given. This will also apply to collards.

Good tomato plants set the first of the month will give the
best late fruits in September and October till frost. It is al-
ways best to make about three plantings of tomatoes to have
the fruits in prime condition through the whole season, set-
ting the early forwarded plants in April and another set in
early June and the third the first of July—seed having been
sown first in February, then in April and again in late May.

Egg plants should now be strong and setting fruit. They

80 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

like a very rich soil and plenty of water, and if allowed to
suffer from drought they will get stunted and make a poor
crop.

As the earliest tomatoes have completed their best fruiting,
it does not pay to keep them longer after the second planting
comes into fruit, so I always clean them out when I begin to
get the later ones and get the ground ready for something else.

Above all, let no part of the garden get smothered in crab
grass. This not only robs the soil but is in the way in keeping
up a succession of crops and makes a harbor for breeding cut
worms to bother you next spring. Therefore, allow no grass in
the garden at any part of the season.

Brussels sprouts set now just as you would set cabbage
plants will make a swarm of little heads all over the stalks just
as frost comes, and they will be all the better for some frosting.
They make fine eating.

Kohl rabi is another plant of the cabbage family which
can be sown now. It makes tops like a rutabaga, but the stem
swells out above ground as large as a good-sized turnip, and
this stem is the edible part. Peeled and boiled like cabbage, it
is almost the next thing to cauliflower in taste.

The early cymlings or squash are apt to fail about this time
and a late planting will bring good ones in before frost. Squash
are easily canned, and in winter the canned ones cannot be dis-
tinguished from fresh ones.

Tomatoes for canning should not mature too early. Au-
gust and September tomatoes are far better for canning than
the earlier ones.

Snap beans also can nicely, being just as good in winter
as in summer, and with a little care one can have them on the
table all the year round. Canned vegetables will make the win-
ter diet far more attractive and wholesome, and now is the time
to lay up your supply.

Instead of letting summer apples and pears go to waste,
can these, too, as well as the peaches. In fact, put up a full
supply of canned vegetables and fruits.

Late in the month, sow garden peas for a fall crop. For
this sowing Sutton’s Excelsior and Thomas Laxton are the
best. Sow in deep furrows and cover lightly; then work the

GARDEN WORK FOR JULY 81

soil to them as they grow so that you can get the roots deep in
the soil, enabling them better to stand the heat and droughts of
summer. They will usually give a good crop in the early fall.
These, too, can be profitably canned.

A late planting of chard will give leaves for boiling till the
early fall spinach comes in.

Get all garden refuse into a compost heap to rot down and
return to the garden next spring. All the cabbage stumps, old
tomato vines and, in fact, weeds and refuse of all sorts, will
make humus for the garden, and even the crab grass which gets
a start on you will be all right in the compost pile.

Transplant leeks to open furrows 3 inches apart in rows
15 inches apart. As they get started in growth, pull the soil to
them, for we want to get them deep in the ground to make long
white shanks for winter use.

Plant the late crop of Irish potatoes the middle of the
month in the upper South and up to August in more southern
sections. The methods of planting and cultivating have already
been discussed under the head of potato growing.

Sow seed of the Late Flat Dutch cabbage convenient to
water in a bed made very rich, and grow strong plants for set-
ting in mid-August. And remember that big cabbage are the
result of heavy feeding and plenty of moisture.

Late beets and carrots are sowed in July. A good strain
of the Blood Turnip beet is good. For carrots I use the Half-
Long Danvers.

While for general use a good strain of the Late Flat Dutch
cabbage will fill the bill, the Drumhead Savoy should not be
neglected, because it is of especially fine quality.

Cucumbers for pickles should be planted early in July.
Plant just as for the early crop, and spray with bordeaux mix-
ture in which lead arsenate is mixed, 1% pounds to 50 gallons
of bordeaux, thus making a fungicide and an insecticide at the
same time. This will keep the foliage good and check the pickle
worm.

Give the egg plants a side dressing of nitrate of soda, and
if possible irrigate them in dry weather, for they suffer very
quickly from drought.

82 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

Pull the ripe onions and let them lie in the sun during the
day, but spread out under cover before night with the tops left
on, and when the tops are dry, store in a cool dark place till
wanted for use or sale. If you have sown onion seed for sets
they will now be ripe. Take them up and sift the soil from
them and spread out under cover to cure ready for setting in
September.

If you are still growing the old varieties of sweet peppers
for pickles, you can set plants early in July for the pickles. The
newer Pimiento pepper bears all the season through from June
till frost, and needs but one setting of plants.

In the Flower Garden

The tea roses which bloom so profusely in May and June
should have all the shoots that have bloomed cut back half way
to start a new growth and bloom. In cutting roses for house
decoration it is always best to cut good long stems, for the ever-
blooming tea roses and the hybrid teas bloom on the young
shoots, and to get a continuous profusion of flowers they need
heavy manuring and severe cutting to induce plenty of fresh
blooming wood.

The climbing roses like the Crimson Rambler and Dorothy
Perkins will need good treatment after their blooming season
in May, for they are peculiarly liable to mildew. Spraying with
a solution of formaldehyde, 1 part to 25 parts of water, is
usually a good preventive. I also use a preparation called Fun-
gine, and have found it effective. But do not wait till the mil-
dew is all over the plant, for you cannot save the mildewed
leaves, and the only thing you can do then is to prevent it on the
new leaves.

The green aphides are often a pest on roses. Spraying
with a solution of nicotine sulfate will clean these out easily.
They are apt to be worse in early spring than in hot weather,
but they appear in some form at any time.

Keep a sharp lookout for insects of all kinds, for the hot
season brings many kinds into activity.

GARDEN WORK FOR AUGUST 83
AUGUST

AKE the first sowing of Big Boston lettuce early in the
M month to make plants for setting in a bed 10x10
inches for fall heading outdoors. The soil must be
made very rich with manure and fertilizer, and the plants
should never lack for water after setting in the bed. The seed
can be sown in rows in the bed and thinned to the proper dis-
tance, but I have always had better success from transplanting.
Set plants of the Late Flat Dutch cabbage for heading in
December for winter keeping. The summer and early fall cab-
bages should be used or disposed of as soon as well headed, for
they will burst later.

Set celery plants the middle of the month in the central
and upper South, and in the far South sow seed for the winter
crop. Many of the northern dealers now grow celery plants
late, especially for southern setting.

Sow seed of the Norfolk Savoy spinach for the fall crop.
Sow in rows 15 inches apart and fertilize well, for rapid growth
is essential to making good spinach.

Mustard can also be sown for fall greens.

Sow Moss Curled parsley in a frame where you can pro-
tect it in winter with cloth. It is perfectly hardy, but to have
fresh leaves in winter it is best to shelter it from hard freezing.
The seed germinate slowly and should be sown rather thickly.
If sown in a sheltered bed in rows and well mulched with
rough manure in the late fall it may do very well without the
cloth.

Early in the month sow seed of the Early Milan turnip for
fall use, and later in the month sow seed of the Purple Top
Globe and the Yellow Aberdeen for winter use. Sow these in
rows 16 inches apart and cultivate clean. The last of the month
seed of the Seven Top turnip can be sown broadcast to make
greens for winter and spring. They will be all the better if
sheltered with green pine boughs in winter.

The early dwarf garden peas can still be sown early in
the month in the same manner suggested for last month, and
will generally be more free from mildew than sown earlier.
But it will be well to spray them with bordeaux mixture to
ward off mildew.

84 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

Sow seed of the Celestial radish in rows in a bed 12 inches
apart. Make the soil very rich and thin them to 3 inches, for
they grow as large as a big turnip. Seed of the Red Turnip-
Rooted Chinese and the Rose-Colored Chinese radish can also
be sown. Sow all of these about the middle of the month.
The Celestial is fine boiled like turnips, and is also good raw.
The Rose-Colored Chinese radish is rather more hardy. It can
be left in the row, and if well mulched with coarse manure it
can be pulled all winter, and the roots do not get pithy.

The Dwarf Essex rape is now commonly sown for hogs
and other stock, but few realize what fine boiled greens it makes,
and it will not come amiss to have some in the garden for fall
and winter greens.

But for the standard winter greens sow the Norfolk Curled
kale in rows 15 inches apart, and it and the rape, too, will be
ready to cut all winter. Boiled greens are wholesome and
should be continually on hand in every farm garden.

Plant more snap beans for fall crop and have some for
canning or putting down in stone jars in brine for the winter.
We pack these raw in the glass fruit jars and set in the boiler
with the tops loose to cook and then screw tight, and they keep
finely. Egg plants are peeled, cut up, and packed in the jars
and cooked in the same way. Then if taken out in winter, made
out in cakes and fried, they are as good as if fresh.

In the latter half of the month sow seed of the Prizetaker
and Giant Gibraltar onions in a seed bed, and when they are
the size of a lead pencil transplant them in rows 15 inches apart
in well enriched soil and they will winter well and make very
large onions next summer.

In the colder Piedmont and mountain sections they should
be sown in January in cold frames under glass and transplanted
in the early spring, but in all the warmer sections, fall planting
will succeed.

Keep the leeks cleanly cultivated and continue to draw the
soil to them till somewhat mounded up. Leeks are milder than
onions and make a fine dish in winter. "They are perfectly
hardy and are left all winter where they grew, ready for pull-
ing at any time. They take the place of green onions very well

GARDEN WORK FOR AUGUST 85

till the onions are ready in the spring, and add a great deal to
the making of an all-the-year-round garden. In fact, if one
watches the chances, the garden will be almost as full of fresh
vegetables in winter as in summer.

The latest tomato plants will now be setting green fruit for
the September and October crop. Keep them clean of the ag-
gressive crab grass, and they will be all the better trained up
to stakes in the garden, though in field culture they are usually
allowed to take their natural habit on the ground. Spraying
with bordeaux mixture is needed to ward off the leaf blight.
But for bacterial blight that causes the plants to suddenly col-
lapse there is no help except to plant in uninfected soil.

