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MEMOIR NO. V. MENZIEHS’ JOURNAL OF VANCOUVER'S NOG, APRIL TO OCTOBER, 1792. Edited, with Botanical and Ethnological Notes, by C. F. NEWCOMBE, M.D., and a Biographical Note by J. FORSYTH. PRINTED BY AUTHORITY OF THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY. VICTORIA, B.C.: Printed by Wi~iiam H. CULLIN, Printer to the King’s Most Excellent Majesty. 1923. LISRNARY NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN Tha’m freasdal a fa’har nan treum. Coat of Arms of Menzies of Culdares, Meggernie, and Glenlyon and Stix, 1672. From a drawing by Sir David Menzies. 4 pVUw be PROVINCIAL LIBRARY, VictoriA, B.C., 1922. The Hon. J. D. MacLean, M.D., C.M., Provincial Secretary and Minister of Education, Parliament Buildings, Victoria, B.C. Sir,—I have the honour to transmit herewith the fifth memoir of the Provincial Archives Department, entitled “ Menzies’ Journal of Vancouver’s Voyage,’ April to October, 1792, edited, with notes, by Dr. C. F. Newcombe, a leading authority on the early exploration of the North-west Coast, and whose knowledge of the botany and ethnology of the district has been of greatest service in the preparation of this work. The original MS. journal of Archibald Menzies is in the posses- sion of the British Museum, but a certified copy is in our British Columbia Archives Department, which was acquired a few years ago. As the whole journal is a voluminous document, it was deemed advis- able for the present to publish only that portion which related to Vancouver Island and Puget Sound. In Memoir No. I, “The First Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island,’”’ Dr. Newcombe vindicated the contention of Captain Vancouver that his ships were the first to complete the navigaton of the inner channels which separate the island from the mainland of British Colum- bia, and this contention is borne out in Menzies’ journal. It is several years since the last Archives Memoir was issued, but with the great appreciation which is being accorded by students of British Columbia history it is hoped that we may be able to continue those publications more regularly. With your approval, the next bulletin will deal with early mining days on Fraser River and the Cariboo District, which should appeal to every one in the Province. His Honour Judge F. W. Howay, who has made a special study of this period in our history, and who is at the same time a recognized authority on the early history of the Pacific Coast, has very kindly consented to edit the memoir. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, JOHN FORSYTH, Librarian and Archivist. ILLUSTRATIONS. Factnc Pace. Archibald Menzies. From the painting by Eddis in the Linnean Society, London ie uy say NT MT Ean URN aa Vil. Mrs. Menzies, the wife of Archibald Menzies. From a miniature in the possession of C.D: \Geddes, Esq., Edinburgh (4), (naan XK, Stix House, Aberfeldy, Scotland, the birthplace of Archibald Menzies. From a photograph by E. Menzies-Fllis ........ Ba Meggernie Castle, the home of the Menzies of Culdares and Stix, in Glenlyon, Scotland. From photograph by Sir David IMPS ZIES BAU Ure SINE ERMC ian Oye ae Rr a xl Castle Menzies, near Aberfeldy, Scotland, where Archibald Menzies got) his) first lessons) in\(botay) aie e on ae Xii. Farewell letter of Archibald Menzies to his mother, March 30th, 1791. From a photograph by E. Menzies-Ellis ........... xiii. Archibald Menzies’ farewell message to his brother William, March 30th, 1791. Froma photograph by E. Menzies-Ellis ........ Xiil. Blanket-making, showing spinning and weaving on Vancouver Island) Prom a, painting) by Pauls Kanes. pu) ee ees aie 155 Indian tomb, showing canoe form of burial. From drawing by 1 A Ek io Ca ORC AS AML TE Ceca Atl Naf 155 BOTANICAL PLATES ACCOMPANYING APPENDIX. (Collected by Menzies in Alaska, but also found in Northern British Columbia.) Chimaphila Menziesti (R.Br.) Spreng. Menzies’ Wintergreen. From! Hooker; Hlor; Bor-Amer,) tly Pi 126.) meen ee eae reshe Gentsana Douglasiana Bongard. Douglas’ Gentian. From a draw- ing by Menzies in Hook., Flor. Bor.-Amer., II., Pl. 148. 1837 137 Menziesia ferruginea Smith. From Smith, J. E., Plant. Icon. Faed MTS PL 56.) EON ee ER MAAR NTS ae) iin a 139 Menyanthes crista-galli Menzies. From Hook., Bot. Miscell., L, Pll 24: (1628:"), (Drawing) bya Wienzies)) 2030) 0 A ae 141 Parnassia fimbriata Konig. From Hook., Bot. Miscell., I., Pl. 23. T9628) (Drawing by, Menzies iia e ik Vie Celta ea gal dale 143 Rubus stellatus Smith. Menzies’ Raspberry. From Smith, J. E., Plantarum con.) Tnedy Elsi GA mom au asthe aanee 145 Archibald Menzies. From the painting by Eddis in the Linnean Society, London. I ee | =‘ ; pe 5 a ‘cit "Ts 0 \ hee ee BIOGRAPHICAL NOTE. RCHIBALD MENZIES, Scottish botanist, explorer, and traveller, was born at Stix or Styx, an old branch house of the Menzies of Culdares about 4 miles west from Aberfeldy, Perthshire, Scotland, and was educated at Weem Parish School. According to the Weem Kirk register, he was baptised on March 15th, 1754. It is remarkable that nearly all the Menzies in the vicinity of Castle Menzies were either gardeners or botanists; an old record of proceedings shows that no fewer than seven of this name were employed at the same time at the Castle gardens. Sir David Menzies, of Plean Castle, to whom the writer of these notes is indebted for much information, in speaking of Castle Menzies, which was founded in 1057, says: “ When Sir William Wallace took shelter in the ancient portion of Castle Menzies, it had a castellated parapet running round its wall-head and flanking turrets, from which it could be defended by hurling missiles, arrows, etc. The first floor is supported on arches of stone, proof against any fire, as are also the walls, which are 7 feet thick in places; in them are secret rooms, one of which is the charter-room, where many of the deeds were preserved from destruction in the fire of 1502. These MSS. date back before the time of Wallace, as this part was built when the Barony of Menzies was founded by King Malcolm Canmore in 1057. It remained so till 1571, when the Armorial shield was inserted over the ancient doorway commemorating the marriage of the Chief to Barbara Stewart. This date, 1571, has nothing to do with the building of the Castle, ete. 1577 over the dormer windows is the date when the Castle was altered to its present condition.” It was in the gardens of this ancestral home that Archibald Menzies, the subject of this memoir, received his first lessons in botany, and where it was his privilege later to add many new varieties of trees which he had discovered during his travels. Many of these may be seen on the wooded sides of Weem Rock at the back of the Castle. On leaving home, Menzies journeyed to Edinburgh and as a botanical student entered the Royal Botanic Garden, where it may be mentioned his elder brother William was already employed. Menzies was also at this time studying for the medical profession, and attended the Edin- burgh University Botanic classes under Dr. John Hope, who is described as a genial and painstaking teacher and who took a deep interest in Menzies’ education. In 1778 Menzies made a botanical tour through the Highlands and Hebrides and later became assistant to a surgeon at Carnarvon. Vill. Menzies’ Journal. He subsequently entered the Royal Navy as assistant surgeon on board the “ Nonsuch,” under Captain Truscott, and took part in Rodney’s victory over the Comte de Grasse on April 12th, 1782. After peace was declared he served on the Halifax Station. In a letter of intro- duction to Sir Joseph Banks dated August 22nd, 1786, Dr. Hope says: “Mr. Archibald Menzies was early acquainted with the culture of plants and acquired the principles of botany by attending my lectures. He was particularly acquainted with the Scotch plants, of the rarest of which he made a collection for Doctors Fothergill and Pitcairn. He has been several years on the Halifax Station in His Majesty’s service as a surgeon, where he has paid unremitting attention to his favourite study of botany, and through the indulgence of the Com- mander-in-Chief had good opportunities afforded him.” Menzies’ first correspondence with Banks was while he was on board the “ Assistance’ at Halifax, N.S., from which place he sent botanical news and an assortment of seeds for the collection at Kew Gardens. Upon the arrival of the “ Assistance ” at Chatham, England, in August, 1786, Menzies sent up to London a small box of Acadian plants, together with a note to Sir Joseph, in which he promises to visit him in a few days, but says: ‘“‘ Meanwhile I am informed there is a ship, a private adventurer, now fitting out at Deptford to go round the world. Should I be so happy as to be appointed surgeon of her, it will at least gratify one of my greatest worldly ambitions, and afford one of the best opportunities of collecting seeds and other objects of natural history for you and the rest of my friends!” A few days later Menzies announces that he was happily appointed surgeon to an expedition round the world: “ Two vessels are going in company, a ship, the ‘Prince of Wales’ (commanded by Captain Colnett), and a sloop, the * Princess Royal.’ The proposed route is round South America and by the Japanese Islands to China, and then round the Cape of Good Hope homeward. Their chief object is the fur trade. But it is not allowed for the ship’s company to trade or barter for any curiosities.” He expresses the hope, however, that they would not be debarred from picking up curiosities if they came in their way, and asks Sir Joseph to intervene with Mr. Etches, who was the merchant and ship-owner. As a result of Sir Joseph’s influence Mr. Etches agreed to dispense with the restrictions in the case of Menzies, of whose conduct and manners he highly approved. The voyage of the “ Prince of Wales” round Cape Horn to the North Pacific Ocean occupied nearly three years. Menzies had sent home a consignment of plants and he had brought back the ship’s com- pany in perfect health, only one man having died. In a letter dated Mrs. Menzies, the wife of Archibald Menzies. From a miniature in the possession of C. D. Geddes, Esq., Edinburgh. Biographical Note. ix. July 14th, 1789, and written just before landing in England, he tells of an interesting discovery he made while on the west side of North America, as follows: “In a remote corner inland the natives had a short warlike weapon of solid brass, somewhat in the shape of a New Zealand pata-patos, about 15 inches long. It had a short handle, with a round knob at the end; and the blade was of an oval form, thick in the middle but becoming thinner toward the edges, and embellished on one side with an escutcheon, inscribing Jos. Banks, Esq. The natives put a high value on it; they would not part with it for con- siderable offers. The inscription and escutcheonal embellishments were nearly worn off by their great attentions in keeping it clean. To commemorate this discovery I have given your name to a cluster of islands round where we were then at anchor. In the course of a few days I shall have the honour of pointing out to you their situation and extent on a chart which I have made of the coast; as also of presenting you with a few mementoes from that and other parts of it. Till which I am, with due respect,” etc. Having attained some fame as a botanist, the British Government appointed him in 1790 as Naturalist to accompany Captain Vancouver in the “ Discovery” on a voyage round the world. He visited the Cape of Good Hope, Australia, New Zealand, the Sandwich Islands, and the North-west Coast of America. Owing to the sickness of Mr. Cranstoun, the surgeon of the “ Discovery,” Menzies was appointed in his place, and his services in this connection were commended by Captain Vancouver, who says in the preface to his journal of the voyage that not one man died from ill-health between the date of the departure of the expedition from the Cape on the way out and that of its return in October, 1795. Before setting out on the voyage, Sir Joseph Banks, at the request of Lord Grenville, furnished Menzies with formal instructions. He was to investigate the whole of the natural history of the countries visited, paying attention to the nature of the soil, and in view of the prospect of sending out settlers from England, whether grains, fruits, etc., cultivated in Europe are likely to thrive. All trees, shrubs, plants, grasses, ferns, and mosses were to be enumerated by their scientific names as well as those used in the language of the natives. He was to dry specimens of all that were worthy of being brought home and all that could be procured, either living plants or seeds, so that their names and qualities could be ascertained at His Majesty’s gardens at Kew. Any curious or valuable plants that could not be propagated from seeds were to be dug up and planted in the glass frame provided for the purpose. He was also to examine beds of brooks, sides of cliffs, and other places ie Menzies’ Journal. in a search for ores or metals and mineral substances. He was also to note the sort of beasts, birds, and fishes likely to prove useful either for food or in commerce. Particular attention was to be paid to the natural history of the sea-otter and obtain information concerning the wild sheep, and note particularly all places where whales or seals are found in abundance. Inquiry was to be made into the manners, customs, language, and religion of the natives and information obtained concerning their manufactures, particularly the art of dyeing. He was to keep a regular journal of all occurrences, which journal, together with a complete collection of specimens of the animals, vegetables, and minerals obtained, as well as articles of the cloths, arms, implements, and manufactures of the Indians, were to be delivered to H.M. Secre- tary of State or to such person as he shall appoint to receive them. Lord Grenville, in transmitting a copy of these instructions to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty under date of February 23rd, 1791, emphasizes the necessity for impressing upon the commander of the ship that he was to afford every degree of assistance to Mr. Menzies, as the service he has been directed to perform “is materially connected with some of the most important objects of the expedition.” Sir Joseph Banks was apparently apprehensive as to the treat- ment he might receive, as witness his last letter to Menzies (August roth, 1791), in which he says: ‘“* How Captain Vancouver will behave to you is more than I can guess, unless I was to judge by his conduct toward me—which was not such as I am used to receive from persons in his situation. . . . As it would be highly imprudent in him to throw any obstacle in the way of your duty, I trust he will have too much good sense to obstruct it.” Although Captain Vancouver and Menzies were usually on good terms, the latter being permitted (according to Sir Joseph’s wish) to build a glass frame for his plants upon the quarter-deck, yet the relationship became strained when the Captain demanded Menzies’ journals and the latter refused to give them up until Sir Joseph Banks and the Admiralty had granted permission, which was in accordance with instructions issued to him before entering upon this voyage. Menzies’ work was further retarded when Vancouver took the man who was tending the plants and placed him before the mast. When Menzies complained that he had lost many of his best plants through this action, Vancouver placed him under arrest for “ insolence and contempt.” Although the ability of Captain Vancouver and the fact that he accomplished fine work is readily admitted by every one, yet he appears TART LD PTO Te AIG 8 Te ie sancsiaie * Stix House, Aberfeldy, Scotland, the birthplace of Archibald Menzies. From a photograph by E. Menzies-Ellis. Meggernie Castle, the home of the Menzies of Culdares and Stix, in Glenlyon, Scotland. From a photograph by Sir David Menzies. 7 4 i y : , ‘- 2 at i” ian dpriaa em Ce ee a age Seog bolt 0 te nls: al dl eR CMEC Were et ea Vinee i. Biographical Note. xi. to have been indiscreet at times in exceeding his powers in the matter of discipline. Sir Charles H. Read, who had access to a copy of Vancouver’s journal which had been annotated by the surgeon’s mate of the “ Discovery,” remarks that Vancouver “seems to have been a somewhat arbitrary commander,” but this is probably explained by Vancouver’s poor state of health at this time. From Chili Menzies brought home the Monkey Puzzle tree (Aurau- caria imbricata), the first to be introduced into Great Britain. Of the latter the story is told that he obtained seeds when dining with the Spanish Viceroy at a banquet at the Capitel St. Jago. While dessert was being served Menzies noticed some nuts of a kind he had not seen before; he put some in his pocket, and on returning to the ship planted them in the glazed frame which had been erected on the quarter-deck for the purpose of preserving plants for the Royal collection at Kew. By the time the ship returned to Britain five of the seeds had taken root and grown into young trees. One of these lived at Kew until the autumn of 1892. Menzies next served on board the “Sanspareil”’ in the West Indies under Lord Hugh Seymour. All mention of Menzies indicates that he was of a kindly disposi- tion and most painstaking in the discharge of his duties, and his name was highly honoured and respected among the botanists at Kew. He was elected a member of the Linnean Society in 1790, and upon the death of A. B. Lambert became President of the Society. Among his papers are two diplomas, one showing that he obtained the degree of M.D. at Aberdeen University in July, 1799, and another appointing him a member of the Nature Research Society of Leipzig. Upon retiring from the Navy, Menzies followed his profession of doctor and surgeon at 2 Ladbrook Terrace, Notting Hill, London, where he died on February 15th, 1842, and was buried at Kensal Green. His wife, by whom he had no family, predeceased him by five years. He had four brothers, William, Robert, John, and James, all of whom were botanists and gardeners. His herbarium of grasses, sedges, and cryptogams was bequeathed to the Edinburgh Botanical Garden. Sir J. E. Smith dedicated to him the ericaceous genus ** Menziesia.” Many of the personal relics of Archibald Menzies are now in the possession of his grand-nephew, Mr. C. D. Geddes, of Edinburgh, to whom the writer of these notes is indebted for the privilege of obtain- ing many of the photographs to illustrate this memoir, as also to Mr. Menzies Ellis. Xi. Menzies Journal. The following publications by Menzies are recorded in the Royal Societies Catalogue (IV., 345) :— Descriptions of Three New Animals found in the Pacific Ocean (Echeneis lineata, Fasciola clavata, Hirudo branchiaia). Linnean Transactions, 1791, I., 187-8. A New Arrangement of the Genus “ Polytrichum.” Ib., 1798, IV., 63-84. Polytrichum rubellum and P. subulatum. Ib., 1798, IV., 303-4. Account of an Ascent and Barometrical Measurements of Whar- ra-rai, a Mountain in Owhyhee. Magazine of Natural History, I., 1828, 201-208; II., 1829, 435-42. Proceedings of the Linnean Soc., I., 139-41, Gentleman’s Maga- zine. 1842, I., 668-9. A Description of the Anatomy of the Sea Otter, by Everard Home and Archibald Menzies. Royal Society Philosophical Trans- actions, 1796, pp. 394. Also in separate form, pp. 3-12, plates 8, 9, and Io. J. FORSYTH. wt ae, » ~~ ard = ” i ea vt t« Qe Hl H . Castle Menzies, near Aberfeldy, Scotland, where Archibald Menzies got his first lessons in botany. Wer covery Ko lbenon TK Marck 05 790 Ay Dear. Io reFhar Line Collard tn Gor Bab whek F con afrune Phen Tivos Vlad of rafrener ~~ wk 9 Kare besr At foe tome mor 7Ke fot tev et is, ee ae EY Ae Tahan FRireforr. To Sacre gone & Compretaney ie, f eee % frre fr bed A- ae "oane 4 a : tren of _eepaaey frrager of 4 ff Keotte o- f PPP Kora & Dear /lrcther Archibald Menzies’ farewell message to bis brother BE. Me photograph by liam, March 30th, 1791. From a Willis nzies-Ellis. I hae PRs Sey ceed My Ml — forvorwr, Lo wn, longer. WW: fok. Walker C.. Barkley SG rare asin gt wikorwr F ate afponcdad Epacider, Bo Ae 23 Caren negated infkK FR frrtverpA rhaetion ff anig Phan aeny Ove ese — Ny Hr oF, Nebr Kas MOP IEE ACTOR 2. I ee ae Sip ee Sh papa we es I arc wr te_Kornre 72 on hea ASP E, Yor rR mrove Cofere try ty PY Sy DE Eo Py re by le Wipe ga ebm , COQ as ) wk Be fre es fre 7 Deca neo Gorn nvTefed Ais i Abra. ‘eae. Farewell letter of Archibald Menzies to his mother, March 30th, 1791. From a photograph by BE. Menzies-Ellis. PREFACE. HE transcript of Menzies’ journal received by the late Provincial Archivist, Mr. E. O. S. Scholefield, consisted of 874 quarto pages, representing 345 of the original manuscript. On examination it was found that the transcriber reported the absence of several leaves, but, on the other hand, some of the numbers were in duplicate. The period covered by the journal extends from December 1790, to February 16th, 1794, beginning in London and ending in the Hawaiian Islands, with a description of an ascent of ‘‘ Mounaroa.” That portion of it relating to the North-west Coast of America during the year 1792 is taken from the entries made between April 7th and October 13th, original folios 103 and 2008. Within the time herein included the expedition under Captain Vancouver coasted along the mainland shore from latitude 35° 25’ north off what was then known as New Albion, but now included in Northern California, to latitude 52° 18’, where for that year the survey ended at Point Menzies, in Burke Channel. The serious work of the navigators began at the time they entered the Strait of Fuca at the end of April and continued until August 17th, when the boat party which Menzies accompanied reached their turning-point near the present thriving Norwegian settle- ment at Bella Coola. This was less than a year before Mackenzie passed the same place. As so little is known of Captain Colnett’s first voyage to the North-west Coast of America, in which Menzies took part, the scat- tered references to it in the following pages become of value. Menzies’ first voyage to the coast is referred to in a few places, and, meagre though they be, add something to the very imperfect knowledge of it. Leaving London in September, 1786, the “ Prince of Wales,” in which vessel Menzies sailed with Colnett, after forming a settlement at Staten Island, in the Straits of Magellan, passed on without stopping to Nootka, where the ship arrived in July, 1787, with many of the crew suffering from scurvy. With her consort, the “Princess Royal,’ under Duncan, the “ Prince of Wales” remained at Nootka for about a month, during which time Menzies botanized in the woods, watched over, as his journal says, by the wife of Maquinna’s brother. Recognizing her in 1792 at Tahsis, he made her some small presents. Early in August the ships sailed for Prince William’s Sound, Alaska, but, meeting Captain Dixon just outside the harbour, were persuaded by him to sail to the Queen Charlotte Islands instead. That the expedition made a stay of some dura- tion in these islands is evidenced by the date 1787, of Johnstone's XIV. Menzies’ Journal. sketch of Rose Harbour, and by a reference in Hooker’s Flora Bor.- Americana to a plant as having been collected by Menzies there. That the expedition went northward soon after is shown by Johnstone’s plans of Port Etches and of Snug Corner Cove, in Prince William’s Sound, dated 1787; Johnstone being Colnett’s second in command on the “Prince of Wales.” Returning from the north, Menzies says that when the ships were anchored near Banks Island, which was named by him, he had an opportunity of exploring the interior waters leading to what is now known as Douglas Channel through Nepean Sound, and this anchorage was, no doubt, that one “with difficult access’ which they reached after experiencing “various disasters and distresses”’ at the latter end of 1787. Here too we have the evidence afforded by Johnstone, whose sketch of Calamity Harbour is amongst those of this year published by Dalrymple. Before leaving the coast it is shown by Johnstone’s sketch of Port Brooks, just north of Cape Cook, that Colnett touched at the west coast of Vancouver Island, though there is no evidence of any stay at Nootka. After spending the winter months in the Hawaiian Islands the two ships sailed from Oneehow on March 2oth, 1788, and on the 31st of the same month parted company, the “ Prince of Wales,” which carried Colnett, Menzies, and Johnstone, going direct to Prince William’s Sound and the “ Princess Royal” heading for Nootka. Very little is known of Colnett’s voyage of this year, but we find that Captain Douglas, of the “ Iphigenia,’ reported to Mears that he found an inscription on a tree in Snug Corner Cove, Prince William’s Sound, stating that Etches, the supercargo of the “‘ Prince of Wales,” had been there on May oth. Vancouver also says that Johnstone had been at Port Mulgrave in 1788. It is possible that Colnett went as far north as Bering’s Straits, but the only evidence supporting this is contained in the references by Hooker and others to certain plants having been found there by Menzies. From Duncan’s report of his voyage of 1788, contained in Dixon’s “ Further Remarks,” it is clear that Colnett was expected to return by way of the Queen Charlotte Islands, for under the date of August 19th Duncan says that he left a letter for him on that date at Etches Sound. The “ Prince of Wales” was only a day’s easy sail from that locality not very long after, as her last anchorage on the coast was at Port Wentworth (in Hakai Channel), north of Calvert Island, as we learn from Menzies. Colnett and Duncan met in the Hawaiian Islands again before sailing for China, where they arrived in December. Here Colnett Preface. XV. remained in order to organize the new expedition to Nootka, with the intention of founding a settlement there, which had such an unfor- tunate ending. The “Prince of Wales” was loaded with a cargo of tea, and left China on February Ist, 1789, under the command of Johnstone, carrying Captain Duncan and two young Hawaiians as passengers, with Menzies still acting as surgeon. After a short stay at St. Helena the ship continued her voyage and arrived in England on July 14th, 1789. Although we can find no record of Menzies’ doings between the date last mentioned and the beginning of 1780, there can be little doubt that he was fully occupied in arranging and distributing the various collections made during this voyage. An extract from the first pages of his journal will give some idea as to the circumstances in which he joined Vancouver’s expedition :— “At the conclusion of the disturbance which happened between us and Spain in the year 1790, the advantages held out to this Country by the conventional articles were deemed of so much importance, as to induce government to send Vessels to prosecute the discoveries that were made on the North West Coast of America, & thereby obtain a more correct knowledge of that Country & the different Inlets with which it is variously intersected. For this purpose the Discovery a Ship of three hundred & thirty Tons & the Chatham a Brig of one hundred and forty Tons then laying at Deptford, were about the middle of November ordered to be got ready, as they were deemed in every respect sufficiently adapted for this service. “These Vessels had been taken up for a different expedition some Months before, & were in great forwardness in their equipment under the direction of Capt. Henry Roberts who was to command it—- when their Officers & Seamen were called away to the Armament about the beginning of May which put a stop to their further prepara- tions——In this interval however the Discovery became useful as a receiving Ship for impressed Seamen, and the Chatham was employed as a Tender on the same service till the Armament broke up—when the alteration which then took place in their destination occasioned a change of Commanders & consequently of Officers & Seamen. “Captain Roberts was detained to go out on his Expedition (as it was said) the following Spring, & Mr. George Vancouver who had been appointed his first Lieutenant was promoted to the command of the Discovery about the middle of December & consequently entrusted with the sole direction of this expedition to the North West Coast of America. The Discovery was at the same time paid off, & recommis- sioned, so that Captain Vancouver had the pleasure of naming his XVi. Menzies’ Journal. own Officers & entering the full compliment of Seamen, an indulgence that ought always to be allowed on any similar occasion, as the success of an Expedition of this nature may greatly depend on the harmony & good understanding which is more likely to subsist among those of the Commanders choosing “1790 Decr. The command of the Chatham was given to Lieu- tenant William Robert Broughton, and as she was in want of some essential repairs she was hauled into a Dock in Woolwich Yard to have them compleated. “At this time I had been upwards of twelve months retained by Government to go out as Naturalist on that Expedition planned for Captain Roberts, but as a state of tedious suspence was more intoler- able to me, than the hardships of a long Voyage or the dangers of traversing the wildest Forests, I requested leave of the Treasury to go out as Surgeon of the Discovery, promising at the same time that my vacant hours from my professional charge, should be chiefly employed in their service, in making such collections & observations as might tend to elucidate the natural history of the Voyage, without any further pecuniary agreement than what they might conceive me entitled to, on my return—My chief objects being a desire to complete my servitude in the Royal Navy & the pleasure of exercising my profession,—and as two assistant-surgeons were allowed the Discovery, I trusted I should have time sufficient on my hands to perform my promise to their satisfaction—and by that means cheerfully devote to the service of my Country that experience I had already gained in a long circumnavigation & particularly on that Coast where those Vessels were to direct their course & perform their operations. “The Treasury gave a favorable hearing & readily agreed to my proposal, but the Commander of the Expedition made some objec- tions, what they were I never heard, nor am I at this moment anxious to know, being conscious of the rectitude of my own intentions—The Treasury then resolved upon my going out in my present capacity & soon after requested me to go aboard the Discovery to see that the accommodations intended for me should be fitted out agreeable to my wishes for the preservation of such objects of Natural History as I should be directed to collect.” After a lengthened period of uncertainty we see that, through the influence of Sir Joseph Banks, Menzies was at last assured of a position with Vancouver’s expedition. His duties included the dis- tribution of useful plants as well as the collecting of new and rare species. Preface. xvii. In this he was only following the policy, common at that time, and greatly stimulated by the friend and benefactor just mentioned. It will be recalled that David Nelson, who accompanied Cook in his last voyage, had a similar mission in the “Bounty,” under “ Bread- fruit’ Bligh. Turned adrift with his commander by the mutineers, Nelson died at Timor on July 20th, 1789, at the very time when Menzies was landing in England on his return from China. Nelson had been at Nootka and in Alaska with Captain Cook, but his collec- tions seem to have become partially mixed with those of Menzies from the same places. Amongst the members of Vancouver’s crew of the “ Discovery ” may be noted the name of Richard Collett, Gunner, who was with Cook in his last voyage (Menz. Jnl., Dec. 31st., 1791), and John Ewins, “ Botanist’s L’t.” With Broughton, the ‘‘ Chatham’s ”’ Muster Roll shows James Johnstone as Master. Johnstone had already been on the North-west Coast with Colnett and had proved himself to be an able nautical surveyor. His experience was taken advantage of by Vancouver on repeated occasions, as his narrative shows. As one of the older men (zt. 36 in 1790) and with many years of active service behind him, Menzies seems to have been treated with respect by his fellow-officers, and owing to his genial nature he managed to escape the difficulties of his somewhat anomalous position as naturalist amongst men whose activities were applied to less sedentary employments. He was ever ready to share the hardships of the boat excursions, and warmly praises the cheerful endurance of his companions without once speaking of his own trials. He made somewhat detailed geographical notes of not only the places visited by himself, but also of those surveyed by the proper officers, who seem to have readily communicated to him the result of their explora- tions. In a region so full of intricate channels the reader will find it difficult to follow these without the use of a modern chart. It is hoped that the marginal notes will help in identifying many of the places not named in Vancouver’s maps. Professor Meany’s “ Vancouver’s Discovery of Puget Sound” will prove to be of greater value to the reader in this connection than its title would suggest. Although but 10 pages out of 244 are devoted to the Puget Sound of Vancouver, the volume includes Vancouver’s journal for nearly the whole period covered by Menzies in the part under consideration. It will be found that Lieutenant Puget’s account is both confirmed and supplemented; that there are far more details in the account of Puget and Whidbey’s examination of Desolation Sound and the 2 XVIil. Menzies Journal. channels on the east side of Redonda Island, and of the anchorage on its west side where the Spanish and British ships lay for seventeen days from June 26th until July 13th. From the mountain on the north of this anchorage there can be little doubt that Mr. Mudge first sighted the cape to which Vancouver gave the discoverer’s name. Menzies relates how he climbed this mountain, accompanied by some of the ship’s officers and men, and the height given by him as shown by a small mercurial barometer tallies closely with that given on the charts for Nipple Mountain. Beginning his botanical work in Port Discovery, some 24 nautical miles from Victoria, he found a Flora almost identical with that of South-east Vancouver Island, with the addition of the fine large Rhododendron which is now the State flower of Washington. He speaks enthusiastically of the scenery and climate of this region, and mentions, under the names of similar trees and shrubs which he had collected in Nova Scotia, nearly all of their conspicuous reMtives as he met with them. It was in Port Discovery, too, that he first saw the Arbutus which bears his name and which is such a plentiful ornament of the coast from Victoria to Comox. On Protection Island he noticed that plant of peculiar distribution, the Cactus, now known as a variety of Opuntia polyacantha. Although Menzies was a generous donor of the great collections he made during his voyages, it was many years before his specimens were described and recorded. Amongst the earliest authorities to undertake this work were Sir J. E. Smith, founder and President of the Linnean Society of London (1791); R. A. Salisbury (1806) ; Esper (1800-1808); Turner, c. (1808-1819); Acharius (1810) ; Pursh (1814); and Lambert (1803). When Pursh was writing his Flora Americe Septentrionalis he had in his charge a collection of plants made during the Lewis & Clark expedition of 1804-1806, and these had the first claim upon his attention. It will be noticed that many of the species from the coast, the types of which are attributed to these explorers, had already been mentioned or collected some ten years earlier by Menzies. Sir W. J. Hooker’s work in connection with the description of Menzies’ plants seems to have commenced in 1830 (Botanical Miscel- lany), and to have ended with his description of Rhododendron californicum in 1855. But his most frequent quotations of Menzies’ collections, with descriptions of new species, are to be found in his Flora Boreali-Americana, 1829-1840. Preface. xix. There can be little doubt that the voyage under consideration led to the journeys of Douglas and Scouler. The former, especially, was able to complete the work of his predecessor by sending home the seeds and living plants of trees and flowers of which Menzies, owing to the conditions in which he worked, could only make herbarium specimens. Both Douglas and Scouler acknowledged their indebted- ness, and the latter uses the following words: “ While in London (1824) I received much important information from Dr. Richardson and Mr. Menzies with respect to the countries I was about to examine. The knowledge acquired from Mr. Menzies was peculiarly interesting, as he had already explored the very coast I had to visit, and cheerfully allowed me at all times to examine the plants he had collected on the North-west Coast, and to direct my attention to those which were most likely to be useful when cultivated in this country.” (The Edinburgh Journ. of Science, Vol. V., p. 196, foot-note.) Sir William Hooker, himself an admirable botanical draughtsman, frequently speaks of the excellent drawings in his possession made by Menzies in the field. Some of these are reproduced in the present volume; some seem to have been lost, as the Director of the Royal Gardens at Kew, writing in February, 1915, says that at that time after careful search no evidence has been found of the existence of a collec- tion of plant drawings by Archibald Menzies. He expressed, however, the opinion that there could be little doubt that an unnamed drawing of Sanguisorba media in the Kew collection is the one mentioned by Sir W. J. Hooker as having been made on the spot by Menzies. Later he was good enough to send a photograph of this drawing and the information that Dr. Rydberg considers the plant to be specifically distinct from S. media L., and has proposed the name S. Menziesii. This is evidently the same plant now on our lists as S. microcephala Presl., and was probably collected by Henke, who was on the North-west Coast in 1791 with Malaspina and touched at many of the places visited by Vancouver’s expedition. Although in some cases Menzies doubtless lost the honours of first discovery by the fact that Pursh was entrusted with the collec- tions of Lewis and Clark before he saw those of Menzies, yet the latter must have gained something by the misfortunes of Mozino, the botanist accompanying Quadra to Nootka in 1892, where he spent four months, with a skilful artist, Echeverria. Mozino’s work was to be completed in Madrid, and he arrived there in 1803 and worked at his various collections until the French invasion of 1808. Taking refuge with DeCandolle at Montpellier and afterwards at Geneva, Mozino xx, Menzies Journal. wished to return with his drawings about the year 1817. He died in Barcelona in 1819 and most of his drawings were lost. Copies, however, were made at Geneva of many of them, but as the work was hurried, it is said that they were much inferior to the originals. The editor is greatly indebted to Sir David Praine, Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for photographs and notes of plants and for transcripts of Menzies’ letters; to Mr. James Britten for information as to the Menzies’ plants in the Banks Herbarium at the British Museum; and to Professor C. V. Piper, of the United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., for varied assistance rendered for many years. Cc. F. NEWCOMBE. MENZIES’ JOURNAL of VANCOUVER’S VOYAGE. APRIL TO OCTOBER, 1792. (Note.—The original spelling in Menzies’ MS. has been retained in the printed Journal and index.) ECURRING to former Voyages in this part of the| 1792. Pacific, it appears that the North East Wind has eral generally prevaild so far to the Northward as our present situation, those who have made their passage more westerly have met the variable winds in a much lower Lati- tude particularly when the Sun is to the southward of the Equator, from thence it would seem that a passage inclining into the variable winds in a more westerly meridian instead of an easterly course within the limits of the Trade wind would have a better chance of succeeding sooner. Early this morning our attention was fixd on a number of small substances floating on the surface of the water, sometimes singly but generally collected in large patches of which we were every moment passing vast quantities on both sides of us & the sea appeard coverd with them as far as the eye could distinguish them within our horizon. A bucket was lowered down in the water in which several of them were pickd up & I found them to agree very nearly with the Medusa velella of Linnaeus—a kind of sea blubber. Velella. The greatest number of them were small but the full sizd ones were about 3 inches long, of an oval depressed form & edgd with a very delicate blue gelatinous margin minutely dotted with purple spots—The under side is some- what concave & beset with papillae & soft pendulous filaments particularly round the centre—The upper side is prominent in the middle of a silvery tinge & concentrically striated— having a thin erect pellucid membrane placd / diagonally, which answers the purpose of a little sail in wafting it about on the surface of the Ocean in search of its food. A won- derful contrivance of nature in the locomotive powers of an animal so seemingly helpless, & when it is disturbed or too much harrassd either by the roughness of the sea strength of the wind or other accidents it immediately turns over on its back to elude the danger. 2 Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. 1792. April 8th. Oniscus fulgens. Cook, Third Voy., II., 257. Probably a mollusk of the Nudibranch division. In the same bucket I found a most beautiful species of Oniscus which I immediately put into a glass of Salt Water for examination wherein it swam very quick about in dif- ferent directions & according to its position respecting the light it emitted various colours of the brightest hue. As this little Insect has not yet been described the following short character may serve to distinguish its place in the Systema Nature. ONISCUS. fulgens ©. ovalis compressus, pellucidus, cauda biseta. Its whole body is about a quarter of an inch long, oval, compressed & transparent, consisting of eight Segments besides the head part, which is of an obtuse form; each segment is closely joind near the middle but a little separated towards the edges; the Antenne & feet are small & short; the tail consists of two diverging bristles about one fifth the length of the body. This undoubtedly is the same kind of Insect which Mr Anderson met with in this Sea a little further to the North- ward & is mentioned in Capt Cook’s last Voyage, & as his specific name is very applicable / I have retaind it & added the foregoing description. Those upon deck in the forenoon saw a bird fly past the ship very much resembling a Duck in its flight & general appearance. In the evening we had it calm dark & heavy with some slight showers of rain. The 8th continud calm & serene all day & as the Jolly 'Boat was lowerd down in the water to go on board the Chatham I took that opportunity to examine farther the large extended patches of Medusa velella which still coverd the surface of the sea all around us, & to many of these I found adhering in clusters another kind of Vermes of the same natural order but to what genus it belongs to I am really at a loss to determine. This little animal is about an inch & a half long, its body is somewhat Cylindric but tapering towards the tail, the underside is flat but the upper side is con- — vex somewhat inflated & of a blueish tinge, the Mouth Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. is retractile & opens beneath near the extremity with 702, four retractile feelers placed above it, the sides to the}~”” very extremity of the tail are furnishd with numerous soft filaments of a deep blue colour by the motion of which it swims about in the water. On rowing a little distance from the ship I shot one of the large dark brown birds which were at different times seen in the course of this passage & found it to be a species of Albatross agreeing nearly in its characteristics with the Diomedia fuliginosa but as I was somewhat doubt- | piomeaia full of its being the same bird, I have here subjoind the | (iin rsctea following short description of it. Tada This Bird is about 7 feet between the tip of its wings moderately extended / & three feet in length including the Bill which is 4 inches & of a chocolate colour, the upper mandible is longer than the under & hookd at the end: The front—a small spot under each eye pointing backwards; the rump, crissum inner half of the tail & shafts of the quills are white; the rest of the head neck & tail together with the upper parts of the body & wings are of a dark brown, but the gullet & belly are of a dusky cinereous colour; the legs toes & claws are black; the trides dark hazley. The 9th was gloomy weather with several banks of | April otn. dark clouds all round the horizon & though we had no rain yet there seemd to be a great deal of humidity in the air. We were favord most part of the day with a very light breeze from the Westward which on the following day veerd round by the Southward to the South East quarter where it gradually encreasd in strength to a fresh breeze & con- tinued to blow pretty constant from between South East & South South East for the four following days, the weather too continud dark & gloomy & sometimes hazy with a few slight showers of rain in squalls. A number of Whales were seen in the course of this day who were no doubt allurd by the abundant store of food afforded them by the sea blubbers which we still continud passing in vast quan- tities & did not get entirely clear of them till the 12th when | April 12th. we reachd the Latitude of 36° 21’ North & Longitude 225° East, so that nearly in the parallel of 36 North we found them to extend about 8 degrees of longitude but how far they extended in other directions we were uncertain. 4 Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. During this period the surface of the sea was remarkably / smooth & as tranquility is so necessary for the preservation of the delicate structure of these tender animals, it would seem that this part of the Pacific is seldom visited by bois- terous weather or violent gales of wind, otherwise we should probably find them more scatterd about the Ocean & less numerous. April 15th. In the forenoon of the 15th a small Bird was seen in its flight somewhat like a Plover & though we were now approaching the continent of America & had reason to believe we were not far from it, yet we had no other signs of our being in the vicinity of land excepting that the weather also became more boisterous & unsettled. In the evening we sounded but found no bottom with a hundred & twenty fathoms of line, the South East Wind still con- tinued & during the night & following day blew in strong gales & frequent squalls with rain & thick gloomy weather. We also quitted that smooth sea which we had been sailing through for some days past & now got into a much rougher element. April 17th, On the morning of the 17th we sounded with a hundred & again with a hundred & thirty fathoms but had no ground. Some drift wood was seen at different times & a Seal in the forenoon & at noon we were in Latitude 39° 20’ North & in Longitude 235° 54’ east. The weather which had been squally with strong gales & lightning on the preceding night still continued boisterous till about four in the afternoon when it became more moderate. About this time we past some drift wood & a good deal of Sea Weed mixd with grass the Zostera marina, we also saw a / number of Birds such as Auks Divers & Shags which inducd us again to Sound when we struck ground in 65 fathoms minute brown sand, it was at this time so thick & hazy that we could not see any great distance ahead of us, we however soon after New Albion of | discoverd that we were close in with the Coast of NEW Drake, 1979. |) ALBION by seeing the land East by North about two leagues off, we stood in for it till we were within three Miles of the shore & then tackd hauling our wind to the South westward to ply off & on for the night, during which we had but light winds & a good deal of rain. At 8 in the evening we sounded with 90 & at 10 with upwards of 100 1792. April 12th. Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. fathoms but had no ground which shews that Soundings | 1792. extend but a very short way off this part of the Coast. The land we saw this afternoon presented a prospect by no means unpleasant, it was of a very moderate height varied with hills & Valleys, the former rising higher inland & mostly coverd with tall dusky trees with here & there clear spots mounting up their sides, the Valleys & lower ground near the sea side seemd to form extensive pastures as they appeard coverd with verdure or low bushes of a much lighter hue than the wooded parts, the shore itself was apparently streight without any appearance of inlet within our view, & seemd to trend nearly North & South, but the extreme points we saw were not very distant on account of the thick hazy weather. The forenoon of the 18th we had but light airs of wind with some rain & thick hazy weather, At noon we were about 4 leagues from the shore / in Latitude 39° 27’ North, the extremes of the land N 24 W. & S 60° E. the latter about 10 leagues off. In the afternoon we continud our course to the Northward with a more favorable breeze, edging a little in with the Coast to have a better view of it. We were met by several flights of Birds seemingly Puffins going to the Southward probably to their breeding haunts, they flew close to the surface of the water—fre- quently following one another in a line. When at 4 in the afternoon we got within 7 or 8 miles of the shore we steerd to the Northwestward along the Coast till the evening when we again stood off & on for the night. This part of the Coast appeard to rise steep from the water side to form a firm & compact ridge of Mountains which were mostly coverd with wood of a dusky hue to their very summits though some naked cliffs & patches were seen & here & there reddish streaks or chasms seemingly the beds of torrents falling down the sides of these Mountains, which appeard to gain considerably in elevation as they extended to the Northwestward. In the morning of the 19th the wind was baffling & the weather dark & hazy so that no part of the land was dis- tinctly seen except a bluff point which was our northern extreme on the preceeding noon, we therefore steerd off to the Southward till it cleard up which it did towards noon, & the wind at the same time springing up favorable we again April 17th. April 18th. Off Mendocino Co., Cal. April 19th. 6 Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. 1792. April 19th. Balenoptera sp. (Finback Whale). Blunt’s Reef of modern charts. Awash at high tide. April 20th. April 21st. stood along the Coast in our progress to the Northward. Early in the morning several Whales were seen about the ship seemingly of that kind called Finners. Our Latitude this day was 40° 3 North when the Northern extreme of the land / which we found to be Cape Mendocino bore north ten degrees West about nine leagues off, & the bluff point bore N 2 W four leagues off. We coasted on to the Northward till a little after five when we were abreast of two small rocky Islets a little off the Point of Cape Mendocino & the appearance of shoal & broken water a head made us haul our wind off shore for the night, & a little after we had Soundings in 40 fathoms minute dark brown sand, but on trying again about an hour after we had none with 70 fathoms nor in the night time with a hundred & twenty, so that the line of Soundings does not seem to extend above 4 or 5 leagues off this part of the Coast. The wind which was from the South East freshend during the night into a strong stormy gale with heavy sea & thick rainy uncomfortable weather. The land we saild along this afternoon was high & broken into huge elevated mountains of verdant pasturages, checquerd with woods & winding valleys & presenting to the eye a pleasing prospect & to the mind the rural idea of a hilly country seemingly capable of the highest state of improvement & cultivation. The gale from the South East continued on the follow- ing day with unremitted fury attended with heavy sea thick hazy weather & almost constant rain, which induced us to preserve a good distance. from the land & what was very singular this tempestuous weather did not in the least depress the Mercury in the Barometer which continued a little above 30 inches all day. On the 21%t the wind became more moderate but / the weather continud thick & hazy with constant rain, & though we were at noon by our estimation at no great distance from the shore abreast of us yet we could not see any part of it—-The afternoon was mostly calm with thick fog, we sounded with a hundred & seventy fathoms but had no ground. Saw some Whales, the spoutings of these after- wards in the hazy horizon loomd so as to be taken for strange vessels under sail, & it was even some time before the deception was clearly detected. Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. x Next morning the weather cleard up so far that we had a view of the land pretty early when we stood in for it & at noon our Latitude by a Meridian Altitude was 40° 32’ North, when the bluff bore S 64 E nine leagues & Cape Mendocino was to the Eastward of us 6 leagues so that we congratulated ourselves on having kept our ground so well during the late boisterous weather. We stood in till we were within 6 or 7 Miles of the shore & preserving nearly that distance, we coasted along it in the afternoon with a favorable breeze for about 14 leagues without observing the appearance of any distinguishable Port or Inlet, though in the evening we could not be far from the situation of Port Trinidad by the Spaniards. We observd a good deal of pale or muddy water along shore, & at five we hauld our wind which was moderate to the South West for the night being then within 6 or 7 miles of a low rocky point guarded by a number of small detachd rocks which also lind the shore someway to the Southward of it. / About 6 or 7 leagues to the Northward of Cape Mendocino the Coast appears to incline in a little & form a large shallow sandy bay backd by a considerable tract of low land coverd with wood & rising with a very gradual ascent to form dusky mountains a considerable way inland. On the morning of the 234 we again stood in for the shore a few miles to the Northward of where we quitted it on the preceeding evening, As we approachd the Shore we came into exceeding pale & muddy water forming a defined line with the other as if it rushd out of some con- siderable river or Inlet, at first we were a little alarmd thinking it might be shallow water & tryd Soundings but had no ground with 50 fathoms of line, & it appeard of the same colour all along shore to the Northward & Southward of us. We coasted on to the Northward along a rocky indented shore well lined with peaked insulated rocks; in some places the shore formd steep banks of reddish earth rising into hills of a moderate height diversified with woods & pas- turage. In the forenoon we passed on the inside of a small naked rock about 6 or 7 miles from the shore in the Latitude of 41° 20 N. At noon our Latitude was 41° 36’ N. the northern extreme of the Land formd a low flat point coverd with Trees, bore N 11° E three leagues off & obtaind the 1792. April 22nd. Discovered by Heceta and Quadra, Ju. 7th, 1775. Wrongly placed to N. of C. Mendocino in Barrington’s map of their voyage. April 23rd. St. George’s Reef and Point St. George, near Crescent City, Humboldt Co., Cal. Dragon channel replaces Dragon Rocks. 