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ASCERTAIN THE MOST PRACTICABLE AND ECONOMICAL ROUTE FOR A RAILRO.

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G 10 ACIS OF CONGRESS OF MARCH 3, 1853, MAY 31, 1854, AND AUGUST 5, 1854.

Appropria
for completing the reports of surveys already made, ihe sum of one hundred and fifty t tho

IN SENATE—FEBRUARY 24, 1855.

Resolved, 'That there be printed, for the use of the Senate, ten thousand copies of the several reporta of surveys for a rail-
road to the Pacific, made under the direction of the Secretary of War; and also of the report of F. W. Lander, civil engi-
neer, of a survey of a railroad route from Puget's Sound, by Fort Hall and the Great Salt lake, to the Mississippi river ; and
ihe report of John C. Frémont, E a route for a railroad from the head-waters of the Arkansas river into the State of Cali-
fornia ; together with the maps and plates accompanying said reports, necessary to illustrate the same; and that five
hundred copies be printed for the use of the ون‎ of War, and fifty copies for each of the commanding officers engaged
in said service.

Attest: ` ASBURY DICKINS, Secretary.

THIRTY-SECOND CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION—Chaprer 98.
Secr. 10. And be it further enacted, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby authorized, under the direction of the
President of the United States, to employ such portion of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and such other persons as
he may deem necessary, to make such explorations and surveys as he may deem advisable, to ascertain the most ae
and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, and that the sum of one hundred a
fifty thousand dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, be, and the same is hereby, appropriated out of any money
the treasury not otherwise appropriated, to defray the expense of such explorations and surveys.
Approved March 3, 1853.
— oe CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuarrer 60.
۲ : For deficiencies i ihe railroad surveys between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean, forty thou-
gand dollars
Approved Ne 31, 1854. : $ .
"s THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuarrer 267.
tion: For شاوی‎ the explorations and surveys to ascertain the best route for a railway to the Pacific, and
usand dollars.

Approved — 5, 1854.

CONTENTS OF VOLUME

۷ ? E

-FIFTH AND PAR
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Da

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_ REPORT OF LIEUTENANT R. 8. WILLIAMSON, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

REPORT

EXPLORATIONS IN CALIFORNIA

RAILROAD ROUTES,

TO CONNECT WITH

THE ROUTES NEAR THE 35TH AND 32D PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE,

LIEUTENANT R. 8. WILLIAMSON,

CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS.

1853.

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LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR.

WASHINGTON, December 31, 1854.

Sir: I have the honor herewith to submit to you the following report of a reconnaissance
and surveys on partial routes in California, connected with surveys for ascertaining the most
practicable railroad route from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean.

I present in connexion with this report a geological report by Mr. W. P. Blake, geologist
and mineralogist of the expedition, illustrated by maps, sections, and views.

Dr. A. L: Heermann, the physician and naturalist of the expedition, made a large natural
history collection ; and among the fish, reptiles, and plants are found many species hitherto
unknown. The collection of California birds is a very fine one, it containing more than one
hundred and twenty species.

These collections in different departments of natural history have been examined, and the
descriptions, accompanied by figures, will appear in a separate volume. Dr. Heermann will
present a report on the birds ; Professor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, on the
mammalia; Dr. E. Hallowell on the reptiles; and Charles Girard on the fish. The plants will
be described by Dr. Hilgard and Mr. Durand, of Philadelphia.

The sketches which accompany this report were made by Charles Koppel, assistant civil
engineer, and they will serve as aids in forming a correct idea of the nature of the country.

I have to thank my associates in this survey for the great interest they took in the expe-
dition, and the cheerful and thorough manner in which the work was performed. Lieutenant
Stoneman, commanding the escort, rendered me every assistance in his power. Lieutenant
Parke was of very great assistance to me, taking charge of a party whenever the main party
was divided, which was generally the case. Mr. Smith proved himself to be a very competent
civil engineer. The reports of Dr. Heermann and Mr. Blake at once show the nature of their
labors, and the manner in which they were performed. In fact, every member of the party
was unceasing in his endeavors to advance the objects of the expedition.

I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
3 |. R.S. WILLIAMSON,
Lieutenant U. S. Top. Engineers.
Hon. JEFFERSON Davis,
Secretary of War.

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GENERAL TABLE OF CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WAR DEPARTMENT.

PART I.

REPORT.

PART I.

GEOLOGICAL REPORT:
By W. P. Braker, Esq., Geologist and Mineralogist to the Expedition.
E

FART HI"
BOTANICAL REPORT:
By Mr, E. Duran» and T. C. Hırcarp, M. D.

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PART IV.

ZOOLOGICAL REPORT.

No. 1.—Mammals, by Professor S. F. BARD.

No. 2.—Birds, by Dr. A. L. HEERMAN, Modi and Naturalist to the Expedition.
No. 3.— Reptiles, by Dr. Bowarp HALLOWELL.

No. 4.—Fishes, by Dr. CHARLES GIRARD.

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX A.
DISTANCES AND ALTITUDES.
APPENDIX B.
LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES.
APPENDIX C.
DATA FOR PROFILES.

"fus.

INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WAR DEPARTMENT.

Wan DEPARTMENT, Washington, May 6, 1853.

Under the 10th and 11th sections of the military appropriation act approved March 3, 1853,
directing such explorations and surveys to be made as might be deemed necessary * to ascertain
the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific
ocean,”” it has been determined to organize a party to operate in California, to survey and
explore the country lying west of the lower Colorado, and a route connecting that portion of
California with the Pacific ocean.

I. The party for this exploration and survey will be commanded by Lieutenant R. 8.
Williamson, topographical corps, who will be aided by Lieutenant J. G. Parke, topographical
corps, and hy the following civil assistants, viz: one mineralogist and geologist ; one physician
and naturalist; two civil engineers; one draughtsman: who, in addition to their stipulated
compensation, will be allowed the actual cost of their transportation to and from California.
Packers, &c., will be employed in California, at prices not exceeding those paid by the Quarter-
master's department for such employés.

II. The party will rendezvous at Denicia, in California, and, having organized, will proceed
to examine the passes of the Sierra Nevada leading from the San Joaquin and Tulare valleys,
and subsequently explore the country to the southeast of the Tulare lakes, to ascertain the most
direct practicable railroad route between Walker's Pass, or such other pass as may be found
preferable, and the mouth of the Gila; from this point the survey will be continued to San Diego.

III. In this exploration, great attention will be paid to every point connected with the loca-
tion of a railroad. A general profile of the route explored will be determined by means of
barometric measurements; and, generally, the topography, meteorology, geology, natural
history, the character of the Indian tribes of the country, &c., will be studied as closely as
circumstances will permit.

IV. The commanding general of the Pacific division will assign an escort of mounted troops
to accompany the expedition, consisting of not less than three non-commissioned officers and
twenty-five privates. Picked men and horses only will be sent on this duty; and the com-
manding officer of the escort will be instructed to furnish Lieutenant Williamson such aid and
assistance as will tend to facilitate his operations. "Transportation for the provisions, equipage,
&c., of the escort, will be furnished by the Quartermaster's department.

V. Lieutenant George B. Anderson will be detailed for duty with Lieutenant Williamson's
party.

VI. The Quartermaster and Commissary departments will furnish to Lieutenant Williamson
such animals, equipments, stores, provisions, and other public property, as he may need for the
use of the expedition, and which can be spared, to be paid for out of the appropriation for the
survey, at cost at the places of delivery. On the requisitions of Lieutenant Williamson, the
Ordnance department will furnish arms, &c., and the Medical department medicines, &c., for
his party.

VII. The object of the expedition having been accomplished, all employés whose services
may be no longer required will be discharged, and Lieutenant Williamson, with the office
corps, will proceed to prepare as full a report as possible, to be laid before Congress, as required
by the act above cited, on or before the first Monday in February next, to be followed at a later
period by a more elaborate report, showing in full the results of the expedition.

VIII. The sum of thirty thousand dollars is set apart, from the appropriation, for the expenses
of the survey thus intrusted to Lieutenant Williamson.

JEFFERSON DAVIS,
rers of War.
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31V1d

“149 'SA3AUnS 9 dX3 Y Y ‘d's

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
WAR DEPARTMENT.

H AND THIRTY-SECOND (URS

ROUTES IN CALIFORNIA, TO CONNECT WITH THE ROUTES NEAR THE THIRTY-F
LORED BY LIEUT. R. S. WILLIAMSON, CORPS OF nob cKLEENUE ENGINEERS, IN 1853.

CONTENTS.

1 > Page

Organization of party a. 7
General remarks : 8
From Benicia to Livermore’s P 9
Livermore’s Pass i 11
San Joaquin valley : 12
Tulare valley 13
Depot Camp—Future plans 14
Walker's Pass x 14
Hum-pah-ya-mup Pass 18
Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass 18
'The Tejon 20
'The Tejon Pass 22
The Caüada de las Uvas 25
General remarks on the passes of the Sierra Nevada 26
The Great Basin 27
San Francisquito Pass 28
New Pass 29
Mobave river 30
Mr. Smith's survey 34
San Fernando Pass 35 e
Cajon Pass 35
Lieutenant Parke’s route—San Gorgonio Pass 36

’s Pass 33
Colorado Dese: 40
General deductions 41

| Concluding remarks TR 43

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ILLUSTRATIONS.

I. MAPS ۰

II. PLATES AND Woop ENGRAVINGS. *

L Lithogra, phs,
Page.
۳۰۸۲8 I. View of Benicia from the west, تا ناخ‎
. Entrance of Livermore’s Pass 12
nur. Plain between the San Joaquin and King’s rivers I2
e IV. iud of the Kah-wee-ya river (Four Creeks) 15
Plain between Kah-wee-ya and King’s river 13
YI. Evene of the Tejon Pass and a portion of the Tejon 21
vit. Mountains near the entrance of the Cafiada de las Uvas 26
vur. The Great Basin from the Cañada de las Uvas, with Lost Mountains in the distance 26
1x. Lost Mountain in the Great Basin 21
x. Los Angeles 35
xr. Colorado Desert and Signal Mountain 40
xit Mission of San Diego 41
2. Wood Engravings.

1. Straits of Carquines and Martinez, as seen from Benicia : 9
iab lle 10
3. Livermore's Valley 11
A: Tejon Indians 20
5. Tulare Valley, from the summit of the Tejon Pass 23
6. Side Ravine in the Tejon Pass 24
7. Tulare Valley and the entrance to the Caüada de las Uvas 25
8. Lake Elizabeth, San Francisquito Pass 28
n rance of New Pass 29

10. Mormon Settlement in the San Bernardino Valley, with a view of the peaks of San Bernardino and San
Gorgonio 36
11. San Gorgonio Mountain 37
12. Pass between San Felipe and Vallecito 39

* From original sketches in the field by Mr. Charles Koppel

ORGANIZATION OF PARTY.

The instructions from the War Department were received by me on the day after their date,
and I immediately took steps for forming the party, and collecting the material necessary for
the successful prosecution of the duties assigned to me; and knowing the importance of the
utmost despatch, as the season must necessarily be far advanced before we could reach California,
I deferred all the preparations that could be made while the outfit was being prepared, and
taking with me only such instruments as I knew could not be procured there, I embarked with
my party at New York on the 20th May, on board the steamer Illinois, bound for Aspinwall.

The party which embarked with me consisted of Lieutenant J. G. Parke, topographical
engineers ; Lieutenant G. B. Anderson, 2d dragoons; Dr. A. L. Heermann, physician and
naturalist; Mr. Isaac Williams Smith, civil engineer; Mr. Charles Koppel, assistant civil
engineer and artist; Mr. Charles Preuss, draughtsman. Lieutenant George Stoneman, Ist
dragoons, who had been detailed to command my escort, was also on board.

It will be perceived that an important member of the party, the mineralogist and geologist,
was absent. I had used every exertion to obtain one, writing to many persons who had been
recommended to me, but could find no one to fill this important post. My only resource was to
request Professor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institute, to endeavor to engage some
one for me, who would follow at a later period. Thanks to the kindness of this gentleman,
and much to my satisfaction, Mr. W. P. Blake was engaged, and he arrived at San Francisco
a fortnight after us, and has since filled the vacant post.

The party arrived safely in San Francisco on the 20th of June, the only incident of note to
us that occurred on the voyage being the illness of Lieutenant Anderson. This officer was
attacked with fever shortly after leaving Panama, and arrived in San Francisco in a precarious
state—so much so that the surgeon considered it would be dangerous for him to accompany us
in the field. I therefore was forced to dispense with his services, but am happy to be able to
state that he has since perfectly recovered.

- I immediately repaired to Benicia, where preparations were at once commenced for fitting out
the party. Such instruments as were required beyond those brought from New York were
either obtained from the topographical office or purchased in San Francisco. A spring-wagon
for their transportation was purchased. Four six-mule teams were furnished by the quarter-
master for transportation of stores and baggage. Five teamsters and eight additional men for
general duty as field-men and cooks were hired. In the mean time the escort had arrived, and
it was found that to render it efficient it would be necessary to remount the men, whose horses,
worn out in service, were condemned. Mules for this purpose were purchased by order of the
20

8 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF COUNTRY.

commanding general of the division. In fine, all the preparations were completed, and the
party ready to leave Benicia, on the 10th of July.
+

GENERAL REMARKS.

Before proceeding to give a detailed narrative of our work in the field, I think it would tend
to a more clear understanding of the subject if I were to give a concise description of the great
topographical features of the country about to be examined, and the main objects, as I under-
stood them, to be attained by this survey.

Benicia, the depot where the party was fitted out, is the northernmost point mentioned in my
instructions. This town is situated on the Straits of Carquines, through which the waters of
the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers flow into San Francisco bay and the Pacific. From
these straits to the southward, following the general course of the coast, is a range of moun-
tains, extending beyond the southern boundary of this State into the peninsula of Lower
California. This range often presents the appearance of several ridges, sometimes parallel,
sometimes nearly at right angles; but there is one line, or water-shed, nearly parallel to the
coast, and distant from it from 50 to 70 miles, which is unbroken by any water-course from San
Francisco bay to Lower.California. From this water-shed numerous short streams flow, mean-
dering between the spurs or secondary ridges of the one great and continuous range, and
forming rich and fertile valleys. This range varies in height from 800 to 5,000 or 6,000 feet.
It is generally known as the Coast range, and this will be understood as its meaning where this
term is used in this report. |

If from Benicia we travel due east for about 120 miles, we will be at the summit of a much
higher range than the one last mentioned, and following its water-shed southwardly, we find it
gradually approaches the coast, until, in latitude 35? 20' N., it actually joins itself to the Coast
range, and the two are blended into one.

This is the Sierra Nevada, and varies in height from 4,000 to 8,000 and 10,000 feet. These
mountains have a numerous population of miners, and though they have not been examined
instrumentally but at two or three points, they have been so thoroughly ** prospected ”by the
miners, that it is well known in the latitude of Benicia they are high and rugged, whereas near
their junction with the Coast range they are much lower.

Mr. Blake considers the mountains south of this point of junction as the prolongation of the
Sierra Nevada rather than the Coast range, and in his report he has proposed the name Zernar-
dino Sierra for that portion of the chain extending from the end of the Sierra Nevada to the
peak of San Bernardino.

Between the western base of the Sierra and the eastern base of the Coast range is the vast
plain of the San Joaquin and Tulare valleys, being 300 railes long, and averaging 65 miles in
breadth. These valleys are well watered by numerous streams flowing from the Sierra, though
not one of consequence reaches them from the Coast range. The result of this is, that the
traveller going along the western side of these valleys will find no stream, while on the eastern
side he will find one every few miles. In the southern part of the plain are several lakes, called
the Tulare lakes, and hence this part receives the name of the Tulare valley ; while farther
north, the San Joaquin river, coming from the Sierra, flows through the middle of its valley—a
continuation of the other—in a northwest direction, receiving numerous tributaries from the east.

To the east of both the Sierra and Coast range, the country is very little known, and very

Mist Dc RUE i و‎ ee

ROUTE FROM BENICIA TO LIVERMORE'S. 9

different accounts have been given of it by the few who have explored small portions of it. It
has been represented by many as being in parts vast plains, while others, who have explored
perhaps different parts, make it very broken ánd mountainous. No streams flow from it through
the Coast range; and as most of the streams known to exist in it are known to lose themselves,
it has been called, very properly, the ** Great Basin."

It is evident that any railroad approaching the Pacific coast from the east must cross a portion
of this Great Basin, when it will reach either the base of the Sierra Nevada or the Coast range,
and, to reach the ocean, it must cross one or both of them. One main object of this survey is
to ascertain if a railroad can cross the Sierra and Coast range; the other to seniors the Great
Basin, to ascertain its adaptability for such constructions.

As it is well known there is no impediment to the construction of a road to the Tulare "dd
from the waters of San Francisco bay, in order to accomplish the above objects I determined to
proceed at once to the head of that valley, where the Sierra is supposed to be the lowest, and
there examine all the passes leading into it.

FROM BENICIA TO LIVERMORE’S.

Benicia, formerly the capital of the State of California, is situated on the Straits of Carquines,
which connect Suisun and San Pablo bays. It is on the north side of these straits, and is

STRAITS OF CARQUINES AND MARTINEZ, AS SEEN FROM BENICIA,
twenty-five miles above San Francisco. Adjoining the town is a military post and arsenal,
and the principal depot of quartermaster and commissary stores for the department of the
Pacific.

10 MARTINEZ, AND MONT DIABLO.

The depot and machine-shops of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company are also at this place,
A view of a portion of the town and the landing is presented in Plate I. The double peak ct
Monte Diablo, distant fifteen miles, is seen in the background.

On the 10th of July I left Benicia, crossing my train and party to Martinez in the little ferry-
boat which plies across the straits.

This town is situated in a pretty little valley, having a range of low hills on either hand—
that on the east separating it from the San Joaquin valley. To reach this latter, from
Martinez, on horizontal ground, would be very easy—following the shore of the bay and
turning the point of hills. But this route would be rather circuitous, and I therefore preferred
to take the ordinary road, and cross the Coast range more to the south, at a pass known as
Livermore’s ; which pass I believed would, upon examination, prove a practicable one. The
whole of the first day was occupied in crossing our teams and mules, and the next morning we
moved, in a southeasterly direction, up the little creek upon which Martinez is built. To our
left was Monte Diablo, a fine peak in the Coast range, and nearly 4,000 feet hizh—the highest
for a long distance. At its base is the finest and most beautiful valley in this vicinity, about
fifteen miles long and three or four broad. It is covered with oaks, and is somewhat celebrated
for its excellent quarries of limestone.

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MONTE PIABLO VALLEY.
In proceeding towards Livermore's valley, we have a range of hills on either hand ; that on
the right abounding in red-wood.. Several saw-mills are established there, and supply San
Francisco with large quantities of lumber. Our road was in the intermediate valley, which is

سوه

LIVERMORE’S PASS. 11

from one-half to two miles wide, and, to the eye, perfectly level. We are, however, at first
ascending the little stream which waters Monte Diablo valley, and subsequently get upon
ground descending in the contrary direction. The greater part of Livermore's valley is of a
gravelly soil, and unfit for cultivation.

It is used principally as a cattle rancho, and numerous herds were grazing on different parts
of the plain as we passed. This valley is about eleven miles long and six broad. A view of
its surface is presented in the annexed wood-cut.

Several beds of streams intersect it, which in winter may be called rivers, but in summer are
perfectly dry. The banks of these are well timbered with cotton-wood and oak, but elsewhere
no timber is to be seen. Springs abound at the base of the hills. "The waters of this valley
accumulate at its western end, forming a lake, from which the water, after flowing through a
cañon in the hills, finds its way to San Francisco bay.

LIVERMORE'S PASS.

On the afternoon of July 13 we reached Livermore's house, and encamped. at a spring about
a mile in its rear, and nearly four miles from the entrance of the pass. Here I determined to
stop a sufficient length of time to enable me to make a survey of the pass, in which is the
wagon-road usually travelled by those going from San José to the lower San Joaquin valley ;
and for this reason this pass is much better known than several others lying a little to the south
of it. There is, however, good cause for supposing that some of these other passes are better
adapted for a railroad than the one known as Livermore's. The hills here are destitute of

12 SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY.

timber, and in the spring covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats. As the season
advances, the rain ceases, and the burning sun converts the once green hills into barren-looking
mounds. These hills are rounded, and so symmetrical as to give them an artificial appearance.

The three following days were consumed in making a survey of the pass. The spring-wagon
was taken to carry the odometer, and the courses were taken with a prismatic compass, on a
small tripod, while at every prominent point a reading of the barometer was taken. We found
the entrance to the pass to be 481 feet above the level of the sea, and its summit 686 feet, while
the altitude of the eastern base of the hills was but 89 feet. This gave a grade of about 60
feet in ascending from the west, and 87 feet in descending towards the east. "There would be
little difficulty in winding, and thus increasing this distance, to reduce those grades, should it
be desirable. Upon reaching the summit, the wagon-road does not at once cross and commence
the descent, but continues to ascend more than 200 feet more, in order to find better ground
for wheeled vehicles. If it were desired to construct a railroad over these hills, I have little
doubt that a proper examination would result in the discovery of much better places than this
pass, although this is determined to be practicable. The rounded hills interlocking, cause the
road to be exceedingly tortuóus, and it would require a great deal of excavation and embank-
ment to make curves with a sufficiently large radius.

SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY.

On the 17th we left camp early, and went through the pass with the wagons without much
difficulty, and camped at the eastern base of the hills, near a solitary house, which is known as
Elkhorn post office. From here we had, to the east, the broad expanse of the San Joaquin
valley. The river had overflowed its banks, and the valley was one vast sheet of water, from
25 to 30 miles broad, and approaching within four to five miles of the hills. It had been my
intention to cross at the lower ferry and follow up the eastern side of the valley ; but this was
evidently impossible. The first point on the river which presents banks high enough to pre-
.vent an overflow is at Grayson, one of the cities of California, which looks very well on paper,
but in which there are but two houses at present. It is two or three miles above the mouth of
the Tuolumne river, the principal branch of the San Joaquin, and 27 miles southeast of
Elkhorn. About a mile above Grayson a ferry has been established, and here we crossed with
our teams and animals, (the work of a whole day,) and camped on the Tuolumne, five or six
miles from its mouth.

This river, as indeed are all the rivers flowing into the San Joaquin and the lakes, is fringed
with trees. In the summer and autumn, when the water is low, these trees are 20 and 30 feet
above the river; but in the spring, when the snow melts, the waters rise very rapidly, and often
overflow their roots. Extensive side-channels or ‘‘sloughs’’ are thus formed, and these are
most numerous near the mouths of the streams. On this account permanent bridges crossing
these streams must be much longer than otherwise. There is no difficulty in finding good
points for crossing. The Tuolumne would require a bridge from 200 to 300 feet. We followed
up this river for 25 miles, when we struck the ordinary wagon-road, and thence proceeded to
Fort Miller, a military post on the San Joaquin, in the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada. As
there is no doubt of the practicability of constructing a railroad to the extreme head of the
Tulare valley, I do not think it expedient to enter into a detailed description of this vast plain,
but refer to the few remarks at the commencement of this report, and the maps and tables
accompanying it, for such geographical and topographical information as may be required.

U.S.P. R. R. EXP- & SURVEYS.-CAL. >

T. Sinclair's lith, Phil® | :

ENTRANCE OF LIVERMORES PASS

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TULARE VALLEY. 13

The plains between the streams are destitute of foliage, and the soil generally gravelly and
poor. It is very dry in summer from the effects of the sun, but in winter it absorbs vast quan-
tities of water, and becomes so soft as often to prevent the passage of vehicles, or even animals.

We were obliged to stay at Fort Miller a week, to have our wagons repaired, and to have
many of our mules shod, there not having been time to do this at Benicia. We also here
obtained an additional supply of provisions and quartermaster’s stores. This post is distant,
by the way we travelled, 174 miles from Martinez.

TULARE VALLEY.

Having completed all our arrangements on Saturday, July 30, the next day we bid good-bye
to our friends at the fort, and long before daylight were on the road, to advance to King’s river,
over a dry, barren plain, on which not a drop of water was to be found ; and the heat of the
sun may be imagined, knowing the fact that the thermometer had stood the day previous at
Fort Miller at 115° Fahrenheit in the shade. We had the pleasure of meeting on the road
Mr. Senator Gwin, returning from a trip to the Tejon Pass, where he had been to examine
personally the adaptation of the country for a railroad. King’s river, called on many maps
Lake Fork, is a deep and rapid stream, about eighty yards wide. When it first emerges from
the mountains it divides itself into seven or eight different streams, which reunite near the
place we struck it. From there to its delta near the lake it has only one bed. An American
had established a ferry about twelve miles below our camp, and having marched there, we
occupied the rest of the day in crossing.

The next stream we came to was the Pi-pi-yu-na, or Kah-wée-ya, and very commonly known
as the Four Creeks. Immediately upon leaving the mountains, like King's river, it divides
itself into several streams ; but, unlike those of that river, they do not unite, but continue to
diverge, forming a delta, whose base is over fifteen miles long. The whole of this delta is
covered with a luxuriant growth of oak. The soil is rich, producing spontaneously many kinds
of grasses. The contrast between this beautifully-green spot and the arid plains on each side is
very striking. is well shown by Plates IV and V, which are views taken from the same point.
Plate IV is a view looking eastward towards the Sierra Nevada, whose snow-capped summits
are seen in the distance, and the bottom land of the river, covered with timber, is seen in the
foreground. Plate V isa view in the opposite direction, and shows the arid plains between the
Kah-wee-ya and King’ s river.

The Kah-wöe-ya is divided into four small streams where the road crosses, the extreme ones
being four and a half miles apart: Two of them, though narrow, are quite deep, and required
bridging. =

This delta is fast ling up with American settlers. Already on the second creek is the town

le, which ; however, when we passed, contained but one house. Here I was fortunate.
enough to meet wit Mr nn PAD. a most excellent and eg mountaineer, and

been podi for en ee eks. í ai to him to accompany me, ii he finally pu

with the understanding tl T ae to be allowed to leave as soon as Mr. Beale should arrive.
Leaving Woodville, we continued i in a southeast direction, travelling for seventy miles near

the base of the mountains, and crossing numerous small streams, or dry beds of streams, when

14 DEPOT CAMP—WALKEB/S PASS.

we came, August 6, to O-co-ya, or Pose creek, seven miles north of Kern river. We learned
from Godey and others tx t on Kern river there was 10 grass, while here we had fine grass in
abundance. We were now near the head of the valley, and the passes to be examined, and I
therefore determined to select this point for a depot camp, from which future operations would
be conducted.

DEPOT CAMP—FUTURE PLANS.

O-co-ya creek, at this season, is not here a running stream, but water in holes is found in
abundance, and is very good. I am told it never fails entirely.

My plan was to go with a small party first to Wa'ker's Pass, and having examined it from
bas? to base, to return to the summit, and from thence follow, as closely as the configuration of
the country would permit, the water-shed, or ‘‘ backbone" of the mountains, till I had reached
the point where the Sierra and Coast range unite. I would by this means be certain of seeing

və y ep: s: on in the mountains. I would then endeavor to ascertain the accessibility of these

depressions from either base. By this plan I supposed I would gain a good knowledge of the
general character of the Sierra in this vicinity, and would be able to select judiciously the best
passes for minute survey.

'The question as to the comparative value of a barometric profile, as compared with one made
from measurements with the level, was one that had never been answered definitely. We knew
that the results would not coincide exactly, but the limit of probable error had not been deter-
mined. If, therefore, I should survey one or more of the passes with both instruments, and,
comparing the results, find that they agreed closely, it would be presumptive evidence that those
profiles, made from barometric measurements alone, would agree equally as close; whereas, if
a great disagreement was found, it would show that the barometric profiles were not reliable.
For these reasons I resolved to run a line of levels, from base to base of the Sierra, through one or
more passes, as the results of the preliminary reconnaissance might determine. I was aware that
this would occupy several weeks; but as the bearing of the result would not be upon the one pass
only, but upon every one examined during the survey, and perhaps upon the barometrie profiles
of the other parties whose extended lines did not permit them to use the level, I believed the
time could not be devoted to a better object.

While the preliminary examination was going on, the wagon-train was to return empty to
Fort Miller, to obtain a further supply of provisions and barley, and Lieutenant Stoneman,
with that portion of the escort not otherwise engaged, was to remain in Depot camp to guard
the stores and other property left there.

On the morning of August 10, the wagon-train started from Fort Miller; and I, accompanied
by Lieutenant Parke, Mr. Smith, civil engineer, Mr. Preuss. ER uds: Mr. Godey, as
guide, and five men of my party, started for the passes in the mountains. We had an escort
of a corporal and nine men. We carried with us two barometers, besides the aneroid, a sextant,
and the other usual instruments for a surveying party. In giving the result of the reconnais-
sance, I will, for more convenient reference, separate it under different heads, according to the
pass to which the particular part may refer.

WALKER'S PASS.

Upon leaving camp we followed up Pose creek till it took a bend coming from the northeast,
when we left it and took up a dry branch, with here and there a spring, our general course

‘ WALKER’S PASS. 15

being a little north of east. We could see the open valley of Kern river to the south and
southwest. Higher up, this river cafions; and it was to avoid this cation that we were
obliged to keep the ridge, where there is a good pack-trail, but impracticable for wagons. We
camped in a little hollow in the mountain, and the barometer indicated the altitude above Depot
camp to be 3,400 feet. As we had descended somewhat to find a camping-place, the highest
point we passed over must have been over 4,000 feet above that camp, or nearly 5,000 feet above
the level of the sea. Directly opposite us, on the other side of the river, was a mountain which
we called Cañon mountain, still higher than the one we were on; and these two mountains,
approaching each other with precipitous side-slopes, formed the cañon above mentioned.

The next day, after ascending a short distance, we began to descend. We could see the river
far below us, white with foam, looking like a thread of silver as it dashed among the rocks
with a very rapid current. There was the appearance of a large valley at the base of the mount-
ain. Godey told us that the river there received a tributary, and that it was near the head of
that stream that we should find Walker's Pass. The descent was very steep ; so much so that
in many places it was dangerous to ride, and it was more easy to slide down than to walk. We
arrived on the banks of the river, at the base of the hill, just in time to allow me to get a series
of cireummeridian altitudes of the sun, about half a mile below the mouth of the branch.

The river was very rapid, and apparently deep. We tried to find a ford in several places,
but did not succeed till we had gone up stream three miles ; and here the water came nearly up
to the mules' backs. To keep our packs dry we had to have them carried across by the men.
After crossing, we went up the valley of the creek for four or five miles, and made a camp in
fine grass on its banks, The valley is from one to three miles wide, with a poor soil, except in
the bottoms near the creek, where the grass grows luxuriantly. Following up the valley,
which averaged more than a mile in width, with a gentle ascent, gradually increasing all the
way, we found, about twelve miles from the mouth of the creek, a small branch coming in from
the south, now dry, but having apparently along and wide valley. Five miles further, the
creek, now a small brook, came from the mountains to the north, while from the southwest
there was an open valley from a quarter to half a mile in width. This valley we followed up;
and having arrived within a mile and a half of the summit, we were fortunate enough to find
a fine spring and plenty of coarse grass. Here we made our camp; and, it being early in the
afternoon, I rode up to the summit, where I had a fine view of the basin. There appeared to
the eastward a strip, twenty or thirty miles wide, of unbroken ground; and beyond this the
view was limited by masses of mountains. The pass is nowhere less than a quarter of a mile
wide, and the ascent and descent both gradual. In fact, it is an excellent natural wagon-road.
The mountains on either side are composed mostly of granite, and are rough and precipitous.

There were quite a number of Indians, both on the creek and at the spring near our camp.
At first they fled, but soon gained confidence, and came into camp. They seemed at this season
of the year to be principally employed in collecting a kind of bulrush or cane, upon the leaves
of which is found a substance very like sugar, which to them is a not unimpertant article of
food. "They cut the cane and spread it in the sun to dry, and afterwards, by threshing, separate
the sugar from the leaf. The cane itself had no sweet taste. As the creek had no name that
I knew of, I endeavored to ascertain its Indian name, and found it to be Chay-o-poo-ya-püh— -
the accent strong on the last syllable. This name I have adopted on the map. I understand
it to mean the creek of the bulrushes. ۱

The following day was occupied in examining the pass fully, and obtaining data for making

30

16 WALKER S PASS.

a barometrie profile. We descended from the summit more than eight miles, and found the
belt of unbroken ground to extend as far as we could see along the base of the mountains, in
both directions. I will now state the results of the subsequent calculations of our observations,
from which an opinion of the practicability of the pass for railroad purposes may be formed.

Starting from Kern river, at the m uth of Chay-o-poo-ya-päh, and ascending to the point
where the latter comes from the mountains, a distance of 17 miles, we have a gentle ascent,
viz: 5$ miles on a grade of 13 feet per mile, 61 miles of 29 feet per mile, and the remaining
5 miles at 17 feet per mile. From here over the summit to the point we reached in the basin
is 161 miles, and this part may be considered the pass proper. Here the grades are of an
entirely different character. We have for the first 64 miles (which brings us to our camp)
an average grade of 272 feet to the mile—less than this at first, but gradually increasing as the
summit is approached ; from camp to the summit, 1j mile, at 428 feet per mile; and from
the summit to the base of the mountains, 81 miles, at 265 feet per mile.

These steep grades, for so long a distance, would at once render this pass out of the question,
even admitting them to be practicable, unless it can be shown that there is no better one, or
that it has a pre-eminently favorable position.

That there are passes with better grades, will appear in t^e sequel. As to its position, I
consider it one of the worst of all the known passes in the Sierra Nevada. As far as we know
the country, (and its general features are well known,) the whole portion east of Walker's
Pass, for two or three degrees of longitude, is a mountainous desert, almost destitute of wood,
water, and grass. It is universally conceded that any road reaching this pass must have come
either from the Vegas de Santa Clara, the Mohave river, or from the south. If coming from
the Vegas, in anything like a direct course, the position of the pass would be preferable to one
farther south ; but this desert would have to be crossed, and the practicability of such a route
is still a problem. For any road coming from the Mohave, or from the south, a pass farther
south would possess a preferable position.

But suppose a road arrives at Walker's Pass, and, surmounting the obstacles of steep grades,
enters the valley of the Chay-o-poo-ya-päh, and follows it down to Kern river ; there is, then,
no other course of proceeding open but to follow down this river, for the high mountains on
each side afford no chance of a passage. The cañon before mentioned is said to be five miles
long, and, according to information obtained from the Indians, the precipitous rocks, jutting
into the stream first from one bank then from the other, preclude the possibility of even a foot-
trail through it. 1t is probable, also, that here the river is very rapid. "The point where we
struck the river, near the mouth of Chay-o-poo-ya-püh, according to the barometer, is 2,600
feet above the level of the sea, and Kern lake, at tlıe head of the Tulare valley, is but 400 feet.
The distance, as taken from the map, is forty miles. Adding one-fourth for sinuosities, and we
have an average grade of forty-four feet to the mile. The course of the stream is southwest, at
right angles to the proper direction of a road that is to traverse the Tulare and San J oaquin
valleys.

After due consideration of the foregoing facts, I think I am justified in saying that Walker's
‘Pass is badly situated, and impracticable.

But many persons may naturally ask, Is this pass, here described, Walker's Pass? is this
the pass which every one, two years ago, admitted to be an excellent one? It is due to me that
this question s. ould be answered.

Mr. Joseph Walker, from whom Walker's Pass takes its name, is an old mountaineer, and

COL. FREMONT’S KNOWLEDGE OF WALKER’s PASS. 17

was, I believe, a trapper in California long before the first exploring parties were sent there.
Of the minutis of his early history I know but little, but it is not relevant to the subject. He,
however, in one of his numerous expeditions, found a very good pass in the Sierra Nevada,
which he thought would answer admirably for a wagon-road. This he reported when he was
in Missouri, or some one of the (now so-called) Eastern States. In August, 1845, Colonel
Frémont started on an expedition to the Pacific, by the way of the headwaters of the Arkansas,
White river, Great Salt lake, and Mary's or Humboldt river, and he engaged the services of
Walker as guide. Mr. R. Kern, whose lamentable death with Captain Gunnison and party is
known to all, was topographer or draughtsman to the expedition, as also was Mr. Charles
Preuss. Mr. Alexander Godey, of whom Colonel Frémont speaks in the highest terms, was
also of the party. "When Colonel Frémont reached the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada,
which he did in the vi: nity of Walker's lake—say latitude 38° 30’ north—he found that his
party would soon be out of provisions. He therefore separated from the main party, and
proceeded as rapidly as possible to Sutter's Fort to obtain a supply of live stock, flour, &c.,
with the understanding that the main party, under Walker and Kern, were to follow south-
wardly the eastern base of the Sierra till they came to the pass Walker had discovered ; and
here, in the mountains, on a stream flowing west from the pass, they were to remain in camp
till relieved by Colonel Frémont. At this time very little was known of this part of the
country. Walker drew a rough sketch of the route to be pursued by Colonel Frémont in order
to find his camp. The main point in his instructions was, that he should pass the San Joaquin
river and continue on southeasterly till he came to a large stream. This he was to ascend till
he found a branch coming in from the east, and in the valley of this branch he would find the
camp.

Colonel Frémont succeeded in obtaining the sicca he required, and started in search of
Kern and Walker. Following Walker's directions, he crossed the San Joaquin, and farther
on came to a large stream answering in every respect the description. It is the one now known
as King's river, and called on some of the maps Lake Fork, and is a hundred miles north of
the place where Walker was encamped. This stream he ascended, and searched for a long
time in a very rugged country, in many places covered with snow, but could find no trace of
the party; and, thinking they had gone in to the settlement, he gave up the search and went
to Monterey. It is possible (indeed almost certain) that Walker did not know of the existence
of King's river when he was directing Colonel Frémont where to find him, for, when he arrived
there on his way to Monterey, he mistook it for the San Joaquin.

Walker reached the pass late in December, and, passing the divide, made his camp in the
valley of the stream flowing from it. Here he waited till the 18th of January, 1846, when he
gave up all hope of seeing Colonel Frémont, and, his provisions being nearly exhausted, he
Started for the settlement, and subsequently rejoined the Colonel at Monterey.

From these circumstances the pass in which Walker and Kern were encamped was called
Walker's Pass; and, as no name was known to Colonel Frémont for the stream which flowed
from it, he named it Kern river. This stream was, and is now, known to the native Califor-
nians as the Po-sun-co-la, a name doubtless derived from the Indians. When I was at the
ordinary crossing-place of the river, and preparing a small raft to cross, three Californians rode
up to the opposite bank, and asked, in Spanish, if this was the Po-sun-co-la.

This pass, in which Walker made his camp, is undoubtedly Walker's Pass.

Colonel Frémont, in April of the preceding year, (1844,) had erossed the Sierra about half. a

18 HUM-PAH-YA-MUP AND TAH-EE-CHAY-PAH PASSES,

degree south of this pass, and he may subsequently have concluded that the place he crossed
was Walker's Pass, though I am not aware that he even so asserted.

In the year 1848 the notes of Colonel Fr&mont were compiled by order of the Senate. The
work was done by Charles Preuss, and Kern's notes of this expedition were used in plotting
Walker's Pass on his route of 1845, while Colonel Frémont's notes were used in plotting the
pass on his route of 1844. Both trails are marked on the map, and make the matter perfectly
clear. The most of these details were obtained from Godey and Preuss, and show conclusively
that Colonel Frémont, up to this year, never was at Walker's Pass.

In the spring of this year (1854) he arrived at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, probably
north of the 37th parallel. Finding it difficult to cross there, he was obliged to skirt along
the mountains south wardly, till he came to a fine open pass, of the existence of which he was
not previously aware, as the California papers announced it as an important discovery. I have
conclusive evidence to show that this was Walker's Pass—the one just described—and of which
Colonel Frémont could have known nothing definitely, as he had never been there before.

When it is asserted that Walker’s Pass is an excellent one, and the person making the asser-
lion refers to an entirely different place, the unintentional inaccuracy of the statement is due
entirely to an ignorance of localities, and such ignorance is excusable when the localities are in
a country so little known.

HUM-PAH-YA-MUP PASS.

"Having completed the examination of Walker's Pass, in order to follow my original intention
of tracing the water-shed of the mountains as near as possible, I found it necessary to retrace
our steps down the Chay-o-poo-ya-püh for thirteen miles, till we came to the collateral valley
before mentioned; for the mountains to the south of the pass were so high and rugged, that
the only way to pass them was to turn them. We ascended this valley, which was about two
miles wide. At first it was a broad bed of sand, which gradually contracted, and five miles up
we found running water. There was an abundance of the bulrush growing here, and a large
number of Indians, probably fifty or sixty, engaged in gathering it. "They had evidently heard
of us from their neighbors, and did not show the least sign of fear; but men, women, and
children came flocking around us, evincing much curiosity. We camped among them, and the
next morning Godey and myself started to examine the next depression in the mountains south
of Walker's Pass. This we found to be about the same altitude as that pass, viz: about 5,300
feet, and the ascent a little steeper. It is not as open as the other, and hence is not as good a
natural wagon-road. The average ascent for several miles is 288 feet to the mile. Like
Walker's Pass, were the divide once passed, the further difficulty presented in the descent of
Kern river is still to be encountered. It is about six miles in rectilinear distance from that
pass.

TAH-EE-CHAY-PAH PASS.

Breaking up our camp on Hum-pa-ya-mup creek, we ascended this stream and crossed the
divide, when we came upon the waters of a little stream flowing towards the basin. These
small streams all have running water near their sources, but invariably become dry after running
a few miles. The mountains here are thickly covered with brush; so thick, that, after an
ineffectual attempt to proceed, we were obliged to return to the water and make camp; while
Godey spent the afternoon in searching for Indian trails. He succeeded in finding one leading

APPROACHES FROM THE GREAT BASIN. 19

in the direction we wished to go, and the next morning we proceeded onward without difficulty.
Our trail led over a series of spurs from the main mountain ridge, which we crossed twice during
the day. Our altitude on one of these ridges was 5,500, feet and on our left was a high peak,
towering above us from two to three thousand feet more. From this ridge was a steep and
continuous descent for eight or nine miles, when we found ourselves in a beautiful prairie, appa-
rently completely surrounded by high mountains, and, as far as the eye could tell, it was a
horizontal plain. It was ten miles long, and from three to four broad. We came to an Indian
rancheria, where we learned that there was a stream of water and good grass two or three miles
further on. We proceeded to the place, and here found an excellent camping ground. This
afternoon (August 17) we had a heavy thunder-shower, whieh lasted between two and three
hours, and we all came into camp as wet as if we had heen in a river. I could see no appreciable
effect from it on the barometer. This is the only shower we had from the time of starting till
late in November. "There was another rancheria close to the place selected for our camp, and
from the Indians we learned that their name for the creek was Tah-ee-chay-pah. It is the one
called Pass creek by Colonel Frémont, and is the same one he ascended when he crossed the
mountains in 1844. This camp was not removed for three days, the time being occupied in
making examinations in the vicinity. We knew that the creek (upon whose headwaters we
were encamped) flowed towards the Tulare valley, but we did not know at what point it entered
it. We first went down the creek with the barometer, and found it emerged from the mountains
about midway between Kern river and the Tejon. We descended the stream for 153 miles, and
found the average descent to be 157 feet. The creek was narrow, and, in many places, the
mountains closed in, forming precipitous banks, while in others there was a vulley half a mile
wide. The hills, in many places, afford side-slopes favorable for making detours to gain distance
and decrease the grade. The steepest grade found in any part was for a distance of 14 miie,
where it was at the rate of 192 feet to the mile. "Timber was abundant.

From our camp, looking to the east and southeast, the hills (which we took to be the main
ridge of the Sierra Nevada) looked quite low, and there seemed to be several depressions, which
led us to hope we should find one, at least, favorable for railroad purposes. Being satisfied with
regard to the creek flowing westward, we commenced an examination of the approaches from
the Great Dasin. We went first to a gap in the hills nearly east of our camp, and found it to
present steep slopes on both sides; but pursuing our examination further, we were agreeably
surprised to find that only a mile north of this gap was a break through the hills, through which
the waters, collected in the eastern end of the prairie, discharge themselves into the basin; so
that, in fact, the water-shed or divide of the Sierra was actually in the prairie itself, and the
range of hills, mistaken for the main ridge, was, in fact, only a spur. A small lake-bed covered
with an incrustation of salt is immediately at the entrance of this creek, and two miles further
down we found springs of fresh water. There was a continuous bed of a stream, now dry,
continuing into the basin, and the bases of the hills, on either side, were a quarter of a mile
apart. The descent, for the first six miles, from the prairie, was at the rate of less than 80 feet
to the mile, and further down it was more gradual. The height of the summit was 4,020 feet,
and was the lowest point of the Sierra that I found. Altogether, the position and grades of
this pass are more favorable than those of Walker's, and eventually proved to be more favorable
than those of any other in the Sierra.

We next proceeded to examine the place where Colonel Frémont passed, and which was pointed
out to me by Mr. Preuss, who was with him at the time, and subsequently plotted his notes.

20 TEJON VALLEY.

This point was in a southeasterly direction from camp, and wasin a much more direct line to the
Mohave river than the outlet of the prairie we discovered. In crossing the spur, however, we had
to ascend about 600 feet in less than two miles. "This point would be far preferable for a wagon
road, being much more direct, and the ground, in wet weather, more solid than in the outlet.
We ascended a high peak south of this point, and I gained a much better idea of the topography
of the country than I had before.

It may be a question whether it would not be expedient to make a tunnel at this point, if a
road is to come from the southeast, rather than follow the more circuitous course on a gentle
grade. The distance saved would be from 12 to 14 miles. Iam inclined to think that both time
and expense would be saved by taking the longer route.

THE TEJON.

On the 21st of August we broke up our camp on Tah ee-chay-pah creek, and marched to the
Tejon, which is the name given to the extreme southern portion of the Tulare valley lying
immediately at the base of the mountains. The word is pronounced as if spelled Tay-hone,
the accent being strong on the last syllable. The derivation of the word is uncertain. Whether
it is taken from the Spanish word tejon, meaning a badger, or whether it is an Indian word, I
am unable to say. The trail which we followed led us for ten miles through a series of prairies

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similar to, but smaller than the one we had left. We at first ascended slightly, till we came to
a marshy place, from which flowed two little streams, the one to the north into Tah-ee-chay-pah

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TEJON PASS AND CANADA DE LAS UVAS. 21

ereek, the other westwardly towards the Tejon. The western extremity of the last of these
prairies was only 240 feet lower than the water-shed in the Tah-ee-chay-pah prairie, and the
descent to the Tejon was made in less than five miles. The prairie abounded in springs, and
the water, co ecting at its western extremity, flowed through a precipitous ravine to the prairie.
This ravine | examined with care, and subsequently went through it with the level; for I
thought, if the calculations of the observations taken on Tah-ee-chay-pah creek should prove
the grade down that creek to be too steep for a railroad, and it became necessary to resort to
inclined planes with stationary engines, that this would be an excellent location for such
constructions. I found the descent very steep, in some places over a thousand feet to the mile,
and the average for a mile and a quarter was over 900 feet.

The Tejon is really a beautiful place. It receives severa! small streams, all of which sink
shortly after leaving the mountains; but the ground being moist, produces fine groves of oak,
and abundance of grass, and the green and fresh appearance of the spot presents a striking
contrast to the parched and barren plain north of it.

Plate VI represents a part of the Tejon, with its timber, in which our camp was made. The
gap in the mountains in the background is the entrance to the pass. The Indians here are
semi-civilized ; many of them speak Spanish; and they cultivate melons, pumpkins, and a
little corn.

Three white men had also squatted here. They had made no improvement, however, but
were waiting till they could perfect a title to the land. Northwest of the Tejon are two small
lakes, known as Kern and Buena Vista lakes. The former receives the waters of Kern river,
and discharges itself into the latter. These lakes are doubtless connected with the larger
Tulare lakes. In fact, the middle of the valley from these lakes northward, to within 10 miles
of the San Joaquin river, is, where it is not covered with water, a marsh, and is only passable
during the dry season. Kern lake may properly be considered the head of the Tulare valley,
and from it the ground slopes rapidly to the base of the mountains, where it has an altitud » of
from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above tide. I sent a barometer to the lake, and ascertained its altitude
to be 398 feet.

Near the eastern extremity of the Tejon is a break in the mountains, known as tbe Tejon
Pass. "Through this break a wagon-road has been made leading to Los Angeles, and it is one
of the worst roads I ever saw. This pass had been much and favorably spoken of as a railroad
pass. About 15 miles to the westward is another pass, known as the Cañada de las Uvas, `
through which is a pack-trail, also leading to Los Angeles. We were assured by all, that
between the two the mountains were much higher than at either of them. I therefore deter-
mined to go through the Cañada, and afterwards skirting the southeastern base of the Sierra,
enter the Tejon Pass, and, following the wagon-road through it, return to the Tejon. :

The Cañada de las Uvas appeared to the eye to be an excellent pass, and the barometer
indicated its altitude to be much less than most of those previously examined. The Tejon Pass
is a peculiar one. The altitude is quite great; but the ascent and descent appeared to be
gentle, except very near the summit. It was hence supposed that, by means of a tunnel, the
pass might be found to be a good one. From these considerations, and from the fact that the
Tejon was confidently asserted to be an excellent railroad pass, I selected these two points for
my deste es with the spirit-level, to get accurate profiles, and test the value of those from

h the barometer

The Cañada میت ی‎ to be the last pass in the Sierra, as at or near this point it united

23 TEJON PASS.

with the Coast range. Still some vague Indian reports led me to suppose there might be one
further west; and to be perfectly sure of having examined all that existed, I procured an Indian
guide, and, leaving the Tejon, followed the base of the mountains westward for about 10 miles,
when we came to a small stream. This the Indian assured us was the place, and we accord-
ingly ascended it. We found the road very rocky, the ascent steep, and the altitude of the
summit high. Upon descending from the summit six miles, we found ourselves near the
summit of the Cañada de las Uvas. This at once proved the latter pass far superior.

Having thus most happily concluded the reconnaissance, during which data for the construc-
tion of six barometric profiles had been obtained, and the almost positive assurance that there
existed no pass in the Sierra, south of Walker's, but those I had examined, I returned to the
Depot camp on O-co-ya or Pose creek, where I arrived on the 29th of August, having been
absent just twenty days—the exact time named at my departure. By a rather singular coinci-
dence, the wagons arrived from Fort Miller on the same day, filled with the stores we required
for future operations. Everybody was well in camp, suffering only from a desire for a more
active life.

On the 1st of September we broke up camp, and marched to Kern river, where the rest of the
day was employed in crossing the stores on a raft. Leaving this river for the Tejon, we went,
in as direct a line as possible, across the open plain, our train of ten heavy wagons breaking
down the bushes, and making a well-marked trail, six or eight miles shorter than the old trail,
which followed the foot of the hills, and which has since been abandoned by the emigrants,
they giving the preference to the one we made. Arriving at the Tejon, we selected a place for
a depot camp, in a beautiful grove of oaks, surrounded by abundant grass, and near to the
Tejon creek, and commenced our operations for surveying with the spirit-level. I detached
Lieutenant Parke with instructions to make a hasty reconnaissance of the country in the
direction of Los Angeles and its vicinity, hoping the information he would gain would be very
valuable in deciding upon the most desirable course to be pursued in prosecution of the survey;
as ultimately proved to be the case. We found Mr. Ed. Beale, superintendent of Indian affairs,
at the Tejon, he having just arrived, after a long and arduous journey across the plains. A
few days afterwards he selected this point for an Indian reservation.

TEJON PASS.

The surveying party, composed of Mr. Smith, Mr. Preuss, and myself, with the necessary
rod-men, chain-men, &c., commenced, September 5, the survey of the Tejon Pass, the starting-
point being the stationary barometer in camp, which had been placed in a brush-house open at
tho sides to admit freely the air, and was to be observed every three hours during theday. Mr.
Smith took charge of the levelling party, while I, with Mr. Preuss, were working with chain,
compass, and the barometer. Mr. Preuss made sketches of the hills and ravines on either side;
so that his notes, in connexion with my compass bearings, would afford the means of making
an accurate topographical map of the pass. The barometer was read, as à general rule, every
quarter of a mile; but where any decided change in the uniformity of the inclination was per-
ceived, that place was always made a barometric station. Mr. Blake made geological exami-
nations, and connected them with the stations of the survey.

On the 18th September we returned to Depot camp, having completed the survey of the
pass, and also of the ravine before mentioned, leading from the mountain prairie into the

TEJON PASS—GRADES, ETC. 23

I will now give the results of the survey, merely mentioning here that the profile, as deter-
mined by the spirit-level and by the barometer, agreed remarkably well, seldom differing fifty
feet, even with the ordinary mode of calculation, which is much less refined than if the minute
corrections had been applied. This subject will be elaborately discussed in another place, and
hence it is thought sufficient to mention here the simple fact, without further remark.

From the Depot camp to the point where the Tejon creek debouched from the mountains was
a distance of two and eight-tenths miles, over unbroken ground. To the eye this appeared
very slightly deviating from horizontality. The level showed a difference of altitude of 483 feet,
giving a grade of 173 feet to the mile. The barometer made the difference of level 15 feet
greater. I was surprised at this result, which taught that very erroneous impressions must
generally be conceived with regard to differences of level if the eye alone is trusted to.

From the entrance of the pass to the point where the precipitous ascent before mentioned
commences, and where a tunnel must commence, is a distance of eleven and four-tenths miles,
and the difference of altitude was found to be 2,665 feet, giving an average grade of 234 feet to
the mile, the minimum grade between any two stations being 150 feet per mile for half a mile,
and the maximum being 383 feet per mile for nine-tenths of a mile. The barometer made the
total difference of level 44 feet less.

The annexed sketch was taken from the crest, and the observer is supposed to be looking
westward, through the valley of the pass, to the plains of the Tulare valley. .

Sn = +
TULARE VALLEY, FROM THE SUMMIT OF TEJON PASS.
From this point, going eastward, we have an ascending grade of 2,207 feet to the mile, to the
crest; then a descending grade of 728 feet, to a point on the eastern slope where the descent
4€

*

24 TEJON PASS—GRADFS, ETC.

becomes less and more uniform, and which corresponds with the point above described, at the
western base of this wedge-like summit. The horizontal distance between these two points is
about 1.15 mile, which is the distance it would be necessary to tunnel.

From here to the point in the Great Basin where we left off levelling, the distance was 6.4
miles, at an average grade of 205 feet to the mile, the difference of level being 1,308 feet. The
maximum grade between any two stations was 267 feet per mile for about half a mile, and the
minimum 138 feet for nearly the same distance. The barometer made the difference of level
between the two points 28 feet less.

SIDE RAVINE IN THE TEJON PASS.

The eastern terminus of the line was 3,388 feet above the sea, and was on the edge of the
Great Basin. From here the ground assumes an unbroken appearance in the direction of a
large dry lake-bed, about 25 miles distant and 1,000 feet lower. . As this lake has. probably no
discharge, and is fed only by the drainage of the surrounding mountains after heavy rains, its
altitude, 2,388 feet, may be considered that of the lowest part of this, one of those many subor-

i
|
۱

CANADA DE LAS UVAS, 25

dinate basins which collectively compose that vast tract of country which has been named the
Great Basin. As Kern lake is 398 feet above the sea, it appears that in this part of the range
the descent from the summit of the Sierra to the head of the Tulare valley is nearly 3,000 feet
more than the descent from the same point to the rim of the Basin.

The crest of the Tejon Pass is 5,285 feet above the level of the sea.

The grades in the Tejon Pass were much greater than I had anticipated, and, owing to the
nature of the ridges, it is not possible to reduce them by side-cuttings. These difficulties consist
in steep and rugged ravines, which furrow the mountains on each side and descend to the
valley of the pass.

A view of one of these side-ravines from the trail is given in wood-cut on page 34.

I think the difficulties presented by the grades, taken in connexion with the tunnel that
would be required, render this pass unfit for railroad purposes.

CANADA DE LAS UVAS.

Before commencing the survey of this pass, a line nearly straight was run across the Tejon to
its entrance, to ascertain the absolute height above the sea of that point, assuming that the
altitude of the Depot camp had been correctly ascertained. We found its altitude to be 193
feet above camp, or 1,640 feet above the sea.

TULARE iacu. AND ENTRANCE OF THE RE DE LAS UVAS.
This pass possesses some peculiarities worthy of note, for the line of survey may be said to
go around the end of the Sierra Nevada, the pass being at the junction of the Sierra Nevada

26 COMPARISON OF PASSES.

with the Coast range. The ridges of the latter curve around the southern end of the Tulare
valley and form its boundary. At the foot of these ridges, and on the south side of the
entrance to the pass, there are low rounded hills, much cut up by ravines, and often present-
ing precipitous banks, apparently of clay. (See Plate VII.) Mr. Blake describes these hills as
of sedimentary origin, and of the age of the Tertiary. After entering the pass, we ascend a
stream flowing from it into the Tejon, fed by springs situated about half way to the summit.

In the ravine of this brook the bases of the mountains approach closely, forming but a narrow
valley ; but still ascending beyond the springs, the valley opens out to a plain from one-half to
three-quarters of a mile in width, and the ascent is less steep. When quite near the summit,
the ascent becomes more abrupt for a short distance. Descending from this divide, we come
upon waters flowing into the Santa Clara river, and thence into the Pacific. Some distance
beyond we come to another small divide, ی‎ HE from the summit of which we are upon the
waters flowing into the Basin.

From a short distance beyond the summit to the Great Basin, the valley of the pass is wide
and bounded by low hills. Near our last camp in the pass the broad expanse of the Basin was
visible, broken here and there by isolated ridges of barren rocks.

From the western entrance of the pass to the springs at the source of the brook, a distance of
five and a quarter miles, the grades are quite steep, averaging 302 feet to the mile, the maxi-
mum being 348 feet, and the minimum 229 feet. From the springs to near the summit, the
average grades are 121 feet to the mile, while at the summit itself there is for half a mile an
ascent of 339 feet per mile, and for three-quarters of a mile a descent at the rate of 441 feet per
mile. No difficulty is then experienced till we arrive at the second divide, which separates the
waters flowing towards the Pacific from those flowing towards the Basin. Here we had a
descent for half a mile at the rate of 357 feet per mile, after which the descent is gradual to the
Basin.

The main difficulty in this pass is the very steep grade in the bed of the brook. The hills on
either side are cut up by deep ravines—so much so as to prevent recourse to side-cuttings. The
two divides are easily passed by tunnels from a halt' to one and a quarter mile in length.

There is a good wagon-road through this pass; and I learn that, since our survey a military
post has been established at or near the springs.

GENERAL REMARKS ON THE PASSES OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.

In the foregoing general description of the most important of the passes examined in the
‘Sierra, I have spoken of only the most important features of each pass, giving their grades,
and endeavoring to explain the position and peculiarities of each, so that a general comparison
may be made. This was all that was necessary, as the accompanying tables give in a concise
form full and minute information, as also the data from which this information was obtained ;
and these tables, in connexion with the maps and profiles and the sketches, form a complete
description of the passes. I think the facts which have been brought forward warrant the
following conclusion :

Of the five principal passes described, there are two which are pre-eminently superior to the
others, viz: the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass and the Cañada de las Uvas. As far as the situation of
these passes is concerned, neither has the advantage if the road comes from the Mohave or the
mouth of the Gila; for, taking a point on the map near which such a road must pass, and

Vide Report upon the Geology of the Expedition.

U. S.P. R. R. EXP. & SURVEYS, CAL.

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GREAT BASIN—MOHAVE RIVER. 27

measuring from this point the sinuous course through each pass to the probable crossing of
Kern river, it is found that the two routes are almost exactly the same in length. Water is
equally abundant in each, but timber abounds most in Tah-ee-chay-pah. But the main point
of comparison is the grades. In Tah-ee-chay-pah we have 157 feet to the mile for fifteen miles;
in the Cañada we have 302 feet for five miles and two tunnels. I imagine, from the little
statistical information that I have been able to obtain, that this last grade, though perhaps not
positively impracticable for locomotion, would present such serious difficulties that the Tah-ee-
chay-pah Pass would be considered by railroad engineers as decidedly the preferable.

THE GREAT BASIN.

On the 5th of October, the survey of the Canada being completed, we returned to Depot
camp. Lieutenanı Parke had re.urned some days previously, and had assisted me in the field-
work in the Cañada. His hasty reconnaissance proved very useful, having gained a general
idea of the country; and also, from information gained in Los Angeles, he had visited a
pass in the Coast range east of that pueblo, situated between the two high mountains of San
Bernardino and San Gorgonio, which presented a very favorable appearance. This pass was
little known, and had never been considered in connexion with a railroad.

Having concluded the survey of the passes in the Sierra Nevada, my instructions were to
ascertain the most direct practicable railroad route to the mouth of the Gila. The direction of
the mouth of the Gila from these passes is southeast, and the intermediate country had been
ode as a desert. Rumors of parties having attempted to cross it and never having been
)mmon, but no one could be found who professed to have any personal knowl-
knew, however, that the direct route between the two points must cross the
ant, in a direct line, about one and a half degree.

ed - y wem to examine this district, and also to examine the passes in the Coast
range. To accomplish both objects, I determined to go out into the Basin, till I arrived mid-
way between the Sierra and the Mohave, and then, returning, strike over to the mountains.

After arriving. on the Mohave I could from there come towaids the Sierra, and connect with my
former line, This plan being adopted, Lieutenant Stoneman, with the escort and wagon-train,
left the Tejon, and passing through the Cañada de las Uvas, (where we had made a wagon-
road,) followed. the base of the Coast range, and camped near the pass of San Francisquito.

Parke, with a small party, was sent to the northward in the Sierra, to obtain infor-- 0
mation required lio complete the eoe map of the passes, and Mr. Blake and myself started -
to make an examination ofthe Basin. From the summit of the Sierra, in the Tejon Pass, we

nded view, which gave a good idea of the formation of the country towards the
“E the mts of the — range dedi d isa a belt of موس‎ an,

Having gone rough the Teen Pass, we took our course for the nearest of the lost hills,
distant from the base of the Sierra about ten miles. Here we were rather surprised to find
several springs of fresh water. These springs formed little streams, running from ten to fifty
yards, and then disappearing in the dry soil. Continuing onward in nearly an easterly direc-

28 SAN FRANCISQUITO PASS.

tion for .about ten miles, skirting the base of a chain of lost hills, which were about 600 feet
high, we came to another spring, and a few miles beyond we found a third. We ascended
several of the hills to get views of the surrounding country; and finally, after having gone about
thirty miles east of the base of the Sierra Nevada, we turned back and rejoined Lieutenant
Stoneman in camp:

Subsequently, I came westward from the Mohave river to near the place where we turned ۱
back, and found the country presented the same characters, except that no more water was dis- :
covered. Independent of the lost hills, the country is a system of inclined plains or slopes ; and 3
although there is no serious topographical impediment to the construction of a railroad through |
it, the grades would often approach 100 feet to the mile. There is no timber, the surface being |

` generally bare, or covered with sage bushes, grease-wood, yucca trees, dc. Mr. Blake con-
à fidently expresses the opinion that water can be obtained by boring. _

SAN FRANCISQUITO PASS. I

Lieutenant Stoneman’s camp was near the entrance to the San Francisquito Pass, a pass
through which the wagon-road from the Tejon descends from the summit of the Coast range to
the Santa Clara valley. He had found no difficulty in conducting the wagon-train through the
Cañada de las Uvas, and along the base of the mountains to camp, finding plenty of grass and

EE

LAKE ELIZABETH, SAN FRANCISQUITO PASS.

water at short intervals. I made a survey of the San Francisquito Pass with odom
barometer, and found it very difficult for railroad purposes, there being à grade of 457 feet for

۱
eter and
a mile, and over 330 for two miles. The wagon-road passes along and in the bed of a mountain

Tu

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TRADE

TR An

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3

DISCOVERY OF THE NEW PASS. 29

stream, in many places passing through rocky cations, where expensive side-cuttings would be
necessary. For these reasons I considered this pass as of no importance.

The approach to this pass from the Great Basin, by the wagon-road, is over an outlying ridge,
which extends parallel with the main divide, and thus forms a long narrow valley. This valley
is occupied by a chain of small lakes, which are bordered by a luxuriant growth of grass.

NEW PASS.

Returning to camp with the intention of advancing to the Mohave river, I was induced by
Lieutenant Stoneman's report to ascend a high mountain near camp, from which a fine view of
the Santa Clara valley could be obtained ; and for this purpose the camp remained in the same
place another day. The mountain is the one named on the map Stoneman's mountain, and we
found it by aneroid measurement to be 6,000 feet high. From this great elevation we had a
very extended view. Ina westerly direction we saw the valley of the Santa Clara spread at our
feet, the many low hills of that valley giving it almost the appearance of a plain? On the
north of the valley was the Coast range; on the south a branch range from the latter known
as the Susannah range; while in the valley between, a branch of the Santa Clara was traced,
winding its course towards the sea. On the northwest was the Sierra, and on the northeast
the Great Basin. Many bearings were taken which afterwards proved useful in plotting the
general map.

ENTRANCE OF NEW PASS.

-[t was proposed to descend the mountain on the side opposite to that we ascended, and. to
return to camp by going around its southern base. This plan was adopted, and by doing this

30 EXPLORATION OF THE MOHAVE RIVER.

we reached, in an open spot, the branch of the river. Following this branch to its source, we
were quite surprised to find the depression in the mountains here very low, and the pass, thus
found, to be ópen, and apparently of quite gentle and gradual acclivity. As the existence of
this pass was supposed previously to be unknown, I named it New Pass; and though not sur-
veyed till some time subsequent, I will now describe it.

From an accessible point in the Great Basin, nearly eight miles from the divide, the survey
commenced, and followed the course of a long open valley leading to the crest. This valley is
represented in the annexed wood-cut; the crest or divide is not, however, visible, being between
the ridges at the extreme right of the picture.

From the point in the Basin at which the survey commenced until we arrived within a mile
and a third of the crest, the grades were below 50 feet. Here we found half a mile at 218
feet, and four-fifths of a mile at 240 feet per mile. "These grades can easily be reduced by either
excavation or winding to gain distance. Commencing the descent we have 77 feet for 1,5; mile,
on an almost perfect inclined plane; 32 miles at 105 feet; and all the rest of the descent far below
80 feet per mile—the greatest being 78 feet for 13 mile. I may safely say that the descent in
this pass can be made without having it at any point a grade as great as a hundred feet. The
survey was made with odometer and barometer, and there was no obstruction for the wagon,
except for a short distance, occasioned by trees. "This pass leads into the Santa Clara valley,
near where the wagon-road through the San Francisquito Pass enters it, from which point there
is no obstruetion to the ocean. I believe this was the first time a wagon had ever been taken
through this pass.

Returning from Stoneman's mountain, we continued our route with the train for the Mohave.
We were obliged to skirt the base of the mountains to find grass and water, neither being
known to exist in the Basin. We fouud several springs, but finally, after a long march,
camped on a bold stream which was a river in the foot-hills, but sank immediately upon reaching
the Basin. It is marked on Preuss’ map from the surveys of Colonel Frémont; but as we
knew no name for it, we called it Johnson's river, after the soldier who found it for us.

The next day our march was very slow and fatiguing to the animals, as the country was filled
with yucca trees and bushes, and no road had been broken. Fortunately, about dark we came
to a small stream, where our thirsty mules obtained water. Had it not been for this, I think
many would have givenout. We stopped here a few hours to allow them to rest and eat a little
barley that we had saved, and also to get supper for ourselves. Then travelling all night, we
reached the Mohave the next afternoon. It was a great relief to all when we struck the “old
Spanish trail," for then, the road having been broken, we had no more bushes to contend with.
We made a depot camp where that trail strikes the river, October 19, 1853.

So far we had succeeded in progressing towards the mouth of the Gila, but we were br no
means sanguine of future success. The country we had passed over from the passes in the
Sierra, though very trying to us, presented no impediment to the construction of a railroad,
water being obtained by digging, and the total right-line distance about 150 miles. But there
were unknown mountains to be examined and crossed before we would be at our destination.

MOHAVE RIVER.

The three days subsequent to our arrival on the Mohave were spent in examining the country
in different directions, so as to form a proper plan for our future movements. Every peak in the
vieinity which seemed likely to afford an extended view was ascended, and the conclusion was

EXPLORATION OF MOHAVE TO SODA LAKE, 31

arrived at, that from this point there was no chance of proceeding to the southeast, and that
we must, to attain our object, follow the river till an available point to leave it in the desired
direction should be found. I detailed Lieutenant Parke to ascend the river, to endeavor to find
a practicable pass at the source of one of its branches, while I should descend it for a similar
purpose; and, as the services of Mr. Smith, on this survey, could be dispensed with, he was
given a party, with the spring-wagon, to make a survey of the New Pass, examine the country
lying between it and the Cajon Pass, and after a survey of this latter to return to camp. It
was estimated that Lieutenant Parke and myself would be absent ten days, while Mr. Smith
would require a few days longer to accomplish his surveys. Lieutenant Stoneman, with the
escort, was to remain in camp.

I started with a very small party, on the 23d, down the river. At Depot camp it was a
broad, shallow stream, abundantly wooded, and its bottom confined by terraces on either bank,
from one to three miles apart. The water, however, soon sank in the sandy bed, reappearing
generally at a point of rocks, or a contraction of the stream. The timber followed the direction
of the water, and generally disappeared with it.

After descending about twenty-four miles, I made one of my camps at a rocky point where
the water flowed freely, but only for a short distance. Here, the course of the river not being
discernible, I was in doubt whether to follow the wagon-road, which I had no reason to suppose
would leave water, or to go through an opening more to the south. There was but little choice
between the two, and finally I determined to take the road. After travelling ten or twelve
miles, I discovered that neither of the courses was the correct one, but that the river flowed
through a cañon in the intermediate hills. Returning, I made camp at a place on the river
conveniently situated, from which to make a reconnaissance of the southernmost opening.

As there was little chance of finding water after leaving the river, I took with me a pack-
mule, carrying two ten-gallon kegs of water, by which means I was able to go thirty or forty
miles and return. I started early, with two men, leaving the other two in camp, and proceeded

in the direction of a high peak in a ridge ahead, which ridge seemed to terminate the opening.

As we advanced, however, we found this to be a mere spur, extending into the opening, and not
closing it. About sunset, I fortunately found a little dry grass, and being at the foot of the
ridge, I made camp. As, by ascending the peak, I would be able to see a great distance in
every direction, whereas my provisions would not allow of following the opening, I resolved to
attempt its ascent, and, starting very early, succeeded in gaining its summit by daylight. Here
I had an extended view. There were ranges of hills and mountains on all sides, which seemed
to have no uniformity of direction. In a direction south, 25° east, the hills seemed to be more
distant and lower. They looked white, like sand-hills, and were about twenty miles off. I could
form a pretty good idea of this distance, as I could compare it with the distance from camp,
both places being visible from where I stood. The direction of these low hills is about the same
as that of the mouth of the Gila, which was distant 175 miles, and the nearest point of the
Colorado river 125 miles.

I arrived at noon where I had left the men, and, having given our animals the last of the
water, we turned our faces towards camp, where we arrived late at night.

About midway between the peak and camp was a singular isolated hill about 300 feet high.
It was composed of very black volcanic rock, and its form that of a very symmetrical truncated
cone, surrounded at its base by a circular horizontal bed of the same rock, the cone being in the
centre. This bed was between two and three miles in diameter, its edges well marked, and

5€

^P oai REN

32: RETURN OF MR. SMITH— REUNION OF PARTIES.

rising from two to six feet above the surrounding gravelly plain. I regretted very much that I
could not stop to examine and ascend it; but, as it was, I was fearful our mules would give out
before reaching camp. From its peculiarly symmetrical appearance, from the volcanic nature
of the rocks, and from its singularly isolated position, every one must be struck with its similarity
in appearance to a volcanic crater.

The next morning I moved up the river to a point I had selected, from which I intended to
go out into the Basin towards the Tejon, to connect with the partial line before described. The
only point in the Mohave bottom from which the Tejon mountains can be seen is about 25 miles
below Depot camp. This is due to the terraces and low hills on the river's bank. From here
I went to a low point of hills, about 10 miles towards the Tejon, and finding the nature of the
Basin to be of the same character as heretofore described, and being perfectly satisfied of its
practicability for a railroad route, I retraced my steps, and finally returned to Depot camp on
the 1st of November.

Lieutenant Parke returned from his examination up the river on the same day. He reported
that he explored the headwaters of the river, and found the mountains near its source to be
exceedingly high and rugged. The precipitous ravines and side-slopes were of such a nature
as to render travelling on muleback very difficult and often impossible. This reconnaissance
demonstrated the impracticability of crossing the mountains east of the Coast range, and near
the headwaters of the Mohave, and at the same time it furnished much useful topographical
information.

The result of these preliminary examinations seemed. to force the following conclusions, viz:
Ist. That it was positively impracticable to reach the mouth of the Gila by ascending the
Mohave, and crossing the mountains east of the Coast range. 2d. That for 60 miles at least
below the Depot camp there were ranges of hills and mountains south and southeast of the
river, which presented an impassable barrier to progress in a direct course towards that point.
The evident deduction was that a circuit must be made either to the west or to the east to turn
these mountains.

Under these circumstances it was determined to divide the party into two parts. Lieutenant
Purke, with the wagon train, was to cross the Coast range at the Cajon Pass, and recross it at
the Pass of San Gorgonio, thus turning the headwaters of the Mohave river and the high
mountain of San Bernardino, in which it has its source. Being thus once more east of the
Coast range, he was to follow along its eastern base till he came to Warner's Pass, where he
was to select a camp and commence the survey of that pass. In the meantime the second
party, with pack-mules only, would descend the Mohave river to its supposed junction with the
Colorado, and thence down that river to the mouth of the Gila. This latter party would be
accompanied by the whole of the escort, as we knew the Indians on the Colorado to be
numerous.

While waiting for the return of Mr. Smith and his party, preparations were being made to
follow out this plan, and numerous observations were taken to establish. astronomically the
position of this, one of our most important camps.

Mr. Smith returned on the 6th of November, after a successful expedition, the resulte of
which will be detailed hereafter. Early on the morning: of the 8th the wagon train started,
and shortly after the packs. were ready, and we were on the trail down the river. On the
evening of the 10th we made our camp at the lowest point I had reached on the river during
my preliminary examination. From here we followed the broad river-bed for 15 miles, having

—————H—M

A EEEE a

EXPLORATION OF LAKE BEDS NORTH OF MOHAVE. 33

clay bluffs on each side, when we entered the cafion, which is about seven miles long, and had
running water throughout its whole length. The bed of the stream in the caiion is from 100
to 150 feet in width. On either side the clay bluffs rise often over 100 feet. "They are vertical,
and, by the action of the water, the surface has in many places assumed the ferm of Gothie
pillars. The clay presents every variety of beautiful and delicate tints—purple, pink, blue,
yellow, &c. In the cañon we found cane growing, similar to that mentioned as found in
Walker's Pass, and large quantities of it had been cut by the Indians. We saw, however, no
fresh Indian signs. a à

Upon emerging from the cañon, we entered a sandy plain, and at once lost all signs of the
river-bed. After travelling 13 miles across this plain, we were fortunate enough to find a hole
containing water, and here we made our camp late at night. The water was barely sufficient
for our nearly exhausted animals, and a long time was occupied in giving them a scanty supply.
This plain had an abundant growth of mezquite trees. We afterwards found some uninhabited
Indian huts near here, and saw an abundance of old Indian tracks, but no Indians.

In the morning, upon taking a survey of our position, we found we were near the centre of
an irregularly shaped plain, surrounded by hills. To the southeast appeared an opening, and
here we concluded was the outlet through which the Mohave continued its course. We went
in this direction about thirteen miles, the first seven or eight of which were over low sand-hills ;
but afterwards we travelled in the dry bed of a wash, which we found we were ascending.
Being convinced that we had left the Mohave, and the men who had been sent in search of
water having been able to find none, we returned to our camp of the morning. This was
another very fatiguing day for the animals, and after reaching camp, there being so little water
in the hole, which filled very slowly, it took till 2 a. m. to water them. We observed to-day
that to the north of our camp was a large lake-bed, and here we inferred the waters of the
Mohave were collected. The question now was, whether this lake had an outlet, or whether it
was a basin, and the terminus of the Mohave. To ascertain this point, Lieutenant Stoneman
and myself started to examine the lake, which was about fifteen miles long, and covered with
an incrustation of salt, exceedingly bitter. We, however, returned to camp late, without any
positive result. Not being willing to move the command upon an uncertainty, I resolved to
devote one more day to examination. To the east of our camp was a high range of barren
mountains, its crest from fifteen to twenty miles distant. Lieutenant Stoneman and myself
ascended to the summit of one of the nearest peaks, from which we had an extended view. To
the eastward were to be seen nothing but mountains; we saw, however, that to the northward
of the salt lake, and not far distant from it, were several other lake-beds. Our view to the
southward was bounded by mountains.

The result of these examinations was, that if the Mohave flowed beyond the salt lake, it
could flow in no other than a northerly direction through these lake-beds, and the only thing
to be done was to proceed in this direction, though directly contrary to the one we wished to go.

We had found at the base of the hills, on the edge of the salt lake, several fine springs,
slightly brackish but not unpalatable. Around these was good grass. The camp was moved
here, and the animals were refreshed by once more having as much to eat as they wanted.

On the morning of November 16, at 5 o'clock, we started by fine moonlight and travelled to
the northern extremity of the salt lake, and thence on to the next one. We found the two con-
nected by a ditch, cut by water in the clay soil, and about twenty feet wide, with banks two
feet high. The two lakes were from three to four miles apart. The second one was six miles

34 PROOF OF SINKING OF MOHAVE RIVER—MR. SMITH'S REPORT.

long and three broad. The character of the second lake was entirely different from that of the
first. It was a dry, hard clay-bed, on which the shoes of the mules scarcely made an impres-
sion ; while the other was covered with salt. and in many places too soft to travel over. The
bases of the hills on the west, and the mountains on the east, were immediate on the lake
bank, and as we crossed it we could see there was no outlet in either of these directions; but to
the northward the hills were low, and we expected to find here a passage where water could
flow. On arriving at the north end of the lake, we tound a very low ridge, connecting the hills
on either side. We searched for a passage through this ridge, but could find none; but every-
where saw, in the gullies, that the water from rains flowed towards the lake. I hence con-
cluded that the true sink of the Mohave river was in the salt lake, and that the second lake was
formed principally from water flowing from the surrounding hills after heavy rains; but that
in time of very high water in the salt lake, its surplus flowed through the ditch before mentioned
into it.

