ENGINEER DEPARTMENT, U.S. ARMY. £0 PORTE HYEPLORA TIONS ED) ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF THE TERRITORY OF UTAH FOR A DIRECT WAGON-ROUTE FROM CAMP FLOYD TO GENOA, IN CARSON VALLEY, eee | IN 1859, CAPTAIN J. H. SIMPSON, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, U. 8. ARMY, [NOW COLONEL OF ENGINEERS, BVT. BRIG. GEN., U. 8. A.] BY AUTHORITY OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, AND UNDER INSTRUCTIONS FROM BYT. BRIG. GEN, A. 8. JOHNSTON, U. 8. ARMY, COMMANDING THE DEPARTMENT OF UTAH. : WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. <6, OFFICE OF THE OHIEF OF ENGINEERS, Washington, D. 0., May 17, 1875. Sir: I have the honor to submit herewith a report by Captain (now Colonel and Brevet Brigadier-General) James H. Simpson, of his Explorations in the Great Basin of Utah in 1859, with a view of recommending that it be printed. It contains much valuable information concerning the geography, topography, geology, meteorology, zodlogy, ethnology, history, and statistics of the country through which Captain Simpson explored a route from Camp Floyd, in the vicinity of Salt Lake City, to Carson City, Nev., which was afterward known as “ Simpson’s route.” This was an original route, é. e., it had not been before explored, and as it shortened the dis- tance from the East to San Francisco more than two hundred and fifty (250) miles, it was at once adopted by the overland mail, the pony-express and the telegraph. The report also contains a description of an exploration for a wagon-road from the valley of the Timpanogos River, over the Uintah Mountains, to the Green River, and a translation from the Spanish of the narrative of Padre Escalante of his remarkable journey from Santa Fé to Utah Lake and return by way of Oraybe (one of the villages of the Moquis), Zui, and Acoma, in 1776~77. . A large part of the country traversed by Captain Simpson has not been described by any sub- sequent explorer; and as his report was not printed, owing to the late war coming on about the time it was completed, the valuable information it contains is not available for the use of the Government or the public. ; I would therefore respectfully recommend that it be printed at the Gov t Printing-Office, and that 1,500 copies be furnished on the usual requisition. By direction of Brigadier-General Humphreys, and in his absence. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, , GEORGE H. ELLIoT, Major of Engineers. Hon. WM. W. BELKNAP, . Secretary of War. Approved : : By order of the Secretary of War. H. T. Crossy, Chief Clerk. WAR DEPARTMENT, May 19, 1875. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. LETIEER OF TRANGMENS Bil s Aicew cutee ven5s saan nak : Page 510, line 27, first column, for To-si-withes read To-si-witches ; line 29, first column, for 460 read 459; line 7, second ae column, for Bouplésd vend Beuplond; line 19, from bottom, for Utah 3,6... read Utah 4, Page 511, line 14, first column, for 121 read 120; line 13, from bottom, first column, for 272 read 262. Page 513, top line, second column, for 254, 25 read 964 , 257; line 4, second column, for attitude read altitude. 7. Page 516, res lines 15 and 16, first sedi: ince Kern . 483; line 27, second column, for Won-a-ho-un-pe read Won-a-ho- “Page 518, line 9 2 fect column. he Thorbaty vend Therabery : Une W, moved eulunine fot 154, 190, ote. ad 149, 184) 189, ete. * LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Wasuinaton, February 5, 1861. Sm: Under date of December 28, 1858, I had the honor to submit to the head- quarters of the Department of Utah a map and report of my explorations and open- ing, under instructions from Bvt. Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston, commanding the depart- ment, of a new wagon-route from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger, Utah, by the way of Timpanogos River Cation and White Clay Creek, and of my explorations west of Camp Floyd, as far as Short Cut Pass, preparatory to more extended explorations during the ensuing year for a direct wagon-route from that post to Carson Valley.* I have now the honor to submit a report and map of my-explorations and open- ing, in 1859, of two new wagon-routes across the Great Basin of Utah, from Camp Floyd to Carson Valley, by means of which the traveling distance from Camp Floyd to San Francisco, when compared with the old Humboldt River route, has been short- ened, in the case of my more northern route, 283 miles, and in the ease of my more southern route, 254 miles. 7 The orders of the Hon. John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, sanctioning the explora- tions, and the instructions of General Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, directing the movement, will be found inserted in their proper place in the sequel. | The report will be found also to include the exploration, by direction of General Johnston, of a new pass from the valley of the Timpanogos River over the Uintah range of mountains into the Green River Valley, by means of which, it is believed, a wagon-route can be obtained thence to Denver City, in Kansas, and thus, by this route, in connection with my route across the Great Basin, a more direct route be obtained across the continent to San Francisco than any which at the present time exists. ee oe The above are the most notable results of the expedition, but embraced in the report will be found information respecting the history, geography, topography, geology, meteorology, botany, zodlogy, ethnology, and statistics of the country traversed, which will not be without interest, as I trust, to the scientific as well as popular mind. — All these subjects are indicated in the Table of Contents, and under each head, in the report, will be found presented the discussions, descriptions, pictorial sketches, * This report forms Senate Ex. Doe. No. 40, 35th Cong., 2d Sess. - 8 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. diagrams, and tables necessary to an elucidation and comprehension of the various topics growing out of the explorations. To my assistants, Lieuts. J. L. Kirby Smith and H. 8. Putnam, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers; Mr. Henry Engelmann, geologist, meteorologist, and botan- ical collector; Mr. Charles S. McCarthy, taxidermist; Messrs. Edward Iagiello and William Lee, chronometer-keepers and meteorological assistants; and Mr. H. V. A. Von Beckh, artist, I hereby tender my thankful acknowledgments for faithful and efficient services rendered. The work performed by each will appear generally in the sequel, to which I refer for proof of the useful character and merit of their respective labors. Lieutenants Smith and Putnam having, under my instructions, had an opportunity to practice for more than a month with the sextant, astronomical transit, unifilar mag- netometer, and dip-circle, at Fort Leavenworth, before the Utah forces destined for Utah in the spring of 1858 took up the line of march for that Territory, and practicing with these instruments again on the march to Utah, they became so dexterous in their use as to make it unnecessary for me to have anything more than a general supervision over their observations subsequently across the Great Basin. ‘To Lieutenant Smith, therefore, were intrusted the daily observations with the sextant for latitude and longi- tude, and to Lieutenant Putnam the occasional observations with the transit of moon and moon-culminating stars for longitude, and with the magnetometer and inclinometer, or . dip-circle, for the intensity, declination, and dip of the magnetic needle. In the “lunars” for longitude both would assist me, three sextants being used, they taking the altitude and I the angular distance, and all at the same instant of time. The other duties performed by these gentlemen will appear noted in the mention made in the journal of the organization at Camp Floyd of the expedition. The very valuable contributions to my report by Mr.-Henry Engelmann, in respect to the geology and meteorology, and by Mr. F. B. Meek, of the paleontology of the country, from Fort Leavenworth to the Sierra Nevada, and especially of that hitherto ferra incognita in these respects, the Great Basin of Utah, I feel assured, will be readily acknowledged by all who take an interest in such subjects. — To Mr. Von Beckh I am indebted for the original sketches of scenery, and to Mr. John J. Young, of this city, for the very handsome manner in which they have been elaborated and perfected in the office for my report. I carried out with me a photographic apparatus, carefully supplied with the necessary chemicals by Mr. E. Anthony, of New York, and a couple of gentlemen accompanied me as photographers; _ but although they took a large number of views, some of which have been the origi- nals from which a few accompanying my journals have been derived, yet, as a general thing, the project proved a failure. Indeed, I am informed that in several of the Goy- ernment expeditions a photographic apparatus has been an accompaniment, and that ‘in every instance, and even with operators of undoubted skill, the enterprise has been attended with failure. The cause lies in some degree in the difficulty, in the field, at short notice, of having the preparations perfect enough to insure good pictures, but chiefly in the fact that the camera is not adapted to distant scenery. For objects very close at hand, which of course correspondingly contracts the field of vision, and for LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 3) single portraits of persons and small groups, it does very well; but_as, on exploring " dxpéditions, the chief desideratum is to daguerreotype extensive mountain-chains and other notable objects having considerable extent, the camera has to be correspondingly distant to take in the whole field, and the consequence is a want of sharpness of out- line, and in many instances, on account of the focal distance not being the same for every object within the field of view, a blurred effect, as well as distortion of parts. In my judgment, the camera is not adapted to explorations in the field, and a good artist, who can sketch readily and accurately, is much to be preferred. The contributions of Dr. George Engelmann upon the botany, Professor Spencer F. Baird on the ornithology, and of Mr. Theodore Gill on the ichthyology of the country traversed by the expedition, will also command attention, on account of the well- earned reputation of these a in their several special branches of scientific inquiry. I must also draw attention to the contribution of Dr. Garland Hurt, in respect to the statistics and resources of Eastern Utah and the history and present condition of the Indian tribes inhabiting the Territory of Utah. The residence of this gentleman for several years in Utah as Indian agent, and his well-known intelligence and probity, give his statements a value which I am pleased here to acknowledge. I must also express my thanks to Maj. Frederick Dodge, the General Govern- ment agent of the Washoe and Pi-Ute Indians, for information in relation to these Indians and the vocabularies of their languages, to be found appended to my report. The courteous treatment of my party by this gentleman on our arrival at Genoa, in Carson Valley, and afterward, was a cordial which can never be forgotten. I also present my grateful acknowledgments to Mr. Edward M. Kern for his very valuable journal of his exploration of the Humboldt River, Carson Lake, and Owen’s River and Lake in 1845, under Capt. John C. Frémont, Corps Topographical Engi- neers, now for the first time given to the public. The fact that this exploration under the authority of the War Department was the original source of the information and maps which we have of this particular portion of our country, gives it a peculiar value which all must acknowledge. I would also draw attention to the map, synopsis, and extracts from the diary of Father Escalante’s journey from Santa Fé to Utah Lake, and thence back to Santa Fé, by way of the Moqui country and the Indian pueblos of Zuni and Acoma, in 1776~77, by Mr. Philip Harry, of the Bureau of Topographical Engineers. Mr. Harry, at my solicitation, has done good service in the cause of geographical history, in translating the manuscript of this Spanish Franciscan monk, and now for the first time presenting extracts from it to the public, with a sketch plotted by him from this father’s notes. The manuscript was kindly placed at my disposal for the purpose stated by Col. Peter Force, of this city, whose well-stocked library has before been drawn upon by officers of our corps for information in relation to the early history of our country. In the introduction to my report, it will be noticed that, before giving a general description of the physical characteristics of the Great Basin, I have gone ~ fully into the history of all the explorations that have been made in it from the time of Escalante to the present period, which I trust will not pid ae to all who take an interest in such researches. 10 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. I must also express my acknowledgments of cheerful service ‘rendered by my assistant in the office, Lieut. Charles R. Collins, Corps Topographical Engineers, and Mr. J. R. P. Mechlin, of this city, in the aid they have given in the computation of scientific data and the draughting of the maps and profiles which accompany my report. — . I should also fail in my obligations did I not bring to the notice of the War De- partment the very valuable assistance I received in the prosecution of my duties in the field from Lieut. Alexander Murry, Tenth Infantry, the commander of the escort accompanying the expedition. Lieutenant Murry is an officer of great energy, and zealous in the promotion of the best interests of the service; and it is a gratification to me to present him thus honorably to the consideration of the Government. I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. H. Srvpson, Captain Corps Topographical Engineers, United States Army. Col. J. J. Apert, Chief Corps Topographical Engineers. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. INTRODUCTION TO REPORT AND JOURNAL. INTRODUCTION, HISTORY OF THE EXPLORATIONS WITHIN THE GREAT BASIN OF THE TERRITORY OF UTAH, FROM THE TIME OF FATHER ESCALANTE, IN 1776, TO THE PRESENT PERIOD, AND A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. t The country known since the date of the explorations of Frémont, in 1843 and 1844, and by his appellation, as the Great Basin, has been, since the days of Fathers Sylvester Velez Escalante, and Francisco Atanacio Dominguez, in 1776, one of great interest» This interest has grown out of the circumstance of its reported inaccessi- bility from extended deserts, its occupancy by Indians of an exceedingly low type, and the laudable curiosity, which prevails in the minds of men, to know the physical characteristics of a country which has so long remained a terra incognita. This Great Basin has a triangular shape, nearly that of a right-angled triangle, the mountains to the north of the Humboldt River and of Great Salt Lake constituting the northern limit or border, and forming one leg of the triangle; the Sierra Nevada, or western limit, the other equal leg; and the Wahsatch range at the eastern, and (in continuation) the short mountain ranges and plateau country to the north of and not far distant from the Santa Fé and Los Angeles caravan or Spanish trail route to the southeast, the hypothenuse. These limits are embraced approximately within the 111th and 120th degrees of west longitude from Greenwich, and the 34th and 43d of north latitude, or within a limit of nine degrees of longitude and nine of latitude. The earliest records we have of any examination of any portion of this Basin is derived from the journal of Father Escalante, descriptive of the travels of himself and party in 177677, from Santa Fé to Lake Utah (by him called Laguna de nuestra Senora de la merced de Timpanogotyes, and also Lake Timpanogo), and thence to Oraybe, one of the villages of the Moquis, and back to Santa Fé. A manuscript of Ee, Beene eS eee ee (a) Humboldt, in his “New Spain,” translated by John Black, vol. 1, second edition, London, 1814, chap. I, p- 22, says: “These regions,” referring to those between the Colorado and Lake Timpanogos (Utah Lake), “abounding in rock-salt, were examined in 1777 by two travelers, full of zeal and intrepidity, monks of the order of Saint Francis, Father Escalante and Father Antonio Velez.” According to the ipt narrative of these travels by Father Esca- lante, referred to subsequently in this report, and which I have consulted, I find that Friar Francisco Atanacio Domin- ied n. g sing was Silvester Velez Escalante. Can it be that Humboldt has fallen into the error of making two distinct persons out of this father’s name, and of omitting that of " Dominguez altogether? Or did a monk by name Antonio Velez explore this same region separately from the others and in the same year? I notice, also, that Humboldt dates Escalante’s journey A. D. 1777. The manuscript shows that it was commenced July 29, 1776, and terminated in January, 1777. 14 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. this journey in the Spanish language is to be found in the rare and valuable library of Col. Peter Force, city of Washington, to which, agreeably to his well-known liberality, I have had ready access, and from which has been extracted for this report the valu- able summary to be found, marked Appendix R, and for which I am indebted to the zealous co-operation of Mr. Philip Harry of the Bureau of Topographical Engineers. There will also be found in Mr. Harry’s paper an extract from the manuscript, descrip- tive of Lake Utah and its valley, which Escalante explored as far north, doubtless, as- the Timpanogos River (by him called the Rio San Antonio de Padua), and an allusion ~ to the outlet of Lake Utah into a large body of salt water farther north, without question Great Salt Lake. The destination of Escalante, his journal shows, was Monterey, on the Pacific coast; but being forced, doubtless by the desert immediately west of Lake Utah, to. take the so-called: southern or Los Angeles route, which Bonneville’s party in 1834 and Frémont in 1844 followed, and finding that, while making a great deal of south- ing, he had made but little progress toward Monterey, his provisions giving out, and he fearing the approach of winter, with some difficulty he prevailed upon his party to abandon the idea of reaching Monterey, and to return to Santa Fé by the way of the villages of the Moquis and of Zuni. (See the map of his route, Plate I, Appendix R.) The next authentic record which shows that any portion of the Great Basin sys- tem was explored at an early date is to be fownd on the map entitled Appendiente al Diario que formo el P. F. Pedro Font del Viaye que hizo é Monterey y Puerto de San Fran- cisco, y del Viaye que hizo el P. Garces al Moqui, “P. F. Petrus Font fecit Tubutana anno 1777;” which may be freely translated as follows: “A supplement to the diary of Father F. Pedro Font’s journey to Monterey and San Francisco, and of Father Garces’s to Moqui, executed by P. F. Petrus Font, at Tubutana, in the year 1777.”" _ According to this map, it appears that Father Garces traveled as early as 1777 (Humboldt says in 1773)° from the mission of San Gabriel, near the Pacific coast, in California, to Oraybe, one of the villages of the Moquis, and that his route was along the Rio de los Matires (evidently, from its position, the Mojave). Frémont and others supposed that the Mojave was a tributary of the Colorado, and therefore did not be- long to the Great Basin system; but this idea was exploded by Lieutenant William- (b) A copy of this map is in the Bureau of Topographical Engineers, it having been furnished by Capt. E. 0.C. Ord, Third Artillery, from an original one in the archives of California, and is quite interesting as showing the large number of Spanish settlements in Middle Sonora at the time of the travels of Fathers Font and Garces, and the exact routes explored by them. _ Aecording to Humboldt, Father Garces was the principal personage in these explorations, and to Father Font were _ intrusted the observations for latitude. Greenhow, in his Oregon and California, 4th ed., p. 114, speaking of the [journals of Friars Escalante and Dominguez, and of Friars Garces and Font, says, “ They are still preserved in manu- _ script in Mexico, where they have been consulted by Humboldt and other travelers, but they are, from all accounts, of no value.” In regard to the journal of Escalante, Mr. Greenhow’s criticism is unjust, for not only is this journal written in a plain, unpretending, direct manner, but it abounds in excellent and apparently just observations and facts; and it is wonderful that the courses and distances given by him from Utah Lake back to Santa Fé, by way of Oraybe and — Zahii, should plot so correctly, and should agree so well as they do with our present maps. And in regard to the journal _ of Friars Garces and Font, Humboldt, in speaking of the Chronica from which he derives his information respecting the travels of these monks, expressly states that “it forms a large folio volume of 600 pages, and is well-deserving of an extract being made from it.” He goes on to say: “It contains very te geographical notions as to the Indian tribes inhabiting California, Sonora, the Moqui, Nabojoa, and the banks of the Gila,” ' ee ee — joa, (See note, Humboldt’s New _ * (©) See his New Spain, vol. II, page 268. | = > INTRODUCTION TO REPORT AND JOURNAL. 15 son, Topographical Engineers, in 1853,* and afterward by Lieutenant Parke, Topo- graphical Engineers, in 1855,° both of whom fully determined that this stream sank, and that intervening it and the Colorado was a ridge which separated these. waters. In this connection, it may be interesting to observe that Humboldt, speaking of the delay on the part of the Spaniards, notwithstanding their enterprising spirit, in opening communications between New Mexico and California, holds the following language : “The letter post still (at the date of his researches in 1803~04) goes from this port (San Diego) along the northwest coast to San Francisco. This last establish- ment, the most northern of all the Spanish possessions of the new continent, is almost under the same parallel with the small town of Taos, in New Mexico. It is not more than 300 leagues distant from it, and though Father Escalante, in his apostolical ex- cursions in 1777, advanced along the western bank of the river Zaguananas toward - the mountains de los Guacaros, no traveler has yet come from New Mexico to the coast of New California. This fact must appear remarkable to those who know, from the history of the conquest of America, the spirit of enterprise and the wonderful courage with which the Spaniards were animated in the sixteenth century. Hernan Cortez landed for the first time on the coast of Mexico, in the district of Chalchinheuecan, in 1519, and in the space of four years had already constructed vessels on the coast of the South Sea, at Zacatula and Tehuantepec. “Tn 1537, Alvar Nutiez Cabeza de Vaca appeared, with two of his companions, worn out with fatigue, naked, and covered with wounds, on the coast of Caliacan, opposite the peninsula of California. He had landed with Panfilo Narvaez in Florida, and after two years’ excursions, wandering over all Louisiana and the northern part of Mexico, he arrived at the shore of the great ocean in Sonora. This space which Nujiez went over is almost as great as that of the route followed by Captain Lewis from the banks of the Mississippi to Nootka and the mouth of the river Columbia.‘ When we consider the bold undertakings of the first Spanish conquerors in Mexico, Peru, and on the Amazon River, we are astonished to find that for two centuries the ‘same nation could-not find a road by land in New Spain from Taos to the port of Monterey.”® Humboldt here was undoubtedly in error. The map of Father Font, before re- ferred to, shows that as early as 1777 Father Garces traveled from the mission of San Gabriel, near the Pacific coast, to Oraybe, one of the villages of the Moquis, in New Mexico, and the inscription on the rock “EI Moro,” near Zuni, in New Mexico, an account and transcript of which I give in my “Journal of a military reconnaissance from Santa Fé to the Navajo country in 1849,”" show that there was as early as 1716 a communication opened with the Moquis from Santa Fé. The inscription is as follows: “In the year 1716, upon the 26th day of August, passed by this place (da) Pacific Railroad Reports, vol. V, pages 33 and 34. ‘ : (e). Pacific Railroad Reports, vol. VII, page 3. : : (f) “This wonderful journey of Captain Lewis was undertaken under the auspices of Mr. Jefferson, who by this important service rendered to science has added new claims on the gratitude of the savans of all nations.” (Note by Humboldt.) . (g) Humboldt’s New Spain, vol. ii, pp. 289-290. = (h) See Sen, Ex. Doc. 64, 31st Cong., 1 sess., p. 123, or same published by Lippincott, Grambo & Co., 1852, p. 104. 16 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Don Felix Martinez, governor and captain-general of this kingdom, for the purpose of reducing and uniting Moquis—” (a couple of words here not decipherable). The manu- script of Father Escalante’s journal before referred to also shows that there was a well- known road from Oraybe, via Zuni, to Santa Fé, and which his party followed. These facts show that at least as early as 1777, and most probably as early as 1773 (the date according to Humboldt of Garces’s journey to Oraybe), there was a communica- tion all the way from Santa Fé, and without doubt from Taos, via Moqui, to San Gabriel; and, as Father Font’s map shows, even all the way to Monterey and the bay of San Poakieincs. The next published account of the earliest discoveries of any portion of the Great Basin of Utah, which has aided me very much in my historical investigations, I find, in the most excellent memoir of Lieut. Gouverneur K. Warren, Corps Topogtaphical Engineers, United States Army, exhibiting the data and authorities from which was compiled the map of the United States territory between the Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean, intended to illustrate the reports upon the Pacific Railroad explorations. In this memoir, which shows great labor and research, is a letter to Lieutenant Warren from Mr. Robert Campbell, a well-known gentleman of Saint Louis, who has been connected with the fur-trade in the tramontane region of the West. In this letter Mr. Campbell gives verbatim the statement of Mr. James Bridger,' corroborated by Mr. Samuel Tolleck, both Indian traders, to the effect that he (Bridger) was the first dis- coverer of Great Salt Lake, in the winters of 1824 and 1825." oe Lieutenant Warren’s Memoir, vol. xi, Pacific Railroad Reports, p. 35. &) Mr. Bridger further states, in} Mr. Cuupheile letter, that “in the spring of 1826 four men went in skin boats around it to discover if any streams containing beaver were to be found emptying into it, but returned with indifferent success.” Washington Irving, in his “ Bonneville’s Adventures,” revised edition of 1849, page 186, says: “Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains, is said to have sent four men in a skin canoe to explore the lake, who professed to have navigated all round it, but to have suffered excessively from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and there being no fresh streams running into it.” ptain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished the WEEE ccc ad Recenee he says, _ ** the lake receives fexthken large streams from the mountains which bound it to the It appear that Sublette, in all probability, was the person who ont out ey four men referred to by Bridger, in a skin pag explore the lake ; and, though Bonneville doubts 6 TOpore tt Anievauaee, yet the testi- rae of Bridger is corroborative of it, and the circumstance of its being an nto the lake on its west shore, along its whole length, and Captain Stansbury, as he says, in his survey of the lake ‘a 1850 (see his report, page 103), ‘(having frequently found it necessary to make a voyage of fifty miles to obtain a supply even for a few Saya og certainly account for et ee of Sublette’s party. It may be true that Sublette’s party did not discover the fresh-wate: to the lake from the south and east which Bonneville speaks of; but this only Bhons t that they aid ack explore the lake pace not that they did not explore it atall. Inthise connection, wever, f a Mr. W. Marshall Anderson, taken from the National hows Intelligencer, which, it ; will be perceived, claims for both Messrs. Ashley and Provost the credit of prior discovery of Great Salt Lake to either Bridger or Bonneville: “WHO DISCOVERED SALT LAKE? “‘Among the ‘thousand and one’ articles of freight and baggage which went down to the bay by the steamer Queen: City sebtuetay; wate e two: old flint-lock, ‘smooth-bore rifles of the real old ‘Kaintuck’ stripe. They were brought oe , flinty-locked, and hard-stocked as themselves. Being curious to learn their history, and who it was that possessed —— = made : few inquiries, and the owner, being mellowed by the genial ss baggenas of the corn-vintage cts: His name was Seth Grant, a Scotchman by birth, who came to America at an early age, in the year 1819, oak: join the American Fur Company. In 1826 he accompanied " Diidiet-the founder of Fort Bridger—and his partner, Colonel Vasquez, to the then unknown wilds of the West, far _ beyond the headwaters of the Platte or Yellowstone. It was on one of these fur-seeking, marauding ec ae cise the Frenchman, Colonel yerrnee, while out on an ——— diseovered the Great Salt Lake of Utah. sane extent of the lake, with its d islands, so deceiv he Bs LCLIOWS — ag —— oe an arm of the prio Ocean, rots 50, ‘indeed, it seemed, for it 1 was yeas before the error was INTRODUCTION TO REPORT AND JOURNAL. 2 The next authentic account of any discoveries within the Great Basin I find given in ‘“Bonneville’s Adventures,” by Washington Irving. Colonel Bonneville, it would appear, was the first explorer to cross, in 1852, the Rocky Mountains into the valley of Green River, with wagons.' To quote from ie ing: “On the 24th July, 1833, by his (Captain Bonneville’s) orders, a brigade of 40 men set out from Green River Valley to explore the Great Salt Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping on all the small streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals and make charts calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the surrounding country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been taxed to fit out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the southwest of the mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet almost unknown; being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed by the trapper, who preferred those parts of the wilderness where the roaming herds of that species of animal gave him compar- atively an abundant and luxurious life. Still, it was said the deer, the elk, and the big horn were to be found there, so that, with a little diligence and economy, there was corrected. The two rifles in possession of Mr. Grant were a portion of the arms of the original party, and bore the marks of having seen long and honorable service. Mr. Grant values them highly, and being on his way back to his own native land, intends taking them as trophies, to be hung up with the tartans and claymores of his countrymen,’—Sac- ramento Standard, “SEVEN Oaks, February 16, 1860, “ Messrs. Editors of the National Intelligencer : “Allow me to call your attention to the above paragraph, credited to the Sacramento Standard. The writer, on the authority of a Mr. Seth Grant, says that my old friend Vasquez, of the Rocky Mountains, was the discoverer of the Great Salt Lake, of Utah. The honor could not possibly I worthier man. Can this geograph- ical fact be now ascertained and settled beyoud dispute ? Was Colonel Vasquez the cisoverct of that remarkable body of water? My answer is,no. I not only doubt, but I emphatically deny, that statement. A little more than a quarter of a century ago I heard the very subject of the priority of its discovery debated by old mountaineers, almost in the vicinity of the lake itself. To furnish better proof than unassisted memory, I send you the following extract from a letter written by me in 1837, at the request of the venerable Skinner, and published in the 8th volume of the American Turf Register : “ ‘Here, for a time, I will end my description of the cients of she otnsions prairies, and Lt too, I will ond this hasty letter, after protesting, solemnly protesting, against an act of injustice done to a numerous class of our western citizens, by our much admired Irving, or by Capt. ain Bonneville wane ans. In the name of Sublette, Fitzpatrick, cbotegecone Deippes, Bridger, and Campbell, I protest against the name ‘Lake Bonneville,’ given -by the author of ‘ Astoria’ and the ‘Rocky Mountains’ to that great inland sea, the ‘ Urimiah’ of our continent. In the name of Ashley, who had described this lake eighteen or twenty years before Captain Bonneville ever crossed the mountains, I protest i —: name. What justice, what honor can there be, in claiming the right of naming that ‘ wonder of the western w after Bonneville, when it had been found, circumambulated, and trapped on as early as 1820 by Provost? This ee was once called ‘Ashley,’ and with much more propriety, high and respected as is the - eo of Irving. ‘ Fiat justitia.’’ “The above was written at the time indicated, from my journal-notes, taken down in the presence of the interlocu- tors in 1834. Provost was then ‘no more.’ Neither praise nor censure could reach him. His survivors and brothers in the hardships and hazards of mountain life gave to him alone the credit of haying discovered and made known the — existence and whereabouts of that inland sea. Notwithstanding the positive astertion vs Seth Grant, * ae ere the- genial influence of the corn-vintage,’ I deny its truth. I will not pursue the sul fi ly eight years had elapsed since Vasquez and his companions had come upon ‘that arm of the Pacific Ocean, and yet he, then present, made no claim, and his associates; and equals, of both the American and Booty Mountain Fur Companies, haa whom he was the general favorite, did not assign him even a secondary honor. “Confidently appealing to my surviving friends and acquaintances of the mountains for correction or REPORT AND JOURNAL. 51 the south of Devil’s Hole. A Ute Indian at the mail-station says, however, there is water there, and I have therefore instructed the guide to take the Indian with him and examine the region again in that direction. If water is found there, I shall change the road accordingly on my return from Carson Valley. Took up march at 64 o’clock. In 3.5 miles pass Warm Spring and a mail-stationr. Soon after starting it commenced to rain, which softened the road at the outset so much as to cause the wagons, 6 miles from Fish Springs, to stall occasionally in a dis- tance of one-quarter of a mile. Detained an hour on this account. At this point the road doubles the point of the range along which we have been traveling, and continues on the plain of the desert toward the Go-shoot or Tots-arrh Mountains, meaning high mountain range. After making a journey of 29.7 miles, and coming for the first time to grass, the mules beginning to give out, we were obliged about sundown to encamp without water, except that in our kegs. I however found water 2.5 miles ahead, to which we will move to-morrow. The journey to-day has been a hard one, on account of the sandy and, in some places, boggy character of the soil. The country passed over is as desert a region as I ever beheld, scarcely a spear of grass visible, and in some areas not even the characteristics of an arid soil, greasewood, or sage. In some places the ground is perfectly bare of everything, and is as smooth and polished as a varnished floor. The first grass we have met with is that in which we are encamped. The Go-shoot or Tots-arrh Mountains have been nearly all day long directly ahead of us, and appear very high. The peaks are covered with snow, and some 70 miles quartering to the left from our camp may be seen a towering one, which I call Union Peak, on account of its presenting itself in a doubled and connected form.* The geological character of the range is sedimentary, intermingled with quartz-rock Our teams, considering the hard winter they have just passed through at Camp’ Floyd and the short forage upon which, of necessity, they have been fed, have thus far done remarkably well. May 8, Camp No. 6, Great Salt Lake Desert.—Altitude above the sea, 4,593 feet. Bugle sounded reveille at 4. Morning bright and clear. Thermometer at 43 a. m., 33°.75. Moved at half past five. In one mile, pass on our left an alkaline spring. Water not drinkable. In 1.2 miles more, come to a sulphur spring, where there is an abundance of water and grass, and where we encamped. It being Sunday, and the | animals and party requiring rest, we have only made this short march of 2.5 miles to get to feed and water. The water, though sulphurous, is quite palatable to man and beast. The shrill whistle of the curlew and the harsh croaking of the sand-hill crane indicate that we are in a better region than that we have been passing over for a few days back. The view from this camp, in contrast with that we have witnessed since we left General Johnston’s Pass, is quite refreshing. Grass can be seen for a consid- erable stretch in the valley to the south of our camp, and the mountains, among them the Granite and Go-shoot Mountains, hemming us in at distant points, make up an agreeable landscape. : oo Just before dinner a Parvan(Ute) Indian (Black Hawk) came into camp. This is (*) This peak was again seen on our return route, July 20, and still, in its recesses, it was covered with snow. El 62 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the first Indian we haye seen on our route. His squaw is a Go-shoot woman, and he lives among that people. Gave him his dinner and some tobacco. Had asketch of him taken. He wears his hair tied up at the temples and behind; carries a buckskin pouch and powder-horn; a bow and quiver swung on his right side; wears a pink checked Amer- ican shirt, buckskin leggins and moccasins, and a blanket around his loins; an old black silk handkerchief is tied about his neck. He has one huge iron spur on his right heel, and rides a sorrel pony. His height is 5 feet 74 inches; has a stout square frame; age, probably, 35; earries a rifle. His bow is 3 feet long, and is made of sheep’s horn; arrow, 25 inches long, feathered, and barbed with iron. His countenance is ordinarily | sardonic, but lights up in conversation, and shows as much intelligence as Indians do ordinarily. 2 This evening, just at dark, two six-mule teams, belonging to the mail company, came in from Ruby Valley, and, after watering, continued on to Fish Springs. Took them five days to make the trip, they lying over one day. Report the road worked through to Ruby Valley, and the mail-stage is to run the next trip as far as the station in that valley from Camp Floyd. Heretofore it has run only as far as Simpson’s Spring; from that point to the Humboldt River the mail has been carried on pack- mules. — May 9, Camp No. 7, Sulphur Spring.—Longitude, 113° 46’ 19”; latitude, 39° 40’ 36”. Altitude above the sea, 4,633 feet. The forage brought by the three teams from Camp Floyd being about expended, they left this morning on their return to the post. Morning bright and clear. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 37°.25. Resumed march at 25 minutes of 6, and shaped our course south of west for a wide pass through the Go- shoot Mountains, which we commence ascending in 4.5 miles. In 6 miles more you reach the east summit (altitude above the sea, 6,903 feet), by a tolerable grade, and thence, in 2.5 miles, descend, by a good grade, to Pleasant Valley, where we find an abundance of grass and plenty of water. A mile more brought us to the spring, the copious source of the stream which runs eastwardly through the valley into a large valley, which I call Crosman Valley, after Lieut. Col. George H. Crosman, deputy - quartermaster-general and chief of the quartermaster’s department in the Military Department of Utah. This stream (Pleasant Valley Creek) has a width of 12 feet, is 5 feet in depth, of sandy bottom, and has a rapid current. The water is of a very pure, wholesome character. Near the spring we encamp, after a march of 13.4 miles, At this point is a mail-station, a log house. The mail company has done a great deal of work in the pass we have just come through, in removing rocks, filling up gullies, and making side cuts. We have to-day seen.a number of Go-shoot Indians. They aremost wretched- looking creatures, certainly the most wretched I have ever seen, and I have seen great numbers in various portions of our country. Both men and women wear a cape made _ of strips of rabbit-skins, twisted and dried, and then tied together with strings, and _ drawn around the neck by a cord. This cape extends to just below the hip, and is eo but a scant protection to the body. They séldom wear leggins or moccasins, and the wome Women appear not to be conscious of any impropriety in exposing their persons down to the waist. Children at.the breast are perfectly naked, and this at a time when over- REPORT AND JOURNAL. Bes] coats were required by us. The men wear their hair cut square in front, just above the eyes, and it is allowed to extend in streamers at the temples. The women let their hair grow at random. They live on rats, lizards, snakes, insects, grass-seed, and roots, and their largest game is the rabbit, it being seldom that they kill an antelope. I learn from Mr. Faust, the mail-agent at this point, that there are only about 200 Go-shoots all told of every age. They use, generally, the bow and arrow, there being only one gun to about 25 men. IIe represents them as of a thievish disposition, the - mail company having lost by them about 12 head of cattle and as many mules. They steal them for food. : The farm the Government has ‘opened for them is on Deep Creek, 25 miles west of north from this station. The Indian agent is Mr. Jarvis. Mr. Faust represents the valley of Deep Creek (by Beckwith called Fish Creek, by others I-van-pah), as quite large and fertile. The creek is narrow and so deep (from 6 to 12 feet) as to drown animals, and 1,500 acres of good land can be profitably irrigated by it. Captain Beekwith, in speaking of this valley, says: ‘The valley is here several miles wide, and the stream lined with grass, which is not all, however, of superior quality. Many of the small settlements of Utah are not so well supplied with the requisites for suc- cessful cultivation as those found on this stream.” Mr. Faust also represents that there is a large quantity of fine timber (pine, fir, and cedar) in the vicinity, and, doubtless, building-stone. Just at sunset I walked out with Mr. Faust to see some of these Go-shoots at home. We found, about 1.5 miles from camp, one of their habitations, which con- sisted only of some cedar branches disposed around in the periphery of a circle, about 10 feet in diameter, and in such a manner as to break off, to the height of about 4 feet, wind from the prevailing direction. In this inclosure were a number of men, women, and children. Rabbit-skins were the clothing generally, the poor infant at the breast having nothing on it. In the center was a camp-kettle suspended to a three- legged crotch or tripod. In it they were boiling the meat we had given them. An old - woman superintended the cooking, and at the same time was engaged in dressing an antelope-skin. When the soup was done, the fingers of each of the inmates were stuck into the only dish, and sucked. While this was going on, an Indian came in from his day’s hunt. His largest game was the rat, of ahiels he had a number stuck around under the string of his waist. These were soon put by the old woman on the fire, and the hair scorched; this done, she rubbed off the crisped hair with a pine-knot, and then, thrusting her finger into the paunch of the animal, pulled out the entrails. From these, pressing out the offal, she threw the animal, entrails and all, into the pot. : The rats are caught by a dead-fall made of a heavy stone, and supported by a _ kind of figure 4, made as it ordinarily is for a trap, except that, instead of a piece of wood, a string is used, tied, and provided with a short button, which, being brought around the uptight, is delicately held in position by a spear of dried grass or delicate piece of wood, which, pressing against the button, rests at the other end against the ground or stone. Traps like these are placed over the holes of the rats, and they, coming in contact with the long or lower piece of the figure 4, bring the stone upon them. They are also speared in their holes by a stick turned = slightly at the end 54 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. and pointed, and with another, of a spade-form at the end, the earth is dug away until the animal is reached and possessed. - The Go-shoots, as well as the Diggers, constantly carry about with them these instruments of death, which, with the bow and arrow and net, constitute their chief means for the capture of game. Hanging on:the brush about their “kant,” as they call their habitations, I noticed one of these nets. It was well made, of excellent twine fabricated of a species of flax which grows in certain localities in this region, is 3 feet _ wide, and of a very considerable length. With this kind of net they catch the rabbit. A fence or barrier, made of the wild sage-bush plucked up by the roots, or cedar branches, is laid across the paths of the nibbles and on this fence the net is mre verti- cally, and in its meshes the rabbit is caught. The fear of capture causes these people to live generally some distance from the water, which they bring to their “kant” in a sort of jug made of willow tightly platted together and wianied with fir-gum. They also make their bowls and seed and root baskets in the same way—a species of manufacture quite common among all the Indian tribes, and which, in 1849, I saw in the greatest perfection among the Navajos and Pueblo Indians of New Mexico.* I noticed a species of the food they eat, aie which is made from seeds and roots which they get in the bottoms. I tasted it, but it looking precisely like a cake of cattle-ordure, and having anything but an agreeable taste, : soon disgorged it. The Go-shoots, according to Me Bean, my guide of last fall, wit has lived in this country for the last ten years, and professes to be well adquninted with the various tribes inhabiting the Territory, are an offshoot from the Ute Indians, and left their tribe about two generations ago, with their leader or chief, Goship, a disaffected leader. Their proper name, therefore, is probably Goship-Utes, which has become con- tracted into Go-shoots. Their language is a sort of gibberish, made up of the Ute and Sho-sho-nee dialects. It is said they are little catoanaet by the original tribe, though I find occasionally a Ute Indian among them married to one of their people. They have until recently recognized no chief. Now, at the instigation of the Govern- ment, they have elected one, but as yet do not know how to respect him. It was amusing to see how the women slyly tucked under their rabbit-skins the hickory (checked) shirts we gave them, their whole demeanor representing that they are a suspicious, secretive set. We found the guide, Mr. Reese, at our present camping-ground. He found the > water at the places represented by the Indian he took with him from Camp No. 5, but farther south than he had gone. Paid the Indian in tobacco and a couple of hickory 8 “Meg 10, Camp No. 8, Pleasant Valley—Altitude above thé sea, 6, 150 feet. Ice formed in the bucket last night. Thermometer at 5a. m., 33°.75. The guide, with Ute Indian Pete and two other men, left us this morning to continue an examination of the country to the south of and parallel to our route. They are to continue on, if a. in that direction, and join us in Ruby Valley. _ Pleasant Valley, which is very narrow, contains grass all along it, but no water Se * See my report of Navajo expedition, Sen. Ex. =~ No. 64, 31st Cong., 1st sess., p. 118. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 5D above the spring where we encamped last night, except occasionally, The mountains are covered with cedars, and also contain pine and fir large enough for building pur- poses, and stone. Below the spring there is a very limited amount of cultivable land, which might be irrigated. This is the first cultivable land we have seen since we left Camp Floyd. The universal scene has been an arid, light argillo-arenaceous soil in the valleys, and the artemisia more or less everywhere. From Pleasant Valley to Camp No. 8, the road, which has a general direction north of west, traverses in 8.5 miles two or three steep but short hills, which, however, did not require the teams to be doubled, to the west summit of the Tots-arrh range (altitude above the sea, 7,150 feet), and thence 4 miles to camp. The mail company have done on this portion of the route some little work, but not enough to make the road what it should be. The road as made does not follow the direct pack-route, but makes quite a detour to the right or north. The mail-man, who has piloted us from the last camp, says @ road, however, could be made by the pack-mule route, which would save several miles. The diffi- culty is a very steep declivity into Antelope Valley. The formation of the Tots-arrh range, in which Pleasant Valley lies, is made up of slaty and calcareous rocks, mostly highly altered, and on the south side of the valley are seen granite rocks and quartzite. On the west side, near our present camp (No. 9), impure limestones and sandstones abound, pointing to the Carboniferous forma- tion. The soil of the valleys correspond. The Co-shoots that came to our camp in Pleasant Valley have followed us to our present camp, and have been regaling themselves with the entrails and refuse of a beef we have killed. | Two of our party went in advance to shoot antelope in Antelope Valley, in which we are informed they are frequently visible; they have returned, however, unsuccess- ful. Journey, to-day, 12.5 miles. : In this country, where grass is scattered as it is in the case of the bunch-grass, or scarce, it is necessary, in order to keep up the condition of the animals, to herd them. For this purpose we have four herders, three of whom are Mexicans and one an American. One of these drives the herd during the day, the others sleeping in the wagons, and at night the last mentioned take care of them. We have, therefore, brought with us only a few lariats for the horses, which, however, are seldom used except as guys to our wagons along side-hills, and to close up the gaps between the wagons when corralled for stock-catching in the morning. At Camp Floyd and other places in Utah, there are a number of Mexicans who prove valuable as herders. Besides being capital for looking up stray animals, they are generally expert in throw- ing the lasso. May 11, Camp No. 9, east slope of Antelope Valley—Altitude above the sea, 6,658 feet. Ice formed again last night. Thermometer, at 44 o’clock this morning, 22°, Atmosphere sharp but clear. Moved at 25 minutes of 6. Course, south of west across Antelope and Shell Valleys. Just after leaving camp we have a fine distant view of the mountains hemming in the Antelope Valley at the west and north. — After getting across the valley you can see to the east of south, glittering with snow, the high peak of the Go-shoot, or Tots-arrh range (Union Peak), some 60 miles off. This valley 56 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. runs north and south, is flatly and smoothly concave, and about 12 miles wide; is bounded on the east by the Tots-arrh or Go-shoot range; on the west by the Un-go- we-ah, or Pine Timber range, which are next to the Tots-arrh in height; at the north distantly it appears to be hemmed in by mountains, and at the south is uninterrupted in | view. Altitude above the sea, 5,690 feet. The soil is a sandy gravel on the benches, in the bottom argillaceous and covered with short sage. In the vicinity where we cross it there are no indications of water or grass, but some 50 miles to the south of us, to the north of our return-route, there is water and an abundance of grass. After crossing Antelope Valley, you ascend a rather low range of mountains, composed of slaty, stratified rocks, by a tolerable grade, and get into a shallow valley, called Shell Valley on account of its being covered with shale. Crossing this you descend over a forma- tion of dioritic rocks, in 2 miles, by a good grade, into Spring Valley, where there is an extensive bottom of alkaline grass and’of spring water, and where we encamp early in the afternoon. Journey, 19 miles; road generally good. This is a narrow valley, running north and south, and lies between the Un-go-we-ah range on the west anda low minor range on the east. It is called Spring Valley, from the number of springs which make a chain of small shallow lakes or ponds in the direction of its length. The grass in it is abundant, but coarse and alkaline. Better grass can be found in the ravines and on.the bench on the west side of the valley. The alkaline nature of the soil makes it unfit for cultivation. The formation of the valley, which is of a highly metamorphosed character, is composes probably, of semi- - fused stratified rocks. Found some Root-Diggers here, one a very old woman, bent over with infirmities, very short in stature, and the most lean, wretched-looking object it has ever been my lot to see. Had her likeness taken. These Indians appear worse in condition than the meanest of tha animal creation. Their garment is only a rabbit-skin cape, like those already described, and the children go naked. It is refreshing, however, in all their degradation, to see the mother studi- ously careful of her little one, by causing it to nestle under her rabbit-skin mantle. At first they were afraid to come near us, but bread having been given to the old woman, by signs and words she made the others in the distance understand that they had nothing to fear, and prompted them to accompany her to camp to get something to eat. Notwithstanding the old woman looked as if she was famished, it was very touching to see her deal out her bread, first to the little child at her side, and then, only after the others had come up and got their share, to take the small balance for herself. At camp, the feast we gave them made them fairly laugh for joy. Near our camp I visited one of their dens or wick-e-ups. Like that already de- scribed, it was an inclosure, 3 feet high, of cedar-brush. The offal around, and in a few feet of it, was so offensive as to cause my stomach to retch, and cause a hasty retreat. Mr. Bean told me the truth when he spoke of the immense piles of feces voided by these Indians, about their habitations, caused doubtless by the vegetable, innutritious character of the food. _ These Digger Indians certainly demand the care and beneficence of the Govern- ent, and itis a ‘gaticflintind to know that an Indian agent has been sent among them to REPORT AND JOURNAL. 57 teach them the arts of civilized life. Sure I am, if the discontented among our people could only see these poor creatures in their want and wretchedness, they could not repine at their lot. I noticed the women carrying on their backs monstrous wiltow baskets filled with — a sort of carrot root, which they dig in the-marsh, and the cacti, both of which they use for food. The stature of these Indians, both male and female, is under size. After dark a number came in; but itis a rule with us not to permit them to remain all night in camp, and they were told that though they could not remain with us, they could come in the morning. Their joyous conversation shows that they believe they have got among good friends, May 12, Camp No. 10, Spring Valley. — Altitude above the sea 6,133 feet. 'Ther- mometer at 44 o’clock this morning, 22°. Had quite a cold night; fires still desirable in the morning; water in the valley frozen over. Ever since we left Camp Floyd snow has covered the high mountains. The grass in the valley is yet but afew inches long. On the sides of the mountain, however, where it is to be found, it is sufficiently long for grazing. This valley, doubtless on account of its altitude, is a cold one. In consequence of some of our mules straying away, which, however, were found, we did not get off till 20 minutes after 6. Our Go-shoot friends were in camp é again just before starting, and were a little impudent, so much, so as to cause me to give some significant evidences of displeasure. Our course lay west of north for about 3 miles, when we turned up a ravine south of west, along a rapid mountain-stream (Spring Creek), which we followed for 3.5 miles, when we left it, and continuing up a branch ravine, in 2 miles, by a good wagon-road grade, attained the summit of the Un-go-we- ah.range (7,530 feet above the sea), whence could be seen lying immediately to the west of us Steptoe Valley. Descending the west slope of the mountain, which is some- what steep, about 2 miles more, along a pure, mountain-gushing stream, which I call after Lieutenant Marmaduke, of the Seventh Infantry, brought us to the mail-station on the east side of Steptoe Valley, in the vicinity of which we encamped after a jour- ney of 11.1 miles among good grass, water, and fuel. The road crossed the stream, which I call Spring Creek, on the east Sop of the range, several times. These crossings, which are short, boggy pitches, the mail ecom- pany has not properly fixed, and the consequence was we were detained two hours by _ the breaking up of a tongue. This stream is 4 feet wide and 1 foot deep, and there is an abundance of grass in the ravine all along, from about 1.5 miles above its entrance into Spring Valley. It therefore furnishes a better camping place than Spring Val- ley. Gooseberry bushes grow along the creek, and cedars abound on the side-hill, and cedars, pines, and what the Mormons call mountain mahogany in the pass. This tree (the Cercocarpus ledifolius) grows generally at the summit of the passes. It is somewhat scrubby in appearance, ramifying in several branches from the ground, and in form resembles the apple-tree. Its greatest height is about 20 feet, and the agere- gate breadth of its branches 20 feet. Its wood is very hard, and is used for cogs, jour- nals, ¢ gudgeons, &c. A minute description-of it by Dr. Engelmann will be feat in = pendix M In this ravine we met a ra of men belonging to the mail-station where we 8BU 58 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. are encamped, one of them named Lott Huntingdon, who says he has charge of the mail company’s operations from Pleasant Valley to the Humboldt River. They were in search of mules, which they reported as having been run off by the Indians last night. They were sure of it because they had tracked them. Fortunately we had fallen in with the mules, and they had joined our herd. It was also in this ravine where I saw a deserted wick-e-up, in which Mr. Lee found a charred human skull— whether the result of cannibalism, sacrifice, or accident, we do not know. The ravine in which we are encamped is also well grassed, and there. are others of the same character in the vicinity. _ The Un-go-we-ah Mountain-range, which we have just crossed, is composed of porphyritic rocks and altered stratified rocks (quartzite, slaty rocks, and micopys lime- stones), heaved up to the summit. Called at the mail-station. I find the mail company’s road-party, consisting of eight men, have worked the road no farther than this camp. From this point onward we will have to open the road ourselves. They report a stream in the bottom of Steptoe Valley, six miles distant, which we will have to cross, and cannot do without bridging. Breadth 25 feet. They have been hauling logs to the spot for the purpose, and have nearly all that will be required. They promise to haul the remainder to-morrow, so as to enable us to build the page The mail accommodations at this station are a shed and tent. May 13, Camp No. 11, east slope of Steptoe Valley—Altitude above the sea, 6,600 feet. Last evening it commenced blowing very hard, and this morning we have a cold, driving snow-storm from the east. Thermometer, at 5.45 a. m., 34°.25. Lieu- tenant Murry and myself left, with a small party of soldiers and teamsters, to make the bridge in Steptoe Valley, referred to yesterday, the balance remaining in camp. By noon the bridge was finished except a few logs, which the mail company promised to haul and put on. Lieutenant Murry deserves credit for his energy in this work. It snowed and rained at times during the day, till in the afternoon the clouds broke away, and the sun came out bright. The wind was high all day. . Mr. Huntingdon has been in this region during the past winter, and says there were six feet of snow in the upper portion of the cafion, in which the mail-station is, and two feet at the station. The mail party also inform us that Mr. Egan, the princi- pal agent of Chorpenning & Company, tried twice to get south from Ruby Valley, toward Genoa, in Carson Valley, but was once defeated by the snow, and once busi- ness in Salt Lake City diverted him. It is from this point, near the southern extremity of Ruby Valley, Hasting’s Pass, where we reach it, that I contemplate striking off southwestwardly from the route we are following, and shall attempt to get through with our wagons to Genoa in that direction. The mail from Camp Floyd passed this afternoon, on mule-back, to California, and the carrier reported two stages at Pleasant Valley Sitti just through from Salt Lake City. - : May 14, Camp No. 11, east slope of Steptoe Valley—Weather still cold. _Ther- - -mometer, at 5 a. m., 28°.25. The animals have been in good grass at this camp, and have “oa gabe a the day’s halt. Moved at 5.30 o'clock. Course westwardly, REPORT AND JOURNAL. 59 directly across Steptoe Valley to Egan Cafion. This valley, trending about north and south, is bound by the Un-go-we-ah Mountains on the east, and the Montim* Moun- tains on the west, and is open at either end as far as the eye can reach. Its breadth is about twelve miles, and, like all the wide valleys we have crossed, is flatly concave in cross-sections. At the benches the soil is gravelly. In the bottom it is areno-cal- careo-argillaceous, and on the west side of the valley, in wet weather, must bog a great deal. Greasewood is the characteristic; ordinary height, 3 to 4 feet. (See minute description of this shrub by Dr. Engelmann, in Appendix M). Along the axis of the valley a stream runs northwardly, which, at the present time, is twenty-five to fifty feet wide; bottom miry; depth, in places, three feet; current moderate. It is said to dry up in the summer. Curlew, ducks, and other aquatic birds frequent it, There is a considerable margin of salt grass along it, which would be poisonous to animals, though the water does not taste alkaline. ‘This is a poor, arid valley, perfectly useless for cultivation where we cross it; but farther south, where I crossed it on my return, as my report will show, there is a great deal of good, available pastural and cultivable soil. Altitude above the sea, 5,816 feet. Small streams, however, of pure water course down from the mountains and sink generally before reaching the middle of the valley; and on the mountain-sides and in the ravines is to be found a great deal of grass. On account of the marshy approach to the bridge we constructed yesterday over this creek, we were detained three-quarters of an hour. Several of the wagons were taken over by hand. At noon, 6.8 miles from bridge, we reached the mouth of Egan Cafion, down which a fine, rapid stream runs, and on which we encamp. Grass on the side of the mountain. Journey 13.3 miles. Road good to the bridge; and from there, a part of the way, the soil is light and porous, and cuts up easily. After reach ing camp-ground, I examined, with Lieutenant Murry, Egan.Cation, which had been reported as requiring considerable work to enable the wagons to pass, but find little will be necessary. We have had to-day with us, from Steptoe Valley, one of the mail company’s men, who joined us at my request and by direction of Mr. Egan. This afternoon the astronomical transit was set up for observations of the transit of the moon and moon-culminating stars. We were successful in the evening with our observations. Also observed as usual for time (or longitude) and latitude. Also took four sets of lunar observations for longitude with sextants and artificial horizons, two sets being on each side of the moon. Lieutenant Smith observed for double altitudes of the stars; Lieutenant Putnam, for double altitude of the moon; and I, for lunar dis- tances, Mr. Lee noting audibly the time. The observations, being simultaneous, are re- garded as quite satisfactory. I would ask, ‘Are you all ready?” Ifso, each would reply, “Ready!” I would then say, “Count!” While Mr. Lee was counting, Lieutenant Smith would be keeping up the superposition of the reflected and direct image of the star in the artificial horizon; Lieutenant Putnam, the tangential contact of the reflected and direct image of the bright limb of the moon, also in an artificial horizon; and I, the tangency of the star and bright limb of the moon directly. At the proper instant, I would call out the time, and if the other observers would respond, “All right!” to * The meaning of this word I have not Le2n able to ascertain. 60 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH, my query, the angles of time were recorded. We got through at midnight. Also, determined the magnetic variation at this camp, by observations on Polaris. The survey of the day is plotted after getting into camp, and thus, as we proceed, we have daily a correct view of our position. All of our notes, astronomical and -barometerical and itinerary, are also perfected. The four chronometers are also daily, at the same hour, compared, and a record kept of the daily difference of each with the large box-chronometer. Find longitude of this camp (No. 12) to be 114° 58’ 15”; latitude, 39° 51’ 46”; altitude, 5,986 feet; magnetic variation, 16° 47’ EK, The dews in this region are scarcely perceptible, and my flannel, I notice, is generally highly charged with electricity. sf May 15, Camp No. 12, mouth of figan Carion.—FExtremely cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 26°. Air pure, sun bright, and the wind ‘strong from the west. Moved at quarter to 6. The pioneer party went ahead, in order to prepare the road. Our course is westward, up Egan Cafion, by an easy ascent, to Round Valley, about 2.5 miles, thence six miles across Round Valley, and by a ravine which required some work, to the summit of the Montim range (elevation above the sea, 7,135 feet) and thence 9.5 miles across Butte Valley, to the vicinity of a small well on the west side of the valley. : Egan Cation we found quite narrow, and somewhat remarkable on account of the rocks which wall it in on either side. These rocks are tremendously massive, and rise sheer to a height in one place of about 1,000 feet. They are a compact quartz granite, of a grayish color, which becomes embrowned by exposure, and is intermingled with altered slate. Small veins of pure white quartz are seen traversing it very conspicu- ously. The general character of the range (Montim) is granitic at the base in some places, but mostly tilted and highly-altered stratified rocks, quartzite, slates, &e. Higher up, siliceous limestones, and, on the west side, porphyritic rocks. The ravines and heights abound with cedar, and thick artemisia characterizes the valleys. Just after crossing Round Valley we passed through a sort of cedar and sage-brush fence, which must have been about .75 of a mile long, and put up by the Indians. Its pur- pose, doubtless, was to catch rabbits by the suspension upon it of a net, in the mode explained before, and their attempting to run through it. __ The Montim Range, between Steptoe and Butte Valley, is the boundary between the Go-shoot and Sho-sho-nee tribes of Indians; the latter ranging to the west of the line, : Round Valley, which is about 4 miles wide and 16 miles long, abounds in grass, Butte Valley ranges north and south, and at the north appears to be uninterrupted except by low hills; at the south it is closed in by a cross-range some 30 miles off. It is about 8 miles wide, and takes its name. from the buttes or table-hills in it. Soil of the usual yellowish color, and of a dry argillo-arenaceous character, good for nothing but to sustain the artemisia. (Altitude above the sea, 6,148 feet). The range of mount- ains limiting it on its west side are low, and, though covered with cedar, present but little indications of water. Those at the south end, from their height and snow, give _ better indications. The Humboldt range has appeared ahead of us to-day, looming up above'the range limiting Butte Valley on the west, and is covered with snow. It REPORT AND JOURNAL. 61 is the most imposing range I have seen since leaving the Wahsatch Mountains, and is to be seen stretching far to the northward. Our day’s travel has been 18.1 miles, and, as it was quite warm in the afternoon, we found it very fatiguing crossing Butte Valley. Road generally good. Met five Sho-sho-nees on the road, clothed in rabbit-skins, like the Go-shoots, but all had leg- eings. We are encamped at the foot of a dark brown, isolated, porphyritic rock, near the summit of which is a small dug well, 10 feet deep and 2 feet wide. The water in this well can only get here on the principle of the siphon bringing it from some distant source. At present it is only 24 feet deep in the well, and is barely sufficient for culinary purposes. The grass is about 1.5 miles to the northeast of the spring, on the side of the hill, and does not appear abundant. The dearth of water on the route to-day makes it important, if for no other reason, that the route should be changed farther to the south. (Subsequent to this date, in the summer, this point had to be abandoned by the mail company as a station on account of the well drying up. I have learned, however, that they have since found water in the vicinity, probably about 2 miles to the southeast, where a Sho-sho-nee told us there was water.) The mail company has three traveling agents between Salt Lake City and the Humboldt River—Howard Egan, superintending agent; Ball Robert, district agent between Salt Lake City and Pleasant Valley; and Lott Huntingdon, the agent for the district between Pleasant Valley and the Humboldt. Thén they have an agent called station agent, and from three to seven persons at each station, one being the mail-car- rier. The number of mules varies at these stations from 8 to 15. The mail during this winter was carried on a pack-mule, which was sometimes led and sometimes driven. . The required rate of travel (which was accomplished) was 60 miles in every twenty- four hours, changing every 20 to 30 miles. ‘The superintending agent is said to get from $200 to $250 per month, the district agent $100, the station agent from $50 to $75, and the hands from $25 to $50, according to worth. : One of the mail company informs me that along the route from this station to the Humboldt they had last winter to subsist themselves on mule and coyote (wolf) meat. Their stock was transferred from the old road so late last fall as to have caused the death of one man, who died from cold on his last trip over the Goose Creek Mountains, and they. were consequently ill supplied with provisions on the new route. During the winter the stock had a little grain, but subsisted principally on grass. The snow on the divide between Butte and Steptoe Valleys was from 2 to 4 feet deep; in some . places in the mountains as much as 10 feet; in Butte Valley about 18 inches. It is reported by some of the mail company that there is a cave, about three days’ travel to the south of Steptoe Valley, into which persons have traveled a mile; some say as many as 3 miles, when they came to a precipice which prevented their going farther. They rolled rocks down, and the lapse of time. before striking the bottom showed the depth to have been very great. There is said to be a number of rooms, sn one of which is a beautiful spring. It was found by some persons who came from Fillmore City and traveled west. The location of the cave is not given, however, with any precision, and it is not in my power, for want of time, to certify, myself, to the truth of the report. (I may as well say here, however, that on our return route, 62 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. which was 25 or 30 miles to the south of this, although we saw some small caves, we saw none of the extent described.) | May 16, Camp No. 13, west slope of Butte Valley—Altitude 6,523 feet. First mild morning we have had. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 32°. Moved at 20 minutes of 6. Course continues a little north of west. In 2 miles reach summit of divide between - Butte and Long Valleys (altitude above the sea 6,670 feet), by a very gradual ascent, and 2.5 miles more, by an easy descent, reach Long Valley. his valley, which lies, like those we have crossed, from south to north, is shut in by a pretty high mountain at its north end, from 10 to 15 miles off, showing passes in that quarter; and the south end appears closed, some 25 or 30 miles off, by a cross-range, also exhibiting passes through it. Elevation above the sea, 6,195 feet. Crossing this dry valley, which is 2.7 miles wide, 3.1 miles more up a tolerable grade brings you to the summit of a low range, running north and south, dividing Long from Ruby Valley, about one mile below which, on the west slope, we encamp, at a spring just discovered by Lott Huntingdon, of the mail party, and which therefore I have called after him. It is a good camping-place, and grass and fuel are convenient. Journey to-day, 12 miles. Road good. Siliceous limestones were seen in the range dividing Butte and Long Valleys; and in the range bordering this last valley, on its east and west sides, are light-yellowish, earthy limestones, full of fossils of the Carboniferous range; also compact light-gray limestone, some siliceous and slaty rocks, &e. Igneous rocks, of a basaltic appearance (brown porphyry), are found near the limestones in the vicinity of Huntingdon Spring. Soil of valleys accordingly. Cedar and pine characterize the Sylva of the mountains, and the Artemisia tridentata, or wild sage, a certain index of sterility, the valleys. The latter has impeded our wagons a great deal to-day, and has been seen almost everywhere from Fort Laramie as far as we have come, and was afterward found to characterize the country even to the east foot of the Sierra Nevada. A high snow-mountain has appeared some 30 miles off to the south of us, which will doubtless be of service in furnishing water on our return trip in that quarter. Several antelope have been seen for the first time since we left Camp Floyd. About an hour after we went into camp the guide and party came in. It will be recollected that he parted-from us at Pleasant Valley, Camp No. 8, May 40.°° He ‘reports that in consequence of his getting out of provisions, and the Indian he had picked up as guide knowing nothing of the country farther west, he struck north for’ our trail, and met it at the bridge in Steptoe Valley. Thence he followed our track. He represents that he has found a route generally parallel to the one we are on, and some 30 miles to the south, which is practicable for wagons, and furnishes water and grass at intervals of 15 to 20 miles. Indeed, a good portion of the way is an old wagon-road, which, according to Lott Huntingdon, was used by a party of ' emigrants who attempted to make their way from Fillmore to California and perished. _(On our return trip, however, we got on this road, and were told by the Indians that it had been made by the Mormons the spring previous, and was, without question, _ that which they made when they fled before the approach of the troops, and when it _ was reported they had gone to Silver Mountains.) | REPORT AND JOURNAL. 63 Got a number of the Sho-sho-nee words through Ute Pete from a Sho-sho-nee, by name Tar-a-ke-gan. It is to be regretted that the necessity of sending Pete always with the guide, so as to enable him to get information from the Indians in rela- tion to the country south of us, makes it impossible for me to have that converse with the Indians I meet which I would like in order to obtain a knowledge of their man- ners, customs, &c. But to get a good wagon-road, if possible, to the south of us, is of the first importance, and therefore the guide cannot dispense with his services. Besides, though young, he is a capital voyageur, and well acquainted with signs of water, grass, &c.; and already in this respect the chief guide has found him invalua- ble. I can never forget the kindness of Dr. Hurt in recommending him to me. May 17, Camp No. 14, Huntingdon’s Spring, east slope of Ruby Valley.—Altitude above the sea, 7,190 feet. The guide leaves us again this morning with a Sho-sho-nee Indian, Tar-a-ke-gan, to go south, and continue his examination of the country south and west, and will join us at our first camp after leaving Ruby Valley. Pete and two others of the party accompany him. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 44°. Move at quarter to 6, and, shortly after attaining summit of Too-muntz range (7,283 feet above the sea,) pass down a cation, which I call Murry’s Cajon, after Lieut. Alexander Murry, the commanding officer of the escort. The rocks are more calcareous and slaty than those we passed yesterday, and are of yellowish color. Some little work done in the cation, to allow the wagons to get along. In 3.9 miles we reach the mouth of the cafion, and immediately cross Ruby Valley, requiring 5.3 miles more of travel to mail-station in the valley, where we encamp at 9.30 a.m. Journey, 9.2 miles. Road good. — s At our camp is a spring which sends out a small stream of pure water, flowing along the valley northwardly. Ruby Valley is well supplied farther north with streams from the Humboldt Mountains, which limit it on its west side; and some 25 or 30 miles north of us, in the valley, is said to be a large lake, which doubtless is Beckwith’s Lake Franklin. This valley, like all those we have crossed, has a dirty-yellowish, forbidding ap- arance; is covered with artemisia, and very level, and has a thirsty appearance, though doubtless farther north it is more inviting. It is said to extend north as far as the Humboldt River, a distance of 60 to 70 miles, and has a great deal of cultivable soil in that direction, which is capable of irrigation. At the south, about 10 miles from our ¢amp, it is hemmed in by the mountains, which close in from the east and west sides, showing, however, a pass through to the valley lying to the south. The breadth of the valley where we cross it is about 9 miles. : Mr. Jarvis, the Indian agent, has commenced, I am informed, an Indian farm in this valley, about 40 miles to the north of our camp, for the Sho-sho-nees. An abun- dance of grass, water, cedar, and pine is found in the mountains on either side of the valley, particularly in the Humboldt range skirting it on the west, and it is repre- sented as being quite a warm valley. The snow last winter is represented as not having been more than one-half foot deep in it. In Hasting’s Pass, which leads through the Humboldt rangé into the valley of the south fork of the Humboldt, the snow was 4 feet deep. 64 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Large numbers of Sho-sho-nees winter in Ruby Valley, on account of its being warmer than the other valleys around. One of the mail party represents that as many as 1,500 must have staid here last winter. At the present time they. are scattered, for purposes of hunting. They are a fine-looking tribe of Indians, and all those I have seen have good countenances. They have generally nothing but the brush-barrier or inclosed fence, summer and winter, like the Go-shoots, to protect them from the weather, though some of them erect pole-lodges. Mr. Huntingdon thinks that one- third of them carry guns; the rest carry the bow and quiver. They have committed no depredations lately, though last year they attempted to steal some horses from some emigrants. | : 2 A great deal of game, such as antelope and aquatic fowl, is said to abound in this - region, and deer and mountain-sheep are also seen. Ruby Valley takes its name from the circumstance, so I am informed, of rubies having been picked up in it on the west side, a few miles north of the mail-station. However this may be, it is very certain we could not find any, and the probabilities are that it is no more a ruby valley than the others we have crossed. The mail-station at this point is at present a mere shed. Pine-log houses are at present being put up. -The Humboldt Mountains, white with snow, have for the last two days been seen at times, and have looked grand and massive. Their Indian name is 'Tac-a-roy, mean- ing snow-mountains.. They are certainly the most formidable mountains we have seen since we left Camp Floyd, and are composed of siliceous limestones, quartzite, coarse sandstones, &c. : May 18, Camp No. 15, Ruby Valley—Altitude, 5,953 feet. The mules ran against the cords of the barometer-tent early this morning and prostrated it, carrying with it the two barometer, swhich were suspended from the tripod. Fortunately, only one was affected by the accident, a little air getting into the tube, which can be easily remedied. | ; ; Thermometer at 4.45 a. m., 38°. Moved at 54 o’clock. Struck immediately for Hasting’s Pass, lying southwest from mail-station, the foot of which we reach in 2.5 miles, and the summit by a remarkably easy ascent in 3.3 miles more. This pass leads through the Humboldt range from Ruby Valley into the valley of the South Fork of the Humboldt, which some call Huntingdon’s Creek. For the first “time we in this pass get into Beckwith’s, here coincident with Hasting’s, road, both of which at the present time are very indistinct. Descending from the summit, by the finest kind of grade, in about 4 miles we leave Beckwith’s and Hasting’s roads, which go, the former northwestwardly to join the old road along the Humboldt, 10 miles above Lassen’s Meadows, the latter northwardly to join the same road at the mouth of the South Fork of the Humboldt; while we strike southwestwardly, over an unknown country, toward the most northern bend of Walker’s River, my object being to cut off the great detour which the other roads make in going all around by the Humboldt River and sink, to reach Genoa in Carson Valley. We also now leave Chorpenning’s or Mail Company’s _ extension of my route from Hasting’s Pass, it also turning northward, and joining the old road near Gravelly F ord, which they follow by way of the sink of the Humboldt _ and Ragtown, on Carson River, to Genoa. Frémont, I notice by the Topographical REPORT AND JOURNAL. 65 Bureau map, has traveled over a portion of the country to the southwest of us, but as he has never submitted a detailed report of this reconnaissance, and his track is no longer visible, and it goes too far south for our purposes, his exploration is of no service to us in our progress. From this point, therefore, to where we expect to strike the old road on Carson River, we will have to be guided entirely by the country as it unfolds itself, This Hasting’s Pass, the summit of which is 6,580 feet above the sea, is the finest, on account of its breadth and easy grade, of any we have threaded, except Camp Floyd Pass. The twittering of the birds we found here also more resonant and delightful than in any other locality. There is a bird in the mountains a little larger than the jay, and of a deeper blue color, that utters an impudent screaming note, and seems to become particularly saucy in proportion as we approach it. It is, however, quite wild, and it is difficult to approach near enough to shoot it. It was in this pass that Messrs. Duncan and Lufkin overtook us on their way from Salt Lake City to Genoa. They had left the city two weeks previously, and Mr. Duncan, who has traveled the old route by the City of Rocks, says he thinks the one he is now on is the best. They follow from this point the mail-route, toward the main Humboldt. I was much pleased with the little two-horse wagon they had with them, It was very light, and was hung at the middle on two springs, placed longitud- inally; and they say they have carried 1,000 pounds in it over the Sierra Nevada. I should think it a capital wagon for rapid traveling over the plains. It was built at Concord, N. H. | After reaching the west foot of Hasting’s Pass, in the valley of the South Fork of the Humboldt, we struck for a pass in the next western range, which we could see lying to the southwest of us, about 9 miles off, and which looked favorable for admis- sion into the next valley. In 4 miles we struck the South Fork of the Humboldt, arapid stream, stony bottom, 6 feet wide, 4 foot deep, course northwardly. We follow up this creek for about a mile, and then leaving it, in about 2 miles, come to a small mountain-stream flowing over a stony bottom, where we encamp at 1 o'clock. Grass along the stream, and plenty higher up on the slopes of the mountains. Sage plentiful. Journey 17.6 miles. Road good, though the high sage-brush, as usual, impeded us a little. ‘This our heavy train, however, breaks down, and makes a very passable road for those who may follow us. — | The valley of the South Fork of the Humboldt, which takes its rise near and to the northwest of our camp, is a very open one, both north and south; a slight rise some 15 miles off toward its south end, showing a rim in that direction. Its soil is a yellowish areno-argillaceous earth, which is capable, to a limited extent, of being irrigated by the stream running through it. As usual the artemisia covers the valley, and in this locality is quite rank in growth. Altitude of valley above the sea 5,640 feet. ne A. Sho-sho-nee Indian and his squaw, with her child strapped on her back, followed us to camp. Both seem kind-hearted and have good countenances. The child is a perfect picture of a fat, well-conditioned boy, and has a very pleasing e xpression of countenance. He is perfectly naked, and around his neck has several strings of — 9BU : a ee 66 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. wampum. ‘The squaw is naked from her head to her loins, and is not in the slightest disconcerted by the gaze of spectators. Mr. Reese, the guide, came into camp this evening, and reports plenty of water and grass, and a good country for a road parallel to our route, and south of us from the point he visited south of Camp 14 to the valley we are now in, but sees no way of getting through the range of mountains lying west of us, except by the pass near us, which we are aiming at. If so, the contemplated southern parallel route would be at this point too far north, and we should not gain in distance over the route we have come. I trust, however, we will yet find that we can continue our more southern route westwardly without deviating so much from the proper direction. I think I can see indications of a pass which will make the thing practicable. This proved to be the fact on our return. =~ We have had thunder and some little lightning this afternoon and evening, but only a few drops of rain. } ) May 19, Camp No. 16, Valley of South Fork of the Humboldt—Altitude above the sea, 6,028 feet. Thermometer at 4.30 a. m., 38°.25. Morning bright and pleasant. Raised camp at 25 minutes of 6, and directed our course west of south to pass of the mountain-range directly west of us. In 2 miles cross asmall rapid mountain-rill. These streams may not run in the summer and fall, but their sources, which are springs at the base of the mountains, are doubtless perennial. Wild parsnips, said to be poisonous to man and beast, abound here. Grease, or whisky and gunpowder, are said to be the antidote. Pass places where the Indians have dammed up the rills to cause them to flood the habitations or holes of badgers, gophers, rats, &c., and thus they secure them for their flesh and skins. In two more miles we commence ascending the pass, which on the east side is quite steep, all the teams doubling but the leading one, and ropes being used to keep the wagons from upsetting. Some side-hill cutting done; train detained 24 hours on that account. A road, however, of good grade can be made up the pass; (and since we traveled over it I have been informed that the mail company, which has transposed its stock on my route from Ruby Valley, has made a road here.) Probably south side of pass will furnish best grade. Altitude of summit of pass above the sea, 7,300 feet. From this summit we obtain a most extensive view of distant mountains. Toward the east may be seen four distinct ranges, some of them covered with snow. These are the ranges we have been crossing for several days back. ‘Toward the west, bound- ing a valley running. north and south, and over which lies our course, may be seen a range, and back of it one or two more; the highest covered with snow. The valley referred to is quite white toward the north with a saline efflorescence, and bearing about due west and lying in it isa small lake, into which apparently runs a good-sized stream. I visited a high promontory near the pass to reconnoiter for a pass through the next range lying immediately to our west. Determined to try the one bearing mag- _ netically S. 40° W. as being the most favorable in direction. There is another bear- _ ing directly west, but it would be too far to the north. Directed guide to proceed to _ the pass in advance, and send back, first, a report about grass and water, at east foot REPORT AND JOURNAL. 67 of the pass for to-morrow’s camp; and, subsequently, another in respect to the practi- cability of the pass. My plan has been to keep the guide well in advance, and to have him send or bring back reports from time to time, so as to have as little detention as possible, and get the best route. Descending from pass by an easy grade down the west slope of the range, albeit in places slightly sidling, in 3 miles and at quarter to 1 p. m., encamped in splendid _ and abundant grass, near the small stream which comes down the pass. Day’s travel 7.1 miles; road good except at points as stated, and which can be remedied. Several Sho-sho-nees joined us on our route. One of them amused the party very much by his awkward attempts to mount a mule, and, when he got on, his rabbit-skin dress frightened the animal so much as to cause him to run off with his nondescript load, much to the merriment of the men. They wear their skin capes summer and winter, and on such a hot day as this I should suppose the warmth of it would be insupportable. I notice that before they venture to join us they take a good look at us from distant prominent points. The merry sound of the blacksmith’s anvil and forge, and the hammer of the wheel- wright, after we got into camp, reminds me constantly of the very efficient manner, thanks to Geneial Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, in which I have been fitted out by the Quartermaster’s Department. The army wagons are, however, of such superior character as very seldom to require repairs. On the march of the Utah forces from Fort Leavenworth these wagons were the admiration of every one, so strongly were they made, and so suitable in weight and capacity. I doubt if any army in any country can show anything superior. The portable forge, however, of which no expedition like ours should be destitute, we found indispensable for the prep- aration of the shoes for the animals, and other purposes. Among the Sho-sho-nees who have visited our camp is Cho-kup, the chief of the Humboldt River band of the Sho-sho-nees. It is to be regretted, as I have before remarked, that I am obliged to let Indian Pete, the interpreter, go with my guide ahead, in order to talk with the Indians they may meet. I am thus deprived of the advantages of the information I might otherwise obtain from this chief respecting his tribe. I have had a sketch of him taken. He is a very respectful, intelligent, well- behaved Indian, and seems to have gained the approbation of the California Mail Company. In age I should suppose he was about thirty-five years. He is dressed in buckskin pants, a check under, and a woolen over shirt; has a handkerchief tied around his neck, wears shoes, and has a yellowish felt hat. His air is that of a man who, while knowing his own powers, is capable of scanning those of others. He showed me a letter of Mr. Chorpenning, recommending him as a good Indian, &c. This, together with my intercourse with him, has induced me, from motives of policy as well as justice, to give him the following paper: ; “Camp No. 17, Cuo-Kup’s Pass, ‘¢ May 19, 1859. “To all whom it may concern: : «This is to inform persons that the bearer of this paper is Cho-kup, chief of the Sho-sho-nees south of the Humboldt River, and as he is represented, and from my inter- 68 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. course with him, I believe him, to be a friend of the white man, and a good, respect- able, and well-behaved Indian, I bespeak for him and his people the kind treatment at the hands of the travelers through their country that their recent good conduct — entitle them to, and which, if they eontinue to receive, will insure all who may pass through their country safety to their persons and property. , “J. H. Sovpson, ‘Captain Topographical Engineers.” I have made it a point to treat the Indians I meet kindly, making them small presents, which I trust will not be without their use in securing their friendly feel- ing and conduct. A great many of the difficulties our country has had with the Indians, according to my observation and experience, have grown out of the bad treatment they have received at the hands of insolent and cowardly men, who, not gifted with the bravery which is perfectly consistent with a kind and generous heart, have, when they thought they could do it with impunity, maltreated them; the conse- quence resulting that the very next body of whites they have met have not unfre- quently been made to suffer the penalties which in this way they are almost always sure to inflict indiscriminately on parties, whether they deserve it or not. The mountain range which we have just crossed, and near the foot of which we are encamped, is called the We-a-bah Mountains, or the mountains, as Ute Pete says, of the fluttering or night bird. It is composed of sandstones, siliceous conglomerates, and, distant from the road, of bluish-gray limestone. The general name for mountain, among the Sho-sho-nees, seems to be Toy-ap. The pass we have come through I call after the chief, Cho-kup’s Pass. May 20, Camp No. 17, west slope of Cho-kup’s Pass.—Altitude above the sea, 6,018 feet. The dragoon I sent out with the guide returned last night at 10 o'clock, ind reports water and grass 15 miles off, in the eolstiai of pass, vet the next range, ahead. Thermometer at 4.30 a.m., 38°.75. Moved at 5.30 o’clock. In 1 mile reach foot of pass in Pah-hun-nupe, or Water Valley. This valley apparently closed at south end, say 25 miles off; at north end, some 30 miles off; low passes apparently at either end. The indications are that this valley can be passed through over to a more southern, southeastern, or southwestern valley by practicable passes, a fact of significance on our return route. Sand-hill cranes, curlew, and other marsh birds abound in the valley, and antelope are.seen in the distance. Six and eight-tenths miles farther brings us to a large spring, in marsh, where we water. Plenty of grass about it, though not of best quality. This valley is in some portions argillaceous and in some arenaceous. The latter glitter with small crystals of quartz, of very pure character, which we amuse ourselves in picking up, and facetiously call California diamonds. The appel- lation, doubtless, as veritable as the epithet of ruby, which seems to belong to the precious stones said to have been found in Ruby Valley. A great deal of alkaline marsh, and water in small lakes, north of route. Altitude of valley above the sea, 5,660 feet. 2 _ In 5.6 miles more reach a large spring on west side of valley, at foot of mountain ae ng , where we encamp in pure salt grass, which the animals eat with avidity. eee Iti is, daa held not abundant. Bunch-grass can be found in cation back of camp. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 69 Road to-day good, though it might cut up early in the spring. Higher ground, how- ever, exists below or south of the road, over which, in this case, the wagons could travel. Day’s travel, 13.3 miles. The damaged barometer cleaned and refitted with fresh mercury by Mr. Engel- mann. At sunset ascended high peak, back or west of camp, to view the pass we have been aiming at. It looks favorable. From this peak had a most magnificent view of the mountains in every quarter of the horizon—the Humboldt range, to the east of north, showing its white snowy summits far above the intervening ones. These distant views have, at least on my mind, a decidedly moral and religious effect ; and I cannot but believe that they are not less productive of emotions of value in this respect than they are of use in accustoming the mind to large conceptions, and thus giving it power and capacity. The mysterious property of nature to develop the whole man, including the mind, soul, and body, is a subject which I think has not received the attention from philosophers which its importance demands; and though Professor Arnold Guyot, of Princeton, has written a most capital work on the theme, “Barth and Man”, yet a greatedeal remains to be done to bring the matter to the profit of the world at large, which, it seems to me, a wise and beneficent Greator has ordained should be gathered from the contemplation and proper use of his works. , But then the question arises, Do we rise from the contemplation of nature to nature’s God, and therefore to a realization of the amplitude and reach to which our minds are capable, by our own unaided spirit; or is it by the superinduced Spirit of the Almighty Himself, which we have received, it may be, on account of His only Son? But thése speculations may be considered as foreign to the necessary rigor of an official report; and I, therefore, will indulge in them no further than to say that, according to my notions, the latter I believe to be the true theory.* * T must confess that in all the works of Baron Humboldt with which I am conversant, I have never seen any- thing to indicate that he ever arose in his conceptions of nature to the ultimate idea which, to my mind, they are and from the contrast we draw between the narrow limits of our own existence and the image of infinity revealed on ide, whether we look upward to the starry vault of heaven, scan the far-stretching plain before us, or seek to trace the dim horizon across the vast expanse of ocean.” Now, here, connection with the order and harmony of the universe, but he sees or acknowledges nothing of an Infinite Mind, which ‘has ereated and still upholds all things, and seems to be utterly unconscious of that moral and spiritual microcosm, whi to some persons is mirrored in their souls when they contemplate nature in her grandest and most beautiful forms. Indeed, to my mind, his application ‘of the word Cosmos to “ the universal all,” (To Ilav,) and yet non-recognition of Him “in whom we live and move and have our being,” and “ by whom the world aud all things therein were made,” is as sensible as it would be for a physician to talk of the faculties and functions of the human body, and yet ignore entirely the sentient, reasoning soul, the seat of its life and the controller of its actions. | Jan 29, 1861.—Since writing the foregoing, I have read Professor Guyot’s interesting address of February 16, 1860, to the American Geographical and Statistical Society, on Carl Ritter, the world- renowned author, as he terms him, of the classical “Erdkunde, &c., or the science of the globe in its relations to nature and to the his tory of mankind.’ From this address I learn that the crowning excellence of this great physicist was his Christian belief and character, through which he was enabled to see nature purely and describe her graciously as the work of an all-wise and benevo- lent Creator, who has so harmonized all things, both in the world of matte and spirit, as by their beantiful adaptation, A | a@uu 1th of th The spirit in Which Ritter studied nature i lace at . r) portrait presented to him by the students of the University of Berlin, through a committee, of which Mr. Guyot was one, 70 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. On descending to camp, found Pete had come in from the guide’s party, and he reports all right ahead for 18 miles, to a point where there is grass and water, and where I expect to camp to-morrow. It seems the guide took a pass a little to the north of the one I saw from the high promontory of Cho-kup’s Pass yesterday; but Pete, in returning to camp, went through the one I referred to, and found it not only more direct but easier. Our observations place this camp (No. 18) in longitude 115° 56’ 52”, latitude 39° 49’ 43”. May 21, Camp No. 18, west side of Pah-hun-nupe Valley—Elevation above the sea, 5,692 feet. Morning bright. Thermometer at 45 o’clock a. m., 32°. Raised camp at 5.25 a.m. Keep up the Pah-hun-nupe Valley, or south, two miles; then turn to the right up toward the pass of west range bounding the valley; two miles more commence ascending pass. Notice a couple of bush-fences or barriers converging to a narrow pass, and a large hole in this last portion. Pete says they are to guide deer near the hole, in which the Indian hides himself, and shoots them as they pass with bow and arrows at night, a fire being used as a lure. Notice a plant of small leaf, and taste of the turnip. In five miles more, by a very gradual ascent, reach second highest as follows: “Our earth is a star among the stars ; and should not we, who are on it, prepare ourselves by it for the con- templation of the universe and its Author ?” Professor Guyot, in speaking of the special peculiarities of Ritter and Humboldt, in his address, discourses as follows: “The picture that I have just attempted of Ritter’s ideas, method, and labors sufficiently defines, if I err not, the part performed in geographical science by that faithful and gifted scholar, from that achieved by Humboldt. Humboldt seeks to determine the general laws of the physical world. Ritter seizes them as applied,and in their concrete and actual connection in every given country and in the whole globe, and considers nature in its totality as an element in the development of mankind, from which alone these natural forms and influences receive their true and final signifi- cance. “At the moment these faithfal guides leave us to ourselves, when their voice will utter no more words of wisdom, it may be well for us to ask ourselves how far they led us in the high-road of science, and what is the task which is still before us. Humboldt, with a surpassing richness of knowledge, attempted to give us a connected picture of the totality of the physical universe ; but admirable as is the Cosmos, after having read its eloquent pages, we pause and involun- tarily ask for the final object of the Creator in building up that marvelous structure; we ask for a tie which connects it with Him, at least that portion of the creationin which we dwell; for a voice which rises from it as a word of praise and we find it not. Far from me even the idea of casting a blame upon the great and good philosopher. I am fully aware that his plan was purposely limited to the material world which is his theme. I only wish to remark that we cannot stop there. “Tt is, indeed, a universal law of all that exists, as I have elsewhere said, not to have in itself either the reason or the entire aim of its existence. Every order of facts, like every individual being, forms but a portion of a greater organization, the plan and idea of which go ir os beyond it, and in which it is destined to play a part. The reason of its existence, therefore, is not in itself, but out of it; not below, but above it. The explanation of the beautiful but sings ag some arrangements of the piivihead globe is to be found not in it, but in the higher moral and intellectual sphere of man, for whom they were made, in order to be there the means of accomplishing a more exalted end than their jirete material existence. The key which opens for us the mysteries of the evolutions of history, is to be ee in that future perfect economy which is its end, and toward which, under God’s guidance, human progress is : g with a steady step. A science of the globe which excludes the spirit World represented by man, is a beauti- fal body without asoul. Ritter, as I trust I have abundantly shown, put a soul into that body. This will make his memory live forever in the grateful remembrance of all lovers of true science. “Let us, therefore, continne in the footsteps of these masters in science. Humboldt farnished the means, Ritter _ marks the goal. Like Humboldt, let us study nature in a truth-loving and devoted spirit, and with combined forces perfect that edifice which he has already reared so high. Like Ritter, let us, with serupulous care and a pure mind, pur- sue in all parts of our earthly domain the investigation of these wondrous harmonies of nature and history of which he bas traced the great outlines. With the lofty ideal which was before his mind, let us try to realize his conception, — still meee — growth sade — all its beauty ; and we reg have a right to look with hope toward a re cosmos, which will be the full and adequate expression of the wisdom and goodness dis- (oes God’s plan of the wintotied and moral creation, which will intinks all the legitimate craving of the haman 3 ledge, and which, by its very utterance, shall be, according to Ritter’s own words, man’s song of praise and of adoration to the divine Anthoro f the universe.” REPORT AND JOURNAL. 71 summit of pass, whence can be seen, to the south and southwest, a low ridge trending apparently northwest and southeast, and, still farther, two other ranges, generally par- allel to the other, and their highest portions covered with snow. Bearing, magnetically, south 5° west, probably some 25 or 30 miles off, is quite a conspicuous peak of one of the more distant ranges. Ever since we left Camp Floyd we have only crossed valleys and mountain-ranges, generally running north and south, to see others lying to the west of us, running in the same direction, and which we have in turn crossed, This system continues to prevail. The pass we have come through, a most excellent one for a wagon-road, the only steep portion being for about 100 yards at the summit. Altitude above the sea, 6,757 feet. Cedar abounds in it and on the adjacent side-hills. Immediately to our north is a conical peak, which, as we found afterward, in our journey westward, continued for days a most notable landmark, and which I call Cooper's Peak, after Adjutant- General Cooper of the Army. In 6 miles from summit, by an easy grade, at a quarter to 1 o'clock, reach the She-o-wi-te, or Willow Creek, where we encamp. ‘The short, steep hill which we passed down just before reaching camp, may be turned at the south by making a short detour. She-o-wi-te Creek, a fine one, 4 feet wide, 1 foot deep, and quite rapid, It sinks about 1 mile below camp. Grass along it and on side-hills. Journey, 14.9 miles. Road good, except short hill referred to, which can be avoided. Passing gen- erally over ridges and benches, the soil has been, in some places, arenaceous, in other, argillo-arenaceous, and, in most, gravelly. ‘The rocks have been granular, crystalline, magnesian limestone of a light-gray color, near Camp No. 18, and, as we advanced, suberystalline compact limestones, altered slates, quartzite, and other highly metamor- phosed rocks have prevailed, indicating the proximity of igneous rocks. The valley in which we are encamped differs from any we have seen. Hereto- fore they have ranged north and south, and averaged a breadth of probably only one- fourth their length. This one, however, has no particular form, and, while branching out laterally in different directions, shows a form as long as it is broad. The Digger Indians that have come into our camp call it Ko-bah, or Face Valley, a very good name. | : There are three of these Indians, who appear to be grandfather, son, and grand- gon. They confirm the names of valleys and mountains as given by Cho-kup. I inquired of them the number of their kind of people. To this I could only get the answer there were very few of them. One of them is an old man of at least sixty years, and he as well as the others represent that they have always lived in this val- iey, and, never having gone far from it, cannot tell us of the water and mountains beyond their limited range. They say they have no chief, though they speak the Sho-sho-nee language; are clothed with the rabbit-skin cape, similar to the Go-shoots, and represent that they wear no leggings, even in the winter. This is scarcely credible, cold as the winter must be in this region, but it seems to be a fact. They are very talkative and lively. Eat rats, lizards, grass-seeds, &e., like the Go-shoots. ‘The guide says he saw them, after throwing the rats in the fire, and thus roasting them, eat them, entrails and all, the children in particular being very fond of the juices, 72 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. which they would lick in with their tongues and push into their mouths with their fingers. The old man represents that a number of his people died last winter from starvation and cold. We found one of the guide’s party here. The guide and another man are still out toward the southwest looking for a pass in that direction. Five of the men within the last two or three days have reported themselves sick. The disease the doctor pronounces a species of intermittent fever. This afternoon, just before sundown, Lieutenant Murry and myself took a stroll up the creek to view a wick-e-up of the Diggers that have visited our camp. It had been reported to be but about from one-eighth to one-fourth of a mile above our camp; but, with all the search we could give for about a mile up, we could see nothing of it. Returning on the other side of the creek, we at last got sight of it, it being only distinguished from the sage-bushes around it by the circular forth given to its development, it being made of these bushes in their still growing state, and some few loose ones thrown in. To our surprise the inmates were gone. This we conceived strange, as they had come into our camp immediately on our arrival, and seemed to be very confident of protection and safety. What makes the matter more strange, it ap- pears that in going off they shot an arrow into one of our beeves, which looks as if they had become offended at something. The wound, however, was but slight, and has done the animal no material damage. May 22, Camp No. 19, She-o-wi-te, or Willow Creek.—Altitude above the sea, 6,414 feet. Thermometer at 7 a.m., 59°. Morning beautiful. Whole command allowed to sleep longer than usual, on account of our laying over to recruit our animals and observe the Sabbath. The guide came in last night about 11 o’clock, having traveled from daylight to that hour. He thinks he must have traveled 60 miles. Reports water to the west of south and also to the southwest of us, and our ability to get through the mountains in that direction. Assistant Surgeon Baily reports three more men on the sick-list with same complaint as already stated. This makes eight of the command unfit for duty. This day’s rest, it is hoped, may be of service to them. Learned this morning the cause of the conduct of the Indians yesterday, in leay- ing so hastily their wick-e-up, and shooting an arrow into one of our beeves. It seems the cook of my mess, as he says, jokingly pointed very significantly to the revolver about his waist, as a means to keep the dirty fellows from hovering, with their uncombed lively hair, over his viands; and the effect was just as he might have expected, an im- mediate scampering of eae and their families from the vicinity, with some considerable hate in their bosoms, which was evinced in their flight by their putting an arrow into. one of our beeves. I regret this act of thoughtlessness on the part of the cook exeeed- ingly, both on account of its giving us a bad name among the Indians whom they may meet, and because it has deprived us of the information I was in hopes of deriving from them. I have given orders to the effect that if the like indiscreet act should be com- - mitted again the perpetrator would be held to a strict account for it, and should be ‘punished to the extent of his crime. As I have before stated, my policy with the Indians has always been one, so far as it could be, of peace and good-will toward them; eae ‘ have never found anything but good resulting from it. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 73 This morning I read service in front of my tent, and was glad to see a num- ber present. This evening, before sundown, I ascended, with Messrs. Jagiello and McCarthy, the high peak to the northeast of our camp, for the purpose of viewing the surrounding country. The peak is probably about 1,500 feet above our camp. After some very considerable exertion, which, immediately after dinner, I found not so very easy, we attained the summit. On every hand could be seen high mountains; to the northeast, some 60 miles off, the Humboldt range; to the east the We-a-bah range we crossed, on the 19th; to the south, some isolated mountains, and to the west several ranges, the most distant ones covered with snow, and ranging apparently north and south. This Kobah Valley is the most extensive one we have seen, and, like the Great Salt Lake Desert, seems once to have been a lake. It seems to be filled with mount- ains, more or less extended, and running in a variety of directions, though generally north and south, and the valley extends around the points of these mountains, and, in some instances, runs off to an indefinite distance. Streams run from the sides of the mountains, toward the valleys, but sink in the alluvion at their base. They are gen- erally grassed, particularly up in the cations or ravines. | May 23, Camp No. 19, She-o-wi-te, or Willow Creek—Morning cloudy and lower- ing. Thermometer at 5.30 a.m., 49°. The guide reports two passes, one north of west, and the other west of south. Neither is in the most direct line of approach to our ultimate point, but the latter is much the nearer of the two, and therefore we take it, bearing off, however, still more southwardly in order to certainly reach water within a reasonable distance. (We found, however, the next day that we could have taken a more direct course, (southwest,) as laid down on the map, and have saved about 10 miles. Wagons should take this latter course, which they will find practicable.) Eight miles from camp ran a short distance parallel to a small stream, which sinks. Willows along it. Grass scant and alkaline. About 4 miles farther cross a wash or creek running southeast, the bed of which is 12 feet wide, and which at times must void a great deal of water, though at present it only exists in pools. Bunch-grass along it, but too alkaline for use. Two miles farther, pass, on our right, about a mile off, a mound, in which are some warm springs, one of them so warm as scarcely to ad- mit the hand. The mound is the product of the springs, and is a calcareous tufa. Three-and a half miles.more brought us to a small spring, which I call after Private Shelton, of the dragoons, who found it, and who, besides being a soldier in appearance, is no less so in the thorough manner in which he executes the orders which are given him. No grass of any account about the spring, and not a sufficient quantity of water for the animals. They are consequently driven about 1.5 miles to the mountain slopes. Day’s travel, 17.5 miles. Road good. Soil argillaceous and covered with sage and greasewood. , In cleaning out the spring, where we have encamped, the bones of a human being were found far-gone in decomposition. This is corroborative of the statement of my guide, last fall, that the Indians of this region bury their dead frequently in springs. It may be imagined that those who had drunk of the water did not feel very comfort- able after the discovery. Fortunately for my mess the cook had used the water from the kegs which had been filled at the last camp. We were thus freed from the con- 10BU : 74 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. sciousness of having done an unpleasant thing. (On my return route, we found numer- ous springs in this valley to the north of, and not far from, our present camp.) ‘T'wo more men on sick-list. All improving, except Clarke. May 24, Camp No. 20, Shelton’s Spring—Altitude above the sea, 5,993 feet. ~ Thermometer at 5 a.m., 41°. Pete came in this morning, having traveled all night to pilot us to the next camping-place. In consequence of our having made a longer march yesterday than the guide thought we should, our to-day’s travel will be only about 7 miles. Our course lay south of west, through a pass at the foot of Antelope Mountain, and continues over the foot-hills on the north side of the same, to a rush- ing stream, 3 feet wide and 1 deep, where, at 9.15 a. m., among the foot-hills, we encamp, in good grass and abundant cedar timber. This stream, which the Diggers call Wonst-in-dam-me (Antelope) Creek, coming from a high mountain, is doubtless constant, and, indeed, the Indians so represent it. ‘The mountain from which it flows is magnificently serrated, and can well be distinguished by this peculiarity and its many cones. Several other streams course down its sides and sink in the valley after running a mile or two. Abundant grass can be found along the streams high up and on the canon. These mountains are of a different kind from those we have crossed since paving Short-Cut Pass. The latter have been mostly of a sedimentary character, tilted as far as the We-a-bah range, generally to the west. Since then they have tilted toward the east: ‘These rocks have in many instances been altered by heat, but not suffi- ciently so to come strictly under the classification of metamorphic rocks. Those we have -passed through to-day, however, are decidedly igneous, though stratified rocks, some of them semifused and metamorphosed, have also been seen. To-day on the route passes could be seen in the mountain-range to the east of us, which may be useful on our return. Colonel Cooper’s Peak, on account of its cone- like shape and isolated position, has been all day a very conspicuous object. Journey 7 miles. Road hilly, but good. Some beautiful cacti, of hemispherical shape and covered with buds, seen to-day. Another man reported sick. The weather for the past two days has been very bracing, and the effects of it are an alacrity in the men to their work, a general hilarity of conversation, and sports of different kinds in camp. This morning, after reaching camp, my assistants and myself have been practicing with the lasso or lariat. The Mexican herders with us and Indian Pete are so expert at it and useful in capturing two or three of our mules, which could not be otherwise caught, as to make us feel the value of the accom- plishment. In this country, where the bunch-grass prevails, the animals of a train should never be picketed, but be allowed to rove freely for grass, under the guidance and control of the herders. All of our animals are free from halters or lariats, and in the morning, when they are driven into camp, the teamsters have no difficulty in catching each his own mules. If you have wagons enough, however, it saves time to drive _ them into a corral made of them and connecting-ropes. _ Our little camp, made up of four wall-tents, three Sibley’s, and three common tombs, ‘ith our twelve covered wagons and two spring or instrument wagons, with all ae : the —— ances of living men and animals, constitute quite a picturesque scene. = REPORT AND JOURNAL. 7D May 25, Camp No. 21, Wons-in-dam-me, or Antelope, Creek.—Altitude above the sea, 6,595 feet. Longitude, 116° 39’ 12’; latitude, 39° 29°13’. Thermometer at 44 a.m., 22°. Ice in the buckets this morning. Sky clear and bright. Course westwardly, over a shoot or branch of Kobah Valley. In 4.3 miles cross Saw-wid Creek, a rapid stream, 3 feet wide and 1 deep, which comes from the Antelope Mountains, on our left, and sinks 500 yards below our crossing. Fine grass upon it toward the mountains. This branch of Kobah Valley, partially shut in at the south by a low range 8 miles off, but shows passes to the southwest and also to the southeast. Colonel Cooper’s Peak still conspicuous. Many signs of sage-hen and antelope in this valley. A herd of the latter seen. At 12 m. reach foot of range, on west side of valley, after a journey of 13.7 miles, and encamp on a small creek, which I call Clarke’s Creek, after John Clarke, one of the men, and upon which, and in the canons higher up in the mount- ains, is plenty of grass. Road good, except the difficulty of breaking down the stubby sage-bush. The sage we have daily to break through with our wagons ranges from 8 to 8 inches at butt. It can be seen from this that the constant recurrence of this kind of hinderance in the aggregate amounts to a great deal. Soil argillaceous. Ar- temisia the characteristic, Altitude of Kobah Valley above the sea, 6,210 feet. The mountain-range immediately to our west is called by the Indians the Pah- ye-ah, or Water Mountain, on account of the many streams which flow down its sides - jnto Kobah Valley, and on them is to be seen an abundance of grass. As I have before remarked, this stream, or one to the north of it, can and ought to be struck directly by wagons from Camp No. 19, and thus some 10 miles saved. (See map.) Some fifteen or twenty Diggers have come into camp. From these I have been enabled to get the names of some of the mountains and streams. They are the most lively, jocose Indians I have seen. Say two rats make a meal. Like rabbits better than rats, and antelope better than either, but cannot get the latter. Have no guns; use bow and arrow. They occasionally amuse us very much in their attempts to ride our mules, which are, however, so much frightened at their rabbit-skin dress as to cause them to run off with them. One of them from this cause caught to-day a tumble. , I have worn my great-coat all the morning, and at times found it not warm enough. The guide returned at 2 o'clock, and reports a good camp 15 to 18 miles ahead of us, at the east foot of the second range to the west of us. May 26, Camp No. 22.—Altitude above the sea, 6,373 feet. Up to this morning fifteen persons, nearly one-fourth of the command, have reported sick. A portion, how- ever, have been returned to duty. Morning fine, but cool. Thermometer at’5 a.m., 29°. Night sensibly colder than any we have had, caused, doubtless, by the vicinity of the snow mountains, the Pe-er-re-ah range, to the west of us. Our morning departure very exhilarating. The crack of the whip, the “gee! get up !” of the teamsters, the merry laugh, the sudden shout from the exuberance of spirits, the-clinking of armor, the long array of civil, military, and economic personnel, in due order, moving with hope to our destined end, coupled with the bright, bracing morning, and, at times, twittering of birds, make our morning departure from camp very pleasing. Skirt the foot of the Pah-re-ah Mountains; course, southwardly ; the pass imme- 76 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. diately back or west of camp, which would shorten the route considerably, not being practicable for wagons, though pack-animals can use it. In 2 miles commence turning gradually westward, and in 2 miles farther, up an easy wagon-grade, reach summit of pass. Altitude above the sea, 6,440 feet. From this pass the Pe-er-re-ah (meaning Big or High) Mountain appears directly before us, some 12 miles off, trending north and south. ‘These mountains in solidity put you in mind of the Hum- bqldt Mountains. They have been conspicuous for several days back. The road down the west side of the Pah-re-ah range is carried on the ridge of the spur, which furnishes a passable grade, though that down the cafion is not bad, and is entirely practicable for wagons without work, though a little sidling. The first rattlesnake I have seen on the route I passed within a foot or two of my horse. The taxidermist, Mr. McCarthy, secured him with his fingers by the neck, much to the astonishment of the men near. 7 After reaching, in 7 miles from summit of pass, the valley called Won-a-ho- nupe, we turned northwest diagonally across it to the pass, through the Pe-er-re-ah Mountains. In 10 miles from summit of pass, through the Pah-re-ah range, we came to a rapid creek (Won-a-ho-nupe), 8 or 10 feet wide, 14 deep, and running southwardly _ between steep sand-banks, 15 feet high. In 4 miles more cross this stream at mouth of canon, and encamp one-fourth of a mile above on the stream, in good grass and where cedar abounds. Journey, 18.2 miles. Road generally to-day very good; over the Pah-re-ah range a large portion of it rocky from the loose igneous rocks scattered over the ground. Notice ranging along the west slope of the Pah-re-ah range a number of columns of stone, doubtless put by the Indians as landmarks to guide them over this trackless region. | Won-a-ho-nupe Valley is from 9 to 12 miles wide. Soil areno-argillaceous, and is very thinly covered with artemisia. At the south it appears uninterrupted; at the north is closed by a low range, a few miles above where we enter the pass of the Pe- er-re-ah range, admitting, however, a road of easy grade into the next valley. Altitude of valley above the sea, 5,443 feet. 7 A number of antelope seen. Notice under a cedar near our camp a very large willow basket of conical shape, which would contain probably a bushel and a half. Concealed under the same cedar were a number of rolls of willow peeling nicely tied together; also faggots or bundles of peeled willow—the stock in trade of some indus trious Digger. Directed they should not be disturbed. May 27, Camp No. 23, Won-a-ho-nupe Caiion.—Altitude above the sea, 5,870 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 37°. One herder reported sick. This makes sixteen on sick- list from commencement. The bugle having become bent, and therefore not servicea- ble, reveillé not as prompt as usual. Morning bright. Leave at 6.10 a.m. Course westwardly up the cafion. This cation quite luxuriant with willow and grass, the latter appearing in places quite green. The Ephedra pedunculata also begins to be quite a a common. The stream in the canon is quite pure, and I think there must be trout in it. ‘The road is winding through the cation, but of easy grade, the only bad places being _ the frequent crossings of the creek, which oceasionally are somewhat bogey. At ese places, and on some short ascents and descents, the men haye been required to REPORT AND JOURNAL. 77 do some excavation and embankment. At 11 o'clock, after a journey of 4.9 miles, we come to a small lake and the cafion expands into a sort of park about 4 by 3 miles in area. The landseape here quite pretty and very unique for this country. After giving orders to go into camp upon this lake, I continued up the main stream expect- ing in about a mile to reach the summit. After riding 7 miles I had not reached the source of the stream, and the indications were that it came from a snow peak ahead, which was still quite 5 miles off. This stream comes from northwest by west magnetic- ally, and is quite rapid, and continued quite copious as far as I went up it. There isa ereat deal of meadow along it, and bunch-grass on the sides of the mountains; the grade, as far as I went, was easy. It leading me, however, too far north, I returned to camp with the hope of a more direct pass being found more westwardly. An old Digger has visited our camp and represents that we are the first white persons he has ever seen. He says there is a large number of Indians living around, but they had run away from fear of us. I asked him why he had not been afraid. He said he was so old that it was of no consequence if he did die. I told him to say to them that we would be always glad to see them, and whenever they saw white men always to approach them in a friendly way, and they would not be hurt. He has been around eating at the different messes, and at length had so gorged himself as to be unable to eat more until he had disgorged, when he went around again to renew the pleasure. I showed him my watch, the works of which he looked upon with a great deal of wonder. He said he would believe what I told him about the magnetic telegraph the next time he was toldit. He is at least sixty years old, and says he never had a chief. I asked him if his country was a good one. He said it was. He liked it a good deal better than any other. Iasked him why. Because, he said, it had a great many rats. I asked him if they ever quarreled about their rat country. He said they did. So it would appear that civilized nations are not the only people who go to war about their domains. The guide and party left us this morning, and are to be absent two or three days in researches ahead. Pete returned this evening from this party and reports our pass to-morrow to be the one directly west from camp, as I had concluded from this after- noon’s reconnaissance. The lake we are on is several acres in extent. Ducks frequent it. The grass about it and along the creek is quite luxuriant, and expands in places into meadows of considerable area. Cedar is found on the heights. Should it ever become necessary to establish a post, say near the east entrance of Won-a-ho-nupe Camion, the grass, water, and timber of this mountain-range would be amply sufficient, and fine granite building-stone could be found in the carion. The party has given my name to this lake, park, and pass; and also to the creek, but as it has been my rule to preserve the Indian names, whenever I can ascertain them, and Won-a-ho-nupe is the name of the creek, I shall continue so to call it. For the past two days the ground has been so resplendent with flakes of mica of a golden hue as to constantly remind you how rich it would be in gold were the shin- ing particles veritably such. May 28, Camp No. 24, Simpson’s Park, Pe-er-re-ah range.—Longitude, 116° 49°; lat- 78 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. itude, 39° 30’ 32”. Altitude above the sea, 6,355 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 30°. Morning somewhat cloudy. Renewed journey at 10 minutes to 6a.m. Leave valley of Won-a-ho-nupe Creek and strike west for Simpson’s Pass, which we reach by a very easy ascent in 4.7 miles; altitude above the sea, 7,104 feet. The grass in the pass very abundant and of the finest character. This fine mountain bunch-grass fattens and strengthens our animals like oats. The pass at summit is as much as a mile wide, and both backward and forward the views are beautiful. The mountains near our camp of May 25 are seen very conspicuously back of us; and ahead of us, limiting Reese Valley, which we are approaching, is a low range trending generally north and south, and beyond them a yery high range covered with snow, called by the Indians the Se-day-e or Lookout Mountains. The Pe-er-re-ah Mountains, which we are now about to leave, are composed, up Won-a-ho-nupe Carion, of quartzite, altered slates, and granite rocks ; and near Simpson’s Park the rocks are highly metamorphosed, semifused and stratified. At the pass they are granitic. Descending from the summit of Simpson’s Pass, west side, by not a very steep but sandy grade, and along a short sidling place, near foot of ravine, (which our wagons passed by use of ropes to upper side, but which will require some slight side- excavation when the route is improved,) in 2.8 miles reach Reese Valley, which, in 3.7 miles more, we traverse to Reese River; this we cross by ford, and in 2.6 miles more up the river, or southwardly, reach our camping ground. Fuel should be brought. Day’s travel, 13.8 miles. Road generally good: The ravine on west side of Simpson’s Pass is filled with a thorn-bush in full bloom, 2 to 3 feet high; blossoms like those of the crab-apple. The valley in which we are encamped, as well as its creek, I call after Mr. Reese, our guide, who, with two other men, discovered it some years since in their peregrinations between Salt Lake City and Carson Valley. They gave it the name of New River; but as Mr. Reese has been of considerable service, and discovers very laudable zeal in examining the country ahead in our explorations, I have thought it is but just to call the river and valley after him. The Indian name of the river is Pang-que-o-whop-pe, or Fish Creek. Mr. Reese is now, for the first time, on ground he has been once over, but confesses it has been so long ago it does not appear familiar to him. Reese River is 10 feet wide, 14 deep; current moderate; water good, though of a slight milky color from sediment; runs northwardly, and is the largest stream we have seen this side of the Jordan. ‘Trout weighing 24 pounds are found in it. The grass along it is luxuriant, but in many places alkaline. It is best and very abundant farther up the stream, and extends as far as the eye can reach, Reese Valley is from 10 to 15 miles wide; at the north appears uninterrupted ; at the south seems to be bounded by a range of mountains 30 miles off. Next to Spring Valley, it is the whitest with alkaline efflorescence we have seen. Soil argillo- arenaceous and covered with the wild sage and greasewood. It is quite well watered, and several streams well grassed can be seen tending to it from the west slope of the Pe-er-re-ah range. Altitude above the sea, by barometric measurement, 5,530 feet. _ Sanchez returned from guide’s party this afternoon, and reports next camp about 22.5 miles off. | hal REPORT AND JOURNAL. 79 May 29, Camp No. 25, Reese River—Altitude above the sea, 5,563 feet. Magnetic variation, 16° 10’ E. Thermometer at 4.50 a. m., 22°.5. Intended spending the Sab- bath here, but the grass not being of the best kind, think it best to move. Morning lovely, though cool. The mules more and more difficult to catch up; attribute it to the improved condition, caused by the nutritious properties of the mountain bunch- grass. Moved at 5 minutes to 6 a.m. Course southwestwardly, to a depression or pass of the low range bounding Reese Valley on its west side, which we reach by an easy grade in 13.5 miles. Altitude above the sea, 6,485 feet. This pass is remarkable on account of the igneous, reddish rocks about it, several of them appearing in the form of peaks, domes, and knobs. ‘These are semifused, stratified, and porphyritic rocks. Notice avery small spring to the left of the road, just before reaching summit. The recent foot-prints of Indians leading to it show that they cannot be far from us. The water is doubtless not constant. From summit of pass see another valley to the west of us, ranging generally north and south, and bounded by the Se-day-e or Lookout range, on its west side In 2 miles from summit reach west foot of pass in valley by a tolerable descent, and without difficulty. This valley is exceedingly forbidding in appearance. To the south the bottom is an extended clay flat, perfectly divested of vegetation, terminating toward the sout +n a small lake. In the distance it all looked so much like a sheet of water that I sent a dragoon ahead to examine it; but, with my spy-glass, seeing him gallop over it, I concluded it was passable; so gave the word forward. . I struck magnetically 8. 60° W., to the green spot across the valley Sanchez pointed out as our camp-ground, and on going to it passed over a portion of the clay flat referred to. In its checkered and smooth state it put me in mind of a polished tesselated floor. Clouds of dust, like smoke, could be seen eddying over it in different directions. In 5.8 miles from foot of pass, at 34 p. m., after a journey of ‘21.2 miles, come to a creek, where we encamp. in tolerable grass. The creek is 5 feet wide, 2 deep, and, running with considerable rapidity, spreads out in many rills, and sinks in the lake referred to. Abundant grass can be found at the mouth of the cafon of this stream. Both the stream and cation I call after my assistant, Lieut. J. L. Kirby Smith. : This valley, which I call after Capt. I. C. Woodruff, Corps Topographical Engi- neers, is 10 to 15 miles wide, and closed partially at the north by a pretty high mountain, some 12 miles off, and at the south by a range which seems to admit of egress at the southeast and also the southwest angle. Its altitude above the sea is 6,000 feet. Road to-day in Reese Valley, for 2 miles from camp, heavy; remainder good, except a little rough going down from the pass in the valley, on account of some gullies. A couple of wolves noticed in the vicinity of camp, the. first we have seen. May 30, Camp No. 26, Smith's Creek, Woodruff Valley—Elevation above the sea, 5,960 feet. ‘Thermometer at sunrise, 35°. Our guide told Sanchez before leaving him day before yesterday that he would meet us at this camp last evening. This he has not done; and as he is alone, contrary to my orders, which require him always to come in with the last man of his party, I am not gratified, though doubtless his zeal has led him to this unauthorized venture. We have therefore remained in camp to-day 80 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. on his account. Meantime I sent out Pete; Payte, and Sanchez to examine the pass directly to our west, up Smith’s Creek, and they have returned and report it impracti- cable for wagons without a great deal of bridging and other work. (The diary of my return route will show, however, that on our return we got through this pass without any great difficulty; and though some work is necessary to make the road through it what it should be, yet in grade it was far better, though 4 miles farther, than by the way of the’ pass to the south of it, which we took in our outward route.) Payte and party report they saw Diggers in the mountains to the west of us to-day, but that they fled as soon as they were perceived. They found one little fellow, about four years of age, hid behind a sage-bush, but as soon as their backs were turned the youngster put off as fast as his legs would carry him. On our return we ascertained that the Pe-er-re-ah range, which we crossed on the 28th, is the boundary between the Sho-sho-nee Diggers (or what has been called, as I think erroneously, the Pah-utes) and the Pi-utes, as the Un-go-we-ah range seems to be the boundary between the Sho-sho-nee Diggers and the Go-shoots. Why the. Pah-utes should have been thus called I am at a loss to comprehend, for their lan- guage is Sho-sho-nee, and not Ute, and, therefore, they are more certainly a people derived from, or cognate with, that tribe than the Ute. T also notice that the Pi-utes and Pah-utes are designated on the maps as one and the same people. This is also a mistake, and doubtless has arisen from similarity of their names. They are all, how- ever, more or less Diggers; that is, they live on roots, rats, lizards, insects, grass- seeds, Ke. es: | May 31, Camp No. 26, Smith’s Creck.—Thermometer at 5.20 a.m.,29°. Mr. Reese, the guide, not returning last night, I have thought it expedient to send out Payte to explore to the south and west, giving him special instructions in the premises, so that in case any accident may have happened to Mr. Reese we may at once move forward to his rescue. Pete and Sanchez and two dragoons accompany him. Heis to keep me advised daily of the proper places to encamp ahead. The party take three days’ pro- visions. One of the party returned at 1 o’clock, and reported grass and water 10 miles ahead, in a southwest direction, and a pass near, which looked favorably for crossing the Se-day-e range. June 1, Camp No. 26, Smith's Creek—Thermometer at 5.25 a.m., 30°. -Mr. Reese has not yet made his appearance. I feel quite anxious about him, as he is entirely alone. He has hitherto been very prompt in fulfilling his engagements, riding some- times late at night, and, on one occasion, all night, to effect it. I therefore have sent out Mr. McCarthy and two dragoons to track him, and at the same time have ordered the whole party forward to the water and grass reported yesterday. This is in the direction in which he told Sanehez he would cross the next, or Se-day-e, Mountain. Just after commencing the march, I noticed apparently an old, decrepit-looking man approaching the train from the west side, and supporting himself by a couple of -erutches or sticks. At first I took him for a Digger Indian. On more close scrutiny, o however, I found it to be Mr. Reese, our guide, who, as soon as we reached him, sank - down exhausted into a sage-bush. His clothes were nearly torn off him, and altogether he pres antec a most pitiable aspect. As soon as he could collect his mind he informed REPORT AND JOURNAL. 81 us that the day before yesterday, when on the other or west side of the Se-day-e Mountains, about 17 miles off, his mule gave out, and that he has ever since been on foot, trudging over the mountains to find us. He had no clothing except what he~had on his back, and as he had lost his matches he could make no fire, though the night was quite cold. He had lost his haversack of provisions, and the consequence was that he had had nothing to eat. Some Digger Indians he met kindly offered him three fat rats, but as they had been roasted with entrails and offal unremoved, he said he did not feel hungry enough to accept their generous hospitality. We were exceedingly elad to see him, and had him supplied with something to eat, after which he went to sleep in one of the wagons. Finding him safe, I sent a dragoon to notify Mr. MeCarthy and party of the fact, and direct their return: Our course to-day has been magnetically 5. 25° W., between the base of the Se-day-e range on our right and the clay flat and small lake of Woodruff Valley on our left. In 1.6 miles from camp cross a fine rapid stream, 5 feet wide, 2 deep, bottom somewhat soft, which I called after Mr. Engelmann, the geologist of my party. It expends itself in the lake. Two and a half miles farther cross another small stream running in the same direction, and after a day’s march of 10.2 miles come to a swift creek running east from the mountains, which I call after Lieutenant Putnam, Topo- eraphical Engineers, one of my assistants. It is 6 feet wide, 2 deep, and of gravelly bottom. After running 5 or 6 miles it expends itself in the small lake before referred to. Willows line it. Soil of Woodruff Valley argillaceous, benches gravelly. The artemisia the characteristic. Cedars cover the mountains near. Payte with party returned to camp just after we had pitched our tents, and reports a pass 10 miles south of this, which he thinks, without considerable work, impracticable, and says it looks very steep on the other side. There is, however, a practicable pass 90 miles south of us, but as after we get through it, according to him, we will have to #0 20 miles more before we can get water, I have determined to go and look myself for a pass, Lieutenant Murry, Mr. Jagiello, Payte, and Pete accompanying me. 8.30 o'clock p.m—Just returned from a reconnaissance of a pass, the foot of which is 2 miles southwest from camp. Started from camp at 2.30, returned at 8.30, just after tattoo; distance traveled about 24 miles. Found the pass on the east side of the mountain quite steep, and that on the west side quite rough, on account of the — rocks and of the stream which passes down it. Think, however, it practicable, with — some labor, and shall therefore attempt it to-morrow. Lieutenant Putnam reports the cafion of Putnam’s Creek, north of west from camp, for 24 miles so narrow as to make it perfectly impracticable for wagons without a great deal of excavation, revetting, and blasting. | June 2, Camp No. 27, Putnam’s Creek.—Longitude, 117° 27' 34”; latitude, 39° 14 13”. Elevation above the sea, 6,325 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 48°. Moved at 5 minutes of 6 a.m. Course southwestwardly to the base of the Se-day-e Mountain, and then generally westwardly through what I call the Gibraltar (or south) Pass, exam- ined by me yesterday. ‘The teams reached summit of pass, 5 miles from last camp, at 10 o’elock, without doubling. ‘The only exceedingly steep place is about three-fourths of a mile up, where the ravine is left and a minor ridge surmounted to get over into lL EBU “ 82 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the south branch of Putnam’s Creek. The ascent of this minor ridge is steep, and the descent on the west side still more so. To accomplish the latter without accident we had to lock and rough-shoe the wheels. A good grade is possible, with the labor of some twenty men one day, on left side of track. ‘Two and one-half miles thence up Putnam’s Creek by a good grade brought us to summit of pass, 7,741 feet above the sea, and 3.7 miles more down Gibraltar Creek (a small stream) to a point in the cafon, - where, at half past 4, we encamped. The road on the west side of the pass is very rough, on account of its frequent crossings of Gibraltar Creek and large, loose rocks scattered around, but by bridging the creek and removing the rocks—no very great work—it could be made good. Met with two upsets, and the breaking of a wagon- tongue, hound, and coupling in this cafion. On right of cation, descending from summit, some stupendous granitic and por- phyritic rocks, probably 500 feet above the valley, are noticeable. Journey 8.7 miles. I continued 7 miles farther down the caiion to examine it, returning about 9 o’clock p. m., and finding the command uneasy about me, as I was alone. The guide, Mr. Reese, found his mule where he had left him the other day, saddle and everything safe. The cafions of this mountain abound in pure water and splendid grass. The mountain-mahogany is also seen. Cedar and pines are also found, as they have been in nearly“every range since we left the Great Salt Lake Desert. ‘These cedars branch immediately from the ground, are 12 or 15 feet high, and present in the mass a rotund form. The pines are generally on the summits of the ridges, and are generally not more than 25 or 30 feet, though some attain a height of 50. The rocks of the Se-day-e Mountain are porphyritic and trachytic, also semifused stratified rocks. West of summit they are white granite, lower down red and brown porphyritic rocks. | June 3, Camp No. 28, Gibraltar Creek—Thermometer at 5.10 a.m., 48°. Morning pleasantly cool, and as usual clear. Mr. Reese, with Pete, Sanchez, and two dragoons, _left this morning to be absent for several days, probably four or five, to examine the country in advance, and keep me advised daily of route and camping-places. Raised camp at 6.15, and continued down Gibraltar Cafion. For about a mile it continued rough from isolated rocks; after this no difficulty. Creek sinks 1.7 miles below camp. Five and a half miles farther strike a small creek and a spring, which might be called an extension or re-appearance of Gibraltar Creek, though strictly it is a continuation of its more northern branch, which comes in from the mountain at this point. Half a mile farther pass through a gap. or gate between some stupendous rocks of a dark- gray and brown porphyritic character, which form a range of narrow breadth per- _pendicular to our course. This defile from the cafion to the valley I call the Gate of Gibraltar. It is about 50 yards wide, and of champaign character. From this gate, following the course of Gibraltar Creek (very small) in a southwest direction, we cross in 7.2 miles a valley or plain, and arrive at a second gate or gap in a low range, run- ning north and south, where, at 4 p. m., we encamp near the sink of Gibraltar Creek. A limited amount of grass is found at the gap; more in vicinity on west side. The ‘mountain range which crosses here is perfectly devoid of timber. Road to-day rough, the first 2 miles down Gibraltar Canon, and subsequently somewhat soft on account of REPORT AND JOURNAL. 83 the pulverulent character of the soil of the valley to the west of the Se-day-e range. This valley, along the route, is quite a desert one, scattering greasewood and the wild sage being the principal growth. On reaching our camping-place, which I call the Middle Gate, saw a naked Indian stretched out on the rocks at an angle of about 20 degrees. He was so much of the color of the rocks as to escape our notice for some time. On being aroused he looked a little astonished to see so many armed men about him, but soon felt assured of safety by their kind treatment. He seemed particularly pleased when he saw the long string of wagons coming in, and laughed outright for joy. I counted twenty-seven rats and - one lizard lying about him, which he had killed for food. He had with him his appli- ances for making fire. They consisted simply of a piece of hard greasewood, about 2 feet long, and of the size or smaller than your little finger in cross-section. This was rounded at the but. Then a second flat piece of the same kind of wood, 6 inches long by 1 broad and § thick. This second piece had a number of semi-spherical cavities on one of its faces. With this piece laid on the ground, the cavities uppermost, he placed the other stick between the palms of his hands, and with one end of the latter in a cavity, and holding the stick in a vertical position, he would roll it rapidly forward and back, till the friction would cause the tinder, which he had placed against the foot of the stick in the cavity, to ignite. In this way I saw him produce fire in a few seconds. After sundown a Pi-ute Indian, the first we have met, came into camp, habited in a new hickory (coarse check) shirt, doubtless of the stock I gave the guide this morning, as presents to the Indians for information and guidance to water and erass. The shirt is most probably the credentials of his office as guide to us to-morrow, besides, his gestures (Pete is away and we therefore cannot talk to him) seem to indicate the same thing. In addition, the guide has sent no dragoon back, as directed, and this seems to confirm our suspicions that he has been sent to us as a guide. Dr Baily reports only one person on the sick-list, Mr. J agiello. The day has been op- pressively hot, and everything indicates that, from the Se-day-e range, we have descended to a lower level of altitude than we have experienced at any time along the route. The mountains, too, appear lower, and are entirely free from snow; the gen- eral face of the country is very arid and forbidding. The men had hard work to pitch our tents on account of the high wind and dust. . June 4, Camp No. 29, Middle Gate—Flevation above the sea, 4,665 feet. For the first time it was so warm last night that I slept under a single comforter. Heretofore I could searcely make myself warm enough with all fhe bed-clothing I could muster. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 38°. Morning clear and pleasant. Moved at 6. Our new Indian guide cut an amusing figure in attempting to mount his mule. He rides by clinging to the pommel of the saddle. Immediately after passing through Middle Gate, strike southwestwardly over a pulverulent prairie to a third gate, which we reach in 34 miles, and which I call the West Gate. It is also a gap in a low range of mountains running north and south. After threading this defile, pass over another thirsty-looking, marly prairie, surrounded by low, ashy-looking mountgins, with passes between. In 5 miles get across this valley, and attain summit of a low ridge, whence we descend to another shallow valley, altitude above the sea 4,090 feet, which I call ? 84 EXPLORATIONS ‘ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Dry Flat Valley, on account of the whitish clay flat we cross, and which is as smooth and as hard as a floor. Indeed, the glare from it was almost blinding. Twenty miles from camp we attain the summit of the range dividing Dry from a valley I call Alkaline Valley, on account of its general whitish alkaline appearance from saline efflorescence. Descending this ridge 1.7 miles, and turning northwardly and skirting it for 2.7 miles, we come to our camp-ground, where the guide party, which is in advance of us, has dug a number of small wells. The water is found in an efflorescent sand-flat, and lies 3 feet below the surface. In some of the holes it is strongly alkaline ; in others just tolerable. The addition of vinegar improves it very much. It is, however, difficult to keep up a supply of water on account of the sand tumbling in. The grass in the vicinity is very alkaline and scant, and altogether this is a miserable camping-place, the worst we have had. Fuel, rabbit-bush, a miserable substitute for the sage or greasewood. The wagons reached camp at half past 4. Journey, 24.5 miles. Road pretty good. Country very arid and desert. Mountains in the distance perfectly devoid of timber, and of a thirsty, ashy hue, except the last range we crossed, which is of a dark-brown appearance, appreaching black, and therefore called Black Mountains. The rocks at our morning’s camp, Middle Gate, are porphyritic; westward of these as far as the Black Mountains, first quartzite, and then highly altered stratified rock, siliceous lime- stones, slates, dolomite. The Black Mountains are made up of partly strongly-meta- morphosedst, ratified rocks and partly igneous and scoriaceous, lava-like rocks traversed by quartz-veins. , 3 The day has been very hot, and we have all felt very thirsty; not knowing when we started that water would be so far off, we had not taken the precaution which we should have done to have our water-kegs filled at Gibraltar Caton. Our great thirst over these desert plains is no doubt owing to the dry condition of the atmosphere, which favors the rapid dessication or drying up of the humors of the body. On the route, one of the dragoons returned from the guide’s party with a note from Mr. Reese, informing me of the locality of to-night’s camp, and giving the unpalatable news that the water was not good, the grass poor, and that we were within 12 miles of the north end of Walker’s Lake, where we would encamp to-morrow- The consequence is, that as the point I have been aiming at is the north bend of Walker's River, and not the Lake, we are a great deal too far to the south, and must therefore make the necessary corresponding northing. This error could only have occurred on the supposition of Walker’s Lake being wrongly placed on the Topo- graphical Bureau map, for I feel confident that the latitudes which I have worked out, and upon which we have based our southing, have been correct. If Mr. Reese had not assured me that he had been over this portion of the country before, I should doubt the truth of his representations; but, relying on the accuracy of his observations, we are obliged to change our course from our present camp in a northwest direction in order to reach in the most direct way the north bend of Walker's River. June 5, Camp No. 30, Alkaline Valley—Altitude above the sea, 3,900 feet. Ther- -mometer at 3.30 a.m., 48°. Up at half past 3 a. m., but in consequence of mules straying off to get grass and water, the train did not move until 5. Course nerth of REPORT AND JOURNAL. 