8 Menzies’ Journal. Off Coast of California. 1792. April 23rd. Crescent City, site of. April 24th. C. Blanco of Vizeaino, 1608. Coos Co., Oreg. Probably of the Kusan Tribe. The ornament of the well- known name of Point St George, And some naked rocks & break- ers which are scatterd off it for about 7 miles were named the Dragon Rocks. In the afternoon we stood round the outside of / these Rocks where we had Soundings in 45 fathoms fine black sand, & again hauld in on the North side of them where we deepend our water & on account of our distance off the shore had but a very indistinct view of a large Bay which formd on the North Side of the Point. We coasted on till 10 in the evening when we hauld our wind off shore under easy sail for the night. Point St George is in the Latitude of 41° 46’ North & in the Longitude of 236° oo’ East, the Land behind it is a low flat tract of considerable extent densely wooded with pines & has much the appearance of an Island from both sides, but our distance from the shore has left this point doubtfull. On the South side we saw the appearance of a small opening & we do not conceive it at all improbable that a small river may here disembogue itself as we saw a great deal of white muddy water about the entrance of this appar- ent opening & along shore to the Southward of it. Saw also some Sea Otters this day. Early on the 24th we again stood in for the land & fetching near to the place where we quitted it on the pre- ceeding evening reassumd our course to the Northward examining & surveying the Coast. In the forenoon we passed on the outside of another group of naked rocks & breakers 4 or 5 miles from the shore in the Latitude of 42° 28’ North & had Soundings in 45 fathoms about 2 miles from them. Our Latitude at noon was 42° 36’ North & our Longitude 235° 44’ East, the Northern extreme of the Land stretched out into a low hammoc point bore N 22 W 5 or 6 leagues which will be nearly / the situation of Cape Blanco. In the afternoon we had it chiefly calm & finding the tide or a strong current setting us very fast in shore we dropped anchor in 36 fathoms till a breeze should spring up to favor our progress to the Northward which happend towards midnight when we both weighd & made Sail out from the Land. When we anchord two Canoes came off from the Shore, one went along side of the Chatham & the other paddled towards us without shewing any kind of dread or appre- hension. When she came along side we invited her Crew Menzies’ Journal. Oregon Coast. 9 on board, & the whole of them consisting of seven Men accepted very readily of the invitation, having first made their Canoe fast along side, which shewd a degree of con- fidence that indicated their mild & peaceable dispositions. Most of them appeard on our Decks naked having left their garments which were made from squirrel racoon & deer skins in the Canoe; they wore Caps on their heads made from the breast & belly parts of Shag Skins which fitted them very close & comfortable; Each of them had his ears & the septum of his nose perforated, in the latter some of them wore an ornament made of the tooth shell but which they readily parted with on thrusting a small nail in the place of it. Their bows & arrows were of an inferior sort, the latter were armd with a kind of flinty stone fastend in a slit in the end of the Arrow by means of hardend Resin. We saw no Sea Otter Skins among them, nor did they bring or offer any thing to barter, but receivd with avidity whatever was offerd them. Their Canoe was by no means calculated to go far to sea or / enduring much bad weather, it had some distant resemblance to a Butchers Tray being truncated at both ends short broad & shallow. It was about 18 feet long 4 feet & % broad in the middle but a little narrower towards the ends, & it was about 2 feet deep formd of one piece of Pine Tree dug out & tolerably well finishd, so that the wood on this part of the Coast must be pretty large—The blades of the paddles were narrow & cut square off at the end, the shafts ended with a small knob. These Natives remaind with us about an hour, & after leav- ing us paid a short visit to the Chatham, after which they went towards the shore & we saw no more of them. They were of a middling size with mild pleasing features & nowise sullen or distrustfull in their behaviour, they were of a copper colour but cleanly, as we observd no vestige of greasy paint or ochre about their faces or among their hair, some had their bodies markd with slight linear scars crossing each other in various directions & some were Tatooed in different parts. On their coming along side & after they were on board they kept constantly repeating the word Slaghshee the meaning of which we did not comprehend, some thought it was their word for friendship, others imagind they meant Iron a metal they were very desirous of posessing, for dur- 1792. April 24th. tooth-shell, Dentalium pretiosum Sby. The canoe resembles the river canoe of Puget Sound Indians. 10 Menzies’ Journal. Oregon Coast. 1792. April 24th. April 25th. Orford, Cape. Named by Vancouver in honour of Lord George Orford. Menzies’ conjecture has been confirmed, but the name {s still represented by Port Orford. Gregory, Cape of Cook, 1778. Replaced by Cape Arago in American maps of 1855. ing the time they were on board their attention was so much engagd on other objects that all my endeavours provd fruit- less in collecting any part of their language which appeard to us to be a very clattering / jargon. As the weather was moderate & the wind favorable from the Southward we stood in on the morning of the 24th towards the hammoc point which formd our northern extreme on the preceeding noon, & as we approachd it we discoverd some breakers & a cluster of naked rocks about two or three miles off it, one of which is of a conical form & renders this point so remarkable that it can easily be dis- tinguishd in whatever direction it is made. The South side of the Point is made up of steep cliffs of light brown rocks & though the Coast appeard broken with some apparent little opening to the Southward of it yet that part of the shore for a considerable way appeard strewd over with breakers & detachd rocks that a near approach would require the utmost caution. Our Latitude at noon was 43° 6’ North when the Hammoc Point we past in the Morning bore S 11° E five leagues which places it in Latitude 42° 51’ North its Longi- tude being 235° 41 East & as it is the most conspicuous point on this part of the Coast I think there can be no doubt of its being Cape Blanco of the Spaniards, though Capt Vancouver has namd it Cape Orford, nor can the difference between our settlement of it & Capt Cook’s have any weight in this consideration as that able Navigator by his own account settled it by a long estimated distance which will always be allowd to be less or more liable to fallacy, besides as the land hereabouts is low we are pretty certain that he was too far off to see the extremity of the point & this is very evident from our not finding any par- ticular point on this part of the Coast within four leagues of the situation he assigns to Cape Blanco. / We continued our progress to the Northward with a favorable breeze & about three in the afternoon passed Cape Gregory in Latitude 43° 23’ North & Longitude 235° 48’ East, it is a projecting steep bluff of a moderate height facd with light brown cliffs on the South Side & though we differ here also a little from Capt Cook, this must be attributed to the distance he was from the Cape & the boisterous weather he met with in making this part of the Coast so early. Menzies’ Journal. Oregon Coast. II About 6 or 7 miles to the Southward of this Cape we | 1792. observd a small break in the shore like a creak or open- Coquille River. ing, but in passing it, it did not seem deserving of much consideration. In the evening we again hauld out from the land with the wind Southerly which encreasd in the night time to a very fresh gale attended with frequent showers of rain & lightning so that we were hardly able to preserve our station. We this day tracd about 26 leagues of the Coast which assumd a very different appearance from any part we had yet seen of it, for to the Northward of Cape Blanco the shore forms for the most part a fine white sandy Beach which here & there rose into elevated banks among the trees that might easily be mistaken for snow or white cliffs, as was the case we conceivd in some measure with Capt Cook, for that part of the Coast we quitted this evening agrees so exactly with his description of it, that it would seem even as if his snow had not yet dissolvd.—The Country inland appeard low & almost level nothing to be seen but one extended forest of Pine trees as far back as the eye could reach, but from Cape Blanco to the Southward / as far as Point St George the shore appears very broken rocky & indented, here & there lind with detachd peaked rocks & rising suddenly to form an uneven hilly country almost every where coverd with wood. We stood in again for the land early on the morning of | april 26th. the 26th & being a little hazy had but a very indistinct view of this part of the Coast besides we were now a few leagues to the northward of where we quitted it on the preceeding evening. We bore up along shore & soon after passed Cape Perpetua which forms a naked low projecting hilloc, & as} Perpetua ana the day advancd the breeze freshend from the Southward | fine” & became very squally which inducd us to edge out a little | C7 177°: from the land & at noon though we were about the Latitude of Cape Foulweather & the land still in view yet the haze over it & our distance from the shore prevented our having a distinct view of the Cape. In the afternoon it still blew a fresh gale from the South West quarter & squally weather with rain & hail, but towards evening it moderated a little & we gradually edged in again nearer the land for a low point round which we had some expectations of finding a harbour but in this we were disappointed it being apparently I2 Menzies Journal. Oregon Coast. 1792. April 26th. April 27th. C. Lookout of Meares, 1788. Voy., 168, and illustration of. The Three Brothers of Meares. Off the Columbia River, in Meares’ Deception Bay. Meares, Voy., 167. a bay skirted round with low land of no great depth & it being dark we stood off again for the night & had Soundings from 50 to 75 fathoms fine black sand. From Cape Perpetua in our run this day to the North- ward the Mountains appeard high & rose with a steep ascent from the water side coverd with trees to their very summits —Some of the Valleys had a fertile appearance & in a fine day would no doubt yield a more favorable prospect. / In the morning of the 27th we stood in for the land with the wind from the South West quarter which blew very fresh & in frequent squalls with showers of rain & some hail: Those who were on deck at this time saw also a Water Spout. We bore up along shore a little to the Northward of Cape look out which is in the Latitude of 44° 33’ North & Longitude 236° 10’ East. This point is renderd conspicuous by three remarkable naked rocks laying a little off it, one of which is piercd & answers pretty well Mr Mears description of it, who named it. The land we saild along this forenoon was formd into large Bays with white sandy beaches skirted with low flat land extending inland into deep valleys with intervening mountains forming projecting points on the shore & rising inland to considerable height apparently more than any we had yet seen on the Coast. About noon seeing some whitish water ahead inducd us to haul the wind to the North West off the land to avoid the apparent danger of getting into shoal water. The exterior edge of this water like the former we met with made a defined line with the other & appeard muddy like the over flowings of a considerable river. Our Latitude was 46° 14’ North & the northern extreme which made a naked rocky point apparently separated from the land behind it which was coverd with Trees bore North about 5 or 6 miles from us. I could see at this time from the Mast head the appearance of a river or inlet going in on the South side of this rocky point which I took to be what Mr Mears namd / Cape Disapointment, it is by us in Latitude 46° 19’ N & Longitude 236° 4’ East. In the afternoon our distance from the land was too great to have a distinct or satisfactory view of the shore opposite to us which appeard to be defended by a long reef of breakers & some shallow water.—Here the country again Menzies’ Journal. Washington Coast. 13 assumd a low & flat appearance coverd with trees for a considerable distance inland—At 8 at night we were in 24 fathoms water over a bottom of dark brown sand, & as we then hauld off we gradually deepend our water & had regular Soundings the whole night. Early in the morning of the 28th we had heavy rain & easterly wind with which we edgd in for the shore & bore up about 6 or 7 leagues to the Northward of where we hauld off on the preceeding evening & had soundings in the fore- noon from 19 to 10 fathoms about 5 or 6 miles from the shore. The land here is low & thickly coverd with wood close down to the brink of a steep cliffy shore which appeard pretty streight with a number of elevated rocks scatterd along it but laying at no great distance from it; the land further back rose pretty high & mountainous towards the summit of which we observd several patches of snow. Tho’ the country here was by no means unpleas- ant yet there was a sameness in the extent of prospect which soon fatigued the eye & did not afford it that treat of verdant hills interspersd with woods & fertile dales which the Coast more to the Southward presented. At noon our Latitude was 47° 30’ N & what is calld Destruction Island was at the same time about three leagues to the Northward of us. / It is low & flat coverd only with verdure & engirdled by steep rocky cliffs. In the afternoon we had light variable wind with somewhat hazy weather, & perceiving the influence of a current setting us in shore we droppd Anchor in 19 fathoms about 4 miles from the shore & the same distance to the Southward of Destruction Island where we remaind the evening. At three next morning we both weighd anchor & made Sail along the coast to the Northward with a favorable breeze gradually increasing & soon after we saw a ship nearly a head of us a little way out from the Coast which on seeing us brought to & fird a gun to leeward, in passing we edgd a little down towards her & spoke the Columbia of Boston commanded by Mr Gray—At the name of Gray it occurrd to us that he might be the same who commanded the Sloop Washington at the time she is said to have per- formd that remarkable interior navigation on this Coast which was so much the subject of polemic conversation in England before our departure—We immediately brought 3 1792. April 27th. April 28th. Destruction Id. of Meares, 1788. Perhaps not of Barkley, 1787, as quoted by Vancouver, Es, 212. April 29th. 14 Menzies’ Journal. Washington Coast. 1792. April 29th. to & sent a Boat to the Columbia in which I accompanied Lt Puget in order to obtain what information we could, & the reader may easily conceive the eagerness with which we interrogated the Commander when we found him to be the same man which our ideas had suggested, & indeed it may appear no less curious than interesting that here at the entrance of Juan de Fuca’s Streights we should meet with the very man whose Voyage up it in the Sloop Washington as delineated by the fertile fancy of Mr Mears gave rise to so much theoretical speculation & chimerical discussion— / I say interesting because it enables us to detect to the World a fallacy in this matter which no excuse can justify. Mr Gray informd us that in his former Voyage he had gone up the Streights of Juan de Fuca in the Sloop Wash- ington about 17 leagues in an East by South direction & finding he did not meet with encouragement as a Trader to pursue it further he returnd back & came out to Sea again the very same way he had enterd—he was therefore struck with astonishment when we informd him of the sweeping tract of several degrees which Mr Mears had given him credit for in his Chart & publication. He further informd us that in his present Voyage he had been 9 months on the Coast & winterd at Cloiquat a district a little to the Eastward of Nootka where he built a small sloop which was at this time employd in collecting Furs to the Northward about Queen Charlotte’s Isles—That in the Winter the Natives of Cloiquat calling to their aid 3 or 4 other Tribes collected to the number of upwards of three thousand to attack his Vessel, but their premeditated schemes being discoverd to him by a Native of the Sandwich Islands he had on board whom the Chiefs had attempted to sway over to their diabolic plots in solliciting him to wet the locks & priming of the Musquets & Guns before they boarded. By this means he was fortunately enabled by timely precautions to frustrate their horrid stratagems at the very moment they had assembled to execute them. / He likewise told us that last year the Natives to the Northward of Queen Charlotte’s Isles had murderd his Chief Mate & two Seamen while they were employd fishing in a small Boat a little distance from the Ship, & that the Natives of Queen Charlotte’s Isles had surprizd an Ameri- can Brig the Lady Washington commanded by Mr Kendrick Menzies’ Journal. & kept posession of her for upwards of two hours, when the united exertions of the Master & Crew happily liberated them from the impending destruction & made the Natives quit their prize in a precipitate flight in which a vast number of them lost their lives. On this occasion the Natives had watchd an opportunity to posess themselves of the arm chests on deck while open, by which stratagen they were able to arm themselves & disarm the Ship’s company, but the latter rallying on them afterwards from below with what arms they could collect, renderd their vile scheme abortive. As soon as the Boat was hoisted in we made sail & pursued our course along shore till about noon when we enterd the famous Streights of Juan de Fuca. The weather was at this time so thick & hazy that we had no observation to determine our Latitude. The whole shore we saild along this forenoon is steep & rocky & entirely lind with a vast number of elevated rocks & Islets of different forms & sizes, but the land itself is of a very moderate height coverd with Pines & stretching back with a very gradual acclivity to form an inland ridge of high mountains in which Mount Olympus claimd a just preeminence. / We saw no point worthy of particular notice in the situation Capt Cook places Cape Flattery, the South point of de Fuca’s entrance tho about three leagues further to the Northward agrees better with his description of it than any other on this part of the Coast. About a Mile or two off this South point of entrance is a flat naked Island coverd with verdure & facd round with steep rocks, round the North end of which we hauld into the Streights passing between it & a small Rock showing above water about a mile to the Northward of it, where we met a rippling of the Tide which at first occasiond some alarm till the cause became evident. Some Canoes came off to us from a village on this Island which was not seen till we passed it as it is situated on a chasm on the East Side of it, This is what Mr Mears called the village of Tatootche, & though we had reason to believe that we saw most of its inhabitants at this time about the Rocks upon the Beach & in their Canoes gazing on us as we passed, yet we think that we should over rate their number if we were to call it as many hundreds as that author has estimated them thousands. Washington Coast. 15 1792. April 29th. Juan de Fuca’s Straits. Capt. Barclay’s ‘* boat’s crew, however, was despatched, and discovered the extraordi- nary straits John de Fuca, and also the coast as far as Queenhythe.’’ ( ?Queniult. ) Meares, Voy., Obserys. on Prob. Bxist. of N.W. Passage, LV. Mt. Olympus, alt. 8,150 ft. See) BL EY.; Mem. I. of this series. Sketch of the Entrance of the Straits of Fuca, by Duncan, 1788. 16 Menzies’ Journal. | Strait of Fuca. 1792. April 29th. Cape Claaset 0. Duncan, l.c. Neeah Bay. Puer to Nunez Gaona of the Spaniards. April 30th. A little after we passed this green Island we had a transient view of the Pinnacle Rock close to the shore of *! Cape Clanset, but at this distance it did not appear to us so very remarkable as it is represented, nor did it answer the idea we had been lead to form of its situation, for we earnestly lookd for it as we were passing on the Outside of the Cape but could not then distinguish it from the high Cliffs behind it. / As we kept close to the Southern Shore in passing the Village of Clanset we had light fluctuating winds which afforded several of the Natives an opportunity of visiting us but the weather being thick & rainy their stay was very short. About 5 Miles within the Streights we saw the appearance of a small Cove shelterd by a little Island where the Spaniards about a Month afterwards attempted to establish a Settlement & sent a Vessel commanded by a Lieutenant for that purpose from Nootka. The Columbia who bore up along shore & followd us into the Streights kept under way all night but there being little wind, & that chiefly against us we anchord a little before dark under the Southern Shore about three leagues from the Entrance. (Half a page blank in the original.) Having now enterd on our interior examination of Juan de Fuca’s Streights, we on the morning of the 30th of April both weighd Anchor & after making Sail steerd to the Eastward along the Southern shore on a firm supposition that it was the Continental shore which we had tracd thus far from a little to the Southward of Cape Mendocino. We were favord with a fine Westerly breeze which soon dispersd the Fog & brought with it fair & clear weather. In the forenoon as we went along Canoes came off to us here & there from the Shore with Sea Otter Skins for which they askd Copper or Cloth, but they were able to keep with us a very short time as we had a fair fresh breeze. The Columbia was seen again working out of the Streights, & it would now seem as if the Commander of her did not put much confidence in what we told him of our pursuit, but had probably taken us for rivals in trade and followd us into the Streights to have his share in the Menzies’ Journal. gleanings of those Villages at the entrance, & this is con- formable to the general practice among traders on this Coast, which is always to mislead competitors as far as they can even at the expence of truth. Towards noon we edged into midchannel to have the advantage of a meridian altitude which gave our Latitude 48° 18’ about 12 leagues to the Eastward of the South point of entrance. The Streights appear in general to be about 3 or 4 leagues wide, the Southern Shore / is nearly streight with- out forming any very striking points or bays—it rises steep into Mountains near the entrance of a very moderate height, but as we advancd to the Eastward to very high mountains coverd with impenetrable forests of Pines till near their summits, where they were capt with snow in abundance as were also some Mountains in our view on the North side. We were not above 18 leagues from the Entrance, when the Streights widend out to 9 or Io leagues across, we how- ever continud our course along the southern shore & in the evening went round the point of a low sandy spit which jutted out from it in very shallow water, when we came to an anchor on the East side of it in 14 fathoms fine black sand about half a mile from the spit which appeard a long ridge of sand strewd over with a good deal of drift wood & some high poles kept erect by four or five supporting poles round the bottom of each—What was meant by these we were at a loss to determine. We were now about 20 leagues inland in an East by South direction true from Cape Clanset—The Country assumd a very different appearance, the land near the water side was low mostly coverd with Pines to the very verge of a fine stony & sandy Beach, but in the North East quarter a very high solid ridge of Moun- tains was observd one of which was seen wholly coverd with Snow & with a lofty summit over topping all the others around it upwards of twenty leagues off nearly in a North East direction—This obtaind the name of Mount Baker after the Gentleman who first observd it. Next morning being the first of May I / accompanied Capt Vancouver & some of the Officers of both Vessels who set out pretty early, in two Boats from us, & one from the Chatham to examine the shore to the Eastward of us for a Harbour. Strait of Fuca. 17 1792. April 30th. New Dungeness. Pta. de Santa Cruz, Caamano, 1790. The poles for nets used to trap birds as mentioned by Seouler, 1825, and many subsequent travellers. See Appendix. Mt. Baker, alt. 10,827 ft. M. del Carmelo of Spaniards, 1790. May ist. 18 Menzies’ Journal. Strait of Fuca. 1792. May Ist. I. de Carrasco of Quimper, 1790. Valerianella congesta (Sea-blush). Port Discovery. Pto. de la Bodega y Quadra of Quimper, 1790. Carr Point, on west shore. When we left the Vessels it was a little foggy & calm, but clearing up soon after it became exceeding pleasant & serene, which added not a little to our enjoyment in this days excursion. We kept along shore to the South eastward starting in our way vast flights of water fowl such as Auks Divers Ducks & Wild Geese, which were so exceeding shy that the sportsmen had very little opportunity of shewing their dexterity. After a row of about four leagues we came to an Island the rural appearance of which strongly invited us to stretch our limbs after our long confined situation on board & the dreary sameness of a tedious voyage. Its north west side was guarded by a high naked perpendicular cliff of reddish earth & sand quite inaccessable, but the South side presented a sloping bank coverd with green turf so even & regular as if it had been artificially formed. We found on landing that Vegetation had already made great progress, the shore was skirted with long grass & a variety of wild flowers in full bloom, but what chiefly daz- zled our eyes on this occasion was a small species of wild Valerian with reddish colord flowers growing behind the beach in large thick patches. On ascending the Bank to the summit of the Island, a rich lawn beautified with nature’s luxuriant bounties burst at once on our view & impressd us with no less pleasure than novelty—It was abundantly croppd with a variety of grass clover & wild flowers, here & there adornd by aged pines with wide spreading horizontal / boughs & well shel- terd by a slip of them densely copsed with Underwood stretching along the summit of the steep sandy cliff, the whole seeming as if it had been laid out from the pre- meditated plan of a judicious designer. To the Northward & North west ward the eye roved over a wide expanse of water which seemd to penetrate the distant land through various openings & windings, but a little to the South East of us appeard an Inlet which promisd fair for affording good shelter for the Vessels—Its entrance presents a prospect truly inviting with gentle rising banks on both sides coverd with fine verdure & tufted with tall trees loosely scatterd, we therefore embarkd to examine it & went up about 4 miles, some walkd along shore on a fine pebbly beach, others were employd sounding in the Boats till we came to a low sandy point on which we found a run of a ae Menzies’ Journal. Port Discovery. fresh water sufficient to answer all our purposes with good iy anchorage close to it & the whole well shelterd by the favour- | ite Island we had left shortning the entrance which on that account obtaind the name of Protection Island. Here we kindled a fire & regald ourselves with some refreshment, after which we returnd on board where we arrivd about midnight each well satisfied with the success & pleasure of this days excursion. In going into the Harbour one of the Gentlemen shot a small animal which diffusd through the air a most dis- agreeable & offensive smell, I was anxious to take it on board for examination & made it fast to the bow of the Cutter, but the stink it emitted was so intolerable that I was obligd to relinquish my prize. I took it to be the Skunk or Polecat. In the absence of the Boats this day the / Vessels were visited by several of the Natives from a small Village abreast of them who brought some fish to barter for trinkets. At day light on the 24 both Vessels weighd & with a light air of wind from the Westward proceeded towards the Harbour we had visited on the preceeding day, which we enterd about 9 & with the assistance of the Boats towing a head soon after came to off the low Sandy point in 34 fathoms over a black stiff Clayey bottom. In passing within Protection Island & entring the Harbour, the right hand shore was kept close aboard which was found pretty steep & the most eligible Channel. In the afternoon I accompanied Capt Vancouver to the head of the Harbour which we found to terminate in a muddy bank of shallow water on which the Pinnace grounded—This lead to the discovery of a species of small Oyster with which the bottom was plentifully strewd but being now out of season they were poor & ill flavord & con- sequently not worth collecting. We then landed on the East Side where we saw the remains of a deserted village of a few houses one of which had been pretty large & in make resembled the Nootka habitations as described by Capt Cook, but neither of them seemd to have been inhabited for some time. Ona Tree close to it we found the skeleton of a child which was carefully wrapped up in some of the Cloth of the Country made from the Bark of a Tree & some Matts, but at this time it afforded tenement to a brood of young 19 1st. Skunk. May 2nd. Near the pres- ent Junction City, Wash. Ostrea lurida (the Olympie Oyster). 20 Menzies’ Journal Port Discovery. 1792. May 2nd. Acer macrophyllum (Sycamore or Great Maple of Menz), Alnus orgona, Pirus diversifolia, and Arbutus Menziesii. May 3rd. Gibb Point. May 4th. Calypso bulbosa (False Lady-slipper). Rhododendron californicum (Large-flowered Rhododendron). Arctostaphylos tomentosa (Manzanita). Mice which ran out of it as soon as we touchd it—A wooden Cup was found close to it on the same tree & a bunch of small yew Boughs fastend together, which were probably the remains / of some superstitious ceremony. Besides a variety of Pines we here saw the Sycamore Maple—the American Aldar—a species of wild Crab & the Oriental Strawberry Tree, this last grows to a small Tree & was at this time a peculiar ornament to the Forest by its large clusters of whitish flowers & ever green leaves, but its peculiar smooth bark of a reddish brown colour will at all times attract the Notice of the most superficial observer. —We met with some other Plants which were new to me & which shall be the subject of particular description hereafter. On our return in the evening we found the Tents & Marquee pitchd on the low point near the Vessels together with the Observatory in which the Astronomical Quadrant was fixd for taking equal altitudes to ascertain the rate of the Time-keepers. Next day being remarkably serene pleasant weather part of our Powder was landed on another low point at a little distance to be aired under the care of the Gunner, & this duty was daily attended to till the whole stock was perfectly dried—The Seamen began to repair the rigging & the Mechanics were severally occupied in their different employments, while my botanical pursuits kept me suffi- ciently engaged in arranging & examining the collections I had already made. On the 4th I landed opposite to the Ship to take an excursion back into the Woods which I had hardly enterd when I met with vast abundance of that rare plant the Cypropedium bulbosom / which was now in full bloom & grew about the roots of the Pine Trees in very spungy soil & dry situations. I likewise met here with a beautiful shrub the Rhododendrum ponticum & a new species of Arbutus with glaucous leaves that grew bushy & 8 or to feet high, besides a number of other plants which would be too tedious here to enumerate. In this days route I saw a number of the largest trees hollowd by fire into cavities fit to admit a person into, this I conjecturd might be done by the Natives either to screen them from the sight of those animals they meant to ensnare or afford them a safe retreat from others in case of being g & PH RF = From Vancouver's 8. 17 London, Port Discovery, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget Sound to mouth of Fraser River. Atlas. abate ? of as Menzies’ Journal. Port Discovery. ay pursued, or it may be the means they have of felling large the trees for making their Canoes, by which they are thus partly | scoopd out. Next day in the forenoon some Natives came along side in a Canoe with Fish & a few pieces of Venison for which they found a ready Market & soon after left us having nothing else to dispose of & seemingly little curiosity to gratify, our appearance affording them no degree of novelty lead us to suppose that ours was not the first European Vessel with which they had had intercourse, tho’ from the few European commodities we saw amongst them the inter- course did not appear to be very extensive. From the affinity of their dress Canoe & language they appeard to be of the same nation with the Nootka Tribe & were like them fondest of Copper & Brass Trinkets for their Ears; they also took Iron with which Metal many of their arrows were barbed. / In strolling about the verge of the wood with some of the officers, we saw several stumps of small trees as if they had been cut down with an Axe not many months ago, from this it was thought probable that some other Vessel might have been here before us, as I never observd the Natives on any part of this Coast make use of an Axe in felling of Timber of any kind preferring always an Instru- ment of their own construction somewhat in the form of a small adze which hackd it in a very different manner from an Axe. The Carpenters were now employd in Caulking & on the various necessary repairs—the Blacksmiths had their Forge going on shore—a party were cutting down fire wood —Another brewing Beer from a species of Spruce—in short the weather being so favorable & vivifying every spring was set in motion to forward our refitment. The 6th being a day of relaxation parties were formd to take the recreation of the shore & strolling through the woods in various directions saw in one place a number of human bones deposited in a thicket & coverd carefully over with Planks, others were found suspended in an old Canoe coverd with the bark of Trees & with Moss, but what much surprizd them in one place of the wood they came to was a clear Area where there had been a large fire round which they found a number of incinerated bones & about half a 4th. May 5th. More probably belonged to the Salishan (Clallam) people. May 6th. See illustra- tions by Warre in Sketches of N. Am. & Oreg. Terr. and Kane in Wanderings of an Artist. 22 Menzies’ Journal. Port Discovery. 1792. May 6th. Meares, Voy., pp. 255-6-7. This Chimera is now listed as Hydrolagus Colliei. May 7th. Point Wilson. dozen human skulls scattered about the Area—This lead to various conjectures, some supposing it to be a place allotted for human sacrifices made to banquet the unnatural gor- mondizing appetites of the Inhabitants who in a late publi- cation are all / alledged to be Cannibals but without any rational proof that brings the least conviction to my mind. The number of human bones seen in different parts of the Harbour almost equally advanced in decay would rather lead us to suppose that Battle had been fought here at a period not very remote & that the vanquishd on that occasion suf- ferd by the refined cruelties of their Conquerors on the above spot, for it is the known practice of the American Tribes on the opposite Coast to burn their vanquishd enemies & it is not improbable that the same horrid custom prevails here. The Seine was daily hauled at the Tents & with some degree of success though we seldom obtaind a sufficient supply for all hands, the fish generally caught were Bream of two or three kinds, Salmon & Trout & two kind of flat fish, one of which was a new species of Pleuronectes, with Crabs which were found very good & palatable & we sel- dom faild in hauling on shore a number of Elephant Fish (Chimera Callorhynchus) & Scolpings (Cottus scorpius) but the very appearance of these was sufficient to deter the use of them, they therefore generally remaind on the Beach. Early on the morning of the 7th I set out with Capt Vancouver & some of the Officers in three Boats manned & armed & provided with five days provision, our object was to examine & explore the country to the eastward of us, We proceeded out of the Port with foggy weather & little wind & keeping the right hand shore close on board we rowed for about two leagues to the North East ward, where we enterd a large opening which took a Southerly direction & which afterwards obtaind the name of Admui- ralty Inlet, but as the weather continued still very foggy we landed on the point till it should clear up a little, & took several hauls of a / small Seine we had in the Boat but without the least success. A little before noon the Fog dispersd when we saw the opening we had enterd go to the South Eastward a considerable extent & a little distance from us another arm branching off to the Southward, we walkd along shore to the Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 24 point of this arm which we reachd by noon when a Meridian Altitude by a quick silver horizon gave our Latitude 48° 7’ 30” North. In this walk I found growing in the Crevices of a small rock about mid way between the two points a new Speices of Claytonia, & as I met with it no where else in my journeys, it must be considerd as a rare plant in this country. I namd it Claytonia furcata & took a rough sketch of it which may be seen in my collections of Drawings. The shores here are sandy & pebbly—the point we came to was low & flat with some Marshy ground behind it & a pond of water surrounded with willows & tall bulrushes, behind this a green bank stretchd to the Southward a little distance from the shore which was markd with the beaten paths of Deer & other Animals. While dinner was getting ready on the point I ascended this Bank with one of the Gentlemen & strolled over an extensive lawn, where solitude rich pasture & rural prospects prevaild—It presented an uneven surface with slight hollows & gentle risings inter- spersd with a few straddling pine trees & edged behind with a thick forest of them that coverd over a flat country of very moderate height & renderd the Western side of this arm a pleasant & desirable tract of both pasture & arable land where the Plough might enter at once without the least obstruction, & where / the Soil though light & gravelly appeard capable of yielding in this temperate climate luxu- riant Crops of the European Grains or of rearing herds of Cattle who might here wander at their ease over extensive fields of fine pasture, though the only posessors of it we saw at this time were a few gigantic Cranes of between three & four feet high who strided over the Lawn with a lordly step. To the North east of us across Admiralty Inlet which is about a league wide we had from this eminence a most delightfull & extensive landscape, a large tract of flat coun- try coverd with fine Verdure & here & there interspersd with irregular clumps of trees whose dark hue made a beautiful contrast aided by the picturesque appearance of a rugged barrier of high mountains which at some distance terminated our prospect in lofty summits coverd with perpetual snow. After dinner we proceeded examining this southerly arm, dividing the boats for the purpose of sounding & 1792. May 7th. Neither the species nor the sketch are quoted by Hooker and other authors. Point Hudson. Probably Grus mezicana (the Sandhill Crane). 24 Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 1792. May 7th. Port Hadlock. Salicornia ambigua (Samphire or Glasswort). Kilisut. May 8th. exploring & fixing on a distant point as a place of meet- ing in the evening. Invited by the enchanting appearance of the Country & fine serene weather, I walkd with Capt Vancouver & some others along the Western shore for a considerable distance as it afforded me an opportunity of exploring for natural productions as I went along. After a long walk we met with a thick pine forest which obligd us to embark & the shore here taking an Easterly direction we rowd along it & towards evening we found the arm also winding a little to the Eastward & terminate in a small basin of shallow water being here divided only from the end of another arm by a flat muddy beach / coverd with thick beds of marsh samphire. Being thus satisfied of its termination we returnd back to the place of rendezvous where we met Lt Puget with the Long Boat, but Mr Johnstone who had crossed over to the Eastern shore of the arm was lead into an armlet which he supposd would join with ours a little further on & that after exploring it he would be able to meet us in the evening at the place appointed, after pulling a long way he found his mistake & being late he took up his quarters in it all night, so that we were separated for the evening, in consequence of which this armlet obtaind the name of Johnstone’s decoy, it takes nearly a South East direction & is very narrow at the entrance. The next morning was calm & pleasant & we set off on our return back in expectation of meeting Mr Johnstone whose Swivels we heard at a considerable distance pretty early, he joind us about 9 after a fatigueing row where we were at the entrance of a small brook filling our water Cags; here we met with some detention by the Long Boat getting aground upon a flat with a falling Tide, but in the mean time the Pinnace went over to the opposite shore to take Angles & prepare Breakfast, so that there was very little time lost. After the Long Boat floated they all three pulld to the Northward & while we walkd along the Eastern shore & on a Beach a little to the Southward of Johnstone’s decoy, not far from where we Breakfasted we saw two human heads impaled upon the points of two poles erected a few yards asunder & about twelve feet high, part of the Skin about the Chin was hanging down, but the rest of the face teeth & black long hair was entire in each— / The poles enterd under the Chin pierced their Vertex, & in Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 25 their formation, the poles had a degree of uniformity that | 1792. May 8th. requird a good deal of trouble. Having crossd over the entrance of Johnstone’s decoy we enterd on a low narrow beach about a mile long, on the middle of which we found nine or ten long poles erected in a row at nearly equa! distances from one another which was about ninety or a hundred yards apart, Each pole was lengthend by two pieces neatly joind together to about go feet high terminat- ing with a Trident by leaving the stumps of two opposite branches & the middle piece about a foot long at the extremity of the upper Pole, The heel of each was sunk: in the ground & was further shord up by four other poles each about 30 feet long which spread out round the bottom & fastend about the middle pole as supporters. What was the intention or meaning of the Natives in erecting these poles with so much pains & trouble we were at a loss to form the most distant conjecture, we saw some of the same kind erected upon other Beaches since we came into the Streights but no where so numerous & regular as here. Having now finishd our examination of the first small Arm which was namd Port Townsend, we pursued our walk to the South East along the shore of Admiralty Inlet & passed some perpendicular sandy Cliffs which exposd to view some thick strata of fine Fullers Earth. A white animal was also seen which we supposd to be a Dog about the size of a large Fox but it made off so quick into the Woods that those who saw it were not certain what it was. About noon we reachd a low point which was the | pasait point. most / distant one we saw in this direction when the fog cleard up on the forenoon of the preceeding day & from this though the arm inclind a little more to the Southward yet it was so trifling that the same general direction to the South Eastward continued for about 4 or 5 leagues further & then it appeard to be separated by a bluff point into two | routweatner arms one of which seemd to take a more easterly direction. |°°'"* The Arm was still between 2 & 3 miles wide & appeard a fine navigable Channel for Vessels of any burden. Having dind on this point which was flat with a salt marsh & pond behind it we embarkd in the afternoon & separated on different pursuits with the Boats, but made the bluff point we saw ahead the place of meeting again in the evening. From this Point we had a fine view of 26 Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 1792. May 8th. Mt. Rainier, alt. 14,408 ft. May 9th. Quercus Garryana (Garry Oak). May 10th. Port Ludlow. a very lofty round topped mountain coverd with Snow about five & twenty leagues off nearly in a South East direction which afterwards obtaind the Name of Mount Raimer in Latitude 47° 3 North & Longitude 238° 21’ East. The Weather in the afternoon was Cloudy with Showers which in the evening began to rain very hard & became foggy, we rowd hard to gain our intended place of rendezvous but our endeavours provd fruitless on account of a strong tide of Ebb which set against us, & the night was so very dark & foggy with excessive rain that the only means we had of keeping together was by frequent firing of Muskets, at last the night being far advancd all idea of reaching the intended place this even- ing was given up & we rowd in for the Starboard / shore & went along it for some way before we could find a landing place to pitch our Tents & kindle a fire on, the latter was found a very difficult task it being so dark & every thing so wet, it was midnight before we could get under any kind of shelter & then every thing about us was completely drenchd, & in this situation the greatest part of the Boats Crews passed the night without any covering to shelter them from the inclemency of the weather. The following day continud thick rainy weather so that we could not stir to any advantage——As intervals of fair or clear weather permitted parties strolld along the Beach & met with some Oak Trees on which account our present situation was called Oak Cove, it stretches a little to the Westward & nearly meets the termination of Port Towns- end as has been already noticed. The morning of the 1oth was fair & we set out again pretty early to explore the Southern Arm, after crossing Oak Cove we kept the Starboard Shore on board & about nine fell in with a few Canoes of Indians seemingly a fish- ing party as they had no women with them or any thing to trafic—We landed soon after on the inside of the point of a Cove which was named Indian Cove to Breakfast & about eighteen of the Natives landed close to us upon the Beach, where they very quietly laid down their Bows & Quivers upon the stump of a tree & sat themselves down very peaceably. They were but indifferently cloathd with the Skins of Animals chiefly / Deer Lynx Martin & Bear Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 27 Skins, One of them had a very large skin of the brown {1792. Tyger Felis concolor which was some proof of that Animal Minty being found thus far to the Northward on this side of the Continent, but we saw very little of the Sea Otter Skins among them, which also shows that that Animal is not fond of penetrating far inland—tThe rocky cliffs near the Point where we breakfasted abounded with the Terra ponderosa aerata & on the Beach was found different kinds of Iron Ore & a variety of the siliceous order. After distributing some Trinkets among the Indians who readily accepted of any thing that was offerd them, & who appeard to speak a different language from those at the entrance of the Streights, we embarkd & in crossing over the Cove saw a small village at the bottom of it, to which the Natives who were with us went after we parted. On the opposite point to where we breakfasted the | rouweather Latitude observd was 47° 56’ N & we went but little further |" when we found the tide of Ebb run so strong to the North- ward together with a fresh breeze of wind that we were compelld to wait till the Flood made in our favor, & then proceeded till in the afternoon we reachd a round clump of trees which had the appearance of an Island but which we | Hannon Point. found joind by a narrow beach to the Western Shore, from this the arm took a South Westerly direction which we pursued till dark, & then / stopped for the night which was serene & pleasant on a snug Beach where we were very comfortable on the Larb? shore. The country on both sides of the arm still preservd a very moderate height & every where coverd with pine forests close down to the Beach & this afternoon I found on the western side a good number of hazle nut Trees for the first time on this | coryius side of America. Gua Next morning at day break we set out pursuing this | May 11th. Arm which was nearly two Miles wide in a Southerly | pooa’s canal direction with fair weather but little or no wind. In the |°% V@nccver- afternoon we found a branch going off in a North West | pabop Bay. direction which we followd to its termination & finding it only a deep Bay we returnd back along the opposite shore & about dark pitchd our tents for the night near its South- ern point of Entrance. At a place we landed on near the bottom of the Bay I saw vast abundance of a beautiful new | 7oerinium species of Vaccinium with ever green leaves in full bloom, | fiutvicrerry). 28 Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 1792. May 11th. May 12th. Rhamnus Purshianus (Cascara Sagrada) and Ceanothus velutinus. it grew bushy & was of a dark green colour like Myrtles which it much resembled in its general appearance. I had seen it before in several other places since we came into the Streights but no where in such perfection as here, I therefore employd this afternoon in making a delineation of it as we went along in the Boat. We felt it exceeding cold next morning before the sun got up, the Mercury in a Thermometer exposd to the open Air was so low as 42° of Farenheit’s scale, this was occasiond by our being close under that high ridge of Mountains with snowy summits which support the Peaks of Mount Olympus & which now lay between us / & the sea coast, but their sides were every where coverd with one continued forest of Pinery. Soon after day break we were again in motion pursuing the Arm which still lead to the Southward & as we stopt about noon to get a Meridian Altitude we were overtaken by a Canoe with two men who made signs to us that there were more before us. The Seine was hauld with indifferent success while I took a stroll about the Woods where I found three different kinds of Maple & a Rhamnus Arbutus & Ceanothus that were new to me beside several others. After dinner we set out to continue our examination of the arm which was now hemmed in by lofty Mountains on one side & low flat country of considerable extent on the other. About five in the afternoon we observd smoke & some Natives on a Beach on the Starboard shore to which we pulled in with the Boats & on landing found two or three families occupied in drying & smoking of Clams skewerd upon small rods—We saw but a few men, the women & Children having fled into the Woods at our approach & from all appearance their residence seemd to be a temporary one merely for the purpose of drying & collecting of fish—They told us that more Natives were on the opposite point where the arm seemd to take an Easterly direction, we crossed over & found them more numerous living on the Beach without any kind of habi- tation shelter or covering whatever which leads us to conclude that they were only a foraging party in pursuit of Game collecting & drying of fish / for we procurd from them a number of Salmon & flat fish & the men purchasd several Bear Skins but we saw no Sea Otter Skins among Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 29 them. Several of them were pock markd—a number of them had lost an eye, & amongst them were some whose faces we recollected seeing in Indian Cove, this was better confirmd by finding in their posession some of the Trinkets we had there distributed—They had also Iron Chinese Cashes (a kind of base Money pierced with a hole) & beads which clearly showed that they had had either a direct or indirect communication with the Traders on the exterior part of the Coast. On this point we saw some Oak but in a very dwarf state & on the opposite shore saw pretty large Trees of Maple American Aldar & several other Plants which I had not before observd on this Coast. Having spent some little time with the Indians & satisfied ourselves with respect to the termination of the Arm, we could do nothing else but return back the way we came, & for the night which was fine & pleasant we rested at a little distance from the Indians without the least disturbance or Molestation. At day light on the 13th we set out on our return to the Vessels & had the mortification for the first time since our departure to find a fresh Northerly breeze right in our teeth, which made our progress not only slow but exceed- ingly laborious for the people who kept pulling on their Oars the whole day with very little intermission till nine at night / when we landed & pitchd our Tents to enjoy a little repose, These exertions became now necessary on account of the exhausted state of our provisions. The next morning was calm & pleasant but it soon after became dark & gloomy with fluctuating airs in every direction. We set off again by the dawn of day & about three in the afternoon we reachd as far as the bluff point at the Division of the two Arms, when it became very thick & foggy & began to rain very hard with Easterly wind, & as it was the intention to look into the arm leading to the South East we landed & erected our Tents upon a fine plain to the Southward of the Point in hopes that the following day would be more favorable for the pursuit. In strolling about the Beach one of the gentlemen knockd down an animal about the size of a Cat with a stone & as he was going to pick it up it ejected a fluid of the most offensive smell & impregnated the air that no one could remain any 4 1792. May 12th. Meares and other traders had crossed from China to the North-west Coast with Chinese in their crews. May 13th. May 14th. Foulweather Bluff. 