We crossed this ridge, and at once descended into another valley some two hundred feet
lower than the bed of the lake. After travelling four or five miles, we came suddenly upon a
wagon-road. We knew it could be no other than the old Spanish trail, and this at once
afforded proof that the Mohave river of the maps is a fiction. It was universally supposed by
emigrants and others, that when the Spanish trail left the Mohave above the cañon, it never
was on it again. The valley in which we struck the trail extended to the northward twenty or
thirty miles, bounded on all sides by mountains.

We were now, according to our estimates, over 100 miles in a direct line from the Colorado,
with a mountainous country between, and neither wood, water, nor grass that we knew of. To
attempt to reach that river would have been madness. Our only alternative was to turn back.
We took the wagon-road, and at midnight reached Agua de Tomaso, having travelled fifty-five
miles without water.

Agua de Tomaso, (or, as I am told, more properly Agua de Tio Mes,) is simply a spring of
bitter water, which does not flow more than a hundred yards, and is quite different from what
maps generally represent it to be; for they often make it a stream 20 miles long. There was
not enough grass here to subsist our animals, and we were, therefore, obliged to push on early
in the morning to where the trail strikes the Mohave. From here we went by the usually
travelled roads through the settlements to join Lieutenant Parke, whom we found near
Warner's rancho, at Agua Caliente. We joined him on the 29th of November, and once more
all the party was together.

MR. SMITH'S SURVEY.

I have deferred until now a report of the results of the survey intrusted to Mr. Smith, because
- I did not wish to interrupt the detail of facts connected with the Mohave river.

Mr. Smith left Depot camp on the 21st of October, with the spring-wagon and a small survey-
ing party. Instead of following our circuitous trail, he attempted to go in a direct line to the
entrance of New Pass, but found the ground cut up by gullies, and the yucca trees and brush
very thick. He therefore regained the road, and, proceeding without further difficulty, arrived
at and went through the New Pass. A full description af this pass has already been given.

On the south of the Santa Clara valley is à spur of the Coast range, running obliquely
towards the sea, and known as the Susannah range. In order to pass from this valley to the
valley of Los Angeles,. this range must be crossed or turned. The latter course is easily
pursued, as the range degenerates into low hills as the sea is approached ; but this would greatly

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DESCRIPTION OF SAN FERNANDO AND CAJON PASSES, 35

lengthen the road. The wagon road of the San Francisquito Pass crosses this range at a pass
known as that of San Fernando, as it leads directly to the mission of that name. It was through
this pass that Mr. Smith went, and I will now describe it:

SAN FERNANDO PASS.

Two small streams, rising near the crest of the Susannah range, and one-quarter of a mile
apart, flow in opposite directions—the one north into the Santa Clara, the other south towards
the mission of San Fernando. Between the two is a sharp crest, where the inclination is over
1,000 feet to the mile. This is the nature of this pass, which is only 8 miles from base to base.
Leaving the Santa Clara, we ascend 22 miles, at the rate of 43 feet per mile; then 14 mile, at
260 feet per mile, which brings us to the base of the crest; having passed which by a tunnel,
we descend 41 miles, at 157 feet to the mile, to the southern foot of the pass. With a tunnel,
this is decidedly practicable. The only question is, as to the expediency of increasing the
length of the tunnel to reduce the grade of 260 feet. The Susannah range has been very little
explored, and it is not improbable that other passes in it may be found presenting much less
difficulties than this one. ۲

Once arrived at San Fernando, the country may be traversed in almost every direction
between that point, San Bernardino, and the coast.

About 21 miles southeast of San Fernando is the Pueblo de los Angeles, formerly the capital
of California, when under Mexican rule. This place is celebrated for its delightful climate and
fertile soil. Large quantities of grapes are exported to San Francisco, and considerable wine
was formerly produced. "The accompanying view (Plate X) was taken from a hill near the city.

From this place Mr. Smith passed over an interesting and fertile country to the valley of San
Bernardino, and acquired much valuable topographical information. This portion of the route,
surveyed by Mr. Smith, is perfectly practicable for railroads, and therefore I proceed at once to
a description of the Cajon Pass, which he surveyed, and which leads from the San Bernardino
valley, through the Coast range, towards the Mohave.

CAJON PASS.

The general direction of this pass is nearly north and south, the base towards the Pacific
being more easterly than the summit. In approaching the summit from the Mohave there is
no appearance of ascending a mountain. With the exception of a few low hills or undulations
on the crest, it is apparently a continuous inclined plane. Arriving at the crest, we are at the
summit of a very steep hill, descending which we come into the bed of the Cajon creek, 836 feet
below the summit. The road then follows the creek down to the San Bernardino valley.

The survey commenced at the Pacific base, about 14 miles from the summit. For the first 63
miles the average grade was less than 100 feet, and for the next 63 less than 200 feet, averaging
165 feet to the mile. The ascent of the steep hill is now commenced. We ascend for 0.96
mile, at the rate of 534 feet per mile, then 0.23 mile at 1,271 feet, and arrive at a point 40 feet
below the crest. In the descent from the crest we have 21 miles, at 207 feet per mile; after
which is a nearly uniform slope of 90 feet to the mile to the Mohave river, distant from the
summit 19 miles.

It is evident that the mountain here can only be passed by a tunnel. Taking the grades as
given above with the corresponding horizontal distances—which were deduced from odometer
meásurement—to be correct, it is found by calculation that if we start a tunnel from the creek

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36 SURVEY OF SAN GORGONIO PASS.

at the base of the steep hill, with an ascending grade of 100 feet to the mile, the length of such
a tunnel would be 3.4 miles, Such a tunnel would emerge on the eastern slope at a point
below all steep grades, and from its eastern extremity to the Mohave no grade exceeding 90 feet
would be required. In the Cajon creek the grades would be steeper, but Luce could be
much reduced by taking advantage of the side-slopes.

The survey of the Cajon Pass finished the work assigned to Mr. Smith, and the information
he obtained was very valuable. His note-books show that his work was done in à very thorough
manner.

LIEUTENANT PARKE'S ROUTE—SAN GORGONIO PASS.

On the 8th November, as before stated, the party was divided. The results of the expedition
down the Mohave have already been detailed. Lieutenant Parke, with the wagon-train, passed
through the Cajon without difficulty, and reached the Mormon settlement of San Bernardino, a
flourishing little village near the mountain of the same name.

SSS Te
MORMON SETTLEMENT IN THE SAN BERNARDINO VALLEY, WITH A VIEW OF THE PEAKS OF SAN BERNARDINO AND SAN GORGONIO.

Having procured supplies here, he proceeded through the pass of San Gorgonio, thus once
more arriving to the eastward of the Coast range. "The pass was surveyed, and proved to be a
very good one.

The high mountain of San Bernardino is the highest in the Coast range. Its height is not
known with accuracy, but approaches 9,000 feet. Southeast of this mountain is the peak of
San Gorgonio, nearly as high. These two mountains, whose peaks are 30 miles apart, approach
each other at their base, and the open pass between is known as the pass of San Gorgonio, and

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SURVEY OF SAN GORGONIO—AND ROUTE FROM THENCE TO WARNER’S RANCHO. 37

ss one of the lowest in the Coast range, being but 2,800 feet above the sea. This pass, if named
after one of the mountains, would more naturally take the name of the more prominent one ;
but it doubtless received its present name from that of the rancko, the land in the pass being
styled in the Spanish grant the ** Rancho de San Gorgonio.”’

SAN GORGONIO MOUNTAIN.

The above sketch represents Weaver's house, near the summit of the pass; the foot-hills of
San Bernardino mountain are seen on the right.

The survey of this pass was commenced on the Santa Anna river, about two miles from the
Mormon settlement. From here the line of survey followed up a dry branch of that river, and,
passing the divide, descended another stream, dry except near its source, to the desert. The
grades in this pass are so uniform that it is difficult, in its description, to say anything more
than to state the degree of declination to be overcome. After ascending for 64 miles, at a grade
of 45 feet to the mile, we have 181 miles to the divide, at an average grade of 78 feet ; during
the whole of which distance, with the exception of 14 mile at 127 feet, the greatest deviation
from the average is eight feet per mile. Descending from the divide, we have 28 miles at an
average grade of 69 feet. This pass is so uniform and open that it may be considered the best
pass in the Coast range. -

Having gained the eastern base of the mountains, Lieutenant Parke conducted his train along
their base till he struck the wagon-road leading to Fort Yuma. Along the first part of the
route the country was inhabited by friendly Indians. It was evident that here the land was
below the level of the sea, and that they were travelling in the bed of what was once either a
lake, or the head of the Gulf of California. Water was obtained near the surface by digging;
a distinct. water-line was visible on the rocks, and. the barometer indicated a depression below

38 SURVEY OF WARNER’S PASS

the sea-level of nearly 100 feet. It is highly probable that further from the base of the mount-
ains the depression would have been greater. As they approached the wagon-road the ground
was very much cut up by gullies, which, doubtless, would have been avoided by keeping further
from the foot-hills. It was necessary to keep close to them, however, as the only chance of
procuring water.

A mountain range extends from San Bernardino mountain in a southeasterly direction, nearly
if not quite to the Colorado. Between these mountains and the mountains on the Mohave
nothing is known of the country. I had never heard of a white man who had penetrated it.
I am inclined to the belief that it is a barren, mountainous desert, composed of a system of
basins and mountain ranges. It would be an exceedingly difficult country to explore, on account
of the absence of water, and there is no rainy season of any consequence. I was informed by
the commanding officer at Fort Yuma that there they usually had but one rain during the year,
which fell in August.

The country included between the mountain above mentioned, the Coast range, and the
Colorado, is level, or but slightly undulating, and is known as the Colorado Desert. In many
parts it is destitute of vegetation.

Lieutenant Parke having struck the wagon-road, crossed the Coast range at Warner's Pass,
and encamped near Warner's rancho, at Agua Caliente, where we joined him on the 29th of
November.

It now only remained to examine the passes in the Coast range leading into San Diego, and
the desert between the mountains and Fort Yuma, to complete the work which had been assigned
tome. As far as I could ascertain, the only passes known to the citizens of San Diego, and advoe
cated by them as suitable for railroad routes, were Warner's Pass and Jacum Pass. The latter
was supposed to lie partly in Mexican territory. It was known that, even if the mountains were
once crossed at Warner’s Pass, it would be impossible to follow the wagon-road to San Diego,
and that another route must be found. In Warner's Pass a creek rises and flows towards the
Pacific, but where it empties was not known. I instructed Lieutenant Parke to descend this
creek to its mouth, and then proceed along the coast to San Diego, where he would gain as much
information as possible with regard to the passes in the mountains; and should the Jacum
Pass be favorably spoken of, to proceed to its examination, and then return to San Diego. ln
the mean time I intended to cross the desert to Fort Yuma, and expected to return and arrive at
San Diego about the same time. The services of the escort being no longer required, Lieutenant
Stoneman, with the wagon-train, proceeded at once to San Diego.

WARNER’S PASS.

In order to have the means of measuring distances with the odometer, and also to carry
barley for the mules, I took a wagon with me to Fort Yuma. We started on the 1st of Decem-
ber; Lieutenants Parke and Stoneman both starting at the same time on their respective
routes. Our route lay through Warner's Pass to the desert, and thence across to the Colorado.
Warner's Pass had already been surveyed by Lieutenant Parke, and I will now describe its
prominent characteristics. |

. Leaving Warner's house, we reach the actual summit of the Coast Range in five miles, and
in ten miles more we arrive at a little valley called San Felipe. The drainage of the valley
is through a narrow, rocky caiion, the mountains on each side rising precipitously, and being
covered with huge blocks of granite, This being impracticable for a wagon- ‚the trail is

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FROM SAN FELIPE CANON TO HEAD OF CARRIZO CREEK. 39

led over a collateral divide, 400 feet above San Felipe, and is brought upon the headwaters of
another creek; it then follows this creek to the desert, continually descending, with the excep-
tion of half a mile, where it crosses a hill to avoid a cañon of the creek.

From Warner's to within 21 miles of the summit the grades are easy; but from here we
have 14 mile at 215 feet per mile, and 1 mile at 280 feet per mile. Descending from the divide
we have a grade of 333 feet for 14 mile, and of 140 feet for 4 miles more. Suppose we connect
the point where the ascending grade of 280 feet commences, with that where the descending
grade of 333 feet ends; we should have a tunnel 24 miles long, with a grade, descending to-
wards San Felipe, of 100 feet to the mile; and toreach such a tunnel we have to overcome a
grade of 215 feet per mile.

Having arrived at San Felipe, a road might be made through the cañon above mentioned,
with immense labor and expense. It would have to be built on the side-hill, and there would
probably be required from 10 to 15 miles of road of the most expensive character to reach the
valley at the lower end of the cañon ; for although this cañon is but little more than four miles
long, the fall averages at least 400 feet to the mile.

But if the canon be rejected, and the route at present pursued by the wagon-road be preferred,
we must ascend from the valley of San Felipe, and cross the collateral divide between that
valley and the headwaters of Carrizo creek. To do this we have a gentle ascent till near the
divide, when a tunnel of 300 yards would be required to pass the steep pitch, where the ascent
is at the rate of 940 feet and the descent 740 feet per mile. Having passed the divide, the
wagon-road lies in the bed of the stream, dry during the greater part of the year. The descent

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40 ROUTE OVER THE COLORADO DESERT—SAND HILLS, ETC.

for 24 miles averages 180 feet per mile, and for nearly all this distance the bed is very narrow
and tortuous, and the rocky hills on either side exceedingly precipitous. In one place the rocks
have been cut away to afford room for the passage of a wagon. This bed of the creek would
not answer for the railroad, as in the wet season it is full of water.

The only other impediment before reaching the desert is at a point where the creek cañons.
The wagon-road avoids this by passing over a steep hill. For a railroad, heavy side-cuttings,
and probably a tunnel of a quarter of a mile, would be necessary. Carrizo creek is dry, except
at occasional points where the water is forced to the surface by rock. There is a constant
supply of water where it emerges from the hills to lose itself in the desert. The name is
Spanish, and means a kind of reed. It is applied, in California, particularly to that reed from
which the Indians collect sugar.

THE COLORADO DESERT.

The distance from Carrizo creek to the Algodones, the first point where the road strikes the
Colorado river, is 803 miles. The whole of this distance is nearly horizontal, offering, topo-
graphically, not the slightest impediment to the construction of a railroad. The main difficulty
is the barren nature of the country and want of water. It is believed that the latter may be
obtained in any desired quantity by digging. Not an inconsiderable portion of this desert is
below the level of the Colorado river. In 1849 this river broke through its banks, and the
water flowed inland for some two hundred miles, forming what is known as New river. In
many places it formed lagoons, while in others it confined itself to a narrow channel. The
water in the connecting channels having dried up, the lagoons still remain, and are of great
benefit to the emigrant.

Near the Colorado, and north of the road, is a strip of country about twenty miles long,
covered with sand-hills, and these have often been spoken of as a serious obstacle to the railroad.
From observations made by Mr. Blake, it is shown that these hills may be passed, either to the
north or south, without diffieulty. The discussion of the character of these sand hills, and of
the desert generally, appertains more to geology than topography. This subject has been
treated so ably and fully by Mr. Blake, that it would be superfluous for me to enlarge upon it.
It is sufficient for me to say that the desert may be considered the least difficult part of a rail-
way route in California. i

At the mouth of the Gila the banks of the Colorado are high, and the river narrower than
its average width. Generally there is a wide bottom subject to overflow, but this is not the
case at this point, and hence it presents advantages for bridging not frequently found.

During my return-journey to San Diego I broke the only barometer I had with me, which
prevented my making a profile from Warner’s to that place, as I had intended. This is the -
less to be regretted, as the route by the wagon-road on which I travelled is so utterly impracti-
cable, that it would have been wasting time to have attempted more than a survey with the
eye. lam aware that many of the ascents and descents may be avoided ; but there are others,
which offer serious difficulties, which must be encountered. The country between the crest of
the Coast range and the coast near San Diego is filled with ranges and spurs, and a minute
reconnaissance would have to be made before it can be mapped with any degree of accuracy.
The broken and rugged character of the region may be inferred from the annexed sketch taken
from a hill overlooking the battle-field of San Pasqual. The broad slope bordering the
mountains and extending to the Pacific is visible in the distance.

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GENERAL DEDUCTIONS. 41

I arrived at the Mission of San Diego on the 19th of December. This mission is located in a
long, narrow valley, formed by the streams descending the slope, and is now occupied as a
military post. There is a fine grove of olive-trees in front of the mission buildings.—(See
Plate XII.)

On the 20th of December Lieutenant Parke came in. He reported that he had followed to
the sea the creek which rises in Warner's Pass, and found it emptied near the Mission of San
Luis Rey. The creek in many places passed through rocky caiions impassable for mules, and
Lieutenant Parke is of the opinion that it is unfit for railroad purposes. Leaving San Luis
Rey, he travelled near the coast to San Diego, and here he could gain no information of any
other pass than the Jacum Pass. He therefore made a rapid reconnaissance of this pass, and
became convinced it was utterly impracticable. The mountains were high and rugged, and it
was almost impossible to travel on muleback off the trail.

From all that I saw and could learn, I am forced to the belief that there is no pass leading
directly into San Diego. To demonstrate this without a doubt, a detailed examination must be
made, and if properly done should occupy three or four months of field duty. But a very small
party would be required for this work, and the result would be a good topographical map of the
country.

The field-work of the expedition being now concluded, the party was discharged, with the
exception of the scientific corps, who, with myself, proceeded to San Francisco to compile the
notes of the survey, and prepare a report.

GENERAL DEDUCTIONS.

In the foregoing description of the portions of country surveyed, I have endeavored to show
the nature of the passes, &c., by numerical data, so that any one may be able to judge as well
as myself of their adaptability for railroad purposes. I will now endeavor to state what, in
my opinion, are some of the necessary results of the conformation of the country as it has been
shown to exist.

Under the supposition that a road has been constructed from the Mississippi river to the mouth
of the Gila, if the question is simply how to continue that road to the Pacific, the answer is at
once apparent. It would follow a nearly direct line to the entrance of the San Gorgonio Pass,
the best in the Coast range; then through that pass to the San Bernardino valley ; and from
there to San Pedro, or some other point in its vicinity on the coast. But the port of San Pedro
has no harbor ; and, in fact, the only really good harbors on the coast of California are those of
San Francisco and San Diego. It hence becomes advisable to examine into the best routes to
these two places.

To go from the mouth of the Gila to San Francisco, we must still go through the pass of San
Gorgonio, unless we follow up the Colorado river, till we can find a place to leave it, and CTOSS
the Basin to the mountains. This latter route is mostly unexplored; but it is believed the
difficulties of crossing the Basin will cause the preference to be given to the former. Having
arrived in the San Bernardino valley, the road must either follow near the coast, or it must
recross the Coast range, cross the Sierra Nevada, and enter the Tulare valley. Whether there
be a practicable route in the Coast range or not, is a problem as yet unsolved. A party is now
in the field surveying that portion of the country. To follow the other route we must cross
from the valley of Los Angeles to that of Santa Clara, and thence by the New Pass to the

42 CONCLUDING REMARKS.

Great Basin, when we can, without difficulty, reach the base of the Sierra at any desired point.
Of all the passes surveyed in the Sierra, the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass has been found to be the
best. Going then from New Pass, in nearly a direct line across the Basin, to the entrance of
Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, we cross the Sierra, and enter the Tulare valley. From the head of this
valley to the navigable waters of San Francisco bay, we can descend at once without a single
obstruction, for it is not at all necessary to follow the route taken by our wagon-train, crossing
Livermore’s Pass; but it is preferable to follow the shorter route, going at once to near the
mouth of the San Joaquin river, and thence along the shores of Suisun bay to Martinez, thus
avoiding all mountains. But this road does not lead directly to San Francisco. In order to
reach that city it will be necessary to cross the Coast range again. This range has never been
instrumentally explored, exeept at one or two points; but there is very little doubt but that it
may be crossed at Pacheco’s Pass, or in its vicinity ; in which case the road would enter the
valley of San Juan, from which, passing through the San José valley, and along the shores of
San Francisco bay, it may be brought into the city itself. The distance from the mouth of the
Gila to Martinez by the route indicated would be 680 miles, and to San Francisco by Pacheco's
Pass about the same distance.

To reach San Diego from the mouth of the Gila the road would have to go through the pass
of San Gorgonio, and along the coast turning the mountainous country which lies to the south ;
for Warner's Pass presents so many difficulties that, in my opinion, it can never be used for a
railroad route. The distance to San Diego by the San Gorgonio route would be 315 miles.

Should the road, instead of being built to the mouth of the Gila, strike the Colorado higher
up, and, crossing the Basin, ascend the Mohave river, to reach San Francisco it would leave
that river 25 miles below the point where the Spanish trail strikes it, and from thence follow à
direct line to the entrance of Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass.

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

Accompanying this report are tables giving the data from which the profile of each pass was
made, and the result of the calculations; also a profile of each pass, and four maps. Asa
minute survey of the Tejon Pass and the Cañada de las Uvas was made, I have made a separate
map of each of these passes, on a large scale, accompanied by a double profile—the one obtained
from barometric measurements with the level. I have made also a separate map, to include all
the passes in the Sierra Nevada, from Walker's Pass, on the north, to the Coast range. T i
portion of the country was thoroughly examined. The general map, including the whole
route, from Benicia to Fort Yuma and San Diego, is on two sheets. I have refrained from
putting anything on this map that was not positively known, and it is chiefly the result of my
own examinations. I am indebted, however, to the notes of Captain W. H. Warner, for
information converning some portions of the Coast range. Captain Warner had been engaged
for two years in surveying in the lower part of California; and, had he lived, doubtless would
have produced an excellent map of that portion of the country. As it is, his notes have never
been compiled. I consider these maps, profiles, and tables to constitute my report. In these
everything is presented in a concise form, and what I have written is merely a translation iato
words of what is here expressed in numbers and drawings.

The instruments for astronomical observations which I had, were a sextant, made by Gambey,
of Paris, and two large chronometers, one by Charles Frodsham, No. 1961, the other by Dent,
No. 2057. Observations were taken as frequently as circumstances would admit, numbering

CONCLUDING REMARKS. 43

60 observations for time, and 83 for latitude. At the Depot camps we had opportunities of
multiplying observations, so as to test thoroughly our chronometers, and the results were very
satisfactory, as far as the Mohave river. The chronometers were enclosed in leather cases, and
these were placed in a valise made for the purpose, and were transported in the spring-wagon,
except where the road was rough, in which case they were carried by hand. Upon leaving the
Mohave Depot camp, to follow down the river, I was obliged to pack them on a mule, and
though the mule was led, and every precaution taken, we found that they changed their rates,
and the longitudes obtained by calculation were not reliable.

A party properly equipped for the field should be provided with at least three chronometers.
Having but two, if one suddenly changes its rate there are no means of ascertaining which one
it is without a series of observations, which would cause delay and might much embarrass the
operations of the party. It is my opinion that little reliance can be placed upon chronometers
which are transported on pack-mules.

The barometers which were used in the survey were constructed by James Green, of New
York. Two of these were syphon barometers and two cistern, of the pattern used by the
United States Medical Department. An aneroid barometer was also carried.

As the observations for the profiles of the Tejon Pass and the Cañada de las Uvas were made
by both barometer and spirit-level, I have been enabled to compare the results by each, and
have presented them in the profiles of these passes attached to the maps. These profiles show
that, by the ordinary methods of computation, the results from the barometer and level agree
very closely, the difference not being sufficiently great to affect the questions of grade and
practicability. But it is believed that, from the data obtained during the survey, an improved
method of computation may be deduced, and the deviation of the barometric from the true
altitude very much reduced. If this should prove to be the case, it will add greatly to the use-
fulness of the barometer as a surveying instrument.

RARE LE.

d

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
WAR DEPARTMENT.

ROUTES IN CALIFORNIA, TO CONNECT WITH THE ROUTES NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH AND THIRTY-SECOND
PARALLELS, EXPLORED BY LIEUT. R. 8. WILLIAMSON, CORPS TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853.

GEULUSGTOUAL REPORT,

~

WILLIAM P. BLAKE,

GEOLOGIST AND MINERALOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION.

WASHINGTON, D. C.

1857.

ies to the Pacific, examined by the Expedition under your E in 1853.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

CONTENTS.

ITINERARY, OR NOTES AND GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE
GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE.

۱ CHAPTER I.

-
Isthmus of Darien to San Francisco—San Francisco to the San Joaquin ۰

Aspinwall on alluvial ground.— Fossils. — Tertiary fossils at Monkey Hill.-—Argillaceous sandstone at Barbacoas — Chagres
river.— Drift near Gorgona.—Boulders and river-?rift of igneous rocks at Gorgona and Cruces.—Cruces to Panama.—
Summit ridges of the mountains probably of compact green stone. —Panama.—Strata of red sandstone.—Lignite. 一
Panama to San Francisco.—Basaltic islands.— Gulf of California. —Mountains of the Peninsula.—San Diego.—Hills of
modern strata.—Islands of Santa Barbara channel.—Arched rock Anacapa.—-Point en — Change of hope on
at Cape Conception. —bitumen.— Point g Monterey.—Granite.— Golden Gate.— ncieco. —Sand beach. —Sand-
stone and sand hills.—San Francisco to Benicia.—Sandstone strata. pe hills. a of ne —Mar
tinez.—Mt. Diablo and Diablo Valley. pa one and conglom —Diallage rock from Mt. e en in the

` soil. —Livermore's Valley.—Livermore's Pass. —Strata of nd € conglomerate.—Outliers o

' of the fire on the wild oa i —Elkhorn.—-Plain of the San Joaquin.--Sloughs and marshes of the river.

* CHAPTER II.
Grayson's Ferry, on the San Joaquin, to Fort Miller.

San Joaquin river at Grayson’s Ferry. —Tuolumne river.——Alluvial land under cultivation.—Mitchell's bridge. —Terraces. — -
of

Dry creek to the Merced river.—Outcrops of sandstone.— Merced river. —Drift of erupted rocks. —Merced river to Bear
creek. —Table Hills. — Horizontal strata. —Fossil tree. —Foot hills of the Sierra.— Granitic and metamorphic rocks.—Clay
slate —Quartz veins.— Gold. ndstone strata ducens on the edges of the slates. pire veins.— Iron ore.—Burns'
creek. —Flat- ha hills. —Bear creek.—Section of the horizontal strata.—Sun-cracks in the strata. —Andalusite.—View
of the plains of the San Joaquin. ME Me waist rocks and quartz veins.— Little ابش‎ river.—Oppressive heat
of the plains.-—Mariposa river to the Fresno.—Granite. —Metamorphic rocks.— Chowchillas river.—Section.—Stratum of
conglomerate.—Slate containing andalusite.—Sand-drift of the Chowchillas.—Plains between the Chowchillas and the
Fresno.— Snow on the Sierra.— Fresno river; —Rich soil.—Granite.—Syenite.—Gold.-—Table-lands covered with lava.

CHAPTER III.
Fort Müler and the vicinity— Fort Miller to Ocoya creek.

Granitic hills.— View of the valley of the San Joaquin —Diurnal rise and fall of the water.—Temperature.—Salmon.—Ter-

races. —Gold.—Granite.—Lava plain.—Nature of the rock — Minerals in quee a 一 Strata of volcanic materials
under the basalt.—Origin of the lava.—Valleys of erosion.—Ancient rivers and water-falls.—Indians —Millerton.—-
Climate.—Fort Miller to King's river.—Fort Miller to Dry creek-—Terrace.—King's Fata — Sierra Nevada.—Sharp slate

ridges transverse to the Sierra.— Outline view. r.—King’ s river to the ejnt creeks.—Alluvial clay.— Four creeks. pon

uriant vegetation.—Irrigation. —Lost mountains.—Metamorphic rocks—Quartz rock.—Effects of the snow-peaks of
Sierra on the climate. —Four creeks to Moore's creek.— Auriferous rocks. — Trap. —White creek to’ v or Ompa d.
“Tertiary formation at the base of the Sierra Nevada.

VIIL CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.
Ocoya Creek Depot Camp—Ocoya creek to the Tejon—Tejon Depot Camp.

Ocoya creek.—Rounded hills.—Fossils.—Charcoal and pumice-stone in the strata.—Hills between camp and the Posuncula |
river. —Bottom-land of Posuncula river.—Swamp or Shallow pond.—Rounded hills on the west side of the Tulare valley.— |
. Sandstone and fossils of Ocoya creek.—Selenite.—Shark’s teeth on the hills.—Ocoya creek to the Tejon.—Steep slopes of
the hills Fa river.—Terrace.— Fossil stems —Conglomerate.—Terraces.—Light argillaceous soil.—Tertiary
hills.—Drift at Tejon creek.—Tejon.—Sierra Nevada.—Depot camp. —Soil of the Tejon.—Oak openings—Indian reser-
I udin of the soil by Indians.—Gra m itis of the Tejon valley.

CHAPTER V.
Tejon to San Amedio—Cañada de las Uvas.

Reported existence of silver. — Entrance to the Cañada de las Uvas.—Sandstone strata, probably Tertiary —Miocene fossils.—

Contorted strata. — Upraised sandstone strata.—Oak trees and acorns.—Mountain sheep.— Granite and gneiss.—Ruins of
u forge. ias tpe of Br —Fir trees.—Granite of the ravine.—Large masses of antimony ore.—Outcrops of the
vein. —Gossan.—Gyps co an of the vein.—View from the top of the mountain.—Coast mountains.—Dry lake or

E in. pnm to € Die e las Uvas.—Section of sandstone strata. — Mountain sheep.— Deer. —Cañada de las Uvas.—
Dr.ft from the Pass in the E —Sandstone filled with fossil shells.—Granite and metamorphic rocks.—Oak trees.—
war, bears.—Open valley. P unsuper ti —Dry lake covered with salt. ee bear. —Granite and erupted rock. —Up-

strata of sandstone.— d hills.—Erupted rocks in dykes:—Section of sandstone strata.—Fossil stems of

c. silicified. —Ridges of white وس‎ at the summit of the pass. pm ore.—Tertiary strata.

CHAPTER VI.

Tejon to the Great Basin and Pass of San Francisquito—Pass of San Francisquito to the Mojave
river.

'Tejon Pass.—Granitic and metamorphic rocks. 一 Slope of the basin.— Yucca trees.—Tertiary.—Lost mountains.—Spring.—
Porphyry.—Spring resorted to by Indians.- -Horns of the mountain sheep. —Dry lake-bed of clay.—Granite forming lost
mountains.—Transverse chain of mountains, forming the southern boundary ot the basin.—Pass of San Francisquito.—
Upraised strata, brecciated.—Volcanic rocks and obsidian in the strata.—Foot hills of sedimentary rocks.—Antelope. —
Granite.—Lake Elizabeth.—View from the summit of the Pass.—Granitic and metamorphic rocks —Upraised ar OE
probably Tertiary.—Talcose and auriferous slates.—Gold.—San Francisquito Pass to the Mojave river.—Cow ETT
Hornblende and mica slate.— Hills of oa ee uo valleys.—Slope of the Great Basin. —Plants. Haro
river.— Granite and metamorphic rocks.—Alluvi

CHAPTER VI.

Mojave River, by qe tetas s Pass, to San Fernando and Los Angeles.—Los u n to San
Bernardino.—Cajon Puss.

Mojave T: Williamson's Pass.— Granite.—Johnson's river.—Copper ore.—Inclined strata of sandstone. — Cottonwood
Vise upted rocks and agate.—Cow camp.—Rounded hills. —Breccia of volcanic rocks. —Erupted dyke of porphyry.—
Grani = ds summit of Williamson's Pass.—Trap dyke.—Vein of copper ore.— White granite.—Sandstones and con-
gl urge upraised. — Bluff of sandstone. —Graphic syenite.—Iron ore. —Metamorphic rocks.—Low hills of sandstone.—
San Francisquito rancho.—Alluvium of the Santa Clara.—Sandstone.—San Fernando Pass.— Tertiary fossils —Fig trees

ngeles.—Bitumen springs.— Vineyards and wine.—San Gabriel.—Road to San Bernardino.—-San al
mons — Soil and climate of the valley.— Productions.— Hot springs.— Analysis of the deposit from the springs. —B
hot water. Pis of the nn camp.—Soil containing salt.—Cajon Pass. —Upraised strata of sandstone, MENU
'Tertiary.—Granite.— Limestone.— Vegetation.

CHAPTER VIII.

San Bernardino to the Colorado desert.— Colorado desert to Carrizo Creek and Warner's valley.

San Bernardino or San Gorgoño Pass.— Salt on the borders of the Santa Anna.—Weaver’s rancho. er 200% Gorgoño
meuntain. —Granitic and ee toe rocks.—Hocks cut by driving sand. —Prevailing wind. —Metamorphic rocks. — -

CONTENTS, IX

Section.—Absence of vegetation.—Limestone.—Hot spring.—Palm tree.— Cactacex.— Drifting sand.—Barley field.—
Deep well.—Sand hills. —Blue clay, forming a hard surface.—Water-line on the rocks.—Calcareous incrustation.—Evi-
dences of an ancient lake.—Small ici an fresh-water species —Cohuilla Indians. —Villages and springs.—Tradition of a
great sheet of water covering the valley.—Saline incrustations —Soil of the Howe] en —Water-line, its elevation.—
Thick calcareous incrustation.— View of the expanse of the rt.—Clearness of air.—Shadows of the mountains.—
Slope bordering the mountains.—Bottom of the ancient lake "us ines in ihe clay. ار‎ ae of strata holding concre-
tions. nn nn creek.—Shells.—Silicitied wood.—Sand drifts —Drift of volcanic rocks. ee
strata of Carrizo creek.—Agave.— Palm springs.—Vallecito.— Gneiss and mica slate.— Vegetation. — San F
Indians.—Rain.—Warner's Ha — Oak trees and grass —Warm springs.—Granite

CHAPTER IX.

Warner's to the Colorado desert.—Colorado desert to the mouth of the Gila.—Camp Yuma and
the vicinity.

en:‏ و و

Warner’s to San Felipe. —Granitic veins.—Granite and gneiss.—Valley of Carrizo creek.—Drift.—Fossils.—View of the |
desert —Signal mountain. —Mirage.—Distorted images of mountains. mo e the desert —Fossil shells. —Polished 4
pebbles. Ren: wood. —Big lagoon.—Little lagoon.— Water-courses. —New river.—Alamo Mocho.— Well.—Skeletons 2
of cattle.—Mezquit.— Larrea Mexicana.—Sand.— Mountains. —Pilot Kn i-r wells.—Cook's well.—Continuous
bank or terrace. ER SEHE AO danes.— Willows and cotton-woods.—Indian Moris s —Ferülity of the
soil.—Colorado river.—Red mud or silt.— Pilot Knob.-—Blackness and polish of the roc —V

ocks.—Travertin.— Agate.—Pebbles filled with fossils. —Conglomerate.—Plain of ihe pues ی‎ —Fort Yuma.—
Porphyritie ga —Chimney Peak.—Section of the butte at Fort Yuma.—Section along the river. Er strata.—

of the fissure in the Butte. —Earthquakes.—Mud Volcano.— Mountains nearest the 一 Plain covered
ih veld pebbles. 3 surface.—Agates and porphyries.—Silicified wood.—Gneiss. ae 3 the desert and E
sand hill =
E
CHAPTER X. D

Fort Yuma to Carrizo Creek.—Carrizo Creek to San Diego. E

UA
Ve ad ORE AMAT

Remarkable cleft in the rocks of Pilot Knob.—Terrace.—Sand-hills.—Extent and height of the hills.—Rain.—Rounded form
of the V AGER of sand.—Agate and quartz.—Sand-storm.—Silicified wood.—Argillaceous strata.—Approach to Carrizo

eek.—Barr وج‎ west of the Desert.— Erosion of Carrizo creek.—Banks of horizontal strata.—Fractures of the
bu due t وج‎ es, —Gypsum.—$Stratum of marine shells.—Silicified wood polished by sand.—Palm springs.— 3
Vegetation of the cues of the creek.— Granite and gneiss —Vallecito.—Basin-shaped valleys at pesa elevations.— E
Gneiss and mica slate.—Veins of feldspar traversing the rocks.—Large crystals of tourmaline 一 -San Felipe.—Havine near :

the Indian village.— Travertin of the creek.— Santa Isabel. —Granite. —Syenite.—Quartz veins and xpi of golg.—
San Pasqual.—Rounded hills of stratified formations.— Trap dyke. -T —Slope oe the nest — aep
of erosion.—Beach-shingle. —Fossil shells.—Punta Loma.—San Pedro.— Bluff o ill

Hard sandstone.—Sun-cracks.—Modern deposits containing shells.—Bitumen. i Santa Barbara.—Fossils.

x CONTENTS.

No. 2.

GEOLOGY OF PORTIONS OF THE ROUTE. '
CHAPTER: XI.

Observations on the orography and general features of relief of the middle and southern portions of
California.

Grandeur of the mountains and plaius.—Sierra Nevada and its prolongations southward.—Bernardino Sierra.—Peninsula
Sierra. —High valleys and table-lands of the northern portion of the Sierra Nevada.—Trend of the a —Southwest and
nor "SUME trend at the southern end.— Elevation of the chain.—Passes.—Southern limit of perpet ow.—Bernardino
Sierra.—Extent and position. —Trend.—The boundary of the Great “ee on the south.—Ge ay MEE to the Sierra
Nevada.—Sudden change in the trend of the coast at Point Conception.—Slope to the sea.—Difference of altitude between
the coast slope and the Great Basin.—Elevation of the chain and the passes.—Formerly called Sierra es — Peninsula
Sierra —Extent.—Trend.—General elevation.—Sharp and rugged outline. MK anie character.—Coast Mountains.—
Pirallel ranges and valleys.—Overlapping of the ranges.—Submerged ranges indicated by the lines of gg
cıevation.—Ranges between San Francisco ki the San Joaquin.—Mount Diablo.—Cleft or break in the whole chain. —
Golden Gate.—Valley of the Salinas.—Valley of the bay of San Francisco.—Mount Diablo and Livermore's Valley.—
Mountains of the Great Basin and Desert. Scip character. —Slopes.—Pai-ute range.—Desert range.— Plains and valleys.
Great valley of California. —Rivers.—Tulare lakes.— Colorado desert.—Extent of the plain.—Elevation.—Absence of rivers.
Trend —Elevation compared with the coast slopes and the Great Basin

CHAPTER XII.
Geology of the vicinity of San Francisco.

Enumeration of the principal formations.—Granite north and south of the Golden Gate.— Geological map.—San Francisco
sandstone.— Points at which it is exposed.— Section at Yerba Buena.— Sandstone and shales. —Decomposition of the rock.—
Globular masses, the result of decomposition.—Color of the rock.— Lithological characters. —Remains of plants. —Strata
under the city.—Resemblance to trap rock. — Point Te l island. —State’s prison quarry.—Section of the strata.—
Dislocation of a bed of the sandstone.—Marin island —Benicia sandstone.—Navy Point. —Conglomerate. mirae of the
strata at Navy Point.—Hard bluish green masses.— Probable ER of the strata with those near San Fran
Extension of the strata southward, near Mount Diablo.—Sandstone at New Almaden, San Juan, and north of the ‘Golden
Gate.—Bellingham bay sandstone, probably the same.—Age of the formation, fossils.—Probable Tertiary age. —Section
from San Francisco to the Pacific. —Metamorphic sandstone.—Jaspery or Prasoid characters.—Erupted rocks. —Granite.—
Trap.—Serpentine of Fort Point.—Diallage or Bronzite.—Globular character of the rock.—Strata imbedded in the ser-

pentine.—Post-Tertiary and alluvial deposits.—Encroachments of the sea. —Drift or surface accumulations. —Sand dunes.—
Beach on the Pacific as تاه‎ Valley. Stratification and ripple marks. —Artesian wells at San Francisco idi San
José.

CHAPTER XIII.
Tertiary formations of Ocoya creek, Monterey, and other localities.

cene n" at the head of the Tulare valley.— Eocene fossils.—Ocoya creek, Tertiary.—Extent of the formation.—
Sofi —Absence of vegetation. —Steep slopes —Lithological characters. —Pumice stone and volcanic ashes
tion of am ids — Charcoal.— Deposition of oxide of iron by infiltration. —Formation of gypsum.—Resemblance of the
lines of oxide of iron to those produced in strata by pressure.—Fossils.—Shells.—Sharks’ teeth.—Mastodon. ilicified
wood.-—Evidenees of shallow water and currents at the time of the deposition of the fossils.—Resem
accumulation.—Probable miocene age of the deposits.— Former existence of volcanoes in the Sierra Nevada, — Tertiary of
Carrizo creek and the Colorado desert.—Lithological characters. —Concretions. samen drift along the Colorado and
Gila. —Miocene fossils.—Tertiary of San Diego.—Trap dyke.—Fossils.—Tertiary of the Bernardino >ierra and San Fer-
wer -—Strata of Los Angeles and San Pedro.—Fossils.— Tertiary at Monterey. I tee characters. —Infusorial
ls — Fossil shells. —Foraminifera. —Tertiary of the southern end of the Great Basin.—Silicified stems. — Post-Pliocene
an of Monterey, San Pedro, and San Diego.—Recent elevation of the coast.—General observations on the Tertiary
formations. —Miocene at the توب‎ of the Sierra Nevada.—Comparisons.

. A RS adt LM a OTE pw =
۴ Y Mia ی‎ SO
> ۰ * ERN ESTNE REP ORE EN ی‎
$ oO m. 7 "s

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XIV.
Observations on the Tulare valley.

Desert-like aspect of the Tulare plains.—Slopes near the mountains.—The valley distinct from the valley of the San Joas
quin.— Extent of the = — Aspect of the Coast Mountains. —Surface and soil of the valley.—Clay soil. —Alluvium. —
Miry soil between King's river and the Four Creeks. —Gravelly slopes around the mountains.—Clay, or alluvial soil of the
lower part of the valley, inei beni by burrowing animals. —Fresh-water shells. —Cotton-wood trees.—Tule.—Vegetation
at the mouths of the rivers.—Quantity of water in the lakes. —Communication with the San Joaquin.—Saline incrusta-
tion.—Former submergence of the valley.—Great rapidity of evaporation.—Experiment to determine the amount. —
Resemblance between the Tulare valley and the valley of the Colorado Desert.

CHAPTER XV.

Geology of the Tejon Pass and Cañada de las Uvas. —Section of the Sierra Nevada.

m. Nevada at the Tejon.—Boundaries of the Tejon.—Tejon Pass and Cafiada de las Uvas.—Geological map and sec-
s — Section of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon.—Rocks of the conn ridge.—Planes of structure or lamination.—
"uam outerops in the plain. Pi t the Tejon ravine.—Whi mestone.—Rocks at the entrance to the Pass.—
Drift deposits.—Oak trees.—Rock at the summit, and beyon en ck.— White sia sedi limestone and quartz
reck.-—Probable sedimentary ea or folding of the strata.—Probable carboniferous age. —General trend of
the rocks.— Tertiary and post-tertiary deposits.—-Drift of the valley of the Pass. —Section at the Cañada de las Uvas.—
Observations on the section ; its direction. —Similarity of the rocks to those of the Tejon. White crystalline limestone in
ridges.—Granite near Casteca lake. —Limestone, with t dykes and iron ore.—-Probable synchronism of the limestone
with that of the Tejon.—Volcanic rocks and sandstone. 1 of the valley of the Pass to the Bernardino Sierra and
the slope of the Gral Basin.

CHAPTER XVI.

Observations on the southern part of the Great Basin.

Boundaries of the Basin as originally assigned. —Supposed haat range.—Mojave river not a tributary of the Colorado.—

Boundaries according to recent explorations.—Length an adth.—Geological structure of the southern portion.—Aspect

of the region from the crest of the Sierra Nevada. "aon of the Sierra Nevada on the climate.—Lost mountains.—
. Elevation of the surface. ipsus of the bounding ranges from the plateau. Fi ee Channels or valleys in the slopes.-

Inclination of the slopes.—Lowest parts of the Basin.—Mean elevation of the surface.— Geological structure of the Lost
mountains.—Me هت یی‎ rocks at the Mojave.—Grey granite.—Porphyry and volcanic rocks.—Stratified formations ;
slopes.—Tertiary strata and drift.— Rivers and their action on the slopes. —Dry lake-beds.— Mirage.— Prints on the clay,

like tracks.—-Whirlwinds of dust.—Streams and springs.— Mojave river; its alternate appearance and disappearance
Johnson's river.—Springs near the Lost mountains. ER at the Mojave, and beyond.—Artesian wells. ات و‎
on the masón and distribution of plants.

CHAPTER XVII.
The Colorado Desert.

Extent and boundaries of the desert.— Desert b 1 the Colorado.— Surface of the desert. —Hard cla ay.—Slopes.—Undulating
hills of sand.—Level and higher plain all with pebbles. روگ‎ ae surfaces of the pebbles.—Polished and blackened
rocks. —Abrasion and polishing produced by driving sand.—Elev of the surface of the desert.— Depression of a por-
tion below the sea-level.—Terraces. gode river. rn "we ons.—Metamorphic rocks.—Alluvium ; its extent
and anor characters. —Fossils. — ary ی‎ — Fossils. — Ancient lake.— Former extension of the "Gulf to San
Bernardino Mount. —Origin and u a the la orien of the former shore.—Calcareous depositions from the
water of the ۳۹ —Analysis of the travertin of sui Knob 一 Sand hills.— Position of the sand hills determined by the
terrace. —Outline of the sand hills.—The sand not an obstacle to the construction of a railroad.—Sources of water on the
desert.—New river.—Cook's well.—Alamo well.—Soda springs.—Salt lagoon —Distances pner localities of water.—
Necessity for wells.—Artesian wells. —Agricultural Linie of brs desert —Bottom-land of the Colorado and Gila.—
Cohuilla villages.—Necessity for irrigation 一 Irrigation by New river.—Climate and e of the air.—
Colors of distant mountains.—Mirage. —Effect of the jou on Pi M

CHAPTER XVIII.
Notes in the Gold Region.

San Francisco to Stockton.—Great inland current of air through the Golden Gate.—Alluvial formation at Stockton.—Slope
and horizontal strata.—Knight’s ferry.—Basalt.—Mica and clay slate, ‘‘ grave-stone slate."— Plateaux of basalt.—

XII CONTENTS.

Sonora.—White limestone. —Gold.— Irregular surface of Vias —Abbey's ferry.—Cave.—Murphy's. —Teeth of Elephas

and Mastodon—Mammoth trees. —Sequoia gigantea.— Cave city.— Limestone and cave.—Talcose slates and gold.—Moke-

lumne hill.—Cosumnes river.—Sacramento.——Alluvi a iium 一 Clay slate.—Basalt. ERROR: — Yankee Jim’s.—
Auriferous alluvia.—Forest hill.—Placer mine Crystalline gold.—Drift at Sarahville. hs il wood.—Michigan city.—
Auriferous drift of quartz ی‎ and gravel.—Hydraulic method of mining.—Sluic Mer Dorado aqueduct.—Ser-

pentine.—Cañon of the north fork.—Nevada and Grass valley.—Quartz veins and rn valley to Coloma.—
Granite and slates.—Sutter’s mill.-—Slates and trap dikes at Irish creek.—Crystals of gold. —Georgetown.—Mamaluke
hill.—Slates and auriferous drift. —Method of mining.—Washington Tunnel Company.—Rich vein of auriferous quart
Deposits at Cement hill.—Bed of an ancient river.—Collecting the gold from a sluice.—Minerals.—Telluret of silver.—_

Serpentine.— Volcanoville.—Rick specimens.—Mormon island. lh dede : ی و2‎ observations on the geology of the
"— region.—Talcose and clay slates. rapid rocks. —Belt of granite.—Belt of metamorphosed limestone, possibly
carboniferous.—Horizontal strata, tertiary.—Overflows of basaltic m ums mountains.—Auriferous drift,—Coarse

ift. —River drift. —Alluvial deposits.— Lacustrine deposits.
CHAPTER XIX.
Building materials.—Coal.—Lignite.— Bitumen.

Distribution of building materials. —Granite.—At the mouth of Gila.— Bernardino Pass.—Warner’s Pass.—Cajon Pass.—
Tejon Pass and ane de las Uvas —Tejon to Fort Miller rt Miller.—Fort Miller to Livermore’s Pass.—Granite at
sco.— Quarries at Monterey and Punta de los سجن‎ eae island. —Sandstone of San Francisco and its
vicinity. و‎ as a building material.— Sandstone of darem: Fort Ross, and Mokelumne hill.—Limestone.—
Limestone in the vicinity of San Francisco.—At the Tejon and Cafiada de las Uvas.—Cajon and San Bernardino.—
Bitumen.—Tar springs of Los Angeles.—Bituminous Ares diei of the bitumen.—Coal.—Absence of coal of carbon-
iferous age.—Bellingham bay coal.—Extent of the beds and quality of the coal.—Section.—Synchronism of the strata
with those of San Francisco.—Coal from Vancouver’s island.—Use of the coal on the steamer Active.—Cowlitz coal.—
Lignite near San Francisco.

: CHAPTER XX.
Metals, ores, and minerals.

. Ores of iron.—Magnetite at the Cañada de las Uvas and Williamson's Pass.—Limonite.—Copper and its ores.-—Copper
pyrites.—Vein in the Great basin.— Vitreous copper.—Native copper and red oxide of Vos un of antimony.—
Description of the vein and its association. ی‎ of the ores of antimony.—Furn: — Location of the vein.—
Lead.—Sulphuret of mercury, cinnabar.— Description of the ore and mine.—Furnaces for ate mmm of the metal
Gold.— Indications of gold along the route.— Quartz veins.— Placers near the San Francisquito rancho.—Auriferous vein
osa.—Colorado river.—Gold at Port Orford. سنج‎ gold.—Platinum and. iridosmine.— Analysis. —Silver.—
Telluret of silver, bessite.—Native arsenic.—Chromic iron.— Emerald nickel.—Ilmenite.—' Tourmaline.—Andalusite, or
macle.—Feldspar. —Bronzite, or diallage.—Chrysotile. en — Carbonate of lime. = nta T magnesia, —Salt.—
Carbonate of soda.

0 ی‎ oS

PST UE

E É E A : i T c
D re tote I y PNE VNDE T M | “ i^ RE
E q E Ja Ji era e pue 2 27 , ;
e n ام‎ a N | Ae > E % = ۳
a 4 ¥ * 5
= ۳۳1 u A
LÀ " d v. ES

APPENDIX.

a
E

ARTICLE I.
۱ NOTICE OF THE FOSSIL FISHES:
By Professor Lovis ۰

ARTICLE II.
_ DESCRIPTIONS OF THE FOSSIL SHELLS:
p Simio By T. A. CONRAD.
ARTICLE III.
CATALOGUE OF THE RECENT SHELLS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE NEW SPECIES :
By AUGUSTUS A. Gout, M.D.

ARTICLE IV. i.

LETTER FROM PROFESSOR J. W. BAILEY, DESCRIBING THE STRUCTURE OF THE FOSSIL PLANT, FROM

e CMS . PASUNCULA RIVER. ` Be db.

"ae ARTO ee aug

DESCRIPTION OF THE STRUCTURE OF THE FOSSIL WOOD FROM THE COLORADO DESERT: |
CARTIOEESVI. =

HEMI 3 OF THE SOILS AND INCRUSTATIONS:
: ۱ l By J. D. Easter, Ph. D.

EEL A AA وس‎ ES

) BY W. P. BLAKE ALONG THE ROUTE AND AT THE Mí

a
o. MEA. ۰

۱ Ico Fan haar.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

MAPS
M
1. Geological map of the vicinity of San Francisco
nr. Geological map of the Tejon Pass and Cañada de las Uvas and the vicinity, including the Pass of San Fran-
disquito and “Williamson's PAG. a aa a a Rape eS ia nd quam num pai xv.
Iv. Geological map of the Colorado desert and the vicinity T.
v. General geological map of a part of the State of California At the end.
SECTIONS. dd
l. Vertical section of the tertiary strata at Navy Point, Benicia ------ e
2. Vertical section of the strata at Bear cree Sopa L
3. Vertical section of the strata at Ocoya or Pose ee I.
4. Geological section of the Coast Mountains and Sierra Nevada, from the Farallones islands and San Francisce to
ES I.
5. Geological section of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon Pass 2222 ---- - ------ -- -- -- -------- --- === ==. nt.
6. Geological section from the Tulare Valley and the Tejon Depot Ge) to Taheechaypah Prairie --------------- IV.
7. Geological section of the Sierra Nevada at the Cañada de las Uvas--------------------------------.------- IV.
8. Geological section of the Bernardino Sierra, from the Great u to the Pacific ocean, at San Pedro----------- v
9. Geological section from the Colorado river to the Pacific oeean qum ru چا‎ YE
10. Geological section of the Pass of San Bernardino or San Gorgofio - 2 - - -- -- --- ---- aaa -- „men ren va.
11. Geological section of the Pass of San Bernardino, from north to south. --- -- - -- - ------- ------- === --- 7777
12. Geological section of the Colorado desert c afa ak in aso vt.
13. Section from the Colorado river along the valley of New river to the valley of the Ancient Lake ------------- VE
14. Section showing the terraces and sand hills on the desert............-.---------.------------ ooo” vill
VIEWS.
View I. Vicinity x det Miller. Chas. Koppel i Frontispiece.
I. United S military post, Beis Chas: Koppel s _ Chapter I, pP. ----
II. Crossing xn Chowchillas river. Chas. Koppel z I gl
IV. Sierra Nevada, from the Four Creeks. W. P. Blake - HE eee
V. Great Basin, from the summit of the Tejon Pass. Chas. Koppel > FE re
VI. Mission and plain of San Fernando. Chas. Koppel iss VII mur
VII. Water-line and shores of the ancient lake. Chas. Koppel - vill MUN
VIII Point of rocks covered with a calcareous incrustation. Chas. Koppel, from a sketch by
Wu DB > VIII u.
IX. Ravines in the bed ofthe ancient lake. Chas. Koppel pm VII es
X. Rounded hills, tertiary, between Ocoya creek and Posuncula river. Chas. Koppel------- AME. =
XI. Valley in the slope of the Great Basin. Chas. Koppel ای‎ XVI 215
XII. Mirage on the Colorado desert. W. P. Blake Ao oi Mer
XII. Metamorphic rocks, borders of the desert. Chas. Koppel a XVIII EET
XIV. Mammoth tree, ‘‘ Beauty of the Forest," Sequoia Gigantea. W. P. Blake Beds Qi eres
WOOD ENGRAVINGS.* Pais:
View from Benicia, looking southwest ee ee 5
ی‎ EE IA A a a =
DI 和

Effect of the prevailing wind upon trees nn adt wenn

* The sketches nt wh h ; 3 =
: P 5

ILLUSTRATIONS. XY e |
Page.
Concretion and arch of sandstone 9
Table hiils near the Merced river 12
Section of a fossil tree i 12
Foot hills of the Sierra Nevada. Drawn by Chas. Koppel 13
Section showing the unconformability of slates and sandstones " 14
Remnant of a stratum of sandstone. Chas. Koppel 14
nn at the crossing of the Chowchillas river 16 "
e hills near Fort Miller. Chas. Koppel 17
Valley of the San Joaquin at Fort Miller. Chas. Koppel 19
Elevated plain of basaltic lava 21
Section of the valley of the San Joaquin at Fort Miller 22
Terraces on King’s river 25 ^ |
Crest of the Sierra Nevada from King's river 26 4
Outliers of ds DI CONDE NE Li oce dd cass in dion Hi ia eel i 29 A
Section near White creek 30 3
Valley a tertiary hills 30 E
Contact of the granite with tertiary strata Si ۱
Depot Camp, Ocoya creek 32 |
Valley of Posuncula river 35
Fossil stems of plants 36
Tejon Depot Camp. Chas. Koppel 38
Inclined strata of sandstone near San Amedio - 45
Section of sandstone strata 49
Section near the pass of San Francisquito 56
Section at the camp, Mojave river 64
Sandstone strata overlaid by drift i 66
luff of sandstone, Williamson’s Pass. Chas. Koppel 70
Graphic syenite, Williamson’s Pass 71
Prickly pear near San Fernando. Chas. Koppel 74 :
Mission of San Gabriel 78 e
Uplifted sandstone, Cajon Pass. Chas Koppel 86 =
Pointed outcrops of sandstone 87 por
Rock cut by driving sand : 92
Section on the east side of San Gorgofio 93
View from the camp near the desert. iu Koppel 94
n Gorgofio mountain, from m Wel 96
ee Colorado desert 102
Concretions lying in lines on the surface 102
Outlines presented by the mirage, Colorado desert > 108
Well in the desert, Alamo Mocho 110
Valley of the Colorado, from Pilot Knob.... 113
Chimney Fort Yuma | 114
+ Section of the Colorado river at Fort Yuma 114
Section on the bank of the Colorado 115
Barren mountains west of the desert. Charles Koppel 120
Faults in strata of sandstone, Carrizo creek 121
Santa Isabel. Charles Koppel 125
Valley of San M Charles Koppel 127
San Diego, from t d 129
Contorted strata, er Buena island 146
Section of sandstone and shale, Yerba Buena 146
Formation of spheroids of aiii yd posit 146
tion of the strata at the State's prison qu 149
Dislocation of a bed of sandstone, State's prison quarry 149
Section of the strata at Navy Point, Benicia 151
Section from San Francisco to the Pacific 155
Flexure of the metamorphic strata, New Almaden 156
Sandstone and shales imbedded in serpentine 158
Deposition of oxide of iron by percolation x 168
Fossil shark’s teeth, Ocoya creek 171
Tooth of the mammoth - 186

Segregation in granite wig cuin À 200

*^ — XVI ILLUSTRATIONS.

Vein of Feldspar traversing the granite 200
Segregated veins of feldspar 203

Local section near station 183 : 204
Section across the valley of Tejon creek 207

= Section north and south near the summit of the Cafiada de las Uvas . 210
Channels in the slope of the Great Basin 215
Vegetation of the slope of the basin near the Cajon Pass. Charles Koppel....... 226
Granite furrowed and polished by moving sand 231
Section of the sand hills covering the bank 241
Section of the sand hills 242
Deposition of the sand on the lee side of obstacles : 243
Irregular surface of limestone exposed by mining 255
Placer mining by the EOE method, Michigan City. From a dag typ 265

Ideal section of a mining 266
Section of the hill-side at Georgetown 212

River Cañon, valley of erosion in slate 278
Reverberatory furnace for extracting crude antimony : 293

5 Furnace for the extraction of crude antimony 295
Outcrop of a great quartz vein 297
Crystal of tourmaline 304

Crystals of andalusite or macle : 305

i

J

۳

ITINERARY,

NOTES AND GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE GEOLOGY, MINER-
ALOGY, AND AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES OF THE ROUTE.

CHAPTERI.

ISTHMUS OF DARIEN TO SAN FRANCISCO-SAN FRANCISCO TO THE
SAN JOAQUIN RIVER.

ani ON ALLUVIAL GROUND.—FOSSILS.— TERTIARY FOSSILS AT GATUN.—ARGILLACEOUS SANDSTONE AT BARBACOAS.—UHAGRES

MODERN STRATA.—ISLANDS OF SANTA BARBARA CHANNEL.—ARCHED ROCK, ANACAPA.—POINT CONCEPTION.—CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE

AT CAPE CONCEPTION.—BITUMEN.—POINT PINOS, MONTEREY.—GRANITE.—GOLDEN GATE, SAN FRANCISCO —SAND-BEACH.—SANDSTONE

AND SAND HILLS.—SAN FRANCISCO TO BENICIA.—SANDSTONE STRATA.—ROUNDED HILLS.—STRATUM OF CONGLOMERATE.— MARTINEZ —

Mount DIABLO AND DIABLO VALLEY.—SANDSTONE AND CONGLOMERATE.—DIALLAGE ROCK FROM MOUNT DIABLO.—ÜRACKS IN THE SOIL.—

LIVERMORE'S VALLEY.—LIVERMORE'S PASS.—STRATA OF SANDSTONE AND CONGLOMERATE.—OUTLIERS OF CONGLOMERATS.—EFFECT OF

THE FIRES ON THE WILD OAT.—ELKHORN.—PLAIN OF THE SAN JOAQUIN.—SLOUGHS AND MARSHES OF THE RI

June 6, 1853.—Left New York for Aspinwall in the steamer Georgia, and arrived on the
morning of the 15th. The highlands of Porto Bello were seen on the left as we entered the
bay, and on the right several high peaks loomed up in the distance, their deep blue color con-
trasting finely with the luxuriant tropical verdure of the shores. Aspinwall is built on marshy,
alluvial ground ; the margin of a tropical swamp. Wharves have, however, been built beyond
the water line, and the intervening space was being filled in with earth brought down on the
railroad from a place called Monkey Hill, generally known on the Isthmus as the burial ground
for thousands who have died of the malarious fever contracted during the construction of the
road. The earth is clayey, without much sand, and is strongly colored by oxide of iron and
black films—apparently, oxide of manganese. It is filled with casts of fossil shells; all marine.
Bivalves were most numerous, and among them Pectens and Tellina were recognized. Other
casts were probably of the genus T'urritella ; a tertiary or post-tertiary age is thus indicated
for the formation from which the clay is obtained.

Aspinwall to Barbacoas, June 16.— We proceeded from Aspinwall to Barbacoas by the rail-
road ; the latter place is on Chagres river, and the present terminus of the road, the bridge not
being complete. At Gatun, or Monkey Hill?, where we stopped for a few moments, I obtained
several fossil shells from the embankment at the side of the road. They are very numerous,
and well preserved in a greenish sandy clay, which is very soft, and apparently of quite recent
formation. For want of time, only three species were procured. These have since been ex-
amined and described by Mr. T. A. Conrad, and are new species of the genera Gratelupia, Mere-
trix, and Tellina.—(See Appendix, Article II.)

1F

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2 GEOLOGY ۱

At Barbacoas, the bank of the river is high and formed of stratified rocks. They form a bluff
about one hundred feet in elevation, and the bedding is distinct. The strata, apparently,
dip to the west at an angle of five degrees, and the trend is north and south. The strata are
argillaceous sandstone, and have a grayish green color.

Barbacoas to Cruces.—We took boats at the foot of this sandstone bluff and proceeded up the
river. The banks for nearly the entire distance were completely hid by the dense and beautiful
tropical foliage, so that the rocks were not visible. "The river terrace, or bank, appeared to vary
from ten to twenty feet in height. Some large boulders, or drift-rocks, were seen on a high
hill, where a cutting for the railroad was made. At Gorgona, the beach pebbles were princi-
pally trappean and basaltie, with some agates. A bank of conglomerate, with some large
boulders, was also seen. At Cruces, similar pebbles and boulders, or a coarse river-drift, was
found, some of the rounded masses being over a foot in diameter. "This place is near the base
of the high mountains.

Cruces to Panama, June 17.—Disembarking at Cruces, at 10 ۳۰ m., we remained over-night,
and in the morning mounted mules for Panama. Soon after leaving the town, the path led
through a narrow defile in a soft rock, which appeared to be similar to that seen at Barbacoas ;
but it was so much overgrown with green moss, and covered with mud, that its character could
not be determined. The path, however, was only wide enough for a mule to squeeze through ;
and it appeared to have been worn down by the feet of animals alone, as there were deep foot-
holes at regular distances. From this place to Panama very few observations on the rocks could
be made. They were obscured by vegetation beyond the path; and along it the only formation
visible was a deep, semi-fluid, red and black mud. The highest part of the route, however,
(the summit of the mountains of the Isthmus,) appeared to be formed of compact greenstone.
The paving-stones, also, which were. used to construct the old road in the time of the bucca-
neers, appear to be of basalt and greenstone. Indeed, at one point, near the western base of
the mountains, I observed a rock decomposing and breaking up into globular masses, like some
of the trappean and trachytic rocks. The city of Panama is built directly upon the shore of the
bay, and it is underlaid by nearly horizontal strata of a red sandstone, which much resembles
some portions of that in the Connecticut river valley. It is regularly stratified, as can be seen
at many points about the shore, at low tide; and the edges of the beds rise in succession over 8
wide surface, which is left uncovered by the water. The strata dip southward at an angle of
about five degrees, and they are composed of alternate layers of compact red sandstone and
light colored shales. The layers of the sandstone will average fifteen inches in thickness, and
the shales six to ten. The gentle dip of the strata permits broad surfaces of each layer to be
exposed to view ; and when the tide is out the formation can be conveniently examined. Several
specimens of the rock, containing remains of vegetation converted to lignite, were obtained.
The surface of the rock was also marked in many places by curious figures, in relief, resembling
roots of plants; and one, nearly two feet in diameter, had the form of specimens of Comatula.
No fossil shells could be found; but this sandstone is probably Tertiary. It is used in the con-
struction of walls in the city, and the old fort is built of it. The stones of the walls are much
worn away by the weather, and present the curious appearance of being hollowed out towards
the centre, the mortar of the joints not weathering so rapidly as the rock. ۱ |

Panama to San Francisco. —We left Panama on the 20th of June, in the steamer California,
Captain Whiting. The high hills and mountains, covered by dense tropical vegetation to their
summits, with the towers and ruins of the city at their base, presented a beautiful appearance 88

SAN DIEGO— POINT CONCEPTION— MONTEREY. 3

we left the anchorage. We passed several small but high islands in the bay, all of them with
steep, rocky shores, much obscured by vegetation. One of these islands was distinctly basaltic;
the rock presenting a columnar structure. We subsequently passed one which appeared to
consist of horizontal strata, capped with a thick layer of basalt, with columnar sides. The bold
relief'and bluff character of this western coast of the Isthmus contrasts strongly with the broad
and low region on the east, and we have, in fact, a miniature representation of the conditions
which obtain on the broadest part of the continent.

June 30.—Crossed the Gulf of California, and came in sight of the Cordilleras of the Penin-
sula of Lower California. The end of the Peninsula is very broad, and presents a bold front to
the south. Cape St. Lucas is formed of a succession of precipitous, rocky islands, appearing as
if they had been split apart, and from the main land. The mountains form an unbroken and
lofty chain throughout the whole length of the Peninsula.

San Diego, July 4.— We entered the harbor of San Diego on the south side of some compara-
tively low and rounded hills, free from trees. They are of stratified sand and gravel, and have
a modern appearance. The sea has worn away a large part of the outer point, and exposed the
loose, earthy character of the strata to view.

In passing up the coast through Santa Barbara channel a fine view of the islands was obtained.
They are rocky and barren, and apparently formed of stratified rocks. An interesting example
of the wearing power of the sea was presented at the eastern end of the island of Anacapa, a
perfect archway having been formed in a thin wall-like mass of rock.

Point Conception.—Point Conception is a prominent feature of the California coast, and holds
nearly the same relation to it that Cape Hatteras does to the Atlantic. It is formed of low hills,
with smooth, rounded outlines, projecting out into the sea several miles beyond the high ranges
which form the coast further east. The rocks, seen from a distance, appear light-colored and
stratified, but, at the water's edge, are dark, and appear to resist the furiously-breaking surf
very well. On nearing the point and passing it, the stratification was distinctly visible, with a
dip varying from five to fifteen degrees by the clinometer. The end of the point is a vertical
cliff, próbably less than 100 feet high. The smooth, rounded surface of the point supports a
growth of wild oats and weeds, and a herd of cattle were feeding on them.

On rounding this cape the temperature suddenly changed, and overcoats and gloves were
necessary for protection against a cold northwest wind.

Numerous broad and black sheets of bitumen were seen floating on the waves, and I was in-
formed that it floated down a stream from a short distance in-shore, where there are springs of
this material.

Point Pinos, Monterey, July 6.—We came in sight of Point ER the headland of the bay of
Monterey. It is formed of hard rocks, which project into the sea towards the northwest and
thus form a cove, sheltered from the southwest winds. We here, for the first time on the Cali-
fornia coast, found the surface covered by trees. The point is thickly wooded with pines. A
strange and striking contrast is presented by the whole coast up to this point with the green
and wooded shore of the Atlantic seaboard. At this season the California shore presents one
uniform shade of yellow or brown ; the grasses and wild oats being parched and withered by the
drought. The absence of trees and forests is peculiarly favorable to geological investigation,
permitting the outline and surface of every hill and mountain to be seen.

The rocks of the point are of white or light-grey granite, and are considerably تسوت‎ and

worn by atmospheric action and the wash of the sea. The city is built on a beautiful slope, and

2 3 Fore NR REM
۲ > << ۳

ERIE

` Where first observed, the conglomerate was composed of small, thoroughly-rounded pebbles;

4 GEOLOGY.

the ground looks rich and fertile. It is extensively cultivated, and fields were seen enclosed by
the well known Virginia or “ crook fence." A steam saw-mill was in operation making boards
from the pine logs. We remained at the anchorage only thirty minutes, long enough to
land the mail in a small boat.

Golden Gate, July 1.—Reached the headlands of the harbor of San Francisco early this *morn-
ing. The fog was so dense that the shore was invisible until we were close upon it. A long
and wide beach of white sand, which appeared to extend far inland, was passed before we
entered the channel leading to the bay. Numerous small rocky islets fringe the headlands and
make a dangerous surf. These islands were partly covered with sea-birds and the huge seals
called sea-lions, Phoca (Otaria) jubata. The rocks are probably sandstone, but the fog was so
dense about the top of the hills that the sky outline could not be observed. The shores are pre-
cipitous ; vertical cliffs of rocks being exposed and apparently the result of the undermining
action of the waves.

San Francisco is built on the inner or eastern shore of the peninsula and at the foot of several
hills of a brownish sandstone, partly covered with a thick soil, and in other places by sand.
Towards the Mission the sand-hills are an important feature of the place, being high and steep,
and covered in most places by a low growth of vegetation, principally shrubs and evergreen
and dwarf oaks. Many of the buildings are constructed of a hewn sandstone, of a light-drab
color, brought from Benicia, and of a beautiful light-colored granite brought from China. The
fragments of the sandstone from Telegraph hill, near North Point, are so much stained and
rusted by partial decomposition, and break up into such angular pieces, that they resemble
trappean rock which has been exposed to the weather.

SAN FRANCISCO TO THE SAN JOAQUIN RIVER.

Benicia, July 8.—In passing up the bay of San Francisco by steamer to Benicia, many out-
crops of stratified rocks are visible along the shores. Several small islands are also seen, one
of them very red, being composed of a ferruginous rock, probably sandstone; and another quite
white, it being covered with birds, which leave a layer of guano as white as lime. In the face
of a bluff, not far from Benicia, the edges of stratified rocks were seen, the dip being about
forty-seven degrees, and towards the southwest.

At Benicia the hills are high and beautifully rounded, the surface being smooth and devoid

of trees or shrubs. At this season, the wild oat, which covers the surface, is golden yellow ;
but here and there the long dry straw has been set on fire, and broad acres are burned off,
leaving a black, charred waste. ‘The general character of the surface of these hills is well shown
by View II.

Near the old barracks, there is an outcrop of coarse-grained sandstone and conglomerate.
This being harder than the strata of finer materials, has resisted degradation, and now forms
the apex of the hills.at many places. Its trend at one point appeared to be north 109 er
0
nearly uniform size, and not larger than peas or beans. Much larger pebbles were found at
other points, and were probably derived from an adjoining stratum. The great bed of con-
glomerate extends down io the water, and forms the headland, called Navy Point. At this
place there is a fine exposure of sandstone, strata, and shales, all conformable with the con-
glomerate. A good section was obtained. The strata are partly decomposed and rusted by

,

SANDSTONE OF BENICIA AND MARTINEZ—LIVERMORE’S VALLEY. 5

exposure, and some seams of gypsum were found. At a quarry a short distance from the point,
several blocks of soft sandstone were found to contain impressions of the stems of plants, some
of them in the form of lignite; but they are not sufficiently well preserved to be identified.

el legen] A à am zB

VIEW FROM BENICIA, LOOKING SOUTHWEST.

Martinez, July 10.—Left Benicia and crossed the straits of Carquines to Martinez, a small
town directly opposite. The hill-slopes on this side of the straits are tolerably well wooded
with an evergreen oak, thus contrasting strongly with the barren slopes of the Benicia side.
The trees are, however, principally confined to the valleys or depressions of the hill-sides, and
do not obscure the outlines of the hills, which are beautifully curvilinear. The town is built
on a nearly level plain, between two ranges of hills, and our first camp was upon this plain, on
the banks of a small brook. In the channel of this stream, an outcrop of sandstone, similar to
that at Benicia, was observed. Its trend was northwest and southeast, approximately.

The geological formations of Benicia and Martinez appear to be similar; Martinez is under-
laid by sandstone strata resembling those of Navy Point, and they may be regarded as the con-
tinuation of the same series, The trend or direction of the strata is the same on both sides of
the straits, and it indicates that the current has cut its channel by denudation alone, without
the aid of any great dislocation or disturbance of the strata. This similarity of composition and
direction of the strata on the opposite sides of the straits was also observed by Mr. P. T. Tyson,
and noticed in his report.!

This was our first camp in the open air, without tents. The remarkable brilliancy of the
stars throughout the night, and the absence of clouds or dew, could not but be observed,
especially by those unaccustomed to the climate. The heavens were as brilliant as in the clear
frosty nights of mid-winter in New England. The strange and peculiar yelping and howling
of the coyote, or California wolf, was heard for the first time. They came very near the camp
on all sides, and one animal seemed indefinitely multiplied, so various and involved were the
sounds.

Martinez to Livermore's Pass, 44 miles, July 11-16.—The mules were brought into use for
the first time, and the line of survey was commenced. We passed southward by a good road
winding among the smooth round hills. Fine farms were seen, well-fenced, and giving evi-
dence, in the abundance and richness of the crops, of the great depth and fertility of the soil.
The high peak of Mount Diablo was constantly visible beyond the hills on our left, and several
miles distant. It also formed a prominent feature in the landscape at Benicia, and is visible

1 Senate Ex. Doc. No. 47, 31st Cong., Ist sess., 1850, p. 16.

ERO Ree SE

6 GEOLOGY.

from San Francisco and the ocean, near the Golden Gate. This mountain is considered
volcanic by many in California, but no evidence of it has yet been seen.

Our second camp was in a grove of oaks on the bank of a small brook. Here a slight dew
fell during the night. Temperature of the air at sundown, 74°; at 9 p. m. 64?

The narrow valley in which we had been travelling gradually expanded, and at one place
reached nearly to the foot of Mount Diablo, forming a plain of considerable extent. This was
timbered near the hills and the mountain by a growth of evergreen oaks mingled with the
common ‘white oak’’ of California, (Quercus Hindsii.)

The general appearance of this valley or plain, with Mount Diablo beyond, is doma i in the
outline engraving. The foot hills are almost devoid of trees, and present singularly rounded
outlines. They are covered with the dead stalks of the wild-oat. -

An outerop of coarse-grained sandstone was seen near the border of the valley. The rock
contained large pebbles, most of them as large as hens’ eggs, and similar to those collected at
Benicia.

4

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—

MOUNT DIABLO AND DIABLO VALLEY.

About three miles beyond the camp, July 12th, another outcrop of a conglomerate was
found, trending about north 30? west. From this place high hills of stratified rocks were
visible at the foot of Mount Diablo. Two miles beyond, and near the banks of a small stream,
which we followed, a succession of sandstone strata were exposed in a bluff about six hundred
feet long. They were. highly inclined at an angle of 60°, dipping easterly, the trend being
nearly northwest and southeast. The strata are soft and not firmly consolidated, consisting of
argillaceous sandstones of different degrees of fineness; some of the beds*being coarse-grained
and filled with pebbles. The cast of one valve of a shell of the genus Cardium was found on
the surface of one of the layers, but it was in an imperfect state.

On approaching Livermore’s valley, or rancho, we left the main road and crossed over low
hills on the left. Outcrops of soft, earthy sandstones were frequently seen. At one point the
trend was north 30° west, and the dip northeast, at an angle of 45°. Beyond this a reverse
dip was found, and, to all appearance, an anticlinal axis. The strata were all light colored
and contained a large amount of clay, and clay mingled with sand. In one stratum a large
amount of pumice-stone was found disseminated in irregular masses, from one-quarter of an
inch to several inches in diameter. It was white and very soft and fibrous, the cells being
nearly all in one direction and elongated.

This formation of sandstone and conglomerate, which was so constantly seen, is, apparently,

MOUNT DIABLO—DIALLAGE— DEEP SOIL. T

continuous from Martinez southward to Livermore's pass, and beyond it. It probably forms
the basis of all the rounded hills along the valleys already followed by the Expedition. Where-
ever the strata appear, they are highly disturbed, the angle of dip being generally over 45°,
The general or average trend may be said to be from 30° to 45° west of north and east of
south. Several long ridges, presenting precipitous faces towards the southwest, were visible at
the base of Mount Diablo; they were seen from a distance of several miles, but they apparently

had the general trend of the hills we followed, from northwest to southeast, and were of strati-

fied rocks.

Mount Diablo is probably of igneous origin, but I could not observe any plutonic or volcanic
rocks along the road we traversed. "The rugged character and loftiness of the peak indicate
that it is composed of hard crystalline minerals. "This view is supported by the character of the
rock brought from near the summit, of which a specimen was obtained. It is a mass of crystals
of diallage or bronzite, confusedly mingled together, but possessing all the characters of the
mineral. It has a brown color and bronzy lustre, and cleaves very readily, with broad and
brilliant faces." It is common in pen, and it is most probable that this is the summit-
rock of the mountain.

The soft sandstones and earthy strata forming the hills of the part of the route under conside-

ration, are easily acted upon and worn away by the weather, and thus furnish the material for a

deep and loose soil. This is readily acted upon by the rains, and smooth rolling hills result.

DEEP SUN-CRACKS IN THE SOIL.

ER

The soil so produced contains a large amount of clay, and it shrinks so much by drying during
the summer, that the surface is traversed in every direction by cracks and fissures, that are
frequently two inches wide and sixteen or eighteen inches deep. Their character and form is
represented by the figure.

When this deep soil becomes saturated with water during the long heavy rains of winter,
these fissures close. At such times, an immense weight of water is absorbed by the dry soil ;
and when it rests on the sides of the steep hills, or upon an inclined surface of rocks, large
bodies of the saturated earth become loosened by the great weight, and slide down in an aval-
anche of mud to the valley below. It is sometimes the case, that an area of fifty or one hundred
feet in diameter, will break loose near the summit of a hill, and slide down over the surface
below it without breaking the soil; but the production of a complete excavated track from the
top to the bottom of the hill is more common. This tearing up of the soil prepares the way
for a current of surface water, which soon wears deep ravines in the yielding materials.