85 west, along west foot of Black Mountains, to the north end of what turned out to be Carson instead of Walker's Lake. The guide, therefore, at fault, and neither the Topographical Bureau map nor my calculations wrong. As the map will indicate, it will be perceived that before I made the turn to the northwest, pursuant to the repre- sentation of our whereabouts by our guide, my course was direct for the bend of Walker's River, the locality aimed at from the commencement of the expedition at Camp Floyd. The consequence is that we have lost about 12 miles by our guide’s errors, and will have to retrogade, for a distance, our steps. The road to-day has been along the east edge of Alkaline Valley, and the west foot of the Black Mountains. In the valley it has been heavy, and on the benches, on account of the basaltic rocks, rough. The valley, which is almost everywhere white with saline incrustation, is about 16 miles long and 8 broad, and in wet weather must cut up a great deal. ‘The mountains inclosing it are low, and give indications of passes in almost every direction. Not a sign of a tree is to be seen on any of them. The Sierra Nevada, seen for the first time to the west of us, some 60 or 70 miles off, is covered with snow. Journey, 16.6 miles. Teams got in at 12 meridian. O the luxury of good sweet water to a thoroughly thirsty traveler! Tow little do we value the daily common bounties of Providence! For the past few days a draught of pure cold water has been prized at its true value; and it is only the real absence of our comforts that causes us to estimate them at their full value. We are encamped at the head of the outlet from Carson Lake into the sink of Car- son, where our only fuel is dry rush. This outlet is about 50 feet wide and 3 or 4 feet deep, and voids the lake rapidly into its sink, which is some 10 or 15 miles to the north- east of us. The water is of a rather whitish, milky cast, and though not very lively, is yet quite good. The Carson River to the northwest, where it empties into the lake, can be seen quite distinctly, marked out by its line of green cottonwoods. The name of the river and lake was given by Colonel Frémont, in compliment to Kit Carson, one of his celebrated guides. The alluvial bottom about Carson Lake is quite extensive and rich, as the luxuriant growth of rushes shows, and could, I think, be easily irrigated. The only drawback to its being unexceptionable for cultivation in every part is its being somewhat alka- line in places, particularly toward its southern portion. Curlew, pelican, and ducks, and other aquatic birds frequent the locality, and the lake is filled with fish. A num- ber of Pi-utes, some two dozen, live near our camp, and I notice they have piles’ of fish lying about drying, principally chubs and mullet. They catch them with a seine, Their habitation consists of flimsy sheds, made of rushes, which screen them from the sun and wind. They present a better appearance than the Diggers we have seen, both in respect to clothing and features. Indeed, they act as if they had been in contact with civilization, and had to some degree been improved by it. The decoy-ducks they use on the lake to attract the live ducks are perfect in form and fabric, and I have obtained a couple for the Smithsonian Institution. | a This valley of Carson Lake presents at sunset a very pretty landseape. It lies very level, and on every side, at a considerable distance, with intervals between, are yery pretty blue mountains lying along the horizon, giving variety to the picture. The 86 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. air this afternoon has been also very soft and balmy, having a tranquilizing effect on the senses and inducing one to drink in with delight what lies before him. Pete, whom I found at camp, and had sent out to bring in the rest of the guide’s party, returned at 6 p. m., bringing with him the infantry soldier, Sanchez, and the pack-mule. He missed the track of Mr. Reese, who will be in to-night, probably, or to-morrow. The Pi-ute with the check shirt accompanied us all the way to our present camp. In mounting his mule, he invariably would protrude his legs through and between his arms while resting his hands on the saddle, and in one instance, in his attempt to mount in this way, awkwardly tumbled off on the other side. June 6, Camp No. 31, north end of Carson Lake—Longitude, 118° 30’ 01”; latitude, 39° 23’ 37”; altitude above the sea, 3,840 feet; thermometer at 4.45 a. m., 433°. Mr. Reese returned during the night. .The Indians in camp early this morn- ing, with fish to barter in exchange for old clothing, powder, &c. Seem to be pretty keen in a trade about small things; but in larger matters—as, for instance, the barter of a child—one of the Indians said he would sell his, a lad of about 8 years of age, for a jackknife. They seem to be perfectly beside themselves at the idea of a train of wagons passing through their settlement. Nothing of the kind has ever occurred before. They laugh anid jabber like so many parrots, and it has been difficult to get any distinct notions from them about the country in advance of us. We retrograde to-day in our course, southerly direction, and skirt the east shore of Carson Lake. Air balmy and throwing a blue veil over the near and distant mountains. ‘The snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada seen on our right; the water of Carson Lake beautifully blue; lake margined with rushes; the shores are covered with muscle-shells ; pelicans and other aquatic fowl a characteristic. Upper half, that is, north half, of east margin of Carson Lake very slightly alkaline. South half, east margin, white with alkali. Indeed, as I proceed I find that the margin of the lake generally, as far as I can see, looks alkaline. In 9.7 miles leave the lake at its southern end, and, passing over and through some sand-hills, in 5.7 miles come to a small spring of calcareous water, where there is no grass. Here there has been a number of these springs, and the locality for a very considerab!e area is nothing but calcareous tufa, formed by the springs, which are all closed but one. Three miles more brought us through some heavy sand-drifts to a very small spring of miserable mineral-water, so nauseous as not to permit me to take even a swallow. No grass in vicinity. After proceeding a few miles further, in consequence of the day being very warm and the sand-hills heavy, halted at 3 o’clock, and turned out the animals to graze upon the little grass which exists in bunches eS At 5 start again, and, still ascending to crest "ot dividing ridge between Walker’s Lake Valley and Saleratus Valley, in 9.4 miles reach summit, 4,595 feet above the sea. Just before doing so, Lieutenant Murry sent word that some of the mules were giving out, and he was afraid he would be obliged to halt. I sent word back to him to try and hold on till he could reach the summit, and after that there would be no difficulty. He managed, by exchanging some of the mules, to get the wagons all up to the top of the divide, but it was midnight before we reached Walker's River, ee = mailes ogee and as the night was quite dark, we considered ourselves very REPORT AND JOURNAL. 87 fortunate that we got along without accident. Some of the party were so fagged out on reaching the camp-ground as to immediately roll themselves in their blankets on the ground and go to sleep. We find ourselves on (for this country) a noble river, but will have to await daylight to disclose its features; perceive, however, we are amid good grass and timber and have an abundance of water. Journey to-day a hard one. Country wretchedly sandy and barren, mountainous or hilly. Distance, 31.2 miles. The guide has been a Pi-Ute Indian, hired at Carson Lake. The formations along the route have been trachytic, scoriatic rocks and volcanic tufas. In the pass, just before attaining summit of divide, noticed some hieroglyphics on detached bowlders. June 7, Camp No. 32, Walker's River.—Altitude above the sea, 4,072 feet; ther- mometer at 7.30 a. m., 69°. In consequence of getting into camp so late last evening, and the teams requiring rest, we lay over at this point till this afternoon. The river we are encamped on (Walker's) is the largest I have yet seen this side of Green River; is about one hundred yards wide and from six to ten feet deep at its present stage, which seems to be high. It flows quite strongly toward Walker's Lake, in which it sinks. Its color is very much like that of the Missouri (a rather dirty yellow), and in taste is quite softand palatable. Its banks, which are vertical, are about four feet above the surface of the water. The name Walker, applied to this river and to the lake into which it flows, first appears on Frémont’s map of 1848, and was doubtless given by him in honor of Mr. Joseph Walker, the leader of the party sent by Colonel Bonne- ville, in 1835, to explore Great Salt Lake, and who subsequently, on his way to Mon- terey, Cal., passed by this river. Walker, after this, in 1845, was Frémont’s guide along this same river and lake. T have sent Mr. Reese ahead with a few men to construct a raft to enable the party to cross Carson River when we shall reach it. After attending to this, he is to proceed on to Genoa and bring back our mail. Some Pi-Utes from Walker's Lake have come into camp to sell or trade salmon-trout, caught in the lake. The largest they have weighs about 20 pounds. ‘These Indians talk a little English and dress, some of them, like white people. In condition they are superior to those we have seen. es Raise camp at 3 p.m. Sun scorching hot. Course northwestwardly along the ‘left or north bank of the river, being forced occasionally by the river from the bottom | to the sand-bench. River-bottom from one-fourth to one-half mile wide. Soil, a dark loam, very rich. Grass quite abundant and of good quality. Cottonwoods (sparsely) and willows (abundantly) fringe the river. The river-bottom could be readily and eopi- ously irrigated and made very productive. A range of low mountains run parallel | to the river on north, and another also on south side, each about eight or ten miles distant. Not a tree or shrub is to be seen on them. The contrast between the per- | fectly barren, sandy, thirsty-looking country to be seen on every side and the valley of Walker's River, fringed with green cottonwoods and willows, very refreshing. After marching ten miles, at 7 o'clock encamped again on the river. Road good except on banks of valley, where it was sandy. Pete came in from guide’s party, and reports bend of Walker's River six miles ahead, where I expect to camp to-morrow. June 8, Camp No. 33, Walker's River—Longitude, 118° 49’ 00"; latitude, 39° OT 88 | EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT (BASIN OF UTAH. 38’; altitude above the sea, 4,200 feet; thermometer at 4.45 a. m., 53°. Morning, as usual since we crossed the Se-day-e Mountains, oppressively warm immediately after sunrise. Moved at twenty minutes after 5. Continue 6.3 miles up valley of Walker’s - River, as far as the North Bend, and, at 8 a. m., encamp in tolerable grass. Road good, except the sandy portion wherever we left the bed of the river. Characteristics of country same as yesterday. June 9, Camp No. 34, North Bend of Walker's River —FElevation above the sea, 4,288 feet; thermometer at 4.25 a. m., 52°. Morning clear and pleasant. ‘The Mexican, Sanchez, did not come in last night from guide’s party to show us the road to next camp. We shall, however, push ahead, a Pi-Ute with us offering himself as éuide. Our course lies northwestwardly to Carson River. Just after leaving camp, Sanchez met us and presented a letter from the guide, as follows : “PiEasant Grove, Carson River, June 8, 1859. “Captain SIMPSON : : “Sie: Allis right. Mr. Miller will build a raft that will take the wagons over, for $30. The logs have to be hauled some three miles. The people here feel pleased that you and your party are so near. It is now.12 o'clock, and I am ready to start for Genoa. I shall be back before you arrive, to ferry on the raft. Mr. Miller says he will have it done to-morrow night. ‘“¢ Yours, | “J. Reese.” Six miles from camp we pass some hot and cold springs to left of road in valley. Thermometer rose to 165° when immersed in one of the hot springs. One of them is ten by twenty-five feet, and quite a stream flows from it. The water boils up at different points, and while it is of a sort of blue color in the body, along the margin it is a reddish-yellow color, doubtless caused by iron. The blue color is probably due to the sulphur it contains. It is the hottest spring I have seen, not excepting those near Salt Lake City. The valley, ever since we left our camp of this morning, has been exceedingly alkaline. Leaving the valley of Walker’s River and striking for Carson River, we cross the point of a low mountain—ascent and descent good—and in three and one-half miles more get into an old wagon-road, which we follow. One mile more brings us to a cation, which we thread, and in which we find a considerable patch of grass and rushes. In this canon, on left side, fourteen miles from last camp, embowered among wild roses and willows, is a small spring of good, cool water, about which there is a little grass; a plenty of the latter one-half mile south. Two miles farther, pass over the steepest and roughest hill, or spur, we have seen. We would like to continue down the valley until we strike Carson River, and then turn up its valley to the left, and thus avoid this spur, but the height of the water prevents. At this hill we were detained two and one-half hours. All the teams had to double to get up, except Payte’s, which seems thus far to carry off the meed of power and good management. Three miles more along and up Carson River upon its bank brought us to a good spot on the river, where we encamp in good grass. Garson River at our camp about 100 yards wide, quite swift; depth, from ten to fif- + REPORT AND JOURNAL. 8&9 teen feet; color, somewhat whitish or clayey. The river-bottom is about one-fourth of a miles wide, very rich, and can be readily irrigated. At this time the banks are full, and ‘in places overflowing; large cottonwoods, solitary and in groves, along it. Mosquitoes, for the first time in our exploration, troubled us on Carson Lake, and we have had them, much to our annoyance, ever since. The country to-day, between Walker's River and Carson River, miserably arid and worthless for agricultural purposes. No timber; greasewood the principal plant, and the largest I have seen six feet high and as many across its branches. Journey, 19 miles. Road good, except steep hill three miles back. Have noticed this side, or west, of Se-day-e Mountains, the dove. Trap, vesicular, and trachytic rocks; also metamorphic strata characterize the region between Walker and Carson Rivers. We are now in the gold-region. June 10, Camp No. 35, Carson Rivey.—Altitude above the sea, 4,200 feet. The mos- quitoes were so troublesome last night on the river-bottom that some of the men went on the bluff and slept. Last remaining ox of six we brought with us from Camp Floyd shows, by his constantly bellowing, his sense of his loneliness. ‘The others have been killed for beef. Thermometer at 4.35 a.m., 58°. Morning pleasant and clear. Moved . at quarter of 5. Continue westward along south side of Carson River as far as oppo- site Pleasant Grove, where at 8 o’clock a. m. we arrive. Find the raft ready, made of cottonwood-trees of an old log-house belonging to Mr. Miller, the agent of the Cali- fornia Mail Company at this station, and which he has pulled down for the purpose. This point a good one for ferry or ford; banks on either side low and firm. By 5% p. m. the wagons and property were rafted across safely, except one wagon, which unfor- tunately capsized, causing the loss of some $31 belonging to the driver, Payte, (as he said,) and some clothing, also three sets of harness. What I however grieve the most about is, that a portion of our herbariun has got soaking-wet. The mules were driven across. The men have worked hard and. haye been constantly in the water, and obliged frequently to swim. It was amusing to see the cook, Storer, throw away the coffee-pot he was bringing over on the raft, when it capsized, and plunge for his life into the stream. Fortunately, he, as well as the other fellow on the raft; could swim, and therefore there was no loss of persons. It was, however, very provoking to hear the teamster discover his morale, by the vociferation which he made just as he jumped from the raft: “Let her go; I am safe.” This was the more so, as the fellow had been a great brag; but, like all such, his courage, as well as honesty, failed him just at the moment of trial and when it was really needed. Journey to-day, 9 miles. Road in places stony. A mountain-range skirts the river on north side of river. Its geological character is probably metamorphic. Along the road the rocks have been porphyritic, trachytic, and vesicular. We have now at Pleasant Grove, for the first time, got into the old Humboldt River and Carson Valley emigrant-road. The California Mail Company have a station here, under the charge.of Mr. Miller, who occupies quite a good, weather-boarded house. The grove of cottonwoods near it give the place its name. , | June 11, Camp No. 36, Pleasant Grove-—Elevation above the sea, 4,288 feet. Moved at quarter to 7. Immediately follow up the valley of Carson River, on its north side, the old emigrant-road, which is as well beaten as any in the States; our 12 BU 90. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. course, west of south; mountain-range continues parallel to road on north side, three miles off, and on south side of river there is another, five miles off. Notice along the road three claim-shanties, and some ditching for mining purposes. : After proceeding 7.4 miles from camp, come to China Town, on Carson River ; elevation above the sea, 4,360 feet. This is a mining town of twelve houses, and contains about fifty Chinese. Including: all engaged in mining in a vicinity of six miles, the population is about one hundred and fifty. Can clear at these diggings, called the Gold Cation Flat Diggings, when there is water, from $5 to $8 per day per man. These diggings have been worked since 1852. The material is taken out of the ravine, or arroya, which is composed of sand and cobblestones, and the gold sifted from it by a “rocker” or “cradle.” Quality of the gold-dust, $13 to the ounce. There are some new diggings seven miles northwest from this place up Gold Canon, which were commenced last April, and which yield an average of $15 per day to the hand, with the cradle. Two men have been known, with one rocker, to make in one day $155; quality, $124 to the ounce. (It is in this vicinity that the late splendid discovery of silver-ore, called the Washoe mines, has been made.) The great difficulty is the want of water, and on this account the mines are worked only in winter. There is a talk of tapping Carson River high up,.or Bigler Lake, and thus supplying the mines with water. A rocker is a simple cradle with a sieve, through which the material passes on water being thrown upon it and itis rocked. The “long tom” is one or more long troughs connected, and a sieve at the end anda lower receiver. In this trough the material and water are introduced and the gold collected all along, the finest on the lowest platform or receiver. : China Town has two stores, one recently kept by E. Sam, a Chinese, who was drowned the other day in attempting to ford Carson River on horseback, and the other by Keller & Cohen. I am indebted to Mr. Long, who is at present in charge of E, Sam’s store, for the above information in relation to the mines of this region, and he has given me the prices of commodities, as follows: Sugar, 3 pounds for $1; coffee, 3 pounds for $1; beef, 17 and 18 cents per pound; bacon, 374 cents per pound; pota- toes, 8 cents per pound; flour, 16 cents; shoes, ordinary kind, $3; boots, (pegged,) $6 to $10; hickory shirts, $1.25; barley, 10 cents per pound; oats, 10 cents per pound; whisky, $3 per gallon. The timber they use is pine, and it is hauled twenty-five miles from Washoe Valley; cost at mill, $20 per thousand; at China Town, $40. Mr. Long conducted me to a room where a couple of the principal Chinamen were smoking opium. They were reclining, facing each other, on a kind of platform, their head supported by a stool or bench. Between them was a lamp burning. They had a pipe of about two feet long, the bowl of it being two-thirds of the distance from the mouth-end. One or the other keeps the bowl, charged with opium, constantly applied to the lamp, and, drawing hard, passes the smoke through the nose and mouth. Mr. Long says $8 worth of opium will last two persons about six months. It stupefies, rather than enlivens, and, when indulged in excessively, perfectly paralyzes the energies. He also showed me a room in which there were six of these fellows gambling. They _ have a large number of pieces, like dominos, and counters, and take a great deal of interest in the game; run through it with the greatest dexterity and rapidity. They REPORT AND JOURNAL. 91 are represented as being very fond of gambling when they have nothing else to do, and not unfrequently lose all their earnings in this way. These Chinamen have the characteristic look of their nation, the tawny color and peculiar eyes; shave the hair clear around to the top of the head, giving a peculiar effect to the forehead, and let the balance fall behind‘in a tail or plait. Their foreheads are retreating; eyes, hazel; wear wide pants and ordinary hickory (check) shirts. There are no women at this place. To proceed with route. At China Town we bear off somewhat from Carson River, one mile bringing us to forks of road; right leads to Johnstown, 1.5 miles off in Gold Cation. Six miles farther up, ina branch of Gold Cafion, are the new. rich gold-dig- eings referred to above. All along this emigrant-route, ever since we struck it, the bones of oxen attest the effects of the old Humboldt route, on account of poisonous water and grass along the Humboldt and desert, in destroying stock. Four miles from China Town, cedars 15 to 20 feet high appear on either side of the road on the mountains and in the valley—the first we have seen since leay- ing the Se-day-e Mountains. Seven and one-half miles farther brings us to Carson City, in Eagle Valley, at the east foot of the Sierra Nevada, where, at 5 p. m., we encamp. ‘The Sierra Nevada has appeared ahead of us to-day, towering high, covered with snow, and looking fine, covered as it is with tall pines from base to summit—a spectacle we have not seen before on the trip. Carson City has about a dozen small frame houses; two stores—Major Ormsby proprietor of one. Eagle Valley, in which it is situated, is of small extent but very fertile. A small stream courses through it, a large portion of which is expended in irrigation. The location is a good one, on account of its proximity to the new diggings in Gold Canon, (said to be the richest yet discovered,) about 7 miles off, and its commercial relations with Honey Lake and other valleys to the north. I am informed that this same system of fertile valleys lying between spurs from the Sierra Nevada, on its east side, continues for a very considerable distance both to the north and south of this valley. “Road to-day, except over a couple of sloughs of narrow width, good. Journey, 19 miles. Spent a very agreeable evening at Major Ormsby’s,* where I, for the first time since I left Camp Floyd, encountered the society of ladies. Mr. Crane, the former delegate to Washington in behalf of the claims of that section of country to a new Territory (Nevada), to be taken off from the western portion of. Utah, was present. Bae June 12, Camp No. 37, Carson City, Lagle Valley—Altitude above the sea, 4,587 feet. This morning at sunrise an overcoat not unpleasantly warm. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 44°. This camp-ground beautiful; the prospect the most pleasing and Eastern-States-like of any I have seen. It reminds me of a pastoral landscape of the lower Delaware, below Trenton. This is the first morning there has been dew on the erass sufficient to show on your boots. : Par parenthese—Mr. Reese, who has repeatedly been over the old route by way of Humboldt River, says it is objectionable, on account of high water in the spring overflowing the valley and forcing the road on the blutts, which are very sandy. ‘This *This gentleman, I notice by the papers, has since been killed by the Pi-Utes, against whom he was operating with a party of citizens. 92 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. high water affects the road for about 150 miles along the Humboldt and Thousand Spring Valley. It is also objectionable on account of the bad water (alkaline) and alkaline grass, which extends along the lower part of the Humboldt for 75 miles, and on account of the desert between the sink of the Humboldt and the sink of Carson, and the scarcity of feed from Ragtown, on Carson River, to Big Bend of Carson, about 30 miles. ‘Twenty-five per cent. of stock, he assures me, on the average, has been lost annu- ally-on the route from these causes. 'The Goose Creek and Bear River Mountains make it also useless in the winter, on account of snow, and the distance is greater than by my route. He also represents that all along the Humboldt, that is, for a distance of over 300 miles, there is no timber but small willows; none in Thousand Spring Valley, and none on Goose Creek. Poor prospect this for the magnetic telegraph. Whereas on this our outward route, except between the Champlin Mountains and the Go-shoot range (86 miles), and between the Se-day-e Mountains and Carson Lake (56 miles), the mount- ain-ranges are covered with pine, pifion, balsam, quaking ash, and mountain mahogany, all of which make the telegraph a feasible project, the maximum haul of the poles, except at the points stated, being not over 10 milegg* _ Leave Carson City at quarter past 5. Course southwardly, continuing on the old emigrant-road between the base of the Sierra Nevada and Carson River. In 34 miles cross Clear Creek, a beautiful stream running from the Sierra Nevada into Carson River. Nearly all these streams from the Sierra Nevada are so copious as to be ample for mill purposes, and the pines near (yellow and white or sugar) average probably 4 feet through, and sometimes attain, Mr. Reese assures me, a diameter of 10 and a height of 150 feet. Near Clear Creek approach again Carson River, and continue along it about 10 miles to Genoa. Noticed along the road the gallows on which the vigilance committee hung “Lucky Bill,” last June or July, a reported horse-thief and murderer. Was astonished that the relic of such a season of popular agitation and excitement should be left to be harped upon by every passer-by. Notice, also, several farms along the road, a very common mode of fencing being the laying of single trunks of large pines in a line between the fields. he cattle look very fat, and sleek; hogs in like excellent condition. These latter are said to thrive on the roots of the tuilla or rush. The butter of this valley is of a rich gold color, and is said to command a higher price than the California butter. This valley is good for the small cereals. Wheat and barley do well. Corn has been raised, but the birds and frosts generally destroy the crops; very little oats have been raised. A few peaches have been produced, but as yet no apples. Grapes have never been tried. All garden-vegetables, as also the strawberry, raspberry, and gooseberry, thrive. Potatoes are raised, but the cultivation of the sweet-potato has been a failure, and I am informed that they cannot be raised in California. The soil is generally irrigated. As a pastoral region it issuperb. Cattle on the hoof command 10 cents per pound. Barley brings about $3 per bushel. The trade heretofore has consisted principally in exchanging goods with emigrants for their stock. = % _ * My return route in respect to timber g as was found still better adapted to the telegraph For additional information in relation to the Humboldt River route, see Introduction, page 22, | +. Reached Genoa at half past 9 a.m. Journey, 12.9 miles; road good. Just as we v y on the deserts at either extreme, REPORT AND JOURNAL. 93 entered town, were saluted by the citizens with thirteen guns and the running up of the national flag, in honor of the party’s having successfully accomplished the object of the exploration—the opening of a new and short road across the Great Basin from Camp Floyd, and thus facilitating the mails and emigration. Encamped among some giant pines at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, just upon the southern edge of the town, and on a gushing stream of pure water which courses down from the mountain. Our posi- tion is so high on the base of the mountain that we can overlook a large portion of the valley; and a beautiful one it is, fenced off, as it appears, into inclosures, and dotted _ with cattle. The sheen of the river (Carson), in its present high stage, discovers its course along the valley. Genoa, at the present time, has 28 dwelling-houses, 2 stores, 2 hotels, 1 printing establishment, and 1 electric-telegraph office. There are also in it and vicinity 2 grist- mills, 4 saw-mills, and 1 under way. Population, between 150 and 200. ‘The town was commenced in 1855: It is now in connection, by electric telegraph, with San Francisco, 260 miles distant,* and, three days before we reached this place, our arrival at Walker’s River had been announced in the papers of the Golden City. Indeed, we had no sooner arrived than I received a telegraphic dispatch from Col. Fred. A. Bee, the president of the Placerville and Saint Joseph’s Overland Telegraph, inquiring about my route for the proposed telegraph across the continent. Replied that as Iwas going immediately to San Francisco, through Placerville, I would be happy to talk with him on the subject when I should meet him. The Indian agent, Maj. Fred. Dodge, has called upon me, and extended all the civilities of a courteous and refined gentleman. He is the agent of the Pi-Ute and Washo tribes of Indians living in this region, and has politely furnished me with the following information in regard to them, which I give in his own language: _ ©The Pi-Ute nation number from 6,000 to 7,000 souls. They inhabit Western Utah from Oregon to New Mexico. They are divided into bands of about 200 strong each, commanded by a subchief. The head-chief of the nation is Wan-a-muc-a (the giver). The largest portion of the nation is generally to be found in the vicinity of the principal rivers and lakes of the Great Basin, viz, Humboldt, Carson, Walker, Truckee, Owen’s, Pyramid, and Mono. The Pi-Utes resemble, in appearance, manner, and customs, the Delawares on our Missouri frontier, and with judicious management and assistance from the General Government, they would equal in three years their brother Delawares in agricultural or other advancements made by them toward civiliza- tion. The Pi-Utes are poor, but honestly inclined. They are also the most interesting and docile Indians on the continent. “The Wa-sho nation number about 900 souls, and inhabit the country along the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada from Honey Lake on the north to Clara River, a branch of Walker's, on the south, a distance of 150 miles. They are divided into three bands of about 300 each, commanded by three head-chiefs. Deer Dick’s band is on the north, in the vicinity of Honey Lake and Long Valley; Captain Jim’s band is in ~~ “* Phe telegraph has since been carried (as has been before remarked in Introduction) eastwardly beyond this point on my route as far as Fort Churchill, at the bend of Carson River, and it is the intention to continue it all the way to Great Salt Lake City, and, indeed, to the Platte River, which has already been reached at Fort Kearney from 94 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the center of the nation, and occupies the valleys of Steamboat, Wa-sho, Eagle, and Carson. Pas-sonke’s band lives and claims Little Valley and the valleys on the head- waters of the Rio Clara. The Washos are not inclined to agricultural pursuits, nor any other advancement toward civilization. They are destitute of all necessaries to make life even desirable. ‘There is not one horse, pony, or mule inthe nation. They are peaceable, but indolent. In the summer these houseless wanderers stay around the shores of Lake Bigler, in the Sierra Nevada. In the winter they lie about in the - artemisia (wild sage) of their different localities, subsisting on a little grass-seed.” * The vocabularies of these tribes of Indians, for which I am also indebted to the major, will be found in Appendix P. Besides Major Dodge, other gentlemen of the place have called on us, all of whom express themselves very much gratified at the success of our expedition, and tender us all the hospitality in their power. Major Dodge is going to-morrow to Placerville, with one of the head-chiefs of the Pi-Utes, Won-a-muc-a the younger, and two braves, and has extended to me an invitation to accompany him. It is necessary for me to go to San Francisco, on account of the party, and I therefore have gladly accepted the invitation, and will take advantage of the facilities which he offers. Now that we have reached the termination of explorations westward, it may be well to briefly state the fruits of it. For the first 64 miles west from Camp Floyd, as far as Short Cut Pass, the route we have come was that I explored and established in October, 1858; thence to Hasting’s Pass, 70 miles, it was Chorpenning, the Cali- fornia mail-contractor’s extension of my route, made by him subsequently to my exploration in the winter of 1858—’59. To Hasting’s Pass, Chorpenning’s extension was pretty direct toward Genoa, but from that point, on account of his agent, Mr. Egan, failing, as I was informed, to get through in a southwest direction to Carson Lake, he was foreed to take a northwardly course, and join the Humboldt route at Gravelly Ford, thus making a great detour in that direction. Finding Chorpenning’s continuation of my route of last fall wrong from Hasting’s Pass, I struck southwest- wardly from that point for the north bend of Walker's River, and was rewarded in getting a route which most favorably compares with the old route from Camp Floyd (via City of Rocks and Humboldt River, and with Chorpenning’s route), as follows: From Great Salt Lake City to Genoa, by City of Rocks, Humboldt River, . and Carson River, as given me by my guide, Mr. Reese, who has been several times over the route, and says it was measured by some foretener 220. ee oo Se os SSE. os ee ee 813 miles. Great Balt Lake City to. Camp Floyd... .. 2. 530,33. 2 4Q Total from Camp Floyd to Genoa by old Humboldt River road... 853 Camp Floyd to Genoa by Chorpenning’s route, via Hasting’s Pass and Humboldt River and Carson River, 64-+-170+455...........__.. 689 « oe ue _ Camp Floyd to Genoa, by my: route. .6 122 72. 9.. 1 s BBR 4 a * For other information in relation to the Indians of Utah Territory than is contained in my Journal and Intro- REPORT AND JOURNAL, 95 Difference in favor of my route over the old City of Rocks and Humboldt iver TOO. Gps 415 ea oo UR CS Os ER 288 miles. Difference in favor of my route over Chorpenning’s, or the present mail VOUS se oe Ae SLSR Bees eS ee 124° “ Thus we have got a route over which we have conducted our 14 wagons without any great difficulty, and which, except at the extreme ends (over Great Salt Lake Desert and over the desert just to the east of Carson Lake), furnishes an abundance of scrub cedar on the mountain-ranges, which will require a maximum haul of only about 10 miles, to supply the telegraphic lines with the necessary poles (if they will answer by splicing) for the support of the wire. Over the deserts referred to the maximum haul would be, on the Salt Lake Desert, about 50 miles; on the Carson Lake Desert, about 25 miles. The route, also, is quite well supplied with the best of grass and water, except over the deserts mentioned. (The sequel will show that I shortened the route still further on my return to Camp Floyd; ahd, also, on my more southern route, reduced the haul of cedars for telegraphic purposes over the Salt Lake Desert to 15 or 20 miles*). June 13, Camp No. 38, Genoa.—Longitude, 119° 40’ 30”; latitude, 38° 59° 33”; magnetic variation, 16° 40’ E.; elevation above the sea, 4,824 feet; thermometer at 6 a. m., 54°.50; After giving directions to Lieutenants Smith and Putman to keep up the astronomical observations, and Lieutenant Putnam to make an examina- tion of the old road as well as the Daggett trail oyer the first range of the Sierra Nevada into Lake Valley, leave the party in the charge of Lieutenant Murry, and start for San Francisco, 260 miles distant, via Placerville and Sacramento, at 8 a. m., with Major Dodge. Expect to be absent about 12 days, during which our animals and party will be able to recruit. Besides the three Pi-Utes mentioned yesterday, the Major has with him his interpreter, Dick, a lad about 15 years of age, and as bright a boy as I have seen for a long while. The major takes a great deal of interest in him, and looks after his welfare as if he were his own son. We all go mounted and take one pack-mule, the mule I ride, as well as a share of the pack-mule, having been kindly tendered to me by the major. Our course lay for a short distance up Carson Valley, or southwardly on old road, In 1.5 miles from Genoa, pass Warm Springs, at foot of Sierra Nevada; 1.5 miles farther brought us to the Daggett trail, which we take over the east range of the Sierra Nevada to Lake Valley; the traveled wagon-road which we have left continu- * The distance from Great Salt Lake City to Genoa on old Humboldt River route, as given above, may be incor- rect, and I suspect it is so; ‘but, in the absence of anything official at the time, I could find nothing more reliable, Since my return to Washington, I find that Captain Marcy, in his “ Prairie Traveler,” lays down the distance trom Salt Lake City to Reese’s ranch (now Genoa) by this route as 774 miles. The case will then stand thus, regarding the cuts-off I made on my return to Camp Floyd: | From Salt Lake City to Genoa, according to Marcy.-.--- enews 774 miles. From Camp Floyd to Salt Lake City (Simpson) pps eagle ees eae ee" From Camp Floyd to Genoa by old Humboldt River road, then : -. S14 ¥ From Camp Floyd to Genoa, by my more northern route and “ cuts-off ” seste 531 * - Difference in favor of my shortest route over old Humboldt route from Camp Floyd - 283 . Difference in favor of my shortest route from Salt Lake City ts : Difference in favor of my route over Chorp 96 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ing along the foot of the Sierra Nevada, on its east side, from 18 to 20 miles, before turning to the west to cross the range. Find the trail up to Daggett Pass quite steep. It runs along the side-hill, and at times is dangerous. It is possible, however, that a better grade might be got along the ravine for a road. In about 3.5 miles from foot of the Sierra reach summit of pass, 7,180 feet above the sea, and lying about 4 miles to the northwest of us could be seen Lake Bigler, beautifully embosomed in the Sierra.* Descending by a tolerable grade, 2.5 miles farther brought us to Lake Valley, lying between the east and west ranges of the Sierra, which we thread in the direction of its length about 12.5 miles southwardly to mail-station, which we reach at half-past 1, ‘and where we dine. Distance from Genoa, 21.5 miles. The ride this morning the most charming I have had for a long while. Lake Valley is like a beautiful park, studded with large, stately pines. The glades between the trees are beautifully green, and the whole is enlivened by a pure, babbling mount- ain-stream, the most southern and principal branch of the Truckee, coursing along northwardly to its expansion, Lake Bigler. The pines of various kinds are very large, and attain a height of probably from 100 to 150 feet. heir diameter is not unfrequently as much as 8 feet, and they sometimes attain the dimension of 10 feet. Just before we reached the mail-station, noticed a splendid waterfall or caseade, a tributary of the Truckee, tumbling into the valley from the west range. Saw in the valley a large herd of cattle and hogs, all looking finely. Indeed, I never have seen more sleek, saucy-looking cattle anywhere. At the mail-station met Mr. 1. A. Thompson, the celebrated Norwegian, who ecar- ried the mail across the Sierra Nevada, on snow-shoes, from about the middle of last April to fore part of May. He represents the snow to have been, in places where he had to go, 10 feet deep. One of the hands at the mail-station told me that in the spring the snow at one time was as high as the top of the window (pointing to it), that is about 8 feet. This between the two ranges in Lake Valley. Thomp- son says that the first wagon went over the road across the mountains about 20th of May, the snow preventing it before. | After dinner proceeded on journey. Just after leaving mail-station, commence ascending, by a side cut, the west range of the Sierra Nevada, and directly under the spray of the falling cataract mentioned before, which comes down from a height of several hundred feet, and rushes directly over the road. In about 2 miles from foot, attain summit of range, or Johnston’s Pass (altitude above the sea, 7,222 feet). Grade of road good until near top, where it is rather steep. This grade is the commence- ment of a road which the people of El Dorado and Sacramento Counties, of California, at the expense of some $50,000, have made from Lake Valley across the west range of the Sierra Nevada; and quite well has the work been laid out and executed. Tam told the superintending engineer was Mr. Sherman Day, of San José, Cal., who bears the reputation of being quite accomplished in his profession. As soon as we attained the summit of the range, Mr. Thompson took us toa point where we obtained a fine view of Lake Bigler. After reaching summit, soon find * Frémont, in his report of 1845 and 1846, calls this sheet of water Mountain Lake ; on his map of 1848 he calls _ it Lake Bonpland. It now is known by the name of Lake Bigler, and according to the report of Mr. George H. Goddard, _ of California, “ it is a noble sheet of water, from 15 to 20 miles in length by 6 or 7 in width.” REPORT AND JOURNAL. 97 yourself passing along the north side of the South Fork of the American River, anda more roaring, rushing, cataract mountain-stream I never beheld. Indeed, the views along this stream, and at the Slippery Ford, are superbly magnificent. The mountains at Slippery Ford, 6 miles from Johnston’s Pass, are a mass of granite from bottom to top. Major Dodge and myself would ever and anon stop to contemplate and discourse upon the beauty of the prospect. Indeed, my ride to-day can never be effaced from my mind. Mr. Thompson showed me stumps, or broken-off trees, that he looked down upon last winter and spring when he carried the mail across the mountains on snow-shoes. This corroborates his statement that the depth was as much as 10 feet. He said he found a man in Lake Valley, last winter, that for 12 days had remained at one spot, not able to move on account of his feet having become frozen. All this time he lived on a little flour. At half-past 5 reach Barry’s, where we stop for the night; by the way we have come (Daggett’s trail) 33 miles from Genoa. Judge Child, of Genoa, and Mr. Thompson, also put up here. The soil, after crossing first range of the Sierra, is generally of a reddish hue, and is a sort of arenaceous loam. The valley of the South Fork of the American below Slippery Ford is called Strawberry Valley, on account of its being prolific of this fruit. Mr. Thompson showed me how he walked on his snow-shoes last winter. They are smooth pieces of board from 6 to 8 feet long, 6 inches broad at forepart, 4 at middle, and less at ends, the forepart slightly turned up like a sleigh-runner. A little in front of the middle portion a strap or thong is nailed across, in which he slips his toes, then there is a cleat nailed across, against which the heel of his shoe strikes or pushes. He then gently lifts the shoe, and at the same time pushing it along with his foot, causes himself to slide first with one shoe and then with the other. He has at the same time a stick against which, as he goes down hill, he supports himself, and which he uses also as a break. He says he has a standing bet with any one that, let him select his ground along a side-hill, he will travel a mile a minute; that he sometimes passes over precipices of 10 feet, and would land at a distance of 20 feet, and still stand upright. When a child in Norway he used, with other boys, to practice this kind of leap, and thus made himself an expert. I notice that the telegraph-line along the road over the mountains is, in many instances, supported by living trees as posts. Also noticed a number of coils of wire lying along the road, which are intended to be used in extending it from Genoa toward Camp Floyd and Great Salt Lake City. : | June 14, Barry's, on South Fork of American River, Sierra Nevada.—Bunks erected for travelers at this stopping-place, and blankets and comforters for bed-clothes. The luxury of sheets not yet gone into. House of split clapboards, and quite rude, but yet a fair mountain-house in a new country, and table quite good. Renewed journey at 10 minutes before 6. Met a four-horse comfortable-looking stage going over to Genoa, to run between that place and the new gold-mines on the Rio Ida, the East Fork of Walker’s River, 90 miles from Genoa. These placers were dis- covered in the fall of 1858, and are pronounced very rich. The gold is said to be 13 BU . - called the Placerville and Saint Joseph Telegrap 98 _ EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. worth $18 per ounce, it being mostly shot-gold, and not in the dust. Two miles from Barry’s a side cut of excellent grade commences, which continues for 25 miles, and is a piece of road which would do credit to any of our older States. Its defects are in not being sufficiently wide for teams of more than two draught animals to turn (except with the greatest care) its sometimes sharp angles, and in places it does not admit of teams passing each other. These defects should be rectified. Ten miles from Barry’s reach Boswell’s, a very good log-house, and place of refreshment and lodging. Seven- teen miles more, at 114 o’clock, reach Peter Burdie’s, where we dine and feed animals. Leave at 25 minutes of 2. One and a half miles from Burdie’s, cross South Fork of American River to south side by bridge, and do not see it again till we reach Sacra- mento. ‘To this point (the bridge) we have been traveling from summit of Johnston’s Pass along north side of this river, which at times we could see as much as 1,000 feet below us, and always raging, rushing, and making a din, out of which we have not been since we got on it. As yesterday, until about 5 miles back, the granite has shown itself in magnificent proportions. | As soon as we cross the American Fork we emerged from the mountainous region, and the country became more open and rolling. Farms, farm-houses, and improve- ments generally, increase as you approach Placerville, and the fences, fruit-trees (principally peach), wheat, potatoes, gardens, domestic pigeons, reddish Maryland color of the soil, and large umbrageous oaks, which become more frequent, interming- ling with the pines, make you almost think you are east of the Rocky Mountains in an old settled country. Indeed, until my present exploration, I have had no proper idea either of the Sierra Nevada or of the country at its western base. The transit from the arid plains east of the Sierra Nevada to the quick teeming country lying on its western slope is most singularly marked and sudden, and shows how much, irrespective of latitude, the laws of climate and production are dependent upon physical circumstances and features of country. Pass a tavern called Sportsman Hall, 6.5 miles from bridge over South Fork of American, and 12 miles more brought us, about sundown, to Placerville, a mining-town on a small tributary of the South Fork of the American, 79.5 miles by Daggett’s trail from Genoa. This town is built principally upon one street, and is divided into what is called upper and lower town. The latter is the business portion, and has a great number of stores; some pretty white cottages, with roses clambering up the porticoes, and gardens filled with vegetables and fruit-trees, being visible. Pits seen every- where, where they have been digging for gold, and the little stream coursing through the town is red with the sediment, which has been the result of gold-washings. The streets, I notice, are filled with people, and the hotels are full, caused by the assemblage of a convention for the nomination of county officers. Thanks, however, to the kind- ness and forethought of friends, a room has been reserved for Major Dodge and myself at the Carey House. Population of town about 3,500, and of township, 10,000. Was called on by several influential men of the place, who congratulated us upon the suc- | __ ¢ess of our expedition in getting across the Great Basin and shortening the central overland mail-route somuch. Col. Fred. A. Bee, the president of the central overland, h Company, was particularly gratified, REPORT AND JOURNAL. . 99 and remarked to me that I might consider my route as adopted for the line. I told him to wait till I could report from Camp Floyd the results of our exploration for a shorter return-route before he decided, for I believed I could get a still better one, which would be from 30 to 50 miles shorter. : June 15, Placerville—Remain here to-day to perfect arrangements about sending a few supplies over the Sierra Nevada to party at Genoa. Require some extra wagon- tongues and couplings, and think it well to provide ourselves with a little forage and a few other things to meet contingencies. Visited steam-crushing quartz-mill in the city for the extraction of the gold. It has 20 vertical iron tamps, about 2 inches in diameter, placed in upright frames, and so fixed with projecting shoulders that a horizontal shaft, turning on its axis and provided also with projections, lifts the tamps, and their own weight is such that they fall heavily and tamp or crush the quartz, which is placed in a box at their feet. A stream of water is constantly passing through the box, and carries the débris and gold over an inclined apron, on which are arranged, horizontally, slats or riffles, which catch the gold as it passes. The quartz is conveyed to the mill from the mine, near, in cars, which run on a railway from a shaft or tunnel which at the present time has penetrated the bluff hori- zontally about 200 yards, and is about 40 yards below the superior surface of the ground. I entered the shaft and saw the miners at work getting out the masses of quartz. It is singular that in any of the quartz I saw I could not, with the eye, detect the slightest speck of gold; and yet I am told the investment in the business is a good one. Visited, with Major Dodge, Colonel Bee and lady, and were regaled with fresh strawberries from their garden, and brandied peaches, which were the first foretaste I had had of the fine rich fruits for which this region is famous. The colonel has a pretty cottage residence, tastefully adorned with flowers and fruit-trees, and conspicu- ous in his garden is a windmill, by which the water is raised from a well and so con- ducted by small canals as to irrigate the soil. The windmill, I notice, is quite a com-— mon feature in the landscape of this country, and has become so on account of the necessity of irrigating the soil to make it productive, to which purpose it is applied. Ordered a bill of supplies to be transported to Genoa, at 7 cents per pound. The usual charge, I am told, is about 5 cents, but in order to insure their being carried over - immediately, I am obliged to pay 7 cents. One cent per pound is to be forfeited if not delivered by the 22d instant. The cause of this heavy charge for transportation is the steep, rocky character of the portion of the road over the east range of the Sierra Nevada, between Lake Valley and Carson Valley; which I shall examine on my return to Genoa, and on which the Californians have expended no labor, for the rea- son, doubtless, that it lies mostly, if not entirely, in Utah. June 16, Placerville—Left with Major Dodge for Folsom, 28 miles distant, at 6 a. m., Pi-Ute interpreter Dick in company. Conveyance the finest kind of stages, and drawn by large, strong, weil set up, stylish horses. Fare to Sacramento, $6. Break- fast at Duroc’s. At Folsom took railroad-cars for Sacramento, the capital of the State, 23 miles distant, which we reached about 1. Country between Placerville and Fol- som beautifully rolling; between Folsom and Sacramento, very level. It is generally 100. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. cultivated, and beautifully rich with grain, which is being harvested, and the neat board fences and houses everywhere attest the rapid growth of the State and the enterprising character of the people. The pine is seldom seen after you leave Placer- ville, and from Folsom west the oak is almost entirely the native tree. They are very large and umbrageous, and being interspersed in a park-like way, give a beautiful aspect to the landscape. The ugly stumps of the recently-cleared lands in our older States are nowhere to be seen. . At Sacramento there were nine steamers, great and small, lying at the wharves. The Eclipse, in which we took passage at 2 o'clock for San Francisco, is like our Mississippi boats, and as handsome, comfortable, and neat as the best of them. Fare to San Francisco, $5, and $1 additional for dinner. Distance, 120 miles. Had but little time to glance at the city, but saw enough to convince me of its business thrift. Hope to see more of it on my return. Saw Mr. Upson, editor of the Union, who expressed himself as delighted with the success of our expedition across the Great Basin. The Sacramento is a noble stream, probably about 200 yards wide. Its color quite red, like all the streams I have seen this side of the foot of the Sierra Nevada, caused, I am informed, by the universal use of the water for washing gold out of the soil, which is of a red color. At the present time the river is from 4 to 6 feet below the top of its banks, and at times is said to overflow them. Indeed, in order to pro- | téct the city of Sacramento from inundation, a levee has been made all around it. The country between Sacramento and the bay of San Francisco lies very low and level, as far as the eye can reach, and everywhere looks rich and productive. Windmills for purposes of irrigation are a prominent characteristic. As you approach San Fran- cisco the land assumes a higher and bolder aspect, and the mainland, as well as the islands, become remarkable on account of their peculiarly bold and convex shape from the water up; and the brownish-red colored oats, at this season of the year, occasion- ally relieved by dark patches of timber, give a very unique character to the landscape. Touched at Benicia, where there is a military post, and had a chat with Maj. George P. Andrews and Lieut. Job J. Chandler, Second Artillery, who, seeing me in military attire, introduced themselves. Reached San Francisco at a quarter after 9 in the even- ing, and put up at the International Hotel. June 18, San Francisco —lIntending to leave to-morrow on my return to Genoa, have only time to see friends. Find, however, the place exceedingly city-like. Has © many fine, substantial houses. The streets, especially Montgomery street, are full of people. Everything seems to be done on the high-pressure principle. Rents, I am informed, are still very high. Visited the market and saw a splendid exhibition of vegetables. They have the largest strawberries here I have ever seen. Notice the egg of a wild water-fowl, which is found on the islands and exposed for sale. Called on a number of old friends, principally officers of the Army. Was invited to take a ride about the city and suburbs, but had not the time. The cool breeze from the Pacific, generally in the afternoon, makes winter-clothing agreeable even in the depth of summer. Messrs. McCrellish & Woodward, of the Alta-California, are anxious that I should allow Mr. Walter Lowry, their city commercial correspondent, and who is an REPORT AND JOURNAL. 101 invalid, to accompany us on our return to the States. He is desirous to see his friends and relatives once more in that quarter, and thinks that a trip across the plains will restore him to health. In consequence of the rough character of the country, I have demurred until I could see him personally at Placerville. June 19, San Francisco—Having transacted all my business, at 4 p.m. Major Dodge and myself took passage on board the steamer for Sacramento, on our return to Genoa, $7.50 fare for passage and half of state-room. I leave with a great deal of regret, feeling that my visit has been so short as scarcely to have permitted me to see any- thing; but duty requires me to join my party without delay. The harbor of San Francisco, which we now see by daylight, is doubtless one of the boldest in the world. The grand characteristics are its commodiousness, and, as I have before stated, bold, convex character of its islets and headlands, and the peculiar brown or russet color of the face of the country, caused by the all-prevailing wild oats in their present ripe — condition. June 19, Sacramento—Reached this city in the night. Put up at Saint George Hotel, General C. J. Hutchinson proprietor and landlord. In the morning Major Dodge and myself went to Episcopal church with Mrs. Hutchinson and another lady, the general having politely extended to us seats in his carriage. The whole style of the services and the sermon, as well as of the church, carried me back to the happy occa- sion, when, with my own family and friends, I had, more than a year previous, been enabled to join them in these sacred duties. Among the gentlemen who have called upon me and showed us a great deal of attention is Mr. James R. Hardenburgh, an old schoolmate and fellow-townsman of mine, from New Brunswick, N. J. We had not met for 28 years, and, of course, the pleasure was correspondingly enhanced. I must also acknowledge the kind tender of services of Mr. M. 8. Brocklebank, the brother-in-law of Governor Weller, who made himself known to me, and treated me very civilly. The city is full of strangers, drawn here by the State convention, which is about to meet, to nominate candidates for State offices. Among the distinguished is Governor Denver, whom I last saw at Fort Leaven- worth, just before I left for Utah, in the spring of 1858. This city is very well built, considering its age; has a number of fine dwellings, and the country around it is remarkably rich and productive. . June 20, Sacramento.—Took cars for Folsom at 7, and arrived at Placerville at 2. Settled with Mr. Richardson for supplies, which have been forwarded to Genoa accord- ing to agreement. Was introduced by Colonel Bee to Mr. Walter Lowry, the corre- spondent of the Alta-California, the gentleman Mr. McCrellish, of San Francisco, spoke to me about. Saw at once his feeble state of health would not permit him to endure a journey across the continent, and tried” to dissuade him from accompanying us. He will, however, not heed my advice; and my hope is that, if he finds the journey across the Sierra Nevada too fatiguing, he will yet give up the idea of continuing on with us from Genoa. June 21, Placerville—Left at 93 o'clock, with Major Dodge, Mr. Walter Lowry, and Mr. Van Duyck, for Genoa, retracing as far as Lake Valley our old route. Our conveyance is an ambulance, which the major has had made at this place. Our driver 102 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. is the famous Norwegian, Thompson, of whom I have before spoken; Pi-Ute Dick is also along. Stopped for the night at Peter Burdie’s, 20 miles from Placerville. June 22, Peter Burdie’s, Sierra Nevada—Left at 5 a. m., and reached Yankee’s, or mail-station, in Lake Valley, 40 miles from Burdie’s, and staid all night. I notice that, after leaving the 25-mile side-hill grade, before spoken of, and before reaching Johnston’s Pass, the road is very rocky, and in many places steep, and, like the portions mentioned under date of June 14, should be improved. June 23, mail-station, Lake Valley, Sierra Nevada—Elevation above the sea, 6,311 feet. In order wo get over to Genoa as early as possible, left Major Dodge at station, and took passage in, the mail-stage, leaving at 3 a.m. Passengers, a lady and child and two men, with myself. Driver a famous whip, but who, unfortunately, had all _ night long been carousing with some others at the station, and was quite drunk when he started. He seemed, however, to be sober enough to ask me to sit with him outside, and, as I thought, that I might take the lines if there should be occasion. Had scarcely left, before, on account of the darkness of the night, the mules got out of the road, and came near breaking the stage by passing between two stumps. Being on the box, I was enabled to draw up the team in time, not, however, without the loss of a whipple-tree. The next obstacle was the bridge, from the farther half of which the puncheon flooring had been removed by some mischievous persons during the night, and piled up on the bank.* I got off, and, with the assistance of one of the passengers, who was, like the driver, a little boosy, replaced the flooring, a space of about 2 feet being left on the farther side, on account of a deficiency of material. Nothing daunted, however, the driver rushed over, and fortunately gained the opposite bank without accident. After this, in ascending the acclivity from Lake Valley to summit of Luther’s Pass, 5 miles from mail-station, had a very serious time. All hands out to enable him to get up the hill. Driver so drunk as not to know what to do, and yet as obstinate as a mule; slashes the animals all around, but yet in such a way as not to make them work together; the consequence is a dead halt. Was glad of it, for the reason that if he could have got to the summit before he became sober he would have dashed us all to pieces in his descent on the other side. At last, just before reaching summit, the stage upset and broke the tongue. Luckily, at my suggestion, all were out at the time. Here was a dilemma. I helped to get the stage out of the road. The driver then took his mules and went down to the next house on the road, for a wagon. About an hour after, Major Dodge appeared with his ambu- lance, and kindly took the lady and myself in with him, and left Mr. Van Duyck and Dick to follow in the stage. In ahout 4 miles, met driver returning with a wagon, a good deal sobered and subdued. At about 9 o’clock reach Woodford’s, at the mouth of Carson River Cation, where we stopped and got breakfast. The road from Lake Valley to mouth of Carson Cation, where the fork debouches from the mountains into the valley of Carson River, a distance of 12 or 13 miles, is the worst portion of the whole road over the Sierra Nevada. The ascent from Lake Valley * The breaking of the whipple-tree I consider providential and a blessing, since without its occurrence we would _ all have been upset in the creek, and our lives lost or bones broken. The carousing at the mail-station and the taking up of half the bridge was, as I think, all done by the parties who instigated it to rob the mail, Indian agent, and _ mnyself, who, it was doubtless well known, had gold on account of the expedition. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 103 to summit of Luther’s Pass is very steep, and the road is filled with tremendous rocks, which should have been removed. It is astonishing, considering this is a portion of the great emigration route over the continent, that Congress has not done something toward ameliorating it. There is no portion of my route from Camp Floyd, though the greater portion of it is entirely new, so bad as this. If a road can at all be got over the Daggett trail, which is probable, it ought, by all means, to be done, both on the score of distance and quality of road. At least $30,000 should be appropriated for the portion between Carson Valley and Johnston’s Pass, and $10,000 for the portion to the west of said pass. Several bridges to be built across fork of Carson River in canon. Reached Genoa at 4 p.m. Road from mouth of Carson Cation good. Dis- tance, 19 miles. Total journey from mail-station in Lake Valley, 31 miles. Lieu- tenant Murry reports that matters have been going on well during my absence. The good citizens paid my party the compliment of a public ball last evening, which, they informed me, passed off much to the satisfaction of every one. In consequence of Major Dodge and myself having been delayed on the route longer than we had anticipated, we were deprived of the privilege of being present. Paid off several of the party and settled outstanding accounts. RETURN TO CAMP FLOYD. June 24, Genoa, Camp No. 1—Thermometer at 4.50 a. m., 65°. Concluded settlement -of accounts, and at 7 a.m. we took up our march on our return to Camp Floyd. Mr. Lowry will not listen to any advice in opposition to his accompanying . us, and I, therefore, think it my duty to acquiesce, though I feel morally certain that he cannot survive the trip. Mr. Reese, though a citizen of Genoa, returns with us as guide, and I have sent him, Ute Pete, and two other persons in advance, to provide for improvement of route, by taking a short cut from bend of Carson to south side of Carson Lake, and to explore for passage through the mountain-range to the east of the sink of Carson. Having been politely invited to dine at Mr. Dorsey’s, who _ lives 7 miles from Genoa, on our road, Lieutenant Murry, Mr. Lowry, Mr. Smith, of Genoa, Mr. Lee, and myself stopped for a few hours, and were kindly entertained by him and his lady. Mr. and Mrs. Noteware, kind neighbors of the family, were present. Train reached Carson City early in the afternoon, and party encamped. We reached it about dark. Journey, 13.8 miles. Route the same as traveled on out- ward journey. In the evening were visited by Major Ormsby and lady, and other persons, who take a kind interest in the success of our expedition. June 25, Camp No. 2, Carson City—Had the first cool night I have experienced for some time. Consequence, a refreshing sleep. Moved at 5 a.m. In 11.7 miles reach Chinatown, about 9.30 a.m. Altitude above the sea, 4,360 feet. Here leave our old road, and immediately cross Carson River by ford, and take route along river on south side. Depth of water, 3.5 feet. Wagons barely escaped receiving water in them. One forage-wagon capsized. All the rest got over without difficulty. By 11 all across. Five miles from ford, after crossing some bad sloughs, which may be obviated by taking higher ground, reach camping-place for the night. Journey, 17.2 — miles. 104 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. June 26, Camp No. 3, Carson Valley—KFlevation above the sea, 4,300; thermom- eter at 5a.m.,49°. Mosquitoes during the night terrible. Moved at 5 a.m. Continued along an old road on south side of Carson River for 2 miles, where we join, opposite Pleasant Grove, our old outward track, and continued on same 12.6 miles to east foot of ugly hill referred to June 9, which we found we could not, as we hoped, evade by passing between it and the river. Going east, however, the hill is not bad. The difficulty, as before stated, is in the ascent from the east side. After attaining valley on east side of hill, we left our outward track and old road, and turned to the left down the valley to within a few hundred yards of Carson River, and then go over another spur, and in about a mile get into valley of Carson River again, which we follow down 2 miles, and at 1.15 o’clock encamp on the river -bank. Journey, 18.2 miles. Our experience shows that the road from Pleasant Grove on north side of river better to Chinatown than that on south side. It is a characteristic of this valley that the miry, rich soil prevents your approaching the stream except at a few points, and these are the best camp grounds. Cottonwoods and willows line the banks. The mules fattened up wonderfully at Genoa, and they are now in prime condition. One of the guide’s party came into camp this afternoon, to show us our route to-morrow. June 27, Camp No. 4, Carson River—KElevation above the sea, 4,154 feet; ther- mometer at 4.30 a. m.,52$°. Resumed march at 5. Continued down valley of Car- son River eastwardly about 2 miles, when we leave it and strike for south end of Carson Lake. Low mountains, perfectly destitute of timber, and of a brownish-red- dish hue, range on either side and parallel to the river. Eight miles farther commence ascending a sandy ravine of slight grade, and in 3 miles attain summit of a low range 4,460 feet above the sea, from which, looking back, Carson River can be seen, well marked by the trees which line its banks. At intervals of 2.5 and 1.7 miles cross other low ridges, the last tolerably steep on east side; and 74 miles farther, at half past 5, reach south end of Carson Lake, where we encamp. Journey, 25.1 miles. Road first 10 miles good, next 12 miles sandy and heavy, last 3 miles over margin of lake and good. Fine grass and rushes where we are encamped. Fuel should be brought. June 28, Camp No.5, south end of Carson Lake.—Elevation above the sea, 3,840 feet; night refreshingly cool; thermometer at 4.58 a.m.,55°. Moved at 5 minutes after 5. Continue along shore of Carson Lake, at foot of point of low range or spur, being sometimes, on account of marsh, forced on first bench; and, after crossing an alkali flat, 7.5 miles from last camp, join our outward route, which we follow along the lake shore 4.5 miles farther and encamp. Journey, 12.2 miles. Road good. It was my intention to proceed farther along the lake, but Wilson Lambert, of the guide’s party, meeting us here, and informing me that Mr. Reese had not, as was hoped, been able to find a practicable route for wagons through the mountain-range i the east of the sink or more northern lake of Carson River, I am obliged to give up the idea of shortening my route in that direction, and to strike eastwardly and cut off the angle or cusp, caused on my outward route by the mistake of my guide, mentioned in my journal of June 5. There is an Indian trail, it appears, east from the sink of Carson, which is practicable for pack animals, but it would require considerable work eo make it 80 for wagons. The next camp-ground, according to guide, is 7 to 9 miles REPORT AND JOURNAL. 105 from here, and is represented as being alkaline, and the supply of water a small spring. The guide, it seems, supposed we could not reach this spring till to-morrow, and intended sending back a man, the day after, to report the camp beyond. The result is that as our animals will fare best where we are, I have ordered a halt, and the com- mand, as stated, to go into encampment. | I have noticed the pelican to-day floating on the lake and looming so large as to look like a small sail-boat. Our old road along the lake is at present overflowed by the water of the lake, and this when Carson River, which feeds it, has declined several feet. This shows that the lake does not sink and evaporate as fast as the water flows in. The best grass is to the north of our camp, to which we have driven our herd. Fuel should be brought. | June 29, Camp No. 6, east side of Carson Lake.—Elevation above the sea, 3,840 feet; thermometer at 6 a. m., 70°. In consequence of laying over at this camp for the benefit of the water and feed, and not wishing to tarry any longer than necessary at our next, where the water and grass are said to be very scant, and the latter alkaline, we did not move till 2 o’clock. At 11 o’clock a Mr. Ward, of Placerville, and three other persons, joined us, in order to accompany us on our route and thus have the benefit of our protection. The nearest direction for the road would be from south end of Carson Lake directly across eastwardly to Alkaline Valley, but though there is a low pass to admit of a pack-route, Mr. Reese has reported it too full of sand to allow the passage of ‘wagons. | We cross a low rocky ridge, 1 mile to the east of camp, and gradually bear to the right, and pass east of south along west edge of Alkaline Valley. Five and a half miles from camp come to grassy bottom, where there is some tolerable grass, and water probably within a foot of the surface. To the west of this place in the flat is a very ‘small warm spring of pretty good water. The efflorescence around it is not alkali, but pure salt. This being the case, the probabilities are that by digging wells in the vicinity where there are indications of water, good water might be obtained. Two anda half miles farther brought us to a spring 6 feet long, 2 deep, and 13 wide, which is sulphurous, but not unpalatable. There is a small patch of rushes in the vicinity, but no grass. This was the locality intended by our guide as our camping-ground for the night, but the water and grass proving insufficient we only water the animals scantily and then push on, believing it better to get to the best grass and water as soon as possible, though in order to do so we shall have to travel all night. Leave spring at 17 minutes after 5, and in 7.5 miles after crossing Alkaline Valley, join our outward route, near point of mountain, not far from our old camp, No. 30. Here we halt to take some coffee and feed the draught mules with some of the forage _ we have brought with us. The Alkaline Valley where we crossed it will evidently be impassable from mire in wet weather. In this case, persons coming from Carson Lake, should cross the valley about 7 miles north of dug-holes, and then cross on tolerably hard and high ground. | ye Leave at half past 11 p.m. Night pleasantly cool. Sust before daylight felt sppeenivalyy sleepy, and every once in a while, though riding ae the saddle, would : 14 BU 106 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. catch myself dozing. One of my assistants passed me at daybreak, at a gallop, as I thought to quickly arrive at our next camping-ground, but I had not continued far before I found him stretched out on the ground, fast asleep, holding his mule. Pro- ceeding on in advance of train, I arrived at old camp (No. 29), Middle Gate, 23.4 miles from halting place of last evening, at 7 a. m. June 30; but unfortunately found the water, which was running before, was now to be got only by digging, and that scantily. The train did not get in till 10. We shall turn out our mules to graze and let them drink what water they can in the dug wells. Meantime, get breakfast. Found Pete at this point, and Mr. Reese came in subsequently on his return from a reconnaissance _ still farther ahead. It should be remarked that there is not the slightest doubt that water in abundance could be got at this point (Middle Gate) by sinking suitable wells. Indeed, it exists now in springs in an arroyo near, and we got it in another easily accessible place by digging not more than two feetdeep. There is plenty of rock at hand to wall the wells. I think it very probable, also, that in ‘‘ West Gate,” 3.5 miles west of this, water may be obtained by digging. Indeed, the indications are decided, also, that in the moist places in the Alkaline Valley we passed over yesterday afternoon, where there is no alkaline efflorescence, water could be got in sufficient quantity, and that it possibly would be good. Ihave already noted that while portions of the desert are alkaline, some portions discover pure salt on the surface, and others none of any kind. There are several families of Pi-Utes at this Middle Gate, collecting grass-seed, which they sepa- rate from the husks by first rubbing the heads lightly under stones and then winnow, by throwing it up in the wind. Afterward they convert it into a flour by rubbing it by the hand between stones. I notice they use a variety of seeds in making flour These Indians have come from Carson Lake, and appear to be industrious and able- bodied. I doubt not their present life is such as to make them facile subjects of hus- bandry and civilization generally. Indeed, I have been assured that some of them do hire themselves out as laborers in California for considerable periods of time—as long as a year at a time—and that they have been found faithful and to work well. Resumed march at half past 1. In 1.75 miles cross an arroyo where the water yesterday, according to Mr. Reese, was running, but now exists in small pools. A small spring about two feet deep and one wide has-been found to the right of this point, about three-quarters of a mile. There is no grass about it. Water not unpalatably sulphurous, but too scant for anything of a party. After crossing an arroyo, or creek, immediately leave old road, and bearing off to the left or northwardly, pass up valley, bounded by the Se-day-e Mountains on our right and a range of high mountains on our left. Distance between crests probably fifteen to twenty miles. Trees for first time since leaving Carson Valley appear on the Se-day-e Mountains, and also on the range to our left toward its north portion Grass and water are visible in the ravines of the Se- day-e Mountains. Ten miles from Middle Gate reach, near base of Se-day-e Mountain, a small run- _ ning brook of icy-cold, pure water, which I call Cold Spring, and which, after running = oe a few hundred yards, sinks. A more refreshing drink than I obtained from this brook, afte is the eae wearisome travel of last night, I believe I never had. The men all REPORT AND JOURNAL. 