oe: BARTLETT'S ERSONAL NARRATIVE. VOL. IL. # { | ft ; 4 4 L j 4 PERSONAL NARRATIVE \ OF EXPLORATIONS AND INCIDENTS IN TEXAS, NEW MEXICO, CALIFORNIA, SONORA, — AND CHIHUAHUA, CONNECTED WITH THE UNITED STATES AND MEXICAN BOUNDARY COMMISSION, DURING THE YEARS 1850, 51, 52, AND °38, a Oo JOHN RUSSELL BARTLETT, UNITED STATES COMMISSIONER DURING THAT PERIOD, IN TWO VOLUMES, WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. IL MISSOURI BOTANICAL © ARDEN: . NEW YORK: D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 346 & 348 BROADWAY, AND 16 LITTLE BRITAIN, LONDON. M.DCCC.LIV. ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by Tn the Maxvbis AE fan Nyistetnt 71 _D. APPLETON & COMPANY, t of the United States for the Southern District of New York, Se Peete Pa ee Me he RW eo ee eee ee 7 ee ad CONTENTS OF SECOND VOLUME. FOURTH DIVISION. JOURNEYS AND INCIDENTS IN CALIFORNIA, CHAPTER XXII SAN DIEGO TO NAPA VALLEY. PAGE Arrival of Dr. Webb and his party—Dr. Webb’s report of his journey— State of the a of the ee of wages —Diegeno Indians—Whana Indians—Leave for San Francisco—Its fin harbor—Extensive commerce—Great astivity and enterprise of its peo- ple—Origin of its name—Contrast between the wants of the Californians in 1770 and 1850—Trip to the Geysers—Benicia—Application to Gen. Hitcheock for an escort to the Commission on its journey back—Val- lejo—Napa village—Napa valley—Its beauty and fertility—Mr. Yaunt —His history—Red-wood trees—Their Ese height —Eaormons aes of vegetables—Thermal springs... . : CHAPTER XXIII. THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. Mount Helena—Russian inscription—Digger Indians—Dwelli ny of fishing—Dress—Pass the mountains—Meet bear hunters—Mode ¢ cooking without utensils—Pluton River—The Geysers—Deseription , i lv CONTENTS. PAGE these ena—Effect of the water on wood—Extent of voleanic action— rn to camp—Abundance of grizzly ame ss the mountains—Return through Napa valley—Visit to the Obsidian hills rei use of this material sg the Indians—Return to San Fran- : cisco. . 5 ey Ss : : ey ee CHAPTER XXIV. THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN, er een Leave San Francisco—San Jose i ae of the soil—Mission of Santa Clara—San Jose—New Almaden—Quicksilver mine—Mode of Sepia the ore—Large tanks of quicksilver—Account of the quick- silver mines of Spain—Production of this metal in all parts of the wor 1d— Situation of the New Almaden mine—Descent into it—How ? worked—Laborers—Extent of the mine—Effect of the mercury on laborers—History of the mine—Return to San Franciseo—Captain Sut- RRO NN 8 igeet ce il Nin ie “egnecenen Wen, “ie Joe. XJ + CHAPTER XXV. RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. Leave San Franciseo—Monterey—Its pe tn ladies airies—Large herds of cattle—Vineyards and wines—Indians of the Missions—Mission of San Gabriel—Return to San Pedro—Craw fish— —Sea lions—Climate of San Diego—Visit to the Mission of San Luis Rey—Extensive buildings—Fine valley—Kechi cane = haps of) Father Peyri—Deseription of the harbor of San Diego—Viscaino’s ac- count of San Diego in 1602—Father Juniper Biers account in 1769— Society of San Diego—Initial Point and monument on the Pacific, . . 71 CONTENTS. ee be FIFTH DIVISION. SAN DIEGO TO EL PASO, ALONG THE GILA. CHAPTER XXVI. SAN DIEGO TO ALAMO MUCHO. PAGE oe for the journey to El Paso—Leave San Diego—Accident to ook’s rancho—San vie seed onareg ie ene - sins sido Indian ee, ae eped qual mountain—Difficult aseent—Reac camp at Santa Isabel—Deficiene ft i I despatched wei another Wairot—Tndigta of ‘Gants Tsabel—A Mormon arrives with wagon—List of return party—Journey resumed—Luxuriant valley— San a eiele eae mode of sac get, — pass— Vallecita—Desert appearance Carrizo cree Intense héai-—Mitia + run swig RTA and carcasses of animals— eens destruction of sheep—Utter desolation—Wagon upset—Sack- t’s well—Dig for water—Meet Lieut. Sweeney in pursuit of deserters from Fort Yuma—aArrival of bearer of despatches—Alamo Mucho. . . 109 CHAPTER XXVIL. ALAMO MUCHO TO FORT YUMA, The Desert—Dry basin—“ New River ”—Alarming news from the Train— ~ Colonel Craig’s encounter with the deserters from Fort Yuma—Report of Sergeant Se ae ebb returns in search of Colonel Craig and Sergeant Bale—Loss of wagons on the desert—Great heat—Return of pesty shai we by of Calon Oraig—Sergeant Bale’s retu Se Burial of Co. onel Craig Word. sent to San Diego—Prompt aution of Colonel peel est of the murderers by Indians, and their execution—Colonel Craig’s char- v1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. * FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. E PA Crossing of the Colorado continued—Description of Fort Yuma—tThe Colo- — ‘Facility of irrigation—Ruins of the old Spanish Missions—Difficulty of of Calfienta—Pravtented by Colonel Sista Diners of the Colo- rado in 1540 by Alarchon—Later voyages—Difficulties in navigating the Colorado—Attempt of a steamer to ascend the river—Its velocity and height—Fort Defiance—Massacre of Dr. Langdon and his party by the Yumas—Indians of the Colorado—Early tribes not identified—The Yum a of Alarchon’s —— in 1542— : Fathers Kino, Font, and Gar Sc ogee OG : CHAPTER XXIX. | FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES, Leave ess Yuma—Absence of grass along the Gila—Petahaya or Giant Cer ocks—Ex- ai heat—Night marches—Wagons found—How caches are made— Particulars of the murder of Mr. Oatman and his wife—Basin of the Gila—More sculptured rocks—Cross the Jornada—Great bend of the river—Another desert—Toilsome march—Reach the Coco-Maricopa villages. . . . Beene ah siete Secoe an a ytas , ROD PP ae se ers. Lae ee CHAPTER XXX. THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS, Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians—Camp removed to the banks of the F : zoological specimens—Villages—Houses and ecae of ncaa ore uses—Horses and cattle. . . 213 CONTENTS. vil CHAPTER XXXI. AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. PAGE Journey to the river Salinas—Its rich S aeeien a stream-—Pimo Indians—Ruined buildings—Mounds—Broken pottery—Traces of irri- val at camp—Arrival of Lieutenant Whipple—Survey of the Gila sts ta-tieal re- opened with the Coco-Maricopas—Presents—Tribe of Cawenas—Re- move to the Pimo villages—Cola Azul and the Pimos—Traffie with them—Conference—Giving presents—Arrival of Mexican traders— Return of Lieutenant Paige with the escort—Leave the villages. . . 289 CHAPTER XXXIL INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GRANDES. History of a Poon and Pimos—Origin of their semi-civilization —Difference of languages—Their number—Physical peculiarities— Diockering ah attention of Christians and philanthropists—Early ac- counts of these Indians—First described by Father Kino in 1697— Sedelmayer’s visit to them in 1744—Father Font’s in 1775—Visit to the Casas Grandes of the Gila—Description of these ruins—Evidences of a former large population—Irrigating canals—Broken pottery—Father Aztec origin of these buildings not well founded—Excessive heat, . . 261 CHAPTER XXXIIL CASAS GRANDES TO SANTA ORUZ. Leave the Gila—T. the desert a party of Ameri cans at midaight—Stopped by the sehen terest. sit Pack mules and cattle missing—Picacho mountain—Vegetation a the desert—Second night’s marech—Arrival at ise Blanco— Arrival of Mexican troops—Campaign against the Apaches—Meet Mr. Coons with 14,000 sheep—His disasters—Visit ; from General Blanco” eee vu CONTENTS. PAGE and his officers—Repairs on wagons—Tucson and its valley—Meteorite San Xavier del Bac—Beautiful RON. ge and Anglo-Saxon colo- nization—Incessant rains—Presidio of Tabac—Meet Inez Gonzales the captive girl—Her sad ices Denebtty of ir rigated lands—California emigrants—Calabasa—Picturesque sae pS cacori—San Lazaro —More emigrants—Reach Santa Cru a! Sc Liglve wikia Ree CHAPTER XXXIV. SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. Shoeing mules and repairing wagons at Santa Cruz—Standing guard—Sad ate of Inez Gonzales—Sickness of the town—Boldness of the Apaches and their constant inroads—Wretched state of the people—Leave Santa ona age assumes a new aspect—Rio San Pedro—Enter the mountains—Agua Prieta—Prepare for a fight—False alarm—Meet Colonel Garcia with Mexican n troops—Enter Guadalupe Pass—Wagon pipe aaa of the oo better route 2 cae encounter with a bear—Two eae bodies found—Open country—Reach Janos. . . . . . 814 ' CHAPTER XXXYV. JANOS TO CORRELITOS, AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. Janos, an old military post—Its decline—Aid a party of American emi- ants—A. river and its tributaries—Modern town—Return to Correlitos. . CHAPTER XXXVL CORRELITOS TO EL PASO. Leave Correlitos—Visit the silver mines of Messrs. Flotte and Zuloaga— _ Attempt of a peon to escape—Rio Santa Maria—Recent fight of Ameri- CONTENTS. 1x PAGE eans with the Apaches here—Broad open plains—Continued rain—The Salado—The Modance or Sand Hills—Painful aba mee 8 Ris La yuca—Arrival at El Paso del Norte. . SIXTH DIVISION. EL PASO TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. CHAPTER XXXVIL INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. sige 8 ations for completing the Survey of the southern boundary of New Mexico—Withdrawal of the military from El Paso—Importance of El fo as a military post—Its business—Encroachments of the Apaches —Depredations of the Comanches—Suggestions for a better protection Th “ it ee to Mec das reine er etna mines—Grand El Paso—Mail pasty a attacked by the Cantos Dei to go by way of Chihuahua—Laxity of the Mexican custom house—Departure of Lieutenant Whipple and party for the Gila—Organization of parties. 381 CHAPTER XXXVIII. EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA. Departure from El Paso—Accident at the start—Farewell to friends—San eazario—Fording the Rio Grande—Wagon upset—Guadalupe—As- cend the RR Gr sissa plains, and open country—Ojo de Lucero —Laguna de los Patos—Country overflowed—Wagon mired—More aceidents—Carrizal—Ojo Caliente—Rio Carmen—Encounter with the Apaches—A man killed—Animals lost—Ojo de ee sol- diers—Precautions to avoid a surprise—Laguna de Encinillas—El Penol—El Sauz—Rio Stramento—Batieeld Notice of the battle —Arrival at Chihuahua. . . . . + 401 ie 0 ieee x CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXIX, CHIHUAHUA AND ITS VICINITY. PAGE Repairs on wagons—Mr. Flotte and his persecutions—The road infected by —Obtain important documents relating to the boundary—Description of Chihuahua—Causes of its decline—Its mines—The expulsion of the Spaniards—Labors of the Jesuits—Aqueduct—The Cathedral—Mine of Santa Eulalia—Casa de Moneda—Commerce—How carried on—Agri- cultural products—Alfalfa and its value—Heaps of scoria—Grazing lands—The plateau—Immense herds of Paes dl of the table land—Climate—Diminutive dogs. » 424 CHAPTER XL. CHIHUAHUA TO THE RIO FLORIDO. Departure from Chihuahua—Additional eseort—Mr. Flotte with his family joi achimba—Santa Cruz—Grist mill—Smelting works—Saucil- lo—Attack of the Comanches—La Cruz—Las Garzas—Ford the Con- chas—Santa Rosalia—Its defences erected against the Americans dur- ing the war—Ramada—Rio Florido—Guajuquilla—Fertile valley— Monument to our Lady of Guadalupe—Search for meteorites—Hacien- e pelea in upset in an acequia—Hac de Concepcion-— us mass of meteoric iron—Account of meteorites in the Pepa Ss Hacienda del Rio Florid.. . . . . . 442 CHAPTER XLL RIO FLORIDO TO PARRAS, A mule kidnapped—La Noria—Cerro Gordo—Enter the State of Durango —Another escort—Miserable condition of the Mexican soldiers—-Recent battle here with the Comanches—La Zarca—Vast herds of cattle and h —La Noria de Pedrecina—Silver mines—Cuencame—Another CONTENTS. Xl PAGE escort of civilians—La Noria Curena—Rio Buenaval—Pozo Calvo— Depredations of the Comanches—Alamo de Parras—Viesca mines— La Pena—Break down—Cold seidtdiea-ol Pozo—Recent incursion of Indians—Reach Parras. . di. ce a Hes ee tee Sah ee eee ee CHAPTER XLII. PARRAS TO SALTILLO. Parras—Its vineyards—Numerous 1 ami REM ee of the Agave—Extent of its cultivation—Pulque—Hacienda Arriba—Its ex- tensive Wine vaults and gra naries— Visit to the pence i Alame- da—Departure from Parras—The Hacienda Abajo—Don Manuel de Ibarra and General Wool—-tihdnega Grande—Ceguin—Vequeria— Gigantic Se de Patos—Don Jacobo Sanchez—His large estates—Claims for indemnification on the United States—Village of con—Encentada—Arsvl of a courier with despatches from. Wash- ington—Buena Vista—The Barraneas—Ramble over the battlefield— Relics found—Reach Peg He work on a feast day—Fine church— Cotton factories—Dr. Hewison—Economical use of water. . . « 482 CHAPTER XLIIL SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS, Leave Saltillo—Accident at the start—Enter the Rinconada Pass—A night d Lo: rtos—Ampudia’s redoubt—Magnificent scenery —Hacienda of the Rinconada—Sierra Mi tra—Santa Cnbitina abst nter te ciamentos—Visit the Bishop’s palace—Beautiful valley—The ues parca of the city—Its climate—Elevation—Departure—Marin— mos—Carrizitos—Dense chapporal—Miss the road—Cerralvo—Pun- lushie-Pa d road—Mier—Trade for serapes—Texan Mier expedition —Character of the Rio Grande above Mier—Ascent of a steamboat to Loredo—Ancient oyster beds—Rio San Juan—Mexican e—Ca- margo—Cross the Rio Grande—Arrival at Ringgold barracks. . . . 499 CHAPTER XLIV. RINGGOLD BARRACKS TO CORPUS CHRISTL Rio Grande surveying parties—State of the ee —— affixed by Congress to the appropriation for X11 CONTENTS. PAGE the Commission—Letter of the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, . the Interior—Money withheld—Compelled to disband the Commiss: and return home—Unfortunate situation of the party—Send he train and government property to San nio—Leave for the coast The grassy prairies of Texas—San Colorado_Wells at Santa Teresa —Ravages of the Comanches—Night alarm from mustangs—Abun- dance of deer and antelope—Los Olm aa ie drove of mustangs —Exciting race over the prairie—Horse lost—The prairie on fire—Rio San Francisco—Agua Dulee—Arrival at Corpus Christi . . . . . 518 CHAPTER XLV. CORPUS CHRISTI TO WASHINGTON, Corpus Christi—Its fine position—Geographical ee of the country— Nueces bay and river—A norther—Its effects on the fishin the lagu- tu Santo—Reach Decrow’s Point—Matagorda day and its commerce— Embark for New Orleans—Galveston—Arrival at New Orleans—Voy- age up the eres a “sr way - — diannaidt pesos Buffalo, an ny t Was ington oeea fal yvCeCceuU LY . . . . . . . . . ° a . . . . . 539 NATURAL HISTORY. The Natural history of the cei traversed—Animal life on the deserts —Quadrupeds—Reptiles, their great variety and number—Peculiar vegetation of the deserts—The “prairie dog” and its habits—The an- telope, ete. . . er ee ee ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY FOR A RAILWAY. Brief remarks on the geography of the countries traversed by the Boun- dary Commission, and upon its we for a railroad sagem the Atlantic with the Pacific. 5 af INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. Remarks on the introduction of Camels as a means of es and deserts of the interior. . . . 2 renege $ Pe AR iy Bie ° Toe p ep oe ai ae ILLUSTRATIONS TO SECOND VOLUME. WOOD-CUTS. Interior or Hur or Cairornia aia ‘ . . é Summer Huts or THE " ae . Figure out 1x Woop, . WBE ee comer ee CairorniA INDIANS OATOHING see. erage en! = Mey, 2 i . a eae . 4 . WOMER, ess Fee gol esos Grysers, Pruron River, CaLirornia, GotpEN Gate. Enrrance to San FrRAnoisoo, . QuIcKsILvER Furnaces, New ALMADEN, CALIFORNIA, . 5 Monterey, CArirorntA, ‘¢ et tem bee Mission or San Luis Rey, Gumndiets :. « » es Saw Dieco, Caurrornia,. 8 oor ee Mission or San Diego, pate é Monument. Initia Port on THE Padanis ae: coe . We.t at AtamMo Mucno, on roe Desert, . + + + JUNCTION OF THE Gita AND CoLorapo RIvers,. «+. + Pacopa Mountain, Norru or tue River Ga, - - -: Perapayva, or Gian, ORREUB 00: we 20S tame ee Py Ihmsorrerp Rooxs..-.River Gti, > «:0cae gyi eek Ke Pace PAGE Bastn oF THE River Gra, . : : : : ‘ ‘ 205 InsorrseD Rooks. River Gia, . , ; 5 ‘ . 206 a9 “c 66 : A 3 A x 906 * : : a, te) ‘Pro Fiure anp Bunon or Derrs’ Hoors, : é ‘ 223 Prwo Inpian WEAVING, . . 225 BasKETS AND POTTERY OF THE eben AND Gnas ar conus 227 Sxix Povou, , ‘ ; . . 228 Move or ConstRUCTING ‘aida, F ean ; . Se VILLAGE oF THE Coco-Maricopa INDIANS, . 285 Iyrer1or oF A Store-Hovuse. Pimo anp Cisne k 286 Inpran AMUSEMENTS, SHooTiING AT THE PETAHAYA, . 238° 8 Primo Man anp Woman, .. Seek ce : a Rurys oN THE Salinas, . ss . . 246 Cuitivatep Freps AND Viciiding | OF THE Pico ee . 2 Pro anp Coco-Maricora Women, SO GUS: GO ee ae ILLUSTRATIONS. Fraements or Anorent Pottery. Rivers Gita AND Sains, 255 Hirroetypnic oN Watt or Casas Granpes, . . . 248 ELevation oF THE Casas Granpzs, RIVER _ Fah “ oe Grounp Pian oF “ e 2a Proacno on tHe Tucson Desert, . . . . . «290 EORITE SEEN AT TUCSON, i ; : 298 . “vue Hacrenpa DE + Conciienbe: le Be . Presmpio or Janos, Cumuanva, oot ca ae Rurys at Casas GRranpss, Cnmcaney ; 348 Part or GrounD Pian oF Casas Granpes, Cnmmuanua, . 857 GrounD PLAN OF ONE OF THE Rurnep Buirprnes at Casas GRANDES, 859 FRAGMENTS OF Aeoue Gener FROM «Osa Crate, Our HUAHUA, . 3 . i 3 s ; 0 BEG a “ 6G ars cate Gt Retics FounD AT Casas Grannes, Ontavanva, . Desert Prat, View FROM THe Satapo, Onmmuanva, Muurary Post, Ex Paso, Texas, : Orean Mountains, SEEN FROM THE Rio oie: FS = ODMH OH _ —) ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii | ApacuE Inpians ATTACKING THE TRAIN AND Parry, Carryina Woon to Market, Curmuanva . ‘ oo ee cs pear bo Aqvuepuct anp Cuvron or Santa Rira, Carmvanva, . 441 Gieantio Yucoa Tree, Parras, .o ae Srampepe py Witp Horses on THe Pxarns oF hist, . 538 “LITHOGRAPHS. Roms at Casas GRANDES, CHIHUAHUA, (to face title-page.) Geysers, Piuton River, CaLirornia, ; 49 « oe Napa VaALLey From THE OxnsipiaAN Hinis, CALIFORNIA, . 50 ASoENT TO THE QuicKsItvER Mryz, New ALMADEN, . ee View on THE River Gita, Big Horn Mountar, . ‘ 198 Oasas GranpeEs, River Gina, . ‘ -) Oe Rourys at Casas GRANDES, essai: : : ee ea Orean Movuntarns, New Mexico, . i . 392 Forr Yuma, Junorion or THE Gita AND Ueiaabe crmee (to face title-page, vol. 1.) FOURTH DIVISION. JOURNEYS AND INCIDENTS IN CALIFORNIA. CHAPTER XXIL SAN DIEGO TO NAPA VALLEY. Arrival of Dr. Webb and his party—Dr. Webb’s report of his journey— State of the.survey—Reduction of the Commission—Advance of wages —Diegeno Indians—H’hana Indians—Leave for San Francisco—Its fine harbor—Extensive commerce—Great activity and enterprise of its peo- ple—Origin of its name—Contrast between the wants of the Californi- ans in 1770 and 1850—Trip to the Geysers—Benicia—Application to Gen. Hitchcock for an escort to the Commission on its journey back— Vallejo—Napa village—Napa valley—Its beauty and fertility—Mr Yaunt—His history—Red-wood trees—Their great height—Enormous yield of vegetables—Thermal springs. On the 11th February, Dr. Webb, with his party, reached San Diego, most of them on foot. They had experienced great privations, and had lost the larger portion of their animals by famine. The following letter from Dr. Webb shows the character of his journey. “San Dreco, Catirornta, February 14, 1852. ‘‘Sim: I have the honor to announce that I arrived here with the little party under my direction on the — VOL. 1.—1 ‘ 2 SAN DIEGO TO 11th instant, all in good health and spirits, notwith- standing we had to encounter numerous difficulties, undergo some hardships, endure some privations—io be exposed to the hostile attacks and depredations of Indians, and subjected to the loss of most of our ani- mals and much of our clothing, &c., and were necessa- rily placed on short allowance—compelled to walk a large portion of the distance, and be our own escort and night guard. ‘The mail closes so very soon, that it is impossible © for me to render, in detail, a report of the trip at this time. I can only state, in brief, that the party con- sisted of twelve individuals and twenty-seven riding and pack-mules. “The animals, which were mostly feeble at the outset, and consequently not suited for such a journey, soon gave convincing proofs that they could not hold out, and daily, after leaving the Pimo villages, be- came reduced in number—sinking under the combined influence of excessive heat, deficiency of grazing, and destitution of water. Of the twenty-seven, but three were in a suitable condition to be brought in; five more I left at Williams’s rancho, about fifty miles dis- tant, to recruit; and the remainder sank under their loads at various places on the desert, and were necessa- rily abandoned to their fate; which was either to fall into the hands of roving Indians, who, like so many hungry vultures, were continually hovering around, anxiously awaiting an opportunity to avail themselves of any accident or misfortune that might occur, whereby they could gain possession of any of our pro- perty ; or should they elude the Indians, their fate most NAPA VALLEY. 3 inevitably was, in their enfeebled state, to become an easy prey to the hungry wolves, which in great num- bers were constantly prowling about, making night hideous with their howlings; and not unfrequently so impatient were they to seize upon the poor animals, that they could be seen ee close to our camp in broad daylight. “The loss of pack-mules of course occasioned a sacrifice of much other property, as we had no relief mules with us. Most of our cooking utensils were dropped from time to time, at various places on the route. We had also to cache all of our camp stools and other furniture, some of our bedding, much cloth- ing, books, papers, etc. Eventually, we were compelled to abandon our tents: so that rain or shine, wet or dry, we had to stop at the end of our day’s journey in the open air, without any means of protection by day from the scorching heat of the sun; and at night we stretched out upon the ground, unsheltered from the inclemency of the weather, and the cold searching blasts and chilly atmosphere, though at mid-day the dry, brain-burning heat, was almost too much to bear. Soon after sunset, an icy feeling, nearly as intolerable, would pervade us; the variations between night and day often itiecntding! to sixty and seventy degrees - temperature. ‘Twelve days of the journey I walked, having relinquished my animal for pack-mule purposes before we reached the junction of the Gila and Colorado ivers. Subsequently, others followed the example; until at length but two retained possession of ani- mals. 4 SAN DIEGO TO ‘‘We had no escort; and therefore, after walking all day, we were obliged to take our turns at standing guard at night. Our provisions became so diminished in quantity as to compel me to put the whole party on short allowance. We lived principally on meat, mush, and mutton, without any vegetables. But one sheep (long, lank, raw-boned animals) was allowed to twelve men for four days, and even then our last meat was consumed a week before our arrival; and we were forced to deprive ourselves of a portion of our mush to furnish food to our animals, owing to the entire absence, for several days on our route; of all grass, shrubs, and trees. ‘‘Much is said by travellers respecting the desert of Sahara; but, in barrenness of verdure, destitution of water, tremendous storms of sand, etec., etc., it is doubtful if any tract of land can surpass the jornada which we crossed. Indeed much of this country, that by those residing at a distance is imagined to be a perfect paradise, is a sterile waste, utterly worthless for any purpose than to constitute a barrier or natural line of demarcation between two neighboring nations. ‘‘ Notwithstanding our many perils, privations, and suffering, mostly attributable, when traced to the true source, to our imperfect outfit at the Copper Mines, from the negligence, wilfulness, or some other unjusti- fiable cause on the part of those whose duty it was to attend to the business; notwithstanding the many additional obstacles thrown in the way; notwithstand- ing the continued succession of disappointments which we encountered in numerous shapes, and of varied hue, where the doing or neglecting to do, depended NAPA VALLEY. 5 upon the will of man; thanks to the protecting care of a divine and overruling Providence, we escaped un- harmed from the many dangers with which we were surrounded, and the difficulties in which we were involved, and have brought in our little party in the enjoyment, as already observed, of good health and spirits. ‘‘Tremain, sir, very respectfully, yours, (Signed) THOMAS H. WEBB, Secretary to Boundary Commission. ‘Hon. J. R. Bartiert, “* Commissioner, etc.” The animals brought in by the several parties were greatly reduced by their long and painful journey, owing chiefly to their poor and scanty food along the Gila, and from that river to the coast. They were now placed in a grassy valley near the mission, some five or six miles distant, where the feed was pretty good; but they were so completely broken down, that many weeks would be necessary to recruit them. The sur- veying parties during this time were engaged in re- ducing their observations and in plotting their maps. Although the entire boundary along the river Gila was not donipleted: it was a source of peculiar satisfac- tion to me that we had accomplished so much. It is more than the most sanguine in the Commission expected to perform in so short a space of time, sur- rounded, as the operating parties were, with so many serious impediments. To cross a wilderness, such as it may in truth be called, from the Rio Grande to the i 6 SAN DIEGO TO Pacific Ocean, a distance of more than eight hundred miles, would at any time be a labor of difficulty. But when this whole line is through a desolate region, with a scanty supply of grass for the animals; with large tracts destitute of water, and no means of procuring provisions; and furthermore, when nearly the entire distance is invested by hostile Indians, the work is one for the near completion of which we could not be too thankful. The whole came through in good health, and with the loss of but one man, Thomas Harper, an attendant on instruments in Lieutenant Whipple’s party, who was unfortunately drowned whilst bathing in the Colorado. The amount of public property lost or abandoned on the journey was not large, and could ~ easily be replaced in this country. | During my short stay at San Diego, I was busily occupied in paying off and reducing the Commission. Several of the assistants desired to leave here, and the larger portion of the mechanics and laborers. In fact, I found it difficult to keep such as were necessary to take care of the animals and other property, as well as the cooks and servants needed to attend the several messes. Wages were exceedingly high, and I was compelled to advance the pay of all that remained to the California rates, which were from fifty to eighty dollars a month for servants, cooks, teamsters, and herdsmen. After reducing the parties, and placing those who remained in comfortable quarters (for the weather was cold and wet), I made my arrangements to go to San Francisco, in order t6 procure a new out- fit of tents and camp equipage; to have the instruments repaired and put in order; to lay in provisions for our NAPA VALLEY. oe return; and to negotiate my drafts on the government to meet these several expenditures, as well as to pay the officers and men attached to the Commission. No event that is worthy of mention occurred here, except a visit from a band of Diegeno Indians. A chief and several of his tribe were sent to me at my request by a Californian gentleman. They were a mis- erable, ill-looking set, with dark brown complexions and emaciated bodies; and though the weather was cold, they were but slightly, clad. Articles of old and. cast-off clothing, such as a tattered shirt and panta- loons, were all that the best could boast of. One, I think the chief, had a piece of a horse blanket around his cadaverous-looking body. I managed to get from them a vocabulary of their language; though I must confess that, with the exception of the Apache, I never found one so difficult to express, in consequence of the gutturals and nasals with which it abounded. I finally got the words so correct, that the Indians could recog- nise them, and give me the Spanish equivalents. I tried to write down some short sentences, but was obliged to give up the attempt as unsuccessful. I could not combine the words so as to be understood, in @ single instance. These Indians occupy the coast for some fifty miles above, and about the same distance below, San Diego, and extend about a hundred miles into the interior. They are the same who were mane to the first settlers as the Comeya tribe. I also found an Indian here from the Upper Sse mento River. He had been taken prisoner by the American troops about three years before, and was now lying with some of the officers. He was quick and ; 8 SAN DIEGO TO intelligent, and answered promptly my questions rela- tive to his tribe and country. I could not, however, ascertain the precise locality of his people, which he called the Lhana tribe—the Ha deep guttural. I got from him a complete vocabulary of his language. On the 24th of February, I embarked with several officers of the Commission in the steamer Sea Bird, for San Francisco. The boat stopped on the way at the several ports of San Pedro, Santa Barbara, and Mon- terey ; but as the weather was boisterous and attended with rain, I did not land. On the evening of the 27th we reached San Francisco. cal To give an account of this wonderful city which has sprung into existence in the last four years, and whose rapid growth and extraordinary prosperity have astonished the world, is not my intention. No city on the face of the globe has ever attained the position that San Francisco has in the same period; and it is yet progressing. It is now almost the first in population on the western coast of the American continent; and but a few years will elapse before it will surpass all the rest. In point of commerce, the great ports of Europe and on the Atlantic coast of the United States alone, can vie with it. As the outlet of the principal and almost only rivers of California, it will continue to bear the same relation to the interior as New Orleans and New York do to the United States east of the Rocky Mountains. The harbor of San Francisco is one of the most spacious in the world, easy of access, of a conve- nient depth for anchorage, and protected from storms. The city itself now presents a strange medley of build- ings, from the rudest hovel and canvas tent to the ele- NAPA VALLEY. 9 gant mansion and the most substantial warehouses. The former, however, are rapidly giving way to the latter; and now that bricks of a superior quality are made here, and excellent building stone is found near at hand, no one will think of putting up wooden build- ings within the city. In the streets of San Francisco all is bustle and confusion. Crowdsare constantly passing and repassing. The wharves are thickly lined with magnifi- cent ships from every quarter of the globe, pouring in their thousands of immigrants, and discharging their valuable cargoes. The ocean steamers, each bearing from five hundred to one thousand passengers, are weekly arriving ; while the river boats, which take their daily departure for the interior every morning and evening, present the same moving crowds going and coming as the Hudson River boats at New York. All go full; and one is as much puzzled to find a spare seat or stool on which to rest his weary limbs, as on board the excur- sion boats from our Atlantic cities. The stages and other means of conveyance are equally crowded. The throng moves to and fro, from the city to the mines and the interior, and thence back again to the city. Go to the business streets, and the auctioneer’s hammer is heard at every turn, knocking off to the anxious bidder every article of commerce. Stocks, gold mines, ships, whole cargoes of merchandise, are bought and sold with the same freedom as in the Royal Exchange of London, the Bourse of Paris, or in Wall-street, New York. There are customers for every thing, and an. abundance of gold to meet any purchase however large. There is no project too great for the Californian of the present day. He is ready for any undertaking, whether 10 SAN DIEGO TO it be to make a railroad to the Atlantic, to swallow up Mexico, or invade the empire of Japan. New York is now the first city on the American continent, and San Francisco is destined ere long to be second. _ §San Francisco is said to have obtained its name in the following manner: ‘ When Father Juniper Serra received his orders from the Visitant-general respecting the names which he was to give to the new missions in California, he observed that the name of the founder of their order was not among them, and called the at- tention of his superior to the fact, exclaiming, ‘‘Is not our Father San Francisco to have a mission?” to which the Visitant-general replied, ‘If San Francisco desires a mission, let him show you a port, and he shall have it.” In the year 1769 an expedition was dis- patched from San Diego, for the purpose of settling Monterey. The expedition missed the port, but dis- covered a much larger and finer bay further to the north, which had been till then unknown. The com- mander of the expedition and his religious associates decided that this discovery must be the work of St. Francis, and accordingly they gave his name to the place, setting up across, and taking possession after the usual manner.* To show the striking contrast between the wants of the zealous’ priests who colonized California in the year 1770 and the Americans of 1850, I giye another quotation from a letter written by the same excellent man to Father Palou. ‘As May made a year since I received a letter from any Christian country, your Re- * Palou. Vida del Padre Fray Junipero Serra, Mexico, 1787, p. 88. ee Sone NAPA VALLEY. It verence will imagine how deficient we are in news: but for all that, I only ask you and your companions, when you can get an opportunity, to inform me what our most holy Father the reigning Pope is called, that I may put his name in the canon of the mass; also to say if the canonization of the beatified Joseph Cuper- tino, and Serafino de Asculi has taken place ; and if ete is any other beatified one, or saint, in order that I may put them in the calendar, and pray to them ; we having, it would appear, taken our leave of all printed calendars. Tell me also, if it is true, that the Indians have killed Father Joseph Soler in Sonora, and how it happened; and if there are any other friends defunct, in order that I may commend them to God; with any thing else your Reverence may think fit to communicate to a few poor hermits separated from human society. We proceed to-morrow to celebrate the feast of Corpus Christi (although in avery poor | manner), in order to scare away whatever imps there possibly may be in this land.” * The Californians of our day, instead of asking for information about beatified men or saints, in order to put them on the calendar and pray to them, would feel a much deeper interest in knowing the state of political parties in the Atlantic States, or the prices of stocks, of sugar, and whiskey; and where one would care to hear about the Pope of Rome, a hundred would prefer news respecting the Emperor of China.t * Palou. Vida de Fray Junipero Serra, p. 102. + L have reference now to the interest felt in the present contest in China between the rebel Tien-teh and the Tartar sovereign. — 12 SAN DIEGO TO For three weeks after I arrived in San Francisco it rained incessantly, confining me most of the time to the house. The result was a great rise in the rivers, so that the mining regions were laid under water, and became impassable. The Sacramento was so swollen as to inundate the city of the same name. This state of things prevented me from visiting the interior, and particularly the gold region. Having a couple of weeks still to spare before our camp equipage would be ready, I determined to avail myself of this brief space in visiting some of the many interesting objects in which California abounds. To examine the gold mines in so short a time with any satisfaction, seemed impracticable. I therefore concluded to visit some - localities which were less known, and which would be a greater novelty than the gold region, with which I already felt pretty well acquainted through the daily accounts of them in the newspapers. I had heard an interesting description of some geysers and a volcanic region at the head of Napa Valley, which I determined to visit as soon as the travelling would permit. Accordingly I left San Francisco on the 17th of March, accompanied by Dr. Webb and Mr. Thurber, for Benicia, where we arrived in two hours. Our steamer was crowded with passengers, chiefly bound for the mines, among whom were a number of Chinese. These men were dressed in their native costume, and each carried with him a huge pair of boots, showing plainly to what region he was destined. Benicia was for a while the rival of San Francisco ; though I cannot see why such aspirations should have been indulged in for a moment. It is situated on the NAPA VALLEY. 13 Straits of Carquinez, about thirty miles from San Fran- cisco, on a gentle slope, which becomes almost a plain as it approaches the water’s edge. It contained at the time of my visit about 1500 inhabitants, including the soldiers now stationed here. Its buildings are mostly of wood, and among these are several hotels. The best of them is the ‘‘ American,” a neat and well-kept house, where we stopped. It was then the Head-quarters of the Pacific division of the U. 8. Army. The large deposit of Quarter-master’s and Commissary’s stones had been recently removed hither, and efforts were making to have the Navy yard here also. The Pacific Mail Steam Ship Company had its depot here, and next to the Navy yard was the most valuable accession it could possibly enjoy. The steamers all lie here untilafew . days before sailing, when they move down to San _ Francisco. This company furnished much business to the place with its large coal depot, ship yard, and various workshops, where several hundred men were constantly employed. The military post is about a mile from the town, and consists of a few wooden build- ings. I called on General Hitchcock, commanding the Pacific division of the U. S. Army, for the purpose of obtaining an escort for the Commission from San Diego to the Pimo villages on the Gila. This seemed neces- sary, as the command of Colonel Craig amounting to twenty-five men, which accompanied the surveying parties down the Gila, had all deserted but five, on their arrival at San Diego; and of these, three were non-commissioned officers. General Hitchcock, with the promptness and liberality which have ever distin- 14 SAN DIEGO TO guished him, at once acceded to my request, and gave me an order on the commanding officers at San Diego and Fort Yuma to furnish me with such a force as they deemed necessary. It was from Benicia that we were to take the road to Napa Valley. On making known to General Hitch- cock my desire to visit the Geysers, he kindly furnished me with horses and a pack-mule for the purpose. To Major Allen, the Quarter-master, I am also indebted for his promptness in facilitating the wishes of myself — and party in our proposed trip, and for sending me a trusty man. March 19th. Our horses, mule, and attendant were promptly at the door by 7 o'clock; and after break- fast we took our departure. Proceeding along the shores of the bay, we passed the great projected city of Vallejo, the once intended capital of the State. It now stands naked and alone, its large houses tenant- less. As the capital of California it might have become a place of importance ; but without such factitious aid there is nothing to build it. Here we entered Napa Valley. The hills on both sides as well as the valley were covered with a luxu- riant growth of wild oats, and immense herds of cattle were roaming about feasting on them. Wild flowers of varied hues were thickly scattered around, and every thing showed that the heavy and continued rains had given new life to vegetation. Our course was now a northerly one, directly up the valley. Napa Creek, which we saw at a distance, makes up it, and affords sufficient water for small vessels, several of which we saw gliding up. The valley soon became perfectly — NAPA VALLEY. 15 level, without a hill or depression. In many places ploughmen were at work turning up the soil, which was of the richest description. Barley appeared to be the principal grain sowed, this being in more general use for horses than oats, and found to give a better yield. Ini one place I noticed a hill, the whole of which had been sowed with barley, presenting a field of more than a hundred acres. The soil here was loose; and as the water had run off, the ground was in a fit state for cultivation. The valley below was still very wet, and would not be ina fit state to plough for weeks yet. On this account, the declivities possess an advan- tage for early planting, over the level plains. At 2 o'clock reached the village of Napa, where we dined. Distance travelled, twenty miles. The road was excellent, except in two places, where the valley was still wet, and where our horses sank deep in the mud. Napa Creek is navigable to this point, even for vessels of a large burden, should it be neces-— sary to bring them here, which will hardly be the case. Near the town is the hulk of a ship. It was bought by a gentleman in San Francisco for a trifle and brought here, where it is used asa storeship, as well as for the residence of the owner and his family. She cost much less than it would have done to erect a small dwelling, and the owner has besides the advantage of a large warehouse. She lay close by the river’s bank ; and with a doorway cut in her side, the entrance was made quite easy. A steamboat now runs to San Fran- cisco, which will tend to populate rapidly this beautiful valley, and render the town of Napa the centre of one of the richest agricultural districts in the State. After 16 SAN DIEGO TO dinner we rode five miles, to the house of Joseph W. Osborne, Esq., a merchant of San Francisco, who had invited me to make him a visit. Mr. O. had pre- ceded usa couple of days, and met us at his gate, giving us a warm reception. Mr. Osborne’s place was the most beautiful and picturesque I had seen in the valley. In fact, it was the only house wherein there was any attempt at taste and comfort; for the country was too new to expect much in this way yet. But even his was a small and unpretending cottage after the New England fashion. The valley here is about four miles in width. Where it opens on St. Pablo Bay it is about six miles, but it gradually contracts towards the north. At the entrance it is.an open plain, destitute of trees, and covered with luxuriant grass; but here it assumes a new aspect, such a one, too, as I had not before seen in the coun- try. It is now studded with gigantic oaks, some of them evergreen, though not so close together as to render it necessary to cut any away to prepare the land for cultivation. These magnificent oaks are found sometimes in long lines, and again in clusters of twenty or thirty, forming beautiful groves; then again a space of ten or twenty acres will occur without a single tree. If this romantic valley were transferred to the older countries of Europe, it would be taken for the domain of a prince or a nobleman. It answers to the idea one has of the old and highly cultivated parks of England, where taste and money have been lavished with an unsparing hand, through many generations. As one emerges from or enters each grove, he involuntarily expects some venerable castle or mansion to appear; NAPA VALLEY. 17 or to find himself among some secluded villages. But in the entire length of’ the valley there are no houses to be found within a less distance than five miles of each other, and these too of the most humble and unpretending character. What is singular, and to me unaccountable in these groves of large trees is, that there are no young ones, none but the venerable and full-grown oaks, which, doubtless, for centuries have held exclusive sway over this wide-spread and beauti- ful domain. Nor is there any undergrowth of other trees and shrubs. I can only account for this defi- ciency by attributing it to fires since the occupation of the country by the Spaniards; or, by supposing that the immense herds of cattle, which for a century past have occupied the valley, have browsed upon the shrubs and young trees, until they destroyed them, and afterwards kept down the shoots as they sprang up. The valley is hemmed in on both sides by ranges of low mountains, running north and south, which are generally covered to their very summits with forest trees. Here and there bold rocks jut out, presenting the most fantastic outlines; while between the valley and the mountains runs a lower range of rounded hills, dotted with small bushy oaks and pines, which present a fine contrast with the more sombre hues of the mountain foliage. Occasionally the gigantic palo colorado (red wood) raises its tall head far above every other object, making even the huge oaks — diminutive. ~ In the midst of the valley iti a sibel stream, called Napa Creek, its course marked by the graceful VOL. 11.—2 18 SAN DIEGO TO willows that grow along its margin. This creek is chiefly supplied by springs near the head of the valley ; but during the rainy season several mountain torrents empty their waters into it—indeed, some of them I was told contribute a portion during the whole year. The larger portion of Napa Valley was still in the state in which nature had left it, but had all been taken up by recent settlers, and was fast being brought into cultivation. A road had just been laid. out through its centre, and every farmer was occupied in marking out his land and dividing it into lots inclosed by substantial rail fences. Ploughs were cutting up the virgin sward in all directions; and in one place | saw a ditching machine in operation. It answered the double purpose of making a ditch four or five feet wide, with an embankment of sufficient height to answer for a fence or wall. This machine was worked ‘by two or three oxen and a windlass. It isa rapid method of accomplishing two most important objects; cand the mound is said to keep the cattle out as well as @ high fence. Mr. Osborne’s men were all New England farmers, — several of them from Rhode Island ; and it is astonish- ing to see how much more work one of these men will perform than a Mexican or Californian. He pays them seventy-five dollars a month, and finds them, which pays him better than employing ordinary hands — at half the price. Mr. O. has owned this property but — one year; and a furrow was never turned on it or a seed sown, until he came into possession. He has now more than a hundred acres under cultivation, a com siderable portion of which is protected by a post and NAPA VALLEY. 19 rail fence of red wood. Many fruit trees, grape vines, flowering shrubs, etc., are in a flourishing condition around his house. In no part of the Atlantic States or Mississippi Valley could such improvements be shown in the same time, except on prairie land. March 20th. This morning we called on Mr. Yaunt, a Missourian, and one of the oldest settlers in the valley. Mr. Y. came here some twelve or fifteen years ago, and obtained a large grant of land from the Government; he, however, has cultivated very little of it, but has used it, like the other great land- holders of the country, for a cattle range. The other original grantees of land in Napa Valley were Mr. Fowler, Dr. Bale, an Englishman, and Don Salvador Vallejo. The usual measure of land in this country, as well as in Mexico, is the square league, containing about five thousand acres. Seftor Vallejo, who was the largest proprietor here, owned six square leagues, or thirty thousand acres. It is well for the country that these large estates are now being divided and brought into market. They will, doubtless, ere long be eagerly sought after, on account of their extraordi- nary fertility and beautiful situation, by gentlemen who wish to get away from the bustle of a great city, and enjoy the retirement of a country life.* I was desirous to have Mr. Yaunt accompany us * In an agreeable work by Lieutenant Revere, I find the following history of Mr. Yaunt: “This old man had led an adventurous and checkered life; in the course of which he had fought under Jackson at New Orleans, ands in the Seminole war had been taken prisoner by the Indians, and actually bound to the stake. He had been a hunter and a trapper, and Indian fighter at large, in the heart of the continent, until 20 SAN DIEGO TO to the Geysers, and he readily promised to go; but as he did not appear at the time appointed, we waited for him till twelve o'clock, and then determined to proceed without him. Mr. Osborne now joined our party, and we resumed our journey. The valley continued as before, level, and without his combative propensities were gratified—and he finally found himself one day at the “ jumping-off place,” and made his first attempt at ocean navigation on the bosom of the broad Pacific. In the unpretending skiff of an otter hunter, often unaccompanied save by his trusty rifle, he coasted the shores and islands of California in search of the pelt of his valuable prey. While employed one day (in the year 1836) in his regular pursuit, he chanced to steer his skiff into the navigable creek or estuary of Napa, rightly judging it a place of resort for his furry friends. The valley was then inhabited by none but Indians; and he made his way up to a beautiful spot, a few miles from his boat, which had been. selected for a rancheria by a tribe called the “Caymas.” Here he sat down to rest; when suddenly there flashed upon his mind, like a gleam of light, a long-forgotten prophecy of an old fortune-teller in his native State. He declares that the sibyl had predicted the spot of his future residence in terms exactly answering to the description of this valley, in- cluding all the accessories of grove, plain, mountain, river, and even “ me- dicine water,” as the Indians call the springs. The old man pondered over this prophecy, counted his gains, which had been considerable, and philosophized over the vicissitudes of human life, not forgetting, how- ever, to examine the valley more carefully. On his next visit to Monterey, he became a citizen of California, and obtained a grant of land, embracing the charmed spot indicated by the Western witch. He then came and settled it, purchasing cattle with his gains in the | “lower country.” But the happy valley then swarmed with Indians, jealous of white men, and constantly fighting among themselves; so that this elysium was turned into a pandemonium by their screams and wat whoops. He quitted his skiff, formed an alliance offensive and defen- sive, with the rancheria of Caymas, erected a log house, after the man- ner of his ancestors in the days of Daniel Boone, and with his faithful rifle—the only fire-arm in the valley—not only stood and repelléd the NAPA VALLEY. 21 a hill or an undulation.” A luxuriant growth of grass, studded with brilliant wild flowers, lined our path. As we continued north, the adjacent hills became more thickly wooded, particularly with pines and firs; the red-wood, a species of cypress, still more conspicuous, raising its tall stem far above the others.* attacks of the rival rancherias, but attacking in turn, exterminated the unruly, sustained the wavering, and, single-handed, bullied the whole valley into submission. Many a weary, and anxious, and watchful night did he spend ere this result was achieved; but once accomplished, his sovereignty remained undisputed ; the conquered became his servants; and the allies of Caymus remain to this day his laborers and his fart hands.”—Tour in California, p. 95. * This tree is remarkable for the great height which it attains. Ihave been told by credible persons that specimens are now growing which are three hundred feet in height; and I have seen persons who have mea- sured fallen trunks two hundred and sixty-six feet in length. It is one of the most important vegetable productions of California; and besides the various uses to which it is applied when sawed into boards, it is exten- sively employed for fencing purposes, the grain being so straight that it splits with the greatest ease; indeed, before the introduction of saw- mills, it was usual to split logs of the red wood into plan It is also said to be very durable. Colonel Fremont saw posts which had been in the ground three fourths of a century, without traces of decay. The houses built by the Russians at Bodega many years since, are of this timber, with posts sunk in the ground, into which the horizontal pieces are mortised. The planks upon the sides are about three inches thick, and had been but little smoothed off after being split. No signs of decay could be detected even in the posts. At this place, Captain Smith erected a steam, grist, and saw-mill, in 1845, being the first, structure of the kind in the country. He states that they could not saw logs much over four feet in diameter, and never cut any less than eighteen inches; and yet the average number of cuts or logs, each of sixteen feet in length from a single tree, was between eight and ten.* goret T. Tyson to the Secretary of War, on the Geology and Topography of Califor- 22 oe SAN DIEGO TO Passed the farm of Mr..Yaunt, and soon after that of Sefiora Bale, the widow of an English physician, Fremont describes the largest red-wood measured by him to be fif- teen feet in diameter, and 275 feet in height. Lieut. Stoneman, U.S. Army, speaks of another of about the same height, and twenty-one feet in diameter. The largest tree seen by Mr. Tyson (quoted above) was in the forests near Bodega: it had been cut down and a portion removed ; the stump was twelve and a quarter feet in diameter, clear of the very thick bark. He saw many trees of nine or ten feet, and those of six and eight feet, were very common. After examining these forests to some extent, Mr. Tyson says he “measured off a space equal to one seventh of an acre, which was esti- mated to contain about an average of the forests of that region, and found within it three trees about one hundred feet high and eighteen inches thick, and twelve others varying between four and eight feet in diameter, and from 180 to 230 feet high.” It is difficult to form an idea of the product of timber upon an acre containing the proportion within the fractional part above noted, without an arithmetical calcula- tion, when it will be found to produce about one million feet of boards, one inch thick, besides five hundred cords of wood from the tops and limbs. Captain Smith thinks he alone has seen ten thousand acres of such forest, and Mr. Tyson saw many acres which would yield considerably more in proportion than the measured space. Judge Thornton speaks of pines which “ measured, at a height of be- tween sixand a dozen feet above the ground, forty feet in circumference, their bark nearly a foot thick, and between two and three hundred feet high.” Between Paget Sound and Fort Harrison, some of the fallen trees have been found to be 265 feet in length. “These trees are per- fectly straight and without branches for a distance of 150 feet. In many places where these trees have fallen, they present barriers to the vision even when the traveller is on horseback.”— Oregon and California, Vol. IL. p. 350. Mr. Walter Hitchcock gives - following account of forest monsters which fell under his observation “The big trees (for there are 131 of them over ten feet in diameter standing on the limits of a few acres) stand in Mammoth Tree Valley, NAPA VALLEY. 24 who settled and died here. This lady has a large estate, which contains more improvements than any about thirty miles north of Sonora, in Calaveras county. The rham- moth tree which has been felled, was bored down with long augers, and took four men twenty-two days to get it down. The stumpstands about six feet above the level of the ground, and its top has been made level and smooth, which required sixteen days work. I measured it from the inside of the bark across to the inside of the bark, and it measured twen- ty-five feet, and is perfectly sound clear to the heart. The bark, to the height of 52 feet, has been taken from the trunk in sections, and sent to the fair at New-York. If the top half of the tree were taken off, so as to make a level surface, a stage coach with four horses might be driven on — it, from the butt towards the tip, a distance of 166 feet, it being at this length ten feet in diameter. At the length of 280 feet, it is four feet in diameter. At this point it was broken off in falling, and the tip was broken into fragments so fine I could not measure them; but its height had been taken before it was felled, and set down at 300 feet. It is called arbor vite; but it is not fully decided to what variety it belongs. It is a little curious that no other trees of the same kind can be found less than seven feet in diameter, and this tree is estimated by a scientific gentleman from San Francisco to be 3,100 years old. “There are many others still standing, of the same kind, which are monsters ; some even larger than this, but not sound. One, called Un- cle Tom’s Cabin, has a more commodious room in it than many miners’ cabins, There are some large ones blown down, and one I must not fail to describe. It was evidently decayed before it fell, and in its fall broke off sixty feet from the roots. This part is hollow; and I cannot give youa better idea of its size, than by telling you that I rode my horse through it from end to end. At the end where it is broken off, the shell is very thin, and as I sat on the horse, I could not reach my hand to the inner surface, over my head; but half-way through, the shell was as much as three feet thick over my head, and more than that under the horse’s feet, and here it was necessary to lean forward. But this is not the SS. There j is anon | one bes hele down, which meas- ures 110 feet in ci nd 4 h: This, too, is hollow ; and if the hollow were enlarge a little, it would ‘make a very good rope walk.” 24 SAN DIEGO TO other farm in the valley. In her orchard I noticed pear and peach trees, and grape vines in abundance; while around the house were rose bushes and other flowering: shrubs. The lady was at work in her gar- den, in which she seemed to take a deep interest; while frolicking around her were six beautiful chil- dren, whose light hair and fair complexion indicated their Anglo-Saxon parentage. Passed other farms, some of which, particularly Mr. Keller’s, bore the marks of an old settlement, from the extent of its fences, its barns, saw-mill, and other improvements. Here was a large orchard of peach trees in full bloom ; which trees, I was told, were brought round Cape Horn from the Atlantic States. Every thing here was in a flourishing condition; although in the form and arrangement of the buildings a sad deficiency of taste was visible. | A ride of three miles further brought us to Mr. Kilburn’s, a Missourian, with a Californian wife. We stopped here for the night, and were disappointed in not finding Mr. K. at home. He is another old resi- dent, having been some seven years in the valley. As this gentleman was familiar with the district we were about to visit, we had relied on his accompanying US; or, failing to do so, we had hoped to obtain such infor- mation from him as would enable us to find the objects of which we were in search. Mrs. Kilburn received us kindly, although we were all strangers to her; nevertheless she seemed a little flustered when we told her we had come to pass thenight there. She is quite young, good-looking, and has an interesting family of little ones around her, who, like the children before NAPA VALLEY. 25 “mentioned, exhibit their Anglo-Saxon descent. A fine supper was soon prepared for us; after partaking of which, we were directed to our beds in. the chamber above, all clean and comfortable. - The valley for the last few miles had diminished much in width, being not more than a mile at Mr. Kil- burn’s farm. The soil, too, had changed from a black loam to clay and gravel. Nevertheless, vegetation seemed quite as luxuriant, and the valley presented a greater variety of trees. The oak, which, as I have stated, monopolizes the valley below, here gives way to the lofty pine, spruce, red-wood, cedar, &c. I had heard at San Francisco of the large yield of vegetables on this farm, and made inquiry as to its truth. I found the statement to be correct; and that from two acres of onions planted near the house, Mr. Kilburn had realized last year, in the market of San Francisco, eight thousand dollars in cash. He also raised an immense number of cabbages and other vege- tables. In explanation of this, I ought to mention that onions are considered the most valuable of all vege- tables among the gold miners, on account of their anti- Scorbutic properties. They grow here to an enormous size, and give an immense yield. My own experience convinces me of the great value of onions where there is a predisposition to scurvy, and there is no vegetable which one craves more than this. Many have I bought at twelve and a half cents a piece, and eaten with more relish than I ever did an orange. In our ride to-day, we crossed the valley to examine some thermal springs, which are somewhat celebrated here. They are in a plain near the base of a small hill 26 SAN DIEGO TO NAPA VALLEY. of conglomerate rock ; but owing to the wet and boggy condition of the valley, we were unable to approach within thirty feet of them. Columns of steam. were rising from them on:all sides. These springs had been visited by Professor Shepard the year before, and some account of them given ‘by him to the public.* The temperature is said to be constantly changing. Pro- fessor 8. heard that there was a place near the foot of Mount Helena, where the hot waters formerly flowed, but which had now ceased. This report induced: him to visit the spot. ‘‘ Externally,” he says, ‘‘ there was no uncommon appearance to indicate the locality. Neither a surplus or a scarcity of vegetation, and no appearance of scoria, tufa or travertine, as might have been expected.” In one place, however, he found it slightly warm on the surface; and on excavating to the depth of two feet, it became so hot that he could not bear his hand in the mud and clay. He inserted’ the bulb of his thermometer, and the mercury at once rose to one hundred and twenty degrees. The tem- perature of the springs we visited, varied from 105 to | 169 degrees. * See Silliman’s Journal, Nov. 1851, p. 154. THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, ETC. 27 CHAPTER XXIII. THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. Mount Helena—Russian inscription—Digger Indians—Dwellings—Mode of fishing—Dress—Pass the mountains—Meet bear hunters—Mode of cooking without utensils—-Pluton River—The Geysers—Description of these phenomena—Effect of the water on wood—Extent of volcanic action—Return to Camp—Abundance of grizzly bears—Recross the mountains—Return. through Napa Valley—Visit to the Obsidian hills —Extensive use of this material by the Indians—Return to San Fran- cisco, March 21st. Resumed our journey after breakfast ; and at Mr. Fowler’s, three or four miles distant, met a man who manifested much curiosity in our researches, when he found us inquiring about mines and the vol- canic region. He showed Dr. Webb a specimen of ore, which, he said, was from that vicinity. The doc- tor at once pronounced it zine, and expressed a doubt about its being found in the state in which it was exhibited to him. But the man insisted that, his account of its origin was correct, and furthermore offered to conduct us to the spot; whereupon we set off together under his guidance. Crossing the valley to the opposite side, he led us up a deep ravine, where he ae tate from his horse and pointed out the rock from 28 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, which he said the specimen was taken. An examina- tion showed it to be nothing but serpentine. He led the doctor to several ledges at some distance, but their character was the same. He had evidently been im- posed upon, for he acknowledged afterwards that he did not find the specimen himself. Many tricks of this kind are practised on the ignorant, and they even sometimes lead scientific men astray. While this man was hunting up his imaginary trea- _ sures, I ascended a small hill and took a sketch of the beautiful scenery around. Directly before me on the eastern side of the valley loomed up Mount Helena or Moyacino of the Russians. This is the highest moun- tain for a great distance around, none within seventy or eighty miles having as great an altitude. On its summit is an inscription in Russian: characters on a plate of copper, giving the latitude and longitude of the place. We met several persons who had seen the tablet. The Russians had a settlement called Fort Rosse on Bodega Bay, opposite this mountain; and the tablet was doubtless placed there to show the line of boundary which Russia claimed. The view here exhibited the finest alpine scenery I had yet seen in California, and showed that we were advancing northward as well as reaching a higher elevation. Reached Mr. Knight’s, twelve miles from Kilburn’s, at noon. Here the valley grew quite narrow, or rather — terminated, it being intersected by a range of hills. At this place, another valley opened some two or three miles in width, and extended about ten miles farther to the north. AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 29 Mr. Knight isa young man from Vermont, who came across the continent about seven years before our visit, with the first emigrants to Oregon. As the country did not suit him, he pushed his, way south- ward, until he struck this valley. He owns a large tract of land here; but in consequence of his distance from market, he has, very wisely, turned his attention from cultivating the soil, to that of raising stock. His _ isolated position, and the hills of grass and wild oats which surround him on every side, render it a most advantageous one for this purpose. Although sur- rounded by wild beasts and warlike Indians, and with no neighbor within twelve miles of him, he had not forgotten all the enjoyments that belong to civilized communities, as was evinced by a piano-forte and a case well filled with books. An Indian village stood a few hundred yards from the house; and at my request Mr. Knight went out and brought me ‘three of the most intelligent among them, from whom I obtained a full vocabulary of their language. Like many other tribes of the country, and of this region in particular, they appeared to have no name for themselves as a people. By the white peo- ple, these and all other Indians between the Sacra- — mento and the coast, and thence through the central parts of the State, are called ‘‘ Diggers,” or “ Digger Indians,” from the fact that they live chiefly on roots, which they collect by digging. I therefore set them down as Indians of Napa Valley. We had met with several small bands, and passed a few villages on our — way up; but from none could I learn that they had any name for their tribe. This fact will account for 30° THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, the great diversity in the names of the California Indians as given by travellers. In examining the various books on this country and articles in scientific journals, I find tribes mentioned by names which are not elsewhere to be found; and in my own inquiries I have found tribes who called themselves by names which I never heard of before. This has induced me ‘to believe that the small tribes or bands, which abound here more than in any other part of North America, when asked to what tribe they belong, give the name of their chief, which is misunderstood by the inquirer to be that of the tribe itself. Their houses are circular, and from twelve to thirty feet in diameter, the interior usually excavated about three feet below the surface of the ground. Within this circle posts are planted, forked at the top, upon which rest poles reaching from one to the other. The spaces between the posts are filled in with sticks or tules, against which the earth is firmly banked up outside. The roofs are dome-shaped, and, in the smaller houses, supported by a single post in the cen- tre, on the forked top of which rest two main rafters, with their outer ends planted in the ground. From these are stretched stout poles, about a foot apart and thatched with sticks and tules, or rushes closely inter- woven, and covered with a solidly pressed layer of earth about a foot thick, making a roof completely water proof in the heaviest rains. In some villages the houses have but one aperture, which is on the top of the roof, and serves for both door and chimney. This is entered by a sort of rude ladder, or by notches cut in the centre-post. Others have an opening at the - de) i vol. ii. INTERIOR OF INDIAN HUTS, CALIFORNIA.—p. 30. AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 31 side, so small as not to be entered except by crawling on the hands and knees. Around the sides of the interior are wide shelves, formed of poles and rushes resting on forked posts, which serve for beds. Summer huts of California Indians, In the view of the interior of one of their dwell- ings is seen a number of decoy ducks which they use to good advantage. Although the California tribes exhibit much skill in fishing and in trapping game, and the erection of their dwellings, they show little in- genuity in the arts of design. The accompanying rude figure in wood, of a woman and child, which was 32 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, found on the coast, is all that I have seen of their carv- ing. , The Indians dwelling near the great rivers of Cali- fornia make much dependence upon the salmon and — sturgeon which they can take. For this purpose they use both nets and spears. When the river is wide, the nets are stretched by means of booms projecting from the banks, sometimes a hundred feet into the stream. These booms are made of the trunks of trees, fastened together at the ends, and kept at aright angle with the shore by stays of grape, vine stretching from the boom to trees or stakes. Beneath the outer end of the boom is a float or raft of tulé, upon which 18 stuck a branch gaily trimmed with feathers and other ornaments, as a charm to secure success. Other charms, usually made of bunches of feathers raised upon poles, are displayed along the bank, where are also one oF two huts for the party in attendance. One of the | party holds constantly in his hand a line attached tO | the net, by means of which he can feel when a large © ee AND RETURN: TO SAN FRANCISCO. 33 fish is entangled, whereupon the net is hauled i in and the prize secured. California Indians catching salmon. When a sturgeon is caught, the spinal marrow, which is considered a delicacy, is drawn out whole, through a cut made in the back, and devoured raw, with a rapidity quite startling to one not aware of the strength of an Indian’s stomach. The spear is a very ingenious and athoteiv con- trivance. When thrown into a fish, the head, which is of bone with a line attached towards the point, detaches itself from the pole, which serves as a drag to weary out the fish. As soon as the pole can be seized, nothing remains but to haul the prey in. The men either go naked or wear a simple breech- cloth. The women wear a cloth or strips of leather around their loins. A basket pointed at the lower VOL. 11,—3 34 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, end, is in universal use among them, for gathering the roots and seeds which form their chief subsistence. - This is carried on their backs, supported by a band across the forehead. Their arms of defence are bows and arrows. Some tribes, however, make use of the spear or lance. In one respect the California Indians differ from all others. I allude to their beards, which are generally permitted to grow. It is true they are not as thick and bushy as in the white race, but ‘short, thin, and stiff Ihave never seen them extend beyond the upper lip and the chin. The hair of all the Cali- fornia Indians I have seen is cut short. After partaking of an excellent dinner, we took leave of our host. For several miles our journey ex- tended over a plain hemmed in on all sides, on which large herds of cattle were grazing; then came ranges of low hills, all covered with wild oats or clover. The cattle truly luxuriated here. A ride of twelve miles, alternately over low hills and valleys, and winding through clusters of trees and shrubbery, brought us to” the establishment of MacDonald, the last settler in this part of the country, towards Oregon. We received a cordial welcome from Mr. MacDonald and his wife,— a young woman of twenty, who must have some cou- rage to settle down in this lonely spot. On making known my intention to visit the volcanic region, Mr. MacDonald consented to be our guide, although busily engaged in putting in his crops. Having an hour or two to spare before dark, I took a sketch of the valley and adjoining mountains, all of which presented a most picturesque appearance. The valley is here very limited, being confined to AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. . 35 patches of from twenty to fifty acres, but all connected by a small and never-failing stream of excellent water. The object of our friend in settling here was to secure . to himself a large tract of land without encroachment. Thus he has a section of good tillable land of one hun- dred and sixty to two hundred acres, and on the low hills around it about four thousand acres excellent for grazing purposes. Having secured all the valley, no one would take up land on the hills. His section would, therefore, give him: the use of the large tract adjacent, which was all he required. March 22d. Took an early breakfast, and started at seven o'clock. MacDonald led the way, and we followed him in Indian file. We had now no more beautiful valleys or grassy plains to traverse. Nothing but. a succession of lofty and rugged mountains lay before us, through the intricacies of which we had to wind our way. There was no road, nor even a trail, save those made by wild animals, of which there was an abundance in these parts. Our guide often directed our attention to the huge tracks of the grizzly and brown bear, and again to those of the elk, which con- stantly crossed and recrossed our path. He had been several times to the place we were going, and knew the country well; yet so wild and rugged was it, so dense the forest, and with such a succession of ascents and descents, that he sometimes seemed at a loss which way to go. The general direction was well known; but among such a number of deep gorges and ravines, mountains, hills, and valleys, it was no easy task to select the right one; anda mistake in the mazes of such a place would leads us into inextricable difficulties. | ome 36 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, _ At noon, having been five hours in the saddle, we stopped to rest ourselves, as well as our animals, on one of the elevated spurs, from which we had a grand view of a vast stretch of country towards the coast. Some ten or fifteen miles distant lay Russian River, winding its way along a beautiful valley, bounded by a succession of hills; and beyond this rose the coast range of mountains. While the animals were grazing, I took a sketch of this enchanting spot. - Pursuing our journey still over hills and through ravines ; forcing our way among the thorny chapporal © and Tickots: ;—now winding along the side of a steep ill, where a single misstep would. throw horse and = fy some hundred feet below, and now leading our frightened animals up some precipitous ascent where it was unsafe to ride them, we at length reached the summit of the mountain beyond. From this elevated point the view was grand beyond description. On the east, far in the distance, the horizon was bounded by the snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevada, form- ing a well marked line with the deep blue of the ho- rizon. Nearer, and on every side, lay mountains of every variety of form; some rugged and _ bare, others covered with a deep Alpine foliage, while others again of less height, from their yellow hue, seemed clothed with the rich verdure of wild oats. Four or five miles distant, in an opening surrounded by rugged mountains, lay Clear Lake. After following the summit we were now on, for a couple of miles, we began ‘to descend again into the deep gorge, through which runs Pluton River, on whose banks are the volcanic phenomena and geysers of AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 37 which we were in search. The descent was here so steep that we were obliged to dismount from. our ani- mals and lead them down. Our progress was now necessarily rapid, and we soon reached the base of the mountain. Here we suddenly came upon four men, who had come out a few days before us from MacDo- nald’s to amuse themselves in hunting the grizzly bear. We reached this place at four o’clock, a distance of but sixteen miles, after a most fatiguing journey ; although the beauty and variety of the scenery well repaid us for the effort. As there was still a descent of five hundred feet to the stream, and a mile to the geysers, we determined to leave their examination till morning, and devote the remainder of the day to rest and the preparation of our dinner. As the hunters had nothing but bear’s meat in store, three of them took their rifles and went out to procure a deer for dinner. In less than an hour all returned, each bringing with him the hind quarters of . a fine deer, having been equally successful in their short hunt. While they were absent, our servant had made a fire, and got a kettle of boiling water ready - for making coffee. In ten minutes after their return, the venison and bear’s meat were roasting before the fire, and emitting the most appetizing odors. The method of preparing a fine game dinner with- out a single cooking utensil deserves to be mentioned. First, a number of sticks are cut about two feet in length, the size of one’s finger, divested of their bark, and sharpened at one end. These correspond to the spits in civilized roast-ovens. The meat is now cut up into pieces about three quarters of an inch in thickness AN 38 _ THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, and half the size of one’s hand, with a hole in the cen- tre. Through these the sharpened stick is thrust, and its lower end planted in the ground before the fire. As our fare consisted of venison and bear’s meat, suc- cessive layers of each were put upon the sticks, the fat of the latter, as it dripped down, basting and furnish- ing an excellent gravy to the former. In fifteen minutes, with occasional turning, the dinner was pro- nounced ready to be served up. Being unprovided with the luxury of a table, we seated ourselves on the grass, beneath the wide-spread- ing boughs of a tree, and a few yards from the fire, in order to be near the kitchen, and to have our meats and coffee warm. Before each person was stuck in the ground a stick of the roasted meat. A bag of hard — bread (pilot bread), some sugar, salt, and pepper, were placed near, and each man was provided with 4 tin cup filled with coffee. Thus furnished, and with sharp appetites, we fell to, and never was a feast more heartily appreciated. Our coffee and bread were excellent; and those who were not satisfied with one — stick of meat, found another ready at the fire when the first was gone. By the time we had finished our dinner, it was dark. We then sat for an hour or two listening to the feats and adventures related to us by the hunters before referred to, all of which were exciting and full of interest ; after which, one by one, we rolled ourselves in our blankets, and dropped asleep, dreaming of grizzly bears, elk, venison, and the wild scenery we had beet enjoying during the day. March 23d. Was up by sunrise, after an excellent — aes: = AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 39 night’s rest; and took a bath in the waters of a little stream that tumbled down within twenty feet of our camp-fire, by which time our breakfast was ready. This was a counterpart of yesterday’s dinner, viz., bear’s meat, venison, hard-bread, and coffee. Having dispatched it, we set off for the geysers: Dr. Webb, with his hammer and leather bags for minerals, and with boxes and bottles for small zoological specimens ; Mr. Thurber, with his portfolio for plants; and I, with my sketch-book. We were all provided with pistols or rifles besides. It would have been easier and attended with less risk, to make the descent on foot; but we were obliged to go on horseback, on account of having to ford the stream. The river or creek was from thirty to-forty feet wide where we crossed it, about half up the horse’s middle, and very rapid. On either side, the banks were rocky and steep, rendering it some- what difficult, though with steady animals not a dan- gerous.passage. About a quarter of a mile’ from the opposite bank we dismounted, unsaddled our animals, and staked them out to feast themselves on the rich clover which there abounded, and then completed our journey on foot. A few hundred yards brought us to the first of the geysers, or “volcanoes,” as they were called by our guide. I should not forget to remark, that we saw in several ravines, as we passed along, traces of tormer volcanic action. The rocks were bare, and ina decomposed state, showing the effects of heat or fire, although no heat was then perceptible. At the first place we stopped, there was a show of about half an acre of decomposed granite, and other rocks, from cavities in which issued fumes of sulphur 40 _ THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, and small quantities of steam. At these places were beds of crystallized sulphur; and in others, sulphur was exposed on turning up with a stick the exterior. crust. There was every appearance around us that the rocks had been subjected to an intense heat, which was now gradually abating. After collecting specimens of the sulphur and adjacent rocks, we continued further up. | Another quarter of a mile, over steep hills and across deep ravines, brought us to the principal “ geysers.” Here was truly a grand prospect, and difficult to de- scribe by one unacquainted with such scenes; for to speak with scientific precision of such a remarkable spot as this, the writer should be familiar with volcanic regions and know something of similar phenomena. The action here was confined within a narrow ravine, in the moun- tain side, running nearly at right angles with Pluton River, which we had crossed. The banks were from. - one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and fifty feet in height, breaking in from the mountain, which rose up from ten to fifteen hundred feet above, and were wholly composed of decomposed rocks. In the — : chasm beneath us, columns of steam were spouting out on every side; while deep at the bottom, ran a small rivulet. Vegetation of luxuriant growth crowded close upon the crumbling rocks, consisting of various kinds of shrubbery, pines, oaks, firs, &c. We clambered down to the spot where the scori@ or burnt rock first appeared, and seated ourselves under the shade of a pine tree. From this point I took a sketch looking down the gorge. On each side of where we sat, some twenty or thirty feet below, 2 Oe OEE FERRE FE j distance the water scalded it. From this c _ running stream, was just the width c f my hi AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO, 4] small stream came tumbling down, concealed from view by dense foliage, and united at the base of a jutting mass of rocks, as seen in the sketch. I thrust a staff, which I carried with me, some three or four feet into the crumbled granite beneath; which led us to think it not quite safe to remain where we were. From this place, we got down with some difficulty to the bottom of the gorge, where the main stream ran. The water was-here cold and pure, exhibiting no unpleasant taste. A few yards further brought us into the midst of the pulling geysers, or steam-jets ; for I knew not by what other name to call them. Fumes of sulphur here met our nostrils at every step, while the rustling steam, as it spouted from a hundred cavities, completely envel- oped us. The latter did not issue in one continuous ‘column, but at short intervals, as from the*pipe of a high pressure engine. It was with some difficulty that — we could breathe here among the fumes of sulphur and the steam; and we crouched low in the bed of the rocky stream to avoid them. In cavities along both — banks, and near the running brook, was boiling water, which rose and fell, accompanied by a loud gurgling © noise, resembling that of a gigantic steam condenser, In one of these cavities, stones as large as an egg” oe were in a state of commotion, presenting a curious < - resemblance to a pot of boiling potatoes. I el hand fifteen inches above this boiling po the surface of the boiling water in the cay i W a foot above the running water. The 1 v a 42 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, noise beneath the earth’s surface, quite equal to and resembling that made by several ocean steamers, letting off their steam through their large pipes, loud, deep, and harsh. There was no cessation to this awful roar, but one continued noise, as though a vast workshop ‘beneath was in full operation. The banks of the gorge were now too steep t0 attempt to ascend, nor would it have been safe to do so among so many jets of steam, boiling caldrons, and fumes of sulphur ; so we made our way down the gorge in the very bed of the stream, jumping from rock to rock, first on one side and then on the other, and occasionally, where the stream took a leap, letting ourselves down in the best way we could. Thus we worked our way along for about an hour, filled: with admiration and wonder at the mysterious workings of nature around us. The water, as we advanced, grew warmer, in consequence of accessions from the boiling cavities along its mar gin, until the stream became quite hot. We had here an opportunity to select a bath of any temperature, from one of icy coldness to that of one hundred and fifty degrees ; and we did not fail to improve it in some of the deeper basins of the stream, which seemed pre pared by nature for such a purpose. Having thus refreshed ourselves, we clambered Up the opposite bank; and as we had now passed through that portion of the gorge which had been affected by the heat, we lay down awhile under the shade of a tree on the bank of Pluton River. Looking up here, W® saw before us, at the distance of a few hundred yards another of these voleanic wonders. This was directly on the north-east bank of the stream, and was marke@ — GEYSERS, PLUTON RIVER, CALIFORNIA.—p. 42. AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 43 by a patch of decomposed rock of a whitish cast, cover- ing about an acre. Here also jets of steam issued forth, but not in so many places, nor with as much force as within the gorge just described. Dr. Webb and Mr. Thurber examined it, and afterwards visited several ‘others, further up the river; but none of them were found to equal the first in grandeur. I remained be- hind with Mr. Osborne, to take a sketch from the bank where we stood, showing these last named geysers, and the deep mountain gorge through which Pluton River runs. The scenery here was truly grand. Im- mense pines grew on the mountain sides and tops, while oaks and smaller trees filled the narrow valleys and ravines, which the rains had made. Just below us ran the river, dashing over rocks in its steep descent, and often concealed by the thick foliage which over- hung it. Mr. Osborne and myself then returned and crossed — the foot of the gorge where the great geysers are, with the intention of getting a view of the chasm looking up towards the point from which I had taken my first sketch. To reach this point was easier said than done, and proved the most difficult and only dangerous adventure of the day. However, by lying flat on our breasts and working a resting-place or notch with our feet in the crumbling rocks, and occasionally laying hold of a projecting root, we succeeded in reaching the desired point. Here, on a projecting cliff, grew a few shrubs of the manacita, beneath which I crept on my hands and knees; and having reached the point, sat down and took a sketch, while my companion re- freshed himself beneath the shade. 44, THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, From this point is a fine view of the chasm or gorge, with the little stream at the bottom, and the © jets of steam spouting from its sides. The projecting rock, near which I took the first sketch, is seen at the head of the gorge, and in the centre of the picture. Close upon the decomposed rock appears the luxuriant vegetation; while the mountain, towering far above all, forms the background. The decomposed rocks, of which I have so often spoken, are in general of a whitish cast, curiously interspersed with spots of every hue. I noticed many patches of deep red, and some of light yellow and green; while here and there were others of black, brown, and slate color. Having completed my sketches, we hastened back to the place where we had left our animals. Here we threw ourselves on the grass in a deep grove near the bank of the mountain torrent, to await the return of Dr. Webb, Mr. Thurber, and MacDonald. At the same time I sent my servant ahead to our place of encampment to build a fire, put on a kettle of water, and make other preparations for dinner. Within half an hour our friends made their appearance, when we mounted our nags, recrossed the river, and, after a little hard tugging up the mountain, reached our camp fire in safety, delighted with the adventures of the day. I am not aware that this interesting spot has been visited by any man of science, except Professor Shep- herd, of Western Reserve College, Ohio; and a his experience and profession better fitted him for investigations in such phenomena than mine, I quote 4 AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 45 portion of his remarks, which will convey a fuller and clearer idea than my feeble description. My time while there was short, and mostly spent in making sketches, and in collecting a few specimens of sulphur and of the contiguous rocks; nor had I means of testing or examining the waters. ‘You may here find sulphur water,” says Professor Shepherd,* “ precisely similar to the celebrated White Sulphur of Green Brier County, Virginia, except its icy coldness. Also red, blue, and even black sulphur water, both cold and hot. Also pure limpid hot water, without any sulphur or chlorine salts; calcareous hot waters, magnesian, chalybeate, etc., in almost endless variety. Every natural facility is afforded for either Taper shower, or plunging baths. Where the heated sulphuretted hydrogen gas is evolved, water appears to be suddenly formed, beautiful crystals of sulphur deposited (not sublimated as by fire), and more or less sulphuric acid generated. In some places the acid was found so strong as to turn black kid gloves almost immediately to a deep red. * * * From nume- rous experiments made here and in the mountains of Virginia, I am confident that all sulphur springs possess _, a high temperature, after descending below the cold surface water. Notwithstanding the rocks are so hot as to burn your feet through the soles of your boots, there is no appearance of a volcano in this extraordi- nary spot. There is no appearance of lava. You find yourself standing not in a solfatara, nor one of the salses described by the illustrious Humboldt. The rocks * Silliman’s Journal for November, 1851, p. 156. 46 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, around you are rapidly dissolving under the powerful metamorphic action going on. Porphyry and jasper are transformed into a kind of potter’s clay. Pseudo- trappean rocks ate consumed much like wood in a slow - fire, and go to form sulphate of magnesia and other products. Granite is rendered so soft that you may crush it between your fingers, and cut it as easily as unbaked bread. The feldspar appears to be converted partly into alum. In the mean time the boulders and angular fragments brought down the ravines and river by floods are being cemented into a firm conglomerate; so that it is difficult to dislodge even a small pebble, the pebble itself breaking before the conglomerate yields. 7 7 : “The thermal action on wood in this place is also highly interesting. In one mound I discovered the stump of a large tree silicified; in another, a log changed to lignite or brown coal. Other fragments appeared midway between petrifaction and carboniza- tion. In this connection, finding some drops of a very dense fluid, and also highly refractive, I was led to believe that pure carbon might, under such circum: stances, crystallize and form the diamond. Unfortu nately for me, however, I lost the precious drop iD attempting to secure it. “ A green tree cut down and obliquely inserted 10 one of the conical mounds, was so changed in thirty- six hours that its species would not have been recog nised except from the portion projecting outside, around which beautiful crystals of sulphur had already formed.” : According to the statement of MacDonald, 0 — AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. AT guide, who had made several visits to the geysers, their activity has greatly diminished, or we saw them under less favorable auspices than usual. He said that when last here the water spouted up from five to ten feet in height; that the jets of steam were much larger and more steady ; and furthermore, that a day often ex- hibited a material difference. That the action has les- sened, and nearly ceased, is certain as respects the first one we visited ; for it now appears like an expiring fire. When Professor Shepherd visited this place, a year before us, he says that within the space of half a mile square he ‘discovered from one to two hundred open- ings, through which the steam issued with violence, sending up columns of steam to the height of one hun- dred and fifty to two hundred feet,” * * * and again, ‘throwing out jets or volumes of hot scalding water some twenty or thirty feet, endangering the lives of those who stood near. In some places the steam and water came in contact, so as to produce a constant jet - d'eau, or spouting fountain, with a dense cloud above the spray, affording vivid prismatic hues in the sun- shine.” With such jets of water and steam as these, the grandeur of this extraordinary spot would be greatly enhanced. o Our dinner was soon ready, and we seated our- selves on the grass again, with appetites sharpened by a long fast and a laborious tramp of nearly ten hours. . Sticks of the same delicious bear's meat, and yen son were placed before us, with a second course, on smaller sticks, of some fine grouse which MacDonald had shot. This was a bird I had not before seen. It was larger than the ordinary prairie fowl, and proved 48 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, delicious eating. A bath followed our repast, after which we rolled ourselves up in our blankets and lay down for the night. The novelties of the day occupied our attention for an hour, when we quietly dropped off, and slept as soundly under the protection of the spreading oak as beneath a tent or in the most luxurious chamber. These were the first nights I spent in the open air, on the bare ground, since I was taken sick near Ures; and I felt a little uneasiness at being so exposed. But I neither took cold nor suffered any other incon- venience from it, although in the month of March. One soon becomes habituated to this mode of life, and is less liable to colds and illness than when sleeping under a roof with the addition of comfortable fires. I learned from the hunters who were with us the first night that this region abounds in game, particu- larly bears, elk, and deer. They had been here but ‘three days before our arrival, and in that time they had seen no less than thirty-two bears, most of them of the grizzly species; the others of the brown and black varieties. Of these they had killed and obtained two; three they had wounded and lost. Of deer they had also killed many. The bear’s sense.of smelling is so good, that they soon found out our proximity, and gave us a wide berth. Deer were seen all around us. March 24th. Our excellent guide and hunter, MacDonald, called us to breakfast at daylight; soor after taking which we mounted our animals and began the ascent of the mountain, whose summit we speedily attained. On looking at the valley beyond, we found it completely buried in a fog, the tops of the moun- tains alone being visible. These appeared like islands AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 49 and long necks of land in the midst of a vast body of water. While we were on the crest of the high range, a dense fog so completely enveloped us that we could see nothing but the point on which we stood. We made our way back much more rapidly than we came, it being earlier in the day and much cooler; so that by twelve o'clock we were at MacDonald’s place, where we dined and allowed our animals to feed and rest. | At half-past two we bade farewell to our kind and hospitable hosts, Mr. and Mrs. MacDonald, and resum- ed our journey. Stopped for fifteen minutes at Mr. Knight’s, when we again pushed on, and reached Mr. Kilburn’s at sunset. This gentleman was now at home, and gave us a warm reception. We learned many particulars from him corroborating the statements we had heard of the extraordinary fertility of the soil. in Napa Valley, as well as the great yield of vegeta- bles on his own land, of which I have before spoken. March 25th. Took an early start, first making inquiries of Mr. Kilburn about the locality of some hills of “ black flint” which we had heard of. We had occasionally picked up along the road small pieces of obsidian, and were extremely desirous to find whence they came. After many inquiries we were directed to the farm of Mr. Kelly, who has a small mill on Napa Creek, a short distance from the road. We found Mr. Kelly at home; and on making known our wishes to examine the place referred to, he took a spade and accompanied us to the spot, about half a mile distant, on the eastern side of the valley. We found it to be a spur of the mountain ridge, about eighty feet in VoL. 1,—4 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN. 50 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, height, projecting quite out into the plain. The whole seemed full of obsidian, covered with a layer of earth, on which is a thick growth of trees and shrubbery, save on the summit, where there is less soil. Here in many places the surface was covered, from six to twelve inches in depth, with broken pieces and small boulders of this volcanic substance, resembling @ newly made macadamized road. 3 Taking the spade, I scraped away the fragments and loose pieces to reach themass below. This we found existing in a conglomerate state. The mass which the obsidian is imbedded is quite soft and friable towards the surface ; so that it was difficult to detach it with the obsidian adhering to it, except in very ‘small pieces. The largest of the specimens obtained was about the size and shape of an ostrich’s egg, from which they diminished to that of a pea. Many pre sented sharp angles, where they had come in contact and been broken. The substance in which the obsi- - dian is imbedded resembles a coarse mortar of lime, sand, and gravel. I took a sketch of Napa Valley from these hills, showing Mount Diabolo in the dis- tance, which is plainly seen from San Francisco and Sacramento. _ Obsidian is used by the Indians for their arrow heads in all parts of North America west of the Rocky Mountains. It is found too among many tribes to the east of this range. The ancient Mexicans made of it the knives which they used in their sacrifices _ We found small fragments of it along the Gila, wher ever there had been any Indian villages; and also among the ruins of the Casas Grandes, in Chihuahua, — a RE AND RETURN TO SAN ‘FRANCISCO. 51 as well as those of the Gila and Salinas Rivers. The Apaches had arrows pointed with the same material. Yet I know of no other locality where obsidian is found in place in any of the regions visited by the Boundary Commission except this. All the specimens we saw were black, occasionally with a smoky or brownish tint.* We now continued our journey, and reached Mr. Osborne’s at two o’clock. After dinner we rambled over the adjacent hills to obtain a better view of this delightful valley, which+lost none of its beauties from whatever point it was observed. On the opposite side of the mountains which bound Napa Valley on the west, is Sonoma Valley. © This is similarly situated, running north and south between ranges of low mountains. It likewise pos- sesses great, Sotidity, but has not the picturesque beauty of Napa. The same may be said of the valleys of Petaluma, Novato, and San Rafael. March 26th. Took an early breakfast and bade adieu to our kind and gentlemanly host, who intended to follow us in a few hours. We did not wait for him, as he wished to stop on the way, and I was desirous to pay my respects to General Hitchcock and the other — officers at Benicia before returning to San bigs * Obsidian is said by Pliny (Nat. Hist. xxxvi. 26) to have first found in Ethiopia by a person named Obsidius, from — rives its name. It occurs also in various parts 0 Pes - ue America, and in the vicinity of most voleanoes. Pliny : says that gems, and sometimes whole statues, were made of it. He also speaks of four _ of obsidian, ween were dedicated by — in the temple oO ord, 52 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, ETC. As it was quite cool, we were enabled to ride fast and reach Benicia by two o'clock. Took dinner, and afterwards walked out to the military pést, when I made my calls upon the officers there. Mr. Osborne joined us at five o'clock, and at seven we took the steamboat for San Francisco, where we arrived at nine. THE QUICKSILVER MINES, ETO. 53 CHAPTER XXIV. THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN. Leave San Francisco—San José Valley—Fertility of the soil—Mission of Santa Clara—San José—New Almaden—Quicksilver mine—Mode of extracting the ore—Large tanks of quicksilyer—Account of the quick- silver mines of Spain—Production of this metal in all parts of the world—Situation of the New Almaden mine—Descent into it—How worked—Laborers—Extent of the mine—Effect of the mercury on laborers—History of the mine—Return to San Francisco—Captain Sut- ter—His history. I ReMarNED in San Francisco until the 2d of April, to close up my business there before returning to San Diego. To make the most of my time while in Cali- fornia, I determined to undertake the journey to Mon- terey by land, first sending forward our outfit and Supplies. _ No event of interest happened while here except a trip which, in company with a small party, we at- tempted to make in the steamer Active, Capt. Alden, — altached to the U. S. Coast Survey, to the Faralones. — These are some small rocky islands, which lie twenty- five or thirty miles off the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco. The party, however, were so late in assembling, that after getting outside the entrance or Golden Gate, it was found we could not reach the 54 THE QUICKSILVER MINES islands before nightfall ; in consequence of which the voyage was abandoned. April 2d. Left San Francisco at 8 o’clock in th stage for San José, forty miles distant. We were accompanied by Doctor A. Randall, a: gentleman of science long resident in the country, and familiar with its localities of interest. Our course was south through | the San José valley, which in many respects resembles — the beautiful valley of Napa. It is entirely flat, with scarcely an undulation. Like the former, it is filled © in many places with large wide-spreading oaks. There are also spaces for miles destitute of trees or shrubs, resembling the broad grassy plains of lower Texas; while again appear beautiful groves and clusters of oaks, cypresses, and sycamores, as picturesquely dis- posed as if planted by the hand of a skilful landscape gardener. The soil is rich, and was covered with @ luxuriant growth of wild clover and grass. This val- ley extends for more than a hundred miles towards Monterey, being separated from the coast by a range of low mountains. Its width for a long distance after leaving San Francisco is not less than fifteen miles, though it diminishes as we approach San José. Yet this entire valley has all been taken up, and covered with claims upon claims; so that for many years to come the lawyers will doubtless derive the largest income from it. As yet there are few settlers upoD it, and but little land under cultivation. When we take . into consideration the extraordinary fertility of the soil in California, it will be seen that such an immens¢ tract as this San José valley is capable of producing ® vast deal towards supplying the State with food. Its _ vol, ii. AND FORT POINT. ENTRANCE TO SAN FRANCISCO,—p. 54. a u GOLDEN GAT OF ~~ ALMADEN. o8 value is justly ends by the people; as is shown by the readiness with which the stock for a railroad to connect San José with San Francisco was taken up. The road is excellent for the entire distance, and the stage rolled rapidly over it. Three miles from San Jose we passed the mission of Santa Clara, a collection of old buildings with a church. Here the land seemed to have been long under cultivation, judging from the long rows of venerable and gigantic overgrown oaks which border the road. There were also some fine large orchards and vineyards here, which belong to the mission. But the stage did not stop; and we had no time to examine it. At half-past four, we reached San José.* : *T cannot refrain from quoting a passage-from Vancouver, one of the most reliable of the early voyagers to California, giving an account of his journey from Manterey to Santa Clara. The reader will be struck with the resemblance between this district as described by him and the keautiful valley I visited north of San Francisco. “ We considered our route to be parallel to the sea- -coast; between which and our path, the ridge of mountains extended to the south-éant- ward; and as we advanced, their sides and summits exhibited a high depres of ‘luxuriant fertility, interspersed with copses of various forms and magnitude, and verdant open spaces enriched with stately fruit- trees of different descriptions. About noon we arrived at a very pleasant and enchanting lawn, situated amidst a grove of trees at the foot of a small hill, by which flowed a very fine stream of excellent water. We . had not proceeded far from this delightful spot, when we entered a country I little expected to find in these regions. For about twenty miles, it could only be compared to a park which had originally been — planted with the true old English oak; the underwood that had pro- bably attained its early growth, had the appearance of having been clear- ed away, and had left the stately lords of the forest in complete posses- sion of the soil, which was covered with luxuriant herbage, and beauti- 56. THE QUICKSILVER MINES Santa Clara was but recently occupied by a priest; it has now shared the fate of all the other missions of the State, which have either been abandoned or have fallen into the hands of speculators. — April 3d. After breakfast, walked about the town, but found nothing ofinterest. The pueblo of San José, _ is an old*place; its admirable situation, at the head of the rich and beautiful valley I have described, attract- ed the attention of the Americans soon after the subju- gation of the country, and it was selected as the capitol of the State. This gave to it an impetus, and brought it at once into notice. Many hotels and other build- ings soon sprang up, a large city was laid out, and, as is usual in such cases, much money was made and lost. But its growth was as suddenly checked by the subse- quent selection of another place for the future capitol. It is situated about five miles from the southern extremi- ty of the Bay of San Francisco ; and being in the centre of one of the most fertile districts in the State, it will yet become its first agricultural town. . On inquiring’ for Indians here, I learnt that there was a woman of the San Luis Obispo tribe, living in the place. I lost no time in calling upon her, and found she was married to an American. She proved, as Thad heard, to be quite an intelligent person, about 35 years of age, living in a comfortable house with her family around her. On my requesting to know the principal fully diversified with pleasing eminences and valleys ;_ which, with the lofty range of mountains that bounded the prospect, required only to be adorned with the neat habitations of an industrious people, to produce a scene not inferior to the most studied effect of taste in the disposal of grounds.” — Vancouver's Voyages, vol. ii. p. 16. : Beis oe Dated ba Nah OF NEW ALMADEN. 57 words of her language, she readily complied; and in a few hours, I obtained a most satisfactory vocabulary. In the afternoon, we took the stage for New Alma- den, thirteen miles distant. Our route lay through a valley.of unequalled beauty, the entire distance being dotted with large oaks and sycamores, with an occasional clump of firs and red-woods, the latter towering high above all others. There are some clusters of these red- woods of enormous size between here and Monterey, of which we heard much, and regretted that we had no time to visit them. On reaching the town, I drove at once to the house of Mr. Young, the superintendent of the quicksilver mines, to whom I had.a letter of introduction from Captain Hallock, U. 8. A. of San Fran- cisco, one of the officers of the Company. April 4th. New Almaden consists exclusively of the buildings belonging to the company which owns the quicksilver mine. It embraces furnaces, store- houses, dwelling-houses for the officers and laborers, offices, mechanics’ shops, &c. Many of them are of wood; but a large and fine range of substantial brick buildings is now in the process of erection, to take the place of the woodenones. The novelty of the business of extracting the quicksilver from the cinnabar, required — a number of experiments, involving a very heavy ex- penditure ; for there was but one other mine in the , world, that of Almaden in Spain, where the operation Was carried on on a large scale, and it could not be — expected that a rival company like this, whose opera~ tions would effectually destroy the monopoly the latter had for ages enjoyed, would be permitted to derive any information from their “— experience. Machine- 58 THE QUICKSILVER MINES ry of various kinds was therefdre imported from Eng- land and the United States at enormous cost, much of which has since been rejected, either on account of the great expense of running it, or its inadequacy to per- form the service required. Six furnaces are now in operation reducing the ore, all of which seem to be alike, and of the most simple construction. On these furnaces the ore isheaped. A steady, though not very strong fire, is then applied. As the ore becomes heat- ed, the quicksilver is sublimed; and then being con- densed, it falls by its own weight, and is conducted by pipes which lead along the bottom of the furnace to small pots or reservoirs imbedded in the earth, each containing from one to two gallons of the ore. The furnaces are kept going night and day, while large drops or minute streams of the pure metal are constantly trickling down into the receptacles. From these it is carried to the store-house, and deposited in large cast- iron tanks or vats. These are of various shapes and sizes, and are fixed in solid beds of stone and mortar. The largest, a square vat between four and five feet across, contained twenty tons of pure quicksilver. BY way of illustrating the great specific gravity of this metal, a board was placed on it, upon which I sat, thus floating upon a bed of quicksilver ; yet my weight did not sink the board to the depth of a quarter ofan inch. On thrusting my bare arm into this vat, a most sing lar and chilling sensation was produced. I then took a stick of light and porous wood, which I immersed for about a minute; and when I withdrew it, the metal had penetrated through every portion of it, so that weight it was little less than the quicksilver itself. vol. i. W ALMADEN, CALIFORNIA.—p. 58. ay vi QUICKSILVER FURNACES, NE OF NEW ALMADEN. 59 In the warehouse the metal is prepared for market. This is done by putting it into wrought iron flasks or canisters ‘holding 75 pounds each. It is dipped up with ladles, and poured into the flasks through an ordi- nary tin funnel. The opening or neck of the flask (which in form is something like a junk bottle) is then stopped with a close-fitting screw, put in with a Vice, so as to make it tight as possible. These flasks, which weigh twenty-five pounds each, are all made in England, where I suppose they can be furnished much cheaper than in the United States. From the ware- house the flasks are transported by ox-carts to tide- water, about twenty miles distant, whence they are shipped to San Francisco. The present (1852) price of the metal there is sixty cents a pound, a very great reduction from that which the quicksilver from Spain has commanded, though of equal quality. A shipment of a thousand flasks was lately made to Canton, by way of an experiment. In China it is chiefly used in the manufacture of vermilion and other articles of com- merce, * * As this is the only quicksilver mine yet known in the United States, and is only second in the world to that of Almaden, in Spain, a few words on the latter, and of other quicksilver mines, do not seem inap- propriate, Quicksilver, or mercury, has been known from the earliest ages, but is found nowhere in large quantities, except in Spain and California: Almaden has long been famed for its mines of this metal, which, accord- ing to Bowles, are the richest in their produce, the most instructive as to the mode of working them, the most curious for their natural history, and the most ancient in the world. We find them mentioned in Theo- phrastus, three hundred years before Christ, and Vitruvius also speaks of them. Pliny places Cisapona, or as it is sometimes written Sisapona, 60 THE QUICKSILVER MINES I did not learn what quantity was produced at the time of my visit here, but have since seen it stated to be about one thousand flasks per month, or nearly a million pounds a year. According to Dumas, the an- in Beetica, and says that this mine was kept sealed with the greatest care, and was only opened to take the quantity of cinnabar necessary for the consumption of Rome. (Nat. Hist. xxxiii. 7.) The Romans con- sidered this mineral poisohous; but notwithstanding this, their matrons painted their faces with it, and their painters employed it as a pigment. The Romans certainly worked this mihe, but no traces remain of their labors. The Moors, perhaps owing to some ‘prejudice, did not work it. “The country about Almaden abounds in iron mines; and what 1s more surprising, in the same mine we find iron, mercury, and sulphur, mixed so as to form onemass. The neighboring hills are found of the same stone, and on all of them the same species of plants grow; from which we may infer that the mercury does not possess any poisonous qualities, as is generally supposed, injurious to vegetation. “ The brothers Mark and Christopher Fugger, of Germany, undertook to work this mine, and contracted to give the government four thousand five hundred quintals (of 100Ibs. each) of mercury, annually; but not being able to fulfil their promise, they abandoned it in 1635, together with the silver mine of Gualcanal, which they also had. While con- — nected with these mines, however, their riches became proverbial in Spain, and their descendants live at present in Germany, with the rank of princes. A branch of this family afterwards took the mine, and worked it till 1645. In the following year, the government undertook the man- agement of it. Don Juan Bustamente established the furnaces, and al troughs for cooling the mineral. These furnaces are twelve, and are called by the names of the twelve apostles, . Each is capable of contain- ing ten tons weight of stone. The furnace is kept burning for three days, and the same period is required for cooling.”— Introduction & la Geo- grafica Fisica y la Eistoria Natural de Espana. The other quicksilver mines worthy of notice, are one at Huancave lica, in Peru; at Idria in Carniola; in Hungary, Transylvania, and the district of Deux Ponts in Germany. There is a mine of cinnabar nea Alicante, and another not far from San Felipe in Spain. Mercury OF NEW ALMADEN. 61 nual product of the Spanish mine at Almaden is about three millions of pounds. April 4th. After breakfast wé set out on foot for the mine, which is situated near the top of a mountain immediately adjoining the works. The ascent begins directly in the rear of the store-houses, by a well con- also been found in China and Japan: and though the amount of the produce is unknown, it is believed to be considerable. Le Play, a French geologist, who visited Almaden in 1833, describes the mines as being richer than at any former period, furnishing anually nearly 2,244,000 pounds of mercury. About seven hundred workmen are employed under ground, and two hundred in the operations con- nected with extraction of the metal from the ore at the surface. According to Dumas, the following mines yield annually, the annex- ed number of re of mercury (a quintal is 108 Ibs. avoirdupois, nearly) : Almaden (Spain) 25,000 to 32,000. Tdria 6,000 “ — 10,000. Hunga Sana vind ' 790 - riot Deux Ponts 400 . 500 Palatinate 180-6." . 200. Huancavelica $000 «258 3,000. At present, it is understood that Messrs. Rothschild, of London, have the control of the Almaden mines. During the year 1853, the total exports of quicksilver from San - cisco, amounted to 18,800 flasks, valued at $683,189. All this, with the large amount used in California, was the ine of the New Almaden mine. The following shows to what points the quicksilver was exported: “ Hongkong, 5,642 flasks, valued at see =: Shanghae, 812, $31,199 ; Canton, 366, $14,125 ;. Whampoa, 300, $11,500; = cutta, 50, $1, 875 ; Mazatlan; 2,811, $96, 250 ; Mazatlan and San Blas, 255, $10, 000: San Blas, 1,942, $72,463 ; Callao, 1,800, $66,500 ; Val- paraiso, 1,977, $71,875; New-York, 1,845, $77,180 ; Philadelphia, 1,000, $50,000. 62 THE QUICKSILVER MINES structed road of gradual and easy ascent, which the Company has been engaged in making for the last six months. It is a mile in length, and is now only used by mules; but it is intended to use carts and wagons on it. It winds the whole way along the side of the mountain, rising twenty-five feet in every hundred until you reach the mouth of the mine, at an elevation of a little less than one thousand feet above the com- mencement of the ascent. About one hundred and fifty feet, in a direct line below the opening, they were digging a tunnel for the purpose of intersecting the main shaft. This tunnel, which is cut entirely through the solid rock, had already pierced the mountain seven or eight hundred feet, and will, when completed, be not much short of one thousand feet. It is about eight feet high, and between eight and ten feet wide. This will prove 4 vast saving in labor; for the ore up to the time of our visit was transported on the backs of men in leather sacks from the bottom of the shafts to the entrance to the mine, a distance of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred feet. It is not the cinnabar alone that has to be thus carried from the bottom of the mine, but the refuse rock, which forms a greater bulk than the ore itself. It cannot be separated in the mine, but has all to be brought to the surface. We waited for Mr. Bester, the engineer, to join us before entering the mine; and as he had not returned from San José, where we left him, we determined to forego the examination of its interior to-day, and ¢oD- tent ourselves with what we could see on the sur face. ¢ rr yee OF NEW ALMADEN. : 63 The mountain rises one hundred and sixty feet above the entrance to the mine, terminating’ in a cone. On a level with the entrance, a quarter of a mile dis- tant, is the village, perched on the very summit of a rock, in which the miners live with their families. This mountain, as well as the others adjoining it, is covered with grass, and dotted with small oaks to its summit. There is nothing to distinguish the mountain in which the mine is worked from the others; hence it is reasonable to suppose that they may also contain veins of cinnabar. The intervening valleys are well wooded, and have a thick undergrowth. ° April 5th. Set out this morning for the mine, ac- companiedsby Mr. Bester, on mules, as the journey up was fatiguing, and we wished to preserve our strength for the exploration of the various shafts. On reach- ing the entrance, we found all actively employed ;— the laborers emerging every minute from the mines, bent under the weight of their loads, which they deposited under a shed about eighty feet from the opening. Here the ore was separated, the refuse being thrown down the hill, and the rest laid aside to be sent to the furnaces. At the same time the mulada, or collection of some eighty or.a hundred mules, was being loaded with the ore. This was put into se ae or panniers of raw hide, which hung across il backs like saddle-bags, each mule carrying average a carga, or three hundred pounds. Me by with a balance, in which every mule load was Weighed, so that the exact quantity of ore sent to the furnaces is known. The weighing is also necessary ; as the company pays so much : a carga in! bringing it 64 THE QUICKSILVER MINES from the bottom to the surface, and for transporting it from the mine to the furnaces. This plan is preferred by the proprietors to that of employing the laborers directly themselves. The work is wholly performed by native Mexicans or Californians, the overseers and contractors who employ them being their countrymen, though of a better class. These men understand the management of their countrymen better than Ameri- cans do; and the Mexican laborers are better arrieros, and ieiticbtand all that appertains to the mule better than Americans. The laborers wore no clothing, save a breech- cloth, and a handkerchief around their heads. The arrieros had on but little more; a faney colored calico shirt being the extent of their additional cos tume. The laborers who bring up the ore to the sur- face make from forty to fifty trips a day. The mules make but two journeys from the mine to the furnaces, completing their day’s labor by one o’clock. They are then turned out to feed in the valley or on the mout- tain side, where the grass is good. With so little labor, they are always in fine condition. About two hundred men are employed in the various operations carried on here. After being provided with torches, consisting of @ candle fastened to the end of a stick, we comniensell the descent of the mine, Mr. Bester, the enginee!; taking the lead. We first advanced some sixty feet in a horizontal direction, after which the shaft takes a turn downwards, and soon after becomes perpe2” dicular. In such places the descent is made ona single — notched log, which is preferred by the miners to the OF NEW ALMADEN. 65 common ladder; and although very awkward at first, we soon got used to it. With one hand you take hold of the ladder, and with the other the torch. These lad- ders, although almost perpendicular, are seldom more than twelve or fifteen feet long, being separated by intervals, where the descent is more gradual, with steps cut in the rock. In this way we passed down through various shafts or veins to the bottom of the mine, two hundred feet below the entrance. Passa- ges following the veins of ore extend in every direc- asa. sometimes horizontal, then perpendicular, and again at every inclination. Their whole extent now exceeds seven thousand feet. When a vein is struck, it is followed as far as it can be with safety, what- ever may be its course. The engineer, who keeps before him a map of the mine, is oblivsd to have an eye to the support of the superincumbent mass. Some of the veins are five feet in diameter, others half that size. Some are also richer than others. In each of the veins is a single miner; for not more than one can work to advantage in these narrow re- cesses. Picks, drills, and crowbars are the tools used. The miners are paid in different ways; some at a stipu- lated price for each foot of the rock excavated, and others at a certain rate per carga (three hundred pounds) of ore carried to the surface. On reaching the greatest depth, where the ore is very rich, I took 3 a pick and knocked off some fine specimens. “We retraced our steps, and reached the open air in safety. It is an evidence of the admirable system pursued here, and the watchful care exercised by the company | over their. _ that no accident has yet happened VOL * 66 ‘THE QUICKSILVER MINES to any miner or carrier engaged in these subterranean labors. The workmen, nevertheless, are not without their fears, and have taken their own method to secure themselves from harm, by placing in a niche just with- in the entrance to the mine, an image of their saint, very prettily decorated with muslin and gaudy silks. Before this every man falls on his knees, and says his © . prayers, invoking the protection of the saint during the day. Ihave never seen a more happy and contented set of laborers than these. Knowing the effects of mercury on the system, the question will naturally arise in the mind of the reader as to whether those employed in the mine or about the furnaces suffer from their close contact with the ore or the quicksilver. The miners, and those who merely handle the cinnabar, are not injured thereby ; but those who work about the furnaces, and inhale the fumes of the metal, are seriously affected. Salivation is common ; and the attendants on the furnaces are compelled to desist from their labor every three or four weeks, when a fresh set of hands is put on. The horses and mules are also salivated; and from twenty to thirty of them die every year from the effects of the mercury. The ore, after it is deposited near the furnaces, is separated according to its quality. The larger masses are first broken up, and then all is piled up under sheds near the furnace doors. Seven or eight days are required to fill the furnaces, extract the quicksilver, and remove the residuum, the latter being the most dangerous part of the process. All is done as much in the open air as possible, the furnaces being merely protected by a roof. Xt \, OF NEW ALMADEN. 67 I took several sketches of the village of New Al- maden, as well as of the exterior of the mine, and the picturesque scenery in the vicinity. The company possess a large tract of land here, including mountain, hill, and valley. Much of it is welltimbered. A fine stream of water runs directly through the village; and on its very margin is a natural soda spring, which may yet make this spot doubly attractive. This mine was long known to the Indians, who resorted hither for the vermillion which they could col- lect from the cinnabar. They had dug some thirty or forty feet into the mountain; but it does not appear ever to have been worked by the Spaniards. In recent times, its commercial value was first discovered by Sefior Castillero, who became its legal owner. Don José Castro, who subsequently became proprietor of it, sold out his interest to Barron & Forbes, an Eng- lish house doing business in Mexico. Another partner is Mr. Walkinshaw, an English gentleman long resident in Mextco, and well skilled in mining. This gentle- man now resides about a mile from New Almaden, on one of the natural parks which I have before described, and which he is rendering still more beautiful by the introduction of fruit-trees, vines, flowering shrubs, ete. To this gentleman, to Mr. Young, the superintendent, and Mr. Bester, the engineer, I feel under many _ gations for the civilities extended to me and the g gen tlemen who were with me, in our visit to New Alma-— den and its mine. After a sumptuous dinner, 1 we > took the stage and returned to San José. April 6th. In coming to San José, I I had the double object in view of visiting the quicksilv r mine, and of THE QUICKSILVER MINES . vA continuing on by land to Monterey ; but I here ieakned that it would be impossible to proceed further by land, as the heavy rains and freshets a few weeks before, had carried away the bridges, and rendered the streams im- passable, except by swimming the horses. This I did not feel disposed to do: so the only alternative was to return to San Francisco, and go to San Diego by water. We accordingly took the stage at 8 o’clock, with twen- ty-one passengers inside and out; and reached San Francisco at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. I remained in San Francisco six days, waiting for a steamer to San Diego; and during this time I had the pleasure of meeting with Captain Sutter, whose name is well known to all who have heard or read of the recent history of California. The history of his early adventures has been on several occasions presented to the public by letter-writers; so that it will be super- fluous at this time to relate them, excepting the follow- ing anecdote, which I have not seen in print. “While in Oregon, whither he had come grom the United States, Captain Sutter met with a party who gave such a glowing account of California and particu- larly of the valley of the Sacramento, that he determin- ed to visit it, believing it to be precisely the rich coun try and salubrious climate of which he was in search. But to get there was not so easy, there being then no com munication from Oregon by sea. He therefore shaped his course for the Sandwich Islands, and from thence to Mexico. At San Blas or Mazatlan, he found a vessel about sailing for Monterey; he embarked: in her, and afterwards reached the Bay of San Francisco, nearly twelve months after leaving Oregon. But the country re eres By OF NEW ALMADEN. 69° he was in search of was a perfect terra incognita even to the people who then composed the settlement at Yerba Buena; nor could he gain any information re- specting the river which lea to it, or even as to where it entered the bay. His scheme of settling in the inte- rior among the wild Indians, was considered a danger- - ous one, and efforts were made to dissuade him from it ; but he had made up his mind to go, and accordingly got a small boat and set off with a few men to find the Sacramento River. They coasted along the bay in vain for several days, and were about to abandon their search, when one night as they were moving slowly along by moonlight, Captain Sutter himself discovered an opening hich proved to be the mouth of that river. He passed up it, and selected the spot where he built his fort, and of which he afterwards obtained a aie from the Mexican government.’ When we hear of the pioneers of the West, we imagine them to be such as our Daniel Boon, who led the life of a hunter, trapper, and Indian fighter, until his home was surrounded by settlers, when he again moved farther off, desiring always to be beyond the © pale of civilization. Captain Sutter was not of this class ; although he has had his share in fighting the battles oe of Europe, as well as encountering the Indian on the prairie. He has the manners of an intelligent and seis ; < teous gentleman, accustomed to move in polished § ty. He speaks several languages with fluency. He is kind, hospitable, and generous to a fault ; as very man} ihunetieine know who have lived on his ‘bounty. Had he been permitted to retain his immense estate on the — . Sacramento, and dispose of it as wanted by actual set- 70 THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN. tlers, he would have been one of the richest men in America; but speculators took advantage of his easy disposition, led him into wild speculations, induced him to lend his name to a large amount, and thus extorted from him or compelled him to give up all of his valu- able property, but the Hock farm, where he now re- sides. He still seems cheerful, and endeavors to make the most of his misfortunes. When I saw him, he told me he had not visited San Francisco for a year.* * Captain Sutter is a native of Switzerland, from 55 to 60 years of age, and of fine personal appearance. He was one of the officers of the Swiss Guard in the Revolution of July, during the reign of Charles X- After this he emigrated to the United States, became naturalized, and resided several years in Missouri. From thence he went overland to Oregon, and in 1839 reached California. He bought out the Russian establishment at Fort Ross and Bodega, when the Russians abandoned their settlement in California. His fort on the Sacramento was a large inclosure, five hundred feet in length by one hundred and fifty in breadth, where he had under his control a body of Indians, whom he employed in cultivating the soil. After obtaining his large grant from Mexico, that government made him military commander of the frontier. RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. 7] CHAPTER XXYV. RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. Leave San Francisco—Monterey—Its harbor—Society—Californian ladies —Father Juniper Serro’s account of Monterey in 1770—Visit to the Mis- sion of San Carlos at Carmel—Father Garces’ visit in 1777—Leave Monterey—Point Conception—San Pedro—Visit to Los Angeles prairies—Large herds of cattle—Vineyards and wines—Indians of the Missions—Mission of San Gabriel—Return to San Pedro—Craw fish— Arrival at San Diego—Preparations for return to E] Paso—Engage Mr. Leroux, as guide—Trip to Los Coronados—Description of these islands—Sea Lions—Climate of San Diego—Visit to the Mission of San Luis Rey—Extensive buildings—Fine Valley—Kechi Indians—History of Father Peyri—Description of the harbor of San Diego—Viscaino’s account of San Diego in 1602—Father Juniper Serro’s account in 1769—Mission of San Diego—Picturesque situation—Fine lands—Olive trees—Society of San Diego—Initial Point and monument on the Pa- cific. Oy the 14th of April I embarked in the steamer Ohio for Monterey, at which place I intended availing my- self of a polite invitation given me by Captain Ottin- ger, of the United States revenue cutter Frolic, to take — passage with him for San Diego, His duties required him to stop at the various ports between the two places, which would give me a better opportunity to See the country than by remaining on board the Steamer. We went to sea at five p.m. with a large number of passengers, and, having but little wind, 72 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO shot rapidly through the “Golden Gate.” Outside it was so calm, that the broad surface of the Pacific resembled an ocean of glass. April 15th. Reached Monterey at eleven, s. ™., where I found Captain Ottinger with his beautiful little craft. | The coast between San Francisco and Monterey presents nothing but low sandy hills, covered with chapporal or scanty verdure. Large quantities of sand are blown up from the sea, and in many places overtop the vegetation. : On coming to this place from San Francisco, one is struck with its remarkable dulness; yet until the discovery of gold in the country, it was the chief place on the coast, and the capital of California. Many of its houses are now deserted, or in a dilapi- dated state, and the grass may be seen growing in its streets. The town is prettily situated ona gentle slope of land, facing the north, about two miles from Point Pinos, which forms the southern extremity of the har- bor or roadstead. The harbor is not a good one, being exposed to the prevailing north-westerly winds, and exhibiting a long beach, with as troublesome a surf as the open sea. From the southwesters it is well pro- tected by Point Pinos. On the east isa succession of small hills, rising one above the other directly from the slope on which the town stands, and covered chiefly with pines. Behind, and immediately contiguous to these, rises the coast range of mountains. On the north, the bay makes a broad semi-circular sweep SOME fifteen or twenty miles distant, terminating at a point vol. ii. MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, —p. 72. TO SAN DIEGO. 73 on the ocean opposite to, though far outside of, Point Pinos, and not visible from the town. The houses are of two classes; first, those of adobe, belonging to the old town. These are large and well built, many being of two stories, with projecting eaves to protect them from the sun. Those of wood are of recent erection, ‘and have not the substantial appearance of the adobe buildings; these latter have very thick walls asa secu- rity from the earthquakes, which, though not severe, are quite common here. An old church stands alone upon the plain east of the town, which appeared to be in a ruinous condition. Beyond this is a lagoon, said to separated from it by a sandy beach, and a grassy mea- dow, about a quarter of a mile in width. The old pre- sidio, or garrison, is on an elevation back of the town, towards Point Pinos, and is now occupied by United States troops. Monterey has always been noted for its excellent society; and although the Americans have monopo- lized every other town in the State, it still preserves much of its original character. The old Californian or Castilian families are still in the ascendancy; but the young Americans and other foreigners are making ter- rible inroads upon them, and carrying off their fair daughters. Many officers of the United States army have married in California; and from what I heard, here and at other places, others intend following their _ example. The young sefioritas certainly possess many attractions; and although shut up in this secluded _ part of the world, sitlsot the advantages of a good » education, or of ais with refined society, they — 7 . have been formerly connected with the bay, but now , * 74 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO need not fear a comparison with our own ladies. In deportment they are exceeding gentle and ladylike, with all the natural grace and dignity which belong to the Castilian nation. Their complexion is generally as fair as the Anglo-Saxon, particularly along the sea coast, with large black eyes and hair. In this respect they differ much from the Mexican ladies of the interior, who are generally brunettes. In form too they differ from their Mexican sisters. The latter are too often short and stout, while the Californian ladies are as slender and delicate in form as those of our Atlantic © States. I was struck too with the elegance and purity of their language, which presented a marked contrast with the corrupt dialect spoken in Mexico. The Californians as a people appear superior to the Mexicans, which may be attributed to two causes. Both countries, it is true, were colonized by the same race ; but I think a superior class of men came to Cali- fornia,-who have preserved their Castilian blood from all admixture with that of the aborigines. There were, doubtless, fewer of the poorer class too who came here, owing to the greater length and cost of the joul ney, and the increase by immigration has been trifling since. The original colonists possessed large tracts of lands, and have ever since continued in an isolated state, marrying among themselves, and enjoying 4 life of luxury and ease. The climate, unlike that of Mex ico, is healthy and invigorating; while the humid — atmosphere of the coast gives a fairness and brilliancy to the complexion unknown to the dry and burning plains of Mexico. _ Although San Franciecqagal always rank first 1” TO SAN DIEGO. 75 the scale of Californian cities, by reason of its superior harbor and great commercial facilities, Monterey will become the residence of gentlemen of fortune, on account of its more genial climate and its distance from the noise and bustle of a great city. It will be to San Francisco what Newport is now to New York. The following account of Monterey was written by the Reverend president of the California missions, F. Ju- nipero Serra, to his biographer, Father Palou, in a letter announcing his arrival at this place. It appears that an expedition sent by land to Monterey failed to reach it, but found San Francisco; and that subsequently two other expeditions, one by land the other by water, were sent in search of it. In the latter of these was Father Junipero. He thus writes:* ‘‘ Long live Jesus, Mary, and Joseph! ‘Reverend Father, Professor, and President, Fr. Francisco Palou: ‘‘My dearest Friend and Sir:—On the 31st oe May, by the favor of God, after a painful voyage of g month and a half, the eke! San Antonio, commanded by Don Juan Peres, arrived and anchored in this horrible port of Monterey, which is the same, unaltered in appearance and condition, that it was when visited by the expedition of Don Sebastian Viscayno, in the year 1603. It gave me great satisfaction to learn that eight days previous the land expedition had arrived, and with it Father Juan, and that all were in good health. When the holy day of Pentecost arrived, : * Relacion Historica de la Vida y apostolicas Tareas del padre Fray Junipero Serra, por Fr. Francisco Palou, p. 101. Mexico, 1787. 76 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO which was.on the 3d of June, the whole of the officers, naval as well as military, and all the people, assenibled together in a small ravine, where the Fathers caused / an altar to be erected, and the bells to be rung. They then chanted the Vent Creator, blessed the water, — erected and blessed a grand cross and the royal stand- ards, and chanted thé first mass that was ever per- formed in this place. We afterwards sung the Salve ~ to our Lady, before an image of the most illustrious Virgin, which occupied the altar, and then I preached asermon. We concluded the festival with a Te Deum. After this the officers took possession of the coun — try in the name of our Lord the King, whom God pre- serve. We all dined together in a shady place on the beach; the whole ceremony being accompanied by many volleys and salutes, on the land as well as from the vessels. To God alone be the honor and glory! “With regard to the former expedition, its not finding the port of which it was in search, and having asserted that it did not exist, I will express no opinion, and wil not judge of their motives. It ‘is enough to say, that it has been found, and the duty performed, although rather late. This I desire may be made known to the Visitor General, and to all those who feel an interest in this spiritual conquest. ‘‘Mission of San Carlos de Monterey. June, the day of San Antonio Padua, 1770. rn ‘*] kiss your hands, ete. “FR. JUNIPERO SERRA.” — April 16th, This morning I got a horse and rode out to the Mission of San Carlos, on the river Carmel, : TO SAN DIEGO. 77 four miles from Monterey. The ride was a, delightful one over gentle hills, and through valleys with beauti- ful grassy slopes, thickly wooded with pine, fir, and oak trees. The whole country about Monterey presents 4 most pleasing prospect to the eye, after seeing the parched and barren hills along the coast. The Mission establishment, which consists of a church and the usual accompaniments of a large inclosure with ranges of small buildings, stands upon a little elevation between the hills and the sea,from which it is distant only - afew hundred yards. The church which is built of stone, has two towers, containing six bells; its walls are very — thick, with an arched roof, and supported by heavy but- tresses. The towers, as usual, differ. The adobe build- ings near, were all in a state of ruin, and tenantless ; not a human being was to be seen near, while the rank grass and weeds which monopolized the ground, showed that even curiosity did not often tempt visitors to its deserted precincts. One corner of the church began to show the ravages of time: its cornice had fallen, and weeds had already taken root among its opening éfevices. The remains of an orchard and vineyard, are still seen hear, in a decaying state. Small pine trees cover the hills within a short distance of the church; and on its other side, the ocean rolls up its waves with a dull mo- ~ notonous sound, which adds to the solitary feeling of _ the place. Near by, the river Carmel, a diminutive stream, to , which the appellation of brook would be more appro- _ priate, emerges from a valley between two high ranges of grass-covered hills, and falls into the sea. Up this valley I noticed ploughed fields and ranchos; beyond: — RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO it higher mountains arise, completely shutting in the river on the East. This Mission was for some time the residence of the Fathers Juniper Serra, and Francisco Palou, two of the most distinguished of the early Catholic missionaries in California. When Father P. Font arrived in Monterey, in 1777, from Sonora, in Mexico, with a body of mento stréngthen the Colony at that place, he says the “ Fa- ther President, F. Junipero Serra, with four other priests, came from the mission of San Carlos to welcome us, and we chanted mass in thanksgiving for our safe arrival ;” and it “‘was determined that we should go to the mission of Carmel, as there were no lodgings for us here.”*. . He states that there were seven. priests at the mission, that it was ‘‘an excellent spot, and the land very fertile.” April 17th. Set sail from Monterey in the U.S | revenue cutter Frolic, Captain Ottinger. The wind was ahead and light; so that by dark we were scarcely beyond Point Pinos, so named from the pines which grow upon it, and which distinguish it from the barren head-lands on the Californian coast. April 18th. At sea. With a fresh breeze from the north-west, we scudded along finely. It is necessary to keep at a distance from the land, as there are 10 light-houses on the coast. April 19th. Hailed the Pacific mail-steamer North erner as she passed us, and put letters on board for the United States, as we should be too late for the mail at San Diego. Towards evening the winds died away; * Manuscript Relation, in the possession o the author. TO SAN DIEGO. 79 leaving us within a quarter of a mile of Point Concep- tion. This is a-plateau extending a couple of miles beyond the coast range of mountains. Saw two or three ranchos, surrounded by clusters of trees, and large num- bers of cattle grazing upon the declivities of the moun- tains and upon the plain, which, to judge from its bril- liant green hue, was covered with rich grass. In the night, the wind came around from the north-east with a thick fog. April 20th. The northern point of the island of Santa Rosa, bore south six miles. Light winds and calms during the day. At 2p. m. the steamer Active, of the Coast Survey, passed us. At nine, saw a light ahead and pursued it for an hour or more, thinking the vessel it was in might proveasmuggler. Finally came up with and hailed her; when she was found to be a small craft bound to the islands in search of sea-lions, which abound there, and are taken for the oil they furnish. April 21st, Light winds during the day, with fog and haze. Could discover no current. Reached San Pedro at 9 p. m., and came to anchor. The wind blew quite fresh cal the north-west during the night. April 22d. San Pedro is an open bay or roadstead, about fifteen miles across from the two points which bound it, and scarcely deserves the name of a harbor. It is exposed to the prevailing winds, and affords no — protection save onthe east and north. When caught With a southerly gale, vessels are obliged to stand across to the islands of Catalina, twelve miles distant, for safe- ty. It is the Port of Los Angeles, twenty-nine miles | distant, and contains but two houses. — — are quite 80 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO large, being used as warehouses for merchandise, as well as for dwellings. Vessels stop here for water, which has to be carted from a distance of three miles. | Many also provide themselves here with beef, which is furnished at a less rate than at other places. I was desirous to visit Los Angeles for the purpose of buying mules, which were scarce and high ‘at San Diego.. Soon after breakfast I went on shore with Captain Ottinger, and we both took the stage then about to start for Los Angeles. There were twelve passengers to go, who filled two ordinary lumber wag- ons, each drawn by four mules. On leaving the coast, the road was somewhat hilly for a few miles. Passed several lagoons about three miles from Sat Pedro, in which were large numbers of ducks, plover, curlew, and snipe, embracing varieties which I ha not before seen; on leaving these, we entered upon® — broad plain, which extended as far as the eye could reach, unbroken by hillor tree. This plain, the surface of which was slightly undulating, was covered with luxuriant grass and clover; and sometimes a patch of yellow mustard, growing to the height of five or six feet, filled a space of a mile or two. Flowers of bril- liant hues were thickly scattered over the plain, giving it here and there a tingle of purple, orange, or yellow. In every direction, the eye fell upon large herds of cattle and horses luxuriating on the rich grass; 8° numerous were they, that at one time there could not have been less than ten thousand head in sight. It was here that askirmish took place between Comr modore Stockton,or a party sent by him, and the Cali- fornians; but from what I could learn, it was little 2 Fey ise 625 as ilk Or es CR Uh Pee ae Se eae sacl eas ae ee TO SAN DIEGO. «- 81 -more than a running fight, in which no great harm was done by either party. We reached “ La Ciudad de los Aiton ” the City of Angels, at 4 o'clock, and put up at the “Bella Union,” a very indifferent hotel. At the most misera- ble tavern in the back woods, I have found better accommodations than at this place. After dinner, I called at the office of the ‘ Los An- geles Star,” to obtain a file of the paper, which contains a series of articles on the Californian Indians. Mr. Rand, one of the editors, cheerfully complied with my request, and gave me the papers I desired. I also met Mr. Hayes here, a gentleman connected with the bar, who, with Mr. Rand, manifested much interest in the objects of my inquiry; and Mr. Hayes kindly offered to accompany me to the mission of San Gabriel, twelve miles distant, where resided Mr. Hugo Reid, the author of these papers. These gentlemen informed me that Mr. Reid was better acquainted with the Indians of that portion of the State than any other person. With the hope therefore of obtaining more information on this subject, I gladly accepted the proposal of Mr. Hayes; and we agreed to set off for the Mission as soon as horses.could be procured. After waiting two hours, the horses promised Mr. Rand were still not forthcoming; we were therefore compelled to give up our ride this afternoon, and post- pone it until morning. I regretted this, as I _ in- _ tended to pass the evening at the Mission, and 3 return _ Pedro. The horses were promised to bes saddle at the door by 5 o’clock in the morning. © VoL. 1—6 82 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO Spent the hour that remained before dark in walk- ing over the hills with Mr. Hayes. Los Angeles is situ- ated in one of the finest agricultural districts in the State. It has at various times contained from fifteen hundred to two thousand inhabitants, and was formerly a place of much wealth. There are many large haci- endas and ranchos in the valley, which is in a high state of cultivation, abounding in orchards and vineyards. Judging of the wine I saw, and the imperfect mode fol- lowed in producing it, there is no doubt that an article of superior quality might be made here in abundance. ' I saw more Indians about this place than in any part of California I had yet visited. They were chiefly ‘‘ Mission Indians,” i. e. those who had been connected with the missions, and derived their support from them until the suppression of those establishments. They are a miserable squalid-looking set, squatting or lying about the corners of the streets, without occupation. They have now no means of obtaining a living, as their lands are all faken from them; and the missions for whichsthey labored, and lich, provided after a sort for many thousands of them, are abolished. No care seems to be taken of them by the Americans; on the | contrary, the effort seems to be, to exterminate them as soon as possible. One of the most intelligent of them, who was brought to me by the kindness of my friends here, was unacquainted with the name of the tribe to which he belonged, and only knew that it had been attached to certain missions. I obtained from him a vocabulary, which I found on examination, to be the Diegeno language, with some words different from that obtained at San Diego. TO SAN DIEGO. 83 April 3d. Up at daylight, to reach the Mission of San Gabriel by breakfast-time; but the horses were not ready, as promised. After waiting three hours, we concluded to breakfast here. The horses at last were brought, the only excuse for the delay being that they could not be caught before. It now began to rain; but hoping that it would not continue, we set off, Mr. Rand accompanying me. But after we had got about three miles, the prospect for fair weather grew less encouraging ; and as we were already pretty wet, we thought it best to give up the jaunt and return, much to my regret. Being thus disappointed in seeing the Mission, I was kindly furnished by the editors of the “Los Angeles Star” with the following brief account of it, smisials had appeared in their paper a few days before: ‘Situated in the midst of a fertile valley, surround- ed with abundant timber, and supplied by a thousand springs, with an inexhaustible flow of water, the Mission of San Gabriel flourished and became exceed- ingly rich. Authentic records are said to exist which show that at one time the mission branded fifty thousand calves, manufactured three thousand barrels of wine, and harvested one hundred thousand fanegas (two hun- dred and sixty-two thousand bushels) of grain a year. The timber for a brigantine was cut, sawed, and fitted at the mission, and then transported toand launched at San Pedro. Five thousand Indians were at one time col- lected and attached to the mission. They are repre- sented to have been sober and industrious, well clothed and fed; and seem to have experienced as high a state of happiness as they are adapted by nature to receive. * 84 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO “These five thousand Indians constituted a large family, of which the Padres were the social, religious, and we might almost say political, heads. ‘‘ Living thus, this vile and degraded race began to learn some of the fundamental principles of civilized life. The institution of marriage began to be re- spected, and, blessed by the rites of religion, grew to be so much considered that deviations.from its duties were somewhat unfrequent occurrences, The girls, on their arrival at the age of puberty, were separated from the rest of the population, and taught the useful arts of sewing, weaving, carding, etc., and were only permitted to mingle with the population when they had assumed the characters of wives. “ When at present we look around and behold the state of the Indians of this country—when we see their women degraded into a scale of life too menial to be even domestics—when we behold their men brutalized by drink, incapable of work, and following a system of petty thievery for a living, humanity can- not refrain from wishing that the dilapidated Mission of San Gabriel should be renovated, its broken walls be rebuilt, its roofless houses be covered, and its desert- ed halls be again filled with its ancient industrious, happy, and contented original population.” I noticed here quantities of craw-fish, weighing from two to ten pounds, which are taken in this bay. We ate of them, and bought a quantity to take to our friends in San Diego. Their flavor resembles that of the lobster, but is so much inferior that they would hardly be tolerated on the tables of the Atlantic coast. We went on board our vessel before dark, and im- * Fa ee ee ee ee Ce en ee ee a a ES eee agen i ye) TO SAN DIEGO. 85 mediately got under way, with a strong wind from the north-west. Our little craft scudded before it with great speed, the log showing thirteen and a half miles an hour. This continued during the night, carrying us rapidly towards our place of destination. April 24th. Passed Point Loma at eight o’clock, and before nine anchored at San Diego. The first news I heard was the removal of Mr. Gray as survey- or, and the appointm®nt of Major Emory in his place. This compelled me to discharge all Mr. Gray’s party, and commit the completion of the survey of the Gila to Lieutenant Whipple,—an arrangement which re- duced the party about to retrace its steps to the _ Grande about two fifths. We now set vigorously to work to prepare for our return. Our animals, which were so completely used up in the journey out, had now recovered their strength, with the exception of five or six, which were past recovery. I had been unable to purchase any mules at Los Angeles or elsewhere to the north, and was compelled to depend wholly upon San Diego and its vicinity to make up our deficiencies. Our camp equipage had been procured in San Francisco; but the harness and pack-saddles needed mending and putting in order. The wagons also required the labor of the blacksmith and carpenter on them. A few days after my return, I was waited upon by Mr. Antoine Leroux, of New Mexico, the celebrated guide who had conducted Colonel Cooke and his brigade to California in 1846, ’47, and who had a short time before arrived with the exploring party under Captain Sitgreaves, which he had conducted by the 86 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO Zui River to the Colorado, and thence by Fort Yuma to California. Mr. Leroux now wished to re- turn to New Mexico, and offered me the services of himself and two men, together with several pack and riding mules, for a moderate compensation. As my party was now quite reduced, and as it was necessary to hire more men, I gladly accepted the proposals of Mr. L., and placed the animals and arrieros directly under his charge, with orders %o prepare the train as soon as possible for the march. While these preparations were being made, Lieute- nant Whipple and his assistants were busily occupied in reducing his astronomical observations, and in plot- ting the maps of the survey of the Gila as far as it had been carried. Duplicates were also made of all the notes connected with the survey, which were trans — mitted by an officer to Washington for safe keeping. For Lieutenant Whipple’s Report of the survey of the Gila, see Appendix D. Before Captain Ottinger left, he invited me, with others of the Commission, to accompany him on in excursion to the Coronado Islands, a small group lying twenty miles from San Diego. Some ten or twelve gentlemen availed themselves of the Captain’s polite- ness; and, on the morning of the 5th of May, the “Frolic” stood out to sea with a north-west wind, which brought us to the islands in three hours. Wé came to anchor about a quarter of a mile east of the larger and more southerly island of the group. One party immediately went with Captain Ott ger to examine the anchorage about the islands, while the other landed. This island rises so abruptly from Pe OED ee ee EON, Re Oe Te Ce ae ae Re TO SAN DIEGO. 87 the sea, that it was with some difficulty that we could find a landing placé Seeing a little nook, which the dashing waters had worn away from the rocky mass, we made for this, and succeeded in getting on shore. From this place it required much labor to clamber _up the rocks for some fifty feet; after which the ascent became easy, and we met with no difficulty in reaching the crest of the island, half a mile distant. The island is a solid wedge-shaped rock, about five hundred feet high, save at the point where we landed, where it is slightly shelving. It runs north-east and south-west, and is about a mile in length, by half that in breadth at its widest part. Towards the northern end its breadth is less than a quarter of a mile. There is some soil on its surface; yet it is entirely destitute of trees. A few small shrubs are seen; and wherever - there is soil, it is covered with grass and a great abun- dance of wild flowers, which in certain spots are so humerous, that they appear like patches of orange, purple, and yellow, when seen from the water. I walked across and along the whole length of the island, but could descend in no place except where we landed. Cacti and other plants grew among the rocks, of which Mr. Thurber obtained specimens. . About a mile to the north-west is another island of nearly the same dimensions as that we were upon, and between them two smaller ones, or rather two masses of rocks, some fifty feet high, without any vegetation. It was among these that Capel Ottinger wished’ to examine the depth of water; and he was gratified to find excellent anchorage there: Vessels may, therefore, anchor on both sides of these islands, and be well pro- 88 ‘RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO tected against south-east and south-west gales. The protection from the north-west wittds would not be so good. One of these small islands was found to be covered with sea-lions, huge animals as large as an Ox. The creatures were asleep when the party landed, and suffered themselves to be approached by the seamen, who for mere sport killed several, by knocking them on the head with stones. Some were believed to weigh as much as one thousand two hundred pounds. Some fine. fish were taken by the boats; and all were again on board-before dark. After starting on our return, the wind died away and left us becalmed, so that we did not reach San Diego until the follow- ing morning. The Coronados were discovered and named by Sebastian Viscaino, in the year 1602, when he entered the port of San Diego.* ° The harbor of San Diego abounds in excellent fish; but, owing to the deficiency of timber, there is but little game. Rabbits are plentiful, and occasionally a deer is brought in. On the hills near, and for many miles around, grow wild oats in great profusion, fur- nishing an excellent fodder for horses and cattle. The other productions are wheat, barley, maize, beans, and vegetables of various kinds. The climate is mild and healthy. During the months of March, April, and May, fogs are frequent in the morning; and up to the time when we left, there was scarcely a morning OF evening when a little fire was not necessary. The atmosphere is at all times more moist, with much less heat, than at San Francisco and the adjacent country: . * Torquemada, Monarquia Indiana, lib. v. Voyage of Viscaino- TO SAN DIEGO. 89 While the preparations were being made for our journey, I made a brief visit to the Mission of San Luis Rey, forty miles north of San Diego. This is the latest of all the California missions, and was founded in 1798. It stands in a rich valley, from one to two miles wide, and is about three miles from the ocean, being separated therefrom by a range of hills. Of all the missionary establishments in the State, this possesses the most extensive as well as the most imposing struc- ture. Itis built of adobe, although stone and brick are used in some portions of it. It faces the south, and has a front of five hundred and thirty feet, the greater por- tion of which exhibits a colonnade of some architectural beauty, although but sixteen or eighteen feet high.* On the front is also a church ninety feet in depth, with a _ tower and dome. Northand south, the dimensions are upwards of six hundred feet. This vast space included every thing that appertained to the mission. On the south-eastern corner is a small Campo Santo. Next comes the church with the priests’ apartments immedi- ately adjoining, and a small inclosure, or garden, shut in by the church walls on one side and by the main build- ing on the other. This garden was handsomely laid out, and still contains a variety of fruit and ornamental trees. The main building is about three hundred feet square, with a colonnade in front. In the interior, is an open area of the same dimensions, with a beautiful colonnade all around. In the centre of this was a gar- en; but the only plant of interest that remains, is a — * The general plan of this building and its admeasurements have been mislaid, so that I am unable to give the exact dimensions. 90 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO pepper tree. This stands in a circular bed elevated four or five feet above the area, and is protected by a wall. , se woe ee Mission of San Luis Rey, California, On the four sides of this extensive area are double rows of apartments, some of which are very large, it cluding reception rooms, dining halls, sleeping apart _ments, kitchen, &. In the rear were corrals or inclo- sures for cattle; so that every thing appertaining t0 this vast establishment might be brought within its walls. It is all in a good state of preservation except the north-west corner of the area, where the roof has fallen in. Some of the cattle yards and stables are also out of repair. But the church, and nearly all the apatt ments occupied for dwellings, are still habitable. TO SAN DIEGO. 91 This establishment had been abandoned with most of the other Californian missions; but when the United States became the possessors of the country, several claimants sprang up for it, and its valuable lands adja- cent, some resting on purchase, pretended or real, and some on other grounds. It is said to have been pur- chased by some native Californians from the govern- ment about the time the country was changing owners, who sold it to the Americans. Its ownership will be settled by the Board of Land Commissioners appointed by the United States government for the purpose. In the mean time General Hitchcock, commanding the Pacific Division of the U. S. Army, has placed a file of soldiers here, to protect the property and keep off plun- derers and squatters. I remained here two nights, accompanied by Dr. Webb and Mr. Pratt, artist of the Commission, and was hospitably entertained by the Sergeant in charge ; the officer in command being absent in San Diego. In such a place as this, with such a range of buildings and cultivated grounds, a prince or a nabob might luxuriate to his heart’s content. Near by is an extensive orchard and garden, inclosed with high walls, and filled with every variety of fruit-trees; but the acequias, or irrigat- ing canals, had been neglected, the dams and embank- ments washed away, and the beautiful gardens and Shady walks, where the devotees passed the long hours when not attending to their religious duties, were all overflowed. A swamp filled with rushes and rank weeds had taken possession of these walks and groves ; and here the screaming heron and other water - fowl had their hiding-places. 92 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO The Sergeant, at my request, sent for an old Indian of the neighborhood, who called himself a chief. On learning that an officer of the U. S. government wished to see him, he made his appearance with three others of his tribe. The old man presented himself in the dress of a Mexican officer—a blue coat with red facings trimmed with gold lace, and a high military cap and feather. He was quite communicative, and answered my questions readily. In giving me the words of his language, he enunciated them with great distinctness, and would not be satisfied with my pronunciation until all could at once recognise the word. When I had completed my vocabulary, and read off the native words, he evinced great pleasure as he repeated the corresponding word in Spanish, occasionally exclaim- ing Bueno, or Muy Bueno! He called his tribe the Kechi. On inquiring as to the state of things when the padres were here, the old man heaved a deep sigh. He said his tribe was large, and his people ‘all happy, when the good fathers were here to protect them. That they cultivated the soil ; assisted in rearing large herds of cattle; were taught te be blacksmiths and carpen- ters, as well as ethics trades; that they had plenty to eat, and were happy. He remembered when three thousand of his tribe were settled in the valley, depend- ent upon or connected with this mission. Now he said they were scattered about, he knew not where, with- out a home or protectors, and were in a miserable starv- ing condition. A few hundred alone remained in some ‘villages up the valley, a few miles from the mission. He spoke with much affection of Father Peyri, it TO SAN DIEGO. 93 original founder, who had resided here for thirty-four years. At no time, he said, were there more than six- teen Spanish soldiers here, who occupied a building facing the mission, which is still standing. _ Father Antonio Peyri took possession of this Mis- sion of San Luis Rey (i. e. St. Louis the king) in the year 1798. He first built a small thatched cottage, and asked for a few cattle and Indians from the mission. At the end of his thirty-four years residence, he left it stocked with nearly sixty thousand head of domesti- cated animals of all sorts, and yielding an annual pro- . duce of about thirteen thousand bushels of grain. Af- ter so many years of successful labor, in which he ex- pended the most valuable part of his life, the worthy Father left his mission with only what he judged suff- cient means to enable him to join his convent in the city of Mexico, where he threw himself upon the charity of his order. The toil of managing such an establish- ment, would be sufficient motive for a man of Father Peyri’ sage to retire ; but the new order of things, which had introduced new men and new measures, accele- rated his resignation. Whatever his motives may have been, his voluntary retirement in poverty, to spend the remainder of his days in pious exercises, must be applauded by the religious ; and his noble disor edness by all. Mr. Alexander Forbes, who met the venerable Peyri, and who has given us this account of his history, thus closes his eke on this mission, and the affection entertained by the Indians for their pastor: ‘The best and most unequivocal proof of the good conduct of these Fathers, is to be found in the unbounded affec- 94 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO tion and devotion invariably shown towards them by their Indian subjects. They venerate them not merely as friends and fathers, but with a degree of devotedness approaching to adoration. On the occasion of the removals that have taken place of late years, from po- litical causes, the distress of the Indians in parting with their pastors has been extreme. They have entreated to be allowed to follow them in.their exile, with tears and lamentations, and with all the demon- strations of true sorrow and unbounded affection. In- deed, if there ever existed an instance of the perfect — justice and propriety of the comparison of the priest. and his disciples to a shepherd and his flock, it is in the case of which we are treating. These poor people may indeed be classed with the ‘silly sheep’ rather than with any other animal ; and I believe they would, in the words of the poet, even ‘lick the hand though it was raised to shed their blood ’—if this were the hand of the friar.” * The harbor of San Diego is second only to that of San Francisco on the Californian coast. On the north and north-west, it is formed by Point Loma, a neck of land which stretches far into the ocean terminated by a bold bluff, one of the most prominent and well-mark- ed headlands on the coast. From this the shore takes an easterly direction for about four miles, when it turns and runs from twelve to fifteen miles towards the south. The southern and western shores of the bay, are low and sandy. The south-western shore is no more than a sand beach, connected by a narrow neck with the * Forbes’s California—London, 1836, p. 230. TO SAN DIEGO. 95 main land, and for the greater portion of its length is little more than a natural breakwater. The northern part of this neck is more elevated and about a mile ~~ = § San Diego, California. across, Point Loma and the northern shore of the bay, is a promontory about two hundred feet high, and nearly two miles wide, tapering off gradually with ® succession of hills as it approaches the town. These hills Were covered with chapporal; their declivities, both on the side of the ocean and of the harbor, being cut into deep ravines. At the base on the inner side, 1S good grazing. 7 The entrance to this harbor is not more than three or four hundred yards wide. There is a deep channel lead- Mg into the inner harbor, which requires some skill in 96 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO navigating; but when once the entrance is passed, there is an abundance of water. I saw large ships some six miles within this harbor, and was informed that the Pacific mail steamers, and one of our frigates, had also been there. An accurate survey has lately been made by the United States “Coast Survey” and elaborate maps published with the soundings and all the bearings laid down, to enable navigators to enter it. About half a mile from Point Loma, is the Playa, or beach, where the mail steamers, and other vessels, stop for coal and supplies. It is convenient of access with any wind, and affords a safe anchorage. Here is a small village, and the ‘hide houses” which have be- come somewhat celebrated from the graphic account of life in California, and the process of curing hides, given by Mr. Dana, in his “‘Two Years before the Mast.” They still stand precisely as he describes them, and are now only used as barns or store-houses. A fine road along the beach leads to the old town of San Diego, standing on a flat at the base of a high hill which extends about two miles to the south: this flat reaches more than a mile into the bay, preventing the nearer approach of vessels or boats. It also extends northwardly to a shallow opening on the north side of the promontory before described, called ‘‘ False Bay.” At San Diego, a small stream runs into the bay; but during the summer, it becomes dry. At its floods, it brings down great quantities of sand, which are de- posited in the channel; whence fears of serious injury to the harbor have been entertained. To obviate this, it has been proposed to change the course of the river to False Bay, into which it formerly run. It would 00 TO SAN DIEGO. 97 doubt be beneficial, and the plan is worthy the atten- tion of the governnient. Three miles south of San Diego is another town near the shore of the bay, which was surveyed and plotted by Mr. Gray, U. S. Surveyor to the Boundary Commission, while on duty here. Thisis called ‘‘ New San Diego.” It consists of a few substantial frame houses, and is the depot for the United States Subsist- ence and the Quarter-master’s Departments. A large and fine wharf was built here at a great expense ; but there is no business to bring vessels here, except an occasional one with government stores. There is no water nearer than the San Diego river, three miles dis- tant. Efforts indeed are making to find it with an Ar- tesian well; but with what success, remains to be seen. There is no timber near, and wood has to be brought Some eight or ten miles: nor is there any arable land within four miles. Without wood, water, or arable land, this place can never rise to importance. At the head of the bay are some good lands with pastures for grazing. The bottom lands along the stream back of the old town of San Diego, possess great fertility, and: With proper attention might be made very productive. The admirable harbor of San Diego and its position on the coast, will always make it an important stopping place for shipping ; but whether the Playa or beach near the entrance, the old town of San Diego, or “Gray Town” as New San Diego is called pyle pall of the old town, will have the ascendancy, remains to be seen: —each has its advantages and disadvantages. It appears from the early Spanish writers, that the ‘Omontory north-west of the harbor was once well VOL. 1.