The soil appears to be well adapted to the growth of grains. The hills are covered during the
Spring and early summer with a luxuriant growth of the wild oat ; and wherever the valleys

! A large quantity of this rock was quarried a few years ago, under the supposition that it contained a large percentage
ofgold. If the same as the specimen I have, mere inspection by a competent geologist would have shown the fallacy of the
belief, and saved much expenditure of time and money.

£

EN

8 i GEOLOGY.

have been cultivated, heavy crops of wheat and barley verify this natural indication of the
fertility of the soil. Many large fields of grain presented a beautiful appearance, and were
being harvested by the aid of the patent reaping-machines.

The valleys through which we passed are mostly well watered, and are timbered with ma-
jestic oak trees, forming open groves free from any undergrowth.

The hills are usually free from timber of any kind, but an occasional ravine or side valley,
that is sheltered from the high winds or is watered by a spring, sustains a growth of oaks.

Wherever the trees of that region are exposed to the prevailing wind from the coast they
become bent over to one side, and show the effect of the wind in a most remarkable manner.
It is not uncommon to find trees growing almost horizontally along the ground. All the
degrees of inclination and peculiar forms shown in the annexed wood cut were observed.

EFFECT OF THE PREVAILING. WIND UPON TREES.

ico Ss A 3 X x m. MON ES E pr A Y
3 بقارم‎ SD EL SENS ze
FG DÜ B we BETZ (om 9 di has
f RIESEN _

Livermore’s Valley —We reached Livermore's on the 13th of July, and camped near the
entrance to the pass called by the same name. This valley is a widely extended plain, looking
at this season perfectly brown and barren, and yetitiscovered in places by droves of cattle appar-
ently well fed. It is several miles in length and breadth, extending between the range on the
west, which separates it from the valley of San José, and thelow range on the east, through
which Livermore's pass conducts to the broad valley of the San Joaquin. The mountains on the
west side appear high, and are perfectly brown and nearly treeless. A double line of summits is
presented to the view, as if there were two lines of elevation. A long line of trees, which appear
very small in the distance, is visible at the base of the range and on the margin of the plain.
Near the camp, there is a range of low hills, their elevation, as shown by the aneroid barometer,
being one hundred and fifty feet. There is no indication of strata; the surface is covered with
a thick coating of gravel and pebbles, apparently the deposits of a stream. The soil is loose

and poor, and does not appear to sustain the usual growth of the wild oat. It is reported that

“fossil oysters '' occur in this valley, but the locality was not found.

Livermore's Pass, July 16.—The entrance to the pass is among low rounded hills, and the
road follows the circuitous windings of the narrow valleys between them. These hills increase
in altitude towards the centre of the range, and have very steep slopes. This range of hills
extends from Mount Diablo southeasterly, and is the last or most eastern of the Coast Moun-
tains, and borders upon the plains of the San Joaquin river. |

The rocks along the route were stratified, being chiefly sandstone and conglomerate. No other
formations were observed. These sandstones rarely appear above the surface of the hills, being

covered with a soil that is apparently derived from their decomposition. Natural sections along .

the streams, favorable to the observation of the characters of the strata, were also rare. I was,
however, able to determine that the strata are inclined in various directions, and at angles
varying from 30° to 50°. The prevailing trend is northwest and southeast. The sandstone is
more firmly consolidated than that at Navy Point and at Martinez, and more nearly resembles
the rock quarried at Benicia for buildings.

ui EL te اي‎ WES PR TV m A ا‎ A

VCI A A T. Se

SANDSTONE AND CONGLOMERATE—ROUNDED HILLS. 9

A stratum of conglomerate forms a prominent feature of the rocks of Livermore's pass. It
appears at intervals in the form of huge outliers, apparently unconnected with any substratum
of rock. It is similar to that observed at Benicia, and is probably a continuation of the same
bed. A westerly dip of about 20° was observed at one of its outcrops. One of these outlying
masses is composed chiefly of pebbles, of the size of beans or peas, but firmly cemented together,
so that masses could be broken off by the hammer. At other places large stones and pebbles
were seen. At one of the principal outcrops of this character the upper part of the mass is a
thick bed of com pact sandstone, and under it a second bed enclosing pebbles of quartz and a
large round fragment of compact, fine-grained limestone, resembling that used by lithographers.
The sandstone above also contains round masses harder than the rest of the rock, but probably
concretionary. They do not weather as rapidly as the surrounding rock, and stand out from it
in relief. The foundation on which the layer of sandstone rests appears to wear away most
rapidly, and the rock is thus left projecting above, and far enough to afford the traveller pro-
tection from the weather, the height of the whole being about thirty feet. At the base of this
curious rock there are several cylindrical or conical cavities in the stone, about six inches in
diameter and eight to ten deep. They are perfectly smooth at the sides and bottom, and were
probably formed by the Indians for pounding their barley.

About a mile east of the summit an outcrop of sandstone in the side of one of the hills con-
. tained numerous globular or spherical masses of sandstone, two or three feet in diameter. They
are harder than the surrounding portions, and appeared to be the result of concretionary action
rather than to be due to the decomposition of angular blocks. A small outlier of this descrip-
tion is represented in the figure.

CONCRETION AND ARCH OF SANDSTONE.

The sandstone adjoining the spheroidal mass has worn away so as to leave an arch, so perfect
as to appear to be the work of art rather than the result of decay.

Outcrops of the strata became more common on the eastern side of the pass, and were of
greater extent, but not so high and imposing. One of the exposures consisted of a bed of sand-
stone, weathered into fanciful forms—columns, spires, and sharp points. It is underlaid by a
coarse conglomerate, and the pebbles which have been loosened from it cover the surrounding
surface.

The slopes of the hills on the eastern side of the range are more gradual and gentle than on
the west ; this is also the case with the dips of the strata, which vary from ten to TAY
degrees. au

While the surveying party were measuring the pass, and talking | barometrical Mi tions,
I travelled up one of the side ravines towards the north, and found ev " whe à the same charac-
teristic steep, but rounded, hills and barren surfaces.

This barrenness, however, was only apparent. The. season ot. ‚green. grass üa flowers had
passed, and fires had ol over the region, burning all the straw of the wild-oat and the stalks

10 GEOLOGY.

of weeds. But on close inspection of the bare surface, the grains of oats could be perceived
scattered about, or collected in little depressions, sheltered from the wind, The fire, it seems,
is not hot and lasting enough to accomplish more than the separation of the kernel from the
husk; perhaps parching its surface or hull. In this condition, it is fitted to fall into the cracks
of the soil, and thus be entombed in readiness to spring up after the first shower of winter, or
to afford sustenance to birds and bands of deer or elk. That it is sought and eaten by deer
while in this state I had full evidence, for I came upon a herd quietly feeding on a spot, which,
at a distance, seemed to be only the bare and blackened earth.

In the endeavor to cross back to the valley of the Pass, without retracing my steps, I mounted
to the summits of several of the hills. On nearly all sides there seemed to be no limit to their
succession ; one rounded outline was seen beyond another far into the distance, and all were of
the same brown or yellow hue, without a green tree or shrub. But looking eastward, towards
the San Joaquin, a far different view was presented. There lay outstretched the broad and green
Tulares—great swamps or lowlands overgrown with rushes and threaded by the sinuous channels
and sloughs of the river. The further margin was hid in the smoky distance, but this served
to increase rather than diminsh the conception of the great extent of this alluvial tract.

We encamped at a place called Elkhorn, consisting of one or two rudely constructed houses,
at the base of the low hills on the east side of the range. "The place probably derives its name
from the number of the antlers of the elk found here and among the surrounding hills. In this
vicinity several thick beds ot drift-gravel and rounded boulders, six, eight, and ten inches in
diameter, were observed. During the night we experienced a violent wind, which became a gale
towards morning, and we were glad to roll up our blankets and put on overcoats, the morning
was so cold.

Elkhorn to Grayson’s ferry, San Joaquin river, July 18, 30 miles. —We again turned south-
ward, and travelled between the base of the Diablo range and the left margin of the marshes
and tulares of the San Joaquin river. For the greater part of the distance the surface is nearly
level, and is almost a desert plain, consisting of gravel and pebbles brought down from the
hills. Some of the streams that descend from the Diablo range excavate wide and shallow
gullies in the plain, and leave them strewn with rounded boulders of various sizes. At this
season these gullies are without water. All this portion of the route is admirably adapted to
the construction of a railroad. The gravel will form durable embankments, and can be readily
excavated, but no cuttings will be required.

The mountains of the Diablo range were constantly visible on our right, and here and there
a distinct outerop of sandstone could be seen, the dip generally appearing to be southwest. A
part of the surface of the plain was covered with a growth of sunflower, standing from six to
ten feet high, and the blossoms very small.

The lower part of the San Joaquin river is bordered by numerous sloughs, and winds about
through low marshy ground, covered with rushes and willows. Such portions of these marshes
as are only temporarily overflowed, during the winter months, support a growth of coarse grass
and other plants. In some places along the margin of these sloughs the soil is fine and deep.
It appears rich in the inorganic constituents of plants, but is deficient in organic materials,

The number and intricacy of the winding sloughs and channels that traverse this wide area of
low marshy land is worthy of notice. They are well shown upon the general map. The whole
included area may be regarded as the alluvium of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and
as an extensive interior delta,

CHAPTER II.
GRAYSON'S FERRY, ON THE SAN JOAQUIN, TO FORT MILLER.

SAN JOAQUIN RIVER AT GRAYSON’S FERRY.— TUOLUMNE RIVER.—ALLUVIAL LAND UNDER CULTIVATION.—MITCHELL’S BRIDGE.—
A

MERCED RIVER TO BEAR CREEK.— TABLE HiILLs.—HomizONTAL STRATA.—FossIL TREE.—FOOTHILLS OF THE SIERRA.—
GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC ROCKS.— CLAY SLATE.—QUARTZ YEINS.—GOLD.—SANDSTONE STRATA RESTING ON THE EDGES
OF THE SLATES.—QUARTZ VEINS.—IRON oRE.—BunNs' CREEK.—FLAT-TOPPED HILLS.—BEAR CREEK.—SECTION OF THE
HORIZONTAL STRATA.—SUN-CRACKS IN THE STRATA. —ANDALUSITE.—VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF THE SAN JOAQUIN.—GoLD.—

FRESNO.—SNoW ON THE SIERRA.—FRESNO RIVER.—RicH soiL.—GRANITE.—SYENITE —Gorp. —TABLE-LANDS COVERED
WITH LAVA.

Grayson’s Ferry, July 18.—We crossed the San Joaquin at this ferry and landed on the
eastern bank a short distance below the mouth of the Tuolumne river, which enters the San
Joaquin from the eastward. Both banks of the river are low, and the western side is fringed
with a fine grove of trees. The opposite side is, however, without timber, and the soil appears
to be poor and sandy, supporting only a scanty growth of grass and weeds.

At the time we crossed the river the water was not at its lowest stage, the stream being still
swollen by the melting of the snow on the peaks of the Sierra Nevada. A large portion of the
bottom-land of the river was therefore submerged, and the stream was much broader than is
usual in the dry season. The current was swift and strong, and considerable greco of fine
sand and mica were suspended in the flood.

T'uolumne river.—Leaving the San Joaquin, we passed eastward along the south side of the
Tuolumne and a short distance from its left bank. Its course over the plains was distinctly
marked by the green timber along its bottom-land, and we encamped on its borders in a
splendid grove of oaks. The size and beauty of these trees, and the luxuriance of other vege-
tation, bore testimony to the depth and richness of the soil, and its adaptation for agriculture.
This vegetation and timber is confined to a bench or terrace of the river, lower than the upper
or barren plain, and yet slightly raised above the bed of the stream. The height of the sur-
face of the plain above the river-bottom, or its first terrace, is variable. It was not clearly
defined at our first camp, but, at the second, about 30 miles above the mouth of the river in the
San Joaquin, it was about thirty feet high, and as we travelled up the stream I observed that
it increased to a height, at one place, of nearly one hundred feet.

The low river-bottom, bounded by the bank or terrace, is of variable width, and portions of it
are cleared and cultivated. It is sometimes slightly overflowed during the season of floods.

The regularity and the steep slope of the terrace are remarkable, the descent being often so
abrupt as to be impassable. "These valleys, filled with green vegetation and trees, present an
agreeable and striking contrast with the broad and nearly desert plains that they traverse.

Mitchell's bridge, July 20.— We descended from the plain to the bottom-land of the river
and camped. We found a wide belt of fine land under cultivation; corn, vegetables and

12 GEOLOGY.

melons were abundant. At this point on the river there were evidences of three distinct
terraces, rising one above the other at heights of about fifty feet each. The upper one is much
cut and furrowed by rains, and now forms a succession of low rounded hills. These hills con-
sist of sedimentary, argillaceous sandstones, and the strata present various shades of color,
changing from white to pink and bluish. Beds of white clay were observed, and layers of
pebbles.

Dry creek to the Merced river.—Ten miles from the camp at Mitchell’s bridge, we entered
the valley of Dry creek ; and I here observed, along its banks, horizontal strata of argillaceous
sandstone in a soft, unconsolidated state. A house has been built of this soft clayey rock, and
the blocks have since become hard and stone-like in texture. Outcropping edges of nearly hori-
zontal beds of compact sandstone, similar to that of the Diablo range at Livermore's pass, were
. also observed, It is associated with a very coarse conglomerate, or a mass of large pebbles and
cobble-stones cemented together. These strata appear to be of tertiary age, but no fossils were
found.

Merced river, July 21.—Horizontal strata of argillaceous sandstone were observed in descending
from the plain into the valley of the Merced river. At the time of crossing, the stream was clear
and pure, and the temperature of the water was found to be 72° F.; air 86. The bed of the
stream was paved with water-worn boulders, almost all of basaltic and granitic rocks. The
basaltic fragments were predominant ; and from their quantity and general similarity, I was
led to conclude that the stream must traverse an extensive region of erupted rock high up in the
Sierra.

From the appearance of the bed of this river, and the wide margin of transported rocks, and
banks of pebbles high above the water at the time we crossed, it is evident that it sometimes
becomes a rapid and powerful torrent.

Merced river to Bear creek, July 22, 18.3 miles.—After leaving the Merced our route lay
among numerous isolated hills with flat summits ; a group of which is represented in outline
in the figure.

TABLE HILLS NEAR THE MERCED.

These hills were estimated to be about one hundred feet in height. They are tormed of hori-
zontal strata, and are the remnants of a former plain, the intermediate portions having been
removed by denudation. The “‘ cap rock"' on one of the hills was found to consist of a bed of
conglomerate, chiefly of quartz pebbles, underlaid by a bed of light-colored sandstone, and a

FOSSIL TREE.
second stratum of conglomerate. A cylindrical object, like a log of wood, was protruding two
feet beyond this layer of sandstone, and it piatt h to bea part of a fossil tree, with a cross sec-
tion like the figure.

TABLE-HILLS—METAMORPHIC ROCKS. 13

It was somewhat flattened as if by pressure. Its outer portions had evidently been bored into
by worms, as cavities similar to those formed by the Teredo were found filled in with sandstone.
The whole mass was highly charged with peroxide of iron, which, indeed, seemed to be the
chief constituent.

=

AAA SS, NS

FOOT-HILLS OF THE SIERRA NEVADA, BETWEEN THE MERCED AND MARIPOSA RIVERS.

We had now progressed so far towards the mountains that we were no longer upon the broad
plains of the great valley of the San Joaquin, but were travelling among the foot-hills of the
Sierra Nevada. Our route from this point, southward to Fort Miller, lay nearly on the border
of the lower granitic ranges, which presented occasional opportunities for examining them, in
connexion with the sedimentary foot-hills.

The first outerop of any of the rocks of the granitic and metamorphic series met on the sur-
vey was near Howard's ferry, on the Merced. At that place extended outcrops of dark colored
clay slate were observed, having a trend N. 55? W., and an inclination of 70? towards the
east. In some places they appeared chloritic ; and in others had the general character of roof-
ing slate. They were traversed, in the direction of the bedding, by quartz veins of great thick-
ness, the white quartz contrasting finely with the black slate. This place is only nine miles
west from Quartzburg, where several mining companies have erected crushers and stamps for
pulverizing the quartz and extracting the gold it bears. "The unconformability of the sedimen-
tary sandstone formation with these roofing and chlorite slates is strikingly shown in this
vicinity, where streams have cut so deeply as to expose both formations. The horizontal strata
rest upon the upturned edges of the slates, as is shown in the section.

14 GEOLOGY.

The outeropping layers of hard sandstone were visible in the hills on each side, the interme-
diate portion (between the hills) having been removed by denudation. At the highest part of
the outcrop of slates, a quartz vein, five feet thick, stands out above the general surface, and

forms a wall-like mass of fragments. "These, being milk-white, contrast strongly with the black
slate on each side. This quartz has preserved the surrounding slate from abrasion by currents
of water, and thus it stands at the summit of a little eminence.

Numerous continuous outcrops of quartz veins of great thickness could be seen on the slopes
of the higher ridges, several miles distant. Even where the surrounding rocks were buried in
8oil, the presence of the veins was shown by great loose blocks of the quartz lying in long lines
on the surface.

A quartz vein outcropping near “Burns” creek” was associated with a bed of compact
hydrated peroxide of iron, the whole being nearly twenty-five feet thick. The quartz was much
stained with iron, and the whole outcrop presented a dark chestnut-brown color, except where

REMNANT OF A STRATUM OF SANDSTONE.

covered with mosses and lichens, these being of the most brilliant and various colors. Large
blocks of the iron ore, and slate permeated with it, were lying around the outcrop ; many of the

QUARTZ VEINS—IRON ORE— BEAR CREEK, 15

masses being five or six feet in diameter. The ore breaks with a smooth conchoidal fracture,
it being singularly compact and hard. It occurs interleaved with the slate, portions of the
rock being found in the ore.

This bed of iron oxide appeared to be the result of the decomposition of pyrites; and if so,
the undecomposed pyrites would be reached by sinking to a sufficient depth in the vein. It is
probably auriferous, but no gold can be seen in the oxide of iron or quartz. It may, however,
‚exist in quantity sufficient to pay for working. This vein conforms in trend and dip with the
slates, which resemble those in the gold region of North Carolina and Virginia.

Burns’ creek.—A remnant of the former elevated plain of sandstone formed a picturesque
object near our route, and was sketched by Mr. Koppel.

It consists of a nearly circular disk of compact sandstone, ten or fifteen feet thick, capping
the summit of a round mound. Hills of this character, of greater extent and elevation, are
numerous for several miles south of this point. i

Bear creek.—At Bear creek, twelve miles north of the Mariposa river, a good natural section
or vertical exposure of the strata composing one of these flat-topped hills was presented. It
consisted of a series of beds of coarse and fine sandstone and strata of gravel and conglomerate,
which are represented in section, Chapter XIII. The whole elevation of the hill was estimated
to be about 150 feet. The following is the succession of the strata as observed from the top
downwards to the level of the creek. The thicknesses are given as they were estimated, and
are, therefore, merely approximate. The letters refer to the section.

SECTION OF THE STRATA AT BEAR ÜREEK.

k. Conglomerate.... 6 feet.
j. Sandstone 50 «

i. Conglomerate.....- 22 “
h. Sandstone, fine 1 foot,
g. Conglomerate of gravel, white and black quartz, and nodules of carbonate = lime-... 10 feet.
f. Sandstone, showing diagonal stratification and one or two layers of grave 12

e. Sandstone, with a layer of pebbles q...
d. Hard sandstone, thinly bedded; layer of pebbles towards the base 29 5
.c. Compact sandstone, with some small pebbles ---- i $5
b. Sandstone, with coarse grains and pebbles 1 foot.
à. Sandstone salis

The upper stratum is perfectly level on the top and free from soil; a dwarfed bush or tree,
here and there, is the only vegetation. The whole surface appears fissured, or as if cracked by
drying in the sun—precisely as the soil is cracked during the dry season. This must have
taken place at the time of the deposition of the rock or soon after. On closely inspecting the
slight accumulations of fine gravel in some of the hollows of the rocks, numerous very small
but beautiful crystals of andalusite were found. These did not exceed three-sixteenths of an
inch in diameter, and were seldom over one-eighth. They are translucent, but appear to be
worn and rounded by attrition.

From the summit a fine prospect was presented towards the south. The broad valley of the
San Joaquin was in full view, and it was dotted by numerous isolated flat-topped hills, standing
like islands in the plain. Bear creek was entirely dry at the point we crossed ; higher up the
stream, in the hills, large quantities of gold have been obtained, and the stream is noted for the
number and magnitude of the nuggets it has produced. The gold is not evenly distributed ; it
is found only at intervals, as might be expected from the size and weight of the masses. For
this reason the diggings are called spotted by the miners.

16 GEOLOGY.

From the hill at Bear creek to the Mariposa ıiver the road passes over the border of the
metamorphic rocks, and an occasional quartz vein is seen. The earth is also more or less
colored by oxide of iron, and fragments of quartz are numerous. These indicate the presence of
gold. Rounded hills, with flat caps of sandstones, continue in view. They are of various altitudes,
but below 200 feet.

We arrived at camp on the Little Mariposa about six in the afternoon of the 22d; the ther-
mometer standing at 96 degrees in the shade, and a breeze blowing. The heat of the sun
during the day on the broad, open plain was intense and oppressive. The bed of the river is
now dry, except in the deep and shaded places.

Mariposa river to the Fresno river, July 23, 22.5 miles.— We left camp at 2.30 a. m., and
about five miles south of it passed upon granitic or metamorphic rocks, both compact and
gneissose, containing beds of mica and hornblende slates.. These have a trend of N. 60° W.,
dip 75? N.E. The granite, at a short distance, resembles syenite, but it is composed of feldspar
and mica, with some quartz. It decomposes rapidly into a granular mass. The beds of a slaty
character were very thin, being not over one foot in width; narrow and irregular quartz veins
were also observed.

Chowchillas river.—The denuding action of rivers, and their power to cut a bed downwards
through the sedimentary rocks, is well shown on the Chowchillas on the left side of theford. At
that place, hills with broad, flat tops rise abruptly to an equal elevation on each side ofthe stream.

SECTION AT THE CROSSING OF THE CHOWCHILLAS.

They are peculiarly interesting, as they contain a bed of conglomerate fifteen feet thick; of
pebbles and round masses of white quartz, some of them twelve inches in diameter. They are
all rounded and smooth, showing that they have been much rolled and waterworn. This
stratum forms the protecting layer on the tops of the hills, the pebbles being firmly cemented
together, and offering resistance to decomposition. The softer sandstones underlying it are
more rapidly worn away, and allow large masses of the conglomerate to fall off and roll down
the slope.

Fragments of slate-rock, enclosing large numbers cf OE of andalusite, were o ninh
with the quartz ; and detached crystals of this interesting mineral, of unusual size, were abund-
ant.! The cementing material of the mass was sand and sesqui-oxide of iron, the latter being
in quantity sufficient to give a dark color to the matrix.

This peculiar conglomerate, together with the contiguous beds of sandstone, project from the
tops of the hills at the same height on both sides of the river; rendering it strikingly evident,
even to the most ordinary observer, that the strata were once continuous. Similar phenomena
are presented all along the slope of the Sierra — gg the streams have cut through
the horizontal sedimentary sandstones. _

At the point where we crossed the Chowchillas, below the hills just desiribed; its banks are
low and sandy, and a broad but shallow current was running over a bed of fine sand filled with
small glittering crystals of brown mica. There was very little river-drift of rounded stones or

! These crystals of andalusite are described in Chapter XX.

PRR. EXP 4 SURVEYS — CAI GEO 111

CROSSING OF CHOWCHILLAS RIVER.

ANDALUSITE—SNOW-PEAKS—-GRANITE. 17

gravel in the channel, and appearances indicated that at that point the river seldom flowed as a
tumultuous, rapid torrent. I found numerous large and good crystals of andalusite in the sand
of the banks, and some fragments of slate, also full of crystals. ‘These may have been washed
out of the adjoining conglomerate, or transported from the original sources in the Sierra
Nevada.

Chowchillas to the Fresno, 12 miles.—From the Chowchillas to the Fresno river, outcrops of
horizontal strata, forming low bluffs, were constantly visible. The surface is formed of sand and
gravel derived from the degradation of the surrounding sandstone hills. It is almost destitute of
vegetation, and free from moisture. "The reflection of the sun's rays from this arid surface is ex-
ceedingly oppressive ; especially when the thermometer indicates a temperature of 100° in the
shade. It stood at this point during a part of the day. At the same time, the snow-capped sum-
mits of the Sierra Nevada presented a splendid appearance, with their white mantles glistening
in the sun; and, although far distant, they appeared to lend a refreshing coolness to the air
of the plains.

F'resno river to Fort Miller, on the San Joaquin river.—The high peaks of the Sierra Nevada,
white with snow, were visible from our camp in the plain. At this place and season the river
ceases to flow in a continuous stream, and water is only found in the deep holes of the channel.

TABLE-HILLS NEAR FORT MILLER

Drs. Haller and Leech have a farm on the banks, where they have raised thousands of bushels
of barley ; the spontaneous or second crop averaging thirty bushels to the acre. >
- Leaving the camp and the party, I passed up the stream for several miles, over a succession ot
outcrops of grey, compact granite. The channel of the river is narrow and rocky, and filled
with huge blocks of granite detached from the ridges.
3F

PR SL |

18 GEOLOGY.

About eight miles from camp, in an easterly direction, I observed a peculiar porphyritic
syenite that apparently underlaid the granite, and gave indications of being more recent in age,
The exposure was so slight at this place that sufficient evidence on this point could not be
obtained.

Many.miners were at work at different points along the stream washing the gold out of the
sand with a common cradle. It was stated that they could not make much more than their
expenses ; nearly all the gold they obtained being traded at a neighboring store for provisions
and goods. The gold is in fine scales; higher up it is much more coarse, and in large grains
and masses. ۱

Leaving the stream, and travelling south towards the San Joaquin, I passed over a succession
of granite ridges for fifteen miles, following Indian trails. These. ridges were thinly covered
with oak and pine trees. The narrow valleys or gulches between them were entirely dry, but
are evidently traversed by brooks during the rainy season. Gneissoidal granite, passing into
& coarse mica slate, traversed by quartz veins, was passed just before reaching the San Joaquin
river, about two miles below Fort Miller.

During this day's ride numerous table-hills or mesas were seen on the right, but several
miles distant, and apparently out upon the plain. They were also observed by the main party
in their transit from the Fresno to the San Joaquin along the plain, and a sketch was made by
Mr. Koppel. é

The mesas appeared to extend far up towards the high mountains, which, towering In the
distance, were white with snow. The cap-rock of the hills was remarkably even and flat, and
subsequent exploration showed that it was composed of hard, basaltic lava overlying soft strata,
probably Tertiary

AS E

CHAPTER III.
FORT MILLER AND THE VICINITY —FORT MILLER TO OCOYA CREEK

۰
GRANITIC HILLS.—VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE SAN JOAQUIN.—DIURNAL RISE AND FALL OF THE WATER.— TEMPERATURE,
SaLMoN,—TERRAcES —(GOLD.

WATER-FALLS.—INDI

— VILLERTON.—ÜCLIMATE.—FORT MILLER TO KING'S RIVER.—FORT MILLER TO DRY €
RACE.—KinG?s RIVER —SIERRA NEVADA.—SHARP SLATE RIDGES TRANSVERS
RIVER TO THE F

WHITE CREEK. aA vili id ROCKS.—
AP.— WHITE CREEK TO POSE OR OCOYA CREEK— TERTIARY FORMATION AT THE BASE OF THE SIERRA NEVADA

On arriving at Fort Miller, a settlement and military post on the left bank of the San Joa-
? :

quin, we encamped for several days, and thus an opportunity was presented for the examination

of the geology of the immediate vicinity. The river flows in a deep winding valley, between
high granitic hills, partly wooded with oaks and pines

The slopes of these hills are very steep ;

VALLEY OF THE SAN JOAQUIN AT FORT MILLER

and a short distance above the tort they rise abruptly from the stream, leaving only a nar-
Í row ‘‘bench’’ or level area at their base

At the fort, this terrace or plain attains a considerable
width, and several miles below opens out upon the broad plains of the San Joaquin

20 GEOLOGY

The plain is shaded at intervals by groves of oak trees, some of them overhanging the river,
thus forming a desirable and beautiful camp ground. The river was not at its highest stage at
the time of our visit; but a l’rge body of water was flowing in the channel, and it was evident
that a considerable quantity of snow remained in the mountains at the sources of the river. A
diurnal rise and fall of the water was constantly observed, and is, without doubt, produced by
the melting of the snow during the day. This water was remarkably pure and clear, and very
cold ; its temperature seldom rising above 64° Fahrenheit, while that of the air varied from
99° to 104° in the shade. A difference of over forty degrees between the temperature of the air
and the water is not uncommon, and it becomes very evident when bathing in thestream during
the day. The Indians who live on the banks of the river do not, however, seem to regard this
difference of temperature as sufficient; for it is their custom to prepare themselves for their
bath by a preliminary baking in large underground huts, which have only one aperture, front-
ing the stream. A fire being built in the centre of the apartment, the Indians crowd around
it, and frequently add to the humidity of the atmosphere by pouring water on heated stones.
After a violent perspiration is thus produced, they rush into the river with much gratification.

During our stay at this camp we purchased fresh salmon of the Indians, who catch them in
the river. It is probable, however, that they are not abundant, as the mining operations along
the upper part of the stream and its tributaries sometimes load the water with impurities.

Although the river was not at its lowest stage, it flowed only in the deepest part of its bed,
and left bare and dry a broad ‘‘bench”’ of gravel and sand which is completely covered at high
water. Portions of the river-bed above the fort are obstructed by great numbers of large
blocks of granite, similar to that found below the fort. The floods of the river have swept over .
these masses, and rounded their surfaces until they are smooth and bright.

River terraces.—Remains of ancient terraces are visible on both sides of the river, and may be
recognized in the wood cut. "These terraces appear to be threein number, and are at elevations of
about thirty feet each. The third or upper terrace is obscure, and they are all much cut away
and disguised by side ravines.

Gold is found in the bed of the river in considerable quantity. It is mostly very fine scale
gold, and it is difficult to separate it from the black sand, which is abundant and heavy.
Groups of gold-washers and Chinamen were engaged all along the banks, either washing out
the gold in a common pan or using the * cradle." A pan-full of sand and gravel taken up
anywhere on the surface of the first bench of the river, would ** show color ”on being washed
out. This term color has passed änto general use among the miners, denoting the presence of
just sufficient gold to be well recognized. One of the miners was working his claim with a
cradle, and employed two Indians to dig and bring the auriferous earth and gravel. He was
obtaining about one ounce per day.

Some of the officers of the army at Fort Miller were constructing a canal along the bed of the
stream, into which they were intending to turn the water of the river when at its lowest stage,
and thus be énabled to obtain the sand of its bed, which was supposed to be extremely rich in
gold.

Granite.—Compact and granular granite is abundant in the vicinity of this place, and forms
high ridges on both sides of the river. A specimen taken from a road-cutting just below the
fort shows a fine grain and even distribution of the composing minerals. A portion of mica
is replaced by hornblende, and the aggregation may be called a syenitic granite. It is an
excellent building stone. :

GOLD—GRANITE—PLAIN OF BASALTIC LAVA. 21

„out one mile up the river above the fort, the granite passes into gneissoidal and slaty beds
containing much hornblende. These beds all have a trend of N. 40° to 45° W., and they dip
to the eastward at a high angle. The slaty masses alternate with the more compact and
harder granite. This difference of mineral constitution and aggregation of the rock causes it
to wear away unequally, and portions of the hills are rapidly decomposing under the influences
of the weather. They thus cover their steep slopes with a rich soil, which ustains a growth
of oaks and pines.

View No. 1, forming the frontispiece to the report, shows a valley between the granitic and
metamorphic hills on the north side of the river. The sharp edges of the gneiss or mica-slate
stand out from the surface in many places in large tabular masses.

Plain of basaltic lava.—Near the fort, one of the granite hills that rises to an elevation of
about one thousand feet above the river is capped by a horizontal layer of compact basaltic lava
about one hundred feet thick. It presents a bold escarpment fronting the valley, and from
below looks like a grand fortress with vertical walls and rounded bastions.

On ascending the summit of this rock, it is seen to extend for great distances, apparently in
a perfectly level plain miles in length and breadth. It borders the San Joaquin in its circuitous
course for many miles ; and continuations of the same broad field can be seen on the opposite
side of the stream. A partial bird’s-eye view of a part of this lava plain is presented in the
wood-cut. The sketch was taken from the edge of the plain above the military station, and
includes the gap through which the San Joaquin flows. The summit of the Sierra is shown in
the distance.

— -

N
N RV
MN SES

229
A

ELEVATED PLAIN OF BASALTIC LAVA.

It will be seen from the engraving that the exposed edges of the sheet of lava do not in all
cases present one continuous vertical wall, but rise in a terraced form, indicating the existence of
three or more parallel sheets or layers, one superimposed on the other. These layers, or tabular
masses of rock, exhibit, in a rude manner, the columnar structure, characteristic of similar
igneous rocks. The weathered surface of this rock presents a rusty brown color; but the inte-
rior is black, and shows a crystalline structure. Loose blocks,.when struck by the hammer,
give a clear ringing sound, and break with a conchoidal fracture. Other parts of the rock were
. more scoriaceous, and filled with small cavities that do not appear to have contained minerals,
but are probably air-cells. The rock is highly ferruginons, and affects the compass needle very
strongly ; in some places showing polarity.

In many parts of the surface I observed a distinct ridge-like character of the rock ; there were
distinct vertical planes, having a paralllism of direction, along which the rock cleaved with
greater facility than in other lines. At other portions of the surface, that had bcen exposed to
atmospheric changes for a long time, a distinct linear arrangement of the minerals was evident

22 GEOLOGY.

from the belted and striped character of the surface. Masses broken from this place verifi ! the
surface indications ; the imbedded crystals being found to be arranged in parallel lines, and with
the broad tabular surface of the crystals all in parallel and vertical planes. This linear arrange-
ment of minerals in volcanic rocks, and especially their occurrence in vertical planes in hori-
zontal beds or sheets of basalt, is exceedingly interesting, as it tends to throw light upon the
origin of the laminated structure developed in granitic rocks.

The path leading up to the surface of this table-land was along a valley at the southeast of
the fort, and was accessible to mules. I was able, with a little difficulty, to get my mule up
the cliff at a point where it was much broken down by weathering. I rode for several
miles over the level plain without finding any obstruction or much soil to obscure ihe black
floor of lava. The plain appeared unbroken far into the distance; but I soon came upon a
ravine with abrupt sides, visible only when the brink was nearly reached, and was forced to
return. The plain is, doubtless, intersected in this manner by ravines invisible from a dis-
tance, unless they extend in the direction of the line of vision. Looking off from the edge of
this plain towards the San Joaquin, a long line of flat-topped hills was visible. "These hills are,
doubtless, portions of the table-mountain seen on approaching the river. The summit appears
to have been continuous, and is intersected by gaps so as to form a series of flat-topped mounds,
separated by little valleys. The original plain probably inclined gently towards the west, as
an uniforn inclination is now distinctly visible in all the summits. The San Joaquin was seen
winding around the south western point of this interesting range.

The immediate contact of the basalt with the subjacent rocks was not visible on the slope
facing the San Joaquin. I ascended on that side and traced the granite nearly to the lower
line of the basalt. The upper portions of the granite showed horizontal beds, differing in their
mineralogical character; a portion was very coarse-grained and highly feldspathic, other
portions were finely laminated, and with these was a bed consisting of large crystalline masses
of albite imbedded in quartz. These rocks were, however, exposed for a short distance only,
and may be portions of large granitic veins.

The general character of the granite in the vicinity and lower down the slope is compact and
even in texture. On descending from the plain of basalt at the southern margin, I found that
there was a vertical exposure of the edges of horizontal sedimentary beds underlying the
basalt. These were composed of gravel, fine white sand, white clays, volcanic sand, and great
masses of light and friable pumice stone. These masses were of various sizes, and formed layers
over one foot thick. Volcanic material seemed to abound throughout the beds, and formed the
principal part of their mass.

The whole thickness of the exposure did not exceed 100 feet, and a great part of it was 80
much obscured by soil that its character could not be satisfactorily determined. The relative
positions of the basalt, sediments, and underlying granite, will be better understood by refer-
ence to the accompanying outline section, representing the bed of the San Joaquin and the hills
on each side.

SECTION OF THE VALLEY OF THE SAN JOAGUIN AT FORT MILLER.

These underlying sediments are probally members of the same series that form the isolated

E.
E

STRATA UNDERLYING BASALT—EROSION BY THE SAN JOAQUIN. 23

hills along the Merced and other rivers. They will probably be found to be of recent tertiary
age. It is evident, from the fact of superposition, that the basalt is more recent in its origin.

In these extended igneous layers we have a remarkable and highly interesting instance of an
immense overflow of molten rock, spreading itself out in a broad plain not less than fifteen or
twenty miles in length and breath, and probably of much greater extent. Its compact and
crystalline character, and the almost entire absence of that amygdaloidal, porous, and scoria-
ceous character peculiar to surface lava streams, indicate that it was subjected to pressure at the
time of its overflow, and point to its submarine origin.

It may be difficult for those who are not familiar with the many examples of submarine over-
flows of lava, to conceive how this bed of rock could have spread itself out so uniformly over
such a wide area, where we now find deep valleys and steep mountains, and scarcely a trace of
any horizontal sedimentary rocks. This difficulty vanishes when due consideration is given to
the ever-active and powerful denuding force of rivers and floods, and it is seen that the deep
valleys and ravines that intersect this lava-plain have been excavated by their action.

The stratified sedimentary formations found lying horizontally under this lava indicate that
the whole suríace of the country was once overlaid by a continuous deposit of sediments in hori-
zontal strata, which filled up all the valleys and inequalities in the original granitic surface,
and thus produced a nearly level plain or slope of gentle inclination over what was previously
a surface of rugged granite ridges. The inequalities of surface having been thus filled up by
deposition, the overflow of fluid rock took place and spread out over the plain in an even layer.
The stratified deposits are probably of marine origin, and may have been deposited at the bot-
tom of a deep and quiet sea.

It was probably the case that the granite ridges were so high in many places that their tops
were scarcely covered, and that some stood out above the general surface of the sedimentary
layers. "Thus, in some places, we find the lava in contact with granite; and again, it is under-
laid by the sediments. It will probably be found that there are many places in this unexplored
expanse of rock where the summits of the old granite ridges stand out above its surface like
islands. Wherever this basaltic covering has been removed by denudation or otherwise, all
the soft sediments, composed of exceedingly light materials, have been rapidly torn away by
floods, and they are not now to be found except in some protected angle, and under the shelter
of the projecting edge of the lava.

The existence of these soft strata, filling up all the inequalities of the ancient granite surface,
and laying the foundation for this igneous overflow, has proved the main cause of its speedy
downfall and decay. ，

The foundations of the rocky plain have been ot sand, and wherever they have bes exposed
they have crumbled and been washed away, leaving great overhanging cliffs of lava to break
off in successive masses by their own weight. Wherever the lava rests upon granite, the degra-
dation of the plain appears to have nearly ceased, or to progress but slowly.

It is not impossible that this lava-plain was once overlaid by sediments similar to those now
found under it. No remnants of such formations were found.

It should be remembered, that at the time when the present Coast Mountains were partly
submerged, and held the same relation to the slope of the Sierra Nevada that is now sustained
by the Farallones and other islands to the present coast, the plain of basalt was still partly

beneath the depths of the primeval ocean; and that, during the period of elevation, the surf

must have rolled for ages at the base of its dark cliffs, excavating deep caverns in the under-

24 GEOLOGY.

lying soft sediments; producing, by this undermining process, the speedy degradation of the
plain.

We must consider, also, that when the country was at a lower level, the rivers from the Sierra
Nevada flowed over the surface of the lava ; and that long before the newly risen continent was
trod by the Mammoth and Mastodon, anterior to the advent of man, the San Joaquin com-
menced wearing its crooked channel, and poured its waters into the sea over the precipitous
edges of the hard basalt. As the country gradually rose up, the clift was undermined ; and
during the lapse of ages the river must have cut its way backwards and excavated the present
deep channel. It is thus probable that a series of magnificent waterfalls existed during the
progress of this backward movement.

It has already been stated that a large quantity of the river-drift in the bed of the Merced
river was composed of basalt. The headwaters of this stream are supposed to be near those of the
San Joaquin ; and I am informed that basaltic rocks form hills of great height in that vicinity.
It is probable that these are a portion of the field of basalt just described, and they may be near
or at the original source of the overflow. If this is so, it was probably above the level of the
former sea ; but the currents of lava that flowed from it may have reached the ocean and spread
out in a plain on its bed.

It is difficult, and, indeed, impossible, to determine the former boundaries of. this once
igneous plain ; it may have reached far out to the westward of its present limits, and extended
over a part of what is now the Tulare valley.

The Indians collect about the fort in great numbers during the winter—as many as five or
six hundred being there at one time. They live in the usual manner—in brush huts—a short
distance below the fort. They make beautiful baskets or trays, of a strong round grass, which
they weave so tightly and evenly that the baskets will hold water; and they are sometimes
used to hold water while it is made to boil by throwing in heated stones. One mile below the
fortis the ferry across the river. Here, there are several houses and shops; the place being
called Millerton. The trade is chiefly with emigrants, miners, and the Indians. During our
stay at this camp, Captain Love, at the head of a party of rangers, arrived, bringing with him
the head of the notorious robber-chief, Joaquin Muerto. They had surprised - Joaquin, with
his party, in a pass of the Coast Range, and, after a short fight, shot him through the head.

The temperature of this valley or, at least, of our camp-ground, is worthy of note. Each
day was like the preceding, and the unclouded sun seemed to have a remarkable heating power.
The high hills on each side prevented a free circulation of air and reflected back the heat. The
thermometer, during the middle part of the day, seldom indicated a temperature lower than 96
degrees F., and generally stood from 100? to 104° in the shade ; in some localities 115°.

FORT MILLER TO OCOYA CREEK.

Fort Miller to King's river, July 31, 25. 13 miles, .— We left the San Joaquin at 4 a. m. of the
31st, and turned southward over low and rounded hills at the base of the mountains, and, after
travelling about five miles, came to the plain of the San Joaquin or the Tulare valley. It is
now more properly the Tulare valley, as the San Joaquin river, after leaving t the foot-hills and
coursing a short distance down the slope of the valley, turns north ıward and does not receive the
streams which descend from the mountains further south. The. valley ， or plain, however,
sr — me there is no visible line ot eme bet: e ~ two systems of

METAMORPHIC ROCKS—BOTTOM-LAND OF THE FOUR CREEKS. 25

From the San Joaquin to Dry creek, about thirteen miles, the rounded hills were seen; and
at one place a distant hill presented the appearance of a succession of terraces, which, however,
may be the edges of a horizontal strata. In one of the hills limited outcrops of horizontal argil-
laceous beds and a conglomerate were found. The strata are probably similar to those under-
lying the lava at Fort Miller. The soil over the greater part of this distance was very good.

On arriving at Dry creek we met Senator Gwin, on his return from a visit, with several
friends, to the Tejon Pass. The bed of Dry creek is shallow and sandy, and was entirely dry
at the time we crossed ; but it was evident that a strong current of water flows there at certain
seasons. A short distance south of this creek there is a fine view of a long, low, nearly hori-
zontal terrace, appearing to flank a projecting spur of the mountains. "This long terrace ap.
peared to be composed of regular and nearly horizontal strata; but a near examination could
not be made. It is, doubtless, a portion of a former sub-marine slope.

King's River.—This stream, sometimes known as the Lake fork, flows down from the Sierra
just beyond the terrace above described. Its course over the plain was marked in the distance by
a long line of trees, just visible above the surface, the bed of the stream being sunk below it.
We reached the margin of the bottom-land about sunset, and encamped upon a low gravelly
spot which had recently been iaundated by the stream. We here found a coarse swamp-grass,
sun-flowers, and willows. As thesun went down the Coast Mountains were visible in the west,
about sixty miles distant ; and on the other side, the white, snow-capped summits of the Sierra.
Many herds of antelope were seen during the day, and before dark one was brought in by our
hunters.

The bottom-land and timber of King's river is said to be five milesin breadth at several parts
of the stream after it leaves the mountains. A great body of water flows here, and all the
sloughs are well timbered. It flows into the Tulare lake.

King’s River to the Four Creeks, August 1, 40.4 miles. —We left the camp on the borders of
King's river and travelled along its right bank to Poole's ferry, twelve miles below. The river
winds about and appears to skirt the mountains, the banks becoming higher as we descend.
The elevation was, however, variable. The descent from the general level of the plain to a
running slough, near the first camp, was about eighteen feet ; but at the ferry it was forty, and
divided into two benches or terraces. Their general character is represented in the annexed

section.
ر‎ me
N om Er. $

A short distance below the ferry this order is reversed, the single bank being on the opposite
side. These banks consist of regular layers of argillaceous sandstone and clay, which is hard
and rock-like when perfectly dry. The lowest stratum was principally of clay ; and the whole
deposit had a modern and alluvial appearance. |

From the banks of the river, at this ferry, there is nothing to obstruct the vision across the
whole breadth of the Tulare valley ; and the Coast Mountains may be dimly seen rising above
the limits of the far-stretching plains. The Sierra Nevada, also, present a magnificent spectacle
from this place. The chain appears to reach a great altitude, and to rise abruptly from the sur-
rounding subordinate ridges. It is probable that the condition of the atmosphere was peculiarly
favorable for viewing distant objects, as the outlines of the distant chain were sharply defined,
and the prominent pun showed out boldly against the clear blue sky. Snow was resting on

26 GEOLOGY,

the summits in broad, white fields that glistened under the rays of an unclouded sun, and by
its rapid melting kept the rivers well supplied with water.

The crest of the chain, nearly east from the ferry, has a very peculiar appearance, and seems
to be divided into a succession of tranverse ridges, standing sharply out at right angles to the
general direction of the chain, giving it an outline like the teeth of a saw.

PN SS os
BETT nS NS AS
AS n
> NNI سے‎ -

CREST OF THE SIERRA NEVADA, FROM KING's RIVER.

Three principal ridges of this character were easily seen by the naked eye, but with a glass
many more were observed. They were evidently the outcropping edges of rocks dipping to-
wards the south at angles of seventy to eighty degrees. Their outlines were deeply serrated ;
and this appeared to be the result of the breaking or gapping out-of their sharp edges, either
by abrasion, or, more probably, by the undermining action of the weather, permitting por-

tions of the rocks to fall by their own weight. The nearly level spaces between these singular -

ridges were covered with snow, but no snow could be observed on the abrupt and precipitous
slopes of the rocks. It is possible that the valleys are occupied by glaciers.

The distinctness with which these serrated rocks are visible at the distance of probably over
fifty miles, and at an elevation of over seven or eight thousand feet, shows that they have @
great elevation above the general surface of the ridge. A similar structure is developed along
the crest of the chain for several miles towards the south. I was surprised to find such an ex-
tended series of outcrops with their trend apparently at right angles to the general direction of
the chain on which they occur. From the character of their edges and the tabular appearance
of their surfaces, I concluded that they were slate rocks— probably metamorphic or azoic.

From King's river to the Four Creeks the surface of the ground shows but few undulations,
and may be considered as nearly level. The soil contains a large portion of clay, and must
necessarily become soft and miry during the rainy season. About three miles northward of
Elbow creek, (one of the ** Four Creeks,") a large area of surface is composed almost wholly of
clay, without any admixture of sand or gravel, and has evidently been nearly fluid in the wet
season. "This was shown by the deep tracks of animals in the then hard, sun-baked surface,
and by great numbers of skeletons of cattle that have sunk in the deep, thick mud, and been
left to die of starvation. Their whitened bones stand upright in the clay like posts around a
grave. The drying up of this clayey ground has produced deep shrinkage cracks and fissures,
similar to those observed in the rich soils around the bay of San Francisco.

Four Creeks.—From the level of the arid and treeless plain, bounded on the west in the dim
distance by equally barren mountains, we made a sudden descent of about ten feet to the bot-

METAMORPHIC ROCKS—BOTTOM-LAND OF THE FOUR CREEKS, 27

tom-land of the Four Creeks. Here the aspect of the landscape is suddenly chan ged. Instead
of the brown, parched surface of gravel to which the eye is accustomed on the surrounding
plains, we find the ground hidden from view by a luxuriant growth of grass, and the air
fragrant with the perfume of flowers. The sound of flowing brooks, and the notes of the wild
birds, greet the ear in strange contrast with the rattling produced by the hot wind as it sweeps
over the dried weeds and gravel of the plain. The whole scene is overshadowed by groves of
majestic oaks, and the eye can wander down long avenues of trees until lost in the shadows of
their foliage.

This scene of luxuriant beauty is the result of natural irrigation, the ground being abundantly
watered by the Pi-pi-yuna river, which supplies the water that forms the Four Creeks. This
stream, on emerging from the foot-hills of the Sierra, divides into several channels, to which
the name Four Creeks is given. These divisions of the stream diverge, and ramify over the
plain, and at length empty into the Tulare lake by a number of mouths. In fact, a broad delta
is here formed between the Tulare lake and the mountains, and the profuse vegetation may not
only be referred to the presence of water, but to the fertility of the soil, which is alluvial, and
is frequently enriched by overflows of the creeks. A fresh portion of granite debris, in fine par-
ticles, is brought down by these streams from the adjoining granite ridges, and at each over-
flow is spread out over the surface. The beds of the streams are generally sandy ; and the soil
near them contains sufficient sand, mingled with the clay, to give it the loose, open character
desirable for cultivation.

The underlying earth is doubtless a continuation of the same formation of deep clay that was
observed at the crossing of King’s river, and that forms the surface of much of the country
between that stream and the Four Creeks.

The value and importance of this fertile, alluvial tract, as an agricultural region, cannot be
lightly estimated.

. The climate is undoubtedly favorable to the growth of most of the varieties of plants that are
cultivated in the southern States, and the soil may be regarded as remarkably fertile. Settle-
ments have already been made, and bridges have been constructed over some of the streams.
It is probable that considerable annoyance will be experienced among settlers from chills and
fever; but it might, perhaps, be avoided, to a great degree, by residing on the margin of the
adjoining plains, or among the foot-hills of the mountains. A partial escape would also be
thus effected from great numbers of mosquitoes that infest the low groufttls among the trees.

This beautiful plain, covered with luxuriant vegetation, is a fine example ‘of the effect of
irrigation, for without these streams it would be a desert. Many of the most desolate and
desert-like plains that skirt the foot-hills of the Sierra can boast a soil of equal excellence, and,
if supplied with water and brought under cultivation, would reward the toil of the agriculturist
with rich returns.

Lost Mountains.—Near the point where we passed from the plain to the bottom-land of the
streams, one of the foot-hills of the Sierra was entirely detached from the main ridges, and
stood isolated in the plain. It well deserves the title of ** Lost Mountain,’’ which is applied
by the hunters and travellers of that region and the Great Basin to all similar isolated hills.

I examined the rocks of this ridge, and found that it was composed of alternating beds or
seams of talcose and steatitic slates, with opaque white quartz. The quartz has an earthy
luster, is full of cavities, and is in stalactitic forms, with surfaces resembling chalcedony. These
siliceous seams were very numerous, and varied in thickness from one-eighth of an inch to ten

A a

Ieee EEE TER

a p ME CRM uer e E

x

a |
et SE
Eg om: DE

28 GEOLOGY.

inches. In an adjoining mountain this peculiar mineral aggregation of quartz and slates is
intercalated with great beds of quartz rock ; in one place 100 feet in width. This has a con-
spicuous cleavage resembling stratification, parallel with the bedding of the slates that adjoin
it. The quartz rock is granular, of a gray color, and very tough and compact. The outcrops
of these rocks are considerably obscured by soil, but were sufficient to lead me to conclude that
there were several parallel beds. They are inclined towards the north, at an angle of 45
` degrees, and their trend is nearly east and west. They are undoubtedly metamorphic.

From the summit of this hill there is a magnificent view of the plains of the San Joaquin and
Tulares, and of the oak groves of the Four Creeks, spreading out into a wide forest, and uniting
on the verge of the horizon with the dark-green vegetation of the Tulares. On the other side the
towering summits of the Sierra, white with snow, rise above the purple haze that rests lan-
guidly on their slopes, and project their bold outlines on the clear depths of the blue air.
These elevated peaks were estimated to be 9,000 or 10,000 feet in height, and their influence
upon the climate of the valley is very evident. At night, the cold air from these elevations
pours down along the ravines and water-courses, seeming to flow in these channels almost
like the water. It was a general observation in the camp, during our journeying along the
base of the mountains, that the direction of the wind at night was uniformly down the caiion,
while during the day it was generally the reverse.

Four Creeks to Moore's Creek, 26 miles.—On rising from the bottom-land of the Four Creeks,
on the south side, the surface and soil of the plain is a sandy and gravelly loam, which would
be exceedingly fertile, if well watered.

Near Tule river the lower ridges of the mountains on the left are composed of talcose and
chloritic slates, with masses or beds of magnesian minerals, resembling ordinary serpentine.
Some of the outcrops have a striking resemblance to trappean rocks. But the series was
remarkable for the occurrence of some extraordinary beds of perfectly white and amorphous
carbonate of magnesia, resembling opaque or massive gypsum, or plaster casts, but of finer
grain and more dense. The outcrops vary from one to six feet in thickness, and stand out
above the general surface of the ridge. Their snowy-white color and elevated position made
them conspicuous objects at the distance of several miles. The peculiarly compact and homo-
geneous character of this mineral, its purity and quantity, and the absence of all traces of
crystallization or cleavage, and its complete opacity, are worthy of particular notice. It is, in
all probability, the most remarkable known deposit of the mineral. The action of the weather
on these masses of rock has produced some singular effects. The surfaces are furrowed and
grooved in every direction with miniature, crooked channels, that seem to have served to carry
off the surface water. These chapnels give rise to small ridges, that unite in elevated points,
and may be imagined to represent, in miniature, the mountains and ravines of the surface of a
country. These magnesian beds, with the associate serpentine rocks, have the general strike
or trend of northwest and southeast.

‘Moore’s Creek to White Creek, 26 miles.—Slates and serpentine, similar to those just described,
were again seen after crossing Moore’s creek. As these rock formations, and others that were
observed in the vicinity, had characters indicative of the presence of gold, I prospected the
surface gravel from the bed of the stream, but without success. I am, however, of the opinion
that gold exists in that vicinity, and in the foot-hills near the Four Creeks. Cottonwood trees

* A full description of the mineral will be found in chapter XX.

BEDS OF MAGNESITE—GRANITE—TRAP-DIKES. 29

abound on the banks of Moore’s creek, and very little oak timber was seen. The river bed is
shallow and sandy, and it was evident that the stream is sometimes greatly increased in volume,

On the banks of a dry creek, six and a half miles south of Moore's creek, there is an outcrop
of a brownish magnesian rock, trending northwest and southeast, filled with seams and veins l
of translucent quartz, resembling chalcedony. It is probably a formation similar to that
occurring northward of Four Creeks, already mentioned.

A short distance beyond this exposure of rock, the hills on the left appear to be formed of
trappean rocks, and at the crossing of a small creek I found an outcrop of compact trap rock,

OUTLIERS OF GRANITE, NEAR WHITE CREEK.

of a dark-green color and fine grain. The weathered surfaces were clear and smooth. The
apparent trend of this intrusive rock was north 30? west, magnetic.

After passing Tule creek, we left the plain, and travelled among the low foot-hills of the
Sierra. Two or three miles north of White creek, we came upon the edge of the granite forma-
tion, and the rock makes its appearance on the surface in a succession of long and narrow out-
crops, from twenty-five to fifty feet in width, standing like walls on the gently undulating
ground. ‘They were of sienitie granite, but were undergoing rapid decomposition, weathering
into rounded masses. The trend of the principal outcrop was N. 60? E., (very distinct,) dip
N. 50°-75°.

Not half a mile beyond this place, the direction of trend changes suddenly to N. 20? W.,
(nearly at right angles with the former,) and the dip is eastward. The rock rises above the
surface in similar lines, but forms a higher ridge on the left; the summit of which I found to
consist of an intruded igneous rock, of compact structure and light color, breaking or cleaving
up with great facility into large or small rhomboidal blocks, showing the mass to be in a con-

.

30 GEOLOGY.

dition of rude crystallization. A second dike, of similar lithological character, with a trend ۰
30° W., was found on the summit of an adjoining ridge. Neither of these intrusive dikes of
trappean rock were over fifty feet in width. They apparently conformed in dip to that of the
granite, which was not far from vertical.

The relations of these rocks, and the peculiar form of the outcropping surface, will be under-
stood by the inspection of the annexed sectional representation:

SECTION NEAR WHITE CREEK.

EE x e " bU EU ei UN A 1 T I unten‏ اف
F MORA X : M AULAE c SH a A MNSN ARSANIN AAAS Y TONS AOA EN‏
EM 2 ` ER EAS en xx SE AVENTE VA TUN SN A RANA AN OV NN WW)‏ ت
E a b b e c c W‏

a, granite ; b b, trapdikes; c c c, granitic, laminated, and probably metamorphic.

From the appearance of the ridges for several miles to the eastward, and the character of the
outlying rocks, I concluded them to be a continuation of this granite series.

Before reaching ‘‘ White creek," an outcrop of dark-colored, highly crystalline rock, appa-
rently intrusive, appears on the summit of an elevated hill but a short distance from the granite
outcrops that have just been described. This rock, when seen from a distance, glittered in the
sunlight as if it was filled with plates of mioa. "These reflections proceeded from flat cleavage
surfaces of broad crystals of hornblende, one-half to three-quarters of an inch in length, forming
the main constituent of the rock. The outcrop of this aggregation was so limited in extent that
no observations upon the trend, or the associated rocks, could be satisfactorily made.

On the top of the same hill, and west of the hornblendic rock, there are obscure outcrops of
ferruginous quartz, intersected and crossed by a net-work of white quartz. Many loose frag-
ments of red and jaspery quartz were picked up on the side of this hill. The whole locality was
worthy of a more extended examination than it was in nty power to make.

White Creek to Ocoya, or Pose Creek, 244 miles.—On the banks of White creek, at the place of

: | our camp, there are two or three nearly precipitous bluffs, one hundred to one hundred and fifty
feet in height, with a steep slope of debris at their base. The color of these rocks, und the traces
of stratification and absence of crystalline character, disposed me to regard them as altered sand-
stone; buta further examination before leaving camp led me to consider them as of igneous
origin. They had the appearance of stratified rocks set on edge. Stratified formations of sedi-
mentary origin do, however, occur on the south side of the creek, and are first seen in the sides
of low rounded hills bordering our trail. "These beds were of argillaceous sandstone, and had a

slight inclination towards the west. Our trail, for several miles, was among hills of this pecu-
liar, rounded, smooth outline, characteristic of the sandstone formation. The subjacent granite

GRANITE—TERTIARY STRATA. 31

was evidently not far below us, as we several times crossed limited exposures of its surface rising
up in the valley among the sedimentary hills.

All these sediments rest immediately upon the granite, and are generally horizontal, or dip-
ping gently westward. f

The preceding sketch was taken from the top of a hill of granite at the head of a small valley
bounded by the rounded hills. At its lower end the nearly horizontal strata were exposed in a
series of beds of sandstone.

The streams that traverse this region have excavated deep channels in these nearly horizontal
formations, producing good natural sections of the stratification.

One of these vertical exposures of the sedimentary beds consists of white argillaceous sand-
stone in a soft, earthy state, filled with small grains of white quartz, apparently derived from
the decomposition of feldspathic granite. The mass emits an argillaceous odor when breathed
upon ; and some portions of the beds resemble the crude Chinese kaolin. These beds are near
the underlying granite. Other exposures in the hill-sides displayed strata of similar materials,
and an occasional admixture with layers of rounded pebbles. One of the outcrops presented a
section in which the underlying granite was visible, as is shown in the little figure at the end
of the chapter, which will also serve to give a general idea of the character of the beds of the
small ravines along the borders of this tertiary, sedimentary formation, where the granite is
near the surface. ۱

Sedimentary hills, of the character previously described, bounded our trail for several miles
before we reached camp on Pose, or Ocoya creek. Many of these hills are so steep that it was
difficult to get the wagons of the train over them ; but the absence of any vegetation, or of out-
cropping rocks, permitted the ascent to be made, in many cases, by winding around the slopes
up the side ravines. The great number of these narrow valleys or ravines that we were obliged
to cross rendered the journey exceedingly irksome and fatiguing. Occasionally in the hill-sides
the edges of some of the harder strata were visible, but the degradation and wearing away of
the formation has generally left a uniform coating of debris or soil, which gives a rounded con-
tour to the hills, and covers the strata from view. |

ANNE te RE a ad

tL TM Rm‏ پا

4
ERA ab

CHAPTER ۷ ,

000۲۸ CREEK DEPOT CAMP—OCOYA CREEK TO THE TEJON—TEJON
DEPOT CAMP.

060۲۸ cREEK.—RovNDED HILLS, 一 了 ossILS. 一 CHARCOAL AND PUMICE-STONE IN THE STRATA.—HILLS BETWEEN CAMP AND THE
POSUNCULA RIYER.—BoTTOM-LAND OF POSUNCULA RIVER.—SWAMP OR SHALLOW POND.—ROUNDED HILLS ON THE WEST
SIDE OF THE TULARE YALLEY.—SANDSTONE AND FOSSILS OF OCOYA CREEK. — SELENITE.— SHARKS' TEETH ON THE HILLS.—
Ocora CREEK TO THE TEJON.—STEEP SLOPES OF THE HILLS.—PosuNCULA RIVER.— TERRACE.—F0sSIL-8TEMS.—CONGLOME-
RATE.—TERRACES.—LIGHT ARGILLACEOUS SOIL.—TERTIARY HILLS.—DRIFT AT TEJON CREEK.—TEJON.—SIERRA NEVADA.—
Depot CAMP.—SOIL or THE TEJON.—OAK OPENINGS —INDIAN RESERVATION.—CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL BY INDIANS.—
GRAPES.—CLIMATE OF THE TEJON VALLEY.

We reached Ocoya, or Posé creek, on the 8th of August ; it was then almost dry, and water
could be found only in deep and shaded holes of its channel. The low banks and bottom-land
were timbered with a dense growth of cottonwoods and willows, and considerable grass was
found along its borders. The green strip of vegetation showed out in strange contrast to the
barren and parched surface of the surrounding hills, which were without trees or any green
vegetation.

This absence of trees permitted all the outlines to be seen, and they were all finely curved
and rounded by the action of the weather. The soil upon their surfaces looks very light, and
is nearly white. They appear to be composed of sand and sandy clay, regularly stratified, and
alternating with strata of gravel and coarse sand. Pumice-stone, also, occurs in layers, and in
some places forms a large part of the strata.

ee Aba ie

DEPOT CAMP, OCOYA CREEK.
Our camping place being selected on a narrow plain near groves ot willows and cottonwoods,

preparations were made for remaining two or three weeks, while a preliminary reconnaissance

FOSSILS—TULARE VALLEY—COAST MOUNTAINS, 33

was made in the mountains in the region of Walker’s Pass. During the absence of this party
I remained in camp, and had a fine opportunity to examine the geology of the vicinity.

August 9.—Found a thick bed of the relics of shells in one of the hills on the left bank of the
creek, They are marine fossils and the lime has nearly all been removed, but perfect casts
remain in the sand and clay, it being firmly cemented by peroxide of iron. Collected numerous
specimens.

August 10 and 11.—Engaged upon the locality of fossils and procured fine specimens. In
another stratum, higher up in the series, found masses of charcoal imbedded with pumice and
fine sand, also an impression looking like a part of a leaf.

Our hunters brought in several fine deer and antelope and a small grizzly bear.

August 12.—Started with Captain Stoneman, Dr. Heerman and Mr. Koppel to go to Kern
Lake, or the western side of the Tulare valley. We passed down Posé creek for about one mile,
and then turned to the south over the hills dividing the waters of the creek from those of Kern
or Posuncula river. "These hills, like those at the camp, were composed of argillaceous sand-
stone, and I estimated them to be from five hundred to nine hundred feet high. We followed
an Indian trail over some of the highest of them. They appear more argillaceous at the top
than at the base, and are much cut and worn away by water, forming very steep slopes. In
some places there are great slides of the earth, and vertical cliffs of clay and sand are formed
nearly two hundred feet high. We reached Posuncula river and passed down its right bank on the
margin of a slough or bottom-land. Our progress was finally stopped by the thick growth of
canes, rushes and willows. We retraced our steps and kept on the outside or margin of the
bottom-land, travelling on the dry and barren plain by an Indian trail. This led to several
deserted rancherias and play grounds. About eight miles below the point where we first struck
the stream, the bank of the slough was nearly twenty feet high, and formed a terrace of that
elevation nearly a mile long, and then sloped down to the general level the of plain. A mile
and a half beyond, it was again found at about the same elevation and extended three or four
miles, when it again sloped off and was not found afterwards. This portion of the river bottom
was without timber ; but the moist land was indicated by a thick growth of grasses of various
kinds, many of which were collected. Several Indians were seen carrying baskets on their
backs, and we soon found that they were collecting grass seed, heaps of it being seen. This is,
probably, a part of their winter food.

We travelled until after sunset, and not being able to find any water EEE without it
upon the plain. There was no dew at night. It was almost — to sleep, there being
myriads of mosquitoes.

August 13.—' The thermometer at sunrise indicated a temperature of 58°. We rose early and
pressed forward towards the hills of the Coast Mountains, which now appeared very near.
After riding about fifteen miles, we reached the margin of a swamp or low ground, without any
vegetation except tufts of coarse grass and the common “‘ grease bush." The clay, however,
was soft and charged with water, which stood about one inch deep in the shallows. Beyond,
and between us and the lower hills of the Coast Mountains, a sheet of water was found to
extend. It did not emen] to be more dena half a mib iad, and yet it was, i in all probability,
two miles to the hills. T! se hills v 0 similarly to those of Ocoya creek,
which they so closely resemble that T have little doubt of their identity in lithological char-
acter and age. After scooping up enough of the warm, muddy water to make coffee, we

۱ A special description of the geology of this region will be found in Chapter XIII.
5F

34 GEOLOGY.

returned towards the mouth of Ocoya creek, and arrived in the evening, having had a hard
ride of about fifty miles. In numerous places over the plain there are dry water courses or
canals in the clay, and groves of dead cotton-wood trees. It is probable that the whole region
has been subject to overflow. It should be observed that the water of the slough, or lake, was
more or less saline, incrustations being found around the roots of the tufts of grass, where evapo-
ration had proceeded rapidly. Specimens of scoriaceous cinder, or volcanic slag, were also
found lying on the clay surface of the plain.

August 14, Sunday.—The thermometer indicated a temperature of 102° in the shade during
the middle of the day ; and a hot dry wind was constantly blowing from the west, following the
course of the valley of the creek.

August 15.—Examined the strata up the creek and on the right bank. The hills are in all
respects similar to those on the left. At one point, however, an outcrop of coarse-grained sand-
stone and conglomerate was found ; it was harder than the other strata, and modifies the
outline of the hills. At sunset clouds were seen over the mountains at the east. The day was
unusually warm, the thermometer standing at 104°.

August 16.—Collected more fossils, and made drawings of them; they are evidently Tertiary,

‘and probably quite recent—Miocene or Pliocene. Fresh water shells are abundant in the pools
of the creek, and specimens were preserved.

August 17 and 18.—Obtained the order of succession and lithological characters of the strata
forming one of the highest hills on the left bank of the creek. The edges are fully exposed in
several places, and in others are partly obscured by soil.1 Just before sunset we had a short
shower, and the clouds looked very heavy over the mountains.

August 19.—Made more extended excavations in the bed of fossils, and procured five or six
additional species. Most of the specimens became broken and mutilated in taking them out.
Some very large pectens were found, six inches in diameter; one of these was drawn by Mr.
Koppel. While he was turning over one of the masses of sandstone he was stung by a scorpion,
carrying a great number of little ones on her back. The application of a little ammonia water
quickly relieved the pain, and no further inconvenience was experienced.

August 20.—Found an additional number of species, and among them a shark’s tooth.
Specimens of transparent selenite were obtained from the tops of some of the hills and from
the bed of the creek. The water in the deep holes has now become very low, and is strongly
impregnated with sulphur. It has the odor of sulphuretted hydrogen. Thermometer 103° in
the shade. A comet was visible in the west this evening.

August 21.—The night was cold, and at sunrise the thermometer stood at 56 degrees. The
wind was blowing from the northeast, or down from the mountains, and this is generally the
case early in the morning.

August 27.—I have been prevented by illness from making any geological observations for
several days. The sudden and great transitions from a temperature of 103° and 104° during
the day to 40° and 50° at night, together with the use of stagnant water, are sufficient to pro
duce disease. On the evening of the 25th, I set up a pan of water in the shade of the brush-
shed, in order to determine, if possible, the rate of the evaporation of water during the day.
The hunters came in from the plains, bringing six fine carcases of deer and antelope, one of
them a fat buck, weighing, when skinned, 115 pounds, and his hind-quarters over 60. It was
of the black-tailed species.

! This section is described in Chapter XIII.

SHARK'S TEETH—POSUNCULA RIVER. 35

August 28.—We were visited by several Indians from Posuncula river. They brought a fish,
weighing about three pounds, and dressed deer skins for sale. |
August 29 and 31.—Examined the lithological character of several of the hills about camp, and
„obtained sections. On the tops of two of the hills opposite camp a great number of shark’s
teeth of different sizes were found lying loose on the surface, having been washed out by the
rains. Fragments of bone and of fossil wood were also procured. The elevation of these hills
above camp is about 500 feet, according to the aneroid barometer.

OCOYA CREEK TO THE TEJON.

Ocoya Creek to Posuncula River, September 1—10.8 miles.—The road or trail connecting Ocoya
creek with Posuncula river winds about among the rounded Tertiary hills already described, and a
fine view of the almost innumerable ravines and gulches that furrow their sides is presented.
The remarkable steepness of the slopes is also very distinctly seen along this trail, the
inclination often becoming 35°, so steep that it was impossible to ascend without first cutting a
foothold. Several land slides were also observed, where great hills appeared to be cut down
through the centre, exposing all the lines of stratification on the face of a vertical bluff. These
slides probably take place in the rainy season, when the soft clay and porous strata become
soaked with water, so that their weight is very much increased. The material which thus
breaks away from the hills is in a condition to be rapidly acted on by running water, and is
quickly removed to the lower grounds. The trail for the greater part of the distance between
the two streams follows the bottom of one of the ravines or water courses; it is, of course, very
tortuous, and in some places is so narrow that the wagons were forced to travel partly upon the
slopes of the hills. A sketch by Mr. Koppel presents a good view of the hills along a part of
this ravine, and serves to give a good idea of the general character of the hills near our camp on
Ocoya creek. (See View X, Chapter XIII.) Posuncula, or Kern river, like Ocoya creek, has
a nearly westerly course for a short distance after leaving the granite ridges of the Sierra. It
also traverses the belt of Tertiary foot-hills, and makes good natural sections of the strata along

its banks. The section it forms on its southern or left bank presents an interesti

when viewed from the tops of the hills, at the divide between its waters and tege of Ocoya
creek. The bank is seen to extend many miles, with a nearly uniform elevation above the
stream, presenting am even outline like the edge of a table land or terrace. It is, in fact, the

36 GEOLOGY.

margin of a table land or gentle slope, that inclines slightly towards the south, and becomes
merged in the slope of the Tulare valley. It is a portion of the former plateau of Tertiary
strata, but is much lower than the other portions undoubtedly were, and it may, therefore, be
concluded that the former sedimentary plain sloped gradually off in this direction, thinning down
to the level of the Tulares.

A view of this long even bank is given in the sketch. The round Tertiary hills are seen in
the foreground, and Posuncula river, with its broad delta, occupies the centre of the scene. The
broad belt of timber is on the sloughs of the river bottom, where it spreads out near the southern
lakes of the Tulares. The western border of this belt of Tertiary formation, from Posé creek
southward to Posuncula river, slopes off to the west, and passes insensibly into the Tulare plains
by a succession of gradual and gentle undulations of the surface.

It appears that the sand and gravel that has been brought down from these Tertiary hills by
alluvial action has been deposited along at their base; while the clays and finer volcanic sands
have been carried further out into the Tulares. In this way a narrow margin of nearly level
surface, composed of gravel and sand, has been formed at the base of the sedimentary hills,
separating them from the soft and clayey soil of the Tulares. This narrow belt affords a good
foundation for the construction of a railroad. è

Posuncula, or Kern River, to the Tejon Pass, September 2—31.13 miles.—The hills and remnants
of the elevated plateau adjoining Posuncula river exhibit, in many places, accumulations of cobble-
stones and small boulders much above the present level of the stream. They are, doubtless, the
remains of the drift of a former bed of the river, when it flowed at a higher level than now, as
they do not appear to have been derived from the subjacent strata.

Posuncula river, at the ford, is a deep, rapidly flowing stream ; and its banks are lined with
great accumulations of drift rocks, in masses much rounded by transportation in water. These
consisted principally of syenites and basaltic and flinty rocks, varying in size from six inches to
two feet in diameter. y

Fossil stems.—Among these boulders I found a mass of a jaspery, silicious rock, of a yellowish
color, that was filled with silicified fossil stems, preserved so completely that every cell and
tube was distinctly visible. Some of the fragments are represented of the natural size in the

annexed figures. The oblique section of the stem was drawn so as to show the arrangement of
the cells and radiating lines.

FOSSIL STEMS OF PLANTS.

The boulder containing these beautiful stems was abont eighteen inches in diameter, and is
a short distance below the ford, on the right bank of the stream. It must have been trans-
ported from the headwaters of the river, or from the sedimentary beds a short distance above;
having been broken out by the action of floods. It is very desirable that the original locality of
these fossils should be discovered, and their geological associations made known. Itis probable
that the examination of the rock in situ would develop many interesting forms not found in

FOSSIL PLANTS—POSUNCULA RIVER—TEJON. 37

these transported fragments. Similar fossils were afterwards found, in place, near the summit
of the Sierra Nevada, at the pass called the Canada de las Uvas.—(See chap. V!.)

Posuncula, or Kern river is one of the most important streams that enters the Tulare valley.
It isthe most southern of the tributaries to the Tulare lakes, and enters that now called Kern
lake by a number of mouths. After the river emerges from the Tertiary hills, it turns abruptly
from its westerly course to the southward, and spreads out over the slope by a number of shallow
channels, which thus form a broad bottom land covered with timber and grass.

It was evident that this river is liable to great floods, and that the current is at such times
very rapid and powerful. The low bottom lands or banks were not very broad, but were thickly
overgrown with cottonwood, sycamore, and willows of several kinds.

The water of the river was perfectly clear, and at the ford the temperature was 67° ; but it
must become more and more elevated as the water descends to lower parts of the stream in tlie
plain, where it spreads out into the many sloughs, that are comparatively shallow, and expose
large surfaces to the rays of the sun. A conglomerate of sand and gravel is exposed in the bed
of the river, which resists the wear of the current exceedingly well.

Terraces.—Indistinct terraces were observed on the southern bank; and the upper one forms
the long, even outline, before referred to. From the top of this terrace the road descends
gradually toward the south until the Tulare plain is reached. The soil for the greater part of
the distance contains a large proportion of clay, and is exceedingly fine. "When broken up by
the animals, it became perfectly light and dusty, and resembled dry ashes. This argillaceous
and light character is principally confined to the lower parts of the slope and to the plain. The
soil probably is not good or so well fitted for cultivation as the purely granitic soils found in
the vicinity of the granitic and metamorphic rocks where the Tertiary strata are absent.

We soon reached the foot of the slope ; or it became so gentle that we appeared to be travers-
ing a wide plain. On the west the view towards the Tulare lakes was unobstructed, and on
the east the mountains were formed of several ridges. High peaks were seen, but they. were
without snow.

The high ridge, or mountain, along the western base of which we travelled, appeared to be
well timbered to its top, and no outcrops of rock were visible. We were, however, several
miles distant, and the rocks may have been hid by the trees. "This ridge, as it extends to the
south, decreases in altitude, and finally passes below the general level of the plain or moun-
tain-slopes. Our course was directed to this point; and on turning it, a broad area, several
miles in width, and nearly level, was brought to view. It extends back from the ridge, east-
ward to the main chain of the mountains, and is enclosed on three sides, being a broad valley,
or partly enclosed slope, called the Tejon. It is traversed by a creek issuing from a pass in the
mountains, and this creek cuts through the southern point of the low ridge which separates the
valley from the Tulare plains.

The low, rounded hills of the Tertiary formation appear to skirt the Sierra Nevada southward
from the cañon of Posuncula river to the extremity of this low ridge. At this extremity they are
developed in a narrow belt of elevations, which in many places present vertical exposures that are
white and chalk-like. They are probably a compound of white volcanic sands and ashes, and the
debris of white granite. Near the entrance to the valley of the Tejon creek I found large accumu-
lations of drift confusedly stratified, and obscuring the stratification and lithological characters
of the Tertiary strata. This dxift is principally of syenite and coarsely crystallized granitic

! See also a description and drawing by Professor J. W. Bailey, Appendix, Article V.

38 GEOLOGY.

and metamorphic masses, some of them a yard in diameter, and confusedly intermingled with
smaller masses and coarse gravel. It also contains pebbles of porphyry, and other volcanic
rocks. This is a portion of a continuous series of drift accumulations and erratics that are
found along the slope flanking the Sierra in this region, and they bear evidence of having been
iransported by a powerful current from the mountains.

* TEJON.

In ascending the slope of the Tejon several Indian rancherias were passed. The ground
about them appeared to have been rudely cultivated, irrigation being resorted to. Other por-
tions of the plain were dry and gravelly. Further up the slope, however, and along the creek,
fine groves of oak trees were found and an abundance of excellent grass. We crossed the creek
and encamped in a beautiful grove, not far from the camp of Messrs. Ridley and Brooks, who
have made some improvements and cultivated a number of acres.

ail ilg ۳

>, Sce
TEJON RE chi

Mountains are visible from our camp on all sides, but those on the southwest are distant and
are on the western side of the southern end of the Tulare plain. They are the southern portion
of the Coast Mountains, and appear to curve around so as to unite with the southern end of the
Sierra Nevada. The mountains on the east of camp—the Sierra Nevada, if they may be $0
called—are without snow at this season, and are much lower than the portion of the chain farther
north. The first ridge of the chain may be said to be on the west of us, the same we crossed
when travelling from Posuncula river ; but the principal ridge is in full view on the east, and is
about three miles distant. Its surface is brownish yellow, @nd is partly shaded by oak trees
standing apart, at wide intervals.

