4S

'i4

'A

'■^h-lii-ii\imf,i

isejL

George Washington Flowers
Memorial Collection

DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

ESTABLISHED BY THE
FAMILY OF

COLONEL FLOWERS

PERKINS LIBRARY

Uuke University

Kare Dooks

A MEMOIR

cvjivnvaTiox o¥ the \l^•E

AND THE

BEST MODE OF MAKING WINE.

BY JOHN ADLUM.

Vine is as good as life to a man, if it be ilrunk moderately j what i» life
ihen to a man that is without wine > for it was made to make men glaM.
" Wine measurably drank, and in seasoo. briogeib gladness of the heart,
and chcerfulnenof the miod,"

ECCLESIASTICCS, c. 3l, v. 27, 28.

WASHINGTON :

i'RlXTED BY PAVIS AJS'D FORCE, (fRANKLIN'S HEAD,)
PE-NNSYLVANIA AVENUE.

7^

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, to wit :

Be it remembered, That on the first flay of March, in
the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and twenty-
three, and of the Independence of the United States of America
the forty-seventh, John Adlum, of the said District, hath deposit-
ed in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court of tlie Dis-
trict of Columbia, the title of a book, the riglit whereof he claims
as Author and Proprietor, in the words following, to wit :

*' A Memoir on the CulUvalion of the Vine in America, and
the Best Mode of Making TVine. By John Jldlum.

" Wine i? a? good as life ,lo msn, if it he (Itunk inoJeiatelv ; wh»t is life then
to a mau ihat i» wi(bi iit Wine > lor it wst. tiiade lo make men gluii.
" Wine niensurably Jrank, and in Hciison. lirinceih g:Udhe*s to the bearf,
aud oheerfuiness of ihe inioJ " Ki clesiasiicn-, c. Jl, v. 27, 2a.

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States,
entitled " An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing
the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Autliors and Pro-
prietors ol such copies, duiing the times therein menticed ;"
and also to the Act, entitled "An Act supplementary to an Act,
entitled ' An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing
the copies of Majjs, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Pro-
prietors of such copies during the limes therein niL'ntioned,' and
extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving,
and etching, historical and other prints,"

(. -■ In tkstimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand,
' " ■■' and affixed the public seal of my office, the day and year
aforesaid.

EDM. I. LEE,
Clerk of the District Court fur ihe District of Columbia

t

RZK'-
A2-37F^

TIEIETACE.

The follotoing Utile Work has been prepared for
ihe purpose of diffusing some practical and useful
information throughout the country, on the best me-
thod of cultivating the native Grape, arid of making
Wine, The writer has, for a number of years, de-
voted his time and attention to this highly inter-
esting subject ; and, he flatters himself, he will
be enabled, from his long experience, and the nu-
merous experiments he has made, to throw out
some new and additional lights, to those zoho wish
to understand this valuable, but too much neglected,
branch of Agriculture. Its importance and utility
must be obvious to every one who gives the least re-
flection to the subject. Almost every species of Grape
to be found in our widely extended country, is ca-
pable, by proper cultivation, pf yielding a Wine su-
perior to the best Cyder, as a jvholesome beverage^
and equal to most imported Wines. These, however,
from the progress of improvement, and the rapid
increase of population, are diminishing daily, and
will.fnaliy, if not uttendtd to in time, become alto-
gether extinct. It was io prevent this evil, (as far as I
could be instrumental in preventing it,) that Izoished
to uhtainoftht President of the United States, a few
years ago, a lease of a portion of the public ground
in the City, for the purpose of forming a Vineyard,

4

and of cultivating an experimental farm. It ajcts
mi/ intention, had I been succesfuL to procure cut-
tings of the different species of the native Vine, to be
found in the United Stales, to ascertain their growth,
soil, and produce, and to exhibit to the J^l'ation, a netu
source of wealth, zvhich had been too long neglected.
My application was, however, rejected, and I have
been obliged to. prosecute the undertaking myself
without assistance and without patronage, and jhis
I have done to the full extent of my very limited
means. A desire to be usejul to my countrymen,
has animated all my efforts, and given a stimulus
to all my exertions. It is this desire, in connexion
with a wish to satisfy the numerous enquiries that
have been made on (his subject, that I have been led
to undertake the present work, which, I hope, will in-
duce others to follow my example in cultivating the
Vine, and be the means of spreading a knoioledge of
the subject among my fellow-citizens. As I am ad-
vancing in years, and know not when I may be called
hence, I am solicitous that the information I have
acquired should not die with me. It xoill be proper
to slate, that on the cultivation of the Vine, I have
made several extracts from Miller^s Dictionary ; but
with such alterations, as will suit our practice and
climate. From Forsythe, I have also taken and have
subjoined my own practice — and from some valuable
essays, published in the Intelligencer, and supposed to
hi written by Tench Coxe, Esq. of Philadelphia, on

the value of the Vineyard, and crops of Wine in
France, and the manner of making Hint, ^c. in
Sjjain, I have taken the liberty to extract largely^
and have added my own experience for the greater
henefit of those who feel disposed to cultivate the
Grape in this country.

For the method of making Wine, I am indebted to
J\rCulloch of England, fur many valuable hints, and
much ustfut information. He has thrown more light
upon this branch of the subject than any author I have
read, and from him I have taken several extracts^
under the impression that their diffusion would be
highly useful to the citizens of this country, as far
north, as the Grape may be found to grow naturally.
If, however, it should be discovered that the climate
is too cold to enablt the best kind of Grapes to ripen^
a Wine may be manufactured from the unripe or im-
mature Grape, with the addition of sugar, resem-
bling the Champaign, and which, in my opiniotf^
will be found as palatable, and much more whole-
some, than most of wretched stuff, sold under the
names of Champaign and Claret.

JOHN ADLUM.

,:m

THE CULTIVATION OF THE VINE.

TO PROPAGATE VINES FROM SEEDS.

When Vines are to be raised from seeds, they
should be sowed the latter end of February, or
beginning of March, or they may be sowed as late
as the middle of April ; but the earlier the belter,
in rows, in borders, or in beds. Sow the seed thin
in rich, light earth, (well spaded and raked,) about
an inch deep, and if the weather is dry, water
them occasionally, and when the seeds begin to
vegetate, the plants should be watered in the even-
ings in dry weather. When the plants are six
inches high, they should be carefully tied to rods,
leaving only one stem- the first year; the rods
should be nearly as high as the Vines are likely
to grow the first season. When the leaves begin
to drop, pull off all as they turn yellow, so that the
wood may ripen well.

About the latter end of March, the next season,
they may be planted out where they are intend-
ed to remain, and they should be cut off to the

8

third eye, if very strong, but only to the second,
if weak f rubbihg off the lower bud wiili the tiriger
and thunrib. And afterwards, they are to be man-
aged as the cuttings that are planted in the Vine-
yard. But it is to be observfd, that the Vines
propagated from seed, do not all bear fruit, pro-
bably not more than the half of them ; therefore
if they are strong growing Vines, I would advise
to engraft all the barren ouess.

PROPAGATION AND CULTURE OF GRAPES
FOR THE TABLE.

All sorts of Grapes are propagated either from
seeds, layers, or cuttings. The latter is what I
would recommend as being much preferable to
the others ; for the roots of Vines do not grow
strong and woody, as in most sorts of trees, but
are long, slender and pliable ; therefore when they
are taken out of the groutid, they seldom strike
out any tibres from their weak roots, which gene-
rally shrivel and dry ; so that they rather retard
than help the plants in their growth, by prevent-
ing the new fibres from pushing out ; for which
reason 1 had rather plant a good cutting than a
rooted plant, provided it be well chosen, and there
is little danger of its not growing.

But as there are few persons who make choice

i

9

of proper cuttings, or at least that form their cut-
tings rightl)-, so it will be proper to give direc-
tions for this in the tirst place, before 1 proceed.
You should always make choice of such shoots as
are strong, with short joints, and well ripened of
the last year's growth ; which sJiould be pruned
smooth; then you should cut ofl' the -upper part

■ of the shoots, so as to leave the cutting about six-
teen inches long.

When the cuttings are thu^ prepared, if they
are not then planted, they should be' placed with
thfilr lower part in the ground in a dry soil, lay-
ing some litter on their upper parts, to prevent
them from drying : in this situotion they may re-
main until the middle of March, or beginning of
April, when you should take them out, and wash
from them the filth they have contracted ; and if

. you find them very dry, you should let them stand
with their lower parts in the water six or eight
hours,* which will distend their vessels, and dis-
pose them for taking root. Then the ground be-
ing before prepared where the plants are design-
ed to remain (whether against walls or standards,
for it is best not to remove them again) the cut-

' tiiigs should be planted ; but in preparing the

ground, you should consider the nature of the

soil, which, if strong and inclinable to wet, is by

* Mr. M'Mahon in his book on gardening, recommends cow-
dung to be mixed with the water. . J. A>

10

no means proper for Grapes : therefore, where it
so happens, jou should open the trench where the
cuttings are to be planted, which should be filled
with lime, rubbishy brick-bats, or stones, the bet-
ter to drain off the moisture : then raise the bor-
der with fresh light earth about two feet thick, so
that it may be at least a foot above the level of
the ground ; then you should open the holes at
six feet distance from each other, putting one
good strong cutting in each hole, which should be
laid a little sloping, that their top may incline from
the sun, but it must be put in so deep, as that the
uppermost eye may be level with the surface of the
ground ; for when any part of tlie cutting is left
above ground, as is the common method used by
the English gardeners, most of the buds attempt
to shoot ; so that the strength of the cuttings are
divided to nourish so many shoots, which must be
consequently weaker than if only one of them grew;
whereas, on the contrary, by burying the whole
cutting in the ground, the sap is all employed on
one single shoot, which consequently will be
much stronger ; besides the sun and air are apt
to dry that part of the cutting which remains
above ground, and so often prevents their buds
from shooting.

Then, having placed the cuttings in the ground,
you should till up the hole gently, pressing down
the earth with your foot close about it, and raisf

11

a hltle bill just upon the top of the cutting, to
cover the upper eye quite over, which will pre-
vent it from drying ; this being done, there is no-
thing more necessary, but to keep the ground clear
from weeds until the cuttings begin to shoot ; at
which time you should look over them carefully
to rub otr any small shoots, if such are produced,
fastening only the first main shoot to the wall,
stake, &ic. as may be, which should be constatilly
trained up, as it is extended in length, to prevent
its breaking or hanging down : you must continue
to lot)k over these once in about three weeks
during the summer season, constantly rubbing off
all lateral shoots whichare produced, leaving only
the first main shoot; and be sure to keep the
ground constantly clear from weeds, which, if suf-
fered to grow, will exhaust the goodness of the
ioil, and starve the cuttings.

The Michaelmas following,* if your cuttings
have produced strong shoots, you should prune
them down to two eyes, (first rubbing off the low-
er one) whicli by some people may be thought too
short, yet 1 am satislied from several experiments,
to be the best method. The reason for advising
the pruning, at this season, rather than deferring till
spring is, because tlie te.'ider paits of those youn^^

* Miihaejiiias is on tlie ^9th of Spplcjiibor. In tliis climate I
tliir.k it would be best to dtlcr priiDiJ ;; a week or ifn days lon-
ger. /. A.

12

shoots, if left on, are subject to decay in winter,
or they are apt to grow late in the year, so the
tops of their shoots are tender, and the early frosts
will pinch them, and then they frequently are kill-
ed down a considerable length, which weakens
their roots ;* but if they are cut off early in au-
tumn, the wounds will heal over before the bad
weather, and thereby the roots will be greatly
strengthened.

In the spring, after the cold weather is past, you
must gently dig up the borders to loosen the earth ;
but you must be very careful in doing this, not to
injure the roots of the Vines; you should also
raise the earth up to the stems of the plants, so as
to cover the old wood, but not so deep as to cover
either of the eyes of the last year's wood. After
this they will require no further care until they
begin to shoot, when you should look over them
carefully, to rub off all weak, dangling shoots,
leaving no more than two, which are produced
from the eyes of last year's wood, which should
be fastened to the wall, stake, &c. and from this
time until the Vines have done shooting, you
should look them over once in three weeks or a
month, to rub off all the lateral shoots as they are
produced, and to fasten up the main shoots as
they are extended in length, which must not be

* Mr. Forsythe is opposed to pruning in Autumn, and recom-
mends the month of February. J. A.

13

shortened before the middle or latter end of July/
when it will be proper to nip off their tops, which
will strengthen the lower eyes ; and during the
summer season, you must constantly keep the
ground clear from weeds, nor should you permit
any sorts of plants to grow near the Vines, which
would not only rob them of nourishment, but shade
the lower part of the shoots, and thereby prevent
their ripening, which will not only cause the
wood to be spongy and luxuriant, but render it
less fruitful.

As soon as the leaves begin to drop in the au-
tunin, you should prune these young Vines again,
leaving three buds to each of .the shoots (always
bearing in mind to rub off the lower one) provid-
ed they are strong, otherwise it is better to shorten
them down to two eyes if they are good ; for it is
a very wrong practice to leave much wood upon
young Vines, or to leave their shoots too long,
which greatly weakens the roots ; then you should
fasten them up to the wall, stakes, &ic. spreadmg
them out horizontally each way, that there may
be room to train the new shoots the following
summer, and in the spring dig the borders as be-
fore.

* In our climate it will not answer to shorten the Vines in
July, Hs it will cause them to throw out new shoots from the eyes
that are to bear fruit the next year. It is therefore best to let
them grow to full length. J. A.

14

The third season you must go over the Vines
again as soon as they begin to shoot, to rub otf all
danglers as before, and trairi their strong shoots in
their proper places, which this year may be sup-
posed to be two from each shoot of the last year's
wood ; but if they attempt to produce tw^o shoots
from one eye, the weakest of them must be rub-
bed off,* for there should never be more than one
allowed to come out of each eye. If any of them
produce fruit, as many times they will the third
year, you should not stop them so soon as is gene-
rally practised upon the bearing shoots of the old
Vines, but permit them to shoot forward till a
month after mid-summer, at which time you may
pinch off the tops of the shoots ; for if they were
done too soon, it would spoil the buds for next
year's wood, which in young Vines must be more
carefully preserved than on older plants, because
there are no other shoots to be laid in for a sup-
ply of wood, as is commonly practised on old
Vines.

During the summer, you must constantly go over
your Vines, and displace all weak lateral shoots
as they are produced, and carefully keep the
ground clear from weeds, as was before directed,
that the shoots may ripen well ; which is a mate-
rial thing to be observed in most sorts of fruit trees,

* There is frequently two shoots from one bud, the lower one
which is always the weakest, should be rubbed oflf. J. A.

15

but especially Vines, which seldom produce any
fruit from immature branches. These things be-
ing duly observed, are all that is necessary in the
management of young Vine's ; 1 shall therefore
proceed to lay down rub s for the government of
grown Vines, which 1 shall do as briefly as possible:
and,

First. Vines rarely produce any bearing shoots
from wood that is more ihau a year old, therefore
great care should be taken to have such wood in
every part of the Vine ; for the fruit is always
produced from the shoots of the same year, which
come out from the buds of the last year's wood.
The method commonly practised is, to shorten
the branrhes of the last year's growth, down to
three or four eyes, at the time of pruning ; though
there are some persons who leave these shoots
much longer, and aflirm b} this practice the}^ ob-
tain a greater quantity of fruit; but however this
may be, it is a very wrong practice, since it is im-
poi-sible that one shoot can nourish forty or fifty
bunches of Grapes, so well as it can ten or twelve ;
so that what is gotten in number, is lost in their
magnitude ; besides the greater quantity of fruit
there is left on the Vines, the later they are ripen-
ed, and their juice is not so rich ; and this is well
known in the Wine countries, where there are
laws enacted to direct the number and length of
shoots that are to be left upon each Vine, lest by

lb

over bearing therri, they not only exhaust and
weaken the roots, but thereby render the juice
weak, and so destroy the reputation of the Wine.

Wherefore, the best nnethod is to shorten the
bearing slioots to about four eyes in length, be-
cause the lowermost seldom is good, and three
buds are sufficient, for each of these will produce
a shoot, which generally has two or three bunches
of Grapes ; so that from each of those shoots there
may be expected from six to eight bunches, which
is a sufficient quantity. These shoots rhust be
laid about eighteen inches asunder, for if they
are closer, when the side shoots are produced,
there will not be room enough to train them against
the trellis, <Sic. which should always be provided for;
and as their leaves are very large, the branches
should be left at aproportionable distance from each
other, that they may not croud or shade the fruit.

At the winter pruning of your Vines, yon should
always observe to make the cut just above the eye,
sloping it backward from it, that if it should bleed,
the sap might not flow on the bud, and where there
is an opportunity of cutting down some young
shoots, to two eyes, in order to produce vigorous
shoots for next year's bearing, it should always
be done, because in stoppingof those shoots which
have fruit upon them, as soon as the Grapes are
formed, which is frequently practised, it often
spoils the eyes, for producing bearing branches

17

the following year, and this reserving of new wood
is what the Vignerons abroad always practice in
their Vineyards. The best season for pruning of
Vines is the end of October, for the reasons before
laid down.*

In April, or beginning of May, when the Vines
begin to shoot, you must carefully look them over,
rubbing off all the snoall buds which may come
from the old wood, which only produce weak dang-
ling branches ; as also when two shoots are produced
from the same bud, the weakest of them should be
displaced, which vr»ll cause the others to be stron-
ger ; and the sooner this is done, the better it is
for the Vines.

In the middle of May, you must go over them
again, rubbing ofFall the dangling shoots asbefore,
and at the same time, you must fasten up all the
strong branches ; for if the shoots hang down, their
leaves will be turned with their upper surfaces
the wrong way, and when the shoots are after-
wards trained upright, they will have their under
surface upwards ; and until the leaves are turned
again, and have taken their right position, the fruit
will not thrive : so that the not observing this man-
agement, will cause the Grapes to be a fortnight
or three weeks later before they ripen ; besides
they will be shaded by the closeness of the bran-
ches, will greatly retard their growth; therefore

* Forsythe recommends Feb'y as the best season for pruning.
2*

18

•
during the growing season, you should constantly
look over the Vines, displacing all dangling bran-
ches, and wild wood, and fasten up the other
shoots regularly, as they are extended in length;
and towards the middle of June, you should stop
the bearing branches,^ which will strengthen
the fruit, provided you always leave three eyes
above the bunches ; for if you stop thenn too soon,
it will injure the fruit, by taking away that part
of the branch which is necessary to attract the
nourishment to the fruit, as also to perspire off the
crudities of the sap, which is not proper for the
fruit to receive.

But although I recommend the stopping those
shoots which have fruit at this season, yet this is
not to be practised upon those which are intended
for bearing next year, for those must not be stop-
ped before the middle of July,! lest by stopping
them too soon, you cause the eyes to shoot out
strong, lateral branches, whereby they will be
greatly injured.

Daring the summer season, you should be care-
ful to rub otF all dangling branches, and train up
the shoots regularly, to a trellis or wall as before,
which will greatly accellerate the growth of the
fruit, and also admit the sun and air to them, which

* In this climate these bearing Vines ought not to be stopt until
July. J. A.

t As 1 observed before, the Vines ought not to be stopped, but
suffered to grow at full length. J- A.

19

is necessary to ripen and give the fruit a rich flavour ^
but you must never flivest the branches of tl»eir
leaves, as in the practice of some persons : for al-
though the admitting of the sun must be necessary
to ripen them, yet if they are too much o^J)o^;ed
thereto, their skins will be tough, and it will retard
their ripening ; besides, the leaves being abso-
lutely necessary to nourish the fruit, by taking
them off, the fruit is starved^ and seldom comes to
any size, as I have several times observed ; there-
fore, a great regard should be had to the summer
management of the Vines, where persons are de-
sirous to have theirfruitexcelientandduly ripened.
When the fruit is all gathered, you should prune
the Vines, whereby the litter of their leaves will
be entirely removed at once, and their fruit will
be forwarder the succeeding year.* -

ON GRAFTING VINES.

At (he pruuing season, make choice of cutting^
for grafts or scions from the best bearing branches

* Vines may b? very easily propagated from tiie young greeu
shoots of the season, as soon as tiiey are long enough to lay down ;
^ig a hole between the rows and lay in ihe young shoots, leaving a
few inches of the top above ground fastening it down with a hooked
peg or some other thing to keep it in its place, then fill the hole
with rich light earth, and water it well; that if every other day
for a week, when it will have taken root; and as it grows it must be
tied to a slake to keep it from breaking, iin-l the next season it
may be pruned and removed at yout pleasure. J. A.

20

of the sorts intended to be propagated. In general
the bottom part of the last year's shoot is to be
preferred ; but in well ripened vigorous wood, any
part of the shoot will answer, provided it be not
too long jointed. These cuttings should be pre-
served in pots filled with light sandy earth, till the
grafting season.

