MussouRI BOTANICAL GARDEN JBULLETIN VOLUME XLV 1957 ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI PUBLISHED FEBRUARY, MARCH, APRIL, JUNE, SEPTEMBER AND NOVEMBER BY THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: $2.50 A YEAR MISSOURI MOTANICAL GANMDEN LABRARY THIRTY-SIX BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS FOR THE CENTRAL MIDWEST PIERIS JAPONICA ED. MissourRI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN VOLUME XLV FEBRUARY, 1957 NUMBER | THIRTY-SIX BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS FOR THE CENTRAL MIDWEST! FREDERICK G. MEYER ann EDGAR DENISON? Baan more and more evergreens are being grown for their year- round appeal. In the Midwest, where few evergreens are indigenous, this trend is all the more understandable. There is an increasing demand for dwarf shrubs and small trees that will fit into the scheme of small modern gardens, and that will harmonize with today’s small homes and low ranch- houses. The broad-leaved evergreen trees, shrubs and ground-covers are well adapted to these needs. Their use can also greatly improve old gardens as replacements for overgrown decidu- ous shrubs, which are not only difficult to maintain but frequently are out of proportion to the many architectural embellishments of older houses. Woody evergreen plants fall into two groups: the conifers, cone-bearing plants with needle-like leaves (pines, spruces, junipers); and the broad- leaved evergreens, an extremely diverse group of woody flowering plants, re- lated in most instances only by having leaves that remain green throughout the year—American Holly, Mahonia, and boxwood, for example. For con- venience, the broad-leaved evergreens will be referred to subsequently as “broadleafs”’. For their esthetic appeal, the broad- leafs are unexcelled among ornamental plants. Some kinds, such as holly, Ma- honia, and Pyracantha, produce color- ful berries; the Southern Magnolia, Pieris, Mountain Laurel, are noted for their attractive flowers. Leaves of the various kinds differ widely in size, shape, and color. The broadleafs are likewise unexcelled in their low main- tenance requirements. They are tidy of habit, dropping few leaves at any one time, and they never become over- grown and weedy as do many hardy deciduous shrubs. In addition, they remain relatively free from insect attack and disease. According to a leading St. Louis nurseryman, evergreens were little grown in our area thirty years ago. Now perhaps a hundred kinds, most of which are obtainable from local nurs- eries, may be grown here; and of these, thirty-five to forty are broadleafs. Al- though Rhododendrons and evergreen Azaleas belong to this class, they are ‘An extensive treatment of the broad-leaved evergreens for the entire country is found in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook No. 22, Broad-leaved Evergreens, which can be purchased for $1.00 from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. ») 4 . re . . . . ra “Mr. Denison, of Kirkwood, Missourn, artist and accomplished plantsman, made the drawings for this paper, and his excellent plant rotes provided many details concerning the culture of broad- leaved evergreens. His keen plant sense and long experience in growing ornamentals in this area made his frequent council refreshing and productive. Cr) not included since they require special care and have been discussed in detail in the April, 1956 BULLETIN. CLIMATE IN THE CENTRAL MIDWEST The central Midwest, as defined for this paper, includes an area extending one hundred miles north, one hundred fifty miles east, and one hundred miles south of St. Louis, and west to Kansas City. General: Sudden change character- izes the climate of mid-continental United States. Wide fluctuations in temperature, long drought periods, dry- ing winds, and bright sun may occur freezing temperatures the next, accom- panied by bright sunny weather and freezing winds, are the chief limiting factors in growing broadleafs in the central Midwest. Winter: Our winters normally are characterized by long intervals of bright sun, especially during January and February, with periods of drying, freezing winds while there is little snow protection. Sudden temperature changes, sometimes with a 30—40° dif- ferential from one day to the next during the period from November to April, are common. Alternate freezing Broadleafs not sun-resistant can be placed on north side cf house for half shade during summer and full shade in winter wher sun is low. at any season of the year. These cli- matic factors which account for the Midwest are all too well-known to residents weather patterns in the throughout our area. Maximum tem- peratures in summer, minimum winter temperatures, precipitation and atmos- pheric humidity are not limiting fac- tors in themselves in growing broad- leaved evergreens in our area. It is the timing of the climatic factors— temperature, precipitation, wind, solar radiation—which matter to the plant and to the plantsman. Relatively high temperatures one day followed by From Brooklyn Botanic Garden. and thawing, especially towards the end of February or March, just as the plants begin to grow, inflict consider- able damage some years. Likewise, an early freeze in November often does more damage to broadleafs than 20 below zero in January. In fact, many plants may be relatively unharmed by continuous freezing yet will succumb to sudden temperature changes. It is largely due to alternate freezing and thawing that camellias and some other kinds of broadleafs may not be success- fully grown in our area. Sun-scald may inflict much damage by causing the leaves to turn brown, and _ the plants to defoliate. Broadleafs which are exposed to sun while the ground is frozen or when the humidity remains relatively low—frequently around 20 per cent in January and February— will sunscald if the water intake from the soil is insufhcient to offset transpi- ration. This condition is accelerated by dry north and west winds. Most broadleafs considered to be hardy here will not tolerate full sun but require One should protection of some sort. 2 SROOPS JARS aN WIRE FENCING know whether the kinds in question tolerate full sun, partial shade or full shade. Providing the correct micro-climate should be the initial consideration be- fore attempting to plant broadleafs. Most kinds grown here require protec- tion of hedges, trees, buildings, walls, and shelter sheds, especially in winter. The shade of a tree would provide the correct micro-climate for growing ivy, or the shaded north side of a building would provide the required micro- PLASTIC BAG re oo ae Cc =e — 1 ae om | - CUUULU UL UOU | LATH SCREEN ED: Various methods for protecting young broad-leaved evergreens from winter sun-scald. Upper left drawing after Brooklyn Botanic Garden. climate for Leucothoé, Pachysandra and other kinds requiring full shade. Well-established plants may be ex- pected to withstand the rigors of our climate more satisfactorily than young or newly planted ones. Aids for preventing winter damage to young plants, especially if it is difficult to provide natural protection, include: (1) the use of polyethylene bags, pro- vided with air-holes, to completely envelope the young plants, (2) plastic wax sprayed on the foliage in late autumn to prevent excessive water loss during freezing weather (obtainable from nurserymen under several com- mercial names). Potassium chloride applied to the soil around the plants in September (2 pounds per 100 square feet), has been recommended, though not fully tested, for hardening- off broadleafs (favorable results have been obtained from its use on Camellias in the South and on evergreen azaleas in St. Louis). For other protection methods see illustration. Summer: The greatest damage to broadleafs in summer occurs during periods of drought with temperatures above 90° F. and with a relative hu- midity of less than 30 per cent, often accompanied by hot desiccating winds from the Great Plains. However, these conditions are easier to control and cause less damage to broadleafs than wintertime conditions. We have learned through experience which plants grown in our latitude respond favorably or unfavorably to the prevailing climatic patterns. The Common Boxwood (Buxus sem per- virens), Magnolia grandiflora, Nan- dina and some of the hollies probably would not thrive more than 100 miles north of St. Louis even with maximum protection. On the other hand, 60 miles south of St. Louis, these same plants grow with almost complete abandon. Most of the broadleafs are immi- grants to our gardens from China, Japan or parts of Europe, although sev- eral kinds are indigenous to the south- eastern United States. The American Holly occurs in southeastern Missouri and is the only indigenous broadleaf shrub of the state. For this reason it thrives in most parts of the central Midwest in full sun. CULTURAL METHODS Soil: Soil conditions for growing broadleafs in our area range from bad to excellent. In some areas with poor- ly drained clay soil, considerable im- provement in tilth would be essential. Most kinds require a_ well-drained soil with a relatively high (40-50 per cent) organic component for most vigorous growth. Leaf mold and peat moss are easily obtained sources of or- ganic material. Especially do broad- leafs like nitrogen, since these plants are grown principally for their leaves. The yellowing of hollies and other broadleafs