AGRICULTURE ON THE INDIAN -RESERV ATION —GRAPES. 39

A creek (Tejon creek) issues from the pass and flows down over the broad plain or slope of
the Tejon. For the first part of its course it flows near the mountains on the southeast side, but
then turns and flows across to the northern portion of the valley. Its course is marked by a
line of trees and shrubbery, while the surrounding surface is perfectly bare and desert-like.

The point selected for the depot camp was on the border of the creek, about three miles from
the entrance to the pass, being in the northern or northeast part of the Tejon, as represented on
the general map.

The surface of the Tejon slopes gently away from the surrounding mountains, but the descent
is so gradual that it appears almost level.

Soil of the Tejon.—During the summer season the slopes of the Tejon generally present a
uniform brown or drab color, similar to that of the San Joaquin plains. They look barren and
desert-like, and the soil seems to be merely ordinary gravel and sand and not suited to vegeta-
tion. On examination, we find that this granular gravel is the debris of granitic rocks, and
that it contains a large amount of feldspar and mica. It is not rounded and water-worn, but is
angular and friable, being chiefly fragments of granite which are rapidly decomposing and form
a loose but rich soil, capable of supporting a heavy growth of vegetation and well adapted to
agriculture.

This soil, although rich in all the important inorganic constituents, is almost without the
common vegetable mould that gives the dark color to soils that have long been subjected to
cultivation. :

This absence of humus is a prominent characteristic of the upland soils of California, and is
caused by the prolonged drought of the dry season, which destroys the vitality of the roots of
grasses and other plants, and thus prevents the formation of a sod.

The portion of the valley in the vicinity of the camp was well timbered, being covered by
groves of beautiful trees.

Nearly all of the trees were oak, the same species as those seen in the valleys near Martinez
and Livermore's. It is the Quercus macradenia of Dr. Torrey, or Q. Hindsii of Bentham.

These thick groves of wood and the luxuriant growth of grass, whenever the ground was suffi-
ciently shaded and moist, show the depth and the agricultural capabilities of the soil.

The cultivation around the Indien rancherias, located in different parts of the valley, also
exhibited the fertility of the soil. "The ground about many of them was well cultivated, water
being brought from the creek by numerous acequias to irrigate the surface. In these fields,
corn, barley, and melons were growing luxuriantly, and it was evident that the ground only
required water to make it productive. !

It is probable that grapes could be cultivated in this valley with success. The borders of the
creek were overgrown in places by thick masses of grapevines, loaded with long and
heavy clusters of fruit. This grape is deserving of attention, as it is probable that it will be
found an exceedingly valuable variety for the manufacture of wine. The berry is small and
round, and much resembles the ordinary ‘‘ frost grape’’ of New England; but it is larger,
more juicy and rich in flavor, and also has a high color, yielding a juice of a rich claret-color.

1 While we were at the Tejon, Lieutenant E. F. Beale arrived from the Atlantic States, having been appointed Superin-
tendent of Indian affairs for California. The Tejon was selected by him as the most appropriate place for an Indian Reserva-
tion, and he collected together a great number of Indians, provided them with agricultural implements, and induced them
to cultivate the soil. A canal, five feet wide and three deep and ten miles in length, was constructed for purposes of

tion. Nineteen hundred (1,900) acres in one field were sown with wheat, and seven hundred Indians were at work

irriga
upon it at one time. Forty, and sometimes fifty, ploughs were pepe on this field, and it was found that the ground
broke readily, being free from roots and rocks or other obstructions

40 GEOLOGY.

Climate of the Tejon Valley —We reached the Tejon on the third of September, and portions
of the Expedition remained there until the ninth of October. At the time of breaking up the
camp the temperature during the days was from 80° to 90°, and at night about 60°. The
weather was evidently becoming cooler, and we were forcibly reminded of the approach of winter
by the flocks of wild geese that passed to the southward every night. The Indians were
engaged in collecting the thick clusters of ripe grapes for their winter use, and all the crops of
melons were harvested. I learned from Mr. Ridley, one of the two settlers of this place, that
‘the winter rains commence about the 15th of December, and that then the grass springs up
rapidly, and is green through the winter; by the month of April it is high on the plains, and
is preferred by the cattle to the grass on the bottom land of the creek. The autumn months of
October and November are the only ones without an abundance of green grass; and this
period may be regarded as the winter for cattle. It is said that snow sometimes covers the
Tejon slope for a short time during the winter. Lieutenant Beale, who remained there during
the rainy season of 1853-54, informs me that the ground was thinly covered from the base of
the mountains nearly to the lakes, and that ice was once found half an inch thick. This was
considered as remarkable, and as an unusually severe winter. Snow, also, accumulated in the
ravine of the pass to a depth of several feet, and it is, undoubtedly, found there in considerable
quantity almost every winter, and also on the elevated valley of Tah-ee-chay-pah.

During the stay of the main party and the escort at the Tejon, a full geological examination
of the pass was made in connexion with Lieutenant Williamson's surveys. The Cañada de las
Uvas was also examined, and an expedition made to the vicinity of the pass of San Amedio at
the head of the Tulare valley.

Other fields were planted with barley, corn, and vegetables, and the different Indian villages were surrounded with
smaller fields similarly planted. The following tabular statement will give an idea of the extent of the crops raised, of the
fertility of the soil, and the adaptation of both the soil and climate to agriculture :

Description of crop. Amount in | Number of | Bushels
bushels. acres r

Wheat . 61,530 2,051 30
Barley 8,000 400 20
Corn 12,480 416 30
Beans .... 500 25 30
Turnips aU nic.
Pumpkins, melons, and cabbages 300 /|.......-

The crop of one acre, that presented a favorable appearance, was carefully measured, and the yield found to be fifty
A nursery of young fruit trees was commenced and planted with upwards of two thousand plants, including grapevin
pear, orange, fig, pomegranate, peach, apple, and cherry trees. These all appear to thrive well, and will, تیم‎
develop rapidly.
The Indians, by whose labors these results have been accomplished, came from remote portions of California, and speak
different languages.
Mr. Beale appears to have been remarkably successful in his attempt to control these savages, and to cause them to labor
_ for their maintenance. By — management, they have been led to labor together cheerfully, and to become e greatly
interested in their occupation
When I was last at the vwd in October, 1853, the ground on which these crops were raised had never been furrowed
by a plough, and in the summer of 1854 the crops mentioned in the preceding table were harvested. No better evidence
of the fertility of soils, composed of granitic gravcl and sand, can be presented.

VETAT |
OD ns a ml

CHAPTER V.
TEJON TO SAN AMEDIO—CANADA DE LAS UVAS.

REPORTED EXISTENCE OF SILVER.—ENTRANCE TO THE CANADA DE LAS UVAS.—SANDSTONE STRATA PROBABLY TERTIARY.—
A

FILLED WITH FOSSIL SHELLS.—GRANITE AND METAMORPHIC ROCKS.—OAK TREES.—GRIZZLY BEARS.—OPEN VALLEY.—LIME-

STONE.—DRY LAKE COVERED WITH SALT —GRIZZLY BEAR.—GRANITE AND ERUPTED ROCK.—UPRAISED STRATA OF SAND-

STONE.—ROUNDED HILLS.—ERUPTED ROCK IN DYKES.—SECTION OF SANDSTONE STRATA.—FossIL STEMS OF PLANTS, SILICI-

FIED.—RIDGES OF WHITE LIMESTONE AT THE SUMMIT OF THE PASS.—IRON ORE.—TERTIARY STRATA.

During our stay at the Tejon, I learned that. masses of ore were found in the mountains to
the southwest, about twenty miles distant. It was supposed to be lead or silver ore, being
called ** plata ’’ by the Indians, who seemed to think it could be found in immense quantities.
After the completion of the geological examination of the Tejon, it was arranged that I should
visit the locality to determine, as far as possible, the nature and value of this mineral.

September 20.—Through the assistance of Mr. Ridley, who was living in camp in the valley
at the time of our visit, the services of an Indian guide, named José, were procured, and I
started, with two men, for the locality. We passed southward, across the slope of the Tejon,
towards the mountains at the head of the Tulares, intending to pass by the entrance to the
Cañada de las Uvas—a long and favorable pass through the mountains to the Great Basin.
We passed, on our way, the cultivated fields of several Indian villages and an adobe house,
built by an American, but now occupied by Indians. The path from this point leads over
gently undulating ground and some low, rounded hills, to the level of the Tulare plain; and
after this is traversed for a short distance, the ascent of a long and gentle slope to the mountains
is commenced. At the upper part of the slope and at the base of the mountains we found one
or two Indian huts, occupied by Antonio, one of the chiefs of the Tejon Indians. He received
us very graciously, conversing in Spanish, and sold us a very fine watermelon, raised upon his
ground. This place is at the entrance to the Cañada de las Uvas, and is about fifteen miles from
the Tejon camp. The soil for nearly the whole distance was found to be hard and gravelly, and
no stones larger than an egg were found until the foot of the mountains was reached. They
are, however, found of considerable size along the whole course of the Tejon creek, showing the
former power of floods from the mountains. At the mouth of the Caiiada, where there is also a
small creek, the boulders were very abundant and of considerable size. Blocks of granite and
hornblendic slates and gneiss, together with masses of white crystalline limestone, were seen, and
they indicate that the rocks of the Cañada are similar to those of the Tejon.

We travelled westward from this point over the upper part of the long slope from the mount-
ains, keeping as near the foot-hills as possible. "There was but little or no vegetation, and the
surface was dry and gravelly. Numerous dry gullies or arroyós descend from the ridges, and

6F

P QA d cala AS

42 GEOLOGY.

their banks are lined with debris, consisting of various volcanic and sedimentary rocks.

Boulders of beautiful porphyry, filled with grass-green crystals, were found at one of these dry

water-courses, and from their numbers I inferred that the rock was in place in the ridges.

Other porphyritic boulders were of a delicate pink or lilac color, and some were brown and
ack.

Sandstone Strata, probably Tertiary.— After traversing the slope westward from the Cafiada de
las Uvas for about eight miles, I turned southward and followed up the course of the dry bed
of a stream among the low foot-hills of sedimentary origin, which are much cut by ravines, and
present a barren appearance when viewed from the Tejon. Before reaching this canada I
found a block of sandstone near the trail, from which casts and impressions of shells of the
genera Meretrix and Stramonita were obtained. The specimens that were preserved are regarded
as new species by Mr. Conrad, and he has named them Meretrix Tularana, Pl. III, Fig. 22;
and Stramonita petrosa, Pl. VI, Figs. 47 and 47°. They are probably of Miocene age; and
there is little doubt that the boulder was brought down by floods from the adjoining hills.
After traversing the cafiada for a short distance, it was observed that the strata in some places
were much distorted, being uplifted and set nearly on edge, and so bent that the stratification
showed out in curved lines along the banks, with a southerly dip. These strata were much
obscured in places by a recent drift or detritus, forming a conglomerate which rested uncon-
formably upon their edges and filled the inequalities of surface. This is a local drift, and has
apparently accumulated during the excavation of the valleys, the higher beds being the oldest,
having been transported and deposited before the stream had excavated the channel to its present
depth. `

As the cañada was ascended the hills became higher, and I soon found good natural sections
of the strata with the dip towards the north.

We left this valley, where there is running water and a line of cottonwood trees, and ascended
the left bank, passing again towards the west. The point at which we turned is near the line
of junction of the sedimentary formations with the granite. This may be known by the greater
amount of the foliage on the granitic rocks and the growth of large evergreen trees, and by the
difference in altitude and outline. A high bluff of sandstone was also near. We travelled over.
a very rugged and irregular path, seeing high-bluffs of sandstone on the right, and on the other
hand, or south side, thick strata of sandstone were resting at an angle of nearly fifty degrees;
the tabular masses being broken and showing finely, with oak and pine trees, and shrubs, grow-
ing in the fissures and between the overlapping strata.

The path, we followed, led us for a long distance at the foot of hills composed of these hard
sandstones, and it was evident that we followed theline of trend. The surface on each side was
overgrown with dwarf-oaks, so thick and strong that they were impenetrable, and we were obliged
to follow the bed of the creek, now entirely dry. The oaks were loaded with acorns of various
sizes and forms,! and these appeared to be much sought after by bears, their paths and tracks
being very numerous, and the only onesthat werefound. A large quantity of pebbles, composed
of trappean and porphyritic rocks, were seen along this creek, and may have been washed out of
the surrounding beds of sandstone and conglomerate.

On reaching another deep valley, apparently extending towards the Tulares, we again turned
southwards towards the high mountains, then very near us, and looking invitingly green and

' Leaves and fruit of the most common species were collected, and have iti is considered
Bep ; ; been submitted to Dr. Torrey. It is co!
as Quercus agrifolia ; variety, acutidens.

TERTIARY —GRANITE —SULPHURET OF ANTIMONY. 43

well timbered. A fine section of sandstone strata was soon brought to view, the creek, or
valley, being at right angles to the trend of the strata. They were much uplifted, and a very
great thickness was exposed. It being nearly dark, we pressed on towards the camping place.
We soon arrived at a fine spring, in the midst of a thick clump of tall reeds or canes, and en-
camped. The barometer, being set up, indicated an elevation of nearly 1,800 feet above the
Tejon camp, or 3,200 feet above the sea.

September 21.— Left camp soon after sunrise, being detained by the absence of José, who had
gone off in pursuit of mountain sheep. He soon returned, excited, but not successful. We trav-
elled towards the high and heavily timbered ridges, and passed among a considerable quantity
of sage-bush of vigorous growth. Granitic rocks were soon observed ; the first outcrop was
gneissose, and dips at an angle of about forty degrees northerly. This was succeeded by com-
pact rocks retaining lines of structure, and beyond by gneissoidal rocks dipping to the southeast.

About four miles from camp we reached a spring, and near it found the ruins of a log-house.
This, according to our guide, was the ** Campo de los Americanos ;’’ being the place where some
adventurers had lived and attempted to smelt the ore. "The ruins of the cabin were charred by
fire; and at a short distance we found the walls or adobes of a forge or furnace, in the bed or
hearth of which a mass of slag remained.

I could not find any great quantity of slag or cinder about this furnace, and concluded that
it had not been used long when it was abandoned. There were no evidences of mining in the
vicinity, nor any heaps of ore. .José seemed to think that his duty was accomplished, and
was disinclined to go\further. In answer to inquiries about the ore, and where it was obtained,
he only pointed to the forge and ruins, saying: ‘‘ Me sabe no mas." He, however, went to-
wards the confusedly mingled debris and rounded fragments of rock at the end of a long ravine,
and soon found a mass of the ore about as large as one's fist, and much rounded by attrition.
On breaking this open, it was found to consist of nearly pure sulphuret of antimony; the freshly
broken surfaces being brilliant, and like those of the ore from the East Indies. "The ascent of
the ravine was immediately commenced with the intention to find the vein from which the
masses of ore were transported.

The view up the ravine was beautiful. The mountains rose with steep slopes to a great
height on each side, and on the north, a precipitous bluff of white granite was seen above the
tops of the tall firs which covered all the slopes, and grew to an enormous size in the bottom of
the ravine. Some of these trees were over six feet in diameter, and probably two hundred feet
high. Their foliage resembled that of the fir balsam, but the bark was not smooth nor the
trunks round. Enormous festoons of gray and bright-yellow moss hung down from all the
branches, and added greatly to the antiquated appearance of these noble trees.

In ascending the ravine, masses of ore were constantly found among the rocks. The great
accumulation of rocks in the bottom of the ravine, piled up in long lines and thrown together
in great heaps on all sides, showed that enormous floods of “water descend here at certain
seasons. This great accumulation of debris was at length traced to the base of an almost ver-
tical ascent or channel on the side of a high ridge. This channel was bounded on each side by
bluff walls of a light-colored granitic rock, which appeared to be exceedingly friable, and
cleaved readily in various directions, as if it was completely shattered or divided by fissures.
The debris of the long ravine below consisted in great part of the fragments of this rock, and
the foot of the ridge was covered with it.

We commenced clambering up over this mass of broken rock, and were encouraged at every

Fe ae DAR E OR POS SEES EN

JE m
i

44 GEOLOGY.

step by finding masses of ore, some of them of great size and weight. One solid, and appa-
rently pure mass, was found to be sixteen inches long and about ten wide; another measured
twenty-seven inches long and eighteen wide. A mass of quartz was also found, traversed by
long prismatic masses of the ore.

The ascent at length became very hazardous from the abrupt and precipitous character of the
channel, and the quantity of loose blocks of granite which were easily dislodged and sent rol-
ling downwards. An outcrop of yellowish-gray ochre, the ‘‘ gossan’’ of the vein, was at length
reached and seen exposed at intervals along the face of a rugged cliff. This indicated the course
of the vein, which was ascertained to be about north and south. From some points of view it
seemed to be west of north. The outcrop is not at the summit of the mountain, but is at one
of the steepest and most inaccessible parts of its slope. It was impossible to follow the vein
along its course, or to get directly below the exposure. It could be reached at one side, and
several specimens of well crystallized gypsum were taken out of the gossan. The vein appeared
to be from four to ten feet thick, and to be bounded on each side by granitic rock. This granite
in many respects closely resembles that found in the Tejon Pass. It is traversed by lines of
structure, and is very probably metamorphic. The rock adjoining the ore contained more
hornblende than the rest. Small veins of carbonate of lime and some of quartz were seen
traversing the rock in various directions. The altitude of this outerop is about six thousand
feet above the sea. One of Green's cistern barometers was taken up, and the height of the
column found to be 24,320 inches ; attached thermometer, 88°, 9 A. M.

From this point I ascended to the top of the-ridge with considerable difficulty and exertion;
at one time climbing a dwarfed oak tree in order to get over a vertical wall of rock. The ver-
tical distance from the vein to the top of the mountain must be about one thousand feet, but it
appeared to be much greater. I was well repaid for the labor and fatigue of the ascent by the

-splended view from the summit. Northwards, the vision was unobstructed, and the bread, ex-
tensive valley of the Tulares was before me. On one side the heights of the Sierra Nevada, and
on the other the ranges of the Coast Mountains, stretched out towards the north until their re-
mote peaks were lost in the smoky distance. They seemed like great arms holding the semi-
desert plain and its shallow lakes between them. The two small lakes, Buena Vista and Po-
suncula lakes, were distinctly visible below, and the long line of timber on the sloughs of Po-
suncula river lay spread out before me asif on a map. The direction of the centre of Posuncula
lake was roughly taken by compass, and found to be N. 5° W., and Buena Vista lake N. 40? W.

The first ranges of heights of the Coast Mountains were readily overlooked, and a broad valley,
or basin, was seen to extend between them and the next range, or the hills on the west. This
basin appeared to be the bed of a dry lake; it much resembled those seen in the Great Basin
from the summit of the Tejon Pass. ‘The whole region seemed peculiarly brown and barren.
The direction of this plain or dry lake, by compass, was N. 80° W. The Tejon was in full
view, and the following bearings were taken: Depot camp, or its vicinity, N. 47° E.; Adobe
house, N. 46° E.; summit of the ridge on the north side of the entrance to the Tejon Pass, N.
55° E. These bearings are all approximate, having been taken. by a compass without sights.

The northern slope of the mountain is much less abrupt than the southern, which may be
called precipitous, and is well timbered with pine trees even at the summit. No outcrops of
ore could be found on the summit ; but the rocks themselves do not appear, being covered by
soil and roots of vegetation. A small mass of the ore was lying on the ground, and evidently
had been broken up by some explorer. No part of the vein exhibited distinct traces of mining

SANDSTONE NEAR SAN AMEDIO—RETURN TO CAMP. 45

operations, and it is probable that the ore used in the furnace was obtained from the debris in
the ravine.

After obtaining specimens of the ore and the adjoining rocks, we returned to the camp-ground
of the previous evening and again encamped.

September 22.—We returned towards the Cafiada de las Uvas by the same trail, and, soon
after leaving camp, passed the great outcrop of sandstone strata seen on the afternoon of the
20th. The highest part of this series of strata was estimated to be over five hundred feet above
the level of the creek. "The accompanying wood-cut will show the character of the strata and
their inclination.

INCLINED STRATA OF SANDSTONE NEAR SAN AMÉDIO.

Several observations on the dip were made with the clinometer, and angles, varying from 45?
to 50°, were obtained. The colors of the strata are various; the lower beds are red, being
highly colored by oxide of iron. A coarse conglomerate is found among the lower beds on the
opposite side of the creek, the stones being from three to six inches in diameter, and much
rounded. The same bed is probably found in the lower parts of the strata represented in the
engraving. Nearly all the strata are argillaceous sandstone, in layers of varying thickness.

It was impossible to remain in that vicinity long enough to give these outcrops a careful,and
critical examination. I searched for fossils, in the hope of determining the age of the formation,
but without success. It is much more consolidated than the Miocene formation along Ocoya
creek, and the disturbed and uplifted condition of the strata indicate a different age. The lower

one OMNCM n v AN S TECTA etl ری افش‎

46 GEOLOGY.

hills have a different appearance, and more nearly resemble the Ocoya creek beds; they are
similarly cut by numerous dry ravines; and high banks, or vertical cliffs, have been formed by
floods, showing that tho strata are soft and unconsolidated. "They present alternations of white
and buff-colored clays, with red layers, containing a large portion of oxide of iron. By the
action of the weather, these clay-cliffs are worn into fantastic forms ; and at one locality, I saw
the most extraordinary combinations of conical peaks rising, one above the other, to sharp points,
like church steeples; at a short distance they looked like a forest of spires.

These soft strata are very probably of the same age as the Ocoya creek formation, and the
harder and uplifted strata nearer the granite are probably older.

When we arrived opposite the high cliffs of sandstone, several mountain sheep were seen
among the rocks, and others were afterwards observed several miles lower down in the valley.
It is probable that they are numerous in that vicinity, it being rarely visited by hunters and
` others. On our return through the valley where so many bear tracks were seen, we ascended
a high hill and reached a high, open space well covered by grass. José soon discovered two or
three deer at a distance, and succeeded in killing one. Game of all kinds is peculiarly abundant
here, the high grassy valleys and the secure retreats among the rocks being very favorable.

We reached the entrance of the Cañada de las Uvas about sundown, after a long and fatiguing
ride, the sun's rays being exceedingly hot and oppressive at the foot of the hills, where there
was but little or no wind.

September 93.— We left camp and travelled over the same trail we followed on the 20th, and
reached the depot camp at the Tejon in the afternoon.

The Indians of the Tejon make beautiful baskets, or shallow trays, out of a round wiry grass,
which they wind and weave together very dexterously. The grass is stained with different
colors, and is worked in so as to produce different geometrical figures. "These baskets are highly

valued, and are used to contain food after being cooked, or even to boil water in by means of
hot stones, the weaving of the grass being so close that they are completely water-tight. They
last for years, and are called cortas.
CANADA DE LAS UVAS.

September 29.— Started with the party to survey the Cañada de las Uvas. Large boulders
and erratic masses of rock were found all along the banks of the Tejon creek, as far as the
adobe house.

At the entrance of the Cañada, the abundance of boulders along the little creek which flows
out from the pass; gave good indications of the rocks exposed along its sides. This accumula-
tion has already been noticed, but at this visit a greater variety of blocks of granite, syenite and
metamorphic rocks was found. A boulder of sandstone was also found, filled with fossil shells,
beautifully preserved. The shells were white, and looked as fresh and solid as if taken from the
water but the day before. The mass was broken up and several species obtained and preserved."

The first outerop of rock is granitic or metamorphie, the rock being traversed by lines of
structure. It contains a large amount of dark-green mica, to the apparent exclusion of horn-
blende. Veins composed almost wholly of mica, in small scales, were also seen ; these were 80
black as to resemble strings ofhornblendeorironore. A white,silvery mica was also found beyond.
The Canada is bounded by high hills or mountains, perhaps 2,500 or 3,000 feet above the trail,
and the sides are very precipitous. The botton of the ravine is filled with a thick accumulation

"These have been examined and reported on‘ by Mr Conrad. See Appendix, Article II, and Chap. XIII. -

=
a

E

3

E
=
d
a
E

GRIZZLY BEARS—LIMESTONE— SALT LAKE. 4T

of drift and debris, mingled with earth, through which the creek has cut a channel, and thus
formed a terrace or bench on each side, between it and the high mountains. There is very little
timber on the hills, so that the whole surface was exposed to the sight, and the outcrops of rock
could be noted here and there. Between these outcrops there were broad patches of good soil,
which supported a scanty growth of grass and an occasional oak.

The high hills on each side, presenting occasional outcrops of granitic rocks, were found to
extend for four or five miles from the entrance; the valley then becomes more open, and the
granite ridges lower, and nearly covered by a loose sedimentary formation resembling ordinary
drift, but containing more clay. The surface of the valley is covered with a luxuriant growth
of grass, and a deep soil supports groves of magnificent oak trees, some of them eight feet in
diameter. A small brook of pure and cold water was found here, and our camp was on its
borders, under the branches of the large oaks, while those branches that had fallen, or been
broken off by bears in gathering acorns, furnished fuel for the fires. While we were encamped
here an unusual number of grizzly bears were seen. They frequently came to the water to
drink, in the evening, just after sunset. One of the large oaks bears the following inscription,
cut deeply into the hard wood: ‘“ Peter le Beck, killed by a bear, Oct. 17, 1837." A broad,
flat surface was hewed upon the trunk, and well smoothed off before the letters were cut. It is
a durable monument.

September 30.—The valley widens out beyond camp, and a broad plain, covered with grass,
is bordered on each side by oak groves extending for miles.

Several outcrops of limestone were found near the commencement of this plain, and they
appear to extend across it obliquely, the rock being found in the ridges on each side. Another
outcrop was found at the eastern extremity of the plain, and on the north side, at the termina-
tion of the range of hills. The surface of these hills is rounded and appears barren; but few
outcrops of rock were observed.

Salt pond, or Casteca lake, (dry.)—At the eastern end of the grassy plain the pass deflects to-
wards the south for a short distance, and then again extends east and west. A narrow path or
trail, however, extends over the hills in a more direct line, and passes by the dry bed of a small
lake or pond whitened by a solid incrustation of salt. This salt had evidently been left by the
evaporation of water, which probably collects there to a depth of several feet during the rainy

season. The salt forms a perfectly white crust, in some places two or three inches thick. It

looks like a snow-field, and bears a strong contrast with the dark-green foliage of the oak
timber growing near the shore. The winds, as they course along over this smooth, unobstructed
surface of salt, loosen large quantities and throw it into drifts, or raise it in clouds and small
whirlwinds, that dance lightly from shore to shore and fill the air for a great distance to lee-
ward of the lake, distributing it in a fine powder over the adjoining hills, and salting whole
acres of vegetation.

This salt is probably derived from the Tertiary sediments that abound in the vicinity, and is
dissolved out by the percolation of surface water and by springs. As the lake is a common
receptacle for the drainage of a large surface of this formation, and has, apparently, no outlet,
it is doubtless the case that this quantity of salt has been gradually accumulating ; the waters
becoming annually more and more highly charged, and consequently a larger quantity of salt
crystallizing with each successive evaporation.

In this way, interior fresh water lakes may gradually become salt, merely from the supply

bj

48 i GEOLOGY.

received from the strata of a recent marine formation, and not necessarily from the evaporation
of a larger body of salt water left by a retiring ocean.

I found that the salt of this little lake was exceedingly bitter and nauseous ; probably owing
to the presence of a large proportion of chloride of magnesium. Plants, similar to those that
flourish luxuriantly on the seashore, were growing around the margin of the lake-bed. A speci-
men of the plant most abundant at the border of the salt is, according to Dr. Torrey, Shoberia
calceoliformis, of the natural order of C’henopodiacee. I also obtained a species of Salicornia,
apparently S. fructiosa.

Although the lake is small and insignificant, compared with the salt lakes of the Great Basin,
it is a good illustration of the formation of beds of salt.

Granite and Volcanic rock.—I followed the trail around the margin of this field of salt, and left
the valley of the pass and the main party. The trail led for some distance between a high hill
and the salt, and then followed a long, narrow valley between the hills, among groves of oak.
The path was very dusty, and apparently much travelled, but the mule was very unwilling to

` keep it. I soon found it to be a bear trail, and full of recent tracks of great size. After pressing

forward with caution for about half a mile, the mule suddenly stopped, and I discovered a
gigantic grizzly bear, with three cubs, slowly mounting the hill on the left, and about one
hundred yards distant. Seeing me stop, she halted, and, partly turning, uttered a low growl,
which I did not wait to hear repeated, but gained the top of the hill on the other side as quickly
as possible.

On regaining the trail which leads over the summit, through a slight depression, a large
wooden cross was found planted in the ground on tbe summit, at the right. From this point
there was a fine view of the eastern end of the valley of the Cañada, nearly to its opening out
upon the broad region of the Great Basin. No outerops of rock could be found at the summit
of these hills ; the surface everywhere was rounded, and the soil was sandy. On descending,
however, on the opposite side towards the valley, outerops of white and fine-grained granite were
found. A fine spring was found half-way down the hill, and at the point where the trail enters
the valley there are two or three small ponds of water partly surrounded by reeds. A number
of ducks were found here. Granite outcrops were found for two or three hundred yards, and it
then gave place to a hard, reddish volcanic rock, apparently a dyke. Sandstone in inclined beds
was seen beyond, the trend being nearly east and west, and the dip northwards about forty
degrees,

At this point of the pass, and eastward towards the Great Basin, the country opens into 8
succession of low hills, with rounded outlines, characteristic of the sandstone and drift forma-
tion. The last is well developed on the right or south side of the valley, near the Los Angeles
trail, where numerous vertical exposures of the strata are produced by the wearing action of
small streams descending from the surrounding granitic heights. These hills of horizontal sedi-
ment are composed of water-worn masses of the adjoining granite and limestone, and the sub-
jacentrocks. They present some peculiarities of stratification that indicate an origin more recent
than the sandstone of the Tulare slope of the Sierra. Several miles beyond, and near to the Great
Basin, several outerops of sandstone, with inclinations at various angles, were found. At one
place the sandstone was coarse, very hard, and associated with a bed of conglomerate. The
trend was nearly east and west, and the strata on edge. The hills on the left or north side be-
come lower, while those on the right side of the valley retain their elevation, and appear to be

SILICIFIED PLANTS—UPLIFTED STRATA. 49

succeeded by graniticor other hard rocks beyond. It was not possible to determine whether the
strata of these hills were all upraised ; the soil was deep and generally obscured the rocks.

On reaching the outlet of a small brook or rivulet, coming in from the mountains at the south
through a slight valley between the hills at the eastern end of the pass, we turned up and en-
camped a short distance above. The rivulet did not flow far below its source, in a spring just
above the camp, but there was an abundance of water and grass, and oak trees, most of them
the evergreen variety, with the spinous leaves and slender, pointed acorns, (Quercus agrifolia.)
The hills, at the point where we turned and entered the valley, appeared to consist of upraised
sandstone alone; but higher up, a red eruptive rock, trappean and amygdaloidal, made its ap-
pearance in extensive outcrops. It appears to form both sides of the valley.

A large outcrop of sandstone strata is found not over two hundred yards from the northern
margin of this volcanic rock. "They trend northeast and southwest, and dip at the angle of 54
»r 55 degrees, and in one place present bluff edges favorable for obtaining a sectional view.
A portion of this section, about six hundred feet in length, is represented in the annexed cut.

SECTION OF SANDSTONE STRATA NEAR CAMP.

b a
a Bed of flint, probably fossiliferous. b Silicified stems of plants.

The strata consist of coarse-grained, light-colored sandstones, containing pebbles and layers
of conglomerate, made up of fragments of granite and volcanic rocks of various shades of texture
and color. Some of the pebbles are red, and others have a delicate lilac tint, with numerous
imbedded crystals of white feldspar. _

At the point marked (a) in the figure there is a thin bed of rock containing small fragments
or masses of dark flint, probably fossiliferous. A short distance from this, at the point marked
(b), a bed, five or six feet thick, appears, which is filled with silicified organizations similar to
those found in the boulder on Posuncula river. (See Chap. IV.) This bed was almost wholly
formed of the fossils; they were of various sizes and thickly pressed together.! This stratum
was succeeded by one of dark flint, three feet thick, beyond which the coarse sandstone again
appeared. This sandstone does not present any distinct evidences of metamorphism, but it is
more compact and consolidated than other outcrops farther removed from the intruded rocks.
The trend of the outcrops of fossiliferous flint did not correspond with that of the strata of the
higher part of the outcrop; it was more northerly, probably being less than 25° east of north.
The dip, also, although greatly obscured and not favorably shown, appeared to be different,
being at a greater angle, nearly vertical, or inclined slightly to the west. It is possible that
the strata in this outerop dip in two directions, forming a synclinal axis; but, as it was not
possible to determine this during the short time in which they were examined, they are repre-
sented in the section as dipping in the same direction.

During our stay at this camp two bears were seen, and one came nearly to the spring to
drink, but, seeing one of the party, hastily retreated through the bushes.

October 4.—On returning to the Tejon, through the Cañada, the rocks were more thoroughly
examined, and the valley of the pass was followed, instead of traversing the hills near the salt
lake. An outcrop of sandstone along the trail, and about two miles from the camp, is chiefly

! Nearly all the specimens from this bed were lost.
TE

۱۳ Qc NERES EA I LA i.

bad Se AEE tsm
SEG or ae | E o ae zi T

50 GEOLOGY.

composed of the debris of granite and similar rocks. Some included masses or boulders resemble
sandstone. The trend is about north and south; dip westward 50°. These strata are soft and
wear away rapidly where they are exposed. The outcrops of sandstone, near the two small
ponds, were again observed with the same result as before—dip north at an angle of 40 or 50
degrees.

'T'he intrusive rock or dyke was found to extend towards the summit and at the base of the
high granitic hills on the north side. Ridges of limestone, white and crystalline, were also
found at the summit, and the trail passes between two of them. There is much debris of this
limestone scattered about, and among it I found masses of a black ore, which attracts the needle
strongly, and is probably ordinary magnetite or magnetic iron ore ; it, however, does not exhibit
cleavage, or break like the ore. The outcrop of this ore was found on the top of the ridge,
and is about three feet thick, trending nearly east and west; dip nearly vertical; limestone
bounds it on each side. From this point the trail descends rapidly to a dry water-course,
extending nearly north and south, or towards the small salt lake called Casteca Lake.

Strata, probably Tertiary.—Passing along the dry channel towards the north, we found the
hills on the left to consist of horizontal strata, exposed in many places, high up and inaccessible,
by slides or ravines cut by the rain. These exposures revealed the presence of several colors
in the strata—yellow, bluish, green, and other tints. "They seemed to be chiefly marls or clays;
and very soft. A thickness of two or three hundred feet, at least, was visible.

October 5.—Encamped last night at the ‘ bear camp,” (as we have called the camp where
the inscription in memory of Peter Le Beck occurs,) and this morning left for the Tejon. Ad-
ditional observations were made upon the geology along the trail, but no outcrops of sandstone,
similar to that containing the fossils picked up at the entrance of the Cañada, could be found.’

1 Further observations on the geology of the Cañada de las Uvas will be found in Chapter XV.

-

4 NISVH

JA Nd ALOE)

CHAPTER VI.

TEJON TO THE GREAT BASIN AND PASS OF SAN FRANCISQUITO--
PASS OF SAN FRANCISQUITO TO THE MOJAVE RIVER.

TEJON pass.—GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC ROCKS.—SLOPE OF THE BASIN.— YUCCA TREES.—TERTIARY.—LOST MOUNTAINS.—
SPRING. 一 PoRPHTRY. 一 SPRING RESORTED TO BY INDIANS.—HORNS OF THE MOUNTAIN SHEEP.—DRY LAKE-BED OF CLAY.—
GRANITE FORMING LOST MOUNTAINS.—TRANSVERSE CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS FORMING THE SOUTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE

SLATES—GOLD.—SAN FRANCISQUITO PASS TO THE MOJAVE RIVER.—Cow CAMP—HORNBLENDE AND MICA sLATE.—HILLs
OF HORIZONTAL STRATA.—FERTILE VALLEYS.—SLOPE OF THE GREAT BASIN.—PLANTS.—MOJAYE RIvER.—GRANITIC AND
METAMORPHIC ROCKS.—ÄLLUVIUM.

TEJON TO THE GREAT BASIN AND THE PASS OF SAN FRANCISQUITO.

On the 10th of October I accompanied Lieutenant Williamson on his trip through the Great
Basin towards the Mojave river. The wagons and the main body of the Expedition had been
sent forward by. way of the Canada de las Uvas, and were to wait in one of the grassy valleys
near the Pass o ES Francisquito.

We travelled th hrough the Tejon Pass, and a fine opportunity was thus presented for repeat-
ing and comparing the observations upon its geology previously made. Granitic and metamor-
phic rocks were the only formations visible, except a thick accumulation of rudely stratified
drift or detritus, which rests in the bottom of the valley and is cut by the channel of the creek
at one side, parallel with the pass, and by side ravines from the high ridges. At the summit, a
fine view of the bare and arid surface of the Great Basin was obtained. The level surface of a
dry lake, or extensive pond, was plainly visible, and most persons would have regarded it as a
sheet of water. The range of mountains bounding this part of the basin on the south, and
separating it from tpe Pacific slope, were also in full view, and could be traced westward for a

ia m ine a direction nearly at right angles to the Sierra Nevada, forming a
i with the southern end of the Sierra at the Cañada de las Uvas. Their

"m i NEE dos the coil alas the Basin, following the wagon road,
or trail, and not 1 1 ə ravine which was surveyed a few weeks before. Most of the rocks were hid
from view by the soil, but those that appeared at the surface were similar to the outcrops in the
ravine, which, indeed, is but a short distance further south. Encamped at a spring on the hill-
side among some oak trees. The vegetation is not so dense on this side of the mountains as
the other. Temperature at 7 P. M., 56°; at 9 P. M., 54°.

October 11.—' Temperature at daylight 49°. The night was cold. On reaching the lower
hills, near the margin of the broad slope of the Basin, a succession of outcrops of granitic and
metamorphie rocks was passed. Portions of the exposures resembled the micaceous granite of

nn Zen | E en

52 GEOLOGY.

the summit ; but beds of a hard, compact, and slaty rock, composed chiefly of hornblende and
black mica, were found to alternate with it. One of these hard beds greatly resembled a trap-
pean rock, being black and very dense. Veins of carbonate of lime were found traversing it
irregularly, looking as if they had been intruded. The mineral was not lining fissures, but
formed a part of the rock. Ridges of white limestone were found in the vicinity.

The slope of the Basin is a broad, gently inclined plain, reaching out with a nearly uniform
descent for several miles without any obstruction. The creek flowing out from the ravine of
the pass on the east side has cut a long valley in this slope, extending for several miles below
its general surface. We travelled in this valley ; and the view on each side was bounded by
banks, of nearly uniform elevation, looking like terraces. These banks were from fifty to one
hundred feet high, the elevation decreasing towards the lower part of the valley. The width
of the valley varies from one-eighth of a mile, or less, to half a mile. Occasional exposures of
horizontal or gently inclining strata could be seen, but they were much obscured by the talus
and earth broken from the sides and forming a slope to the bank. No satisfactory section could
be made, nor even the lithological characters of the beds determined. The upper portions of
the slope are undoubtedly formed of loose and irregularly stratified sand and gravel, derived
from the elevated ridges and caiions of the mountains, and spread out upon the slope as if they
had been laid down under the sea, or were formed by its action into a broad, gently shelving
beach.

It is probable that Tertiary strata are exposed along this channel in the slope, but I did not
succeed in finding any organic remains indicative of the age of the strata. The vegetation in
the valley was remarkable and extraordinary in its appearance, consisting entirely of the
straight trunks of the yucca, which grew very thickly in several places, and at a distance looked
like bands of Indians. The leaves are about as strong and sharp as a bayonet, and it is com-
monly called the bayonet tree. A view of the valley and these yucca trees is given in Chapter
XVI, View XI. By ascending from the bed of the little creek to the top of the banks border-
ing the valley, it was found that the channel was merely a groove, if it may be so called, in
the broad slope of the Basin, and on receding from it for a short distance it became invisible,
and its existence would not be suspected ; the country seemed an unbroken plain.

Several miles towards the north, hills of horizontal strata of clay and sand were visible, and
they looked like the formation along Ocoya creek. These hills are near the entrance to Tah-ee-
chay-pah Pass, and they are probably Tertiary.

Lost Mountains.—The ridges and mountains which were visible from the summit of the Tejon,
and which diversify the surface of the Basin, do not appear to form continuous ranges, but are
isolated, standing apart, and separated by broad slopes. The nearest hill of this description
appeared to be about ten miles distant, and we travelled towards it. The surface of the plain
was gravelly and not covered by grass, but here and there an isolated and dried tuft called
‘bunch grass’’ could be found, and was much desired by the mules. A great variety of thorny
shrubs was also found, and yuccas standing alone at intervals gave a peculiar aspect to the
scene.

The peculiarly arid and desert-like surface gave us little reason to expect to find springs of
water, and yet it was reported by the Indians that they could be found about the lost mountains.
After travelling about eight miles north-east from the foot-hills of the Sierra at the Tejon, the
surface became gently undulating, and a green spot could be seen about a mile from the base
of the first lost mountain. This proved to be a fine spring, surrounded by a thick growth of

LOST MOUNTAINS—SPRINGS—M 0 C ROCKS. 53

grass. This grass formed a circle about the water nearly thirty feet in diameter, and grew so
thick and long that the ground was completely hid from view. The water was also partly
overshadowed by a shrub. The surface about the spring was slightly elevated so as to form a
mound, the water being in the centre. This elevation may have been formed by earth and sand
raised up from below by the water, or the moist, grassy surface may have retained sand or dust
blown about by the wind. The roots of the grass and the decaying stalks have also promoted
this accumulation. Temperature of the water 64°, air 909, 1 p.m. The surface, for several
hundred feet around, gave indications of the presence, at no great distance below, of strata of
clay: these, perhaps, have forced the water above the surface. No good exposure of the beds
was found, the superficial covering of gravel and sand being very thick and hiding them from
view. The rocks composing the ridge were not exposed at the spring, but were over a mile
distant. On leaving the spring to pass further east, we did not pass sufficiently near these rocks
to determine their character satisfactorily; but the fragments which had been washed down
upon the slope consisted of porphyry and dense agate-like masses, delicately banded or striped
likejasper. In some fragments the layers resembled stratification.

About six miles beyond the first spring we found a second, on the slope of another ridge.
We encamped at this spring about sunset, and there was little opportunity to examine the
rocks, which rose up in long linear outcrops around. They seemed to form a series of narrow
ridges; and between them, at one point, there were appearances of compact and very hard
horizontal strata. "The general trend of the mountain is N. 25? W. (magnetic.)

October 12.—At daylight the thermometer indicated a temperature of 40°, and for the water
of the spring 60°. On the further slope of the mountain another long line of outerops was
observed, the trend being N. 50? W. ; the exposure was, however, on a slope, and the trend
may be parallel with the outcrop noted yesterday evening. The rocks were very peculiar, and
so different from any commonly known that itis difficult to describe them. A great part of
them were very hard and chert-like, but had the color of serpentine. Every step brought me
to phenomena which defied immediate explanation, and not only excited great interest and
curiosity but deep regret that it was impossible to devote more than a few minutes of the early
morning to their examination. It is most probable that erupted rocks occur here in connexion
with metamorphosed strata of several colors. At the north of this ridge, and at the.distance of
two or three miles, we saw the exposed edges of strata in the sides of other ridges. The strata
appeared to be nearly horizontal, and were variously colored, red and white, looking as if they
were formed of clay.

The only green vegetation about the spring was a margin of grass, about three yards wide ;
and the water lay exposed to the full glare of a scorching sun.

This spring had evidently been long resorted to by the bands of predatory Indians who
formerly made constant inroads upon the settlements of the Pacific slope, and drove off horses
and cattle. Bones and skulls of horses lay around the margin of the spring—relics of the
feasts that had been enjoyed by the successful thieves. We also found the large horns of the
mountain sheep lying on the ground. i

We continued our journey eastward from the camp with considerable rapidity, and during the
day passed along the base of a ridge which is composed of erupted rock of a red or chocolate-
' brown color, and is porphyritic. It was completely bare of vegetation, and the highly-colored
cliffs rising above the arid surface presented a desolate volcanic appearance under the rays of
an unclouded sun. A striped or belted character was distinctly presented by the greater part

s
j;
1
:
A
ES
:
A
1
:
x
a
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3
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1

54 GEOLOGY. i

of this rock, the lines being very near together and generally of different colors. It is com-
pact and porphyritic; the crystals disseminated in it being small and white, resembling feld-
spar. i

After passing this ridge, we travelled for several miles on the surface of the dry lake which
was visible from the Tejon pass. This consists of a perfectly level and floor-like bed of clay, so
hard that the mules left scarcely any tracks upon it. It extended for miles; and the pellicle
upon the surface being exceedingly fine and polished the distant portions appeared like water,
and the mountains and other objects were reflected as if from a mirror. It reminded me of the
frozen surface of a lake.

At the further extremity of this dry lake, or on the margin of its widest portion—for it
appeared to be prolonged further east and north—we reached another series of lost ridges. As
we approached them, the ground was found to be strewn with a pink gravel, which consisted ot
angular fragments of feldspar of that color, and indicated that the ridges were granitic. This
was found to be the case, the rock being a gray granite, traversed by large veins or masses of
pink feldspar, or granitic veins, in which this feldspar was the predominating constituent,
These veins were so large and numerous in some places that they could easily be mistaken for
the principal rock of the ridge. Their direction appeared to be variable: one had a trend of
N. 36° W.; a second, N. 14° E.; and a third, N. 66° E. TLe granite which is cut by these
veins has an even texture, and contains a large amount of feldspar ; it decomposes into gran-
ular masses, which may be crumbled in the hand. Numerous little peaks were formed by the
projection of limited exposures of granite above the general surface of the Basin, and a corre-
sponding number of little valleys or basins was inclosed by them ; so that the general character
of the surface of the Great Basin was represented in miniature. We traversed a considerable
area among these outcrops of granite, and occasionally found large blocks of it standing out
upon the surface, the surrounding rock being covered from sight by a thin layer of feldspathic
gravel. One of the highest points that we reached presented an almost vertical bluff, five or
six hundred feet high towards the north, and was surrounded on all sides by a regular slope.
This being the most elevated point in that vicinity, we had a fine view of the surrounding
country. On the south, at a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles, we could see the blue
summits of the transverse chain of mountains forming the southern boundary of the Basin;
and on the west the lofty ridges of the Sierra Nevada—the intervening country being a treeless
desert. "Towards the north the eye could roam among countless lost mountains rising like the
waves of the ocean in a storm, presenting a constant succession of peaks, until, by their number,
they appeared to form a continuous range.

Several peaks, at a distance of forty or fifty miles, had a peculiar conical form, having flat-
tened tops, suggestive of volcanoes, but there was no opportunity of verifying such a supposition.
They may be the remnants of elevated plains of sedimentary origin, or of overflows of lava of
basalt. i

We returned from this point towards the first spring, nearest the Tejon Pass, and on the way
back found one or two additional but smaller springs, one of them on the border of the dry
lake at the base of the bluff of porphyritic rocks.

October 13.— We left the spring, and, instead of following our trail back to the Tejon Pass,
struck across the plain of the Basin, in a southerly direction, towards the entrance of the Pass
of San Francisquito. This is in the chain of mountains extending a little south of east from
the Sierra Nevada to the peak of San Bernardino, at the source of the Mojave river. This chain

REESE Rs Sh LAE tt ey aa

BERNARDINO SIERRA-—YUCCA TREE—BRECCIA. 55

appears to be prolonged to the westward of the end of the Sierra Nevada, and forms the south-
ern end of the Tulare valley, perhaps extending to Point Conception on the coast, this being in
the line of trend. The direction of this chain is, therefore, nearly transverse to the general
direction of the Sierra Nevada, and it has already been noted as the transverse chain. Although
this difference in the direction of the two chains is not very apparent to the observer when in
the Cañada de las Uvas, or when travelling southwards from the Tulare valley to Los Angeles
or the San Francisquito Rancho, it becomes very striking when he passes out upon the surface
of the Great Basin, and can view the Sierra Nevada and the transverse chain at the same time.
The Sierra Nevada, when seen from the Basin, appears to extend in a meridional direction and
to be joined by the other chain at right angles. As the peaks and ridges of the transverse
chain are not covered with snow except in the winter, it cannot be included with the Sierra
Nevada, and known under the same name. It is also separated or made distinct from the Sierra
by its direction, and from the ranges called ‘‘ Coast Mountains,” both by position and geological
structure. The rocks composing it are similar to those of the Sierra Nevada, and it should be
regarded as a prolongation of that chain, and not of the Coast Mountains. As the most promi-
nent and well known peak of the transverse chain is named San Bernardino, I shall refer to the
chain in the succeeding descriptions as the Bernardino Mountains or Bernardino Sierra, mean-
ing the east and west ranges of mountains between San Bernardino and the end of the Tulare
valley, or beyond, to the western limit of the granitic rocks.

PASS OF SAN FRANCISQUITO.

The entrance or approach to the Pass of San Francisquito from the surface of the Great Basin
is not marked by any peculiar or striking topographical feature. The outline of the mountains
is very uniform, and not marked by any great depression or high peaks. It is, however, very
probable that a long ridge which intervenes between the Basin and the main ridge of the
mountains hides the full outline from view. The slope of the Basin is very regular, and rises
without any great undulation from the dry lake or hard clay surface at the lowest point of that
part of the Basin to the foot-hills of the pass. This slope is dotted on its upper portion by the
thorny yucca tree, which here and there forms thick clumps or groves, or they stand singly,
rising to the height of a man, and bearing such a close resemblance to men in size and position,
that they often deceive one for a moment when they are viewed from a distance.

Foot-hills of the mountains,—Remarkable brecciated strata of volcanic rocks. —The first hill or
rise of the surface, near the entrance to the pass, stands alone, as it were, about five miles dis-
tant from the main mass of mountains, and is separated from them by a continuation of the
Basin-slope. This hill rises to an altitude of about 300 feet above the slope, and is composed
of highly inclined strata, very regularly stratified, trending north 30? east, with a north-west-
ward dip. The lower parts of the hill are composed of sandstone strata of a light color, but
the higher portions consist of remarkable beds of volcanic materials, regularly stratified, but
dipping with the sandstone. These beds contained porphyries of great beauty, in large blocks
and boulders, all firmly united together.

! For a note explanatory of the use of the word Sierra, see Chapter XI.

56 GEOLOGY.

The following section, representing a thickness of not over five hundred feet, will serve to
indicate the relative positions and dip of the strata :

SECTION NEAR THE PASS OF SAN FRANCISQUITO.

a. Stratum, containing large angular blocks of red and lilac-colored volcanic rocks—trachytes and porphyries.
b. Six to ten feet thick, compact rock, of a vermillion red color.
c. Breccia of small fragments of porphyry, serpentine, and a jaspery rock, imbedded in a white paste or matrix. Thin
ams of opalescent quartz traverse this bed.
d. A rude mixture of large, well rounded, and evidently water-worn boulders of trap rock, porphyry, trachyte, and other
volcanic rocks, of various shades of color and variety of texture.

€. Thin layer of angular fragments of obsidian, eight to ten inches thick.

The strata between the conglomerate and breccia and the layer of obsidian consist of nearly
white, fine-grained sandstone, the strata of which were not, however, fully exposed to view.
The layer of obsidian formed a distinct dark stripe along the base of the series, and was slightly
broken and faulted in several places. :

This was a remarkably interesting and singular accummulation of volcanic material or debris;
and it was a matter of regret that I could not even spend an hour in giving it a detailed and
careful examination, of which it certainly is most worthy, if for no other purpose than to study
the extraordinary beauty of the great variety of volcanic rocks brought together in a manner 0
peculiar. It is possible that the highly inclined condition of the strata can be referred toa
granitic intrusion in the mountains, but I am more disposed to réfer it to some local intrusion of
trap or porphyry’ which was not seen.

Beyond this hill, we crossed several with rounded surfaces, but without seeing any rocks, and
then reached the foot-hills of a granitic ridge trending parallel with the main chain, thus forming
the northern boundary of a long valley. These foot-hills were not much elevated, and although
nearly without timber or brush, are soil-covered, and support a growth of grass, which probably
gives a cheerful green aspect to the surface in the spring and early summer, but which, in the
fall and winter, assumes a sombre, uniform brown, or arid appearance. They have rounded
surfaces, and appear to be formed of sedimentary rocks, although outcrops were not seen. As
we passed over and among them, we came suddenly upon a large herd of antelope, quietly
feeding in one of the depressions and on the hill-sides. There were probably not less than one
hundred and fifty in the herd ; and, as soon as we were discovered, they bounded away most
beautifully, and quickly disappeared over the top of the hill.

Granite.—We passed from the rounded hills to the base of the ridge, which is formed of
granitic or metamorphic rocks. Its surface on the northern side is, however, smooth,
nearly without trees or shrubs. These make their appearance, however, in the little valleys
and depressions, especially where the ground is moist or springs issue. The underlying granite
was not well exposed ; the soil was deep, and only an occasional outcrop was found. The rock,
where seen, was hard and compact, and of a light-gray color. The minerals were disposed in
lines, and the trend was found to be N. 110° W. A broad cliff of this granite, with a bold,
vertical face, near a spring, was covered over with strange hieroglyphic characters, the work of
Indians, probably, many years before. One of these characters was like an anchor in form, and

LAKE ELIZABETH—PASS OF SAN FRANCISQUITO. 57

another appeared to represent a long chain with a ball at one end, surrounded by rays, like our
representations of the sun.

The southern side of this ridge was found to support a sparse growth of timber, and the
opposite heights of the main chain were seen to be thickly covered with a growth of green
chamizal. The arrangement of the mineral of the rock of this ridge, and its entire difference in
appearance from the granite about to be described, have led me to regard it as metamorphic,
and I have so indicated it on the section.

Valley of Lake Elizabeth.—Descending the southern side of the ridge, we passed into the
long valley between it and the main chain. Turning up the valley to the right, we soon
reached the borders of a very beautiful sheet of water—Lake Elizabeth. This valley extends
towards the Cañada de las Uvas, and we found the trail made by the wagons in their passage
from there to the lake. The position of the valley and the lake will be seen by referring to the
small geological map of the Tejon and its vicinity, (Chapter XV,) and to the section of the
Bernardino Sierra. The valley is comparatively narrow and long, and is about 3,300 feet above
the sea. It is well watered, and produces an enormous growth of grass, where herds of deer
delight to congregate, not only for food, but for the shelter from view which the tall grass
affords,

We encamped on the borders of the lake, and during the night the temperature fell to 29°,
and 32° at daylight. Thick ice was formed. It is probable that considerable snow accumulates
in this valley during the winter.

October 13.—We returned on our trail through the valley, about eight miles, to the entrance
of the Pass of San Francisquito. Between the lake and the pass there is a line of hills, of
moderate height, -composed of sedimentary strata, probably horizontal, but which were not
well exposed at any point we passed. These strata are chiefly of coarse sandstone, of a light-
gray color, containing a large amount of the debris of white granite, and, in some places, in
such quantity as to resemble, in composition, granite itself. This same formation extends
through the valley several miles to the eastward, and is probably Tertiary. The ascent'from the
valley of Lake Elizabeth to the summit-level of the pass is short, and no interesting exposures
of rock occur. The underlying formation consists, however, of a white granite, in which white
feldspar or albite, and quartz appear to be the predominating constituents, forming the binary
compound called pegmatite. This rapidly decomposes, and furnishes a rich soil, which sustains
a vigorous growth of chamizal of dwarf oaks on the slopes, and large evergreen oaks in the
valleys and cañons of the south side, where there is more moisture and a greater depth of earth.

The view to the southward, presented from the summit of the pass, is peculiarly beautiful.
The gorge or valley of the pass is almost transverse to the trend of the main chain ; the observer
can thus overlook its subordinate ridges, and from the great elevation see beyond them to other
ranges nearer the Pacific. Perhaps at favorable seasons the ocean itself may be seen in the dis-
tant horizon. The width of the mountain chain at the pass being over twenty miles, the ridges
are seen in succession coming down to the ravine of the pass, becoming more dim and faint in
the distance, until their outlines are blended with the distant haze, resting over the heated val-
leys and plains of the coast-slope. The aspect of the landscape from this point was changed
from that of the Basin not only by a modification of the topography, but by the presence of
vegetation of various kinds, more agreeable to the eye than the strange, thorny plants of the
Basin, with which they contrasted very strongly. We encamped in the evening a-few miles
below the summit, at the side of a spring of good water, bordered by a growth of high rushes,

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58 GEOLOGY.

grass, and aquatic flowers. Our blankets were unrolled under the wide-spreading branches of
an evergreen oak ; its huge trunk, already half burned away by previous camp-fires, served as
our fire-place, and the hollow part above made a perfect chimney. Here, after a day of toil and
fatigue, we enjoyed a hearty supper on choice cuts from a fat buck, and on teal ducks from the |
lake, both provided by the rifle of our friend Ridley, who had accompanied us from the Tejon.

Summit-level of the Pass to the San Francisquito Rancho.—No strata of sandstone or clay were
seen in the neighborhood of our camp near the summit. The white granite appeared to predomi-
nate, and in some places looked like exposures of chalk among the green bushes. The ridges
had gently sloping sides, and, being covered by soil, very few opportunities for examining the
rocks were present.d. In’descending the brook, however, the ravine of the pass becomes more
narrow, and the stream, by its velocity, has cleared away the earth so that the underlying rock
is brought to view. It here loses the peculiar whiteness characteristic of that at the summit,
and is more gray, and assumes a structural character, the minerals being arranged in long par-
allel lines or planes. In some places the rock is syenitic ; in others, mica predominates ; but, in
general, feldspar is the predominant mineral. Considerable quantities of epidote were seen in
‘seams and in coatings upon surfaces of cleavage or divisional planes in the rock. The laminated
structure was highly developed in many places, the rock becoming gneissose. Feldspathic veins
traversing the rock were also noted. It is very probable that the rocks of the lower parts of the
ravine of the pass are metamorphic, while the higher or summit portions are eruptive. I have
given the laminated or gneissose portions a distinct coloring on the section. "The trend of the
rock, nearly three miles below camp, was N. 70° E; and at another place, N. 94° E.; being
conformable to the general direction of the main chain. This part of the pass is more rocky
than the upper portion, and the granitic and metamorphie rocks rise directly from the brook, so
that the trail is confined to its bed.

Sandstone strata.— About six miles from the summit the whole character of the scenery of the
pass changes; the hills are lower and more numerous, and present many abrupt and bold
escarpments. They are of sandstone and conglomerate, probably Tertiary, and are similar in
their appearance to those developed at the base of the Sierra, at the head of the Tulare valley.
The outerops of these sandstones are of great thickness, and they occupy a wide area on the
southern flank of the mountains. They are probably the principal formations between the
mountains and the Pacific. "The planes of stratification are very much bent and folded, and are
in many places raised so as to stand nearly on edge. Natural sections made by the brook are
very numerous, and beautiful exposures of the edges of the strata, standing at almost all angles
with the horizon, are seen on each side. "The outcrops do not exceed three to five hundred feet
in height above the trail, and it was not possible for me to make any satisfactory estimate of
the thickness of the group of beds thus disturbed.

In the rapid observations I was obliged to make I could not connect the numerous flexures
which were indicated by reverse dips. The following trends and dips were observed at several
distant points: !

N. 40? E., dip 709. .. FN. 40? E., dip 70°.
N. 30° E., dip 70°-80°. N. 25? E., dip 15? southeasterly.
N. 10? E., dip 10°.. N. 25? E., dip 65? northwesterly.

The two last A were made on exposures one-eighth of a mile apart, and an anti-
clinal axis was indicated.

1 These results are not corrected for variation.

UPRAISED STRATA—-AURIFEROUS SLATES. 59

These strata consist of alternations of conglomerates, sandstone, and shales, in beds of
variable thickness and order of succession. The color varies from gray to buff-yellow, and
further south to red. The strata are in a semi-consolidated state, and wear away rapidly by
the action of the weather. Beds of hard sandstone were, however, seen, and may, perhaps, be
found in all of the outcrops. These outcrops of sandstone were found on both sides of the trail
for about two miles, and the formation appears to extend northeasterly in a narrow valley between
the granite or metamorphic rocks and a ridge of talcose and micaceous slates rising south of
them.

The extent of this valley, and its position relatively to the pass, will be seen on the small
map of the region, (Map IL.) The outcrops are also represented on the general section of the
Bernardino Sierra, which extends through this pass.

No intruded rocks in the form of dykes or otherwise were found among these upraised strata,
although careful search along the line of exploration was made. As the strata rest immediately
upon the adjacent granite, it at first appears that their disturbance and flexed condition was
produced by its intrusion. I looked in vain for an exposure of the line of junction between the
two formations, neither could I detect any great metamorphism of the sediments, which would
probably have resulted if they had been upraised by the inruption of the contiguous granite.
It is, therefore, probable that the disturbance was produced by some igneous intrusion at a dis-
tance, and not visible along the line of observation. This intrusion may have displaced a
portion of the granite together with the strata. Further explorations must determine to what
agency these strata owe their present position, whether to a granitic intrusion between them
and the Great Basin, or to the inruption of dykes of porphyry, or the approximation of the
ridges of granitic and talcose rocks, between which the flexures are the most bold.

Lower down the creek, in the vicinity of the ridge of talcose slates, (see section,) the sand-
stone formations on the right bank are not so much tilted and bent as higher up in the pass;
consequently they do not form such abrupt and precipitous hills. The valleys become more
broad, and in some places the strata are nearly horizontal. A large quantity of oxide of iron
also enters into their composition, and imparts a red color to some of the beds,

Age of the sandstone strata.— With regard to the age of these strata, I am unable to affirm
positively, but am disposed to regard them as Tertiary. Not a single fossil was found in all the
outcrops, and therefore there is no such evidence of their age. Their resemblance to the strata
at the southern end of the Tulare valley was noted; yet they do not show such a great thick-
ness, nor such thick and firmly consolidated beds.

Ridge of talcose and auriferous slates.—The first distinct outcrop of the talcose and gold-bear-
ing rocks met with south of the Mariposa district is exposed in this pass about nine miles from
- thesummit. Atthis point the brook issues from among the hills of sandstone, and impinges
upon a slate ridge, and afterwards follows the dividing line between it and the sandstones for a
long distance.

These slates form a distinct ridge of several hundred feet in elevation above the bed of the
cañon, trending nearly due east and west, (magnetic, and they can be seen to extend in an
unbroken ridge for several miles eastward. A narrow valley is thus formed between them and
the granite, which is partly occupied by the outcrops of tilted sandstone just described. The
dip of the slate is at an angle of 70° northwards, and is very regular and uniform. The rock
differs somewhat from those generally described as talcose, found in the auriferous region of the
Atlantic States, and also from those seen in Mariposa county. The color is dark gray, passing

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60 GEOLOGY.

into black. The slaty structure is well developed, and the cleavage is facile ; smooth, flat sur-
faces being readily obtained. A fresh cleavage surface presents a silvery lustre, produced by
thin films of mica. The composition of the rock, when critically examined, appears to be
chiefly quartz and mica; the latter being in exceedingly thin films, and never showing broad
plates or cleavable folia. The two minerals are so intimately blended that it is almost impos-
sible to obtain a view of either in an isolated condition. The rock has a strong argillaceous
odor when breathed upon, and portions of it appear to have contained minute disseminated
grains of sulphuret of iron, which, by its decomposition, has left minute stains of sesquioxyde of
iron. Chlorite, or a chrome-green mica, is sparingly distributed in some parts of the rock ;
especially near quartz veins and seams, which abound in all parts of the ridge.

Ina large accumulation of debris, in a cafion leading from the higher part of the ridge, I
found many masses in which tale was a principal ingredient, and was closely associated with
cellular quartz. They were evidently portions of veins that had contained iron pyrites, and
they much resembled specimens from the auriferous slates of North Carolina. The talcose
minerals appeared to be the most abundantly developed in the vicinity of, or in contact with, the
quartz veins. Similar conditions are found in the Carolinas.

This ridge of slate rock is remarkable for its even bedding or stratification. The planes of
bedding are perfectly flat, and without flexures or distortions. The lamine are as thin as paper,
and lie closely together like the leaves of a book; yet the rock is firm and very hard, and thin
plates are not very easily separable. The dip, also, is very regular, at about the same angle,
even at distant points. This dip, being northerly, is towards the main ridge of granite; the
rock, however, does not appear on the opposite side of the valley, adjoining the granite; or if
it does, its structure is entirely destroyed by metamorphic action. It is probable that further
south, between this slate ridge and the valley of the Santa Clara, there is granitic rock, perhaps
eruptive, like that at the summit. This I was not able to verify, as our examination did not
extend to the open valley. I afterwards found granitic and highly metamorphosed rocks in the
lower portions of the new pass adjoining, and this leads me to the conclusion that these auriferous
slates cover the northern flank of a granitic ridge, and dip from it.

Gold.—As the appearance of both the rocks and the quartz veins indicated the presence of
gold, I was induced to make several trials of the earth at favorable points in the bed of the creek.
Several pans of gravel and black sand, from different places, were washed out, without obtain-
ing the **color.'" Iam informed that there are rich placers not far from the rancho of San
Francisquito. These are said to have been worked by Mexicans in 1840, and abandoned in
1849, when the reports of the great discoveries of gold on the Sacramento river were received,
The favorable indications for gold in this vicinity are sufficient to warrant a more thorough and
extended examination than it was possible for me to give.!

It was interesting to observe how completely the direction of the creek was modified by the
ridges of slate. The bends of the stream, instead of being rounded curves, make sudden and
angular turns around the sharp edges of the strata, and flow in nearly straight lines between
these points, conforming to the direction or trend of the rock.

The topographical features and the variations of the scenery, in this pass, change with its

Y Since the above was written, considerable excitement has been produced by the working of placers in this district, on
the Santa Anna river. The accounts have been conflicting and unsatisfactory, but that very considerable deposits of gold
exist is proved beyond doubt. A specimen of this gold, which I have recently received, is in fine, irregular grains, inter-

mediate in size between ordinary scale or river gold and that from the ''dry diggings.” It is of good quality, comparing
favorably with the best gold of the Sierra Nevada gold field. August, 1855.

GOLD OF THE SANTA ANNA—METAMORPHIC SLATE ۱ 61

geology. Thus, starting from the summit, the first four miles of descent is between the hard
granites that rise in rounded edges on either side, and the valley between them is fertile and
well wooded. For the next three miles the granites are more laminated and slaty in their
structure ; tliey offer less resistance to the wearing action of the stream, which has cut a more
deep and narrow channel, and commences to descend abruptly, winding about in a series of
rapids between rocky and angular points of the granite and metamorphic rocks that rise on
each side like walls. Beyond the granite is the belt of sedimentary strata, consisting of sand-
stones and conglomerates. Here the hills are lower, the valleys more numerous and open, and
a view of bold escarpments, formed by the ridges of highly inclined strata, is presented on both
sides. Still lower down the pass, the sandstones are not so much disturbed, and the outlines of
the hills become more curved ; and near the lower outcrop of the auriferous slates, the surface
is gently undulating. The adjoining slates, however, present sharp, angular outlines, cut by
abrupt and rugged valleys. They are also covered with trees, while on the sandstones the
vegetation is thin and diminutive.

SAN FRANCISQUITO PASS TO THE MOJAVE RIVER.

October 15.—After we had completed the survey of the Pass of San Francisquito, we returned
to the narrow, elevated valley of Lake Elizabeth, and turned to rejoin the wagon-train and
escort, which were encamped several miles eastward in a valley where grass and water were
abundant. The continuation of the sandstone hills, already partly described as extending along
the Lake Elizabeth valley, was found on our right for about eight miles. Similar formations
appeared to flank the ridge on the left or north of the trail. Opposite the camping place,
marked 15th on the map, these sandstones and clay strata were visible on the north, and
appeared to separate the valley from the Great Basin, and they were continuous in a series of
low hills for several miles beyond. The debris of micaceous slate, somewhat similar to that
found in the Pass of San Francisquito, was observed in this vicinity ; and soon after, an outcrop
was passed. The rocks have a dark bluish-gray color, and hornblende in long, slender,
imperfectly formed crystals is disseminated throughout some portions, in planes parallel with
the bedding. Quartz veins were also seen. The bedding of the slates has an inclination
towards the north of from 30 to 40 degrees. Two or three miles beyond this outerop we
reached the camp of the main party in the centre of a wet, swampy valley, where the grass and
water was abundant. "The party having killed a wild cow, fresh meat was abundant, and the
camp was afterwards known as the Cow camp. It was about thirteen miles southeasterly from
the entrance to the Pass of San Francisquito.

The hills immediately south of this camp rise to a very considerable elevation, and are, in
fact, the lower ridges of the main chain. They were found to be composed of slaty rocks, simi-
lar to those just described. They assume, by almost insensible gradations, a more granite-like
structure, and feldspar was abundant in small granular masses, invested with micaceous films,
80 that the rock, when broken transversely to the lamination, resembled a fine-grained granular
porphyry. Quartz veins are abundant in this rock, and are generally in narrow seams, very
near together, and preserving parallelism between themselves and the bedding of the rock.

Their trend was taken in several places, and found to be N. 70° E., and the dip S. 75°.
' The resemblance of these rocks to the slates in the Pass of San Francisquito was so striking
that I could not but consider them as connected and of the same formation. There is little

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62 GEOLOGY.

reason to doubt that the outcrops are the prolongation of the metamorphic rocks in the lower
parts of the pass. At that place the trend was nearly east and west, and the dip to the north,
at an angle of 70°. Here we find, first, a northerly dip of 30? to 40° ; and again, further west,
a tread of N. 70° E., with a southerly dip of 75°. The dips are thus reversed, and a great
flexüre of the beds, with the greatest dip towards the south, is indicated. Lieutenant William-
son ascended to the top of the mountain, and states that the rock is mica-slate, similar to the
lower portions I examined.

October 11.— We left the Cow camp, and once more journeyed with the wagons, travelling
eastward along the valley. This is bounded by the low sedimentary hills on the north, but
soon opens out upon the broad slope of the Great Basin. The sandstone hills disappear in a
point; and at this place I was able to make an observation upon the position of the strata,
which, before that time, had been so much concealed by their own debris and soil that no satis-
factory results could be obtained, although I was disposed to regard them as horizontal. These
strata were thickly bedded, and consisted of the debris of granite and pebbles of dark porphyritie
rocks. They are not horizontal, but dip. northwards, at an angle of 75°. Their trend was
N. 85° W. It is probable that this is only a local uplift, and that the hills further west are
composed of horizontal strata.

About six miles from the Cow camp we found the commencement of a broad area of low and
rounded hills, of sedimentary formations, which are in all probability the extension of the same
deposits found throughout the valleys we have been travelling in since leaving Lake Elizabeth
and the Pass of San Francisquito. This is also the vicinity of the entrance to a new pass dis-
covered by Lieutenant Williamson during our stay at the last camp. The sedimentary hills
rise above the general slope of the Basin, and extend for two or three miles or more opposite the
pass, appearing to fill out a bend or depression in the mountains. At the western side of this
body of hills, the strata of one of the ridges are distinctly inclined about 25°, and consist of
alternations of white, red, and greenish clays. The white consists chiefly of decomposing
granitic sand. "There are no hard rocks in these hills ; all the strata are soft, and can be easily
cut through. They are bare of trees, and had a barren, forbidding aspect. They much
resembled the tertiary hills of Ocoya creek.

Our course lay around the base of these hills at the north, and thus was out upon the
broad slope of the Great Basin. Before passing, however, to a notice of the phenomena
observed there, a retrospective glance should be given to the peculiar and fertile character of the
strip of country at the base of the north side of the main chain of the Bernardino Sierra. This
fertile strip consists of the chain of longitudinal valleys connecting by their ends, formed by
outlying low ridges, either of granite or sedimentary hills, at a short distance from the main
ridges of the Sierra. Nearly all these valleys, extending over a distance of more than forty
miles, or from the center of the Cafiada de las Uvas to Williamson's Pass, are adapted to culti-
vation. Grass grows luxuriantly in most of them, and the soil is deep and rich. There is no
lack of water, which, though not found in running streams of any size, is abundantly furnished
by springs and ponds. It is very probable that the temperature of these high valleys is low
during the winter, and that considerable snow accumulates in them. While we were encamped
at different points, ice nearly half an inch thick was several times formed.

About fifteen miles beyond the entrance to Williamson's Pass, we travelled over low hills,
composed of sand and gravel and the debris of granite and metamorphic rocks. Descending 2 *
narrow valley among these hills, where there was a great quantity of sage bush of unusual size,

GRANITE—SLOPE OF THE GREAT BASIN— VEGETATION. 63

we reached Johnson’s river, a powerful and rapidly flowing mountain stream, a few yards wide.
The water was very pure and cold. The channel or bed of the river was filled with rounded
blocks of granite, syenite, and metamorphic rocks, probably all derived from the ridges among
which the stream flows. No basaltic or trappean rock was seen.. Some of the syenites were,
however, very compact and fine-grained. We encamped on the eastern side of the stream;
nearly opposite us, there were outcrops of granite, light colored, and decomposing rapidly. It
was found to be traversed „by great veins of quartz and feldspar. Mr. Ridley, who had
trävelled among the lower ridges between our last camp and this river, brought me several
specimens of agate and carnelian which he had picked up.

Johnson's river to the Mojave, October 18.—A trial was made of the sand along the margin of
the stream for gold. Several pans-full were washed out without finding the color. Black sand
and garnets were very abundant. "The send” and gravel were, however, not taken from the bed-
rock ; this could not be reached in the short time before starting from camp in the morning.
No slate rocks, such as usually bear gold, were seen. Mr. Smith obtained a large peice of white
limestone from the top of the hill on the right of camp. This hill and others in the vicinity
appeared to be formed of sedimentary rocks in horizontal strata, probably Tertiary.

The route of the Expedition from this river was in a direction a little south of east, over the
broad slope of the Great Basin, being below the foot-hills of the mountains, and yet only a few
miles distant from them. The slope was broad and gentle, extending for nearly fifteen miles
from the mountains without its surface being broken by a ridge or diversified by trees of any
magnitude. When looking in advance, the inclination was very evident, and opposite the Cajon

Pass there seemed to be a swell of the ground, so that the outline of the descent was brought.

very distinctly into view ; its inclination was approximately obtained by the clinometer, and the
angle was found to be between five and seven degrees. Near the mountains the surface was
uneven, and furrowed by the channels of streams, then entirely dry ; but lower down, all these
channels were obliterated, or became so shallow as not to offer any impediment to the passage
of the wagons. In the banks of these dry streams the nature of the materials composing the
slope was fully exposed, and generally appeared unconsolidated and rudely stratified, in many
places much resembling ordinary till or drift.

The higher parts of the slope are covered with a thin growth of the yucca, or Spanish bayonet
tree, occupying a belt three or four miles in width. They are interspersed with cedars, which
grow to be large shrubs or bushes, and do not form high branching trees. The trunks are,
however, quite large—some being over a foot in diameter, and the limbs spread over a wide
surface, but the height rarely exceeds twelve or fifteen feet. Sage bushes, (Artemisias,) and many
small thorny shrubs, grew thickly together in many places between the cedars. Bunch-grass was
also common, but was entirely brown and dry.

About sunset a small running stream was unexpectedly found. It was not bordered by high
banks, nor were there any trees on its borders. It seemed to be a temporary flow from the
mountains. After resting at this point until late in the evening, the journey was resumed by
moonlight. The air was slightly charged with moisture, and at first the stars were but dimly
seen. The course lay, as before, over the unbroken slope parallel with the mountains. The
party in advance lighted up their trail at intervals, by piling dry shrubs and bunch-grass
against the windward sides of the cedar bushes and igniting them. They produced broad sheets
of flame, and made excellent beacon fires. As the day began to dawn in the east, and the out-
lines of the mountains beyond the Mojave river became visible, we reached the old Spanish trail,

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64 GEOLOGY.

now better known as the Mormon road, leading from the Great Salt Lake to San Bernardino
and Los Angeles. No outcrops of rock w re found between Johnson's river and this point,
The earth was gravelly, and composed in great part of the debris of granitic rocks. The road
was followed over similar soil down to the foot of the slope at the Mojave river, nearly twenty
miles from the mountains at the Cajon Pass.

Mojave river, August 20.—The Mojave river at our camp was a shallow stream flowing in a
bed of sand, no rocks nor even large gravel being visible. A considerable quantity of black
sand was noticed on the dry, rippled surface of the bank, and several pans of the coarsest sand
were washed out without finding any gold. I crossed the river to the right bank, and found
outerops of granite and metamorphic rock, and the left bank, a little below the depot camp,
appeared to consist of horizontal strata of clay and sand, probably Tertiary.

The granitic or metamorphic rocks rise abruptly from the river, as represented in the annexed
section, the tertiary or sedimentary rocks forming a low bluff on the opposite side.

SECTION AT THE CAMP, MOJAVE RIVER.

m
m. Slaty or metamorphic. g. Granite traversed by veins.

Slaty or metamorphic granite traversed by veins.—The outcrop nearest the river had a distinct
stratified appearance, and at a short distance looked like vertical strata of roofing slates. The
color was black and glistening ; a fracture of the rock, however, developed a light-colored
interior, and showed it to be a fine-grained syenitic granite. It was found to contain small
crystals of light-colored mica and small garnets. It is hard and compact, and the mass has à
rhombic cleavage. It owes its slaty appearance to its highly developed structural character,
and much resembles a belt of highly laminated, but compact and crystalline, rock observed in
the Tejon Pass. These outcrops have a distinct trend of north 5? east, dip 85° west; another
observation gave north 8? east, dip vertical. | pa

Beyond this slaty or metamorphosed rock is a granular, gray granite, passing into syenitie
granite. This rock forms the great mass of the ridge, and I did not detect any linear arrange
ment of the minerals. It is traversed by great numbers of feldspathic veins, which show 8
general parallelism, extending in the same direction as the slaty ridges, and dipping both east
and west.

A large part of this ridge is covered by huge blocks and masses of granite, that lie piled one
upon another in utter confusion, and are completely impassable. "There are no trees or shrubs
of any great size. It will be observed from the figure that the slope of the Basin extends high

up on the east side of the granite ridge, while it has been completely cut away by the river 02
the west.