30 Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 1792. time within some distance of where it fell. I satisfied Skunk. myself however that it was the Skunk (Viverra Putorius). May 15th. The morning of the 15th was thick fogg with constant Port Discovery again. North-western Redwing (Agelaius phoeniceus caurinus). May 16th. rain which entirely frustrated the design of any further researches, & as all our provisions were now expended we were obligd to set out pretty early for the Vessels without waiting the return of fine weather, in this we were luckily assisted by a fresh breeze from the South East which enabled us to reach the Port by three in the afternoon, wet hungry & uncomfortable. In this excursion which carried us about (blank) Miles in a southerly direction from the Port we saw only the few Natives / I have already mentioned, silence & solitude seemd to prevail over this fine & extensive country, even the featherd race as if unable to endure the stillness that pervaded every where had in a great measure abandond it & were therefore very scarce—A few large Cranes that inhabited the inland pastures, some white headed eagles that hoverd over the Arms & pearchd in the trees on both sides watching for fish seemingly their only prey, a few Ducks that were seen in two or three places on the ponds behind the points & a kind of small Blackbird with red Shoulders (Oriolus phenicius) that hopped about amongst the Bulil- rushes with a few Crows that seemed to accompany the Indians comprehended our ornithological list of this exten- sive tract. We found every where a due depth of Water for the purposes of Navigation but fresh water was scarce, a few runs we here & there fell in with supplied our wants but many of these would no doubt be dried up in the summer months. The land on each side of us was of a moderate height & nearly level till we came to the foot of that ridge of lofty mountains between us & the sea coast which extended as far to the South ward as we went. On the 16th the wind was light & unsettled with Rain & thick weather—We were visited by some of the Natives in a single Canoe & during our absence they frequented the Port in greater numbers, one day in particular about thirty came in four or five Canoes & they always behavd them- selves quiet & harmless—They all spoke a dialect of the Nootkan language, hence it is / probable that this forms the Eastern boundary of that great & numerous nation, though I am inclind to think that its limits hardly extend so Menzies’ Journal. Port Discovery. 31 far & that the permanent habitations of these visitors are | 1792. situated much nearer the sea coast from which foraging meets parties occasionally come up here in pursuit of fish & game for sustenance. The ship being found crank 20 Tons of shingle bal- last was got on board & Lieut Broughton & Mr Whidbey employd themselves in making an accurate survey of the Harbour & settling its exact situation by a vast number of astronomical Observations, the result of which gave the Latitude of the Observatory 48° 2’ 30” North & 237° 22’ 20” East longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. Captain Vancouver named it Port Discovery but we after- wards found that the Spaniards had named it Port Quadra the year before, & having then anchord in it, surely gives their name a prior right of continuing, to prevent that con- fusion of names which are but too common in new discoverd countries. The wooding watering & every other necessary refit-| may 17th. ment being now compleated, the following day was employd in getting every thing ready for leaving Port Quadra—The Tents & Observatory were struck & sent on board with the Astronomical Instruments & Time-keepers—I employd the day in getting on board some live plants which were new to me as I did not know that I should any where else meet with them, & in planting them in the frame on the Quarter Deck. At day / light on the 18th of May we both weighd | may 1stn. anchor & with light variable airs of wind & the assistance of the boats ahead we got out of Port Quadra by the Channel to the Eastward of Protection Island, as Captain Vancouver was going to land on that Island to take some bearing I went with him to have another short stroll on that delightfull spot & among other Plants I collected I was not a little surprizd to meet with the Cactus opuntia| Prickly Pear thus far to the Northward, it grew plentifully but in a titers Fe very dwarf state on the Eastern point of the Island which |’°**” is low flat & dry sandy soil. About noon the Vessels were advanced between the Island & the Main when in our return we called on board the Chatham where Captain Vancouver left orders for a short separation of the Vessels. At this time a fresh breeze sprung up at West with which we steerd for Admiralty 32 1792. May 18th. Haro Strait. On west shore of Whidbey Id. ?Mutiny Bay. May 19th. Foulweather Bluff. Possession Sd. Restoration Point. Blake Id. Colvos Passage. The second passage runs S.E., not S.W. May 20th. Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. Inlet whilst the Chatham hauld up to the North West ward being dispatchd to look into a large opening that appeard in that direction on the other side of this large gulph, & after obtaining what information they could of the size & general direction of it & the other branches in that quarter they were directed to follow us into Admiralty Inlet pur- suing the South East Arm that was left unexplored by the Boats & keeping the Starboard shore of it aboard till they fell in with us. We soon after enterd Admiralty Inlet & passing Port Townsend on our right continued our course with a moder- ate breeze till about five in the afternoon when we came to an Anchor on the Larboard Shore in 28 fathoms water about 10 or 12 miles from the Entrance. About 8 in the morning we weighd & made Sail with the tide of flood in our favor to the South Eastward, Soon after we passed the bluff Point & enterd the New Arm which preservd nearly the same width & general direction & which we continued sailing up with a fine breeze from the N W.—On our left hand we passed a wide opening going off to the Northward & soon after on our right a pleasant point coverd with the richest verdure in Latitude 47° 38’ north & Longitude 237° 46 East on which we observd a small village & some Natives, To the South- ward of this the Shore inclind in to a large Bay with a round Island of it coverd with wood, after passing which we found that the arm here divided into two branches, one going to the Southward which was narrow & another to the Southwestward, on which account we hauld in for the Starboard Shore & came to an Anchor about six in the evening on the inside of the Island in 35 fathoms water close to the inner point of it. A Canoe came along side with two or three men in her & after receiving some little presents they paddled off in great haste towards the Village we passed on the Point. Two Boats were now provided with arms ammunition & a weeks provision to go off in the morning to examine the Arm leading to the Southward, & though their mode of procedure in these surveying Cruizes was not very favorable for my pursuits as it afforded me so little time on shore at the different places we landed at, yet it was the most eligible I could at this time adopt for obtaining a general knowledge Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 33 of the produce of the Country, I therefore embarkd next morning before day light with / Lieutenant Puget in the Launch who commanded the party together with Mr Whidbey in the Cutter who was directed to continue the survey & about the dawn we enterd the Arm which lead to the Southward & appeard to be about half a league wide with sandy shores low land coverd with Trees to the waters edge on both sides, after pursuing it for about three leagues we passed at noon a large opening or rather deep bay going off to the Eastward & apparently ending among very low marshy land, & as we saw an opening on the North East side of this Bay, we conjecturd that it might probably join the other branch of the Arm & make the land we passed on our left hand in the forenoon an Island. Up this Bay we had a most charming prospect of Mount Rainier which now appeard close to us though at least 10 or 12 leagues off, for the low land at the head of the Bay swelled out very gradually to form a most beautiful & majestic Mountain of great elevation whose line of ascent appeard equally smooth & gradual on every side with a round obtuse summit coverd two thirds of its height down with perpetual Snow as were also the summits of a rugged ridge of Mountains that proceeded from it to the Northward. We pursued our Southerly direction with a strong flood tide in our favor & about two in the afternoon we came to another arm leading off to the Westward which we enterd & found a very strong tide against us. At this time we were at a loss how to account for this as it evidently appeard to be the flood tide by rising on the shore, though we after- wards found that it was occasioned by a number of Islands round which the Tide had reverted / & as it was very strong against us we disembarkd on the Point to dine till it should slacken a little. While we were here two Canoes passed on the opposite shore who dodged us at a distance several times in the forenoon, they afterwards crossed over & went into a small Cove close to us, where we soon followed them & on the Point of it saw a number of old deserted huts amongst the trees but saw none of the Indians till we were returning back from the end of the Cove, when we heard them hailing from the opposite shore, & as we began to pull across towards them we observd the women & children 1792. May 20th. Daleco passage leading to Commencement Bay. Vashon Id. Through ‘‘ The Narrows.’’ Hale Passage. Probably Fosdick Point. 34 Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 1792. May 20th. Ash (Frazrinus oregana) Mountain Ash (Pirus sitchensis). May 21st. Carr Inlet. Pigeon Guillemot (Cepphus columba). Herron Id. scudding into the woods loaded with parcels, but the Men put off from the shore in two Canoes to meet us, we made them some little presents to convince them of our amicable intentions, on which they invited us by signs to land, & the only one we found remaining on the Beach was an old woman without either hut or shelter, setting near their baskets of provision & stores, the former consisted chiefly of Clams some of which were dried & smoaked & strung up for the convenience of carrying them about their Necks, but a great number of them were still fresh in the shell which they readily parted with to our people for buttons beads & bits of Copper. After making some presents to their women whom we prevaild upon them to recall from the woods we left them & were followd by the two Canoes with some men in each till we brought up in the evening, & while we were erecting a small marquee for ourselves & a tent for the people they lay off at a little distance gazing on us with astonishment & greatly surprizd no doubt at the expeditious manner in / which we erected our houses, they staid with us till it was dark & then went to the opposite shore where they kindled a fire & staid for the night—Here I found some small trees of both the American & Mountain Ash neither of which I had before met with on this side of the Continent—The other Plants I saw in the course of this day were nearly the same as I had before examined in the other arm the former cruize. Early the next morning we were visited by the two Canoes who after we went off rushd on shore to examine the place we had occupied where we left them & soon after ran through a narrow gut leading to the Southward & winded round into a wide deep bay which lead off N W about 4 Miles, this we pursued passing on our right a high sandy Cliff in which a species of Diver burrowed very numerously like Swallows, we saw more of them in the Cliffs of a small Island a little further on which was also inhabited by a great number of Crows attending their young, here we landed & shot several of them which were found very good—We went but a little further on when we were convinced that the bottom of the Bay was entirely closed up by a low Beach & some naked marshy land behind it. As we were pulling across we saw some Natives before us on the western shore, three of whom put off in a Canoe Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 35 to meet us, we made them amicable signs to come along side 1792. of the Boat, but no inducement could make them venture |*” near us, on the contrary they with menacing signs wanted us to return back the way we came, & treated with contempt the alluring presents we held up to them. As their disposi- tions were thus inimical it was not / thought prudent to give them any further uneasiness by visiting their habitations, it was however necessary to convince them by some means or other that we were still inclind to be friendly & an expedient was hit upon which answerd the purpose, Some Copper Iron Medals Buttons & other Trinkets were fastened on a piece of Board & left floating on the surface of the water while we pulled away to a little distance & sufferd the Indians to take it up, this was repeated two or three times with the same success, by this method they venturd to come along side of the Boats. They were three stout fellows, two of them were much pitted with the small pox & each destitute of a right eye. As we kept pulling along shore they followd us accepting of little presents but offering no return. On the whole their disposition appeard still shy & distrustfull notwithstanding our liberality & friendly behaviour towards them. They seemd to value Copper but would not part with their Bows or Arrows in exchange for it. They frequently mentioned the Words Poo Poo pointing to the direction we came from by which we sup- posed they meant the report of our Muskets which they might have heard while we were amusing ourselves in shooting young Crows on Crow Island. They kept call- ing now & then with a vociferous noise to other Indians on the opposite shore in which we could plainly perceive ourselves distinguished by the name of Poo Poo men. As the weather was now very sultry we hauld in for a small Creek on purpose to dine in the heat of the day, / here we found two or three small runs of water & was going to haul a small Seine we had in the Launch, but the appearance of six Canoes with about 20 people in them which our shy fol- lowers had collected by their voiciferous noise prevented it, These strangers paddled directly into the Creek & landed close to us, but a mark was drawn on the Beach which they perfectly understood to prevent their intermixing with our party till we had dind when we could better watch their motions & pilfering dispositions. 21st. 30 Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. SO The Indians being thus disposed, some in their Canoes, ; others setting down on the Beach close to them, we went to dinner on an elevated bank in the edge of the Woods between them & the Boats, with our fire arms loaded at hand, where we had not only the Boats in which the people were at dinner under our eye, but likewise the Natives, who were now joind by another Canoe with four men in her, & notwithstanding they had obeyd our request, we could not help conceiving that there was something suspicious & dis- trustfull in their behaviour, for they were all armed with Bows & Quivers well stored with Arrows, & there were no women with them. A little after they quitted the Beach & went into their Canoes where they appeard for some time in earnest consultation as if they had some deep plot in view, & we had no doubt but we were the subject of it, from their pointing sometimes to us on the Bank & then to the Boats, but as we were all armed & ready to act jointly from the Boats as well as from the Shore, we chose rather to conceal our suspicions & keep a / watch- full eye over their Motions. Soon after this we observd three Canoes stealing as it were towards the Boats, but they were called to & orderd back by expressive signs which they obeyd. In a little time another Canoe was seen coming into the Creek, & as she approachd almost all of them in a moment jumpd out from their Canoes on the Beach & were stringing their Bow with every apparent preparation for an attack. At first we thought it was to oppose the Canoe coming in but we soon perceivd that their aim was at us by seeing them advance in a body along the Beach over the line that had been drawn as a Mark & explaind to them, One man more daring than the rest jumpd up the Bank within a few yards of us with his Bow & Arrows ready in hand with intention as we thought of getting behind a tree where he could molest us with more safety. At this instant we all jumpd up with our Muskets in our hands ready to oppose them, & made them understand by menacing signs, that if they did (sic) return back again to their Canoes, we would that moment fire upon them, & they seeing the people in the Boats equally ready & armed at the same time they sneakd reluctantly back to their places, but as for the man who jumpd up the Bank, it was actually Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 37 necessary to point a Musket to his breast before the deter- mind villain would recede from his purpose. Having thus retird to their station seemingly much dissatisfied with the repulse / they met with & still in deep consultation & some of them sharpening their Arrows as if they were again preparing & had not yet given up their purposd attack. We however set down again to finish our Meal, & as we could no longer have the smallest doubt of their hostile intentions, we watchd their motions very nar- rowly & none of them were sufferd to approach near to us & had their temerity carried them so far as to discharge a single arrow at us the consequences would instantly be fatal to them, as it was determind to punish such an unprovokd attack with deservd severity to deter others from aspiring at such diabolic schemes & committing such atrocious actions, by which already too many have lost their lives on this Coast, a whole Boats Crew being cut off & massacred in the year 1787 not thirty leagues from our present situation, besides acts equally guilty & alarming to strangers. As they were convinced of our watchfull eye over their treacherous conduct & impressed with an idea of our readiness to oppose their hostilities, they now appeard somewhat irresolute how to act, & this was thought a good time to fire off one of our Swivels from the Launch that they might see we had other resources for their destruction besides those in our hands & more powerfull ones, but they shewd less fear or astonishment at either the report of the Swivel or the distant effect of the Shot than any Indians I / ever saw so little in the way of intercourse with civi- lized Nations. They however now seemd to relinquish their design & on seeing our things carried down to the Boat they began to offer their Bows & Arrows for sale which was a convincing sign of their peaceable intentions & they were readily purchased from them, as by this means we disarmd them in a more satisfactory manner. These people were in all about thirty in number & in general stout & resolute men—They had no women or Children with them which made us more suspicious of their designs—They had a number of skins such as Bears Lynxes Racoons Rabbets & Deers which they readily parted with for any kind of trinkets that were offerd them in exchange, 1792. May 21st. Belonged to the Imperial Eagle, Capt. Barkley. 38 Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 1792. May 21st. South Head ; Pitt Passage. May 22nd. Pitt Passage. Ketron Id. Triglochin maritimum (Sea Arrow Grass). but we saw no Otter Skins amongst them & I believe they were seldom to be met with so far inland. When the things were got into the Boats we set off to pursue our examination along shore which now took an easterly turn, followd by all the Canoes very amicably disposed, & offering every little thing they had in the way of barter, so that whatever was the cause of their late behaviour they now seemd wholly to forget it, & finding we were going out of the Bay they soon quitted us & paddled in different directions towards their habitations. In the afternoon the wind set in from the Southward with hard rain which obligd us to pitch our Tents pretty early on the western point of a narrow passage leading to the Southward opposite to the narrow gut we came through in the morning. On the morning of the 224 we had fine weather again with little wind, we set out pretty early & / rowed through the narrow passage after which finding we were amongst a number of large Islands which renderd the Survey & exam- ination more tedious & perplexing we stood to the Eastward as Mr Whidbey wishd to take up his former angular bear- ings in the main branch which we reachd about noon & landed on a small Island close to the Eastern Shore about two leagues to the Southward of where we quitted the same reach two days ago. Here we dind after which we pur- sued the main arm to the Southward & as we were standing for a point on the Western Shore we had very heavy rain thunder & lightning with dark hazy weather that obligd us to land in a commodious place near the Point & encamp for the night. Here three Canoes with some men in them came to us from the Eastern shore, they had a quantity of the young shoots of rasberries & of the Triglochin maritimum which they gave us to understand was good to eat & freely offerd us all they had which were accepted of & though we made no use of them yet we did not leave their generosity unpaid making a small present to each which was infinitely more valuable to them. We requested them to get us some fish & they went over immediately & brought us some Salmon & if we understood them right they told us there were plenty up a river on the eastern shore where they came Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 39 from—They paddled off again in the dusk of the evening so that we remaind quiet & unmolested all night. The morning of the 234 was so thick & foggy that we did not quit our place of Encampment till after breakfast when it cleard up so that we could go on with our exami- nation—We first / pulled over to the opposite shore in expectation of finding agreeable to the Account of the Natives a River & procuring some more fish, we found it a large Bay so flat & shallow that we could not approach near the shore seemingly backd by a large extent of Marshy Country, but we did not see any appearance of a River though there may probably be some large streams as the water was brakish, & as we were not likely to obtain a nearer view of them or gain any advantage from them we pursued the Arm which now took a sudden turn to the North West, followd by a number of Canoes which joind us from the large Bay, & as we were pulling on our Oars without any wind they easily kept up with us for some time & behavd very peaceably, & as I found one of them very communicative I amused myself in obtaining some knowledge of their language which I found very different from that spoken at Nootka or at the entrance of De Fuca Straits. As we were passing the Island we had examined yes- terday on our right we were joind by a Canoe in which was one of our one eyed acquaintance who had behavd so treacherous & was so active against us two days before, his conduct then entitled him to no favor from us & we took no further notice of him than that of neglecting him when we bestowd little presents on all the rest who were with us on which account he soon went away & the other Canoes likewise soon left us. We continued up this reach which is about three leagues in the above direction & about half a / league wide, passing about the middle of it a large opening going off to the Southward & reaching an Island at the further end of it about two in the afternoon where we landed to dine & on account of the heavy rain thunder & lightning which set in soon after we were obligd to pitch our Tents & remain on it all night. On the 24th we set out pretty early to continue our examination, here the arm trended more to the Northward N N W. & after pursuing it about 7 or 8 miles we found 1792. May 22nd. May 23rd. Nisqually River and Flats. Anderson Id. Named after A. C. Anderson, of the Hudson’s Bay Co., who gave assis- tance to the U.S. Exploring Expedition under Commo- dore Wilkes when in charge of Fort Steilacoom near by. Nisqually Reach. Dana Passage. Hartstene Id. May 24th. Case Inlet. 40 Menzies’ Journal. Puget Sound. 1792. May 24th. Pickering Passage. Hartstene Id. May 25th. Squaxin and Hope Ids. Totten Inlet. Cushman Point. May 26th. Eld Inlet. it terminate in shoal water & low marshy land near which we breakfasted in a small Creek & tried a haul of the Seine with very little success only one Salmon Trout—As we passed this morning a narrow arm going to the Southward we put back & pursued it with very rainy weather & soon found it inclining a little to the Eastward to meet the large opening we passed yesterday, making the land on the left of us a large Island, on the south side of which we encampd for the night & found the country exceeding pleasant, & the Soil the richest I have seen in this Country—The Woods abound with luxuriant Ferns that grow over head. Next morning we again pursued the arm keeping the Starboard Shore on board & passing on the other side some Islands that were divided by two or three branches leading off to the Eastward, we found the Arm which was now about a Mile wide winded round to the Southwestward & by noon we saw its termination though we could not get with the Boats within two Miles of it on account of the shallowness of the water which was one continued flat, dry at every retreat / of the Tide, & on which we found abun- dance of small Oysters similar to those in Port Quadra. We returnd back the Arm till we came to the last opening we had passed in the morning & then struck off to the East- ward about two Miles & encamped on the point of another arm leading to the Southward. We had on the morning of the 26th fine pleasant weather with which we pursued our examination in an arm leading to the Southward which we soon found divided into two branches leading nearly the same general direction for about 4 or 5 miles & then terminating among low land. Near the termination of the Westermost branch we saw two Indian Villages one on each side of it inhabited by about 70 or 80 Natives each. We visited one of them & they receivd us in the most friendly manner without shewing the least signs of distrustfull behaviour or any fear or alarm when we landed amongst them, for the women remaind in their huts & some of them had pretty good features, while the Children followd us begging for presents. They seemd to be of the same Tribe as those we saw before though very different in their friendly & peaceable dispositions, Their Huts were small wretched Sheds coverd with Mats made of Bullrushes & their Dresses were chiefly formd of the Skins Menzies’ Journal. of the wild animals of the forest, that which was peculiar to the Women was a dressd Deer’s Skin wrapped round their waist & covering down to their knees or rather below them, & the men too generally wore some little covering before them to hide those parts / which modesty & almost the universal voice of nature require. We made but a short stay among these people & on leaving them distributed some Beads & little ornamental Trinkets chiefly of Brass & Copper among the Women & Children of which they were very fond. On our return back to the Northward we kept the Continental shore a board & by two in the afternoon we came on our old ground by the large opening we had passed on the 23% so that we had now entirely finishd this complicated Sound which afterwards obtaind the name of Puget’s Sound, & after dining on the East point of the opening a favorable breeze sprung up from the Southward which we made use of to return to the Ship by the nearest route we could take. In the dusk of the evening as we were passing the Island on which we dind on the 224 near the Eastern shore of the Main Arm we saw a fire kindled upon it which we could not suppose then to be any ones else but the Natives, till we afterwards understood that it was Capt Vancouver & his party putting up for the evening, they likewise observd our Boats & Sails but as we were at some distance they took us for Canoes & so they went on surveying & examin- ing the very ground that we had gone over. When we came into the Main Arm finding the breeze freshening & likely to remain steady in our favor we con- tinued on under Sail all night & arrivd at the ship about 2 o’clock the / next morning, but as they had removd her out of the place we had left her in towards the Point where the village was on we were obligd to fire off some Swivels which they answerd from the Ship & thereby discoverd to us her situation. We now found that the Chatham had joind two days before us, after examining the North West side of the gulph which they found to consist of a vast number of Islands with wide & extensive openings leading to the Northward & North westward. Puget Sound. 41 1792. May 26th. Budd Inlet and the site of Olympia, though not described, were included in this day’s survey, as shown by Vancouver's chart. Nisqually Reach. Ketron Id. Restoration Point. May 27th. San Juan Archipelago. 42 Menzies’ Journal. 1792. May 27th. East of Vashon Id. May 28th. Restoration Pt. One or more species of Hookera (Brodica of Smith). See Appendix. Shoots of Rubus spectabilis, a common sub-acid relish of Indians of N.W. Coast. Puget Sound. We also learnd that Capt Vancouver & Mr Johnstone set off yesterday morning with two Boats to examine the arm leading to the South Eastward which we have already supposed to join with the one we were in. While we were absent the Natives one day brought a deer along side of the ship which they had ensnard by means of a large net on the adjacent Island & disposed of it for about a foot square of sheet copper. This being a day of recreation it inducd a party of Officers with a number of Men from both Vessels to land on the Island to try their luck & enjoy the sport of the Chace & they were not wholly disappointed for they started two or three Deer but could not kill any of them, & as the party had spread out through the woods in different directions they ran no little danger of shooting one another among the Bushes. That as little time as possible might be lost of the fine weather we now enjoyd in our investigation Lieutenant Broughton saild on the / forenoon of the 28th with the Chatham taking with him Mr Whidbey with a Boat & Boats Crew from the Discovery, & left word for Capt Vancouver that he would follow back the opposite shore of this arm (which was presumd to be the Continent) & enter the first opening leading to the Northward which he would pursue till he met with a division of it & then he would bring to with the Vessel & send two Boats off to examine its branches. I landed on the Point near the Ship where I found a few families of Indians live in very Mean Huts or Sheds formd of slender Rafters & coverd with Mats. Several of the women were digging on the Point which excited my curiosity to know what they were digging for & found it to be a little bulbous root of a liliaceous plant which on searching about for the flower of it I discoverd to be a new Genus of the Triandria monogina. This root with the young shoots of Rasberries & a species of Barnacle which they pickd off the Rocks along shore formd at this time the chief part of their wretched subsistance. Some of the women were employd in making Mats of the Bullrushes while the Men were lolling about in sluggish idleness.— There were about 70 Inhabitants on this point but a number of them removd with all their furniture since the Ship lay here. One day a Chief with some others visited the Ship Menzies’ Journal. Restoration Posnt. 43 from the Eastern Shore of the Arm to whom Capt Van- 1792. couver made some presents of Blue Cloth Copper Iron &c.|° ~~" but as soon as they got / into their Canoes they offerd every thing they got for sale to our people but the Copper, which shewd they put most value on that Metal—They were of the same Tribe & spoke the same language as those we saw in Puget’s Sound. In the edge of the wood I saw a good deal of Ash &] Ash (Frazinus Canadian Poplar. penine it) On the 29th Capt Vancouver & Mr Johnstone returnd | (actronneeay. from their Cruize when we learnd it was their fire we saw | May 29th. on the small Island in our return to the Ship on the evening of the 26th as already related. We further learnd that they pursued the Arm they went to examine in a South East direction for about four leagues when they found it enter that extensive Bay running up almost to the bottom of | commencement Mount Rainier which we have already described—then | fair or Steerd on a South westerly direction for about three leagues |7*°°™* till they came into our Arm leading to the South ward, & being doubtfull of its being the same that we went up they pursued it & went over nearly the same ground that we did, with only this difference that they were more tenacious of keeping the Larboard Shore on board & we the Starboard so that they did not examine the small arm leading to the westward. In one place in the South East Arm they saw two or three small Huts from which about ten Natives accom- panied them a little way in four Canoes offering them nothing else for sale but Bows & Arrows, which we con- ceive was a sure sign of their peaceable intentions. (f. 134° blank.) The Morning of the thirtieth of May was calm & clear | May 30th. till eight, when a light breeze sprung up from the South- ward with which we weighd & made Sail to the Northward back the arm to join the Chatham. At noon our Latitude was 47° 42’ north within three or four miles of the arm leading off to the Northward which we soon after enterd, but having calms & baffling winds alternately we were obligd to ply up the arm, & about the dusk of the evening had sight of the Chatham an (sic) Anchor close to a point of the Starboard Shore, but the ebb tide setting strongly against 44 Menzies Journal. Off Everett, Wash. 1792. May 30th. May 81st. Elliot Point Everett Bay. Gedney Id. June ist. Port Susan. us prevented our getting up with her till midnight, when we came to an Anchor close to her, & were informd that she reachd this place the evening of the day she parted with us, and next morning Mr Broughton dispatchd Mr Whidbey with two Boats to examine the openings that lay to the Northward. The forenoon of the thirty-first I had a stroll on shore on the point under which we lay & which at noon was ascer- taind to be in Latitude 47° 58’ north & Longitude 237° 37’ East which is about 34 leagues inland from the entrance of the Straits & as the most easterly situation the vessels anchord in—Mr Broughton namd the point from the vast abundance of wild roses that grew upon it Rose Point—A large Bay which went off to the Northward was the most easterly situation which our Boats explord in this Country, it terminates in / Latitude 48° North & 238° 2’ East Longitude. The land every where round us was still of a very moderate height & coverd with a thick forest of different kinds of Pine trees. In a marshy situation behind the Beach I found some Aquatic plants I had not before met with. In the afternoon we both weighd to follow the Boats up the arm to the Northward but did not proceed far when we came to again near an inland (sic) in mid-channel for the night during which it raind very heavy. Some dogs had been left on shore on this Island whose yellings were heard several times in the night. In the morning of the first of June we weighd anchor & finding the Arm a little to the Northward of us divide into two branches, we stood up the Eastermost which soon in the afternoon we found to terminate in a large Bay with very shallow water & muddy bottom, on which the Chatham who was about two miles ahead of us got aground owing to the inattention or unskilfulness of the leadsman, for on sounding afterwards they found they had run over a flat of near half a mile so very level that there was not more than a foot depth of water difference, yet the leadsman passed over this space without perceiving it, till they struck, which was upon an ebb tide, & it afterwards fell about five feet—they carried out a small Anchor three hawsers length from the Vessel & after heaving tight waited the return of the flood tide which about 11 floated them without having Menzies Journal. receivd any injury, when they hauld out and brought to in deeper water. Next morning we had rain & foggy weather which continued till about noon. In the forenoon we both weighd & with a light northerly air returnd down the arm till we came a little below the point of division & then anchord near the eastern shore abreast of a small Bay formd between two steep sandy bluffs into which we found some small streams of fresh water empty themselves which was rather a scarce article hitherto / in our different explorings——We also saw some of the long Poles already mentioned erected upon the Beach. In the evening the two Boats returnd after having carried their examination to the termination of the west- ern branch which was namd Port Gardner & which like the rest they found to end with Shoal water surrounded by low land—In this arm they saw two Villages pretty- numerously inhabited with Natives, they supposd there might be upwards of 200 in each, & they behavd very peaceably. They found Oak Timber more abundant in this arm than any we had yet explored & the country to the westward of it they describe as a fine rich Country abounding with luxuriant lawns, cropt with the finest verdure & extensive prospects teeming with the softer beauties of nature as we have already mentioned in our view of it from Port Townsend. We remaind here the two following days with fine pleasant weather. The latter being the King’s Birth Day, Capt Vancouver landed about noon with some of the Officers on the South point of the small Bay where he took posession of the Country with the usual forms in his Majesty’s name & namd it New Georgia & on hoisting the English Colours on the spot each Vessel proclaimd it aloud with a Royal Salute in honor of the Day. We both weighd anchor early on the morning of the 5th & with a moderate breeze from the Northward made Sail back again out of the Arm after having explored its different branches. We were joind from the Western branch which the Boats last examined by several Canoes who accompanied us to near the entrance of the Arm, where a fresher breeze from the North West carried us from them & they remaind with their Canoes for some 5 Off Tutalip, Wash. 45 1792. June Ist. June 2nd. Tulalip. Anchorage shown on Vancouver’s chart. Saratoga Passage. Gardner’s name still in use for large inlet farther north. June 3rd. June 4th. South point of Tulalip Bay. June 5th. 46 Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty, Inlet. 1792. June 5th. Foulweather Bluff. June 6th. South of Marrowstone Point. Smith’s Id. Oyster-catchers (Hematopus Bachmanii). On Cypress Id. Rhinoceros Auklet (Cerorhinca monocerata). time motionless gazing upon us with the utmost astonish- ment, & as we were obliged to ply soon after against the breeze back Admiralty Inlet, our whole mechanical manceu- vres in working the Vessels with so much apparent ease seemd greatly to increase their admiration, by which we were pretty certain that we were the first Vessels they ever saw traversing their / winding Channels. In the dusk of the Evening we passed the bluff point at the division of the first long arm & about midnight came to an Anchor a few Miles beyond it on the Western shore, but the Chatham being swept by a strong eddy into Oak Cove was obligd to come to in the entrance of it much sooner. Next morning we had westerly wind, but being favord with a strong ebb tide we both weighd & plyd against a pretty fresh breeze till towards noon when it fell nearly calm & having got out of Admiralty Inlet we both came to an Anchor on the outside near the North point of its entrance. As Capt Vancouver & M* Broughton were at this time going off in a Boat to observe for the Latitude & take bearing on a small Island about 4 or 5 miles to the Northward of us I accompanied them to examine it, at the same time for plants, but I found nothing different from what I had before met with in the Arms—About the Rocks were a number of black Sea pies of which we shot several & found them good eating—Most part of the Island was faced with a sandy cliff & coverd with Pines densely copsed with Underwood. M® Whidbey having receivd orders before we left the Vessel to equip two Boats with the necessary arms & pro- visions & to proceed to the Northward along the Eastern shore of this gulph examining the different Inlets he might fall in with till he came to a place on the North side where the Chatham had anchored which Mr Broughton had named Strawberry Bay, & which was pointed out as the place of rendezvous. On our return from the small Islands we found Mr Whidbey had gone off with the two Boats to execute these orders & that the Vessels had been visited by a few Natives who had nothing to dispose of but a few Water Fowls particularly a blackish colourd species of Auk with a hornlike excrescence rising from the ridge Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 47 of its Bill, & as it appeard to be a new species I named it } 1792. June 6th. Alca Rhinoceros & describd it. (Vide fig :) / We cannot quit Admiralty Inlet without observing that its beautiful Canals & wandering navigable branches traverse through a low flat Country upwards of 20 leagues to the Southward of its entrance & 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward & to the North East, thus diffusing utility & ornament to a rich Country by affording a commodious & ready communication through every part of it, to the termination of the most distant branches. Its short dis- tance from the Ocean which is not above 26 leagues, & easy access by the streights of Juan de Fuca is likewise much in its favour should its fertile banks be hereafter settled by any civilized nation. Its shores are for the most part sandy intermixed with pebbles & a variety of small silicious stones abounding with Iron Ore in various forms, for we hardly met with a Rock or Stone that was not evidently less or more impregnated with this usefull Metal which the benev- olent hand of Nature has so liberaly dispersed throughout almost every part of the world but perhaps no where so apparently abundant as along the Shores of this great Inlet. At the angular windings of these Canals we generely found low flat points evidently formed by the deposits of the Tides & Currents embanking them round by a high beach, behind which were frequently seen ponds of Salt Water that at first no less astonishd our curiosity con- cerning their formation than baulked our hopes when we approachd them either to quench our thirst or fill our Water Cags. Many of these ponds were at the distance of some hundred yards from the Sea Side & appeard to us to have no other means of communication or supply than that of oozing through the beach & loose gravely soil which com- posed the Point. The general appearance of the Country from this station was as follows. To the South West of us a high ridge of Mountains ran from the outer point of de Fuca’s entrance in a South East direction,—gradualy increasing in height to form the rugged elevated peaks of Mount Olympus in Latitude 47° 48’ N / & Longitude 236° 30’ East & afterwards diminishing suddenly & ending a little beyond the termination of the first long arm we examined. 48 1792. June 6th. Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. To the South East of us down Admiralty Inlet was seen through a beautiful avenue formed by the Banks of the Inlet Mount Rainier at the distance of 26 Leagues, which did not diminish but rather apparently augmented its great elevation & huge bulky appearance; from it a compleat ridge of Mountains with rugged & picked summits covered here & there with patches of Snow & forming a solid & impassable barrier on the East Side of. New Georgia, runing in a due North direction to join Mount Baker about 15 leagues to the North Eastward of us & from thence pro- ceeded in high broken Mountains to the North Westward. Between us & the above Ridge & to the Southward of us between the two Mountains already mentioned a fine level Country intervened chiefly covard with pine forests abounding here & there with clear spots of considerable extent & intersected with the various winding branches of Admiralty Inlet as already mentioned. These clear spots or lawns are clothed with a rich carpet of Verdure & adornd with clumps of Trees & a surrounding verge of scatterd Pines which with their advantageous situation on the Banks of these inland Arms of the Sea give them a beauty of prospect equal to the most admired Parks in England. A Traveller wandering over these unfrequented Plains is regaled with a salubrious & vivifying air impregnated with the balsamic fragrance of the surrounding Pinery, while his mind is eagerly occupied every moment on new objects & his senses rivetted on the enchanting variety of the surrounding scenery where the softer beauties of Land- scape are harmoniously blended in majestic grandeur with the wild & romantic to form an interesting / & picturesque prospect on every side. The Climate appeard to us exceeding favorable in so high a Latitude, a gentle westerly breeze generaly set in the forenoon which died away in the Evening & the Nights were mostly calm & serene, nor do we believe that those destruc- tive Gales which drive their furious course along the exterior edge of the Coast ever visit these interior regions but with the mildest force, as we saw no traces of their devastation that would lead us to think otherwise. The Soil tho in general light & gravely would I am confident yield most of the European fruits & grains in perfection, so that it offers a desirable situation for a new Settlement to carry on Hus- Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 49 bandry in its various branches, if the scarcity of fresh water 1792. | which we frequently experiencd in most of our excursions | ; through it, might not be severely felt in dry seasons, as many of the Rillets which supplied our wants, seemd to depend on Rain or the Melted Snow from the Neighbour- ing Mountains, which of consequence might then be dried up & cause an insurmountable difficulty in procuring that useful element so necessary to the existence of the animated creation. The Woods here were chiefly composed of the Silver | see Appendix. Fir—White Spruce—Norway Spruce & Hemlock Spruce together with the American Abor Vitae & Common Yew: & besides these we saw a variety of hard wood scattered along the Banks of the Arms, such as Oak—the Sycamore or great Maple—Sugar Maple—Mountain Maple & Pen- sylvanian Maple—the Tacamahac & Canadian Poplars—the American Ash—common Hazel—American Alder—Com- mon Willow & the Oriental Arbute, but none of their hard wood Trees were in great abundance or acquired sufficient size to be of any great utility, except the Oak in some par- ticular places, as at Port Gardner & Oak Cove. / We also met here pretty frequent in the Wood with that beautiful Native of the Levant the purple Rododendron, together with the great flowered Dog wood, Common Dog-wood & Cana- dian Dog-wood—the Caroline Rose & Dog Rose, but most part of the Shrubs & Underwood were new & undescribed, several of them I named, as Arbutus glauca, Vaccinium lucidum Vaccinium lucidum, Vaccinium tetragonum, Loni- cera Nootkagensis, Gaultheria fruticosa, Spiraca serrulata, Rubus Nootkagensis. Others from particular circumstances were doubtful & could not be ascertained till they are here- after compared with more extensive description &c. on my return to England. The wild fruits were Goosberries, Currants, two kinds of Rasberries, two kinds of Whattleberries, small fruited Crabs & a new species of Barberry. The Inhabitants of this extensive Country did not appear to us on making every allowance of computation from the different Villages & strolling parties that were met with to exceed one thousand in all, a number indeed too small for such a fine territory; but when we reflect that the hunting state is by no means a favorable state for 50 = Menzies’ Journal. Admiralty Inlet. 1792. June 6th. June 7th. June 8th. Cypress Id. Oreas and smaller islands of the San Juan group. population, & that in this Country neighbouring tribes are generaly at War with each other, which from their savage disposition & inexorable cruelties makes great havock amongst the weakest Tribes, our surprize at the fewness of Inhabitants will in some measure cease. But there is another cause which may have powerfuly co-operated to occasion this depopulation & that in the advantages & novelty which a traffic with civilized Nations has held out of late years by trading vessels along the Sea Coast, which has no doubt been a sufficient allurement to entice consider- able emigrations from the interior Country, & this idea is by no means inconsistent with their roving dispositions & ways of life, for they seem to have no permanent or fixd habitations, but wander about from place to place just as the whim or necessity of the moment impells them, or as it happens to suit their conveniency for procuring subsistance either by fishing or hunting. / Most part of the 7th of June was calm till 4 in the afternoon when a light breeze set in from the Westward with which we both weighd & stood to the Northward near the Eastern side of the Gulph & having gone about 5 or 6 leagues we came to an Anchor again in the evening near some Islands & broken land on the North side. The forenoon of the 8th was mostly calm with a strong Tide running to the Southward, which detaind us till it changd in our favor about 3 in the afternoon, when both vessels weighd & began plying to the Northward for an opening in that direction, but it soon after fell calm, & the Discovery with the assistance of her Boats was able to get into Strawberry Bay on the East side of the opening near the entrance where she came to an Anchor at 6 in the evening, while the Chatham was impelled by a strong flood Tide into an opening a little more to the Eastward, in which situation as neither helm nor canvass had any power over her, all were alarmd for her safety & anxious to hear of her fate. Mr Broughton himself was not at this time on board he went off in the forenoon in a Boat to finish his Survey of the Islands that were to the Westward of us, on the North side of the Gulph, & as the rugged appearance of these seemd to offer a new field for my researches I accompanied him by a friendly invitation. Menzies’ Journal. Cypress Island. 51 On landing we could not help noticing the great dif- | 1792. ference between these Islands & that fine Country we had so lately examined, tho not removd from it above 2 or 3 leagues. Here the land rose rugged & hilly to a moderate height & was composd of massy solid Rocks coverd with a thin layer of blackish mould which afforded nourishment to a straddling forest of small stinted pines. The Shores were almost every where steep rugged & cliffy which made Landing difficult & the woods were in many places equally difficult of access from the rocky cliffs & chasms / with which they abounded, but I was not at all displeasd at the change & general ruggedness of the surface of the Country as it producd a pleasing variety in the objects of my pursuit & added Considerably to my Catalogue of Plants. I here found another species of that new genus I discoverd at Village Point in Admiralty Inlet, & a small well tasted wild onion which grew in little Tufts in the crevices of the Rocks with a species of Arenaria both new. I also met with the Lilium Canadense & the Lilium Cam- schatcense, the roots of the latter is the Sarana so much esteemd by the Kamtschadales as a favourite food. Vide Cook’s Voyage. We rowed through some small Channels among these Islands & on our return again in the cool of the evening which was serene & pleasant we saw several Deer browsing among the Cliffs in different places: they were no wise shy as they sufferd us to approach very near them & it happend unluckily that neither Mr. Broughton or myself had any thing with us but small shot for our pieces which could have no effect upon them, indeed the reason was we hardly expected to meet with any quadruped on these Islands so did not provide ourselves for it. As we were afterwards crossing the Channel to join the Vessels in Strawberry Bay we landed on a small flat Island where we shot a number of black sea pies & carried them on board with us together with the young of a large Crane we got upon another Island which I took to be the Ardea Canadensis. As it was late before we joind the Ship Mr. Broughton remaind on board the Discovery all Night. and Next day a Boat came to us from the Chatham when we were informd that she was at an Anchor in a critical situation at the entrance of an opening to the Eastward of June 8th, Allium. The Saranne Lily, Fritillaria camtschatcen- sis, is not so common here as F. lanceolata. Both eaten by natives. June 9th. 52 Menzies’ Journal. Cypress Island. 1792. June 9th. Deception Pass. June 10th. Common Trout (Salmo mykiss). June 11th. us where they lost their stream Anchor by the force & rapidity of the / Tide which ran at the rate of about 5 miles an hour & snappd the Cable as they were bringing up. As often as the Tide slackend they used their endeavours by every scheme they could think of to recover the lost Anchor but without success & the loss of it was more severely felt as it was the only one of the kind they had been supplied with. We were likewise informd that early in the Morning Mr. Whidbey had called along side of the Chatham after having explored the first opening he was directed to enter, which it seems he found to communicate by a narrow Chan- nel with what he had before conceived to be the termination of Port Gardner making the North East side of Admiralty Inlet a fine large Island which obtaind the name of Whid- bey’s Island. After a short stay on board the Chatham, the two Boats set off again to continue their examination of the Continental shore to the North East ward. The Brewers landed from the Discovery with their Utensils & began to make Beer from the fresh branches of the Spruce, & another party began watering from a small run at the bottom of the Bay. In the forenoon of the 1oth the Chatham came into the Bay & Anchord on the inside of us & in the after- noon the two Boats returnd from the North ward having made the Land to the Eastward of us which was pretty high & hilly a group of Islands coverd with Pine Forests to their very summits & surrounded with rocky shores & rocky Channels. The bottom of this Bay was a stoney beach on which the Seine was repeatedly hauled without success & behind it was a small Pond in which was found a particular variety of Trout I had not seen before with a vermilion colourd spot near the lower angle of the Gills but differing in no other respect from the common fresh water Trout. The Bay was shelterd on the West side by an Island but the Anchorage was much exposed to the South- erly Wind. At day light on the 11th we both weighd & made Sail to the Northward through the Inlet leaving / Strawberry Bay with a light breeze from the Southward & serene pleasant Weather. About & we passed an opening leading to the Eastward & enterd a wide & spacious opening of an Menzies’ Journal. Gulf of Georgia. 