may be overcome by adding to the soil additional quantities of organic matter and a relatively high nitrogen fertilizer. A 10-10-10, N- P-K commercial fertilizer is accept- able. Most broadleafs grow best in soil somewhat acid to neutral (pH 5.0— 7.0. Soil of pH 7 is neutral; pH values above 7 indicate alkaline soil and values below 7 indicate acid soil. Broadleaf shrubs may be planted near deep-rooted hardwoods, such as oaks, hard maples, hickories, and sweet- gums; they should not be planted near soft-maples, elms, sycamores, poplars, willows or other trees with masses of surface roots which will compete for water. A few of the ground-covers, especially ivy and Vinca, may _ be planted under soft-maples or elms with complete success. Planting Broadleafs: First excavate to two feet deep and three times the width of the plant (discard all heavy clay). Refill the hole with a mixture of 1 part sand, 2 parts organic material (leaf mold, peat moss or garden com- post) and 3 parts top soil. Mix in 4 cup ammonium sulfate per bushel of soil. Plant in soil that does not water- log. For best drainage a raised loca- tion should be chosen, or prepare a bed 6 inches above ground level. Mulching: Broadleafs usually require more water than deciduous shrubs. Mulches act as insulators. They help to maintain lower soil temperatures in summer, prevent deep freezing of soil in winter, and greatly reduce evapora- tion of water from soil surface. An organic mulch, 3—4 inches deep, of saw- dust, wood chips, pecan shells, buck- wheat hulls or leafmold may be used. All of these recommended materials, with the exception of leafmold, are low in cellulose and will require 2 pounds of ammonium sulfate to each bushel of mulch to prevent nitrogen starvation of the plant during decay of the mulch. Transplanting: Since most of the broadleafs have fleshy roots, trans- planting of field-grown stock is best accomplished just prior to the growing season in spring. Balled and burlaped material is preferred over bare-root stock. Plants grown in tin cans usu- ally may be transplanted at all seasons. Propagation: The accelerated inter- est in broad-leaved evergreens may be attributed, partly at least, to several recent advances in propagating tech- niques. The use of mist propagation and improved methods of grafting have been largely responsible for the increased popularity in growing the named forms of American Holly. Other broadleafs, formerly uncommon and dificult to propagate, now have become common. Propagation under polyethylene plastic tents has also be- come a highly successful method. Maintenance and Disease: Home- gardeners today favor kinds of orna- mental shrubs which require less main- tenance than do most deciduous kinds, such as privet, forsythia, mock-orange, etc. The broadleafs possess all their virtues and few of the undesirable traits. Some of the hollies develop into more shapely plants when given a yearly pruning, cutting back four to five inches of tip growth; but hardly ever is it necessary to keep broadleafs within bounds in the same way as for most deciduous shrubs. The broadleafs, in general, are re- markably free from insect pests and fungus attacks. The American Holly, Japanese Pieris, Vinca, and Ivy are the only broadleafs grown in our area known to be occasionally attacked by insects or fungus infections. GROUND-COVERS 1. Bignonia capreolata (Trumpet Vine Family). 5—6 inches. Introduced to Gardens, 1864. A climbing evergreen with orange- red, trumpet flowers 1-2” long, and lustrous, paired leaves that are oriented on the stem in the form of a cross. It is completely hardy in either sun or shade, although the leaves may turn Vigorous bronze-green in winter. CROSS VINE Southeastern United States plants may grow a foot a year, yet they maintain a neat, attractive habit without becoming excessively ram- pant. It grows in well-drained neutral soil and is useful on steep slopes, as well as on trellises or trees. A little-known plant in cultivation. —_ — | BIGNONIA CAPREOLATA | 2. Euonymus fortunei (Spindle-Tree Family). 12 inches. Introduced to gardens, ca. 1865. This common evergreen ground- cover grows vigorously in a wide vari- ety of soil types, in either sun or shade. PURPLE-LEAF WINTER-CREEPER China It will thrive, even with neglect, al- though after several years a mass plant- ing takes on a disheveled appearance, due to the scraggly growth habit. In winter sunlight, the leaves turn bronze- green. Good for sunny banks. Scale 3. Hedera helix (Ginseng Family). 4-5 inches. Cultivated since ancient times. The Common Ivy ranks first among the useful, reliable, and rapid-growing broadleaf ground-covers for our area. Its habit of climbing over walls and on trees gives it a special place in our insects attack this plant but they can be controlled with ‘‘Malathion”’. COMMON IV\ Europe gardens. Cuttings 4-6 inches long, taken in May and inserted directly into the soil for half their length and a foot apart, will root quickly and develop considerable growth the first season. Variability in leaf shape of the Commen Ivy. It grows best in a soil pH 6.0—8.0. resists winter injury, and drought; Cultivars*—MBG Bulgaria’. Leaves 4— thrives best in full shade but will grow 5 inches wide, shallowly lobed, not prom- in partial to full sun. Introduced by inently veined. A vigorous grower that the Missouri Botanical Garden in 1936. ce oe Yiu Bulgarian Ivy at Missouri Botanical Garden. The term cultivar is used to denote the various forms of a plant which have arisen in cultivation. This term supercedes the term variety, which refers more precisely to variants of a species in the wild. ‘Baltic’. Leaves 3—4 inches wide, deeply lobed; prominently veined. Growth less vigorous than ‘MBG Bul- garia’. 4. Pachysandra terminalis (Boxwood Family). Introduced to gardens, 1882. A highly esteemed low-growing, car- peting plant, with light green serrated leaves, disposed in whorls near the tips Small yellow-green flowers aggregated in of greenish succulent stems. small heads appear in the spring. A 5. Pachystima canbyi (Euonymus Family) Introduced to gardens, 1880. A distinctive, dwarf, spreading ever- green shrub, with wedge-shaped, dark highly leaves about an inch long. In green, and lustrous serrated winter ‘PACHYSANDRA | TERMINALIS | (The English Ivy, although widely used, is not completely hardy in severe winters and is not recommended for permanent plantings in our area.) 6—8 inches. JAPANESE SPURGE Japan long-lived plant that spreads by rhi- zomes and grows more slowly than ivy or periwinkle. It should be grown in full or partial shade and in perfectly with a 50 cent drained acid soil per humus content. 12 inches. MOUNTAIN PACHYSTIMA Great Smoky Mountains SMOKY the foliage often takes on a tarnished sheen when exposed to the sun. It grows slowly, but spreads fairly rapid- ly by rooting of the branches in con- 10 tact with the soil. This plant is fully hardy throughout our area and is re- ported to be grown as far north as Needs Plant North Dakota and Minnesota. protection from sun in winter. €D- PACHISTIMA CANBYI 6. Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis (Boxwood Family). Introduced to gardens, ca. 1907. An interesting dwarf, densely tufted shrublet with narrow, glossy, lance- shaped leaves that remain fully ever- green the entire year. The inconspicu- ous greenish white flowers reminiscent of boxwood are borne in the leaf axils in earliest spring. The plants are rela- tively slow-growing at first, but reach They should be grown in full shade to prevent maturity in 4—5 years. ina slightly acid soil, pH 6.0—-7.0, on the north or east side of a building or under deep-rooted trees with additional protection from north and west winds. | SARCOCOCCA HOOKERIANA | 12 inches. CHINESE DWARF BOX China winter sun-scald. The north side of a dwelling or in the lee of a hedge or wall are suggested locations. This plant, although promising, has not yet been fully tested for hardiness in our area. Does best in well-drained neu- tral or slightly alkaline soil with a 50 One of the newer broadleaf introductions. per cent organic content. 7. Vinca minor (Oleander Family). Cultivated since ancient times. A very reliable old-favorite ground- cover which will grow under a wide variety of conditions. The dark green, glossy leaves, about an inch long, are borne on weak, reclining stems which quickly take root in contact with the soil, spreading the plant in all direc- tions. In April and May, the erect new growth and small blue-violet flow- ers, about one-half inch in diameter, contribute a vernal freshness not associated with some other broadleaf 4—5 inches. 11 MYRTLE, PERIWINKLE Europe ground-covers. Iron-clad for hardiness throughout our area, the Myrtle does best in full shade, in well-drained neu- tral soil with a relatively high organic content. The leaves often burn rather severely in full sun during hot, dry summers. Cultivars—‘Bowles’ produces blue flowers larger than those of the com- mon type. White and purple-flowered forms sometimes are grown. SHRUBS SPECIAL USES OF BROADLEAF SHRUBS | 7 Hedges | Hedner. | Gruite | Flowers | to 8 ft. | over 8 ft. Berberis julianae. 