The vegetation along the bottom land of the Mojave is chiefly cottonwood and willows.
The grass is, however, good and abundant, and there are probably many places along the
stream where the alluvial lands could be successfully cultivated. The presence of large qual”
tities of sand on the low lands near our camp indicated that the river frequently rose ío?
considerable height, 80 as to overflow a large surface, and render it unfit for cultivation.

CHAPTER VII.

MOJAVE RIVER, BY WILLIAMSON’S PASS, TO SAN FERNANDO AND LOS
ANGELES—LOS ANGELES TO SAN BERNARDINO—CAJ ON PASS.

MoJAvE TO WILLIAMSON’S PASS.—GRANITE.—JOHNSON’S RIVER.—COPPER ORE.—INCLINED STRATA OF SANDSTONE.—COTTON-
WOOD CREEK.—ERUPTED ROCKS AND AGATE.—Cow CAMP.—ROUNDED HILLS.—BRECCIA OF VOLCANIC ROCKS.—ERUPTED DYKE
OF PORPHYRY.—GRANITE AT THE SUMMIT OF WILLIAMSON’S PAss.— TRAP DYKE.—VEIN OF COPPER ORE.— WHITE GRANITE.—
SANDSTONES AND CONGLOMERATE UPRAISED.—BLUFF OF SANDSTONE.—GRAPHIC SYENITE.— IRON ORE.— METAMORPHIC
Rocks.—Low HILLS OF SANDSTONE.—SAN FRANCISQUITO RANCHO.—ALLUVIUM OF THE SANTA CLARA.—SANDSTONE.—SAN
FERNANDO PASS.—TERTIARY FossILs.—FiG TREES AND PRICKLY PEAR.—SAN FERNANDO VALLEY AND MISSION.—SANDSTONE
HILLS, BETWEEN SAN FERNANDO AND LOS ANGELES.—Los ANGELES.—BITUMEN SPRINGS.—VINEYARDS AND WINE.—SAN

TIONS.—HorT SPRINGS.—ANALYSIS OF THE DEPOSIT FROM THE SPRINGS.— BROOK OF HOT WATER.—SPRING AT THE MOJAVE
CAMP.—SOIL CONTAINING SALT.—CAJON PASS.— UPRAISED STRATA OF SANDSTONE, PROBABLY TERTIARY.—GRANITE.—LIME-
STONE.—V EGETATION.

After having remained in camp for two days to recruit the fatigued animals, a party was
organized by Lieutenant Williamson to survey the new pass that had been found by him ; and
after traversing it and reaching the valleys of the coast, to proceed along the base of the moun-
tains (Bernardino Sierra) to the Pueblo de los Angeles, thence to the valley of San Bernardino,
and through the Cajon Pass back to the Great Basin and the Mojave camp.

The party thus organized consisted of Mr. Isaac W. Smith, C. E., Dr. Heerman, Mr. Koppel,
and the writer, together with several men. We took a single wagon to carry the instruments
and odometer.

We left the Mojave on the morning of the 21st October, and RAS over the slope of the
Great Basin towards the mountains, reaching the little stream east of Johnson's river in the
afternoon, where we encamped for the night. Distance, 27 miles.

October 22.—Left camp for Johnson's river. Instead of following the party over the slope,
by the trail we had before made, I went up to the base of the mountains and skirted them west-
ward. Outcrops of granite were abundant. It was fine-grained, white or light gray, and
contained little hornblende. Lines of structure were very distinct, and yet the rock was exceed-
ingly compact and massive. The trend was found at one point to be about N. 10? E., the dip
being 90° vertical. The cafions leading from the chain were found to be very steep aud rocky.
Some large masses of granite were observed that had evidently been transported down the
cations, but they did not extend far from the mouth of the ravines.

We reached the banks of Johnson's river in the afternoon, and camped lower down the
stream than the site of our previous camp, but between high banks of the strata of the slope ot
the Basin, consisting probably partly. of drift or detritus overlying Tertiary. The stream at this
place was bordered with ** sycamore,'' or the plane tree, and other deciduous trees in great variety,
some of them being different from any with which I was familiar; and the water was clear and
cold, running rapidly over a bed filled with well rounded pebbles and boulders of syenite and

‘granite, as before observed. A short distance below the point at which we encamped, the river

9F

Wt

pe E MGE E y
X ICT Pg eh ear Cro Hp EN E

66 GEOLOGY.

sinks away in the sand, and there is nothing on the broad semi-desert slope to indicate its
existence.

We were greatly refreshed by a bath in this beautiful stream, and a night’s rest on the clean,
hard sand of its borders ; and on the morning of the 23d left for the entrance to Williamson's
Pass, taking the same trail that had been broken by the wagons of our train a few days pre-
viously.

Copper ore.— About seven and a half miles beyond Johnson's river, some small boulders, cov-
ered by greenish stains, were observed in a small, dry arroyo, which was apparently formed by
the washes during rains. It was soon ascertained that these stains were produced by carbonate
of copper, and I concluded to trace these fragments to their source. At the expense of being
““late at camp,”’ the parent source was found in an isolated ridge of mica slate and granite
about two hundred fect high, and not far from the main ridges of the Sierra. The ore consists
of iron and copper pyrites in a quartzose gangue, and has a direction nearly N. 75? E. The
upper or outcropping portions are much decomposed, and stained by oxyde of iron and "o
of copper.!

Cottonwood creek—Sandstone strata.—From the copper-ore locality, I passed along the foot-
hills, and followed up the dry bed of a stream towards the mountains. It was evident that at
certain seasons a very large body of water ran there, as the channel was strewed with large
rounded masses of rock, which were mostly of granite, and were piled together in confusion. A
grove of cottonwood trees was also visible some distance up the chaunel, and contrasted strongly
with the brown and barren-looking hills on each side. On nearing this grove, indications of
water were observed, and several deep pools were found at the base of an almost vertical wall of
saı dstone strata, which were inclined at a high angle, and surmounted by layers of drift-sand
and gravel, as shown in the accompanying figure.

SANDSTONE STRATA OVERLAID BY DRIFT.

It was evident that the water was much higher at certain seasons, and that it flowed with &
strong current, it having worn caverns and deep hollows in the strata. These beds consisted
principally of the debris of granite, and they were of a light color, with a shace of red. The
materials were coarse, and no indications of organic remains were seen.

This stream was afterwards named Cottonwood creek, from the abundance of cottonwood 1 near
its sources.

Leaving the valley of the creek, I crossed over two, rounded, meta hills, and passed
westward to another valley or dry ravine, which was supposed to lead to the new pass. Finding
the track of the wagon, which had passed before me, I ascended this valley to the mountains,
and rejoined the party. After climbing up steep ridges and cañons in all directions, and not
finding a place where the wagon could be taken over, we concluded that we had not ascended
the rigbt ravine, and were not at the pass which Lieutenant Williamson had found. We also
ascertained by the barometers that we were at an altitude of over four thousand feet, which was
much higher than Lieutenant Williamson had represented the summit of the new pass to be, he

EUR more particular description of this locality and the ore, see Chapter XX, on metals and ores. Speciment are in
Nos. 214, 215, 216.

VOLCANIC ROCKS—WILLIAMSON’S PASS. 67

having taken its elevation approximately by the aneroid barometer. We were obliged to spend
the night there without water or grass for the mules. The party during the day had met Lieu-
tenant Parke and Mr. Preuss on their way to the Mojave camp, after having finished a recon-
noissance in the vicinity of Tah-ee-chay-pah pass.

Erupted rocks and agates, October 24.—The mistake that we had made, gave me an opportu-
nity to examine the rocks in our vicinity the next morning ; they were found to be principally
dark colored, erupted, volcanic rocks, containing an immense quantity of the most beautiful
agates in pear-shaped masses, and in mammillary coatings upon the fissures and cavities of the
rock, The dry beds of the little water-courses were also strewn with the agates that had become
detached by the decomposition of the rock. Most of these specimens were milk-white, and were
delicately shaded with parallel lines; many were hollow, and the inner surfaces were lined with
quartz crystals. These cavities were generally at one side of the specimen; the agate being

thickest on the side that was lowest at the time of its formation. ‘I'he mammillary crusts and .

coatings along the fissures were of various colors—red, brown, and greenish. Their surfaces
were smooth, and possessed a high natural polish.

Where the small rounded masses of agate had fallen ont of the rock, they left numerous
cavities, that give it a vesicular appearance. A peculiar green crust was very common on some
parts of the rock, and at a little distance it looked like carbonate of copper; but it does not con-
tain a trace of that metal.

The position of the locality, with respect to the pass we were seeking, will be seen on the
map. I have marked the name Agate creek opposite the stream, as the abundance of this
mineral in its bed was its distinguishing characteristic.

We retraced our steps, and, after gaining the broad slope of the basin, travelled to the Cow
camp, where there-was plenty of grass and water for the refreshment of the fatigued animals.
Having found the entrance to the pass, we returned to it the next day and commenced the
survey.

WILLIAMSON’S PASS.

The position of this pass, and its direction, will be seen upon the general map and on the
geological map of the Tejon and vicinity, Map II, Chapter XV. The pass extends from the
Great Basin to the Rancho of San Francisquito, which is in one of the valleys of the Pacific
‘slope. Its entrance on the Great Basin is near the meridian of 118° and latitude 34° 30’, and
its direction a little south of west; the distance through the mountains from the Great Basin
side to the open valley of the Santa Clara river is about 20 miles. The altitude of the summit
level is 3,164 feet above the sea."

In the description of the sandstone bordering the lower portions of the Pass of San Franeis-
quito, it is stated that along valley extends in a nearly northeast direction towards the Great
Basin, between the ridge of talcose or chloritic slates and the granite. In travelling at the base of
the mountains on the Great Basin slope, between the Pass of San Francisquito and the entrance
to Williamson's Pass, outerops of slate of a similar character were observed along the trail,
forming hills on the right, at a point about half-way between the two passes. By inspection
of the map, it will be seen that this point is in the line of the northeastern prolongation of the
outcrop in the Pass of San Francisquito ; and I have therefore concluded that the range is
continuous between the two points. This is also the point at which the long valley occupied

1 See the tables in Lieutenant Williamson's Report.

. 68 GEOLOGY.

by sandstone strata reaches nearly to the sedimentary formations of the Great Basin, being
separated from them by a narrow, intervening ridge of granite or slates. There is here a
geological indication of a good pass, but the crest or ridge of granite was not explored.
Williamson’s Pass may be considered as formed by a similar and parallel valley on the oppo-
site side of the slate ridge and the granite which adjoins it. The presence of low hills,
composed of sedimentary rocks, near the entrance to the pass has already been noted. Our
route from the Cow camp to the pass was further south than before; and we travelled among
the hills and not around them. They appear to be principally composed of light clays, sand,
pebbles, and debris of granitic rocks; all being of a light color, and showing an abundance of
pink feldspar. Gypsum, in thin seams, was also found in some of the lower strata.

Breccia of volcanic rocks.—A narrow valley intervenes between the low hills and the volcanic
or eruptive rocks, which form the lower ridge of the main Sierra. Before reaching the intrusive
rock, I passed thick strata of breccia, composed of angular blocks of porphyritic volcanic rocks,
of various colors, principally red, brown, and a chocolate color. These blocks were closely
impacted, and varied in size from two or three inches to ten and twelve inches in diameter.
The strata dip at an angle of 20°, inclining towards the northeast.

Dyke of erupted rock.—The volcanic rock adjoining this breccia forms a considerable ridge,

‚which is crossed by the trail at nearly a right angle. This rock presents a variety of characters
and colors. A large portion of it is compact and dark-green, not unlike ordinary trap rock;
other parts are porphyritic, being composed of a compact base of a chocolate-brown color, filled
with minute white crystals of feldspar. The brown parts of the ridge are also more or less
striped, and filled with long, parallel, and thin lines of different shades of colors, giving the mass
a ribboned and veined appearance. Various shades of red were also observed in different places;
and both the reddish and brown portions are porphyritic. The darker portions of this ridge
were nearest to the breccia above described. The surfaces of fissures were more or less covered
with a dark-green coating, which appeared like a crust of carbonate of copper, but does not
contain a trace of that metal. Some of the fissures also contained imperfect crystallizations of
a zeolitic mineral, in radiated and stellar forms—probably stilbite. Agates of various sizes and
forms were also seen in the beds of the streams.

It is very possible that this erupted ridge consists of more than one intrusion ; the differences
found in the rock at different places may be regarded as an indication of it. The ridge, con-
sidered as a whole, may be called a compact, fine-grained porphyry. It appears to have a
width or thickness of nearly 2,000 feet, and to extend in a southwesterly direction, nearly
parallel with the valley of the pass.

The volcanic or eruptive rock, seen on the 22d, further east, at the sources of Agate creek, was,
in many respects, similar to this outcrop; if this be regarded as the continuation of the intru-
sion, a very sudden turn and change of its direction exists, which it is difficult to explain.
Further observations are required to determine the exact position, direction, and form of the
ridges, which I cannot claim to have faithfully represented on the map, it having been impos-
sible to extend my observations far beyond the line of the survey. It may, perhaps, be found
that there are two or more erupted dykes.

Granite of the summit.—At the summit of the pass the hills on each side are of granite; which
is nearly white and of a fine grain. "The mass is compact and tough, and has a sub-crystalline,
vitrified appearance, as if it had been partly fused. Some of the surfaces of the broken frag-

ments were observed to be drusy with minute quartz crystals. The valley or gap between the

COPPER ORE— WHITE GRANITE—IGNEOUS ROCK. 69

granite hills at the summit appears to be filled in, to a depth of 100 feet or more, by an
accumulation of gravel or detritus of granitic rocks. "The same formation skirts the foot of the
opposite high hills, extending at their base in a long terrace. This is on the south side of the
long southwest and northeast valley of the pass, which is reached from the summit by an
abrupt descent of about one hundred feet. The terrace has an even, sloping outline, and is
evidently the remnant of a slope that originally extended throughout the valley between the
mountains, and filled in between them, in the same way that drift materials of the slope of the
Great Basin now fill the valleys and cover the irregularities of the underlying granite and
other rocks.

Trap dyke.—A short distance from the summit the valley turns around the base of a hill ot
granite. "This hill is traversed by a narrow dyke of trap rock of a dark-green color, but it is only
slightly exposed in the bank of the stream, and its upper portions are so much — by
debris that I did not ascertain its direction.

Vein of copper ore.—But a short distance from this dyke a vein of copper ore appears on the
surface. Its presence is indicated by the green color of the carbonate, and it has been prospected
by parties from Los Angeles, who have broken off some of the surface rock, and accumulated
several hundred weight of ore.!

The general course of this vein was found to be about 45 degrees east of north, and its dip was
nearly vertical, or appeared so at the surface. The exposure is about 90 feet above the bed of
the stream. The ore is associated with qm and may be found in strings and veins over a
width of more than fifteen feet.

Before reaching this locality ot copper ore, outcrops of igneous rock were found on the left.
A part of the ridge is quite red, and it is over 2,000 feet wide. A small isolated hill on the
right appeared to be eruptive rock also.

White granite.—The mountains on the left of this nie of the pass are high rugged peaks,
composed of light-colored granite, in which hornblende is seldom present. The decomposition
of this granite appears to be rapid, and its surface becomes as white as chalk ; so that wherever
itis visible between the thick growth of dwarf oaks it looks like patches of snow. When a
high wind blows over these hills it raises a cloud of white dust, formed by the disintegrating
feldspar. The granite seems to be almost wholly formed of white feldspar or albite; and both
quartz and mica are in small proportion, and are also very white.

Outcrop of sandstone strata.—A short distance below the copper vein, the upraised and uneven

edges of stratified sandstones and conglomerate become visible on the right side of the pass,
beyond the low foot-hills of granite. The dark-colored ridge of volcanic rock also shows its
summit at several places. "These formations appear to extend nearly parallel with the valley,
and the intrusive rock comes down to the bed of the stream. Below this the outcrops of
upraised strata were nearer to the trail and more distinct, and are seen to be worn into fantastic
Shapes. A mass of one of the outlying beds on the top of a hill had an outline bearing a close
resemblance to the features of a man. This is represented in the annexed engraving from a
Sketch by Mr. Koppel. It was taken from the camp-ground on the border of the creek in the
valley of the pass. The cottonwood trees had been scorched and partly burned by fires.

There was not a good opportunity to examine the lithological character of these strata; but
they had the appearance of being nearly identical in their nature with the sediments seen in the

۱ See description of this ore in Chapter XX.

70 GEOLOGY.

lower parts of the Pass of San Franeisquito. The colors presented, were varying shades of gray,

red, and brown; the materials were coarse, and, so far as I observed, were not accompanied by -

beds of shale.

= = =>
C مهن‎ Con Se Š

BLUFF OF SANDSTONE, WILLIAMSON'S PASS.

The series attains a great thickness, but it could not be determined with any accuracy. The
uplifts and disturbances appear to be produced by the dyke or ridge of intruded porphyritic
rock, which extends from the summit nearly half way down to the plains, but appears to: e
broken in several places. Fora part of the way it was hidden from the trail by intervening
hills of granite; but there were good evidences of the presence of the rock. The representation
of the outcrops on the map is presented as an approximation to their position and relative mag-
nitude. The true direction and extent of the ridges can only be ascertained by a survey for he
purpose. It is very probable that several intrusions would be found. A short distance below
the end of the ridge of erupted rock, a long valley was seen extending off towards the east, and
the dry bed of a stream, very broad, and lined with large boulders, indicated ‘the existence ۳
a powerful current there at some seasons of the year. The rocks thus transported along this
creek were mostly granitic and metamorphic, much white granite being found. I picked up
several masses, which had a delicate purple or lilac tint, produced by the feldspar. . This, how-
ever, was a syenite, no mica being visible, but an abundance of hornblende of an olive-green
color. The crystals were so disposed throughout the rock that the surface looked as if it had
been written upon. The rock in factis a beautiful graphic syenite. The appearance of a
surface of one of the pebbles is shown in the annexed figure, the black portions representing
the hornblende, and the light the feldspar, The latter is also crystalline, and apparently the
cause of the peculiar form of the masses of hornblende. Neither mica nor quartz were observ

*

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5 á T i "mes P ا‎ a z N NT
OO A سا‎

METAMORPHIC ROCKS—TERTIARY STRATA. 71

in the specimens, but in some, garnets and magnetite were abundant. The size of some of the

masses of ore, and the number of the fragments of this peculiar rock, indicated the existence ot
very considerable quantities up the valley, and we may expect to discover a valuable bed of
iron ore in that region.

GRAPHIC SYENITE, WILLIAMSON’S PASS.

1
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:

The lower part of the pass is narrow, and bounded on each side by ridges ot white granite,
the sandstone being beyond. About sixteen miles from the summit, the granite hills become
higher, and the stream winds in acircuitous course around projecting points of the ridges. Here

the granites no longer have the peculiar whiteness, but are highly laminated and micaceous,
becoming gneissose, and have the usual dark color. The planes of lamination are bent and con-
torted, and veins of feldspar and quartz traverse the rock in various directions. These rocks
are in all probability metamorphic, and in appearance they present a great contrast to the
white and chalk-like granite which forms the hills along a great part of the pass.

Low, rolling hills.—About 19 miles from the summit the granitic hills disappear, and the
valley is bounded by low hills of sandstone and conglomerate. The country opens, and a view
is pres nted for long distances in various directions. The strata are exposed all along the

Stream, and dip, at small angles, in different directions ; but as we proceeded further from the

NUT E ROI UE O Mess ep E i‏ رن
Spc. A = MIL EC AS ST N, s of o une EE SR‏

igneous rocks of the pass, the flexures became more and more gentle, until the strata were
nearly horizontal. It will be seen on the map that this part of the pass is not far from the
point where sandstone strata were examined in the lower part of the Pass of San Francisquito.
They are evidently the same series of sediments, and they form the bounding hills of the valley
of the San Francisquito Rancho. The low hills, however, at the borders of the granitic ridges,
have a more recent appearance than the uplifted strata higher up in the valley, and they may
differ greatly in age. The coincidence of the direction of the pass and of the other principal
valleys with the trend of the rocks is worthy of notice, and is well shown on the map. The Pass
of San Francisquito, in its upper portion, is an exception to this observation, the valley of the
creek being nearly transverse to the trend of the granite it crosses; it is, however, a narrow,
rugged caiion in that portion of its course, and it does not compare in extent with the long, low
valleys occupied by the sandstones.

We met with considerable difficulty in portions of the pass from the growth of timber and
willows along the creek, which filled the whole valley between the ridges on either side and
prevented us from progressing, so that we were obliged to cut our way through the thickets and .
form a road for the wagon; with our small number this wasa serious undertaking and occupied
much time. On the 26th we cut a road one-fourth of a mile long through the timber, and was

. obliged to cut again on the 27th and 28th; as we had but ong axe, sheath-knives and heavy
clubs were brought into use, with which the brush and vines were levelled to the ground. An
old pack-trail was found along the sides of the ridges, and was probably formed when the copper
locality was prospected.

San Francisquito Rancho, October 28.—After we emerged from the cañon in the granites, and

72 GEOLOGY.

had progressed for a few miles down the valley in the sandstone formation, we saw droves of
cattle feeding at a distance, which probably belonged to the rancho. As soon as we found water
in the bed of the creek (which was dry for a long distance in the lower part of the pass) we
ncamped and found plenty of good grass for the animals.

The sandstone strata along the bank of the stream were in some places inclined at an angle of
nearly twenty degrees, but below camp they were nearly horizontal, and the elevation of the
exposure above the stream appeared to diminish towards the lower parts of the valley.

The next day (29th October) we passed over the extensive plain of the rancho nearly to the
house on the Santa Clara river. We wound about for several miles among groves of oaks and
cotton-wood trees, and saw numerous large herds of cattle attended by vaqueros. Cottonwood
appeared to be the principal timber, and the evergreen oak (Q. agrifolia) was observed on the
low hills of the vicinity.

We soon reached the trail that leads from Los Angeles, by San Fernando Mission, to this rancho,
and thence by the Pass of San Francisquito to the Great Basin. This is the route taken by the
emigration to the Tulare valley and the southern mines along the San Joaquin. When we
reached this trail a large drove of cattle was passing, and they were on tbeir way to the Tulare
valley through the Great Basin and the Tejon Pass. It required great exertion on the part of
the vaqueros.in charge of the cattle belonging to the rancho to prevent them from joining the
drove and moving off with them. Where there are no fences, as on these great ranchos, it
must be exceedingly annoying and expensive to be constantly on the watch in order to prevent
the mingling of the herds.

Santa Clara river.—This stream, at the place where the road crosses it, flows in a broad but
shallow bed, depressed about twenty feet below the general level of the plain. The vertical
banks are seen to consist of horizontal, alluvial strata of sand and clay, very similar in their ap-
pearance to those of the banks of the San Joaquin and King's river. This alluvial formation
forms a narrow belt along the river, and is so limited in extent that it has not been represented
by a separate color on the map.

After crossing this stream, our course was changed at an acute angle towards the southeast,
in order to reach the San Fernando Pass. Our road lay for nearly four miles over à level plain,
which was intersected in every direction by dusty trails made by the numerous herds of cattle.
They presented a curious appearance, extending in nearly straight lines over the broad area.
Owing to the absence of a well marked wagon-road, and the confusion caused by these trails,
we kept too far west, and, at night, reached low hills of sandstone, and were obliged to encamp
without water, except a little that was skimmed from the surface of cattle tracks in a muddy
sprizg near by. While two of the party were engaged in collecting this water, two bears made
their appearance in search of their evening drink,

Hills of sandstone.—The sandstone hills at our camp were the foot- hills of a long range that
appeared to extend in a nearly east and west direction. The strata were inclined at various
angles, the dip at ono place being 25°, and at another 30°, towards the north. They were com-
posed of gravel and sand, forming conglomerates, and of compact sandstone. Numerous boulders,
of a compact, hard, greenish sandstone, were found in the bed of the stream; and they Were,
doubtless, derived from the higher hills beyond us. No fossils were observed.

TERTIARY STRATA—-FOSSILS— LOS ANGELES RIVER. 73

SAN FERNANDO PASS.

October 30.—We moved to the east, and found the trail leading to the pass. A fine brook
flows in the foot-hills, and an inviting camping-ground was passed, where we should have rested
during the preceding night. Plane trees and the evergreen oaks grew here in abundance, and
one of the men found a quantity of small walnuts, similar in every respect, except size, to the
ordinary, round English walnut.

The border of this brook was evidently a favorite camping place, and had been much used.
Crosses were cut deeply in the trunks of the trees, and some of them were, doubtless, the work
of the Fathers many years ago. Among various inscriptions cut in the smooth bark of the large
plane trees was one by Joaquin, the much-dreaded bandit and assassin.

This pass is hardly worthy of the name, for it consists of a steep ascent and descent over the
range of hills known at the locality as the Susannah Range. The ascent from the north is not
so abrupt as the descent on the opposite side, which, in some places, becomes nearly vertical,
and is not passable for wagons without the aid of ropes. The summit level was found to be less
than two thousand feet above the sea, and about ı six hundred feet above the general level of the
plain of the San Francisquito rancho.

Sandstone formation, probably Tertiary.—The a rocks visible in this pass were stratified
sands and clays, in some places forming firm, compact strata, and in others appearing soft and
crumbling. These strata are unlifted, and their edges are well exposed by deep ravines that
have been cut by running water. When these exposed edges were viewed from different points
along the trail, they had the appearance of dipping in various directions, and several contradic-
tory results were obtained. It was, however, very plain that the hills had long slopes towards
the north or northwest, and that in the opposite direction they presented bold bluffs or escarp-
ments; I therefore concluded that the prevailing dip on the north side of the summit was
northward, and that the trend of the flexure was a little north of west and south of east. It is
probable, also, that this range is formed by an anticlinal axis of the strata ; but the transit was
made so hurriedly that it was impossible to give the dips a careful and full examination. The
long and gentle slopes towards the north were sparsely wooded with oak trees, but the escarp-
ments were barren, or only covered with tufts of grass, then parched and dry.

After reaching the summit, it was a difficult operation to get the wagon down the hill, for it
was so steep that it was almost impossible to descend on foot without passing to and fro in
diagonal lines. If it ever becomes necessary to build a railroad at this place, the hills must be
tunnelled or cut through. The only rock that will be encountered is the sandstone, and much
of it is soft and can be removed by the pickaxe, and it is probable that very little blasting will
be necessary.

Fossils.—A short distance beyond the base of this steep hill, I found a boulder of sandstone
in the bed of the creek, containing fossils, which were but partly preserved, the greater portion
of the lime having been removed, so that neither the shells nor casts were left in a perfect state.
The specimens obtained were sent to Mr. Conrad for description, but their specific characters
were too indistinct for determination.

They are of the genera Ostrea, Pecten, and Turritella, and show that the formation is Tertiary.

Late in the evening we encamped under some trees by the side of the creek that flows from
the pass, and is one of the tributaries of the Rio de los Angeles. The ground appeared to have
been cultivated ; and in the morning we found that we were under fig trees, and by the side of a

10 F

"4 | GEOLOGY.

hedge of the gigantic prickly pear, about twelve feet high, and covered with partly-ripened
fruit—the tuna, or Indian fig. A ladder was resting against the hedge, and the artist has
represented the fruit as if collected by hand; a mode of gathering which seems rather incom-
patible with its thorny nature.

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The peculiarly moist and balmy air which we experienced at this camp through the night, and
the vegetation that indicated settlements and civilization, were delightful to us after travelling
so long on the mountains and the elevated and arid surface of the Great Basin.

SAN FERNANDO MISSION.

Soon after leaving our camp under the fig trees, we found that we were entering & widely
extended valley with a nearly level surface, without trees or verdure, and bounded on all sides
by distant ranges of mountains. On turning the point of a hill, we came suddenly in sight of
the Mission buildings, which, with the surrounding gardens, stood isolated in the seemingly
desert plain. and produced a most beautiful effect, —(See View VI.) The gardens were enclosed
by walls, but the graceful palm rose above them, and groves of olive, lemon, and orange —
could be seen within. Outside of the walls the surface was barren and gravelly, and the fertility
within is the result of irrigation. i

The building presents an imposing appearance, having a long portico formed by a colonade,
with twenty arches, built of brick, or abobe, and plastered and whitewashed. The floor -
paved with tiles, and a pleasant promenade in front of the edifice is thus afforded. The remalns

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GROLOGY

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MISSION OF SAN FERNANDO—PALM TREES. 75

of alarge fountain, with a circular basin ten feet or more in diameter, was directly in front of the
main entrance, and gave an indication of the splendor of the establishment in former days. I
was surprised to find the palm growing so far north, (lat. 34° 20/,) and surrounded also by
such a variety of tropical fruits.?

The grape is cultivated here, and we purchased a quantity of a very pleasant red wine, simi-
lar to claret. Several men were employed in filling a large still with the fermented pulp and
skins of grapes, from which the juice had been pressed, with the intention of distilling brandy
(agua diente) from it.

Herds of cattle were seen on parts of the broad plain, feeding on dried grass or the burrs of
the California clover, which covers the ground in the latter part of summer when all the grass
has disappeared. This plain doubtless presents a beautifully green surface in the winter and
early summer when watered by the rains. From the Mission, we passed directly across the
plain towards a low range of hills which forms the boundary between it and the plain on which
Los Angeles is built. The distance across the plain is about ten miles, and the road was bor-
dered in some places by a low growth of shrubbery and cactace®, which gave a peculiar aspect
to the country, and reminded some of the party of Mexican landscapes. The distant ranges of
mountains had a peculiar barren look, and in color were of various shades of brown, blue, aud
purple. When we reached the base of the hills, we crossed a running stream, bordered by grass,
which we afterwards found to be the Los Angeles river, and then the ascent of the hills imme-
diately commenced.

Range of sandstone hills, between San Fernando and Los Angeles. —This range appeared to
extend nearly east and west, bounding the San Fernando plain on the south, and trending par-
allel with the Susannah range on the north side. Like that range, this seemed formed of sedi-
mentary strata, but they were not so well exposed ; and we travelled in such haste that few
observations on them were made.

Towards the summit, and near the road-side, I icant an outcrop of erupted rock, which was
much obscured by decomposition, but showed a globular character, the bank being filled with
balls of various sizes, from which successive crusts of the decaying rock were scaling off. It
had a dark color, and contained considerable oxyde of iron, indicated by the dark stains. This
intrusive rock is represented on the general geological map, but subsequent observations will
doubtless add many important facts to the now limited knowledge of the locality.

"The Mission of San Fernando was founded September 8, 1797, under the name of Mission de San Fernando Rey de
Upwards of five hundred Indians have been attached to this Mission. In 1838 it could count fourteen thousand cattle, five
thousand horses, and seven thousand sheep. Nearly eight thousand fanegas of grain have been harvested and two hundred
barrels of wine and brandy in a year.— ofr 59.

* Baron Von Humboldt makes the following observations on the geographical limits of palms: ** When we consider the
extreme geographical, and consequently, also the climatic limits of palms at spots which are but little elevated above the
as of the sea, we find that some forms (the date palm, Chamerops humilis, Ch. palmetto, and Areca sapida, of New ee
advance far within the temper h hemispheres to ee the mean annual t t
from 57° to 60° Fahrenheit. its we focis a progressive scale of cultivated plants in accordance with the different i
of heat they require, and begin with the maximum, we have cacao, indigo, bananas, coffee, cotton, date palms, orange

and
lemon trees, olives, Spanish chestnuts, and vines. In Euro ope, date palms, together with a Chamzrops humilis grow in the
parallels of 4349 and 44°—as, for € on the Genoese Rivera del Porrente, near Bordighera, between Monaco aud San

Stefano, where there isa palm grove numbering more than four thousand trees; also in Dalmatia, near Sapalatro. It is
remarkable that the Chamzrops humilis i is of occurrence in the و‎ of Nice and in Sardinia, whilst it is
not found in the island of Corsica, lying between the two. In the new continent, the Chamserops palmetto, which! is some-

times more than forty feet high, does not adie further north than 34°; a circumstance that may be explained by the
inflection of the isothermal lines. In the southern hemisphere, Robert Brown found that palms, of which there are ki
very few (six or seven) species, advance as far as 34° in New Holland ; while Sir Joseph Banks saw an Areca in New

as far as 380." — Humboldt s Views of Nature, Bohn s edition. London, 1850, pp. 297-298.

76 GEOLOGY.

The roadway over these hills was lined with clumps of the prickly pear, rising to the height
of from two to five or ten feet, and bearing fruit which was exceedingly abundant and in full
perfection. When perfectly ripe it has a beautiful claret color, with a shade of purple, and is
very refreshing to the traveller if suffering from thirst. It is, however, a difficult operation to
pick and prepare them for eating without having the hands filled with the sharp prickles. The
best way to pick them is to insert a pointed stick at the end, and then cut them loose from the
plant with a long knife. They are then securely held by the stick while the skin is cut off.

View of the Pacific ocean.—In descending from the higher parts of the range, the eye was
permitted to wander over an extended area sloping gently away from the mountains towards the
west. This is one of the most marked peculiarities of the landscape on the western coast;
every mountain and mountain range is flanked by long, gently descending slopes, which seem
like plains when passing over them, but viewed from a distance their inclination is strikingly
evident. In the present instance the slopes appeared to be prolonged in a limitless plain ex-
tending to the horizon; but a more favorable point of view showed to us the broad, mirror-like
surface of the great ocean.

LOS ANGELES.!

Our approach to Los Angeles was over a portion of the slope just described, and we reached
the city in the evening of the 31st October. It ison the Los Angeles river, and is about twenty
miles distant from the Pacific, where its port, (or embarcadero,) San Pedro, is situated on an
open bay at the mouth of the San Gabriel and Los Angeles rivers. .

Before reaching the city, and about five miles northwest of it, we crossed a small brook with
vertical banks, in which the edges of nearly horizontal strata were exposed. They consist of
light-colored shales, thinly stratified, and charged with bitumen, which formed black and brown
seams between the layers. A coarse conglomerate, composed of sandstone, boulders, and
masses of shale, was superimposed on these strata, and looked like ordinary beach-shingle.

Nearer the city, an excavation had been made in the side of a hill into horizontal strata, which
were white and chalk-like. "They were compact ; and large masses of the white rock could be
readily broken out, it being very friable &nd light, yet possessing great tenacity and toughness.
This rock is principally siliceous, and does not effervesce with acids. It is underlaid by sand-
stone, also nearly white. No fossils were found; but the strata are like those afterwards seen
at Monterey, and are probably Miocene Tertiary.

Bitumen Springs— Tar Springs.’’—There are several places in the vicinity of the city where
bitumen, or mineral pitch, rises from the ground in large quantities. These places are known as
Tar Springs, or Pitch Springs, and some of them form large ponds orlakes. One ofthe springs
was passed on our way to the city, and was near the outcrop of bituminous shale in the banks
of the creek already described. "This spring was nothing more than an overflow of the bitumen
from a small aperture in the ground, around which it had spread out on all sides, so that it
covered a circular space about thirty feet in diameter. The accumulated bitumen had hardened
by exposure, and its outer portions were mingled with sand, so that it was not easy to deter-
mine its precise limits. It formed a smooth, hard surface like a pavement; but towards the
centre it was quite soft and semi-fluid, like melted pitch. "The central portion of the overflow
was higher than the margin ; and it was evident that all the hard, portion had risen in a fluid

! The Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Regna de los Angeles was founded at the end of December, 1781, by order of the
governor of California, Don Felipe de Neve. - =

° LOS ANGELES—GRAPES— WINE. 77

state, and by the heat of the sun had been gradually spread out over the surface; at the same
time, being constantly exposed to dust, it had become so thoroughly incorporated with it that
the compound had all the consistency of an artificial mixture. Tufts of “salt grass" were
growing in some of the hollows and crevices of the outer portions of the hardened bitumen.

Vineyard and grape culture at Los Angeles.—It is not possible for me to present a faithful and
complete representation of the agricultural capabilities and resources of this region—a region
which enjoys the advantages of a most genial climate and fertile soil. It is also almost impos-
sible, in this place, even to enumerate the variety of fruits and vegetables that can be abund-
antly produced here with great ease. The most important production of the soil, at this time,
is the grape, which is raised in immense quantities in the suburbs of the town and at adjoining
ranchos. It was very delightful, after having been so long in the mountains, far from civiliza-
tion, and for a part of the time travelling over the arid wastes of the Great Basin, to arrive in
this vine-clad valley, and to walk through gardens and vineyards where the purple fruit hung in
luxuriant and tempting clusters. Many of these vineyards are very extensive, and are said to
contain from 25,000 to 30,000, and even 40,000 vines. Formerly, however, the number of vines
was much greater; and I was informed that the vineyard of the mission of San Gabriel, nine
miles distant, once contained. over 100,000 vines.

These vines are planted about five feet apart, and are not trained on supports or espaliers,
but are kept closely trimmed, and are not allowed to spread or to rise over about four feet from
the ground. This produces a stout, thick vine, which does not require support. Many of the
vines were six and eight inches in diameter. These vines bear enormous bunches of fruit,
weighing from one to three pounds and more, Several varieties are cultivated, but all of them
are said to have been brought by the Padres from France and Spain.

Since San Francisco became a populous city, the great bulk of the grape crop is sent there for
sale. When we arrived at Los Angeles (November 1st) it was the grape season, and the
fruit was in full perfection ; some of the earlier varieties—the white grape—had, however,
disappeared. "The vineyards were traversed in all directions by laborers, bearing baskets of the
fruit to the packing-sheds, where it was spread out in large piles upon clean white cloths, laid
down on the hard ground or upon floors. Boxes of redwood, capable of holding about sixty
pounds, are used for their reception, and the clusters are carefully laid in with clean saw-dust.

These grapes could be purchased at the vineyard for three and a half cents per pound, or, if
packed in boxes, at $6 per box ; they are retailed in San Francisco at from eighteen to twenty-
five cents a pound.

Wine.—Before it became profitable to ship the greater portion of the grape crop to San
Francisco, a large quantity of wine was annually manufactured. According to the census
returns of 1850,! 58,055 gallons of wine were produced in California that year—the greater part
of which was from Los Angeles—being about 10,000 gallons more than was made in Ohio for
the same year. An old resident of the city, Don Luis, has been ‚prominent among the vine-
producers of the State, and his wine cellars were filled with long rows of tierces. This gentle-
man has one of the largest vineyards in the city, but since 1850 he has made but little wine.
Samples of the different wines, both white and red, were obtained ; the best white wine being
sold for one dollar a bottle, and the red for fifty cents. The second quality of white wine had a
slight red color and an agreeable flavor, similar to that of Madeira but the red wine was not
equal to that we purchased at San Fernando.

! Compendium United States Census, p. 174.

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78 - GEOLOGY.

A cask of the best wine, that was purchased at this vineyard and shipped to New York around
Cape Horn, was found, on arrival, to have acquired considerable color, being much darker, and:
not unlike sherry both in color and taste. A very strong white brandy (agua diente) is also
manufactured at this vineyard, and is sold for $2 25 per gallon.

I was informed that the quality of the grapes and wine at Los Angeles was not equal to that
on several ranchos and at the Mission, which is on higher ground. The vineyards on moist
land produce larger and more juicy grapes, but they are not equal in flavor to those grown on
dry soils. At some of the vineyards it is not possible to make good red wine, the skin of the
berry being deficient in coloring matter. This deficiency is attributed to the influence of nitre
in the soil, as it is often seen to effloresce on the surface where a pool of water has dried up.

It is not possible to present in this place a full and fair view of the condition and prospects of
the grape culture at Los Angeles and its vicinity ; but I became convinced, from the few
observations that it was possible to make during our stay of only two days, that the region is
peculiarly well adapted to the growth of the grape and other fruits. The genial climate and
the character of the soil are favorable, and there is nothing to prevent the multiplication of
vineyards to an almost unlimited extent. I believe that when the adaptation of that portion of
California to the culture of grape and the manufacture of wine becomes known and appreciated,
the State will become celebrated not only for its gold and grain, but for its fruits and wines.

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MISSION OF SAN GABRIEL.

Los Angeles to San Bernardino city.—We left Los Angeles on the morning of the 2d of
November, and passed a region of low, rounded hills, surrounded by gentle slopes. They
appeared to be composed of clay in thin layers, and are probably Tertiary. We soon arrived at
the Mission of San Gabriel, nine miles distant from Los Angeles. It is beautifully situated at
the base of the mountains, and is surrounded by extensive gardens and vineyards.

The building is high and quadrangular, and appears to be still used for church service ; the
bells were ringing, and we met numerous parties of native Californians on their way there.

The vineyard appears to -be neglected, and is going to decay ; the enclosures being broken
down and animals having free range through it. Extended and beautiful hedges of the prickly-
pear were numerous, and the fruit was very abundant.!

1 The Mission of San Gabriel Arcángel was founded by the Padre J unipero Serra, September 8, 1771. This was one of the
richest missions of California ; and it is said that the number of animals belonging to it at ine time was so great that it
became necessary to kill the horses in order to preserve sufficient pasture for the cattle. An idea of the extent and
resources of this mission establishment will be obtained from the following description, which I translate from the French
work of De Mofras.— Exp. de l Oregon, &c., ii. p. 350. i

In 1834, at the time of the opulence of San Gabriel, nearly three thousand Indians were attached to the establishment.

SAN GABRIEL—ALLUVIAL LAND—IGNEOUS ROCK, 19

Valley of San Gabriel river.—Monte.—After crossing this stream, we passed over a broad plain
which was covered with vegetation, and appeared to possess a fertile soil and to be well suited
to agriculture. It was already covered by preémption claims, and the settlers were busily
engaged in erecting small adobe houses, the clay for the adobes being obtained on the spot by
digging down a few feet. Many American families were already established there, and we
passed several fields of corn and vegetables. The ground is low and moist, and the soil clayey.
It is an alluvial deposit.

At the Puenta rancho we tasted some good red wine, like port, manufactured from grapes
raised on the place, and beautiful bunches of red and white grapes were obtained at an adjoining
house. Large flocks of sheep were feeding upon the burr of the California clover, and the A
surface in some places was covered with a dense thicket of the dead stalks of the wild mustard, - |
which grows there to a great height. Low foot-hills rose to the northward of this place, but
the rocks were not seen. A large portion of the country passed over had an alluvial aspect.

On the 3d of November we stopped at a rancho of a native Californian to purchase barley. I
there observed fig and peach trees growing luxuriantly near the house. The rafters of the
store-house, from which the barley was taken, were hung with clusters of grapes, which were :
much dried, like raisins. The land here is well watered, and has a deep clay soil; an exposure 1
along a brook showed an alluvial deposit fifteen feet in thickness. Our movements were much
embarrassed this morning by a dense fog, which hung over the landscape until nine o’clock,
and prevented us from seeing anything at a distance of over twenty yards. We passed to-day
an outcrop of intrusive rock, forming a low ridge on our right, trending approximately east and
west. Its position is indicated on the general map as nearly as possible. I also observed low
hills of white and yellowish shale, in straight thin layers, not far from the erupted rock.

[On the recent maps of this region from the United States Land Office, a range of hills is laid
down, extending nearly northwest and southeast, or from about the point at which the intru-
sive rock was observed towards the mountains of the Peninsula. This range of hills is prob-
ably formed of igneous rocks, dykes of trap, greenstone or porphyry, and uplifted tertiary
strata. Geologically, it is probably the equivalent of the San Fernando hills, and those between
San Fernando and Los Angeles, and may be regarded as holding a relation to the Bernardino
Sierra similar to that of the Coast Mountains to the Sierra Nevada. In the absence of any
definite knowledge of this range at the time of writing this Itinerary, the whole slope to the
Pacific from the valley of San Bernardino was regarded as nearly unbroken.—1857.]

It possessed one hundred and five thousand cattle, twenty thousand horses, and more than forty thousand sheep. They
harvested twenty thousand fanegas of grain, and made five hundred barrels of wine, and as much brandy. At this time
(1844) there are not more than five hundred Indians, seven hundred beef cattle, five bundred horses, and three thousand
five hundred sheep.

San Gabriel is indebted for the introduction of the culture of the vine to Padre Zalvidea. He made the first attempt
upon a vineyard of seventy thousand stock: s, and this obtained for him, in that region, the surname of ‘‘ Father of seventy
thousand vines.''— (EI padre de las setenta. m

There are fine clumps of palm trees near the Mission, and three grand víneyards, containing nearly two e: thousand
stocks. Thereare also four —€— orchards and kitchen gardens, and an immense garden of olives, and another containing
four hundred orange trees. The eyards, gardens and orchards were surrounded by an impenetrable "E us prickly-
pear, (figuiérs de Barbarie.) Pid Me had negotiated with an American house for the iron necessary to form a fence

around the vineyard, and was on the point of having all the materials ready when the secularization took place. This
monk distinguished awe by his enterprising spirit. He sent a ship to San Blas every year loaded with oil, hemp =

He often sent another to Lima with a cargo of soap and tallow. The number of hides furnished by the Mission
rom twenty to ehe thousand a year.

80 GEOLOGY.

Qui-quai-mungo rancho.—At this place the road from Los Angeles branches, one passing to
the Cajon Pass, and the other to the Mormon settlement. The last had been recently laid out
and constructed by the Mormons, and led in a straight line over a broad plain, covered with
chamisal, to the valley of the Santa Anna, where the city is located. The chamisal is principally
Larrea Mexicana, and forms a dense growth, which it is almost impossible to break through.

The country between Los Angeles and San Bernardino was passed over very rapidly, and few
opportunities for geological examinations were presented. The surface is generally level, and
in many places has the appearance of a broad plain. Its sloping character has, however, been
mentioned, and a more correct conception of the nature of the region can be obtained by keeping
this peculiarity in mind. The mountains, (the Bernardino Sierra,) which are flanked by this
extended slope, have a nearly east and west trend, and rise to the height of about 6,000 feet.
Near the rancho of Qui-quai-mungo they are called Qui-quai-mungo mountains, but this name
is not known beyond the locality.

By reference to the map, it will be seen that this slope, or the region between the base of the
Bernardino Sierra and the shore of the Pacific, is about 30 miles in width at San Gabriel, and 50
at San Bernardino, while at San Diego it is only about 20 miles. Slopes or plains of this extent
are unusual on the western coast, the mountain ranges at other points being flanked by a com-

paratively narrow slope, or descending abruptly to the ocean. The existence of ridges of intru-
sive rocks has been noted, and it is probable that others will be found in different parts of the
slope, forming low ridges, or ranges of hills. The strata which underlie and form the slope
are doubtless Tertiary, and are overlaid by marine drift and beach-shingle, and by the more
recent alluvial deposits along the streams.

VALLEY OF SAN BERNARDINO.

The valley of San Bernardino, which has been selected by the Mormons as the site for their
new city (San Bernardino) in California, is connected with the series of beautiful valleys and
slopes just described. It is situated at the southern base of the high, and during the greater
part of the year snow-capped, peak of San Bernardino, and is irrigated by the waters that
condense on its summit and flow in many channels down its sides. The northern boundary of
the valley is formed partly by this mountain, and partly by the adjoining ridges of the moun-
tain chain that trends westward, and has already been described as the Bernardino Sierra. At
the peak of San Bernardino the trends of the mountains change, and become more southerly in
direction, and these form the eastern boundary of the valley. Through these bounding ranges
of mountains there are two passes which communicate with the valley, one leading northward

` up to the surface of the Great Basin, called the Cajon Pass, and the other leading eastward over
the mountains south of San Bernardino, called the San Gorgoño or San Bernardino Pass.

The principal stream of the valley is the Rio Santa Anna, which is formed by the union of
severalstreams that rise in the mountains at distant points between the Cajon Pass and San
Bernardino Pass, and have their point of junction at the city. "These numerous streams wind
about, and thus form a wide area of bottom-land which is peculiarly rich and well adapted to
agriculture. The valley may, in fact, be considered as a broad and shallow excavation, formed
by the action of the streams upon the slopes that formerly flanked: San Bernardino and the
adjacent mountains, these slopes having been a continuation of those that now remain in

- detached po tions between the mountains and the Pacific.

VALLEY OF SAN BERNARDINO—MORMONS. 81

The road which leads from Los Angeles to San Bernardino passes over one of these remnants
of the former slope, and, on approaching the valley of the Santa Anna, it becomes evident that
the bottom-land was formed by the action of the streams, and the traveller descends abruptly
from the plain upon which he has been travelling to the level of the river banks below. The
valley is thus partially bordered by a terrace or bank formed by the edge of the slope. One of
the streams flows at the foot of this terrace, and at the point where the road descends it is
bordered by a growth of plane trees and grape-vines. Boys were seen fishing for trout in its
clear waters. A saw mill, for sawing pickets for fences, is located near that point, and from
there to the city, near the centre of the valley, the indications of a thriving and industrious
community were everywhere evident. |

The Mormons arrived in this valley from the Great Salt Lake in the fall of 1851, and
having but little time to prepare for winter, their houses were rudely constructed of logs and
adobes and have not yet been rebuilt. The city consists of an open square, surrounded by log
houses and stout pickets, they having been obliged to bring their dwellings together in this
way in order to be secure from the attacks of the Indians. They are now, however, erecting
neat adobe buildings in all parts of the valley, and bringing it under cultivation. Messrs.
Lyman and Rich, the prominent men of the settlement, have erected a convenient store and post
office in the centre of the square, and we were enabled to procure a fresh stock of provisions—
flour, fish, butter, &c.—for the party. A large flour mill, twenty-five feet by forty, with two
sets of burr stones and a race-way one mile in length, had just been completed : a storehouse
of adobes, thirty feet by seventy, was nearly full of sacks of grain waiting to be ground. A
large quantity of good flour is made here and is sent to market at Los Angeles or to San Pedro
for shipment.

Soil and Climate of the Valley.—A great variety of soils is presented in the different parts
of the valley, at different distances from the streams and at different elevations above them.
They are, in general, very fertile and adapted to cultivation, and to the growth of all kinds of
grain and fruits. In many places, the peculiarities of surface and soil are the same as in the
Great Basin, on the opposite side of the Sierra; but a great contrast is presented in the aspect
of the landscape. The valley is decked with vineyards and cultivated fields ; while on the Great
Basin side, yucca trees and thorny shrubs cover the dry and. desert-like surface. The great
difference in the altitude of the two places is, also, strikingly apparent, when an observer stands
in the valley and looks upwards to the hoary summit of Bernardino and the high peaks about
the Cajon pass, and it is remembered that when standing on the plains and slopes of the Great
Basin, near the top of the mountains, these peaks appear as comparatively low hills.

The soil is principally derived from the disintegration of granite. On the higher parts of the
valley, or on the terrace or slope above the bed of the Santa Anna, and in some places below the
upper plains, it is rather coarse and gravelly, and not unlike the granitic soils of the San
Joaquin plains and the Tejon; it would, however, be exceedingly fertile if well watered.
Along the river bottoms the soil is very much finer, and contains more clay. The Santa Anna
flows in a shallow, sandy bed, but little depressed below the general surface or bottom. The
portions of this bottom-land nearest = river are somewhat sandy ; but in other ag the soil
is a rich, deep loam.

A specimen of both the upper soil and the subsoil was taken near the settlement, and not far
from a pit where adobes were being manufactured.—(See Nos. 265 and 266 of the catalogue and
collection.) An examination shows that the soil is a sandy loam containing seventy per cent.

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82 GEOLOGY.

of sand, consisting of angular grains of quartz, much yellow mica, fragments of a dark colored
rock, occasional grains of feldspar and a notable quantity of magnetic iron. The organic
matter amounts to 3.16 per cent. "The presence of the following substances was ascertained by
qualitative analysis :1

Silica.

and oxides of iron and manganese.‏ سوت

9 (little.)
Soda

Poids (traces.)
Chlorine, (abundant.)
Sulpuric acid
Phosphoric acid.

The soil thus appears to have all the elements required for great fertility. Its color is a dark
brown. The subsoil has, also, been examined, and found to be very similar to the other. It
contains 75.5 of sand, very much like the first, except that small calcareous grains are found,
which effervesce strongly with dilute acids. "The following substances are present :

Silica,
Carbonate of lime, (1.09 per cent.)
)

Chloride of sodium, — )
Potash.

In many places along the river bottom, especially on the low ground, the soil is highly
charged with salts, which effloresce on the surface, and form white crusts, preventing the
growth of useful grasses. A specimen of the incrustation, (No. 259,) on being subjected to
-chemical examination, was found to consist of:
| Chloride of sodium. 9

Sulphate of soda.
Carbonate of soda.
* Sulphate of magnesia, (trace.)

On the low land, near the town and the mill, the efflorescences were partly dissolved in
shallow pools of water, coloring them, in conjunction with the organic matter, to a rich dark
brown, very similar to the drainings. of cattle yards. Some of the incrustations appeared to
contain nitre or nitrate of soda. The luxuriance of the crops of wheat that have been raised at
this place have borne sufficient testimony to the richness of the soil. The straw grows 0 thick
and heavy, that much of it falls down, and it is said to be frequently over seven feet long.
Two good crops may be raised from only one sowing. The climate is delightful, and is well
adapted to the growth and ripening of grains and fruits. "The rains commence early in Novem-
ber, and continue at intervals through the winter. The surface becomes beautifully green in
December, and the only severe season for cattle is in the fall, when the upland grasses are com-
pletely dry and dead ; but they can then resort to the banks of the streams, which are green
throughout the year. "Wheat and barley are sown in November and December, and vegetables
may be planted at any time through the winter. Cabbages, beets, &c., grow on continuously,
without regard to seasons. Potatoes are planted in November, and sweet potatoes have been
found to grow well in some of the sandy parts of the valley. The greatest amount of butter
is made in the months of January, February, and March.

! See Appendix.

TIMBER—THERMAL SPRINGS—INCRUSTATIONS. 83

This is a favorable place for the culture of the grape, and for many of the tropical fruits ; it
will, doubtless, soon become noted for the excellence and variety of its productions. The cold
summit of the peak of San Bernardino, upon which snow rests for the greater part of the year,
has a great influence on the climate of the valley, and moderates its temperature during the
night by the cool currents of air which descend from it.

In the Bernardino Sierra, especially in the cafions and ravines near the summit, and between
the Cajon Pass and the peak of San Bernardino, there is abundance of pine and spruce timber,
which was being cut and sawed into lumber by the Mormons for their own use, and for sale at
Los Angeles. 'The brooks which flow through the ravines furnish good water-power, and
several saw mills have been erected high up in the mountains. These supply San Bernardino
with lumber, and furnish a large surplus, which is carried to Los Angeles for sale. A good
road has been made from these mills to the settlement at great expense, and a large quantity of
lumber is brought down and taken to market. When the railroad is constructed from the
mouth of the Gila to this valley, and beyond it to Los Angeles, a large part of the timber for
ties can be obtained from these forests, cheaper than it can be procured from Oregon.

Hot springs.— Around the borders of the valley there are numerous localities of thermal
springs. 'The warm and hot waters gush out from the granitic rocks on the flanks of San
Bernardino and the adjacent heights. In one place the springs are so numerous, and the water
rises in such volume, that a good sized mill-stream of hot water is formed, which flows down
into the valley and is one of the principal tributaries of the Santa Anna river. This brook of
hot water retains a temperature of 100? three or four miles from its source.

I visited several of the springs on the side of the Sierra, between San Bernardino mountain and
the Cajon Pass, near the saw mill road, and found them to rise through an accumulation of
drift and debris, along the banks of a small mountain brook. It was evident that the subjacent
granite was very near the surface, as shown by one or two outerops, from one of which the hot
water issued. Small springs rise at intervals of ten to twenty feet, along a distance of thirty
or forty rods. "Their waters unite and form a little stream that empties into the brook, a short
distance below. The banks of these streams were thickly overgrown with grass. A dense
mass of beautiful green conferve grew from the bottom and sides of the channel, and floated in
rich, waving masses in the hot water. In the immediate vicinity of the springs, however, no
vegetable growth was visible. The rocks and gravel, in contact with the water, were covered
with a snow-white incrustation; and little twigs and leaves that had fallen into it were
softened to a white pulpy mass, and were partly incrusted. This was also the case with insects
that were lying dead in the shallows of one of the springs; but I could not observe that, in
either case, any petrifaction or internal deposition of mineral matter had taken place.

The following temperatures of different springs were observed; 172°, 169°, 166°, 130°, 128°,
108° Fahrenheit. The temperature of the hot stream, below all the springs, was found to be
130°, and the mountain brook only 65°. Temperature of the air, 76°. |

The variation in the temperature of the springs is undoubtedly caused by the different circum-
stances under which the water reaches the surface, Some of them boil up among a mass of
granite boulders and gravel, and others run out from the side of a bank of loose detritus or drift
overlying the granite.

The white crust was not found in ned quantities at all of the springs. It appeared to be
most abundant at one of them. It adhered very closely to the rocks, and formed little project-
ing points or blunt protuberances from their surfaces. Some of the pebbles lying in the stream

84 GEOLOGY.

were thickly coated upon the upper side, and were placed in the collection, (No. 253.) An
analysis of the crust, since the return of the Expedition, gave the following results:

“The aqueous extract contained only a small quantity of chloride of sodium, (salt.) In hot
hydrochloric acid, the mass dissolved with strong effervescence, leaving a residue of silica and
alumina. The solution contained :

Lime, (carbonate,) chief constituent.
Silica (soluble in acid.)

Magnesia.

Alumina and oxide of iron, traces.
Phosphoric acid, trace.

A distinct reaction for fluorine was obtained by heating the powdered mineral with fragments
of marble and concentrated sulphuric acid in a dry flask; passing the gas through aqua
ammonia, evaporating this solution to dryness, re-dissolving, filtering and testing this filtrate
evaporated to dryness by etching.’’!

It thus appears that the principal constituent is carbonate of lime, and that soluble silica is
also present. It is desirable that more examinations should be made of these incrustations, and
a quantitative analysis is very desirable.

The springs were estimated to be at least five hundred feet above the level of the Santa Anna,
at the Mormon settlement, and thus nearly 1,618 feet above the sea.

These springs are not the sources of the large stream of hot water first referred to. It takes
its rise further eastward, nearer the mountain of San Bernardino. I regret that I could not
visit its source, as the springs must be numerous, and of great volume and high temperature, to
send forth such a large stream of water, retaining its temperature a long distance from the
mountains.

T was informed that there are several other localities of hot springs along these mountains;
and there are, no doubt, many that have not yet been discovered.

The water of some of these springs contains alkalies and salts in solution. This was clearly
shown by sticks or weeds that were partly immersed in the water, producing favorable condi-
tions for continuous evaporation from the outer ends. These were thickly covered with salts
in semi-crystalline crusts; they dissolved readily in the mouth, giving a cooling sensation,
similar to that produced by nitrates. The waters are supposed to possess medicinal virtues,
and the Indians have been accustomed to resort to them for the cure of diseases.

The large stream of hot water appears to be nearly pure, and is not disagreeable to the taste.
It is used for drinking and cooking at the settlement several miles below. A bathing estab-
lishment on a grand scale could easily be erected on the banks of this stream. I enjoyed 2
delightful bath in it, the desired temperature being easily obtained by ascending or descending
the stream. The granite at the springs contains a large proportion of flesh-colored feldspar;
distributed in veins. It appears to be much cracked and fissured; but this may be due to
atmospheric decomposition alone. "The rock around the springs is sensibly warm to the hand,
at a distance of four feet or more from the orifices. There are no indications of erupted trappean
or volcanic rocks in that vicinity ; nor is it at all probable that San Bernardino is volcanic. It
has the appearance of granite.

I left San Bernardino on the 6th November for the Cajon Pass, intending to join Mr. Smith,
who was surveying it. The ascent to the entrance of the Cajon was very gradual, and there
was no sudden rise of the ground. My road lay over broad fields where large crops of wheat

? This analysis was made at my request by Dr. J. D. Easter, of Washington, D. C.—See Appendix, Article VIL

MOJAVE RIVER—WARM SPRING—SALT. 85

and barley had been harvested, and I reached the cation about dark. I travelled onwards in the
dark, keeping the trail as well as possible, until late in the night, when the noise of mules was
heard, and soon afterwards the teamsters’ camp was found. Mr. Smith had camped beyond.
My mule was soon picketed, and rolling myself in a blanket I slept until daylight.

November 7.—In the morning everything was enveloped in a thick fog, so dense that objects
could not be seen at a distance of twenty or thirty feet. The amount of water precipitated on the
trees and shrubbery was enormous, although it did not rain. The elevation of this part of the
pass is over 3,000 feet. As the wind arose, the fog rolled upwards towards the summit and
permitted the surrounding ridges to be seen. Reached the depot camp, on the Mojave, in the
afternoon. The water at the spring is much warmer than the air; its temperature was found
to be 73°, and the air 60° F.

November 8.—At daylight this morning the edi was covered by frost. Temperature
of the air 34°, water of the spring 72°. Diameter of the basin of the spring about twenty
feet; depth one foot to eighteen inches; sandy bottom. The soil at camp was very light and
dusty and looked like dry ashes. It was composed chiefly of clay and sand. In some places
there was a thick growth of ‘‘salt-grass’’ and efllorescenses of salt were seen. A sample of
this soil was taken, (No. 264 of the collection.) On examination it was found to effervesce
strongly with dilute acid ; the aqueous extract contained—

Chloride of Sodium.
Carbonate of Soda.

Sulphate of Soda
Sulphate of Magnesia, (little.)

At the breaking up of the depot camp, and the division of the party, I acccompanied Lieu-
tenant Parke with the train of wagons to the Cajon Pass and through it to San Bernardino.

CAJON PASS.

This pass has been known and much used for many years, being the point where the old
Spanish trail from New Mexico to California reaches the settlements of the coast. It has been
called El Cajon de los Mejicanos, but is now well known simply as the Cajon.

It leads from the valley of the Santa Anna, over the Bernardino mountains, to the surface of
the Great Basin, near the sources of the Mojave river. It crosses the Sierra at one of its lowest
points in that vicinity, but its summit is more elevated than either of the other passes
through this chain, being 4,676 feet above tide, while Williamson" s Pass is 3,164 and the
Pass of San Francisquito 3,445.

This pass presents one great peculiarity—the surface of the Great Basin forms its summit-
level—and the traveller, when approaching the pass over the slope of the Basin, which is so
gentle as to seem like a level plain, finds himself at the summit-level of the pass, without
having encountered a single ridge. This peculiar configuration of the surface is well shown by
the profile of the pass and is considered at greater length in the chapter devoted to the descrip-
tion of the Great Basin. The following observations on the geology of the pass were made in
succession from the summit or margin of the Great Basin downwards towards the valley of San
Bernardino.

By reference to the Geological Map, the relative position of this pass to others and a general
view of its geology may be at once obtained. The high ridges which bound it on each side are
granitic, and at the margin of the Great Basin they separate, so that a re-entering angle is

86 ` GEOLOGY.

formed ; the space thus partly enclosed is occupied by sedimentary formations. At the summit-
level, the sediments which constitute the slope of the Great Basin form an almost vertical
bluff, facing the south, and about 500 feet in height. It is necessary to descend this deep
declivity in order to reach the valley of the little creek (Cajon creek) that flows to the valley of
San Bernardino. The descent of the pass is thus commenced at the very margin of the slope of
the Basin, and there is no exposure of. granitic rocks at the divide. The materials which com-
pose this formation are rudely stratified, and many irregular beds of coarse gravel and granitic
debris were noted. The lines of stratification, as seen in the face of the bluff, were nearly hori-
zontal; but this exposure is believed to be at right angles to the direction of the dip, and there-
fore does not give a correct view of the position of the strata. They probably dip northwards,
or away from the granitic elevations, at a very slight angle; no greater than their original
position as deposited, and probably conforming very nearly to the present inclination of the
slope. In their general appearance, the strata were like those seen at various places around the
inner slope of the Bernardino Sierra, and they appear to consist, almost wholly, of the debris of
granite, and to have been derived from the degradation of the A heights, under the
influence of currents or strongly agitated waters.

Accumulations of this description have generally been termed drift or detritus in this report—
these terms having been used in their most general sense, and without reference to the age of
the formations.

UPLIFTED Saison, CAJON PASS.
Upraised sandstone strata.—A short distance below the bluff at the summit there are numerous
low hills of regularly stratified sandstone. These strata are not horizontal, but are highly

PITE. ECT DEBEAS TEN OU DR NINE

CAJON PASS—SANDSTONE——GRA NITE. 8T

inclined. About one mile from the. summit, the disturbance is very great, and the strata rise in
a series of nearly vertical beds, forming precipitous ledges of bare sandstone, which have become
fantastically worn and moulded by weathering. All the angles and edges of the beds are
rounded off, and a series of hollows and cavities has been produced along the junction of the
strata differing in hardness. Sufficient soil has accumulated in these cavities to support a growth
of small vines and shrubs, that form belts of verdure on the barren bluffs. The appearance of
some of these hills is well shown in the preceding sketch, taken from a point in the valley of
the creek, which at that time was quite dry.

NEL, PERE
POINTED OUTCROPS OF SANDSTONE.

At another point not far distant from that represented in the sketch, and much nearer the
granite, the strata rise up in a succession of sharp pinnacles—produced by weathering—and are
inclined away from the granite. The prevailing dip of the strata is about 45°, and they do not
present any appearance of metamorphism by heat or great pressure. They have a modern look,
and their barren and singular surfaces present a strange contrast with the green shrubs that
cover the slope of the adjoining granite. This formation is unlike that which forms the bluff
at the summit, being more even in texture, harder, and apparently uncomformable in stratifica-
tion. Thestrata are ‚however, of a light color, and are not very firmly consolidated, but in many
places are soft and friable, and have a light reddish or pink color, which may be caused by the
large amount of pink feldspar that they contain. The beds seem chiefly composed of sand and _
angular gravel, derived from the attrition and wearing of granite and the allied rocks. Some
of the beds are compact sandstone, very uniform in texture, and others are conglomerates, fre-
quently containing large rounded boulders of granite and other rocks. It will be seen that,
lithologically, they resemble the strata of the summit, and at first I was inclined to consider
them as one formation, but the tilted strata are undoubtedly older than the recent or drift
deposits of the slope, and underlie them ; but where the strata are not disturbed, it would be
difficult to distinguish between the two. The sandstones vary but little in composition ; there
are no shales or other strata that simulate the sandstones of the vicinity of San Francisco and
Benicia ; their color and appearance are entirely different. I searched in vain for any fossils.
I also looked for outerops of intrusive volcanic rocks, to which the present highly tilted condi-
tion of the strata could be referred, but was unsuccessful.

The granite appears to have been disturbing rock, but no indications of a local intrusion were
seen.' The ridges were, however, examined only at their bases, it being impossible to carry
the observations far beyond the trail. The whole bulk of the sandstone formation is insignifi-
cant when compared with the adjoining granite ridges, which rise from one to three thousand
feet above the outcrops of the strata. It is highly probable that this formation is Tertiary, and
that it corresponds with the sandstone of Williamson's Pass and the Pass of San Francisquito ;

88 | GEOLOGY.

büt, as yet, there is no evidence of this, other than mineral composition and appearance, A
further examination is highly desirable.

Granite.—Outcrops of sandstone, similar to those described, are found along the trail for
seven or eight miles below the summit. The valley then grows more narrow, and the stream
cafions in granite rocks, which rise in high mountains on each side. These granites are both
compact and gneissose, and are associated with the talcose slates, traversed by quartz veins,
similar to those oecurring at the Pass of San Francisquito. Erupted trappean rock was observed
in connexion with these formations. This part of the valley was passed in the night, and it
was therefore impossible to make detailed observations on the varieties and peculiarities of the
granitic rocks.

In the upper part of the pass, nearest to the Great Basin, the dry bed of the stream, that
flows in considerable volume in the rainy season, is strewed with boulders of white lime-
stone, veined with blue; these indicate the existence of a parent mass in the vicinity.

Slope of drift.—On approaching the valley of San Bernardino a bank of loose drift-soil and
rocks is seen along the base of the mountain on the left. This is a remnant of the former slope
that stretched from one side of the valley to the other, and was connected with those bounding
the Santa Anna river on the west. It has gradually been moved by the excavating power of
the stream, and the material has been carried down to form a new slope below, now a portion
of the valley of San Bernardino. Abundance of good stone for purposes of construction can be
obtained in the central portions of the pass. The principal timber along the road is plane tree
and oak, but pine can be procured from the high, sheltered cations. Near the summit, various
interesting shrubs were seen; the mancinita, with its brilliant red bark, being conspicuous.
The wild plum was also abundant, and a species of aloe (maguey) was occasionally found. A
beautiful oak with enormously large acorns, similar to those seen in the Tejon Pass, grows by
the road side, and was loaded with fruit." Many of the plants which seemed to be peculiar to
the Great Basin were seen in this pass, and contrasted with the vegetation common to the
Pacific slope. This distribution has probably resulted from the fact that there is no crest or
elevated ridge to separate the Basin from the waters of the creek, and many of the shrubs or
their seeds may have been floated down by the stream. ۱

This pass and the old Spanish trail is now principally used by the Mormons and other
emigrants from the Salt Lake to Southern California. It was through this pass that great
numbers of horses and cattle were formerly driven out into the Great Basin by bands of Pai-Ute
Indians, who entered the valley by night and were safely back again through the pass with
their spoils before morning. Itis said that another pass, nearly parallel with this, but much
more rugged and steep, is found about three miles to the westward, and is called “El Cajon de
los Negros.”

: Drawings of the leaves and fruit of this oak, and specimens of each, have been submitted to Dr. Torrey. He has determined
it to be a new species, and named it Quercus crassipocula.

LILADEER LLL

SAN BERNARDINO TO THE COLORADO DESERT— COLORADO DESERT
TO CARRIZO CREEK AND WARNER'S VALLEY.

SAN BERNARDINO OR SAN GORGOÑO PASS.—SALT ON THE BORDERS OF THE SANTA ANNA.— WEAVER'S RANCHO.—SUMMIT.—SAN
GORGONO MOUNTAIN.—GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC ROCKS.—ROCKS CUT BY DRIVING SAND.—PREVAILING WIND.—METAMOR-

PHIC ROCKS.—SECTION.—ABSENCE OF VEGETATION.—LIMESTONE.— HOT SPRING.—PALM TREE.—ÜACTACEE.—DRIFTING SAND.—
BARLEY FIELD.—D BEP WELL.— SAND HILES.—BLUE CLAY FORMING A HARD SURFACE. EM ON THE ROCKS.—CALCARE-
OUS INCRUSTATION.—EVIDENCES OF AN ANCIENT LAKE.—SMALL SHELLS OF FRESH-WATER SPECIES.—COHUILLA INDIANS.—VIL-

LAGES AND SPRINGS.— TRADITION OF A GREAT SHEET OF WATER COVERING THE VALLEY.—SALINE INCRUSTATIONS. rum OF THE

DESERT.—CLEARNESS OF THE AIR.—SHADOWS OF THE MOUNTAINS.—SLOPE BORDERING THE MOUNTAINS.— BOTTOM OF THE ANCIENT
LAKE.—RAVINES IN THE CLAY. — OUTCROPS OF STRATA HOLDING CONCRETIONS. —ÜONCRETIONS. — MIRAGE. —SALT CREEK.—SHELLS.—
SILICIFIED WOOD.— SAND DRIFTS.—DRIFT OF VOLCANIC ROCKS.— HORIZONTAL STRATA OF CARRIZO CREEK.——AGAVE.— PALM
SPRINGS. — V ALLECITO. — GNEISS AND MICA SLATE.— VEGETATION.—SAN FELIPE.—INDIANS.—RAIN.—WARNER’S PASS.—OAK TREES
AND GRASS.—W ARM SPRINGS —GRANITE.

November 12.— We left our camp near the mill in the valley of San Bernardino, and, crossing
the Santa Anna river, proceeded eastward towards a wide pass in the mountains, which had not
been explored. The river bottom of the Santa Anna was very broad at this point, and much of
the surface was covered with “* salt grass," and in some places the earth was impregnated with
salts, which formed thick crusts or coatings. The bed of the river is sandy, and a considerable
deposit of sand is found along the stream on both banks. We soon reached the ruins of the old
church, or rancho, located on slightly elevated ground, and overlooking the whole valley towards
the east." It is surrounded by a broad area of excellent farming land, and a row of old trees, set
thickly together, extends in a straight line for three-quarters of a mile or more along the
bank of an ascequia. The building is made of adobes, but is now in ruins; a part of it, how-
ever, is occupied as a farm-house and a granary.

After procuring several thousand pounds of barley, we again travelled eastward. The ground
from this point was gently ascending, and a part of the time we travelled along the bed of a
small brook. We encamped in a wide grassy valley, without trees, within sight of a solitary
house on a slight eminence, known as “ Young Weaver's."'

SAN BERNARDINO OR SAN GORGONO PASS.

The Pass of San Bernardino? is about twenty-five miles east of the Mormon settlement of San
Bernardino, and leads from that beautiful valley into the valley of the Colorado desert. By
reference to the map, it will be seen that it crosses the mountains just south of San Bernardino
mountain, at the angle formed by the meeting of the Bernardino Sierra with another chain
which extends off towards the south, and forms the peninsula of Lower California, terminating

! This rancho belonged to the Mission of San Gabriel, and a church was erected upon it. ien Mofras ii, 351.

* I use the name San Bernardino in these ese descriptions in preference to San Gorgoño, because the pass is at the base of San
Bernardino mountain, and leads into the valley of San Bernardino. The name thus serves to a its locality.
12 ۳

90 GEOLOGY.

at Cape St. Lucas. The following descriptions are accompanied by a geological section, which
will serve to give a general view of the geology. The profile is taken from the barometrical
observations of the Survey. The outline and summit of Bernardino mountain is sketched in
with its estimated elevation of about 9,000 feet. This mountain is on the north side of the
Pass, and San Gorgofio mountain on the south.

November 13.—Leaving the camp near the house of Mr. Weaver, jr., we ascended the valley
of a stream which has cut its way downwards below the general level of the slope. High banks
of sedimentary accumulations bounded our way on the right and on the left. These are un-
consolidated, and appear very recent, simulating those of the slopes of the Great Basin. No
regularly stratified and firm sandstone was seen ; the materials seemed to be irregularly strati-
fied and generally coarse. They were not, however, closely inspected, the favorable exposures
being at a distance from the trail. The ascent continued very gradual; at length a short hill
brought us to the edge of a broad and gently sloping plain, upon which an adobe house is built.
This, although partly in ruins, was occupied by Mr. Weaver, well known as an experienced
mountaineer. He is the claimant of a large rancho at this place. The presence of fruit trees
and other evidences of cultivation showed that the rancho had been in use for many years, and
it is said that the occupants have several times been driven away by the Indians. The situation
of this rancho, and the house, is such as one would least expect, being at the summit of the pass.

We passed a few miles beyond the house, and encamped on the eastern slope of the pass, at
the side of a small mountain stream descending from the peak of San Bernardino. The banks
of the stream at that point were high, and were composed of drift or detritus; no outerops of
granite or hard rocks were visible along its channel. The hills on the left at the northeast were
rounded, and appeared to be sedimentary.

We had thus ascended without any difficulty from the valley of San Bernardino to the sum-
mit-level of the pass, and we found it entirely different in its character and appearance from any
that were examined in the Sierra Nevada or the Bernardino Sierra. It can hardly be considered
as a low ridge of the mountains, but appears as an absolute break or dislocation of the entire
chain. It is wide and open, bounded on one side by the snow-capped Bernardino mountains,
and on the other by the sharp, imposing’ peak of San Gorgoño. The distance, north and south,
between these mountains at the divide is from two to three miles, and the lowest ground
appears to be at the base of San Gorgono. The ascent to the highest point from the Bernar-
dino valley is gradual, and, as we have seen, over grounds capable of cultivation, and already
occupied by farms and large cattle ranchos.

There are no rock formations that crop out along the trail; the whole substratum of the soil
is loose drift, or sedimentary materials derived from the wearing down and disintegration of
granite. At several places between the old ruins and the summit-level there are many rem-
nants of a former extended slope, which once must have been united with those already described
as flanking the base of the mountains at the Cajon Pass, and from which the present valley of
San Bernardino has been excavated by the action of streams. The soil, formed by the minerals
constituting the slope and the surface of the pass, is fertile and valuable for agriculture even at
the summit.

November 14.—The camp-ground was well shaded by numerous trees growing along the
brook ; but a little further down the stream all the trees disappeared, and the water was fully
exposed to the sun’s rays. As it was thought possible that there might be thermal springs ۲

j
:
11
D.
3
1
3
5

BERNARDINO PASS—ROCKS CUT BY DRIVING SAND. 91

this side of the mountain, as upon the other, the temperature of the stream was observed, and
found to be 57°; air, 60°. This was at sunrise.

San Gorgono Mountain.— We began the descent of the eastern slope towards the Colorado, and
I left the train and crossed over to the south side of the pass to examine the rocks of San Gor-
goño mountain. The height of this mountain was estimated to be between six and seven
thousand feet. It rises abruptly from the pass to a sharp-pointed summit; its base is deeply
cut by numerous re-entering angles, and long, narrow ridges extend from it in various direc-
tions. These radiating ridges have singularly rugged and serrated outlines, and showed out in
bold relief, with sharp edges and angles; and there is but little verdure to hide them from
view. The rocks are granitic and metamorphic, and have peculiar characters, differing from
the granitic rocks of the Sierra Nevada and the Bernardino Sierra, but they simulate those
developed in the ridges of the Great Basin along the Mojave river. The most important pecu-
liarity of the rock consists in its highly laminated condition, and the frequent intercalation of
thin layers or belts of white limestone, conformable with the planes of lamination. At a point
about seven miles distant from Weaver's rancho, and a little east of the divide, I ascertained
the trend of the granite to be N. 5? to 10° W.; and several miles east, lower down the slope,
in a projecting spur, the trend is still more to the west, being nearly N. 40? W. The layers
are vertical. The following is the succession and composition of the rocks:

. 20 feet. —Feldspar and quartz in coarse crystalline masses, containing tourmalines.
40 to 50 feet.—Micaceous and gneissoidal, ees large garnets.

20 feet. —Granite, more compact

20 feet. —White saccharoidal Hindi, with —m layers of a dark color.

15 feet. — Quartz rock.

White, fine-giained granite.

Gneissose

White crystalline limestone.

Granite, or gneiss, (much mica.)

SO pam ANR

This projecting spur is nearly northwest from the peak of the mountain, and is the first part
of the mountain that extends far out into the pass.