53 unbounded horizon to the North West & as we advanced | 1792. on we could perceive that the.South West shore was com- posed of a broken group of Islands intersected by numerous inlets branching in every direction while the opposite shore on our right appeard streight & formed by a tract of low land backd at some distance by a high broken ridge of snowy mountains stretching to the North west ward from Mount Baker which at Noon bore N78° Et when our Lati- tude was 48° 50’ North about 2 miles off the Eastern shore ; at this place the opening was about 3 leagues wide. In the afternoon we continued our course along the Starboard shore with a very light breeze & seemingly a Tide against us so that our progress was very slow & in the evening stood in for a large Bay where we came to an Anchor in 5 fathom over a soft bottom about half a mile from the Shore. As this Bay was eligibly situated for the Vessels to stop at, Captain Vancouver & some of the Officers went on shore to look for a commodious place for erecting the Observatory on, & carrying on the other duties while the Boats might be absent. I accompanied this party who landed on the South side of the Bay where we saw the scite of a very large Vil- lage now overgrown with a thick crop of Nettles & bushes, we walkd along the Beach to a low point between us & the bottom of the Bay where we found a delightful clear & level spot cropt with Grass & wild flowers & divided from the forest by a winding stream of fresh water that emptied itself into the bottom of the Bay & added not only to the beauty but to the conveniency of the situation for carrying on all our operations to the best advantage, it was therefore determined to remove the Vessels abreast of this point the next morning & dispatch two boats to examine the Star board shore of the large arm / to the northwestward. Early on the Morning of the 12th Capt Vancouver set off in the Pinnace accompanied by Lieut. Puget in the Launch to explore the Shore & openings on the North side of the great North West Arm. These Boats were well armed & equipped with every necessary for 10 days. June 11th. Birch Bay. Nettle (Urtica Lyallii). Much used formerly by Indians for making twine and nets. June 12th. The Marquee Tents & Observatory were pitchd on|’ the spot allotted for them on the preceeding evening—the Astronomical Instruments & Time-keepers were landed & the necessary observations for ascertaining the rates of the 54 Menzies’ Journal. 1792. June 12th. Aspen Poplar (Populus tremuloides or Vancouver- ensis). Melanthium, probably Zygadenus VENENOSUS (Poison Camas). June 13th. Birch Bay. latter were diligently made & continued under the direction of Mr. Broughton. The Blacksmiths Brewers & Carpenters were also on shore employed on their different occupations as the weather continued serene mild & pleasant & exceeding favorable for prosecuting every pursuit both on board & on shore. I landed at the place where the Tents were erected & walked from thence round the bottom of the Bay to examine the natural productions of the Country & found that besides the Pines already enumerated the Woods here abounded with the white & trembling Poplars together with black Birch. In consequence of my discovery of the latter place, the place afterwards obtaind the name of Birch Bay. I also found some other Plants unknown to me, two of which had bulbous roots & grew plentifully near the Tents, one of them was a new species of Alliwm from six to ten inches high & bore a beautiful number of pink colourd flowers, the other had a thick set spike of pale green colourd flowers & appeard to be a new species of Melanthium of which I made a rough drawing & collected roots of both to put in the plant frame as neither of them were at this time in Seed. In one place in the verge of the Wood I saw an old Canoe suspended five or six feet from the ground between two Trees & containing some / decayed human bones wrapped up in Mats & carefully coverd over with Boards; as something of the same kind was seen in three or four instances to the South ward of this, it would appear that this is the general mode of entombing their dead in this Country, but what gave rise to so singular a custom I am at a loss to determine, unless it is to place them out of the reach of Bears Wolves & other Animals & prevent them from digging up or offering any violence to recent bodies after interment. On the following day Mr. Whidbey sat out about 2 in the afternoon with two Boats one from us & another from the Chatham to explore the opening which we had passed on the morning of the 11th leading to the Eastward & which was supposd not to reach any great distance from the appearance of the land behind it which formd a solid ridge of high snowy Mountains. These Boats had not gone far on their intended expedition when they observd two Vessels coming from the Southward & steering towards the Bay, Menzies’ Journal. the sight of these in this remote corner so unexpectedly inducd them to return in the dusk of the evening to acquaint us with it, & as it was expected that they would Anchor near us in the course of the night, the two Boats were detaind till we should obtain some further information about them, but the night being very dark we saw nothing of them & early next morning the Boats were again dis- patchd to pursue their intended examination, while Mr. Broughton who wishd to know something more of the strange Vessel went out with the Chatham in search of them, having his reducd Crew augmented by an Officer & ten Men from the Discovery & Mr. Johnstone was left behind to carry on the Astronomical Observations on Shore. Soon after they got out of the Bay they saw the two Vessels laying at Anchor under the Land in a Bay a little to the North East of us & as they soon after got under way on seeing the Chatham she soon joind them & found them to be Spanish Vessels belonging to his Catholic Majesty, the one a small Brig / between 40 & 50 Tons named Sutil & commanded by Don Dionisio Alcala Galeano Captain of a Frigate in the Spanish Navy, the other was a Schooner named Mexicana & commanded by Don Cayetano Valdes likewise Captain of a Frigate. They both saild from Acapulca on the 8th of March & arrivd at Nootka the 11th of April where they had remaind until the 5th of this Month when they saild for the Streights of De Fuca which they enterd on the day following to examine & survey it, in con- tinuation they said of what had been already done by other Vessels of his Catholic Majesties, for it was now we learnd that they had Vessels employd on this examination last Year that anchord in the same Harbour we did on our first arrival & had namd it Port Quadra, These had made a Chart of the Streights & this interior Navigation considerably to the North West of our present situation but did not put off much time to examine the narrow Inlets going off on either side, & the business of these two Vessels was to prosecute the examination of the great North West Arm & settle by their Time Keepers the different head lands of what had been already surveyd by their Pilots. They further said that they had at Nootka the Frigates Birch Bay. 55 1792. June 13th. In Ensenada de Lara, i.e., Lummi Bay. See Sutil y Mexicana, p. 48. The Spanish ships were passing from Bellingham Bay towards Birch Bay, where the lights of Vancouver’s ships were seen at midnight. June 14th. Semiahmoo Bay. Getrudie, Conception, Aranzara & the Brig Activa under | speuing the Command of Don Quadra Captain of a Man of War erratic here. As given in the 56 Menztes’ Journal. Birch Bay. 1792. June 14th. Voy. of Sutil y Mexicana, pp. 16, 17, these were Gertrudis, Aransazu, and Concepcion, frigates, and the brigantine Activa. Fraser River is not shown on either the Spanish nor the British charts made at this time, but no passage has been found by the present editor to warrant the statement that Vancouver ** denied its existence.’ June 15th. June 16th. Syringa or Mock Orange (Philadelphus Gordonianus). & Commander in Chief of their Navy in Mexico & Cali- fornia, who had come to Nootka early in the Spring to deliver up that Settlement to any person duly qualified from our Government to receive it agreeable to the Conventional Articles. In the place where the Chatham met these Vessels they said that they expected to find a large River but it provd only a large deep shallow Bay surrounded by low Land. On the Morning of the 15th we had a fresh breeze of wind from the Eastward which provd squally with / very heavy Rain & dark cloudy weather so that the Chatham was not able to get into the Bay again till about Noon when she anchord along side of us & the Spanish Vessels followd the object of their pursuit to the North west ward. The following day we had dry weather with a gentle breeze from the Southward which cooled the Air & made it pleasing & refreshing. I landed on the opposite side of the Bay, where I enjoyd much pleasure in Botanical researches, in wandering over a fine rich meadow cropt with grass reaching up to my middle, & now & then pene- trating the verge of the Forest as the prospect of easy access or the variety of plants seems to invite. Here I found in full bloom diffusing its sweetness that beautiful Shrub the Philadelphus Coronarius which I had not met with before in any other part of this Country, & having collected a number of other Plants in this little excursion I returnd in the afternoon round the bottom of the Bay to have them examind & arrangd, & in this route I saw another old Canoe laying in a thicket with some human bones in it far advanced in decay which seemd to have been wrapped up & coverd in the same manner as in the other Canoe already mentioned. We had not yet seen any of the Natives since we anchord here but in this days excursion I saw two or three recent fire places on the Beach which made it very evident that they had been lately in the Bay, & a fresh path which went back from them into the Country inducd me to follow it in expectation of reaching their village, but I found it lead only to a small well of fresh water dug in the middle of the Meadow with two or three large shells laying on the brink of it which were intended no doubt to serve as drinking Cups. Menzies’ Journal. Birch Bay. 57 In the evening Mr. Whidbey returnd with the two Boats from the South East ward having entirely finishd his examination in that quarter & brought the continental shore to our present situation & the / following day being Sunday a day of recreation to all hands, some of the Officers went to the South point of the Bay to determine the Lati- tude of it which by the mean of several Meridian Altitudes by different Sextants places it in 48° 52’ 30” North. At day break on the 18th of June I accompanied Mr. Johnstone who set out with two Boats in order to connect their former Survey in the Chatham among the Islands on the South West side of the Arm with our present situation. We rowed across & landed upon the Eastermost of a group of small Islands where we staid breakfast & where Mr. Johnstone took up his first bearings, after which we pro- ceeded to the South Westward landing here & there as occasion required it to continue the Survey. Nothing could be more conspicuous than the contrast that now appeard between the opposite sides of this great Arm, Here the Shores were rocky rugged & cliffy rising into hills of a moderate height composing a numerous group of Islands thinly coverd with stinted Pines, while the side we left in the Morning was fine sandly pebbly beaches backd by an extensive tract of fine flat level country coverd with a dense forest of Pinery & at some distance swelling out gradually into a high ridge of snowy Mountains stretching to the North West-Ward from Mount Baker & approaching the course of the great Arm with high & steep declivities. On a Point where we landed to dine we found growing some trees of Red Cedar; the Plants we met with in other respects did not differ much from the Plants I had collected a few days before on the Southermost of these Islands; a new species of the Genus Epilobium & another of the Genus Polygonum excepted. In the Cliffs of a small rocky Island I also found a species of Saxifraga / I had not before met with & towards evening we reachd the outermost extent of our intended excursion being a small Island which Mr. Johnstone had formerly settled & on which we encamped for the night. The weather was exceeding mild pleasant & favorable for our pursuits. Early next morning we quitted the Island on which we had encamped to return to the Vessels by a different rout, 1792. June 16th. June 17th. June 18th. Matia Id., probably. On Spanish maps this is Mata, meaning Shrub Id. ‘* Red Cedar.’’ Our Coast Juniper was formerly known onder this name, which was originally applied to Juniperus virginiana. See Appendix. June 19th. 58 Menzies’ Journal. Gulf of Georgia. 1792. June 19th. Bark of Thuja plicata (Giant Cedar). Blankets. See Appendix. Probably of wool of Mountain- goat (Oreamnos montanus). Vanc., Voy. I., 284. Whidbey reported seeing on east side of Whidbey’s Id. ‘* forty dogs in a drove, shorn close to the skin like sheep.’’ the weather was then hazy with gentle showers but it soon cleard up & the rest of the day was fair & pleasant with little or no wind. We had not gone far when the appearance of smoke issuing from a part of the wood on an Island before us inducd us to land at a place where we found four or five families of the Natives variously occupied in a few tempor- ary huts formd in the slightest & most careless manner by fastening together some rough sticks & throwing over them some pieces of Mats of Bark of Trees so partially as to form but a very indifferent shelter from the inclemency of the weather. Their food at this time was some dried fish & Clams; we also saw some fresh Halibut & purchasd two large pieces of it for an English half penny each. In one Hut some pieces of the flesh of a Porpuse were seen by some of the party who had taken it for Venison & nearly purchasd the whole of it with great eagerness at a very high price when the mistake was discoverd & all importunities suddenly ceased, tho the Natives were somewhat surprizd at this turn of conduct & could not comprehend the cause, yet they were by no means displeasd at finding themselves thus freed from the temptation of parting with their favourite food. The Women were employd in making Mats & large Baskets for holding their provisions stores & Luggage. In one place we saw them at work on a / kind of coarse Blanket made of double twisted woollen Yarn & curiously wove by their fingers with great patience & ingenuity into various figures thick Cloth that would baffle the powers of more civilizd Artists with all their implements to imitate, but from what Animal they procure the wool for making these Blankets I am at present uncertain; it is very fine & of a snowy whiteness, some conjecturd that it might be from the dogs of which the Natives kept a great number & no other use was observd to be made of them than merely as domes- ticated Animals. Very few of them were of a White colour & none that we saw were coverd with such fine wool, so that this conjecture tho plausibly held forth appeard without any foundation. On our landing we observd that all their dogs were muzzled, a precaution which we supposd the Natives had taken to prevent their giving us any dis- turbance or alarm at our approach to their Village, & indeed the whole tenor of their conduct shewd them to be an harm- Menzies’ Journal. Gulf of Georgia. 59 less & inoffensive tribe, so after distributing some few trinkets amongst their women & children we left them appar- ently well satisfied with our short visit, & afterward walkd for some distance along the Sea side where we passd a low extensive Morass well cropd with Bullrushes of which large patches had been pluckd by the Natives & were now laid neatly out upon the Beach to season them for making their Mats, & it is probable that the conveniency of procuring a good supply of this Plant so necessary to their domestic comforts inducd these few families to fix their temporary residence in the vicinity. After a walk of about two Miles we embarkd in our Boats to pursue the survey & in the afternoon having got out from amongst the Islands we crossed the great Arm to the Vessel where we arrivd about Sun set. / Next morning two Canoes came from the Northward & paid us a visit pretty early; Curiosity seemd to be their principal motive as they had nothing to dispose of neither fish nor furs. In the bottom of one of the Canoes I was told they had some Bodies coverd up which were supposd to be dead as they would not suffer them to be examind, but it is probable that it might be some of their women hiding themselves from strangers which is not uncommon amongst Indian Tribes. This & the following day we had fair pleasant weather with a light breeze of wind from the South ward. About noon on the 224 the Launch returnd to the Ship having accidently parted Company with the Pinnace on the evening of the 19th as they were coming back a long Arm that had carried them among the snowy Mountains to the Latitude of 50° 32’ North; they had explord several Arms leading to the North ward & traced the large opening a considerable way to the North West ward which they found to preserve that direction uninterrupted by the intervention of any land as far as the eye could discern from the most distant point of it they had explord. The Weather con- tinued remarkably serene & pleasant this & the following day. At noon on the 234 of June Capt Vancouver & Lt Puget returnd to the Ship in the Pinnace after being absent about eleven days & a half, & the latter gentleman was so 1792. June 19th. Probably on the north shore of Orcas Id., where such a swamp exists opposite East Sound. Tule (Scirpus occidentalis). June 20th. June 22nd. Under command of Mr. Manly. See Puget’s narrative, 23rd Ju. June 23rd. 60 Menzies’ Journal. Birch Bay. 1792. June 23rd. Semiahmoo and Boundary Bays. This village not mentioned by Vancouver. Strait of Georgia. Roberts and Sturgeon Banks off Fraser River. Burrard Inlet. obliging as to favor me with the following Extracts from his copious journal of this long Cruize. When they left the Ship on the Morning of the 12th they first explord a large shoal water Bay till they came to a conspicuous White Bluff / of a moderate height forming the western point of it & which afterwards obtained the Name of Cape Roberts. Here they landed to dine near a large deserted Village capable of containing at least 4 or 500 Inhabitants, tho it was now in perfect ruins—nothing but the skeletons of the houses remaind, these however were sufficient to shew their general form structure & posi-. tion. Each house appeard distinct & capacious of the form of an oblong square, & they were arrangd in three separate rows of considerable length; the Beams consisted of huge long pieces of Timber placed in Notches on the top of supporters 14 feet from the ground, but by what mechanical power the Natives had raisd these bulky beams to that height they could not conjecture. Three supporters stood at each end for the longitudinal beams, & an equal number were arranged on each side for the support of smaller cross beams in each house. After going round Cape Roberts they soon had a clear & uninterrupted view of the great North West Arm, the Northern shore of which took a Westerly direction for about 4 miles & then they met with an extensive shoal laying along shore the outer edge of which they pursued for about 15 miles in a North West direction & found it much indented with small Spits; its greatest extent from the Shore was about 3 leagues & the land behind was low & woody; in two places they saw the appearance of large Rivers or Inlets but could not approach them even in the Boats. Next day they proceeded up a narrow Arm which took an easterly direction for about ten miles & encampd for the night at the head of it—It was found inhabited by a number of friendly inoffensive Indians similar in their persons manners clothing & ornaments to those / of Ad- miralty Inlet—A supply of fresh Fish was procurd from them for small Trinkets & in their dealings they seemd to act with a confidential honesty—They were wonderfully alarmd at the report of a Musket, hence it was concluded Menzics’ Journal. Burrard Inlet. 61 that our people were the first Europeans with which they 1102. had had any immediate intercourse. After quitting this Inlet on the following day they soon | Howe Sound. after enterd another Arm leading to the Northward about a mile & a quarter wide & formed on both sides by ridges of stupendous snowy Mountains rising almost perpendicular from the Water’s edge. Near the entrance they passed some Rocky Islands on which they shot a few Sea Pies, & the water appearing very soon whitish & muddy inducd them to try frequently for Soundings but they could find no bottom with near a hundred fathoms of line. After run- ing up about 5 leagues they found it to terminate a little beyond the Latitude of 50° North in two shallow Bays chokd up with drift wood & skirted with a small track of low marshy land backd by high snowy Mountains. In returning back from the head of this Arm they were obligd to bring up pretty soon for the night on account of blowing & rainy weather. At this place they were visited by a few Indians who behavd very peaceably. As they were pursuing their examination back the Arm on the following day, they found some branches going off on the West side, making a number of Islands some of them | Bowen, pretty large & all coverd with Pines, so that they were two ayn Tae days & a hali before they got out again to the great North West Arm, which after pursuing its Northern shore for about 5 or 6 leagues further they still found it to preserve its spacious appearance, the Mountains on the right side of it to the South / West were high & coverd with Snow & an Island appeard at a little distance from them in mid Channel. About noon on the 17th they enterd another narrow Arm | Jervis miet. which carried them to the North-ward in a winding direc- tion about 40 miles between two ridges of high steep snowy mountains—they did not reach the head of it till the after- noon of the following day when they found it terminated in low marshy land about the Latitude of 50° 52’ North & Longitude 235° 18’ East, where they saw two Huts & some Indians curing Fish, some of which they easily procurd for small Trinkets—In this branch they also met with whitish water but no Soundings with a hundred fathoms of Line, nor no regular Tides towards the head of it but a constant drain down. 6 62 Menzies Journal. Jervis Inlet. 1792. June 28rd. Jervis Inlet, Vancouver’s boat. Now Malaspina Strait. At Spanish Bank, entrance to Burrard Inlet. In going up this Arm they here & there passed immense Cascades rushing from the Summits of high preci- pices & dashing headlong down Chasms against projecting Rocks & Cliffs with a furious wildness that beggard all description. Curiosity led them to approach one of the largest where it pourd its foaming pondrous stream over high rugged Cliffs & precipices into the fretted Sea with such stunning noise & rapidity of motion that they could not look up to its sourse without being affected with giddiness nor contemplate its romantic wildness without a mixture of awe & admiration. On the 19th as they were Rowing back against a fresh Southerly breeze Mr. Puget went into the Pinnace with Capt Vancouver leaving direction with Mr. Manley to following them with the Launch—They continud pursuing the Western / Shore & towards the dusk of the evening found a Channel branching off into which the Pinnace went, but those in the Launch on account of being at this time some way astern, not observing her motion, kept following back the Arm they had come up, by which the two Boats parted Company, & this was not discoverd by either party till late, & tho they fird Muskets & made large fires yet they were not able to effect a junction. Mr. Manley on the following day finding that they were very short of provision in the Launch & at a great distance from any resource, made the best of his way back to the Ship where they arrivd about noon on the 224 as already mentioned. The Pinnace at the same time pursued the Channel she went into, came out again by noon into the great North West Arm which still preservd its spacious appearance & as there was no likelihood of determining its extent soon they prepard to return to Birch Bay to bring the two Vessels further on to facilitate the examination & as they were returning along shore next morning they saw two Vessels laying at Anchor not far from the entrance of the first Arm they had explored. At first sight they took them to be the Discovery & Chatham moved so far to meet them, but a nearer view soon rectified their mistake, when they found them to be the two Spanish Vessels already mentioned. They went on board the Brig & were very politely detaind to breakfast with the Commander Don Dionisio Galeano. He told Capt Vancouver that they were Menzies’ Journal. Off Fraser River. 63 sent from Mexico by an order from the Court of Spain on }1792. . ° . . June 23rd. the same service with us, & proposd a junction of the Vessels & Crews / to facilitate an examination of these Streights in which he said their Pilots had been employd last year & traced the great North West Arm as far as the Island our party saw in Mid-Channel. Texada 1d. After the Pinnace left the Spanish Vessels they had a long & tedious pull along the outer edge of the Shoal formerly mentioned without any resting place till 11 at night which was about 14 hours on their Oars & four hours before breakfast made 18 hours of constant & hard rowing in this days run which was certainly very fatiguing & labori- ous exercise for the Men. They encampd for the night to the Westward of Cape Roberts & arrivd in Birch Bay as already related about noon on the day following. In this excursion the Boats went over in their different traverses up the winding arms & back again about a hundred & five leagues. The general appearance which the Country now assumd when compard to that which we had so lately examined formd a very striking contrast, here they were carried by narrow unfathomable Inlets among high ridgy mountains whose summits were invelopd in perpetual snow while their sides were clothd with a continued forest of Pinery & adornd with Cascades of the most wild & rapid torrents.—The Shore of the great North West Arm as far as they went is in general rocky with a border of lowland stretching along it producing Pines of immense dimen- tions—They found but few Inhabitants in the Northern branches but if they might judge from the deserted Villages they met in this excursion, the Country appeard to be formerly much more numerously inhabited than at present, tho they could form no conjecture or opinion on the cause of this apparent depopulation which had not an equal chance of proving fallacious / from their circumscribed knowledge of the manners & modes of living of the Natives. In the afternoon the Tents & Observatory were struck, the Artificers & Brewers with their different Implements were all collected on board & every thing got ready for sail- ing, from Birch Bay in Latitude 48° 35’—30” North & Longitude 237° 32’ East of Greenwich. Early in the Morning of the 24th we both weighd & }sune 24th. with a moderate breeze from the Eastward soon passed 64 Menzies’ Journal. Gulf of Georgia. 1792. June 24th. Canal del Rosario of Spanish maps; Gulf of Georgia of Vancouver. June 25th. Malaspina Strait. At the entrance to Desolation Sound. June 26th. Cape Roberts & stood up the great North West Arm. About two in the afternoon being joind by the Spanish Brig & Schooner & favord with a visit from the Commander they agreed to keep under Sail & stand on with us all night as the Channel was spacious & apparently free of danger— Our progress however was very slow, the evening breeze being very light & baffling with Showers of Rain & cloudy weather. Next morning a light breeze from the South East ward which freshend towards Noon enabled us to stand on to the North West ward with the two Spanish Vessels still in com- pany, & as the weather was favorable their Commanders dind on board the Discovery with Capt Vancouver & staid till pretty late in the evening. We proceeded in a North Westerly direction through a Channel about three leagues wide with high wooded mountains & rocky shores on both sides. By a Meridian altitude at noon we found ourselves exactly in the Latitude of Nootka 49° 36’ North & we were at the same time about three degrees of Longitude to the Eastward of it. Towards evening we saw several Whales / but few or no Birds & as we proceeded the Arm became a good deal narrower & our Navigation much more dangerous, being amongst a number of Islands which were in general barren & rocky but with deep water close to, so that it was difficult to find Anchorage & perilous to be under Sail all night in such a situation, at last however we came into water of a moderate depth & about eleven anchord close under one of the Islands in 30 fathoms—The two Spanish Vessels followd our example & came to at the same time close by us. The weather continud fair & pleasant during the night. On the morning of the 26th Don Alcala Galeano who had the sole direction of the Spanish Vessels came on board the Discovery to make overtures to Capt Vancouver of a juncture of the two parties to facilitate the examination of this intricate Country, saying, that his Boats & Crews were ready to aid in the execution of any plan of operation that might be devised for that purpose, & as his Vessels were of a small draught of Water they might be commodiously employd on difficult & distant excursions offering at the same time the chief direction of the parties to Capt Vancouver, which was declind—& Capt Galeano then pro- ‘SGLT ‘GopuoyT ‘SBI}V SAVANOdUKA WOI ‘aTUssud AIaAOIS| puL ‘punog uo;[oseq ‘TeUND saree Se PeW ad eo ? \ * . a, 7 3 © promi > aul. shamany +e", tee at ++ Menzies’ Journal. Off Desolation Sound. 65 1792. posd to send one of his Boats to examine a large opening 1792, | une th. leading to the Northward & on his returning on board, he dispatchd Don Valdes Commander of the Schooner in one of their Launches upon that service. At the same time as the Country appeard now much broken & divided by Inlets in various directions, Capt Vancouver / pland two boats expeditions & orderd the parties to get themselves ready. In the afternoon Mr. Johnstone set out with the Chatham’s Cutter & Launch to examine the openings which lay to the North West ward, whilst Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey went off in the Dis- covery’s Launch & Cutter to pursue those leading to the North Eastward, & as the rugged & wild appearance of the Country was likely to afford some variety to my pursuits I accompanied the latter party. We had gone but a short distance from the Vessels, when Capt Vancouver sent a Boat after us to say that he intended to remove the Vessels to the entrance of an opening about two Leagues to the Northwestward where we should find them on our return, & a fresh Northerly breeze of wind coming on soon after accompanied with thunder & rain, made the Vessels drive with their Anchors & causd them to heave up & hasten to the intended place where they came to in 30 fathoms rocky bottom & were better shelterd. The two Spanish Vessels accompanied them but anchord at the same time nearer the Shore in ten fathoms. The small Island where we left the Vessels at Anchor & from which we took our departure on this excursion is about 26 leagues in a N 64° E direction from Friendly Cove in Nootka Sound that is in Latitude 50° 6’ North & Longitude 235° 18’ East from Greenwich. After visiting some small barren Islands & part of the supposed Continental Shore to the South Eastward in order to connect it with our present survey, we directed our course along shore to the North Eastward & soon after enterd a small intricate arm scarcely half a mile wide / which took us South Easterly about two Leagues & having reachd its termination we turnd back & brought to for the Night in a small Cove about two miles from the head of it. On our way back next morning we found another small branch in this Arm leading to the North ward which we traced about 4 miles till it became so narrow & shallow Lewis Channel, ete. Desolation Sound. Te-ak-arne Arm, Redonda Id. Kinghorn Island. Malaspina Inlet. Okeover Arm. June 27th. Lancelot Arm. 66 Menzies’ Journal. Malaspina Inlet. 1792. June 27th. Thynne Id. - Desolation Arm. Mink Id. Deep Bay. Melville, Mary, and Morgan Ids. Prideaux Haven. waterd that it was not thought worth while to put off time in following it further, we therefore put back & breakfasted on a small Island about the middle of it wooded with Pines, after which we returnd out to the great Arm & proceeded along shore to the North Eastward passing a large Island in mid-channel, where the Arm is at least a league wide, We soon after rounded out a deep Bay, on the West side of which we saw a great number of fish stages erected from the ground in a slanting manner, for the purpose of expos- ing the fish fastend to them to the most advantageous aspect for drying. These Stages occupied a considerable space along shore & at a little distance appeard like the Skeleton of a considerable Village; they were made of thin Laths ingeniously fastend together with Withies of the Roots of Pine Trees & from the pains & labor bestowd on them it was natural to infer that Fish must be plenty here at some season of the Year, & that a considerable number of Natives ren- dezvous for the purpose of catching & drying them for winter subsistance, but as we observd no Huts or places of Shelter for their convenience, it is probable they make but a short stay. / After quitting this Bay we followed the same Shore which still trended North Eastward & soon after passed by a narrow Channel on the inside of a Cluster of steep rocky Islands wooded with Pines, but did not proceed above a league when at the farther end of these Islands we came to a small Cove in the bottom of which the picturesque ruins of a deserted Village placd on the summit of an elevated projecting Rock excited our curiosity & inducd us to land close to it to view its structure. This Rock was inaccessable on every side except a narrow pass from the Land by means of steps that admitted only one person to ascend at a time & which seemd to be well guarded in case of an attack, for right over it a large Maple Tree diffusd its spreading branches in such an advantageous manner as to afford an easy & ready access from the summit of the Rock to a conceald place amongst its branches, where a small party could watch unobservd & defend the Pass with great ease. We found the top of the Rock nearly level & wholly occupied with the skeletons of Houses—irregularly arrangd & very crouded; in some places the space was enlargd by strong scaffolds projecting over Menzies’ Journal. Homfray, Channel. 67 the Rock & supporting Houses apparently well securd— | 1792. ‘ F June 27th. These also acted as a defence by increasing the natural strength of the place & rendering it still more secure & inaccessable. From the fresh appearance of every thing about this Village & the intollerable stench it would seem as if it had been very lately occupied by the Natives. The narrow Lanes between the Houses were full of filth N nastiness & swarmd with myriads of Fleas which fixd them- selves on our Shoes Stockings & cloths in such incredible number that the whole party was obligd to quit the rock in great precipitation, leaving the remainder of these Assailants in full posession of their Garrison without the least desire of facing again such troublesome enemy. We no sooner got to the Water side than some immediately stripped them- selves quite naked & immersed their Cloth, others plungd themselves wholly into the Sea in expectation of drowning their adherents, but to little or no purpose, for after being submersd for some time they leapd about as frisky as ever; in short we towd some of the Cloths astern of the Boats, but nothing would clear them of this Vermin till in the even- ing we steepd them in boiling water. From what we saw & experienced the few minutes we were in this Village we have no doubt but these troublesome ' guests have obligd its late Inhabitants to quit it & remove to some fresh situation, & this will in some measure account | for the number of deserted villages we have observd in our different excursions through this Country. The Natives being so indolent & filthy in their manner of living, that Vermin & their own nastiness obliges them often to quit their situation & move about from one place to another. We pulled out a little from the Shore & lay on our Oars before the Village while Mr. Humphries took a sketch of it, & tho I can give but a very unequal idea of its romantic appearance, yet I will attempt to follow the expressive / strokes of his Pencil in a few words. The Rock itself is somewhat round of a moderate height & projects into the Cove; its face is here & there over- grown with Raspberries & other Bushes, while the Summit is occupied with the crouded remains of the Village consist- ing of posts spurs & planks crossing each other with the utmost confusion in all directions. At the landing place which is a small Beach close to the Rock are standing the 68 Menzies’ Journal. Homfray Channel. 1792. June 27th. Mt. Addenbroke of present charts, alt. 5,140 ft. Homfray Channel. June 28th. Forbes Bay. Brettell Point. Channel and Double Ids. Toba Inlet. Pryce Channel. Posts & Beams of a solitary House which from its size painted ornaments & picturesque shelterd situation seemd to have been the residence of the Chief or some family of distinction. The Shore on both sides is Rocky, crouded with large Stones & drift wood & here & there verged with Maple Trees whose waving branches & light colord foliage formd a beautiful contrast with the gigantic aspect & dark verdurous hue of a thick forest of Pinery which spread over a high prominent Mountain that swelled out immediately behind to form the back ground with a steep acclivity from the outer point of the Cove. This Village from the disasters we met with obtaind the name of Flea Village & is situated about three leagues to the North East ward of the situation of the Vessels & a high conspicuous Mountain to the Westward of it on the opposite side of the Arm was namd from its figure Anvil Mountain. We now found the Arm taking a turn round the bottom of this Mountain to the North West ward & was contracted to about a mile & a half wide with rocky shores & high steep mountains wooded with Pines on both sides; those to the Northward / had their summits checquerd with Snow; but night coming on we soon brought to & occupied ourselves in getting clear of the Fleas by soaking our cloths in boiling water. Early on the morning of the 28th we again set out & soon after passed a Bay with some low land round the bottom of it & a large stream of fresh water emptied itself into it which collected from the Mountains over it in rappid torrents. After this we found the Arm rounding gradually to the Westward & about Noon came to a naked point where a large branch turnd suddenly off to the Northward with two small Islands in its entrance wooded like the rest of the Country with Pines.——Soon after leaving this point to prose- cute our examination in the Northern branch, we met with Capt Valdes in the Spanish Launch on his way back from the head of it; he readily shewd us his Survey of it, & told us that it terminated in shallow water surrounded with low land about eleven miles off, & that he saw Mr. Johnstone with his Boats on the preceeding day in the Western open- ing we had just passed. As Mr. Puget who commanded our party had no particular orders how to act in case of meeting in this manner with Capt Valdes we took our leave Menzies’ Journal. Toba Inlet. 69 of him & continued our examination in the Northern branch } 1792. which was soon after found to take a turn East North East & went in that direction about nine Miles to its termination preserving its breadth all the way which was in general about a mile & a quarter wide. / On each side were high steep Mountains coverd towards their summits with Snow which was now dissolving & pro- ducing a number of wild torrents & beautiful Cascades. As we advancd the country became more dreary & barren, large Tracts were seen without the least soil or vegetation, expos- ing a naked surface of solid rock, of which the mass of Mountains appeard entirely composd—the Woods became scrubby & stunted & the Trees were but thinly scatterd except in Valleys & near the water side. It was observable however in these stinted situations, where Vegetation was making as it were a slow beginning, that hard woods such as Birch Maple Medlers Whortle berries &c were most pre- dominant & not Pines the general covering of the Country. In the dusk of the evening we passed a number of Fish stages erected in the way of Slanting from as like those already mentioned. We soon after brought to, but the dread of being near any old habitation & encountering another attack of the Fleas made us sleep in the Boats all night, as it was too dark to pick out a proper place for encampment on shore. Next morning we were pretty early in motion & soon reachd the head of the Arm which we rounded out in very shallow water, extending so far from the shore that we could not Land tho allurd by the prospect of a pleasant Valley with a considerable track of low marshy Meadows backd by a forest of Pines & high snowy Mountains from which a number of foaming torrents fell into the Valley & formd a considerable winding Stream that glided gently through it. / On our way back from the head of this Arm which is about 8 leagues Northwestward of the situation of the Vessels we found ourselves greatly assisted by a strong Drain or Current setting in our favor apparently occasiond by the great number of Torrents & Waterfalls which were observd rushing down the sides of the Mountains from the melted snow & these afforded such a considerable supply that the Water was perfectly fresh & of a whitish colour June 28th. Medlar or Service Berry (Amelanchier florida). June 29th. 70 Menzies’ Journal. Toba Inlet. 1792, June 29th. Pryce Channel. Ramsay Arm to north. June 30th. Lewis Channel. Near Teakerne Arm. for several Miles, & even after the Water became brakish the whitish colour continud for some distance, so that this appearance was probably occasiond by the admixture of Snow & Sea Water tho I am at a loss to account for it. A little after noon we got out of this branch & after dining on one of the small Islands at the entrance we pursud the Western opening which we had left a little before we met the Spanish Launch the preceding day, & did not proceed in our examination above two Leagues when we found it divide into several branches, some went to the Southward & South west & one took a Northerly direction, which consistent with our plan of examination we should have pursued had we not been informd by Capt Valdes that Mr. Johnstone was seen somewhere in this Arm, & as we might now be on the ground which he had explord it was thought advisable in this doubtfull situation to return to the Vessels for fresh orders by the Southern Arm which appeard wide & spacious, we therefore crossd over & encampd this evening in a very indifferent place at the entrance of it & after we brought to we fird some Swivels in expectation of being heard & answerd by Mr. Johnstone’s party or those on board the Vessels, but there was no return made from / either & we remaind quiet & unmolested all night. We set out again on the morning of the 30th on our return to the Vessels & had to encounter a strong breeze from the South East with heavy rain & dirty weather that greatly retarded our progress, obliging us to keep close in shore & follow its windings to make any head way against it, with this slow progress however we soon came to the entrance of a narrow Channel leading to the South East Ward which we followd as it was the direction we expected to find the Vessels in, but did not proceed above a league when we found them both at an Anchor near the further end of it together with the two Spanish Vessels & Capt Valdes arrivd on board on the evening of the day we met him. . During this expedition we met with none of the Natives. In one place in the Northern branch we saw a Canoe which appeard to have been recently hauld up among the Bushes & as we conjecturd the Owners might have fled to hide themselves in the Wood on our approach, we left some Menzies’ Journal. Lewis Channel. 71 little presents in the Canoe such as Beads Medals Looking }1792. ° ; June 30th. Glasses pieces of Iron & Copper &c to convince them on their return that we were amicably disposd, but on looking into it on the following day we found these Articles untouchd on which account it had not probably been visited. Tho these Channels are a considerable distance removd from the Ocean yet we found them frequented by Whales Seals & Porpusses, but we saw very few sea Otters, which shews that these Animals are not fond of penetrating far into the inland branches tho the Channels are deep & spacious abounding with insulated / Rocks & Caverns that form commodious recesses for such Animals. The Shores in general were steep rocky & indented forming in many places high perpendicular precipices with scarcely a sandy Cove to be met with. The sides of the Mountains which were high & broken with immense Rocks & precipices, were mostly coverd with tall Pines except their upper region which was checquerd with Snow & every where presented a dreary & gloomy aspect, especialy amongst the Continental Mountain where the Vegetable Creation became scanty & stinted & where lifeless tracks of huge lofty Rocks prevaild forming Mountains of immense elevation. On the afternoon of the following day the same Boats | July 1st. were again dispatchd provided with a weeks provision under the Command of the same Officers with orders to proceed to the South Eastward along the Continental Shore as far as they might find it necessary to confirm its connec- tion with our present situation, as the Vessels had passed it in a cursory manner on the evening of their arrival here & on their way back to obtain some knowledge of the relative position of the Islands scattered through this great Inlet & the trendings of the opposite shore as far as their time would allow to elucidate our further progress. Next forenoon Mr. Johnstone returnd to the Discovery | July 2na. with the two Boats under his Command & from his Report I am enabled to draw up the following short detail of their proceedings. On meeting the Spanish Launch the day after they set out as already noticd / they enterd the Northern Arm | Bute Inlet. where we left off exploring in the last excursion, as we had then surmisd, & tracd it but a short distance when they were joind by two Canoes from the Western shore of it, containing about a dozen or fourteen of the Natives. The 72 Menzies’ Journal. Bute Inlet. 1792. July 2nd. Waddington Harbour. Near Arran Rapids, to north of Stewart Id. Yuculta Rapids. only articles of traffic they had were Bows & Arrows which they readily barterd for small Trinkets. This indicating their peaceable disposition they were sufferd to follow the Boats till they stopped for the night & then they quietly went to the opposite shore where a large smoke was seen issuing from the woods. Early on the following morning these Natives again returnd to the Party with more Bows & Arrows to dispose of, which they no sooner had done than they again peaceably departed & our party continud tracing the Arm in a North- erly direction between two ridges of high mountains whose summits were coverd with snow which was now dissolving & producing several beautiful Cascades on both sides, but their progress was tardy & toilsome owing to the strength of the Current which was found pretty constant against them the whole day. They stopped for the night near the head of the Arm where the Water was of a very pale colour & nearly fresh from the vast supply of torrents & streams that emptied into it from the sides of the Mountains, & soon after they set out the next morning, they found it terminate in a shallow sandy flat, skirted by a low marshy plain & backd with high Mountains in about the Latitude of 50° 44’ North, which was about nine leagues from its entrance. As they were putting back off this flat they suddenly deepend their Water to 70 & 80 fathoms, which shews the great depth of these Arms even close to their ter- mination. / The same cause which retarded their progress on the proceeding day was now favorable in accelerating their return back the Arm, so that on the following morning they reachd the place where they were visited by the Natives, & where they had seen the smoke they now discoverd a pretty considerable village of upwards of twenty houses & about 30 Canoes laying before it; from which they concluded that its Inhabitants could not be far short of a hundred & hfty. In passing this Village they purchasd from the Natives a large supply of fresh Herrings for Nails, & immediately after enterd a narrow Channel leading to the Westward, through which the Water rushd in Whirlpools with such rapidity that it was found extremely difficult even to track the Boats along shore against it, & this could hardly be accomplishd had it not been for the friendly activity of the Natives who in the most voluntary manner afforded them Menzies’ Journal. Cardero Channel. 73 every assistance in their power, till both Boats were safely | }7)?) 4 through these narrows, & then returning peaceably home to their Village clearly shewd that they had no other passion to gratify on this occasion than that of doing a good office to strangers. Having got through this difficult pass, the Channel was | Caraero found to open out much wider, & the strength of the current atipe was greatly diminishd but the weather set in so thick & rainy that they were unable to carry on their Survey with any degree of precision. Under these unfavorable circum- stances Mr. Johnstone conceivd it of little utility to proceed further on new ground & therefore returnd back by the same Channels they had before explord, & had a continuation of the same thick weather with heavy rain which obligd them to take shelter pretty early in the / evening & detaind them at the same place the day following. On their way back it was their intention to examine the Arm which we had last explord, but their vicinity to the Vessels inducd them first to visit them to learn what had been done by the other boats. As the weather was favorable on the 34 of July Mr. Johnstone was again dispatchd in the afternoon with the same two Boats & a Week’s provision to pursue the exam- ination of the Channel leading to the Westward from where he had left off a little beyond the Narrows on account of bad weather as already mentioned in his preceeding cruize. During the absence of these Boats when the weather was any wise favorable I made frequent Botanical excur- sions in different directions into the Woods on both sides of the Channel as they were found here pretty thin & easily penetrated on account of being much less encumberd with Underwood than the Forests of New Georgia & those along the outer skirts of the Coast. In these excursions I saw some Wasp nests suspended | Polistes sp. to Trees of a curious & extraordinary structure. That from which the annexd Drawing was taken (Plate ) was sus- pended to the extremity of a branch of the Canadian Pine about 8 feet from the ground; its figure was globular, about 4 inches in diameter, & perforated underneath with a small hole of a size sufficient to admit one of the Wasps in or out at a time. The outer covering was composd of a paper like substance of a light ash colour & made up by several folds overlapping one another here & there like the Tiles of 74 Menzies’ Journal. Lewis Channel. 1792. July 2nd. Redondn Id. Nipple Summit, alt. 2,876 ft. Mr. Mudge was probably one of the party. Vancouver, I., 328, named Point Mudge ‘* after my first lieutenant, who had also discovered the inlet from the top of a mountain he had ascended in this neigh- bourhood.’’ Perhaps a more accurate estimate than that of the chart. a house to throw off the wet, but this substance being of a tender & spongy texture was further guarded by being built under the shelter of a large Maple leaf to ward off the Rain & heavy droppings from the branches. / This exterior covering was evidently made up of minute fibres of rotten & decayd wood, bleachd by long exposure to the weather, which had been collected & agglutinated together by some waxen matter into its present form & appearance by the in- defatigable labour of these wonderfull & curious Mechanics. On the inside of it was found a small cluster of Cells like Honeycombs, fastend round the Twigs to which the Nest was suspended for greater security & these Cells con- taind the young brood of this little but curious Hive. In order to vary my excursions & search the upper regions of the Woods for Botanical acquisitions I one day ascended a hill on the North Side of the Channel close to the Ship in company with some of the Gentlemen, & found my journey amply repaid by a number of new Plants never before discoverd. As we did not know the time it might take us to reach the summit, we took with us some men to carry provision & water & landed pretty early in order to have the fatiguing part of the Journey over before the heat of the day. I also carried with me a portable Barometer to ascertain the height we might reach from the sea side, & as the day continud clear & serene without any material change of weather taking place between the observations, they will I think give the height of this Hill tolerably accurate. The first station was at the Sea Side on our land- ing in the Morning where the Mercury in the Barometer in stood at 29. 85 & the second station was on the top of the Hill in about three hours & an half after where it stood at in Pts 27. 10 & where the temperature of the air by Farenheit’s Thermometer was at the same time 64°. The difference between these two observations of the Barometer shew that ine ts the / Column of Mercury sunk by our ascent 2. 