Sow some parsley seed now in a frame where it can be
protected in winter either with sash or cloth, and it will be ready
for use all winter.

Cultivate the late Irish potatoes shallow, level and rap-
idly, and do not hill them up. We need at this season to main-
tain a loose dust blanket on the soil to retain moisture.

A medium early sugar corn like Kendall’s Giant planted
the first of August will in ordinary seasons give some roasting
ears before frost.

Celery plants can now be set for the winter crop.

Keep the green pods of okra cut closely. If you allow it
to get old and ripen seed, the plants will soon stop making pods.

In the Flower Garden

August is the best time to plant bulbs of the old white lily
or Lilium Candidum, known also as the Madonna lily. This
lily must make a good fall growth above ground in order to
bloom well the next season. The Guernsey lily, Nerine Sar-
niense, is now still dormant and can be planted, though July
would have been better. It blooms in late September and then
throws up its leaves which are green all winter and disappear
in the heat of summer.

86 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK
SEPTEMBER
Mire: the second sowing of spinach seed early in the

month, and about the last of the month sow for win-

tering over for spring cutting. This last sowing I sow
broadcast in heavily fertilized soil, and rake the seed in well,
as they seem to winter better in this way. In the lower South
this sowing will be in shape for cutting in winter, and the
Southern truckers commonly sow again in February for the
latest spring cutting.

Sow seed of the Early Jersey Wakefield cabbage after the
middle of the month to make plants for setting in open furrows
in November. These are the so-called “frost proof” plants.

The turnip-rooted radishes will still make a crop sown
early in the month in very good soil heavily fertilized. The
winter radishes mentioned in August can also still be sown
early this month.

About the middle of September, plant sets of the Yellow
Potato onion for the earliest ripe onion next June. Plant at
same time sets of the Norfolk Queen and Pearl for green
onions in early spring.

Seed of the Prizetaker and Giant Gibraltar and Denia on-
ions can still be sown in beds and transplanted, as soon as they
reach the size of a lead pencil in rows 15 inches apart, as we
plant all onions. These will make very large ripe onions next
summer. In the upper South the sowing can be deferred till
January, the seed being then sown under glass in a frame for
transplanting in spring, but in all the warmer sections of the
South the fall sowing will be successful. In fact, the early
Pearl can be sown now and make good green onions in spring.

In the lower South, Black Valentine beans sown early this
month will have time to make a crop before frost.

Seed of cauliflowers can now be sowed. Set in a bed or
frame 15 inches apart, and protected with cloth in very cold
weather, having the soil very rich in the frame, they will head
in April or early May.

The Norfolk Curled kale can also be sowed in rows for
late winter and early spring cutting for greens, as can the
Seven-Top turnip.

GARDEN WORK FOR SEPTEMBER 87

The Pimiento peppers can be canned just like snap beans,
and when boiled in winter are fine.

If you sowed English peas in August they should be
sprayed with bordeaux mixture to prevent mildew before
blooming.

Give the late Irish potatoes rapid and shallow cultivation.
They need a dust blanket on the surface to conserve the moist-
ure in the soil.

Do not disturb the sweet potato vines. Some think it well
to pull them loose from the ground, but this does more harm
than good.

Any of the flat turnips will make a crop in good soil sowed
this month. The Purple Top American Globe is a good variety,
but for September sowing the strap-leaved varieties are best.

The asparagus tops which you find full of red berries
had better be cut and burnt unless you want the bed smothered
with seedling volunteer plants. But the tops in general should
not be disturbed till frost. Keep the asparagus clean of weeds
and grass.

Lettuce plants from seed sowed in August should now be
set for heading. I find it best and convenient to plant in beds
about 6 feet wide and 10 inches apart in the bed each way. I
lift the plants carefully with a garden trowel and drop them at
once into a bucket of water and set them dripping wet. Even
when no water is afterward applied these plants will usually
live. Of course if the soil is very dry, a good soaking is neces-
sary. For this planting I use the Hanson and Wonderful, as
they stand the warm weather of September better than the Big
Boston. What is needed is a bed heavily manured, and then,
after the plants start, some nitrate of soda as a side-dressing to
push them along, for lettuce to be good must be grown fast, and
if stunted by dry soil or lack of plant food, you will not get
good heads and many plants will run to seed.

The middle of the month sow seed of the Big Boston let-
tuce to set in the frames later.

In the Flower Garden

September is the time for planting most of the hardy bulbs
such as hyacinth, tulip and narcissus. Plant the bulbs 3 inches

88 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

deep, and after planting cover the beds well with rough manure,
and as they start in spring rake off the rough part.

The Roman hyacinths and the Polyanthus narcissus are
better planted late after the soil gets cold. They are reputed to
be tender, but this is mainly because they start to grow at once
if planted early, and in that case will get hurt, but if planted
late they will remain dormant till February. The best of the
Polyanthus narcissus is the Paper-White Grandiflora. Grand
Soliel D’Or is yellow and also good. The so-called Dutch-
Roman hyacinths are simply small bulbs of the regular Dutch
hyacinths. They bloom finely and will make large bulbs the
next season and bloom larger spikes. I prefer to plant these
rather than the regular sizes, for they continue to give large
spikes longer than the larger ones.

Sow seed of the Phlox Drummondii to winter over for
early spring blooming. In mild winters they will often bloom
in February, and in any season will make more flowers and
better than if sown in the spring, as the plants are perfectly
hardy.

If you have the large flowered cannas you can save seed
from them and plant them at once and they will grow in spring
and you may get some strikingly new varieties. If not conve-
nient to plant them this fall, put them in a box of moist sand
and bury the box outside till spring and then sow them.

Lift the early-planted gladiolus bulbs and separate the new
bulb or corm from the old one. Save the little bulblets that
form under the main bulbs, and sow them at once in rows about
3 inches deep and they will grow in the spring and make bloom-
ing bulbs in one season’s growth, and in this way you can rap-
idly increase your supply of this flower.

Peonies can now be taken up and the roots divided and re-
planted, setting them with the tops not over 2 inches under the
surface, for if planted deeply they will not bloom well and they
need great care in the South to bloom at all. They do best in
a strong clay loam retentive of moisture.

The hardy perennial phlox, too, can be divided and re-
planted, but November is a better time.

GARDEN WORK FOR OCTOBER 89
OCTOBER

(These October notes are for the upper South. Further
South they will apply to November.)

HE, first of the month make the last sowing of spinach for
wintering over for spring cutting. This can be sown
broadcast and raked in. The soil should, of course, be

well manured. In the lower South sow seed last of month.
When frost nips the tops of the sweet potatoes, they should
be lifted at once. This can be best done in dry sunny weather.
If they are to be stored in a potato curing house, the best way
is to put them carefully in slatted bushel crates in the field as
they are dug, and store them in the crates, for the less handling
done the less danger there will be of bruising or skinning them,
for it is the skinned places that get infected and start decay.
Keep out all cut potatoes for immediate use, and under no cir-
cumstances allow the potatoes to be carelessly thrown in heaps
in the field. If they are to be stored in the old style banks,
gather them in baskets in the field, haul them to the banks in
baskets and place them in the heaps with as much care as you

would place eggs.

The late crop of Irish potatoes, too, is to be dug when the
tops are frosted off. The keeping of these is far more simple,
for the things to be avoided with the Irish potatoes are heat and
light, and if they are stored in a perfectly dark place where the
temperature will be just above the freezing point, all the better.
In the absence of a dark cold cellar, the best way is to put them
in heaps and cover with earth thick enough to prevent freezing
clear through. In most places 6 inches of earth will be an

abundant cover, and all the better if under a shed to keep the
earth dry. The sweet potato banks should always be under
shelter.

Late cabbages will usually keep growing and heading till
December, and directions as to keeping these and collards will
be found in our December calendar.

Set lettuce plants in the frames for the Christmas crop.
Frames with glass sashes are far better than cloth, but with
care you can grow good lettuce under cloth. The soil in the
frames should be well stuffed with rotten manure, and the

90 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

plants aided after starting with dressings of fertilizer between
the rows. Set the plants 8x10 inches for the Big Boston.
The Boston Market and Tennis Ball and the Belmont can be
set 8 inches each way. Keep the glass or cloth off in all sunny
weather and do not cover till the nights are quite frosty. Then
attend to watering, for if the frames are allowed to dry out the
lettuce will not amount to much.

The early-sown spinach will now be coming into use. In
cutting, cut the entire plant and not merely the loose leaves.

When frost threatens the tomato vines, gather all the well-
grown green tomatoes and wrap them in paper and store for
ripening. ‘Then clean up all dead vegetation from the garden
and put it into the compost heap to rot and finally go back on
the garden. Never burn any garden refuse, for all the refuse
will make humus for the soil.

In the Flower Garden

When frost cuts the tops of the dahlias it is best to lift
them and bury in a dry place covered with straw or old news-
papers, mounding the soil over them. Of course, in most places
they will keep if merely well covered in winter with coarse
manure, but then in spring they will grow with a mass of shoots,
and it is better to have them where you can take them up and
divide them so as to have a root and one shoot to a plant.

Cannas, too, should have the dead tops cut off and either
lifted and buried or else thickly covered where they grew with
pinestraw and their own dead tops. Take up caladiums or ele-
phant ears after frost and cut off the tops and roots and store
the tubers in boxes of dry sand in a warm place. I know that
they will live out in the warmer sections with a good cover, but
they are all the better taken up and stored and kept in dry
sand.

Tulip, hyacinth and narcissus bulbs can still be planted.
In fact, I have planted tulips Christmas week and had them do
as well as if they had been planted earlier.

Seed of the Phlox Drummondii can still be sown early in
the month. Canna seed and the little bulblets from the glad-
iolus can also be sown to grow in spring.