Vines growing in the open air should be graft-
ed from the middle of March to the first of April.
In general they should be grafted about three
weeks before they begin to break into bud.

Upon small stocks, not more than an inch di-
ameter, cleft grafting is most proper : but upon lar-
ger stocks, whip grafting is to be preferred. In
both methods care should be taken in fitting the
stock and scion together, and the operation should
be performed with great exactness. Fasteti them
together with bass-matting, and cover them with
elay the usual way.

Though the scion will sometimes begin to push
in a few weeks, yet it will frequently remain dor-
mant two or three months ; during this period the
stock must be striped of all its shoots, as soon as
they appear; and to preserve the scion in a vege-
tative slatf, the clay must be kept moderately \
moisted, by wrapping wet moss around it, a. id by
keepitig the moss constantly sprinkled with water.

"When the scion has made shoots five or six j
inches long, the clay and bandage should be care-
fully taken off.

21

But the most eligil>le method of grafting, is b_y
approach, hi which case it is necessary, to have
the plant intended to be propagated, in a pot.
Strong plants that have been two or three years in
pots, are to be preferred ; bbt plants from the nur-
sery may be potted, and grafted in the same sea-
ion if brougiit into a hot house or vinery.

Fine Grapes and good wood may be obtained in
the first season, by any of these methods, but par-
ticularly by the last ; in which it is obvious that the
graft has a double support^ namely, from the stock,
and from the plant in the pot.

In grafting by approach, the clay and bandage
should remain two or three months after the graft
has formed an union ; for if it be taken off^ooner,
the graft will be very liable to spring from the
stock. The pot should be plentifully supplied
with water till the month of August, when the graft
should be separated from the plant in the pot.
Two or three inches of the wood below the bottom
of the graft may be left, but should be taken clean
off at the next year's winter pruning.

The strongest growing Vines are most proper
for stocks, and plants raised from seeds of very
strong growing Vines, are to be preferred to plants
raised either from layers or cuttings for this pur-
pose. If the produce of the seed should even de-
generate, they will still be better for stalks, be-
cause they will, on that account, grow with greater
ifigour.

22

The most important advantages of grafting are,
first : That if you have bad kind of Vines planted,
instead of stubbing them up, and planting others,
by which several years will elapse, before yea can
have their places hlled with bearing Vines ; by
grafting, the nature of the Vines are changed im-
mediately ; for good grapes may be obtained
from the same year's graft, which will grow from
fifteen to thirty feet in length, in the tirst summer.
Secondly. Where you have not room for a great
▼ariety, they may be procured by grafting differ-
ent kinds on the same plant.

But the principal advantage of grafting, is the
improvement of the various kinds, and particularly
the small ones, which generally make weak wood.
This may be done by grafting the weak and deli-
cate growing Vines, upon the stocks of those which
are more robust and vigorous. Thus the small
blue Frontinac engrafted on the Syrian Vine, prd-
buces well sized handsome bunches, with berries
almost as large as those of the black Hamburgh.*

* I would advise country gentlemen to engraft the hardiest
liinHs of foreign grapes as well as the best native ones on the
wild native stock. For there are very few situations in the coun-
try, soutli of 40" of latitude, that'does not produce wild vines; there
is Scarcely a mile square in any part of the country, where they
are not to be found ; and where they grow in the fields or gar-
dens, or near the house, the experiment can be easily tried : and
if it should succeed, it will be a great acquisition to the I able atl
least, if not for making wine.

23

. ON PLANTING VINEYARDS.

The first great thing to be considered in plant-
ing a Vineyard, is the choice of soil and situation,
which, if not rightly chosen, there will be but lit-
tle hopes of success, for upon this the whole affair
greatly depends. The best soil for a Vineyard,
is such whose surface is a light sandy loam, and
not above a foot and a half or two feet deep, above
the gravel or rock, either of which bottoms are
equally good for Vines ; but if the soil is deep,
and the bottom either a clay or strong loam, it is
not so proper for this purpose ; for although the
Vines may shoot vigorously, and produce a great
quanty of Grapes, yet they will be later ripe, ful-
ler of moisture, and so consequently their juice
not mature, nor well digested, but will abound
with crudity ; which in fermenting, will render
the Wine sour and ill tasted, which is the common
complaint of those who have made Wine in Eng-
land.*

*I am induced to think that these observations do not apply
10 this country, for our summers are mucli warmer here than in
England or France, and vegetation much more rapid. Far in''
Stance, according to Mrs. Legeuax's table, (see M'Mahon's Gar-
dener.) 'The Munier Grape, commonly called the Miller Bur-
gundy, or Blue English Grape, does not ripen inFrance upon an
jl averac;e, earlier tiian the first of October, and at his Vineyard
near Spring Mill, a few miles from Philadelphia, th<! average is
the first 01 JscptemDer iu ripening. 1 have had them for six
years in this district, and the latest they were ripening, was the

24

Nor IS a very rich, light, deep soil, proper for
this purpose ; because the roots of these Vines are
enticed down too deep to recieve the influence of
the sun and air, and hereby will take much crude
nourishment, whereby the fruit will be rendered
less valuable, and be later ripe, which is of ill con-
sequence to those fruits which are known to im-
bibe a great share of their nourishment from the
air, which if replete with moisture, must necessari-
ly contribute greatly to render the juices less per-
fect; therefore, great attention should be had to
the nature of the soil, upon which they are planted.

The next thing necessary to be considered, is

i5th of August ; this last year, 1822, they ripened on the 4th of
the month. So that we have a^least one month's advantage, and
may let our Grapes hang on the Vines until they begin to shrivel,
and consequently, they will lose a great proportion of their aque-
ous particles. I made a Wine of the Schuylkill Muscadell,
(near Havre-de-Grace, where the Vines grow on a rich loam
well manured, and with a clay bottom ;) which was pronounced
equal to the best Wine of France. And this was not compli-
mentary, but a fact ; for it was put upon the table with one of the
best Wii.es that France produces; and no one could tell which
was the French, or which was American; neither could they
perceive any difference. It is but proper to reniark, that I never
biade quite such good Wine since, owing to some accidental and
unaccountable circumstance, in the making of the first. But I
have always made a. decent Wine, as good, if not better, than
most imported Wine, the high priced ones excepted. But no doubt
such M ine maybe made of the same Grape ^gain, in the hands
of askilljul Vigneron or Wine cooper. J. A.

25

the situation of the place, which if possible, should
be on the north side of a river, ii')on an elevation
inclining to the south, witha suiaH gradual descent,
thatthe nnoisture may the better drain ofT; but if
the ground slopes too much, it is by no means pro-
per for this purpose ; but if, at a distance from
this place, there are larger hills, which defend it
from the north and north-west winds, it will be of
great service, because hereby the sun's rays will
be reflected with greater force, and the cold winds
being kept off. will render the situation very warm.
The country should be open and hilly, for if
there, are many trees, or low and boggy, the air
will constantly be tilled with moist particles, Oc-
casioned by the plentiful perspiration from the
trees, or the exhalations from the adjoining marsh-
es, vyhereby the fruit will be greatly prejudiced.
The Vir.eyards should always be open to the east,
that the morning sun may come on them, to dry
off the moisture of the night early, which by lying
too long upon the Vines, greatly retard the ripen-
ing of the fruit, and renders it crude and ill tasted.
And since the fruit of the Vines is seldom or rarely
injured by easterly winds, there willb^ no reason
to apprehend any danger from such a situation,
the north and north-west winds being the most in-
jurious. So that if posbjble, they ought to be shel-
tered therefrom.*

* I have fouiJtl the top of the bill where there is a free circu-
3

26

Having made choice of soil and situation pro-
per for this purpose, the next thing is to prepare
it for planting. In doing of which the following
method should be observed : In the spring it should
be ploughed as deep as the surface will admit,
turning the sward into the bottom of the furrow ;
after this, it should be well harrowed, to break
the clods, and cleanse it from the roots of noxious
weeds, and it must be often ploughed, and harrow-
ed for at least one year, to render the surface
light ; and hereby it will be rendered fertile, by
imbibing the nitrous particles of the air, (especial-
ly if it be long exposed thereto, before it is plant-
ed ;) then in March, the ground should be well
ploughed again, and after having made the sur-
face pretty even, the rows should be marked out
from south-east to north-west, at the distance of
twelve feet from each other ; and these rows
should be crossed again at five or six feet distance,
which will mark out the exact places where each
plant should be placed ; so that the Vines will be

ation of air, the best for the more delicate foreign Grapes ; the
Miller Burgundy and White Sweet Water, ripen well with rae
on the top of the hill near my house, while the same Grapes
growing within less than twenty perches on the side hill, crack
and burst, owing, as I suppose, from the heat of the sun and
earth : even on the top of the hill, all within between two and
three feet of the ground, are subject to the like malady, while
those at four feet and upwards from the ground, ripen well
and come to the greatest perfection. J. A.

27

twelve feet row from row, and five or six feet
asunder in the rows, nearer than which, they ought
never to be planted. And herein most people
who have planted Vineyards have greatly erred,
some having allowed not more than five feet from
row to row, and the plants but three feet asunder
in the rows ; and others, who think they have been
full liberal in this article, have only planted their •
Vines at six feet distance every way ; but neither
of these havt allowed a proper distance to them,
as I shall show : for in the first place, where the
rows are placed too close, there will not be room
for the sun and air to pass in between them to dry
up the moisture, which being detained amongst the
Vines, must produce very ill effects : and,.secondly,
where the Vines are placed in exact squares, so
near together as six feet, there can be no room for
the currdYit air to pass between them, when their
branches are extended on each side, and so, conse-
quently, the damps will be entangled and detained
amongst the Vines, to the great prejudice of the
fruit; and all proper care should be taken to re-
move every thing that may obstruct the drying up
of the damps which arise from the ground.

The skilful Vignerons abroad, are also sensible
how much it contributes to, the goodness of their
Vines, to allow a large space between the rows,
and therefore, where the quality of the AVineiti
more rcgard^jd than the quantity, there they never

28

plant tlicir Vines at less than ten feet row from
row; but it is betterlo allow tw/5lve< It was an
observation of Belloniu*, two hundred years since,
tliat in those islands of the Archipelago, where the
rows of the Vines were placed at a great distance,
the Wine was much preferable to those which
were close planted ; and this he positively affirnw
to be»the case in most countries where he has tra-
velled. Indeed we need not have recourse to an-
tiquity for the certainty of such facts,"when we are
daily convinced of this truth in all close planta-
tions of any kind of fruit, where it is constantly
observed, that the fruits in such places are never
eo well coloured, so early ripe, nor so well fla-
voured, as those produced on trees, where the air
can freely circulate about them, and the rays of
the sun have free access to the branches; where-
by the juices are better prepared before they en-
ter the fruit.

■ Having thus considered the "distance which is
necessary to be allowed to these plants, we come
next to the planting : but in this, the proper sorts
of Grapes should be judiciously chosen ; and in
this particular, we generally err most egregrious-
ly; generally planting the sweetest and best Grapes
for eating, which is contrary to the practice of
Vignerons abroad, who always observe that such
Grapes never make good Wine ; and therefore,
from experience, make choice of those sorts of

29

Grapes, whose juice after fermenting, affords a no-
ble and rich liquor; which Grapes are almost al-
ways observed to, be austere, and by no means
palatable. This is also agreeable to the constant
practice of our Cider-makers, who always observe,
that the best eating apples, make but poor Cider ;
whereas the more rough and austere sorts, after
being pressed and fermented, afford a strong vine-
ous liquor. And 1 believe it will be found true ia
all fruits, that where the natural heat of the sun
ripens and prepares their juices, so as to render
them palatable, whatever degree of heat these
juices have more, either from fermentation, or
from any other cause, will render the Vine weaker
and less spirituous. Of this we have many in-
stances in fruits; for if we transplant any of our
Summer or Autumn fruits, which ripen perfectly
in England, without the assistance of art, into a
climate a few degrees warmer, these fruits will
become mealy and insipid : so, likewise, if we
bake or stew any of those fruits, they will be good
for little, losing all their spirit and flavour by
the additional heat of the tire ; and such fruits
by no means eatable raw, are hereby rendered
exquisite, which, if transplanted into a warmer
climate, have, by the additional heat of the sun,
been also altered, so as to exceed the most deli-
cious of our fruit in this country.

From whence, it is plain, that those Grapes
which are most agreeable to the palate for eating,
3*

30

are not proper for wine ; in making of which, their
juices must undergo a strong fermentation ; there-
fore, since we only propagate the most palatable
Grapes for eating, and neglect the other sorts, be-
fore we plant Vineyards, we should take care to
to be provided with proper sorts." Of which I
have five kinds, of each of which 1 have made good
Wine, viz. The Bland Madeira, Sckuylkill Mus-
eadell, Constantia, Tokay, and the Worthington.

Of the Bland Madeira, I have made a Wine
equal to most White Wines, the best Madeira on-
ly excepted ; and of the Schuylkill Muscadell, I
have made a Wine, pronounced by good judges,
to be " Worthy the best Vineyards of France."

Some foreign Vignerons plant three or four kinds
of Vines in the same Vineyard, and at the time of
vintage, mix them all together ; which renders
the Wine less delicate, than in such places where
they have only one sort of Grape. And here I
would caution every one against mixing the juice
of several Grapes together, which will cause the
Wine to ferment at different times, and in differ-
ent manners.

But I would advise every person who may have,
or plant a Vineyard, to make the Wine of every
kind of Grape separately, for after it has gone
through its first fermentations, you can then
discover, by mixing small quantities in glasses,
whether they will be improved or not, and act ac-
cordingly. But if you happen to make Wine very

31

good, be cautious of mixing it with any Wine of an
inferior kind, but let it be sacred. You ma) some-
times mix your inferior Wines to a decided advan-
tage.

The cuttings being provided (for I would always
prefer them to layers or rooted plants) from the
middle of March, to the first week in April, as the
best season for planting, though i have planted
them as late as the first week in May, when it
will be proper to put the lower ends of the cuttings
in water about five or six inches, setting them up-
right for six or eight hours before they are used ;
then at the centre of every cross mark, already
made by a litic, to the distance the Vines are
designed, should be made a liole with a spade, or
other instrument, about a foot or fifteen inches
deep, into each of which should be put one strong
cutting, placing it a little sloping : then the hole
should be filled up with rich earth, pressing it
gently with the feet to the cutting, and raismg a
littl< hill to each, about three inches, so as just to
eover the upper eye or bud, which will prevent
the wind and sun from drying any part of the cut-
ting, and this upper c^^c will only shoot, the un-
der ones most of them will push out roots so that
this shoot will be very strong and vigorous.

After they are thus planted, they will require
no oilier care until ihvy shoot, except to keep
the ground clear from weeds, which should b6

32

constantly observed ; but as the distances between
the rows are very great, so the ground between
them may be sowed or planted with any kind of
esculent plants, which do not grow tall, provided
there is a proper distance left from the Vines, and
care taken that the Vines are not injured by the
crops, or in the gathering, and carrying them off
the ground ; and this husbandry may be continued
two or three years, till the Vines come to bear-
ing ; after which lime there should he no sort of
crop put between them in summer, because the clean-
er the ground is kept betzoeen the Vines Jrom weeds
and plants, the more theGrapes will thrive. When
the cuttings begin to shoot, there should be a
stake four or five feet long stuck down by each,
(but it will be best to do that when the cuttings
are planted) to which the shoot should be fasten-
ed, to prevent their breaking or laying on the
ground : so that as the shoots advance, the fasten-
ing should be renewed, and all small lateral shoots
(if any such are produced) should be constantly
displaced, and the ground between the Vines al-
ways kept clean. This is the whole management
which is required the first summer.

But at Michaelmas,* when the Vines are done
shooting, they should be pruned ; for if they are

♦ Michaelmas is the 29th of September. In this climate about
th« lOlb o! October would be better.

33

left unpruned until Spring, their shoots being ten-
der (cirpecially towards the upper parts) will be
in danger of s'lflering if the winter should prove
severe.

This pruning, after rubbing off the lower eye,
is to cut (\owH the shoot to two eyes ; and if after
this is done, the earth be drawn up in a hill about
each plant, it will be a greater defence against the
frost.

At the beginning of March, the ground between
the Vines should be well dug, to loosen it, and
render it clean ; but you must be careful not to
dig deep too close to the Vines, lest thereby their
roots should be cut or bruised, and at the same
time the earth should be again laid up in a hill to
each plant ; but there must be care taken not to
bury the two young eyes of the former year's
shoot, which were left to produce new wood.

At the beginning of May, when the Vines are
shooting, there should be two stakes fixed down
to the side of each plant, about five or six feet
high, above the ground ; to these the two shoots
(if so many are produced) should be fastened, and
all the small trailing or lateral >hoots should be
constantly displaced, that the other shoots may
be stronger, and the ground should also be kept
ver; clear of weeds as before.

The Autumn following, these Vines should be
pruned again, in the following manner : those

34

which have produced two strong shoots of equal
vigour, must be cut down to three or four eyes
each, bearing in mind to rub off the lower one ;
but in such as have a strong shoot and a weak
one, the strong one must be shortened to three or
four eyes, and the weak one to two ; and such
Vines as have produced but one strong shoot,
should be shortened down to three eyes, also in
order to obtain wood against the succeeding year.

In the Spring, about the beginning of March,
the ground between the Vines should again be
dug, as before, and two stakes should be placed
down by each of the Vines that have two shoots,
at sach distance on each side of the plant as the
shoots will admit to be fastened thereto, and the
shoots should be drawn out on each side of the
stakes, so as to make an angle of about forty-five
degrees with the stem ; but by no means should
they be bent down horizontally, as is by some
practised, for the branches lying too near the
earth, are generally injured by the damps which
arise from thence, but especially when they have
fruit, which is never so well tasted, nor so early
ripe upon those branches, as when they are a lit-
tle more elevated.

In May, when the Vines begin to shoot, they
must . be attentively looked over, and all weak
dangling shoots, carefully rubbed off as they
are produced, and those shoots which are pro*

35

duced from strong eyes, should he fastened to
the stakes, to prevent their being broken off bjr
the wind.

This management should he repeated at least
every three wf-eks, from the beginning of May,
to the end of July : by which means the shoots
which are trained up for the succeeding year,
will not only be stronger, but also better ripened
and prepared for bearing, because they will have
the advantage of the sun and'air, which is abso-
lutely necessary to prepare their juices ; whereas,
if they are croud^d by a number of small, dang-
ling, weak branches, they willBhade and exclude
the rays of the sun from the other shoots ; and so
by detaining the moisture a longer time amongst
the branches, occasion the vessels of the young
wood to be of larger dimensions ; and hereby the
crude juice finds an easy passage through them,
I 20 that the shoots in Autumn seem to be mostly
pith, and are of a greenish, immature nature, and
wherever this is observed, it is a sure sign of the
bad quality of the Vines. The soil also should
constantly be kept clean, because if there are any
vegetables (either weeds or plants of other kinds)
growmg between the Vines, it will detain the
dews longer, and by their perspiration, occasion
a greater moisture than would be, if the ground
were entirely clear ; so that those who plant

36

other things between their rows of Vines, are
guilt}' of a great error.

In Autumn, the Vines should be pruned, which •
season I approve of raiher than Spring, (for
reasons before given) and this being the third I
year from planting, the Vines will now be strong
enough to produce fruit, therefore they must be I
pruned accordingly. ]Sow, suppose the two shoots j
of the former }ear \Yhich were shortened to three J
eyes, have each of them produced two strong
branches the summer past, then the uppermost of
these shoots should be shortened down to three or
four* good eye?, (never including the lower eye)
and the lower-shoots should be shortened down to
two good e) es each, these being designed to pro-
duce vigorous shoots for the succeedingyear, and
the former are designed to bear fruit ; but where
the Vines are weak, and have not produced more
than two or three shoots at the last season, there m
should be but one of them left, with three eyes
forbearing; the other must be shortened down
to two, or if weak, one good eye, in order to ob-
tain strong shoots for the following summer ; for
there is nothing more injurious to Vines, than the
leaving two much wood upon them, especially

* I leave from eight to fifteen ej-es upon verj' vigorous shoots.
Mr. Forsythe, when Grapes are cultivated for the table, recom-
mends fron. tjfipen to thirty eyeS, from which you may bave from
thirty to Eixty or seventy bunches of GrapeE.

37

while they are young ; or the overbearing them,
which will weaken them so much, as not to be
recovered again to a good state, for several years,
though they should be managed with all possible
skill.