107 seemed equally eager for the cold draught, and were equally delighted. But we have felt most for the poor animals, which have had but about a pailful apiece since yes- terday afternoon. They are so fagged, that they failed to get up with the wagons to the stream, and we are forced, therefore, to go into camp a mile from the water. The animals are driven to the water, and find an abundance of grass at the head of the creek. | : Mr. McCarthy reports water in the mountains to our left, or west of us; also says he found the water running at Gibraltar Gate. Journey, since 2 p. m. yesterday, 49.9 miles; road good. | . July 1, Camp No. 7, Cold Spring.—Elevation above the sea, 5,570 feet ; thermom- eter at 6.30 a. m., 72°. All hands had a most refreshing sleep last night, and it is astonishing what a restorative pure cold water is. At 9 a. m. Mr. Thompson, the Nor- wegian, before spoken of, arrived and brought our mail from Genoa. He left the latter place on the 27th ultimo, and came by the way of Ragtown, on Carson River, crossing over thence to south side of Carson Lake, where he got into our road. Mr. Reese, Pete, and four other men, including two soldiers, left about 10 o'clock to examine the country for the purpose of connecting our present route with the new proposed route, south of Ruby Valley. This examination will involve an extent of travel ahead of from 130 to 150 miles. Party and train decamped at 1 p, m., and continue northwardly up valley. After proceeding 11 miles come to rapid stream of pure water, 2 feet wide, } deep, flowing from the Se-day-e Range. On this we encamp. Willows fringe it, and grass is to be found higher up in the cafion. [I call the stream after one of my assistants, Mr. Kd- ward Jagiello, a Polish gentleman; his surname being difficult of pronunciation, I have preferred his Christian name as the appellation. Road, to-day, stony, on account of being on bench; farther down in the valley it would be smooth. Opposite our camp, in the range of mountains lying to the west of us, is a deep pass, in which can be plainly seen an extensive bottom of grass, and a creek running down from it into the valley in which we have been traveling. This creek, and the valley into which it flows, I propose calling after Major Frederick Dodge, the Indian agent of the Pi-Utes and Washos, who was so courteous to my party, and myself, at Genoa. The pass referred to, at the head of this creek, Mr. Reese has examined suf- ficiently to assure me that a good wagon-road can be got through it without a great deal of expense; and, as he pronounces, after examination, the corresponding pass in the next western range, lying nearest and east of the sink, or north lake of. Carson, capable of being also made practicable without a very great deal of labor, a wagon- road could be made direct from Dodge Valley through to the North Carson Lake, which would reduce the intervals between water to 15 miles. : He also reports that cedars are to be found on the mountain-ranges at this inter- val. This, then, would be also the route for the telegraph. The road might keep to the north or south of North Carson Lake, as might be deemed expedient, and the bend of Carson River could be. cut off from its crossing near north end of South Carson Lake, to a point higher up, so as to make the interval between grass and water 15 to 25 miles, as might be found best. This route, as I have already noted, the guide says 108 EXPLORATIONS AOROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. is now perfectly practicable for pack animals and stock, and is a most capital one for feed and water. It will at once, then, be seen that in the improvement of the route, at any future period, the change referred to should by all means be made. The Indians rep- - resent that the snow falls in Dodge Valley as much as 2 feet deep, and that in some winters there is scarcely any. They say that generally there is very little snow from Genoa to the Se-day-e Mountains. July 2, Camp No. 8, Edward Creek, Dodge Valley —Longitude, 117° 31’ 42’; lat- itude, 39° 28! 56"; altitude above the sea, 5,486 feet; thermometer at 6 a. m., 71°. Private Collamer returned from the guide’s party at sunrise, and reports that he rode till 12 midnight, then took 2 hours sleep, and his mule having given out, he came the rest of the way to camp on foot. He therefore is our guide to-day. My. Thompson left us at half past 7 for Genoa, and intends going by the way of North Carson Lake.* We at the same time decamp, our course being southeast up the cation of Edward Creek, the purpose being to cross the Se-day-e range. After traveling 7 miles, at half past 1, go into camp in superior grass, and on the babbling Edward Creek, three-fourths of a le short of summit of pass. The road up the cation is good and of excellent grade. A few patches of snow seen on the’ highest ridges of the Se-day-e Mountains. The pifon is almost the only sylva of the mountains. Willows, aspens, and cottonwood line the creek. It is quite refreshing to men and animals fo again toil in the cafions, where nature has been more lavish of the essen- tials of a good emigrant route, to wit, wood, water, and grass. July 3, Camp No. 9, Edward Creek Caiion—Se-day-e Mountains. Elevation above the sea, 7,022 feet; thermometer at 7 a. m., 76°. Remain in camp to-day, on account of its being Sunday, and the animals require the good mountain-grass which we have here in great abundance. Lieutenants Murry and Putnam and Mr. McCarthy went this morning through the pass at the head of Edward Creek to Wocdruff Valley, and report but little work to get through witli the wagons. July 4, Camp No. 9, Edward Creek Caton—Thermometer at 4.45 a. m., 62°.50. Move at 5.15 o’clock. Continue three-fourths of a mile up cation to summit of pass, 7,260 feet above the sea, and then turning eastwardly, in 1.5 miles, by branclr ravine, reach Kirby Smith’s Creek, the cafion of which we follow down, 3.25 miles, to where . Thompson, on his return to Carson Valley, at my request, Pe me the following letter on. the practi- cability of a more direct route than mine from Edward Creek to Carson Valley “a CARSON VALLEY, July 28, 1859. * = SIMPSON: “Sr: I have the honor to report to you my exploration on my return trip from your camp, on the 2d of J uly. “ay crossed Dodge Valley, and took up a cation about half-way from Dodge Creek to the low gap on the right. This cafion is well adapted to a wagon-road; it is about 200 yards wide, and bunch-grass stands 2 feet high and very thick. I crossed over this range, but the cafion on the other side is very steep and difficult to go down. Then I came into another valley similar to Dodge Valley, but there is no stream that reaches into the valley. 1 crossed over this valley, and another high range of mountains, and came to the ‘Forty-mile Desert,’ on the old Humboldt route, and struck the road 17 miles from Ragtown. “I did not see any route north of yours that is practicable, and I think yours is the only route in that vicinity that = be made passable. ** Respectfully, yours, “J. A. THompson.” _ This letter seems to militate against the report of my guide, Mr. Reese, on this subject, as given above (July 1); bat it doubtless is on —— of Mr. Thompson having gone to the north of the sink of Carson, and, therefore, much — north than he di : REPORT AND JOURNAL. 109 it debouches into Woodruff Valley, and, continuing along creek 3.3 miles farther, encamp on it. About 2 miles from summit of pass is a rock projecting from north -side toward the stream, which made it necessary for us to go behind and over the rock on its north side; though by twice bridging the stream, which is 8 feet wide and 1 deep, a road of unexceptionable grade could be made in the bottom of the creek. ‘Trains going east, like ours, could easily take our route, but going west, to do so they would be obliged to double up a steep ascent for about 100 feet. About 2 miles farther down the cajion there was another bad place where the teams had to double to ascend from the bottom of the creek to the top of the bank, and from which they again immediately descended to the creek. A very little labor, however, would be required to carry the road along the bottom at this point. Road to-day near summit of pass, east side, for 1.5 miles, very rough from rocks which ought to be removed, and requiring improvement at points along creek, as above. Journey, 8.5 miles. On rough portion of road broke tongue of large ambu- lance, a coupling-pole of one of the wagons, and a wheel of small ambulance. There is a great deal of grass in Smith’s Cafion and the adjoining ravines, and some little clover in the former; but the south pass, or that of our outward route, is still better in respect to pasture. The distance, also, is about 4 miles in favor of the more southern route, but in grade the more northern is much the best. I think it also probable, on account of the bottom of Smith’s Creek being moist and, therefore, miry early in the season, that until about the middle of June the route through the southern pass would be preferable for wagons; after that, however, the most northern route will be found the best. The truth is, both branches of the route should be made per- fectly practicable when the road is perfected, so that either can be taken at any time. The rocks along the Se-day-e Mountains to Edward Creek and through the pass to Woodruff Valley are porphyritic, of a brown color. Just after getting into camp, rain began to fall, the first we have had for several weeks. A rainbow also appeared Indians report deepest snow in winter in pass we -have come through to be 2.5 feet. : July 5, Camp No. 10, Smith’s Creek—W oodruff Valley. Elevation above the sea, 6,070 feet; thermometer at 4.45 a.m., 48°. The rain of yesterday, though slight, seems to have purified and refreshed the air. Decamped at 20 minutes after 5. Course north of east, directly toward our old pass between Woodruff. and Reese © Valleys. In 3.7 miles get into our outward route, and follow it till near Reese’s River, where we leave it to the left, and encamp on river, about 2 miles above old Camp No. 25. This river takes its rise about 5 miles above or to the south of our camp, in some pure, cold springs in the valley, and also receives accession from streams from the Pe-er-re-ah Mountains, on the east side of the valley. Saw fine meadows for stock _ about the springs. Speckled trout weighing from 1$ to 2} pounds caught in Reese’s — River. McCarthy brought in a large mess of ducks. Several Pi-Utes followed us yesterday and to-day—two armed with rifles. For further particulars of this valley and to-day’s route see report of outward route. Day’s travel, 20.8 miles. I would remark that there is an excellent pass from Woodruff to Reese’s Valley, to the south of that we used, which would furnish a cut-off from either pass through the Se-day-e 110 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. range to that of the Pe-er-re-ah range south of the Simpson Pass; which; if the latter is practicable, would cut off the great bend in the road between Woodruff Valley and Won-a-ho-no-pe Valley. There are indications of a pass in this — in the Pe- _er-re-ah range, but we had not time to examine it. July 6, Camp No. 11, Reese River—Elevation above the sea, ae feet; thermom- eter at 4.40 a.m., 42°. Noticed, going west on our outward route, a great increment of temperature on west side of Se-day-e Mountains, and now since we have crossed to its east side, the thermometer has become correspondingly depressed. Move at 5a. m. Morning bright as it almost invariably has been. The twittering of the birds, particu- larly of the meadow-lark, very cheerful. The contrast between the desert to the west of the Se-day-e Mountains, and the valleys and mountains east of it, very marked; the former being of the most forbidding cast, and the latter quite smiling and pleasant. About a mile below camp cross Reese’s River; ford, miry; not near so good as that used on outward route. In 5 miles more join outward route and continue on it through Simpson’s Pass and park in the Pe-er-re-ah Mountains to about a mile below the lake, where we encamp in the cafion on Won-a-ho-no-pe Creek. Journey, 16.5 miles. The lake in Simpson’s Park we find has fallen considerably since we passed by it before, it at present being only about 2 feet deep, and Won-a-ho-no- pe Creek, which before was a running stream a number of miles above our camp, at this time first gives indications of its existence at the camp. The grass in Reese Val- ley, through the cafions we have passed to-day, as well as everywhere nearly on the mountains, very abundant; more so than when we passed before. Hundreds of acres of good hay may be cut in Simpson’s Park. Some seventeen Indians have come into our present camp, two of them riding horses. ‘They are Diggers, and speak the Sho-sho-nee language. One of them, who speaks a little English, says the Pi-Utes are to the west of them. These mountains, then (the Pe-er-re-ah range), are the dividing boundary between the Pi-Utes and the Diggers proper. ‘The talk I had with the old Indian I met here before seems to have had the effect of removing the fears of the Indians to come into camp. Some patches of snow visible on the highest portions of the Pe-er-re-ah range, and the probabilities are that itis to be found in spots the year round. The Indians represent the snow in the pass to be in the winter about 15 inches. Messrs. Lee and McCarthy brought in from Reese River ten brook trout, some weighing 24 pounds, and represent that just after we left camp this morning there was a very heavy fall of rain in that quarter. July 7, Camp No. 12, Won-a-ho-pe Creek Canon.—Elevation above the sea, 6,285 feet. The akc Mr. Reese, came into camp at daylight this morning, and reports the route I directed him to examine ahead favorable. The remaining portion of his party are some 75 miles in advance, continuing the examination of the country. 'Thermom- _ eter, at 5.40 a. m., 47°. Decamped at 6.15 o’clock. Continue down the Won-a-ho- no-pe Cafion. A ee deal of work necessary in this cation to make the road good. At present it is miry in places; occasionally for short distances sidling; and in some _ places, of short extent, rocky. Side-hill cutting generally easy. Currants, red and black, abound in the cation. Grass abundant; some clover. Pinon abundant on sides ‘REPORT AND JOURNAL. 111 of mountain. After journeying 4.8 miles, at 9 a. m. encamp at spring near mouth of cafion and sink of creek. Make only this short march so as to be enabled to reach Wons-in-dam-me Creek to-morrow. Some rain to-day, with thunder. July 8, Camp No. 13, mouth of Won-a-ho-no-pe Canron.—Elevation above the sea, 5,811 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 58°. Leave outward track, and, taking a short cut, join it again in 3.1 miles. Continue on it 1.3 miles, and then leaving it and taking another short cut through a good pass in the Pah-re-ah range, join it again in 18 miles, within 1.3 miles of our old Camp 21, on Wons-in-dam-me Creek, where we again encamp. Journey, 25.4 miles. In consequence of nearly all the road being new, and a great deal of it passing through heavy sage, we did not get into camp till about 6 in the afternoon. Road now, however, on account of having been tracked, good. The Saw-wid Creek, 4.3 miles, and another, 6.8 miles, back from where we are encamped, and which we crossed to-day, are both running streams along the road, and furnish an abundance of pasture up in their cations. These can be beneficially used by emigrants, who, in that case, should pass on the south side of the small sugar-loaf about 2.5 miles to the southwest of camp, and encamp at the mouth of the cation. Some eight or ten Diggers have followed us to camp, each carrying his two rat- sticks. Several of them are entirely naked, except the breech-cloth. Quite a heavy shower of rain has been falling, but, although it came down cold and chilly, these Indians seemed to take it as if it was not an extraordinary occurrence. One of the Indians, who was improperly frightened away at our camp on She-u-wi-te Creek (see journal of May 21 and 22) by my cook, has been again-met, and by kind treatment has become reconciled. Indeed, he has performed for us excellent service as a guide, and we have therefore rewarded him with some presents. July 9, Camp No. 14, Wons-in-dam-me (or Antelope) Creek.—Elevation above the sea, 6,595 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m.,53$°. Morning cloudy. Small ambulance, a wheel of which was broken the other day, taken apart and packed in one of the wagons. Moved at 7. Just before leaving, the Indians (some twenty) amused us with a specimen of one of their dances, all entering into it with a great deal of zest, and shouting with the utmost delight. The appearance of so many white men and wagons in their country is quite an epoch in their lives, and they are correspondingly elated. After proceeding on outward route 1.6 miles, we diverge to left slightly around some foot-hills, and in 5.1 miles come to a couple of springs, which I call Twin Springs. Bearing east of north, half a mile from these springs are half a dozen springs, which I call Barr Springs, after Sergeant Barr, of the Dragoons, who discovered them. These springs, with the grass about them and in their vicinity, would probably suffice for a considerable party. Two miles further we cross our old road, and leave it, not to get into it again, probably, until near Camp Floyd. One mile further reach a spring, which I call Fountain Spring, on account of its welling up like a fountain. Here is an abundance of water of good quality, but the grass is scant and alkaline. There are, however, two or three acres of rush-grass about it, which would answer for a small party. The pools are tinged with red, probably from ferruginous causes. Six and three-tenths miles further across the valley ( Ko-bah) we come to a creek, which, 112 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. on account of the color of the water, I call Clay Creek. The water exists in holes, but is pronounced constant by the Indians. There is a great deal of grass on different portions of it. Train got into camp at half past 2. Ko-bah Valley, such as described in outward route. Journey 16.1 miles. Road good. Showers all around us to-day, with thunder and lightning, and this evening the rain fell in torrents, and the lightning and thunder were severe. Another beautiful rainbow just before sundown, the third I have seen in the past week. Mr. Reese informs me that these rains at this season are a great anomaly. The ordinary rainy - season in Carson Valley is from the last of October to some time in May; and some- times they have a little rain in June. Mr. Lowry says that in California thunder and lightning are searcely known. I call the isolated mount just to the west of north of our camp after this last-mentioned gentleman. As we have probably left our westward route, not to join it again until near Camp Floyd, it is proper here to note that up to the last junction of the two routes, 7.4 miles back from our present camp, we have shortened our outward route, by the short cuts we have made, 21.8 miles; and if the short cut across Ko-bah Valley, noted by the dotted line, which is practicable, is taken, the outward route has been shortened fully 30 miles. July 10, Camp No. 15, Clay Creek, Ko-bah Valley. iinweds 116° 05’ 45”; lat- itude 39° 33’ 24”; elevation above the sea, 5,998 feet; thermometer, at 5.20 a..m., 51°.. First clear, sunny morning we have had for several days. Intending to travel only about 5 miles to reach a better camp-ground, we did not move till half past 6. The rain of last evening, copious as it was, has made but little impression on the soil, so porous and absorbent is it. Immediately at camp, cross Clay Creek by an excellent crossing, and traveling in a northeasterly direction, a range of mountains lying off to our right about 2 miles, in 5.2 miles reach some fine springs (three or four in number), which I call after Mr. William Lee, one of my assistants. These springs are in a nar- row grassy outshoot of Ko-bah Valley, and the pasture in the vicinity being abundant, is a favorable place to encamp. At these springs we found Wilson Lambert and Stevenson, two of the guide party, encamped, drying their clothes. They report that they have been 45 miles ahead, and in consequence of their mules giving out, were not able to join us yesterday. The prospect ahead, according to them, is unfavorable. There is water about 10 miles ahead, and thence about 9 miles beyond, but they both represent the We-a-bah range of mountains, over which the route would lie, impracticable for wagons. Ute Pete, they say, left their party three days since to go to the mail-station on our outward route, in Butte Valley, for the purpose of procuring the Indian who had shown the water before, and has not since been heard from. Here there is apparently a baulk. The guides persist in representing the mountain range ahead impracticable, and it would seem that I am after all forced to jom my old route, and go through Cho-kup’s Pass, which, on account of its steepness, isnot so good as I could like. To strike off : = from these springs would make the turn in the road too abrupt. I have, therefore, ordered the party to return immediately to our old camp ground of last night, on Clay Creek, so as to make the divergence to old road as slight as possible. Train reached old —e at 15 minutes to 11 p. m. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 113 After returning to camp, I called Stevenson again, and had another talk with him and Mr. Reese about the prospect ahead. He (Stevenson) is not so decided about the new pass in the We-a-bah Mountains being so impracticable as he this morning repre- sented it. I have, therefore, some little hope that we may yet, by a more thorough examination, get through the mountains ahead of us, without being forced to take our old road through Cho-kup’s Pass. I have accordingly ordered Mr. Reese, Stevenson, Lambert, and Private Collamer, with two pack-animals and 10 days’ provisions, to go again forward and make a more thorough and conclusive examination of the passes. If a practicable pass is found Collamer is immediately to return and report the fact. Rain to-day again around us, and a few drops upon us. July 11, Camp No. 15, Clay Creek—Remained stationary to-day, waiting report from guide’s party. The first clear day we have had in 8 days. Took advantage of it to keep up our accustomed astronomical observations. Observed east and west stars for time, Polaris for latitude, and took a double set of lunars, using stars on each side of the moon for the purpose of eliminating errors. July 12, Clay Creek.—Private Collamer came in just after 12 o'clock, (midnight,) and reported, to our joy, a practicable pass in the range ahead of us, on the proposed course of our new return-route. The pass had been found by Ute Pete, who, though he had been four days and three nights without food, except roots, yet had been the instru- ment of finding us a pass, and thus enabling us to keep on our course. It appears that on his arrival at the mail-station, in Butte Valley, he found it abandoned on account of the spring failing at that point, and the consequence was that he not only failed in seeing the Indian he was in search of, but was disappointed in getting anything to eat. All hands up at daybreak, but in consequence of the mules having been herded at a considerable distance, we did not get off till 25 minutes of 6. Thermometer, at 4.15 a. m., 425°. Retrace our steps to Lee’s Springs, 5.2 miles, and turning to the right around the point of some low rolling hills, and threading a narrow valley thickly clothed with different kinds of grass of luxuriant growth, in 2.5 miles get into a plain cation or pass of Colonel Cooper's range, which, in 1.5 miles, leads us into Pah-hun- nu-pe Valley. The rocks of this cafion are quite fine, on account of their abrupt height and well-defined stratification and dip, the latter being about 40° to the northeast. In consequence of the number of swallows which build their nests in its walls, I call it Swallow Cafion. Cedars crown its heights. Leaving this cafion we cross Pah-hun- nu-pe Valley, (elevation above the sea, 5,820 feet, ) the cross range of mountains closing it at the south being about 5 miles distant, and the passes through it appearing practi- cable. To the southwest the ravines in this range are clothed with grass, and water appears to be coursing down them. Six miles from mouth of Swallow Cajion brings us to the sink of a fine creek, which comes from the pass through the We-a-bah Moun- tains to which we are tending, which creek I call after Mr. Charles S. McCarthy, the indefatigable taxidermist of the party. We turn southwestwardly up along this creek, and in 2.1 miles, at 1.15, reach a locality where, amid excellent and superabund- ant hill and bottom grass and good wood fuel, we encamp. The stream at this point +s 3 feet wide and 1 deep, and flows with a rapid current in a tolerable deep bed. Road, to-day, excellent; journey, 17.3 miles; soil, for first 3 miles in Kobah Val- 15 BU 114 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ley, a rich grass or meadow bottom; in Pah-hun-nu-pe Valley it is argillo-arenaceous, in places gravelly; sage the characteristic; cedars cover the mountains. The grass extends up the hills of the We-a-bah range as far as the eye can reach. Indeed, the valley of McCarthy’s Creek furnishes the best exhibition of mountain and bottom grass I have seen. It is almost inexhaustible. Large quantities of bottom-grass could be cut for winter. Cedar fuel, convenient, as also good limestone in lower portion of McCarthy’s Cafion, and a whitish tufa in lower portion, good for building purposes, available. This tufa so soft as to be easily sawed into blocks of suitable size, and so light as to be easily transported. Indeed, there are all the requisites in this valley of a good dragoon post, which, on account of the altitude, should be keptas low down the creek as_ possible. The formation of the mountains to the south of Clay Creek are an altered impure limestone, probably of the Carboniferous period, also altered sandstones. July 13, Camp No. 16, McCarthy's Creek, We-a-bah Mountains.—Elevation above © the sea, 6,184 feet; thermometer, at 4.30 a.m., 54°. Decamped at 5 minutes of 5. Continue up McCarthy’s Creek, the grass continuing along and on the. neighboring heights in the greatest abundance and luxuriance. The flowers in the valley, as we approach the summit, are of various colors, and very beautiful. Some aspens and wild currants are also seen. The creek continues to within a mile of summit, which is 6.2 miles from last camp. Pass rocky near summit; grade all the way up very good, Some few patches of snow visible on highest portion of range. Elevation of summit of pass above the sea, 7,270 feet. Went to higher point on right of pass to get an extensive view. To northeast, east, and southeast could see the country for probably 60 miles, chopped up with mountain ranges, running generally north and south, exhibiting passes between them. The valley immediately to the east of us shows a clay flat, denuded of vegetation, and looking arid. Cedars abound in the mountains nearly everywhere. We find the descent from pass to valley, east side of We-a-bah range, steeper than we have just come up, on west side, but still not objectionable, though a little sidling. About a mile from summit strike a small, swift mountain stream, 3 feet wide, 4 deep, which we follow down into the main valley, which I call after Maj. Don Carlos Buell, assistant adjutant general. The stream I call after Capt. Thomas H.-Neill, Fifth Infantry. Grass continues abundant in the cafion of this stream. At mouth of cafion, about 1.25 miles from summit, turn northwardly up west side of Buell Valley through an extensive grove of cedars, and in 7.9 miles reach a small stream, which I call Bluff Creek, on account of the imposing bluffs of the cafion, through which it debouches from the We-a-bah range into the valley. We encamp on this creek at quarter of 1 o’clock, after a journey of 15.5 miles. Road good, except for short distances in pass on west side, where it is rough on account of rocks. There isan abundance of grass in Buell Valley, not far from camp. The stream upon which we are encamped, like all others in this great basin, sinks a short distance from its debouchment into the valley. There is another and larger stream, about three-fourths of a mile to our north, runnin g¢ down from the mountains into Buell Valley. - On our way to-day we met Stevenson, of guide-party, who had been left behind _ REPORT AND JOURNAL. 115 by guide-party with a broken-down mule. About 3 o’clock Mr. Reese came in and reported water and grass ahead of us about- 30 miles. Pete and Lambert are still ahead looking up points of route. The pass immediately to the west of us, by Bluff Creek, has been examined to McCarthy’s Creek, and found to be only an indifferent pack-route. An Indian trail passes this way. | : The formations along McCarthy's Creek are limestones so much fused as to come very nearly under the head of igneous rocks, At the summit of the pass siliceous con- glomerates obtain, and they continue down to the east foot. Near our present camp limestones, partly pure, and partly subcrystalline, and partly impure and slaty, crop out, and by some fossils found in them are recognized as belonging to the Devonian age, rocks of which age have not been known before to exist west of the Missouri only to a very limited extent. July 14, Camp No. 17, Bluff Creek—kElevation above the sea, 5,998 feet; ther- ~ mometer at 4.30 a. m. 56°.50. Raised camp at 10 minutes of 5. Strike eastwardly across Buell Valley. This valley, apparently limitless at north, open in places at south. In 6.4 miles reach a point in mid-valley, where I put a [- pointing to mouth of Neill’s Cation, as follows: TO GOOD CAMP AND ROAD, 8 MILES. (A short cut.) By this cut-off about 6 miles can be saved. Proceeding 6.7 miles farther, we commence going up pass over a low ridge, dividing Buell Valley from the adjoining — valley lying east of it, which I call Phelps Valley, after Capt. John W. Phelps, Fourth Artillery. In 1.8 miles reach summit (6,523 feet above the sea) by a gentle grade, and in 1 mile east foot, also by an easy descent. Then striking northeastwardly, 8.1 miles across Phelps Valley, brings us to the west foot of the Too-muntz range of mountains, dividing Phelps Valley from Butte Valley. Ascending this range 8.3 miles, by an excel- lent grade through a winding cation, we attained the summit of the pass, a quarter of a mile below which, on east side, we encamp, at the foot of a conspicuous bluff called by the Indians, on account of its dark basaltic color, Black Head, or Too-muntz Mountain. Here is an icy-cold spring, and about half a mile farther down, or to the east, a small stream to which we drive our stock. Good grass in vicinity. The spring I call Sum- mit Spring. Elevation of summit of pass above the sea, 7,103 feet. ee Buell Valley, in spots, is entirely denuded of vegetation, and presents the appear- ance of a clay flat; elsewhere it is covered with small artemisia and rabbit-bush. Phelps Valley appears closed by a cross-range at south, about 6 miles off; at north, the range closing it is about 15 miles off. Soil argillo-arenaceous. Small sage the characteristic. Small cedars in the passes of the ranges we have crossed to-day. The journey has bech 32.4 miles, too long a day’s travel, but necessary to get to water. Road good. Train reached camp at 8.30 p. m. 3 July 15, Camp No. 18, Summit Spring, Too-muntz range.—Longitude, 115°12' 14”, id 116 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. latitude, 39° 32’ 53”; elevation above the sea, 7,057 feet; thermometer at 9.30 a. m. 72°. The guide and Stevenson left this.morning early to find water, if possible, about 19 miles ahead, and if they return in time, we are to move that distance to-day. Mr. Engelmann and myself left at 8.30 o’clock to make some observations from some high points to the south of camp. After a hard struggle attain top of bluff (Black Head) and get views of country from 60 to 100 miles around. West of north, far distant, where are the high snow-clad summits of what, doubtless, is the Humboldt range. To the west the We-a-bah range appeared quite near, though quite 30 miles off. To the southwest could be seen, evidently, the Antelope range, at the foot of which we encamped July 8, seven days ago. To the south, for 60 miles, mountain-range after mountain-range appeared running in every variety of direction; and to the east, some 30 miles off, a number of parallel ranges trending generally north and south. Between the east and west ranges there seems to have been an upheave of igneous rocks breaking the sedi- mentary rocks and causing the irregularity of trend of the ranges, and this seems also to have been the case to the south of us. These rocks are of a brown porphyritic character. To the north of our camp the formations are the same yellowish limestones of Carboniferous age which were before found on both sides of Long Valley. As far as the eye can reach to the south of us the mountains are covered with cedars, which is almost a sure indication that water and grass also exist in that region. Got back to camp at half past 11. At about 5 the guide, Pete, and Stevenson, returned to camp, and reported water 12 miles ahead, and also 3 miles. beyond that. July 16, Camp No. 18, Summit Spring, Too-muntz Mountain range-——Thermometer at 4.40 a.m. 53°. Move at 5, and continue eastwardly down cafion to Butte Valley. In 1 mile from camp pass a fine gushing spring, which issues from foot of bluff, and gives rise to the small stream referred to before, which, after running a third of a mile, sinks. This spring, creek, and cafion I call after Pete, the Ute Indian, who has been of so much service to us in our explorations. The bottom-grass along it, as also the bunch-grass in the vicinity, is abundant. The grasses I have noticed along the route at different times and in different locali- ties are as follows: First, the very fine mountain-grass, the fruit of which is very small and pretty. This grass attains a height of 14 to 2 feet. Second, the slightly coarser . mountain-grass, existing, like the other, in bunches, but showing larger fruit. This attains a height of about two feet. These two kinds are found chiefly on the mountain benches and slopes and in the ravines. Third, the rye or wheat grass. Fourth, the large high bunch-grass which is principally found on benches along streams, and attains a height of from 3 to 4 feet. Fifth, the sage-grass, very seldom seen, but found among the artemisia, or wild sage; and which grows about 13 feet high. Its fruit resembles, in the husk, the wild wheat. Sixth, the desert-grass, small, fine, and presenting a glossy kind of blossom or fruit. Its height is about 8 inches. The animals prefer the mountain-grass or the first two kinds to all others, and these abound generally on both our routes. In three-quarters of a mile from Pete’s Spring reach mouth of cafion by gentle de- scent, and 10.9 miles fnore cross Butte Valley, (6,268 feet above the sea,) with low range bal of mountains, 5 miles off, limiting it at the south, and strike a stream of pure cold water : » REPORT AND JOURNAL. 1127 which I call after Dr. Garland Hurt, the late accomplished Indian agent for the Ute Indians. The stream is tolerably rapid, 3 feet wide, 4 foot deep, and sinks $ mile below mouth of cafion. Willows line it, and piton is found on the heights. Currants grow in the cafion. Ascending the cafion by a good grade, albeit in some places a little sidling and rocky, 3.2 miles brought us to the summit of the pass of the Mon-tim range dividing Butte and Steptoe valleys; elevation of summit above the sea, 7,398 feet, Descending the eastern slope by a winding cafion of pretty steep grade for 200 or 300 yards, near summit, 3 miles more in a south direction brought us to a spring, where we encamped. At this spring we have made several excavations, which can be multiplied to any desirable extent, as the spring is running, and the excavations will fill up with water. The guide also reports four more springs within the compass of half a mile from camp. I have therefore called this caiion Spring Cafion. Grass abounds about the camp. Mon-tim range, in which we are encamped, is covered with tall trees, like the fir, which would supply poles for the telegraph for along distance. The mountain mahogany also exists near our camp in larger quantities than I have before seen it. Brown porphyry characterizes, geologically, Hurt’s Cation; while the main portion of the Mon-tim range consists, like those farther north, of compact calcareous rocks and some few sandstones. - Road, to-day, generally hard and good. Journey, 19.1 miles. July 17, Camp No. 19, Spring < aton.—Elevation above the sea, 6,828 feet; ther- mometer at 5-a. m., 43°. The air this morning very chilly. Decamped at 25 minutes of 6; continued in an east of south direction down Spring Cation, the grade of which, except near summit, is exceedingly slight. This cation gradually opens to 2.5 miles wide as you descend to Steptoe Valley, and the cedar on either side is almost inex- haustible. There is grass everywhere in the cafion and on the mountain-slopes, though it is not near so flourishing and thick as that in McCarthy’s Cation. Springs also com- mon init. On the north side of the ca on the mountains are very bold and precip- itous. There is an old beaten trail down this ca*on, about the largest we have seen on the trip. The Indians say it is the trail of the To-sa-witch band of the Sho-sho-nees, living about the Humboldt River, who yearly take this route, to trade horses with the Pahvant Indians about Fillmore. These horses they probably get from the Bannacks, to the north of them. ~ Just at outlet of Spring Cation into Steptoe Valley, 8 2 miles from camp on north side of cafion, there is a spur from the north wall or mountain of the cafion, through ' which there is a gap, gate, or cafion, which, for sublimity, on account of its confiming walls, equals, probably, anything we have seen on the route. The walls are composed of a siliceous limestone, interstratified with shale, and are nearly vertical. ‘There are several caves, niches, and benches to be seen high up in the wall. The bottom of the cafion is quite springy and covered with a luxuriant grass. Fine grass also exists in the vicinity. I call the place the Gate of Hercules, on account of its stupendous walls. The echo in it is very fine, and our fire-arms have startled a great number of swallows and hawks. The road leaves this gate to the left about 0.5 mile, and 1.7 miles further down Spring Ca‘ion brings us to Steptoe Valley, which we follow, on its western side, for 4 miles, in a southeasterly direction, and encamp on a noble creek, which I call after Lieut, Alexander Murry, the energetic officer in command of the escort of my / 118 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. party. This stream heads some 12 miles off in the mountain range, is rapid, and, after running in a northeasterly direction, sinks 2 miles below camp. At this camp it is from 6 to 10 feet wide and about 1 deep; bottom gravelly and rocky. The grass in the vicinity of our camp, along the bottom of the creek, in the valley, and in the mountains, is exceedingly abundant. Currants are found on the creek. Road, to-day, good ; soil, argillo-arenaceous; the wild sage and rabbit-bush the characteristics of the valleys, cedars and firs the mountains. It is very possible that a cut-off may be made from the mouth of Neill’s Creek to the mouth of Stevenson Cafion, when the road is perfected; and the intervening country should be examined for the purpose. — JSuly 18, amp No. 20, Murry’s Creek, Steptoe Valley—Elevation above the sea, 6,193 feet; thermometer, at 5 a.m., 46°. Moved at 20 minutes after 5 ;- course, south- eastwardly, across Steptoe Valley. Two miles and eight-tenths from camp get into and follow a wagon-road, which, an Indian who lives in this valley says, was made by the Mormons in the spring of last year. He represents that they came into Steptoe Valley from the east; had about 50 wagons, and after proceeding north of our camp some 8 or 12 miles, turned into a cafion of the Un-go-we-ah range, whence they turned back and retraced their old route to the settlements. I have no doubt that this was the route taken by the Mormons at the time it was reported they were flying from our troops last spring, and were going to Silver Mountains. This is the route that Lott Hunting- don, a Mormon mail-agent at Ruby Valley, reported to me as one which had been traveled by some emigrants in an attempt to reach California from Fillmore, and that nothing more had ever been heard from them! (Mr. Bean, August 10, informed me that he, Bean, was one of the guides to the Mormons, on the occasion referred to above, and that they had 14 horse and mule teams, and about 30 ox teams, and that they returned because they did not like the country.) About a mile from where we struck the Mormon road, we cross a fine creek, which I call after Capt. Carter L. Stevenson, of the Fifth Regiment of Infantry. This stream comes from the Un-go-we-ah range, and, after getting into Steptoe Valley, runs north- wardly in it for 3 or 4 miles below where we crossed it, and sinks. It is 5 feet wide, 13 deep, of rocky bottom, rapid current, of milky hue, its taste good, and would be serviceable in irrigating the rich bottom along it. Indeed Steptoe Valley in this lo- cality exhibits a very extensive bottom of luxuriant grass, intermingled with clover, and if not too cold (it is 6,146 feet above the sea, or 1,286 feet above Camp Floyd), as both Murry Creek and Stevenson Creek could be used jn its irrigation, it would fur- nish an excellent location for a post or Government farm. An abundance of hay could be cut for the winter, and possibly the cereals (except corn), as well as garden veg- etables, would thrive. The fort or post could be located on either Murry or Stevenson Creek, though the former, probably, on account of its being on the west side of the valley, and therefore the freest from snow in the winter, would be preferable as a site. The Indian living here says the snow in the valley is only generally about six inches _ deep, and some winters there is none at all. It never lasts long. In Spring Cafion Pass of Mon-tim range, it is about 2 feet deep. Should the Government ever locate ae a post here, the military reserve should be bounded by the highest crests of the Mon- ‘ tim range, limiting Steptoe Valley on the west; by the highest crests of the Un - Z0- REPORT AND JOURNAL. 119 we-ah range, limiting said valley on the east; and by an east and west line across said valley from crest to crest, 10 miles north of post; and by an east and west line across said valley from crest to crest, 20 miles south of post. The reserve should be * thus large to embrace the necessary pasture and timber. Good building-stone can be got from the mountains, and tall pines or fir from the same source. If preferable, adobes could be used instead of stone. The Indian referred to reports another stream as large as Murry’s Creek, to the south of our camp, and which also flows from the Mon-tim range. | After crossing Stevenson Creek we left the Mormon road (which goes around by the way of the mouth of the cafion, through which the creek flows,) and cut across some short and rather steep hills, crossing the river again 7.5 miles from last crossing, up in the eafion, and joining again and following the Mormon road up the cafion from this point. The stream at this last crossing was so miry as to make it necessary to take the teams over by hand. In one-half mile we crossed it twice again. At the last crossing the road, instead of passing where it does, through a narrow miry cajfion, should keep straight ahead and turn the hill of rocks about 200 yards higher up. This cafion discovers some splendid rocks of the most massive character, some of them being isolated and looking like castles. In one instance, of right side of cajion, high up, I noticed a very pretty arch, through which I could see the blue sky. There is a great deal of fine-grained colored limestone here, which, I should think, might be classed among the marbles. A great deal of it is diversified with white streaks cours- ing through it. A mile and a quarter from where we last struck Stevenson’s Creek, we again leave it and take up a branch ravine, which we follow for 2 miles, and encamp at a fine spring, the source of the branch, among good luxuriant grass and timber. This Stevenson’s Cafion requires four good bridges of spans, from 12 to 20 feet, to make the road passable, and in two places, where the bottom is miry for about 100 yards, the road should be excavated along the side-hills. In point of grade the cafion is excellent, and abounds in grass, cedar, pine, mountain mahogany, and aspen timber. Road good, except at points noted. Journey 14.5 miles. In consequence of bad crossings, train did not reach camp till 4 p. m. | July 19, Camp No. 21, Stevenson's Canon, Un-go-we-ah range.—Elevation above the sea, 7,443 feet. Thermonieter at 4.40 a.m., 52°. Sent out guide-party early this ‘morning, with particular instructions to send back a man daily to inform me of the country ahead. We are approaching, doubtless, the most difficult portion of our route, and I feel anxious that there shall be no faux pas. The party goes out with ten days’ provisions, and, besides the usual persons (Reese, Stevenson, and Lambert), I have ordered three soldiers to accompany them. Pete also accompanies them for a distance, and then is to push on with all dispatch with my report to General J ohnston, at Camp Floyd. : fee Main party moved at 5.45. Course eastwardly up branch of Stevenson's Cafion, 1.7 miles to summit of Un-go-we-ah or Pine range, and thence down a cation I call after Capt. Henry Little, Seventh Infantry, 7.4 miles to its debouchment into Antelope Valley. Thence 6.6 miles, or about two-thirds of the way across Antelope Valley, to 120 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. some springs, which, by being opened, may be made to serve a large command. We encamp at these springs at 2.15 The road near the pass of the Un-go-we-ah range, on west side, has two or three short, steep, as well as sidling places, which require grading. The general ascent, however, of the cation from where we struck it is good. The mountain mahogany is found in it. On the top of the pass I noticed four dug holes, evidently places in which the Mormons had cached some of their prop- erty when they passed here in the spring of 1858, but which now were empty. The distant view, from this summit, of mountain ranges, peaks, and valleys, lying to the southeast, very beautiful. The descent immediately at summit, on east side, tolerably steep, but good the rest of the way down to Antelope Valley. A couple of fine peaks are visible on right of cation; also other notable rocks, some of them being fine massive exhibitions of a species of veined limestone. These rocks contain small caves. A spring and fine grass are reported by Sergeant Barr, 1.5 miles down the cafion and a quarter of a mile to right, in a branch cafion, and another spring about 3 miles down the cafion to the rigl.t, also in a branch cafion. Cedar and pine abound in the mountain range. As you descend Little’s Cafion to Antelope Valley, the Go-shoot, or Tots-arrh, range looms up toweringly in front of you, the most conspieuous portion being Union Peak. Antelope Vallef, in which we are encamped, exhibits a much better soil in this portion of it than where we crossed it on our outward route. To the north, commencing about three-quarters of a mile from our camp, a bottom of good grass (a great deal of it red-top), 2 or 3 miles wide, extends for a distance of 8 or 10 miles northwardly, and prob- ably further, and intermingled with it are extensive groves of tall cedars, which thus far on our routes, existing, as these groves do, in the bottom of the valley, is quite an anom- aly. Birds frequent these groves, and make the air resonant with their music. The scenery, too, is quite pretty. This valley is 5,633 feet above the sea, and therefore 513 feet lower than Steptoe Valley where we last crossed it. It is not, however, so well watered as the latter, neither is the grass so luxuriant. There are, however, some fine cold springs which we will pass to-morrow, about 2 miles up Turnley’s Cafion, and 8 miles to the northeast of this camp, which might be useful were a fort established in this valley. Adobes could be made or building-stone (limestone) got from the mount- ain. Road to-day oes good. Journey 15.7 miles. A little rain just before _ sunset. The Un-go-we-ah Mobiiatis, { in the neighborhood of our route, are composed of calcareous rocks, mostly an impure limestone, with some slaty and other strata. Near the summit the rocks are porphyritic. July 20, Camp No, 22, Springs, Antelope Valley. —Longitude, 114° 26’ 52”; latitude, ~ 89° 06’ 09’. Elevation above the sea, 5,633 feet. Thermometer at 4.40 a. m., 54°. Weather quite mild at sunrise and ductige the night. Decamped at 20 minutes sat 5. Course east of north, 5.8 miles up Antelope Valley, to mouth of cation, which I call after Capt. P. T. Turnley, assistant quartermaster at Camp Floyd, and which leads us to the pass over the Go-shoot or Tots-arrh range. Our road turns up this cafion southeastwardly, and 2.2 miles from mouth we find some fine copious cold springs, : which I call also after Captain Turnley. Grass and wood-fuel found in vicinity. Pe sons traveling our route will find a road to the north of ours, and more direct from REPORT AND JOURNAL. 121 near the mouth of Little’s Cafion to the mouth of Turnley’s Cafion, which will cut off several miles. In that case they will make their encampment at these springs, and not where we did in Antelope Valley. Proceeding up Turnley’s Canon 1.8 miles by a remarkably easy grade, the cation being amply wide, we reach summit of pass of the Go-shoot or Tots-arrh range (7,060 feet above the sea), whence we had toward the east a fine view of some distant mountains, Union Peak of the Tots-arrh range to the east of the summit towering far above every other height, and showing a great deal of snow and apparently depending icicles in its recesses. Indeed, I think this peak , the highest we have seen on either of our routes. Descending from pass on east side, by a cation of very easy inclination, in 7.2 miles reach a fine spring of flowing water, where we encamp. This cation I call Red Canon, on account of its red-colored rocks. The spring is called by the Indians Un-go-pah, or Red Spring. Plenty of grass exists near and in vicinity, and I notice also some springs to the south side of us, in the canon, about 2 miles off. Union Peak, which lies some 10 or 15 miles to the west of south of us, the Indians call Too-bur-rit; but I cannot learn its meaning. The mount- ain range is covered with cedar, pifion, and fir. Road to-day very good. Journey 17.1 miles. Train got into camp at 12.45. Met Private Marpool, of guide’s party, before reaching camp. He had returned from the guide’s party to conduct us to our present camp. Pete we found at this camp. His mule had given out on account of sore feet, and he was waiting our arrival to have him shod. Private Nune also came into camp from guide’s party to conduct us to our camp-ground to-morrow. Pete has been supplied with a fresh mule, and at 3 p. m. he started again on his way to Camp Floyd, the bearer of my report of progress. An elk was seen for the first time yes- terday in Stevenson’s Cafion, and one to-day in Red Canon; also, a mountain sheep for the first time. The Tots-arrh range, on west side, is composed of altered limestone and quartzite. The limestone forms the mountains on both sides of summit of pass. On east side, along the road, was noticed a great deal of calcareous conglomerate; also, quartzite and impure limestones. July 21, Camp No, 23, Un-go-pah or Red Springs——Elevation above the sea, 5,927 feet. Sergeant Miller and Corporal Duvall came in during the night with the beef which was found missing when we reached Camp 21. This is the only beef remain- ing, and. is one of those we took from Camp Floyd, and’ he has improved ever since we left that post. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 614°. Resumed journey at 25 minutes after 4. Course eastwardly. Continue to descend Red Canon to valley on east side of Tots-arrh range, which valley I call after Deputy Quartermaster-General George H. Crosman, stationed-at headquarters Department of Utah. The road we are follow- ing, and have been since we left Steptoe Valley, is the Mormon road referred to July 18. The indications are that some fifty wagons have been over it. The tracks of the cattle are still visible, and the dung yet remains on the road. About 3 miles from camp we leave the road, to cut off a bend of it. About 2.5 miles farther cross a dry branch just below its sink. Cottonwood at crossing. Five and a half miles farther brings us to a rush spring of tolerable water, which, by excavation, could be made to serve a pretty large command. There is a great deal of grass about it, and in the 16 BU 122 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. vicinity. Three and a half miles farther we join and follow again the Mormon road. Half a mile farther we come to creek, 3 feet wide, 1 deep, which comes from the south, and sinks a quarter of a mile below camp. In places it is lined with rushes and willows. On this creek, which I call also after Colonel Crosman, we encamp at half past 12, amid abundance of grass. This valley, which, like nearly all the others, lies north and south, is 12 to 15 miles wide, and is partially closed at either end by high mount- ains, some 25 or 30 miles off. Its elevation above the sea is 4,920 feet. It has a - great deal of grass in it, in localities, and is at these places supplied with springs, which are either copious or can be made sufficiently so. Small greasewood the char- acteristic. Road to-day generally very good, sometimes cutting up from alkali. Soil generally gravelly. Journey, 14.8 miles. July 22, Camp No. 24, Crosman Creek—Elevation above the sea, 4,920 feet. Thermometer, at 5 a.m., 65°. Cloudy this morning at sunrise, and a few drops of rain. The mules during the night gave indications of a stampede. At first supposed it might have been caused by some Indians, who acted as if they were angry last evening because they were not permitted to remain in camp after dark; but as such indications are not unusual, it was probably due to other causes. The guard, however, was visited and admonished to observe vigilance, &e. Moved at 5, and continue on Mormon road. Course, northwardly in valley for 10.2 miles, when we come to a number of small springs, which I call after Lieut. _ Peter W. L. Plympton, Seventh Infantry. These springs at present do not afford a great deal of water, for the reason of there being no proper excavations, but a great sufficiency could be easily obtained in this way. The soldier who last joined us at Un-go-pah Springs was directed by the guide to conduct us to a spring 12 miles dis- tant from our last camp, but as these are only 10 miles distant, and the soldier has not been to the place, we continued on in the hope of seeing the springs referred to within about a couple of miles and camping at it. It proved, however, that at this distance there were no springs, so that I was lured on in the hope of finding them a little farther on. At 13, 14, and 15 miles from camp we saw none, and then, according to the notes of the guide, which he had shown me, feeling confident that they were beyond, in striking distance, I continued on till, at quarter fo 5 o'clock, we had traveled 30.1 miles, when we were obliged to encamp near some puddles of water, which had been made by the rain, just before we reached the spot. The misfortune is, too, that there is no grass in the vicinity, but the barley we purchased at Placerville now comes into requi- sition, and we shall thus be enabled to get through the night. After reaching, as above stated, Plympton’s Springs, our route lay eastwardly 6.7 miles to foot of pass, across a low, thirsty mountain-ridge, which I eall Perry Range; thence 3.1 miles by a good grade, up a broad cafion to summit, the rocks on the left side being buttress or bluff-like; and thence, by gentle descent 10.1 miles to camp. The ridge we have passed over is composed of highly altered silico-calcareous rocks, and is almost entirely bare of trees. From the summit of the pass, 5,657 feet above the sea, could be seen, some 25 or 30 miles off, on east side of range of mountains, quite remarkable on account of its well-defined stratification and the resemblance of portions of its outline to domes, minarets, houses, and other structures. On this ac- REPORT AND JOURNAL. 123 count I call it the House range. Between it and the ridge forming our point of view is a very extensive valley, very generally white with alkaline efflorescence, and I have therefore called it White Valley. It is some 25 miles wide, and partially closed north and south by low ranges, about 15 miles off. Soil, areno-argillaceous. Small grease- — wood the characteristic. It is in the middle of this valley we have encamped, and on account of the guides having neglected to send back a man, as he was wont, aceord- ing to orders, to point to me a camp of which he was personally cognizant, the party is in its present uncomfortable situation. July 23, Camp No. 25, White Valley—Elevation above the sea, 4,406 feet; ther- mometer at 5 a. m., 60°. Koenig, the dragoon, did not come in from the guide party in the night, as was anticipated. I do not understand the guide’s movements. It was enjoined upon him over and oyer again to send us a man back daily, to guide the party with certainty to water and grass, and he has still Pete, Lambert, Stevenson, and Private Koenig with him. It will be hazarding too much to persist in going forward at a venture, though Sanchez, who was with the guide when he examined to the north- east of the House range, on our outward trip, says there is water on the east side of the House Mountains. ‘The route to the water, however, is not known to be practica- ble, and it would consume nearly the whole day to have it examined, and in the mean- time the animals are without grass and water, and we cannot afford to give them another feed of forage, it being necessary for the desert stretch, which we may possi- bly have to pass before reaching Rush Valley. I have, therefore, determined to fall _ back to Plympton’s Springs, where we can get grass and water, and await there the arrival of some one from the guide’s party. Leave at 7 a. m., and retrace our steps to Plympton’s Springs, where, at 2, we en- camp. Journey, 18.7 miles. At 5 p.m. had a very severe hail and rain storm, the severest I have experienced since I have been in this region; hail as big as marbles, and rain so copious as to flood the tents; thunder and lightning the accompaniments. In these high regions the thunder and lightning, however, are infrequent, and not severe. July 24, Camp No. 26, Plympton’s Springs—Elevation above the sea, 4,814 feet ; thermometer, at 6.30 a.m., 62°.. Private Koenig of guide party has not yet returned. Begin to feel very uneasy, and have, therefore, directed Sergeant Barr, Private Colla- mer, and Sanchez, the Mexican, to examine the country beyond where we encamped night before last, in White Valley, and see if we can get our wagons to the water re- ported by Sanchez as lying to the east of House range. Should they meet Koenig, and all is right, they are to continue on to the water, and Koenig is to return and re- port. Should they not meet him, then Sanchez is to return by the pass to the north of the reputed water, and report the facts. The teamsters and men, meantime, are en- gaged in cutting grass to take along with us over the desert. Some little rain this afternoon. ; 2 July 25, Camp No. 26, Plympton's Springs—Thermometer at 5.15 a m., 51 ‘ Sergeant Barr came in at 11 last night, having ridden 40 miles, and reports that 2 miles beyond our rain-puddle camp (No. 25) he found a note from the guide to me stuck in a cleft-stick near a rush pond, informing me that the Indian with him says 124 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. there are water and grass 10 miles beyond that locality. This mode of guiding me by notes stuck up, depending upon the contingency of ‘my reaching or getting them, is a new feature introduced by the guide since I have approached the desert, and is en- tirely unauthorized. It is true that he sent word by Private Nune, the last man he sent in, that I could continue to follow the Mormon road, and that if anything was wrong he would send a man back to notify me. But this is placing me entirely at his mercy, and this I do not choose to sanction. J must know what lies before me. ‘The sergeant alone came back. Collamer and Sanchez continued on to examine the water and grass ahead, and are to return to us at Rush Pond, where the note was found. I have concluded, therefore, to again move forward. Started at 5.45 and retraced our track to our old camp-ground, No. 25. A mile and a half farther brought us, at 1 o’clock, to the Rush Pond reported yesterday by Sergeant Barr. Tsuee yg, 20.3 miles. The rain yesterday in this valley must have been very heavy. The sage-brush has been torn up by the roots and carried as if by a flood down an arroyo and lodged on either side clear over its banks. Not finding either Collamer or Sanchez here as I expected, and noticing with my reconnoitering glass two persons coming toward us from the cafon ahead of us, out of the House range, I have ordered a halt till they could come up, and make their report. At 2.30 they arrived, and proved to be Koenig and Sanchez. Koenig reporting water and grass 15 miles ahead, and it being impossible for us to make the distance to advantage to-day, we go into camp where we are, at the Rush Pond. A rather poor camp, but the rushes will prove sufficient for our animals, and the water is sufficiently abundant. Koenig has come in all tattered and torn. He has been two days without food, and all on account of the guides neglecting to send a man back to report every camp instead of sticking up notes which I might not, and did not, at the proper time, get. His horse giving out, he was obliged to walk a great deal on foot. Collamer and Sanchez happily met him this morning in the cafion ahead, waiting for us, and relieved him of his troubles. Collamer let him have his mule, and remains ahead of us till we can overtake him to-morrow. Showers of rain around this afternoon, with slight thunder and lightning. There is a spring to the north of our camp, so Sanchez reports, some 5 miles off, near a small mound, or hill, but no grass; he found it when cxameting the country on our outward route. July 26, Chess No. 27, Rush Pond, White Valley—Longitude, 113° 31’ 54’; lat- itude, 39° 19’ 37”; altitude above the sea, 4,350 feet; thermometer at 5 a. m., 56°. Decamped at 5.30 o’clock. Continue on old Mormon road, north of east to mouth of canon, leading to pass through House range. To get to it, cross an alkali flat, 3 miles wide, which, in wet weather, must cut up very much. It can be avoided, doubtless, by bearing around more southwardly. After crossing flat, pass through a mile of sand knolls, where the pulling is difficult. Reach foot of canon, 8 miles from camp, and 4.1 miles further, by a good grade, except near summit, here for about 100 yards it is _ rather steep, we reach the culminating point of pass. Elevation above the sea, 6,674 feet. The bluffs at the entrance of this cafion are tremendously high and massive ; that on the right very high, probably 1,500 feet, and like a dome. Call the cafon, REPORT AND JOURNAL. 125 therefore, Dome Cation. Excellent and tolerably abundant grass in this cafion, but no water. Cedars and a few firs on slopes of cation. The walls of the cation full of small caves, and as usual showing a great deal of the resinous, pitchy substance, that seemingly oozes out of the rock; but it may be the dung of birds or of small animals. The formation of the mountain range is made up of highly altered limestones and some altered sandstones, &e. Ascended a high point to right of pass to get an extensive view. To the south, some 20 miles off, lies a lake of sky-blue color, apparently some 10 or 15 miles long, and less broad. This is doubtless Sevier Lake, the sink of Sevier River, on which Captain Gunnison and party were massacred in 1853, and to which he was tending for the purpose of examining it when the catastrophe occurred. The valley lying to the north of this lake exhibits one extended low, flat, desert plain, showing many spots of a whitish alkaline character. Coursing from south to north across it, at its eastern portion, some 20 miles off, is a low range of mountains, its north end terminating directly east of my point of view. Far beyond can be seen a continuous range of mountains, running north and south, which doubtless is the formidable Wahsatch range. The prospect of palatable water directly east is poor indeed. After descending from summit on east side, about two miles, met Collamer, who conducted us up a cation to the left about half a mile, when we came to a fine cold spring of good water, where, at 12.45, we encamp. Road to-day excellent, except across alkaline portion of the White Valley as stated. Animals driven to the creek, up the cafion about a mile from camp, where there is a considerable quantity of fine erass and a growth of pines. Journey 14.5 miles. This spring, creek, and canon I call after Lieut. Gurden Chapin, Seventh Infantry. Met the guide, Mr. Reese, at this campground. He arrived here yesterday after- noon without food. Reports water and grass 15 miles ahead. The rest of the party, Pete, Lambert, and Stephenson, are awaiting us at that locality; their animals all broken down from sore feet. They had been two days without water. The guide had been unsuccessful in finding the water pointed out in the distance on our outward route by the red-shirted Indian (Black Hawk’s brother) in the Short-Cut Pass range, although they were engaged two days looking for it. This was the water which was to shorten the distance between water on the desert to 35 miles. Persons following us may suppose that, from Rush Pond, we might have come more directly to our present camp, by the pass just to the north of us, in the House range; but besides White Valley not being practicable, on account of alkaline mire in that direction, the pass referred to is not practicable for wagons. This pass was exam- ined by the guide-party on our outward route. . The old ox which remained of those we took from Camp Floyd, on our way out, was slaughtered for beef this evening, and not without considerable regret. He had traveled with us the whole way, and we felt reluctant at parting with him even for beef. July 27, Camp No. 28, Chapin’s Spring—Elevation above the sea, 6,530 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 67°. For the last 2 nights the weather has been quite warm. Marched at 20 minutes past 5. Retraced our steps one-fourth of a mile to old Mor- 126 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. mon road, and then leave it and cut off an unnecessary detour, by winding in the cation to the left. Three and a half miles further get into it again, in Sevier Valley, and after following it a few yards, leave it entirely, we turning to the left around a southeast spur of the House range, and the Mormon road continuing in an easterly direction to Fillmore and crossing the Sevier, it is said, at the Government bridge on the main southern road to Los Angeles. Itis from the point of mountain at this locality that the view of Sevier Lake has biel taken. A low mountain range bounds the lake on its south shore; but on its north, the valley goes down to it without any intervening hill or ridge, and it looks traversable by wagons in every direction. Continuing around along the east base of House range our route, after proceeding northwardly up the valley about 11 miles, turns to the left up a cafion a quarter of a mile, where we reached some good springs, and at 12 meridian, encamped. In this vicinity there are other springs, and about half a mile further up toward the mountain, there is a small ereek, 4 feet wide, 1 deep, which, after running a short distance, sinks. The springs‘ creek, and cation I call after Lieut. Charles H. Tyler, Second Dragoons. To this creek, along which there is an abundance of grass, we drive our mules. At this camp we found Pete, Lambert, and Stevenson of guide’s party, all broken down, on account of animals giving out. At 6 p. m. I dispatched Pete, Stevenson, and Sanchez about 75 miles ahead, to look up pass into Rush Valley, suitable for this, our return, route. Pete is to continue on to Camp Floyd with my report and letters, and bring back the mail. In Tyler’s Cafion, a short distance to the north of our camp, is an artificial corral or inclosure made of rocks, and capable of holding about 50 horses. It is represented _ as being the place were Tintic, an Indian chief, a year or two ago concealed a lot of stolen horses. : Journey to-day 15.5 miles. Road stony along east base of House range, other- wise good. July 28, Camp No. 29, Tyler’s Spring—FElevation above the sea, 5,992 feet. Ther- mometer at 6 a. m., 72°. Remained in camp till 2.30 p. m. for the purpose of recruit- ing the animals, preparatory to crossing the desert, and traveling all night. Take a course northwardly for about 15.6 miles up a branch or arm of Sevier Lake Valley, where we, about 11 o’clock, stopped to take supper and bait the animals with some grass we had brought with us. From this point we bore off northeastwardly to a pass through Colonel Longue Thomas’s range, 3 miles, by an easy grade, bringing us to the summit, 5,520 feet above the sea. Descending on east side by a good grade, 2.2 miles more, we halted, at 3 o’clock in the morning, to take breakfast, and feed the animals with barley. There being no moon, and it being-cloudy, it was somewhat difficult for us to find our way through the pass; but, by the use of a lantern ahead as a guide to the foremost wagons, we were enabled to get along better than I expected. At 4.15 a. m., July 29, we left our place of bivouac, and in 2 miles reached second summit of range, 5,330 feet above the sea, whence, bearing magnetically north 25 E., _ eould be seen the Champlin Mountains, for the water in which we were aiming. It -was in the region of this summit, southward, that the red-shirted Ute Indian had, froma oS a distance, pointed out the locality of a spring; but, as I have already in my journal stated, REPORT AND JOURNAL. 127 although the guide-party had spent two days in looking for it, they had not been able to find it. The consequence is that we are obliged to push on farther for a good camp- ground. The route we have come from Tyler's Springs, evidently a crooked one, in Colonel Thomas range; and besides, it makes too great a detour to the north. The true route should evidently pass the range 4 or 5 miles to the south of us, and the indica- tions are, there would be no difficulty. The guide, though he has examined these passes twice, has bungled a great deal to-day. At half past 9 a. m., being about 5 miles in advance of column, hurrying on alone over the desert to the east of Thomas range to examine a pass ahead, I heard a halloa from some one in rear, whom I found to be Mr. McCarthy. He brought me the intelligence that Stevenson had returned and reported a small spring and some grass to the right of the route we were pursuing, and about 6 miles from the train; also another spring, or rather a couple of springs, 6 miles beyond that again, in the mountains. In consequence of this, immediately sent word to Lieutenant Murry to divert the train to the first mentioned spring, going there also myself. I found, however, at the locality two trifling springs of no value, the water even by digging not being sufficient for half a dozen men. Besides, it had a very poor taste. These springs proving of no value, after resting the mules and putting in fresh ones for those broken down, we attempted to reach with our wagons the springs reported by Stevenson, 6 miles farther on. The teams, however, were too much fagged out to accomplish it, and the consequence was that late in the afternoon, after proceeding 3 miles, we were obliged to halt and encamp for the night in a locality near some triple -peaks, where there was neither grass nor water. At about sundown the mules were driven to the water and grass supposed to be 3 miles distant, in two herds; Mr. Reese and Privates Shelton and Schwartz with the first, and Private Kennedy, Lambert, and one of the Mexican herders (‘the old man”) with the other. We have been traveling since yesterday at half-past 2, or for about 30 hours; the weather has been warm, and the mules have had no water. The consequence is that all are fagged out, and we feel that we must reagh water soon, or the expedition become demoralized and we fail of getting through to Camp Floyd across the Great Salt Lake Desert by a new return- route, as I had hoped. My dependence, however, is in a higher power, and as He has ~ never yet failed to help me in the straits of life through which I have passed, I am still encouraged to believe that He will yet conduct us safely through our trials and difficulties. : ae : Country to-day and yesterday unusually arid and forbidding. Colonel Thomas range a combination of trachytic and dioritic igneous rocks and some metamorphosed stratified rocks. Journey from Tyler's Springs 36.9 miles. Road good except the last 3 miles, which have been unnecessarily bad and hilly on account of our not having taken a at from the springs slightly farther to the left over the mountains than we have come. We had, this afternoon, a very copious shower of rain. Stevenson, as soon as he had pointed out to one of our men the next spring, left us to join the guide-party ee 30, Camp No. 30, near Triple Peaks.—Elevation above the sea, 5,750 feet ; thermometer at 6 a. m., 62°. About 9 a.m. Kennedy came in and reported that the 128 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. drove of animals he went with last evening did not reach water till this morning. Found the water-hole entirely insufficient without being dug out. Mr. Reese had left in the morning to find the other water-hole. Sent out Sergeant Miller with some shovels to enlarge spring. At 12 meridian the herd Kennedy had been with came in, and the report is that the portion Reese was with had strayed away and could not be found, my horse, which I had let him have last night, of the number. . The mules which have been brought in are all put to the wagons, leaving one without a team, which of neces- sity we are obliged for the present to leave behind. We strike our course northeast- wardly to one of the springs we hoped to reach yesterday. The animals look sorry enough, and if they do not get water soon, must perish. On our way we were met by Mr. Reese with the remaining animals. He reports he found the other spring through the happy circumstance of meeting a crippled Indian, who showed it to him, just at the time he was despairing of finding it. It is about a mile to the northwest of the first spring. After proceeding in a general northern direction 5.6 miles, or 2.6 miles farther than Stevenson said it would be, we came to one of the springs and encamped. Greatly to our disappointment I found it affording but a very small quantity of water; scarcely enough for cooking purposes. Every effort was made, however, by cleaning out the cavity, to collect the water with the greatest possible economy; but after all we could do we could only water the animals by successive bucketfuls, and that at intervals of several minutes. At this rate it was evident the animals would die before we could satisfy them. I then visited, with Lieutenants Putnam and Murry, the other spring, about a mile to the northwest, and found scarcely a pint of water in it.. Prospect of watering the mules gloomy enough! Notice, bearing magnetically N. 20 E., probably 12 miles off, in the Champlin Mountains, what appears to be a creek and plenty of grass. As soon as possible send all the mules except the weakest, which can be watered here, to said creek, under care of four dragoons and eight teamsters, Mr. Reese and the old crippled Indian we have found here going along as guides. This Indian has his hip out of joint, but was perfectly willing and anxious to go if we would put him on a mule. He was therefore bodily lifted up and placed on the mule, and he went off very cheerfully. The spring which he showed us, and near which he has his wick-e-up, I call the Good Indian Spring, after this Good Samaritan Indian. Certainly such dis- interestedness as he has shown deserves at least this small tribute. The anxiety he displayed in his gestures and language to get our animals to water, in our present strait, has been remarkable, and looks like a signal interposition of Providence for our relief. The greater portion gf the mules have been without water since about noon day before yesterday, that is 54 hours, and they will not get any till they reach the creek, 12 miles distant, which will take four hours more. It was pitiable to-day to see them huddling together at the spring and eager to stick their noses in it, and yet of necessity forced away with the whip. Some of them were so dry as to eat the moist mud. The weather has been excessively warm, and this has added to the thirst. O, the value of water, and how little it is prized when it is to be had in abundance! These trips across our desert plains make it very plain why such value, in the days of Abraham, Isaac, and _ Jacob, was placed on wells. _ The mountains in which we are encamped I call after Major Irvin McDowell, REPORT AND JOURNAL. 