— a

GARDEN WORK FOR OCTOBER 91

Take up the gladiolus and separate the new bulbs or corms
from the old exhausted ones and throw the latter away. Store
gladiolus in boxes, each variety labeled, or in paper bags put in
boxes and keep in a cool place, but where no frost gets to them.

Hyacinths for blooming in pots should be potted and the
pots buried outdoors for three weeks to get well rooted. Then
they can be taken up, brought in, put in sunny windows, and if
well watered, will make good spikes. The dealers make special
selections of varieties best suited to pot culture.

The white Roman hyacinths can be planted thickly in shal-
low boxes of soil and covered well outdoors till rooted. Brought
into the house then, they will give lots of bloom for Christmas.
Do not plant these outside till middle of November.

The Chinese Sacred lily, or narcissus tazetta, can be put
in bowls of water with pebbles and set in a dark closet to get
rooted, and will make plenty of flowers if well treated and not
allowed to dry. Paper-White narcissus can be successfully
grown in the same way, and hyacinths also set in glasses made
for the purpose will bloom well in water if allowed to get rooted
well in the dark. But be sure to have the water changed often.

Usually it is best to prepare and sow the lawn in the fall.
To make a good lawn the ground should be broken deeply and
a heavy application of slaked lime made and worked into the
soil and then a dressing of any good high-grade fertilizer. With
the soil in perfect condition the grass is to be sown. Sow a
mixture of Kentucky bluegrass, red top, sheep fescue and
Rhode Island bent grass in equal amounts, and use this at rate
of 50 pounds an acre, for thick seeding is essential to the mak-
ing of a good lawn. After sowing the grass seed scatter about
2 pounds an acre of white clover seed. Top-dress the grass with
bone dust every spring and every four or five years brush in
some lime.

Where you already have a Bermuda sod for summer, disk
the Bermuda over and sow thickly in October with the Italian
rye grass, and then roll the sod back. The disking will not hurt
the Bermuda but will be more likely to improve it. The Italian
rye grass will make the winter and spring lawn green, and die
out in summer giving place to the Bermuda.

92 MASSEY S GARDEN BOOK
NOVEMBER

ATE in the month the early Jersey Wakefield cabbage
L plants from seed sown in September will be ready for

planting. Make furrows 3 feet apart, fill half full with fine
old manure, on this apply a liberal dressing of acid phosphate
and then bed on these. ‘Then open a furrow along the crest of
the bed, the rows running east and west, set the plants in the
open furrow and deep enough to cover the entire stem, and
they will usually winter well. In spring when the soil is lev-
eled, they will be in the proper position in the soil. We want
to keep them dormant and not excite them into tender growth,
as is often done when they are set on the south side of a ridge.

Now cover the whole garden thickly with stable manure,
hiding every bit of soil, mulching between all the rows of the
winter vegetables. By spring this manure will be well rotted
and ready to feed crops far better than would fresh manure
applied at planting time.

Lettuce plants can be set between the cabbage plants and
will generally winter all right and head in spring before the
cabbage need all the room, the cabbage being set 15 inches apart.
For this planting the Hanson Wonderful or New York varieties
are good.

Set cauliflower plants in cold frames six plants to a sash
and fill in between with close-heading lettuce like the Tennis
Ball. The frames will need special attention this month to pre-
vent the lettuce and other plants from growing too tender. Ex-
pose them fully in all sunny weather, and put the glass on only
on frosty nights and cold stormy days.

Seed of the Marrow fat garden pea can be sown this month
and furnished some brush to climb on. The market growers
plant them along the rows of dead cotton stalks as a support.
These peas come in after the extra early peas planted in Jan-
uary and February.

November is the best time of the year for planting out
strawberry plants. ‘They live better now than if planted earlier,
as the soil will not get dry again, and the plants will get strong
enough to give a fair crop of fruit in the spring. Raspberries,
dewberries and blackberries may also be planted now.

GARDEN WORK FOR NOVEMBER 93

Set strawberries in rows 4 feet apart and 15 inches apart
in the rows. Plant blackberries and raspberries 3 x 6 feet, and
dewberries 4 feet each way to be tied up to stakes in spring.

Fruit trees of all kinds except figs should preferably be
planted in the fall in the South, since the soil does not freeze
deeply, and the roots will be putting out new fibres to supply
the trees as the buds swell in spring. Buy trees from the near-
est good nursery. Get catalogues and make your selections.
Do not buy from traveling agents, as you can buy cheaper di-
rect from the nursery. For planting directions, see elsewhere.

Dig horse-radish the last of the month and trim off the side
roots to make cuttings for spring planting. Cut the lower end
sloping and the top square across so that you will not plant
them upside down in spring. The main roots are now to be
disposed of or buried for winter family use, covering them with
just enough soil to keep them fresh, for frost will not hurt
them. The trimmed roots always find a ready market.

Sow seed of Big Boston lettuce in a frame under glass to
make plants for setting in other frames in January to follow
the Christmas crop, this lettuce to head in late winter and early
spring. Do not plant, however, in the same soil which has
grown the fall crop. The advantage of having small portable
frames is that the succession crops can be grown in fresh soil
by simply moving the frames.

About the last of November is a good time to cover the
cabbage that has been headed for winter. Turn the heads over
toward the north, and bank the soil over the stems and lower
part of the head and the open top will be shaded from the win-
ter sun, which does more damage than the cold. Cabbage partly
headed will head if buried in this way.

Spinach can of course be cut all winter in the South, but
it will be far better if well mulched with stable manure.

Right now I take my little garden plow and throw a furrow
to each side of the rows of onions, carrots and beets as a winter
protection. The earth will be pulled away from the onion rows
in March so that the onions will form on the surface with only
the roots in the soil.

Cut out all the blackberry and raspberry canes that fruited

94 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

this year if this has not already been done. New plants can
now be set. Blackberries and raspberries are planted in rows
6 feet apart and 3 feet in the rows. Dewberries to be tied up
to stakes can be set 4 feet each way. The runners should lie on
the ground all winter and be tied up in spring.

Prune scuppernong vines in November when needed, for
they will bleed less now than if pruned at any other time. The
cluster grapes are better left till March.

In the Flower Garden

Plant now any of the hardy bulbs that have not been
planted earlier. Late in the month, after the soil has gotten
cold, plant the white Roman hyacinths and the Paper-White
narcissus and the Chinese Sacred lily, and narcissus tazetta, for
in the South these will do as well outside as in the bowls of
water in the house. But they can still be planted in the bowls,
keeping in the dark till rooted.

Plants of pansies grown from seed sown in August can
now be set in cold frames under glass sashes. Set 6 inches
apart they will give plenty of flowers in late winter and early
spring. Beds outside can also be set with pansies for spring
blooming, for they make better flowers early in the spring than
after the weather gets hot.

All kinds of bulbs like hyacinths, narcissus and tulip can
also be planted in the frames and will give earlier flowers than
outside. At the same time the frames will protect them from
the cold that often cuts the early blooms in the open ground.

Mignonette seed planted under the sashes will give an
abundance of their fragrant spikes of bloom in late winter, and
Phlox Drummondi will bloom all winter in the frames.

The beds of bulbs planted in the fall should always have a
thick coat of manure on the beds, and the rough part raked off
as the plants begin to shoot in early spring. None of the bulbs
like manure in direct contact with them, but are greatly helped
by top dressings of manure.

If delayed in getting the bulbs of tulips, hyacinths, etc.,
earlier, they can be planted at any time up to Christmas, but
earlier planting is best except for the Paper-White narcissus

GARDEN WORK FOR NOVEMBER 95

and the White Roman hyacinth. In fact, it is well to remem-
ber that the planting dates suggested by authorities mean the
best time, though many things can be planted and many seed
sown earlier or later than the dates suggested.

96 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK
DECEMBER

F the Wakefield cabbage plants were not set last month they

I may still be transplanted. In fact, where a hard freeze inter-

fered, I have known them planted in January with success,
after the soil had thawed out.

If not already done, get the manure mulch on the whole
garden at once. You will get far better results by having ma-
nure rotting on the ground all winter than by spreading fresh
manure in spring.

On the general truck patch outside, I assume that you
sowed crimson clover as a winter cover, which is not available
in the garden proper where we should have most of the soil
occupied by the winter crops.

But for sweet potatoes especially there is nothing equal to
a coat of crimson clover turned under when mature, having the
plants set on the general level and the only hilling done in the
cultivation with sweeps. With the turned-under clover, the
sweet potatoes will need only acid phosphate and some potash
when available.

If your sweet potatoes are stored in banks see that the rain
is kept off the banks. It will pay well to build a shed over them,
for if the water gets through and wets the pine straw they will
not keep well. If stored in a curing house watch the tempera-
ture closely, and try to keep it not above 50 degrees nor lower
than 45 degrees after the potatoes have been dried off at a high
heat.

In the lower South the early Irish potatoes may be planted
late in this month, but even in north Florida there is danger
that they may get up too early and be nipped by the frost in
February. J have tried December planting in North Carolina,
but there would prefer to wait till February. Of course you can
save them when up by throwing a furrow over the tops when
frost threatens, and in the lower South it is important to plant
early and have the potatoes out of the rush of early spring
work.

If not set in November, set cabbage plants now for early
spring heading. ‘These winter better if set in open furrows
running east and west, and deep enough to cover the entire
stem.

GARDEN WORK FOR DECEMBER 97

In the lower South, cauliflower plants can be set, but in the
upper South these will be safer under cloth till February.

The English Broad beans can be planted about Christmas
and will come in green with the peas in spring, and are then
quite good. They do not mind the cold but succumb soon to
heat if planted too late.

Lettuce plants can be set between the early cabbage plants
and will usually winter well and head in spring. The Hanson
and the Wonderful or Shellem lettuce will be better for this
planting than the Big Boston, which runs to seed with the first
warmth of spring.