In March, the ground between the Vines should

be well dug, as before, observing not to injure the

roots by digging too deep near them ; but where

there are small horizontal roots, produced on, or

near the surface of the ground, they should be

pruned off close to the places where they were

produced ; those being what the Vignerons call

day roots, and are by no means necessary to be

left on ; and after having dug the ground, the

stakes should be placed in the following manner:

on each side of the Vine, should be a stake put

in, at about sixteen inches from the foot, to which

the two branches which were pruned to three or

four eyes, each for bearing, should be fastened,

(observing, as before directed, not to draw them

down too horizontally) then another taller stake

should be placed near the root of the Vine to

which the two shoots that were pruned down to

two eyes, should be fastened, provided they are

long enough for that purpose ; but, if not, when

their eyes begin to shoot, these must be trained

upright to the stakes, to prevent their trailing on

the ground, hanging over the fruit branches, or

being broken by the wind.

4

38

In May, the Vines should be carefully looked
over again, at which time all the weak lateral
branched should be rubbed off as they are pro-
duced ; and those shoots which show fruit, must
be fastened with bass to the stakes to prevent their
being broken, until they are extended three joints
bejond the fruit, when they should be stopped ;
but the shoots which are designed for bearing the
following season, should be trained upright to the
middle stake, by which method the fruit branches
will not shade those middle shoots, nor will the
middle shoots shade the fruit, so (bat each will
enjoy the benefit of the sun and air.

" This method should be repeated every fortnight
or three weeks, from the middle of May to the mid-
dle of July, which will always keep the shoots in
their right position, whereby the leaves will not be
inverted, which greatly retards the growth of the
fruit; and by keeping the Vines constantly clear of
horizontal shoots, the fruit will not be crowded with
too many leaves, and not be too much shaded, but
willconstantly havetheadvantage of the sun and air
equally, which is of great consequence ; for where
the fruit is covered with those dangling shoots in
the spring, and is afterwards exposed to the air,
either by divesting it of th6 leaves, or displacing
the branches entirely, as is often practised, the
fruit will become hard and remain at a perfect
stand for three weeks, and sometimes will never'

39

advance afterwards, as I have several times ob-
served ; therefore there cannot be too much care
taken to keep it constantly in a kindly state
of. growth, as the Vignerons abroad well know,
though it is little regarded by the generality of
gardeners, who, when they suffer by this neglect,
immediately complain of the climate, or the un-
towardness of the season, which is too often a co-
ver for neglects of this nature. And here I can-
not help taking notice of the absurd practice of
those who pull off the leaves from their Vines,
which are placed near the fruit, in order to let in
the rays of the sun to ripen them ; not considering
how much they expose their fruit to the dews,
which fall plentifully in autumn, and which being
imbibed by the fruit, greatly retard it ; besides, no
fruit will ripen so well when entirely exposed to
the sun, as when moderately screened with leaves,
which are absolutely necessary to prepare the
juices before they enter the fruit, the gross parts of
which are perspired by the leaves, the fruit must
either be deprived of nourishment, or else some
of the gross particles will enter with the more re-
fined parts of the juice, and thereby render the
fruit worse than it otherwise would be, were the
leaves permitted to remain on the branches ; for
if the week danglingshoots areconstantly displaced
as they are produced, the fruit will not b«: too
much shaded by the leaves that are upon the bear-
ing branches.

40

When the fruit is ripe, if the stalks of the bunct-
es are cut half through a fortnight before they are
gathered, it will cause the juice to be much bet-
ter, because there will not be near so great a
«[uantity of nourishment enter the fruit, whereby
»he watery particles wiil have time to evaporate,
and the juice w^Hl be better digested. This is
practised by some of the most curious Vignerons
in the south of France, where they make excel-
lent Wine. But after the fruit is cut, it is hung
up in a dry room upon strings, ro that the bunch-
es do not touch each other, for a month before
they are pressed ; it will also add greatly to the
strength of the Wine, because in that time a great
quantity of the watery parts of the juices will
evaporate. This is a constant practice with some
persons who inhabit the Tyrolese, on the borders
of Italy, where there is a most delicious rich Wine
made, as has been attested by Doctor Burnet in his
travels ; and I have heard the same from several
gentlemen who have travelled that road since. But
with all the care that can possibly be taken, either
in the culture of the Vines, or in making Wine, it
will not be near so good while the Vineyard is
young, as it will be after it has been planted ten
or twelve years ; and it will be constantJj men(^
ing until it is fifty years old, as has been attested
by several curious persons abroad, as also by the
most skilful Wine-coopers at home, who can tell

41

the produce of a young Vineyard from that of ao
old one, after it is brought to England, by the co-
lour of the Wine. This difference is very easily
accounted for, from the different structure of the
vessels of the plants ; those of the young Vines
being larger, and of a looser texture, easily admit
a larger quantity of gross nourishment to pass
through them ; whereas those of the old Vines,
which are more woody, are more closely constrict-
ed, and thereby the juice is better strained in
passing through them, which must constantly ren-
der it much better, though the Grapes from a
young Vineyard will be much larger, and afford a
greater quantity of juice, so that people should not
be discouraged if their Wines at first are not so
good as they could wish, since afterwards, when
the Vineyard is a few years older, the Wine may
answer their expectation.*

The Vineyard being now arrived at a bearing
state, should be treated after the following mau-

* I wouk) advise to let the Grapes hang on the Vines until they
begin to shrivel, or show a disposition to drop off. Our clin>atc
being, I believe, much drier than that of Europe, and our Grape?
ripening early, by leaving them on the Vines, a greater part of
the watery particles will evaporate : and I am inclined to tliiiik
that our Vineyards will come to perfection sooner than in that
country. I am satisSed that I pulled my Grapos too soon lliis
last season for n-aking Wine ; if I Iiad let them ban;; longer en
♦"h- Vine, my V»jnc would have had more ilavotu, and been riclicr

•T. A-v
4*

42

iier : lir»t, in the pruning, there should neyerbe too
many branches left on the root, nor those too long ;
for although by doing this there may be a greater
quantity of fruit produced, yet the juice of these
will never be so good as when there is a moderate
quantity, which will be better nourished, and the
roots of the plants not so much weakened ; which
is found to be of so bad consequence to Vineyards,
that when gentlemen abroad let out Vineyards to
V^ignerons, there is always a. clause inserted in
their leases to direct how many shoots shall be left
on each Vine, and the number of eyes to which the
branches must be shortened ; because, were not the
X'ignerons thus tied down, they would overbear the
Vines, so that in a few years they would exhaust
llieir roots, and render them so weak as not to be
recovered again in several years ; and their Wins
would be so bad, as to bring a disreputation oo
the Vineyard, to the great loss of the proprietor.*
The number of branches which the Italians
i^enerally agree to leave on strong Vines are four,

* I have found ihat by pruning close, I have lost my Grapes a)>
together ; for wc frequently have a very warm spell of weather
In March, which causes the lower buds to swell, and then cornea
a sharp frost and destroys all the buds that had began to swell j
-.n the foreign Vines I have had as many as six buds destroyed
jn a shoot, while the buds above produced fine Grapes. I
{lenerallv, upon a strong shoot, leave (Vom eiglii to fifteen buds j-
iind where the Vines are annually manured, 1 do not think it in-
IjvCs the Vine-. ^' ^'

43

two of the strongest have four eyes, and the two
weaker are shortened down to two eyes each.

Constantly keep the ground clean betwf en the
Vines ; dig it carefully every spring, and every
third year manure it. If the land be stiff and in-
clinable to\ bind, then lay on sand or sea-coaJ
ashes •, but! if it be loose and dry ; a little lime
mixed with dung is the best manure. Spread it
thin on the surface, and in digging bury every
part. It is much preferable to all dang, and
where the Vineyard is large, a third part may be
manured every year.

Dig and manure about the beginning of IVIarch,
at which time all the superticial roots must be cut
off, but the larger roots must not be injured ;
therefore the ground close to the stem of the vines
must not be dug very deep. After this is done,
place the stakes one oh each side, at about six-
teen inches from the stems, to which the longest
bearing branches should be fastened ; and one stake
on each side close to the stem, to which fasten the
twa shorter branches upright, to furnish wood for
the succeeding year.

In the summer, look them over carefully, rub-
bing off all weak, dangling shoots, and training
the good ones to the stakes, regularly as they are
produced. Stop those which have fruit in June,
about three joints beyond the bunches ; but ih^
upright shoots, which are designed for bearing

44

the following year, must not be stopped until the
middle of July, when they may be left about five
feet long.*

All this sunjmer, the dressing should be done
with the thumb and finger, and not with a knife,
because wounds made by instruments in summer,
do not heal so soon ; and the shoots being very
tender whilst young, may easily be stopped by
gently nipping the leading bud.

When a Vineyard is thus carefully dressed, the
rows regular, the stakes exactly placed, and the
upright shoots stopped at an equal height, it
makes a beautiful appearance, and when the Vines
are in flower, they emit a most grateful scent,
especially in the morning and evening.

But as the beauty of a Vineyard depends upon the
regular disposition of th^ Vine-branches, great
care should be taken to train them regularly, and

* It will not answer to stop Vines on the bearing bunches in
this climate, until the last of July, or beginning of August, and
those to produce fruit next year must not be stopped at all, but
suffered to grow at full length. Where 1 have stopped them at
three joints above the fruit, when the Grapes vvere the size of
small peas, new shoots were produced, and they blossomed and
bore fruit, and by stopping these last shoots in the same man-
ner, another set of shoots appeared, and also blossomed and
bore fruit. So that on the same branch, I had ripe Grapes, some
nearly full grown, and others about the size of small peas at the
same time. This, I think, must exhaust and injure the Vine
more than by deferring it to a later seasori. J. A.

45

lo provide every year for bearing wood; because
that which has produced iVuit is commonly cut
away after the fruit is gathered, or at least is
shortened down to two eyes, to force out shoots
for the next year ; where there is not Tsuflicient
number of branches of those trained upright, so
that in summer, when the Vines are in perfection,
iix uj^right shoots should be trained for the next
year's wood, and three or four bearing branches
with fruit on them : more than these ought never
to be left on one Vine.

The Auvernaut or true Burgundy Grape is valu-
ed in France before any other sort, because the
fruit never grows very close upon the bunches,
and theretore is more easily ripened ^ for which
reason it and others like it ought to be preferred :
for Grapes in close bunches are frequently ripe on
one side, and green on the other, which is a bad
tjuality for such as are to be used in making Wine.

ON MAKING WINE.

A Mr. Hamilton made a fair experiment in
England, and succeeded so as to make Wine equal
to the best Champaign in France. And there
can be no reason why we should not make good
U'ines in this country, as we have a climate su-

46^

perior to that of England, and equal to that of
most parts of France.

Mr. Hamilton's Vineyard was on the south side
of a gentle hill ; the soil a gravelly sand. It was
planted entirely with two sorts of Burgundy
Grapes, the Auvernaut and the Black Cluster (the
latter is with us called the Miller Burgundy or
Blue English Grape.) The first year he attempt-
ed to make Wine in the usual way, but it was very
harsh and austere ; the second year he succeeded
better in making a White Wine, which nearly re»"
sembled Champaign in flavour : in two or three
years, as the Vines grew stronger, the Wine had ^
finer flavour than the best Champaign. He sold
it to Wine merchants for fifty guineas a hogshead t
and one Wine merchant to whom he sold five
hundred pounds sterling worth at one time, assur*
ed him that he sold some of the best of it from
seven shillings and sixpence to ten shillings and
sixpence sterling per bottle, (which is equal to
from g 1 67 to $ 2 33 per bottle of our money.)

After many years experience, he let the Grapes
hang on the Vines till perfectly .ripe ; they were
then carefully cut off with scissors, and brought
home in small quantities, to prevent their heat-
ing, or pressing one another ; then they were
picked off the stalks, and all the mouldy and green
ones were thrown aside, before the Grapes were
put into the press : which was done in a few hours

47

after they were gathered. As fast as the juice
ran from (he press, it was put into hogsheads and
closely bunged up. These were left all Winter
in a cool barn. When the fermentation was over,
it was racked oflT into clean hogsheads, and carried
to the vaults, before any warm weather could
raise a second fermentation. In March, if any of
the hogsheads were not quite fine, they were fined
down with fish-glue.* All was bottled in the
end of March. In about six weeks, the Wine
would be in perfect order for drinking, and in
prime order for above one year. The second
year the flavour and sweetness abated, and gradu-
ally declined, till they failed entirely. Some of
this was kept for sixteen years, and became very
like old hock. The only art ever u.-od was put-
ting three pounds of White Sugar-Candy, to some
of the hogsheads, when the Wine was first turned
from the press, in conformity to a rage that then
prevailed for very sweet Champaign.

TO MAKE WINE FROM GRAPES.

Gather your Grapes wheu fully ripe, pick them
©ffthe bunches, rejecting all those that are green
and unsound, bruise them with a beetle or any other
instrument, having a care not to bruise the seed j

•Uinglajs.

48

Ibnf theskin of the grape be butjust crackedit is sul-
ficieiit. Then put them into a cask or hogshead,*
(according to the quantity.) with one head out,
and cover it with a blanket and boards to keep out
the dirt, &ic, stir them twice or thrice in the first 24
hours, and then let them stand until the colouring
matter and the pulp, if they have any, are dissolv-
ed, which will be in from 36 hours to 3 or 4 da^ s,
according to the weather, which you can see by
faking up a handful and examining them : the
skins and seeds will have risen to the surface, and
/orm a solid body. Then draw oiF the juice from
a hole made within one or two inches of the bot-
tom of your vat, and barrel it up. But if you
have not enough to fill your cask, press the skins
and seeds, and put both liquors together, and leave
out the bung for eight or ten days, filling it twice
or three times a day for the impurities to escape
at the bung ; and then bung it up tight, and leave
a hole for a spile near the bung, which you may
draw once in two or three days for a few minutes,
to let the air generated escape, and in about one
month drive it in perfectly tight. If your Grapes
«row onyoung Vines, it may be necessary for the
first two or three years to add about from one to
two pounds of clean moist sugar to each gallon, to
give it a body and make it ferment freely .t

* Which I shall throughout this work call a vat.

t When you draw off your Wine from the vat, if it has beer.

49

Some time in the month of December following,
in a clear, dry, cool day, rack it into a clean sweet
cask, well scented with a britnstone match, (if it
held any kind of spirit except good French bran-
dy, the cask ought to be well scalded to take out
any improper flavour,) fill your cask to within an
inch of the bung, and then bung it up as tight as
possible. If your Wine is not fine and bright when
you rack it off,- it will be best to put some fining
into your cask before it is bunged tight. In the
month of January or February following, examine
your casks again, and if the Wine is perfectly fine,
rack it again into a well scented cask, and also put
a small portion of fining into it, a.id in iho month
of March it will be fit to bottle, and in six weeks
afterwards it will be fit for use.

In the latter part of the month of May or June
following, when the Grape Vines are in blossom,
your Wine that is in casks may again go throuifh a
slight fermentation, when the burig ought tci be
loosened for a day or two, and then either racked
off into a clean, well^cented cask, or the bung

Eome daye fermenting and comes oft" clear, it will be best to bung
it up tight at once, having a spile hole near the bung put in
lightly to prevent the cask from bursting. For I find from close
fermenting, if I may so call it, the Wiue is not so liable to run
into the acetous fermentation, and it will be higher flavoured.
But if you have to press your Grapes, it will be necessary to
leave out the bung a few days, for the mucilage, vegetable ex-
tract, or leaven, as it may be called, to escape. J. A.

5

50

iightened ; and if it is drawn off after this slight
fermentation has ceased, and if it has got a good
body, it is then nearly incorruptible ; provided the
cask has been seasoned with Brandy or some other
sound liquor, to extract all the vegetable taste or
substance out of the cask.

When the bruised Grapes in yoar vat have gone
through a fermentation of from two to four days,
the following process may be followed, taken from
a book, entitled " Remarks on the Art of Making
Wine," by John MaccuUock :

In drawing your Wine out of the vat, it ought to
be run through a hair sieve before you put it into
your barrel, <Scc. to get jid of all the solid, insolu-
ble, or superfluous matters, which it may contain,
as those that are of use in the process have by this
time performed their duties, and as thejr continu-
ance would prove injurious. This removal is, in
short, to be considered in the further light of the
first stage of racking or decanting; an operation
of which the careful performance is of prime con-
sequence in the manufacture of Wines. For this
purpose it is requisite that your vat should be
tapped at such a distance from the bottom as to
allow the Wine to flow clear of that sediment that
may have collected at the lower end of the vessel.
By this too, we are enabled to stop the transfusion
of the scum which has collected on Ibe surface,
and has descended so low as to be in danger of

51

funnring out. It is peculiarly necessary to attend (o
the separation of the scum, as from exposure to the
air, it is not only apt to acquire a musty laste, but
to have become as far acid as to endanger the in-
troduction of an acetous ferment into the Wine.
U is usual in some of the Wine countries, to sepa-
rate that portion of the Wine which is entangled
in this solid residium, by means of the Wine press ;
different modes are resorted to in disposing of this
Wine. Sometimes it is mixed with the Wine that
has flowed naturally, and at others it.is reserved
for making a separate" kind of Wine.

The refuse of the press is abundant in the Wine
countries, and apphed to the feeding of cattle, the
fabrication of brandy, and other uselul purposes.

The next part of the management srfbsetjuent
to the fermentation, consists in the method of
treating the Wine in the casks Although the
principal part of the fermentation may have been
completed in the first instance before it is drawn
from the vat, &;c. the liquor still undergoes a fer-
mentation in the casks, which is however much
more languid and slow, and wh'ch is nevertheless
necessary to its completion. If this process be
suffered to go on indetinitely, in those Wines of
which the saccharine principle has been entirely
overcome, it will proceed to the acetous stage,
and vinegar instead of Wine will be the ultimate
result. Such is the natural tendency to fernienta-

52

ion ; a perpetual progress from the vineous to
the acetous ; a progress which, if not counteract-
ed by circumstances in the condition of the Wine
itself, must be prevented by artificial expedients.
The circumstances in the condition of the Wine,
which prevent this ultimate and unwished for
change, are, the disproportion between the leaven
and the sugar, which sutfers a part of the latter
to remain unchanged after the process of vinifica-
tion has been completed, or a balance of these
^trinciples sq nice, that the end of the fermenta-
tion is accompanied by a perfect neutralization of
the two elements which first concurred to estab-
lish it. This nice accuracy is perhaps but sel-
dom attained, since the taste is unable to detect
the least portion of sugar, which is masked by the
predominant taste of the Wine, without neverthe-
less ceasing to produce its effect on the general
flavour and quality.

Having thus established that the acetous pro-
cess will not often take place, when any unchang-
ed sugar remains, we are led to deduce useful re-
sults for practice. If, for example, the Wine is
at the same time dry and light, it will evidently
tend to Vinegar, unless the process be checked
by the artificial means hereafter described. If^
on the contrary, it is sweet and strong, we may
be confident that the acetous process canno' take
^lace immtdiaUly, and that it can be prevented

53

by carefully attending to the changes which it
may undergo during the further fermentation
which it may experience in the cask. From the
same principles, we can also see how the addition
of sugar to Wine in the cask, the durability of
which is suspected, may prevent the acetous pro-
cess from taking place, although so far from af-
fording a reryiedy after it is commenced, that it may
■ven tend to accelerate it.

