—_ er WS: Mestre. \ Abd: $22, (lass FS Ee ee Book WALTER R. STEINER ___ COLLECTION ra Si i Xi ye ¥ chun, A ay ead UA The eb iad ii AS Ly oan oA Ke) 1 Fo fun ay; My Pili N Vaal es? Ey Ha J q yo Pee ey a {pup EPR oe Ah a f 77 vie Hed dh Bier A oy tis oy ii : ye Nath A ip UY are U's Aye 4 saat ue. PS a ae Te aa i ug % ap, sNeae ri { AL ate wie aa Ria a atl aera OP ee awit Sua y f wit con fat Orr en a i : BAe tet Yi ee Can : > <> THE LATE HONORABLE PAUL ISENBERG TO WHOSE MEMORY “THE MASTER PLANTER” WAS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. — The Master Planter Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii By JAMES W. GIRVIN WitH NOWE Ss By LEVERETT H. MESICK HONOLULU. HAWAII: PRESS OF THE HAWAIIAN GAZETTE CO., LTD. 1910 BEQUEST OF Di. WALTER 2. STEINER JAN. 20, 194g a COPYRIGHT 1910 By THE HAWAIIAN GAZETTE COMPANY LIMITED CONTENTS. PAGE DEDICATION vil PostHuMous (Introduction) ix CHAPTER, ile ER. XIII. St ow ae Ele ‘ A New Home in a New Tae and the Introduction of the Hero California in “The Days of Old, the Days of Gold, ae Days of Forty-Nine” ; San Francisco, Like Rome, Sits sot Geek We Hills Off for the Islands—Sight of Dyan Head Consens for an Uncomfortable Voyage 3 Honolulu as it was in Days of Yore—Grass Houses and Many Things That Would be Curios Now . “Kansas” is Busy Investigating the Business Possibilities —Lively Times in the Days of the Whaler Man Honolulu and the Churches of the Old ecm) Hero Again at Sea, but Alone Lahaina, the Former Capital of the ae ren (Atle Dis- couragements for the Man From Kansas Iao, the Yosemite of the Islands—Derivation of the Hawaiian Word for Law—Wailuku and its Defini- tion 5 é “ 4 A - : At Wailuku “Kansas” is Advised to “Keep on Trying” in Spite of the Disheartening Outlook The Missionaries Had Trouble too—Our Hero Has Work at Last, but as “Shipped Man” ? Sociability on the Plantation and at Church—‘And He Proves to be a Jewel”—“Kansas” Making Headway Some Interesting Details of Plantation Work—The En- trancing Haleakala Trip and What it Reveals iil XIV. ZV: XVI. XVIT. XVIII. XIX. XX. XXI,. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX, Contents. PAGE Phases of Plantation Life—Native Language and Lore— Native Divisions of Land—Dyestuffs Used by the Hawaiians : A A : 5 A More Hawaiian Lore—Land Tenure—Tabu System—Pri- mitive Tools and Patient Labor—Where Fell the Chivalry of Hawaii The Hawaiians: Whence Came They and the Flora of Their Islands ?—Their Knowledge of Medicine and Surgery : : : : Hawaiian Hospitality and Customs—Pageantry of a Royal Tour Around the Island of Oahu The Transformation of “Kansas’—From “Shipped Man” to Plantation Manager in Eleven Months Hawaii Leads the World in Scientific Sugar Cane Cul- tivation The New Manager Makes Innovations that Startle the Silurians Treating of the One-Time Contract Labor Conditions on the Sugar Plantations Our Hero Has a Name at Last—and an 1 Old- Time Friend Appears with Abundant Capital Madam Takes a Native Maiden Into Her Hibiisenetl and Has an Interesting Character Study Madam Interests Herself in the Natives, and Learns Many of Their Peculiarities The Happy Marriage of Kamaka Is Followed ia ee a Too Frequent Sequel—Piquancy of Native Cooking Mrs. Breed Learns How to Prepare and Preserve the Many Delicious Native Fruits , Madam Embellishes Her Home With Native one eat Attract the Charmed Attention of Visitors The Oace Obscure “Kansas” Becomes Owner and Manager of an Immense Sugar Estate : Capital and Labor as Yokefellows—A Codperative Scheme that Worked—Christ Quoted Fascinating Small Farming Applied to a Big Plantation— Wheat, Corn, Potatoes, Butter, Chickens, Honey . 58 63 126 129 XXXI. XXXII. XXXII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. XLIII. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. L’Envor Contents. Vv PAGE “And of All That Thou Shalt Give Me I Will Surely Give the Tenth Unto Thee.”—Gen. 28 :22 d The Baleful Effects of Alcohol on the Native—The Olla a Temperance Aid The Telephone Publicly Used on Maui eae It icone General in the United States The Primal Curse Applied to Cane Cui linen te: turing and Marketing the Sugar é : Native Labor Becoming Scarce, Experiments With Many Peoples Were Made—A Political Review The Chinese and Their Relation to Hawaii—Vices and Virtues of This People : a . A Resume of the History of the Hawaiian Islands— From the Rise to the Fall of the Monarchy Our Hero in Review Again—Experiments With Elec- tricity—Mention of Noble Men and Women of Hawaii The Silver Wedding < of ie Brees Was Coe He a Luau and Hookupu of Grand Proportions . The Hawaiian Language—Its Lack of Harsh Consonants Makes It Easily Adaptable to Music The Education of Children in the Hawaiian rede An Original Perplexing Question Well Solved Religion of the Early Hawaiians and Why the People Were Ready to Receive Christianity—Evidence of Early Civilization : : A : Debasement and Decimation of Hawaiians Due to White Refuse of Civilization Who Preceded Missionaries Life in Hawaii and What It Stands for to People Who Call the Islands “Home” ; ; ‘ ‘ Metal Being Unknown to the Ancient Hawaiians, the Art of Weaving Entered Into Their Every Utility A Brief History of the Sugar Industry of the Hawaiian Islands—Sugar Cane Indigenous to the Soil . 131 135 138 140 144 148 I51 155 } iy iN Sr Re A Whpy Hi Atay ha fn Lae ayo 7A 7 NG Ka Ath DS Vi EAs ui aie a wives “, oe Lb ROVE rr ‘¢ i ey GLP Pal : $y; \ A d io, San An ih ar 6 rp} Petey if Dra a A Uy Pree Cit, * tot pert se Ae DEDICATION. This book is most respectfully dedicated to the memory of the late Honorable Paul Isenberg. A man who rose from the ranks in the cultivation of sugar on the Hawaiian Islands. A man whose broad sympathies reached out to the laborer of every nationality, and whose hand was always open to assist any one in distress. A man for whom the Ha- waiians had the greatest respect and veneration, and who did much for their advancement by his example, assistance and advice. A man of that Teutonic race which will eventually dominate the globe from its inherent love of and maintenance of the purity of their homes and their observance of the Sabbath day. THe AUTHOR. : hi i WS L A: ae Vy Ne gh a ER POSTHUMOUS. In the year 1906, Mr. James W. Girvin was Librarian for the Hawaiian Gazette Company. Through my connection with the same company, I became well acquainted with Mr. Girvin, and he unfolded to me, at divers times, a mind stored brimful of useful knowledge. Any leisure moment I had I considered well spent in converse with him, especially upon affairs Hawaiian, of which he was a veritable walking en- cyclopedia. At that time he was working on the closing chapters of “The Master Planter,” and through our intimacy I learned much of his ideas and aims in regard to the book; and evidently won his confidence, for he submitted the manu- script to me for criticism and correction from a typographical standpoint. The press work upon the book was well under way at the time of Mr. Girvin’s accidental death from drowning on the ~ llth of December, 1906. Of course, the work came to a sudden standstill then. Later it was decided to publish the book, following Mr. Girvin’s known ideas in regard to it as closely as possible—and a large package of proofsheets and manuscript, just as Mr. Girvin had left it, was entrusted to me for disentanglement and completion. I found the closing words had not been written, or if written were not found— so I have supplied them. A surprisingly large number of books have been published with something Hawaiian for subject matter—generally in- dicative of a wide-spread romantic interest in these “Isles of the Blest.” Mr. Girvin’s “The Master Planter,” on the ibe x Posthumous. contrary, may be regarded as an antonym to romantic—exact, historical, unadorned. It seems almost incredible that so much information could be crowded into a given space as appears in this book, and the continuity of the plot not be irreparably broken. In breaking the story up into chapters and giving them head- lines, I am aware that limp justice has been done, for a single caption could not well cover more than a single paragraph in many cases—as one umbrella makes a miserable mess of covering more than one person in a rainstorm. The story in its entirety strikes me as a delightful pot-pourri, some new fragrance being encountered at almost every turn. There is something in the story for everyone. It is an encyclopedia of things Hawaiian; cross-indexed it would be almost in- valuable as a hand-book of Hawaii. The hero of the story is a composite character, exemplify- ing the sterling worth of the pioneers to Hawaii, who made of it the most advanced cane sugar producing country in the world. Mr. Girvin made the story of “The Master Planter” the vehicle for conveying to the public a great fund of useful information that he had gathered in many years of keen observation. The dedication is his. A composite character—yes, but the trait given to “Kan- sas” of acquiring so much diversified knowledge of the peo- ple and the country, will very well fit the author himself. Nearly four years have elapsed since Mr. Girvin’s death, and in that space of time kaleidoscopic changes have taken place in affairs Hawaiian. Ordinarily, a book written four or more years ago about Hawaii would need rewriting now. Not so with “The Master Planter,’ however; its statements remain facts, and will have the same abiding value as has a standard encyclopedia. Leverett H. MEsIck. Honolulu, 1910. THE LATE JAMES W. GIRVIN, AUTHOR. THE MASTER PUANTER CHAPTER) A NEW HOME IN A NEW COUNTRY, AND THE INTRODUCTION OF THE HERO. WAY back in the early sixties, in a little cabin in one of the A ravines leading into Grass Valley, Nevada County, Cali- fornia, there lived a small family, the history of the head of which it is the intention to relate in the following chapters. Our hero had come from Kansas, and the miners, addicted to giving nicknames, had dubbed him “Kansas” from his hailing from that State; but in reality he had lived there only five years, having emigrated from the northern part of the State of New York. He was a tall, dark-whiskered man of thoughtful mien and reflective mood, while his wife was a sprightly little lady of a most cheerful disposition. The young couple had a child born to them in Wichita, but the little girl sickened and died, and the parents felt that Kansas could no longer be home to them, so they turned their faces westward. They had accumu- lated a little sum of money, and could have done well enough but for the spirit of unrest which took possession of them after “the light of the household” had gone out. They had a friend in Grass Valley whose glowing description of California, and especially of that region, determined them to cast in their fortunes and grow up with the State. After a long and weary journey from the end of the then uncompleted railroad they arrived at their goal. Their friend was not to be found, he having drifted after the ignis-fatuus of rich reports in a distant field, as so many of the miners did. The surrounding country pleased them, and at this season was covered with innumerable species of wild flowers such as they had never seen in the east. Although an horticulturist by study and pro- fession he saw colors such as he had never seen before. Brown, Z The Master Planter; or green, and drab lilies growing wild, yuccas ten feet high covered with a cloud of iridescent bells, flowers whose brilliancy could be matched nowhere on this mundane sphere, and the whole sur- face of the undulating country clothed with a carpet of small flowers to even name which would require chapters. The cli- mate was invigorating and the scenery grand beyond description. They decided to settle there. His occupation had been that of gardener, and he quickly determined that there was more money to be made in supplying the various neighboring mining camps with vegetables than in gold digging, and the income would be more certain. An old man who had acquired a large tract of land was pleased to give him as much as he would cultivate for a nominal share of the products. A rough little shanty, abutting a ridge, went with the claim and was to be their future home. It was sheltered beneath the umbrageous branches of one of the grand old live- oaks which dotted the plain and hillsides. Here the young couple proceeded to make their home with as much cheerfulness and unanimity as the birds which built their nests amidst the leaves of the perennial tree which covered them. Little by little they gathered around them the necessities of life and for home comfort. Women were comparatively scarce in that part, and many of the miners made a detour from the highway, nominally to ask for a drink of water, but in reality to see the little bird- nest with the Eastern robin in it. Quite a number of the miners succeeded in obtaining the privi- lege of taking their meals at Madam’s table, for which they gladly paid fifty per cent. more than they could have lived for at the mill boarding house. During the summer the table was spread under the shelter of the shady live-oak branches, and by winter a fine commodious addition had been added to the house. The home- made bread, butter, and buttermilk were luxuries to be had no- where else, and the refining influence of a good woman was ap- preciated by those who were permitted to enroll themselves as of “Kansas’s” household. His cows, chickens, eggs and garden- truck had a market limited only by the supply he was able to produce. He found the soil to be excellent, and that everything planted produced abundantly. By hauling some of the pulver- ized tailings from the mill and spreading it on the adobe soil he supplied to that clay its corrective, and the yield of beets, onions, potatoes and vegetables was something marvelous. Some of his Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 3 mangel wurtzel beets, planted for cow feed, weighed more than 150 lbs., and pumpkins grew so thickly that it was possible to walk over a field by stepping from one pumpkin to another. There were some drawbacks, however, in the form of vermin. The air teemed with birds and insects and the ground had its myriads of gophers and squirrels, while from the plain came up the cotton-tail and the jack-rabbit to devour anything green. His strawberries, raspberries and other small fruit were preyed upon by the quail, catbirds and others, whilst his melons were sought after by badgers and other quadrupeds. Deer frequently came down at night and revelled in his corn and cereals. Game was plentiful, and grizzly and brown bear threat- ened not only to decimate his pig-pen and calf-yard and honey- stands, but to make life a burden. Indians straggling through the country frightened Madam, but were harmless. The table was rarely without venison, quail, pheasant or other game. The miners united with “Kansas” in pursuing the bears, mountain lions and fur-bearing ferz, and they became somewhat scarcer. Madam was sorry sometimes to see the song birds destroyed, but self protection is the first law of nature. In the early mornings, and at even, the air would be redolent with harmony from in- numerable meadow larks and thrushes. Every bush in the chap- paral on the hillsides had its colony of bird life. The long table out of doors was frequently surrounded with men, who, judged by their rough appearance, were Ali Baba’s forty thieves, while from their conversation, which was extremely edifying, their antecedents could be discerned. Naturally, from their occupation as miners, geology and the origin and formation of the globe was frequently the theme of debate and conjecture. Still there was no subject which was not discussed. Sometimes politics was introduced, to the disgust of Madam, as that subject led to wrangles from which neither edification nor profit was to be obtained. The men were from different parts of the East and naturally disagreed. Some were Southerners, one of them hay- ing brought two slaves with him who were regularly paying him their wages on a promise of emancipation on receipt of the cost of bringing them out and to their value as estimated at home. “Kansas” had been one of th radicals in his late place of resi- dence, and it is well understood that in the State of Kansas there is to be found no one who does not take an active interest in everything pertaining to politics. The throes at the birth of that 4 The Master Planter. State had threatened to dismember the Union, and the war which was then raging was considered one of the outcomes of it. Madam almost decided to discontinue keeping boarders, and eventually succeeded in reducing the number to a few who could control themselves in the heat of political debate. Their Chinese cook and laborers appeared to be thoroughly at home in this strange land, and when Madam undertook to give them lessons in English on Sunday afternoons she had a class which appreciated her kindness. GVA Th ER it CALIFORNIA IN “THE DAYS OF OLD, THE DAYS OF GOLD, THE DAYS OF FORTY-NINE.” ALIFORNIA, covering ten degrees of latitude, has surprised the people of the United States not only in its mineral re- sources, but in the fertility of its soil and the exuberance of thought of its inhabitants. Within those ten degrees of lati- tude, which by the way have proven in the Old World to have contained the cradle of the human race, and today hold the ruins of the world’s earliest civilization, can be found a greater variety of the fauna and flora of the globe than in any other part. The appreciation which the early settlers had of its marvelous climate, scenery and possibilities was indelibly stamped on it by the manner in which they named different localities. We find Paradise, Banner, Golden Gate, Silver City, Loveland, Wood- land, Greenville, Bloody Gulch, Dead Horse, Grizzly Flat, Antioch, Acme, etc., etc., and the earlier Spanish settlers used up the whole calendar of Saints in naming the different points and localities in this great State, and finally in despair at the paucity of the calendar dubbed a bay Todos Santos (all Saints). Rough men, made hardier still through their contact with the Plutonic rocks from which they obtained the auriferous metals, named many places in accord with some obstacle which attracted their attention, as Whiskeyville, Dead Man’s Gulch, Eureka, Sacra- mento, etc. Drawn thither by the prospect of acquiring speedy wealth from mining, people of all grades of intellectual culture and from every nation under the sun can be found. It was a common thing to find men who could speak many languages as well as men who were conversant with the classics. Although a little book of fifty-two leaves was the most common, the man who found his intellectual treat in the Bible, Shakespeare, Horace, Virgil, or some of the scientific works was freely met with. All appeared equally rough, and it was only on close inspection that the diamond was discovered. Rough in appearance, wild in 6 The Master Planter; or action, and coming from different parts of the States and of the world, still men of similar thought and inclinations naturally drifted together, as the magnet will draw particles of iron from sand made up of grains of disintegrated rocks of every class. Men of every profession and trade made up the army which crossed the plains in search for gold. Amongst them there natur- ally predominated those who had followed farming or manual labor. These were observant of the natural facility of the soil to produce crops, and also of the ready market for the products. The claims made by the Spaniards prevented much of the land from being acquired by these agriculturists, but little by little many little holdings were acquired and small orchards and gar- dens began to be cultivated. Our hero’s small ranch appeared like an oasis in a desert, for California in the dry season has a most desolate and burnt-up appearance. He had brought out a small stream from the canon (or canyon) above the premises, and all shrubbery and trees as well as the vegetables planted by him throve remarkably from the supplied water. “Kansas” had excavated a cellar into the hillside, against which the house abutted, and had put down a drive well therein from which a deliciously pure water was obtained. Having procured an olla, one of those earthern vessels which the Spaniards had introduced into the country, and which the Indians made from clay and carried about for sale, and which on account of its porosity materially aided in cooling the water, he hung it to a limb of the live-oak. Thirsty travelers from all directions de- bouched from the main road to get a drink of this cooling water, and gradually the place became so central that when necessity for establishing a postoffice was felt, “Kansas” station was fixed upon as the most convenient for the miners in that whole region. Our young couple prospered in every way, and not only made money from their own exertions, but, having grub-staked several prospectors, “Kansas” was fortunate in being able to sell out of several claims to good advantage. The healthiness of the climate was remarked, and they had enjoyed life as much as could be ex- pected from the isolation Madam was compelled to endure. To make money alone was not the height of their ambition, and “Kansas” did not feel that it was justice to his wife to seclude her in a mountain camp. After four years residence in Grass Valley he determined to move to San Francisco. During their Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. V4 residence in the mountains a boy and a girl had been born to them, which materially added to the mother’s cares. He had acquired the quarter section, which he first rented from the old ranch owner, and now disposed of his holdings and the fine site for a good round sum. His intention was to either establish himself as a florist in San Francisco or engage as a scenic gar- dener with some of the wealthy nabobs of that metropolis. CRA ER Til SAN FRANCISCO, LIKE ROME, SITS PROUDLY UPON HER HILLS.* from the best works to be obtained, and was thoroughly familiar with the requisities of different soils in the mat- ter of correctives, manures, and fertilizers. Being farmer-born he appreciated the lectures at the agricultural college he had at- tended, and during his practice of several years in Kansas and in California he had the opportunity of testing many of the teach- ings he had received and also of watching his own experiments. He knew that for the best results from planting it was as neces- sary that plants should have their proper plant food as that ani- mals should have food that would digest. Also, that it was as requisite that this food should have reached its correct stage of fermentation to promote assimilation before being absorbed by the rootlets of the various plant-life. Being somewhat of an artist and designer, he had drawn many plans of flower gardens adapted to the embellishment of homes of lovers of beauty in that line. Some of the colored designs which his portfolio contained were models of carpet gardening, laby- rinthine walks bordered with vari-colored plants, which enclosed beds of brilliant flowers. Many happy hours he and his wife spent in designing parterres of beautiful flowers, grasses, border plants, etc. This was done as much for pastime as to have on hand a collection of designs or patterns as guides in selecting the most appropriate for different situations. One of his ambitions was to obtain the supervisorship of some large grounds where, with a free hand, he might make a showing of what esthetic cul- 66 K ANSAS” had made a study of the science of agriculture * She ‘‘sat,’’ for a large part of the city of San Francisco, including practically all of the business portion, was destroyed by earthquake and fire following it on the 18th and 19th of April, 1906. A monetary loss of $400,000,000 was caused; and many human lives were lost, the exact number will never be known. Phenix-like the city has risen from its ashes, and now, 1910, in about four and one-half years after its destrue- tion, is better built than the old city was. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 9 ture could effect. He did not overlook the immense market which the love of the masses for cut flowers and potted plants af- forded, but kept that in the background, as it were, as a matter of secondary consideration. Arrived in San Francisco he proceeded to endeavor to enlist some of the wealthy property owners in a scheme to ornament their homes, he to undertake the supervision of a number of such. He recognized the natural possibilities of the city, on account of its being built on many hills, for ornamental gardening. Al- though the soil of the sand dunes of the whole peninsula on which the city was built was poor, that was a matter which might easily be corrected; and the lay of the land was much better for scenic effect than would be that of a level country. After meet- ing many of the property holders and showing them his plans he found, and was surprised at it, that so few cared for the matter, and all were satisfied with such slight improvements as their wives might make. A few gave him encouragement, and thought such a scheme of cooperating in maintaining a trained gardener as somewhat in advance of the present system,—but there were not enough to warrant his undertaking the work. He abandoned the idea, and turned his attention to establishing a garden, one of the New Jersey style of florists’ gardens, wherein he could raise flowers and potted plants for sale. On looking into this field, however, he found that it was pretty well worked and the city fairly supplied. Real estate and rents were high and he could not locate himself. Turning his attention to the humble yet lucrative work of raising vegetables for the market, he found this was very largely done by Italians on the outskirts of the city as well as by farmers on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, great quantities coming in by steamers every morning. Without much capital he knew he could not compete in supplying the city markets, and he would be again burying his wife in the country. He then turned his attention to other means of providing for his family, and in his peregrinations became quite familiar with the geography of the city and its environments. He tramped over Russ Hill, viewed the city from Telegraph Hill and Black Point, and made the tour of the Presidio and Fort Point. No observing person can survey San Francisco and its noble bay and fine waterways without arriving at the conclusion that it will be the theatre of an immense commercial future. Looking at it 10 ’ The Master Planter. from an artistic standpoint, there is no part of the world that is more beautiful. From Telegraph Hill, as the observer turns on a pivot, the vista, on a clear day, is truly magnificent. Apparently the atmosphere of central California is as pure as in any region on the face of the globe, for the eye can discern points at great distances. San Francisco has been endowed with many advantages, and if man will only make use of them it will assuredly be the center of commerce which will control the trade of the countries which border on the Pacific. The great fresh- water ways flowing towards it will force on her the wealth of the immense agricultural provinces watered by them. The great num- bers of men who were attracted to the State by the discovery of gold, were largely composed of men from the rural walks of life. These quickly discerned the great wealth the State had in her agricultural lands, and soon abandoned the search for the auri- ferous metals. Many of the large Spanish grants were subdivided and the cattle driven off, and the lands turned into orchards, vineyards and farms. In early days most of the foodstuffs was brought around the Horn, or from Chili, or the islands of the Pacific. In a few years the Eastern immigrants had fgodstuffs to export, and agriculture began to vie with mining for the first place. Grand as was the outlook for the future city, our hero tried in vain to place himself. In his travels or tramps along the water- front he frequently saw vessels discharging cargoes of sugar and molasses, and tropical fruits, from the Sandwich Islands, and talked with the officers about the prospects there for a working man. Although he received but little encouragement from them, he concluded that a country which produced such large quantities of sugar might be made to yield a living, at least, to a couple who were willing to work. He and his wife made as much of a study of the Islands as was possible from the few descriptive works on Hawaii to be found in the public libraries, and decided to go there and try their fortunes. It was a leap in the dark, but they had ample means to return if the country should not prove satisfactory. CHAP ER IV OFF FOR THE ISLANDS—SIGHT OF DIAMOND HEAD COMPENSATES FOR AN UNCOMFORTABLE VOYAGE. O save their little hoard they resolved to economize in every way, and to that end engaged passage in the steerage on a small bark which made regular trips to the port of Hono- lulu. They had never traveled on the sea before, and looked for- ward to the trip as to a picnic when one camps out for a season. They laid in a little stock of provisions and comforts, and took up their quarters on board the evening before the vessel was to sail. Early in the morning the vessel was towed to sea, and after the bar was crossed they began to realize the immensity of the ocean. Their quarters were rude and uncomfortable; it was cold and miserable, and, to add to the discomfort, all four were wretchedly seasick. The great strong man seemed to be the most affected, and could not help his family. Fortunately, a kindly lady in the cabin, who was an islander, a daughter of a mission- ary, and a good sailor, had noticed the children and devoted her- self to their comfort. For three days the sky was overcast, and alternate showers and squalls added to the wretchedness of the voyage. Many a time, during those three days, did the miserable couple wish they were back on terra firma. Then came the genial weather and sun- shine, together with the trade winds, and they began to feel better and enjoy the trip, and help themselves. They began to really enjoy the voyage, and sitting on deck they learned very much of the islands from those who were returning residents. Not hav- ing had the opportunity in San Francisco of meeting islanders, their information was indeed very meager. From the mission- ary lady they heard much of the hardships of the early mission, and of the success in converting the natives to Christianity. Also of the ravages caused to the aboriginal population by the intro- duction of disease and rum by sailors. Much also of the char- acter of the natives, and of their innate hospitable reception of aliens from any land. 12 The Master Planter; or From the stories told, a very good impression of the natives was obtained. ‘“‘Kansas” became quite intimate with a man who had passed several years on the islands, and who described the cultivation of sugar and told of the opportunities for investments. It appeared that only a large capital would warrant any one in going into that industry, and from his remarks it appeared, also, there was no other that a white man could make a success at. When fifteen days out, the island of Maui was sighted, the cap- tain saying that the mountain thereon, Haleakala, was ten thou- sand feet high, and visible from a great distance. Sailing along they passed the island of Molokai, and had a fine view of its precipitous mountain range. Then the island of Oahu approached, and the beautiful valleys thereon opened up one by one with en- chanting beauty. Rounding Diamond Head, the town of Hono- lulu, together with the forest of masts in its harbor, appeared. The great forest of cocoa palms which fringed the shore, to- gether with the wealth of foliage of lesser umbrageous trees, created a pleasing impression of the tropical beauty of the place. From the deck of the vessel the panorama presented was a most charming one. The difference between the gloomy, forbidding and sunburnt coast of California, which they had just left, and the verdure-covered peaks of the Island of Oahu, was like the awakening from a dismal nightmare. With an artistic and al- most prophetic eye our hero could see a brilliant future for Hono- lulu. Diamond Head, which they had just rounded, stood out in bold relief, and no one asked why it had been called Diamond Head, as that was the natural name for it, its clear-cut, precipitous sides reminding one more of the facets of a cut diamond than of anything else. Far ahead of the ship could be seen another range of mountains similar in appearance to that at the rear of the city. At the margin of the neck of land which connected the two ranges lay a loch, called Pearl Harbor, upon whose smooth waters the sun glistened. Many valleys, whose sides were cov- ered with verdure of different shades, opened towards the sea, giving promise of enchanting drives and points to lure the sight- seer. Although our hero and his family had forgotten the hardships and misery of the first part of the trip, and were enjoying to the full the balance of the voyage, they, with the cabin passengers, were glad to get ashore. “Kansas” was a brave man, and was not intimidated by what Life in the Cane Fields of Hawait. 13 he had learned of the unlikelihood of succeeding on the islands. Although the impression he obtained was that there was a great distinction made between rich and poor, and that the prospects for a poor man were not bright, he did not apply it to himself. He had never felt poverty, and had always been able to make provision for his wife and family. In Kansas and California, they were not considered poor, the masses being of their own class. He had been well educated in the public schools, had been a year at an agricultural college and had taught school two win- ters before he had met the young woman who had agreed to take him for better or for worse, and they had gone west. Now they were to live in a country where there was a marked dis- tinction between those who had the possession of money, accident- ally or otherwise, and those who had none. This they could not realize. It did not disturb them very much, as they had within themselves all that was necessary to make life happy, and they merely sought the opportunity to make a living by their own ex- ertions. Also, they were in a foreign country, which they soon found out, as their baggage was thoroughly examined by customs officers, and “Kansas” was compelled to pay two dollars for a permit to land. There were no hotels nor hotel runners, and they hired a push-cart to carry their effects to a lodging house in a part of the city where rents were low. Everything seemed strange to them, and in some respects the city appeared like a frontier town. Half naked kanakas carrying sticks over their shoulders, with bundles of dried grass or cala- bashes filled with poi (the staple of life of the Hawaiian), shocked the woman. Numbers of Chinese thronged the streets, and car- ried on innumerable dirty looking restaurants and small shops. The narrow, crooked and winding streets, lined with houses of all descriptions, from those built of rough coral slabs, to frame struc- tures of all imaginable styles of architecture, and with over- hanging verandas, gave one an impression of a place which had grown up, and not been laid out, as the majority of American towns and cities have been. Many rude sailors thronged the streets, forming the crews of the innumerable whaleships in the harbor. Their actions and language, and the heedlessness with which they rode through the city on horses, alarmed our new- comers. The food at the restaurants was good, but they soon found it inconvenient to take the children out three times a day 14 The Master Planter. along the narrow, thronged and ill-kept sidewalks. Finally they obtained lodgings at the Sailors’ Home, a fine building which was kept by a delightful old American lady, who seemed like a mother to all. CEA TE Riv HONOLULU AS IT WAS IN DAYS OF YORE—GRASS HOUSES AND MANY THINGS THAT WOULD BE CURIOS NOW. S they got opportunities to see more of the city, they found A that there were many homes of refinement situated on the main avenue leading up Nuuanu Valley. These were set well back from the street, and were surrounded by a wealth of tropical foliage, and gave the tourist an impression of home and comfort. They climbed Punchbowl, a hill 500 feet high in the rear of the city, from where they obtained a magnificent view of the city, its harbor, and the whole surrounding country. The spires of churches loomed up through the foliage which covered everything. The prospect was entrancing. Grass houses of the natives looked like last year’s haystacks, but were by no means numer- ous, they having been superseded largely with frame structures. Cocoa palms here and there had prominence over the lower forms of shrubbery, and bore the appearance of frayed-out umbrellas. A glamour seemed to have possessed cur travelers, for they were charmed with everything in view. They were reminded of the saying of one of the passengers, “that any one who lives on the islands for a time will assuredly come back.’ The balmy air, the evenness of the temperature, the geniality of expression on the faces of all the conglomerate inhabitants, and the pleasant sur- roundings must be chargeable with this restful, homelike impres- sion. The harbor was small, but seemed adequate for the business of the port. Business appeared to be brisk, and a spirit of con- tentment possessed all with whom they came in contact. The natives, especially the women, were decked out in the most brilliant colors of silks and prints. Both men and women wore leis (wreaths) of flowers or ferns around their hats, the latter being principally home-made from cocoa or other palm leaves. It was quite com- mon to see bare feet peeping from under silk gowns, probably from the comfort of going barefooted. Carriages were not very 16 The Master Planter; or numerous, although drays for carrying merchandise were quite common. It was a frequent sight to see natives seated on push carts, together with their household effects, being moved from ene part of the city to another. Gangs of prisoners working on the street, in parti-colored garments, under the charge of a turn- key, were continually on the move. It was also the rule to hire out prisoners to private individuals, as gardeners or chore-men. Amongst the prisoners a few white men were seen, but they were principally natives or Chinese. Evidently, there was no peni- tentiary where prisoners could be kept employed within walls at the manufacture of merchantable wares, as in cities on the main- land. Uniformed native police and soldiers appeared to be quite numerous. The meat and fish markets seemed to be well stocked and well patronized. It was quite a treat to visit the fish market, where both were sold, and watch the manner of selling and de- livery of the wares. The market was always interesting, from the great variety of curious and beautifully colored fishes, varie- ties which were strange to the markets on the mainland. To note how quickly a native salesman would wrap up fish in a couple of leaves, which afforded a handle for carrying the package and at the same time a vehicle, dish, or mode for cooking the same, when the buyer had arrived at home. On visiting the houses of natives, who always welcomed the stranger, our travelers were surprised at the simplicity of the domestic arrangements. To make a fire in a small hole sur- rounded with stones and place a saucepan over it, as the miners did, was the only way (excepting the cooking of taro) what cook- ing they did was performed. Many kinds of fish were eaten raw, but this did not have the repulsive features about it that one wouid expect. When properly cleaned and cut up in lumps there was no blood and gurry, and on trying it they found that it was as delicious as raw oysters, and equally digestible. It was quite common to see natives carrying coffee or tea-pots from Chinese restaurants, somewhat the way some of our people “rush the growler” in the East. Saddle horses appeared to be very numerous, and men and women rode equally astride. It did not appear to be unbecoming for women to ride astride, as they had invented a garment for the purpose. It was wrapped around the hips and extended down the inner side of the leg, and was held in place by the great toe in the stirrup. Generally Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 7) they were made of the most brilliant colors to be had, and a caval- cade of native women galloping through the streets made a very pretty sight. For a tropical country the markets afforded very little variety of fruits. Oranges, breadfruit, ohias (mountain apples), bananas, and a few guavas, were all that was noticeable, whereas in the West Indies a hundred kinds of fruit would be offered. There appeared to be considerable drunkenness on the streets, and even amongst the native men and women, although it was a serious misdemeanor to furnish liquor to them. The police ap- peared to be quite active, and on the slightest manifestation of inebriety in a sailor, he would be taken to the station house, from whence he did not depart until he contributed his share towards the support of the government. A small foundry and machine shop seemed to be very busy turning out sugar machinery, but it was said that most of that used on the islands was imported.* There was a very large fleet of small schooners which plied between the islands, and one steamer, although for speed the schooners were preferable. Great quantities of produce came in regularly, and the wharves pre- sented a busy sight where these small craft were discharging their cargoes of oranges, rice, corn, pigs and cattle. The natives were great travelers, and the decks of these small vessels appeared to be as full of passengers as it was possible. Large quantities of lumber were being piled up along the wharves, and the change from grass houses to frame buildings had set in all over the islands. There appeared to be no attempt to export tropical fruits, nor in fact anything but sugar, rice, and whalebone and oil. The discovery of rock oil, or petroleum, and *This is one of many industries in which Hawaii has forged ahead wonderfully, ever abreast of the world’s progress. The Honolulu Iron Works is not only now manufacturing practically all the sugar mill machinery used in the phenomenally-enlarged sugar industry of the group, but is building and erecting mills in Mexico and the Far East in competition, with the world. At this time (1910) the biggest sugar mill in the world is being built at the Honolulu Iron Works for the Philippines and will be in operation in 1911; by biggest is meant the largest rollers, not the capacity of the mill. A mill in Cuba is said to have the greatest output capacity, with our own Puunene, on Maui, second. Nearly two dozen of the Hawaiian mills are to the credit of this wide-awake concern. An order is now in hand, from Japanese sources, for the sixth big mill for Formosa. 18 The Master Planter. the numerous uses it could be applied to in illuminating and for machinery, was said to have reduced the price of whale oil, and that industry would cease. The merchants talked over the mat- ter, and it did not appear as if there was anything which could take its place. The rock-bound coast of most of the islands, and the lack of harbors, Honolulu being the only true harbor in the archipelago, gave the impression that the cultivation of sugar must be limited. Coffee, cotton and tobacco had been tried, but for various reasons success in any of them was not prognosticated. The district of Kona, on Hawaii, produced a magnificent, aromatic coffee, but it was said that the scarcity of hands for picking it and the low prices of Central American and Brazilian coffee, with which it would have to contend in the market, would prevent the industry from ever assuming large proportions. “Kansas” tramped the streets and made numerous acquaint- ances, and his Yankee style of making inquiries into every pos- sible matter was remarked. He studied the maps of the different islands, and was given all possible assistance in the survey office. From the surveyors, who had tramped over the different locali- ties, he learned very much. CHAP PE Raval “KANSAS” IS BUSY INVESTIGATING THE BUSINESS POSSIBILITIES— LIVELY TIMES IN THE DAYS OF THE WHALER MAN. HE principal food of the natives was taro (arum esculen- tum), and it was also used in every home. He studied the cultivation of it, and found that it was raised in patches which were diked about with earth or stone embank- ments at great expense. It was raised in water, that is, after the patches were dried up and dug up and the tops of the plant set in mud the water was turned on and it was kept flooded until nearly ripe, probably 12 or 14 months, and then pulled and the tops cut off for future planting, and the roots sold in sacks or made into poi, a paste made by washing, cooking and mash- ing the taro and mixing with water. It was a very wholesome food, and our travelers liked taro in any form, either as plain boiled, baked, made into cakes, or as poi. “Kansas” soon saw that he could not compete with the natives in the cultivation of taro, as it required weeding and working as well as any other vegetable, and this could only be done by wading in mud, the best way of doing which was the native style, i. e., naked, with a breech clout on. He saw the love of all classes for flowers and knew that he could make a success of that business, although the natives were very good natural gardeners, and in their little patches raised great quantities. He tramped up Nuuanu Valley, where a small sugar plantation was being carried on. In conversation with the owner he was proffered work, but at a very small salary. When he told that he had a wife and two children to support, the planter said they had no accommodations for a white woman on the place, and “Kansas” could not live on the pay. He went over the Pali, the great precipice which was said to be the scene of Kamehameha First’s last battle in subjugating the islands, and visited two sugar estates on the Koolau side. At both places he was nicely received, and at either of them he could have obtained work, but neither of them had accommoda- 20 The Master Planter; or tions for a white woman, and the pay offered was very small. Still, the more he saw of sugar the more he was interested in_its culture, and was sure that he could make a success of it if he could only catch on. He and his wife talked over all matters that he learned in his peregrinations, and she could not under- stand why there should be much objection to a man who had a family. They felt that they had made a grievous mistake in coming to the islands, but she saw his inclination to the sugar industry, and they determined that he should see more of the country be- fore deciding to return to California. He had taken note of the Chinese gardens, which as a rule consisted of several taro patches, dried up and cultivated by hand, as there was no room for a plow. They paid very high rentals for these lands, especially those near to the city limits, and they packed their produce from door to door, in baskets carried on long sticks or poles across the shoulders. He always had admired the indefatigable industry of the Chinese, but never thought to be brought into competition with it. They worked very hard, and even in the night might be seen watering their little vegetable gardens. There was no room for him in the gardening industry, which he so well understood. He saw the love of flowers and greenery displayed in the homes of the foreign population, and knew that he could make money at potting plants and ferns,—but the sugar cultivation was what he wished to get into. He and his wife endeavored to see all they could of Honolulu, but there were not many public conveyances. Occasionally he induced an old skipper to take his wife out in a rambling old chaise, which looked as if it had come out in the ark, and that Noah, himself, just over a drunken spell, was driving it. It was a good deal better than staying at home, as walking in the tropics, to one not used to it, is very trying. Saddle horses were very numerous, and he induced his wife to learn to use the saddle. The old lady at the Home gladly took charge of the children at times, and they were enabled to get about and see somewhat of the surroundings of the city. They climbed to the top of Punchbowl, from where they obtained a magnificent view of the whole adjacent country. Far to the west a charming vista pre- sented. An immense field of emerald, at certain parts of which the sea was enclosed, forming lagoons, appeared to afford agri- cultural possibilities. This great slope was well watered by Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 21 numerous streams from the range of mountains which was the backbone of the island of Oahu. On riding over these lands he found they were only cultivated in the valleys or near the margin of the lagoons, and was told that the balance of the land was very poor soil and was very shallow. The taro, sweet potatoes and bananas which throve so luxuriously in that region, were brought up to the city in boats. The roads were merely horse-trails, and, except one, barely wide enough for running gear. He did not believe that lands which produced so heavy a crop of weeds was poor soil, and judged that it was the system of ownership which prevented them from being cultivated. If he had seen the land at another season when all would be burnt up for lack of water, he might not have come to the same conclusion. The verdant appearance was caused by the dense growth of the indigofera aml plant which had been brought from India with the expectation of cultivating and making indigo. The discovery of the art of making indivo from chemicals had destroyed that hope. He tested the soil and found in many places it was but 12 to 18 inches in depth, covering a strata of coral. Evidently it had been upheaved from the sea and was slowly being covered with alluvion. They galloped across the plains to Waikiki and watched the natives disporting in the sea. To sit under a hau tree and watch the king and his people riding the surf on boards or in canoes was one of the treats. Surely, of all aquatic sports, this must be the one which afforded the greatest amusement. The dexterity with which they handled their surf-boards, and fearlessness with which they rode waves that threatened certain destruction, was a most fascinating sight to a stranger. Either the novelty of tropical life or the beauty of all the sur- roundings, had a charm for “Kansas” and his wife which made them feel that they would strive to make a home on the islands. The stores where whaling captains obtained their supplies were naturally resorts for these hardy men, and here they delighted to congregate and hear and tell stories of their experiences in the Arctic. It is said that here they have killed more and greater whales than ever were taken, and that the described perils were as vividly depicted as an appreciative audience could wish. To visit from ship to ship was called “gamming,”’ and in calm weather, when no whales were in sight, it was a very common Zz The Master Planter; or occurrence for “the old man” to call away a boat and pull to one of the vessels in the neighborhood for the sake of passing an hour or two in exchanging gossip or to test the neighbor’s cuisine. A lot of these captains delighted to renew their ac- quaintance in Honolulu, and would sit around by the hour “swapping yarns.’ The chairs they occupied bore the marks of the knives of the “old skippers” who, unconsciously, in their interest in the recitals, whittled away at the arms or wooden seats. One storekeeper, to protect his furniture, drove tacks in every possible spot, but the next season the skippers industriously proceeded to dig out the tacks with their valuable pocket knives. Absentmindedness appeared to be a feature with some of these whaler men. A story is told of one of them who came in coat- less, and, having purchased a coat and paid for it, he joined the circle of yarn spinners. Presently he threw off the garment in his excitement of telling a good one. Then he remembered that he came in to buy a coat, and proceeded to fit himself out again. In the thrilling excitement of listening to some startling story, the coat was discarded and he became wrapped up in the narra- tive. Again he remembered the object of his visit to the store, and he purchased another coat. This was repeated three times during the evening. When closing time came he was handed back the amount he had over-paid. It went to show that sailors and their money are soon parted. Some of them did not, how- ever, leave their business shrewdness on the other side of Cape Horn, where they were said to have left their consciences, and instances are told of storekeepers being induced to put in a bill for fifty sacks of potatoes, against the ship, whereas in fact a gold watch was the merchandise which was delivered. A glimpse into “Liberty Hall” or “the National’ saloons would show how the sailor made his hard earned money fly, and give the reader somewhat of an idea of the effect of rum and white man’s influence on the native race. The latter was a two- storied structure with a large saloon on the ground floor, while the second story had two bars in constant occupation during the whale season. Music and dancing enticed the sailors, and numer- ous native women sat around ready to be partners, either for round or square dances. The latter were most in vogue, as more of the awkward sailors could take part in them than in waltzes or polkas. The caller controlled the dance, and at the end of the fifth figure would call out, “March your partner to the bar,” and Life in the Cane Fields of Hawai. Za men and women would find themselves lined up to the bar as many as a hundred at a time. Drinks were twenty-five cents each, and when Jack threw down his dollar or a twenty or even a fifty dollar “slug” in payment for his and partner’s gin, there would be no change back. Some told ‘““Kansas” at the Home that they repented, when at sea, of having squandered their hard-earned money, even saying that with comrades in the fo’c’s’le they had gone down on their knees and solemnly vowed to God never to touch liquor again, and to save their money for their families at home who were de- pendent on them. They were so improvident as to even part with their spare clothing, and go to sea without a sufficiency to shield themselves from the miseries of the Arctic cold. Here they would be compelled to apply to the “slop chest,” and were again robbed, as the ‘“‘shoddy” dealt out to them was not worth one- fourth the amount charged up for it against their share of the season’s catch. CHAR TE RuUV il HONOLULU AND THE CHURCHES OF THE OLD DAYS—OUR HERO AGAIN AT SEA, BUT ALONE. HEY visited the native churches, as well as the foreign, and remarked that the populace was at least a church-going one. The large native churches were filled to repletion, and they felt repaid by their observations of the congregations. The dress of both men and women was unique, to say the least. Some of the women were dressed in silks, their hats were of the latest style and their colored kid gloves were quite conspicuous. Others were dressed in gaudy colored calicoes, and wore their native hats with wreaths of ferns or flowers. The men appeared to love to display silk hats, broadcloth clothes, and all felt that it was necessary to wear shoes that could squeak, probably to show their newness. However, whatever their peculiarities of dress were, it was apparent that they were devout worshippers, as was attested by the volume of sound when a hymn was given out. Evidently the natives are natural musicians, as the singing was excellent, all parts in the melodies being well sustained. The language seems to be well adapted to song, as much so as the Italian. The preacher, a white man, was very much in earnest, and the congregation appeared to be much interested. Our travelers could not understand any part of the service, except the tunes, which were exceedingly familiar, such as “From Greenland’s Icy Mountains,” “Rock of Ages,” etc., to which the missionaries had adapted Hawaiian words. A matter which caught their attention was the continual wheezing and coughing all over the vast congregation, and which must have been more or less distracting to the worshippers. Evidently it was the sign of the pulmonary diseases which have decimated the population of the islands, the change from nudity to wearing clothes weakening the cuticle and making the party susceptible to colds and influenza, formerly so freely repelled by a skin inured to sun and rain. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 25 There were two foreign churches in the city, one a very large one on Fort street, where the most of the fashionable people at- tended. The pastor in charge was a very eloquent speaker, and was worthy of the large salary it was said he received. The choir was well trained and was not, as in the East, composed of paid singers. Of two of the sopranos one has since made a national reputation as an opera singer. Our travelers felt more at home in a little church in the rear of the Sailors’ Home, called the Seaman’s Bethel. The earnest old preacher seemed like a father to his congregation, and was interested in the personal welfare of each member. He often talked with “Kansas” and his wife, and gave them great encour- agement of ultimate success on the islands. In both churches, however, they were taken by the hand by members and made welcome to the city, and asked to call at the different homes. They needed more than the “glad hand” just then, and it was all depending on his exertions. For his wife’s sake he was ex- tremely anxious to live in Honolulu, and to that end sought em- ployment of any nature. Had he a trade or profession he could have done very well, as wages to mechanics were good and em- ployment was easy to be obtained. As an ordinary laborer he could not earn sufficient to keep them. Much as they admired the churches, Sunday schools and so- ciety of the city, and strong as was their desire to make a home in Honolulu, all his attempts to do so met with no success, and they determined that he should visit some of the other islands. This was their first separation, and they felt very sad over it, and determined it should be but a short one. “Man proposes and God disposes,” is an old saying, and in this instance was a true one. He decided to go first to Lahaina, on Maui, and after seeing that island go to Hawaii. Traveling on inter-island ves- sels 1s quite expensive, and he asked the captain of a little schooner if he might take a deck passage. The captain said that “white men did not travel that way, but if he was hard up he would give him a passage.” He denied being so poor as to be unable to pay his passage and was finally permitted to pay two dollars for a “deck passage” to Lahaina, the captain telling him that he would have to provide his own food and blankets, and that they frequently made the trip in a night, but were sometimes two or three days. Taking his roll of blankets and a package of lunch, he bade his wife and little ones a sad farewell. 26 The Master Planter. Again he was at sea, but this time on a little bobbing schooner, whose action was so different from that of the noble bark on which they had arrived that he soon succumbed to the mal de mer. Lying on deck with the spray dashing over him, and the wind blowing down onto him from the foresail, surrounded by kanakas, wahines and sea-sick Chinamen, and feeling so wretched, he thought he had reached the lowest round of the ladder. Now and then the schooner would ship a sea, often caused by the wheelman to make the deck passengers squeal; and the com- bination of pigs, sour smelling poi, calabashes, traveling tins, wet children crying, and sick Chinamen was almost more than human nature could bear. Then when the breeze died out the schooner would roll in the trough of the sea, and the sails would slat about, exposing the passengers to the blazing tropical sun. Our hero paid very little attention to the view of Molokai or Lanai as the schooner either drifted up the channel or wallowed in the trough of the sea, at times in close proximity to either of these islands. Why a man should go to sea at all, when the United States was still “large enough to give us all a farm,” he could not comprehend; and he there decided that he would go back to that fair land as soon as Providence would let him. The resolutions of a sea-sick man are probably based on the action of the changing positions of the molecules which compose the brain, and are as permanent as the beautiful pictures seen in the ordinary kaleidoscope. Oh, the misery of those two nights up the channel to Lahaina! it burned an impression on his soul never to be effaced. Afterwards he felt grateful that he had been so horribly sick, as his sense of wretchedness was thereby blunted. On the second morning the schooner came to her an- chorage at Lahaina, and innumerable clamorous boat boys swarmed her decks, vieing with each other for the privilege of carrying the passengers ashore. CAE TE. RIV El LAHAINA, THE FORMER CAPITAL OF THE KINGDOM—MORE DIS- COURAGEMENTS FOR THE MAN FROM KANSAS. ROM the anchorage, which is in the roadstead, Lahaina ap- i peared to be embowered in trees, amongst which the bread- fruit, cocoanut, kukui and mango maintained the suprem- acy. Situated at the base of a serrated range of mountains, which were clothed in verdure from the peaks to the sea, it pre- sented the most charming aspect. Many grass huts and a few frame houses lined the beach for a distance of more than four miles, from which it appeared that the inhabitants preferred to live near the shore. On going ashore, however, our hero was surprised to find that the umbrageous foliage concealed the great- er part of the town. Streets there were along which adobé build- ings, in every stage of decay or dilapidation, ranged themselves. The first impression the visitor gained was that when a build- ing fell there it was a public improvement. Lahaina had been the capital, and in its day boasted of the “halepiula,” or palace of the king. Evidently, the foreigner had brought there, in earliest days, the art of building houses from adobé, as practiced by the Spaniards in California. These buildings, when kept in repair and the scoving or surface of plaster maintained, present a hand- some appearance, but when the thatched roof is allowed to fall off or get out of repair, are very quickly destroyed by the fierce tropical rains. The coming of the schooner had apparently brought out all the inhabitants of the town and the surrounding country, and our hero was surprised to note the great number of horses and riders dressed in the gayest of colors. He afterwards learned that every man, woman and child owned a horse, pasturing it on any one’s land. The natives appeared very friendly, none failing to wish him a hearty “aloha.” He found lodgings in a house sur- rounded with canefields, and after getting a bath and change of clothing proceeded to find a restaurant. His first impressions of Lahaina were extremely pleasant, and he hoped to be able to find 28 The Master Planter; or employment there and to get his beloved family again with him, never to part again. Chinese restaurants were numerous, but he found an old Dutch baker who kept a coffee shop, and who had the reputation of making the best bread on the islands. Perhaps he did not do justice to that first meal? The baker thought he was hungry. On the way up to the sugar mill to seek employment, he did not fail to notice the thriftiness of the cane on either side of the road, and the innumerable stalks which sprang from one hill. It was all under irrigation and grew in trenches where the water was permitted to settle away. Arrived at the mill, he met one of ” the owners, who talked freely with him of the news of the main- land and of the war and the prospects. After asserting his capa- bilities as a farmer, he made inquiry as to the possibilities of get- ting employment. He was promptly answered that they had no work for him, firstly because he did not understand the work, nor the language, and could not therefore act as a luna or overseer, and they would not let a white man work in the fields as a com- mon laborer. Neither could they place him as a teamster or as a laborer in the sugar house. They had natives for teamsters, and Chinamen for dryers and packers, and the only white men on the place were the overseers and mechanics. He told the planter that he was a practical farmer, and could do any part of the agricul- tural work on the plantation. That he was extremely anxious to get work, as he had a wife and two children in Honolulu to sup- port, and that he would be content with a very small salary until such times as his services were appreciated. The planter in- formed him that there were no accommodations on the place for a white woman, and they could not employ him. Crestfallen, he walked away down towards the beach, where he chatted with an American storekeeper. On inquiry as to the con- sumption of vegetables and from whence they came, he was as- sured that they did not use much in that line, and that beef and Lanai mutton and taro were the mainstay of Lahaina. Taro grew prolifically in the concealed valleys back of the town, and potatoes came from Kula on the other side of the island. He seemed to be balked at every turn. He remarked that he saw overseers riding round herding Chinese and natives, and he reckoned he could do that kind of work, or handle the plow. “Ah, my dear sir,” said the storekeeper, “you cannot talk the language, and, moreover, there is not a plow on the plantation.” Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 29 Was it possible this great crop of cane was planted by hand labor? Yes, the lands which aggregated this great plantation were all trenched by shovel and mattock. The expense was enor- mous, but he was informed that one planting was sufficient from which to cut cane for five years, and there was some that had not been replanted in sixteen years. The second and succeeding crops were called rattoons, which, if well cared for and frequently irrigated, produced almost as much as that from the first planting. Our hero reckoned he would have the proper kind of plow at work if he was the owner. He suggested that he could learn the language and cane culture. “No doubt of that,” said the merchant, “but you will find that planters are not breaking in white men.” Poor white men were looked at suspiciously, unless they were mechanics. There certainly seemed no show for him. He wan- dered around the plantation observing the manner in which the cane was planted and studying the plant itself. Also he ascended towards Lahainaluna, the college where native graduates from the common schools were finished off. He noted the source of the streams which irrigated the fields, and saw that Lahaina was most aptly situated for an immense rich plantation. On call- ing at the college he was pleasantly entertained by the principal, and shown through the rooms, and the nature of the studies of the young men. The teaching was in native, and the scholars appeared very intelligent. They did their own planting of taro and sweet potatoes, and their friends furnished them some fish and meats, and altogether the tuition and living cost very little. Many of the graduates obtained employment as surveyors, and some went into law or the pulpit, the majority, however, drifting back to their ordinary mode of life. Lahaina appeared to have every advantage for sugar culture, not only from its rich soil, abundance of water and proximity to the landing, but from the natural lay of the land, the cane getting the benefit of the sun until the last minute of the day. The heat at midday was something remarkable, but the mornings and even- ings were delightful. In the evening he met an old missionary, one of the class he had read so much of in his earlier days. He was invited to call and met the missionary’s wife and daughter. They chatted familiarly with him, heard of his wife and little ones with sympathetic ears, and could not realize the barrier which stood between him and an opportunity to earn a liveli- 30 The Master Planter; or hood. The house was one of those old adobe or stone buildings, carefully whitewashed, and having green blinds. Standing back from the street it had the appearance of comfort and home. In after years, in riding to Lahaina on jury duty or court busi- ness, it seemed to loom up as a place where true rest from the heat of the road or business cares was certain. They showed him many curios from the northern seas, presented by their whaling friends, and also many rare shells and curios from the south, which had been sent by brother missionaries. They admitted that he was the stamp of a man the country was in need of, and urged him to keep up his courage and he would get an opportun- ity to show his worth. The old missionary remarked “That Ha- Waii was a country where a man found his level sooner than in any other.” How we do love sympathy? It appeared that the few words of sympathy extended to him by these old people had done him more good than anything that had happened since his arrival at Honolulu. They invited him to breakfast, but he declined on the ground that he wished to make an early start for the other side of the island. They said their boys were engaged as over- seers on some of the plantations over there, but knew they could be of no assistance, as they were not sure of their own tenure of office, in that it had been decided to reduce the number of em- ployees. “yb a aes ae Sate eS = ea Var wes AA a he -_ a ents 7 oo ae mee tt Bp ies et On ar, ws ee erie Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 35 numerous inhabitants have been superseded by Asiatics and whites. Fine stone churches, each with a handful of members, stand as monuments to the labor of the early missionaries in each village. This also is the history of every district on the islands. Imported cattle have denuded the mountains of verdure as far up as they could climb, and reduced the water supply by destroying the rain and cloud-catching evergreens. Nature will soon recover, however, if the cause is removed. It is said that in old times great numbers of cocoanut palms grew along the sea coast, below this district, not one of which is seen today. All had been destroyed in the frequent internecine wars, and the sugar planter finds the trunks embedded deep in the alluvion carried down by the furious torrents which take place almost annually. The harbor of the district, Kahului, is a very beautiful one, and yet has not the necessary protection from the sea to make it a safe one at all seasons. The fishing rights of the chiefs of the different lands, bordering on the sea, were most strictly enforced, and the natives being expert fishermen regularly fed the fish to encourage them in coming. From the sea the range of mountains with the extensively cultivated lands in the fore- ground, makes one of the prettiest pictures of island scenery. CHAPTER K AT WAILUKU “KANSAS” IS ADVISED TO “KEEP ON TRYING’ IN SPITE OF THE DISHEARTENING OUTLOOK. RRIVING at Wailuku, and securing good lodgings and get- ting refreshed, our hero strolled down to the sugar mill. The manager was a very pleasant man, invited him in and showed him the whole working of the establishment— the grinding, liming to correct acidity, boiling in open train, distributing into coolers for crystallization, and packing in kegs for the market. Here all seemed to go like clockwork. The mill was on a side hill, and half of the cane of the plantation had to be carted across the valley and up the hill. Once up, the whole process was down, down to the very cooper shop where the keg- ging was done. “Did it pay to haul; would it not be better to have the mil] lower down?” queried our hero. “Yes,” the manager said, “but the mill was here, and we can- not make up our minds to make the change.” This man appreciated the man from Kansas, and invited him to dinner and to spend the evening. He is a bachelor, and will be glad of company. Then comes the after-dinner chat on the ve- randa. The Kansas man finds it takes longer to bring cane to maturity in Wailuku than in Lahaina, as they preferred the native red cane which was slower in growth than the small yellow cane used there. “Would it not pay to try the Lahaina cane?” asked “Kansas.” “No,” said the manager, “we are perhaps prejudiced against it; any way we think the cane we have is the best adapted to this section.” ; The Lahaina cane is richer in saccharine matter, but it is so small. During the conversation the manager heard the whole story of our hero’s adventure to the islands, and realized his trouble. “You will have an up-hill fight, my friend,” said he. “This is not a poor man’s country. Of course the poor are the most nu- Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. SY/ merous, but how are you going to get a start with the weight around your neck which you have in the form of a wife and fam- ily? They must live, and you cannot get any pay worth speaking of short of two years hence.” Then the Kansas man told him of the waste and lack of econ- omy, and of intelligent culture he had observed, etc., etc. The manager replied, “What you say is true, and we have not got down to Eastern economy and methods yet; but the profits are so large that we can afford to overlook those little things.” “Some day you will not overlook anything,” said “Kansas”; “all will be needed in competition.” Then he asked if the man- ager could give him employment. “No,” said he, “although I believe you are competent and will eventually succeed. I have run over the whole field and do not see where I could place you. There is nothing but the most de- meaning work I could set you at, and I would not do that.” “What yould you advise?” said “Kansas.” “Keep on trying. Go to Waihee and see their plant. They may be able to place you, but I understand they have a whole lot of missionary boys there and have orders to cut down their force. Anyhow, I should keep on trying.” It looked very blue for this practical man, that he could not get an opportunity to show his worth. CHAPTER VA! THE MISSIONARIES HAD TROUBLE, TOO—OUR HERO HAS WORK AT LAST, BUT AS “SHIPPED MAN.” HE next morning our hero started for Waihee, a distance of three or four miles. Walking through the fields, he took note of the careful manner in which the cultivation was done, the plow being used everywhere, and the cane laid out in rows in most systematic manner, so that while getting the full benefit of the irrigation it also was open to trade winds so far as possible. He was overtaken by a man riding a mule, who accosted him in a friendly manner and conversed with him in re- gard to his impressions of the country and especially of the fields. “Kansas” replied that what he saw came nearer to his idea of a proper method of cultivation than on any other plantation. “T am glad to hear you say so,” said the rider; “I am the man- ager of Waihee plantation, but one of the missionaries of La- haina laid out the plowing and planting, and is overseeing the cultivation.” The rider asked him if he was interested in sugar. He replied that he was deeply interested; and then as they went along told him the story of his great desire to learn the business, and of his capabilities in the farming line. The manager said, “You are the kind of man we want, and we would like very much to have you and your family settled with us and form part of the small society at Waihee; but, unfortunately, I am not able to give you employ- ment, as I have orders to cut down my list of employees, and must even part with my brother-in-law.” He invited him into the mill and showed him through the whole works. It was truly the best mill and plantation on the islands. Everything was on a large scale. It had the most land, the most water, the best management, and in many ways was the best property our hero had seen on the islands. He was in- vited to dinner, and met the manager’s nice family, and talked over his own prospects. The manager advised him to persevere and he would assuredly catch on somewhere. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 39 “The sugar industry is in its infancy,” said he, “and not one- third of the land on the islands adapted to its culture is under cultivation. It is bound to be the coming industry and main- tenance of the islands, and will take the place of whaling.” As our hero parted with him and his wife and family, all of them wished him god-speed and success, and invited him to come again ; and they would be pleased to learn of his locating himself. Sadly he walked back to Wailuku, in a very depressed state of mind, and could not understand why he should be debarred from working at his beloved vocation. Then he wrote fully to his wife, explaining at length the attempts he had made, and giving a terse description of the beautiful country, depicting the horrors of the sea trip and his disappointment in obtaining work. He spent several days in Wailuku, and tramped the valley and looked over the surrounding country. He became acquainted with two old missionaries, and from them learned very much of the manners and customs and history of the Hawaiians, as well of the history of the mission and their early trials. One of these came out as a teacher and devoted his life to inculcating the native youth, especially girls, in the rudiments of education, being aided by his amiable wife in teaching the details of home keep- ing, as sewing, washing, cooking, and all the little arts the knowl- edge whereof has made our mothers the true helpmeets they have been to their husbands. He had also introduced cotton and endeavored to cultivate it and manufacture cloth. The other missionary was a preacher, and conducted services in the stone cburch in the village, as well as maintaining a theologi- cal school from which native missionaries were graduated, several of whom were sent on missions to the South Seas, while others occupied pulpits in the islands, Judging from their erudition and kindly natures, it is certain that if these men had not felt called to give their lives to leading the heathen of the Sandwich Islands to the light, they would have risen to eminence amongst their fellowmen of the Eastern States. In their homes he was made welcome, and when they became acquainted with his abilities and character he was encouraged by them to persevere in his endeavors to learn sugar culture, and the requisite knowledge of the vernacular of the country. Towards the latter he was given very valuable assistance and directions as to how to learn the language the quickest. Having more than a week to wait for an answer to his letter, 40 The Master Planter; or he took every advantage of the time, in company with the aged preacher, to study the language; and during that time he learned very much of the hardships the early missionaries passed through. The preacher had been one of the fourth reinforcement of the Mission to the Hawaiian Islands, making with his wife nineteen in all, on board a vessel which was six months in coming around Cape Horn. After a passage which must have been one of misery from the exceedingly cramped quarters on board, but which was never referred to by him other than to speak of the beauties of such lands as they saw, and of the extreme kindness of the cap- tain and officers of the vessel, they landed at Honolulu, and were almost immediately sent off to the Marquesas Islands as prime missionaries. His wife described the horror of life there, which fortunately for them was limited to but eight months, as the English mission had undertaken that field. The people were of the lowest type of humanity, nude, rude, uncouth, cannibals, thieves, and were terri- ble. On their return to Hawaii they were stationed on Kauai for nine years, where he learned the language thoroughly and labored assiduously amongst the people with great success. On his health failing there he was sent to take charge of Lahainaluna © academy until 1849, when he was given a year’s rest, which he occupied in surveying on the mountainous region of Maui and aiding the natives in procuring titles to their allodial estates. In 1856 he accepted a call to the church at Wailuku, where our hero met him. He had supervision of several churches in the district, and journeyed from one to the other on an ambulat- ing old horse, on what was called ‘the missionary trot.” He was beloved by all who met him, and the vilest white man or the lowest native had a good word to say of him. His salary, or stipend, was exceedingly limited; but they were enabled to rear a family of nine children, all of whom received educations above the average. The old gentleman was of Kentucky stock, and fearless in denouncing any crookedness on the part of the king or those in authority, and yet withal so liberal in his views that no one could take offense. At the golden wedding of the old couple, which is spoken of in a later chapter, his oldest son, in an address to the parents, said: “By example much more than by precept, you have taught us to live for something higher than what the world counts suc- cess, and to seek the favor of God more than the praise of men. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 41 We thank you that you have taught us to be rather than to seem, to abhor all that is false and all that is sordid or base; and to cultivate charity, forbearance, humility, and other old-fashioned virtues, “And thus to bear without abuse The grand old name of gentleman, Defamed by every charlatan And soiled by all ignoble use.” Truly a character whose name should be enrolled on the scroll of fame, and one whom all men should hold up before them as an ideal to which they should aspire to shape their lives. The following week “Kansas” received an answer from his wife, which electrified him. Quick-witted woman; loving helpmate; she writes, “We have enough to live on for two years, even if you should not do a stroke of work during that time. Get a job ona plantation on any terms, and learn the language and the business. I can earn a living, if necessity compels it, where I am.” She always appreciated her husband and had taken him “for better or for worse,” but so far had found him “for better.” Now he determined the course he should pursue, and we will see in the following chapters whether she was wise or otherwise. A woman’s instinct is often better than a man’s deeply thought out scheme. The following morning our hero waited on the Wailuku manager, and tendered him his services, in any capacity, and at any figure he should offer. The latter flatly refused to employ him, saying he could not endure seeing a white man of his stand- ing at menial work, suitable only for coolies, and he had no other to give him. He was loth to leave Wailuku, where he could have the com- panionship and instruction of the preacher in whose company he delighted, and on whose every expression he hung as we have seen students in our colleges following the lecture of a great pro- fessor. He called on the preacher and told him of his resolution, and was iatvited to call at the parsonage whenever he might come to Wailukw. Bidding his new friend and his charming wife farewell, our hero tore hitnself away. With his roll of blankets on his back “Kansas” trudged across the Wailuku sand dunes and plains and ascended toward Makawao. Makawao is the name of a large 42 The Master Planter; or part of the western slope of East Maui, and has the reputa- tion of being one of the dreariest parts of the islands, being windswept by a zephyr which from old times was called “Ka ua ukiukiu o Makawao,” (the whistling rain of Makawao), Notwithstanding its bleakness, Makawao was noted for the richness of its soil, and its concomitant good crops, as well as the healthfulness of its inhabitants. It was a weary, hot walk, but our hero now had much to occupy his thoughts, and as he toiled through the red dust and heat he dwelt with delight on the instructive conversations he had enjoyed with the preacher. Resolutions and plans for the future were formulated, the suc- cess of which would depend upon circumstances. Towards noon he came to a plantation and sought out the owner, amongst the intricacies of the mill, to whom he applied for work of any kind. Many of his appearance had tramped the road before, and the planter had good cause to look on them suspiciously. After scanning his appearance and questioning him somewhat as to his wish to do land-work, for all loose white men were presumed to be runaway sailors, he was told that he could have work, “but,” said the planter, “no one works here who is not shipped, and if you are willing to ship your job is ready for you.” He would not take him unless he signed a contract to work a definite time at so much per month, and to do any kind of work he was set at, either in the day or night. “Kansas” now found that he had obtained what he had so long sought, viz: the oppor- tunity to learn the business of sugar planting, and all that implied, and determined to accept the terms, no matter what they were. The terms offered were “eight dollars per month and found, ten hours’ work per diem, to work by day or night as directed, twenty-four dollars in advance, and to engage for one year.” The contract was signed in duplicate and acknowledged, and “Kansas” was bound to work or be imprisoned. He was shown a room, about 10 by 12, in a cottage having two such rooms and a veranda in common. A bed, table, chair and wash-stand completed the furniture. The cottage faced towards West Maui, and from the veranda one of the most glorious pictures of ever-changing scenery presented itself. He soon freed himself from the superfluous real estate collected on the long tramp, and after his ablution and a little rest felt that he was going to like his new home. Naturally it appeared bar- ren and cheerless, but he knew he could soon surround himself Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 43 with the few necessary comforts, and felt grateful for his suc- cess. At dinner time he went in with the mechanics, and had a good, hearty meal, and was told that he was not expected to go to work until the morning, He passed the afternoon in walking about the premises, and taking note of the mill and surroundings. The planter told his wife that “he had shipped another white man, and that he would prove either a jewel or a devil.” She remarked that his “runaway sailors had not proven to be of much value as farm hands.” The next morning “Kansas” was set at piling firewood, and he put in a good day’s work. The climate was cool and bracing, and he felt that he could do as much work per diem there as in California or Kansas. The wood piling initiation lasted but a few days, when he was set to work with a Portuguese mason building stone walls, of which there were miles on this planta- tion. Stone walls had a two-fold purpose, viz: to clear the land of rock, which protruded in many places, or to make partitions between fields wherein cattle were kept. The Portuguese was a good workman, and the novice took his first lessons in masonry willingly. The most of the walls were built by building suitable rocks as a base and placing the upper stones on in such regular manner that they would stand for all time. Often near the gates mortar was used in building, to give the work a clean cut appear- ance, so our hero learned stone-wall building, with and without mortar, and this lesson was not lost on him. After three weeks of this out-door work he was set to washing the floors of the sugar-house. There was no other road, he had to do as others did, and bravely and good naturedly, in his bare feet, he plied the bucket and swab. It was a wretched mill, poorly planned, and its machinery was in keeping with it. Novice as he was, he could not help noticing that the bagasse, as the trash or pulp which came through the rollers was called, was not as dry as it should be, and a large percentage of the cane juice was thus lost. This bagasse was thrown out and spread on the ground surrounding the mill, and there by hand-turning dried in the sun for use as fuel, in addition to the large quantities of firewood hauled in from the forests. It was the endeavor to produce as much No. I sugar as possible, and this caused the molasses tank to fill rapidly. Molasses was of very little value on account of the high freight and heavy duty at San Francisco. 4+ The Master Planter; or The darkey sugar-boiler was a very careful man, and watched the cane as it came to the mill, and tried to separate that which was rat-eaten or borer-punctured, as those stalks were sour and affected the whole mass with which they blended. Still they had to go through, and it required a much larger weight of lime to be used to correct the acidity ; and also, as a consequence, a cor- respondingly less proportion of No. 1 sugar could be obtained. He strained all the juice which came through the rollers, and anything which went through his screen rose to the surface of the first clarifier, where heat was applied. He seemed to be quite secretive in regard to the quantity of lime to be applied, and how he arrived at the proper weight to be used. He made good sugar, if it was a poor mill, and that satisfied his employer. He watched the men working at the train, as the row of open kettles was called, and kept them continually sweeping the surface with long paddles. He also pursued the firemen to keep up a regular flame, a very difficult matter where they had to feed the furnace continually with dried bagasse. Paddling, bailing, and skimming seemed very hot work, as the poorly-ventilated mill appeared to be filled with steam from the boiling juice. The mill-men were all natives, who seemed willing to turn their hands to anything. They chaffed the man from Kansas and told him he could not stand their work. They wore only pants made of denims, and the perspiration poured down their breasts and backs. He “reckoned he could do any- thing that a kanaka could do,” and this remark being quoted to his employer, he found himself set at “sugar boiling,” as the boys called it in derision. The sugar-boiler was the best paid man on the plantation, but skimmers of boiling pots received but seven or eight dollars per month. After a few days he found it very agreeable work and far from being unhealthy. How his wife cried as she read his weekly letter wherein he graphically described his life on the plantation. He made no complaints of the hardships he endured, on the contrary, described every thing in a humorous vein; but she could read between the lines, and in imagination followed him as he stood in the cloud of steam skimming the train, or, barefooted, washing the gummy floors. He had described the process of drying sugar, and she could see him bare-footed and bare-armed tramping in the coolers where the boiled juice had crystallized, digging it up and filling it into tubs, which by the help of a native were carried to a cen- Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 45 trifugal and dumped in. This machine was about the size of a large wash-tub, and had wire-gauze sides and turned on a spindle at the rate of 1600 to 2000 revolutions per minute. The centrifugals were enclosed in an iron frame to prevent accident in event of explosion. Still accidents happened some- times, from the carelessness of the men or from the slipperiness of the floors, caused by the dripping of the syrup. Should a man become over-balanced and fall into the centrifugal while it was in motion, it would be almost certain death. Such an accident happened to a poor kanaka who worked in company with our hero. Our man felt that death had come very near to him that time, and imagined the consequences to his wife and little ones should he have been the victim of such a catastrophe. When his wife read of the accident she wrote him that he was her all, and although she had the greatest confidence in him and his careful- ness, she urged him for her sake to be careful. The local papers made a great ado about the acccident, one editor insinuating that the planter was not wholly guiltless of manslaughter in allowing the floors to become so sloppy. It had a good eirect,/ mi @hat thereafter the floors were kept in somewhat better condition. The works were closed for the day and the floors and mill cleaned up. CHAR TERT SOCIABILITY ON THE PLANTATION AND AT CHURCH—“AND HE PROVES TO BE A JEWEL” —‘“KANSAS” MAKING HEADWAY. HE planter’s wife, a most estimable lady, was accustomed to visiting the makahiki houses, as the quarters was called, to look after the comfort of the men and women. During our hero’s first week she called on him, and told him that ser- vices were held in the church in Makawao, and he was welcome to the use of a horse to go there if he chose. He took her at her word, and the following Sunday morning found him on the road to church. It was an exceedingly interesting service to him, although the sermon was more or less prosaic. Although all were strangers to him, they had the same old hymns to which he had been accustomed in his New England home, and he gladly joined in the praise service. He had a rich baritone voice; and the lady who played the little reed organ seemed to throw her whole soul into it. The small congregation appeared to pay the strictest attention to the sermon, and was very devout. After the service there seemed to he a great deal of handshaking and pleasant chit-chat amongst the neighbors, but our hero was unnoticed. Not en- tirely unnoticed, however, as several asked who he was; one planter, who was a great lover ot music, remarked that he had a very fine voice. His employer’s wife told that “it was another deserting whaler whom her husband had shipped.” When “Kansas” was untying his horse the preacher’s daughter came up and offered her hand, saying, “You appear to be a stranger in our community, but we are very glad to see you.”” He offered to assist her to her horse, and she accepted the courtesy. He opened the gate for her, and as she passed out touched his hat to her, but she wheeled her horse about and remarked, “We live a mile or so above here, and have an abundance of figs, if you would like some.”” He mounted his horse and was soon be- side her. Some of the iadies remarked, “That is just like Mary, Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 47 she speaks to every one.” However, he had a pleasant chat with an intelligent lady, which he never forgot. He told her that he was a contracted laborer on plantation. She said, “We are glad that you have come to live in our neighborhood,” and hoped he would come regularly to church. He promised her that he would do so, as it made a pleasant break in the week, re- marking that he considered the keeping of the Sabbath Day holy (or wholly) was one of the great reasons why the Anglo-Saxon race had taken such a lead in the world’s civilization. Arrived at the parsonage he was told that he was welcome to all the figs he wished—and they were truly delicious. Those large purple figs, how he revelled in them; they certainly are the most delicious of any on the islands. He was invited in to lunch, and met the aged preacher and his amiable wife, and spent an hour in conversation that to him was most instructive. The old gentle- man had lived long on the islands, and he and his son and daughter had felt it their duty to go home and take part in the Sanitary Commission in the war. In his old age the parson had thought it advisable to marry again, and in the East had found a suitable mate to share his declining years. As fate would have it, a second family, of two, sprung up to add to their pleasures. However, we are not giving the history of each of the delightful people he met. On his way down the long, tedious road he communed with himself, recailing the kindness of the mission family at Lahaina, and that of the two at Wailuku, and of the close friendship which had sprung up between himself and the preacher at the latter place; all their hearty invitations to him to come again when pass- ing. They had made no class distinction of him in their asso- ciation. He felt that the thought he was harboring, that the rich made an incisive distinction between themselves and the poor laboring class, was erroneous. Was not the distinction purely mythical on his part? Was it not engendered from over- hearing on the wharves in San Francisco and in Honolulu such remarks? He feared he himself was the originator of such a fancied distinction. He knew of the extreme hospitability of the planters between themselves, as he had noted the frequent arrivals and departures of travellers at the plantation, and con- cluded that they were somewhat right in being reserved in taking to their firesides people of whose antecedents they knew nothing. 48 The Master Planter; or For his part he would keep on in the even tenor of his way and mind his own business. That afternoon the planter’s wife visited the quarters, and brought some religious papers for his use. She remarked, “I see you are accustomed to going to church; I could tell by your familiarity with the hymns.” “Yes,’”’ he answered, “it makes the day pass quicker when one goes to hear a sermon, and besides the incentive to spruce up keeps a man from getting lazy.” She hoped he would go regu- larly, and try to induce the mechanics to come. However, she offered him the use of the library at the house, provided he did not soil the books. Her kindness was so much greater than he expected that he felt that he was misjudging the entire com- munity. He thanked her for the use of the books, and assured her he would be very careful of them. Here indeed was a treat. What cared he for the men who looked down upon him on account of his poverty, and being a “shipped man,” when he could have the company of such men as Tyndall, Lyell, Huxley, Darwin, Hugh Miller, and a host of other scientific writers, as well as of atithors of works of fiction too numerous to mention? It put new life into him to look forward to the pleasant nights he would have in such company. The work was hard and the hours long, but neither as hard or long as he had been accustomed to in Kansas and California. The planter had a very valuable library, selected with good judgment by some one who knew what was necessary to keep in the country. Of works on the steam engine, chemistry, botany, political economy, history, geography, etc., etc., there was a plethora, besides a number of periodicals. This privilege of using the library was a gift which for once was appreciated to its fullest extent. It was like a shower of rain on a thirsty soil. Never in his life before could he comprehend so thoroughly what he found in books. Day by day he worked away at the mill, doing all kinds of work, from firing up, cleaning boiler tubes, cleaning the en- gine, skimming, drying sugar, feeding the mill or turning trash in the mill grounds in company with native men and women. Sometimes he would be sent with the teams into the woods towards the rainy side of the island, for firewood, during which trips he learned much of the nature of the Hawaiian forests and of that part of the island. He saw the effect of the pasturing of cattle amongst the large trees. They destroyed the dense Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 49 tropical under-growth which preserved the moisture, and in a few years large trees died. It could be but a matter of a few years when the windward slopes of Haleakala would be denuded, and this barrenness would affect the rainfall most injuriously to the balance of the islands. Sometimes the gang of teamsters would be placed under his charge, and he could not but notice with what reluctancy they obeyed his orders. He was of the same contracted class as themselves, even if he was a white man. Still he got the work out of them, and with a little tact succeeded in getting back early in the day with satisfactory loads. Little by little his employer came to lean on him for service of many kinds, and he was frequently on horse-back in all parts of the estate, either with a gang of men or carrying orders for changes to the different overseers. This gave him a great in- sight into cane at different stages of growth, and into the extent of the estate. He could see the absolute waste in the attempts to cultivate cane on parts which had proven valueless, and also he could discern the necessity for correctives and fertilizers to certain soils. In so broad an estate there must naturally be a variety of soils. To treat all alike, therefore, would be wasteful and reprehensible. Still this was exactly what was going on. Fortunate indeed was the planter, that prices of sugar ruled so high and wages were so low. Nature had done so much in sup- plying a rich soil, brilliant sunlight, and wind, and ample rain, if man only had the requisite knowledge to take advantage of those blessings. ‘Kansas’ noted the errors made or permitted, and also made note of what he would have done if he was the owner. Of course it would be out of place for him to offer sug- gestions, but at times he did so when opportunity favored it, or when his opinion was asked. His employer told, at the table, that he had said “that ‘Kansas’ would either prove to be a jewel or a devil, and he proves to be a jewel!” His wife remarked that “Kansas” was a great reader. Her husband said, “I do not care how much he reads, as long as he does my work well, and I must say he is the only white trash I have ever met who does well and quickly everything that is entrusted to his care. I sent him with the teams over into the forest for wood and he was back here in half a day, whereas any luna I ever sent before always managed to keep the boys and cattle away until night. He can build a stone wall as good as 50 The Master Planter, Portuguese Joe. Bob White says he knows as much of the prin- ciples of the steam engine as he does, and I guess he is right about that, although Bob is pretty handy when anything is broken down. I have an idea that the fellow could boil sugar. Old John has to go to Lahaina on the jury next week, and | have a notion to give ‘Kansas’ a show to see what he can do in that line.” CHAPTER: X11] SOME INTERESTING DETAILS OF PLANTATION WORK—THE EN- TRANCING HALEAKALA TRIP AND WHAT IT REVEALS. HE following week, when John was off to Lahaina, our hero was set at sugar boiling, although under the eye of the planter, who was himself a master hand. He got along famously, in fact he was surprised that there was so little in it. As the juice came in from the rollers he skimmed or rather strained it, for naturally much fungus which grows on all cane, came over as well as detritus of other descriptions. Judging by the taste and color of the juice, he could tell if acid prevailed in injurious percentage. In such case lime was applied, but great care was used in this respect, as the chemical action of the lime on the saccharine matter prevented crystallization to some extent, and also changed the nature of the product. When heat was applied in the container in which the juice was received it caused all extraneous matter to rise to the surface, from whence it was skimmed, and the heated juice was again strained before going into the first of the train of boiling pots. Here it was boiled and evaporated to a certain consistency, deter- mined by the saccharometer, and finally its proof density was determined by hand-testing. It was then conveyed to large tanks, which were probabiy 15 inches deep, and presented a large surface to the atmosphere, where it was allowed to crystallize, and from whence it was carried to the centrifugals. Patience, watchfulness, and prompt action to arrest the graining at the proper stage—that was all, excepting the prime necessity of keeping all the kettles scrupulously clean and free from fer- mentation. For two days the planter fumed and puffed about the mill, which was as much as he could endure, and the third day he was off to the port of Kahului, where his vessels lay at anchor. He said, “Now ‘Kansas’, be careful and do not burn that sugar, a strike is worth more than your year’s wages!” and he departed leaving our hero in charge of the mill and all the men therein. 52 The Master Planter; or There was no sugar burned there, and if the planter had been a little more observing he would have noticed that the output was a little larger for the next three days. He had taken note of old John’s watching for rat-eaten or borer-punctured cane, or that which had not reached its proper stage of ripeness, and set such aside to be either destroyed or ground together. He soon learned from the color of the juice, as well as the taste, the requisite weight of lime to use as a corrective to the acidity. By the saccharometer he discerned the difference in the density of the juices from different fields, and formed an opinion of the causes of the difference. He was too good a farmer not to know that sugar is made in the fields, and not by any chemical concoction in the mill. The essentiality of preserving the crop at the mill and curtailing all waste there was also very apparent. Where proper cultivation was used, and the cane kept clean, that is, stripped regularly of the older leaves within which the borer lays its eggs, and where the puncturing is done by it, the yield of juice was not only greater but its percentage of saccharine matter was much higher. Our hero reveled in the delights of every part of sugar culti- vation—the plowing, manuring, cultivating, stripping, and har- vesting the crop. ‘The different stages of labor he went through, instead of being laborious, irksome and unpleasant were done by him with a cheerfulness and earnestness and watchfulness which could produce none other than an appreciation by his employer, and which would create a lasting impression on his part. The bracing climate of Makawao, and his care of his person, combined to ensure him good health, and he grew robust and tough in all his muscles. J[*requent long and hard rides made him a good horseman, and every opportunity was taken by him to learn the geography of the island as far into the Koolau country as the district of Hana. Situated at such an elevation as he was, he had a continual view of West Maui and the beauti- ful villages along that range of mountains, together with their whitewashed mills and churches. It truly was one of the most beautiful landscapes to be found in any part of the world, with its variegated colors, the sea and the land, the light and shade, and the view into the great valleys. “Kansas” was not always confined to the plantation, and on more than one occasion had been detailed to travel with a party to Ulupalakua, a fine plantation owned by Capt. Makee, situated Life in the Cane Fields of Hawai. 