Lettuce in frames should be fully exposed in all mild and
sunny weather, and should not be allowed to get too dry.

In the Flower Garden

This is a good time to do mulching. For general mulching
either straw or leaves may be used. To mulch roses, use a half-
decayed, strawy manure placed 6 inches deep around the bushes.

It may also be well to give some of the tender shrubs and
plants a protecting wind-break of boughs or boards.

IV.—SMALL FRUITS

Strawberries

HE most popular and generally grown small fruit is the
strawberry. The best time to set strawberry plants in the
South is in November or early December. Plants set in
November will get a good growth and make a fair crop in the
spring. Spring-set plants should not be allowed to fruit, but
should have the blooms picked off, so that the plants can get
strong. In garden culture the rows may be made 3 feet apart.
In field culture where horse-power cultivation is used, the rows
should be 4 feet apart.

I prefer not to use stable manure with strawberries, as it
brings in too many weeds and grasses. With potash as scarce
as it is when this book is written, the best fertilizer we can use
is a mixture of equal parts of cottonseed meal and acid phos-
phate.

Open the furrows and put the fertilizer it at rate of 500
or more pounds an acre and bed on it. Flatten the beds half
way and set the plants 15 inches apart in the row. Keep cleanly
cultivated during the following summer, and train the runners
in along the rows to make a matted row, and keep the middles
clean cultivated. After the fruiting season, apply another 500
pounds of the fertilizer mixture and continue the cultivation,
pulling out weeds and grass. Then the plants will make strong
crowns for the next season’s fruiting.

I would only take two crops from a bed, and would set a
new bed every fall, for the old bed will get choked with grass
and clover, and we get far better fruit by renewing the beds
frequently.

Several varieties that fruit continuously through summer
and fall have been recently introduced. Of these the Progres-
sive is the best. I find that it is best to treat these almost as
annuals; that is, set the plants in spring, keep all the blossoms
off till June, and then they will fruit till November. The fol-
lowing spring they will set a full spring crop, and after this is
off, turn them under for some later crop, for after they have

98

DEWBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES 99

made a good spring crop the late summer and fall crop will be
small. In the meantime, plant more every spring. They are
useful for family consumption and a nearby market, but are
hardly of value for distant shipping.

For the annual spring crop the best varieties are Early
Ozark for the earliest; then Chesapeake, the best of all; for
large berries, Aroma, Big Joe and Amanda, the largest of all.

Dewberries and Blackberries

Dewberries should be planted about 4 feet apart each way,
and the canes tied up to stakes in the spring, and clean cultiva-
tion given. The same fertilizer as for strawberries will be
good for these and for blackberries. They, too, can be planted
in the fall. Dewberries, like raspberries, are cut out after fruit-
ing and new canes grown for the next season. ‘These are best
allowed to trail along the rows till the following spring and then
tied up to the stakes for fruiting.

The earliest and best dewberry for family use is the Aus-
tin. It is too soft for shipping, and can only be used at home
or a near market. Lucretia is also fine, large and a firm ship-
ping berry. The Atlantic is the latest, as it ripens in August.
It is a large, fine berry, and the plants are rather pretty with
their finely cut leaves.

The blackberries will need no stakes and should be planted
in rows 6 feet apart and 3 feet in the rows. Clean cultivation
is needed by these also. After fruiting, cut out the old canes
and allow three or four new ones to grow for the next season.
Keep all other suckers chopped out or you will soon have a
tangled mass. It is well to pinch the tips of the new canes
when about 3 feet high to cause them to branch. Dewberries
or blackberries can occupy the same place for a number of
years if the soil is regularly fertilized.

Of blackberries the Early Harvest is the earliest, and a pro-
fuse bearer of medium sized berries, with a flavor peculiar to
this variety. El Dorado is a strong grower and produces very
large fruits of fine flavor. Blowers is also large and sweet.
Joy is one of the newest and very hardy and productive of large
berries. Leader is also new, and claimed to be remarkably pro-

100 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

ductive—one grower claiming to have made about 8,000 quarts
an acre. Nanticoke is a tremendous grower and should be
planted 6 feet each way. It is terribly thorny, but is the latest
blackberry grown, ripening in August and running into Sep-
tember. The fruit is large and sweet, but too soft to ship; good
for home use, but too rank and fierce for the garden proper.

Raspberries

So far as soil conditions and fertilization are concerned,
the raspberry needs the same treatment as the blackberry and
the same distances in planting. The Black Cap varieties usually
do better in the South than the red ones, but all of them can be
grown with proper treatment. The red raspberries can be
grown without any stakes, but will do better in the garden with
strong stakes set in the rows and a wire stretched about 4 feet
from the ground, the fruiting canes tied out fan-shaped to this
wire and the tips pinched as they get above the wire to make
branching. The Black Caps should have the same wire, and the
canes pinched and tied out on the wire.

Red raspberries are increased by suckers or cuttings of the
roots. The root cuttings make the best plants. They are cut
about 3 inches long and buried in boxes of sand in winter, and
in the spring planted in rows to make a season’s growth before
setting where they are to fruit. The Black Caps propagate rap-
idly if we bury tips of canes in summer, and every tip
in the soil will make a new plant by fall. But unless new plants
are needed the canes should be kept up to the wire and not al-
lowed to touch the ground, as they will fruit better the next
season. Like the blackberries and dewberries, the old fruiting
canes must be cut out after fruiting and new canes grown for
the next season. The Black Caps not only root at the tips but
some of them sucker freely and these must be kept down to
prevent the plants getting too thick.

While the Black Cap raspberries and dewberries will root
from the tips of the young canes when covered with earth, all
the blackberries and raspberries will grow from root cuttings,
and the best plants are grown in this way. The long roots are
cut into pieces about 3 inches long and buried in the fall in
boxes of sand, and in the spring planted in rows about 4 inches

CURRANTS—GOOSEBERRIES—-GRAPES 101

apart in the rows and the rows wide enough for cultivation,
and they will make fine plants by fall. ‘This is especially the
best way to grow the red raspberries. Plants set in the fall
with a good length of cane left will make some fruit the fol-
lowing season, but it is always best to cut them back near the
ground to get a strong growth for fruiting the second year.

Dewberries root from tips or root cuttings.

Of the class of the red raspberry, there are varieties with
red and some with yellow fruit, and seed of the red ones will
sometimes produce yellow-fruited plants. The yellow ones
make a pretty addition in the garden but the main dependence
is usually on the red ones. The most popular red raspberry is
the Cuthbert. It is called the “Concord of Raspberries,” being
as generally planted as the Concord among grapes. It is a
strong grower and good bearer. Golden Queen is yellow-fruited
and was grown from seed of the Cuthbert. Ohta is a new red
raspberry that has proved to be of the highest quality. St.
Regis is a red berry which has been largely grown of late years.
It fruits both spring and fall, but in my garden I have found it
very unproductive, making a small crop at both seasons, so I
do not advise planting it. Of the Black Cap varieties there are
some which make purple fruit and are more acid than black
ones. The Cumberland is the largest berry of the black ones,
and is medium early. Black Pearl is fine and early and Gregg
is as good a late one as any.

Currants and Gooseberries

While the red currants, such as the Cherry and Wilder,
will make some fruit in the South when planted in strong, moist
clay loam, they do not fruit as they do in the North, and the
gooseberry is uniformly unproductive in the South and becomes
a cumberer of the ground. In the cool mountain valleys both
these fruits may be grown, but in all the warmer sections of
the South they will give very little fruit.

Grapes

All the varieties of our native grapes flourish in the South.
The varieties of the Rotundifolia or Vulpina class to which the

102 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

Scuppernong belongs come to the greatest perfection in the
sandy soils of the coast region, though they may be grown any-
where outside the high mountain region.

The Scuppernong and the black-fruited varieties are all
generally grown on arbors, and as a rule their pruning is neg-
lected till the vines become a mass of wood and consequently
less productive. ‘These grapes should be pruned as regularly
as any, but the only time to do it safely is in November. The
pruning should consist of cutting out all the dead and stunted
wood and training out all the one-year and two-year canes, for
they fruit on the two-year wood. The Scuppernong very com-
monly makes imperfect flowers that are deficient in pollen, and
if there are not plenty of wild barren male plants growing
around, they may be unproductive. The best way to treat an
unproductive Scuppernong is to plant a barren male muscadine
nearby so that the bees will carry the pollen to the scuppernong,
while the male vine will, of course, make no fruit itself.

While the Scuppernong and its class are always grown on
arbors, it is also true that horizontal training is best in the South
for any grape rather than the vertical trellis. In extended ex-
periments in North Carolina with the bunch grapes of the La-
brusca and Aestivalis class, I found that the best method is to
plant the vines in rows 10 feet apart and 8 feet in the rows.
Then set stout posts along the rows about 10 feet apart and
about 6 feet high. Across the top of these bolt cross pieces of
3x4 scantling 2% feet long. Then stretch a wire along the
top of the post and a wire to each end of the crossbar, making
three horizontal wires. The first year one strong cane is grown
to a stake till it reaches the central wire. In spring this is
pruned to the height of the wire and two canes or arms are
grown each way on the central wire. These are pruned to 4
feet. The fruiting shoots then are trained to hang over the
outer wires and the fruit clusters hang beneath. Two new
canes are grown the same season from the centre, and the old
canes cut out the following March, and this renewal is kept up
from year to year.

Of course the soil must be kept manured and fertilized
every year to maintain a strong growth. While the only proper
time to prune the Scuppernong and its class is in November, as

- GRAPES 103

they bleed less at that time, the cluster grapes should not be
pruned till early March. If these are pruned in the fall they
are apt to make an untimely start in the spring and a return of
cold will kill the young shoots.

Of the Scuppernong class, of course, the true Scuppernong
is desirable. The James makes larger fruits and is earlier, and
is black in color. Flowers is also good, and there are many
good black seedlings of the Scuppernong. The Mish is smaller
than the James, and one of the best bearers.