—7 98 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO wooded; a fact not generally known. The earliest published account of this harbor, must possess an inter- est for all who watch the progress of California. The reader, too, will perceive, as in the case of San Fran- cisco and Monterey, that the early discoverers saw the great advantages of the places; although it was left for the Americans one hundred and fifty years later to avail themselves of them. The United States were in pos- session of California before the discovery of its gold placers ; and although they have been the means of its rapid advancement to the extraordinary rank it has now attained, yet it is certain that, even without the gold, it would sooner or later have become what it now is, from its agricultural resources and great commercial advantages. Sebastian Viscaino having been employed as early as the year 1594 in the “ pacification and conquest of California,” was selected as the head of an expedition fitted out for further explorations and colonization in 1602. After touching at various places in Lower Cali- fornia, it reached the Coronados Islands. ‘To the north of these islands,” says the narrative, ‘ on the main land, is the famous harbor called San Diego, which the squadron entered at seven in the evening, on the 10th of December; and the day following, the general ordered several persons to survey a forest lying on the rth-west side of the bay. This expedi- tion was pngtileken by Ensign Alarcon, Captain Pe- guero, Father Antonio de la Ascension, and eight soldiers. In this forest they found tall and straight oaks and other trees, some shrubs resembling rosemary, and a great variety of fragrant and wholesome plathts vol. ii. CROSSING THE PECOS.—p, 98, = es bef ake oy Sc - ae * . ‘ oe . * : . | i | ‘ : | . TO SAN DIEGO. 99 The high grounds commanded a view of the whole harbor, which appeared spacious, convenient, and well sheltered. The forest borders on the harbor, towards the north-west, and is about three leagues in length, and half a league in breadth. And to the north-west of the wood is another harbor. On their return with their report to the general, he ordered a tent to be pitched for religious worship, and that the ships should be cleaned and tallowed, the people in the mean time being employed in wooding and keeping guard. They had their water from a little island of sand, where they dug deep trenches, in which, during the flood, the water was fresh and good, but on the ebb salt. One day a sentinel placed in the wood gave notice that he saw a great number of Indians coming along the shore, naked, and their skins daubed with black and white colors, and armed with bows and arrows. On this the general desired Father Antonio to go and offer them peace. He was attended by Ensign Juan Francisco and six soldiers. On coming up to the Indians, hav- ing made signs of peace with a bit of white linen, and throwing the earth up with their hands, the savages immediately delivered their bows and arrows to the soldiers, Father Antonio embraced them; gave them bread and necklaces, with which they were greatly pleased. But on coming to the general’s quarters, the Indians, at the sight of such a number of men, drew back to a little eminence, from whence they sent two women. These approaching the general's tent with a mid air, the religious and others made them presents of beads, biscuits, and strings of bugles; and then dismissed them, to give their countrymen an account 100 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO of the usage they had met with from the strangers. Their report was doubtless very favorable; for soon after they all came with them to see the Spaniards. Most of them were painted or besmeared with black and white, and their heads loaded with feathers. The general and others received them with great courtesy, distributing among them several things, and a great many fish which had been caught with the net in their presence. The kind of paint they used looked like a mixture of silver and blue color; and on asking them by signs what it was, they gave them a piece of metal- lic ore, from whence they made it; and signified by signs that a certain people up the country, who had beards and were clothed like the Spaniards, made from this material very fine ribbons, resembling the laces on the soldiers’ buff coats; and some like that on a pur- ple velvet doublet, in which the general was then dressed; adding, that these men, by their dress, com- plexion, and customs, seemed to be of the same coun- try with themselves. The Indians were quite trams . ported with the good treatment shown them, and every third day came for biscuit and fish, bringing with them skins of several kinds of beasts, as sables, wild cats, and the nets with which they catch them.”* Another interesting account of San Diego is CoD tained in a letter written by Father Junipero Serra 10 Father Palou, in the year 1769, when the former landed here for the purpose of establishing the ™* sion :+ “My dear Friend and Sir:—Thank God, I arrived * Torquemada Monarchia Indiana, lib. v. t Palou. Vida de Fray Junipero Serra, p. 76. TO SAN DIEGO. 101 the day before yesterday, the first of the month, at this port of San Diego, truly a fine one, and with rea- son famous. Here I found those who had set out before me, by sea as well as by land, excepting such as died on the way. The brethren, Fathers Crespi, Biscayno, Parron, and Gomez are here, and, with my- self, all well, thanks be to God. Here are also two vessels; but the San Carlos is without seamen, all having died except one and the cook. The San An- tonio, although she sailed a month and a half later, arrived twenty days before the San Carlos, losing on the voyage eight seamen. In consequence of this loss, the San Antonio will return to San Blas, to procure seamen for herself and the San Carlos. The causes of the delay of the San Carlos were, first, the want of water, and, second, the error which all were in respect- ing the situation of this port. They supposed it to be in thirty-three or thirty-four degrees north latitude; and strict orders were given to Captain Vila and the rest to keep out in the open sea till they should arrive in thirty-four degrees, and then make the shore in search of the port. As, however, the port in reality lies in 32° 34’, according to the observations which have now been made, they went far beyond the port, thus making the voyage much longer than was neces- sary. The people got daily worse from the cold and the bad water; and they must all have perished, if they had not discovered the port about the time they did ; for they were quite unable to launch the boat to pro- cure more water, or to do any thing whatever for their Preservation. The Father Fernando did every thing in his power to relieve the sick; and although he 102 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO arrived much reduced in flesh, he had not the disorder, and is now well. We have not suffered hunger or privations, neither have the Indians who came with us; all have arrived fat and healthy. The track through which we have passed is generally very good land, with plenty of water; and there, as well as here, the country is neither rocky nor overcome with brush- wood. There are, however, many hills, but they are composed of earth. The road has been in many places good, but the greater part bad. About half way, the valleys and banks of rivulets began to be delightful. We found vines of a large size, and in some cases quite loaded with grapes; we also found abundance of roses, which appeared to be the same as those of Castile. In fine, it is a good country, and very different from that of Old California. We have seen Indians in immense numbers; and all those on this coast of the Pacific con- trive to make a good subsistence on various seeds, and by fishing; this they carry on by means of rafts, oF canoes made of tule (bulrush), with which they go 4 great way to sea. They are very civil. All the males, old and young, go naked; the women, however, and even the female children, were decently covered from their breasts downwards. We found in our journey, as well as in the places where we stopped, that they treated us with as much confidence and good will as if they had known us all their lives; but when we offered them any of our victuals, they always refused them. All they cared for was cloth; and only for something of this sort would they exchange their fish or whatever else they had. “From this port and intended mission of Sat TO SAN DIEGO. 103 Diego, in Northern California, 3d July, 1769. I kiss the hands of your Reverence, and am your affectionate brother and servant, : “RR. JUNIPERO SERRA.” Six miles from the town of San Diego, following up the valley, is the venerable Mission of the same name, a spot possessing great picturesque beauty, and Mission of San Diego. surrounded by fertile and well watered lands. It was the last of the California missions that was abandoned ; and but five years ago its ancient library and its 104 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO priest still remained. The buildings, which are of adobe, are not extensive, but are in goud preservation. They possess more of an Oriental appearance than any similar establishments. There was formerly a large vineyard and orchard, containing figs, peaches, etc., a portion of which is still in existence. The place is celebrated also for a flourishing orchard of olive trees, which still remains, yielding a great abun- dance of olives, the excellence of which we had an opportunity of testing on our homeward journey. The mission is at present occupied by United States troops, under the command of Colonel J. B. Magruder, and in consequence is kept in good repair. San Diego, like Monterey, is noted for its excellent society. There remain many of the old Castilian families here, who have preserved their blood from all admixture with the Indians. In this circle, all Ame- ricans and foreigners visiting the place have expe rienced much pleasure; for such is its refined and social character, that one almost imagines himself again enjoying the delights of home. The Californian ladies are said to possess all the finer qualities of the sex, whether of the head or the heart, and to make most excellent wives. Such have been the attractions of these fair sefioritas for the young American officers, that many have been induced to relinquish their com- missions in the United States army, and become planters or stock raisers in California. While detained here, I took occasion to visit the monument erected at the Initial Point, on the Pacific, of the boundary between the United States and Mexi co, one marine league south of the southernmost point TO SAN DIEGO. 105 of the Bay of San Diego.” It is an obelisk of white marble, resting on a pedestal, and is about twenty feet in height. It stands near the margin of the table land, about two hundred yards from the sea shore, and bears the name of the Commissioner, Surveyor, and Astronomer of the two governments, together with the latitude and longitude, viz. : Latitude north, 32° 31’ 59” 58’: Longitude, 7" 48’ 21” 01 west from Greenwich. es ‘ ee Monumeni at Initial Point, Pacific. This monument stands directly opposite the Coro- nado Islands, and is seen from a great distance on land as well as by vessels at sea. On the table-land around and south of it, grow large numbers of the beautiful agave. renee 106 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO My journeys through California were not sufficiently extensive to enable me to discuss at length its agricul- tural resources, nor would an essay of such a character properly belong to a “ personal narrative.” But I saw sufficient in the valleys of San José, Napa, Carmel, near Monterey, Los Angeles, San Luis Rey, and San Diego, to enable me most confidently to assert that a finer agricultural country does not exist on the face of the globe. Cereals of every description, wheat, maize, barley, peas, rye, and oats grow to perfection, some in one portion, others in other portions of the State, every where yielding more than in any part of the Atlantic States or the Mississippi Valley. Fruits of every kind, including the grape, apples, pears, peaches, plums,: cherries, etc., arrive at perfection. But i vegetables especially, whether we regard their variety, their enormous yield, or their excellent flavor, Califor- nia certainly surpasses any thing I have ever seen 1 the United States. But the valleys I have mentioned are small in comparison with the broad and magnificent basins of the Sacramento and San Joachin Rivers and their numerous tributaries. The head waters of the San Joachin and the Tulare plains, which are yet unexplored and unsettled, are said to be admirably adapted to the cultivation of rice and cotton. The southern part of the State is more barren, having fewer streams and valleys, with little or no timber. But here occur those large grassy plains or prairies, such as that between the coast and Los Angeles, % well adapted to the raising of cattle. East of the mountains which form the continuation of the Siet™ Nevada is a broad sandy desert, extending from the TO SAN DIEGO. ‘107 head of the Gulf of California to the unexplored region and great Central Basin, with which we have been made acquainted by Colonel*Frémont. This desert is from one to two hundred miles in width, and alike destitute of water and vegetation, excepting a few thorny shrubs and cacti. Before leaving California, I take this occasion to acknowledge the favors rendered to the Boundary Commission by the officers of the United States army in California. To General Hitchcock, for the facilities afforded me in my journey to the Geysers, and for an escort of twenty-five men to the Pimo villages. To Lieutenant Eddy, Commissary of Subsistence at San Diego, for provisions furnished us during our stay in the country, and for our homeward journey, as well as for various acts of kindness and attention shown to the members of the Commission. Also to Colonel J. Bank- head Magruder, commanding at San Diego. To this gentleman in particular, both personally and in behalf of the government, I feel under the deepest obligation. At a time when we were left without a carpenter or _ blacksmith, and when none could be procured, this _ Officer permitted me to send to his mechanics my | wagons for repairs, and my animals to be shod, without _ Which aid I could not have left San Diego. In other _ Ways he was of great service to me and the Commis- _ Sion, both during our stay in the country, and while _ preparing for the journey before us. FIFTH DIVISION. SAN DIEGO TO EL PASO, ALONG THE GILA. CHAPTER XXVI. SAN DIEGO TO ALAMO MUCHO. Preparations for the journey to El Paso—Leave San Diego—Accident to wagon—Snook’s rancho—San Pasqual—Gen. Kearney’s battle at this place—Indian village—San Pasqual Mountain—Difticult ascent—Reach camp at Santa Isabel—Deficiency of transportation—Leroux dispatched for another wagon—lIndians of Santa Isabel—A Mormon arrives with a wagon—List of return party ourney resumed—Luxuriant valley— Intense heat—Mules run away—Skeletons and carcasses of animals— Immense destruction of sheep—Utter desolation—Wagon upset—Sack- et’s Well—Dig for water—Meet Lieut. Sweeney in pursuit of deserters from Fort Yuma—Arrival of bearer of dispatches—Alamo Mucho. Azout the middle of May the members of the Com- mission left their quarters at San Diego, and encamped Some six miles distant near the Mission; where there was good grazing, and where the anieail had been chiefly kept since our arrival. They were now busily engaged in completing the preparations necessary before setting out on so long and difficult a journey as 110 SAN DIEGO TO that before us. It was quite doubtful whether we should have sufficient means of transportation ; and to make sure of this, all the provisions, tents, instruments, personal baggage, etc., were sent out to the camp. Here they were separated and weighed, or an estimate made, so as to enable us to judge whether our two wagons and twenty pack-mules would be sufficient. Uncertain how long we should be in reaching El Paso, we took seventy days’ rations; in addition to which were 4 quantity of medical stores and anti-scorbutics, including fruits, vegetables, pickles, etc., as these important arti- cles were not to be procured on the way. I was ill at this time with fever and ague, and thought it most prudent to remain in quarters until the parties had got ready to move, and in fact had passed to a considerable distance into the interior, beyond the reach of the fogs and humid atmosphere of the coast. On the 26th, they commenced their march, intending to stop at Santa Isabel, fifty-six miles distant, where I was to join them. Several days before this, I sent off twelve head of beef-cattle belonging to the Commission, with an escort of six soldiers, with orders to remain at Fort Yuma until my arrival. This plan was recommended to me, as the cattle could not keep up with us after reaching the great desert ; and when they entered upon that much dreaded region, it was thought best that they should not stop, but keep on day and night until water was reached. A number of cattle were sent at the same time to supply the garrison at Fort Yuma. ) , For my journey, I had provided myself with a small wagon to be drawn by two mules, and a fine Americal ALAMO MUCHO. 111 horse, which had been ridden across the country by Mr. Gray. All the other members of the Commission, as also the laborers, servants,’ cooks, and arrieros, were provided with mules, which experience had shown to be best for long journeys. They endure fatigue better than horses, will thrive where horses will starve, and in case of accident or emergency, may be used to carry burdens or be harnessed to a team. It was with con- siderable difficulty that I could procure good mules here; and for those that I obtained, I paid from seven- ty-five to one hundred dollars each. Nearly every thing we had, including the tents, was new, our former equipments having been to a great extent abandoned on the journey out, as the animals failed, or as they had become past restoring, from eighteen months’ use, and constant exposure to a dry heat, rain, or snow. On the 26th of May, I left San Diego, in company with Dr. Webb, in my small wagon, drawn by two mules. These excellent animals, I must observe, were the same that I started with from the coast of Texas in September, 1850. They had served me in my rapid journey.to El Paso, and three times back and forth from that place to the Copper Mines. They had drawn my carriage in my first journey to Sonora, and subse- quently, with four others, broughta loaded wagon from the Copper Mines to San Diego. Notwithstanding these journeys and their constant use since we had been in California, they were in as fine condition as. pene: they left the shores of the Atlantic. = A My wagon was pretty heavily laden; iat ere we : had got a mile beyond San Diego, in turning aside for _ 4 train, it ran into a gully with such force as to spring 112 SAN DIEGO TO the wooden axle-tree and bend the iron one. The injury did not appear to be serious; and as the road, though hilly, was very good, we hastened on. But this little accident, trifling as it seemed at first, proved a constant source of annoyance to us throughout the journey. Ten miles from San Diego, is Soledad hill, which is very steep and difficult to pass. One of our loaded wagons had upset here a few days before. The whole country hereabouts is hilly, and destitute of trees, except in the small valleys, where the accumulation of water after rains has sustained a few mezquit trees The hills on both sides, and as far as the eye can reach, are covered with a thick growth of wild oats. Several families have lately settled here, who make a profitable business of cutting these oats and carrying them 10 market at San Diego, where they are in good demand. In the afternoon, we reached San Pasqual River, a small and limpid stream, running through a rich valley » covered with fine grass, and in which hundreds of cat tle were grazing. About a mile in advance, we saw 4 large rancho, to which we directed our course, having been invited to pass the night there. This was the hacienda of Mrs. Snooks, a California lady, the widow of an Englishman, who now resides at San Dieg® Word having been sent to the family occupying the rancho that I would stop here, we met with a hospitable reception, and were provided with an excellent supp and beds. This was formerly one of the largest stock- raising establishments in the country; but the high price of cattle at San Francisco has induced the owe! to drive them thither forsale. There were, however, Sti Te SS Sees SS eT ALAMO MUCHO. 113 many hundreds remaining. The distance to San Diego is called thirty-six miles. San Pasqual was the scene of an action between the United States troops and those of Mexico during the late war. Our army was at one time in a perilous situation, from which it was relieved by assistance sent by Commodore Stockton, then at San Diego.- I add in a note Colonel Kearney’s brief report of this affair.* May 29th. At seven o'clock, we took leave of our hospitable friends; and continuing across the plain and Heap Quarters, ARMy or THE WEsT, San Diego, California, Dee. 13, 1846. * «Sir: In my communication to you of yesterday’s date, I brought the report of the movements of my guard up to the evening of the 5th instant, in camp near a rancho of Mrs. Snooks, about forty miles from San Diego.” igs % * * * * After giving the details of his position, and of his officers, the Gen- eral thus proceeds : “As the day (December 6) dawned, we approached the enemy at San Pasqual, who was already in the saddle, when Captain Johnston made a furious charge upon them with his advanced guard, and was in a short time after supported by the dragoons, soon after which the enemy gave way, having kept up from the beginning a continual fire upon us. Upon the retreat of the enemy, Captain Moore led off ra- Pidly in pursuit, accompanied by the dragoons mounted on horses, and was followed, though slowly, by the others on their tired mules. ,The enemy, well mounted, and among the best horsemen in the world, after retreating about half a mile, and seeing an interval between Captain Moore with his advance and the dragoons coming to his support, ral- lied their whole force, charged with their lances, and, on account of their greatly Superior numbers, but few of us in front remained un- touched. For five minutes they held the ground from us, when our men coming up, we again drove them, and they fled from the field not to return to it, which we occupied and encamped upon. A most mel- VOL. 1.—8 114 SAN DIEGO TO along the valley near the river, we reached, in six miles, the Indian village of San Pasqual, consisting of forty or fifty rude huts of mud, grass, and poles. A few patches of ground seemed to be cultivated; but, ancholy duty now remains for me: it is to report the death of my aide- de-camp, Captain Johnston, who was shot dead at the commencement of the action; of Captain Moore, who was lanced just previous to the final retreat of the enemy; and of Lieutenant Hammond, also lanced, and who survived but a few hours, We had also killed, two sergeants, two corporals, and ten privates of the First Dragoons, one private of Volunteers, and one man attached to the Topographical Department. Among the wounded are myself (in two places), Captain Gillespie, and Captain Gibson, of the Volunteers ; one sergeant, one bugler, and nine privates of the Dragoons; many of them receiving from two to ten lance wounds, most of them when unhorsed, and incapable of resistance. Our howitzers were not brought into action; but coming to the front at the close of it, before they were turned so as to admit of being fired apon the retreating enemy, the two mules before one of them go alarmed, and, freeing themselves from their drivers, ran off among the enemy, and were thus lost to us. The enemy proved to bea party of about one hundred and sixty Californians, under Andreas Pico, brother of the late Governor. The number of their dead must have been cot siderable ; though I have no means of ascertaining how many, as just ‘previous to their final retreat they carried off all excepting six. The eat number of killed and wounded proves that our officers and men have fully sustained the high character and reputation of our troops: and the victory thus gained over more than double our foree may 4 sist in forming the wreath of our national glory. I have to return my ‘thanks to many for their gallantry and good conduct on the field, and particularly to Captain Turner, First Dragoons, and to Lieutenant Emory, Topographical Engineers, who were active in performance of their duties in conveying orders from me to the command. “On the morning of the seventh, having made ambulances for our wounded and interred the dead, we proceeded on our march, when the enemy showed himself, occupying the hills in our front, which they left as we approached, till reaching San Bernardo, a party of them too = an eee aaa ALAMO MUCHO. 115 on the whole, the place bore a miserable appearance. Few Indians were seen, as they were still indulging in sleep. Crossing the San Pasqual River again, we reached the base of the hill, or rather mountain, of the same possession of a hill near to it, and maintained their position till attacked by our advance, who quickly drove them from it, killing and wounding five of their number, with no loss on our part. “On account of our wounded men, and upon the report of the sur- geon that rest was necessary for them, we remained at this place till the morning of the 11th, when Lieutenant Gray, of the navy, in com- mand of a party of sailors and marines, sent out from San Diego by Commodore Stockton, joined us. We proceeded at ten a.m., the enemy no longer showing himself, and on the 12th we reached this place; and I have now to offer my thanks to Commodore Stockton, and all of his gallant command, for the very many kind attentions we have received and continue to receive, from them. “Very respectfully, your obedient servant, (Signed) S. W. KE ; Brigadier General, U.S. A. “ BRIGADIER GENERAL R. J ONES, “ Adjutant General, U.S. A.” “The eminent services of Commodore Stockton,” says Lieutenant Revere, “ at this most important and critical juncture, can hardly be too highly extolled. While the party press at home were making free with his proclamations, and denouncing the decided course which he had taken the responsibility to adopt, those who were at the seat of war re- garded him as the sheet anchor of their hopes, and were able to see that his whole conduct was suited to the emergency which had ansen, To his gallantry, wisdom, sagacity, and prudence, to his timely and energetic measures, the people of the United States are chiefly indebted for the rapid and final suppression of the Californian ‘nsurrection, which at once and for ever sealed the destiny of the most ApS and opulent territory in the world.”—TZour in California, 116 SAN DIEGO TO name, the terror of all travellers when accompanied by wagons. We had heard much of this hill, and were fully prepared to undertake the labor of passing it. To keep our seats in the wagon was out of the question; so we all got out, and literally put our shoulders to the wheels. The driver, while he held the reins, braced up the wagon to prevent its upset ting, and Dr. Webb and myself alternately pushed behind or chocked the wheels. The mules tugged _ with all their strength, and we moved steadily though slowly on, stopping every forty or fifty feet to let the animals rest. The road pursued a zig-zag course, winding along the side and around the hill, ,which somewhat lessened the difficulty of the ascent. But the steepness was not the greatest difficulty to en counter. This consisted in the “ sidling” places, where the wagon could not stand upright, and required to be held up with ropes while ascending or descending. Then, again, portions of the road were very rocky, and much gullied by running water. Occasionally there was a cessation of hills, and a short piece of good road ; but then soon came descents, which were at tended with more trouble than the ascents; for the wheels had to be locked, and the wagon held up with ropes. In this way we journeyed the whole day with little variation. San Pasqual forms part of a high mountain ridge running north and south. From its summit we had a fine view of the surrounding country, though lesser hills extended far along its base. I have 2° doubt that a closer reconnoissance of the country would make known a more practicable route than this, by ALAMO MUCHO. 117 _ avoiding such a frightful mountain. It answers well enough for pack-mules, for which I presume it’ was constructed; but it was never attempted to be passed with wagons until Colonel Cooke crossed it in 1847. A variety of trees and shrubbery grow along the road, with the greatest abundance and variety of wild flowers, for the most part, as is usual in this country, of brilliant colors. The long descent from this mountain, after the higher portions had been passed, was comparatively easy. We then reached valleys covered with live-oaks, and affording an abundance of grass. Next, several small hills, with intervening valleys and patches of woodland, were passed, until we reached Santa Isabel. When within a couple of miles of this place my mules began to show the effects of their toilsome day’s jour- ney, and the wagon was nearly disabled. Fearing they would not get in, I took my servant’s mule and hastened on to our camp, which I reached at seven o'clock, and sent two fresh mules back to the assist- ance of my party. Soon after Dr. Webb came in, and reported that the axle-tree had given out, and the wagon could proceed no further; so that it was neces- sary to send pack-mules to bring in its contents, and also provisions for the men. I now took possession of my tent with its appurtenances, and sat down to an excellent supper, prepared in anticipation of my com- ing. It was pleasing to find myself once more ina tent for the first time since I was taken ill at Ures. It Was invariably the case, that we all enjoyed better health when in camp and on our march, than when shut up in quarters with little or nothing to do. An 118 : SAN DIEGO TO active, moving life in the open air always brings with it a good appetite and sound sleep, and is the surest antidote to, or rather preventive of, disease. Distance travelled to-day, twenty-two miles. : I found my party encamped a mile beyond the Indian village of Santa Isabel, in one of the most lovely groves of large branching oaks that it had ever been our fortune to meet with. It is closely hemmed in on three sides by high hills, all of which are thickly wooded, while a clear mountain stream passes directly through it. Grass in abundance grew all around us, on which our mules were luxuriating. The tents were all pitched beneath trees, and but a few feet from the stream to which I have alluded. Soon after I arrived, Colonel Craig, commander of the escort, called and reported his men ready for our march. He had been furnished by Colonel Magr- der with six additional soldiers, who were to accom pany us to Fort Yuma. Lieutenant Whipple was occupied during the evening in taking astronomical observations, as the weather was now clear and plea sant, a very perceptible change having taken place since we left the coast. Soon after the train had left its camp near the Mis- sion of San Diego, it was reported to me by Mr. Thur ber (who acted as Quarter-Master in addition to his other duties), that another wagon would be absolutely necessary. [accordingly directed that he should send Mr. Leroux at once to the Mormon settlement at Sa” Bernardino, about a hundred miles distant, to purchasé a wagon from some of the recently arrived emigrants, and should await his return at Santa Isabel. Mr. Lerou™ ALAMO MUCHO. 119 who but a short time previous had been to that place, and knew many of the Mormons, set off on his errand. May 30th. Remained in camp. Got my wagon in, and made a new wooden axle-tree. Found the iron portion much bent and very weak. Lashed the two strongly together with rawhide. Santa Isabel is an Indian village, and was once a place of some note, when the missionary establishments were in the ascendancy. A roofless church and a few miserable huts, are now all thatremain. Nevertheless, the inhabitants cultivate the soil, and by means of irri- gation, which they well understand, raise wheat, maize, pumpkins, and beans. The vine succeeds very well here, and was formerly cultivated to a considerable ex- tent. The land near is very fertile, which had induced some Americans to select it for their homes. The long neglected fields were being turned up, which gave the valley a pleasant appearance. Several of the In- dians, who belong to the Diegeno tribe, visited our camp to-day. They were dressed in their holiday clothes, such as red and white shirts; while the chief, Tomaso, who seemed an intelligent man, wore an old Coat trimmed with silver lace, which had once belonged to some Mexican officer. May 31st. Remained in camp. In the afternoon Mr. Leroux returned, accompanied by a wagon, which was driven by its owner, a Mormon, named Smithson. After paying him, I invited him to remain with us over night, as he had hada fatiguing day’s journey. We were much amused during the evening in listening to the history of our Mormon friend, who also enlightened us with a lecture on the peculiar doctrines of his sect. 120 SAN DIEGO TO He seemed a harmless, though zealous man, ardent in his religious belief, and was I should think, a fair spe- cimen of his fraternity. His people had lately pur- chased the extensive haciendas and buildings at San Bernardino, covering several miles square, for seventy thousand dollars, one half of which amount they had paid in cash. This is one of the richest agricultural districts in the State, and is said to have been a great bargain. ! June Ist. In consequence of the heat, I deferred leaving until 6 o’clock in the evening. As the party was now got together, I give the names of those com- posing it. Joun R. Bartrert, Commissioner. Tomas H. Wess, m. pv. Secretary and Surgeon. Grorce THURBER Quarter-Master, Commissary and Botanist. Heyry C. Prarv, Draughtsman and Artist. Matcotm Seaton, Assistant Surveyor. Antorne Leroux, In charge of Pack-mules ; with servants, cooks, arieros, and teamsters. We had but two wagons, the remainder of our camp-equipage and provisions being transported by pack-mules. Dr. Webb and myself, rode in a small wagon, W which I bought in San Francisco, and which turned out to bea very poor affair, made to sell, and not for such a jour- ney as lay before us. We aie had riding animals for @ change, and in case of accident to the wagon. - The party to complete the survey of the Gila, was as follows: Lisur. A. W. Wupete, Corps Topographical Bgineers Astronomer in command. ALAMO MUCHO. 121 Hucu CaMpBEt, [st Assistant. Frank WHaEarton, Topographer and Assistant. _ Heyry C. Force, Assistant. Joun J. Prarr, Do. Joun O’DonocuueE, Computer. Cuartes A. Gicquet, Instrument carrier ; with jlag-bearers, attendants on instruments, laborers, servants, cooks, arrieros, and teamsters, making altoge- ther about twenty-five men. This party had both wagons and pack-mules as well as myself; and all, both officers and attendants, were mounted on mules or horses. Lieut. Coronet L. S. Crate commanded the escort, now reduced by desertion to five men of his own com- mand, with a detail of ten men from that of Colonel Magruder, at San Diego. The entire party embraced six wagons, twenty-five pack-mules, and about fifty officers and men, mounted. June 1st. The day being very hot, we did not strike our tents and leave camp until 6 o'clock, P. M., when Colonel Craig and myself led the way. The road Was very good along the valley where it was level ; but there were many deep gullies, which required the use of ropes to keep the wagons in an erect position. Our course had been north-east. The scene changed as we passed around the spur of the ridge which bounded the eastern part of the valley. Here a broad plain opened _ tous, with but few trees, although well covered with grass. Our course now lay south-east. The moon tose remarkably bright; and, with a cool and comfort- able night, we’ jogged steadily along and made good progress. Towards midnight we entered a thick grove 122 SAN DIEGO TO of oaks, which so closely lined the road, that it was with some difficulty that we found our way through them. It was a beautiful spot for an encampment, and we felt quite disposed to stop; but we knew of no water near. The grass, too, was quite sparse. We there- fore pushed on to the Indian village of San Felipe, neat » which we encamped at 2 o'clock in the morning. I immediately threw myself down and enjoyed a delight- ful sleep, such as none can appreciate but those who have tried a camp life. Distance travelled, twenty- eight miles. June 2d. Found ourselves in a valley without woods, in the lower part of which was a marshy spot with pools of water. Early in the morning our tents were thronged with Indians, who appeared to belong to the Diegeno tribe. They were a filthy looking set half clad and apparently half starved. During the day, we saw many men and women wading about the marsh gathering roots and seeds; of which two articles and acorns, their principal food consists. The women seemed to be the chief laborers, the men lounging about the camp most of the day. The improvidence of this people seems almost incomprehensible. A very little exertion would have repaid them with all the wheat, maize, and vegetables, required for their sub- sistence. To these they might add a few cattle, which, in this country, may be obtained for a mere trifle from the ranchos, whose increase in this fine val- ley would give them a plentiful supply of meat. AS it is, they have neither corn nor meat, and spend ten times as much labor in collecting the roots, seeds, and other wretched food they live on, as would be necessary by adi aleaiee a est ALAMO MUCHO. 123 cultivating the soil to produce bread, fruits, and meats in abundance. ; Their village consists of twenty-three miserable old huts or wigwams built of straw and rushes. Some were covered with raw hides of various colors. A few small patches of ground were cultivated, not exceeding alto- gether a couple of acres. This was not for the want of land, as there are many hundred acres of good land around them, which by irrigation could be made very fertile. From appearances near the village, I was led to believe that there had long been a settlement here, there being not only traces of former buildings in every direction, but also of acequias or trenches for irrigating the lands. : At4 p.m. struck our tents. The road continued good for six or seven miles, its course still south-east. The grass had now disappeared, and the thorny chap- poral which had taken its place was the first indica- tion that we were passing into a desert region. We how entered a cafion, or mountain pass, caused, like most others, by the action of running water for ages. This pass had been used only for mules, until Colonel Cooke entered the country with wagons. Not being able to get through, he was obliged to come to a halt, and open a passage with axes and hammers through the solid rock, a work of great labor. This defile consists of perpendicular walls of rock about fifteen feet high, and of a width barely sufficient for Wagons to pass. In its bed are large masses of rock reaching to the axle-trees. At the narrowest point one of our wagons stuck fast; but after taking out the mules, by dint of lifting and prying, we at length * 124 SAN DIEGO TO got through. The space here was but two inches wider than the axle-trees of the wagons. There were, — also, several steep and rocky descents where the wheels had to be locked, and the wagons held back with ropes. ” This pass was not less than three miles in length; and should two trains meet here, it would prove a serious business for both. The descent into the valley beyond, continued gradual for several miles; but at length our course was stopped by a bold rocky hill running directly across tt This we ascended, over avery bad road ; but bad as it was, it was better than the descent, which was the most perfect break-neck place that a wagon ever attempted to pass. It was exceedingly steep, filled with large loose rocks, with an occasional perpendicular leap of three or four feet. I feared that our wagons wou not hold together, even if they escaped being upset, But the only accident that happened, was the breaking of our two remaining barometers, a very serious one for the meteorological observations. At the bottom of this hill, we continued for five % six miles through a valley, with no other vegetation than the usual desert plants and cacti, accompanied by the great agave which seemed to luxuriate in this bar renness. At 11 o'clock, p. 1, we reached Vallectta, eighteen miles from San Felipe, where we pitched ou tents among some willows. June 3d. Vallecita, as its name indicates, is a little valley, surrounded by lofty and barren mountains Pools of sulphurous water are found among the willoW bushes, but not a tree was to be seen. The grass, 1% had changed, having here a wiry character. A depot? ALAMO MUCHO. 125 provisions is kept at this place, with a file of soldiers, for the supply of Fort Yuma, and of government trains passing and repassing. A few horses are also kept here, to facilitate the communication between Fort _ Yuma and San Diego. The distance between those places is about two hundred and twenty-five miles, and Vallecita is about half way. Beyond it, towards the Colorado, there is little or no grass; so that trains, after they have crossed the desert, usually stop a day or two here, to recruit their animals. A band of Diegeno Indians live here, to whom the urival of a train is an event of some importance. They made their appearance early this morning, dressed in their holiday clothes, and appeared more cleanly than any Indians we had seen. Nearly all wore clean white or fancy calico shirts, their only garment; pantaloons’ being regarded by all Indians as useless articles of dress. These people were formerly connected with the Missions, and hence call themselves Christians ; but they now live ina most degraded state of indo- lence and poverty. They cultivate beans and pump- kins, and pick up an occasional mule, which serves them for food ; though their main reliance is upon the acorns, Which they collect and store up in large baskets for Winter use. The labor of preparing them for food is, like almost all other labor, performed by the women, who were to be seen in front of every hut wielding — their heavy stone pestles. When the acorns are re- duced to flour, it is washed to remove the bitter taste, and then cooked into a kind of gruel, or made into bread. These Indians were very attentive to us, bring- ing us wood (which is very scarce here) and water, 126 SAN DIEGO TO and otherwise assisting about the camp. They seemed amply repaid with a few old clothes, or any fragments of food that remained.from our tables. Our culinary department was always the great point of attraction to these poor creatures, who would often form a double circle around the camp-fires, much to the annoyance of the cook. The weather was excessively hot to-day, the mercury standing at 105° Fahrenheit in the shade under the bushes. Took our departure, at 6 p. mM. Each mile we advanced, grew more barren. The road continued through deep sand or loose gravel, reminding us that we had fairly entered upon the desert of which we had heard so much. On leaving this valley, all traces of grass disappear. A few stunted shrubs armed with ‘thorns, strove hard for an existence; and the wonder is, that any vegetable life can flourish amid such bar renness. But the cacti and agave seem to delight in such arid and desert regions, as though the intense _ heat and dry atmosphere were the vivifying influences that nourish them. The bleached bones and dried carcasses of oxen, mules, and sheep, began to mark our road, mementos of the sufferings of former parties. The moon still shone bright, while we journeyed slowly on throngh the heavy sand for twenty miles, till, at one o'clock in the morning, we arrived at Carrizo Creek. I had got considerably in advance of the wagons, 42 without waiting for them or my tent, stretched myself | j | on the bare earth (for it was so warm that a covering was unnecessary), and was soon lost in sleep. . June 4th. Carrizo Creek* ig one of those remark- * Carrizo, means reed grass (Arundo phragmites). + ALAMO MUCHO. 127 able streams which sometimes spring up in desert regions. It rises in the very centre of barrenness, flows for about a mile, and is again absorbed by the ‘desert. It has worn for itself a bed about fifteen feet below the plain. It is from three to nine inches in depth, and varies from six feet to as many yards in width. Where the banks have been washed away, it receives, in several places, accessions from springs; but when these cease, the stream grows less and less, until itis all absorbed by the sands. In the ravine or bed formed by this water, mezquit bushes grow to the height of ten or twelve feet, the deep green of their _ foliage presenting a pleasing contrast with the desola- tion around, and marking the course of the stream from its beginning to its end. The grass, which grows in a few patches, in little nooks which receive their moisture from the creek, is very coarse and wiry; and of this there is not enough to supply the few passing trains that come this way. The heat here to-day was insupportable,the mercury ranging at 114° in the shade. The rays of the sun beat through our tents, so that we could not remainin them. Some retreated beneath the wagons; while myself and others found our way into little gullies or ravines beneath the clay banks, where, partly sheltered by the banks and partly by bushes, we passed the day. We had much trouble here with our mules, who did not like the coarse grass before them; so that while the herders thought that they were quietly trying to pick up a living on the margin of the stream, they were «Off at full speed for Vallecita, where they had a recol- — lection of better fare.- Some were arrested in their 128 SAN DIEGO TO flight within a few miles of camp, while others were not overtaken until they had reached the grassy patches they were in search of. ‘This is a common habit with mules, and often impedes the progress of a train. | have known them, where the grass was poor, to retrace their steps twenty-five miles for the sake of finding better. Experience showed us that in such places as this the animals must be closely watched, and at night _tied up to the wagons. We noticed a peculiarity in the water here, which was that, although sweet, it did not quench the thirst. We all drank incessantly without being satisfied. As we entered the great desert here, and expected to find no water, except by digging, until we reached the Colorado, one hundred miles distant, we filled all our kegs, canteens, empty bottles, and every thing else that would hold water. I then directed the wagons t0 be loaded, the mules packed, and the train to move at sunset. I have forgotten to mention that we saw along the banks of Carrizo Creek, near our camp, an innumera ble quantity of the bones and dried carcasses of sheep: arare occurrence in a region infested by hungry wolves; but numerous and hungry as the wolves are, there is such a thing as satiating their appetites, and of this we had an example before our eyes. Here wer® the bodies of many thousands of sheep lying ™ piles within the space of a hundred yards. This wholesale mortality is said to have been caused by their eating ofa poisonous plant; but as we could find no specimens such a plant, we believed that the poor creatures, after traversing the desert and being: probably three or four Taco A ss a a ALAMO MUCHO. 129 days without water, had drunk themselves to death. Most of the bodies were in the immediate vicinity of the stream. ~ It was not until half-past seven o’clock, p. m., that we moved from camp. The road continued heavy through loose sand and stones, making it impossible to move more than two miles an hour. Six or seven miles brought us to a steep sand hill, which no team alone could ascend. Ten mules were accordingly hitched to each wagon, when by dint of tugging, and a good deal of beating and hard swearing, the poor animals reached the summit with their loads. One of Colonel Craig’s wagons was upset and rolled over and over to the bottom of the hill, but fortunately escaped with no other damage than that of smashing the medi- cine chest; which, however, was a loss we afterwards severely felt. This was the most.desolate spot we had seen, pre- senting indeed the very climax of barrenness. We were surrounded in all directions by hills of clay, their sides cut into deep ravines. As far as the eye could reach by the light of the moon, which-rose at ten o'clock, not a sign of vegetation appeared. I believe there had not been a day, from the time of our landing on the coast of Texas till we trod the shores of the . broad Pacific, that we had not seen the mezquit insome form, or the common prickly pear. Here they could not exist. ; June 5th. Reached the water-holes called Sackett’s Wells, twenty-four miles from Carrizo, at 3 o’clock this morning. Before leaving camp last night, I sent four men with spades in advance, in order that they might , VoL. 11.—9 130 SAN DIEGO TO sink some holes, and have a small supply of water for us on our arrival; but as they were ignorant of the place and were unfamiliar with the best indications of water, they had accomplished little. Some more expe- rienced hands now set themselves busily at work in an arroyo, or place where there was a slight depression in the desert, marked by some mezquit bushes, whose freshness showed that water sometimes reached their roots. After digging about six feet, the water began slowly to enter; and by dipping it up with a basin, we managed to supply our animals. The desert where we were now encamped, is at open and remarkably level plain, with scarcely a0 undulation. On the south-west, twenty miles distant, is a range of lofty mountains, which forms its limit in that direction. On the north and east, it is bounded by the horizon, no mountains or hills being visible. The soil is either a fine gravel, or loose sand. +h€ vegetation is exceedingly sparse, consisting chiefly of stunted mezquit and the larrea Mexicana. Near the arroyo, where water sometimes finds its way, ® few mezquit bushes have attained the height of ten feet, whose brilliant hue is most agreeable to the eye, aml so much barrenness. A little grass was found in clumps about a mile from our camp in an arroyo, whither our animals were sent. This, with the young shoots ° the mezquit, was all they had. At sunrise this mor ing, the mercury stood at 92°, and at noon 108° in the shade. Distance from Carrizo Greek, twenty-five miles. : ; Lieutenant Sweeny arrived this morning from Fort Yuma in pursuit of two deserters from that post, and ALAMO MUCHO. 131 | remained with us during the day, believing himself to be in advance of them, and that they would stop here for water. In the afternoon Mr. Jenkins reached us from San Diego. He was the bearer of dispatches to me from the government, having left El Paso del Norte on the 19th February. He came by way of Chihua- hua and Mazatlan; and had encountered serious ob- stacles on his route. As there was no party coming across the country by the Gila route, he was obliged to pass through Mexico, which had taken him nearly four months. . As it was too hot to march at all during the day, we continued as before, to make our journeys at night. At 7 p. m. left camp, taking the lead as before in my little wagon, with Colonel Craig riding on a mule at my side, while the wagons and train followed closely be- hind. The road for the first few miles was heavy ; after which, we struck the ‘hard gravel, where it was so smooth that we increased our pace. After keeping with me for an hour and a half, the Colonel left me, Saying he would ride back and see to the wagons, as some of them were dropping behind. This course was usual with him. He felt a heavy responsibility upon his shoulders, and deemed it his duty to watch every part of the train. He considered his post to be in the advance ; but during every march, whether at night or by day, he rode around the train, to see that all was right, and that his men observed proper vigilance. At 11 o'clock the moon rose, when we could see our way better. The pack-mules, which had been in the rear, Soon after came up, and, as was usual with them, pushed by me. On long marches, pack-mules always increase 132 SAN DIEGO TO ALAMO MUCHO. their speed as they progress, when it becomes difficult to restrain them to the gait of those in wagons. The road continued very good during the night; so that, with the bright light of the moon and the air moderately cool, we made good progress. As morning approached, the road became heavier ; when my mules fell back, the pack-mules still keeping on at their former pace. We had now to get out and walk; and this relief to the poor animals enabled us at length to reach the stopping place known as the Alamo Mucho, where water is ob- tained by digging. Although there may have been cotton-wood trees. here in former times, all have now disappeared ; for we saw nothing but stumps and a few miserable mezquit trees. ALAMO MUCHO TO FORT YUMA. 133 CHAPTER XXVII. ALAMO MUCHO TO FORT YUMA. The Desert—Dry basin—“ New River ”—Alarming news from the train— Colonel Craig’s encounter with the deserters from Fort Yuma—Re- port of Sergeant Quin—Dr. Webb returns in search of Colonel Craig and Sergeant Bale—Loss of wagons on the Desert—Great heat—Return of party with the body of Colonel Craig—Sergeant Bale’s return— Further particulars of the encounter with the deserters—Burial of Col- . onel Craig—Word sent to San Diego—Prompt action of Colonel Ma- OTT Y. A Par ee 2 1 | 24% os r%.2 nde Colonel MUL WwVvAVveewve Craig’s character and services—March resumed—Cooke’s Well—Oolo- rado River—Banks washed away—A passage cut through the woods— Arrival at Fort Yuma—Depredations by the Yuma Indians on the camp at night—Unsuccessful pursuit—Lieut. Whipple commences crossing the Colorado. June 6th. Reached Alamo Mucho on the desert, at 7 o'clock this morning, after a journey of twelve hours without a moment’s rest, in which time we -had made forty-five miles. In long marches like this with pack-mules, it is not considered advisable to Stop; for no rest can be given to the animals without relieving them of their packs, to do which and replace them would require at least two hours. If a pack- train stops without relieving the mules of their bur- dens, the animals lie down and attempt to roll, an °peration which disarranges the packs and often does 4 . : ead 134 ALAMO MUCHO TO much injury. When there is grass and water, it is well, on long marches by daylight, to rest an hour or two during the heat of the day. Feed and water at such times, with rest from their loads, affords much relief; but when there is nothing to offer the weary animals, it is decidedly the best course to hasten’ on and complete the journey, unless it is too long to be accomplished in a day. The desert here is a vast open plain, exttendlisi as Well at Alamo Mucho. far as the eve can reach on every side, except on the south-west, where a chain of mountains appears some ¥ oe 3 FORT YUMA. 135 thirty or forty miles distant. The undulations are few and slight. Near our camp was a steep bank about sixty feet high, extending for miles, and descending to a great depression or basin, which appears to have been the bed ofa lake. It was in this bed that the wells or pits were sunk from which we obtained water. About twenty-five miles back from this place we crossed a ravine or arroyo some twenty or thirty feet wide, and about ten feet below the surface of the 4 desert, that forms the bed of what is known as the ‘‘New River.” Three or four years ago, this ravine was filled with water, as well as a large basin connected with it. The water suddenly appeared here, and by passing emigrants was hailed as a miracle and direct interposition of Divine Providence, like the manna furnished to the Israelites of old. This phenomenon is now well known to proceed from the Colorado River, which some years rises to a great height, overflowing its banks and the adjacent valley, and sometimes running back through lagoons and depressions in the desert for many miles. It was one of these great risings of the river that caused the Sudden appearance of the mysterious ‘New River” of the desert, which remained two years, and then dried up. By similar inundations the great basin at. Alamo Mucho has doubtless been, and may again be, filled. I was told by persons in California who had Crossed this desert, that they had found pools of brackish water several miles from the road. These I presume to be deeper basins, where the water stands longer than in the ‘‘New River” or the dry basins _ passed by us, cer 136 _ ALAMO MUCHO TO On the table-land or plain of the desert the vege- tation is scanty, consisting of dwarfish mezquit and larrea. In the basin near us were patches of grass, which, with the young twigs of the mezquit bushes, formed the food of our animals. In certain portions of the desert it is extremely annoying to travellers when the wind blows, as clouds of sand then fill the atmosphere. When one of our parties crossed it in January, they were overtaken by one of these storms, from which they suffered greatly, particularly as their animals had perished, and they were forced to traverse it on foot. Within two hours after my arrival, others of the party who were mounted came in, and among them Mr. Malcolm Seaton, who reported to me that about break of day the train had fallen in with the two deserters of whom Lieutenant Sweeney was in pursuit ; that Colonel Craig, having at once recognised them by their dress and muskets, spoke to them, and asked them where they were going. They replied, to Valle- cito. The Colonel told them he knew they were deserters from Fort Yuma, and advised them to return with him. After parleying a while, they told him they would not return; that they were desperate, and would shoot any one. who attempted to arrest them. Colonel Craig called for Sergeant Quin, of his com mand, and Sergeant Bale, the non-commissioned officer sent with the men furnished by Colonel Magruder. Mr. Seaton then left, under the impression that Colo- nel Craig would succeed in persuading the deserters to return with him. Besides the soldiers with the train, there were twenty or more men on whom the FORT YUMA. 3 137 Colonel could have called, had he deemed their aid necessary. As the wagons began to lag, Mr. Seaton hastened on to camp. About an hour after, Sergeant Quin rode into camp, his hat gone, and in a great state of excite- ment. He stated, that soon after he and Sergeant Bale had left the train, according to Colonel Craig's _ orders, they came up with the two deserters; where- - upon the latter halted, and declared they would go no further, but must settle the business on the spot. Colonel Craig again expostulated with them, and used every argument to induce them to surrender themselves, and return with him to Fort Yuma, but in vain. The Colonel told them who he was, and said that, if a return to the Fort was so re- pugnant to them, he would endeavor to have them assigned to his command, in which event they -might accompany the Commission. He then dis- mounted from his mule and handed his revolver to Sergeant Bale, at the same time throwing off his sabre. Thus disarmed, he approached the deserters, showing that he intended no violent measures, and _ believing that when he pictured to them the dif ficulties before them in crossing the desert, they _ would yet consent to abandon their desperate ane taking. q At this moment, the Colonel’s mule, being without his rider, moved off, and had got some fifteen or _ twenty yards, when the Colonel directed Sergeant — Quin to stop him. He did so, and had thereby sepa- tated himself from the Colonel and Sergeant Bale, when he heard the report of muskets, and looking 138 ALAMO MUCHO TO round, saw Colonel Craig stagger and fall. The next moment he saw Sergeant Bale rapidly discharging his revolver at the deserters, his mule at the same time prancing about; when presently both of them fell. He immediately advanced in the direction of the Col- onel; but before he had got many steps, the deserters rushed towards him, discharging a revolver which they had taken from Bale. Believing that both the Colonel and Sergeant Bale were killed or overpowered, and seeing but little chance for himself against too armed and desperate men, he put spurs too his horse, and made his way as fast as possible to my camp. As soon as the wagons came up, I ordered an ambulance to be prepared to return with a party in search of Colonel Craig and the missing sergeant, who, I hoped, might yet be found alive. As the mules had now come nearly fifty miles without rest, food, or water, they could not be immediately sent - back. Six of the best, however, were at once selected, and a good feed of oats given them. Bedding, cloth- ing, water, and provisions were put in the ambulance, and the whole placed under the charge of Dr. Thomas H. Webb. It was two o’clock in the afternoon before the party could be got off, Lieutenant Whipple and several others accompanying. From the information given by the party with the train, the encounter with the deserters took place full thirty miles from our camp. To retrace their steps this distance, with our weary animals, journeying be- neath an overpowering sun, wonld require the remaiD- der of the day, and a good portion of the night; yet J deemed it my duty to remain here, though we wer 3 IB SA ate a ah ae ee tee a = FORT YUMA. 139 in the heart of the desert, unprotected by a tree or bush, and exposed to a more oppressive heat than we had ever before experienced. As there was but little grass to be found, I caused the last of our corn and oats to be distributed to the animals, giving about two quarts to each. Disasters seldom come alone; and to add to the misfortunes of the day, Jesus Ortiz, one of the team- sters, came in and reported that the tire of one of the wheels having come off, his wagon had broken down, and in this disabled condition he had left it twelve miles back. As his mules were perishing for water, he © had hastened on with them. After the animals had been watered and had grazed for an hour on the straggling tufts of grass and mezquit bushes, I dispatched a party back with an empty wagon, to bring forward the contents of the broken one. They returned during the evening, and reported that the fore wheel was completely demolished and past repairing, and that the wagon could not be used without another wheel. They also reported that they had seen seven Indians, who kept at a distance, but followed them for several miles. In the afternoon, Mr. Johnson and an express rider arrived from Fort Yuma, and remained several hours to rest and water their animals. They were bound for San Diego. On hearing of the disaster to our Wagon, they informed me, that about seven miles in advance we should find a wagon in good order, which had lately been abandoned, and with which we could replace our disabled one. This was very welcome news to me; for we were not in a condition to lose a 140 ALAMO MUCHO TO wagon at this stage of our journey. I therefore sent out a party with mules in search, which soon after returned, bringing with them a very good vehicle. Disasters of this kind are of common occurrence on the desert, where mules give out or perish. One of our own wagons, in excellent order, was thus abandoned by the party which crossed here in January, and was soon after made a prize of. Two years previous to our crossing the desert, when a large number of emi- grants went over it to California, I was told that more than a hundred good wagons, with harness, pack-sad- dles, and a vast quantity of camp equipage, were scat- tered along the road. Many of these were subse- quently taken away by parties from the settlements, who came out for them with fresh animals; while others were broken up and used for fuel, or parts taken to restore the injured ones. Such was the eventful day of the 6th of June, with the heat at 108° Fahrenheit. We pitched our tents, and rolled up the sides to catch a little air; but it was like the African sirocco, and seemed as though issuing from a heated furnace. I found a little bower, about three feet high, made of bushes, and covered with raw hides, into which I crept, and passed the day. This retreat had been constructed by Captain Davidson, who the week before our arrival had been here from Fort Yuma for the purpose of opening a well. June Tth. In camp at Alamo Mucho. Remained as quiet as possible, moving only from my tent to my little bower. The men were occupied in enlarging the well, as it required much time to dip up the water, which was done with a bucket. The supply FORT YUMA. 141 was barely sufficient for the demand, which, in conse- quence of the great heat, was constant both for man and animals. The thermometer stood at 106°. At two o’clock in the afternoon, Dr. Webb and his party returned, bringing with them the dead body of Colonel Craig. They did not reach the scene of action until nearly ten o'clock at night, owing to the heavi- ness of the road, and the wearied condition of their animals. They then had much difficulty in finding the body, it being more than a mile from the spot to which they had been directed by the sergeant. After dividing, and searching in various directions, they formed a line from the road, placing men at such dis- tances from each other that the intervening spaces could be carefully observed. In this manner they at length met with tracks, which finally led them to a spot where the Colonel’s loose riding coat was found. Soon after they came to his hat, and finally to his corpse, which was discovered extended on the potent: and - carefully covered with a blanket: ‘The scene,” says the Doctor, in his report to me, ‘was a sad and sicken- ing one, and produced a strong sensation upon all present, and particularly on the Colonel’s body ser- vant. It was evident from appearances that the Colo- nel did not long survive the wound inflicted, or expe- rience much, if any, severe suffering. “The ground around was as undisturbed as though he had laid himself down to rest, and rr edly gone to sleep. Had he lingered long in the €xposed situation where he was, there being neither tree nor shrub to afford shelter, his sufferings, as the sun got high in the heavens, would have been extreme, 142 ALAMO MUCHO TO independent of what he might have undergone from the wound. “Not many feet distant,” continues Dr. Webb, ‘“we saw the dead body of Sergeant Bale’s horse, which had been perforated by a musket ball. The sergeant was nowhere to be found. I became satisfied that he had left the ground, probably without being mortally wounded. He had evidently, previous to his departure, taken his own blanket from the saddle, and with it covered the remains of the Colonel; for men who would brutally murder a fellow being, it was not for a moment to be presumed would have the slightest regard for the appearance or protection of the mutilated relics. The corpse I caused to be carefully rolled up and placed in the ambulance; and at three o’clock ip the morning we mournfully commenced our return march. ‘‘ After proceeding about ten miles on our Way back, we noticed ahead of us a man reclining by the road side; and on reaching him, much to my satisfac- tion, he proved to be the missing sergeant. ‘When he joined the Colonel, he was told the pur } pose for which he was summoned; and upon some inquiry being addressed to him, he stated that whilst _Teady to obey orders, from his knowledge of the desperate character of the deserters, he was confident they would not be taken without bloodshed. How- ever, as already observed, the Colonel’s feelings of kindness outweighed all apprehensions of danger, if he entertained any, and overbalanced all regard for self- protection. Having completely disarmed himself, and lessened his security still further by sending his “FORT YUMA. 143 sergeant for the stray mule, one of the deserters (Corporal Hays) said to the other, ‘Now is our chance, as there is only a man apiece ;’ whereupon they levelled their muskets, took deliberate aim, and fired. Hays, who shot the Colonel, was within five feet of him. | ‘The buck-shot from Condon’s musket passed through the calf of Sergeant Bale’s leg, the ball at the same time pierced the body of the horse which he was riding. He discharged two or three shots from the Colonel’s revolver; but the prancing of the animal _ under the wound received, prevented true aim being taken. The horse almost immediately fell; and before the sergeant could disentangle himself from the trap- pings, the deserters caught hold of him, and wrenched away the revolver, but promised to inflict no addi- tional injury upon him if he would remain quiet, which, under existing circumstances, he very properly engaged to do. He asked them to allow him to go to _ the Colonel; to which they did not object. They __ inquired if the Colonel had not some brandy with him. He replied; probably not, the Colonel not being a drinking man. However, they went to the body ere life had left it, and searched, and probably rifled, the pockets, as some small articles known to belong to the Colonel have not since been found. _ “They then turned in pursuit of Sergeant Quin, discharging several shots at him, their object probably being to obtain the two mules. Quin, as already remarked, effectéd his escape with his own animal ; but they secured the Colonel’s. Both mounted it, and made directly for the mountains.” 144 ALAMO MUCHO TO For the finale of this melancholy affair I refer the reader to the accompanying note.* * While the party were engaged in searching for Colonel Craig and the Sergeant, the express rider from Fort Yuma, on his way to San Diego, overtook them ; which gave Dr. Webb an opportunity to send intelligence to that place, Vallecito, Santa Isabel, etc., etc., relative to the probable fate of Colonel Craig, in order that suitable measures might be taken to apprehend the deserters, should they present themselves there. As soon as the news was received by Colonel Magruder, command- ing at San Diego, he sent expresses to the various military posts and settlements, and aroused the Indians in Southern California, whereby he was enabled to establish a cordon across the country with a view of intercepting the murderers. The routes are so few, and the watering places so well known, that this object was easily attained. A reward, too, was offered the Indians, to induce them to thoroughly scour the country and prevent the escape of these men. It was not many days before a party of Indians engaged in this duty discovered two men with muskets; and believing them to be the murderers, all but two concealed themselves. One of these Indians was a chief, an exceedingly shrewd man, who desired to secure his prize without bloodshed. They, there- fore, professed friendship for the men, and proposed to buy their muskets; an offer which the deserters gladly accepted, money being more impor- tant to them now than weapons. They were accordingly paid eight dol- | lars each, and the cunning Indians thus became possessed of their arms. But one of the deserters being still in possession of a large revolver, it was necessary to disarm him of this before they could make sure of their pris- oners, The Chief, therefore, manifested a great curiosity as to this sit- gular weapon, and asked the man to let him examine it. Not suspect ing the object of the Indian, who he supposed had never seen @ Te- volver before, he unhesitatingly handed it to him for inspection. The Chief no sooner had it in his possession, than he stepped back and pre- sented it to the breast of the deserter. The two Indians now gave the war-whoop ; whereupon the rest of the party, numbering some twelve oF fourteen, sprang from their hiding-place, and at once surrounded the prisoners. . They were conducted to the Mission of San Diego, and there surren: FORT YUMA. 145 I was desirous to take the body of Colonel Craig to Fort Yuma for burial with military honors; but Dr. Webb pronounced this impracticable, owing to its rapid decomposition, as it would require two, if not three, days to reach that place. A deep grave was, therefore, dug in the desert near our camp, and a few rods from the margin of the great basin. At sunset, when the mules had received their packs, the wagons had been loaded, and the party were ready to move, a proces- sion was formed, and the mortal remains of our excel- lent and much beloved friend, borne upon a cot by four soldiers, were consigned to his lonely grave. I read on the occasion the burial service of the Church of England. There was neither mound, rock, nor tree — to mark the spot ; a dreary solitude reigned around us, uninterrupted by asingle object, save the animals and men belonging to the party. Even the wind had died away ; and in the silence that accompanied our sad and solitary rites, Wolfe’s beautiful lines on the burial of Sir John Moore involuntarily suggested themselves to every mind. In order that the spot might be identified, a Wooden cross was erected at the head of the grave, on which was inseribed: ‘LIEUT. COL. L. 8 CRAIG, U.S A. Died June 6, 1852.” «| ais dered to Colonel Magruder. After much delay, arising out of the ques- tion whether they should be tried by a military court martial or by the Civile courts, they were finally tried, condemned, and hanged at San Diego, in presence of a yast multitude, among which were many Indians. The murderers were both Englishmen, and are said to have been deserters from the British army. : VOL. 1,—19 146 ALAMO MUCHO TO Colonel Craig was an officer of whom the army and the nation had just cause to feel proud. He entered the army from the love he felt for a soldier's life, and with- out the advantages which a military education at West Point is supposed to confer. Yet such was his devo- tion to his profession, such the skill he acquired in it, and such the bravery shown by him when called to serve his country, that he soon attained the rank of captain, and was breveted Lieutenant Colonel for gal- lant service rendered at the battles of Cherubusco and Molino Del Rey. His whole soul was absorbed in his profession, and he spared no pains to render his com- mand skilful in the use of their arms. He was always most punctilious in the discharge of duty ; and how- ever much his command was reduced by sickness or absence, he kept up his daily drills and parades with as much rigor and discipline as though an entire regt ment were under his charge. Towards his men he manifested the interest of a father as well as that of a commander, and was greatly beloved by them in return. During the stay of the Commission at San Diego, when nearly all the officers attached to it took advat- tage of the necessary detention to visit other parts of California, he remained in camp with his men, nor did he leave them for a single day, even when desertion had reduced their number to five. It was a source of deep mortification to him, that men who had followed him through the severe campaigns of the Mexican wat should desert him here, for the sake of pecuniary ad- vantage. His genuine kindness of heart, honesty of purpose, and rigid adherence to duty, had won for bum FORT YUMA. 147 2 large circle of devoted friends among civilians, as well as among his brother officers.* ; At 8 o'clock in the evening we left camp, our hearts filled with sadness. Passed several wagons in good condition which had been abandoned by their owners, among them some large ones, which bore the letters U.S., showing, as we were afterwards told was the case, that they had belonged to government trains, the mules of which had perished. The whitened bones of animals marked the road in many places, terrors to pass- ing emigrants. At twelve o’clock the moon arose, before which time we had much difficulty in finding the road; for so little was the desert travelled, that it was only by taking a star for our guide that we man- aged to keep in the right direction. I rode a mule all this night, and found it no easy matter to retain my seat in the saddle. Such, in fact, was the case with many * T cannot refrain from relating an anecdote to show that Colonel Craig’s kindness was extended to animals as well as his fellow beings. In our various marches across deserts, our animals often suffered much for want of water, and in consequence of the intense heat, required great attention. Notwithstanding the Colonel had men to take care of his horse, So fearful was he that he might not receive proper care, that at the close of a march he always accompanied his horse to the water (when it vas to be had), and, after seeing the animal well washed and cleaned, would himself give him the luxury of a good sponging. The result was, his horse was always in fine condition, and without the ailments incident to constant use under the saddle in a hot climate. On one occasion when we made along march, and encamped without water for the animals, and but a scanty supply for ourselves, a little was spared to the officers to wash themselves in the morning. The Colonel made a request to each of them, to refrain from using soap, that he might have the water they had used for his horse ; by which means he collected a gallon for the use of his favorite. 148 ALAMO MUCHO TO of us; and some of the party were so much overcome with drowsiness, that fastening their mules to bushes, or to their legs, they lay down on the desert, and stole afew minutes’ sleep. The road continued very sandy, and consequently very fatiguing to our jaded animals, which had had but little food for the last four days. As there was no necessity for keeping with the wagons, I hastened on with the pack-mules and several men who were mounted, and reached the next watering place, known as Cooke’s Well, at six o’clock in the morning, having been ten hours in the saddle. The distance from our last camp, was twenty-eight miles. After some time, finding that neither the wagons nor my carretella (small wagon) came in, I sent back some of the pack-mules to their aid. " But even with this assistance, they did not come up until three or four hours after my atti val. June 8th. AtCooke’s Well. On reaching here this morning, we were so much fatigued that we did not pitch our tents, but threw ourselves down on the bare sand beneath some mezquit trees, and were soon lost in sleep. The water obtained here was from a hole dug in the earth some ten or twelve feet deep, in a place about twenty feet lower than the general level of the desert. It had to be dipped up in a bucket, and passed to 4 second person midway towards the top, who emptiedit into a basin on the surface, from which the animals drank. There was no grass here, but a thick growth of mezquit trees about twelve feet high, with very wide spreading branches. These were loaded with beans; on which our half-famished mules fed freely, for it was all we could give them. Ag these trees afforded 4 FORT YUMA. 149 good shade, we remained beneath them during the day, which was as hot as before, the mercury ranging as high as 106°. But even with this heat, we deemed it a great luxury to be surrounded by such a delightful grove, after the total barrenness and desolation with which we had been surrounded for so many days. We had now left the plateau of the desert, and were upon the bottom-land with an alluvial soil. The party were so much exhausted with the last night’s march, and the exciting events which preceded it, that I determined to remain quiet during the day, and not leave until the moon arose. ‘ June 9th. Left camp at half-past one in the morn- ing, when the moon afforded a feeble light, without Which it would have been impossible to find our way. The whole party kept close together, with a sharp look out; as we were now in the country of the Yuma In- dians, with whom the Americans are at war. We learn- ed too, from the express that passed us on the desert, that bands of these Indians had been seen here two days before. Our journey was through a bottom filled with mezquit and cotton-woods; and from the great quantity of fallen trees of a large growth, one is led to believe that the whole bottom, from the point near Cooke’s Well, which is fifteen miles from the river, must have been covered with water within a few years, and for a considerable time too, to cause such a de- struction of timber. | For several miles after leaving the desert, and between that and the bottom land, there ran along our left a great sand-drift, or belt of moving sand, which extends far to the northward, and seems to be gradual- eyes . 150 ALAMO MUCHO TO _ ly encroaching upon the bottom. It is about forty feet high, and in its progress swallows up the largest trees of the valley. It is so loose as to be impassable for animals, and very difficult for men.* At 6 o'clock, our eyes were greeted with a sight of the great Colorado River, twelve miles below its junction with the Gila, at a place called ‘‘ The Algo- dones,” and soon after, we halted upon its bank It was much swollen, and rushed by with great velocity, : washing away the banks and carrying with it number- less snags and trees. The water, though sweet, was mugh charged with mud, giving it a dark reddish appearance, whence its name. We had seenno stream since leaving the Mississippi (the rivers in Upper Cali- fornia excepted) at all comparable, in point of size, to the Colorado. - After watering the animals, I thought it best to proceed a few miles further. Lieutenant Whipple, who had been here before, and was familiar with thescoun- try, said we should find a grove of.mezquit trees, which would furnish food for the animals; for the valley of the Colorado affords no grass. Near this spot is a rocky spur of the adjacent hills, called ‘ Pilot Knob,” extending to the river, where we found the remains of a stone fort built a few years before, by a party of Americans, who established a ferry here. On this ridge was one of the iron monuments erected by the Boundary Commission the year before, which the * Since my return, I have been informed by Major Andrews, U. 8. A., who was stationed at Fort Yuma at the time of my visit, that this belt of sand is about four miles in width, and from twelve to fifteen 0 length. : FORT YUMA. : 151 Yumas had already overthrown. The road ran along the river’s bank, which, as well as the bottom-land, was filled with a dense forest of willows, cotton-woods, and mezquit. But we had not proceeded far before our progress was suddenly arrested at a place where the road was entirely washed away. We now retraced our steps a short distance, but found it impossible to get along with the wagons without first cutting a path. _ All our axes were therefore brought into requisition ; but as much time appeared to be neces- sary to accomplish this work, and as the pack-mules could push through, Mr. Leroux led the way followed by Dr. Webb and myself. On reaching the spot select- ed by Mr. L. for the encampment, the mules were unpacked: we endeavored to lead them to the water, but found to our surprise that it could not be approach- ed, in consequence of a high abrupt bank caused by the rushing waters of the Colorado. We accordingly sad- dled-up again and pushed on towards Fort Yuma,which appeared a few miles in advance, the stars and stripes waving from the flag-staff first greeting our eyes through the dense foliage of the valley. When within a mile of the Fort, our further progress was stopped by a sluice which extended across the road, as broad as the river, and caused by its overflow. It seemed to run far into the interior, and to be passable only with boats. Perceiving a rude wigwam on the river’s bank, the Doctor and myself took possession of it, and, hitch- ing our mules to trees, lay down to rest ourselves; for ut was then noon, and we had been in the saddle since one o'clock in the morning. , An hour after I was aroused from my sleep by a 152 ALAMO MUCHO TO messenger from Major Heintzelman, commanding at Fort Yuma (whose sentinels, ever on the watch, had — discovered our approach some hours before), inviting me to the Fort, and sending a scow with men to take us across the sluice. Dr. Webb and myself availed. ourselves of the invitation, the rest of the party with — the wagons not having yet come up. We proceeded on foot, and, after crossing the sluice, were met by several officers, who conducted us to the Major’s quar- ters. We received a warm reception from them all; for visitors and countrymen are an exceeding rarity in this out of the way spot. A few emigrants, it is true, pass on their way to California; but they seldom reach here before August. Major Heintzelman invited me to take up my quarters with him, while Dr. Webb remained with Lieutenant Paige, The other officers we met here were Major Andrews, Captain Davidson, Lieutenants Curtis, Hendershott, Sweeney, and Bond, and. hau. ‘The train and the remainder of the Commission encamped on the opposite side of the sluice, my wis being to cross the Colorado as soon as possible, which could be done as easily from that place as from the Fort. | June 10th. The officers of the Commission crossed the sluice this morning and came up to the Fort, where they were all kindly received and hospitably enter tained. I now commenced arrangements for crossing the Colorado, which, in consequence of the great rise in its waters, and their increased rapidity, was a matter of much difficulty and risk. There was nothing FORT YUMA. 153 cross in but a small and indifferent scow, which could carry but one wagon at a time, and but a small number ofanimals. The entire number to be ferried over were one hundred and thirty-six mules and horses, twelve oxen, and seven wagons with their contents. Anxious that Lieutenant Whipple should not be detained a moment with the survey of the river Gila; which was to commence at its junction with the Colorado, and be carried to the point where the work was suspended in January, I directed his party to be moved over first, and as soon as the scow, which needed some repairs, could be made ready. The thermometer stood to-day in the shade at the Fort, where there was a current of air, at 105°; yet, as we were now quiet, it did not seem more oppressive than when in New York at 90°. June 11th. The startling news was brought me this morning, that the Yumas had entered our camp the preceding night, and stolen fifteen of our animals, including my valuable horse, the same that had been ridden by Mr. Gray in his journey across. He was the finest I had seen in the country, and had been brought to New Mexico from Kentucky. But this was trifling to the loss of so many riding and pack- mules, as it was impossible to replace them here. There had been two men on guard during the night; but they knew nothing of our loss until the animals Were missing in the morning, when the footprints of the - Ls Indians became visible. The animals, which had all _ been staked, or tied to trees, seemed to have been _ loosened and led away without the least noise by these _ accomplished marauders. I gave orders to take the trail and set off in pursuit, not with the expectation of 154 ALAMO MUCHO TO overtaking the Indians and recovering our property, but with the hope that, in the hurry of escape, some of the mules might have got away, which we might recover. But the pursuit was not attended with suc- cess. The parties returned after following the trail six or eight miles, which was as far as they could go with safety ; as the enemy might be lying in ambush, and overcome their pursuers when little expected. Experience has shown the utter futility of pursuing well mounted Indians on such an occasion, after they have got three or four hours the start; for they urge on their animals to the utmost speed. Mr. Leroux, who is an old trapper, guide, and hunter, and whose life for twenty-five years has been spent in New Mexico, has been often engaged in fights with the Indians, 4 well as in pursuing them to recover stolen animals. He says the only way to overtake them in such cases is, to take provisions for several days, and on first set- ting out in pursuit, not to hurry the animals, but follow the trail at a steady and moderate pace while daylight lasts. At night stop and rest; and as soon as daylight appears, continue the pursuit in the same manner, taking care not to overwork the animals. By thus continuing the chase, the third day will in most cases bring you up with the enemy; whose proximity ca? be ascertained by any experienced hunter, from the freshness of the trail, the manure of the animals, etc It then becomes necessary to proceed with caution, and with scouts ahead. When the Indians are dis covered, the pursuers keep at a distance concealed, and govern themselves by circumstances, whether 10 make an open attack, or wait until they have encam FORT YUMA. 155 for the night and then surprise them. When Indians find themselves pursued, they run for several days, and then scatter, so that it is impossible to catch them; -but if they suppose they are not followed, they stop at the end of one or two days. Lieutenant Whipple commenced crossing with his party this morning. It had been the practice to swim animals across the river; but it was now so swollen and rapid, as to preclude the possibility of so doing. They had therefore to be ferried over in the scow, a few at atime. The wagons were unloaded and taken over empty. Even with the aid of all our men, the progress in crossing was slow; and on: several occa-— ‘sions the scow, failing to reach the landing place on the opposite bank, was swept away by the current ‘between two and three miles down stream, before a landing could be effected. It had then to be towed up again with much labor, until it reached some nook or low spot in the bank where the animals could be landed. In this manner several hours were sometimes required for a single crossing. 