The fermentation therefore in the cask, wheth-
'ir it be tliat slow and insensible one which is to
• ollow the fermentation in the vat, &ic. or whether
it be commenced in the cask itself, will be gmded
by the general principles already laid down. It
has before been said, that the fermentation will
be diminished and ultimately destroyed, by con-
stantly separating the scum as it arises, and that
it will be prolonged by returning it to the liquors.
As in almost all the cases where the Wine has
been tunned from the vat, it is calculated that the
fermentation is nearly complete, so it will be ne-
cessary to separate the head in these cases, and
that IS to be done by keeping the level of the lluid
so near the bung-hole, lliat the yeast may be suf-
fered to escape. If, for other reasons, w hicli must
by this time be sufficiently obvious, it is to be de-
sired to prolong the fermentation in the cask, it
will be alfected by the contrary practice, b) suf-
fering it to subside in tlie fluid, and continue the
5*

51

process. This, however, being seldom necessary,
we may consider the former practice as the most
general guide for our operations. During this
slow fermentation, the Wine undergoes any dimi-
nution, which it is necessary to remedy by the
addition of fresh liquor, so as to keep it constant-
ly near the bung-hole. The descriptions of the
modes of practice followed in this part of the pro-
cess in the most remarkable foreign Wines, will
perhaps, form the foundation of the best rules
which can be held out to the maker of domestic
Wines. It will be for him to consider the par-
ticular species of Wine which he is desirous of
producing, and so to manage his operations, as
to tread as nearly as circumstances will allow, in
the path that has been followed by the makers of
Wine. In making Champaign, the Grapes are
first squeezed by a gentle pressure, and poured
into the vat, where they remain for one night
only. The next morning, the liquor is transferred
into casks. If the Wine is intended to be red,
the fermentation is continued some little longer
on the husks, till the red colour has been extract-
ed ; but the seeds are carefully separated, as
they communicate a harsh flavour. The first fer-
mentation in the casks is violent, and the dis-
charge of the yeast is encouraged for ten or
twelve days, by keeping them lull to the bung„
hole. It then becomes more moderate whentbe

55

"bung is put down, and a gimblet hole fitted with
a spile is made by the side of it. When the cask
is thus closed, the vent hole is opened every day
or two, according to the state of fermentation, for
a space of eight or ten days, to allow the carbonic
acid to escape. When tliis state is passed,
fresh Wine reserved for the purpose, is poured in
at the vent-hole, so as to (ill the cask once a
week, for the first three or four weeks, according
to its waste. This operation is tlien performed
at longer intervals, of a month or more, till the
end of December, when the Wine usually be-
comes clear. It is afterwards decanted from the
lees into a fresh cask, where it is fined with Isin-
glass, in the proportion of half an ounce to a pipe,
and this process of decanting is carefully done in
dry, clear, frosty weather ; a new fermentation is
now excited, by which the Wine loses a portion
of its sweetness, and becomes still further ameli-
orated. If it should turn out too sweet, the first
operation of decanting, until the fermentation in
the first cask has been rendered more vigorous,
which is done by stirring, or rolling the cask, and
by this, the sweetness is overcome, and the Wine
strengthened and improved. To ensure the fine-
ness of this Wine, which is one of its essential
properties, and to render it at the same time du-
rable, it is at the end of six weeks, decanted a
second time, into a fresh pipe, and once more

5(5

fined with half the quantity of Isinglass. It is
then completed, and is put into bottles in March;
clear dry weather being also chosen for this pur-
pose. Notwithstanding all this care, a fresh de-
posit is still formed in the bottles, from a renew-
ing of the fermenting process which goes on in
them. To remove this, and render the Wines
marketable, those of the best quality are decanted
clear, into fresh bottles, in about fifteen or eighteen
months, when the Wine is perfected. A certain
loss, amounting to one or two in a dozen, is
sustained by their explosion, previous to this last
stage. The bottles ought to be well corked, and
secured wi<^^h a strong pack-thread, or wire and
wax.

I have thought it unnecessary, to detail the
many variations followed hy different makers, or
for difterent qualities of Champaign Wines ; the
most accurate process, being that from which the
most useful lessons are to be derived. It is some-
limes the case, for example, that his Wine is suf-
fered to remain on the lees for three or four
years, but this only happens when it is made in
cask^ of a very large size.

In making the Burgandy Wines, the same prac-
tice is lollowed with regard to bunging and vent-
ing, great care also being taken that the Wine
be decanted very clear, oil the lees, as they would

57

otherwise re-excite the fermentation, and endan-
ger its convei-sion to Vinegar.

The practice pursued in the territory round
Bourdeaux, does 4)ot differ materially in the first
instance, from that of Burgundy ; but as it differs
from it in the important operation of sulphuring,
I shall describe it. It is common to fill up the
cask in about eight or ten days from the time
when the Wine was first introduced. The bung
is lightly put down at the end of a month, and the
cask is then filled every eight or ten days while it
continues to waste ; when this no longer happens,
the bung is.permanently driven. The red Wines
are decanted about the end of March, or the be-
ginning of April, but the white, in December, and
they are both subjected to the process of sulphur-
ing ; of the theory and practi<je, I shall havp. oc-
casion to speak at some length hereafter.

In making the drier sorts of Italian Wines, now
scarcely known, the must is allowed to undergo a
complete fermentation in the vat. No practices
materially different from the most ordinary pro-
cess, are used with regard to these, except the
following. A small quantity of selected half-
dried Grapes, is thrown into each large tun, when
the Wine is finished. But in making the sweeter
Wines, the must is withdrawn from the vat in five
or six days, and put into the casks, from whence
it is shifted rapidly, two or three times in succes-

58

uion, so as te retard and ultimately stop the fer-
mentation. Thus, as must be obvious to the
reader, the Wine is completed, and retains a por-
tion of that sugar, which would otherwise be con-
verted into spirit, and disappear. The Florence
Wine is perfected hy a process of this nature.
For this wine, the must is withdrawn from the vat
as soon as the head is raised. It is then transfer-
red to the cask for thirty-six hours only, and from
this cask is again decanted successively three or
four times, after intervals of only a few hours, by
which means the Wine is completed in a short
time, 80 as to retain its sweetness, and become
marketable. I have thought it right to detail these
practices relative to the Italian Wines, as they
afford most useful hints to our domestic manufac-
"iupcre, to whose misplaced • economy in vessels
and in the labour of decanting, is owing a great
proportion of their failures, and of that uncertain-
ty which prevents them from foretejling the re-
sult of their labours, however identical, may be
the receipt by which they have wrought.

It has already been seen, that the principle on
which the fabrication of sweet Wines depend, is
the premature stopping of the fermentation, so as
to retain in the W^ine a portion of unchanged
sugar. This artificial term is produced by sul-
phuring, or, as just stated, by frequent racking,
either or both of which methods arc practised in

^9

dinierent countries. The sweetness requisite iu
the juice, is procured by a partial drying of the
Grapes, or by the addition of boiled must^ sugar,
or honey. As the practices of different places
throw no additional light on this part of the sub-
ject, I shall be excused from entering into further
details of the modes practised in France, Cyprus,
Germany, Spain, or the Canaries, for the manu-
facture of Cyprus, Tokay, Malmsey, Frontignan,
Palma, Sack, or any of the well known sweet
Wines of these countries, since there is no/nate-
rial variation in them.

It is almost equally unnecessary, to detail the
practices followed wilh regard to the better
known and more popular Wines, Sherry, Port, and
Madeira, as they afford some examples relative to
the use of Brandy in making Wines, it will not be
superfluous, to touch slightly on the subject.

In the practice of Oporto, the complete fermen-
tation of the must takes place in the vat. The
Wine is then introduced into large tuns, capable
of holding twenty-five pipes each, and at this
stage, the Brandy is added according to the dis-
cretion of the maker. In Madeira, the second,
or insensible fermentation, is carried on in pipes^
and the Wine is racked from tliem at the end of
three or four months, at which time a portion of
the Brandy is added. The remainder is reserv-
ed to be mixed gt the time of exportation. The

60

i

process followed in making Sherry, is rather more j
comphcated, and appears to afford some ii?eful 1
hints relative to the disposal of the Brandy ,
vvhich fashion has introduced into the composition
of this, as of the former Wines. The Grapes are
first slightly dried, and sprinkled with quick lime.
They are then wetted with Brandy on being in-
troduced into the press, and a portion of Brandy
is added to the must before the fermentation com-
mences. By this procedure, it is probable that
the Brandy is better enabled to combine with the
Wine, so as to form a fluid more perfect than
when it is merely, as in former cases, mixed with
the Wine after that is completed. The subse-
quent process consists in repeated racking, at in-
tervals of a month or two, till March •, Brandy
being added at each racking.

The processes of sulphuring Hnd clarifying, on
which I have slightly touched above, require to be
treated more at length, as both the theory and
practice of these operations, is intimately connect-
ed with the art under review.

The doctrines of fermentation, and the practices
founded on them already laid down, have shown
Hhat this process has a tendency to continue under
favourable circumstances, as long as the two chief
agents in it, namely, sugar and leaven, remain
undecomposed in the liquor. It has further been
seen, that if the leaven has entirely been disposed

61

of during the process, by becoming insoluble im
the forms of yeast and lee, and by subsequent se-
paration, the process terminates naturally, and the
Wine will, in this case, be dry or sweet, accord-
ing to the proportions of sugar which may remain
unconverted. It has also been proved, that if, dur-
ing the process of fermentation, the sugar has
been entirely overcome, while a portion of leaven
remains in the liquor, the process will go on un-
til the acetous fermentation takes place. The
Wine is then destroyed, and is ultimately con-
verted into Vinegar. I have already, in describ-
ing the racking of Wines, shown that its principal
object is, to clear the liquor of its lees, which con-
- tain a portion of the yeast, and would re-excite
the fermentation, if sufl'ered to mix again with the
Wine. It is thus that turbid Wine maybe always
considered, both as in an unfinished anda precarious
state, since it is in constant danger of having the
fermentation renewed, and consequently of be-
coming ;t?ncA;erf, as the term is, or of running into
the first stage of acetification. A continuation of
the process which gives the pricked taste, converts-
it into Vinegar. This species of insecurity, aris-
ing from the action of the yeast, is prevented, as has
already been seen, partly by working out the light-
er part of the yeast, that which arises in scum
through the bung-hole, and partly by the process
of racking and clarifying. But neither of these

62

measures is capable of disengaging the Wine
from the leaven, which it may hold in a state of
solution, since this portion remains uniformly com^
bincd with the clear fluid. A chemical process
is required for the purpose, the object of which
is to render this leaven inactive, by operating cer-
tain chemical changes on it, of which the theory
is perhaps, still obscure. The practice in com-
mon use for this end, is sulphuring, but I shall
consider that, and some other means, adequate fo
produce the same effects, after I have enforced
more fully what I have already laid down on the
subject of clarifying. In speaking of the several
particular AVines, I have stated the times which
are chosen for this purpose, which vary according
to the different kinds, but are rigidly adhered to
by the Manufacturer of each particular sort. I
have also mentioned, that dry cold weather ought
to be selected for this operation, as it is then on-
ly that the Wines ate clear. They are general-
ly turbid in damp close weather, and in southerly
winds; and it is evident, if they are then racked,
.1 portion of the matter will remain adhering to
the liquor. The mode in which this operation is
performed, is by no means indifferent, as by the
common method of tapping, it is scarcely possible
to draw off the Wine without mixing a portion of
the lee with it. It it more effectualy done by
means of a syphon introduced at the bung. But

63

the most certain method, is one similar to that
practised by the i etailer of porter in drawing the
liquor; namely, the condensation of air on its
surface. This may be readily performed, without
the aid of any complic ited machinery. To eflfect
it, a cock is introduced into the full cask at the
usual place of tapping, three or four inches above
the bottom, from which a leather-hose pipe pas-
ses into the bung-hole of the empty one. A com-
mon pair of bellows may then be so fitted to the
bung-hole of the full cask, as to force, by its ac-
tion, the whole of the clear liquor through the hose
into the empty vessel. By this means, the least
possible disturbance is created, and the Wine is at
the same time, preserved from the injurious con-
tact of atmospheric air. But the mere process
of racking is insufficient to clear the Wine entire-
ly. The complete clarification is only to be ef-
fected by precipitating the turbid matter with
those substances which experience has proved to
be possessed of this power. These are sand, gyp-
sum, fishglue, gum, starch, rice, and alumen, ei-
ther in the form of whites of eggs, or the scum
of blood. Milk is also possessed of the same pro-
perty, but in a degree less perfect. The substan-
ces most in use, are isinglass and the whites of
eggs — an ounce of isinglass is sufficient for a pipe
of one hundred and ten gallons of Wine, and about
eighteen whites of eggs are equivalent in effect to

64

this quantity. Whichsoever of these substances,
is used, it is first diluted in a portion of the Wine,
and then strongly agitated with the whole. After
some days, when the Wine has become clear, it
must be drawn otf. The shavings of beech wood
have the same effect, but it is unnecessary to mul-
!iply the account of processes after the simple ones
which I have just described ; and which are prac-
Mcally so well known.

The cases in which the process of sulphuring
is required, will be apparent from the principles
already laid down, and from the description I have
given of the class of Wines to which it is princi-
pally applicable, those of Bourdeaux. The most
simple process being equally effectual with the
more complicated ones, which are sometimes fol-
lowed, I shall content myself with a description of
it. To perform it, matches dipped in sulphur in-
troduced into the empty cask, where they are suf-
fered to burn until they are extinguished by the
consumption of the atmospheric air within the
vessel. It is then full of sulphurous acid gas. —
The Wine is afterwards introduced into it, and in
a little time it is racked off in the usual way. If
the fermentation should even after this be renew-
ed, the process may be repeated as often as re-
quired. When the leaven is supposed to be so
abundant, as is the case with the Wines of Bour-
deaux, that this simple and slight mode of per-

65

forming the operation is deenned insufficient, a
larger quantity of sulphurous acid may be intro-
duced into the Wine, by pouring it more gradual-
ly into the cask and repeating the combustion of
the match at several intervals during the process
of filling it.

The theory of this process appears to consist in
a change produced on the soluble ferment or lea-
ven, analogous to that by which it is converted
during the act of fermentation, into insoluble
ferment or yeast. The Wine becomes turbid, ap-
parently from the precipitation of the yeast, and,
unless it is fined and racked, is still ready to un-
dergo a renewed fermentation. But when clear-
ed of this matter by the above mentioned process, it
remains unalterable. It is evident that tlie same
process applied to highly saccharine Wines will
tend to preserve their sweetness; and thus, indeed,
most of the sweet Wines are prepared. It will
be easily understood from the processes thus
generally described, how far the maker of domes-
tic Wines is capable of deriving advantage from
them. The rules are, in fact so universal, that
it would be a waste of time to enter into more
details respecting their application. But, before I
quit this subject, it will not be uninteresting to
point out some methods of attaining the same end,
which are little known, and perhaps more conve-
nient, than the processes above described. One of
6*

66

these is the introduction of the Black Oxide of"
Manganese, whose properties in precipitating the
leaven, are similar to those of sulphuric acid. But
a more ready, and perhaps the most convenient
process of all, is the use of sulphate of potash, a
salt easily prepared, or easily procured from
the trading Chemists. A very small quantity of
this salt, which possesses the advantages of dura-
bility, is sufficient to answer the purpose. A
drachm, for example, will be enough for a pipe
of Wine. It commvnicates no taste, and can rea-
dily be managed with the greatest accuracy, by
proportioning the quantity to the particular circum-
stances of the Wme. Makers of sweet-meats will
not be displeased to know, that by the use of the
same substance, the fermentation of syrups and
preserves may also be effectually prevented.

Two general matters yet remain to be spoken
of, which regard the practice of Wine making —
These are the medication of Wines, if it may be
so called, including those practices by which Wines
may be mixed, corrected, and altered, and the
means of remedying those diseases to which they
are liable.

The medication of Wines consists in altering
the colour, the flavour, or the strength of any
given Wine, or in so mixing two or more together
as to produce a compound, differing from, or su-
perior to, either of them taken separately.

67

It is difficult to give any rules for the mixing of
Wines, as the taste and experience of the maker
are the only guides to be depended on. Yet this
is an important branch of the art of Wine making,
in Wine countries, and it is no less applicable to
the production of useful results in our domestic
manufacture. It is evident that a weak Wine
and a strong one, a harsh and a sweet, a flat and
a brisk Wine, may be materially benefited, by mix-
ture, and that the produce may be superior to
either of the Wines taken separately. By the
same means, also, colour and flavour may be in-
terchanged, or communicated 5 but taste, smell,
and practice, are the guides in this operation. It
generally happens, that when two distinct Wines
are mixed, the process of fermentation is partial-
ly renewed, or the mixture, in technical language,
frets. This observation applies to a valuable prac-
tice in this manipulation, namely. fretlMig in. tech-
ni<:all}'so called. It is found, by experience, that
mixed Wines unite into one durable and homoge-
!!• ous liquor, only in consequence of this fermenta
tion. A season and circumstances are therefore
chosen in which, one or both of the Wines to be thus
mixed, are eitlier in a state of renewed fermenta-
tion, or show a tendenc} to it. The \'^lnes being
then proportioned according to the fancy, or the
experience of the artist, a strong fermenlation is
excited, which is still further assisted by agitation*

68

When this process, which is conducted with the
precautions formerly laid down for the treatment
of close fermentation, is completed, the Wine has
become uniform, and is converted into a homo-
geneous liquor,with no further tendency to change
than if it had originally been produced by one
operation. A repetition of the processes of fining
and racking, suffice to perfect it. by disengaging
such superfluous leaven, lee, or colour, as would
spoil its appearance, or endanger its durability.
In the Wine countries, particular Wines are manu-
factured for the sole purpose of mixing with others;
these are distinguished by their strength, their
harshness, colour, or flavour, and are applied ac-
cording to the exigencies of the case. Peculiar
kinds of Grapes are cultivated, and peculiar man-
agement, into which I need notenter, resorted to,
for making those Wines.

The few properties which require correction,
are chiefly contained under the following heads*

The fault of excessive sweetness arises either
from too large a portion of sugar, compared with
the leaven, or from the imperfect fermentation
which the fluid has undergone. It is prevented,
if it arises from the first cause, by reducing the
quantity of sugar, or increasing the proportions
of leaven and tartar, by the means which have
already been amply pointed out. If it proceeds
from the latter cause, it may be remedied by pro-

69

longing the fermentation, of which the means
have also been fully detailed in other parts of this
essay.

Another fault to which Wine is subject, is an
excessive sharpness. Too active a fermentation
in a fluid containing much of the vegetable acids,
will, by destro) ing the whole of the sugar, lead to
this fault ; a fault in almost every Wine, except
those of the Hock and Rhine growths, in which it
constitutes a valuable feature, from circumstances
yet unexplained, and in which it is almost always
accompanied with uncommon durability : it is an
accident to be expected, when, unripe fruit has
been used, unless that has been counteracted
by corresponding increase of the saccharine prin-
ciple.

Yet it is a fault, which should be pointed out,
sensible as it is to those who know the value of
that undelinable light, and quick flavour, so per-
ceptible in the good Wines of France, and which
so cofnpletely disappears under the treatment by
which the stronger Wines of Spain and Portugal,
are made marketable in England.

It is a quality, which sometimes arises from age,
sometimes from the complete annihilation of the
fermenting process, whether this has been the
C()ii?equence of natural causes, or of too sedulous
a pursuit of the artificial means of stopping it;
but the common cause of this evil, is the admix-

70

ture of Brandy, or Spirits. This practice is uni-
versal in the Wines of Spain, Portugal, and Sicily,
which is intended for exportation. It has also
been introduced into the Wines of other coun-
tries, under the mistaken notion of pr«:-venting
them from turning sour, and with the idea, that
it enabled them to keep for a longer time. As
this is a question of some importance, both as it
regards the perfection, and the economy of our
manufacture, I shall enter somewhat largely into
it.

It had long been thought, from the vain at-
tempts of Chemists, to separate the Alcohol which
is a constituent part of Wine, by other chemi*
cal processes than distillation ; that this substance
existed in it, either in a far different condition
from that in which we know it, when in its sepa-
rate state, or that the intoxicating substance con-
tained in the Wine, was not Alcohol. This
opinion appears to have originated with Rouelle,
who imagined that Alcohol was not completely
formed until the temperature was raised to the
point of distillation. More lately the same doc-
trine was revived, and promulgated by Fabroni,
in the memoir of the Florentine Academy. His
opinion was founded on the following experiment:
when Alcohol is added to new Wine, he observed
that he could by the introduction of the sub-car-
bonate of potash, in sufficient quantity, separate

71 .4?

•» . ^

the added Alcohol, while the spirit of the Wine
remained attached to it as before these additions,
and could only be obtained by subjecting it to
distillation. Hence, he concluded, that the Al-
cohol was formed by the action of heat on the
elements of Wine, or that it was a product of dis-
tillation.