Of the bunch grapes the best varieties for the South are
the Concord, Niagara, Delaware, Lutie, Diamond, and Green
Mountain. Moore’s Early is similar to Concord but earlier.
Brighton is a very fine early red grape which needs to be set
with other varieties to insure good setting of the fruit.

All grapes can be well grown from layers, but that is about
the only good way to increase the Scuppernong and its class.
To grow the plants get a good long cane from the base of the
vine and open a trench about 3 or 4 inches deep. Lay the cane
in this and peg it fast and then wait till the shoots from the
eyes have grown above the surface. Then fill the trench with
the soil and pack it firmly. In the fall you will find roots made
at every joint and each shoot can be separated to form a new
vine.

The bunch grapes can also be grown in the same way, but
are usually grown from cuttings. The cuttings are made with
three joints of the season’s growth in the fall. Cut square
across under the lower bud and 2 inches above the upper one.
Tie the cuttings in bundles with a label of the name of the va-
riety in each and bury them outdoors, upside down, till spring.
For some unknown reason they root better in spring when
buried upside down. Then, in spring, set the cuttings in rows
for cultivation, setting them so that the top bud is about an
inch above the surface. Nearly all of them will be well rooted
in the fall and can then be transplanted to the vineyard or
garden.

V.—PLANT DISEASES AND INSECTS

How to Treat Each Vegetable, Berry, Flower, Etc., for
Diseases and Pests

(The reader will note that here, as in the general directions
for cultivating the various vegetables given earlier in this vol-
ume, the plants are treated in alphabetical order.)

HE spray pump and materials for fighting the various dis-

eases of plants and for warding off the attacks of insect

enemies constitute an important part of the garden equip-

ment. Nearly every crop we grow or vine or shrub we plant
has its diseases and its insect enemies.

Experiment station investigators have studied the nature
of the numerous fungus diseases that attack plants, and have
studied the life history and habits of the insects, and have
worked out remedies and preventives.

Bordeaux mixture is the most generally used spraying ma-
terial for prevention of the various mildews, blights, and fungus
diseases in general. To make the mixture, slake 5 pounds of
fresh lime in a barrel, and then add water enough to make it 25
gallons. In another cask hang 5 pounds of copper sulfate in a
flour-sack in hot water till dissolved. Then make this 25 gal-
lons. Then pour the two together slowly, stirring all the time,
and it is ready to strain into the sprayer. Use while fresh.

The uses of bordeaux mixture are multitudinous. It is
used for spraying tomato plants, in the seedbed and several
times after setting out, to prevent leaf blight and rot. It is
used for spraying grape vines in early spring and twice or three
times after blooming, to ward off mildew and rot. It is used
for spraying Irish potatoes to prevent blight, and with 1%
pounds of lead arsenate added to the 50 gallons, it will prevent
blight and destroy the Colorado beetles at the same time. It is
used for spraying orchards to prevent scab, and with the poison
added it is used for spraying apple trees just as the bloom falls,
to destroy the codling moth larvae. And in many other cases
it is used both as a fungicide and an insecticide.

104

PLANT DISEASES AND INSECTS 105

Beans (Snap) are subject to pod rust or anthracnose. ‘This
is conveyed generally by affected seed, and if healthy seed are
planted the disease may be prevented by keeping the plants
covered with the bordeaux mixture.

Beets—The bordeaux mixture is also used for spraying
beets to prevent leaf spot and root rot.

Cabbage in some soils are affected by club root, large knots
forming on the root and checking the growth, caused by a fun-
gus growth. This disease can be prevented by heavily liming
the soil. Aphides or plant lice also infest cabbages. ‘The best
thing to destroy these is tobacco in some form or the commer-
cial sulfate of nicotine sold as “Black Leaf 40” by seedsmen.
This will destroy plant lice of all kinds. Aphine is another sim-
ilar article. Of late years another disease has attacked cabbages
in the South. ‘his is called “yellow side” and other common
names. It is caused by a minute fusarium fungus, and so far
no preventive has been found, and all that can be recommended
is to avoid infected soil and never repeat cabbages after cab-
bages or turnips or radishes. ‘he green worms or caterpillars
which riddle the leaves of the late cabbages can be controlled
by spraying with lead arsenate 1 pound in 30 gallons of water. I
have also found that taking a watering can and dousing the
cabbages every week with the soapsuds from the family wash
will keep the worms down and promote the growth of the cab-
bage. In fact, anything that promotes a rapid growth will
drive the cabbages ahead of the worms. The harlequin bug
(murgantia histrionica), called also terrapin bug, is one of the
worst enemies of the cabbage, and no spraying that is strong
enough to kill them can be used without also damaging the
plants. The best plan is to sow mustard or turnips between
the cabbage rows. The bugs prefer these to the cabbages, and
will gather on them and can then be dosed with pure kerosene,
killing both plants and insects.

Celery is affected by sun-scald in dry situations and also
by leaf blight. This can be prevented by spraying with the bor-
deaux mixture.

Chrysanthemums are attacked by black aphides, and the
sulfate of nicotine will destroy these, and spraying with bor-
deaux mixture will keep the foliage clear of fungus leaf spot.

106 MASSEY 'S GARDEN BOOK

Cucumbers, squash and cantaloupes are subject to mildew
and leaf blight, which can be prevented by spraying with bor-
deaux mixture. But for these a milder mixture should be
used—4 pounds of copper sulfate and 6 pounds of lime in 50
gallons of water. The worms that bore into cantaloupes and
cucumbers can be destroyed by adding 114 pounds lead arsenate
to 50 gallons of the bordeaux mixture, thus keeping the foliage
good and destroying the worms at the same time. The spray-
ing must be repeated several times.

Egg plants are subject to anthracnose and also to leaf spot,
both of which can be prevented by using healthy seed and reg-
ular spraying. They are also attacked in some soils by the
southern bacterial blight, which is so troublesome with the to-
mato in the South. The only way to avoid this is to plant in
uninfected soil. Much can be done toward breeding a blight-
resistant egg plant or tomato by taking seed from plants that
survive while others around them die.

Grapevines are subject to anthracnose or bird’s eye rot.
This disease affects not only the fruit but all parts of the vine.
This is controlled by painting the dormant canes with a solu-
tion of sulfuric acid and sulfate of iron witha brush. It black-
ens the canes and this shows when it is effective. For black
rot spray the vines before the buds swell and spray the trellis
or arbor, too, with full strength bordeaux mixture. Then, after
blooming it over, spray again and repeat every ten days till the
grapes are half grown. ‘This will also prevent mildew, except
the powdery mildew which is best treated by dusting with flow-
ers of sulfur.

Onions are sometimes attacked by mildew. Destroy all
affected plants and then spray with bordeaux mixture. For
the onion maggot, open a small furrow along the rows a little
distance from the plants and pour into it carbon bi-sulfide and
cover at once.

Garden peas in hot weather often mildew. Bordeaux mix-
ture with some soapsuds added to make it stick better will cure
this. Peas sown for a fall crop are more apt to be affected
than the spring crop.

Dry peas, beans and corn are all liable to be attacked by

|

PLANT DISEASES AND INSECTS 107

weevils which have laid eggs in the green peas, etc., these now
hatching out and making holes in the seed. To destroy the
weevils put the seed in a close box and then pour some carbon
bi-sulfide in a pan or saucer and set on top of the seed and close
up tight till the mixture has all evaporated. The fumes are
heavier than air and will sink through the mass of seed and kill
the weevils. Keep the chemical away from all fire, for the
fumes will explode more quickly than gasoline.

Irish potatoes are very subject to insect pests and fungus
diseases. In the spring the flea beetles make the starting points
for the early blight, causing the tops to die unseasonably, and
the late blight or rot affects tops and tubers alike. ‘Then, the
Colorado beetle is always with us, and the potato grower must
fight for his crop. The early blight can be warded off by
spraying with the bordeaux mixture, and the tops kept healthy
to maturity. At the same time we can destroy the Colorado
beetle and the flea beetle by adding 114 pounds of lead arsenate
to each 50 gallons of the bordeaux mixture. The lead or the
zinc arsenate will be better than Paris green, since these forms
of arsenate do not injure the leaves as Paris green sometimes
does, and they keep mixed with the bordeaux better than Paris
green, and also stick better. The spraying should begin as
soon as the potatoes are well above ground, for the Colorado
beetle begins to crawl around and lay eggs as soon as the pota-
toes appear, and while these old beetles eat little, they do eat
some, and every one killed means the prevention of hundreds
of the destructive larvae. The spraying should be repeated
every ten days—or sooner, if rain washes off the poison. Late
Irish potatoes are often less troubled by the beetles than the
early crop, but the spraying should not be omitted, for the worst
disease of the potato is then apt to attack them—the late blight
or rot. Early and regular spraying will surely prevent this dis-
ease.

Blackberries and raspberries are sometimes attacked by
what is called the orange rust, the stems and foliage becoming
covered with an orange colored fungus. The only thing to do
in this case is to dig out and burn every infested plant. Spray-
ing before an attack may prevent it, but after it gets there, no
amount of spraying will cure it.

108 MASSEY ’S GARDEN BOOK

Roses are attacked by mildew, causing the leaves to curl
and wither. Roses also sometimes have black spots on the
leaves caused by a different fungus. These can be prevented by
early and repeated spraying with bordeaux mixture, but this
makes the plants unsightly, and it is better to begin to spray
early with a solution of formaldehyde 1 pint in 30 gallons of
water. ‘The rambler roses are peculiarly liable to mildew and
the spraying should begin as soon as the leaves are grown, and
then after the bloom is over. In some sections the rose bug or
rose chafer is the worst pest of the season. For a remedy, be-
gin to spray as soon as the plants show signs of bloom with a
mixture of lead arsenate 1 ounce to a gallon of water with a
quart of corn syrup to make it stick. If rain comes, it must be
at once repeated and kept up till the attack is over.