Rocks cut by driving sand.—A deep bank of drifted sand has وت‎ on the east side of
this point of rocks, it having been blown over by the wind. The wind which thus transports
the sand is not an ordinary shifting breeze, but is a constant and powerful current of air
sweeping through the pass from the west. It pours in from the Pacific in an apparently
unbroken, unvarying stream, passing over the surface with such violence that all the fine grains
of sand are lifted from the dry channels of the streams, and are driven along the descending
slope until they find a final resting place to the leeward of the projecting spurs of San Gorgoño.
In respect to this prevailing eurrent of air flowing inland from the Pacific, the pass appears to
have the same relation to the interior valley of the Colorado that is held by the Golden Gate at
San Francisco to the interior valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin. They both appear to
be great draught-channels from@he ocean to the interior, through which the air flows with
peculiar uniformity and persistence, thus supplying the partial vacuum caused by the ascent of
heated air from the surface of the parched plains and deserts.!

I had before me remarkable and interesting proofs of the persistence and direction of this air-
current, not only in the fact that the deep sand-drift was on the east side of the spur, but in
the record which the grains of sand engrave on the rocks in their transit from one side to the

IE ie very desirable that meteorological observations should be made at this pass. There are, doubtless, strongly
marked periodi cal variations in the direction and force of this great air-current.

ی N‏ نو
V DU AES‏

hit ne > Dig 3۵ a TRA Cg SD A

92 ` GEOLOGY.

other. It would be difficult to find a place where the cutting power of drifting sand is more
beautifully and clearly exhibited than it is at this point. The whole surface of the rocks was
smooth and polished, and even the limestone had a peculiar, ronnded and smooth surface, which
resembled that of partly dissolved crystals, or deliquescent specimens of rock-salt. Long
parallel grooves, deep enough to receive a lead-pencil, were cut on the surface of the hard and
homogeneous granite. But the most striking and interesting examples were the effects produced
on the portions of granite that were composed of large crystals of feldspar, quartz, and tourmaline,
and also containing small imbedded garnets. "These masses of minerals, differing in their
hardness, were unequally cut away. The feldspar, being the softest, was most rapidly acted
on, and even the quartz and garnets were unequally abraded, the amount of wear on each
mineral being in the order of its hardness. "The masses of quartz, tourmaline, and garnet thus
acted as protectors to the portions of feldspar behind and under them, while the exposed parts
were most rapidly chiseled out by the sharp grains, leaving the harder minerals standing in
relief, or with the feldspar standing even with their surfaces on the lee side only, thus forming,
in minature, a kind of tail, similar to the accumulations of earth and stones on the lee side of
obstructions in a current of water.

The effects produced on the vertical surfaces of the rock exposed to the wind were, perhaps, the
most curious and interesting, for here the hard minerals were left standing out in points, the
softer feldspar being cut out on all sides. Masses of feldspar and quartz thus presented very
rough and uneven surfaces. A part of the rock, which was detached, is represented in the
annexed figure—the projecting points being quartz, and the mass of the specimen feldspar ; the
whole having a beautifully smooth surface.

ROCK, CUT BY DRIVING SAND.

`

Direction of the wind ——— وھ‎

Where the feldspar was charged with small garnets, and was directly in front of the wind, 8
very peculiar result was produced ; the garnets were left standing in relief, mounted on the
ends of long pedicles of feldspar which had been protected from abrasion under the garnets
while the surrounding parts were cut away. These pointed masses or needles of feldspar,
tipped with garnets, stood qut from the body of the rock in horizontal lines, pointing, like
jewelled fingers, in the directien of the prevailing wind. They form, in reality, a perfect index
of the wind’s direction, recording it with as much accuracy hs the oak trees in the vicinity of
San Francisco, where, if the wind reaches them, they are bent from the perpendicular in one
direction only, or in some places lie trailed along the ground. All the little points of stone
pointed westward in the direction of the valley of the pass, to which the wind conforms.’

We continued travelling to the southeast, and downwards over the broad slope of the pass,

"A more extended notice of these phenomena of drifting sand and sand-polished rocks was communicated to the Ameri

n for the Advancement of Science at Wieder in 1855, and will be found in the Proceedings. See also
Jour. Science, second series, vol. xx xx, September, 185

SAN GORGONO—METAMORPHIC ROCKS. 93

following the shallow bed of a brook in which water was flowing rapidly, but without trees or
much vegetation on its banks. It appeared as if it had been entirely dry for the greater part
of the summer. On reaching ‘the next extended spur of San Gorgoño, we encamped on the
eastern or lower side, in order to avoid the strong wind which continued to blow without cessa-
tion. A considerable quantity of sand was found here also, and on the lee side of the rocks.
The point was long and low, and the rocks were perfectly bare and very much broken. It was
composed of a succession of granitic, gneissose and slaty rocks, intercalated with limestone and
quartz rock, similar to those before described. The trend of the planes of structure was found
to be the same, (N. W. and S. E.,) dip N. E., about 40°. The peculiar laminated structure,
and constant alternation of gneiss and mica slate, with narrow layers of limestone, was well
shown. All these layers were much contorted and bent, and were traversed by numerous felds-
pathic veins. An extended sketch-section was made of this point of rocks, and a portion of it
is presented here, and will serve to indicate the characteristics of the rock.

SECTION ON THE EAST SIDE OF SAN GORGONO.

8 l g s g l l SE
1, l, l, limestone; g, g, granite, or feldspathic veins; s, s, s, gneiss, mica slate and granite.

The limestone formed lenticular beds, from one to eight or ten feet in thickness, conformable
with the slaty rock, and partaking of its flexures and contortions. The slight thickness of these
beds, and their lenticular form, led me to regard some of them, at least, as segregations. There
was not time before dark to make measurements of the breadth of the different layers of rock,
and indeed it would scarcely be possible to do it, as the variations between the compact and
granitic portions, and the gneiss and finely laminated mica slates, were very gradual, and no
distinct lines of demarcation could be found. |

'The stream of water flowed at the base of the rocks in a shallow bed of sand and gravel, and
not a tree or blade of grass was visible on its banks. A short distance below, it spread out
over the gravelly surface, and became completely absorbed by the sand. Our camp was near
the piles of drifted sand, and the wind continued to blow through the night, and brought with
it the grains of sand, making a rustling sound as they poured over the rocks and settled in all
the hollows and crevices which the wind could not reach.

We had travelled twenty-two miles from the summit, and were nearly at the base of the pass,
or at about the same elevation as the valley of the Santa Anna river at San Bernardino.

November 15.—The aspect of the country around the camp was peculiarly dreary and desert-
like; towards the east and southeast a broad plain extended, and was bounded in the distance
by brown and barren-looking mountains. They are represented in the engraving, but appear
too near, and the plain too narrow. Grass and vegetation among the rocks, and clouds in the

sky, have also been added by mistake. It is seldom .that an artist is called upon to picture a
- scene so barren and desolate. The timber upon the mountains gradually disappears after passing
the summit of the pass, and none is found on the eastern or inland side. Huge specimens of
the melo-cactus were, however, abundant among the rocks.

We travelled southeasterly over the now broad and plain-like slope of the pass, and continued
to descend. Several spurs of San Gorguño were passed in succession ; they extend out for a

d PR RE n run

94 Gi "GEOLOGY.

great distance from the mass of the mountain, which thus appears furrowed by rugged and pıe-
cipitous cafions. Each spur, as far as examined, presented rocks similar to those already
described, the trend also being northwest and southeast, and the dip about forty degrees. The
rocks appeared in jagged points all over the mountain, and no soil or vegetation could be seen.
Large beds of limestone were, however, observed, much thicker and more extensive than the
exposures seen before. It rests in inclined beds, conformably with the gneiss or mica slate, and
is belted or marked by bands and lines in the same direction. "Thin seams or veins of granite

VIEW i pn ME THE DESERT.
and of quartz were also seen in parallel layers. Crystallizations of hornblende and other
minerals were observed at the line of junction of the beds with the granitic masses. This lime-
stone is granular and crystalline, and is more or less blue, and is not as white and coarsely
crystalline as the metamorphic limestones of New Jersey and New York.

i COLORADO DESERT.

The ground over which we passed was gravelly and sandy. The sand was coarse, for all the
finer particles had been removed by the wind. A range of hills, at the base of the mountains
on the left, distant about ten miles, appeared to be composed entirely of sand, its surface bein
drifted into ridges. i

Hot Spring.— After travelling about seven and a halt miles over these long and barren slopes;
we saw a green spot in the distance, and soon came to two large springs of water rising in the
bare plain, not far from the foot of the mountain. (See map.) One of these springs is warm,

COLORADO DESERT—SPRINGS AND WELLS. 95

and forms a pool nearly thirty feet in diameter, and three to four feet deep. The cold spring is
not quite so large, and is only ten feet distant from the other. The water stands at the same
level in each, and probably commingles, so that, on the side adjoining the warm spring, there
i vt little difference in the temperature, one being 120°, and the other 82? F. A constant
okur of sulphuretted hydrogen rises from the water, and pails painted with white lead were
turned black by it.

This place was evidently a favorite camping-ground for Indians. When we arrived, many
Indian boys and girls were bathing in the warm spring, and a group of squaws were engaged
in cooking a meal m a party returning from a great feast held near Weaver's ranch, and now
just terminated.

A growth of rushes forms a narrow margin of green vegetation around the spring and its
outlet. Willows and mezquite bushes grow there also; and I found a young palm tree spreading
its broad, fan-like leaves among them. The surrounding desert, and this palm tree, gave the
stene an Oriental aspect; and the similarity was made still more striking by the groups of
Arab-like Indians.

The ground about the springs was raised so that a slight bank was formed around them.
This bank may have been formed by the accumulation of sand around the moist earth, and
among the roots of the plants and grass; orit possibly was thrown up by the springs, or by
the Indians in cleaning them out.

We encamped at this place, not knowing how far we would be obliged to travel before water
would again be reached.

November 16.— Hot Spring to. Deep Well, 12 miles.—A slight dew was deposited on the
blankets during the night, but this was probably local, and derived from the warm vapor of the
spring, The water was covered with a cloud of condensed vapor, and its temperature at sun-
rise was only 86°, the air being 46°. It is thus affected by the changes in the temperature of
the air, the supply not being very rapid. The barometer indicated an elevation of less than
two hundred feet above the sea.

On leaving the green banks of this spring, we again traversed the bare and gravelly surface,
and skirted the base of the mountains on the right. The rocks were much broken and piled
together in confusion, the absence of soil and vegetation permitting every inequality to be
seen. At one point these rocks were found to be composed of quartz, hornblende, and feldspar,
in nearly equal proportions, forming a compact granite. The quartz and feldspar are disposed
in small rounded grains, enclosed in thin films of mica. This gives a structural character to
the mass, and determines a line of easy fracture. The trend of the planes of structure was
northwest and southeast (magnetic.)

The whole aspect of the landscape was peculiarly dreary, and but little or no vegetation was
visible. Numerous varieties of the cactacere began to make their appearance, giving a peculiar
tropieal character to the scene. Some of these piede were tall and cylindrical, four or five feet
high, and grooved longitudinally. x

Several drifts, and broad thin layers of blown sand were passed. The accumulations vary in
depth from a few inches to fifteen feet; and the surfaces are beautifully smooth and rounded,
and generally covered with ripple-marks, similar to those produced under water. As we pro-
ceeded, we found this sand rising into high drifts, which bounded our vision on the left, while
on the right, the base of the mountains was not far distant. A narrow, but nearly level valley
was thus formed. The soil appeared to contain a large portion of clay mingled with the sand,

pui E
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96 GEOLOGY.

and several low places, where water had been standing, were covered with a thin coat of fine
clay, now cracked and curled up. Near one of these low places, we found the remains of an
Indian bush-house, and the stubble of a barley-field. This barley had been raised at the foot
of one of the highest sand-drifts. The sand was thus found to rest upon a substratum of cien
and beyond the field it was found to have a bluish-gray color, and to be very compact and hard,

The Indian guide conducted us over this surface of clay to ‘‘Pozo hondo,’’ or Deep Well, a deep
excavation in the clay made by the Indians to obtain water. It was at the base of a high sand-
drift, and about twenty-five feet deep, but contained only a little water. It was wide at the
top, but became smaller towards the bottom, being a funnel-shaped depression. The water was
obtained by means of steps cut in the sides of the pit, the clay having hardened by drying so as
to become like stone. This excavation appeared to have been made by the hands of Indians,
for there were no marks of implements, and the clay that had been removed appeared to have
heen taken out while very moist and plastic. It is probable that it has been gradually formed,
a little clay being taken out every season, or as often as the water failed or became very low?
The soil for the whole depth of the well consisted entirely of fine, bluish clay, with a little sand.
The surface of the ground was nearly level and floor-like, and extended from the base of the
sand-drifts to the mountain, intersecting the rocky ridges with a sharp and well-defined junc-
tion, like that formed by a sheet of water, or the ice on a frozen lake. The opening to the
well was shaded by several mezquite trees, as shown in the sketch.

A c mo می‎
SAN 0 MOUNTAIN, FROM DEEP WELL.

The peak of San Gorgorio rises in the back ground, the pass being on the right, over the line
of sand-hills in the foreground. .
We encamped, and beforc the mules were satisfied with water, it was all exhausted. It oozed

WATER LINE AND SHORES OF THE ANCIENT LAKE

(COLORADO DESERT.)

WATER-LINE ON THE ROCKS—-ANCIENT LAKE, 97

in through the clay very slowly, but appeared to be abundant ; about twenty buckets full were
obtained in the course of the night.

November 17.—Deep Well to ide Villages, 13 miles.—Sand hills were observed on the left,
or north of the trail, for three or four miles beyond the Deep Well, and formed a succession of
low, rolling hills, or long drifts. For the greater part of the distance this sand did not extend
to the rocks on the right; thus a clear space was left over which we travelled. The hard floor-
like surface of the clay formed a good road for our wagons, which scarcely left the imprint of
the wheels. The sand, in passing over this clay, when driven by the wind, had given the
surface a fine polish by its attrition. The ridge on the right gradually became lower and
appeared to be a spur from the mountains. The sky-outline was very peculiar, being extremely
sharp and irregular, like the teeth of a saw. Such mountains surely merit the name Sierra.
On reaching the end of this ridge, an unlimited view was presented towards the south and east.
The broad plain of the Desert was before us, reaching to the horizon. On the right, it was
bounded by the high mountains which extended down to the plain in successive ridges, one
beyond another, until their blue outlines could hardly be discerned in the distance. l

On turning around the point, I saw a discoloration of the rocks extending for a long distance
ina horizontal line on the side of the mountains. On approaching this, it was found that
the white color was produced by a calcareous incrustation, extending over the whole surface,
and into every cavity and crevice. This crust had evidently been deposited under water, and,
when seen at a distance of a few. yards, its upper margin appeared to form a distinct line, which
indicated the former level of the water under which it was deposited. This water-line, at the
point where it was first observed, was only about fifteen feet above the general level of the clay,
but it could be traced along the mountain sides, following all the angles and sinuosities of the
ridges for many miles—always preserving its horizontality—sometimes being high up above
the plain, and again intersecting long and high slopes of gravel and sand; on such places a
beach-line be could traced. These evidences of a former submergence were so vivid and con-
clusive that it became evident to every one in the train that we were travelling in the dry bed
of a former deep and extended sheet of water, probably an Ancient Lake or an extensive bay.

The shore-line upon our right was distinct and well marked by the incrustation, but the
opposite shore or boundary ofthe former lake could not be so readily determined ; it must have
been as far removed as the mountains on the other side of the plain, nearly fifteen miles distant.
Portions of the calcareous crust were broken off from the rock and found to be cellular and
easily crumbled, showing that the deposition had not proceeded by successive layers or crusts
conforming to the surface. In the interstices of the incrustation, and in its mass, many small
Spiral shells were found ; they were also very abundant upon the surface of the clay, at the
foot of the rocks, appearing to have been blown into heaps by the wind. They were so numerous
in some places as to whiten the ground. Five or six species of the genera, Planorbis, Anodonta,
Physa, and Amnicola, were soon collected, and showed that the former lake was of fresh water.
These shells were not only on the surface but were imbedded in theclay. They were all white,
being perfectly bleached, and were very perfect."

The barometer at the well, having stood at about thirty inches, indicated that we were not
much elevated above the level of the sea ; ; and the surface had gently descended from that camp
to this point of rocks and appeared descending beyond as far as wecould see. The view in the

For a “Article of these shells, and others found on the Desert, see the results of the examination by Dr. A. A. Gould,
Appendix, Article III.
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98 GEOLOGY.

direction of the Colorado river and the head of the California gulf being unbroken by mountains,
it at first seemed as if the water had formerly extended up as far as this water-line and that we
were then, perhaps, below the level of the sea, or that theregion had been upraised so as to effect
. its drainage.

The valley or plain of the Desert was constantly expanding towards the southeast, the
direction in which we continued to travel. The bounding ranges of mountains, limiting
our view towards the north and northeast, gradually became more distant and less distinctly
defined. A horizontal line, the beach-line of the former lake, was visible along their base.
The surface of the desert appeared to descend by a gentle slope from the mountains on each
side, the lowest ground thus being nearly midway between the ranges.

We passed several Indian trails, and about noon met an Indian family travelling in the oppo-
site direction. The young men came first, carrying bows and arrows and an old flint lock
musketoon; an old Indian and squaw followed, bearing the burdens. They stopped with sur-
prise as we came up, and unrolling some rags from a great yellow ball invited us to eat. This
proved to be made of the pounded beans and pods of the mezquite, which is an important article
of food to them, but prepared in that way, and partly fermented, was not a very agreeable
refreshment to us. The adjoining valleys in the mountains and the upper portions of the slope
of the Desert are inhabited by a tribe of Indians called Cohuillas. Up to the time of our arrival
their country had never been visited by the whites with a train of wagons. As we approached

some of their villages, we passed several holes dug in the clay, two or three feet deep, that con- |

tained water, and were evidently springs that the Indians had enlarged. The largest and best
of these springs were surrounded by extensive rancherias, or villages of huts, located in thick
groves of mezquit trees, which were quite abundant, and grew so thickly together that the
Indian huts were completely hid. The Indians came out in great numbers to meet us, some of
them well mounted on horses, but most of them on foot. The women and children were also
attracted by curiosity, but were very shy ; many of them climbed to the tops of elevated plat-
forms, where they appear to store their grain and melons, and thus obtained a good view of the
long train as it passed to one of the springs where the grass was most abundant. We encamped
at this place and were surrounded by crowds of Indians anxious to trade melons, squashes, corn,
and barley, for pork, bacon, or other articles.

The chief, or “capitan,” and the principal men having collected for a talk with Lieutenant
Parke, they learned the object of our visit, and appeared much pleased. "When questioned about
the shore-line and water marks of the ancient lake, the chief gave an account of a tradition
they have of a great water (agua grande) which covered the whole valley and was filled with
fine fish. "There was also plenty of geese and ducks. Their fathers lived in the mountains and
used to come down to the lake to fish and hunt. The water gradually subsided “ poco,"
“poco,” (little by little,) and their villages were moved down from the mountains, into the
valley it had left. They also said that the waters once returned very suddenly and overwhelmed
many of their people and drove the rest back to the mountains. The vegetation around these
springs was luxuriant, and wherever the clay was moistened, it supported either a growth of
grass or of rank weeds. Saline incrustations were observed around the margin of the water,
and on moist parts of the surface, some distance from it. Specimens were collected, (No. 261,
of the catalogue,) and on examination are found to consist chiefly of common salt, with a por"
tion of sulphate vf soda, sulphate of lime, sulphate of magnesia, and carbonate of lime.

November 18.—Cohuilla Villages to Salt Creek—35 miles.—The Indians had a grand feast and

dance during the night, keeping us awake by their strange songs and indescribable noises. At

-

-

SPRINGS IN THE DESERT—CALCAREOUS INCRUSTATION. 99

4 a. m. the temperature of the spring was 56° and the air 52°. Our course was directed towards
a projecting spur of the mountains, supposed to be about ten miles distant. The ground was
principally clay, which by drying in the sun has become very hard, but on being cut and
pulverized by the passing of the train became dusty, like dry ashes. On cutting down into it
for about twelve inches it was found to be more sandy and micaceous, and a specimen was taken
for analysis, (No. 263 of the catalogue.) It appeared to be a rich soil, for wherever water comes
to the surface the vegetation is abundant, and a large area near the mountains was covered with
a dense growth of weeds, the ground being moist.

Eight or nine miles from our camp at the villages we stopped at another spring, where the
water rose to the surface in abundance, and formed a pool twenty feet or more in diameter,
surrounded by an artificial embankment three or four feet high. The water was clear and
good; its temperature at noon was 78°, and there appeared to be a never-failing supply.
Indians were living here also, and appeared to have a good store of grain and melons, which
they had raised in the vicinity. We remained at the spring until three o'clock, to rest the
animals and prepare for a long march over the unknown region between us and Carrizo creek,
where the emigrant road from the Gila enters the mountains. None of the Indians could be
induced to go with us; they were afraid to venture, saying that there was neither grass nor
water, and that we could not take the wagons. The mountains on the right extended off in
spurs or long ridges, one beyond the other, exactly as before observed from the camp at Deep
Well. Carrizo creek was supposed to lie beyond one of the distant spurs, and we travelled
towards it, having taken the precaution to fill all our canteens with water.

About sunset we passed within two miles of a projecting spur of the mountains, upon which
the water-line was remarkably distinct. Although it was evidently high above the general
surface of the plain or slope, it looked as if it could be easily reached, and I left the train to go
and take its altitude with the barometer. On arriving under the rocks 1 was astonished to find
that those which had appeared so small and diminutive, in the distance, were huge masses of
granite, from ten to thirty feet in diameter, piled confusedly together, leaving many large
spaces and long galleries among and between them. The whole surface was covered with
the white incrustation, so that the rock was completely hid from view. At many of the over-
hanging projections of the rocks this incrustation had become detached, by its great weight,
and had fallen down to the foot of the cliff in large blocks. These disclosed the fact that this
calcareous investment was, in some places, nearly two feet in thickness.

The interior portions of this crust, that adjoined the surface of the rock, were more compact
and solid than the outer parts; and, here and there, through the mass, a small spiral shell was
enveloped. The outer parts of the masses were more open, and traversed by an assemblage of
irregular tubes and channels; these extended to the surface in horizontal lines, and produced
a series of irregular and convoluted openings, which give a peculiar coralline aspect to the
mass and cause it to resemble an organic growth. 1 observed, also, that this crust was more
highly developed, and that its thickness was much greater en the under or overhanging
surfaces than an the upper portions of the rocks. It is difficult to give a satisfactory explana-
tion of the cause of this peculiarity, and of the singular form of the outer surface of the crust,
without supposing it to be organic in its origin. Its internal structure is not consistent with
this hypothesis, as it appears to have been deposited in successive coats, one over the other, as
if from waters highly charged with carbonate of lime. The peculiar tubular structure may
have been, and probably was, produced by the roots or stems of aquatic planta. But, even if
this were so, it is difficult to conceive how such extreme regularity should be given to all the

SE Ku MED vr
mee CE > 3 OST ESLE RE

100 GEOLOGY.

tubular openings, and to explain the winding channels separating masses of the crust from
those next adjoining. The sketch (View) was taken a short distance from the point of rocks,
and represents an outlying part of the spur. All the lower part of the outcrop was covered
with the orust so as to present rounded surfaces only, but the upper portion was not covered,
and the black and angular edges of the rocks were distinctly seen. A mass of rock, with a part
of the calcareous crust broken off, has been introduced into the foreground by the artist, so as to
convey an idea of the character and thickness of the deposit.

After clambering over the white crust nearly half-way up to the water-line it was found
impossible to proceed further with the barometer, and it was therefore set up at the base of the
rocks. The height of the mercurial column was found to-be 30.248 inches. This was surpris-
ing, and indicated that we were at or below the level of the sea. The water-line was
estimated to be about 100 feet above us.

When wandering over these great masses of rock, and standing in the once sub-aqueous gal-
leries and passages, with their walls and ceilings of the coral-like crüst, the surfaces looked so
new and fresh that it was not difficult to imagine that I heard the measured swell of the waves
resounding in the dim caverns, and it was impossible to resist a feeling of dread that the great
waters might suddenly return and claim their former sway over the deserted halls.

From these rocks I obtained a fine view of the Great Desert, stretching off towards the south-
east in a wide, apparently limitless, plain, its only boundary the unbroken outline upon the
distant horizon. Not a green spot in all this wide expanse was to be seen ; the bald mountains
near me were not only free from trees, but there was not even earth to cover the rocks. The
mountains opposite extended off towards the east until they were lost to sight in a series of low -
summits of a deep-blue color. The intensity and richness of the colors of the distant hills was
very striking and beautiful. Blue, purple, and red were the prevailing tints, and their clear-
ness and depth were remarkable. They were delicately blended one with the other, and pro-
duced a most beautiful effect, which it is impossible to describe. This variety and intensity of
color appears to be peculiar to that region, and is probably the result of the extreme purity and
dryness of the atmosphere, which may be considered as almost free from the vapor of water. It
is so transparent that small objects can be seen distinctly at extraordinary distances. At the
time I witnessed the extraordinary and beautiful tints of the distant mountains, the sun was
going down behind those on our right, and we were soon enveloped in their shadows. As these
gradually lengthened their outlines were sharply defined on the plain, and their gradual extension
and progress across the valley to and up the sides of the opposite range could be distinctly noted.
The shadows were projected on the surface with a peculiar sharpness, the transition from light
to shade being sudden and distinct. Although the tops of the opposite heights were still gilt
by the declining sun, there was so little reflection and refraction of the light that we Were
almost in darkness.

As soon as the last summit of the opposite range was merged in shadow, a peculiar effect
upon the air overhead was visible. The whole blue vault seemed traversed by bands of light
and shade; in fact, the shadows of the mountains were projected upwards into the air, forming
rays of light and shade, and there was so little diffusion and refraction of the light that they
were distinctly visible. These shadows, although in reality divergent, appeared to gradually
converge until they were united in one point far off in tho blue depths of the air, thus afford-
ing a sublime illustration of the laws of perspective.

Slope bordering the Mountains.—During the night we travelled over a long slope from the

۴

U.S.P R.R. EXP & SURVEYS,CAL.

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GEOLOGY PLATE VIII.

POINT OF ROCKS COVERED WITH A

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Ancient Lake Colorado

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SLOPE BORDERING TAE MOUNTAINS—RAVINES IN THE CLAY. 101

mountains, which was composed of gravel and boulders. Portions of it were undoubtedly of
recent formation, and had been spread out by heavy floods from the cañons of the mountains.
There were, however, large areas of surface that were evidently in the same condition as when
left by the water of the former lake. On these portions, rounded boulders and large masses of
rock were so thickly spread that the wagons could not pass over them. These were all in-

crusted on the upper or exposed portions with a dark-brown crust, evidently very different `

from the white variety that incrusted the shores. Some parts of this crust was of a dark-red
color, and very hard. I turned over many of the rocks, and found that generally the incrusta-
tion did not extend below the surface of the gravel and clay in which they were imbedded. I
was evidently standing on the bottom of the old lake, and but little or no change had taken
place since the waters had retired. From the appearance of this slope, and the rocky character
of the bottom, and the absence of the fine blue clay that forms the greater part of the surface
of the old lake-bed, I was led to believe that strong currents from the adjoining mountains and
cañons had entered the old lake near this point.

Ravines in the Clay.—The rugged and rocky character of the higher parts of this slope made
it necessary to descend with the wagons to the more level and hard surface of the clay. Here,
other impediments to our progress eonstantly occurred. The rains or floods from the moun-
tains, in traversing the surface, had cut deep ravines, which extended for miles directly across
our course. These were about as deep as their width, and their sides were vertical. They
resembled great fissures rather than valleys of excavation. In some places they were so
narrow that it seemed almost possible to jump from one side to the other, and yet they were
from twenty to thirty feet deep.

These singular cuts in the clay are formed at numerous points along the slope from the
mountains. Many of the ravines commence and attain their greatest depth within a distance
of three or four hundred yards. Their upper portions consist of multitudes of diverging chan-
nels, spreading out like the branches of a tree. The water collected by these branches becomes
concentrated in the principal ravine, and after flowing for a short distance it passes out upon a

lower part of the slope, and again diverges into small channels. "This was the general character

of the ravines that we crossed, and several of them were miles in length, and so deep as to be

^

impassable except at their upper and lower ends, where the depth is not great. It is probable -

that these deep cuts in the clay are formed by a sudden flood of water from the mountains, or
perhaps, by unusual rains during the winter. We lost much time and expended much labor
on these ravines ; it was necessary to find a place where the wagons could be taken down into
them, and then to find a convenient point at which to construct a road to draw them out on the
other side. "The bed of a small tributary, or side fissure, was generally selected, and leveled by
shovels so that the mules could be driven up and down.

The vertical walls of these ravines were of fine clay in horizontal strata, sometimes mingled
with sand, and varying in color from a grayish-blue to a light red ; one or two layers of coarser
materials, pebbles, &c., were observed in the upper parts of some of the sections, but may have
been laid down by surface floods since the lake was drained. Multitudes of small spiral shells,
like those found near Deep Well, were also visible, imbedded in the strata : but no specimens of
Planorbis were seen.

We travelled among these ravines until after midnight, and the men and animals being
exhausted, we lay down on the hard clay to sleep until daylight.

November 19.—Daylight showed that we had nearly reached the point of the mountains

RSS CEU DS MEINT SON EPOR

RITA AE TED SLSR EN, RIE EL AE

102 GEOLOGY.

towards which we had directed our course. We therefore, on starting, turned more to the right,
expecting to turn the point and find Carrizo creek and the emigrant trail. We were, however,
disappointed, and then kept on towards the next point. We soon found a change in the color
of the soil, and left the bluish and reddish clay, and found a low ridge, formed of the upraised
edges of a sedimentary strata, consisting of sandstones and clays, outcropping with great regu-
larity, and extending in a direction twenty-five degrees west of north for a long distance.

These strata were mostly of fine clays of different colors, varying from grey to yellow, red,
and pink. "They were very thinly and regularly stratified, and altogether showed a thickness
of over two thousand feet. "These strata were filled with concretionary or nodular masses of all
conceivable shapes and sizes. These were not only found in the sandy strata, but were also de-
veloped in the argillaceous beds in great number and variety.

CONCRETIONS, COLORADO DESERT.

The figures represent some of the forms that were procured. These curious and singular
masses were found lying in long parallel lines upon the surface, being derived from the out-
cropping edges of the strata. One of the more sandy beds furnished great spherical nodules as
large as ten-pin balls or bomb-shells. Some of the balls were connected together by & smaller
sphere, which made them resemble dumb-bells. Other strata produced long, elliptical masses
or cylinders, pointed at each end. The more clayey and finer sediments contained flattened
ellipsoids, or kidney-shaped masses, and oblate spheroids of various colors, possessing a fine and
smooth surface, which becomes polished by a little rubbing.

CONCRETIONS LYING IN LINES ON THE SURFACE.

Some of these masses were true septaria, and, when broken, exhibited numerous ramifying fis-
sures, lined with crystals of carbonate of lime. Such was the variety of forms displayed on the
surface, that it was not difficult to find specimens resembling various fruits and vegetables, fancy
pastry, and confectionery. In nearly all of these strange and irregular forms the original planes
of stratification were distinctly visible.

The greater part of the edges of these inclined strata were worn down to the general level of
the slope, and we travelled over them ; a portion, however, rose into a hill of slight elevation,
and on its sides and top the calcareous incrustation was distinctly developed. Thus the Ancient
lake registered its existence upon upraised Tertiary or Secondary strata, as well as upon the

granite. We travelled nearly all day upon these strata, for the greater part of the time follow-
ing the outcropping edges ; but towards evening the road became so rough, and the prospect of
a passage for the wagons in the hills beyond was so slight, that we retraced our way for two OF
three miles, and turned towards the north, crossing all the strata in succession. Their dip ۴۶

MIRAGE—CLEARNESS OF THE AIR—FOSSILS. 108

northerly, or from the mountains towards the low valley of the desert. Several of the beds
were strongly colored by peroxide of iron; and gypsum, in clear plates, (selenite,) abounded in
one of the lowest. No fossils could be found, but the strata were evidently comparatively
recent, and are probably Tertiary.

As night came on, a mirage was seen in the direction of the Colorado river; the distant moun-
tains loomed up with curious outlines. We were almost exhausted from exertion and want of
water. The poor mules began to fail, and cried out in their peculiar, plaintive manner, evi-
dently desiring water. As we neared the foot of the slope of the sedimentary strata, we found
sand drifted into hills and banks like snow-drifts. These extended for a long distance on our
left, and we travelled around and among them until we were suddenly stopped at the brink of
a deep ravine, with precipitous banks of clay like those we had passed the previous night. Nu-
merous specimens of Anodonta were found on the surface. It being nearly dark, it was decided
to rest the animals until the moon arose before we attempted to cut a roadway down the sides of
the chasm. At half past ten in the evening we succeeded, after great difficulty, in getting the
train over, and then directed our course for another projecting range of hills, dimly visible by
moonlight in the distance. The route was smooth, with the exception of an occasional drift ot
sand, for about three miles, and then we found a second great ravine, which caused considerable
delay.

The extreme purity and clearness of the atmosphere on this desert becomes strikingly evident
at night. The sky remained unclouded ; and the stars shone out with that number and bril-
liance so characteristic of clear, frosty nights in the north ; and the moon rose above the horizon
with a clear, round disc, apparently unmodified by any vapors near the ground.

We travelled steadily along, all night, but found no signs of the emigrant road. Every hour
became precious, for the mules were nearly exhausted ; many had given out; and it became
evident that the wagons and all heavy articles must soon be abandoned, in order to press for-
ward for water. About four o'clock in the morning a change in the atmosphere was perceived ;
there was an occasional dampness, or sudden coolness, together with the odor of vegetable
decomposition. These whiffs of cool, damp air were mingled with the dry, warm breezes of the
Desert, and could be readily distinguished from them. The mules of the train were the first to
recognize these indications of the proximity of water, and they became animated and pressed
forward with eagerness. The riding mules pricked their ears and snuffed the air, while those
that had been allowed to run loose in the rear of the wagons charged forward in a gallop. We
soon reached. the brink of a chasm or ravine in the clay similar to those before described, except
that there was a small shallow stream of water at the bottom. The cry of ““Water!”” arose from
those who first reached it, and it was repeated with loud shouts of joy from one end of the train
to the other.

The stream was very shallow and the current sluggish, flowing over a bed of clay alone,
Which was so soft thatit was hardly possible to cross it. In some places there was a border of

green canes, tule, and coarse grass, which afforded a little refreshment to the animals. This

water was strongly impregnated with common salt and sulphate of magnesia, and it deposited
athick saline incrustation on the borders of the shallows along its course. It was not very dis-
agreeable to the taste, but coffee made with it was exceedingly nauseating. Its temperature at
sunrise on the 20th of November was 48°; the air 40°, and at 12 m. 90°. Shells of all the
species before observed were found here in aburidance, and, in addition, several small and thick
bivalves, (Gnathodon Lecontei. With the exception of the Gnathodon, these were abundant on
the surface, but were not found in the clay of the banks.

eg
4
=

104 | GEOLOGY.

November 20.—Salt Creek.— W e encamped on the border of this creek, and remained all day to
rest the mules. 'Two men were sent forward to look for the wagon road, and returned in the
evening with the report that it was about 20 miles distant. The rays of the sun were very hot,
and the thermometer stood at 90? during the middle of the day. Some small specimens of
silicified wood were found on the surface, and a perforated marine shell—a Pecten—which had
probably been dropped there by an Indian. A small but regular rhombohedron of caleite was
also found. This was perfectly clear, like Iceland spar, and was a perfect crystal, not being
obtained by cleavage from a larger mass. The barometer at this camp stood at 30.4 inches for
most of the time, thus indicating a depression below the sea-level—if 30 inches be regarded as
the height of the mercurial column at that level. The ground towards the north and northwest
was much lower, and there seemed t5 be little doubt that we were lower than the tide-waters ot
the gulf. ۱

November 21.—Salt Creek to the Emigrant Road, Carrizo Creek.—At daylight on the morning of
the 21st we again set out for the emigrant road leading from the mouth of the Gila, and for
Carrizo creek—the first water in the mountains after crossing the Desert. The surface over
which we passed, from our camp, was principally the hard, blue clay ; but near the mountains it
was covered up to different depths by the detritus of gravel and sand which had been brought
down and spread out by floods, forming slopes of gentle inclination.

Even the most level portions of the Desert in this vicinity have been much modified by the
action of water. Itappears to have re-assorted and distributed the argillaceous and sandy mate-
rials of the surface, alternately cutting away and filling up, as was shown by the exposed roots
of mezquite and other shrubs peculiar to that region. In some places these stood out two or
three feet above the surface; and at others they were buried to the same depth. If it were not
for these bushes, the modification of the surface would not be perceptible, as it is singularly flat
and level. Where the clay predominates, it is so smooth and hard that it does not afford a
secure resting place for grains of dry sand ; they are kept in constant motion by the wind, and
have formed into long, parallel ridges or drifts, which appear to be progressing towards the
southeast. These dunes or drifts were not deep ; the highest parts not being over ten feet above
the underlying clay. They gave a gently undulating, wave-like outline to the surface.

۱ DESERT TO WARNER’S.

As we approached the trail leading to Carrizo,creek the surface became more uneven, and we
passed over gravelly slopes, alternating with low and gently rising hills, covered with black,
shining pebbles and rounded masses of volcanie rocks. The rocks and pebbles were spread over
large areas, and appeared to be remnants of a drift deposit, older than the alluvial wash from
the mountains. We also passed an isolated outcrop of granite, forming a slight knob ın the
plain, and trending north and south. | ۱

The emigrant road was at length reached, and we turned a sharp angle towards the moun-
tains, proceeding in a northwesterly direction, and ascending the slope of the desert. Many
low hills, covered with black and shining pebbles and cobble-stones, were passed along the
road, and soon, outcrops of thickly-bedded argillaceous sandstone were seen. The dip appeared
to be towards the west. The road, on gaining the upper edge of the slope, made à sudden
descent into the valley of Carrizo creek, which gras then entirely dry. The sides of the valley
are formed of horizontal, or nearly horizontal, strata of clay and sandstone, and the hill which
we descended was bordered on each side by bluffs of red strata, containing gypsum 10 su

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CARRIZO CREEK—SANDSTONE STRATA. 105

plates, much of it being detached and lying upon the surface. It being nearly dark, few
observations could be made on these strata; they extended along the road for several miles,
and formed bluffs from twenty to sixty or eighty feet in elevation. Before descending the hill,
a specimen of Gnathodon was obtained. Water was at length found in the bed of the creek, and
we eneamped a short distance above, among some mezquit trees. A great quantity of bones of
cattle and sheep showed the fatality which has attended the passage of the desert.

November 22.—Camp on Carrizo Creek to Vallecito.—The temperature of the stream early in
the morning was 50°, and the air 44°. Nearly opposite the camp, the sandstone strata were
similar to those seen in the Cajon Pass, and are formed of rudely commingled gravel and sand,
and have a light, pinkish color. They are in thick beds, and not firmly consolidated. They
were observed to have a westerly dip. Not far beyond, a dip of 17° was seen. Beyond the
camp, and further up the creek, higher bluffs of nearly horizontal strata rose on either side.
They were argillaceous, and contained seams of gypsum and concretions, some of the latter
being like those seen on the desert. Passed a grove of palm trees, growing at a short distance
on the right, the valley being one or two miles wide. The agave or mescal plant and many
species of the cactacesw grow abundantly along the road. The air was loaded with the eflluvia
rising from numerous carcases of cattle and sheep in an advanced state of decomposition.
Reached Vallecito in the evening. This is a narrow valley, between high ridges of granite or
gueiss and mica slate. The water was somewhat charged with sulphuretted hydrogen, and
boils up from a grassy bank on the side of a low hill, upon which a rude adobe house, with one
room, is built, There are no trees at this place, but the springs were surrounded with willows;
there were many mezquit bushes, and the Strombocarpa pubescens, bearing the tournil or “ screw
bean." The temperature of the principal spring was found to be 78°, the air being 40°. The
water in the shallow open pools was about 46°. It is probable that these are thermal springs.

November 23.—Vallecito to San Félipe.—We travelled up the narrow valley between the
gneissoidal ridges on either side, and soon crossed the out-cropping edges of the rocks to another
and more elevated valley. The mountains are rugged, and almost without soil; the rocks are
blackened, or very brown, so that their true character or composition cannot be recognized at a
distance. At San Félipe there are several Indian rancherias and small fields along the borders
of the creek. The squaws were gathering mezquit beans, and some were seen carrying jars of
water on their heads in true oriental style. At the sources of the small creek, a little higher
up the valley and beyond the Indians, there is an abundance of grass and several springs of
excellent water. The valley was much wider than that at Vallecito, and extended off among
the mountains towards the south. Cotton-wood trees were visible in that direction, and other
timber was seen on the elevated parts of some of the ridges. Encamped at the springs.

November 24 to 28.—W pitched tents, and prepared to remain for several days, or until the
party arrived from the Mojave. On the 26th it began to rain, and continued most of the day,
flooding the camp. On the 27th the tops of the ridges were covered by fog, and the sky con-
tinued cloudy. A man arrived from the west, over the pass—Warner’s Pass—informing us
that the remainder of the party had returned, and were encamped at Warner’s.

November 28.—San Felipe to Warner's.—Left camp and travelled up the valley, finding
granite and gneiss along the road to the summit of the pass, where a compact gray granite
makes its appearance. The whole aspect of the country was changed, oak trees and shrubbery
were abundant, and grass grew along the side of the road. A short descent from the summit-
level (about 3,500 feet above the sea) brought us to a broad valley, | known as Warner's. Its

14 F

Er YO EN Ses =
Da qn oS RR RN N =

106 GEOLOGY.

surface was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and the mountains around were covered
with vegetation. We passed the ruins of Warner's adobe house, which it is said was burned
by the Indians, and soon reached the camp of the main party, situated on a grassy plain, near
the shore of a small pond or ** lagoon.””

The valley is well situated for raising stock, and it is large enough to afford pasturage for
immense herds. It is used for that purpose, and is a comfortable resting place for the droves
of cattle and sheep that are brought in over the desert from New Mexico and Sonora.

Warm Springs.—The thermal springs, generally known as ** Agua Caliente,”” are situated on
the slope of one of the ridges at the northeastern part of the valley. They have long been
resorted to by Indians for bathing, and the cure of various diseases. The water boils up out of
a granite ledge through a number of openings or cleavage fissures, and in one place it appears
to have enlarged the opening, so that it has become nearly cylindrical. The water flows
copiously from the different apertures, and the united streams give a volume of water about
equal to what would be delivered from a two-inch pipe under a pressure of one or two feet.
These openings are in a slight ravine, which appears to have been the bed of a brook that is
now deflected from its course by a dam, built for the purpose by the Indians. In descending
towards the spring, the edor of sulphuretted hydrogen is at once perceptible; and a slight
cloud of steam rises from the water. The temperature of the water at the different openings
was taken, and the following are the results: Time, 9 a. m., November 30.

lst or principal spring...... temperature, F . 142°
2d spring, t 141°
3d spring, “ 140°
4th spring, T 140°
5th spring, 10 feet distant, “ 1360
Stream below the springs, i 130°
Stream above the springs, " 589
Temperature of the air, e 740

Bubbles of sulphuretted hydrogen were constantly escaping, and the water was highly char ged
with it, and had an acid taste that was quite agreeable. There was only a slight incrustation
or deposit on some of the rocks. On those near the spring I found a slight yellow film, thickest
at the edge of the water in the quiet pools; this was afterwards found to consist almost wholly
of sulphur. A small jet of steam or air was constantly issuing from a crevice near the main
spring, producing a slight hissing sound like steam from a leak in a boiler.

The granite at this locality is compact and hard ; it has a coarse grain and texture, and à
light-grey color. The proportion of mica and hornblende is small, but they are uniformly
distributed in fine grains.

The mass is traversed by cleavage planes or fissures in two or more directions, but this regu-
larity or parallelism was not sufficiently distinct to enable me to determine the direction or angles
of intersection. Some of the principal ones trend north 9° east to north 12° east, (magnetic)

Higher up in the bed of this brook, on the side of the mountain, the granite appeared nearly
the same as that just described. I observed, in addition, that it contained lenticular, hor
blendic, and micaceous masses, similar to those seen in the granite of the Sierra Nevada, at the
Tejon Pass. The color and texture of this granite is similar to that at the divide, and it has 2
trend north 5° west.

All these granite ridges are well wooded with several varieties of oak, and in some places q
thick growth of shrub oaks. The soil of the valley is formed of the materials of the granite;
and the luxuriance of the grass and vegetation testifies to its good quality.

CHAPTER IX.

WARNER'S TO THE COLORADO DESERT—COLORADO DESERT TO THE
MOUTH OF THE GILA—CAMP YUMA AND THE VICINITY.

WARNER'S TO SAN FELIPE.—GRANITIC VEINS.— GRANITE AND GNEISS.— VALLEY OF CARRIZO CREEK.—DRIFT.—FossiLs. —VIEW OF
THE DESERT.—SIGNAL MOUNTAIN.—MIRAGE. — DISTORTED IMAGES OF MOUNTAINS. — SLOPE OF THE DESERT. — FOSSIL SHELLS.—
POLISHED PEBBLES.— SILICIFIED WooD.—BtG LAGOON.— LITTLE LAGOON.— WATER COURSES.—NEW RIVER.—ALAMO MOCHO.—
WELL.—SKELETONS OF CATTLE.— MEZQUIT.—LARREA MEXICANA.—SAND.-—MOUNTAINS.— PILOT KNOB.—-MxzQUIT WELLS.—Cook’s
WELL.—CONTINUOUS BANK OR TERRACE.—CONGLOMERATE.—SAND-DRIFTS, DUNES.— WILLOWS AND COTTON-WOODS.—INDIAN VIL-
LAGE.— FERTILITY OF THE SOIL.— COLORADO RIVER.—RED MUD OR SILT.—PILOT KNOB.— BLACKNESS AND POLISH OF THE ROCKS.—
GRANITE.— VOLOANIO OR ERUPTED ROCKS.—TRAVERTIN.—AGATES.— PEBBLES FILLED WITH FOSSILS.— CONGLOMERATE.— PLAIN
OF THE DESERT.-—Dust.—FoRT YUMA.—PORPHYRITIO GRANITE.—CHIMNEY PEAK.—SECTION OF THE BUTTE AT FORT YUMA.—
SECTION ALONG THE RIVER.—INCLINED STRATA.— PROBABLE ORIGIN OF THE FISSURE IN THE BUTTE.—EARTHQUAKES.—MUD VOL-
CANO.— MOUNTAINS NEAREST THE FORT.— PLAIN COVERED WITH POLISHED PEBBLES.—GLITTERING SURFACE.—AGATES AND POR-
PHYRIES.—SILICIFIED WOOD.—GNEISS.— VIEW OF THE DESERT AND SAND-HILLS

December 1.— Warner's Valley to San Felipe, 16 miles.—We left the camp at Warner's and
commenced the journey to Fort Yuma, at the mouth of the Gila, thus retracing our steps over
the mountains to San Felipe and Carrizo Creek. Arrived at San Felipe at 4 p. m. The
temperature of one of the springs at camp was found to be 68 degrees.

December 2.—San Felipe to Vallecito.—Large veins of granite, or feldspar and quartz in coarse
grains, are very numerous in the granitic or gneissose rocks along the route. In some places
they cut the gneiss nearly at right angles to its dip, and at others are parallel to the layers.
At San Felipe the veins are of great size, and immense, imperfect crystals of tourmaline were
observed. On approaching Vallecito, I turned to the left of the road, just before crossing a
spur of the mountain, and followed the course of a small brook, then nearly dry. This led me
through a narrow gorge which was invisible from the road, but which opened out into the next
valley. The ascent of the spur was thus avoided, but the trail was impassable for wagons.
Great blocks of granite and gneiss were abundant in this gorge, the mountains on each side
being composed of these rocks. Reached Vallecito in the afternoon, and encamped near the
springs and adobe house.

December 3.— Vallecito to Carrizo Creek.— After obtaining a supply of barley, which was stored
in the adobe house, we travelled towards the desert, following the same road previously traversed
by me when with Lieutenant Parke. The general dips of the sandstone strata along the creek
appeared to be southeast and southwest, but as the inclination of the strata is slight, and they are
cut in many different directions, as many different degrees of inclination and direction of dip
were apparent. We passed the usual camping ground on the creek, where the bones and skulls
of animals paved the ground, and following the water down to the point where it sank away in
the sand, we tied our mules to the limbs of the mezquit bushes and spread our blankets on the
clean, d sand. A party of Sonorians, with several ladies, arrived shortly afterwards from the
desert, and encamped just below us.

December 4.— Carrizo Creek to the Big Lagoon, 25 miles.—The dry bed of Carrizo Creek is ex-
tremely sandy, rendering it difficult for the animals to draw the wagon. Sandstone hills were

E. Tone CH DEI IPIE LES

Bene ey oM E EON on ol

sure

108 GEOLOGY.

found on each side for several miles from the camp, as before observed. It is through these
that the creek has cut its channel, and, where the stratification remains horizontal, the tops of
the hills are flat and covered with water-worn boulders and thick layers of pebbles, which are,
apparently, the continuation or source of the accumulations of drift already noticed as covering
the slope of the desert near the mountains. One of the isolated hills a short distance north of
the trail was found to be capped by a thick layer of fossils, closely impacted together. Several
specimens were detached very quickly, and further observations were deferred until our return,
as I was already far behind the party. These fossils were chiefly oysters and pectens. Just
before reaching the hill which leads up to the long slope of the desert, we cached a sack of
barley, to be fed to the mules on our return. The fossils I had procured were also hid, and the
whole was covered with sand.

The ascent of the hill leading up from the valley of the creek brought us to a full view of the
broad expanse of the Great Desert. It lay stretched out before us, a vast plain reaching to the
horizon, the only mountains visible being those on the northeast side, rising dim and faint in the
distance, and a single isolated ridge, much nearer and almost south of us. This was Signal
mountain, a solitary peak, serving as a guide to the traveller when on the desert. The road
could be traced down the slope extending off to the southeast, this being the direction of the
mouth of the Gila in the Colorado, about 90 miles distant. The phenomena of mirage added
greatly to the grandeur of the scene, supplying the forms of mountains or buildings upon the
distant edge of the desert; tall blue columns loomed up on the horizon, and castles, towers,
and the spires of cathedrals, seemed to stand beyond the limits of the great plain. Their out-
lines were distinctly projected against the morning sky, but they were undergoing constant
change, becoming lower or higher, and occasionally spreading out like a cross, or merging to-
gether into one grand pile.

Some of the outlines were sketched and are represented in the figures; but they convey no
idea of the beauty of the scene. See, also, View XII.

X tono Eon AE SER

| مس‎ e a
OUTLINES OF THE MIRAGE, O DESERT i
The slope of the desert from the hill on which we stood was very gradual, and the soil firm,

but gravelly and barren. After traversing it a short distance, we passed the trail made by the
wagons a few days previously ; then, reaching the foot of the slope, found a hard, smooth surface
of bluish clay, containing shells, the same species as before observed on the portions of the
desert further north. Before we passed upon the clay, however, several accumulations -
drift-pebbles and rocks, from three to eight inches in diameter, were found along the trail.
The surfaces of nearly all of these were smooth and polished. This is due to the continued
action of the blown sand and dust in its passage over them. The greater part of these
masses are of volcanic origin, and many specimens of scoriaceous and vesicular lava were found.
Fine specimens of silicified wood were also found to be abundant and of various sizes, from one
or two inches in length to as many feet. They are generally of a brown color, and retain all
the appearance of wood ; the grain and knots show distinctly, and resemble the wood of the
mezquit. The surfaces of these specimens were also curiously polished, and some of them ap
pear to have been deeply cut and grooved by the moving sand.

NEW RIVER—WELLS IN THE DESERT. 109

Three or four miles beyond the foot of the slope we reached the margin of a small pond of
muddy or slimy water, called the Big Lagoon, and encamped. This lagoon was very shallow,
aud the shores shelving and miry, so much so, that it was difficult to obtain any of the water.
The water was slightly brackish and bitter, had an unpleasant odor, and was very warm.
Chenopodiaceous plants were abundant.

December 5.—Big Lagoon to Alamo Mocho—twenty-six miles.—The surface of the desert con-
tinued the same—a level and hard clay A mile or two beyond the Big Lagoon we came to the
edge of another and smaller one, called the Little Lagoon. It is much like the first, except that
it is bordered by mezquit trees, which, in some places, grow very thickly together. The shores
are muddy and shelving. We passed two canal-like channels, or wide gullies, in the surface,
with mezquit trees growing in the bottom, and evidences of the presence of water at a former
period. Shells of Anodonta, and small spiral shells, were abundant. These channels probably
communicate with the two lagoons, and may be the bed of the stream called New River; so
called from the fact of its sudden appearance in 1849. At that time the Colorado River was
very high, and broke over a part of its banks between the mouth of the Gila and the head of
the Gulf. The water flowed inland, running backward through the desert towards the centre
of the valley once occupied by the ancient lake; thus proving the valley to be lower than the
banks of the river at the place of overflow. Major Emory and party, who crossed the desert
from the Colorado to Carrizo Creek in the year 1846, does not mention this stream, or any indi-
cation of its pre-existence. He mentions, however, that he was informed by a Mexican that a
running stream would be found a league west of the Alamo. Parties were sent out to search
for the water, but no stream could be found.! The appearance of the stream in 1849 was &
subject of general surprise and wonder; and was an unexpected relief to the many emigrant
parties who crossed the Desert that year. It is the general belief that this overflow was the first
instance of the kind, but it has evidently often taken place before, and there are many reasons
for believing that it once flowed in a larger and stronger stream than it has since its existence
became known. The lakes are connected with New River, and are filled by it when the Colorado
is high. Since the appearance of the stream, a part of the travel across the desert has been
diverted from the usual course, in order to have the advantage of its waters and the margin of
grass and tule along its banks. When, however, the channel is not filled with water, the old
, Toute is preferred. We did not follow the river, but kept the road towards the well and camping
place known as Alamo Mocho.

The surface of the desert, between the lakes and Alamo Mocho, is slightly undulating; but,
to the traveller, it appears to be level.

After passing the lagoons, there is but little vegetation ; and about half-way (133 miles) from Big
Lagoon to the well we passed a thin layer of drifted sand, and the surface became more gravelly.

Alamo Mocho.—The name of this place appears to have been suggested by the abundance ot
cotton-wood trees that grew there several years ago, and that have been cut down. One or two
decaying trunks were all that remained. Our camp was on the margin of a steep bank of clay,
about thirty feet high. The well is dug at the fo.t of this bank, in one of the lowest places,
and appears to be in the dry bed of a water-course, or canal, similar to that seen near the
lagoons. The desert beyond the well, south and southwest of the camp, appeared lower than
the plain on which we were, and was sparsely wooded with low, and partly dead, mezquit bushes.
The well was about eighteen feet deep, and lined with boards, and protected by a low curb; but

¡Report of Major W. H. Emory, p. 100.

MeL EU i u v a و‎

110 GEOLOGY.

there were no buckets or conveniences for drawing the water. This water was found to be turbid,
and slightly brackish. The country around the camp was peculiarly dreary and desert-like,
Quantities of skeletons of cattle and mules, with loose bones and skulls, were lying about in
confusion. Near the well were several carcases but partly decomposed, and others completely
dried up, so that the skeleton was held firmly together by the hard and tightly-stretched hide,
The clay surface upon which these remains were distributed was perfectly barren and overlaid
by a thin coat of dry sand, which the wind drifted into little mounds, and moved about with a
low, rustling, and mournful sound,

WELL IN THE DESERT—ALAMO MOCHO.

The bank above the well, as represented in the engraving, appears like a wall of stone, but
it is nothing more than an indurated clay, of a reddish and gray color, very fine and regularly
stratified in horizontal layers. A specimen of the clay of a bluish-gray color was preserved,
(No. 162 of the catalogue.) No shells or fossils were observed.

December 6.—Alamo Mocho to Cook's Well, 22 miles.—The trail from the Alamo well winds
along on the top of the bank. The surface is slightly undulating, and is overspread with con-
siderable accumulations of gravel and pebbles. We passed many slight mounds, ten or fifteen
feet high, upon which large shrubs of Larrea Mexicana were firmly rooted, and had evidently
been growing in the same position for many years. Ata short distance, these mounds looked
like sand-hills ; and it is often the case that a thin layer of blown sand spreads over or around
them. They are also composed essentially of sand ; but the grains appear to be bound together
with fine clay or dust, so that they resist the winds and are not shifted about.

Eleven and a half miles beyond the Alamo well we crossed the point of a thin layer of
blown sand that had accumulated about the roots of the larrea, which grew abundantly in that
vicinity.

There was little to vary the monotony of the scene on this broad Desert, except the gradual
changes in the appearance of distant mountains as we neared or receded from them. Sign
mountain was now behind us, and gradually sunk below the plain; while on the left the moun-

tains loomed up one range after another in long blue lines. Another object made its appear”
ance in advance : the blue summit of a mountain rose just above the horizon, and became higher
and higher as we advanced. This was Pilot Knob, an isolated elevation on the banks of the
Colorado.

GROVES OF MEZQUITE—SAND-DRIFTS 111

About fifteen miles from the Alamo well the road descends from the bank or terrace to the
level of the low ground already described as seen from the camp at the well. Thick groves of
mezquite trees extended on all sides, and were sufficient indications to me that the ground was
well supplied with water, at a moderate depth.

Mezquite Wells. —These are dug on the low ground along the trail, and were mere holes
scooped out in the clay to a depth of six or eight feet. In one of them a keg, or barrel, had
been sunk, and was partly full of brackish, muddy water. The mesquites grow very thickly
about these wells, and attain a large size. We travelled for many miles among them, occa-
sionally passing across several acres where all the trees were dead, and gave the country the
appearance of a dried up swamp, or of a forest that had been killed by the influx of water.
These mezquite trees continue along the road to Cook’s Well. The trail winds along under and
near the bank or terrace, which rises on the left and presents an almost uniform bank, about thirty
feet high. The larrea grows in clumps on the top of the bank, and is often a nucleus for the
driving sand, which accumulates about the roots wherever the force of the wind is broken.

Cook's Well.—This was dug in the clay under a bank or terrace, about thirty feet high, simi-
lar to that at the Alamo and Mezquite well. It was also nothing more than a hole scooped out
in the clay, and the water was smallin quantity and slightly brackish. It could not be obtained
clear, as it was surrounded by fine clay, and held a large amount of it in suspension. A good
well, lined with plank, would remedy this difficulty and afford abundance of water.

December 7.—Cook’s Well to the Colorado River, 15 miles.—The trail beyond Cook's Well passes
over a level clay surface, and among groves of mezquite, similar to those already described. A
continuous bank or terrace extends on the north ofthe trail the whole distance. This bank was
about thirty feet high, and nearly perpendicular. Near the well it was formed of clay, with a
superficial coating of gravel and sand; but at the Indian village, (Algodones,) near to the
Colorado, there was a thick upper stratum of pebbles and rounded stones, about as large as hens'
eggs, held together by a cement, which appeared to be carbonate of lime.

. Sand-drifts —The greater part of the bank just described was hid from view by a thick
covering of blown sand, that had accumulated into drifts and hills on its top and near to its
edge. In some places these drifts had progressed so far as to fall over into the plain below,
filling up the angles formed by the steep bank, and presenting a gradual slope of sand. These
were the principal and most formidable sand-hills that we had yet met.

As we came within six or seven miles of the Colorado, the groves of mezquite were gradually
replaced by clumps of willows and tall cotton-wood trees, many of which were dead, and one or
two, near the high bank on the left, were partially buried in the blown sand that had fallen over
its edge. Two miles from the Colorado, we descended a bank ten or fifteen feet high, at the
Indian village, located at the base of the sand-hills. A spring at this place furnished the Indians
with water, and numerous shallow canals (acequias) showed that it was obtained in quantity
sufficient for purposes of irrigation.

These Indians cultivate the ground around their village and raise corn and melons. One of
the fields was covered with the dead stalks of maize; and an Indian boy brought me ears of
corn to exchange for tobacco. Immense quantities of sliced melons and yellow pumpkins were
suspended from poles to dry, and large piles of the seeds were spread out on platforms for the
same purpose. These form an important part of the food of the Indians. There can be no
question of the fertility of this region, and of the clay soil of the Desert, at any point where water
can be obtained in sufficient quantity for irrigation.

cR E i e ee
BESTER QE ED ET. MONS SR SUR: 2

cer ae ۳ N *
T9809. SONT Urn MUR D GN اس ی‎ E Cte AL VHC C V ONERE IER,

112 GEOLOGY.

‘Colorado River.—At the time of my visit the river was nearly at its lowest stage, and was
flowing rapidly, about twenty feet below the edge of the bank The water was highly charged
with fine, red mud, which gave it a decided red color and opacity. This red clay receives its
color from a large amount of peroxide of iron; considerable quantities of it were deposited in
all the shallows and quiet places along the banks.

The amount of silt thus annually transported to the Gult of California by this river must be
very large, and very considerable additions to and alterations of its delta must result.

From the Algodones, (or the Indian village near the Colorado,) the trail followed up the
right bank of the river, winding about in a thick growth of willows. The terrace and sand-
hills still bounded the view on the left, and were about half a mile distant from the stream.

We soon reached Pilot Knob, which had so long been visible at a distance, and, in fact, is a
well known landmark or guide to the traveller of the desert. It rises, solitarily, above the level
plain, about three miles distant from the point of the range that borders the desert on the north-
east. The whole surface of the rocks is of a jet black color, and they have a peculiar polished
exterior which glistens in the sun as if it had been varnished or highly polished. Linesof struc-
ture or lamination were, however, distinctly visible in the granite, and were much bent and
contorted. Their trend is about 5° W. of N. (magnetic.) The Knob also appears to be tra-
versed by dykes or ridges of a dark volcanic rock, which resembles basalt, or some dark
varieties of crystalline trap. I had not time to follow out and determine the line of junction
between the granite and this rock.

The granite was traversed by narrow seams and fissures, which were filled up by a cellular
and porous substance, apparently a calcareous sinter or travertin.

On the rocks of this Knob, about forty or fifty feet above the level of the river, I found
numerous rounded agates and carnelians, and a mass of rolled and water-worn flint, which
contained small fossil shells, apparently Carboniferous or Cretaceous. All these pebbles and
the loose fragments of the rock were highly polished, and presented a dark brown or black
color, glistening in the sun's rays like polished ebony or japanned ware.

The sand-hills terminate near the western side of Pilot Knob, but the bank or terrace upon
which they are formed appears to be continuous beyond the Knob to the vicinity of Camp Yuma.
Its upper stratum, at Pilot Knob, is a bed of conglomerate about five feet thick, similar to that
occurring back of the Indian village. "The pebbles are closely and firmly cemented together or
imbedded in a paste of carbonate of lime, and they are principally fragments of volcanic rocks of
various colors, some of them being dark red and green porphyries of great beauty. This con-
glomerate is underlaid by strata of sand, in an unconsolidated state, and they much resembled
post tertiary deposits.

The river makes a great bend near this ridge, and almost washes its base, leaving a space 8°
narrow between the rocks and the bank that the road leads over a low point of the Knob. A
fine view of the Colorado and the timber along its banks is presented from the elevation ; it 18
seen to curve around towards another but much smaller butte—the site of Fort Yuma—about
eight miles distant. The bank or terrace, which was found to border the trail after leaving
Cook’s Well, is seen to be the margin of an elevated and level plain extending between the
mountains, and perfectly devoid of trees or, vegetation ; while the lower ground or bottom-
land along the river is covered with groves of mezquite, willows and cotton-wood. The accom-
panying sketch was taken from the Knob, looking up the river, and a little north of east, and
shows the plain on the left, and the peculiarly sharp and pointed outlines of the distant moun-

mU cms me 7:7۲۲۲ TUCH TEE TE 7۳۳۲۲۳

VALLEY OF THE COLORADO—GILA RIVER. 113

tains. The road crosses the hill in the foreground, and follows the curvature of the river to

Camp Yuma.

VALLEY OF THE COLORADO, FROM PILOT KNOB.

We remained at the foot of Pilot Knob over night, intending to reach Fort Yuma early the
next morning. Our camp-ground was very dusty, the soil being light and dry, like ashes, and
a high breeze from the north kept the dust in constant motion, filling every open vessel, and
covering garments and blankets with a thick layer. The temperature of the air through the
night was very agreeable, being about 70°, and the water of the river in the afternoon was
found to be 58°,

We reached Fort Yuma early the next morning, (December 8,) and were most hospitably

received and entertained by the officers of the post.

JUNCTION OF THE GILA AND COLORADO RIVERS—FORT YUMA.

Fort, or Camp Yuma, is situated upon an isolated butte or knob of porphyritic granite, not
Over one hundred feet in height above the river, and of small extent. The waters of the Gila
river, coming from the east, flow into the Colorado just at the eastern base of the elevation. It
is the only eminence within a circuit of eight miles, and thus commands an extensive panoramic
view of the Desert and mountains by which it is surrounded on all sides. The Colorado may
be traced both north and south, bordered on each side by wide, desert plains. On the south,
towards the head of the Gulf, these extend as far as the eye can reach, unbroken by a single
mountain ridge. On the east, the narrow stream of the Gila winds down from the mountains,

15 F

en E a E Se AE AS SE > 5 T A e

114 ‘ GEOLOGY.

bounding the vision in that direction. Northward and eastward, the most striking feature of
the landscape is found in the extraordinary outline of the mountains. Gigantic columns and
domes of mountain size rise high into air, above the lower but still rough and angular outlines
of the ridges. An idea of their forms may be obtained from the little outline sketch, but no

conception of the desolate grandeur of the scene can be obtained without looking out upon it.
The highest of these peaks is called A-melle-e-quette, by the Yuma Indians, and Chimney Peak
by residents of the fort. The ** Dome Rock" has the Indian name of Ar-with-a-que, (pro-
nounced as written.) They are about twenty miles distant from the fort. These pinnacled
ranges are represented to be of granitic rocks by intelligent parties, who have visited portions of
them, from Camp Yuma. Chimney Peak is also reported to be formed of sandstone strata
standing on edge.

The principal and most distinct of the dome-like rocks is called ‘‘ Capitol Dome ;’’ it is not
included in the sketch, but one is seen of asimilar shape. The vertical, wall-like sides of these
rocks simulate the weathered remnants of horizontal fields of basalt, or the vertical bluffs of
trappean formations. These elevations were too far removed and inaccessible to be visited
during my visit at the fort. They are very singular, and are worthy of a special examination.

The granite of the knob contains large crystals of feldspar, and is thus a porphyry or por-
phyritic granite. It is probable, however, that the rock varies in different parts of the hill.
Several irregular veins of dark-colored hornblende and epidote were exposed in a natural section
along the river, and, from their ramified and peculiar character, I concluded that they were of
volcanic origin, and probably of comparatively recent intrusion.

It is a curious fact that the Colorado cuts directly through this elevation of granite, instead
of circling around it, where it could readily excavate a channel in the clay. Indeed, there is
an old, dry channel on the north of the butte, which becomes filled at the time of high water,
thus, for a time, making an island of the butte.

SECTION OF THE COLORADO RIVER AT FORT YUMA.

و۷
TA‏
NN‏

g g
a, Alluvium. g, رو‎ Porphyritic granite. r, Colorado river. t, Tertiary, or post tertiary sandstone.

The section from north to south, across the butte, will serve to show the relative positions of
the granite, the Tertiary, or Post Tertiary, and the alluvium of the river. The walls of granite
rise nearly vertical on both sides of the river, and being of the same height and outline,
indicate that the butte has been cleft asunder, or fissured by some great convulsion of nature.
Even the rock appears as if freshly broken, for it is not discolored and blackened by age 8$ the
outer-portions are. The fissure, if such it may be considered, affords a good opportunity for

FISSURE IN THE GRANITE—EARTHQUAKES—SALSES. 115

obtaining a section of the butte, and it exposes a series of inclined strata resting at an angle of
about thirty-five degrees against the granite. The following sketch represents the outline and
appearance of the south wall of the break through the butte:

SECTION ON THE BANK OF THE COLORADO.

g, Porphyritic granite. s, Inclined strata. a, Alluvium.

The inclined strata dip to the west, and are not found on the eastern, or “up stream,’’ side
of the granite ; but on the western or lower side they occur similarly on each bank of the river.
These strata are, apparently, composed of blocks and fragments of the same granite upon which
they lie, and seem to have been derived from its degradation. "They are not much water-worn,
and are rudely stratified, alternating with beds of light-colored clay and gravel formed of the
same rocks.

This singular formation probably does not extend beyond the butte, and the appearances indi-
cate that the materials were laid down in their present inclined position. If so, rapid currents
must have acted on this granite barrier when it was at a lower level than now. The position of
the debris involves the necessity of believing that the currents flowed from east to west, or in the
same direction as the river. It does not appear possible that the deep gap, with nearly vertical
walls, through which the river now flows, can be the result of degradation by the stream, even
if the gradual elevation of the rock be allowed. The butte being the only elevated ground
within a circuit of seven or eight miles, and being surrounded by loose, sedimentary formations,
we would naturally expect the river to form a channel around the barrier, instead of cutting
through it. I am therefore disposed to consider this caiion as a deep fissure, resulting from
volcanic disturbances.

Earthquakes.—Fort Yuma and its vicinity appears to have been particularly liable to volcanic
disturbances or earthquakes, for many have been experienced since the establishment of the
military post. On the 9th of November, 1852, the camp was violently shaken by an earth-
quake, and the shocks continued almost daily for several months after, and were so frequent
and expected as not to excite remark. At the time of our visit the shocks had not entirely
ceased, and I was informed that they had become “quite rare, none having been felt for fully
three weeks!" The first shock threw down a portion of Chimney Peak, and opened fissures and
cracks in the clay strata of the Desert bordering the Colorado. At the same time, Major Heint-
zleman, the commanding officer of the post, observed a column of steam rising from the Desert,
in a southwesterly direction, at the distance of about forty miles. Several weeks afterwards, he
visited and examined the locality, and found a small mud volcano, in an active state.! Puffs
and jets of steam, mingled with large masses of black mud, were being constantly ejected to
the height of thirty or forty feet. The orifice was in a shallow basin, partly filled with water,
Covering a surface of severalacres. "This was violently thrown outwards, in waves, at the time
of each explosion; its temperature was found by Major H. to be 108°. Numerous little cones
were puffing out steam, like the exhaust of a small high-pressure steam engine ; and in one of
these, where gas and steam were issuing, the thermometer indicated a temperature of 170? Fahr.

Another mud volcano was found about the same time, in the northwestern part of the Desert,

! See Map of the Desert for the position of this volcano.

116 GEOLOGY.

northeast from Salt creek, and probably near the lowest point of the bed of the ancient lake.
Clouds of dust were thrown up from various parts of the Desert at the time of the prineipal
shock, and the probability is, that there were many small openings and rents for subterranean
gasses, that have never been found, or that have since been entirely obliterated.

The position of these, the most important and active vents, and the fact that they were opened
in the lowest parts of the surface, and through the recent clay formations subject to overflow,
indicates a connexion of the phenomena of disturbance with the infiltration of water. No
overflow of the Colorado, however, was known to have taken place that season; but rain had
fallen in the months of July, August, and September, preceding the earthquake. 1

December 9— Fort Yuma to the mountains north of Pilot Knob.—In company with Lieutenant
Hendershot I made a trip to the mountains northwest of the fort, and nearly north of Pilot
Knob. "The mountains are near the end, or at that point form the end, of the apparently con-
tinuous range extending southeasterly from San Bernardino mountain, and bounding the
valley of the Desert on the north and east. We estimated the distance to the nearest point of
these rocks at thirteen miles; they, however, seemed to be much nearer, and to be separated
from us by only a narrow belt of river-bottom and of the plain beyond. To an observer from
the Atlantic States, whose eye had not become educated in estimating distances in that region
of lofty peaks and pure air, the distance would have appeared to be less than half its reality.

Our course, at first, lay over the bottom-lands of the Colorado, among cottonwoods, willows,
and clumps of mezquite trees. We soon passed from these to a wide area covered with gigantie
Chenopodiaceous weeds, through which it was not easy to force a passage with our mules. We
saw beyond us, the borders of the upper plain, marked by a horizontal line, apparently about
thirty or forty feet above the level of the bottom-land. This line was broken at short intervals
by gullies worn out from the top to the bottom of the bank by drainage water during the
showers, leaving in some places long projecting points of the plain between two gullies. These
little valleys, thus formed by erosion, were from twenty to sixty or one hundred feet in width,
and were bounded by steep banks of the horizontal strata on each side. In some places the
thick bed of conglomerate, which overlies the sand, was visible, and in others, it had been
gradually undermined and washed away until the height of the bank was much reduced. The
bottom or floor of these little valleys was sandy, and strewn in places with pebbles from the con-
glomerate. A large quantity of black sand was also found covering the surface of ripple-
marks, and in some places it was so abundant as to form black patches of several square feet
in area and from one quarter to half.an inch in depth. A sample of this was collected, and is
found to contain many small, but beautifully formed, garnets. In the solitude of these narrow
valleys, excavated below the level expanse of the desert plain above, I was agreeably surprised
to find several forms of vegetation of unique and peculiar appearance, many of them, doubtless,
yet undescribed. One of the most conspicuous was a large shrub, or tree, probably the green-
barked Acacia of Major Emory and others. It forms a low tree which spreads out over à large
surface, but at that locality did not rise higher than the level of the adjoining banks.

The foliage is light and airy, and not unlike that of the mezquite or screw-bean in its general
aspect, but is quite different in color, being a whitish or ashy-green. The limbs and trunks
are round and very smooth, and the bark is greenish-white. The plant is so peculiar Ji
striking in its appearance that it cannot fail to arrest the attention of the most casual observer.?

1 The author is indebted to Major Heintzelman, U. S. A., for these facts.

? Specimens of this plant and others, were Fer BR » Major G. H. Thomas, United States army, and are
described and figured by Dr. - Torrey in the Appe

PLAIN OF POLISHED PEBBLES—SILICIFIED WOOD. 117

On ascending from the shallow valley, along one of the side ravines, we found ourselves
standing on the broad, level expanse of the plain of the Desert. The mountains towards which
we were travelling rose up from this plain, but were apparently not much nearer to us than
when we started. The outlines of the nearest ridges were sharp and distinct, and their color was
a dark reddish-brown ; while the more distant points of the range were various shades of purple
and blue. From our feet to the base of the mountain the surface seemed unbroken, and almost
perfectly level; there was not a single swell of the ground, a tree, shrub, or boulder of rock,
to break the monotony of the level expanse. Pebbles of various colors, like those found at
Pilot Knob, lay in profusion on the surface. We had not proceeded far before we found that
the ground was literally paved with them, and that, in fact, but little earth or sand was to be
seen. "These pebbles were not loose, as upon an ordinary gravel-walk, but seemed laid down
compactly, as if by art, and all at the same height, as if they had been pressed down by a roller,
or otherwise. We were, in fact, upon the surface of the layer of conglomerate which caps the
horizontal strata below, and which was seen in section at the Indian village and beyond Pilot
Knob. "The size of the pebbles varies from that of a hickory nut to a hen's egg, and larger ; but
the greater part are not larger than an egg. They consist, as before observed, of various
colored porphyries, and of basalt and greenstone, mingled with quartz, agates, and jaspers.
The whole surface of the plain was swept clean by the winds, and the upper layer of pebbles was
perfectly clean and free from soil, sand, or dust. All the cementing material seemed removed,
and they were retained to the surface by a narrow but firm bedding on the under side. Every
pebble had the beautifully polished and glistening exterior, and the diversity of colors was
increased, and their brilliance heightened, by this singular polish. The glitter of the sun's
rays on this plain was like that on the water of a lake in a summer's day, when the surface is
thrown into ripples by a passing breeze. Each pebble seemed firmly placed, and yet could be
readily detached. The galloping of our mules made a strange clinking or rattling sound, but
scarcely left a trace of our passage behind us. We, however, crossed several long, path-like

discolorations of the surtace, extending for miles in nearly straight lines, which were Indian

trails. The only change which was produced appeared to be the removal or dimming of the
polish on the pebbles. There was no break in the hard surface, and no dust. That the
distinctness of the trail was made by removing the polish only, became evident from the fact
that figures and Indian hieroglyphics were traced, or imprinted, on the surface adjoining the
path, apparently by pounding or bruising the surface layer of the pebbles. These trails seemed
very old, and may have endured for many generations.

While travelling over this brilliantly-paved plain, its surface shining with myriads of pol-
ished pebbles of agate, jasper, and carnelian, the attention was constantly attracted, at short
intervals, by some stone of pecular form or unusual color, and it was difficult to resist the temp-
tation to dismount and examine them. Several masses of a brownish hue, and not rounded

like the pebbles, but elongated and irregular, were seen. A stroke of my hammer on the end

of one of these broke it across, and revealed the most exquisite and beautifully preserved organ-
ization of wood. Each cell and pore could be distinctly traced, ranged within concentric circles,
Which were the lines of annual growth, and showed that the plant was exogenous. Although
the exterior was dark-brown, the interior, as exposed by the fracture, was of a light buff color,
veined with red and brown in varied tints due to the coloration of the silica, which had per-
meated the pores of the wood by iron or other impurities. The portion contiguous to the
external surface, for the depth of about one-eighth of an inch, was nearly white and opaque,

v 3 Br و‎ DINE EXPE. i
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piov M I C CERE QNI LT os EC S EU

3

118 GEOLOGY.

like chalk, and appeared to have been produced by the long exposure of the specimen to the
weather. This difference between the color of the interior and the surface showed, in a manner
very striking, the peculiar surface discoloration which is found on all the rocks of that region,
and which it is yet impossible to explain.!

Having at length arrived at the base of the range, it was found to be composed of naked
rocks, there being no soil or vegetation. The whole surface had that peculiar blackened and
glistening appearance observed at Pilot Knob. The outlines of the range. were very rugged
and sharp, and long re-entering valleys or angles were numerous. We climbed to an elevation
of about two hundred and fifty feet on the extreme point, and thus gained a full view of the
Desert towards the north, west, and south. The ridge upon which we stood appeared to be one
of many others extending similarly out into the Desert, and overlapping, thus bounding long,
narrow valleys. It was, however, evident that it extended further south than the others, and
Pilot Knob was in its line of prolongation, and apparently three or four miles distant. The
butte upon whieh Camp Yuma was located was in full view, and the windings of the Colorado,
with its green border of timber, could be traced in the plain far to the south. The space
between the mountain and Pilot Knob was nearly level, and paved for the whole distance with
the brilliant pebbles. There were, however, slight channels, or depressions of the surface,
which indicated that the direction of the drainage was southwest.

