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NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

TO THE SHORES OF THE

POLAR SEA, ‘

IN i

THE YEARS 1819-20-2]-22. E

€

JOHN FRANKLIN, Carr. R.N., F.R.S., M.W.S., -
AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. : é

PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE é

EARL BATHURST :

SECOND EDITION. Pos

= 2

TWO VOLS.—VOL. I.

net neeinreetnenainisbategeet halen tasinas. ,
LONDON: : a
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. | :
MDUCCXXIV. : 2

CONTENTS
OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.

INTRODUCTION - . a ft re = a ae
CHAPTER TI.

Departure from England—Transactions at Sipcmantaesdiaiae
Davis’ Straits—Perilous wars on the shore of Resolution
Island—Land on the coast of Labrador—Esquimaux of o
Savage Islands—York Factny—Preptin fi for the ied
ney into the Interior - 1

CHAPTER II.

Passage up Hayes’, Steel, and Hill Rivers—Cross Swampy
Lake—Jack River—Knee Lake, and Magnetic Islet-—T rout

Play-Green Lakes—Lake Winipeg-—River Saskatchawan—
Cross, Cedar, and Pine Island Lakes—Cumberland House- 4

_

CHAPTER III.
_ Dr. Richardson’s cor at Cumberland House—His account
of the Cree Indian : - a ~ gl

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Cumberland House—Mode of Travelling in Winter—
Arrival at Carlton House—Stone Indians—Visit to a Buf-
falo Pound—Goitres—Departure from Carlton neem:
a la Crosse—Arrival at Fort Chipewyan -

a2

viii CONTENTS.
Page
CHAPTER V.
Transactions at Fort Chipewy van—Arrival of Dr. Richardson
and Mr, Hood—Preparations for our Journey to the North-
ward - See ee eek a

CHAPTER VI.

es area Journey to the Basquian ges with an
Party—His Journey to Chipewyan - 260

CHAPTER VIL.

Departure from Chipewyan—Dificulties of the various Navi-
gation of the Rivers and Lakes, and of the Portages—Slave
Lake and Fort Providence—Scarcity of Provisions, and —

» Discontent of the Canadian Voyagers—Difficulties with re-
gard to the Indian Guides—Refusal to proceed—Visit of
Observation to the upper part of Copper-Mine River—
Return to the Winter-Quarters of Fort Enterprise - - 301

Directions to the Binder,

Von. I.
I. The Carr shewing the Connected Discoveries of Captains
Ross, Parry, and Franklin, to face the Title-page.
Vor. IL.
II. Route from York Factory

B25: Isle 4 la Crosse To be placed at the end. -
ly. Slave Lake

INTRODUCTION.

His Majesty’s Government having deter-
mined upon sending an Expedition from the
Shores of Hudson’s Bay by land, to explore
the Northern Coast of America, from the
Mouth of the Copper-Mine River to the
eastward, I had the honour to be appointed
to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the
recommendation of the Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty ; who, at the same
time, nominated Doctor John Richardson, a
Surgeon in the Royal Navy, Mr. George
Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty
Midshipmen, to be joined with me in the
Expedition. My instructions, in substance,
informed me that the main object of the
Expedition was that of determining the
_ latitudes and longitudes of the Northern

x INTRODUCTION.

Coast of North America, and the trending
of that Coast from the Mouth of the Cop-
per-Mine River to the eastern extremity of
that Continent; that it was left for me
to determine, according to circumstances,
whether it might be most advisable to
proceed, at once, directly to the northward
till I arrived at the sea-coast, and proceed
westerly towards the Copper-Mine River ;
or advance, in the first instance, by the
usual route to the Mouth of the Copper-
Mine River, and from thence easterly till I
should arrive at the eastern extremity of
that Continent; that, in the adoption of
either of these plans, I was to be guided
by the advice and information which I
should receive from the wintering servants
of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who would
be instructed by their employers to co-ope-
tate cordially in the prosecution of the
objects of the Expedition, and who would
provide me with the necessary escort of
Indians to act as guides, interpreters, game-
killers, §e. ; and also with such articles of
clothing, ammunition, snow-shoes, presents,

INTRODUCTION. x1

§c., as should be deemed expedient for me
to take. That as another principal object
of the Expedition was to amend the very
defective geography of the northern part
of North America, I was to be very care-
ful to ascertain correctly the latitude and
longitude of every remarkablespot upon our
route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers,
headlands, §c., that might occur along the
Northern Shore of North America. That,
in proceeding along the coast, I should
erect conspicuous marks at places where
ships might enter, or to which a boat could
be sent; and to deposit information as to
the nature of the coast for the use of Lieu-
tenant Parry. That, in the journal of our
route, I should register the temperature of
the air, at least three times in every twenty-
four hours; together with the state of the
wind and weather, and any other meteoro-
logical phenomenon. That I should not
neglect any opportunity of observing and
noting down the dip and variation of the
magnetic needle, and the intensity of the
magnetic force; and should take particular
2

Ril INTRODUCTION.

notice whether any, and what kind or degree
of, influence the Aurora Borealis might ap-
pear to exert on the magnetic needle; and
to notice whether that phenomenon was
attended with any noise; and to make any
other observations that might be likely
to tend to the further developement of
its cause, and the laws by which it is
governed. ap

Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist
me in all the observations above-mentioned,
and to make drawings of the land, of the
natives, and of the various objects of natural
history ; and, particularly, of such as Dr.
Richardson, who, to his professional duties,
was to add that of naturalist, might con-
sider to be most curious and interesting.

I was instructed, on my arrival at, or
near, the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River,
to make every inquiry as to the situation
of the spot from whence native copper had
been brought down by the Indians to the
Hudson's Bay establishment, and to visit
and explore the place in question; in order
that Dr. Richardson might be enabled to

oot

. INTRODUCTION, Xill

make such observations as might be useful
in a commercial point of view, or interesting
to the science of mineralogy.

From Joseph Berens, Esq., the Governor
of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and the
gentlemen of the Committee, I received all
kinds of assistance and information, com-
municated in the most friendly manner pre-
vious to my leaving England ; and I had
the gratification of perusing the orders to
their agents and servants in North America,
containing the fullest directions to promote,
by every means, the progress of the Expe-
dition; and I most cheerfully avail myself
of this opportunity of expressing my gra-
titude to these Gentlemen for their personal
kindness to myself and .the other officers,
as well as for the benefits rendered by them
to the Expedition ; and the same sentiment
is due towards the Gentlemen of the North-
West Company, both in England and Ame-
rica, more particularly to Simon M:Gil-
livray, Esq., of London, from whom I re-
ceived much useful information, and cordial
letters of recommendation to the partners

—

xiv INTRODUCTION, _

and agents of that Company, resident on
our line of route.

A short time before I left London I had
the pleasure and advantage of an interview
with the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who
_ Was one of the two persons who had visited
the coast we were to explore. He afforded
‘me, in the most open and kind manner,

much valuable information and advice.

The provisions, instruments, and other
articles, of which I had furnished a list, by
direction of the Lords Commissioners of
the Admiralty, were embarked on board
the Hudson’s Bay Company’s ship Prince
of Wales, appointed by the committee to
convey the Expedition to York Factory,
their principal establishment in Hudson’s
Bay.

It will be seen, in the course of the Nar-
rative how much reason I had to be satisfied
with, and how great my obligations are
to, all the Gentlemen who were associated
with me in the Expedition, whose kindness,
good conduct, and cordial co-operation,
have made an impression which can never

INTRODUCTION. XV

be effaced from my mind. The unfortunate
death of Mr. Hood is the only drawback
which I feel from the otherwise unalloyed
pleasure I derived from reflecting on that
cordial unanimity which at all times pre-
vailed among us in the days of sunshine,
and in those of “ sickness and sorrow.”

To Dr. Richardson, in particular, the
exclusive merit is due of whatever collec-
tions and observations have been made in
the department of Natural History; and I
ai indebted to him in no small degree for
his friendly advice and assistance in the
preparation of the present narrative.

The charts and drawings were made by
Lieutenant Back, and the late Lieutenant
Hood. Both these gentlemen cheerfully
and ably assisted me in making the ob-
servations and in the daily conduct of
the Expedition. The observations made
by Mr. Hood, on the various phenomena
presented by the Aurora Borealis*, will, it
is presumed, present to the reader some —
new facts connected with this meteor. Mr.

* Given in the Appendix to the Quarto Edition.

XV1L INTRODUCTION..

Back was mostly: prevented from turning
his attention to objects of science by the
many severe duties-which were required of
him, and which obliged him to travel almost
constantly every winter that we passed in
America; to his personal exertions, indeed,
is mainly to be attributed our final safety.
And here I must be permitted to pay the
tribute, which is due tothe fidelity, exertion,
and uniform good conduct in the most
trying situations, of John Hepburn, an
English seaman, and our only attendant, to
whom in the latter part of our journey we
owe, under Divine Providence, the preser-
vation of the lives of some of the party.
I ought, perhaps, to crave the reader’s
“Indulgence towards the defective style of
this work, which I trust will not be refused
when it is considered that mine has been a
‘jife of constant employment in my profes-
sion from a very early age. I have been
prompted to venture upon the task solely
by an imperious sense of duty, when called
upon to undertake it.
In the ensuing Narrative the notices of

“

INTRODUCTION. XVil

the moral: condition of the Indians as in-
fluenced by the conduct of the traders to-
wards them, refer entirely to the state in
which it existed during our progress through
the country; but lest I should have been
mistaken respecting the views of the Hud-
son's Bay Company on these points, I
gladly embrace the opportunity which a
Second Edition affords me of stating that
the junction of the two Companies has
enabled the Directors to put in practice
the improvements which I have reason to
believe they have long contemplated. They
have provided for religious instruction by
the appointment of two clergymen of the
established church, under whose direction -
school-masters and mistresses are to be

placed at such stations as afford the means
of support for the establishment of schools.

The offspring of the voyagers and labourers.

are to be educated chiefly at the expetise,
of the Company ; and such of the Indian |
children as their parents may wish to send
to these schools, are to be instructed,
clothed, and maintained at the expense of

XVill INTRODUCTION. “

the Church Missionary Society, which has
already allotted a considerable sum for
these purposes, and it has also sent out
teachers who are to act under the super-
intendence of the Rev. Mr. West, the prin-
cipal chaplain of the Company.

We had the pleasure of meeting this
gentleman at York Factory, and witnessed
with peculiar delight the great benefit
which had already marked his zealous and
judicious conduct. Many of the traders,
and of the servants of the Company, have
been induced to marry the women with
whom they had cohabited; a material step
towards the improvement of the females
in that country.

Mr. West, under the sanction of the
Directors, has also promoted a subscription
for the distribution of the Bible in every
part of the country where the Company’s
Fur Trade has extended, and which has

-met with very general support from the
resident chief factors, traders, and clerks. |
The Directors of the Company are con-
tinuing to reduce the distribution of spirits

INTRODUCTION. Kix

gradually among the Indians, as well as
their own servants, with a view to the
entire disuse of them as soon as this most
desirable object can be accomplished. They
have likewise issued orders for the cultiva-
tion of the ground at each of the posts,
by which means the residents will be far
less exposed to famine whenever through
the scarcity of animals, the sickness of the
Indians, or any other cause, their supply of
meat may fail.

It is to be hoped that intentions, so dear
to every humane and pious mind, will,
through the blessing of God, méet with
the utmost success.

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

OF

THE POLAR SEA.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England — Transactions at Stromness — Enter
Davis’ Straits—Perilous Situation on the Shore of Resolution
Island—Land on the Coast of Labrador—Esquimaux of Savage
Islands—York Factory—Preparations for the Journey into the
Interior.

May. ON Sunday, the 23d of May, the whole
of our party embarked at Gravesend on board
the ship Prince of Wales, belonging to the Hud-
son’s Bay Company, just as she was in the act of
getting under weigh, with her consorts the Ed-
dystone and Wear. The wind’being unfavour-
able, on the ebb tide being finished, the vessels
were again ‘anchored; but they weighed in the
night, and beat down as far as the Warp, where
they were detained two days by a strong east-
erly wind.

_.» Having learned from some of the passengers,

: gre were the trading Officers of the Company,

that the arrival of the ships at either of ei esta-
Vor. I.

2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

blishments in Hudson’s Bay, gives full occupation
to all the boatmen in their service, who are re-
quired to convey the necessary stores to the dif.
ferent posts in the interior; that it was very pro-
bable a sufficient number of men might not be
procured from this indispensable duty ; and, con-
sidering that any delay at York Factory would
materially retard our future operations, I wrote
to the Under Secretary of State, requesting his
permission to provide a few well-qualified steers-
men and bowmen at Stromness, to assist our
proceedings in the former part of our journey
into the interior.

May 30,—The easterly wind, which had re-
tarded the ship’s progress so much, that we had
only reached Hollesly Bay after a week’s beating
about, changed to W.S.W. soon after that an-
chorage had been gained. The vessels instantly
weighed, and, by carrying all sail, arrived in
Yarmouth Roads at seven P. M.; the pilots were
landed, and our course was continued through the
anchorage. At midnight, the wind became light
and variable, and gradually drew round to the
N.W.; and, as the sky indicated unsettled wea-
ther, and the wind blew from an unfavourable
quarter for ships upon that coast, the commander
bore up again for Yarmouth, and anchored at
eight A.M.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 3

This return afforded us, at least, the oppor-
tunity of comparing the longitude of Yarmouth
church, as shewn by our chronometers, with its
position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigono-

metrical Survey ; and, it was satisfactory to find,
- from the small difference in their results, that the
chronometers had not experienced any alteration
in their rates, in consequence of their being
changed from an horizontal position in a room, to
that of being carried in the pocket.

_ An untoward circumstance, while at this an-
chorage, cast a damp on our party at this early
period of the voyage. Emboldened by the de-
cided appearance of the N.W. sky, several of
our officers and passengers ventured on shore for
a few hours ; but, we had not been long ‘in the
town before the wind changed suddenly to S.E.,
which caused instant motion in the large fleet
collected at this anchorage. The commander of
our ship intimated his intention of proceeding to
sea, by firing guns ; and the passengers hastened
to embark. Mr. Back, however, had unfortu-
nately gone upon some business to a house two
or three miles distant from Yarmouth, along the
line of the coast; from whence he expected to be
able to observe the first symptoms of moving,
which the vessels might make. By some acci-
dent, however, he did not make his appearance _
Be .

.

4 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

before the captain was obliged to make sail, that
he might get the ships through the intricate pas-
sage of the Cockle Gat before it was dark. For-
tunately, through the kindness of Lieutenant
Hewit, of the Protector, I was enabled to convey
a note to our missing companion, desiring him to
proceed immediately by the coach to the Pent-
land Firth, and from thence across the passage to
Stromness, which appeared to be the only way of
proceeding by which he could rejoin the party.

- June 3.—The wind continuing favourable after
leaving Yarmouth, about nine this morning we
passed the rugged and bold _ projecting rock,
termed Johnny Groat’s house, and soon after-
wards Duncansby Head, and then entered the
Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the main
shore of Scotland, and steered the ship in safety
between the different islands, to the outer anchor-
age at Stromness, though the atmosphere was
too dense for distinguishing any of the objects on
the land. Almost immediately after the ship
had anchored, the wind changed to N.W., the
rain ceased, and a sight was then first obtained
_ of the neighbouring islands, and of the town of
", Stromness, the latter of which, from this point of
view, and at this distance, presented a pleasing
appearance.

Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson’s Bay

OF THE POLAR SEA. 5

Company. at this place, undertook to communi-
cate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the dif-
ferent parishes, by a notice on the church-door,
which he said was the surest and most direct
channel for the conveyance of information to the
lower classes in these islands, as they invariably
attend divine service there every Sunday. He
informed me that the kind of men we were in
want of would be difficult to procure, on account
of the very increased demand for boatmen for the
herring fishery, which had recently been esta-
blished on the shores of these islands; that last
year, sixty boats and four hundred men only were
employed in this service, whereas now there were
three hundred boats and twelve hundred men
engaged ; and that owing to this unexpected
addition to the fishery, he had been unable to
provide the number of persons required for the
service of the Hudson’s Bay Company. . This
was unpleasant information, as it increased the
apprehension of our being detained at York Fac-
tory the whole winter, if boatmen were not taken
from hence. I could not therefore hesitate in re-
questing Mr, Geddes to engage eight or ten men
well adapted for our service, on such terms as he
could procure them, though the Secretary of
State’s permission had not yet reached me.

Next to a supply of boatmen, our attention

6 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

was directed towards the procuring of a house
conveniently situated for trying the instruments,
and examining the rates of the chronometers.
Mr. Geddes kindly offered one of his, which,
though in an unfinished state, was readily ac-
cepted, being well situated for our purpose, as it
was placedon an eminence, had a southern aspect,
and was at a sufficient distance from the town to
secure us from frequent interruption. Another
advantage was its proximity to the Manse, the
residence of the Rev. Mr. Clouston, the worthy
and highly respected minister of Stromness ;
whose kind hospitality and the polite attention
of his family, the party experienced almost daily
during their stay.

For three days the weather was unsettled, and
few observations could be made, except for the
dip of the needle, which was ascertained to be
74° 37 48”, on which occasion a difference of
eight degrees and a half was perceived between
the observations, when the face of the instrument _
was changed from the east to the west, the
amount being the greatest when it was placed
with the face to the west. But, on the 8th, a
westerly wind caused a cloudless sky, which
enabled us to place the transit instrument. in the
meridian, and to ascertain the variation of the
compass, to be 27° 50' west. The sky becoming

OF THE POLAR SEA. 7

cloudy in the afternoon, prevented our obtaining
the corresponding observations to those gained
in the morning ; and the next day an impervious
fog obscured the sky until noon. On the even-
ing of this day, we had the gratification of wel-
coming our absent companion, Mr. Back, His
return to our society was hailed with sincére
pleasure by every one, and removed a weight of
anxiety from my mind. It appears that he had
come down to the beach at Caistor, just as the
ships were passing by, and had applied to some
boatmen to convey him on board, which might
have been soon accomplished, but they, discover-
ing the emergency of his case, demanded an ex-
orbitant reward which he was not at the instant
prepared to satisfy ; and, in consequence, they
positively refused to assist him. Though he had
travelled nine successive days, almost without
rest, he could not be prevailed upon to withdraw
from the agreeable scene of a ball-room, in which
he joined us, until a late hour. ae

On the 10th, the rain having ceased, the ob-
servations for ascertaining the dip of the needle
were repeated ; and the results, compared with
the former ones, gave a mean of 74° 33’ 20”,
Nearly the same differences were remarked in
reversing the face of the instrument as before.
An attempt was also made to ascertain the mag-

8 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

netic force, but the wind blew too strong for
procuring the observation to any degree of ac-
curacy. ;

The fineness of the following day induced us
to set up the different instruments for examina-
tion, and to try how nearly the observations
made by each of them would agree; but a squall
passed over just before noon, accompanied by
heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable oppor-
tunity was entirely lost. In the intervals be-
tween the observations, and at every opportunity,
my companions were occupied in those pursuits
to which their attention had been more particu-
larly directed in my instructions, Whilst Dr.
Richardson was collecting and examining the
various specimens of marine plants, of which
these islands furnish an abundant and diversified
_ Supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and
Sketches of the surrounding scenery, which is
extremely picturesque in many parts, and wants
only the addition of trees to make it beautiful.
The hills present the bold. character of rugged
sterility, whilst the valleys, at this season, are
clothed with luxuriant verdure.

It was not till the 14th, that, by appointment,
the boatmen were to assemble at the house of
Mr. Geddes, to engage to accompany the Expe-
dition. Several persons collected, but to my

OF THE POLAR SEA. 9

great mortification, I found they were all so
strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension,
either that great danger would attend the service,
or that we should carry them further than they
would agree to go, that not a single man would
engage with us; some of them, however, said
they would consider the subject, and give me an
answer on the following day. This indecisive
conduct was extremely annoying to me, espe-
cially as the next evening was fixed for the
departure of the ships.

At the appointed time on the following morn-
ing, four men only presented themselves, and
these, after much hesitation, engaged to accom-
pany the Expedition to Fort Chipewyan, if they
should be required so far. The bowmen and
‘Steersmen were to receive forty pounds’ wages
annually, and the middle men thirty-five pounds.
They stipulated to be sent back to the Orkney
Islands, free of expense, and to receive their pay
until the time of arrival. Only these few men
could be procured, although our requisition had
been sent to almost every island, even as far as
the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was
much amused with the extreme caution these
men used before they would sign the agreement ;
they minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed
every circumstance, looked narrowly into the

10 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to
the prospect of return. Such caution on the part
of the northern mariners forms a singular contrast
with the ready and thoughtless manner in which
an English seaman enters upon any enterprise,
however hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring
to know where he is going, or what he is going
about. 3 ,

The brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian
Missionary Society, and bound to their settlement
at Nain, on the coast of Labrador, was lying at
anchor. With the view of collecting some Esqui-
maux words and sentences, or gaining any infor-
mation respecting the manners and habits of that
people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her
a visit. We found the passengers, who were
going out as Missionaries, extremely disposed to
communicate ; but as they only spoke the Ger-
man and Hsquimaux languages, of which we
were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily
much confined: by the aid, however, of an Esqui-
maux and German Dictionary, some few words
were collected, which we considered might be
useful. There were on board a very interesting
girl, and a young man, who were natives of Disco,
in Old Greenland ; both of them had fair com-
plexions, rather handsome features, and a lively
manner; the former was going to be married to

OF THE POLAR SEA. Bi

a resident Missionary, and the latter to officiate
in that character. The commander of the vessel
gave me a translation of the Gospel of St. John in
the Esquimaux language, printed by the Mora-
vian Society in London,

June 16.—The wind being unfavourable for
sailing I went on shore with Dr. Richardson, and
took several lunar observations at the place of
our former residence. The result obtained was,
latitude 58° 56’ 56” N., longitude 3° 17’ 55" W.,
variation 27° 50' W. ; dip of the magnetic needle,
74° 33° 20". In the afternoon the wind changed
in a squall some points towards the north, and
the Prince of Wales made the preparatory signal
for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an
hour too early for the tide ; as soon as this served
_ we entered into the passage between Hoy and
Pomona, and had to beat through against a very
heavy swell, which the meeting of a weather tide
and a ‘strong breeze had occasioned.
langerous rocks lie near the Pomona
dust and on this side also the tide appeared to
ran with ms — strength. On clearing the

yjecting points of Hoy and Pomona,

siete our repute to Hudson’s Bay—having the
Eddystone, Wear, and Harmony Missionary brig,
im conypany.

12 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The comparisons of the chronometers this day
indicated that Arnold’s Nos. 2148 and 2]47 , had
slightly changed their rates since they had been
brought on board ; fortunately the rate of the for-
mer seems to have increased nearly in the same
ratio as the other has lost, and the mean longi-
tude will not be materially affected.

Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic, I
issued a general memorandum for the guidance
of the officers, during the prosecution of the ser-
vice on which we were engaged, and communi-
cated to them the several points of information
that were expected from us by my instructions,
T also furnished them with copies of the signals
which had been agreed upon between Lieutenant
Parry and myself, to be used in the event of our
reaching the northern coast of America, and fall-
ing in with each other. ;

At the end of the month of June, our progress
was found to have been extremely slow, owing to
a determined N.W. wind and much sea, We had
numerous birds hovering round the ship; princi-
pally fulmars ¢ procellaria glacialis,) and shear-
waters, (procellaria puffinus, ) and not unfrequently
saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which
the Greenland seamen term finners from their
large dorsal fin. Some porpoises occasionally
appeared, and whenever they did, the crew were

OF THE POLAR SEA. 13

sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy
change in the wind, which had been so vexatiously
contrary, but they were disappointed in every in-
stance.

Thursday, July 1.—The month of July set in -
more favourably; and, aided by fresh breezes,
we advanced rapidly to the westward, attended
daily by numerous fulmars and shearwaters.
The Missionary brig had parted company on the
22d of June. We passed directly over that part
_ of the ocean where the “‘ Sunken Land of Buss”
is laid down in the old, and continued in the ‘Ad-
miralty charts. Mr. Bell, the commander of the
Eddystone, informed me, that the pilot who
brought his ship down the Thames, told him that
he had gained soundings in twelve feet some-
where hereabout ; and I am rather inclined to
. attribute the very unusual and cross sea we had
in this neighbourhood, to the existence of a bank,
than to the effect of a gale of wind which we had
just before experienced ; and I cannot but regret
that the commander of the ship did not try for
soundings at frequent intervals.

25th July we had opened the entrance
its, and in the afternoon spoke the:
Andrew Marvell, bound to England with a cargo
of fourteen fish. The master informed us that
the ice had been heavier this season in Davis’

14 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Straits than he had ever recollected, and that it
lay particularly close to the westward, being
connected with the shore to the northward of
Resolution Island, and extending from thence
within a short distance of the Greenland coast ;
that whales had been abundant, but the ice so ex-
tremely cross, that few could be killed. His ship,
as well as several others, had suffered material
injury, and two vessels had been entirely crushed
between vast masses of ice in latitude 74° 40’ N.,
but the crews were saved. We inquired anxiously,
but in vain, for intelligence respecting Lieute-
nant Parry, and the ships under his command :
but as he mentioned that the wind had been
blowing strong from the northward for some
time, which would, probably, have cleared Baf.
fin’s Bay of ice, we were disposed to hope fa-
vourably of his progress.

The clouds assumed so much the appearance
of icebergs this evening, as to deceive most of
the passengers and crew ; but their imaginations
had been excited by the intelligence we had re-
ceived from the Andrew Marvell, that she had
only parted from a cluster of them tw. days pre-
vious to our meeting. = ,

On the 27th, being in latitude 57° 44’ 21” N.,

longitude 47° 31’ 14” W., and the weather calm,
we tried for soundings, but did not reach the’

OF THE POLAR SEA. 15

bottom. The register thermometer was attached
to the line just above the lead, and is supposed
to have descended six hundred and fifty fathoms.
A well-corked bottle was also fastened to the
line, two hundred fathoms above the lead, and
went down four hundred and fifty fathoms. The
change in temperature, shewn by the register
thermometer during the descent, was from 52° to
40.5; and it stood at the latter point, when
taken out of the tin case. The temperature of
the water brought up in the bottle was 41°, being
half a degree higher at four hundred and fifty
than at six hundred and fifty fathoms, and four
degrees colder than the water at the surface,
which was then at 45°, whilst that of the air
was 46°. This experiment in shewing the water
to be colder at a great depth than at the surface,
and in proportion to the increase of the descent,

coincides with the observations of Captain Ross _
and Lieutenant Parry, on their late voyage to
these seas, but is contrary to the results obtained
by Captain Buchan and myself, on our recent
voyage to the north, between Spitzbergen and
Greenland,. in which sea we invariably found the
ought from any great depth to be warmer

than that at the surface. |
On the 28th we tacked, to avoid an extensive
stream of sailing ice. The temperature of the

16 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

water fell to 39.5°, when we were near it, but
was at 41°, when at the distance of half a mile.
The thermometer in the air remained steadily at
40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so
decidedly indicated by the decrease of the tem-
perature of either the air or water, as I have before
witnessed, which was probably owing to the
recent arrival of the stream at this point, and its
passing at too quick a rate for the effectual dif.
fusion of its chilling influence beyond a short
distance. Still the decrease in both cases was
sufficient to have given timely warning for a
ship’s performing any evolution that would haye
‘prevented the coming in contact with it, had the
thickness of the weather precluded a distant
view of the danger.
_ The approach to ice would be more evidently
pointed out in the Atlantic, or wherever the sur-
face is not so continually chilled by the passing
and the melting of ice as in this sea ; and I should
strongly recommend a strict hourly attention to
the thermometrical state of the water at the sur-
face, in all parts where ships are exposed to the
dangerous concussion of sailing icebergs, as a
principal means of security. a |
The following day our ship came near another
stream of ice, and the approach to it was indi-
cated by a decrease of the temperature of the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 17

water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small
pine-tree was picked up much shattered by the
ice. In the afternoon of the 30th, a very dense
fog came on; and, about six P.M., when sailing
before a diech breeze, we were suddenly involved
in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable difficulty
was experienced in steering through the narrow
channels between the different masses in this
foggy weather, and the ship received several
severe blows.

The water, as usual in the centre of the stream,
was quite smooth, but we heard the waves beating
violently against the outer edge of the ice. .There
was some earthy matter on several of the pieces,
and the whole body bore the appearance of re-
cent separation from the land. In the space of
two hours we again got into the open sea, but
had left our two consorts far behind; they
followed our track by the guns we discharged.
The temperature of the surface water was 35°
when amongst the ice, 38° when just clear of it,
and 41.5° at two miles distant.

On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58°
N., longitude 59° 53’ W., we first fell in with
large icebergs ; and in the evening were encom-
passed by several of considerable magnitude,
which obliged us to tack the ship in order to
prevent our getting entangled amongst them.

Vou. I. Cc

18 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The estimated distance from the nearest part of
the Labrador-coast was ‘then eighty-eicht miles ;
here we tried for soundings, without gaining the
bottom. The ship passed through some strong
riplings, which evidently indicated a current, but
its direction was not ascertained. We found,
however, by the recent observations, that the
ship had. been set daily to the southward, since
we had opened Davis’ Straits. The variation of
the compass was observed to be 52° 41' W.

At nine P.M., brilliant coruscations of the
Aurora Borealis appeared, of a pale ochre colour,
with .a slight tinge of red, in an arched form,
crossing the zenith from N.W. to S.E., but after-
wards they assumed various shapes, and had a
rapid motion. -

On the Sth of August, a party of. the officers
endeavoured to get on one of the larger icebergs,
but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and
smoothness of its sides, and the swell produced
by its undulating motion. This was one of the
largest we saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained its
height to be one hundred and forty-nine feet ; but
these masses of ice are frequently magnified to
‘an immense size, through the illusive medium of
‘a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their
dimensions have often been ie mais by
Vvoyagers.

OF THE POLAR SEAv-~ 19

_ Inthe morning of the 7th, the Island of Reso-
lution was indistinctly seen through the haze, but
was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very
dense fog. The favourable breeze subsided into
a perfect calm, and left the ship surrounded by
loose ice. At this time the Eddystone was per-
ceived to be driving with rapidity towards some
of the larger masses ; the stern-boats of this ship
and of the Wear were despatched to assist in
towing her clear of them. At ten, a momentary
clearness presented the land distinctly at the dis-
tance of two miles ; the ship was quite unmanage-
able, and under the sole governance of the cur-
rents, which ran in strong eddies between the
masses of ice. Our consorts were also seen, the
Wear being within hail, and the Eddystone at a
short distance from us. Two attempts were in-
effectually made to gain soundings, and the ex-
treme density of the fog precluded us from any:
other means of ascertaining the direction in which
we were driving until half past twelve, when we
had the alarming view of a barren rugged shore
within a few yards, towering over the mast-heads.
Almost instantly afterwards the ship struck vio-
lently on a point of rocks, projecting from the
island ; and the ship’s side was brought so near.
to the shore, that poles were prepared to push
her off. This blow displaced the rudder, and
C2

' 20 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

raised it several inches, but it fortunately had
been previously confined by tackles. A gentle
swell freed the ship from this perilous situation,
but the current hurried us along in contact with
the rocky shore, and the prospect was most
alarming. On the outward bow was perceived
a rugged and precipitous cliff, whose summit
was hid in the fog, and the vessel’s head was
pointed towards the bottom of a small bay, into
which we were rapidly driving. There now
seemed to be no probability of escaping ship-
wreck, being without wind, and having the rudder
in its present useless state; the only assistance
was that of a boat employed in towing, which
had been placed in the water between the ship
and the shore, at the imminent risk of its being
crushed. The ship again struck in passing over
a ledge of rocks, and happily the blow replaced
the rudder, which enabled us to take advantage
of a light breeze, and to direct the ship’s head
without the projecting cliff But the breeze was
only momentary, and the ship was a third time
driven on shore on the rocky termination of the cliff.
Here we remained “stationary for some seconds,
and with little prospect of being removed from this
perilous situation’; but we were once more extri-
cated by the swell from this ledge also, and carried
still farther along the shore. » The coast became

OF THE POLAR SEA. ©. 21

now more rugged, and our view of it was termi- —
nated by another high projecting point on: the
starboard bow. Happily, before we had reached
it, a light breeze enabled us to turn the ship’s
head to seaward, and we had the gratification to
find, when the sails were trimmed, that she drew
off the shore.. We had made but little progress,
however, when she was violently forced by the
current against a large iceberg lying aground.
Our prospect was now more alarming than at
any preceding period; and it would be difficult
for me to portray. the anxiety and dismay de-
picted on the countenances of the female pas-
sengers and children, who were rushing on deck
in spite of the endeavours of the officers to keep
_ them below, out of the danger which was appre-
hended if the masts should be carried away.
After the first concussion, the ship was driven
“along the steep and rugged side of this iceberg
with such amazing rapidity, that the destruction
of the masts seemed inevitable, and. every one
expected we should again be forced on the rocks
in the most disabled state ; but we providentially
escaped this perilous result, which must have
been decisive.
The dense fog now cleared away for a short
time, and we discoyered the Eddystone close to

te

22 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

some rocks, having three boats employed in tow-
ing ; but the Wear was not visible,

_ Our ship received water very fast; the pumps
were instantly manned and kept in continual use,
and signals of distress were made to the Eddy-
Stone, whose commander promptly came on
board, and then ordered to our assistance his
carpenter and all the men he could spare, toge-
ther with the carpenter and boat’s crew of the
Wear, who had gone on board the Eddystone in
the morning, and were prevented from returning
to their own vessel by the fog. As the wind was
increasing, and the sky appeared very unsettled,
it was determined the Eddystone should take the
ship in tow, that the undivided attention of the
passengers and crew might be directed to pump- |
ing, and clearing the holds to examine whether
there was a possibility of Stopping the leak.
We soon had reason to Suppose the principal
injury had been received from a blow near the
Stern-post, and, after cutting away part of the

tween the timbers ; but this had not the desired
effect, and the leak, in Spite of all our efforts at
the pumps, increased so much, that parties of

the officers and passengers were stationed to bail

»

OF THE POLAR SEA. 23

out the water in buckets at different parts of the
hold. A heavy gale came on, blowing from the
land, as the night advanced; the sails were split,
the ship was encompassed by heavy ice, and, in
forcing through a closely-connected. stream, the.
tow-rope broke, and obliged us to take a portion
of the seamen from the pumps, and appoint them
to the management of the ship.

Fatigue, indeed, had caused us to relax in our
exertions at the pumps during a part of the
night of the 8th, and on the following morning
upwards. of five feet water was found in the
well. Renewed exertions. were now put forth
by every person, and before eight A.M. the
water was so much reduced as to enable the
carpenters to. get at other defective places ; but
the remedies they could apply were insufficient
to repress the water from. rushing in, and our
labours could but just keep the ship in the same
State throughout the day, until six P.M.; when
the strength of every one began to fail, the ex-
pedient of thrusting in felt, as well as oakum,
was resorted. to, and a plank nailed over all-
After this operation a perceptible diminution in
the water was made, and being encouraged: by
the change, we put forth our utmost exertion in
bailing and pumping; and before night, to our
infinite joy, the leak was so overpowered that

24 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the pumps were only required to be used at in-
tervals of ten minutes. A sail, covered with
every substance that could be carried into the
leaks by the pressure of the water, was drawn
under the quarter of the ship, and secured by
ropes on each side.

As a matter of precaution in the event of hay-
ing to abandon the ship, which was for some
time doubtful, the elderly women and children
were removed to the Eddystone when the wind
was moderate this afternoon, but the young wo-
men remained to assist at the pumps, and their
services were highly valuable, both for their per-
sonal labour, and for the encouragement their
example and perseverance gaye to the men.

At day-light, on the 9th, every eye was anxi-
ously cast around the horizon in search of the
Wear, but in vain; and the recollection of our
Own recent peril caused us to entertain consider-
able apprehensions for her safety. This anxiety
quickened our efforts to exchange our shattered
sails for new ones, that the ship might be got, as
speedily as possible, near to the land, which
was but just in sight, and a careful search be
made for her along the coast. We were rejoiced
to find that our leak did not increase by carrying
sail, and We ventured in the evening to remove
the sail which had been -placed under the part

OF THE POLAR SEA. @

where the injury had been received, as it greatly
impeded our advance.

We passed many icebergs on the 10th, and in
the evening we tacked from a level field of ice,
which extended northward as far as the eye could
reach. Our leak remained in the same state;
the pumps discharged in three minutes the quan-
tity of water which had been received in fifteen.

The ship could not be got near to the land
before the afternoon of the 11th. At four P.M.
we hove to, opposite to, and about five miles
distant from, the spot on which we had first
struck on Saturday. Every glass was directed
along the shore (as they had been throughout the
day,) to discover any trace of our absent consort;
but, as none was seen, our solicitude respecting
her was much increased, and we feared the crew
might be wrecked on this inhospitable shore.
Guns were frequently fired to apprize any who
might be near of our approach; but, as no one —
appeared, and no signal was returned, and the
loose ice was setting down towards the ship, we |
bore up to proceed to the next appointed rendez-
vous. At8 P.M. we were abreast of the S.W.
end of the island called Cape Resolution, which
is a low point, but indicated at a distance by a
lofty round backed hill that rises above it. We
entered Hudson’s Straits soon afterwards,

oe JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The coast of Island should be ap-
proached with caution, as the tides appear to be
strong and uncertain in their course. Some
dangerous rocks lie above and below the water’s:
edge, at the distance of five or six miles from
East Bluff, bearing S. 32° E. 3

August 12.—Having had a fresh gale through
thenight, we reached Saddleback Island by noon
—the place of rendezvous; and looked anxiously,
but in vain, for the Wear. Several guns were
fired, supposing she might be hid from our view
by the land; but, as she did not appear, Captain.
Davidson, having remained two hours, deemed.
further delay inexpedient, and bore up to keep
the advantage of the fair wind. The outline of
this island is rugged ; the hammock on its northern
extremity appeared to me to resemble a decayed
martello tower more than a saddle.

Azimuths were obtained this evening that gave
the variation 58° 45’ W., which is greater than is
laid down in the charts, or than the officers of the
Hudson’s Bay ships have been accustomed to
allow. We arrived abreast of the Upper Savage
{sland early in the morning, and as the breeze
was moderate, the ship was steered as near to
the shore as the wind would permit, to give the
Esquimaux inhabitants an opportunity of coming
off to barter, which they soon embraced,

OF THE POLAR SEA. ~ 27

Their shouts at a distance intimated. their ap-
proach some time before we described the canoes
paddling towards us; the headmost of them
reached us at eleven; these were quickly fol-
lowed by others, and before noon about forty
canoes, each holding one man, were assembled
around the two ships. In the afternoon, when
we approached nearer to the shore, five or six
larger ones, containing the women and children,
came up.

The Esquimaux immediately evinced —_ de-
sire to barter, and displayed no small cunning in
making their bargains, taking care not to ex-
hibit too many articles at first. Their principal
commodities were, oil, sea-horse teeth, whale-
bone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots, deer-
skins and horns, and models of their canoes : and
they received in exchange small saws, edi
nails, tin-kettles, and needles, It was pleasing
to behold the exultation, and to hear the shouts:
of the whole party, when an acquisition was
made by any one; and not a little ludicrous to:
behold the eagerness with which the —
person licked each article with his tongue, on
receiving it, as a finish to the bargain, and an
act of appropriation. They inno instance omitted
this strange practice, however small the article:
the needles even passed individually through the

28 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ceremony. The women brought imitations. of
men, women, animals, and birds, carved with

labour and ingenuity out of sea-horse teeth. The —

dresses, and the figures of the animals, were not
badly executed, but there was no attempt at the
delineation of the countenances; and most of
the figures were without eyes, ears, and fingers,
the execution of which would, perhaps, have
required more delicate instruments than they
possess. The men set most value on saws;
huttee-swa-bak, the name by which they dis-
tinguish them, was a constant cry. Knives were
held next in estimation. An old sword was
bartered from the Eddystone, and I shall long re-
member the universal burst of joy on the happy
man’s receiving it. It was delightful to witness
the general interest excited by individual acqui-
sitions. There was no desire shewn by any one
to over-reach his neighbour, or to press towards
any part of the ship where a bargain was making,
until the person in possession of the ‘place. had
completed his exchange and removed; and, if any
article happened to be demanded from the outer
canoes, the men nearest assisted willingly in
passing the thing across, Supposing the party
to belong to one tribe, the total number of the
tribe must éxceed two hundred persons, as there
were, probably, one hundred and fifty around the

° OF THE POLAR SEA. 29

ships, and few of these were elderly persons, or
male children. |

Their faces were broad and flat, the eyes
small. The men were in general stout. Some
of the younger women and the children had rather
pleasing countenances, but the difference between
these and the more aged of that sex, bore strong
testimony to the effects which a few years produce
in this ungenial climate. Most of the party had
Sore eyes, all of them appeared of a plethoric habit
of body ; several were observed bleeding at the
nose during their stay near the ship. The men’s
dresses consisted of a jacket of seal-skin, the
trowsers of bear-skin, and several had caps of the
white fox-skin. The female dresses were made
of the same materials, but differently shaped,
having a hood in which the infants were carried.
We thought their manner very lively and agree-
able. They were fond of mimicking our speech
and gestures ; but nothing afforded them greater
amusement than when we attempted to retaliate
by pronouncing any of their words.
The canoes were of seal-skin, and similar in
every respect to those used by the Esquimaux in
Greenland ; they were generally new and very
complete in their appointments. Those appro-
priated to the women are -of ruder construction,
and only calculated for fine weather; they are,

hc,

30 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

however, useful vessels, being capable of contain-
ing twenty persons with their luggage. An el-
derly man officiates as steersman, and the women
paddle, but they have also a mast which carries
a sail, made of dressed whale-gut, - iv
When the women had disposed of all their ar-
ticles of trade they resorted to entreaty ; and the
putting in practice of many enticing gestures was
managed with so much address, as to procure
them presents of a variety of beads, needles, and
other articles in great demand among females.
It is probable these Esquimaux go from this
Te to some part of Labrador to pass the win-
ter, as parties of them have been frequently seen
by the homeward-bound Hudson’s Bay ships in
the act of erc ing the Strait, “
_*Hey appear to speak the same language as
the tribe of Esquimaux, who Teside near to the
Moravian Settlements in Labrador: for we per:
celved they used several of the words which had
een giventous by the Missionaries at Stromness.

and would, doubtless, soon reach the shore though

it was distant ten or twelve miles.

OF THE POLAR SEA. a

Not having encountered any of the ice, which
usually arrests the progress of ships in their out-
ward passage through the Straits, and being con-
sequently deprived of the usual means of reple-
nishing our stock of water,whichhad become short,
the Captain resolved on going to the coast of La-
brador fora supply. Dr. Richardson and I gladly
embraced this opportunity to land, and examine
this part of the coast. Iwas also desirous to
observe the variation on shore, as the azimuths,
which had been taken on board both ships since
our entrance into the Straits, had shewn a greater
amount than we ‘had been led to expect; but,
unluckily, the sun became obscured. The beach
consisted of Jarge rolled stones of gneiss and
Sienite, amongst which many pieces of ice had
grounded, and it was with difficulty that we ef-
fected a landing ina small cove under a steep
cliff. These stones were worn perfectly smooth ;
neither in:thé interstices, mor-at.the-betiom’ ofthe
water, which was very clear, were there any ves-
tiges of sea-weed.

The cliff was from forty to fifty feet high and

icular, and had at its base a small
slip of s0il:dorted:of the:idebris of: bed of ¢ ‘y-
slate. From-this narrow spot Dr.
collected specimens of thirty sect tienen: of
plants; and we were about to scramble up a

33 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

shelving part of the rock, and go into the interior,
when we perceived the signal of recall, which the
master had caused to be niade, in consequence of
a sudden change in the appearance of the weather.

On the evening of the 19th, we passed Digge’s
Islands, the termination of Hudson’s Strait. Here
the Eddystone parted company, being bound to
Moose Factory, at the bottom of the Bay. A
strong north wind came on, which prevented out
getting round the north end of Mansfield: and,
as it continued to blow with equal strength for the
next five days, we were most vexatiously detained
in beating along the Labrador coast, and near
the dangerous chain of islands, the Sleepers, which
are said to extend from the latitude of 60° 10’ to”
57 00'N. The press of sail, which of necessity
we carried, caused the leak to increase, and the
pumps were kept in constant use.

A favouring wind at length enabled us, on the
25th, to shape our course across Hudson’s Bay.
Nothing worthy of remark occurred during this
passage, except the rapid decrease in the varia-
tion of the magnetic needle. The few remarks
respecting the appearance of the land, which
we were able to make in our quick passage
through these Straits, were transmitted to the
Admiralty ; but, as they will not be interesting

to the general reader, and may not be suf-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 33

ficiently accurate for the guidance of the Navi-
gator, they are omitted in this narrative.

On the 28th we discovered the land to the
southward of Cape Tatnam, which is so ex-
tremely low, that the tops of the trees were first
discerned; the soundings at the time were seven-
teen fathoms, which gradually decreased to five
as the shore was approached. Cape Tatnam is
not otherwise remarkable than as being the point
from which the coast inclines rather more to the
westward towards York Factory. :

The opening of the morning of the 30th pre-
sented to our view the anchorage at York Flats,
and the gratifying sight of a vessel at anchor,
which we reeognised, after an anxious examina-
tion, to be the Wear. A strong breeze blowing
from the direction of the Flats, caused the water
to be more shallow than usual on the sandy bar,
which lies on the seaward side of the anchorage,
and we could not get over it before two P.M.,
when the tide was nearly at its height. :

Immediately after our arrival, Mr. Williams,
the Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s
posts, came on board, accompanied by the Com-
mander of the Wear. The pleasure we felt in
welcoming the latter gentleman can easily be
imagined, when it is considered what reason we
had for the apprehension that he and his crew

Von. I. =< D

34 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

had been numbered with the dead. We learned
that one of the larger masses of ice had provi-
dentially drifted between the vessel’s side and —
the rocks just at the time he expected to strike,
to which he secured her until a breeze sprang up,
and enabled him to pursue his voyage.

The Governor acquainted me that he had re-
ceived information from the Committee of the
Hudson’s Bay Company of the equipment of the
Expedition, and that the officers would come out
in the first ship. In the evening Dr, Richardson,
Mr. Hood, and I, accompanied the Governor to
York Factory, which we reached after dark ; itis
distant from the Flats seven miles. Early next
morning the Governor conferred the honour of a
salute on the members of the Expedition. .

Having communicated to the Governor the
objects of the Expedition, and that I had been
directed to consult with him and the senior
Servants of the Company as to the best mode
of Proceeding towards the execution of the sef-
vice, I was gratified by his assurance that his
nstructions from the Committee directed that
every possible assistance should be given to
forward our progress, and that he should fee
peculiar pleasure in performing this part of his
_ duty. He introd d me at once to’ Messrs.
Charles, Swaine, and Suodie, masters of dis

OF THE POLAR SEA. - BS

tricts; who, from-long residence in the country,
were perfectly acquainted with the different modes
of travelling, and the obstructions which might
-be anticipated. At the desire of these gentlemen,
I drew up a series of questions on the points on
which we required information; to which, two
days afterwards, they had. the kindness to return
very explicit and satisfactory answers; and on
receiving them I requested the Governor to favour
me with his sentiments on the same subject in
writing, which he delivered to me on the fol-
lowing day. : sti
Having learned that Messrs. Shaw, M‘Tavish,
and several other partners of the N.W. Com-
pany, were under detention at this place, we
took the earliest opportunity of visiting them’;
when, having presented the general circular, and
other introductory letters, with which I had been
furnished by their agent, Mr. Simon M‘Gillivray,
we received from them the most friendly and full
assurance of the cordial endeayours of the win-
tering partners of their Company to promote the
interests of the Expedition. The knowledge we
had now gained of the state of the violent coms
mercial opposition-existing in the country, ren
dered this assurance highly gratifying; and
these gentlemen added to the obligation by
freely communicating the information respecting
D2

36 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

‘the interior of the country, which their intelli-
‘gence and long residence so fully qualified them
to give.

I deemed it expedient to issue a memorandum
to the officers of the Expedition, strictly pro-
‘hibiting any interference whatever in the exist-
ing quarrels, or any that might arise, between
the two Companies ; and on presenting it to the
‘principals of both the parties, they expressed
their satisfaction at the step I had taken.

_ The opinions of all the gentlemen were s0
decidedly in favour of the route by Cumberland
‘House, and through the chain of posts to the
Great Slave Lake, ‘that I determined on pur-
suing it, and immediately communicated my
intention to the Governor, with a request that he
‘would furnish me with the means of conveyance
for the party as speedily as possible.

It was suggested in my instructions, that we
might probably procure a schooner at this place,
to proceed north as far as Wager Bay ; but the
‘completely out of repair ; independently of which,
the route directly to the northward was rendered

icable by the impossibility of procuring
hunters and guides tas men te
~ T found that as the Esquimaux inhabitants had
tet Churchill a month previous to our arrival, 0

OF THE POLAR SEA, . 37

interpreter from that quarter could be procured
before their return in the following spring. The
Governor, however, undertook to forward to us,
next season, the only one amongst them who un-
derstood English, if he could be induced to go.
The governor selected one of the largest of the
Company’s boats for our use on the journey, and
directed the carpenters to commence refitting it
immediately ; but he was only able to furnish us
with a steersman ; and we were obliged to make
up the rest of the crew with the boatmen brought
from Stromness, and our two attendants. .
_ York Factory, the principal depét of the Hud-
son’s Bay Company, stands on the west bank of
Hayes’ River, about five miles above its mouth,
on the marshy peninsula which separates the
Hayes and Nelson rivers. The surrounding
country is flat and swampy, and covered with
willows, poplars, larch, spruce, and birch trees ;
but the requisition for fuel has expended all the
wood in the Vicinity of the fort, and the residents
have now to send a considerable distance for this
necessary material. The soil is alluvial clay, and
contains imbedded rolled stones. Though the
bank of the river is elevated about twenty feet, it
is frequently overflown by the spring floods, and
large portions of it are annually carried away
by the disruption of the ice; by these portions

38 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

grounding in the stream, several muddy islands

have been formed. These interruptions, together
with the various collections of stones that are hid

at high water, render the navigation of the river
difficult ; but vessels of two hundred tons burthen
may be brought through the proper channels as-
high as the Factory. oie

~The principal buildings are placed in the form
of a square, having an octagonal court in the cen:

tre; they are two stories in height, and have flat —
roofs covered with lead. The officers dwell in
one portion of this square, and in the other —
parts the articles’ of merchandise are kept: the
workshops, storehouses for the furs , and the ser-
vants’ houses, are ranged on the outside of the —
squate, and the whole is surrounded by.a stock-
ade twenty feet high. A platform is laid from
the house to the pier on the bank for the con-
venience of transporting the stores and furs, which
is the only promenade the residents have on this
marshy spot during the summer season. The
few Indians, who now frequent this establishment,
belong to the Swampy Crees, There were sévetal
of them encamped on the outside of the stockade.
Their tents were rudely constructed by tying
twenty or thirty poles together at the top, and
Spreading them out at the base go as to form a
cone; these were covered with dressed moose-

OF THE POLAR SEA, 39

skins. The fire is placed in the centre, and a
hole is left for the escape of the smoke. The
inmates had a squalid look, and were suffering
under the combined afflictions of hooping-cough
and measles; but even these miseries did not
keep them from an excessive indulgence in the
use of spirits, which they unhappily can procure
from the traders with too much facility ; and they
nightly serenaded us with their monotonous
drunken songs. Their sickness, at this time, was
particularly felt by the traders, this being the
season of the year when the exertion of every
hunter is required to procure their winter’s stock
of geese, which resort in immense flocks to the
extensive flats in this neighbourhood. These
birds, during the summer, retire far to the north,
and breed in security ; but, when the approach of
winter compels them to seek a more southern
climate, they generally alight on the marshes of
this bay, and.fatten there for three weeks or a
month, before they,take their final departure from
the country. They also make a short halt at the
Same spots in their progress northwards in the
spring. Their arrival is welcomed with joy, and
the period of the goose hunt is one of the most
plentiful seasons of the year. The ducks frequent
the swamps all the summer.