156 FORT YUMA. CHAPTER XXVIII. FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. Crossing of the Colorado continued—Description of Fort Yuma—The Colorado and Gila Rivers—The adjacent country—Rich alluvial bottoms —Facility of irrigation—Ruins of the old Spanish Missions—Difficulty © supplying Fort Yuma—Plan for surveying the head waters of the Gulf of California—Frustrated by Colonel Graham—Discovery of the Colo- rado in 1540 by Alarchon—Later voyages—Difliculties in navigating the Colorado—Attempt of a steamer to ascend the river—Its velocity and height—Fort Defiance—Massacre of Dr. Langdon and his party by the Yumas—Indians of the Colorado—Early tribes not identified—The Yumas—Cocopas—Mohavis—Extent of Alarchon’s voyage in 1542— Fathers Kino, Font, and Garces. June 12th. At Fort Yuma. Lieutenant Whipple co™ tinued crossing his party over the Colorado, and com- menced the survey at the mouth of the Gila. ’ An express was sent by Major Heintzelman to San Diego with the particulars of Colonel Craig’s death, ™ order that additional efforts might be made to arrest the murderers. Colonel McCall, Inspector General U. 8S. Army arrived to-day, accompanied by Lieutenants Bond au Gardiner, to inspect the troops at Fort Yuma. June 13th. In accordance with the orders of Gen ral Hitchcock, Major Heintzelman detailed Lieutenant . AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 157 G. W. Paige, with twenty-seven men as an escort, to accompany the Commission to the Pimo Villages. They commenced crossing the Colorado to-day; but, owing to the swiftness of the current, were so unfortunate as to swamp their boat, which was laden with provisions. Excepting this accident, the parties of Lieutenants Whipple and Paige got safely over, and encamped on the margin of the river. June 14th. Sent the cattle over to-day, a more troublesome task than was expected. As they refused to lie down in the small scow, they were lassoed and thrown, and then drawn into it by their feet with mules. Qnce, just as the scow reached the opposite bank, one of the cattle broke loose, leaped into the river, and swam back; the current carrying him so far down, that he escaped into the woods, and could not again be found. June 15th. While the parties were still engaged ingetting across the river, I took occasion to make repairs on the wagons. My small wagon, in addition to the axle-tree, had given out in other places. An examination showed plainly that it was an article “made to sell,” and not to use. Every portion was found defective, all flaws being carefully covered up with paint. With no other conveyance than this for our long journey, Dr. Webb and I had a poor prospect ahead. The Doctor’s riding mule was among the num- ber stolen. The wagon we had picked up on the desert was found to be loose in many parts, requiring repairs. In consequence of the loss in horses and mules that we had sustained by the Yumas, we Were obliged to add some hundred pounds to each 158 FORT YUMA of the wagons, and an additional weight to each pack- mule ; besides which I nearly filled one of the wagons belonging to the escort. We should thus have to resume our journey with every wagon and mule loaded to the utmost, and without a single spare animal to replace any that might be broken down or lost. In repairing injuries to our wagons, every facility had been furnished me by Major Heintzelman, and by Major Andrews, United States Quarter-master at Fort Yuma. For their aid also in crossing the river, and for many acts of kindness extended by the officers here to myself and the gentlemen associated with me in the Commission, I take this occasion to express my ac- knowledgments. My cook ran away last night ; which event, though it gave me the use of one more mule, deprived me of a functionary whose services could not easily be dis pensed with. June 16th. Fort Yuma stands upon a rocky hill at the junction of the Gila and Colorado Rivers, and 00 the north-west angle of the bank of the united stream. The Colorado comes from the north, and, where it re ceives the Gila, is about five hundred yards wide. A __ bend, which the Gila takes about fifteen miles from its mouth, makes it come from the south to join the Colorado. The united stream first takes a westerly course, forcing itself through a cafion in a chain of rocky hills seventy feet high, and about three hundred and fifty yards in length. After sweeping around some seven or eight miles, it again assumes a southerly direction; and after a very tortuous course for about a hundred and thirty miles, it empties into the Gulf of . JUNCTION OF THE GILA AND COLORADO RIVERS, LOOKING UP THE GILA. AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 159 California. The rocky hills extend four or five hun- - dred yards north of the junction, and between two and three miles to the south of it. Beyond the latter termination rises the great plateau, or desert. The Colorado flows through a bottom or valley from two to four miles in width, thickly covered with cotton-wood and mezquit; beyond which is the desert, from sixty to seventy feet above the valley. As far as I could judge, from a bird’s-eye view taken from Fort Yuma, I should think the bottom-land of the Gila was from three to four miles wide near the junction. The portion towards the river is thickly covered with cotton-wood, and with willows on the margin, while that further back has nothing but mezquit. A fine panoramic view is presented of the whole country, from the sum- mit of the hills on which the fort stands. Looking northward, the course of the Colorado can be traced for about fifteen miles, when it suddenly winds around the base of a mountain ridge, and diverges to the orth-west. In this direction the view is most exten? sive. Ridge after ridge of mountains is seen, one ris- ing above and beyond the other, for a distance of about eighty miles. The higher chains assume the most varied and fantastic shapes, resembling cupolas, ¢ minarets, pyramids, domes; chimneys, etc. One of these singular summits is called the “‘ Chimney Rock ;” and from Fort Yuma is the most striking object in the landscape. It is said to be fifteen miles distant in a direct line, and about thirty following the course off the Colorado, On the east of the Colorado is the delta of the Gila. How far this extends back cannot be seen, the trees 160 FORT YUMA shutting off the view of the desert. On the north and west the line of the desert is perceived at a distance of about three miles, this line of view being inter- rupted by the isolated mountain called ‘‘ Pilot Knob.” At the south, short isolated ridges of mountains are seen at a great distance. Mr. Pratt took a panoramic view of the country here, which will convey a better idea than any description I can give. _ The Gila was not over fifty yards wide at its mouth ; but its width varies much in different seasons, being influenced by the rise of the Colorado, as well as the state of its own waters. The Colorado was now so high as to cause the Gila to flow back full fifteen miles. The Gila was still low, and, except near the junction, — but a diminutive stream. It is doubtful whether it can ever be navigated, except at its floods, and these are by no means regular. At such times flat-bottomed boats might pass to the mouth of the Salinas, near the Pimo villages. ’ The singular bend which the Colorado takes after it receives the Gila, gives to the United States both its banks for the distance of seven miles from the junction, or to the point where it resumes its southerly course. This arises from the stipulations of the fifth article of the treaty with Mexico defining the boundary line, which says, that “a straight line shall be drawn from the mid dle of the Rio Gila, where it unites with the Colorado, to a point on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, distant on¢ marine league due south of the southernmost point ° the port of San Diego.” The land on the southern ba of the Colorado which we thereby obtain is of little value for agricultural purposes; but should a considerable _ AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 161 town be built where Fort Yuma now stands, which is altogether probable if a railway should ever pass here, it will be an advantage to the United States to possess both the banks of this river for so long a distance. ‘The bottom-lands of the Colorado below the junc- tion bear the traces of former cultivation, acequias being’seen in many places. Whether this cultivation was by the Spaniards while they had a mission here towards the close of the last century, or whether by the Indians at an earlier period, is not known. But from the large trees, both erect and fallen, which now cover the bottom, even where the ditches appear, the cultivation, in my opinion, was anterior to the oceupa- tion by the Spaniards. I have never seen bottom-lands of this character which might be more easily irrigated. The banks of both rivers are here low ; and the descent near Fort Yuma would permit the opening of a canal a few miles above, which would irrigate the whole valley. When a stream is far below the level of the bottom-land, and its fall but slight, it is necessary to _ take the canal so long that the expense will not war- rant the undertaking. The active and enterprising commander here rethanade bringing these rich lands into cultivation as soon as he has completed the quarters for _ the men, upon which he is now engaged. Should he _ do so, he will be able to furnish his command with what they now most stand in need of—a good supply of vegetables. Diese by Fort Yuma the traces of the old Spanish - Mission buildings may still be seen.. These consist of partly demolished. stone walls of small buildings; though’a few years since the walls of a church were also VOL. 11,—I11 ks a fi am Bir % Be a oY i: lg Ae i eS es fh 4 a . ¥ iC “g ek tg ai epee: ee Ss - x 162 FORT YUMA visible. At the time of our visit these had been removed, and used for-building the barracks. There were two hundred soldiers, artillery and infantry, here, under the command of Major Heintzelman. The officers and men were living in tents, covered with sheds made of branches to protect them from the sun. The post was established the year previous, but, not receiving the usual supply of provisions, had been abandoned for several months. The command was as comfortably situated as the nature of the place and its inaccessibility would allow; but long deprivation of fresh provisions and vegetables had engendered the scurvy among the soldiers. The fort had heretofore been supplied by land from San Diego, at an enormous expense; but a par tially successful attempt had just been made to supply the place by water. A vessel loaded with stores was sent up the Gulf of California, and succeeded in getting some distance, up the river; but owing to the strong current she could not reach the fort. Wagons and scows were therefore sent down to bring up the pro visions, a labor attended with nearly as much risk and expense as bringing them all the way by land from the coast. It was in contemplation to procure ® small steamer for fetching the supplies from the head of the gulf. Such a vessel could meet with little oF no difficulty in getting up, and could also be used to advantage in exploring the Colorado above the fort. In connection with the survey of the river Gila, 3 was my earnest desire to explore and survey that po” tion of the river Colorado which extends from the point where it receives the Gila to the Gulf of Califor- AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 163 nia, a distance now understood to be about one hun- dred and thirty miles, by the sinuosities of the river. With this view, I recommended to the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, Secretary of the Interior, that Lieuten- ant I. G. Strain, of the Navy, an officer attached to the Commission, should be directed to take the four iron boats belonging to it, and survey the head waters of the Gulf of California, and the river Colorado to the mouth of the Gila. Lieutenant. Strain accordingly proceeded to Washington, and submitted to the Hon. Secretary of the Interior the plan embraced in the following letter: “ Wasuineton, D. C., October 31, 1850. “Sm :—In reference to the duty to which J. R. Bartlett, Esq., the United States Boundary Commissioner, requested I should be assigned, Thave the honor herewith to submit two projects—one of which, I hope, may merit your approval, “In assigning me to the command of the flotilla, composed of four boats belonging to the Boundary Commission, it was suggested that— in consideration of the important results which must accrue to the country from the early exploration and survey of the river Colorado below its junction with the Gila, as well as that of the upper waters of the Gulf of California, without which the former would be nearly valueless,—the Navy Department might be induced to detail the requisite number of seamen for the management of the boats; which would thus materially lessen the outlay of the fund appropriated for the prosecution of the Boundary Survey. Nomen could be obtained better adapted to this duty than seamen. “The importance ef the examination proposed by Mr. Bartlett, is obvious to every one acquainted with the present state of our new ter- -Titories on the Pacific, while the peculiar nature of the case does not place the duties in any particular department of the government. The examination of the upper part of the Gulf, and that portion of the Colo- © between its mouth and junction with the Gila, cannot be consider- ed as pertaining to the ‘ Coast Survey,’ as it is entirely embraced in the 164 FORT YUMA territory of the Mexican Republic; yet the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, giving to our citizens free ingress to the valleys of the Gila and Colorado, through the Gulf, which is the only route available for the purposes’ of commerce, makes an early examination of equal importance to that of any portion of the coast of our newly acquired territories. “Could the sympathies of the Navy Department be enlisted in - favor of this examination, and crews assigned to the boats already built for the use of the Boundary Commission, the service could be effectu- ally and economically performed. “Tf, however, the government should not deem such measures desir- able, I would respectfully suggest another project, which, though it would not possess all the advantages of that already suggested, would prove the most economical mode of prosecuting the explorations and surveys with the funds which are now, or may be placed hereatter, at the disposal of the Interior Department and the Boundary Commis- sioner. “The second project is as follows: That the four boats should be dispatched, in charge of two passed midshipmen and five seamen, in a steamer which will sail about the first of December to Mazatlan ; and that I should be authorized to proceed to El Paso, where the Commis- sion will be compelled to winter, and obtain from the party at that point a sufficient number of men to man the boats, and proceed with them overland to the port of Guaymas, on the Gulf of California, to which points the boats will be conveyed from Mazatlan in a coasting vessel. “From Guaymas we could easily ascend the Gulf in our boats to the point where it would be desirable to commence our examinations. “The advantage of this plan will be its economy ; as it will require but a few persons, who may be obtained from the navy, in addition to those who are already drawing pay and subsistence from the government. At present, the number of men forming the main body of the Commission 1s greater than can be advantageously employed; while the scarcity of provisions at El Paso, owing to the drought of last season, will make their subsistence enormously expensive during the winter. The horses and mules now belonging to the Commission, will have to be sold at El Paso, or sustained at a heavy expense during the winter: and by em . ploying a portion of them to transport the party to Guaymas, nO addr tional expense will be entailed upon the Survey, as they and the men cal be more economically subsisted on the journey than at El Paso. AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 165 “ The adoption of this plan would incur no additional outlay commen- surate with.the object in view, which can never be attempted under more favorable auspices. My opinion as to the superfluity of men now with the Commissioner, you will find supported by letters now in your department. : . “My views relative to the great expense of subsisting a large party of men and animals at El Paso during the ensuing winter, will be corrobo- rated by Colonel J. Rogers, special Indian agent, who is familiar with the present state of the country; while the opinions which I have ex- pressed, relative to the importance of the explorations proposed by Mr. Bartlett, you can assure yourself of by reference to the accompanying condensed narrative, which, you will observe, confirms the opinion pub- lished by the Hon. T. Butler King as to the fertility of the valley of the Colorado, and its future importance to our country. “To display the feasibility of a journey from EZ Paso to Guaymas, I have also inclosed a narrative of a journey through that region. “ Very respectfully your obedient servant, “T, G. STRAIN, “ Lieut. U.S. Navy, attached to Boundary Survey. *“ Hon, Avex. H. H. Srvarz, Secretary of the Interior.” _ The distinguished gentlemen then at the head of the Interior Department, ever anxious to promote the Cause of science, and particularly where the acquisition. of ‘knowledge of our newly acquired possessions was concerned, thought favorably of my suggestion, and the plan of Lieut. Strain, and, as I was informed, would have permitted that officer to carry it into effect. Be- : fore, however, he had an opportunity to do so, Brvt. Lt. Col. Graham had been detailed as Principal Astrono- mer, &c., to the Commission, and Mr. Stuart deemed it Proper to refer Lieutenant Strain’s letter and papers to him. The plan, strange as it may appear, was objected to by Colonel Graham. In reply, he remark- 166 FORT YUMA ed that it was “‘an injudicious arrangement, and ought to be dispensed with ;” that, although “by the late treaty, our citizens have the right of ingress and egress through the Gulf of California,” we might “ give of fence” to Mexico by the proceeding; and that the ex- penses attending this Survey could not be legitimately met from the appropriations granted by Congress for the Survey.” But the last and most extraordinary assertion is, that such an examination as Lieutenant Strain proposes, in connection with the-Survey, should not be intrusted to a naval officer. - “I have been frequently engaged on surveys for the last thirty. years,” says Colonel Graham, “of rivers, harbors, and portions of the sea-coast, and always found the best persons to manage the boats employed on such service, were the engineers and surveyors charged with, and responsible for, the execution of the duty.” Colonél Graham’s letter: to Secretary Stuart, embracing his _ - objections, will be found in Appendix E. : As the defeat of my plan has been a serious injury both to government and to commerce, I shall show that, both by the treaty with Mexico and my instructions, Thad authority to make the examination referred to. The sixth article of the treaty of Guadalupe Hidal- go provides, that : ‘‘ The vessels and citizens of the United States shall, in all time, have a free and uninterrupted passage by the Gulf of California, and by the river Colorado below its confluence with the Gila, to and from their posse sions situated north of the boundary line defined in the preceding [Vth] article; it being understood that this passage is to be by navigating the Gulf of California AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 167 and the river Colorado, and not by land, without the express consent of the Mexican government.” The United States government, knowing that oppor- tunities would be presented, in the course of the exten- sive surveys intrusted to me, to acquire important geographical knowledge ‘relating to the immense frontier along the line to be explored and surveyed, fully authorized me to seek such facts. In his instruc- - tions to me, the Hon. Secretary of the Interior says: ‘“As the organization of the Commission under your charge has been made for the purpose of collecting information relative to the country contiguous to the boundary line, in addition to the running of that line, itis desirable that you should avail yourself of every opportunity afforded by your passage through the unexplored regions of Texas, New Mexico, and Cali- fornia, to acquire information. as to its geography, natural history, &c., when it can be obtained without retarding the progress of the Survey.”* My duties required me to send boats to the mouth of the Gila to survey that portion of the river, as well as to carry provisions there for the surveying parties ; and I should have been guilty of neglect had I not endeavored to take advantage of this opportunity to examine the upper part of the gulf, and that portion of the Colo- rado between its mouth and the junction with the Gila. A minute survey of the entire gulf, about which Colonel Graham has made calculations, was not contemplated by either Lieutenant Strain or myself. The great obstacle to the ascent of the Colorado is * See Instructions, Appendix. 168 : FORT YUMA the tidal wave at its mouth, which has been noticed by all who have attempted to ascend it; and although the United States has been in possession of California six years, no official survey, exploration, or reconnois- sance has yet been made of tlie head of the gulf, or of the river below the Gila. The want of this is my apology for giving some notices of the entrance of this river by its discoverer and subsequent explorers. * As early as the year 1540, Fernando Alarchon, in a voyage to explore the Gulf of California, by order of Antonio de Mendoca, Viceroy of New Spain, disco- vered the mouth of the Colorado. It appears that ‘‘the pilots and the rest of the company” made serious objections to entering the river, and proposed that the fleet should return. “But,” says the persevering navi- gator, in his letter to Mendoga, ‘ because your Lord- ship commanded me, that I should bring you the secret of the gulf, I resolved that, although I had known I should have lost the ships, I would not have ceased for any thing to have seen fhe head thereof: and therefore 1 commanded Nicolas Zamorano, pilot major, and Dominico del Castello, that each of them should take a boat, and their lead in their hands, and run in among these shoals, to see if they could find out * I should do injustice to Major Heintzelman not to notice his _ efforts to explore the Colorado below Fort Yuma. He was unprepared with instruments for an accurate survey ; yet he did make a reconnols sance to ascertain the feasibility of getting his supplies up, which enabled him to lay down approximately the course of the river. I am indebted to him for a copy of this map, which is now in the hands of the engr neers of the Commission, and is all the material they possess for making a map of this portion of the country. AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 169 the channel whereby the ships might enter in; to whom it seemed that the ships might sail up higher (although with great travail and danger). And in this . sort I and he began to follow our way which they had taken, and within a short while after we found our- selves fast on the sands, with all our three ships, in such sort that one could not help another; neither could the boats succor us, because the current was so great that it was impossible for one of us to come unto another. Whereupon we were in such great jeopardy that the deck of the Admiral was oftentimes under water; and if a great surge of the sea had not come and driven our ship right up, and gave her leave, as it were, to breathe a while, we had there been drowned. And likewise the other two ships found themselves in very great hazard; yet because they were lesser, and drew less water, their danger was not so great as ours. Now, it pleased God, upon the return of the flood, that the ships came on float [floated], and so we went forward. And although the company would have returned back, yet for all this I determined to go forward, and to pursue our attempted voyage ; and we passed forward with much ado, turning our stems now this way, now that way, to seek to find the channel. And it pleased God that after this sort we came to the very bottom of the bay; where we found a very mighty river, which ran with so creat a fury of stream that we could hardly sail against it. In this sort I determined, as well as I could, to go up this river. And - with two boats, leaving the third with the ships, and twenty men, myself being in one of them, with Rode- rig0 Maldonado, treasurer of this fleet, and Gaspar de 170 - FORT YUMA Castilleia, comptroller, and ,with certain small pieces of artillery, I began to sail up the river.”* We hear little more of attempts to enter the Colo- rado until those of the missionaries about the middle of the last century. In 1746, Father Consag made a voyage for the purpose of exploring the Gulf of Califor- nia. He reached its head, and found the river. “At. the entrance,” he says, “is a triangular island, which divides the stream into two arms, one in California, running northward, and the other on the opposite side, running north-west. The people went ashore, and found themselves between two rapid currents: one of the rivers ebb, and in'the other the sea was flowing in with no less impetuosity, so that they had a very. narrow escape.”+ He attempted to go up the Colorado; but the current was so rapid that the boats could not stem it, and having no ropes to tow them, the project of further exploration was abandoned. The only attempt in recent times to enter the Colo- rado before the occupation of California by the United States, of which I have knowledge, is that of Lieute nant Hardy ofthe British navy.{ This gentleman was sent out by an English company connected with the pearl fishery ‘in the gulf; and in the course of his explorations he visited the Colorado. He has give? us a plan of the mouth of the river, accompanied by soundings; which bears every mark of correctnes, with the exception of an error in laying down the river Gila. For this he mistook a small branch falling * Hakluyt’s Voyages, vol. iii, p. 425. London ed. of 1600. + Venega’s California, vol. ii, p. 308. { Travels in the Interior of Mexico. London, 1829, p- 320: AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 171 into the Colorado about ten miles up; or it may have been a sluice filled with the rushing water from the tides of the gulf. This latter I think the more probable supposition. The Gila, as I have already mentioned, is known to enter the Colorado at more than a hun- dred miles from its mouth. Lieutenant Hardy found two small islands at the mouth of the river, and entered by the western chan- nel; where there was, at the narrowest point, but a sin- gle fathom of water, the width varying from ninety to two hundred yards. Owing to the narrowness of the channel, he was obliged to stand in so close to the shore that the jib-boom nearly touched it. The western bank was here high and perpendicular. The tide was running at the rate of nine miles an hour. With all his care, the vessel was thrown on shore, where she lay eight days. The flood and ebb tides swept by with the same velocity; and on one occasion the receding tide left his vessel one hundred and fifty feet from the water. He waited in vain for slack water, in order to replace the rudder, which had been unshipped. ‘But in the Colorado,” he says, ‘‘there is no such thing as slack water. Before the ebb has finished running the flood commences, boiling up full eighteen inches above the surface, and roaring like the rapids of Canada.” Since the foregoing was written, I have read an account of the most recent attempt to ascend the Colo- tado, which is given in the accompanying note.* * This statement is contained in the San Francisco Herald of June 11th, 1853: 172 FORT YUMA A few weeks before my arrival here, a fight took place between eight soldiers and a body of Yuma Indians, in which the former were all killed. The _ Mr. Turnbull left San Francisco in the schooner General Patterson, with stores for the garrison at Fort Yuma. At the mouth of the Colo- rado he met with a serious obstacle in the number of sand-banks and the high tides. “The tide,” he says, “rises from twelve to sixteen feet every twelve hours; the tidal wave, being sometimes four feet high, carries every thing before it. If a vessel strikes on a sand-bank at high tide, she becomes high and dry in a little while, and may remain so for weeks before she can be got off. Fortunately, the General Patterson, shortly after entering the mouth of the river, met a whale-boat contain- ing the mates and four of the crew of a vessel belonging to Mr. Turn- bull, which had been lying in the river for several months. They had been engaged in obtaining soundings, and were consequently enabled to pilot the Patterson up, without stopping at every moment to try whether she was over one of the dreaded sand-banks. In this way she ascen the river thirty-three miles in two days, and anchored. No other vessel had ever before made the same distance in less than twenty days. Turnbull, with a party, took a whale-boat at this point, and ascende the river to Fort Yunia, upwards of a hundred miles. “The river was swollen almost to a torrent by the melting of the snow at the head waters; and the country for fifteen miles on th sides was entirely inundated, the water standing four feet deep upo? its banks. The current was running at the rate of seven or eight.miles an hour, and multitudes of floating snags of trees were rushing down. — So . completely was the country overflowed, that Mr. Turnbull found 1 4 distance of ‘a hundred and twenty-five miles but two dry spots 0” the banks where he could cook his food. He was obliged to sleep on board his boat, as there was no land to be seen. “Within a few miles of Fort Yuma, he heard of the loss of the | steamer Uncle Sam, which it was his purpose to run regularly on - Colorado. He had brought out machinery for her in the Pattersor, which would have enabled him to stem the current of the river, and probably to have ascended considerably above the Fort. He has not yet given up his purpose, and will take the hull of another steamer out, the machinery being still at the Fort.” See a Gee aS ED ee eg eam NEES i ee a es “ta Cs 3: AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 173 Indians approached the soldiers, and drew their fire, when a large number, who lay in ambush, rushed upon them with the short clubs which form their principal weapon, and put them all to death. Major Heintzelman in turn sent several parties against them, and drove them all from the banks of the Colorado for some eighty miles above, destroying their corn fields and their villages. They had been so cruel and treache- rous to the various parties of Americans passing here, and had manifested so much hostility towards the troops, that it was found useless to attempt to conciliate them, or make any treaty with them, unless they themselves were forced to come in and ask it. They have often made treaties with the Mexicans, only to break them when a favorable opportunity offered to plunder andemurder. ‘When Lieutenant Whipple was here, in 1849, with a party of engineers, to determine the point of junction between the two rivers, and establish the monuments on the boundary line, he remained several months among them, on _ terms of intimacy and friendship.* One afternoon while here, Major Heintzelman and myself made some experiments to ascertain the velocity _ of the Colorado below the junction. The result gave us.5¢ miles per hour. But it must be remembered * Since the above was written, Major Heintzelman has been com- pletely successful in reducing ‘the Yumas. He pressed them so hard that they at length came in and begged for peace, which was at once Sranted them, and a treaty made. They now occupy the rich bottom- lands near Fort Yuma, which they cultivate, raising wheat, corn, melons, hs, etc.; and the best feeling exists between them and the Ameri- 174 FORT YUMA that the river was then much swollen. When low, it flows at the rate of about two miles an hour. Itis then but four feet deep at the fording place at the Algodones, where we first saw it; and at such times wagons, mules, and cattle may easily cross. When the engineering parties crossed here in January, they swam their mules and were taken ‘over in boats by the Indians. By a stake planted below the junction, Major Heintzelman ascertained the rise of the river to have been thirteen feet and six inches, when at its highest point, which it attained on the 13th of June, while the Commission was here. Four miles below Fort Yuma are the remains of 4 fortification called Fort Defiance. This is the spot where we first encamped, and were unable to reach the water. It was an old ferrying place,eand the scene of a mas -sacre by the Yumas the year before our visit, the pal ticulars of which I will state. In 1849, when large numbers of people from the United States and the adjacent province of Sonora were emigrating to California, many came by the Gila and crossed the Colorado here. At this time, as there WS no garrison on the spot, nor any white settlers, the Yumas derived quite an advantage ftom aiding em . grants to cross, having by some means obtained a boat or scow for the purpose. A party of Americans, s¢& ing a prospect of a lucrative business by the establish- ment of a ferry, dispossessed the Indians of their boat, drove them from the river, and would not permit them to help emigrants across or otherwise have any thing to do with them. The leader in this affair was 4 Dr. Langdon, of Louisiana. The ferry was established at AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 175 the rocky spur before alluded to; upon which, directly on the bank of the river, they built a rude fort wherein they could defend themselves. This, in contempt for the natives whom they had dispossessed of their rights, they called Fort Defiance. The party which originally established the ferry was fitted out by J. P. Brodie, Esq., a gentleman living at Hermosillo, in Sonora, of whom I have before spoken: he advanced the money for the purpose, and retained an interest in it. While this gentleman had the direc- tion of affairs, no further offence was given to the In- dians, and emigrants were always treated well and fairly dealt with. Not long after, however, a man named _ Gallantin was employed by Dr. Langdon, or in some other way became interested in the ferry. He turned out to be a bad fellow, and was supposed to be a fugi- tive from justice. He treated the Indians most brutally, and practised all sorts of impositions upon the passing emigrants, charging about four dollars a head for every one who crossed the river. He also extorted large sums from the Sonorians when returning to their homes from the mines, when he found or believed they had any considerable amount of gold with them. When Dr. Langdon found out the character of Gal- lantin, he endeavored to get rid of him, but found him- self unable to do so. About this time Gallantin took occasion to visit San Diego; and there his party got into a fight, in which a soldier was killed. Gallantin - Was arrested and imprisoned, but made his escape back to the Colorado with a supply of liquor. The men having fallen asleep, either from the effects of liquor or of fatigue, the Yumas, who had watched their oppor- 176 FORT YUMA tunity, rushed upon them with their clubs, and massa cred every soul at the ferry, embracing some twelve or fifteen persons. ,Three men were at some distance in the wood cutting timber; these, seeing from the actions of the Indians that something was wrong, suc- ceededin concealing themselves, and made their escape by joining a party of Mexicans who soon after came along. A large sum of money, all that had been saved by Langdon and Gallantin (estimated at from fifteen to thirty thousand dollars), fell into the hands of the Indians ; and this was freely used by them in supply- ing their wants from the emigrants who afterwards passed. They knew little of the value of gold, and would sometimes give four or five doubloons for a0 , old worn-out blanket, or a, gold eagle for a tattered shirt. No sympathy was felt for the men who had thus lost their lives; but the event tended to encourage the Yumas in acts of violence, in.which many innocent and unoffending parties perished. I heard of one occa sion on which a party of emigrants crossed while the Yumas retained the ferry. The Indians showed friend- ship for them, and assisted in making their fires and in taking charge of their animals. The party cooked their meal, and sat down quietly to eat; for although numbers of the Yumas were about their fires and the camp, their presence caused no uneasiness, as they were unprovided with arms. But on a sudden, at® given signal, they each seized a billet of wood from the fire, and knocked out the brains of the Amer cans. The ferry is at present well conducted, and though AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. Be a the facilities for crossing are not as great as they might be, they are perhaps as great as the expenses of carry- ing it on will warrant. I paid one dollar for each man, _ two dollars for each mule and ox, ten dollars for each wagon, ten dollars for each wagon load, one dollar for each mule load, &c. The total expense for cross- ing the Commission and the escort, amounting to five hundred and four dollars.* Of the Indians who occupy the country near Fort Yuma, the largest and most important tribe are the Yumas. These people occupy both sides of the Colo- rado both above and below the junction with the Gila. But how far they extend to the north is not known; probably not less than a hundred miles. Of the tribes. to the north of them, very little is known. There has * In consequence of the great demand in California for sheep, fone numbers have been driven thither from New Mexico, as well as from Chi- huahua and Sonora, all of which cross the Colorado near Fort Yuma. «I spoke of the heaps of dried carcasses and skeletons which we saw at Carrizo Creek; but it seems that the desert is not the only difficulty which the owners have to contend with. During the previous winter, the Yumas took advantage of the temporary abandonment of the Fort by the troops, to molest the parties of passing emigrants, particularly when they could rob them of their mules, cattle, and sheep. The most flagrant case, was the loss of 4,217 sheep, belonging to Mr. Joseph White. He had succeeded in getting them over the Colorado in safety, and was preparing to cross the desert. But at this time the Indians began to press them hard, killing and stealing the fore? Ps add to misfortunes of the drovers, their could not be ; forced to travel during the day in consequence of the intense heat. The men, to save their lives, hastened on to the water, leaving the sheep until they could return. The Indians, who followed them close, took advan- . tage oo situation, and drove them off; and thus the whole flock VOL. 1.—12 178 FORT YUMA been, no communication with them either by travellers or by the government. The early missionaries who traversed that region have placed on their maps seve- ral tribes, whose very names have now disappeared. On the old maps there are found west of the Colorado the Genigueh,the Chemeguabas, the Jumbuicrariri, and the Timbabachi, tribes of whose existence in our day we know nothing. The missionaries who mention them, are correct in all their statements, as far as we are now able to judge, and it is therefore probable that there were small tribes bearing the above names. Father Kino, who was here in the year 1700, mentions the Quiquimas, Coanpas, Bajiopas, and Cutganes, while the distinguished philologist Hervas, in his ‘‘ Catalogo de las Lenguas,” names many others, the authority for. which, is the early missionaries. At Fort Yuma, we heard of a tribe called the Mohavi, who occupy the country watered by a river of the same name, which empties into the Colorado about one hundred and fifty miles above the fort. They are said to bea fine athletic people, exceedingly warlike, and superior to the other tribes on the river. On the eastern side, the same missionaries notice the Tehuas, Cosninas, and Mo- quis. A tribe of the first-named family lived in New Mexico. The Cosninas I presume to be the same as the Coch-nich-nos, whom Mr. Leroux met in his late jour ney down the Colorado, although, on account 0 their hostility, he had no intercourse with them. The Moquis are still known, being one of the semi-civilized tribes with which we have had some intercourse. This people cultivate the soil, raise numbers of sheep, live | in large villages, and manufacture a superior blanket AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 179 both of cotton and wool. The Yumas speak of the Hawalcos and Yampaos tribes, on the eastern bank of the river, who make blankets. The Mexicans also speak of a tribe called the Tontos, or fools, on the east- ern bank of the river; who are said to be allied to the Apaches. It is probable that, with the exception of the great tribes, they are known among each other by different names, which have some connection with the mountains or rivers near which they dwell, or with some peculiarity which distinguishes them from each other. Thus the Yumas are.also called Cuchans ; and, as I have before stated, the Diegenos, who derive their name from San Diego, are the Comeya of early times. It is also certain that many tribes which the mission- aries found in California and the northern parts of Mexico, are now extinct.* On the Gila, no tribes have any fixed habitation; nor are any lands irrigated and cultivated, until the district occupied by the Coco-Mari- copas and Pimos is reached, two hundred miles to the — east. The Yumas occasionally range up and down the Gila, but only on predatory excursions. They strictly belong to the Colorado near the junction with the Gila, . where they were found by the earliest explorers. Between the Gila and the Gulf, and near the latter, there is also found a tribe called the Cocopas. They | occasionally visit Fort Yuma, and profess to be at peac with the Americans. They are less numerous than the Yumas, with whom they are at war. Recently a party of the — were surprised by them, mig chet and * Of the existing and extinct tribes of Indians I shall seit ‘i length in my Essay on eee countries. 180 FORT YUMA many others killed, and the party completely routed. At the latest accounts the Yumas were preparing for a campaign against them; and as their numbers are much larger, it may result in the annihilation of the *Cocopas, who would not be the first tribe which the warlike Yumas have extinguished. When Lieutenant Whipple was at the junction of the Colorado and Gila rivers, in 1849, engaged in astronomical observations for the Boundary Commis- sion, he was constantly surrounded by the Yuma In- dians, and had therefore a good opportunity 10 observe their habits. He has permitted me to copy from his journal the following notices of them. When he reached the Colorado, he was met by Santiago, one of the chiefs, who conducted his party to their village, where they were surrounded by great numbers of the Indians. ‘The women are generally fat, and their dress consists of a fringe made of strips of bark, bound — round the hips and hanging loosely to the middle of the thighs. The men are large, muscular, and well, formed. Their countenances are pleasing, and seem lighted by intelligence. Their warriors wear the white breech ; and their hair hanging in plaits to the middle of their backs, is adorned with eagle’s feathers, and the rattle of a rattlesnake. They are exquisite horsemen, and carry their bow and lance with inimitable grace.” While the party remained at the lower crossing walt ing for a road to be cut, the Indians were very sociable, | carrying them grass, beans, melons, and squashes; for which, they received in return tobacco or money: They professed great friendship for the Americans, | and declared that they ‘‘had never stolen from the AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 181 emigrants, nor maltreated them in any way; but the © Indians higher up, and near the mouth of the Gila, they represented as being a desperate set of rascals.” Lieut. Whipple afterwards met the head: chief, Pablo, who wore a scarlet coat trimmed with gold lace, with epau- lettes of silver wire, and, to crown all, green goggles. His legs and feet were bare, but he did not allow that to detract from the dignity of his manner. At this time the Yumas had extensive fields of maize, and © patches of melons and squashes. When the party under Dr. Webb crossed the Colo- rado, in January, the good feelings of these Indians towards the Americans had changed. They had already murdered the party of Dr. Langdon and Gal- Janton, and had had difficulties with several parties of © emigrants. Dr. Webb and his companions, therefore, held but little intercourse with them. The Indians — ferried them across the river, taking the opportunity to drown a mule or two, which they afterwards secured and ate. At the same time Mr. Pratt took some sketches and portraits of them, and Dr. Webb obtained a com- plete vocabulary of their language. I have before stated that Fernando Alarchon dis- covered and entered the Colorado in the year 1542. The narrative of his remarkable voyage at this early period shows that the zeal for adventure and discovery — Was quite as great at that period as now. He states that he went up the river eighty-five leagues, which is quite probable ; when his further progress was arrest¢ by lofty mountains, through which the river ran, Where it was impossible to draw their boats. This Was unquestionably the ort cafion, ssa the moun- 182 ‘FORT YUMA ' tains cross the river, and through which it has worked for itself a deep channel. This cafion is known to all the trappers, and is said to extend from two to three hundred miles, throughout which distance it is only passable in two or three places. As he progressed, _Alarchon made diligent inquiries about the country and people. In reply he was told that the river ran much further up into the land than he had yet come, but his informers did not know its head, as it was still very far in the interior. He learned also that many other streams fell into it. As far as he went, he found the natives cultivating maize. They brought him cakes of maize and loaves of mezquique.* Neither wheat not beans were known to them. To ascertain this fact, our traveller took with him these articles, which he showed the Indians, and at which “ they expressed much wonder.” He found cotton growing, but nowhere saw any fabrics made of it; whence he naturally was led to believe that they knew not the art of spinning and weaving. The natives told him that there were twenty-three different languages spoken along the river. , It is a singular fact, that although Francisco de Ulloa explored the Gulf of California in 1539, and Alarchon in 1542, at which time the latter discovered and passed up the Colorado, the fact that California had been ascertained to be a peninsula came to be forgot ten, and it was regarded as an island until some time *T imagine the mezquique to be flour made of the mezquit bea” which is now used by the California Indians, as well as by the Coco-Me ricopas and Pimos of the Gila. AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 183 between the years 1698 and 1701. Thisrediscovery was made by Fathers Kino and Sedlemayer, two of the ear- liest and most distinguished of the Jesuit missionaries, who in consequence were able to open a communication by land with the missions of Lower California, which had already been established.* Kino, next to Alarchon, followed up the Colorado beyond its confluence with the Gila; and was the first to preach the Gospel among the Indians, who were then very numerous in this region. He made five separate journeys to the Gila and Colorado Rivers between the years 1694 and 1706 ; and on one occasion intended to cross over to Monterey, in Upper California, from which he was only prevented by an accident. He established a mission near the mouth of the Colorado and one at the mouth of the Gila. The former did not last many years. The latter was in existence as late as 1776, when Fathers Pedro Font and Garces came with a large party from Sonora to replenish the missions of California, but chiefly that at Monterey.+ Fathers Garces and Ki- rarch remained at the Colorado, and Font proceeded to the coast. Garces afterwards made extensive journeys * This question seems to have awakened much interest among the geographers of the period. Captain Mange accompanied Father Kino in the j journey referred to, and his letter announcing the discovery, with great detail, is given in Alegro’s Hist. de la Comp. de Jesus en Nueva Espana, Ill. t I obtained in Monterey, by the kindness of Dr. A. Randall, a ‘copy of the manuscript journal of Father Pedro Font, together with the map which illustrates both the journeys of Font and Garces. The existence of this said was not before known, and it may be regarded as of great value, 184 FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. ‘up the Colorado, and established a mission among the Moquis. He was soon after killed by the Padtinalhy and he Colorado Mission gh ne Nore.—I have several times spoken of the state of the thermometer. At all times it was placed beneath the shade of a tree, and hanging against it. In no case was it hung in the tent, where the heat was much greater. Our barometers had all been broken before reaching the Colorado, except mine, an aneroid, which I gave to Lieutenant Whipple, in order that his records might be kept complete. So with my ther- mometer. It was lost, and I was afterwards obliged to refer to Lieute- nant Whipple’s. Before leaving Fort Yuma, Dr. J. L. Milhau, surgeon of the post, at my request, kindly furnished me with a copy of the me teorological register kept at the Fort for the month previous to my de- parture, from which I have made the annexed extract: pie oF THE THERMomETER (Fahrenheit) at Fort Yuma, at the junetion the Colorado and Gila Rivers, from May 20th to June 16th. Lat. 32°, 42/, 09, Long. W. from Greenwich, 117°, 37/, 09”, Sun | Nine, Three,| Nine | Dail . Sun | Nine, |Three,| Nine, | Daily : 1852. rise. | A.M. | P.M. | P.M. rates 4 1852, rise. | a.m. | P. af. | P. M- ee May 20....| 60 | 74 | 88 | 78 | 79 \I3une 6s | 86 | 9s | 82 | & Mee 641 78 | 8 fre lem [le oaitll| 71 ez | 8) Se Se * 9:77} 6 | 73 | 82 | 70 | 74 |} « 76 | 94 | 102 | 88 | 99 « 93...., 6 | 76 | 92 | 90 | 73 || « 76 | 94 | 106 | 8 } 2 « 94...) 68 | g2 | 96 | 88 | a || « 72222] 74 | 92 | 104 | 8 | 8 « %....| 72 | 8 | 92 | 92° | 99 || « 76 | 9 | 102 | 2 | 9 “« 2%6....| 74 | 87 | 104 | 88 | 89 |] « 91:2. 7a] 94 | 10a | 9 | 3 ei...) 72] OL | los | 94 | 83 {| « 10.5::] 79 | of | 105 | 8 | B “ 93....| 78 | 93 | 104 | 93 | or || « ancti2| 74 | 92 | 106 | 9 | % « 90.021] 78 | 92 | 101 | 90 | of |] « 12° 74 | 90 | 104 | 8 | 8 “ 30...) 78 | 9 | 104 | 68 | oi || « i3:7::] 74 | 86 | 102 | & | & -# 31....| 74 | 90 | 100 | a2 | a7 || « 14 72 | 32 | @ | 4 | & June Li.) 76 | 88 | 104 1 2 | 90 rage | ee 72 | | 98 | & | & 2....1 74 | 88 | 102 | 9 | aa || « 16777} 72 | 88 | 98 | OL Tn this case chs thermometer was suspended beneath a thick gos of bushes, which effectually shut out the sun at all times, while was a free circulation of air around. The Fort stands on an satel rock about eighty feet above the plain. FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 185 CHAPTER XXIX. FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. Leave Fort Yuma—Absence of grass along the Gila—Petahaya or Giant Cereus—Gila trout—Meet the surveying party—Inscribed rocks—Ex- cessive heat—Night marches—Wagons found—How caches are made— Particulars of the murder of Mr. Oatman and his wife—Basin of the Gila—More sculptured rocks—Cross the Jornada—Great bend of the river—Another desert—Toilsome march—Reach the Coco-Maricopa Villages, ; June 17th. Major Heintzelman told me this morning that, from the peculiar barking of the dogs during the night, he believed the Indians had been near the fort. Soon after one of the herdsmen came in, and reported that he had discovered many Indian foot-prints around the base of the hill. The ferrymen, who slept near, were aroused at the same time, and saw from the hill two fires in opposite directions, two or three miles distant, near the banks of the Colorado. They were doubtless intended for signals. A party of soldiers Was sent out to reconnoitre in the bottom around the ~ fort; and subsequently a detachment of fifteen, under command of Lieutenant Hendershott, was dispatched On a scout. _ Our wagons now being completed and every thing 1m yeadiness, we bade farewell to our excellent friends, 186 FORT YUMA and at four o’clock, p. m., crossed the river to our camp on the opposite shore, accompanied by Major Heintz- elman. The mercury at noon to-day stood at 100° Fahrenheit. June 18th. We took our departure at five o’clock in the morning. As Lieutenant Whipple was actively employed in completing the survey of the Gila, my own party was reduced to Dr. Webb, Messrs. G. Thur- ber, H. C. Pratt, and M. Seaton, which last was return- ing to rejoin his party on the Rio Grande. We had also, of course, the necessary attendants in servants, cooks, arrieros, and herders; and were accompanied by Lieutenant Paige, with fifteen soldiers. Lieutenant Whipple retained the remaining men of Colonel Craig’s command, and twelve of those furnished by Major Heintzelman. Our provisions, baggage, and camp equipage were carried partly in wagons and partly on pack-mules. We took the travelled road, which we followed for two or three hours along the bottom-land on the south bank of the Gila, and then turned off and fol- lowed the trail of Lieutenant Whipple, which led to the river. After pursuing this route a couple of miles, we got entangled in so dense an undergrowth, inter spersed with little hillocks and dead trees, that our progress was completely stopped. Fearing that our wagons would be broken if we proceeded, wé turned back and attempted to regain the road; but in this direction the same impediments presented themselves. Being thus brought to a stand, I sent men out to find _ the river, as we had already been so long tugging through the bottom that our mules showed mich TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 187 weariness. The Gila was discovered within half a mile ; and after doubling the teams to cross a bed of loose sand, we succeeded in reaching it, and there we encamped. No grass was found; but the mules ate with avidity the cane which grew on the river’s banks. Distance travelled, fifteen miles. June 19th. Left camp at six o'clock; and after pro- ceeding through loose sand and arroyos, and cutting our way through the jungle which grew near the stream, we reached the road, and soon after a spur of the mountain ridge around which the river ran. In going down a short and steep hill, the king-bolt of one of the wagons broke, in consequence of which we were compelled to unload it, which detained us about an hour. Continuing our journey, we struck the Gila at one o’olock; where, to our agreeable surprise, we found a small patch of coarse grass, the first we had seen, excepting a tuft here and there on the desert, since leaving San Felipe. For the fifteen days since we left that place our animals had lived almost exclu- sively upon the mezquit bean, and twigs of willow, cotton-wood, and mezquit bushes. We encamped here, having come twelve miles. , The bottom here does not exceed a quarter of a mile in width, owing to the proximity of the moun- tains on each side of the river. The vegetation con- sists of willow and mezquit. We found that Lieutenant Whipple had had a station near us, and had moved forward but an hour before our arrival. June 20th. Resumed our journey at half-past five mm the morning, over a sandy road, and soon after left the bottom and ascended to the table-land, here ele- 188 FORT YUMA vated about forty feet above it. The vegetation con- sisted of mezquit and palo verde. After journeying about six miles, we overtook Lieu- tenant Whipple with the surveying party, and agreed to encamp together six miles further ahead. We pro- ceeded to the point fixed on, which we reached at 11 o’clock and pitched our tents, having made but twelve miles. The bottom-land continued narrow, the desert approaching quite near on both sides of the river. There was no grass; but with cane and mezquit, our mules did very well. On the northern side of the river, arose a mountain chain about twelve miles distant, presenting a con tinuation of fantastic summits, among which were three resembling the tops of Hindu pagodas. I took a sketch of these singular mountains; although at sucha dis- tance, but little more than the outlines could be dis- cerned. ‘To-day, for the first time since leaving Fort Yuma, we again encountered our friend the petahaya, or Giant Cereus, which we had met with the preceding Septem ber in Sonora; and much to our delight, we foundit in bloom. The fruit, too, appeared in various stages of perfection. As no full and correct description has y et been given to the world of this extraordinary produc: tion of the vegetable kingdom, and as I had the advan tage of seeing it at different periods of the year, in flowe as well as in fruit, I shall endeavor to give a popwa account of it. The buds, flowers, fruit, seed, &c., were collected by Mr. George Thurber, Botanist to the Co™ mission ; and by him a scientific description of it will be prepared, with the aid of a distinguished botanist | Hn ¥ | i) } i vol. ii, 188, I < 4 _ o ia a is 3 2 a — na jen a 3 iS z Zi Ps, iad Zi 5 3} Z 4 A S 3 a — TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 189 who has paid particular attention to the cactacea of North America. Petahaya. This curious plant is found on the high table-lands on either side of the Gila, and in various parts of the State of Sonora, growing often in the crevices of rocks, and in other situations where it would seem difficult for any vegetable production to find sustenance. The orms it assumes are various; sometimes rising like a simple fluted column, although more frequently it is furnished with several branches, which, after leaving the main trunk, turn gracefully upward and rise paral- 190 FORT YUMA lel with it. Sometimes the branches are singularly contorted ; but usually, their disposition is symmetri- cal, and the appearance of the whole plant has been, not inaptly, compared to that of a giant candelabram. The stem is from one foot to two feet six inches in diameter, usually smaller near the base, and from twen- ty to fifty feet in height. This immense column is admirably strengthened by a circle of ribs of strong and elastic wood, which are imbedded in the cellular mass of the plant, several inches within the circumference, and extend to the roots. This Woody portion remains after the fleshy substance of the plant decays, looking like a huge skeleton. The stem is marked with longi- tudinal furrows, which are shallow towards the ground, and deeper and more numerous towards the summit; and above the ribs it is thickly set with clusters of spines or thorns. Of these there are six large an numerous small ones, in each cluster. As the plant increases in age, the larger spines fall off, leaving 4 TY of smaller ones, which lie close to the stem. Most travellers who have noticed this cereus, bave not been fortunate enough to see the fruit and flower, but have derived their accounts of them from the In- dians. On our passage across the country in Septem ber, October, November, and December, we saw the tree; and on our return in June and July, we had the satisfaction of beholding the fruit in perfection, and occasional specimens of the flower. The plant proba bly blooms late in May, or early in June ; and the fruit is matured in July and August. The flowers are borne on the summits of the branches, are three inches 12 diameter, and about the same in length. The pe TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 191 are stiff and curling, and of a cream-white color. The stamens are yellow and very numerous. The fruit is about the size and shape of an egg; sometimes rather longer than the true egg shape, having a few small scales, without spines. The color of the fruit is green tinged with red, when fully ripe. It consists of an outer coat or skin filled with a red pulp, inclosing numerous small, black, smooth seeds. The fruit, when mature, bursts at the top and exposes the pulp, which at this time is rather mawkish to the taste; but a few days’ exposure to the sun dries it to about one third its original bulk, and the whole mass drops out of the skin. In this state it has the consistency of the pulp of a dried fig; and the saccharine matter being concen- trated by drying, it somewhat resembles that fruit in taste. The Pimo and other Indians, collect the pulp and roll it into balls; in which state it probably keeps the whole year, as it was offered to our party which passed through in January. They also boil the pulp in water, and evaporate it to the consistence of molas- Ses; after which, it is preserved in earthen jars.* ie It has been supposed that the petahaya was first made known by Major Emory in his Notes of a Military Reconnoisance, dc. in 1847: _ but I shall show that the plant is by no means new, and that it has been noticed by many of the earlier travellers in the region where it is found. _ An describing the plants of California, Venegas says, “The principal * the petahaya, the fruit of which forms the great harvest of the poor inhabitants here. This tree is not known in Europe, and differs from all other trees in the world: its branches are fluted and rise vertically from the stem, so as to form a very beautiful top; they are without leaves, the fruit growing to the boughs ; the pulp resembles that of a fig, Only more soft and luscious. In some it is white, in some red, and in others yellow, but always of an exquisite taste; some again are wholly 192 FORT YUMA A number of the fish called by Major Emory the “Gila trout” were caught near our camp by Mr. Pratt with a hook and line. They proved very pala table, where fresh fish is such a rarity ; but the flesh is quite soft, owing to the warmth of the water, and would scarcely be tolerated on the tables of the Atlan- tic coast. ‘Ata little distance,” says Major E., “ you will imagine the fish covered with delicate scales; but, on a closer examination, you will find that they sweet, others of a grateful acid. And as the petahaya is very juicy, it is chiefly found in dry soil."—Watural and Civil History of Califor- nia, London, 1759. Vol. I. p. 42. Father Salva Tierra, one of the most laborious of the California missionaries, and who resided in that country in 1697, speaks of the , festivities among the Indians on the occasion of gathering the petahaya. “The three petahaya months,” he says, “ resemble the carnival in some parts of Europe, when the men are ina great measure stupefied or mad. The natives here, also, throw aside what little reason they have, giving themselves up to feastings, dancings, entertainments of the neighboring rancherias, buffooneries, and comedies, such as they are ; and in these whole nights are spent to the high diversion of the audience.”— Vl. p- 82. Alcedo has the following article respecting it: “Pita Haya (Cactus Pitahaya). Arbol grande y muy singular ; porque sus ramas son al modo de cirios histriados, que salien derechos desde su tronco acia lo alto, no llevan hoja alguna, y en la misma rama nace pagada Ja fruta, que tiene la corteza lena de espinas, y se parece algo a los higos de tuna, aunque la carne es mas blanca y delicada ; unas la tienen roxa y otras amarilla distinguiendose tambien en dulces y agridulces ; pero muy sabrosas. Monardes C da el nombre de Car- din y abunda en el Jardin Botanico de esta Corte.—Dicetionario Geo grafico Historico, Tomo V. Appendix, p. 152. Madrid, 1789. On referring to Monardes, I find his description does not corres nd to the Petahaya, whence it is evident he had reference to something else. But Hérnandi, another Spanish botanist, has a very full descriptto? TO THE COCO-MARICOPA: VILLAGES. + 193 are only the dmpression of scales.” I cannot imagine what led to this mistake on the part of the Major; fora mistake it certainly is. Scales were as plainly seen on all we caught as upon any fish; and I found no diffi- culty in taking them off with my finger-nails from the smallest specimens. We caught them at different times from eight to eighteen inches in length.: After coming into camp to-day, I determined to push on with my party to the villages of the Pimo of what he calls the Petahaya Tepexicensis, which is undoubtedly the _ plant in question—See Historia Plantarum Nove Hispanie.—Vol. | Pe p. 170. Vol. IIL p. 94. Matriti, Anno mpccixxx. Baron Humboldt says, “ At the foot of the mountains of California, * We discover only sand, or a stony stratum, on which cylindrical cacti (organos del tunal) shoot up to extraordinary heights.”—Polit. Hssay on New Spain, Vol. Il. p. 828. This name is probably derived, first, from the flutings of the stem, which resemble the pipes of an organ and second, from the resemblance which the fruit has in taste to the tunal, or Indian fig, Pattie, an Indian trader and trapper, whospent six years (from 1824 to 1829) in the interior parts of the continent, during which period he passed several times up and down the Gila, says, “ A species of tree, which Thad never seen before, here arrested my attention. It grows to the height of forty or fifty feet. The top is cone-shaped, and almost without foliage. The bark resembles that of the prickly pear ; and the body is covered with thorns, I have seen some three feet in diameter at the root, and throwing up twelve distinct shafts.”—Personal Ne arrative y Siz Years Journeyings, &e. p. 68. ae Again, this plant is mentioned by Lieut. Hardy, who visted Eee tain the years 1825-28. He speaks of a stick which was used for “detaching the fruit from the tops of the petahaya, a plant of the Leon drical cactus species, growing from eight to twenty feet in height.” And m another place, he says, * Our route lay over a plain, 2 bya lanee ‘Mense quantities of the petahaya were growing.”— Travels in the Inte- ror of Mexico, p. 212, eae Fe VOL, 1L—13 194 - FORT YUMA Indians. There seemed to be no necessity of keeping with the engineers, whose progress was, and would continue to be, slow; besides which their duties com- pelled them to follow all the sinuosities of the river, © and keep by its bank. ‘This not only increased the distance, but obliged the parties sometimes to cut- passages through the bushes for the wagons and pack- mules, a task attended with much labor, besides the risk of breaking down. Our animals were daily grow- ing weaker for the want of grass; the weather was excessively hot, the mercury ranging every day above 100° in the most shady places we could find; and we were without vegetables of any sort,—a depri- vation which already began to show its effects upon the men. For these reasons, I deemed it best for the health of the party and the preservation of the ani- mals to proceed in advance to the Pimo villages, where. an abundance of grass and vegetables could be pro cured. I accordingly made a division of our pro visions with Lieutenant Whipple and his party, and left with him such an escort as he considered necessary for his protection. June 21st. The road to-day was sandy, and conse quently heavy, until.we reached the table-land. The vegetation continued as before; mezquit, palo verde, and larrea prevailing, and the great cereus occurring with still greater frequency. At one o’clock we struck the river where it passes within two hundred feet of a bold dark-colored bluff, the termination of @ short mountain range, which here is about six hundred feet high, and near which we encamped. Estimated dis tance travelled, seventeen miles. As the weather con: TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 195 tinued hot, we endeavored, by making very early starts, to terminate our day’s journeys by noon. A number of fish were brought in to-day by ie . Mexicans resembling the buffalo-fish of the Mississippi. They drove them into a small nook in a laguna near by, and then rushed into the water and killed them with poles. I ate of them at dinner, but found them soft and unpalatable. | Towards evening, when the sun began to lose its force, I took my sketch-book and went to the base of the bluff, where I had noticed as we passed a number of inscribed rocks. I found hundreds of these bould- ers covered with rude figures of men, animals, and other objects of grotesque forms, all pecked in with a sharp instrument. Many of them, however, were so much defaced by long exposure to the weather, and by subsequent markings, that it was impossible to make them out. Among these rocks I found several which contained sculptures on the lower side, in such a posi- tion that it would be impossible to cut them where they then lay. Some of them weighed many tons, and would have required immense labor to place them there, and that too without an apparent object. The natural inference was, that they had fallen down from the summit of the mountain after the sculptures were made on them. A few only seemed recent; 7 _ others bore the marks of great antiquity. Like most of the rude Indian sculptures or ae ings which I have seen, I do not think these possess any historic value, as many suppose. Where an inge- nious Indian, for the want of other employment, cuts a nude figure of a man or an animal on a rock in some 196 ae FORT YUMA prominent place which his people make it a practice - to resort to, others, with the example before them, - endeavor to compete with their brother artist, and show their skill by similar peckings. One draws an animal such as he sees; another makes one according to his own fancy; and a third: amuses himself with devising grotesque or unmeaning figures of other sorts. _ Hence we find these sculptured rocks in large num- bers in prominent places.. We all had the luxury of a bath here; and though the water was quite warm, we found it very refreshing. We made a practice of bathing wherever we could find water, believing it ® better preservative of health than any thing else. June 22d. The heat had been so oppressive both to the men and animals since leaving Fort Yuma, that -Idetermined to make our marches very early in the morning, or at night. The cooks were accordingly roused this morning at three o'clock, which enabled us to get our breakfast and move off by half-past four. The thermometer at sunrise stood at 69°, the lowest we had seen it since leaving the coast; and after the constant heats we had had, this temperature was Wl comfortably cool. We ascended the plateau to cut off a bend of the river; and after keeping on it for four or five miles, We again desended into the bottom, cutting away @ bank in order to reach it. The plateau was as dreary and desolate as before, stretching away as far as the eye could reach to the south in one vast plain, interripted_ at intervals of ten or twenty miles with isolated moul- tains rising abruptly from it The road now became better, as it wound through a dense thic No SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVER GILA. yy Wy Mp, : SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVER GILA. NO 2. /j Y | 8 oO N A. IL G R E Vv. RI KS, OC Ri D E. R U. PT L U 8C Ee ce Te ee Se ee re ee 7 a TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. ) lo and mezquit, where we could not see our way ten yards ahead; an admirable place for an ambuscade, although we had no fear of any thing of the kind. - It was an agreeable change from the utter barrenness and parching heat of the table-land to find ourselves now in a thick wood. After passing the northern ter- mination of “ Big Horn” Mountain, we completed our _day’s march, and encamped at eleven o’clock in a thicket of willows near the river. Mr, Leroux, who was in advance, soon after rode into camp with a fine black-tailed deer thrown across his mule, which he had just killed, and which proved delicious eating. We occasionally saw these deer, as well as antelopes, as we passed along; but our numbers and the white- topped wagons alarmed them. Hence it was only by ‘leaving the party and going in advance that our hunters could hope for success. During the day we passed two abandoned wagons in good condition, save the injury they had received from long exposure to the sun. From one of them we helped ourselves to a king-bolt, to replace the one we had broken a few days patie: ; From the large quantity of iron strewed about, with ~ fragments of vehicles, tin kettles, and camp equipage, we were evidently at a place where wagons had been broken up and burned. The extent of these traces ee showed that it was probably the place where ees Kearney or Colonel Cooke encamped i in’ 1847. We had discovered their camps in several instances, and. many years must elapse before these signs will be ~ obliterated. Distance travelled to-day, eighteen miles. The mountains here are as iecauial and barren as 198 : FORT YUMA it is possible to conceive. Not a tree or a shrub could be seen on them, while their bold and abrupt sides are furrowed with huge chasms and gorges. Between the base of the mountains and the bottom-land are low gravelly hills covered with the Spanish bayonet, agave, and various kinds of cacti. Our mules found a supply of cane on the margin of the river, with which, and twigs of willow, they made out to keep up their strength. The Gila here widens. considerably, and 1s proportionably shallow and filled with sand-bars. June 23d. A violent wind arose last night, which made it necessary to put out guys to our tents to pre vent their’ blowing down. A great change in the atmosphere took place at the same time, so that when I awoke, I found perspiration checked, and was sulfer- _ ing from a severe pain in the head. Others were simi- ~ larly affected. Left camp at five, 4. ™., and soon after ascended the table-land, over which we travelled nine miles, the river as before making a large bend to the north. We could trace its course fom the bright green line _of cotton-woods and willows, as it wound away thr ough the desert. Passed the grave of an emigrant by the road side, his name being written with a pencil on 4 strip of board and attached to a tree. Struck the river for a moment, and again took to the table- land, which we followed for Bout nine miles. We descend- ed where the valley seemed to expand to the width of nearly three miles, above one half of which was sm ickly wooded with cotton-wood, mezquit, and willow. Here we encamped, on the spot where parties had been before Near by was a lagoon, which had the appeal i pala = TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. — 199 -ance of having been recently filled with water. It was now dry, except in a few holes which had been ~ dug to obtain it. We found the water in these holes quite brackish, and unfit to drink; consequently we ~ were obliged to send our animals bout a mile and a E half phecuph the wood to the river, from which we also brought water for our own use. So thick was the wood, that it was found impracticable to force our — wagons through. ‘This was the most beautiful spot we bia. encamped in since leaving the little valley of San Isabel, in California. We pitched no tents, finding a better. and more agreeable protection in the and overhanging willows, the leaves of which ext to the ground. Beneath these bushes we were wel sheltered from the sun, and passed the most comfort- able day we had yet experienced along the parched regions of the Gila. Distance travelled, eighteen miles. co We opened a cache* in the bank here, in which Dr. Webb had buried a quantity of things, when the party under his chargé passed down the Gila in Decem- | ber last. Every thing was found safe and in good ‘condition. The wolves had smelled something below” ' the surface, although there were no provisions ; and had dug up and exposed a corner of the ' which the articles were enveloped. Had eit. lers or Indians been here Eines they ¥ we * Cache. (French). A = or hole i in n the : ; lers bury their provisions or 200 ~ FORT YUMA ried the inyestigation further. A great deal of proper- ty has thus been buried by parties crossing to Cali- fornia, in the hope that they or their friends might at ‘some future time recover it; although it is safe to say that of every hundred caches so made, not five are ever opened afterwards. if In making a cache, it is best to select a spot within fifty feet of a tree, rock, or other prominent object, from which the distance can be measured and the bear- ‘ings taken. A hole is then dug to such depth as may be required to bury the intended articles, which areto be protected by cloths or boards when necessary. _ When the hole has been covered over, the earth or sand that remains is scattered about or removed, 80 as ~ to leave no indications of what has been done. It is well to build the camp-fire immediately over it, as that will account for the disturbance of the ground, and the foot prints about the spot. It is never prudent to make a cache beneath a tree, or in a spot where the party can be watched by Indians or others lying ™ ambush. When Fort Yuma was abandoned a few months before our arrival there, as it was expected to be re-occupied, many articles which the garrison did not wish to remove were thus hidden. But on the return, they found that their place of concealment had been discovered by the Yumas, and every thing carried off. June 24th. As the soldiers, being all on foot, wer? greatly fatigued by their yesterday’s march, I deter- mined to allow them until evening to rest, and endea vor to make a march in the night. There was here 4 little salt grass and cane about the lagoon, with willow oS TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. - 201 bushes for the animals; and for ourselves, every luxury that a camp life affords. Accordingly, as the sun began to throw its long __ shadows across the hills, and when about half an hour of daylight remained, we moved from camp. The road was pretty good and less sandy than before. We did not now take the table-land, but kept on a lower ter- race, which seemed to lead along the spur of a dark rocky hill, until we were suddenly brought to a stand. The river had washed away the terrace, and left no passage. We were therefore obliged to retrace our steps a short distance, and pass over the hills, which were exceedingly. rocky, and overgrown with cacte. Not being able to discern the smaller ones among the rocks, the mules were several times stopped by coming in contact with their thorns. From one poor creature the blood flowed as though he had been purposely bled; many of the men, too, had cause to remember this night’s march among the cacti. At two o'clock, the moon, which until then had given us a faint light, went down, when we were compelled to stop, as it was impossible to find our way through the light and deep sand in which we then were. The. packs were accord- ingly removed from the mules, although the saddles were left on; and the wagon-mules were tied to the © mezquit bushes near. We then lay down on the bare sand just where we were, and, rolling our blankets around us, for it was quite cool, slept soundly until daylight. . June 25th. With the break of day we were again off, having no mules fo catch, no tents to strike, or breakfast to get. In an hour anda half we struck a 202 FORT YUMA sluice of the. river, where we encamped. There was no appearance of grass here; but with plenty of wil - lows and cotton-wood, the animals seemed content. As - we were all fatigued from our night’s journey, we threw ourselves on the. sand, and, after a couple of hours’ sleep, awoke quite refreshed, and ready for our coffee and breakfast. All about us we found signs that a large encamp- ment of Americans had been here, with indications of © a cache. These were the tires of two wheels straight- ened and inserted so deeply in the ground that they could not be withdrawn. They were probably land marks, from which bearings had been taken and dis- tances measured. There had evidently been a great breaking up of wagons and destruction of property here. The day was very hot, and rendered more oppressive by the bare sand around us. The bottom d was broad, ‘and but partially wooded. Nearus was a sluice, which had been filled when the river was high, or it may have heen a bend of the river through which the water had flowed. We did not see the river. Just before sunset, we resumed our journey, continu- ing a few miles along the river bottom where the road was good. We then ascended about one hundred and twenty feet to a plateau, up a very steep and rocky way, where I much feared our wagons would be crush- ed; but by the soldiers taking hold, and every man pushing and pulling, we at length surmounted the hill. The road was now hard and smooth, until we came ' an arroyo, which we had to descend, and then cross over steep and rocky hills, which again endangered the wagons. On reaching the crest of the table-land, TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. ° 203 where we descended to the second terrace or bottom, we saw numerous fragments of trunks, boxes, clothing, wagons, with human bones and skulls, showing that it had been the scene of sorhe terrible disaster. A soldier of the escort from Fort Yuma revealed to us the mystery. In March of last year (1851) a party of emigrants, in crossing the continent, stopped at the Pimo villages. Among them was a Mr. Oatman and his family, con- _ __ sisting of his wife, two daughters from 12 to 15 years _. of age, anda son of 12 years. Mr. O. had with him one or more wagons, and a variety of merchandise; and, contrary to the advice of his, friends, he set off from the village in advance, the rest of the party not being ready to accompany him. Some days after, his little son found his way back to the Pimo Indians, a distance of some seventy miles, having crossed a de- sert of forty-five miles without water on his way. He reported that the party had been attacked by In- dians, his father and mother killed, and his sisters car- Tied off. He himself had been badly beaten by the Savages and left for dead. After lying some time, he revived; when he saw the mangled bodies of his pa- rents before him, his sisters gone, and the wagon plun- dered of its contents. The party soon after set out On their journey, accompanied by the lad and some Maricopa Indians. On arriving at the scene of the disaster, they covered the remains of Mr. Oatman and his wife with stones (for it was impossible to dig a grave), and then continued their journey to Fort Yu- ma, Where they informed Major Heintzelman of the occurrence, | . The Major immediately despatched a party of sol: 204 FORT YUMA diers with provisions for those still behind, and with orders ‘to scour the country, and endeavor, if possible, to recover the missing girls. But they saw no Indians, . nor has it yet been ascertained by what tribe the out- rage was committed. We reached the valley again at 11 p. m., when we stopped for the remainder of the night, and lay down on the sand to get a few hours sleep. The air was so dry and hot, that tents were unnecessary. June 26th, Finding no grass, cane, or bushes near | us on which the animals could feed, we moved off, soon after 4 o'clock, with the break of day. Our route now. lay across’a bed of sand so light that the wheels sank deep, rendering it necesary to double one of the teams before we could pass it. Even with the aid of this device, it was slow work. It now became necessary to cross the Gila, as the plateau rose abruptly from the margin of the river, not leaving a passage wide enough fora mule. Our route had hitherto been wholly on the south side since leaving the Colorado. Ido not think the north side would present as good a road ; besides which, it would be necessary, if the north bank should be followed, to cross the Gila at its mouth, a the Colorado cannot be forded above the junction. The river where we crossed was about three feet deep in the channel. After getting over, we had to traverse another half mile of deep sand, and then recross, to get on the southern bank once more. At the second crossing my wagon sank so deep ina quick- sand, that the mules, after struggling in vain to pull it out, broke the traces and left me alone in the middle of the stream. It was necessary to attach four mules TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 205 to it before it could be drawn out. We now con- tinued another half mile near the base of a black-look- ing rocky bluff without a tree to shade us. I thought it best to stop here, as we could not reach the next bend in the river before the sun would be too far up to travel. The bottom-land, or valley, which is visible Basin of the Gila. from the summit of this bluff for twenty miles, is alto- gether sand, with a few clumps of willows on the mar- gin of the river. Not an acre of arable land is visible. The bluff, which is but the termination of the plateau or desert, rises about one hundred and twenty feet above the bed of the stream. The river from here is quite open on the north and west, so that the moun- 206 _ FORT YUMA tains on the Colorado which we saw at Fort Yuma were distinctly visible. In order to examine some sculptured rocks of which I had heard, I left camp at 5 o’clock p. m. accompanied ° by Doctor Webb, in advance of the train. After cross- ing a plain for about five miles, we reached the object of our search, which consisted of a pile of large boul- ders, heaped up some forty or fifty feet above the plain, and standing entirely alone. Such of these rocks as present’ smooth sides are covered with sculptures, rudely pecked in, of animals and men, as well as 0 various figures, apparently without meaning. There are hundreds of.them so ornamented, showing that the place has long been ‘the resort of the Indians for this purpose; for there seems to be nothing else to attract them here. Many of the inscriptions, like those before described, bear the stamp of great age, others having been made over them repeatedly, rendering it impos- sible to trace out either the early or the later mark- ings. I selected thirteen, of which I*made copies. By this time the shades of night were falling about: us; and the train having already passed, it was necessary to hasten on to overtake it. I regretted that I could not spend the day in this interesting locality, in order to copy more of the sculptures, as well as to make @ closer examination of the many recesses among the - rocks. I do not attempt any explanation of these rude _ figures, but must leave the reader to exercise his own _ ingenuity in finding out their meaning, if any. Leaving this place we entered an arroyo of graveli and after following it for two or three miles, We ascended a very difficult and rocky hill to the plateau. eo BN <—— <= NO RIVER GILA, ? SCULPTURED ROCKS \\ \\ AX A IIIIAHNN NEN WES \\ QQ Xi : | i . : : = = i : | - 3 ae SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVER @ILa. NO, 5. ¥ a. NR ee ee ee ee pee at ae SSS SS — SSS =—— = SS LSS SSS 4 i : F i ‘ 4 YY WW. SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVER GILA. NO 6. TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 207 _ Aspur or projection of this hill had to be crossed ; and then, by an easy slope, we again descended to a lower terrace. After marching about eighteen miles, by the bright light of the moon, we stopped the train and bivouacked in the sand till morning, without turning out the mules. June 28th. We rested comfortably on our sandy beds, and resuming our march before five o'clock this morning, reached a bend in the river four miles dis- tant. As the soldiers had had a tedious march during the night, and evinced much fatigue, I concluded to remain here during the day to give them rest. Our camp was in a very dense ‘thicket of willows and cotton-woods near the river’s bank, into which we cut our way with axes. Here we had an admirable retreat, whose recesses the rays of the sun could not penetrate; and we passed the day with some degree of comfort. The Gila rippled close by; and a deep hole being near us which we thought might have some - attractions for trout, should any stray this way, we rigged our lines, and the experiment was rewarded with several fine fish. | In the night we were aroused by the firing of a gun. Every one sprang from his bed, believing an enemy near; but it proved to be an accident. One ~ of the Seaican arrieros, in attempting to pull his rifle — out from a pile of saddles with the muzzle towards him, having caught the trigger and discharged it. The stupid fallow narrowly escaped with his le; for the ball passed through his hand. Soon after five o'clock, Pp. M., we resumed our jour- hey ; and after a march of eight miles across a bend, 208 FORT YUMA we again struck the river near a point where our sur.” veying parties had had a station, and had remained several days. There we found an abundance of mez quit and willows, but no appearance of grass. Near us was a sluice, which a year before was the main branch of the river, the stream having since found another channel. We bivouacked at this place, doubtful whe- ther we should find as good feed for the mules by proceeding further, the mezquit beans being now 1 the best state for the animals. June 29th. Before the sun had risen we were again on our way, intending to stop at the last water- ing place, five or six miles in advance. My desire was to keep the animals fresh and in good condition for the march across the long desert which lay before us, and to give the soldiers a day’s rest before setting out. The Gila here makes a bend to the north, and is not’again seen from the road until it reaches the ‘ Coco-Maricopa villages, forty-five miles distant. As there is no water the whole distance, the journey must be made in one march, without stopping ; to prepare for it, therefore, we encamped for the’ day in a me quit grove near. the river. * The kegs and canteens were filled with water PT paratory for the journey; and in order to give the soldiers a little the start of us, they set off at four o'clock. The train left an hour and a half later, course being east by north. We entered at once UP the great plateau or desert, where the road was ee and hard. The animals moved off at a quick galt, i had seemingly got the idea that they were approae™ ing grassy fields. About fifteen miles brought ¥ to os ih sa i al tn a i Pea St he bali RB wal Byles tS 5 foe bmn me A eos fA arn tenn FIs Se * . TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 209 a mountain range which had long loomed up before us, and seemed to present an impassable barrier to our progress; but as we drew near, what appeared at a distance to be continuous, now showed many passages through, of easy access, and with an ascent so gradual - as to be scarcely apparent. The great mountain chain, as it seemed to us to be, was in reality a collec- tion of detached ridges and isolated mountains rising abruptly from the desert. We were accordingly able to keep on our course, winding through these mountains with scarcely an ascent or descent worth naming. The road was excellent through all the defiles; although there were many small gullies requiring care in cross- ing, and which shows that there are very heavy rains here at times. The vegetation on this desert is the same as on the several portions we had from time to time passed over in our journey from the Colorado. .The great cereus here raises its lofty head above. all other plants, attain- ing its greatest perfection in this barren and desolate region. We passed several of gigantic dimensions, and others of a variety of forms, exhibiting singular contortions. If one unused to these remarkable plants should suddenly be brought to this place, where he would see before him a vast plain studded with thou- sands of these cacti, many of which rise to the height of twenty or thirty feet, in a single stem without a branch, he would be very likely, particularly if he saw them as we did by moonlight, to imagine himself in the midst of the ruins of a magnificent palace, the columns of which were alone left standing. The lesser plants, thinly scattered over the plain, are a dwarfish VOL. 1.