129 assistant adjutant-general. It contains an abundance of the finest kind of grass, and is covered with cedars. Its geological formation js igneous. The springs near us are represented by the good Indian as having been made by some horse-thieves (white men) about a year and a half ago. Our route to-day was across a divide about a mile from last camp, and then down a cafion, to within a mile of Sevier Lake Desert on southeast side of these mountains, and then up a ravine across the crest again of the mountain to the north slope of cation, leading down to Salt Lake Desert, or Sevier Lake Desert, as the dividing rim is scarcely perceptible. Road good. Journey, 5.6 miles. 3 This evening, about 9 o’clock, we had a shower of ‘rain, accompanied with pretty severe thunder and lightning. The party driving the herd to water has a dark night of it. July 31, Camp No. 31, Good Indian Spring.—Longitude, 113° 56’ 36”; latitude, 39° 46’ 09’; elevation above the sea, 5,771 feet; thermometer at 6.30 a. m., 78°. We have been enabled to water, during the night and this morning, the weak mules that have been left behind of the herd that was driven off yesterday evening. Some of them drank as many as 9 bucketfuls, and yet stuck around the spring until they were driven away. One of them, Sergeant Barr informs me, actually drank, in the course of a couple of hours, as many as 14 bucketfuls before he was satisfied. The truth is, on these dry deserts the whole system of man and beast becomes so arid and depleted, on account of the dry and, therefore, evaporating power of the air upon the fluids of the body, as to require not only a sufficiency of water to satisfy the ordinary demands of thirst, but to supply the dessication of the whole system from this cause. The wagon which was left at our last camp was brought in to-day. Several of the mules, in their anxiety to get water, got mired in the mud-spring, and had to be hauled out? At 1 p. m. Stevenson, Sanchez, and the son of the good Indian, who had been their guide, came in, and reported they reached the south end of Rush Valley yesterday at 12 m., where Pete left them for Camp Floyd. Stevenson reports in the direction of our route ahead of us water and grass at convenient distances, and the pass across the Guyot range, to the more southern portion of Rush Valley, practicable. Mr. Reese returned this afternoon, and reports that the herd last night, during the thunder-storm, and in the darkness of the night, in a thick grove of cedars, got 'sepa- rated, and, while the strong animals, under him and the good Indian, pushed forward and reached the water about 14 miles distant, the weak ones had lagged behind and ~ had gone in another direction to find water. He thinks they will be joined together again to-day and be driven back to-morrow. : At 7 p. m. the good old Indian, crippled as he is, eame in and discovered by his words and gestures that though he was very much fatigued, yet he had a good heart toward us. He made signs to us to show that his helplessness was such as to make it necessary for him to be lifted bodily from his horse. He was taken off and carried to near the cook fire, and I had a supper prepared for him. All hands feel grateful to him for his extraordinary kindness to us. He had permitted his son, who was his only support and protector, to go away with the guide-party for several days, and now he had done us the signal service, crippled as he was, to conduct our mules to 17 BU 130 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. water, and thus possibly save them from perishing and us from failing in this portion of our route. Of course we all felt grateful, and testified it by some presents to him and his son. The fine Spanish knife I gave him he seemed to particularly prize Believing that “Wolf’s Schnapps” would prove acceptable to him as a restorative, I - handed him some, but he immediately smelt of it and replied, ‘No bueno” (no good), at the same time rubbing his hip, thus indicating that he wished it to be applied there. It was so applied, much to his satisfaction. His only mode of locomotion is on his haunches and hands, just as I have seen children who could not walk propel them- selves forward. Of course this mode of progression bore heavily on his hands, which were very liable to be cut by the rocks and rough sage-brush over which he was required to make his way, and he expressed a wish that a pair of gloves might be given him to protect them, which was done. In his case it was gloves that were con- sidered highly valuable for purpose of locomotion through sage-brush; but in the case of the Go-shoot and Digger Indians generally, it is moccasins, which, on account of the great difficulty of entrapping or killing any larger animal than the rabbit, they cannot easily command. Our sympathy for the poor cripple has been such as to sug- gest a pair of crutches for him, and Mr. Jagiello has manufactured a pair. He is pleased with the present, but makes no attempt to use them. He is treated so much like a king that he looks upon us occasionally with a look of wonder, and seems to ask himself, ‘(Is this attention indeed real?” and then breaks out into a laugh, in which is intermingled as much of astonishment as joy. At his request, I have permitted him to sleep in camp, the only strange Indian to whom this privilege has been granted on the trip. August 1, Camp No. 31, Good Indian Spring—Thermometer at 6 a. m., 66°. The old, crippled Indian is named Quah-not. I had him helped up this morning, and the crutches put under him, but, alas! find he cannot stand on either leg. We had thought it was only one leg that was affected, but it appears now that he is paralyzed from his loins down, and this is the reason why he has not availed himself of the crutches. His son’s name is Ah-pon. | : 9 a. m—The mules which were sent to water night before last are momentarily expected, but we think it best to get the mules we have with us to the next water as . soon as possible, since the spring where we are is so small that, without the use of troughs to collect and economize the water, but few animals can be watered satisfacto- rily. The civil portion of my party, with three wagons, therefore, move forward, leav- ing the balance to follow us as soon as the other mules arrive. Pass down cation, in a northwardly direction, through a thick grove of cedars, over a rolling country, skirt- ing McDowell Mountains to our right, and in about seven miles reach a desert valley or plain running southeastwardly from Great Salt Lake Valley into Sevier Valley. In about two miles more, reach west foot of bench of Champlin Mountains, and encamp at half past 2 within about two miles of good and abundant water and grass in cation of the mountains, to which the mules are driven. Journey 9.2 miles; road good. About an hour after getting into camp, Sergeant Miller passed us with the remaining portion of the herd on his way to our old camp. It appears that the herd which became sep- _ arated night before last only got together this morning. The spring, creek, and cafion near our camp I call after Assistant Surgeon Thomas H. Williams, United States Army REPORT AND JOURNAL. 131 The sunset from our camp this evening superb. The amber hue of the sky, the purple and roseate clouds in the west, and the variegated colors of the clouds in other parts of the heavens, make up a fine view. : About dark, Pete came in with a large mail from Camp Floyd, having first visited our old camp at Good Indian Spring. It was pleasant to see so large a bundle of letters and papers for me; but, alas! the black-edged envelopes of many of them showed that, since the last mail, the insatiable destroyer had been at work. August 2, Camp No. 32, Williams’s Spring—Elevation above the sea, 4,558 feet, Thermometer at 6 a. m., 66°. At half past 2 this morning, Lieutenant Murry, with the other portion of our party, joined us. At 5 a. m., after getting breakfast, the whole . party moved forward; general course eastwardly, around the southwest base of Cham- plin Mountains. The rim or dividing line between the Great Salt Lake Desert and Sevier Lake Desert is so slight as to be scarcely perceptible. The Champlin Mountains to our left are abundantly clothed, in the ravines, with grass, and running springs are to be seen in the same localities. Cedars are also abundant. At half past 12 we reach a creek flowing from the Champlin Mountains, upon which we encamp. This creek is four feet wide and a few inches deep; bottom, gravelly; banks four feet high. Grass in abundance on side-hills near camp. I call it after Maj. Henry Prince, paymaster United States Army. The road to-day, in places, stony and rough, and occasionally hilly, on account of ravines. Soil of main valley, areno-argillaceous; benches of mountains, gravelly and stony. The animals have been scarcely able to get the wagons to camp, so much have they suffered for the past few days on account of the absence of water and incessant traveling. August 3, Camp No. 33, Prince’s Creek.—Elevation above the sea, 5,411 feet. Ther- mometer at 5.30 a. m., 685°. Start at quarter to 6, in advance of party for Camp Floyd, Pete accompanying. Continue up Prince Creek for half a mile, and then leave it to left, and pass up a branch cafion, filled with cedars, one-half mile more, to sum- mit of pass. These canons are of good grade. From summit of pass, by pretty good descent, get into a valley, which I call after Maj. Fitz John Porter, assistant adjutant- general. This is a fine grass valley, and is well supplied with water. It is an excel- lent valley for stock, both summer and winter. The grove of cedars in it, in which the cattle could take shelter during driving storms in the winter, is quite extensive and thick. I notice that Russell & Co. have a herd of cattle feeding in this and the south- ern portion of Skull Valley, to the north of it. Proceeding northwardly through this valley, in 2.3 miles cross Porter’s Creek; 2.7 miles more brings us to the slight rim or divide between Skull Valley and Porter Valley, and 3.2 miles more to a spring, which I call after Assistant Surgeon Charles Brewer, United States Army. Turning northeast, or to the right, in 2.3 miles you reach, by a pretty good ascent, the summit of - Guyot range, by what I call Oak Pass, about 5 miles south of General J ohnston s Pass. This pass leads, across the Guyot range of mountains, to Rush Valley. Chief obstacle to a road in this pass is the oak brush, which, for wagons, will have to be cut away for about half a mile, and the road will have to run in the bottom of the canon, where it is very narrow, and, in some places, stony. A road, however, can be got through by filling the gully in some places, and enlarging in others. The descent into 133 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Rush Valley from summit, for about sixty yards, is pretty steep; balance easy. Some little filling up of bottom of cafion and at crossings necessary, and a little cutting of oak bushes. Two miles from summit reach east foot of pass in Rush Valley. The southern and southwestern portion of this valley for 8 or 10 miles in every direc- tion is covered with beautiful and luxuriant grass, and so are the bases of the mount- ains. ‘There are some springs to the south of the pass in the valley. From east foot of pass strike northeastwardly across Rush Valley for Camp Floyd Pass, in 6.7 miles crossing Meadow Creek, a flowing stream, 4 feet wide and 6 inches deep, and along which are good camping places; in about 18 miles more attaining summit of Camp Floyd Pass, and in about three miles more, at 7.15 p. m., reaching Camp Floyd. Road to-day, except as stated, through Oak Pass, good. J ourney 44.5 miles. Reported to General Johnston in person same evening. August 4, Camp F'loyd—At my suggestion, by direction of General J ohnston, two men, with Pete as guide, and two pack-animals, were sent out this morning to my party. They take four days’ provisions for the command, and some sharp hatchets to cut away the oak brush in Oak Pass of the Guyot range. The following orders have been issued: [Special Orders No. 64.] . HEADQUARTERS DEPARTME . Camp Floyd, Utah, August 4, 1859. 1. The infantry portion of the escort to the topographical exploring party under Capt. James H. Simpson will be replaced by one non-commissioned officer and ten privates*from the same arm of service at Camp Floyd. This detach- ment will be formed from those men of the command whose term of service will expire in or about the month of No- vember. The detachment from Company A, Second Dragoons, will continue to form part of the escort, and join the company at Fort Kearney. ; Second Lieut. Alexander Murry, Tenth Infantry, will continue in command of the escort, and furnish all assistance necessary to enable Captain Simpson to perform the duties with which he is charged. 2. The command will ganize immediately on its return to Camp Floyd, and prepare to march on the 9th instant, rationed for twenty-two days, five-sevenths of the meat-ration on the hoof. 3. The proper staff department will provide the necessary transportation and supplies. 4. Captain Simpson will dispatch a subaltern of his party over the last 100 miles of his new route, with minute instructions to straighten the portion west of Rush Valley, and establish guide-marks upon it. A detail of one non-commissioned officer and ten dragoons, rationed for twelve days, will escort this officer. This detachment will be immediately prepared, and held ready to march on the arrival of the surveying party, The depot quarterinaster will provide the necessary transportation and material for making stakes, and also for water-troughs at a particular point which Captain Simpson will designate. By order of Bvt. Brig. Gen. A. 8. Johnston. F. J. Porter, . Assistant Adjutant General. August 5, Camp Floyd—Topographical party, with escort under Lieutenant Murry, reached this post this afternoon. It seems that Pete was too late in reaching Lieutenant Murry with the hatchets, the party having got through the difficult portion of Oak Pass before they met. The road through the pass has not been made as prac- ticable for wagons as I had intended, but, in consequence of the General Johnston Pass, 5 miles farther north, being wider and therefore not so liable to obstruction by snow in the winter, and it not lengthening the route a great deal, probably my return route should have come into Rush Valley by this pass. In order to make this con- nection with my outward route, Lieutenant Smith has received from me, by direction of General Johnston, verbal orders to this effect, and also the following instructions in _ relation to the shortening the route between Tyler's Springs and William’s Spring, and establishing water-troughs at the Marmaduke Spring : REPORT AND JOURNAL. 133 Camp FLoyp, Urtan, August 5, 1859. Sir: You will to-morrow proceed to Camp No, 32, near William’s Spring, on our return-route from Genoa, for the purpose of straightening the road thence to Tyler’s Spring, making the Marmaduke, or, as it has been called, the Big Horn Spring, a point of the road. The distance to Marmaduke Spring from Camp No. 32 is believed to be not more than 25 miles, and, by passing through the cafion most convenient to the spring, it is conjectured the distance from it to Tyler’s Spring will be about 16 miles, You will take with you suitable stakes and guide-boards for marking out the road, as also'a number of wooden troughs for the purpose of collecting and economizing the water of the Marmaduke Spring for the benefit of emigrants and other travelers. These troughs will be disposed of in the best way for the object in view, and established as firmly as may be required You will be escorted by a detachment of one non-commissioned officer and ten dragoons. Messrs. Reese and Stevenson, who are acquainted with the localities, will accompany you as guides. Fifteen days’ provisions will be carried, and the deputy quartermaster has been directed from headquarters to fur- nish you with the necessary transportation. He will also furnish you with the troughs, stakes, and tools which will be required. : On accomplishing this duty you will return with all dispatch to this post, and after turning over your escort and quartermaster’s property, join the topographical party, which will be encamped at Round Prairie, on the Timpanogos River, en route for Fort Leavenworth. - : Iam, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, i H. Srmpson, J. Captain Corps Fopographical Engineers. Lieut. J. L. K. Smrru, Corps Topographical Engineers. There were also issued to-day the following orders, by which it will be perceived that my instructions of April 26, before given, are so far modified as to cause me to make a reconnaissance for a practicable pass from the Timpanogos Valley, through the Uintah Mountains to Green Valley, and then return to Fort Leavenworth, via Fort Bridger: HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF UTAH, Camp Floyd, Utah, August 5, 1859. Sir: As, by the time you will be able to leave this camp, the season will be too far advanced to proceed to Fort Leavenworth by tbe headwaters of the Arkansas, and with safety make any important explorations beyond the Wah- satch range of mountains, the commanding general directs the following modifications of your instructions of the 26th April: That, as soon as you reorganize your party and train to adapt them to your fature duties, you proceed to Round Prairie, on the Timpanogos River, whence, after establishing camp in a suitable position for recruiting your animals, fe you will ascertain the practicability of opening a wagon-road to Green River, through the valley of the Uintah River; then, discharging those of your guide-party no longer needed, and sending, by the guide, to the commanding general report of the result of the examinations, you will continue to Fort Leavenworth via Fort Bridger, and carry out your former orders. There is reason to believe that you will, by this examination, connect this portion of the country with the valley of White River (on east branch of Green), ascending which a practicable road can easily be made and connected, if neces- sary, with the trail of Colonel Loring and Captain Gunnison ; but, on account of the imminent danger of being cmnges in the snows which fall early in the season in the elevated passes of the Rocky Mountains near the Parks, the a i 1 will not risk sending you that way. : = ceca! as from the plateau of the South Park an eastern outlet for wagons has not yet been discovered, he thinks it more ademeile to attempt, by special explorations up the branches of the South Platte and Arkansas, to unite by a practicable road the eastern with the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, and will suggest this course to the Secre- tary of War. : I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, F.J.P Assistant Adjutant General. Capt. J. H. Smwpson, : ee In charge of Surveying Party of Topographical Engineers. ; Pe August 6, Camp Floyd—Lieutenant Smith and party left this morning, pursuant to instructions of yesterday. A party of California emigrants, with seven wagons, | take, also, my return-route. I have furnished them with an itinerary. Balance of ? ? ° Rak 8 i . 2 . : ad aes atid my party engaged in preparations to leave this post, in prosecution of instructions from headquarters given above. | Adéue 7, Camp Floyd—An emigrant train of about thirty wagons passed through foe iforni lied them with an itine : aki ern route to California. Supplie itinerary. to-day, taking my more south 1 134 | EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. August 8, Camp Floyd—Gave Dr. Hobbs, agent of Russell & Co., an itinerary of my inward route. He intends to sénd immediately over it a thousand head of cattle to California. Lieutenant Murry, by virtue of the following orders, is relieved from the com- mand of the escort of my party: [Special Orders No. 67.] HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF : : amp Floyd, Utah, August 8, 1859. Second Lieut. Alexander Murry, Tenth Infantry, being an important witness for the United States in a case before the United States district court now in session in Salt Lake City, is relieved from the operation of paragraph 1, Special Orders No, 64, from these headquarters, and, so soon as he turns over the property for which he is responsible, will report to the commanding officer of Camp Floyd. : Captain Simpson will immediately appoint an officer of his party to relieve Lieutenant Murry of his responsibilities. The senior non-commissioned officer of the escort will report to Captain Simpson for duty By order of Bvt. Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston. F. J. PORTER, Assistant Adjutant General. In accordance with the foregoing orders, Lieutenant Putnam has been assigned the duties of quartermaster and commissary, as follows: OrricE TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, DEPARTMENT OF UTAH, : Camp Floyd, Utah, August 8, 1859. Sir: Lieut. Alexander Murry, Tenth Infantry, having been released from the command of the escort which has been directed to accompany the Topographical Engineer party to Fort Leavenworth, and therefore of the duties of acting assistant quart t d of acting assistant commissary, you will act in these capacities. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, : J. H. Suurson, ; aca - Powe: mek Captain Topographical Engineers. Corps Topographical Engineers. F August 9.—Left Camp Floyd at 12 m., in prosecution of orders of ‘August 5, from headquarters Department of Utah, given above. Party and escort consist, all told, - _of 54 persons. Have with us 8 quartermaster’s wagons, 1 large spring wagon, | light ambulance, . and 98 animals. Took the usually traveled road to the bridge over the Jordan; thence through the towns of Lehi, American Fork settlement, Battle Creek settlement, and valley of Timpanogos River to Round Prairie, where, August 10, we encamped. Dis- tance from Camp Floyd 50 miles. For description of these places and the Timpanogos Valley, I extract, as follows, from my report of the route I explored and opened from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger, under instructions from General J ohnston, command- ing the Department of Utah, last fall. This report is to be found in Senate Ex. Doc. No. 40, 35th Congress. 3 “DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTION OF THE ROUTE FROM CAMP FLOYD TO THE MOUTH OF THE TIMPANOGOS RIVER CANON, A DISTANCE OF 29.25 MILES. : ‘The routé from Camp Floyd pursues a course east of north for about 9 miles, when it passes over a low ridge, and, gradually turning more eastwardly, leaves Cedar. Valley, and gets into the valley of Jordan River, which river it crosses in 5 miles, by a toll-bridge sixty feet long; and thence, continuing its course eastwardly along, and 2 miles from, the foot of Utah Lake, in 2.75 miles reaches Lehi City; thence, turning _ gradually southwardly, and slightly diverging eastwardly from a parallelism to the | shore of Utah Lake, which it leaves to the right at about an average distance of 3.5 REPORT AND JOURNAL. 135 miles, and skirting the Wahsatch Mountains on your left, in 3 miles it passes through American Fork settlement (Lake City on the maps); in 3.25 miles more Battle Creek (Pleasant Grove on the map); and in 6.25 miles, reaches the mouth of Timpanogos River Cajon, which it crosses by a good ford. Whole distance from Camp Floyd 29.25 miles. “The road to this point, except occasionally where irrigating ditches cross it, is excellent, the only hills being those 9 miles out from Camp Floyd. The soil of Cedar Valley, as also that of Utah Valley, which is generally of a yellowish color, is of an areno-argillaceous character, superposed on sand, and the consequence is that, although containing all the elements of fertility, the rains are not of themselves copious and con- stant enough to keep it sufficiently moist to sustain vegetation. Where the land, there- fore, cannot be irrigated, which is the case in Cedar Valley, except in two or three localities of small area, the soil, for agricultural purposes, is utterly worthless. Along the road, however, in Utah Valley, in the neighborhood of the towns named, there are extensive fields, which, on account of the irrigation they receive, are quite productive. The irrigation is made possible by the availability of the mountain streams, Dry Fork, American Fork, and Battle Creek; the waters of which are distributed in acequias or ditches, from which the fertilizing element is carried over the soil in numerous rills. The first two streams are tributary to Lake Utah, and Battle Creek loses itself in the soil before reaching the lake. It is something notable that a large number of the fields have been abandoned from the soil becoming saline by use; and it is quite possible that from this cause a large portion of it will, in time, be rendered worthless. Indeed, while the country in the Territory, as a whole, presents a very insignificant fraction of cultivable soil, that which can be cultivated experience shows is likely to become barren from use. “The great staple is wheat, of which Mr. Bullock assures me as many as seventy- five bushels have been raised to the acre. This, however, is rare; forty bushels are more common, and generally not more than twenty. Oats and barley do well. Corn does not mature sufficiently, on account of the early frosts of autumn, and therefore but little is planted. Potatoes and garden vegetables generally grow quite luxuriantly. Fruits like the melon, peach, and apricot mature tolerably well, and the apple also grows here, but as yet I have seen none to assure me that they at all equal those which can be raised in the States. It is also to be borne in mind, in the cultivation of the cereals, vegetables, and fruits, that frequent irrigation is necessary; and to this, of course, is superadded all the other labor of tillage, which makes the aggregate of work necessary to make the soil produce to any advantage, excessive. The fields are gen- erally inclosed by mud walls, which not unfrequently give evidences of dilapidation. “The ordinary tract of land owned and cultivated by a single hand is twenty acres, though larger tracts are owned and cultivated by those who can afford to buy more and. command the necessary labor. There is grass along the route, except on the Jordan, and no wood. The fuel which is used by the inhabitants of the towns named is brought from the cations in the aaa at — great expense. Forage and | ver. are purchasable by the Government. : ~ ‘ Lehi City 6 walled as containing probably 100 houses and 1,000 inhabit- — 136 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ants. The houses are of adobes (sun-dried bricks), and in some instances of logs. The appearance of the town is rather indifferent, and indicates no great thrift.” ‘American Fork settlement (Lake City) has some 50 houses and probably some 500 inhabitants. The houses are generally adobe, quite small, and of but one story, all indicating a poor and shiftless population.” “Battle Creek settlement contains probably 60 houses, all small, mean-looking adobe huts, and the population is about 600. A very common mode of building in these towns is to take the earth from the foundation of the building to make the adobes, and thus have one story below and one above ground. The generality of the houses: is far below in character what obtains among the poorest of our population in the States. The roofs are generally of mud, and give frequent evidences of tumbling in; and the doors and windows all indicate penury and an inattention to cleanliness.” “Provo is a city in the valley of Lake Utah, about 5 miles south of the Timpan- ogos Cafion. It derives its name, according to Mr. Bullock, from a Frenchman of that name from Saint Louis, who was the first white man that ever came from Fort Bridger by way of the Timpanogos Valley.* The Timpanogos River has been, therefore, known among the inhabitants as the Provo River, and hence the origin of the name of the town near. It is much better built than the towns I have described. The guide who lives there, says it contains about 400 houses and probably 600 families, 7 to a family, or about 4,200 inhabitants in the whole town; to me rather a large estimate. It, like the other towns I have seen in Utah, is built ecintipalls of adobes; the houses, however, being generally small. Each town has a large building, which they call the tabernacle, and which is devoted to religious and secular purposes; the theater, I noticed, being held in one of them. The main street of Provo is probably eight rods wide, the others six. This town, like all the others I have described, is laid out in regular squares. ‘They are all inhabited by farmers, who cultivate the land contiguous to the town, and the yards are filled with the implements of husbandry, stacks of wheat and hay; and in the evening, during harvest, there is to be seen a constant succession of wagons, filled with the produce of the field, and ‘cattle driven in for security. The inhabitants send out their cattle in herds to pasture, the herdsman passing in the morn- ing from one end of the town to the other, and as he does so, sounding his horn as a signal for the owners to turn their stock into the general herd. The charge is about two cents per animal per day.” “FROM THE MOUTH OF TIMPANOGOS CANON TO THE TOP OF THE DIVIDE BETWEEN THE TIMPANOGOS AND SILVER CREEK, 31.5 MILES.t “The Timpanogos River is a splendid dashing mountain-stream of pure water of a width ranging in places from 30 to 100 feet, and generally about 2 feet deep. Large trout are found in it. Its bottom is rocky. Its sources are in the Uintah Mountains, from which it flows for about half its length (which probably is 60 miles) in a westerly * The name of this person was probably Pro-vost (pronounced Provo), and is doubtless the same referred to in Mr. _ Anderson’s letter, inserted in note (E) of Introduction. tFor an interesting account of the ZS paenges Riven Spin Weber River Valley,and White River Valley, see Captain Sockriths report of h lt Lake City and Green River, in the spring of 1854, (Pacific Railroad . Reports, vol. ii.) REPORT AND JOURNAL. 137 direction, and then, breaking through the Wahsatch Mountains, in a southwest direction for the balance of the way (30 miles) into Utah Lake. The road, after crossing the river by ford at the mouth of the canon, takes up its valley, which is deeply canoned for about 7 miles above its debouchment into Utah Lake Valley. The rocks on either side, commensurate with the caiion, especially on the south, are magnificent, and, encroaching as they do very nearly on the stream, show themselves in their full propor- tions. ‘Those on the south side have their escarpments very nearly vertical, while those on the north are girted at their base by terraces of narrow breadth. About 4 miles up the cafon, on its south side, may be seen a beautiful perennial waterfall of from 800 to 1,000 feet in height, and, coming as it does from such an altitude, and apparently fed by nothing, it is an object of a great deal of interest. I have called it on the map Beautiful Cascade. Through this canon, and 5 miles farther, say for a distance of 12 - miles from its mouth, there is‘at present a road which the people of the Territory con- structed last spring and summer. Previous to the opening of this-road, persons could pass only upon horseback along an Indian trail; the rocky promontories or points of the confining walls, as well as the narrowness of the cafon, effectually obstructing wheel-carriages. A company of citizens, however, have, by dint of great labor, cut through these promontories, made deep excavations along the steep, and in many instances rocky, side-hills, and have built up revetted embankments; the consequence of which is they have an excellent mountain-road, and one that does them a great deal of credit. The width of the roadway, however, in many places and for considerable distances, is not sufficient for teams to pass each other, and the turns are sometimes so short that heavy six-yoke ox-teams are liable, except the driver use the greatest care, to capsize into the stream below. The drainage of the mountain streams and rills from the upper side of the road is defective, and the consequence is that pools of water have been allowed to collect in the road, and the road at these places made boggy. With these defects obviated the road would be as good as is to be found anywhere. It was constructed by the inhabitants to open the communication to Round Prairie (an expan- sion of Timpanogos Valley, 14 miles above the mouth of the cation), and to enable the people of Provo to carry away the wood found along the river and in the side canons. About 1 mile above the mouth of the cation the road crosses the Timpanogos by an excellent bridge, 60 feet long. The tolls upon the road are here collected, and, as it is of interest to know the rates, I here insert a notice which I saw stuck up on the post of the toll-gate: Rates of toll on the Provo Cation road. For one cord of wood or timber hauled out..-- $1 00 For one pair of horses, mules, and carriage .--- ---- b0 For one horse, mule, and rider.----. - 10 Cattle, horses, or mules, driven up or down, for each head 05 Sheep and hogs- Sosk Weak done ob neces ; : 2d For each load of brick or hay ------------ The above is a correct list of rates 0 I instructed that no one will be permitted to travel the road without an order from Bish keeper will take due notice of the above instructions, and govern himself accordingly. Done by order of the county court of Utah County: ~ Z f toll as fixed by the county court. And all persons are hereby notified and op E. H. Blackburn, and the gate- E. H. Bracksurn, General Agent. 18 BU 138 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. “In this connection I think it proper to say that no permission was asked by me to go through the cation, and no objections were made; and this I believe has been the experience of all the Government and contractor’s trains which have passed over the route. | ‘To resume my account of the route. Four miles from the mouth of the cafion is the first sufficiently wide place for a small command to encamp, and here will be found plenty of grass. Two miles farther is the first sufficiently wide place for ox- teams to corral, and grass also exists here in abundance. Indeed, from this point as far as the road extends along the Timpanogos, a distance of 23 miles, at short distances can be found most excellent camping-places for the largest commands and trains. The river is well timbered from the mouth of the canon up, and there is every other requisite needed. ‘“‘As I have before remarked, the turnpike extends from the mouth of the cation for a distance of 12 miles. Thence the route continues along the ‘Timpanogos, cross- ing it about a mile above Wall’s ranch, and through Round Prairie for a distance of 10 miles, when it enters another caiion, or, rather, narrow valley, 4 miles long, where the river is in places obstructed for about 3 miles by beaver-dams and where the road for a few hundred yards is rather soft. This cation gone through and the line crossed again, the route leaves the main Timpanogos and, passing along a small tributary, in 4.5 miles commences going up the divide between the Timpanogos and Silver Creek, and in a distance of 1.5 miles, with a pretty fair grade and on rather a stony slope, reaches the summit. The principal timber on the creek is the oak, cottonwood, box- elder, sugar-maple, birch, and willow. Pine and the fir-tree are to be seen on the mountains. Currants, red and black; the sweet sarvisberry, and a blue berry like the small winter grape, and which the Mormons call the mountain grape, are found in considerable quantities in the valley. “In Round Prairie, near where Rattlesnake Creek debouches from the mountains, on the north side of the valley, are to be seen a number of hot springs, the highest point the thermometer indicating in any one of them being 109°.50. These springs, which are of great depth, well up from the surface, and, running over, deposit a residuum or tufa, which accumulates about their mouths and forms tumuli, in one instance of about 60 feet in height and 200 feet in diameter at base. These tumuli are hemispherical in some instances, and in others conical, and after attaining a certain height the water ceases to flow, and the walls begin to disintegrate and tumble down, and are eventually lost in the general level of the country. _ “For several miles the substratum, for a depth in some places of 60 feet, as far as could be discovered, was composed entirely of this calcareous rock, and there is no doubt it is entirely due to an origin of the same sort. Rattlesnakes abound about these springs, and in a warm summer's day you cannot tread near some of them with- out hearing their sharp rattle. Traces of coal are to be seen in the lower cation, near its mouth, and the guide informs me that he has picked up specimens in the creek, _ which, on that account, has been called Coal Creek. The Timpanogos Valley is _ remarkably well watered, and the traveler will be greatly pleased, particularly on a hot summer’s day, with the many cold, gushing, pure streams which he will cross, all . _ flowing into the Timpanogos, ; & REPORT AND JOURNAL. | : Jee “The grass, particularly in Round Prairie, where there is a great deal of meadow land, is abundant, and I know no place where stock could be better fed, sheltered, and watered during summer and winter. Already have stock-grazers gone into this valley and secured a considerable quantity of hay for the winter. The soil is, a great deal of it, of excellent character, and, as it is capable of being easily irrigated, I doubt not it will prove very productive.” I would add to the foregoing that Mr. Wall, who has a ranch at the lower portion of Round Prairie, informs me that, on the night of the 7th August last, a frost killed all the vines, corn, and vegetables he had planted as an experiment to see if they would mature in this valley. The spring wheat and oats were not injured, though the former is backward. He is confident that fall wheat, oats, barley, and rye will mature. Has 1,000 head of sheep and 2,000 head of cattle grazing in the valley. It is a singular circumstance that, higher up the valley, in Round Prairie, at Heber City, the frost has not proved near so destructive, it having as yet done little or no damage. The eleva- tion of Round Prairie above the sea is 5,571 feet. Longitude, 111° 25’ 56”; latitude, a0 29°20. August 12, Camp on Torbert’s Creek, Round Prairie—FElevation above the sea, 5,786 feet. Thermometer at 5.30 a. m., 43°. Having established my main camp at this point, I leave this morning to examine pass over Uinta range into Green River Valley, agreeably to orders of General Johnston of August 5th. Take with me one of my assistants, Mr. Henry Engelmann, (geologist and meteorologist, )ten dragoons, Mr, James Gammell, as guide, Ute Pete, Clark, and Dougherty, in all sixteen persons, with three pack-mules. After being engaged nine days in this reconnaissance, I returned to the main camp August 19, and reported the next day, as follows, to General Johnston: “Camp, TorBERT CREEK, Rounp Prairie, Timpanogos Vauiey, Uran Trerrirory, August 20, 1859. “Str: Agreeably to the orders of the commanding general of the 5th instant, I left Camp Floyd with my party on the 9th, reorganized for its return to the States, and prepared to make, on its arrival at this camp, the examination required in said orders, of the country intervening this and the Uinta Valley for the ascertainment of the practicability of a wagon-road hence to Green River. “T arrived here on the 11th; started on the exploration referred to the next day, and returned last evening. My course was about northeast 4.5 miles to mouth of Coal Creek Cation; thence, magnetically south 65° east, up the canon of Coal Creek about twelve miles, to summit of divide of the Uinta Mountains; elevation above the sea» 9,680 feet; thence down the valley of Potts’s Fork,* generally north 70° east, 24 miles, to its junction with Du Chesne’s Fork of the Uinta River; elevation above the sea, 6,814 feet; and thence, generally south 70° east, down the valley of the Du Chesne 39 miles, to its junction with the Uinta River. Longitude, 110° 20’ 33’ lati- tude, 40° 09’ 50’. Elevation above the sea, 5,345 feet. Whole distance from mouth of Coal Creek Canon to the Uinta River, 75 miles. Here my examination ended, on * This fork is a branch of Du Chesne’s Fork, and I have called it after the lamented Lieut. E. Kane Potts, Seventh Infantry, who died at ged Floyd April 23, 1859. He was a bright young officer, and greatly beloved by his brother officers and the sv ye 140: - EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. account of the dragoon-horses of the escort, all except one, giving out, and, of neces sity, having been left behind, 10 miles. Their crippled condition was produced by the extraordinarily rough, steep, and stony character of the reconnaissance from Round Prairie over the Uinta Mountains as far as the Du Chesne. It is gratifying to report that I found the pass of the Uinta range, by the way of Coal Creek Cafion and Potts’s Fork of the Du Chesne, the route I explored, a most excellent one. The gerade from Round Prairie to the summit of the Uinta range is quite good, and thence down to the Du Chesne’s Fork and to the Uinta still better. The route, however, is at present far from being practicable for wagons, and not even is it practicable for pack-mules with- out the very greatest tax upon man and animals; the most difficult and laborious recon- naissance I ever have made being from Round Prairie to the Fork of the Du Chesne, rendered so by willow, aspen, and fir thickets, and by steep and rocky precipices and ridges. It is not to be wondered that Mr. Gammell, the guide, in his previous exam- ination of the route, was obliged to leave his horse on account of its crippled condi- tion, and came near losing another. “The principal work required for the passage of wagons will be the removal of the fallen and standing timber, and willows in the bottom of Coal Creek Cafion, from its mouth to within about a couple of miles of the summit of the pass, say for about 9 miles; the removal of the willows in Potts’s Fork, from about 3 miles from the sum-_ mit all the way down, about 21 miles, to the fork of the Du Chesne, and the cause- waying of the miry places in the bottom of this creek, caused principally by beaver- dams. In the valley of the Du Chesne there will be required about 6 miles of not _very heavy cutting through cottonwood and brush, and some grading, to pass over several tolerably deep gullies. ‘My examination of Coal Creek Canon and Valley extended to the exploration of three parallel routes which presented themselves, to wit, the swale or vale under the mountain ridge to the north side of the creek; the swale under the mountain ridge to the south side of the creek; and the bottom of the creek or canon itself. The last, or that in the bottom of the creek, will require more work than the swale on the south side; but when done will make the best grade and road. The next best route, and requiring, perhaps, the least work, is the swale on the south side of the creek. “My examination also extended to the three branches or caions from the summit of the Uinta Pass, leading into the cation of Potts’s Fork. The best are the middle and most northern; either of which may be taken. “T have already stated that my exploration, of necessity, stopped short of Green River, having terminated at the junction of the Du Chesne’s Fork with the Uinta River. I consider, however, the reconnaissance conclusive as to the ascertainment of a pass from the valley of the Timpanogos to the Uinta River; and from the plateau or table character of the country, thence east to Green River, which could be very well seen, the practicability of the valley of the Uinta where I struck it, and the assurance of the guide, whose report of the route, as far as I have gone, except as to distance, I have found correct in every particular, that the valley of the Uinta grew still wider and better for a road in proportion as it approached Green River, I have not the slightest doubt that a good wagon road can be made all the way from Round Prairie - ¥ REPORT AND JOURNAL. 141 to Green River, and that the i ay work bps will be that which I have already specified. “T consider the discovery of this pass, in connection with the Timpanogos route through the Wahsatch range, a most fortunate one, and doubt not it will end in the formation of a wagon-route all the way through the Rocky Mountains, which will greatly ameliorate the present traveled routes, and be of great service in the extension of my lately puis ed route from California eastward by way of Denver City to the States. “Tam preparing to leave for Fort Leavenworth to-morrow morning. ‘“‘T am, major, very respectfully, your obedient servant, “J. H. Srmpson, ‘Captain Corps Topographical Engineers. ‘Major F. J. Porter, “Assistant Adjutant General, Camp Floyd, Utah Territor eg would add to the foregoing that the route, as far as the Uinta River, is quite well wooded: on Coal Creek Cafion with cottonwoods and fir trees; on Potts’ Creek with the fir, and on the Du Chesne with the cottonwood and dwarf cedar. I would also remark that the valley of the Du Chesne, which varies from a quarter to two miles wide, is a great deal of it cultivable, and as it lies well for irrigation is well watered, and probably warm enough for crops.. I doubt not when it shall have been made accessible by a good wagon-road it will rapidly fill up with population. The valley of the Uinta, Mr. Gammell represents as also being very fine, all the way to Green River, being covered with groves of large cottonwood, beautiful grass, and so lying as to be easily irrigated. It is, besides, accounted as one of the warmest valleys in the Territory. He says it is from one to ten miles wide. Both the Du Chesne Fork — and the Uinta River, where they meet, are about 50 feet wide, and from one to three feet deep. The former is said to contain trout and white-fish, the white-fish weighing from 10 to 25 pounds. ‘The valleys of these rivers are deeply seated between inclos- ing heights, varying from 200 to 500 feet. The formation of the rocks is like that of White Clay Creek, whitish sandstones alternating with sandstone shales. Besides the value of the discovery of this pass, in connection with the extension of my routes, and the establishment of the magnetic telegraph from California directly eastward, through the Rocky Mountains, via Denver City, or some other Pike’s Peak country town, to the States, and thus shortening the present postal route from Camp Floyd to Saint Joseph from 60 to 100 miles, the construction of the road will be of great value in opening an avenue of trade between the Mormon settlements and the . Pike’s Peak country, by which the produce of the former may be conveyed to the latter, much to the benefit of the miners. It will be also noticed that a link of about 100 miles, between the mouth of Du Chesne’s Fork and Gunnison’s route, along the Grand River, which the guide says is practicable, will open a route to the headwaters of the Arkansas, and to Santa Fé from Camp Floyd; which will be much shorter, and, doubtless, in other respects much preferable to the present roundabout route, by the way of Salt Creek and the Sevier Valley. * ~ 142 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT. BASIN OF UTAH. Pete says the Indians call the Uinta the Pow-up. He does not know its meaning. The Du Chesne, which they call the Kopes-se-parge, or Smoky Fork, according to them, is a tributary of the Ke-air-re-gan, which comes from the northeast into the Du Chesne, about 13 miles above its junction with the Uinta, and carries its name all the way to the Uinta. The two streams, at their junction, are about the same in size. The bull-berry is very abundant in the valley of the Du Chesne, and as the bear is very fond of them, the signs of these animals are very fresh and frequent. I have noticed also the prairie dog; the location being the most western limit of these animals I have observed. The branch of the Uinta, called on the maps Lake Fork, the Indians call Whi-tum-bitch, or Yellow Rock Creek. I have inquired of Pete the meaning of Uinta. He thinks it may possibly have come from the word U-umph, which means, a sort of pine common to the Uinta range. On my return to main camp, August 19, found Lieutenants Murry and Smith had just arrived and joined the party. The former has joined the expedition again, agreeably to the following orders: [Special Orders No. 72.] : HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF UtTaH, ‘Camp Ployd, Utah, August 17, 1859. Second Lieut. Alexander Murry, Tenth Infantry, will join and take command of the escort to the exploring party under Captain Simpson, Topographical Engineers. e depot quartermaster will provide the necessary transportation for Lieutenant Murry and Lieut. J. L. Kirby Smith, Topographical Engineers, and his party, now at this post. By order of Byt. Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston: F, J. Porter, Assistant Adjutant-General. August 20, Camp, Torbert’s Creek, Round Prairie—Thermometer at 7 a. a1, 65". I have received, to-day, from Lieutenant Smith the following report, in fulfillment of my instructions, given to him at Camp Floyd, August 5: southern balf, crossing a number of ravines eat a detour. From the return-trail from California, a distance of three miles. I encamped near here on the 7th ; Mr. Reese, the guide, whom ad sent forward in the morning to examine a su pposed pass through the Champlin Mountains, returned at night and On the 8th I proceeded by your trail to the point three miles from William’s Spring, instructions as camp “ No. 32.” On the morning of the 9th three mules from one of the tea and the day was passed in an unsnecessful attempt to find them. Leaving Stephen mule, to continne the search for the lost animals, I moved on at nightfall for Marmaduke or Big Horn Spring. I fol- Marmaduke Spring about 3 p.m. We found here, by digging, sufficient wate soon ceased to fill up, and the water gave out entirely before night. at this point was nothing more than a reservoir of rain-water, retained in a natural Dasin of rocks and protected trem evaporation by the sand which fills the basin. I found the distance from the camp verilying nearly your previous estimate. ay + REPORT AND JOURNAL. 143 On the 11th I proceeded to Tyler’s Spring by the most direct ronte possible, finding a good pass through the mountain west of Big Horn Spring. LIimproved Tyler’s Spring by digging several new reservoirs there, and on the 12th commenced my return. I adopted a pass through the mountain west of Big Horn Spring, a little north of the pass I used going out, and preferable to it in some respects. Being forced to abandon Big Horn Spring as a camping or watering place, it seemed necessary to make the Good Indian Spring a point of the route, and I decided to carry the troughs thither. I sent Mr. Reese forward, accordingly, to ascertain the best route to Indian Spring. He found a very direct eligible route thither, and we reached that point on the morning of the 13th instant. The distance from Tyler’s Spring to Good Indian Spring, by the trail I followed, is 35 miles. I remained at the latter spring during the 13th and 14th, placing the troughs and perfecting their arrangement as far as possible. On the night of the 14th Stephenson arrived with the lost mules. I left Good Indian Spring on the 15th, following your trail to within two and a half miles of Camp No. 32, near William’s Spring. Here I diverged to the right, striking your trail again about two miles this side of the camp near William’s Spring, cutting off between one and two miles of the distance from Indian Spring to Prince’s Creek, and reducing that distance to 16 miles. [ adopted no further changes in the roate [ pursued going out, from Prince’s Creek to Camp Floyd, which post I reached on the 17th instant. Wherever the trail I adopted intersected or diverged from any other wagon-trail, the route to Carson’s Valley was indicated by a guide-board, and if the other fork was a trai] which I had abandoned, it was ditched across and further obstructed by sage or cedar brush party of emigrants, with six wagons, overtook me going out, near William’s Spring,and followed my outward trail to Tyler’s Spring. Returning I met upon the proper trail five other parties, having in all, I should think, about thirty wagons, and one herd of cattle numbering a thousand head. I gave them all such information as they required about the route ahead of them, and have no doubt they followed the trail I recommended to Tyler’s Spring, making that the most marked and best beaten road. In compliance with your instructions I have added to your itinerary of the route from Genoa to Tyler’s Spring my notes of the route from that point to Camp Floyd. 1 am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, . L. Kirsy Smita, Second Lieutenant Topographical Engineers. Capt. J. H. Srmpson, Corps of Topographical Engineers. The day spent in reporting by letter to General Johnston result of expedition to Uinta Valley (report given above), and preparing for return to Fort Leavenworth, via Fort Bridger. ; August 21, Camp Torbert’s Creek, Round Prairie—Whole party decamped this morning, on its return to the States. Course up the valley of the Timpanogos. Having reached the point where the road leaves the main branch of the Timpanogos, we encamped. Journey 14 miles. Since my exploration of this valley last fall a small settlement called Heber City, containing ten families, has sprung up in Round Prairie. The frost, two weeks since, nipped the potatoes here, but did not permanently injure them; they are still growing finely, and already some are eatable and have been sold in our camp. Lieutenant Swaine and family arrived, on their way to Camp Floyd, this after- noon, and have encamped near us. August 22, Camp, bend of Timpanogos River.—Longitude, 111° 26’ 03” ; lati- tude, 40° 36’ 15’; thermometer at 8.30 a. m., 64°. Wishing to see if my route to Fort Bridger from Camp Floyd, via Timpanogos, Weber, and White Clay Creek | Valleys, opened last fall, can be shortened, I have directed Lieutenant Murry to proceed with the main party and wagon-train, independently of me, to Fort Bridger, by that route, and I take a party of seven persons, including my assistant, Mr. Englemann, with two pack-animals, for the purpose of exploring a more direct route by the way of Kamas Prairie, the east fork of the Weber and one of its tributaries, across to the head of White Clay Creek, or Bear River. 2 I reached Fort Bridger with my party August 26, and find that Lieutenant Murry with the train and main party had reached there the day before. As my report to Ee 144 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. General Johnston of the results of my side reconnaissance is sufficiently explicit, I insert an extract from it below instead of the journal. I refer the reader to my pub- lished report, before adverted to, to be found in Senate Executive Document No. 40, Thirty-fifth Congress, Second session, for a detailed account of my route of last fall, pursued by Lieutenant Murry, as also of Kamas Prairie, and other portions of country contiguous. I met Lieutenant-Colonel Chapman, Fifth Infantry, with a battalion of recruits and train of wagons, on my route between the Muddy and Sulphur Creeks, and he expressed himself as being very much pleased, as far as he had gone on it from Fort Bridger. | Fort Bringer, Uran, August 27, 1859. Masor: I have the honor to report that, wishing to improve if possible my route of last fall from Camp Floyd to Fort Radior by avoiding the worst portion of it, White Clay Creek, in whole or in part, I left the main portion of my party en route, in Timpanogos Valley, for Fort Bridger, August 22, and with an escort of four dra- goons, three civil employés, and a couple of guides, who professed, each, to know different portions of the country, proceeded to make the exploration requisite for the purpose. Our provisions and necessary equipage were carried on two pack-mules. I found a feasible wagon-route as follows: Leave my old route at a point in Timpanogos Valley, in sight of where the road commences to ascend the steep portion of the divide between the Timpanogos and Silver Creeks, that is, about a mile below the foot of the ascent; from this point pass up on the top of a low spur, with good and regular grade, to near summit; and thence, by taking advantage of the swales or vales of the divide, pass along their sides to the summit of the divide, 2.5 miles from the branch of the Timpanogos you have left; elevation above the sea, 6,955 feet; thence taking down a ravine of good grade (general direction east), which widens gradually into a fine, wide vale, full of grass, in 3 miles you reach Kamas Prairie, 6,244 feet above the sea; thence in a course very nearly direct to the mouth of the cation of the east branch of Weber (bearing slightly to the right of it), in about 7.25 miles, you cross Kamas Prairie over very good ground, and reach, the east fork of Weber, which you ford; thence pass up the canon of this fork of Weber 8.5 miles, about a mile of it through thick aspen timber, the balance, principally in the bottom, covered with willows, which, however, are not large; thence you leave the Weber and turn to the left up a rather narrow cafion, which I call Clarke’s Caiion, after Captain Clarke of the Subsistence Department, where some cutting would be necessary through aspen and willows thickets, and two or three small points of hills should be taken off with the pick and shovel; 4.5 miles up this canon, with tolerable grade, brings you to the summit of the pass of the high range between the Weber and _the heads of White Clay Creek; elevation of summit above the sea, 8,953 feet ; _ thence, turning gradually to the right, skirt closely for 9.25 miles the high ridge of the _ mountain range, keeping just below it and crossing through aspen thickets, a number _ of the heads of the tributaries of White Clay Creek, you are brought over a very : ee and rich country to the main branch of White Clay Creek ; thence, in 55 down this main branch, with good grade, you: connect at the as end of ae ae = the Upper cation of White Clay Creek with my wagon-road of last fall. This is one REPORT AND JOURNAL. 145 connection. Another would be, not to go down entirely to the old road, but, passing down the branch only about a mile, to cross it and, turning by a heavy side-cut for about 100 yards up a high ridge on the right, strike over so as to join the old road about 8 or 9 miles above the point of junction with old road above mentioned. The first connection would shorten the present Timpanogos route about 7 miles; the second about 12. The first route could be opened by any command equal to a company in twenty days between Fort Bridger and Camp Floyd. The second would require a day or two longer. In respect to the character of the route it would be shorter as stated than my old route, and the bottom of the Weber, though moist and principally covered with willows, would furnish a drier road than White Clay Creek bottom ; but the objections te it are that, though the grass along it might prove sufficient, yet for 9 miles along the north side of the range, between the Weber and White Clay Creek, the road would be exceedingly hilly, and, as the soil is very rich, would cut up considerably until it could become packed by use. Another objection is that, on this high mountain range, the road could not be used early in the spring or late in the fall, on account of snow. Taking the advantages and disadvantages together, and the fact that during dry weather my road of last fall down the valley of White Clay Creek is as good a one in every respect, almost, as needs be, as all who will travel over it at such times, I think, will testify; and that when the country is wet the newly proposed route would be almost, if not quite, as exceptionable on that account as the old, and the trains would in preference take the old Echo Canon route as far as the Weber, and then turn up the Weber to join my Timpanogos route; it is scarcely, I think, expedient that the route I have just explored should be opened, at least by the troops. Lieutenant Murry and Lieutanant Putnam report that they had not the slightest difficulty in getting the train of my party over my White Clay Creek route, and the fact that the traveling time from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger was only 8.5 days, and that in every instance they got into can before 6 in the a are evidences in favor of the route. There is a slough, however, about pane fourth of a mile to the east of the main branch of Bear River which should be corduroyed or causewayed with logs without delay. Ten men, with two wagons and sharp axes, might do it on the ground in two days. This done, in ordinary dry weather the road will be a very good one, and by some considerable outlay in causewaying in places in the bottom of White Clay Creek it could be made a good road at all times. I regret to say that in my reconnaissance I lost a dragoon horse and one mule, which could not be turned back to camp, in a thick aspen thicket after dark. Every exertion was made to recover them, I stopping a day for the purpose, but with no. avail. The guides have promised, if possible, on their return to find them, and one of them to take them into Camp Floyd, as well as a pack-saddle I was obliged to leave. The names of these guides are Charles E. Colton and Hiram Oakes. They live at_ Heber City in —— Prairie, and either of them, if called upon, would show the route I have described. It might be best, instead of taking up the bottom of the Clarke’s Cation from the 1IYBU ; cae EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Weber to the Uinta Divide, to run the road up, and on top of, the ridge on either side of the cafion, as might be found expedient. I expect to leave for Fort Leavenworth Monday morning, the 29th instant. I am, major, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. H. Srmvpson, Captain Corps Topographical Engineers. Major F. J. Porter, . Assistant Adjutant-General, Camp Floyd, Utah. Auyust 27, Fort Bridger—Longitude, 110° 23’ 47”; latitude, 41° 20’ 23”; alti- tude above the sea, 6,656 feet; thermometer at 5.30 a. m., 37°.5. Replenishing ‘supplies and preparing for a move on the 29th. August 28, Fort Bridger —Lieutenant-Colonel Canby, the commanding officer of this post, informs me that oats, spring wheat, barley, potatoes, and turnips, grow well in this locality; beets tolerably well. The sutler, Judge Carter, has a farm at Camp Supply, 12 miles higher up, on Smith’s Creek, where agriculture does better than at this point, owing, as it is supposed, to the winds in that direction keeping off the frost. The season this sammer, however, has been much better than usual, more rain having fallen than was ever known before. Colonel Canby has had a saw-mill put up by the soldiers, made up of the parts of two mills, which saws 4,000 feet per day, and the cost per 1,000 feet does not exceed $10. | To-day a train of about 100 hand-carts passed the fort, drawn by Mormon men and women, all having a sort of harness suitable for the work. I did not see it, but the officers who did pronounced it a most lamentable sight. August 29, Fort Bridger—My party left this morning, in prosecution of its march eastward to Leavenworth, via South Pass. Arrived at Fort Laramie September 17, Fort Kearney October 3, and Fort Leavenworth October 15. As this route has been so frequently reported on by others it will be unnecessary for me to say anything in relation to it. I think it proper, Sree to record the singular meteorological phenomenon, which I witnessed on the Big Sandy, on the night fof the 1st of Sectember: and I do it by inserting the letter I aidicioed to Pisiomae Henry, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, on the subject. “Camp No. 33, Norra Fork or Puatre River, “Six Hunprep anp Nixety-two Mives rrom Camp Froyp, “Ein RouTE TO Fort Leavenwortu, September 23, 1859. “ DEAR Sir: Although keeping a meteorological diary in my reconnaissance, which may, eventually be ‘Erought to your notice, yet it has occurred to me that the remarkable phenomenon I witnessed on the night of the 1st of September instant, on the Big Sandy, a branch of Green River, in ndieie about 42° north, and longitude _ 109° 50’ west of Greenwich, ought to be brought to your attention at once, so that it may be used in any comparison you might wish to make of like phenomenon which ae | might have been noticed before or at the same period in other portions of the globe. | oe! had retired to bed and 2s to sleep, when waking up and perceiving it quite REPORT AND JOURNAL. 147 light and no one stirring in camp, I began to think that the cooks had not been called by the guard, and that we were likely to have a late start for the day. ‘Taking up my watch, which was lying on the table near me, I could distinctly read on its metallic face the time of the night, and, to my surprise, found it was only 11 o’clock. Before I went to bed, about 9 o’clock, the moon had set, and I recollected that it was with some difficulty I had been able to discern the figures of a couple of my assistants who were taking astronomical observations, though they were not far from me. These facts were curious, and I leaped to the front of my tent to clear up the matter. As soon as I looked out the anomaly was explained. About two-thirds of the whole southern celestial concave was one sheet of beautiful roseate light. “For a while the light continued in a state of repose, the most concentrated portion forming a belt, and extending from a point on the horizon a few degrees north of east (about 10) clear across the heavens to a point on the horizon about due west. From this belt the light, with its roseate hue, was diffused southwardly all over the heavens, with marked distinctness, down to the arc of a circle, the angle of whose plane with the horizon was about 10 degrees. ‘For a period, as stated, the phase of the phenomenon appeared constant; it then changed gradually, alternately varying to a less or greater intensity, the rosy light still remaining diffused. At length, however, the light assumed a more intense form and shot up in whitish coruscations from the base or lower limit of the illuminated portion to the apex or crown, which was about 20° to the south of the zenith; the _appearance of the concave all this while being that of an illuminated globe divided into an innumerable number of meridians, and the vanishing-point or apparent pole the apex referred to. . : : “At the time of the phenomenon, I observed the magnetic needle, but could not perceive that it was sensibly affected by it. It being, however, only a pocket one, it could not, of course, be capable of expressing any but very large perturbations. “The phenomenon was so extraordinary and beautiful that I called up my assist- ants to observe it. It then appeared that one of them (Mr. Jagiello) had observed it at 10 o’clock, and, as it disappeared about 12, it must have lasted about 2 hours. “The aurora borealis, as seen north of the zenith, is a phenomenon of frequent — occurrence; but a southern illumination, like that I have described, I have never before seen, and I leave it to those who are familiar with such subjects to explain the cause.* | “ ] our obedient servant, I am, very respectful y, you ees ‘Captain Corps Topographical Engineers. ip ‘ps £0p “Professor JosepH Henry, LL. D., “ Secretary of Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C.” *I have received the following reply to this letter from Professor Henry : “ SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, WASHINGTON, D. C., October 25, 1859. - Dear Str: I write to thank you for your very interesting letter relative to the aurora borealis of the Ist of September, which is important, particularly on account of its locality and the precision with which you have de- scribed the phenomena. : : “ The information of the corona in your locality is an interesting fact, and, in connection with the other observa- tions of a similar kind in other places, will furnish the data for settling some points of importance in the theory of this 148 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. I cannot, however, conclude my report without expressing my acknowledgments to Maj. Hannibal Day, Second Regiment Infantry, the officer commanding at Fort Laramie, for his very courteous and acceptable treatment of the party while we were encamped near his post. It was in the cemetery of this post we buried Mr. Walter Lowry, the gentleman who had joined us at Genoa (see journal of June 20 and 24), and who accompanied us, with the expeetation that the trip would be of. benefit to his health, and that he would be enabled to reach his friends in Philadelphia. His disease was of a pulmonary character, and although at the outset of the journey he rallied a little and was enabled to ride for an hour or two on horseback, before he reached Camp Floyd he found himself incapable of this, and was necessitated to confine him- self to the carriage, to which he had eventually to be carried bodily. Major Day kindly permitted him to be cared for at the hospital, and Assistant Surgeon Johns rendered him all the medical aid he required. He survived, however, only one day after he reached the post. It is a pleasure to me to record the disinterested kindness of the sutlers of the post, Messrs. Ward and Fitzhugh, in disposing of the effects of the deceased, forwarding the proceeds to his friends, and placing, at my request, a memorial of him upon his grave. The deceased had for several years been connected with the papers in San Francisco, as commercial editor, and was highly esteemed by those who knew him. On the 19th October, having shipped at Fort Leavenworth for Washington our instruments, geological, botanical, and other specimens, illustrative of the country we had explored, and discharged all the party except my assistants I left for the purpose of repairing to the seat of Government and reporting to the Adjutant-General. All of which is very respectfully submitted. J. H. Smmpson, Captain Corps of Topographical Engineers, U. S. Army. To Col. J. J. ABERT, Chief Corps Topographical Engineers. meteor. I presume the magnetic needle which you observed was a short one, supported on a point, and se no action, except one of very unusual intensity, could be observed. The needles generally used for this purpose are those suspended by a single fiber of silk, and the deviations observed by the reflection of the divisions of a scale ies the axis of a telescope. Theoretically, wage the action of the aurora on the needle ought to be very uncertain, since if the aurora be an electric discharge to rth, no action on the needle could be anticipated when this discharge took place with equal intensity east and rae of the needle. If, however, the action was much more powerful to the west than to the east, a slight deviation in one direction or the other ought to be observed. “We are very anxious to obtain the result of your meteorological observations. They will not only be interest- ing in themselves when published as a part of your report, but particularly so to us, in studying the phenomena of the progress of atmospheric disturbances. You are almost in the very region of the great laboratory of American storms, and every ee you may record in regard to the weather may prove of special interest. “Very respectfully, yours, ; « JosEPH HENRY. “To Capt. J. H. Smuupson.” remark, in relation to the above letter, in respect to the importance of having a proper needle for the discovery of slight perturbations from terrestrial or other causes, that we with us a unifilar magnetometer, the same which Dr. Kane had on his last Arctic expedition, and which could be converted into a declinometer; but on account of the unseasonable and un on other occurrence of the phenomena referred to, and although we observed results from it which are given in my report, we did not make use of it on this. | EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIXES A, B, AND C. ITINERARIES OF WAGON-ROUTES. A PPh DD Dake es ITINERARY OF THE MORE NORTHERN OR OUTWARD WAGON-ROUTE FROM CAMP FLOYD, UTAH, TO GENOA, IN CARSON VALLEY. & | | fe/|7™ es weiss. Sa Ais2] 32 Localities. 8 | 3 $ | ss fa | a= : oe ee ad dow 8 ; eels (38/212 /3 Oo A) Be] Flo Meadow Creek, mail station ....-.-----.4 --- 220 eee ee eee ee nee ce eee ee eee eee Cc. }182 18.2 |G. W. . % General Johnston’s Pass, Guyot range, three-fourths of a mile below summit, on west side ; : Md . springs to right and left of road; bat — Nebea rh and probably not constant Cc. 9.9 28.1; W. Ww. G. — Simpson Springs ag gape : Water andant ; fill water-kegs for crossing the desert, a which ¢ TO. ..--+0 : Cc. | 16.2 44.3 | G.W Ww. G. Dovil 8 Hole : a poe uite brackish ; animals can only be watered Dy bucket. ci. oc ecw peas Reon se | 87.4 Fish mye oe mail station: Water brackish, but palatable when cool; grass EBD cicid vices Cc. 5.4 62.8 /G.W. | W. G. Warm 3.4] 96.2/G.W.| W. G. aeiphart Spring: bund and palatable; grass also abundant.......----.--. osesinwe C.- | 288) 125.5 ; Ral 4 } w. G. ing, Pleasant Valley Geabouk range, mail station Cc. | 13.4) 138.4 Ww. Ww. G. East side of. Antelop CG. 1125] 150.9] W. WwW. G. Spring Valley : Best. pine nm west bench of aoe Gras 69.91G.W.| W. G. Mouth of Spring broegeste : a Sere w. Ww. G. Spring Creek: 34 miles al this point 420 120 Ww. Ww. G. Summit of pass of U! Smee oan Tan ange 4.5 Shell Creek, east side oe a toe Valley, mail station > Cc. 211 18.0); W. Ww. G. Steptoe reek : vi mmer : 6.5 Mouth of Egan Canon, + ge = i G ide-hills ...... c: 6.8 | 194.3] W. W. é. West side of Butte ey: 'y scan ass 1} miles northeast from water-hole. It is r probable that since Danan saitipeos’ 8 explorations the mail station at this point has been : changed to another ar at better locality in vicinity C.-) 384 E38 4 We a, Ge: es > ring in ake untz ran Cc. | 12 204.4) W. WwW. G. Spring in Ruby Valley, mai station: Grass on weet sido of valley 2.22 5.¢.2..2. 22: ¢.55-2 5-5-2 2JcU 9.2| 233.6! G.W. ‘ & South Fork of "tambo ldt 14.4 Wie a Sm va mountain stream, west side of valley of South Fork of Humboldt; grass toward the seen Sees Cc. 3.3] $13) 6G. W. Ww & summit of Cho-kups Pass, 0: iad W e-ah-bah range 4.0 ope of We-ah-bah ra Cc. 3.0 | 258.3 Ss. W. G. Syeie it Pah- hun-nupe Valley 7.8 | 266.1 8. Ww G. oie s erie west side of Pah-hun-nupe Valley: Marsh grass; a better banch grass in cafion os. stacked fo spring Cc. ef 271.6} GO. W. |} W. G. — hibsiy 2 or Willow Cr Cook: * Ko-bah Valley : Some ten miles saved by taking a southwest di- from this camp, as indicated on map, to water; hd pe e of Pah-rea Mountain ..----. Cc. 0 | 236.5 Ss. Ww. G. ith Captain Simpson's return row ute: Take right h nee 16.5 | 303.0 win aoe: Sergeant Barr’s Springs, half mile west; little ; ti $ 305. 0 8S. Ww. G unction of routes en eee BB ee é r Antelope Creek : ‘Abundance of wood, water, and grass...-...----..-------- C. Sg tay: ee Ww. G. ror of road: Take left hand. OM Liigesse toaves bestows ck betes Saw-wid Creek: Water running one mile above; grass in cafion ; 24 By aes 8. 1 2 G. k: Water running al above road ; grass i in cafion : enon} ae + ame pire 8. WwW. G. Summit of Pah-rea rang AB e Sr cpiecblcis GP TAMAS soo aa ae wesc tw nen hn meee ee her en ee ree nen e re errens Heese ee aes hl coeceus rai Fork o: s: Take left hand.....-.- an © eee pias Month of Won-a-ho-no-pe Cafion -..----- Cc. Lit 264) OW: Ww. : —Simpson’s Park: Abundance of water and grass Cc. Lot Sot W. w. Summit of Pe-er-re-ah, or High Mountain range ‘ evades crops cepatsesiel seneu 0 | 69 ‘ ie Fork of erat Palen 1Oee Wars 250s oa vee ect as esas ee td nae ene in eween earners raaeee sb See es Shan ree ea 5 ee Reese’s River: Contains trout ; - fuel to be brought .....---------------- - +--+ 2+ ---- 2 eenee enone | eee cot Si £) cu We G. Forks of rainy Take right hand; (left hand 4 miles shorter, but ragged r the Se-day-e ; Mountain range. This me t best early in the’season for trains Pr west, pall A ways best for herds; water and grass a tervals of 24, 10, 3, 3, 3. 7, 8; total, 363 miles to junction with more | - ea hee hern Fas a we iva ee seamen cunereees eotee one ek pSficeais fakin, 38 yo 17 See ck ese ees Clee Seen ON Kirb Smith’s Creek, Woodruff Valley: Some along creek ; abundant within the cafion of vor acon era ne “ c. | a5/| am7|/aw.| w. | G Mouth of Kirby Smith’s Creok Cafion .‘......-----+s+: cee ce cete eke es fe ee 3.2; 39) Wt OW. & es Smith’s Creek .-.--..-----------+++-+--+--- Bg Sat eee ease Rae ee le = bag w. Ww. G. ummit of Pass ‘Sede: Eis Moti EAiG <5 coes as soo oscek - hogtesinen Mere ce ene eee eee a ae. er Seoard a eas . Sais oe tos a See WwW. G. ve Edward Creek, in “ee Valley. .<..-« A ee ek Se 9 8. Ww. G 154 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAT. Itinerary of more southern or return route from Genoa, &e.—Continued. 4 cristo euibe hea binimierenescsi oy 2 q Baie | é& malss| e¢ Localities. d S Sa 3 FI i ao | ES} 56 : 5 ai a mB a ia pac nO - 2213 S EI = at O14 a fe EF ls — t of pass of Un-go-we-ah or Perry range (some springs and grass about 14 miles east of mmit, to rig ht of road , in branch of Captain Little’s Cafion) Ay fe ea ee Near ar mouth of Little’s Cation: The left-hand road goes direct to Saad s Spring, and is the Mee tees he pai Antelope Valley : Grass and ced dant half C 6. 375. 1 5. Wat G Turnley’ s Spring ; MS eer W. Wat G Summit of pass of eee or Goshoot ra gE Ree eee Boh ogee eee oy Ne n-go-pah, or Red Springs: Union Peak Seouits Spsee ee C. ya 392.2; Wil Wat pa oe ‘inal, Nore Valle US Boerner G.W.| Wat. | G Crosma: wide, 1 deep ; grass and water abundan Cc 3. 407.0 | Wil Wat. G eae ot 8 Springs: ‘eral in | compass of half a mic conte of grass Cc 10. 