The weather was extremely unfavourable for

40 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

celestial observations during our stay, and it was
only by watching the momentary appearances of
the sun, that we were enabled to obtain fresh —
rates for the chronometers, and allow for their
errors from Greenwich time. The dip of the
needle was observed to be 79° 29' 07”, and the
difference produced by reversing the face of the
instrument was 11° 3’ 40”. A succession of fresh
breezes prevented our ascertaining the intensity
of the magnetic force. The position of York
Factory, by our observations, is in latitude 57°
00’ 03” N., longitude 92° 26’ W. The variation
of the compass 6° 00’ 21” E,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 4}

CHAPTER II.

Passage up Hayes’, Steel, and Hill Rivers—Cross Swam
Jack River—Knee Lake and Magnetic Islet-—Trout River—

L
Lake and River—Echemamis and Sea Rivers—Play-Green Lakes
—Lake Winipeg—River Saskatchawan—Cross, Cedar, and Pine-
Island Lakes—Cumberland House.

September. ON the 9th of September, our boat

being completed, arrangements were made for
our departure as soon as the tide should serve.
But, when the stores were brought down to the
beach, it was found that the boat would not con. -
tain them all. The whole, therefore, of the bacon,
and part of the flour, rice, tobacco, and ammuni-
tion, were returned into the store. The bacon
was too bulky an article to be forwarded under
any circumstances ; but the Governor undertook
to forward the rest next season. In making the
selection of articles to carry with us, I was guided
by the judgment of Governor Williams, who as-
sured me that tobacco, ammunition, and spirits,
could be procured in the interior, otherwise I
should have been yery unwilling to have left

42 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

these essential articles behind. We embarked at
noon, and were honoured with a salute of eight
guns and three cheers from the Governor and
all the inmates of the fort, who had assembled to

witness our departure. We gratefully returned

their cheers, and then made sail, much delighted
at having now commenced our voyage into the
interior of America. The wind and tide failing
us at the distance of six miles above the Factory,
and the current being too rapid for using oars to
advantage, the crew had to commence tracking,
or dragging the boat by a line, to which they
were harnessed. This operation is extremely
laborious in these rivers, Our men were obliged
to walk along the steep declivity of a high bank,
rendered at this season soft and slippery by fre-
quent rains, and their progress was often further
impeded by fallen trees, which, having slipped
from the verge of the thick wood above, hung-on
the face of the bank in a great variety of direc-
tions. Notwithstanding these obstacles, however
we advanced at the rate of two miles an -hout;
one-half of the crew relieving the other at inter-
vals of an hour and a half. The banks of the
iver, and its islands, composed of alluvial soil,
ate well covered with pines, larches, poplars,
and willows. The breadth of the stream, some
distance above the Factory, is about half a mile,

OF THE POLAR SBA, 43

and its depth, during this day’s voyage, varied
from three to nine feet.

_ At sunset we landed, and pitched the tent for
the’ night, having made a progress of twelve
miles. A large fire was quickly kindled, supper
speedily prepared, and as readily despatched;
when we retired with our buffalo robes on, and
enjoyed a night of sound repose.

It may here be stated, that the survey of the
river was made by taking the bearings of every
point with a pocket compass, estimating the dis:
ta and making a connected eye-sketch of the

whole. This part of the survey was allotted to
Messrs. Back and Hood conjointly: Mr. Hood
also protracted the route every evening on a —
ruled map, after the courses and distances had
been corrected by observations for latitude and
longitude, taken by myself as often as the weather
would allow. The extraordinary talent of this
young officer in this line of service proved of the
greatest advantage to the expedition, and he con-
tinued to perform that duty until his lamented
death, with a degree of zeal and accuracy that
characterized all his pursuits.

- ‘The next morning our camp was in motion at
five A’M., and we soon afterwards embarked
with the flattering accompaniment of a fair wind:
it proved, however, too light to enable us to stem

44 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the stream, and we were obliged to resume the
fatiguing operation of tracking; sometimes under
cliffs so steep that the men could scarcely find a
footing, and not unfrequently over spots rendered
so miry by the small streams that trickled from
above, as to be almost impassable. In the course
of the day we passed the scene of a very melan-
choly accident. Some years ago, two families of
Indians, induced by the flatness of a small beach,
which lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose it
as the site of their encampment. They retired
quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice, de-
tached from the bank, and urged by an accumu-
lation of water in the crevice behind, was tottering
to its base. It fell during the night, and the whole
party was buried under its ruins.

The length of our voyage to-day was, ina
direct line, sixteen miles and a quarter, ona
S.S.W. course. We encamped soon after sunset,
and the tent was scarcely pitched when it began
to rain heavily, and continued to do so all night.

Sixteen miles on the 11th, and five on the fol-
lowing morning, brought us to the commencement
of Hayes’ River, which is formed by the con-
fluence of the Shamattawa and Steel Rivers:
Our observations place this Spot in latitude
06° 22 32’ N., longitude 93° 1’ 97” W. It is
forty-eight miles and a half from York Factory,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 45

including the windings of the river. Steel River,
through which our course lay, is about three
hundred yards wide at its mouth; its banks have
more elevation than those of Hayes’ River, but
they shelve more gradually down to the stream,
and afford a tolerably good towing path, which
compensates, in some degree, for the rapids and
frequent shoals that impede its navigation. We
succeeded in getting about ten miles above the
mouth of the river, before the close of day com-
pelled us to disembark.

We made an effort, on the morning of the 13th,
‘to stem the current under sail, but as the course
of the river was very serpentine, we found that
greater progress could be made by tracking
Steel River presents much beautiful scenery ;
it winds through a narrow, but well wooded,
valley, which at every turn disclosed to us an
agreeable variety of prospect, rendered more
picturesque by the effect of the season on the
foliage, now ready to drop from the trees. The
light yellow of the fading poplars formed a fine
"contrast to the dark evergreen of the spruce, whilst
the willows of an intermediate hue, served to
shade the two principal masses of colour into
each other. The scene was occasionally enli-
vened by the bright purple tints of the dogwood,
blended with the browner shades of the dwarf

45 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

_ bitch, and frequently intermixed with the gay

yellow flowers of the shrubby cinquefoil. With

all these charms, the scene appeared desolate
from the want of the human species. The stili-
ness Was so great, that even the twittering of the
whiskey-johneesh, or cincreous crow, caused us to
Start. Our voyage to-day was sixteen miles on
a S.W. course. seed
Sept, 19.—We had much rain during the night,
and also in the morning, which detained us in our
encampment later than usual. We set out as

*

OF THE POLAR SEA. 47

day, to jump into the water, and assist in lifting
the boat over the large stones which impeded the
navigation. The length of our voyage to-day
was only six miles and three quarters.

The four boats commenced operations together
at five o’clock the following morning; but our boat
being overladen, we soon found that we were un-
able to keep pace with the others ; and, therefore,
proposed to the gentlemen in ae of the Com-
pany’s boats, that they should relieve us of part
of our cargo. This they declined doing, under
the plea of not having received orders to that
effect, notwithstanding that the circular, with
which I was furnished by Governor Williams,
strictly enjoined all the Company’s servants to
afford us every assistance. In consequence of
this refusal we dropt behind, and our steersman,
who was inexperienced, being thus deprived of
the advantage of observing the route followed by
the guide, who was in the foremost boat, fre-
quently took a wrong channel. _ The tow-line
broke twice, and the boat was only prevented
from’ going broadside down the stream, and
breaking to pieces against the stones, by the
officers and men leaping into the water, and hold-
ing her head to the current until the line could be
carried again to the shore.» It is but justice to
say, that in these trying situations, we received -

48 JOURNEY TO THE. SHORES

much assistance from Mr. Thomas Swaine, who
with great kindness waited for us with the boat
under his charge at such places as he appre-
hended would be most difficult to pass. We en-
camped at sunset, completely jaded with toil.
Our distance made good this day was twelve
miles and a quarter.

The labours of the 16th commenced at half
past five, and for some time the difficulty of
getting the boats over the rapids was equal to
what we experienced yesterday. Having passed
a small brook, however, termed Halfway Creek,
the river became deeper, and although rapid, it
was smooth enough to be named by our Orkney
boatmen Siill-water. We were further relieved
by the Company’s clerks consenting to take a
few boxes of our stores into their boats. Still we
made only eleven miles in the course of the day.

The banks of Hill River are higher, and have
a more broken outline, than those of Steel of
Hayes’ Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose
im some places to the height of eighty or ninety

. feet above the stream, and were surmounted by
hills about two hundred feet high, but the thick-
Ress of the wood prevented us from seeing far
beyond the mere banks of the river.
September 17.—About half past five in the
Romine Wwe commenced tracking, and soon came

OF THE POLAR SEA. 49

to a ridge of rock which extended across the
stream. From this place the boat was dragged
up several narrow rocky channels, until we came
to the Rock Portage, where the stream, pent in
by a range of small islands, forms several cas-
cades. In ascending the river, the boats with
their cargoes are carried over one of the islands,
but in the descent they are shot down the most
shelving of the cascades. Having performed the
operations of carrying, launching, and re- -stowing
the cargo, we plied the oars for a short distance
and landed at a depét called Rock House. Here
we were informed that the rapids in the upper
parts of Hill River were much worse and more
numerous than those we had passed, particularly
in the present season, owing to the unusual low-
ness of the water. This intelligence was very
mortifying, especially as the gentlemen in charge
of the Company’s boats declared that they were
unable to carry any part of our stores beyond
this place; and the traders, guides, and most ex-
perienced of the boatmen, were of opinion, that
unless our boat was still further lightened, the
winter would put a stop to our progress before
we could reach Cumberland House, or any eligi-
ble post. Sixteen pieces were therefore necessa-
rily left with Mr. Bunn, the ctieorcinane in age
<<. Veewt.

50 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

of the post, to be forwarded by the Athabasca
canoes néxt season, this being their place of ren-
dezvous. .

After this we» recommenced our voyage, and
having pulled nearly a mile, arrived at Borto-
wick’s Fall, where the boat was dragged up with
a line, after part of the cargo had been carried
over a small portage. From this place to the —
Mud Portage, a distance of a mile and three
quarters, the boats were pushed on with poles
against a very rapid stream. Here we encamped,
having come seven miles during the day on 4
S.W. course. We had several snow showers i
the course of the day, and the thermometer at
bed-time stood at 30°. ee

On the morning of the 18th, the country was
clothed in the livery of winter, a heavy fall of
snow having taken place during the night. We
embarked at the usual hour, and, in the course of
the day, crossed the Point of Rocks and Brassa
Portages, and dragged the boats through several
minor rapids... In this tedious way we only made
good about nine miles.

On Sunday the 19th we hauled the boats up
Several short rapids, or, as the boatmen term
them, expressively enough, spouts, and carried
them over the Portages of Lower Burntwood and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 5

Morgan’s Rocks; on the latter of which we en-
camped, having proceeded, during the whole day,
only one mile and three quarters.

The upper part of Hill River swells out con-
siderably, and at Morgan’s Rocks, where it is
three quarters of a mile wide, we were gratified
with a more extensive prospect of the country
than any we had enjoyed since leaving York
Factory. The banks of the river here, consisting
of low flat rocks with intermediate swamps, per-
mitted us to obtain views of the interior, the sur-
face of which is broken into a multitude of cone-
shaped hills. The highest of these hills, which
gives a name to the river, has an elevation not
exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit,
thirty-six lakes are said to be visible. The
beauty of the scenery, dressed in the tints of
autumn, called forth our admiration, and was the
subject of Mr. Hood’s accurate pencil. On the
20th we passed Upper Burntwood and Rocky
Ledge Portages, besides several strong spouts ;
and in the evening arrived at Smooth Rock Por-
tage, where we encamped, having come three
miles anda half. It is not easy for any but an
eye-witness to form an adequate idea of the ex-
ertions of the Orkney boatmen in the navigation
of this river. The necessity they are under of
frequently jumping into the water to lift the boats

“3 E2

52 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

over the rocks, compels them to remain the whole
day in wet clothes, at a season when the tempe-
rature is far below the freezing point. The im-
mense loads too, which they carry over the por-
tages, is not more a matter of surprise than the
alacrity with which they perform these laborious.
duties. *
At six on the morning of the 21st, we left our
encampment, and soon after arrived at the Mossy
Portage, where the cargoes were carried through
a deep bog for a quarter of a mile. The river.
swells out, above this portage, to the breadth of
Several miles, and as the islands are numerous
there are a great variety of channels. — Night
overtook us before we arrived at the Second
Portage, so named from its being the second —
in the passage down the river. Our whole dis- :
tance this day was one mile and a quarter.
‘On the 22d our ‘route led us amongst many
wooded islands, which, lying in long vistas, pro
duced scenes of much beauty. In the course df :
the day ‘we “crossed. the Upper Portage, sut-
mounted the Devil’: ‘Landing Place, and urged
the boat with poles through Groundwater Creek-
_ At the upper end of ‘this creck, our bowman

OF THE POLAR SEA. 33

hurried down the rapid. Fortunately, however,
it grounded against a rock high enough to pre-
vent the current from oversetting it, and the
crews of the other boats having come to our
assistance, we succeeded, after several trials, in
throwing a rope tothem, with which they dragged
our almost sinking vessel stern foremost up the
stream, and rescued us from our perilous situa-
tion. We encamped in the dusk of the evening
amidst a heavy thunder-storm, having advanced
two miles and three quarters.

About ten’ in the morning of the 23d we ar-
rived at the Dramstone, which is hailed with
pleasure by the boats’ crews, as marking the ter-
mination of the laborious ascent of Hill River.
We complied with the custom from whence it
derives its name, and soon after landing upon
Sail Island prepared breakfast. In the mean
time our boatmen cut down and rigged a new
mast, the old one having been thrown over-
board at the mouth of Steel River, where’ it
ceased to be useful. We left Sail Island with
a fair wind, and soon afterwards arrived at a
depot situated on Swampy Lake, where we: re-
ceived a supply of mouldy pemmican*. Mr.
Calder and his attendant were the only tenants
of this cheerless abode, and their only food was
__ * Buffalo meat, dried and pounded, and mixed with melted fat.

54 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the wretched stuff with which they supplied us,
the lake not yielding fish at this season. After a
‘short delay at this post, we sailed through the
remainder of Swampy Lake, and slept at the
Lower Portage in Jack River; the distance sailed
to-day being sixteen miles and a half.

Jack River is only eight miles long ; but being
full of bad rapids, it detained us considerably.
At seven in the morning of the 24th, we crossed
the Long Portage, where the woods, having
caught fire in the summer, were still smoking.
This is a common accident, owing to the neglect
of the Indians and voyagers in not putting out
their fires, and in a dry season the woods may
be seen blazing to the extent of many miles.
We afterwards crossed the Second, or Swampy
Portage, and in the evening encamped on the
Upper Portage, where we were overtaken by an
Indian bringing an answer from Governor Wil-
liams to a letter I had written to him on the
{oth, in which he renewed his injunctions to the
gentlemen of the boats accompanying us, to
afford us every assistance in their power. The
Aurora Borealis appeared this evening in form
of a bright arch, extending across the zenith in a
N.W. and S.E. direction. The extent of our
‘woyage to-day was two miles. ?

About noon, on the 25th, we entered Knee

OF THE POLAR SEA. 55

Lake, which has a very irregular form, and near
its middle takes a sudden turn, from whence it
derives its name. It is thickly studded with
islands, and its shores are low and well-wooded.
The surrounding country, as far as we could see,
is flat, being destitute even of the moderate ele-
vations which occur near the upper part of Hill
River. The weather was remarkably fine, and
the setting sun threw the richest tints over the
scene that I remember ever to have witnessed.
About half a mile from the bend or knee of
the lake, there is a small rocky islet, composed
of magnetic iron ore, which affects the magnetic
needle at a considerable distance. Having re-
ceived previous information respecting this cir-
cumstance, we watched our compasses carefully,
and perceived that they were affected at the dis-
tance of three hundred yards, both on the ap-
proach to and departure from the rock: on de-
creasing the distance, they became gradually
more and more unsteady, and on landing they
were rendered quite useless ; and it was evident
that the general magnetic influence was totally
overpowered by the local attraction of the ore.
When Kater’s compass was held near to the
ground on the N.W. side of the island, the needle
dipped so much that the card could not be made
to traverse by any adjustment of the hand; but

56 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

on moving the same compass about thirty yards
to the west part of the islet, the needle became
horizontal, traversed freely, and pointed to the
magnetic north. The dipping needle being landed
on the S.W. point of the islet, was adjusted as
nearly as possible on the magnetic meridian by
the sun’s bearings, and found to vibrate freely,
when the face of the instrument was directed to
the east or west. The mean dip it gave was
80° 37’ 50". When the instrument was removed
from the N.W. to the S.E. point, about twenty
yards distant, and placed on the meridian, the
needle ceased to traverse, but remained steady
at an angle of 60°. _On changing the face of the
instrument, so as to give a S.E. and N.W.
direction to the needle, it hung. vertically. The
position of the slaty strata of the magnetic ore is
also vertical. Their direction is extremely irre-
gular, being much contorted.

Knee Lake towards its upper end becomes
narrower, and its rocky shores are. broken into
conical and. rounded eminences, destitute of soil,
and of course devoid of trees. We slept at the
western extremity of the lake, having come during
the day nineteen miles and a half on a S.W.
We began the ascent of Trout River early in
the morning of the 27th, and inthe course of the

OF THE POLAR SEA, 57

day passed three portages and several rapids.
At the first of these portages the river falls be-
tween two rocks about sixteen feet, and it is
necessary to launch the boat over a precipitous
rocky bank. This cascade is named the T'rout-
Fall, and the beauty of the scenery afforded a
subject for Mr. Hood’s pencil. The rocks which
form the bed of this river are slaty, and present
sharp fragments, by which the feet of the boat-
men are much lacerated. The Second Portage,
in particular, obtains the expressive name. of
Knife Portage. The length of our voyage to-day
was three miles.

On the 28th we indeed dhnchight the peinsisiles
of Trout River ; and, at noon, arrived at Oxford
House, on Holey Lake. This was formerly a
post of some consequence to the Hudson’s Bay
Company, but at present it exhibits unequivocal
signs of decay. The Indians have of late years
been gradually deserting the low or swampy
country, and ascending the Saskatchawan, where
animals are more abundant. A few Crees were
at this time encamped in front of the fort. They
were suffering under the combined maladies of
hooping-cough and measles, and looked miserably
dejected. We endeavoured in vain to prevail on
one of them to accompany us for the purpose of
killing ducks, which were numerous, but too shy

58 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

for owr sportsmen. We had the satisfaction,
however, of exchanging the mouldy pemmican,
obtained at Swampy Lake, for a better kind, and
received, moreover, a small, but very acceptable,
supply of fish. Holey Lake, viewed from an emi-
nence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing
prospect ; and its numerous islands, varying much
in shape and elevation, contribute to break that
uniformity of scenery which proves so palling to
a traveller in this country. Trout of a great size,
frequently exceeding forty pounds’ weight, abound
in this lake. We left Oxford House in the after-
noon, and encamped on an island about eight
miles’ distant, having come, during the day, nine
miles and a quarter.

At noon, on the 29th, after passing through the
remainder of Holey Lake, we entered the Weepi-
napannis, a narrow grassy river, which runs
parallel to the lake for a considerable distance,
and forms its south bank into a narrow peninsula,
In the morning we arrived at the Swampy Portage,
where two of the boats were broken against the
rocks. The length of the day’s voyage was nine-
teen miles and a half.

In consequence of the accident yesterday even-
ing, we were detained a considerable time this
morning, until the boats were repaired, when we
set out; and, after ascending a strong rapid, arrived

OF THE POLAR SEA. 59

at the portage by John Moore’s Island. Here the
river rushes with irresistible force through the
channels formed by two rocky islands; and we
learned, that last year a poor man, in hauling a
boat up one of these channels, was, by the break-
ing of the line, precipitated into the stream and
‘hurried down the cascade with such rapidity, that
‘all efforts to save him were ineffectual. His
body was afterwards —e and interred near
the spot.

The Weepinapannis is composed of several
branches which separate and unite, again and
again, intersecting the country in a great variety
of directions. We pursued the principal chan-
nel, and having passed the Crooked Spout, with
several inferior rapids, and crossed a small piece
of water, named Windy Lake, we entered a
smooth deep stream about three hundred yards
wide, which has got the absurd appellation of the
Rabbit Ground. The marshy banks of this river
are skirted by low barren rocks, behind which
there are some groups of stunted trees. As we
advanced, the country becoming flatter, gradually
opened to our view, and we at length arrived at
a shallow, reedy lake, the direct course through
which leads to the Hill Portage. This route has,
however, of late years been disused, and we there.
fore turned towards the north, and crossing a small

60 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

arm. of the lake, arrived at Hill Gates by sunset ;
having come this day eleven miles.

October 1.—Hill Gates is the name imposed on
a romantic defile, whose rocky walls, rising per-
pendicularly to the height of sixty or eighty feet,
hem in the stream for three quarters of a mile, in
many places so narrowly, that there is a want of
room to ply the oars. In passing through this
chasm we were naturally led to contemplate the
mighty but, probably, slow and gradual effects of
the water in wearing down such vast masses of
rock ; but in the midst of our speculations, the at-
tention was excited anew to a grand and pic-
turesque rapid, which, surrounded by the most
wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile.
The brown fishing-eagle had built its nest on one
of the projecting cliffs. In the course of the day
we surmounted this and another dangerous
portage, called, the Upper and Lower Hill
Gate Portages, crossed a small sheet of water,
termed the White Fall. Lake, and entering the
river of the same name, arrived at the White Fall
about an hour after sunset, having come fourteen
miles on a S.W. course.

The whole of the 2d of October was spent in
calrying the cargoes over a portage of thirteen
hundred. yards in length, and in launching the
empty boats over three several ridges of. rock

OF THE POLAR SEA, 61

which obstruct the channel and produce as many
cascades. I shall long remember the rude and
characteristic wildness of the scenery which sur-
rounded these falls; rocks piled on rocks hung’
in rude and shapeless masses over the agitated
torrents which swept their bases, whilst the
bright and variegated tints of the mosses and
lichens, that covered the face of the cliffs, con-
trasting with the dark green of the pines, which
crowned their summits, added both beauty and
grandeur to the general effect of the scene. Our
two companions, Back and Hood, made accurate
sketches of these falls. At this place we observed
a conspicuous lop-stick, a kind of land-mark, which
I have not hitherto noticed, notwithstanding its
great use in pointing out the frequented routes.
It is a pine-tree divested of its lower branches,
and having only a small tuft at the top remain-
ing. This operation is usually performed at the
instance of some individual emulous of fame.
He treats his companions with rum, and they in
return strip the tree of its branches, and ever
after designate it by his name.

In the afternoon, whilst on my way to super-
intend the operations of the men, a stratum of
loose moss gave way under my feet, and I had
the misfortune to slip from the summit of a rock
into the river, betwixt two of the falls. My at-

62 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

tempts to regain the bank were, for a time,
ineffectual, owing to the rocks within my reach
having been worn smooth by the action of the
water ; but, after I had been carried a considerable
distance down the stream, I caught hold of a
willow, by which I held until two gentlemen of
the Hudson’s Bay Company came in a boat to —
my assistance. The only bad consequence of
this accident was an injury sustained by a very
valuable chronometer, (No. 1733,) belonging to
Daniel Moore, Esq., of Lincoln’s Im. One of
the gentlemen, to. whom I delivered it imme-
diately on landing, in his agitation let it fall,
whereby the minute-hand was broken, but the
works were not in the smallest degree injured,
and the loss of the hand was afterwards sup-
plied | |

During the night the frost was severe; and at
sunrise, on the 3d, the thermometer stood at 25°.
After leaving our encampment at the White Fall,
we passed through several small lakes connected
with each other by narrow, deep, grassy streams,
and at noon arrived at the Painted Stone. Num-
bers of musk-rats frequent these Streams; and we
observed, in the course of the morning, many of
their mud-houses rising in a conical form to the
height of two or three feet above the grass of the
Swamps in which they were built,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 63

The Painted Stone is a low rock, ten or twelve
yards across, remarkable for the marshy streams
which arise on each side of it, taking different
courses. On the one side, the water-course which
we had navigated from York Factory commences.
This spot may therefore be considered as one of
the smaller sources of Hayes’ River. On the
other side of the stone the Echemamis rises, and
taking a westerly direction falls into Nelson
River. It is said that there was formerly a
stone placed near the centre of this portage on
which figures were annually traced, and offerings
deposited, by the Indians ; but the stone has been
removed many years, and the spot has ceased to
be held in veneration. Here we were overtaken
by Governor Williams, who left York Factory on
the 20th of last month in an Indian canoe. He
expressed much regret at our having been obliged
to leave part of our stores at the Rock depét, and
would have brought them up with him had he
been able to procure and man a boat, or a canoe
of sufficient size. :

Having launched the boats over the rock, we
commenced the descent of the Echemamis. This
_ small stream has its course through a morass, and
in dry seasons its channel contains, instead of
water, merely a foot or two of thin mud. On
these occasions it is customary to build dams,

64 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

that it may be rendered navigable by the accu-—
mulation of its waters. As the beavers perform
this operation very effectually, endeavours have -
been made to encourage them to breed in this
place, but it has not hitherto been possible to re-
strain the Indians from killing that useful animal
whenever they discover its retreats. On the pre-
sent occasion there was no want of water, the
principal impediment we experienced being from
the narrowness of the channel, which permitted
the willows of each bank to meet over our heads,
and obstruct the men at the oars. After proceed-
ing down the stream for some time, we came toa
recently-constructed beaver-dam through which an
opening was made sufficient to admit the boat to
pass. We were assured that the breach would
be closed by the industrious creature in a single
night. We encamped about eight miles from the
source of the river, having come during the day
seventeen miles and a half.

On the 4th we embarked amidst a heavy rain,
and pursued our route down the Echemamis. In
many parts the morass, by which the river is
nourished, and through which it flows, is inter-
sected by ridges of rock which cross the channel,
and require the boat to be lifted over them. In
the afternoon we passed through a shallow piece
of water overgrown with bulrushes, and hence 3

OF THE POLAR SEA. . 65

“named Hairy Lake; and, in the evening, en-
camped on the banks of Blackwater Creek, by
which this lake empties itself into Sea River:
having come during the day twenty miles and
three quarters.

On the morning of the Sth, we entered Sea!
River, one of the many branches of Nelson River.
It is about four hundred yards wide, and its
waters are of a muddy white colour. After as-
cending the stream for an hour or two, and pass-
ing through Carpenter’s Lake, which is merely
an expansion of the river to about a mile in
breadth; we came to the Sea River Portage,
where the boat was launched across a smooth
rock, to avoid a fall of four or five feet. Re-
embarking at the upper end of the portage, we
Tan before a fresh gale through the remainder of
Sea River, the lower part of Play Green Lake,
and.entering Little Jack River, landed and pitched
our tents. Here there is a small log-hut, the
residence of a fisherman, who supplies Norway
House with trout and sturgeon, He gave us a
few of these fish, which afforded an acceptable
supper. The length of our voyage this day was
thirty-four miles. 68 ee els

October 6.—Little Jack River is the name
given to a channel that winds among several
large islands which separate Upper and Lower

Vor, I. F

66 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Play Green Lakes. At the lower end of this
channel, Big Jack River, a stream of consider-
able magnitude, falls into the lake. Play Green
is a translation of the appellation given to that
. lake by two bands of Indians, who met and held
a festival on an island situated near its centre.
After leaving our encampment we sailed through
Upper Play Green Lake, and arrived at Norway
Point in the forenoon.

The waters of Lake Winipeg, and of the
rivers that run into it, the Saskatchawan in par-
ticular, are rendered turbid by the suspension
of a large quantity of white clay. Play Green
Lake and Nelson River, being the discharges
of the Winipeg, are equally opaque, a circum-
stance that renders the sunken rocks, so fre-
quent in these waters, very dangerous to boats
in a fresh breeze. Owing to this, one of the
boats that accompanied us, sailing at the rate
of seven miles an hour, struck upon one of these
rocks. Its mast was carried away by the shock,
but fortunately no other damage sustained. The
Indians ascribe the muddiness of these lakes to
an adventure of one of their deities, a mischievous
fellow, a sort of Robin Puck, whom they hold
in very little esteem. This deity, who is named
Weesakootchaht, possesses considerable power,
but makes a capricious use of it; and delights

OF THE POLAR SEA. 67

in tormenting the poor Indians. He is not, how-
ever, invincible, and was foiled in one of his
attempts by the artifice of an old woman, who
succeeded in taking him captive. She called in
all the women of the tribe to aid in his punish-
ment, and he escaped from their hands in a con-
dition so filthy that it required all the waters of
the Great Lake to wash him clean: and ever
since that period it has been entitled to the ap-
pellation of Winipeg, or Muddy water.

Norway Point forms the extremity of a narrow
peninsula which separates Play Green and Wini-
peg Lakes. Buildings were first erected here
by a party of Norwegians, who were driven
away from the colony at Red River by the com-
motions which took place some time ago. It is
now a trading post belonging to the Hudson’s
Bay Company. On landing at Norway House
we met with Lord Selkirk’s colonists, who had
started from York Factory the day before us.—
These poor people were exceedingly pleased at
meeting with us again in this wild country;
having accompanied them across the Atlantic,
they viewed us in the light of old acquaintances.
This post was under the charge of Mr. James
Sutherland, to whom I am indebted for replacing
a minute-hand on the chronometer, which was

| F2

oT Eee
ne
-

63 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

broken at the White Fall, and I had afterwards
the satisfaction of finding that it went with ex-
traordinary regularity.

The morning of the 7th October was beautifully
clear, and the observations: we obtained place
Norway House in latitude 53° 41’ 38" N., and
longitude 98° 1’ 24" W.; the variation of the
magnetic needle 14° 12° 41” E., and its dip
83° 40°10". Though our route ted Vouk Factory
has rather inclined to the S. W., the dip, it will
be perceived, has gradually increased. The
difference produced by reversing the face of the
instrument was 7° 39’. There was too much
wind to admit of our observing, with any degree
of accuracy, the quantity of the magnetic force.

We left Norway House soon after noon, and ~
the wind being favourable, sailed along -the
northern shore of Lake Winipeg the whole of
the ensuing night; and on the morning of the
8th landed on a narrow ridge of sand, which,
running out twenty miles to the westward, se-
parates Limestone Bay from the body of the
Lake. When the wind blows hard from the —
southward, it is customary to carry boats across
this isthmus, and to pull up under its lee, From
Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore
consists of high clay cliffs, against which the

OF THE POLAR. SEA. 69

waves beat with much violence during strong
southerly winds. When the wind blows from
the land, and the waters of the lake are low, a
narrow sandy beach is uncovered, and affords a
landing-place for boats. The shores of Lime-
stone Bay are covered with small fragments of
calcareous stones. During the night the Aurora
Borealis was quick in its motions, and various
and vivid in its colours. After breakfasting we
re-embarked, and continued our voyage until
three P.M., when a strong westerly wind arising,
we were obliged to shelter ourselves on a small
island, which lies near the extremity of the above-
mentioned peninsula, This island is formed of
a collection of small rolled pieces of limestone,
and was remembered by some of our boatmen
_ to have been formerly covered with water. For
the last ten or twelve years the waters of the
lake have been low, but our information did not
enable us to judge whether. the decrease was
merely casual, or going on continually, or pe-

riodical. The distance of this island from Nor-
way House is thirty-eight miles and a half.

The westerly winds detained us all the morn-
ing of the 9th, but, at two P.M., the wind chopped
round to the éastward; we immediately em-
barked, and the Gaae afterwards freshening,

70 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

we reached the mouth of the Saskatchawan at
midnight, having run thirty-two miles.

Sunday, October 10.—The whole of this day
was occupied in getting the boats from the mouth
of the river to the foot of the grand rapid, a
distance of two miles. There are several rapids
in this short distance, during which the river
varies its breadth from five hundred yards to
half a mile. Its channel is stony. At the grand
rapid, the Saskatchawan forms a sudden bend,
from south to east, and works its way through a
narrow channel, deeply worn into the limestone
Strata. The stream, rushing with impetuous
force over a rocky and uneven bottom, presents
a sheet of foam, and seems to bear with im-
patience the straitened confinement of its lofty
banks. A flock of pelicans, and two or three
brown fishing eagles, were fishing in its agitated —
waters, seemingly with great success. There
is a good sturgeon fishery at the foot of the
rapid. Several golden plovers, Canadian gros-
beaks, cross-bills, wood-peckers, and pin-tailed
grouse, were shot to-day; and Mr. Back killed
_ a small striped marmot. This beautiful little
animal was busily employed in carrying in its
distended pouches the seeds of the American
vetch to its winter hoards.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 71

The portage is eighteen hundred yards long,
and its western extemity was found to be in
53° 08' 25” North latitude, and 99° 28’ 02” West
longitude. The route from Canada to the Atha-
basca joins that from York Factory at the
mouth of the Saskatchawan, and we saw traces
of a recent encampment of the Canadian voy-
agers. Our companions in the Hudson’s Bay
boats, dreading an attack from their rivals in
trade, were on the alert at this place. They
examined minutely the spot of encampment, to
form a judgment of the number of canoes that
had preceded them ; and they advanced, armed,
and with great caution, through the woods.
Their fears, however, were fortunately, on this
occasion, groundless.

By noon, on the 12th, the boats and their
cargoes having been conveyed across the port-
age, we embarked, and pursued our course.
The Saskatchawan becomes wider above the
Grand Rapid, and the scenery improves. The
banks are high, composed of white clay and
limestone, and their summits are richly clothed
with a variety of firs, poplars, birches, and wil-
lows. The current runs with great rapidity, and
the channel: is in many places intricate and
dangerous, from broken ridges of rock jutting
into the stream. We pitched our tents at the

72 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

entrance of Cross Lake, having advanced only
five miles and a half.

Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the
N.E,, it is said, for forty miles. We crossed it
at a narrow part, and pulling through several
winding channels, formed by a group of islands;
entered Cedar Lake, which, next to Lake Wini-
peg, is the largest sheet of fresh water we had
hitherto seen. Ducks and geese resort hither in
immense flocks in the spring and autumn. These
birds were now beginning to go off, owing to its
muddy shores having become quite hard through
the nightly frosts. At this place the Aurora
Borealis was extremely brilliant in the night,
its coruscations darting, at times, over the whole
sky, and assuming various prismatic tints, of
which the violet and yellow were predominant.

After pulling, on the 14th, seven miles anda
quarter on the lake, a violent wind drove us for
shelter to a small island, or rather a ridge of
rolled stones, thrown up by the frequent storms
which agitate this lake. The weather did not
moderate the whole day, and we were obliged to
pass the night on this exposed spot. The delay,
however, enabled us to obtain some lunar obser-
vations. The wind having subsided, we left our
resting-place the following morning, crossed the

mainder of the lake, and in the afternoon, ar-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 73.

rived at Muddy Lake, which is very appro-
priately named, as it consists merely of a few
channels, winding amongst extensive mud banks,
which are overflowed during the spring floods.
We landed at an Indian tent, which contained
two numerous families, amounting to thirty souls.
These poor creatures were badly clothed, and re-
duced to a miserable condition by the ravages of
the hooping-cough and measles. At the time of
our arrival they were busy in preparing a sweat-
ing-house for the sick. This is a remedy which
they consider, with the addition of singing and
drumming, to be the grand specific for all diseases.
Our companions having obtained some geese, in
exchange for rum and tobacco, we proceeded a
few more miles, and encamped on Devil’s Drum
Island, having come, during the day, twenty
miles and a half. A second party of Indians
were encamped on an adjoining island, a situa- .
tion chosen for the purpose of killing geese and
ducks. —

On the 16th we proceeded eighteen miles up
the Saskatchawan. Its banks are low, covered
with willows, and lined with drift timber. The
surrounding country is swampy, and intersected
by the numerous arms of the river. After pass-
ing for twenty or thirty yards through the willow
thicket on the banks of the stream, we entered

74 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

upon an extensive marsh, varied only by a dis-
tant line of willows, which marks the course of
a creek or branch of the river. The branch we
navigated to-day is almost five hundred yards
wide. The exhalations from the marshy soil
produced a low fog, although the sky above was
perfectly clear. In the course of the day we
passed an Indian encampment of three tents,
whose inmates appeared to be in a still more
miserable condition than those we saw yesterday.
They had just finished the ceremony of conjura-
tion over some of their sick companions ; and a
dog, which had been recently killed as a sacrifice
to some deity, was hanging to a tree, where it
would be left (I was told) when they moved their
encampment. ape

We continued our voyage up the river to the
20th with little variation of scenery or incident,
travelling in that time about thirty miles. The
near approach of winter was marked by severe
frosts, which continued all day unless when the
sun chanced to be unusually bright, and the
geese and ducks were observed to take a south-
erly course in large flocks. On the morning of
the 20th we came to a party of Indians, encamped
behind the bank of the river on the borders of a
small marshy lake, for the purpose of killing
water-fowl. Here we were gratified with the

OF ‘THE POLAR SEA, 75

view of a very large tent. Its length was about
forty feet, its breadth eighteen, and its covering
was moose deer leather, with apertures for the
escape of the smoke from the fires which are placed
at each end; a ledge of wood was placed on the
ground on both sides the whole length of the
tent, within which were the sleeping places, ar-
ranged probably according to families ; and the
drums and other instruments of enchantment were
piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians
there were a great many half-breeds, who led an
Indian life. Governor Williams gave a dram
and a piece of tobacco to each of the males of the
party.

On the morning of the 2]st a heavy fall of
snow took place, which lasted until two in the
afternoon. In the evening we left the Saskat-
chawan, and entered the Little River, one of the
~ two streams by which Pine Island Lake dis-
charges its waters. We advanced to-day four-
teen miles and a quarter. On, the 22d the wea-
ther was extremely cold and stormy, and we had .
to contend against a strong head wind. The
spray froze as it fell, and the oars were so loaded
with ice as to be almost unmanageable. The
length of our voyage this day was eleven miles.

The following morning was very cold; we em-
barked at day-light, and pulled across a part of

Eee JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Pine Island Lake, about three miles and a half to
Cumberland House. The margin of the lake
was so incrusted with ice, that we had to break
through a considerable space of it to approach
the landing place. When we considered that
this was the effect of only a few days’ frost at
the commencement of winter, we were convinced
of the impracticability of advancing further by
water this season, and therefore resolved on ac-
cepting Governor Williams’s kind invitation to
remain with him at this post. We immediately
visited Mr. Connolly, the resident partner of the
North-West Company, and presented to him Mr.
Mac Gillivray’s circular letter. He assured us that
he should be most desirous to forward our pro-
gress by every means in his power, and we sub-
sequently had ample proofs of his sincerity and
kindness, The unexpected addition of our party _
to the winter residents at this post, rendered an
increase of apartments necessary ; and our men
were immediately appointed to complete and ar-
range an unfinished building as speedily as pos-
sible. — me .
_ November 8.—Some mild Weather succeeded
to the severe frosts we had at our arrival ; and the
lake had not been entirely frozen before the 6th:
but this morning the ice was sufficiently firm to
admit of sledges crossing it. The dogs were

OF THE POLAR SEA. 77

harnessed at a very early hour, and the winter
operations commenced by sending for a supply of
fish from Swampy River, where men had been
stationed to collect it, just before the frost set in.
Both men and dogs appeared to enjoy the change ;
they started in full glee, and drove rapidly along.
An Indian, who had come to the house on the
preceding evening to request some provision for
his family, whom he represented to be in a state
of starvation, accompanied them. His party had
been suffering greatly under the epidemic diseases
of the hooping-cough and measles ; and the hun-
ters were still in too debilitated a state to go out
and provide them with meat. A supply was
given to him, and the men were directed to bring
his father, an old and faithful hunter, to the
house, that he might have the comforts of nourish-
ment and warmth. He was brought accordingly,
but these attentions were unavailing as he died.a
few days afterwards. Two days before his death
d was surprised to observe him sitting for nearly
three hours, in a piercingly sharp day, in the
saw-pit, employed in gathering the dust, and
throwing it by handfuls over his body, which was
naked to the waist. As the man was in posses-
sion of his mental faculties, I conceived he was
performing some devotional act preparatory to his
departure, which he felt to be approaching ; and,

78 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

induced by the novelty of the incident, I went
twice to observe him more closely ; but when he
perceived that he was noticed, he immediately
ceased his operation, hung down his head, and
by his demeanour, intimated that he considered
my appearance an intrusion. The residents at
the fort could give me no information on the sub-
ject, and I could not learn that the Indians in
general observe any particular ceremony on the
approach of death. —

November 15.—The sky had been overcast
during the last week; the sun shone forth once
only, and then not sufficiently for the purpose
of obtaining observations. Faint coruscations
of the Aurora Borealis appeared one evening,
but their presence did not in the least affect the
electrometer nor the compass. The ice daily be-
came thicker in the lake, and the frost had now

nearly overpowered the rapid current of the Sas-

katchawan River; indeed, parties of men who
were sent from both the forts to search for the In-
dians, and procure whatever skins and provisions
they might have collected, crossed that stream
this day on the ice. The white partridges made
their first appearance near to the house, which
birds are considered as the infallible harbingers
of severe weather.

Monday, November 22.—The Saskatchawan,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 79

and every other river, were now completely
covered with ice, except a small stream near to
the fort through which the current ran very power-
fully. In the course of the week we removed into
the house our men had been preparing for us
since our arrival. We found it at first extremely
cold notwithstanding a good fire was kept in each
apartment, and we frequently experienced the
extremes of heat and cold on opposite seg of
the body.

November 24.—We this day obtained obser-
vations for the dip of the needle and intensity of
the magnetic force in a spare room. The dip
was 83° 9° 45", and the difference produced by
reversing the face of the instrument 13° 3' 6".
When the needle was faced to the west it hung
nearly perpendicular. The Aurora Borealis was
faintly visible for a short time last evening.
Some Indians arrived in search of provision,
having been totally incapacitated from hunting
by sickness ;, the poor creatures looked miser-
ably ill, and they represented their distress to
have been extreme. Few recitals are more
affecting than those of their sufferings during
unfavourable seasons, and in bad situations for
hunting and fishing. Many assurances have
been given me that men and women are yet
living who have been reduced to feed upon the

80 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

bodies of their own family, to prevent actual
starvation ; and a shocking case was cited to us
of a woman who had been principal agent in
the destruction of several persons, and amongst
the number her husband and nearest eueatie:
in order to support life.

_ November 28.—The atmosphere had been clear
every day during the last week, about the end of
which snow fell, when the thermometer rose from
20° below to 16° above zero. The Aurora Bo-
realis was twice visible, but faint on both occa-
sions. Its appearance did not affect the electro-
meter, nor could we perceive the compass to be
_ disturbed.

The men brought supplies of moose meat from
the hunters’ tent, which is pitched near the Bas-
quiau Hill, at the distance of forty or fifty miles
from the house, and from whence the greatest
part of the meat is procured. The residents have
to send nearly the same distance for their fish,
and on this service horse-sledges are used. Nets
are daily set in Pine Island Lake which occasion-
ally procure some fine sturgeon, tittameg and
trout, but not more than sufficient to supply the
officers’ table. ; |

December 1.—This day was so remarkably
fine, that we procured another set of observations
for the dip of the needle in the open air; the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 81

instrument being placed firmly on a rock, the
results gaye 83° 14’ 22". The change produced
by tinrine the face of the instrument was
12° 50’ 5

nae was a determined thaw during the last
three days, which caused the Saskatchawan
River, and some parts of the lake, to break up,
and rendered the travelling across either of them
dangerous. On this account the absence of
Wilks, one of our men, caused no small anxiety.
He had incautiously undertaken the charge of
conducting a sledge and dogs, in company with
a person, going to Swampy River for fish. On
their return, being unaccustomed to driving, he
became fatigued, and seated himself on his
sledge, in which situation his companion left him,
presuming that he would soon rise and hasten»
to follow his track. He however returned safe
in the morning, and reported that, foreseeing
night would set in before he could get across
the lake, he prudently retired into the woods
before dark, where he remained until day-light ;
when the men, who had been despatched to look
for him, met him returning to the house, shiver-
ing with cold, he having been unprovided with
the materials for lighting a fire; which an ex-
perienced voyager never neglects to carry.

We had mild weather until the oe of De-

Vou. I.

*

@

$2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

cember. On the 13th there had been a decided

thaw, which caused the Saskatchawan, which
had again frozen, to re-open, and the passage
across it was interrupted for two days. We
now received more agreeable accounts from the
Indians, who were recovering strength, and begin-
ning to hunt a little ; but it is generally feared
that their spirits have been so much depressed
by the loss of their children and relatives, that
the season will be far advanced before they can
be roused to any exertion in searching for ani-
mals beyond what may be necessary for their
own support. It is much to be regretted that
these poor men, during their long intercourse
with Europeans, have not been taught how
pernicious is the grief which produces total in-
activity, and that they have not been furnished
with any of the consolations which the Christian
religion never fails to afford. This, however,
could hardly have been expected from persons
who have permitted their own offspring, the half.
casts, to remain in lamentable ignorance on a
subject of such vital importance. It is probable,
however, that an improvement. will soon take
place among the latter class, as Governor Wil-
liams proposes to make the children attend a
Sunday school, and has already begun to have

divine service performed at his post.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 83

The conversations which I had with the gentle-
men in charge of these posts, convinced me of
the necessity of proceeding during the winter
into the Athabasca department, the residents of
which are best acquainted with the nature and
resources of the country lying to the north of
the Great Slave Lake; and from whence only
guides, hunters, and interpreters can be pro-
cured. I had previously written to the partners
of the North West Company in that quarter, re-
questing their assistance in forwarding the Ex-
pedition, and stating what we should require of
them; but, on reviewing the matter, and reflect-
ing upon the accidents that might delay these
letters on the road, I determined on proceeding

to the Athabasca as soon as I possibly could,
and communicated my intention to Governor
Williams and Mr. Connolly, with a request that
I might be furnished, by the middle of January,
with the means of conveyance for three persons,
intending that Mr. Back and Hepburn should
accompany mie, whilst Dr. Richardson and Mr.
Hood remained till the spring at Cumberland
_ After the 20th of December the weather became

cold, the thermometer constantly below Zero.
Christmas-day was particularly stormy; but the
galé did not prevent the full enjoyment of the

G2

$4 JOURNEY T6 THE SHORES

festivities which are annually given at Cumber-
land House on this day. All the men who had
been despatched to different parts in search of
provision or furs returned to the fort on the
occasion, and were regaled with a substantial
dinner and a dance in the evening. ,
_ _ The new year was ushered in by repeated
Jan. 1. discharges of musketry; a ceremony which
has been observed by the men of both the trading
Companies for many years. Our party dined
with Mr. Connolly, and were treated with a
beaver, which we found extremely delicate. In
the evening his men were entertained with a
dance, in which the Canadians exhibited some
grace and much agility ; and they contrived to
infuse some. portion of their activity and spirits
into the steps of their female companions. _ The
halfbreed women are passionately fond of this
amusement, but a stranger would imagine the
contrary on witnessing their apparent want of
animation. On such occasions they affect a so-
briety of demeanour which I understand to be
the very opposite to their general character.
January 10.—This day I wrote to Governor
Williams and Mr. Connolly, requesting them to
Prepare two canoes, with crews and appoint
ments, for the conveyance of Dr. Richardsot —
and Mr. Hood, with our stores to Chipewyan as —

OF THE POLAR SEA. 85

soon as the navigation should open, and had the
satisfaction of receiving from both these gentle-
men renewed assurances of their desire to pro-
mote the objects of the Expedition. I conceived
it to be necessary, previous to my departure, to
. make some arrangement respecting the men who
were engaged at Stromness. Only one of them
was disposed to extend his engagement,’ and
proceed beyond the Athabasca Lake: and, as
I found there was much uncertainty whether the
remaining three could get from the Athabasca to
York Factory sufficiently early to secure them a
passage in the next Hudson’s Bay ship, I re-
solved not to take them forward, unless Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Hood should fail in pro-
curing other men from these establishments next
spring, but to despatch them down to York to
bring up our stores to this place: after which
they might return to the coast in time to secure
their passage in the first ship.

I delivered to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood
a memorandum, containing the arrangements
which had been made with the two Companies,
respecting their being forwarded in the spring,
and some other points of instruction for their
guidance in my absence; together with direc-
tions to forward the map of our route which had
been finished, since our arrival, by Mr. Hood,

86 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the drawings and the collections of natural his-
tory, by the first opportunity to York Factory,
for conveyance to England*.

The houses of the two Companies, at this
post are situated close to each other, at the up-
per extremity of a narrow island, which sepa-
rates Pine Island Lake from the Saskatchawan
River, and are about two miles and three quar-
ters distant from the latter, in a northern direc-
tion. They are log-houses, built without much
attention to comfort, surrounded by lofty stock-
ades, and flanked with wooden bastions. The
difficulty of conveying glass into the interior has
precluded the use of that material in the construc-
tion of the windows, and its place is poorly sup-
plied by parchment, imperfectly made by the
native women from the skin of the rein-deer.
Should this post, however, continue to be the resi-
dence of Governor Williams, it will be much
improved in a few years, as he is devoting his,
attention to that point. The land around Cum-
berland House is low, but the soil, from having a
considerable intermixture of limestone, is good,
and capable of producing abundance of corn, and.