53 on the other shoulder of the great mountain. This was at an elevation from 1800 to 2500 feet above sea level, and where they were entirely dependent on the rainfall for their crop and for living purposes. The owner was truly one of nature’s noblemen, and delighted in entertaining his neighbors or strangers from all parts of the world. He was very broad in his views and liberal to a degree. He was always pleased to have an opportunity to converse with men from whom he might possibly learn some- thing, and was no respecter of men’s clothing. The first time “Kansas” was there the Captain noticed with what assiduity he cared for the horses, apparently being as solici- tous for their welfare as for himself. He, although anxious that the stock should have water, saw that they did not get much until they were cool enough from their journey, that it would not in- jure them. Then he took care that they had plenty of rich cane tops, and fed them himself. These little matters attracted the Captain’s attention, and he took the first opportunity to get into conversation with our hero. Like all the old sea-dogs, he was addicted to an early cup of coffee, and seeking out ‘Kansas’ he invited him to partake of coffee and johnny-cake with him. “Kansas” had climbed to Prospect Hill, a knoll planted to eucalyptus by the owner’s directions, and from where a good view of Ulupalakua plantation and the vicinity was to be obtained. He was asked as to his opinion of the site for a plantation, and of the soil. The Captain was surprised to note the wealth of knowledge that this hostler had in regard to agricultural matters in general, and of the notice he had taken of the immediate sur- roundings. During the three days the party remained there the Captain, without any apparent neglect of his guests, sought as much as possible of ’Kansas’s” company. At other times, when he visited there, he was made as welcome as if he was one of the nabobs of the islands: and when Capt. Makee visited Makawao, he asked for “Kansas” and showed him every courtesy, to the astonish- ment of both his empioyer and the mechanics of the place. We will see in later chapters how this acquaintance ripened into friendship, and to the Captain’s financial benefit. “Kansas” was frequently at Wailuku and Waihee, and renewed his acquaint- ance with those whom he had learned to appreciate in those villages. 54 The Master Planter; or At one time he was sent with a party to Haleakala, the huge mountain, 10,000 feet high, at the base of which his plantation was situated. The party consisted of a U. S. Geological Com- missioner, two islatiders and the guide, a missionary’s son, who lived well up the mountain and was familiar with the intricacies of the numerous trails which crossed and recrossed each other in a thousand directions. They started early in the day and at even- ing were at the summit. From this point the view is grand, all the islands of the group being in sight, the overhanging cloud effect entrancing the tourist and chaining him to the spot. The horses were quickly tethered, and a large lot of firewood collected from the scrubby growth of brittle shrubs which covers the surrounding country. After the sunlight had diminished the cold was intense, and the party bivouacked in a cave at a little distance below the summit. Hav- ing disposed of supper, the party grouped themselves about the fire at the entrance to the cave, when “‘volcanoes and their causes” were discussed. The Commissioner had traveled over Yucatan, Mexico and the southwestern States and Territories of the Union; had visited and followed the wonderful Colorado river from its source to its mouth in the Gulf of California, and had formed his theories of subterranean forces. He had visited Kilauea, Mauna Loa, Hualalai and Mauna Kea on the island of Hawaii, and remarked on the peculiar absence of many of the volcanic products found in other parts of the world. He reasoned on the difference between aa and pahochoe, forma- tions in the flows on Hawaii. Spoke of the rapidity with which these corroded, disintegrated and dissolved, and of their forming soil of the finest character in so short a period. Our hero was entranced with the conversation, and although it was his duty to “fire up” and care for the trembling horses, he was loth to leave the circle of discerning educated gentlemen long enough to properly attend to these. The Commissioner noted with what interest he listened to the conversation, and, as the fleas drove sleep from the eyes of the weary party, he continued the conversation on through the night. It was “a feast of reason and flow of soul” which needed no artificial stimulant to sustain. At dawn they were on top of the mountain watching for the coming of the glorious orb of day. This is one of the grandest sights it is in the power of man to obtain. The face of the earth Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 55 was buried in cloud, excepting the pinnacle upon which the party stood. Presently the bright rays of the rising sun pierced the eastern horizon sufficiently to lighten up the whole upper surface of the downy strata which covered mother earth, and then the brilliant disc seemed to burst from the shroud which enfolded it, and Sol, in all his glory, began his diurnal journey. Rising majes- tically, he appeared to draw up with him a large part of the downy strata he had cleft, which presently appeared to fall back to its place, as a saucer might adhere to a cup. The upper sur- faces of the clouds are by no means level, in fact present the appearance of an undulating country covered with snow. A slight breeze occurring cleared away the portion of clouds which covered the immense crater of Haleakala, and exposed to view what the Commissioner denominated the largest caldera known. He used this term in contradistinction to volcano, in that a caldera may be described as a pit in which numerous vol- canic cones have been formed. The Commissioner purposed visiting the floor of the caldera, from which journey some of the party excused themselves, as the ascent therefrom would be more of a task than their weak lungs could stand. The atmosphere. at this elevation, is exceed- ingly rare, and some complained of nausea. It was arranged that our hero should accompany the Commis- sioner and another member of the party, the guide offering to take charge of the horses. The balance of the party proposed secur- ing some specimens of the silver sword (argyroxiphium Sand- qwicense), which is found only at this elevation. Flocks of wild goats also attracted their attention, and promised some good shooting. The party began the descent into the crater, and went with such Titan strides down the black scoriz of which the sides were com- posed, that they were soon on the floor. Many of what appeared to be sand-dunes from the top of the mountain were found to be craters, some of which were 500 feet in height. They wan- dered around some, and the feasibility of riding into the crater was discovered and the Commissioner determined to send for the horses and ride out on the Koolau side. Our hero proffered to go and bring the party, and leaving one canteen of water he commenced the ascent. He found that what took but a few minutes to descend required much longer time to ascend. The rarity of the atmosphere, which made exertion 56 The Master Planter; or difficult, the great heat of the sun, from which there was no shelter, and the ever-moving scoriz, made his task a hard one. However, Yankee grit “will get there,” as the boys say, and he was soon on the summit. The party refused to go farther with the Commissioner, and taking the guide with them left our hero, with the water, provisions, and three horses. Riding round to the entrance of the opening, and leading the other horses and baggage, he finally reached the party on the floor. They now started for the windward side of the island, through the crater, and having reached the Kaupo gap at an elevation of 7600 feet, were forced to camp. The lack of water for the horses was the only drawback. There is a hole where water may be found at most seasons, but they were unable to discover it. Bright and early in the following morning they began the descent, and after riding through a most precipitous country arrived at the sea. Turning easterly they arrived at Hana long after night- fall, the whole party badly used up. The Commissioner kept up the interest in the ride by calling attention to the peculiar formation of the innumerable precipi- tous gulches which they crossed, the great tree-ferns with their weird and wonderful fronds. The sides of these gulches or ravines were densely covered with vegetation, over which climbed the ieie, wild nasturiiums, and convolvulus vines. Many moun- tain-apple trees were seen, peculiar in that their magenta blos- soms grew immediately from the trunk or large limbs rather than from the ends of branches. The smali valleys in those ravines all appeared to have more or less signs of cultivation or of having been cultivated. Several native houses were passed, the inhabi- tants invariably inviting the travellers to rest and eat. At one house, newer than the others, they took lunch, the native prepar- ing chicken in a marvelously short time. Here the gentlemen submitted themselves to the operation of Jomilomi, which they admitted was very restful. It is merely a kneading of the mus- cles by hands which are accustomed to the operation. At Hana the gentleman with the Commissioner decided that he could not undertake a return journey, and they agreed to return in a boat to Haiku. They directed “Kansas” to lead the horses back to Makawao, and he started away by the lower road through the Koolau country, arriving at Makawao after a two days’ jour- ney of danger and difficulty. Crossing many of the streams was very risky at times, as those streams were subject to sudden rises Life in the Cane Fields of Hawai. 57 of water, and there were no bridges. He felt thankful for a safe return, and vet amply repaid for all his care and anxiety by the store of knowledge he had acquired, not only from the Commissioner and his companion, but from the knowledge of that well watered country, the sources of whose streams he had wit- nessed. He had also made the acquaintance of the Commissioner, which was not only renewed in a few days, but which in after years in Washington proved mutually agreeable. CHAP DE RXV PHASES OF PLANTATION LIFE—NATIVE LANGUAGE AND LORE— NATIVE DIVISIONS OF LAND—DYESTUFFS USED BY THE) HAWAIIANS. UR man was sent, the boiling season being over for a time, into the fields with a gang of men to clear away the fields and prepare the rattoon or volunteer crop. The fields were run over with fire and all the superfluous leaves and weeds destroyed and the cane given a chance to again sprout. As this plantation was not under irrigation, and the cane was planted at different eleva- tions, some of it was ripe whilst other parts were just being planted. With a gang he undertook stripping, which is one of the hardest jobs on the plantation, not only on account of the ex- treme heat in the center of a field, but from the sharp serrated leaves of the cane whose edges cut like a saw and knife com- bined, when by accident the Teaves are not properly grasped, or a jerk of the arm throws the back of the hand against a project- ing leaf. He worked as faithfully at this stripping as at any other work he had been set at, and soon found that by attacking a stalk systematically and grasping the leaves firmly from the base upward, they all came away freely. He saw the utility of the work, for the eggs of the borer could be seen in many a leaf stalk ready to be hatched and get in its deadly work on the cane. Also, the cane appeared to thrive better when the effete leaves were removed and the wind had an oppor- tunity to clear away the hairlike fungus which covered the stalk at the base of the leaves. The natives jeered him, and challenged him to race across the field. He found that he could not compete with some of the older hands, who were adepts at the work, and with one sweep could clean a stalk. Still he persevered and soon became quite quick at the work. The leaves, being stripped, were thrown in between the rows, and after the cane was cut fire was allowed to run over the field, cleaning it of all trash and vermin. In this our agriculturist felt that a great waste was committed, Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 59 for although the ashes was a very good complement to the soil and the fire a grand vermin exterminator, he contended that it would pay well to carry all to a small valley and there make a great pile of compost against planting time. It was noticeable the rankness with which the cane grew in certain valleys where the rains were slow in percolating the soil, also on some slopes where the actinic rays of the sun could operate to best advantage. He frequently studied out what would be the difference in the total crop of this plantation if water could be obtained to put it all under irrigation. He had made frequent Sunday excursions into the woods, or wet country, on the wind- ward side of the island, and had crossed the innumerable valleys, both above and below, which lay between the plantation and the Hana district, and had noticed the loss of water in those ravines by percolation. He came to the conclusion that by tapping those streams at a good elevation water could be brought round to the leeward in supply only limited by the aqueduct, and probably sufficient to irrigate ten times the land under cultivation, and make the aggregate product four times what it was. He kept his counsel against the future, but his Yankee brain was at work. He had now worked ten months on the plantation, and felt competent to fill any position. He had very little company on the ranch among the employees, as the hands cared very little for the work or improvements in it. Still, some of them passed their evenings at his cottage, and made use of his numerous papers and magazines. Whenever any fancied improvement could be made he had made note of it in a memorandum book carried for that purpose, a custom which he had pursued for many years. He believed in nailing a passing thought, and in enlarging upon it when writing up his daily journal. When he heard a new word amongst the native hands he invariably looked it up in his dic- tionary, and this course improved his knowledge of the vernacu- lar in a remarkable degree, and in after years proved of great value to him. The native language was the medium of conversation between the Chinese and other laborers, and a perfect knowledge of it was necessary. He had systematically and diligently studied it from the time he first met the preacher at Wailuku. He had procured a phrase book, a grammar, and a Hawaiian-English English- Hawaiian dictionary, and being acquainted with the Spanish and French languages he easily acquired the proper pronunciation. 60 The Master Planter; or Still he always felt that he had learned more from the New Testa- ment, which was printed in parallel columns of Hawaiian and English. It had been translated from the Greek direct, with which he was also familiar, by a master hand, and by the time he had read it through he was spoken of by the natives as one who spoke their language as fluently as they did. He often surprised the younger generation by using words with which they were not familiar. He learned many of the meles, or chants, from the elder Hawaiians, who had received them from those whose duty it was to learn and pass down the genealogies and history of chiefs by song and saga. He was surprised at the extent of the vocabularies of some of even the common laborers who went with him to the woods. They could tell the name of every tree, plant or weed that grew there. They could enumerate hundreds of kinds of fishes, some of which had different names at different ages. When it became bruited abroad that “Kansas” was a Ha- waiian scholar, his company was sought by some of the chiefs and kahunas, or doctor priests. At the house of a chief named Hikiau, who had been a warrior and favorite of Kamehameha, he frequently met some of the old-time people who freely discussed with him the arts and sciences of the ancient Hawaiians. They described their weapons of war, and from what woods made, and where those woods were ob- tained. Also the woods best adapted to the manufacture of culinary vessels and for the few agricultural implements re- quired. Their knowledge of the medicinal properties of certain herbs, and of the vegetable poisons, was quite extensive, of which he invariably made note. He was much surprised to note their knowledge of dyes and pigments used in dying their cloth and in painting their canoes, etc. To illustrate their knowledge of paints, his notes show that to make oil they expressed the kernels of the kukui nut by means of a lever. The residue was burned and the dense smoke arising therefrom was caught in an inverted calabash, from which came their fine lamp-black. In tatooing they used the green juice of the covering of the kukui, mixed with the pulverized carbonized shell of the same. This made an indelible black. For a yellow dye the turmeric root was used. Certain flowers were used to obtain the bright pinks and reds, although by no means lasting. Sepia from the squid was also used as a Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 61 dye. To dye black they frequently steeped the kapa* (made from the wauke) in taro patches, the oxide of iron therein contained giving them a permanent color. These discussions with the natives were exceedingly inter- esting, and he seldom passed a Sunday afternoon without learning something of the wisdom of the natives. Their divisions of land were so peculiar that he made diligent study into the origin of title to real property, and even took the trouble to visit, in company with one acquainted, the crater of Haleakala to see what was the matrix from which the boundary lines of all the divisions of East Maui were ob- tained. It was a large flat stone, called Pohakupalahalaha, the cracks, natural or artificial, radiating from the center of which, on being extended, were held to be boundary lines for the different ahupuaas, as the divisions were called. It was a remarkably simple division, and as it had supernatural au- thority for its embellishment, was respected by all. Thus germinating at a single point in the center of the island, and widening out at the sea, there was given to each chief and his tribe a land which would supply all the simple necessaries of life. At the seafront he had his fishing rights; a little above land suitable for cultivating taro and sweet potatoes; then the woods for his yams, canoes and fuel; farther up his indis- pensible ti land; then his hardwood land for weapons and domestic and agricultural implements; then his grass land for thatching his house; and finally the land of the fragrant sandal- wood for barter. In the bordering ravines grew the bamboc, so useful for house building and for fishing purposes, as well as the wauke and olona,t from which he made his cloth, twine and nets. The ancient tenure of real property was very insecure and depended largely on the whim of the chiefs who, with their prone rode rough-shod over the common people. “Hemo ’ (you are out) if said by a chief would throw a man and ae family onto the world from lands they had occupied for generations. The feudal system prevailed in all its severity * Kapa, a cloth (sometimes called tapa) made generally, from the inner bark of the wauke, a species of the mulberry. + Olona, a shrub, the bark of which when dressed resembles bleached hemp or flax, and is made into small cords. Olona is also the name of the cord itself. The name is also given to animal tendons or ligaments. 62 The Master Planter. and absoluteness. Of course all this was now changed since the Great Mahele, or division of lands under Kamehameha Ill. He called on all chiefs and commoners to bring in their proofs of ownership or of residence and cultivation, and give them up to him; he then issued Royal Patents to such as made satisfactory proofs of title by prescription, they paying into the treasury a commutation and the cost of surveying. Clear PER Vv. MORE HAWATIAN LORE: LAND TENURE—TABU SYSTEM—PRIMITIVE TOOLS AND PATIENT LABOR—WHERE FELL THE CHIVALRY OF HAWAITI. HE titles given at the Great Division of lands were allodial, that is, free from military burden and other service to an overlord or chief, excepting such taxes as the regular legislature might impose, the government, however, re- serving any minerals which might be discovered. To the chiefs were granted such ahupuaas or large divisions as they had inherited or possessed, excepting such lands as had or would be awarded to the common people within the peripheries thereof. Many chiefs induced their people to refrain from applying for lands, promising to allow them to live on them for ever. At the same time a law was passed that in event of the grantee and his heirs dying out, the small lands should not escheat to the government but to the owner of the ahupuaa in which they were situated. Islands were divided into districts, mokus, ahupuaas, ilis, kalanas, kuleanas and leles, and in Honolulu into house lots. Fishing rights were another peculiar feature of the ancient government, and many such remain to this day. A chief would claim a certain fish amongst all which frequented the waters opposite his land, and when the fisherman brought in his catch the konohiki, or agent of the chief, would insist on that one kind of fish as his perquisite. Otherwise the sea was open to all. Again the king took all the flotsam and jetsam which came to the coasts of any part, and whale bone or teeth was his especial perquisite. The tabu system was very onerous and burdensome on the people. A particular bird would be ordered to be tabued to the king, or a chief, and woe betide the bird-catcher who did not make returns of all such as was caught by the bird-lime 64 The Master Planter; or smeared on the trees by him. Women were not permitted to eat many things that it was proper for men—as pork, fish of some kinds, bananas, cocoanuts, etc. Of course, they did do so, but had to do it surreptitiously, and many were put to death when informed on by enemies. The men did most of the work of cultivating and prepar- ing the food, and in this respect differed from the Indians of North America. In fact, women, amongst the Hawaiians, stood on a higher plane than among other races. The origin of a distinction between chiefs and commoners was told to “Kansas” in this way, viz.: that originally all men were chiefs and some fell from their high estate and became vagabonds and servants or slaves amongst strangers, and mul- tiplied. This is the opposite of the white man’s theory, viz.: that all were commoners, but by physical superiority some succeeded in getting their fellows down or to cause them- selves to be looked up to. The konohiki of the chief would ruthlessly take the poor man’s pig or fowls without any thought of remuneration, and his taro would be sequestered whenever it pleased the chief or his satellites to take it. A man could never know what was his own, whether it was his wife or daughter, animal or product of his labor. Notwithstanding all the hardship which the people endured and the absolutism under which they lived, they throve and multiplied and probably would have kept on doing so but for the advent of the white man and the introduction by him of disease, rum, a superficial demand for luxuries, and the breaking up of their homes. When first the white man came he found the natives a hospi- table, friendly race, willing to be led to the right and respecting the superior wisdom of the stranger. They are still a hospitable, kindly people, who are in no ways malicious or vindictive. One of the phases of life amongst the ancient Hawaiians was their indefatigable perseverance and application in work- ing up tools, weapons, and culinary vessels from the hardest of woods with the simple instruments of stone which they had. A certain quality of flint was found on the higher eleva- tions on the mountains of Hawaii and Maui, which they deftly split and tied to the fork of a small branch of a tree and used as an adze. This was their main tool, and with it was- fashioned the remarkably symmetrical calabashes and canoes so largely used by them. In cutting down the im- Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 65 mense trees from which their canoes were made, the labor, with such instruments, was enormous. Stone axes and poi- pestles were, by these flint adzes, fashioned from hard vol- canic stones, as well as maika* stones, which they used in a favorite game, When an enemy conquered a part of an island and felt they could not hold it, they ruthlessly destroyed any fruit trees, as the cocoanut or breadfruit. This was an enormous task, but they would sit around the bole of the tree, as many as could get near it, and the incessant tunking at it with their blunt instruments would bring the monarch to the ground. As sample of rude barbarism this is only excelled by the modern bombarding of cities and the destruction of the homes of non- combatants of our day. The canoes and calabashes, having been shaped by the rude tool, were finished by hand. Pumice stone from the volcano was used to rub down the inequalities left by the tool, and shark skin, and breadfruit leaves were used for the final polish. These calabashes were so symmetrically made, that although round bottomed they could be filled with water without tilting. Better work cannot be done on a lathe by an experienced turner. Printing by moveable blocks was well understood by old Ha- waiians. That is, innumerable blocks with exceedingly beau- tiful designs, were kept by experts by which they