But the experiment was not attended with
similar results in the hands of other Chemists, un-
less in cases where the added Alcohol bore a very
considerable proportion to the Wine, and it con-
sequently left the question respecting the forma-
tion of Alcohol in Wine, in the same state as be-
fore. I need not point out the laxity so apparent
in Fabroni'S reasonings, as it would lead to dis-
cussions too minute for this essay. But the atten-
tion of other Chemists, has been excited towards
the same object, and conclusions, the reverse of
his, have been the consequence. If sub-acetate
of lead be added to Wine, and the clear liquor be
then saturated with sub carbonate of potash, the
Alcohol will be separated. It also appears, from
the experiments of Gay Lussac, that Alcohol can
be separated from Wine by distillation, at the
temperature of sixty-six degrees, and indeed,
from the trials of Fabroni himself, this separation
was produced at sixty-three degrees. More re-
cently, by the aid of a vacuum, the distillation has
been effected at fifty-six degrees ; a proof that

72

Alcohol is not produced by the action ot the heat
required for boiling Wine, or wash, on the ele-
ments which these substances contain. Il must
therefore be considered as one of the eleaientary
constituents of Wine ; and whatsoever pheno-
mena it may therefore present with re-agents, or
a subject of chemical enquiry, must, as far as they
may differ in different Wines, arise from differ-
ences in its mode of combination with one or
more of the other ingredients which enter into that
compound fluid. Although, therefore, Alcohol is
ascertained to exist ready formed in all Wines,
so much of the experiment of Fabroni, is still true
as to be an object of utility in the subject we are
now examining; while the conclusions to be
drawn from it appear of importance in explaining
the different effects of simple Wines, and Wines
in which Brandy has been mixed. It is presum-
ing much too far on our Chemical knowledge, to
imagine that we are acquainted with the nature
of Alcohol. It is possibly to varieties of compo*
sition, analogous to those which are found in the
very variable substances included under carbu-
reted hydrogen gas, and which, although they have
not been appreciated by Chemical actions, merely
perhaps, because the subject has been supposed
to be already understood, and the substance itself
imagined in all cases to be Chemically identical,
0)ay be ascertained hereafter, by more refined

73

experiments, in the hands of acuter Chemists, te
whom this subject is here pointed out, as calling
for investigation. It is otherwise impossible to
understand the differences which appear in its
effects on the nervous system, when taken into
the stomach under its diflerent forms. Where its
specific gravity, and consequently its imagined
condition is in different specimens, absolutely
equal, yet these specimens, produced under dif-
ferent circumstances, operate on the nervous -;ys-
tem in a manner so totally different, as to point out
some radical differences of which specific gravity
is no criterion. The comparative effects of new
and old Rum, of equal /)roq/", of Dutch Gin, and
of diluted Alcohol, of equal strength, are too well
known, to require more than a bare men<ion. ft
has been supposed, for want of better nieans of
explaining these effects, that they were due to the
essential oil contained in the different varieties of
Spirits used as a beverage. But of these we know
nothing. We are sure that they are very trilling
in quantity, since they cannot be separated by
water, except in the single case of Gin, where a
foreign oil is purposely introduced. Neither are
we acquainted with any oils of this class, whose
qualities are deleterious, except that of the bitter
kernels, their analogous kindred to laurel, and a
few other bitter vegetables, whose poisonous
qualities besides, appear to be subject to no
7

74

modification, ^eing, where not deadly, almost un-
productive of any eifects. Moreover that spirit,
Alcohol, from which, by careful rectification, the
essential oil seems to have been most carefully re-
moved, is more injurious than those which, like
Rum and Brandy, are known to contain it.

Dilution does not remove Ihe injurious efiects
of these noxious spirits. When Spirit of any sort
is mixed with water, it requires some little time
to effect the union of the two substances ; they ul-
timately become combined. Yet the effect of one
kind of spirit, although combined with water, is
still different from that of the other on the human
body. They are both very different from that of
pure Wine, in which chemical reagents or distilla-
tion have ascertained precisely the same propor-
tion of Alcohol. In olher words, the same quan-
tity of Alcohol applied to the stomach under the
form of Wine, and in a state of mere combination
with water, is productive of effects on the body,
not only immediately, but ultimately attended
with considerable differences. These are well
known to physicians. They are equally well
known to those whose habits of observation, ei-
ther on themselves or others, have led them to
compare the moral effects, if we may so term them,
produced by intoxication with different Wines, with
Champaign and Claret, or with Port or Sherry ;
the elevation of thought produced by the former,

75

with the sedative effects of tlie latter ; or who have
had an opportunity of witnessing the stupidity
produced hy ale, and the ferocity which results
from intoxication with spirits. The nervous sys-
tem is here a test of differences which ehide the
ordit.ary resources of chenriistry. Yet the rea-
geiits winch liave been applied to the investiga-
tion of these differences, although they have done
litile, still show that some chemical distinctions
may really exist. It has been perhapshastily said of
Fabbrioni's experiment, that it was useless, since
it produced no con>>istent result. On the contrary,
it appears to be a test applicable to some of the
least tenacious combinations of Alcohol, and the
censure unjustly passed on it, has originated in
want of attention to the subject, and to those de-
licate circumstances in the combinations of Alco-
hol, on which its various effects, as it exists in Wine
and other potable liquors, depend. Could we dis-
cover an additional number of reagents differing
from their various powers of separating the differ-
ent combinations under which it is found, I have
little doubt that chemical means would shortly il-
lustrate, by corresponding ditferences of effect,
the different powers which these beverages exert
on the nervous system. The experiment of Fab-
brioni is perfectly valid to a certain extent, and
the causes of the supposed irregular results, appear

76

to be abundantly obvious. If Alcohol be mixed
with water in any proportion, it may be separated
bj carbonate of potash. If it be mixed with Wine,
m the same manner, it is, with due attention and
in particular circumstances, equally separable.
But if an attempt be made to separate the adven-
ritious Alcohol from these Wines, to which it has
heen added by the manufacturer, the experiment
will sometimes succeed and sometimes fail. The
cause is mentioned in various parts of this essay,
and is apparently this : If the Alcohol or Brandy
be added before the fermentation of the Wine, or
at some subsequent stage when that fermentation
can be artificially re-excited, it then enters either
entirely or partially into a more perfect combina-
tion with the Wine than that which it foi*ms after a
mere admixture ; or a portion of it at least, pro-
portioned to the degree of fermentation which
takes place after its addition, becomes thus com-
bined. Here the test indicated by Fabbrioni fails,
although reagents of higher powers are still capa-
ble of effecting the separation. In all such cases
the Wine is imperfectly vineous, the Brandy being
almost alway sensible to delicate palates, and its
effects on the stomach are proportionably inju-
rious. The test is therefore of real use in ascer-
taining the correct fabrication of those Wines to
which Brandy is added, and it will invariably be

77

found that the worst Wines of the growth of Por-
tugal and Spain are those which are the most sen-
sible to it ; or in other words, those which contain
the greatest quantity of uncombined Alcohol. But,
to return to the consequences which arise in the
liquor itself from the admixture of Alcohol — It de-
composes the JVine. However slow the decompo-
sition may appear, they are not the less certain,
rhe first and most conspicuous effect, is the loss
of that undefinable, lively or brisk flavour, which
all those who possess accuracy of taste can disco-
ver in French Wines, or in natural Wines ; and a
Hatness, which must be sensible by the principle
of contrast to the dullest palate which shall com-
pare the taste of Claret with that of Port, or that
of Hock or Grave, with that of Lisbon or Bucellos.
It tends equally, although in a greater length of
time, to destroy the union of the colouring princi-
ple, which is well known to be deposited in Port
Wines, and apparently in a great measure from the
action of this foreign substance. It ma} not be use-
lessatthesametime,toconsidertheinllueuce winch
it must have on the quality of the Wme as a beverage.
The habitual use of Wine containing, as many of
the Wines of Portugal so often do, a large portion
of Brandy, must be manifestly equivalent to the
habitual use of Spirits and Wine together. To
this cause we may doubtless attribtite the great
7*

78

(liflference ituthe effects produced by an immode-
rate indulgence in Port and Sherry, or by a simi-
lar use of Claret and other French Wines. Even
the immediate effects are sensibly different, "as I
have said before, and the transitory nature of the
one, with the permanence of the other, are too
well known to be insisted on. But the ultimate
consequences appear .to be of a more serious na-
ture. It is well known to physicians that diseases
of the liver are the most common and the most
formidable of those produced by the use of Spirits.
It is equally certain that no such disorders follow
the temperate use of pure Wine, however long
indulged in ; and to this cause, the concealed and
unwiting consumption of Spirit, as it is contained
in the Wines commonly drank in this country, is
doubtless, to be attributed the excessive and in-
creasing prevalence of hepatic affections, diseases
comparatively little known on the continent of
Europe. It is sufficient to have touched on this
most important subject, on which the proposed
limits of the present e-say will not allow me to
dwell. It is more to my present purpose to show,
that the use of Brandy in the manufacture of Wine
is founded on a mistaken principle. Having shown
that it is injurious to Wine in general, by destroy-
ing its livelitiess, and hastening its decomposition.
J might strengthen this assertion by mentioning

'9

that it is not used in any of the Wines o( France or
Germany^ and that the finer Wines, Claret, Bur-
gundy, and Hock, are totally destroyed by it. But
it is also proper to point out its insufficiency for
producing the effects expected from it, the preser-
vation of the Wine, and the retardation of the
acetous process. The reader is here reminded
that the acetous process cannot take place while
there exists between the leaven and the sugar a
disproportion in favour of the latter, and that the
fermentation cannot be re-excited if the leaven
has been entirely separated by the usual process
of racking, fining, and sulphuring, should even
the sugar have disappeared. Such Wines can
have no tendency to vinegar, and (he addition of
Brandy, if intended to prevent that effect, is at
least superfluous. It is now to be enquired whe-
ther Brandy has any power to prevent the acetous
process from taking place, supposing that the cir-
cumstances favourable to it are present. If Bran-
dy in small quantity be introduced into vinegar
during the acetous stage of feimentation, the pro-
cess goes on as before, and the Alcohol is aceti-
fied, the produce becoming a stronger vinegar.
This, has been lately denied by Mr. Cadet, in
whose hands the addition of Alcohol in small quan-
tities appears to have had no effect on the acetous
process. From his experiments it would alsoap-

80

pear, that the addition of Alcohol in a quantity ex
ceeding one seventeenth of the fluid, suspends the
acetification. In the state of ignorance in which
we are respecting the chemical nature of that
process, it does not appear easy to reconcile these
contradictory experiments. Admitting that the
experiments of Mr. Cadet are unexceptionable, it
remains certain that Wine can be, and daily is,
brought into the acetous fermentation by proper
treatment, or under natural circumstances, al-
though containing a far greater proportion of Al-
cohol, than that which appeared to him sufficient
to suspend the process. It is certainly possible
that the state of combination above described, in
which the Alcohol exists in the Wine, may, when
cpntrasted by the mere mixture which may pos-
sibly take place in his experiment, account for
this difference of effect ; or it may even happen
that the action of Alcohol on a process already
commenced, may be sufficient to account for the
difference ; the same Alcohol applied before the
commencement of the process being susceptible
of the incipient changes, and being thus ultimate-
ly capable of entering into the final ones in com-
mon with the rest of the fluid. But this subject
is very obscure.

I must therefore proceed in the examination
of this subject, on the basis of former experience,
omitting any exceptions to be drawn from theic

81

experiments, as being for the present incapable
of application ; the more so, that they do not ap-
pear strictly applicable to the case under review,
the prevention of the change of Wine to Vinegar.
If Biandy and Milk are mixed together, the acetous
process establishes itself speedily, and the pro-
duce is Vinegar. We have here an ample proof
that Brandy, in these cases, so far from checking
the acetous process, increases it ; and therefore,
that its use, as a preservative of Wine, is founded
in error. I have dwelt the more on this subject,
because this view is opposed to all popular opin-
ions and practices, opinions most assuredly lound-
ed on erroneous and vague analogies, drawn from
some supposed preservative power, residing in
spirits. 1 am the more particular in calling to
this subject, the attention of those who may engage
in the manufacture of Wines, because a notion h
prevalent, that Wines cannot exist without this
ad-mixture. The effect on the contrary, is to de-
stroy the briskness of Wines, while it increases
the expense and diminishes their salubrity. If
taste or prejudice require that Wine should be
stronger than it can be made naturally, or if, for
temporary purposes, it is desirable to mix Brandy
with Wine, it may be done, but under certain re-
strictions which I shall presently point out, when
I have occasion to speak of the diseases incident
to Wine, and their remedies.

82

The last remarkable quality in Wine, which may
err in excess or defect, is its briskness. The cause
of briskne&s, which is in general a desirable quality,
has already been shewn to consist in a forcible re-
straint of the carbonic acid by the pressure of the
cork, care being taken to bottie the Wme before
the fermentation has entirely ceased. The mode
of managing this, has been fully pointed out when
describing the process used in Champaiiin. Yet
I may add, that briskness in Wine will always bt
better ensured, if a portion of the fruit used be in
an unripe state. The period of bottling, has a
considerable effect on this property. That which
'^ bottled in the month of March, immediately
following the Autumn in which it was made, pos-
sesses it in the greatest degree. If delayed till
August, it will still mantle, but when bottled either
in the intermediate Summer months, or in the
cold of Winter, it is subject t6 lose this tendency.
It may be prevented by racking and sulphuring,
since it is obvious that whatever destroys the pow-
er of fermenting, must also destroy this propensity
to froth.

I have often said, and it is almost superfluous
to repeat it, that Wines made from fluids whose
composition we can command, may be produced
©f any degree o1^ strength, merely by a due pro-
portion of sugar, and a proper management of the
fermentation. I have also pointed out the bad
consequences which follow the admixture of Bran-

i

83

dy or Spirits with Wine. Yet it is difficult to
overcome established practices; I think it right
to describe the mode in which Brandy may be
added to Wines with the least possible injury,when
it is desired to render them stronger — I have fully
shewn, that this is, in fact, the only effect which Spi-
rits are capable of producing. If Brandy be added
to any Wine after it is completed, it merely pro-
duces a mixture, in which Brandy is not only gen-
erally to be distinguished by an accurate palate,
but in which all the evil effects I before pointed
out, are most conspicuous. To render this mix-
ture more complete and less injurious, it should
be made while the process of fermentation is still
going on. The most convenient time will be, dur-
ing the insensible fermentation, which takes place
in the cask. By this method, a portion at least
of the added Spirit, enters into permanent combi-
nation with the Wine, in consequence of its having
undergone the action of the fermenting process ;
and the injury to the quality of the Wine is the
least possible. If the wish to add Brandy should
not have risen until after the Wine is completed,
it should then be managed in the way already re-
commended for mixing different Wines ; namely,
by the process technically CAWed fretting-in. That
the time of the year should be chosen when Wine
is inclined to fret or to renew its fermentation,
which process can be aided by stirring up the lees

84

bj heat or by rolling. The Brandy being then
added, a more iritimate union of the two is pro-
duced, than could have been procured in the com-
mon way. I may add, that this practice is well
known to Wine-coopers.

The last of the minor objects, connected with
the art of Wine-making, are the remedies appli-
cable to this fluid, under the various diseased al-
terations of which it is susceptible.

Sweet Wines and strong, are so little liable to
morbid changes, that the few rules I have to give
respecting them, may never be wanted. Yet as
they will serve to complete these general views
of the subject, and to render the manufacturer
more completely master of his art, I shall mention
the little whicli is known on this head. The de-
licate and thin Wines are those most subject to
change. In these, the.renewal of the fermentation
is always to be feared under change of place and
temperature ; leads, as I have already shewn, to
the acetous process, and thus to the destruction of
the Wine. This process once begun, is difficultly^
checked ; it may be suspended or concealed, but
the Wine is still irreparably injured. It can only
be prevented by diligent and careful apphca-
tion of the pi*ocesses of sulphuring, fining, racking,
already so fully described. Among these, let the
Wine-maker always bear in mind, that fineness in
Wine, is not merely a quality intended to please

8d

the eye, but that it is essential to the durability of
the liquor. I have already pointed out as ruces-
sary to the prevention of ascecents in Wine, (hat
some saccharine matter should remain in it unde-
composed. In this case, it cannot easily run into
the acetous state. The addition of a small quan-
tity of sugar to the VV^ine, of which the durability
is suspected, either in the cask or in bottling, ope-
rates on this principle in preserving it. This
practice is common in the poorer Wines of Cham-
paign, and it is found to be effectual. The sugared
Wiiies of Champaign are distinguishable by good
judges ; not, hozoevcr, simply because they are su-
gared, but because this addition is only made to the
Wines of inferior quality. Boiled must is used in
many Wine countries ; in Spain, Italy, and Greece,
for example, with the same views. The degrees
of ascecency is most common in weak Wines, in
which the tendency to Vinegar is always great, al-
though the Vinegar which they yield is necessarily
weak. It is also common to those which contain
much extractive matter, and which, under other
circumstances, are apt to turn ropy. On the con-
trary principle, it is impossible to convert into Pine-
gar, those IVines from zohich the whole of the ex-
tractive matter has, by age, or other causes, beeti
precipitated- It is further proper to remark, that
the contact of atmospheric air is necessary to
acetification, and that is consequently to be re-
8

86

vented by an absolute exclusion of this substance,
such as may be effected in bottles perfectly full,
and properly sealed. Change, and increase of tem-
perature, are also favourable to this morbid pro-
cess, and for these, the obvious remedy is the uni-
form low temperature of a good cellar. A con-
sideration of these circumstances, will teach us
how the disease may be prevented. It is another
matter to know how it is to be corrected, when it
has taken place.

By means of sweets, the acid taste, if not in
excess, may be palliated. But it can only be re-
moved by such substances as neutralize and de-
stroy it. For this purpose, the alkalies and the
alkaline earths have been used. As the alkalies
form soluble salts with Vinegar, they are apt to
communicate a disagreeable saline taste, which
may be avoided by substituting chalk or lime, of
which the produce is nearly insoluble, and may be
separated bjf fining. It is well known, that lead
in different forms, has frequently been employed
for this purpose ; but the practice being attended
with dangerous consequences, is now obsolete. It
is proper, however, to know that there are three
substances to which Wine may be indebted for ex-
cessive acidity •, the tartarous, malic, and acetic
acids. Of these, the two first form compounds
with the acetic acid, which are nearly insoluble,
and which may consequently be separated by fin-

87

Jiig. The acetate of lead alone is soluble, and in
small quantities may be taken without inconveni-
ence. It is probable, however, that the substance
formed by immersing metallic lead in Wine
whichcontains Vinegar, is either the subacetate or
ceruss, the latter being a substance productive of
well-known diseases, but from its weight, incapa-
ble of being permanently suspended in the \Vine.
In attempting to diminish the apprehensions that
have been entertained on this point, I am far from
recommending this remedy, since it is less effica-
cious than time, and cannot be considered free
from danger.

Ropiness is the next disease to which thin Wines
are particularly liable : It occurs in those which
contain a good deal of extractive matter, and ap-
pears to result from the action of oxygen on the
soluble extract, converting it into an insoluble one,
somewhat analogous to tibrine. The mother, as
it is called, of Vinegar, seems to originate from
similar causes. This disease may be cured, by
exposing the bottles in which it has taken place,
to the sun and air, by agitating and subse-
quently uncorking them, by a small quantity of
vegetable acid, and by fining.

The last disease of Wine, is a taste of mustiness
derived from the cask or cork, a disease to be
prevented by proper precautions in the selections
of the vessels, but scarcely to be cured.

88

I have now finished all that I proposed to saj.
©n the general principles of Wine-making, with-
out a knowledge of which, every attempt to ame-
liorate, or even correctly to practice that branch
ef the art, which alone, is piacticable in our coun-
try, would be vain.

As there are thousands of bushels of Grapes
growing wild oyer the whole face of our country,
particularly to the southward, I shall make no
apology for giving the following extract from
M'Cullock, on Wine making.

" It is the object of this essay, to show that the-
making of good Wine from Grapes of British
growth, does by no means depend on their matu-
ration, and that this is not a necessary circum-
stance. The process of making Wine from Grapes
vvill be reduced to a much narrower question, if we
can succeed in making it at all times, unchecked
by seasons or accidents, A Vineyard may be
conducted with almost as little care as a goose-
berry, or currant garden, with the certainty of a
constant produce, applicable to the purposes in
view; and it will be in every one's power in al-
most any situation. However precarious the
ripening of the Grape may be, its produce is not
go. W^e are sure of an annual crop of Grapes,
but not of an annual crop of ripe ones."

A compound and artificial must^ can be fabri-
cated froH» due mixtures of sugar, with the ex-

89

tractive matter and saline substances of fruits,
capable of undergoing a regular fermentation,
and of forming good and perfect Wine. The
case is as applicable to the Grapes, as to the
gooseberry, or currant. Long ago, experiments
were made in France, by several Chemists, with
green Grapes and sugar, and with complete suc-
cess. I have repeated these experiments, and
varied them with the best effects. The produce
has varied with the management, and the results
of the trials have been Wines resembling Cham-
paign, Grave, Rhenish, and Moselle, and of quali-
ties so perfect that the best judges and Wine
tasters have not been able to distinguish them
from foreign Wines. The Grapes may be used
in any state, however immature. When even
half grown and perfectly hard, they succeed com-
pletely. It is evident that Wines made on this
principle, will be more expensive than when made
from ripe Grapes, as a sufficient quantity of sugar
must be used to compensate for the deficiency of
the natural sugar of the Grape. But even then,
they are not more costly than currant and goose-
berry Wines, while at the same time, their supe-
riority is beyond all comparison. The hardest
Grapes will produce a Wine of the strength of
White Hermitage, with a proportion of three
pounds of sugar to the gallon ; and the expense

90

will be trifling, compared to the value of the pro-
duce.

It might be supposed, that these Wines would
necessarily be devoid of flavour. But this is by
no means the case, since ail the specimens which
were under my direction, were characterised by
flavour as genuine and decided as those of the
foreign Wines to which they approximated. I
have little doubt, under due management, on a
large scale, and with sufiicient age. Wines of the
Hock quality could be equally well produced here
in the same way.