* As Samuel Wilks, who had accompanied the Expedition f from.
proved to be quite unequal to igue of the journey,

I directed him to be discharged in the spring, and sent to England

by the next ship.

OF THE POLAR SFA. 87

vegetables of every description. Many kinds of
pot-herbs have already been brought to some
perfection, and the potatoes bid: fair to equal
those of England. The spontaneous productions
of nature would afford ample nourishment for all
the European animals. Horses feed extremely
well even during the winter, and so would oxen,
if provided with hay, which may be easily done *.
Pigs also improve, but require to be kept warm
im the winter. Hence it appears, that the resi-
dents might with common attention, render them-
selves far less dependant on the Indians for sup-
port, and be relieved from the great anxiety
which they too often suffer when the hunters are
unsuccessful. The neighbourhood of the houses
has been much cleared of wood, from the great
demand for fuel ; there is, therefore, little to ad-
mire in the surrounding scenery, especially in
its winter garb ; few animated objects occur to
enliven the scene; an occasional fox, marten,
rabbit, or wolf, and a few birds, contribute the
only variety. The birds which remained were

* “The wild buffalo serapes away the snow with its feet to get
at the herbage beneath, and the horse, which was introduced by
the Spanish invaders of Mexico, and may be said to have become
naturalized, does the same ; but it is worthy of remark, that the ox
more lately brought from Europe, has. not yet acquired an art so
necessary for procuring its food.’—(Extract from Dr. Richardson's
Journal.)

83 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ravens, magpies, partridges, cross bills, and
woodpeckers. In this universal stillness, the
residents at a post feel little disposed to wander
abroad, except when called forth by their occu-
pations ; and as ours were of a kind best per-
formed in a warm room, we imperceptibly ac-
quired a sedentary habit. In going out, how-
ever, we never suffered the slightest inconveni-
ence from the change of temperature, though the
thermometer, in the open air, stood occasionall y
thirty degrees below zero.

The tribe of Indians, who reside inthe vicinity,
and frequent these establishments, is that of the
Crees, or Knisteneaux. They were formerly a
powerful and numerous nation, which ranged
over a very extensive country, and were most
successful in their predatory excursions against
their neighbours, particularly the northern In-
dians, and some tribes on the Saskatchawan and
Beaver Rivers ; but they have long ceased to be
held in any fear, and are now, perhaps, the most
harmless and inoffensive of the whole Indian
race. This change is entirely to be attributed
to their intercourse with Europeans ; and the vast
reduction in their numbers occasioned, I fear, in
a considerable degree, by the injudicious intro-

ion amongst them of ardent spirits. They p
are So passionately fond of this poison, that they —

OF THE POLAR SEA. 89

will make any sacrifice to obtain it. They are
esteemed good hunters, and are generally as-
Siduous in the occupation. Having laid the bow
and arrow altogether aside, and the use of snares,
except for rabbits and partridges, they depend
entirely on the Europeans for the means of gain-
ing their subsistence, as they require guns, and
a constant supply of powder and shot; so that
these Indians are probably more cohapletely.
under the power of the trader than any of the
other tribes. As I only saw a few straggling
parties of them during short intervals, and under
unfavourable circumstances of sickness and fa-
mine, Iam unable to give, from personal obser-
vation, any account of their manners and customs ;
I must refer the reader, therefore, to Dr. Richard-
son’s account of them, which will be found in the
following chapter. That gentleman, during his
longer residence at the post, had many oppor-
tunities of seeing the natives, and made consi-
derable progress in their language.

January 17, —This morning the sporting ait
of our society had rather a novel diversion: in-
telligence having been brought that a wolf had
borne away a steel trap, in which he had been
caught, a party went in search of the marauder,
and took two English bull dogs and a terrier,
‘which had been brought into the country this

90 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

season. On the first sight of the animal the dogs
became alarmed, and stood barking at a distance,
and probably would not have ventured to ad-
vance, had they not seen the wolf fall by a shot
from one of the gentlemen; they then, however, °
went up, and behaved courageously, and were
enraged by the bites they received.’ The wolf
soon died of its wounds, and the body was
brought to the house, where a drawing of it was
taken by Mr. Hood, and the skin preserved by
Dr. Richardson. Its general features bore a
strong resemblance to many of the dogs about
the fort, but it was larger and had a more fero-
cious aspect. Mr. Back and I were too much
occupied in preparing for our departure on the
following day to join this excursion.

The position of Cumberland House, by our
: eres, is, latitude 53° 56’ 40’ N., longi-
4 10

83° 12 50’. The whole of the travelling dis-
tance between York Factory and Cumberland
House is about six hundred and ninety miles.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 91

CHAPTER III.

Dr. Richardson’s Residence at Cumberland Home Account of
the Cree Indians.

Sena ab From the departure of Messrs. Frank-
lin and Back, on the 19th of January, for Chi-
pewyan, until the opening of the navigation in
the spring, the occurrences connected: with the
Expedition were so much in the ordinary routine
of a winter’s residence at Fort Cumberland, that
they may be, perhaps, appropriately blended with
the following general but brief account of that
district and its inhabitants.

Cumberland House was originally built by:
Hearne, a year or two after his return from the
Copper-mine River, and has ever since b n.con.
sidered by the Hudson’s Bay Company as a post
of considerable importance. Previous to that time,
the natives carried their furs down to the shores of
Hudson’s Bay, or disposed of them nearer home

- to the French Canadian traders, who visited this
3 et of the country as early as the year 1697.

~The Cumberland House district, extending

92 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

about one hundred and fifty miles from east to
west along the banks of the Saskatchawan, and
about as far from north to south, comprehends,
ona rough calculation, upwards of twenty thou-
sand square miles, and is frequented at present
by about one hundred and twenty Indian hunters.
Of these a few have several wives, but the ma-
jority have only one ; and, as some are unmar-
ried, we shall not err greatly in considering the
number of married women as only slightly exceed-
ing that of the hunters. The women marry very
young, have a custom of suckling their children

for several years, and are besides exposed con- —

stantly to fatigue and often to famine; hence
they are not prolific, bearing upon an average
not more than four children, of whom two may
attain the age of puberty. Upon these data, the
amount of each family may be stated at five, and
the whole Indian population in the district at five
hundred.

This is but a small population for such an
extent of country, yet their mode of life occa-
sionally subjects them to great privations. The
winter of our residence at Cumberland House
Ag extremely severe to the Indians. The

them in the autumn, and was followed by the

ing-cough made its appearance amongst —

asles, which in the course of the winter spread

OF THE POLAR SEA. 93

through the tribe. Many died, aud most of the

survivors were so enfeebled as to be unable to
pursue the necessary avocations of hunting and
fishing. Even those who experienced only a
slight attack, or escaped the sickness altogether,
dispirited by the scenes of misery which envi-
roned them, were rendered incapable of afford-
ing relief to their distressed relations, and spent
their time in conjuring and drumming to avert
the pestilence. Those who were able came to
the fort and received relief, but many who had
retired with their families to distant corners, to
pursue their winter hunts, experienced all the
horrors of famine. One evening, early in the
month of January, a poor Indian entered the
North-West Company’s House, carrying his only
child in his arms, and followed by his starving
wife. They had been hunting apart from the
other bands, had been unsuccessful, and whilst
in want were seized with the epidemical disease.
An Indian is accustomed to starve, and it is not
easy to elicit from him an account of his suffer-
ings. This poor man’s story was very brief; as
soon as the fever abated, he set out with his wife
for Cumberland House, having been previously
reduced to feed on the bits of skin | and offal,

which remained about their encampment. Even

this miserable fare was exhausted, and they

ae
..

94 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

walked several days without eating, yet exerting
themselves far beyond their strength that they
might save the life of the infant. It died almost
within sight of the house. Mr. Connolly, who
was then in charge of the post, received them
with the utmost humanity, and instantly placed
food before them; but no language can describe
the manner in which the miserable father dashed
the morsel from his lips and deplored the loss of
his child. Misery may harden a disposition
naturally bad, but it never fails to soften the
heart of a good man.

The origin of the Crees, to which nation the
Cumberland House Indians belong, is, like that
of the other Aborigines of America, involved in
obscurity; but the researches now making into
the nature and affinities of the languages spoken
by the different Indian tribes, may eventually
throw some light on the subject. Indeed, the
American philologists seem to have suceeeded
already in classing the known dialects into three
languages:—Ist. The Floridean, spoken by the
Creeks, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Cherokees, Pas-
cagoulas, and some other tribes, who inhabit the
southern parts of the United States. 2d. The
Troquois, spoken by the Mengwe, or Six Nations,
the Wyandots, the Nadowessies, and Asseenee-
poytuck. 3d. The Lenni-lenapé, spoken by 2

%

OF THE POLAR SEA. 95

great family more widely spread than the other
two, and from which, together with a vast number
of other tribes, are sprung our Crees. Mr.
Heckewelder, a Missionary, who resided long
amongst these people, and from whose paper,
(published in the Transactions of the American
Philosophical Society,) the above classification
is taken, states that the Lenapé have a tradition
amongst them, of their ancestors having come
from the westward, and taking possession of the
whole country.from the Missouri to the Atlantic,
after driving away or destroying the original
inhabitants of the land, whom they termed Al-
ligewi. In this migration and contest, which
endured fora series of years, the Mengwe, or Iro-
quois, kept pace with them, moving in a parallel
but more northerly line, and finally settling on
the banks of the St. Lawrence, and the great
lakes from whence it flows. The Lenape, being
more numerous, peopled not only the greater part
of the country at present occupied by the United
States, but also sent detachments to the north-
ward as far as the banks of the River Missis-
sippi and the shores of Hudson’s Bay. The
principal of their northern tribes are now known
under the names of Saulteurs or Chippeways,
and Crees; the former inhabiting the country
betwixt Lakes Winipeg and Superior, the latter

i

96 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

frequenting the shores of Hudson’s Bay, from
. Moose to Churchill, and the country from thence
as far to the westward as the plains which lie
betwixt the forks of the Saskatchawan.

These Crees, formerly known by the French
Canadian traders under the appellation of Knis-
teneaux, generally designate themselves as

Eithinyoowuc (men), or, when they wish to
discriminate themselves from the other Indian
nations, as Nathehwy-withinyoowuc (Southern-
men) *,

Moose Factory to be a
branch of that tribe of the Lenape, which is named Minsi, or Wolf

interesting account of his journeys in these countries, They are
said to be great rascals, The great body of the Crees were at that
time named Opimmitish Ininiwuc, or Men of the Woods. It would,
however, be an endless task to attempt to determine the precise
people designated by the early French writers, Every small band,
naming itself from its hunting grounds, was described as a different
nation. Chippeways who frequented the Lake of the Woods
were named from a particular act of pillage~ Pilliers, or Robbers:
and the name Saulteurs, applied to a principal band that frequented
the Sault St. Marie, has been by degrees extended to the whole tribe:
It is frequently pronounced and written Sotoos, '

OF THE POLAR SEA. 97

The original character of the Crees must have
been much modified by their long intercoursé
with Europeans; hence it is to be understood,
that we confine ourselves in the following sketch
to their present condition, and more particularly
to the Crees of Cumberland House. The moral
character of a hunter is acted upon by the nature
of the land he inhabits, the abundance or scarcity
of food, and we may add, in the present case, his
means of access to spirituous liquors. Ina country
So various in these respects as that inhabited by
the Crees, the causes alluded to must operate
strongly in producing a considerable difference of
character amongst the various hordes. It may
be proper to bear in mind also, that we are about
to draw the character of a people whose only rule
of conduct is public opinion, and to try them by
a morality founded on divine revelation, the only
standard that can be referred to by those who
have been educated in a land to which the bless-
ings of the Gospel have extended.

Bearing these considerations in mind then, we
may state the Crees to be a vain, fickle, impro-

vident, and indolent race, and not very strict in
their adherence to truth, being great boasters ;
but, on the other hand, they strictly regard the
rights of property*, are susceptible of the

* This is, perhaps, true of the Cuesberland House Crees alone:
Vor. H

98 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

kinder affections, capable of friendship, very hos-
pitable, tolerably kind to their women, and withal
inclined to peace.
Much of the faulty part of their character, no
doubt, originates in their mode of life; accus-
tomed as a hunter to depend greatly on chance
for his subsistence, the Cree takes little thought
of to-morrow ; and the most offensive part of his
behaviour—the habit of boasting—has been pro-
bably assumed as a necessary part of his armour,
which operates upon the fears of his enemies.
They are countenanced, however, in this failing, |
by the practice of the ancient Greeks, and per-
haps by that of every other nation in its ruder
state. Every Cree fears the medical or conjuring
powers of his neighbour ; but at the same time
exalts his own attainments to the skies, “ I am
God-like,” is a common expression amongst
them, and they prove their divinity-ship by eat-
ing live coals, and by various tricks of a simi-
lar nature. A medicine bag is an indispensable
part of a hunter’s equipment. It is generally
furnished with a little bit of indigo, blue’ vitriol,
vermilion, or some other showy article ; and is,.
when in the hands of a noted conjurer, such ab
object of terror to the rest of the tribe, that its

many of the other tribes of Crees are stated by the traders to be
thieves.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 99

possessor is enabled to fatten at his ease upon
the labours of his deluded countrymen.

A fellow of this description came to Cumber-
land House in the winter of 1819. Notwith-
standing the then miserable state of the Indians,
the rapacity of this wretch had been preying upon
their necessities, and a poor hunter was actually
at the moment pining away under the influence
of his threats. The mighty conjurer, immediate-
ly on his arrival. at the House, began to trumpet
forth his powers, boasting, among other things,
that although his hands and feet were tied as se-
curely as possible, yet when placed in a con-
Juring-house, he would speedily disengage him-
self by the aid of two or three familiar spirits,
who were attendant.on his call. He was instant-
ly taken at his word, and that his exertions might
not be without an aim, a capot or great coat was
promised as the reward of his success. A con-
juring-house having been erected in the usual
form, that is, by sticking four willows in the
ground, and tying their tops to a hoop at the
height of six or eight feet, he was fettered com-
pletely by. winding several fathoms of rope round
his body and extremities, and placed in its nar-
row apartment, not exceeding two feet in diame-
ter. A moose skin beirtg thrown over the

frame, secluded him from our view. He forth- |
H 2 ll

100 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with began to chant a kind of hymn in a very
monotonous tone. The rest of the Indians, who
Seemed in some doubt respecting the powers of
a devil when put in competition with those of a
white man, ranged themselves around, and watch-
ed the result with anxiety. Nothing remarkable
occurred fora longtime. The conjurer continued
his song at intervals, and it was occasionally
taken up by those without. In this manner an
hour and a half elapsed ; but at length our at-
tention, which had begun to flag, was roused by
the violent shaking of the conjuring-house. It
was instantly whispered round the circle, that at
least one devil had crept under the moose-skin.
But it proved to be only the “ God-like man”
trembling with cold. He had entered the lists,
Stript to the skin, and the thermometer stood very
low that evening. His attempts were continued,
however, with considerable resolution for half an
hour longer, when he reluctantly gaye in. He
had found no difficulty in slipping through the
noose when it was formed by his countrymen ;
but, in the present instance, the knot was tied by
Governor Williams, who is an expert sailor.
After this unsuccessful exhibition, his credit sunk
amazingly, and he took the earliest opportunity
of sneaking away from the fort!

_ About two years ago a conjurer paid more

OF THE POLAR SEA. 101

dearly for his temerity. In a quarrel with an
Indian he threw out some obscure threats of
vengeance, which passed unnoticed at the time,
but were afterwards remembered. They met in
the spring at Carlton House, after passing the
winter in different parts of the country, during
which the Indian’s child died. The conjurer had
the folly to boast that he had caused its death,
and the enraged father shot him dead on the spot.
It may be remarked, however, that both these In-
dians were inhabitants of the plains, and had
been taught, by their intercourse with the tur-
bulent Stone Indians, to set but comparatively
little value on the lifeofa man. =
It might be thought that the Crees have bene-
fited by their long intercourse with civilized
nations. That this is not so much the case as it
ought to be, is not entirely their own fault.
They are capable of being, and I believe will-
ing to be, taught; but no pains have hitherto
been taken to inform their minds*, and their
white acquaintances seem in general to find it
easier to descend to the Indian customs, and
* Since these remarks were written the union of the rival com-
panies has enabled the gentlemen who have now the manageme t
of the fur trade, to take some decided steps for the religious in-
struction and improvement of the natives and half-breed Indians,
which have been more particularly referred to in the introduction,

102 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

modes of thinking, particularly with respect to
women, than to attempt to raise the Indians to
their’s. Indeed such a lamentable want of mo-
tality has been displayed by the white traders
in their contests for the interests of their respec:
tive companies, that it would require a long
Series of good conduct to efface from the minds
of the native population the ideas they have
formed of the white character. Notwithstand-

ing the frequent violations of the rights of pro-

perty they have witnessed, and but too often ex-
perienced, in their own persons, these Savages,
as they are termed, remain strictly honest,
During their visits to a post, they are suffered to
enter every apartment in the house, without the
least restraint, and although articles of value to
them are scattered about, nothing is ever missed.
They scrupulously avoid moving any thing from
‘its place, although they are often prompted by
curiosity to examine it. In some cases, indeed,

Y

they carry this principle toa degree of self-denial

Which would hardly be expected. It often hap-

pens that meat, which has been paid for, (if the

poisonous draught it procures them can be con-

' sidered as payment,) is left at their lodges until

a convenient opportunity occurs of carrying it

away. They will rather pass several days with-
: *

yt

OF THE POLAR SEA. 103

out eating than touch the meat thus intrusted to
their charge, even when there exists a prospect
of replacing it.

The hospitality of the Crees is unbounded.
They afford a certain asylum to the half-breed
children when deserted by their unnatural white
fathers ; and the infirm, and indeed every indi-
vidual in an encampment, share the provisions
of a successful hunter as long as they last. Fond
too as a Cree is of spirituous liquors, he is not
happy unless all his neighbours partake with
him. It is not easy, however, to say what share
ostentation may have in the apparent munificence
in the latter article; for when an Indian, by a good
hunt, is enabled to treat the others with a keg of
rum, he becomes the chief of a night, assumes no
little stateliness of manner, and is treated with de-
ference by those who regale at his expense.
Prompted also by the desire of gaining a name,
they lavish away the articles they purchase at the
trading posts, and are well satisfied if repaid in
praise.

Gaming is not uncommon amongst the Crees
of all the different districts, but it is pursued to
greater lengths by those bands who frequent the
plains, and who, from the ease with which they
obtain food, have abundant leisure. The game
most in use amongst them, termed puckesann, is

104 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

played with the stones ofa species of prunus which,
from this cireumstance,they term puckesann-meena.
The difficulty lies in guessing the number of
stones which are tossed out of a small wooden
dish, and the hunters will spend whole nights at
the destructive sport, staking their most valuable
articles, powder and shot.
It has been remakred by some writers that the
aboriginal inhabitants of America are deficient in
passion for the fair sex. This is by no means
the case with the Crees; on the contrary, their
practice of seducing each other’s wives, proves
the most fertile source of their quarrels. When
the guilty pair are detected, the woman generally
receives a severe beating, but the husband is, for
the most part, afraid to reproach the male culprit
until they get drunk together at the fort; then the
remembrance of the offence is revived, a struggle
ensues, and the affair is terminated by the loss of
a few handfuls of hair. Some husbands, however,
feel more deeply the injury done to their honour,
and seek revenge even in their sober moments.
In such cases it is not uncommon for the offended
party to walk with great gravity up to the other,
and deliberately seizing his gun, or some other
article of value; to break it before his face. The
adulterer looks on in silence, afraid to make any
attempt to save his property. In this respect,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 105

indeed, the Indian character seems to differ from
the European, that an Indian, instead of letting
his anger increase with that of his antagonist,
assumes the utmost coolness, lest he should push
him to extremities. .

Although adultery is sometimes punished
amongst the Crees in the manner above de-
scribed, yet it is no crime, provided the husband
receives a valuable consideration for his wife’s
prostitution. Neither is chastity considered asa
virtue in a female before marriage,that is, before
she becomes the exclusive property of one hunter.

The Cree women are not in general treated
harshly by their husbands, and possess consider-
able influence over them. They often eat, and
even get drunk, in consort with the men ; a con-
siderable portion of the labour, however falls to
the lot of the wife. She makes the hut, cooks,
dresses the skins, and for the most part, carries
the heaviest load : but, when she is unable to per-
form her task, the husband does not consider it
beneath his dignity to assist her. In illustration
of this remark, I may quote the case of an Indian
who visited the fort in winter. This poor man’s
wife had lost her feet by the frost, and he was
compelled, not only to hunt, and do all the menial
offices himself, but in winter to drag his wife

106 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with their stock of furniture from one encamp-
ment to another. In the performance of this
duty, as he could not keep pace with the rest of
the tribe in their movements, he more than once
nearly perished of hunger.

These Indians, however, capable as they are
of behaving thus kindly, affect in their discourse
to despise the softer sex, and on solemn occasions,
will not suffer them to eat before them or even
come into their presence. In this they are coun-
tenanced by the white residents, most of whom
have Indian or half-breed wives, but seem afraid
of treating them with the tenderness or attention
due to every female, lest they should themselves
be despised by the Indians. At least, this is the
only reason they assign for their neglect of those
whom they make partners of their beds and
mothers of their children. i

Both sexes are fond of, and excessively indul- _
gent to, their children. The father never punishes
them, and if the mother, more hasty in her tem-
per, sometimes bestows a blow or two on a
troublesome child, her heart is instantly softened
by the roar which follows, and she mingles her —
tears with those that streak the smoky face of her
darling. It may be fairly said, then, that re —
straint or punishment forms no part of the educa-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 107

~ tion of an Indian child, nor are they early trained
to that command over their temper which they
exhibit in after years.

The discourse of the parents is never re-
strained by the presence of their children, every
transaction between the sexes being openly talked
of before them.

The Crees having early obtained arms from the
European traders, were enabled to make harass-
ing inroads on the lands of their neighbours,
and are known to have made war excursions as
far to the westward as the Rocky Mountains, and
to the northward as far as M‘Kenzie’s River ; but
their enemies being now as well armed as them-
Selves, the case is much altered.

They shew great fortitude in the endurance of
hunger, and the other evils incident to a hunter’s
life; but any unusual accident dispirits them at
once, and they seldom venture to meet their
enemies in open warfare, or to attack them even
by surprise, unless with the advantage of superi-
ority of numbers. Perhaps they are much dete-
riorated in this respect by their intercourse with
Europeans. Their existence at present hangs ©
upon the supplies of ammunition and clothing
they receive from the traders, and they deeply
feel their dependant situation. But their cha-
racter has been still more debased by the passion

108 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

for spirituous liquors, so assiduously fostered
among them. To obtain the noxious beverage,
_ they descend to the most humiliating entreaties,
and assume an abjectness of behaviour which
does not seem natural to them, and of which not
a vestige is to be seen in their intercourse with
each other. Their character has sunk among the
neighbouring nations. They are no longer the
warriors who drove before them the inhabitants
of the Saskatchawan and Missinippi. The Cum-
berland House Crees, in particular, have been
long disused to war. Betwixt them and their
ancient enemies, the Slave nations, lie the exten-
Sive plains of the Saskatchawan, inhabited by
the powerful Asseeneepoytuck, or Stone Indians,
who having whilst yet a small tribe, entered the —
country under the patronage of the Crees, now
render back the protection they received.

The manners and customs of the Crees have,
probably, since their acquaintance with Euro-
peans, undergone a change, at least, equal to that
which has taken place in their moral character ;
and, although we heard of many practices pe-
culiar to them, yet they appeared to be nearly as
much honoured in the breach a8 the observance.
We shall, however, briefly notice a few of the
most remarkable customs. |

When a hunter marries his first wife, he usually

OF THE POLAR SEA. 109

takes up his abode in the tent of his father-in-law,
and of course hunts for the family ; but when he
becomes a father, the families are at liberty to”
Separate, or remain together, as their inclina-
tions prompt them. His second wife is for the
most part the sister of the first, but not necessa-
rily so, for an Indian of another family often
presses his daughter upon a hunter whom he
knows to be capable of maintaining her well.
The first wife always remains the mistress of the
tent, and assumes an authority over the others,
which is not in every case quietly submitted to.
It may be remarked, that whilst an Indian resides
with his wife’s family, it is extremely improper
for his mother-in-law to speak, or even look at
him; and when she has a communication to make,
it is the etiquette that she should turn her back
upon him, and address him only through the
medium of a third person. This singular custom
is not very creditable to the Indians, if it really
had its origin in the cause which they at present
assign for it, namely, that a woman’s speaking to
her son-in-law is a sure indication of her having
conceived a criminal affection for him.

It appears also to have been an ancient practice
for an Indian to avoid eating or sitting down
in the presence of the father-in-law. We re-

110 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ceived no account of the origin of this custom,

and it is now almost obsolete amongst the Cum-
~berland House Crees, though still partially ob-
served by those who frequent Carlton.

Tattooing is almost universal with the Crees,
The women are in general content with having
one or two lines drawn from the corners of the
mouth towards the angles of the lower jaw ; but
some of the men have their bodies covered with
a great variety of lines and figures. It seems to
be considered by most rather as a proof of cou-
rage than an ornament, the operation being very
painful, and, if the figures are numerous and in-
tricate, lasting several days. The lines on the
face are formed by dexterously running an awl
under the cuticle, and then drawing a cord, dipt
in charcoal and water, through the canal thus
formed. The punctures on the body are formed
by needles of various sizes set in a frame. A
number of hawk bells attached to this frame serve
by their noise to cover the suppressed groans of
the sufferer, and, probably for the same reason,
the process is accompanied with singing. An in-
delible stain is produced by rubbing a _ little

_ finely-powdered willow-charcoal into the pune-
tures. A half-breed, whose arm I amputated,
declared, that tattooing was not only the most

OF THE POLAR SEA. 111

painful operation of the two, but rendered in-
finitely more difficult to bear by its tediousness,
having lasted in his case three days.

A Cree woman, at certain periods, is laid
under considerable restraint. _ They are far, how-
ever, from carrying matters to the extremities
mentioned by Hearne in his description of the
Chipewyans, or Northern Indians. She lives
apart from her husband also for two months if she
has borne a boy, and for three if she has given
birth to a girl.

Many ofthe Cree hunters are careful to ‘pre-
vent a woman from partaking of the head of a
moose-deer, lest it should spoil their future hunts }
and for the same reason they avoid bringing it
to a fort, fearing lest the white people should
give the bones to the dogs.

The games or sports of the Crees are various.
One, termed the game of the Mitten, is played
with four balls, three of which are plain, and one
marked. These being hid under as many mit-
tens, the opposite party is required to fix on that
which is marked. He gives or receives a feather
according as he guesses right or wrong. When
the feathers which are ten in number, have all
passed into one hand, a new division is made;

-but when one of the parties obtains possession of
them thrice, he seizes on the stakes.

*

112 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The game of Platter is more intricate, and is
played with the claws of<a bear, or some other
animal, marked with various lines and charac-
ters. These dice, which are eight in number,
and cut flat at their large end, are shook together
in a wooden dish, tossed into the air and caught
again. The lines, traced on such claws as hap-
pen to alight on the platter in an erect position,
indicate what number of counters the caster is to
receive from his opponent.

They have, however, a much more manly
amusement termed the Cross, although they do
not engage even in it without depositing consi-
derable stakes. An extensive meadow is chosen
for this sport, and the articles staked are tied to

“a post, or deposited in the custody of two old
men. The combatants being stript and painted,
and each provided with a kind of battledore or
racket, in shape resembling the letter P, with
a handle about two feet long, and a head loosely
wrought with net-work, so as to form a shallow
bag, range themselves ondifferent sides. A ball
being now tossed up in the middle, each party
endeavours to drive it to their respective goals,
and much dexterity and agility is displayed im
the contest. When a nimble runner gets the ball
in his cross, he sets off towards the goal with the
utmost speed, and is followed by the rest, who

©

OF THE POLAR SEA. 113

endeavour to jostle him and shake it out; but,
if hard pressed, he discharges it with a jerk, to
be forwarded by his own party, or bandied back
by their opponents, until the victory is decided
by its passing the goal.

Of the religious opinions of the Crees, it is
difficult to give a correct account, not only because
they shew a disinclination to enter upon the sub-
ject, but because their ancient traditions are
mingled with the information they have more
recently obtained, by their intercourse with
Europeans.

None of them. ventured to deacwibe the ctiinad
formation of the world, but they all spoke of an
universal deluge, caused by an attempt of the
fish to drown Weesack-ootchacht, a kind of demi-
god, with whom they had quarrelled. Having
constructed a raft, he embarked with his family
and all kinds of birds and beasts. After the
flood had continued for some time, he ordered
several water-fowl to dive to the bottom; they
were all drowned: but a musk-rat having been
despatched on the same errand, was more suc-
cessful, and returned with a mouthful of mud,
out of which Weesack-ootchacht, imitating the
mode in “which the rats construct their houses,
formed a new earth. | First, a small conical hill
of mud appeared above the water ; iii

Vou. I.

114 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

its base gradually spreading out, it became an
extensive bank, which the rays of the sun at
length hardened into firm land. Notwithstand-
ing the power that Weesack-ootchacht here dis-
played, his person is held in very little reverence
by the Indians; and, in return, he seizes every
opportunity of tormenting them. His conduct is
far from being moral, and his amours, and the
disguises he assumes in the prosecution of them,
“are more various and extraordinary than those
of the Grecian Jupiter himself: but as his ad-
ventures are more remarkable for their eccen-
tricity than their delicacy, it is better to pass
them over in silence. Before we quit him, how-
ever, we may remark, that he converses with all
kinds of birds and beasts in their own languages,
constantly addressing them by the title of bro-
ther, but through an inherent suspicion of his
intentions, they are seldom willing to admit of
his claims of relationship. The Indians make
no sacrifices to him, not even to avert his wrath.
They pay a kind of worship, however, and make |
—* a being, whom sad term Kepooc

“This deity is represented sometimes by 1
images of the human figure, but more commonly
merely by tying the tops of a few willow bushes
together ; and the offerings to him consist 4

OF THE POLAR SEA. , 115

every thing that is valuable to an Indian ; yet they
treat him with considerable familiarity, inter-
larding their most solemn speeches with expos-
tulations and threats of neglect, if he fails in com-
plying with their requests. As most of their
petitions are for plenty of food, they do not trust
entirely to the favour of Kepoochikawn, but en-
deavour, at the same time, to propitiate the anv-
mal, an imaginary representative of the whole.
Trace of larger quadrupeds that are ee of the
chase.

in the month of May, whilst I was at Carlton
House, the Cree hunter, engaged to attend that
post, resolved upon dedicating several articles
to Kepoochikawn, and as I had made some in-
quiries of him respecting their modes of worship,
he gave me an invitation to be present. The
ceremony took place in a sweating-house, or as
it may be designated from its more important
use, a temple, which was erected for the occasion
by the worshipper’s two wives. It was framed
of arched willows, interlaced'so as to form a vault
capable of containing ten or twelve men, ranged
closely side by side, and high enough to admit
of their sitting erect. It was very similar in
shape to an oven or the kraal of a Hottentot, and
was closely covered with moose skins, except at
the east end, which was left open oe a door,

116 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Near the centre of the building there was a hole
in the ground, which contained ten or twelve red-
hot stones, having a few leaves of the taccohay-
menan, a species of prunus, strewed around them.
When the women had completed the prepara-
tions, the hunter made his appearance, perfectly
naked, carrying in his hand an image of Kepoo-
chikawn, rudely carved, and about two feet long.
"He placed his god at the upper end of the sweat: -
ing-house, with his face towards the door, and
proceeded to tie round its neck his offerings, con- ‘
sisting of a cotton handkerchief, a looking-glass, ~
a tin pan, a piece of riband, and a bit of tobaceo,
which he had procured the same day, at the ex-
pense of fifteen or twenty skins. Whilst he was
thus: occupied, several other Crees, who were en-
camped in the neighbourhood, having been in-
formed of what was going on, arrived, and strip-
ping at the door of the temple, entered, and ranged
themselves on each side ; the hunter himself
Squatted down at the right hand of Kepoochi-
kawn. The atmosphere of the temple having
become so hot that none but zealous worshippers
would venture in, the interpreter and myself sat
down on the threshold, and the two women re-
mained on the outside as attendants. |
_ The hunter, who throughout officiated as high
riest, commenced by making a speech to Ke

OF THE POLAR SEA, 117

poochikawn, in which he requested him to be
propitious, told him of the value of the things
now presented, and cautioned him against ingra-
titude. This oration was delivered in a mono-
‘tonous tone, and with great rapidity of utterance,
and the speaker retained his Squatting posture,
but turned his face to his god. At its conclusion,
the priest began a hymn, of which the burthen
was, “I will walk with God, I will go with the,
animal ;” and, at the end of each stanza, the rest
joined in an insignificant chorus. He next took
up a calumet, filled with a mixture of tobacco
and bear-berry leaves, and holding its stem by
the middle, in a horizontal position, over the hot
Stones, turned it slowly in a circular manner, fol-
lowing the course of the sun. Its mouth-piece
being then with much formality, held for a few
seconds to the face of Kepoochikawn, it was next
presented to the earth, having been previously
turned a second time over the hot stones; and
afterwards, with equal ceremony, pointed in suc-
cession to the four quarters of the sky; then
drawing afew whiffs from the calumet himself, he
handed it to his left-hand neighbour, by whom it
was gravely passed round the circle; the inter-
preter and myself; who were seated at the door,
were asked to partake in our turn, but requested
to keep the head of the calumet within the thres-

«

Lis JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

hold of the sweating-house. When the tobacco
was exhausted by passing several times round,
the hunter made another speech, similar to the
former ; but was, if possible, still more urgent in
his requests. Asecond hymn followed, and a quan-
tity of water being sprinkled on the hot stones,
the attendants were ordered to close the temple,
which they did, by very carefully covering it up
. with moose skins. We had no means of ascer-
taining the temperature of the sweating-house ;
but before it was closed, not only those within,
but also the spectators without, were perspiring
freely. They continued in the vapour bath for
thirty-five minutes, during which time a third
speech was made, and a hymn was sung, and
water occasionally sprinkled on the stones, which
still retained much heat, as was evident from the
hissing noise they made. The coverings were
then thrown off, and the poor half-stewed wor-
shippers exposed freely to the air: but they kept
their squatting postures until a fourth speech was
made, in which the deity was strongly reminded
of the value of the gifts, and exhorted to take al
early opportunity of shewing his gratitude. The
ceremony concluded by the sweaters scampering
down to the river, and plunging into the stream.
it may be remarked, that the door of the temple, —
and, of course, the face of the god, was turned

OF THE POLAR SEA. 119

tothe rising sun; and the spectators were de.

sired not to block up entirely the front of the

building, but to leave a lane for the entrance or

exit of some influence of which they could not

give me a correct description. Several Indians,

who lay on the outside of the sweating-house as

spectators, seemed to regard the proceedings with

very little awe, and were extremely free in the

remarks, and jokes they passed upon the condi-.
tion of the sweaters, and even of Kepoochikawn
himself. One of them made a remark, that the

shawl would have been much better bestowed:
upon himself than upon. Kepoochikawn, but the.
same fellow, afterwards stripped. and ieee in

the ceremony.

I did not learn that the Indians worships any
other god by a specific name. They often refer
however, to the Keetchee-Maneeto, or Great.
Master of Life ; and to an evil spirit, or Maatche-
_ Maneeto. They also speak of Weettako, a.
kind of vampyre or devil, into which those who
have fed on human flesh are transformed.

Whilst at Carlton, I took an opportunity of
asking a communicative old Indian, of the Black-
foot nation, his opinion of a future state ; he re-
plied, that they had heard from their fathers, that
the souls of the departed have to scramble with
great labour up the sides of a steep mountain,

120 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

“upon attaining the summit of which they are re-
warded with the prospect of an extensive plain,
abounding in all sorts of game, and interspersed
here and there with new tents, pitched in agree-
able situations. Whilst they are absorbed in
the‘contemplation of this delightful scene, they
ate descried by the inhabitants of the happy
land, who, clothed in new skin-dresses, approach
and welcome with every demonstration of kind-
ness those Indians who have led good lives ; but
the bad Indians, who have imbrued their hands
in the blood of their countrymen, are told to ree
turn from whence they came, and without more
ceremony precipitated down the steep sides of
the mountain.
~ Women, who have been guilty of infanticide,
never reach the mountain at all, but are com-
pelled to hover round the seats of their crimes,
with branches of trees tied to their legs. The
melancholy sounds, which are heard in the still
summer evenings, and which the ignorance of the
white people considers as the screams of the
goat-sucker, are really, according to my inform-
ant, the moanings of these unhappy beings.
- The Crees have somewhat similar notions, but
as they inhabit a country widely different from
the mountainous lands of the Blackfoot Indians,
the difficulty of their journey lies in walking along

OF THE POLAR SEA. 121

a slender and slippery tree, laid as a bridge
across a rapid stream of stinking and muddy
water. The night owl is regarded by the Crees.
with the same dread that it has been viewed by
other nations. One small species, which is
known to them by its melancholy nocturnal hoot-
ings, (for as it never appears in the day, few even
of the hunters have ever seen it,) is particularly
ominous. They call it the cheepai-peethees, or
death bird, and never fail to whistle when they
hear its note. If it does not reply to the whistle
by its hootings, the speedy death of the i inquirer
is augured.

When a Cree dies, that pakt of his property,
which he has not given away before his death,
is burned with him, and his relations take care
to place near the grave little heaps of fire-wood,
food, pieces of tobacco, and such things as he is
likely to need in his journey. Similar offerings
are made when they revisit the grave, and as
kettles, and other articles of value, are sometimes
offered, they are frequently carried off by pas-
sengers, yet the relations are not displeased, pro-
vided sufficient respect has been shewn to the
dead, by putting some other article, although of
inferior value, in the place of that which has been
taken away.

The Crees are wont to celebrate the returns of

122 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the seasons by religious festivals, but we are un-
able to describe the ceremonial in use on these
joyous occasions from personal observation. The
following brief notice of a feast, which was given
by an old Cree chief, according to his annual
- custom, on the first croaking of the frogs, is drawn
up from the information of one of the guests. A —
large oblong tent, or lodge, was prepared for the
_ important occasion, by the men of the party, none
of the women being suffered to interfere. It
faced the setting sun, and great care was taken
that every thing about it should be as neat and
clean as possible. Three fire-places were raised
within it, at equal distances, and little holes were
dug in the corners to contain the ashes of their
pipes. Ina recess, at its upper end, one large image
of Kepoochikawn, and many smaller ones, were
ranged with their faces towards the door. The.
was prepared by the chief’s wife, and com
sisted of marrow-pemmican, berries boiled with
fat, and various other delicacies that had best
preserved for the occasion.

The preparations being completed, and a » slave,
whom the chief had taken in war, having warned
the guests to the feast by the mysterious word
peenasheway, they came, dressed out in their best
garments, and ranged themselves according t0
their seniority, the elders seating themselves next .

OF THE POLAR SEA. 123

the chief at the upper end, and the young men
near the door.

The chief commenced by addressing his deities
in an appropriate speech, in which he told them,
that he had hastened as soon as summer was in-
dicated by the croaking of the frogs, to solicit their
fayour for himself and his young men, and hoped
that they would send him a pleasant and plentiful
season. His oration was concluded by an invo-
cation to all the animals in the land, and a signal
being given to the slave at the door, he invited
them severally by their names to come ve par-
take of the feast.

The Cree chief having by this very general

invitation displayed his unbounded hospitality, —

next ordered one of the young men to distribute
a mess to each of the guests. This was deme in

new dishes of birch bark, and the utmost diligence ae

was: displayed i in emptying t} yit : er eee

dered extremely improper in a man to ae any
part of that which is placed before him on such
occasions. It is not inconsistent with good man-
ners, however, but rather considered as a piece
of politeness, that a guest who has been too
liberally supplied, should hand the surplus to his
neighbour. When the viands had disappeared,
each filled his calumet and began to smoke with

124 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

great assiduity, and in the course of the evening
several songs were sung to the responsive sounds
of the drum and seeseequay, their usual accom-
paniments.

_ The Cree drum is double-headed, but pos-
sessing very little depth, it strongly resembles a
tambourine in shape. Its want of depth is com-
pensated, however, by its diameter, which fre-
quently exceeds three feet. It is covered with
moose skin parchment, painted with rude figures
of men and beasts, having various fantastic ad-
ditions, and is beat with a stick. The seeseequay
is merely a rattle, formed by enclosing a few
grains of shot in a piece of dried hide. These
two instruments are used in all their religious
ceremonies, except those which take place in a
sweating-house. ci
_ A Cree places great reliance on his drum, and
I cannot adduce a stronger instance than that of
the poor man who is mentioned in a preceding

page, as having lost his only child by famine,
almost within sight of the fort. Notwithstanding
his exhausted state, he travelled with an ele
mous drum tied to his back.

Many of the Crees make vows to abstain from
particular kinds of food, either for a specific time,
or for the remainder of their life, esteeming

OF THE POLAR SEA. 125

abstinence to be a certain means of acquiring
some supernatural powers, or at least of entailing
upon themselves a succession of good fortune.

One of the wives of the Carlton hunter, of
whom we have already spoken as the worship-
per of Kepoochikawn, made a determination not
to eat of the flesh of the Wawaskeesh; or Ameri-
can stag; but during our abode at that place,
she was induced to feed heartily upon it, through
the intentional deceit of her husband, who told
her that it was buffalo meat. When she had -
finished her meal, her husband told her of the
trick, and seemed to enjoy the terror with which
she contemplated the consequences of the invo-
luntary breach of her vow. Vows of this nature
are often made by a Cree before he joins a war
party, and they sometimes, like the eastern
bonzes, walk for a certain number of days on all
fours, or impose upon themselves some other
penance, equally ridiculous. By such means the
Cree warrior becomes godlike; but unless he kills
an enemy before his return, his newly-acquired
powers are estimated to be productive in future
of some direful consequence to himself.

As we did not witness any of the Cree dances
ourselves, we shall merely mention, that like the
other North American nations, they are accus-
tomed to practise that amusement on meeting with

126 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Strange tribes, before going to war, and on other
solemn occasions.

The habitual intoxication of the Cumberland
House Crees has induced such a disregard of per-
sonal appearance, that they are squalid and dirty
in the extreme; hence a minute description of
their clothing would be by no means interesting.
We shall, therefore, only remark in a general
manner that the dress of the males consists of a
blanket thrown over the shoulders, a leathern shirt
or jacket, and a piece of cloth tied round the mid-
dle. ‘The women have in addition a long petti-
coat; and both sexes wear a kind of wide hose,
which teaching from the ankle to the middle of the
thigh, are ‘suspended by strings to the girdle.
These hose, or as they are termed, Indian stock-
tags, are commonly ornamented with beads
ribands, and from their convenience, have been
universally adopted by the white residents, as an
essential part of their winter clothing. ‘Theit
shoes, or rather short boots, for they tie round the
ankle, are made of soft dressed moose skins, and
during the winter they wrap several pieces of
blanket round their feet. ae

They are fond of European articles of dress,
considering it as mean to be dressed entirely in
leather, and the hunters are generally furnished
annually with a capot or great coat, and the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 127

women with shawls, printed calicoes, and other
things very unsuitable to their mode of life, ‘but
which they wear in imitation 6f the wives of the
traders ; all these articles, however showy they
may be at first, are soon reduced to a very filthy
condition by the Indian custom of greasing the
face and hair with soft fat or marrow, instead of
washing them with water. This practice they
say preserves the skin soft, and protects it from
cold in the winter, and the moschetoes in summer,
but it renders their presence disagreeable to the
olfactory organs of an European, particularly when
they are seated in a close tent and near a ‘hot
fire. pS BERD
The only peculiarity which we observed, in
their mode of rearing children consists in the use
of a sort of cradle, extremely well adapted to
their mode of life. The infant is placed in the
bag having its lower extremities wrapt up in soft
sphagnum or bog- , and may be hung up in
the tent, or to the branch of a tree, without the
least danger of tumbling out; or in a journey
suspended on the mother’s back, by a band which
crosses the forehead, so as to leave her hands
perfectly free. It is one of the neatest articles
of furniture they possess. being generally orna-
mented with beads, and bits of scarlet cloth, but

128 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

it bears a very strong resemblance in its form to
a mummy case.

‘The sphagnum in which the child is laid, forms
a soft elastic bed, which absorbs moisture very
readily, and affords such a protection from the
cold of a rigorous winter, that its place would he
ill supplied by cloth.

The mothers are careful to collect a sufficient
quantity in autumn for winter use; but when
through accident their stock fails, they have re-
course to the soft down of the typha, or reed mace,
the dust of rotten wood, or even feathers, although

_ none of these articles are so cleanly, or so ee
changed as the sphagnum.

The above is a brief sketch of such parts of the
manners, character, and customs of the Crees, as
we could collect from personal observation, or from
the information of the most intelligent half-breeds
we met with; and we shall merely add a few re-
marks on the’ manner in which the trade is col-
ducted at the different inland posts of the Fur
Companies.

The standard of exchange in all mercantile
transactions with the natives is a beaver skin, the
relative value of which, as originally established
by the traders, differs considerably from the pre-
sent worth of the articles it represents; but the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 129

Indians are averse to change. Three marten,
eight musk-rat, or a single lynx, or wolverene
skin, are equivalent to one beaver; a silver fox,
white fox, or otter, are reckoned two beavers, and
a black fox, or large black bear, are equal to four:
amode of reckoning which has very little con-
nexion with the real value of these different furs
in the European market. Neither has any at-
tention been paid to the original cost of European
articles, in fixing the tariff by which they are sold
to the Indians. A coarse butcher’s knife is one
skin, a woollen blanket or a fathom of coarse cloth,
eight, and a fowling-piece fifteen. The Indians
receive their principal outfit of clothing and am-
munition on credit in the autumn, to be repaid by
their winter hunts; the amount intrusted to each
of the hunters, varying with their reputations for
industry and skill, from twenty to one hundred and
fifty skins. The Indians are generally anxious
to pay off the debt thus incurred, but their good
intentions are often frustrated by the arts of the
rival traders. Each of the Companies keeps men
constantly employed travelling over the country
during the winter, to collect the furs from the dif. .
ferent bands of hunters as fast as they are pro-
_ cured, The poor Indian endeavours to behave
honestly, and when he has gathered a few skins
sends notice to the post from whence he procured
a

Vor. I.

aad |

130 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

his supplies, but if discovered in the mean time
by the opposite party, he is seldom proof against
the temptation to which he is exposed. However
firm he may be in his denials at first, his resolu-
tions are enfeebled by the sight of a little rum,
and when he has tasted the intoxicating beverage,
they vanish like smoke, and he brings forth his
store of furs, which he has carefully concealed’
from the scrutinizing eyes of his visitors. This
mode of carrying on the trade not only causes the
amount of furs, collected by either of the two
Companies, to depend more upon the activity of
their agents, the knowledge they possess of the
motions of the Indians, and the quantity of rum
they carry, than upon the hberality of the credits
they give, but is also productive of an increasing _
deterioration of the character of the Indians, and
will probably, ultimately proye destructive to the
fur trade itself. Indeed the evil has already, in
part, recoiled upon the traders ; for the Indians,
long deceived, have become deceivers in their
turn, and not unfrequently after having incurred 4
heavy debt at one post, move off to another, to
play the same game. In some cases the rival
posts have entered into a mutual agreement, to
trade only with the Indians they have respectively —
fitted out ; but such treaties, being seldom rigidly
res’ to, prove afertile subject for disputes, and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 131

the differences have been’ more than once decided
by force of arms. To carry on the contest, the
two Companies are obliged to employ a greatmany
Servants, whom they maintain often with much
difficulty, and always ata considerable expense.

There are thirty men belonging to the Hud-
son’s Bay Fort at Cumberland, and nearly as
many women and children.

The inhabitants of the North West Company’s
house are still more numerous. These large
families are fed during the greatest part of the
year on fish, which are principally procured: at
Beaver Lake, about fifty miles distant. The
fishery commencing with the first frosts in autumn,
continues abundant; till January, and the produce
is dragged over the snow on sledges, each drawn
by three dogs, and carrying about two hundred
and fifty pounds. The journey to and from the
lake occupies five days, and every sledge requires
a driver. About three thousand fish; averaging
three pounds a piece, were caught by the Hudson’s
Bay fishermen last season; in addition to which
a few sturgeon were occasionally caught in Pine
Island Lake; and towards the spring a consider-
able quantity of moose meat was procured from

the Basquiau Hill, sixty or seventy miles distant.
The rest of our winter's —— —"

Jevive

ie or i tras cart ©

and the two ar pages, are now, in yall rea, at an-end,

132 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

geese, salted in the autumn, and of dried meats
and pemmican, obtained from the provision posts
on the plains of the Saskatchawan. A good many
potatoes are also raised at this post, and a small
supply of tea and sugar is brought from the depét
at York Factory. The provisions obtained from
these various sources were amply sufficient in the
winter of 1819-20; but through improvidence this
post has in former seasons been reduced to great

Many of the labourers, and a great majority of
the agents and clerks employed by the two Com-
panies, have Indian or half-breed wives, and the
mixed offspring thus produced has become ex-
tremely numerous,

These métifs, or as the Canadians term them,
bois-brulés, are upon the whole a good looking
people, and where the experiment has been made,
have shewn much aptness in learning, and will
ingness to be taught; they have, however, beet!
sadly neglected. The example of their fathers
has released them from the restraint imposed by
the Indian opinions of good and bad behaviour;
and generally speaking, no pains have been takem
to fill the void with better principles. Hence itis
hot surprising that the males, trained up ina high
Opinion of the authority and rights of the Com-
pany to which their fathers belonged, and un
acquainted with the laws of the civilized world,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 133

should be ready to engage in any measure what-
ever, that they are prompted to believe will forward
the interests of the cause they espouse. Nor that
the girls, taught a certain degree of refinement by
the acquisition of an European language, should
be inflamed by the unrestrained discourse of their
Indian relations, and very early give up all pre-
tensions to chastity. It is, however, but justice
to remark, that there is a very decided difference
in the conduct of the children of the Orkney men
employed by the Hudson’s Bay Company and
those of the Canadian voyagers. Some trouble
is occasionally bestowed in teaching the former,
and it is not thrown away; but all the good that
can be said of the latter is, that they are not quite
so licentious as their fathers are.

~ Many of the half-breeds, both male and female,
are baoagnt up amongst, and intermarry with, the
Indians ; and there are few tents wherein the
paler children of such marriages are not to be
seen. It has been remarked, I do not know with
what truth, that half-breeds shew more personal
courage than the pure Crees *

¢ A singular change takes place in the physical constitution of

Indian females who become inmates of a fort ; namely, they bear

children more frequently and longer, but, at the same time, are ren-

dered liable to indurations of the mamme and prolapsus of the

uterus ; evils from which they are, in a great measure, exempt
‘they lead a wandering and laborious life.