7 ai — a a : ee a Bignonia capreolata Red-orange Buxus microphylla var. koreana x Bucont sem pervirens x Elacagnus pungens x Silvery White Ilex augue x Red Ilex cornuta ‘Burfordii’ x Red Ilex crenata f x Ilex ies _ x Ilex opaca < x Red tx pina Red Ilex prea 7 - j 4 x Red ales latifolia Pink Leucothoé acaies Creamy-white Magnolia pane yee Creamy-white, 8-10 across Mahonia aquifolium Blue Mahonia bealei Bluc Nandina domestica Disneuted or yellow Osmanthus ilicifolius _ x Pieris Sane | anwar Prunus caroliniana | Pinkish-white Pysacuniie soreness | x Grsiuecweed Viburnum sevtidaphellaae | Red to black 8. Berberis < chenaultii (Barberry Family). 3-4 feet. CHENAULT BARBERRY Known in cultivation, 1928. A highly ornamental hybrid bar- berry (B. gagnepainii < B. verrucu- losa) similar to B. verruculosa in its semi-dwarf spreading habit but differ- ing from that species in its narrower, Garden hybrid. longer (1'4-2”) leaves, and longer spines. Does not object to full sun here in summer; but needs partial shade in winter to prevent sun-scald. Highly recommended. Berberis juliana: 9. Berberis julianae (Barberry Family). Introduced to gardens, 1900. Highly prized for the leathery, shiny, spine-tipped leaves and the attractive, gently arching lateral branches. Clus- ters of chartreuse flowers, about one- quarter of an inch in diameter, appear among the leaves during April, fol- lowed by bluish berries in late summer. Growth is rapid—plants 15-18 inches high will produce a three-foot hedge in as many years. Fully hardy, al- 10. Berberis sargentiana (Barberry Family). 4-5 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1904. Similar to the Juliana Barberry but with narrower leaves. At the Missouri Botanical Garden, specimens of the Sargent’s Barberry are as hardy as the 6—8 feet. JULIANA BARBERR) China though some of the leaves may become reddish or tarnished after the first hard freeze. Drought-resistant, once estab- lished. Develops best in full sun; shade-grown plants become leggy. An excellent hedge or screening plant. Cultivars—Nana’, a dwarf form. ‘Pyramidalis’, an upright form with ascending branches. SARGENT’S BARBERRY China Juliana Barberry, though less attrac- tive. May be grown like the latter species. 14 11. Berberis triacanthophora (Barberry Family). 4-5 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1907. Closely related to Berberis verrucu- losa but differs from it in having larger, 3-spined leaves and a more up- right habit. Hardy here but rarely 12. Berberis verruculosa (Barberry Family). 3-4 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1904. [BERBERIS ' VERRUCULOSA | THREE-SPINED BARBERRY China Should be grown in the same way as B. grown. A handsome plant. l erruculosa. SILVERLEAF BARBERRY China A densely branched, dwarf spreading shrub, usually about as wide as high. Outstanding characteristics are the spiny leaves with waxy bloom beneath, contrasting with the lustrous green of the upper surface. In April, small yellow flowers, about one quarter of an inch in diameter, appear among the leaves along the underside of the stems, followed by clusters of small, blue, bloom-covered berries in late summer and autumn. Full sun to half shade in mid-summer with somewhat more shade in winter is recommended to pre- vent the leaves from burning. As a low hedge or border plant this’ bar- berry is unexcelled. Slow growing. Does best in a_ well-drained, slightly acid soil, pH 6.0-7.0. 13. Buxus microphylla var. koreana (Boxwood Family). 4-5 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1919. Reputed to be the hardiest boxwood for our area. Temperatures of 20° be- low zero within the past twenty years have not seriously injured the speci- mens at the Missouri Botanical Garden Arboretum. Vigorous young individ- uals will grow about 3 inches a year. Plants 20 years old should stand 5 feet KOREAN BOXWOOD Korea high. Forms a dense, much branched globose or pyramidal shrub, hardly dis- tinguishable from the Common Box- wood (Buxus sempervirens). How- ever, unlike the Common Boxwood, the leaves of the Korean species are dull and become bronze green, especially in the winter sun. Shade-grown plants remain greener. May be grown in full sun, without protection. Prefers a well-drained soil, with a 50 per cent organic content, pH 6.0-8.0. 1S Variety—sinica, from China. Of more upright growth habit, the leaves larger and more bronze in winter than var. horeana. Buxus microphylla var. koreana 14. Buxus sempervirens (Boxwood Family). 10-12 feet. Known in gardens since ancient times. Highly esteemed for the small, fra- grant glossy leaves and the dense globose growth habit. Pyramidal and columnar types are also grown. De- spite the slow growth—about two to three inches per year—few plants we grow can offer more in reward for the patience required to produce a mature boxwood specimen. The Com- mon Boxwood is less hardy in youth than older well-established plants and should be protected from sun and freezing winds in winter. Plant in well-drained soil; boxwood loathes wet feet, especially in winter. An occa- COMMON BOXWOOD Europe BUXUS SEMPERVIRENS | L 16 sional sprinkling of agricultural lime once a year is recommended to main- tain a slightly alkaline soil, pH 7.0—8.0. Cultivars: Some of the hardiest forms come from Washington, Missouri, where boxwood has been grown for 100 years. Bunxus 15. Elacagnus pungens (Russian Olive Family). Introduced to gardens, 1830. A much-prized, densely branched, round-headed shrub, known for its attractive silvery evergreen leaves 1—2 inches long, and the fragrant white flowers borne in September to Decem A form more recently introduced by the Missouri Botanical Gardens from Jugoslavia has been successfully grown in the St. Louis area over the past twen- ty years. Other kinds of unknown origin are grown here. aS sem pervirens 10-15 feet. EVERGREEN ELAEAGNUS Japan ber. Golden-brown stellate hairs are dispersed like small polka-dots over the silvery ovate leaves and branches. Well-established plants are fully hardy if given the protection of surrounding trees from freezing winds and winter sun. Does not object to full sun in summer. Young plants given addition- al protection will grow 8-10” a year. Prefers a well-drained soil about neu- _ tral in reaction. A good hedge plant. Cultivars—Fruitlandi’; ‘Reflexa’; ‘Si- moni’. These forms differ in the size and shape of the leaves and in the habit of growth. pt ED 48 $I 4 ' 3 Bi 7 +4 i 4( UNDERSIDE 4 OF LEAF ED [ELAEAGNUS PUNGENS | 16. Hedera helix ‘Arborescens’ (Ginseng Ivy may produce two kinds of leaves, juvenile and adult, on the same plant and is thus dimorphic. As a creeping ground-cover, the plants pro- duce only juvenile leaves year after year and will never flower. Yet, if the plants are permitted to climb on a tree trunk or wall they develop mature leaves and, eventually, flowers. Changes from juvenility to adulthood are evi- denced by a transition from lobed to Family ). 6—8 feet. SHRUB IVY almost unlobed leaves, and by the de- development of terminal flowering branches. The many forms of ivy long grown as house plants are in the juvenile state. Shrub Ivy plants are produced from cuttings taken directly from the ma- ture branches. A rooted scion eventu- ally develops into an erect ivy shrub. Cuttings taken in July, during the peak of the growing season, can be HEDERA HELIX VAR: ARBORESCENS rooted very successfully by the method a plastic tent indoors. Grows well in of mist propagation. In autumn and any good garden soil, pH 6.0-8.0. winter, Cuttings may be rooted under HOLLIES Sex in hollies: With few exceptions, are borne on separate plants. The hollies are dioecious; that is, their more common condition among flower- flowers are of two kinds, male (sta- ing plants is the bisexual flower, with minate) and female (pistillate), which the male and female parts together in Flowers of American Helly: left, female: right, male. a single flower. In most hollies, both male and female plants are required for the production of berries, especially berries with viable seeds. But quite commonly, a small percentage of bi- sexual or perfect flowers occurs on fe- Li? male plants giving rise to berries, but with inviable seeds. A male branch may be grafted on a female specimen in lieu of having a separate male plant, although this method has met with varying degrees of success. Ilex aquifolium ‘Balkan’ 17. Ilex aquifolium ‘Balkan’ (Holly Family). 20 feet. Missouri Botanical Garden introduction, 1936. Ilex aquifolium, commonly known as the English Holly, is an extremely variable species with a wide geograph- ical distribution, extending from Great Britain, southeastward across Europe BALKAN HOLLY Southeastern Europe to Asia Minor. The form occurring on the Balkan peninsula may be con- sidered a geographical variant of the English Holly. It differs from the English form by its greater hardiness 20 and dull leaves. In our climate, the Balkan Holly is the hardiest form of I. aquifolium known. Except for frost damage to late autumn-grown shoots, the specimens at the Missouri Botanical 18. Ilex cornuta (Holly Family). 8 Introduced to gardens, 1846. One of our most interesting holly introductions. Known for its dense branching habit, lustrous, 3- to 5 spined leaves about 3 inches long. The eh <<) Se - ~ 7 tH y a ad J \ 4 E a 4 n . LAWN 4 “ | / k | of | ( | uN th WY \ { /y ~ Ru : JS 3 . A >—- 4 = y \/ >» ‘al { / g 4 > X | \/ ¥ \ Y { 7 Vv ™ | [TLEX ]|)/CORNUTA] 10 feet. Garden have thrived for the past twenty years with only slight protec- tion. The soil requirements are the same as for other hollies. CHINESE HORNED HOLLY China red berries (larger than the American Holly) are borne in clusters which persist throughout the winter. Young vigorous specimens produce 8-12 inches of new growth a year in well drained soil, pH 5.0—6.5, with about a A well established plant (3-5 years in one 50 per cent organic content. location) can withstand full sun if protected from north and west winds. Young newly planted ones require shading to prevent sun-scald during January and February. Cultivar—‘Rotunda’, an interesting, low spreading plant 4-5’ tall; leaves narrower and somewhat longer than the typical form. CRENATA ROTUNDIFOYIA ~ CRENATA CRENATA CONVEXA ‘ - ? > Vomitorid Size relationships of holly leaves. 