Many trials must yet be made before we can
hope to appreciate the extent of our resources in
this manufacture. It is more than probable, that
different Grapes, even in their immature state,
would produce different Wines ; but these trials
must be left to the efforts of individuals, and to
the necessarily slow progress of experiment.

With regard to the management, it must be
founded on the operations followed in the Wine
countries, and of which a sufticieiitly full account
for all purposes of practice,' has already been
given. It is, in the (irst place, obvious, that the
Grapes should be suffered to remain on the Vines ■
while there is any hope of gaining an accession
either of strength or sweetness. They should
then be carefully «eparat"l from ihe stem* ; those
which are rotten, or mouldy, should be at the

91

same time rejected. Some judgment will be re-
quired ill proportioning the fruit to the water in
the first instance, and to the sugar in the second.
I have before said, that the Grape when ripe, con-
sists of sugar, combined with vegetable extractive
matter, or the fermenting principle, and certain
salts, besides the astringent and flavouring matter.
As the colour is not developed in the immature
Grape, it need not be noticed here. But the
proportions of these ingredients vary materially,
accqrdmg to the state of maturity of the fruit.
As a great part of the saline and other constitu-
ents of the Grape, appear to be converted into
sugar during the process of maturation, it is plain
that, weight for weight, there will be more of
these principles contained in the immature, than
in the mature fruit. To form therefore a 7)iust,
of such quality as shall resemble the natural
7m(st of ripe fruit, it is necessary that water
should be added to the immature juie^ for the
purposes of diluting, and thus diminishing the
proportions of those saline matters, which would
otherwise confer on the Wine a degree of harsh-
ness, difficult to overcome.

As it is impossible to give positive rules to
meet the infinitely varying and undefinable de-
grees of maturity, in which the Grape may be
used, and as such rules would in fact but ttiid to
mislead, I shall content myself in laying down

92

some general principles, leaving the application
to the iiig. nuit)' and observation of the operator.
If the object be to produce Wine which shall
resemble Champaign, or the White Wines of
Bordeaux, a small proportion of crude Grapes
■will be required. Grapes barely halt grown, re-
quire, for the production of Wines of this class,
to be used in the proportion of equality to waler.
If they are more grown, the proportion of Grapes
may be increased ; if less, it may be diminished.
If ihe intention is to make a Wine resembling
Hock, the proportion of Grapes must be materi-
ally increased, and the Wine then, harsh, austere,
and not drinkable, when new, will by a few years
residence in the cask, undergo that amelioration,
which time alone can give. To the proportions
which I have described, varying quantities of
sugar may be applied. A proportion of two
pounds to the gallon of mixture, will yield a very
light Wine of no great durability, resembling (un-
der the proper treatment) the inferior classes of
Champaign Wines. An increase of the sugar to
three pounds, will yield a Wine equal in strength
to the best sorts of Champaign, or if fermented
to dryness, to the strongest of the White Wines
of Bordeaulc. Larger doses of sugar will doubt-
less yield Wines of different qualities, but of such
proportions, 1 cannot speak from experience. I
may only caution the operator who shall under-

93

take these trials, that larger quantities of sugar,
require larger proportions of fruit ; if it be his in-
tention to work the Wine to dr) ness, as the quan-
tity of fruit above mentioned, is but barely sufli-
eient to convert the proportion of three pounds
above named. With regard to the durability ol
these Wines, I may add, that I have kept them
for seven years, and all that time with evident
improvement. I should consider them as little
liable to destruction, as Wine of the very best
fabrique. While on the subject of sugar, I may
also say, that the general cause of failure in those
Wines which are made in this country, from ripe
Grapes, is the deficiency of sugar, and that even
these, would be much improved by an addition
of it. It is owing to this deficiency, that these
Wines are perishable, and easily converted into
Vinegar, the natural must being too aqueous to
produce a durable Wine. The proportion of sugar
need not be large in these cases, as before remark-
ed ; but no positive rules can be given for it,
since it must vary with the maturity and saccha-
rine quality of the fruit; circumstances which dif-
fer in almost every season.

Two modes of management may be adopted
with regard to the fruit, either subjecting the
skins to fermentation or not. In the first case, a
greater degree of austerity will be the conse-
quence, and the Wine will vary in its qualities..

94

If the object be to make a Wine resembling
Champaign, the skins may be separated previous
to the fermentation. If this manufacture be con-
du>ted on a large scale, the result of the second
pressing may be reserved to make a distinct
Wine. If on a small one, it may either be mixed
with the first, or rejected altogether.

The methods of conducting the fermentation,
as well as all the after management, need not be
repeated here, as they are to be found in the be-' ,
ginning of this essay. From these, the operator
will be directed to the several sorts of Wine he v
may wish to make. It is equally unnecessary to
repeat, that Wines produced in this way, may be -
modified either in flavour orcolour, by the several
expedients already detailed. But let me again
inculcate, that the Wine 7S not made, when the in-
gredients have been introduced into the vessel. It
is then, that the labour begins, and nothing but -
care and attention to every part, and every minute
circumstance of the subsequent processes, can ensure
satisfaction, and produce valuable results.

To such uses may the immature fruit of the Vine
be converted, but the capacities of that plant are
not even yet exhausted. Situations may be found
in this country, where the Vine may not produce
even immature fruit ; yet still it can be directed
to the end of Wine making. Chemical examina-
tion has proved that the young shoots, the tendrils,

95

and le&ves of the Vine, possess properties and con-
tain substances exactly similar to the crude fruit.
It was no unnatural conclusion that they might be
used for the purposes of making Wine. Experi-
ments were accordingly instituted in France for
this purpose, and they have been repeated here
with success. From Vine leaves, water, and Su-
gar, Wines have been thus produced in no respect
differing from the immature fruit, and consequent-
ly resembling V\ ines of foreign growth. The few
experiments that I have tried have been eminent-
ly successful. No further rules can be given re-
specting the management of the leaves, in addition
to those I have laid down for the'treatment of un-
ripe fruit. Similar proportions and similar man-
agement will, in both cases, produce similar ef-
fects. The leaves, however, scarcely ) ielding any
thing to the press, required to be infused in the
water for some days before they are subjected to
fermentation, and they seem to yield their solu-
ble parts most readily to boiling water without any
material alteration in the result. The leaves of
the Claret Vine thus treated produce Wine of a
delicate red colour. Tartar appears also a use-
ful addition in this case, and it may be added in
half a pound to one pound to ten gallons o( must.
One advantage results from the use of leaves ; this
is the great facility with which they are produced
during the growth of the Vine. By this the pro-

96

duce of a small Vineyard in leaves alone will be
ab'indant, and even that of a single Vine will be
as great as is required for the use of most families,
should they make this Wine for their sole con-
sumption. Let it always be remembered, that in
all these cases the price of the Sugar is the price of
the Wine. The expense of utensils and labour is
comparatively trifling, and when the manufacture
is on a small scale, scarcely worthy of regard.

I have thus brought to a conclusion the remarks
which I purposed to make on the Art of Wine-
Making. That I have offered so little from my
own experience, will be pardoned by those who
consider that each experiment must extend to a
period of one or two years, and that the labour of
a life would be insufficient to reduce every one of
these suggestions to practice, ft will be enough
that they are all readily deducible from others,
or from fair analogies taken from established rules
of practice, in the Wine countries. The co-ope-
ration of many, to which I may hope this essay
will afford additional facilities, will in time im-
prove this practice to the degree of perfection of
which it is capable, and establish it on a sure and
solid basis.

As numbers who may wish to make Wine, will
not be at the trouble of going through the preced-
ing essay ; and if they did, perhaps would be un-
able to follow all the principles laid down, I have

97

thought it best to add the following receipts, to
bring the whole into a more compact view ; but
still there must be much left to the attention and
skill of the operator.

TO MAKE WINE FROM IMMATURE GRAPES.

Although they will make Wine in any stage of
their growth, I would advise them to be left on
the Vines until they have attained their full growth.

The following Receipts are for ten gallons of
Wine, which may be increased to any quantity by
taking the fruit, &;c. in proportion.

To a tub of the capacity of fifteen ^r twenty gal-
lons, take forty pounds of immature Grapes, (no
matter for the variety, or whether wild or culti-
vated,) and bruise them in successive portions, by
a pressure suflicient to burst the berries without
breaking the seeds ; and as there is no bad flavour
in the green skins or stems, it is not necessary to
separate them. Fourgallonsofwater are then to
be poured into the vessel, and the contents are to
be carefully stirred and squeezed in the hand un-
til the whole of the juice and pulp are separated
from the solid matters. The materials are then
to remain at rest from six to twenty-four hours,
when they are to be strained through a coarse bag,
by as much force as can be conveniently applied
to them. One gallon of fresh water may after-
9

98

wards l)e passed through the mare,, for the purpose
of removing any soluble matter which may have
remained behind. Thirty pounds of white sugar
are now to be dissolved in the juice thus procured,
and the total bulk of the fluid made up with water,
to the amount often gallons and a half. The li-
quor thus obtained is the artificial must, which is
equivalent to the juice of the ripe Grape. It is
now to be introduced into a tub of sutficient capa-
city, over which a blanket or similar texture, co-
vered by a board, is to be thrown, the vessel being
placed in a temperature varying from 55 degrees
to 60 degrees of Farenheit's thermometer. Here
it may remain for twenty-four hours or two days,
according to the symptoms of fermentation which
it may show, and from this tub it is to be drawn off
into the cask in which it is to ferment ; when in
the cask it must be filled nearly to the bung-hole,
that the scum which arises may be thrown out.
As the fermentation proceeds, and the bulk of the
liquor in the cask diminishes, the superfluous por-
tion of mM5^ which was made for this express pur-
pose, must be poured in, so as to keep the liquor
near the bung-hole. When the fermentation "be-
comes a little more languid, as may be known by a
diminution of the hissing noise, the bung is to be
driven in, and a hole bored by its side, into which
a wooden peg is to be fitted. After a few days
^is peg is to be loosened, that if any material

99

quantity of air has been generated it may have
vent. The same trial must be made after succes-
sive intervals, and when there appears no longer
any danger of excessive expansion, the spile may
be permanently tightened.

The Wine thus made must remain over winter
in a cool cellar, as it is no longer necessary to pro-
voke the fermenting process. If the operator is
not inclined to bestow any further labour or ex-
pense on it, it may be examined in some clear and
cold day towards the end of February or beginning
of March, when, if it is fine, as it sometimes will
be, it may be bottled without further precautions.
To ensure its fineness, however, it is a better
practice to rack it into a fresh cask towards the
end of December, so as to clear it of its first lees.
At this time also the operator will be able to de-
termine whether it is not too sweet for his views.
In this case, instead of racking it, he will stir up
the lees so as to renew the fermenting process,
taking care also to increase the temperature at the
same time. At whatever time the Wine has been
racked otf, it is to be fined with isinglass. Some-
times it is found expedient to decant or rack it a
second time into a fresh cask, and again to repeat
the operation of fining. AH these removals should
be made in clear, dry, and if possible, cold wea-
thei ; in any case it must be bottled during the
month of March,

J 00

I'he Wine thus produced will generally be brisk,
and s'milar in its qualities to the Wines of Cham'
paign, with the strength of the best Sillery.

Inattention, or circumstances which cannot al-
ways be controlled, will sometimes cause it to be
sweet, and still at others to be dry.

Variations of the Process described above,

' The skin of the Grape or the whole mare, as:
well as the juice, may be fermented in the vat,
along with the sugar in the first stage of the pro-
cess. The fermentation will thus be more rapid,
and the Wine prove stronger and less sweet, but
it will acquire more flavour.

If it is wished to have a very sweet, as well as
brisk Wine, the quantity of sugar may be in-
creased.

If the Wine is intended to be less sweet, and
less strong than in the first case, the sugar must
be reduced to twenty-five pounds. Thus made,
it will rarely fail to be brisk, but will, at the same
time, be less durable. Wines of this construction
will resemble the inferior classes of Champaign,
and must commonly be consumed within the
twelvemonth.

The proportion of fruit adapted in this receipt,
is that in common use, but to ensure briskness
without excessive sweetness, it is recommend-
ed to increase the proportion of fruit to fifty

101

pounds, when the sugar is thirty. If, during the
feirnent;itio(i of Wine thus formed, there should
ap|)ear aiij danger of the sweetness vanishing al-
together, it may be decanted, and the fermenta-
tion then checked by fining. Thus it will be spee-
dily fit for use.

Wine from immature or ripe Currants, may be
made in the same manner as above, and with the
same proportions of sugar, &ic.

TO MAKE WINE FROM RIPE GRAPES.

If Wine is made from ripe Grapes, no water is
to be used, but while the Vines are young, the
juice of the fruit is generally deficient in sugar;
it is necessary that a quantity of sugar, varying
from one to two pounds for each gallon of imist,
should be added to it, and this in proportion to th3
iireateror less sweetness of the fruit.

When your Grapes are perfectly ripe, have
them gathered and picked oil' the bunches, reject-
ing all the unripe and unsound ones ; then bruise
them with a light beetle, or in any other way with-
out breaking the seeds. (If the skin is broke, it
is sufiicient :) then if your quantity be sufficient,
put them into an hogshead with one head out,

which 1 shall call a vat, and after stirring them
9*

102

twice or thrice, the first 24 or 36 hours, accord-
ing to the temperature of the weather : then let
them stand after the last stirring, from two to six
days, to dissolve the colouring matter in the
skin and the pulp, if they have any. The skins
and seeds will rise to the top of the liquid in the
vat, and by examining them once or twice a day, it
is very easy to discover when the dissolubleparts,
&c. is dissolved. Then from a hole in the side
of the vat near the bottom, draw ofi'all the fluid,
which must be done before the skins begin to
sink, when the juice or liquor will run off clear —
But it may be proper to remark, that the sooner
it is drawn off after the soluble parts are dissolved
the better; it will be less likely to run into
the acetous fermentation, or become musty. When
you draw off this liquor, put it immediately into
a cask well scented with sulphur, running it
through a sieve to prevent any seed or any thing
else that may come off with the fluid. And as
it will have gone through a considerable de-
gree of fermentation in the vat, it will be best
to bung the cask tight at once, and bore a small
gimblet-hole near the bung, in which put a wood-
en peg, which must be drawn for a few minutes,
every two or three days, to let the generated aip
escape, during the first month, when it may be
drove in tight and permanently. If your fruil has
been taken from young Vines or from wild ones.

103

either from the fields or woods, it will be necessa-
ry to put oiifi or two pounds of clean moist sugar,
to every gallon of liquid. But if it should happen,
that your cask should lack two or three gallons of
being full, it may be filled with water in which
three pounds of Sugar to each gallon has been
dissolved ; or if your cask is nol full from the li-
quor drawn from the vat, you may press the skins
and seeds, so as to get all the juice remaining
which you may put into your cask with the other
juice ; but in this case, you must leave out the
bung for from six to ten days, that the leaven or
mucilage may escape at the bung-hole, filling it
every day once or twice with the same liquor, af-
ter which, it must be bunged up tight, and man-
aged in the manner above described. When you
do not bung your cask from the vat, it is unneces-
sary to sulphur the cask in the first instance. But
from my experience, I think the Wine is never
so delicate nor good when what is pressed from
the skins and seeds is mixed with what runs clear
from the vat, and is at the same time more diffi-
cult to manage: so that where there is quantity
sufficient, it is best to make a separate Wine of it.
In the month of December, in a clear cool day,
rack offyour Wine into a clean sweet and sulphur-
ed cask, and at the same time fine it with isinglass j
but if your Wine is too sweet, and you wish to
have a dry Wine, stir up the lees without racking'

it, when it will undergo another fermentatron, iq
the close cask ; and in the latter part of the month
of January, rack it off into a sulphured cask, and
fine it with half the quantity of fining used the first
time. In March it may either be bottled or rack-
ed into a clean sulphured cask, and a small por-
tion of fining again put to it. And in the latter part
of May, if all the vegetable extract or leaven has-
not been separated from it by the racking and fin-
ing, it will undergo a moderate fermentation ; when
this takes place, it will then be necessary to rack
it and fine it again, with a very small quantity of
fining, and after it has settled down fine and bright,
it will keep for any length of time.

To those who have not leisure or are not dis-
posed to take all this trouble, and who like strong
Wine, may put Brandy with it when drawn from
the vat, in the proportion of fro; • one twelfth to
one eighth, probably ten per cent, or one tenth
may be the better quantity, and in going through
the fermentation in the cask, it will mix with the
Wine, and become Vineous, but it ought to be
clear of all taste, if possible to get such.

i^^^^H®!

ON THE MAKING OF WINE.

Extract of a letter from the late Joneph Cooper,
Esquire, of Kcw Jersey, to Harrison Hall^
Esquire, Editor of HalPs Distiller. Second
edition, page 279.

•' I gather the Grapes when fully ripe and dry,
separate the rotten and unripe from the others,
and press for distillation, if the quantity is worth
attending to. I then open the cider mill, so as
not to mash the stems or seeds of the Grapes,
then run them through, put the pumice or mashed
Grapes on some clean, long straw, previously
made damp, and laid on the cider press floor, lap
it in the straw, press it well, then take off the
pumice, and add some water, or I believe sweet,
uiifepmented cider would be better,* and answer
in lieu of sugar. After it has soaked awhile, (but
do not let it ferment in the pumice) press as be-

* Whenever I mixed Cider with the Grape juice, it invariably
run into tlie acetous feimentation, witliout there was nt least
one fifth of Brandy added to it, and tlien was good fornothin^.

J. A. '

106

fore, put all together, and add sugar, till it is -au
agreeable sweet. I have found a pound to the
gallon, sufficient for the sourest Grapes, and white
Havana sugar the best ; but sweet Grapes make
the best Wine, without any sut^ar." ^

"I have heretofore reconnmended putting the
sugar in, after fermentation ; but on experience,
find it not to keep as well, and am now convinced
that all the saccharine matter for making Wine,-'
should be incorporated before fermentation. Pre-
Tiously to fermentation, I place the cask three or
four feet from the floor ; as the filth works out,
fill it up twice or more times a day, till it emits a
clear froth, then check the fermentation gradually,
by putting the bung on slack, and tighten it as the
fermentation abates. When the fretting has near-
ly ceased, rack it off; for which purpose, 1 have
an instrument nearly in the shape of a woodea
shovel, with a gutter in the upper side of the han-
dle ; place it so as to prevent waste, and let it
dribble into the tub slowly, which give the fret-
ting quality an opportunity to evaporate, tran-
quilizes the liquor, and hastens its maturity.
When the cask is empty, rince it with fine gravel,
to scour off the yeast that adheres to it from fer-
mentation ; then for each gallon of Wine, put in.
one pint of high proof French or Apple Brandy,
fill the cask about one third, then burn a sulphur
match in it ; when the match is burnt out, stop

107

the bung-hole, and shake it to incorporate the
smoke and hqiior, fill the cask and place it as be-
fore, and ill about a month rack it again as direct-
ed above. The gravel is unnecessary after the
first racking. If the match should not burn the
first racking, repeat it, and if it don't taste strong
enough to stand the hot weather, add more Bran-
dy. I have racked my Wines three or four times
a year, and find it to help its ripening : have fre-
quently had casks on tap for years, and always
found the liquor to improve to the last drawing."
" Being fully of opinion that our common wild
Grapes are capable of producing Wine as good
and as palatable, (prejudice aside) and far more
wholesome than the Wine imported at so great
an expense ; and a supply of that article being
very uncertain. I am induced to urge the making
of Wine of all tht; native Grapes that can be pro-
cured ; and in collecting them, to notice the
Vines th;it produce of the best quality, and which
are most productive, as this will enable persons
to select the best Vine to cultivate and propagate
from. This ought to be particularly attended to,
as there are many Vines which produce good
Grapes, but few in quantity, and others very pro-
ductive, but of bad quiilily ; and I believe full
half the number that come from seed, are males,
and will never bear fruit."

108

Extract of a letter from Joseph Cooper, Esqinrt,
to Doctor James Mease, Secretary of the Agricul'
tural Society, Philadelphia, Vol. \. page 253.

** A circumstance ought to be considered, re-
9pecting Grapes ; they will produce fruit from
the seed in a fourth part of the time that an
apple or pear will, and from a cutting, as soon as
^ peach from the stolie ; as to grafting, I never
tried it till last ^year. Having a Vine in my gar-
den producing Grapes not to my liking, I grafted
it with the " Powell"* Grape, and instead of
claying, plastered it with a composition of bees-
wax, tallow, and rosin. Two scions grew, and
produced six bunches of Grapes the same sum-
mer ; some of the branches grew more than twen- ,
ty feet in length, and the two scions have in one
summer formed a top, sufficient, if but reasonably
full, to produce a bushel of fruit." Dated Feb
ruary 22nd, 1808.