“ae
any

134 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The girls at the forts, particularly the daughters
of Canadians, are given in marriage very young;
they are very frequently wives at twelve years of
‘age, and mothers at fourteen. Nay, more than
one instance came under our observation, of the
master of a post having permitted a voyager to
take to wife a poor child that had scarcely attain-
ed the age of ten years. The masters of posts

and wintering partners of the Companies deemed
this criminal indulgence to the vices of their set-
vants, necessary to stimulate them to exertion for
the interest of their respective concems, Another
practice may also be noticed, as shewing the state
of moral feeling on these subjects amongst the
white residents of the fur countries. It was not
very uncommon, amongst the Canadian yoyagels, —
for one woman to be common to, and maintained
at the joint expense of, two men ; nor for a voy
ager to sell his wife, either for a season or alte
gether, for a sum of money, proportioned. to het
beauty and good qualities, but always inferior 19
the price of a team of dogs, Fd

The country around Cumberland House is flat
and swampy, and is much intersected by small :
lakes. Limestone is found every where under@
thin stratum of soil, and it not unfrequently. shows
itself above the surface. It lies in strata generally
horizontal, but in one spot near the fort, dippilé

OF THE POLAR SEA. 135

to the northward at an angle of 40°. Some por-
tions of this rock contain very perfect shells.
With respect to the vegetable productions of the
district the populus trepida, or aspen, which thrives
in moist situations, is perhaps the most abundant
tree on the banks of the Saskatchawan, and is
much prized as fire-wood, burning well when cut
green. The populus bulsamifera, or taccamahac,
called by the Crees matheh meteos, or ugly poplar,
in allusion to its rough bark and naked stem,
crowned, in an aged state, with .a few distorted
branches, is scarcely less plentiful. It is an in-
ferior fire-wood, and does not burn well, unless’
when cut in the spring, and dried during the sum-
mer; but it affords a great quantity of potash.
A decoction of its resinous buds has been some-
times used by the Indians with success in cases of
snow-blindness, but its application to the inflamed
eye produces much pain. Of pines, the white
spruce is the most common here; the red and
black spruce, the balsam of Gilead fir, and Bank-
sian pine, also occur frequently. The larch is
found only in swampy spots, and is stunted and
unhealthy. The canoe birch attains a consider-
“able size in this latitude, but from the great de-
‘mand for its wood to make sledges, it has become
rare. The alder abounds on the margin of the
little grassy lakes, so common in the neighbour-

136 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

hood.. A decoction of its inner bark is used as
an emetic by the Indians, who also extract from
it a yellow dye. A great variety of willows occur
on the banks of the streams; and the hazel is met
with sparingly in the woods. The sugar maple,
elm, ash, and the arbor vite *, termed by the Ca-
nadian voyagers cedar, grow on various parts of
the Saskatchawan ; but that river seems to form
their northem boundary. Two kinds of prunus
also grow here, one of whicht, a handsome small
tree, produces a black fruit, having a very astrin-
gent taste, whence the term choke-cherry applied
to it. The Crees call it tawquoy-meena, and
esteem it to be when dried and bruised, a good
addition to pemmican. The other species t is a
less elegant shrub, but is said to bear a bright
red cherry, of a pleasant sweet taste. Its Cree
name 1s passée-awey-meenan, and it is known to
occur as far north as Great Slave Lake.

The most esteemed fruit of the country, however,
is the produce .of the aFonia ovalis. Under the
hame of meesasscootoomeena it is a favourite dish
at most of the Indian feasts, and mixed with pem-
mican, it renders that greasy food actually palat-
able. A great variety of currants and gooseberries-
are also mentioned by the natives, under the name

m
eas

* Pranus Virginiana.
<= ©" $ Prunus Pensylvanica,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 137

of sappoom-meena, but we only found three species
in the neighbourhood of Cumberland House. The
strawberry, called by the Crees otet-meena, or
heart-berry, is found in abundance, and ragps are
common on the sandy banks of the rivers. The
fruits hitherto mentioned fall in the autumn, but
the following berries remained hanging on the
bushes in the spring, and are considered as much
mellowed by exposure to the colds in winter.
The red whortleberry (vaccinium vitis idea) is
found every where, but is most abundant in rocky
places. It is aptly termed by the Crees weesaw-
gum-meena, sour-berry. The common cranberry
(oxycoccos palustris,) is distinguished from the
preceding by its growing on moist sphagnous
Spots, and is hence called maskego-meena, swamp-
berry. The American pholden! rose, whose fruit
strongly resembles the cranberry, is also com-
mon. There are two kinds of it, (vidurnum
oxycoccos, and edule, ) one termed by the natives
peepoon-meena, winter-berry, and the other mong-
soa-meena, moose-berry. There is also a berry of
a bluish white colour, the produce of the white
cornel tree, which is named musqua-meena, bear-
berry, because these animals are said to fatten on
it. The dwarf Canadian cornel, bears a corymb of
red berries, which are highly ornamental to the
woods throughout the country, but are not other-

138 : JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

wise worthy of notice, for they have an insipid
farinaceous taste, and are seldom gathered.

The Crees extract some beautiful colours from
several of their native vegetables. They dye
their porcupine quills a beautiful scarlet, with the
roots of two species of bed-straw, (galium tinc-
torium, and boreale) which they indiscriminately
term sawoyan. The roots, after being carefully
washed, are boiled gently in a clean copper kettle,
and a quantity of the juice of the moose-berry,
strawberry,cranberry, orarcticraspberry, is added
together with a few red tufts of pistils of the larch.
The porcupine quills are plunged into the liquor
before it becomes quite cold, and are soon tinged

-of a beautiful scarlet. The process sometimes
fails, and produces only a dirty brown, a circum
stance which ought probably to be ascribed to the
use of an undue quantity of acid. They dye black
with an ink made of elder bark, and a little bog- -
iron-ore, dried and pounded, and they have vati-
ous modes of producing yellow. The deepest
colour is obtained from the dried root of a plant,
Which from their description appears to be the
cow-bane (cicuta virosa.) An inferior colour is
obtained from the bruised buds of the Dutch
myrtle, and they have discovered methods of dye
ing with various lichens.
~The quadrupeds that are hunted for food it

OF THE POLAR SEA. i
this part of the country, are the moose and the
rein-deer, the former termed by the Crees, mong.
soa, Or moosoa, the latter attekh. The buffalo or
bison, (moostoosh, ) the red-deer or American-stag,
(wawaskeeshoo, ) the apeesee-mongsoos, or jumping
deer, the dinwatthoos, or long-tailed deer, and the
apistatchekoos, a species of antelope, animals
that frequent the plains above the forks of the
Saskatchawan, are not found in the neighbour- |
hood of Cumberland House.

Of fur-bearing animals, various kinds of foxes
(makkeeshewuc,) are found in the district, distin-
guished by the traders under the names of d/ack-,
silver, cross, red, and blue foxes. The two former
are considered by the Indians to be the same kind,
varying accidentally in the colour of the pelt.
The black foxes are very rare, and fetch a high
price. Thecross and red foxes differ from each
other only in colour, being of the same shape and
size. ‘Their shades of colour are not disposed in
any determinate manner, some individuals ap-
proaching in that respect very nearly to the silver
fox, others exhibiting every link of the chain
down to a nearly uniform deep or orange-yellow,
the distinguishing colour of a pure red fox. It is
reported both by Indians and traders, that all the
varieties have been found in the same litter. The
blue fox is seldom seen here, and is supposed’ to

440 “JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

come from the southward. The gray wolf (ma-
_ haygan,) is common here. In the month of
March the females frequently entice the domestic
dog from the forts, although at other seasons a
strong antipathy seemed fo subsist between
them. Some black wolves are occasionally seen.
The black and red varieties of the American bear
(musquah) are also found near Cumberland
House, though not frequently ; a black bear often
has red cubs, and vice versd. The grizzly bear,
so much dreaded by the Indians for its strength
and ferocity, inhabits a track of country nearer
the Rocky Mountains. It is extraordinary that
although I made inquiries extensively amongst
the Indians, I met with but one who said that he
had killed a she-bear with young in the womb.

' The wolverene, in Cree okeekoohawgees, OF
ommeethatsees, is an animal of great strength
and cunning, and is much hated by the hunters,
on account of the mischief it does to their marten-
traps. The Canadian lynx (peeshew) is a timid
but well-armed animal, which preys upon the
American hare. Its fur is esteemed. The marten

(wapeestan,) is one of the most common furred
animals in the country. The fisher, notwith-

standing its name, is an inhabitant of the land,
living like the common. marten principally on
mice, It is the otchak of the Crees, and the pekamt

OF. THE POLAR SEA. 141

of the Canadians. The mink, (atjackash,) has
been often confounded by writers with the fisher.
It is a much smaller animal, inhabits the banks
of rivers, and swims well; its prey is fish. The
otter, (neekeek,) is larger than the English species,
and produces a much more valuable fur.

The musk rat (watsuss, or musquash,) is very
abundant in all the small grassy lakes. They
build small conical houses with a mixture of hay
and earth; those which build early raising their
houses on the mud of the marshes, and those
which build later in the season founding their
habitations upon the surface of the ice itself.
The house'covers a hole in the ice, which permits
them to go into the water in search of the roots
on which they feed. In severe winters when the
small lakes are frozen to the bottom, and these
animals cannot procure their usual food, they:
prey upon each other. In this way great num-
bers are destroyed. i

The beaver (ammisk) furnishes the staple fur’
of the country. Many surprising stories have
been told of the sagacity with which this animal
suits the form of its habitation, retreats, and dam,
to local circumstances; and I compared the ac-
count of its manners, given by Cuvier, in his
Régne Animal, with the reports of the Indians,
and ‘found them to agree exactly. They have

142 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

been often seen in the act of constructing their
_ houses in the moon-light nights, and the ob-
servers agree, that the stones, wood, or other
materials, are carried in their teeth, and generally
leaning against the shoulder. When they have
placed it to their mind, they turn round and give
it a smart blow with their flat tail. In the act of
diving they give a similar stroke to the surface
of the water. They keep their provision of wood
under water in front of the house. Their fa-
vourite food is the bark of the aspen, birch, and
willow ; they also eat the alder, but seldom touch
any of the pine tribe unless from necessity; they
are fond of the large roots of the nuphar lutea, and
grow fat upon it, but it gives their flesh a strong
rancid taste. In. the season of love their call
resembles a groan, that of the male being the
hoarsest, but the voice of the young is exactly
like the ery of a child. They are very playful,
as the following anecdote will shew:—One day
a gentleman, long resident in this country, espied
five young, beavers sporting in the water, leaping
upon. the trunk of a tree, pushing one another
off, and playing a thousand interesting tricks. —
He approached softly, under cover of the bushes,

and prepared to fire on the unsuspecting crea
tures, but. a nearer approach discovered to him

such a similitude betwixt their gestures and the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 143

infantile caresses of his own children, that he
threw aside his gun. This gentleman’s feelings
are to be envied, but few traders in fur would
have acted sofeelingly. The musk rat frequently
inhabits the same lodge with the beaver, and the
otter also thrusts himself in occasionally: the
latter, however, is not always a civil guest, as he
sometimes devours his host.

These are the animals. most interesting in an
economical point of view. The American hare,
and several kinds of grouse and ptarmigan, also
contribute towards the support of the natives;
and the geese, in their periodical flights in the
spring and autumn, likewise prove a valuable. re-
Source both to, the Indians. and white residents;
but the principal article of food, after the moose-
deer, is fish; indeed, it forms almost the sole.
Support of the traders. at some of the posts. The
most esteemed fish is the Coregonus: albus, the
attihhawmeg of the Crees, and, the white-fish of
the Americans. Its. usual weight is: between
three and four pounds, but it has been known to
reach, sixteen or, eighteen pounds, Three fish of
the ordinary size is the daily allowance to each
man at the fort, and is considered as equivalent
to, two geese, or eight pounds of} solid moose-
meat, The fishery for the attihhawmeg lasts the
whole year, but is most productive in the spawn-

144 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ing season, from the middle of September to the
middle of October. The ottonneebees, (Coregonus
Artedi,) closely resembles the last: Three species
of carp, (Catastomus Hudsonius, C. Forsteri-
anus, and C. Lesueurii,) are also found abun-
dantly in all the lakes, their Cree names are
namaypeeth, meethquawmaypeeth, and wapawhaw-
keeshew. The occow, or river perch, termed also
horn-fish, piccarel, or dor’, is common, but is not
so much esteemed as the attihhawmeg. It attains
the length of twenty inches in these lakes, The
methy is another common fish: it is the gadus
lota, or burbot, of Europe. Its length is about
two feet, its gullet is capacious, and it preys
upon fish large enough to distend its body to
nearly twice its proper size. It is never eaten,
not even by the dogs unless through necessity,
but its liver and roe are considered as delicacies.
The pike is also plentiful, and being readily
caught in the winter time with the hook, is s0
much prized on that account by the natives, a8
to receive from them the name of eithinyoo-can-
noosheoo, or Indian fish. The common trout, of
nammecous, grows here to an enormous Size;
being caught in’ particular lakes, weighing up-
wards of sixty pounds ; thirty pounds is no
uncommon size at Beaver Lake, from whence
Cumberland House is supplied. The Hioden

OF THE POLAR SEA. 145

clodalis, oweepeetcheesces, or gold-eye, is a beau-
tiful small fish, which resembles the trout in its
habits,

One of the largest fish is the mathemegh, cat-
fish, or darbue. It belongs to the genus si/urus.
It is rare, but is highly prized as food.

The sturgeon (Accipenser ruthenus) is also
taken in the Saskatchawan, and lakes communi-
cating with it, and furnishes an excellent, but
rather rich, article of food.

Vou, I. i

145 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Cumberland House—Mode of Travelling in Winter—Arrival
at Carlton House—Stone Indians—Visit to a Buffalo Pound—

~ Goitres—Departure from Carlton House—Isle A la Crosse—
Arrival at Fort Chipewyan, PO) fi

is90, THis day we set out from Cumberland
January 18. House for Carlton House: but previously
to detailing the events of the journey, it may be
proper to describe the necessary equipments of a
winter traveller in this region, which I cannot do
better than by extracting the following brief,
but accurate, account of it from Mr. Hood’s
journal :—

“A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of
wood, fastened together at their extremities, and
Projected into curves by transverse bars, The
side bars have been so shaped by a frame, and
dried before a fire, that the front part of the shoe
turns up, like the prow of a boat, and the part
behind terminates in an acute angle; the spaces
between the bars are filled up with a fine netting
of leathern thongs, except that part behind the

a

OF THE POLAR SEA. 147

main bar, which is occupied by the feet; the
netting is there close and strong, and the foot is
attached to the main bar by straps passing round
the heel, but only fixing the toes, so that the hee]
rises after each step, and the tail of the shoe is
dragged on the snow. Between the main bar
and another in front of it, a small space is left,
permitting the toes to descend a little in the act
of raising the heel to make the step forward,
which prevents their extremities from chafing.
The length of a show-shoe is from four to six
feet, and the breadth one foot and a half, or one
foot and three quarters, being adapted to the size
of the wearer. The motion of walking im them
is perfectly natural, for one shoe is level with the
snow, when the edge of the other is passing over
it. It is not easy to use them among bushes,
without frequent overthrows, nor to rise after-
wards without help. Each shoe weighs about
two pounds when unclogged with snow. The
northern Indian snow shoes differ a little from
those of the southern Indians, having a greater
curvature on the outside of each shoe; one ad-
vantage of which is, that when the foot rises the
over-balanced side descends and throws off the
snow. All the superiority of European art has
been unable to improve the native contrivance of
this useful machine.
L2

148 JOURNEY T0 THE SHORES

‘* Sledges are made of two or three flat boards,
curving upwards in front, and fastened together
by transverse pieces of wood above. They are
so thin that, if heavily laden, they bend with the
inequalities of the surface over which they pass.
The ordinary dog-sledges are eight or ten feet
long, and very narrow, but the lading is secured
to a lacing round the edges. The cariole used
by the traders is merely a covering of leather for
the lower part of the body, affixed to the common
sledge, which is painted and ornamented accord’
ing to the taste of the proprietor. Besides snow
shoes, each individual carries his blanket, hatchet,
steel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire-arms.” -

The general dress of the winter traveller is a
capot, having a hood to put up under the fur cap
in windy weather, or in the woods, to keep the
snow from his neck; leathern trowsers and Indian
stockings, which are closed at the ankles, round
the upper part of his mocassins, or Indian shoes,
to prevent the snow from getting into them.
Over these he wears a blanket, or leathern coat,
which is secured by a belt round his waist, to
which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are sus-
pended.

Mr. Back and I were accompanied by the sea
man, John Hepburn; we were provided with two

carioles and two sledges: and their drivers and —

OF THE POLAR SEA. 149

dogs were furnished in equal proportions by the
two Companies. Fifteen days’ provision so com-
pletely filled the sledges, that it was with diffi-
culty we found room for a small sextant, one suit
of clothes, and three changes of linen, together
with our bedding. Notwithstanding we thus
restricted ourselves, and even loaded the carioles
with part of the luggage, instead of embarking in
them ourselves, we did not set out without con-
siderable grumbling from the voyagers of both
Companies, respecting the overlading of their
dogs. However, we left the matter to be settled
by our friends at the fort; who were more con-
versant with winter travelling than ourselves.
Indeed, the loads appeared to us so great that we
Should have been inclined to listen to the com-
plaints of the drivers. The weight usually placed
upon a sledge, drawn by three dogs, cannot, at
the commencement of a journey, be estimated at
less than three hundred pounds, which, however,
suffers a daily diminution from the consumption
of provisions. The sledge itself weighs about
thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen,
or the track well trodden, the rate of travelling is
about two miles and a half an hour including
Tests, or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow
is loose, the speed is necessarily much less and
the fatigue greater.

150 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted
the fort, and took leave of our hospitable friend,
Governor Williams, whose kindness and atten-
tion I shall ever remember with gratitude. Dr.
Richardson, Mr. Hood, and Mr. Connolly, accom-
panied us along the Saskatchawan until the snow
became too deep for their walking without snow-
shoes. We then parted from our associates, with
sincere regret at the prospect of a long sepata-
tion. Being accompanied by Mr. Mackenzie, of
the Hudson’s Bay Company, who was going to
Isle 4 la Crosse, with four sledges under his
charge, we formed quite a procession, keeping in
an Indian file, in the track of the man who pre"
ceded the foremost dogs; but, as the snow was
deep, we proceeded slowly on the surface of the
river, which is about three hundred and fifty
yards wide, for the distance of six miles, which
we went to-day. Its alluvial banks and islands
are clothed with willows. At the place of out
encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine
branches to floor “ the hut,” as the Orkney men
term the place where travellers rest. Its prepa
ration, however, consists only in clearing away
the snow to the ground, and covering that space
with pine branches, over which the party spread.
their blankets and coats, and sleep in warmth
and comfort, by keeping a good fire at their feel

OF THE POLAR SEA. 151

without any other canopy than the heaven, even
though the thermometer should be far below zero.

The arrival at the place of encampment gives
immediate occupation to every one of the party ;
and it is not until the sleeping-place has been
arranged, and a sufficiency of wood collected as
fuel for the night, that the fire is allowed to be
kindled. The dogs alone remain inactive during
this busy scene, being kept harnessed to their
burdens until the men have leisure to unstow the
sledges, and hang upon the trees every species
of provision out of the reach of these rapacious
animals. We had ample experience, before morn-
ing, of the necessity of this precaution, as they
contrived to steal a considerable part of our stores,
almost from underneath Hepburn’s head, notwith-
standing their having been well fed at supper.

This evening we found the mercury of our ther-
mometer had sunk into the bulb, and was frozen.
It arose again into the tubé on being held to the
fire, but quickly re-descended into the bulb on
being removed into the air; we could not, there-
fore, ascertain by it the temperature of the at-
mosphere, either then or during our journey. The
weather was perfectly clear.

January 19.—We arose this morning after the
enjoyment of a sound and comfortable repose,
and recommenced our journey at sun-rise, but

152 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

made slow progress through the deep snow. The
task of beating the track for the dogs was so
very fatiguing, that each of the men took the lead
in turn, for an hour and a half. The scenery of
the banks of the river improved as we advanced
to-day ; some firs and poplars were intermixed
with the willows. We passed through two creeks,
formed by islands, and encamped on a pleasant
spot on the north shore, having only made six
miles and three quarters actual distance.

The next day we pursued our course along the
river ; the dogs had the greatest difficulty in
dragging their heavy burdens through the snow.
We halted to refresh them at the foot of. Stur-
geon River, and obtained the latitude 53° 51’ 41’
N, This is a small stream, which issues from a
neighbouring lake. We encamped near to Mus-
quito Point, having walked about nine miles.
The termination of the day’s journey was a great
relief to me, who had been suffering during the
greater part of it, in consequence of my feet hav-
ing been galled by the snow-shoes ; this, how-
ever, is an evil which few escape on their initia-
tion to winter travelling. It excites no pity from
the more experienced companions of the journey,
who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of
the pain of the sufferer. |
_ Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us

OF THE POLAR SEA. 153

from Cumberland House, and brought some pem-
mican which we had left behind ; a supply which
was very seasonable after our recent loss. The
general occupation of Mr. Isbester during the
winter, is to follow or find out the Indians, and
collect their furs, and: his present journey will ap-
pear adventurous to persons accustomed to the
certainty of travelling on a well-known road. He
was going in search of a band of Indians, of whom
no information had been received since last Oc-
tober, and his only guide for finding them was
their promise to hunt i ina stontinin quarter ; but he
looked atthe jaunt with

on meeting them in six or seven days, for which
time only he had provision, Few persons in this
country suffer more from want of food than those
occasionally do who are employed on this service.
They are furnished with a sufficiency of provision
to serve until they reach the part where the In- —
dians are expected to be; but it frequently oc-
curs that, on their arrival at the spot, they have
gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of snow has
_ hidden their track, in which case the voyagers have
to wander about in search of them ; and it often
happens, when they succeed in finding the In-
dians, that they are unprovided with meat. Mr.
Isbester had been placed in this distressing situa-
tion only a few weeks ago, and passed four days

154 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

without either himself or his dogs tasting food.
At length, when he had determined on killing one
of the dogs to satisfy his hunger, he happily met
with a beaten track, which led him to some Indian
lodges, where he obtained a supply of food.

~ The morning of the 21st was cold, but pleasant
for travelling. We left Mr. Isbester and his com-
panion, and crossed the peninsula of Musquito
Point, to avoid a detour of several miles which
the river makes. Though we put up at an early
hour, we gained eleven miles this day. Our en-
campment was at the lower extremity of Tobin's.
Falls. The snow being less deep on the rough
ice which enclosed this rapid, we proceeded, on
the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual, though at
the expense of great suffering to Mr. Back, my-
self, and Hepburn, all our feet being much galled.
After passing Tobin’s Falls, the river expands to
the breadth of five hundred yards, and its banks
are well wooded with pines, poplars, birch, and
willows. Many tracks of moose-deer and wolves
were observed near the encampment. :

~ On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and ~
there were several snow showers. We saw two
wolves and some foxes cross the river in the
course of the day, and passed many tracks of the
moose and red-deer. Soon after we had encamp-
ed the snow fell heavily, which was an advan-

OF THE POLAR SEA. _ is

tage to us after we had retired to rest, by its
affording an additional covering to our blankets.
The next morning, whilst at breakfast, two men
arrived from Carlton on their way to Cumber-
land. Having the benefit of their track, we were,
to our great joy, able to get on at a quick pace
without snow shoes. My only regret was, that
the party proceeded too fast to allow of Mr. Back’s
halting occasionally, to note the bearings of the
points, and delineate the course of the river*,
without being left behind. As the provisions
were getting short, I could not, therefore, with
propriety, check the progress by interrupting the
party ; and, indeed, it appeared to me less ne-
cessary, as I understood the river had been care-
fully surveyed. In the afternoon, we had to re-
sume the incumbrance of the snow-shoes, and to
pass over a rugged part where the ice had been
piled over a collection of stones. The tracks of
animals were very abundant on the river, parti-
cularly near the remains of an old establishment,
called the Lower Nippéween.

So much snow had fallen on the night of the
24th, that the track we intended to follow was
completely covered, and our march to-day was
very fatiguing. We passed the remains of two

This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage
to Carlton in the spring.

156 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

red-deer, lying at the basis of perpendicular cliffs,
from the summits of which they had, probably, —
been forced by the wolves. These voracious
animals, who are inferior in speed to the moose
or red-deer, are said frequently to have recourse
to this expedient in placés where extensive plains
are bounded by precipitous cliffs. Whilst the
deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in
great numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep.
slowly towards the herd so as not to alarm them
much at first, but when they perceive that they
have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting crea-
tures, and cut off their retreat across the plain,
they move more quickly, and with hideous yells
terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the
only open way, which is that towards the preci-
pice ; appearing to know, that when the herd is
once at full speed, it is easily driven over the
cliff, the rearmost urging on those that are before.
The wolves then descend at their leisure, and
feast on the mangled carcasses. One of these
ferocious animals passed close to the person who
was beating the track, but did not offer any vio-
lence, We encamped at sunset, after walking
thirteen miles. ;

On the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the
half-way point, between Cumberland and Carl
ton. The scenery of the river was less agreeable

OF THE POLAR SEA. {57

beyond this point, as there was a scarcity of
wood. One of our men was despatched after a
red-deer that appeared on the bank. He con-
trived to approach near enough to fire twice,
though without success, before the animal moved
away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen
miles, we put up at the upper Nippéween, a de-
serted establishment ; and performed the com-
fortable operations of shaving and washing for
the first time since our departure from Cumber-
land, the weather having been hitherto too
Severe. We passed an uncomfortable and sleep-
less night, and agreed next morning to encamp
in future, in the open air, as preferable to the
imperfect shelter of a deserted house without
doors or windows.

The morning was extremely cold, but fortu-
nately the wind was light, which prevented our
feeling it severely ; experience indeed had taught
us that the sensation of cold depends less upon
the state of temperature, than the force of the
wind. An attempt was made to obtain the lati-
tude, which failed, in consequence of the screw,
that adjusts the telescope of the sextant, being
immoveably fixed, from the moisture upon it
having frozen. The instrument could not be
replaced in its case before the ice was thawed
by the fire in the evening.

158 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

In the course of the day we passed the conflu-
ence of the south branch of the Saskatchawan,
which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the
sources of the northern branch of the Missouri.
At Coles Falls, which commence a short distance
from the branch, we found the surface of the ice
yery uneven, and many spots of open water.

We passed the ruins of an establishment,
which the traders had been compelled to aban-
don, in consequence of the intractable conduct
and pilfering habits of the Assinéboine or Stone
Indians; and we learned that all the residents ata
post on the south branch, had been cut off by the
same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve
miles to-day. The wolves serenaded us through
the night with a chorus of their agreeable howl- _
ing, but none of them ventured near the encamp-
ment. Mr. Back’s repose was disturbed by a
more serious evil: his buffalo robe caught fire,
and the shoes on his feet, being contracted by the
heat, gave him such pain, that he jumped up in
the cold, and ran into the snow as the only means
of obtaining relief,

On the 28th we had a strong and. piercing
wind from N.W. in our faces, and much snow-
drift; we were compelled to walk as quick as we
could, and to keep constantly rubbing the ex-
posed parts of the skin, to prevent their being

OF THE POLAR SEA. 159

frozen, but some of the party suffered in spite of
every precaution. We descried three red-deer
on the banks of the river, and were about to send
the best marksmen after them, when they espied
the party, and ran away. A supply of meat
would have been very seasonable, as the men’s
provision had become scanty, and the dogs were
without food, except a little burnt leather. Owing
to the scarcity of wood, we had to walk until a
late hour, before a good spot for an encampment
could be found, and had then come only eleven
miles. The night was miserably cold ; our tea
froze in the tin pots before we coulddrink it, and
even a mixture of spirits and water became
quite thick by congelation; yet, after we lay
_ down to rest, we felt no inconvenience, and
heeded not the wolves, though they were howl-
ing within view.
The 29th was also very cold, until

burst forth, when the travelling became

The banks of the river are very scantily supplied
with wood through the part we passed to-day.
A long track on the south shore, called Holms
Plains, is destitute of any thing like a tree, and
the opposite bank has only stunted’ willows ; but,
after walking sixteen miles, we came to a spot
better wooded, and encamped opposite to a re-

160 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

markable ens called by the ee * The
Neck of Land.

A short distance below our Auiesinpaicdll on
the peninsula formed by the confluence of the
Net-setting river with the Saskatchawan, there
stands a representation of Kepoochikawn, which
was formerly held in high veneration by the In-
dians, and is still looked upon with some respect.
It is merely a large willow bush, having its tops
bound into a bunch. Many offerings of value
such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and kettles,

.
used to be made to it, but of late its votaries have —

been less liberal. It was mentioned to us as @

moose-deer having ventured to crop a few of its

tender twigs was found dead at the distance of a . _

few yards. The bush having now grown old
and stunted is exempted from similar violations.

- On the thirtieth we directed our course round
The Neck of Land, which is well clothed with
Pines and firs; though the opposite or western
bank is nearly destitute of wood. This contrast
between the two banks continued until we
reached the commencement of what our compa-
nions called the Barren Grounds, when both the
banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend behind

the southern bank, which afford excellent pas-

oS

; :

signal instance of its power, that a sacrilegious _

OF THE POLAR SEA. 161

turage for the buffalo, and other grazing animals.
In the evening we saw a herd of the former, but
could not get near to them. After walking fif-
teen miles we encamped. The men’s provision
having been entirely expended last night, we
shared our small stock with them. The poor
dogs had been toiling some days on the’ most
scanty fare; their rapacity, in consequence, was
unbounded ; they forced open a deal box, con-
taining tea, §c., to get at a small piece of meat
_ which had been incautiously placed in it. ,

As soon as daylight permitted, the party com-
menced their march in the expectation of reach-
~ Ing Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not
arrive until noon, although the track was good.

. _ We were received by Mr. Prudens, the gentle-

man in charge of the post, with that friendly at-
tention which Governor Williams’s circular was
calculated to ensure at every station; and were
soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish
of buffalo steaks, which would have been thought
excellent under any circumstances, but were par-
ticularly relished by us, after our travelling fare
of dried meat and pemmican, though eaten with-
out either bread or vegetables. After this
repast, we had the comfort of changing our tra-
velling dresses, which had been worn for four-
teen days. This was a gratification which can _
You. J. N

é

162 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

only be truly estimated by those who may have
been placed under similar circumstances. I was
still in too great pain from swellings in the an-
kles to proceed to La Montée, the North-West
Company’s establishment, distant about three
miles ; but Mr. Hallet, the gentleman in charge,
eame the following morning, and I presented to
‘him the circular from Mr. S. Mac Gillivray. He
had already been furnished, however, with a copy
of it from Mr. Connolly, and was quite prepared

to contribute any assistance that we might re-

quire to forward our advance to the Athabasca.
Mr. Back and I having been very desirous to
See some of the Stone Indians, who reside on the

plains in this vicinity, leamed with regret that a

large band of them had left the house on the pre-
ceding day ; but our curiosity was amply grati-
fied by the appearance of some individuals, on
the following and every subsequent day during
our stay.

The looks of these people would have prepos-
sessed me in their favour, but for the assuratr
ces Thad received from the gentlemen of the posts,
of their gross and habitual treachery. Theif
countenances are affable and pleasing, their eyes

large and expressive, nose aquiline, teeth white
and regular, the forehead bold, the cheek-bones
- Yather high. Their figure is usually good, above

4

ite

OF THE POLAR SEA. 163

the middle size, with slender, but well propor-
tioned, limbs. Their colour is .a light copper,
and they have a profusion of very black hair,
which hangs over the ears, and shades the face.
Their dress, which I think extremely neat and
convenient, consists of a vest and trowsers of
leather fitted to the body; over these a buffalo
robe is tastefully thrown. These dresses are in
general cleaned with white-mud, a sort of marl,
though some use red-earth, a kind of bog-iron-ore :
but this colour neither looks so light, nor forms
such an agreeable contrast as the white with the
black hair of the robe. Their quiver hangs be-
hind them, and in the hand is carried the bow,
with an arrow always ready for attack or defence,
and sometimes they have a gun ; they also carry
a bag containing materials for making a fire,
some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever
valuables they may possess. This bag is neatly
ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus equip-
ped, the Stone Indian bears himself with an air
of perfect independence.

The only articles of European commerce they
Tequire in exchange for the meat they furnish to
the trading post, are tobacco, knives, ammunition,
and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but
more frequently buttons, which they string in
their hairas ornaments. A successful hunter will

164 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

probably have two or three dozen of them hanging
at equal distances on locks of hair, from each side
of the forehead. At the end of these locks, small
coral bells are sometimes attached, which tingle
at every motion of the head, a noise which seems
greatly to delight the wearer; sometimes strings
of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara;
and a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the
head. :

The Stone Indians steal whatever they can,
particularly horses; these animals they maintain
are common property, sent by the Almighty for
the general use of man, and theréfore may be
taken wherever met with ; still they admit of the
right of the owners to watch them, and to prevent
theft if possible. This avowed disposition on
their part calls forth the strictest vigilance at the
different posts ; notwithstanding which the most
daring attacks are often successfully made, some-
times on parties of three or four, but oftener on
individuals. About two years ago a band of |
them had the audacity to attempt to take away
some horses which were grazing before the gate
of the N.W. Company’s fort ; and, after braving
the fire from the few people then at the establish-
ment through the whole day, and returning their

‘Shots occasionally, they actually succeeded in
their enterprise. One man was killed on each

OF THE POLAR SEA. 165

side. They usually strip defenceless persons
whom they meet of all their garments, but
particularly of those which have buttons and
leave them to travel home in that state, however
severe the weather. If resistance be expected,
they not unfrequently murder before they attempt
torob. The traders, when they travel, invariably
keep some men on guard to prevent surprise,
whilst the others sleep; and often practise the
Stratagem of lighting a fire at sunset, which they
leave burning, and move on after dark to a more
distant encampment—yet. these precautions do
‘not always baffle the depredators. Suck is the ~
description of men whom the traders of this river
have constantly to guard against. It must require
a long residence among them, and much expe-
rience of their manners, to overcome the painful
apprehensions their hostility and threats are cal-
culated to excite. Through fear of having their
provision an lies entirely cut off, the traders
are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences,
even murder, though the delinquents present
themselves with unblushing effrontery almost im-
mediately after the fact, and perhaps boast of
having committed it. They do not, on detection,
consider themselves under any obligation to de-
liver up what they have stolen without receiving
an equivalent, : 2

166 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The Stone Indians keep in amity with their
neighbours the Crees from motives of interest ;
and the two tribes unite in determined hostility
against the nations dwelling to the westward,
which are genérally called Shove Indians—a term
of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes
against whom they have waged successful wars.
The Slave Indians are said greatly to resemble
the Stone Indians, being equally desperate and
daring in their acts of aggression and dishonesty
towards the traders.

These parties go to war almost every summer,
and sometimes muster three or four hundred
horsemen on each side, Their leaders, in ap-
proaching the foe, exercise all the caution of the
most skilful generals ; and whenever either party
considers that it has gained the best ground, or
finds it can surprise the other, the attack is made:
They advance at once to close

OF THE POLAR SEA. 167

every part of their dress in token of joy, and in
that state they often come to the establishment,
if near, to testify their delight by dancing and
singing, bearing all the horrid insignia of war, to
display their individual feats. _When in mourn-
ing, they completely coyer their dress and hair
with white mud.

The Crees in the vicinity of Carlton House
have the same cast of countenance as those about
Cumberland, but are much Superior to them in
appearance, which is to be attributed to their
living in a more abundant country. These men
are more docile, tractable, and industrious, than
the Stone Indians, and bring greater supplies of
provision and furs to the posts. Their general
mode of dress resembles that of the Stone In-
dians ; but sometimes they wear cloth leggins,
blankets, and other useful articles, when they can
afford to purchase them. They also decorate their
hair with buttons. :

‘The Crees procure guns from. the traders, and
use them in preference to the bow and arrow;
and from them the Stone Indians often get sup-
plied, either by stealth, gaming, or traffic. Like
the rest of their nation, these Crees are remark-
ably fond of spirits, and would make any sacrifice
to obtain them. I regretted to find the demand
for this pernicious article had greatly increased

168 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

in this department within the few last years.
The following notice of these Indians is extracted
from Dr. Richardson’s Journal :

“ The Asseenaboine, termed by the Crees As-
seeneepoytuck, or Stone Indians, are a tribe of
Sioux, who speak a dialect of the Iroquois, one
of the great divisions under which the American
philologists have classed the known dialects of
the Aborigines of North America, The Stone
Indians, or, as they name themselves, Eascab,

originally entered this part of the country under _

~ the protection of the Crees, and in concert with

them attacked and drove to the westward the.

former inhabitants of the banks of the Saskatcha-
wan. They are still the allies of the Crees, but
have now become more numerous than their
former protectors. They exhibit all the bad qua-
lities ascribed to the Mengwe or Iroquois, ‘the
stock from whence they are sprung. Of their
actual number I could obtain no precise informa-
tion, but it is very great. The Crees who inhabit

the plains, being fur hunters are better known to

the traders.

“ They are divided into two distinct bands,
the Ammisk-watcheéthinyoowuc or Beaver Hill
Crees, who have about forty tents, and the Sacka-

oe or Thick Wood Crees, who have
thirty: The tents avérage nearly ten in-

*

4

«

OF THE POLAR SEA. 169

mates each, which gives a population of seven
hundred and fifty to the whole.

“The nations who were driven to the west-
ward by the Eascab and Crees are termed, in
general, by the latter, Yatcheé-thinyoowuc, which
has been translated Slave Indians, but more

_ Properly signifies Strangers.

“They now inhabit the country around Fort

. Augustus, and towards the foot of the Rocky

Mountains, and have increased in strength until

they have become an object of terror to the Eas:
cab themselves. They rear a great number of ~
horses, make use of fire-arms, and are fond of

European articles ; in order to purchase which
they hunt beaver and other furred animals,
but they depend principally on the buffalo for
subsistence.

“ They are divided into five nations :-—First,
the Pawiiustic-eythin-yoowuc, or Fall Indians, so
named from their former “residence on the falls of
the Saskatchawan. They are the Minetarres,
with whom Captain Lewis’s party had a conflict
on their return from the Missouri. They have
about four hundred and fifty or five fhundred
tents; their language is very guttural and difficult.

“ Second, the Peganoo-eythinyoowuc Pegans,
or Muddy River Indians, name in their own
language Pegance'-koon, have four hundred tents.

170 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

- “ Third, the Meethco-thinyoowuc, or Blood
Indians, named by themselves Kainc'-koon, have
three hundred tents.
_ Fourth, the Cuskceteh--waw-thésseetuck, or
Black-foot Indians, in their own language Saxe-
kce-koon, have three hundred and fifty tents.

“« The last three nations, or tribes, the Pegans,

Blood Indians, and Black-feet, speak the same

language. It is pronounced in a slow and dis-
tinct tone, has much softness, and is easily ac-
quired by their neighbours. I am assured by
the best interpreters in the country, that it bears
no affinity to the Cree, Sioux, or Chipewyan
eae

“ Lastly, the Sassees, or Circees, have one ~

hundred and fifty tents; they speak the same
language with their sangha the Snare In-
dians, who are a tribe of the extensive family of
the Chipewyans*.”

On the 6th of February, we accompanied Mr.
Prudens on a visit to a Cree encampment, and to

* “ As the subject may be interesting to philologists, I subjoin a fem
words of the Blackfoot language :—

Peestah messi tobacco. Stoo-an, a knife. ‘
Mooh an awl. Sassoopats, ammupition.
eg rum, Meenee, beads,
Cook kee give me, Poommees, fat.
Eeninee, buffalo. Mise ta poot, keep off.
Pooxapoot, come here, Saw, no.

nongyI have none. | Stwee, cold ; it is cold.

_Keetstakee, a beaver. -Pennakomit a horse
; Naunt, >“). abew. Ahseeu, :

Me

OF THE POLAR SEA. 171

see a buffalo pound, both of them situated about
six miles from the house; we found seven tents
pitched within a small cluster of pines, which
adjoined the pound. The largest, which we
entered, belonged to the Chief, who was absent,
but came in directly on being informed of our
arrival. The old man (about sixty) welcomed
us with a hearty shake of the hand, and
the customary salutation of “ What cheer?” an ’
expression which they have gained from the
traders. As we had been expected, they had
caused the tent to be neatly arranged, fresh grass
was spread on the ground, buffalo robes were
placed on the side opposite the door for us to sit
on, and a kettle was on the fire to boil meat
for us.

After a few minutes’ conversation, an invitation
was given to the Chief and his hunters to smoke
the calumet with us, as a token of our friendship:
this was loudly announced through the camp,
and ten men from the other tents immediately
joined our party. On their entrance the women
and children, whose presence on such occasions
is contrary to etiquette, withdrew. The calumet
having been prepared and lighted by Mr. Pru-
dens’s clerk, was Pp ented to the Chief, who, on
receiving it, performed the following ceremony
before he commenced smoking :—He first pointed

172 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the stem to the south, then to the west, north,
and east, and afterwards to the heavens, the
earth, and the fire, as an offering to the presiding
spirits ;—he took three whiffs only, and then
passed the pipe to his next companion, who took
the same number of whiffs, and so did each per-
son as it went round. After the calumet had
been replenished, the person who then com-
menced repeated only the latter part of the cere-
mony, pointing the stem to the heaven, the earth,
and the fire. Some Spirits, mixed with water,
were presented to the old man, who, before he
drank, demanded a feather, which he dipped into
the cup several times, and sprinkled the moisture
on the ground, pronouncing each time a prayet-
His first address to the Keetchee Manitou, of
Great Spirit, was, that buffalo might be abundant
“every where, and that plenty might come into
their pound. He next prayed, that the other
animals might be numerous, and_ particularly
those which were valuable for their furs, and
then desired that the party present might escape
the sickness which was then prevalent, and be
blessed with constant health. Some other sup-
plications followed, which we could not get inter-
preted without interrupting the whole proceeding-
To.each of these supplications the whole Indian
Party assented by exclaiming Aha; when he had

OF THE POLAR SEA. 173

finished them the old man drank a little arid
passed the cup round. After these ceremonies
each person smoked at his leisure, and they en-
gaged in a general conversation, which I regretted
not understanding, as it seemed to be very hu-
morous, exciting frequent bursts of laughter.
The younger men, in particular, appeared to
ridicule the abstinence of one of the party, who
neither drank nor smoked. He bore their jeer-
ing with perfect composure, and assured them, as
I was told, they would be better if they would
follow his example. I was happy to learn from
Mr. Prudens, that this man was not only one of
the best hunters, but the most cheerful and con-
tented person of the tribe. a.
Four Stone Indians arrived at this time, and
Were invited into the tent, but one only accepted
the invitation and partook of the fare. When
Mr. Prudens heard the others refuse, he gave im-
mediate directions that our horses should be nar-
towly watched, as he suspected these fellows
wished to carry them off. Having learned that
these Crees considered Mr. Back and myself to
be war chiefs, possessing great power, and that
they expected we should make some address to
them, I desired them to be kind to the traders,
to be industrious in procuring them provision and
furs, and to refrain from stealing their stores and

174 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

horses ; and I assured them, if I heard of their
continuing to behave kindly, that I would men-
tion their good conduct in the strongest terms to
their Great Father across the sea, (by which ap-
pellation they designate the King,) whose favour-
able consideration they had been taught by’the
traders to value most highly.

They all promised to follow my adyice, and
assured me it was not they, but the Stone Indians,
who robbed and annoyed the traders. The
Stone Indian who was present, heard this accu-
sation against his tribe quite unmoved, but he
probably did not understand the whole of the
communication. We left them to finish their
rum, and went to look round the lodges, and ex-
amine the pound, :

The greatest proportion of labour, in savage
life, falls to the women; we now saw them em-
ployed in dressing skins, and conveying wood, —
water, and provision. As they have often to
fetch the meat from some distance, they are as-
sisted in this duty by their dogs, which are not
harnessed in sledges, but carry their burthens in
_ 4 manner peculiarly adapted to this level cout
try. Two long poles are fastened by a collar to
the dog’s neck, their ends trail on the ground,
and are kept at a proper distance by a hoop,
Which is lashed between them, immediately be

OF THE POLAR SEA. 175

hind the dog’s tail; the hoop is covered with
network, upon which the load is placed.

The boys were amusing themselves by shoot-
ing arrows at a mark, and thus training to become
hunters. The Stone Indians are so expert with
the bow and arrow, that they can strike a very
small object at a considerable distance, and will
shoot with sufficient force to pierce through the
body of a buffalo when near.

The buffalo pound was a fenced circular space of
about a hundred yards in diameter; the entrance
was banked up with snow, to a sufficient height
to prevent the retreat of the animals that may
once have entered. For about a mile on each
side of the road leading to the pound, stakes
were driven into the ground at nearly equal dis-
tances of about twenty yards; these were in-
tended to represent men, and to deter the animals
from attempting to break out on either side.
Within fifty or sixty yards from the pound,
branches of trees were placed between these
stakes to screen the Indians, who lie down behind
them to await the approach of the buffalo.

The principal dexterity in this species of chase
is shewn by the horsemen, who have to manceuvre
round the herd in the plains so as to urge them
to enter the roadway, which is about a quarter of

176 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

a mile broad. When this has been accomplished,
they raise loud shouts, and, pressing close upon
the animals, so terrify them that they rush heed-
lessly forward towards the snare. When they
have advanced as far as the men who are lying
in ambush, they also rise, and increase the con-
sternation by violent shouting and firing guns.
The affrighted beasts having no alternative, run
directly into the pound, where they are quickly
despatched, either with an arrow or gun.

There was a tree in the centre of the pound, on
which the Indians had hung strips of buffalo
flesh and pieces of cloth as tributary or grateful
offerings to the Great Master of Life; and we
were told that they occasionally place a man in
the tree to sing to the presiding spirit as the buf-
faloes are advancing, who must keep his station
until the whole that have entered are killed. This
species of hunting is very similar to that of taking
elephants on the Island of Ceylon, but upona ~
smaller scale.

The Crees complained to us of the audacity of
a party of Stone Indians, who, two nights before,
had stripped their revered tree of many of its
offerings, and had injured their pound by setting
their stakes out of the proper places.
_ Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised

-

OF THE POLAR SEA. ; 177

by the Indians with success: of these the hunt:
ing them on horseback requires most dexterity.
An expert hunter, when well mounted, dashes at
the herd, and chooses an individual which he en-
deavours to separate from the rest. If he suc-
ceeds, he contrives to keep him apart by the pro-
per management of his horse, though going at
full speed. Whenever he can get sufficiently near
for a ball to penetrate the beast’s hide, he fires,
and seldom fails of bringing the animal down:
though of course he cannot rest the piece against
the shoulder, nor take a deliberate aim. On this
Service the hunter is often exposed to considera-
ble danger, from the fall of his horse in the nu-
merous holes which the badgers make in these
plains, and also from the rage of the buffalo,
which, when closely pressed, often turns sud-
denly, , rushing furiously on the horse, fre-
quently succeeds in wounding it, or dismounting
the rider. Whenever the animal shews this dis-
position, which the experienced hunter will rea-
dily perceive, he immediately pulls up his horse,
and goes off in another direction.

When the buffaloes are on their guard, horses
Cannot be used in approaching them; but the
hunter dismounts at some distance, and crawls in
the snow towards the herd, pushing his gun be-
fore him. If the buffaloes happen to look towards

Von. I. N

178 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

him, he stops, and keeps quite motionless, until
their eyes are turned in another direction ; by
this cautious proceeding a skilful person will get
so near as to be able to kill two or three out of
the herd. It will easily be imagined this service
cannot be very agreeable when the thermometer
stands 30° or 40° below: zero, as sometimes hap-
pens in this country.

As we were returning from the tents, the dogs
that were harnessed to three sledges, in one of
which Mr. Back was seated, set off in pursuit of
a buffalo-calf. Mr. Back was speedily thrown
from his vehicle, and had to join me in my horse-
cariole. Mr. Herriot, having gone to recover the
dogs, found them lying exhausted beside the
calf, which they had baited until it was as ex-
hausted as themselves. Mr. Herriot, to shew
us the mode of hunting on horseback, as the
traders term it, running of the buffalo, went in
chase of a cow, and killed it after firing three
shots.

The buffalo is a huge and shapeless animal,
quite devoid of grace or beauty; particularly
awkward in running, but by no means slow;
when put to his speed, he plunges through the
deep snow very expeditiously ; the hair is dark
brown, very shaggy, curling about the head, neck,
and hump, and almost covering the eye, particu-

¥

OF THE POLAR SEA. 179

larly in the bull, which is larger and more un-
sightly than the cow. The most esteemed part
of the animal is the hump, called by the Canadians
bos, by the Hudson’s Bay people the wig ; it is
merely a strong muscle, on which nature at cer-
tain seasons forms a considerable quantity of fat.
It is attached to the long spinous processes of
the first dorsal vertebre, and seems to be destin-
ed to support the enormous head of the animal.
The meat which covers the spinal processes them-
selves, after the wig is removed, is next in es-
teem for its flavour and juicinéss, and is more
exclusively termed the hump by the hunters.
The party was prevented from visiting a Stone
Indian encampment by a heavy fall of snow, which
made it impracticable to go and return the same
day. We were dissuaded from sleeping at their
tents bythe interpreter at the N.W. post, who
told us they considered the diseases of hooping-
cough and measles, under which they were now
suffering, to have been introduced by some white
people recently arrived in the country, and that
he feared those who had lost relatives, imagining
we were the persons, might vent their revenge
onus. We regretted to learn that these diseases
have been so very destructive among the tribes
along the Saskatchawan, as to have carried off
about three hundred persons, Crees and Assee-

N 2

180 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

naboines, within the trading circle of these esta-
blishments. The interpreter also informed us of
another bad trait peculiar to the Stone Indians.
Though they receive a visitor kindly at their
tents, and treat him very hospitably during his
stay, yet it is very probable they will despatch
some young men to way-lay and rob him in going
towards the post : indeed, all the traders assured
us it Was more necessary to be vigilantly on our
guard on the occasion of a visit to them, than at
any other time.
Carlton House, (which our observations place
in latitude 52° 50’ 47’ N., longitude, 106° 12 42’
W., yariation 20° 44’ 47” E.) is pleasantly situated
about a quarter of a mile from the river’s side on
“the flat ground under the shelter of the high banks
that bound the plains. The land is fertile, and
produces, with little trouble, ample returns of
wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. The ground is
. Prepared for the reception of these vegetables,
about the middle of April, and when Dr. Richard-
son visited this place on May 10th, the blade of
wheat looked strong and healthy. There were only
five acres in cultivation at the period of my visit
. The prospect from the fort must be pretty in sui
» Mer, owing to the luxuriant verdure of this fertile
soil; but in the uniform and cheerless garb of

°

winter, it has little to gratify the eye.