19. Ilex cornuta ‘Burfordi’’ (Holly Family). 10 feet. Known in cultivation, 1895. Similar in growth habit to the Chi- [TLEX-CORNUTABURFORDI | 20. Ilex crenata (Holly Family). 2-8 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1864. Known for the wide diversity in growth habit and in leaf shape. Nu- merous cultivars are known, all of which make good hedge or specimen plants. The various forms are fast- growing and are easy to maintain. Grows best in well-drained soil, pH 5.0—6.5. Cultivars — ‘Rotundifolia’. Leaves ovate, pointed, 1'4 inches long, flat; plants 6-8 feet, largest of the culti- vated forms. ‘Tolerates nearly full sun in summer, but requires partial to full shade in winter. The most widely grown cultivar. ‘Convexa’. Leaves ovate, without a point, about 12-1 inch long, convex on the upper surface; plants 3-4 feet with a spreading top. Needs more BURFORD HOLLY Garden origin nese Horned Holly, but with very short-spined or spineless leaves. Known especially for its red berries and ex- tremely lustrous, dark green leaves, which are convex on the upper side. This cultivar produces only bisexual flowers and therefore all plants may produce berries. As hardy as the Chi- nese Horned Holly and may be grown like it. The Burford Holly, a sport of the Chinese Horned Holly, was discovered in a batch of seedlings by Thomas H. Burford, superintendent of a famous cemetery in Atlanta, Georgia. In our area, it fails to fruit regularly, al- though specimens of considerable age are thriving here, especially around St. Louis. JAPANESE HOLLY Japan ILEX CRENATA VAR: FROTUNDI FOLIA ho N shade in summer than ‘Rotundifolia’. Excellent for a low hedge. ‘Heller’. Leaves lance-shaped, about >4-1 inch long, flat; plants dwarf, up to 2 feet. Grows best in shade. Ex- cellent for a low hedge. ‘Stokes’. Leaves lance-shaped, about 21. Ilex glabra (Holly Family). 4-6 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1759. 22. Ilex opaca (Holly Family). 20-30 feet. Introduced to gardens, 1744. Known for the evergreen, spine- tipped leaves and red berries. It is the hardiest of the broad-leaved trees grown in our area. The finest speci- mens are produced in full sun. Fewer leaves and berries result when speci- mens are grown in shade and_ the plants tend to become somewhat leggy. In full sun the American Holly re- mains fully green and does not sun- scald or discolor in summer or winter. May be planted as a lawn specimen; ',—34 inches long, flat; plants 3—4 feet high. Grows best in partial shade. Excellent for a low hedge. Patented form from Warren Stokes, Butler, Pa. Several other named forms are avail- able from nurserymen. INKBERRY Southeastern United States One of the black-berried native American hollies, known for the dense bushy habit, reminiscent of the Japa- nese Holly (Ilev crenata). The leaves are about 2 inches long, blue-green and dull. Relatively unknown in gardens here, probably because the dull foliage is less attractive than the Japanese Holly and other broad-leaved ever- greens with small lustrous leaves. For hardiness, the Inkberry ranks near the top of the list. Furthermore, plants are easy to establish, and growth up to 6 inches a year may be expected in Does best in a fairly acid soil, pH 4.5-6.0. resistant and does not sun-scald in young plants. Drought- winter. Excellent for hedges. AMERICAN HOLLY Eastern United States also ideal as a hedge plant. Young seedlings grow 6-8 inches a year. Does best in acid soil, pH 5.0-6.0. The American Holly is a native of south- eastern Missourt. Cultivars—Outstanding are ‘Arden’, ‘Clark’, ‘Croonenberg’, ‘East Palatka’, ‘Griscom’, ‘Hedgeholly’, ‘Hookstraw’, “Howardii’, ‘Manig’, ‘Merry Christ- mas’, “Old Heavy Berry’, ‘St. Mary’. Many others available from specialists. Insect Pests—The leaf-miner is often Ilex opaca rather bad. It burrows under the epi- dermis of the leaf causing whitish and blistered areas. It may be controlled with an emulsion containing 25 per cent DDT, diluted 1 ounce to each 2 gallons of water; or a wettable powder 23. Ilex pernyi (Holly Family). 8—10 feet. PERNY HOLLY Introduced to gardens, 1900. China Similar to the American Holly in growth habit, but with much smaller leaves, about 1-1'% inches long, lus- trous and spine-tipped. They appear as if plaited on the branches. Little known, perhaps due to its slow growth; however, a well-grown specimen laden with red berries is most rewarding. containing 50 per cent actual DDT can be used at the same dilution. Spraying should begin around May 10 to May 15; two sprays, 10 days apart should be given. ILEX PERNY!I | 24 Not quite as hardy as the Chinese Horned Holly. Demands full shade in winter and half sun in summer. to the Cory- ” Beauty,” and “‘Surprise,’ don varieties from Australia, ““Musha- shi” and many others from Japan, the incomparable dark red cactus “Jua- nita” from South Africa, Ballego’s many introductions from Holland, and thousands of others from Germany, Italy, Czechoslovakia, France and England. As dahlia popularity has grown, so have the dahlia clubs and societies. Some are subdivisions of general gar- dening clubs, others specialize in dahl- ias alone. Many are regional or state- wide in membership. The American Dahlia Society has members all over the United States, working together to exchange cultural information so that all might improve their growing methods. The St. Louis Dahlia Society was or- ganized February 11, 1939, with Mr. Ed Nolte serving as the first president. Through the years the membership has grown, and the fall show, usually held the last weekend in September, has always been one of the most popular attractions of the year at the Missouri Botanical Garden. TYPE CLASSIFICATION OF EXHIBITION DAHLIAS Dahlias are composite flowers be- longing to the Family Compositae or the Sunflower Family. In this family the flowers which make up the head (a single bloom) may be of all one kind, either strap-like ray flowers or tubular disc flowers; of two kinds, usually disc flowers surrounded by ray flowers; or of combinations involving various modifications of disc and ray flowers. The various forms of the Dahlia have been classified for the benefit of growers and exhibitors by the Joint Classification Committee consisting of MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN DAHLIA BULLETIN Types Informal Decorative Cactus Miniature Formal Decorative Peony Pompon Sinzle Collarette tive members trom the A merica n Dahlia Society and five from the Cen- tral States Dahlia Society. The size divisions are: “A’—large, ee medium, six to eight inches in diam- over eight inches in diameter; eter; ““BB’—intermediate, four to six inches in diameter; ‘“M’’—miniature, under four inches in diameter. Ex- ceptions to these groups are the pom- pons, which must be under two inches; and the miniature ball dahlias, two to four inches in diameter. Single Dahlias: Open-centered flowers, with only one row of ray florets (a ray florets (A. distinction * Modified (?). clearly defined, italics mine, Fd.) made floret is a small flower), with margins flat or nearly so, regardless of the num- ber of florets. For example: ‘‘Candle- light.” Orchid-flowering Dahlias: in Single Dahlias excepting that the Flowers as rays are more or less tubular by the in- volution of the margins. ‘‘Dahliadel Twinkle.” Collarette Dahlias: Open-centered flow- ers, with only one row of ray florets, with the addition of one or more rows of petaloids,* color, forming a collar around the disc. usually of a different > “Erica.” by the Joint Classification Committee but not MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN 87 Anemone Dabhlias: Open-centered flow- ers, with only one row of ray florets, regardless of form or number of the florets, with the tubular disc florets elongated, forming a pincushion effect. “Vera Higgins.” Peony Dahlias: Open-centered flowers with two to five rows of ray florets with or without the addition of smaller curled or twisted floral rays* around the disc. “Pink Lassie.” Incurved Cactus Dahlias: Fully double flowers, with the margins of the ma- jority of the floral rays fully revolute for one-half or more of their length and the tips of the rays curving to- ward the center of the flower. ‘‘Oak- leigh Champion.” Straight Cactus Dahlias: Fully double flowers, with the margins of the ma- jority of the floral rays fully revolute for one-half their length or more, the rays being straight, slightly incurved or recurved. “Edna D.” Semi-Cactus Dahlias: Fully double flowers, with the margins of the ma- jority of the floral rays fully revolute for less than half their length and the rays broad below. ‘“‘The Cardinal.” Formal Decorative Dahlias: — Fully double flowers, with the margins of the floral rays slightly or not at all revolute, the rays generally broad, either pointed or rounded at tips, with outer rays tending to recurve and