75 which makes the perpendicular height of the Hill about 867 Yards above the level of the Sea, but it is a mere hilloc in com- parison to others immediately behind it, & particularly to the great range of continental mountains which terminated our view to the Northward. Menzies’ Journal. Redonda Island. 75 Though the day was favorable our view from the top of the Hill was very circumscribed on account of the higher mountains which every where surrounded us, those to the Southward & South West were more remote by the great Arm intervening which appeard underneath us like a large Lake checquerd over with a great number of Islands of dif- ferent size & figure, many of the smaller ones were naked & rocky, but the larger ones were in general wooded with Pines of a stinted appearance, this added to the broken rugged & gloomy prospect which the Country presented on both sides made this part of the great Arm be named Desolation Reach. In this journey the Genus Pyrola was enrichd with four new species which I met with no where else & on the top of the Hill I found two new species of Pentstemon, a new species of Ribes Andromeda coerulea, Pinus Strobus—Pinus inops. H.K. & a great variety of Cryptogamic Plants, besides many other undescribed Plants which I had before met with in other parts of the Country. Another day I went a small excursion with Mr. Broughton in his Boat. We penetrated by a small branch a short distance into the Island on the South Side of the Channel where we lay & near its termination, seeing a large stream of water rushing down out of the Woods we landed / close by it to take some refreshment, not in the least suspect- ing but that it was fresh water, till we tasted it, & to our great surprize found it to be saltish. This lead us to trace its source & found it came from a Lake in the Wood which was apparently filled at high water by the impetuous force with which the Tide rushes into these narrow Inlets, but the same impelling force not acting upon its return it con- tinued pouring out at a narrow gap a more gradual stream during the recess of the Tide which at this time had fallen from it about twelve feet perpendicular height. We here killed some large Grouse which on starting perchd in the Pine Trees, & we saw some Deer but did not get near enough to have a shoot at them; it is surprising how fond these Animals are of insulated situations to which probably they are driven by being chaced or harrassed by other animals such as Wolves, Foxes &c Near the bottom of a deep Cove which obtaind the name of Cascade Cove about a mile & a half to the North 1792. July 2nd. Now limited to the southern entrance only. Pinus strobus, the Eastern White Pine with five leaves in each fascicle, is replaced here by P. monticola. P. inops (two- leaved) is similarly replaced by P. comtorta, the Scrub Pine of the Coast. Cliff Id. and Squirrel Cove. Teakerne Arm on W. side of Redonda Id 76 Menzies’ Journal. Redonda Island. 1792. July 2nd. «* Shanus albus ”’ here is meant for the grass Schanus albus L., now known as Rynchospora alba. July 5th. Savary Id. East of the Ship there was a beautifull Waterfall which issued from a Lake close behind it & precipitated a wide foaming stream into the Sea over a shelving rocky precipice of about thirty yards high, its wild romantic appearance aided by its rugged situation & the gloomy forests which surrounded it, rendered it a place of resort for small parties to visit during our stay. On the Banks of this Lake I found the following Plants. Linnoea borealis, Myrica gale / Anthericum Calyculatum, Drosera rotund tfolia, Menyanthes trifoliata, Shanus albus, & in the Lake itself we found some Bivalve Shells which were quite new to me.—It appeard to be very deep & its sides were strewd with a great number of fallen Trees. About noon on the 5th of July Lt Puget & Mr. Whidbey returnd to the Ship with their Boats & Party & from the Report of the former Gentlemen I am enabled to give the following short account of their excursion. After their departure on the 1st of July they proceeded agreable to their orders along the Continental shore to the South East ward but were not able to go far on new ground when they stopped for the evening on one of the Islands & pitchd their Tents in a delightfull plain with a fine smooth beach before it for the Boats, that renderd the situation both desirable & pleasant & such as they of late seldom enjoyd. Next day they continued ranging along shore to the South Eastward with fair wind & pleasant weather till about noon when having obtaind a satisfactory view of the unbroken continuation of the Continental shore & the termination of the group of Islands which here occupied a space of about four leagues in a SSE & NNW direction, they returnd back among these Islands which are low & in general thickly coverd with streight Pines, they also produce the wild fruits of the Country such as Raspberries Goosberries Red Whortle berries &c together with abundance of wild Onions, & the sandy Beaches abounded with fine Clams easily pro- curd & well flavord—they also afford places of resort / to Gulls Shags & other Oceanic Birds besides a great number of Seals. Thus fertilized with Fruits & Game, renderd them a desirable situation for Inhabitants, accordingly they were visited from one of these Islands by a small party of Natives who made off to the Boats over a long flat with pieces of porpus or Seals flesh in their hands which they offerd to our Menzies’ Journal. Savary Island. ag people in the most open & friendly manner, & though these | 1792. presents were not accepted, yet their generosity & good ]’ aii intentions were rewarded by some little presents in return that highly pleasd them & establishd at once a mutual con- fidence on both sides. As their number was but small & they had no women with them some of the Gentlemen expressd their wish to be conducted to their habitations but after repeated solicitations they found them so unwilling to comply with their request, that rather than offend them they suppressed their curiosity & gave the business up, & after purchasing from them some Bows Arrows & other little articles of curiosity they parted with them on the best terms, as in these little dealings they appeard to conduct themselves with the strictest honesty & friendship. Two of them had been sent off to their Village for Fish but they were so dilatory that our party did not wait their return. Our party continued their examination of these Islands & the Southern Shore opposd by strong wind & disagreeable sea which renderd their progress tardy & difficult on this & the following day, when on the evening of the latter they came to the entrance of an opening leading to the North | Discovery West Ward & landed on its / Southern Shore to encamp heh for the Night. The opposite point which was a steep bluff | Cape Muage had a large Village upon it & was very numerously inhabited Villages | as they conjecturd by the number of Natives that visited them in their Canoes & crouded so fast that some apprehen- sions were entertaind they might be too troublesome about the Boats during the Night, & a Swivel was therefore fired off to intimidate them, which had the desird effect in sending them peaceably home to their habitations & our party enjoyd their rest in quietness. Next morning which was the 4th of July they enterd on the examination of this Channel which was more than a Mile wide & ran in the direction of North by West environd on both sides by Land of a moderate height coverd with Pines, but they proceeded little more than two Leagues when they were agreeably surprised on meeting with the Tide of flood coming from the Westward in such a rapid stream that they could hardly stem it with the Boats. This affording such a favorable prospect of finding a passage through to the North West Ward for the Vessels that they immediately returnd on board with the intelligence in order to have the Vessels 7 78 Menzies’ Journal. Discovery Passage. 1792, July 5th. July 12th. S. and W. of Stuart Id. Cardero Channel. Loughborough Inlet. removd thither which was not above five leagues in a direct line to the South West of our present situation, but some little time was put off in connecting & finishing their Survey thus far, so that they did not arrive on board the Discovery till the following day as already mentioned. Nothing material happend from this time till Mr. Johnstone’s return which we lookd for with some degree of anxiety as it was supposd that he would determine whether there / was a likelihood of any navigable passage for the Vessels to the North West Ward, or whether we should be obliged to return back to the Ocean the way we came by De Fuca’s entrance for notwithstanding that Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey met with the flood tide coming from the West Ward, yet as that circumstance might be occasiond or influencd by the broken & insulated appearance of the Country, the idea of a free passage to the North West Ward still remaind a conjectural point even with themselves. The Spaniards undertook no further excursions but waited the event of Mr. Johnstones return with equal anxiety. We continued visiting one another during our stay on the most cordial terms of friendship, which was mutually cultivated on both sides by frequently spending our convivial hours together in the most social manner. Early on the 12th of July Mr. Johnstone return’d with his two Boats & party & as this excursion was so very inter- esting to us, I shall state the following particulars from his copious report. After their departure on the 3% of July they that evening reachd the Channel where they formerly left off, but by another entrance a little to the South Ward of their former, where the Tides were in like manner subject to violent commotions & rapid whirlpools that made its navigation difficult if not altogether impracticable to Vessels of any considerable burthen & this difficulty was renderd more alarming by the depth of Water which was from 60 to 70 fathoms. From these Rapids they pursued the Arm which was about one mile wide in a westerly direction, but the / two following days were mostly spent in examining some branches that went off to the Northward, the last of which had carried them about 8 leagues between two high ridges of steep Mountains whose summits were coverd with Snow that waterd their sides with many torrents and beau- tiful cascades. In this Arm they stopped the second even- Menzies’ Journal. Loughborough Inlet. 79 ing & thought themselves secure from any disturbance by | 1792. pitching upon a small Island for their place of rest, but in Wii the middle of the night they were hastily roused from their repose by the flowing of the Tide, which had risen so much higher than they expected & rushd upon them so suddenly, that every person got completely drenchd before they could remove to the higher ground. This little disaster renderd them so uncomfortable for the remainder of the night that they could not enjoy their slumber but anxiously looked forward for day break to depart. In these Arms they only saw two Canoes with two or three Natives in each who on observing the Boats paddled hastily to the shore & fled to the Woods with the utmost precipitation. In passing one of these Canoes Mr. Johnstone rowed round near enough to throw some small Trinkets into it, to convince its owners on their return that they had no cause to be alarm’d. They again got into the main Channel on the 34 day & | Back into pursued it in a westerly direction, but did not proceed far | Ghasnet. when they had evident indications of the flood tide coming from the Westward which was a pretty certain sign of a communication with the Ocean to the Northward of Nootka, but to ascertain whether it was Navigable for the Vessels / stimulated them to push forward with greater eagerness without putting off any more time in examining the collateral branches that went off to the Northward, indeed these soon became so frequent that they appeard to be the intersections of a numerous group of Islands which as they approachd the Ocean occupied a considerable space on the North Side of their tract, & the Weather was frequently thick & unfavorable with heavy rain & a strong breeze of wind often against them yet they anxiously persevered in their pursuit with toilsome labour & gaind sight of the Sea on the roth of July seven days after their departure: but the preceeding day being thick & foggy with constant rain they were extremely apprehensive least after exploring so far they should not be able to obtain a satisfactory view of their situation, to ascertain their object with greater precision, & in this state of despair they passed the night uncomfortably in a small Island indifferently shelterd, till a change of wind at day break dispers’d the Fog & fortunately brought clear & fair weather, when they rowed to a small Island a little farther to the Westward where they had the pleasing pros- 8o Menzies’ Journal. Queen Charlotte Sound. 1792. July 12th. By Nodales Channel. Queen Charlotte Sd. had been visited and named six years earlier by Capt. Strange in the Experiment. Kwakiutl, the language spoken here, is different from Nootkan, but the two peoples frequently intermarried. pect of a clear & unbounded horizon in a North West direc- tion, which from the distance they ran they had no doubt of being the open Sea nearly about the Latitude of 51° North & upwards of one hundred miles in a direct line from the Vessels, but they could not put off time to wait till noon to ascertain their situation more accurate by their meridian altitude, as their stock of provision was nearly expended & a fresh breeze from the Westward was now favorable / for their return, with which they set out for the Vessels at five in the morning & in some part of their way by a different route more Southerly to that in which they went, as it was Mr. Johnston’s wish to find a more eligible Channel for the Vessels to go through than by the Rapids which was the only part he most dreaded, but their provision being wholly expended inducd him to relinquish the exploring of any passage of uncertain direction to the Southward which had the least chance of protracting their return., they therefore hastend night & day to join the Ships which they did about two in the morning on the 12th of July harassed with hunger & fatigue being for the last two days upon a single scanty meal & without any rest or out of the Boats for the last 24 hours. On the first day of their exploring they saw but very few Natives & those were very shy notwithstanding every enticing means was used to establish a confidential inter- course, but as they approachd towards the sea coast Villages & Natives were more numerous than in any part they had yet examined & they were not a little surprized to find that many of them were arrivd with Muskets which they could handle & use with much ease & great dexterity. The Natives near the Sea Coast spoke the same language as the Nootka Tribe, & some of them could blab several English words, from which it evidently appeard that they have had some late intercourse with the English or American Traders. They also talkd much / of Maquinna the Chief of Nootka Sound with whom they seemd to have kept up a considerable commercial intercourse as they spoke of having receivd from him almost every article of Traffic in their posession such as Cloths Muskets &c.—These Muskets did not appear to be of English Manufactory as their Barrels were securd to the Stocks by means of Iron hoops, so that it appears extremely probable that Maquinna has been the grand agent Menzies’ Journal. Johnstone Strait. 81 through which the bartering Commerce of this interior Country has been carried on by some inland communication, for the Channel by which our party penetrated to the Ocean runs to the North West ward about 20 leagues behind Nootka & tho the intervening Mountains opposite to that Port are of considerable height with snowy summits yet in several places deep Valleys & Chasms seemd to penetrate through & renderd this inland communication more evident. Mr. Johnstone having made known that they reachd in sight of the Ocean at that part of the Coast namd in our late Charts Queen Charlotte’s Sound, the Channel of com- munication by which he penetrated obtaind the name of Johnstone’s Streights in honour of his persevering zeal in the prosecution of this discovery. Capt Vancouver resolvd to proceed thither with the two Vessels, & on comparing what had been done by the other Boats, it appeard pretty evident by the flood tide coming from the Westward that the Channel where Mr. Puget / & Mr. Whidbey left off communicated with Johnstone’s Streights & as it seemd to then as far as they examind it to be a navigable Channel it was determined to attempt a passage that way in preference to the Rapids where Mr. Johnstone was apprehensive of most danger, & for that purpose we on the following morn- ing quitted our situation in Desolation Reach which was in Latitude 50° 11’ North & Longitude 235° 21’ East from Greenwich. The Morning of the 13th set in with a fresh breeze from the Westward with which both Vessels weighd & made Sail leaving the two Spanish Vessels behind at Anchor after taking a cordial leave of our new friends with whom we now parted, but first steerd to the South East’ for about two leagues & then hauld over between the Islands to the South West Ward till we came to the entrance of the Channel where we Anchord in the afternoon & Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey were immediately dispatchd with two Boats to prosecute their examination of it & ascertain whether it was a navigable passage for the Vessels into Johnstone’s Streights. I landed with Capt Vancouver & some of the officers on the North Point of the Entrance which was afterwards named Cape Mudge. It forms a steep elevated naked bank on the edge of which we found a considerable village con- 1792. July 12th. Inland communication was well known to the Spaniards and traders some years before this. Indicated on maps by Dixon and Meares without name and shown by Dalrymple with name in 1789. See Mem. No. I. this ser. July 13th. Discovery Passage. Yuculta, now the official spelling, but with many variants. 82 Menzies’ Journal. Cape Mudge. 1792. sisting of about 12 houses or Huts plankd over with large July 13th. S oa liete boards some of which were ornamented with rude paintings particularly those on the fronts of the houses. They were flat roofed / & of a quadrangular figure & each house con- taind several families to the number of about 350 Inhabitants in all on the most moderate calculation, for there were 18 Canoes along side of the Ship before we left it, & on landing we counted about 70 on the Beach, so if we allow only 4 persons to each Canoe which is very moderate it will give upwards of the number we have above computed. This is the first Like the generality of Natives we met with in this description of | Country these were of a middling stature & rather slender bodied, of a light copper colour: they were awkward in their motions & ill formd in their limbs which no doubt in some measure proceeded from their constant practice of squatting down on their heels in their posture of setting either on Shore or in their Canoes: They have flat broad faces with small starting eyes:—Their Teeth are small & dirty; their Ears are perforated for appending Ornaments either of Copper or pearly Shells; the Septum of the Nose they also pierce & sometimes wear a quill or piece of tooth-shell in it; their Hair is streight black & long, but mixd with such quantity of red-ocre grease & dirt puffed over at times with white down that its real colour is not easily distinguishable ; they have long black Beards with long Hair about their privates, but none on their Breasts or on the Arm pits.— Some had ornamented their faces by painting it with red- ocre sprinkled over with black Glimmer that helped not a little to heighten their ferocious appearance. / The women & children did not appear any wise shy or timerous tho we were pretty certain our party were the first Europeans they had ever seen or had any direct inter- course with, nor did they seem to regard us or the Vessels with any particular degree of curiosity. The women were decently coverd with Garments made Arbor wi@. —|either of the Skins of wild Animals or wove from Wool or similar to but | the prepared bark of the American Arber Vitae Tree, but not identical ee many of the Men went entirely naked without giving the ' species. It was|least offence to the other Sex or shewing any apparent later described Kwakiutl Indians. as Thuja shame at their situation. icata, th . . Een We saw but few Sea Otter Skins amongst them which Giant Cedar of | shews that these Animals do not much frequent the interior Menzies’ Journal. ~ Yuculta Indians. 83 Channels & perhaps only straggling ones at particular Seasons, for the Fur of the few pieces we saw was of a very inferior quality to those found along the exterior edge of the Coast. Their Fish-hooks are nearly the same as at Nootka Sound & we saw some Fishing-Nets drying upon stakes before the houses; their Bows were lin’d with Sinews & shap’d like those we saw on the East Side of this great Gulph, & the Arrows were also fastend in the same manner, but most of them were armed with pieces of Muscle Shell instead of flinty stones. Their Canoes were small with pro- jecting prows & dug out of one piece of Timber each with four or five small thorts & some of them had their outside ornamented with rude figures painted with red-ochre: their Paddles were short with round handles & pointed blades. / Some Fish & Curiosities were purchasd from them for Beads & small Trinkets, & in these little dealings they appeard to be guided by the strictest honesty, indeed their whole conduct during our short stay was quiet friendly & hos- pitable, pressing us often to partake of their entertainment such as Fish Berries & Water, & we in return endeavourd to make them sensible of our approbation by distributing among the Women & Children some small presents, which made them appear highly gratified. Behind the Village we saw a considerable quantity of the American Cock Spur Thorn, backd by a dense Forest of Pine Trees into which we were lead by a small path till we came to a large clear Area that appeard to be intended as a place of amusement, but what Games they exhibit here we had no opportunity to know. We afterwards walkd to the Westward along the side of the Channel on a pleasant clear level pasture for near two Miles, where we observd in the verge of the wood their manner of disposing of their dead which was by putting them either in small square boxes or wrapping them well up in Mats or old garments into square bundles & placing them above ground in small Tombs erected for the purpose & closely boarded on every side, but as we saw only two or three of these places they might probably belong to the Chiefs or some Families of distinc- tion.—After enjoying this walk we returnd on board in the dusk of the evening. 1792. July 13th. Sinew-lined bows are not reported from north of this in B.C. Bows lined with snake-skin were common in the south. Mussel-shell arrow-poinis. Made from pieces of the Giant Mussell (Mytilus californianus). From this point northwards the canoes were furnished with projecting sterns as well as bows. See plate in Vanc., I., 364, showing the ‘* Discovery on the Rocks.’’ Cockspur Thorn. The species here referred to is Douglas’ Thorn (Crategus brevispina). They walked northward to the site of the present village. 84 Menzies’ Journal. Menzies Bay. 1792. July 14th. Menzies’ Bay, on the west or larboard shore. Nymphe Cove. Discovery Passage. Seymour Narrows. Elk Bay. / Early in the morning of the 14th both Vessels weighed & ply’d up the Arm against a fresh North West Wind till we gaind about ten Miles & then Anchord again about 8 in the forenoon in a small Bay on the Star board Shore, where we intended to remain till our Boats returnd.— In the afternoon the Captain & some of the Gentlemen going on shore to make some Astronomical observations gave me an opportunity to accompany them to examine the natural productions of the Country, which I found here exceeding barren & met nothing new except a species of Penstemon. We afterwards visited two Huts in a small Cove close to our landing place containing several Families to the Amount of about thirty people, & as my time was not otherwise much occupied I got them to count their Numerals which I found to agree nearly with those of the East side of the Gulph of New Georgia; hence it is probable that they spoke a broken dialect of the same language, of which however our constant movement from place to place did not suffer us to obtain but a very superficial knowledge. We therefore consider this to be about the Western limits of that Nation as we soon afterwards fell in with the Nootka language. The small Bay we now occupied lays in Latitude 50° 8’ North & Longitude 234° 45’ East. The Tide of Flood came here from the Westward in a strong race & the Vertical rise was from eight to ten feet. The Country around us was of a moderate height & of a very hilly rocky & barren appear- ance tho every where thinly coverd with stinted pines. In the evening our two Boats returnd & the Gentlemen reported that the Channel we / were now in lead into John- ston’s Streights about four Leagues off, & appeard to be a clear & navigable passage that far, only in some places it was very narrow & the Tide run very rapid—We were to get under way with the next Ebb but had no Wind, we therefore remaind in this Bay till the following afternoon; when both Vessels weighd & with the assistance of the Ebb Tide began plying against a fresh Westerly breeze through a very narrow pass with high rocky shores on both sides, & were followd by some Canoes from the small Village for about two leagues up the Arm & having gone about another league we anchord again at 8 in the Evening on the Larboard Shore where we stopd for the night. Menzies’ Journal. Johnstone Strait. 85 At day light on the 16th we again weighd & having | 1792. made Sail we soon after got into Johnstone’s Streights where |°" *°" we met a fresh breeze & rough water but taking the advan- tage of the Ebb Tides we kept plying to the Westward this & the following day & brought to on either side during the Flood Tides as we found it necessary, for though the Channel was seldom above two Miles wide yet it was so deep that we could get no Anchorage except in the small Bays close in shore-——We passed on the South Side of an Island laying nearly mid-channel, while the Chatham went | Pender 1a. on the other side, & we found both sides sufficiently safe & clear of any apparent danger. On the following day when we came to the first opening leading off to the Northward, | Port Neville. which Mr. Johnstone had passed unexamined in order to ascertain the communication with the Ocean, Mr. Puget & | July 17th. Whidbey were sent with our Launch & Cutter Manned & Armed to explore it, after which they were to follow us to the next / opening to the Westward on the same side of the | Havannah Channel & search for us about the Entrance of it. We| 0" passed some small Villages on the Southern shore but had no intercourse with any of the Natives, which we supposd might proceed from their shyness or the panic with which they might be struck at seeing two large Vessels traversing their Channel to Windward with so much apparent ease & moving in every direction so obedient to our will with such mechanical powers as they could have no idea of, & must no doubt afford to their uncultivated minds a subject of the utmost admiration & astonishment. In the evening as we were standing into a Bay to | Adams River. Anchor on the Southern Shore a breast of a low Marsh which seemd to run back into a Valley between the Mountains we shoald our Water so unexpectedly that both Vessels were nearly aground. On the 18th we continued our progress to the Westward | July 1sth. in the main Channel while the Chatham was sent over to the North Shore to look into a Bay or Opening off which there | mayannah appeard some small Island, but as we had little wind it was Ran near noon before she enterd it & we lost sight of her, when we concluded it to be an opening, we therefore made but little advance till on the following morning when we were joind again by Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey in the two Boats. After having explord the Branch they went to examine to 86 Menzies Journal. Johnstone Strat. 1792. July 18th. Johnstone Strait. Alt. 5,000 ft. here. Wakashians of Cook, Voy., Il., 337. The Kwakiutl word for ‘‘welcome’’ is very different from wakash and was probably used by traders with other words which remain as part of the ‘* Chinook ”’ jargon. July 20th. Cathlagees of Menzies ; Cheslakees of Vancouver ; Cathlaginess its source in weighing in the morning we carried away one of the flukes of our small bower Anchor which situated as we were was a great & an irreparable loss to us. The South Side of this Channel rose in most places abruptly into high steep broken / Mountains coverd with a continud forest of Pines to their summits which in some places was checquerd with patches of Snow, but the Land on the North side tho’ hilly is of a moderate height, the great chain of high continental Mountains being five or six leagues removed & extending to the North Westward with elevated rugged snowy summits apparently forming every where an impenetrable barrier to any communication with the opposite side of the Continent. We continued passing several Villages on the South Shore as already mentioned, but hitherto the Natives remaind so shy that we had no intercourse with them. We were now however visited by some Canoes & Natives from whom we procurd a quantity of Salmon. We found that they spoke the Nootka language, & it was evident to us at first sight that they were of the same Tribe by their crying out Wakash }Wakash as they were coming along side, which is their expression for friendship, & as it so readily dis- tinguishes the Individuals of this extensive Tribe to a Stranger, I think they may be very aptly named as Captain Cook has already hinted the Wakashion Nation. As we advanced to the Westward we soon found the Northern Shore to be much broken with Islands & Inlets, but we kept on along the South Side till we came abreast of a large Village which Mr. Johnstone & his party had visited in their Boats, & reported it to be very numerously inhabited with great abundance of Sea Otter Skins. Here we anchord in seven fathoms about ten in the Evening. Early in the Morning of the 20th we were visited by a great number of Natives in their Canoes from the Village, & a small traffic / commencd for Sea Otter Skins & Salmon, of the former there was here a more plentifull supply than any part we had yet visited, & the eagerness with which they were sought after afforded a good deal of jocular merriment even to the Natives. A middle aged man was announced as the Chief & admitted on board, his name was Cathlagees & his attention was chiefly occupied in regulating the traffic between us & his Countrymen which he did with great acute- Menzies’ Journal. Nimpkish Indians. 87 ness & seemd anxious to preserve a good understanding on | 1792. both sides. In the afternoon I went with Capt Vancouver & some of the Officers accompanied by the Chief to the Village called Whannoc, we found it pleasantly situated, exposed to a Southern Aspect on the slopeing bank of a small creek well shelterd behind by a dense forest of tall Pines. The houses were regularly arranged & from the Creek made a picturesque appearance by the various rude paintings with which their fronts were adornd. On our approach to the landing place in the two Boats, several of the Natives assembled on the Beach to receive us, & conducted us very orderly through every part of the Village, where we observd that the Houses were built much in the same manner as at Nootka, but much neater, & the Inhabitants being of the same Nation differd very little either in their manners or dress from the Nootka Tribe. Several families lived in common under the same roof, but each had their sleeping place divided off & screend in with great decency, & with a degree of privacy not attended to in the Nootka habita- tions. The Women were variously employd, some in cul- inary occupations, others were engagd in / Manufacturing of Garments Mats & small Baskets & they did not fail to dun us for presents in every House we came to in a manner which convined us that they were not unaccustomd to such Visitants. Buttons Beads & other Trinkets were distributed amongst them, & so eagerly solicitous were they for these little articles of ornament that our pockets were soon emptied of them, & tho they were free & unreservd in their manners & conversation, yet none of them would suffer any of our people to offer them any indecent familiarities, which is a modesty in some measure characteristic of their Tribe. _ On coming to an elderly Chief’s House we were enter- taind with a song which was by no means unharmonious, the whole group at intervals joind in it, & kept time by beating against planks or any thing near them with the greatest regu- larity, after which the old Chief presented each of us with a slip of Sea Otter Skin & sufferd us to depart. In prepar- ing for this vocal entertainment the Natives made such a bustle in arming themselves with Clubs Spears Sticks Paddles &c for beating time with, that we were at first a little alarmd & had some suspitions of their having hostile July 20th. of the anony- mous author of a journal of the Voyage of the Chatham. (See Meany, E. Ss. A New Vancouver Journal.) Whannock, Menzies. Whanneck of the anonymous writer just referred to; Whulk of recent writers. 88 Menzies’ Journal. Nimpkish Village. 1792. July 20th. intentions, till their conduct evinced the contrary & we were then happy that good understanding had not been inter- rupted by our unfounded distrust. We saw Muskets in several Houses, most of them appeard to be of Spanish Manufactory by the make of the Lock & the manner in which the Barrel was fastend to the Stock by broad hoops.—Cathlagees had no less than seven Muskets in his own House kept in exceeding good order. / The number of Inhabitants in this Village we esti- mated to be about 500 & their commercial intercourse with the Natives of Nootka by some inland communication was pretty evident from their own accounts, for they assurd us of having receivd from thence most of the Articles of European Manufactory in their posession, so that it appears extremely probable that this is the Channel by which that post has been of late years supplied with a considerable share of its fine Fur from the Northern regions, for they are well acquainted with traffic & the value of their own commodi- ities, but in their dealings seem to act fair & honest. Upwards of 200 Sea Otter Skins were procurd from them during our short stay at more than double the value I ever saw given for them on any other part of the Coast, conse- quently many of our Articles of Commerce begin now to lose their intrinsic Value amongst them. Iron though valu- able to most other Indian Nations was here scarcely sought after. The articles they most esteemd were Sheet Copper & coarse broad blue Cloth; Of the former they took from half a sheet to two thirds for a Skin, & of the latter a piece about the square of the Cloth, but they sometimes preferrd Woollen Cloth made up in the form of short Jackets or Trowsers. They likewise eagerly asked for fire arms powder & shot, but both policy & prudence should ever prevent them from being distributed amongst them, as such powerful weapons render them too formidable to neighbour- ing Tribes & be apt to increase the horrors of War between them, they also make them more inclind to ill use or take advantage of any / small Vessel that may be led thither on commercial pursuits. This Village is about 20 leagues from the entrance of Nootka nearly in a North direction, & as the interior parts of that Sound have not yet been thoroughly explored, it is probable some of its branches may penetrate nearly across Menzies’ Journal. Nimpkish Village. 89 & afford an easy means of communication to the Natives of both places—Saw here a pewter Basin on the bottom of which was La Flovie V. Francais. We remaind here till the following forenoon at which time we weighd & stood back again under an easy sail to the Eastward, till we came to that part we passed on the 19th where the North side of the Channel became broken & insular. Here we anchord in the afternoon close to one of the Islands & steadied the Ship by a Hawser fastend to a Tree on Shore. This being the place of rendezvous we waited in daily expectations of being joined by the Chatham, so that no excursion was undertaken or nothing particular happend for the following six days, only one of the Officers was sent in the Cutter the day after we anchord into an Arm leading to the Eastward on purpose to look for the Chatham, with orders not to go far, he therefore returnd on the day following without seeing or hearing any thing of her. We were almost daily visited by small parties of the Natives in their Canoes from the Village, who generally brought us a supply of Salmon, tho by no means sufficient to supply all the Ship’s company. Some of the people were employd on the Island cutting fire wood / & a party was engagd at times in fetching Water from the opposite side of the Channel, for none was to be met with on the side we were on, it being mostly Islands & low land. The surrounding Islands & low land being every where coverd with a continued forest of Pines afforded but little variety of Soil or situation for Botanical researches, so that I made but few new acquisitions during our stay at this place. Two new species of Vaccinium was pretty common in the woods & grew in some places to upwards of 12 feet high, the one had large black berries & the other red,— which were now beginning to ripen, & as they posessd a gratefull acidity we found them extremely pleasant & palat- able after being so long upon salt provision. The only other fruit which the woods at this time afforded us was a new species of Rasberry that grew at least to ten feet high, & of which there were two varieties, one with a large red fruit & another with a yellow that were both equally grate- full & pleasant but were not met with in any great abun- dance. These Fruits together with a daily supply of fresh Spruce Beer greatly assisted to correct the bad tendency of 1792. July 20th. La Flavie, French ship of about 500 tons, Capt. Magon. July 21st. East end of Hanson Id. V. parvifolium and ovalifolium (Red and Black Huckleberry). Rubus spectabilis. ey / go Menzies’ Journal. Hanson Island. 1792. July 21st. First collected by Menzies in Alaska, 1787. July 27th. Havannah Channel and Call Creek. Fife Passage or Sound. our present mode of living—lI have also met with the Menziesia ferruginea which I had not observd in any part of our more interior Navigation or in New Georgia, hence it is very probable that this rare plant is only to be found towards the outer skirts of the Coast. / The weather being at this time rather unsettled & squally, Mr. Whidbey was sent one day in the Cutter to examine some Bays on the opposite side of the Channel between us & the Village for a more commodious harbour in case it should be found necessary to remove the Ship into a place of greater safety. I accompanied him to examine the produce of the Country, but found nothing different from what I had before seen in other parts, we returnd on board again in the evening & had not long quitted the place we had been examining, when as we afterwards understood the Chatham came into the Channel & Anchord nearly off it, though we saw nothing of her. Soon in the afternoon of the 27th Mr. Broughton came on board the Discovery in his Boat & acquainted us that they had anchord with the Chatham a little to the Westward of us on the preceeding evening, & in attempting to weigh this morning in order to join us, they found their Anchor had hook’d a Rock, which baffled all their endeavours to clear with the strongest purchase they were able to make use of.— After parting with us on the 18th they enterd a Channel which carried them five or six leagues to the North West Ward before it terminated, they then continued tracing the Continental Shore through a number of winding Channels, some of which were very narrow & yet so deep that they sometimes could not find bottom with a hundred fathoms of line, & even obligd to Anchor at one time close to the Shore in / upwards of 70 fathom. They however per- severd in their object, sometimes with their Boat, & sometimes with the Vessel, till they came out by a Channel nearly opposite to us on the preceeding day, having by their track surrounded a large group of Islands which obtaind the name of Broughton’s Archipelago. They saw some Villages & were in several places visited by a number of the Natives from whom they now & then got a small supply of Fish but they saw very few Furs or any other thing for traffic. In one place where they had but little wind the Chatham was drove on shore by the force of the Tide but as it fortunately Menzies’ Journal. Broughton Archipelago. gI happend to be rising they soon got her off again without | 1792. receiving any damage. As the weather was squally and |?"” 27th. unsettled Mr. Broughton remaind on board the Discovery all night. The forenoon of the 28th we had westerly wind & | July 28th. heavy Rain but weighd pretty early & plied to the westward in order to assist the Chatham in clearing her Anchor which we found they had accomplishd in heaving a tight strain on their Cable the evening before & leaving it in that state all night by which means the Anchor came loose in the Morning & they were enabled to get under way & join us when we immediately hauld the wind & stood to the Northward across a large Sound strewd over with a number of Islands till we | ouecen came to the Channel where the Chatham left off exploring | Charett? S¢ the Continental Shore & enterd it about two in the after-| Fite souna. noon, but there being little wind & the Tide making against us we went but a little way up when we were obligd to anchor for the night, which remaind / calm & fair till about nine next morning, when a light favorable breeze sprung up, | July 29th. with which we both proceeded North Easterly up the | tribune Channel to its first division into two branches, where in going | (7aneet 34° into the Westermost, we enterd upon new ground, but having | simoom sa. little wind & night coming on we anchord in 47 fathoms about two miles from its entrance. Before we got under way in the morning we were visited by a small party of the Natives in their Canoes, who as we were weighing Anchor removd from us to a little distance & there remaining stationary continued gazing upon us as we were making Sail with the utmost astonishment, & as it is probable we were the first Vessels they had ever seen in these Channels their excited curiosity at seeing us thus manoeuvre will not appear extraordinary. Next morning we found the Arm in which we anchord | July 30th. was not above half a mile wide so consequently did not expect it would go far, & close to us it sent off a branch to the Westward, As the day was nearly calm & fair I in the forenoon accompanied Capt Vancouver & some of the Officers in the Pinnace on a short excursion up the northern branch, & about two miles from the Ship we passed a large stream of fresh water issuing out of a deep gully round the mouth of which we observd a vast number of Salmon leap- ing & gamboling—Here the Arm took a sudden turn round 92 Menzies’ Journal. Simoom Sound. 1792. July 30th. O’Brien Basin, Shawl Bay. July 31st. Sutlej Channel. Hemlock of Eastern Canada as then named. Afterwards separated from Pinus and placed in genus Tsuga, of which our lowland form is T. heterophylla. Phalacrocoraz sp. One of the Green Cormorants. Aug. ist. to the Westward & soon after ended in a small Basin which was separated from the Western branch by a low isthmus of only about a hundred yards wide where we landed & walkd across & afterwards returnd to the Ship to dinner. / The Country on each side was coverd with Pines, steep, Moun- tainous & rocky. Early in the morning of the 31st two Boats were equipped & sent off under the direction of Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey up the Western branch on a surveying expedition, while Capt Vancouver & Mr. Broughton went off at the same time in the Pinnace with intention to accompany them a short way to see if it was practicable to follow them further up with the Vessels, & if so, to settle on a place of rendezvous. A party began to Water & another to brew Spruce Beer, but after erecting the Brewing Utensils on shore, they brought me word that there was none of that particular Spruce from which they used to Brew to be found near the landing place, on which I recommended another species (Pinus Canadensis) which answerd equally well & made very salubrious & palatable Beer. In the forenoon I employd myself in examining a small collection of Plants I made on the preceeding day, but in the afternoon I accompanied a shooting party who went in a small Boat under a high perpendicular Cliff about two miles off which we had passed on our right hand as we enterd the Arm in the Vessels. Our Game was a particular kind of Shag (Pelecanus Urile) that were breeding in the Horizontal Crevices of the Rocks & at this time were very numerous as the young ones were beginning to fly, to them our chief aim was directed with some success & we found them next day very palatable. In the forenoon of the tst of August I accompanied a party of the Officers of both Vessels who were going to spend the day towards the head of the Arm, in order to profit by the opportunity in examining their route for rare plants, particularly the deep gully from which the large Brook emptied its rapid stream in to the Arm. Here we first landed & on seeing the vast number of Salmon which kept still gamboling about the mouth of it, the Boat was sent on board the Discovery for the Seine & on the first haul we mashd about four dozen of them, & the second haul was Menzies’ Journal. Simoom Sound. 93 nearly as successfull. The day becoming dark & gloomy } 1792. ‘ FS . Aug. ist. with heavy rain obligd us to return on board sooner than we intended with our collection of Salmon which was an accept- able supply for all hands on board both Vessels, & what was very remarkable the same Seine was hauled in the same place again & again on the two succeeding days without catching a single fish, though they were seen equally abundant in the water. In the Gully I found a new species of Henchera & keepin another of Polytricum with plenty of the two Vacciniums | common here- which were here very productive with red & black berries. | first aeseribea The weather continued dark & gloomy the remainder of |** “““"""™ this & on the following day with frequent loud Claps of Thunder preceeded by vivid flashes of lightning, which was the first we had experiencd in these interior regions. Mr. Johnstone made the Latitude of this place in 50° 30’ 30” North with the artificial Horizon—The / Vertical rise of the Tide was about ten feet, but the Stream either way was scarcely perceptible. In the forenoon of the 37 we had hazy weather with | Aug. 3ra. some Rain & little wind. About two in the afternoon Capt Vancouver & Mr. Broughton returnd in the Pinnace, having penetrated by the Western branch into the Sound, & there having appointed a place of meeting with the other two Boats, they were orderd to proceed on their examination, while the two Commanders hastend back to take the Vessels thither by the Channel we came in at, as the Western branch was not found sufficiently eligible. In point of refreshment they were tolerably well off, as they had the good fortune to kill a Deer soon after their departure from the Vessels. Every thing was now got off from the Shore, & both Vessels immediately weighd to return back the Arm, but | Fite souna. there being but little wind we were not able to proceed far when we were obligd to anchor again in the dusk of the evening in sixty fathoms. Next morning was mostly calm but we got under way | 4xs. 4th. pretty early to take the advantage of the ebb Tide in drop- ping down the Arm. About ten in the forenoon a fresh breeze sprung up from the Westward, against which we continued plying till in the evening we reachd the entrance where we observd the two Boats coming round the outer point from the Westward, & both Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey 8 04 Menzies’ Journal. Queen Charlotte Sound. 1792. Aug. 4th. Hast of Point Boyles of Vancouver. Aug. 5th. Queen Charlotte Sd. Aug. 6th. Near Deserters’ Islands. with their party soon after joind us, having pursued the Continental shore through intricate winding Channels that led them out into the Sound—They met with a few straggling parties of the Natives & particularly a Chief who had his Arm blown / up with Gun powder on the other side of the Sound, & which they dressd for him.—They also met with some falls of Salt Water of fourteen or sixteen feet high which surprized them not a little but as none of them were above the reach of the Tide at high water, it is probable that these falls were from Basins filled at that time which continued emptying slowly until the next return of the Tide as we have already observd in another place. Having but little wind in the evening & the Tide making against us we were inducd to drop Anchor in very deep water a little to the westward of the entrance of the Channel we came out of. The morning & forenoon of the 5th was Calm with very thick fog till about noon when it cleard up so as to enable us to get a Meridian Altitude of the Sun which made our Latitude 50° 50’ North & we were at the same time near the North Shore of this great Sound & about 25 leagues nearly due North of Nootka Sound. The great North West range of high Mountains was not now far removd from us, their Summits were coverd with Snow & their sides every where wooded with a con- tinued forest of Pines down to the shore of the Sound which appeard bleak & rocky. The Sound is here about five leagues wide & every where interspersed with numerous Islands. Soon after noon a moderate westerly breeze set in, & being at the same time favord with the ebb Tide, we both weighd, & continued plying to windward along the northern shore of the Sound till the Evening when it fell nearly calm, but as the Sound was wide, we kept under way all night, with very litttle wind & hazy weather. The 6th continued Calm & hazy till a little past noon when it cleard up with a light breeze from the Westward against which we continued plying till about half past four in the afternoon, when we were standing in towards the North Shore of the Sound, going at the rate of about three knots through the Water, the Discovery struck upon a small bed of Rocks under Water & there stuck fast. On sounding Menzies’ Journal. Queen Charlotte Sound. 95 close round her we found from three to six fathoms water, bg except the Rock she struck on which had only two fathoms.| ~~ A small Anchor & Cable was immediately carried out from the quarter & every attempt made to heave her off the way she came on, but without effect, as the Tide had already ebbed a little, & was now falling from her so very fast that she began to heel a good deal to Starboard, on which the Top Gallant Masts were took down, the yards & top masts struck, & a stout spar was got over the side to shore her up.—In this alarming & critical situation Mr. Broughton bore down with the Chatham & came to an anchor in very deep water close by us, in order to be ready with his Men & Boats to give every assistance that might be necessary for our preservation, & from his well known coolness & intre- pidity we derivd no small consolation. As the water fell from her forward, she became deeply immergd abaft & heeld so considerably that part of her main Chains were in the Water, so that we could scarcely stand on her deck without grasping by the Rails or the Rigging, for at low water she had only three feet of Water on the Rock under her forefoot, while there were three fathoms & a half of water under the main Chains / & five fathoms under the stern post, fortunately however there was but very little wind & no swell that could any wise molest us, so that we waited patiently for the return of high water, but in the mean time employd the Boats in sounding round us to obtain a more thorough knowledge of our situation, & in carrying out an Anchor & Cable into deep water to heave her off. And to make certain of her floating at high water she was lightened by starting 17 Ton of water & heaving a quantity of Wood & Ballast over board. With these precautions we had the satisfaction to get her afloat against about two o'clock the next morning without receiving any apparent damage & as we had very little wind & thick fog, the fore- noon was chiefly employd in restowing the Booms & getting up the Yards & Topmasts, on which occasion John Turner one of the Seamen had the misfortune to have his right arm fractured by the Mast Rope being carried away in swaying up the Main top gallant Mast. About noon it cleard up a little so as to enable us to ascertain our Latitude which was 50° 55’ North & soon after a fair breeze springing up, we weighed, & with the Tide of Ebb pursued our course to the 96 Menzies’ Journal. Oucen Charlotte Sound. 1792. Aug. 6th. One of the Barnacles. California Mussel. Aug. 8th. North Westward followd by our Consort, who about six in the evening being a little astern made the signal of distress having struck upon a sunken reef of Rocks by keeping too close to an Island they were coming past, & it being ebb Tide they remaind fast. We immediately dropped Anchor in 75 fathoms & sent an Officer with Boats to her assistance & in the mean time Mr. Whidbey was sent ahead with the Pinnace to Sound & look out for the best Channel, I accom- panied him on / this service. We had not gone above four Miles from the Ship when we came to a small barren Island on which we landed to take some bearing & here I saw vast abundance of a new species of Lepas adhering to the Rocks in large Clusters, together with a large species of Mussel which was likewise new. A great number of Sea Otters which we disturbd & frightend off the Rock when we landed, continued swimming about it while we staid & after- wards followd us some way in the Boat, sometimes approach- ing it very near. In returning again on Board we had to encounter a strong Tide which retarded us till very late in the evening & having had no accounts from the Chatham we passed the night under considerable anxiety for the safety of our friends, as from their exposed situation the rapid Tides & heavy swell it was not any easy matter to eradicate the idea of shipwreck from our minds. Till at day light next morning we had the pleasure of seeing her at Anchor a little distance from the Reef on which she grounded, & soon after she got under way & came towards us, when our Boats came along side, & we were informd that she had got off the Rocks a little after mid- night, that a swell rolling on the reef occasiond her thump- ing a good deal on the Rocks which twisted her Rudder & causd much uneasiness for her safety—They were obligd to shore her up on both sides, but not having a sufficient number of Spars on board for the purpose, the Tide happend to drift a very good one along side at the moment they wanted it & which was made / use of, & as she made no Water it was supposd that her bottom sustaind no material damage. The Chatham having come up with us we weighd & directed our course to the West ward ;—In passing the rocky islet we visited on the preceeding evening in the pinnace, there being little wind, the Tide drifted the Chatham so near 4 Menzies’ Journal. Queen Charlotte Sound. 