The rocks were found to be compact gneiss, or gneissose granite, the layers being nearly ver-
tical. Several white quartz veins, from three inches to a foot or two in thickness, -were seen ;
one could be traced by the eye for a long distance on the side of the ridge. The sand-hills were
in full view for their entire extent, and were seen to form a narrow belt only, and did not
appear to extend far back from the bank or terrace commencing at Pilot Knob. The surface
intervening between the hills and the ridge appeared to be hard and gravelly, and was free
from sand. After taking many bearings to distant mountains, we returned to Camp Yuma.

1 For a description of the structure of specimens of the fossil wood of the Desert, see Appendix, Article VI.

CHAPTER X.
FORT YUMA TO CARRIZO CREEK.—CARRIZO CREEK TO SAN DIEGO.

REMARKABLE CLEFT IN THE ROCKS OF PILOT KNOB.— TERRACE.— SAND HILLS.—EXTENT AND HEIGHT OF THE HILLS-— HR AIN.—ROUNDED
FORM OF THE GRAINS OF SAND.— ÀGATE AND QUARTZ.—SAND-STORM.—SILICIFIED WOOD.—ARGILLACEOUS STRATA.—APPROACH TO
CARRIZO CREEK.— DARREN MOUNTAINS WEST OF THE DESERT.— EROSION OF CARRIZO CREEK.— DANKS OF HORIZONTAL STRATA.—
FRACTURES OF THE STRATA DUE TO EARTHQUAKES.— GYPSUM.— STRATUM OF MARINE SHELLS. — SILICIFIED WOOD POLISHED BY SAND.—
PALM SPRINGS. —VEGETATION OF THE VALLEY OF THE CREEK.— GRANITE AND GNEISS.—— V ALLECITO. — DASIN-SHAPED VALLEYS AT
DIFFERENT ELEVATIONS —-GNEISS AND MICA-SLATE — VEINS OF FELDSPAR TRAVERSING THE ROCKS.—LARGE CRYSTALS OF TOUR-
MALINE.— SAN FELIPE.— RAVINE NEAR THE INDIAN VILLAGE.—TRAVERTIN OF THE CREEK.—SANTA ISABEL.— GRANITE. —SYE-
NITE.-. QUARTZ VEINS AND INDICATIONS OF GOLD.— SAN PASQUAL.—ROUNDED HILLS OF SPRATIFIED FORMATIONS.— TRAP DYKE.—
CONGLOMERATE 一 SLOPE FROM THE MOUNTAINS. —VALLEYS OF EROSION.— BEACH SHINGLE.— FOSSIL SHELLS.—PUNTA LOMA.—RAN
PEDF.0. — BLUFF OF ARGILLACEOUS STRATA.— BITUMINOUS SHALES.— HARD SANDSTONE.- -SUN CRACKS.— MODERN DEPOSITS CONTAIN-
ING SHELLS — BrTUMEN.— SANTA BARBARA.— FOSSILS.

FORT YUMA TO CARRIZO CREEK.

December 11.— Fort Yuma to Cook's Well.—We left Fort Yuma at noon for Cook's Well, on our
return across the desert, following, for the greater part of the way, the same trail over which
we had passed in proceeding to the fort.

At Pilot Knob, further observations were made upon the rocks and the adjoining bank of con-
glomerate, and specimens collected. A great cleft, or fissure, about twenty feet wide, was

observed in the mountain a few hundred yards back from the road. It seemed to have been. the.

result of volcanic disturbances, but was not followed or examined. We left the trail by which
we came, which follows down the bank of the river, and turned into a trail on the right, leading
among willow bushes and trees almost directly at the foot of the bluff or terrace of sand and
conglomerate. The sand-hills commence near the knob, and extend all the way to the Indian
village, and beyond it. On arriving at the village, it was found that the top of the bank was
still formed of a conglomerate, and the loose dry sand of the Desert was pouring over it, reaching
the cultivable land below. These sand hills were continually in view on the right hand, the
trail in some places being at their base. On ascending them from the trail, and travelling
among them, every other object was lost sight of, and nothing but the wave-like outlines of the
drifts could be seen. The steepest slope of all the hills was towards the south, and the northern
slopes were found to be gradual—the sand gradually thinning down to the level of the plain.

The highest hills, also, were on thesouth ; towards the north side of the belt the altitude of the

hills decreased. The highest hills were probably about sixty feet, but some were seen in the
distance which may have been higher. "The northern limit of the hills was seen, and the belt
was probably less than half a mile in width. The progress of this sand towards the south
appears to have been arrested by the steep bank and the mezquite trees.

Before reaching Cook's Well the sky became overcast with clouds, and rain began to fall.
This is an uncommon occurence in that region and worthy of note.

December 19.— Cook's Well to Alamo Mocho.—It continued to rain through the night and during
the morning, but the fall was not great. We reached the Alamo about sundown. I carefully

120 GEOLOGY.

examined the sandy and gravelly surface near this camp, and found that nearly all the grains
of sand were much rounded. Lying down close to the surface, I was able to pick up a great
number of the grains of different colors, and found them to be rounded fragments of quartz
crystals, chalcedony, carnelian, agate, rose-quartz, and a green mineral, probably chrysolite.
The spherical form is undoubtedly produced by the constant attrition of the grains as they are
driven before the wind.

December 13.—Alama Mocho to the Big REE after leaving the Alamo Well we
descended to the level of the hard clay, which forms a perfect plain without vegetation. The
small shells, already noted, were very abundant. One or two small sand-hills—the accumula-
tions about an old mezquite bush—were seen. We arrived at the margin of the Big Lagoon in
the evening, and experienced a very high wind, which drove the sand and dust before it in
clouds, and partly filled the tracks made by the wagon wheels. The sand moved along near
the ground with a rustling sound, but the finer particles of grit were elevated into the air and
driven with blinding force.

December 14.—Big Lagoon to Carrizo Creek.—The wind blew violently during the night, and
we found, after starting, that it had blown the sand into thin drifts across the trail, filling up the
ruts and tracks. These little drifts were only two or three feet wide and from one to six or
eight inches deep. On reaching the slope leading up to the mountains, I secured many fine

BARREN MOUNTAINS WEST OF THE DESERT.

specimens of silicified wood. It occurs in great abundance, lying loose on the surface, and in
places, tons of it could be collected from an area of one or two acres.!
In one of the slight gullies, or depressions in the surface of the plain, about half way between

1 For a description of a shecimen of the wood, see Appendix.

RENTNER

TERTIARY STRATA OF CARRIZO CREEK. 121

the lagoon and the mountains, I observed the edges of argillaceous strata in thin, slaty beds.
These were soft, and not unlike those seen north of Salt creek in November. Still higher up the
slope, and before the hill at the valley of the creek was reached, another outcrop was found. This
was, however, composed of sandstone ; the strata dipping westwardly, and showing thick beds.
They did not stand out much above the surface, and were much obscured by a wash of gravel
and sand. They were light-colored and probably Tertiary.

The approach to Carrizo creek over the long and gradual slope affords a good view of
the mountains which bound the Desert on the west, and separate it from the coast slopes near
San Diego. "These mountains are the continuation of the same ranges which were constantly
seen on the right hand during the passage of the Desert southwards from the San Bernardino
Pass, and are portions of the great chain extending throughout the peninsula of California.
The ridges at Carrizo creek are peculiarly barren and forbidding in their appearance, and,
being without soil, are exceedingly rough and rugged.

Mountains of this character border both sides of the valley of Carrizo creek, but do not reach
the vicinity of the road, so that they could not be readily examined. They, however, appeared
to be composed of granitic and gneissose rocks, similar to those found in the ridges further
north. Some of the ridges were very dark-colored, or nearly black, and may be erupted rocks,
more recent than the gneiss. ۱

The hill, at the upper edge of the slope by which the valley of the creek is reached, has
already been noticed. When standing on this hill, and looking westward between the ranges
of mountains, it becomes evident that the wide valley is occupied by nearly horizontal sedimen-
tary strata, through which the creek has cut its way. It has excavated a wide and deep chan-
nel, cutting away and carrying out upon the margin of the Desert a large portion of the mate-
rials that once filled the valley to a much higher level than the present bed of the creek. This
denuding action has left vertical walls at various places on each side of the stream, in which the
horizontal layers of the sediments are exposed ; and wherever side streams have entered the

E. valley, other channels are formed, and isolated hills, with flat tops, are left standing, as if to
| indicate the former level of the surface. The exposed edges of the strata, so well seen in the
natural sections, were not all horizontal, but presented various degrees of inclination and direc-
tion of dip. This, of course, would result where slightly inclined strata are cut in different
directions by the tortuous course of a stream. From the repeated observations of the dip, and
their relation to the configuration of the valley, I was led to conclude that their general or pre-
vailing direction was from the granite ranges on each side towards the centre of the valley. No
inclination greater than 20° was observed. There were, however, indications of comparatively
local disturbances in the lower part of the valley, near to the slope of the Desert, in which the

FAULTS IN SANDSTONE STRATA, CARRIZO CREEK.

۳ 3 :

: / o

inclinations were much greater. "These were seen from a distance, on the south of the trail, and

were not far from a ridge of dark-colored rocks, which, from its appearance, I suspected might
16F

122 GEOLOGY.

be intrusive, and probably the cause of the disturbance of the beds. Additional evidence of
violent disturbances of the strata was found in the presence of many faults or fractures of the
beds. The preceding figure represents two faults, of about four feet each, seen on the face of
one of the vertical exposures of strata. They were, in all probability, produced during
earthquakes. l

Seams and layers of gypsum were abundant in the banks on the side of the hill as we de-
scended to the dry bed of the creek; and by the decomposition and wearing down of the beds,
this mineral has become detached, and lies distributed on the surface in thin, transparent plates
and fibrous masses. Other banks, higher up the creek, also contained thin seams of gypsum,
associated with layers of sand, containing a large amount of peroxide of iron.

The cache of barley and the fossils, which we had made when on our way to the Gila, was
found undisturbed, and I left the trail to give the locality of the fossils a further examination.
The hill is on the north side of the valley, and stands alone, having a flat top, and the sides
partly covered with great blocks, which have fallen from the upper stratum. This stratum is
over fifteen feet thick,! and is formed entirely of the fossil shells and their fragments, mingled
with a little clay. These fossils were so firmly impacted together that it was difficult to detach
a single shell.

They all had a dark-brown color, and appeared to be changed in composition or silicified,
but consisted of carbonate of lime.?

The top of this hill presents a level surface not over one hundred feet in breadth. A thin
stratum of drift-stones was lying upon it, all of them being very smooth and glistening, look-
ing as if they had lain there for ages. Among them I found several masses of silicified wood,
one of them so large that I was unable to bring it away; smaller specimens were, how-
ever, obtained. In these the grain of the wood was well preserved ; and all the small knots,
and the rings of annual growth, were remarkably distinct. One of the specimens, in which the
rings were perfectly shown on the ends, appeared to have been flattened by pressure, so as to
produce elliptieity in all the rings. The specimens picked up on the desert slope were of simi-
lar formation and color. Wherever these specimens have lain out upon the surface exposed to
the continued action of the loose sand, they have become worn and polished, so that the grain of
the former wood is more distinctly displayed, by which their beauty is greatly increased.

CARRIZO CREEK TO SAN DIEGO.

. December 15.—Carrizo Creek to Vallecito, 21 miles.—The water of Carrizo creek does not
appear at the surface for many miles west of the entrance to its valley from the Desert. The
greater part of the valley is entirely dry and sandy, and almost as forbidding as the Desert.
The monotony is broken by a clump of palm trees on the north of the trail, and a green bank
from which springs issue, known as the “Palm Springs.”

These were situated under a bank of argillaceous, sedimentary beds. The water rises at
various places, and seems to saturate the ground so thoroughly for a space two or three hun-
dred feet in diameter, that a hole dug in any part of it soon becomes filled. The water was
sulphurous, and gave off a slight quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. A slight efflorescence
of nitre was seen on the surface of the ground around the pools. The water, however, was not

1 I find this thickness recorded in my notes; but five feet more nearly agrees with my recollection of the locality.—

1855.
For a description of these shells, see Appendix, Article IL

ee Ba Td A a T ee Tan al ne LI ONE a ESI] T HEMOS ra SIE MERI e RN

PALM TREES, AGAVE AND CACTACEA. ۱ 123

so strongly charged with these ingredients as to be unpleasant to drink, especially after having
used the stagnant and muddy water of the Desert. I found its temperature, under the shade of
a palm tree, to be 60° ; air, 70°. Three or four palm trees, each about thirty feet high, are
standing on the bank from which the springs issue. They are much injured by fire and the
persevering attacks of emigrants, who have cut down many of the finest of the group, as if
determined that the only trees that grace the sandy avenue to the Desert, and afford a cool
shade for the springs, should be destroyed.

The Maguey, a species of Agave, or the ‘‘ American aloe," grows abundantly in the sands
along the dry bed of this part of the creek, and in some places it completely covers the ground
for long distances. This plant sends up tall cylindrical stems to a height of ten to fifteen feet,
bearing immense clusters of beautiful yellow flowers. "These bunches are almost large enough
to fill a flour-barrel ; one of them that I cut down was too heavy to be conveniently carried.

Numerous varieties of cactaceze, from the opuntia and melocactus, or ‘‘ Turk's Head," to the
most slender and thorny species, grow abundantly among the plants of the Agave. These
plants, together with the Fouqueria, Dalea, and the palm trees, give a peculiar character to
the landscape.

The mountains on each side are entirely bald and free from soil. "They present a most rugged
and forbidding aspect, and reflect back into the valley the scorching rays of the sun, and keep
off all the cooling breezes. The climate of the valley is thus exceedingly hot; it is even more
uncomfortable than the open Desert. The sun's rays seem to have peculiar power and effect ;
and more animals die in this valley, after reaching the water, than on the open Desert.

Near to Vallecito, the valley grows narrow, and the ascent more rapid. The sedimentary
strata are no longer seen, and the granitic rocks appear and form the high ridges on each side.
These ridges are barren; and by long weathering have become of a dark-brown and nearly
black hue, and in some. rA present various shades of a dull red.

December 16.— Vallecito to San Felipe, 18 miles.—Vallecito is the first place i: grass and
vegetation greet the eyes of the traveller who has crossed the dreary Desert. It is a narrow
valley between the granite ridges, and is well supplied with springs that are surrounded with
grass and willows. These springs furnish good water, slightly impregnated with sulphuretted
hydrogen and alkaline salts. Nearly opposite the camping-ground the granite is gneissoidal
and slaty ; but it passes into the more compact and hard variety within a short distance. The
whole is traversed by feldspathic veins. $ |

The ridges on the right of Vallecito appear to have a distinct trend to the east of north—
nearly N. 45? E.—while those on the left bear off to the west, or N. 11? W. These two
Systems of trends appear well developed, and give rise to transverse ridges, which, by their
intersection, enclose a series of quadrangular valleys or basins. There are several of these
enclosed spaces between Vallecito and the dividing ridge near Warner's; and they give a pecu-
liar character to the slope of the chain of mountains, breaking the ascent by a series of level
spaces, separated by short but precipitous ridges. "Thus, instead of a continuous gradual ascent
through a long, narrow cation or ravine, you pass in succession from one nearly level plain,
enclosed by ridges, abruptly upwards to the level of another similar one, and so on, by a series
of stair-like elevations, to the summit.

These enclosed spaces are generally nearly filled by accumulations of drift, and fine debris of
granite, derived in part from the weathering of the surrounding ridges. This filling-in
of a basin is generally so complete that the surface of the plain is often as high as the crest of

A Es SS A A

124 GEOLOGY.

the ridge bounding it on the lower side. This gives the basin the appearance of having been
filled to the brim during a period of submergence. In most cases the drainage waters of these
spaces find exit through a narrow gorge or ravine, at a point lower than the general level or
crest of the ridge, and the basin appears but partly filled. Thus, about four miles from Valle-
cito, the trail passes over a narrow ridge of granite, which separates between two valleys or
basins, The abrupt ascent from the lower valley to the crest of this ridge, where crossed by the
trail, was much greater than the descent on the other side to the level of the upper valley ; show-
ing a considerable difference of altitude between the two. "These high valleys between the ridges,
filled with wash and soil, may be regarded as the reproduction, on a small scale, of a charac-
teristic peculiarity of the Great Basin, which, as has been shown, is filled in some places nearly
to the crest of the bounding ranges.

The rocks between Vallecito and San Felipe, as seen along the trail, are mostly laminated
and gneissoidal. About seven and a half miles from Vallecito, at the point where the trail
makes an abrupt turn to the northeast, and winds in a narrow cut in the rocks, the laminated
character is highly developed, and the lamina are much flexed and contorted. The general
trend is N. 30? to 45? W.; and the notes upon the dip indicate a synclinal flexure of consid-
erable extent, at that point. Compact granite, exposing a granular and friable surface, was
also noted, and numerous feldspathic veins traverse the mass of rock. Many of these were of »
great magnitude, and consisted essentially of feldspar, associated with quartz and tourmaline.
Several veins of this kind showed distinctly on the side of a ridge adjoining the trail; they
were remarkably regular and parallel, and were from ten to twenty feet thick, dipping south-
west at angles of about 45°. At San Felipe camp, the prolongation of one of these feldspathic
veins forms the base of the ridge on the north, and contains black tourmalines of gigantic
dimensions. Their crystallization is, however, so imperfect that no good cabinet specimens
could be obtained. They, however, present some peculiarities of crystallization.

No sedimentary rocks are visible between Vallecito and San Felipe; the valleys are narrow,
and bounded by rugged ridges of granitic rocks alone. There is but little vegetation between
the two points ; the Agave and several varieties of cactus grow among the rocks, and several of
the former were in flower.

San Felipe.—The valley of San Felipe is more extensive than that at Vallecito. It is also at
a much greater elevation, and is bounded on one side by the summit-ridge of the sierra. It is
well supplied with water by springs, and on the west side, by streams from the adjoining heights.
Pine timber also grows on parts of the ridges towards the summit; in some of the sheltered
ravines it is abundant, and of good size. Cotton-woods border one of the small streams for &
short distance in the plain. The soil is good, and there is abundance of grass. — —

The stream, which flows from the springs in the lower part of the valley, finds its passage
through the mountain, outwards to the desert, in a narrow, rugged cañon, on the north side, à
little to the eastward of the Indian village. The rocks, as exposed along this natural section,
consist of alternations of compact granite, with the laminated varieties. The trends are nearly
north by the needle, and the planes of the beds or laminz nearly vertical. |

The rocks in the bed of the stream are partly covered by a remarkable incrustation, evidently
deposited from the water. It was a foot thick in several places, and enclosed stems of reeds and
small shells like those living in the brook. The occurrence of this calcareous crust on the rocks
in a small brook, flowing towards the dry bed of the former lake, where such immense quantities
of caleareous material once accumulated, is highly interesting. It, however, bears no resem-

METAMORPHIC ROCKS—GRANITE—WARNERS PASS. 125

blance to the incrustation on the rocks of the Desert, except in its chemical composition. We
encamped at the springs, on the same ground where we had camped twice before. The night
was very cold, and all the ridges were white with snow.

December 17.—San Felipe to Santa Isabel, 25 miles.—The ridges bordering the San Felipe
valley are of granitic rocks. Af and about the summit ridge, the highest point on the trail
between the Pacific and the Colorado Desert, the granite is compact and syenitic, weathering
into large, rounded, gray blocks, resembling Quincy syenite. Mica is one of the composing
minerals; this with the hornblende and feldspar -are in small crystals and evenly distributed,
giving the mass a uniform texture. Oak trees grow luxuriantly on the soil formed by the
decomposition of this gray granite, while the gneissoidal rocks, a little to the northward, appear
almost barren, This is the region of trees and vegetation, and to the traveller presents a great
contrast with the bald rocks and sandy desert between it and the Colorado.

Before reaching the summit, we left the road and ascended the rocky ridge on the right,
finding it to consist of gneiss and mica slate, undoubtedly metamorphie rocks. From the top
of this ridge a long and narrow valley could be seen extending up from the Desert towards
Agua Caliente, (Warner's.)

SANTA ISABEL.
The ground at the summit of the pass was covered with snow about two inches deep, but the
air was not very cold. We descended the western side of the mountain, and passed the ruins of
Warner's adobe house, but instead of turning north to our former encampment in the valley,
turned off to the south on the road to Santa Isabel. This road winds through a narrow and
well-wooded valley adjoining the southern end of Warner's. The same compact granitic rock

126 . í GEOLOGY.

seen at the summit, continues to extend on the left, and by its decomposition furnishes an
excellent soil. We crossed many small streams, which furnish abundance of water to all parts
of the valley, and permit the luxuriant growth of grass and oak trees. All the hills along the
road were green with oaksl and chamizal, delighting the eye with their verdure after the
pilgrimage on the Desert. ۱ à

Santa Isabel is a beautiful valley among the mountains, well watered, and bordered by groves
of oak and other timber. It has a varied and undulating surface, and a good granitic soil.
Adobe buildings of great size were erected here iu the time of the Padres, but are now partly in
ruins. They were, however, in part, occupied as dwelling and storehouses, the valley being
used as a cattle rancho. The surrounding hills were but sparsely wooded, but were covered
with dried grass, showing the presence of a deep soil and abundant verdure during the spring
and early summer. '

December 18.— Santa Isabel to San Pasqual, 23.5 miles.—Gray, compact granite, similar to
that at Agua Caliente, was found in the vicinity of Santa Isabel. About seven miles beyond, it
became more syenitic in its character, and the surfaces that had been exposed to weathering, and
to decomposition in the soil, exhibited small, brilliant crystals of green hornblende, standing
out in relief, having resisted decomposition better than the feldspar, in which they were im-
bedded. Several miles beyond this point, on the side of the hill, the soil is colored red by a
large amount of peroxide of iron, probably derived from the decomposition of pyrites. Frag-
ments of quartz veins were also abundant. Large veins of feldspar and quartz were numerous
along the road, and could be traced on the slopes of several ridges in the vicinity. Their white
color showed distinctly through the green shrubs covering the hill-sides, and there appeared to
be several nearly parallel veins. The first of these that was observed had a trend nearly north-
west and southeast, magnetic. It appeared to be principally composed of coarsely crystalline
feldspar, quartz, and tourmaline, with garnets, similar to the vein found on the other side of
the divide at San Felipe. The feldspar in this vein, however, was more highly crystalline, and
good crystals can be obtained there. The tourmaline, by its decomposition and abrasion, fur-
nishes a large amount of black sand, which is distributed along the beds of the brooks and
rivulets of the vicinity. ;

Just before reaching the lagoon, the direction of the veins was found to be more nearly east
and west, several of them having a trend of only five degrees north and west, magnetic.
Observation of the trend of the granite at that point gave the same result. These quartz veins
and the red soil so highly charged with iron were regarded as indicating the presence of gold,
but no examination or '* prospect’ could be made for it. We travelled very rapidly, and there
was little opportunity for examination of the rocks beyond the trail. :

After winding about the hills by a very crooked road, we reached the Rancho of Santa Maria,
a fine open valley or plain, with good grass and water.

The observations made, under date of December 16, respecting the elevated valleys of the
eastern slope of the mountains, will apply to this, the western side, also. The true character
of the descent is not so distinctly visible as where the rocks and surface are almost entirely free
from vegetation ; but still it is evident, in descending towards the Pacific, that you pass succes”
sively from a high plain to a low one by a sudden descent, showing the existence of stair-like
elevations or terraces, very different from the character of the slopes of the Sierra Nevada.

1 Leaves of a species of oak growing most abundantly along the valley were collected, and. have been submitted to p
Torrey. He regards the oak as very near Q, imbricaria of the Atlantic States. :

ELEVATED VALLEYS— SEDIMENTARY HILLS. 127

The valleys of Santa Maria and Safi Pasqual, although near together, differ greatly in eleva-
tion. The road connecting the two places winds down long and almost precipitous hills. From
the top of the principal hill an almost bird's-eye view was obtained of the valley of San Pasqual.

VALLEY OF SAN PASQUAL. }

It is small, and hemmed in on all sides by high hills or mountains. The plain was covered
with green grass, and the windings of a stream were visible. A fine view was also presented
of the mountains beyond, but there did not appear to be a unifornity in the trend of the ridges ;
they were exceedingly irregular. '

We encamped in the valley on the bank of a brook, near a village of Indians. The valley
appeared to be very damp, and probably is well watered throughout the year.

December 19.— San Pasqual to San Diego, 29 miles.—The country beyond San Pasqual is
more open, and the granite ridges are less prominent and distinctly defined than about Santa
Isabel and Warner's. Rounded hills of sedimentary orgin make their appearance, and contain

rolled, water-worn boulders. These hills are of considerable altitude, and appeared to be prin-

cipally formed of granitic sand and clays. From the summit of one of them the Pacific ocean
was visible in.the distance; and looking inland, towards the mountains we had been descend-
ing, the predominating direction of the minor ranges and ridges appeared to be nearly north-
west and southeast. Some of the highest peaks and ridges were whitened with snow.

The rounded, sedimentary hills were free from large trees ; but their slopes were already green

* By a mistake, either of the artist or the engraver, the ocean is too fully — À in the engraving, and appears too
near. It is very distant, and, according to recollection, is scarcely visible from the hill

MSS:

d
29]
"nm |

E
SE.

128 GEOLOGY.

with the young shoots of the wild oat springing up luxfriantly. It was evident that these
hills were underlaid by granite at no great depth, as it frequently rose to view in low ridges.

A trap dyke, traversing the granite, was noted at a point about half-way between San Pas-
qual and the Mission, but I could not ascertain its direction with accuracy. A short distance
beyond this dyke, a section of a low hill near the trail exposed a bed of conglomerate, six feet
thick, dipping gently towards the southeast, at an angle of five degrees. It was full of rounded
fragments, from one to three inches in diameter, all firmly cemented together, and underlaid by
loose, sandy beds. The materials of the HEN were much water-worn, and it had the
appearance of beach shingle.

A second exposure of trappean rock was crossed two or three miles westward of the first.
The direction of this last intrusion appeared to be nearly the same as the prevailing trend of the
granite ridges—northwest and southeast—and it appeared to form the last range of hills be-
tween the mountains and the Pacific. Westward from this point the country was entirely open,
extending off towards the ocean in a broad, gently sloping plain, broken only by slight eleva-
tions around the bay of San Diego. |

This wide slope flanks the foot-hills of the mountains for a long distance, both to the north
and south of San Diego: Its rate of descent is so gradual that it seems like a plain, and appears
to be unbroken by a single valley ; but by travelling upon it, it is soon discovered that streams
have cut their way below the surface, and excavated numerous deep, narrow channels and
valleys, in one of which the Mission of San Diego is situated.

When the observer is in one of these excavated valleys, the view of the surrounding country
is completely cut off by the continuous banks on each side. The surface of the slope is strewn
with rounded pebbles and cobble-stones ; and in some places these are thrown together in low
heaps, like the accumulations upon a beach. These water-worn accumulations, together with
the gentle and uniform slope of the broad-plateau, give to it so much of the character and ap-
pearance of a shelving ocean beach, that, when an observer stands near its upper portions, on
one of the banks of pebbles, and hears the dull sound of the distant surf, itis n Ge to resist
the conviction that it once broke among the pebbles at his feet.

There is a wide area of cultivable land about the Mission! confined, however, to the valleys

below the general level of the slope. "There were few or no good exposures of the strata forming
the slope, and no favorable natural section was seen. The strata are nearly horizontal, and
probably Tertiary. While in camp, a mass of sandstone, filled with Tertiary fossils, was sent to
me, but its precise locality could not be ascertained. It was probably taken from the adjoining
hills, or picked up in the bed of one = the streams. On the way from the Mission (six miles
inland from the bay) to **Old Town,'” or San Diego, I passed a slight exposure of the strata at
the road-side, and found them to be composed chiefly of sand and argillaceous beds, some of
them quite dark-brown, and nearly black with bitumen, indicating coal or liguite.

At Punta Loma, there is an exposure of strata made by the undermining action of the sea.
It is probable that the strata are more recent than those of the slope, having a modern appear
ance, and not being firmly consolidated. "They appear to dip gently towards the east or from
the sea.

Before leaving San Diego, I collected many shells along the beach, and found a thick layer

with the
red

1The Mission of San Diego was founded by the Padre Junipero Serra on the 16th of June, 1769, and became,
Presidio, the first establishment of the Spaniards in New California, although the port of San Diego had been discov’
a long time before. This Mission, which the Franciscans called the Mother Mission, is seventeen leagues north of San
the most northern Missiop in Old California, and fourteen from the Mission of San Luis Rey de Francia.

= E] -

RAISED BEACHES AT SAN DIEGO AND SAN PEDRO—FOSSILS. 199

of large and small shells near the top of one of the banks bordering the beach, and about twenty
feet above the water. These may have been taken there by men or birds, but were imbedded in
the soil, and looked like the remains of an old beach. An immense quantity of kelp is thrown

SAN DIEGO FROM THE BAY.

up on the clean, sandy beach by the waves, and forms a beautiful object when spread out to its
full length. The only hills adjoining the bay are those of Punta Loma, and thus no sections
of the strata were obtained. All the low banks were sandy.

SAN DIEGO TO SAN FRANCISCO.

December 23.—San Diego to San Pedro.—We left San Diego for San Francisco in the steamer
Southerner in the afternoon and reached San Pedro the next morning. A high bank or bluff,
of nearly horizontal strata, was seen to overhang the beach ; and, on landing, it was found to be
eomposed of argillaceous beds and sandstone, together with shales. The bank was highest to
the right of the landing, and appeared to be from forty to sixty feet or more in height. It was
nearly vertical; and, at high tide, the surf must reach its very foot. One of the beds near the
base was very dark-colored—a greenish-black, or dark olive-green—and was evidently bitu-
minons, giving off the odor readily when struck by the hammer. Higher in the series, the strata
were lighter in color, but were much stained with peroxide of iron distributed through the
earth and aggregated into nodules or concretions, which, at many places, protruded from the
vertical bank. At the base of the bluff, and on the sand of the beach, a great number of loose
tabular blocks of calcareous sandstone—three, four, and even six or eight feet across—showed
the presence of à hard stratum in the vicinity, and it was believed to be near the top of the
series, although not made evident by overhanging tables. "These blocks were very hard, and
not rapidly worn away by the surf. The flat surfaces were marked by sun-cracks, as if they
had been exposed to the sun and air while in a soft and unconsolidated state.

A gentle flexure in the lines of stratification of these strata, as exposed in the bank, showed
that they had been subjected to disturbance by the injection of igneous rocks or otherwise At
the point, the dip was nearly five degrees, and the trend of the oo apparently, north 50°
west. ;

Still further to the EXT the bank became oak and the beach more bead Other and ap-
parently more modern accumulations took the place of the high bluff, and were found to con-
tain vast quantities of marine shells in a layer about thirty feet above the panini The bank
presented the following succession of layers, from the top downwards:

1. Dark soil, containing f. ts of shell ; 3 ` 4 feet.
2. Coarse sand, with’ shells and beach-shingle at the base j - ae
3. Sea-sand, in layers, with seams of broken shells 20 «

At tie base of No. 2 there was a layer of pebbles and masses of a calcareous and argillaceous
17 r-

130 GEOLOGY.

rock, perforated in every direction by boring-shells, which were still remaining in their cells,
one or more shalls being often found in the same cavity. The layer of fossils consisted, in great
part, of fragments, evidently the debris and ruin of a beach. A great number of beautiful spe-
cimens were, however, obtained before the time for returning to the steamer arrived.

In passing back along the beach, it was observed that great numbers of these fossils had been
broken out by the waves, and strewn along the beach among the recent shells. They could,
however, be distinguished by their color, but did not appear to differ much in their forms.
Under the high bluffs, I found many rounded masses of rock as black as ebony, and very smooth
and light, and yet presenting very fine lines of stratification, as numerous and as thin as the
leaves of a book. These were at first thought to be a peculiar coal, but the fracture showed
them to be very hard and vitreous. "They had the lustre of an impure resin, or hard tar. On
drying, the surface became white, the fresh fractures remaining black, or a dark greenish-black.
(Nos. 155 and 156 ofthe Catalogue.) A fragment of sandstone, traversed by seams or veins
of clear bitumen, was also found. ۱

Numerous species of living shells were collected : they were very abundant on the beach and
rocks at low tide. | | :

The surface of the country is gently rolling, or nearly a plain, and there are no trees. A
warehouse at the landing and two or three tenements were the only evidences of inhabitants.
The harbor is very open ; but a limited space could be protected by a breakwater.

December 24.—Santa Barbara.—The mountains back of this place rise to a great height, and
appéar to extend nearly east and west. A narrow and abrupt slope to the sea is the site of the
town. Trees were observed, and the Mission buildings presented a fine appearance on the high
ground back of the town, which is near to the beach. There being no wharf, freight was landed
through the surf, being taken from the boats on the backs of the men. Dr. Heerman, who
went on shore, found a bank similar to that at San Pedro, and obtained several fossils, among
them a gigantic ** boat shell," or Crepidula. The mountains at this part of the coast are 80
near the sea, and so rugged, as to appear almost impracticable for a railroad.

December 25.—San Luis Obispo and Monterey. —We stopped for a few moments only at San
Luis Obispo, and reached and left Monterey in the night, so that no observations on the rocks
of these two places could be made. Arrived at San Francisco on the afternoon of the 26th of
December, :

GEOLOGY OF PORTIO

CHAPTER XI.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE OROGRAPHY AND GENERAL FEATURES OF
RELIEF OF THE MIDDLE AND SOUTHERN PORTIONS OF CALIFORNIA.

GRANDEUR OF THE MOUNTAINS AND PLAINS.—SIERRA NEVADA AND ITS PROLONGATIONS SOUTHWARD.—BERNARDINO SIERRA.— PENIN-
SULA SIERRA.— HIGH VALLEYS AND TABLE-LANDS OF THE NORTHERN PORTION OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.— TREND OF
UTHWEST AND NOTHEAST TREND AT THE SOUTHERN END.—ELEVATION OF THE CHAIN.—Passes.—SOUTHERN LIMIT OF PERPETUAL
SNOW.— BERNARDINO SIERRA.—[Í' XTENT AND POSITION.—TREND.—THE BOUNDARY OF THE GREAT BASIN ON THE SOUTH.—GEOLOGI-
CAL RELATIONS TO THE SIERRA NEVADA.—SUDDEN CHANGE IN THE TREND OF THE COAST AT POINT CONCEPTION.— SLOPE TO THE
SEA.—DIFFERENCE OF ALTITUDE BETWEEN THE COAST SLOPE AND THE GREAT BASIN.—ELEVATION OF THE CHAIN AND PASSES.—
RMERLY CALLED SIERRA MADRE.—PEZNINSULA SIERRA.—EXTENT.—TREND.—GENERAL ELEVATION.—SHARP AND RUGGED OUT-
LIME. —COMPOSITE a wi MOUNTAINS. — PARALLEL RANGES AND VALLEYS.—OVERLAPPING OF THE RANGES.—SUB-
MERGED RANGES INDICATED BY THE LINES OF ISLANDS.— AVERAGE ELEVATION.—RANGES BETWEEN SAN FRANCISCO AND THE SAN
JOAQUIN. a a, R BREAK IN THE WHOLE CHAIN.— GOLDEN GATE — VALLEY OF THE SALINAS.— VALLEY OF THE
BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.—MOUNT DIABLO AND LIVERMORE'S VALLEY.— MOUNTAINS OF THE GREAT BASIN AND DESERT.—ISOLATED
CHARACTER. —SLOPES. —Par UTE RANGE.— DESERT RANGE.—PLAINS AND VALLEYS.—GREAT VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. —RIVERS.—
TULARE LAKES.—COLORADO DESERT. re wees OF THE PLAIN.—ELEVATION. Anion OF RIVERS.— TREND. —ELEVATION COM-
PARED WITH THE COAST SLOPES AND THE GREAT BASIN.

That portion of the continent within the limits of the State of California presents a greater
variety in the relief of its surface, and in its climate and vegetable productions, than any other
portion of equal area. The lofty chains of mountains, towering into the regions of perpetual
snow, are perhaps not more striking and peculiar than the broad, plain-like valleys which lie at
their base, and separate the principal ranges.

The prominent orographic features are developed on a grand scale, and with such site
relations that à conception of them is readily formed. The chief range—the Sierra Nevada— -
rises like a great wall of separation between the State and the elevated semi-desert region of the
Great Basin, and extends from the northern boundary as far south as the parallel of 35°. Par-
allel with this, and extending over a similar distance, we find the Coast Mountains; the two
Systems of ranges being separated by the broad plains of the Sacramento, San Joaquin, and the
Tulares, but uniting i in latitude 35 degrees ; thus terminating the extended, interior valleys on
the south.

South of this point of aide of the Sierra Nevada with the Coast Mountains, there is but
one prominent range of mountains separating the coast-slope from the Great Basin and desert
Plains of the interior. Its direction is also different from either the Sierra Nevada or Coast
Mountains, being nearly transverse to them, extending a few degrees south of east for more than
100 miles to the peak of San Bernardino. This is described in the notes as the transverse chain,
the Bernardino Mountains, or Bernardino Sierra.

The peak of San Bernardino is separated from a high mountain south of it—San Gorgoño—
by a considerable break or gap, known as the pass of San Gorgoño or San Bernardino. From
this pass, southwards, the mountains form a continuous line AA the peninsula of Lower

Y See Chapter VI, p. 55.

WETTER S DA SI poy) a TA ROE

184. x GEOLOGY

California to its extremity at Cape St. Lucas. This line of elevation will be described as the
Peninsula Sierra.

In addition to the lines of elevation which have been enumerated, there are others of less
extent in the Great Basin, and separating it from the Colorado river. Ranges are also found
between the Peninsula Mountains and the Colorado ; but all of these are only the southern
extremities or prolongations of ranges which reach their greatest development beyond the limits
of the State. The prineipal mountains of the State may thus be described under five groups or
divisions—the Sierra Nevada, Bernardino Sierra, Peninsula Sierra, Coast Mountains, and Great
Basin Mountains.

SIERRA NEVADA.

The explorations of the northern portion of the Sierra Nevada have shown that it is formed
of many and neariy parallel ranges, enclosing elevated table-lands and valleys, precisely as in
the Great Basin. There is no one predominant ridge or range towering high above the rest,
thus forming a single and well-defined summit-line ; but the ranges become gradually merged
into the elevated region of the Great Basin. Very little is yet known of the central portions of
the Sierra, but all the observations which have been made show that it is similarly formed.
‘The results of the survey, from Walker's Pass southward, confirm those made at the north—
establishing the existence of a series of elevated valleys or basins between ridges of nearly
equal elevation. lam ۱

The general direction of the ranges composing the Sierra, from the sources of the Sacramento
southward to the headwaters of the forks of the American river, is north and south, or north
few degrees west. South of this point, or nearly east from San Francisco, there is a deflection
of the chain to the east, so that its direction becomes northwest and southeast. Still further
south, the line is more nearly meridional, and from latitude 36°, or at the sources of Posuncula
river, near Walker’s Pass, the chain curves towards the southwest to its termination at the Tejon
near the parallel of 35°. This curvature towards the southwest is the only known instance of a
northeast and southwest trend in any considerable part of the mountains of California. It is,
however, probable that this direction is due in part to the overlapping of ridges which have
nearly a meridional direction. 1

The pass called the Canada de las Uvas may be regarded as the extreme southern limit of the
Sierra, this being the line of division between it and the Coast Mountains and Bernardino
Sierra. The whole length of the chain, measured from this point to its northern end near to the
boundary, is about six hundred miles, reaching from latitude 42° to 35°. It is not yet possible
to determine, even approximately, the average altitude of this chain, for but very few observa-
tions on the height of the peaks have yet been made. The elevation of many of the passes has,
however, been determined, and estimates made of the heights of the adjoining peaks; but these
have generally been in the most depressed parts of the chain , Where it was most accessible and
easily traversed. According to Captain Beckwith, the plateau, or broad plains, on the flattened
crest of the Sierra, near the Madelin Pass, have an elevation of about 5,000 feet, and a width
of twenty miles; while the adjoining ridges on each side rise from 500 to 3,000 feet higher.

The observations of Messrs. Day and Goddard, of California, who have explored routes for &
wagon-road near the central portions of the Sierra Nevada, show that the average elevation of
the passes is not less than 7,000 feet.! ,

‘Report of George H. Goddard, esq., in report of Surveyor General of California, 1856.

ae. re A ee eee, a
T 3 n

PASSES—SOUTHERN LIMIT OF PERPETUAL SNOW. * | 353

The chain retains a great elevation even south of latitude 37?, lofty snow-covered peaks
being visible from the Tulare plains, and the outline being much broken and serrated. South
of 36?, however, the altitude decreases, until at the Tejon the highest points are not over 7,500
feet above the sea ; and the height of the passes, according to the determinations of the Survey,
range from 4,000 to 5,300 fees. The elevations of the passes in the chain, so far as known, are
exhibited in the table:

ELEVATION OF PASSES IN THE SIERRA NEVADA.

. Name of pass. Latitude. Longitude. Altitude. | Authority.
Que ee A N

Madelin Pass P : s. 40 44 12 5,667 | Beckwith.
Plateau ۱ a a el 5,420 4
Second summit of Madelin Pass 5,596 ES
Noble's Pass x 6,074) “
Catrón Pass 38 42 15 ۱119 56 41 | 7,972 | Goddard.
Luther's Pass z i id: E ic.
Daggett's Pass im 6, 824 3 ۳
Breccia Pass, near the middle fork of the Stanisl y. 10,150 =
Johnson’s Pass co > 6, 752 | s
Walker's Pass ee 35 39 00 5,306 | Williamson.
Humpahyamup ...- ae 35 33 38 5,351) —
Taheechaypah Pass Lis 35 07 28 |^ 4,008 1
Tejon 35 02 47 | 118 43 31 | 5,34 | «
Cafiada de las Uvas i 34 54 40 PA -4,315 "

The elevation of the peak of Shasta is estimated as not less than 18,000 feet, and several peaks
or ridges near the sources of the American , the Calaveras, and Stanislaus rivers aro; probably,
over 12,000.

Summits, covered with perpetual snow, are visible in favorable conditions of the air from the
valley of the Sacramento, and appear but little nearer to the observer when he has travelled
thirty or forty miles towards them, and ascended 2,500 or 3,000 feet. They are also visible from

theSan Joaquin plains, and present a beautiful appearance from the vicinity of the Four Creeks,

on the Tulare plains. The snow-covered peaks and ridges form a long line, and, although dis-
tant, stand out in full view, and glitter in the sun's rays, or become tinted with red and purple
at sunset. The chain ceases to merit the name of snowy nearly under the parallel of 36? ; for,
from this point, southward, the snow does not remain through the year. This point is in
the Vicinity of Walker's Pass, and is just north of the sources of Posuncula river. Between
Walker's Pass and the Tejon the elevated valleys are well watered by streams, the soil is deep
and good, and grass grows luxuriantly. "There are, also, extensive por of beautiful oaks,
covering parts of the surface so as to form natural parks. _

BERNARDINO MOUNTAINS, OR BERNARDINO SIERRA.

The ranges which compose the tias Sierra are nearly transverse to the southern end of
the Sierra Nevada, and extend from that point, a few degrees south of east, to the high, and
well-known peak of San Bernardino, in longitude 117°.

136 GEOLOGY.

The mountains having this transverse direction do not, however, end abruptly at the end of the
Sierra Nevada, but preserve their direction beyond it, towards Point Conception on the coast, thus
crossing the southern ends of the Coast Mountains also. The chain is rendered distinct from
the Coast Mountains, not only by its direction, but by its geological structure, it being granitic
and metamorphic, while the ranges of the Coast Mountains are chiefly of more modern and sedi-
mentary strata. The limits of the Bernardino Sierra, on the west, may thus be considered to
be at the termination of the high granitic ridges north of Santa Barbara, although, topographi-
cally, it is believed to be prolonged nearly to Point Conceptiou. As, however, the topography
of that region is but little known, the precise limits of the chain cannot be assigned, its rela-
tions to the terminal ranges of the Coast Mountains not being determined. The whole length
of the chain from San Bernardino to its eastern end is between 170 and 200 miles, it being
about 200 from Point Conception to the mountain. The length, along the northern or interior
slope of the chain, from the end of the Sierra Nevada, eastward, is about 120 miles.

The mean or average direction may be considered as west 20? north, east 20? south; this
being the direction of that part of the chain between San Bernardino Mountain and the end of
the Sierra Nevada.

These mountains, east of the Sierra Nevada, are the only wall of separation between the
elevated surface of the Great Basin and the sea, being, in fact, the southern rim of the Basin,
and holding the same relation to it as the Sierra Nevada on the west. There is no great range
or chain of heights between the chain and the Pacific corresponding to the Coast Mountains west
of the Sierra Nevada. Low hills and a line of intrusive rocks are found, but they do not form a
prominent topographical feature, or exert a marked influence on the climate. The sudden and
remarkable change in the direction of the coast-line found at Point Conception is produced by
thisline of mountains. From a general northwest and southeast trend cf the coast, parallel

with the Sierra Nevada and Coast Mountains north of Point Conception, the direction becomes;
on the south, nearly east and west, conforming very nearly to the base of the chain. The slopes
of the mountains thus face the south, and the climate of the region differs very greatly from
that north of the cape. In the vicinity of Santa Barbara, a range rises directly up from the
water, and is not flanked by a slope; the shore-line is thus very clearly defined, and is nearly
east and west in its direction. East of San Buenaventura, on the coast, the shore-line is 0
longer coincident with the base of the ranges, but trends more to the south, the base of the
mountains continuing inland with nearly the same direction, leaving a broad slope between P
- and the beach.

The difference of altitude between the upper margin of this seaward slope and the margin of
the slope of the Great Basin on the other side of the chain is worthy of special notice. It 154
marked feature in the relief of the region. The foot of the ranges at several points on the south
side varies from 1,000 to 1,500 feet in elevation, while a corresponding line on the side of the
Great Basin has a mean elevation of 3,000 feet or more. E.

The mean elevation of the chain can be only approximately given , but the numerous surveys
of the passes by the Expedition, and the reconnoissance along the northern slope; permit à close

estimate to be made. "The number of passes show the broken character of the chain, and 4

plotted results of the Survey exhibit an overlapping position of the ranges. The passes, W!

scarcely an exception, are oblique to the general trend of the chain, and are coincident de

some marked geological feature, forming long valleys extending between the ranges-

"UNE SU Lo A ln Di E, to io in PIECE
4 Se و‎ rd
Ba Mol

BERNARDINO SIERRA—PASSES AND AVERAGE ELEVATION. 137

order of succession of the passes from the Cañada de las Uvas eastward to San Bernardino,
together with their elevation above the sea, as determined by the survey, is as follows:

Cajon de Tenoco "4,256.
San Francisquito 3,445.
Williamson's (New Pass) 3,164.
Cajon 4,676.

These are mentioned in the order of their succession from west to east, and all of them lead from
the Great Basin to the coast slope, the Cajon de Tenoco leading southward from the summit of
the Cañada de las Uvas. The elevations of the summits are but little above the margin of the ,
Basin slope, and the line of water-shed is nearly coincident with it. This is strikingly ex-
hibited at the Cajon Pass, where the summit is formed of the unconsolidated materials of the
Basin slope. West of the Canada de las Uvas, or the Cajon de Tenoco, the chain has been but
little explored. "The mountains back of Santa Barbara are high and rugged. A break further
west, called the Gaviota Pass, is said to be only 600 feet above the sea.!

The most elevated point in the chain is the peak of San Bernardino, in longitude 116° ۰
Its elevation is variously estimated at from 7,000 to 9,000 feet, but is probably not over 8,500.
The summit is bald and rounded, and probably composed of granite. It has a grey color, and
is covered with snow for the greater part of the year. This mountain is a noted landmark, and
has been used as an initial point by the United States land survey. Other high ridges in the
vicinity of the Cajon are probably not over 2,000 or 2,500 feet higher than the summit of the
pass, and thus about 7,000 feet in elevation. The average elevation of the chain is probably
about 6,000 feet, |

The altitude of this chain, as well as its geological structure, indicates that it should be
regarded as the southern prolongation of the great chain of the Sierra Nevada, rather than of
the Coast Mountains. It is entirely different from, the latter, topographically, in its direction,
and in its geological structure. The Coast Mountains find their equivalents in the minor ranges
nearer the coast—the San Fernando range and others, composed of uplifted Tertiary strata and
of intrusive rocks or dykes.

Subordinate parts of the Bernardino Sierra are known under local names, as, for example:
Qui-quai-mungo range, San Gabriel range, San Fernando range, and Santa Inez range. The
whole chain, or a portion of it, was formerly called Sierra Madre by the Padres—probably from
the fact that the Sierra Nevada, the Coast Mountains, and other ranges seem to spring from it.
The name, however, appears to have been applied in the most general manner, and has not
passed into use; as, also, it is now applied to the principal range extending from the table-
land of Mexico, or Anahuac, into the territories of the United States, it is not desirable to retain
it for the chain which has been described. ‘The name Bernardino Sierra? is therefore proposed.

PENINSULA SIERRA.

A great change in the direction of the mountains is found at the eastern extremity of the Ber-
- hardino Sierra. From the general east and west direction, the trend becomes nearly north and
south, so that a nearly rectangular intersection of the chains is formed. The ranges of the Ber-

! On the authority of Professor James Nooney, of California, from barometrical observations made in 1849.

* The Spanish word Sierra, applied to mountains, denotes a range or chain with a serrated outline like the teeth of a saw;
Or, as commonly used, a chain of mountains or pointed summits. As the word has become Anglicized in New Mexico ana
California, where it is in constant use, I adopt it as the equivalent of the expression, chain of mountains.

18 F

138 GEOLOGY.

nardino Sierra are not, however, bent and connected with those having the meridional direction,
but are separated by a wide break, or pass of low elevation, leading from the coast slope to the
interior. This is known as the Pass of San Gorgóño or San Bernardino, and is directly south of
the peak of San Bernardino, separating it from the high peak of San Gorgorio on the south.

From the peak of San Gorgoño southward there is a continuous chain of ranges and ridges
separating between the coast slope and the interior plain or valley of the Colorado desert, and
further south, between the waters of the gulf and the Pacific, as far as the extremity of the
Peninsula at Cape St. Lucas. The valley of the gulf reaches, as will presently be shown, as
far north or northwest as the base of San Bernardino Mountain, and, in fact, the chain divides
the valley of the gulf from the Pacific, being peninsular in its character throughout. It may,
therefore, with propriety, be called the Peninsula Sierra or Peninsula Mountains. These and
the adjoining mountains are indicated on the map of Major Emory as the Cordilleras of Califor-
nia; but the name is evidently used in its most extended sense, and not intended to be specific.

The northern part of the chain—that portion north of the boundary—is more nearly north
and south in its direction than the part south of the boundary line, forming the main part of the
peninsula. -The position of the ranges at the northern end is such that, when viewed from
the valley of San Bernardino, they appear nearly due north and south, and apparently abut
against the Bernardino Sierra at right angles. The general axis of the northern end of the
chain has, however, the trend north 25? west. ۱

The average elevation of the Peninsula Sierra from San Gorgoño to the boundary is probably
less than that of the Bernardino Sierra. San Gorgoiio is the highest peak, and is probably
7,000 feet in elevation. The ridges near Warner's Pass are probably 5,000 feet in elevation ;
and the pass—the principal one of the chain south of the San Bernardino Pass—is 3,780 feet.
A pass near the boundary has about the same elevation.

The crest of this chain is much broken, and the sky outline, as seen from the Colorado desert,
is peculiarly sharp: ànd rugged, simulating the teeth of a saw, thus deserving the expressive
word sierra. There are many ranges and ridges, trending generally in northwest and southeas
lines, oblique to the axis of the chain. This composite character and overlapping of the ridges
is shown in the region of Warner's Pass, where a line of elevated valleys or slight basins
separate the ridges, and trend parallel with them to the northwest. Other and similar valleys
are known to exist north of these, but they have not been explored. The interior slopes of the
mountains are rocky and barren, while the seaward sides are covered with grass and trees.

COAST MOUNTAINS.

In California the term Coast Mountains is generally understood to refer to the geveral ranges
of mountains lying west of the Sierra Nevada, extending from Oregon to Point Conception, and
forming the barrier between the long, interior valleys of the Sacramento and San J oaquin and
the Pacific ocean. The name will be used in the same sense in the following descriptions. Lu
mountains lying between the Sierra Nevada and the coast, when first seen from the valley p
the Sacramento, appeared to consist of but one range or crest along the coast, and therefore
received the name of Coast Range. Exploration has, however, shown that there are many ۳
parallel ranges rising between the Sacramento and San Joaquin plains and the Pacific, and En
the name Coast Range has gradually given place to the more comprehensive and general one
Coast Mountains. : -

ee ae ee N TE

. The breadth over which these ranges extend varies at different points. At San Francisco it is

COAST MOUNTAINS—SUBMERGED RANGES. 139

In the latitude of San Francisco there are three prominent ranges: the first, or most western,
bordering the Pacific, called the San Francisco and San Bruno range; the second, Central or
Contra Costa range; and the third, Diablo range. These are separated by longitudinal valleys
of considerable extent.

We also find long, parallel ranges with included valleys in the latitude of Monterey. Point
Pinos, which extends out into the sea, and forms the bulwark of the bay of Monterey, is the end
of a long and elevated range, formerly called the Sierra de Santa Lucia.’ which extends south-
ward, and forms the coast-line nearly to San Luis Obispo. This range is probably granitic, |
and forms a bold, rocky shore for nearly its entire length. This range is separated from another, |
further inland, by the long and extensive valley of the Salinas or San Buenaventura river. The y

۰
EEE PR ia ade
AEG 5

second range appears to be the prolongation of the mountains forming the northeastern shore of
the bay—the Santa Cruz range. It is crossed by the road from Monterey to San Francisco at a
point near the mission of San Juan, and is there known as the San Juan range; further south it is
sometimes called the Gavilan or Salinas range. A third or inner range forms the eastern side
of the Benito valley, and divides it from the San Joaquin. The valley of the Salinas is about
sixty miles in length, and near its northern extremity about twelve wide. The bay of Monterey
may be considered as formed by the junction of this valley with the sea.

In the latitude of San Luis Obispo the same characteristic parallelism of ranges prevails, At
that point they are bold and elevated, and the topography of the interior is as yet but little
known. The ranges north of San Francisco are also parallel, and separated by valleys.

We have thus seen that the Coast Mountains do not form one, single, continuous ridge bordering
the sea, but that they consist of many parallel ranges, enclosing long and extensive valleys.

about 40 miles, at Monterey 60, and further south, between the Tulares and the coast, nearly
70 miles. The breadth is even greater towards the north—north of the bay of San Francisco.

The general direction of all the ranges between Sir Francis Drake’s bay and Point Conception
is northwest and southeast, being parallel with the trend of the Sierra Nevada, and coincident
with the general trend of the coast-line, this, in fact, being determined by the mountains.
Sudden bends or inflexions of the coast-line are found at several points, as, for example, the bay -
of Monterey, which occupies the space between the end of one range and the side of another,
the outer range passing beneath the sea at Point Pinos, and thus leaving the valley of the
Salinas open. This disposition of the ranges shows an overlapping charaeter, which is found
also at other points of the Coast Mountains. The ranges appear to be placed en echelon, and
to overlap towards the northwest in an ascending order from south to north. This arrange-
ment is visible on a good topographical map of the country, and may be seen, within a limited
area, on the charts of the bay of San Francisco and San Pablo, where the inner ranges pass
beyond and terminate north of the outer.

The groups of islands, ranged in lines parallel to the coast and the adjoining ranges of
mountains, may be regarded as the culminating points or crests of submerged ranges. I have
80 considered them in recent observations on the hydrography of the coast, prepared for Pro-
fessor A. D. Bache, of the United States Coast Survey.? It is probable that there are three
marine ranges, altirough: there may be but two. One is nearly east and west in its direction,

k RET te
EI EEE ON TEN
x
BE وک‎ mT ER T SF c A AA EHER

1 So named by Vizcaino, December, 1602. —(See an extract from موس بوسر را‎ Monarchia Indiana, in Venega's History of
California, ii, p: 282.)
*See Report of the Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey for 1855.

EE ی ای‎ Seba ie a SEP ات‎ IS ONT ELEC ie Le RT UU Dos, ERUNT T TEGI

140 GEOLOGY.

and is indicated by the islands of Anacapa, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, and San Miguel. It is
nearly parallel with the Bernardino Sierra, and holds a relation to that chain similar to that of
the Coast Mountains to the Sierra Nevada. If the whole region, with the bed of the ocean,
were lifted up, so as to drain the valley now occupied by the channel of Santa Barbara, a valley
would be formed similar in many respects to that between the Sierra and the Coast Mountains.

With regard to the general or average elevation of the Coast Mountains we are without
sufficient data to form an -accurate conclusion. Several determinations of altitude have been
made in the vicinity of San Francisco, but the observations along the ranges south of that point
are very few. Table Hill, north of the entrance to the bay, is 2,569 feet high, and there are
many higher summits beyond. South of the entrance, the San Francisco or San Bruno range
commences in hills of moderate elevation, but increases in altitude towards the south, until
opposite the valley of San José the average elevation of the range is not less than 2,000 feet.
There are many lofty ridges between San José and Santa Cruz.

Blue Mountain, a few miles southwest of the city, is 1,097 feet high, and another point a little
farther south is 1,263. The Contra Costa range, opposite San Francisco, probably has the
average elevation of 1,800 or 2,000 feet. One of the summits, nearly opposite the entrance of
the bay, is reported to be 1,952 feet high.! This range forms the highlands on the east side of
the bay, but does not rise abruptly from the shore, being flanked by a margin or gentle slope
of alluvial origin, upon which the villages of Oakland, San Antonio, and Clifton are built.
Further south, it is much broader and more valuable for agriculture.

The third, or Diablo range, extends southeasterly from Mount Diablo, bordering the broad
valley of the San Joaquin. It is separated from the Central range by a long valley—a part of
which is known as Livermore's; but nearly opposite the south end of the Bay of San Francisco
the two ranges appear to unitein one. The average elevation of a part of this range is not 80
great as the Contra Costa or San Francisco range. It is composed of a series of hills with
rounded outlines and a moderate elevation ; but at the northern extremity, Mount Diablo rises
with a bold and rugged outline to an altitude of 3,960 feet. It is a majestic mountain and a
prominent landmark, being visible from distant points in the Sacramento and San J oaquin
valley, and from the ocean when approaching the entrance to the bay. It is also distinctly
visible from the city of San Francisco, rising high above the crest of the Central or Contra Costa
range. The low hills, which constitute a part of the range, bound Livermore's valley on the i
east, and are broken by several passes—one of which (Livermore’s) was surveyed by the Expe-
dition, and found to have an altitude of 686 feet. |

The southerly prolongation of this range—beyond the point of unison with the Contra Costa
or Central range—reaches a greater altitude, and is marked by several prominent peaks which
have not been fully explored. Pacheco’s peak, which is nearly opposite the headwaters of the
San Joaquin, is reported to be 2,700 feet in elevation, and to be composed of volcanic rocks.?

The entrance to the Bay of San Francisco—the Golden Gate—together with the channel
reaching to the valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, is one of the most remarkable
breaks in a chain of mountains which is yet known. It is like a great cleft or fissure, and
extends at right angles to the trends of the ranges. The ridges end abruptly on each side of
the Golden Gate. Those on the north side, being undermined by the currents, present bold,
vertical cliffs of rock, and thus increase the resemblance to a great cleft. The shores of the

1 For these altitudes see charts of the Bay of San Francisco, by Cadwalader Ringold, commander U. S. navy, 1850.
۶ Report of Lieut. R. S. Williamson.— (Senate, 31st Cong., Ist sess., Ex. Doc. 47, p. 35.) a
3 J. B. Trask—verbal communication.

VALLEYS OF THE COAST MOUNTAINS—GREAT BASIN RANGES. 141

pay, and the channel eastward to the interior valleys, are broken by projecting headlands, the
ends of ranges which exhibit an almost perfect parallelism, trending with the main lines of
elevation in northwest and southeast lines. A series of parallel coves, or long bays, are formed
by these promontories, and many of the ranges can be traced from one side of the break to the
other, as at Benicia. The islands of Yerba Buena, Angel island, and others, will be seen to
be in the line of trend of adjoining headlands.

The most extensive valley in the Coast Mountains is that of the Salinas river, reaching south-
ward from the bay of Monterey between the Sierra Santa Lucia and the Gavilan or Salinas
range. Its northern end forms a great part of the shore of the bay of Monterey, and it extends
southwards for sixty miles, and is traversed by the Salinas. It forms one great plain, and in
its lower portions is without the trough-like character common to the valleys which receive side-
streams from the bordering mountains. Its area may be approximately stated as 400 square
miles.

The three ranges in the latitude of San Francisco bound two principal valleys. "The most
extensive is that of the bay, occupied in its southern prolongation by the villages of Santa Clara
and San José, and generally known, in its southern portion, as the valley of San Jose. It is
of considerable extent, being over 60 miles in length from north to south ; its southern extremity
connecting with the valley of the Pajaro river, which empties into the.bay of Monterey.

The width of the valley between the bases of the mountains, at its widest part, a few miles
south of San Francisco, is about 15 miles. The shores of the bay are low and alluvial, and
where a river enters, they are deeply indented by long and crooked channels. At the southern
end of the bay there is a wide area of low, marshy land, which is alternately covered and left
bare by the tides. From this swampy tract the ground rises almost insensibly to the broad and
plaindike expanse of the San Josó valley, remarkable alike for its delightful climate, the
richness of the soil, and its adaptation to agriculture.

The second valley, or rather a series of valleys, lies ¡EA the Contra Costa and Diablo
ranges, and is known in its different parts as Mount Diablo, Amidor’s and Livermore’s valley.
The drainage of Mount Diablo Valley is northwards into Susuin اه و‎ and of Livermore' s east-
ward, into the bay of San Francisco.

MOUNTAINS OF THE GREAT BASIN AND DESERT. |

The mountains of that part of the Great Basin included within the limits of the State of
California do not form continuous and well-defined ranges like those already described. They
rise in broken and isolated ridges, having a general north and south direction, but distributed
at intervals over the elevated surface of the Basin, and pot characterized by the linear arrange-
ment found to prevail further north. Exception must, however, be made for the eastern ridges
and ranges of the Sierra Nevada, which, in the vicinity of Owens' lake and Walker's lake, trend
in long lines, and become, in some cases, ranges of the Basin.

A linear disposition of the ranges is also found on the eastern border of the Basin, where they
unite to form a line of mountains, called by Captain Whipple the Pai Ute range, separating the
Basin from the valley of the Colorado. This lineis continuous towards the north from the moun-
tain of San Bernardino. The Mojave river flows along its western base until, finally, it sinks
in one of the lowest valleys. When viewed from the surface of the Great Basin, the chain
appears very much broken into ridges and isolated, conical peaks, and they are seen to be connected

142 GEOLOGY.

by long slopes, which, by their intersection, produce elevated valleys or basins. It appears to
be a combination of these ridges and included slopes which forms the eastern boundary of the
Basin, rather than one or more prominent and well-defined ranges.

According to the observations of Captain Whipple, who crossed the mountains between the
Colorado and the Soda Lake, at the end of the Mojave, the line of elevation consists of a com-
bination of ridges and valleys, so that its surface is exceedingly irregular. The elevation of
the summit at the point of crossing was found to be about 4,900 feet above the Colorado, and
5,300 feet above the sea.! The general elevation of the peaks does not much exceed this; they
are probably not more than 600 feet higher. The barometrical observations of Captain Whipple
show that the two slopes of the range are nearly alike in their inclination. The direction
or trend of the whole range, or its general axis, at that point, is nearly north and south, or
inclining slightly to the northeast; but it is very probable that most of the ridges are oblique
to the general trend of the range, and, by their overlapping, produce the deflection of the main
axis to the northeast, this being the direction of the line of water-shed between the Basin and
the Colorado from that point northwards. | ۱

South of the Pai Ute range, and between the Colorado and the Peninsula Sierra, we find a
succession of ridges, which bound or form the northeastern side of the Colorado Desert. When
seen from the inland base of the Peninsula Sierra these ridges appear to form one continuous
range, trending nearly northwest and southeast from the northern base of San Bernardino to
the mouth of the Gila. In traversing the Desert, however, the mountains are found to rise in
succession in long projecting ridges above the horizon, thus showing the broken or composite
character of the range, and that the ridges overlap. This structure is more clearly visible from
the extreme south western point of the range, a few miles northwest of Pilot Knob, near Fort
Yuma, at the mouth of the Gila. It is most probable that the ridges are separated by long,
narrow valleys, trending nearly northwest and southeast. ‘The distance to which the ranges
extend towards the north is not yet known, as the region lying between them and the Mojave
river has not been explored. The existence of a broad, open plain in that direction has been
reported, and this renders it most probable that the mountains form one line or range from the
Gila to San Bernardino. They are so represented on the map. The same chain appears pro-
longed, southeast of the mouth of the Gila, into the Mexican State, Sonora. "The ranges there
have the same general trend, are in the same line, and form the first chain of mountains east
of the shore of the Gulf, from which it is separated by a nearly level and desert-plain—the
Sonora Desert. These ranges are all rocky, and, to all appearance, entirely barren. Their
elevation, within the limits of California, probably does not exceed 3,000 feet. s

The sky-outline of the mountains, north and northwest of Fort Yuma, is exceedingly varied
and picturesque. In some places they rise in sharp peaks or pinnacles, with vertical sides like
chimneys, and in others form domes, so regular in curvature that they seem like works of art.

PLAINS, VALLEYS, AND SLOPES.

The valleys of California may, for convenience of description, be grouped in four divisions:
First, the low and broad valleys, which by their extent become pläins ; second, the mountain
valleys, (generally elevated ;) third, the elevated valleys of the Great Basin ; fourth, the river.
valleys or caiions. poe ۱

A brief, general description of the valleys of the Coast Mountains has already been presented,

* Report of Captain A. W. Whipple, U. S. Top. Engineers. See also the Report on the Geology of the route, P- 5-

GREAT PLAINS OF CALIFORNIA—RIVERS. 143

and it is sufficient for the purposes of this chapter to give, in addition, a general description of
the two principal valleys of the State—that between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Mount-
ains, and the valley of the Colorado Desert—with their relations to the elevated region of the
Great Basin, and the broad coast slope south of the Bernardino Sierra.

The great valley or plain of California, lying between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast
Mountains, is traversed in its lowest portions by the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, which,
flowing from the north and the south, unite in the latitude of San Francisco, and empty into
the bay. It, however, extends far southward of the sources of the San Joaquin, and includes
the broad valley of the Tulare lakes, generally known as the Tulare Valley, which, although at
some seasons without drainage to the sea, is, topographically, a part of the extended plains
under consideration. The limits of the valley on the south are determined by the union of the
Sierra Nevada and the Coast Mountains under the parallel of 35°, and on the north it extends
beyond the parallel of 40?, near to the head waters of the Sacramento, or over five degrees of
latitude, a distance of more than 350 miles. Its average breadth south of the mouth of the
American river, in the Sacramento, is about fifty-five miles; it being fifty miles at the mouth
of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, at the sources of the San Joaquin sixty miles, and across
the Tulare lakes over sixty. its whole area probably exceeds 15,000 square miles, which is greater
than the united areas of the States of Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut,

This broad area is unbroken by hills or sudden swells of the surface, and thus, being nearly
level, becomes a vast plain—the vision in the direction of its length being bounded by the dis-
tant horizon alone. The broad and level expanse is made more evident and striking to the
observer by the general absence of trees, and the arid and و یت‎ surface during the dry
season. ۰

The average elevation of these plains above the sea is not great. A large portion of the
surface bordering the Sacramento and San Joaquin, near their mouths, is but little elevated
above tide-water, and is overflowed during freshets. This portion is, however, properly the
delta of those streams, and is an extended alluvial marsh, where rushes and grass grow luxuri-
antly. A low border of alluvium is also found along the principal rivers. From this level the
surface rises gently and.very uniformly towards the base of the mountains, reaching, in some
places, an elevation of only two or three hundred feet at the foot-hills, or first sudden swells of
the surface, at the base of the more rocky and higher ridges of the mountains. At other points
towards the south end of the valley and, probably, also at the northern end, the upper part of
the slope has a much greater altitude, and extends far up on the sides of the mountains. Thus,
at the Tejon the lowest portion of the Tulare Valley at Kern Lake is 398 feet above tide, and the
surface rises from this polnt very gradually towards the surrounding mountains, reaching, in a
distance of about nineteen miles , an elevation of 1,900 feet at the entrance of the Tejon Pass,
and 1,600 at the entrance of the Cañada de las Uvas.

The two great streams, the Sacramento and San Joaquin, follow the axis of the valley for the
greater part of their course, and receive the waters of numerous tributaries, flowing nearly at
right angles to them, and rising in the Sierra Nevada on the east. On the other side there
are, however, but few streams from the Coast Mountains, and these are of slight extent or im-
portance. Most of the rivers from the Sierra are liable to great floods or freshets, and thus vary
in the volume of their water at different seasons. At the border of the great valley, where they
emerge from the cafions of the mountains, their banks are high and steep, and generally ter-
raced ; lower down the stream, the banks become lower, the streams wider, and, in many in-

144 GEOLOGY.

stances, they expand so as to break up into many shallow channels, and even to become entirely
lost by evaporation or absorption in the sand and gravel of the plain. The San Joaquin rises
in the heights of the Sierra, and flows westerly at right angles to the axis of the valley, like its
tributaries, until it reaches the centre of the valley, and then flows northwest in the direction
of its length.

South of the San Joaquin, there are several large streams flowing from the Sierra Nevada into
` the Tulare lakes. The lakes are broad, but shallow, sheets of water, with shelving shores, so that
a slight increase of the volume of the water during the rainy season covers a large area of the
surface. When the water is very high it is said to flow into the San Joaquin, thus connecting
the two valleys by drainage.

The valley of the Colorado Desert is, in many respects, similar to the Tulare Plains, but is
more heated, arid, and desert-like. It is properly the northern prolongation of the valley of the
Gulf, reaching from its shores to the base of San Bernardino, and bounded on one side by the
Peninsula Sierra, and on the other by the ranges extending from the Gila to the mountain
of San Bernardino. Its length to the head of the Gulf is thus about 180 miles, and its average
breadth about 50, giving for its area 9,000 square miles. Its southern portion, or nearly half
the area, is beyond the southern boundary of the State, and within the limits of Lower Cali-
fornia. The elevation of this broad, plain-like valley is very slight, and a portion of its surface
is probably below the level of the sea. It thus constitutes an important feature of the relief
of the surface of the State. It is without any rivers, and only one or two small streams reach
its borders from the Pass of San Barnardino and the Peninsula Sierra. These are speedily
absorbed in the sand or evaporated. During seasons of very high water in the Colorado there
is an overflow, which, extending inland to the lower parts of the Desert, forms & stream called
New River.

The trend of the longer axis of the plain or valley is: nearly — and southeast, being
parallel with the mountains on each side, and coincident with the direction of the plains of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin. The elevation of this valley presents a striking contrast with
that of the coast slope on the opposite side of the mountains at the same distance from the
crest. There, the elevation of the slope is not less than 1,000 feet, while the surface of the
Desert is but little above the sea, and, in some places, is below it. But the contrast is still
more striking when we compare the elevation of the Desert with the general surface of the
Great Dasin, on the other side of San Bernardino, its average altitude being about 3,000 feet.
Thus the conditions of elevation characterizing the opposite sides of the Bernardino Sierra are
completely reversed in those of the Peninsula Sierra. In the former, the interior plains are
most elevated ; in the latter, they are the lowest. San Bernardino is thus an interesting point
in the physical geography of the State. It stands as a dividing pillar in the approaching angles
of three broad areas of unequal elevation, and as dissimilar in their climate and productions.

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CHAPTER XII.
GEOLOGY OF THE VICINITY OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ENUMERATION OF THE PRINCIPAL FORMATIONS —GRANITE NORTH AND SOUTH OF THE GOLDEN GATE.—GEOLOGICAL MAP.—SAN FRANCISCO
SANDSTONE.— POINTS AT WHICH IT IS EXPOSED.—SECTION AT YERBA BUENA.—SANDSTONE AND SHALES.—DECOMPOSITION OF THE ROCK.—
GLOBULAR MASSES, THE RESULT OF DECOMPOSITION,— COLOR OF THE ROCK.—LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS.— REMAINS OF PLANTS.—STRATA
UNDER THE 0175 RESEMBLANCE TO TRAP ROCK.—POINT LOBOS.—ANGEL ISLAND.—STATE’S PRISON QUARRY.— SECTION OF THE STRATA.—
DISLOCATION OF A BED OF THE SANDSTONE.—MARIN ISLAND.—BENICIA SANDSTONE.—NAVY POINT.—CONGLOMERATE.—SECTION OF THE
STRATA AT NAVY POINT.—HARD BLUISH-GREEN MASSES.—PROBABLE SYNCHRONISM OF THE STRATA WITH THOSE NEAR SAN FRANCISCO.—
EXTENSION OF THE STRATA SOUTHWARDS NEAR MOUNT DIABLO.—SANDSTONE AT NEW ALMADEN, SAN JUAN, AND NORTH OF THE GOLDEN

TE

GATE.— BELLINGHAM BAY SANDSTONE PROBABLY THE SAME.—ÀGE OF THE FORMATION.—Fossı ROBABLE TERTIARY AGE.—SECTION
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE PACIFIC.—METAMORPHIC SANDSTONE.—JASPERY OR PRASOID CHAR E CK3.— GRANITE.—
TRAP.—SERPENTINE.—FORT POINT.—DIALLAGE OR BRONZITE.— (LOBULAR CHARACTER OF THE ROCK.—STRATA IMBEDDED IN THE SER-
PENTIN OST TIARY AND ALLUVIAL DEPOSITS.—ENCROACHMENT3 OF THE SEA.—DRIFT OR SURFACE ACCUMULATIONS.—SAND

DUNES.—BEACH ON THE PACIFIC SIDE —HAPPY VALLEY.—STRATIFICATION AND RIPPLE MARKS,—ARTESIAN WELLS AT SAN FRANCISCO

AND 8AN JOS

The principal rock formations of the vicinity of San Francisco are sandstones and shales,
together with erupted trappean rocks and serpentine—all, probably, of comparatively recent
geological age. Granite and the associate rocks were not seen near San Francisco, but they,
probably, form the central portion of the San Francisco or San Bruno range, as far south as
San José, or the mines of New Almaden, where a white crystalline limestone occurs. Granite
is found in the Santa Cruz Mountains, and at Point Pinos, Monterey. It also outcrops on
the coast north of the Golden Gate, forming the projecting headland called Punta de los Reyes,
and the group of small islands , about twenty miles from the Golden Gate, known as the Far-
allones.

A small Geological Map of the vicinity of the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco is pre-
sented with this chapter, and will serve to show the geology of the headlands and the adjoining
shores.) A fine-grained, compact sandstone, associated with shales, is the prevailing rock. It
underlies the city of San Francisco, and is exposed along the shores of the bay, both north and
south of the city, forming the principal promontories and points, and several islands. On
entering the bay, from the Pacific, the rock is first seen at Point Lobos, the outer point, and
again at North and Tonquin points. It borders a part, at least, of the Golden Gate, on the
north, and forms the shores of Richardson’s and Saucelito bays. Angel and Yerba Buena islands
are also of this sandstone formation. In several places, hills and ridges, of over two or three
hundred feet in elevation, are formed entirely of this rock, and the wearing action of the sea, at
their base, and the break in the ranges forming the Golden Gate, have produced favorable sec-
tions where the characters of the strata may be studied. Availing myself, therefore, of these

* Since the printing of this report commenced, I have had the opportunity of seeing the volume on the Zoology of Captain
Beechey’ s Voyage, in which I find some observations on the geology of the vicinity of San Francisco, prepared from the
notes and collections of Lieutenant Belcher, by Professor Buckland. A map of the headlands, embracing about the same
area as in the map accompanying this report, is also given in illustration. This is colored around the shores so as to indicate
the several formations. Serpentine, sandstone, and jasper rock are represented.—Zoology of Captain Beechey's Voyage to the
Pacific and Behring’ s straits in 1825,~’26,-’27, and 28. 4to, London, 1839. :

19 F

146 GEOLOGY.

natural exposures, and of the excavations made in quarrying, the strata were examined at the
following places: City of San Francisco, Points Lobos, San Jose, Tonquin, and North, Yerba
Buena island, Alcatrazes island, Angel island, Point San Quentin, north side of the Golden
Gate, and along the shores of the Sancelito bay. Rocks, probably identical in age, were also
examined at Benicia, New Almaden, and between San Juan and Monterey.

One of the best sections, where the lithological characters of a part of the formation are fully
دج‎ is at Yerba Buena, the island directly opposite San Francisco. This is ۸

2L . entirely of the sandstone and shale; the strata are laid bare by the action of
- the water around the base of-the island, and form a bold rocky shore, which
in many places appears to offer great resistance to the persistent denuding
action of the waves and strong currents. On approaching the island from
the Rer. ii ۳ RS of stratification become visible, and the beds are seen to dip westward,
toward the observer. There are > also several places where the strata are bent and contorted,
as in the figure.

On the south end of the island a quarry has been opened. At this point the edges of the
strata are distinctly exposed, and are seen to dip about 20 N. of E., at an angle of 45°. The
position and general characters of the strata may be best exhibited by a short local section, the
total thickness represented being about two hundred feet. The thicknesses of the compact beds

SECTION OF SANDSTONE AND SHALE, YERBA BUENA.

EN
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of sandstone vary from a NY inches té six 7 EET feet; the dyer, alternate with beds of
argillaceous slates and shales. All the weathered surfaces of this series of beds are of a rusty-
brown or drab coior, which extends throughout the rock to a depth of from ten to twenty feet,
down to the limit of atmospheric influences, There are, however, parts of the upper beds that
have not yet been reached and changed by decomposition; these parts are found in the condition
of spherical or ellipsoidal masses, from which the weathered parts scale off in successive crusts.
These nuclei have the appearance of great rounded boulders, and have accumulated in great
numbers at the base of the cliff. They are of various sizes, but are smallest in the upper parts
of the strata, near to the surface.
This spherical or globular condition does not appear to be the result of any peculiar arrange
سس‎ ment of the material of the strata, a concretionary action, such as takes place
: gn pasig ai in the igneous rocks, but is probably due to decomposition—the result of the
/ \ \ absorption of infiltrating waters, charged with impurities. A solid and homo-
© J N geneous cube of sandstone thus exposed, under conditions favorable for absorp-
E ER | tion of the water on all its sides, would decompose most rapidly on the angles,
۹ == producing a succession of curved surfaces gradually approaching a sphere, a8
is represented in the figure.
These necessary conditions for the infiltration of water exist in the strata. Each layer of rok
is divided into þlocks of various sizes by joints, or cleavage planes, similar to those traversing

SAN FRANCISCO SANDSTONE—LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS, 147

crystalline rocks; these are nearly vertical to the planes of stratification, and cut through all
the beds. Seams are thus formed for the access of air and water.