417.2| GW. | Wat. Rush Pond: ve or no Aone hy w Tushe es Cc at: 498. 5 | oscae: Wit feces. Summit of eigen 12, Chapin’s Springs C. 2. 4 453. 1 Wi Wat. G Fash ; Springs: Grass os Tigted rater kegs should be filled here to cross desert. .....-----. siping Che 462.6 | W. Wat. | G. Summit of pass of Thomas’ r:; 17. ¢ 2a Beweds Good I indian Spring, McDowell Tonateian: A very small spring el water-trough fixed for the collection and preservation of the water; grass and wood abundant .....-...--.------.-..------ C. | 180) 503.6) Wr Wat. | G. Prince’s Creek, Champlin Mountains C. | 16.0 | 519, We Wat. G Porter Croak. Porter alley: Wood, water, and ¢ bundant ao): 52d. 1.1: We, Wat. | G ppt 8 Spring: Wood, water, and grass abund Je 5.5 | 528.6} W. Wat.:| G Junction with outward route, in General Jo ecko s Pass of the Guyot rang Jef Al, 34|> Dad Wee G ; Meadow Cree k Cc. | 10.0 549.9 | GW. |. Wat. G s Camp Floyd: G ad d Oquirr Mountains, 3 aaihen off. « c. 25 2 + 566 7... Wat. Norr.—The distances were measured by an odometer. C. stands for camp; W. for wood; G. W. for greasewood; 8. for sé sage (Artemesia); Wil. for willows; Wat. for water; G. for grass; and R. for rushes. In order to cross the desert, between Carson Lake and Cold Spring, and between Tyler’s Spring and Prince’s Creek, water-kegs should be provided for the persons of the party, and at least two grain-feeds for the draught-animals, one for each desert. ads ISCAS Ame, ITINERARY OF A WAGON-ROUTE FROM FORT BRIDGER TO CAMP FLOYD. 2 z 3 3 3 =e Localities. 23 ea : Tee eae er o 3S 3 r) = om i] & a & oS Fort Bridger i ; Ws. Wat. | G. Canon eck * Fork 6 W Wat. } G. Muddy Creek a 1 Ww. Wat. | G. Last water in ravine ..-... 5 18 5. Wat. | G. E ast Branch, Sul ane Creek 53 243 8. W. G. West B: ranch, Su phor Creek 34 28 WAR Sivas see + G. East 2 ranch, Bear River 54 334) W. Wat. | G. meg Main Branch of Bear River 3 364 | W. | Wat. |} G. amp ~—s bo Amc Cla; poe Rp ee eee re ee Pe ee 94 46 Ww. Wat. | G. Foot, at up : good ca localities down to mouth of White Clay Creek.-.......-..--..-.-+. 54 514 | Wil | Wat. | G. Junction o: White Clay. ¢ Creek with Weber River and old Parley’s Park road; turn oe the Weber ..-.. 193 70 Wa Wat. | G. camps up where you leave it to cross divide between it and Silver Creek ..... 12 eof W. | Wat. | G. Silver Creek: rs = ao 6 88 s. Wat. | G. Leave Silver Creek ...... 923 Ss. Wat. | G. First camp on Timpanogos Riv 6 98} WwW. Wat. | G. Good camps at intervals to paral et a of cafion 21 193} W. Wat | G. Beautiful iS xs 24 1215 | W. Wak. [iccons Tell-bridge over Timpano; moe itkecun ee 33 124} Month of Fariranoron (a0On: 22. 6 os cae Se a les easel ieee ce 1 1253 WwW. Wat. fics. Battle Creek (Pleasant G Grove) mba — ae brought; forage purchasable 6} a Lit WR lendcns American Fork (Lake City): Fuel shoul rought ; forage PUPCREANINGS curs cas Seco ees tebey: Mbt 2 UA benase 2st WW Oe i venke Lehi: Fuel should be brought; ioe pa ie chasable p BET Sas 8 on eee gah ee relate, ES sa bridge over Jordan: Fuel BHGWIG HG DIME RNG. os na eee ee on Cas Care ein eb ae Soe see ees s seas 23 G. Camp Floyd: Fuel and grass in the eles tg 4 msilen off t 14 SS hacia WR cee Norre.—The distances were measured by an odometer. W. stands for wood; S. for sage; Wat. for water; Wil. for willows; and G. for grass. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX D. —_—_—_— ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AND GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. APA DD Lob: _ ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AND GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE MOST IMPORTANT POINTS. The subjoined letters of Lieut. H. 8. Putman, Topographical Engineers, and of Mr. D. G. Major, with the Table of Geographical Positions, give all needful informa- tion in respect to this portion of the expedition. The sextant observations were chiefly made by my assistant, Lieut. J. L. K. Smith, Topographical Engineers; the transit observations by Lieut. H. 8. Putman, and those for lunar distance by both these offi- cers and myself, the altitude of the moon and star, as well as the angular distance, being taken at the same instant of time. ; The chief fact noticeable in the results is the disagreement between our longitudes and those of Colonel Frémont at Great Salt Lake City, the north bend of Walker's River, and at Genoa, the western termination of our routes, where our explorations have been either coincident or so closely approximate as to enable us to institute a comparison. : In Frémont’s second expedition (184344) he makes the longitude of the sum- mit of Frémont Island, in Great Salt Lake, west of Greenwich 112° 21’ 05”. Accord- ing to Stansbury’s rigid triangular survey of Great Salt Lake, Salt Lake City is east of this summit 25’ 39’. This makes the longitude of Salt Lake City, as derived from Frémont’s observations in second expedition, 111° 55’ 26". : In Frémont’s report of this expedition he remarks that “in this exploration, it became evident that the longitudes established during the campaign of 1842 were col- lectively thrown too far to the westward.” He therefore abandons his determinations of his first expeditions, and assumes as correct those of his second. In his third expedition (of 184546) he does not compare his longitudes with those of his previous expedi- tions; but, instituting a comparison myself, I find the result as follows: In this third expedition he makes one set of transit observations October 20, 1845, of the moon and moon-culminating stars, at the present site of Great Salt Lake City, and determines its longitude to be 112° 06’ 08”. That is, he makes the longitude of Salt Lake City in this expedition 10’ 42” greater than in his second; or, in other words, moves collec- tively his positions back again westwardly 10’ 42”. | . Now our observations of the transit of the moon and moon-culminating stars at Camp Floyd, consisting of five complete sets, made during two lunations, in the months of March and April, 1858, give a resulting longitude for this post of 112° _ om”. Chronometrically, I found Great Salt Lake City east of Camp Floyd, 13’ 07’. This ees ‘See Annual Report of ‘Surveyor-General of California, 1855, pp. 92-124, C 3 160 . EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. gives a resulting longitude for Great Salt Lake City, according to our observations, of 111° 55’ 00”, differing from Frémont’s, in his second expedition, only 26”, and from his determinations in his third expedition, 11’ 08”. This result, I think, is corrobora- tive of the accuracy of his longitude, as determined in his second expedition, and of | our own.* Again, Frémont makes the longitude of the most northern bend of Walker's River, in his third expedition, 119° 05’ 23”. We make the longitude of this same bend, by observations of east and west stars and lunar distarices, 118° 56’ 00”, differing from his 09’ 23”, but as our station appears to have been about 2’ farther west than his, the disagreement between us amounts to about 11’ 23’.+ Thus far it will be noticed our disagreements have been 11’ 08” at Salt Lake City, and 11’ 23” at the most northern bend of Walker; but from this point westward, within a measured distance, by odometer, of only 60 miles along our route, and a difference of longitude of only 46’ 50”, our longitudes become suddenly so variant, as at the Junction of the east and west branches of Carson River, at the base of the Sierra Nevada, to make us differ as much as 21’ 30’. Supposing, possibly, that I might have been in error, I have examined my map and notes critically upon this point, and feel confident that this suddenly enlarged discrepancy is not due to any errors we have committed. Besides, what makes me more disposed to think that the error does not lie with us is that Mr. George H. Goddard, the civil engineer who was intrusted by the State of California, in 1855, with the determination of the eastern boundary of that State, makes the longitude of Genoa 119° 48’ 25’,t or 7’ 55” greater than mine, while Frémont’s of this point, so far as it can be determined from its proximity to the junc- tion of the east and west forks of Carson River, laid down on his map of his expedi- tion of 1845-46, is 21’ 30” greater. I have been thus particular in giving the points of difference between Frémont’s longitudes and my own, from the circumstance that they have been hitherto regarded as correct, and succeeding explorers have referred their longitudes chronometrically to them as standards. Before dismissing this subject, I cannot but bring to the attention of the Bureau the great importance of sending into the field, and of officers intrusted with expeditions of securing, the very best chronometers and astronomical instruments which can be purchased. A hundred dollars or more on a chronometer or other field-instrument may insure results which may be reliable and permanent; whereas a false economy which would be content with anything less will frequently jeopard the results of the whole expedition, and cause the expenditure of thousands of dollars, as well as the opportu- nity of gaining correct geographical knowledge, to have been entirely nugatory. I would also state that the very best possible way we found of carrying our chronometers (four in number) was to place them in a soft-cushioned box prepared for the purpose, and to strap the box on the middle seat of an easy ambulance or spring- . ‘wagon. Our box-chronometer we allowed to play freely in the gimbals, only placing *My latitude of G ti eT et City Ale. £, be rs) 10” : from Stansbury’s, 3 _ t Our latitude of this bend agrees within 26”. +Mr a3 aq ey . a 7 “ay Wit ri eng ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AND GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS, 161 on the face of the chronometer a sufficient quantity of curled hair to restrict its oscil- lations within proper limits within the box and prevent its turning over. I would here remark that according to my experience good chronometers ean, with care, as above directed, be carried in our field-expeditions and very fair results be obtained from them, the precaution, however, being taken to determine the longi- tude absolutely at proper intervals,* as tests and checks of the work. : The astronomical observations which we took for time, or longitude and latitude, are so numerous as to make it inexpedient to incumber the report with them, but as they have been filed in the Bureau of Topographical Engineers, they are available for reference. I think it proper, however, to present below some of the forms we used for the: entering of astronomical data; as they may be of service to future explorers. As every hint of practical value is of use to explorers in the field I would suggest that in taking the altitudes of the sun with the sextant, I have found that to set the instrument, say every 20’ of arc, and wait for the contact or separation of the images, * T notice that Lieutenant Warren, in his memoir of explorations (Pacific Railroad Reports, vol. xi, 399), in compar- ing my longitudes on my exploration to the Navajo country from Santa Fé, in 1849, with those of Captain Whipple, of 1853 prefers those of Captain Whipple, for the reason that mine, as I stated in my report, were chronometric, and based upon the longitude of Santa Fé (106° 2’ 30’), as determined by Major Emory. This is all very well, for the reason that Cap- tain Whipple determined his longitudes absolutely ; but when the difference between us, 13’, is said “ to be not greater than is liable to the method employed, viz, chronometric differences by chronometers transported over rough and mountainous country,” he does me, doubtless unintentionally, an act of injustice ; assigns an erroneous reason for the difference, and, according to my experience, makes the errors, liable from the cause assigned, very much greater than there is any necessity for. The truth is, the difference between Captain Whipple and myself arose not from the chro- nometers having been transported over a rough country, but because Major Emory had placed the longitude of Santa Fé too far to the westward; and hence, as mine were based on his, they were carried correspondingly 13’ too far to the westward, as was determined by Captain Whipple. ; All this is corroborated by the fact that Capt. J. N. Macomb, topographical engineers, as his letter will show, by an observation of an occultation of the star B. A. C., 4984, August 5, 1859, has determined the longitude of Santa Fé to be 105° 47/ 14.25 west from Greenwich ; or 15’ 15.75 to the eastward of that given by Emory. WASHINGTON, D. C., October 22, 1860. Dear Sm: At your request I give you the result of my observations for longitude upon my recent exploration west of the Rio Bravo del Norte. At my camp upon the Rio Florido (a tributary of Rio Las Animas, which empties into the San Juan), [observed an ocenltation of B. A. C. 4984, on August 5, 1859, from which the longitude of 107° 46’ 30” was obtained, and from this I deduced the longitude of Santa Fé by the use of a sidereal chronometer. My result for Santa Fé is 105° 47’ 147.25. ‘ I remain, very respectfully, yours, &e., J. Ne Macoms, Captain Topographical Engineers, in Charge of San Juan Expedition, §-c. Capt. J. H. Smrpson, : Topographical Engineers, U.S. A., in Charge of Explorations in Utah, §c. I would also state that Lieutenant Warren has fallen into an error in respect to the real difference between my longitude of Fort Defiance and Captain Whipple’s. He makes the difference 16', whereas the real difference is 13! 30” ; thus: My longitude of Camp No. 21, west mouth of Canoncito Bonito, as laid down in Appendix E of my report of Navajo expedition.-.-.--.------- 109° 15! 30” Fort Defiance, east of this locality -----.-----------+--++++++++>- 3. 00! Longitude of Fort Defiance, according to my observations. ..--- -- 109° 12’ 30” Captain Whipple, longitude Fort Defiance, according to Lieutenant Warren soee teen tenons 108° 59 00” True difference .-.--.---------- 13° 30” Besides, in his table of comparative longitudes (doubtless a clerical error), he has entered Whipple’s longitude of Ojos del Peseado, as 108° 14’ 18”. This makes a difference between my longi longitude of Inscription Rock has been placed down incorrect tude of the latter is 108° 27’ 54”, or differing from mine 13’ 51’. 21 162 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. has the advantage of securing uniformity of result, an avoidance of error in the hasty reading of the instrument and record of the angles, and a general satisfaction in the observations. Of course in’the case of only occasional glimpses of the sun on account of intervening clouds this mode should not be practiced. Lieutenant Putman submits results of observations for latitude and longitude. Wasuineton, D. C., March 1, 1860. Sir: The subjoined table gives the geographical positions for the most important points on the new routes between Fort Bridger and Genoa, Utah. It will be observed that the longitude of Camp Floyd, and consequently chrono- metrically, that of Great Salt Lake City, has been decreased about 11’ from that given by Colonel Frémont. This change, however, has been made only when a careful series of observations on the moon and moon-culminating stars warranted the alteration. These observations, consisting of five complete sets, were made during two lunations (in the months of March and April, 1859), and a mean of all the results, which did not differ essentially, was taken as the true longitude. The longitude of Genoa is determined from a single set of observations of the same kind as the foregoing; the age of the moon and other circumstances, made it impossible to take as full a series as was desirable. Between Camp Floyd and Genoa other observations on the moon and moon-culminating stars, and of lunar distance were made for absolute determinations of longitude. Equal altitudes of the sun, or double altitudes of “east and west stars,” were taken at intervals which, with the known error and rate of the chronometer, affords the means for arriving at the longitude of intermediate points. Latitude has been computed from double altitudes of the sun or Polaris at nearly every camp on the route. | The computations for latitude and time have been made by myself, assisted by Lieut. C. H. Collins, Topographical Engineers, and Mr. J. R. P. Mechlin; each com- putation being made by two persons to guard against mistakes. The longitudes by the moon and moon-culminating stars, and by lunar distances, have been computed by Mr. D. G. Major of Washington. The instruments employed in the field were: Ist. A portable transit, made by Wiirdemann; focal length, two feet. After reach- ing Camp Floyd, the spider-lines of the reticle were found broken; they were replaced ‘by such substitutes as could be obtained there, and it is believed the results are worthy of full confidence. 2d. One box, mean solar, chronometer by Parkinson and Frodsham, London, No, 1821, and two pocket chronometers, one, No. 221, by Frodsham, and one No. 8189, by A. P. Walsh, London. Of these, No. 1821 was used in most cases, and a proof of its reliability is to be found in the correspondence between the longitude as given by it, and _ that determined absolutely. | __ For instance, at the North Bend of Walker’s River, the chronometer gives longi- _ tude 118° 56’ 08’’ west from Greenwich, and an observation on the moon, Alpha Vir- ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AND GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. 163 ginis, and Alpha Leonis, gives 118° 56’ 00’. Again at Clay Creek, the chronometer gives 116° 09’ 13”, while by lunar distances it is 116° 05’ 45”, a difference not great when it is remembered that the chronometer has been transported over 800 miles, and most of the way through a rough country, where there was no road. 3d. Two sextants made by Gamby (Paris), and one by Wiirdemann. All of these were used, simultaneously, by as many observers, in taking an observation for longi- tude by lunar distances. The one marked “No. 1,” was used by Lieutenant Smith, in all the observations made for time and latitude, and the results obtained from it were very satisfactory. In some cases a set of six pairs of equal altitudes of the sun would be taken, and on computing each pair separately, the greatest difference between any two errors, thus found, would seldom exceed a small fraction of a second; a proof of the extreme nicety of the observation. I am, captain, very respectfully, your obedient servant, H. 8S. Purmay, Lieutenant Topographical Engineers. Capt. J. H. Suvpson, Corps Topographical Engineers. Mr. Major submits results of calculations for longitude. Wasuinaton, D. C., February 6, 1860. Dear Sir: I have the honor herewith to inclose the essential calculations, and final results of the series of astronomical observations for longitude. The transit work requires no explanation; the usual method of discussion having been adopted, so far as the data afforded. , The lunar distances have been computed by the improved method of Chauvenet, Astronomical Journal, vol. 2, also American Ephemeris, vol. 1. The places of the moon and stars, also other data, are taken from the American Ephemeris, with but one or two instances from the British Nautical Almanac. — I have to express regret that this work has been delayed, owing to an accident, by which the former calculations were destroyed. The inclosed results differ (in most cases very slightly), from those previously deduced on account of using these last as close approximations in the reductions. Yours very truly, D. G. Masor. Captain Simpson, Topographical Engineers, U.S. A. * cs : Longitude Place. No. of “tteciow lati; | west from seen Lp Greenwich. fo} / “4 d ° ’ uv sn ay 40 J (c) 112 08 07 k Sak: ee ee Re os a son's Bot ( 112 47 18 In the Dese ‘ tte niessskeae ss Wr Ta toe Deaeri ieaighar Ageing a0 36 | iis ii. Pleasant: Valley 4 Spey eee Se arte telope Vall ee ye ers or ore Spring pba eee ee 46S focesreseeteees +> Bean Cat = ““(e) 114. 58 15 Gta. Valley... ccc. Oe Geo tiapetege we ene cau omenaeton Spring, east slope of Ruby Valley 0 St Sonth = Humboldt River I | Rae MR aN es ere Pah-hun-nupe Valle d 115 56 52 She.u-wi-te Creek Dee SEU CGa Sr ary Pocee hia pe Peub cep ubewtbeoEces Pie IO ts GO ee OE hires ie oe ease BRIM MEME Fs carcber yen lat tt elb = csc s5c ceoce rio bo cate bess oN ca ieee Ses ee ep a ee a eS Clarke Creek - 116 39 12 DONNIE G FARR COR sis a fe ad os ccs acs sd | ee eee 116 49 00 Pic Ee SNe cs ota wees ened Sys are oacues asin twas ess Se es ee ae ag Ge Op bh ots Reale Rota boas ene eeT cempnes Peete eke beaut hyd Cay sce ccc bo Soe iceks Si ce es gd OO NOR bs ee, Pu nam Creek SIT 27-34 Gibralter Cafion See BL POOR a pon remcca ss vows ap Cbg esbed ec we soe et see ep es a eee ee be ae be 90 19 06 | ; Lake... : 118 30 01 Walker's Rive 3 (d) 118 49 00 oo: ree a Watker's River (d) 118 56 00 Genes, ; | (e)119 40 30 164 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Table showing the geographical positions of the most important places ne Camp Floyd and Genoa, Utah, on Capt. J. H. Simpson’s outward r Zable shewing the geographical ee of the most important 7 between Genoa and Fort Bridger, on Capt. J. H. Simpson’s return route. ~ Longitude Place. — of — _ west trom a near reenwich. oO / “ oO i ” Carson River 4 Oot eee SS Carson Lake 5 Me a awe as Cold Creek yr: De Ren Se eae: Edward Cree 8 5 1t7: 31-42 Near ‘exntt oe Se-day-e Mountain, (west side) 1S a ee A Roe ance wh ie 3 Creek 15 t (d) 116 05 45 McCarthy Creek $0 Se Oe ee Blatff Creek... by ene aes a cae ty Sr ee ee Summit Spring 18 } 115 12 14 ee Cone Cafion 19 2S Se ee rs ee Spel in ax —— Vaitey .. 20 ) se Ss eerie” g flee : ee 22 ) 114 26 652 wi od Sp Spring : . ss Hd Sis EN 5 ES o Cae Ra a eR eA Crosman Spring We 08 4b ec ympton 26 ot ris Pan erate Gates 6 Rush Pond... .. Q7 4 113 31 «54 Chapin Spring 28 ee ee ee Tyler Spring 29 Ee) ais Poe an ome eae — nd India Spring Sevvcce 3L { 1k 56 36 33 ee. iswuewetwetkwe cus Nea eerie 34 Bre Peers paeie Meadow Creek 35 BR A Be a Torbert Creek, irie ... 4 ¢ 111 2 56 Ti os River, (Bend of) 4 111 26 03 Wy Oboe FeV Oe, (CRWMURED sig oo nino aoe Sa See Sens neds abe aces a 4 a lll 24 49 Near summit of Uintah Mountains, (side reconnaissance) . 4 Me ce ee a ndg te of Soa Fork, (side reconnaissance) 4 : 110 20 33 Fort 4 ‘ 110 23 47 Norr.—The camps on the return route are numbered oat | Genoa that place being No. 38 of the outward or No. 1 of the return route. , the caunp at Longitudes marked ¢ have been computed from observed lunar culminations; those d from lunar distances. All others are chronometric. = The longitude of Great Salt Lake City, chronometrically referred to the meridian of be ap oo is 111° 55’ 00”. The latitude is 40° 46’ 03” north. ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AND GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. 165 {Form wu -] Comparison of chronometers, Camp Floyd, Utah, Tuesday, March 1, 1859. Box chronometer | Pocket chronometer No. 1821, No. 221. Difference. h. &. h. ™. B h. m. 8. 9 29 45 9 30 20 00 00 35 9 30 15 9 30 50 00 00 35 9 30 appa «ae 00 00 35 : Pocket chronometer No. 8189. ‘. See 44 00 04 06 9.235 9> (36. 540 00 404 «(06 4 3° 00 Pocket chronometer No. 8212. Eee > eam 2 | | ee < poe) 00 00 09 test. ieeaee t 9 34 2 00 4600s : Sie. Sate 2 9 34 £40 00 46000Cti«OY . : [Form used Comparison of chronometers and daily rates. oe a PI Chronometer, | Chronometer + fast or — : = | Reading of . ’ 1 | +. fast or — - No. of . os : fast (+)orslow | fast(+) or slow slow of Date. Camp. Station. SB we: Difference. (-) of mean| (—) it sidereal a mean) sidereal oe 3 time. time. . , G 1259. Asm. 2.. [hem 8. Ae Ce ke eee ee Cork Mar. tia: Camp Floyd, Utah Territory .| 1821 | 9 30 15 |.-...-....... — 0 OL 20.14) — 10 37 39.17 1 do 221; 9 30 00 00 35; — 0 - ~ 1 do 1s2i| 9 32 1 do 8189} 9 36 10/00 04 06/ +0 O02 45.86) — 10 33 33,17 1 do 1821| 9 34 11 do 8212 | 9 34 20; 00 00 09 — 0 OL 1114 WY toot se do 1821 99 08 fica 23-0 00 35 52 10 00 < e| Seed 02 15 52 40 00 3 19 49 03 48 53 10 00 ss: 33 05 28 53 40 00 S 1: 3 . 07 08 54 10 00 3 14 #56 08 43 54 40 00 3 13 20 - Index error. Difference.| Mean. — Atmosphere. t fi i “a ’ n” ti cid , ODEL so =s Op AC 2. a5 34 A. M. eae ona 30 10 | — 4 30 Bar. 95, 423. Aft, obs ....| On arc....-- 34 50 Alt. ther. 56° earioee Off arc......| 30 00 — 4 30 Det. ther. 30°. 5 Ce Bree crema oe ee apne -. be... Alas 95, 320. ‘Ket “hae crocs] TA thor, 6ige. Sh gaan Sum =o 0 +-¢ 20 veseeeeee:| Det ther. 47°. 166 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. [Form used.] Astronomical observations with transit—Camp Floyd, Utah Territory. Reading of level. | a Oo Times of transit over the wires. Za Date. | Name of object. = | X end east. | X end west.| Observer. [=I 4 2 I I mI. IV. Vv VI vit a E. | w.| E. | w. 1859. ache mm. 8. 2 ™m™ 8 m & Mar. 13 | Sirius A APE ORS IL 6 7 12 17.8 12 39:13 02 LS Bp Set Senos 590 | 550] 590] 550 Mar. 13 | Delta geminorum Pee? eee cous 7 4 45 45 46.5 590 550 590 | 550 Mar. 13| Moon's W. limb ...-| 54 17 | 54 41.5|55 06.517 55 31 55. 5a} 56 19 Cee «Se Cie 590 550 590 550 Mar.13| Beta geminorum...| 8 44 9 06 9 <3Sl 8 9 56 10 18|10 43 bie te ee 590 550 590 550 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX E. BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AND COMPUTATION OF ALTITUDE THEREFROM, BY HENRY ENGELMANN : GEOLOGIST AND METEOROLOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION, Aye TIN 19-8 ae REPORT ON THE BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AND ON THE COMPUTATION OF 'THE ALTITUDES THEREFROM, BY HENRY ENGELMANN, GEOLOGIST AND METEOROLOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION. ; Wasurneton, D. C., December 5, 1860. Str: I herewith submit to you my report on the barometrical and meteorological observations taken during the explorations under your command in Kansas, Nebraska, and Utah Territories, 1858 and 1859; and on the computation of the altitudes from the same, upon which the profiles are based, of the routes traveled by parties under your command between Fort Bridger, Utah, and the Sierra Nevada. The observations cover a large area, and besides their value for the computation of altitudes, of which only those points west of Fort Bridger have been calculated, they afford an insight into the climatical conditions of the most elevated central portion of the North American continent. By their large number I have been enabled to deduce most striking results in regard to the fluctuations of the temperature and of the moisture of the atmosphere in the so-called Great Basin of Utah, which has an extremely continental climate, the like of which is only known to exist in the center of the vast continent of Asia, and also of several points in the plains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the climate of which, although not quite as arid as that of the Basin, still differs very materially from that of the intermediate valley of the Mississippi River and of the Eastern States, and presents insurmountable obstacles to the successful occupa- tion of by far the largest portion of that region by any other than a nomadic popula- tion, the main interest of which cannot be agriculture. From the records of the obser- vations given in full, much more interesting facts may be derived by their comparison with contemporaneous observations at other points, but ‘my time has been too much limited to follow up the subject farther than I have done. T avail myself of this opportunity to acknowledge the valuable assistance rendered me during the prosecution of the surveys, by Capt. J. W. Phelps, Fourth Artillery, U. S. A., (now resigned,) at Camp Floyd, and by Messrs. Edward Jagiello and William Lee, who assisted me along the route. For the communication of some of the mete- orological records, which I have made use of in the computations, I am indebted to the Medical Department of the Army. I am also under obligation to Prof. A. D. Bache, Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey, for some observations at San Fran- cisco, Cal., and for liberal access to the library of the Smithsonian Institution, and 22 Bo 170 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. other facilities offered to me by the distinguished Secretary of the Institution, Prof. Joseph Henry. I an, sir, your obedient servant, | Henry ENGELMANN. Capt. J. H. Srvpson, Topographical Engineers, U.S. A., In charge of Exploring Expedition. INSTRUMENTS. On starting from Fort Leavenworth, we were provided with three cistern barom- eters, Nos. 1062, 1237, and 1279, made by James Green, of New York, with scales graduated down to 20 inches, and with verniers reading to thousandths of an inch. These instruments, as improved now by Mr. Green, were again found to be admirably adapted to the wants of exploring expeditions, when they are transported over many hundreds of miles of rough mountain roads, and exposed to all accidents contingent to their daily use on the road and in camp. One of their principal advantages is the readiness with which they may be repaired in the field whén damaged by long use or broken by accidents, which will happen to the most careful observer. Against such - emergencies we were provided with several glass tubes, pure mercury, and other requisites. A portable tripod was furnished by Mr. Green with the instruments, and found very useful, indeed, indispensable. The immovable support which it gives can often not be obtained otherwise in the freld, and adds to the correctness of the observa- tions and to the preservation of the instruments. We were also provided with aneroid barometers, which, however, were not used, as no reliable results could be expected from them at the elevation and in the climate where we might have needed them most. Besides these, we had a number of ther- mometers and a rain-gauge. OBSERVATIONS. Regular observations of the barometer, dry and wet bulb thermometers, cloudi- ness of the sky, direction and force of the wind, quantity of rain, &c., were kept up from the time of the arrival of the party at Fort Leavenworth, Kédns., in May, 1858, to our return there in October, 1859. As it was desirable to obtain observa- tions for as long a period as possible at each successive camp, and from the warmest to the coldest time of the day, the first observation was made soon after reaching a- camp, and the last one shortly before leaving it again, conforming, as much as possible, to the hours of 6 a. m., 9 a.m., 12m, 3 p.m. 6 p. m., and 9 p. m., which were fixed upon as the regular hours for observations when in camp. In the mountain regions, during the explorations between Camp Floyd, Utah, and Fort Bridger, Utah, and between Canfp Floyd and Carson Valley, Utah, numerous observations were made on the road, with a view to the construction of the profile. Besides, a very large number of hourly, observations were most carefully made at every point where a protracted stay offered an opportunity, in order to obtain data for the determination of the daily variation of the atmospheric pressure, the temperature, the elastic force and weight of vapor, and the relative humidity of the different dis- s BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 171 REDUCTION OF THE OBSERVATIONS. The first step, in preparing the records for discussion-and computation, is the reduction of the observed readings of the barometer to what which they would have been had the temperature of the mercury been uniformly 32° Fahrenheit; for which pur- pose I made use of the tables of Prof. A. Guyot, of Princeton, published by the Smith- sonian Institution. : INSTRUMENTAL ERRORS. Next, the correction for instrumental error was applied. Before the barometers left the hands of the maker their scales were adjusted, so that they read precisely with the Smithsonian standard. Their comparative reading and the change which they had under- gone was then tested by a long series of observations, made at Fort Leavenworth, under the direction of Capt. J. W. Abert, Topographical Engineers, which were repeated at Fort Kearney by myself, and afterward in every stationary camp, and as often as it appeared desirable. On the march we generally made use of only one barometer, to keep the others perfect for future service and comparison. It will be sufficient here to give the errors as they were found at different times, - without giving all the details regarding the determination and origin of their changes. Table of zero-errors of the barometers. Barometers. Date. » 1062 1279 1237 Found during May, 1858, (in inches English) : — 0.002 + 0.002 — 0.002 End of June, 12858, (from most reliable observers) ). 000 0. 000 — 0.004 End of July, 1858 ). 000 0. 000 — 0.005 After August 20, [858, (1062 had been cleaned) — 0.014 0. 000 — 0.005 After September 2, 1853 ... — 0.014 — 0.005 — 0.005 After September 16, 1858 — 0, 020 — 0. 008 — 0.005 In January, 1859. (A new tube had been inserted in 1062) — 0.042 (*) — 0.006 In January, 1859, (1279 hand been refitted) — 0.042 (*) + 0.005 In April, i859 — 0.042 @) . 000 From June 1 to 21, 1859 - ie . 000 After June 21. (A new tube had been inserted in 1279) .....-. (*) . O15 From August 28, 1859, to end =D, O08. A acer eences « Kept at Fort Bridger. I wish to call the attention of observers who might meet with similar circum- stances to the fact that, in determining these zero errors, I found a very valuable check in Part C, Table XX VII, of the second edition of the above-named Smithsonian Tables, which gives the depression of the mercurial column due to capillary action, with the internal diameter of the tube, and the height of the meniscus as arguments, reduced to English measure from a table of Deleros. The use of it may be seen from the following example : In January, 1859, at Camp Floyd, I had to replace the original tube of barometer No. 1062, which had been broken, by a new one. The inner diam- eter of the latter was 0.16 inch, while that of the former had beeh 0.20 inch. Hav- ing performed the operation with all possible care, I waited some days, in order to give the instrument time to obtain its normal conditions. I then compared it with the other, and found its zero-error equal to 0.042 inch. The meniscus of No. 1062 was now 0.024 inch high, which corresponds, according to the table, to a depression of 0.064 inch. To correct for the capillary attraction of the old and wider tube, the maker 172 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. had shortened the scale 0.028 inch, as indicated by a mark on the brass tube. The apparent error, after the insertion of the new tube, ought, therefore, to have been 0.064 minus 0.028, equal to 0.036 inch. That the direct comparison gave it a little larger, 0.042, may be accounted for by my inability to measure the inner diameter of the tube to a fraction, as the beautifully clear sound of the instrument (produced when the mercury struck the closed end of the tube) indicated that the vacuum was perfect. The result certainly was very satisfactory. It proved that the zero-errors of the instruments had been re¢orded correctly, or very nearly so. I might, then, have shortened the scale, as the maker would have done in a similar case, being satisfied that this zero-error was not the consequence of a fault of the instrument, but of the increased capillary depression in the narrower tube. I preferred, however, to leave the scale unchanged. In one case an noeidont happened to the two instruments, which, at the time, were the only ones in my possession. Some of the mules got entangled in the cords of the tent, and, pulling it down, threw the tripod, with both barometers, to the ground. Air entered the vacuum of No. 1062, and rendered it temporarily snabedeeablo, A bubble of air also entered the tube of No. 1279, but left it again on turning the instru- ment, which, from all appearances, had not suffered any permanent damage. The sound of the tube seemed to indicate that the vacuum was still perfect. After the tube of No. 1062 had been refilled, with all possible precaution, I found the result of calculation closely corresponding with the result of the direct comparison of the instruments, and in this way I was again re-assured that No. 1279 had not suffered from the accident, an assurance which I could not well have arrived at in any other way. These examples show how useful it is to keep account of the width of the tubes, the height of the meniscus, the clearness of the sound, and other observations in regard to the condition of the instruments. The thermometers—the attached as well as the detached ones—also did not per- fectly agree with each other. I therefore tested their graduation by direct experiments, from which I calculated a table of corrections. The readings of the thermometer, as found in the records, were thus corrected whenever it was found necessary. METHOD OF COMPUTATION. I could scarcely hesitate in the selection of the method for computing the altitudes, since the one developed according to the requirements of the case during the compu- tation of the profiles of the Pacific Railroad surveys, and discussed by Lieut. Henry L. Abbot, Topographical Engineers, in Vol. VI of the Reports (to which I refer for particulars), gives results which may be regarded as absolutely correct, as demon- strated by Lieutenant Abbot, if suitable corrections can be obtained; and under less favorable cireumstances, the results are at least more generally reliable than those obtained in any other way. By the introduction of the corrections for horary and _ abnormal oscillations of the barometric column, if such can be obtained from points of similar climatical features, not too far distant, nor differing too much in altitude ‘from the point the altitude of which is to be determined, all causes of error are elim- _ inated the more the nearer these conditions are fulfilled, including the effects of the Plate A Sd. in ISSO. - . Eaplorations of Capt. JH. Simpson, LL . of the Horary Os cillations Barometric Column : mw MT iN TT AN il i ia ii an FS iin ul a & = if i. ih | = na ee ca Ma nn a Hi "il val Ea eeu ae i fetefanany Hetannbancpops afta we ye | i i ni ea He ith SHEE | Ht Bi uting ut i Il sol ite Leite Ut Ts IN BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 173 aqueous vapor in the atmosphere upon its pressure, which we cannot bring into calcu- lation in any other way with a reasonable hope of success. This constitutes one of the most prominent advantages of the new method. Those formule in which the atmospheric moisture appears as a separate element are open to a great many objec- tions, and in their application we meet with obstacles which we are not now prepared to overcome. The most prominent among them is our want of accurate knowledge of the laws of the distribution and transmission of moisture through the atmosphere, and the great variability of its amount in different strata of the air, depending partly on altogether local influences, which may not extend beyond the lowest strata of the atmosphere. Only under particularly favorable circumstances these formule can be expected exceptionally to give very favorable results. The new method required the use of a mean reading of the barometer and ther- mometer at the fixed station, and the corrections which are applied give an approxima- tion to the mean reading of the barometer at the station the altitude of which is to be determined. If this mean was really obtained, then the mean temperature of the place would give the correct result; but as the corrections fail to be perfect, the intro- duction of the mean temperature of the respective day or days seems generally to give the best results. CORRECTIONS FOR THE HORARY OSCILLATIONS OF THE MERCURIAL COLUMN. The horary oscillations differ according to the latitude, climate, and altitude of the stations, and the seasons of the year. Their values for the regions traversed by us were not known. I determined them, therefore, for as many points as it could be done. Hourly observations were made for the purpose, mostly during 16 hours of each day, and kept up for several days or weeks. From these the variations were deduced, with the aid of diagrams and interpolations, as described by Lieutenant Ab- bot. The following table exhibits the results obtained, which are also graphically illustrated by the curves on Plate A, on an enlarged scale. The full black lines in those diagrams connect the computed ne means, while the dotted ‘lines, like the values put in brackets in the following table, are not actually determined by observations: A.— Corrections for the horary oscillation of the barometric pressure. [In inches (English) of th iat el ] Hours. t ai: Ill Bi 5 ge Va. VI. Vil. VIIL. IX. bs § G. Me... 2. sen ne---- veeees —. 008 —. 007] | [—.018] | [—.000] | [—.000] | [—.004] | [—.023] |.-..-..... f—. 014] |...--.-.-.) [—. 018] r “ ae eee = 018 eZ 0238 ame? —-, 006 —. 015 —. 035 Ee een cen eS 027 ee oe eee —.018 | —.026 —. 033 —.020 | —.015 —. 026 — 082. | 24,000 | [= O26} | 08 —. 033 a, m —.022 | —.0299 | —.034 | —.026 | —.022 | —.031 | —.045 | —.030 | [—.030] |.-.--.....| —. 036 a.m re eee —. 029 —. 031 —. 025 —. 026 -—. 032 —. 044 —. 035 —. 028 —. 024 —. 033 10 a. m | —. 018 —. 028 —. 024 —. O18 —. 026 —-. 028 —. 036 — eee.) fOr] fe ee 1 m +. — 013 —. 025 —. 014 —. 010 --. 019 —. O19 —, 022 —, O21 {[—- O19] |.--.-..--. —, 016 12 2 015 | —. 0083 : —.003,| —.007 | —.008 | +.001 | —.008 | +.007 on | 4.004 | 004 +.009 | +.ul18 +. 002 +. 007 +.006 | +.017 | [+.007] fe +. O10 ; 4.015 | +.007 | +.022 | 4.027 | 4.013 | 4.018 | +.018 | 4.028 | [+.02!] |......---. +. 019 ) +, 021 4.019 | +.033 | +.030 | +.024 | +.029 | +. 028 +. 032 03 4. 030 +. 026 4p. +. 025 +. 028 +. 043 +. O31 +. 025 +. 035 +. 036 oe +-. 025 . 037 +. 039 +. 010 . 024 +.033 | +. 046 +. 020 +. 0 +. 015 +. 032 >. m .| +.018 +. 034 +. 620 +. 005 +. 018 +, 020 +. 038 4.015 | [4.028] }-..-------) +. 080 >, m +.010 | -+.020 +. 007 +. 001 +. 605 +. 006 +. 027 + +, O13] |..---. ---| +023 9 p.m +, 003 +. 003 —. 003 | — 002 C03 —. 005. +.014 +. 003 . 006. 003: +. 012 1 >. m . 003 | | . 008 * 6.30 a. m. 174 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. No. I was deduced from 23 days’ hourly observations taken at Fort Leaven- worth, Kans., from May 38 to 26, 1858, at an elevation of near 900 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature during that time was 59° Fahrenheit, the weather rainy and stormy. The hourly variations were often obliterated by the ab- normal changes, and the amplitude of the diagram is, therefore, comparatively small; it corresponds very nearly with that for the same month at Philadelpbia. No. II was deduced from observations taken at Fort Kearney, Nebr., from June 19 to July 1, 1858, at an elevation of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature was 77°.5, the weather mostly fine, with the exception of some rains and high winds. Great abnormal variations took place during this interval, but I found that they did not change much the mean result. Therefore I eliminated only ' one very irregular day, and calculated the table from the remaining 11 days, after cor- recting a few obvious irregularities. The values thus obtained are very satisfactory. No. III was deduced from 4 days’ observations taken at Fort Laramie, Nebr., from July 30 to August 1, 1858, at an elevation of about 4,470 feet above the level of the sea, and with a mean temperature of 67°. The weather was rather favorable. The diagram has a marked sweeping shape. No. IV was deduced from observations taken at Fort Bridger, Utah, from Sep- tember 28 to October 7, 1858, at an elevation of 6,656 feet above the level of the sea. The weather turned out so stormy, and the padaGoiis so irregular, that I had to reject all observations made after the first 2 days, which have a mean temperature of 57°. No. V was deduced from observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, at an eleva- tion of 4,860 feet above the level of the sea, from April 4 to 23, 1859. The mean air temperature was 42°, and the weather mostly cloudy, stormy, and rainy. The ampli- tude is, therefore, rather small. No. Va. A more graceful diagram and of larger amplitude was obtained from only the first 3 days of No. V, fia April 5 to 8, 1859, with a mean temperature of 41° and fine weather. No. VI was deduced from 3 days’ observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from August 6 to 9, 1859. The mean temperature was about 70°, and the weather clear and favorable, with the exception of some high winds. No. VII was deduced from 10 days’ hourly observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from October 30 to November 9, 1858. The mean temperature was about 35°, the weather fine, and no great abnormal variations took place. These results are, therefore, of superior value. The diagram shows a bold, sweeping shape. — No. VII was deduced from 22 days’ tri-hourly observations at Camp Floyd, _ Utah, taken by Capt. J. W. Phelps, Fourth Artillery, from September 22 to October 13, 1858. _The mean temperature was 57°, the weather partly stormy. The values for the intermediate hours were found by plotting the calculated ones, and combining them by a curve, which seemed best to correspond to the other diagrams. * No. IX was deduced from tri-hourly observations taken at Cun Floyd, Utah, from November 3 to 29, 1858. The mean temperature was 35°, the weather mostly ealm and clear, but some great abnormal variations took — and some snow fell. = =_ ae is, therefore, smaller than in No. VII. BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 175 No. X was deduced from observations at Genoa, Carson Valley, Utah, at an elevation of 4,824 feet above the level of the sea, taken from June 12 to June 23, 1859. The mean temperature was 76°.3, and the weather fine; but the condition of the atmospheric pressure was not as uniformly regular as might have been desired. The diagram has, therefore, a less marked shape and amplitude than one might expect, but it must be remembered that the situation of Genoa is a peculiar one, on the margin of the arid interior, not far from extensive deserts, but also close to the foot of the Sierra Nevada, with its snow-clad summits, its abundance of water, and luxuriant vege- tation. I also tried to obtain the barometric variations in Woodruff Valley, one of the desert valleys of the interior of the Basin, at an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, at the end of May, 1859. The mean temperature there was then 53° Fahrenheit. But as a barometric storm occurred in these days, I did not obtain satisfac- tory results. I can only state that the barometer seems to oscillate very little between sunrise and noon, that then it sinks for some hours and begins to rise again rather abruptly toward sunset. The peculiarity of this change is due to the influence of the aqueous vapor, or rather to the extraordinarily small amount of aqueous vapor in that region, as will appear from the discussion of that subject below, while we might expect a large amplitude on account of the large daily oscillation of the temperature. These tables of oscillations were made use of for correcting the observations, either directly or by combining them so as to answer the purpose more satisfactorily. Most of the camping-places along our routes in- Utah did not require very large corrections, partly on account of their high altitudes, which mostly varied between 5,500 and 7,000 feet above the level of the sea, partly on account of the reason stated above. The largest corrections were needed in the neighborhood of Carson Lake, and at some other low points with high temperatures; but in no instance were the oscillations found nearly as large as those observed by Lieutenant Abbot at a much lower elevation with higher temperature, in August, at Fort Reading, in the Sacramento Valley, or those obtained farther south, in New Mexico.* CORRECTION FOR THE ABNORMAL VARIATIONS OF THE ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE. The amount of this variation differs much according to the climatical character and elevation of the stations. ‘There was no meteorological station in the interior of Utah, +» the climatical zone of our survey, besides that at Camp Floyd, where barometric observations were taken under direction of the medical department of the Army. Although we went several hundred miles from that place and passed high ranges of mountains, I considered it safe to apply the corrections indicated by the changes of the barometer at Camp Floyd, as it is a well-established fact that the variations extend over hundreds of miles of the same zone with little change. Although we were part of the a superficial examination. 176 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. time nearer to San Francisco, I preferred to base the corrections throughout on Camp Floyd, because the climate of San Francisco is one of periodical changes, while that of the interior is non-periodic, and because ‘San Francisco is several thousand feet lower than the Basin. The difference of the monthly mean readings of the barometer from the yearly mean has not been found analogous in both districts, although many of the ereat variations of the atmespheric pressure will undoubtedly be felt simultaneously in the interior of Utah and on the Pacific coast. The diagram of the observations at Camp Floyd, corrected for the horary oscilla- tions, showed in general a satisfactory agreement with the corresponding diagrams of the single camps, and even for the most western point reached by us; for as regards the city of Genoa, in Carson Valley, Utah, these diagrams agree better with each other than those for Genoa and San Francisco. Local storms and rains in the single mount- ain ranges affect the parallelism of the diagrams in some instances; but the differences produced in that way are probably not considerable, and partly, at least, are counter- balanced by the corresponding changes in temperature, &c.* Between the abnormal variations of the barometers at Camp Floyd and Fort - Bridger I also found a most remarkable coincidence, and nearly simultaneous changes, when I plotted the diagrams of corresponding observations, made very carefully at these points in September and October, 1858. « CORRECTION OF THE OBSERVED AIR-TEMPERATURES. The method of computation requires the introduction of the mean temperatures of the days, instead of the observed temperatures. ‘'T'o find the mean temperature more accurately, and make the correction more systematic, I have deduced the following tables from observations made in connection with the hourly observations of the ba- rometer for determining the horary oscillations of the mercurial column. These inter- esting tables show the mean difference of the temperature of each hour from the mean temperature of the day for different stations and seasons. The curves on plate B repre- sent these variations graphically. The marks * indicate the times of sunrise and sun- set. me As no observations had been made during the hours of night, the mean’ tempera- ture of the twenty-four hours was calculated under the supposition that the temperature decreases regularly from 9 p. m. to near sunrise, which, in the highly elevated re- gions, comes very near the truth. * Long after the computation of the altitudes bad been finished, I took up the study of the hygrometrica] obser vations, the leading results of which will be found in the latter portion of this report. They impressed me still more with the necessity of selecting, as a lower or fixed station, a point which actually p ts the sa limatical feat the station the altitude of which is to be determined. I found, besides, that when the local storms occur, the hygro metrical observations will enable an experienced meteorologist to apply some discretionary corrections and to judge better the comparative accuracy of the results of different computations ; although I still repudiate the introduction of the force of vapor into the hypsometric formule. By them he is also enabled better to judge which one of the various- tables of horary oscillations is best adapted to the single observations. é tt GCG inh AACN ALA ni y fl E uc nt il Ta HAG AA A A A AA A (|RSS ee Hae Eee EERE + Lt inion TT TTT AN ell Tet Mae en cia aa ameanmy | | il | i l Hee AAA i ao A Ce HAAR AA Gc it titi ei CE fi A aan o Hl ni wut iit iti a ER iii (NN a A Mi Hee ‘an OTC <§Kiii hs hl fete Tt ce Ll HA A A { Temperature 5. 1011 O tase din LS. $i A) a ‘a il TEE A A an W Hn i i A AA i HAA A AN A A Tn OT oh i\ Ni -| NTT apane ae | A En a | iH \ } AANA il i Al Mn TTT it IN EL AAAS NA ml EEN N A ia CAAT Le ot CA EE oh | na ING i A mM AAA fi ni TAN mi stn Hi ih | 4 Wy 1 at ll Ha it | i vA we SENATE al fp \ TT US i A eR A ie i 7 4 - 4 Simpson. LHL. + == UR CLA = = a = —— — =o == Ses Zaeaeont 1 | + i iH} | | Hourly Variat at different stations and seasons =.= == =e = —— poe a ‘Seasocssat 7 ———4 == S a! Explorations of Capt SH. BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 17 B.—Corrections for horary oscillation of temperature, in degrees, Fahrenheit. Hours. a Il. big a | iv. Vv. VI Vil. Vill. Sem [+ 9.&] Pa 8 Sees ia ee AAW BR: civ ees ; (+19. 0] 22, be m + 8&0 +13, 8 +10.0 +1L +14, + 9. 5t +14. 0) +180 bag + 4.8 + 29 + 5.7 oe E + 10% + 9 + 7.0 8.0 a. + 15 +1 — 1 +2 + 4 + 5. — 05 — 3.0 9 a.m — 20 — 4,5 — 6, —2 —1 — 0. — 65 —10.0 _ a. _ 5.2 — 8 — 9. — 6, — 6. — 7. —11.0 ~14.0 bb a.m —'F5 —I1, —1 — 9 —ll. —12. —14.0 —16.0 . mM — 9.2 —13. —1 —Il1, —15. — 15, —16.0 —18,0 il p.m —10.5 —15, —l —13. —1&, —I7. —17.0 —19. 0 2p. m —1L2 —16. —I +13, —18. —18, —17.0 —20. 0 3 p.m =e 1G, —{X, 13, a ie BY, —16.0 20. 0 4p.m —10.5 —14, -- 9, 11. —18 iy. —14.3 —18, 5, 5 p.m — 95 —12, — 4, — 9, —15 6. —11.0 —15.5 6 p. m ae on Bs 0. a4 emt ok a —11.0 7 p.m — 23 — 4. + 3. — 1. — § 0. — 15 ra 8p.m. 18 ee ae. ie oes: | aE + 1.0 [Fito 9p.m +33 + 7. + 6. + 3.0 + 5. +2 + 3.2 + 47 * 5.30 a. m. + 6.30 a. m. No. I was deduced from 9 days’ observations at Fort Kearney, Nebr; taken between June 19 and July 1, 1858, at an elevation of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Three more days’ obvervaiions were rejected on account of great irregulari- ties, in consequence of rain. The mean temperature was 77°.5; the weather mostly fine. } : No. II was deduced from 4 days’ observations taken at Fort Laramie, Nebr., from July 30 to August 3, 1858, at an elevation of 4,470 feet, with a mean tempera- ture of 67°, and favorable weather. No. III was deduced from 6 days’ dhabr vations at Fort Bridger, Utah, taken from September 28 to October 4, at an elevation above the sea of 6,656 feet, with a mean temperature of 53°. The weather was mostly fair, partly aondy and rainy. Some more days’ observations had to be rejected on account of a snow-storm. No. IV was deduced from observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from April 4 to 23, 1859, at an elevation above the level of the sea of 4,860 feet, with a mean temperature of 42°. The weather was partly clear, but mostly cloudy, even with some snow and rain. The diagrams of the single days are very irregular, but as the observations had been taken so long, it was not considered necessary to eliminate the irregularities. .The mean variations, which are. given in the table, include them all. No. V was deduced from 3 days’ observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from August 6 to 9, 1859, with a mean temperature of 69°.5, and clear, favorable weather. No. VI was deduced from observations taken at Camp Floyd from October 30 to November 10, 1858, with a mean temperature of 35°. The weather was calm and clear, and the diagram presents, therefore, sharply marked features. No. VIL was deduced from observations taken at Genoa, Carson Valley, Utah, at an elevation of 4,824 feet above the level of the sea, from June 12 to 23,1859. The mean temperature was 76°.3, the weather fine and clear. The shape of this diagram, with its early maximum, may be due partly to local causes incident to the peculiar situation of the camp. No. VIII was deduced from 2 days’ tri-hourly observations in Woodruff Valley, one of the desert valleys of the interior of Utah Territory, at an elevation of 5,940 feet above the level of the sea, taken end of May, 1859, with a mean temperature of 53°, ane clear weather.* A di iacram of still more marked shape was obtained from 2 days’ observations at Camp Floyd i in the middle of PE it has the excessive amplitude of 48°.3 Fahrenheit. More will be said of it below. 23 BU te 178 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTfAH. It is scarcely necessary to remark that, in the application of these corrections, proper discretion is required on the part of the computer, and that the tables are merely intended to help him. While the variations are smaller on a clouded and rainy day, not favorable for radiation, they are larger on a clear day, and much depends upon local circumstances, and the direction and force of the winds, &c. When the successive camps and minor stations are in the same valley, or do not differ much in altitude and physical relations, the mean temperatures may be determined with great precision; but where the altitude and relative position of the stations vary much, as they did on our survey in Utah, from low, arid valleys or scorched slopes to narrow canons or high mountain summits, it is very difficult to determine the mean temperature of the day from one or a few observations, the more so because the hour of the maximum tem- perature also changes according to the relative situation of the stations. SELECTION OF A FIXED STATION. After all these corrections had been applied, the observations were ready for com- putation. The tables of Prof. A. Guyot, based on La Place’s formula, were used for this purpose. Next the question arose what should be taken as the lower or fixed station for the calculation of the altitudes in Utah. As most of them are considerably high, between 5,000 and 8,000 feet, the air-temperature appears as an important ele- ment in the computation. A difference of 1 degree in the temperature changes the result 1 foot for every 900 feet of the height. By taking the sea-level as the lower station, with a comparatively high mean temperature, this element appears to exercise an unduly great influence on the result, after all the corrections have been applied, which, if fully answering the purpose, would require the mean temperature of the year to be used, not the one, generally much higher, of the day of the observation. Camp Floyd was an elevated inland station, for which the mean reading of the barom- eter and thermometer could be ascertained, and the altitude of which could, therefore, be determined satisfactorily. By taking Camp Floyd as the lower station, I decreased — in a great measure the influence of the temperature in the computations, and all errors arising from that source. The altitudes of all places not very far from Camp Floyd were certainly obtained much more correctly in this way, and I believe also most of the others; at least I obtained by this method results which agreed very satisfactorily in several cases when observations, taken at different times, controlled each other, while the use of the sea-level as the lower Station would mostly have given greater discrepancies. : : It might be urged that, in case the altitude of Camp Floyd was not correctly determined, this error would be propagated by assuming it as the fixed station. The error in the altitude might originate from various causes: Firstly. The values assumed as mean readings of barometer and thermometer at the level of the sea might not be those best adapted for the special purpose; then the computer would introduce the same causes of error into the other calculations, and the results would be obtained even more uniform on assuming an intermediate station for references. Secondly. The mean reading of barometer and thermometer, as given for Camp Floyd, might not be absolutely correct. This error cannot be great. If the values did not correspond to BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 179 the station of Camp Floyd, they would correspond to an imaginary one a few feet higher or lower. The altitude computed for Camp Floyd would then be that of this imaginary station, and the other altitudes would not be affected by that error at all, but would be obtained correctly. Lastly. It might be doubted whether the alti- tude of a station far inland, with a peculiar climate, could be determined correctly, even from the yearly mean reading of the barometer and thermometer, and that thus the elevation computed for Camp Floyd might be incorrect. Errors arising from that source would certainly be much greater if minor inland stations were directly com- _ pared with the sea-level, than if they were computed with reference to a station with their own climatical features, the altitude of which had been determined from a whole year’s observations. If not correct, the elevation would then at least be obtained more relatively correct among themselves. The introduction of the corrections for horary and abnormal variations has done a great deal toward eliminating errors from that source, but as these corrections cannot possibly be found to suit each single observa- tion, I consider it the best policy to decrease the liability of errors in the results of calculation by decreasing the altitude between the upper and lower stations; in other words, by assuming Camp Floyd as the lower station instead of the level of the sea. The lowest portion of the route is lower than Camp Floyd, and I hesitated to make use of that station as the fixed one. Still, I considered it better to retain uni- formity in the computations. ‘The different values obtained for the altitude of Genoa, in Carson Valley, by the different modes of computation, will show the advantages of the method followed by me. Twelve days’ careful observations had been taken there, and minor errors were thus eliminated. The diagrams of the abnormal variations of the barometers at Genoa and Camp Floyd, as well as their mean readings for those days, correspond well together, as I have stated above, and the temperature at the time was very high at both points. If the altitude of Camp Floyd had been caleu- lated from these ebservations only, by whatever method, it would have been found very near equal to that of Genoa computed in the same way. By my method this was obtained. I found Genoa 4,824 feet high, while Camp Floyd is 4,860 feet high. I then computed the altitude with reference to the mean reading at the level of the sea, and the abnormal oscillation observed at Camp Floyd. I found it 5,004 feet, which is much too high, because in this case, where the corrections give a nearly exact compensation, the mean temperature of the year only would give a good result, while the high temperature of these days, in connection with the great difference of level between the upper and lower stations, raises the result unduly. Again, I com- puted the altitude with reference to observations during the same days at San Fran- cisco, thus introducing the very large abnormal oscillation of the barometer in the middle of June at that place, which, I felt satisfied, was larger than the correction required for Genoa, but which might have been compensated by the high degree of temperature. Thus I obtained the altitude, only 4,633 feet (as near as I could get it without some corrections, the values of which were unknown to me). It will be seen that the mean of these two extreme results, 5,004 and 4,633, happens to be 4,81 8, very near what my method gives. This example shows forcibly what I consider as the advantage of computing from a fixed station, which does not differ teo much in alti- 180 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. tude from those which shall be determined, namely, that extremes of error are thus avoided, although in single instances other methods may give better results. In cal- culating the profile of a country, quite different rules must be followed from those best answering for the computation of the altitude of a single mountain. The altitudes of points on the roads between Camp Floyd and Fort Bridger, Utah, were computed before the yearly mean readings at Camp Floyd had been determined. I had, therefore, to make use of the corresponding readings of the barometer at both stations, which answers the same purpose, and of the mean temperature of the days. But as the temperature, during the season of these surveys, was generally moderate, and the difference of the altitude of the upper and lower stations mostly not very considerable, the obtained values must be nearly correct. The altitude of Fort Bridger, determined in that way, agrees perfectly with that obtained from a large mean. Some of these observations could not be referred to simultaneous observations at Camp Floyd or Fort Bridger, and I had to compare them with such obtained on the same days at other camps, the altitudes of which had been determined before, or even with camps of the preceding and following days. Although this method is very objectionable as a general thing, I consider the results in this case as more reliable because the circumstances were uncommonly favorable; and especially the corrections for the daily variations of the barometer gave such complete compensation that the plot of the barometric readings of the single stations could be filled up satisfactorily for the intervening hours. Of the different values thus obtained for a point, the means were taken, which probably give a close approximation to the real altitudes. ALTITUDE OF CAMP FLOYD. The determination of the mean reading of the barometer and thermometer at Camp Floyd was a matter of considerable importance to me, because I wanted to make use of them, and the altitude of the station computed from them, as a basis for most of the other computations, as I have stated above. At our station observations had been regularly taken during the 6 months from November, 1858, to April, 1859 ; partly hourly, 16 a day; partly 6 every day, and partly at the hours of 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m., every day. The mean of these was calculated with due reference to the different number of observations, and the necessary corrections were applied. This mean was found to be 25.129 inches at 32° of the mercury. The results of observations during the next 6 months, from May to October, 1859, regularly taken at the hospital at Camp Floyd, at the hours of 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m., were kindly furnished by the medical department. Their mean, reduced to our standard and station, is 25.150 inches. The mean for the whole year is, therefore, 25.140 inches, English, at 32° of the mercury. The mean temperature of the year was deduced from 6 months’ observations at our station; 3 months’ observations by Asst. Surg. Thomas H. Williams, medical director of the Department of Utah, and 3 months’ observations at the hospital, under direction of Asst. Surg. J. Moore, U.S. A. It is 47° Fahrenheit. I assumed 30.050 inches as the mean reading of the barometer, the mercury re- duced to 32° Fahrenheit, and 54° as mean air temperature at the level of the sea, best BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 181 adapted for the computation of the altitude of Camp Floyd and points of a similar geographical position. It is the mean of the values corresponding to the Pacific coast in the neighborhood of San Francisco, and to the Atlantic coast near the 40th parallel of latitude. I thus obtained the altitude of Camp Floyd as 4,867 feet. To test the correctness of this result, I computed the elevation of Fort Bridger from a mean of 8 months’ observations, taken there from January to August, 1859, under direction of Asst. Surg. R. Bartholow, and, later, of Asst. Surg. K. Ryland, U. 5. A. This mean, corrected for the zero error of the instrument, is 23.513 inches, and 42° air tempera- ture, which values probably represent very nearly the mean of the year. I thus found the altitude 6,688 feet—1,791 more than that of Camp Floyd, while the mean difference of elevation between both points, determined in various ways, from very careful simultaneous observations, and from large means, is 1,796 feet. These results agree very satisfactorily, and speak for the correctness of the observations and method. Taking into consideration, moreover, the height of the instruments above the ground, we may assume as well established the altitude of Camp Floyd (parade ground, near headquarters) as 4,860 feet, and of Fort Bridger (parade ground), as 6,656 feet. In these computations, as in the other, the elastic force of the aqueous vapor has not been taken into consideration, but La Place’s formula has been made use of, for the reasons stated above. 3 GENERAL REMARKS IN REGARD TO CAMP FLOYD AND THE UTAH BASIN. The reading of the barometer at Camp Floyd varied considerably during the different months. The highest monthly mean was observed in January; the lowest in February. A higher atmospheric pressure seems to prevail in the fall and first part of winter; a lower one in the spring and part of summer; but as the observations have not all been made with the same degree of accuracy, and cover too limited a time, it would be unsafe to draw definite conclusions from them. The subjoined table contains the monthly means, the authorities for which I have stated above (namely, myself, Dr. Williams, and Dr. Moore). It also contains the quantities of rain and melted snow at Camp Floyd, taken, from 1858 to 1859, from the rec ords of the Medi cal Department of the Army, and at Salt Lake City, from March, 1857, to February, 1858, upon the authority of a Mr. W. W. Phelps, a citizen of that place. Barometric pressure. Temperature. Rain and melted snow, in inches. s Observer, Dr. | Observer, Mr. W. Month. : De Moore. W. Phelps. Inches, | 3 “1 8 Year. ‘ Year. | Fahren sear id heit. | & C Salt Lak 2 2 Jamp e a ZB | Year. |wioya.| *°| City. ° a) 0 ber a ie 1858. . 25.208 | E. | 1858.. 34.0 | E. | 1858.. 0.50 | 1857... 2. 80 WADE a aca ch kee hee ee abet teen eseete me ye rer 1858. . 25.106} E. | 1858.. 22.0} E. | 1858.. 0.30 | 1857 - 5. 40 SOWGREY 5a i a conc sige ce temo ten rome sarees 1859. - 25.297 | E. | 1859. - 16.2| KE. | 1859-- 0.35 | 1858... 0. 30 WEY cou ca ory rarsaled vn > eevee so ieee < eoeweonens 1859...| 25.031} E. | 1859-. 29.9 | E. | 1859.. 1. 14 | 1858... 1.37 WN het Es ean na oo wle's ooo ihewtee cen e--.| 1859... 25.069 | E. | 1859 - 31.9 | E. | 1859.. 0.28 | 1858... 0. 39 i oa enn Sree ene ee ake eren ane 1859... 25.062 | E. | 1859. - 43.6 | E. | 1859. 0,40) 1858... 0.19 MERE Sci es ka one co niin owe eee ewe se © 1859 . 25.082 | M. | 1859.- 54.71. W. | 3859... 0.40 | 1858 .. 0.83 PEG ole oe ee eee e Ute ce eet aes oe enn 1859. - 25.122 | M. | 1859.. 74.7 | We | 3850. . 0.03 | 1858. --| 1. OL July teenie aoe} 1859 25.175 | M. | 1859... 75.0} W. | 1859.. 2.28 1858. . 0. 64 MAG os Sica ees seg wee eae ne pene ee een errr 1859. . 95.133 +} M. | 1859... 72.1 | M. | 1859.. 0.18 | 1858... 0. 85 tombe. cob bie vcnie sek o cter + _— YL a pre | Ca fo) Gv A) ww x — ct SA. tn LEFG SURLPTIS M os r 2 Sp a ir \ y eat ral it] WY Ut | § —_EEC[cCCcC[C[c[_«_.,AiccA A Nate ant ieAtn wT—""— TE TT TT TTT TT TT sett ACen ae eee tg i Oi?V$D;65D5SG:I I (I T(t (itt ttt rxkiTiii tii A Mt a eet HANA A AL A OO llETE(iH# ltt ttt AAA AS chi ull Tt Re i TT TTT TT tTivD TT TT TT TT TT TD H1WHwEt!!_t§_ (ii iT TT TTT TT TT TTL LT TT TT TET Te HtGOQ0VQWWtttiitt itt. iii ll :, HANI \ ni , Mii Hii | i\ ta | | AANA mitt titi SH ODVVODiDwiGOCGiiiiliPn An TT TT TE TT TT TT TT AANA AAA HHT iti(vVvViHv#§#H[Fi3Giittittiniiniiiin»niinl» nll Twn HE 1} itt i] | a HE i} | | Ht = > S = 3 o =} S > > r=) = S oS > = S S ro) S ° r=) S ° ° e S =) © = ° ra) e° © ra) : oe. eS Be Ne “ 3 i) 5 3S & 3 ; x & ra & o & S e & $ = & S & E] a =| = Ss <= | x = a ea os = n 3 S n nN “ i} nN NI AM Explorations of Guypt JH. Simpson LA r>) os Cel N rot nd pt = a a oF oe Pv a n = as ot a SS ‘ te 1 mee . rl: Eaplorations of Gypt. Ah Siapson, Lh. CUS, ta 1852 Plate D. Daily Oseillations of the Relative Humidity of the Atmosphere. tit } i i} ~ ~ © i| iif | | H ag AAAI i] | ao era oe LAS LS | i . Tih itt itt TN rteititd} | ci 5 i=} & UTE AAT ull | 3 AAR al Ma | eT S wo CAAA AMARA ll Dit | IK EE ENT Onn MT il Ta vl a Le I & A AN i fi TM mi i i =z) aA | Al I | a I Fi 3 i a | ET mn a Vy Ct ts > het — | i) TI Tn all i al = a o ee LTT oy & OMAR CTS TE CNSR ALT KEI sie CA a OH UT | LFA ue = a UI ane Hi cen iN | WA | mt i UH il | | i Ht TE TER) PM. | AN \| | | | | NG EL | 1 i Hit ‘ a / ri MM ETN | A | ‘ | | UEETELLLI | NERA RNAE AARETIORG aT ALESIS ese %, a Mit | i | ce Ht | | Wi Ee aa tT] H NE = AA mn a iN ] | | i i CT \ al { | ell AA | tt | IN AAT A TC Hitidt Wiytl | {I * \ ih i RUT rae TCT i | | t i H HT i 1} tit 1 thd t | : i Ii if i A i | CO | POSEN MERE AS OSE Aa i aH if | 1] eaneaanan mA HF = \ 4 a Mh oe j 1} = i] A A TTT tii iN Ser eee eae el S A NA LE | LT I i nA H wi CL ET | | ee i % itt — | } mi mT { | tt i Ie Vi eaene NTT LL NI iW AM NI cn a we toa 14 | i} TT ttt ae ith itt : ss tt 1 } aa ET | it OT SE On CU ct | 1} HLL AE ANI LOL | ) | : | COT \ AA EEN Ti | | | } i ttt i | i iti i nc EET TE A NTE i | i iii a t | | i EE ET na BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 187 C.— Table of daily oscillations of the force of vapor, in inches (English), of the mercurial column. 1 Iv. VIL Hour. c ‘ ray. Vv. VL Vu. or- Cor- Cor- Observed. seated. Observed. rected. Observed. feiss 5,20 a.m. a.m 0. 609 0. 332 0. 332 0. 100 0.144 0.144 0. 270 0.118 Nis Beenie 0. 125 a.m 614 . 353 ae ee 158 S17 Se . 300 a.m 627 . 349 nis fl Seems 169 , 170 . 290 317 a.m 654 . 362 366 057 .1P0 . 182 297 172 2 eae ae 115 10 a.m 679 370 Silo eides . 190 190 ee bas Sat 30 lla.m 690 . 364 B64. och rts 7133 181 poe pee ee Q75 12 680 . 329 336 103 Ry si 172 282 097 OE Se 106 m 670 340) Site . 159 .164 eee cee nee ee 181 2 p.m 637 ee . 160 . 156 wpe ee 202 D. ™ 22 342 336 086 151 150 230 048 ee Seen on 064 4p.m 612 353 348 143 146 Eee MO is ea. p.m 605 339 ee ee ee . 154 142 182 face p.m 60 385 372 104 . 138 wl 40 057 240 0, 235 041 p.m 611 Sts Sa 138 . 138 Be as Gs, Cee mene 9 a ee Sea p.m 617 96 ate as 143 143 PTS besos 203 9 p.m . 625 363 351 086 153 152 85 102 Se ae ecee 057 10 p.m . 625 | D.— Table of daily oscillations of the relative humidity. Saturation = 100. Il. III. Vv. VIL. Hour. L Iv. VI. VIL. Observed| COP lobserved.| COT, Observed.) Cor Observed] Cor, 5.20 a. m a.m 75. 75. 37.0 37.0 76, 0 oe BS Sires 41.5 ieee: 0 OW aes eee ee 75. ¢ 66. B54 5 cerca Bic5 69.5 57. 1 TE aR Race Oh Be ERAGE GY a.m 51. 56. 16.5 63.0 49. 34. ee ea 49, 49, 9.0 11.5 57.0 $04 21.5 epee aes 22.0 S0.am cess: 62. 44, AO es 10.0 51.0 30. ie te eee 57 38. B66 berg 9. 43.0 25. 18, 12m 52 31. 33. 11.5 9 39.0 Tr eae 1.5 Ue | eee 14.0 MAG eee 49. 31. SG cs 9.5 37.0 19. 11. Rein Sa ae 46." 30. "NEL pe ele 10 35.0 22. £0 tee 13. p.m 45. 33. 31. 10.7 10 34.0 16 16.0 3.5 i681. 7.7 $po es 45.2 33.2 $0 12. 35.0 15. 15.0 boo Sw Me 47, 34, 36. 14 37.0 160). 205: 18. ¢ Op. tees 50. § 43. 40. 16.7 16 40. 0 14. ( 16.5) 5 Ok 22. : 20 5.3 DW walt, 60. i 46. 18 46.0 22. 190 {cS 23. $6.0 1i..- Dein oi 63, 4 56. $ MeO 20. ¢ 52.0 25. S01 Qi. é 8 ee tian oc. 74. € 66. $ 66. 23. 0 23. ( 60.0 33. ¢ 33.0 22.5 oe an 15.0 10 p.m ove TG. Bhi canes Gade cia se yed}se cutee oe | [ke Ses eaas | cue ter wan Ppecents seston ease ucPiccctun en foene ses ox No. I C and D was deduced from 11 days’ observations at Fort Kearney, Ne- braska, from June 19 to 30, 1858, at an elevation of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. 7 The mean temperature was 77°.5 Fahrenheit. The mean force of vapor was 0.628 inch; the relative humidity, 68.4, and the mean weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air, 6.75 grains troy. (See Table E.) No.I C and D corresponds to No. I B, and very nearly also to No. II A, which may be considered as forming together one set. It rained on five occasions altogether during 28 hours, but the aggregate quantity of rain was only 1.40 inches. Dew was observed on 3 mornings. Of the 12 nights which this mean includes sheet-lightning was observed on 7, which on one océasion terminated in a thunder-storm, of which there were two. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 10 p. m. averaged 3.66, the whole sky being 10, and, including the hours of the night by interpolation, 3.35. The clouds were mostly cirro-cumuli, or cirro-stratus, except when it rained. The 190 hourly observations of the wind during that time, between 5 a. m. and 10 p. m., give the following results, the strength being expressed by the numbers from 0 to 10: 188 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Per cent. Av. force. Per cent. Av. force. CS Met Se area 32.1 4.8 Northeast wind ........- 44 1.5 South-southeast wind.... .30.0 4.4 North-northeast wind.... 1.1 15 Southeast wind...._...- 12.6 3.7 Nord wind . 603. 0.5 1.0 East-southeast wind... -- 4.7 1.8 Southwest wind......... 0.5 5.0 Bee Wie oe 2.1 2.0 South-southwest wind... 2.1 5.0 East-northeast wind... . - 21 Pi Oalniiess 5 i 2 es es 133 0.0 From north-northwest and west-southwest no wind occurred during this time. The average force of the wind, including the calms, was 3.65, exclusive of the night. The only slight discretionary correction of the obtained mean values was made in C at 5 p.m. and 6 p. m., as indicated in the diagram, where an evident irr egularity occurred, probably maid by some abnormal change in the atmosphere, rain- os or the like. No. II C and D was deduced from 4 days’ observations taken at Fort Laramie, Nebr., from July 30 to August 3, 1858, at an elevation of about 4,470 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature of these days was 67°.0 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was 0.344; the relative humidity, 57.0; the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 3.78 grains troy. Nos. II C and D correspond to No. II B and No. II A; they form altogether one set. It had thundered, and rained a few drops, shortly talons the first observation was taken, and it rained twice afterward, for.a few moments; but the average quantity of rain was scarcely 0.01 inch. Dew was observed every morning near the river. On 2 of the evenings sheet-lightning was observed, and once — distant thunder. Thunder-storms are numerous in that neighborhood and season. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged 4.62, and, including interpolations for the night, 4.37, the clouds being mostly cumuli. This eS cloudiness compared with Fort Kearney, while the relative humidity is, on the contrary, less, is a consequence of the neighborhood of the highly-elevated sum- mits of the Rocky Mountains, the lower temperature and comparative moistness of which favors the formation of clouds, which, however, dissolve again when they sink into the lower regions of the air. Of the 64 observations of the wind during these 4 days, between 6 a. m. and 9 p. m.— 24 showed easterly winds, including N. E. and S. E., with average force of 2.4. 14 showed westerly winds, including N. W. and S. W., with average force of 3.0. 13 skowed northerly winds, including N. N. W. and N.N. E., with average force of 2.0. 3 showed southerly winds, including S. 8. E. and 8. 8. W., with average force of 2.0. - 10 showed perfect calmness. The average force of wind, including the calms, was 2.0. The wind shifted con- tinually, and this, in connection with the peculiar situation of Fort Laramie, at the foot of the high range of the Rocky Mountains, and bordering on the vast arid plains, in consequence of which the shifting wind at once brings currents of air of a quite different temperature and degree of moisture, makes the observed values of No. II C and D somewhat irregular, which irregularity is increased by the influence of the two thunder-storms. Some discretionary corrections have, therefore, been required. } BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 189 No. III © and D was deduced from tri-hourly observations, taken at Fort Bridger, Utah, from September 2 to September 5, 1858, at an elevation of 6,616 feet above the leve] of the sea. ‘The mean temperature during these days was 59°.0 Fahrenheit ; the mean force of vapor only 0.088 inch; the relative humidity, 21.6; and the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 0.98 grain troy. Nos. IC and D do not exactly corres- pond to No. III B and No. IV A, which were taken a fortnight later, under somewhat different circumstances. Neither rain nor dew fell, but a few hours after the close of the observations a rain-storm set in, which gradually brought on snow. The cloud- iness of the sky between the hours of 6 a.m. and 9 p. m. averaged 2.33, mostly cirri, and, including the hours of the night, by interpolation, 1.75. Western winds were prevailing, with an average force of 4, coming from the arid regions of the Great _ Basin. A very slight discretionary correction has only been made in No. III D. No. IV C and D was deduced from 19 days’ observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from April 4 to April 23, 1859, at an elevation of 4,860 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature was 42°.0 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor, 0.155 inch; the relative humidity, 57.0; and the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 1.68 grains troy. No. IV Cand D correspond to No. IV B, and very nearly also to No. V A, which together form one set. During the time of these observations it snowed on nine occasions and.rained on one, in an aggregate 22 hours, of which 10 hours were on the 9th, the remainder on the 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th. The whole precipitation probably did not exceed 0.5 inch of water. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged 5.37, and, including the hours of night, by interpolation, 5.16. The clouds were mostly cumuli, During 18 hours out of 100 the sky was cloudless. This rather large cloudiness has its cause in the altitude of the surround- ing mountain ranges, which were still extensively covered with snow, while the tem- perature in the deserts to the west was already high and the evaporation strong. The 312 hourly observations of the wind during that time, between 6 a. m. and 9 p. m., give the following results: North, north-northeast, and northeast winds, 33.3 per cent., with an average force of 2 8. South and southeast winds, 12.8 per cent., with an average force of 3.4. Southwest and west-southwest winds, 9.3 per cent., with an average force of 4.0. West and west-northwest winds, 8.3 per cent., with an average force of 2.0. Northwest and north-northwest winds, 6.1 per cent., with an average force of 1.8. East, east-southeast, and southeast winds, 10.3 per cent., with an average force of 2.3 Perfect calmness, 19.9 per cent. _ This table of winds will be better understood and appreciated if I mention that the north and northeast winds pass longitudinally over Cedar Valley, the valley in which Camp Floyd is situated, coming over low hills from the Salt Lake Valley. The south and south-southeast winds, and the southwest and west-southwest winds, the strongest winds, pass also more or less longitudinally over the valley, the former from the valleys at the base of the Wahsatch range; the latter over low mountains, from the vast deserts in the direction of Sevier Lake. The west and west-northwest winds pass across the valley, entering it from Rush Valley. They acquire less force 190 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. because they are intercepted, in their forward and backward direction, by high ranges of mountains. For the same reason the eastern winds are not very strong. The northwest and north-northwest winds are still less numerous and weaker, because they find still more obstructions. The average force of wind, including the calms, was 2.27, and, including the hours of the night, by interpolation, probably 1.84. We may account for this comparatively small force by the circumstance that the valley: is surrounded by high mountain ranges which break the force of the currents in the lower strata of the atmosphere. Some very strong squalls were felt, however, lasting for several hours. In No. IV D not the least corrections have been found necessary; but in No. IV C some small corrections have been required, in consequence of the unsettled state of the weather. No. V C and D was deduced from 3 days’ observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from August 6 to August 9, 1859. The mean temperature of these days was 69°.5 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was 0.238 inch; the mean_ relative humidity, 38.0, and the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 2.59 grains troy. No. V C and D correspond to No. V B, and very nearly to No. VI A, which may be considered as forming together one set. No rain nor dew fell. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a.m. and 9 p. m. averaged only 0.56, but if we make interpolations for the hours, probably to 0.62. The average force of the wind, includ- ing the calms, between 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. was 1.7; fully one-half of the observations showed northerly winds, with an average force of 2.5; 23 per cent. were calms, and the remainder southerly and westerly winds. No. V C did not require the slightest corrections, but for No. V D a few slight corrections appeared to be desirable, and have been indicated. : No. VIC and D was deduced from 3 days’ hourly observations taken at Camp Floyd, from September 15 to 18. The mean temperature was 64°.7 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was 0.103 inch; the mean relative humidity was 21.9; the mean weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air, 2.67 grains troy. Nos. VII C and D correspond to No. VII Band No. X A, with which they form one set. The weather was fine; no rain nor thunder-storms occurred. No dew was observed at camp, but was formed most likely on the meadows below. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a.m. and 9 p.m. averaged 1.6; and including interpolations for the night, probably 13. The clouds were mostly cumulo-cirri and some cumulo-stratus; over half of the time the sky was perfectly cloudless. The average force of the wind between 6 a.m.and 9 p. m. was 1.6 including the calms, which lasted 18.5 per cent. of the time; 23.8 per cent. were north and northeast winds, passing up the valley _ with an average force of 1.7; 38.5 per cent. were south and southwest winds, blowing down the valley with an average force of 2.1; 11.3 per cent. were west and northwest winds, passing down a narrow cafion in the Sierra Nevada with a force of 2.4; only 7.9 per cent. were east winds, passing up that cation with an average force of 1.1. The computed values of No. VII D appeared to require a slight correction at the hours of 6 and 7 p. m., and. then No. VII C was changed slightly to make it corre- spond better to D; but it is very likely that the uncorrected values are preferable, the apparent irregularity being caused by the peculiar situation of the station. - BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 191 No. VIII C and D was deduced from 3 days’ tri-hourly observations taken from May 29 to June 2, 1859, in Woodruff Valley, one of the arid deserts of the interior of Utah, at an elevation of about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature of these days was 55°.0 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was only 0.093 inch; the mean relative humidity was 29.1, and the mean weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air was 1.08 grains troy. Nos. VIII C and D correspond very nearly, although not exactly, to No. VIII B. They give the unaltered means of the computed values. The cloudiness of the sky averaged 1.4, or, including interpolations for the night, 1.3. The force of the wind averaged 2.4, while its direction changed be- tween north, south, and west. " After having thus stated the particulars in regard to each of the above tables I will give a more comprehensive view of the results, and have for that purpose arranged the Table E. It is based upon the Tables B, C, and D, but contains interpolations for all the hours when no direct observations have been taken, and corresponds mostly to the same diagrams. The columns for temperature, force of vapor, and relative humid- ity contain the means of direct observations, or of computations from the single obser- vations. The columns headed force of vapor at saturation, and weight of vapor at saturation, are deduced from the columns of temperature with the aid of Regnault’s tables. 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Tze) be] Le] O'oe] bse] LFS] 9 GE] 6OE| COs] Le, C76) 9'6z) 6B) TOE) FOE) 9°0E BIE {oyuoayy seoadop “oanpusodura,y, *havnuv ep + ond ° fo) ~ a or o oo 2% _ a _ e © a ~ a w es w ~w ~ ° f PIE ei sie el el ele le le le eee ee el | fl ee Pigia | RPEELEe Le Be Be ee ee ee ee ee ee *SaNOTT ‘ “pry Capon) 70 ‘suoyrpuoo orsjamoubhy pun aanyosaduay fo suonnpvoso hpanoy oy fo QV, — BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 195 The hourly variations of temperature, as they are exhibited in the above tables and diagrams, afford a subject of much interesting speculation. In examining them, we notice at once how much the time of the daily maximum is variable, bicebrding to season and locality; but still more striking is the great difference of amplitude, and the more gradual or abrupt ascent and descent of the curves. My object is to present the data obtained by our exploration, and not to enter into an elaborate discussion, I will therefore confine myself merely to point out a few of the causes which co-operate to produce these interesting differences. The first diagram presents the hourly variations of the temperature at Fort Kearney, Nebr., in June. The mean temperature was 77°.5,. Fahrenheit, while at Philadelphia it is only 68° to 69° in June, although the latter place is situated over two-thirds of a degree of latitude farther south, and over 2,000 feet lower. We have no reason to believe that the temperature of June, 1*58, at Fort Kearney, has been so much above the average that this result should not indicate a considerable north- ward bend in the lines of equal temperature for that season in the plains of the Platte River region. It merely confirms prior observations, and verifies the result of theo- retical deductions, based upon the situation of that country, in the center of a large continent, far away from any sea-coast, and open toward the north and south, It should be borne in mind that the values for Philadelphia are deduced from a much larger series of observations than those at Kearney, which latter might perhaps be a little above the actual average. Still, these and all the other observations have not been taken on days especially selected for the purpose, but indiscriminately, as the execution of the surveys made it convenient. For that reason they might as well present smaller values than the average. The difference between the warmest and coldest hours of the day at Fort Kearney amounts to 21° Fahrenheit, while at Phila- delphia, according to table F, the amplitude is only 15°.4. This, too, is a consequence of the continental situation of the place. The actual amount of vapor in the atmos- phere at Kearney was larger than at Philadelphia, on account of its higher tempera- ture, but the relative humidity, the degree of saturation of the air, was less at Kearney. For the same reason, the cloudiness was much less at Kearney, only 3.35, against 6.6 at Philadelphia. (See table G.) Therefore, although a little more heat was absorbed or made latent by the evaporation at Kearney, it was comparatively less than at Philadelphia. The greater clearness of the sky offered less obstruction to the rays of the sun and to their heating influence upon the earth’s surface during the day, and to the cooling by radiation during the night. ‘Thus the mean temperature and the amplitude were both increased. The increase of the temperature during the hours of the morning was gradual at Fort Kearney, because the quantity of moisture which was evaporated during that time, and therefore of heat made latent, was considerable. ~ Tt reached an amount which would justly astonish those not used to such contempla- tion. From our Table E we see that the minimum amount of vapor in 1 etibie foot of air was 6.38 grains at 5 a. m.; the maximum, 7.41 grains at 10 a.m. In order to supply the difference of 1.03 grains, or, rather, taking the expansion into consideration which has taken place during those hours, of 1.04 grains to a stratum of air of 1 foot thick over 1 square mile, over 5,000 pounds troy of water must be evaporated, and 196 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. for a stratum of 500 feet, over 2,500,000 pounds are required. If we consider that the evaporation continues with increased intensity after 10 a. m., and that the vapor diffuses itself, although in decreasing quantity, into the higher portions of the atmos- phere, we can form an adequate estimation of the heat absorbed in that process, and understand the cause of the slowness of the increase of heat during the morning. The decrease of temperature is quickest toward sunset, because then the source of the heat disappears, but during the night it is not as considerable as we might expect it to be. Although the radiation is great, its effects are balanced, in a measure, it appears, by a partial precipitation of the moisture evaporated during the day, by which a large amount of the heat made latent during the day is again rendered sensible. Besides, the currents of air, which during the day carry the heated air on high, have subsided in the evening. Thus a more rapid cooling of the earth’s surface during the night is prevented. The maximum of the temperature was reached at an earlier hour at Kearney than at Philadelphia, namely, at 24 p. m. instead of 34 p. m., perhaps, also, on account of the greater lightness and clearness of the atmosphere, but _ especially on account of the greater intensity of evaporation at Kearney, which caused a more rapid depression of the temperature after the source of the heat had passed the point of greatest intensity; in other words, after the sun had passed the meridian. The diagram No. VI of the mean daily oscillations of the temperature at Camp Floyd during the first third of November has a very marked shape. The temperature rose rapidly in the morning, because the sky was clear and the humidity exceedingly ~ small, so that only little heat was absorbed by evaporation. As soon as the maximum had been passed, at 2 p. m., it began declining rapidly, and continued thus until about an hour and a half after sunset. By this time the earth’s surface had lost the greatest portion of its surplus heat by radiation, and nearly reached the point of mean temper- ature of the season. The upward currents of air had also probably died out. From this time to sunrise of next morning the temperature appeared to decline uniformly, but at a much lower rate. The amplitude amounted to 28° Fahrenheit, while the greatest mean amplitude of any month at Philadelphia scarcely reaches 16°, and that of November is considerably less. Still larger amplitudes were obtained from the observations at the end of May, in Woodruff Valley, and in September, at Camp Floyd. The former are represented by the diagram VIII. They both give the most striking illustration of an extremely con- tinental climate. In Woodruff Valley the mean temperature was then 55° Fahrenheit against 56° at Philadelphia, and the mean amplitude 44° Fahrenheit against 15°.4 at Philadelphia. At the time of the observations at Camp Floyd, in September, the mean temperature was 64°.7, while the mean temperature of the month, according to the above tables, is 58°.4 against 57° at Philadelphia, and the amplitude amounted to 48°.3 Fahrenheit against 13°.7 at Philadelphia. The latitude of the former is 45’ south, that of the latter 16’ north of that city, while their elevation above it is about 6,000 and 4,800 feet respectively. Taking into consideration the decrease of temperature due to such considerable elevations, which may be put down as about 18° and 14° Fahrenheit, the great northward deflection of the lines of equal _ temperature, is again apparent. The following remarks especially apply to the varia- BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 197 tions in September. The temperature increased at once rapidly after sunrise, because the extremely small amount of humidity on the ground absorbed little heat by evapo- ration; and it continued increasing nearly at the same ratio until afternoon. The dry and sparsely-covered soil of the plains became intensely heated. ‘The temperature reached its naximum about 2 p. m., an hour earlier than it is reached at Philadelphia, chiefly it appears on account of the greater clearness of the atmosphere, the stronger ascending currents of air, and the greater difference of heat between the heated surface of the desert plains, and the upper regions of the air and the towering summits of the adjoining mountain ranges. The decrease of temperature then began soon after the maximum had been reached; it was strongest between 5 and 7 p. m., about the time of sunset, but continued with considerable force throughout the night. At 7 p. m. the thermometer read already 26° below the maximum, and had attained the mean tem- perature of the day. Some of the causes which co-operated to produce these results are the following: The radiation was very intense, the more so because the atmosphere was beautifully clear, and the cloudiness of the sky amounted only to 0.7 against 5.5 at Philadelphia as the mean for September: The bare parched soil, on the other hand, gave off its heat comparatively slowly, like a heated brick, and thus prevented the temperature from sinking still more rapidly, as we might expect from a comparison with some of the other diagrams; and it thus cooled gradually until it was heated again by the rising sun. Another cause for the continued strong decrease of temperature during the night was the continued evaporation, which was not interrupted during the night. On account of the scarcity of moisture, its effects were not so intense as they would have been otherwise. If the soil would have been less dry the temperature would have decreased more rapidly toward sunset, but much less during the latter part of the night, when, on the contrary, precipitation would again have taken place, and latent heat thus have become sensible. As it was, only so much could evaporate as rose gradually to the surface from the badly-supplied substrata, and while the refrigerating effects of the evaporation were not intense at any hour, they were con- tinually felt throughout the whole of them. The temperature curve of Genoa for June shows a remarkable feature. The maximum of temperature took place there at 1.30 p. m., while at Philadelphia it recurs at4 p.m. Ido not suppose that this could have been produced by the same influ-- - ences which cause the early maximum at San Francisco, although they are scarcely 160 miles apart, but I consider the peculiar situation of our camp the main cause. It was pitched on the rocky slope at the very foot of the main range of the Sierra Nevada, facing a little south of east. During the forenoon the sun burned intensely on this slope and on the sides of the mountains, but early in the afternoon its rays fell obliquely upon the ground, and it soon disappeared altogether behind the mountains, Thus an early maximum was caused, and a rapid decrease of the temperature between 5 and 6 p. m., corresponding to one or the other diagrams at the hour of sunset, which then took place only between 7 and 8 p. m. . The variations of the relative humidity are not less interesting than those of the temperature. Turning at once to the diagrams I will point out some of their most remarkable features, and compare them with the results obtained at Philadelphia, con- 198 : EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. tained in Table F. The most characteristic one is again No. VIII for Woodruff Val- ley, in the last days of May. It illustrates the extremely arid climate of the interior of Utah. The maximum of saturation at the time of sunrise, at 4.30 a. m., was 74, saturation being 100. If the soil was covered with grass instead of being nearly bare, dew, or rather frost, might then have been formed, under else favorable circumstances, by a very slightly farther decrease of temperature. This, however, was only due to the great depression of the temperature during the night to below the freezing point, not to a large quantity of vapor in the atmosphere, which actually amounted to only 1.5 grains in a cubic foot of air. With the rapid increase of temperature, the degree of saturation decreased so much that at 9 a. m. it was only 22, because the ground was extremely dry, and the little vapor which was formed was carried on high by the ascending currents of air. While the maximum of the temperature took place at 3 p. m. the humidity, there- fore, continued to decrease; at 6 p.m. it was 5.3, and the minimum seemed to take place at about 20 minutes past 6, an hour before sunset, with 4.5. From that time to sunrise of next morning the relative humidity increased nearly uniformly. The amplitude was 69.5 and the mean degree of saturation 29.1. At the same season at Philadelphia, with nearly the same mean temperature, the maximum of saturation at sunrise is about 91, the minimum, between 3 and 4 p. m., about 64, the amplitude, therefore, only 27, and the mean 78.9. A glance at these numbers is sufficient to convince anybody that agriculture can never be carried on there except by irrigation, and they prove, at the same time, that water for that purpose must be exceedingly scarce, so that only a few acres might be cultivated out of stretches of many miles in extent. ‘The plants, however, withstand such extreme changes much better than it might be expected, because the very dryness of the atmosphere protects them from being injured by the night frosts. At Camp Floyd, in the middle of September, as represented in diagram No. VI, the mean humidity was still less, viz, 21.9; but the amplitude was not as large, only 39; the maximum, at 5.30 a. m., being 42.5, and the minimum, at 3.30 p: m., being 3.5. The corresponding numbers for Philadelphia are 82.5 as mean, 94 as maximum, 67.as minimum at 3 p. m., and 27 as amplitude. We have seen that the amplitude of _temperature was even larger at Camp Floyd in September, than at Woodruff Valley in May, and the question arises, why the amplitude of humidity was so much smaller at the former place. The main difference in both diagrams is the smaller increase of humidity between sunset and sunrise. At Woodruff Valley it increased proportionally to the decreasing temperature, perhaps, because the vapor carried off by rising cur- rents of air was replaced by evaporation from a little creek near our camp, or because, perhaps, the prevailing wind brought on as much vapor as was carried off. At Camp Floyd, on the contrary, the increase of humidity did not keep pace with the decrease of the temperature. Kither more vapor was carried off by rising currents than was replaced by the cold air replacing them, or dry wind must have prevailed during the nights. ~ In August, at Camp Floyd, the saturation was more complete than in September, being 38, and in April it was still higher, equal to 57, with an amplitude of 54.5 and BAROMETRICAL AND MBTEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 199 44.0, respectively; while at Philadelphia it was smaller in April, viz, 76.1; and in August equal to September, viz, 82.5, with amplitudes of 26 and 25, respectively. In the diagram No. VII for Genoa, Carson Valley, we can again clearly recognize the influences which have affected the variations of the temperature. The minimum of only 11.4 was reached as early as 1 p.m. Then, even before the temperature had decreased, the evaporation from the adjoining widely overflowed meadows of the valley of Carson River appeared to increase the humidity of the air at our camp, perhaps carried there by regular currents of air. To the rapid falling of the ther- mometer between 5 and 7p. m. corresponds the irregular increase of the humidity, . marked by a dotted line on the diagram. As it appeared irregular, and is evidently due to the peculiar situation of the place, I have eliminated it from Table E, but it can readily be accounted for as being peculiar to the locality. During the hanks of the night the humidity increased consider ably, in accordance with the decrease of the temperature. The small mean relative humidity of only 30.6 is remarkable, be- cause the loftiest summits of the Sierra in the neighborhood were still covered with snow, the whole lower portion of Carson Valley, many miles in extent, had for weeks been overflowed, and the extensive sheet of water of Lake Bigler commences not more than 2 or 3 miles from Genoa. It indicates that Carson Valley decidedly belongs to the climatical system of the vast deserts of Carson Lake, of the sink of Humboldt River, &c., and that its peculiar climatical features are chiefly derived from them. The curve No. I of Fort Kearney, also, for June, is much more similar to that of Philadelphia. The maximum is 89.5, the minimum 68.4, while at Philadelphia the maximum is 93, the minimum 64, at 3 and 4 p. m., the amplitude therefore 29, while the mean is 78.9. We thus find, again, that fie neighborhood of Fort Kearney, although arid compared with that of the eastern coast, ae much less adapted to agri- cultural pursuits, is still moist compared with that of the desert valleys of Utah. The diagram No. III, obtained at Fort Bridger in the first days of September, is also very remarkable. The maximum, just before sunrise, about 3 a. m., was40. The saturation then declined rapidly with the increasing temperature, and was nearly sta- tionary between 9 a. m. and 2p. m., about 10; then it began to increase uniformly till sunrise of next morning. The mean degree of saturation was only 21.6, the ampli- tude 30.5. These features can again be explained by the situation of the place and the weather at the time. Fort Bridger is situated in a low meadow, well watered by several branches of a creek. Strong western winds prevailed at the time, which, com- ing from the arid regions of the Great Basin, were extremely dry. Under their influ- ence the saturation decreased very rapidly with the increase of the temperature. By 9 o’clock, however, the temperature had become sufficiently high to produce a powerful evaporation on the moist surface which balanced the desiccating influence of the wind. With the declining temperature, after 3 p. m., the evaporation becomes also less, and the dry western winds exercised a greater influence upon the saturation of the air than the declining temperature. “The slice humidity could, therefore, only increase very gradually and slowly during the night. I may remark that the difference between the mean values of the relative humidity obtained from the computation of the angle observations, in several eit differs 200 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. considerably from those computed from the mean of temperature and mean force of vapor of the same observation, the more so the larger the amplitudes of are. As those obtained in the first-stated manner are, however, more correct, I have given them in the column of means. Apparent errors may thus be explained. The same may be said in regard to the computation of the weight of vapor. The hourly changes of the quantity of vapor in the atmosphere, represented by the weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air in the lower portion of the atmosphere, has not been illustrated by diagrams, because the values given in the above table were not obtained by direct computation of each observation, but by an indirect computation from the mean values of temperature and relative humidity. If not absolutely correct on that account, still they come very near being so. In the general remarks at the head of this chapter, I have stated that in Western Europe generally the minimum quantity of vapor in the air is to be found about sunrise, that it attains its greatest maximum about 9 a. m., then decreases till toward 4 p. m., and attains a second smaller maximum toward 9 p. m., when it decreases until sunrise; that in winter, however, when the action of the sun is less intense, there is generally only one minimum, about sunrise, and one maximum, about 2 p.m. From our Table F we see that at Philadel- phia, probably on account of its situation near the coast, the changes are not-so uniform. In January there is a minimum between 7 and 8 a. m., and a maximum between 3 and 7 p. m., with the highest point probably at 6 p.m. The average amount of vapor in. 1 cubic foot of air is 2.01 grains, and the amplitude only 0.24 grains. In April there is a minimum about the time of sunrise, from 4 to 6 a. m., @ maximum from 11 a. m. to 6 p. m., after which the quantity of vapor decreases until 10 p. m., when it continues nearly unchanged to the time of the lowest minimum. The average amount is 3.43 grains; the difference between the largest and smallest weight, 0.45 grains. In June a minimum takes place at 5 a. m.; the quantity is largest, with little oscillation, from 9 a.m. till 7 p.m., with the highest point at 6 p. m., and then it decreases till morning. The mean quantity is 5.97; the amplitude 0.65 grains. In August 5 a. m. is the time of the minimum; from 11 a. m. to 6 p. m. the quantity of vapor is largest, with the highest maximum at 6 p. m., after which time it decreases till morning. The mean is 6.86 grains; the amplitude 0.83 grains. In September the minimum falls in the hour of sunrise, as in the other months, namely, between 5 and 6 a.m.. The quantity then increases rapidly till 9 a. m.; then very slowly. The maximum takes place from 4to6p.m. The mean quantity amounts to 5.63 grains; the amplitude to 0.55 grains. The variation at Philadelphia, at least in the above-named months, which alone I have examined, show, therefore, all one decided minimum about and soon after sun- rise, and one maximum, of long duration, generally between the hours of 9 a. m. and 7 p.m., which has its highest, but not sharply-marked point, about 6 p.m. Instead of a second maximum at 9 p. m., we find about that hour rather indications of a second minimum. Our values in Table E, from the central portion of the continent, are altogether different; they prove more than anything else the absolute difference of climate there, and its extremely arid and continental character. In Woodruff Valley, at the end of May, and in Camp Floyd, in August and September, we have the strongly-marked - BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 201 minimum between 4 and 7 p. m., and the equally-marked maximum between 8 and 9 a.m., nearly the reverse of what we have found for Philadelphia, At the same time the average amount of humidity has been very small, and the difference between the - maximum and minimum of the day has been from two to three times as large as at Philadelphia. All the features are more distinctly marked than in less extreme climates. In Woodruff Valley, at the end of May, the sun rises about 4.30 o'clock. The first effect of the rapid increase of the temperature was expansion of the air and vapor, and consequently a slight’ depression of the weight of vapor in each cubic foot of the expanded air. This depression, although scarcely perceptible, corresponds to the sunrise minimum at Philadelphia, or, rather, it depended upon thé same agencies which cause the extension of that minimum beyond the hour of sunrise. It was pro- longed somewhat by the upward movement of the warmed air and the vapor contained ii it, which began soon after sunrise, and by the circumstance that the little humidity which had accumulated during the night in the soil was rapidly decreasing. Still the evaporation soon became so vigorous that it gained upon the other agencies, and at 8 a. m. the maximum was reached, which, however, was not much above the point which the quantity of vapor had attained at sunrise, just before the depression had taken place. Then, however, most of the available moisture had been consumed, as may be ‘seen from the corresponding diagram of the relative humidity; and, therefore, the increasing expansion of the air and the rising currents gained “upon the ‘evaporation, and the quantity of vapor in each cubic foot of air in the lower stratum of the atmos- phere was diminished gradually until 7 p.m., when it had reached the exceedingly low amount of 0.35 grains, while the air would have required at that time over 7 grains for its saturation with vapor. This was shortly before sunset, at the time when under ordinary circumstances there ought to have been a maximun. The temperature now sank more and more, while a limited evaporation continued, and both causes combined effected a gradual increase of the quantity of vapor, which continued until sunrise. The average amount in one cubic foot was only 1.08 grains, and the difference between the largest and smallest amount 1.26 grains troy. At Camp Floyd, in September, the maximum took place at 9 a. m., the minimum, chiefly on account of the earlier setting of the sun, already at 4 p. m., with only 0.45 grains of vapor in a cubic foot of air. The increase lasted then to midnight, when no further change took place until after sunrise at 6 a. m., when the increase commenced again and lasted until the maximum was reached. The stability during the night, notwithstanding the continued decrease of the temperature, must be attributed to the same agencies which have affected the relative humidity, and which I have already mentioned in that connection, namely, rising currents of air on a dry wind from the neighboring deserts. Winds exercise the greatest influence upon the evaporation and conditions of moisture. In general, a wind increases the evaporation considerably, the more so when it happens to be warm and dry. If it is warm and charged with moist- ure, it either increases the evaporation little or not at all, and if the station is much colder, the moisture of the wind may even be precipitated. A cold wind does not increase the evaporation so much, especially if it is itself charged with moisture, and — it can only create precipitation by cooling the air at the station below the point of sat- 26 BU 202 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. uration before it has carried off the surplus moisture of the air from that point; there- fore the common saying that a wind is too cold to bring on rain. ‘The average amount of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air at Camp Floyd, in September, was 1.16 grains, and the amplitude 1.44 grains. , At Camp Floyd, in August, the conditions were similar. The maximum took place from 8 to 9 a. m.; then followed a gradual decrease till 6 a. m., when the humid- ity increased again steadily, as in Woodruff Valley, to the time of the maximum at 9 a.m. Only a slight check was felt at the time of sunrise, but no perceptible depres- sion. The average quantity was 2.59 grains, the amplitude 1.72 grains—more than I have observed at any other point. At Camp Floyd, in April, the whole conditions were different, as I have stated before, in connection with Table C; and, therefore, the variations were also entirely different. ‘There was a sunrise minimum at 5 a. m., a maximum at 10 a. m., a mini- mum at 7 p. m., as low as the first one, and a second but lower maximum at 11 p. m. These variations are unlike those at Philadelphia, but similar to those observed in Western Europe. The average amount of vapor was 1.68 grains, the amplitude only 0.49 grains. : ; The oscillations at Fort Kearney in June were somewhat similar, but the average amount of moisture there was 6.75 grains, much more than I have observed in any month in Utah, and even more than at Philadelphia in June, with, however, a lower mean temperature, and, consequently, more complete saturation at the latter place. The amplitude amounted to 1.10, while at Philadelphia only to 0.65 grains. The oscillations at Fort Laramie in the first days of August were not so charac- teristic, but more influenced by contending agencies. Those at Genoa in June are, of course, more similar to the other from Utah, but they exhibit some peculiarities. The maximum took place at 9 a. m., but the minimum as early as 1 p. m., when the same causes mentioned in connection with the relative humidity and the declining temperature caused an increase of the quantity of vapor, which culminated at 4 p: m. The rapid decrease of temperature caused a second minimum at 8 p. m., not quite as low as the first one. The upward currents of air had then subsided, while the evapor- ation continued in the damp valley. The humidity, therefore, increased again, suffered a slight check shortly after sunrise, the same as at Woodruff Valley, when, as there, it soon continued increasing to the maximum. The mean amount was 2.67 grains, the difference between the largest and smallest quantity 1.62 grains. The hourly variations of the force of vapor and its absolute quantity are not less abnormal in the region covered by our explorations; but, as they depend upon the weight of vapor and the degree of temperature, and indirectly upon the relative humidity, and are determined by their relative quantity and changes, I may be shorter in my remarks. - Table F shows that at Philadelphia one minimum and one maximum takes place every day, the former about the time of sunrise, when the temperature is lowest and the quantity of vapor smallest, the latter in the afternoon, when the temperature is highest and the quantity of vapor largest, while the relative humidity is not too low. In January the minimum takes place between 6 and 8 a. m., and the maximum lasts, BAR OMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 203 with little changes, from 2 to 7 p.m. The mean force is then 0.170 inches, and the amplitude 0.022 inches. In April, the minimum takes place between 4 and 6 a. m., the maximum lasts from 1 to 3 p. m.; then, however, the decrease is only very slow for several hours. At 11 p.m. there is a slight indication of a second minimum. The mean force is 0.300 inches, the amplitude 0.048 inches. _ In June, the minimum takes place from 4 to 5 a. m., the maximum at 2 p. m., but the pressure is high from before noon till 7 p.m. The mean force is 0.540 inches, the amplitude 0.074 inches. ; In August, the minimum takes place at 5 a. m., the maximum lasts from 2 to 6 p. m., or we might even say from 11 to 6; the mean force is 0.625 inches, and the ampli- tude 0.084 inches. In September the minimum lasts from 4 to 6 a. m., the maximum from 5 to 6 p. m., but the pressure is high from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The mean force is 0.507 inches, and the amplitude 0.063. The means of a single month, however, do not show such uniform results. A glance at the diagrams illustrating the observations at the Girard College, Philadelphia, as published by order of Congress, shows that the pressure varies much in the same month of different years. We frequently find two maxima and two minima as well in winter as in summer. : The most abnormal of our diagrams is again that for Woodruff Valley at the end of May, No. VIII. It exhibits exactly the reverse of the Philadelphia variations. The maximum then took place at sunrise, and the minimum in the aftefnoon. The cause of this peculiarity will be readily understood. At sunrise the quantity of vapor was not much below its maximum, and the relative humidity so decidedly at its maximum that the great depression of the temperature could not counteract those combined in- fluences. The relative humidity then declined so rapidly that its influence gained upon that of the increasing temperature, and the force of the vapor gradually declined. By noon the temperature had nearly reached its maximum, and therefore the still de- creasing quantity of vapor and relative humidity caused a rapid diminution of the pres- sure, which lasted till near sunset, when it had attained the exceedingly low figures of 0.038 inches. The rapidly increasing relative humidity then raised it, notwithstanding the continued decrease of the temperature, till it reached the maximum at sunrise. The mean force was 0.093, only the fifth part of what it is at that season at Philadelphia, and the amplitude reached the large figure of 0.091 inches. At Camp Floyd in September, as illustrated by diagram No. VI, the decrease of the relative humidity was slower in the morning; therefore the influence of the tem- perature gained upon it, and a divided maximum took place at 9 a. m., upon which the decrease of the force became very rapid until it reached its minimum, about 4 p. m.; then, with the increasing relative humidity, it increased first faster then less till near midnight, when the influence of the decreasing temperature became as strong as that of the increasing relative humidity, and the force remained unchanged till sunrise. The mean force was very low, only 0.103 inch, the amplitude 1.29 inches. The August curve at Camp Floyd is similar, but continues increasing, although less during the night. It shows, however, a bend after sunset in consequence of the 204 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. very rapid sinking of the temperature at that hour. The mean force, although small, if compared to Philadelphia, was considerably larger, 0.238 inch, and the amplitude was larger than I have observed it anywhere else, 0.157 inch. In April, at Camp Floyd, I found a sunrise minimum, as at Philadelphia, but a forenoon maximum and. an afternoon minimum, as in August at-Camp Floyd. The amplitude reached only 0.042 inch. Similar features are presented by the variations at Fort Kearney in June, but the amplitude there was larger, 0.088 inch, and the mean force much higher. In the Laramie curve the evening maximum, which had been small at Kearney, surpasses even the forenoon maximum. The Genoa curve is similar to the August curve of Camp Floyd; but on account of the peculiar local cir- cumstances mentioned above, it has besides the maximum at 9 a. m., a second, although much lower, maximum in the afternoon about 4 p- m., and consequently also two minima, the lowest at 1 p. m., and a smaller one between 9 and 10 p.m. The diagram for Fort Bridger, for the first days of September, No. IH, is peculiar. As far as I can judge from the limited number of observations, there was a maximum at sunrise, for the same reason as in Woodruff Valley, then, on account of the rapidly diminishing relative humidity, a minimum at 9 a. m.. By that time the humidity had become so low that it could not decrease much more, and the still increasing tempera- ture created a maximum at 12 m.; at 3 p. m., the temperature and force of vapor were lower; at 6 the temperature had fallen considerably, but the relative humidity had increased comparatively more, and caused a third maximum, even a little higher than the two others, while later the force of vapor became again less, because the tempera- ture became rapidly less. 7 In order to give a better comparison of the absolute values of the force of vapor, relative humidity, &c., I have arranged the following table, G. It contains the monthly means obtained at the Greenwich observatory, England, as the average of the seventeen years from 1841 to 1857; also the summary of the monthly means obtained at the observatory of the Girard College, Philadelphia, from 1840 to 1845, compiled from the records published by Professor Bache, by order of Congress; and besides the values obtained on our exploration, with the addition of a few means of temperature observed at Camp Floyd by Assistant Surgeons Williams and Moore, United States Army. Those data which have been deduced only from a short series of observations, and are repeated here from Table E, have been marked with letter. For particulars in regard to them I refer to the explanatory remarks to Tables C and D. Those marked a, are from the hourly observations in April at Camp Floyd; 6, from the observations in August at Camp Floyd; c, from those in September at the same station; d, from Woodruff Val- ley in the last days of May and the first ones of J une; ¢, from Genoa, Carson Valley, in June; f, from Fort Kearney, in June; and g, from Fort Laramie, in the last days of July and the first ones of August. : 4 BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 205 G.—Comparative table of monthly means of temperature, force of vapor, relative humidity, &e. | | Bae pcs | | § ¥ is | hae | ~ a} “4 Station. E 5S | a aad pie = 5 3 = i ae i M4 E > | 8 Ea oo 4 > g | a439 a S. = I - 5 é g | | & SRO RES oe PRR ae 8 eee ee a = pen Piiaaben, Seeeiinie Mean. tem- {| Greenwich, England ../ 38.1 325 | 41.6 | ans | seo | sez lou7 | ora | seo jaan jane 4005 | 49.2 peratins, ae: Philedeiphis, Fs - joan $2.3) 28 | 423 | 50.6 | 389 | $88 | 728 | 7.5 64.1 | 51.3 | 40.7 | 326 | 51.6 S Fab. p Floyd, Utah..... Let 1.9 | 43, 4. 74.7 | 75.0 | 71 | 5h4 | 50.7 | 340 | 20 | 47.0 9 rica Sig iis ae (@42.0 55.0 |e76.3 |...----/b69.5 | e647 ubeeee Oe Mad Aged Lee oo Lele es TT Le ee OA la tees ee ee Foree of va- (| Greenwich, England ..| 0. said 0. 203) 0. 16! . 250; 0.300) 6.369) 0. 417] 0. 426) 0,383) 0,310) 0. 260 0, 297 sag inches, || Philadelphia, Pa ...-.-. 0.173 0.173) 0.224 . 293) 0.384) 0, 0.611) 0, 6 0.4 0.312 0.218 0,173) 0.352 nglish, of) | Camp Floyd, Utah. .... 0.093, 0.147) 0. 130 . 154) dO. 093) e0. 248)....... 60. TIS oO. TOG cs [ecw es feccenas *0. 150 mereury. El eo regres eires j | @0, 155) .....--. J 0, 623)....... 9 0, 344 Sudics ba: Greenwich, England ..| 89. | 86. | 8% 79. 76, 74, | 76. 78, sl | 86 | 8. | 8 | 81 midity. antn- Philadelphia, Pa .....-. 85.5 | 83.7 | 78.0 76. 75. 6 78.0 | 76,8 81, 22.0 | 796 | 80.4 | 848 | 802 micaty,saty, || Camp Floyd, Utah.... | 835 | 84.5 | 71.3 | 517 |€29.1 |¢30.6 |......, 638.0 | ¢2L.9 154 sridiccnennl | RRS Seg ee ele Tu... er 2S ea PT el een ker Bes Oe ee Weight of va- { Greenwich, England ..| 2.4 2.4 25 L 3.4 4.1 4.6 4 4.2 2.5 2.9 2.6 3.4 porin lcubic } | Philadelphia, Pa ....-. 2.06 | 206) 261 3. 35 4. 30 6.02) 6.69 6. 5.49} 3.56] 255) 206) 3.96 foot of air, )| Camp Floyd, Utah. .-.. 1.12; 1.74; 1.53 7 | 41.08 | e267 |....... 62,59 | ¢1,16 grains troy. (|..-.-..--- feuds thy eck net} Ce Oe buee nee: Dg eo Be g3. Clondiness of Philadelphia, Pa .....- 6.8 60 7.0 6.4 6.6 5.7 6. 5.5 5.3 6.1 6.5 6.2 sky, the Camp Floyd, Utah..... 4.6 6.2 5.7 be SUS Sle fies sc bo, 0.7 whale a 10. )[toeess"=ere" | 4528 1c ra ey ees g 4. eran npr ee i | * Estimated. + Estimated at. This table does not require any further explanation. I will only state that the weight of vapor for January, February, March, and April, at Camp Floyd has been computed from the mean temperature, and the mean forces of vapor of these months, which I found to give, generally, more accurate results than if the mean relative humidity was directly introduced into the calculation. These means, for Camp Floyd, were deduced from three observations each day, at 7 a. m., 2 p.m., and 9 p.m. The means for these single hours were— In January, force of vapor, 7 a. m., 0.062; 2 p. m., 0.137; 9 p.m, 0.079; rela- tive humidity, 7 a. m., 92.0; 2 p. m., 72.0; 9 p.m. 86.4. In February, force of vapor, 7 a. m., 0.117; 2 p. m., 0.189; 9 p. m., 0.135; rela- tive humidity, 7 a. m., 89.3; 2 p.m. 76.6; 9 p. m., 87.6. In March, force of vapor, 7 a. m., 0.114; 2 p. m., 0.160; 9 p. m., 0.118; relative humidity, 7 a. m., 78.3; 2 p.m. 614; 9 p.m. 74.3. During these three months the mountains near Camp Floyd were heavily covered with-snow, while in the valley the snow was a few inches deep in January, less in February, and disappeared in March. In April the snow disappeared from the lower mountains, but especially the eastern and northern slopes of the higher mountains, and.the principal summits were still covered. In January from 9 to 10 inches 9f snow (not water) fell at Camp Floyd. In February it began 12 times to snow or rain, but the aggregate amount was very small; in March it snowed 10 times, once with a little -yain, but the whole amount was again quite small; in April snow fell at 10 different times and rain at 3, but the whole amount of the precipitation did probably not reach half an inch of water. EXTREMES OF TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY, ETC. _ After having, in the preceding paragraphs, treated of the values of the daily and monthly changes of temperature, moisture, and barometric pressure, which although extreme if compared with those of the same latitudes in the Eastern States, are the mean values and the rule in the localities where they have been observed, I will close these pages with the enumeration of some of the extreme changes and abnormal con- 206 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ditions recorded on this exploration. The following are actually recorded differences of temperature between the warmest and coldest time of the day, and they would, in many instances, be considerably larger, if the maximum and minimum temperatures had been observed. As we generally staid in a camp from afternoon till morning the ampli- tudes are mostly given between the high temperature of the afternoon and the low one of next morning, which are apt to give a little larger amplitude than the maximum and minimum of the same day would exhibit. We have observed as far east as Little Blue River, in Southeastern Nebraska, October 7th, 3 p- m., 75°; October Sth, 5.45 a. m., 34°; difference, 41° Fahrenheit. Platte River, below Fort Laramie, September 20th, 3 p- m., 85°; September 21st, 5.15 a. m., 36°; difference, 49° Fahrenheit. 3 Near the Red Buttes, August 15th, 3.15 p. m., 82°; August 16th, 4.45 a. m., 37°: difference, 45° Fahrenheit. Upper Sweetwater River, September 9th, 3 p. m., 70°.8; September 10th, 5.45 a. m., 26°.5; difference, 43°.8 Fahrenheit. Green River, August 36th, 3 p.m., 83°; August 31st, 5.30 a: m., 39°; difference, 44° Fahrenheit. : “Black Fork, September 1st, 4 p. m., 79°; September 2d, 5.30 a. m., 35°; differ- ence, 44° Fahrenheit. Bear River, September 26th, 3 p. m., 56°; September 27th, 6 a. m.,11°.5; differ- ~ence, 44°.5 Fahrenheit. Echo Cation, September 10th, 6 a. m., 25°.5; 1.15 p- m., 75°; difference, 49°.5 Fahrenheit. : West of Weber River, September 11th, 4 p. m., 80°.5% September 12th, 5 a. m., 32°.5; difference, 48° Fahrenheit. : Timpanogos Canon, September 20th, 3.30 p. m., 83°.5; September 21st, 6 a. m., 35°.5; difference, 48° Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, September 17th, 6 a.m., 40°; 12m., 91°; difference, 51° Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, January 3d, 7 a. m., 0°.5; 2 p.m., 31°; difference, 31°.5 Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, January 18th, 7 am., 5°.3; 2 p. m., 41°.7; difference, 36°.4 Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, April 8th, 6 a. m., 32°.7; 12 m., 71°; difference, 38°.3 Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, April 22d, 5.25 a. m., 20°; 3.15 p. m., 73°38; difference, 53°.3 - Fahrenheit. Salt Lake Desert, August Ist, 4.30 p. m., 102°; August 2d, 4.30 a. m., 56°; differ- ence, 46° Fahrenheit. Reese River, May 28th, 3 p. m., 76°; May 29th, 4.50 a. m., 22°: difference, 54° F ahrenheit. | Over 40° difference was frequently observed in Woodruff Valley, the deserts near Carson Lake, and in other valleys of the Great Basin. _ As the relative humidity was frequently small, the difference between the reading of the dry and wet bulb thermometers was frequently considerable. We-must, how- ever, bear in mind that this difference is no direct measure of the relative humidity. The following are some of the extreme values observed during the survey : _ Fort Kearney, October 3d, 3 p. m., dry bulb, 87°.5; wet bulb, 58°.7; difference, 28°.8 Fahrenheit. . : BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 207 Independence Rock, (Sweetwater River,) August 16th, 3 p.m. 91° and 59°.3; difference, 31°.7 Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, September 17th, 3 p. m., 90° and 54°; difference, 36° Fahrenheit. Prince’s Creek, Utah, August 2d, 3 p. m., 87°.5 and 56°; difference, 31°.5 Fahren- heit. In that vicinity, and about that time, the difference reached frequently 30°. At Genoa, Carson Valley, June 16th, 88°.5 and 56°; difference, 32°.5; and for several hours, 30 or 31°. At the same place, June 17th, 2 p. m., 92° and 58°.5; difference, 33°.5; and for several hours, 32°. On June 18th, 1 p. m., 94° and 59°; difference, 35°. June 19th, 12 m., 90° and 56°; difference, 34°; and June 20th, 3 p. m., 101°.5 and 66°; difference, 35°.5 Fahrenheit. The force of vapor is subject to rapid changes by a change of the wind, and from other apparently small causes, independent of the regular daily variations. We find a change recorded on Big Sandy Creek, near Green River, August 27th, from 6.20 : p.m. to 9 p.m., from 0.176 to 0.415; difference, 0.209 inch; and at Genoa, June 16th, from 12 m. to 1 p. m., from 0.204 to 0.088; difference, 0.116 inch in 1 hour, merely by a change of the wind, with a perfectly clear sky; and at the same place, on June 19th, from 11 a. m. to 12 m., from 0.252 to 0.067; difference, 0.185 inch in 1 hour. Some of the lowest values of force of vapor were deduced from observations at the following points: Copperas Springs, near Fort Bridger, September 27th, to 6 p- m., 0.000; Salt Lake Desert, May 8th, 9 p. m., 0.000; Pleasant Valley, Utah, May 9th, 3 p. m., 0.028; Antelope Valley, May 10th, 12 m., 0.027; Camp Floyd, April 21st, 5 p. m., 0.008; Camp Floyd, September 17th, 3 p. m., 0.014; Camp Floyd, January 12th, 7 a. m., 0.025, wheri the air was saturated with moisture on account of the low temperature; also, January 11th, 7. m., 0.026 ; January 10th, 9 p. m., 0.026; Fort Bridger, September 4th, 3.30 p. m., 0.027; Fort Bridger, September 29th, 10 a. m., 0.022 ; Woodruff Valley, May 31st, 6 p. m., 0.015. Extremely small values of saturation, or relative humidity, are the following : Cop- peras Springs, near Fort Bridger, September 27th, 6 p. m., 0; Salt Lake Desert, May 8th, 9 p. m., 0; and at neighboring points, on successive days, 4 and 7; Fort Bridger, September 4th, 3.30 p. m., 3; Fort Bridger, September 29th, 10 a. m., 3; Camp Floyd, April 21st, 5 p. m., 2; April 23d, 6 p. m. and 8 p. m., 11; Camp Floyd, August 8th, 4 p.m., 9; Prince’s Creek, August 2d, 3 p. m. and 6 p. m, 8; Woodruff Valley, May 30th and 31st, 6 p.m., 3; June Ist, 3 p. m., 3; Alkali Wells, June Ath, 6 p.m., 7; Walker River, June 8th, 3 p. m., 7; Genoa, June 19th, 12 m., 5; Little Sandy Creek, near South Pass, August 26th, 3 p. m., 8; and as far east as Fort Kearney, October 3d, 3 p. m., 10.5. _ It was astonishing to see how little influence, sometimes, rain had on the humidity of the atmosphere, because it was found in the upper regions while the lower atmos- phere was dry, and it did not extend far. At Plympton Springs, in the Salt Lake Desert, July 23d, between 3 and 4 p. m., 0.30 inch of rain fell, during a thunder- storm, with hail; our camp was flooded, and after 6.some more rain fell. Still the relative humidity, which at 3 p. m. was 38, at 6 p.m. had only increased to 50. Again, in White Valley, on J uly 25th, a thunder-storm, with, however, only little rain, was recorded as lasting from 4 to 6 p. m.; the relative humidity at 4 p. m. was 25; at 6 p: m., 28, ae es ee EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX .F. tabi OF DISTANCES. ALTITUDES, AND GRADES. 27 BU => APPT N Dix TABLE OF DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, AND GRADES. 2 i¢ | $3 | a81¥ sq | eg | 28 | sé | &, / s 22 | Se EI = Names of places. ea 23 es o Aq | $2 | 2" | 38 | Se | 3" 2 ee ete Sema see es eee | 65 | & q | AS 1S Fort Bridger i 6, € Summit between Fort Bridger and Muddy Creek 10. se pee 9 93.1 Madly CROGK 2 on soo ce tas ase we ge err ene ent ae eee ate 2 13.2] 6,$ 6 26: rare * between Muddy Creek and Sulphur Creek .2| 20.4] Qf 1, 0 14 Sulphur daa ne a ec ie anny ete ee rencctwnss sbevnssesees sausseauenyers 5. 5.4) 7,4 6 122 11. 36. ¢ 7,4 ) jatnsatt pekwoue Bear River and White Clay Creek ed : 41. 7% 3 r Camp, 17 miles from the mouth of White Clay Creek 12. OT 1,2 rT —_ of White Clay Creek 17. 70. : 9 mp 0) = Weber, 2.6 miles from junction of White Clay Creek ..-..-------.----------+ -+-++------ , : : ! Laieeies : ; ‘ 1 Seumid on Parley’s we road, between Weber River and Silver Creek 12. ‘i : 1, 2 : Silver Creek ..-- is ‘ 4 4 Summit between Silver C k and Round Prairie niga < & 5 : Dt ; n irie 102. a 1,1 1 Near Warm Spring ; mp : - ' 1 } . dg . 3 3 4 Bridge over Timpanogos ‘ .. 4 3i 3 Low ene southeast of ane near Lehi 11.5 i 3 2 Bridge over the Jordan Rive’ 4 4, mp Floyd --... 14. 4, 32 2 Camp apie" saewec pepeewivess 1.5 i we 37 8’ Camp No. Msatow aseawnehen 13.7 s 5, 2 General Johnston 8 ns Pass Ga fet range (summit) ine 5 . 6, 1, 032 1 Camp No. 2, w Guyot range ....-------. ---++--+----- : ; x ‘ 42 52 In Skull Valley. 9. 4 4, 96 10: Camp No. 3, Simpson! 8 ‘entice pase of Mount Champli : . 4 : In Sut Lake Dese 3 9} 4, 48 5. Short-Cut Pass rater 12% 221 5. 97 8 Camp No. 4, western slope, TI , Z < 222. 5, 005 34 19 aot of BIODE. «6.52 Sess 12. 235 4, 298 70 5 Camp No. 5, Fish Spring, — Lake Desert 12. 248. 4, 289 ie: Camp No. 6, in Salt Lake 29. 278. 4, 593 3¢ 2 Camp No. 7, Sulphur S ‘aig . € 280. 4, 633. 40 East summit of Tots-arr range 10.0 | 290. 6,903 | 2° 207 q Cc 0. 8, Pleasant Valley . , 294. 6, 150 | 2 West summit oho Tots-arr range C i. 302. 7, 15E 4, 117 Western foot of br a ‘ 304. 6, 675 > Ridge east of Antelope Valley 4} 305. . 995 228 Camp No.9 -2| 306. , 658 2 In Antelope Valley : 3 | BIL , 690 182 Ridge between Antelope Valley and Spring Valley 10. 322. , 560 Camp No. 10, Spring Valley .0 | 325. , 133 : 1 Un-go-we ountains (summit) .--.---.--------- 334, poe 16-13 1 Camp No. 11, west slope of Un-go-we- -ah Mountains . 336. , 600 § 4 ks 343. 5, 816 iy 1 Camp No. 12, mouth. of Egan Cafion \. 350. 5, 986 95. Mon-tim range (summit) ...---.------- 2] 355.2) 7,135 2 Jos oe auoue .1| 358.3 | 7,135 aS Foot of Mon-tim range in Butte Valley 4 361. 6, 148 oi 340 Camp No 13, Butte Ma . 368.0 | 6,523 3 Ridge between Butte V: y and Long Valley : 369.8 | 6,670; 1 ; In Long Valle: "4, 374.5 | 6,195 475; 101 . Camp No. 14, near summit of Too-muntz Mountains z : 380.0 | 7, 190 995 | 1 Eg wi Bi mat (summit) . . 380.7 | 7, 283 : 1 bag Bib erat : 385.6 | 6,034; 1,2 2 Coa 0. 15, Ruby V Bbw! § 3.6 | 389.2) 5,953 | = ‘3 Pass (summit). -...----- . 394.9] 6,580; 627) 110 pil Valle: ‘of South Fork 0 of Humboldt is 403.5 | 5,640 940; 109 . Cauip Me. 16 canteen: e-ah-bah Mountains : 3} 4068; goss} 38| 118 Saeuis Se reek tak oes eects snele 4.0| 410.8; 7,300) 1,272) 318 Camp No. 17, Leet or ihe Valley, west foot of We-ah-bah Mountains. --.----.-.---------------- - . 413.9} 6,018; 1,282) 413 ab-bun-nu- u-pe V: 1.0) 417.9) 5,660 358 90 Canlp No. 18, Pah-hun-nu-pe Valley : : 9.3 | 427.2) 5, 692 aS Cooper Ran a; (mae BT) 435.9) 6,757) 1,065) 122 Camp No. 19; Ko- ah Vatioy, She- 62! 4421! 6,414 343) «(55 Se ~ ca, Cample7 % 2 Ara Dodgeladley aaa LUBE es % Camp VO Smiter: Moodruty Valley” * reaz Pass Steve Nevddea * Li 3 Hees %e: = Bea 3 Hess a se LetSbay! lS Camp W 36 Pleasant Grove BH te Retraad ot 4 | ie 4 B % x g4 ¥ } tL 4 % ; ‘ nos . Peerre-ah or Big Mes. iS 4 azes Some LA2 £4 on FA) i. ‘4 y Su 2 y g4 Bs 80 a al ql ; RS cs & \ S % “tL css 7 tS & 1 a] % at U__s008 OEE 3 l : e a (> a i 61a Fe, MW eI 3 i — ae 3 swf ‘ y s 4 Q flan wer @ \ ean z CompW19 % en25 S| esr Q Ew ms 8] eso rN. 4 g Ay y z Camp VE FS? af Canph TBS eI A yan | ‘d EN ome AL cen ie « . e Cech bah Kenge SN : o Sct se, - tm—Fe p iateafeer er, re i peed So * k fe sy * % Cig VTS YL cios “irl #220. oa iF So S x Jen ¥ Sve Re 3 ea cmne Leip 7 Z Be Na SL eus 4 i y = So teal 5986. E Comp VL, GX _oVFqet gone | | L Ss /- Camp lloyd Coder Vattey im Mes, pp. g Camp¥%0 ig 5 \ panama (tac Si & he ee 8 Namen > BS Wots ay ange S| a eee 4 Sulphur springs 5 E | eH q CorpI 5 lish prings Sh , ton | Bl NL TTC + . aT all § Se Be *S] ; s — Hey i : ¥ Cony I" Simpson springs Se — “a c — : Camp W°35 Maactow Cr | y SEs Be = i oa a S : H 7 [mS | N : H : ving Mond Fass Oquirrh lange s 212 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX F.—Table of distances, altitudes, and grades—Continued. a ae > 2 es oe = ee 18 | 2¢ oes - | ae g@ om wg = £2 pa os ad Names of places. bB| 23 gs a; | “#8 BS [as | =e | gs | $2 og aa 53 Se S a2/6& |S* | ae | sé ne <4 Camp No. 20, Ko-bah Valley 5 | 459. ; 4 Ridge in Ko-bah Valley . 5) 463. : 697 1 Camp No. 21, W: Creel . 466. € ; g In Ko-bah Valley 3.8 | 470. £ 385 | Camp No. 22, east of Pah g 9.9 *- 163 | Pah-rea range (su nate 4. eA | In Won-a-ho-no-pe Seca 7. 4 ; eee 1 Camp No. 23, montis slope of Pe-er-re-ah Mountains 5 f : 4 77.5 Camp No, 24 rn slope of Pe-er-re-ah Mountains 4, 5 a 4 Poor: re-ah Sioantilie (summit) A ; 7 1 In Reese gps Valle: E 4 i: is 2 sp ed 0. 25, on Reese | . 5 Seevian . eese 1} ives Valley and Woodruff Valley | 13. : 9 ¢ oodruff Valley .....- i ; 4 , ( 4 2 Comp = 26, Smit rs = Woodrutf Valley . 0. 27, atnam C : 10. ae: a . os) Sevday-e e or Lookout Arete (summit) = = 1, 4 b) p No. = oe pete er west slope of Se-day-e Mountains t % $ i 3 went a Vee eee rene 14. 7 pe ak +4 1 Rid east scot Dry Fat Va Valley x 4) 4 p In Dry Fla Valley 1.2} 5806] 4 rene Dry Flat Valley and Alkali Valley ; a 4, 4 3 Ikali Valle i . 3, 5 317 Sean No. 30, ali Valley. ; 3 3 Camp No. 31, on Carson Lake 16. 3, 3. 7 Ridge between Carson Lake and Walker's River 24. 2 4; 7 : Camp No. 32, on Walker’s River -.......- 0 B 4, 5 va Camp No. 33, on Walker's River 1 4, 1 8 Camp No. 34, on Walker's River ‘ 4, 6 Divide between Carson Riv er peer Walkes Riv OR oy ciate oni s as Soke ewes twee sees dee ieee ss 6. 4, 4 oD Ridge above Camp Ni 9. 4, ¢ 3 32 Camp No. 35, on Carson Riv er 5 4, 2 67 Camp No. 36, Pleasant Grove, on Carson River : 4, ES eh cee eek SS he i oak a SA DEUS WEE BE RUOE NSC HES i Met NS uUECEE EWE ES bebe BES ence bec é B. 4 Camp No. 37, Carson City, Eagle Valley ¥i. é 4, 2 1 ~eekare 13, 718. 4, 2 1 Dageti's Pass, of the ronte about 3 miles from Genoa SOs: 7, Ie $58 Foc Bridge o ver west branch of Carson River 16. 735.6 | 5,698 8 52 Hope Valle 21 740.8 | 6,880) 1,182) 227 "s Pass CURCRIIG so Se he ob cbc odin Dae a ea Cee as ee eo ow ES hes ba MG bode cee eas § 743. 0 7, 505 6 284 In Take Valle 5 747.6 | 6,260) 1,2 270 station in Lake bag HORE ese ( 748.1) 6,311 102 J ’s Pass, in rte evada (summit) 2, 750.1} °F, 222 9 455 Ps RETURN ROUTE. Ba | ¢ 3 au i ¥ re ao ° 2d ss 2 £2 | 34 | s% | e2 | “sg # eS = ae of os Names of places. ga sa as o. coe | Ee a5 =e FS o z . — o 23 |2 | 22/82 | 2 nas | & + AS | s eslrbtaon ida cdgabat veecsecswenab sess 6" 32.2c8200i5%; 0 oO | 4,924} 0 0 cme amp No. 2, Eagie Vi 13. 13.5} 4,587 237 17 a sees ee er 11. 25.0 | 4,360 207 19 3, on Carson River. ; 30.2 | 4,300 60 11. Comp Ne. t on Carson “ i. 48.0) 4,154] 146 8 River and Carson Lake 13. 61.2} 4,460 306 23 Camp No. 5, on Carson Lake 11. 73.0| 3,840| 620) 52 amp No, 6, on Carson Lake 2. = Q 3 40 0 0 rid Ueesral Rags Flat Valley and Alkali Valley es sae ; 4, vce c we in Dry Flat Valle ee 1.2] 105.1) 4,090; 410/| 341 east of Dry Flat Valley 10.2| 115.3| 4,460} 370| 36 Poth Bag of Se-day-e Mountains. a8} 1241] 4,665 205 23 amp No. 7. .....- ag se ene ts i 0. 134, 5, __ Ridge between Camp No. 7 and Dodge Valley. ~ a % rg = a _ Camp No. 8, Edward Creek, Dodge Valley --... 82) 145.7) 5,486) 414] 50 Snare 9, western ab e mnaga -6 Mountains LE ee 3 152.7] 7,022] 1,536 219 2 ne a wens 0.6| 153.3] 7,260} 938] 396 7.9| 161.2| 6,070} 1,190) 150 ¥. 169.1 | 6,000 70 9 2 171,2 | 6,483 483 230 251 3%: 5, 965 518 QT 8&3} 1820} 5,630 ae: 6. 188.5 5,530 1 15 4.7| 193.2| 7,104! 1,574| 335 5.3] 198.5) 6,285 819 154 5.0} 203.5} 5,811 474 95 -- : 4. 208.3; 5,543 51 Sn a a ae ie PER ge age ge EN nae a eee Base of Thomas's range E Summit east of Thomas’s range.. : ; Pa the VAMOS. aw ; =. Camp N . 8 BS: 722 5 ae. i] ~ oe Camp No: is “oe ian Spri y : Summi te tween eek and Porter’s Valley : In Porter’s Valley tr etnks aj Summit rides Porter 8 Valley and B pring i n 3 is 2 a S bat | ae ep Be, Q 8 ag o 3 2 ® em Summit Wetween Mendis Creek and Rush Valley ’ = mH te tet tt Ll bt ODD DD oe In Rush Va mp wo. © CD 0D wt ot ¢ De ee eae, ee ee ee age en ae naam ae a ase Te Tal 99 B 2 SIDE RECONNAISSANCES. 32 Names of places. Salt ace City, Upper street, near Brigham Young's Salt Gak@ 3.0.0) a 0i< 225-5. stg ri in Ronna Pra mile bel Torbert Cafion : “ Mouth of ‘Goal Creek Hat 3 era ioe Depot camp ..-..-..---- ‘oal Creek, 4 miles below summit, les up cation See ae ; Cainp near head of Coal Creck, one- eo mile from summit, and about p Devs eeeee eee eeee ee ae ce ere ene ee Summit of Uintah range, neat head of Coal Creek nan a ° ses. Boos xesg pond Qa ees = on the ae, Fork of the Weber, one-eighth of a fered from camp of iaai fall Spe 73 miles from camp...... - _< branch of Porter's Creek. ile fi t tee mand one-half miles a camp Bowne on trail to White Clay Creek . . : Crossing of West Fork of Bear River. ‘ Summit west of Muddy ek, 20 miles fi Fort Bridg TEST P1000. ENS 91.9010 19.90 Te BRIIRASERSE S22E2238 ag dant EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX G. ESTIMATE OF APPROPRIATIONS NEEDED FOR ROADS IN THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. Ae Poll MA) ToS he. ESTIMATE OF APPROPRIATIONS NEEDED FROM CONGRESS TO PROPERLY IMPROVE THE ROUTES IN THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. The following letter from Bvt. Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston, commanding the Depart- ment of Utah, to Col. Samuel Cooper, Adjutant-General United States Army, written August 26, 1859, in reference to the roads I have explored and opened in Utah, is here presented in extenso, both on account of the value set by the general on the routes I have opened, and of the intimation it gives of his having instructed me to examine certain portions of them with a view to the formation of an estimate for their further improvement: HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF UTAH, Camp Fioyp, Uran, August 26, 1859. CoLonEL: On Captain Simpson’s return from his exploration westward (which has resulted, as has been hereto- fore reported, in his finding the shortest and best route from this valley to California via Carson Valley, and three hundred miles nearer than any other route from Salt Lake City), believing that the season was so far advanced that he would not be able to examine the country through to the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains on the most direct course to Fort Leavenworth (which it was expected in the spring he would have had time to do after making the exploration westward), before winter, he was instructed, in furtherance of that object, to ascertain if a route with an easy grade could be found from near the source of the Timpanogos River across to the Uintah River, and down into Green River- He proceed: d to Round Prairie, on Timpanogos River, from which place he commenced his explorations; and I now have the gratification to communicate the result, which will be found in his report from camp No. 3, Round Prairie, Timpanogos Valley, by which the honorable Secretary of War will be informed of his successful exploration on the contemplated eastern route as far as Green River. This discovery, when the route is made passable by the removal of trees and brush, which are the chief obstructions, will enable travelers t id making the great detour south, which was unavoidably made by Colonel Loring on his march to New Mexico. I learn from the guide who was employed in the search for the route, that it can be continued without an obstacle, up White River, into either part in which are sources of the Plattes, Arkansas, and various affluents of Green River. e only question, then, to be determined for the completion of an unexceptionable road from this camp on the most direct route to Fort L rth, through th gion, h will, from geological indications, no d more productive on the western slope than on the eastern, is as to the practicability of getting down from the middle or South Park to the foot of the mountains on the east side All the information I have, concurs as to the fact of numerous pack-trails down the eastern slope, which encour- ages the hope that a good wagon-route may be found, or a good road can be constructed; and I respectfully suggest that for that purpose it would be better to conduct any future explorations from the east side of the mountain. part of the tide of emigrants has been turned on Captain Simpson’s new road to California via Camp Floyd, and emigrants pass daily, and others with large herds of stock. The road is now well marked, and its natural state is sufficiently good, except a few places, at wide intervals, where the grade should be reduced, for which purpose I respect- fully recommend that a small appropriation of money should be asked for from Congress, and al ppropriation for reconstructing a part of the road from this camp to Fort Bridger, which was graded by the Mormon population up the Timpanogos Cafion, and to re-imburse them for their outlay in making that part of the road, and for the expense of building a bridge across that stream, and for grading and bridging such other parts of the road as shall need it. n estimate sufficiently accurate, upon which to found an appropriation, can be furnished by Captain Simpson, whom I requested to look at the route, on bis return, with that view. Whether the great national route in this region of the Rocky Mountains passes by Fort Bridger or the Uintah Pass, it must pass down the Timpanogos. _ The Mormons now charge a heavy toll on the graded road down the cafion and across the bridge. This road should be free from charge to travelers, 28 B bt, prove 218. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. The emigrants should not be subjected to the exactions which are made of them at this and several other places on the route. The Mormons and others who charge tolls, should be repaid their outlay, and travelers relieved from a tax which many are ill able to With great respect, your obedient servant, A. §. JOHNSTON, Colonel Second Cavalry, But. Brig. Gen. U. S. A., Comd’g. Col. SAMUEL CoopPER, Adjutant-General, : Washington, D. C. It will be noticed that in the above report General Johnston recommends that the Government re-imburse the Mormon people for the outlay they have made in the con- struction of a portion of my route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, and that it thus be relieved from the heavy toll which is now exacted upon it. This portion extends for a distance of 12 miles up the canon of the Timpanogos from its mouth, and the work was executed in the early part of the year 1858, before I explored and opened the route all the way through to Fort Bridger, in the fall of that, year. In order to ascertain the cost of the said turnpike, I addressed the following letter of inquiry to the Hon. W. H. Hooper, Delegate to Congress from Utah: WwW , December 6, 1859. Sr: Believing that it would be expedient to have the road from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, via the valley of Company would sell out its interest in the turnpike portjon of that road. I am anxious to know, so that if the amount asked is not unreasonably large, I can recommend to the Department an appropriation for the purpose. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ; IMPSON, Captain Topographical Engineers. Hon. W. H. Hooper, Delegate ey the Territory of Utah. Mr. Hooper’s reply.* HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIN VES, Washington City,. Mar ch 2, 1860. Dear Sir: On the 6th of last December I received a letter from you, making inquiry as to the amount the Tim- panogos River Turnpike Company would sell out their road for. Not being ablé at the time to give the desired infor- mation, I stated to you in my reply that I would write to Utah upon the subject and learn whether the company were willing to sell, and upon what terms. From Utah, in answer to my communication on this subject, I learn that, by action of the last legislative assembly, the cafion-road became the property of the Territory ; that there was expended in the construction of said road eighteen thousand nine hundred and ninety-seven dollars and sixty-one cents, ($18,997.61,) and for labor in locating the road and supervising the expenditures thereon, one thousand dollars, ($1,000, ) making i i hould the Government wish to purchase the cafion-road at the before-named amount of total cost, and wile the requisite appropriation for so doing, doubtless the Territory will be willing to sell said road for that s I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, WM. H. Hooper. Capt. J. H, Smarson Topographical rg es Having now presented some of the grounds for the following estimate, I am_pre- pared to submit it, premising that as the turnpike portion referred to in Mr. Hooper’s letter has been, a great deal of it, excavated from the solid rock, and includes an excel- lent bridge over the Timpanogos, I do not consider the amount expended by the Ter- ritory in its construction extravagant.t * The original transmitted through Bureau of Topographical Engineers, August 2, 1860, to Hon. Secretary of War. tThe details of the routes—at wh: at points they should be improved, and the nature of the improvements—will be found given in my journal of explorations above; and in my report of December 28, 1858, to General Johnston, of my exploration and opening of the new route from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger via Timpanogos Cafion and White Clay Creek. This last report constitutes Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 40, 35th Cong., 2d Sess. \ ESTIMATE OF APPROPRIATIONS NEEDED FOR ROADS. - 219 Listimate of cost of the construction and improvement of Captain Simpson's wagon-road Jrom Fort Bridger to California, via White Clay Creek, Timpanogos Canon, Camp Floyd, and his more southern or return route over the Great Basin. For portion of road from Fort Bridger to divide between Silver Creek and Timpanogos River, to be expended principally in White Clay Creek Valley o5 2455-43 - ot pesaice sidshis sect Jo Sh couture sp bos eect $20,000 To buy out the interest of the Territory of Utah in the turnpike portion of the road, in Timpanogos Cafion, as above ......-...--.------.---- 19,997 To improve said turnpike portion by widening it and elevating it sufficiently in places above the contingency of high water in the Timpanogos, and for generally repairing the road all the way from the divide between Silver Creek and the Timpanogos River to Camp Floyd .....-....-- 10,003 Total required for partion of road from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd....-- 50,000 For route from Camp Floyd to Genoa, via General Johnston’s tpass of the Guyot range, and Captain Simpson’s more southern (or more northern) route across the Great Basin (as the War Department may direct), and for making water-tanks . - 2. << csn ip p mee) xe entsiem eda ts ae 50,000 To carry the road across the first or most eastern range of the Sierra Nevada, from Genoa to Lake Valley, either by the west branch of Carson River, or the Daggett trail, as may be found most expedient by the engineer in charge, and in the latter case the road to join the old one at the summit of Johnston’s Pass, or where most advantageous. ..--.--.