/

OF THE POLAR SEA. 1s

Beyond the steep bank behind the house, com-
mences the vast plain, whose boundaries are but
imperfectly known; it extends along the south
branch of the Saskatchawan, and towards the
sources of the Missouri, and Asseenaboine Rivers,
being interrupted through the whole of this great
Space, by few hills, or even rising grounds. The
excellent pasturage furnishes food in abundance,
to a variety of grazing animals, of which the buf.
falo, red-deer, and a Species of antelope, are the
most considerable. Their presence naturally at-
tracts great hordes of wolves, which are of ‘two
kinds, the large, and the small. Many bears
prowl about the banks of this river in summer ;
of these the grizzle bear is the most ferocious,
and is held in dread both by Indians and Euro-
peans. The traveller, in crossing these plains,
not only suffers from the want of wood and water,
but is also exposed to hazard from his horse stum-
bling in the numerous badger-foles. In many

large districts, the only fuel is the dried dung of

the buffalo; and when a thirsty traveller reaches
a spring, he has not unfrequently the mortifica-
tion to find that it consists of salt water. |
Carlton House, and La Montée, are provision-
Posts, an inconsiderable quantity of furs being

obtained at either of them. The provisions are _

procured in the winter season from the Indians,

182 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

in the form of dried meat and fat, and when con-
verted by mixture into pemmican, furnish the
principal support of the voyagers, in their pas-
sages to and from the depdts in the summer. A
considerable quantity of it is also kept for winter
use, at most of the fur-posts, as the least bulky
article that can be taken. on a winter journey.
The mode of making pemmican is very simple;
the meat is dried by the Indians in the sun, oF
over a fire, and pounded by beating it with
Stones when spread on a skin. In this state it
is brought to the forts, where the admixture of
hair is partially sifted out, and a third part of
melted fat incorporated with it, partly by turn
ing them over with a wooden shovel, partly by
kneading them together with the hands. The

-pemmican is now firmly pressed into leathern

*

bags, each capable of containing eighty-five
pounds, and being placed in an airy place 0
cool; is fit for use. It keeps «in. this state, if
not allowed to get wet, very well for one yeal:
and with great care it may be preserved good
for two. Between three and four hundred bags
were made here by each of the Companies this
year.

There were eight men, besides Mr. Prudens |
and his clerk, belonging to Carlton House. At
La Hane there were Seventy Canadians and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 183

half-breeds, and sixty women and children, who
consumed upwards of seven hundred pounds of
buffalo meat daily, the allowance per diem for
each man being eight pounds.

There are other provision posts, Fort Augustus
and Edmonton, farther up the river, from whence
some furs are also procured. The Stone Indians
have threatened to cut off the supplies in going up
to these establishments, to prevent their enemies
from obtaining ammunition, and other European
articles; but as these menaces have been so fre-
quently made without being put in execution, the
traders now hear them without any great alarm,
though they take every precaution toprevent being
surprised. Mr. Back and I were present when
an old Cree communicated to Mr. Prudens, that
the Indians spoke of killing all the white people
im that vicinity this year, which information he re-
ceived with perfect composure, and was amused,
as well as ourselves, with the man’s judicious re-
mark which immediately followed, “ A pretty
state we shall then be in, without the goods you
bring us.”

The following remarks on a well-known disease
are extracted from Dr, Richardson’s Journal :—

Bronchocele, or Goitre, is a common disorder
at Edmonton. I examined several of the indi-
viduals afflicted with it, and endeavoured to ob-

184 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

tain every information on the subject from the
most authentic sources. The following facts may
be depended upon. The disorder attacks those
only who drink the water of the river. It is in-
deed in its worst state confined almost entirely
to the half-breed women and children, who reside
constantly at the fort, and make use of river wa-
ter, drawn in the winter through a hole made in
the ice. The men, from being often from home
on journeys through the plain, when their drink is
melted snow, are less affected; and, if any of
them exhibit, during the winter, some incipient
symptoms of the complaint, the annual summer
voyage to the sea-coast generally effects a cure.
The natives who confine themselves to snow Wa-
ter in the winter, and drink of the small rivulets
which flow through the plains in the summer,
are exempt from the attacks of this disease.

“ These facts are curious, inasmuch as they mi-
litate against the generally-received opinion that
the disease is caused by drinking snow water;
an opinion which seems to have originated from
bronchocele being endemial to sub-alpine districts.

“ The Saskatchawan, at Edmonton, is clear in
the winter, and also in the summer, except dur-
_ ing the May and July floods. The distance from
the Rocky Mountains (which I suppose to be of
primitive formation,) is upwards of one hundred

OF THE POLAR SEA. 185

and thirty miles. The neighbouring plains are
alluvial, the soil is calcareous, and contains nu-
merous travelled fragments of limestone. At a
considerable distance below Edmonton, the river,
continuing its course through the plains, becomes
turbid, and acquires a white colour. In this state
itis drunk by the inmates of Carlton House, where
the disease is known only by name. It is said
that the inhabitants of Rocky Mountain House,
sixty miles nearer the source of the river are more
severely affected than those at Edmonton. The
Same disease occurs near the sources of the Elk
and Peace Rivers; but, in those parts of the
country which are distant from the Rocky Moun-
tain Chain, it is unknown, although melted snow
forms the only drink of the natives for nine
months of the year.

*« A residence of a single year at Edmonton is
sufficient to render a family bronchocelous. Many
of the goitres acquire great size. Burnt sponge
has been tried, and found to remove the disease,
but an exposure to the same cause immediately
reproduces it,

“ A great proportion of the children of women
who have goitres, are born idiots, with large
heads, and the other distinguishing marks of
cretins. J could not learn whether it was neces-
sary that both parents should have goitres, to pro-

186 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

duce cretin children ; indeed the want of chastity
in the half-breed women would be a bar to the
deduction of any inference on this head.”

February 8,—Having recovered from the swell-
ings and pains which our late march from Cum-
berland had occasioned, we prepared for the com-
mencement of our journey to Isle 4 la Crosse,
and requisitions were made on both the establish-
ments for the means of conveyance, and the ne-
Cessary supply of provisions for the party, which
were readily fumished. On the 9th the carioles
and sledges were loaded, and sent off after break-
fast; but Mr. Back and I remained till the after-
noon, as Mr. Prudens had offered that his horses
should convey us to the encampment, At3 P.M.
we parted from our kind host, and in passing
through the gate were honoured with a salute of _
musketry. After riding six miles, we joined the
men at their encampment, which was made under
the shelter of a few poplars. The dogs had been
so much fatigued in wading through the very deep
Snow with their heavy burdens, having to drag.
upwards of ninety pounds’ weight each, that they
could get no farther. Soon after our arrival, the
snow began to fall heavily, and it continued
through the greater part of the night.

Our next day’s march was therefore particularly
tedious, the snow being deep, and the route lying

OF THE POLAR SEA. 187

across an unvarying level, destitute of wood, ex-
cept one small cluster of willows. In the after-
noon we reached the end of the plain, and came
to an elevation, on which poplars, willows, and
Some pines grew, where we encamped, having
travelled ten miles. We crossed three small
lakes, two of fresh water, and one of salt, near -
the latter of which we encamped, and were, in
consequence, obliged to use for our tea, water
made from snow, which has always a disagree-
able taste.

We had scarcely ascended the hill on the fol-
lowing morning, when a large herd of red-deer
was perceived grazing at a little distance ; and,
though we were amply supplied with provision,
our Canadian companions could not resist the
temptation of endeavouring to add to our stock.
A half-breed hunter was therefore sent after them.
He succeeded in wounding one, but not so as to
prevent its running off with the herd, in a direc-
tion wide of our course. Acouple of rabbits and
a brace of wood partridges were shot in the after-
noon. There was an agreeable variety of hill
and dale in the scenery we passed through to-day ;
and sufficient wood for ornament, but not enough
to crowd the picture. The valleys. were intersect-
ed by several small lakes and pools, whose
snowy covering was. happily contrasted with the

188 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

dark green of the pine-trees which surrounded
them. After ascending a moderately high hill
by a winding path through a close wood, we
opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois, and had a
full view of its picturesque shores. We crossed
it and encamped.

Though the sky was cloudless, yet the weather
was warm. We had the gratification of finding
a beaten track soon after we started on the mom-
ing of the 12th, and were thus enabled to walk
briskly. We crossed at least twenty hills, and
found a small lake or pool at the foot of each.
The destructive ravages of fire were visible
during the greater part of the day. The only
wood we saw for miles together consisted of pine-
trees stript of their branches and bark by this
element : in other parts poplars alone were grow-
ing, which we have remarked invariably to suc-
ceed the pine after a conflagration. We walked
twenty miles to-day, but the direct distance was
only sixteen.

The remains of an Indian hut were found in @
deep glen, and close to it was placed a pile of
_ wood, which our companions supposed to cover a
deposit of provision. Our Canadian voyagers, in-
duced by their insatiable desire of procuring food, _
proceeded to remove the upper pieces, and exa-
mine its contents ; when, to their surprise, they

OF THE POLAR SEA. 189

found the body of a female, clothed in leather,
which appeared to have been recently placed
there. Her former garments, the materials for
making a fire, a fishing-line, a hatchet, and a
bark dish, were laid beside the corpse. The
wood was carefully replaced. A small owl,
perched on a tree near the spot, called forth
many singular remarks from our companions, as
to its being a good or bad omen.

We walked the whole of the 13th over flat mea-
dow-land, which is much resorted to by the buffalo
at all seasons. Some herds of them were seen,
which our hunters were too unskilful to approach.
In the afternoon we reached the Stinking Lake,
which is nearly of an oval form. Its shores are
very low and Swampy, to which circumstances,
and not to the bad quality of the waters, it owes
its Indian name. Our observations place its
western part in latitude 53° 25’ 24” N., longi-
tude 107° 18’ 58” W., variation 20° 32’ 10” E.

After a march of fifteen miles and a half, we
encamped among a few pines, at the only spot at
which we saw sufficient wood for making our fire
during the day. The next morning, about an
hour after we had commenced our march, we came
| upon a beaten track, and perceived recent marks
of snow-shoes. Ina short time an Iroquois join-
ed us, who was residing with a party of Cree

+

190 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Indians, to secure the meat and furs they should
collect, for the North-West Company. He ac-
companied us as far as the stage on which his
meat was placed, and then gave us a very press-
ing invitation to halt for the day and partake of
his fare; which, as the hour was too early, we
declined, much to the annoyance of our Canadian
companions, who had been cherishing the pros-
pect of indulging their amazing appetites at this
well-furnished store, ever since the man had been
with us. He gave them, however, a small supply
previous to our parting. The route now crossed
Some ranges of hills, on which fir, birch, and pop-
lar, grew so thickly, that we had much difficulty in
getting the sledges through the narrow pathway
between them. In the evening we descended
from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy
meadows, and encamped at their northern ex-
tremity, within a cluster of large pine-trees, the
branches of which were elegantly decorated with
abundance of a greenish yellow lichen. Our
march was ten miles. The weather was very
mild, almost too warm for the exercise we were
taking.

We had a strong gale from the N.W. during
the night, which subsided as the morning opened.
One of the sledges had been so much broken yes-
terday amongst the trees,that we had to divide its

OF THE POLAR SEA. 191

cargo among the others. We started after this
had been arranged, and finding almost imme-
diately a firm track, soon arrived at some In-
dian lodges to which it led. The inhabitants
were Crees, belonging to the posts on the Sas-
katchawan, from whence they had come to hunt
beaver. We made but a short Stay, and pro-
ceeded through a Swamp to Pelican Lake. Our
view to the right was bounded by a range of
lofty hills, which extended for several miles in a
north and south direction, which, it may be re-
marked, has been that of all the Shy mewlwe
have passed since quitting the plain. —

Pelican. Lake is of an irregular form, about six
miles from. east to west, and eight from north to
south ; it decreases to the breadth of a mile to-
iiss the northern extremity, and is there termi-
hated by a creek. We went up this creek for a
short distance, and then struck into the woods,
and encamped among a cluster of the firs, which
the Canadians term cyprés (pinus Banksiana ):
having come fourteen miles and a half.

February 16.—Shortly after commencing the
journey to-day, we met an Indian and his family,
who had come from the houses at Green Lake ;
they informed us the track was well beaten the
whole way. We, therefore, put forth our utmost
Speed in the hope of reaching them by night ; but
were disappointed, and had to halt at dark, about

192 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

twelve miles from them, in a fisherman's hut,
which was unoccupied. Frequent showers of
snow fell during the day, and the atmosphere
was thick and gloomy.

We started at an early hour the following
morning, and reached the Hudson’s Bay Com-
pany’s post to breakfast, and were received very
kindly by Mr. Mac Farlane, the gentleman in
charge. The other establishment, situated on
the opposite side of the river, was under the
direction of Mr. Dugald Cameron, one of the
partners of the North-West Company, on whom
Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival, and
were honoured with a salute of musquetry.

These establishments are small, but said to be
well situated for the procuring of furs; as the
numerous creeks in their vicinity are much re-
sorted to by the beaver, otter, and musquash.
The residents usually obtain a superabundant
supply of provision. This season, however, they
have barely had sufficient for their own support,
owing to the epidemic which has incapacitated
the Indians for hunting. The Green Lake lies
nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in
length, and does not exceed one mile and a half
of breadth in any part. The water is deep, and
it is in consequence one of the last lakes im the
country that is. frozen. Excellent tittameg and
trout are caught in it from March to December,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 193

but after that time most of the fish remove to
some larger lake.

We remained two days, awaiting the return of
some men who had been sent to the Indian
lodges for meat, and who were to go on with us.
Mr, Back and I did not need this rest, having
completely surmounted the pain which the walk-
ing in snow-shoes had occasioned. We dined
twice with Mr. Cameron, and received from him
many useful suggestions respecting our future
operations. This gentleman having informed us
that provisions would, Erebably. be Laey scarce

next spring in Fe Sca it, in con-
pee ce_of sb Mcitlenase of pei Indians during
the I hunting season, undertook at my request to

cause a : pay of pemmican to be conveyed from
the Saskatchawan to Isle 4 la Crosse for our use
during the winter, and I wrote to apprize Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Hood, that they would find
it at the latter post when they passed; and also
to desire them to bring as much as — canoes
would stow from Cumberland.

The atmosphere was clear and cold during our
Stay ; observations were obtained at the Hudson
Bay Fort, lat. 54° 16’ 10” N., long. 107° 29’ 52’
W.,-var, 22° 6' 35” E.

- February 20,—Having been scalieised with
carioles, sledges, and. provisions, from the two

You 1... 0

194 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

posts, we this day recommenced our journey, and
were much amused by the novelty of the salute
given at our departure, the guns being principally
fired by the half-breed women in the absence of
the men. Our course was directed to the end of
the lake, and for a short distance along a small
river; we then crossed the woods to the Beaver
River, which we found to be narrow and very ser-
pentine, having moderately high banks. We
encamped about one mile and a half further: up
among poplars. The next day we proceeded
along the river; it was winding, and about two
hundred yards broad. We passed the mouths
of two rivers whose waters it receives ; the latter
one, we were informed, is a channel by ch
the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. The
banks of the river became higher as we at
vanced, and were furnished with pines, poplars,
and willows.

Though the weather was very cold, we travelled
more comfortably than at any preceding time
since our departure from Cumberland, as we were
enabled, by having light carioles, to ride in
them nearly the whole day, warmly covered up
with a buffalo robe. Mr, M‘Leod, of the North
West Company, joined us. He had kindly
brought some things from Green Lake, which,
our sledges could not carry, Pursuing our route

OF THE POLAR SEA. 195

along the river, we reached at an early hour the
upper extremity of the ‘: Grand Rapid,” where
the ice was so rough that the carioles and sledges
had to be conveyed across a point of land. Soon
after noon we left thé river, inclining N.E., and
directed our course N.W., until we reached Long
Lake, and encamped at its northern extremity,
having come twenty-three miles. This lake is
about fourteen miles long, and from three quar-
ters to one mile and a half broad : its shores and
islands low, but well wooded. There were fre-
quent snow-showers during the day. :
“ February 23,—The night was very stormy,
> wind became more moderate in the
ng. We passed to-day through several
nameless lakes and swamps before we came to
Train Lake, which received its name from being
the place where the traders procured the birch
to make the sledges, or traineaux ; but this wood
has been all used, and there only remain pines
and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden
with fish, kindly sent to meet us by Mr. Clark, of
the Hudson’s Bay Company, directly he heard of
our approach. Towards the evening the weather
_ became much more unpleasant, and we were ex-
posed to a piercingly cold wind, and much snow-
drift, in traversing the Isle 4 la Crosse Lake; we
were, therefore, highly pleased at reaching the
)

2

196 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Hudson’s Bay House by six P.M. We were
received in the most friendly manner by Mr.
Clark, and honoured by volleys of musketry on
our arrival. Similar marks of attention were
shewn to us on the following day by Mr. Bethune,
the partner in charge of the North-West Com-
pany’s Fort, I found here the letters which I had
addressed from Cumberland, in November last,
to the partners of the North-West Company, in
the Athabasca. This circumstance convinced
me of the necessity of our present journey.
These establishments are situated on the
southern side of the lake, and close to each other.
They are forts of considerable importance, being
Placed at a point of communication with the
English River, the Athabasca, and Columbia
Districts. The country around them is low, and
intersected with water, and was formerly much
frequented by beavers and otters, which, how-
ever, have been so much hunted by the Indians,
that their number is greatly decreased. The
Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees
and some Chipewyans ; they scarcely ever come
except in the spring and autumn: in the former
Season to bring their winter’s collection of furs,
and in the latter to get the stores they require.
Three Chipewyan lads came in during our
Stay, to report what furs the band to which they

OF THE POLAR SEA. 197

belonged had collected, and to desire they might
be sent for; the Indians having declined bringing
either furs or meat themselves, since the oppo-
sition between the Companies commenced. Mr.
Back drew the portrait of one of the boys.

Isle 4 la Crosse Lake receives its name from an
island situated near the forts, on which the Indians
formerly assembled annually to amuse themselves

at the game of the Cross. ~ It is justly celebrated
for abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh
from five to fifteen pounds. The residents live
principally upon this most delicious fish, which
fortunately can be eaten a long time without pro-
ducing any disrelish. They are plentifully caught
with nets throughout the year, except for two or
three months.

March 4.—We witnessed the Aurora Borealis
very brilliant, for the second time since our de-
parture from Cumberland. A winter encamp-
ment is not a favourable situation for viewing
this phenomenon, as the trees in general hide
the sky. Arrangements had been made for re-
commencing our journey to-day, but the wind
was stormy, and the snow had drifted too much
for travelling with comfort ; we therefore stayed
and dined with Mr. Bethune, who promised to
render every assistance in getting pemmican con-
veyed to us from the Saskatchawan, to be in

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

readiness for our canoes, when they might arrive
in the spring; Mr. Clark also engaged to pro-
cure six bags for us, and to furnish our canoes
with any other supplies which may be wanted,
and can be spared from his post, and to contri-
bute his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the
Athabasca, if our canoes cannot carry it all...

I feel greatly indebted to Mr. Clark, for much”
valuable information respecting the country and
the Indians residing to the north of Slave Lake,
and for furnishing me with a list of stores he
supposed we should require. This gentleman
had resided some years on Mackenzie's River,
and had been once so far towards its mouth as to
meet the Esquimaux in great numbers. But
they assumed such a hostile attitude, that he
deemed it unadvisable to attempt opening any
communication with them, and retreated as
speedily as he could.

The observations we obtained here shewed that
the chronometers had varied their rates a little,
in consequence of the jolting of the carioles in
which we rode ; but their elrors. and. rates. were
ascertained previous to our departure. We ob-
served the position of this fort to be. latitude 53°
25 35" N., longitude 107° 51. 00" W., by lu
hars reduced back from Fort Chipewyan, varia-
ton 22° 15' 48” W., dip 84° 13’ 35”. “3

OF THE POLAR SRA. 199

March 5.—We recommenced our journey this
morning, having been supplied with the means
of conveyance by both the Companies in equal
proportions. Mr. Clark accompanied us with
the intention of going as far as the boundary of
his district. This gentleman was an experienced
winter traveller, and we derived much benefit

om his suggestions; he caused the men to
arrange the encampment with more attention to
comfort and shelter than our former companions
had done. After marching eighteen miles we
put up on Gravel Point, in the Deep River.

At nine the next morning, we came to the com-
mencement of Clear Lake. We crossed its
southern extremes, and then went over a point of
land to Buffalo Lake, and encamped after travel-
ing twenty-six miles. After supper we were en-
tertained until midnight with paddling songs, by
our Canadians, who required very little stimulus
beside their natural vivacity, to afford us this di-
version. The next morning we arrived at the
establishments which are situated on the western
side of the lake, near to a small stream, called the
Beaver River. They were small log buildings,
hastily erected last October, for the convenience
of the Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr.

Mac Murray, a partner in the N.W. Company,
having sent to Isle 4 la Crosse an invitation to

200 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Mr. Back and me; our carioles were driven to
his post, and we experienced the kindest recep-
tion. These posts are frequented by only a few
Indians, Crees, and Chipewyans. The country
round is not sufficiently stocked with animals to
afford support to many families, and the traders
almost entirely subsist on fish caught in the au-
tumn, prior to the lake being frozen. The water
being shallow, the fish remove to a deeper part,
as soon as the lake is covered with ice. The
Aurora Borealis was brilliantly displayed on both
the nights we remained here, but particularly on
the 7th, when its appearances were most divetsi-
fied, and the motion extremely rapid. Its corus-
cations occasionally concealed from sight stars of
the first magnitude in passing over them, at
other times these were faintly discerned through
them ; once I perceived a stream of light to illu-
mine the under surface of some clouds as’ it
passed along. There was no perceptible noise.
Mr. Mac Murray gave a dance to his voya-
gers and the half-breed women; this is a treat
which they expect on the arrival of any stranger
at the post. is ii
- We were presented by this gentleman with
the valuable skin of a black fox, which he had
entrapped some days before our arrival; it
was torwarded to England with other specimens.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 201

Our observations place the North-West Com-
pany’s House in latitude 55° 53’ 00” N., longi.
tude 108° 51’ 10” W.; variation 22° 33’ 22” E.

The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate
height, and well wooded, but immediately beyond
the bank the country is very swampy and inter-
sected with water in every direction. At some
distance from the western side there is a conspi-
cuous hill, which we hailed with much pleasure, as
being the first interruption to the tediously uni-
form scene we had for some time passed through.

On the 10th we recommenced our journey after
breakfast, and travelled quickly, as. we had the
advantage of a well-beaten track. At the end of
eighteen miles we entered upon the river
«‘Loche,” which has a serpentine course, and is
confined between alluvial banks that support
stunted willows and a few pines; we encamped
about three miles further on; and in the course
of the next day’s march perceived several holes
in the ice, and many unsafe places for the sledges.
Our companions said the ice of this river is al-
ways in the same insecure state, even during the
most severe winter, which they attributed to
warm springs. Quitting the river, we crossed a
portage and came upon the Methye Lake, and
goon afterwards arrived at the trading posts situa-
ted on the western side of it. These were per-

202 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

fect huts, which had been hastily built after the
commencement of the last winter. We here saw
two hunters who where Chipewyan _half-breeds,
and made many inquiries of them respecting the
countries we expected to visit, but we found
_ them quite ignorant of every part beyond the

thabasca Lake. They spoke of Mr. Heame
and of his companion Matonnabee, but did not
add to our stock of information respecting that
journey. It had happened before their birth,
but they remembered the expedition of Sir Alex-
ander Mackenzie towards the sea.

This is a picturesque lake, about ten miles
long and six broad, and receives its name from
a species of fish caught in it. ‘This fish, the
methye, is not much esteemed ; the residents
never eat any part but the liver except through
necessity, the dogs dislike even that. ‘The titta-
meg and trout are also caught in the fall of the
year. The position of the houses by our obsef-
vations is latitude 56° 24° 99” N., longitude _
109° 23' 06” W., variation 22? 50): 28" Bo» a

“On the 13th we renewed our journey and
parted! from Mr: Clark, io whom-we were mad
obliged for his hospitality and kindness. We
Soon reached the Methye Portage, and had @
very pleasant ride acrogs it in our carioles. The
‘rack was good and led through groups of pines,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 203

so happily placed that it would not have required
a great stretch of imagination to fancy ourselves
driving through a well-arranged park, We had
now to cross a small lake, and then gradually
ascended hills beyond it, until we arrived at the
summit of a lofty chain of mountains command-
ing the most picturesque and romantic prospect
we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges
of high hills run parallel to each other for several
miles, until the faint blue haze hides their parti-
cular characters, when they slightly change their
course, and are lost to the view. The space
between them is occupied by nearly a daxclplain.
through which a river pursues a meandering
course, and receives supplies from the perce and
rills issuing from the mountains on each side.
The prospect was delightful even amid the snow,

and. though marked with all the cheerless cha-
racters of winter; how much more charming
must it be when the trees are in leaf, and the
ground is arrayed in summer verdure! Some
faint idea of the difference was conveyed to my:
mind by witnessing the effect of the departing
rays of a brilliant sun. The distant prospect,
however, is surpassed in grandeur by the wild
scenery which appeared immediately below our
feet. There the eye penetrates into vast ravines
from, two to three hundred feet in depth, that are

* 204 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

clothed with trees, and lie on either side of the
narrow pathway descending to the river over
eight successive ridges of hills. At one spot
termed the Cockscomb, the passenger stands in-
sulated as it were on a small slip, where a false
step might precipitate him into the glen. From
this place Mr. Back took an interesting and ac-
curate sketch of the view, to enable him to do
which, we encamped early having come twenty-

The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in
extent, and over this space the canoes and all their
cargoes are carried, both in going to and from the
Athabasca department. It is part of the range of
mountains which separates the waters flowing
south from those flowing north. According to Sir
Alexander Mac Kenzie, “ this range of hills con-
tinues in a 8. W. direction until its local height is
lost between the Saskatchawan and Elk Rivers,
close on the banks of the former, in latitude 53°
36'N., longitude 113°45' W., when it appears to
take its course due north.” Observations, taken in
the spring by Mr. Hood, place the northside of the
portage in latitude 56° 41’ 40” N., longitude 109°
52 15” W., variation 25° 2 30" E., dip 85° 7' 27’.
_ At daylight on the 14th we began to descend
the range of hills leading towards the river, and
no small care was required to prevent the sledge*

OF THE POLAR SEA. | 205

from being broken in going down these almost
perpendicular heights, or being precipitated into
the glens oneach side. Asa precautionary mea-
sure the dogs were taken off, and the sledges
guided by the men, notwithstanding which they
descended with amazing rapidity, and the men
were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes in
endeavouring to stop them. When we had ar-
rived at the bottom I could not but feel astonish-
ed at the laborious task which the voyagers have
twice in the year to encounter at this place, in
conveying their stores backwards and forwards.
We went across the Clear Water River, which
runs at the bases of these hills, and followed an
Indian track along its northern bank, by which
we avoided the White Mud and Good Portages.
We afterwards followed the river as far as the
Pine Portage, when we passed through a very
romantic defile of rocks, which presented the ap-
pearance of Gothic ruins, and their rude charac-
ters were happily contrasted with the softness of
the snow, and the darker foliage of the pines
which crowned their summits. We next crossed
the Cascade Portage, which is the last on the way
to the Athabasca Lake, and soon afterwards came
to some Indian tents, containing five families, .
belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We smoked
the calumet in the chief’s tent, whose name was

206 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the Thumb, and distributed some tobacco and a
weak mixture of spirits and water among the
men. They received this civility with much less
grace than the Crees, and seemed to consider it
a matter of course. There was an utter neglect —
of cleanliness, and a total want of comfort in their
tents; and the poor creatures were miserably
clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied us frort
the Methye Lake, accounted for their being in.
this forlorn condition by explaining, that this band
of Indians had recently destroyed every thing
they possessed, as a token of their great grief for
the loss of their relatives in the prevailing sick-
ness. It appears that no article is spared by
these unhappy men when a near relative dies;
their clothes and tents are cut to pieces, their
guns broken, and every other weapon rendered
useless, if some person do not remove these at-
ticles from their sight, which is seldom done—
Mr. Back sketched one of the children, This de-
lighted the father very much, who charged the
boy to be very good now, since his picture had
been drawn by a great chief, We learned that
they prize pictures very highly, and esteem any
they can get, however badly executed, as efficient
narn They were unable to give us any infor
mation respecting the country beyond the Atha~
basea Lake, which is the boundary of their pere-
*

OF THE POLAR SEA. 207

grinations to the northward. Having been ap-

_ prized of our coming, they had prepared an en-

campment for us; but we had witnessed too many

proofs of their importunity to expect that we could
“pass the night near them in any comfort, whilst

Ps

either spirits, tobacco, or sugar remained in our
possession ; and therefore preferred to go about
two miles further along the river, and to encamp
among a cluster of fine pine-trees, after a journey
of sixteen miles.

On the morning of the 1 5th, in proceeding along
the river we perceived a strong smell of sulphur,
and on the north shore found a quantity of it scat-
tered, which seemed to have been deposited by
some spring in the neighbourhood: it appeared
very pure and good. We continued our course
the whole day along the river, which is about four —
hundred yards wide, has some islands, and is
confined between low land, extending from the
bases of the mountains on each side. We put—
up at the end of thirteen miles, and were then
joined by a Chipewyan, who came, as we sup-
posed, to serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet,

_ but as none of the party could communicate with

our new friend, otherwise than by signs, we
waited patiently until the morning to see what he
intended to do, The wind blew a gale during
the night, and the — fell heavily. The next

208 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

day our guide led us to the Pembina River, which
comes from the southward, where we found traces
of Indians, who appeared to have quitted this
station the day before; we had, therefore, the be-
nefit of a good track, which our dogs much requir: ”
ed, as they were greatly fatigued, by having
dragged their loads through very deep snow for
the last two days. A moose-deer crossed the
river just before the party: this animal is plenti-
ful in the vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant
well-sheltered place, having travelled fourteen

A short distance on the following morning,
brought us to some Indian lodges, which be-
longed to an old Chipewyan chief, named the
Sun, and his family, consisting of five hunters,
their wives, and children. They were delight-
ed to see us, and when the object of our eX
pedition had been explained to them, expressed
themselves much interested in our progress ; but
they could give no particle of information respect:
ing the countries beyond the Athabasca Lake.
We smoked with them, and gave each person
a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. A
Canadian servant of the North-West Company,
Who was residing with them, informed us that
this family had lost numerous relatives, and that
the destruction of property, which had been made

.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 209

after their deaths, was the only cause for the piti-
able condition in which we saw them. He said
the whole family were industrious hunters, and,
therefore, were usually better provided with
clothes, and other useful articles, than most of the
Indians. We purchased from them a pair of
snow-shoes, in exchange for some ammunition.
The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them
good and easy to walk in; we saw some here
upwards of six feet long, and three broad: with
these unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the
spring, when there is a crust on the surface of the
Snow, will run down a moose or red deer.

We made very slow progress after leaving this
party, on account of the deep snow, but continued
along the river until we reached its junction
with the Athabasca or Elk River. We obtained
observations on an island, a little below the
Forks, which gave, longitude 111° 8’ 42” W.,
variation 24° 18’ 20’ E. Very little wood has
been seen during this day’s march. The western
shore, near the Forks, is destitute of trees; it is
composed of lofty perpendicular cliffs, which are
now covered withsnow. The eastern shore sup
ports a few pines. ;

March 18.—Soon after our departure from the
encampment, we met two men from the establish-
ment at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct

Vor. I. P

“210 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

information of its situation and distance. Having
the benefit of their track, we marched at a tole-
rably quick pace, and made twenty-two miles in
the course of the day, though the weather was
very disagreeable for travelling, being stormy,
with constant snow. We kept along the river
the whole time: its breadth is about two miles.
The islands appear better furnished with wood
than its banks, the summits of which are almost
bare. Soon after we had encamped our Indian
guide rejoined us ; he had remained behind yes
terday, to accompany a friend on a hunting e&
cursion, without consulting us, On his retum
this evening he made no endeavour to explain
the reason of his absence, but sat down coolly,
and began to prepare his supper. This beha-
viour made us sensible that little dependence i§
to be placed on the continuance of an Indian
guide, when his inclination leads him away.
Early the next morning we sent forward the
Indian and a Canadian, to apprize the gentlemal
in charge of Pierre au Calumet of our approach; ¢
and, after breakfast, the rest of the party pl
ceeded along the river for the station, which We
reached in the afternoon. The senior partner of
the North-West Company in the Athabasca de-
partment, Mr. John Stuart, was in charge of the
post. Though he was quite ignorant until this

OF THE POLAR SEA. 211

morning of our being in the country, we found
him prepared to receive us with great kindness,
and ready to afford every information and assist-
ance, agreeably to the desire conveyed in Mr.
Simon M‘Gillivray’s circular letter. This gen-
tleman has twice traversed this continent, and
reached the Pacific by the Columbia River ; he
was, therefore, fully conversant with the different
modes of travelling, and with the obstacles that
may be expected in passing through unfrequented
countries. His suggestions and advice were con-
Sequently very valuable to us. Not having been
to the northward of the Great Slave Lake, he had
no e of that line of country, except what
he had gained from the reports of Indians. He
was of opinion, however, that positive informa-
tion, on which our course of proceedings may
safely be determined, might be procured from the
Indians,that frequent the north side of the lake,
but not before the spring when they come to the
forts. He recommended my writing to the partner
_ in charge of that department, requesting him to
collect all the intelligence he could, and to pro-
vide guides and hunters from the tribe which is
best acquainted with the country through which
we proposed to travel.

To our great regret, Mr. Stuart expressed
much doubt as to our prevailing upon any expe-

P2

212 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

rienced Canadian voyagers to accompany us to
the sea, in consequence of their dread of the
Esquimaux ; who, he informed us, had already
destroyed the crew of one canoe, which had been
sent under Mr. Livingstone, to open a trading
communication with those who reside near the
mouth of the Mackenzie River ; and he also men-
tioned, that the same tribe had driven away the
canoes under Mr. Clark’s direction, going to
them on a similar object, to which circumstance
have alluded in my remarks at Isle a la Crosse.
This was unpleasant information; but we were
comforted by Mr, Stuart’s assurance that himself
and his partners would use every endeavour to re-
move their fears, as well as to promote our views
in every other way; and he undertook, as
necessary part of our equipment in the spring,
to prepare the bark and other materials for com-
structing two canoes at this post. ai
Mr. Stuart informed us that the residents at Fott
Chipewyan, from the recent sickness of their In-
dian hunters, had been reduced to subsist entirely
on the produce of their fishing-nets, which did not
then yield more than a bare sufficiency for theit
Support; and he kindly proposed to us to-remaill
with him until the spring ; but, as we were most
desirous to gain all the information we could as
early as possible, and Mr, Stuart assured us that

OF THE POLAR SEA. 213

the addition of three persons would not be mate-
rially felt in their large family at Chipewyan, we
determined on proceeding thither, and fixed on
the 22d for the day of our departure.

Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the
place where the stone is procured, of which many
of the pipes used by the Canadians and Indians
are made. It is aclayey limestone, impregnated
with various shells. ‘The house is built on the
summit of a steep bank, rising almost perpen-

“dicular to the height of one hundred and eighty
feet, and from it an extensive prospect is com-
manded along this fine river, and over the exten-
sive plains which stretch out several miles at the
back of it—and are bounded by hills of consider-
able height, which seem to be better furnished
with wood than the neighbourhood of the fort,
where the trees grow very scantily. There had
been an establishment belonging to the Hudson’s
Bay Company on the opposite bank of the river,
but it was abandoned in December last, on
account of the residents not being able to pro-
cure provision, from their hunters having been
disabled by the epidemic sickness, which has
carried off one-third of the Indians in these parts.
They belong to the Northern Crees, a name given
them from their residing in the Athabasca de-
partment. There are now but few families of

214 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

these men, who, formerly, by their numbers and
predatory habits, spread terror among the natives
of this part of the country.

There are springs of bituminous matter on
several of tHe islands near to these houses: and ~
the stones on the river-bank are much impreg-
nated with this useful substance. There is also
another place remarkable for the production of a
sulphureous salt, which is deposited on the sur-
face of a round-backed hill about half a mile from
the beach, and on the marshy ground underneath
it. We visited these places at a subsequent
period of the journey, and descriptions of them
will appear in Dr. Richardson’s Mineralogical
Notices. :

The latitude of the North-West Company’s
House is 57° 24°06" N., but this was the only
observation we could obtain, owing to the atmo-
sphere being cloudy during our stay. Mr, Stuart
had an excellent thermometer, which indicated
the lowest state of temperature to be 43° below
zero. He told me 45° was the lowest temperature
he had ever witnessed at the Athabasca ot Great
Slave Lake, after many years’ residence. On

the height of 43°; the atmosphere was sultty,
sy ow fell constantly » and there was quite an ap-
pearance of a change in the season, On the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 215

22d we parted from our hospitable friend, and
recommenced our journey, but under the expec-
tation of seeing him again in May ; at which time
the partners of the Company usually assemble at
Fort Chipewyan, when we hope the necessary
arrangements for our future proceedings will be
completed, We encamped at sunset at the end
of fourteen miles, having walked the whole way
along the river, which preserves nearly a true
north course, and is from four hundred to six
hundred yards broad. The banks are high, and
well furnished with the liard, spruce, fir, alder,
birch-tree, and willows. Having come nineteen
miles and a half, on the 23d, we encamped among
pines of a great height and girth.

Showers of snow fell until noon on the follow-
ing day, but we continued our journey along the
river, whose banks and islands became gradually
lower as we advanced, and less abundantly sup-
plied with wood, except willows. We came up
with an old Canadian, who was resting his
wearied dogs during the heat of the sun. He
was carrying meat from some Indian lodges to
Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding two
hundred and fifty pounds on his sledge, which
was dragged by two miserable dogs. He came
up to our encampment after dark. We were much

~ amused by the altercation that took place between

7

> iis

?

216 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

him and our Canadian companions as to the qua-
lifications of their respective dogs. This, how-
ever, is such a general topic of conversation
among the voyagers in the encampment, that we
should not probably have remarked it, had not
the old man frequently offered tc bet the whole of
his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean ‘as
they were, would drag their load to the Athabasca
Lake in less time than any three of theirs could.
Having expressed our surprise at his apparent
temerity, he coolly said the men from the lower
countries did not understand the management of
their dogs, and that he depended on his superior
skill in driving ; and we soon gathered from his
remarks, that the voyagers of the Athabasca de- .
partment consider themselves as very superior to
any other. The only reasons which he could
assign were, that they had borne their burdens
across the terrible Methye Portage, and that they
were accustomed to live harder and more pre-
cariously,

March 25.—Having now the guidance of the
old Canadian, we sent forward the Indian, and
one of our men, with letters to the gentleman at
the Athabasca Lake. The rest of the party set
off afterwards, and kept along the river until ten,
when we branched off by portages into the Em-
barras River, the usual channel of communi¢ation

OF THE POLAR SEA. 217

in canoes with the lake. It is a narrow and ser-
pentine stream, confined between alluvial banks
which support pines, poplars, and willows. We
had not advanced far before we came up with the
two men despatched by us this morning. The
stormy weather had compelled them to encamp,
as there was too much drifting of the snow for
any attempt being made to cross the lake. We,
were obliged, though most reluctantly, to follow
their example; but comforted ourselves with
the reflection that this was the first time we had
been stopped by the weather during our long
journey, which was so near at an end. The gale
afterwards increased, the squalls at night became
. very violent, disburthened the trees of the snow,
and gave us the benefit of a continual fall of
patches from them, in addition to the constant
shower. We therefore quickly despatched our
suppers, and retired under the shelter of our
blankets.

March 26.—The boisterous weather continued
through the night, and it was not before six this
morning that the wind became apparently mo-
derate, and the snow ceased. Two of the Cana-
dians were immediately sent off with letters to
the gentlemen at Fort Chipewyan. After break-
fast we also started, but our Indian friend, having
‘a great indisposition to move in such weather,

218 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

remained by the fire. We soon quitted the river,
and after crossing a portage, a small lake, and a
point of land, came to the borders of the Mam-
ma-wee Lake. We then found our. error as to
the strength of the wind; and that the gale still
blew violently, and there was so much drifting of
the snow as to cover the distant objects by which
@ur course could be directed. We fortunately got
a glimpse through this cloud of a cluster of islands
in the direction of the houses, and decided on
walking towards them; but in doing this we
suffered very much from the cold, and were
obliged to halt under the shelter of them, and
await the arrival of our Indian guide. He con-
ducted us between these islands, over a small
lake, and by a Swampy river, into the Athabasca
Lake, from whence the establishments were
‘Visible. At four P.M. we had the pleasure of
alriving at Fort Chipewyan, and of being te
ceived by Messrs. Keith and Black, the partners
of the North-West Company in charge, in the
most kind and hospitable manner. . Thus has
terminated a winter's journey of eight hundred
and fifty-seven miles, in the progress of which
there has been a great intermixture of agreeable
and disagreeable circumstances. Could the
amount of each be balanced, I suspect the latter
would much Preponderate ; and amongst these

OF THE POLAR SEA. 219

the initiation into the practice of walking in snow-
shoes must be considered as prominent. The
suffering it occasions can be but faintly imagined
by a person who thinks upon the inconvenience
of marching with a weight of between two and
three pounds constantly attached to galled feet,
and swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice
only will enable the novice to surmount this
pain.

The next evil is the being constantly exposed
to witness the wanton and unnecessary cruelty
of the men to their dogs, especially those of the
Canadians, who beat them unmercifully, and
habitually vent on them the most dreadful and
disgusting imprecations. There are other in-
conveniences which though keenly felt during
the day’s journey, are speedily forgotten when
stretched out in the encampment before a large
fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your compa-
_ nions, who usually pass the evening in recounting
their former feats in travelling. At this time the
Canadians are always cheerful and merry, and
the only bar to their comfort arises from the fre-
quent interruption occasioned by the dogs, who
are constantly prowling about the circle, and
snatching at every kind of food that happens to
be within their reach. These useful animals are
a comfort to them afterwards, by the warmth

220 © JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

they impart when lying down by their side or
feet, as they usually do. But the greatest grati-
fications a traveller in these regions enjoys, are
derived from the hospitable welcome he receives
at every trading post, however poor the means
of the host may be; and from being disrobed
even for a short time of the trappings of a
voyager, and experiencing the pleasures of
cleanliness,

The following are the estimated distances, in
statute miles, which Mr. Back and I have tra-
velled since our departure from Cumberland: ~

From Cumberland House to Carlton House . . 263

From Carlton to Isle 4 la Crosse 230
. From Isle a la Crosse to north side of the Methye

Portage
From the Methye Ncioes to o Fort Chipewyan . 240

OF THE POLAR SEA. "991

CHAPTER V.

Transactions at Fort Chipewyan—Arrival of Dr. Richardson and
Mr. Hood—Preparations for our Journey to the Northward.

oe On the day after our arrival at Fort
Chipewyan we called upon Mr, Mac Donald, the
- gentleman in charge of the Hudson’s Bay Estab-
lishment called Fort Wedderburne, and delivered
to him Governor Williams’s circular letter, which
desired that every assistance should be given to
further our progress, and a statement of the re-
quisitions which we should have to make on his
post.
Our first object was to obtain some certain
information respecting our future route: and ac-
cordingly we received from one of the North-
West Company’s interpreters, named Beaulieu,
a half-breed, who had been brought up amongst
the Dog-ribbed and Copper-Indians, some satis-
factory information, which we afterwards found
tolerably correct, respecting the mode of reaching
the Copper-mine River, which he had descended
a considerable way, as well as of the course of

222 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

that river to its mouth. The Copper Indians,
however, he said, would be able to give us more
accurate information as to the latter part of its
course, as they occasionally pursue it to the sea.
He sketched on the floor a representation of the
river, and a line of coast according to his idea of
it. Just as he had finished, an old Chipewyan
Indian, named Black Meat, unexpectedly came
in, and instantly recognised the plan. He then
took the charcoal from Beaulieu, and inserted a
track along the sea-coast, which he had followed
in returning from a war excursion, made by his’
tribe against the Esquimaux. He detailed seve-
ral particulars of the coast and the sea, which he
represented as studded with well-wooded islands,
and free from ice, close to the shore, in the
month of July, but not to a great distance. He de-
scribed two other rivers to the eastward of the
Copper-mine River, which also fall into the
Northern Ocean. The Anatessy, which issues
from the Contway-to or Rum Lake, and the
Thloueea-tessy or Fish River, which rises neat
the eastern boundary of the Great Slave Lake:
but he represented both of them as being shallow,
and too much interrupted by barriers for being
navigated in any other than small Indian canoes

~ Having received this satisfactory intelligence,

T wrote immediately to Mr. Smith, of the North

OF THE POLAR SEA. 223

West Company, and Mr. M‘Vicar, of the Hud-
son’s Bay Company, the gentlemen in charge of
the posts at the Great Slave Lake, to communi-
cate the object of the Expedition, and our pro-
posed route; and to solicit any information they
possessed, or could collect, from the Indians,
relative to the countries we had to pass through,
and the best manner of proceeding. As the
Copper Indians frequent the establishment on
the north side of the lake, I particularly requested
them to explain to that tribe the object of our
visit, and to endeavour to procure from them
some guides and hunters to accompany our
party. Two Canadians were sent by Mr. Keith
with these letters.

The month of April commenced with fine a
clear but extremely cold weather; unfortunately
we were still without a thermometer, and could
not ascertain the degrees of temperature. The
coruscations of the Aurora were very brilliant
almost every evening of the first week, and were
generally of the most variable kind. On the 3d,
they were particularly changeable. The first
appearance exhibited three illuminated beams
issuing from the horizon in the north, east, and
west points, and directed towards the zenith; in
a few seconds these disappeared, and a complete
circle was displayed, bounding the horizon at an

224 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

elevation of fifteen degrees. There was a quick
lateral motion in the attenuated beams of which
this zone was composed. Its colour was a pale
yellow, with an occasional tinge of red.

On the 8th of April the Indians saw some
geese in the vicinity of this lake, but none of the
migratory birds appeared near to the houses
before the 15th, when some swans flew over.
These are generally the first that arrive; the
weather had been very stormy for the four pre-
ceding days, and this in all probability kept the
birds from venturing farther north than where
the Indians had first seen them.

In the middle of the month the snow began to
waste daily, and by degrees it disappeared from
the hills and the surface of the lake. On the
17th and 19th the Aurora appeared very brilliant
in patches of light, bearing N.W. An old Cree
Indian having found a beaver lodge near to the
fort, Mr. Keith, Back, and I, accompanied him to
see the method of breaking into it, and theit
mode of taking those interesting animals. The
lodge was constructed on the side of a rock ina
small lake, having the entrance into it beneatl
the ice. The frames were formed of layers of

Sticks, the interstices being filled with mud, and
the outside was plastered with earth and stones
which the frost had so completely consolidated,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 225

that to break through required great labour, with
the aid of the ice chisel, and the other iron instru-
ments which the beaver hunters use. The chase,
however, was unsuccessful, as the beaver had
previously evacuated the lodge.

The first geese we observed flying near to the
fort were seen on the 2lst, and some were
brought to the house on the 30th, but they were
very lean. On the 25th flies were seen sporting
in the sun, and on the 26th the ice on the lake,
near the channel of the river, was overflowed, in
consequence of the Athabasca river having broken
up; but except where this water spread, there
was no appearance of decay in the ice.

- May.—During the first part of this month, the
wind blew from the N.W., and the sky was
cloudy. It generally thawed during the day, but
froze through the night. On the 2nd the Aurora
faintly gleamed through very dense clouds.

We had a long conversation with Mr. Dease
of the North-West Company, who had recently
arrived from his station at the bottom of the
Athabasca Lake. This gentleman, having passed
several winters on the Mackenzie’s River, and
at the posts to the northward of Slave Lake,
possessed considerable information respecting the
Indians, and those parts of the country to which
our inquiries were directed, which he very

Vor. f. Q

226 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

promptly and kindly communicated. During our
conversation, an old Chipewyan Indian, named
the Rabbit’s Head, entered the room, to whom
Mr. Dease referred for information on some
point. We found from his answer that he was a
step-son of the late Chief Matonnabee, who had
accompanied Mr, Hearne on his journey to the
sea, and that he had himself been of the party,
but being then a mere boy, he had forgotten
many of the circumstances. He confirmed, how-
ever, the leading incidents related by Heame,
and was positive he reached the sea, though he
admitted that none of the party had tasted the
water. He represented himself to be the only
survivor of that party. As he was esteemed a
good Indian, I presented him with a medal, which
he received gratefully, and concluded a long
Speech upon the occasion, by assuring me he
should preserve it carefully all his life. The old
man afterwards became more communicative, and
unsolicited began to relate the tradition of his
tribe, respecting the discovery of the Copper
Mine, which we thought amusing: and as the
subject is somewhat connected with our future
researches, I will insert the translation of it which
was given at the time by Mr. Dease, though a
slight mention of it has been made by Hearne.
“The Chipewyans Suppose the Esquimaux

OF THE POLAR SEA. 227

originally inhabited some land to the northward
which is separated by the sea from this country ;
and that in the earliest ages of the world a party
of these men came over, and stole a woman from
their tribe, whom they carried to this distant
country and kept in a state of slavery. She was
very unhappy in her situation, and effected her
escape after many years’ residence among them.
The forlorn creature wandered about, for some
days, in a state of uncertainty what direction to
take, when she chanced to fall upon a beaten
path, which she followed, and was led to the sea.
At the sight of the ocean her hope of being able
to return to her native country vanished, and she
sat herself down in despair, and wept. A wolf
now advanced to caress her, and having licked
the tears from her eyes, walked into the water,
and she perceived with joy that it did not reach
up to the body of the animal; emboldened by
this appearance, she instantly arose, provided
two sticks to support herself, and determined on
following the wolf. The first and second nights
she proceeded on, without finding any increase
in the depth of the water, and when fatigued,
rested herself on the sticks, whose upper ends
she fastened together for the purpose. She was
alarmed on the third morning, by arriving at
a deeper part, but resolved on = forward
2

my

228 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

at any risk, rather than return; and her daring
perseverance was crowned with success, by her
attaining her native shore on the fifth day. She
fortunately came to a part where there was a
beaten path, which she knew to be the track
made by the rein-deer in their migrations. Here
she halted, and prepared some sort of weapon for
killing them; as soon as this was completed, she
had the gratification to behold several herds of
them advancing along the road, and had the hap-
piness of killing a sufficient number for her win-
ter’s subsistence, which she determined to pass
at that place, and therefore formed a house for
herself, after the manner she had learned from
the Esquimaux. When spring came, and she
emerged from her subterraneous dwelling, (for
such the Chipewyans suppose it to have beets)
she was astonished by observing a luminous
glittering appearance on a distant hill, which she
knew was not produced by the reflection of the
sun, and being at a loss to assign any other cause
for it, she resolyed on going up to the shining
object, and then found the hill was entirely com
posed of metal. She broke off several pieces,
and perceiving that it yielded so readily to het
beating, it occurred to her this copper (for that
_ was the metal,) would be very serviceable to het

countrymen, if she could find them again. While

% “le

OF THE POLAR SEA. 229

she was meditating on what was to be done, the
thought struck her that it would be advisable to
attach as many pieces of copper to her dress as
she could, and then proceed into the interior, in
search of some inhabitants, who, she supposed,
would give her a favourable reception, on ac-
count of the valuable treasure she had brought.