—14 210 FORT YUMA mezquit and larrea Mexicana, with an occasional palo verde in the arroyos. Towards midnight, the pack-mules passed me; for up to this time [had beenin advance. [had observed _ before, that in long marches, when the wagon-mules became fatigued, those with packs would quicken their pace. My wagon-mules, unwilling to be left, increased their pace, and I allowed them to keep just far enough behind the packs to avoid the dust. As there was no stopping the pack-mules without relieving them of their burdens, Mr. Leroux said it would be far better to push on until we reached the water and grass; and I determined with my little wagon to keep with him. It was-now about two o'clock, and the soldiers as well as the horsemen were so much fatigued, that the wagons were stopped, and all threw themselves dowa just as they were to get alittle rest on the bare desert, hitching their mules to their waists by their long lariats. I left them,’ and hastened forward with Mr. Leroux and the packs. | June 30th. At daylight we passed the south end of a range of mountains which extend to the Gila, term nating near the mouth of the Salinas River; and at half ‘past six we reached some water-holes, about a mile from the first Coco-Maricopa village, thus making the journey of forty-five miles in thirteen hours. This may be co” sidered slow in the age of locomotives and steamers, or even with stage-coaches; but with a train of emact ated pack-mules, each carrying on his back two hun- dred and fifty pounds weight, and going the whole » distance without a particle of food or water, it is some thing of a feat. TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 211 It was indeed a pleasant sight to find ourselves once more surrounded by luxuriant grass. Although we had met with a little salt grass in one or two places on the march, which no animal would eat if he could get any thing else, we had not seen a patch of good’ grass since leaving our camp at San Isabel, fifty-six miles from San Diego. At Vallecita and Carrizo Creek it is indifferent. As it would yet be several hours Hetiiee we could look for the wagons and the remainder of the party, we turned the mules out to luxuriate on the rich pasture before them, and creeping under some mezquit bushes soon fell asleep, rest being more desirable than food. The wagons with the rest of the party, including the escort, came in at half-past ten. We now got, out all the tents, and arranged our camp with much care, as we were to be here for some days, to await the arri- val of Lieutenant Whipple and the surveying party. We selected a spot in which there was a pretty grove of mezquit bushes, and there we pitched the tents. The water here is found in several holes, from four to six feet below the surface, which were dug by Colonel Cooke on his march to California. In some of these holes the water is brackish, in others very pure. The Gila passes about two site to the north; for one half of which distance the grass extends, the other half being loose sand. Major Emory, in his report,* re- commends parties going to California by this route not to cross the plateau which we had just come over, but to keep to the river, as “ the journey is put * Notes of Military Resenisiilaing p- 89. 212 FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. a trifle longer.” Tle accounts on which he bases this recommendation were erroneous, the route along the river being more than double the distance, as reported to me by the engineers whose duties required them to follow it. It is besides thickly wooded, and would pre- sent difficulties to wagons, and even to pack-mules ; whereas the road over the plateau which we took is excellent all the way. It is also proper to state, that Lieutenant Whipple and Mr. Gray found the bend of the river to be much greater than it is laid down by Major Emory on his map.* * Mr. Gray in his official letter to the Secretary of the Interior, from San Diego, relating to the survey of the Gila, says, that “ many errors of others who had been along this river, in‘ astronomical observations, were corrected by Lieutenant Whipple."—Senate Doc. No. 119, 32 Cong. 1st Session, p. 307. It may be mentioned in this connection, that the survey of the Boundary Commission brought to light two important geographical facts. One was, that the Colorado, after receiving the Gila, takes sudden turn of seven or eight miles to the westward before resuming its southerly direction, which turn gives the United States both banks of the river, The other was the error in laying down the great bend just below the mouth of the Salinas. Yet both these supposed discoveries were made by Father Kino before the year 1700, although they never obtained a place in the maps; for in speaking of this eminent missiou- ary and geographical explorer, Alegro says: “ En este viage observd el: padre Kino dos cosas, entre otras: la primera que el Gila como a 55 grados de San Gerdnimo, despues de haber corrido cuasi constantemente al Ouest, vuelve como por espacio de ocho leguas al Norte. La se gunda, que despues de juntos el Gila y el Colorado, corren por doce leguas al Poniente antes de volver dcia el Sur & desembocar en el Seno Californio.”"— Alegre Hist, de la Compania de Jesus en Nueva Espana. Tom. iii. p. 119. | THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. 213 CHAPTER XXX. THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians—Camp removed to the banks of the Gila—The river dr y—No grass—War party—Return to our first camp —Traffic with these Indians—Further accounts of the Oatman family —Francisco the Maricopa interpreter—Feeding the tribe—Visit from the Pimos—Religious notions of these tribes—Their manners and cus- toms—Agriculture—Art of spinning and weaving—Manufactures | of cotton—Pottery—Basket-work—Dress—Their attempts at collecting zoological specimens—Villages—Houses and mode of building—Store- houses—Horses and cattle. In the afternoon our camp was filled with the ee Maricopa Indians, who had discovered us from some of their look-outs, They all manifested a friendly dis- position, and seemed very glad to meet among us so many of their old acquaintances, several of the party having spent some days among them while engaged in surveying the river. The most active and important man among them was a chief named Francisco Dakey. € had been in various parts of Mexico and California, spoke Spanish fluently, and acted as our interpreter. There were three or four others who had lived for some time at Tucson, where they had picked up suffi- cient Spanish to ‘indice themselves underst 214 ; THE COCO-MARICOPA AND : I told them we wanted vegetables, fruit, green corn, and mules; for which we would pay them in white cotton cloth, calico, red flannel and other shirts; blankets, and trinkets. They generally raise a great many fine melons; but it was too early yet for them. They brought us green corn, squashes, beans, and dried peas. We also bought of them some dried corn (maize) for the animals. The culinary department, as usual, seemed to have most attractions for our Indian friends, who formed a double row around the fire while cooking was going on. They also crowded into the tents, and occupied all the space about them. When night came, wé expected they would ‘leave; but they stretched them- selves out on the grass, and passed the night in the camp. June 30th. As the heat was intense, the mercury ranging from 100° to 110°, and as we had very little shade, it was thought advisable to get nearer the river, where there were more trees, and where the men would have a better opportunity to bathe, a lux- ury which they had enjoyed every day since leaving Fort Yuma. The Indians told me we had_ better remain where we were, as there was no grass near the river. I felt disposed to listen to them; but such was the desire of the party to be on the water that I cov sented to go, and gave orders to strike the tents imme diately after breakfast. By eight o’clock we set off, under the guidance of Francisco, and followed by fifty or sixty more of his tribe. After crossing a deep arroyo of sand, which 1s filled by the river at its floods, and pushing our way THE PIMO INDIANS. 215 through a thick underbrush of willows, we at length reached the bank of the river, when I found the state- ments of the Indians too true. There were many fine large cotton-wood trees, beneath which we stopped, ‘and which afforded us a good shade from the scorching rays of the sun; but there was not a blade of grass to . be seen, and, what was worse, the Gila was dry! We crossed and recrossed its bed without wetting the soles of our shoes; although by digging a couple of feet, we found water for ourselves and our animals. We now turned the animals loose to browse upon the twigs of the willows and cotton-woods, as there was no other food for them; and I sent Mr. Leroux up the stream, in search of the two great desiderata for the party, grass and water, and shade if it was to be found. In three or four hours, after making a diligent search through the bottom, he returned and reported that the river was dry as far as he had followed it, and that he had met with no grass. In fact, he was told by the Indians, that we should find no grass until we passed the Pimo villages, from twelve to fifteen miles beyond. It was so hot and dry where we were, that we did.not pitch our tents, having concluded to tetrace our steps in the morning to our first camp at the water-holes. The dryness of the river was produced by the water having been turned off by the Indians to irrigate their lands, for which the whole stream seemed barely sufficient. It is probable, however, that, with more Cconomical management, it might be made to go much further, A party of the Coco-Maricopas remained with us 216 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND to-day, who were to set off in the morning on an expe- dition against their enemies, the Apaches, north of the Salinas. They were gayly dressed, as is the universal . custom of the Itidians on such occasions, and mounted on good-looking horses. The chiefs who wereé to lead: the band begged hard of me to lend them a few rifles with the necessary ammunition; which I had to refuse. As an additional inducement, which they thought I could not refuse, they offered to bring me a live Apache boy, and a girl too, if I wished; but having no desire for such, additions to our-party, I was com pelled to decline the generous proposal. | : July 1st. Our Indian friends composing the war party were up at daylight preparing for a start. They seemed to be supplied with small loaves of bread and dried meat, of which they made their morning’s meal. They then decorated themselves with all the finery they could muster. Most of them had shirts of white . cotton or red flannel, which they had obtained of us and which they seemed to regard as the beau-ideal of a dress, without the addition of any other garment. Such as had their own ‘cotton blankets, placed them around their bodies in folds, and over this wound their lariats as tight as possible; for the double purpose, I suppose, of bracing their bodies, and of protecting their vital parts from arrows. Those who possesse neither shirts nor blankets, remained as nature made them, with the addition of a little paint. On their head dresses, they had all bestowed more attention than on their bodies. Some had them plastered with clay, so as to resemble huge turbans. Others h decorated the great club of hair which hung dow” THE PIMO INDIANS. “? 217 their backs with bits of scarlet cloth, but more of them with the richly-figured sashes or belts of their own manufacture. Some again wore their hair in braids tastefully wound around their heads, intermin- gled with pieces of scarlet cloth ; while a few, less par- ticular as to their appearance, wore it clubbed up behind in a huge mass. .The manes and tails of their horses were also set off with bits of white and red cloth. Their arms were solely the bow and arrow: most of them had a skin quiver hung across their backs ; though a few carried their arrows in their gir- dles. There was quite an exciting time as the party were about to start; and several of the Commission desired to take their rifles and accompany them, a request which was of course refused. Wishing to get back to our old camp in the cool of the morning, we did not wait for breakfast, but were off by five o'clock, and, after another hard tug through the sand, reached the camping ground, where we had every thing we could ask for, except shade, and water to bathe in. The latter was the greatest deprivation. The tents were again pitched, and the camp arranged as it was on the day of our arrival. : The Indians again flocked around us, and in greater numbers than before. The Pimos having heard of our arrival, many of them came also, bringing such vege- tables as they had, together with pinole, made both from wheat and corn. Some of the pinole was sweet- ened with the flour of mezquit beans, which they also brought separate in small earthen vases, or ollas, as the Mexicans callthem. The mezquit flour, which is ground very fine, has a sickish sweetness; so that, although I 218 . THE COCO-MARICOPA AND became fond of the beans in the pod, and liked to pick them from the trees as we rode along, I could not eat them when dry and converted into flour. They also brought us the fruit of the petahayd rolled up in masses or balls as large as one’s fist. In this state it resem- bles in appearance the pulp of figs, and has something of the same taste mingled with that of the raspberry. We had gathered some as we came along the Gila, but had found none so good as this. All became very fond of it, and our Indian friends found a ready sale for all they brought. Jars of molasses extracted from the same were also offered for sale. I inquired of the Indians to-day what they knew of the murder of the Oatman family before mentioned. They remembered the affair well; indeed one of the chiefs present had accompanied the party after the committal of the murder. His statement corresponded with what I have related. They charged the Tonto Apaches with the crime, and said, ‘ With God's per mission, we will retake the two children, and restore them to the Americans.” I told.them they should be well rewarded, if they would do so; and that if so for- tunate as to recover them, they might take them to the American Fort (Yuma) on the Colorado; if they could not carry them there, to the Mexican com manding officer at Tucson. Among the Maricopas, I noticed to-day three whom Thad seen in Ures when there last winter, and to whom I had given notes of recommendation. They 2¥ showed them to me carefully wrapped up in seV® envelopes, and deposited in a bag of black skin. All the chiefs, both Pimos and Coco-Maricopas, have Jet THE PIMO INDIANS. 219 ters which they have obtained from passing emigrants, recommending them to the favor and kind treatment of others. They prize these certificates very highly. July 2d. This morning, Francisco, the Maricopa in- terpreter, breakfasted with me, and, from his ease at table, showed that he had been among civilized people before. He was well dressed, having on pantaloons, a — shirt, and hat. He isa man of much intelligence and shrewdness, and expressed a desire to serve us. The Americans who had been through these villages before, he said, had given his people very little, although they had done much for them. They had brought the Americans wood and water, and had acted as guides, sometimes accompanying them many miles, and he him- self had acted as interpreter for all parties, but had received little or nothing in return. Besides this, his people had often given corn, melons, and vegetables, to ours; but the Americans had told them they were very poor (as they doubtless were), and had neither clothes nor goods with which to reward their kind- ness. He said they sometimes received money from the Americans; but it was of little use to them, as they wanted mamta (white cotton) and shirts. I told Francisco, in reply, that those he referred to were mostly families of poor emigrants, who had left their homes, and were going to California in the hope of doing better ; and that before I left, if his people con- ducted themselves well, I would not only pay him for all I received, but would make him and the other chiefs of his tribe presents, to induce them to treat all other Americans who might pass their villages with kind- ness, and supply them with what they could spare. 220 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND There was one practice of this chief that was not so agreeable to me, namely, that of helping his friends to the choicest bits from my table. When we took our places, they all assembled, and sat or stood gaping around. Francisco, during the meal, occasionally hand- ed them a piece of bread or meat; and when we had finished, he coolly piled up his plate, and passed it around among his friends. At first, I was rather amused at the fellow’s impudence; but on a subse- quent occasion, he carried the joke still further, not only giving them what he had collected on his own plate, but stripping the table of all that remained, so as to leave nothing for my cook and servant. As our sup- ply of provisions was limited, I had no idea of feed- ing so many hungry mouths, which had an abundance at home; consequently my second invitation to the chief, was the last. Yet he made his appearance reg larly every morning while we remained, and gave many hints about being hungry, expressing his. surprise to the cook that he did not have a scat at my table. I told him, finally, that it was not the custom among Americans, when they asked a friend to their table, to feed his whole tribe. -* This man afterwards became quite a bore to us; for nothing would satisfy his avarice. I gave him shirts, pantaloons, white cotton, and calico, besides beads and trinkets for his wife and children. Lieut. Paige, also, made him some valuable presents; but he constantly asked for more, and was most importunate for whiskey. I told him we had none; but this he seemed to doubt, declaring that we were the first party of Americans he had ever seen that did not drink whiskey. Eve'Y THE PIMO INDIANS. yee junk bottle he saw about my tent or wagon, was sus- pected to contain the forbidden liquor; and nothing would satisfy him until he examined them himself. After finding in one lemon syrup, in another vinegar, and ina third a mixture for diarrhoea, which communi- cated an unpleasant pucker to his mouth, the fellow gave up all hopes of obtaining the object of hissearch. Much harm has been done by Americans in giving this poor and simple-hearted people intoxicating drinks; and it is a matter of satisfaction to me to state, that in my long intercourse with the Indians here, as well as at the Copper Mines with the Apaches, none ever got a drop of liquor from me, or from my camp to my knowledge. In the evening, while a crowd of Indians were lying or squatting around my tent, I had a long talk with a Maricopa, whose name I forget (but who spoke Span- ish well), on the manners and customs of his people. This man was terribly crippled, having a year before been engaged in a fight with the Yumas, in which his party was defeated. He was lanced in many places, beaten with clubs, his hair cut off, and left for dead. After the combatants had left, he revived, and by some means succeeded in getting home. He was still unable to walk, except with a long staff, but had to be lifted on his horse, and rode about with some diffi- culty. He was quite an intelligent man, and, while we remained, was constantly in ourcamp. He said the Coco-Maricopas came here not many years before, to escape from the Yumas, with whom they were constantly at war, and by whom they had been greatly reduced in numbers. Their former range was along the valley of the Gila, on the opposite side 222 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND of the Jornada and towards the Colorado. Their pre- sent position adjoining the Pimos, was chosen for the benefit of mutual protection. a This people restrict themselves to a single wife. Their ideas of a Supreme Being, in whose existence they believe, are of so vague a nature that I could not ascertain fhem with exactness. After death, they believe that their souls go to the banks of the Colorado, their ancient dwelling-place, and there take refuge in the great sand hills, where they are metamorphosed | into various animals and birds. Their heads, hands, feet, etc., each become owls, bats, wolves, and other animals. They believe, too, that the souls of their ene- mies, the Yumas, also find a place there; and that the wars which have so long existed between them on earth, will be continued there, after death. © When a man desires to marry, and has made choice of a girl for his wife, he first endeavors to win over her parents by making them presents. The fair one’s attention is sought by another process. To do this, he takes his flute, an instrument of cane with four holes, and, seating himself beneath a bush near her dwell- ing, keeps up a plaintive noise for hours together. This music is continued day after day; and if no notice is at length taken of him by the girl, he may ‘hang up his flute,” as it is tantamount to a rejec tion, If the proposal is agreeable, the fair one makes it known to the suitor, when the conquest 6 considered complete. No girlis forced to marry against her will, however eligible her parents may consider the match. Whenever a girl marries, it is expected that her husband will present her parents with as mu‘ ee I ere TS THE PIMO INDIANS. 223 . as his means will permit, to compensate them for the loss of their daughter, whose services are to them a matter of consequence. i oak Indian Flute, and Rattle of Deer’s Hoofs, Among both the Coco-Maricopas and the Pimos, the women do the principal part of the work. Besides taking care of the children and attending to the house- hold matters, they grind the corn, make baskets, gather mezquit beans, help till the ‘ground, and sometimes spin and weave. The men plant and gather the crops, and take care of the animals. This I believe is all they do; and as the performance of these duties is not a very onerous task, they are idle the greater portion of the time. Their implements of husbandry are steel hoes and axes which they obtain from the Mexicans, harrows, and occasion- ally a long-handled spade. Grinding corn on the me- tates, or stones, is a work of great labor, and comes hard on the poor women, who are obliged to get upon their knees, and exert the whole strength of their arms 224 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND and bodies in the task. I have seen women thus em- ployed when the thermometer stood at 110°, while their lords lay stretched out at length on their backs looking on. Water is invariably brought by the women in large earthen vessels upon their heads resting upon a small cushion. Some of these vessels hold six gallons. This mode of carrying burdens, by which the body is kept in a perfectly erect position, tends greatly to develope the chest and add to the general beauty of the figure. Hence we see among the Indians, as well as among the lower class of Mexicans, forms which Walker might well have taken for models in his ‘‘ Analysis of Beauty in Women.” As the manners and customs of the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas are the same, with the exception of their rites of burial, I shall include both in describing these customs; although there is little doubt but that the knowledge of the arts which they possess originated with the Pimos. Cotton is raised by them,* which they spin and weave. Their only manufactures consist of blankets of various textures and sizes; a heavy cloth of the same material used by the women to put around their loins; and an article from three to four inches wide, used as a band for the head, or a girdle for the waist. The blankets are woven with large threads, slightly twisted and without any nap. They are made of white cotton, and are without ornament of colors oF figures, save a narrow selvage of buff. * Ibrought home with me the seeds with samples of this cotton, which was pronounced equal to the best Sea Island. The seeds I dis tributed among various planters. THE PIMO INDIANS. — 225 The implements used by these tribes for spinning and weaving are of the most primitive character. A slender stick about two feet long passing through a block of wood which serves to keep up the momentum imparted to it, constitutes the spindle. One end of this rests on a wooden cup inserted between the toes, and the other is held and twirled by the fingers of the night hand; while the left hand is occupied in draw- ing out the thread from the supply of cotton, which is Coiled upon the left arm in loose rolls. : In weaying, the warp is attached to two sticks, and VOL. U,—15 226 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND stretched upon the ground by means of stakes. Each alternate thread of the warp is passed round a piece of cane, which, being lifted, opens a passage for the shut- tle in the manner of a sley. The operator sits in the fashion of a tailor, and, raising the sley with one hand, with the other passes the shuttle, which is simply a pointed stick with the thread wound upon it, between the threads of the warp. The work is beaten up after the passage of each thread by the use of a sharp smooth- edged instrument made of hard wood. The operation of course progresses slowly; and from the length of time consumed in spinning and weaving, they set a high price upon their blankets, asking for them ten or twelve dollars in money, or a new woollen blanket of equal size. The weaving is generally done by the old men. The head-band or girdle consists of a white ground with a variety of figures of red, blue, and buff. The figures are angular, and, though they present a great variety, are all of one general character. The colored portions of these belts are made of wool, and the colors are quite brilliant. On examining the patterns on these bands, one is struck with their general resemblance to the figures on the ancient pottery found among the ruins of this country, a comparison with which will be made hereafter. : The pottery made by these tribes is all red or dark brown, the latter a blending of black and red. The articles made are very limited, though, perhaps, quite sufficient for their wants. In fact, they are the same as those made and in use by the Mexicans. They con: sist of ollas, or vases, of every size, the largest holding ' THE PIMO INDIANS. ya about two pailfulls, and the smallest half a pint; jars with small apertures, resembling bottles ; basins of dif- ferent sizes and forms, from that of a milk-pan toa saucer; and oblong vessels of small dimensions used as dippers. All these vessels are painted or ornamented with black lines arranged in geometrical figures, and of a character resembling those on the head-bands. eae DO ee mM i) Mg AO py BE > | Baskets and Pottery of the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas. The basket work of this people is remarkably well made of willow twigs, and so close as to be impervious to water. The baskets are of various shapes, and are used for different purposes, Those of a large basin- ike form are the most common, These they carry on their heads filled with corn or other articles. Li ee 228 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND the pottery, they are ornamented with geometrical figures, arranged with much taste. he dress of the Coco-Maricopas and the Pimos is the same. The women fold the smaller blankets or other cloths, and pass them around their loins, letting them hang to their knees. They are sometimes fastened with one of the belts before mentioned, but are generally kept in place by simply tucking one end in. Sandals of raw hide are worn on the feet. No- thing is worn on the head, nor is the hair ever tied up. - In front it is cut off square across the eyebrows; the rest is suffered to hang loosely over the ears, neck, and about half way down the back, affording 2 PT tection to these parts from the intense heat of the sua. It is a universal custom among the women when they arrive at maturity, to draw two lines with some blue- colored dye from each corner of the mouth to the chin. This is pricked in with some pointed instrument, ™ remains through life. Occasionally a fair one gets @ ' THE PIMO INDIANS. 229 string of beads; but I saw more men and boys with these ornaments than women. One boy in particular, who might pass for a dandy among them, wore some twenty or more strings of beads. The body, arms, and legs of the women are naked. They generally have fine forms; for which they are indebted, as I have before remarked, to their mode of carrying bur- dens on their heads. In this respect, there is a marked difference between them and the men, who are gener- ‘ally lean and lank, with very small limbs and narrow chests. Their labor is so light, and they keep so closely to their villages or the immediate vicinity, that there is no opportunity for physical development. The men in general go naked, except the breech- cloth. A few, however, are provided with their native blankets of large size, which they fold and throw over their shoulders in the manner of the Mexicans. Some fasten them around their waists in graceful folds, letting the ends fall to their knees; then drawing a cord between their legs and attaching it to their waists, their garment resembles a capacious pair of pantaloons. I suppose that all are provided with cotton blankets ; but, owing to the almost incessant heat of the day, they seldom wear them. At night, when cool, these Constitute their sole covering. The head-band is worn by nearly all the men gracefully put on in several folds, with the braided ends hanging down to their shoul- ders. They also have a large woollen cord, from half an inch to an inch in diameter, of different colors, which they use as a head ornament, twining it around the hair. So many Americans have been among these People, that most of them have obtained ragged or 230 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND ~ cast-off shirts, which they put on on great occasions. By their traffic with the Boundary Commission, they obtained a large number of these garments of a good substantial quality both cotton and woollen. The bright scarlet shirts gave them quite a picturesque appear- ance. When they visited our camp, every man put on his best garments, no matter what was their fashion, or how many he had. I remember that on one occa- sion Francisco made his appearance in a pair of panta- loons, with a white shirt, over which was a checked’ one, and another of red flannel outside of that. For short time he strutted about the camp, the envy and admiration of his friends. But he soon got tired of sporting such a dress with the heat at 110°; and shortly after we saw him cooling off on the grass, divested of all his finery, which he had carefully tied up in a bundle. The men wear their hair long, never cutting it except across the eyebrows, down to which it hangs, and thus partially protects the eyes. When loosed, their hair teaches to their knees; but usually it is clubbed up in a large mass on their backs. Their ear- locks either hang loose, or are braided in several strands, with little ornaments of bone, tin, or red cloth attached to them. But the decoration of their heads with the bands of which I have spoken, forms the most picturesque part of their costume. They have 4 sin- gular practice of filling their hair with clay; 8° that when dry it resembles a great turban. I could not imagine their object in adopting so filthy a custom, unless it was to destroy the vermin. The men also wear a profusion of beads when they can obtain them. THE PIMO INDIANS. 283i Some have long strings of sea-shells or parts of shells, which are highly prized. I tried to buy some of them; but the only man at: all disposed to sell asked me five dollars or a pair of blankets for a few strings, a price so extravagant that I declined to make the purchase. The women carry their infants in cradles similar to those of other Indians. I have seen them in camp with a basket of green corn on their heads, and on the top of this the cradle and child. When it gets to be about a year old, it is carried astride on the hip, the mother holding one arm around its body. Although the men and boys go naked, I never saw a girl, how- ever young, without clothes around its hips similar to — those worn by the women. The Indians were much amused by Dr. Webb’s col- lection of insects, reptiles, and small mammalia, which, were preserved in bottles or hanging about our tent. I told the boys to go out and collect for us any curious insects, lizards, or snakes they could find, and that I would reward them for so doing. Instead of letting the boys go, the men, in the belief that they would be well rewarded, went themselves, and in a few hours came very earnestly to my tent with a few grasshop- pers and crickets. Although utterly valueless, as con- taining nothing new, yet Dr. Webb graciously re- ceived them, as an encouragement to prosecute their zoological researches further, at the same time inform- ing his new recruits that lizards and homed frogs, Which abound on the plateau, would be most accept- able. They now set off again, and we yoped some- thing better from this second effort. About an hour after, some half-a-dozen sturdy fellows marched to- 232 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND wards my tent in single file, with a great deal of importance. The leader advanced with a dignified air, and the Doctor got his bottles ready to receive the specimens which the six men had collected. But his expectations, if he indulged any, of adding new species to his collection, soon vanished, when the man laid upon the table two small lizards, minus their tails, which had been broken off in securing them. For their arduous services in the cause of science, the captors of the tailless lizards coolly demanded a shirt apiece. Two old chiefs made their appearance to-day, and at once recognised Mr. Leroux as the person who guided Colonel Cooke and his battalion through here in 1847. Mr. Leroux also recognised one whom they called Blanco, as a chief who commanded the Marico- pas twenty-five years ago, when a party of hunters and trappers from New Mexico, among whom was Leroux, had a severe fight with them, and escaped narrowly with their lives. On being reminded of it, the old chief recollected the circumstances, which he related, and which corresponded with the account of Leroux. The valley or bottom-land occupied by the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas extends about fifteen miles along the south side of the Gila, and is from two to four miles in width, nearly the whole being occupied by their villages and cultivated fields. The Pimos occUpy the eastern portion. There is no dividing line betwee? them, nor any thing to distinguish the villages of one from the other. The whole of this plain is intersected by irrigating canals from the Gila, by which they are enabled to control the waters, and raise the THE PIMO INDIANS. ; 233 most luxuriant crops. At the western end of the valley is a rich tract of grass, where we had our encampment. This is a mile or more from the nearest village of the Coco-Maricopas. On the northern side of the river there is less bottom-land, and the irriga- tion is more difficult. There are a few cultivated spots here; but it is too much exposed to the attacks of their enemies for either tribe to reside upon it. The villages consist of groups of from twenty to fifty habitations, surrounded by gardens and cultivated fields, intersected in every direction by acequias, which lead the water from the Gila. Their mode of irriga- tion is the same as that practised in various parts of Mexico. Their cultivated fields are generally fenced with crooked stakes, wattled with brush, the thorny mezquit predominating; although I noticed large patches of wheat, along distance from any village, that were not inclosed. Their houses are built with stakes, poles, corn- shucks, and straw. For the small houses, four upright stakes forked at one end are inserted in the ground. For the larger dwellings nine are used; three on each side, and one in the centre. Across the tops of these, other sticks are laid to support the roof. Next a row of poles is inserted in the ground, a few feet outside the larger upright stakes, bent over towards the centre and fastened to the horizontal beams. These are then united in the centre, forming a slightly rounded top. Smaller poles are now horizontally interlaced with the upright ones, and between them straw, corn-shucks, or rushes are interwoven in large masses, so as to shed the rain and protect them from the intense heat of the 234 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND sun; some are then plastered over with mud. An opening for a door is left, about three feet high, to creep in at. These habitations vary in height from five to seven feet; so that in many of them one cannot stand erect. In fact they are chiefly used to sit and sleep in. : In diameter they are from fifteen to twenty- five feet. In the most westerly village of the Coco- Maricopas, from which the annexed sketch was taken, the wigwams are wholly plastered with mud. Their cooking is done out of doors, where the greater por- tion of their time is passed, beneath a kind of shed or bower attached to the wigwams This is open on all sides, and merely protected from the sun overhead. Beneath these bowers the people are generally seen engaged in their household occupations, only resorung to their better protected abodes in cool or rainy weather. The accompanying sketch shows the mar ner of erecting these wigwams. . Mode of constructing Wigwams. Besides the dwelling-places, each family is provided with a store-house or granary. These are built ke the Mexican jakals, i. e., with stakes placed close together and about eight or nine feet high. They ate better structures than the dwellings, and are probably made more open, in order to give a free circulation © | | ] 4 | | PREP ee eT A OS ee Oe ee SP wee aes es RIE Te THE PIMO INDIANS. 235 air through the grain deposited in them. They are wattled with straw and rushes, and are sometimes coated with a thick layer of mud. As this becomes dry, additional layers of mud are added, which render wie Coco-Maricopa Village. them impervious to water. The wheat and shelled corn (maize) are put into large vases or baskets, from three to five feet high, made out of ropes of wheaten straw. These ropes, which are as thick as one’s arm, are coiled around into graceful forms, and sewed together like some kinds of basket work. The vases 236 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND so formed contain ten or twelve, and some even fifteen bushels of grain. The following sketch exhibits a view of the interior of a Pimo granary or store-house. uae Pimo ade, On the tops of their wigwams and granaries may often be seen large piles of mezquit beans in the pod, which are placed there to dry, preparatory to being ground into flour for pinole. Both the tribes of Indians referred to, use a sing™ lar piece of frame-work made of three poles connected with a netting, which is carried on their backs. These are used both by women and men for gathering me” quit beans, corn, and other light articles. They may D© seen at every wigwam, and answer the purpose of @ wheelbarrow. They are highly prized by their owners, as they are very useful to them, and are made bbe much labor. For the only specimen I could obtaiD, I was obliged to give goods to the value of ten dollars. These people possess horses and cattle, though but ae EN Ce nN ee eee THE PIMO INDIANS. 237 very few mules. I found it impossible to procure a single mule from them during my stay. They breed none, and what they obtain are such as have been lost or abandoned by passing emigrants. They plough but little, finding their hoes quite sufficient for turning up the light soil. When ploughing is resorted to, oxen alone are used. They possess a few carts and wagons, obtained from emigrants, which they use with oxen for agricultural purposes. We saw all kinds of sad- dles among them, from the best dragoon and Mexican saddles to the simple tree or frame. They find them on the road, where they have been thrown away by parties who have lost their animals. Those who ride bareback use a broad girth, which is passed quite loosely around the body of the horse. Into this one foot is inserted. There seemed to be numbers of horses among them, which with the cattle are left to graze near the villages during the day, and at night are brought into the corrals, or yards, for safety. The only weapon used by these tribes is the bow and arrow. The short club of the Yumas and the long lance of the Apaches I never saw ainong them. The constant use of this weapon has rendered them excellent marksmen. Even the boys are very eX- pert in the use of it. I have seen boys of ten or twelve years of age, strike a cent three times out of five at a distance of fifteen yards. It is quite common for them to shoot doves with their arrows, and to bring in half a dozen of these birds after a ramble among the cotton-woods. It is a favorite amusement with both men and boys to try their skill at hitting the petahaya, which oes a fine object on the plain. Numbers 238 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. often collect for this purpose; and in crossing the great plateau, where these plants abound, it is common to see them pierced with arrows. ; - Z yah pee ge os WMV io : RE IA oy ee eee ne y / Pant ” Pe Oe " ggdN DIAN AMUSEMENTS, SHOOTING AT THE PETAHAYA. "ea AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. 239 CHAPTER XXXI. AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. Journey to the River Salinas—Its rich bottom-lands—Large stream—Pimo Indians—Ruined buildings—Mounds—Broken pottery—Traces of irri- gating canals—Ancient population probably large—Return towards the Pimo villages—Are taken for Apaches—Arrival at camp—Ar- rival of Lieutenant Whipple—Survey of the Gila completed—Trade reopened with the Coco-Maricopas—Presents—Tribe of Cawenas— — Remove to the Pimo villages—Cola Azul and the Pimos—Traffic with them—Conference—Giving presents—Arrival of Mexican traders —Return of Lieutenant Paige with the escort—Leave the villages. July 3d. In order to make the most of my time while waiting the arrival of Lieutenant Whipple and party, 1 determined to take a short trip up the river Salinas, as far as the “Casas Grandes,” or ancient remains said to be there. I asked a couple of Mari- copas to go with me as guidés, and offered them a red flannel shirt each for their services. They wished two others to accompany them, if I would take them on the same terms, Finding that I consented so readily, they parleyed a while, and then demanded for each a 240 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND refused to accede to it, and told them that Francisco and one other would answer my purpose, as first pro- posed. _ At six o’clock this morning we set off, the party consisting of Dr. Webb, Messrs. Thurber, Pratt, Seaton, Force, Leroux, and myself, with attendants. Lieute-. nant Paige, with six soldiers, also accompanied us, that officer wishing to examine the opposite bank of the Gila, as well as the lands contiguous to the Salinas, with a view of establishing a military post in the vi- cinity of the Pimo villages. After crossing the bed of the Gila we pursued a westerly course about eight miles to the point of a range of mountains, near which we struck the bottom-lands. We now inclined more to the north, and in about eight miles struck the Sali- nas, about twelve miles from its mouth, where we stopped to let the animals rest and feed. The bottom, which we crossed diagonally, is from three to four miles wide. The river we found to be from eighty to one hundred and twenty feet wide, from two to three feet deep, and both rapid and clear. In these respects it is totally different from the Gila, which, for the two hundred miles we had traversed its banks, was slug- gish and muddy, a character which I think it assumes after passing the mountainous region and entering one with alluvial banks. The water is perfectly sweet, and neither brackish nor salt, as would be inferred from the name. We saw from the banks many fish 10 its clear waters, and caught several of the same species as those taken in the Gila. The margin of the Se on both sides, for a width of three hundred feet, consists of sand and gravel, brought down by freshets when PIMO VILLAGES. 241 the stream overflows its banks; and from the appear- ance of the drift-wood lodged in the trees and bushes, it must at times be much swollen, and run with great rapidity. The second terrace or bottom-land, varies from one to four miles in width, and is exceedingly rich. As it is but little elevated above the river, it could be irrigated with ease. At present it is covered with shrubs and mezquit trees, while along the imme- diate margin of the stream large cotton-wood trees grow. Near by we saw the remains of several Indian wigwams, some of which seemed to have been but recently occupied. Francisco told us they were used by his people and the Pimos when they came here to fish. He also told us that two years before, when the cholera appeared among them, they abandoned their dwellings on the Gila and’ came here to escape the pestilence. ; Owing to the intense heat, we lay by until five o'clock, and again pursued our journey up the river until dark, when, finding a little patch of poor grass, we thought best to stop for the night. Supper was got, and a good meal made from our fish. As we brought no tents, we prepared our beds on the sand. We had not long been in when we saw a body of | twelve or fifteen Indians on the river making for our camp. At first some alarm was felt, until Francisco told us that they were Pimos. They proved to be @ party which had been engaged in hunting and fishing. They were a jolly set of young men, dancing and sing- ing while they remained with us. I told them we Would like a few fish for breakfast, if they would bring them in. With this encouragement, they took leave VoL, 11.—16 242 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND of us, promising to fetch us some in the morning. But instead of waiting till the morning, they returned to the camp about midnight, aroused the whole party with their noise, and wished to strike a bargain at once for their fish, a pile of which, certainly enough to last a week, they had brought us. There was no getting rid of them without making a purchase, which accordingly did, when they left, and permitted us to get a few hours’ more sleep. July 4th, 1852. Left camp at half-past four, A. 3, determined not to wait for breakfast, but make the most of our time while it was cool; for it would be impossible to travel, or rather be attended with great inconvenience, during the heat of the day. We con- tinued our course due east up the river, towards some singular piles of rocks with fantastic tops, appearing like works of .art. For some time we all imagined these rocks to be the ruined buildings of which we.wete in search—the “houses of Montezuma,” as our Indian friends called them. We passed over the edge of 8 mountain, at the base of which the river ran, and then came to a wide and open plain, stretching some twenty-five or thirty miles eastwardly and southwardly- Entering this, we attempted to cross the bottom, which was so thickly overgrown with weeds and bushes that we could not penetrate it. We tried 10 vain to get through, but finding ourselves scattered, and fearing we should lose sight of each other, We retraced our steps along the margin of the hill, until we passed the jungle. The bottom now became mor open, and five or six miles further brought us to the plateau. On our way we saw many traces of ancient PIMO VILLAGES. 243 irrigating canals, which were the first evidences that the country had been settled and cultivated. But on reaching the plateau we found remains of buildings, all, however, in shapeless heaps. Not an erect wall could be seen. A little mound, conical or oblong, designated the character of the building: In many places I traced long lines of fallen walls, and in others depressions, from which the soil had been removed to make the adobe. On the plain, in every direction, we found an immense quantity of broken pottery, metate stones for grinding corn, and an occasional stone axe or hoe. The ground was strewn with broken pottery for miles. It was generally painted in a variety of geometric’ figures. The predominant colors were red, black, and white. The quality of the ware was very fine, more so than that made by the imos. I noticed too that much of it was painted on the inside, while at the present time all the pottery of the Indians and Mexicans is painted on the outside. As it was now growing very warm, we left the plateau and struck off for the Salinas, encamping beneath some tall cotton-woods, where we prepared and partook of a late breakfast. , Mr. Leroux, who had before come down the Sali- has, pointed out to me a mountain some six or eight miles off, at the base of which the river San Francisco or Verde’ enters from the north. Since we struck the Salinas, its course had been mostly east and west; and as far as it could be traced by the cotton-woods and verdure which mark its course, its direction indi- cated the same. We supposed ourselves now to be from thirty-five to forty miles its mouth. Look- 244 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND ing east from where we were, the whole prospect was shut in by mountains rising one above the other. I was informed by Leroux, that such was the character of the country all the way to New Mexico; and that there were no more broad desert plains or luxuriant valleys like those of the Salinas and Gila rivers for the entire distance. He came here from Albuquerque, on - the Rio Grande, by the valley of the Rio Verde, in fourteen days. We found the river clear and rapid, as at the first — camp, with many trout, whose silvery sides glittered in the translucent stream.: The quantity of water passing down the Salinas is more than double that of the Gila, which only becomes a respectable river after it receives the waters of the former. Yet there are seasons when the whole is evaporated, or absorbed by the sandy bed through which it passes, before reach- ing the Colorado. When at Hermosillo, in Sonora, 1 met an American who had passed over the same route, and he found the bed dry in many places. At five in the afternoon, the heat being less, I crept from beneath my shelter of willows, where I had spent several hours, and, accompanied by Dr. Webb, mounted my mule, and left for the plateau in advance of the party. A ride of a mile brought us to the table- land, when we made for a large mound or heap which arose from the plain. In crossing the bottom we passed many irrigating canals; and along the base of the plateau was one from twenty to twenty-five feet wide, and from four to five feet deep, formed by cut- ting down the bank—a very easy mode of construc” tion, and which produced a canal much more substat PIMO VILLAGES. 245 tial than if carried across the bottom. It must have extended many miles. The whole of this broad valley appeared to have been cultivated, though now over- grown with mezquit shrubbery. On reaching the great pile, I found it to be the remains of an adobe edifice from two hundred to two hundred and twenty-five feet in length, by from sixty to eighty feet wide, its sides facing the cardinal points. Portions of the wall were visible only in two places, one near the summit, at the south end, where, from the height of the pile, it must have originally been three or four stories high; and the other at the north- ern extremity, on the western side. These remains just projected above the mass of rubbish and crum- bled walls. The rest formed rounded heaps of various heights and dimensions, worn into deep gullies by the rain; the whole presenting a striking resemblance to the mounds which mark the site of ancient Babylon. The higher walls seen in. the sketch, . probably belonged to an inner portion of the building. Near this is a conical hill, formed, doubtless, by the crum- bling away of the higher portion or-tower. Near the wall, which projects from the lower portion, at the northern end, are some large masses of this wall which have fallen. The adobe is still very hard, so much so that I could not break it with the heel of my boot. Several broken metates, or corn-grinders, lie — about the pile. I picked up a stone pestle and some small sea shells. Along the eastern side are the Temains of a long wall, extending beyond the build- ing; now but a rounded heap, which seemed to have formed an inclosure. On the western side is an exca- 246 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND vation about four feet deep, and extending from sixty to eighty feet from the main heap, and along its entire length; from which I suppose the mud and gravel to have been taken to make the adobe. To the north- east, at a distance of two or three hundred feet,-are the ruins of a circular inclosure. This was not large enough for a corral; nor could it have been a well, as Ruins on the Satinas. it is too near the margin of the plateau where the canal ran, which would always furnish a supply of water. At the south, two hundred yards distant, are the remains of a small building with a portion of the wall still standing. : : _ From the summit of the principal heap, which 18 elevated from twenty to twenty-five feet above the PIMO VILLAGES. 247 plain, there may be seen in all directions similar heaps ; and about a mile to the east, I noticed a long range of them running north and south, which the Indians said were of a similar character to that on which we stood. In every direction, the plain was strewn with broken pottery, of which I gathered up some specimens to show the quality, as well as the style, of ornamenta- tion. Ialso found several of the green stones resem- bling amethysts which the Indians, after heavy rains, come here in search of. They are highly prized by them. All the early travellers in this country, from Coronado, who crossed the Gila in 1540, to the present time, have spoken of these so called amethysts. I would have liked to make a further examination of this plain; but our animals had no grass or other feed, nor should we find any until we could reach the Gila, twenty-five miles distant, which prevented me from extending my examinations. Mr. Leroux informed me that on the banks of the San Francisco, are similar heaps to these, and other ruins, the walls still standing. He thinks that the buildings he has seen on that river, and others in the Moqui and Navajo country, of three and four stories in height, would, if in a ruined state, make similar heaps to those under our notice. Iam inclined to the Same opinion, and believe that the ruins we visited, -belonged to a building of several stories | There is no doubt that this valley, as well as that of the Verde and Gila Rivers, were once filled with a dense population, far enough advanced in civilization to build houses of several stories in height, surrounded with regular outworks, and to irrigate their lands by 248 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND canals extending miles in length; but they seem to have left no trace or tradition by which we can tell who they were, or what was their fate. I made fre- quent inquiries of the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas as to the builders of these and the ruins on the Gila, but could obtain no other than the ever-ready, Quien sabe? These, as well as the ruins above the Pimo villages are known among the Indians as the ‘‘ houses of Montezuma,” an idea doubtless derived from the Mexi- | cans, rather than from any tradition of their own. We asked our Indian guide, who Montezuma was. He. answered, ‘‘ Nobody knows who the devil he was; all we know is, that he built these houses.” After spending an hour here, we took a strongly marked trail, which looked as though it had been travelled for a century, and which led due south towards the Fimo villages. There were other trails, leading in various directions; showing that the plain is much traversed, and the ruins often visited. e journeyed rapidly over the plain, which was a portion , of the great plateau or desert. It was a perfect level without an undulation. Not a hill or a ravine inter cepted our path. The vegetation was the same found on the plateau in our journey up the south side of the Gila. Larrea and small mezquit bushes predom- inated; while now and then the graceful petahay% raised its tall head far above the dwarfish plants of the- desert, often startling us with its sudden appearance. It was near midnight when we entered a thick grove of mezquit, from whose branches were pendent large quantities of the beans of which the mules are so fond. As we had now travelled from twenty-three to twenty- >: ee . . Sade Wh mS Ws “FL I—SNVIGNI ONId GHL dO SADVITIA ONY S(TAIA GALVAILTAO ; Lae + ee oe = Io = SF eeree 4a ee me pees PIMO VILLAGES. 249 five miles from the Salinas, and did not know the dis- ~ tance to the river, we concluded to stop here. We accordingly hitched our mules by their long lariats to _these bushes, on which they could feed, and stretched ourselves beneath their wide-spreading branches, to get a little rest until daylight should again appear. July 5th. At half-past four, without waiting for breakfast (for the reason that we had none to cook), we resumed our journey, and in two miles reached the Gila, or rather its bed; for it was dry here. As we entered the first fields of the Pimos, the sen- tinels in the outskirts, seeing us approach in long single file, mistook us for Apaches and gave the alarm accordingly; a very natural mistake, as no party of emigrants or travellers had ever entered their country from the north: We heard the alarm given, and echoed in all voices, from one tree or house-top to the other, until it reached their villages. . “Apaches! Apaches!” was the cry from every mouth; and when it reached the first village, it was borne onward to every part of the community, even to their allies the Maricopas. The two Indian guides who were with us, discovered the stampede we had so unin- tentionally caused among their Pimo brethren, and seemed to enjoy the joke much. In a few minutes we saw the Pimos mounted, bounding towards us in every direction, armed and ready for the contest; others, on foot with their bows and arrows, came streaming after them ; and in a short time, the foremost horseman, who was doubtless striving to take the first Apache scalp and bear it as a trophy to his people, reigned his steed before us. As he and those about him, perceived # 250 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND their mistake, they all burst into a hearty laugh, which was joined in by the rest as they came up. Assem- bling around our two Maricopas, they learnt the par- ticulars of our visit to the Salinas. They then all wheeled around; and while a portion acted as our escort to their villages, others fell behind and brought up the rear, so that our entry was that of a grand cavalcade. At 8 o'clock, we reached our place of encampment, having travelled fourteen miles. In the afternoon, Lieutenant Whipple and his party arrived. They had completed the survey of the Gila, a labor at this season of the year, with the heat at from 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, attended with no small difficulty. June 6th. As the notes of this survey, and the accompanying astronomical observations, had been obtained with great labor and some suffering. I felt unwilling to expose them to the risk of being lost in a journey across the continent; and, accordingly, determined to remain here a few days longer, to give Lieutenant Whipple an opportunity to duplicate them with the view of sending them back by a messenget to Major Heintzelman, at Fort Yuma, to be forwarded - him to the Secretary of the Interior at Washing: on. A brisk trade was carried on to-day with the Coco- Maricopas for corn, beans, meal, pinole, and squashes, as well as for the various articles of their manufacture, such as pottery, cotton blankets, baskets, &c. I gave the trading department into Mr. Thurber’s hands, find- ing it would be better managed by one person. e€ fitted up his tent for the purpose and made such a dis- Pe ne ees PIMO VILLAGES. ' 251 play of goods as was never beheld before in this commnu- nity. I also told Francisco, the chief before mentioned, tO invite all the chiefs or captains as he called them, of his tribe to come in, and I would make each of them a present of such articles as I had to give. Five, accordingly, presented themselves, and to each of them I gave shirts, a few yards of cotton cloth, some vermillion, beads, trinkets, etc.; with all which they seemed greatly pleased. I told them that these things were in return for the friendship shown, and the assis- tance they had given to the poor American emigrants who had passed through their country, and that they must continue to aid them when in their power to do so. I added that they would then be considered as the true friends of the Americans, and would be rewarded accordingly ; furthermore, that the Ameri- cans might be induced to establish a garrison near them, which would protect them and prevent all future attacks from the Apaches. It was on this occasion, that I gave Francisco so many things, for which he seemed so ungrateful. I found too, that he had told his people to advance the price of their corn, and other things; which made this day’s bartering the end of our trade. I felt quite indif- ferent on the subject, as it was my intention to remove the camp to the villages of the Pimos; for Mr. Leroux had ascertained that they were much better supplied with corn and every other commodity than the Coco- Maricopas, and were very desirous that we should divide our time with them for the purpose of trading. A few Indians of a nearly extinct tribe ealled the Cawinas, were in camp to-day. Only ten of this tribe 252 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND . remain, who are living among the Pimos and Coco- ~ Maricopas. Their former dwelling-place was on the Gila towards the Colorado. There they were brought in contact with the Yumas; and in the constant wars that existed between them and the Cawinas, they were all exterminated, except the small number which had taken refuge here. They speak a language different from the Pimos and Maricopas, and I could find but one man among the latter who understood it. He promised to come and give me the vocabulary, but did not again make his appearance. July 8th. After breakfast this morning; we struck our tents, and bade farewell to our Maricopa friends, among whom we had been ten days, with many regrets. From the first day of our arrival, they had thronged our | camp both day and night; and I am not aware that | they ever took an article that did not belong to them, nor had there been any difficulty between us, except their trying to overreach us in trade. But this did not interrupt our friendship, or prevent me from treat- | ing them all with kindness. In their intercourse with the whites, they are a docile and inoffensive people; | but they exhibit the same cruelty as other Indiatts, towards those of their red brethren with whom they | are at war. They still have occasional fights with the Yumas and the Apaches; and should any prisoner fall into their hands, they would delight, as much as the Apaches do, in putting him to the torture. Last winter, while Dr. Webb and his party were here, they saw an example of this. It appears that when Captain Ximenes, with the Mexican Commissio?, was at the Colorado, they induced an intelligent Yuma - PIMO VILLAGES. 253 to return with them. On passing through the villages of the Coco-Maricopas, notwithstanding every effort of the Captain to conceal this man, they discovered him, and by stratagem, got possession of him’ The party endeavored to effect his release; but they had not force enough to compel his captors to surrender him, and no presents would induce them todoso. He was put to the torture; and Dr. Webb and the other gentlemen of the U. 8S. Commission, were. invited to join the Maricopas, in the festivities and dances on the occasion. Group of Pimo Indians. As we rode through the villages, we saw the peo- 254 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND ple engaged in their various occupations. The women were generally at work grinding their corn or wheat. The children were squatting or lying in the shade, doing nothing. The cradle was suspended by a cord _ to the roof and kept swinging by the husband, who lay stretched at length on his back, or by the children. In these communities, there are men who labor in the fields, while others lounge about the villages doing nothing. They seem to have their dandies and gen- tlemen of leisure, as well as their more civilized bre- thren. The women, too, were carrying water on their heads, or transporting other things in the sprawling frames upon their backs. At noon, having journeyed about twelve miles through these villages and cultivated fields, we reached a Spot near an acequia, where there was grass, and a ~pleasant grove of mezquit trees. Here we pitched our tents, intending to remain a few days. We had scarcely got our camp in order, when we were surrounded by the Pimos. I sent a messenget to inform their head chief Cola Azul (blue tail) who was at work in the fields, that I would be glad to see him. In a short time he appeared, accompanied by his inter- preter Zu-maams. Although it was a dreadfully hot day, when we felt like divesting ourselves of as much clothing as possible, Cola Azul appeared ina large blue blanket overcoat, pantaloons, and a green felt hat, while his attendants were either naked, or wore around their loins the white cotton blanket of their own man facture. He at once presented me a number of cre dentials from various American officers, and others, who had passed here, and held intercourse with hid S > FF | <4 o=) ° Zz fo) Rn eI oe] A < = < a] [=] & — n ot nD < Ay 23] Ay p “ 4 a 4 Db S o>] | B A — <> i] — ay eal Q > yi ia i Be! ae alt sie # i ie a ii 22 On 25 FRAGMENTS OF ANCIENT POTTERY FROM THK GILA AND SALINAS.—P- PIMO. VILLAGES. 255 and his tribe—setting forth that he was the head chief, that his people were friendly to the Americans, and requesting all should respect them and treat them kindly. The earliest of these, was from Colonel St. George Cooke. This chief was about 50 years of age, with a fine, amiable expression of countenance, and a quiet and dignified manner. He was greatly beloved by his people, who showed him more deference than I had ever seen extended by Indians to their supe- riors, I told this chief who we were, and the object of our visit. He readily comprehended my meaning, and referred to the surveying parties under Mr. Gray and Lieutenant Whipple, which had been operating here during the winter. I told him that, having completed the work, we were now on our return to the United States; and that having heard of his kind treatment of the Americans who had passed through the villages of his people on their way to California, I wished to see all the chiefs of his tribe and present to them afew articles, as a token of the respect which the American government entertained for them. I added, that I would be ready to receive them the following morning. July 9th. The day had scarcely dawned when I was awoke by a chattering of strange voices around my tent; on putting out my head, I found to my surprise, that, although it was but 4 o'clock, the Pimo chiefs were already on the spot. This was a little too early _ for business, and besides, I was not prepared for the Proposed conference. It would have been impolite to send them back; so I requested them to wait until I had taken my breakfast, which would be in about three 256 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND hours. They seemed well content with the delay, and the opportunity it gave them to stroll around the camp, and inspect the several culinary processes, from that of the Mexican arrieros with their queer dishes, to the cuisine of the officers, where, if there was no great variety of food, there was to them a curious display of iron, tin, and copper cooking utensils, with some articles for the table that attracted their attention. At eight o'clock, I was ready to receive the depu- tation of the Pimo chiefs. The largest tent in the com- mission had been pitched for the purpose. The ends and sides were opened and rolled up, and trunks placed for the chiefs to sit upon. There were altogether six chiefs, including Cola Azul, besides two interpre- ters. The latter were absolutely necessary, as there were no Pimos who spoke Spanish. Tumaams, the elder of the interpreters, was born of Pimo and Maricopa parents, and spoke both languages. He therefore repeated what the Pimo chiefs said, to a Maricopa, named Mis-ke-tai-ish, who spoke Spanish ; and I com- municated with him. This was a roundabout way of talking; but there was no alternative. At the opp? site end of the tent were the officers of the Commission. — On the outside were congregated crowds of Indians, both Pimos and Coco-Maricopas; for the latter had followed us, and were nearly as numerous as when we were among them. It was quite an animated scene; — the women, with their children, equalled the men 2 number, having come to do a little shopping after the business with the chiefs had been dispatched. I stated to them as briefly as possible, that the Americans had heard from General Kearney, Colonel PIMO VILLAGES. ; 257 Cooke, and others, who had passed through their coun- try on their way to California, of the friendly disposi- tion the Pimos had manifested towards them. That the surveying parties belonging to the Boundary Com- mission, had also spoken favorably of them. That I - was hot an Indian Agent, such as the United States often sent to make treaties with the tribes, and to dis- tribute presents; but was in command of a party from the American government to trace the Boundary line which separated the United States from Mexico. That having been to California, and completed this duty, I was then on my return to the United States, and should remain a few days with them, to give my animals rest, as well as to procure corn for them, and vegetables for my party. That I also wished to purchase of them, Specimens of the various articles which they made, such ‘as their blankets, baskets, pottery, bows and arrows, &c., to show to the American people, that they might see what they could do; and that, for these I would give them in exchange, binkkets cotton shirts, and other articles. Furthermore, I told them, as an evidence of my good feelings sowards them, and in consideration of the kind treatment they had extended — to the Americans, I would present to each of them < and to the interpreters, some shirts and cotton cloth. _ To these I added, for Cola Azul, blankets, calico, a and trinkets for his wife and children. Before separ t- ing, I requested them to exert themselves in endeav-— cring to obtain the liberation of the two Americ girls (Mr. Oatman’s daughters) who had been abled into ae by the be one or . Indians, not nhown to m VOL. anes 258 : AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND They were much pleased with these trifling pre- sents, reiterated their expressions of friendly feelings | towards the Americans, and said they would do all in their power to recover the two girls. They believed the Tonto Apaches to have been the murderers of their: parents. I told them of the intention of the government to establish a military post near them on the Gila, which would protect them from further attacks. of the Apaches. This pleased them much. After the confererice was ended, trading com- menced with much briskness. The same articles were bought of them as from the Maricopas, and we were . enabled, without difficulty, to obtain all the corn that was necessary for the mules of the whole train. One of their baskets we agreed upon with them for a measure, a certain number of which was the value of a yard of white cotton ora particular kind of shirt. This was quite satisfactory to them ; and a much larger quantity of corn was brought in than we were able to take. When we had nearly completed our purchases, Francisco, the Maricopa chief and interpreter, came in and again interfered; but the Pimos did not regard him, and manifested much pleasure when I ordered him out of the camp. They did not like his officious- ness, and said he always thrust himself forward when- ever a party of Americans or Mexicans came along; and managed fo get whatever they had to give away or barter, much to their disadvantage. July 10th. Three Mexican traders arrived this morning from Tucson, opened their goods at one 0 the villages, and for a while drew most of the Indians from us. Towards evening they returned, and for the PIMO VILLAGES, 259 few things we wanted, they now asked more than double their former prices. Green corn, which we had bought for one dollar a hundred, in the ear, they now ‘asked four dollars for, and other things in proportion. We had, however, procured every thing we required, except mules, which we were much in want of. These they had promised to bring us, but had failed to do so, Lieutenant Whipple joined us to-day, having com- pleted his notes and plottings, and we are again en- camped together. July 12th. As the escort under Lieutenant Paige furnished ‘me by Major Heintzelman at Fort Yuma, had accompanied us as far as was deemed necessary, that officer made arrangements to set out on his return ‘ to the Colorado this morning, with his command. I availed myself of the opportunity to communicate with the government, and advise it of the successful com- pletion of the Survey of the river Gila. We were now to leave the Gila and strike across a desert of ninety miles, where there is said to be neither grass nor water, before we should reach Tucson, the extreme outpost of the Mexicans. I deemed it advi- sable, therefore, to move our camp to the farthest point on the Gila, before attempting to cross this jornada. The Mexican traders who arrived yesterday said they had found no water the entire distance; and unless it should rain, of which there was some prospect, (although we had seen none for two months) our ani- mals would undergo great hardships in crossing it. We accordingly set out after breakfast this morning, .passing through the last of the Pimo villages and their 960 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. cultivated fields; and, after following the road for twelve miles, turned short off to the north, and en- camped for the last time on the banks of the Gila. The. river was here-much contracted, with steep banks fif- teen feet high, and completely overhung with willows and cotton-woods, the latter from the opposite banks, meeting at the top. Its width was less than fifty feet, and its greatest depth did not exceed nine inches. It moved sluggishly along, was well charged with mud, and uncomfortably warm to bathe in. The bottom | lands were three quarters of a mile in width on the south side, where we encamped, with a rich soil, and filled with mezquit trees. But few Indians came in to-day, as we were between six and eight miles’ above their most easterly village. Those who ventured to follow us, said that it was un- safe to go so far from home unless in large numbers, as bands of the Apaches were constantly hanging about near their villages, watching every opportunity to send an arrow through them, or rob them of their animals. It was so exceedingly hot to-day, that after reaching camp, we lay under the deep shade of the willows, on the river’s bank, without pitching our tents. . INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GRANDES, 261 . CHAPTER XXXIL oes. INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GRANDES. — History of the Coco-Maricopas and Pimos—Origin of their semi-civiliza- tion—Difference of Janguages—Their number—Physical peculiarities— Deserving the attention of Christians and ohilanthropiste!--Radly ac- counts of these Indians—First described by Father Kino in 1697— Sedelmayer’s visit to them in 1744—Father Font’s in 1775—Visit to the Casas ~~ of the Gila—Description of these ruins—Evidences of a former large population—Irrigating canals—Broken pottery— Father Font’s description of their buildings—Singular error in relation to their dimensions—Kino and Mangi’s visit to Hea in 1694—Notion of the Aztec origin of these buildings not well founded—Exceasive heat. Hayne n now left these peaceable semi-civilized Indians, a few general ee respecting them seem to be required. Some writers have endeavored to point out physi cal differences between the Pimos and their allies the Coco-Maricopas; but I must confess, that after being constantly with them for thirteen days, I was © u nabl . to distinguish one from the other, except by some slig difference in the method of wearing their hair. “Their modes of life, as before remarked, are the same, with : the exception of their funeral rites. In the valley, oe rather bottom-land, which they occupy, there is no ye Qo INDIANS OF THE GILA, dividing line between them ; nor is there any distin- -guishihg character in their villages. I consider that the arts of spinning and weaving, and of making pottery, now practised by both tribes, and in which they are | equally expert, originated with the Pimos, who inher- ited this knowledge from their ancestors; and that from the earliest period, doubtless for centuries, they have occupied portions of the same valley where we now find them. In leaving their villages, I noticed on the edge of the plateau traces of former habitations, which had been abandoned for a great length of time. : The Coco-Maricopas took up their abode in the valley immediately adjoining the Pimos about thirty years since, from a point lower down the Gila, where they were exposed to the constant attacks of the Yumas and Apaches, which tribes, in consequence of their greater numbers, had nearly annihilated them. They came hither for protection, and formed an alliance, offensive and defensive, with the Pimos. They found the latter possessing the arts of weaving, of. building more comfortable dwellings, of making better pottery, enjoying a more peaceful mode of life, than that to which they had been accustomed. These arts and habits the Maricopas gradually adopted. Their lan- guages are totally different, so much so that I was . enabled to distinguish them when spoken. The former is soft and melodious, the latter harsh and guttural. The Pimos bury their dead, while the Coco Maricopas burn theirs. These peculiarities stamp them as distinct nations. ao aes _ I have not cited the agriculture of these tribes as superior to that of all other Indians; although I may » AND THE CASAS GRANDES. . 263 be safe in saying, that the system is more extensively and methodically practised than elsewhere. The Yu- mas, and other tribes on the Colorado irrigate their lands, and raise wheat, corn, melons, etc. The Mogquis and the Navajos, far to the north, do the same; and the warlike Apaches, who are more nomadic in their habits than any tribe west of the Rocky Mountains, raise corn when driven to extremities. But the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas have made agriculture more of a system. Their lands are better Srvigealocl their crops are larger, and the flour which they make from their — Wheat and maize is quite as good as the Mexicans make, except in their grist-mills. Tam inclined to think that Major Emory in his Report has greatly over-estimated the number of these people. “He states, that ‘the population of the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas together is estimated variously at from three to ten thousand, and that ‘ the first is evi- dently too low.”