central rays tending to be cupped; and the majority of all floral rays in a regular arrangement. “Five Star Gen- eral.” Informal Decorative Dahlias: Fully double flowers, with the margins of the majority of the floral rays slightly or not at all revolute, the rays generally long, twisted or pointed and usually irregular in arrangement. ‘‘Glamour.” Ball Dahlias: Fully double flowers, ball shaped or slightly flattened, floral rays blunt or round at tips and quilled or with margins involute for more than half the length of the ray in spiral ar- rangement, the flowers 4 inches or more in diameter. “Alice J.” Miniature Dahlias: All dahlias which normally produce flowers that do not exceed four inches in diameter, pom- pons excluded, to be classified accord- ing to the foregoing descriptions. Pompon Dahlias: Having same char- acteristics as Ball Dahlias but, for show purposes, not more than two inches in diameter. “Little Edith.” Dwarf Dahlias: Term that applies to plant size without regard to the char- acteristics of the blooms. There were fifteen color divisions listed in the 1953 classification list; the colors ranging from white through yellows, reds, and purples, in combina- tions, blends, and variegations. —from the 1953 Classification of Dahlias DAHLIA PROPAGATION Root Divisions “Dahlias are most commonly repro- duced by dividing the clumps of tu- berous roots in March or April. You ”> can usually see buds or “eyes”? on the crowns at this time. If not, place the clumps in a warm, moist room for sev- eral days to make the buds show up. Then separate the clumps with a sharp knife into sections with one bud and one or two roots each. Discard dam- ”»> aged roots and those without buds. 88 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN After danger of frost is over, set the tuberous roots 4 to 6 inches deep, depending on the soil type. Use the deeper planting on light sandy soils, and the shallow planting on heavy clay soils. —University of Wisconsin, Extension Service “For the amateur, clumps are better partially divided in January or Febru- ary. Trim out any portions of crown or roots that show decay. On early dividing it is not advisable to cut apart to single root divisions, but rather di- vide a clump into two to four pieces, leaving two or more roots to a divi- sion. These can be again divided at planting time as long as you have one good eye with each root. Dip cut portions in Dahliadel Dip and repack as before. When dividing clumps, tagging each division becomes quite a chore, also these tags must be removed before planting. It is therefore less work to wet the root with a sponge or rag and mark either name or number right on the root with an indelible pencil. This will not come off when packed in vermiculite or even during a growing season in the ground. Let roots dry in air before repacking in vermiculite.” —Warren W. Maytrott in Dahliadel I take clumps of roots out of storage about April 15th and after dividing them start the buds in a cold frame covered with a good-fitting — sash. Gently slope the soil in the coldframe and place a plastic cloth on it. Then place the root sections close together in a horizontal position and cover with about three inches of sand. As soon as shoots appear, move sections to another identical frame and space three or four inches apart. Let the shoots grow to five or six inches in height before planting them in the garden. While in the cold frame, plants should be sprayed with insecticide and_ liquid fertilizer at about 10-day or 2-week intervals. Keep the cover on only when the temperature drops below 45°, or to keep out excessive moisture; however, the sand must be kept moist. The plastic cloth keeps the roots from growing into the ground and induces them to fan out as you would like to find them when you dig up the roots at the end of the season. CUTTINGS Sooner or later the real dahlia en- thusiast becomes interested in increas- ing the number of plants of a variety that he particularly likes. A root clump usually gives from three to five divisions with good, live buds; but the exhibition grower who wins ribbons for “best vase of ten or fifteen blooms, ’ same variety”? must have not less than ten plants from which to choose those blooms. To obtain more plants than root divisions will give, the grower re- sorts to cuttings (that is, the succes- sive cuttings of the sprouts that grow from the buds on the tubers), which after being rooted, are potted up, pro- viding growing green plants for set- ting out in the field or garden. This additional increase is not the only reason for growing plants from cuttings. The use of cuttings makes it possible to plant the patch with young plants of uniform size, which makes timing for the show much easier. Also it has been the experience of many growers that good green MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN 89 plants will start off much more vigor- ously than plants from roots, and are much less subject to the dwarfed or stunted condition sometimes found in plants grown from root divisions. Moreover, it is possible for the com- mercial grower to offer green plants of new varieties at about half the price of root divisions. “Dahlias can be multiplied quickly by cuttings taken in late winter. To develop cuttings, plant roots indoors in large containers or in a greenhouse bench in January. Place the crown just below the surface of the soil. Use a soil containing one part each of sandy soil, peat moss, and sphagnum moss. Provide full sunlight and main- tain a 60° temperature. “As soon as the third set of leaves has developed, cut off the shoots at the soil surface. Place these cuttings in coarse sand or vermiculite, and leave them until they form roots—about 3 to 4 weeks. Place them in a shaded location and keep the sand or vermicu- lite uniformly moist. If the plants become too large for their containers prior to setting outdoors, transplant them to a larger pot.” —University of Wisconsin, Extension Service In a Home Window: Enough dahlia plants for the average garden can be easily grown from cuttings in a sunny window at home. A southeastern ex- posure will provide the essential sun- shine. Four boxes, two of them 8 inches deep for the roots and the other two 4 inches deep for the cuttings, should be made to fit the space to be used. It is well to keep the size of the boxes small enough to be handled eas- ily, since a large container when filled with roots or cuttings in moist sand or peat moss would be too heavy to move easily to the work bench. Place boxes on a sturdy bench or table at sill level in front of the window. Since the bench and boxes will be a part of your living room furniture for a few months it is best to provide neat and well-made equipment. The production of shoots and rooted cuttings will be fast at normal room temperature and therefore it will be unnecessary to start the roots before the last week of February. It will be necessary to have enough good cold- frame space available to care for early plants. Select firm, small- to medium- sized roots if possible (large roots use much space without producing any more cuttings). Insert roots verti- cally into damp peat moss in the deep boxes, leaving the crown at or slightly above the level of the moss. Label each root or group as planted. Pack the peat moss firmly and water thor- oughly, allowing excess water to drain through the boxes before placing them in position in front of window. Fifty or more different varieties can be started in two boxes 12 22 inches. In about two weeks shoots will appear on the crowns of the roots. When these shoots are about two inches high they should be cut off leaving a trace of the new growth attached to the crown. New shoots will then form around the old one and these may then be broken off without damage to the eye. Insert cuttings about 1 inch deep in the shallow boxes which have been filled with a mixture of '% sharp sand 90 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN and '% peat moss by volume. 100‘ sand is good as a rooting medium but the peat moss keeps down the weight of the filled container making it easier to handle and it is just as good as sand. Mark cuttings with a label, pack the sand and peat moss firmly about the stem and then water thoroughly. The boxes containing the cuttings should be placed nearest to the window to get the most sunlight. In about ten days or two weeks roots will have formed on most varieties. These can be removed carefully and potted in 3'4- or 4-inch pots using good loose potting soil. Keep partially shaded for three or four days until established and then place in a cold frame until time to plant in the garden. Keep the young plants cool, but free from frost, well ventilated and in as much sun- light as possible. It is very important that the root stock and the cuttings be kept moist at all times. Liquid fer- tilizer applied weekly to the peat moss around the roots will help to keep the later cuttings as strong and healthy as the first ones. Several hundred young plants can be propagated in this man- ner without too much mess in the home if reasonable care is exercised in watering and handling the boxes. In a Garage: The patio portion of my garage is 6 X 16 feet and has a wall on the south and west the lower portion of which is concrete blocks (four blocks high) and the upper por- tion common window sash. Benches were constructed using corrugated transite for the beds