“ It happened that she met her own relations,
and the young men, elated with the account she
had given of the hill, made her instantly return
with them ; which she was enabled to do, having
taken the precaution of putting up marks to indi-
cate the path. The party reached the spot in
safety, but the story had a melancholy catas-
trophe. These youths, overcome by excess of
joy, gave loose to their passions, and offered the
grossest insults to their kind benefactress. She
powerfully resisted them for some time, and when
her strength was failing, fled to the point of
the mountain, as the only place of security. Im-
mediately she had gained the summit, the earth
opened, and ingulphed both herself and the moun-
tain, to the utter dismay of the men, who were
not more astonished at its sudden disappearance,
than sorrowful for this just punishment of their
wickedness. Ever since this event, the copper
has only been found in small detached pieces on
the surface of the earth.”

230 : JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

On the 10th of May we were gratitie byd the
appearance of spring, though the ice remained
firm on the lake. The anemone (pulsatilla, pasque
flower,) appeared this day in flower, the trees
began to put forth their leaves, and the mus-
quitoes visited the warm rooms. On the 17th
and 18th there were frequent showers of rain,
and much thunder and lightning. This moist
weather caused the ice to waste so rapidly, that
by the 24th it had entirely disappeared from
the lake. The gentlemen belonging to both the
Companies quickly arrived from the. different
posts in this department, bringing their winter's
collection of furs, which are forwarded reese
establishments to the depdts.

I immediately waited on Mr, Colin Roberts,
the agent of the Hudson’s Company, and commu-
nicated to him, as I had done before to the
several partners of the North-West Company,
our plan, and the requisitions we should have t0
make on each Company, and I requested of all
the gentlemen the favour of their advice and sug-
gestions. As I perceived that the arrangement
of their winter accounts, and other business:
fully occupied them, I forbore further pressing
the subject of our concerns for some days, and
until there was an appearance of despatching the
first brigade of canoes. It then became neces

OF THE POLAR SEA. 231

sary to urge their attention to them; but it was
evident, from the determined commercial oppo-
sition, and the total want of intercourse between
the two Companies, that we could not expect to
receive any cordial advice, or the assurance of
the aid of both, without devising some expedient
to bring the parties together. I therefore caused
a tent to be pitched at a distance from both esta-
blishments, and solicited the gentlemen of both
Companies to meet Mr. Back and myself there,
for the purpose of affording us their combined
assistance.

With this request they immediately complied ;
and on May 25th we were joined at the tent by
Mr. Stuart and Mr. Grant, of the North-West
Company, and Mr. Colin Robertson, of the Hud-
son’s Bay Company, all of whom kindly gave
very satisfactory answers to a series of questions
which we had drawn up for the occasion, and
promised all the aid in their power.

Furnished with the information thus obtained,
we proceeded to make some arrangements re-
specting the obtaining of men, and the stores we
should require for their equipment, as well as for
presents to the Indians; and on the following
day a requisition was made on the Companies
for eight men each, and whatever useful stores
they could supply. We learned with regret, that,

a

232 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

in consequence of the recent lavish expenditure
of their goods in support of the opposition, their

supply to us would, of necessity, be very limited. —

The men, too, were backward in offering their
services, especially those of the Hudson’s Bay
Company, who demanded a much higher rate of

wages than I considered it would be proper to

grant. £8
June 3.—Mr. Smith, a partner of the North-
West Company, arrived from the Great Slave
Lake, and was the bearer of the very gratifying
intelligence that the principal Chief of the Copper

Indians had received the communication of our

arrival with joy, and given all the intelligence he
possessed respecting the route to the sea-coast
by the Copper Mine River; and that he and a
party of his men, at the instance of Mr. Wentzel,
a clerk of the North-West Company, whom they
wished might go along with them, had engaged
to accompany the Expedition as guides and
hunters. They were to await our arrival at Fort
Providence, on the north side of the Slave Lake:
Their information coincided with that given by
Beaulieu. They had no doubt of our being able
to obtain the means of subsistence in travelling
to the coast. This agreeable intelligence had @
happy effect upon the minds of the Canadian
voyagers, many of their fears being removed:

OF THE POLAR SEA. 233

several of them seemed now disposed to volun-
teer ; indeed, on the same evening, two men
from the North-West Company offered themselves
and were accepted.

June 5.—This day Mr. Back and I went over
to Fort Wedderburne, to see Mr. Robertson re-
specting his quota of men. We learned from
him that, notwithsanding his endeavours to per-
suade them, his most experienced voyagers still
declined engaging without very exorbitant wages.
After some hesitation, however, six men engaged
with us, who were represented to be active and
steady; and I also got Mr. Robertson’s permission
for St. Germain, an interpreter belonging to this
Company, to accompany us from Slave Lake, if
he should choose. The bow-men and steers-men
were to receive one thousand six hundred livres
Halifax per annum, and the middle men one
thousand two hundred, exclusive of their neces-
sary equipments ; and they stipulated that their
wages should be continued until their arrival in
Montreal, or their rejoining the service of their
present employers.

_ I delivered to Mr. Robertson an official re-
quest, that the stores we had left at York Factory
and the Rock Depét, with some other supplies,
might be forwarded to Slave Lake by the first
brigade of canoes which should come in. He

234 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

also took charge of my letters addressed to the
Admiralty. Five men were afterwards engaged
from the North-West Company for the same
wages, and under the same stipulations as the
others, besides an interpreter for the Copper
Indians ; but this man required three thousand
livres Halifax currency, which we were obliged
to give him, as his services were indispensable.
The extreme scarcity of provision at the posts
endered it necessary to despatch all our men to
the Mammawee Lake, where they might procure
their own subsistence by fishing, The women and
children resident at the fort were also sent away
for the same purpose ; and no other families were
permitted to remain at the houses after the depar-
ture of the canoes, than those belonging to the men
who were required to carry on the daily duty. ©
The large party of officers and men, which had
assembled here from the different posts in the
department, was again quickly dispersed. The
first brigade of canoes, laden with furs, was de-
Spatched to the depét on May 30th, and the
others followed in two or three days afterwards.
Mr. Stuart, the senior partner of the North-
West Company, quitted us for the same destina-
tion, on June 4th; Mr, Robertson, for his depst,
on the next day; and on the 9th we parted with
our friend Mr. Keith, to whose unremitting kind

OF THE POLAR SEA. 235

ness we felt much indebted. I intrusted to his
care a box containing some drawings by Mr.
Back, the map of our route from Cumberland
House, and the skin of a black beaver, (pre-
sented to the Expedition by Mr. Smith,) with my
official letters, addressed to the under Secretary
of State. I wrote by each of these gentlemen to
inform Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood of the
scarcity of stores at these posts, and to request
them to procure all they possibly could on their
route. Mr. Smith was left in charge of this post
during the summer ; this gentleman soon evinced
his desire to further our progress, by directing a
new canoe to be built for our use, which was
commenced upon immediately.

_ June 21.—This day an opportunity offered of
sending letters to the Great Slave Lake; and I
availed myself of it, to request Mr. Wentzel would
accompany the Expedition agreeably to the de-
sire of the Copper Indians, communicating to
him that I had received permission for him to do
so from the partners of the North-West Com-
pany. Should he be disposed to comply with
my invitation, I desired that he would go over to
Fort Providence, and remain near the Indians
whom he had engaged for our service. I feared
lest they should become impatient at our unex-
pected delay, and, with the usual fickleness of

és

236 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the Indian character, remove from the establish-
ment before we could arrive. It had been my
intention to go to them myself, could the articles,
with which they expected to be presented on my
arrival, have been provided at tHese establish-
ments ; but as they could not be procured, I was
compelled to defer my visit until our canoes
should arrive. Mr. Smith supposed that my ap-
pearance amongst them, without the means of
satisfying any of their desires, would give them
an unfavourable impression respecting the expe-
dition, which would make them indifferent to ex- _
ertion, if it did not even cause them to withdraw
from their engagements. |
The establishments at this place, Forts Chipe-
wyan and Wedderburne, the chief posts of the
Companies in this department, are conveniently
situated for communicating with the Slave and
Peace Rivers, from whence the canoes assemble
in the spring and autumn; on the first occasion
they bring the collection of furs which has been “
made at the different outposts during the winter;
and at the latter season they receive a supply of
stores for the equipment of the Indians in thei
vicinity. Fort Wedderburne is a small house
which was constructed on Coal Island about five
years ago, when the Hudson’s Bay Company re
commenced trading in this part of the country-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 237

Fort Chipewyan has been built many years, and
is an establishment of very considerable extent,
conspicuously situated on a rocky point of the
northern shore ; it has a tower which can be
Seen at a conSiderable distance. This addition
was made about eight years ago, for the purpose
of watching the motions of the Indians, who in-
tended, as it was then reported, to destroy the
house and all its inhabitants. They had been in-
Stigated to this rash design by the delusive
Stories of one among them, who had acquired
great influence over his companions by his sup-
posed skill in necromancy. This fellow had pro-
phesied that there would soon be a

change in the face of their country ; that fertility
and plenty would succeed to the present sterility ;
and that the present race of white inhabitants,
unless they became subservient to the Indians,
would be removed, and their place be filled by
other traders, who would supply their wants in
every possible manner. The poor deluded
wretches, imagining they would hasten this happy
change by destroying their present traders, of
whose submission there was no prospect, threat-
ened to extirpate them. None of these menaces,
however, were put in execution. They were
probably deterred from the attempt by perceiving
that a most vigilant guard was kept over them.

238 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The portion of this extensive lake which is near
to the establishments, is called “The Lake of
the Hills,” not improperly, as the northern shore
and the islands are high and rocky. The south
side, however, is quite level, consisting of alluvial
land, subject to be flooded, lying betwixt the dif-
ferent mouths of the Elk River, and much inter-
sected by water. The rocks on the northern
shore are composed of syenite over which the
soil is thinly spread ; it is, however, sufficient to
Support a variety of firs and poplars, and many
shrubs, lichens and mosses. The trees are now
in full foliage, and the plants generally in flower,
and the whole scene is quite enlivening. There
can scarcely be a higher gratification than that
which is enjoyed in this country in witnessing the
rapid change which takes place in the course of @
few days in the spring ; scarcely does the snow
disappear from the ground, before the trees are
clothed with thick foliage, the shrubs open theif
leaves, and put forth their variegated flowers, and
the whole prospect becomes animating. ‘The
Spaces between the rocky hills, being for the most
part swampy, support willows and a few poplars:
These spots are the favourite resort of the mus
quitoes, which incessantly torment the unfortt-
hate persons who have to pass through them.

Some of the hills attain an elevation of five OF

OF THE POLAR SEA. 239

six hundred feet, at the distance of a mile from the
house ; and from their summits a very picturesque
view is commanded of the lake, and of the sur-
rounding country. The land above the Great
Point at the confluence of the main stream of the
Elk River is six or seven hundred feet high, and
stretches in a southern direction behind Pierre au
Calumet. Opposite to that establishment, on
the west side of the river, at some distance in the
interior, the Bark Mountain rises and ranges to the
N.W., until it reaches Clear Lake, about thirty
miles to the southward of these forts, and then
goes to the south-westward. The Cree Indians
generally procure from this range their provi-
sion, as well as the bark for the making of the
canoes. There is another range of hills on the
south shore, which runs towards the Peace River.

The residents of these establishments depend
for subsistence almost entirely on the fish which
this lake affords ; they are usually caught in suf-
ficient abundance throughout the winter, though
at the distance of eighteen miles from the houses;
on the thawing of the ice, the fish remove into
some smaller lakes, and the rivers on the south
shore. Though they are nearer to the forts than
in winter, it frequently happens that high winds
prevent the canoes from transporting them thither,
and the residents are kept in consequence with-

240 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

out a supply of food for two or three days to-
gether. The fish caught in the net are the attih-
hawmegh, trout, carp, methye, and pike *.
The traders here also get supplied by the hun-
ters with buffalo and moose deer meat (which
animals are found at some distance from the forts,)
but the greater part of it is either in a dried state,
or pounded ready for making pemmican ; and is
tidy for the men whom they keep trayelling
during the winter to collect the furs from. the
Indians, and for the crews of the canoes on theif
outward passage to the depéts in spring. . There
was a great want of provision this season, and
both the companies had much difficulty to provide _
a bare sufficiency, for the use of their different
brigades of canoes. Mr. Smith assured me he
had only five hundred pounds of meat remaining
after the canoes had been despatched for the use
of the men who might travel from the post during
the summer, and that five years preceding, there
had been thirty thousand pounds in store under
similar circumstances. He ascribed this amazing
difference more to the jadolent habits which the
Indians had acquired since trugg
commenced, than to their recent sickness, mel
Honing in confirmation of his opinion that they

* See page 92,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 241

could now, by the produce of little exertion, ob-
tain whatever they demanded from either esta-
blishment.

_ At the opening of the water in spring, the In-
dians resort to the establishments to settle their
accounts with the traders, and to procure the ne-
cessaries they require for the summer. This
meeting is generally a scene of much riot and
confusion, as the hunters receive such quantities
of spirits as to keep them in a state of intoxica-
tion for several days. This spring, however,
owing to the great deficiency of spirits, we had
the gratification of seeing them generally sober.
They belong to the great family of the Chipewyan,
or Northern, Indians, dialects of their language
being spoken in the Peace, and M‘Kenzie’s
Rivers, and by the populous tribes in New Cale-
donia, as ascertained by Sir Alexander M Kenzie
in his journey to the Pacific. They style them-
selves generally Dinneh men, or Indians, but each
tribe, or horde, adds some distinctive epithet taken
from the name of the river, or lake, on which they
hunt, or the district from which they last migrated.
Those who come to Fort Chipewyan term them-
selves Saw-eessaw-dinneh, (Indians from the ris-
ing sun, or Eastern Indians,) their original hunt-
ing grounds being between the Athabasca, and
Great Slave Lakes, and Churchill River. This

Vou. I. R
-

242 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

district, more particularly termed the Chipewyan
lands, or barren country, is frequented by nu-
merous herds of rein-deer, which furnish easy
subsistence, and,clothing to the Indians ; but the
traders endeavour to keep them in the parts to
the westward where the beavers resort. There
are about one hundred and sixty hunters who
carry their furs to the Great Slave Lake, forty to
Hay River, and two hundred and forty to Fort
Chipewyan. A few Northern Indians also resort
to the posts at the bottom of the Lake of the
Hills, on Red Deer Lake, and to Churchill. The
distance, however, of the latter post from their
hunting grounds, and the sufferings to which they
are exposed in going thither from want of food,
haye induced those who were formerly accustomed
to visit it, to convey their furs to some nearer sta
tion.

These people are so minutely described »
Hearne and M‘Kenzie, that. little can be 2
by.a passing stranger, whose observations were
made during short interviews, and. when they
were at the forts, where they lay aside many
of their distinguishing characteristics, and strive
at an imitation of the. manners of the voyaeet
and traders.

» The Chipewyans are by no means prepossess
ing in their appearance : they have broad face’

*

OF THE POLAR SBA. 243

projecting cheek-bones and wide nostrils: but
they have generally good teeth, and fine eyes.
When at the fort they imitate the dress of the
Canadians, except that, instead of trowsers, they
prefer the Indian stockings, which only reach
from the thigh to the ankle, and in ‘place of the
waistband they have apiece of cloth round the
middle which hangs down loosely before and be-
hind. Their hunting dress consists of a leathern
shirt and stockings, over which a blanket is thrown,
the head being covered with a fur cap or band.
Their manner is reserved, and their habits are
selfish; they beg with unceasing importunity for
every thing they see. I never saw men who
either received or bestowed a gift with such bad
grace ; they almost snatch the thing from you in the
one instance, and throw it at you in the other. It
could not be expected that such men should dis-
play in their tents, the amiable hospitality which
prevails generally amongst the Indians of this
country. A stranger may go away hungry from
their lodges, unless he possesses’ sufficient impu-
dence to thrust, uninvited, his knife into the kettle,
and help himself: The owner, indeed, never
deigns to take any notice of such an act of rude-
ness, except by a frown, it being beneath the
dignity of a hunter, to make disturbance about a

piece of meat.
R2

244, JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

As some relief to the darker awe of their
character it should be stated that instances of
theft are extremely rare amongst them. They
profess strong affection for their children, and
Some regard for their relations, who are often
numerous, as they trace very far the ties of con-
Sanguinity. A curious instance of the former was
mentioned to us, and so well authenticated, that 1
shall venture to give it in the words of Dr. a
son’s Journal, —

. “© A-young Shipssyan had separated from the
rest of his band for the purpose of trenching
beaver, when his wife, who was his sole com-
panion, and in her first pregnancy, was seized
with the pains of labour. She died on the thitd
day after she had given birth to a boy. The
husband was inconsolable, and vowed in his al
guish never to take another woman to wife, but
his grief was soon in some degree ab |
anxiety for the fate of his infant son. Topreserte
its life he descended to the office of nurse, wae
grading in the eyes of a Chipewyan, as partaking ©
of the duties of awoman. He swaddled it in sof
moss, fed it with broth made from the flesh ofthe
deer, and to still its cries applied it to his breast,
Praying earnestly to the great Master of Life, 10
assist his endeavours, The foree of the powerful
Passion by which he was actuated produced the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 245

same effect in his case, as it has done in some
others which are recorded: a flow of milk ac:
tually took place from his breast. He succeeded
in rearing his child, taught him to be a hunter;
and when he attained the age of manhood, chose
him a wife from the tribe. The old man kept his
vow in never taking a second wife himself, but
he delighted in tending his son’s children, and
when his daughter-in-law used to interfere, saying,
that it was not the occupation of a man, he was
wont to reply, that he had promised to the great
Master of Life, if his child was spared, never to
be proud, like the other Indians. He used to
mention, too, as a certain proof of the approba-
tion of Providence, that although he was always
obliged to carry his child on his back while hunt-
ing, yet that it never roused a moose by its cries,
being always particularly still at those times.
this Indian in his old age, and that his left breast»
even then, retained the unusual size it had ac-
quired in his occupation of nurse.”

“We had proof of their sensibility towards their
relations, in their declining to pitch their tents
where they had been accustomed to do for many
years, alleging a fear of being reminded of the

7 dens : Poy

* Mr. Wentzel.

246 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

happy hours they had formerly spent there, in the
society of the affectionate relatives whom the
sickness had recently carried off. The change of
situation, however, had not the effect of relieving
them from sorrowful impressions, and they occa-
sionally indulged in very loud lamentations, as
they sat in groups, within and without their tents.
Unfortunately, the. spreading of a severe dysen-
tery amongst them, at this time, gave occasion
for the renewal of their grief. The medicinal
charms of drumming and singing were plentifully
applied, and once they had recourse to conjuring
over a sick person. I was informed, however;
that the Northern Indians do not try this ex-
pedient for the cure of a patient. so often as the
Crees ; but when they do, the conjuror is most
assiduous, and suffers great personal. fatigue:
Particular persons only, are trained in the mys
teries of the art of conjuring; to procure the te-
covery of the sick, or to disclose future events:
On extraordinary occasions the man remains
in his narrow conjuring tent, for, days: withou
eating, before he can determine the matter to his
satisfaction. When he is consulted about the
sick, the patient is shut up with him; but om
other occasions he is alone, and the poor creature

often works his mind up toa pitch of illusion that —

can scarcely be imagined by one who has not

OF THE POLAR SEA. 247

witnessed it. His deluded companions seat them-
selves round his tent, and await his communica-
tion with earnest anxiety, yet during the progress
of his manceuvres, they often venture to question
him, as to the disposition of the Great Spirit.

These artful fellows usually gain complete as-
cendency over the minds of their companions.
They are supported by voluntary contributions
of provision, that their minds may not be diverted
by the labour of hunting, from the peculiar duties
of their profession.

The ‘chiefs among the Chipewyans are row
totally without power. The presents of a flag,
and a gaudy dress, still bestowed upon them by
the traders, do not procure for them any respect
or obedience, except from the youths of their own
families. This is to be attributed mainly to their
living at peace with their neighbours, and to the
facility which the young men find in getting their
wants supplied independent of the recommenda-
tion of the chiefs, which was formerly required.
in war excursions, boldness and intrepidity would

command respect and procure authority ; but
the influence thus acquired wotld, probably, cease
with the occasion that called it forth. The traders,
however, endeavour to support their authority by
continuing towards them the accustomed marks

248 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

of respect, hoisting the flag and firing a salute of
musketry on their entering the fort. |
The chief halts at a distance from the house,
and despatches one of his young men to announce
his approach, and to bring his flag, which is car-
ried before him when he arrives. The messen-

ger carries back to him some vermilion to orna- —

ment the faces of his party, together with a look-
ing-glass and comb, some tobacco, and a few
rounds. of ammunition, that they may return the
Salute. These men paint round the eyes, the
forehead, and the cheek-bones.

The Northern Indians evince no little vanity,
by assuming to themselyes the comprehensive
title of “ The People,” whilst they designate all
other nations by the name of their particular
country. . If men were seen at a distance, and @
Chipewyan was asked who those persons wel;
he would answer, The People, if he recognised
them to belong to his tribe, and never Chipe-
wyans ; but he would give them their respective
names, if they were Europeans, Canadians, of
Cree Indians. @:.

As they suppose their ancestors to come oti:
ginally from the east, those who happen to be
born in the eastern part of their territory, at
considered to be of the best origin. I have bee

OF THE POLAR SEA. 249

informed, that all the Indians who trade at the
different posts in the north-west parts of America,
imagine that their forefathers came from the east,
except the Dog-ribs, who reside between the
Copper Indian Lands and the Mackenzie’s River,
and who deduce their origin from the west, which
is the more remarkable, as they speak a dialect
of the Chipewyan language. I could gather no
information respecting their religious opinions,
except that they have a tradition of the deluge.
_ The Chipewyans are considered to be less
expert hunters than the Crees, which probably
arises from their residing much on the. barren
lands, where the rein-deer are so numerous that
little skill is requisite. A good hunter, however,
is highly esteemed among them. The facility of
procuring goods, since the commercial oppaaiioen
i,has gi ven great
native intiehianice of slidecmiticms as is manifested
by the difference in the amount of their collections
of furs and provision between the late and former
years. From six to eight hundred packs of furs
' used formerly to be sent from this department,
now the return seldom exceeds half that amount.
The decrease in the provision has been already
mentioned.
_ The Northern Indians suppose that they ori-
” ginally sprang from a dog; and about five years

250 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ago, a superstitious fanatic so strongly pressed
upon their minds the impropriety of employing
these animals, to which they were related, for
purposes of labour, that they universally resolved
against using them any more, and, strange:as it
may seem, destroyed them. They now haveto
drag every thing themselves on sledges. This
laborious task falls most heavily on the women;
nothing can more shock the feelings of a person
accustomed to civilized life, than to witness the
state of their degradation. When a party is on
a march the women have to drag the tent, the
meat, and whatever the hunter possesses, whilst
he only carries his gun and medicine case. In
the evening they form the encampment, cut wood,
fetch water, and prepare the supper; and then,
perhaps, are not permitted to partake of the fare
until the men have finished. A successful hunter
sometimes has two or three wives ; whoever
happens to be the favourite, assumes authority
over the others, and has the management of the
tent. These men usually treat their wives.-unl-
kindly, and even with harshness ; except, indeed,
at the time when they are about to increase the
family, and then they shew them much indul-
sence. ‘

Hearne charges the Chipewyans with thedread-
ful practice of abandoning, when in extremity;

OF THE POLAR SEA. 254

their aged and sick people. The only instance
that came under our personal notice was attended
with some palliating circumstances :—An old wo-
man arrived at Fort Chipewyan, during our resi-
dence, with her son, a little boy about ten years
old, both of whom had been deserted by their
relations, and left in an encampment, when much
reduced by sickness: two or three days after their
departure the woman gained a little strength, and,
with the assistance of the boy, was enabled to
paddle a canoe to the fishing station of this post,
where they were supported for some days, until
they were enabled to proceed in search of some
other relations, who, they expected, would treat
them with more kindness. I learned, that the
woman bore an extremely bad character, and
had even been guilty of infanticide, and that
her ey considered her rsediences merited
the desertion.

' This tribe, since its present intimate connexion
with the traders, has discontinued its: war excur-
sions against the Esquimaux, but they still speak
of that nation in terms of the most inveterate
hatred. We have only conversed with four men
who have been engaged in any of those expedi-
tions ; all these confirm the statements of Black-
meat respecting the sea-coast. Our observations
concerning the half-breed population in this

252, JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

vicinity, coincided so exactly with those which have
been given of similar persons in Dr. Richardson’s
account of the Crees, that any statement respect-
ing them at this place is rendered unnecessary.
Both the Companies have wisely prohibited their
servants from intermarrying with pure Indian
women, which was formerly the cause of many
quarrels with the tribes. _
. The weather was extremely variable during
the month of June; we scarcely had two clear
days in succession, and the showers of rain were
frequent; the winds were often strong, and ge-
nerally blowing from the north-east quarter. On
the evening of the 16th the Aurora Borealis was
visible, but after that date the nights were too
light for our discerning it. rier
The musquitoes swarmed in great numbers
about the house, and tormented us so incessantly
by their irritating stings, that we were compelled
to keep our rooms constantly filled with smoke,
which is the only means of driving them away:
the weather indeed was now warm. Having re-
ceived one of Dolland’s eighteen-inch spirit ther-
mometers from Mr. Stuart, which he had the
kindness to send us from his post at Pierre au
Calumet, after he had learned that our’s had bee?
rendered useless, I observed the temperature, at
noon, on the 25th of June, to be 63°. si

OF THE POLAR SEA. 253

On the following morning we made an excur-
‘sion, accompanied by Mr. Smith, round the fish:
ing stations on the south side of the lake, for the
purpose of visiting our men: we passed several
groups of women and children belonging to both
the forts, posted wherever they could find a suf.
ficiently dry spot for an encampment. At length
we came to our men, pitched upon a narrow strip
of land, situated between two rivers. Though
the portion of dry ground did not exceed fifty
yards, yet they appeared to be living very com-
fortably, having formed huts with the canoes’ sail
and covering; and were amply supported by the
fish their nets daily furnished. - They sometimes
had a change in their fare, by procuring a few
ducks and other water fowl, which resort in great
abundance to the marshes, by which they were
surrounded. » Y
July 2.—The canoe, which was ordered to be
built for our use, was finished. As it was con-
structed after the manner, which has been ac-
curately described by Hearne, and several of the
American travellers, a detail of the process will
be unnecessary. Its extreme length was thirty-
two feet six inches, including the bow and stern
pieces, its greatest breadth was four feet ten
i , but it was only two feet nine inches for-
ward where the bowman sat, and two feet four

254 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

inches behind where the steersman was placed;
and its depth was one foot eleven and a quarter
inches. There were seventy-three hoops of thin
cedar, and a layer of slender laths of the same
wood within the frame. These feeble vessels of
bark will carry twenty-five pieces of goods, each
weighing ninety pounds, exclusive of the neces-
sary provision and baggage for the crew of five
or six men, amounting in the whole to about
three thousand three hundred pounds’ weight.
This great lading they annually carry between
the depéts and the posts, in the interior ; and it
rarely happens that any accidents occur, if they
are managed by experienced bowmen and steers-
men, on whose skill the safety of the canoe
entirely depends in the rapids and difficult places.
When a total portage is made, these two men
carry the canoe, and they often run with it,
though its weight is estimated at about three
hundred pounds, exclusive of the poles and oats,
which are occasionally left in where the distance
is short. i

On the 5th, we made an excursion for the pul
pose of trying our canoe. A heavy gale came on
in the evening, which caused a great swell in the
lake, and in crossing these waves we had the
satisfaction to find that our birchen vessel proved
an excellent sea-boat. veil

OF THE POLAR SEA. 256

July '7.—This morning some men, and _ their
families, who had been sent off to search for
Indians, with whom they intended to pass the
summer, returned to the fort in consequence of a
serious. accident having befallen their canoe in
the Red Deer River: when they were in the act
of hauling up a strong rapid, the line broke, the
canoe was overturned, and two of the party nar-
rowly escaped drowning ; fortunately the women
and children happened to be on shore, or, in all
probability, they would have perished in the con-
fusion of the scene. . Nearly all their stores, their
guns, and fishing-nets, were lost, and they could
not procure any other food for the last four a
than some unripe berries.

Some gentlemen arrived in the evening with a
party of Chipewyan Indians, from Hay River, a
post between the Peace River, and the Great
Slave Lake. These men gave distressing ac-
counts of sickness among their relatives, and the
Indians..in general along the Peace River, and
they said many of thenr have died. The disease
was described as dysentery. On the 10th and
llth we had very sultry weather, and were
dreadfully tormented by musquitoes. The high-
est temperature was 73°.

July 13.—This morning Mr. Back and I had
the sincere gratification of welcoming our long-

256 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

separated friends, Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood,
who arrived in perfect health with two canoes,
having made a very expeditious journey from
Cumberland, notwithstanding they were detained
near three days in consequence of the melancholy
loss of one of their bowmen, by the upsetting of a
Canoe in a strong rapid; but, as the occurrences
of this journey, together with the mention of some
other circumstances that happened previous to
their departure from Cumberland, which have
been extracted from Mr. Hood’s narrative, will
appear in the following chapter, it will be un-
necessary to enter farther into these points now. —
The zeal and talent displayed by Dr. Richard-
son and Mr. Hood, in the discharge of theif
several duties, since my separation from them,
drew forth my highest approbation. These get
tlemen had brought all the stores they could pro-
cure from the establishments at Cumberland and
Isle 4 la Crosse ; and at the latter place they had
received ten bags of pemmican from the North-
West Company, which proved to be mouldy, and
so totally unfit for use, that it was left at the
, Methye Portage. They got none from the Hud-
_ Son’s Bay Post. The voyagers belonging to that
Company, being destitute of provision, had eate?

what was intended for us. In consequence of

these untoward circumstances, the canoes arrived

=

<

OF THE POLAR SEA. 257

with only one day’s supply of this most essential
article. The prospect of having to commence our
journey from hence, almost destitute of provision,
and scantily supplied with stores, was distressing
to us, and very discouraging tothe men. It was
evident, however, that any unnecessary delay
here would have been very imprudent, as Fort
Chipewyan did not, at the present time, furnish
the means of subsistence for so large a party,
much less was there a prospect of our receiving any
supply to carry us forward. We, therefore, hast-
ened to make the necessary arrangements for our
speedy departure. All the stores were demanded
that could possibly be spared from both the esta-
blishments ; and we rejoiced to find, that when
this collection was added to the articles that had
been brought up by the canoes, that we had a
sufficient quantity of clothing for the equipment
of the men who had been engaged here, as well
as to furnish a present to the Indians, besides
some few goods for the winter’s consumption ;
but we could not procure any ammunition, which
was the most essential article, or spirits, and but
little tobacco.

We then made a final arrangement respecting
the voyagers, who were to accompany the party ;
and, fortunately, there was no difficulty in one

Vor, I.

OL,

258 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

this, as Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken
the very judicious precaution of bringing up ten
men from Cumberland, who were engaged to
proceed forward if their services were required.
The Canadians, whom they brought, were most
desirous of being continued, and we felt sincere
pleasure in being able to keep men who were so
zealous in the cause, and who had given proofs of
their activity on their recent passage to this place,
by discharging those men who were less willing
to undertake the journey; of these, three were
Englishmen, one American, and three Canadians.
When the numbers were completed, which we
had been recommended by the traders to take as
a protection against the Esquimaux, we had six-
teen Canadian-voyagers, and our worthy and only ©
English attendant John Hepburn, besides the two
interpreters whom we were to receive at the
Great Slave Lake; we were also accompanied
by a Chipewyan woman. An equipment of
goods was given to each of the men who had
been engaged at this place, similar to what had
been furnished to the others at Cumberland ; and
when this distribution had been made, the fe-
mainder were made up into bales, preparatory t0
our departure, on the following day. We wefe
cheerfully assisted in these and all our occupa

OF THE POLAR SEA. 259

tions by Mr. Smith, who evinced an anxious
desire to supply our wants as far as his means
permitted.

Mr. Hood haying brought up the dipping
needle from Cumberland House, we ascertained
the dip to be 85° 23’ 42”, and the difference pro-
- duced by reversing the face of the instrument
was 6° 2’ 10’. The intensity of the magnetic
force was also observed. Several observations
had been procured on both sides of the moon
during our residence at Fort Chipewyan, the
result of which gave for its longitude 111° 18' 20”
W., its latitude was observed to be 58° 42’ 38” N.,
and the variation of the compass 22° 49’ 32” E.
Fresh rates were procured for the chronometers
and their errors determined for Greenwich time,
by which the survey to the northward was car-

ried on.
- ae

260 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER VI.

Mr. Hood's Journey to the Basquiau Hill—Sojourns with an Indian
arty—His Journey to Chipewyan.

March. BEING desirous of obtaining a drawing of
a moose-deer, and also of making some observa-
tions on the height of the Aurora, I set out on the
23rd, to pass a few days at the Basquiau Hill.
Two men accompanied me, with dogs and sledges,
who were going to the hill for meat. We found the
Saskatchawan open, and were obliged to follow
it several miles to the eastward. We did not,
then, cross it without wading in water, which
had overflowed the ice; and our snow

were encumbered with a heavy weight for the
remainder of the day. On the south bank of the
Saskatchawan were some poplars ten or twelve
feet in circumference at the root. Beyond
river, we traversed an extensive swamp, bo

by woods. In the evening we crossed the Swat
Lake, about six miles in breadth, and eight i
length, and halted on its south side for the night
twenty-four miles S.S.W. of Cumberland House.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 261

At four in the morning of the 24th we con-

tinued the journey, and crossed some creeks in
the woods, and another large swamp. These
Swamps are covered with water in summer, to
the depth of several feet, which arises from the
melted snow from the higher grounds. The
tracts of foxes, wolves, wolverenes, and martens,
were very numerous. The people, employed in
carrying meat, set traps on their way out, and
take possession of their captures at their return,
for which they receive a sum from the Compents
‘ proportioned to the value of the fur.
_ In the evening we crossed the Goose Lake,
which is a little longer than Swan Lake, and
afterwards the River Sepanach, a branch of the
Saskatchawan, forming an island extending thirty
miles above, and forty below Cumberland House.
We turned to the westward on the Root River,
which enters the Sepanach, and halted on its
banks, having made in direct distance not more
than twenty miles since the 23rd. .

We passed the Shoal Lake on the 25th, and
then marched twelve miles through woods and
swamps to a hunting tent of the Indians. It was
situated in a grove of large poplars, and would
have been no unpleasant residence if we could
have avoided the smoke. A heavy gale from the
westward, with snow, confined us for several

262 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

days to this tent. On the 30th two Indians
arrived, one of whom named the Warrior, was
well known at the house. We endeavoured to
prevail upon them to set out in quest of moose,
which they agreed to do on receiving some rum.
Promises were of no avail; the smallest present
gratification is preferred to the certainty of ample
reward at another period; an unfailing indication
of strong animal passions, and a weak under-
standing. On complying with their demand they
departed.

The next day, I went to the Warrior's tent,
distant about eleven miles. The country was
materially changed: the pine had disappeared,
and gentle slopes, with clumps of large poplars, —
formed some pleasing groups; willows were scat-
tered over the swamps. When I entered the
tent, the Indians spread a buffalo robe before the
fire, and desired me to sit down» Some were
eating, others sleeping, many of them without any
covering except the breech cloth and a blanket
over the shoulders ; a state in which they love
indulge themselves till hunger drives them forth
to the chase. Besides the Warrior's family, there
was that of another hunter named Long-leg®,
whose bad success in hunting had reduced him —
to the necessity of feeding on moose leather for
three weeks, when he was compassionately '®

OF THE POLAR SEA. 263

lieved by the Warrior. I was an unwilling wit-
ness of the preparation of my dinner by the Indian
women. They cut into pieces a portion of fat
meat, using for that purpose a knife and their
teeth. It was boiled in a kettle, and served in a
platter made of birch bark, from which, being
dirty, they had peeled the surface. However,
the flavour of good moose meat will survive any
process that it undergoes in their hands, except
smoking.

Having provided myself with some drawing
materials, I amused the Indians with a sketch of
the interior of the tent and its inhabitants. ~

oa old woman, who was relating with great volubility

an account of some quarrel with the traders at
Cumberland House, broke off from her narration
when she perceived my design; supposing, per-
haps, that I was employing some charm against
her; for the Indians have been taught a super-
natural dread of particular pictures. One of the
young men drew, with a piece of charcoal, a figure
resembling a frog, on the side of the tent, and by
_ significantly pointing at me, excited peals of mer-
riment from his companions. The caricature was
comic; but I soon fixed their attention, by pro-
ducing my pocket compass, and affecting it with
a knife, They have great curiosity, which might
easily be directed to the attainment of useful

24 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

knowledge. As the dirt accumulated about these
people was visibly of a communicative nature, I
removed at night into the open air, where the
thermometer fell to 15° below zero, although it
was the next day 60° above it.

In the morning the Warrior and his companion
arrived ; I found that, instead of hunting, they
had passed the whole time in a drunken fit, at a
short distance from the tent. In reply to our
angry questions, the Warrior held out an empty
vessel, as if to demand the payment of a debt,
before he entered into any new negotiation. Not
being inclined to starve his family, we set out for i
another Indian tent, ten miles to the southward,
but we found only the frame, or tent poles, stand-
ing, when we reached the spot. The men, by
digging where the fire-place had been, asce!-
tained that the Indians had quitted it the day
before ; and as their marches are short, when
encumbered with the women and baggage, we
sought out their track, and followed it. At an
abrupt angle of it, which was obscured by trees,
the men suddenly disappeared ; and, hastening
forward to discover the cause, I perceived them
both still rolling at the foot of a steepght over
which they had been dragged while endeavouring
to stop the descent of their sledges. The dogs
were gazing silently, with the wreck of theit .

OF THE POLAR SEA. 965

harness about them, and the sledges deeply
buried in the snow. The effects of this accident
did not detain us long, and we proceeded. after-
wards with greater caution.

The air was warm at noon, and the solitary
but sweet notes of the jay, the earliest spring
bird were in every wood. Late in the evening
we descried the ravens wheeling in circles round
a small grove of poplars, and, according to our
expectations, found the Indians encamped there.
The men were absent hunting, and returned
unsuccessful. They had been several re

depend upon the continuance of their exertions,
I gave them a little rum; the next day they set
out, and at midnight they swept by us with their
dogs in close pursuit.

In the morning we found that a moose had
eaten the bark of a tree near our fire. The
hunters, however, again failed; and they attri-
buted. the extreme difficulty of approaching the
chase, to the calmness of the weather, which
enabled it to hear them at a great distance.

They concluded, as usual, when labouring
y affliction, that they were tormented
; ‘spirit; and assembled to beat a large
tambourine, and sing an address to the manito,
or deity, praying for relief, according to the

266 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

explanation which I received ; but their prayer
consisted of only three words, constantly repeated.
One of the hunters yet remained abroad ; and as
the wind rose at noon, we had hopes that he was
successful. In the evening he made his appear-
ance, and announcing that he had killed a large
moose, immediately secured the reward which
had been promised. 7

The tidings were received with apparent in-
difference, by people whose lives are alternate
changes from the extremity of want to abundance.
But as their countenances seldom betray their
emotions, it cannot be determined whether their
apathy is real or affected. However, the women
prepared their sledges and dogs, with the design
of dismembering, and bringing home, the carcass:
a proceeding to which, in their necessitous con-
dition, I could have had neither reasonable nor
available objections, without giving them a sub-
stitute. By much solicitation I obtained al
audience, and offered them our own provisions,
on condition of their suspending the work of
destruction till the next day. They agreed to
the proposition, and we set out with some In-
dians for the place where the animal was lying.
The night advancing, we were separated by a
snow-storm, and not being skilful enough to
follow tracks which were so speedily filled up,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 267

I was bewildered for several hours in the woods,
when I met with an Indian, who led me back at
such a pace that I was always in the rear, to his
infinite diversion. The Indians are vain of their
local knowledge, which is certainly very wonder-
ful. Our companions had taken out the entrails
and young of the moose, which they buried in
the snow.

The Indians then returned to the tents, and
one of my men accompanied them; he was the
person charged with the management of the trade
at the hunting tent; and he observed, that the
opportunity of making a bargain with the Indians,
while they were drinking, was too advantageous
to be lost.

It remained for us to prevent the wolves from
mangling the moose; for which purpose we
wrapped ourselves in blankets between its feet,
and placed the hatches within our reach. The
night was stormy, and apprehension kept me
long awake ; but finding my companion in so
deep a sleep, that nothing could have roused
him, except the actual gripe of a wolf, I
thought it advisable to imitate his example, as
much as was in my power, rather than bear the
purthen of anxiety alone. At day-light we shook
off the snow, which was heaped upon us, and
endeavoured to kindle a fire ; but the violence of

268 - JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the storm defeated all our attempts. At length
two Indians arrived, with whose assistance we
succeeded, and they took possession of it, to
show their sense of our obligations to them. We .
were ashamed of the scene before us ; the en-
trails of the moose and its young, which had been
buried at our feet, bore testimony to the nocturnal
revel of the wolves, during the time we had slept.
This was a fresh subject of derision for the In-
dians, whose appetites, however, would not suffer
them to waste long upon us a time so precious.
They soon finished what the wolves had begun,
and with as little aid from the art of cookery,
eating both the young moose, and the cone of
the paunch, raw.

I had scarcely secured myself by a ioied of
branches from the snow, and placed the moose in
a position for my sketch, when we were stormed
by a troop of women and children, with their
sledges and dogs. We obtained another short
respite from the Indians, but our blows could not
drive, nor their caresses entice, the hungry dogs
from the tempting feast before them.

I had not finished my sketch; before the impa-
tient crowd tore the moose to pieces, and loaded
their sledges with meat. On our way to the tent,
a black wolf rushed out upon an Indian, who
happened to pass near its den. It was shot;

OF THE POLAR SEA. 269

and the Indians carried away three black whelps,
to improve the breed of their dogs. I purchased
one of them, intending to send it to England, but
it perished for want of proper nourishment.
The latitude of these tents, was 53° 12’ 46” N.,
and longitude by chronometers 103° 13’ 10” W.
On the 5th of April we set out for the hunting
tent by our former track, and arrived there in
the evening.

As the increasing warmth of the weather had
threatened to interrupt communication by re-
ape the ice, orders had been, sent from Cum-

berl House #7, +h nannil + +. 40) 7971+ it

without delay ; which’ we did on the 7th.. Some
altitudes of the Aurora were obtained. :

We had a fine view, at sunrise, of the Bas-
quiau Hill, skirting half the horizon with its
white sides, chequered by forests of pine. It is
seen from Pine Island Lake, at the distance of
fifty miles; and cannot, therefore, be less than
three-fourths of a mile in perpendicular height ;
probably the greatest elevation between the
~ Atlantic Ocean, and the Rocky Mountains.

_A small stream runs near the hunting tent,
strongly impregnated with salt. There are several
salt springs about it, which are not frozen during
the winter.

270 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The surface of the snow, thawing in the sun,
and freezing at night, had become a strong crust,
which sometimes gave way in a circle round our
feet, immerging us in the soft snow beneath.
The people were afflicted with snow blindness ;
a kind of ophthalmia occasioned by the reflection
of the sun’s rays in the spring.

The miseries endured during the first journey of
this nature, are so great, that nothing could induce
the sufferer to undertake a second, while under
the influence of present pain. He feels his frame
crushed by unaccountable pressure, he drags a
galling and stubborn weight at his feet, and his
track is marked with blood. The dazzling scene
around him affords no rest to his eye, no object
to divert his attention from his own agonizing
sensations. When he arises from sleep, half his
body seems dead, till quickened into feeling by
the irritation of his sores. But, fortunately for
him, no evil makes an impression so evanescent
as pain. It cannot be wholly banished, nor re-
called with the force of reality, by any act of the
mind, either to affectour , or to sym-
pathize with another. The traveller soon forgets

his sufferings, and at every future journey their
recurrence is attended with diminished acuteness.

It was not before the 10th or 12th of April

OF THE POLAR SEA. 271

that the return of the swans, geese, and ducks,
gave certain indications of the advance of spring.
The juice of the maple tree began to flow, and
the women repaired to the woods for the purpose
of collecting it. This tree which abounds to the
southward, is not, I believe found to the north-
ward of the Saskatchawan. The Indians obtain
the sap by making incisions into the tree. They
boil it down, and evaporate the water, skimming
off the impurities. They are so fond of sweets,
that after this simple process, they set an extra-
Vagant price upon it. i
On the 15th fell the first shower of rain we
had seen for six months, and on the 17th the
thermometer rose to 77° in the shade. The
whole face of the country was deluged by the
melted snow. All the nameless heaps of dirt,
accumulated in the winter, now floated over the
very thresholds, and the long-imprisoned scents
dilated into vapours so penetrating, that no re-
treat was any security from them. The flood
descended into the cellar below our house, and
destroyed a quantity of powder and tea ; a loss
irreparable in our situation.
The noise made by the frogs which this inun-
dation produced, is almost incredible. There
is strong reason to believe that they outlive the
severity of winter. They have often been found

272 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

frozen and revived by warmth, nor is it possible
that the multitude which incessantly filled our
ears with its discordant notes could have been
matured in two or three days.

The fishermen at Beaver Lake, and the other
detached parties were ordered to return to the
post. The expedients to which the poor people
were reduced, to cross a country so beset with
waters, presented many uncouth spectacles.
The inexperienced were glad to compromise,
with the loss of property, for the safety of their
persons, and astride upon ill-balanced rafts with
which they struggled to be uppermost, exhibited
a ludicrous picture of distress. Happy were
those who could patch up an old canoe, though
obliged to bear it half the way on their shoulders,
through miry bogs and interwoven willows. But
the veteran trader, wedged in a box of skin, with
his wife, children, dogs, and furs, wheeled tt
umphantly through the current, and deposited his
heterogeneous cargo safely on the shore.
woods re-echoed with the return of their
tenants. An hundred tribes as gaily dressed as
any burnished natives of the south, greeted out
eyes in our accustomed walks, and their voices,
though unmusical, were the sweetest that eve
saluted our ears.

From the 19th to the 26th the snow once

OF THE POLAR SEA. 273

more blighted the resuscitating verdure, but a
single day was sufficient to remove it. On the
28th the Saskatchawan swept away the ice which
had adhered to its banks, and the next day a
boat came down from Carlton House with provi-
sions. We received such accounts of the state
of vegetation at that place, that Dr. Richardson
determined to visit it, in order to collect botani-
cal specimens, as the period at which the ice was
expected to admit of the continuation of our jour-
ney was still distant. Accordingly he embarked
on the Ist of May.

In the course of the ncaa the Go Braden
wore away from the south side ofthe lake, but the —
great mass of it still hung to the north side with
some snow visible on its surface. By the 21st the
elevated grounds were perfectly dry, and teeming
with the fragrant offspring of the season. When .
the snow melted, the earth was covered with the
fallen leaves of the last year, and already it was
green with the strawberry plant, and the bursting
buds of the gooseberry, raspberry, and rose
bushes, soon variegated by the rose and the
blossoms of the choke cherry. The gifts of na-
ture are disregarded and undervalued till they
are withdrawn, and in the hideous regions of the
Arctic Zone, she would make- a convert of him
for whom the gardens of Europe had no Bias

Vou. I.

274 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

or the mild beauties of a southern climate had
bloomed in vain. 2
_ Mr. Williams found a delightful occupation in
his agricultural pursuits. The horses were
brought to the plough, and fields of wheat, bar-
ley, and Indian corn, promised to reward his
labours. His dairy furnished us with all the
luxuries of an English farm.
On the 25th the ice departed from Pine Island
Lake. We were, however, informed that Beaver
Lake, which was likewise in our route, would
not afford a passage before the 4th of June. Ac
cording to directions left by Mr. Franklin, appli-
cations were made to the Chiefs of the Hudson's
Bay, and North-West Companies’ Posts, for two
canoes, with their crews, and a supply of stores,
for the use of the Expedition. They were not in
a condition to comply with this request till the
arrival of their respective returns from Isle 2 a
Crosse and the Saskatchawan Departments.
the six men whom we brought from England, the
most serviceable, John Hepburn, had accom:
panied Mr. Franklin, and only one other desired
to prosecute the journey with us. Mr, Frankdin
had made arrangements with Mr. Williams for the
employment of the remaining five men in bringing
to Cumberland House the ammunition, tobacco,
§c., left. at York Fort, which stores were, if pos

OF THE POLAR SEA. 275

sible, to be sent after usin the summer. Onthe
30th Dr. Richardson returned from Carlton
House, and on the 31st the boats arrived belong-
ing to the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Saskatcha-
wan Department. We obtained acanoe and two
more volunteers. On the Ist of June the Sas-
katchawan, swelled by the melting of the snow
near the Rocky Mountains, rose twelve feet, and
the current of the little rivers bounding Pine Island

ran back into the lake, which it filled with mud.
On the 5th the North-West Company’s peo-
ple arrived, and Mr. Conolly furnished us
with a canoe and five Canadians, They were
engaged to attend us till Mr. Franklin should
think fit to discharge them, and bound under the
usual penalties in case of disobedience, or other
improper conduct. These poor people enter-
tained such dread of a ship of war, that they sti-
pulated not to be embarked in Lieutenant Parry’s
vessels, if we should find them on the coast; a
condition with which they would gladly have
dispensed, had that desirable event taken place.
As we required a Canadian foreman and steers-
man for the other canoe, we were compelled to
wait for the appearance of the Isle a la Crosse

canoes under Mr. Clark.