----------- _ 80,000 Total amount required for the whole road from Fort Bridger to Johnston’s POR ns on re as es oe Ag CAE ee eee eee 130,000 In the foregoing estimate I have assumed that it would be best for the Govern- ment to improve my more southern route over the Great Basin. I have done this for the reason that though this route is 29 miles longer than my more northern route, yet the grades of the former are better, and the grass, timber, and cultivable soil upon it more abundant, and the water equally if not more abundant. Should, however, the Government prefer to improve the more northern route, on which the mail and pony- express are now running, the above estimate will hold equally good, only instead of the phrase “more southern route,” that of “more northern route” should be used. ~ Indeed, it might in the low appropriation be left optional with the War Department to apply the money on either route as it might deem best. So much for the road from Fort Bridger to California. By referring to my journal, under date of August 12, 1859, it will be noticed that I explored a very favorable pass from the valley of the Timpanogos to that of Green River, over the Uintah range of mountains. This pass can be made available for wagons by the removal of the timber in Coal Creek Valley, on the north side of the pass; by the removal of the willows and — construction of some causeways in Potts’ Creek Valley, on the south side of the pass; and the filling up of some of the gullies in the valley of the Duchesne’s Fork. The cost of this would be, say, $20,000. This done; the valley of the Duchesne’s Fork of Uintah, and possibly of Green River, would be opened to settlement, and the result eventually follow of a wagon-road communication all the way through from the val- ley of Great Salt Lake, by the way of the Timpanogos, Coal Creek, Potts’ Creek, 220 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Duchesne’s Fork, the Uintah River, and White River, to Breckenridge, at the head of Blue River, in the middle park of the Rocky Mountains; from which to Denver City, according to the subjoined letter from Hon. B. D. Williams, there is probably at this date a wagon-road. ‘This route, it will be perceived, will, in connection with mine across the Great Basin, furnish much the shortest route across the continent from the Missouri River, and in addition be of incalculable service in the interchange of com- modities between the Mormon population and the people of the gold region about Pike’s Peak. | To sum up, Congress should appropriate : For the road above specified, from Fort Bridger to the summit of Johnston’s eee ee ee ere veces. ee ee * $130,000 For the road from Round Prairie, in Timpanogos Valley, to the mouth of Duchesne’s Fork, by the pass of the Uintah range, at the head of Coal And for a thorough exploration of the country between the mouth of Du- chesne’s Fork and Denver City, for the shortest and best route across the Rocky Mountains between those points........-..------.--------- 20,000 I now give the letter of Mr. B. D. Williams, above referred to: WASHINGTON Ciry, D. C., January 18, 1860. Str: At your request I write you on the subject of a wagon-road from Denver City, J aftexnoks Territory, due west to Great Salt Lake City. I would state that I have just received from Mr. George E. Spencer a plat of a town called Breckenridge, situated at the mouth of French Creek, which empties into Blue River. This point is where the gold was discovered last fall and is about one hundred miles from Denver City nearly west, and about sixty miles beyond the main divide of the Rocky Mountains. A short history of the prospecting = this country, perhaps, may be interesting. About the month of August last some Stiga miners crossed the “ snowy range” in search of gold, and, after prospecting for a short time, a portion returned to Denver City for provisions, sa made it known that they had made new and good discoveries of gold; at - once quite a rush took place for the newly-discovered fields, which were thoroughly prospected before the cold weather set in, so as to satisfy all that there was no humbug in this matter. Several hundred wagons crossed the range in the fall and returned, as late as the 10th of October. John N. Ming,an enterprising merchant at Auraria, fitted out and sent over some wagon-loads of goods which met with ready sale. Since that time there has a company of men obtained from the legislature a charter to build a wagon-road to said point, and are now engaged in prosecuting the same to an mes completion. They assure me that they will, by the 1st day of May, have the road fully completed, and that six ke of oxen can haul 5,000 pounds over the mountains to said point. I am informed that there is but little impedi- ment in ape a good road on to White River. llow that river to where it empties into ‘Grand River, and which is described by Captain Frémont in 1845, I feel mitiaibod in stating that there can, with but little expense, be a good and permanent wagon-road got, which will easily see, about the fortieth parallel of latitude. I cannot speak with the same certainty in reference to the practicability of the road beyond Breckenridge as I can on this side. You will understand that Breckenridge is in the Middle Park beyond the range of the mountains I hope that there will be an appropriation made to explore this oo and open a good road across this country. I am assured that it is about one hundred miles nearer than the old road by — and I am assured by those who know the country well that the snow will not impede the travel in wit: Hoping this information will be of some benefit to you, I am, respectfully, your B. D. At ba Delegate Jefferson cureoy: Capt. J. H. Simpson, Topographical Engineers. All of which is pecpoctfully submitted. J. H. Srmpson, Captain Topographical Engineers. DECEMBER 29, 1860. Col. J. J. Apert, Chief Corps Topographical Engineers. * Lhave been informed that the people of California and Western Utah, since my exploration, have been engaged in making the road from Ge east branch of the Sierra Nevada, by the — trail, to Johnston’s Pass. Picks, and they have completed it, $30,000 of the above estimated $130,000 may be deducte . EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX H. caesarean MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND g Boe he Pd Be ied, haat ne ealye yee . es APPEN DEX - Ef. scetetilctis MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. The following table of the magnetic dip (or inclination), declination (or varia- — tion), and horizontal intensity of various points along the route from Fort Leaven- worth, via Fort Kearney, Fort Laramie, and the South Pass, to Fort Bridger, and thence, via Camp Floyd, by my new more northern route, to Genoa, in Carson Val- ley, will not be without interest and value to the physicist as well as surveyor. The instruments used and experiments resorted to, as well as the method of at- taining the ultimate values of the magnetic elements, will be found stated in the fol- lowing communication of Lieutenant Putnam, Topographical Engineers, my assistant, . by whom the observations were chiefly made. The Jones unifilar magnetometer used by us was the one Dr. Kane had with him on his second Grinnell expedition to the Arctic Ocean, in search of Sir John Franklin; and though it was not altogether such in its form or capabilities as I could have wished, yet, for the reason that I could pro- cure no other and there was not time to have one made, I could not do better than to take it. For a paper on the mode of conducting the experiments with this instrument, and with the dip circle (or inclinometer), as well as of obtaining the mathematical value of the elements involved, which has been of great service to us in facilitating our work, I am indebted to Mr. J. E. Hilgard, of the Coast Survey, whose zeal in this branch of scientific research is not greater than his ability, and to whom I have now to express my grateful acknowledgments. In comparing the declination by the magnetometer (converted into a declinome- ter) and compass observations on Polaris, as given in the subjoined table, it will be noticed that there is a considerable difference between the results obtained; and that in one instance (at Fort Bridger) it reaches as much as 2° 6’ 50”. At first I was dis- posed to reject the declinations as shown by the declinometer altogether, supposing that this great difference was owing to a defectiveness on the part of the instrument, but perceiving, on examining the reductions of Dr. Kane’s observations in the months of January, February, and March, 1854, at Van Rensselaer: Harbor, by Mr. Charles A. Schott, assistant, United States Coast Survey, that he gives the following as a class- ification of the daily ranges according to their magnitudes, I have come to the con- clusion, as the observations were taken with a great deal of care, that the differences have arisen doubtless from the observations by the declinometer having been taken dur- ing the day, and those by compass during the night, in connection with the delicate nature of the declinometer, and that the results, therefore, as scientific facts, are worthy of recor ; 224. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Mr. Schott’s classification of Dr. Kane’s 17 daily observations is as follows: Daily range less than 1° Daily range between 1° and 2° Daily range between 2° and 3° Daily range between 3° and 4° Daily range between 4° and 5° Daily range greater than 5° : The observations we made were quite numerous, but as they are filed in the Bu- reau of Topographical Engineers for reference, it is thought best not to incumber the report with them, but only to subjoin a set of each as a specimen of the rest. ” The results, however, are presented below in a tabulated form, and also graphically on the small charts of the declination and inclination of the needle herewith (see Plate). These charts, I would remark, so far as the data shown across the continent, from Fort Smith, Ark., to the cation of Chelly, in New Mexico, and from Fort Leavenworth to Genoa, in Carson Valley, are concerned, are an extension by me of the latest charts on this subject from the United States Coast Survey. The Superintendent of the Coast Survey, Prof. A. D. Bache, has kindly furnished me with their latest mag- netic charts, and it is a gratification to me, by my explorations in 1849, from Fort Smith, via Santa Fé, to the cation of Chelly, and by my recent expedition from Fort Leavenworth to Genoa, to be thus able to supply a great deal of magnetic data, which will extend our knowledge of this element over a larger area of our country, and make these charts still more useful. In addition to the above I would make the following remarks in relation to the electric condition of the atmosphere in the Great Basin. I have noticed that my flan- nel, when cast off at night before retiring to rest, would evince, by a crackling sound, that it was highly charged. This would frequently be the case in combing one’s whis- kers, or handling a bear-skin. All this doubtless points to the very dry state, and, therefore, non-conducting power, of the air, and the non-escape of the electric fluid from terrestrial bodies except by the proximity of others. I would also extract the following from my report of my explorations in the fall of 1858, in Utah, as bearing on this subject: | “Tt is astonishing to notice the effect of the whirls and gusts of wind upon the magnetic needle, or, more properly speaking, to see the action of the magnetic needle at the time these whirls and gusts are in development. The fact of these disturbances appearing together does not necessarily point to the same cause producing both, but makes it strongly probable that the cause is one and the same in both cases. The needle, whenever these gusts and whirls are in exhibition, would stick either to the north or south end of the bottom of the box, and no change of position could make it stir. Sometimes the effect would be to disturb the needle very much, and to make it point indifferently to any point of the compass. When, however, the gusts would cease, the needle would act normally as usual.”* age A somewhat similar phenomenon exhibited itself subsequently at Camp Floyd, in March, 1859, when, however, the weather was fair, though there was some little wind. _ [was verifying some observations for magnetic declination, by placing a surveyor’s - compass, on the meridian, immediately over the transit station, with the intention of ee * See Senate Ex. Doc., No. 40, 35th Cong., 2d session, p. 28. ’ oWwW rk Oe MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. 225 reading the declination directly from the needle. The needle, however, I perceived, would not traverse. Supposing the glass cover pressed upon it, I took it off, when the needle moved freely and normally. Finding, however, the wind agitated it too much to allow it to come to a state of rest, I placed the glass back, and found, on a closer examination, that it did not touch the needle. But still the needle would not traverse. I again took off the glass and the needle again traversed freely. I then extended the glass to its place on the needle gradually, when I noticed the effect of the proximity was to paralyze the needle, and that in proportion to the proximity, so that when the glass was in its place the motion of the needle was entirely paralyzed. ‘The cause, then, of the needle not*traversing was the influence of the glass cover in its then ab- normal state. Finding the compass to be of no service for the purpose in view, I sub- stituted another in its place, which I found to work well without any signs of disturb- ing agency. Some days after this I had occasion to again use the first-named com- pass, when I found the needle acted normally. The cause, then, of the disturbance above referred to was on account of the acci- dental abnormal state of the glass cover at the time, and not from any permanent dis- turbing cause. It is not understood, however, what caused the abnormal condition of the glass of the first large surveyor’s compass. Both it and the second surveyor’s com- pass were taken out of their respective boxes just before using them, and the state of the wind was by no means one of irregularity. Besides, if it had arisen from the at- mosphere, what affected the one ought to have affected the other, as they had both been subjected to the same handling. I have thought it proper to note these irregularities in the magnetic needle on ac- count of its bearings upon the accuracy of surveys depending upon its normal state, and the necessity of watching to see that no such disturbing causes are in operation at the time bearings are taken with it. I think there can be no doubt that frequently irregularities, which have been attributed to local attraction, have arisen from this source, and not from the presence of metallic substances to which they have been ascribed; and it is very probable, too, that these irregularities, in all such cases, have been but temporary.* (See, also, Appendix E; pages 78 and 79.) * Since writing the foregoing I have become acquainted with Mr. W. H. Paine, surveyor and civil engineer, of She- boygan, Wisconsin, who has furnished me with the following letter, corroborative of the inexplicable character of the abuenns) condition of the magnetic needle at certain periods: “ WASHINGTON, D. C., January 9, 1861. “Dear Sir: Agreeably to your request I will briefly mention some of the observations and experiments which I have made relative to some of the disturbing influences affecting the magnetic needle as used in the surveyors compass. “An unfavorable electrical state of the glass covering the needle is a very common one | of sacrkne se and its effects are often mistaken for those of local attraction, as it is difticult to determine, by n, whether the one end of the needle is elevated by attraction or the other depressed by a similar cause. “And when the Coe - one end of the needle from this cause is but slight, the needle is often supposed to be in its normal state when it is n “Whenever I have “a occasion to use a compass, for several years past, I have proceeded as though I suspected some disturbing influence was gmc be effect nts ag: needle, and often, atror apg the needle to become appa- rently settled, have found that, by breathing and bringing them in contact with it, the needle would change its position both i in oon to its dip and ieelkunties, ‘thas showing that the electric state of the glass affected the needle when it was leas “For more than two years past I have used a cover or guard, so constructed as to prevent the glass from es in in contact with the clothes of the person carrying the compass, or with other substances, and but comparatively seldom in an abnormal state. « Still, th oi wien i dle is disturbed, and on two ions, in particular, I was unable to remove the 29 BU 226 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. I would also draw attention to the fact, which the tables will show, that the usual law which governs the variations in the declination of the needle does not obtain between Fort Bridger and Genoa. At Bridger (longitude 110° 23’ 47”), the declina- tion obtains a maximum of 17° 30’ E.; at Simpson’s Spring (longitude 112° 47’ 18"), farther west, it declines to 15° 30’ E.; and still farther west, at Genoa (longitude 119° 40’ 30”), it again has increased to 16° 40’ E. Mr. Francis A. Bishop, in his report on the Humboldt division of the Fort Kearney, South Pass, and Honey Lake road, speaks of the same thing. His language is: “It will be observed that the magnetic variation increases in going from the Honey Lake (longitude 120° 15’) to the City Rocks (longitude 113° 45’) from 16° 00! 15” E. to 17° 00’ 20” E., contrary to the general law of magnetic variations.* : Captain Whipple’s table of magnetic results shows the like irregularity to obtain ‘near the parallel of 35° of north latitude, between Albuquerque (longitude 106° 387 52’) and Soda Lake, the sink of the Mojave River (longitude 115° 58° 46”), though not to the same degree. t The following is Lieutenant Putnam’s communication, referred to above: Sir: Herewith is presented the results of observations for magnetic elements, en route from Fort Leavenworth to Genoa, Carson Valley, in 1858-59. : The observations for dip and declination were usually made at intervals of about 50 miles along the route; those for intensity could be taken only at a few points, the nature of the observation being such as to require much time and care to determine the yecessary data. The instrament used for obtaining the declination and intensity was the “ unifilar magnetometer No. 3;” the dip circle made by Gambey was used for finding the dip or inclination. To avoid the trouble of locating the meridian, the work of at least one night under favorable circumstances of weather, the magnetic azimuth of the sun was taken, while at the same time another observer measured its altitude with the sextant, and a third noted the time by the chronometer. These data were sufficient, by means of a simple formula, involving the co-latitude of the place, the sun’s zenith and north polar distances, to compute the true azimuth, which, with the magnetic azimuth already found, gives the desired declination. The observations for intensity were of two kinds: experiments of vibration, and experiments of deflection. 1. The experiments of vibration consist in finding the time of one vibration of the magnet, which was suspended horizontally by mieans of a single fiber of silk. This is best done by noting the time of a large number of vibrations, say 200, and dividing this time by the number. 2. The experiments of deflection, which consist in measuring the angle u, through which the suspended magnet is" deflected by another magnet placed at right angles to and a certain distance from the first. By means of the quantities (¢ and «) thus found, and the formulas, m —— and “= 34° tan u, (in which zis the horizontal component of the magnetic force, m the magnetic moment of the magnet, k its moment of inertia, and r the distance of the deflecting from the suspended magnet in feet and tenths), the value of x may be found. ; The dip was obtained as follows: The plane of the circle was first put in the magnetic meridian either by the use of the ordinary compass for the purpose, or by giving it such a position that the needle would stand vertically ; this cor- responds to a position of the vertical circle at right angles to the magnetic meridian, and by means of the graduated horizontal circle it can be at once brought into the magnetic meridian. In this position both ends of the needle are read. It is then lifted from the Y’s, and turned half around its longer axis, replaced, and read again; the horizontal circle is then revolved 180° around its vertical axis, and ends of the needle read again; then the needle is once more turned about its longer axis, and reading taken as before. The same process precisely is gone through with a second needle. If time allows, the poles of each are reversed, and the observation repeated with both. Whenever this is. done cause of disturbance by the methods previously resorted to. On both of these occasions other phenomena indicated a highly electrical state of the atmosphere, and to be certain that local attraction was not exerting any influence, I have since passed over the same lines without experiencing any difficulty, or witnessing any of the phenomena then so appa- rent. Ido not attempt t t for tl f this pl , but merely submit the facts in the case, although _ my opinion is that currents of electricity in the air had something to do in the case. “Yours, very respectfully, - * Wo. H. PAINe. “Capt. J. H. Smrpson.” _— * See Ex. Doe. No. 108, H. R., 35th Cong., 2d sess., p. 44. ee t See Appendix “G,” Pacific Railroad Reports, vol. iv. —— ot Cigpt. SH. ns Lh CLS An IE 99. Rater: Do FeL caver eX LINES OF EQUAL MAGNE TI€ DIP CAPT J.H.SIMPSON,T.E. eA ms te. The figures ma Je thus 79° denote 7 aay | | determined re G ingen ja ind 58 those rndscle thats oe fom foas ra) ft / urvey report. \ Seale: 20.000.000. : { MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. 227 a mean of thirty-two observations is obtained, and the errors of eccentricity, imperfect balancing of the needles, and imperfect sen me at the pivots, are eliminate After reaching Washington a of the tuacdinenty, facilities for this p m, very respectfully, your obedient servant, Capt. 4 H. Simpson ‘orps of Topographical Engineers, United States Army. Table —— the value of the oe yah declination, between Fe , Carson Valley, ort Leavenworth, constant sctrostlia was determined for the declination (rendered necessary by defects urpose being obligingly afforded by Mr. Schott, of the Coast-Survey. . §. PuTNAM, Lieutenant Topographical Engineers. ican of eee J. H. Simpson, “vanoprapnicns engineers, in 1858 and 1 Date. Place. Latitude (north). tude (west Greenwich). “ane Fort Leavenworth : ‘ wine Little Muddy a weee- Camp No. 2 tae ave mp Ni 6 Cant No. 7 -Ash ow . nk Platte Pe Chi 0 uly 26, y R F North P Platte Fort Laramie ....... La Bonté River ‘Ang. 11,1858 | Five miles wet ee OE ug. Haare reek . ‘lear tence iver: SS weeee Sulphur Spring. -...- Anteloe Valley ee ee) Carson Lake .....-. June 81859 Big Bend, si Walker's Rive eeceews caer es cco seowret esses June 15, 1859 oa, Carson Valley The observations for magnetic intensity give for 2, as follows: At Fort Leavenworth, Kans., 8, 25,0194; at Camp Floyd, the earth’s magnetic force, #—4,368; at Fort Kearney, Kans., June 24, 185 Utah, March 25, 1859, #=5,3750. 65 60 h5 oorr and horizontal intensity at various points Nevada, as determined in the explora- 1859: y dip- circle, Dip or inclina- tion, b nee ee wns ee ee ed ind 2 23 Bass o Ss ge E,F 38 SgHO. fe sacs = a 223 Bi2eg gre SSoSS = ° ‘ ”“ ° ‘ a“ 1 50 15 |.....-----2 00s 12 36 42 |... ceeene see. 15.09 46 |.....-6-000e-s piaskacetiewee 13 06 00 14 39 00 |.............. 14 43 42 |......+....--- Vecnsseueeeu se 13 18 00 14 38 00 14 00 00 14 16 49 |.....--.-.---- Do pe eeu eee: ek ee Oe 12 04 ST 1 .s5.6.. 020s. 4 20 44 |.....---+---s: ‘dunwhesounees 16 26 00 peewee geber es 16 36 00 14 24 36 }.-.2-- -00-eee- 18 22 35 |...2-..0u.2s-- 18 28 22 |....-------.-- 20-23 30 .|.....-------+- 19 41. G5 |. 2...0...065-- 19° 56 24 | oc. ec ctceee eer | Se ye Seer rae 19 36 17 30 00 10 TA AT fic we ne i565 >= 16 34 17 10 08 16 42 15 30 00 pS 16 47 16 50 00 See ee eee 16 47 00 1G: G5 SO foc a cess ee eee sir ae | ae TS Pree reeset 16 43 15 55 00 17 (03 16 10 00 AP 10 8 oe ceases a eee ee 16 17 16 40 00 wae eee ween sees KSRELAS the horizontal component of May 10, 1858, 228 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. {Form used.] Horizontal intensity— Experiments of vibration—Camp half-mile south of Fort Leavenworth, May 10, 1858.— Magnet A 67, Inertia ring, Z.— Chronometer 1821. ¥ $ ce i ¢ “Time of 300 vibration ved wo 3 2 = time o 200 vibrations = 28 3 2 2 RS 7528. 3 of vibra- os a as $3 tions = 5a. 76 ; FI 2 o Ey £5 25 nw? k a” & 5 Cre £ ican : A a = a a h. m. 8. bh & 0} 403 21 67.1160 Sb. Mi 6. 57518 10 58 T? sees, Seimei ® 20) 4 04 35 : 1, 15036 r 4 05 12 wk 1, 33940 50 | 4 06 28 ™ 2% 0. 18904 100 | 4 09 38 *m 9. 54876 200 | 4.15 55 fe. sce 280 | 320] 12 34 ee 10} 4 16 31 12 xz 0. 64028 =4, 368 b4 417 07 12 32 —— 5 417 44 12 m 40| 418 22 12 32 | = — SO) 418 59... 450} 140/ 1231 | mx 0.18904 Means 12 32 | m? “9.09753 m “9: 54876 Observer, Capt. J, H. Simpson. [Form used.] ener intensity ——Deflections with theodolite magnetometer.—Camp, $ mile —_ fs Fort Leaven- orth, May 19, 1858.—Magnet A 67, deflecting at right angles to magnet I 10, suspended. (Distance x —=1.3 feet. Log. = 0.11394.) -. 2 3 Circle readings. Circle readings. 2 : 2|\¢ Ss z No. A B Mean. | No. A B Mean. ° °o / it t “a ‘ wt ° ‘ Ls i Mat ‘ a“ ° E. 1 70 53 20 52 00 52 40 3 Ww. tT 62 Si 20 51 00 51 10 a E. 3 70 49 45 48 40 49 10 Ww. 62 52 00 45 40 48 50 E. 5 70 49 40 49 00 49 20 s Mean 8° 50’ 23” o i a i ie ‘ a °o é “ , a” t a roe ae 62 49 00 48 00 | 48 30 o oe 7 | 70 53 00 | 52 20 | 52 40 5 Ww. 8 | 62 49 20 | 48 00 | 48 40 ow 7 54 00 53 20 53 40 W. 10 | 62 49 00 | 48 00 | 48 30 | { : Mean 8° 04/ 30/ =: Logarithms. Ri Beenie Seen a i ° ‘ a Mag. E. 2u=—8 50 23 Mag. W.2u=8 04 30 Mean 8 27 26.5 4 9, 69897 « St(h as rs 0. 34183 Beginning time 11.25 a. m.; temperature 82°.5.| Sin. u Tee ces 86769 : ™m i Ending time 2.40 p. m.; temperature 74°. ‘2 Bre “eg bones Observer, Capt. J. H. Simpson. MAGNETIO OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. 229 {Form used.] Magnetic dip.— Genoa, Nevada, June 14, 1859.— Needle No. 1.—Observer, Lieutenant Putnam. A. 8., OR UPPER END. Circle east. Circle west. Face east. Face west." Face east. Face west. re | B re | a ae S | ee | B . On 8 pO 4 o 4 O- 15m 4 Be eee es 689 8 15" 63° 16’ 30” 64° 639 12’ 22" 64° 63° 54° 22 Needle No. 2.—Observer, Lieutenant Putnam. A. 8., OR UPPER BND. Circle west. Face west. Face east. a | 2 a |B a |B o = °o ¢ | o é o , ° o , | ° 2 63 14}] 63 49| 63 48164 36164 38/64 13 64 14 With poles reversed. ‘ 65 ee ysl BAe bidored vet awe ec ae 12 Py 64° 09 64 17 B49 46° 15" | 64° 427 30” 64° 13' Go 44 BN" 64° 28 41" 63 54 a“ 2)128 23 03 Grand mean or mag- ————-—— netic dips..........--. 64 I 31 [Form used.] Magnetic declination or azimuth between the true and magnetic meridian. _ Camp one-half mile south of Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, May 25, 1888.—Unifilar magnetometer No. 3.—Magnet I 10. - From magnetic station to magnetic south point (mirror above): i - Co a it Limb of magnetometer reads, first vertical 67 53 40 Limb of magnetometer reads, second vertical 247 «52 20 Mean eee 67 53 00 230 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. (Mirror below :) Sey ’ Limb of magnetometer reads, first vertical ; 70 07 40 Limb of magnetometer reads, second vertical 250 07 20 Mean : 70 07 30 Grand mean of magnetic south point - 69 00-15 True south point reads, first vertical 57 01 20 True south point reads, second vertical : 237 00 Mean ions 57 Q1 00 Difference of mean readings or magnetic azimuth : oissees SAO OP I Lieut. H. S. Putnam, Observer. —In the above case = “ge meridian had been determined by an observation on Alioth (e, Ursw Majoris) and Polaris, and marked on the grou In our observations on the march the magnetic azimuth of the sun was observed and the true azimuth (or ay determined from the known time, latitude, and declination. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX HH. — RATOROADenOU T4455 FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Au EIN Doss Bad RAILROAD ROUTES FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. [By Capt. J. H. Smureson, Corps TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, U. 8. ARMY. ] As it may be expected of me, on account of my explorations over different por tions of the country lying between the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers and the Pacific Ocean, that I should express my views in relation to the great question of one or more railroads across the continent, I do not know how I can better do so than to include, as a portion of my report, the following letter which I addressed on this subject to a citizen of Buffalo, January 20, 1859, when I was at Camp Floyd. At that date I had not made the explorations I have since over the Great Basin of Utah, and I will, there- fore, premise that what I have said in this letter, in relation to the middle or Beckwith _ railroad route, I am constrained, from the experience I now have, to modify, so far as to state that, while I do not consider (as I have reported in the introduction to my report) my route across the Great Basin a railroad route, yet I do believe that that suggested by Captain Beckwith, from the south end of Great Salt Lake to the head of the Humboldt, and thence down its valley at least to where it should leave said valley to strike and cross the Sierra Nevada, will be found to be practicable. What should be the line from the Humboldt to and across the Sierra Nevada is a question which, probably, is more open to doubt; though I should gather, from Captain Beckwith’s report, that even in this section his grades do not preclude the practicability of the route.* I will also premise that, as the accumulation of the snows in the high mountain- passes is more due to successive snow-storms, and non-melting of the snow, and thus every storm adding something to the quantity, than to a fall of it at any one period, which might, as often as it cecusred, be removed with probably no very great difficulty, I do not consider the snow in the mountains as great a hinderance to a railroad across the continent, on the middle route, as my letter below indicates. With these soaassssoae a I now present the letter as expressing my present views on this subject. Railroad across the United States, from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Camp Froyp, Utan, January 20, 1859. Dear Sir: Tout letter of the 9th ultimo I had the gratification to receive by the | last mail. You request of me my views in relation to the Pacific Railroad, which you * See vol. ii, Pacific Railroad Reports. 30 BU > t 254 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. are pleased to think my familiarity with the country and long consideration of the various projects suggested qualify me to give. My experience in relation to this sub- ject consists in my having made, with Captain Marcy, in 1849, the first survey of the Fort Smith and Zuni route, as far as the Rio Grande, each taking notes for the purpose; thence, to Zuni, I was alone engaged in the reconnaissance, and in my report of this survey I pointed out, for the first time, the great importance to the Government, on the score of grade and distance, of ordering a further reconnaissance of a route in the - same direction all the way to the Pacific. My reports of both these explorations have been published by the Government, and they are available to those who may take any interest in the history of explorations in this country. My views in relation to a Pacific railroad differed very much from those of Colonel Frémont and other officers of the Government; but as they did not flatter the public mind into the belief that the project was one or immediate accomplishment, but one, if ever made, only to grow out of circumstances which might be made normal to its accomplishment, they, donbes less, were considered of but little value, and, therefore, excited no attention. It is, however, gratifying to find that the very mode I suggested as being the only one which would bring the railroad at length, if it was to come at all, has, for about two years back, been followed by the Government; that is, by opening the several routes as military, post, and emigration roads, and thus making the circumstances normal to a proper knowledge of the routes, and of the capability of the country in relation to them. The Fort Smith and Zuni route has, since my exploration and reports, becn surveyed by Captain Whipple, who extended it all the way to California, and its extension is now being worked by Mr. E. F. Beale, for a wagon-road, under the direc- tion of the Government. Since my exploration of the route referred to, in 1850, I was over the Santa Fé and Fort Leavenworth route on my return to the States. From May, 1851, to June, 1856, for five years, I was in charge of the General Government roads in the Terri- tory of Minnesota, one of which extended from Saint Paul to Pembina, another from Point Douglass to Lake Superior, another from Mendota to tlie mouth of the Big Sioux River, and several other roads, all of which, of course, gave me an opportunity of knowing something of the country and climate in that quarter. Since then, during the past year, you are aware of my journeyings to Utah, by Fort Kearney and the North Platte, and of my reconnaissance east and west of Camp Floyd. I mention all this to show my experience in the matters of which I am about to treat, so that my discussion of the subject may be regarded for what it is worth. The mail leaves to- morrow morning, and I am, therefore, obliged to write rapidly and not as fully as I could wish, though my convictions are none the less decided, on account of long con- sideration of the several routes. DISCUSSION OF THE SUBJECT. The public mind has, for a number of years past, ever since the great exodus to California, growing out of the discovery of large deposits of gold in that region, been greatly exercised in relation to the importance and speedy completion of one or more . Scare connecting the Atlantic with the Pacific Ocean, across the continent of North RAILROAD ROUTES. 235 America, and through our national domain. The change created in the minds of men with regard to the real situation of California, in respect to its remote distance from the Atlantic States, by the establishment of a line of steamers on either ocean to the Isthmus of Panama, which would waft the emigrant to the golden port of the Pacific coast, the bay of San Francisco, in one-eighth of the time it was wont to take around Cape Horn; quickly restore him to his friends to tell them what he had seen; and speedily transmit the mails by which the news was kept constantly recurring and fresh, all of which was read by the public with the greatest avidity, have conspired to bring mentally the Pacific coast and its adjoining region very near to us, when, really, in a physical point of view, it is just as far distant as ever. The consequence has been that what before was believed to be perfectly chimer- ical, the construction of a railroad across the continent, is now regarded as a thing certain; and not only so, but that it will be accomplished in a few years; people do not say how many, but I suppose they vaguely mean from three to five. Such were the ideas which prevailed ten years ago, and yet not the first certain step has been taken in the consummation of the project. Not a foot of railroad has been laid which may fairly be called a part of the great national railroad, and which has been under- taken with any decided determination to push the road across the continent. This long lapse of time between the conception of a project of vast importance and the commencement of the undertaking is, however, only the fruit of causes which have been existing all along, and which were first pointed out by the writer, as before stated, in his reports of the Fort Smith route in 1849. Nature remains the same now upon this vast theater between the Mississippi on the east and the Pacific on the west it ever did. The long dreary waste of deserts still are experienced by the toiling, weary emigrant as long and dreary as ever, and the Rocky and other mountains still rear their majestic peaks and ridges, and boldly challenge the strength, energy, and perseverance of the way-worn traveler. The truth is, facts are stubborn things, and he, be he engineer, statesman, or phi- losopher, who ignores them, will at length find that he has been following but a vain conceit, which will eventually land him, where an attainable prescience might have forewarned him, into a condition of vain inanity, or, it may be worse, of utter ruin. We have been led into these reflections by the history of the railroad question, which only within the past two or three years has been approximating toward a solu- tion. In our judgment, facts have been ignored, and desires and vain expectations have been entertained by politicians, and I may say the people generally, which have eventuated in results that might from the first have been anticipated, under reports which it appears to me (in all humility I say it) ought to have dwelt more upon the difficulties of the project, and of the mode in which they are to be determined and met, than upon fanning the public mind with the hot haste which thus far has resulted only in finding, at a late date, from actual observation and experience, that the mode of building the road is, first, to prepare the way by common roads, and opening them to settlement and cultivation, and that then the railroad will normally come, if it comes atel.. 2 : ep Ree Now, all this misapprehension of the failure in regard to the completion of the 236 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. railroad, as we think, has been owing to two causes, both of which, singly and together, have been operating to produce it. One is the perfect ignorance of the people in respect to the character of the country through which the railroad or railroads are to be built, and, therefore, their inability to realize the true state of the case. The other is the seemingly studious way in which the stubborn facts of the project and unpalat- able truths have been kept in the background. I say seemingly studious, for so at first glance it might appear, though I think it has arisen from a habit of mind to dwell, in descriptions of country, upon that which is pleasing, and caring but little to dwell upon that which, though a truth of the greatest importance in the premises, is forbid- ding; I refer to the alae utter barrenness which characterizes, as a whole, the expanse of country for hundreds, I may almost say thousands, of miles along the sev- eral routes. Now, when I speak of the ignorance of the people in respect to the char- acter of the country, I do not speak of it in the way of reproach. Far from it, but only as a fact which they cannot help, and which is common to the most intelligent, and all because, having seen nothing of the same kind in their own experience, they cannot, even by any description which others may give, come up, in their own con- ceptions, to the utter barrenness and worthlessness, speaking as a whole, which this country throughout nearly its whole extent presents. For example, the fact may be told a hundred times that the great area of the country, from about two hundred miles west of the States of Arkansas and Missouri, nearly the whole way to the Pacific, is one unmitigated desert (including within this also barren mountains), which a person who has seen it would scarcely take as a gift; and yet, notwithstanding all this, annually you will see bills brought forward in Con- gress in which the land along the route figures as a very important element in the ways and means to construct the road. Should Congress send out a committee to spy out the utter poverty of the land, as it really exists, it is possible it may be brought to a standpoint from which members will see the fact as it is, and the difficulties on this account, and others may then loom up sufficiently to assure them that the construction of this road will require something more to accomplish it than the legislation which has attended the construction of roads in our densely populated and fertile States, where all is normal to immediate and certain results. ~ But should not one or more railroads be built across our saoay? Should not our Pacific possessions and population be brought into closer relation by the quick response of sympathy, social, commercial, and mniitacy, which this mode of transit would engender? Should not the trade of the great nations of China and J apan, which by treaty has lately been dpened to us, be made available to us as a people and a nation, by the establishment of a hard-iron railway, which, by its slight friction and the steam-car, would rapidly possess us of the rich products of those countries? Does not the quick concentration of troops, necessary in time of danger from threat- ened invasion, as well as the close bond which should ever*subsist between the -remotest and all portions of our confederacy, make such a project a sine qua non of safety from our enemies from without, and of amity and harmony within? To all this we most indubitably reply yes. But how shall we go to work to build oe roads, and what routes shall we take? Shall we have but one road, and that RAILROAD ROUTES. 237 through Northern Texas and Mexico; or shal! we take the middle route, through Utah; or would it be best to take the route through Minnesota and the Territories of Nebraska and Washington surveyed by Governor Stevens? Or shall we have two or all the roads? | These have been puzzling questions, as their yet unsettled state shows; but still it seems to us that a solution of them is attainable. The great error, as we think, in the whole of this project has been in the supposition that the road could be built at once, and that all Congress had to do was to will it by legislation. But every project has its normal condition in respect to its accomplishment, out of which naturally and easily is derived the end in view. What, then, is the normal condition which is neces- sary to the success of so gigantic a railroad scheme? I assert that this condition is in the establishment of the circumstances which will give success to the project. And what are these? Simply those which I have adverted to before, the opening and making practicable by the Government of common wagon-roads along the several proposed lines of railroad-routes, and thus making them military, emigration, and postal routes, by means of which the country will, in eligible locations, be populated; its resources, such as they are, developed; and a knowledge of what really can be done obtained. And I go farther. Nof only should these routes be thus established, but Congress, in my judgment, should observe a liberal policy toward the attainment of so important a national good. A comparatively small outlay in this direction will save millions, which may be sunk by the premature commencement of a railroad - which might have to be suspended or indefinitely postponed on account of insufficient concurrent means. Are these circumstances yet normal, on either of the routes, to the successful prosecution and completion of a Pacific railroad? In respect to the southern route, the policy which is now being observed by the Government, of establishing a military, postal, and emigration road in this direction, must in a few years present a status or condition which will enable the Government and the people to see what really can be done in building a great national road in this quarter. In regard to the middle or Utah route, the Government, as we think, has wisely made this.a military and postal route; and as it has for years been a great highway, it will not be long before the exact status of this road will be known, if it is not already known, in reference to its capabilities and resources as a platform for the proposed railroad. As it respects the northern or Minnesota route, the Government ought, in the opinion of the writer, also to open and establish a military, postal, and emigrant wagon-road in this direction. This step would not be more productive of advantage to our northwest Pacific Territories of Washington and Oregon than it would be the meatis of developing -the country all along the route, and making the circumstances normal to the expression of its exact condition in respect to the building of a railroad. As to the question where it is probable the national railroad or railroads will be located, we think it a foregone conclusion that the southern, through New Mexico or Arizona, will be the locale of one. We are of this opinion, first, because the grades as y 238 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. determined by the Government explorers are lighter on this route than on either of the others; second, because, if we have a railroad at all, we ought to have one which would be available without intermission the whole year around; and, in order to this, it should be beyond the contingency of obstructions from snow, which could not be the case with the others higher north. In regard to the route proposed by Senator Benton, and to orhith Colonel Fré- mont was most partial, that in the region of the 38th parallel, the surveys by Captains Gunnison and Beckwith show that, from the high grades it would be necessary to overcome, it is entirely impracticable. That proposed by Captains Stansbury and Beckwith, through Bridger’s Pass and by way of Timpanogos, is doubtless far better, in point of grade fad practicability, than the one just referred to; but still we think that its cost will never justify its construc- tion, and, if made, that its obstructions by the snows of winter through the high mount- ain-passes would ever make it an uncertain route. The route through Minnesota, Nebraska, and Washington Territory, in the region of the 48th parallel of latitude, it might be supposed, from its being still higher north, was out of the question. The facts, however, do not justify such a conclusion. The country, as high as our most northern boundary, and for a number of degrees above it, in British America, has-been tried agriculturally, and it is well known that it pro- duces the cereals and all garden vegetables, and some of the succulent fruits in the greatest perfection. The good land, as also the timber regions, approximate on this route nearer than on either of the others. From a map in my possession, copied from one drawn by a Jesuit missionary, the Rev. Peter John De Smet, who kindly loaned it to me for the purpose, I translate the following remark, which applies to the country all along the east foot of the Rocky Mountains, from about the river Maria, a tributary of the Missouri, in latitude 48°.50, to the Saskatchewan River, or latitude 53°—that is, for an extent, following the oblique trend of the mountain range, of for more than 400 miles. His notation is, ‘All the region which lies adjacent to the Rocky Mountains is agreeably diversified with fertile plains and beautiful forests; lakes and hills give variety to the landscape between the heads and forks of innumerable streams, and wild animals of every kind abound.” ‘Besides, the reverend gentleman, in pointing out to me this region of sountey, spoke of it in the most glowing terms. He has been for 12 years a missionary among the Indians of Oregon, Nebraska, and farther north in British America, and is prob- ably as well acquainted with all this region as any man living. He acquired the ability of taking notes of reconnaissance in one of the expeditions of Monsieur Nicollet, and has ever since been in the habit of doing so, and plotting his routes. In this connection, I refer you to an extract, herewith, from quite a sensibly-written article entitled ‘‘Fraser River,” which I find in the last October number of the Knicker- bocker. The remarks of the writer in reference to the track northwestward which is to mark the direction of =. and where villages, towns, and cities are destined to * From an article entitled “ Fraser River,” in aca Knickerbocker of October, 1858. : Men is the - fact of the northwestern area of this continent. An area not inferior in size to the whole we States east of the Mississippi, which is asian adapted to the fullest occupation by cultivated nations, yet is RAILROAD ROOTES. 239 This northern route, then, passes over a country which is cultivable for a very considerable portion of its extent. Wood and water are doubtless more abundant upon it than upon any of the other routes; and the grades, according to Governor Stevens, are not impracticable for a railroad. ‘The snows, too, are not so heavy as almost wholly unoccupied, lies west of the 98th meridian and above the 43d parallel; that is, north of the latitude « J Milwaukee, and west of the longitude of Red River, Fort Kearney, and Corpus Christi. Or, to state the fact in another way, east of the Rocky Mountains, and west of the 98th meridian, and between the 40th and 60th parallels, there is a productive, cultivable area of 500,000 square miles. West of the Rocky Mountains,and between the same parallels, to the Pacific. The isothermals deflect greatly to the north, and the temperatures of the Northern Pacific areas are paralleled in the high latitudes of Western and Central Europe. The latitudes which inclose the plateaus of the Missouri and the Saskatchewan, in Europe inclose the rich central plains of the continent. The great grain-growing districts of Russia lie between the 45th and 60th parallels, that is, north of the latitude of Saint Paul, Minn., or East- port, Me. Indeed, the temperature in some instances is higher for the same latitudes here than in Central Europe. The isothermal of 70° for the summer, which in our plateau ranges from along latitude 50° to 52°, in Europe skirts through Vienna and Odessa in about parallel 46°. The isothermal of 50° for the year rans along the coast of British Columbia, basto may be grown as high as the Saskatchewan. The buffalo winter as safely on the Upper Athabasca as in the latitude of Saint Paulfand the spring opens at nearly the same time along the immense line of plains from Saint Paul to Mackenzie’s River. To these facts, for which region bordering the Northern Pacific, the finest maritimé positions belong, throughout its entire extent, and no part of the West of Europe exceeds it in the advantages of equable climate, fertile soil, and commercial accessibility of coast, We have the same excellent authority for the statement that in every condition forming the basis of national wealth, the continental mass lying westward and northwestward from Lake Superior is far more valuable than the interior in lower latitudes, of which Salt Lake and Upper New Mexico are the prominent known districts. In short, its commer- cial and industrial capacity is gigantic. Its occupation was coeval with the Spanish occupation of New Mexico and California. The Hudson’s Bay Company has preserved it an utter wilderness for many long years. The Fraser River discoveries and emigration are facts which the company cannot crush. Itself must go the wall, and now the population of the great northwestern areas begins. Another effect of the Fraser River discoveries is their determination of the route for the great Pacific Railroad. In view of the facts which we have just stated, it becomes clear that if the population of the United States were evenly distributed from the Gulf of Mexico to the great lakes, the existence of these northwestern areas would draw the lines of travel to the Pacitic sensibly to the north. But the Northern States are by far the most densely populated. The which villages, towns, and cities will arise, and therefore the first railroad be built to the Pacific coast Beyond trol, these great movements of nations and peoples go on without their foresight, and without the knowledge of the earlier generations; yet, working out in beautiful order, and as if with universal consent, and the conspiracy of all the secret forces of nature, their grand and best results. If we recall, in this connection, the precise position of the mauvaises terres, and the rainless, sandy, and unin- habitable areas of the continent, the nature and location of the mountain chains, exclusive of the Rocky Mountain range, extending from latitude 47° to 33°, headed at the sonth by the Gila River, on whose southern side are the arid, uncultivable tracts of Sonora, and headed at the north by the Missouri River, on whose northern side lie these vast, cultivable and inhabitable areas; if we recall the remarkable deflection to the westward of the Rocky Mountain range in this latitude; if we recall, also, the course of that gigantic stream, which is far greater than the river to which by a mistaken nomenclature, it is made tributary, a stream extending to the very base of the Rocky Mountains, in the * + oT ay 1 rs A transits jeet i feo its mouth, and for smaller vessels almost within sound of the Great Falls; if we recall, also, the r e deflection to the north of the isothermal lines from the west of Lake Superior, already mentioned, and the position of Columbia River, and remember withal that the first and the great routes of travel are always where nature has s d or t f great rivers; if we combine all these conceptions with the one first advanced, of the villages : trong union of the Atlantic and Pacific States. The Fraser River discoveries — have hastened the result; they have not diverted it. 240 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. in more southern latitudes. In addition, the navigability of the Missouri high up in this region will facilitate the construction of the road. ‘These facts certainly are important, and not only show that the country is worthy of the immediate attention of the Government in respect to its development, by the establishment of a military post and emigration route all the way to Washington Territory; but they also point to the day when a railroad will be normal to the then existing state of things, and follow as a natural consequence. The question of making a railroad across the continent is one, however, of no ordinary magnitude, and it is nothing wonderful that every administration has been backward in taking hold of it. When we reflect that the road will probably be worked at but few points at one time—be probably pushed out from either extreme; that it will not have the dense population of the States immediately about it, whence the necessary labor is to be drawn; that there will be no thousand avenues of com- merce by which all the necessary materials and supplies can be conveyed; that there will be but few centers of population whence aid or facilities of any kind can be had; that the road must necessarily pass through a desert where but little or no suitable timber can be fotfnd for the superstructure, it may be readily seen why there is such a reluctance in taking hold of so gigantic a scheme. Besides, if it is once taken up, it should be prosecuted to an immediate corhpletion; for, on the supposition that the route is 2,000 miles long (and none of them would be much short of it), if 100 miles of road should be made in a year, it would take 20 years to build it; and during this period a portion of it, if wooden ties are used, will have rotted out twice. If 200 miles are made, which, considering the difficulties in the way, would be a great deal of work, it would take 10 years to build it, and then a portion of it will have rotted out once. These are ugly features, but it is better to look at them in advance than to be startled by them when loss and ruin shall have ensued. The matter would not be so bad if the road could be made profitable as it advances; but this would prob- ably hold true of but the northern one, for the reason that the region through which the others would be laid can never, on account of its sterility, support a dense popu- lation, and hence there could arise but little need of commercial facilities until the road should have been made entirely through. _ Again, the length of the road would be such, so far as bulky articles are con- cerned, as to make it ruinous to have them conveyed in this way. The merchant- ships, though slower, would doubtless still monopolize all this heavy, bulky trade. The road would then chiefly have to depend for its support upon passengers, the freight of small packages, and the aid the Government might give it by its transmission of _ the mails and the transportation of troops and munitions of war. But still its great service in binding the extremes of our confederacy together, and its important use in a military point of view, would doubtless induce the Government to contribute its utmost toward keeping it in operation. To my mind, searcely second to the project of a great national railroad across our continent, looms up the important one of a ship-canal through Central America. This, it strikes me, is the great political, commercial, financial, physico-scientific, moral, Be : an d religious problem of the age; and, if it could be accomplished, would do more to RAILROAD ROUTES. 241 civilize and Christianize mankind than any and all other projects taken together. It is a gratification to see, by the Secretary of the Navy’s report, that the two officers who were sent out by the Government to survey the Atrato River route do not agree in their conclusion as to its practicability. I had been led to believe, from what I had read in the public prints, that the route had been condemned; but this statement of the honorable Secretary leaves a gleam of hope that the great work may yet be accomplished. This Atrato route the late Dr. Foote, when minister to Bogota, brought, as he told me, to the attention of Mr. Webster, then Secretary of State under Mr. Fillmore, and he felt sure, from the information he had obtained upon the subject, that it was well worthy of examination. This great work deserves the attention of every nation in the world, and, if it cannot be accomplished in any other mode, should be effected by them in conjunction, and thrown open to ships of every clime. 5, 460, Bannacks, or Reot-Diggers ....54, 117, 460, - pa, pe feet Black Cemanlos oe Cherokees... .....++. 464 Cheveriches § 35; 459 Cheyennes 35, 460, 461 hickasaws AG4 Choctaws 464 Comanches 467, 494 Cosninas 492 510 INDEX. Page Page. Indians—Continned. 7 Creeks ...-- Pind a oC yeere abil ae ee eee AG4 Janinied ois ok ae ee as Se eee 389 Crows 34, 460 SA GG Saas ese is ie ener ese ees coe 236 Al AE bc 5s os ok nics FES 34, 460, 461 K. Delawares se Oe i ee si Digger, 30, 31, 35, 37, 38, 71,72, 74,75, 76, 77, 80, (os. | Wwebisb co he his Same 110, 111, 130, a 460 - _ Elk — Hien er ee 34 a L es ——— WE os ee pce ae oe te 33, ome 109 Go-ship-UWtes (Go-shoots), 35, 36, 37, 38, 48, 52, 53, 54, 55, Bou sland 56, 57, 60, 61, 64,71, 80, I vgn Humboldt Hacnevile: .. 5 eae a a idee oe ee eG pe Carson, 6, 9, 21, 25, 27-30, 33, 85-87, 89, 92, 94, 95, 103-107, Moguia 4, 6,9, 13, 14, 15, 16, Wr 499, 492 152-154, 164, 175, 199, 206, 212, 227, 308, 312, 313, 315, Stl 461, 462 ah-Utes (Di ggers) ao ay ee 80, 459 51 arvan Pueblo 54, 464, 4638 'y-eeds 459, 460, 461, 462 Py-Utes, { 9, 34, 37, 38, 80, 83, 85, 87 88, ey 94, 95, 106, 107, 109, 110, a 467, 468 San Pitches 5, 459, 460 Sho-sho-nees, or seme 34, 35, 37, 46, 60, 61, se 64, 65, 7, 63, 80, 110, 117, 460, 461, 467, 478 Tamp-Pah-Utes ..... <0 2 cee cece penne sees ene tee 35 oo 490, 494 ‘o-si-withes.. 2... .-- -.. BA, 20, 117, ey Utah-Pa ~=.04, 30, 38, 17, es Utes, 34, 35, 36, 38, 48, 51, 54, 459, 460, 461, 462, 467, 468, Washoe...--. 9, 34, 38, 93, 94, 107, 460, 467 Yamp-Pah-Utahs 459 Inscription Rock _---.. So eu oben aac 161 Tnstruments 44, 162, 170 Astronomical Si ON a eee eee at 160 transit 8, 43, 59 Barometer 170 aneroid er Sarg eer e Sata 170 Chronometer 60, 160 oy Spam aN mM MeN eren FC Ses mn ate 60 Dip circle 8, 223, 226 Dolland’s reflecting-telescope 20 ygro eter 185 Odometer 43, 152, 154, 155, 160 Quadrant...... ey ROR ge re par Wom eye rc gen ares a era 70 EAN as ee ae 8, 59, 161 se ‘magnetometer seuess em Hieeee. 70,1 Unifilar magnet t 8, 148, 223, 25 Irrigation Islands: 239 Frémont oko Ischia 333 Sandwich......- : AG4 Le ee eer sescn Ml Itinerary . 43 of wagon-routes 149 of northern — 151 . of southern wa; 153 sarees aS Se, aeanied from aie Bridger sd acm Floyd . 319, 323, 335, 381, 475, 477 395, Le SE ee ee Sea ee ee bs Cae CUTER ee een 15 Packie ene ee cee Le es las e ee eee ees o7, 63 Cree ae we ee ce oe ca neee bees 27 Great - Bees 5 Great Salt take. 13, 14, 16, 21, 23-25, 21, 98: 33, 34, 36, 37, 45, 47, 87, ae 213, 219, 233, 259; 248, 284, 300, 308, 309, 3, 314, 322, 323, 324, oer: 343, 436, 446, 478 Honey oc o20 a pcs seseen 8, 91, 93, 226, 316 lege oo es e e eee 334 Tary’s, or Hamboldt 19, 27, 479 Snkels poeos POLS eu s cocoa ese wees ee ea ore 24, 27,316 INGEPOR eo rs Sr oe ee wis oe Ake ea eee 985 OntariO-eeces 3 Sacc8 395 MBH A. oo. eau were es 6,9, 21,22, 27,475, 477 Pyramid (3.0.2... 62-225 oc adiees cas cae tee 2%, =f — Soo SEO CARS ooo SRE Coe eN ee eae See vier ccu. 20, 27, 33, 35, 125, 126, 324, 329, a san’ Bes eee aces ga. Sa 153, 379, 380, 381 Small aii GRO ss cea ce 27, 286, 298, 323, 325 Ee CEE aE Bae ee eneadmaseuiceual 27, 226 Saperior -..... ‘yeaa! bic euarein se Aa merece wale 234, 239 Timpanog OSiie. 25 oe ess peso e eset ses. 13, 21, 494 TPINGKOO si vos oe one 22 Tulare 21, 485, = Urimeah Walker's 21, 22, 24, 25, 27, 33, 84, 85, 87, 477, 480, 481, 484, Utah, 3, 6, 9, 13, 14, 19, 21, 23, 27, 35, 134-137, 250, 298, 309 310, 317, 324, 327, 340, 341, 331, 453, 455, 46i, 482, 487, 9, 490, 492 M. Mail 61 — Mountain Meadow 35, 36, 462 hare ows, Laeben’s 2.0 2. a ac ot Sees sgn 24, 26, 53,64 xico 15, 237, 489 eae Armagosa 32¢ Wash0G: yoo uyoriior acces eeepc ce 90 Minerals ...... 251, 322 g 273, 283, 291, 308 ibis oe pieveu : 304, 307 Alkali 86, 122 A miagnesion gewe ss 324 301, 313, 324 Melon 220, 261, 277, 325 Andesine 804 i 304 ndesite Arenaceous deposits INDEX. Page. Minerals—Continued. H Areno-calcareous matrix ....-- sEveRew sews vetaus 2 SONNY 200s suas s sewed meee es Argillaceous rock 267, ip hee arenaceous strata .... 065.0 seceetvee- =e 26 BAG: Seve ere ety ---270, 303, 307, 335 buses WO ik onc ts cpa aacus 33: OCR G8) oo Ss cee ces “oe cee ne 53, 251, 258, 259, 267, 268, 284, 286, = Caleareous beds 344 ovale: ee) Sis CaS os, 319 jg | P iceece lene ipl Maite ear nese melee oa on wees : TOURER SE Fes oes 50, 55, 63, 117, 121, 122, 138, 296 scum 296, CMIBING. sce Se eee Oe tlle ic en ene ik 277 Carbonate of lime. Sate niece see 260, 261, 283, 290, a . * — 3 O85, is Carbonates an ‘eine lian bua ws SSC ae 284 CUE OODIG AGIO <0o546 ow soe wwe 225, 300, 317, 318, 319 chalks... 261, 298, 329 RANE oie oe ave ods sits eed Seeks one coe 285 of sodium (see Salt). Rt a ee A oa ook See eeaice 285 Citric acid 2... 2.22. 2e- 2 2222 tee eee eee cee ee ee 3D eee a esc gis ed... Seaman aes 257, 284 Neenuceais: Ao. aes Sree en esses 313 eG oo soe ER ee eee ae 258 joint- : Zod ali Se Ee! 255, 256, 299 saler. yOLo, 324 Coal, esi. “9 258, 268, 277, 232, 285, 286, 291, 293, 204 295; 298, 299, 300, 326 anthracite Rk Seuss che Goby Ni wees cuatews 309 254, 255, 298, 300 281, 283, 285, 30 bituminous .......- brown- stone- .... "301, 309, 310, on “9 Coneretions, ferruginous . ...-.. .cses-+s20',-5--- 255 g 294, 295, 297, 330 121, 330 sites: a: 115,29°, 293.296, 311, 332, 333 336 Re coe nwosws opine wel ee seus sevew teva’ “Ooee Diamonds, California ig Cae asl 68 PPE RBG Lp seen 270, 304, 305 _ porphyritic..---.-.. ----.------+------- Dioritic TOCKS 225,004. oo 56, 127 Olomite.. noo. oe ne one + 8 O08; 227, 332, a PIPL CAUOIE ic eas os eh nie wee wee soos = eee es Feldspar -- 269, 270, 304, 305, ante 0 glassy - erystal 334, 335, roe Feldspathic a gS .----. 004, 306, 334, 335, 336 inerals 303, 331 hy Maes ala Capea 254, 255, 273, 303, 330, 332, 333, 334, ptr Fii Flinty siliceous strata Fluorin Pcs re ese se Galena “ o ‘ 323 QGneiss 271, 308, 323, 329, 335, 336 Gol 30, 322, 323 wuritepote Wed 22 Gee La sees oak 323 ‘O11 Page. Minerals—Continued. Granite, 55,60, 77, 78, 82, 97, 98,257, 268, 269, 270, 271, 283, 284, 296, 303, 304, 308, 327, 329, 330, — pac peraeals FOO ee ceaca esas OVO ton Ses aaa 6k ee 957. 994 Groensbolins: Ao6k 260, 271 ), 271, 279, 303, 307; 331, ee dioritic Gypsum, 255, 269, 275, 277, 278, 279, 285, 286, 238, 298, 299, 300, 301, 32! 1, 327, 453, 454 27 GINOTORCED OOS 2 5d 2 NF ee oben hood 75 NUKGS6 2 Ce ie soe ee wee eee cce te eeubtcae 288 Hornblende....... 269, 270, 271, 283, 304, 305, 306, 335, 835 Hydrochiovin eid ceo ei poka cones sc xeowe (oeee 333 lodine 318, 395 Aron: 2 eG eS ee. 268, 284, 300, 326 i sleds cen 301,323, 454 Drown NEMALILG 65 Secu ceoce co ae 322, 323 Inagnet 269, 323 BPOOUIAD yes eles yous een Cae ese 269, 284 siliceous........ pinpieeae ievewd PAS Per ae 273, 308 PG WOUG oO cy Ce eke e eis upkceen peed se ntuiel ee ooo Labradorite inde Goa ecko week cee nee Sa ea 304 be oy dee ou ee 303, 334, 335 BOOTIGGOOUE. fk eee Cee ein tar ee 333 LEBGRYtIG Lio. es 306, 329 Be ie i eae ores 2os80%, 323 POUIOPOUB s 265 es ete ees Se we 323 Lead- haciing FOCKA soc eice ses ogeerr Sie es wees 258 ORGS oo ee ele ke eo Uae caw eau tls sas 454 beige: 255, 258, 266, 267, 268, 275 sea 280, 281, 282 283 Sse 290, 291 Lime 290, 297 334, 453 - 114, 115, 116, 119, 253, 257, pesca 206, —S 6, 277, 279, 280, 284, 286, 288, 293, 296, i 311, 328, 330, 333, 339, 340, 341, 348, 350, 370, 371, 454 MICOTOR ci cs ce Dees 114, 121, 125, 296 highly 2 BIONNCEONS.< cc. 6. ss. ous 288, 290, 310, 334, 341 areno-argillaceous c ad argillaceous- x 252, 253, 288, 31 0, 341 itnminons.: 25... s wersveksec las 0 el 255, 288 compact-.--.-- an nee nene concn teaey 62, 255 crystalline earthy 62, 255, 283 fusulina i tty impure. Panu < Fe ges 1, oe 332 marine see eualy so... Cae kus siliceous, 46, 48, 56, 60, 62, 64, 84, 117, 252, 254, 273, 278, 288, 290, 309, 310, 311, 326, 327, 328, 329, 330, 331, 332, 340, 369 sil a ca Cig hs eee hee 309 silico-magne 333° slaty 327 912° Page. Minerals—Continu Limestones, are sates 120 a SRS o er eee 261 ime eS 149, 272, 273, 284 23 RSD Sia ap pene eis A Each iat paaieri 254, 258, we : argillo-caleareour.., 2... caleareous Lg. = 200, Boo, a. 7 PR ROTIA ae ae ee ae i Metallic ores.......- 286. 6,301 Mick: 77, 269, 270, 304, 306, 307, 329, 334, 335, oe GE ee ies ee erystals Pare eee © ISIC RM oa ner Melee oh gene Les a WeGriabe OF FUGA Sos eo. pe oe ae eee ee 285 Obsidian 303, 3 Oligoclase 269, 271, 304 REP er sees oe 306 SPS NOCIENG oes 269, 304, 306, 307 pellucid. . soe She Sie OF APO oo. eek oc opsee eres re ORO rite OFION oss bic tewwes sl tk case 261 De 2 aos oe a ee oe 286, 293, os Phonolite Phonolitic rock is a Pitchstones ....-.. -.-- .62, 117, 306, 326, 328, 330, 331, 334 Porphyries -.-. .. .. 62, 117, 306, 326, 328, 330, 331, 333, 334 dioritie, 295, 296, 303, 304,307, i 326, 33 31, 334, 336 trachytic, 303, 306, 322, 325, 323, = _ ae er tra Porphyritie ook 43, 58, 60,61, 79,82, 84, 109, 116, 10 Potassa chee SOMMER Ge Bios ee 303, 307, a Pyrites 254, 293, 324 Quartz, 51, 60, 68, 84, 257, 269, 270, 271, 292, 304, 305, 306, 307, 322, 329, 334, 330, 336 300 ee es GERIUI NE os oe uke suis Totten ...... yo ie (uiatisite 2802020) 46, 55, 58, 60, 64,73, a4, 121, 329 Quartzose matrix ........... 304 Rub. = 64, 68 "Salt, chloride of sodium, 105, 235, 286, 299, 301, 313, 317, 318, 319, 325, 326, 398 efflorescences 3238 205,200, 301, 924,454 rock- POMIEDORERS Co oe Loo oes cs Salts 263, O34, 286, 300, 301, “314, 316 eae peer en 975 Oe 260, 280, 290, 313 co u-bearing 204 = 257, 335 ZOSe Slo pcom cy ge ae Sand-roek 278, 292, 297 Dighiy altered terse snewenmitescsecs § 996 . wetlincoont PEE Sep On orth ME Aaa | ions 32 : Sandstone, 48, ee 68, liz, 141, 247, 251, 259, 953, 954, , 258, 263, 264, 265, 266, 273, 275, 277, 278, - 279, 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 286, 288, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 299, 308, 310, 311, 326, ree 925, 520, 390, 99, 9, 93, 249,348,344 o tensa , 125, 328, 336 _ calcareous Aven AO 2,20, 309, 327, 334 INDEX. > Page Minerals—Continued. Sandstones calcareous, micaceous...... ......-- 253 CORN ir terete cca Skoda eee 290, 529 conglomeratic .......- 293, 294, 334 POE ROIOUS ca ie. Sie 255, 256, 258 oa a ns atin cin nnn en eh 294 IMpULe.---.----------+-ee22ee eee eee 294 SRICRODUME 2 etree da ss eee rear APOMUUZORE Se ey a 256, 273, 297 BHYy ee 269, 281, 288, 290, 294, 297, 332 siliceons ...... .... .294, 295, 296, on 327, 332 PE 5 geen peiaanggaear cg 78, 288, 293 meee mei a 306, 307 Phare, AT nen Cae ah pep Re IE RON ee Ven 270 Schiste, argillaccous BPS ae geen eee alee ge 271 cryst Ra Uae ERS vo ces ica ee ee oe 27 WOORGINIOTD ING 5 oes sons 3 an sas wee: 268, 274, 284 CR a ee ek a 271, 308, 329 silico-argillae sis 271 RN a ey an vies Sue ob cou OUT Scoriaceous frock. 2 ees weigh oes ees 84 Serpentine 340 oss 33 Sesquicarbonate of soda...... 285 Shales, 56, 117, 141, ee ye: 254, 256, 257, 275, 276, 277, 279, 281, 282, 292, 294, 295, 301, 310, 324, 343 arenaceous, iin 264, 265, 266, 273, 275, 278, 280, 281, 3, 290, 293, 294, 296, 297, 298, 332, 344 gllacons 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 265, 266, 273, , 283, 28 8, 290, 291, (293, 294, 296, 297, 298, 309, 327, 343 263 argillo-arenaceous’ 25.) soc gi oe, tek cae Wibaminons. .. 1s 3220 yy vis eee pee ee abt OD os eae Sc ee oe beg ee ee oa aickipisnesdipthia tt oT ee 281,2 mad set Peretesse Het 28 EET Ss 9) a So re ee eee ea 310, 325 ‘cisines oe see eis re hwo ws eb wnegiiciy uae 328 Silica PPT eye oem 260, 261, 277 Silicate of aig epee es ns sd ROL, 283 oes wee on ee Siliceous ‘ieteie a oe Sees SOF PIED Sic oee sy eee ri pe a 294 roc Spe ee a 328 Silico-calcareous rock ..... pene ars sey oS. 342 er 1, 323, a Slates, ae ms 55, 56, 58, 60, 63, 78, 84, 120, 255, 2is D, 279, 281, 282, 283, 297, 301, 310, 311, pn 332, 333, 334, 335 ee ED ISUS. peas eG SI tee es 331,35 ONO a nn eno ktw cnn ane mangas andy aYO pikes Welaaek Pech oui. Lec ie akg 283 argillaceous, 27 re 283, 297, 308, 323, 327, 329, 335, 336 CHICATCOUS, «240.0 20. 283, 207, 309, 310, 327, 330 ON NG oy vicsiounweeeat sande tee TOC 324 PUPIIROUE oso peeks i a sha siliceous ae eee “309, 327, ie WOOO aide i cee 324 Spar, calearcous eh oeGe Sulphate of meee lin Oe te ee ee eas ood Pree. ie 317, 324 magnesia, 234, one, 301, 313, 317, 318, 324, 327 INDEX. - : Page. Minerdls—Continued. Sulphate of soda .........-..-..... 284, 285, 288, 301, 324 Sulphur » 323, 454 Sulphuretted hydrogen 317, 318 Sulphuret of lead 323 Syeni 269, 304, 305 Tar Topaz 801 j 325, 326 Trachytes weuce er ee © se ccce teccee cca cans 303, Trachytic rocks 49, 82, 89, 127 ‘Trap-r ! Trona 985 Tufa 114, 138, 295, 301, 316, 318, 332, 334 calcareous..---- -.86, 300, 312, 317, 326, 329, = tr conglomeratic infusorial es en Rep s E EEE woes SOO Vesicular rock , 306 Zeolitic SIPS 32206 Sw eee oo aes sone os ewes 307 Missions, Spanis 21 Mojave country. ..---..----++----- 440, 441 oO ul i villages 491 , 492 Mormons, 35, 62, 118, 138, 146, 217, 218, 220, 299, 300, 454, ABB, 462 Mountains, Antelope 74,75 Bear River Black 92 84, 85, 115, 308, 319, 323, 335 California 18, 20, 479, 482 Champlin, 29, 30, 47, 48, 92, 126, 128, 180, 131, 154, 211, 313, 328, 329, 330 - ? Goose Greek 22, 61, 92 Granite 47, 51 . 328 Green River : 35, 461 House ..- 329 Island 312 Lost . 302 Medicine 271, 311 MeDowell 138, 130, 154, 213, 306, 328, 330, 336 aes 270, 284 pataaaaks ficd daeee eee eee ae 269, 270 ene gah 22. 23; 26, 30, 34, 35, 98, 133, 141, 188, 217, 220, 235, 238, 239, 247, 248, 249, 250, 267, 268, 269, 270,271,273, 279, 283, 284, 301, 309, 310, 326, 341, 348, 381, 407, 436, 441, 442, 445, 446, 460, 462, 467, 477 Se-day-e, or Lookout, 28, 29, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 88, 89, 91, 92, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 151, 153, 164, 212, 304, 306, 334, 379, 380, = 442 NilvOPcccvavonascewnecoess 118 NOWY ------+--- esc vecane aeceee santas 22 Sweetwater ...-- 269 Tac-a-roy --- 64 Traverse ..-- 184 Trinity .-.- 443 Wind River ...--. ------- . 268, 269, 270, 271, 286 Mount Davis --.---.----+ +--+ s2eeee a Floyd ..---0-+ ----+--+- esky ae LOWLY .--- --+-s22+-> cots 7 ee . Pleasant...» .-- ce kemme 253 Somma...--.----+-+2-s gira Seagraiee one pe es Sao N. 35, 461, 468 Page Oa Babs es aig bres ae NS CERES ex tnes 254, 25 Observations MATONOUUOA) . ce 4s oes sae so 5 sae kaduas dune eeees 66 290, 292, 295, 296, 298-304, 308, 309, 311, 313, 316, pee 135, 322 | 322, 324-327, 342-344, 454, 490 Pine, 45, 58, 55,57, 62, 68, 82, 92, 96, 100, 119, 120, 138, 268, We-ah-bah, 28, 68, 73, 74, 112, 113, 114, 116, 151, 153, 287, 316, 322,484 | 11, 213 _ Yellow .....------. 326 | Report and Journal.........----- 41 Pinion 92, 108, 110, 117, 121, 484 Return to Camp Floyd....-...---.-----+----+ +--+ 103 Potatoes 92, 135, 146, 452, 453,454 | Rio aig del Norte.... .- 161, 489 Mees eee eee 489 Palpy Thorttissiicscs cess 446 eet gel aces a es 38, 94 Rabbit-bush 30, 31, 45, 84, 115, 118 io idan MabINned 2 Sooo 5c Sees Sale Sees eseeses 14 Raspberry ..--.-----+-+--+++- 92 | Pel Pll ck. eee 491 WOO «22 22 noe woe nee coon ne cones ware cerece 484 | De San pi ee a en ee ag 490, 491 Root-crops .... .----- -- ---- 2c ee coer ee eenent ee 322 | De San Nic Dette Spoon ke Cee ee ee Wes ee sao seenesees * +. 435 | De Santa eng See ha ee oe oe waar a aak 493 Rushes...... .--------+ 0-20 core eens eens ceceee ee 821 lint. oe oe ee ee eee 429 Rye 321 WIOtids-... < oc sa cosh oc soswedusase Bees 1a eees 161, 489 Salvia officinalis .........-. .-0-.0 eee eons cee 444 | Pransinee 2 ss: _429. 490 oeeR RG ics cag wee eect nwvecspeccerereswerss 446 | Grande rer oe cat Soret eae " 934 reobatus vermicularis (see ipecaasiehete! Ida ogo ae oe % Screisbenry Gs i60 Guns sons cas ceu saaucl snag eae 138 | ta Made ee Spruce, Red ...-......-. .----- --e-0e ence eens 326 | Cia Kole oe a 161, 8 MPEROHOG 2 os cos oH = 5s ose se cees suse weeess cen ens 462 | Tan Piplran. 2 os eels we arene Strawberry ae eee e cece teeeeeereces 92 | Vow MOOS 5 once si conc to ckek oe os cs eu pent anys pe Theloidel ... 22. 6... -2e coe cone cnccee socoee secs 437 Loe MinGgOn «5 «4. -- sooo en sess jae. Tim aber...-77, 251, 258, 267, 268, 284, 286, 299, 303, 321, = pore ree Ie pepe pele corr iy eer 429 Tobacco. ..-. | Bak Auton de Padus: iets. ee Saws Nee ssp See de ewer eee One ee oe 146 | San Joaquin ....-. .00-+ 222-2 2e een e- se sees 22 Vegetables....-. .----2 ---- 222 -eee ee 2+ eee 18, 135, 322 San Juan ete a gy Wheot=c...- op 138-Tie Saban, 4S | a eee cerca ieee 0 Willows....... «..--. 104, 107, 108, 117, 138, 140, see 485 | WG ices scar clea ee 19, oe Yuca-tree ° 483 | River, Amazon......-- +--+ 22-+-+--+ e200 Pond, Rush- 124, 125, ek re eka” 3" Sco ye cae) pee eee “29, 97, = Prairie, eee Goce ee bs eeees Seewies 143, 144, 295, 296,306 pntieie i ee 116 Kan 326 PSE IES eT ah le a ~41, 138, 141, 233 eased. 133, 134, 137, 138, 139, 140, 142, 143, 145, 164, | — Se ee eer oe er a 239 201, 211, 213, 217, 220, 296, 305, 317, 326, 377, 445 hat a ee eee ee 94L R. Bear, ge 22, 28, 34, 143, 145, 155, 206, 211, 286-294, Range, — bec ecw eee s ce vee 239 298, 314, 316, 342-344, ee 360, 361, 364, 373, ne 303, 307, 485 7,329, — 460, 461 aaa ooper. = 200) 37, 38, 113, 151, 211, 332, 333. Bie oo oo ese 254, 295 ni i 98, 36, 37, 129, iad, poste 154, 211, 213, 219 Big. 227, 369, 372, = 380, 381 Hause ee ees ieee 124, 125, 126, 154, 213 NAGO2 so oes ewe eee: _.. 206, 227, 251, 256, 259 aholik 24, 27, 28, 33, = Ps = 64, 68, 73, 76, 116, Buenaventura... ...-.. ---- 19, 20, 492 316, 331, 332, 339, 340, 341, 349, 350 Calaveras AE Aaa 485, 486 Montim .. ..28, 59, 60, 117, 118, 119, 151, 211, 213. 304, Canadian 446 : , 330 Canoncita Bonito....-.--.--------------++-- 161 O-quirrh .....--.----+-+------ +--+: 28, 45, 154, 184 Carson, 22, 26, 28, 30, 37, 44, 64, 65, 85, 87, 88, 89, 90 Pah-re-ah . - 75, 76, 111, 151, 152, 153, 212 91, 92-94, 102-105, 107, 153, 160, 164, Bis, 219; Pe-er-re-ah, 98, 37, “38, 75-78, 80, 109, 110, 151, 153, - 306, 308, 319, 322, 323, 325, 326, 329, 334, 335, 441 212, 304, Colorado Chiquito ines Al Perry Ss aoe 122 Colmrado .....--—- 13, 14, 15, 19, 21, 22, 23, 301, 491, 492 Pine-timber 56 es a see ee ees on Short-cut Pass.. --. 125 ee oe eee ne ne Thomas,45, 48, 50, 126, ‘17, 154, eg 213, 325, 328,329 Columbia : 15, 18, 239, 301, 445, i Too-muntz..... 115, 116, 151, 153, 211 Delaware. ...-------. Tots-arrh, or Go-shoot, 28, = 33, 51, 52, 55, 56, 92, Eagle -. eeee * 120, 121, 151, 154, 211, 213, 303, 308, 329, 330 POVHON oo coe ooo ow a soe ood nds os Sess =e se 253 516 River, Fraser Gi a Page. 238, 239 Wabice Uae Ree erouNrs ove scccute , 239, 446 Grand: 2.222 23, 26, "35, 42, 141, 220, a 461, 489, 490 Green, 4, 4 17, 19, 20, 34, 35, 42, 87, 133, 136, 139, 140, 141, 146, 206, 207, 217, 219, 249, 280, 288, 289, 290-292, 299-301, 343, 378, 379, 410, 460, 461 de jij sig) 23 AMOR Seas CcUsD UU ON Gants onc IPR settee ea el? Mea 42 Hnmboldt, 6, 7,-9, 13, 18-22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 34, 35, 37, 41, 42, 50, 52, 58, 61, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 91-94, 117, 151, 152, 233, 341, 347, 377-381, 460, 461, 475, 477, A478 —. 28, 78, 134, 135, 155, 184, 211, 314, 327 282, 286 feetree ee owe , 291, 294, 344 _ 1 871. ¢ Ke-air-re-gan GCs 540. css u30 pes bona sete 227, 266, 377-380 Laramie 266 MaCKOn@IO'S... oo. ct ct cL 239 M a 238 ary’s (see Humboldt sae ay 15, 169, 233, 235, 238, 251, 300, 309, 344, 414, 460 Missouri, 87, 115 » 238-240, 248, 249, 251, 252, 258, 262, 302, ue ne ees Mojave. ...... Mono New te 25,78 PIERRD io oa ve ness dics funn icant lee 2 Ogden’s ...... Ohio 95, 414, 415, 430 wen 9, 21, 28, 37, 98, 475, 477, 482 a whop-pe 78 334 ot 16, 26, 93, 133, 195, 206, 217, 227, 247, 249, 251- 253, 25 269, 273, 275, 276, 280- , 285, 290, 378, 380, 424 “North, 146, 227, 234, 266, 273, 275, 277, 281, 290, 300, 340, 341-343, 355-358, 360, 369, 372, 377, 380, 442 Bouth . 2... .... 260, 262, 264, 270, 280, 377, 379 pper 283, 440, 446 PED pr ecteres ys were viscce saan sccese us 142 revo - 436 WPNIN va nw wuiia: Wek y pid ake keens acces 93 ed 239, 467 Reese, 21, 31, 78, 79, 109, 110, 151, 153, 164, 206, 212, 227, 308, 334, 380 PUBOOWN oc cock 253, 260, 262 Site eee 363 Lees ems 395 Roseaux, or Malade 28 POONER ics een suiecbekGbih