and flat strips of transite six inches high for the sides, assembled with aluminum strips, bolts and nuts. The legs are concrete blocks. A thermostatically controlled heater is used during the cool weather to maintain a minimum temperature of 55°. south end are kept open as often as The two windows on the possible. Fresh air and sunshine are believed to be the controlling factors resulting in a loss of less than one percent of the cuttings during the past season. A three-inch base of damp sphag- num moss was laid on a section of the bench having a southern exposure. Here the roots were placed and packed with additional damp sphagnum, leav- ing a sufhcient amount of the root crown exposed to enable easy removal of cuttings. The sphagnum should be kept moist. Shoots will begin to ap- pear on the roots after about ten days. The section of the bench employed for cuttings contains a base of 11% inches of torpedo gravel with four inches of coarse, clean sand on top. Drainage, so important to the cut- tings, is almost perfect, since moisture settles to the gravel and runs out the end of the bench. Cuttings should be dipped in a hormone powder, such as Rootone, and placed in the sand an inch to an inch and a half deep. Water thoroughly. If cuttings wilt the first day or two some shade should be provided. Cuttings should root in 10 to 30 days. Transplant in 4-inch pots or 3-inch bands. contain ‘“‘witch-hazel The generic name Hamamelis refers to the habit of ripening the fruit of the previous season simultaneously with the flowers of the current season (Greek, ama, together, and melon, apple or fruit). There are two native witch-hazels, Hamamelis vernalis and Hamamelis virginiana. Both may be seen in flower in the Garden now, though H. vernalis 110 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN usually blooms later in winter or in very early spring when in its native habitat. Two other species have been introduced from the Orient, H. japon- ica from Japan and H. mollis from central China. These likewise are very early-blooming, hardy shrubs. They have a touch of red or plurple, which is in the calyx, added to the usually yellow flowers. The witch-hazels with their hardy excellent-growing form and autumn- winter flowering habit are a most promising genus of shrubs. Further de- velopment horticulturally can doubt- less bring about more showy flowers for a time when the gardens are other- wise inactive. Left: Flowers of Hamamelis virginiana. (Photo by Kenneth Peck ) EVENTS AT THE GARDEN THE 1957 CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW. The Garden’s annual Chrysanthe- mum Display opened November 7 in the Floral Display House and will continue throughout the month. This year the exhibition is designed by the firm of Kimio Obata and Associates and installed under the direction of Mr. Paul Kohl, the Garden’s floriculturist. The design retains the color and mass of the traditional fall shows but adds the new features of emphasizing indi- A tradi- tional Japanese garden with waterlily vidual plants and_ flowers. pool, stone lantern and grotesque pine tree has been built at one end of the Display. At the opposite end of the large greenhouse is a mass of most of the many kinds of chrysanthemums grown at the Garden. Hanging over- head are the baskets of mums for which the Garden is famous. On the balcony is a large collection of new and old varieties of chrysan- themums grown by the Chrysanthe- mum Society of St. Louis. Their flow- ers are arranged in a formal pattern defined by stones and iron benches. The greenhouses at the Garden are open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. and there is no admission charge. FOURTH SYSTEMATICS SYMPOSIUM. Biologists from all over the United MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN 111 States met at the Missouri Botan- ical Garden on Friday and Saturday, October 25 and 26, for the Fourth Annual Symposium on Systematics. Registration and a reception for the attendants was held Friday evening. On Saturday a number of papers given by invited speakers provided material for discussions by the entire group of more than 200 botanists and zoologists from various colleges, universities, and other research institutions. The subject of this year’s sym- posium was “Basic Concepts and Techniques in Systematics”. —Basic- ally, systematics is the study of the classification of plants and animals. Originally largely concerned with dis- tinguishing the different kinds of organisms and providing them with names (in which sense it is more or less synonymous with the term taxon- omy), systematics has come to consider as well the relationships between vari- ous plants or animals and to set up a system exhibiting these relationships. Although systematics is not primarily concerned with evolution or genetics or ecology, these fields contribute evi- dence to the systematist. This annual symposium provides an opportunity for biologists to discuss problems in systematics, both botanical and zoo- logical. This year the speakers dis- cussed some of the fundamental ideas and methods used in developing syste- matics. The meetings were under the joint chairmanship of Dr. Carl Epling and Dr. Ernst Mayr. fessor of Botany at the University of Dr. Epling, pro- California, received his degree in 1924 at the Henry Shaw School of Botany. Dr. Mayr, is Agassiz Professor of Zo- ology at Harvard University. Dr. A. C. Smith of the National Science Foundation closed the meetings Saturday night with a talk on plant collecting in the Fiji Islands. The symposium is supported by a grant from the National Science Foun- dation. Originally designed for sci- entists of the middlewest, the meetings have been so successful that they are attracting people from all over the United States. —G.V5S. Houtipay Historique. The third annual fund-raising project of the Women’s Committee was given November 1-3. Called “Holiday His- torique”’ and subtitled ‘““The Mayflower Comes to Shaw’s Garden’, this project featured ideas and decorations based on historical themes. A large-scale replica of the Mayflower, table decorations by various Garden Clubs, an Avenue of Ideas, entertainment, displays of ship models by Scout Groups, a bakery shop, and tables of refreshments were set up in the Display House and two adjacent greenhouses. Chairman of the project was Mrs. Edwin R. Culver, Jr. Mrs. William J. Hedley and Mrs. T. Randolph Potter were co-chairmen. Admission for adults was one dollar, for children, fifty cents. Funds from previous proj- ects have been used to make urgently needed repairs to the Shaw House, the Museum and Henry Shaw’s town house, now used for offices and research laboratories. These repairs add greatly to the life expectancy of these useful and historic old buildings.—H.C.C. 112 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN SUGGESTIONS FOR LATE FALL GARDENING INisH_ fall plantings of trees and Bane Be sure a small dike of soil is left around planting hole. This is particularly necessary with ever- greens for they may need watering (when soil is thawed) during prolonged dry spells in winter. Late in November is a good time to go over rose bushes and cut back extra-long and vigorous canes. Long shoots on Hybrid Tea roses and other types, except rugosa and climbers, can be cut back to about two feet. Short- ening branches decreases danger of strong winds working plants loose in soil when it is thawed. Get burlap sacking or rush matting ready to cover cuttings and perennials over-wintering in coldframe, should temperature drop suddenly. Late in November roses should be “hilled” with soil or other mulching material. Straw or coarse grass or juniper branches should be worked in among the rose tops to screen branches from winter sun. Never use materials that will mat or become soggy when wet. Roses will survive best if given plenty of air in the crown, yet pro- tection from winter sun and sudden freezing and thawing. Late November is a good time to rake oak leaves around Azaleas to pro- vide some protection against winter sun and sudden temperature changes. Before all the leaves have fallen from trees and shrubs make a mental note of branches that are dead and need to be removed—a job just as well left for a warm December or January day. As soon as leaf-mulching chores are over for the rotary mower, clean it thoroughly. Remove blade for sharp- ening some winter night. Drain gas from tank and carburetor, remove and clean spark plug, squirt thin oil into cylinder through spark plug hole and crank several times, then replace spark plug. Clean air filter. Cover mower with plastic or other dust and moisture proof material. Get in soil for repotting a few house- plants. Load up bird feeders. © —L.G.B. BOOK REVIEW Gardening, A New World for Chil- dren. By Sally Wright. 