* From information obtained from the chiefs, and the Mexican officers in Sonora, I should not place them above two thousand. Captain John- ‘Ston,+ another officer attached to the army under - General Kearney’s command, in estimating them as embracing ‘“ over two thousand souls,” came very near the mark. Of the number stated by me, I was ae that two thirds were Pimos. Their complexion is a dark brown, differing oes that of the red-skins east of the Rocky Mountains, and from the olive cast of the California tribes. The women have good figures, with full chests and finely ’ Emory’s Report, p. 86. t Johnston’s Report, p. 599. , INDIANS OF THE GILA, formed limbs, owing, in a measure, to the burdens they carry on their heads.) The men have small and slender limbs, and, in their physical development, are quite inferior to the tribes between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains. This is readily accounted for by their different modes of life. The Pimos exhi- bit a great simplicity of character, more so, I think, than the Maricopas, preferring to lead the quiet lives of agriculturists to the roving and predatory habits of the Apaches, Comanches, Navajos, and others. But although they do not like wars, they are by no means cowards, and do not hesitate to march against their enemies, the Apaches, when it becomes necessary. There are no tribes of Indians on the continent of North America more deserving of the attention of philanthropists than those of which I am speaking. None have ever been found further advanced in the arts and habits of civilized life. None exhibit a more peaceful disposition, or greater simplicity of character; and certainly none excel them in virtue and honesty. They are quite as industrious as their necessities require them to be. Possessing no market for the sale of their produce, they raise but little more than is necessary to supply their own wants. To do this, with a soil of great fertility, and water at their command, requires but little labor. Hence, after their crops 4° in, they have nothing to do until the season arrives tO gather, them. Their granaries are then filled with wheat, corn, beans, pumpkins, squashes, mezquit beans (their substitute for sugar), and the fruit of the peta haya ; and after that, they undergo another long season of inactivity. Our Missionary Societies and Boards of Be AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 265 Education could not devote a portion of their means to a more worthy object, than to send ‘teachers and mechanics among this interesting people before they become contaminated by intercourse with the whites, and the seeds of evil are sown, which, when ripened, will exert the same baneful influence upon them as they have upon all other aboriginal tribes, leading to their degradation and final extinction. They will be found willing pupils, having. expressed a great desire to be taught to read, and to obtain a knowledge of © the mechanic arts. Among the Indians visited by Coronado and Marco de Niza, about the middle of the sixteenth century, in their extensive journeys through the regions between the Rio Grande and the Pacific, although it is certain that the former crossed the Gila, I am unable to dis- cover any allusion to the Pimos, or to the district occupied by them. In the diary of an expedition made by the ensign Juan Mateo Mangi, who accompa- nied Father Kino, in the year 1697, after visiting the Casa Grande (of which I shall hereafter speak), he says: ‘On the margin of the river, distant one league from the Casa Grande, we found a town in which we counted one hundred and thirty souls.”* The author continues : “ Having traversed four leagues, we arrived at the town of Tusonimon, which isso named from a great heap of horns, from the wild or sylvan sheep, which appears like a hill; and from the number that * I am indebted for this extract to Mr. Schooleraft’s valuable work on the Indian Tribes, vol. iii, p. 301. It is from a manuscript in the archives of the City of Mexico, from which it was copied by Bucking- ham Smith, Esq., Secretary of the United States Legation. 266. _ INDIANS OF THE GILA, there are of the animals, they make the common sub- sistence of the inhabitants. From what can be seen of the highest of these houses, there appears to be a country of more than a hundred thousand hastas in extent.* , “The heathen Indians received us with jubilee, giving of their provisions to the soldiers; and we counted two hundred persons, who were gentle and affable. Remaining there to sleep, the Father and I instructed them, through the interpreters, in the mys- teries of our Holy Faith; on which they besought us that there might be baptized fifteen of their children and seven sick adults.” Four leagues from the Casa Grande would bring us about to the spot where we were then encamped, and near to the villages of the Pimos, which, in former times, extended much further up the Gila than they do at present. The great country which the writer saw here was doubtless the plain where the villages now stand, and the great plain to the north, extending twenty-five or thirty miles to the Salinas. But Alegro,+ in recounting the arduous labors of Father Kino, relates other particulars of the Pimos and - Coco-Maricopas, and the interviews between them an this zealous missionary. Kino found, in’ 1698, the most friendly relations existing between them, and . noticed the difference in their languages and dress. But their manners and customs were the same; and * Measure of a lance, about three yards in length. + Hist. de la Compaiiia de Jesus en Nueva Espaiia, tom. iii., PP- s mare... . | | { | AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 267 the worthy Father particularly noticed ‘ their peace- ‘fulness and their gentleness.”’ They were alike desi- rous to be baptized and instructed, a desire that Kino willingly gratified. He estimates their numbers at four thousand ; but whether or not this includes both tribes, is not clear. They then irrigated their lands as now; and had large cultivated fields of wheat. The Coco- Maricopas were then situated beyond the Pimos, pro- bably on the Salinas and Gila, below the junction. Father Kino, in another expedition to the Gila, took with him two Pimo Indians from the mission at Ures to act as his interpreters, which enabled him to com- municate freely with these tribes. —. In an anonymous manuscript of a Jesuit, dated 1764, descriptive of Sonora, where he lived many years as a missionary, the writer speaks of the Pimos, who were on the precise spot where we now find them inhabiting both margins of the Gila. ‘The towns of that people,” he says, ‘‘ which occupy ten leagues of the mild vale along it, with some islands, abound in wheat, maize, ete, and yield much cotton; to them also is referred the fabrication of the finest kinds of pottery, Whose remains form one of the archeological indica-— tions of the Gila valley.” ee: _ But the most circumstantial account of the Pimos — 1s that of Father Pedro Font, who, with Father Garces, — made, in 177576, a journey from the Presidio of Oreasitas, in Sonora, to Monterey, in California, of — * Extract from a MS. entitled, “ Descripcion Geografica Natural y osa de la Provincia de Sonora. Por un Amigo del Servicio de Dios. Atio de 1764,” in Mr, Schooleraft’s History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian Tribes, before referred to, vol. iii. p- 304. : Curi 268 INDIANS OF THE GILA, which I have before spoken. They passed down the Gila, which river they struck about ‘the place where | we were now encamped. The towns were then called Uturitue and Sutaguison. I now quote from the jour- nal of Father Font, a manuscript copy of which is in my possession : November Ist. 1775. We left the laguna at half-past nine A. M., and at one Pp. Mm. arrived at Uturituc. The Indians (according to my calculation about one thou- sand) received us in two files, the men on one side, the women on the other; and when we alighted, they all came by turns to salute us, and shake hands with us, first the men.and then the women ; and they manti- fested great joy at seeing us. They lodged us in @ large shed of boughs, which they erected on purpose, and (although Gentiles) planted a large cross in front thereof, and then went and fetched water to the camp for the people. “ November 2d. This being All. Souls’ day, we three priests said nine masses. We lett Uturituc at, 1l a.m, and at 3 p.m. stopped on the banks of the Gila, near the town of Sutaguison, having travelled about four leagues. The inhabitants of the pueblo (town), some five thousand souls, came out to receive and salute us with demonstrations of great joy- On the road we passed two other pueblos.” At the period referred to, it appears that the Coco: Maricopas were not with the Pimos; but in journeyi"s down the Gila, at the distance of seventeen leagues from the villages’ of the latter, our travellers met wit a tribe whom they call the Opas ; and fifteen leagues farther, they encountered the Coco-Maricopas, Wie? AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 269 says Font, “are the same as the Opas.” By following the course of the river, which it appears the Fathers did, the thirty-two leagues they travelled from the Pimos, would bring them to the western end of the jornada, where they found the Coco-Maricopas. It has been asserted that ‘‘the Maricopas have removed gradually from the Gulf of California to their present location in juxta-position with the Pimos.”* I cannot learn that they ever were on the Gulf; although it appears from the missionary authorities, that there was a band of them on the western bank of the Colorado, ‘“ living in a valley thirty-six leagues in length, and, for the space of nine leagues, remarkably fertile and pleasant,” who were “allied to the Coco- Maricopas of the Gila.” But from the early accounts of the Indian tribes on the Gila, it appears they occu- pied the valley from a point west of the jornada, where Father Font found them in 1775, to the Salinas above its mouth. Father Sedelmayer met them in 1744, about the same place on the Gila, living on peaceful . terms with the Pimos, and used them for his guides to the Colorado. It appears that at this time, too, they were living on the Salinas, in the very district that we passed over in our visit to the ruins on that river. _ Inhis description of this country, Venegas + speaks of the river Assumption, which he says, is “ composed of two rivers, the Salado and Verde.”. These, on their * Emory’s Report, p. 89. : t The Salinas, where it unites with the Gila, was originally called. the Assumption, The San Francisco, which enters the latter from the horth about forty-five miles from its mouth, was called the Verde (green) and also the Azul (blue) river. 270 INDIANS OF THE GILA, way to the Gila, run through a very pleasant country of arable land, inhabited by the Coco-Maricopas, who are separated from the Pimos by a desert, although united to them in consanguinity. Their kingdom is bounded on the west by a desert and mountainous country, extending. to the rancherias of the Yumas, who live along the river Colorado, but. below its junction with the Gila.” * | It therefore appears that the Coco-Maricopas were found early in the last century on the opposite side of the jornada, or desert of forty-five miles, which reaches to the villages of the Pimos; and that thence they ex- tended east, occupying the banks of the Salinas, to a point north of the latter, from which, as Venegas says, ‘they were separated by a desert.” They also tra- versed the country south of the Gila, where they are — often located on the early maps. It is not. my intention in this work to enter mto any ethnological: disquisitions respecting these In dians; as they will form the subject-matter of another work. I will merely observe that, notwithstanding the deadly hostility existing between the Coco-Marico- pas and Yumas, their languages are nearly the same. The Comeya, or Diegenos, of the Pacific coast, will also be found closely allied to them. July 12th. In the hope that the Pimos might bring us in some mules, as promised, I determined to remain another day before leaving the Gila, and to employ = * Venegas, History of California. Vol. IL p. 184. See also Cla- vigero, Storia de California. Hervas, Catalogo de las Lenguas. Vol. 1. pp. 337 to 343. AND THE CASAS GRANDES. rags in making a visit to the celebrated ‘‘ Casa Grande” or “Casa de Montezuma,” as it was called by our Indian | friends, alike with all other ancient remains in the coun- - try. I left early this sie ae accompanied by Dr. Webb ‘and Mr. Thurber, taking as guides two Pimo Indians, one of them Misketatish, MS: spoke Spanish. We were all mounted on mules. - After following the road for two miles, we turned to the east and struck General Kearney’s trail, which we found still deep and distinct, although but the trail of a single file. It is sunk three or four inches in the hard gravel plain; and as it will continue to be followed by other parties passing along the Gila, as well as by the Indians, it may exist for centuries, an enduring monument of that remarkable campaign. General Kearney had with him a mountain howitzer. The narrow ruts made by the wheels were as distinet as though it had just passed along; the six . years which had elapsed since the march of that. officer, have scarcely begun to deface them. After following this trail in an easterly direction, about eight miles across the plateau, which was covered with small mezquit trees, we turned off to the south- east. Another mile brought us to the building of . which we are in. search, rising above a forest of mez- quit. For two or ake miles - eee reaching it, I had: noticed quantities of broken pottery, as well as the traces of ancient acequias or irrigating canals, along the bottom -land, portions of which we occaameialls crossed on our left. This bottom is a continuation of that occu-- ‘pled by the Pimos, although much narrower, it being only a mile in width near the ruins. It is thickly yo INDIANS OF THE GILA, covered with mezquit-trees from twelve to twenty feet in height; among those on the plateau, the tall and graceful petahaya occasionally thrusts forth its thorny arms, like so many solitary columns or giant candela- bra. The bright walls of the ancient edifice presented a striking contrast with the deep green foliage of the trees which surrounded it. The ‘Casas Grandes,” or Great Houses, consist of three buildings, all included within a space of one hun- dred and fifty yards. The principal and larger one is in the best state of preservation, its four exterior walls and most of the inner ones remaining. A considerable portion of the upper part of the walls has crumbled away and fallen inwards, as appears from the great quantity of rubbish and disintegrated adobe which fills the first story of the building. Three stories now stand and can plainly be made out by the ends of the beams remaining in the walls, or by the cavities which they occupied ; but I think there must have been another Story above, in .order to account for the crumbling walls and rubbish within. The central portion or tower rising from the foundation, is some eight or teD feet higher than the outer walls, and may have been several feet, probably one story, higher when the building was complete. The walls at the base are between four and five feet in thickness; their precise dimensions: could not be ascertained, so much having crumbled away. ‘The inside is perpendicular, while the exterior face tapers towards the top,ina curved line. These W alls, as well as the division walls of the interior, are. laid with large square blocks of mud, prepared for the put pose by pressing the material into large boxes about tW° AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 273 feet in height and four feet long. When the mud ‘became sufficiently hardened, the case was moved along and again filled, and so on until the whole edifice ‘was completed. This is a rapid mode of building ; but the Mexicans seem never to have applied it to any pur- pose but the erection of fences or division-walls. The material of this building is the mud of the valley, mix- ed with gravel. The mud is very adhesive, and when dried in the sun, is very durable. The outer surface of the wall appears to have been plastered roughly ; but the inside, as well as the surface of all the inner walls, is hard finished. This is done with a composition of adobe, and is still as smooth as when first made, and has quite a polish. On one of the walls are rude figures, drawn with red lines, but no inscriptions. From the charred ends of the beams which remain in the walls, it is evident that the building was destroyed by fire. Some of the lintels which remain over the doors are formed of several sticks of wood, stripped of their bark, but showing no signs of a sharp instrument. The beams which supported the floors, were from four to -five inches: in diameter, placed about the same distance apart, and inserted deeply in the walls. i Hieroglyphic, Most of the apartments are connected by doors, besides which there are circular openings in the upper VOL. 11.—18 & oe 274 INDIANS OF THE GILA, part of the chambers to admit light and air. The ground plan of the building shows that all the apart- ments were long and narrow without windows. The inner rooms, I think, were used as store-rooms for corn ; . * r in fact, it is a question whether the whole may not have been built for a similar purpose. There are four entrances, one in the centre of each side. The door on the western side is but two feet wide, and seven or eight high; the others three feet wide and five in height, tapering towards the top,—a peculiarity belonging to the ancient edifices of Central America and Yucatan. — With the exception of these doors, there are no exterior openings, except on the western side, where they are of a circular form. Over the doorway corresponding to the third story, on the western front, is an opening, where there was a window, which I think was square. In a line with this are two circular openings. The southern front has fallen in in several places, and is much injured by large fissures, yearly becoming er, so that the whole of it must fall ere long. The other three fronts are quite perfect. The walls at the base, particularly at the corners, have crumbled away to the extent of twelve or fifteen inches, and are on y held together by their great thickness. The moist- ure here causes disintegration to take place more rapidly than in any other part of the building; and in a few years, when the walls have become more undermined, the whole structure must fall, and become a mere rounded heap, like many other shapeless mounds which are seen on the plain. A couple of days’ labor spent 10 restoring the walls at the base with mud and gravel, would render this interesting monument as durable as SE yk = AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 275 brick, and enable it to last for centuries. How long it _ has been in this ruined state, is not known; we only know that when visited by the missionaries a century ago, it was in the same condition as at present. ‘The exterior dimensions of this building are fifty feet from north to south, and forty from east to west. On the ground floor are five apartments. Those on the north and south sides extend the whole width of . the building, and measure 32 by 10 feet. Between these are three smaller apartments, the central one being within the tower. All are open to the sky. There is no appearance of a stairway on any of the walls; whence it has been inferred that the means of ascent may have been outside. On the south-west of the principal building is a second one ina state of ruin, with hardly enough of the walls remaining to trace its original form. The accompanying greund-plan will show what portions of the walls are standing. The dark lines represent the erect walls, the faint lines the heaps of fallen ones. _ The central portion, judging from’ the height of the present walls, was two stories high; the outer wall, which can only be estimated from the debris, could not _ have been more than a single story. | North-east of the main building is a third one, smaller than either of the others, but in such an utter state of decay that its original form cannot be deter- : mined. It is small, and may have been no more than — 4 watch tower. In every direction as ih as can reach, are seen heaps of ruined edifices portions of their walls standing. To the about two hundred — distant, i is a circular embank- 276 INDIANS OF THE GILA, ment from eighty to one hundred yards in circumfer- ence, which is open in the centre, and is probably the remains of an inclosure for cattle. For miles around these in all directions, the plain is strewn with broken pottery and metates or corn-grinders. The pottery 1s red, white, lead-color, and black. The figures are Ground Plan of Cases Grandes, Rio Gila, usually geometrical and formed with taste, and in character are similar to the ornaments found on the pottery from the ruiris on the Salinas and much further north. Much of this pottery is painted on the inside, a peculiarity which does not belong to the modern pottery. In its texture too, it is far superior. I col- lected a quantity of these fragments, from which I selected the larger pieces. Those containing the most BITRE ne nee Saar wn Te ee AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 277 interesting patterns are represented in the accompany- ing engraving. The origin of these buildings is shrouded in mys- tery. They were found much as they now appear by the earliest explorers of the country, who were told by the Indians that they had been built five hundred years before. One thing is evident, that at some former period the valley of the Gila, from this ruin to the western extremity of the rich bottom-lands now occu- pied by the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas, as well as the broad valley of the Salinas, for upwards of forty miles, was densely populated. The ruined buildings, the irrigating canals, and the vast quantities of pottery of a superior quality, show that, while they were an agri- cultural people, they were much in advance of the Present semi-civilized tribes of the Gila. But this civi- lization extended far beyond the district named. From information given me by Leroux, it appears that ruins of the same sort exist on the San Franci&co or Verde River; and Captain Johnston and Major Emory both saw similar evidences of wide-spread population far above the district in question. What connection this ancient people had with the Moquis and Zuiiis, and with the “seven cities of Cibola,” visited by Marco de Niza and Coronado, remains to be settled. This is strictly an ethnological question, requiring evidences and arguments which do not properly belong to this Work. So with regard to the identification of particu- lar tribes yet in existence as the descendants of thi ancient race, philology renders us the most reliable aid. But I have omitted speaking of philological ana- logies, as they belong to another topic, and would 278 INDIANS OF THE GILA, occupy too much space to be introduced here. Little has yet been done for the ethnology of the Indian tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, except by Mr. Hale, in his elaborate and admirable ‘ Ethnology and Philology of the United States Exploring Expedition.” But I have reason to believe, that when the various lan- guages of Mexico, California, and of the tribes between the Colorado and New Mexico, are subjected to a rigid examination and comparison, some interesting facts will be deduced. The most detailed of the early accounts of the ruins on the Gilais that of Father Pedro Font, to whose interesting and reliable journal I have before alluded. As these ruins have been misunderstood by many, and an important error propagated respecting them, I will give an extract from the diary of this missionary from the manuscript copy obtained by me in Califor- nia: “The Commandant determined that we should rest to-day, and thus we had an opportunity to ex- amine the large building called Montezuma’s House, situated at the distance of one league from the river Gila, and three leagues E.S.E. of the laguna. We were accompanied thither by some Indians, and by — the Governor of Uturituc, who on his way related to us a ‘history and tradition respecting said house, handed down from their forefathers, and composed altogether of fiction confusedly mixed with eset Catholic truths We carefully examined this edifice .and its ruins, the iconographical plan of which I here lay down; and the better to understand it, I give the following explanation and description : AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 279 ‘The large house or palace of Montezuma, accord- ing to the histories and meagre accounts of it which we have from the Indians, may have been built some five hundred years ago: for, as it appears, this building _ was erected by the Mexicans, when, during their transmigration, the Devil led them through various countries until they arrived at the promised land of Mexico; and in their sojourns, which were long ones, they formed towns and built edifices. The site on which this house is built is level on all sides, and at the dis- — tance of about one league from the river Gila, and the ruins of the houses which composed this town extend more than a league towards the east and other cardi- nal points; and all this land is partially covered with pieces of pots, jars, plates, etc.; some common, and others painted of different colors, white, blue, red, etc.; which is a sign that this has been a large town, inhabited by a distinct people from the Pimos of the river Gila, who do not know how to manufacture such earthenware. We made an exact survey of this edi- fice, and of its situation, which we measured in the mean time with a lance; and this measure I after- wards reduced to geometrical feet, which gave a little more or less than the following result: “ The house forms an oblong square, facing exactly to the four cardinal points, east, west, north, and South; and round about it there are ruins, indicating a fence or wall, which surrounded the house and other buildings, particularly in the corners, where it appears there has been some edifice like an interior castle or watch-tower; for in the angle which faces towards the South-west there stands aruin, with its divisions and an 280 INDIANS OF THE GILA, upper story. The exterior wall extends from north to south four hundred and twenty feet, and from east to west two hundred and sixty feet. The interior of the house consists of five halls; the three middle ones being of one size, and the two extreme ones longer. The three middle ones are twenty-six feet in length from north to south, and ten feét in breadth from east ‘to west. The two extreme ones measure twelve feet from north to south, and thirty-eight feet from east to west.’”* The Casa Grande, as described in this extract from Father Font, has been alluded to by many authors, and the dimensions, as given by him, quoted; but all have mistaken the meaning of the writer in the dimen- sions. He speaks of the house around which “there are ruins, indicating a fence or wall which surrounded the house and other buildings; ” and then goes on to say, that ‘‘the exterior wall extends from north to south four hundred and twenty feet, and from east to west two hundred and sixty feet.” Nearly all the writers who refer to the building (and there are many, among which may be named Baron Humboldt him- self*), quote these dimensions of the ‘‘fence” or “eX terior wall,” as those of the edifice itself. It is poss ble that the manuscript referred to by Baron Hum- boldt differed from that in my possession ; for the extract from Font’s journal, contained in Mr. School- craft's work on the Indian tribes, says: ‘‘ The exterior * Father Pedro Font’s Journal from Orcasitas, in Sonora, t0 Mon- — s. terey, California, in 1775, °76, 77. t Political Essay on New Spain, vol. ii. p. 301. AND THE CASAS GRANDES. . a wall of the house is four hundred and twenty feet,” etc.* What follows clearly shows this to be an error; for it says, ‘‘the interior of the house. consists of five halls,” and then gives the dimensions of each apartment, which nearly correspond with my admeasurement.+ Mr. Gallatin is the only writer, as far as I know, who understood the greater dimensions alluded to as referring to an exterior wall. After giving the size of the building and its apartments from Father Font, he says, ‘‘ Around the whole there are indications of an _ external wall, which included the house and other buildings,” four hundred and twenty by two hundred and sixty feet. t The earliest account of this building is that of Mangi, who, in company with Father Kean visited it in the year 1694, on which occasion he said mass in it.§ His relation also exists only in manuscript. “ There ‘was one great edifice,” says he, “with the principal room in’ the middle of four stories, and the adjoining -Tooms on its four sides of three stories, with the walls two yards in thickness, of strong mortar and clay, so smooth and shining within that they appear like bur- ‘hished tables, and so polished that they shone like the ~ earthenware of Puebla. “At the distance of an arquebuss shot twelve other " Font’s admeasurement was in Spanish geometrical ~~ intecoom at fer from the English foot of twelve inches. es Condition, and Prospect of the Indian Tibes, vol. i. p. 3 coe of Amer. Ethnol. Society, vol. ii. p. 86. § See extract from. Mangi’s Diary, i in Schooleraft’s History and Con- dition of the Indian Tribes, vol. iii, p. 301. 282 INDIANS OF THE GILA, houses are to be seen, also half fallen, having thick walls, and all the ceilings burnt, except in the lower room of one house, which is of round timbers, smooth and not thick, which appeared to be of cedar or savin, and over them sticks of very equal size, and a cake of mortar and hard clay, making a roof or ceiling of great ingenuity. In the environs are to be seen many other ruins and heaps of broken earth, which circumscribe it two leagues, with much broken earthenware of plates and pots of fine clay, painted of many colors, and which resemble the jars of Guadalajara, in Spain. It may be inferred that the population or city of this body politic was very large; and that it was of one government is shown by a main canal, which comes from the river by the plain, running around for the distance of three leagues, and inclosing the inhab- itants in its area, being in breadth ten varas,* and » about four in depth, through which perhaps was* ‘directed one half the volume of the river, in sucha. manner that it might serve for a defensive moat, as well as to supply the wards with water, and irrigate the plantations in the adjacencies.” By the foregoing extracts it will be seen that these ‘buildings were in much the same condition as that in which we now see them, although a century and a half has elapsed since Mangi’s visit. He was told of other ruins “a day’s journey to the north on another stream” flowing into the Gila, which were doubtless those on the Salinas that I have described. * About twenty-seven feet. See also Alegro’s Hist. de la Compa- iia de Jesus, en Nueva Espafia, tom. iii. p. 84. AND THE CASAS GRANDES. ‘283 I have been unable to learn from what source the prevailing idea has arisen of the migration of the Aztecs, or ancient Mexicans, from the north into the valley of Mexico, and of the three halts they made in their journey thither. This is another idea which has been so widely promulgated that it has settled down into an acknowledged fact, although I confess I have Seen no satisfactory evidence of its truth. People have got too much in the way of ascribing all ancient remains to the Aztecs. We hear of them on the shores of Lake Michigan, where some have located the famous city of Aztlan. Other remains are spoken of in the Navajo country, south of the Great Salt Lake, where the Aztecs are said to have tarried a while. Again they are placed at the “Casas Grandes,” on the Gila; whence they. are supposed to have gone to a place north of the city of Chihuahua, where extensive remains are said to exist. The traditions Which gave rise to this notion are extremely vague, and were not seriously entertained until Torquemada, Boturini, and Clavigero gave them currency, but they must now give way to the more reliable results from linguistic comparisons. No analogy has yet been traced between the language of the old Mexicans: and any tribe at the north in the district from which they are supposed to have come; nor in any of the relics, Ornaments,.or works of art, do we observe a* resem- blance between them. The explorations and investi- gations recently made, and others now in progress, may throw further light on this subject, which I shall now dismiss, After three hours spent at the ruins, the hottest, I 284 INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GRANDES. think, I ever experienced, we set out on our return to camp. Our Indian companions, having got out of water (of which we had none to spare), set off in advance to reach the river, and there wait for us. They were quite reluctant to go alone even a couple of miles, for fear of the Apaches ; and I doubt whether they would have ventured even then without us, had they not been driven to do so by extreme thirst. As our canteens were all exhausted before leaving, we were obliged to follow their example. We found the river's bank about fifteen feet high, and so abrupt that it was with some difficulty we reached the water. After following the route by which we came, and crossing on our way several of the old irrigating canals, from which the ancient people who occupied the valley derived their water, we reached our camp at three o’clock, much fatigued though amply repaid by our day’s excursion. The mercury had stood in the shade, beneath the trees, at 119° Fahrenheit, between the hours of ten and three o’clock. I found a few Indians in camp, among them a messenger from Francisco Dukey, the Maricopa inter- ” preter, who, ashamed to come himself, had sent an other to me, begging that I would give him a written recommendation to show to other Americans. His request was peremptorily refused. CASAS GRANDES TO SANTA CRUZ, 285 CHAPTER XXXIII. CASAS GRANDES TO SANTA ORUZ. Leave the Gila—Terrific storm on the desert—Encounter a party of Amer- icans at midnight—Stopped by the darkness—Unpleasant situation— Pack-mules and cattle missing—Picacho mountain—Vegetation of the desert—Second night’s march—Arrival at Tucson—General Blanco— Arrival of Mexican troopsp—Campaign against the Apaches—Meet Mr. Coons with 14,000 sheep—His disasters—Visit from Gen. Blanco and his officers—Repairs on wagons—Tucson and its valley—Meteorite— San Xavier del Bac—Beautiful church—Spanish and Anglo-Saxon col- onization—Incessant rains—Presidio of Tubac—Meet Inez Gonzales, the captive girl—Her sad fate—Uncertainty of irrigated lands—California emigrants—Calabasa—Picturesque valley—Tumacacori—San Lazaro— More emigrants—Reach Santa Cruz. July 13th. The heat continued excessive. The ther- © mometer had ranged every day since our arrival at the Maricopa and Pimo villages at from 100° to 119° between the hours of 10 and 3; in fact it had scarcely fallen below 100 between these hours since we struck the desert beyond the Colorado. During the week we were at Fort Yuma, as well as during. our journey, there was but little variation. The nights remained comfortable all the time; so that in the open air a single blanket was necessary. . 3 Having a long march before us, we left camp at half- past 4p. u., desiring to reach a mountain forty-five 286 CASAS GRANDES TO miles distant, or half way across the great jornada, the following morning, although we had little hope of find- ing water until we should get to Tucson. The mountain referred to is called the ‘“ Picacho,” a name applied to every high abrupt peak. Our course lay a little to the east of south, direct for the Picacho, across a vast open : plain. A short range of mountains on the west, within a mile of the road, was soon passed. On the east was a lofty range fifty miles distant, with no intervening ob- jects. The road was excellent; and our animals being fresh, we hurried them on as fast as it was prudent to do. As we progressed, there seemed to be a likeli- hood of rain, which was somewhat increased by a per- ceptible change in the air. ‘The prospect before us was dismal enough, in the midst of the wide-spreading desert; for by night-fall we had passed the mountains on our right, and were soon far from any landmark. As the sun sank below the horizon, the dark cloud- bank which we had observed far to the south ascended, and we could see the rain already falling on the dis- tant mountain. Night now set in; the thick clouds rose higher and higher, and before nine o'clock had completely obscured every star. Shrouded as we were in darkness, it was no easy matter to find our way through the low mezquit bushes scattered over the desert. But nature’s light-house opened its portals, and the vivid lightning flashed around us; SO that the black mountain, our beacon in this desert, seemed constantly before us. Up to this time I had taken the lead in my wagon ; but as my mules became alarmed, rendering it impossible to get along,I placed Mr. Lerous, who rode a milk-white mule, immediately before mine. SANTA CRUZ. 287 ‘His animal could be seen, and all followed him. Peals of the most terrific thunder burst upon us, leaving scarcely an interval of repose. Next came violent gusts of wind, accompanied by clouds of sand and dust, reminding one of the African simoom. The wind was from the south, and brought the sand directly in our faces. To avoid it was impossible. Not a tree was to be seen; no ravine appeared where we could shelter ourselves ; and the nearest mountain was yet twenty miles off.. Lastly came torrents of rain, and this: ter- rific storm was at its height. Slowly we journeyed on, drenched to the skin, not- withstanding our overcoats and India rubber gar- ments. The march before us must be made, and the sooner the “‘ Picacho” was reached the better. To stop, was to endanger our animals; for no pools had yet been seen where the rain had accumulated, so that we had neither water nor grass to give them. At mid- night, in the midst of this extreme darkness and rain, Where one would about as soon expect to meeta human being as in the middle of the broad ocean, we were suddenly brought to a stand by the sound of voices! “Who comes there? Quien vive?” were quickly cried by a dozen voices in English and Spanish, andas — quickly answered, “Friends! Amigos! -Who are you? Where are you from? De donde viene?” etc., and ina moment we were surrounded by horsemen, pack-mules, and the accompaniments of a large party. Were they Indians, or Mexicans, or Americans—friends or enemies, ran through my mind, till the sound of English voices dissipated my apprehensions. It proved lobe a party of between forty and fifty Americans, 288 CASAS GRANDES TO bound for California. We stopped about ten minutes to exchange a few words, though we could not distin- guish faces. This we were, in a measure, compelled to do, to separate our animals from those of the passing train, for all were now mixed up together. The party was from Missouri, and had come by the way of El Paso. They gave us some news from the latter place, which was very acceptable. Inquiries were made by each party about the grass and water on the route, when, the animals becoming restive, we bade them adieu, and resumed our journey. Up to this time, the tempest had not in the least abated. Indeed the darkness seemed growing still thicker, while the flashes of lightning were becoming less frequent, which rendered it more difficult to keep on our course. After a longer interval than usual, the heavens were again lighted up, when I found myself going in an opposite direction to the right one, and the party much scattered. Leroux came up, and said that it was absolutely necessary to stop where we were; as some of the pack-mules were missing, and it was impossible to keep together or find our way in such impenetrable darkness. I accordingly had my mules taken out and hitched to my wagon; the same was done with the teams. All the pack-mules that could be found, were brought together ; and the horsemen fast- ened their animals wherever they could find a bush. Dr. Webb and myself remained quietly in our wagoD- In the midst of the storm Mr. Thurber, with a great deal of perseverance, succeeded in making a fire. This was done by taking the leaves of some books that had seen their best days, and protecting them from the * . SANTA CRUZ. co rain with an India rubber coat, until well lighted. To these was added some dry wood found in the wagons ; and when bushes were piled upon the whole, a blazing fire was the result. This served as a guide to our scattered people, some of whom had found themselves among the emigrating party, with their faces turned towards the Gila! j June 14th. As soon as we could.see, the animals. _ were mustered; when three mules with their packs, two donkeys, and our three remaining beef-cattle, were missing. Two Mexican arrieros were left to hunt up these animals, and the train resumed its journey. The road was now very muddy, and every depression in the desert became filled with water, making the travelling quite heavy. Soon after starting we met the rest of the party that we encountered in the night. They had become separated from those in advance, and had been com- pelled to await the return of day. Among them were several women on mules, who appeared to have had @ sorry time of it. The ‘ Picacho” was still far ahead; but after watering the animals, we pushed on, and at 11 o'clock reached its base, where we encamp- ed. T had been eighteen hours in my seat, and was glad to throw myself on the ground beneath the shade of a mezquit bush, and get some sleep. After an hour’s test I got up and made a fire for my cook, who was still deep in his slumbers; and by one o'clock we had our breakfast. This forty-five miles was the most fatiguing day’s journey we had yet had, including the “Xposure during the whole night to such a tempest of wind and rain. : VOL. 11—19 290 ; “CASAS GRANDES TO The vegetation of this desert is the same as that near the Gila, viz., dwarfish mezquit at intervals, larrea Mexicana, palo verde, and cacti; the great petahaya luxuriating as usual in the barrenness. A, tuft of grass was occasionally seen, and now and then some brilliant flower that had ventured to ‘““ waste its sweetness on the desert air.” “o7. Te — ewig see Picacho of the Tucson desert, from the South. ‘The mud holes here were filled with water, but S° turbid that we could not taste it. We had enough, however, in our canteens and kegs for drinking pur poses. There was quite a thicket of mezquit here, and SANTA CRUZ. 291° an excellent place fora camp. The animals found a tolerable supply of food in the tufts of grass, and mez- quit beans. : At 5o’clock in the afternoon we started again, although we had had but little rest. I would have remained till morning, but our water was nearly out. The road had by this time become quite dry, and we rolled on at a steady gait of three miles an hour. Soon after leaving, the sky became overcast, and we feared a repetition of the storm; but it did not occur, and, — although we had considerable difficulty in keeping our course, we were enabled to continue our journey through the entire night. ; July 15th. At 5 o'clock this morning, being in ad- vance of the train, we reached some mud holes contain- Ing a little water, which our thirsty animals drank with eagerness. During the night, many who were mount- ed on mules were so much fatigued as to be unable to retain their seats in their saddles; so dismounting, and tying their animals to the bushes, or to their bodies, they lay down on the desert, and refreshed themselves With a ‘couple of hours sleep. At seven, the wagons with the rest of the party came up; and, although but eight miles from Tucson, such was our fatigue after two long nights’ ride, that we determined to remain here to-day. Much to my regret, no tents were pitched ; for a heavy shower came up in the night, which wet most of the party to the skin. I was So fortunate as to make my bed beneath a wagon, Where, protected by an India rubber blanket, I passed 4 comfortable night, and scarcely knew of the rain that Was falling around me until morning. 292 CASAS GRANDES TO July 16th. Westarted with a heavy road, and made but slow progress. The wagons got mired several times in crossing arroyos, one of them sd deeply that it be- cathe necessary to unload it before it could be released; while another, in passing a deep gully, plunged so suddenly down, that the tongue was snapped off. ? _ We reached Tucson at ten o'clock, a.m. As we passed the garrison, a body of Mexican soldiers were entering, who had just arrived from the south ona - campaign against the Apaches. Among the officers standing at the gate I recognised Captain Barragan, who was in command at Santa Cruz when we reached that place in October last. Hearing from him that General Blanco was within, I left the train and accom- panied the Captain to pay my respects to him. General Blanco informed me that the depredations of the Apaches had lately been more frequent than ever. Many animals had been stolen in the immedi- ate vicinity of Tucson, Tubac, and Santa Cruz; and many Mexicans had lost their lives. The troops had had some skirmishes with the Indians, in which Coletto Amarillo, one of the chiefs who so frequently visited _us at the Copper Mines, was killed. The General fur- thermore told me that when on his march he fell upo™ a large Indian trail, and noticed among the footprints several made by new American shoes, which he readily distinguished from the Mexican shoes by their larger size and heels. He believed that there were Amer cans among them, or that they had: murdered and robbed some party of emigrants. In October, whe? | the weather should be cooler, and the rainy seaso? past, it was his intention to make a campaign ag ee a ae SANTA CRUZ. 7 eS) the Apaches on the Gila, and thence go to the Mogo- llon Mountains, near the Copper Mines. After half an hour spent with the General, I rode a mile from the town, and there found my party encamped on the banks of the Santa Cruz River, where there-was an abundance of grass. me Near our camp we found Mr. Coons, an American, on his way to San Francisco, with 14,000 sheep. For the protection of this large flock, he had sixty persons, ‘forty-five of whom were Americans, and fifteen Mexi- ae cans. He quieted our anxiety as to. grass" and water, — having found an abundance of both on his route, There had been much rain, and the grass was in conse- quence in fine condition. He had met many Indians near the Guadalupe Pass, but would not allow them to enter his camp. When nearJanos, a party of Apaches — rushed among them during the day, and succeeded in running off fourteen mules and horses. Mr. Coons was entirely unprepared for the attack, particularly as the rascals approached him from the town where -they had been. Before he could get a party mounted, the robbers had got a long start of them, which gent chase more animals, and strengthen his party ; detained him six weeks, His party was 0 armed, and he felt himself strong enough General Blanco with his staff, ar Officers from Tucson, escorted by a : called on me in the afternoon. Th well dressed and equipped, and 1 294 CASAS GRANDES TO appearance. I was by no means well prepared for the visit; for the wagon which contained my tent and baggage, being the one which had met with the acci- dent before mentioned, had not yet reached camp: I was therefore obliged to receive him in another and very small tent, not large enough for one half the officers who accompanied him. It began to rain too at the time, which added to my dilemma. However, there were other tents pitched, in which these gentle- men took refuge. General Blanco again spoke of our common enemy, the Apaches, and of operations against them. He recommended that the American troops should attack them north of the Gila, while the Mexi- cans should receive them as they came south for. refuge. I told him that my views agreed with those he had expressed, and that I had suggested a simt- lar plan of operation to the United States government in a recent dispatch sent from California. The General tendered me the use of his black- smith’s shop, and any other facilities I required to repair my broken wagons; of which I was very glad to avail myself, although we found it difficult to obtain apiece of wood for anew tongue. My little wagon also wanted repairs, and some of the animals required shoeing. There was, therefore, no alternative but to . remain here a day or two. I would: have regretted this delay more, had not the grass been so good that I believed the mules would be benefited by it. Jn the evening the rain set in hard, and continued during the night. But we were now in good tents, with water, grass, and wood atound us, so that we had no cause for complaint. SANTA CRUZ. 295 July 17th. Sent the wagons up to the town; but only one man was found who professed to be a black- smith, and could work upon them. Sent four of my men up to assist; but altogether they made little pro- gress, for the want of tools. e Tucson is the most northern town in Mexico, and a very old place. It is found on the oldest maps, and is referred to by the early missionaries. It has always been, and is to this day, a presidio or garrison ; but for which the place could not be sustained. In its best — days it boasted a population of a thousand souls, now diminished to about one third that number. It stands on the plateau adjoining the fertile valley watered by the Santa Cruz River, a small stream which rises ten miles north-east of the town of Santa Cruz, whence it flows south to that place. It then takes a westerly direction for about ten miles, after which it flows northward through Tubac and Tucson, and soon be- comes lost in the desert. The lands: near Tucson are very rich, and were once extensively cultivated; but the encroachments of the Apaches compelled the peo- ple to abandon their ranchos and seek safety within the town. The"miserable population, confined to such harrow limits, barely gains a subsistence, and could — hot exist a year but for the protection from the — troops. More than once the town has been invested _by from one to two thousand Indians, and attempts made to take it, but thus far without success. These Apaches have become reduced quite as much as the - Mexicans; so that two hundred warriors are about the largest force they can now collect. In addition to the river alluded to, there are some 296 - CASAS GRANDES TO springs near the base of a hill a mile to the west of the town, which furnish a copious supply of water. Near these is a hamlet, and a large hacienda, which in former times must.have been very rich. It is now in a decayed state, and but a small portion of its fine lands are cultivated. This hacienda is seen in the fore- ground of the annexed sketch of Tucson. Wheat, maize, peas, beans, and lentils are raised in perfection; while among the fruits may be named, apples, pears, peaches, and grapes. The only vege- tables we saw were onions, pumpkins, and beans; but in such a fertile valley all kinds will of course do well, The houses of Tucson are all of adobe, and the majority are in.a state of ruin. No attention seems to be given to repair; but as soon as a dwelling becomes uninhabitable, it is deserted, the miserable tenants | creeping into some other hovel where they may eke out their existence. We found three hundred soldiers in the place, although the average number for some years past has not exceeded twenty. The bottomdands are here about a mile in width. Through them run irrigating canals in évery direction, the lines of which are marked by rows of cotton woods and willows, presenting an agreeable land- seape. I ascended a rocky hill above the hacienda met tioned, about a quarter of a mile from our camp, had a fine view of the valley and surrounding country- This hill was covered with cacti of every variety, among which the petahaya was most prominent. The fouquiera, yucca, and agave, were also luxuriating SANTA CRUZ. 297 among the rocks; for scarcely a particle of soil could be seen. Below was the valley, its fields and acequias defined by the long lines of shrubbery and trees. The town is seen on the border of the plateau, where the desert begins, and stretches off to the east, to a high range of mountains about fifteen miles distant. In these mountains isa singular cliff of rocks resembling a huge castle. Like other mountain ranges, these take a south-easterly direction and extend nearly to the San Pedro. Directly south lies the valley of Santa Cruz, . presenting to the eye an agreeable contrast to the bar- ren mountains and the long line of desert on either side. 2 The two men left on the desert to hunt up the missing animals arrived to-day. They went back to the Pimo villages, and found the pack-mules following the emigrants that we had met. . July 18th. I went out this morning and completed my sketch of the valley and town from the hill visited yesterday. The men were still at work on the wagons, to be completed by evening. I bought some sheep here at three dollars ahead, as our live stock was getting low. In the afternoon I called to take leave of General — Blanco, and at the same time examine a remarkable meteorite, which is used for an anvil in the blacksmith’s - shop. This mass resembles native iron, and weighs about six hundred pounds. -Its greatest length is five . feet. Its exterior is quite smooth, while the lower part Which projects from the larger leg is very jagged and rough. It was found about twenty miles distant towards Tubae, and about eight miles from the road, ye CASAS GRANDES TO where we were told are many larger masses. The annexed drawing gives the appearance of this singular mass. There is another larger mass within the garrison grounds, of which I did not take a sketch. With much labor Dr. Webb broke off a fragment of this meteorite for the purpose of analysis. , Nearly all our Mexican arrieros got drunk to-day, and caused much disturbance in the town. I would have discharged them, but could find none to take their places. July 19th. We were off this morning before the sun had risen, and soon entered a thickly wooded val- ley of mezquit. A ride of nine miles brought, us to the mission of San Xavier del Bac; truly a miserable place, consisting of from eighty to one hundred huts, or wigwams, made of mud or straw, the sole occupants of which are Pimo Indians, though generally called Popagos. In the midst of these hovels stands the largest and most beautiful church in the State of Sonora. It is built of brick on the summit of a low . hill, and has two towers anda dome. In a square, around and directly connected with the church, are some adobe houses, which were occupied when the Mission was in a flourishing state. All save one are now tenantless, and this, which adjoins the church, is occu pied by the only Mexican family in the place. The train passed directly through, while a few of the gem tlemen and myself drew up at the church door 19 * examine its interior. This church has more pretensions. to architectural beauty than any I saw in the country, although its general character is the same. It is elaborately oT* i!" 7 i Va: METEORITE AT THE HACIENDA DE CONCEPCION, SHOWING OPPOSITE SIDES ‘ METEORITE AT TUCSON.—p. 298. SANTA CRUZ. : 299 mented inside and out, and contains many decorations new in architecture, partaking neither of the Greek, Roman, nor Gothic orders. Along the eaves is a row of queer looking creatures, the like of which cannot probably be found, even in this country of strange animals, The interior is gaudily painted; and from the profusion*of gilding, one might suppose the Mis- sion to have possessed a gold placer. Around the altar, and in the niches, are many wooden statues, - from the size of a foot to that of life. The poor Indian doubtless believed them all to be saints, and made his offerings accordingly, although about one half are statues of old Spanish cavaliers and figures of Chinese mandarins. There are besides angels and archangels, or figures intended to represent celestial beings with Wings, five or ‘six, feet high, springing from the walls. This church was built towards the close of the last cen- tury from the produce of the Mission lands, and is throughout in a good state of preservation. It appears - that there was a previous structure here, erected by Father Kino as early as 1700.* ; : What a marked difference there is in Spanish and English colonization! Here the zealous Missionary preceded all others, planting the cross along with the — banner of his country. Then commenced the work of baptizing ; and as soon as a sufficient number of con- verts had been made, a fertile valley was chosen, and @ church erected with buildings to accommodate some hundreds. Next came the colonists, whose main efforts . . Alegre, Hist. de la Comp. de Jesus en Nueva Espaiia—Tom. iii. » 119, 300 *. CASAS GRANDES TO were to support the Mission and its priests. The Anglo-Saxon pioneer entered the wilderness with his axe, his plough, and his rifle ; and after he had erected his own dwelling, the mill and blacksmith’s shop rose up. Lands were brought into cultivation, the mecha- nic arts flourished; and when the colony became large enough and rich enough to support a pastor, a church was built. For the results of the two modes of coloni- zation, compare Texas, New Mexico, California, So- nora, and Chihuahua, before the three first became annexed to the United States, and the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan, The latter had attain- ed more wealth, more population and importance, and had done quite as much towards promoting Christianity in the first ten years after their settlement, as the former States had in two centuries. Near by is a fertile valley, a very small portion of which is now tilled: although from appearances, it was all formerly irrigated and under cultivation. I tried in vain to purchase vegetables. A more thoroughly lazy set of people, I never saw. The Pimo and Coco- Maricopa Indians of the Gila, are infinitely superior to them. “Whether a proximity to the church and the worthless half-civilized Mexicans has reduced them to this state of indolence and poverty, I know not; but if so, they would better have remained in their native valleys, and never seen the faces of white men. Leaving the village, we rode on a mile further, and stopped in a fine grove of large mezquit trees near the river, where there was plenty of grass. We remained here until 3 o’clock, Pp. u., when We resumed our journey along the valley as before, SANTA CRUZ. ; set through a forest of mezquit trees, but’ had not pro- ceeded more than an hour before it began to rain in torrents, the wind blowing directly in our faces. Be- lieving the shower would soon pass over, I turned my * wagon round and stopped. Those on horseback drew up under trees; but there was little shelter from them, so violently did the rain pour down. After an hour’s delay, we pushed on. The road was now exceedingly muddy, the ravines and gullies were filled with water, and our progress was very slow. After journeying eight miles, making seventeen in all since morning, and being much in advance of the train, I deemed it prudent to stop. The wagons would not probably get in before night, after which, it would be unsafe to tra- vel, owing to the washing of the road by the rains; for we had in many places to avoid it, and force our way through the woods. The clouds indicated more rain; so I set to work and had a good fire in readiness for my cook when he should arrive. Those who were with me followed my €xample, and we soon had several large fires blazing, and a good stock of wood in. : As soon as the train got in, all hands set to work to pitch the tents, and take the necessary precautions to keep them in their places before the storm should be upon us. Guys were fixed to all the tents, which were further supported by being attached to the wagons ; for the ground was so soft that the pins would not hold. Trenches were dug around each one, to keep _ it dry as possible; and we were quite ready for it, When ‘the rain again began to fall. After a hearty Supper, we retired torest; but it was only to be routed 302 CASAS GRANDES TO out again, for: the storm soon increased in violence, and every moment we expected our frail coverings would be torn to shreds or blown down. And, in fact, notwithstanding our efforts to make them more secure, one of the tents was hurled from its fastenings | | and blown more than a hundred yards before it was arrested. July 20th. The rain having continued the whole night, we were much delayed in getting off this morn- ing. The whole country was drenched with water, and the road almost impassable for our heavily-loaded wagons. After a hard journey of eighteen miles, we stopped at the banks of the river; and strange as it may appear, notwithstanding all the rain that had fallen, the river, such is the uncertainty of the streams in this country, was quite dry. Fortunately, in some cavities in the river’s bed we found water enough for our present wants. Our march was a straggling one to-day, as some of the teams could not keep up. My baggage wagon in pal- ticular, which also contained my tent and cooking utensils, did not get in until after dark. One of the mules broke down to-day, and was taken out of the team. Others showed signs of great exhaustion, from the heaviness of the road and the long march. July 21st. It having rained most of the night, and every thing being wet, we were unable to leave before nine o'clock. After journeying over a muddy road for nine miles, we reached Tubac, another presidio oF garrison, consisting of a collection of dilapidated build- ings and huts, about half of which were tenantless, 2” an equally ruinous church. Captain Gomez, who con s SANTA ORUZ. $63. manded at Fronteras, at the time of my visit there with Colonel Craig in May, 1851, was in command here, and came out to meet us as we passed through the plaza. To our infinite astonishment and regret, we learned that Sefiorita Inez Gonzales, the Mexican girl whom we had liberated from captivity, and restored to her parents at Santa Cruz in September, was living at this _ place with the officer just named. Captain G. himself, although acquainted with all the circumstances of her restoration, did not mention her name to me; but having been informed of the fact from others, I asked him if she was at his quarters. He replied that she was, but was quite ill, and furthermore that she was about to return with her mother to Santa Cruz On telling him that I must see her, he invited me into his house, whither I was accompanied by several gentle- men of the Commission. The poor girl seemed very glad to see us. She was not ill, but evidently felt under some restraint, as the Captain remained dur- ing the interview. She seemed very sad and un- -happy ; and when asked’ if she would accompany us back to the States, as we had before invited her, she knew not what to say, and, fearing to give offence to her new captor, looked to him for a reply. The interview was a very unsatisfactory one, and we were all quite reluctant to leave her in such a position ; but Captain Gomez assured us she would return home with her mother, who was then in Tubac. The next day we accordingly took. leave, expecting that the party she accompanied would overtake us. In a book of travels in a strange country, one is » — CASAS GRANDES TO expected to describe every town he visits; but as for this God-forsaken place, when I have said that it con- tains a few dilapidated buildings, and an old church, with a miserable population, I have said about all. It was established as a presidio almost a century and a half ago, and usually maintained a population of four hundred souls. It was abandoned a year before our arrival, but had since been repopulated, and might have comprised at the time of our visit a hundred © souls. The bottom-lands near it, along the Santa Cruz River, are quite rich, and can be made to produce the same grain, fruit, and vegetables as at Tucson. At the rancho of Calabasa, in the same district, is a gold mine which was once productive, but the fear of the Apaches led to its abandonment. As an example of the uncertainty of crops from artificial irrigation in this ‘country, I will mention @ circumstance which occurred at Tubac. The preceding fall, after the place had been again occupied, a party of Mormons in passing through on their way to California was induced to stop there by the representations of the:Comandante. He offered, them lands in the rich valley, where acequias were already dug, if they would remain and cultivate it; assuring them that they would find a ready market for all the corn, wheat, and vegetables they could raise, from the troops and from passing emigrants. e offer was so good, and the prospects so flattering, that they consented to remain. They therefore set to work, and ploughed and sowed their lands, in which they expended all their means, anticipating an abundant harvest. But the spring and summer came without Pe a er I, ee eee eee ee SANTA CRUZ. — 305 rain: the river “dried up; their fields could not be irrigated; and their labor, time, and money were lost. They abandoned the place, and, although reduced to the greatest extremities, succeedéd in reaching Santa Isabel, in California, where we fell in with them. We had got but a mile from Tubac, when one of the wagons broke down and became a total wreck. We were travelling on level ground at the time, and ' the accident was wholly unexpected. On examina- tion, it was found that the rim and spokes of one of the wheels had become loose, and giving way simul- taneously, the wheel was crushed. This let the axle- tree down with such force as to break off the end. A new fore-wheel and axle-tree were now necessary, to- gether with some blacksmith’s work, without which the wagon would be useless. I accordingly sent to Captain Gomez, to learn if he could render us any aid; but to my regret he sent me word that there was not a mechanic in the town, nor tools of any description. there was no prospect of moving further until some change was made in our transportation, and perhaps some articles left, I gave orders to pitch the tents and turn out the mules, there being plenty of grass and Wood near, with the Santa Cruz River, now full of water, within a hundred yards of us. In the midst of our dilemma, and while we were Pondering what to do, a train of some twelve or fifteen ‘migrant wagons hove in sight, and in a few minutes Teached our camp. It was a pleasant event to meet a party from home once more; although they had no news to tell us, as they had left their homes in Arkan- Sas in May, and had now been nearly three months on VOL. 11.—20 306 CASAS GRANDES TO their journey. The party consisted df forty persons, including men and women. Their wagons were all drawn by oxen, six of which were attached to each. As before, the chief inquiries were about the state of the road, the grass and water, and lastly the Indians. We learnt from them that there had been abundant rains on their route, and that the grass was excellent, and water abundant. This was cheering news to us, and better than we could give in return. On conversing with the leader of the party, I found him disposed to sell one of his wagons; and after some parleying we agreed upon the terms, which were two hundred dollars. The bargain was no sooner made than the wagon was empted of its contents, consisting of baggage and old furniture, and was taken posses- sion of by us. It was a large, strong, and well made wagon, and bore the name of “ark,” painted upon its side in large letters. It required some changes to adapt it to mules, which we at once set about making. In the mean time Mr. Leroux went to the town to ty and sell the broken wagon, which only lacked an axle and wheel to*be as good as ever. But the ‘people knew that we must leave it behind us, and they de- clined to take it at any price. We accordingly stripped it of its tongue, coupling-pole, hounds, iron bolts, and nuts, broke up one of the wheels for tent-pins, and abandoned the remainder. July 22d. We did not get the “ark” ready until noon, when we resumed our journey. The Ww eather was now so moderate that we could travel during the day, which was a great relief to us. The road was good during this day’s journey, and the new wheel Sa ir SANTA ORUZ. 307 behaved very well. The valley continued about half a mile wide, thickly covered* with mezquit trees of a large size. The bottom-lands resembled meadows, being covered with luxuriant grass, and but few trees. The immediate banks of the river, which is here as diminutive as near Tucson, are lined with cotton- wood trees of a gigantic size, resembling our largest elms. In some places there are large groves of these trees, rendering this part of the valley the most pic- turesque and beautiful we had seen. At four o’clock, we reached one of these groves on the river’s bank, where we encamped. Fiat A mile before reaching camp, we passed the ruins of a large rancho known as Calabasa; for every large rancho or hacienda has its name and place on the _™map. Even after the establishment has been aban- _ doned, and its walls have crumbled to the ground, the name remains. This custom is prevalent throughout northern Mexico. Along the valley of the Rio Grande and in New Mexico are a host of names on the map applied to ranchos, and sometimes to placés where neither villages nor ranchos now exist. The same may be said of Sonora and Chihuahua, and where there were no settlements locations were given. A stranger on looking at one of these maps would ima- gine the country thickly settled, whereas there might not be a village, rancho, or even a single inhabitant, Where he is treated to a long list of names, including the saints in the calendar, all the apostles, and the Holy Lady of Guadalupe into the bargain. _ This Calabasa, I was told by Leroux, was a thriv- ‘ng establishment when he visited it twenty years ago. 308 CASAS GRANDES TO A large tract of land was then under cultivation, and herds of cattle were reared on the adjacent hills. But the stream did not furnish a sufficient quantity of water to irrigate it, without cutting off entirely the towns of Tubac and Tucson; and consequently it was aban- doned. This is the difficulty with these small water- courses; for having few or no tributaries to keep up the supply, as our northern streams have, and fre- quently running a course of several hundred miles before they terminate, their water cannot be drawn off without destroying the crops below them, and even depriving the people and animals of water to drink. I ascended one of the low hills here, about two hundred feet in height, which approached within one hundred and fifty yards of the river. This range crosses the stream, and runs far to the south on the western side. From these hills the plateau extends ‘some ten or fiften miles on both sides, when it strikes the mountain ranges. On the east is the mountain called Santa Rita, the highest within a hundred miles: in fact it is higher than any we had passed since leay- ing the Gila; and on its opposite side, where I was in September last, there is none of so great an altitude for one hundred and fifty miles. From the point where I stood, I could see the mountain at the base of which my party was lost last year in trying to reach ~ Santa Cruz, This place was directly east of us, about twelve or fifteen miles distant. ; During our journey to-day, some five or six miles back, I noticed the ruins of Tumacacort. Its beauti- ful and. picturesque church showed finely among the thick grove of trees by which it is inclosed. The SANTA CRUZ ° 309 church is a mile from the road; and supposing that we should pass it, I made no inquiries, but kept on, until I got too far to return. It seems that there was a path leading to it, which Mr. Pratt and some of the horsemen took, but which I did not observe. Mr. P. took a sketch of it. Twmacacori was formerly a mis- sion of note. It was connected with the presidio of Tubac, and had been lately abandoned in consequence: of the incursions of the Apaches. . Passed to-day two parties of emigrants on their way to California. They each had from twelve to fifteen wagons, all drawn by oxen, and were from the State of Arkansas. Numerous questions were asked, as on former occasions, about grass, water, and the Indians. We learnt from these people that there were many parties of emigrants behind, and that we should pro- bably fall in with them every day. The emigrants from Arkansas and Texas all take the southern route, by way of El Paso; while those from the more northern i go by way of Independence and the Great Salt ake A party of Mexican soldiers from Tucson overtook and passed us after we had encamped, carrying in a palanquin their Colonel, who was ill with a fever. As there was no medical attendant at the place, they were . taking him to Arispe. ee Soon after, a second party of soldiers stopped and ‘neamped near us, probably for the sake of security ‘gainst the Apaches; for they feel perfectly safe when under the wing of a party of well-armed Americans. This valley is a favorite haunt of these freebooters; and although we saw none, there is no doubt ‘but they 310 CASAS GRANDES TO both saw and followed us. They keep to the hills near by, where they can overlook the road, and are sure to pounce upon any small and unprotected party of tra- vellers; for not a week passes without depredations and murders. July 23d. The valley to-day was more contracted, owing to the proximity of the hills, which in many . cases reached the stream, compelling us to cross them. The country grew more picturesque and diversified, exhibiting alternate valleys and gentle hills. In the former were groups of large walnut-trees, whose deep green féliage presented a striking contrast with the lighter and yellowish hue of the cotton-woods, and the | brighter green of the willows. The intermediate spaces between the hills and the stream exhibited a luxuriant growth of grass. But it must be remem- bered that the enchanting aspect which every thing now wore in this valley does not continue. It was the rainy season, when vegetation presents its most attractive garb. In a few weeks the daily showers would cease, and the parching sun would dry up every thing but the cacti, which do not seem to be bene- fited by rain, and the large trees of the valley, which find moisture enough in the earth to sustain them until the rainy season again comes round. The grass then withers and dies, and the stream furnishes barely water enough to supply the immediate wants of the people. ) Passed a party of emigrants with nine wagons, each drawn by ten oxen. The men were hardy and good-looking, being just such as are wanted in Califor- nia. This train, as well as the others we had met, SANTA CRUZ. Be 311 had more oxen than were required to draw the wagons; but the owners were taking them to market as beef cattle, and found it much easier to yoke them to their wagons than to drive them loose. Some of these wagons drawn by five yoke of cattle did not contain more than five hundred pounds weight, while the capacity of the team would suffice for five or six thousand pounds. . At three o’clock, we encamped in a fine grove of trees near the river, having travelled twenty miles. A heavy rain set in just before we stopped, attended with thunder and lightning. July 24th. Got an early start this morning. The valley grew still more contracted; in fact for miles there cannot be said to be any valley, the stream sim- : ply winding its way among the hills. Eight miles brought us to the old rancho of San Lazaro, where we found an encampment of fifty or sixty emigrants from Arkansas, bound for the land of gold. Before these people knew who we were, they ex- pressed much surprise at seeing a large and well-or- ganized party going eastward; some exclaiming, when they saw we were Americans, ‘“ Holloa, strangers, haven’t you mistaken the road—you'’re going the Wrong way—this is the way to Californy!” Similar expressions were made by almost every party we met; but when they found we had been to California, and Could give them some information about it, there was ho end to their inquiries. All seemed to have their thoughts updn gold; for they invariably asked whe- ther the yield continued as great as at first, what we thought of its holding out, ete., ete. — 312 _ CASAS GRANDES TO _ Several of this party were sick, particularly women and children. On hearing this, I stopped to give Dr. Webb an opportunity to visit and prescribe for them. The Doctor had done the same for other parties which we found were unprovided with medicines, or any of the comforts required in their condition. The con- stant rains they had been exposed to, with no protec- tion but their wagons, had caused much sickness among them; and it was pitiful to see these poor ema- ciated and suffering creatures lying beneath the trees, resting a day or two, until they could recover strength enough to proceed. In my former journey through Sonora, we stopped at, San Lazaro, a large deserted hacienda, with ex- tensive orchards and fertile grounds around it. Leav- ing this, we kept along up the stream, over a rough road, for nine miles, and reached Santa Cruz at eleven o'clock. Travelled distance to-day, seventeen miles. I sent the train and party a mile beyond the vil- lage, to encamp where there was plenty of grass, and where the men would be away from the contaminations of a low Mexican population, miserable, filthy, and poor as this was. I called on our old friend, Padre Bernardino Pa- checo, and took breakfast with him. He had much to relate to us that had transpired since our last visit. The Apaches, he ‘told us, had made several attacks on the people within half a mile of the town, and had carried off many of their mules and cattle, and mur- dered five of the inhabitants. The last attack was made two weeks before our arrival, when they were pursued by a party of soldiers, in which a Polish officer SANTA CRUZ. 313 in the Mexican service was shot by a rifle ball in his arm, from which wound he was then suffering severe- ly. We also learned that the three men who joined us at Santa Isabel, California, and who left us on the desert at the time Colonel Craig was killed, had reached here about the time of the affray with the Indians. They took part in it, and one of them re- ceived a wound. After a couple of hours spent in the town, I rode forward to our camp, where the tents and wagons had been arranged in a square, for the better protection of the men and animals in case of an attack from the Indians, who, we were told, were constantly prowling about the neighborhood, and watching an opportunity to surprise any party whom they thought unprepared, or to run off any animals not sufficiently guarded. 314 SANTA CRUZ TO CHAPTER XXXIV. SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. Shoeing rules and repairing wagons at Santa Cruz—Standing guard— Sad fate of Inez Gonzales—Sickness of the town—Boldness of the Apa- ches and their constant inroads—Wretched state of the people—Leave human bodies found—Open country—Reach Janos. July 25th. At Santa Cruz. Since leaving Fort Yuma, we had had no opportunity to complete the repairs on the wagons, some of which were much injured and had been temporarily patched up with raw hide or other- wise. Besides the iron work to be done on these, many of the mules required shoeing. It was necessary, therefore, that this work should be done here, as we should have no other opportunity until we reached the frontier towns of Janos or Carrelitos in the State of Chihuahua, still nearly two hundred and fifty miles distant. The Guadalupe Pass, which we had twice been through, and with whose difficulties we were well acquainted, was yet before us, besides some Very ‘rocky mountain ridges. I therefore deemed it advisa- - THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. : 25 ble to shoe the fore feet of all the team mules, leaving the pack and riding mules, with few exceptions, to go as they were. It would have been well to shoe them all; but the difficulties in the way of getting any thing done compelled me to dispense with such work as was not absolutely necessary. | There was a blacksmith’s shop in the village, a bellows, and an anvil, but very indifferent tools. Then there was no charcoal, and no shoes or nails. The first step, therefore, was to send three or four men with pack-mules to the mountains for wood, and several others to guard them, and prevent a surprise by the _ Apaches. This obtained, we had to burn it into char- coal; and then three of our most ingenious men were dispatched to the blacksmith’s shop, to assist in forg- ing the shoes and nails, and in shoeing the animals. I took my turn last night, for the second time, in that most disagreeable of all our duties, standing guard. The arrangements which we made before starting from the Pimo villages, where our escort left us, were, that two of the men should stand guard for two hours, commencing at 8 o’clock, and that this guard should be relieved every two hours until the camp was called in the morning, and the mules turned out to feed. But I was unwilling to trust to all the men, fearing that due diligence would not be observed. The officers there- ° fore agreed, without exception, to take their turn; — One to stand every night till 12 o’clock, and another ftom that hour till the morning. This was an arduous duty ; but our safety absolutely required it. To rise before day and travel until three or four o'clock in the afternoon, and then stand guard half the night, was a 316 ; SANTA CRUZ TO duty that we all felt severely, and each dreaded the night when his turncame. Last night was a very bad one, in fact, the worst we had experienced during our journey (the march across the Tucson desert always excepted), as it was exceedingly dark, and the rain came down in torrents. I kept a light burning in my tent the whole night, and made my rounds with a lan- tern. The strict watch kept by us during the march, no doubt saved us from robbery; and, if there had been nothing to fear from the Indians, it was a safe- guard against the Mexicans, who are as great thieves as the Apaches. We had suffered much from theft in our last visit to Santa Cruz, and took good care that this pilfering should not be repeated. In the afternoon I called on Padre Pacheco with Dr. Webb, to make inquiries about Inez Gonzales. The result was very unsatisfactory. He manifested an in- terest in the welfare of the poor child, but said that he had no control over her or her family, and that his in- fluence or exertions would avail nothing against the plans or the doings of the military officers. Their power was supreme, particularly in an outpost like this. From all the information I could gather from the Padre, it was evident that unfair means had been resorted to by Captain Gomez; first, in getting her away. from her home under some pretence, and secondly, in depriving her of her liberty, and preventing her return with her mother to Santa Cruz. I have not before observed that the mother overtook us the day after leaving Tubac, and accompanied our train to her now desolate home. _ Believing that Governor Cubillas of Sonora, a ge2 CR Se en ee a ee ee ae ‘i : THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 317 tleman of high character and fine feelings, with whom I became acquainted at Ures, would irterest himself for his young countrywoman, I addressed him a letter at length, requesting his interference on her behalf. Dr. Webb was called upon to-day to visit many — sick families—also the Polish officer who had been wounded in the fight with the Apaches, and Captain Murphy, the officer in command at this place. The town appeared to be very sickly, fevers being the pre- vailing form of disease. Of the troops here, which numbered a hundred men, thirty were disabled by illness. The prevalence of fevers arises from the prox- imity of a large marsh between here and San Lazaro, In walking into town, I met parties of the inhabit- ants promenading. The women were neatly dressed, mostly in white, with dark rebosos over their heads ; while the men who accompanied them were armed With muskets or lances, without which they never ven- ture beyond the walls. Even at the distance of our camp, which was within a mile of the town, our visitors Were invariably armed: So with those immediately under the walls tending cattle, or in the fields plough- ‘ing, all had their fire-arms at hand. Such is the state of things in this place. Of course, agricultyre is neg- lected, and the people, being confined to that portion’ of the valley near the town, are able to raise barely enough for their own subsistence. 7 ; On one occasion last winter, a party of Apaches actually entered the town during the day, and drove off a number of mules, These robbers were within §un-shot of the garrison, from which they were per- celved by a sentinel. Yet such was the terror they s 318 SANTA CRUZ TO inspired, that no attempts were made, either by the military or theinhabitants, to repel them or rescue the animals. Outside the walls were a number of cattle. These the robbers did not think proper to take, as they could not keep up with the mules. They therefore lanced them where they stood; and their bleached bones still remain under the walls, within a stone’s throw of the dwellings, as testimonials of Mexican cowardice. I cannot conceive what object there is in support- ing this miserable population of less than two hundred souls, in an outpost where they are liable to the con- stant attacks and depredations of savages. The adja- cent valley is not occupied, although one of the finest in the State. Better would it be for the government to take the whole population, not only of Santa Cruz, but also of Tubac and Tucson, remove them to the central parts of the State, and provide them with other land of equal value. As there are tracts equally good which are at present unoccupied, the govern- ment would be savers by this arrangement. The ex- pense of maintaining a battalion of five hundred troops in this quarter for two years, is greater than would be the cost of removing the whole population in question. * If this is not practicable, then the government should encourage emigration to these valleys, and enable the people to protect themselves. It is quite possible, and _I think it probable, that the town of Santa Cruz will be eventually abandoned by the present miserable remains of its inhabitants ; they will be compelled to this step to save themselves from starvation, or from being finally cut off by their more brave and warlike enemies. July 26th. This day our teamsters and arrieros” sistas] THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 319 took advantage of our delay here, to get drunk, and make a serious disturbance in the village. The author- ities preferred a complaint against Jesus Lopez, a Mexican in the employ of the Commission, for ill treat- ment of a respectable woman, into whose house he unceremoniously entered and then beat her severely. They asked if I would punish him, or would allow them todo so. Isent word, in reply, that while we were in Mexico, we were amenable to its laws—that this man knew them, and if he had transgressed them, he must suffer the consequences. I afterwards heard that he was fined and imprisoned. He was the same man who killed the Apache at the Copper Mines, and had given me trouble at every settlement where we had stopped. I was therefore glad to get rid of him, and found no difficulty in filling his place. In fact, had I permitted them, half the population would have availed themselves of the opportunity that presented, to get away, it mattered not where to. One of Lieut. Whipple’s teamsters also got drunk here, drew his pistol on the Padre, and abused several others. This man was likewise imprisoned, but was liberated at the Lieutenant’s request. To keep the men in camp was impossible. They would creep out at night; and if sent to the village on an errand, they would get drunk and kick up a row. Yet some of these very men were the best and most reliable in my employ, when on the march, and away from the con- taminations of a low Mexican town. — heen ee 4 The shoeing progressed slowly, it taking longer to make a nail than an American blacksmith would require to shoe an animal. 