Spinach is often attackd by anthracnose and mildew, but
the copper sprays cannot be used on these edible leaves, and we
can only hope that the plants may outgrow the trouble, or plow
them under if they don’t.

Strawberries are subject to leaf blight, rust or mildew, all
which may be prevented by spraying with bordeaux mixture
when not in fruit. They are also attacked by various insects
that can be sprayed with lead arsenate when there is no fruit on
the plants. But the worst insect is the weevil that attacks the
blossoms, and for this no effective remedy has yet been dis-
covered. Consult Farmers’ Bulletins Nos. 80, 132 and 243 of
the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., which will
be sent on request.

Sweet potatoes suffer chiefly from black rot. The way to
avoid this is never to bed any potatoes showing brown blotches
on the skin, and never bed twice in the same place. To get
healthy potatoes for bedding make cuttings from healthy vines
in August and plant these to make a crop of small potatoes for
the next spring’s bedding. With proper care the crop can be
kept free from disease if the same land is not used year after
year for the crop.

Tomatoes are subject to leaf blight, and various fungus
rots, all of which can be prevented by early and repeated spray-
ing with bordeaux mixture, except what is called the tip rot,

{

PLANT DISEASES AND INSECTS 109

which does not seem to be caused by fungus but by alternations
of drought and wet. Spray in the seedbed and then after set-
ting the plants spray every ten days till the fruit is half grown.
Spray with lead arsenate for the Colorado beetle. The big
green tobacco worms are often troublesome, but hand picking
will easily keep them down. ‘Tomatoes are also affected by
two species of wilt. The first is the Fusarium wilt. This can
be overcome by breeding resistant strains, by taking seed from
a plant that remains healthy while others around it die. Then
by regular selection of the most resistant plants for seed, we
can grow a healthy crop. The other and worse wilt in the
South is the bacterial wilt. This wilt manifests itself by the
sudden collapse of the plant when full of green fruit. There is
no remedy for this wilt, and all that can be done is to plant in
uninfected soil.

Turnmips are attacked by the harlequin or terrapin bug.
About the best preventive is to sow a lot of mustard early be-
fore sowing the turnips and nearby the turnips. The bugs will
gather on the mustard and can be destroyed by spraying with
clear kerosene. This, of course, destroys the mustard also and
it is well to make another sowing of this to come in along with
the turnips to gather more of the bugs. Turnips are also at-
tacked by plant lice or aphides. For these spray with a strong
decoction of tobacco stems in water or with some of the con-
centrated sulfate of nicotine preparations. There are several
of these nicotine preparations. One sold under the name of
“Black Leaf 40” is made by the Tobacco Products Co., of
Louisville, Ky. Another is known as Aphine, and is made by
the Aphine Company, of Madison, N. J. Most of the leading
seedsmen keep these on sale. They have to be largely diluted
with water for spraying. But bear in mind that no treatment
will avail completely if you wait for disease to develop on your
plants. We spray to prevent rather than to cure the fungous
diseases that attack our garden plants.

VI—HANDY REFERENCE TABLES

STANDARD VARIETIES OF GARDEN VEGETABLES

The amateur gardener is often puzzled by the long list of varieties of the
different vegetables given in seed catalogs. Hence, as a matter of assistance,
I give the following list of varieties that have proven good. Doubtless there
are other good varieties, but many of those given in the catalogs are so
much alike that it is needless to extend the list.

Asparagus—The Palmetto has generally proved best.

Snap Beans—Black Valentine for earliest, Red Valentine, Burpee’s Green
Pod Stringless. Celestial for wax beans. Of the pole varieties, Kentucky
Wonder, Berger’s Green Pod Stringless. The last is white and good either
for snap or dry beans,

Lima Beans—The large white lima beans are not heavy croppers in the
South, while the small lima or butter bean is a good producer. Of the larger
limas the Bush Fordhook is one of the best. It belongs to the thick or potato
lima class. Henderson’s Bush Lima belongs to the small lima class. I have
found the Fordhook productive and good. The climbing small lima grown on
chicken wire netting will give an abundant crop, and to my taste is better
than any large lima.

Beets—For the earliest the Egyptian is good, but soon gets poor. The old
Bassano beet is early and of fine quality; its light color and big top have
prevented its being used by the market growers, though there is none better
for family use. For the late crop Bastian’s Blood turnip is good. The best
variety of the chard beet is the Lucullus. This is grown only for greens.

Cabbage—For fall sowing and setting the Early Jersey Wakefield is best.
Copenhagen Market is good to sow in frames in winter for spring setting to
follow the Wakefield; it runs to seed if sown in the fall. Early Summer and
Succession are good for late summer and early fall. For late winter cabbage a
good strain of the Late Flat Dutch is as good as any. The Danish Ball Head
is also good. Drumhead Savoy is also fine.

Carrots—For the earliest Early French Forcing, then Chantenay and for
late the Danvers Half-Long.

Cauliflower—Extra Early Snowball.

Celery—The self blanching varieties are good for the North but are more
ornamental than good. Celery is a late and winter crop in the South and only
the green sorts that are blanched in earth should be used. The Giant Pascal
is as good as any.

Corn—For the earliest planting the Norfolk Market corn. Then follow with
the sugar corn, Kendall’s Giant, Country Gentleman and Stowell’s Evergreen.
“Lhe extra early sugar corns do not amount to much in the South.

Cucumbers—Davis Perfect and Klondyke are good. The first named is also
best for late planting for pickles. It has also been sold under the name of
Challenge.

Egg Plants—Black Beauty is the earliest and most productive. New York
Improved is rather a more robust grower and makes larger fruits.

Endive—Green Curled.

Horse Radish—Maliner Kren or Bohemian.

Kale—Green Curled Scotch or Norfolk Favorite Curled.

Koh! Rabi—Early White Vienna.

Leeks—Mammoth Carentan and American Flag.

110

HANDY REFERENCE TABLES 111

Lettuce—For fall crop in open ground, Hanson. For frames in early winter,
Big Boston. For spring setting outdoors, Hanson and Wonderful. For a curled
leaf lettuce in fall, Grand Rapids.

Muskmelons—Better known as Cantaloupes in the South. Eden Gem and
Knight for green-fleshed sorts. Emerald Gem and Tait’s Ideal for yellow-
fleshed varieties. Honey Dew is new and good.

Mustard—Southern Curled.

Okra—Perkins Mammoth, and Kleckley’s Favorite. The first is green-
podded and the last white-podded.

Onions—For early green onions, Norfolk Queen and Pearl. For the earliest
ripe onions, Yellow Potato. For sowing under glass in winter and trans-
planting in spring, Prizetaker and Giant Gibraltar. For early spring sowing in
open ground, Southport Globe, either yellow or white.

Parsley—Moss Curled.
Parsnips—Hollow Crown.

Peppers—For sweet peppers, Pimiento, Ruby King. For hot peppers, Long
Cayenne and Tobasco. Do not plant hot and sweet near each other.

Garden Peas—Extra Early Nonpareil, Sutton’s Excelsior, Thomas Laxton.
For late peas, Stratagem, Telephone, and Champion of England.

Potatoes—Early Irish Cobbler. Beauty, White Bliss. Late potatoes, Rural
New Yorker No. 2, Sir Walter Raleigh. Plant cold storage seed of the early
varieties and make seed for the next spring planting.

Radishes—Early White-Tipped Scarlet turnip, Earliest White Globe. For
fall and winter sorts, Celestial and Chinese Scarlet.

Rhubarb—Linnaeus.

Salsify—Sandwich Island.

Spinach—Round-Seeded Savoy.

& eer er earliest, Bonny Best. For main crap, Success, Matchless or
obe,

Turnips—For early spring or early fall, Milan; second early, Strap Leaf;
for winter, Purple Top Globe and Yellow Aberdeen; for ruta bagas, American
Purple-Top.

Watermelons—McIver Sugar or Wonderful, Kleckley Sweet, and Tom
Watson.

QUANTITIES OF SEED NEEDED FOR 100 FEET OF ROW

Asparagus—One ounce. Lettuce—One ounce.
Beans, bush—One quart. Mustard—One ounce.
Beans, pole—One pint in hills. Okra—One ounce.
Beets—Two ounces. Onion—One ounce.
Beets, chard—One ounce. Onion Sets—Two quarts.
Canteloupes—Two ounces. Parsley—One ounce.
Carrots—One ounce. Parsnips—One ounce.
Celery—One ounce. Peas—One quart.
Corn—One pint in hills. Potatoes—Four Quarts.
Cucumbers—One ounce in hills. Radishes—One ounce.
Endive—One ounce. Salsify—Two ounces.
Kale—One to two ounces. Spinach—Two ounces.
Kohl Rabi—One ounce, Squash—One ounce,

Leek—One ounce. i Turnips—One ounce.

112 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

Of cabbage seed sow one ounce for 3000 plants; of tomato seed, one ounce
for 1500 plants; egg plant, one ounce for 1000 plants; watermelon, one ounce
He 25 hills; of rhubard roots put 25 to 100 feet; and of horsehadish, 100 to 100
eet.

STORING VEGETABLES

In the South as a rule not enough attention is given to storing vegetables
for winter use. I hope the following hints on this subject will be found useful:

Late Beets—These are better off in the rows where they grow. As the
weather gets cold throw a light furrow to each side of the rows.

Carrots—Keep in same way as beets. The frost seems to sweeten them.

Late Cabbage—These should head in late November or early December to
keep well in winter. When really cold weather seems at hand turn the heads
over to the north and cover the stem and lower part of the head with soil. The
top turned away from the winter sun is left open.

Collards—Treat in same way as late cabbage.