183 pp. The Macmillan Co., New York, 1957. Price $2.75, HIS book is filled with ideas on & how to keep children interested in plants and gardening; but almost anyone will enjoy reading it and will find many useful suggestions for hob- bies. Here are ideas for extending garden activities throughout the year —from growing plants to preparing skeletons of leaves and collections of dried plants for study. The author is practical. Each suggestion is exciting enough to keep interest alive and the materials and methods are simple. At the end there is a suggested reading list, and a list, with addresses, of sup- pliers of seeds and plants mentioned in the text. This book provides enough things to do to keep children, nature students, and gardeners profitably occupied for’ —H.C.C. a long time. MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN 113 GENERAL INDEX Figures in ifalics refer to page numbers of illustrations. A Abies concolor, bark as potting material for orchids, 39 Acer carpinifolinm, 50; palmatum, 50; platan- oides, 50; rubrum, 50; saccharinum, 50; saccharum, 50 Acocotli, Aztec name of Dahlia, 81 Acocoxochitl, Aztec name of Dahlia, 81 Adiantum spp., 63 Aesculus hippocastanum, 47; bippocastanum baumanni, 47; carnea briotii, 47 African House, 36 Agave, 71, 71 Agave virginica, 71, 71 Aloe, American, 71, 77 American Dahlia Society, 85 Anderson, Dr. Edgar, 33, 41 Andrews, Henry N., 41 Annual Systematics symposium, 40, 110 Aponogeton fenestralis, 108; undulatus, 108 Aquatic plants as houseplants, 108 Arboretum, 39; orchids at, 39 Arrowhead, 108 Ash, White, 46 Asplenium bradleyi, 72 Attendance at the Garden, 42 Azaleas, 1, 32 Azolla, 109 Aztec names of Dahlia, 81 B Bald Cypress, 35, 46, silhouette, April cover, 45 Barberry, Chenault, 12; Juliana, 13, 73, 35; Sargent’s, 13; Silverleaf, 14, 74; Three- spined, 14 Barbre, Clarence: Review of Henry T. Northen and Rebecca T. Northen’s “The Complete Book of Greenhouse Gardening,” 79 Beaumont Foundation, gift from, 38 Beech, Copper, 47, silhouette, April cover, 45 Bequest to Garden, form for making, 44 Bergerhoff Gardens in Cologne, Germany, 00 Bermuda U-3 grass, test plot, 36 Betula nigra, 47, silhouette, April cover, 45 Bignonia capreolata, 6, 0, 12 Birch, Red or River, 47, silhouette, April cover, 45 Bird’s-foot Violet, 70, 72 Bishop, Dr. G. H., One Way to Control Dande- lions, 66 Book Reviews: C. R. Boutard’s “Plants Indoors. How to grow and arrange them’, 77 Boughton Cobb’s “A Field Guide to the Ferns’’, 76 W. J. Cody’s “Ferns of the Ottawa District’, 76 Donovan S. Correll’s “Ferns and Fern Allies of Texas’’, 76 Frederick H. and Jacqueline L. Kranz’s “Gar- dening Indoors Under Lights’, 77 Henry T. Northen and Rebecca T. Northen’s “The Complete Book of Greenhouse Garden- ing’, 79 Harold William Rickett’s ‘Botany for Gar- deners’’, 77 T. M. C. Taylor’s ‘The Ferns and Fern Allies of British Columbia’’, 76 Henry A. Wallace and William L. Brown’s “Corn and its Early Fathers’, 79 Robert E. Woodson, Jr., et al. ‘“Rauwolfia Botany, Pharmacognosy, Chemistry and Pharmacology”, 78 Sally Wright’s ‘Gardening, A New World for Children’’, 112 Box, Chinese Dwarf, 10 Boxwood, 1; Common, 4, 15, 75, Korean, 14, 15 Bradley’s Spleenwort, 72 Brenner, Louis, 38, 41; Good shade trees for the Central Midwest, 45-57; suggestions for late fall gardening, 112 Britt, Mrs. Paul, 43 Bryan, John Albury, 38 Bryan, Mrs. Susan M., gift in memory of, 36 Buckeye, 47, silhouette, April cover, 45 Burhead, 108 Butler’s Quillwort, 68 Buttercup, Harvey’s, 70, 77 Buxus microphylla var. koreana, 12, 14, 15; sempervirens, 12, 15, 75 Cc Cabomba, 109 Cactus House, 33 Caladiums, 33 Camellias, 34 Carex forta, 72 Cattleya Bowringiana, 34 Celtis occidentalis, 49; laevigata, 49 Ceraptopteris thallictoides, 108 Ceratophyllum, 109 Cherry-laurel, Carolina or American, 28, 20; Bulgarian, 29 Chrysanthemum Show, 34, 110 Chrysanthemums, 35, 110 Claytonia, 69 Climate, in Central Midwest, 2 Cocoxochitl, Aztec name of Dahlia, 81 Cocucci, Dr. Alfredo, 42 Conifers, 1 Corkscrew val, 108 Crossvine, 6, 0 Cryptocoryne, 108 Cultural Methods, for Broad-leaved evergreens, 4 Cutak, Ladislaus, 33, 41; Patio Gardens, 61 Cutler, Dr. Hugh C., 41; The Garden Report for 1956, 33; Review of Henry A. 114 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN Wallace and William L. Brown’s “Corn and its Early Fathers’, 79, of Sally Wright’s “Gardening, A New World for Children”, 112, Review of Robert E. Woodson, Jr., et al. “Rauwolfia Botany, Pharmacognosy, Chem- istry and Pharmacology, 78 Cyperus, 109 Cyrtomium falcatum, 63 Db Dahl, Andre, 83 Dahlias, growing for exhibition and garden, 81— 104; fertilizing, 97; insect and disease con- trol, 102; Otto Bergerhoff gardens of, 06; planting, 97; preparing blooms for show, 101; propagation, 87, 91; staking and prun- ing, 98; timing blooms for show, 99; type classification, 85; types, SO; winter storage of roots, 104 Dahlia coccinea, 83, Sept. cover, 813 juaresti, 83, 84, binnata, 83; popenovii, 83, rosea, 83; variabilis, 83 Dahlia Society, Greater St. Louis, 81 Dandelions, one way to control, 66 Dawn Redwood, 107 DDT, use on shade trees, 56 Dendrobium Phalaenopsis, 34 Denison, Edgar, and Frederick G. Meyer, Thirty-six Broad-leaved Evergreens for the Central Midwest, 1—32 Ditchwort, 109 Dodge, Carroll W., 41 DuChesne, Charles, on growing Dahlias, 81 Duckweeds, 109 Dwyer, John D., 41 Echinodorus spp., 108 Economic Garden, 36 Eichornia crassipes, 108 Eisendrath, Erna, Gone to Grasse, 105 Eiten, George, 42 Elaeagnus, Evergreen, 16, 77 Elaeagnus pungens, 12, 16, 17 Eleocharis acicularis, 108 Elm, 48, diseases of, 48, spraying for, March cover, 33; Smooth-leaved, 48 Elodea, 109 Epling, Dr. Carl, 111 Euonymus fortunei, 6 Evergreens, Broad-leaved for the Central Mid- west, 1-32, special uses, 12 Evinger, Edgar, The Dawn Redwood, 107; Winter blooming shrubs at the Garden, 109 FE Fagus sylvatica var. alropunicea, 47 Fanwort, 109 Federated Women’s Clubs of Missouri, Eighth District, hostesses and guides at Shaw House, 38 Fertilizing, trees, 55; Dahlias, 97 Fig-vine, 34 Fire Thorn, 29, 37 Floral Display House, 34, 36, 37 Flower-of-an-Hour, 69, 00 Forrest-Keeling Nursery, gift from, 35 Fraser, John, English Nurseryman, 82 Fraxinus americana, 46 Friends of the Garden, 43 G Gardening suggestions for late fall, 112 Garden Report, for 1956, 33 Genistas, 34 Gifts to Garden, 34, 35, 36, 38 Gillespie, Robert, 39, 41 Ginkgo, 48; an ancient tree for a modern world, 72 Ginkgo biloba, 48, 73, 73, 74; male and female inflorescence, 75; var. fastigiata, 73; var. laciniata, 73; var. pendula, 733; var. vari- egata, 73 Glaessner, Oscar, 33 Gleditsia triacanthos, 49 Goss, Joe, on growing Dahlias, 81 Grass, Ray, on growing Dahlias, 81 Grasse, perfume making at, 105 H Hackberry, 49; Sugar, 49 Hale, Paul, 34; and Mrs. Hale, on growing Dahlias, 81 Hamamelis japonica, 110; mollis, 110; vernalis, 109; virginiana, 109, 110 Harvey’s Buttercup, 70, 77 Hedera helix, 7, 7; ‘Arborescens’, 17, 18 “Henry Shaw’s Christmas Party”, 43 Herbarium, 42; Committee, 40 Hernandez, Francisco, first description of Dahlia, 81, &2 Holiday Historique, 111 Holly, American, 1, 22, 23; flowers of, 18; cultivars of, 22; propagation of, 5; Balkan, 19, 70; Burford, 21, 27; Chinese Horned, 20, 20; ‘Rotunda’, 20, 20; Oregon Grape, 26; Perny, 23, 23; Japanese, 21, ‘Rotundifolia’, 21, 27; size relationship of leaves, 20 Honey-Locust, 49 Horner, Nell C.: Review of Harold William Rickett’s “Botany for Gardeners’’, 77 Hornwort, 109 Horrell, Ray, on growing Dahlias, 81 Horse-Chestnut, European, 47; Bauman, 47; Ruby, 47 House plants, aquatic and semi-aquatic, 108, 109 Hyacinth, Water, 108, 109 Hygrophilia, 108 Hy ponis hirsuta, 71 I Ilex aquifolium ‘Balkan’, 19, 70; cornuta, 12, 20, 20, 32; cornuta ‘Burfordii’, 12, 21, 27; 65; crenata, 12, 21, ‘Rotundifolia’, 21, 27, 32; glabra, 12, 22, 22; opaca, 12, 22, 23, 32,1 25; pernyi, 12, 23, 23; vomitoria, 12, 24, 25 Tsoetes butleri, 69 Italian Garden, 36, 37 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN 115 Ivy, Common, 7, 7; shrub, 17, 75 Bulgarian, 8, & Jamison, Richard, on growing Dahlias, 81 Juniperus virginiana, bark as potting material for orchids, 39 K Kalanchoes, 34 Kalmia latifolia, 12, 24, 32 Kimio Obata, 110 Knetzer, Mr. and Mrs. William, on growing Dahlias, 81 Kohl, Ida, 41 Kohl, Paul, 110 Kaltenthaler, Henry, An often overlooked group of house plants, 108 i Laurel, Mountain, 1, 24 Layton, Emmet, 35 Lehmann, John S., 33 Lemna, 109 Leucothoe catesbaei, 12, 24, 25, 32 Leucothoe, 4; Drooping, 24, 25 Linden, 49; American, 49; Little-leaf, 49 Liquidamber Styraciflua, 50 Liriodendron tulipifera, 51 Locust, Honey-, 49, Moraine, 49 M Madagascar Lace Plant, 108 Madagascar Sword Plant, 108 Magnolia grandiflora, 4, 12, 26, 20, 32 Magnolia, Southern, 1, 26, 20 Mahonia aquifolium, 12, 26, 32; bealei, 12, 27, a 27 Mahonia, Japanese or Leatherleaf, 27, 27 Maidenhair Tree, 74 Main Entrance, redecorated, 38, plantings re- designed, 35 Maple, 49, Japanese, 50; Hornbeam, 50; Nor- way, 50; Red, 50; Silver, 49; Sugar, 50 Marsilea spp., 108 Mascardi, Vitalis, double-flowered Dahlia, 82 Mayr, Ernst, 111 de Menonville, Nicholas Joseph Thiery, report of Dahlias in Mexico, 82 Mepham, Edna, 41 Metasequoia gly ptostroboides, 107 Mexico, Dahlias found in, 81 Meyer, Frederick G., 41; and Edgar Denison, Thirty-six broad-leaved evergreens for the Central Midwest, 1-32 Midwest, Central, Broad-leaved evergreens for, 1-32; climate in, 2; good shade trees for, 45-57 Missouri Botanical Garden, Information Center, 38; Systematics Symposium at, 110; Winter blooming shrubs at, 109; the Dawn Redwood at. LOx Missouri Ozark Plants in Illinois, 68 Mohlenbrock, Robert H., Missouri Ozark Plants in Illinois, 68 Monstera deliciosa, 62 Moore, Dr. George T., 33 Moraine Locust, 49 Moss Pink, 70 Mountain Laurel, 1, 24 Muehlenbachs, Viktor, 41 Mulching, of broad-leaved evergreens, 5 Myriophyllum, 109 Myrtle, 11, 77 N Nandina, 27 Nandina domestica, 12, 27, 27 National Council of State Garden Clubs, 44 National Science Foundation, support of Syste- matics Symposium, 40, 110 