The conclusion of Mr. Cooper^s letter to Mr. Hall.
" I am confident, that an acre of land, properly
planted, and cultivated with the best native Vines
that can be found within a few miles of any farm
house in New- Jersey, or perhaps any State in the

* Now calle(i the Bland Madeira,

109

Union, would produce Grapes sufficient to make
fifteen hundred gallons of Wine anHually.*

* This will undoubtedly appear to many, a mere flight of fan-
cy, or an exaggeration beyond probability, consequently will
be little attended to. Notwithstanding which, I am inclined to
think he is nearly correct. I knew Mr. Cooper well, having
been in habits of intimacy with him, for upwards of twenty
years. He was a very respectable practical farmer, and lived
on the bank of the river Delaware, opposite the City of Phila-
delphia. Every thing he did in the farming way, was Hone
in the neatest and best manner. He has also given some new
ideas, on the raising and saving of seeds, which are published in
Darwin's Phythologia. And, to shew that he is correct, or nearly
30, in the above assertion, I state the following facts. Mrs. Scholl,
who keeps a public house at Clarksburgh, Montgomery county,
Maryland, has a Grape V^ine in her garden, which I pruned, (for
the sake of the cuttings) in February, 1819, and about the 10th
of September, the same year, I went to see the fruit, as I had
heard a great deal about the quantity and quality of it. Most
of the Grapes were then ripe, and there happened to be several
ladies an 1 gentlemen tliere at the time, travelling for health or
pleasure. I lequested the gentlemen to give, me their opinions
as to the quantity of Grapes then on the Vine. One said he
thought there was as many as would fill four flour barrjels,
others said they thought there might be from eight to ten
bushels ; my own opinion was, there might be eight bushels. I
measured the arbour the Vine grew on, it was sixteen. feet long,
seven feet high, at the sides, and eight feet wide, and as the
top formed the segment of a circle, it might be about twelve or
eighteen iuches higher in the centre. The Vine grew on the
north side of the arbour and extended the whole length of it,
covered the whole of the top, and several branches hung down
on the south side of it, from eighteen inches to two feet below
the top of the out side post* on the south, and all the brandies
were full of Grapes, having from fifteen to thirty bunches on
10

110

Extract of a letter from the late James Anderson,
Esqr. L. L. D. and F. R. S. to Mr. Mathews,
Secretary of the Bath and West of England So-
ciety for the encouragement of Agriculture, <^c.
on the Making of Wines, S^-c,

" From our own limited practice, I have been
able only to ascertain two points that I think can

every bearing shoot ; for in pruning, I pruned none of the shoots
to less than eight, and from that to fifteen eyes on a shoot,
■where it grew strong and vigorous. Suppose an acre of
ground was planted in arbours ten rods long, and the rows one
rod apart, tiiere would be sixteen surh. arbours on an acre, and
less than half the ground occupied, for there would be eight
and a half feet between the outside of one aibour, to the be*
ginning of the other. Consequently, the arbour would be ten
times as long as Mrs. Scholl's and a few feet to spare ; and to
keep within all bounds, I will say there was but three bushels of
Grapes on one rod in length, there would be thirty bushels in
the ten rods ; and sixteen such rows, atthiriy bushels each, will
make four hundred and eighty bushels of Grapes on one acre,
and at two and a half gallons of Wine to each bushel, though
I know there would be more, would make twelve hundred
gallons from an acre.

I am conscious that many will smile at this calculation, and
look on It as a mere puflf. But I will pledge myself, that if any
gentleman will plant that kind of Grape in a rich border of
his garden, and train it on an arbour of that size, and prune it
properly, he can satisfy himself that much more may be raised
off that space of ground in five, if not in four years.

J. Johns-ton, Esquire, near Frederick-town, Maryland, has
■a trellis about ten rods long, I slept it several times, and made
h fifty-five yards ; it is about sereo feet high, and covered with

Ill '

be relied on, as tolerably well established. These
zre, first, that age, I mean not less than three years,

olevon Vines, which completely covers the trellis. It faces the
south, and when I was last there, all the shoots were full oC
Grapes, and it was conjectured there were thirty bushels on it
then ; the bunches began within t-ighteen inches of the ground,
and all the south side was very full to tlie top of the trellis, and
some hung down on the north side over the top rail. Now, to
keep witiiin bounds, I will say, there were twenty bushels of
Grapes ou the trellis as it stood perpendicular, there could bo
twenty-two such rows of trellis on an acre of ground, at twelve
feet apart, which will make four hundred and forty bushels of
Grapes, which at two and a half gallons of Wine to the bushel,
will make eleven hundred gallons to an acre. This is the same
kind of Grape, as Mrs ScholPs. A German Priest, wiio saw
Mrs. ScholPs Vine in full bearing and when ripe, pronounced
them the true Tokay, and said he saw the same kind growing
ill Tokay, in Hungary. My Grapes of the same kind, this last
year, produced me about three gallons of juice to a bushel of
bunches ; but they were gathered in the fullness of their juice.
And I think it probable, if I had let them hang on the Vine until
perfectly ripe, or until they became a little shrivelled, there
might be from one quart to three pints less juice to the bushel of '
bunches. Two or three such trellis' as Mrs. ScholPs, in a gar-
den, would supply a family with Grapes, tiie whole season of
Xhe Vintage, and also a considerable part of the winter.

Mr. Cooper's Vine, covered a surface of sixty feet by forty,
making two thousand four hundred feet. In the year 1807, it
yielded thirly-six and a lialf bushels of Grapes, which produced
ninety-one gallons of juico.

In 1 808, the blo>^soms and fiuit were destroyed by rose bugs.
I was there, and saw the devastation they were making t,n it.

In 1809, it yielded twenty six and a half bushels of GrapeSj
which produced eighty-five gallons of juice.

112

is required to elapse, before any Wine that is to be
really good, can attain such excellence a» to de-
serve the name of o-oocZ/ and, second, that it never
can attain that perfection, if spirits of any kind be
mixed with it. I apprehend most of our made
'.Vines are greatlj hurt bj not adverting to these
*wo circumstances.

" Another circumstance that is, in my opinion,
very neccssar)' for the formation of good Wine, is
a degree oi acidity in the fruit, without which, the

In 1810, it yielded forty-two and a half bushels of Grapes,
at one picking, (a bushel of bunches weighed thirty-four
pounds,) and produced one hundred and thirty gallons of juice.
Thus in four years, and one of these four years, the Grapes
failed entirelj', this Vine produced one hundred and five and a
lialf bushels of bunches of Grapes, and three hundred and six
gallons of juice, which averages seventy-six and a half gallons
a year. There are 43,560 square feet on an acre, consequently
there could be eighteen such arbours as Mr. Cooper''s, of two
thousand four hundred square feet to an acre But, to leave a
sufficiency of room, we will suppose there was but ten such to
an a«;re, to allow free circulation of air, &c. it makes an aver-
age of seven hundred and sixty five gallons to an acre, for four
years , but an acre to take them separately, in the year 1807,
produced nine hundred and ten gallons. In 1809, there would
liav.been eight hundred and fifty gallons, and in l8]0,there would
haVe been thirteen hundred gallons to the acre. Any. person
wishing fiirtlier information on this subject, I must refer him to
" The Artist's Manual ;'' " The Philadelphia Agricultural Me-
moirs,''or " Ilali's Distill-'r," published at Philadelphia, second
edition This latter book is the best work that I am acquainted
with on Distillation. J, A,

113

Wine never acquires the zest which constitutes its
peculiar excellence, but hurries forward too ra-
pidly into the state of Vinegar. Currants at all
times possess enough of that acidity ; but if goose-
berries be too ripe they are apt to want it, and
become insipidly sweet at an early period, though
they soon become vinegar. It ought to be re-
marked, that the native acidity of the fruit is
different from the acidity of vinegar, and possesses
qualities extremely dissimilar. The sourness of
vinegar, when it has once begun to be formed, con-
tinues augmenting loith age j but the native vegeta-
ble acid, when combined 7oith saccharine matter^ is
gradually diminished as the fermentation proceeds,
till it IS totally lost in the vinous zest, into which
both this and sugar are completely converted before
any vinegar is produced, if the fermentation be pro-
perly conducted.

" This I believe is a new opinion, which expe-
rience alone has enabled me to adopt not very
long ago. But I have so many experimental
proofs o( this fact, independent of the support it
derives from reasoning, that I am satisfied that it
is well founded. 1 am satisfied further, that the
Wines of this country are debased chiefly by not
advert'ng to it.

The quantity of fruit produced too, is so much
greater when the Vines are properly managed,
than can be gotten from the same extent of ground
10*

114

of other fruits, as to give it a decided preference
on the whole. I have just now in my cellar about
forty gallons of Wine, made from the Grapes that
were gathered from a wall fifteen yards in length
and fifteen feet high ; nor was the crop above the
average. Neither had that Wine above half the
quantity of sugar that other fruit Whines would
have required. I have no doubt that were Vines
raised from seeds of the best sorts, and carefully
selected when they come to bear, we might thus
obtain new varieties of Grapes, that would assimi-
late to our climate, and either suit for the table or
making Wine."* Mr. Anderson gathered those
Orapes before they were quite ripe, which made
sugar necessary.

* Mr. Anderson's Vine above mentioned, covers a wall of 675
square feet. Now, to plant Vines as I recommend them to be
planted, viz : in rows twelve feet apart, and the trellis six feet
high, there will be twenty-two rows of ten rods long each, on an
acre of ground, and on one row often rods long,' there will be
990 square feet of trellis, which multiplied by 22, the number of
rows on an acre, makes 21,780 square feet, which divided by
675 square feet, the size of Mr. Anderson's wall, makes 32 such
squares and a fraction ; and by multiplying this number by 40, the
number of gallons of Wine made by Mr. Anderson, makes l28o
gallons. This appears very extravagant, but if any gentleman will
be at the pains or trouble of making a border, (if I may so call
it,) of eight feet wide and two feet deep, of the best and richest
ioam he can get, or garden mold, and keep it rich, and train the
Vines ten feet high, in a serpentine manner, (of either of 4 kinds
ihat I cultivate,) as recommended by Mr. Forsylb, he may

115

In corroboration of what I have above stated,
I have General Swift's authority, (whose word
none will dispute,) see the American Farnrier, No.
45, Vol. 4, Page 359 and 360, wherein he says,
he had "about one thousand benches of Grapes
on a double trellis thirty yards long, weighing from
one quarter of a pound to a pound each, and near-
ly as many more were removed by trimming and
thinning." By planting the rows of Grapes at
sixteen feet apart, an acre of ground would hold
thirty such trellises, which I suppose is an arbour
about three feet wide ; and 1 suppose there would
not be more than half the ground occupied. Now,
the average weight of the bunches would be ten
ounces; but to keep within bounds, say the} weigh-
ed eight ounces each, one thousand bunches would
weigh 500 pounds. Thirty such trellises would
then have 15,000 pounds of Grapes if they all
bore equally well, which, at 50 pounds to the
bushel, would make 300 bushels, and at six and a
quarter cents a pound, would pioduce 937 dollars
and 50 cents. The thousand bunches taken off
by thinning and pruning I will suppose weighed

convince himself. I have thought it proper, (notwitljstanding
the sneers and ridicule I may be subject to for publishing such
apparent extravagancies,) to prevent some gimcrack genius
from coming forward some four or five years hence, to palm it
on the public as a new discovery, and endeavour to get a pa-
tent for it, J. A.

116

«ne fourth of the above weight, which will amount
to 3750 pounds, and each 50 pounds to make ten
gallons of Wine, according to a receipt in this
book, will make 750- gallons. The expense of
making the Wine would be the cost of one ton of
sugar, which, at 15 dollars per hundred weight,
would amount to 300 dollars. And suppose there
was 50 gallons of Wine composed of lees, and had
evaporated, and the Wine to sell for one dollar
per gallon, the account would stand thus :
1 5,000 lbs. of Grapes at 6 l-4centsper lb. ^937 50
700 gallons of Wine at $1 the gallon, 700 00

Total produce, - - - $1,637 50

Expense, — 1 ton of Sugar at $15 per
cwt. - - - 300

Labour, interest of capital, and decay
of the trellis, rent of land, manure,
&c. &c. say for one year, - 200 $500 00

Profit, - - - . $1,137 50

Such will be the profit of any person who lives
in the vicinity of our large cities, and will cultivate
the above Grape in garden culture, as also seve-
ral other kinds, as the Bland Madeira, Tokay, &:c.
This appears to be very extravagant, but 1 am
certain it may be accomplished on any rich, sound,
sandy loam, south oi the 4 1st degree of latitude,
and, for ought 1 know, still farther north.

117

But the most famous Vine we read of, is in a
Grape House ou the soutit side of Hampton Court
Palace, in England. — See Martin's edition of Mil
ler's Gardener's Dictionar}. Article V.

It is of the black Hamburgkind,and occupies the
whole house, which is 70 fe^t by 1 4. It wais plant-
ed in the year 1 76'.) ; the stem is about 1 3 inches in
girth, and the principal branch, having been trained
back at the exlremit}' of the house, is one hun-
dred and fourteen feet in length. This Vine has
been known to produce in one year, two thousand
and two hundred bunches of Grapes, weighing o»
an average one pound each.

I would advise every person having a farm or
garden, to plant some Vines, of the best he can
procure in his own vicinity, and others, where
hardy kinds may be had. A garden niay produce
enough for the table and some to make Wine.
There ought to be one Vine planted for every
pannel of fence he has round his garden. If
these are propcly trained and pruned, in four
ytars each Vine (if of good bearing kinds) will
produce from half a bushel to two bushels of
<i rapes in the bunches, and if they are of the
liiigc growing kind, such as the better kind of
Fox Grapes, or others of that size, you may make
from ten bushels of them, a barrel of ^Vinc. arid-
so in proportion.

118

The Grapes for the table may be trained up
against a house, stable, 'Ic*

To the farmer, my advice is, to plant one or
more acres in V^ines, and train them on trellis',
arbour fashion ; and with a little attention in
spring and summer, in pruning and keeping them
clear of weeds, he would be amply rewarded in
the autumn, by having Grapes enough to pro-
duce from 300 to 400 gallons of Wine for each
acre, according to .the goodness of the season.
And the quality of the Wine, (which will depend
much on a proper attention to making it) will be
worth from tifty to two hundred cents per gallon.
This I recommend as an amusement, for with a
very little additional industry and attention, with-
out interfering with his other pursuits or diminish-
ing in any degree his other crops, whether they be
grain, tobacco, cotton, &c. he will find it very
pleasing and very profitable.

There are particular situations and districts,
where it may be made a business of, and very
profitable to plant ten or more acres of Vines;
such as the piney sands of New-Jersey, and the
like kind of soil along our coast southerly, &c,
and where little or nothing can be cultivated.
But I am certain that on these lands, some kind
of manure will be wanted in the first instance to
give the Vines a fair start in their growth.

* The trellis ought to be seven or eight feet high at least.

119

These sandy lands will have the advantage ot"
all other in some respects; as thtj will throw up
fewer weeds, and will be easier worked or culti-
vated, than any other land.

MATCHING FOR WINE AND CIDER.

Melt brimstone in an iron ladle, and when
thorouj^hly melted, dip into it slips of coarse linen
cloth, take these out and let them cool. This is
what VVino coopers call a match. Take one of
these matches, and set one end on fire and put it
into the bung-hole of a cask, stop it loosely, and
thus suffer the match to burn nearly out, then
drive in (he bung tight, and set the cask aside for
an hour or two. At the end of this time examine
the cask, and you will find that the sulphur has
comiDunicated a violently pungent and suffocating
3C<Mi( to the cask, with a considerable degree of
acidity, which is the gas, and acid spirit of the
sulphur. The cask may after this be filled with
small Wine, cider, &c. which has scarcely gone
through its process of fermentation, and bung it
down tight, it will keep good and will soon clarify.
This is a very useful method for poor Wines. &lc,
which could not be kept for a (gw months without
it. Nor could stums be prepared in large quanti-
ties without this help. See Shaw's Lectures, page
191.

120

TO PRESS THE WINE.

Plant two strong posts in tlie ground, at least
twelve inches square, and mortice into those po&ts
two cross pieces of the same size, one near the
ground, and the other about five or six feet above
it. On the lower one make a floor the same as
that made for a cider press, on which put a square
crib that will hold from four to five bushels. If
you have not a haircloth, use a thin coarse piece
of linen or clean straw to put in the inside of the
crib, then put in your bruised Grapes, and after
filling it, put on some strong boards or plank,
that will go into the crib easily ; then lay across
the boards a strong piece of wood, and take a
jack screw and place it on the piece of wood last
mentioned, and -tgainst the upper cross piece,
you may press your Grapes or apples, if making
cider, in a few minutes, and do the work in a
much shorter tinrvc than with any of the cider
presses that I know of. Be cautious not to put
more Grapes or pummice than can be pressed
dry in the shortest time, which will be easily
found out by attention.

Those Grapes that have no pulp, may be press-
ed immediately after they are bruised, and I
would advise the juice to be strained through a
flannel, and if your cask is strong enough, bung
it up tight immediately. But if }ou have any
fears of yoi;r cask bursting, make a small gimblet

121

hole to give it vent, for the slower ^he fermenta-
tion goes on the better the Wine will be.

An extract of a letter from John Redman Coxe,
Esquire, dated Philadelphia^ March 5th, 1818.
" Having some fine Grape Vines in my garden,
"which afforded a luxuriant crop of Grapes last
fall, I was led to ascertain, with a few of the re-
maining bunches, how long I could leave them on
the Vine, notwithstanding the frosts of the season.
For this purpose, I selected about half a dozen
bunches, and pulled them at various dates, from
the early part of October, to the latter part of
November. They continued unaffected by the
frosts which, during that time took place ; the
only effect, was a very slight shriveling, and which
might have been anticipated, from the advanced
season of the year. In taste, I think they were
equal, if not superior to those antecedently gath-
ered.

" But an extension of the experiment occurred to
me, perhaps of more utility than the above, and
which may give rise to the preservation of this
dehghtful fruit amongst ourselves, for winter use,
as we preserve apples and other articles of horti-
cultural and agricultural industry.

" On the 2d of October, I carefully cut off a very
11

122

ijue bunch, and placed it in au earthen jar, cover
ing it completely with dry white sand, and put it
away, to be opened on Christmas day. On the
29th of the same month, another of the few re-
maining bunches was cut oif, and put away in a
similar manner, and was intended to be taken out
on the Ist of February. On Christmas day, about
twelve weeks from the time I gathered the first
bunch, it was taken out of the jar as firm and fresh
as when first deposited. The other was forgotten
until the 22d of February, when it was found
quite as sound and perfect as when it was pulled ;
from its having hung so much longer than the first,
it was, when taken from the Vine, rather shrivel-
ed, but this had not increased, from its long con-
finement of nearly three months. As to its taste
and excellence, it was equal to any before eaten,
and infinitely superior to those, which at so much
expense and trouble, are brought to us from Spain
and Portugal.
^' If a knowledge of these facts is spread through
the continent, we may hope that a few experi-
ments will soon determine the best time for pull-
ing them to the most advantage for preservation
during winter ; and if the Vineyards of Vevay,
&c. which are so celebrated, can aflbrd a supply
for our winter's use, we may soon have a new
species of commercial intercourse,^ which will

123

prove beneficial to the cultivator, and preclude
the necessity of foreign importation."

The manure that I think best, is the virgin
mould from the woods, mixed with rotten dung
and a small portion of wood ashes. And I find
the Vines facing the east and south cast, grow
much more vigourcusly than in any other ex-
posure.

**< It has been stated that two millions of Arpents
are taken up in the cultivation of the Vine, in

France, producing, one year with another, five
hogsheads of sixty-three gallont. to the acre j
which, at the moderate price of fifty francs, or
ten dollars the hogshead, gives one hundred mil-
lions of dollars. This produce is immense ; and
what renders it still more valuable^ is, that it does
not lessen the quantity of other nfCfssary produc-
tions, such as reheat, ^c. for where the Vine gene-
rally grojos in France, nothing else zoill grow
such is the poverty of the soil generally employed
for Vines.

* The French expect to produce five hogsheads, or 315 gallons,
which iscqualtoone of our acres produring 373 gallons.

r!?4

" I shall conclude these hastj observations by
an extract from Rozier :

' The Vine is a plant whose transpiration and
suction is abundant and vehement^ lohich suffi-
ciently indicates the soil and epcposition natural to
it* For this reason, grounds composed of sand,
gravel-stones, and rotten rocks, are excellent for
its cultivation,

' A sandy soil produces a fine pure Wine. The
gravelly and stony a delicate Wine. Rotten and
broken rocks, a fumy generous Wine, of a superior
quality*

' A rich, strong, compact, cold, or humid soil,
wliicbis pressed down by the rains, and which the
sun hardens or bakes, is essentially prejudicial to
the quality of the Wine.