97 to it that she touchd another sunken rock & hung upon it for 1792. about two minutes but got off again without receiving any |°"~ a apparent injury. The wind being scanty & rather against us in the afternoon, we stood in towards the Northern shore of the Sound & anchord within half a Mile of it in 55 fathoms where the Woods appeard to be small scrubby Pines that bore evident marks of the Oceanic blasts to which they were much exposd, for we were now in sight of the Sea & nearly out of this great intricate Sound, having a spacious opening & an unbounded Horizon in a West North West direction. The morning of the 9th was foggy till the day was well | aug. otn. advanced, when we both weighd Anchors & proceeded cau- tiously to the Westward with a light fair breeze out to Sea, passing through a narrow Channel of about a Mile wide between some Islands coverd with Pines in the entrance of the Sound. We were in this passage about noon when our | retween Pine Latitude by an indifferent observation was 51° North, and | 7a50™ though there appeard a spacious Channel between these Islands & the Northern Shore yet we did not attempt it, as we observd some low picked rocks & breakers strewd in two or three places at half-tide which shewd it to be foul ground & by no / means a commendable passage to Navigate with- out previous knowledge of its Soundings. Soon afternoon it became very thick & foggy with a moderate breeze of wind from the Westward, against which we continued making short tack to keep to Windward of these Islands till in the evening it cleard up & we found ourselves drifted over to the Southern Shore of the Sound & anchord within half a mile of it, as the uncertainty of the | Near shadwell Currents & Winds renderd it rather dangerous to be under Tene way during the night. The morning of the 1oth was foggy as we had it pretty | aug. 10tn. regular for some days past, till about 8 when it cleared with a moderate breeze from the Eastward, with which we weighd & stood to the Northward on the Outside of the Islands across the entrance of Oueen Charlotte’s Sound for the entrance of Fitzhugh’s Sound, having now traced the | ritznugn sa. Continental Shore through its various intricate windings & |{7s3°""” circumvolutions to the point which divides these two Sounds on the Outer Edge of the Coast & which lays in Latitude 51° 16’ North & Longitude 232° 30’ East, for at noon we had an observation about four miles to the Northward of it 98 Menzies’ Journal. Fitzhugh Sound. 1792. Aug. 10th. False Egg Id. The well- named Peril Rocks are Pearl Rocks of recent charts. Smith’s Inlet of Hanna. Dunean’s Plan of, published by Dalrymple, 1789. Aug. 11th. in Latitude 51° 20’ North, within half a mile of some small Islands laying close to the Continental shore, which here formd a hilly uneven Country wooded every where with Pines & backd at no great distance by elevated Mountains capt with Snow.—The shore itself was rocky & indented with small Bays which on both sides of the Point were choakd up with drift wood that bleachd by exposure / to the Weather & appeard at a distance like white sandy Bays. To the Westward of us, off the South end of Calvert’s Island, we saw what Capt Hanna who first visited this part of the Coast called the Peril Rocks, which appeard to be an extensive Shoal that renders the approach to this Sound from sea ward extremely dangerous. In the afternoon we passed some openings that branched off to the Eastward, one of which has been called Smith’s Inlet by some of the Traders, & continued our course up Fitzhugh’s Sound which is from three to four miles wide in the direction of North West by Compass, keeping the western shore on board till we came to Duncan’s Port Safety, where we both anchord late in the Evening, & found it to be a small Cove or Bay about two Leaugues up the Sound on Calvert’s Island in Latitude 51° 30’ North & Longitude 232° 23 East. Having securely stationd the Vessels in Safety Cove, two parties got ready & set out at day break on the morning of the 11th with four Boats manned & armed to continue the examination of the Continental Shore. The Captain accompanied them in the Pinnace to give the necessary instructions before they separated at the entrance of the Cove, where Mr. Puget & Mr. Whidbey with our Long Boat & Cutter had directions to go back & begin at Smith’s Inlet, & explore the Eastern side of the Sound to a point then in sight about five leagues to the North ward of us on the same shore, while Mr. Johnstone with the other two Boats / went on to begin at that point & from thence proceed to explore towards the Head of Fitzhugh’s Sound, & as his excursion seemd to offer a more interesting field for Botan- ical researches J accompanied him to examine the natural produce of the Country, & Capt. Vancouver went with us in the Pinnace to see if the Vessels could be moved higher up the Sound before our return, & if so to fix on a place of Meeting. Menzies’ Journal. Fitzhugh Sound. 99 We therefore proceeded to the Northward in the three Boats, passing two openings on the Western Shore till about Noon, when we came to the intended point on the eastern shore where we commencd our examination, but soon after the Weather became thick & foggy with incessant rain, that we were obligd to take shelter by landing our Tents in a small Cove where we remaind unable to stir out from the inclemency of the Weather till about noon on the following day, when it moderated a little so as to encourage us to set forward in our examination & having passed some small Bays & two or three Islands close to the Shore, we continued on till we came to an opening that branched off to the North east ward about eight or nine leagues from the entrance of the Sound. We had scarcely enterd this Arm when a thick fog came on with heavy rain & very unpleasant weather, we however persevered in going on, till about six in the evening, when we were about seven or eight Miles up the Arm & then landed in a large Bay on the Starboard Shore, pitching our Tents in the edge of the Wood near the conflux of a considerable Rivulet that collected in a deep / Valley from the adjacent snowy Mountains, & here we passed the night wet & uncomfortable as it continued to rain incessantly. On the 13th the Weather still continued so unfavorable that we were detaind at our encampment till about noon, which occasiond the Rivulet to be named Detention Rivulet. It appeard indeed to be the most considerable fresh Water Stream we had yet met with on this Coast. On its Banks we found Black Currants & Raspberries in abundance, & the Wocds were well stored with red & black Whortle berries. The Menziesia grew here also in abundance. The weather had by no means a settled appearance, but the rain having somewhat abated, we embarkd again in our Boats about noon & proceeded up the Arm which now took a North East by North direction nearly about two Miles wide between ridges of high snowy mountains adornd with foam- ing Torrents tumbling headlong down their steep sides over rocks & precipices, from the Melted Snow & the late Rains. In the afternoon we passed on our right a high steep Moun- tain separated from the rest & remarkable only for its conic form & naked rocky barren summit, for the other Mountains 1792. Aug. 11th. Kwabsbua and Hakai. Near Namu. Burke Channel. Unnamed, but S. of Restoration Bay. Aug. 13th. Menziesia ferruginea. 100 Menzies’ Journal. Burke Channel. 1792. Aug. 13th. Kelkpa. Aug. 14th. Empetrum nigrum (Crowberry), the Swedish Dogwood, and Roseroot, show- ing a cool moist climate. Kwatna Inlet, The Kwatlena Indian Reserve. Aug. 15th. on both sides of it were every where coverd seemingly higher up with Pine Forests to the very edge of the Snow. We continued on till dark when having surrounded a rocky barren point which formd a small Peninsula, we found on the North side of it a commodious Beach for encampment stored with / plenty of drift wood for making large fires to dry & warm ourselves after the uncomfortable rainy weather we had lately sustaind. Though the morning of the 14th had a dark gloomy unsettled appearance, we commenced our operations pretty early by first landing on the barren point we had passed so late on the preceeding evening to take bearings; here I first met on this Coast with the Empetrum migrum, Cornus Suecica, Rhodiola rosea &c besides a new dwarf species of Vaccinium. The Crew of the Pinnace being only Victualled for three days their provision was now expended, which obligd Capt Vancouver to return to the Ship, leaving Mr. Johnstone the Command of the other Boats with orders to proceed in exploring the continental shore as long as his provision lasted. After parting we therefore proceeded up the Arm in a North East direction till about noon when we found it divide & enterd a branch leading off South Westerly, but the afternoon being very rainy with foggy weather which continued all night we were not able to carry our exami- nation far when we stopped for the evening in a small Cove on the starboard side, having passed many pleasing Cascades & on the opposite side a large Bay where a considerable stream of fresh water emptied itself into the Arm. The morning of the 15th was still rainy & thick weather but cleard up about breakfast time when we pursued our Survey up the Arm which took a turn to the Southward & seen after ended in a deep Valley that made a considerable break in the mountains in that direction. We then put back & din’d at the place where we / encampd on the preceeding evening, after which we returnd down the Arm, haVing little Wind with thick foggy weather & frequent showers of heavy rain, but as we had only to go over our old ground we rowed on till dusk, when we came to the entrance of the Arm & brought to in a snug Cove round its eastern point where we pitchd our Tents on a small Isthmus for the night which continued to rain very hard throughout so that we were all Menzies’ Journal. Burke Channel. IOL wet & uncomfortable particularly the Men who had no other shelter but what they formed by the Boat Sails which were found very inadequate to screen them from the inclemency of such boisterous weather & such deluge of rain. On the 16th it continued Rain & fog till after breakfast time when the forenoon cleard up into fair & sunshiny weather with which we proceeded up the North East Arm assisted by a favorable breeze between two high ridges of dreary rocky mountains whose steep sides were thinly coverd with stinted woods while their summits were capt with per- petual Snow & many places were seen of considerable extent towards the upper regions of the Mountains exposing only a naked surface of rugged rocks without the least apparent vestage of vegetation. As we advancd on we found small black Birch Maples & Medlers with some Vacciniums to form the principal woody covering to these Mountains & Pines were only thinly scatterd here & there in Valleys near the Waterside making / as it were a slow progress. At noon we observd for our Latitude which we found to be 52° 22’ North & soon after passed an opening going off to the North West ward & in a Bay nearly opposite to it we observd some Smoak near the Beach which inducd us to land in expectation of seeing some of the Indians, but we found only an old deserted Hut that had been so lately occupied that the remains of the Fire was still burning by it, & behind it we found a large Canoe of 42 feet long hauld up into the Woods to be repaird—The Water was now brakish & pale colourd which made it pretty evident that the termi- nation of the Arm was not very far off, we therefore pro- ceeded anxiously on to reach the head of it, to save the necessity of sending other Boats to so great a distance to finish it—In the afternoon the foggy & rainy Weather again returnd, but as the breeze continued favorable we kept going on under these disadvantages & in the evening the Arm again divided into two branches, one took a South Easterly direc- tion which we followd till the dusk of the evening & then stopped near a large stream of fresh water for the night at the entrance of the Arm, the Western point of which after- wards obtaind the name of Point Menzies—The Water of the Arm was here almost fresh & very pale, but no other 1792. Aug. 15th. Aug. 16th. See Appendix. Labouchere Channel. South Bentinck Arm. Dividing S. Bentinck Arm from Burke Channel. 102 Menzies Journal. Burke Channel. 1792. Aug. 16th. Aug. 17th. Return by Burke Channel. Aug. 18th. signs of its ending, for it was not in the least contracted in its weadth which was here rather better than a mile. over. On the 17th our provision being very nearly expended it was not thought prudent with the bad weather we had to run on any further as it was not now likely we should be able to / finish all our branches, We therefore at day break set out on our return to the Vessels, leaving the heads of these different Arms undetermined. By nine we reachd the place where we had yesterday seen the Smoke—here we landed to breakfast & found the fire still burning at the root of an old tree & everything else in the same situation —After leaving pieces of Copper Nails Beads & other Trinkets in the large Canoe we pursued our way back the Arm with the most unfavorable Weather till the evening when we stopped on a fine pebbly Beach within a league of where Capt Vancouver parted with us, & for the first night since we left the Vessel had fair pleasant Weather but very cold. Next morning we were again in motion at day break, as we had the comfort of fair Weather, but we did not long enjoy it when it came on to rain again very hard with fluc- tuating gusts of wind that greatly retarded our progress.— As we had this day but a single scanty meal, every exertion was used to reach the Vessels both by rowing & sailing, & after persisting in our endeavours with fatiguing toil till ten at night we were obligd to stop about five leagues from them & spend the night in the Boats very uncomfortably, as it raind incessantly & all the Shelter we could make from the Boats Sails &c. was very inadequate to defend us from its inclemency. In this situation we anxiously lookd for- ward for day-light, when we again set out, cold, stiff, wet & hungry, & were greatly impeded in our progress by the wind & heavy swell being against us, up Fitzhugh’s Sound.—About ten in the forenoon we saw the Vessels under way off the entrance / of Safety Cove & as they advancd up the Sound to meet us we got on board the Discovery about noon, When we were informd that two days before they were visited in the Cove by the Venus Brig from Bengal Commanded by Mr. Shepherd on a Commercial Voyage trading for Furs along the Coast. Mr. Shepherd brought a letter to Capt Vancouver from the Master of the Doedalus Store Ship who had been laying at Nootka Sound for some time waiting our arrival.— This letter containd a short account of the melancholy fate Menzies’ Journal. Safety Cove. 103 of Lieut Rich’ Hergist who was charged with this Ship as Naval Agent & Mr. Wm. Gooch who was coming out in her to join the Discovery as an Astronomer together with one of the Seamen who were massacred on shore by the Natives at Woahoo one of the Sandwich Islands. In this situation of affairs Capt Vancouver resolvd on closing the first seasons examination of the Coast, & go to Nootka with both Vessels to join the Store Ship; for the Weather was now become so cold wet & uncomfortable that the men were no longer able to endure the fatiguing hard- ships of distant excursions in open Boats exposd to the cold rigorous blasts of a high northern situation with high dreary snowy mountains on every side, performing toilsome labor on their Oars in the day, & alternately watching for their own safety at night, with no other Couch to repose upon than the Cold Stony Beach or the wet mossy Turf in damp woody situations, without having shelter sufficient to screen them from the inclemency of boisterous weather, & enduring at times the tormenting pangs of both hunger & thirst, yet on every occasion / struggling who should be most forward in executing the orders of their superiors to accomplish the general interest of the Voyage—lIn short it is but justice to say that on this arduous service both Officers & Men were hourly exposed to various hardships & dangers, yet went cheerfully through the fatiguing operations of the Summer without murmur. And if we look back on the different winding Channels & Armlets which the Vessels & Boats traversed over in following the Continental Shore ever since they enterd De Fuca’s Streights, it will readily be allowd that such an intricate & laborious examination could not have been accomplishd in so short a time without the cooperating exertions of both Men & Officers whose greatest pleasure seemd to be in performing their duty with alacrity & encoun- tering the dangers & difficulties incidental to such service with a persevering intrepidity & manly steadiness that afforded a most pleasing omen to the happy issue of our future endeavours in this arduous undertaking. Both Vessels now directed their course out to Sea by the North end of Calverts Island about the Latitude of 51° 46’ North through a Channel formd on the North side by a numerous group of Islands of a moderate height wooded with Pines. The wind being against us we were obligd to 1792. Aug. 18th. Aug. 19th. Hakai Channel. 104 Menzies’ Journal. Port Wentworth. 1792. Aug. 19th. Menzies was with Colnett in the Prince of Wales then. Wentworth, Governor and Port. Aug. 20th. Aug. 21st. Triangle Id. Aug. 22nd. ply through till about eight in the evening, when we were able to make a stretch out to Sea about two leagues to the Southward of a little round Island off Port Wentworth where the Ship Prince of Wales / last Anchord before she left the Coast in the latter end of the year 1788, & at that time the Port was named in honor of Governor Wentworth of Nova Scotia——During the night we had moderate wind from the South East with foggy weather & some rain. The same thick rainy weather continued on the follow- ing day, so that we could not see to any great distance— We estimated our Latitude to be 51° 22’ North, & towards evening we had an encrease of blowing weather from the South East with heavy rain which reducd us to double reefd Top Sails & obligd us to spend the night on different tacks. On the 21st the Wind was from the same quarter but more moderate accompanied with a great swell & thick rainy weather so that we had no observation to ascertain our Lati- tude but saw the Westermost of Scott’s Islands S 5° E by Compass about 4 or 5 leagues distance. About midnight as we were standing in towards the Coast we shoaled our Water very suddenly from sixty to seventeen fathoms—rocky bottom which gave some alarm—we immediately tacked & made the Chatham signal to do the same & as we stood out soon deepend our water again. This sudden & great inequality of Soundings would induce a cautious Navigator to approach this part of the Coast with the utmost circum- spection. In the morning of the 22¢ we had light southerly wind with fair weather but a little hazy which cleard up towards noon / & enabled us to have a meridian altitude that deter- mind our Latitude 51° 7’ North, when the Westermost of Scott’s Islands bore S 24 E. by compass seven Miles.—In the afternoon we had it a little hazy again with a light breeze from South South West, which we kept close hauled to the South East & neared the Islands slowly,—At seven in the evening we were however so near as to perceive that there was no eligible passage for Vessels between them, at least it appeard in this direction very dangerous being interspersed with small peeked Rocks & Breakers the whole way across from one Island to the other, & each seemd well guarded with detachd Rocks all round. Menzies’ Journal. Triangle Island. 105 On the 234 we had dark hazy weather with some Rain & a moderate breeze from the South East. At noon we observed in 50° 49’ North, when the Westermost of Scott’s Isles bore N 60 E by Compass about six leagues. We stood close hauld to the Eastward with light wind for the after- noon & at night tacked & stood to the South west ward with Southerly wind & a heavy swell from the same quarter. Next morning we had some Rain & hazy weather with moderate wind from the South ward, but as the day advanced the wind shifted to the Westward & the Weather bacame fair & clear. At Noon Westermost of Scott’s Isles bore N 10 E by Compass about the distance of eight or nine Miles when our Latitude was 50° 43’ North. In the afternoon we stood to the Eastward a / little to the Southward of Scott’s Islands in order to ascertain their relative position. The Westermost is naked elevated & rocky with some litle verdure here & there & well guarded by detached picked rocks all round it. The second is a barren rock & much smaller than the former. The third has a few trees on it of a stinted appearance & nearly the size of the second. The eastermost & largest seems to be divided into two Islands which are well coverd with Trees & separated from the shore to the Eastward of them by a Channel of two leagues wide. They are of a height suffi- cient to be seen ten or twelve leagues off. About dusk of the evening being close in with the Coast, we brought to for the night to wait for the return of day light to examine the exterior Coast as we went along to the Southward. At day light on the 25th we bore up & made Sail again with a gentle breeze from the Westward & some showers of rain, which made it so thick & hazy over the land that we could not well discern its appearance excepting at short intervals. We proceeded to the Southeastward along the shore which seemd to be much indented with Bays & Inlets, & the Land rose in many places into steep Mountains of considerable height separated by deep winding valleys every where well wooded with Pines.—At noon our Latitude was 50° 18’ North Cape Split rock (so named from a remarkable rugged elevated rock about a mile off the point) bore South 75° East by Compass. By four in the afternoon we were abreast of this Cape which is in Latitude 50° 10’ North & Longitude ( ) & it makes a very conspicuous point on 1792. Aug. 23rd. Triangle Id. Aug. 24th. Triangle Id. Cox Id. Aug. 25th. Solander Id. off Woody Point, now Cape Cook. 106 Menzies’ Journal. Cape Cook. 1792. Aug. 25th. Aug. 26th. Hsperanza Inlet. Castillo de San Miguel of the Spaniards. Aug. 27th. Aug. 28th. this part of the Coast. As we went round Splitrock / we saw some small Rocks between it & the Shore, so that the Channel does not appear by any means to be a safe passage. We had a fresh breeze from the Westward with which we proceeded about six leagues further along the Coast till about sun set when we stood off & spent the night under an easy Sail with very little wind. The 26th we had a light breeze of wind from the East- ward against which we kept plying but made very little progress. Our Latitude at noon was 49° 51’ North, Cape Splitrock North 76° West by Compass. We were not at this time above four or five miles from the Land abreast of us which was low & coverd with wood, off which there appeard a number of small Islands but the Country behind appeard very mountainous & so elevated that the summits of several of them were still coverd with patches of Snow. Some of the Natives visited us in their Canoes, & after disposing of some Fish which they brought off to us, they made but a short stay when they paddled again to the Shore. In the evening we were abreast of the West entry into Nootka Sound but as it was hazy we stood off & on all night. Next day we kept plying to the Eastward against a breeze of wind which sometimes blew fresh & squally with dark hazy weather & some drizzling rain that greatly retarded our progress & entirely obscured the inland moun- tains from our view, we could however observe that those nearest to us rose with an easy & gradual acclivity & were skirted along shore with a fine extended / level border of Land where the luxuriant appearance of the Forest sufh- ciently indicated the fertility & richness of the Soil. These mountains were separated by wide intervening valleys densely wooded up the sides of the Mountains as far as the eye could discern. In the morning of the 28th we stood in again with a light favorable breeze from the Shore, but a thick fog still hovering over the Land we could not make out our situation sufficiently clear to run in, so that we were obligd to stand off again till it dispersed, when we bore up for the entrance of Nootka Sound & arrivd in Friendly Cove about four in the afternoon, & after coming to an Anchor an Officer was sent on shore to wait on the Governor & on his return we Menzies’ Journal. Nootka, 107 saluted the Fort with thirteen Guns which number was | 1792. Da . 7 | Aug. 28th. returnd from a Spanish Brig in the Cove on board of which |""* Don Quadra’s broad pendant was flying. The weather being so thick & hazy in the forenoon those on board the Chatham did not observe our motion when we tack’d, so that they continued standing in for the shore & guided by their Soundings got into the Cove & saluted the Fort two hours before us. This Fort, if it might be called such, was no other than two Guns mounted on a small Platform on the outer Point of the Cove, with a Flag Staff on which the Spanish colours were hoisted & a small guard mounted to give it the appearance of a place of defence. Besides the Spanish Brig above mentioned which was named Activa & commanded by / Don Menendez, we found | salvador here an English Brig namd the three Brothers from London | Vataes.” on the Fur trade commanded by Capt Elder, & the Dedalus | pcorue ' Transport commanded by Capt New sent out from England | Alder, R. N., a few Months aiter us, with Stores Provisions & Trade for vacances our expedition. After touching at Rio Janiero this Vessel came around Cape Horn & from thence directed her course for the Marquesas, a day or two after leaving which they discoverd on their way to Owhyhee, a group of Islands well peopled with friendly Natives & with a commodious harbour about the Latitude of ( ) South & Longitude ( ) & while procuring Water & other refreshments at the Sand- wich Islands in the Month of May last, they met with a melancholy accident in having Lieut Hergist their Agent & Commander Mr. Gooch who was coming out Astronomer to our expedition & a seaman cruelly murderd by the Natives on the Island of Woahoo. Of this fatal disaster the follow- ing relation is given from the information of those who were on the spot at the time it happend. Having but little success at Owhyhee & the windward Islands in procuring water & refreshing the people they went to Woahoo & came to an Anchor on the North West Side in expectation of obtaining by this means a quicker supply of these necessary Articles. Mr. Hergist however finding that this mode of Watering the Vessel by the Natives was too dilatory, he orderd the first Mate Mr. Neil to go on shore in the Cutter with some empty Casks to expedite the business, but he refusd to go / without having the Crew & himself sufficiently armed (there being only two Musque- 108 Menzies Journal. Nootka. 1792. Aug. 28th. toons that skipped into the Stancheons on the sides of the Boats). On which some altercation took place between them, & Mr. Hergist finding him persist in his conditions, rather than allow more fire arms, went himself accompanied by Mr. Gooch the Astronomer & a Native whom they had brought down from some of the Windward Islands, who strongly importund them not to go on shore unarmd, as they were bad people. This inducd Mr. New the Master of the Ship to slip two Muskets with Ammunition into the Boat unknown to Mr. Hergist, & thus equipped they pulled for the Shore with the Water Casks, & on Landing the two Gentlemen accompanied by two of the Seamen walked up the banks of the Rivulet till they found a convenient place for filling the Casks which was at no great distance from the Boat. Here the two Seamen were left employd in filling the Casks with some of the Natives, while the two Gentle- men took a stroll back into the neighbouring Plantation, where their Indian Friend again & again implored them not to venture unarmd, but all to no purpose, for they crossed the Rivulet a little higher up & made towards a Village on the opposite side. Not long after a group of the Natives were seen arming themselves with daggers &c & assembling on a small eminence close to the Watering place, among which they observd a resolute fellow swaggering with a large knife in his hand & haranguing the Natives that assisted in filling the Water Casks in a hasty speech, on which they / all went away & began to remove their effects from ‘the adjacent houses. Alarmd at such hostile appearances & dreading the safety of the Officers, one of the Seamen calld out as loud as he could for them to return, but unfortunately they were too far off, on which the Natives on the adjacent eminence rushd down hastily towards the two Seamen brand- ishing their Arms & a short scuffle ensued, from which the Seamen endeavourd to extricate themselves by running off to the Boat. And here let me relate with pleasure an instance of heroism & presence of mind in one of these Seamen Thomas Franklin seldom to be met with. The other was a Portu- guese & falling a little behind was soon overtaken in their retreat—his shrieks made Franklin look round when he saw one of the Natives grasping him from behind round the middle with his left hand, while uplifting the other with a large dagger in the act of Stabbing him, & notwithstanding Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 109 the imminent danger to which his own life was exposed, he eal instantly flew to rescue his Comrade with that stern intre-| ~~ pidity characteristic of true bravery, which made the Indians though very numerous shrink back from their intended pur- pose & though unarmed he kept them for some time at bay, & made his Comrade run before him with the idea of afford- ing him all the protection in his power, in this manner they had nearly reachd the Boat, when they perceivd the Natives forming a strong group on the Beach to cut off their retreat. This Franklin proposed to / cut through, having first encour- agd his companion to follow his example & keep close to him, he rushd boldly on & succeeded, but his Comrade fell, as also did three or four of the Indians by the blows which this resolute & honest fellow was obligd to bestow in his own defence. As soon as he gaind the Boat the Indians instantly retird & left the Beach clear.—His own safety was out of the question, to rescue his Officers who were then at the mercy of the Natives occupied this honest Tars whole attention, for this purpose he instantly snatchd up one of the Muskets & desird any one of the Boats Crew to follow him with the other; such an example of fortitude would make the most despicable Coward brave—they all offerd to accompany him but Franklin suggested the necessity of four remaining with the two Musketoons to guard the Boat & secure their retreat in case they succeeded in rescuing the Officers. This was agreed to, & Franklin with another man armed with the two Muskets proceeded to the place where he last saw the Portu- guese & where they found him dead stripped naked & stabbed in the breast with his head much bruised—They afterwards went to an eminence where at a considerable distance they perceivd Mr. Hergist & Mr. Gooch surrounded by a large group of the Natives walking towards some Huts—They haild them to return to the Boat; but they either did not hear, or hearing, had not the power of return- ing, for after they enterd among / the Huts they were seen no more.—It was then about sun set & the two Men durst not proceed further with such weak force——They waited some time & finding no hopes of the Gentlemens returning to the Boat, they thought it most prudent to go on board with the melancholy tidings to procure more assistance. 9 IIo 1792. Aug. 28th. Menzies Journal. Nootka. The Natives gathering fast about them prevented their carrying off the Body of their unfortunate companion— They had sufficient opportunity of revenging his death, but prudence suggested to them the forlorn situation of their helpless Officers, which if alive might only tend to hurry their destruction, for they plainly saw by their audacious behavious shouting & hallowing that the Natives were ready for any mischief. Franklin’s recital of the transactions on shore created much alarm on board, where it seems no look out had been kept to send them any assistance—An attack was now expected to be made on the Ship in the night by the Natives in their Canoes, which in a state of irresolution hurry & confusion induced them to cut the Cable & stand out to Sea. At this sight what must have been the feelings of the two unfortunate Gentlemen on shore surrounded by armed auda- cious Savages ready to execute their inexorable cruelties. Next morning Mr. Neil the first Mate was sent on shore with the Cutter manned & armed & an Indian that remaind on board all night who landed to enquire after the Gentlemen, he soon after returnd with the melancholy information of their being both murderd / on the preceeding evening & that their Bodies were cut up & divided amongst the Chiefs. This account so exasperated the Boats Crew that they expended all their ammunition firing amongst the Natives, one of them in a frenzy of defiance kept waving a Hat & Shirt in his hand which they supposd belongd to either of the Gentlemen & he was fired at several times before he fell— Such is the account of this event from the general informa- tion of the Officers & Crew of the Doedalus. After dinner I accompanied Capt Vancouver with some of the Officers to pay our respects to Don Quadra Governor & Commandant of the Settlement. We found him on shore at a decent house two story high, built of Planks with a Balcony in the front of the Upper Story after the manner of the Spanish Houses, One end of the ground floor was occupied as a Guard Room, & the other as a Kitchen & Servants’ Hall, while the Upper Story was divided into small apartments & occupied by the Governor & his Officers, who were separated by a large Hall in the middle where they commonly dined. On our landing the Guard was turned out in honor to Capt Vancouver, & the Governor & his Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. Ill Officers receivd us at the door, & conducted us with great | 1792. attention & civility up Stairs to the Great Hall. Here we should have been much at a loss for conversation as none of us could speak the Spanish language, had this deficiency not been amply supplied by a Mr. Tho* Dobson a Gentlemen who came / out as one of the Mates of the Doedalus, & who could speak the Spanish Language fluently & on this occasion was so obliging as to act as our Interpreter. After some general conversation concerning our Voyage & the route we had hitherto pursued, the Governor with great frankness offerd us every refreshment & accommodation which the Settlement could afford during our stay at Nootka—He begged that the Commanders & Officers might consider his House as their Home & that the oftener they came to it the more pleasure he should enjoy, & indeed his conduct sufficiently proved that this was by no means a ceremonious invitation, for his table was daily crouded with the Officers of the different Vessels that occasionally visited the Cove, & his Hospitality seemd to have no other bound then the limited sphere of supply to which his present situa- tion confind him. After leaving the Governor’s we took a walk round the place & found several other Houses erected here by the Spaniards as Barracks, Store Houses & an Hospital on the Scite of the Old Village formerly occupied by Maquinna the Chief of the District & his Tribe, there were also several spots fenced in, well cropped with the different European Garden stuffs, which grew here very luxuriantly, particularly in the places formerly occupied by the Habitations of the Natives, which by that means had been well Manured & notwithstanding the advantage & great utility that were thus derived from Horticulture in this Country, it seems not one of the Natives had yet followed so laudable an example, tho’ they were very fond of the productions of these Gardens, especially / the different kinds of Roots when they were brought to the Table, yet they were too indolent to be at the trouble of rearing them. There was a well-stockd poultry yard, & Goats Sheep & Black Cattle were feeding round the Village. Blacksmiths were seen busily engagd in one place & Carpenters in another, so that the different occupations of Building & repairing Vessels & Houses were at once going forward. In short the Spaniards seem to go on here with greater Aug. 28th. Reoccupied and fortified by Spaniards on Apr., 1790. Jewitt found turnips, ete., here in 1803. 112 Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 1792. Aug. 28th. Aug. 29th. Mr. Wetherell in Meany’s ** New Vancou- ver Journal,’’ p. 18 activity & industry than we are led to believe of them at any of their other remote infant Settlements. The situation of the Village is upon a rising neck of Land with Friendly Cove & the Shipping right before it, & behind it a high Beach washd by the rude Surges of the open Ocean & along the Verge of its Bank a pleasing path was frmnd for walking where the mind could contemplate at ease the fretted wildness of the briny element foaming against Rocks & Shores without feeling the force of its fury—while on the other side huge Mountains presented themselves coverd to their very summits with a continued forest of stately Pines whose dark verdurous hue diffused a solitary gloom—favorable to meditations. Next morning Don Quadra visited the Discovery with some of his Officers & breakfasted with Capt Vancouver— He was received with a Guard under Arms & saluted with thirteen Guns on his coming on Board & as many on his leaving the Ship. He afterwards visited the Chatham where the same compliments were paid him, & the two Commanders with as / many of the Officers as could be spared from the duty of the Vessels dined with him afterwards on Shore at a very sumptuous entertainment, & the first toast he gave after dinner was the Sovereigns of England & Spain which was drank under the discharge of a Royal Salute of 21 Guns from the Vessel which bore his broad pendant in the Cove— In short the evening was spent with that unreserved con- viviality that made us forget we were strangers, in the mutual pleasure which each individual seemd to enjoy. Here we met with a Capt Weatherhead lately Com- mander of the Matilda one of the Botany Bay Transports who left England about the same time we did, & having deliverd his Cargo at Port Jackson in New South Wales, he left that place to proceed on the Southern Whale Fishery, & on his way touchd at Otaheite to refresh his people, but about six days after leaving that place he lost his Ship on a rocky Shoal in about the Latitude of 22° South & the Longi- tude of 13814 West, he was however enabled to save all his people & brought them in the Boats to Otaheite, & when they landed in this manner without their Vessel, the Natives of Matavai plunderd them of every thing they had, which so incensed the Royal Family that with the people of Oparre, they made a descent on Matavai, routed all the Inhabitants Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 113 to the Mountains and demolishd with ruin & destruction the 1792. fertile plains of that district. And what rendered these civil AE RY commotions still more distressing, many of the ill disposed of Capt Weatherhead’s Crew had taken the part of the / Matavaians & fled with them to the Mountains, so that they threatened Oparre with destruction in return. Capt Weatherhead himself & a few of his people lived under the protection of the Royal Family at Oparre where they were very hospitably treated till the Jenny, a small Vessel from Bristol touchd there some time after for refreshment on her way to this Coast, on the Fur Trade, & brought Capt Weatherhead & two or three of his People to this Port, the rest of his men staid at Otaheite with the Natives, a party of whom intended to fit out a Whale Boat they had, with such provisions as the Island afforded, & undertake the hazardous Voyage of returning to Botany Bay. No sooner was Cap' Weatherhead’s situation made | Quadra’s known to Don Quadra than he immediately took him under Pena his own protection, & with that disinterested humanity which formd a striking trait in his character, he offerd to forward his passage home across the Continent by the way of Mexico, which he afterwards did by carrying him in his own Vessel to Monterrey in California & from thence he sent a Vessel with him to S® Blas with recommendatory letters to provide for his journey from thence across at the different places he might touch at, & at parting he urged him to accept of a purse of two hundred Dollars for his own pocket. Such acts of generosity are seldom to be met with & as they redound so much to the credit of this worthy man it gives me much pleasure to relate them in this page. In our walk yesterday a spot near / the Beach behind the Village was pitchd upon as the best situation for the Observatory, which this day was landed with the Astro- nomical Instruments & erected together with a Markee & large Tent for the Attendants. The Watches & Time keepers were afterwards landed to ascertain their rate of gaining by equal altitudes under the direction of Mr. Whidbey Master of the Discovery. And next day with the assistance of the Spanish Caulkers & some from the Merchants Ships in the Cove they began to give the Discovery a thorough Caulking. (Half a page is here blank in the original MS.) I14 Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 1792. Sept. Ist. Lieutenant Hergist of Vancouver, etc. Ingraham and others were wrong in stat- ing that the Spaniards were the first to complete the circumnavyi- gation of V.!I. The Spaniards themselves never made the claim and their journals show that they were far behind Vancouver’s boats and ships. Tahsis of the charts. Hannapa of Meares, Voy., 109, 229, 254. / The first of September in consequence of the death of Mr. Hargist, Lieutenant Hanson of the Chatham was appointed to fill up his place as Naval Agent on board the Doedalus & Mr. James Johnstone Master of the Chatham was promoted to fill the Vacancy. The Chatham having been previously prepared was with the preceeding night’s Tide which rose about ten feet hauled on the Beach to view her bottom after the heavy thumping she sustaind on the Rocks in Queen Charlotte’s Sound.—At low water they saw her Keel—the false one was broke in two places & several pieces of Copper were knockd off the bottom, but the greatest damage was the foot of the Stear being a good deal shatterd & most of the gripe at the scarf- ing to the Keel broke off. To repair these damages it was necessary to haul the Vessel on Blocks, but before that could be done she must be lightened by starting the Water & land- ing her Stores & Provisions which was immediately set about. About noon the two small Spanish Vessels which we left behind in July last in Desolation Sound arrivd in the Cove—they staid only one night & saild next morning for Mexico, we had the pleasure however of finding our friends all well after circumnavigating the great Island, for they followd us through Johnstone’s Streights & came out to Sea at Queen Charlotte’s Sound, & keeping close in with Cape Scott, they came through an / inner passage between that & Scotts Islands. We were not long in the Sound when we were visited by Maquinna the Chief of the District together with his Brother & Families, who came on hearing of our arrival from the back part of the Sound where they had taken up their winter residence about ten leagues off. At Hanapa, a Chief mentioned in Mears’s Voyage, also paid us a Visit, together with his Son who had through his intercourse with the English Traders acquird a smattering knowledge of the English Language, & pronouncd & under- stood a number of words very distinctly; indeed he seemd to have a quick & ready comprehension in acquirements of this kind, as evinced from the stay the Spaniards made in the Sound he was equally conversant in their language, & was remarkably pertinent in his enquiries about the state of friendship which now subsisted between the two Nations Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 115 after the quarrel which he had lately beheld between them in this Port. The Chiefs too were very inquisitive on this point as they had an idea we were come to take revenge of the Spaniards for their late conduct & were anxious in obtaining information privately from both parties. We were likewise visited by another aged Chief named Floopannanoo, whose Tribe occupied one of the North west branches of the Sound, & who Joind to a Countenance truly Savage, a most amiable & friendly disposition as appeard from every account we had of his conduct. Both he & Hannapa seemd to be dependants of Magquinna, or at least cooperated / with him in all his measures. After paying this ceremonial visit & receiving the accus- tomd presents, which is always expected when a Vessel arrives in the Sound, most of the Chiefs went home to their own residences, & the principal duty now going forward was removing the Stores from the Transport to the two Vessels for which they were intended, & for which the weather remaind hitherto remarkably pleasant & favorable. Don Quadra whose benevolent mind seemd wholly occu- pied in contributing to our entertainments & amusements, now proposed as the Weather was favorable to take a jaunt up the Sound to visit the Chief of Nootka at his own habi- tation, that he might have the pleasure of recommending the English Commanders & their Officers to the particular notice of the Chief & his Tribe, & thereby do away any alarm they might preposess about our quarreling, by con- vincing them of the friendship that subsisted between the two Nations, & likewise as the place was so soon to be given up to the English, he wishd for their own happiness to do away any bias they might have formed in favor of the Spaniards from their residing so long amongst them. A proposal so humane & friendly met with a general concur- rence. In consequence of which a Messenger was sent to Maquinna to acquaint him that S" Quadra, Captain Vancouver & Mr. Broughton with a party of the Officers proposd to visit him next day at Tashees which was / the name of his Village where he at this time resided. On the morning of the 4th two Boats from the Dis- covery, one from the Chatham & a large Spanish Launch were equipped for this excursion, & set out with a large party pretty early. The Discovery’s Pinnace, being the most 1792. Sept. 1st. Thupananutl of Mozino, Noticias, 65. At the head of the western arm of Nootka Sd. Sept. 4th. 116 Menzies Journal. Nootka. 1792. commodious Boat, S™ Quadra with some of his Officers Metts embarkd in her along with Capt Vancouver, & the rest of the party divided themselves in the other Boats. We then pulled along the western shore of the Sound, which in an eminent degree posessd the general dreary rocky aspect of the Country, & was every where coverd with a forest of Pines down to the Waters edge. We did not go above two Leagues when we put on shore to breakfast at a small Baki inal| of harbour called Maweena, & soon after setting out again we Marvinas Bay |enterd a considerable branch leading to the North West AST Ward & winding inland by a deep Valley between very high steep mountains. The Water was smooth & the day was uncommonly favorable for our excursion, we therefore proceeded at an easy rate, with drums beating & Fifes play- ing to the no small entertainment of the Natives, as it gave a martial solemnity to our Visit, highly gratifying to their feelings in thus imitating their own customs on similar occa- sions, for in their friendly Visits their approach is always announced by vociferous songs & plaintive airs. The afternoon was well advanced before / we reachd in sight of the Village of Tashees which we found situated in a retired situation near the head of the Arm, & on account of being so late, it was agreed not to make our Public Entry till next day. The whole party therefore brought to & encamped for the night in a fine Meadow delightfully skirt- ing a small Bay a little short of the Village, but while the Tents were pitching & dinner getting ready, a party of the Officers walkd along the Beach & paid their respects to the Chief at his own House in a short visit, which he & several of his Attendants returnd by coming to the Encampment to dine with us. In the evening our curiosity was excited in observing a number of Females busily occupied in digging up a part of the Meadow close to us with Sticks, with as much care & assiduity as if it had been a Potato field, in search of a small wild clover | C?¢ePing root about the size of a pack thread. This I found een 114) £0) be the Roots ofa new species of Trifolium which they always dig up at this time of the year for food. After washing it clean they mix it with a quantity of Oil & eat a portion of it raw with their Fish or Animal food in the same manner as we do Sallad. Wherever this Trifolium abounds the ground is regularly turnd over in quest of its Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 117 Roots every year, though till this moment we ascribed such digging to their searching after the Sarane or Roots of Lilium Camschatcensa which we knew they collect & use as food here / & on other parts of the Coast. The novelty of our Encampment inducd a number of the Natives to flock round us, but they behavd very quiet & peaceably, & in the dusk of the evening very orderly retired to their own habitations, leaving us to spend the evening with our new friends in social hilarity & mirth. After breakfast next morning we all embarkd in the Boats & made a kind of martial parade with our little musical Band before the Village of Tashees, where we landed amidst the noisy acclamations of the Natives. Maquinna together with his Brother & Attendants received us on the Beach, & we were conducted to the Chief’s House which was large & spacious & occupied by himself, his Brother & other families of distinction. Here we found the Women decently seated on Mats spread on little risings on each side of the House & Benches were placed at one end coverd over with rich Furs & clean Mats for the party to set down on. We first advanced to the Royal Mat to pay our respects to the Chiefs Wives & Daughter, the latter was a young Girl about thirteen years of age named Apinnas, who the Spaniards informd us had been lately recognizd & inaugurated in a most pompous & solemn manner by the whole Tribe as the Sucessor of her Father. When the Natives were assembled on this occasion, a Throne was erected on which the young Princess was seated by her Father, & from thence Copper Iron Beads &c. & every other / article of any value the Chief posessed was thrown down & scatterd in the most profuse manner amongst the people, who scrambled for it & expressed their approbation by continual plaudits. After this ceremony they continued their rejoicing by feasting singing & dancing for some days, till the Chief with respect to riches was brought almost upon a level with the poorest of his Tribe. On turning to those seated on the other side of the house I instantly recognizd in the Wife of Maquinna’s Brother an old acquaintance the daughter of an elderly Chief who had a numerous family & lived in the North East corner of the Sound & to whose friendship I owed much civility & kindness when I was here about five years ago. 1792. Sept. 4th. Saranne (Fritillaria camtchatcen- sis). See Appendix. Sept. 5th. Apenas of Spaniards. For her puberty ceremony at Copti (Cooptee of Jewitt) see Sutil y Mexicana, Voy., 142-5, and Mozino, Noticias, 28-30. The scene at Copti is illustrated by Plate 10 in the Atlas of the Voyage of the Sutil and Mexicana. ints) Menzies’ Journal. Nootea. 1792. She & her Sisters were then very young, yet they frequently Sana shewed so much solicitude for my safety, that they often warned me in the most earnest manner of the dangers to which my Botanical rambles in the Woods exposed me, & when they found me inattentive to their entreaties, they would then watch the avenue of the Forest where I enterd, to prevent my receiving any insult or ill usage from their Countrymen. But it was not till after I left them that I became sensible how much I owed to their disinterested zeal for my welfare by knowing more of the treacheries & stratagems of the Natives on other parts of the Coast.