- On the 8th Mr. Williams embarked for York
Fort. He gave us a circular letter addressed to”
T2

276 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the Chiefs of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Posts,
directing them to afford us all possible assistance
on our route, and he promised to exert. every
endeavour to forward the Esquimaux interpreter,
upon whom the success of our journey so much
depended. He was accompanied by eight boats.
With him we sent our collections of plants, mine-
rals, charts, and drawings, to be transmitted to
England by the Hudson’s Bay ships. After this
period, our detention, though short, cost us more
vexation than the whole time we had passed at
Cumberland House, because every hour of the
short summer was invaluable to us. On the 11th
Mr. Clark arrived, and completed: our crews.
—He brought letters from Mr. Franklin; dated
March 28th, at Fort Chipewyan, where he was
engaged procuring hunters and interpreters. A
heavy storm of wind and rain from the north-
east again delayed: us till the morning of the
13th. The account we had received at York
Factory of the numerous stores at Cumberland
House proved to be very erroneous. The most
material: stores we received did not’ amount, in
addition to our own, to more than two barrels ¢
powder, a keg of spirits, and two pieces’ -of
tobacco, with pemmican for sixteen days.
ae aa of Dr. Richardson's canoe consisted
apery eet ‘and three Canadians, and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 277

the other carried five Canadians; both were
deeply laden, and the waves ran high on the lake.
No person in our party being well acquainted
with the rivers to the northward, Mr. Conolly
gave us a pilot, on condition that we should ex-
change him when we met with the Athabasca
brigade of canoes. At four A.M. we embarked.
We soon found that birchen-bark canoes were
not calculated to brave rough weather on a large
lake, for we were compelled to land on the oppo-
site border, to free them from the water which.
had already saturated their cargoes. The wind
became more moderate, and we were enabled,
after traversing a chain of smaller lakes, to enter
the mouth of the Sturgeon River, at sunset,
where we encamped. |
The lading of the canoes is always, if possi-
ble, carried on shore at night, and the canoes
taken out of the water. The following evening
we reached Beaver Lake, and landed to repair
some damages sustained by the canoes. A round
stone will displace the lading of a canoe, without
doing any injury, but a slight blow against a
sharp corner penetrates the bark. For the pur-
pose of repairing it, a small quantity of gum or
pitch, bark and pine rootes, are embarked, and
the business is so expeditiously performed, that
the speed of the canoe amply compensates for
every delay. The Sturgeon River is justly called

278 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

by the Canadians La Riviére Maligne, from its
numerous and dangerous rapids. Against the
Strength of a rapid it is impossible to effect any
progress by paddling, and the canoes are tracked,
or if the bank will not admit of it, propelled with
poles, in the management of which the Cana-
dians shew great dexterity. Their simultaneous
motions were strongly contrasted with the awk-
ward confusion of the inexperienced Englishmen,
deafened by the torrent, who sustained the blame
of every accident which occurred.

At sunset we encamped on an island in Beaver
Lake, and at four A.M., the next morning, pass-
ed the first portage in the Ridge River. Beaver
Lake is twelve miles in length, and six in breadth.
The flat limestone country rises into bold rocks 00
its banks, and at the mouth of the Ridge River, the
limestone discontinues. The lake is very deep,
and has already been noticed for the number and
excellence of its fish. The Ridge River is rapid
and shallow. We had emerged from the muddy
channels through an alluvial soil, and the primi-
tive rocks interrupted our way with frequent
portages, through the whole route to Isle 4 [a
Crosse Lake. At two P.M. we passed the mouth
of the Hay River, running from the westward ;
and the ridge above its confluence takes the name
of the Great River, which rises at the height of
land called the Frog Portage.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 279

The thermometer was this day 100° in the sun,
and the heat was extremely oppressive, from our
constant exposure to it. We crossed three port-
ages in the Great River, and encamped at the
last ; here we met the director of the North-West
Company’s affairs in the north, Mr. Stuart, on
his way to Fort William, in a light canoe. He
had left the Athabasca Lake only thirteen days,
and brought letters from Mr. Franklin, who de-
sired that we would endeavour to collect stores
of every kind at Isle 4 la Crosse, and ‘added a
favourable account of the country, to the north-
ward of the Slave Lake.

On the 16th, at three A.M., we continued. our
course, the river increasing to the breadth of half
a mile, with many rapids between the rocky
islands. The banks were luxuriantly clothed
with pines, poplars, and birch trees, of the largest
size ; but the different shades of green were un-
distinguishable at a distance, and the glow of
autumnal colours was wanting to render the va-
riety beautiful.

Having crossed two portages at the different
extremities of the Island Lake, we ran through
two extensive sheets of water under sail, called
the Heron and Pelican Lakes; the former of
whi is fifteen miles in length, and the latter
five ; but its extent to the southward has not been

230 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

explored. An intricate channel, with four siiall
portages, conducted us to the Woody Lake. Its
borders were, indeed, walls of pines, hiding the
face of steep and high rocks ; and we wandered
in-search of a landing-place till ten P.M.; when
we were forced to take shelter from an impend-
ing storm, on a small island, where we wedged
ourselves between the trees. But though we se-
cured the canoes, we incurred a personal evil of
much greater magnitude, in the torments inflicted
by the musquitoes, a plague which had grown
upon us since our departure from Cumberland
House, and which infested us during the whole
summer; we found no relief from their attacks
by exposing ourselves to the utmost violence of
the wind and rain. Our last resource was to
plunge ourselves in the water, and from this un-
comfortable situation we gladly escaped at day-
light, and hoisted our sails.

The Woody Lake is thirteen miles in length,
and a small grassy channel at: its north-western
extremity, leads to the Frog Portage, the source
of the waters descending by Beaver Lake to the
Saskatchawan.’ The distance to the Missinippi,
or Churchill River, is only thrée hundred and
eighty yards ; and as its course crosses the height
nearly at right angles to the direction of the Great

ver, it would be superfluous to compute the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 281

elevation at this place. The portage is in lati-
tude 55° 26’ 0” N., and longitude 103° 34’ 50”
W. Its name, according to Sir Alexander Mack-
enzie, is derived from the Crees having left sus-
pended a stretched frog’s skin, in deriat@in of the
Northern Indian mode of dressing the beaver.

The part of the Missinippi, in which we em-
barked, we should have mistaken for a lake, had
it not been for the rapidity of the current against
which we made our way. At four P.M. we passed
along portage, occasioned by a ledge of rocks,
three hundred yards in length, over which the
river falls seven or eight feet. After crossing
another portage we encamped.

~ On the 18th we had rain, wine std thunder,
the whole day ; but this weather was much pre-
ferable to the heat we had borne hitherto. We
passed three portages, and, at six P.M., en-
camped on the north bank. Below the third
portage is the mouth of the Rapid River, flowing
froma large lake to the southward, on which a
post was formerly maintained by the North-West
Company. Next morning we found ourselves
involved in a confused mass of islands, through
the openings of which we could not discern the
shore.» The guide’s knowledge of the river did
not extend beyond the last portage, and our per-
plexity continued, till we observed some foam

282 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

floating on the water, and took the direction from
which it came. The noise of a heavy fall, at the
Mountain Portage, reached our ears, at the dis-
tance of four miles, and we arrived there at eight
A.M. The portage was a difficult ascent over a
rocky islarid, between which and the main shore
were two cataracts, and a third in sight above
them, making another portage. We surprised a
large brown bear, which immediately retreated
intothe woods. To the northward of the second
portage we again found the channels intricate,
but the shores being sometimes visible we ven-
tured to proceed. The character of the country
_ Was new, and more interesting than before. The
mountainous and strong elevations receded from
the banks, and the woods crept through their
breaches to the valleys behind; the adventurous
pine alone ascending their bases, and braving
Storms unfelt below.

‘Overset and swept away by the current. An
account of this misfortune was speedily conveyed

it. The descent was quickly accomplished, and
they perceived the bottom of the lost canoe above
water in a little bay, whither it had been whirled
by the eddy. One man had reached the bank,
but no traces could be found of the foreman,
Louis Saint Jean. We saved the canoe, out of
which two guns and a case of preserved meats
had been thrown into the rapid*. So early a

sity of procuring a guide, determined us to wait
for the arrival of the North-West Company's

but as the gun wales were

it. In the evening a N. W. canoe ar-
rived, with two of the partners. They gave us
an account of Mr. Franklin's proceedings, and
A Bf te ie
se et Nm ee th
- qqnpanines De. Ricuanneon's Journal.

234 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

referred us to the brigade following them for a
guide. |

During the 20th it rained heavily, and we
passed the day in anxious suspense confined to
our tents. A black bear came to the bank onthe
opposite side of the river, and on Seelng us,
glided behind the trees.

Late on the 21st, Mr. Robertson, of the Hud-
son’s Bay Company arrived, and furnished us
- With a guide, but desired that he might be ex-
changed when we met the northern canoes. We
took advantage of the remainder of the day, to
cross the next portage, which was three-fourths
of a mile in length, ies

On the 22nd we crossed three gmall portages,
and encamped at the fourth. At one of them we
passed some of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s
canoes, and our application to them was unsuc-
cessful. We began to suspect that Isle dla
Crosse was the nearest place at which we might
hope for assistance. However, on the morning
of the 23rd, as we were about to embark, we en-.
countered the last brigades of canoes belonging
to both the Companies, and obtained a guide and
foreman from them. Thus completely equipped,
we entered the Black Bear Island Lake, the
Navigation of which requires a very experienced
Pilot. Its length is twenty-two miles, and its.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 285

breadth varies from three to five, yet it is so
choaked with islands, that no channel is to be
found through it, exceeding a mile in breadth.
At sunset we landed, and encamped on an
island, and. at six A.M. on the 24th, left the
lake and crossed three portages into another,
which has, probably, several communications
with the last, as that by which we passed is
too narrow to convey the whole body of the Mis-
sinippi. At one of these portages called the
Pin Portage is a rapid, about ten yards in length,
with a descent of ten or twelve feet, and beset
with rocks. Light canoes sometimes venture
down this fatal gulf; to avoid the portage, un-
appalled by the warning crosses which overhang
the brink, the mournful records of former failures.

The Hudson’s Bay Company’s people whom
we passed on the 23rd, going to the rock house
with their furs, were badly provided with food,
of which we saw distressing proofs at every
portage behind them. They had stripped the
birch trees of their rind to procure the soft pulpy
vessels in- contact with the wood, which are
sweet, but pag He insufficient to satisfy a craving

ite.

ieThe lake to the euneen of the Pin Portage,
is called’ Sandfly Lake; it is seven miles long;
and a wide channel connects it with the Serpent

286 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Lake, the extent of which to the southward we
could not discern. There is nothing remarkable
in this chain of lakes, except their shapes being
rocky basins filled by the waters of the Missi-
nippi, insulating the massy eminences, and mean-
ing with almost imperceptible current between
them. From the Serpent to the Sandy Lake, it
is again confined in a narrow space by the ap-
proach of its winding banks, and on the 26th we
were some hours employed in traversing a series
of shallow rapids, where it was necessary to
lighten the canoes. Having missed the path
through the woods, we walked two miles in the
water upon sharp stones, from which some person
was incessantly slipping into deep holes, and
floundering in vain for footing at the bottom ; a
scene highly diverting, notwithstanding our fa-
tigue, We were detained in Sandy Lake, till
one P, M., by a strong gale, when the wind be-
coming moderate we crossed five miles to the
mouth of the river, and at four P. M. left the main
branch of it, and entered a little rivulet called
the Grassy River, running through an extensive
reedy swamp. It is the nest of innumerable
ducks, which rear their young, among the long "
Tushes, in security ftom beasts of prey. At —
_ Sunset we encamped on the banks of the main

OF THE POLAR SEA. 287

At three A. M. June 28th, we embarked in a
thick fog occasioned by a fall of the temperature
of the air ten degrees below that of the water.
Having crossed Knee Lake, which is nine miles
in length, and a portage at its western extremity,
we entered Primeau Lake, with a strong and
favourable wind, by the aid of which we. ran
nineteen miles through it, and encamped at the
river’s mouth. It is shaped like the barb of an
arrow, with the point towards the north, and its
greatest breadth is about four miles.

thunder I ever heard. This weather continued
during the 29th, and often compelled us to land,
and turn the canoes up, to prevent them from
filling. We passed one portage, and the con-
fluence of a river, said to afford, by other rivers
beyond a height of land, a shorter but more diffi-
~ eult route to the Athabasca Lake than that which
is generally pursued. |
On the 28th we crossed the lest portage, and
at ten A. M. entered the Isle 4 la Crosse Lake.
Its long succession of woody points, both banks
stretching towards the south, till their forms were
~ lost in the haze of the horizon, was a grateful
prospect to us, after our bewildered and inter-
tupted voyage in the Missinippi. The gale

258 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

wafted us with unusual speed, and as the lake
increased in breadth, the waves swelled to a
dangerous height. A canoe running before the
wind is very liable to burst asunder, when on the
top of a wave, so that part of the bottom is out of
the water; for there is nothing to support the
weight of its heavy cargo but the bark, and the
slight gunwales attached to it.

On making known our exigencies to the gen-
tlemen in charge of the Hudson’s Bay and North
West Companies’ Forts, they made up an assort-
ment of stores, amounting to five bales; for fout
of which we were indebted to Mr. Mac Leod of
the North West Company, who shared with us
the ammunition absolutely required for the sup-
port of his post ; receiving in exchange an order
for the same quantity upon the-cargo’ which we
expected to follow us from York Factory. -We
had heard from Mr. Stuart that Fort Chipewyan
was too much impoverished to supply the wants
of the Expedition, and we found Isle a:la Crosse
in the same condition; which, indeed, we might
have fc , from the exhausted state of Cumber-
land House, but could not have provided against.
We never had heard before our departure from
York, that the posts in the interior only received
annually the stores necessary for the consumption
of a single year. It was fortunate for us that

OF THE POLAR SEA. 289

Mr. Franklin had desired ten bags of pemmican
to be sent from the Saskatchawan across the
plains to Isle a la Crosse for our use. This re-
source was untouched, but we could not embark
more than five pieces in ourowncanoes. However,
Mr. Mac Leod agreed to send a canoe after us
to the Methye Portage, with the pemmican, and
we. calculated that the diminution of our pro-
vision would there enable us to receive it.

The Beaver River enters this lake on the S.E.
side, and another river which has not been named,
on the S.W. Both these rivers are branches of
the Missinippi, as it is the only outlet from the
lake. The banks appeared to be rocky, and the
beach in many places sandy, but its waters are
yellow and muddy. It produces a variety of
fish, among which its white fish are esteemed the
best in the country. The only birds visible at
this season, are common to every part of the
Missinippi; gulls, ducks, pigeons, goatsuckers,
and the raven; and geese and swans pay a
momentary visit in passing to the north and
Teturning.

There was little in the forts differing from the
establishments that we had before seen, The
_ ground on which they are erected is sandy, and
favourable to cultivation. Curiosity, however,
Was satisfied by the first experiment, and utility

Vou. I. U

290 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

alone has been unable to extend it. Isle Ala
Crosse is frequented by the Crees and the
Chipewyans. It is not the dread of the Indians,
but of one another, that has brought the rival
Companies so close together at every trading
post; each party seeking to prevent the other
from engaging the affections of the natives, and
monopolizing the trade. Whenever a settlement
is made by the one, the other immediately fol-
lows, without considering the eligibility of the
place; for it may injure its opponent, though it
cannot benefit itself, which is the first object of
all other commercial bodies, but the second of
the fur traders.

On the evening of the 30th we embarked, and
entered a wide channel to the northward of the
forts, and extending towards the north-west. It
gradually decreased in breadth till it became a
tiver, which is the third fork of the Missinippi,
and its current being almost insensible, we en-
tered the clear lake at ten A.M. on the Ist of
July. Of this lake, which is very large, no part
is known except the south border, but its extent
would lead us to conclude, that its evaporation
must be supplied by another ‘river to the north-
ward, especially as the small channel that com-
Taunicates with Buffalo Lake is motionless. The
existence of such a Tiver is asserted by the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 291

Indians, and a shorter passage might be found by
It across the height of land to Clear Water River,
than the portage from the Methye Lake.

In Buffalo Lake, the wind was too strong for
us to proceed, and we therefore encamped upon a
gravel beach thrown up by the waves. We
embarked at three A.M. July 2d, and at four
P.M. entered the mouth of the Methye River.
The lake is thirty-four miles in length, and four-
teen in breadth. It is probably very deep, for
we saw no islands in this wide expanse, except
at the borders. On the south-west side were two
forts, belonging to the Companies, and near
them a solitary hill seven or eight hundred feet
high. At eight P.M. we encamped in the Meythe
River, at the confluence of the river Pembina. A
route has been explored by it 'to the Red Willow
River, across the height of land, but the difficul-
ties of it were so great, that the ordinary route is
preferred. e

On the 3d we passed through the Methye
River, and encamped on the borders of the
Methye Lake. ‘The soil from Isle 4 la Crosse
to this place is sandy, with some portion of clay,

miles. The paths were overflowed with cold
U2

292 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

spring water, and barricadoed by fallen trees;
we should have been contented to immerse our-
selves wholly had the puddle been sufficiently
deep, for the musquitoes devoured every part
that was exposed to them.

On the 4th we crossed the Methye Lake, and
landed at the portage on the north-west side, in
one of the sources of the Misinippi. The lake
is seventeen miles in length, with a large island
in the middle. We proceeded to the north side

of the portage with two men, carrying a tent and 4

Some instruments, leaving the canoes and cargoes
to be transported by daily journeys of two or
three miles. The distance is fourteen statute
miles, and there are two small lakes about five
miles from the north side. Several species of
fish were found in them, though they have no
known communication with any other body of
water, being situated on the elevation of the
height. The road was a gentle ascent, miry
from the late rainy weather, and shaded by pines,
poplars, birches, and cypresses, which terminated
‘our view. On the north side we discovered
through an opening in the trees, that we were on
a hill eight or nine hundred feet high, and at the
edge of a steep descent. We were prepared to
expect an extensive prospect, but the magnifice

scene before us was so superior to what the nature

‘

OF THE POLAR SEA. 293

of the country had promised, that it banished even
our sense of suffering from the musquitoes, which
hovered in clouds about our heads. Two parallel
chains of hills extended towards the setting sun,
their various projecting outlines exhibiting the
several gradations of distance, and the opposite
bases closing at the horizon. On the nearest
eminence, the objects were clearly defined by
their dark shadows; the yellow rays blended
_ their softening hues with brilliant green on the
- next, and beyond it all distinction melted into
gray and purple. In the long valley between,
the smooth and colourless Clear Water River
wound its spiral course, broken and shattered by
encroaching woods. An exuberance of rich
herbage covered the soil, and lofty trees climbed
the precipice at our feet, hiding its brink with
their summits. Impatient as we were, and
blinded with pain, we paid a tribute of admira-
tion, which this beautiful landscape is capable of
exciting, unaided by the borrowed charms of a
calm atmosphere, glowing with the vivid tints of
evening.

We descended to the banks of the Clear Water
River, and having encamped, the two men re-
umed to assist their companions. We had some-
~ times before procured a little rest, by closing the
tent, and burning wood, or flashing gunpowder

294 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

within, the smoke driving the musquitoes into the
crannies of the ground, But this remedy was
now ineffectual, though we employed it so perse-
veringly, as to hazard suffocation: they swarmed
under our blankets, goring us with their enve-
nomed trunks, and steeping our clothes in blood.
We rose at day-light in a fever, and our misery
was unmitigated during our whole stay.
__ The musquitoes of America resemble, in shape,
those of Africa and Europe, but differ essentially
in size and other particulars. There are two
distinct species, the largest of which is brown,
and the smallest black. Where they are bred
cannot easily be determined, for they are nume-
rous in every soil. They make their first ap-
pearance in May, and the cold destroys them in
September ; in July they are most voracious;
and fortunately for the traders, the journeys from
the trading posts to the factories are generally
concluded at that period. The food of the mus-
quito is blood, which it can extract by penetrating
the hide of a buffalo ; and if it is not disturbed, it
gorges itself so as to swell its body into a trans-
parent globe. The wound does not swell, like
that of the African musquito, but it is infinitely
more painful; and when multiplied an hundred
fold, and continued for so many successive days,
it becomes an evil of such magnitude, that cold,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 295

famine, and every other concomitant of an inhos-
pitable climate, must yield the pre-eminence to it,
It chases the buffalo to the plains, irritating him
to madness; and the rein-deer to the sea-shore,
from which ian do not return till the scourge
has ceased.

On the 6th the thermometer was 106° in the
sun, and onthe 7th 110°. The musquitoes sought
the shade in the heat of the day. It was
some satisfaction to us to see the havoc made
among them by a large and beautiful species
of dragon-fly, called the musquito hawk. —
wheeled through their retreats, sv :
prey without-a momentary diminution of. .
speed. But the temporary relief that we had
hoped for was only an exchange of tormentors :
our new assailant, the horse-fly, or bull-dog,
ranged in the hottest glare of the sun, and carried
off a portion of flesh at each attack. Another
noxious insect, the smallest, but not the least for-
midable, was the sand-fly known in Canada by
the name of the brulot, To such annoyance all
travellers must submit, and it would be unworthy
to complain of that grievance in the pursuit of
knowledge, which is endured for. the sake of
profit. This detail of it has only been as an ex-
— cuse for the scantiness of our observations on the

296 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

most interesting part of the country through
which we passed.

The north side of the Methye Portage is inlati-
tude 56° 41’ 40” N. and longitude 109° 52 0” W.
It is, by our course, one hundred and twenty-four
miles from Isle 4 la Crosse, and considered as a
branch of the Missinippi, five hundred and
ninety-two miles from the Frog Portage. The
Clear Water-River passing through the valley,
described above, evidently rises not far to the
eastward. The height, computed by the same
mode as that of the Echiamamis, by allowing a
foot for each mile of distance, and six feet on an
average, for each fall and rapid, is two thousand
four hundred and sixty-seven feet above the level
of the sea, admitting it to be nine hundred feet
above the Clear Water River. The country, in
a line between it and the mouth of Mackenzie's
River, is a continual descent, although to the east-
ward of that line, there may be several heights
between it and the Arctic Sea. To the eastward,
the lands descend to Hudson’s Bay ; and to the
westward also, till the Athabasca River cuts
through it, from whence it ascends to the Rocky
Mountains. Daring was the spirit of enterprise
that first led Commerce, with her cumbrous train,
from the waters of Hudson’s Bay to those of the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 297

Arctic Sea, across an obstacle to navigation so
stupendous as this; and persevering has been
the industry which drew riches from a source so
remote,

On the 8th two men arrived, and informed us,
that they had brought us our ten bags of pemmi-
can, from Isle 4 la Crosse, but that they were
found to be rotten. Thus were we unexpectedly
deprived of the most essential of our stores, for
we knew Fort Chipewyan to be destitute of pro-
visions, and that Mr. Franklin depended upon us
for a supply, whereas, enough did not remain for
our own use. On the 9th, the canoes and car-
goes reached the north side of the portage. Our
people had selected two bags of pemmican less
mouldy than the rest, which they left on the
beach. Its decay was caused by some defect in
the mode of mixing it.

On the 10th, we embarked in the Clear Water
River ; and proceeded down the current. The
hills, the banks, and bed of the river, were com-
posed of fine yellow sand, with some limestone
rocks. The surface soil was alluvial. At eight
A.M. we passed a portage on which the limestone
rocks were singularly scattered through the woods,
bearing the appearance of houses and turrets
overgrown with moss. The earth emitted a hol-
low sound, and the river was divided by rocks,

298 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

into narrow crooked channels, every object indi-
cating that some convulsion had disturbed the
general order of nature at this place. We had

- passed a portage above it, and after two long por-
tages below it we encamped. Near the last was
a small stream so strongly impregnated with sul-
phur, as to taint the air to a great distance around
it, We saw two brown bears on the hills in the
course of the day.

At daylight, on the 11th, we embarked. The
hills continued on both sides to the mouth of the
river, varying from eight hundred to one thousand
feet in height. They declined to the banks in
long green slopes, diversified by woody mounds
and copses. The pines were not here in thick
impenetrable masses, but perched aloft in single
groups on the heights, or shrouded by the livelier
hues of the poplar and willow.

We passed the mouth of the Red Willow River
on the south bank, flowing through a deep ravine.
It is the continuation of the route by the Pembina,
before mentioned. At noon we entered the ma-
jestic Athabasca or Elk River. Its junction with
the Clear Water River is called the Forks, Its
banks were inaccessible cliffs, apparently of clay
and stones, about two hundred feet high, and its
windings in the south were encircled by high
mountains. Its breadth exceeded half a mile,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 299

oo was swelled to a mile in many places by
ng muddy islands in the middle covered with
trees. No more portages interrupted our course,
but a swift current hurried us towards the quarter
in which our anticipated discoveries were to com-
mence. The passing cliffs returned a loud con-
fusion of echoes to the sprightly canoe song, and
the dashing paddles ; and the eagles, watching
with half-closed eyes on the pine tops, started
from their airy rest, and prepared their drowsy
pinions for the flight.

About twenty miles from the Forks are some
salt pits and plains, said to be very extensive.
The height of the banks was reduced to twenty
or thirty feet, and the hills ranged themselves at
an increased distance from the banks in the same
variety as those of the Clear Water River. At
sunset we encamped on a small sandy island, but
the next morning made a speedy retreat to the
canoes, the water having nearly overflown our
encampment. We passed two deserted settle-
ments of the fur traders on opposite banks, at a
place called Pierre au Calumet. Beyond it the
hills disappeared, and the banks were no Jonger
visible above the trees. The river carries away
yearly large portions of soil, which increases its
breadth, and diminishes its depth, rendering the
water so muddy that it was scarcely drinkable.

390 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Whole forests of timber are drifted down the
stream, and choke up the channels between the
islands at its mouth. We observed the traces of
herds of buffaloes, where they had crossed the
river, the trees being trodden down and strewed,
as if by a whirlwind.

At four P.M. we left the main branch of the
Athabasca, entering a small river, called the
Embarras. It is narrow and muddy, with pines
of an enormous size on its banks. Some of them
are two hundred feet high, and three or four feet
in diameter. At nine P.M. we landed and en-
camped ; but finding ourselves in a nest of mus-
quitoes, we continued our journey before day-
break; and at eight A.M., emerged into the
Athabasca Lake. A strong wind agitated this
sea of fresh water, which, however, we crossed
without any accident, and landed on the north
side of it, at Fort Chipewyan; where we had the
satisfaction of finding our companions in good
health, and of experiencing that sympathy in our
anxiety on the state of our affairs, the reality of
which was only to be expected from those whd
were to share our future fortunes,

OF THE POLAR SEA, fae

CHAPTER VIL.

ee from So 8 omega of the various Navigations
he Rivers, and Lakes, and of the Portages—Slave Lake and
Se Peitttence Soar of Provisions, and discontent of the
Canadian Voyagers—Difficulties with regard to the Indian Guides
—Refusal to proceed—Visit of Observation to the Upper part of
Keke River—Return to the Winter-Quarters of Fort
nte
Karty this morning the stores were dis-
Sate 18. tributed to the three canoes. Our stock
of provision unfortunately did not amount to more
than sufficient for one day’s consumption, exclu-
sive of two barrels of flour, three cases of pre-
served meats, some chocolate, arrow-root, and
portable soup, which we had brought from Eng-
land, and intended to reserve for our journey to
the coast the next season. Seventy pounds of
moose meat and a little barley were all that Mr.
Smith was enabled to give us. It was gratifying,
however, to perceive that this scarcity of food
did not depress the spirits of our Canadian com-
panions, who cheerfully loaded their canoes, and
embarked in high glee after they had received

302 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the customary dram. At noon we bade farewell
to our kind friend Mr. Smith. The crews com-
menced a lively paddling song on quitting the
shore, which was continued until we had lost
sight of the houses. We soon reached the west-
em boundary of the lake, and at two entered the
Stony River, one of the discharges of the Atha-
basca Lake into the Slave River, and having a
favouring current passed swiftly along. This
narrow stream is confined between low swampy
banks, which support willows, dwarf birch, and
alder. At five we passed its conflux with the
Peace River. The Slave River, ‘formed by the
union of these streams, is about three quarters: of
a mile wide. We descended ‘this magnificent
river, with ‘much rapidity, and after passing
through several narrow channels, formed by an
assemblage of islands, crossed a spot where

waters hhad a violent whirling motion, which, when
the river ‘is low, is said to subside into a danger-
ous Tapid; on the present occasion no other in-
convenience was felt than the inability of steering
the canoes, which were whirled about in every
direction by the eddies, until the current carried
them beyond their influence. We encamped at
Seven, on the swampy bank of the river, but had
scarcely pitched the tents ‘before we were visited
by a terrible thunder-storm:; the rain fell in tor-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 303

rents, and the violence of the wind caused the
river to overflow its banks, so that we were com-
pletely flooded. Swarms of musquitoes succeeded
__ the storm, and their tormenting stings, superadded
to other inconveniences, induced us to embark,
and, after taking a hasty supper, to pursue our
voyage down the stream during the night.

At six on the following morning we passed the
Rein-DeerIslands, and at ten reached the entrance
of the Dog River, where we halted to set the fish-
ing nets. These were examined in the evening,
08 to our mortification we obts inec only four
preserved rents for supper. The latitude: of the
mouth of Dog River, was observed 59° 52’ 16’ N.

The nets were taken up at daylight, but they
furnished only a solitary pike. We lost ‘no time
in embarking, and crossed the crooked channel of

Heras iota cae

sternmost had its bow broken off. We-were for-
tunately near to the shore or the disabled ‘canoe
would have ‘sunk. The injury being repaired in
two hours, we again embarked, and havi

scended another rapid, arrived at the Cassette
Portage of four hundred and sixty paces, over
which the~cargoes and canoes were carried in
about twenty-six minutes. We next passed

304 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

through a narrow channel full of rapids, crossed
the Portage d’Embarras of seventy-yards; and
the portage of the Little Rock, of three hundred
yards, at which another accident happened to one
of the canoes, by the bowman slipping and letting
it fall upon a rock, and breaking it in two. Two
hours were occupied in sewing the detached
pieces together, and covering the seam with pitch;
but this being done it was as effective as before.
After leaving this place we soon came to the next
portage, of two hundred and seventy-three paces ;
and shortly afterwards to the Mountain Portage,
of one hundred and twenty: which is appropri-
ately named, as the path leads over the summit
of a high hill, This elevated situation commands
a very grand and picturesque view, for some miles
along the river, which at this part is about a mile
wide.
We next crossed a portage of one andoed and
twenty yards ; and then the Pelican Portage, of
eight hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate
sketch of the interesting scenery which the river
presents at this place. After descending six
imiles further we came to the last portage on the
route to Slave Lake which we crossed, and en-
camped in its lower end. It is called ‘“ The
Portage of the Drowned,” and it received that
name from a melancholy accident which took place

OF THE POLAR SEA. 395

many years ago. Two canoes arrived at the
upper end of the portage, in one of which there ~
was an experienced guide. This man judging
from the height of the river, deemed it practicable
to shoot the rapid, and determined upon trying it.
He accordingly placed himself in the bow of his
canoe, having previously agreed, that if the pas-
Sage was found easy, he should, on reaching the
bottom of the rapid, fire a musket, as a signal for
the other canoe to follow. The rapid proved dan-
gerous, and called forth all the skill of the guide,
and the utmost exertion of his crew, and they
narrowly escaped destruction. Just as they were
landing, an unfortnnate fellow seizing the loaded
_ fowling-piece, fired at a duck which rose at the in-
~ stant. The guide anticipating the consequences,
ran with the utmost haste to the other end of the
portage, but he was too late: the other canoe had
pushed off, and he arrived only to witness the
fate of his comrades. They got alarmed in the
middle of the rapid, the canoe was upset, and
every man perished.

The various rapids we have passed to-day, are .
produced by an assemblage of islands and ro
ledges, which obstruct the river, and divide it
into many narrow channels. Two of these chan-
nels are rendered still more difficult by accumu-
lations of drift timber ; a circumstance _ has

Vou. I,

306 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

given a name to one of the portages. The rocks
which form the bed of the river, and the nume-
rous islands, belong to the granite formation. The
distance made to-day was thirteen miles.

July 21.—We embarked at four A.M. and
pursued our course down the river. The rocks
cease at the last portage ; and below it the banks
are composed of alluvial soil, which is held to-
gether by the roots of trees and shrubs that crown
their summits. The river is about a mile wide,
and the current is greatly diminished. At eight
we landed at the mouth of the Salt River, and
pitched our tents, intending to remain here this
and the next day for the purpose of fishing.
After breakfast, which made another inroad on
our preserved meats, we proceeded up the river
in a light canoe, to visit the salt springs, leaving
a party behind to attend the nets. This river is -
about one hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its
waters did not become brackish until we had as-
cended it seven or eight miles; but when we had
passed several rivulets of fresh water which flowed
in, the main stream became very salt, at the same
time contracting to the width of fifteen or twenty
yards. At a distance of twenty-two miles, in-
cluding the windings of the river, the plains com-
mence. Having pitched the tent at this spot,
we set out to visit the principal springs, and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 307

@

walked about three miles when the musquitoes
compelled us to give up our project. We did
not see the termination of the plains toward the
east, but on the north and west they are bounded
by an even ridge, about six or seven hundred
feet in height. Several salt springs issue from
the foot of this ridge, and spread their waters
over the plain, which consists of tenacious clay.
During the summer much evaporation takes
place, and large heaps of salt are left behind
crystallized in the form of cubes. Some beds of
greyish compact gypsum were exposed on the
sides of the hills. t

The next morning after filling some casks with
salt for our use during winter, we embarked to
return, and had descended the river a few miles,
’ when turning round a point, we perceived a
buffalo plunge into the river before us. Eager to
secure so valuable a prize, we instantly opened a
firé upon him from four muskets, and in a few
minutes he fell, but not before he had received
fourteen balls. The carcass was towed to the
bank, and the canoe speedily laden with meat.
After this piece of good fortune, we descended
the stream merrily, our voyagers chanting their
liveliest songs. On arrival at the mouth of the
river, we found that our nets had not produced

more than enough to supply a scanty meal to the
X2

308 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

men whom we had left behind, but this was now

of little importance, as the acquisition of meat
we had made would enable us to proceed without
more delay to Slave Lake. The poisson inconnu
mentioned by Mackenzie, is found here. Itisa
species of the Genus Salmo, and is said by the
Indians to ascend from the Arctic Sea, but being
unable to pass the cascade of the Slave River, is
not found higher than this place. In the evening
a violent thunder-storm came on with heavy rain ;
thermometer 70°.

At a very early hour on the following morning
we embarked, and continued to paddle against a
very strong wind and high waves, under the
shelter of the bank of the rivers, until two P. M.,
when having arrived at a more exposed part of
the stream, the canoes took in so much water
that we were obliged to disembark on a small
island. The river here is from one mile anda
quarter to one mile and three quarters wide. Its

banks are of moderate height, sandy, and well
wooded.

July 24.—We made: more progress notwith-
standing the continuance of the wind: The course
of the river is very winding, making in one place

‘a circuit of seven or eight miles round a penin-
= which is joined to the west bank by 2
ears nai Near the foot of this elbow, a

OF THE POLAR SEA 309

long island. occupies the centre of the river, which
it divides into two channels, The longitude was
obtained near to it 113° 25’ 36”, and variation
27° 25’ 14” N., and the latitude 60° 54/ 52” N.,
about four miles farther down. We passed the
mouth of a broad channel leading to the north-
east, termed La Grande Riviére de Jean, one of
the two large branches by which the river pours
its waters into the Great Slave Lake ; the flooded
delta at the mouth of the river is intersected by
several smaller channels, through one of which,
called the Channel of the. Scaffold,. we pursued
our voyage on the following morning, and by
eight A.M. reached the establishment of the
North-West Company on Moose-Deer Island.
We found letters from Mr. Wentzel, dated Fort
Providence, on the north side of the lake which
communicated to us, that there was an Indian
guide waiting for us at that post ;.but, that the
chief and the hunters, who were to accompany
the party, had gone to a short distance to hunt.
They were becoming impatient at our delay.
Soon after landing, I visited the Hudson’s Bay
Post on the same island, and engaged Pierre St.
German, an interpreter for the Copper Indians.
We regretted to find the posts of both the Com-
panies extremely,bar e of provision; but as the
gentlemen 1 in charge had despatched men on the

glo JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

preceding evening, toa band of Indians, in search
of meat, and they promised to furnish us with
whatever should be brought, it was deemed
advisable to wait for their return, as the smallest
‘supply was now of importance to us, Advantage
was taken of the delay to repair effectually the
canoe, which had been broken in the Dog Rapid.
On the next evening the men arrived with the
meat, and enabled Mr. M‘Cleod, of the North-
West Company, to furnish us with four hundred
pounds of dried provisions. Mr. M‘Vicar, of the
Hudson’s Bay Company, also supplied one hun-
dred and fifty pounds. This quantity we con-
sidered would be sufficient, until we could join
the hunters. We also obtained three fishing-nets,
a gun, and a pair of pistols, which were all the
stores these posts could furnish, although the
gentlemen in charge were much disposed to
assist us.

Moose-Deer Island is about a mile in diame-
ter, and rises towards the centre about three
hundred feet above the lake. Its soil is in general
sandy, in some parts swampy. The varieties of
the northern berries grow abundantly on it. The
North-West Company’s Fort is in latitude 61° 11’
8° N.; longitude 113° 51’ 37’ W., being two
hundred and sixty statute x iles distant from
Fort Chipewyan, by the river course. The va-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 311

tiation of the compass is 25° 40’ 47" E. The
houses of the two Companies are small, and
have a bleak northern aspect. There are vast
accumulations of drift wood on the shores of the
lake, brought down by the river, which afford
plenty of fuel. The inhabitants live principally
on the fish, which the lake at certain seasons
furnishes in great abundance; of these, the white
fish, trout, and poisson inconnu are considered the
best. They also procure moose, buffalo, and
rein-deer meat occasionally from their hunters ;
but these animals are generally found at the
distance of several days’ walk from the forts.
The Indians who trade here are Chipewyans.
Beavers, martens, foxes, and musk-rats, are
caught in numbers in the vicinity of this great
body of water. The musquitoes are still a
serious annoyance to us, but they are less
numerous than before. They are in some degree
replaced by a small sandfly, whose bite is suc-
ceeded by a copious flow of blood, and consider-
able swelling, but is attended with incomparably
less irritation, than the puncture of the musquito.

On the 27th of July we embarked at four AM.,
and proceeded along the south shore of the lake,
through a narrow channel, formed by some
islands, beyond, the confluence of the principal
branch of the Slave River; and as far as Stony

312 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Island, where we breakfasted. This island is
merely a rock of gneiss, that rises forty or fifty
feet above the lake, and is precipitous on the
north side, As the day was fine, and the lake
smooth, we ventured upon paddling across to the
Rein-Deer Islands, which were distant about thir-
teen miles in a northern direction, instead of pur-
suing the usual track by keeping further along the
south shore, which inclines to the eastward from
this point. These islands are numerous, and
consist of granite, rising from one hundred to
two hundred feet above the water. They are
for the most part naked ; but towards the centres
of the larger ones, there is a little soil, and a few
groves of pines. “At seven in the evening we
landed upon one of them, and encamped n
breeze, and a heavy swell, for some hours, but at
length were obliged to seek shelter ona large
island adjoining to Isle 4 la Cache of Mackenzie;
where the following observations were obtained :
latitude 61° 50’ 18” N., longitude 113° 21°40” W.,
and variation 31° 2 06” E.
The wind and swell having subsided in the
afternoon, we re-embarked, and steered towards
the western point of the Big Island of Mackenzie;
and when four miles distant from it, had forty-
two fathoms soundings. Passing between this

OF THE POLAR SEA. 318

island and a promontory of the main shore, —
termed Big Cape, we entered into a deep bay,

_ which receives the waters from several rivers

that come from the northward; and we imme-

diately perceived a decrease in the temperature

of the waters, from 59° to 48°. We coasted along
the eastern side of the bay, its western shore
being always visible, but the canoes were ex-
posed to the hazard of being broken by the
numerous sunken rocks, which were scattered in
our track. We encamped for the night on a
rocky island, and by eight A.M. on the following
morning, afrived at Fort Providence, which is
situated twenty-one miles from the entrance of
the bay. The post is exclusively occupied by
the North-West Company, the Hudson’s Bay
: ng no settlement to the northward
. We found Mr. .Wentzel

situation for fishing.
to him by a fire on the top of a hill, and: before

night a messenger came to communicate his
intention of seeing us next morning. The cus-
tomary present, of tobacco and some other arti-
cles, was immediately sent to him.

314 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Mr. Wentzei prepared me for the first confer-
ence with the Indians by mentioning all the in
formation they had already given to him. The
duties allotted to this gentleman were, the ma-
nagement of the Indians, the superintendence of
the Canadian voyagers, the obtaining, and the
general distribution, of the provision, and the
issue of the other stores. These services he was
well qualified to perform, having been accustomed
to execute similar duties, during a residence of
upwards of twenty years in this country. We
also deemed Mr. Wentzel to be a great acquisi-
tion to our party, as a check on the ‘interpreters,
he being one of the few traders who speak the
Chipewyan language.

As we were informed that external appearances
made lasting impressions on the Indians, we pre-
pared for the interview by decorating ourselves
in uniform, and suspending a medal round each
of our necks. Our tents had been previously
pitched, and over one of them a silken union flag
was hoisted. Soon after noon, on July 30th,
several Indian canoes were seen advancing in a
regular line, and on their approach, the chief was
discovered in the headmost, which was paddled
by two men. On landing at the fort, the chief
assumed a very grave aspect, and walked up to
Mr. Wentzel with a measured and dignified step,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 315

looking neither to the right nor to the left, at the —
persons who had assembled on the beach to wit-
ness his debarkation, but preserving the same
immoveability of countenance until he reached
the hall, and was introduced to the officers. When
he had smoked his pipe, drank a small portion of
Spirits and water himself, and issued a glass to
each of his companions, who had seated them-
selves on the floor, he commenced his harangue,
by mentioning the circumstances that led to his
agreeing to accompany‘the Expedition, an en-
gagement which he was quite prepared to fulfil.
He was rejoiced, he said, to see such great chiefs
on his lands, his'tribe were poor, but they loved
white men who had: been their benefactors ; and
he hoped that our visit would be productive of
much good to them. ‘The report which preceded
our arrival, he said, had caused much grief to
him. It was at first rumoured that a great medi-
cine chief accompanied us, who was able to re-
store the dead to life; at this he rejoiced, the
prospect of again seeing his departed relatives
had enlivened his spirits, but his first communi
cation with Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain
hopes, and he felt as if bis friends hada second
time been torn from him. He now wished to be
informed exactly of the nature of our expedition.
In reply to this speech, which I understood had

316 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

been prepared for many days, I endeavoured to
explain the objects of our mission in a manner
best calculated to ensure his exertions in our ser-
vice. With this view, I told him that we were
sent out by the greatest chief in the world, who
was the sovereign also of the trading companies
in the country ; that he was the friend of peace,
and had the interest of every nation at heart.
Having learned that his children in the north,
were much in want of articles of merchandise, in
consequence of the extreme length and difficulty
of the present route ; he had sent us to search for
a passage by the sea, which if found, would en-
able large vessels to transport great quantities of
goods more easily to their lands. That we had
not come for the purpose of traffic, but solely
to make discoveries for their benefit, as well as
that of every other people. That we had been
directed to inquire into the nature of all the pro-
ductions of the countries we might pass through,
and particularly respecting their inhabitants.
That we desired the assistance of the Indians in
guiding us, and providing us with food ; finally,
that we were most positively enjoined by the
great chief to recommend that hostilities should
cease throughout this country ; and especially.
between the Indians and the Esquimaux, whom
he considered his children, in common with other

OF THE POLAR SEA. 317

natives ; and by way of enforcing the latter point
more strongly, I assured him that a forfeiture of
all the advantages which might be anticipated
from the Expedition would be a certain conse-
quence, if any quarrel.arose between his party
and the Esquimaux. I also communicated to him
that owing to the distance we had travelled, we
had now few more stores than was ‘necessary
for the use of our own party, a part of these, how-
ever, should be forthwith presented to him; on his
return he and his party should be remunerated
with cloth, ammunition, tobacco, and some use-
ful iron materials, besides having” mepeb ies to
the North-West Company
The chief, whose name is. Akaitcho or Big: a.
replied by a renewal of his assurances, that he
and his party would attend us to the end of our
journey, and that they would do their utmost to
provide us with the means of subsi: He
admitted that his tribe had made war upon the
Esquimaux, but said they were now desirous of
peace, and unanimous in their opinion as to the
necessity of all who accompanied us abstaining
from every act of enmity against that nation. He
added, however, that the Esquimaux were very
treacherous, and therefore recommended that we
should advance towards them with caution.
The communications which the chief and the

318 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

guides then gave respecting the route to the
Copper-Mine River, and: its course to the sea,
coincided in every material point with the state-
ments which were made by Boileau and Black-
meat at Chipewyan, but they differed in their
descriptions of the coast. The information, how-
ever, collected from both sources was very vague
and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been
more than three day’s march along the sea-coast
to the eastward of the river’s mouth.

As the water was unusually high this season,
the Indian guides recommended our going by a
shorter route to the Copper-Mine River than that
they had first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, and they
assigned as a reason for the change, that the
rein-deer would be sooner found upon this track.
They then drew a chart of the proposed route on
the floor with charcoal, exhibiting a chain of
twenty-five small lakes extending towards the
north, about one half of them connected by a
river which flows into Slave Lake, near Fort
Providence. One of the guides, named Keskarrah,
drew the Copper-Mine River, running through
the Upper Lake in a westerly direction towards
the Great Bear Lake, and then northerly to the
sea. The other guide drew the river in a straight
line to the sea from the above-mentioned place,
- but, after some dispute, admitted the correctness

OF THE POLAR SEA. 319

of’ the first delineation, The latter was elder
brother to Akaitcho, and he said that he had ac-
companied Mr. Hearne on: his journey, and
though very young at the time, still remembered
many of the circumstances, and particularly the
massacre committed by the Indians on the Es-
quimaux. | :

They pointed out another lake to the south-
ward of the river, about three days’ journey dis-
tant from it, on which the chief proposed the
next winter’s establishment should be formed, as
the rein-deer would pass there in the autumn
and spring. Its waters contained fish, and-there
was a sufficiency of wood for building as well as
for the winter’s consumption. These.were im-
portant considerations, and determined me in pur-
suing the route they now proposed. They could
not inform us what time we should take in reach-
ing the lake, until they saw our manner of tra-
velling in the large canoes, but they supposed
we might be about twenty days, in which case I
entertained the hope that if we could then pro-
cure provision we should have time to descend
the Copper-Mine River for a considerable: dis-
tance if not to the sea itself, and return to the lake
before the winter set in.

It may here be proper to mention that it had
been my original plan to descend the Mackenzie's

320 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

River, and to cross the Great Bear Lake from the
eastern side of which, Boileau informed me, there
is a communication with the Copper-Mine River
by four small lakes and portages; but, under our
present circumstances, this course could not be
followed, because it would remove us too far from
the establishments at the Great Slave Lake, to
receive the supplies of ammunition and some
other stores in the winter which were absolutely
necessary for the prosecution of our journey, oF
to get the Esquimaux interpreter, whom we ex-
pected. IfI had not deemed these circumstances
paramount I should have preferred the route by
Bear Lake.

Akaitcho and the guides having communicated
all the information they possessed on the different
points to which our questions had been directed,
I placed my medal round the neck of the chief,
and the officers presented theirs to an elder bro-
ther of his and the two guides, communicating to
them that these marks of distinction were given
as tokens of our friendship and as pledges of the
sincerity of our professions. Being conferred in
the presence of all the hunters their acquisition
was highly gratifying to them, but they studiously
avoided any great expression of joy, because
such an exposure would have been unbecoming
the dignity which the senior Indians assume

OF THE POLAR SEA. 321

during a conference. They assured us, however,
of their being duly sensible of these tokens of
our regard, and that they should be preserved
during their lives with the utmost care. The
chief evinced much penetration and intelligence
during the whole of this conversation, which gave
us a fayourable opinion of his intellectual powers.
He made many inquiries respecting the Discovery
ships, under the command of Captain Parry,
which had been mentioned to him, and asked
_ why a passage had not been discovered long ago,
if one existed. It may be stated that we gave a
faithful explanation to all his inquiries, which
policy would have prompted us to do if a love
of truth had not; for whenever these northern
nations detect a falsehood in the dealings of the
traders, they make it an unceasing subject of
reproach, and their confidence is irrecoverably
lost.
"ae presented to the chief, the two guides, and
who had engaged to accom-

the seven hunters,
some cloth, blankets, tobacco, knives,

besides other useful iron materials, and
also a keg of very weak spirits
they kept until the evening, as
before dark, and make
commencing the
The Indians,

¥

pany us,
daggers,
a gun to each;
and water, which
they had to try their guns |
the necessary preparations for

journey on the following day.

Vou. L

322 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

however, did not leave us on the next day, as
the chief was desirous of being present, with his
party, at the dance, which was given in the even-
ing to our Canadian voyagers. They were
highly entertained by the vivacity and agility
displayed by our companions in their singing
and dancing: and especially by their imitating
the gestures of a Canadian, who placed himself
in the most ludicrous postures; and, whenever
this was done, the gravity of the chief gave way
to violent bursts of laughter. In return for the
gratification Akaitcho had enjoyed, he desired
his young men to exhibit the Dog-Rib Indian
dance; and immediately they ranged themselves
in a circle, and, keeping their legs widely sepa-
rated, began to jump simultaneously sideways ;
their bodies were bent, their hands placed on
their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjec-
tion tsa at each jump. Devoid as were their
attitudes of grace, and their music of harmony,
we were much amused by the novelty of the
exhibition.

In the midst of this scene an untoward accident
occurred, which for a time interrupted our amuse-
ments. The tent in which Dr. Richardson and I
lodged having caught fire from some embers that
had been placed in it to expel the musquitoes,
was entirely bumt. Hepburn, who was sleeping

OF THE POLAR SEA, 32:3

within it, close to some powder, most provi-
dentially was awoke in time to throw it clear of
the flame, and rescue the baggage, before any
‘material injury had been received. We dreaded
the consequences of this disaster upon the fickle
minds of the Indians, and wished it not to be
communicated tothem. The chief, however, was
soon informed of it by one of his people, and ex-
pressed his desire that no future misfortune should
be concealed from him. We found he was most
concerned to hear that the flag had been burnt,
but we removed his anxiety on that point, by the
assurance that it could easily be repaired. We
were advised by Mr. Wentzel to recommence the
dancing after this event, lest the Indians should
imagine, by our putting a stop to it, that we con-
sidered the circumstance as an unfavourable com-
mencement of our undertaking. We were, how-
ever, deeply impressed with a grateful sense of
the Divine Providence, in averting the threatened
destruction of our stores, which would have been
fatal to every prospect of proceeding forward this
season. 7
August 1.—This morning the Indians set out,
intending to wait for us at the mouth of the
Yellow-Knife River. We remained behind to
pack our stores, in bales of eighty pounds each,
an operation which could not, be done in the pre-
Y2

324 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

sence of these Indians, as they are in the habit
of begging for every thing they see. Our stores
consisted of two barrels of gunpowder, one hun-
dred and forty pounds of ball and small shot, four
fowling-pieces, a few old trading guns, eight
pistols, twenty-four Indian daggers, some pack-
ages of knives, chisels, axes, nails, and fastenings
for a boat; a few yards of cloth, some blankets,
needles, looking-glasses, and beads; together
with nine fishing-nets, having meshes of different
sizes. Our provision was two casks of flour,
two hundred dried rein-deer tongues, some dried
moose meat, portable soup, and arrow-root, suffi-
cient in the whole for ten days’ consumption,
besides two cases of chocolate, and two canisters
of tea. We engaged another Canadian voyager
at this place, and the Expedition then consisted
of twenty-eight persons, including the officers,
and the wives of three of our voyagers, who were
brought for the purpose of making shoes and
clothes for the men at the winter establishment;
there were also three children, belonging to two
of these women*.