Nolte, Ed, 85 Norway Maple, 50; silhouette, April cover, 59 Noyes, John, 35 O Oak, 50; Bur, 50; Northern Red, 50, silhou- ette, April cover, 59; Pin, 50, silhouette, April cover, 59; White, 50, silhouette, April cover, 59 O’Gorman, Dan, on growing Dahlias, 81 Orchid, Baby Moth, 34; department at Ar- boretum, 39, research in, 39, new plants acquired, 40 Osmanthus, Holly-leaf, 28 Osmanthus ilicifolius, 12, 28 P Pachysandra, 4, 9, 0 Pachysandra terminalis, 9, 9 Pachystima canbyi, 9, 10 Pachystima, Smoky Mountain, 9, 70 Palm House, 33, 37, 38 Papyrus, 109 Patio Gardens, 61; of Edwin Lemp, 63; of O. E. Goetz, 64; of Robert E. Goetz, 65 Periwinkle, 11, 77 pH, 4 Pieris, 1, 28; Feb. cover, 1 Pine, Shortleaf, 70, 70 Pistia, 109 Plane Tree, London, 51; silhouette, April cover, 59; Oriental, 51 Planting, broad-leaved evergreens, 5, for protec- tion from winter sun, 2; Dahlias, 97; shade trees, 51, 52 Platanus acerifolia, 51; occidentalis, 51; ori- entalis, 51 Polianthes tuberosa, 106, November cover, 105 Popenoe, Wilson, discoverer of ancestral wild form of Dahlia juarezii, 83 Populus deltoides, 48; nigra italica, 48 Portulaca grandiflora, 70 Primroses, 34 Pring, George, 34, 38, 41 116 MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN BULLETIN Prunus caroliniana, 12, 28, 20; laurocerasus ‘Schipkaensis’, 29, ‘Zabeliana’, 29 Pyracantha coccinea, 12, 29, 30 Q Quercus alba, 50; borealis, 50; macrocarpa, 50; palustris, 50 Quillwort, Butler’s, 68 R Rabenau, Ralph, on growing Dahlias, 81 Ranunculus harveyi, 72, 71 Redwood, Dawn, 107 Reiter, L. W., on growing Dahlias, 81 Research, at the Arboretum Orchid Depart- ment, 39; activities at the Garden, 40 Rhododendrons, 1, 32 Rose Garden, 36 Rose Society, help in Rose Garden, 36 Rubus alumnus, 72 Rudolph, Dr. Emanuel, 42 S Sagittaria spp., 108 St. Louis Garden Club, gift from, 34 Salvinia, 109 Sarcocca hookeriana, 10, var. humilis, 10 Scindapsus aureus, 62 Scott, W. F.: Review of Frederick H. and Jacqueline L. Kranz’s ‘Gardening Indoors Under Lights”, 77; Review of C. R. Bou- tard’s “Plants Indoors. How to grow and arrange them”, 77 Schumann, R. L., The Ginkgo, an ancient tree for a modern world, 72 Shaw, Henry, 33, 34 Shortleaf Pine, 70, 70 Silver Maple, 49, silhouette, April cover, 59 Smith, Dr. A. C., 111 Smith, Kenneth, 38 Sondaz, M. L., Langage Astrologique des Fleurs, 105 Spathiphyllum Kochii, 63 Spike rush, 108 Spirodela, 109 Spleenwort, Bradley's, 72 Spring Beauty, 69 Spurge, Japanese, 9, 0 Star-grass, Yellow, 71 Steinberg, Frank, 39 Steyermark, Julian A., 41 Stix, Baer and Fuller, gift from, 38 Sun-scald, 2 Sweetgum, 50; silhouette, April cover, 59 Sycamore, 51; silhouette, April cover, 49 Symposium, Annual, of Systematics, 40, 110 Systematics, Annual Symposium of, 40, 110 T Talinum calycinum, 69 Taxodium distichum, 46 Terrachlor, 39 Tilia americana, 49; cordata, 49 Tilley, Russell, on growing Dahlias, 81 Trees, shade, for the Central Midwest, 45-57; planting, 51, 52; pruning, 52, 56; fertilizing, 54, 55; watering, 54, 55; insect pests of, 56 Tropical Lily Pools, 35, 37 Tryon, Alice F., 41 Tryon, Rolla, Jr., 41; Review of T. M. C. Taylor’s “The Ferns and Fern Allies of British Columbia”, 76, of W. J. Cody’s “Ferns of the Ottawa District’”’, 76, of Dono- van S. Correll’s ‘Ferns and Fern Allies of Texas”, 76, of Boughton Cobb’s “A Field Guide to the Ferns’, 76 Tuberose, November cover, 105; use in making perfume, 105 Tuliptree, 51; silhouette, April cover, 59 U Ulmus carpinifolia ‘Christine Buisman’, 48 United States Book Exchange, 41 Utricularia minor, 109 Vv Valeriana tuberosa, 81 Vallisneria spiralis, 108 Van Schaack, George B., 41 Viburnum rbhytidophyllum, 12, 31, 31 Viburnum, Leatherleaf, 31, 3/7 Vinca minor, 11, 11; ‘Bowles’, 11 Viola pedata, 70, 72 Voigt, Dr. John W., 69 W Water Four-leaf Clovers, 108 Water Hyacinth, 108 Water Lettuce, 109 Water-lily varieties, 34; propagation of, 34 Water Milfoil, 109 Watersprite, 108 Witch-hazel, 109 Winter blooming shrubs at the Garden, 109 Winter-creeper, purple-leaf, 6 Winter protection, 3, 4; methods of 3 Witch’s Broom, on Hackberry, 49 Women’s Committee, 42, 43, 44, Holiday His- torique, 111 Woodson, Robert E., Jr., 41, 78 XYZ Yaupon, 24, 25 Yellow Star-grass, 71 Zelkova, 51; Japanese, 51 Zelkova serrata, 51 Zoysia meyeri, 36 Zufall, Rolla, on growing Dahlias, 81 BOARD OF TRUSTEES JoHN S. LEHMANN, President Henry HircHcock Danie K. Cartiin, Vice-President RicHarp J. Lockwoop EUGENE Pettus, Second Vice-President Henry B. PFLAGER Leicester B. Faust A. WESSEL SHAPLEIGH DupLEY FRENCH RoBeRT BROOKINGS SMITH EX-OFFICIO MEMBERS ErHan A. H. SHEPLEY, James F. MorrEL1L, Chancellor of Washington University President of the Board of Education of St. Louis ARTHUR C,. LICHTENBERGER, Bishop of the Diocese of Missouri : STRATFORD LEE Morton, RAYMOND R. Tucker, President of the Academy of Science Mayor of the City of St. Louis of St. Louis Secretary Oscar E. GLAESSNER THE HORTICULTURAL COUNCIL Clifford W. Benson, Mrs. Paul H. Britt, E. G. Cherbonnier, Hugh C. Cutler, Robert E. Goetz, Paul Hale, Mrs. W. Warren Kirkbride, Mrs. Hazel Knapp, Emmet J. Layton, John §. Lehmann, Francis McMath, D. O’Gorman, Robert W. Otto, W. F. Scott, Robert Waln, Harold E. Wolfe, G. W. Pennewill, Chairman. STAFF |i lv tg Vie © Pag Gi cl (ane Re eee ne renee MeN eRe SR ec Erg Renee Pore Acting Director IDs Fee W coals Ve (teh 10) » See ame ae Rind ae a DRE SRY aR Ree AE cre Dae tet Curator of Useful Plants Flenriyam Ni “ATA WS 2c2c5 cece: ch aoc ak I Se ee es areas even eeeeet esac eoeseeeesncees Paleobotanist Vel yao Bat DOU E: :2x2.s5:.c-cuaicae ete Oe eee ee Research and Editorial Assistant Gl arencer Ba rE east cit OR eee re. aera Eee Rte a ese cee eaten ee Instructor IsOiis Ge Brenne tet cdes ke eet eee Arborist and Grounds Superintendent Wadislaus Cutaks 2. Ate ee ee Horticulturist and Greenhouse Superintendent aero) Wen odes, ee eer eee she ae ea eres en hee ea aeet et arene ge se eye ste cee ecscadeeeeare Mycologist OO) se al DR BC cee ne Re ee PE Peer Research Associate Biolow dB ying @ risccs8.22c2-:-sdusses 12 0ecee2e-: Horticulturist in charge of Experimental Greenhouse Robert J. Gillespie......0.......02..0ceseeceeeeeees RE ear ene ieee ray eee eee In charge of Orchids sears: bt Gl aess mere. eset sere oe a eae a eee ae enc anager estes eee Controller INelMG@S Horner: 26st eee rer eeere Editor and Bibliographer ET Cale; Caen (ot «| PRC one PRR OMPRNR Meee ee CPR eS OR re NCR Ry eee Floriculturist Emmet si) day COM. -2.22-decge ne ceesseeesee casevseitanheetetters Landscape Architect Frederick G. Meyer.............:c0::-::0000+-+- wuos-eeee-e---Dendrologist Vaktor sMiuehilen backs: os xt. 20 seers steer ceca ra ae ara eager Research Associate Kenneth ©: Recker ee eee In charge of Visitors’ Activities Planning Isabella T. Powell Friends of the Garden, Secretary George ils Prim gcc Seisese ook soos ccvestc ce eaeeet ose ceaacaaeuanaaee eaoneansansbancoeeccese Superintendent Kenneth Aw Smithy. sos. ooo Sere sey cppanse teen eeaeleensence ot eer ee ee ee errr Engineer AY) DE Wa tees South oid 1 p00 o coer eerie epee en een eae Peper Honorary Research Associate Prank ‘Steinberg: cc-c---22-2.-.s0ces ster eee Superintendent of the Arboretum, Gray Summit GeongesB: Van Schade ie sa seesaw cestshasadgangvaivesses Acting Curator of Herbarium Meri fon sv Only OCMTEM Keres eect ss cece eae eect aan wsageteaeeets Associate Curator of the Museum Reo bert tiie WVOOGSOM ay arr res ease is 8 cee cance enceisepee tee enee eames Senior Taxonomist SOME FACTS ABOUT SHAW’S GARDEN The Missouri Botanical Garden (the official name chosen by Mr. Shaw) carries on the garden established by Henry Shaw over a century ago at Tower Grove, his country home. It is a private institution and has no support from city or state. The old stone walls and cast-iron fences, the Linnaean House, the Museum, the Mausoleum, and the Tower Grove mansion all date from Mr. Shaw’s time. Since his death, as directed in his will, the Garden has been in the hands of a Board of Trustees who appoint the Director. The Garden is open every day in the year (except New Year’s and Christmas) from nine A. M. until seven P. M. spring to fall and until six in the winter time though the green- houses close at five. Towrr Grove, itself, Mr. Shaw’s old country home, is open from one until four, admission twenty- five cents, with special guides. The Garden is nearly a mile long and has several entrances. The Main Entrance, the one most used by the general public, is at Tower Grove and Flora Place on the Sarah bus line (No. 42). The Park Southhampton buses (No. 80), direct from downtown, pass within three blocks of this entrance and stop directly across the street from the Administration Building at 2315 Tower Grove Avenue. ‘The latter is the best entrance for students, visiting scientists, etc. It is open to such visitors after 8:30 A.M., but is closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. The step-in gate (more or less concealed by the big Cleveland Ave. gate, 2221 Tower Grove) is nearly always open, and there is a service entrance on Alfred Avenue, one block south of Shaw Avenue. Since Mr. Shaw’s time an Arboretum has been developed at Gray Summit, Mo., adjacent to State Highways 50 and 66. It is open every day in the year and has auto roads as well as foot trails through the wild-flower reservation. There is a pinetum and an extensive display of daffodils and other narcissi which are at their best in April.