Celery—If grown in the Baltimore bed system, the final covering should be
made just as hard freezing is expected. Then cover the bed well with pine
straw, using bean poles or corn stalks on top to prevent its blowing off. If
grown in rows the celery should be lifted and set upright in narrow trenches
made as deep as the celery is tall. Then cover with two planks nailed V-shape
as a roof, using some straw in cold weather.

Horseradish—Dig the roots in November. Trim the side roots off and tie
in bunches for spring planting. Grind the main roots for use or sale or ship
and sell whole.

Leeks—Let these remain right where they grew, as they are perfectly hardy
and can be taken up as needed in winter. They are milder than onions and
make a nice dish till green onions come in the spring.

Onions—Keep in a totally dark, cold place. Spread out in a tight outhouse
and covered with pine straw, they will be all right. Slight freezing will do no
harm but warmth will set them to sprouting.

Parsnips and Salsify—These are perfectly hardy and should remain right
where they grew.

Irish Potatoes—These can be kept in heaps covered with earth enough to
prevent actual freezing, but maintain a temperature little above freezing. If
in a cellar, make it totally dark and keep the temperature as low as practi-
cable without freezing,

Spinach—To keep spinach in good condition for cutting, a mulch of manure
between the rows is very good and will keep it growing fresh all winter.

Turnips—Those wanted for table use should be lifted, trimmed and put in
heaps and covered with earth. Those sowed for spring greens can be better
wintered by covering with green pine boughs.

Sweet Potatoes—These are best kept in a house built for the purpose where
a high temperature can be maintained till the potatoes are cured and then a
temperature of 45 to 50 degrees during the winter and total darkness. In banks
or heaps they should be piled on a thick bed of pine straw, and covered with
pine straw thickly. Then build a shed over the banks and let stand till the
weather threatens to turn cold. Then cover thickly with earth. The shed
will keep the hill dry, and dry earth keeps out frost better than wet.

in the acre at these distances.

An acre contains 43,560 square feet.

HANDY REFERENCE TABLES

1138

THE NUMBER OF PLANTS TO AN ACRE.

almost any distance ever needed,

Distance

12

No. Plants
Apart Per Acre
ATI Glletaise eerie + ot <ic-sm sei 522720
AYUCU CSc ieeelereieieieieseiein aise eietels 174240
ATG Le eee eticieais cicitis <6) diss 348480
ACICIIGS cloeyeeterslgts cise = eae erara.s 116160
INCHES. a cssein tees ss sess 29040
AN CHES caine sees 2s sat 19360
ANGCHESs cut cues cles sweeties 261360
INCHES eee at cic os 3/0 15520
ATT CEs oie Se eerie ara hte s.8 3 ince's 209088
TCH Ee Saeeeieeeie e ale:c.s\cis 2-018. 34848
ITI CMESactsie ree sais. Saye'a see 17424
ITCH ES sce a.aiiek 2s 0 ae erscne 8712
PCHES 210 Pulte oss wiley aistele 9970
HITCHES 2 es aete tay, o\ ew aisvarereiais 58080
ATIQHES wave isla ¢ dy is.ci:e 6 ¢ishbievele 5808
ATECHES Fb: s:ass. sisiclors a's aiols's:010c8 6223
VIVCH GS e's sty sieleleiesio.cre's\ere'a:6'sx 4148
ANCHES a pidtuatn heen cue se 3556
INCHES. teniinguiceceass we 7790
INCHES racaeross i esem ent 174240

To find the number of plants in an
acre at any distance apart, multiply the one distance by the other to give you
the square feet in each space and use this to divide 43,560. Thus 3 x 3 feet
makes 9 square feet, which divided into 43,560 gives 4840, the number of plants

The following table has been calculated for

No. Plants
Distance Apart Per Acre
HeHOOE IDV!) 1) fO0bacmmiicers emis teniees 43560
TetOoe iby) -2 “fGCE.asiecceicostwieae 21780
U foot by 3 f6etisessciscccsswesewre 14520
13% feet by 134 feets......ccsssecens 19360
Batcaniyy (2. [Celie sccsesesiee tare 10890
2 feet by 3 sets
3 feet by 3
4 feet by 1
4 feet by 2
4 feet by 3
4 feet by 4
5 feet iby, 25
6 feet by 6
7 feet by 7
8 feet by 8
9 feet by 9
10 feet by 10
12 feet by 12
20 feet by 20
25 feet by 25 feet

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118

MASSEY 'S GARDEN BOOK

A Fall and Winter Garden: How to Have One

Nearly every farmer has a spring and summer garden, but too many farm-

ers fail to have a succession of vegetables.

Planting

for a fall and winter

garden should really be as important a matter as planting for a spring and

summer garden.
fall and winter garden:

The following table shows when and what to plant for the

Vegetable Time of Planting Depth to Plant
SPATE SUS: ia cine seven aw aasas November 15—December....;6 to 8 inches
Beans €DUSh) «serece lenses Witly—AUstist: 19 inteswiees ss. 2 inches
IBEGtS)) Goa4 laadue odes ewcaenetens hutie, — Vil¥ Asenwassspuaseeeces Y% inch
CAN MARE MIAUS) oysuscrene cree July, Séptemberaieereccscs.. Plants 2 to 4 inches
Carrots” Sides senssceenaceoesce Wie, aly” ccseaeeasanivense es Y% inch
Cantaloupe isicsecsccccwnseess Tiuine,) [Uy Wo. secwtomme asset 1 inch
DHLETY Puasaaddas ps yaad ees August—September ......... Seed shallow, plants

2 to 3 inches

Corn Salad \oiass was eceeewness September—October ........ %Z inch
Ciietimber — sa.ccces es ccave sues JUL. aa maces eted seu andorra YZ inch
WEa1@), cate ansisebapasitessaads ise October—November ........ Y% inch
MSOtCUiGeh cxiainenatcacewas dent lJuly and succession........ Y% inch
MiStard) siacneeets anew saa ets Oerober <uciaceaskcundsencosss ¥% inch
Onion. (seed) aicesccsessccets October, in frames .:....... 1 inch
O)nilon sCSEhB)) saccstesaae seas September—October ........ 2%, inches
IRACSlEV cca veieet sven oates August—September ........ 1% inch
IPGAS - auctug hassaetaeh hee 810685 AUSHEC aectavadeddnieee aus sake 2 inches
Potatoes (irish) «.cbesesss eas July—Aetist 15 Sostkaceves 3 to 4 inches
Potatoes (sweet) «........... June—July (15 wipes cetvecees 3 to 4 inches
RAdISH, cucssanewareececeead ats July and succession........ Y% inch
SPINACH, sacveeteeees seen satay September—October ........ Y% inch
SAlSifV) Gveaceetveracssees sae PONY: arcsbsas ve aeea san ut eels san 14 to 1 inch
Dene tol weiss bbes boniaid a4 faba a) I Koahandiies bece ess Plants 3 to 4 inches
DUTHIP) ose digiss sis esawegle ss July—September, seid. cuseese 1 inch

What to Plant in the Garden each Month

The following table was prepared for the central part of North Carolina.
For places in other parts of the South the time of planting should vary from
one to three weeks, according to location, elevation, etc.:

Time to Plant

(Plants marked with a “T” are to be sowed in beds and transplanted.)

January—Garden peas, kale, mustard, Irish potatoes, radish.

February—Asparagus roots, beets, carrots, herbs, kale, horse radish, Irish
potatoes, lettuce, onion, mustard, pepper (T), early peas, rape, radish, spinach,
spring turnips, strawberry plant.

March—Artichoke, artichoke roots, asparagus roots, asparagus seed, beet,

brussels sprouts, corn, cabbage (T), carrot, kale, egg plant (T), herbs, horse
radish, kale, lettuce (T), mustard, onion (T), onion sets, parsley, parsnip, Eng-
lish peas, Irish potatoes, pepper (T), rape, radish, spinach, spring turnip, to-
mato (T), strawberry plants,

April—Artichoke, artichoke roots, snap beans, lima beans, beet, cabbage,
broccoli (T), cabbage (T), carrot, celery (T), cauliflower (T), corn, cucumber,
egg plant (T), endive, horse radish, i kohlrabi, lettuce, melons, kale, mint
roots, onion, okra, onion sets, parsley, parsnip, peas, pepper, Irish potatoes,
radish, salsify, tomato (T), squash, sweet potatoes, strawberry plant.

WHAT TO PLANT EACH MONTH 119

May—Snap bean, lima beans, beet, cabbage (T), carrot, corn, celery (T),
cucumber, kohlrabi, kale, egg plant (T), endive, lettuce (T), melons, mint roots,
okra, pepper (T), parsley, parsnip, peas, pepper, pumpkin, radish, rape, salsify,
squash, tomato, sweet potatoes.

June—Snap beans, lima beans, beet, cabbage (T), collard (T), carrot, celery
(T), cucumber, corn, lettuce, melons, okra, pumpkin, radish, squash, tomato.

July—Snap beans, beet, cabbage (T), carrot, collard (T), corn, cucumber,
Scotch kale, lettuce, okra, pumpkin, radish, salsify, turnip.

August—Snap beans, beet, Swiss chard, carrot, collard (T), dandelion, kale,
kohlrabi, mustard, Irish potatoes, rape, radish, spinach, turnip, strawberry
plants.

September—Snap beans, beet, cabbage (T), brussels sprouts (T), carrot,
cauliflower, cress, kale, lettuce (T), mustard, onion (T), onion sets, parsley,
rape, rutabaga, radish, spinach, turnip, strawberry plants.

October—Cabbage (T), cauliflower (T), kale, lettuce (T), onion, onion sets,
rape, radish, spinach, turnip, strawberry plants, turnip for salad.

November—Broccoli (T), radish, cauliflower (T), mustard, rape, spinach,
turnip for salad.

January—Beet, forcing carrot, egg plant, radish, tomato.