320 SANTA CRUZ TO Padre Pacheco and another gentleman dined with me to-day. They came armed with swords and pistols ; and I afterwards perceived that a deputation from the village, a portion of the good pastor's flock, fearful that he might be harmed, had followed him with their muskets, and waited outside my tent until he should return. The Padre brought me a bottle of wine, and another of excellent vinegar, which was very accept- able, together with a few vegetables; in return for which, we gave him a few articles that he could no obtain here. : Dr. Webb was. engaged the whole day in gratni- tously attending upon the sick. In the afternoon, @ heavy rain set in. : July 27th. A large party of emigrants from Arkan- _ sas, via El Paso, arrived just before night, and encamp- ed near us. They had twenty wagons, each drawn by five yoke of oxen. Soon after their arrival, they applied to me for flour. I told them I had barely sufficient to take us to El Paso, and directed them to apply to a mill in the town where it was for sale. I heard afterwards that they made a demand on the Padre for provisions; and that they treated him rudely, sitting down without ceremony in the little piazza at his door, where they commenced playing cards with each other, and annoy ed him exceedingly by their boisterous manner and inso- lence. July 28th. Our repairs and shoeing being completed, we resumed our journey early this morning. Many of the inhabitants earnestly begged to be employed or to be permitted to accompany us, offering to aid us in any way in their power, without compensation. Feel THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. S21 pity for the poor creatures, I told several that they might accompany the train, if they would furnish their own provisions and transportation. Four of them fol- lowed us on foot; and I afterwards found that the Mexican arrieros, and the cooks, kept them at work when in camp in bringing wood and water, as well as in herding the mules, and gave them their food for s doing. * Hearing from the emigrants who arrived last even- ing, that the road taken by them from the San Pedro river was very bad for loaded wagons, I determined to avoid it by following a path little known, which was Some ten miles further. Instead, therefore, of passing directly over the hills on leaving the valley, we kept on three miles to the termination of these hills, and then took an easterly, though very tortuous course, keeping most of the way in valleys, and avoiding the mountains altogether. As we passed out of the valley, T observed a long train of wagons winding over the hills on the other road, accompanied by many horse- men. This was an emigrating party, which we had been told we should meet; but we were not near enough to speak with them. After winding through these valleys for four miles, — We ascended to the plateau, to which we kept for six or eight miles over a smooth gravelly plain, without a tree ora bush. The valleys below were studded with small oaks, and covered with luxuriant grass; in fact, T'was told at Santa Cruz, that in former years large herds of cattle were raised here. The country seems admirably adapted for the purpose, and in other hands, or when the Apache robbers are exterminated, will VOL. 11—2] 322 SANTA CRUZ TO again become a grazing country. Not a head was now to be seen; nor is there another settlement, a single habitation, or a spot of cultivated ground between Santa Cruz and Janos in the direction we were travel- ling. At two o'clock the rain began to fall in torrents ; and soon after, seeing a small basin of water near a — grove of large walnut trees, we stopped and encamped, having travelled fifteen miles. This was the first day, since leaving the valleys of California, that we had met with oak groves and broad pastures. The whole country here assumed a new aspect, resembling the hills and valleys of Vermont or New Hampshire, rather than Mexico. Involuntarily we looked at the turn of every hill, as we wound through the valleys, to meet with farm houses, culti- vated fields, herds of cattle, and an agricultural popu- lation; but all was silent as the grave. An occasional wolf sneaked across our path, or a herd of antelope bounded over the plain, reminding us that we were far from all human habitations. July 29th. The road or path we ruvelell yester- day was very faint, and could no longer be traced. Our only course, therefore, was to follow the valley, which we knew must lead to the San Pedro. After keeping along it for three or four miles, Leroux set off over the hills, to see if he could find any trail. He at length found one, which he recommended us to take ; as following the valley might lead us to some cafion, and thus involve us in difficulties. We therefore alter- ed our course from east to south, which we kept for four miles, and then entered the old road. Near this, we met two suspicious looking characters with guns, Siti i ec ae Sa i THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. . 323 an unusual event in these regions. We first discovered them at a distance, and on applying our spy-glasses, were still more puzzled, as they resembled Americans. On coming up, they proved to belong to a party of emigrants ahead, which they had left some hours before in search of deer or other game, They seemed as much surprised as ourselves at the meeting, and had many questions to ask. Their party was short of pro- Visions, about which they felt more anxiety than about the state of the road or the grass. After striking the road, our course was again due east through a fine valley watered bya small stream ; the western tributary or source of the San Pedro. We followed this valley for about six miles, and met a train of twenty or tweity-five ox-teams, with emigrants for California. We stopped a few minutes to exchange news with them, as well as to ask sundry questions about the state of the road, grass, water, and Indians ; - result of which was more satisfactory to us than to em. On the south side of the valley we were traversing, Were bold rocky cliffs, about a hundred feet high; while on the opposite side, it was bounded by low hills of gravel. The valley was covered with grass, but not tree or shrub was visible. We crossed the stream ever a rocky ledge, where there was but a few inches of water, Shortly before reaching it, we passed on our right the ruins of a village, which appeared to have been long deserted. Amid these ruins, on the summit of a hill, there seemed to have been a fortifi- tion. We encamped directly by the crossing near the base of a hill, where there were traces of previous 324 SANTA CRUZ TO encampments. We estimated the distance travelled to-day at fourteen miles, making altogether, by the route we had come, twenty-nine miles from Santa Cruz; while the usually travelled road does not exceed eighteen. Yet I would advise all travellers with wagons to turn to the right after crossing the San Pe- dro, and take our route, thereby avoiding one of the worst mountain passes in the whole distance to Califor- nia. With pack-mules, the shorter route should of course have the preference. July 30th. Passing round the base of the hill near our camp, we ascended the plateau, and then pursued a course due east, over a plain as level as a floor, and without a tree or shrub, covered with short grass that had sprung up since the rains. Five miles further, we again descended into a valley or bottom, through which ran a small stream, where we met another party of emigrants. After keeping the bottom for five miles, we reached a swampy place, caused by a recent accu- mulation of waters from the heavy rains. In the midst of this was a stream, or rather, I think, a gully, filled with water, which was running very rapidly. It was from two to three feet deep, and full of deeper holes, so that even the horsemen met with some difficulty in crossing. Fearing that we should break the tongues of our wagons in plunging down so abrupt and short a bank, the picks and spades were got out and both banks cut down; we then all got over in safety. Crossing this boggy plain, our course continued eastward, through a bottom, for about six miles, the plateau bounding the valley on both sides.) In the afternoon we began to ascend. gradually through the THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 325 same valley, and at half-past three encamped near a stream, where the water merely stood in holes. It was very good, though, from appearance, not perma- nent. Near us was a large cotton-wood tree, the only | one to be seen; so that it was with difficulty we could find scraps of wood enough to cook our dinner. From our camp we could see the mountain near Santa Cruz bearing due west. The rain set in before night, and continued several hours; and as we were in a very exposed situation, it was necessary to put extra fastenings to the tents. Distance travelled to-day, fif teen miles. : July 31st. Every thing was drenched with rain, which prevented an early start. We still kept due east, through an open defile in a mountain range, which ran north and south, with an easy and gradual ascent. On both sides were conical hills from three to four hundred feet in height, detached from the adjacent mountains, and destitute of trees and shrub- bery. In fact, scarcely a tree or bush had been seen since we left the vicinity of Santa Cruz. As the coun- tty continued bare to day, the men picked up every fragment of wood or brush we passed, and threw it into the wagons. It would be prudent for all parties tra- velling this country to provide themselves with wood Whenever an opportunity offers, and always keep on hand a supply for three days. We were told by all the emigrants we had passed, that their greatest difficulty had been to procure fuel; and they cautioned 4S to secure it when we could, and not wait until we At two o’clock the rain began to fall; but as there 326 SANTA CRUZ TO was no water to be seen, we were reluctantly compel- led to keep on until near night, when we reached a stream, called by Leroux ‘‘ Ash Creek,” where we en- camped. He said it was the same place where Colonel Cooke stopped with his battalion in 1846, and from which several parties were sent out in search of water, as it was then dry. The stream is so called from the ash trees which grew near it, but which have now nearly disappeared. It is the toughest and best wood for repairing wagons; and passing trains have stopped here to cut new tongues, and make other repairs. Dis: tance travelled, twenty miles. a August 1st. Our general course was still east, through defiles in the mountain’s ridge we were then crossing, for about four miles, when we emerged into an open plain from twenty-five to thirty miles across. Keeping the same direction, slightly descending for nine miles, through a level plain covered with mezquit chapporal, we reached Agua Prieta, or the ‘Black Water Creek” of Colonel Cooke. My readers will recognise this as the spot were I encamped at the. time of my visit to Fronteras in May, 1851, when I was accompanied by Colonel Craig and a small party. It was then dry; but now it was filled with a dark muddy water, whence it derives its name. This, like many other small streams we had lately passed, we now know is not permanent. After heavy rails, it receives the washings of the broad plains, which rise gradually on either side for many miles. As the next water we expected to find was at San Bernardino, eighteen miles distant, I thought 1 best to go no further, although it was but. twelve THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. . oF o'clock, and we had come not over: thirteen miles. But as there was a bright sun, we could not do better than devote the remainder of the day to drying our tents, blankets, saddles, and every thing that had been carried on mules. The packs were therefore over- hauled, and their contents, as well as the bedding, spread out to dry. The road to-day had been excel- lent, as it had for the most part since leaving Santa rug. : Towards evening, an- alarm was given by the Mexican arrieros that the Apaches were upon us, and . after our mules, then a mile off. All flew to arms; and in two minutes every animal about the camp was saddled, mounted, and off in pursuit, or rather to the aid of our caballada, which we could see approaching . at full speed, followed by the herdsmen and arrieros, yelling and screaming at the top of their voices to keep up the stampede. The mules were evidently as much frightened as the Mexicans; and such a state of Commotion we had not beheld since we left California. - Far across the plain we could see the supposed enemy approaching on horseback, making directly for the camp at full speed. Having got my rifle ready and cocked, I drew out my telescope to ascertain the humber of the enemy, now about a mile off. To my Sreat relief, I perceived that several were clad in dark Coats, and that all wore hats, some of them black. This showed that they were neither Apaches nor Mexi- Cans; for the former do not wear hats at all, and the ter at this season wear white calico shirts, with Straw hats. In a few minutes the supposed enemies Were with us, and proved to be a party of American 328 SANTA CRUZ TO emigrants in advance of a train of wagons, which our people did not see, or they would have caused no alarm. Perceiving the stampede they had caused, and hearing the yelling of the arrieros, they had hastened. forward to quiet our fears. This party consisted of thirty-five persons, men, women, and children, with mule-wagons and horses, from Arkansas and Texas. Their wagons had turned off to the left to a spring, where there was better water than in the stream two miles below us. After spending an hour in giving us some interesting, news from our friends at El Paso and on the Rio Grande below that place, they took leave of us and rejoined their party. They had seen a party of forty or more Apaches two days before near the Guadalupe Pass. | August 2d. We moved off at seven; the morning clear and pleasant, and with the satisfaction of having dry tents and clothing once more; for we had escaped the rain last night, probably from being so far from the mountains. Our course was still east, across the plain, to a high conical mountain capped with a rocky - bluff. The road was excellent until we reached the base of this mountain, when it became hilly, though not bad. After winding among these hills for three or four miles, we again emerged into a broad plain, in the middle of which stood the ruined hacienda of San Bernardino. We now descended again very gradually over a plain filled with mezquit chapporal, and six sal seven miles further brought us to the hacienda. Dis- tance travelled, eighteen miles. Just as we were entering this plain, we met Colo- nel Garcia, with a detachment of two hundred Mex! - [oS EEG, fe ee eee THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 329 can troops from Tucson, on a campaign against the Apaches. A more miserable set of men I never met, certainly none calling themselves soldiers. Some of them were destitute of shirts, others of pantaloons, and some had neither coats nor hats. Some wore over- coats, without a rag of clothing beneath. They had seen no Indians, as might be expected, although forty were observed here the day before. In all probability the wily enemy had perceived them, and would follow them, in the hope of stealing some of their animals, and piercing some of them with a lance or an arrow. These campaigns against the Indians are utterly use- less, nor can they be attended with success. During the last two years that the Mexicans have been operating against them on this frontier, not fifty have been killed. The Indians are too cunning to risk an open fight, even with such antagonists. Their mode of warfare is by stratagem, and they must be encountered with their own weapons. ! August 3d. We kept on our easterly course to- , wards the Guadalupe Mountains. Met a train of ox- teams with emigrants from Arkansas, and soon after entered the famous cafion, where there was an abun- dance of water and grass. In passing a small ravine, one of the wagons upset, discharging its contents upon ® poor Mexican who happened to be seated inside, hecause too ill to sit upon his mule. Dr, Webb was Sent for, but found the man not seriously injured. Fortunately the wagon was not broken; so that after a little delay all was made right again, and the train Continued through the defile until three o'clock, when We stopped and pitched our tents where the road —6330 SANTA CRUZ TO takes a sudden turn, and leads over the mountains, through the much-dreaded Guadalupe Pass. I noticed near this spot traces of a large encampment, which Le- roux said was one of Colonel Cooke’s in 1846. August 4th. We commenced the ascent of the mountain immediately after leaving camp; and the _animals being fresh, we reached the summit of the first hills with ease. I took my rifle and set off on foot, keeping near the train, as it would have been imprudent for the party to scatter in such a place. The descent of the first hill was difficult, being full of short turns, rocky and very steep. About half way down, we took the mules out of my wagon, and let it down by hand, the driver taking the sole, while four of us held it back until it reached the bottom. «The baggage and subsistence wagons were got down in safety by attaching ropes behind and to one, side, to which ten or a dozen men held on, thus preventing them from upsetting or making a too sudden descent. The only vehicle that met with an accident was that containing Lieutenant Whipple’s valuable instruments. Although more pains were taken with it than with any other, it was upset, and its contents thrown out, but happily without any damage either to the instruments or the wagon. The worst is a chalky hill, near the last in the pass: It is exceedingly smooth wind steep, with short and very abrupt turns, so as to render it impossible to double a team, or even hitch six mules together to advantage. To ascend this place with loaded wagons, is impossible. I sent Leroux off in the morning in advance with the pack- — directing him to pass all THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 331 the hills, then discharge his loads, and return and meet me at the base of the chalky hill mentioned. I found him there on my arrival; and we set to work at once to discharge the wagons. This being done, the con- tents were put upon the backs of the mules, which were sent ahead again to deposit their loads. We then took hold of the wagons; and by alternately pushing them and chocking the wheels, the mules got them up this formidable ascent with comparative ease. While this was going on I took a sketch of the pass, which will convey a better idea than a written description. It will be found in the first volume. : On the summit of the hill we met a train of wagons with forty persons bound for California. They werea substantial hardy looking set of people, and had been four months on their j ourney from Arkansas. A magnificent view of the country in every direc- tion is obtained from this spot. On looking back the way we had come, the whole pass with its defiles and moumains, its forests of oaks and pines, its deep gorges and grassy valleys, lay before us; while in the very centre, protruded a huge pile of rocks of a light green and whitish color, presenting a pleasing contrast with the rich hue of the foliage around. Some of the hills Were covered with grass, and others were dotted with clumps of cedars, although small live and post oaks predominated. Beyond the pass could be seen the high conical mountain beyond San Bernardino; and in the dim distance, an elevated chain near the San Pedro River, at the base of which we passed. The perspec- tive of these receding mountains, the farthest more than ‘hundred miles distant, was exceedingly beautiful. $32 SANTA CRUZ TO Before one o'clock we had passed all the hills; when the wagons were reloaded, the mules packed, and we continued our journey. I here turned off and took the old Janos road, believing it to furnish a shorter route to E] Paso than that by the Copper Mines, which we took in our journey into Sonora last year; besides I was desirous of varying my course, and examining the country further south. This road has been travel- led for nearly two centuries, or since the first settle- ment of the country. It is the only route practicable for wagons between Chihuahua and Sonora, and was only made so by Colonel Cooke. Nor is there any other for pack-mules, except one a short distance to the south leading from Correlitos to Babispe. Further south the great Sierra Madre is impassable for more than five hundred miles. When Colonel Cooke set out from Santa Fé for California, he came down the Rio Grande to the pre- sent ford at San Diego, and thence to Ojo de Vaca. His most direct course would then have been west across the unexplored region lying between that place and the San Pedro; but as his guide, Leroux, knew noth- ing of that country, he deemed it prudent, when so many lives were dependent on him, to follow a route with which he was acquainted. Accordingly he led them in a south-westerly course to the Guadalupe Pass, through which he knew there was a trail from Janos. In reaching this he had to pass over a district of fifty- two miles to Las Playas without water, in which his men suffered severely from thirst; and on reaching the pass, he was obliged to cut a road for his wagons, 4s wheeled vehicles had never before gone that way. THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 333 Emigrating parties, and all others, are much indebted to this gallant officer for opening this road, which otherwise would have remained in its ancient condition to the _ present day. But with all the labor that has been or may hereafter be bestowed upon it, it can never be- come the great thoroughfare for emigrants to California. The mountain pass must always remain an impedi- ment. The long tract from Ojo de Vaca to the Playas without water, is another; and the Guadalupe Pass presents the same diffieulty in the dry season.. A fourth objection is the distance, which is fully a hun- dred miles greater than a course nearly west from Ojo de Vaca, coming out near Tucson. . The latter route was taken by the Commission last year, and the longest stretch without water was less than forty miles. Our government should send out a party to make explorations within our line of boundary ; when, I doubt not, a route would be dis- covered which would shorten the distance at least one hundred and fifty miles, besides furnishing wood, water, and grass in abundance. It is desirable, too, that we should have a road as far as possible within our own ter- Nitory, and not pass, as at present, the whole distance from El Paso to the Colorado through that of Mexico. . The summit which we had now attained, by a tortu- ous ascent of from ten to fifteen hundred feet in fifteen miles, is the level of the great central plateau. A broad plain here opens to the view eastward and southward, extending far and wide, with short detached ridges of mountains, running generally from north-west to south- fast. Our course was south-east, to a range of moun- tains whose direction is east and west, fifteen miles dis- 334 SANTA CRUZ TO tant. This great plain is lost in the horizon at the north-east, there being no mountains in sight; in a south-westerly direction, the Guadalupe range is seen some fifty miles distant, verging eastward, until it unites with the great chain of the Cordilleras. Our course lay towards a portion of the mountains where I presumed the pass to be. The plain was per- fectly level and the road excellent, without a stone, a tree, or a bush. When we had reached its centre, where there was a slight depression, we found that the drainage of the adjacent slopes had made it so miry as to be impassable by the direct road. We therefore diverged to the right, keeping on higher ground, and got safely across. At 3 o’clock it commenced raining, with the wind from the south-west, when we would gladly have stopped; but there was neither wood nor water at hand. We were, therefore, obliged to keep on another hour, when a spring with a small pool of _ water was discovered at the base of a plateau or terrace which extended about three miles from the mountains. Here we encamped. Estimated distance travelled, eighteen miles, including the Guadalupe Pass. Grass was abundant around us, and some oaks half a mile dis- tant furnished us with fuel. . August 5th. We kept along the terrace for three miles, and then entered a defile which led directly across the lower portion of the mountains. This defile was at first of easy ascent, through groves of small oaks and cedars, and over a carpet of rich verdure. From this the road led directly up a hill, which, though 20¢ steep, was a very hard one for the animals, beimg wholly composed of loose and rolling stones. The poor THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 335 creatures had a severe tug of it; and although I ascended slowly on foot, I reached the summit nearly an hour before all the wagons got up. : Here we found a party of from forty to fifty emi- grants with ten ox teams. While waiting for our wagons to come up, we seated ourselves beneath the trees, and entered into conversation with these people, who were quite an intelligent party, both of men and women. The usual inquiries were made of us about the road and the prospects in California. The women were very inquisitive, chiefly as to the difficulties they had yet to encounter. They had already been five months on their journey from Arkansas, and had lost several of their party by death; and one of the men had had a narrow escape from a large brown bear but an hour before, on the hill we were now about to descend. The skin of the animal lay before us, bearing authentic tes- timony to his immense size. " It seems that as three of the men were scouring the adjoining woods, one of them discovered this bear, and discharged his rifle at him. The bear limped off into an adjacent thicket; the man followed; and as he approached the animal's place of concealment, the infu- riated creature sprang from the thicket and seized him. He was of course thrown, when a hard struggle took place for the mastery. The.bear bit him severe- ly in the leg; while the man, after a violent effort, suc-_ ceeded in getting his knife from its sheath, and plunged It into the animal’s body. The struggle took place on the brow of a steep hill, and near the brink of a preci- Pice some twenty feet in height. Over this they both fell together, the bear, fortunately, being underneath, 336 SANTA CRUZ TO and striking on his back. This saved the man from injury, and released him from his antagonist’s embrace. Lacerated as he was, he arose and prepared to act on the defensive, expecting the bear would again give battle; but the latter, not feeling very comfortable from his wounds and his fall, stood quietly gazing at the man, for some moments, and then leisurely turned around and walked away. The man was not so badly . injured as to prevent his walking ; and, as soon as the bear was out of sight, he called to his companions, and pointed out the direction taken by the animal. Follow- ing the track, they soon discovered him, and dispatch- ed him with a couple of well-directed shots. We now descended the opposite slope of the moun- tain, which, though long and tedious, was not precipi- tous. Reaching the base in safety, we stopped on the banks of a beautiful little stream, which had its source in the mountain. Here it was thought advisable to water the animals and make a noon halt, as it was un- certain whether we should find water again for many miles. After a delay of three hours, which afforded us an opportunity to dine, we resumed our journey, keeping near the stream for three miles, and then strik- ing off into a very broad and level plain from twenty- five to thirty miles across, on which not a tree or @ bush was to be seen- Low gravelly hills of a conical form rose from the plain on our left from fifty to two hundred feet in height, covered with grass, but desti- tute of trees. On our right, about four miles distant, rose a high and isolated mountain with bold rocky sides. Opposite this we stopped at nine o’ clock oe encamped without water, having travelled twenty miles. THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 337 August 6th. We continued our journey across the plain in a direction east south-east. With the excep- tion of a little rise of ten feet, to reach a gravelly pla- teau, the whole plain had been a perfect level since we entered it the day before. It was entirely open on the west, being limited in the far distance by the Guada- lupe Mountains, while on the east none were seen. This great plain, from its position and extent, I think unites with that we crossed on Cooke’s road, at the dry lake or “La Playa;” for when there, I noticed that the plain stretched far to the south-west, unlimited by the mountains. Our attention was arrested to-day by the sight of the remains of two human bodies, but whether of Mexicans or Americans we could not determine. What was left of their clothing consisted of white shirts and harrow white cotton drawers. The latter article is — hot worn by Mexicans, which led us to suppose the - murdered men might have been our countrymen. In the afternoon we crossed a fine clear stream, thirty to forty feet wide and about two deep, occasion- ally expanding into ponds twice that depth, and en- ‘amped on the opposite bank where there was excel- lent grass. This stream is a branch of the river which passes Janos and Correlitos, the latter being known both as the San Miguel and as the Casas Grandes River. Like other streams in Mexico, it takes the names of the several towns it passes. In it we caught asufficient bumber of trout to give us all a meal. We also col- lected specimens of unios, which abound here. About & mile to the east, several large adobe houses were Seen belonging to an estate which had recently been VOL. I,—22 338 SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. abandoned in consequence of the depredations of the Indians. Distance travelled, twenty miles. August Tth. We resumed our journey, keeping along a terrace of gravel about ten feet above the plain. The road continued excellent, as it had been since leaving the Guadalupe Pass. In eight miles we passed around the southern extremity of a hill, from which a gentle descent of a mile brought us to the old Presidio of Janos, the extreme outpost of the State of | Chihuahua. a ; JANOS TO CORRELITOS, ETC. 339 CHAPTER XXXV. JANOS TO CORRELITOS, AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. Janos, an old military post—tIts decline—Aid a party of American emi- grants—A Thomsonian doctor—Difficulty in fording the Casas Grandes River—Arrival at Correlitos—Smelting works—Unhealthiness of the people—Barranca Colorada—Visit to the town of Casas Grandes—Ex- tensive ruins—Resemblance to those on the Gila—Fertile valley—The river and its tributaries—Modern town—Return to Correlitos, Iris so rare an event for trains or travellers to enter Janos from the west, that our approach created quite 4 sensation among its quiet people. We stopped in the main street as we passed along, and were at once. accosted by some. Americans, who advised us to en- camp near the river on the opposite side of the town ; which we did, and found good grass near. | Janos is one of the seven presidios or military posts, aline of which was formed along the frontier as early a8 1718. The others were Galeana, Carrizal, Norte, Coyome, San Eleazario, and San Carlos. These posts Were of great service in subduing the Indians and pre, tecting the inhabitants, and were connected with : steater chain which extended from San Antonio in Texas to San Francisco in California. A direct and Constant communication was kept up between these 340 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, posts until the period of the subversion of the Spanish rule. They have since been retained and occupied for the same purpose as before, but have dwindled from respectable garrisons of well disciplined soldiers, to a mere handful of raw militia, as undisciplined as they are wanting in bravery. In the year 1826, the force in Janos consisted of six commissioned, and ninety non-commissioned officers and privates, and was supported at an annual cost of $26,894. It now numbers twenty soldiers; but this force is augmented from time to time by larger bodies of troops, when sent on campaigns against the Indians.* Like every other frontier town which we had visited, whether in this State or in Sonora, its population is diminishing, and its houses falling to decay, in conse- quence of the inroads of the universal enemy, the Apaches. The present population is but three hun- dred, and even these dare not venture far beyond the town, but lounge out a miserable existence beneath the shade of the adobe walls, changing their position as the shadows change. The streets have a desolate and forsaken appearance. No one seemed to be at work; and such as were not squatting under the walls were engaged in gambling. The presidio buildings occupied by the military, are in a state of ruin. Before going to camp, I rode to the quarters of the commanding officer, Colonel Medina, who had extend- ed many civilities to Colonel Craig and a surveying party of the Commission under Mr. John Bull, the preceding year, while reconnoitering the country be * Escudero, Noticias Estadisticas,de Chihuahua.—p. 56- 4 Db a =) 2 i i) a o Zz = AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 341 tween El Paso and the Copper Mines. The Colonel, however, was taking his siesta, and I had not the pleasure of seeing him. We found here seven Americans, who had left one of the emigrating parties a few days previous, in the belief that they could reach California by an easier route and at less expense than by keeping with the rest. Their plan was to go to Ures, Hermosillo, and Guay- mas, where they intended to take a vessel for San Francisco. On my representing to them all the diffi- culties that would attend a journey that way, and the delay they would be likely to meet with at Guaymas, where there might be no vessel leaving for a month, they became convinced of their error, and determined to leave the same evening, and endeavor to overtake their friends. This they could easily do, as they were on horseback, while the party they wished to rejoin Were travelling with ox-teams. But they were in trou- ble about their animals. Two of them, having strayed the adjoining town of Correlitos, he had left his party and commenced practice on the spot. He said he had 342 _ JANOS TO CORRELITOS, | in two weeks cleared three hundred dollars. He made his bargains beforehand, as he told us, and had just un- dertaken the case of a man who was to pay him $150 if he gave him relief, and $300 if he effected a cure. He seemed quite sanguine of getting the latter sum. August 8. A horse died last night from the bite of a rattlesnake received three days before. We start- ed this morning, pursuing a course south-east by east across an open and level plain about 12 miles in width, and of a desert-like character, which it assumes 1mme- diately after Jeaving the river. In one instance, I noticed a patch of grama grass half a mile in width, extending across the plain as far as the eye could reach. This desert, or plateau, is but little elevated above the bottom lands of the river, and is composed of a fine gravel. The bottom lands along the San Miguel are fertile, and yield abundant crops of wheat, corn, and the usual products of the country; although, at present, much of this fine soil has been suffered to run waste, on account of the hazard of cultivating 11- There was formerly much stock raised here; but s0 completely have the Indians got possession of the vicinity, that there are not horses and cattle enough left to cultivate the soil. The road continued excellent, and the train made good progress. On our left I noticed the course © the river winding across the plain, marked by a long line of cotton-woods. Crossing this plain, we pass around the base of some gravelly hills, and then com tinued in a more easterly direction over a similar pla- teau for ten miles, which brought us to Correlitos, & town standing on the eastern bank of the San Miguel, or Casas Grandes River, as it is called here. | | | SR aan i ce: ea aa a gee ie eR eT ee ee ee en ee ea eT Sa ae ee Sem Te uc epee AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 343 On arriving at the river, I found, greatly to my surprise, a large and rapid stream, much swollen by the late rains, and about 100 yards in width. At first we hesitated whether to cross the stream at once, or wait till the following morning; as the people said the water would then be several inches lower, provided there was no more rain. We concluded, however, to attempt it as it was; which was fortunate for us. After some search, a fordable place was found; and notwithstanding the strength of the current, we suc- ceeded with care in getting every thing over in safety. Asa general rule, it is best always to cross a stream immediately, so as to encamp on the opposite side ; for should there be a fall of rain, or an overflow of the tiver from other causes, it might be found impassable in the morning, and perhaps continue so for several days. Four mules which had been driven along sev- eral days with sore backs and otherwise disabled, being unfit to go further, were abandoned here. August 9th. Asa supply of fresh meat and vege- tables was wanted, I determined to remain here a few hours, and after breakfast walked to the town, about 4 quarter of a mile distant, to see what could be had ; for we were yet 160 miles from El Paso, and could Procure nothing after leaving this place. I had sent to the town immediately on our arrival last evening, to engage some cattle or sheep, and was told that they would be in the corral this morning for seleetion ; but when I called, they were still several miles off. Some men were sent after them; and in the mean time, I Went to examine some large furnaces, where the silver 1S extracted from the ore taken from a mine in the Vicinity, 344 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, Although these smelting works are a very indifferent and primitive affair, yet they are said to produce a large amount of silver, and to yield to their owner, Sefior Zu- loaga, a handsome income. The ore is taken from a mountain eighteen miles distant, and brought hither in carts to be smelted. The owner was absent; but the superintendent was very polite to us, taking us through the establishment and pointing out the several processes used in extracting the metal, as well as explaining to us the various qualities of ore. One of the greatest difficulties which attend the smelting here is the scarcity of firewood. As there are no forests near, the roots of mezquit bushes are almost exclusively used. These roots, it is true, afford excellent fuel; but they are obtained with much labor, and the supply must sooner or later cease, as no more is produced. Correlitos is a mud-built. modern town, containing about four hundred inhabitants, who depend wholly upon the mine and smelting works for their living. There is some fine bottom land near; but little of it is cultivated. . At the time of my visit, the streets were filled with mud holes, half full of putrid water, in which swine were wallowing; and the people looked sickly as well as filthy, caused by the strong fumes of arsenic which proceed from the furnaces and are disseminated through the town. These fumes were so powerful, that when the wind blew towards our camp, half a mile distant, they were quite offensive. The supe! intendent gave me some fine specimens of ore, as wi as of the product in its various stages as it undergoes reduction. a a ease ‘AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 345 The Apaches, I was informed, had been very bold here of late. Three weeks before our arrival a band of twenty-six had ventured within two miles of the town, where they surprised a party herding mules and cattle. They killed three men, and drove the animals off. These Indians had also, within the same period, run off a large portion of the stock of Mr. Flotte, an American living at Barranca Colorada four miles distant. No attempt at pursuit and recapture had been made. At 11 o’clock the beeves had not come in, nor the promised vegetables; and as it would require an hour or two after the cattle arrived to kill one and distribute the meat, making it too late to leave to-day, I directed the mules, which were already hitched up and ready to move, to be unharnessed and turned out to feed. To make the most of my time, I determined to visit Casas Grandes, a town twenty miles to the south of us, where there were said to be extensive ruins of an aboriginal race. Hastily puttig our blankets, -fire- arms, and some provisions into my wagon, Dr. Webb and myself, accompanied by a Mexican servant, set out On our excursion. ! | Thad long known of the existence of these ruins, | which are spoken of by various writers on Mexico, and had made frequent inquiries about them, daring the Winter I spent in El Paso, of old residents there and of persons from the city of Chihuahua, without getting “NY satisfactory account of them. All said there were Some old adobe buildings there in ruins; but whether they belonged to the present or to an earlier race of es they knew not. At any rate, all agreed that *Y Were not worth visiting. 346 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, . On reaching Correlitos, I made the same inquiries, but with no better results. When I had come to the conclusion that the ruins, of which so much had been said, must have crumbled away and’ disappeared, a Mexican who had heard of my inouiries, and who felt some interest in the antiquities of his country, called upon me, and advised me by all means to visit the place, now that I was within so short a distance of it, assuring me that there was much there to repay my curiosity. Following the river up in a course nearly south, we reached the village of Barranca Colorada, four miles distant, where I stopped to call on Mr, Lewis Flotte, an American gentleman long resident there, and the owner of a silver mine which is situated in the same mountain with that of Mr. Zuloaga, whose smelt- ing works I visited at Correlitos. Mr. Flotte had gone to Chihuahua; but his mayor-domo received us politely, and showed us'through his works, which are more extensive and better arranged than those at Correlitos. He had six furnaces, four of which were in full blast, while the hearths were being replaced on the others preparatory to their being lighted aga!- The machinery which kept the bellows in motion was propelled by mules. The superintendent took us through the establishment, describing the various processes, and gave us a set of specimens of the ores. We learnt here, as we did at Correlitos, that Mr. Flotte had been badly treated by the owner of the other mine, and that he was about to sell out his estate consequence. On my expressing a desire to visit this mine; which . AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 347 ‘ we should pass on our way to El Paso, the superinten- dent gave me a note to the mayor-domo at the mine, after which we resumed our journey. Following the riyer, which we crossed near Bar- ranca, we kept down the valley about sixteen miles, when we came to a beautiful grove of large cotton- wood trees, extending from the river across the bottom to the very bank or edge of the plateau, which here rises from twenty to twenty-five feet above the valley. Passing this grove, we suddenly emerged into a broad and luxuriant valley or bottom, extending as far as the eye could reach towards the south. -From the pla- teau, we could grace the course of the stream by the deep green foliage of the long line of cotton-woods which grow on its banks. From the point where I stood I noticed, about a mile distant, the ruins of a large building on the verge of the plateau, near which the road passed. As we approached, several others of lesser dimensions were seen, both on the platean and in the bottom near its base. It required but a glance at these buildings to show what they were, the first being a church, with its entire walls standing, together with a portion of its tower. Remains of tombs were also visible; but from the decayed and weather-worn appearance of the walls, the church had long been abandoned. The ruins near Were those of haciendas and ranchos, some of them quite extensive; from which I inferred that the town Was originally here, though it now stands two miles beyond. » As we entered the town, which bears on account of these ruins the name of Casas Grandes, we attracted * ca 348 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, much attention from its quiet and retired inhabitants, who, in this remote and secluded spot, are seldom dis- turbed by visitors, save those who come on some errand connected with the church. Casas Grandes is not a place of business, nor is it on any great thoroughfare, Ruins at Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. which would enable its citizens to derive advantage from passing travellers. Its whole dependence is upon the rich and luxuriant valley, which is here about two - PE Ss = ss = : Ruins at Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. alas wide, and which among Mexicahs would be said to be in a high state of oils vatien. This.is speak- ing Serre : for what in Mexico is considered AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. - ae stperior cultivation, would be thought very slovenly tillage in the United States. I had letters of introduction to two gentlemen living here, which I sent on in advance by my Mexi- can servant, that he might find the persons to whom they were addressed, and then’return and meet me. Unfortunately, both the gentlemen were absent. The man, however, had shown the letters to another gentle- man, who had read them, and who ‘requested that we should stop at his house. We accordingly drove up to a respectable looking adobe heuse, where we were met by well-dressed per- Sons, and received with much politeness. Being con- ducted into the house, we were scarcely seated before the room was pretty well filled with visitors, to see who the strangers were. I made myself and companion known, as well as the object ‘of our visit; viz, to see the ruins‘near by, or as they called them the ‘‘ Casas de Montezuma.” Our host soon began to make prepara- tions for dinner; but as it was then five o’clock, and but little time remained before dark, I requested him to defer the meal until evening, that we might make the most of our time in examining the ruins while day- light lasted. _ o This being arranged, Dr. Webb and myself set off for the ruins, accompanied by our host and three or four others. Being but halfa mile from the village, they were soon reached, when, after a hasty walk among them, I seated myself on a small knoll, or mound, and occupied myself while there remained any light in - Making a sketch. The Doctor, in the mean time, was ®ngaged in searching among them for relics. We re- 350 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, turned while we could see to find our way back through the thick mezquit chapporal, and partook of an excel- lent supper with such appetites as people might be sup- posed to have who had not eaten since sunrise. The evening was spent in questioning our friend about the ruins, and in selecting. some fragments of pottery from a peck or more which the boys who had accompanied us had picked up, I having set them to work for the purpose. The ruins of Casas Grandes, or Great Houses, face the cardinal points, and consist of fallen and erect walls, the latter varying in height from five to thirty,feet, and often projecting above the heaps of others which have fallen and crumbled away. If the height were esti- mated from their foundations, it would be much greater, particularly of those in the central parts of the build- ing, where the fallen walls and rubbish form a mound twenty feet.above the ground. If, therefore, the high- est walls now standing have their foundation on the lowest level, they have a height of from forty to fifty feet; and as these ruins have stood exposed to the elements for more than three. centuries, they must originally have been much higher. Indeed the thick- ness of the walls, some of which are five feet at their base, would indicate that they must have been much higher than they now appear. From a close examination of what remains of the building or buildings, I came to the conclusion that the outer portions were the lowest, and not above one story in height, while the central ones were from three to six stories. Hence the large heaps of ruined walls | and rubbish in the centre, and in consequence the bet- * SSE ee ge ee re CESS Te ee sth YES ES Pan oe RR epee eae eee AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. = *_- 351. ter preservation and support of that portion of the edi- fice. By far the larger portions which have fallen are the exterior walls. This arises from the moisture of the earth and the greater exposure to rains. The cen- tral parts are in a measure protected by the accumula- tion of rubbish, and by the greater thickness of their walls. I should observe that every portion of this edifice is built of adobe, or mud, and that nowhere, as far as T could trace the foundations, could I discover any Walls of stone. The point in which it differs from the work of the Spaniards or modern Mexicans, is in the mode of constructing the walls. The latter employ regularly made brick, from fourteen to sixteen inches in length, about twelve in width, and three or four in thickness, often mixed with chopped straw and gravel, , and baked in the sun—a mode adopted ages ago by the Primitive inhabitants of Egypt, Assyria, and other Oriental countries, and practised by them at the pre- sent day. But the buildings of which I now speak are built with large blocks of mud, or what the Mexi- cans call tapia, about twenty-two inches in thickness, and three feet or more in length. In fact, the length of these blocks seemed to vary, and their precise dimensions could not be traced; which induced me to believe that some kind of a case or box was used, into Which the mud was placed, and as it dried, these cases Were moved along. It is true, they may have been first made in moulds or cases, and, after being dried, placed on the walls; but the irregularity and want of uniformity in these layers as to their length, leads me to believe they were made on the walls themselves. 352 JANOS TO CORRELITOS,, * * The mud is filled with coarse gravel from the plateau, which gives greater hardness to the material. In this respect I consider it superior to the modern adobe, which is oftener made without any gravel or straw, although in the better class of buildings, I have seen both used. In the town of El Paso there are some old division * walls from three to four feet high, connected with the earliest buildings in the place, that are built of large blocks of adobe, well filled with gravel, of a similar character with those in the ‘ Casas Grandes ;” but in no~ buildings of the Mexicans have I seen them used. | have also seen modern fences made in the same man- ner of the common mud taken from the fields. All adobe walls, whether of buildings or mere fences, decay first at their base, from the moisture; which , ‘causes them to fall over. Such is the case with the modern as well as the ancient buildings. When pros- trate, the water easily permeates them ; in a few years they crumble in pieces, and are reduced to the original mud and gravel from which they were made. The outer walls of the Casas Grandes are only to be traced by long lines of rounded heaps parallel to, or at right angles with, the walls now standing; while here and there a corner of the original wall may be seen, or where it was intersected by a transverse wall which tended to support the other and bind them to- gether. These corners often retain their erect post tions long after the other portions have fallen. So with the higher and more massive walls of the interior, which are five feet in thickness at their base: the sides or longer walls have “fallen, while the corners, with & AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 353 few feet on either side, still tower far above the other parts, resembling at a distance the isolated columns of a ruined temple. In so ruinous a state are these buildings, that it is extremely difficult to trace their original form. In approaching them one first meets with the low walls or embankment, which any where else would be taken for a work of nature; but the transverse heaps connecting them with the standing walls at once show them to have been similar, though of less height. A closer inspection brings to view a portion of a corner which has not fallen. As the vis-_ itor approaches the interior, where the edifice is in a better state of preservation, he becomes confused among the erect and fallen portions; for the longer _ Sides are mostly prostrated, while the shorter ones, and those forming angles, are standing. In this dilemma I found it best to take a stand upon the highest point, Which is a mound in the very centre of the erect Walls, as well as the centre of the edifice. From this point, after having examined and traced the exterior portion, one may forma tolerably correct idea as to the rangement of the edifice. It was not until I had walked Several times around it and traced its inner apartments, | that I could satisfy myself of its actual outline. At first I believed that there were three separate buildings, even when I took my sketch, as there were three large heaps, apparently unconnected, each having Portions of erect walls. But on closer examination, I found that they had been connected by a low range of buildings, which may have been merely courts, as they Were of but one story. On the supposition, there- fore, that all were connected either by low buildings or VOL. 11.—23 ee 354 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, corridors, the entire edifice must have extended from north to south at least 800 feet, and from east to west about 250. On the south side a regular and continuous wall can be traced, while the eastern and western fronts are extremely irregular, with projecting walls. There appears to have been several courts within the inclo- sure, of greater or less dimensions. The general character of this extensive range of buildings is the same as that of the Casas Grandes, near the Pimo villages, on the Gila, and they are unquestion- ably the work of the same people. The material, too, is the same as that of the ruins on the Salinas. Like the edifice on the Gila, it is built with huge blocks of mud,, laid up in the same manner, though, from some cause, probably the lesser tenacity of the adobe, the walls are in a greater state of decay. In no other way - can this decay be accounted for, unless a greater an- tiquity is allowed for these than for the Gila edifice, which would be contrary to all preconceived opinions of them. Theruinous state of these buildings may also be attributed to the more frequent rains to which they are exposed than those on the Gila. - The walls of the present building are much decay- ed; in fact one half of their thickness is washed away; and it is only by digging below the surface that their original thickness can be seen. In the Gila edifice, the inner surface of the walls is as perfect as though the mason had but yesterday passed his trowel over them, and the exterior ones are but little injured. In these ruins, on the contrary, no portion of the surface 1S visible. I sought for this, in order to ascertain if they had been plastered inside or out; but it could only be a 4 i" 3 a j k, 4 & a 4 : AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 355 decided by digging to the foundation, which I had not time to do. Several portions of the walls within | the area, and in particular one midway between the most southwardly building and the one to the north, had fronts precisely like that on the Gila; their doors were similarly placed, and receded towards the top, and the same circular openings were seen in the upper partition walls. So much of the walls had washed away, that I could not trace the cavities where the beams were inserted, and hence was unable, as in the Gila edifice, to ascertain the number of stories, or how the beams were laid. Not a fragment of the wood forming the beams or lintels could be discerned. Many doorways remained; but the lintels being gone, the tops had crumbled away or fallen. | Although these ruins are alluded to by many of the earlier as well as the recent writers on Mexico, I © have been unable to find in any author an accurate or full description of them. I have been particularly de- sirous to see some early account, that I might know their appearance when first seen by the Spanish colo- nists, who traversed this country anterior to the year 1600. Ribas, one of the earliest writers on the abori- ginal tribes, who has given the most minute details of the labors of the first missionaries, and the conversion of the several tribes of Central and Northern Mexico, Says nothing of these remains, although he describes the nation that occupied the country where they are found, their manners, customs, religion, ete. I find, however, in Clavigero* a brief account, which that * History of Mexico. 8vo. ed. vol. i. p. 151, _ 356 | JANOS TO CORRELITOS, laborious investigator doubtless had authority for. He repeats the old story that this edifice, ‘‘agreeably to the universal tradition of these people, was built by the Mexicans in their peregrination.” That it con- sisted of ‘ three floors with a terrace above them, and without any entrance to the under floor. The door | for entrance to the building is on the second floor, so that a scaling ladder is necessary.” This would show that at some period since the settlement of the country its floors remained. The other details in Clavigero are incorrect, and unquestionably refer to another edifice, which was built ~ of stone, was roofed, and ‘surrounded by a wall seven feet thick.” He also calls it a “fortress,” which term cannot be applied to this structure. I am of opinion that our author either mistook the sense of the writer he obtained his information from, or has blended the descriptions of two different buildings. Garcia Conde also states* that this edifice is known to have had “three stories and a roof, with stairs out- side probably of wood,” and that the same kind of structures are found at the present time among the pu- eblos of the independent Mogquis,” north of the Gila. He also repeats the story of the Aztec emigration, and that this was the third stopping-place of that people on their way from the North to the valley of Mexico. There is a class of apartments in this edifice, the object of which I am unable to conjecture, unless they were intended as depositories for maize, beans, 2? other agricultural products, or in other words, 2 gt * Ensayo Estadistico sobre el Estado de Chihuahua, fol. p. 74 AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 357 nary. These apartments, which are arranged along one of the main walls, are twenty feet, in length, by ten in breadth, connected by doorways with a small TIT! Part of Ground Plan of the Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, inclosure, or pen, in one corner between three and four feet high. Beside these, there are many other exceed- ingly harrow apartments, too contracted for dwelling- places or sleeping-rooms, with connecting doorways, and into which the light was admitted by circular apertures in the upper part of the walls. The number and extent of these long and narrow apartments, with- out windows, led me to believe they were used for granaries, There were also large halls; and some in- closures within the walls are so extensive, that they Could never have been covered with a roof, but must have been open courts. The lesser ranges of buildings, Which surrounded the principal one, may have been Cccupied by the people at large, whose property was deposited within the great building for safe keeping. Although there is less order in the tout ensemble of this great collection of buildings than in those at the north; the number. of small apartments, the several Stages or stories, the courts within, and some of the minor details, resemble in many respects the large edifices of the semi-civilized or Pueblo Indians of New €X1co, ; The position of these buildings differs from that of those near the Gila and the Salinas. The latter Were built upon the plateau or table, just above the 358 JANOS TO CORRELITOS. bottom land which their occupants had cultivated. The former stand on the declivity, with portions extending both on the plateau and on the bottom. The bank here is about twenty feet in height. Why so built I cannot imagine, unless excavations were made in the bank for store rooms. Wherever these old structures are found,. they show much sagacity on the part of their builders, who must have had some object in view in adopting the plan just mentioned. As a general custom at the present day, among the Mex- icans, their villages and ranchos are built upon the plateau above the valley, or cultivated bottom, and on spots where there is no vegetation, except such plants as are peculiar to the deserts. Not a blade of grass can flourish there. I supposed this to be for two rea- sons: first, that the valleys are sometimes overflowed, and in rainy seasons are extremely wet and damp ; while on the gravelly plateau, which is hard and smooth, it is always dry. The second reason is, that being elevated, the people have a good view of their cultivated grounds, can trace their cattle and herds with ease, and discover the approach of an enemy. On the western or upper side, some sixty 10 eighty yards from the building, are three mounds of loose stones, about fifteen feet high, no doubt the burial places of the chiefs or great men. I would have opened these, but had not the time or facilities for so doing. If these were burial places, and there are no indications of places of sepulture elsewhere, some valuable relics might be found beneath them. _ Imade particular inquiry of my Mexican friends, who were familiar with every spot of ground in this AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 359 vicinity, whether they had ever discovered the Campo Santo, or burial ground, of the builders of these edifi- ces; but they all declared they had found none. West of these, about two hundred feet distant on the plateau, are the remains of a building, the dimen- sions of which I did not take, but think it about 150 feet square. But small portions of its walls remain— enough, however, to show the nature of the building, which could not have been more than one story high. It was divided into a number of compartments, of equal dimensions, except the corner ones, and resem- bled some of the low buildings connected with the large edificeradjacent. ___ The following is an outline of the groynd plan as indicated by the lines of the walls. TIL = _ PITT Ground Plan of one of the Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. The plain for some distance south, I was told, was covered with traces of old buildings; but they were mere heaps, without a distinct form to show the nature of the original structure. In the valley they are also found. Garcia Conde also mentions* a second class of * Ensayo Estadistico sobre el Estado de Chihuahua, p. 75. * rae 360 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, ruins, which are very numerous along the margin of the Casas Grandes and Janos rivers, for a length of twenty leagues and a breadth of ten. Ata short dis- tance, he says, they uniformly have the appearance of small hills or mounds, and in all that have been excavated, there have been found jars (cantaros), pitchers, ollas,* etc., of pottery, painted with white, blue, and scarlet colors; corn grinders (metates), and stone axes, but no instrument of iron. The builders of this edifice, and the occupants of the rich valley in the vicinity, showed much sagacity in their choice of so fine a region for agricultural purposes. There is none equal to it from dhe low lands of Texas, near San Antonio, to the fertile valleys of California, near Los Angeles; and, with the excep- tion of the Rio Grande, there is no river of equal size Between those of Eastern Texas and the Colorado of California. The water, too, is clear and sweet, unlike the muddy waters of the Rio Grande, the Pecos, and the Colorado, which are charged with vegetable mat- ~ ter and earth. Many beautiful articles of pottery have from time to time been found here, the texture of which is much superior to that made at the present day by the Mex- icans. This pottery has chiefly a white or a red ground, ornamented with a variety of angular figures: * Ollas (pronounced oyas) are the most common of all the utensils of pottery used by the Indians or present Mexicans. They are of various capacities, from half a pint to six gallons. Suspended by @ cord over the fire they are used for cooking in, and are in universal use for carrying water. The household utensils of the poorer Mexicans consist entirely of an assortment of these useful articles. FRAGMENTS OF ANCIENT POTTERY FROM CASAS (GRANDES, CHTHUAHUA, F AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES, 361 _ those ‘on the white ground being black, red, or brown ; and on the darker material, black. I made inquiry for any relics that had been found, and: was successful in obtaining a few. One of these was a small black jar; another a vessel in the form of a tortoise, of reddish pottery; and the third a beautifully sculptured stone pipe. Such relics are eagerly sought for by the peo- ple of Chihuahua and other large towns, and+when perfect command a high price. I heard of many such; but they were in towns beyond my reach. I request- ed a friend to procure ‘drawings of these and, forward them to me, but have not yet received them, and the only addition I am able to make to those which I obtained, is a drawing from one found by Lieut. Hardy, 4 copy of which I give, rather to show the style © of ornament than the form.* JI also saw, at the house of the gentleman who was so polite to us, a fine metate taken from the ruins, about two feet in length, handsomely cut from a block of dark stone, a drawing of which I made. Similar ones are occasionally — found there; and in my rambles I saw several broken ones, : The whole valley and plain for miles about these Tuins is strewed with fragments of pottery. I collect- ed a@ number of specimens exhibiting various patterns, In order to show the taste of the makers in ornamental Hardy's Travels in the Interior of Mexico in 1825-8. This author spent a couple of hours at these ruins, and procured the jar re- ferred to, which he says was in excellent preservation. “There were also,” continued he, “good specimens of earthen images in the Egyp- Han styles which are, to me at least, so perfectly uninteresting, that I Yas at no pains to procure any of them.” p. 465. - 362 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, design, as well as for the purpose of comparing them with the pottery found at the Gila and the Salinas. They will also serve for comparison with the pottery of the Moquis, Zuiis, and other Pueblo Indians, as well as with the ornaments made by the present Pimos -and Coco-Maricopas. When so little remains of a people, the smallest fragments of their works of art become important. It is for this reason I have given so many specimens of their ornaments. On the summit of the highest mountain south-west of the ruins, and about ten miles distant, there was pointed out to me an ancient fortress of stone, from which the whole country for a vast extent can be viewed. Itis attributed to the same people who erected the “(Casas Grandes,” and was doubtless in- tended as a look-out. This fortress can be discerned with the naked eye, and on looking at it through my spy-glass, it showed quite distinctly. I did not visit it, as it would have required a day, which time I could - not spare. We were told that this building was a stone for- tress of two or three stories, with a very solid founda- tion. I think that the description of Clavigero refers both to the adobe edifices I have described and to this fortress, and that the worthy historian was not — aware of their being separate structures.* * This edifice is constructed on the plan of those of New Mexico, that is, consisting of three floors, with a terrace above them, and with- out any entrance to the lower floor. The doorway is in the second story, so that a scaling ladder is necessary ; and the inhabitants of New Mexico build in this manner, in order to be less exposed to the os of their enemies. No doubt the Aztecs had the same motives for raising is i ; ij ify Wi] = ( at RELICS FOUND AT CASAS GRANDES, CHIHUAHUA.—p. 362. AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 363 a The Casas Grandes River rises about a hundred miles N. W. from the city of Chihuahua, whence it flows in a course nearly north by the town and ruins of the same name, the towns of Barranca, Colorada, Correlitos, and Janos, and, after a course of 624 leagues, is discharged into Lake Guzman. It receives a tribu- tary nine miles north of Janos; a second one at that town, which bears its name; and a third about ten miles below the ruins called Temeivaca. Yet not- withstanding these tributaries and the large volume of water, it often dries up, and remains only in pools barely sufficient for the population and the herds of cattle which graze upon its banks. The valley here is about two miles in width, covered with luxuriant fields of grass, wheat, and corn. The river passing through its centre is marked by a line of gigantic cotton-woods, while in various detached spots are groups of the same. The acequias Which intersect the valley in every direction, are, like the river, lined with a thick growth of shrubbery. eyond the valley rises the plateau, which has a gradual ascent to a low range of hills about eight miles distant ; beyond which, with some miles of inter- their edifices on this plan, as every mark of a fortress is to be observed about it, being defended on one side by a lofty mountain, and the rest of it being defended by awall about seven feet thick; the foundations are still existing. In this fortress are stones as large as a mill-stone, to be seen: the beams of the roof are of pine, and well finished. In the centre of this vast fabric is a little mount, made on purpose, by what ‘ppears, to keep guard on, and observe the enemy. There have been some ditches found in this place, and a variety of domestic utensils, earthen Pans, pots, jars, and little looking-glasses of it2/z (obsidian).— Clavige- : 70's Mexico, P 364 © JANOS.TO CORRELITOS, a . yening space, rises a lofty ridge of mountains. I took two general views of the ruins, one from the west, seated on the top of the little mounds referred to, in which the whole extent of the buildings is shown, with the valley and: mountains beyond. This I have shown in three parts, to exhibit them more distinctly. Two of these are wood cuts; the third, the small lithograph. The other is taken from a point near the south-eastern corner, showing portions of the walls which are not seen in the first sketch. This view 1s given in the large lithograph facing the title-page of this volume. As may be seen in the sketches, low mezquit bushes have taken root around the buildings, as well among its walls as in its apartments. On the west, the plateau extends to a range of low mountains, about five miles distant, running in a line from north- west to south-east. The river bottom and adjacent plateau are about fifteen miles in width, which is about the average width from Janos td Casas Grandes. Proceeding south, these mountains appear to approach, thereby contracting the plateau and valley. The latter, I was told, continues fertile far to the south, ‘and is as highly cultivated as any portion of the country. he August 10th. From our hospitable friends we learnt that the town contained about 400 inhabitants. They are strictly an agricultural population, and have extensive fields of grain and orchards near. Maize 18 the chief product, and is sent in large quantities to Chihuahua and El Paso, where it finds a ready market. The people seemed industrious and happy, and were apparently in a better condition than we had found ee a | 3 ; ’ AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 365 them in the other frontier towns. They are somewhat troubled by the Apaches; and we noticed two crosses near the ruins, and four on the road to Correlitos, the evidences of their murderous propensities. We were up by sunrise, and found a cup of coffee ready for us; after which we again set out for the ruins, accompanied by four men, wlio I had engaged to dig among them. We first dug in a large apartment where some metates had been discovered, and which it,was believed had been a sort of kitchen : ; but we found nothing but broken pottery, an obsidian arrow-head, and some # small marine shells. Leaving Dr. Webb to superintend these excayations, I set to work to take a ground plan of the buildings, as far as it was possible to do so; but the Mexicans who undertook to assist me were far from adepts in the business, and caused me much annoy- ance. This was not a little increased by the troops of men, women, and children, who flocked around me until it seemed that half the population had turned out, apparently with the idea that we possessed some secret information regarding buried treasures there. I was unable to complete my survey of the edifice and its humerous walls, which # would have required the labor of several men, for at least two days, to accomplish ina satisfactory manner. At 11 o'clock, being pretty tired and hungry, we returned to the house of our friend to breakfast; after which the wagon was brought up, and we set out on our | Teturn to Correlitos, where we arrived at four o'clock - _ Well blessed with our excursion. ee apie oe ees 366 " .. GORRELITOS CHAPTER XXXVI. CORRELITOS TO EL PASO. Leave Correlitos*-Visit the Silver Mines of Messrs. Flotte and» Zuloaga— Attempt of a peon to escape—Rio Santa Maria—Recent fight of pRattdae with the Apaches here—Broad open plains—Continued rain—The Salado—The Médanos, or Sand-hills—Painful night’s march —Samalayuca—Arrival at El Paso del Norte. August 18th. We left Correlitos at 8 o'clock, AM, and took an easterly course over a plain of very gen- tle ascent for about fifteen miles towards a conical mountain. We then entered a defile, and soon after reached the base of the mountain, where we found water, and encamped. In this conical mountain are the two silver mines of Sefior Zuloaga and Mr. Flotte, whose smelting works we had visited at Correlitos and Barranca. AS soon as the camp was arranged, I set off with several others to inspect them. The mines are on the oppo site sides of a ravine or indentation, which makes up into the mountain, and their ent are not more than a hundred yards apart. On the hill sides, around and above the entrances, are the habitations of the work- men; most of them.are built of the rock excavated in mining, and from a little distance have a most singular appearance.: TO EL PASO. : 367 I first went to Mr. Flotte’s mine. I presented my letter of introduction to the superintendent, a native Castilian, and was received by him with the politeness that characterizes his countrymen. After sitting a short time in his house near the entrance, we were each provided with torches; whereupon we descended the mine, following the footsteps of our guide, the super- intendent himself It was quite muddy, owing to the late rains. The shaft was between six and seven feet high, branching off in various directions. We traced it to its bottom, which was eighty varas, or about 240 feet, from the entrance. The principal vein of ore is about five inches in thickness; there is also another of one inch. Both have a dip of about 45 degrees. The entire length of the various shafts is 300 varas, or 820 feet. On returning to the house of our attentive guide, he presented us with fine specimens of the ore. We did not go further than the entrance of the other mine ; as it was late, and the mine did not materially differ from the one we had examined. “ August 12th. Our journey to-day was twenty-five miles. After leaving camp, our road wound for a cou- ple of miles through the hills, and then emerged into a broad plain, interspersed at intervals of two or three miles with conical hills, from one to three hundred feet in height. Some of these were capped with a ridge or mass of stone, of areddish color, resembling a work of art. Five miles further brought us to Walnut Creek, asmall run of water, which is dry except at this sea- Son, and even then contains but little water. Half a: dozen walnut trees of a small size, grow upon its , Whence its name. After crossing this rivulet, * 368 CORRELITOS our course was north-east without variation, over a slightly undulating plain, covered with grama grass. A dark line of trees now showed itself far in the dis- ‘tance, indicating a water-course, which we reached at 5 o'clock, and which proved to be the Santa Maria. The road had been excellent since leaving Correlitos, including the mountain defile. A heavy cloud arose as we approached the stream ; and we had barely got our tents pitched and well stayed, before it burst over our heads, accompanied by a violent wind. When a few miles from camp this morning, a man got up from behind a bush, where he appeared to have been concealed, and joined the train. He proved to be a Mexican, who wished to accompany us to El Paso. Soon after two men on horseback overtook us, - and handed me a note from the superintendent of the mine, stating that one of his men had run away, and asking permission to take him in case he had joined our train. I could not, of course, interfere in the matter, and gave orders that the men should not be obstructed in arresting the runaway. The poor fellow, who was a peon, was very reluctant to return; but his captors were armed with sabres and rifles, and all resistance was unavailing. As we journeyed on, we saw blows inflicted on the poor creature, who was, DO doubt, destined to spend the remainder of his days at hard labor for the benefit of his owner. Our Mexican arrieros were anxious to liberate him; but as we were on Mexican territory, with liberty to go whither we pleased in the performance of our official duties, inter- ference would have been unjustifiable. August 13th. We remained two hours longer than ee : [SS eA Ere sa oe ch cela eee TO EL PASO. | . 369 usual this morning, to give the mules a chance to feed. Near us were some walls of old stone buildings, where -a number of stone arrow-heads, and clippings of jasper, flint, and obsidian were found, showing that here had been a work-shop of the natives. A few weeks previous, a party of four Americans was here surprised and surrounded by a band of some 15 or 20 Apaches. The men were armed with rifles and pistols, which enabled them to keep the savages. at bay. Whenever the latter exposed themselves, the Americans gave them a shot, and killed, as they be- lieved, several. ~ After being thus encompassed for three days, protected in a measure from the arrows of the enemy by a little wall which they raised, and after they had all been wounded, one of their number crept out at night and made his way to Correlitos, where he applied for relief. It was granted; but they were compelled to pay $500 for it. T ascended a hill near our camp, from which I could trace the course of the Santa Maria, by the line of trees along its banks. A broad plain extended for many miles on either side without a tree or a shrub. — Our course continued north-east, without change, Over the same level plain we had been traversing, of clay or gravel, with occasional patches of grass and a few mezquit bushes. Passed some holes of rain-water, where we stopped to water our animals. The hills and mountains, which here and there rose up from the plain, Were quite picturesque, the conical and pyramidal forms Prevailing with the hills; while the mountains, which Were from 1500 to 2000 feet high, presented the most tastic outlines, resembling castles, domes, and min- OL. 1,—24 . e ie CORRELITOS arets. Some of these were of a deep red, others of a yellowish cast. There were no continuous ranges to be seen; but all were isolated, or in groups, rising abruptly and extending but a few miles. At 3 o’clock, the usual black cloud began to rise at the south, portending rain, which warned us to make our camp before it reached us. We took advantage of a little patch of grass, where the animals might obtain a scanty meal, and stopped. Every man with- out exception, at once set to work; and within a very short space of time the tents were pitched, trenches dug, and the camp-fires made. Scarcely was this completed, when the storm was upon us; and but for the extra ropes and stays put to the tents, all would have been blown away. But as it was, we sat quietly within, listening to the peals of thunder, and watching the vivid flashes of lightning. We needed not to seek for a stream or a spring, for in a very few minutes the depressions in the plain around our camp furnished an ample supply, both for man and _ beast. We made 18 miles to-day, over an excellent road. The country around is of a most desolate character. August 14th. Six miles from camp brought us to a hill, on which was a smooth rock covering about half. an acre, to the right of the road. In this rock I count- ed twenty-six artificial cavities within a few feet of each other. They were from twelve to eighteen inches deep, and about six in diameter; and had been dug out by the Indians for mortars in which to pound their maize. The place was thickly covered with various kinds of cacti as well as the agave and yucca. The common prickly pear abounded with its luscious look- 5 ] { P : ; 4 ; } : 7 i 4 4 , d TO EL PASO. 371 ing but unwholesome fruit, of which our men partook with some caution.* From the summit of this rocky hill, which is about three hundred feet high, we had a fine view of the vast plain around us, stretching in every direction as far as the eye could reach, and unlimited by any continuous range of mountains. Short isolated ridges rose up at intervals of from ten to twenty miles, and between them the conical hills before referred to. Immediate- ly below, about a mile distant, was the Salado, or Salt Lake, from two to four miles across; although after rains it is doubtless much larger. Some ten or fifteen miles to the north-west, I noticed what appeared to be another small lake, which may have been the Laguna de Santa Maria. Although from its whitish appear- ance, it may have been but the salt bed of a dry lake.t I took asketch of the country here, with a curious cone- shaped hill in the foreground, on the summit of which is a mass of rocks resembling a tower. Similarly crown- ed hills were seen during the day’s march. We made a noon halt at some pools of fresh water hear the Salado; as it was my intention to go as far as possible to-day, so as to shorten the march of to-mor- tow, in which we did not expect to meet with any * It is said that too much of this fruit will cause fever and ague. Whether this be true or not, I cannot say; although I do know, that on several occasions, illness was produced by a too free use of it. t In my former journeys, we frequently saw these playas, or dry lakes ; and even when within a quarter of a mile, it was utterly impos- sible to say, whether they contained water or not. On these = the party would be equally divided in opinion, nor could all be satisfied Until we really touched them. . 372 CORRELITOS water. We got off again at 4 o’clock, but had not gone more than eight miles before the heavens began to be obscured by a black cloud, which rose behind a lofty pinnacled mountain on our right, one of the most singu- lar and picturesque we had seen. Mr. Leroux rode ahead with others, to search for a patch of grass, as the plain around us was almost destitute of vegetation. Fortunately he found a small one where the hungry animals might obtain a scanty feed, a short distance in advance, where we halted. We made but fifteen miles to-day, a short march; but in this, and many other _ days’ journeys, we were compelled to stop short of our intended places of encampment, in order to get up our tents and arrange the camp before the rain came on. Istood guard this night, and found it rather uncom- fortable, as it rained most of the time; yet I made my hourly rounds, ‘stumbling several times over mules, which I could not see in the darkness. August 15th. Keeping a north-easterly course, our whole day’s march was over a broad plain with few undulations, and no hills or mountains near; the road good as before. The day was damp and cloudy. At 4 o'clock, p. u., we stopped, having travelled about twenty miles. | We now approached the most dreaded portion of our journey since crossing the Tucson desert, south of the Gila. This was the Médanos, or Sand-hills.’ All the emigrants we had met spoke of these, and the great difficulties that attended their passage. By _ doubling their ox-teams, that is, by putting from 12 to 15 oxen to each wagon, they had succeeded in passing them. Two trips were thus required for each = ‘VOHVOHINO ‘OGVIVS SNL NOW MITA ‘NIVIa MsHa a ST re er er aS ee ee ee a = ot TO EL PASO. 373 team, occupying the whole of two nights and one day to accomplish the passage, although but six miles across. Owing to the intense heat and glare of the sun on the white sand, the crossing was never attempted except at night. “We were now favored by the rain; and it was thought best, notwithstanding our day’s march, to, make the passage of the hills this night; the weather would be cooler and the sand more compact from the . rain. : ie The place where we stopped was about two miles from the sand hills. We accordingly dined, and let the animals feed, and at 7 o'clock, p. m., resumed our march. Upon consultation, it was thought best for Leroux to leave a couple of hours in advance of the wagons with the train of pack-mules, and go as far as Samalayuca, a spring two miles beyond the hills, in case he could not find water nearer. He was then to discharge his loads and return to the wagons, to give us such aid as might be necessary. ' The first three miles were not very bad ; for though the sand was loose, it was not deep; still it was a ‘Steady pull up a gradual ascent. As we proceeded, the sand grew deeper, and the vegetation less, until nothing but a few half-buried mezquit bushes were to € seen. An aromatic shrub was also noticed here. — At a great depth there is probably some moisture Which sustaing these plants; but even with this, it is remarkable how they can survive in the midst of such an intense and dry heat, in a spot where, for more than nine months in the year, there is no rain. Every thing ‘round us had a strange wintry aspect, the white sand tesembling banks of snow, from which the tops of the 374 CORRELITOS bushes projected. At nine o'clock, Leroux returned to us with the pack-mules, when we stopped and unloaded the wagons, 'to transfer their contents to the animals’ backs. It was now raining fast; and as the. mules had had a tedious march over the sant hills and back, Leroux thought it best to remain where he was until: day-light, while we pushed forward with the _ wagons, now almost empty. Slowly and with hard tugging, we again advanced, but not noiselessly ; for the incessant hooting and yell- ing of the teamsters, accompanied by the cracking of their huge whips, and not a few of those terrible oaths which they seem to consider it their privilege to use, made the air resound in the midst of the solitude that reigned around us. At every fifty feet it was neces sary to stop, and let the tired animals breathe and get a moment’s rest; then would the air resound again with the screams of the men and the lashing of the whips; then was every shoulder literally put to the wheels and the back parts of the wagons, before they could again be started. But with all this pulling and pushing, this hard swearing and beating, the poor jaded animals often stalled, and could not, with all the aid the men could give them, start the wagons an inch. The team was then doubled; and when the twelve mules had succeeded in hauling the wagon up some little rise, the descent would prove a great relief, and enable them to get forward a few rods unaided. The reader will have an idea of the sand here, when I state that the hub of the fore wheel was only the breadth of my hand above its surface. This too, was with wagons not half filled, and ata time when TO EL PASO, 375 the hills are easier to pass than at any other, on account of the rain, which packs the sand, and prevents the wheels from sinking as deep as they would if it was entirely dry. In this manner we pushed and pulled, making a gradual though slow headway, until one o’clock, when the mules refused to go farther. The poor creatures held their noses to the ground, and patiently bore the beating of their cruel drivers. It was all to no pur- pose ; further they would not go. In the five hours we had been tugging, we had not made more than four miles through the hills, and there were yet about two miles more before we should get through. There Was no alternative left but to remain until morning, by Which time the animals would get a few hours’ rest. As my carratella (little wagon) was quite light, and my mules in good condition, I pushed forward, going myself on foot, and before four o’clock in the morring passed the hills, and reached the place where Mr. Leroux had stopped with the packs. Several of the wagons also managed to get through, leaving only three behind. This had been one of the most tedious nights of our long journey. Iwas on my feet from 7 o'clock in the evening, when we entered the sand-hills, till four in the morning, making nine hours, in which time We advanced but eight miles. It rained the whole lught; yet such was my fatigue, that several times, When the mules stopped to rest, or became stalled, I threw myself on the wet sand and stole a few moments’ Sleep; - | On reaching camp, I sent back six mules, which, — 376 CORRELITOS with those left with the wagons, enabled them all to get through a few hours later. We did not go on to the spring talked of, which was two miles further, but — stopped at some holes of rain water immediately at the foot of the hills. The Médanos, or Sand-hills, are a peculiar feature in this country, stretching in a line from north-west to south-east for some twenty miles, as far as I could judge. Nearly destitute of vegetation, their light yel- low or whitish appearance presents a strong contrast to the deep brown of the adjacent mountains, which form the background of the landscape. This sand is very light and fine, and forms deep ridges resembling the large waves of the ocean. When the wind blows, this sand is set in motion, filling up the former valleys, and forming new drifts or hills. The road is then entirely obliterated; not a foot-print or wagon rut being left to show its direction. The whitened bones of mules and cattle project here and there from the sand, with an occasional carcass which has dried up before the wolves discovered it. Although these hills lie on the direct road from El Paso to the city of Chi- huahua, which is shorter than any other by sixty miles, itis invariably avoided by trains or loaded wagons. These take the river route, which passes entirely beyond their furthest southern extremity. Persons on horseback, pack-mules, and light pleasure wagons, alone attempt to cross the hills. : : The place is also attended with danger on account of the Apaches, who well know the helpless condition of animals passing, and take the opportunity to attack parties. From Correlitos, there is no other to El] Paso TO EL PASO. | 377 for wagons; and a train loaded with corn from the ° Casas Grandes valley, was attacked here a year before _ by these savages, and all the mules driven off. The distance travelled the last twenty-four hours from beyond the Salado was twenty-eight miles, including the passage of the Médanos. August 16th. All, both men and animals, were so much exhausted with fatigue, that we were compelled to lie by to-day. In the afternoon, we had the usual shower. i: August 17th. Two miles brought us to the spring known as Samalayuca. It is a complete oasis in the desert, and consists of a small pool of water, in and around which are bushes and trees. It seems to be placed here by nature, for the weary and thirsty trav- eller, by whom the route would else be impassable. On the west there is not usually any water nearer than the Salado, thirty miles distant, which is also the dis- tance of El Paso, the nearest point to the north. Hast- ward is San Eleazario, twenty miles. The rain of yesterday had made the road so heavy,” that I feared we should not reach El Paso as I wished. But a few hours’ heat of the sun so improved its con- dition, that I determined to push on in advance of the tain; and as we were near our journey’s end for the Present, I did not hesitate to force my mules to their utmost. We ascended gradually from the spring for about ten miles, when we reached the level platean, Which was as smooth and barren as any desert we had Seen. About ten miles from El Paso, the road descends from the highest table to a lower terrace, and for five miles continues over broken ground with low hills and 378 . CORRELITOS ’ gullies, when it strikes the bottom-land of the Rio Grande, The sight of the rich valley of this river, with its groves and forests of cotton-wood, filled my mind with the most pleasing emotions. I was again approaching civilization, at a place too where I had passed an agreeable winter, and where I had many kind friends. This long journey from the Pacific, which had occupied us for eighty-one days, was now: at an end, and we should have a little rest. Soon the cultivated fields and the vineyards opened before us, and at 6 o'clock we again entered the town of El Paso del Norte. The first familiar faces we met were those of Captain Jimenes and some of the other officers of the Mexican Commission. From them we learned that Lieutenant Wilkins, the commanding officer of the U.S. troops at El Paso, and Mr. Henry Jacobs, the disburs- ing officer of the U. S. Commission, with a small file of troops, had been out several miles to meet us, and had just returned. They had heard of our approach by a messenger whom I despatched two days before. After some delays in fording the Rio Grande, I reached my old quarters at Magoffinsville, opposite the town, at 10 o'clock, P. mM. August 18th. The remainder of the party were unable to get sical last night, and came in this morning. Of this journey, now concluded, which embraced about eleven hundred miles, about one half was per- formed while the shemtacialsies ranged above 100° during the day, and the other half when there was scarcely a day without a heavy rain. To Lieutenant Whipple, the chief engineer and astronomer in charge TO EL PASO. 379 of the survey of the Gila, and his several assistants, the government and the country cannot award too much praise for its successful accomplishment under such privations, and hardships, together with so many and such serious difficulties. ‘ As regards the health of the party on this journey from California, it was generally good. A few cases of scurvy occurred among the escort; and during the last two weeks before reaching El Paso, many began to be afflicted with rheumatism, and fever and ague, from their constant exposure for thirty-four days to rains. There were also some cases of bowel complaints from time to time ; but all readily yielded to medicine. One Most painful casualty it was our lot to meet with, in the death of the excellent officer and friend who com- manded our escort, Colonel Lewis S. Craig. sty ; ui. By ge ae ie | SIXTH DIVISION. EL-PASO TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. CHAPTER XXXVIL INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. Preparation for completing the Survey of the Southern Boundary of New Mexico— Withdrawal of the military from El Paso—Importance of El Paso as a military post—Its business—Encroachments of the Apaches— Depredations of the Comanches—Suggestions for a better protection of Tue first step now to be taken was to close up all the business of the Commission, and to prepare for joining the surveying parties on the lower Rio Grande. I had advices here from Major Emory, the principal Surveyor of the Commission, advising me of the progress made. ©n that portion of the line. Two parties had been actively engaged in the work; and Major E. believed the Survey would be completed as far as Loredo by % es ron 382 INCIDENTS AT October, and the whole line to the mouth of the river by the 4th of March, 1853, if no unforeseen obstacle was placed in the way. There yet remained to be completed that portion of the line on the parallel of 32° 22’ north latitude, which was to extend west three degrees from the Rio Grande; and thence north to the Gila. Of this line Lieutenant Whipple, while acting as chief astronomer, had surveyed and laid down with great minuteness about one half, and had also determined and marked its western termination. I now directed the same officer to organize a party, and as soon as the train could be got ready to take the field again, to resume and com- plete the survey of the line referred to, in the same manner in which he had begun it. ‘The next step was to prepare for the return of my- self and party, to rejoin Major Emory at Eagle Pass (Fort Duncan). More wagons had to be procured for Lieutenant Whipple’as well as for myself; and all those that had come through from California required more or less repairs. The harness, tents, and camp equl- page too required a thorough overhauling; as the con- tinued wet weather and constant marching had told severely on every thing. I was so fortunate as to find mechanics here, who were at once employed and set — to work. In the mean time the mules had to be brought to a condition fit to undertake as long a jour- ney as that they had just completed. They were, therefore, given rations of corn and sent to the moun- tain near, where there was grama grass in abundance. But they had become so thin, that many weeks would be necessary, under the best care, to bring them up. tase : EL PASO DEL NORTE. 385 I was sorry to find on my arrival, that the military post, which was here when I left the year before, had been broken up and the troops withdrawn, with the exception only of a small detachment under Lieutenant Wilkins, which was quartered at Mr. Magoffin’s rancho, in the same building where I was. To the regret of all the inhabitants, even this small force was withdrawn a few weeks after.* : * The town of El Paso del Norte, so frequently alluded to, ioe ong Mexican side of the river, On the American side there was me atic ? Ment until after the war, and the rich bottoms were but partial se tivated or suffered tq run to waste. | At present, there are chres = Ments here, viz Mr. Coon’s ranch with its adjoining buildings, Mena Was formerly the mnilitary post ; Mr. Stevenson’s ranch, with we OM Stoup of buildings; and Magoffinsyille. This last is now the principal 384 - INCIDENTS AT The Apaches had been more bold than usual dur- ing the spring and summer of 1852; and the whole frontier had suffered from their inroads. Many men had been killed within a few miles of El Paso; and at the astronomical observatory, at Frontera, eight miles distant, a man was pierced with arrows while herding the animals within a few rods of the house. Mr. Magof- fin’s corral had been several times entered, and his mules stolen; and many other citizens there had been sufferers. On two occasions, while I remained at Magof- finsville, the Indians made attempts to run off the animals of the Commission, but were frustrated, by being discovered in time to prevent the stampede. No one could venture alone, with safety, three miles from the settlement, and when I went to take a ride, if it was extended as far as three miles, I felt it neces- sary to be accompanied by several friends. Such was _ the state of the Mexican frontier in 1852. — As the question has been repeatedly asked, What is to be done with the large tribes of Indians on the Mexican frontier? and as there is still a diversity of opinion on the subject, I shall take the present occa- sion to make a few suggestions, based upon what I settlement, and represents the American El Paso. It consists of a large , Square, around which are substantial adobe buildings of a bettter de- scription than usual, embracing some six or eight large stores and ware- houses, well filled with merchandise. This town is admirably situated, and belongs wholly to James W. Magoffin, Esq., an American, long resident in Mexico, whose energy and public spirit will undoubtedly make it the principal place on the frontier. Its position, as astronomr cally determined by Lt. Whipple, is, Latitude North, 31° 46/ 05” 5. Longitude West from Greenwich, 7° 5/24//, Distance due South to the centre of the channel of the Rio Grande, 2,226 feet. EL PASO DEL NORTE. .. Se have learned from personal observation, and my inter- course with the Indians. It is known that we already have along this fron- tier, but chiefly in the State of Texas and the territory of New Mexico, a large military force, embracing full two-thirds of the army, which is supported at an enor- mous expense. Military posts have been established at various points on the Rio Grande, and in the very heart of the Indian country, in Texas, and New- Mexico. Yet two of the largest and most widely spread tribes, the Comanches and the Apaches, are as actively hostile to the Americans and the Mexicans as they were before the country occupied by them, be- came a part of the Union. At no period have the incursions been more frequent, or attended with greater atrocities, than at the present time. The Comanches pass across the Rio Grande into Mexico, in bands of 300 or 400, and penetrate the very heart of Chihuahua ; they have passed into Durango and Zacatecas, and have traversed Coahuila and Nueva Leon. The extent of the depredations and murders committed by them would be appalling, if summed up.* Yet the system flourishes 1n full vigor, notwithstanding the efforts made to sup- Press it on the part of the United States, in compliance with the solemn stipulations of the Treaty with Mexico, The depredations of the Apaches are less serious, only because their numbers are less, and they have a more thinly settled country for their operations. In * Some idea of the extent to which this predatory warfare is carried on, ¢an be formed from the following report of the amount of stock stolen by the Indians in the territory of New Mexico, from the Ist of August, VOL, 11.—25 *. 386 INCIDENTS AT Mexico these are confined to the northern portions of the States of Sonora and Chihuahua. These regions, once inhabited by a peaceful and happy population, are now deserted, and the fertile valleys they tille are reverting to the condition of a wilderness. The numbers of both these tribes have been, in my Opinion, much overrated. That of the Comanches, from the most reliable information I could obtain, falls short of 12,000. Their range is from the Mexican States alluded to, to the Buffalo region, north and east of Santa Fé. In the fall and winter season their home is near the Rio Grande, in the Bolson de Mapimi, a vast basin shut in by high mountains at the west. Here they enjoy uninterrupted possession of a wide extent of country, whence they make their sallies into the heart of Mexico. The Apaches, whose number does not exceed 5000,* extend from the vicinity of the Pecos through the States of Chihuahua, Sonora, 1846, to the Ist of October, 1850, as taken by the Assistant-Marshals of the United States : Counties, Sheep, Mules. | Horses. Horned Cattle, Santa Fé 16,260 570 267 94 Taos 17,080 1,032 1,764 5,600 - Rio Arriba 43,580 1,960. 658 2,382 San Miguel 50,000 7,000 3,000 21,000 pian tans. } 154,915 749 987 1,302 Valencia 171,558 376 372 1,463 ee Total, 453,298 12887 7,050 31,581 * It is no easy matter to form a correct estimate of the number of Indians in a tribe, unless they are actually counted. This is evident from the varying reports of different agents and travellers. In the tables of the Indian population of the United States, in Mr. Schoolcraft’s great EL PASO DEL NORTE. _ 387 and the territory of New Mexico, to the confines of the Colorado of the West. They are less nomadic in their habits than the Comanches, and have districts in which their families permanently reside. This tribe, from the time they are first mentioned by Father Kino, in the year 1694, have been a nation of robbers. Their hand is against every other tribe, and that of all others against them. It was they who drove out the peaceable people and semi-civilized tribes from the Gila, and destroyed the builders of the ancient edifices we have spoken of. Every account we have represents them as a treacherous and blood- thirsty people, living by plunder alone. They have made repeated treaties with the States of Sonora and Chihuahua, only to be broken on the first favorable Opportunity ; and the treaties recently made with the United States have been as little regarded. I proposed to the principal chiefs that they should abandon cattle-stealing, and cultivate the ground; telling them if they would do so, the U. 8. government would instruct and protect them, giving them blankets and clothing besides. The old chiefs said they could hot adopt this new fashion, although the boys and work, the Comanches are variously set down, from the year 1846 to 1850, at from 12,000 to 20,000. The Apaches embrace 50 many bands, and are so widely scattered, that it is extremely difficult to enumerate them. Mr. Schoolcraft, from the latest authoriti , puts the Apache b ; ee at 3500 in New Mexico at 6000, and in the unexplored parts north of the Gila at 2000, making altogether 11,500; which I think tog tig> It is unusual to find 200 of them together; and throughout the States Sonora and Chihuahua, I heard of the same chiefs that we met = With whom we kept up so long an intercourse at the Copper Mines, and Who were, of course, accompanied by the same bands. © 388 INCIDENTS AT young men might do so. They said they would not rob or murder the Americans, but could not be brought to promise the same with regard to the Mexicans. What, then, is absolutely necessary, for the sake of these Indians themselves as well as of our frontier population, is to convince them of the overwhelming superiority of force on our side; and to show them that, if they wish to escape utter extermination, they must lay aside their predatory habits, and learn to live by the labor of their own hands. To effect this, a change should be made in the system pursued at the frontier posts. Soldiers should not go into quarters, and then quietly remain devoting themselves to agriculture. Better would it be for the government to pay double the price it now does for its wheat and corn, than to employ the soldiers im cultivating it; for the consequence of the present system is, that by their attending to the fields, they become unfitted for and neglect their proper duty as soldiers. I would suggest, that with the opening of the _ spring, the soldiers should leave their quarters, and be kept moving from one point to another. Let them be a few days in a mountain pass, next at some oasis in the desert whither the savage must resort to satisfy his parching thirst, and again in some of those beautiful valleys covered with luxuriant grass, which are his resort after his predatory excursions, that he may recruit his animals. This active life would be much more agreeable and healthy for the men than the inactivity of a garrison, and would tend more to overawe and’subdue the Indians. PEP eee BE eee ina ae i i en Si EL PASO DEL NORTE. ‘ 389 A difficulty arises when the Indians, on being pursued, take refuge in Mexico, where our troops cannot follow them. Some arrangement should be entered into by which small bodies of U. S. soldiers may be permitted, on such occasions, to enter Mexican territory within prescribed limits. This plan would be agreeable to the Mexican authorities, as they informed me. I have no doubt that much might yet be accom- plished by sending suitable agents among the Indians; men who are at heart philanthropists, and who will ear- nestly engage in the work of ameliorating their condi- tion. Much good could be done, too, by sending mechanics among them, particularly carpenters and blacksmiths, also a supply of implements of husbandry. Most of the tribes beyond the Rio Grande are more or less agriculturists; and an attempt should be made to bring the wild Apaches and Comanches into the same condition. The pursuit most immediately adapted to their nature and habits would be the raising of cattle and mules; a business which they could most profit- ably pursue, and which they fully understand already. € rising generation could be advanced a step bce and taught the first principles of agricul- ure, A A plan has been proposed in California to drive all the tribes of that country to New Mexico. This is Wrong; and the project ought not, for a moment, to be entertained. As a writer on the subject remarks, it would be “ turning New Mexico into an area for the mutual extermination of the Indians, or else driv- 'N8 @ portion of them from their old homes to join the 390 INCIDENTS AT predatory bands which are now desolating that coun- try. The policy of concentration is a pernicious one, and can have but one result: it will stimulate their fondness for war, and render necessary an armed and an annihilating protection to our citizens. Besides this, there is but little game in that country, and the arable lands could not support such numbers as would be brought into it if the plan should be carried out. ‘ The only excursion I was able to make, while waiting for the train to be got ready, was to Fort Fillmore. Towards the close of September, Colonel Langberg of the Mexican army, and military inspector of the frontier, proposed to me to visit Colonel Miles, commanding at that Fort; I gladly took advantage of the opportunity. On the day appointed I took my carriage, and, accompanied by Colonel Langberg, Dr. Webb, Mr. H. Jacobs, and ten dragoons, set off for Fort Fillmore, about 45 miles distant from El Paso; which we reach- ed at sunset, and where we were politely received by Colonel Miles and the officers with him. This Fort was established in 1851, when the military posts at Dofia Ana and El Paso were aban- doned; as it was thought that its position was better than either of those, and that it would be sufficient for this frontier. It contained at the time of our visit about two hundred soldiers, infantry and dragoons, under the command of Colonel Miles of the 8d Infantry. It occupied a commanding position above the bottom-lands; whence the valley of the Rio Grande can be seen for many miles. Nearly opposite is the town of Mesilla: and extending above and ‘ EL PASO DEL NORTE. 391 below it, is that portion of the bottom-lands known as the ‘‘ Mesilla Valley,” * which is now occupying the public attention, as connected with the boundary dis- * Mesilla is the derivative of the Spanish mesa, table; and, as here applied, means a small plateau, or table-land, to distinguish it from the great table-land which extends for many hundred miles on both sides of the Rio Grande, and which is not susceptible of cultivation. It was without an inhabitant until the year 1850. At the close of the war with Mexico, the majority of the inhabitants of Dofia Ana determined to leave that place, in consequence of the encroachments of the Americans, who endeavoured to despoil them of their property. Whether the Mexican occupants of the town and lands adjacent were the lawful owners or not, it is needless to edi as is sufficient to say that they had long been in undistarbed With this resolution, a spot was selected on the opposite or western side of the river, eight or ten miles below Dofia Ana, which, it was believed, would be within the limits of Mexico. In the month of May, $8K0, this people established themselves there, and named: the place Mesilla.” To increase the colony, the government of Mexico offered to give lands to other actual settlers; which offer induced large numbers of dissatisfied Mexicans living in New Mexico and in the small settlements along the Rio Grande, in Texas, to remove thither. More than half the population of Dofia Ana removed to Mesilla within & Year, When the boundary line was agreed upon, in December, 1850, and it became certain that La Mesilla was south of it, the fears they had begun to entertain were removed, and a day was set apart for: public re- joicing, After this, the population increased much on account of the inducements offered; and in October, 1852, the Prefect of El aed * 392 INCIDENTS AT pute. The town of Cruces is abaut three, and Dofia Ana about eleven miles further up the valley. The bottom- lands are exceedingly fertile on both banks of the river; and J am not aware that they are better situ- ated or more productive on one bank than on the other. The barracks at Fort Fillmore are as yet quite rude, being mere jackals, that is, built of upright sticks filled in with mud. They were hastily put up; but it is the intention of Colonel Miles to have more substantial buildings of adobe erected forthwith. There is no better material in this country for buildings than this. I took the opportunity while at Fort Fillmore to visit a silver mine, which had been discovered a few months previous, and which was now being worked by its owner, Hugh Stevenson, Esq., of El Paso. The mine is situated in the Organ Mountains, about eighteen miles east of the Fort; and as these mountains are the - haunts of the ‘Moachek. Colonel Miles kindly furnished us with an escort of ten dragoons, commanded by Major Steen, an officer familiar with this region, and expe- rienced in Indian campaigns. By taking an early start we reached the nearest point in the mountains, about twelve miles distant, before 10 o'clock, having traversed a desert plain with a gradual ascent the whole way. On reaching a defile which leads across the ridge. Major Steen and Dr. Webb took a portion of the dragoons and went to the time some mischievous persons put the idea into their heads of saving their property by denying the jurisdiction of Mexico ; and this is doubt- less the Eateeledion: Cf the: eaten aay hey: doula desire to be annexed to the United States, : EL PASO DEL NORTE. es O98 mine, which was about five miles farther to the north, while I remained with the rest to examine the defile. I then took my rifle, and walked a couple of miles through it and the deep gorges which indent the ridge. In this ramble I passed a beautiful little stream, which, rising far within the defile, wound its way along through 394 INCIDENTS AT the dragoons in pursuit of a deer, we saw fresh Indian tracks; and not knowing but an arrow or a lance might be thrown at us from behind some rock or bush, we thought it best to return. The ‘Sierra de los Organos,” or Organ Mountains, are so named from their pinnacled summits and sides, which resemble the pipes of an organ. They are of a light gray granite, and rise to the height of 3000 feet above the river. The range runs north and south, and joins the El Paso Mountains, not far from the town of that name. The defiles are filled with large pines, and the more open valley, with live-oaks. Pine timber is here cut and drawn by mules to where it can be reached with wagons. From the place where we halted and lunched, I took a sketch of these mountains and of the defile through which I had passed. A small stream flowed near us, marked by a line of fine large oaks. Midway between this spot and the mountains rises a bold mass of white granite. In the afternoon Major Steen and Dr. Webb returned from the silver mine, bringing specimens of the ore. We then harnessed and saddled up for our return to the Fort, which we reached at nine o'clock. We passed a few days very agreeably at Fort Fill- more, partaking of the hospitalities of Colonel Miles and his officers. This visit, too, was rendered doubly agreeable, by the society of four American ladies, be- longing to the families of the officers, who had had the courage to accompany the army on its toilsome march of three months across the plains. These were the only American ladies I had met between San Antonio el eee FEET ee toe te One RR Se A ae SE EEE Ne ny oe a ER NE yee arcane ee ee ee i t -EL PASO DEL NORTE. 395 and the Pacific coast, and were, I believe, the only ones on this portion of the frontier. On our return we madea noon halt on the banks of the river, near the spot where the gallant Doniphan won his first laurels, the battle-field of Bracito. Al- though this place is laid down on the maps, there is no- town nor even a single habitation to mark the spot. The battle was fought on an open plain, the very last place one would expect the Mexicans to choose for meeting an invading army, unless confident, as it ap- pears they were, of overwhelming them at once. Had the Mexicans taken a stand in the mountain pass, they might have given some trouble; but even then they could only have retarded a little the progress of the con- querors, * * I quote from Colonel Doniphan’s despatch a brief account of this - affair: On the 23d of March, we commenced our march from Dofia Ana; and on the 25th, our advance of 500 men had halted for the pur- pose of camping, about three o’clock. Our men were engaged in getting wood and water, when our advanced guard informed us the enemy was rapidly advancing at a short distance. The rear, under Colonel Jackson, Was several miles behind; the rally was immediately sounded, and our forces formed in open order on foot as skirmishers. The enemy halted at half a mile, and formed in line of battle. Before we had fully formed, they Sent a lieutenant near our lines with a black flag, with a demand that the commander of our forces should go to their lines and confer with their commander; declaring, at the same time, unless it was complied With, they would charge and take him, and neither ask nor give quarter. The reply was more abrupt than decorous— To charge, and be d—d.’ At the return of the black flag, the enemy commenced his charge, and pened a fire on us from right to left, at about 400 yards. Our forces Were ordered to receive their fire without returning it, until it could Prove effective. Three rounds were fired by the whole line, before they had advanced within rifle shot. Ithen ordered their fire to be returned. i 396 INCIDENTS AT It had been my intention, when leaving El Paso, to take the San Antonio road as far as the Leona station, about six hundred miles, and there turn off to Eagle Pass, where I expected to meet Major Emory ; and for this journey all my arrangements were made. The ~ military escort was alone wanting, and this was one object of my visit to Fort Fillmore, where a portion of the company originally detailed for the purpose were waiting orders. Much to my disappointment I _ found there but twenty-four effective men belonging to the company, a number barely sufficient for an escort for Lieutenant Whipple. In this position, I was at a loss what course to take, or how to get out of the country. Every small party coming through. from San Antonio had been attacked by the Comanches; and accounts had reached El Paso that bands of three hundred warriors had been seen. At no time had there been so much alarm felt; and I was advised, by the army officers and others, who knew the state of the country, not to attempt the jour ney, with so small a party as. mine, without an escort. The officers and men of the Commission, myself includ- ed, had performed guard duty from the Pimo villages to El Paso ; and we did not feel disposed to do it again on the long march to Eagle Pass. At this juncture was done from right to left, along the whole line simultaneously, which completely checked their advance, and threw them into great disorder. A charge was now made, when the enemy fled to the mountains con- tiguous. The force of the enemy was 1220, of which 537 were caval- ty. * * * The loss of the enemy was 43 killed, and 150 reported at El Paso to be wounded. Our loss was none killed—7 wounded ; since recovered.” — Tk a aaa EL PASO DEL NORTE. 397 . Colonel Langberg kindly tendered me an escort of Mexican soldiers, in case I would take the route by | the city of Chihuahua, and thence through the States of Durango, Coahuila, Nueva Leon, and Tamaulipas, to such point as I wished to reach on the Lower Rio Grande. This offer, after due consideration, I accept- ed, and advised Major Emory of my decision, request- ing him to meet me at a point lower down the river than Eagle Pass, which would probably be Comargo. About this time the mail party from San Antonio arrived, They had been attacked and surrounded by a large body of Indians; but had kept their assailants at bay for several days, by entrenching themselves behind some rocks. This party consisted of men cele- brated as Indian fighters, and was commanded by Mr. Wallace, one of the most intrepid and experienced men on the frontier. Every Indian who exposed him- self was instantly brought down by a shot from the unerring rifle, until they were actually driven from the field. Mr. Wallace returned to San Antonio, procured 4 new outfit, and strengthened his party ; he then set. out again, and came through with the mail in safety. During my stay here, one of those events took place which are not unusual on the Mexican frontier, and Which sometimes produce a rupture between the Mexi- an government and its people. itis known that the duty of sixty per cent. imposed by Mexico on many articles of merchandise, amounts to ‘prohibition. Yet, owing to the laxity of the custom- house officials, the law has been evaded, and goods regularly admitted at a mere nominal rate. Each col- lector knows that if he exacts the legal duty, either the 398 INCIDENTS AT merchandise will be smuggled in, or some brother-col- lector, less conscientious and more anxious to pocket the fees, will be ready to compound for a smaller sum. It accordingly became the practice to admit trains of merchandise for the interior of Mexico by paying five hundred dollars on each wagon load. This free and easy way of doing business had certainly the advantage of © saving clerk hire, as well as removing the necessity of examining invoices, and all contention as to the cost or value of goods. A leading merchant of the city of Chihuahua, who for some reason had become inimical to the govern- ment, had a train of some sixty or seventy wagons and carts filled with goods, on its way from San Antonio to that city, by the way of the Presidio del Norte. The authorities, being informed of the approach of the train, were determined that it should not pass without a thorough examination and payment of the full duties; to insure which, a military force was sent to the cross- ing place. In consequence of this unlooked-for obsta- cle, the whole train came up to El Paso, about two hun- dred miles out of its way, for the purpose of entering here; but the military force, which was under the command of Colonel Langberg, was ordered hither also, to prevent the entry of the goods except at the full duty. The collector of El Paso was disposed to pass the goods after the usual convenient fashion, in which he was supported by the merchants and municipal authorities of the place; while Colonel Langberg, act- ing under orders from the capital, was determined that they should not, and declared his intention to arrest and imprison the collector, Don Alejo Garcia Condé, EL PASO DEL NORTE. 399 if he did not strictly enforce the legal duties. The collector armed himself and his party, and the train prepared to cross and fight their way through. As might be supposed, there was great excitement, and it was feared blood would be shed; but the affair passed off quietly. The train crossed the river, each teamster armed with a whip and rifle; and to avoid a conflict, Colonel Langberg sent an armed guard with the train to Chihuahua, which was followed by the collector, to settle the difficulty there. On the Ist of October, Lieutenant Whipple took his departure, to complete the survey of the line form- ing the southern boundary of New Mexico, before referred to. Lieut. A. W. Wurerie, Corps Top. Eng., Astronomer in Command. Hucu CAMPBELL, irst Assistant. Frank Wueaton, Assistant and Topographer. Wituam Wuire, Jr. Assistant. Gzorce G. Garner, Do. These, with sixteen men as instrument carriers, mechan- ics, laborers, teamsters, servants, arrieros, etc., made . the party. He had also a military escort of twenty-four men. They were all mounted, save the soldiers; while both wagons and pack-mules furnished the necessary transportation. My own party, then about to leave, comprised,— Dr. Tomas H. Wess, - Sec. of the Joint Commission and Surgeon. Henry Jacons, Assistant Secretary and Disbursing Agent. Grorce Turner, Acting Quarter-Master and Commissary, a otanist. Heyry ©. Prarr, Draughtsman and Artist. 400 INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. The following gentlemen, belonging to the engineer corps, accompanied me, to join Major Emory and enter upon their duties on the lower Rio Grande. CHARLES oem, Principal Assistant Surveyor. Matcoim Sea Do. Hewry C. Force Do. Do. Jouy J. Pratt, of Lieut, Whipple’s party, returning on account of ill health. Ws. Fereusoy, Carpenter. Six teamsters, one carriage driver, and six men as servants, cooks, laborers, and hérdenien EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA. A401 CHAPTER XXXVIIL EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA. Departure from El Paso—Accident at the start—Farewell to friends—San Pefiol—E] Sanz—Rio Sacramento—Battle field—Notice of the battle— Arrival at Chihuahua. October 6th. All being in readiness to start, the train drew up in front of Mr. Magoffin’s store-house, to _ take in a supply of corn. While standing here, the mules, which had not been in harness for six weeks or more, became uneasy, and, turning suddenly round, broke off two of the wagon tongues; which compelled us to wait another day for repairs. | : 4 There is no grass along the river after leaving Isleta. This made it necessary to send off a wagon load of corn, to be delivered to us about eighty miles ed. In addition to this, each team carried a few VOL. 0.26 402 EL PASO October Tth. The broken tongues being replaced, the train moved off in the afternoon, in charge of Mr. George Thurber, intending to go as far as Isleta, 12 miles distant. October 8th. The day had now arrived when | was to take leave of my friends at El Paso. Friends at home, where we have numbers, are not always valued as they should be; but in a country like this, on the borders of civilization, one knows how to appre- ciate them. I had now been here seven weeks, and during the winter of 1850-51, five months, while wait- ing the arrival of the chief astronomer. With many gentlemen here, particularly J. W. Magoffin, Esq., I had transacted business to a large extent, and in a manner which to me, as an agent of the government, was highly satisfactory. To them I take this occasion to express my sincere thanks for the promptness with which they fulfilled my orders, often to their own inconvenience, and for their uniform readiness in accept- ing my drafts upon the government, when a contrary course would have been detrimental to the public ser- vice, and would have subjected me personally to serious embarrassments. . On the occasion of our departure, Mr. Magoffin ‘invited a number of gentlemen to partake of a cold collation, which proved to be one that would have done credit to the caterer of a metropolitan hotel. Although it is difficult at times to procure a piece of fresh meat at El Paso, the delicacies prepared in New York and Paris for foreign markets can always be found here in abundance, though at a high cost. I left at one o’clock, and in the evening joined the TO CHIHUAHUA. 403 train at San Eleazario,* where I passed my first night in camp. October 9th. The reloading of some of the wagons detained us here several hours, and my troubles with the men began. My cook took the opportunity to get drunk during the night, and for his bad conduct'was put in the calaboose. By the aid of my friends here I was enabled to find a good substitute, and we soon after took up our march. The train consisted of. my travelling carriage, a very convenient vehicle, which Was to form my sleeping-place during the journey; the small wagon I brought from California, in which Dr. Webb rode; and six other wagons containing our Provisions, baggage, tents, camp equipage, instruments, etc. All the party were mounted on horses or mules, and well armed ; and for achange I had also provided myself with a riding mule. We got off at noon and made fourteen miles, encamping near a pool of water. Our route, most of the way, was along thé Rio Grande, °ver a rich bottom, of which only a small portion was under cultivation. October 10th. I rode on in advance with several Others to examine the crossing, as it was necessary to ford the Rio Grande here. To my surprise I found the banks very precipitous ; and as the river was here uch contracted, it was proportionably deep and rapid. With considerable difficulty and some risk I crossed in mY carriage ; and then, seeing the danger that would _* This name is also spelt San Elceario, which is, I believe, the *nginal and correct mode. But asit is invariably pronounced Eleazario, and so written, by the people, I have adopted that orthography. 404 EL PASO attend the wagons, both in descending and ascending the steep banks, as well as in crossing the river, I hired a Mexican to take a note back to Mr. Thurber, who was with the train, advising him to send men for- ward with spades and pickaxes, to cut down the banks before the wagons should attempt to pass. ‘I then rode on to Guadalupe, three miles ahead, for the purpose of procuring sheep, as well as to notify fhe Mexican escort, who were to join us here, of the approach of the train. Colonel Langberg had promised me ten men, if I could wait a few days for their return from Chihuahua ; but this I could not do, and was therefore obliged to take up with five, as but few now remained in the garrison. These men soon reported themselves. After procuring the sheep, and while we were quietly waiting for the train to come up, a messenger - arrived with the disagreeable news that the ambulance which contained the personal baggage of Dr. Webb, Mr. Jacobs, and myself, had been upset in crossing the river, and that every thing had been immersed in the water. I hastened back to the scene of the disaster, and found things worse than I had expected. Besides our baggage, a trunk filled with papers, maps, My account books, and the official records of the Joint, Commission, had been wet. Some choice stationery was utterly ruined. We at once set to work, and spread every thing out on the patches of grass that were near and on the branches of trees; but although the sun was hot, there was not sufficient time to dry all before night. October 11th. The forenoon was spent in drying our effects and packing them away again. At noon the TO CHIHUAHUA, . 405 animals were again hitched up, and we moved off once more, passing through Guadalupe, and stopped at asmall lagoon, three miles beyond, where we encamped. We could have travelled a couple of-hours longer, but were told there was no water within fifteen miles, which we could not make before dark, as a portion of the road was very sandy. Guadalupe is a miserable looking village. It was founded in the year 1850, as a military colony, at a time when the Mexican government offered induce- ments to settlers to take up lands. Its population con- — sists chiefly of persons from New Mexico, who preferred Mexican to American rule. Its houses are all built of upright sticks, the interstices filled with mud. There was but one shop in the place, and no mechanic except a blacksmith. There was nothing that. indicated pros- perity; and the contrast between this village and a new American settlement, was most striking. We looked about for vegetables in vain: a few water- melons were all the place afforded. October 12th. Last night was very cold, so much so that three or four blankets were necessary. During the day the heat is quite oppressive, so that the thinnest clothing is required; but no sooner does the sun sink below the horizon, than the temperature falls to a degree that compels one to change one’s garments and Wrap up well in blankets. The mornings are equally cold, until the sun has been up at least three hours. By ten or eleven thick clothing is laid aside. _ We left the valley of the Rio Grande to-day, and ascended the table-land, which was thinly covered With chapporal without grass. The road was sandy ; 406 EL PASO yet we made fifteen miles, and encamped at Cantarecto, where there is a spring of good water. : - October 13th. Our course was to-day south-west towards the direct route from El Paso to Chihuahua ; and with the exception of a few places, the road was good. Mezquit grass occurred at intervals sufficient for grazing. No trees were seen, and scarcely any shrubbery; so that our cooks with difficulty procured enough to prepare our food. We made twenty-five miles (at least so it was called by the Mexicans), and encamped at Charco de Grado. The Mexican mode of measurement is very uncertain, unless practised by engineers. The water here is found in small pools, supplied by springs; but so meagre is the supply, that I doubt whether it can be depended.upon in the dry season. , _ October 14th. Our course continued the same as yesterday, over a broad plain, unlimited by mountains, which showed themselves only at intervals of from ten to twenty miles in short ridges, their summits present- ing a jagged and fantastic appearance. Turrets and cupolas, huge towers and castles, alternately were seen. These mountains appeared to be destitute of vegetation, except the grama grass, which grows on the debris from the base to the point where the bare rocks arise. Fifteen miles brought us to the Qjo de Lucero (Venus’s Spring), which furnishes but a small supply of water. We did not stop here, but pushed on to the Laguna de los Patos (Duck Lake), six miles further, and encamped near a spot where a stream of clear and delicious water crosses the road. This rivulet comes from a spring near by, and empties into a small TO CHIHUAHUA. 407 pond containing a couple of acres, in which many ducks were seen. Two miles before encamping, we entered the direct road from El Paso to Chihuahua. This road crosses the Medanos or Sand-hills, which We passed on our road from Correlitos to El Paso; and such were the difficulties then presented, that I determined not to attempt it again with wagons. Our route by Gua- dalupe required two days longer than if we had crossed the Sand-hills; but it was better to lose two days than to disable or break down our animals at th outset of a long journey. The Laguna de los Patos is the outlet of the river Carmen; and is four or five miles across, varying in extent according to the rainy season. The body of water on our right was doubtless the effect of the late heavy rains; while that on the left, which is properly the laguna, is permanent. A mile before reaching the lake is a smail hill some twenty feet high, on the top of which is a warm spring. In the plain on our right, which was more or less covered with water, at a distance of eight or ten miles, I had noticed during the day what’ I supposed to be clouds of dust or whirlwinds; but I afterwards learned from our Mexicans that it was steam from hot springs. The steam sometimes issued forth in jets, rising from fifty to one hundred feet high, and seemed to extend along the plain for a mile or more. I was desirous to examine these springs; but the intervening space was so much overflowed, that it was not considered safe to do so. I could obtain from the arrieros no information about them. A number of ducks were shot near our camp. 408 . EL Paso October 15th. On leaving this morning, we struck at once into the plain, which, as far as the eye could reach, was covered with water, appearing like a vast lake. We could trace the road by the tall grass and bushes, on which the water was from fifteen to eight- een inches deep. The ground being soft, our wagons sank deeply into it; and it was with the greatest difficulty that our animals could drag them through. A space of a few hundred yards would have been bad enough through such a depth of mire and water; but a steady tug of three or four miles was a very serious matter. Now and then the wagons would plunge into a deep hole, from which it was difficult to extricate them. In one of these the Doctor's carretella sank so suddenly, and to such a depth, that the king-bolt broke, and the fore wheels separated from it. For- tunately a small portion remained, which was kept in its place by straps. This was almost as bad as the deep sand, and we were obliged to make frequent stops to let the animals rest. : We at length reached dry ground, and the wagons succeeded in getting out, except one, the heavy “ ark,” which mired so deeply that the six mules could not extricate it. We doubled the team; but the mules being unmanageable in the mire and water, the tongue was snapped off. An hour or more was spent in splicing the tongue, when the twelve mules were again hitched on. When all was in readiness for another effort, men were placed with whips at each span of mules : at a given signal, the whips were simultaneously laid on; whoops and yells, mingled with a shower of oaths, followed, and the frightened animals made a united TO CHIHUAHUA. 409 spring. The animals cleared themselves, breaking every chain, and leaving the ark where it was. ‘Find- ing it impossible to extricate it with its contents, it was unloaded, and the twelve mules again attached, when another and united effort brought it to dry land. This was not effected until the men had been knee- deep in mud and water for four hours. While this was going on we amused ourselves with collecting insects, reptiles, and other objects in natural _ history, of which quite a number were obtained. At _ one o'clock we’again moved off, over a superb road, and in twelve miles reached Carrizal (country of reed grass), and encamped near an old acequia half a mile from the town, the water in which was scarcely fit for the mules to drink. I did not wish to go to the town, a8 experience had taught me that it was best to avoid the Mexican settlements. We had not been in one _* where the arrieros or teamsters did not get into a row, or return to camp in a state of drunkenness. Mr. Thurber rode to the town, and purchased a supply of corn sufficient to take us to Chihuahua, together with some goats, as sheep were not to be had. Carrizal is an old dilapidated presidio, and now nearly depopulated ; more than half the houses being tenantless. The lands about it are rendered fertile by ligation, and in former years were cultivated. It derived some advantage too from passing travellers and caravans, as it is the only town between El Paso and Chihuahua. The inhabitants being completely at the mercy of the Apaches, they barely gain an exist- _ “tee; for these inveterate robbers boldly enter the q Place by day and help themselves to what they want; 410 EL PASO whether it be corn, a fat mule, or an ox. The people are too few to make any defence, and quietly submit to be plundered. At the last visit of the marauders, they entered every house, and each provided himself with a blanket, from the shoulders or beds of the inmates. October 16th. Our route continued over the same broad and boundless plain we had been traversing since we first ascended the plateau from the Rio Grande. Mountains were seen only at a great dis- tance, while nearer at hand a few low hills rose up here and there. Twelve miles brought us to Qjo Caliente (Warm Spring). Although we had made but a short day’s march, it was thought best to stop here; as there lay before us a jornada of fifty miles without water, which it would require two full days to accomplish. Ojo Caliente is a spring which rises from the plain about one hundred and fifty yards from the base of a rocky hill. Its temperature is nearly the same as that of the atmosphere. A small pool about one hundred and twenty feet in circuit, and from three to four deep, is here formed, with asandy bottom, from which warm water bubbles up in many places; this water has an outlet through a small creek into the river Carmen, in which creek some fish were taken and preserved for specimens. This basin afforded an excellent opportunity for a bath, and the whole party took advantage of it. _ A-well built stone wall, about a yard in thickness, and laid in cement, is built across the basin, apparently for the purpose of raising the water. A portion of this wall is now broken away.. I imagine it to be the work of the Spaniards, who, at some former period, have TO CHIHUAHUA. All resorted hither for the benefit of the water. No traces of buildings could be found near the pool; yet there may be in the plain near. It isnow, and doubtless has long been the resort of Indians, as there are many mor- tars in the adjacent rocks. Along one side of the hill there appeared to be a rude wall; and on the summit were circles and heaps of stones, which bore the traces of fire. From here a most extensive view was pre- sented, on three sides unobstructed by mountains. October 17th. By seven o'clock, a. m., we had Tesumed our journey over an excellent natural road, equal to the best turnpike. About a mile from camp we crossed the Rio Carmen, a considerable stream, — although dry during the summer, when the water is most wanted. Our course was due south ; and during the thirty-five miles made to-day, not a hill, gully, or Tavine, was passed. There was a gradual ascent for at least twenty miles, with no mountains in sight. A few rounded hills were seen at long intervals; and through the openings in these, the plain seemed to extend for sixty or eighty miles. It was covered with @ luxuriant growth of grass, with scarcely a bush as large as one’s finger. In order to advance as far as Possible, we kept on till dark, and encamped without Water. A few little twigs gathered as we came along, Was all the fuel we could procure. : October 18th. Moved from camp a little after seven _ Oclock. The plain was open, except on our right, Where, at a distance of a mile, ran a Ifigh range of hills. On starting, I rode on my mule a short distance ahead, accompanied by Messrs. Radziminski, Pratt, ton, Foree, and Dr. Webb. Soon after we saw the 412 EL PASO train start; whereupon we held in our animals, that it might the sooner overtake us. About a mile from. camp we passed a small arroyo, or ravine, pretty well filled with bushes. This arroyo was no sooner passed by the foremost wagon in the train, than we were startled by the most terrific yells and shouting ; and on turning our heads, to our horror we saw a band of Indians issuing from the arroyo we had passed, and charging upon the train. We immediately turned about, put spurs to our animals, and rode back with all speed towards the train. The savages, who numbered between thirty and forty (as stated to me by those in the rear), were rushing at full speed with their lances poised, screaming and yelling, endeavoring to break the line and stampede the mules, as they crossed from one side to the other. Others followed, discharging their arrows at the teamsters as they passed ; but the teamsters remained each by his team, keeping the mules in their places, and closing up the line: At the same time they kept the enemy at bay by levelling their pistols at them. These men had the presence of mind to keep their seats in the saddle and to hold their fire, which the savages wanted to draw. Had they fired and missed their mark (and the chances were ten to one against their hitting), they would have been ‘pierced by a lance or an arrow the next moment. The men who were riding by the side of the wagons sprang to the aid of the teamsters, and held the leading miles, which kept them in their places. . Failing in their attempt to frighten the mules and - throw the train into disorder, the Indians dashed on towards the rear, and made a furious charge 0D the . re s ; ‘olF I—~ALUVd GNV NIVUL AL ONIMOVLLY SNVIGNI SHOVAV ¥ € mash) LOS ne nee ee =~ ~ = ae . a — =Red SS == Bo ie os =i a, ay. : = ~= SNA = ON ~ ~ . ma, SS > f Sr N Me SS eee ET seo ~ . s ~= eS es p :. _ TO CHIHUAHUA. 413 _ party there who were driving the spare mules and _ horses. Two Mexicans, herdsmen, were unhorsed by the charge; and a third, being wounded, fell from his animal. He, however, held on to his bridle, when an Indian rushed at him and pierced him to the heart with his lance. The momentary pause of this man made hima good mark for the rifle, and sealed his fate. Several were discharged at once, which brought the fellow to the ground. His companions seeing him fall, ran to his rescue, raised him up, and threw his bleed- ing body across a mule ridden by another Indian, when they rode off at full speed. The firing now became general; but the constant f . Motion of the enemy, enabled them to escape. The five Mexican soldiers, who were on foot, stood up to the fight manfully, and were in the thickest of it. They did much, too, towards saving the last wagon, which had got separated, and was one hundred and fifty yards in the rear. The driver of this team, when he saw the Indians between him and the rest of the train, jumped from his mule, and, bringing the leaders around, fastened their heads to the wagon. He then took out his rifle and stood on the defensive, levelling it at each Indian as he approached, and thus keeping them at bay. ; The Indians next made for Mr. Thurber, who was ~ still further in the rear, and at the moment engaged in putting some plants into his portfolio. They dashed at him with their lances, and he had barely time to Seize his revolver, with which he kept them off. Our men were now close at the enemies’ heels; so that, find- ~ Ing themselves in rather a tight place, they made for the 414 EL PASO adjoining hills, pursued by six or eight of our party. The fleetness of their horses and their knowledge of the ground, gave them the advantage; so that after a pur- suit of a mile or two, we gave up the chase, fearing the train might encounter a larger body of Indians in ambush, for they scattered in all directions, and con- cealed themselves among the rocks or ravines of the hills. The spare animals were all stampeded and lost. They became frightened at the first charge, and, not being fastened, were rushing at the top of their speed over the plain, driven by a portion of the enemy, before we who were in advance could reach them. We lost ten mules and a valuable horse—and secured the horse, saddle, and arms of the Indian that was shot. Two of the wagons were pierced with bullets, and several arrows were found sticking in the wagons near the teamsters. We dug a grave by the side of the road, and de- posited in it the body of the unfortunate Mexican who was killed. This being done, we hastened away from the sad scene, the first and only occurrence of the kind that had befallen the Commission since it entered the field, now more than two years. We had proceeded but a few hundred yards when we noticed several heaps of stones, some of them sur- mounted by small crosses, to mark the spots where murders had been committed but a short time before, as appeared by their freshness, Fragments of clothing also lay around, showing that a severe contest had taken place. Fearing that the Indians might rally in larger. numbers and renew the attack, two soldiers TO CHIHUAHUA. 415 were sent ahead, while the others kept at a distance on the right and left, to give us early notice of the ap- proach of danger. Eight or ten miles brought us to a point opposite the Qjo de Callego (Spring of the Mountain Pass), a ravine in the mountain on our left, where there was a fine spring in a thick grove of cotton-woods. It seemed a likely place for Indians to conceal themselves in, and, with an enemy at our heels, we had no desire to stop there. We therefore filled our water kegs from a pool near at hand, without entering the ravine. A - couple of miles further on, we passed the Qjo de Calle- cito, marked by a few cotton-woods on the mountain side. Soon after this, we met a body of about twenty Mexican soldiers in charge of a lieutenant from Chihua- hua, bound for El Paso. They were the men who had escorted the merchant train from El Paso, to which I have before alluded. From them we learned that Ar- mijo’s train of empty wagons, which left that place the day before us by way of the Sand-hills, had been attacked by the Apaches near the place of our encoun- ter with them, and had lost six men and thirty mules, Continuing our march until dark, in order to get as far as possible from the scene of the morning, we “neamped on the open plain, making a corral of the Wagons and tents, and bringing all into as compact a ‘pace as possible. The animals were either tied up Close to the wagons or staked within the inclosure, and the guard doubled for the night. During the day’s journey, which did not exceed eighteen miles, mountains were near us on the left. 416 . EL PAso The grassy plain continued without bushes; so that we were obliged to gather up dried dung for fuel. October 19th. Before daylight the camp was called, and every man was perambulating the corral and the vicinity with his arms in hand; for it is well known that these savages generally take the dawn of day to surprise unconscious travellers. Sentinels were sent out to reconnoitre, and eight men to guard the mules while grazing. _ At six o’clock, we moved again over an excellent road as before, the grass luxuriant as far as the eye could reach. Antelopes and deer were seen in herds bounding over the plain, sometimes coming within gun-shot of us. A few shots were fired without suc- cess, the open plain preventing our hunters from get- ting as near as they wished. Fifteen miles brought us to the Laguna de Encinillas (Lake of Evergreen Oaks), which lay on our right, stretching far off into the plain in a southerly direction. It is said to be about fifteen miles long and three wide, varying ac- cording to the season and the rains. This lake, like all others on the high table, while it receives much water, has no outlet. Forming the basin of a vast plain, its waters rise with the rains, and in the dry season are much lessened, and sometimes nearly dry. It is only remarkable, considering the porosity of the soil, and the rapid evaporation from the dryness of the atmosphere, that the whole does not. disappear before the return of the periodical rains, As the water was said by our Mexicans to be brackish, we supplied our- selves from a spring about a hundred yards from its shore. After the camp was arranged, I took my gu? TO CHIHUAHUA. 417 and went to the lake. On tasting the water, to my surprise I found it perfectly sweet, in fact better than that in the spring. It is therefore probable that after the rainy season the lake so fills up that its brackish- ness is overcome. Its shores, as well as the adjoining plain, are covered with what the Mexicans call teques- quite, or alkaline salt in a state of efflorescence. Brant, ducks, and plover abound in its waters, some few of which we shot. Soon after we encamped, a stray ox was discov- ered among the mezquit bushes which skirted the base of the hills. We did not hesitate to drive him to’ camp for the benefit of the party ; for we had been living on very poor goat’s meat since leaving Guada- lupe. This fine beef proved a valuable accession to our stock of provisions; as many could not stomach the meat of a poor goat, after he had been driven twenty or thirty miles. October 20th. We continued along the shores of the lake for fourteen or fifteen miles, through a plain covered with grass. This plain was ten- or twelve miles wide, bounded on the east by a range of hills, and on the west by rugged mountains. On the op- posite side of the lake appeared a hacienda amid a Stove of cotton-woods—a beautiful spot, which might compare with the highly cultivated grounds of a Kuro- pean nobleman ; but the mark of ruin was upon it—the Apaches had driven away its occupants, and it was fast crumbling to decay. Twenty miles brought us to Hl Penol,a lange haci- enda, near which a herd of cattle was grazing. There did not appear to be any land under cultivation here: VOL. 1L—27 - 418 EL PASO the raising of stock, for which the broad grassy plains are so admirably adapted, seemed to be the sole purpose of the establishment. Near by is a small stream of clear water, bearing the same name as the hacienda, which discharges itself into the lake. On the opposite side of the valley, to the west, and near the termination of the lake, is the village of Hncinillas, consisting of a church and a cluster of adobe houses. This village, as well as El Pefiol and the vast grounds adjacent, are the property of General Trias, formerly governor of Chihuahua.* His estates at the time of the invasion of the Americans contained many thousand ~ head of cattle, which he gave to his government for the support of the army, and for which, I was told, he has never made a claim. We passed to-day a train of mule wagons and 4 carretella on its way to El Paso. There were but few persons in it, except the teamsters; among them, how- ever, I noticed several women and children. We told them of the attack made on us by the Apaches two days before, and advised them to be on their guard. Three Americans and a Mexican, who were with the train, became so alarmed that they left it, and joined us, to return to Chihuahua. October 21st. Continued our journey through the same valley, the mountains now converging to a point some miles in advance. In crossing Pefiol Creek we found innumerable quantities of wild ducks. The sur- face of the water was literally darkened with them; * Don Angel Trias was again chosen Governor of the State in the ‘year 1853. iets ieee ines eae sy. TO CHIHUAHUA. 419 and when at our approach they rose, the noise seemed like distant thunder. I shot twelve, and others of the party brought in numbers. They were all teal. A few miles brought us to the hacienda of El Sauz (The Willow)—a building inclosed by a wall full twenty feet high. This estate also belonged to Gene- ral Trias. We stopped a few minutes at the gate, and the occupants came out to meet us. We endeavored to buy eggs, poultry, or some other kind of fresh pro- visions, but found they had ‘“ nada,” nothing, for sale. This establishment had likewise suffered from the Indians, notwithstanding its high wall, which would inclose many hundred cattle. On one occasion the — Savages for mere sport lamed a large number of these cattle, and filled up a well near by with their carcasses. On the opposite side of the valley is a village called El Sauzillos, or Little Willows. ter a march of twenty-four miles from El Pefol, we reached the Sacramento River, and encamped near the famous battle-field where Colonel Doniphan and his brave Missourians gained the decisive victory which resulted in the surrender of the city of Chihuahua. The Mexicans did not show much judgment in the Selection of this spot to resist the approach of the invading force. It is on the level summit of a plateau Some sixty feet above the valley, and about half a mile in width. The plateau juts directly across the valley we had been travelling, and leaves but a narrow Passage to the east. If the Americans had been obliged to march through this valley, the position of the Mexi- ans would have been a good one. But it was unne- cessary for Colonel Doniphan to force a pass, and thus ° 420 EL PASO give the Mexican batteries full scope to play upon him, when, by diverging half a mile or less to the right, he could avoid them entirely. This he did with- out delay, unattended with loss; and on reaching the plateau, he advanced at once to the attack with an open field before him. By this course he exposed himself only to the right or western battery, on which he immediately opened his fire, striking terror into the ranks of the enemy, which retreated to the adjoining batteries and entrenchments. These also fell, the Mexicans retreating to a hill on the opposite side of the valley of the Sacramento, where the final conflict took place. This valley is less than half a mile wide, and is intersected by the river of the same name, a stream ten or fifteen yards wide, and about a foot deep.* . ; * I annex the most brief account of this battle, which is contained in the official report of Lieutenant Colonel Mitchell, one of the field- officers : “Immediately after gaining the table-land on the enemy’s left, I took command of the right wing of the army, in obedience to your: or- ders, and at the same time gave the necessary instructions to the traders and teamsters in our rear, so as to form a field-work with the wagons to fall back upon in the event of our being too hardly pressed by over- whelming numbers. After the artillery firing (on both sides) ceased for a few moments, I ordered the right wing, consisting of about four hun- dred and fifty mounted riflemen, to advance in a gallop towards the enemy’s entrenchments on their left. © . “During this movement, a battery of five pieces of artillery on the point of a hill, six hundred yards to our right, opened an enfilade fire on the left of our column, which did no execution. : “ By a rapid advance, we reached a deep ravine about one hundred and fifty paces in front of the enemy’s field-works; here I ordered troops to dismount and charge as skirmishers. The Mexican. troops * ae ee eee ae ee TO CHIHUAHUA. 471 - There is a hacienda with other buildings here. A. portion of the valley might be cultivated by irrigation ; but it is for the advantages it offers for grazing, that the land is valuable. October 22d.. Chihuahua is called twenty miles from Sacramento, which is a large estimate. Resum- ing our journey this morning,.we came in sight of the city on reaching the crest of an elevated plain ten miles distant, from which there is a gradual descent to the city. This plain is of a desert-like character, with- out grass, and covered with small mezguit bushes. A we approached, and when within four or five miles of the city, it presented a beautiful appearance, surrounded on three sides by picturesque mountains with bold rocky sides quité detached from each other. Chihua- hua lies in a basin formed by these mountains, and is encompassed with fine large cotton-woods, from which maintained their positions with much gallantry until we advanced with- in twenty or thirty paces of their entrenchments; at this distance the fire of our men was unerring, and any Mexican who raised his bead above the breastworks fell. They soon broke and fled in the utmost confusion, and in every direction, towards the surrounding mountains. I immediately ordered the men to remount and charge the battery on our right, which was done in gallant style. When we reached the top of the hill we found that the Mexicans had fled, leaving the whole of their cdnnon, ammunition, wagons, ete. I saw them retreating in every direction on foot. As cavalry we could have followed and cut off great humbers; but the victory was complete, and I wished to spare the use- less effusion of blood. . “The morning after the battle, I entered the city of Chihuahua at the head of two companies of mounted men and two field or mountain howitzers from Major Clarke’s battalion.”—Report of Lieut, Colonel Mitchell to Colonel Doniphan. Executive Document No.1, 30th Con- Gress, 1st Session. : we 422 EL PASO the towers and dome of its cathedral, and the spires of its lesser churches stand out in bold relief against the adjacent hills. To the right and left along the stream which waters it lie many large haciendas deeply buried in groves of luxuriant trees, presenting alto- gether the most charming landscape we had yet seen in Mexico. On the road we passed many men gather- ing fuel for the city market. This consisted of dried bushes and brushwood; which, when collected, they tied up in huge bundles, and carried in on their backs. =< ANOS MAAQ7q SO a GAARA eR CT NEY dace Carrying wood to Chihuahua. Sl maya oF Both men and boys were engaged i in this panel: ; some of whom we passed full six miles from the city, TO CHIHUAHUA. . Don Tomas Pedrecefia, the proprietor of the place. I found him an intelligent and gentlemanly man; and at my request he furnished us a series of specimens of the ore from his silver mines in the vicinity. The place was originally founded by his grandfather, and had descended to the gentleman we now saw, who, on coming into possession, had leased the estate. The lessees had for several years abandoned the working of the mines, and devoted themselves to working over the scoria and cinders which lay in the hillocks near the town, and from which they were able by some improved process to extract a considerable amount of the precious metal. Seftor Pedrecefia took possession himself about six months before our visit, finding the place was fast running down. With this revival it has quite an air of business. Don Tomas took us into the 474 RIO FLORIDO church, which is in good condition, and is hung with pretty goad pictures of a large size. An advantage in these pictures was, that the name of the subject was painted beneath each of them, a piece of information that would have been feenelehne in the case of many others we had seen. By the advice of our friend, we Se left the direct road, which he informed us was rough and hilly, with some bad arroyos to cross, where wagons were often disabled, and took that to Cuencamé, about twenty miles distant, which we reached early in the afternoon. Cuencamé, or Quincamé, was once a place of some importance, judging from its many well-built houses and churches. It has three of the latter, one of which, on the plaza, is quite an imposing edifice. The houses on the plaza are large, and plastered outside. The shops, of which there are many, are well filled with goods, and have a show of business. As the escort furnished us at Cerro Gordo left us at La Noria, I called on the Prefect of Cuencamé with the letter of General Trias, and requested him to fur- nish me another to El Alamo de Parras, or the first military post in the State of Coahuila. He received me politely, and expressed a willingness to further my views as far as lay in his power. There were no sol- diers in the place; but he agreed to procure for us seven reliable men, if I would allow them the usual pay of privates, and something extra for the corporal; an offer which I readily accepted. He could not furnish _ them animals to ride, as there ¥ were but few in the place. Between here and Parras is the most dangerous TO PARRAS. 475 part of our whole route by reason of the Comanches. The great pass leading to the Bolson de Mapimi is here, through which the Indians enter that portion of Mexico. The little heaps of stones surmounted by crosses, where murders have been committed by the Indians, are met with at every mile; and having got ‘along safe thus far, I did not feel disposed to risk the party and train, if an escort could be had. The present population of Cuencamé is three thou- sand souls, as stated to me by the Prefect. It is a very. old place, and the Franciscans formerly had a con- vent here. It stands ona small stream, barely suffi- cient to. supply the wants of the people. There is no bottom-land near, which gives it a most dreary appear- ance. It is strictly a mining town, and has three smelting works in operation. We went into them, and procured specimens of the ores. November 21st. We were detained several hours Waiting for our escort, so that we did not get off until eleven o'clock, Our course was now east over:a bad road. After going about ten miles, we stopped ata well called La Noria Curefa, an abandoned cattle hacienda, near which was good grass, but no arable land. The well is covered with a handsome octagonal — building, having wheel-work inside for raising the water by mule power. © In an adjoining building we found the leathern buckets, which we rigged with some diffi- culty by attaching them to a broad leather band which passed over a horizontal wheel, and thence down into the well. On-one side these buckets went down empty, and on the other came up filled. The water then fell into a reservoir, whence it was led to the out- 476 RIO FLORIDO side into a trough of stone about four feet wide and a hundred in length. Here the animals were watered, though it was with some difficulty we could get the timid mules to drink from such a respectable-looking affair. The Indians attacked this place shortly before our arrival, took every mule and head of cattle, and drove off the inhabitants; since which time it has been abandoned. ! November 22d. The country had now become .very hilly and rough, with bad roads. On descending a hill, a linch-pin was thrown from one of the wagons, letting the axle down with so much force, that the end of it was. broken off and spoiled. Having some pieces of hard wood in the train, the end was cut off and a piece spliced on, a very difficult job, causing @ detention of four hours. ‘To ease this axle as much as possible, a portion of the load of this wagon was trans- ferred to the others. We now proceeded cautiously, the road still winding among mountains, and at eight o’clock p.m. reached the river Buenaval, having made twenty-five miles. This is a small stream which rises in the State of Zacatecas, and, running north, empties into the Laguna de Parras, in the Bolson de-Mapimi. It has no bottom-land where we crosséd it; and hence is destitute of the cotton-wood trees which are so grati- fying to the eye amid the general barrenness. November 23d. My intention on leaving this morn- ing was to go to the Alamo de Parras, about thirty- five miles distant; but an hour or two after we had started, our spliced axle-tree gave out, which compelled us to stop at the Norva de Pozo Calvo, a well similar to that of Curefia. On examination we found it necessary TO PARRAS. ATT to have a new axle, a want not readily supplied with our limited materials. It was, nevertheless, effected by making a false axle extending two thirds the length of the old one, to which it was fastened with pegs and raw hide. One wheel was consequently six inches further back than the other. Near by were some fields of corn cultivated with- out irrigation, which looked very well. About a month before our visit, the Comanches made a de- scent here, took all the cattle (about forty head) and a number of mules, and killed three men who had them in charge. Only three men now remained at the hacienda, which they intended to abandon in a few days. November 24th. Our march to-day was all the way over the hills, and through long narrow valleys sepa- : tating high ridges of mountains. The road was stony and rough most of the way ; the remainder, a deep sandy loam. The dust raised by astrong wind, which blew directly behind us, so filled the air, that objects could not be seen twenty feet ahead. The wind drew through these defiles with great force, raising clouds of dust independent of that caused by the mules and ‘Wagons. This was the most disagreeable day’s journey we had had, and the most tedious; for we did not teach the Alamo de Parras till two hours after sunset, having made thirty miles. : Soon after our arrival, I called on the Alcalde of the town with the letter of General Trias, and made a request for an escort, as the men from Cuencamé had hot engaged to go any further. He expressed a desire toserve us; but having no troops, he said he could only 478 ‘RIO FLORIDO give us a guard of citizens, on my paying the custom- ary charge. This I readily consented to, and request- ed that seven mounted men might be placed at my disposal. The Alcalde said it would not be possible for him to find men who would be ready to start in the morning, as it was then late. We were, therefore, obliged to remain.over a day. November 25th. This town consists of a street a mile or more in length, well lined on both sides with neat adobe buildings, most of which are colored or whitewashed. Some streets running at right angles contain afew houses. The plaza and church are quite ordinary and not in keeping with the rest of the town, which is altogether more cleanly and business-like than any we had seen since leaving Chihuahua. Ten leagues distant are the Véiesca silver mines, the ore from which is smelted here. In my walks about the town and its vicinity, I observed more cultivated grounds than I had seen elsewhere. To the east isa level plain full ten miles wide, intersected with irrigat- ing canals in every direction. Cotton is cultivated on this plain to a considerable extent, and is found to do well. I procured some samples of the product, a ready market for which is found at Saltillo. 5g November 26th. On the arrival of the citizen guard this morning, we again set out. Our course lay east over the plain mentioned yesterday, which did not con- tain a tree ora bush. On passing this we entered a mountain defile, and soon after reached the hacienda called La Pefia (The Rock). This is simply a well with one large building and a cattle-pen, without any arable land. It formerly possessed large numbers of TO PARRAS. 479 cattle, which grazed on the plain; but no animals can now be kept there, on account of the Indians, who are complete masters of the country, notwithstanding the populous towns in every direction. We did not stop here, intending to reach El Pozo, three leagues further: but in passing the rocky defile, one of the wagons broke down, which made it impossible to proceed as it was. There was no alternative but to empty it of its contents, distribute them among the other wagons, and lock the disabled wheel. In this manner we reach- ‘ed El Pozo late in the evening. As we approached, our horsemen in advance were hailed from the walls; and by the time they came up, twenty armed men were at the gate to receive them. We by this time found the nights very cold, which rendered it necessary to have fires to warm ourselves — when fuel could be obtained. This night in particular was exceedingly cold. El Pozo (The Deep Well) is a large hacienda in- closed with a wall full twenty feet high, resembling a castle or a prison; and is a noted resort for the Co- manches and the Lipans, in passing to and from the Bolson de Mapimi, where they dwell. They pass every few days, and we were told that a large band stopped here but two days before. On that day they attacked a train of pack-mules and donkeys, and completely cut it up. The men with it were missing, and it was not known whether they had been killed, or had made their escape to the mountains. It was at this well that aband of Indians received a chastisement from a detachment from Colonel Doniphan’s command, when * 480 RIO FLORIDO passing through here in 1847.* It is probable the In- dians did not know who their antagonists were, but believed them to be Mexicans. I have been often told that they will not attack a party of Americans, when they know them to be such; as in their contests with them, they usually get the worst of it. November 27th. On starting this morning, we found an addition of six or eight Mexicans, men and women, to our party, who were going to Parras. Our road wound around hills and across deep arroyos. Numer- * “Two days before our arrival, a party of Lipan Indians, upon one of their predatory excursions, had stolen from a hacienda, near Parras, several hundred mules and horses, and killed several men. The pro- prietor, Don Manuel de Ibarra, applied to Captain Reid of our regiment (who was then ahead of us with Lieut. Col. Mitchell’s party) for aid against these Indians. The Captain, one of the most gallant officers, took but eight men along, and, accompanied by the Don himself, went back to El Pozo, where the Indians, on their march to the mountains, had to pass. They had hid themselves in a corral, to await the arrival of the Indians. Quite unexpectedly, about twenty of our vanguard came very early this morning to El Pozo, and increased their party to thirty men. Soon afterwards the Indians appeared, from forty to fifty war- riors. When our men rushed from the corral on horseback to attack them, the Indians (supposing them to be Mexicans) received them with sneering and very contemptuous provocations; and their confidence if their bows and arrows was increased,when the Americans, firing their rifles from horseback, killed none at the first charge. But as soon as our men alighted, and took good aim with their rifles, the Indians fell on all sides. Nevertheless, they fought most desperately, and did not retire till half of them were dead or wounded. But at last they had to run for their lives, and leave all their dead and all their booty behind. Besides their stolen stock, thirteen prisoners, Mexican women and chil- dren, whom they had carried along, were retaken, and released from the brutality of their savage masters, Fifteen Indians were lying dead on the field.”.—Dr. Wislizenus’s Memoir, p. 71. SP PRT eT ee ea deee erg. hee See ay OF ee TO PARRAS. ; - 48] ous heaps of stones with crosses, together with many fresh graves by the road side, reminded us of the prox- imity of the savage and of the murders he had com- mitted. On both sides of the road, three or four miles distant, fan chains of mountains. After a gradual ascent-of ten miles, we saw beneath us a broad valley ; and upon the right of this, at the base of the moun- tains, lay the town of Parras. The whitened walls of its houses, its steeples, and the long rows and clusters of cotton-wood trees, presented an agreeable contrast to the bold rugged mountains in the back-ground. Until quite near the town, the plain is barren and not susceptible of cultivation. It was after sunset when we entered the sakes and we at once drove toa sort of caravanserai, which we entered with the whole train. The mules were placed in a corral adjoining. Four of us quartered ourselves in a small apartment in the court, the rest remained in tents. 482. es PARRAS CHAPTER XLII. PARRAS TO SALTILLO. Parras—Its vineyards—Numerous springs—Orchards—Plantations of the gave—Extent of its cultivation—Pulque—Hacienda Arriba—lts ex- tensive wine vaults and granaries—Visit to the churches—The Ala- meda—Departure from Parras—The Hacienda Abajo—Don Manuel de Ibarra and General Wool—Cienega Grande—Ceguin— V equeria—Gigan- tic Yuecas—Hacienda de Patos—Don Jacobo Sanch His large estates —Claims for indemnification on the United States—Village of Peons— Encantada— allantin and his party, ii. 174, cs eee . —— massacre of migrants by, i es IG ees F Col., aoe at, ii. 152. position off ii. 158. _— ra ean: jobian at, ii. 161. 2 APATA, Chihuaht 457. fue La, Chihu ag ii 457. —— agreat cattle e range, ‘csi Zop1ac, Texas, 15 ZOOLOGICAL ge 8. extent ht e sy Commissi Th Pref. VIL Poa li. 548, 16, a