—I emptied my pockets of all the little Trinkets they containd in her lap & begged her to come on board the Vessel with her Father who she told me was still / alive, that I might have an opportunity of renewing our friendship by some gratifying present. As soon as the Party was seated S™ Quadra explaind to the Chief the purport of our visit & with a disinterested zeal which markd his benign character he said every thing in recommending Capt Vancouver Mr. Broughton together with their Officers & the English Nation in general to his kind attention & to a friendly intercourse with all his tribe; he assurd him of the friendship & good understanding which subsisted between the English & Spaniards, & that the latter were only to quit his Territories by a mutual agreement between the two Nations, but that they would ever continue steadily their friendship & respect for him and his Tribe. The Chief assented, but expressed his sincere regret at the prospect of losing so soon S™ Quadra to whom he seemd attached by the most sacred ties of friendship. The object of our visit being thus introduced Capt Vancouver & Mr. Broughton made presents to Maquinna & his Brother together with their Wives & Apinnas the Heiress apparent, consisting of Sheet Copper, Blue Cloth, Blankets, Beads & a number of other ornamental articles which were receivd with satisfaction & the Chief in return presented some rich Furs. During this time a number of the Natives were equip- ping themselves in the adjacent houses, & now assembled at the Chiefs door in a group of the most grotesque figures that can possibly be imagined, dressed, armed, / & masked in imitation of various characters of different Countries, Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 119 some represented Europeans armed with Muskets & Bay- | 1792. F . Sept. 5th. onets, others were dressed as Chinese & others as Sandwish Islanders armed with Clubs & Spears ; the rest were equipped either as Warriors or Hunters of their own Nation. After a party of them armed with long Spears entered & were drawn up at the further end of the House, the Actors came in one at a time & traversed the Area before us, with the most antic gestures. If a Warrior he shewd the different evolutions of attacking an enemy, sometimes crouching down, sometimes retreating, at other times advancing with firm steps & eyes steadily fixed on the Commanders who were seated in the middle of our group, & to whom all their feigned aims & motions were directed, sometimes with much pointed archness as to occasion some alarm of their intentions being real. The Hunters equipped with various marks & implements, shewd all the wiles & stratagems usual in taking or chasing of different Animals as Deers Bears &c. While those armed with Muskets represented Sentinels or went through various motions of the manual exercise. And those representing the Sandwich Islanders traversed the Area in the different attitudes of wielding their Clubs or darting their Spears, & as each finishd his part he retreated back & took his station among the masked group at the further end of the house. Maquinna who sat along side of us / during the first part of this entertainment now stole away as if going to give some orders at the further end of the house. He instantly masked himself behind the group & enterd the Area capering & dancing with great agility, which he performd much to the satisfaction of the whole group, who testified their approbation by repeated & universal plaudits. The Natives had hardly finished when Capt Vancouver anxious to shew them a specimen of our English capering, got some of the Sailors to dance a Reel or two to the Fife. Soon after this, our dinner which was Cooking on the outside of the house was announcd to be ready. Maquinna orderd a large Plank to be brought in, which he very dex- terously formd into a Table in the middle of the House sufficiently large for the whole party, with lesser Planks extended on each side for Seats & every thing else that could contribute to luxury & comfort was profusely provided by S' Quadra, who had brought along with him on this occasion 120 Menzies Journal. Nootka. 1792. Sept. 5th. Sept. 6th. Sept. 8th. Aranzazu, Lieut. Caamano. not only his Steward Cooks & Culinary Utensils but even his Plate, so that our dinner was served up in a manner that made us forget we were in such a remote corner, under the humble roof of a Nootka Chief —Maquinna his Wives & Daughter, together with other Chiefs sat at the head of the Table, partook / of the Entertainment & joind us in drinking a convivial glass of wine after dinner, while the rest of the Natives entertaind themselves at a Mess not less gratefull to their palate. It consisted of a large Tunny & a Porpus cut up in small pieces entrails & all into a large Trough with a mixture of Water blood & fish Oil, & the whole stewed by throwing heated Stones into it. When thus cooked they seated themselves round the Trough, some with Spoons, other with large Shells, scooping it up & devouring it with relishing appetites. After this we took a walk in a rich Meadow at the head of the Arm, & in the afternoon took leave of our friends & embarking in our Boats, rowed about two Miles back the Arm to a point on the opposite side, where we pitched our Tents & encampd for the night. Next day returnd to Friendly Cove where the whole party din’d on shore with S"™ Quadra. Maquinna & a large concourse of the Natives having arrivd in the Cove on the 6th Capt Vancouver orderd a display of Fireworks to be exhibited on shore in the even- ing before the Governor’s house, which highly entertaind both the Spaniards & Natives, but of all that were exhibited the Water Rockets excited most admiration. The Natives afterwards amused us in the Governor’s house with a Speci- men of their singing dancing & capering till they were per- fectly tired, consisting of such uncouth attitudes & gestures as are not easily described / but which they performed with great glee & good humour till late in the evening & then retired very orderly to rest. On the 8th a Spanish Frigate named Aranzaza Com- manded by Lt Comano arrivd in the Cove from the North- ward where she had been on a surveying expedition, examin- ing the Coast on the inside of Queen Charlotte’s Isles, & opposite the North End of these Isles they enterd a large Inlet going to the North East Ward which they conceivd to Clarence strait} be the Straits of Admiral de Fonte, & traced it as far as of Vancouver (III., 419) who 554° North Latitude, where its capaciousness had so little Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 121 diminished, that there were reasons to conclude from its appearance that it must penetrate a considerable way inland, but the unfavorableness of the weather prevented their pur- suing it further. Mr. Alexander Cranstoun Surgeon of the Discovery & Mr. House Boatswain being invalided on account of ill state of health, were both on the 9th discharged into the Doedalus Store Ship to take their passage to England by the way of Port Jackson together with Mr. Philips Carpenter who was sent home by the same conveyance under Arrest. In conse- quence of which the following changes & appointments took place. Mr. Bray Carpenter of the Chatham & Mr. Noot Boatswain were removd into the Discovery, & Messrs. Laithwood & Philiskirk from the Discovery were appointed to fill the vacancies on board the Chatham / & as Cap? Vancouver did not conceive himself warrantable to make a new Surgeon to fill up the vacancy on board the Discovery while I was on the spot, he solicited me to take charge of the Surgeon’s duty, as the success of our expedition so much depended on the health & welfare of the Ship’s Company, which he could more confidently entrust to my care, & this he urged with a degree of earnestness that I could not well refuse, especially as he requested at the same time that in case of my not accepting of it, to state my having refused it in writing, & as I did not know how far this might operate against my interest at the Navy Office, I with considerable hesitation accepted of the appointment, on Capt Vancouver’s promising me that he would take care it should not interfere with my other pursuits, more than the real exigences of the service required, & as I had done the Surgeon’s duty in the most critical situation since we left the Cape of Good Hope, & constantly prescribed for Capt Vancouver himself since we left England on account of Mr. Cranstoun’s ill state of health, I conceivd the difference of now attending the duty wholly would be very little specially as there were two assistant Surgeons on board & the Ship in general healthy. Nothing particular happened for the few following days, the Boatswain & Carpenter’s Stores were surveyed on board / of both Vessels, & the Surgeon’s Stores & Medi- cines on board the Discovery. The weather which had been remarkably fine & pleasant since our arrival, set in on the 12th with the Wind from the South East Quarter accom- 1792. Sept. 8th. (III., 380, 381) refers to Caamano’s chart and his ‘* supposed straits of De Font.”’ 122 Menzies Journal. Nootka. 1792. Sept. 8th. Ingraham. Arrived at Nootka at midnight, Sept. 10th. (Ingr. Jnl. of Hope.) Sept. 15th. This murder is mentioned also in the Voy. of Sutil y Mexicana, pp. 148-151; by Ingraham, l.e. ; Mozino, Noticias, p. 45. The Nootka chiefs attributed it to a native of the neighbouring tribe at Hesquiat. (Hashcoat of Ingraham.) * Transcription note.—‘‘Alter- ation in pencil in the MS.’’ Fenis and St. Joseph under command of Andrede, with Duffin as supercargo according to Vanc., I., 402. panied with fog & rain. About this time two Trading Vessels arrived in the Cove, the one was an American Brig named the Hope Commanded by Mr. Ingram & the other a Sloop named the Jackall from London Commanded by Mr. Stewart, both employed in collecting Furs on the Coast. On the 15th a Boy belonging to one of the Spanish Vessels who had been missing some days was found murderd in the Woods at a little distance from the inner point of the Cove, he was brought to the Village where I had an oppor- tunity of inspecting his Body, & found that his throat & the right side of his neck had been cut & mangled in a dreadfull manner; there were some deep gashes on the inside of his thighs, & apparently a small piece cut out of the Calf of *con each Leg, though it is probable that the extraction of the strong Muscles composing that part might occasion the Vacuity. This would be of very little consequence had it not been afterwards urged as a proof that the Natives who were supposed to be the Murderers were Cannibals & cut out these pieces for the purpose of eating them. For some days after nothing of import occurred except- ing two more Vessels arriving in the Cove, one was a Brig under Portuguese Colours named the Fenis from Macao Commanded by Mr. Robert Duffin, who was formerly on this Coast with Mr. Mears & was Chief Mate of the / Argonaut, at the time she was seized by the Spaniards in this Port. The other Vessel was the Margaret an American Ship from Boston commanded by Mr. McGee, both these Vessels were employd in collecting Furs on the Coast. Soon after our arrival a correspondence commenced between S™ Quadra & Capt Vancouver relative to the deliver- ing up of the Port of Nootka to us by the Spaniards, agree- able to the articles of the late Convention between the two Nations. The former declard himself empowerd by the Court of Spain to enter into a general discussion on this subject, in order to ascertain our claims on this Coast, & settle the line of demarcation. But the latter having no powers to act in this way, nor any other instructions than merely to receive the place when it was given up to him, could not enter into any discussion. Early however in the course of this correspondence Capt Vancouver so far understood that the place was to be Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 123 delivered up to us, that he made the necessary arrangements | 1792. for retaining posession of it. The Store Ship had landed mah Tea the greatest part of her Cargo into Store houses, & the Chatham was to be left behind for the Winter in charge of it & the Settlement. Even the mode of putting us in poses- sion of the Territory was agreed upon, for it was said that S' Quadra was to deliver up all the Houses Gardens &c as they stood, agreeable to his orders & the wishes of his / Catholic Majesty, & that before he went away he was to haul down the Spanish Colours on the Fort & on our hoist- ing the English Colours, he was then to salute the British Flag.—But having now explaind himself more fully on this subject he declard that he did not conceive himself author- izd from the information he obtaind from the Traders on the Coast, to give up any more than the small corner of the Cove occupied by Mr. Mears in building his Vessel, which was not above a hundred yards wide in any direction, & which he conceivd would fulfill the tenor of the Convention. He was willing likewise to leave us the use of the Houses & Gardens until the pleasure of his Court should be known. But Captain Vancouver who was not impowered to enter into any discussion could not accept of the place on these limited conditions, & the correspondence broke up, both parties agreeing to referr the business to the two Courts at home. Soon after coming to this determination S™ Quadra early on the 224 of Sep" sailed in the Brig Activa for Cali- | Sept. 22na. fornia to forward his dispatches parting with us in the most friendly manner, & on his way to the Southward he touchd at the entrance of De Fuca’s Straits & evacuated the Settle- | Nunez Gaona, ment which had been established there but a few months | fey. re before, sending from thence Lt Fidalgo with the Ship Princessa to relieve Lt Camano & remain at Nootka with the Troops in charge of the Settlement for the Winter. / Our plan being thus deranged we necessarily remaind behind sometime to finish our repairs & take on board of both Vessels as much of the Stores Provision & articles of trafic as they could well stow to supply their immediate wants, the rest were all returnd on board the Store Ship who was to proceed with them to Port Jackson New South Wales, & from thence return to us here next Summer with such Stores &c as that Settlement could spare to supply our wants. 124 Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 1792. On the same day which S* Quadra sailed the Ship Sept. 220 | Columbia of Boston commanded by Mr. Gray with a small Sloop her Consort which was built on the Coast last Winter called the Adventure arrived in the Cove where they remaind all night & sailed early the following morning with a Cargo of Furs collected on the Coast for China. There were at this time ten Vessels riding at Anchor in this small Cove, besides two small ones building on shore, which had been brought out in frame, one by the Ship Margaret of Boston & the other by the Three Brothers of London; & this perhaps was the greatest number of Vessels hitherto collected together in this Sound at any one period, but the number which visited this Coast in the course of the Summer has been far greater, as may be seen by the follow- ing account of them which I receivd soon after our arrival here. Compare with / A List oF VESSELS ON THE N.W. COAST OF tg ead AMERICA IN THE YEAR 1702. Vancouver, Voy. IlI., 498. English PE iscomenyyieceu Let e ne 2 Ne . Vancouver PEM perry Ciatnamt 2 yal hye oT ,, Broughton prt Uc dates 22 ee ET ae 4» New—London Ship Birthenwortinyc 22k eh » Brown London SIOGp ack all yeaa Wie aso 2! 3 [OLE WALL) ee Sloop) Prince ee bog. eo ary es) sb a0) a Aifer was in | Brio Three Brothers 21) 2.2. js euler, 55 command, ; TA Vane., 1.¢. Schooner Prince; W™ lenny) 9-< ye ,, Ewens -s Sr ret Penny, SCORER | okt n laser ya , Baker—Bristol Barkley, and pat titctheyanity nek oe ld AR a » Barclay—Bengal given by Diane with ” IVES tie cere) Eve cee a, ” Shepherd ” his sketch of oy tape 25) 610 NMR AMisatiady So SPelCMINR ie SL Bhs hE a ., Moore a nish’s Harbour,’’ d i 1787. Spanish H.C.M. Vessels Moore i commanded the : . * Phoenia. Lt. Gertrude Ship PUNE eS vad eeu awe —— Mexico Torres com- Princesse | Ship) Ys out ae ae ed , Fidalgo a manded the E Santa Asranizaza:: Sivpy | ite Gal A No a ,, Comano a Gertrudis. : : Ascnenen, | |) (eM bN a) Brig 2: os ke es. , Menendez ,, Lieut. Bri outa: age aa Pa bia 2 $4 20 , Galeano is Caamano. ’ Schooner iM exicaria tac ee Ne ,, Waldes ” Menzies’ Journal. Portuguese TL DEAE AG eae RRP oP ,, Duffin—Macao AIS ESSER Re ep ae oe Ue fr Cole— is ere Felice Aventura ........-...-----2... Vicana— ,, Ship Columbia Gray—Boston MMM PRCVCNUOUITE ©... 6... 5 easiness , Haswell— ,, Bem eraredret 105. oli la ,, Magee— ,, BRAUN Lc ee ly ,, Ingram—f™ China Bimmer RLCLSON) cic esas ,, Roberts— __,, GE ISS ESAs hoe LE ,, Crowel— +f Brig Lady Washington Kendrick— __,, Ship La Flavie France Colours Unknown Schooner Grace Coolidge—China (Half a page is here blank in the original MS.) / The 239 & three following days we had fair pleasant weather but cloudy with a moderate breeze of wind. A party from both Vessels were employd in reloading the Store-Ship, & others in watering from a small Cove on the Western side about two Miles up the Sound, as there was no water to be got nearer to us except in wet or rainy weather on which account the Spaniards were obliged to dig pretty deep draw wells to supply their wants at the Village. On the 27th very strong gales set in from the South- ward & Southeast quarter accompanied with thick gloomy weather & almost incessant heavy rain, so that we had very boisterous & unsettled weather for the remainder of this month. In the evening of the 28th one of the Chatham’s Cables parted in the nip of the clinch in a violent squall & in swing- ing round to the other Anchor she took the ground on the North West side of the Cove but was soon hove off again by the other Cable without having received any apparent injury. It was supposd that the drip at the House had rotted that part of the Cable where it gave way, as our operations requird its being kept constantly bent for some 10 Nootka. 125 1792. Sept. 22nd. Fenis and St. Joseph, Andrede in command. Vane., le. The Florinda was Cole’s ship. Bancroft, Hist. N.W. Coast, I., 266. Also reported by Ingraham and Haswell. Viana commanding. La Flavie, Magon in command. Met at Nootka by Galiano and reported to be of 500 tons and flying the new French flag. The Grace was an American ship from New York. Sept. 23rd. Sept. 27th. Sept. 28th. 126 Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. time past both at Sea & during our interior navigation. After this Squall the wind became more moderate with inces- sant rain all night. The weather continued somewhat moderate for the two following days with a good deal of rain especially in the forenoon. On the / afternoon of the latter the wind shifted to the North West & was followd by fair clear pleasant Weather. By the late heavy Rains different streams emptied themselves into the Cove from which we were enabled to water the Vessels more commodiously. Oct. 1st. Early on the tst of October the Fenis Brig saild for Macao & in her Mr. Mudge first Lieutenant of the Dis- covery went home with dispatches for Government by the way of China, this occasiond a Vacancy which Mr. Swain who had been lately made Master of the Chatham was appointed to fill & he was succeeded in the Chatham by Mr. Manley. By Mr. Mudge I sent home a collection of Seeds adressd to Sir Jos: Banks Bt for his Majesty’s Garden & which I was afterwards happy to find that Mr. Mudge had taken great care in their preservation, by which some valu- able Plants were added to the great collection at Kew William Aiton, | through the uncommon skill & industry of Mr. Acton in Pei Garden’ fearing: them. alaaitad Saild likewise the Jackall in the forenoon to collect Furs patone, the Coast, & in the afternoon two Vessels were seen | off the entrance of the Sound, some Boats went out to assist lthem in, but the breeze died away that they were obligd to Oct. 2nd. ‘come to in the Offing for the night. Next day they both ‘came into the Cove, one was a Spanish Frigate called the nes / commanded by Lt Fidalgo who had been sta- At Neeah Bay.| tiond for some months past at the entrance of the Straits of De Fuca, establishing a Settlement there, but which they now entirely relinquishd probably from the unexpected turn which the late Negociation about Nootka had taken, & had they given up Nootka, it is not at all unlikely but their inten- tion was to establish themselves at the entrance of De Fuca by removing every thing from hence to that Settlement. The other Vessel was the American Brig Hope they parted with S Quadra at De Fuca’s Straits in company with Mr. Gray Commander of the Columbia who had followd him there in order to dispose of his small Vessel before he 1792. Sept. 28th. Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 127 left the Coast. The above Spanish Frigate proved to be the very same Vessel which Martinez had when he capturd the English Vessels under the Command of Mr. Colonet in this Port. Before Lt Camano gave up his Command he this day gave a very elegant entertainment to his successor & a large party of the Spanish & English Officers at his House on Shore. Maquinna & his Brother Wagh-elas-opulth visited the Cove this day together with another young Chief named Nannacoos who was a very great favourite with S™ Quadra & all his Officers, & they were very much hurt indeed at not being receivd as usual at the Governor’s house,—for while St Fidalgo was station’d at De Fuca’s entrance his Pilot strolled one day into the Woods & was murderd in a most shocking manner / by the Natives,* in consequence of which S' Fidalgo was resolved to keep the Chiefs & all the rest of the Natives at due distance & not suffer any of them to approach the Settlement without being minutely watched. The Nootka Chief could not bear the idea of suspicion & left the Cove in a huff.—Seven head of black Cattle & a number of Sheep Hogs & Poultry were landed from the Princessa for winter Stock for the Settlement. Mr. Ingram on coming into the Cove saluted the Fort with nine Guns, which compliments was returnd with five, & on Lt Comano visiting his Vessel next day, he compli- mented him also with nine Guns. In short saluting was so common among the Trading Vessels that visited the Cove that there was scarcely a day past without puffings of this kind from some Vessel or other, & we too followed the example, & puffed it away as well as any of them, till at last we were become so scarce of ammunition to defend ourselves from the treacherous Indians, that we were obligd to get supplies of Powder from both the Spaniards & Traders before we left the Coast. The Commanders of the two Spanish Vessels & a number of their Officers din’d on board the Discovery with Capt Vancouver on the 34 & on this occasion S* Fidalgo was * who were afterwards seen rejoicing in their Savage Cruel- ties by placing part of his remains on a stick & dancing round it in a Ring. 1792. Oct. 2nd. Refers to Nootka incident of 1789, when Colnett was made prisoner. Wahelaasaplil- the of Ingraham, Aug. 3rd, 1792. Nanaquius of Mozino in Voy. of Sut. and Mexic., 151, and Notic., 65. Oct. 3rd. Ingraham was also invited. (Hope’s Journal for Same date.) 128 Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 1792. Oct. 3rd. For biographical note see Appendix. Atanasio Echeverria. Malaspina was at Nootka from Aug. 13th to 28th, 1791. Oct. 5th and 6th. receivd as Commandant, by a Guard & a salute of / eleven Guns; & after dinner was over the health of the Sovereigns of Spain & England were drank under the discharge of 21 Guns. The Aranzaza Frigate was at this time unmooring in order to leave the Port & follow S™ Quadra to California, so that we took leave of our friends S™ Cormano & his Officers when they left the Discovery in the evening & they went away in the course of the night. There were two Botanists attachd to the Spanish Squadron who visited the Coast this Summer, one of them had been in the Aranzaza to the Northward & had made a considerable Collection of Plants from the different places they touched at, the other whose name was Don José Mozino remaind at Nootka with S™ Quadra together with an excel- lent draughtsman S" Escheverea a Native of Mexico, who as a Natural History Painter had great merit. These told me that they were part of a Society of Naturalists who were employd of late years in examining Mexico & New Spain for the purpose of collecting Materials for a Flora Mexicana which they said would soon be publishd, & with the assis- tance of so good an Artist it must be a valuable acquisition. St Malaspini who has been some time out on Discoveries with two Vessels under his Command they all agree is a very able Navigator & fitted out in the most ample manner for Discoveries with Astronomers Naturalists Draughtsmen &c.—He has already examined the Shores of South America & this Coast / & is now surveying the Philipine Islands.— He is to return by Peru & Chili round Cape Horn, to publish the result of his enquiries: So that the Spaniards mean to shake off now entirely that odium of indolence & secrecy with which they have been long accused. On the 5th & 6th the Markee Tents & Observatory were struck & brought on board, together with the Astronomical Instruments, & preparations were now making for leaving the Port with the first fair wind. The Jenny Schooner of Bristol Commanded by Mr. Baker arrivd in the Cove from a Trading Cruize along the Coast—This Vessel touchd at Otaheite & the Sandwich Islands on her way to this Coast, & from the latter place they brought away with them two women, who were still on board, though some of the Ameri- can Traders were so malevolent as to report to us that they had been disposd of on the Coast as slaves. Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 129 For the four following days the weather was very }1792. unsettled thick & hazy with the Wind from the South East | 6t». quarter, blowing at times pretty fresh, & accompanied with a good deal of rain. On the 8th a large party of the Officers of both Vessels din’d on shore with S* Fidalgo. On Land- ing Capt Vancouver was saluted & a Guard turned out to receive him, & the day following S" Fidalgo visited the Dis- covery & had the same compliments paid to him on his coming on board & going away. On the roth the Ship Buttersworth of London with her | oct. 10tn. Consort the Jackall arrivd in the Cove / these together with the Prince Lee Boo were under the direction Mr. Brown Commander of the Buttersworth & were the only English Vessels who had an exclusive Grant from Government for Trading on this Coast. We had Southerly Wind on the 11th with dark gloomy | oct. 11th. weather & much rain. In the forenoon a Schooner arrivd in the Cove namd the Prince William Henry of London who had spent the Summer to the Northward collecting Furs, she was Commanded by Mr. Ewens a Master in the Royal Navy, who as soon as he anchord favord us with a visit on board the Discovery, & told us that he left England about the middle of Dect 1791 & touchd for refreshments at Maderia, Cape Verde Islands & Staten land, then coming round Cape Horn, he touchd at the Sandwich Islands & arrivd at Queen Charlotte’s Island on this Coast the last day in May 1792, making his passage from England to this Coast in five months & a half, which is certainly by far the quickest we have yet heard of by the same route. There were now seven English Vessels, a Spanish Frigate & two American Vessels riding at Anchor in the Cove, besides the two small ones that were building on Shore. The South East Winds which now began to prevail were always boisterous & attended with thick Weather & excessive hard rain with a heavy Swell tumbling into the Sound. The Spanish Officers who winterd here informd us they had experienced / this kind of weather for upwards of two Months without intermission, & that it generally set in about the latter end of October. The Latitude of the Observatory at Friendly Cove was 49° 34’ 20” North, & the Longitude as determined by the 130 Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 1792. Oct. 11th. Oct. 12th. Hog Id. mean result of a great number of angular distances of the Sun & Stars taken on both sides of the Moon was 233° 31’ 30” East of Greenwich, which is nineteen Miles of Longitude more Easterly than assignd to it by Capt Cook’s Obser- vations. (Half a page is here blank in the original MS.) / Early on the morning of the 12th a light breeze set in from the North West & brought on the appearance of settled Weather, the Summits of the inland Mountains were clear, which here indicate a favorable change, in consequence of which we began to unmoor, but this was a business not easily effected, our Cables being so much overlaid by those of other Vessels who had come later into the Cove, & who had been carrying out Anchors in all directions to secure themselves in the late boisterous weather, that we were not able to haul out to the entrance of the Cove from amongst them till late in the evening. When this was accomplished Mr. Whidbey was sent with a Boat to assist in getting out the Store Ship, & on his reporting her ready a little after ten at night, we weighd Anchor & made Sail with a light breeze out of the Sound, but the Chatham in getting under way aiter us was unable to Weather the little Island & got ashore on the Point of it under the Fort, where she was in imminent danger of being dash’d to pieces from the high Surf that broke on the Rocks which happend to be steep, had she not receivd timely assistance from the Store Ship & Spanish Launch by which they were enabled to haul her off / again into deep water without receiving any perceptible damage. As we had Sail’d out we were unacquainted with this accident till the following day. Capt Vancouver & Mr. Broughton waited on S" Fidalgo in the forenoon to pay their respects to him before their departure, & it is but justice to add that he was very obliging & ready in facilitating our operations by every aid in his power, & in the evening he returnd the visit by coming on board the Discovery to take leave of us. It was but natural to feel some reluctance at parting as during our stay at Nootka the Spanish Officers & we lived on the most amicable footing. Our frequent & social meetings at S™ Quadra’s hospitable mansion afforded constant opportunity of testify- ing our mutual regard & friendship for each other, by that Menzies’ Journal. Nootka. 131] harmony & good understanding which always marked our convivial hours. In short even in this distant sequesterd gloomy region we passed our time together chearfully & happy. In the morning I went on shore to the wood to collect the Seeds of several Plants which I had left to ripen on the bushes to the very last moment. The American Ship Margaret & Brig Hope sail’d in the forenoon for China, at the same time the Jenny Schooner went / out Commanded by Mr. Baker whose intentions were to touch on some parts of the Coast to the Southward & then proceed round Cape Horn for England with what Furs he collected in the course of the Summer. But previous to his departure he requested the favor of Capt Vancouver to take the two Women he had on board & carry them to their relations at the Sandwich Islands which was agreed to & in consequence thereof they both came on board the Discovery this morning to take their passage for Oneehow their native Country, one of them was about fourteen years of age named Teheeopea & the other was a few years older named Tahemeeraoo. We were on the morning of the 13th off the entrance | oct. 18th. of Nootka Sound waiting for the Chatham & Doedalus who about eight we perceivd coming out & soon after both joind us. At the same time we saw a Brig standing in for the Sound from the Northward which displayd English Colours & we supposed to be the Three Brothers going in to join her Consort the Prince William Henry. We now shaped our course to the South East Ward with a scanty breeze of Wind which proved very inconstant in its direction. As we were near Point Breakers at noon we had a good opportunity of determining its Latitude which we found to be 49° 24’ North, that is, nine Miles of Latitude more North- erly than it is laid down by Capt Cook, which surely / arose from some accidental error. In the afternoon we had Soundings in ninety fathoms about three leagues off shore. The land about Point Breakers is every where coverd with a Forest of Pines & is very low for several Miles back, it then swells into those huge mountains which form the interior ridge of this great Island & whose summits were now seen in many places coverd with Snow apparently fresh laid during the late stormy weather. 132 Hook., l.c., IL., 125. Ex. Fl., t. 193. M1 TL, | 184; t. 195. Fl. Il., 89. Menzies’ Journal. APPENDIX. PLANTS ‘COLLECTED BY A. MENZIES (ON (irae NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I. FERNS AND FLOWERING PLANTS. Abbreviations— B.M.—Botanical Magazine. (By Curtis, Sims, W. H. Hooker, etc.) B.R.—Botanical Register. (By Edwards, Lindley, etc.) Fl.—Flora Boreali-Americana. 1833-40. (By W. J. Hooker.) Icon. Ined.—Plantarum Icones hactenus Ineditze. 1789-91. (Smith) J. E.) Exot. Fl.—Exotic Flora, etc., 1823-27. (Hooker, W. J.) Names of plants in italics are those used by early writers, but now replaced by others. ABIES GRANDIS Lindl. (White Fir.) Silver Fir of M. Admiralty Inlet, etc. ABRONIA LATIFOLIA Esch. (Sand Verbena.) A. arenaria Menz. “ California.” (Also in Admiralty Inlet—C. F. N.) ACER CIRCINATUM Pursh. (Vine Maple.) “Sugar Maple” of M. Admiralty Inlet, etc. Acer Douctasit Hook. (Mountain Maple.) Admiralty Inlet, ete. ACER MACROPHYLLUM Pursh. (Broadleaf Maple.) “ Sycamore or Great Maple” of M. Port Discovery, etc: ACHLYS TRIPHYLLA (Smith) DC. (May Apple.) ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM L. ( Yarrow.) ACONITUM DELPHINIFoLIUM DC. (Monkshood.) ALLIUM AcUMINATUM Hook. (Wild Onion.) “ Nootka.” ALLIUM RECTICULATUM Fraser. “ Nootka.” (The plant so named by Hooker is prob- ably A. Geyeri Wats.—C. F. N.) ALNUS OREGONA Nutt. (Red Alder.) “American Alder” of Menzies. AMSINCKIA INTERMEDIA Fisch. & Meyer. Ferns and Flowering Plants. 133 Echium Menzstesti Lehmann. ANAPHALIS MARGARITACEA (L.) B. & H. Antennaria marg. (Pearly Everlasting.) ANDROMEDA PouirouiA L. (Marsh Andromeda.) Nepean Sound, B.C. ANDROSACE CHAMAJASME Host. “ Islands of Behring’s Straits.” re...) ANEMONE NARCISSIFLORA L. Anthericum calyculatum. See Tofieldia. Arsutus Menzresit Pursh. (Menzies’ Arbutus.) Port Discovery, Wash. Jl. 117. May 2nd, 1792. “Strawberry Tree” of Menzies, l.c. ARCTOSTAPHYLOS TOMENTOSA (Pursh) Douglas. Arbutus tomentosa Ph. (Manzanita.) (Bearberry.) Probably the “ glaucous arbutus” of the Journal, 1178, at Port Discovery, May, 1792. (Common there.— Coe. Nir) ARENARIA LARICIFOLIA Pursh. ARENARIA VERNA L., “ Columbia.” ArnicA Menziesit Hook. Near A. latifolia Bong., but considered to be distinct by Kurtz, Flor. Chilcatgebietes, 389. 1894. ARTEMISIA NORVEGICA Fries, var. PACIFICA Gray (Worm- wood. ) A. chamissoniana Hook., l.c. Aspidium. See Polystichum. AsTER Menzziesit Lindl. ““N.W. coast.” (Probably collected in California.— ey tN.) ATRIPLEX GMELINI C. A. Meyer. A. angustifolia Hook., l.c. ATRIPLEX ZOSTER2FOLIA (Hook.) Watson. Orache. ) Chenopodium zosterifolia Hook., l.c. Azalea procumbens. See Loiseleuria. BAHIA ARTEMISLEFOLIA Less. BERBERIS AQuIFOLIUM Pursh. BERBERIS NERVOSA Pursh. Berberis glumacea DC. (Probably not Menzies. (Sandwort. ) (Orache. ) (Narrow (Oregon Grape. ) Fl. I., 329. Bi. I1., 119. Fi. 1. 18, Pursh, I., 282. A. procera, 1753. B.R. 1791. Pursh, I., 282. Fl. Il., 36, t. 130. Fl. 1., 98. Fl. I., 99. Fl. I., 331, €) ida Fl. I., 324. Fl. Il., 12. Fl. II., 128. Bie Sle, 12%. Fl., 115. Fl. I., 29. B.R., t. 1425. E.B. I., 29. B.R., t. 1426. 134 Fi. Il., 92, t. 167. Fi. toy Fl. Fl. Fl. II., 92, 68. Il., 27. II., 216. Il., 215, t. 216. Fi. Fi. Fl. 155) 1a Fl. Fl. Fl. Fl. Fi. BiiteCeai tsi ieile Il., 214. Il., 37, Sie II., 105. I., 125. Menzies’ Journal. BETULA OCCIDENTALIS Hook. (Western Birch.) Birch Bay, Washington, was named after this tree, which is mentioned as occurring there by Vancouver and Menzies. The species was named from specimens collected in the same locality by Scouler. BoSCHNIAKIA GLABRA C. A. Meyer. (Broom Rape.) BoscuNniAkiA Hooxert Walp. (Orobanche tuberosa Hook.) Brodiea. See Hookera. CALANDRINIA Menztesit Hook. “ North-west coast of America, south of the Columbia.” CALTHA BIFLORA DC. (Marsh Marigold.) “ Banks’ Isles on the North-west coast of America. Menzies.” CALTHA LEPTOSEPALA DC. CALYPSO BULBOSA Oakes. B.M. 54, t. 2763. Port Discovery, near the ship, May 3rd. “Cypripedium bulbosum” of Menz. MS. CAMPANULA LINIFOLIA A. DC. (Harebell.) “Port Wentworth and Sledge Island.” CarEX GMELINI Hook. (Sedge.) CAREX MACROCEPHALA Willd. Carex MERTENSII Prescott. CAREX OVALIS Good. “Columbia River. Menzies.” CASSIOPE STELLERIANA (Pall.) DC. “North-west coast, probably Banks’ Islands.” CASTILLEJA PALLIDA (L.) Kunth. (White Painter’s Brush.) CEANOTHUS L&VIGATUS Hook. (Sticky Laurel.) “ Nootka.”” Hooker. (Port Discovery & Puget Sound. Menz. in Journ.) CEANOTHUS THYRSIFIORUS Esch. (California Lilac.) (Probably Californian.—C. F. N.) CERASTIUM ARVENSE L. (Meadow Chickweed.) “Columbia. Mr. Menzies.” CHAM-ECYPARIS NUTKATENSIS (Lambert) Spach. (Yellow Cypress. ) As Cupressus Nutkanus Lambert. “Nutka. Mr. Menzies.” The “new species of Thuya” found by Menzies in Burke Channel in Boxer Reach near Gribbell Island, and at Kildala Arm, Kitimat. ere ret eee rr er ee | Cruyfbe Yearen Rats, se ee ,7 we a ha ae Cth Sh cs SE lg SS Chimaphila Menziesii (R.Br.) Spreng. Menzies’ Wintergreen. From Hooker, Flor. Bor.-Amer., II., Pl. 188. 1834. * ~ i , | f : iy if iin bee paver. rr es C$ ee Ferns and Flowering Plants. 135 Chenopodium. See Atriplex. CurmapuitA Menziesu (R. Br.) Spreng. Fl. IL, 49, Bech Oines, t. 138. CHIMAPHILA UMBELLATA (L.) Nutt. (Prince’s Pine.) Fl. IL. 49. CHRYSANTHEMUM NANUM Hook. (Ox-eye Daisy.) Fl. I., 320. Not recognized by recent writers. C. arcticum was found by Krause in Lynn Canal and by McEvoy in Observatory Inlet. CLADOTHAMNUS PYROLAFLORUS Bong. Fl. Il., 45. Tolmica occidentalis Hook. Claytonia. See Montia. CLINTONIA UNIFLORA (Schult.) Kunth. Fl. IL, 175, Smilacina uniflora Menz. Hook., l.c. re Near Port Stewart, Alaska. Menzies. Also in Kildala Arm, Kitimat, 1793. Fol. 321. “ Dracena borealis, var.,’ of Menzies.) COLLOMIA HETEROPHYLLA Hook. “ California, 1792.” CoPTIs ASPLENIIFOLIA Salisb. (Gold Thread.) Fl. I., 24, Cornus Nurrauuit Audub. (Nuttall’s Dogwood.) an “Great Flowering Dogwood.” Admiralty Inlet, ete. CoORNUS CANADENSIS L. (Canadian Dogwood.) Admiralty Inlet, etc. CorNuS OCCIDENTALIS (T. & G.) Coville. (Western Dog- B.M., t. 2895. F.B. L., 276. wood. ) C. alba Hook. The “ Common Dogwood ” of the Journal, fol. 138. Admiralty Inlet, etc. CorNUS SUECICA L. Burke Channel, B.C. Menzies, Journ. MS., fol. 354. CoryLus CALIFORNICA (A. DC.) Rose. (Hazel.) The Hazel frequently noted by Menzies in Admiralty Inlet. ‘Fol. 138, etc. CRATGUS BREVISPINA Douglas. (Hawthorn.) The Hawthorn noticed by Menzies at Cape Mudge, B.C. CRYPTOGRAMMA ACROSTICHOIES R. Br. ea “ Nootka Sound.” Cupressus. See Thuya and Chamecyparis. Cypripedium bulbosum Menzies. See Calypso. DELPHINIUM Menziestt DC. (Menzies’ Larkspur.) Fl. 1, 25. “Hab. in Nova-Georgia.” mae fa Menzies’ Journal. Fl. I., 46. Fl. Il., 174, t. 189. Fl. I., 55. Li Bad (eet oh be Fl. I1., 89. Jl. 326, 354. Fl. II., 207. Fl. II., 203, t. 204. BIL. 6: B.M., t. 2942. Fl. II., 182. Bot. Mag. 94, tab. 5714. Bl. IL;, 182. Fl. II., 182. Bl Te: DENTARIA TENELLA Pursh. As D. tenuifolia Ledeb. “ Banks of the Columbia.” DICENTRA FORMOSA (Andr.) DC. “ Nootka Sound.” DisporuM Smiruit (Hook.) Piper. Uvularia Smithii Hook., 1.c. “Nutka Sound.” DRABA INCANA L. var. B. Hooker. Dracena borealis of Menzies. ' See Clintonia. DROSERA ANGLICA Hupson. (Sundew.) D. longifolia. Nepean Sound, 1793. DROSERA ROTUNDIFOLIA L. Echium Menziesu Lehm. See Amsinckia. Teakern Arm, Redonda Island, B.C. EMPETRUM NIGRUM L. (Crowberry.) Nepean Island, B.C., and Burke Channel. EPILOBIUM MINUTUM Lindl. IXPIPACTIS DECIPIENS (Hook.) Ames. tain.) Spiranthes decipiens Hook. Goodyera Mengiesu Lindl. IXRIGERON SALSUGINOSUS (iene deem) Gray. Aster salsuginosus Hook. | ERYTHRONIUM GIGANTEUM Lindl. Lily.) E. grandiflorum var. g., albiflorum Hook. KE. GIGANTEUM Baker. “Fort Vancouver. Menzies.” There is an obvious error here, for Menzies did not visit the Columbia River. Broughton, in the Chatham, surveyed the Columbia River from the 21st of October to the 10th of November, 1792. It was too late in the season - then for the finding of this plant. It is common in the northern part of Admiralty Inlet. ERYTHRONIUM REVOLUTUM Smith. (Pink Dogtooth Lily.) E. grandiflorum, var. d., Smithn Hook. “King George’s Sound. Menzies.” A purple-flowered species of wide range along the coast of Vancouver Island and reaching the mainland at the head of Kingcome Inlet. (C. F. N., 1917.) Speci- mens from the following localities touched at by (Pepper Root.) (Dutchman’s Breeches.) (Fairy Bells.) (Whitlow Grass.) (Rattlesnake Plan- (Large White Dogtooth | { t ' t b { i | A Meuzies Bg del as el Gentiana Douglasiana Bongard. Douglas’ Gentian. From a Flor. Bor.-Amer., II., Pl. 148. TAB cxtvi | enliana Ohiglasana if Ngan drawing by Menzies in Hook., 337. nlf 5 ‘\) o-oo A dist wus : 7 Ferns and Flowering Plants. 137 Menzies have been seen: Nootka, Cape Mudge, and near “‘ Cheslakees ” village at the mouth of the Nimkish River. ESCHSCHOLZIA CALIFORNICA Cham. “ Monterey, Calif., 1792.” See Phacelia. (Devil’s Club.) Eutoca Menziesui R. Br. FATSIA HORRIDA (Smith) B. & H. Panax horridum Smith & Hook., l.c. FRAGARIA CHILENSIS (L.) Duch. F., BRACTEATA Heller, etc. (Strawberries. ) Strawberries are frequently mentioned by Menzies in his journal, but do not appear in the published records. The above are common in the places mentioned by him. FRAXINUS OREGANA Nutt. Sylva 3, 59, t.99. (Oregon Ash.) Admiralty Inlet, ete. FRITILLARIA LANCEOLATA Pursh. “ Nutka Sound. Menzies.” In his Journal, under date June 8th, Menzies speaks of the “Saranne root” (Lilium camtscatcense L.) as occurring on one of the islands of the San Juan group, probably Orcas. Both species are credited to this region by Piper, Flora of Washington, p. 192. GARRYA ELLIPTICA Douglas. “ California.” GAULTHERIA SHALLON Pursh. (“A. Menzies shrub.’’—Pursh. ) GENTIANA DouGLAsIANA Bong. var. PATENS Hook. GENTIANA Menziestt Griseb. Menzies records the discovery of two new Gentians in mountains bordering on Nepean Sound, B.C. This is in latitude 53° 10’, nearly the same as that at which the editor collected G. platyphylla, the species most like G. Menziesii, according to Grisebach. GEUM CALTHIFOLIUM Menzies. (Mountain Avens.) G. radiatum Hook., l.c. GILIA INCONSPICUA (Smith) Douglas. Described from plants grown from seed received in 1793. (Probably collected at Monterey in 1792 by Menzies.—C. F. N.) GNAPHALIUM CHILENSE Spreng. (Quinine Bush.) (Salal.) the first discoverer of this Fl. II., 181, t. 193, B. Fi. Ii., 143. B.R. 1686. Fl. Il., 36. Fi. II., 60, eae ici se Fl. IL., 59. Bios, dite B.M., t. 2883. Fl. L., 328. Fi. Fil. Fi. Fl. Fi. Fl. B.R., Fl. I., 211. Il., 198. II., 199. II., 196. II., 197. II., 186. II., 185, #. 198, A. Fi. Fl. Fl. Fl. Fl. Hee SEs It., 192. 11, (44: t. 1639. Menzies Journal. G. luteo-album Hook., Lc. “North California, Menzies. Straits of de Fuca, Scouler.” GODETIA PURPUREA (Donn) Watson. (Enothera purpurea Hook., l.c. Goodyera Menziesti. See Epipactis decipiens. HABENARIA GRACILIS (Lindl.) Watson. (Slender Bog Orchis. ) Platanthera gracilis Hook., l.c. HABENARIA GRAMINEA (Lindl.). Platanthera graminea Hook., l.c. HABENARIA OBTUSATA (Pursh) Richardson. Platanthera obtusata Hook., l.c. HABENARIA MenzieEsit (Lindl.) (Menzies’ Orchis.) Platanthera Menziesit Hook., 1.c. Closely resembles H. orbiculata (Pursh) Torrey. HOoKERA CORONARIA Salis. Parad. Lond., t. 98. (False Onion. ) Brodica grandiflora Smith in Hook., L.c. “New Georgia. Menzies.” HooKERA HYACINTHINA (Lindl.) Kuntze. (Wild Hya- cinth. ) Hesperoscordon Lewisis Lindl., Hook., 1.c. HOOKERA PULCHELLA Salisb. Brodiaea congesta Smith. Tr. Linn. S., Io, t. 1. New Georgia. Smith. HoSACKIA PARVIFLORA Benth. “California. Menzies.” (More likely from Admiralty Inlet, where it is common at the dates Menzies was there —C. F. N.) Juncus Batticus Willd. (Rush.) Juncus Faucatus E. Meyer. J. Menziesis R. Br. MS. KALMIA POLIFOLIA Wangh. (American laurel.) K. glauca Menzies. Nepean Sound, B.C., 1793. LEDUM GROENLANDICUM CEder. (Labrador Tea.) L. palustre and L. latifoliwum Menzies, MS., fol. 3266. Nepean Sound, B.C. Gathered in quantities as a sub- stitute for tea. Also mentioned by Vancouver at same time. (II., 299.) Hook., 1.c., also credits Menzies with eit ai, -le ees — — Menziesia ferruginea Smith. MR aa SBT pe SCARE 4 Ure PS” Pte Stare ap? .7 * . > “ J)" 4 se 7 ba ; From Smith, J E., Plant. Icon. Ined., III., Pl. ~p o6. 1791. - és , J a » RO re hae: | @ aU Ferns and Flowering Plants. L. palustre var. B. latifolium from the “ N.W. coast, oO» lat. 59°. Leimanthium Nuttall Hook. See Zygadenus venenosus. Leprmpium Menziesit DC. (Pepper Grass.) LEPTARRHENA AMPLEXIFOLIA (Sternb.) Ser. (Pear Leaf.) L. pyroefolia R. Br. “ Behring’s Strait. Menzies.” More probably from the coast of B.C. or S.E. Alaska, where it is common. There is no evidence that Menzies was ever in Behring’s Strait. Licgusticum scotuHicum L. (Lovage.) Seaforth Channel and Gardner’s Canal. Lilium canadense L. (Tiger Lily.) San Juan Islands, probably Orcas Island (var. parvi- florum Hook. LINNEA BOREALIS var. AMERICANA (Forbes) Rehder. Kildala Arm, in Kitimat Channel, B.C., and Teakerne wom, B:C., 1793. LISTERA CONVALLARIOIDES (Sw.) Torr. LOISELEURIA PROCUMBENS (L.) Desv. Azalea procumbens Hook., l.c. “ Banks’ Islands and Mt. Edgecombe, lat. 54°. coast. Mr. Menzies.” Jl., fol. 326. Lonicera sp. (Probably L. ciliosa (P.L.) Poir.) L. “ Nutkagensis Menz.” in Journal. Admiralty Inlet, ete. LuPINus BIcoLor Lindl. “California. Mr. Menzies.” LUPINUS DENSIFLORUS Benth. Lupinus Mensziesu Ag. California. Lupinus NootKaTensis Donn. LUTKEA PECTINATA (Pursh) Kuntze. Eriogynia pectinata Hook. “ Behring’s Straits. Mr. Menzies.” The type described by Pursh as Saxifraga pectinata. (Fl. Am., Sept., I., 312. “ On the N.W. coast. Menzies. Herb. Banks.” ) LycopoDIUM COMPLANATUM L. (Clubmoss.) MADIA EXIGUA (Smith) Greene. (Tar Weed.) Sclerocarpus exiguus Smith. Rees. Cyclop., 31. (Tway Blade.) (Alpine Azalea.) N.W. Nepean Sound, B.C. Menz., Hook., l.c. Bong. Veg. sit., t. 2. 1816. 139 Fi. I., 68. Fl. I., 256, t. 89. Fl. I1., 181. Fi. I. Fl. Il., 44. B.R., 1109. Fi. I., 162. B.R., t. 1689. B.M., t. 5019. B.M., t. 1311. Fi. I., 163. Fl. L.,, 255, t. 22. Fl. Il., 267. 140 Menzies Journal. FY. If., 70. Fl. Il., 86. Fl. I1., 100. B.M., t. 1501. Fl. II., 49. Fl. 1., 224, t. 72. B.M., t. 1336. Fl. I., 225. B.M., t. 1309. Fl. 1, 225. Fl. I., 226, t. 74. Fl. II., 160. Fl. Il., 79. MENZIESIA FERRUGINEA Smith. “In Americae borealis tractu occidentali copiosissime crescit.” Collected by Menzies. Sir J. E. Smith estab- lished the new genus and species in the work quoted and dedicated them to the tireless traveller and botanist from whom he had received the specimens. These were collected during Menzies’ first visit to the North-west coast.. Burke Channel, B.C., Journal, fol. 354. MENYANTHES CRISTA-GALLI Menz. Hook., Bot. Misc. II., 45. (The plate from a draw- ing by Menzies.) MENYANTHES TRIFOLIATA L. (Buckbean.) Teakerne Arm, Redonda Island, B.C. MERTENSIA MARITIMA L. (Sea Lungwort.) Lithospermum maritimum Hook., l.c. MicroMerIA Doucuasir Benth. (Yerba Buena.) MIMULUS ALSINOIDES Dougl. Mimutus LAncsporrFit Donn. “ Nootka and California.” Doubtless collected by Menzies, as it is a very common plant along the whole coast of British Columbia. Monortropa Hyporitys L. (Pine Sap.) M. lanuginosa. MonTIA PARVIFOLIA (Moc.) Greene. Claytonia filicaulis Hooker. “ Nootka and Queen Charlotte Islands, July, 1787. Mr. Menzies.” MonTIA PERFOLIATA (Donn) Howell. Claytonia perfoliata. “ First discovered by Mr. Menzies.” MontTIA siprricA (L.) Howell. Claytonia alsinoides Sims. MonrvTIA SPATHULATA (Dougl.) Howell. Claytonia spathulata Hook. MyricCA CALIFORNICA Cham. (Sweet Gale.) Myrica GALE L. (Sweet Gale.) Kitimat Arm, B.C., ‘“‘ Perfuming the marshes.” NemopuHiLaA Menziesi1 Hook. & Arn. (Spring Beauty.) California. NEMOPHILA PARVIFLORA Doug]. “California. Mr. Menzies.” Common in Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound. —" y on : Wen you Hes Carer Sell ee oad 1828. Menyanthes crista-galli Menzies. From Hook., Bot. Miscell., I., Pl. 24. (Drawing by Menzies.) oo Ferns and Flowering Plants. 141 Nicotiana nana Lindl. (Tobacco.) Fl. I1., 91. “N.W. America. A. Menzies, Esq. (Herb. nostr.). Originally discovered by the excellent Menzies.” Hook., l.c. Professor C. V. Piper, of Washington, D.C., informs 9 the editor that the “ Nicotiana nana ” referred to above is now known as Hesperocheiron nanus or Capnorea nana and that it came from the Rocky Mountains. He adds that he doubts very much if Menzies ever got it on the North-west coast, as it has never yet been found west of the Cascade mountains. Vancouver, Voyage, III., 256, gives Whidbey’s account of “ square patches of ground, in a state of cultivation, producing a plant that appeared to be a species of tobacco: and which, we understood is by no means uncommon amongst the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte Islands, who cultivate much of this plant.” Vancouver here derived his knowledge from Menzies and Johnstone, both of whim visited the Queen Char- lotte Islands with Colnett in 1787, when the latter made a plan of Rose’s Harbour, which was published by Dalrymple in October, 1789. The former also made some botanical collections in these islands. Hoskins an American, in 1791, writing of Rose’s Har- bour under the name of Barrell’s Sound, says that he went ashore with Captain Gray (of the Columbia), and at the head of the sound they found a meadow containing some tobacco plants, wild celery, etc. Ina later passage Hoskins states that the men here “ chew tobacco in a green state with which they mix a substance resembling lime. They put quids of this plant into their mouths as big asa hen’s egg.” (Hoskins, Narr. of a Voyage to the N.W. coast of America, 1791-2. MS. pp. 52 and 59. Captain Ingraham, too (Journ. of the Brigantine Hope, MS. transcript, p. 125), says: “The natives chew a plant (as many among us do) which may, perhaps, be worthy of attention. It appeared to me to possess some of the properties of tobacco. . . . Ihave procured a good quantity of the seed and shall send them home for inves- tigation, etc.” Captain Dixon (1787) speaks of the 11 142 Menzies’ Journal. Fi. Il., 105. Fl. I., 120, t. 41. B. Misc. I., 43, t. 23. Fl. I., 60. Fi. II., 107. Fl. I1., 95. B.M., 3645. B.R., t. 1132. Fl. II., 98. Be Reiits lake. Tr., 294. same custom at Port Mulgrave, Yakutat, Alaska. Many other writers also speak of this native tobacco, but, so far, no satisfactory identification of its species has come to hand. The possibility of the tobacco collected by Menzies on the Pacific coast having been found by him at Trinidad Harbour must not be overlooked. He went ashore there with Vancouver on May 2nd, 1793. It was this port that in June, 1775, the Spanish expedition under Heceta noted that the natives smoked tobacco in small wooden pipes in the form of a trumpet and procured it from little gardens where they had planted it. (Barrington, D. Miscellanies, Lond., p. 489. 1789.) Unfortunately, Menzies’ own account of Trinidad is missing from his Journal. ORTHOCARPUS TENUIFOLIUS Benth. PACHYSTIMA MYRSINITES (Pursh) Raf. (Evergreen Box Myrtle.) Myginda myrtifolia Hook. PARNASSIA FIMBRIATA KoEntG. (Grass of Parnassus.) Panax. See Fatsia. ParryA Menziesit (Hook.) Greene. Hesperis Menziesit Hook. | alitornia:),)\ Mir.) Menzies: PEpICcULARIS MeEnziesit Benth. (Menzies’ Lousewort.) “ Not clearly identified.” Gray. PEDICULARIS PARVIFLORA Smith. P. Wlassoviana Stev. PENTSTEMON DrIFFUSUS Dougl. PENTSTEMON Menziesit Hook. “Nootka Sound. Menzies, 1788.” This plant grows freely near the sea on some of the rocky islands. (GlaB ING) PENTSTEMON SCOULERI Lindl. .| PuacetiaA Menziesit (Brown) Hook. Eutoca Menzies. (Scorpion Weed.) “ California....Mr. Menzies.” It also occurs on Whid- bey Island and some of the islands in the Strait of Georgia \( Cuno.) PHILADELPHUS Sp. (Syringa, Mock Orange.) Hon Lite § ar te S47 a J 2 Parnassia fimbriata Konig. From Hook., Bot. Miscell., I., Pl. 23. 1828. (Drawing by Menzies.) cl ce ls le Se oe tt et i pak ics J eee Sk ™” ef Ae eee By eey rt. # ie ep pak? ae i tS R2y. j rm " ae > = ‘oe aa) | : +4 yy oN Ve | “ . Ms - 1 s ty re ®t Nee 4 bal Ve ‘owe mm "Se in Oa “ as * * I a Sy . : ing 1 7 ; ity USF asa * ae t = gt ; ; - = Lig 8 = P - ‘ ‘ 4 ' / “ * . \ rae t oe | ‘ ’ ‘ e i - ‘ ‘ ay a i ¢ f “~ i = 4 Bw ( : i“ oe sd > o 4 =) hi i ri ‘ ’ 7 Ae i ee a i a! . wip : 4 Ne , ; Aine ; i i “d f 7 ' ig 7 ; i’ ba a4 ’ f “4 + UJ 7 t) in aa . oe i 7 *o ' ima i a) por ah s et Ferns and Flowering Plants. Spirea opulifolia Hook. “Fort Vancouver. Mr. Menzies.” This is a very common plant in places visited by Menzies in 1792, but he never went to the Columbia River. Fort Vancouver did not exist then. (C. F. N.) PHYLLODOCE EMPETRIFORMIS (Smith) D. Don. (False Heather. ) PuysocaARPus OPULIFOLIUS (L.) Maxim. (Pine Bark.) Menziesia empetriformis Hook. “ Nutka, on the N.W. coast of America. Mr. Menzies.” May not this be the Andromeda caerulea of Menzies which he found on Nipple Summit, Redonda Island? te, N.) PICEA SITCHENSIS (Bong.) Trautv. & Meyer. (Sitka Spruce. ) Pinus (Abies?) Menziesti Hook., 1.c. Pinus contorta Dougl. (Scrub Pine.) P. inops of Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, etc., in MS. Pinus MONTICOLA Dougl. (Mountain Pine.) Pinus strobus Menzies MS. PLANTAGO MACROCARPA Cham. & Schlecht. (Coast Plan- tain. ) P. lanceolata var. b. Hook., l.c. POLYGONUM PARONYCHIA Cham. & Schlecht. (Knotweed. ) POLYGONUM SPERGULARLEFORME MEISN. P. coarctatum and P. lineare Hook., l.c. PoLysTICHUM MUNITUM (Kaulf.) Presl. (Chamisso’s Fern.) PoPULUS TREMULOIWES Michx. (Trembling Poplar.) Birch Bay. Trans., 291. Poputus TricHocarPA Torr. & Gray. (White Poplar.) Birch Bay. Trans., 291. POTAMOGETON NATANS L., POTENTILLA VILLOSA Pallas. PRIMULA NIVALIs Pall. “Mt. Edgecombe. Menzies.” PRIMULA SAXIFRAGIFOLIA Lehm. “Unalashka. Menzies.” PSEUDOTSUGA TAXIFOLIA (Poir) Britt. Abies taxifolia Lambert. Pursh, Fl. Am., Sept., IT., 640. “North-west coast. Menzies.” (Pursh.) Douglas Fir. Fl. Fl. B.M., Fl. Fil. Fl. Fl. Fl. Fl. Fl. 143 II., 40. 1 ty 6 II., 162. II., 161. II., 123. Il., 132. II;, 188. II., 261. Fl. II., 164. t. 3176. Menzies’ Journal. Fi. IL, 48, t. 187. Fl. II., 47, t. 136. Fi. Il., 47 Fl. I., 203 t. 68. Fl. I., 204 Fi. 1., 123, t. 44. Fi. I., 123 t. 43. B.M., t. 4863. Fi, Il., 43. Fl. I., 43. PyROLA APHYLLA Smith. PyROLA DENTATA Smith. “Nutka Sound, N.W. coast, and Columbia River. Menzies.” Pyrona PICTA Smith. “ Nutka Sound, N.W. coast. PYROLA SECUNDA L. Kildala Arm, near Kitimat, B.C. M.’s Journ. fol.) 2am: PYRUS DIVERSIFOLIA Bong. P. rivularis Hook., 1.c. “Nootka Sound and other parts of the North-west coast of America. Menzies.” PyYRUS SITCHENSIS (Roem.) Piper. P. americana Hook., l.c. “Mountain Ash,” Menz. (Carr Inlet). Quercus GarRyANA Dougl. Hook., lc. (Garry Oak.) Menzies, MS., frequently speaks of an Oak which he found near Port Townsend and other places in Admiralty Inlet. RHAMNUS CALIFORNICA Esch. Rhamnus oleifolius Hook., l.c. “ North-west coast of America. Mr. Menzies.” “ Its estimable discoverer found it not only on the banks of the Columbia, but in California.” Hook., l.c. RuAMNuS PursHIANUS DC. (Cascara Sagrada.) RHODIOLA ROSEA. See Sedum roseum. RHODODENDRON CALIFORNICUM Hook. R. maximum Hook. ““N.W. coast. Menzies.” Menzies found this shrub at Port Discovery, Washington, early in May, 1792. (It still grew there plentifully in 1917,—C. F. N.) RHODODENDRON KAMTSCHATICUM Pall. “ Banks’ Island and Port Edgecombe, N.W. coast. Mr. Menzies.” This is an error in locality and, probably, in the name of the collector. RIBES LAXIFLORUM Pursh. (Currant.) ( Wintergreen. ) Mr. Menzies.” MS., (Crab Apple.) (Mountain Ash.) (California Buckthorn.) _|Rrpes Menztesit Pursh. “Port Trinidad. Menzies.” in May, 1793.) RIBES SANGUINEUM Pursh. EHook.,; 1:c. (Menzies collected here (Red-flowered Currant.) Chubers aellatets : / Babe Rubus stellatus Smith. Menzies’ Raspberry. From Smith, J. E., Plantarum Icon. Ined., III., Pl. 64. 179d. _ & '¢ Ah ’ * Ad Nai ie 4 ‘ :] ‘ » i ’ “4 ins ~ 4 Ferns and Flowering Plants. 145 RiBEs sPEciosuM Pursh. B.R., t. 1577. R. stamineum Smith. Hook., l.c. B.M., t. 3530. “North California. Mr. Menzies.” (R. triacantha] 9. 