Oct

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SPRAYING AND SPRAY FORMULAS 123

Spraying and Spray Formulas

(From Bulletin No. 166, South Carolina Experiment Station, “Home Gardening”’)

Spraying is just as necessary as cultivation and every gardener should
therefore be prepared to combat the insects and fungus diseases which attack
his plants. Frequently one application of spray solution applied at the right
time at a cost of a few cents will save the entire crop.

In spraying for insects, it is necessary for the gardener to know just how
the different insects feed. For practical purposes, the insects may be divided
into two classes, (1) those which obtain their food by sucking the juice of the
plant. Insects of this type cannot be destroyed by poisoning. It is, therefore,
necessary to use a contact insecticide, such as kerosene emulsion. (2) In-
sects which obtain their food by gnawing or those which eat holes in the
leaves. Insects obtaining their food in this way may be destroyed by spray-
ing with a poisonous insecticide such as Paris green or arsenate of lead.

If one has a small orchard in connection with the garden, it is best to pur-
chase a barrel pump as this can be used for both the orchard and garden work.
If only garden vegetables are to be sprayed, then a knapsack pump or some
other form of pump that will throw out a strong, uniform spray may be used.
For the small garden, a pump holding from two and one-half to three gallons
is amply large.

The following formulas are given for the convenience of the gardener who
wishes to combat the insect and fungus diseases which appear upon his plants:

Spray Formulas
Formula No. 1. Bordeaux Mixture. (Fungicide.)

Gopperusulphate: (blnerstone) iis saccele cts ecieiales slelsine s cise 4 Ibs.
Stone: LIME siciainviswc ce cisis'sscivies's esisswils'sicedsraseie ewe os ace 5 lbs.
VV ELLE Gllecote otelors abe ets etataloloiate:s oielstale ici tieciarsterelstosielelstaliia’s aie! slaisieteveinis 50 gals.

Dissolve the copper sulphate in a small quantity of hot water in an earthen
or wooden vessel and then dilute to 25 gallons. Slake the lime in a tub or half
barrel, adding the water gradually so as to slake thoroughly. When the lime
is in solution dilute to 25 gallons. The two solutions are now poured into a
barrel at the same time thoroughly mixed. The solution should be strained
thoroughly before it is put in the spray pump.

Formula No. 2. Dilute Bordeaux. (FPungicide.)

Copper rsnlpbate (blue, Stone) eecccsesccscs sonsccaccsces 2 Ibs.
StOme Mime here ciceies sess tis cle sreseinisacisiesity views uae eeaeaaere 4 lbs.
AW ALE tole cre ile rasiniaic So/s.s cialis sa mimeniciersie s Sinteiaie Sarssoe araniaoee el esa 50 gals.

Prepare in same way as formula number one.
Formula No. 3.—Kerosene Emulsion. (Contact Insecticide.)

Hard: soap Shaved “hie waccc cs ccictasinece vnc siesecisie estes Y, |b.
Wiad CE Tree cr steisicic’asisieisisie cipisins taietoisiaten ielcteise aisle ineee shies atc 1 gal.
IKE LOSCTIE MOM oolccniasslanaitacisie sacs alee sacs Seyaveeie a cpa nomial 2. gals.

Dissolve the soap in one gallon of boiling water. Remove from the fire and
add two gallons of kerosene oil while the water is hot. Churn this solution
for 10 minutes with a foot or force pump, during which time it should change
to a creamy white mass. Keep this as a stock solution using one gallon to 10
gallons of water for soft bodied insects.

Formula No. 4.—Paris Green. (Poisonous Insecticide.)

eaATIS WP SECCM? das arsiaiedaaisaisaleie cle ne mente caine seethe ok Moo accaes Y% |b.
Slake: Vim! csisscscis ssisieecciececceeses minhalstc loess ci sictectaenis“orks 20. «Ibs.

This is to be used dry. It is dusted over the plants by placing in an ordi-
nary flour sack, which is tied to the end of a hoe handle. The bag is held
over the plants and slightly jarred by striking the handle with the hand.
Paris green sifts through the bag and settles over the plants.

124 MASSEY’S GARDEN BOOK

Formula No. 5.—Paris Green. (Poisonous Insecticide.)

PariS QTEEN .ocesecsccreccceseeseececececeeceeseeseeoeees ¥% |b.
Stone: (HGS 4 isisssivastens evs oss ideacakediewe carded ceses 4 Ibs.
Water’ wanna ee etea esas hd ores abe cotae Lae reeeerha mathe bane 50 gals.

Slake the lime in a small quantity of water and then make a thin paste of
the Paris green by adding a small quantity of water and stirring. This is then
added to the lime and thoroughly mixed.

Fermula No. 6.—Formaldehyde. (For potato scab.)

Formaldehyde (40% -Solttion) “<. : ssws sages ses vleveses 8 oz.
WAtEr . Jcescwarteatpat acs ctGdusawebescath esl eniecsuc esses 15 gals.

Place the potatoes in a coarse sack and suspend in this solution for two
hours. The potatoes are then removed and allowed to dry before being planted.
This treatment is not necessary unless the potatoes are infested with the
disease.

BULLETINS ON GARDEN CROPS.

The following ‘‘Farmers’ Bulletins’? can be had by applying to the ‘Division
of Publications, Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.”

Artichokes, 94, 255, Horseradish, 255.
Asparagus, 61, 94, 256. Hot Beds, 94, 195.
Beans, 121, 425, Lawns, 248, 494.
Beets, 94, 255. Lettuce, 94, 255, 460.
Blackberries, 154, 181. Lima Beans, 289,
Broccoli, 256. Melons, 94, 255 .
Brussels Sprouts, 255. Mushrooms, 204.
Budding, 157. Mustard, 255.
Building Sweet Potato House, 324. Nuts, 329, 332.
Cabbages, 94, 433, 488, 305. Okra, 94, 255, 256.
Canteloupes, 231, 259. Onions, 39, 354, 384.
Carrots, 255, 309. Parsley, 94, 255.
Cassava, 167. Parsnips, 94, 255.
Cauliflower, 94, 255, 256. Pepper, 254.

Celery, 94, 282, 133, 148, Potatoes, 92, 386, 35, 225.
Cleft Grafting, 113. Radishes, 94, 255,
Cold Frames, 76, 185. Salsify, 94, 255.
Collards, 255. Spinach, 94, 255.
Cress, 255. Squash, 94, 255.
Cucumbers, 254. Sweet Potatoes, 94.
Figs, 342. Tomatoes, 76, 220, 225.
Garden Irrigation, 263. Turnips, 959-255,
Garlic, 255. Trenching Celery, 282.
Grapes, 471 Trucking, 433, 460, 150, 98.

Home Canning, 359. Watermelons, 193.

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HOW TO HAVE A PRETTY LAWN

I.—If You Can Water Regularly and Give Good Attention.

To those who are willing to give their lawns the proper start and subse-
quent care, we suggest the following procedure: see that the soil is well-
drained and all rocks, stumps, and trash are removed, and if the surface
is irregular with ridges and sinks, a drag should be used to produce a per-
fectly level surface, or even slope. Give the area a heavy application of
stable manure in the spring, at the rate of fifty two-horse wagon loads to the
acre, and turn under deeply; put on a heavy application of water-slaked lime
or of ground limestone, at the rate of about three tons to the acre, and har-
row repeatedly with a cutaway harrow; continue this harrowing every two or
three weeks during the summer. About September 15 to the first of October,
add ground bone or cottonseed meal at the rate of 1,000 pounds to the acre,
and harrow again, following the cutaway with a tooth harrow. After this give
a finishing touch by raking by hand with a fine-tooth rake. When this is done
sow, at the rate of 100 pounds per acre, a mixture of equal parts of Kentucky
bluegrass, creeping bent grass, sheep fescue, and perennial rye grass, and
cover with a compact cedar brush, or by raking again by hand.

In early spring when the ground is not too wet run a roller over the lawn,
and begin to use a mower as soon as the grass is high enough to cut. The rye
grass will need cutting once or twice during the late fall. Look out for moles,
and kill them. Water frequently during the first summer, and take out the
weeds by hand. In October give another top-dressing of cottonseed meal or
bone meal; look out for thin and poor spots, and sow more seed after scratch-
ing the surface with a rake, giving extra fertilization to these places. This
will give the lawn a start. Its successful continuance will require an equal
amount of attention and care,

In watering the lawn do not sprinkle lightly every day, but water thor-
oughly every four or five days.

IIl.—Use Bermuda and Rye Grass in Coastal Plain, or if You Can’t Water
Regularly.

Bermuda is a sun-loving plant, and in shaded lawns will not cause much
trouble. But in open sunny lawns in the South it is the exception when Ber-
muda does not enter and gain the mastery. In such a case the wise man will
accept the decree of fate, and console himself with the thought that Bermuda
will give a sod that for firmness, evenness, and duration cannot be surpassed
in the South. Furthermore it has the exceedingly great advantage of not
requiring water.

It is, moreover, not difficult to superimpose a winter green lawn on the
brown Bermuda by sowing in October a generous amount of perennial rye
grass on the sod, adding at the same time a good application of bone meal or
cottonseed meal. The rains will beat the seeds down to a foothold, and their
prompt growth will offset the approaching passage of the Bermuda to its
winter brown. The rye grass, while a temporary perennial, will disappear in
part during the following season, and should be sowed again each fall. In
open places under average conditions, we must accept this as the best solution
of our lawn problem in the coastal plain region of the South. A Bermuda
grass lawn is best started by sowing the chopped up runners in March.

Ill.—In Any Case, Buy and Use a Lawn Mower.

In any case, buy a lawn mower, and you will have the one thing needful
to improve the appearance of your home 100 per cent. Simply get rid of the
sprouts and big weeds and run the mower over whatever comes. The spon-
taneous summer grasses, even if mixed to some extent with weeds, will give
you a pretty, green expanse that you will be proud of.—Prof. W. C. Coker.

127

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