applied rare patterns to the quilts and cloaks or capes of the chiefs. Our hero has seen hundreds of these printing blocks, and learned from the natives the pigments used by them in making the colored inks which they applied in making the beautiful pat- terns on those garments. Some were oil colors and others water-colors, both of which were prepared by rubbing up the pigment between smooth stones, and then, mixing with either water or oil, they were applied in the same manner as we have seen wallpaper manufacturers apply their designs by hand. A native friend of “Kansas” had a large collection of these beautiful designs, which evidently had been made not only by natural artists but by an infinitude of labor from bamboo or hard woods. * Maika, was a name given by ancient Hawaiians to a round, smooth stone, and to the game in which it was played. The stone was also called ulu or olohu. The game required much muscular exertion, and the result was wagered upon. 66 The Master Planter; or Those skilled in carving or sculpture were much respected by the masses, and had the appellation “kahuna kalaiwaa,” or one skilled in canoe making or other such work, and were supposed to have occult powers. Our hero asked such a one if he made gods. He replied that formerly he did so but now he could not do it. On being asked if there was no more demand for such, he answered that some people still came to him, men who were kahunas and lived on the superstitions of the credulous. He said “that all the gods of the ancient times, whether made of wood or feathers, or of stone, were ugly and fierce- looking gods, and their power lay in the teachings of the priests, who said they were angry or would be if any taboos were broken or if they were opposed by any one. Our God, said he, cannot be angry, he is a God of love. It is therefore impossible to make a god which will be angry, as there is no such thing. God made us all and he loves us the same as we love and admire anything that we make with much labor, and it would be only laughable to try to impersonate a being so pleasant and who dwelt in the hearts of all his creatures.” “Kansas” was surprised to hear such expressions from a kanaka, probably a grandson of a veritable pagan, but as he came nearer in thought to the people he found that the teachings of the missionaries had taken a deeper hold on them than many gave credit for. Having been brought up a Puritan, he had been taught to fear God, and the threat of hell had been constantly held up before him, and lo! and behold, away out in the Pacific he was learning a broader religion. To revert to canoe making, which was the largest industry among the ancients: When it was determined to make a canoe a skilled man was brought into the woods to select a tree. Naturally he used a certain amount of incantation to impress upon the people his supernatural powers, but in reality he was shrewd in many ways. He would select a tree suitable, first in being capable of being removed when the work was complete. Secondly, one which was sound and of the proper length in the main trunk; and of several would take the one which was the easiest to work at. In the tropical forests all large trees are covered with para- sitical climbers, the cutting away of which with the rude in- truments they had was almost as much labor as to fell the mammoth. This done, while as many as could get near the Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 67 base hewed at it with their stone axes, others were above working on the immense limbs. They made it fall in the proper direction by hauling on it with ropes made of the ieie vine —and then the real work began. Only on some kinds of wood was fire used to gouge out the interior; the main work was done with the flint adzes both within and without. When finished and painted and to cele- brate the great work, a feast followed, as we celebrate a birth- day. If we can imagine the immense fleet of canoes which Kala- niopuu brought from Hawaii in his attempted conquering of Maui, and which was said to be so enormous that the four- mile beach between Makena and Kalepolepo was not long enough for each canoe to put its prow on shore, and the men had to climb over the canoes which could touch, we can have some idea of the huge canoe-building enterprise which pre- ceded the formation of this armada. Singularly, this armada was even more disastrous to its promoters than the fate which met the Spaniard in his attempt to subjugate the Anglo-Saxon, for here fell the chivalry of Hawaii, from which shock it never recovered. Six hundred chiefs fell in one battle, and with them perished much of the learning and glory of the ancients.* * Kalaniopuu, King of Western Hawaii, was born in 1752. In 1778 he waged a disastrous war against Kahehili, King of Maui, and Kame- hameha then fought as a soldier under his banner. Kalaniopuu died in April, 1782, leaving his kingdom to his son, Kiwalao. About three months later, in a battle between Kamehameha and Kiwalao and his party at Keomo, Hawaii, Kamehameha triumphed, Kiwalao was slain, and Keona became King of Kau and Puna. CELULAR MER OOViA THE HAWAIIANS: WHENCE CAME THEY AND THE FLORA OF THEIR ISLANDS !—THEIR KNOWLEDGE OF MEDICINE AND SURGERY. ¢¢77 ANSAS” having studied botany in connection with his business of gardening and nursery keeping, was prob- ably more interested in the flora of the islands than the ordinary visitor. He noted the great number of trees and plants found on the islands which were similar to those erowing on islands at great distances toward the South and West. This group was isolated by nearly 2000 miles from the nearest islands of the Pacific and from which these fiora must have come. They had evidently been carried by the people in olden times in their migrations, as otherwise their presence could not be accounted for. He had learned from the song and saga of the natives that the first immigrants had come up from the Southern seas. They had evidently brought with them such seeds or cuttings of useful trees as they had been accustomed to, and whose qualities, medicinal or otherwise, were requisite in their do- mestic economy. The cocoa-nut, probably the most useful to all savage races of all the fruit trees, could by no possible current have been carried to these islands.* The same could * This positive statement is open to criticism. It may be a fact that cocoanuts were brought to these islands by people in boats, and that none ever drifted here in ocean currents; still there seems to be authority for the statement that boats adrift at sea have been brought to these shores, by wind and currents, and if boats why not cocoanuts, or any other flotsam? There is a legend that in early days a Japanese junk drifted ashore at Waialua, on Oahu; and so late as 1898 a little schooner from Tahiti, the ‘‘Tetautua,’’ which tried to make Penrhyn from Scilly island, lost its course and reckoning, if it ever had any, and landed at Hookena, Hawaii—more than 2,000 miles away—a strange land to the people abroad. (Vide twelfth report of the Hawaiian Historical Society). In- formation obtained from a legendary source may be taken with a ‘‘pinch of salt’’; this applies to the junkstory, of course, but it also has relevancy to the flora, and people, that were on these islands when written history commenced. In other words, legends stand as we receive them, often, only because we are unable to disprove them. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 69 be said of the bread-fruit, a seedless tree, only propagated from shoots from the roots. The dissemination of plants and trees amongst the various atols, islands and archipelagoes of the Pacific is accounted for in many ways, principally by currents, winds, birds, and lastly and perhaps greatest, by human means. Very favorite trees as the kou, milo, hau, kamani, kukui, ti, wauke, ohia, ai; and amongst plants the sugar cane, yam, pia, awapuhi, olona, banana, taro, ape, uala, calabash, bottle-gourd, and awa or piper methysticum, are such as have no doubt been brought by the original inhabitants. The study of botany and the affinity of those on the Ha- waiian Islands to similar growths found elsewhere, may be of some aid in tracing the origin of this peculiar people. Others have endeavored to trace their origin by studying and comparing their language, manners and customs, religion, and similarity of habits with peoples of continents or other groups of islands, and have concluded that their ancestors came from Asia through the chain of islands running south- east from India to Australia. The discovery of the Hawaiian archipelago and the migra- tions which have followed would conclusively prove that a greater knowledge of navigation and astronomy was possessed by the ancients than we have given them credit for. All im- migrants have named new localities in accordance with names in the beloved land from which they emigrated. In America we find Plymouth, New Bedford, New Orleans, Nuevo Leon, etc., and by this means it is possible to trace the origin of the early settlers of those places, even should literature be utterly destroyed. We find in Hawaii names of districts similar to those in the older islands of Java and Sumatra, such as Hawaii (Java-iki), Hamakua, Koolau, Waimea, etc. The fact of finding so many trees and plants similar to those of the East Indies, which by no natural means could have been carried to this distant, isolated group, would confirm the 1m- pression that the Hawaiians emigrated from that part of the world. “Kansas” delighted to make use of his Yankee inquisitive- ness, and make inquiry as to the names and various uses each plant or tree was put to by the natives, and was continually surprised to note the great knowledge they had of the flora 70 The Master Planter; or of the islands. Naturally, amongst a people so circumscribed as the Hawaiians, and whose horizon was so limited, their at- tention would be turned to the resources of their own country. Every thing that was edible was known to them, many of which without the action of fire or condiments would be de- leterious. Emergencies had caused them to use plants that otherwise would not be eaten. Thus we find that the root of the tree-fern was in times of famine resorted to to sustain life. From the fronds of some fern a succulent greens was made. Taro, itself, without cooking is extremely acrid and poisonous. In a raw state, when grated, they used it as a medicine. Vessels of clay they had not, and the only thing that would stand fire was the cocoanut shell, wherein by dropping hot stones into the water, boiling water was obtained. Baking in ti-leaves and the large leaves of other plants was admirably conducted. Salt was made by evaporating sea water, and sometimes this was done by carrying the water in calabashes to great dis- tances and there evaporating it. Clay (Hawaiian equivalent, “palolo,’ sticky mud, adhesive dirt) was much used in surgery in putting the broken limb in a case and wrapping the whole in leaves. They boasted of their great success in this line. It certainly is a great antiphlogistic, and their action has been followed by our own surgeons. The juices of some fruits, as the noni, were used as remedies to pre- vent the falling of the hair. The astringent and laxative qualities of many roots and herbs were well known, and the kahunas practiced medicine successfully, although such practice was accompanied with considerable humbuggery and many incantations. Like Christian Science believers, they considered it necessary to first obtain the confidence of the patient and then treat his malady, although, unfortunately, some of the believers in Christian Science would attempt to cure without using the remedies which the Creator has placed in their hands. It would not be wise to attempt, in a book of this nature, to recite all that “Kansas” learned of the medicinal virtues of herbs and plants known to the Hawaiians, hundreds of which he made note of. They were frequently inclined to invent stories for his edification, and it was thought great fun to give false information in the matter of the uses of vegetable products. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 71 Life, to a native, appeared to be one round of frivolity, and it was rarely that one was met who gave a thought to the future or to laying up a contingency against a rainy day or old age. Life in the tropics is notoriously easy, and in the old times, when wants had not multiplied, the cultivation of a small tract was sufficient to supply food for a large number when eked out with the products of the sea, in the taking of which the natives were adepts. In another chapter a somewhat lengthy account will be given of the food stuffs of the islanders and of the manner of preparing them. “Kansas,” for his own amusement, edifica- tion and pastime made a study of the prime necessaries of life among the people, as well as of their knowledge of the arts and sciences prior to the advent of the foreigner. To this he had added the acquired knowledge of the working of the feudal system, and of the origin of the titles to real property. The study of these matters brought him into close relations with some of the most advanced of the natives, and a great increase of his knowledge of the vernacular, all of which proved of much value to him, as we will notice in future chapters. CHAR PER xv it HAWAIIAN HOSPITALITY AND CUSTOMS—PAGEANTRY OF A ROYAL TOUR AROUND THE ISLAND OF OAHU. ERE the author takes the liberty of inserting a chapter which has appeared in the Commercial Advertiser, and which, although written by himself, was said to be the best pen picture of Hawaiian hospitality and customs which has appeared in print. The edition was soon exhausted, there being many demands for it to send abroad. Editor Advertiser:—I hand you herewith a description of a tour around the Island of Oahu as told to me by my friend, the Hon. John A. Cum- mins (one of the last of the Hawaiian Chiefs), which I am sure will be of interest to many of your old-time subscribers, and also will show the malihinis how the Hawaiian entertained. Yours truly, JAS. W. GIRVIN. On October 10th, 1875, I received a letter from Her Majesty Queen Emma, stating that she wished to see me. As I had opposed her election and she knew I had been very instru- mental in securing the election of H. M. Kalakaua, on calling at her house I was agreeably surprised at the pleasant recep- tion she gave me. However, her husband, the late King Ka- mehameha IV, and I had been schoolmates and intimate friends, and during his reign I frequently entertained him at Waimanalo, and on more than one occasion I had the oppor- tunity of doing some kindness for Her Majesty. She made no mention of the past opposition to her, but asked me to ac- company her on a tour around the Island of Oahu. I had always honored and respected Her Majesty above all the Princes it had been my fortune to meet, and I have known all from the days of Kamehameha III to the present time, and I resolved to make her tour of the island one of great pleasure and comfort to her as well as one of note in Hawaiian his- tory. I am also a chief, descended on my mother’s side from Life in the Cane Fields of Hawait. 75 the same line of chiefs in Puna, Hawaii, from which sprang Kamehameha I, and Kalakaua. Being familiar with the sports of the Hawatians and some- what posted in Hawaiian mythology and occult mysteries, as well as being an adept at fishing and the preparation of the foods of the people, I knew I could make her tour a pleasant one. At that time I had considerable resources at command, being the konohiki, or lord of Waimanalo, and owner of hun- dreds of horses and cattle. The Queen asked me to fix a date convenient to me for the beginning of the grand tour, and requested me to take charge of all the details of the procession. I decided that Guy Fawkes’ Day, the 5th of November, should be the day of leaving Honolulu. Notices were put in the papers and also posters sent to prominent parties in dif- ferent parts of the island, fixing dates at which the cavalcade would arrive, and I endeavored to meet all those arrangements. On that day, in riding down Nuuanu avenue from Waima- nalo at 6:30 a. m., I saw a great many men, women and chil- dren carrying baskets and bundles of leis, some of ilima, some of marigolds, some of lehua blossoms and of ahihi done up in wrappers of ti-leaf and banana; lei lehua ahihi woven with maile, hala fruit leis done up in solid bundles as pai-ai or hard poi is put up, all being carried to their gracious Queen Emma. I had breakfast with Her Majesty and her mother, at which were present Peter Kaeo, Kunuiakea, and other high chiefs, at 7 a. m. At this hour the city and surrounding country were covered with mist and a light rain was falling in the valleys, and as the sun shone on them innumerable rainbows and in some instances double rainbows were produced, which some prognosticated to indicate an auspicious commencement of our pageant. I had brought in some of my best horses, and gave Her Majesty an animal of fine pedigree named “Kekonikauaikana- hele” for her sole use, and which she rode throughout the journey. He appeared to realize that he was carrying royalty, and, although cavorting from side to side and making as much of an exhibition as a good horse can do, he was as gentle as any lady could wish. 74 The Master Planter; or Kuliouou and Makapuu. After breakfast the cavalcade was put in order. It consisted of one hundred and forty women, riding astride, dressed in the brightest colors the stores of Honolulu afforded. The pa-u or riding habit of the women consists of a long piece of bright print wrapped around the hips and extending down to the stirrup, from whence it flares out behind when the horse is in motion. The impression as we swept through the streets on our dashing horses must have been gorgeous. Her Majesty and myself led the procession, followed by her mother and other chiefs. The streets of Honolulu were thronged with people to witness the grand sight, and it would appear that the whole city and many from the country had turned out to see the departure. We rode down Nuuanu street and along King and up into Beretania and thence out towards Kamoiliili. At Kuliouou we were entertained at luncheon by Mr. and Mrs. Pico. They had provided all the luxuries to which foreigners are accustomed, and also a magnificent native luau. The food was exceedingly plentiful and much more than was necessary, even for so large a number. We got away from there at 1 p. m. and rode down across the plains of Kaea, Kamehame, and along the paved way to the foot of Makapuu. On Makapuu point stood the hula god Malei,* which was duly saluted, and we descended the precipice. Here the royal party saw a sight such as they had not expected, and such as will never be seen in Hawaii again. Six mounted knights in red costume and red visors, carrying torches, presented arms to the Queen. As the procession wended its way onward every three hundred yards an arch bearing a motto in the Hawaiian language pre- sented itself, welcoming Her Majesty to the Koolaus. No two of these mottos were alike, and some were from the ancient hid- den tongue known only to the chiefs. These letters were con- structed of combustibles and burned until the whole cavalcade reached my home-place, ‘‘Mauna Rose,” a distance of four miles. Waimanalo, All the arrangements for welcoming the Queen had been made by me or through my orders. Her arrival was welcomed by a * A modern, powerful United States lighthouse stands there now. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawai. 73 corps of men blowing horns made from lauhala leaves. All the residents of the neighborhood had assembled to see their be- loved Queen, and as she passed lay prone on the ground out of deference to old Hawaiian customs, although such usage had passed and was not expected of them by Her Majesty. I had erected two very large lanais which were covered with cocoa palm leaves, either one of which would have seated 200 guests. At 5:30 p. m. Her Majesty, the chiefs, and the whole party sat down to a feast of all the good things of which the Hawaiians are so fond. At 8:30 p. m. the luau was over and the hula began. I had made arrangements for illuminations and fireworks, and rockets were fired from the precipitous moun- tains in the rear. Blue lights and other pyrotechnics enlightened the heavens and made the night brilliant, and three hundred torches burned throughout the night. Three sets of hula dancers and singers relieved each other through the night, and daylight found the hula still fresh. This entertainment lasted three whole days and nights. At 8 a. m. two tables sufficient to ac- commodate two hundred guests were spread for breakfast. The preparation of poi, fish of many kinds and served in many forms, as dried, lawalued, fried, boiled, etc., had occupied the services of several good stewards, and good stewards among the Ha- waiians are adepts at such luaus. Among the good things Hawaiians relish most is limu, or sea-weed, and at this luau a great many kinds were served, to mention the names of which would only be confusing. Naturally foreign delicacies were not neglected, and tea, coffee, chocolate, cake, bread and butter, meats of all kinds were served in pro- fusion as called for at each feast, for it was a round of feasts. After breakfast, on the first day, all parties proceeded to amuse themselves in such manner as life in the country afforded. Prob- ably half of the party went to the mountains to gather maile, awapuhi, ohawai, palapalai and hala fruit to make leis for the afternoon. The other half remained at home; and I prepared some rare fishing sports. It was a great day with the fisher- men, who excel in that part of the island. Quantities of fish of many kinds were caught. Amongst these were honu or turtle, ula, opihi, okala, uhu, palani, hee, ohua, manini, kumu and others. Fisherman Malokea, and his large gang of men and women with sweeping nets caught lots of moi, sandfish, akule, and others, the sweepers covering a distance of 76 The Master Planter; or five miles of beach from Muliwaiolena to Puukiloia. Her Ma- jesty and most of the party had a sea-bath and witnessed sports on the water before returning to Mauna Rose. Puewai of Puha. In the meantime I had a gang of men at work preparing to open the bar at the mouth of Puha river. This bar or dam had accumulated for some years and much water was backed up. I had seen this opened on a former occasion, and the sports of the natives in swimming the raging waters, and determined to give Her Majesty and party a view of this ancient sport. To this end I had a gang of men cut and carry away much of the embank- ment so that but little would be required to bring down the flood. An opening of 20 feet or more having been made in the dam the water rushed out at the rate of 30 knots or more. The bore or surge caused was very high, and only two men and two women dared to play on this water-surf, called Pue-wai. One strong man of fine form went across and back holding up the tip end of his malo. This was the grand sport of the day and was the subject of comment by all who witnessed it. Her Majesty pre- sented each of these four with $100 and four pair of red blankets. “Hee-Pue-Wai’” was a bye-word for several days thereafter. At 4 o'clock p. m. the whole party, augmented by many from the Koolau district, sat down to a bountiful and elaborate din- ner. Four chief stewards looked after the welfare of the guests and two chefs de cuisine took charge of the foreign part of the entertainment. Amongst the provisions prepared were ten hogs, one whole bullock cooked in different styles, ducks and turkeys in quantity, also fish of all descriptions served in as many imagin- able ways. During the night one table was kept supplied with food and drinkables. On the second night the bonfires on the mountains were kept up all night. The second breakfast was not so well attended, many of the guests having indulged too freely in fresh pork. On the 7th I decided to give an exhibition of my trained horses, and other sports were also introduced at Hunananiho. I had then eleven horses under training, all of which were thor- oughbreds; and four jockeys. The races were very good, and as Hawaiians are lovers of the sport the whole party had a rare treat. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. Ee Every day while the Queen was at Waimanalo large quanti- ties of fish of all descriptions were brought in. Her Majesty was in good health and entered into the joys of the people, rid- ing and driving around the country. I taught her to use the rifle, and she did some excellent shooting, on several occasions smashing a bottle at 140 yards, and could cut a twine with a rifle ball at a long distance. The people from all parts of the Koolaus kept arriving and bringing in their hookupus, or gifts, of foodstuffs. New hula dancers. also presented themselves as the reputation for the dis- tribution of prizes spread throughout the island. I had to send much of the eatables away to Judge Pii’s house at Kaneohe, where the next station of the procession was to be. Notwith- standing the great concourse of people to be entertained, my work was made comparatively easy by the genial disposition of the people and the faculty Hawaiians have of caring for them- selves. The presence of the Queen forbade any rudeness or un- due existence of spirit, or quarreling, amongst this large num- ber of guests. Kaneohe. After another grand breakfast on the eighth, the whole party being ready, we made a start for Kaneohe by way ok Aleles Jt was a great crowd, all on horseback and all dressed in bright colors, with beautiful leis. The cavalcade was led by six mounted knights in red with burning torches. Many people stood on the Pali to witness the course of the procession. At the boundary of Wailea I had an immense bonfire. Here I had erected an immense arch of fire fifteen feet high through which each member of the party was compelled to ride. The arch was covered with gunny sacks saturated with kerosene and then covered with ieie vine. At high moon Her Majesty and I rode through this hoop of fire followed by the balance of the pro- cession. We thus left the boundary of my land, and were in Kailua, from where we had a view of our own party on the plain of Alele. At Judge Pii’s house at Kaneohe great preparations for enter- taining on a grand scale had been made. I had two men in charge of the three hundred torches and pack horses for the same. Two more cared for the eatables and drinkables, and four 7& The Master Planter; or more bringing horses and a Concord buggy and double team of black horses. Here the hula kept up all night, and no sleep could be had. W aikane. After breakfast the next morning the procession took up its way to Waikane, to Mr. Kamealoha’s place. I drove the Queen behind my black span and her mother followed in her carry-all. Good humor and joviality sat on every feature, and with oli and mele the procession made its way to its desti- nation at the next station. Her Majesty appeared very much gratified at the numerous expressions of good will, and once remarked to me that if I had caused her to be elected she as- suredly would have appointed me one of her ministers. I replied that although my father was an Englishman, he be- lieved it was for the best interests of the country that there should be a king at the head of the nation rather than a Queen, and that it was preferable that American influence should sway the throne rather than English, as we feared it would be if we elected Her Majesty. Also that I had asked her what her wishes were on a former occasion, and she had assured me that she did not contemplate being a candidate for election to the throne. Arriving at Kamealoha’s place, through six magnificent arches of evergreen, we found prepa- rations to entertain a thousand people. Her Majesty and party were here assured of a most hearty welcome. Without being tautological, I can say that the immensity of leis of hala-fruit and others that were prepared for our adornment was stupendous. To describe the great fish prepared in many styles, both raw, dried and cooked, the hogs, poultry and delicious comestibles would take more space than I can af- ford, although not more than the love displayed by her peo- ple deserves. Notwithstanding the immense number to be fed, the hookupus, or gifts of food, had increased the store of provisions to such an extent that from there I was com- pelled to send by the schooner “Rob Roy,” to Her Majesty’s residence in Honolulu, nine live hogs, eight bundles of dried mullet, six barrels poi, two dozen fowls, etc. Kamealoha had two large thatch houses and a large school house at his command for sleeping quarters, and had erected an immense lanai for the luau. He was a well-to-do citizen, and as gen- Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 79 erous and hospitable as any whom we met on the grand tour. At night the torches burned and the hula went on, and joviality and free intercourse was the rule. Kahana. After breakfast the next day, all feeling refreshed, the pro- cession proceeded on its way, to Kahana. [Before arriving there the cavalcade passed through a region where melons grew profusely, and the residents passed to those of the party who would accept, goblets of fermented melon juice and ti- root cider, which both refreshed and inspirited them. Here a Chinese, Apakana, and his Hawaiian wife, Mary, a sister of Kamakini, received us all very warmly and had made great preparations for our entertainment. To see two hun- dred horses tied out in the grounds and their accoutrements on fences and trees, alone was a novelty. This foreigner, Apa- kana, seemed to vie with the Hawaiians in his endeavor to entertain Her Majesty and suite in form commensurate with her rank. The feast he and his wife spread out was ample for twice the number of our party, although our numbers ap- peared to steadily increase. There was a plethora of poi, sweet potatoes, rice, hogs, fish, raw and cooked; more than enough for five hundred people for four days. Here we saw the largest oios, a most delicious fish, which we had on the grand tour. Crowds of people joined us here, some leading pack-horses loaded with melons, sugar cane, bananas, cocoa- nuts, dried fish, etc. Excepting Her Majesty and a few others, all went in bathing in the large river there. Punaluu. After a late breakfast the procession took up its journey to Punaluu. Here were three very large thatch houses. The natives there had a hui, or ownership in common, and we remained with them two days, but were no burden to them as we carried so large a store of provisions. The hula and speech-making was kept going continually, and it was the noisiest place. we found in the grand tour, even the Chinese adding to the din with their firecrackers. The feasting ap- peared to be continuous. The provisions multiplied to such an extent that I was compelled to send a schooner from there 80 The Master Planter; or to Honolulu with ten bags rice, ten barrels poi, ten bags sweet potatoes, ten hogs and pigs and two dozen fowls. We left there on Wednesday morning, intending to make Lane’s place at Hauula that night, and had forwarded much of our provisions and paraphernalia there. When about to start from Punaluu one of the principal natives, Keaunui, invited the Queen to take a surf-ride in his two and one-half fathom canoe. He was a very large and fine-looking man, and had a great local reputation. He had about fifty fathoms of small line and two horses, the intention being to pull the canoe just inside the breakers, parallel with the beach for a distance of four miles. The beach terminated at his house, where he had prepared a fine luau for the Queen and party. Her Majesty declined to go in the canoe with Keaunui, but said she would go with me, having more confidence in my care of her. We got out of the buggy and I purchased 125 fathoms of line at a Chinese store, and one of my boys took the kinks out of it. I had it made fast close to the fore out-rigger of the canoe so that it forced the canoe out about 100 fathoms. I had nothing on but a malo and broad-brimmed straw hat. The Queen left her shoes and stockings and got into the canoe and sat down, holding firmly by the out-rigger. The beach was crowded with people to witness the great sight of a Queen taking a perilous ride in the surf. I had two good horses at the end of the long rope and gave the canoe a strong shove cut to sea and jumped in at the same time. The horses went full speed along the beach. I turned my paddle up and kept the canoe out the full length of the rope, and the speed must have been thirty knots. Then I played with the Queen, dip- ping the out-rigger into the sea, which threw the spray over us, causing a rainbow to those on the beach. The Chinese left their rice fields to see this great surf-riding. In the canoe the Queen only was visible. We had the rushing of the surf and the speed of the horses to propel us, and flew through the water. Her Majesty enjoyed the perilous surf ride, although she was wet through and through when we landed at Keau- nui’s house. Eight strapping kanakas lifted the canoe and both of us out of the sea and carried us up to the house at Kapaka, Koolauloa. Although Keaunui had his feast ready, we had to go up to Kaliuwaa waterfalls to bathe and get the brine off and change our clothing. The natives carried both the Queen and myself to Kaliuwaa. Kekela, the Queen’s Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 81 mother, remained at Kapaka until our return. This waterfall is also one of the historical points on the Island of Oahu, about which many legends are told. After swimming, high jumping, diving and other sports in which the large crowd joined in the beautiful pool there, refreshing drinks were passed around amidst great hilarity. The pool is about fifty feet across, very cold and quite deep. Hauula and Laiemaloo. On our return to Keaunui’s we enjoyed the great feast he had prepared. He had every Hawaiian luxury that could be desired. We left there quite late, but many of our party had gone ahead to Hauula, Mr. Lane’s place. We did not arrive until 10 p. m., and the whole party were tired. I stirred them all up and got the hula people to make a noise. Mr. Lane and wife were very much annoyed at us for being so slow in arriving, as the luau had been ready some hours before. How- ever, they got up a nice breakfast for all the next morning and we got the procession started for Laiemaloo. Here J. W. Kupau entertained us. He had eight large houses and one large lanai. At this place was the great hula man, Kapuao- kahala, and his three daughters. He had the reputation of being the best hula player in Hawaii-nei. We remained here two nights and had a grand time. All the residents of the neighborhood flocked to see the royal train, and they camped out under the hau and hala trees. There was an abundance of fat hogs and pigs, beef, poultry and fish. There was much steam: consumed by the camp-followers, so as to keep every- thing going lively. The different kinds of hula, as puniu, alaa, papa, uliuli, paili, paiumauma, etc., were witnessed as performed by this old-time hula master. I had to take this crowd of hula singers to Honolulu with us to keep up the merriment of the party, and sent the old crowd back to their homes in Kaneohe, Mokapu, Kailua and Kaaawa. This new party of hula singers and performers got the whole procession in good humor. Here the Queen bought lots of blankets and calico for the poor people, and many shirts called uewahine, and gave to them after breakfast on the second day. We got away for Kahuku, where Judge Kaluhi entertained us. This is the land of the hala tree. We had four very large houses, and all the walks around and from 82 The Master Planter; or house to house were covered with matting called ue. Every one took care of his own horse and all were welcome. The viands were most abundant. At night I had all the torches burning, which lighted up all Kahuku. Our party by this time had increased to over three hundred, and the number of visitors and friends from the neighborhood was very large. At the midnight luau I sent word around among the peo- ple that there should be no one leaving here for Waimea or Waialua who had not a wreath of hala-fruit, and that we would leave after breakfast on the morrow. This caused a scramble to the woods in the dark to gather the fruit for the leis. By daybreak every one had a hala lei on and we got away for Waialua. Her Majesty, her mother, and I drove in carriages, but the hundreds were on horseback. In all our traveling we had had no rain, but now we struck a heavy shower near Judge Kalanipoo’s house at Waimea, where we stopped and enjoyed his hospitality. He had more than suff- cient food prepared for all our 300 and odd people. The weather cleared up and we got off to Waialua. Judge Ka- lanipoo sent two ox-carts loaded with provisions on ahead, which were left at Ukoa-makaha, Waialua, at Kaleikini’s place. Her Majesty and I led the procession, but I had two of my best horsemen as out-riders, who maintained discipline. Great preparations had been made by Kaleikini, assisted by Mrs. Apakana, for entertaining the great party. Waialua, Waipo and Moanalua. We remained at Waialua four days. No sooner had we arrived than the natives, men, women and children, and loaded ox-carts from all directions began to arrive with their hoo- kupus. I had more provisions than I knew what to do with. Some of these were for myself, but I passed them all over to the Queen. Amongst the hookupus was a box of white geese, marked on the outside “Keoni Kamaki.” Taking it for sranted it was for me, I gave it to the Queen. It developed afterwards that the case was for John Dominis, whose native name was similar to mine. I had many of my own people with me and made them care for the goods. At 8 p. m. all sat down to one of the best dinners I ever saw. After the Queen’s table was over another was set, and so on all through the night. Of course the hula kept up and was as noisy as Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaut. 8&3 it could be. Owen and John and James Holt, who owned a large ranch in the vicinity, helped very much in arranging for the comfort of this great crowd. The Queen had a head steward who had twenty men under him, ten of whom guarded by day and ten by night. My torch bearers renewed their stock of kerosene at every Chi- nese store throughout the route and looked after their work well. From Waialua I took the opportunity to ship by the schooner “Tuka” ten barrels poi, ten sacks sweet potatoes, eight bun- dles dried anae, three dozen turkeys, four dozen fowls, eleven large hogs, eleven small pigs, four sheep and one dozen white geese to be delivered at Her Majesty’s house in Honolulu, directing that there should be given from these to the King and each of the chiefs a share of each commodity shipped. The hookupus kept on coming in during each day of our stay. The inhabitants of Waialua district were exceedingly kind to the Queen and her party. Bundle after bundle of maile leis and leis of maile laulii o koiahi. Natives from distant Waianae brought to Her Majesty quantities of their famous fine-flavored cocoanuts, called poka-i. Four days in Waialua seemed to. me to be too much, but it did not seem that way to the people, as they appeared to enjoy themselves very much, Every meal was crowded with them. Bathing parties were in the sea at all times, as were fishing coteries, while others were visiting the uplands. It was curious to me to note that I had no trouble with this army of friends, but they were well disciplined and polite. Assuredly Waialua never saw such a sight before and never will again. Every surf- board in the vicinity was in use, and there were some rare actors amongst this mass of people, who hailed from all parts of the island. On the morning of the fourth day, after another great break- fast, the cavalcade was formed for the ride towards Honolulu. It was one of the most beautiful sights ever seen, to look back on the procession from the uplands; and Her Majesty was continually looking back at the bright colored procession which followed us, four abreast. There were three hundred women with gaudy leis of bright flowers and maile wreaths, their horses also being decked out with evergreens. The horses pranced and looked well, the women looked fat and smiling and every face was wreathed in smiles. 84 The Master Planter. Only the Hawaiian language can describe the joy of the return pilgrimage. It was a long ride to Waipio, but we got there safely and put up at the house of one of the Queen’s re- tainers. He also had a sufficiency to eat, but there was no rest, as the quarters were limited and the noise fearful. After breakfast the cavalcade pushed on to Moanalua to Her High- ness Keelikolani’s house, where great preparations had been made to entertain so vast a multitude which had still farther swollen by numbers who had come out from Honolulu to es- cort us home. An immense lanai had been constructed of cocoanut leaves, a beautiful structure. Here all the Ha- waiian luxuries were ready for a final luau on an exceedingly grand scale. I never saw such an abundance of leis made of lehua blossoms, and cannot imagine where they came from. Just as the party were ready to partake of the viands a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and light- ning, fell, which drenched every one to the skin. Still we determined to sit through it. I should state that we were here joined by about two hundred people on horseback from town. After the luau we resumed our march towards town, the Queen on “Kekonikauaikanahele” and I on “Taiehu,”’ which was a most beautiful white horse with red spots the size of a dime. Her Majesty and the horse were covered with leis of lehua and pikaki, and every one of the seven or eight hun- dred were likewise bedecked with leis. We led the proces- sion, followed by the whole cavalcade, along King street, up Richards and along Beretania to Her Majesty’s house. All dismounted and bade Her Majesty farewell, and I took my men home to Waimanalo, having been fifteen days on the merriest, wildest jaunt of my life. I am sure I have neglected to tell much of the fun that went on at each resting place, but the whole was an Hawaiian holiday according to the ancient custom of enjoyment, and it is unlikely that such could ever be repeated. CPAP PER 2. Li THE TRANSFORMATION OF “KANSAS’—FROM “SHIPPED MAN” TO PLANTATION MANAGER IN ELEVEN MONTHS. NE evening, as he sat reading, the Chinese steward from the house rushed in, and in a very excited manner told him, “Mamma (the planter’s wife) wanted him to go there quick, bossy he fall down dead.” Our hero felt that something very serious had happened at the house, and in a few strides he was there. Here he found everything in confusion, the ladies wringing their hands and crying, excepting mamma, and she was on Pie floor chafing her husband’s hands, bathing his face and calling for remedies, and especially urging them to send for “Kansas.” When he appeared she appealed to him to save her husband. “Oh, you can do it,” she said, “he had such confidence in you and said that when anything went wrong to call on you.’ “Kansas” found that the planter had fallen from his chair while sitting quietly amidst his family, in what appeared to be an apoplectic fit, and was dead from heart failure. fale quickly stripped the clothing from the prostrate man’s chest and applied his ear to endeavor to learn any signs of life. He fancied he detected a slight murmur of the heart, and some pulsation at the wrist. ie used cold water copiously, and finding life not extinct took out his knife and opened a vein in the man’s arm and bled him quite freely. His patient immediately began to show signs of life, and very soon they were enabled to get him into bed. One of the servants had gone for the doctor, who lived at a distance of about four miles. When the doctor arrived, he approved all that our hero had done, and freely commended him for his prompt action. The doctor said it was a fit of apoplexy, and it was extremely fortunate that there was some one on the spot who had the nerve and knowledge to act as “Kansas” had done, as it had undoubtedly saved the planter’s life. 86 The Master Planter; or Mamma said openly, “Yes, papa said that if any kind of trouble came to call on ‘Kansas’; he thinks ‘Kansas’ knows more about anything than anybody.” Our hero felt flattered; but he had had some experience in accidents, and had read of similar cases. The ladies made remarks which showed that they had taken notice of him, al- though he had not had the honor of an introduction, nor of conversing with them. Mamma could not refrain from ex- pressing her joy at the restoration of her husband from ap- parent death, and from her language he knew that he had often been the theme of conversation in the home. After a few days the planter was able to be out on the veranda, but the doctor ordered that he should leave the plantation and go abroad for a year at least, saying that a re- currence of the fit would probably prove fatal. His wife abetted the doctor and pleaded with her husband to take her East, which he had promised to do at many times, although each succeeding year found him no better prepared to leave the islands than the former one. He said he would go but had no one to leave in charge of the plantation. He had de-_ pended so much on himself, that now in his emergency, there was no one whom he could leave in charge. His wife said, “There is ‘Kansas,’ you say he knows every- thing, and you owe your life to him.” “Yes,” he replied, “ ‘Kansas’ would do, but it looks so ab- surd to put a contract laborer in charge of a plantation.” It was Hobson’s choice, however. He sent for “Kansas” and made him the proposition that he take the managership of the plantation. What was his surprise when the man firmly replied that he could not do it, that he had other plans in view when his year was out. “But we will cancel the contract now, and I will pay you one hundred dollars per month from this on,” said the planter. “Still I could not do it,” said “Kansas,” “I have other views and plans, and time is passing. I really came to you on an apprenticeship, and not for pay. My wife and family are looking forward to our reunion, and I have by your assistance made a thorough study of the sugar industry, and now that my apprenticeship draws to a close I feel that I must go into the business on my own account.” Here was a revelation. “Why, where is your wife?” said mamma. Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 87 “With our children in Honolulu, and they can hardly wait until my time is up,” replied “Kansas.” “You are an enigma,” said mamma; “if I had known you were a married man and that your family was in this country, I should certainly have insisted on bringing them here. “We could not well live on eight dollars a month,” said “Kansas,” “and like Abraham of old, I was afraid to admit that I had a wife, for fear I would get no employment; I had tried that too often before.” “I knew you had a wife,” said the planter, “for my captain told me that he had talked with her about you in Honolulu, but I did not give the matter any weight.” “Kansas,” said the planter, “I will make you a fair proposi- tion. Now bring your family here, take the home and all as it stands, carriages and all, manage the plantation, and I will pay you three thousand dollars per year for three years.” “Well, Mr. ——-———.,, your proposition appears to be fair, and it certainly is as good as forty-five hundred dollars a year, but it is your proposition. Here is mine: You are content with your present receipts, are you not?” ses, ‘said the planter. “Now,” said “Kansas,” “I propose to accept your offer, with the addition that you give me, besides, fifty per cent. of all I shall raise in excess of what you have done during the past season.” “T accept the terms,” said the planter, feeling that he was dealing with a stronger mind than his own. A lawyer was sent for and a contract, embodying the speci- fied terms, was drawn up and executed in duplicate. First the original contract was produced and cancelled. The plant- er’s wife begged “Kansas” to give her the contract, as she wanted to have it framed. ‘Oh, no,” said our hero, “that repre- sents eleven months of servitude, and my wife will prize it more than you.” He then went to Honolulu to get his wife and family, and he could not help feeling the vast difference between the cabin fare and comfort as compared with the trip of misery he had on deck a year ago. The meeting with his wife will not be de- scribed. She could hardly realize that this sunburned, swarthy man was the same individual she had taken for better or for worse SO many years ago. She was now to rank as a planter’s wife, and his draft was 88 The Master Planter. to be honored to the extent of thousands. How did it all come about? She felt that all their cares were ended, and that he only received a just reward of merit. He knew that they were only at the foot of the ladder, and that years of labor and care were ahead of him. After a week’s stay in Honolulu, where they purchased such necessaries as would be needed, and where he presented his letters of introduction to the agents, they took passage for Ka- hului. They were met by the planter with carriages and driven up to the ranch. They were the cynosure of all the beach-combers of Kahului. “Wall, I swow,” said one old blatherskite, “if that ain’t H’s bullock driver.” “T’ll be jiggered,” said another, “if you couldn’t knock me down with a feather.” All united in saying that he was a hard-working man, and as smart as a steel trap; but they seemed to think it could not be right for a bullock driver and a “shipped hand” to be ele- vated to the position of manager of a plantation. One said he was a millionaire in disguise, and had merely played it on the old man to acquire a knowledge of the extent of the re- sources of the plantation. Another said that he had bought the plantation, and that Farwell, who made out the papers, had said as much as that. The planter and his wife welcomed “Kansas” and his wife and the two families became quite intimate during the in- terval prior to the departure of the old planter and his house- hold on their long journey. GHAR CE RES HAWAII LEADS THE WORLD IN SCIENTIFIC SUGAR CANE CULTI- VATION. and his family a loving farewell, and met “Kansas’s” wife and little ones. “Oh, Mrs. H., said she, “I knew all about ‘Kansas’s’ wife and family, and it was a mutual understanding that I should say nothing about them to any one.” “Well, Mary,” said Mrs. H., “you are the one woman of my acquaintance who can keep a secret.” Mrs. H. emphatically asserted what she would have done if she had known that “Kansas” had a wife and little ones in Honolulu, and from her well-known friendly, hospitable char- acter we can readily believe she would have taken radical measures to bring this pair together long ere this. However, they admitted that after the experience he had had he was justified in pursuing the course he did, until such times as he could have a chance of making his value known. Many of the neighboring planters came to bid adieu to their old friends, and on being introduced to his successor they extended the right hand of fellowship and welcomed him to the society of the community. ‘‘Kansas” could not help re- calling the expression of the old missionary in Lahaina, “Ha- waii-nei is a country where a man finds his level sooner than in any other.” The past year had been of inestimable value to him in so many more ways than if he had come in at the top instead of working his way up. Not only had his knowl- edge of the cultivation of sugar been thoroughly acquired, but being unharassed by the necessary interruptions of the care of a family, his general knowledge had been greatly expanded through his studies and observation. His acquaintance with the language of the people and the geography of the surround- ing country must inure to his benefit in the coming years of his management. M ARY, the old parson’s daughter, came to bid the planter 90 The Master Planter; or After the planter and his family had left, our hero got down to business in earnest, and the following chapters will show how he succeeded under his second contract. He knew that sugar was made in the field and that the technicalities of the mill and office were secondary. With maps before him of the fine estate of which he was the manager, and with the payroil and estimates which he had at hand, he proceeded to plan a campaign as scientifically as though it were a game of chess He did not intend to let things go at haphazard. That labor was becoming scarcer he knew from the conver- sation overheard between visiting planters, and that its price would go up was a certainty. There was therefore a necessity of meeting this dilemma. He must make the land yield more, and he must save a larger percentage of the crop. The estate was a very large one, and the question presented was whether it was not better to confine the