' The most advantageous exposition for the
Vine, is that of a gentle slope, or side of a hill,
facing east and south, on which the rays of the
s'in continue the longest tirae.

' Hills, in the neighbourhood of the ocean and
rivers ought to be preferred to all others. The
lower parts of these hills are not so favourable to
the Vine as the upper, and neither are equal to
the middle region, the soil being the same.

' All trees are unfriendly to the Vine, as much
iVom their roots as their shade.. All who cultivate
ihe Vine, should remember this precept of Virgil t
• Apertos Bacchus amat colics'* — ■' The Vine flou-
rishes in the open unshaded hills.'

125

On the Grape Vine, with its JVincs, Brandt/, Salt.".
and Dried Fruits.

The following copy of an original letter, from
an observing and intelligent young American tra-
veller, will present us with an interesting opening
of the subject of Spanish Wines. It is not the
worse for being more than fifteen years old, as
authorities should exhibit various times and pla-
ces, in an inquiry which proceeds in the form of
an induction of particulars. The writer mentions
those Vine countries of Europe from which the
North American Cohnuila probably obtained its
Vines, Grapes, Vine-dressers, Distillers of Bran-
dy, and the dryers of its raisins.

" Cadiz, 'iAth March, 1804.

" Knowing that any information respecting the
culture of the Vine will be acceptable to you, I
nnd satisfaction in communicating what little I
have been able to collect here.

" In the Vineyards of this country arc cultiva-
ted several sort? of Grape, such as are called
Palomino, Pedro Ximencz, Perruno, Canocaro,
Bejeriego, Muntcro, Abbilln, Alisantc, Moscatel
merudo,* Moscatel, gordo,t and several other
kinds which it is not necessary to particularize.
The culture of them all is the same, and as fol-

* Small, t Large.

11*

126

iovrs :— ^During the summer months, the land on
which you intend to plant the Vines is dug, by
some three-quarters, by others one yard, and by a
few five-quarters. In the month of January, the
plants are put in the ground in two ways, either by
making a hole with an iron-bar, or, with a spade,
or'any like instrument. When the plant is put in-
to the ground, care must be taken in filling up the
hole to tread the earth well about it. The plants
that are used arc young branches of the foregoing
year, which are taken off the old Vines at the
time of pruning; which is the space between
gathering the Grape, and the time they are likely
to shoot. The year after the Vine is planted,
you cut the stalk to a certain height, which ge-
nerally is done so that only five or six buds remain
on the stock above ground. You thus leave
the plant until it shoots, and after these are se-
cured from frosts, and other accidents, which can
destroy some of them, you cut off all the shoots
excepting the highest, and when the time of prun-
ing comes, you prune these shoots, leaving each
each of them only one bud, and then take your
choice of the two original buds that have shot the
year before, for your Vine to form a head. If the
highest is the best, you cut off the whole second ;
or if it is the lowest you prefer, cut off the highest
— and by that means leave only one. You must
eserj year prune your Vine, and for a certain

127

number of years, until you see it has grown strong
and healthy, you cut off the new branches, each
only one bud from the stalk ; and if any of these
branches have shot out of the way, so as to be
likely to spoil the head of your Vine, by having
shot lower, or are very weak, you cut them off;
or if two together, you lop off the feeblest, that
the other may gain more strength.

" When your Vine is eight or ten years old, and
the stalk is stout and strong, every year, when
pruning, you leave one of the best shoots of the
foregoing year, with about four or five buds ; as
the vigour and substance of these mature stalks,
are better able to nourish these members than
those of a less ripened age. The same sort of
Vine gives richer or poorer Wine, according to the
nature of the land in which it is planted. Wheat
land is not good for the Vine. The best is a
white chalky or clay land ; such as when it is first
dug comes out in large pieces, and has almost the
consistence of soft stones. The next is red clay, and
the last, and worst, is the saticli/. After you prune
you must dig the Vineyard, leaving a large square
hole to each Vine, that it may keep the rain.
This is done in Spain, on account of its being more
generally dry than wet. But if it lies on a low
piece of ground you then dig it, raising the earth
in rows between the Vines, parallel to one an-
other, that the rain may run off before the Vine

128

shoots. Again, you dig the ground and leave it
even, when the new shoots are strong enough to
bear going through the Vine ground without tear-
them off, you give it another digging, but shal-
low ; and when the Grape is near ripening, you
give it another very slight digging. (To save
labour, the plough, harrow, and horse hoe, may
be used, where land is abundant.)

" When your Vine shoots, you take off the bud
?hoots, as before directed. All young plants
must have sticks tied to them, to hinder them
from growing crooked. The long branches left
on the Vine must, after it has Grapes, be raised
from the ground, and supported with sticks, in
order both to be able to dig the ground, and to
prevent the Grapes from rotting, from the mois-
ture thereof. Vines very often shoot from the
very root. These 'shoots must be carefully ta-
ken away, that a young Vine should not root too
near the surface, which would expose it to be
parched up with the solar rays, and to have the
roots cut off when dug. Care must be taken eve-
ry year, when the hole is made about them, to
shave off all the young roots it may have. When
any of the Vines decay, it must be replaced by a
trancA of the next to it, which is done by leaving
this with two branches, digging a trench three-
quarters of a yard, or a yard deep, from one
to the other, then burying the Vine with two

•1^

branches, carrying one to the place of the de-
cayed, and leaving the other in the place of the
one buried. These are treated in every respect
as young Vines. It never will answer to set a
new plant amongst o/J Vines, for it cannot thrive.
The Vines are set in regular rows, similar to our
corn fields, at the distance of one yard and three
quarters apart.

" I will conclude with a few remarks on the
process of the juice of the Grape,

" The best Grapes for making Wine are Palo-
'mino, Pedro Ximenes, and Perruno ; The two first
are generally mixed together to be pressed, but
they will do separately. The first will then make
a very dry Wine, and the second a sweet Wine,
called ' Paharete.^ The Perruno is always pressed
alone, because it ripens after the others are ga-
thered. (This Grape will probably suit the most
so'ithern states of North America.) It makes a
very dry Wine, and of a good quality. Many peo-
ple dislike its culture on account of its ripening so
late 5 which makes the vintage liable to be spoiled
by rains. However, if the rain does not fall very
abundantly, it rather does good than harm. (May
not irrigation suit the Vine ?) At the time of
pressing, some chalk is thrown over the Grapes.
But this is done more with a view to give them a
kind of consistence, that they may adhere better
together when pressed, than from any idea of im-

130

proving the Wine. Yet I am not sure that it doea
not, in some degree, tend to give the Wine that
dryness^ which is so much admired.

In Wine o( young Vines you put about 1-1 5th
of boiled yi'ice of Grape, which has been reduced
to one-fourth its primitive quantity, and is quite
black, thick, and sweet, (resembling molasses,) in
order to give it the strength and richness it re-
quires. If you choose, or should perceive in your
Wines after the vinous fermentation is over, and
the ebullition has ceased, any weakness, you then
apply to them about one-thirtieth part of oil-proof
Brandy. Thus you will give them a body, make
them full the sooner, and preserve them from the
power of the warm weather.

" In addition to all this I must add, that it is ab-
solutely necessary to keep a constant watch over
them, and assist them with more Brandy if you see
that they stand in need thereof.*^

The mixture of different kinds of Grapes,
(the sioeet, or highly saccharine, with those not
Bweet,) mentioned in the foregoing letter, is wor-
thy of consideration. The proportions may re-
quire experience and judgment. The evapora-
tion of the watery parts of the fresh juice, by
the application of the proper degree of heat, 6e-
fore fermentation, is also well worthy of notice.
In the course of long and studious inquiries into

the causes of the fine full body of the best Wine of
Xeres, Sherry, famous since the days of Falstaff,
this mode of preparing that Spanish Andalueian
Wine, has been brought into view, from various
authorities. There can be no doubt of the fact.

FROM T. COXE, ESQ.

On the Cultivatio7i of the Vine, the Fabrication of
WineSf Brandies, Rectified Spirits of Wine, Cre-
Tnor Tartar, and Dried Fruits, and Fresh Grapes j
for Food and Diet.

Itis certain that the culture of the Vine and
the fabrication of Wines, is compatible with everj
industrious and successful prosecution of Agricul-
ture for general purposes. It has been consider-
ed in Europe, that no country more abounded ia
the necessaries for human comfort and subsistence,
than the dominions of the Emperor of German/,
in 1794, or Austria, Hungary, Bohemia, and Lom-
bardy. Yet these were all profitable Wine countries.
So of Switzerland, where grass lands, irrigated,
have been sold at one thousand dollars per acre.
So of Piedmont. So of France, in which Wine
and Brandy are made, in all its old provinces, ex-
cept Artois, Picardy, Normandy, and the middle
and northern parts of the two provinces of Bre-
tagne and Maine. In those north-west provinces,
the Grape, unfit for Wines, is elegant and fine f^r

132

sustenance and for diet. In the other twenty-tive o^
the ancient provinces, the Vine and the fabrication
of Wines generally prevail, occupying grounds of
the extent of less than half of New Jersey, yield-
ing a gross yearly income, of one hundred millions
of dollars. Yet wool, iron, silk, and flax, bread
and meat, builders' and improvers', and manufac-
turers' wages are lower in France than in the
United States. The Vine cultivation is then
perfectly compatible with a good general system
of national industry. The north of- Germany,
Silesia, Sweden, Denmark, England and the Ne-
therlands, only retrain from the Vine, because
they are too far north. So the northern British
provinces of America will nevercope with us in our
Vineyards, more than in our sugar, cotton, riccj
tobacco, and indigo plantations. Since all Vines*
were once wild, like all men and other animals, it
must be presumed, that it is our interest to culti-
vate all our wild Grape Vines. The wood or
natural meadow sirawherry, cultivated, in bunches
so as to hoe between the rows, is improved strik-
ingly in a year or two. So of the red Currant.
Rich, full coloured green or black Grapes, of the
largest and ripest, picked from the bunch, must
aflbrd the best means of propagating bt/ seed. In
Scotland, the red and white Currant, thus propa-
gated, has been trebled in goodness, beauty, and
size, for Currant Wine. ,v -'<•«,%.'.,;

133

The Grape has been manifestly intended by
Divine Providence, as a food and a diet for the
inhabitants of warm climates, and for more nor-
thern people in the hot season. So of its excel-
lent Vinegar, Salt or Tartar, and dried fruit. The
French and Spaniards keep their fresh Grapes as
we keep Apples ; and we constantly import fresh
or undried European Grapes into all our seaports,
where they are sold for 40, 50, and 60 cents per
pound. They might be sent from the Southern
States to those of the Chesapeake, like their sweet
and sour Oranges.

Extracts from Essays said to be written by Tench
Coxe, Esqr, on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine,
4^c, to which I will add some observations of my
own.

Extract from No. 1 .* — '* The present duties on
foreign distilled Spirits and liquors, (Brandy, Gin,
Rum, Arrack, Wines, &c.) and on dried fruits,
though laid for revenue, afford a great and sure
encouragement to the establishment and manufac-'
ture of the Grape. The demand will increase
with our population, and the facility and certain-

* I find the Grapes growing on the top of the hill ripen mote
equally sooner, and better, that on the side of a steep hill. But
where there is a slope, a south-east exposure appears to me tt
be best ; but all exposures from east to south are good.
12

134

ty of the culture of the crop, will grow with the
clearing and draining of our country. Ridges,
hills, mountains, rocky lands, and steep ground,
gravelly, stony, sandy, and other inferior lands,
(if only dry,) will yield profit in large crops, or in
fine qualities of Wine, or both ; fresh and dried
Gi:apes are both favourable to health and frugal-
ity. Ripe Grapes have been administered to
whole regiments of troops in France, who have
been ravaged by dysenteries and fluxes.* The
quantity of Wine computed to be produced in
France is ten millions of casks, of nearly 63 gal-
lons each, on two millions of arpents,! (not two mil-
lions of acres,) of land, often not fit for wheat,
rice, or tobacco, valued very low, on a medium
of fifty francs the cask or French hogshead. This
is three times the value of the cotton crop of the
United States, on a medium value, produced in
1818 or in 1819.

" It has been already observed, that ridges and
hills are the most suitable shape or form of coun-
try for Vineyards ; the most proper exposure is
from south-east to south. It is believed that all
southern exposures will do. The propagation may
be by seeds or by cuttings, (Of by bending and co-

* Doctor Tissott's Advice to the people of L9.tisanne.

tThe French measure their lands by arpents, which are not
EG large as our acres ; 2,000,000 of arpents are about 168,7,500
or our acres.

135

vering a part of an old vine, so as to make it grow
out in another place at a proper distance. The
plough is of much use in the cultivation, so that
care must be taken to plant the vines at such dis-
tance as to facilitate the use of the plough and the
harrow. The best Grapes which can be obtained
should be used, in order to put the culture for-
ward. These may be foreign or American, na-
tive or imported. A harsh Grape to the taste may
produce a better Wine than was expected, and
more and better brandy. The finest Grapes of
Europe and the African Isles are supposed to
have been native wildings improved by culture
and selection." " We pay annually ioforeignna-
tions a sum of money for Wines, Spirits, «nrf ma-
terials for making Spirits, and for fresh and dried
Grapes, as great as our whole specie medium,''"'

It is unnecessary to seek for more temperate
latitudes for the cultivation of the Vine. The way
is to drop most kinds of foreign Vines at once,
(except a few for the table,) and seek for the best
kinds of our largest native Grapes, and if proper-
ly managed there can be no doubt, but that we can
make as much Wine, if not more, than any part of
the world, on the same space of ground, as far north
rrs the ASiVdegree, if not further north, and of good

136

quality. I have eaten good Grapes at Presque Islf,
on Lake Erie, which is above the 42d degree and
the French officers were in the habit of making
Wine of them annually, while they had a garrison
at that place.

If any person will be at the trouble of looking
over A. Young, Esqr's. Travels through France,
he will find that all kinds of soil, from a heavy
clay to a blowing sand, and all exposures from
north to south, and from a dead level to the
steepest hills produce profitable crops of Grapes ;
for where the Wine is not fit for a pleasant bever-
age, it is distilled and turned into Brandy.

Extract from No. 7.* — " Further enquiry con-
cerning the Vineyard near Harmony, in Butler
County, Pennsylvania, about twenty-five miles
westward of Pittsburg, justify the remark that
the experiment has succeeded even so far north
as that place, in 40 degrees and 40 minutes."

As it may be expected, that 1 should say some-
thing about a Vigneron, k.c. I would barely re-

* There can be no question, but that good Wines may be
made as far north as our large wild Grapes ripen, with proper
t-ultivation and good management. J« A.

f37

eotnniend to every gentleman, to be principal
Vigneron himself, and to choose or select a clear
headed, handy, intelligent labourer, and one that
will do as he is bid. And as 1 have recommend-
ed grafting, I will insert what Cobbett, says on
that subject. See No. 48, Vol. 4, page 377, of the
American Farmer.

" Grafting is the joining of a cutting of one to
another tree, in such a way as that the tree, on
which the cutting is placed, sends up its sap into
the cutting, and makes it grow and become a tree.
Now, as to the way, in which this, and the way in
which budding is dotie, they cannot, upon any
principle consistent with common sense, become
matter of written description. Each is a me-
chanical operation, embracing numerous move-
ments of the arms, &ic. and is no more to be
taught by written directions than the making of a
chest of drawers is. To read a full and minute
accouiil of the acl of budding and grafting, would
require ten times the space of time, that it re-
quires to go to a neighbour and l6arn, from a
sight of the operations, that which, after all, no
written directions would ever teach."

" The season for taking off the cuttings for
grafts is any time between Christmas and March.
Any time after the sap is completely in a quies-
cent state, and before it be again in motion. When
cut off they will keep several months,''^
12*

138

" A great deal has been said about the season
for grafting f and Mr. Marshall tells the English,
that it must not be done until the sap in the stock
is just ready tofiow freely » He had never seen
an American negro man, sitting by a hot six plat-
ed stove, grafting apple trees in the month of
January, and then putting them away in his cave,
to be brought out and planted in April. I have
seen this, and my opinion is, that the work may
be done at any time between October and May ;
nay, I am not sure, that it may not be done all
summer long.* The cuttings, too, may be taken
off, and put on directly, and the sooner the bet-
ter y but in the winter months, they will keep
20od, oil' the tree for several monlhs."

The cuttings of Grape Vines will also keep
<rood, from November until the month of Mav.

* I have taken cuttings off Pear trees iu blossom and carried
them three soilos and then ingrafted them, and they all took and
;rew. *• ^'

A CATALOGUE OF GRAPES
in

THE VINEYARD OF JOHN ADLUM»

JS^ar Georgeto(ii7i, D. C,

No, 1. Hulm^s Orjvigsburgh Grape, said to be
a very fine white Grape ; they have not yet pro-
duced fruit with me.

No, 2, Bland^s Madeira ; In some places it is of
an amber colour, and in others a pale red, with
me they are a purple with a bloom on them. It
is a great bearer, and a good Grape for the table,
and makes a very fine Wine : the juice is sweet
and vineous.

No, 3. CliflorCs Constantia, This is a deep
purple approaching to black ; it is recommended
by some for the table ; it has a pulp in it, is a
great bearer, and makes a good Wine. It is said
to be brought from the Cape of Good Hope.

No. 4. Tokay. Where I got cuttings of this
Grape, they were of a beautiful lilack colour, and
a delicate taste for the table; with me they are
much higher coloured tha» they were at the pla-
ces I got them from, and have somewhat of a
musky taste, tolerable for the table. I'hey are
very great bearers, and make an excellent Wine.

140

Ab. 5. Schuylkill Muscadcl. These Grapes
were found originally near Philadelphia, and the
Schuylkill River ; and were introduced into Mr.
Penn's garden when he was Governor of Pennsyl-
vania before the Revolution. They are a variety
of the Fox-Grape, have a pulp which dissolves
in the fermentation, and they nnake an excellent
Wine.

JVb. 6. IVorthington Grape, This is somewhat
smaller than the Fox-Grape, is a very great bearer
has a very high coloured red juice ; I have not
had enough of them yet to make Wine separately,
but have mixed them with others, and I believe
they will add to the flavour of Wine and give a
good colour.

Ab. 7 4/- 8. Names unknown ; brought from
Muney, Lycoming County, Pennsylvania. I haye
been told they are very fine white and black
Grapes, but have not yet produced fruit with me.

JV*o. 9. Carolina Purple jytuscadine. I am as
yet ignorrant of the fruit it bears.

JVb. 10. Red Juice. It has not yet produced
fruit with me ; but I was informed it would make
a Wine similar to Claret.

A'b. 11. A Grape from North-Carolina, sent me
by an unknown Gentleman. It has the appear-
ance of the Bland Madeira, but is rather more
tender : it is a very sweet Grape with a fine vine-
ous juice.

HI

No. 1 2. An uncommonly large Fox-Grape, from
the neighbourhood of Elkton, Maryland ; it has a
very musky smell, and is full of a beautiful red
juice. I have not yet had enough of them to make
Wine.

J^o. 13. I got this for the true Madeira Grape,
the Vines grow luxuriantly, and appear to be har-
dy. The Grapes grow on long bunches, are of a
purple colour, and are not a good Grape for the
table ; they do not bear or ripen well with me,
but I expect they would do much better to the
southward.

J>fo. 14. Malmsey f a very fine white Grape,
suitable for eating.

J\fo, 15, Purple Frontinac, This is a very high
flavoured Grape, but does not bear well with me ;
but expect they would do much better further
south. «

Ao. IG. Royal Muscadine. This appears to me
to be much like the Malmsey, a very fine white
Grape.

Ao. 1 7. Black Hamburgh. Has not yet pro-
duced fruit with me.

Ao. 18. Black Cluster. Has not yet produced
fruit with me.

Ab. 19. Syrian. Has not yet produced fruit
with me.

Ao. 20. Clapiers. Has not yet produced fruit
with me ; is said to be a very fine white Grape,
with bunches that weigh a pound.

142

J^o. 21. Miller Burgundy, or, Munier. A small
black Grape with oval berries, which grow very
thick on the bunch, with a sweet pleasant juice ;
very good for the table, and they nnake a good
Wine.

J>lo, 22. White Sweet Water, It is a large
white Grape, they are very sweet ; when perfect-
ly ripe, they are of a russet colour, and it is one
of the best Grapes for the table,

I have several other kinds of Grapes, which
have not yet produced fruit, and as the labels
were lost before I had an opportunity of marking
them properly, I do not know how to name them.

As I find a demand for Grapes increasing, I in-
tend to get every variety of good Grapes I cao
procure in this and other countries, to suit the
States north and south of this.

DAVIS AWD FORCE, PRINT.