_* The following is the list of the —— and men who composed
the Expedition on its departure from Fort Providence :

John Franklin, Lieutenant of the Royal Navy and Commander.
John Richardson, M.D., Surgeon of the Royal gn 8

Mr. George Back, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty M

Mr. Robert Hood, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Misia

OF THE POLAR SEA. ans

Our observations place Fort Providence in
latitude 62° 17 19” N., longitude 114° 9’ 28” W.;
the variation of the compass is 33° 35’ 55” E.,
and dip of the needle 86° 38’ 02”. It is distant
from Moose-Deer Island sixty-six geographic
miles. This is the last establishment of the
traders in this direction, but the North-West
Company have two to the northward of it, on
the Mackenzie River. It has been erected for
the convenience of the Copper and Dog-Rib
Indians, who generally bring such a quantity of
rein-deer meat that the residents are enabled,
out of their superabundance, to send annually
some provision to the fort at Moose-Deer Island.
They also occasionally procure moose and buffalo
meat, but these animals are not numerous on this

Mr. Frederick Wentzel, Clerk to the North-West Company.

English seaman.

John Hepburn,
CANADIAN VOYAGERS.

Joseph Peltier, Gabriel Beauparlant,

Matthew Pelonquin, dit Credit, Vineenza —

Solomon Belanger, Registe

Joseph Bennoit, Jean Deptiate Forest,

Joseph Gagné, Jean Baptiste Belanger,
Jean Baptiste Belleau,

Emanuel Cournoyée,

Joseph Forcier,
Ignace Perrault, Michel Teroahauté, an Iroquois.
Francais Samandré,

INTERPRETERS.

Pierre St. Germain, Chipewyan Bois Brulés.

Jean Baptiste Adam,

326 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

side of the lake. Few furs are collected. Les
potssons inconnus, trout, pike, carp, and white fish
are very plentiful, and on these the residents
principally subsist. Their great supply of fish
is procured in the latter part of September and
the beginning of October, but there are a few
taken daily in the nets during the winter. The
- Surrounding country consists almost entirely of
coarse grained granite, frequently enclosing large
masses of reddish felspar. These rocks form
hills which attain an elevation of three hundred
or four hundred feet, about a mile behind the
house; their surface is generally naked, but in
the valleys between them a few spruces, aspens,
and birches grow, together with a variety of
shrubs and berry-bearing plants. bss

On the afternoon of the 2d of August we com-
menced our journey, having, in addition to our
three canoes, a smaller one to convey the women;
we were all in high spirits, being heartily glad
that the time had at length arrived when our
course was to be directed towards the Copper-
Mine River, and through a line of country which
had not been previously visited by any European.
We proceeded to the northward, along the eastern
side of a deep bay of the lake, passing through
various channels, formed by an assemblage of
rocky islands; and, at sunset, encamped on a

-
OF THE POLAR SEA. 397

projecting point of the north main shore, eight
miles from Fort Providence. To the westward
of this arm, or bay, of the lake, there is another
deep bay, that receives the waters of a river,
which communicates with Great Marten Lake,
where the North-West Company had once a post
established. The eastern shores of the Great
Slave Lake are very imperfectly known: none of
the traders have visited them, and the Indians
give such loose and unsatisfactory accounts, that
no estimation can be formed of its extent in that
direction. These men say there is a communi-
cation from its eastern extremity by a chain of
lakes, with a shallow river, which discharges its

waters into the sea. This stream they call the

Thlouee-tessy, and report it to be navigable for

Indian canoes only. The forms of the south and
western shores are better known from the survey
of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, and in consequence
of the canoes having to pass and repass along
these borders annually, between Moose-Deer
Island and Mackenzie’s River. Our observations
made the breadth of the lake, between Stony
Island, and the north main shore, sixty miles less
than it is laid down in Arrowsmith’s map; and
there is also a considerable difference in the
longitude of the eastern side of the bay, which
we entered,

328 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

This lake, owing to its great depth, is seldom
completely frozen over before the last week in
November; and the ice, which is generally seven
feet thick, breaks up about the middle of June,
three weeks later than that of the Slave River.
The only known outlet to this vast body of water,
which receives so many streams on its north and
south shores, is the Mackenzie’s River. .

August 3.—We embarked at three A. M. and
proceeded to the entrance of the Yellow-Knife
River of the traders, which is called by the natives
Beg-ho-lo-dessy ; or, River of the Toothless Fish.
We found Akaitcho, and the hunters with their
families, encamped here. There were also seve-
ral other Indians of his tribe, who intended to
accompany us some distance into the interior.
This party was quickly in motion after our arrival,
_ and we were soon surrounded by a fleet of seven-
teen Indian canoes. In company with them we
paddled up the river, which is one hundred and
fifty yards wide, and, in an hour, came to a cas-
cade of five feet, where we were compelled to
make a portage of one hundred and fifty-eight
yards. We next crossed a dilatation of the river,
about six miles in length, upon which the name
of Lake Prosperous was bestowed. Its shores,
though scantily supplied with wood, are very pic-
turesque.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 329

Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his
slave, a young man, of the Dog-Rib nation, whom
he had taken by force from his friends ; when he
thought himself, however, out of reach of our ob-
servation, he laid aside a good deal of his state,
and assisted in the labour ; and, after a few days’
further acquaintance with us, he did not hesitate
to paddle in our presence, or even carry his
canoe on the portages. Several of the canoes
were managed by women, who proved to be
noisy companions, for they quarrelled frequently,
and the weakest was generally profuse in her
lamentations, which were not at all diminished,
‘when the husband attempted to settle the dif-
ference by a few blows with his paddle.

An observation, near the centre of the lake, ~
gave 114 13'39" W., and 33° 8’ 06" E. varia-
timnacuse
Leaving the lake, we ascended a very strong
rapid, and arrived at a range of three steep cas-
cades, situated in the bend of the river. Here
we made a portage of one thousand three hundred
yards over a rocky hill, which received the name of
the Bowstring Portage, from its shape. We found
that the Indians had greatly the advantage of us
in this operation; the men carried their small
canoes, the women and children the clothes and

330 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

provisions, and at the end of the portage they
were ready to embark ; whilst it was necessary
for our people to return four times, before they
could transport the weighty cargo with which we
were burthened. After passing through another
expansion of the river, and over the Steep Portage
of one hundred and fifteen yards, we encamped on
a small rocky isle, just large enough to hold our
party, and the Indians took possession of an
adjoining rock. We were now distant. thirty
miles from Fort Providence.

As soon as the tents were pitched, the officers
and men were divided into watches for the night;
a precaution intended to be taken throughout the
journey, not merely to. prevent our being sur-
prised by strangers, but also to show our com-

ions that we were constantly on our guard.
The chief, who suffered nothing to escape his
observation, remarked, “ that he should sleep
without anxiety among the Esquimaux, for he
perceived no enemy could surprise us.”

After supper we retired to rest, but our sleep
was soon interrupted by the Indians joining in
loud lamentations over a sick child, whom they
Supposed to be dying. Dr. Richardson, how-
ever, immediately went to the boy, and adminis-
tered some medicine which relieved his pain,

OF THE POLAR SEA, 331

and put a stop to their mourning. The tempera-
tures, this day, were at four A.M. 54°, three
P.M. 72°, at seven P.M. 65°.

On the 4th we crossed a small lake, and passed
over in succession the Blue Berry Cascade, and

ridges of rocks that completely obstruct the pas-
sage for canoes. We came to three strong rapids
beyond these barriers, which were surmounted
by the aid of the poles and lines, and then toa
bend of the river in which the cascades were so
frequent, that to avoid them we carried the canoes
into a chain of small lakes. We entered them by
a portage of nine hundred and fifty paces, and

during the afternoon traversed three other grassy

lakes, and encamped on the banks of the river, at

the end of the Yellow-Knife Portage, of three

hundred and fifty paces. This day’s work was
very laborious to our men. Akaitcho, however,
had directed his party to assist them in carrying
their burdens on the portages, which they did
cheerfully. This morning Mr. Back caught seve-
ral fish with a fly, a method of fishing entirely
new to the Indians ; and they were not more de-
lighted than astonished at his skill and success.
The extremes of temperature to day were 54°

and 65°.
On August 5th we continued the ascent of the

332 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

river which varied much in breadth as did the
current in rapidity. It flows between high rocky
banks on which there is sufficient soil to support
pines, birch, and poplars. Five portages were
crossed, then the Rocky Lake, and we finished
our labours at the end of the sixth portage. The
issue of dried meat for breakfast this morning
had exhausted all our stock; and no other pro-
vision remained but the portable soups, and a few
pounds of preserved meat. At the recommenda-
tion of Akaitcho, the hunters were furnished with
ammunition, and desired to go forward as speedily
as possible, to the part where the rein-deer were
expected to be found; and to return to us with
any provision they could procure. He also as-
sured us that in our advance towards them we
should come to lakes abounding in fish. Many
of the Indians, being also in distress for food,
decided on separating from us, and going on at a
quicker pace than we could travel.

_ Akaitcho himself was always furnished with a
portion at our meals, as a token of regard which
the traders have taught the chiefs to expect, and
which we willingly paid.

The next morning we crossed a small lake
and a portage, before we entered the river;
shortly afterwards, the canoes and cargoes were
carried a mile along its banks, to avoid three

OF THE POLAR SEA. 333

very strong rapids, and over another portage into
PaerOw lake ; we encamped on an island in the
middle of it, to set the nets ; but they only yielded

a few fish, and we had a very scanty supper, as
it was necessary to deal out our provision spar-
ingly. The longitude 114° 27' 03” W. and vari-
ation 33° 04” E., were observed. :

We had the mortification of finding the nets en-
tirely empty next morning, an untoward circum-
stance that discouraged our voyagers very much ;
and they complained of being unable to support
the fatigue to which they were daily exposed, on
their present scanty fare. We had seen with re-
gret that the portages were more frequent as we
advanced to the northward, and feared that their
strength would fail, if provision were not soon
obtained, We embarked at six, proceeded to the
head of the lake, and crossed a portage of two
thousand five hundred paces, leading over ridges
of sand-hills, which nourished pines of a larger
size than we had lately seen. This conducted
us to Mossy Lake, from whence we regained the
river, after traversing another portage. The
Birch and Poplar Portages next followed, and
beyond these we came to a part where the river
takes a great circuit, and its course is interrupted
by several heavy falls. The guide, therefore,
advised us to quit it, and proceed through a

334 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

chain of nine lakes extending to the ‘north-east,
which we did, and encamped on Icy Portage,
where the-nets were set. The bottom of the
valley, through which the track across this port-
age led, was covered with ice four or five feet
thick, the remains of a iutge iceberg, which is
annually formed there, by the snow drifting into
the valley, and becoming consolidated into ice by
the overflowing of some Springs that are warm
enough to resist the winter's cold. The latitude
is 63° 22 15’ N., longitude 114° 15’ 30” W.-
We were alarmed in the night by our fire com-
municating to the dry moss, which, spreading by
the force of a strong wind, encircled the encamp-
ment and threatened destruction to our canoes
and baggage. The watch immediately aroused
_ all the men, who quickly removed whatever could
be injured to a distant part, and afterwards suc.
ceeded in extinguishing the flame.
- August 8.—During this day we crossed five
portages, passing over a very bad road. The
men were quite exhausted with fatigue by five
-M., when we were obliged to encamp on the
borders of the fifth lake, in which the fishing nets
were set. We began this evening to issue some
portable soup: and arrow-root, which our com-
panions relished very much; but this food is too
unsubstantial to support their vigour under their

OF THE POLAR SEA. 335

-vandlietiae labour, and we could not furnish
cient quantity even of this to sa-
tsfy their desires. _We commenced our labours
os oa 7 ee in a very wet uncomfortable
. a a rained through the night until four

-M. The fifth grassy lake was crossed, and
four others, with their intervening portages, and
we returned to the river by a portage of one thou-
sand four hundred and fifteen paces. The width
of the stream here is about one hundred yards,
its banks are moderately high, and scantily
covered with wood. We afterwards twice car-
ried the cargoes along its banks to avoid a very
Stony rapid, and then crossed the first Carp
Portage in longitude 114° 2’ Ol’ W.., variation of
the compass 32° 30' 40° E., and encamped on the
borders of Lower Carp Lake.

The chief having told us that this was a good
lake for fishing, we determined on halting for a
day or two to recruit our men, of whom three
were lame, and several others had swelled legs.
The chief himself went forward to look after the
hunters, and he promised to make a fire as a sig-
nal if they had killed any rein-deer. All the
Indians had left us in the course of yesterday
and to-day to seek these animals, except the

guide Keskarrah.
August 10.—The nets furnishing only four

336 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

carp, we embarked for the purpose of searching
for a better spot, and encamped again on the
shores of the same lake. The spirits of the men
were much revived by seeing some recent traces
of rein-deer at this place, which circumstance
caused them to cherish the hope of soon getting a
supply of meat from the hunters. They were
also gratified by finding abundance of blue berries
near to the encampment, which made an agree-
able and substantial addition to their otherwise
scanty fare. We were teased by sand-flies this
evening, although the thermometer did not rise
above 45°. The country through which we have
travelled for some days consists principally of
granite, intermixed i in some spots with mica slate,
often passing into clay-slate. But the borders of
Lower Carp Lake, where the gneiss formation
prevails, are composed of hills, having less alti-
tude, fewer precipices, and more rounded sum-
mits. The valleys are less fertile, containing a
gravelly soil and fewer trees; so that the country
has throughout a more barren aspect.

August 11.—Having caught sufficient trout,
white fish, and carp, yesterday and this morning,
to afford the party two hearty meals, and the
men being recovered of their fatigue, we pro-
ceeded on our journey, crossed the Upper Carp
Portage, and embarked on the lake of that name,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 337

where we had the gratification of paddling for ten
miles. We put up at its termination to fish, by
the advice of our guide, and the following obser-
vations were then taken: longitude 113° 46’
35” W.., variation of the compass 36° 45’ 30” E.,
dip 87° 11' 48". At this place we first perceived
the north end of our dipping-needle to pass the
perpendicular line when the instrument was faced
to the west. :

_ We had scarcely quitted the encampment next
day before an Indian met us, with the agreeable
communication, that the hunters had made several
fires, which were certain indications of their
having killed rein-Deer. This intelligence in-
spired our companions with fresh energy, and
they quickly traversed the next portage, and
paddled through the Rein-Deer Lake ; at the north
side of it we found the canoes of our hunters, and
learned from our guide, that the Indians usually
leave their canoes here, as the water communi- —
cation on their hunting-grounds is bad. The
Yellow-Knife River had now dwindled into an in-
significant rivulet, and we could not trace it be-
’ yond the next lake, except as a mere brook. The
latitude of its source 64° 1’ 30° N., longitude
113° 36’ W., and its length is one hundred and
fifty-six statute miles. Though this river is of
sufficient breadth and depth for navigating in Ca-

Vou. 1. Z

338 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

noes, yet I conceive its course is too much inter-
rupted by cascades and rapids for its ever being
used as a channel for the conveyance of merchan-
dise. Whilst the crews were employed in making
a portage over the foot of Prospect Hill, we as-
cended to the top of it, and as it is the highest
ground in the neighbourhood, its summit, which
is about five hundred feet above the water, com-
mands an extensive view.
_ Akaitcho, who was here with his family, point-
ed out to us the smoke of the distant fires whi
the hunters had made. The prospect from the
hill is agreeably diversified by an intermixture of
hill and valley, and the appearance of twelve lakes
in different directions. On the borders of these
lakes a few thin pine groves occur, but the coun-
try in general is destitute of almost every vege-
table, except a few berry-bearing shrubs and
lichens, and has a very barren aspect. The hills
are composed of gneiss, but their acclivities are
- covered with a coarse gravelly soil. There are
many large loose stones both on their summits
and acclivities, composed of the same materials
as the solid rock. .
We crossed another lake in the evening, en-
camped, and set the nets. The chief made a
large fire to announce our situation to the hunters.
August 13.—We caught twenty fish this morn-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 339

ing, but they were small, and furnished but a
scanty breakfast for the party. Whilst this meal
was preparing, our Canadian voyagers, who had
been for some days past murmuring at their
meagre diet, and striving to get hole of our
little provision to consume at once, broke out
into open discontent, and several of them threaten-
ed they would not proceed forward unless more
food was given to them. This conduct was the
Jmore unpardonable, as they saw we were rapidly
approaching the fires of the hunters, and that pro-
vision might soon be expected. I, therefore, felt
the duty incumbent on me to address them in the
strongest manner on the danger of insubordina-
tion, and to assure them of my determination to
inflict the heaviest punishment on any that should
persist in their refusal to go on, or in any other
‘way attempt to retard the Expedition. I con-
sidered this decisive step necessary, having learn-
ed from the gentlemen, most intimately acquainted
with’the character of the Canadian voyagers, that
they invariably try how far they can impose upon
every new master with whom they may serve,
and that they will continue to be disobedient and
intractable if they once gain any ascendency over
him. I must admit, however, that the present
hardships of our companions were of a kind
which few could support without murmuring, and
Z2

340 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

no one could witness without feeling a sincere pity
for their sufferings.

After this discussion we went forward until sun-

set. In the course of the day we crossed seven
lakes and a$’many portages. Just as we had
encamped we were delighted to see four of the
hunters arrive with the flesh of two rein-deer.
This seasonable supply, though only sufficient
for this evening’s and the next day’s consumption,
instantly revived the spirits of our companions,
and they immediately forgot all their cares. As.
we did not, after this period, experience any de-
ficiency of food during this journey, they worked
extremely well, and never again reflected upon us
as they had done before, for rashly bringing them
into an inhospitable country, where the means of
subsistence could not be procured.

Several blue fish, resembling the grayling, were
caught i in a stream which flows out of Hunter’s
Lake. It is remarkable for the largeness of the
dorsal fin and the beauty of its colours. -

August 14.—Having crossed the Hunter’s Por-
tage we entered the lake of the same name in
latitude 64° 6' 47” N., longitude 113° 25’ 00” W. ;
but soon quitted it by desire of the Indian guide,
and diverged more to the eastward that we might
get into the line upon which our hunters had gone.
This was the only consideration that could have

a

OF THE POLAR SEA. 341

induced us to remove to a chain of small lakes
connected by long portages. We crossed three
of these, and then were obliged to encamp to rest
the men. The country is bare of wood except a
few dwarf birch bushes, which grow near the
borders of the lakes, and here and there a few
stunted pines; and our fuel principally consisted
of the roots of decayed pines, which we had some
difficulty to collect in sufficient quantity for cook-
ing. When this material is wanting, the rein-
deer lichen and other mosses that grow in profu-
sion on the gravelly acclivities of the hills are
used as substitutes. Three more of the hunters
arrived with meat this evening, which supply
came very opportunely as our nets were unpro-
ductive. At eight P.M. a faint Aurora Borealis
appeared to the southward, the night was cold,

» the wind strong from N.W.

» We were detained some time in the Slowing

morning before the fishing-nets, ‘which had sunk
in the night, could be recovered.

After starting we first crossed the Orkney Lake,
then a portage which brought us to Sandy Lake,
and here we missed one of our barrels of powder,
which the steersman of the canoe then recollect-
ed had been left yesterday. He and two other
men were sent back to search for it, in the small
canoe. The rest of the party proceeded to the

342 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

portage on the north side of the Grizzle-Bear
Lake, where the hunters had made a’ deposit of —
meat, and there encamped to await their return,
which happened at nine P.M. with the powder.

We perceived from the direction of this lake, that
considerable labour would have been spared if
we had continued our course yesterday instead
of striking off at the guide’s suggestion, as the
bottom of this lake cannot be far separated from
either Hunter’s Lake or the one to the westward
of it, The chief and all the Indians went off to
hunt, accompanied by Pierre St. Germain, the
interpreter. They returned at night bringing
some meat, and reported that they had put the
carcasses of several rein-deer en cache. These
were sent for early next morning, and as the
weather was unusually warm, the thermometer,
at noon, being 77°, we remained stationary all »
day, that the women might prepare the meat fon

keeping, by stripping the flesh from the bones
and drying it in the sun over a slow fire. The
hunters were again successful, and by the even-
ing we had collected the carcasses of seventeen
deer. As this was a sufficient store to serve us
until we arrived at Winter Lake, the chief pro-
posed that he and his hunters should proceed to
_ that place and collect some provision against our
atrival. He also requested that we would allow

OF THE POLAR SEA. 343

him to be absent ten days to provide his family

_ with clothing, as the skin of the rein-deer is unfit

for that purpose after the month of September.
We could not refuse to grant such a reasonable
request, but caused St. Germain to accompany
him, that his absence might not exceed the ap-
pointed time. Previous to his departure the
chief warned us to be constantly on our guard
against the grizzly bears, which he described as

being numerous in this vicinity, and very feroci-

sd

ous; one had been seen to-day by an Indian, to
which circumstance the lake owes its appellation.
We afterwards learned that the only bear in this
part of the country is the brown bear, and that
they by no means possess the ferocity which the
Indians ascribe to them with their usual love of

exaggeration. The fierce grizzly bear, which

frequents the sources of the Missouri, is not found
: #

on the barren grounds.

The shores of this lake and the neighbouring
hills are principally composed of sand and gravel;
they are much varied in their outline and present
some picturesque scenery.

The following ‘observations were taken here:
latitude 64° 15’ 17” N., longitude 113° 2 20-W.;
variation of the compass 36° 50° 47" E. ; and dip
of the needle 87° 20' 35".

On August the 17th, having finished drying the

344 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

meat which had been retarded by the heavy
showers of rain that fell in the morning, we em-
barked at one P.M. and crossed two lakes and
two portages. The last of these was two thou-
sand and sixty-six paces long, and very rugged,
so that the men were much fatigued. On the
next day we received the flesh of four rein-deer
by the small canoe which had been sent for it
yesterday, and heard that the hunters had killed
Several more deer on our route. We saw many -
of these animals as we passed along to-day; and
out companions, delighted with the prospect of
having food in abundance, now began to accom-
pany their padding with singing, which they had
discontinued ever since our. provisions became
scarce. We passed from one small lake to an-
other over four portages, then crossed a lake about
six miles in diameter, and encamped on its border, —
where, finding pines, we enjoyed the luxury of a
good fire, which we had not done for some days.
At ten P.M. the Aurora Borealis appeared very
brilliant in an arch across the zenith, from north-
west to south-east, which afterwards gave place
to a beautiful corona borealis.

August 19.—After crossing a portage of ‘five
hundred and ninety-five paces, a small lake and
another portage of two thousand paces, which
occupied the crews seven hours, we embarked

OF THE POLAR SEA. 345

on a small stream, running towards the north-
west, which carried us to the lake, where Akait-
cho proposed that we should pass the winter.
The officers ascended several of the loftiest hills
in the course of the day, prompted by a natural
anxiety to examine the spot which was to be
their residence for many months. The prospect,
however, was not then the most agreeable, as the
borders of the lake seemed to be scantily fur-
nished with wood, and that of a kind too small
for the purposes of building.

We perceived the smoke of a distant fire which
the Indians suppose had been made by some of
~ the Dog-ribbed tribe, who occasionally visit this
part of the country.

Embarking at seven next morning, we paddled
to the western extremity of the lake, and there
found a small river, which flows out of it to the
S.W. To avoid a strong rapid at its commence-
ment, we made a portage, and then crossed to
the north bank of the river, where the Indians
recommended that the winter establishment
should be erected, and we soon found that the
situation they had chosen possessed all the ad-
vantages we could have desired. The trees
were numerous, and of a far greater size than
we had supposed them to be yesterday. Some
of the pines being thirty or forty feet high, and two
feét in diameter at the root. We determined on

346 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

placing the house on the summit of the bank,
which commands a beautiful prospect of the
surrounding country. The view in the front is
bounded at the distance of three miles, by round-
backed hills ; to the eastward and westward lie
the Winter and Round-rock Lakes, which are
connected by the Winter River, whose banks are
well clothed with pines, and ornamented with a
profusion of mosses, lichens, and shrubs.

In the afternoon we read divine service, and |
offered our thanksgiving to the Almighty for his
goodness in having brought us thus far on our
journey ; a duty which we never neglected, when
stationary on the sabbath.

The united length of the portages we have
crossed, since leaving Fort Providence, is twenty-
one statute miles and a half; and as our men
had to traverse each portage four times, with a
load of one hundred and eighty pounds, and
return three times light, they walked in the whole
upwards of one hundred and fifty miles. The total
length of our voyage from Chipewyan is five

hundred and fifty-three miles *.
Statute Miles.
* Stoney and Slave Rivers Ry
e Lake . ‘ . 107
_. Yellow-Knife hice 156.5 —

= Speen country between thie source of the
— - Yellow-Knife River and Fort Enterprise 29.5

OF THE POLAR SEA. 347

A fire was made on the south side of the river
to inform the chief of our arrival, which spread-
ing before a strong wind, caught the whole wood,
and we were completely enveloped in a cloud of
smoke for the three following days.

On the next morning our voyagers were divided
into two parties, the one to cut the wood for the
building of a store-house, and the other to fetch
the meat as fast as the hunters procured it. An
interpreter was sent with Keskarrah, the guide,
to search for the Indians who had made the fire
seen on Saturday, from whom we might obtain
some. supplies of provision. An Indian was also
despatched to Akaitcho, with directions for him
to come hither directly, and bring whatever pro-
vision he had, as we were desirous of proceeding,
without delay, to the Copper-Mine River. In
the evening our men brought in the carcasses
of-seven rein-deer, which two hunters had shot
yesterday, and the women commenced drying the
meat for our journey. We also obtained a good
supply of fish from our nets to-day.

A heavy rain, on the 23d, prevented the men
from working, either at the building, or going
for meat; but on the next day the weather was
fine, and they renewed their labours. The ther-
mometer, that day did not rise higher than 42°,
and it fell to 31° before midnight. On the morn-

348 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ing of the 25th, we were surprised by some early
symptoms of the approach of winter ; the small
pools were frozen over, and a flock of geese
passed to the southward. In the afternoon, how-
ever, a fog came on, which afterwards changed
into rain, and the ice quickly disappeared. We
suffered great anxiety all the next day respecting
John Hepburn, who had gone to hunt before sun-
rise on the 25th, and had been absent ever since.
About four hours after his departure the wind
changed, and a dense fog obscured every mark
by which his course to the tents could be directed,
and we thought it probable he had been wander-
ing in an opposite direction to our situation, as
the two hunters, who had been sent to look for
him, returned at sunset without having seen him. -
Alninho: semabiaei his party, and we were
at finding they had stored
up aay fifteen rein-deer for us. St. Germain
informed us, that having heard of the death of
the chief's brother-in-law, they had spent several
days in bewailing his loss, instead of hunting.
We learned also, that the decease of this man
had caused another party of the tribe, who had
been sent by Mr. Wentzel to prepare provision
for us on the banks of the Copper-Mine River,
to remove to the shores of the Great Bear Lake,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 349

these circumstances were, they produced less
painful sensations than we experienced in the
evening, by the refusal of Akaitcho to accom-
pany us in the proposed descent of the Copper-
Mine River. When Mr. Wentzel, by my direc-
tion, communicated to him my intention of pro-
ceeding at once on that service, he desired a
conference with me upon the subject, which
being immediately granted, he began by stating,
that the very attempt would be rash and danger-
ous, as the weather was cold, the leaves were

falling, some geese had passed to the southward,

‘and the winter would shortly set in; and that,

as he considered the lives of all who went on
such a journey would be forfeited, he neither
‘would go himself, nor permit his hunters to ac-

‘company us. He said there was no wood within

eleven days’ march, during which time we could
not have any fire, as the moss, which the Indians
use in their summer excursions, would be too wet
for burning, in consequence of the recent rains ;
that we should be forty days in descending the

‘Copper-Mine River, six of which would be ex-

pended in getting to its banks, and that we might

‘be blocked up by the ice in the next moon ; and

during the whole journey the party must ex-

- perience great suffering for want of food, as the
‘rein-deer had already left the river.

350 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

He was now reminded that these statements
were very different from the account he had given,
both at Fort Providence and on the route hither ;
and that, up to this moment, we had been en-
couraged by his conversation to expect that the
party might descend the Copper-Mine River,
accompanied by the Indians. He replied, that
at the former place he had been unacquainted
with our slow mode of travelling, and that the
alteration in his opinion arose from the advance
of winter.

We now informed him that we were provided
with instruments by which we could ascertain the
state of the air and water, and that we did not
imagine the winter to be so near as he supposed ;
however, we promised to return on discovering
the first change in the season. He was also told
that all the baggage being left behind, our canoes,
would now, of course, travel infinitely more ex-
peditiously than any thing he had hitherto wit-
nessed, Akaitcho appeared to feel hurt, that we
should continue to press the matter further, and
answered with some warmth: “ Well, I have said
every thing I can urge, to dissuade you from
going on this service, on which, it seems, you
wish to sacrifice your own lives, as well as the

» Indians who might attend you : however, if after
all I have said, you are determined to go, Some

OF THE POLAR SEA. : 351

of my young men shall join the party, because it
shall not be said that we permitted you to die
alone after having brought you hither ; but from
the moment they embark in the canoes, I and my
relatives shall lament them as dead.”

We could only reply to this forcible appeal, by
assuring him and the Indians who were seated
around him, that we felt the most anxious solici-
tude for the safety of every individual, and that
it was far from our intention to proceed without
considering every argument for and 2 the
proposed journey.

We next informed frie; that it would be very
desirable to see the river at any rate, that we
might give some positive information about its
situation and size, in our next letters to the great
Chief; and that we were very anxious to get on
its banks, for the purpose of observing an eclipse
of the sun, which we described to him, and said
would happen in a few days. He received this
communication with more temper than the pre-
ceding, though he immediately assigned as a rea-

son for his declining to go, that “ the Indians
~ must now procure a-sufficient quantity of deer-
skins for winter clothing for themselves, and
dresses for the Canadians, who would need them
if they had to travel in the winter.” Finding»
him so averse to proceed, and feeling at the same

352 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

time, how essential his continuance with us was,
not only to our future success, but even to our
existence during the winter, [ closed the conver-
sation here, intending to propose to him next
morning, some modification of the plan, which
might meet his approbation. Soon after we were
gone, however, he informed Mr. Wentzel, with
whom he was in the habit of speaking confiden-
tially, that as his advice was neglected, his pre-
sence was useless, and he should, therefore, re-
turn to Fort Providence with his hunters, after he
had collected some winter provision for us. Mr.
Wentzel having reported this to me, the night.
was past in great anxiety, and after weighing all
the arguments that presented themselves to my
mind, I came reluctantly to the determination of
relinquishing the intention of going any distance
down the river this season. I had considered,
that could we ascertain what were the impedi-
ments to the navigation of the Copper-Mine River,
what wood grew on its banks, if fit for boat-
building, and whether drift timber existed where
the country was naked, our operations next sea-
son would be much facilitated ; but we had also —
cherished the hope of reaching the sea this year, for
the Indians in their conversations with us, had only
spoken of two great rapids as likely to obstruct us.
This was a hope extremely painful to give up, for

OF THE POLAR SEA. 353

in the event of success we should have ascertain-
ed whether the sea was clear of ice, and na-
vigable for canoes ; have learned the disposition
of the Esquimaux ; and might have obtained
other information that would have had great in-
fluence on our future proceedings. _

I must confess, however, that my opinion of
the probability of our being able to attain so great
a desideratum this season had been somewhat
altered by the recent changes in the weather, al-
though, had the chief been willing to accom-
pany us with his party, I should have made the
attempt ; with the intention, however, of return-
_ ing immediately upon the first decided appear-
ance of winter.

On the morning of August 27th, having com-
municated my sentiments to the officers, on the
subject of the conference last evening, they all
agreed that the descent to the sea this season
could not be attempted, without hazarding a com-
plete rupture with the Indians ; but they thought
that a party should be sent to ascertain the dis-
tance and size of the Copper-Mine River. These
opinions being in conformity with my own, I de-
termined on despatching Messrs. Back and Hood
on that'service, in a light canoe, as soon as pos-
sible.

We witnessed this morning an instance of the
: 2A

oL. I.

354 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

versatility of our Indian companions, which gave
us much uneasiness, as it regarded the safety of
our faithful attendant Hepburn. When they
heard, on their arrival last night, of his having
been so long absent, they expressed the greatest
solicitude about him, and the whole party im-
mediately volunteered to go in search of him as
soon as daylight permitted. Their resolutions,
however, seemed to have been changed, in con-
Sequence of the subsequent conversation we had
with the chief, and we found all of them indisposed
to proceed on that errand this morning ; and it
was only by much entreaty, that three of the
hunters and a boy were prevailed upon to go.
They fortunately succeeded in their search, and
we were — rejoiced to see Hepburn return
with them in the afternoon, though much jaded
by the fatigue he had undergone. He had got
bewildered, as we had conjectured, in the foggy
weather on the 25th, and had been wandering
about ever since, except during half an hour that
he slept yesterday. He had eaten only a. par-
tridge and some berries, for his anxiety of mind
had deprived him of appetite; and of a deer which
he had shot, he took only the tongue, and the skin
to protect himself from the wind and rain. This
anxiety we learned from him was occasioned by
the fear that the party which was about to de-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 355

scend the Copper-Mine River, might be detained
until he was found, or that it might have departed
without him. He did not entertain any dread
of the white bears, of whose numbers and _fe-

__ Tocious attacks the Indians had been constantly

seaking, since we had entered the barren

~ grounds. Our fears for his safety, however, were

in a considerable degree excited by the accounts
we had received of these animals. Having
made a hearty supper he retired to rest, slept
soundly, and arose next morning in perfect
health. ? :

On the 28th of August Akaitcho was informed
of our intention to send the party to the river, and

of the reasons for doing so, of which he approved,

when he found that I had relinquished the idea of
going myself, incompliance with the desire which
he and the Indians had expressed ; and he im-
mediately said two of the hunters should go to
provide them with food on the journey, and to
serve as guides. During this conversation we
gathered from him, for the first time, that there
might still be some of his tribe near to the river,
from whom the party could get provision. Our.
next object was to despatch the Indians to their
hunting-ground to collect provision for us, and to
procure the fat of the deer for our use during the
winter, and for making the pemmican - should
2A2 |

356 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

require in the spring. They were therefore fur-
nished with some ammunition, clothing, and other
necessary articles, and directed to take their de-
parture as soon as possible.

Akaitcho came into our tent this evening at »
supper, and made several pertinent inquiries pe? age
specting the eclipse, of which we had spoken last
night. He desired to know the effect that would
be produced, and the cause of it, which we en-
deayoured to explain; and, having gained this
information, he sent for several of his companions,
that they might also have it repeated to them.
They were most astonished at our knowing the
time at which this event should happen, and re-
marked, that this knowledge was a striking proof
of the superiority of the whites over the Indians.
We took advantage of this occasion to speak to
them respecting the Supreme Being, who ordered
all the operations of nature, and to impress on
their minds the necessity of paying strict atten-
tion to their moral duties, in obedience to his
will. They readily assented to all these points,
and Akaitcho assured us that both himself and
his young men would exert themselves in obtain-
ing provision for us in return for the interesting
communications we had just made to them.

Having received a supply of dried meat from
the Indian lodges, we were enabled to equip the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 357

party for the Copper-Mine River, and at nine
A.M., on the 29th, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood em-
barked on that service in a light canoe, with St.
Germain, eight Canadians, and one Indian. We
~ could not furnish them with more than eight days’
provision, which, with their blankets, two tents,
and a few instruments, composed their lading.
Mr. Back, who had charge of the party, was di-
rected to proceed to the river, and if, when he
arrived at its banks, the weather should continue
to be mild, and the temperature of the water
was not lower than 40°, he might embark, and
descend the stream for a few days, to gain some
knowledge of its course, but he was not to go so
far as to risk his returning to this place in a fort-
night with the canoe. But, if the weather should
be severe, and the temperature of the water below
40°, he was not to embark, but return immediately,
and endeavour to ascertain the best track for our
goods to be conveyed thither next spring.

We had seen that the water decreases rapidly
in temperature at this season, and I feared that,
if he embarked to descend the river when it was
below 40°, the canoe might be frozen in, and the
crew have to walk back in very severe weather.

As soon as the canoes had started, Akaitcho
and the Indians took their departure also, except
two of the hunters, who staid behind to kill deer

358 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

in our neighbourhood, and old Keskarrah and his
family, who remained as our guests.

The fishing-nets were this day transferred from
the river in which they had been set since our
arrival, to Winter Lake, whither the fish had —
removed, and the fishermen built a log-hut on its
borders to reside in, that they — attend more
closely to their occupation.

The month of September commenced with very
disagreeable weather. The temperature of the
atmosphere ranged between 39° and 31° during
the first three days, and that of the water in the
river decreased from 49° to 44°. Several rein-
deer and a large flight of white geese passed to
the southward. These circumstances led us to
fear for the comfort, if not for the safety, of our
absent friends. On the 4th of September we
commenced building our dwelling-house, having
cut sufficient wood for the frame of it.

In the afternoon of September the 6th, we re-
- moved our tent to the summit of a hill, about
three miles distant, for the better observing the
eclipse, which was calculated to occur on the next
morning. We were prevented, however, from
witnessing it by a heavy snow-storm, and the only
observation we could then make was to examine
whether the temperature of the atmosphere altered
during the i but we found that both the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 359

mercurial and spirit thermometers remained
steadily at 30° for a quarter of an hour previous to
its commencement, during its continuance, and
for half an hour subsequent to its termination ; we
remarked the wind increased very much, and the
snow fell in heavier flakes just after the estimated
time of its commencement. ‘This boisterous
weather continued until three P.M., when the
wind abated, and the snow changed to rain.

As there was now no immediate occasion for
my remaining on the spot, the eclipse being over,
and the Indians having removed to their hunting-
grounds, Dr. Richardson and I determined on
taking a pedestrian excursion to the Copper-Mine
River, leaving Mr. Wentzel in charge of the men,
and to superintend the buildings. On the morn-
ing of September the 9th we commenced our
journey, under the guidance of old Keskarrah, and
accompanied by John Hepburn and Samandré,
who carried our blankets, cooking utensils, hat-
chets, and a small supply of dried meat. Our
guide led us from the top of one hill to the top of
another, making as straight a course to the north-
ward as the numerous lakes, with which the
country is intersected, would permit. At noon
we reached a remarkable hill, with precipitous
sides, named by the Copper Indians the Dog-rib
Rock, and its latitude, 64° 34 52"S., was ob-

&
ae
iti
“ii

360 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

tained. The canoe-track passes to the eastward
of this rock, but we kept to the westward,
as being the more direct course. From the time
we quitted the banks of Winter River we saw
only a few detached clumps of trees ; but after
we passed Dog-rib Rock even these disappeared,
and we travelled through a naked country. In
the course of the afternoon Keskarrah killed a
rein-deer, and loaded himself with its head and
skin, and our men also carried off a few pounds
of its flesh for supper ; but their loads were alto-
gether too great to permit them to take much addi-
tional weight. Keskarrah offered to us as a great
ireat the raw marrow from the hind legs of the
animal, of which all the party ate except myself,
and thought it very good. I was also of the same
opinion, when I subsequently conquered my then
too fastidious taste. We halted for the night on the
borders of a small lake, which washed the base of
a ridge of sand-hills, about three hundred feet high,
having walked in direct distance sixteen miles.
There were four ancient pine-trees here which
did not exceed six or seven feet in height, but
whose branches spread themselves out for several
yards, and we gladly cropped a few twigs to make
a bed and to protect us from the frozen ground,
still white from a fall of snow which took place
_in the afternoon. We were about to cut down

OF THE POLAR SEA. 361

one of these trees for firewood, but our guide
solicited us to spare them, and made us under-
stand by signs that they had been long service-
able to his nation, and that we ought to content
ourselves with a few of the smaller branches. As
soon as we comprehended his request we com-
plied with it, and our attendants having, with
some trouble, grubbed up a sufficient quantity of
the roots of the dwarf birch to make a fire, we
were enabled to prepare a comfortable supper of
rein-deer’s meat, which we despatched with the
appetites travelling in this country never fails to
ensure. We then stretched ourselves out on the
pine brush, and covered by a single blanket,
enjoyed a night of sound repose. The small
quantity of bed-clothes we carried induced us to
sleep without undressing. Old Keskarrah fol-
lowed a different plan ; he stripped himself to the
skin, and having toasted his body for a short time
over the embers of the fire, he crept under his
deer-skin and rags, previously spread out as
smoothly as possible, and coiling himself up in a
circular form, fell asleep instantly. This custom
of undressing to the skin even when lying in the
open air is common to all the Indian tribes. The
thermometer at sunset stood at 29°.

Resuming our journey next morning we pur-
sued a northerly course, but had to make a con-

362 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

siderable circuit round the western ends of two
lakes whose eastern extremities were hidden from
our view. The march was very uncomfortable
as the wind was cold, and there was a constant
fall of snow until noon ; our guide too persisted
in taking us over the summit of every hill that lay
in the route, so that we had the full benefit of
the breeze.

We forded two streams in the afternoon flowing
between small lakes, and being wet, did not much
relish having to halt, whilst Keskarrah pursued a
herd of rein-deer ; but there was no alternative,
as he set off and followed them without consulting
our wishes. The old man loaded himself with
the skin, and some meat of the animal he killed
in addition to his former burden; but after walk-
ing two miles, finding his charge too heavy for his
strength, he spread the skin on the rock, and de-
posited the meat under some stones, intending to
pick them up on our return.

We put up at sunset on the borders of a large
lake, having come twelve miles. A few dwarf
birches afforded us but a scanty fire, yet being
sheltered from the wind by a sandy bank, we
passed the night comfortably, though the tem-
perature was 30°.. A number of geese passed
_ over us to the southward. We set off early next
morning, and marched at a tolerably quick pace.

OF THE POLAR SEA. ; 363

The atmosphere was quite foggy, and our view
was limited to a short distance. At noon, the sun
shone forth for a few minutes, and the latitude
64° 57’ 7” was observed. The small streams
that we have hitherto crossed run uniformly to
the southward.

At the end of sixteen miles and a half we en-
camped amongst a few dwarf pines, and were
much rejoiced at having a good fire, as the night
was very stormy and cold. The thermometer
fluctuated this day between 31° and 35°. Though

following morning was foggy and rainy, we
were not sorry to quit the cold and uncomfortable
beds of rock upon which we had slept, and com-
mence our journey at an early hour. After walk-
ing about three miles, we passed over a steep
sandy ridge, and found the course of the rivulets
running towards the north.and north-west. Our
progress was slow in the early part of the morn-
ing, and we were detained for two hours on the
summit of a hill exposed to a very cold wind,
whilst our guide went in an unsuccessful pursuit
of some rein-deer. After walking a few miles
“farther, the fog cleared away, and Keskarrah
pointed out the Copper-Mine River at a distance,
and we pushed towards it with all the speed we
could put forth. At noon we arrived at an arm

%

364 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

of Point Lake, an extensive expansion of the
river, and observed the latitude 65° 9’ 06” N.
We continued our walk along the south end
of this arm for about a mile further, and then
halted to breakfast amidst a cluster of pines.

Here the longitude, 112° 57’ 25", was observed.

After breakfast we set out and walked along the
east-side of the arm towards the main body of
the lake, leaving Samandré to prepare an en-
campment amongst the pines against our return.
We found the main channel deep, its banks high
and rocky, and the valleys on its borders inter-
spersed with clusters of spruce trees. The latter
circumstance was a source of much gratification
tous. The temperature of its surface water was
41°, that of the air being 43°. Having gained all
the information we could collect from our guide
and from personal observation, we retraced our
steps to the encampment ; and on the way back
Hepburn and Keskarrah shot several waveys
(anas hyperborea,) which afforded us a seasonable
supply, our stock of provision being nearly ex-
hausted. These birds were feeding in large
flocks on the crow-berries, which grew plentifully
on the sides of the hills. We reached the en-
campment after dark, found a comfortable hut
prepared for our reception, made an excellent

OF THE POLAR SEA. 365

supper, and retired to bed, and slept soundly
though it snowed hard the whole night.

The hills in this neighbourhood are higher than
those about Fort Enterprise ; they stand, how-
ever, in the same detached manner, without form-
ing connected ranges; and the bottom of every
valley is occupied, either by a small lake ora
stony marsh. On the borders of such of these
lakes as communicate with the Copper-Mine
River, there are a few groves of spruce trees,
generally growing on accumulations of sand, on
the acclivities of the hills.

We did not quit the encampment on the morn-
ing of September 13th until nine o'clock, in con-
sequence of a constant fall of snow; but at that
hour we set out on our return to Fort Enterprise,
and taking a route somewhat different from the.
one by which we came, kept to the eastward of a
chain of lakes. Soon after noon the weather be-
came extremely disagreeable ; a cold northerly
gale came on, attended by snow and sleet; and
the temperature fell very soon from 43° to 34°.
The waveys, alarmed at the sudden change, flew
over our heads in great numbers to a milder
climate. We walked as quickly as possible to
get to a place that would furnish some fuel and
shelter; but the fog occasioned us to make fre-
quent halts, from the inability of our guide to

366 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

trace his way. At length we came to a spot
which afforded us plenty of dwarf birches, but
they were so much frozen, and the snow fell so
thick, that upwards of two hours were wasted in
endeavouring to make a fire; during which time
our clothes were freezing upon us. At length
our efforts were crowned with success, and after
a good supper, we laid, or rather sat down to
sleep ; for the nature of the ground obliged us to
pass the night in a demi-erect position, with our
backs against a bank of earth. The thermometer
was 16° at six P.M.

After enjoying a more comfortable night’s rest
than we had expected, we set off at day-break :
the thermometer then standing at 18°, The ground
was covered with snow, the small lakes were
frozen, and the whole scene had a wintery appear-
ance. We goton but slowly at first, owing to an
old sprained ankle, which had been very trouble-
some to me for the last three days, and was this
moring excessively painful. In fording a rivu-
let, however, the application of cold water gave
me immediate relief, and I walked with ease the
remainder of the day. In the afternoon we re-
joined our track outwards and came to the place
where Keskarrah had made his deposit of pro-
vision, which proved a very acceptable supply,
as our stock was exhausted. We then crossed

OF THE POLAR SEA. $57

some sand hills, and encamped amidst a few
small pines, having walked thirteen miles.

The comfort of a good fire made us soon in-
sensible to the fatigue we had experienced
through the day, in marching over the rugged
stones, whose surface was rendered slippery by.
the frost. ‘The thermometer at seven P.M. stood
at 27°. . :

We set off at sunrise next morning, and our
provision being expended pushed on as fast as
we could to Fort Enterprise, where we arrived at
eight P.M., almost exhausted by a harassing
day’s march of twenty-two miles. A substantial
supper of rein-deer steaks soon restored our vi-
gour. We had the happiness’ of meeting our
friends Mr. Back and Mr. Hood, who had re-
turned from their excursion on the day succeeding
that on which we set out; and | received from
them the following account of their journey.

They proceeded up the Winter River to the
north end of the Little Marten Lake, and then
the guide, being unacquainted with the route by
water to the Copper-Mine River, proposed that
the canoe should be left. Upon this they as-
cended the loftiest hill in the neighbourhood, to
examine whether they could discover any large
lakes, or water communication in the direction

which the guide pointed the river to be. They

368 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

only saw a small rivulet, which was too shal-
low for the canoe, and also wide of the course;
and as they perceived the crew would have to
carry it over a rugged hilly track, they judiciously
decided on leaving it, and proceeding forwards
on foot. Having deposited the canoe among a
few dwarf birch bushes, they. commenced their
march, carrying the tents, blankets, cooking uten-
sils, and a part of the dried meat. St. Germain,
however, had previously delineated with charcoal,
a man and a house on a piece of bark, which he
placed over the canoe and the few things that
were left, to point out to the Dog-Ribs that they
belonged to white people.

_ The party reached the shores of Point Lake,
through which the Copper-Mine River runs, on
the Ist of September. The next day was too
stormy for them to march, but on the 3d, they
proceeded along its shores to the westward, round
a mountainous promontory, and perceiving the
course of the lake extending to the W.N.W.,
they encamped near some pines, and then first
enjoyed the luxury of a good fire, since their de-
parture from us. The temperature of the water
in the lake was 35°, and of the air 32°, but the
latter fell to 20° in the course of that night. -As
their principal object was to ascertain whether
any arm of the lake branched nearer to Fort

OF THE POLAR SEA, . 369

Enterprise than the part they had fallen upon, to
which the transport of our goods could be more
easily made next spring, they returned on its
borders to the eastward, being satisfied, by the
appearance of the mountains between south and
west, that no further examination was necessary
in that direction ; and they continued their mareh
until the 6th at noon, without finding any part of
the lake inclining nearer the fort. They there-
fore encamped to observe the eclipse, which was to
take place on the following morning; but a violent
snow storm rendering the observation impossible,
they commenced their return, and after a comfort-
less and laborious march regained their canoe on
the 10th, and embarking in it, arrived the same
evening at the house.

Point Lake varied, as far as they traced, from
one to three miles in width. Its main course was
nearly east and west, but several arms branched
off in different directions. I was much pleased

with the able manner in which these officers ex-
ecuted the service they had been despatched
upon, and was gratified to learn from them, that
their companions had conducted themselves ex-
tremely well, and borne the fatigues of their
journey most cheerfully. They scarcely ever had
more than sufficient fuel to boil the kettle; and
were generally obliged to lie down in their wet
Vou. I. 2B

370 JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

clothes, and consequently, suffered much from
cold.

The distance which the parties have travelled,
in their journey to and from Point Lake, may be
estimated at one hundred and ten statute miles,
which being added to the distances given in the
preceding pages, will amount to one thousand
five hundred and twenty miles that the expedition
has travelled in 1820, up to the time of its resi-
dence at Fort Enterprise.

END OF VOL. f.