1, 229. Menz., MS., cum c. nitidiss. Hook., lc. Rosa NUTKANA Presl. Fl. 1., 199. R. fraxinifolia Hook., l.c. ROMANZOFFIA SITCHENSIS Bong. Fl. II., 103. “Port Trinidad. Menzies.” Hooker adds that Menzies’ original description and sketches were in his possession. Rusus Menziestt Hoox. (Raspberry.) Fl. I., 179. (A variety of R. spectabtlis Pursh according to Bot., Cat: I. 172. Rubus PARvIFLorus Nutt. (Thimbleberry.) B.R., 1368. R. Nutkanus (Moc.) Lindl. B.M., 3453. Queen Charlotte Sound, lat. 51°. Rubus SpEcTABILIS Pursh. (Salmonberry.) Ph. 1, 348, Rusus PEDATUS Smith. (Creeping Raspberry.) BM. 1424. Burke Channel, B.C. yg a RUBUS STELLATUS Smith. Fl. I., 183. “Near Foggy Harbour, North-west coast. Menzies.” (A rare species found at Port Simpson, B.C., W. B. Anderson, and in Kasaan Inlet, Alaska.—C. F. N.) Rusus stricosus Michx. (Red Raspberry.) Fl. L., 177. RyNcHosporaA ALBA (L.) Vahl. Schoenus albus L. Menz. Jl., MS. SAGINA SAGINOIDES (L.) Britt. (Pearlwort.) Fi. 1, 95. Spergula saginoides Hook., l.c. SALICORNIA AMBIGUA Michx. (Samphire.) Salicornia herbacea, L. Menz. MS. Reported frequently by Menzies as occurring in swamps near the sea. Eaten as a “ pot herb.” Kitimat Arm, Menz., Jl., fol. 321. SANGUISORBA MICROCEPHALA Presl. ( Burnet.) Fl. I., 197. S. media, B. minor. Hook. “At Port Wentworth. Mr. Menzies.” Hooker adds: “T have a beautiful drawing, made on the spot by Mr. Menzies.” This is probably the species referred to as new in the Journal, fol. 326, collected in Nepean Sound, B.C. SANICULA ARCTOPOIDES Hook. Fl. 1., 258, SanicutA MEnzieEstt Hook. heey ues t. 90. Fl. L., . 3g anion no | Py s cans: Fi. IL, ley dil toe Fl. LL, t: 80; Bere) B.M., LG AG Fl. L., Fl. L., Fl. I1., 202. 88. t. 983. 173. B.R., t. 1365. rbe(ale 173. Menzies’ Journal. The following list of Saxifrages has been compiled from Hooker’s Flora Bor., I., pp. 242-255. Much doubt is felt, however, as to the authenticity of some of the localities given for Menzies’ plants. No evidence has come to light that he collected anywhere near Behring’s Straits and Nelson’s plants must have become mixed with his. SAXIFRAGA BRONCHIALIS L. “North-west coast. Nelson. Behring’s Straits. Menzies.” These stations could be reversed. (C. F. N.) . DAHURICA Pall. . EscuscuHouzir Sternb. . FLAGELLARIS Willd. . LEUCANTHEMIFOLIA Michx. . NUDICAULIS Don. . SERPYLLIFOLIA Pursh. . SILENIFLORA Sternb. . SPICATA Don. ‘““Behring’s Straits.” SEDUM ROSEUM (L.) Scop. (Rose-root.) Burke Channel, B.C. SEQUOIA SEMPERVIRENS (Lamb.) Endlich. (Redwood.) ““N.W. coast,” Hook. “ Nootka,” Nutt., Sylva (not known north of Oregon.—C. F. N.) SHEPHERDIA CANADENSIS (L.) Nutt. SILENE Menziestt Hook. (Campion.) SILENE ScOULERI Hook. (Campion.) SISYRINCHIUM CALIFORNICUM Ait. “ California. Banks’ Herbarium.” Smilacina borealis. See Clintonia. SPIRZA ARLEFOLIA Smith. Mixed localities given by Hooker for the Pacific coast. SPIRZA CHAMADRIFOLIA Pall., var. B. ‘Sledge Island, Behring’s Straits.” (An improbable locality for Menzies, who may, how- ever, have collected s. betulifolia Pall., or a segregate, in the Chilcat region, where it has been found by Krause. (See Kurz, Flor. Chilcat., 371.) Spir#@A Menzresit Hook. (This grows in the lagoon at Nootka, where Menzies collected occasionally.—C. F. N.) SPIRANTHES ROMANZOFFIANA Cham. (Ladies’ Tresses.) NNNNNNNMN Ferns and Flowering Plants. 147 SoOLIDAGO ELONGATA Nutt. (Goldenrod.) Fl. I, 5. S. elata Hook., l.c. “ North-west coast. Mr. Menzies.” Stipa COMATA, Trin. Pursh, Fl. 1. Stipa juncea Willd. (Feather Grass.) a SWERTIA PERENNIS L., var., OBTUSA Griseb. Fi. IL, 66. TANACETUM HURONENSE Nutt. (Tansy.) Omalanthus camphoratus Hook. “California. Menzies.” BB Aes Taxodium. See Sequoia. TAXUS BREVIFOLIA Nutt. (Yew.) Reported by Menzies in Admiralty Inlet, etc. TELLIMA GRANDIFLORA (Ph.) Dougl. ea Sree TELLIMA PARVIFLORA Hook. Fi. I., 239. “North California.” Menzies. Tetranthera. See Umbellularia. TIARELLA LACINIATA Hook. Fi. I., 239, Tuuya sp. nov. Menzies’ Journ. MS. shire See Chamaecyparis nootkatensis. Tuuya puicaTaA Donn. (Giant Cedar.) ee ee The “ American Arbor Vite” of Menzies’ Journ. ToFIELDIA sp. (Bog Asphodel.) eT ag T. coccinea Hook. North-west coast. Menzies. As Anthericum calycu- latum. Teakerne Arm, Cascade Cove. Menz. Jl., fol. 321. TRAUTVETTERIA GRANDIS Nutt. (False Bugbane.) Bh ae Actea palmata Hook. TRIGLOCHIN MARITIMA L. (Arrow Grass.) Admiralty Inlet, etc. TSUGA HETEROPHYLLA (Raf.) Sargent. (Western Hem- lock. ) Admiralty Inlet. “ Hemlock Spruce” of Menzies. UMBELLULARIA CALIFORNICA (H. & A.) Nutt. (Mountain | Su $9554. Laurel.) California. Uvularia. See Disporum. VACCINIUM CSPITOSUM Michx. (Dwarf Whortleberry.) | Fi. 11, 33, VACCINIUM MEMBRANACEUM Dougl. (Mountain Bilberry.) B.A. t. 3429. V. myrtilloides Hook., 1.c., II., 32. stad tht Vaccinium Oxycoccus L. (Cranberry.) Nepean Sound, B.C. 148 Menzies’ Journal. Fl. 11, 33, | VACCINIUM OVALIFOLIUM Smith. (Black Huckleberry.) pad lrar ri. 1, 34. | WACCINIUM OvATUM Pursh. (Evergreen Huckleberry.) Bie eon “Columbia. Menzies.” M. in Journ., 1228, reports this shrub from Admiralty Inlet, etc. A ee VACCINIUM PARVIFOLIUM Smith. (Red Huckleberry.) Ti. I1., 34. VACCINIUM OBTUSUM Pursh. Hook., Lc. A species unknown to Hooker. Fi. Il., 32. VACCINIUM ULIGINOSUM L. (Bog Whortleberry.) Fi. in, 34 | VAcciNtIuM Vitis-Inbza L. (Mountain Cranberry.) Fi. 1, 80, VANCOUVERIA HEXANDRA (Hook.) Morr. & Dec. HT Epimedium hexandrum Hook. Fl. 1, 79. VIOLA ADUNCA Smith. (Dog Violet.) ZOSTERA MARINA L, (Eel Grass.) Fl. 11,177. |ZYGADENUS VENENOSUS Nutt. (Poison Camas.) Leimanthium Nuttallii Hook., 1.c. Mosses. II. MosseEs. Abbreviations— M. Ex.—Musci Exotici. 1818-20. (By W. H. Hooker.) Tr. L.S.—Transactions of the Linnean Society of London, IV., 1798. Bot. Misc.—Botanical Miscellany. 1828-30. (W. J. Hooker.) L. & J—Mosses of North America. 1884. (Lesquereux & James. ) BartTRAMIA MEnzieEsit Turner. eae oi, Ant Bot, Ji, t. £15, fok. 1)" | r805, HyPNuM CIRCINALE Hook. HypNumM rosustum Hook. ISOTHECIUM STOLONIFERUM (Hook.) Brid. Hypnum stolonif. Hook. Mnium Menziesirt (Hook.) Muell. Bryum Menziesii Hook., Bot. Misc. I., 36, t. 19. NeckerA Douctasit Hook., l.c., I., 131, t. 35. NeckErRA MeEnzieEsit Drumm. PLAGIOTHECIUM ELEGANS (Hook.) Schimp. Hypnum eleg. Hook. POGONATUM ALPINUM ARCTICUM Brid. Polytrichum sylvaticum Menz. POGONATUM CONTORTUM (Menz.) Lesq. Polytrichum cont. Menz. POGONATUM DENTATUM (Menz.) Brid. Polytrichum dent. Menz. POLYTRICHUM ATTENUATUM Menz. POLYTRICHUM GRACILE Menz. PoLyTRICHUM STRICTUM Banks. THUIDIUM CRISPIFOLIUM ( Hook.) Kindb. Hypnum crispifol. Hook. THUIDIUM LAXIFOLIUM (Hook.) Macoun. & Kindb. Hypnum laxifol. Hook. 149 M. Ex., t. 67 M. Ex., t. 107 bel Pe ee re yr toort ron pot ES wre 3 W o wo - od — & iM ~ () i] 150 Tuckerm. I. 29. Tuckerm. I., 37. Tuckerm. I., 35. Tuckerm. I., 243. Tuckerm. I., 39. Tuckerm. I., 38. Tuckerm. I., 159 Tuckerm. I., 53. Tuckerm. I., 60. Hook., Bot. Mise. I., t. 33. Tuckerm. I., 105. Tuckerm. I. 67. Tuckerm. I., 69. Tuckerm. I., 235. - Tuckerm. I., 21. Tuckerm. I., 24, Tuckerm. I., 99 mae Tuckerm. I., 101. Tuckerm. I. 88. Menzies’ Journal. III. LicHEns. CETRARIA CALIFORNICA Tuckerm. California. CETRARIA JUNIPERINA (L.) Ach. N.W. coast of America. CETRARIA LACUNOSA Ach., v. STENOPHYLLA Ach. N.W. coast. CLADONIA GRACILIS (L.) Nyl., v. ELONGATA Fr California. EVERNIA PRUNASTRI (L.) Ach. Pacific coast of America. EVERNIA VULPINA (L.) Ach. Pacific coast of America. LEPTOGIUM PALMATUM (Huds.) Mont. Monterey, Cal. PARMELIA PERFORATA (Jacq.) Ach. Pacific coast of America. PARMELIA PHYSODES (L.) Ach., var. ENTEROMORPHA (Ach.) Tuckerm. California. PELTIGERA VENOSA (L.) Hofifm. N.W. coast of America. PHYSCIA ERINACEA (Ach.) Tuckerm. California. PHYSCIA LEUCOMELA (L.) Michx. California. PILOPHORUS CEREOLUS (Ach.), var. AcIcULARIS Tuckerm. Pacific coast of America. RAMALINA HOMALEA Ach. California. RAMALINA MEnzieEsi1 Tuckerm. California. RAMALINA RETICULATA (Noehd.) Kremp. California. STICTA ANTHRASPIS Ach. California. UMBILICARIA ANGULATA Tuckerm. Pacific coast of America. Marine Alge. 151 IV. Marine ALG. The following list is taken from the Nereis Boreali- Americana, by W. H. Harvey, Wash., 1852-58, with cor- rections to correspond with the Marine Alge of Vancouver Island, by W. S. Collins, Ottawa, 1913. Abbreviations— Coll.—Collins, F. S.: Marine Algze of Vancouver Island. 1913. Harv.—Harvey, W. H.: Nereis Boreali-Americana. 1851-58. Turn.—Turner, D.: Fuci, seu Fucorum Icones, etc. 1809-19. CosTARIA TURNERI, Grev. Turn., 1819, t. 226. CySTOPHYLLUM GEMINATUM (Ag.) J. G. Agardh. Banks’ Island, 1787. DESMARESTIA LIGULATA (Turn.) J. G. Agardh. EcreciA Menziestt (Turn.) Areschong. Phyllospora Menz. Ag. Menziesii. Turn., l.c. Nootka Sound. FAUCHEA LACINIATA J. G. Agardh. Callophyllis lac. GIGARTINA RADULA J. Ag. GYMNOGONGRA LINEARIS J. Ag. Port Trinidad, Cal. HALIDRYS OSMUNDACEA Harv. Port Trinidad, Cal. HALOSACCION GLANDIFORME (Gmelin) Ruprecht. H. hydrophora. Nootka Sound. HypNneEA MUuSCIFORMIS Lam. Nootka Sound, 1787. IRIDAA CORDATA (Turn.) J. Ag. Banks’ Island. LoMENTARIA OVALIS forma SUBARTICULATA (Turn.) Harv. Nootka Sound. ODONTHALIA FLOCCOSA (Esper) Falkenb. Rhodomela flocc. (Turn., 1808, t. 8.) Port Trinidad, Cal. POLYSIPHONIA NIGRESCENS var. MeNnziesi1 Harv. PRIONITIS LANCEOLATA Harv. Prince William’s Sound and Nootka. Harv. I., 90. Harv. I., 78. Oolls 175, ¢:, 110. Harv. I., 62, fee Coll. 117. Harv. U., 272. Harv. II., 178. Harv. Harv. Coll. 118. Harv. II., 194. Hary. II., 180. Turn., 1809, t. 116. Harv. 1.5 78; Turn., 1809, t8i. Coll. 122. Harv. I., 24. Harv. II., 197. 152 Menzies’ Journal. Harv. PTILOTA ASPLENIOIDES Ag. Prince William’s Sound. Bary PTILOTA PLUMOSA Ag. Prince William’s Sound. 1787. Harv. I 24. | RHODOMELA LARIX (Turner) Ag. (Turn., 1819, t. 207.) Nootka Sound. eer RHODOMELA PILULIFERA Grey. Nootka, 1787. Ethnological Notes. ETHNOLOGICAL NOTES. BirD-NETS. An early reference to the use of large nets raised on high poles to trap birds is that by Krasheninikoff and Steller about 1741. (Grieve, History of Kamtchatka, p. 161. 1764.) In 1825 Dr. Scouler was told by some of the Indians at Port Discovery that the high poles noticed there by Vancouver were for catching birds (Journal of a Voyage to N.W. America. Oreg. Hist. Soc. Quarterly, VI., p. 196), and the same explanation was given to Wilkes and Paul Kane in the same neighbourhood in 1841 and 1846. Cole- man in 1868 saw them on Orcas Island, where they were used with smoky fires at night. (Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, Nov., 1869, p. 794.) Finally there use was con- tinued until quite lately at the mouth of the Chemainus River, Vancouver Island. WooLLEN BLANKETS. Nearly every historian of the early voyages mentions blankets of the wool of some animal. The first definite statement as to the animal itself was made by Ledyard (Journ. of Capt. Cook’s Voy., p. 71), who speaks of gar- ments “ principally made with the hair of their dogs, which are almost white and of the domestic kind.” This observa- tion was made at Nootka in 1778, but as neither Cook himself nor any other journalist of his third voyage noticed the manufacture or use of dog’s hair at Nootka, it is most improbable that the blankets seen by Ledyard were made there. A more likely supposition is that they were brought by visitors from the southward, of whom mention is made. No other reference has been found to confirm the idea that dog’s hair was used at Nootka in weaving, or at any of the villages belonging to the same stock, except at Neeah Bay, Washington. According to Vancouver these dogs were like those of Pomeranian breed, with thick fleeces so compact that large | ~' portions could be lifted by one corner without causing any separation. They seem to have varied in colour from yellowish-white to brown and to have been unable to bark. 153 Ledyard, Capt. Cook’s Last Voy, Di, ths 154 Pennant, Arctie Zoology, I. Menzies’ MS. June 16, 1793. Mozino, Noticias de Nutka. Menzies’ Journal. Their range extended from the entrance of the Strait of Fuca to Puget Sound and as far north as Nanaimo. In the greater part of this area they overlapped the region in which the hair of the mountain-goat was used in a similar way. Cook thought that the woollen garments noted by him at Nootka were made of the wool of different animals, “as the fox and brown lynx,” and it appears from Pennant’s note under “ Sheep, Argali,” in his Arctic Zoology, I., p. 12, that a piece of this cloth was taken back to England, and that the wool resembled that under the hair of the musk-ox, and that it was of a pale-brown colour. This, perhaps, is the earliest suggestion of the mountain-goat, which was not known to be distinct from the mountain-sheep until some years later. Haswell in 1778-9 and Mozino in 1792 also speak of the wool of the mountain-sheep as used in blankets. But the nearest approach to the true nature of the animal source of the wool most commonly used by natives of the North-west Coast was made by Vancouver and Menzies in 1793, when they saw at a village not far from Bella Bella the skins of the animal “from which the fine white wool comes.” It had small straight horns and was there- fore supposed to be an unknown goat. The animal at this time was said to be high up in the mountains, but used to come down in winter. Menzies adds that at Nootka and Whannoh (i.e., the Nimpkish village) the natives were ignorant as to the animal “ which they procured by barter from the natives inland.” (Menzies’ Journ., under date June 16th, 1793.) It was probably from this locality that Vancouver procured the mutilated skin which Richardson refers to under “ Mountain-goat, Capra americana,” in his Fauna Boreali-Americana, p. 268. Looms. Two kinds of loom were used by the natives of the coast visited by Menzies in 1792. The simpler one consists of three sticks, two of which are set up vertically and support the third one in a horizontal position. The warp is fastened to the latter and weaving is carried on from side to side without the use of any other appliance than the fingers. This was well described by Mozino at Nootka and is the same with that used by the Chilcat Indians in the ate Rabe ne ce Te, Blanket-making, showing spinning and weaving on Vancouver Island. From a painting by Paul Kane. Indian tomb, showing canoe form of burial. From a drawing by H. J. Warre. Ethnological Notes. manufacture of the finest blanket of the North-west Coast. It is also used for making common cedar-bark mats and capes. In the area where this loom is used many of the tribes form cords of vegetable fibre or wool by twisting strands together with the fingers and then roll them tighter on the leg or thigh as at Nootka and the Chilcat region and making no use of a distaff. The same people may use a small spindle and whorl when making string for their nets. The second kind of loom (see illustration) is a large, heavy apparatus consisting of two posts supporting two adjustable rollers which are tightened in their slots by small wedges. Heavy rectangular blankets are made on this loom, often with decorated edges. For spinning the wool a whorl of about 7% inches in diameter is used. This is made of big-leaved maple, is concavo-convex, with the convexity sometimes carved, and has a strongly lipped ovoid hole in the centre. The spindle is often 3 or 4 feet long, thick at the handle, and tapering from a shoulder, which rests against the whorl. 155 150 Menzies’ Journal. BIBLIOGRAPHY. BANKS, Sir JosEpit. Instructions to Mr. Archibald Menzies. (In Prov. Archives. Report for 1913. Victoria, 1914.) Boas, Franz. The Lkungen. (In Brit. Assoc. for the Advancement of Science. Sixth Report on the North- Western Tribes of Canada, 1890, pp. 11-30.) Bort, Joun. (Proceedings of the Massachusetts Hist. Soc., Vol. 53.) The John Boit log and Captain Gray’s log of the ship Columbia; annotations by F. W. Howay and T. C. Elliott. (Oregon Hist. Quarterly, Vol. XXII. Port- land, Ore.,, 1921.) Log of the Columbia; annotations by W. C. Ford and E. S. Meany. Wash. Hist. Quarterly, Vol. XII. Seattle, Jan., 1921. (Only that portion of the journal is here reproduced which deals with the North-western Coast of America.) Campos, RAFAEL Torres. Espana en California y en el Noroeste de America. Madrid, 1892. CaARRENO, ALBERTO M. (See Mozino, JosepH Mariano.) Noticias de Nutka. : Cote, Rosert. William Combe and his works. (In Gentle- man’s Magazine (ns.), XXXVII. 1852. London, 1852.) (Combe stated to be the author of Meares’ voyages. ) CotemMAN, E. T. Mountaineering on the Pacific. (In Harper’s New Monthly Magazine. Nov., 1869.) Cooper, J. G. Catalogue of plants collected in Washington Territory west of the Cascade mountains during 1854-5. (Pacific Railroad Report, Vol. XII., pt. 11, 1860.) Datton, —. Ethnographical collections from the North coast of North America, more especially California, Hawai & Tahiti, formed during the voyage of Captain Vancouver, 1790-1795. (Internat. Archiv. fur Ethnog- | raphie, Bd. X. 1897.) ; | Dawson, Grorce Mercer. Notes and observations on the Kwakiool people of the northern part of Vancouver Island and adjacent coasts. (Trans. Royal Society of Canada, iV.ii55 Sel. i, Lee 7.) UN. Bibliography. 157 Denys, FerpinAND. Isle de Quadra et Vancouver (Noutka); Iles de la Reine Charlotte. L’Univers, Paris, 1849. Drxon, Georce. Voyage round the world, 1785-1788. 360 pp., pl., maps, tables, sq. F. London, Goulding, 1789. Drxon-MeEares controversy. (In The Monthly Review, Vol. V. (86). London, 1791.) Exuuis, Witt1AmM. Authentic narrative of a voyage per- formed by Captain Cook and Captain Clerke. 2 v., 21 pl., map. London. Robinson, 1782. Same, 3rd ed. 1784. Espinosa, y TELLO, Jose, 1763-1815. Relacion del viage hecho por las goletas sutil y Mexicana en el ano de 1792, para reconocer el estrecho de Fuca. , elxviii.t185 pp., tab. & atlas. Madrid, Imprenta real, 1802. [Forsytu, Joun] A check-list of books and pamphlets relat- ing to the history of British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest. In Scholefield and Howay, History of British Columbia, V. 1, pp. xv—xlvi. Gripes, GEORGE. Tribes of western Washington and north- western Oregon. Wash. Govt., 1877. (U.S.: Geogr. & Geolog. Survey of the Rocky Mt. Region.) Gicuioti, E. H. Appunti interno ad una collezione ethno- grafica fatta durante il terzo viaggio di Cook. (Arch. per l’anthropologia, e l’enthnologia, XXIII. Florence, 1895.) GRENVILLE, Lord. Letter to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. (In B.C. Prov. Library. Report of Provincial Archives. Victoria, 1914.) (Re Instruc- tions to Mr. Menzies prepared by Sir J. Banks.) HASWELL, Rosert. Log of Gray’s voyage. (Bancroft, H., History of the Northwest Coast, Vol. 1, 1884, p. 275.) (Transcript of original in Provincial Archives, B.C.) Herzsert, Hon. and Revd. Re Hookera & Brodiaea. (Botan. Reg., Vol. XXX.) 1844. Home, EverArD, and Menzies, ARCHIBALD. A description of the anatomy of the sea otter. (In Royal Society, Philosophical Transactions. London, 1796.) 12 Menzies’ Journal. Hooker, W. J. The Botanical Miscellany, Vol. 1. 1830. Flora Boreali-Americana. 2v.,Q. London, 1829- 1840. A brief memoir of the life of Mr. David Douglas, with extracts from his letters. (Companion to the Botanical Magazine. London.) — Journal kept by David Douglas during his travels in North America, 1823-1827. London, 1914. See Botanical Magazine. 1855. Hoskins, JoHN. Narrative of a voyage to the northwest coast of America and China on trade discovery, per- formed in the ship “ Columbia Rediviva,” 1790-93. (Transcript in Provincial Archives, B.C.) Howay, F. W. The dog hair blankets of the coast Salish. Seattle, 1918. (Wash. Hist. Quarterly, Vol. IX., 1918.) Some remarks upon the New Vancouver Journal. Seattle. (Wash. Hist. Quarterly, Vol. VI., 1915.) The voyage of the Hope. Seattle. (Wash. Hist. Quarterly, Vol. XI., 1920.) See also under Boit, J.; Scholefield, E. O. S. INGRAHAM, JosEPH. Journal of the voyage of the Brigan- tine oper!) 5. Pt 790-1792: Journat of Captain Cook’s last voyage to the Pacific ocean. London, 1781. Joyce, A. T. Handbook to the Ethnographical Collections at the British Museum. London, 1910. Kane, Pauu. Wanderings of an artist among the Indians of North America... . 455 pp., ilus., 8 pl) mape tab. O. London. Longmans, 1859. KissELL, Mary L. A new type of spinning in North America. (In American Anthropologist, new ser., XVIII., No. 2, 1916.) ; Aboriginal American weaving. (In National Asso- ciation of Cotton Manufacturers, Transactions. Bos- ton, 1910.) KRASCHENINNIKOFF, S. P. History of Kamchatka and the Kurilski Islands. . . .. trans. by James Gmeve: 280+[8] pp., 5 pl., 2 maps, Q. Gloucester. Jefferys, 1764. Bibliography. Lamesert, A. B. A description of the genus Pinus. Folio. London, 1803. A description of the genus Pinus. 2 v. and atlas, Q. London, 1832. (Quoted by Hooker, Flor. Bor., II.) LepyarD, JoHN. Journal of Captain Cook’s last voyage. Hartford (Connecticut), 1783. Manninc, W. R. The Nootka Sound controversy. (In Amer. Hist. Association. Annual report for the year 1904. Washington, 1905. Pp. 279-478.) MEANy, Epmonp §S., ed. A new Vancouver journal, annotated by E. S. Meany. (Wash. Hist. Quarterly, April, July, Oct., 1914, and Jan., 1915. Seattle, 1914- 15.) (Part of a journal of the voyage of H.M.S. “Chatham ” from March to October, 1792.) A new Vancouver journal on the discovery of Puget Sound. Seattle, 1915. (A reprint in separate form, with an introd. and additional notes by Professor Meany. ) MEareEs’s voyage from China to America; review of. (In The Monthly Review, Vol. IV. London (85). London, 1791.) MEEHAN, Tuos. The plants of Lewis and Clark’s Expedi- tion across the continent, 1804-1806. (Proceedings Acad. Nat. Sciences of Philadelphia, 1898.) Menzies, ARCHIBALD. Descriptions of three new animals found in the Pacific ocean. (In Linnean Soc. Trans- actions, Vol. I. London, 1891.) A new arrangement of the Genus Polytrichum &c. Also some corrections of the general description of Polytrichum Rubellum, with an account of another new species of the same genus. (In Linnean Soc. Trans- actions, Vol. IV. London, 1798.) Some account of an ascent and barometrical measure- ment of Wha-ra-rai, a mountain in the Island of Owhy- hee; extracted from the MS. Journal of Archibald Menzies, Esq., F.L.S. (In The Magazine of Natural History, Vols. I. and II. London, 1829.) [and Home]. A description of the anatomy of the Sea Otter. (Royal Socy. Philosophical Transactions. London, 1796.) Menzies, Davin P. The Red and White book of Menzies. Ports., illus. Glasgow, 1894. 159 Menzies’ Journal. Mozino, JosEpH Mariano. Noticias de Nutka; diccionario de la lengua de los Nutkeses y descripcion del Volcan de Tuxtla. cix.t117 pp. O. Mexico, Imprenta y Fototipia de la Secretaria de Fomento, 1913. (Sociedad Mexicana de Geografia y Estadistica.) Murray, ANDREW. Report of the Oregon Committee on the Botanical Expedition to Oregon. ? Edinburgh, 1853. NEWcOMBE, CHARLES FREDERIC. In the tracts of Captain Ingraham; a lecture before the Natural History Society of B.C. Daily Colonist, Victoria, B.C., Jan. 26th & Feb. roth, 1904. (Gives Ingraham’s denial of Ken- drick’s circumnavigation of Vancouver Island.) ——_—— Guide to the Anthropological Collection in the Pro- vincial Museum, Victoria, B.C. (Plate 23, Blankets and Blanket-making. From paintings by Paul Kane in the collection of Sir E. B. Osler, Toronto.) — Vancouver’s Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island; a lecture before the Natural History Society of B.C. Daily Times, Victoria, B.C., Nov. 16th, 1909. —— — The First Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Memoir No. 1. Archives of British Columbia, Vic- totia,, B:C., 19014. NuttTatt, Tuomas. North American sylva. 3 v., Q. Philadelphia, 1842-49. PENNANT, Tuomas. Arctic zoology. Vol. I. London, 1784. Piper, CHARLES VANCOUVER. Flora of the state of Wash- ington. 637 pp., front., 19 pl., 3 maps, O. Wash. Govt., 1906. (Smithsonian Institution. U.S. National Museum. Contributions from the U. S. National Herbarium, Vol. XI.) Pursu, FrepertcK. Flora Americae Septentrionalis. 2 v. London, 1814. Reap, Sir Cuartes H. Account of a collection of ethno- graphical specimens formed during Vancouver’s voyage in the Pacific ocean. (In Anthropological Institute. Journal, XXI., No. 2. London, 1891.) Bibliography. Rees, ABRAHAM. Cyclopedia; or, universal dictionary of Arts, Sciences and Literature. 39 v. London, 1819- 20. RiIcHARDSON, Str JoHN. Fauna Boreali-Americana. Vol. 1., Mammalia. 4to. London, 1829. Sauisspury, R. A. Paradisus Londinensis. 2v., 4to. Lon- don, 1806-1819. SCHOLEFIELD, E. O. S., and Howay, F. W. British Colum- bia. 4 v. Vancouver, Clarke, 1914. (Vol. 1, Early Exploration. ) Scouter, JoHN. Voyage to the Pacific ocean. (In Edin- burgh Journal of Science, Vols. V. and VI., 1826-27. — — Journal of a voyage to N.W. America. Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society, Vol. VI., 1905. (In the editorial Prefatory Notes to the “ Literary Remains of David Douglas, Botanist of the Oregon Country,” Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society, Vol. V., 1904, p. 215, it is stated that this journal had never before been published according to the Editor’s belief, and Hemenway (ibid., p. 209) speaks of the journal being still in manuscript. A comparison of the two renderings of the journal shows that they only differ in minor details, such as the spelling of scientific names, but each contains information not common to both. Mr. Hemenway’s assertion that Scouler “ visited almost every accessible bay or inlet which he passed ” is very far from being supported by the entries in the journal.) SmitH, Epwarp. The life of Sir Joseph Banks. xvi., 348 pp., front. (port.), 10 pl., 6 ports., O. London. Lane, I9gII. Smitu, Sir JAMEs Epwarp. Icones plantarum hactenus ineditae. London, 1791. — Introduction to the study of botany. London. — See Linnean Society Transactions, Vol. X. London, I8it. SupwortH, G. B. Trees of the Pacific slope. (In U.S.: Dept. of Agri., Forest Service. Washington, 1908.) Swan, J.G. The Indians of Cape Flattery. (Smithsonian Contr. to Knowledge, 220.) Washington, 1869. 161 162 Menszstes’ Journal. WarreE, H. J. Sketches of North America and the Oregon Territory. 5 p., 20 pl., map, F. London. Dickinson, c. 1848. WILKES, CHARLES. Narrative of the U.S. exploring expe- dition. 5 v. and atlas., illus., 12 ports., 52 pl., 13 maps, tab. Q. Philadelphia. Lea, 1845. Witson, Captain. Report on the Indian tribes inhabiting the country in the vicinity of the Forty-ninth parallel of North latitude. (In Ethnological Society of London, Transactions, n.s. London, 1866. Vol. IV., pp. 275- 332.) Maps and Charts. MAPS AND CHARTS. Charts showing the Intricate Channels followed by Vancouver’s Ships in 1792. A. British ADMIRALTY CHARTS: No. 2689. Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound. » 579. Fraser River to N.E. point of Texada Island. » 590. N.E. point of Texada Island to Broughton Strait. » 561. Johnstone and Broughton’s Straits. » 1923. B—Cape Caution to Port Simpson, south portion. B. U.S. Coast AND GEODETIC SURVEY: No. 6403. Port Discovery and Washington Harbour. 6450. Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound to Seattle. 6460. Puget Sound. Seattle to Olympia. 6380. Washington Sound. DALRYMPLE, ALEXANDER. Charts of the North West Coast of America. London, 1789-91. Amongst these are :— 1787. JOHNSTONE, JAMES. Plans & sketches of Port Etches, Prince Williams Sound, Alaska. Calamity Harbour, Banks Island, B.C. Rose’s Harbour, Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Port Brooks, Vancouver Island. 1788. DUNCAN, CHARLES. Port Stephens, Principe Channel, B.C. Millbank Sound, B.C. Port Safety, Calvert Island, B.C. Luxoena Bay, Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Etches Sound, Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Ahouset, Vancouver Island, B.C. Entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 1786. HANNA, JAMES. Part of the N.W. Coast of America. WEDGBROUGH. Track of the Snow “ Experiment” in com- }. pany with the “ Captain Cook.” 163 164 Menzies’ Journal. ArrowsmitH, A. A map exhibiting all the new discoveries in the interior parts of North America. Jan. I., 1795. (Shows most of the places on the N.W. Coast which were surveyed by Johnstone and Duncan in the Prince of Wales and the Princess Royal under Colnett in 1787-88. It is perhaps the first map published indicat- ing the Columbia River and a reproduction of Quim- per’s survey. Some of the information was probably afforded by Commander Broughton on his return to England in 1793. SS ee INDEX. (Nore.—The spelling in Menzies’ M.S. has been retained.) PAGE. PAGE. A oon stipes bthdie ts int ua DED BP AL ABCATE Ades «slat boas oaa aan 37, 54 metive (ship) 55, 107,:123 i... 0. LAA eB CEL SPITICOs Uist e fae nae ee 21,4192 eratUN DRIVEL. 05 Sas a xtafaeinormaears So) [veibhowrapliy 2<5 ci. forks avon 156 Addenbroke, Mount ............. 68)! Biographical Note) >... seeks Vii. Mmmm ANe GEN ICG 55 cei oisia;0)c-a'soia Gare ECON 5 air cln edd icles tame ac eae 69 Ae We Pe ol oe. AS 4, 40, 5%. S20 060) irck, blade s,s «assed eee beeen maventure. (Ship) .....%.. 2... TAS AZ 5 Bice Bays. cic nate 53, 54/62; 63 MERITS tba Lag donde tat giaveie nen in| Mir el-Nets):. ss ess eae de a 153 PACD VTCHAMOCETOS: . asics sieves oma cs Att PEE EADS dic abcoeK caso aunts 1 fay PMIGEr\ VAMETICAMN: 2... 50st eos ZON PAO A BIN GStn) o's atic. hip it ces eee ere oe eae 64 ERR osc Be was hoes ree o 51. ea) Blaeeprre es oo i Ue ee ae a eee, 30 PARTIC ELSON USland: isis 5» fesieciles oe 59) Blateo Cape, 2.64 eee 8107 it Andromeda coerulea ............. 75 i PACetS vesy as ee ee 58, 118, 153 Anthericum Calyculatum ......... 76° |) Botanical Appendix... 4.55405. 132 PerMTIMO SLATS S25) fote)h drow aserais aicrers Gl’) Broughton: ‘Me. 3. siaiLaweteee 44 Anuwl Mountain ........0.0...00 G8) | Boundary Bayt io.0 as vas alee 60 CA SUT IS A a A122 Bowen lsland) so. x-5.s se cee 61 Aranzaza (ship) ..... PO AAA: MIDS eS wie wi ee 35; 36,72; 77,88 Arbor Vitae, American ........ Or. BFP SE ytes; AE Ole 24 bi ok te iat 2s cee 94 PEMEENUEE IT SWtleys Syh she Sos 0 Sloveiceaeie are SVL COND LASS Ia ricetisl aac tiTe ee eee 41 IMURELIES FLED. v-. <,s cia cw ds athens eis AON Braya IMG Ae Aes te ete re eee 121 fmerontus, Oriental ....0...656\<0 AQ), | Brettell/ Point. yey ee ee 68 WAFACG CANGdenstS. 2.2... cic ics se St erodgiton:Eient:\.selcese leer PAR EREPESEE GAS o/h 9 Sa crpraih on aie Atteo eels 51 ....Xvi., 31, 42, 44, 46, 50, 51, 54, Bremomaul (ship) fe. .00 5.5. vaca 122 55, 75, 90, 91, 92, 93, 95, 115, 118, 130 bo AG Coe ee ee 72 | Broughton’s Archipelago ......... 90 MEERA ic: «.¢ Sa sei en'e Sap ie fai deals Gos) Pee ROG Ener ss Pei tls ew ee see ae ae 41 PRG HOP AINGLICATM: 4. 2 o acucisroe e cis os 34 saGe | Wealrashesuce waste as ee 40, 42, 59 PSL POIVEONITIEATIY oa i cc's cis ate os ee ae 34 | Burial Customs, Indian. .21, 22, 56, 83 AG Gk SRS A eee eee eae A3'") Barkei Channel’ <5.2.5..)eee 99, 101, 102 PMBRISCALICE) (CSIIT)) vaya iste nie eros arate Vilit. | Buprard.cinletic siete aes secu ae 60, 62 MMs oad oz «o's an wale a dh UR Re Ao P Bute Inlety. svds ce 2. leaae acon 71 Auraucaria Imbricata ............ xi. | Butterworth (ship) .......... 124, 129 OG ER Se a 28, 18) 1 Bittous 23/023 dee. ee oe sic 34, 35, 87 eaicer pWMOUnt <2. Seine es 17, 48, 53, 57 | Caamano, Lieut. ....120, 123, 127, 128 JS CEG See a ix. | Cactus opuntte wovie ivi cecs: xviii, 31 anes sit JOSEPH. 0 .\es vslamiscsles « Vit... Call Greeleeas te sean oe 90 DEIMMRMN Cae Si nah see tee oe cite a 49 . | Galvert’s: Island sci oS aes 98, 103 SCE LS (ig en og OPE pena 42, 96 | Camano. See Caamano Gata KeOMiti. cae uc ees os cus es 25: Ganoe~ burials: oscciee wee FSG PEAGICOUS tera, Like Cue ee eer eS LARS 7 sh ey be egy Maas PORTE 83 ibaa ky SP ee ie eed 71; 83, G7, 102, 118; | Gane: Split Roeke < i..c cc. ak 105, 106 166 PAGE. Cardero) Channel.) 74, 78, 79 Caroline MOSSE) cause Al ae 49 GaneiPoint setae ake 18 Garrasconwiistende ds nei dears suis 18 GascadenCovel sien ie eee a as 75 Gascarassagrada momento sty 28 ase Trnlet ey atk Me fee tere \be ys as 59 Castillo de San Miguel ;).....'.).... 106 Carhlasees nny riaetts see 86, 88 Wedan Grantee cava den eeee ene 58 GedarMRe dyes pees tet nisie Be 57 Ghanmnelislislamd) se. ete eae 68 Chatham a(ship)) hie coe eee ne XV., 31, 42, 46, 50, 51, 52, 55, 56, 57, 62, 65, 85, 89, 90, 91, 95, 96, 104, 107, Me eS 121 23) ZA 125) 126) 30 ASneit treenar ys ci nh SUL Me SUN 43, 44 Cheslakee's Village...) oe.\s. os 87 ORPHANS SU Oe GAOL BR 22 Chinese qnoney, ie yaa eos 29 Callami people seh neice eee 21 Ol aS ee On oe Seg 34, 58, 76 GlansetyCapesrcnia sank otene ae 16 Clarencen(Straiiyac oe. ete ce 120 Classet. See Clanset. Otay cOmia has ot peice enacts. erties 23 Cine slardint soba re ies np a a, 75 Gloigpiat ass ce ee eel oe ces kes 14 CAGE NE Joc siete oe 43, 58, 80, 88, 118 lover=fGOts)) Mitt ceyasitcieeee ne 116 RELIST eee veN ned ie eal eaaals he Se 87 Cock Spur Thorn, American ..... 83 Colnett: Gaptain: 2 )).5/2s\si. Babble Ohio | VAL Colonet. See Colnett. Columbia iCship yet yok Ey mI ONES fe 13, 14, 16, 124, 125, 126 Comano, Lieut. See Caamano, Lieut. Commencement Bay ............. 43 @onception j(Ship).. 2) gas seek ae 55 Cook; Captain oe 20 34). 86, 105, 130, 131 O05 1S aL SRE OARS aA EP a EL ...04, 35, 41, 43, 71, 88, 102, 114, 118 Cornus) Suectca ie Lae as 100 GOtiws SCOF PANES 6c) ie ikon eka: 22 (COV er IN aT AEA Mie abe 35 Menzies’ Journal. PAGE. Cox dslane i iui e en a mae eg 105 Grabvap ple Bia icvera eee rete de 20 Grabs \Cinust)) eias a5 uae ee oe 49 CGyaned Mee arscse orcas pee eee 30, 51 @rane Sandhill tee eee eee 23 Granstoun Alexander ya sceeen oe 121 Crowolsland! as ee aaecmee eee oe 35 Growsieaeieiek tesco eee 30, 34 Guprantsy aie ec veer ee 49 Gugrants ei blackae ene eer 99 Cushman Pointe sce seen eee be 40 Gyoressilsland ieee eee eee ee 46 Cypropedium bulbosom .......... 20 Dabope Bay Ailveer aoeee asec ae 27 Dana Passagver sy ieuseeeeeoee 39 Deception Pass))ihii doesn eee 52 Deep (Bayi s jute cue ea eee 66 Deer ee ean is fave aren Me 37,512.75, 194 Derhucay Straitsy\0ce ec nee 39) 47, 55; 78, 103,'123,,126, 128. tae Desertersmlsiands eacere recess O4 Wesolation’ Jeach “Asien eee ee 75, St Desolation Sound <2 5-056 64, 66, 114 Destruction, island) eee eee 13 Detention Rivulet ......:.....0-- 99 Disapointment, (Cape (22.5322. 348% 12 Discovery (Ship) ees eeeeeeee ix., XV, 91; /52,\55, 162, 64,169, 7s aes 90; 91,92, 94,102, 103, 112; 113; 115, 121, 124, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130 Discovery Passage ......... 77, 81, 84 Discov.eryasbontiereia ee 18-22-30 5a LD hig ei eel MSPS Pieces Cate Cin ie Aan a (F 34 Dobsontauhosw eyes nee en erate a, Doedaliusm (ship) yeep earaeae nee A ae 102; 110; 111,.114, 121, 124,188 DO GHROSE Mee cee atch oe sclok ee 49 Dog-wood) seen eee ae eee 49 GES S Sater teil nigel Ges aAeae a 58 Doublewistand: Ries Weer 68 Dragon ROcksiat senna 8 Drosera rotund tfolia ........... 76 LD eT) ce Ray CANO nen SiS bart G aac 30 Diathns Robert eee aceedete 122 DuncanwmCaptainy eee eee xiv. Index 167 PAGE. PAGE. EMTS ho 2)» 55 wind Sd piele xine eee OO. Ny, Gabbe Pongti os es aebe os a ee wee 20 Ra ok ys weds desk cewet Fae | WAR WOTES hos Bari uk dlstecAt comes 24 NS 4.3 ow diac oe we cha sees AO | Gooch, Myr. Woy 4:2 Sas 103, 107, 109 Mea CADtA o.oo vac rlseere sie. RO7 AW Sraceberriess.. ios asus tee yee 49, 76 REET oa kd vcd ba daleeke Yas Be | Marave: Calg) Sii2 is bot eee nee aoe 125 SOO i ee a 4A Moray.) B. Robert: ) 200i sen 13, 14, 124 BNE RR OTIFIES sain 5d p's oy ein secalele’e po a Ab G70 a Oe |) OS pe Se 10 Empetrum Nigrum. See Crowberry 100 | Grenville, Lord ............... 1K Kes [EL Tate Tt RIE ROS a Se a ed Be a ME OTISE: |S acets iad aia sei oa ee ce Re al 75 Escheverea. See Echeverria, Atanasio. | Hadlock, Port ................0.- 24 maperanza. Inlet, ..65.6.5.060 see: BA Mba leo ey Wn ee Mae we re 99, 103 MMIC NET: 0%). ae ala kaeacwolee Viti. x09.) Eralevon: (ship) 3.5.42 2sclaceebees 124 Pannorogical Notes) . 66.2.2. s00 ses ASO Oy EAGMDUE® oxy Sosa 3 3b eal oes een 58 NNER CEETIED «55 A ccarchcty oboe isa vote Oly) 22), delaiaa, : Castata 2 bs evict ee ee 98 Bemermce olay nye iat ds be beso AAS MEAT Ap aN tauttert teeeretts: Seek tae 114, 115 falda Fee Island \....4..006./.4,. O8 4) Hantock' (ship). :'s2a0. 053 faces 125 Felice Aventura (ship) .......... 125 vi Hanno. POU is. oa2= ad aes 27 0 ORC) i) 122, 225). al Eiansog tstaad: os kava eens 89 0 0 ER eats a ee AQNIS2 7 |\RElartstene.lslatidi¢ sane eae 39, 40 Fidalgo, Lieut. ...... 1235126; 127:).129) ||) Hlavanunah Channel 93-52 aoe | 85, 90 met assage or Sound’ ....90, 91, 93 | Hazel oo... ceccce cs ceunces 27, 49 RRIPMNOMOR ET. oo kata don he eee sae AQ Tp blemloclcs 1s sucks aca See eee 92 TM lic Ot get le ed BS ch PELCMENETG iis clactas tcc woke deed eens 93 Bae MEIASTE fe Socal Uc nhc 6 22 | Hergist, Lieut. Rieh'd ...25..0253 PHPARUSM SOUNG 6.665 conc sod OVA AGT Cad a tee Weed | aes raeke 103, 107, 108, 109, 114 BeRRRREN MOADES 5. ooo oven oak. By A OCESANINS, tunisia eg oatanhomen aoa 72 MEIMIM UNS IES o ooa's & pasion’ a welaen 66 Ul tiomiray Charred. ool nou ln wa 68 Floopannanoo, Chief ............ Lisl arog &, Gangs tis sees) ore 27 omte, Admiral de...20......5.4- 120% |ilope: (ship) see e eee 122, 1265, 1351 OD 9 a Sql Hope tsland) track eh fe nae oe 40, 125 PPA MERINE, PIG 25s 5 o.0) pace wie sl ence vii, | Howe, Sound) Qe ects ee 61 Foulweather Bluff ......... 27, 29, 46 | Huckleberry, Evergreen ......... 27 Moulweather Point ».. 060... 0<6+. 25\\| sRUGsoe Pett ios we ae ante 23 IP GSE 5 Aa ee AE en UP 3b a Jot) EAtpheies: Mire tisk ake e oueee 67 ON Oe fn ae ahr an 60° | Hydrolamus Collies i os') es en 22 Friendly Cove........ 5.) LOG E20 cb 20 i Morea arias ee st ea 122, 127 Galiano, Don Dionisio Alcala..... Ingram. See Ingraham. OG ee CE BORE ee A Eel BBs G2,s OA) Ee Oia 22 kasd ae a ack re ea Le ae ieambier) Islands 2 hod. sn vets dee 6} Gdackall> (shin)... 5. 122, 124, 126, 129 SeAPMMIOD. PONE: icscav.cc ed on AG. AGS 2! ae eone Ger meta baat ier ae IZA <123 Gaultheria fruticosa .........2.45 49 | Jenny (ship) ....... 113, 124, 128, 131 Ne Ge UP 2s Feo ao uiy.a works 3) |) Remerson {Cshin) 3.00 ene cau daowe 125 Seeumey ISAM iis heii veo naces AAS Tera MOR oa eM et es 61, 62 Raseceiay Sttait Of! . cs) cables cs 52) -@ | Johvstore,; James. 2.2.2<5..2 bel XVii. Gemudie (ship) ...55...06055. 55, 124 |} Johmstone’s decoy... 0...) ei cc 24 168 Menzies Journal. PAGE PAGE Johnstone's treights ./.55./eaee. « Marrowstone Point eit ohio 46 WS SHIA SARE ates Gente SI 8485.86) 14 Martinez \.1a./5'. 6 stidins os hemes pan eee Juan de Fuca Straits’... 2.2... 15. loys Mary (dstand: iyo wake ceiabe 66 Re ease inh Aer ctadecaynve Mae heim ays LOO Mati Island) Sac cyanea aoe 57 iMenGickyCantainmsesracen site st 14 Matilda tship)) 6 vances elke oa 112 Iectron) Wiskand) oe/sisia aes es SOE it INES taki Seiten ata 42, 58, 59, 87, 117 1 SGrUKSEEIEC AC SIS Rr Area IAT Ne ae Zara Matveenay sactsiou scene soem eee 116 Re wralashittay ieyerd eee eats isye oiaciastetsieic OO Meas Nol tgs cise... sevstatsiel steer 14, 15 KeGvrallcatrtl eye eee oe ied aithors BOA FB2 tM als Feiss Sen sn) eos are oie seaye! street 71 Kwatlena Indian Reserve ........ MOO Micdiiers). sate ake eins sys scleral 69, 101 Rowratnalnletice uae vere srsoteyaters) at LOO) eam that 5.3) ash oish en meee 54 Bahouchere)'Channel: 2.0022. 564)... LOU Mielvalles Melani co Ole oe eves 66 ady-stipper: (False) soit s etalon 20) Nendocinos Capel igus senses 6) 7, 6 Lady Washington (ship)...... TA a2 5d Menendez’ Dom: Jelena Ns weet 107 a blavie (Vi. Francais) mise. 89, 125 | Menyanthes trifoliata ........... 76 AnCCLOP WAT atria itis wlaislistaeteie aeyatee 65: |’ Menzies’ ‘instructions | 4. 1.52 a7 oe Lk We PEGI A aye BN age MNase ay ht Ute ek ee Soa SOF Menzies’) (Bay jvaeicn selselen ode ovens 84 ewissG@hanneliasastereueieie AON) Wenzies’ Castle: 35 ).) cine eos vil. HETOHERS (esis A yal ea uate stele ate reteke £50 S| MlenziesyeSitn David) cece nee Vii. Lilium camschatcensa ......... Bi at Menzies MWalliam) J22u\.en es aur vii. Liltum Canadense .........00.-5- DLN wiieneres: Point teeacs uke ci sclektoeere 101 MAME AMIS GCIELY.necish sess oe ielatetaes xi. | Menziesia ferruginea ......... 90, 99 TAR OCH BOTEGIUS A sicts ainleeeisontes 75) IWexicania \(Siiip))' 12)5/25)9 pate\deeiae 55, 124 Lonicera Nootkagensis .......... AO Ae aN alley Ms Leary chistes. 2! abel, Vo estayetetate ste 85 Lookout, Cape ......... LG Las bed 120 Mini Wisland gat\:)s,-)40esaeee eats 66 OOM SCTASSES ola eae) deiale ie ons 71 | Monkey Puzzle tree ............. Xl Wieyes catch ll ARMM aRAn eA! ia (COR ee 1540) Morgan island is j.co\s sche cles 66 Loughborough’ Inlet 0.) si .\jas 5/4 FB INLOSSES io. cia versie euelnial SRL a puahene hae 149 Ablow OLE: oii siale esses Garena s 26 i) (Mozino, Don Josey seine aetna. Kix.) 12s Bsbhauica ipl ots geeu Mite RINE CAN aaa aia BAM Mad ges Mim Asn eleva sielete xviil., 74, 126 ADVICES Ms AW AH WeHLR aS OLA vial is Rta SA Wkwdge\iGane Ae ua av aae ane 77 ieu INTC CU Aa ee Meee c ETA 22 TAME GSW eee nye ees ae 60, 80, 88, 119 Malaspina Straitenesnce C2 NO4N GS 128 i MISSI hie jajsrsiaiay anche yoletiraietttnteye 96 Malaspini. See Malaspina. Mioyrscn Gale ioc Nk ee eal 76 Miami ey, Mirela sans wiclatekctale BOG 2 2G tiivINaalG he oie rae de ecu 28 ean ie ae V2 Mia pl ewpsie linens vib ike rials 6860) 742 101) Wannacoas, Chief)... iurouae sists N27, Maple Miountainunwoemccnlercicc ce AOMINAtIVES ivan ee ee meer tees 30, 34, 58 Maple, Pensylvanian .........+:-. AQ Navigation mins-cs a0 aap ena s OO; Das meee MaplemSiganie a ncanininasertcnieae cr AO Nicealay Baryiiers lve aelaterlohalseketalate LowuZs INMaplEREneesi Ve) wvscisrmaa eran etse PROV TENIN SSH LR SA Dncg li taeet ARS PaaS cee 110 Maplelnsy Camoney sus) saieldesieleae 20 MAN Elson se Davidse ae eae eet Xvii. IMS Ca ko aba WER dW ai NRA he che OM A IN GEELES ery Sica Me Mame el es aes 53 Sa ae SO 4 5 aS NO. 0: a27 Neville, Poet i). sith iiessemtey cela eas Margaret (ship) ..... MOQ AQA aMeS 1s i iNew gad bIOn 3 i4)chsl- Huiaiieve we eey aa eteles 4 MP aT Me PA oe lak eeianiehe Wotan coals L51cNew, WO un enessy sir selerelekeern eee 17 Index. PAGE. POON CANTAILY ci. sina a isieiclece cies 9 107, 108 New Georgia ....... 45, 48, 73, 84, 90 Memo rash. Village <....66enscerese 87 TE TTOOLEMCULITINIINUE, 0c a ra,a'n sye'e. sla vieyo.wzeore 74 Mredwally Reach) oye... .s cesses 39, 41 HPCOIIAINY SIRIVEN, sca giciccos « stelle ex 39 SERIA RIO TALS! n58 cv alieiciats a's eo Shee 39 imran GHannel os): cc ccs cee vas 80 IISUIG IN CSIRID')) ‘s\5.5 o's a/0' and fas ote Vill PIRES 6! vg ac: 5's 0's 034 39, 55, 64, 65, 79, 80, 81, 83, 87, 88, 94, 102, 106, 130 INootkdlanguage’. i. s..5..- 30, 84, 86 MIO GAONA: ss ilcasascce ee'e e's eo 123 TING GOVE ais ssc a's asker a drwy os 84 EMER tr ote) ct i'n dan, ws hee 26, 29, 45, 49 MEIVED | 5 aia a'slavia telelv lide 26, 46, 49 ROMEVINGIOES ASI cs cic ale vd sie elo corel 92 Observatory ...... SEUSS eR JUL Oe, SEO MED ALIN cic/le's oe ec) 4 408 wre Jobe 65 Mivenpiis, Mount. 2... 4.00.0 c 5 15 MOTTON WTLG fs csv dictevevehoicierereeve & Sie 54 i eee ee eee 2 Mybeas sland: voce se cieie sicids ee ers 50, 59 MRMTMMOABE: peg foe's saa oe ge 8 10 Ortolus phoenicius .........0000. 30 LES TASTE A 16, 38 ROUSCEL-—CALCHETS) 0035. /cec scale ates cnet 46 ESOL SMR Rr ete SS Ary ccts. chins eters uaete a 40 RTDs 21h aly rus dieprbesinis) werd 9, 83, 87 RRSAQP SOCKS. oie .0e cite deluwad old diens 98 nO a er ae 92 BGO ISIANG, oo 6 eka Ssi0 ct au how 85 BT SERREICSEN Fs 516. 0.5.0:5)0:8 Pececsietn oo 75, 84 Peril Rocks (see also Pearl Rocks) 98 PERBE Ha, GADE hc. bo laelvce sas LiesgZ BORr MERE DAIEN 5. . U.ileierla\e Vea wiewig ss 89 Philadelphus Coronarius ......... 56 MMEMEM TT TOOMIE YS hyo a relate oe algidhsie en 121 Bieweting Passage 2... .6s6aeen ee 40 OO SUE a 97 mantras ROCK Ji. icciasweve< eds 16 mete GABAGENSIS | .. icasdosueee 99 Restorations © Omics since seer 41, 42 FRAAMNUSH els Wee Seeltone sad eee eee 28 ROG: POSED Wass cn ena were 100 RUROGOGERNETON: ps ciias cero eae 20, 49 PGES kui avwe sean e Sees eee 75 170 Menzies’ Journal. PAGE PAGE Roberts, Captain) Henry 222.5 2)2.). Ves SPRUCE DEER Ia aed een nics MeN eel ioe 92 Roberts Gape manera cess GOMES Os sataxinn slander anne 40 Rose Harhousy) joss aciovek comer Rivest Square Cove: iit vate eee ones 75 ROSEMOUNT RAT Reet eee Ua u dete AA VS te wart Wit OH) apa ethel scan nae tae 122 Rubus Nootkagensis ............. AO HN Stormenesland Wi says eile eee anes 97 Satety Movie ener uwie le heh uN Ag 1020) |) Strawberry \Bay isos. se 46, 50, 51, 52 Satety Pont we ewe C ad ay au i 98 | Strawberry tree, Oriental ........ 20 St Gear ee WE OMe: oi suis veel Ps ode SH SEROUS ys sels ey Ne UNL pula a alae a ew 75 Samael ttasiine ean cake aie 24 Stuart; dislamd! oy ii). Si saheee elu 78 San Juan) Archipelago ........... AIM Stisreonwbanks eerie nee 60 BSR RCLPECEN ce! Ul cone MUNA W/L AMOR ET SNL 8 Sr yistisant PORE) ca k ueve ae ee ene nee 44 Saratozawrassagen a ween ena ASSN Slip) nee serie ce oeneae 55, 124 SETA Gey oy qh ES Er) CUA LOS YAR A PN 70) Sutles) Channel |) (ore eee tee 92 SETAE DOG: Nya Nasrevalets te cil nerseaele g STU S IW LOWESi jistecera rl arehe elenlave euevcbonet Renee 34 Scirpus occidentalis ............. SOM SvCAMIOLe coastline ates 49 Scolpinmes yes ype ies teva aha tN 22 | Syringa or Mock Orange ....... 56 SCout Surslanasyeee! a ce site wean LOSS) Pacamahac ).25.. ci aise aoe nee 49 Seam Olas ig sree crt elenalaeaet aS TS MeMas tees iia 9 ie ay We May osu ale LS eas Sea sOCkers) <0 1, 82) 105: OOWiG7o1OOy VSO GalasiS hoa a lian cau ens 114 Sea DIES Miya ienevaea Wott RON: 46.510) 61 |) Eatootche / Village’) 25.22.05) aes 15 SCaWE ed SUN He erep ame UAL LAIN va a gt Ma 150 | Terra ponderose rata ........... 27 Seal SMM eras aan We LR eRe NAIA AGi\meakerne Wari) ie aoe eee nee 70575 Seniamoo Vibay ewes sme aacle en OO) mexadal/ Tslandh 25105. eee 63 Seymour Narrows) jeu aire vacua 84 | Three Brothers (ship) ....... 124, 131 Shadweilliheassame unc awan iene OFM Ge DIICILTGH Anas ee anh eee ae 58 SST DEC RACN SPS aa DN ee TR IS eA E OF mbhynne \islandy dene ene eee 66 Shhaoystoin sine itee an mites ica Ae ASHIL: OP MUceralbrOwIy setae acre mneeetae 27 Sag Se Ae Mean ara ue anand SRO Adi bo bamtnl tic lialiaee vc aiae aye ateanaes 68 SHO THES ADDIS 2) VAM O MUM SIAL FO | MOeLem LIME E120) Nyy AN) Aa saa 40 Shepherds Wits easy Cn) kid 1020" Rowasend: Pont) (ela ise 32, 45 SHMOOMSOUNG sola ee eisely sce lets pO NAY HOM Ds eX ALA AA GAY VEN Euiny 8 oh 33 Sera yoda TAR eset eae 19) 297300), Triandria monoginay’. i). i2c ab aoe 42 Smiths Meee pai eles main an OS rangle wlsland’ sities Went 104, 105 Smiths sl andi ieee ia ke AG pe erbunes Channelmmeaeseeeeeene 91 Snow (ship)! wane eee a ah LOA NET TA ONIIE adobe al vianete aloe ate enna 116 Solanderelamd yy ian ee Gn 105 | Triglochin maritimum ........... 38 SoutheBentinekwArmi eee see LOM Erinkets hae yaaa fe aah Southileads (Gu uence clea weenie SOM Meta cage 35, 41, 59, 60, 72, 79, 83, 87, 102 SBAMiaGasn ee tenes) SUM Z0) 22002894) Prout C eut-throat i. anGscenere 52 Spanish seated sa Ny ay ele 62y buScotts Captainy sen acerca Vili. SME AESI aay aac lea ieee le HRM OLD 87) Polalip (Bay) ceil cila ue geliaha nara 45 Spiraea \serrulata ee le AO) WT ereaven: 1) JEM fs Wy eieicne aes tanln et eet eae 95 Spruce, Flemlocle viva s Ean tk 49 | Vaccinium............. 27, 89, 93, 100 Spruce, NOLWay, sis. 48 ee HENS 49 | Vaccinium lucidum ...........54- 49 SPLICE] AVVITE NL IA ral Gy ees 49 | Vaccinium tetragonum .......... 49 Index. PAGE. Valdes, Don Cayetano...55, 65, 68, 70 OUND HEC I DD rR ae 18 Vancouver, Captain ........... ail 41, 42, 43, 45, 46, 53, 59, 62, 64, 65, 81, 87, 91, 92, 93, 98, 100, 102, nos, 410)- 112° 115), 116, 118, 119, etek, 122, 5123, 1271129): 130, 131 Were IOE USAT, ars «afte eis oe eieiee sie ns 42 ICT G95 SE ee eee I Vis ROTTS SLOT EN Ma Siuss ic, ofa etd Bales 58 MGTIS EDITS) acini ag ws sate ce ce 102, 124 NVERSEISHIISTION, J. ces clcseete ces 124, 125 BRE GOIIC acs aisle + slab 4 wsalsea ee 51 Waddington Harbour ........... 72 Wagh-el as-opulth. See Wahelaa- saplilthe. Weemelaasapliithe ..3 0.6.66. s cece 127 TRISTE aN Tac. 5 syta. cla ac eisinie oistekS « 86 Megasnfon Nation. ..... 2.0.6... .0% 86 measnmicton, Sloop ...........5.. 14 LL OS 73 MC 46 Weatherhead, Captain ....... ZA GS: 171 PAGE. WYCEBI Take iidt ehatae deh mnie aie Vii. Weiltworth, hort) .sak > acie auctions 104 Wales ese ee asian becteits aaa 64, 71 WV Mant OGe tis) serra sco eines 87 Wihattleberries c+ n vec pen earns 49 VUE Dey wir inne cn heen eee S15 33, 38, 42, 44, 46, 52, 54, 57, 65, 76, 78, 81, 85, 90, 92, 93, 96, 98, 113, Whidbey’s Island Whortle berries WSO Pork oles av eae aon Whortleberries, Red Willow Sere. @ ea 2 @ ue a'd, ci ae) 8 v8 6» ee) ap ee Wolves WVodd yO POME 4: haaccanie tae ue eae Wool, fine white Woollen, blankets’. 0... simaset eee Yarn, twisted woollen Yew, Common Yuculta Rapids Yuculta Village Zostera Marina PC er de ee CM rye Cis 0. Sle Iw el.e (a a 66 are w VICTORIA, B.C.: Printed by WiLtiAM H. CuLLINn, Printer to the King’s Most Excellent Majesty. 1923. Data rs Md ie 4 ey Bae woe Reed ik mate EL GRway ad 4s ay 4) x beat eon ; AS 7 } % i ay S rt Se ec Beta 7 L i ae Oe A ry, ¥ : aa States nts s - ; ds ) MN Hf ul ifs iN) —— — ee tanical Garden Library New York Bo’ QK5 .M43 1923 gen 3 5 chibald/ Til 85 Til 00042 2285 = O04 60-6 eo Sreerassse se) = a3 Sipsabsrsry SPstaPiresetreeectireeese cree = 2 epirtseriee SriptssrsEsEstatisststtrsbiitee se pisssereee at Pada telsleretersterpretsestertrs tt tarsittett te sss srs Psst Ent (palati tease tet tes Sepebarstsrere cts eatiresat : Sieteeeer aie TIS ee Srersareperare rey: eeserbesetersrereee erePastretreeriterstcr steeatets sercr 52s ete Sese: ressisrprrtripiet stitresrete: SeSrcesri pte petare ers se eee - > +o n —— — er 5 dae aed and andibandh tad and ed ied on dh ee a int-aetbandiantbandhanah acid nl Nt SBS SES RES EEE SBE RSS = seesceteess es sessetessssassessstsistststetsssessieiiesseres sesssyssistesssessesissssiesstacetettesteestats Srpeesessrestetstsess sists Beptrisiscetpsestsrsspsrastserert sere pepesepepes os ee eee Steet eeeeetsecteteteb ebebiaes beeen es ee he Wa beeen an ben paral ees epee ree cee = Pe botses tether titel pee see pasasabnenbe nes oe eee ean oe er t eee es = Ee prey hee ene aw shee eee Salt intshahy tht oo iad jet bi e\e.4 i Deprpsretep repr eet ee ee 1 o—?=e= Sia o 78s es = > $oses ae ae ee Tee trie S Sere ee Baa ase beta t ease reeset Peeper ips ios teptpiety pp Si ee ee hn De ee at sierra sss Felts P ib a re — * Peestseseeeseeleeeeeee ze SPSS SSS Pee ast c=s>s- - - LLL Ne le tlt ee le a pedi aeed oe onek 98 t 5 te 0 4 oe bpigeesssstseter ess == == > 23 = = Pols teee = ve = TS >> + iy Settle rarer y o-s= 2 = SSS SSS SSS ees Solesgrstpesrpherptatss gop stszaprararstt aces eee re. S459: FSI estes $568 783 78; sosbprshpryrpinrststes Srarererers. Fert p esterase phot tree tere eS esos rr apap a eee Peay Ss Sa OR rae re rer een cower ee er er abe ee ee eae Sos Ss0> te e= pesteceest. steer Pye oe ae ae ee Pers tS a tsbsbcertceeeoteiotebed tates eee eee Subeteteset as eee etes ses eb eeeeeee Derr ee oe ee SSS SSS SESE pepe ee eee — SSS eee ' yt Listebaball eye brent yy sie! petesaseseseseeee esr SS eS RTO nT ERD Oe ee SE ee Eee Ee EO Te i bed eb aseee eb eee Telteeelseelee +35 Ferre tresses es esse sessile etetetetetetsses pitas ators ee et ete 8 8 0 od Pete iees tress ee tececeresetbcises setters = 856=6- ee slstaesltitststs De re stasis tte De te rable eis beh Pilg rstsrcrte ope bee ne a prensopepsp ejay SEER re Oe =o7 Tiaset eet eoretas <2 se . pists erry a == eitosecscetecossce rs testis. Leeann oe babe reese pee eereee ioe resi po babasadeseeee ee -2- esaeeee exes Peetetetee eee Speen et eer eee ree neers rst ete st stages) phe bp rae nas hte eae Teese ters isis 5054 —1--40= athe Srrirsrpeye ese tet eben eee i bl 5sis23 — 4 oe ee ape Ses te SSeS pe Pee ee oe SIS SSS es $3232355555552 peetee eee 933535555 Seen Ot Oe ete ee 252 > .— 76 —e—e— > 5o se se Reseaeeesesseeaesss SSteer =3>s> 333 ppesesieeetrosssiceses pres esr areas > eeseiies. = 33> rtst estar sae esla> Shae bsotes ts st Shree bits ts Ps> eeapetaseretetrtreapeererantrt eee rere rae retsien LL Sesrerprsrere ante rs saree e638 Sa ea by Se. Pebveser bebe srarsapeee ieee rer necee sigtststrrsbstetstcrstetete Srptttirara> ee ba rs rseeie rs eietpisteisistete i siete Fats. hese =<; Se bshebarsrerarsetre. Sb erstehths tse esters re Rescetesscsessseiestss Fetsosesesrsasrstpberstetsteter ety Serpe rer srsrenteeeter ee e Siacsivtets sete trite sitet Slatesiteletetetecatiteteteei atleast iigee peagasstacs: Seelsrebsrereta beste este. sizes s: rie = Sass Street; plateteeteteteie esse seis . = -7S70-e- ese ere tre ett at Ot 070 4 5s eres IS a ee. 32323 5252507 270705052 eiseeers Pe tatste ts tsteis: aicese- sepa te pi eiere rte ah os 88 8 5 8 os hws we h seeh ae ee en eetees t i ee itis blah Sarna > = > Sepeeeerpesennpeeoe riot : 353535 Sirte siete tetetete > Brpishseseseshpetepese S044 6 =8 2 spp thre peewee yee reey -< pips: . > ei eberseee a et es eieserespee => Pesperbecs Ao 85g tetstetets tei tet : el bcbidlelels eebsiese ete iat tere “Ss S55555°2225=22 abt ea babs le be Prob ibe ttrnss anesthe ter hie Sipbarsree ape peter pete ee pene epee taper pe aressrseebpeeoeeeet bebe bebe bere Pasepeepeshepipiseprpie tiene ed pat 008 086 O oe =. +533 ba tO — ta 48 a ststs> Peele eeteepepepertpbresrseste bs reste er eebi ee wees Spee hets heme rsrsapeaes tre rte tees Pp rebert hs. sabtiaesetsscee pierereberer serps rere. pres tpg pie Seaet etre rse pte so5¢ pe tse ore ems 55 SP RRs aera ree aren sree eee TOs O— emt re +5441 ; ' t + ' 7 tere bj ? ii iets sripicisire Ss tit ty Seress ‘ bet +3 ihbhteinial eriaiiis oi if ue ieieiaial. diabey bad binieeel epererret iS th = bao a . > iets 5% 0 424 0 — 6 6 8 6 40 0 a a eee bey Parad Boy Sere tes ets tee Tesi eas a rtreos ae Pe SSeS Sea Seis a ttt es 5 O88 — 65 siegasees eestsstseleiste tele s: Sraterete. tigasespenpeese = > tts tst reiceeses Prat: roses etats aaed bee cewe tse rset core tetates Seretersraeess sesesesesestsss Stiresessese: (were tests SSS Byactebetaretece pasesisetesstatesecssssssriisrisiesiisiiisisietisetisiaisiee ssi ie es SRS tes sellers ete eee= ane eee eee ‘ by te SS pers see aa Sorat —- or ae ee PetsoorePetararere ee aess +> os poses eo 6-6 6 @ +e s— prizraprispepeseia peste i ; i * > - ~4 = — 02 —e- << + > r ve SV ese a resale 4 = = int ase ee 2 SeSesetelesess 05 <= > oan _anbebaae poe * Sots ese Setters Sosa preree ke tapes ciel peebyraneepeaeses Ss 2 #8 Sea e tess + SPST iste = Sets tisrisit 3 Sr epiirihtape: stat iret ey = = prpipprstity Sere tetetesatessPeroebiss sist rerasss ts 3535 <-e— ~~ o—o- ae ee 2533 > <2 =. Pabee ee = tebe bets 33 < Test ibad it bid +4} hr Li Aishbloreieit ving ri io yeeh i < it) 7 3 HE ony tiated 1 i 4) ; tity pore teaticl eit ae sree * ' Why § 7] meistty eee + zi ert ‘ bolo Sieteletsietste. 3 pe actrsneteretasesetetes i tit i? At 14)49! bia reress feieiess hele! jay es ! S| t ; } otsiers ots stete setetetee seit i ee sre eset BSS at stats tes: Sc tesss siatetessees Leese te eeleeeeee » ~ sie! rere + , tite} Seles erate els stata ates eeseaeteeeste eee SS peeae ee es 2 ee ee ee Pe telete tate ete ate tie eee tS at Bee ote teeasseet ee sesie te tseses iss: SS Besse ees AThralasa eftie