cultivation to a smaller tract, thereby producing a larger yield, or to go on as it had been and scatter his hands over the great acreage with no larger returns, Had the lands been under irrigation, where the rattoons, when well cultivated, are almost equal to first crop, he would have decided to put in as much as he could get water for. As the main standby of this plantation must be the first planting, he decided to merely put in the acreage that he could cultivate well, and to waste no labor on rattoons unless in certain locali- ties where the lay of the land warranted an outlay. He knew from what he had gathered from the Commissioner’s conver- sation on Haleakala that the whole soil was alluvion, and that the leaf mould from decayed ferns, and decomposed lava were continually being washed down by the tropical rains and would enrich the lower lands forever. He knew of the dearth of the rains for surface moisture, but felt that he could partially correct that by adding to the soil its complement, at but a slight expense. His decision was made that he would aid nature by correcting the soil. His agents were overwhelmingly surprised to receive from him an order for a thousand tons of gypsum, to be procured at Los Angeles, at a figure not to exceed $3.50 per ton, f. 0. b. As his letter was explicit and definite, they obeyed his instruc- tions, and in a short time his carts were carrying from Kahului gypsum to be ground and spread along in the trenches when planting. He bought a pair of French burs, formerly used in Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. Ot a flour-mill at Wailuku, and having power to spare, he set them up at the mill to grind the gypsum. Gypsum, you know, is 46% sulphuric acid, 33% lime, and 21% water, in round numbers. To a soil that was largely alluvion, made up of leaf mould and decomposed lava, lime was a complement. The action of the sulphuric acid tended to retain water that the rootlets might take up the plant food necessary for the growth of the cane. Our readers will recall the anecdote of Franklin’s endeavors to persuade his neighbors to use Plaster of Paris on their lands. Plaster of Paris is merely calcined gypsum. They ridiculed him, but one of them granted his permission to try it on a certain field of wheat. The wily old gentleman sprin- kled it freely along the field near the road, and long before harvest passers could read in letters in the higher grain, Kae Ke Kaew KKK Kh Kh Kh Kh Kh Kh KK Kh KK Kk * x * “THIS FIELD WAS PLASTERED.” * * * TORK KOKO K KOR EE KEKE EK KKK KR Re To this day every farmer in Pennsylvania uses plaster from some mine in the vicinity, and many have learned that its ef- fect is just as good on the soil when not calcined as when it has been subjected to the action of fire and the water driven out of it. But to the soil of this Makawao plantation the lime was ex- actly what was wanted. To fertilize a crop extending over so much acreage as was under cultivation on this estate would require an immensity of capital, but our hero believed it would some day be done, and in the meanwhile he determined to correct the acidity of the soil in some localities, to manure as much as possible, and to fertilize as far as he could. Towards manuring he collected all the effete leaves and hauled them to a mulch hole into which triturated the surplus water from the mill, which had been led in pipes from Kaluanui for the house and mill, to which he added whatever other waste ma- terial he could collect; and succeeded in preparing quite a pile of compost against the next season. To this he added the droppings from the cattle and sheep, collected from the fields. After the soil had been plowed and cross-furrowed, and 92 The Master Planter; or trenched by a mould-board, he spread the manure in the trenches immediately previous to planting. The seed of cane, so-called, is really a piece of the cane, and is a foot or more in length. Probably the best seed is the part nearest the ground, and like any other plants, vegetables or fruits, the best results are to be obtained from the best selected seed. The richness of the lower or butt end of the stalk in saccharine matter caused the planters to use the upper or valueless part. In the matter of seed he also knew that it is nature’s law that seed from a distant field produced better cane than the re- planting of a space with seed which had grown on the spot, and the attempt was made by him to import seed from La- haina and elsewhere, and his theory proved correct. Although much of the land on this estate was virgin soil, he knew that to make it produce to its highest capacity it was as necessary to fertilize the plant on it as it was in older cul- tivated lands. After the cane was up he supplied each hill with a fertilizer, a composition of apatite, guano and potash salts, although he did not fail to first correct and manure the soil. At the stage when the cane is about six inches above ground such a fertilizer had a marvellous effect. It appears to compel the cane to grow. The great liar of Lahaina said “that he was unable to sleep at nights from the noise made by the crackling of the joints of the cane in its growth in the field adjoining his house.” Rats are a great enemy of the cane, and their gnawings cause much loss directly and indirectly on a large plantation. If the rat would confine its attention to a particular stalk until that was eaten and then attack others, the attention of the planter would not be so much diverted to him, but they do not so confine their attacks, and apparently nibble at several before the appetite is satisfied. “Kansas” felt that it paid to keep a Chinaman or two continually employed with a score of rat terriers, who reported daily to the bookkeeper, showing the tails of his captures each day. Cane thus rat-eaten does not fall as a rule, but continues to grow. One-half of the stalk would sour, from the admission of air where the rind or skin was broken and the other half be sweet. To correct this acidity at the mill required the use of lime, an over-use of which has the effect of preventing proper crystallization and of convert- ing grape sugar into glucose. Cane soured by the borer is sim- Life in the Cane Fields of Hawau. 95 ilar to that which is rat-eaten, and the expense of frequently stripping the older leaves at the base is very great. Some planters argued that it were cheaper to stand the loss from the action of the borer than to pursue expensive strip- ping. Such a line of conduct can only result in giving the borer the opportunity to multiply immeasurably, and would not only be injurious to any particular plantation, but also to those in the vicinity. It is the same principle on which mu- nicipal governments demand of all inhabitants a cleanliness in their surroundings for sanitary reasons. The good agricul- turist will not only keep his fields free from weeds, but will also persevere in his endeavors to exterminate such pests of insect or animal life as militate against the welfare of his crops for his own sake, Different planters have varied opinions in regard to the de- tails of cultivation of cane. One for instance, whose lands were under irrigation, insisted that it was unnecessary to plow the whole land and that to trench across the plain merely where the cane was to be planted was sufficient. He held that such procedure involved the use of less water, holding that disturbed soil would by capillary attraction absorb more water. He was unacquainted with the action of the air and its benefi- cent effect on plant life. The skin formed on lands, during non-use, largely prevents the circulation of the life-giving air to the rootlets, which aids much in causing the fermentation necessary for the production of plant-food found in the soil. In studying animal economy it is discovered that the animal is merely different from the plant in that its rootlets (the vill of the intestines) are on the inside instead of outside. That the food masticated, digested, and converted into life-sustaining matter must by fermentation (which is life forming) be in a proper state for absorption, or such absorption by the villi will be abortive. Should the food which is taken into the animal system be mixed with certain chemicals, salicylic acid for instance, which is destructive to the animalculae produced dur- ing fermentation, no benefit will accrue to the animal. The whole theory of life is that one life lives on another. In plant life it is similar, and the food to be properly digested or assimilated must be in the right stage. The action of air and water on soils has the peculiar tendency of promoting the very life-giving food upon which the plant depends. To contend, therefore, that the prevention of the underground cir- 904 The Master Planter. culation of the air is as beneficial as the promotion of such circulation, betrays an ignorance unaccountable in the farmer of the nineteenth century. Our agricultural colleges teach these matters, and farmers’ sons on returning from school find their parents practicing them, although unable to give reasons for such methods, farther than “custom has shown it to be the most advantag- eous.” Lazy, or pseudo-economical farmers, who know that nature’s laws require that land must lie idle at least one year in seven, who fail to plow up such land prior to giving it the requisite rest, never realize the crops that the intelligent cul- tivator does. Some fearful mistakes have been made by parvenu, or par- ties who have acquired large capital in other walks in life, who have gone into sugar culture and attempted to direct the culti- vation their way. However, they received their lessons, and with burnt fingers have retired. There is probably no business wherein the losses occasioned by mistakes or ignorance are greater than that of sugar culture, and few agricultural pur- suits which reward the educated farmer to the extent that it does. To know the nature of this grass, for it belongs to the grass family, the soil best adapted to the different varie- ties of it, to properly cultivate and nurse the soil by adding its complement, manure and fertilizer, and finally to preserve the whole juice of the plant in its crystallized form and then to obtain the highest market price for the product, might well engage the study of the thoughtful man. Every boor is not cut out for a planter, although many have made miserable attempts. Probably in no part of the tropical world has so much scien- tific study been given to sugar as in the Hawaiian Islands, and the success attained has warranted the time and expense de- voted to it. Cane grows well at all elevations below 2000 feet, but at the higher altitudes it takes longer to bring to maturity. The raising of sugar has been conducive to making landings on precipitous coasts where in former days it was not thought to be practicable to land, and therefore has done much toward developing the whole islands. CHAPT ERY AX THE NEW MANAGER MAKES INNOVATIONS THAT STARTLE THE “SILURIANS.” UR hero methodically and systematically arranged the gangs of men under the different lunas or overseers, each luna knowing the previous evening what his par- ticular line of work was to be on the following day. By this system no time was lost. He also found it economical to carry the men on carts to the fields when working at a dis- tance, rather than have them straggling along to the place of work, arriving more or less tired. He became acquainted with each man in his employ, and they all knew that he was in- terested in them and their families. It paid in other ways than pecuniarily to be acquainted with them. His wife visited the quarters. and encouraged the wives in many little ways in which a whole-hearted woman can well do, and they grew to love her. A little care in regard to the homes of the men returned fourfold the expense put out on them. Instead of the long series of rooms, separated by rough board partitions, w here no privacy could be had and which “could never be made to feel like home, there soon grew up little villages of cheap homes. Soon each of these cottages had its little garden, for which seed was freely provided. Tn after pages we will show a further improvement in these homes, Fruits grow very freely in the tropics where any shelter can be obtained. The papaia, one of the most healthful of the tropical fruits, produces luxuriously, and within one year from planting the seed the gardener may expect a crop, and one which will be continuous for some years to come. When the fruit has reached its growth, and just before ripening, it makes one of the most wholesome vegetables. When ripe, its daily use contributes towards digestion, and is very much sought after by those who know its value. On the sheltered side of house or high stone walls it produces the best results. Chickens and pigs are very fond of it, and it is very fatten- 96 The Master Planter; or ing to the latter, while its seed appears to cause the former to lay eggs abundantly. Its cultivation has been neglected, but on this plantation each laborer had a few trees in his little garden. The Chinese are great consumers of vegetables, and were delighted at having a little patch of garden given them wherein they could raise their greens, melons, cucumbers, squash, etc. Without water it was difficult to do much, but they readily accustomed themselves to the climate and such as proved best were cultivated. There was nothing on the ranch that “Kan- sas” thought beneath him, and that he did not try to improve. It had a fine herd of cattle, but like other places, the singular anomaly existed that milk and butter were scarce on the planter’s table. He speedily rectified this, and in a few months his agents were selling Makawao butter at fifty cents a pound. Also, every family had a quart of milk delivered at its door. This was a small affair compared to the innumerable herd of hand-fed calves he was raising for work cattle and for beef. One of the treats to a visitor was to be taken to the milking paddock and see the breaking in of cows which had never been hand-milked, and the feeding of the calves. The natives made very good dairymen, and after being instructed by “Kansas” as to the manner in which he wished the stock to be cared for, were able to conduct this part of the estate without much direct supervision. When a cow was to be milked, she found it was useless to make any objections. The native would fasten her head securely and then, having pushed her up against a wall, he would thrust his head into her side, and then resistance was useless on her part. In two or three days the most obstreperous animal would submit willingly to be milked. The calves were kept in a field apart from their mothers, and when the cow was milked as much as was con- sidered sufficient the milker would call the name of the calf, and to note how quickly “Pain-Killer,’ “Nigger,” “Puakea,” “Rose,” or whatever its appellation was, would separate itself from the herd of calves and come to the gate, was surprising and instructive. The facility with which calves learned the names given them was always as much of a marvel as the ingenuity of the natives in naming them. These names stuck to them: through life, and a tourist would be amused to note a team of three yoke of cattle denominated, perhaps “Abraham” and “Lincoln” and “Nigger” or “Puakea” and “Rose” and “Mo- Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 97 lasses,” until the combinations could but arouse the risibilities of the observer. Plowing by means of cattle was not to “Kansas’s’” liking, and he was the first on the islands to change the system to horse and mule work, firstly because the latter were so much easier fed, and secondly because the latter were so much more tractable and quicker in the work. Still all these changes took time, and eventually both cattle and horses were dis- pensed with, except in parts where it was most convenient to use horses, He established a nursery shortly after taking charge, and from this was enabled to set out thousands of trees along the miles of stone fences. These soon began to attract attention, some old silurians predicting that he would bring the planta- tion to grief through the amount of money and time spent on tree-planting. The little church, the school house, the neat laborers’ cottages, all kept well whitewashed, presented from a distance a beautiful picture against the green slope whereon the plantation was situated. During his management he took the different overseers into his confidence, and in a nice way inculcated ideas in the mat- ter of handling men. All the laborers were under contract and their work was compulsory to a degree, but he tried to eliminate any show of force and would have his officers lead rather than coerce them. This contract system had arisen under the laws regulating the whaling business, which were no doubt very ap- plicable to the merchant marine, but “Kansas” felt that it was not quite the thing for agricultural service. Theoretically it is right that men should fulfill their agree- ments when they go into them voluntarily, and civilly we compel men to do so under penalty of pecuniary loss or sometimes by in- junctions of court. Still, there was in this system much _ that smacked of slavery, and gave critics of the system a handle for condemning the products of the islands on account of their being produced under it. Sometimes the “shipping” was not wholly volunteer and coercion was used to make men “ship” or renew their articles of agreement. And again the very character of the natives was such that they lived without any foresight, and when difficulties overtook them they did not hesitate to “ship” for a long term to get an advance to assist a relative or friend—and the nos was seldom benefited by the sum of money he ob- tained. CHARMER 5201 TREATING OF THE ONE-TIME CONTRACT LABOR CONDITIONS ON THE SUGAR PLANTATIONS. O our hero the contract which he signed had been, as it was to many others, merely an imaginary line, as we speak of the equator, and which in no way interfered with his liberties. It did, however, bring him within the class dominated “contracted men,” and amongst the free mechanics he was looked down upon; although “Kansas” had not felt the weight of his “contract” in any manner, farther than the possession of a feel- ing that he was legally bound and could not wriggle out from under it if he was so inclined. As a matter of fact it was to him, and to 95/100 of the men, and women too, an imaginary line which bounded his liberties. To those who entered into the contract without compulsion, either moral or physical, it was no mental burden. The native population, knowing they always had the dernier ressort of “shipping,” as signing a contract was called, when they got into difficulties flew to the sugar planter for an “advance” to pay off some pressing debt, or the burial expenses of a relative or friend. This was the planter’s opportunity, and he invariably secured himself by taking an acknowledged obligation that the party would agree to work a certain length of time at a definite rate. The majority of planters treated their men well, and seldom had occasion to quote to them the penalty prescribed by law in cases where there was a refusal to perform duty. Planters, however, are human, and amongst them and their overseers there was a variety. Some parvenu would “ride at every opportunity,” as the boys say, i. e., he would seldom miss the chance of nagging his men and telling them what he would do with them in case they were not on hand in the morning, or if the slightest lapse from the full quota of their duties was dis- cernible. Planters frequently put men in as lunas, or overseers, who had been sailors, and of all the men to “ride,” a man who Life in the Cane Fields of Hawaii. 99 has been before the mast for years and whose head has daily been shampooed with a belaying pin in the hands of a brutal mate, such a one will take the prize. The native is a good-natured, willing and apt laborer, and a man of a very forgiving or forgetting disposition. Rarely one is found who is revengeful or malicious. Constant nagging will even spoil such dispositions. Frequently on plantations, when a man was haled to court and inquiry made into the cause of thé desertion of labor, it developed that the perpetual “driving” of the luna had resulted in the man becoming uninterested in his work, and a temptation offering, he had failed to put in an ap- pearance in the morning. In the first instance the judge would remand the culprit to his work, (costs payable by the delinquent). On a repetition of the offense the penalty would be a fine of five dollars, in either instance the culprit to be imprisoned until such times as he was willing to obey. In a third repetition the fine would be ten dollars. A local resident could not contract for a longer term than five years, but a contract made abroad could be made for ten years, to date from the day of his arrival in the country. On the death of the employer, the contract was cancelled by opera- tion of law, but this was avoided by the employer having a part- ner (real or fictitious), in which case the contract was not af- fected by the death. Many plantations kept stores, and, while making a profit on goods furnished to laborers, managed to keep them in debt, and at the end of one contract a man would be in- duced to “ship” again to get an advance to square the debt. By this process the continuance of the contract would be interminable. Frequently a native would contract to get the means to buy a horse, and the uncontrollable desire to possess a horse and gratify his desire for riding would entail many years of servi- tude. Planters, like the rest of humanity, were not all martinets, and generally speaking were kind to their men. Occasionally a planter would forget himself so far as to ex- pose his innate contemptible disposition by an act or language which brought obloquy on the whole contract system. One, for instance, who was enraged at a Norweigian contract laborer, for some infraction of duty, peremptorily ordered him “to roll a large rock up a hill and down again” until it pleased the planter to order him to desist. This exhibition of power over a man had a far-reaching influ- 100 The Master Planter; or ence in bringing the whole system into disrepute. White men did not like to work on a plantation where they would be even suspected of being “shipped.” Our hero knew that he was de- spised by men inferior to him in education, the only standard he would use in gauging men, and whose private lives were far from being such as should be held up as ideals for the young to follow. Probably had they known his intention in assuming the “yoke of servitude” they might have been more tolerant, but to him it had been a mere incident. He and his employer had been on sociable terms almost from his initiation, and he had often been consulted by him on matters pertaining to cultivation and to the best adapted form of agricultural implements. “Slaves will talk,” is an old Roman saying, and is as true in modern times. The different plantations were canvassed by the mechanics at the meal hours, and the rumors of their respective good or ill-management was discussed. Some of the men had worked on other plantations, and depicted the miserable quarters provided for the laborers, some holding that the work cattle and mules had better quarters. The houses were mere shells, shelters from the sun, wind and rain, put up without the slightest regard for sanitation or privacy. Naturally, men could never be brought to look on them as homes or take an interest in improving their surroundings. Our hero found that a slight outlay for cheap, pretty wall paper was much appreciated. That a little investment in climbing vine seeds soon spoke for itself in the manner in which outhouses were covered. Natives and Chinese alike vied with each other in making pretty arches and ornamentations for their verandas. The native women, proverbially noted for their love of flowers, were easily induced to plant little parterres of phlox, carnations, crocus, tuberose, fuchsias, and others for which the elevation and climate were admirably adapted. He showed them many little tricks in gardening, and their appreciation of such interest in them was shown by their adapting tubs and cans of infinite variety as flower pots wherein little palms and vines garnished their homes within and without. Some natives who had been ac- quainted with the woods brought therefrom peculiar ferns and rare vines which had never been cultivated in the gardens of the rich. To recite the numerous minor and greater improvements which he instituted would take more space than necessary. Many of Life in the Cane Fields of Hawa. 101 them were subjects of comment by his neighbors, and the factors in Honolulu were kept duly posted of “infringements” on what they considered the correct method of managing such an estate. The owner in the East was written to, and many times he was on the point of writing and insisting on a resumption of the former pseudo-economical management, but his wife intervened and re- minded him of his obligation to “Kansas” and of his perfect confidence in him when on Maui. As yet he had not assailed the mill, but he purposed putting in such labor-saving machinery as would be up-to-date in economy as he considered necessary. Finally he wrote the owner of his intentions, and the reasons therefor, and received a prompt reply ‘“‘to touch nothing in the mill, as it pleased the owner to carry that as it had been.” Now our hero felt that he had run against a stone wall, and he must wade through another grinding season and see at least a third of his crop go up the chimney or into the molasses drain, or be lost through lack of complete expressing. It was a very sad state of affairs, and he felt peculiarly handicapped as he could not, by the appliances they had, make a showing of what his ingenuity had done in the way of better cultivation, etc. He itched to be the owner and have unlimited capital to do with as his experience warranted. CHAPTER XXTI OUR HERO HAS A NAME AT LAST—AND AN OLD-TIME FRIEND AP- PEARS WITH ABUNDANT CAPITAL. HE new manager retired to his office evening by evening and planned the work of this estate, and was gradually getting every part of it into producing as it should; and now he must stop building castles in the air and, metaphorically, put a ball and chain on his leg. Wea Al ‘ Ny % Lhe ‘ps i) ie ( Mh, ‘i eb nine f eo VALLE ti TCU Wnt Cee | HAD NS if ay Ne Ariat 3 ay ue fn § Ran ihate vectra aaa es iat uh UN tk vit etal a Ta hi t ae i nnn