The color of this sandstone is dark bluish-green, inclining to gray. It is exceedingly compact
and tough, and does not break so easily as the fine-grained red sandstone of the Connecticut
river and New Jersey quarries. Its texture varies but little in the different beds; the grain is
close and even, and generally very fine.

The grains are chiefly silicious, and are mingled with those of finely triturated glassy feldspar
and other minerals, the whole being apparently cemented together by fine particles, or probably,
in part, by carbonate of lime. Nearly all of the specimens submitted to examination were found
to be calcareous, and effervesced freely with acid. This is true of specimens from the other
localities, so far as examined, and the rock may with propriety be called a calcareous sandstone.
Oxide of iron is an important constituent of the rock, and it is probably in the form of protoxide,
for the interior portions are greenish-blue, and on exposure become rusty brown or drab, the
result of the formation of the sesquioxide. The iron may be present in combination with sulphur;
one or two minute grains of pyrites were detected in some of the specimens.

Numerous films of a dark slate-colored substance are distributed in parallel planes through
the mass of the rock. They are often coal black, and some are soft, like clay or shale, and are
sometimes in small lenticular masses, which can be easily excavated with the point of a knife.
Some of the beds contain many more of these masses than others, and they determine the direc-
tion of easy fracture of the rock. One of the beds of soft shale was highly charged with black
masses, and they were, without doubt, the remains of plants, a coaly substance being distinct in
the thickest layers. The films in other parts of the rock were, in most cases, composed chiefly
of clay, and may be fragments of shale.

The position of these beds of sandstone is highly favorable to the operation of quarrying, and
the stone can be readily loaded at a wharf and ferried over the channel to the city. It will be
found to be a highly valuable and elegant building material.

The same formation of sandstone and shales underlies the city, but there is no exposure where
the strata can be so conveniently studied as at Yerba Buena, or where they are so free from decom-
position and fissures. Thestrata are apparently much more bent and broken up, and the action of
the atmosphere and surface water has extended to a greater depth below the surface. The best
section, at the time of my observations, was along Pacific street, where Telegraph Hill had been
cut away. At that place the stratification was very distinct, and the alternation of thick beds
of argillaceous sandstone, with shales and slate, was visible. Numerous curves and flexures of
the beds render the dip variable, but its prevailing direction is eastward. The rocks crop out
on the top of the hill, and look like ordinary trap-rock which has been exposed to the weather.
These rocks are again exposed along Dupont street and Broadway, and they form the shores of
North Point. They also project out into the channel between Telegraph Hill and Fort Point,
forming Tonquin Point and Point San Josef. At all these places decomposition of the rock
has extended so deeply that the unaltered portions had not been reached by the excavations, and
the true color and lithological characters of the rock were not exhibited. At one or two points
about the city, however, deep excavations into the rock for wells showed that, in color and com-
position, the rock was similar to that at Yerba Buena. In fact, the general characters of the
Strata are the same, and the rusted and decomposed exterior crust of rock has nearly the same
appearance at both places. The detailed description of the Yerba Buena stone may, therefore,

148 GEOLOGY.

be regarded as, in general, applicable to the unchanged portion of the rock at San Francisco,
and at other points about to be mentioned. The sandstones at Point San Josef and those of
Telegraph Hill are traversed by thin and irregular seams of quartz, running in various direc-
tions. These may have had their origin at the time of the intrusion of neighboring igneous
rocks, being deposited along the sides of slight cracks and fissures by escaping hot vapors.
Veins of carbonate of lime, nearly the same in size and appearance as those of quartz, are also
found traversing this sandstone in some places, but the two minerals were not found together.
Point Lobos—the outer headland of the Golden Gate on the south side—is likewise of sand-
stone, similar to that of San Francisco. The continued action of the ocean swell has worn the
rocks into rugged cliffs and excavated caverns and arches. Many large masses are detached
from the cliff, and lie scattered about in the surf. These isolated island rocks are the places of
resort for sea-birds and the huge ** sea-lion.’’

The direction and dip of these strata are not very distinct at this point. The greater part of
the formation is hidden from view by an immense deposit of blown sand, and the surf prevents
any extended examination under the cliffs. A local trend of a few degrees north of west was,
however, observed. ` On the opposite side, or north shore of the channel, the prevailing dip is
westward, and it is more than probable that the rocks of Point Lobos have the same direction.
These strata extend eastwardly as far as a little brook that descends from the Mountain lake,
and empties into the channel.

Excavations for building-stone have been made on the southeast end of Angel island, which
bears northwest from Yerba Buena, and is in the range of the strata. It is composed of sand-
stone, similar to that on Yerba Buena island, but is not so dark in color or so hard. Specimens
which I have examined contain a notable quantity of carbonate of lime. The strata dip west-
wardly, and the quarry is opened on their upturned edges, and not at the ends of the beds, as at
Yerba Buena. The weathered surfaces of the strata present the same rusty color as those at
San Francisco and Yerba Buena, and the divisional planes or cleavages are numerous.’

Another extensive outerop of sandstone, and a quarry, is found at the State's Prison, on Point
San Quentin. It is worked, by convicts, to a greater depth than either of the other places that
have been described. It is the same sandstone formation, and furnishes a large quantity of
good “blue stone." The excavation (in 1854) had extended to a depth of about thirty feet
below high-water mark; at that depth the blocks of stone are larger, and without the rusty
color attendant on surface decomposition. The trend of the strata is nearly north 50° west; the
dip southwest at variable angles, ranging from 45 to 55 degrees. The lay of the strata and the
general outline of the quarry is shown in the annexed section; the horizontal line on the left
representing, nearly, the height of the waters of the bay.

The strata rise into a slight hill on the east side of the opening, and soon loose the compact,
massive character, becoming thinner and more broken, and then pass into a thick body of
argillaceous shales.

The operation of quarrying below the surface is, وود‎ more expensive than excavating

1 I have represented Angel island on the map as wholly formed of sandstone and shales, although I did not visit the
western portions. It has, however, the appearance of the sandstone. Lieutenant Belcher, it appears, collected specimen?
of serpentine on the western side, and the occurrence of jasper rock is noted. It is further stated that the opposite l
of the main land, or promontory on the north, afford specimens of actynolite, mica slate, and talc slate.— Zoology of ape
Beechey s Voyage: Geology, p. 175. It is possible that frag ts of the slaty serpenti here mentioned as tale slate, and the
mica slate may have been a transported mass, for it is not probable that the true micaceous slates occur at that point.

QUARRIES—DISLOCATIONS OF THE STRATA. 149

the stone from a bank or elevation; in addition to the inconvenience of working a quarry in this
form, the waters of the bay percolate through the bank and accumulate in the lower part of the
excavation. The bank of stone does not, however, rise much over 30 or 40 feet above high-
water mark, and it is very much decomposed and broken up, so that the excavations are neces-
sarily below tide.

SECTION OF THE STRATA AT THE STATE'S PRISON QUARRY.

Large blocks of stone are taken out of this place. They split readily into various desired
sizes, and are easily cut and chipped. When dressed or hammered, the surface has a pleasing
shade of color, which is much lighter than the bluish-green stone of Yerba Buena, being more
gray. Fragments of the stone effervesce briskly when placed in dilute hydrochloric acid, and
many of the blocks are traversed by thin veins and seams of white, crystalline carbonate of lime.
Where these veins are exposed on a weathered surface, they stand out above the sandstone,
showing their superior resistance to degradation.

The slaty character of some of the beds is well seen in the excavation. Thin layers of only
a few inches in thickness occur between the beds of solid stone. These slates or shales are darker
than the sandstone, and appear to have been subjected to great pressure. Many bendings and
plications of the strata have occurred at this locality, and at one side of the quarry there is an
interesting dislocation and fault of one of the beds, which bears interesting testimony to the
action of violent compressing forces. This dislocation i is represented in the figure.

DISLOCATION OF A BED OF SANDSTONE, STATE’s PRISON QUARRY.

This bed must once have. been continuous, the several parts being joined on to each other in
the order in which they are numbered. It is now broken in three places, and the two ends of
the main portions were pressed together so as to throw out a fragment on each side. The space
between the blocks is occupied by highly contorted and crushed shales, enclosing some angular
fragments of sandstone.

Stone from this quarry, roughly broken out into blocks, was selling in the city of San Fran-
cisco for ten dollars a ton—[1854.] It is readily chipped and dressed, and, when hammered,
makes a good surface for the fronts of buildings. It is certainly a valuable building material,
and is far superior to the partly decayed and friable stone from the Benicia beds.

Another interesting outcrop of the strata is found at Marin island, a small island about four

Ze

150 GEOLOGY,

miles northeast of the State’s Prison quarry, and nearly opposite the Mission of San Rafael,
The strata are highly inclined, and dip W. 30° N., at an angle of about 60°, trend N. 30° E,

They are composed of thickly bedded sandstones, alternating with shales, and the stone is
more like that from Yerba Buena than that taken from the State's Prison quarry. It has a dark
bluish-green color and a fine grain, and the black spots are not so abundant as at the other
localities. Abundance of good building-stone can be obtained at this place, and it is accessible
for tonnage vessels.

All the points and headlands around Marin island appear to be formed of similar rocks.
They outcrop also on the opposite side of the channel, and form low ridges, trending about
northwest and southeast. In sailing up the bay towards Benicia, the same strata appear to be
continuous, and seem to be the only formation. The strata are exposed at many points along
the shores, always with the same rusty drab or brown color.

At Benicia, the hills are soil-covered, and there are few outcrops; but there is an extensive
and favorable natural section of the strata at Navy Point, produced by the Straits of Carquinez
connecting the Bay of San Pablo with Susuin Bay. The current flows nearly at right angles
to the trend of the outcropping beds; and their ends are well exposed along the shore, forming
a bluff of slight elevation. The strata are uplifted, being inclined at an angle of from twenty
to sixty degrees, and dipping towards the southwest. The trend of the outcrops is 75° west of
north, and the strata underlie, or rather form, the hill upon which the government buildings
are erected.

These strata, as here exposed, differ somewhat from the outcrops at San Francisco, Yerba
Buena, and other places described; but there is much reason to consider them as a portion of
the same formation, although they may prove to be much higher in the series. The surface
decomposition appears to have been more complete, or perhaps the strata were never so hard
and firm as those nearer San Francisco.

The great ridge of conglomerate, already described in the notes, forms the prominent feature
of the section exposed at this point. It is the hardest and most unyielding of all the strata,
and its resistance to abrasion and atmospheric influences has determined the form of the hill and
the shape of Navy Point. It forms a prominent object at several points along the surface of the
ground, and is almost the only rock that appears above the soil in that vicinity. The bed 18
about twenty-five feet thick, and is composed of pebbles and gravel, very round, much water-
worn, and chiefly derived from the wear'of volcanic or eruptive rocks. Their colors are gen-
erally dark; and porphyries, agates, and carnelians are abundant. Their average diameter
does not exceed an inch, and many are about the size of beans and peas. They are closely
united by a small portion of finer materials. The strata on both sides of the conglomerate 00%
sist of alternate beds of soft and friable argillaceous shales, with an occasional layer of gravel
and pebbles. Their lithological characters and succession are shown in the following section,
enumerating the strata from west to east, or in the order of superposition from above i
wards. The measurements which are given are merely approximate, having been determin
by the eye, or by pacing in front of the exposed edges in the bluff.

Ue c ea

SECTION OF THE STRATA AT NAVY POINT, BENICIA,

and I consider them, in part, as ef vegetable origin. The thickness of this stratum,

BENICIA SANDSTONE—LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS—FOSSILS. 151

SECTION OF THE STRATA AT NAVY POINT, BENICIA.

1. EN fine-grained and soft, with spherical masses of great hardness inclosed—only about 10

feet ex pose a 10
2. Sands ^ one, harder than No. 1, and highly charged with peroxide of iron 15
3. Sandstone, with layers = er pebbles and coarse grains of quartz. den hard masses also
seen. Ferruginous. ssils and a shark's tooth 20
4. Slaty sandstone in thin red hardened by the presence of a considerable portion of oxide of iron.
Tr . 459 E; N 160 W 6
5. Slaty sandstone, similar to No. 4 15
6. Sandstone, fine- pep soft, Asie bedded 63
7. Sandst d by thin partings of shale, and traversed by thin seams of gyp-
sum, generally in Dual layers. The shales and the beds of soft sandstone are much
stained by oxide of iron 30
8. ی‎ and shales, all soft and decomposing; some of the beds consist of fine-grained white
The general characters are the same as the previous i Thickness of this series, from
Nk 7 to the point of conglomerate, ا‎ to be 600 fee 600
9, h. Conglomerate of gravel and gern forming the end of the po 25
10, g. ws mposed silicious sandstone im by nearly تن‎ seams of gypsum, and divided
the centre by a thin parting سم‎ 30
ih 7 the layers of sand or sand and clay, uu a kind of shale 1 1}
12, e. Decomposed sandstone, containing some hard masses, and traversed by seams of gypsum,
a € 15
13, d. Thin layers, finely -n like No. 11 1}
14, c. Soft decomposed sandsto > 16
15, b. Soft decomposed peru stained by waving lines of peroxide of iron, looking like the grain
of w 6
16, a. A succession of beds of sandstone and thin partings of shale, all more or less discolored by
oxide of iron, and traversed by seams of gysum in nearly hörte lines. Thickness about
150 Reel... 150

These strata are all conformable, and the combined thickness is a little over one
thousand feet. The section commences at the low ground on the western side of
the point near a quarry, and extends along the beach, under the face of the bluff,
to a little cove, where the rocks are no longer exposed. The dip and general
appearance of the strata are shown in the appended section ; an enlarged view of a
portion of the series is presented on the sheet of sections, Chapter XIII. This
portion is that lying east of the conglomerate, and it is indicated in the descrip-
tive section by letters which refer to the plate. It includes a thickness of about
175 feet.

The quarry was opened in the thickly-bedded sandstone, containing hard, rounded
masses, which, when broken open, revealed a bluish nucleus similar in color to
that of the rock at Yerba Buena and other localities near San Francisco. "These
hard masses seemed, at first, like concretions, but they probably originate in the
same manner as the spheriods at Yerba Buena—by deconiposition of angular blocks.
When these nuclei are broken up, they are found to contain small dark-colored
plates and fragments of an earthy character, but apparently the remains of lignites.
In some of them, the carbonaceous material is quite apparent ; and in the softer
and more decayed parts of the rock, I found several specimens in which the organic
structure of plants was well exhibited. The small black films in the sandstones
of the bay of San Francisco, that have already been described, all lie in planes
parallel with the stratification, and are similar to those in the hard masses of this

3
:
Uns
a
=
i
=.
ee
3

152 GEOLOGY.

or series of layers, of compact sandstone, containing the hard nuclei, was not ascertained, and
at this time I find it difficult to assert with certainty whether it forms a part of the series
exposed along the beach. It is recorded as a part of the section in my note-book, but it is pos-
sible that the strata were only seen at the quarry, which is several rods distant from the exposed
strata along the beach. I have, however, little doubt of the continuity of the strata, and that
they are conformable. This is an important point; for the similarity of the lithological charac-
ters of the sandstone to that of San Francisco is, under the circumstances, good evidence of the
synchronism of the strata at the two places. In other respects, the strata, as exposed in the
section, have little resemblance to those around San Francisco. There is no doubt of the presence
of the equivalents of the San Francisco sandstone in the vicinity of Benicia, for a similar rock
is quarried in quantities and sent down to be used in the construction of buildings. Many of
the stones, when dressed and rubbed down, show a central portion of a dark color identical in
its characters with the rock from the quarries of the bay.

The thin seams of gypsum, which occur so abundantly in the strata, are not found in layers
parallel with the beds; they are nearly horizontal or curved downwards, thus showing that
they are the result of infiltration from above. Such is also the origin of the undulating layers
of oxide of iron, which in many of the beds are so numerous and parallel, and at the same time
so much bent and plicated, that it at first seems as if the bed was formed of compressed and
crumpled shales. The uniform width of the stratum, and the parallelism with the adjoining
strata, show, however, that the appearances have not been produced by violence. Fine exam-
ples of the deposition of oxide of iron in layers and curved lines were afterwards seen in the
horizontal strata along Ocoya or Posé creek. E

The fossils which were observed were very few and imperfect; with the exception of a shark’s
tooth, they are mere, broken casts, all the shells being removed, and the forms left in a matrix of
sand and peroxide of iron. As near as can be determined, the genera Trochus and Turritella
are represented. The shark's tooth is well preserved, and, according to Professor Agassiz,
represents a species of Lamna allied to L. elegans, Agass., which is found in the Calcaire
grossier in the environs of Paris, and in the London clay at Sheppy. The description, by Pro-
fessor Agassiz, of the new species, under the name of L. ornata, will be found in Article I of
the Appendix. These fossils are regarded as sufficient to establish the Tertiary age of the
strata from which they were taken. :

It will be seen from the observations recorded in the Itinerary that the strata of Benicia are
prolonged towards the south and southeast, on the opposite side of the straits. A conglomerate
and similar sandstone to that of Benicia was found south of Mount Diablo, at Livermore's Pass.
The strata are believed to have a wide extent in that direction ,and to form the greater part of
the Contra Costa or Central range. "The sandstone and shales of San Francisco have a similar
extension towards the south, and it is probable that the stratified rocks at the New Almaden
cinnabar mine are of the same age. These strata much resemble those of San Francisco, and
are similarly associated with serpentine. A great body of sandstone is found still further gouth,
flanking the San Juan mountains, on the side towards the valley of the Salinas, and I =
inclined to include this in the same group. At the last-mentioned point it shows a great thick-
ness, and crops out in great, massive beds, many feet in thickness. The strata dip away from
the axis of the range at an angle of about forty degrees.

The prolongation of this group of strata is not, however, confined to the southern ranges of
the Coast Mountains. The rocks are found developed in the mountains north of the Golden

EXTENT AND THICKNESS OF THE SAN FRANCISCO SANDSTONE. 153

Gate. . The outcrops of Angel island, State's prison, and Marin island are on the north, and
have already been noticed ; but it is probable that the exposures of the beds are greater in the
interior. The shore of Saucelito bay, on the west of these localities, is formed of sandstone,
similar to that of the other localities in the vicinity, except in color. It is lighter, and more
like specimens which have been obtained from Fort Ross, many miles north, on the shore of
the Pacific. A block of sandstone, brought down from the vicinity of the coal-beds of Belling-
ham bay, closely resembles specimens from the quarries about San Francisco, not only in color,
but in mineral characters ; it is thus rendered probable that the foi mation is the same, although
the evidence presented by mineralogical resemblances can never be regarded as satisfactory.

The wide development of the formation is, however, rendered certain from the evidences pre-
sented in the immediate vicinity of San Francisco. The great thickness which the series
attains—probably over 2,000 or 3,000 feet—and the even grain of the thick beds of sandstone
over large areas, together with the remarkable uniformity of the strata, indicate that they were
formed in a wide-spread ocean or sea. The thick beds of shale attest the depth and comparative
quiescence of the water. Independently of these considerations, the wide extent of the formation
has been made known by observation ; it forms a greater part of the hills and mountains around
the bay, and, so far as explored, a considerable part of the mass of the Coast Mountains. It is
believed to be the most extensive and highly developed sedimentary formation of the California
coast, and may appropriately be known as the San Francisco or California sandstone.

It is greatly to be regretted that, as yet, the evidences of the age of this formation are very
few and unsatisfactory: The rocks near San Francisco, so far as I examined them, are singu-
larly devoid of fossils, not a single shell having been observed in them. Masses of similar
sandstone containing fossils are, however, thrown up by the surf upon the beach south of Point
Lobos, and there is little reason to doubt that they are broken from a submerged outcrop of the
formation. The rock, in color and grain, is very similar to the adjoining sandstone of the’
Point, but it is not quite so hard. It at first appeared possible that these masses were from
Strata formed out of the comminuted debris of the sandstone, and thus more modern or of recent
origin. Iam now, however, of the opinion that they are broken from the solid ledges of the
San Francisco sandstone, under water, and that the fossils may safely be received in evidence of the
age of the formation. The fossils are chiefly Scutelle, and represent the period of the Tertiary.
They are. firmly imbedded in the rock, and lie thickly together, three or more being often found
within the thickness of an inch. It was found to be impossible to cleave these masses of sand-
Stone so as to expose fresh surfaces of the fossils. The rock is calcareous and tough, and the
lime of the Scutellee has so completely erystallized that the fragments cleave into rhombohe-
drons, like calc spar. The fossils appear to have determined the form of the fragments of
rock, for the latter are generally discoid, and faced on each side by the worn surfaces of the
Scutelle. The edges of the fossils also appear on the sides of the specimens, and it is evident
that the lime has been less easily abraded by the surf than the granular sandstone. The struc-
ture of the fossil is very beautifully shown in several of the specimens, and a figure of one of
them is given on Plate IV, fig. 30. I propose for this species the name Scutella interlineata,
and append a description,! prepared for me by Mr. William Stimpson.

i SCUTELLA INTERLINEATA.
The specimens are imperfect, but the ambulacral star is apparently central, the petals equal, and closed, or nearly so,
at their extremities. The tubercles being mostly worn off in the specimens before me, there are two rows of irregularly
pentagonal plates in each inter-ambulacral space, which gradually increase in size toward the margin. A small portion of

the surface upon which tubercles still remain shows these to have been sporadic, very numerous snd en E
lacral petals are transversely lineated with impressed lines across their entire width, the thread-like lines connecting the

20 F

154 GEOLOGY.

These fossils occur in considerable numbers along the beach, and it is probable that a gtratum
of these interesting relics may be found, in place, along the shore further south.

The block of sandstone from Bellingham bay contains two large Pectens of the age of the
Tertiary, and this furnishes additional evidence of the Tertiary age of the San Francisco sand-
stone. The fossils of Benicia—the Trochus, Turritella, and shark’s tooth, Lamna ornata—
point to the same conclusion, the only doubt being as to the connexion of the strata. The
fossiliferous stratum may be much higher in the series than the rocks about San Francisco. It
is not impossible that a portion of the Upper Cretaceous is represented, although there is noth-
ing to indicate it in the lithological characters of the strata. The occurrence of Cretaceous
strata in the northern part of the State! renders this more probable.?

The formation throughout its extent, so far as explored, has been uplifted and thrown into
wave-like flexures. A body of the strata in a horizontal position is not known. The dips are
generally at angles of from twenty to sixty degrees, and in such directions as to indicate the
existence of a series of anticlinals and synclinals. The trends of the strata conform so nearly
with the direction of all the principal ridges and headlands as to show that the flexures of the
rocks have determined the relief of the region. This direction is nearly northwest and south-
east, and is clearly shown on the maps of the Bay by the parallel lines of coast. The promon-
tory extending northwest from Angel Island finds its continuation in this island, and beyond it,
in the island of Yerba Buena, indicating the presence of a long anticlinal axis. This is
rendered more probable by the dip of the strata at the island, and the apparently reverse dip of
the beds on the opposite shore at San Francisco. It is probable that the channel between the
city and Yerba Buena occupies a synclinal depression. It was not possible to follow out the
flexures of the strata from North Point westward to the serpentine ridge of Fort Point, but the
dips that were exposed were sufficient to warrant the conclusion that the strata were much flexed
and folded between the two places, and indicated that the two principal hills of the city were
formed by the summits of flexures. The folded condition of the strata is represented in the
little section on page 155, drawn to show the relations of the rocks between the city and the shore
of the Pacific. "The curved lines show the probable bending of the great mass of the'strata.

Indications of an anticlinal fold of the strata were apparent at Benicia. The strata exposed
on the opposite shore of the little bay, or cove, which terminated the section on the east,

‘appeared to dip in a direction opposite to the others. Such foldings were, quus more dis-
tinct further south, in the hills west of Mount Diablo.
of the two inner rows, as well as those of the inner and outer ones. The position of the anus could not be made out;

it is probably infra-marginal. The ambulacral furrows of the inferior surface are apparently but little ramified.

Diameter of the largest specimen 474 inches; height at the middle 0.48 inch. This specimen was presented to me by
Dr. C. F. Winslow, formerly of San Francisco

1 Discovered and announced by Dr. J. B. Trask.

3 A short paper on the un characters and probable age of the San Francisco sandstone was read by the T

with the permission of the War Department, at the meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Scienc
Providence, 1856. See سب زار‎ 9th meeting.

TECH ET TEEN

METAMORPHIC STRATA—PRASOID ROCKS 155

| The most distinct contortions and highly-inclined positions are, however, shown by a class

euang q1 A

Bay of San Francisco.

“ITH 17

"IHH uerssng

"ompisa1q

*iutog yoy

és

IAEA

"Soqo'T 3uroq

۰۷۲900 9yroeq

a

a, a, a, San Francisco sandstone ; b, Metamorphosed sandstone ; s, Serpentine of Fort Point.

of rocks which have not yet been mentioned. They are, to all appearance, a metamorphosed or

changed portion of the sandstone formation. They are found outcrop-
ping near the Presidio, south of the Mission, and form the highest ele-
vations of the north shore of the Golden Gate. Lime Point is entirely
formed of these rocks, and it is probable that they compose nearly the
whole peninsula from Point Cavallos to Point Bonita. At Lime Point they
exhibit regular stratification, with the planes nearly vertical, or inclining
westward. Portions of the strata are very finely stratified, the layers being
not over half an inch thick, and yet they are well defined and apparently
very hard. The whole series is enormously thick, and the principal beds
are seen to form the crests or culminating points of the principal ridges,
and to outcrop in long lines on the surface. Several of the small islands,
or large rocks under Lime Point, consist entirely of these metamorphic
sediments, and rise above the waves with nearly vertical sides, like
steeples. In these islets, and on Lime Point, there are beautiful flexures
and folds of the strata, some of them of considerable extent, and others
are local, showing many bends and short angles within the space of a
square yard, resembling the compressed and crumpled leaves of a book
in the number of the thin layers, and their conformity through all the
bends. One of the most interesting displays of these plications is found
in the sides of Needle rock, a high column rising from the waves near the
base of the Point.

The lithological characters of these strata are very interesting. They
are hard, flint-like, and jaspery, and occur of various colors. The most
common color is a'dark reddish-brown, or a chocolate color, but this is
often intermixed with yellow and green. Indeed, some of the fragments
are beautifully spotted and banded with different colors, and form good
specimens of ribbon-jasper, or prase. Quartz, in thin irregular veins, is

a common accompaniment of the rock, and traverses it in all directions |

without any regularity in the trends of the fissures. It appears, in many
cases, to form a complete coating around fragments of the rock, so às to
isolate them from the adjoining portions. The flat surface of one of the
specimens, when viewed at a short distance, appears as if covered by a
tangled mass of white cord. It is probable that these flinty strata are
similar to those seen by Professor Dana, and described in his report as
prasoid rocks.!

Similar rocks are found along the road south of San Francisco towards
San José, and at New Almaden. At the latter place the color is much
lighter, and the crooked quartz veins are absent. They are, however,
very hard, and show the original alternation of shales and sandstone.

1 Report on the Geology of the United States Exploring Expedition under the command of
Lieutenant Charles Wilkes,U. S. N.

156 GEOLOGY.

In the bank, just behind the smelting works of the quicksilver mine, a slight exposure of the
strata shows a very interesting flexure of the beds:

FLEXURE OF A NEW ALMADEN.

Although the direct transition from the unaltered sandstone and shale to these metamorphic
strata has not been observed, there is little doubt they are of the same formation, and that the
jaspery condition is due to igneous agencies. The chemical composition of the sandstone and the
shales is favorable to such a result. It is regretted that analyses of each, and of the metamor-
phosed portions cannot be presented.

ERUPTED ROCKS—SERPENTINE.

The extensive metamorphism, and the uplifted condition of all the strata, indicate the proximity
of igneous rocks. They are not exposed, however, in the vicinity of San Francisco to an extent
that the effects which have been produced would lead us to expect. The nearest exposure of
the granitic rocks, which is known, is at the Farallones islands, twenty miles out at sea, off the
entrance to the Golden Gate, and at Punta de los Reyes, about the same distance up the coats
Granite may, however, occur in the mountains, south of the city, at a nearer point, but this 18
very doubtful. It may also be found at Point Bonita. It probably forms the principal ridge
west of New Almaden, and there is reason to believe that the sandstones and shales and the
metamorphosed rocks rest against it. Granite is found in close proximity with the thick strata
at San Juan, but the relations of the rocks could not be readily determined. Trappean intru-
sions and serpentine occur at New Almaden.

The metamorphosed strata of Lime Point appear to be underlaid on their eastern margin by
a dyke, or intrusion of a hard, compact trappean rock, which does not rise far above the tide-
level; its presence might, therefore, be easily overlooked. The line of junction between the
two formations is also indistinct, but may be traced around the base of the cliff, at a uniform
elevation above the water, for a long distance. The position of this rock is indicated upon the
map. Itappears to have resisted the action of the surf and currents of the channel 0 vell,
that the degradation and undermining of the cliff has nearly ceased, it having continued until
the softer metamorphic strata were left secure beyond the reach of the waves. The proximity

SERPENTINE OF FORT POINT, ITS LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS. 157

and direct contact of this rock of igneous origiu, with a portion of the jaspery strata, indicate
that it has caused their metamorphosis. It is, however, difficult to conceive that such extended
effects were produced by this rock, which has such a limited exposure at the surface, unless we
conclude that it has a broad subterranean extension.

The formation next in importance to the sandstone, in point of extent and development in the
vicinity of San Francisco, is the serpentine, or serpentinoid rock, of Fort Point. It forms a
high and prominent ridge about midway between the shore of the Pacific and the Bay of San
Francisco, and extends in a northwest and southeast direction, abutting upon the Golden Gate
and forming Fort Point. The width of the ridge is between one and two miles, but its extension
southward is not accurately known. It is partly obscured in that direction by sand, but forms
a knob at the Orphan Asylum, near the Mission. It is bounded on both sides by the San Fran-
cisco sandstone, and its end, at the Golden Gate, forms a bold bluff facing the Pacific. Fort
Point is its extreme northern point, and formerly presented a high bluff with a flat table-like
summit, upon which the Mexican fort was built.! This has recontly been cut away to prepare
for the erection of new fortifications. This cutting down of such a large mass of the rock
exposed a broad surface of the interior, and permits its structure to be conveniently studied.
The rock, in its appearance, is unlike the serpentine of Hoboken, New Jersey, and Staten Island,
New York; nor is it like the serpentine of Milford and New Haven, Connecticut; being of a
darker color, harder, and filled with distinct crystals of diallage, from one-eighth to one-quarter
and half an inch in length. These present brilliant cleavage surfaces when a mass of the rock
is broken up. The fracture of some of the dark portions of the rock is sub-conchoidal, the
resulting surfaces being smooth, and, in this respect, differing from the serpentines mentioned.
Another, and a prominent peculiarity of the rock is its globular character, it being made up of
nearly spherical, boulder-like masses, included in a shaly or slaty portion that readily splits up
and falls into fragments on exposure to the air. These slaty portions present the common
smoothed or furrowed appearance sccetimes seen on the surfaces of both igneous and sedimen-
tary rocks where they have been rubbed together, under great pressure, as in the walls of mineral
veins. It fills all the space between the masses, and gives them the appearance of having been
coated with a soft plastic cement. The color of these globular masses is dark olive-green; they
are very hard and compact, and not only contain the crystals of diallage, but in some instances
are traversed in every direction by thin veins of amianthus or chrysotile, with the fibres trans-
verse to the walls. These seams are generally very thin, and, by intersecting, divide the rock
into masses not larger than a nut, causing it to exhibit a curious reticulated appearance where
the surface is weathered. A similar character was observed in the serpentine at New Almaden.

At the Orphan Asylum, the compact portions of the rock, which break with a conchoidal
fracture, are also traversed by thin seams or bands of a green mineral, non-crystalline, and
about as hard as serpentine. It is delicately shaded in lines parallel with the walls, looking
somewhat like a narrow green ribbon, of light color. With the exception of some small nodules,
of a white powder, probably arragonite, these were the only mincrals observed in connexion
with this rock. The slaty portions were light-green in color, and had a greasy feel, like talc,
rendering the surface of the rocks at Fort Point very slippery and difficult to climb.

The hard and dark-colored portions of the rock were used in the construction of the Orphan

۱ According to the notes of Lieutenant Belcher, serpentine is found on the north shore of the Golden Gate, between Point
Bonita and Point Diavolo. —Zoology, &c., of Captain Beechey's Voyage.

Se Eee i Qu UTI EN A he

ARTE

158 GEOLOGY.

Asylum ; but there is nothing to recommend it as a building stone, except, in this instance, its
presence upon the spot. It is not well calculated to resist the action of the weather.

It is very probable that the higher portions of Mount Diablo are formed of a similar serpen-
tine. A large quantity of rock was once quarried there and taken away, under the suppo-
sition that it contained gold. A fragment of this was obtained; it proves to be a mass of
diallage or bronzite in rough crystals, with the usual metalloidal lustre. It closely resembles
the bronzite of Bacher Mount, Styria, which occurs with serpentine.

The ridge of compact serpentinoid rock at Fort Point appears to be eruptive, and to be more
recent than the sandstone of the bay of San Francisco. It appeaıs probable, also, that the strata
of sandstone and shale were much uplifted or disturbed by its intrusion, although the great flexures
of the strata, and perhaps the principal metamorphoses, were, in all probability, attendant upon
the formation of a granitic axis of considerable extent, but which, in the vicinity of San Fran-
cisco and the Golden Gate, is submerged in the waters of the Pacific. That the strata were
disturbed by the serpentine, is indicated by the relative positions of the rocks, as seen in the
exposures along the shore of the Golden Gate from San Francisco to Point Lobos. These
positions are shown on the little section, page 155, which is intended to represent the succession
of the formations along the line A, B, upon the map, and the probable flexures of the strata.
The sandstone is found upon both sides of the serpentine, ard appears to rest upon it on the
east, and to underlie it on the west. An outcrop of metamorphosed rock is found near the line
of junction on the east side, but on the shore near the beach it is not visible. At this point,
however, we find a body of sandstone strata, intercalated or imbedded in the serjentine, as
represented in the annexed figure.

SANDSTONE AND SHALES IMBEDDED IN SERPENTINE.

fei pem RN RTL.

Serpentine. Sandstone. Serpentine..

_ This mass of strata is between two and three hundred feet thick ; the beds dip eastward at

an angle of about 75°. The series consists principally of slates and shales, but there are several
beds of compact sandstone from two to six feet thick. The relative position of the strata and
the serpentine indicates that at the time of its inruption it probably followed the planes of
stratification for the greater part of its course. These beds of sandstone and shale are much
harder and more compact than the strata of the same formation at a distance from the intrusive
rock ; but the color and mineral characters are well preserved, and they do not show any signs
of change from igneous action.

The line of contact of the serpentine with the outlying beds of sandstone on the west side of
the point was not seen, but the character of the surface on that side indicates that the strata dip
under the serpentine. The valley through which the little brook, leading from the lake, flows
is coincident with the line of junction between the two formations.

Serpentine is found to outcrop, in connexion with sandstone strata, similar to those of San
Francisco, in the hills between the southern end of Tomales Bay and the Mission of San Rafael.
It is also reported to be an abundant rock throughout the Coast Mountains. Wherever it came
under my observation it presented the aspect of an intrusive rock, and I have so regarded ib.
There is little doubt that the outcrops have undergone great changes, even to a great depth, by
the action of percolating water and the atmosphere.

PEAT-SWAMPS ON THE SHORES OF THE BAY AND GOLDEN GATE. 159

ALLUVIAL AND DRIFT DEPOSITS.

Around the shores of the Mission Bay, and near the road leading from the city to the Mission,
there are extensive flats of swampy land of alluvial origin. The surface consists of a very thick
turf, which, when cut out and dried in the sun, is suitable for fuel. "This is underlaid by thick
strata of clay, which have been penetrated to the depth of 50 feet or more in several places by
boring for Artesian wells. This clay has a dark bluish black color, is very fine, and when first
removed exhales a putrescent odor, probably due to the decomposition of leaves and vegetation,
which are sometimes found in the borings. Between Fort Point and Point San José there is a
narrow, swampy tract, but little elevated above tidewater, which appears to be like that near the
Mission, having also a thick layer of turf. This tract is separated from the water of the channel
by a narrow dyke, or beach, formed of sand and rounded stones. This has evidently been thrown
up by the waves, and piled upon the alluvium. This can be easily seen at low tide, for on the
outer side of the sand-beach, and just below the surface of the water at low tide, there is a shore
of turf, and an abrupt descent from its margin to deep water. Large masses of the turf are

dislodged and thrown up by the waves upon the overlying sand. It is not easy to account for -
the formation of this peat swamp, which certainly appears to have been much more extensive,

and to have required a permanent barrier on its seaward side, as ome of the conditions of its
formation. A great change in the position of the sea relatively to the land has undoubtedly
taken place, for the present action of the sea is directly adverse to the deposition of alluvium, or
the formation of a marsh. It is encroaching rapidly upon the margin of this deposit of fine
alluvial clay, and it is evident that a formerly existing barrier to the action of the sea has been
broken away. What the nature of this barrier was it is difficult to decide. It may not have
been a wall-like barrier, like a bar or reef, but the water may have been shoal, and free from
swift currents, so that a gently sloping beach of mud, or mud-flats, were formed.

The point of serpentine rock (Fort Point) projects out into the channel, and acts as a natural

breakwater to the shore immediately east of it, thus preventing the entire destruction of the

alluvial tract. This point is fully exposed to the heavy surf of the Pacific and the violent cur-
rents of the channel. It has been much broken down and abraded under these continued
influences, 'consequently the channel has become widened, and the currents have acted with
more and more force upon the adjoining shores. "The powerful action of the currents and surf
are well exhibited to the leeward of the point, where wrecks of vessels lie partly buried in accu-
mulations of sand, pebbles, and even large rocks. The long government wharf, which has been
constructed in the cove east of the point, consists of large cribs, filled with rock, placed at inter-
vals, so that the currents could flow between them. These cribs have so modified the action of
the currents flowing inland that an immense deposit of sand and boulders is in process of
formation on the lee side. The cribs that were constructed beyond the beach, and that were
formerly surrounded with water, are now half imbedded in sand. It is probable, therefore,
that when the channel was much narrower than now, a sea-wall or beach was formed, leaving a
lagoon on the inner side, which became gradually filled up by the wash from the hills. The
gradual widening of the channel permitted the sea to encroach and wear down the wall of sand
and shingle, throwing a portion of it further inland, until at length it was completely underlaid
by the alluvium.

À wide margin of recent or alluvial deposits is found on the shores of the bay opposite to San
Francisco. It is most extensive at the mouth of San Antonio Creek. Further south, at the

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160 GEOLOGY.

lower end of the bay, there are broad, alluvial meadows, or marshes, and an extensive tract is
left bare by the tides. The extension of this alluvian inland, at a higher level, forms the broad
and fertile plains of San Jose. These deposits are bordered by the more dry and sloping plains
of coarser soil, formed by the debris and wash from the hills.

On the hills about San Francisco there is a slight formation of drift, either alluvial or com-
posed only of the wash from the hills. It does not show upon the surface in the form of either
transported boulders or gravel, but is limited in extent, and occupies the lower parts of the
principal depressions. In excavating a tunnel from the small lake on the west slope of the ser-
pentine ridge, a portion of this formation was cut through, and at its junction with the serpen-
tine rock, about 80 feet below the surface, fragments of wood were taken out. They were im-
bedded in black clay, like sea mud, and were much compressed and flattened out, and partially
converted to lignite. Bones were also found in this clay, 18 feet below the surface. One of
them appeared to be the ribof an animal not larger than a deer. A fragment of a large bone
was also taken from an excavation at the foot of Telegraph Hill. It is about eight inches long
and four in diameter, and is nearly triangular in its cross-section.! ;

In boring through the earth outside of the old water-line of the city, at the site of the new
custom-house, in order to ascertain the nature of the foundation, several beds of sand, clay, and
gravel were found to succeed in regular order for a depth of 60 or 80 feet. This locality is at,
or below, tide level, and we thus find that the sandstone strata in the channel are overlaid by
drift or detrital deposits of considerable depth. It is between these accumulations of drift, or
alluvium, and the rocks, that sheets of water or water-bearing strata are found, and are reached
by Artesian borings in various parts of the city.

The sandstone and shales of the hills upon which the city is built are overlaid in many places
by a covering of soil, which appears to have been derived from the decomposition of the strata.
This soil is found to be a good material for making bricks, and it is extensively used in that
manufacture. This fact shows that the rock contains a large per centage of alumina, and the
presence of oxide of iron is not only shown by the rusted color of the weathered rock, but by
the deep red color of the burned bricks. Wherever this soil has been cultivated it has been
found to yield good returns. ，

SAND-DUNES.

On the Pacific side of the San Francisco peninsula there is an extensive sand-beach, reaching
for several miles north and south, and a long distance inland. A wide area is thus covered by
loose, dry, sea sand, and it has the aspect and character of a desert. This sand is moved about
by the wind and is constantly progressing inland, being thrown into wave-like hills, which
move forward and bury shrubs and trees that lie in their path. The extensive formation of
blown sand within the city limits has undoubtedly been accumulated by the action of he 有
winds upon the sand of the beach, it having been transported from one side of the peninsula to
the other.

The sand-hills formerly occupied a wide area in Happy Valley, rising in constant succession,
one beyond the other, to various heights, from 20 to 60 feet or more, rendering the region
almost impassable for vehicles. Most of these hills are now levelled, and houses have taken
their place. Remnants of them may, however, be found along the newly opened streets, where
favorable opportunities are presented for the examination of their internal structure. any

* These bones are in the possesion of Dr. C. F. Winslow, formerly of San Francisco.

SAND-HILLS, AND THEIR ORIGIN—ARTESIAN WELLS. 161

interesting exposures of the same character are visible in other parts of the city; and in all the 3
localities, the sections present well-defined lines of stratification, not horizontal, but inclined in
various directions, corresponding with the direction of the wind at the time of the deposition of
the sand. These lines are very numerous and fine, and appear to be formed partly by thin
layers of black iron-sand, which, being heavier than the rest, is not so readily moved ; it is
frequently seen forming the outer layer of a bank that has been swept by the wind. Blown
sand is also found in long drifts and dunes on Point San José. It is in a state of constant pro-
gression, passing over the point, under the influence of the wind, and falling into the water on
the opposite side. Some large drifts are found at that place, and the grains of sand are
unusually coarse. The surface of one of these drifts, when the wind is blowing hard, presents
& curious appearance ; the sand sweeps along in a constant stream, which does not rise more than
one or two feet from the surface, and when the light strikes upon it, it produces a peculiar
halo, enveloping the drift. The same peculiar ripple-marks that are so well shown in the beds
of streams and on the sand-hills of the Desert, are developed here in the most beautiful manner ;
they are seen on the broad, rounded surfaces of the hills in all directions.
Most of the hills in the city and its vicinity, where they were partly sheltered from the wind,
are, or were, covered with a thick growth of dwarf trees and shrubs, (chamisal,) which prevented
the wind from acting upon their surfaces and removing the sand.
It is impossible to determine, with any accuracy, the ages that must have elapsed since this
sand began to accumulate in Happy Valley. The progress of such hills is not uniform and
constant, for, under certain circumstances, they remain stationary for long periods. Whenever
the vegetation is removed, or a cutting is made, and the wind is allowed to act upon the sur- :
face, or to strike a hill in a new direction, the motion of the sand is rapid, and a large hill is 5
۱ soon carried away and piled up in a protected place, where the sand remains, secure from further 1
۱ violent action.
The Pacific coast presents many favorable opportunities for studying the phenomena of drifting
sand and the formation of dunes. Perhaps no point is more favorable than that partly described— _
the sand-beach and dunes of the San Francisco peninsula. The sand of the beach is constantly
acted on by the wind, and is thrown into hillocks of various forms and magnitude. The
Observer may, in an hour's time from the city of San Francisco, place himself in the midst of
this desert-like expanse, and, having viewed the production of sand-hills and drifts, he may, as
he returns, study their internal structure and curvilinear stratification in the numerous sections *
of the hills along the streets.

E 15 m doceo Cad M Kc e E vga opc f

ARTESIAN WELLS.

Artesian borings for water in the city of San Francisco have become so numerous within three
years, that it is almost impossible to ascertain their number and localities. Water appears to
be found in all parts of the city around the hills, and generally at a depth of not more than one
hundred and fifty feet; but the depth to which the borings extend varies with the locality. In -
Happy Valley, and towards the Mission, the borings are generally successful at a depth of fifty
to seventy-five feet, the water rising to the surface. In that part of the city north of California
street, the depth of the wells increases ; one at the corner of California and Montgomery streets
being eighty-five feet deep, and at Montgomery block one hundred and sixty feet. Another,

' between Clay and Merchant streets, is one hundred and forty-two feet. The depth to which
21F

162 GEOLOGY.

the borings are carried, increases from the base of the hills towards the bay, and many of the
wells are bored down through the salt water of the bay.

None of these Artesian borings have been carried downwards into the sandstone strata; they
only pierce the superficial drift or alluvium. Several veins or strata of water are generally
found ; and when the borings first commenced, an overflow was generally obtained.

The formations that are successively passed in boring, are sands and clays, and the water is
found to rise from the sandy strata alone. "Towards the Mission, a very heavy and thick forma-
tion of blue clay is met with, containing roots and leaves partly decomposed, and giving off a
disagreeable odor. This clay is over fifty feet thick, and water is found below it. The configu-
ration of the underlying strata of sandstone and shale is highly favorable to the success of
Artesian borings in the overlying drift or detrital accumulations. It is possible that water
could also be obtained from the slaty layers between the compact sandstone strata; but the
drilling of the rock would be attended with great expense, and it is questionable whether the
formation is not so compact and dense as to prevent rapid infiltration, or a subterranean flow of
water.

Some of the wells in the city are eighteen inches in diameter, aud cased with cast-iron pipes ;
others have a simple and temporary lining of sheet-iron like a stove-pipe. The cost of the
wells, complete, with the ordinary lining, is about four dollars per foot. !

At the villages of Santa Clara and San José, Artesian borings have been entirely successful.
At San José, during the past winter, (1853,) the earth was bored to a depth of seventy-eight
feet, through the fine alluvial clay of that valley. At that depth, the auger suddenly dropped
into a stratum of water and sand, and, on being withdrawn, the water followed it to the sur-
face and overflowed freely. The column has since been raised several feet by the addition of
pipes, and an elevation sufficient to irrigate the surrounding lands is attained. No diminu-
tion in the volume of water discharged has yet been observed ; but several other wells are about
being sunk, which will perhaps reduce the quantity.

Several other wells have been constructed with satisfactory results. One of the borings ws
remarkably successful; at the depth of about seventy-five feet, a rush of water to the surface
took place, and has continued to overflow without diminution. Such is the pressure and force
with which this water rises, that it has been found difficult to control it and prevent it from
overflowing the adjoining grounds. Another is reported to have been sunk to the depth of two
hundred and twenty-five feet, and to yield seventy-five gallons a minute. The drainage ere
the different wells forms a brook large enough to drive a saw-mill. The success attending the
Artesian borings in that alluvial valley is so general, and the advantages obtained are 0 great,
that they are becoming very numerous. The Artesian wells can also be constructed at an
expense that of ordinary wells.

^ i two
*I am indebted for many of these facts to Mr. Hopkins, who has been engaged in boring wells in San Francisco "
years past. (February, 1854.)

1

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BETS eon Re SRT SRE ee Me™ ed eae Oe

CHAPTER XIII
TERTIARY FORMATIONS OF OCOYA CREEK, MONTEREY, AND OTHER
LOCALITIE

EOCENE FORMATIONS AT THE HEAD OF THE TULARE VALLEY.—EOCENE FOSSILS—OCOYA CREEK TERTIARY.—EXTENT OF THE FORMATION.—

SOFT CLAY-HILLS.—ABSENCE OF VEGETATION.—STEEP SLOPES.—LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS.—PUMICE-STONE AND VOLCANIC ASHES.—
SECTION OF THE STRATA.—ÜHARCOAL.—DEPOSITION OF OXIDE OF IRON BY INFILTRATION.—FORMATION OF GYPSUM.—RESEMBLANCE OF
THE LINES OF OXIDE OF IRON TO THOSE PRODUCED IN STRATA BY PRESSURE.—FossiLs.—SHELLS.—SHARK’S TEETH—MASTODON.—SILICI-
FIED WOOD.—EVIDENCES OF SHALLOW WATER AND CURRENTS AT THE TIME OF THE DEPOSITION OF THE FOSSILS.—RESEMBLANCE TO A

RADO ANO GILA.—MIOCENE FOSSILS.—TERTIARY OF SAN DIEGO. ubiera Pos Führer OF THE BERNARDINO SIERRA AND
SAN FERNANDO.—STRATA OF LOS ANGELES AND SAN PEDRO.—FOSSILS.—TERTIARY AT MONTEREY.—LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS.—INFU-
SORIAL BEDS.—FOSSIL SHELLS.—FORAMINIFERA.—TERTIARY OF THE SOUTHERN END OF THE GREAT BASIN.—SILICIFIED STEMS.— POST
PLIOCENE DEPOSITS OF MONTEREY, SAN PEDRO, AND SAN DIEGO.—RECENT ELEVATION OF THE COAST.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE
TERTIARY FORMATIONS. Mıookie AT THE BASE OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.—ÜOMPARISONS,

EOCENE OF THE SOUTHERN END OF THE TULARE VALLEY.

The mountains at the southern end of the Tulare valley have a central axis of granitic
and metamorphic rocks, which form the high ridges and peaks; but the lower ridges on the
north side consist of thick strata of sandstone and conglomerate, upraised at various angles,
but generally dipping away from the granite or towards the valley. The strata appear to form
a succession of escarpments facing the granite, as shown in the annexed section.

IDEAL SECTION AT THE HEAD OF THE TULARE VALLEY.

All the dips which were observed were towards the north ; there was, however, but little
opportunity for a general exploration, and reverse dips may be found at other points than those
visited. A sketch of one of the exposures near the pass of San Amédio is given in the Itinerary,
page 45, and shows the general appearance of the strata where they are cut through by a valley
across their trend. The strata, at the point’ represented in the sketch, were ‘very regular, and
chiefly argillaceous sandstone, with coarser materials at the bottom; a thick stratum of con-
glomerate being exposed in an adjoining outcrop. The thickness of the series of beds exposed
at this point is probably not less than 2,000 feet.

No fossils were visible at that place ; but several sita east, at the entrance to the Cañada de
las Uvas, a boulder of sandstone full of fossils was dicovered among the drift, which had ap-
parently been brought out of the Cañada by floods along the bed of the brook. This boulder
was of a compact sandstone, of a brownish-gray color, and so filled with shells that it could

164 GEOLOGY.

scarcely be broken without fracturing one or more of them. The shells were perfectly pre-
served, and when broken out, looked almost as fresh as if recently taken from the water. They
were neither stained nor softened.

According to Mr. T. A. Conrad, the period of the Eocene is unequivocally represented by
these fossils. He describes fifteen species: Cardium linteum, Dosinia alta, Meretrix Uvasana, 3
M, Californiana, Crassatella Uvasana, C. alta, Mytilus humerus, Cardita planicosta, Deshayes,
Natica ctites, N. gibbosa, Lea, N. alveata, Turritella Uvasana, Volutatithes Californiana, Busy-
con? Blakei, and Clavatula Californica. Eleven of these are regarded as new, and they are all
described in Mr. Conrad’s report, Appendix, Article lI. Figures are also given on Plate II.
It is an interesting fact that three of the species are indentical with well-known forms of the
Atlantic slope. Mr. Conrad’s observations on these fossils are exceedingly interesting, and for
convenience are repeated here. ‘‘ The Eocene period is unequivocally represented by the beau-
tifully perfect shells from the Canada de las Uvas, which, though not found in situ, are evi-
dently derived from strata occurring on the Pacific slope of the Sierra Nevada. This is very
remarkable, inasmuch as three species correspond with forms of Claiborne, Alabama, and seem
to indicate a connexion of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans during the Eocene period. The vast
distance between the two localities will account for the general distinction of species, and it was
indeed an unexpected result to find any identical. If I had imagined any eastern species to
oceur in California, it would have been the very one which does occur, and apparently in abund- . t
ance—that *finger-post' of the Eocene, Cardita planicosta—a fossil of the Paris basin, and also ۱
abundant in Maryland, Virginia, and Alabama. This species originated and perished in the
Eocene period, and is so widely distributed that it may be regarded as the most characteristic
fossil of its era." We thus find an identity of fossil species in nearly the same latitude, but
separated by a distance of over 2,000 miles, and on the opposite sides of lofty mountain chains.

Although these fossils were not taken from the sandstone strata which have been described,
there is little doubt that they were broken from a prolongation of the same series. Their source
could not be found in the Canada de las Uvas near the line of exploration, and it was probably
further west, along some of the side ravines.

It is very desirable that further explorations should be conducted in that region, and the
locality of these beautiful fossils ascertained if possible. It will doubtless prove exceedingly
rich in interesting species, and, judging from the per-centage of new species among those pro-
cured from one block hardly a cubic foot in size, we Ded expect valuable additions to fossil
conchology to result from its examination.

Several specimens of a compact sandstone were brought to me by one of the party from the
vicinity of the pass of San Amédio. They contain fossils of the genera Cytherea and Tellina.

.

OCOYA CREEK—MIOCENE.

The most extensive Miocene deposits examined during the course of the survey were at the 1
base of the Sierra Nevada, around the Depot Camp, at Ocoya or Posé creek. In travelling E
southward towards the Tejon, smooth, rounded hills were encountered soon after leaving Moore's
creek, and became more elevated and numerous beyond White creek. The formation, however,
which appears to be well represented by the fossils of Ocoya creek, extends in a continuous belt
along the base of the Sierra Nevada, from White creek to Ocoya creek, and beyond it for many
miles to the southward, forming high banks on both sides of Posuncula or Kern river, and even
extending in a narrow strip to the Tejon. This belt of horizontal strata is lenticular in form»

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TERTIARY FORMATION AT OCOYA CREEK—ROUNDED HILLS. 165

its longer axis being parallel with the mountains, and its greatest width being about ten miles,
South of Posuncula river, the formation disappears, or loses the distinct character it possesses
along Ocoya creek. It is probable, however, that the same sexies of deposits exist, but they are
at a lower level, and are partially overlaid by the recent alluvial wash from the hills and
granite ridges, and in the valley, by the alluvial deposits, partly of lacustrine origin. It has
already been shown in the Itinerary that horizontal strata are found at many points along the
base of the mountains north of the boundaries which have been given. They are found along
the course of nearly all the rivers that flow into the San Joaquin. "Whether these are properly
but a continuation of the formation about to be described, is not yet determined.

The position of Ocoya creek will be readily seen by inspection of the map ; it takes its rise in
the Sierra Nevada, and flows westward, nearly parallel with Posuncula river, towards the
southern part of the Tulare valley. After emerging from the granite ridges of the Sierra, the
stream flows directly across the belt of sedimentary formations, and forms a very good natural
section of the beds. The thickness or elevation of tke series also appears to be greatest along
the course of the creek; consequently it was one of the best localities for the exploration of the
deposits.

Our approach to Ocoya creek was over the tops of the bordering hills, and the view presented
from them was very peculiar and interesting. The eye could wander in all directions over a
vast area of rolling hills in a continued series, one behind another, and differing but slightly in
their elevation. The outlines were all in unbroken curves, the surfaces were rounded and
smooth, and without one projecting rock or angle.

The entire absence of vegetation (there being neither trees nor shrubs) was also a striking
peculiarity, and permitted all the outlines and modifications of the surface to be distinctly seen.
The color of all these hills was one uniform c" or clay color, and it was so distinct that they
immediately received the title of ‘‘ clay hills.’

Under the glare of a strong sunlight the surface presents a peculiar velvet luster, very
striking and distinct. This may have been due to the dried stalks of the grasses and weeds that
are found standing thickly together over some of the hills. These remains of annual plants
show that these hills are probably covered with grass during the rainy season, and present a
beautiful green surface. The stalks of the wild oat, that grows so luxuriantly on the hills of
the Coast Mountains, were not observed here in any quantity.

The distinctness with which the ravines and water-courses on the sides of these clay hills was
presented was remarkable, and afforded a good opportunity to study the action of drainage
water upon such materials. Every ravine or deep gully at the base of the highest hills
could be traced upwards by the eye to its various diverging channels; these expanded into a
thousand distinct branches, extending to the very summits of the hills, and resembling the out-
spreading branches of a tree. The whole surface of the country was seen to be cut and divided
in this manner by the main ravines, and their direction could be readily traced. It was very
evident that all these hills were only remnants of a formerly continuous plain or gently sloping
plateau, the surface of which was at a level with, or higher than, the tops of the hills now re-
maining. All the valleys and ravines that now traverse the formation are evidently the result
of the excavating and transporting power of water. It may, at first, be difficult for the ordinary
observer to comprehend how such extensive wearing away and the removal of such enormous
quantities of earth has been accomplished by the simple action of drainage water. Effects of
much greater magnitude are, however, visible in all parts of the world upon rocks and forma-

166 GEOLOGY.

tions of much more enduring and resisting materials. In fact, we must refer the detailed
topography of all countries to the action of water upon the frame-work of rocks that has been
prepared and elevated by subterganean forces. It is only when the results are presented in a
form that can be readily comprehended that they become astounding.

The materials of which this formation is composed are exceedingly light and yielding, and
they are not protected by any consolidated layers of great extent. The hills, also, being devoid
of trees and vegetation, are not covered by a soil or sod bound together by roots; the surface
water has, therefore, free action upon the earth, and the course of its drainage is not obstructed.
Under these conditions, every shower that pours down there in the winter season acts rapidly
upon the soft materials, and every rivulet, stream, and torrent, in its course towards the rivers,
becomes turbid with immense quantities of clay held in suspension. It is by this continually
repeated action of the water that the deep valleys of the Ocoya and Posuncula rivers, and their
thousand tributary ravines, each with its multiplied diverging channels, have been excavated
from what was formerly an elevated and unbroken plateau. The quantity of earth that has
been removed in this manner is enormous, and may be regarded as nearly equal to the amount
that still remains in the hills. All this removed material has been transported down into the
Tulare valley, from which a portion may have again been carried into the San Joaquin. When
we consider the extent of the erosion of these valleys, we can readily conceive that the alluvial
deposits of the Tulares have a very great thickness. They are very broad, and cover a much
greater area than is now occupied by the lakes.

Some of the highest hills of this formation are found along the banks of Ocoya creek, where
the best natural sections that were found occur. They are near the spot marked as Depot camp
on the general map. The hills in this vicinity rise about eight hundred feet above the bed of
the stream ; and the lines of horizontal stratification are traceable from one hill to another across
deep ravines. `

The great inclination of the slopes of these hills is worthy of mention ; many of those near
our camp were so steep that it was impossible to ascend them without winding around their bases
in some of the side ravines. The perfectly even surface that they present, entirely bare of rocks
or vegetation of any size, renders the ascent of the steep slopes impossible. I measured the
slopes of several hills with the clinometer, and found them to vary from 30° to 38^ و‎ at other
points the inclination amounts to 45°. The general aspect of the hills along the side valleys is
shown in View X, accompanying this chapter.

Lithological Characters.—Although by far the greater portion of the materials composing the
formation are extremely light, fine, and unconsolidated, there are, in some places, layers of
sandstone and conglomerate, which offer more resistance to the action of the weather than the
other strata, and that slightly modify the rounded contour of the hill-sides. The principal con-
stituent of the formation is a fine gray sand, mingled, in some of the beds, with a considerable
portion of clay, and alternating with layersin which clay predominates. Volcanic materials, or
sands derived from their abrasion, constitute a large part of the strata. Thick beds are formed
almost wholly of white pumice-stone, in rounded masses, or in a fine powder, like fine sand,
regularly bedded. The color of these beds is white, but the lines of stratification are rendered
very distinct by the stains produced by the percolation of impure waters; also, by layers of the
same ingredients, differing in their fineness, and by occasional seams of charcoal, in fragments.

Thin layers of pebbles are also numerous even among the strata of the finest materials. They
show that the waters, under which the beds were deposited, were liable to considerable disturb-

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LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS OF THE STRATA. | 167

ance, being sometimes comparatively quiet, and at others, thrown into currents. The thick
beds of sand also present evidences of variations of current, both in direction and velocity. "The
inclined stratification, called diagonal stratification, is very common, and in many cases is beau-
tifully shown by multitudes of the finest layers of sand, inclined in different directions, as shown
in the sectional representation of the strata at e, Geological Sectiens, Sheet I. :

The distinctness of these lines is caused by the difference in the sizes of the grains of sand,
and by slight differences of the materials, which have become stained yellow and brown since
they were deposited by the infiltration of ferruginous water from the superincumbent strata.
These examples of diagonal stratification were found in the lower portions of the strata, in the
hill-sides near the level of the creek. They were thus probably about eight hundred feet below
the higher beds of the formation. The diagonal stratification of the lower beds, and other
facts about to be mentioned, indicate that their deposition took place in comparatively shallow
water,

The mineral constitution and alternation of the strata will be better understood by the exam-
ination of the section which has been referred to. This represents the succession of the strata
in a vertical height of one hundred and sixty-two feet, and it is drawn on a scale of twenty feet
to an inch.

The hill in which this order of the strata occurs is near the spot which was occupied as the
Depot camp, and is on the south side of the creek. The upper parts of the series were not ex-
posed to view, and are not included in the section. It is, of course, impossible to represent,
within the limits of this section, the numerous lines of the strata; they are innumerable, and
very regular; most of the layers, among the finer materials, being as thin as paper.

The following is a brief description of the principal beds in the series, in their order of suc-
cession, from the level of the creek upwards. The letters refer to corresponding divisions of the
section. `

‚SECTION OF THE STRATA AT OCOYA CREEK.

Feet.
% ۳2 friable, gray sand, stained with lines of oxide of iron, and enclosing nodules of various sizes encased in
xide of iron 2.0
b. adt in thin layers, stained with oxide of ir 0.6
ge and sand, enclosing casts of fossils, cile stratified, and all strongly cemented with sesquioxide of _
0.7
c. Band, Gained by iron ; includes a thin layer of pebbles 20
d. Casts and moulds of fossil shells in sesquioxide of iron, gravel and sand ; layers oblique 1.4
e. Fine gray sand, cross stratification distinct, contains nodules of clay 240.
f. Fine gray sand, be e — layer of — een stratum is peur hid) 41.0
. 9. Argilla quarte to three inches in diameter 1.0
À. Fine sand, with RER layers of oxide of iron 4.0

Fine sand, with small, spherical and ellipsoidal masses of di Thin layers of charcoal, in
fragme:

nts
i. Fine white sand, derived from pumice-stone, with intercalated layers of pumice in nodules and in powder... 25.0
J. Pumice-sand, or — ashes, very fine and white, in thin strata 15.0
k. White clay and fine san 2.0
l Sand, with clay ee 20.0
m. Gravel and pebbles, with sand : 1.0
n. Gray sand, with layers of pebbles ا‎

Sandstone and layers of pebbles crop out at intervals on the side of the hill for fifty or sixty
feet above the last stratum described. Higher than this, a harder sandstone and a layer of con-
glomerate is found. Still above, to the tops of the hills, the strata are completely obscured by

168 GEOLOGY.

the covering of loose earth, derived from their degradation. Slight exposures at other places
show that nearly all the materials are soft and light, without much color, and similar to the
strata described in the section.

It was, however, observed that the upper beds of the formation, at other places, were gen-
erally more argillaceous than.the lower.

Plates of gypsum, from two to four inches thick, were found in the bed of the creek, mingled
with the debris of the formation. This mineral was also found in place, forming thin layers
parallel with the stratification, in several hills not far from the one from which the section
just described was taken. These plates were generally crystalline and transparent, and were
sometimes combined with the fibrous variety called satin-spar.

From the examination ot this descriptive section, it will be seen that volcanic products enter
largely into the composition of the strata. They even form the greater part of beds, ten to fifty
feet in thickness. The fact is significant, and leads to a consideration of the mighty exhibitions
of volcanic activity that must have been nearly co-existent with the formation of the strata.

In some of the beds of fine, white pumice-sand, thin seams of charcoal were distinct. They
were so numerous in some places that slabs of the sand were complely blackened by them. This
charcoal was in mere fragments, generally so minute that their true character was easily
overlooked ; but several pieces from one-quarter to one-half of an inch in diameter were found,
and in some the cellular structure of the wood was easily seen.

Stains produced by oxide of iron.—Layers, colored red by the presence of a considerable quan-
tity of sesquioxide of iron, were abundant in different parts of the strata, and were often very
thin and near together. Although these layers were generally conformable with the strata,
and often marked out the divisions very clearly, I became convinced that they were generally
the result of infiltration, rather than of original deposition. Of the correctness of this view, I
considered that there was sufficient evidence in the curves presented by the layers of oxide on
the vertical face of one of the thick beds of a light color, it thus being favorable for exhibiting
the lines. After tracing these ferruginous layers for considerable distances in a horizontal line,
some were found to bend suddenly downwards, in a curved direction, as shown in the annexed
figure. They evidently followed the walls of a slight fissure, extending obliquely across the
beds, and were undoubtedly formed by the gradual infiltration of ferruginous water, probably
derived from the decomposition of pyrites.

DEPOSITION OF OXIDE OF IRON BY PERCOLATION.
Ld

Fig. 1.

The T fluid appears to have reached the fissure*in its descent, and then to cti
flowed in greater quantity along its course, depositing the oxide of iron on the walls, and being

DEPOSITION OF OXIDE OF IRON BY INFILTRATION. 169

absorbed into the porous beds on each side. "The gradual convergence of the lines, and their
reappearance below, indicates that the intervening space was not favorable to the absorption of
the fluid.

The lines have a dark brown, or iron-rust color, and show distinctly in the white, argillaceous
strata. Where the oxide has accumulated in quantity, as along the fissure, the earth is closely
cemented, and, indeed, becomes very hard and unyielding to the weather. "The quantity of oxide
is greatest along the walls of the fissure, and in reality forms a rich iron ore.

If, as we have good reason to believe, the iron solution is derived from the decomposition of
pyrites, the lime of the strata plays an important part in the decomposition of the solution. Sul-
phate of lime is undoubtedly formed, and the iron oxide is precipitated, coloring the strata brown
or red. The solution of lime, thus formed by the decomposition of the sulphate of iron, may then
descend through the strata until the conditions favorable for its crystallization are obtained, and
thus produce the beds of gypsum that are found in the same formation. The lime, or other
substances in the beds, certainly exercise an important influence upon the deposition of the oxide
of iron, as is sufficiently shown by the fact of the existence of the waving lines in strata below
others that are free from all stain, and by the peculiar curved and concentric layers, as shown
in figure 2, which is a faithful sketch of a part of the bank, not far from the point from which
the first figure was copied. The lines of oxide in this figure resemble the grain of some of the
gnarled woods, and a decided tendency to the formation of concretions, or balls, with concentric
layers, is visible. A short distance beyond, the layers are nearly horizontal, and seem to form
a part of the original stratification.

The resemblance of these parallel curved lines to the plications and contortions produced in
soft strata, by pressure, could not pass unobserved. At first, this seemed to be their origin, for,
to all appearance, the layers of oxide were the result of original deposition, and they formed
a very considerable part of the strata. It is suggested that many of the apparent instances of
folding and crumpling in banks of drift, or in beds of the older Tertiary, may be only the result
of changes produced by infiltration. An example of contorted lines in a stratum of sand,
included conformably between horizontal beds, is given by Sir Charles Lyell." He describes
the curves as very complicated, and as sometimes, to all appearance, enveloping a central nucleus
of chalk, or clay. Similar curved layers occur around large masses of chalk, conforming to
their surfaces, while the chalk rests upon horizontal layers of clay, or sand, below, without
any signs of disturbance. All these appearances, as shown in the figures which are presented,
are similar to those seen in the Ocoya Creek strata. Sir Charles Lyell, however, notes the
presence of pebbles with the contorted layers, and is of the opinion that the curves result from
pressure or lateral forces. a ۱

Additional evidence or illustration of the effects produced by infiltrating waters, holding iron
in solution, was presented in the only deposit of fossil shells which was observed in the strata.
They were exposed in the bank of the creek about ten feet above its level. The layer was not
Over sixteen inches thick, and was composed mainly of sesquioxide of iron, which formed a firm
cement to the loose sand i in which the shells were imbedded. All the lime of these shells has
been removed by infiltration or otherwise, and the impressions of their surfaces are all that
remain,

These instances of the deposition of oxide of iron in horizontal layers and in veins by infil-
trating waters are exceedingly interesting, as they throw light upon the formation of deposits

: 1 Elements of Geology, 5th edition, p. 134.
22 F

170 | GEOLOGY.

of iron ore in strata of various ages. The origin of the gypsum, which abounds in the strata in
thin transparent plates or fibrous masses, is also shown by the phenomena. There is little
doubt that the gypsum crystallizes from the solutions of lime, which must accumulate in the
` strata below those in which oxide or carbonate of iron has been formed. The appearance of
interstratification that is presented by the gypsum is probably due to the fact that the solution,
in its downward progress, meets with a retentive layer of clay or other materials, or that other
conditions, favorable for crystallization, exist in some of the strata and not in others. The
complete separation of the selenite from the earthy materials holding the solution is an inter-
esting result of the action of the forces of crystallization, and must of necessity produce a con-
densation of the strata above and below. It is known that a separation of this kind results when
water freezes in a bank of earth, thin sheets of pure ice being formed in horizontal planes, and
thus elevating or condensing the earth above them. Another evidence of the correctness of this
explanation of the origin of layers of gypsum in stratified deposits is found in the fact that
thin seams occur in nearly horizontal planes in some of the highly inclined sandstone strata of
Navy Point, Benicia. They were not found in all of the beds, and the layers frequently end
abruptly against the sides of the stratum in which they occur. It was evident that they were
the result of infiltration. The great deposits of gypsum which are found along the Canadian
and Red rivers and on the Pecos probably have a similar origin. The sulphuric acid, in either
instance, may have been supplied by springs, or by volcanic vents when the strata were sub-
merged, or by the decomposition of other salts than sulphate of iron.

The peculiarly contorted and waved lines found in the sandstone strata at Benicia, in beds
which rested conformably with others in which the lines of lamination were perfectly straight,
are, without doubt, produced by infiltration, and connected with the formation of the seams of
gypsum. In the Tertiary of Virginia, along the lower part of the Potomac, it is known that
fossils cannot be obtained where gypsum abounds. Casts of the shells are all that remain, the
lime having doubtless been taken to form the gypsum.

Fossils.—The bed of fossil shells, from which specimens were procured that have been the
means of identifying this formation as Miocene, is near the spot we occupied as the Depót Camp,
and on the left bank of the creek. It was a source of much regret not only that the shells had
all been dissolved out, but that the extremely perfect impressions and casts which were left in
the clay and sand were so friable that they could not be transported. A person skilled in con-
chology could not fail to determine the species at once from these impressions, so perfect were
they in every part, even to the finest lines of the former surface of the shell. A few specimens,
which were more highly charged with oxide of iron than the others, were procured and trans-
ported in safety; but multitudes of the most interesting forms could not be carried away without
crumbling. Being without any glue with which to saturate these specimens, the only resource
was to make careful drawings upon the spot, representing, as nearly as possible, all the impor-
tant characters, so that the species might be determined from them. - Selections from the draw-
ings thus made will be found on Plates III to IX. They were forwarded to Mr. Conrad, of
Philadelphia, together with some of the specimens, and his report upon them will be found in
full in the Appendix. Mr. Conrad considers all these fossils as new species, and has named
them as follows: Natica Ocoyana, N. geniculata, Bulla jugularis, Pleurotoma transmontana,
P. Ocoyana, Sycotopus Ocoyanus, Turritella Ocoyana, Colus arctatus, Tellina Ocoyana, Pecten
Nevadanus, P. catillijornis. Casts of the following genera were identified, but the species
could not be determined: Cardium, Arca, Solen, Dosinia, Venus, Cytherea.

umen TARO

FOSSIL SHELLS AND TEETH OF SHARKS. 171

Specimens of the genus Natica are the most abundant. They occur of all sizes intermediate
between those represented, figure 57 being the largest one that was obtained. Natica geniculata
is described by Mr. Conrad from the drawing of the cast of the interior of the shell, Plate VII,
fig. 67. This cast, when among the others, appeared to me to be like the species represented in
figures 64 and 65. Casts of this form were numerous, and the exterior of the shell was shown
by the impressions of the outside to have been rugose and tuberculated. A fragment of one of
these i impressions of the exterior is represented in fig. 66.

Of the genera Pleurotoma and Turritella (Pl. VII, figs. 69 and 71, Pl. VIII, figs. 73 and 74,)
but three or four specimens were found. The casts of the interior were very perfect, even to the
end of the spire. :

The bivalves were very abundant, and generally of large size. Forms similar to fig. 79,
Plate VIII, (Dosinia ?) and 81 and 82; (Venus?) were most frequently found. Tellina (Pl. VIII,
fig 75) and others, perhaps the same species, were very numerous. The forms of both the inner
and outer portions of all these bivalves were well preserved, but the valves were all separated.

One specimen only of the form shown by fig. 78, Pl. VIII, was observed. The figures repre-
sent the cast of the interior, an end view showing its convexity, also a portion of the cast of the
outside. The impressions of numerous teeth along the hinge were very perfect, and they
resemble those of the genus Arca, to which I suppose the fossil belongs.

Impressions of very large shells of the genus Pecten were very numerous. Species identical
with, or similar to, that represented by fig. 77, Plate VIII, (Pecten Nevadanus) were the most
common. The shells were but slightly convex, but appeared to have been very thin, and to
have had very prominent ribs. The fine cast of Pecten catillifornis, represented on Plate IX,
fig. 83, was found on a slab of sandstone, but without the impression of the. exterior. It is
more convex than the other species of Pecfen, and has much larger ribs, as shown by their
imprints on the margin.

Two small teeth of sharks were found imbedded with the casts of these shells; but a much
greater number were obtained from the surface, on the tops of the hills, four or five hundred
feet higher up in the series of beds. They were lying loosely on the- ground, and appeared to
have been washed out of the upper strata of light clay by the rains. "They occur of various
Sizes and forms, some of which are shown in outline in the figures, and in full on Plate I.

TEETH OF SHARKS— FO SSIL.

EOS)
1, 2. Oxyrhina plana, Agass. ích dion siint a
3. Hemipristis heteropleurus, Agass. ; 6. Oxyrhina tumula, Agass,

These fossil teeth were submitted to Professor Agassiz, and his descriptions of them are pre-
sented in full in the Appendix. He observes that most of them belong to the * ‘family of

172 GEOLOGY.

sharks; one to that of skates, and another is remotely allied to the family of mackerels.’’
** No fossil sharks’ teeth having been found west of the Rocky mountains before, this discovery
of a variety of species belonging to several genera of the family of sharks constitutes one of the
most interesting additions to our knowledge that could have been obtained from that quarter;
and the importance of these fossils to science is further enhanced by the peculiar relations they
bear to similar fossils in the Atlantic States and in Europe, and to the sharks now living along
the shores of the Old and of the New World.’

These fossils all differ from known species, and are described by Professor Agassiz under the
following names: Echinorhinus Blakei, Scymnus occidentalis, Galeocerdo productus, Prionodon
antiquus, Hemipristis heteropleurus, Carcharodon rectus, Oxyrhina plana, O. tumula, and Lamna
clavata. It appears that a species of the genus Echinorhinus is now found in a fossil state for
the first time ; the only hitherto known representative—the Squalus spinosus, of Linneus—
being found only in the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, on the European and African coasts.
Professor Agassiz observes, that ‘‘the discovery of a fossil species of this genus in the Tertiaries
of the western slope of the Sierra Nevada is not only important as carrying back this curious
type of sharks to a period older than ours, but also in disclosing the existence upon the Ameri-
can continent of types in a fossil state known in the Old World only among the living. The
fossil species of Echinorhinus differs from the living, having the main point of the tooth more
prominent, and at the same time shorter, an appearance which arises from the less prominence
of the marginal denticles.””

It is also an interesting fact that while no representative of the genus Scymnus has yet been
found in the Pacific ocean, its former existence there is shown by the specimens. Professor
Agassiz also identifies one of the specimens as a fragment of a tooth of the genus Zygobates, of
the family of skates, with pavement-like teeth. No species of this genus, or the allied genera,
have yet been observed in the Pacific ocean. Several fragments of bone which I picked up with
these teeth are identified as belonging to the family of Scomberoides, remotely allied to the
mackerels, but they are too imperfect to be more nearly identified. Other fragments obtained at
the same time are bones of mammalia, but, with one exception, they were too small and un-
characteristic to be identified with any degree of certainty. One of them is considered by Dr.
Joseph Leidy, of Philadelphia, to be a portion of the crown of the molar tooth of a mastodon.
Several small specimens of silicified wood were also found. -

Age of the formation. —Mr. Conrad, after a careful examination and comparison of the fossil
shells, considers that the formation should be referred to the middle Tertiary or Miocene He
remarks that he does not find any recent species among them, nor any contained in an Eocene
mn Professor Agassiz arrives at a similar conclusion from the examination of the sharks’

th, i R

The original conditions of the deposition of these strata, so far as they are indicated by the
fossils and lithological characters, are worthy of attention. The earthy materials surrounding
the casts of the shells were not very fine, but consisted principally of coarse sand, mingled with
pebbles, the perfection of the casts being secured by the infiltrated oxide of iron and a small
portion of clay. The sand and clay had completely filled the interior of the most complicated
shells, being found to have penetrated to the full length of the spires of long Turritelle. The
shells were mingled together very closely, and in confusion. Oblique or diagonal stratification
was shown in the stratum as well as in those above, thus proving the existence of currents
changing in direction. The shells had evidently been drifted to that point and accumulated by

FORMER SHORES OF THE TERTIARY SEA—CHICO CREEK STRATA. 173

the current, although, in many respects, the bed appeared like a beach accumulation. The
valves were broken and separated, and piled in confusion, one on another, the interstices being
filled with coarse sand. The shells could not, however, have been rolled on the beach or trans-
ported about in contact with gravel and sand for a very long period, as the perfection of the
moulds of the outer parts was such as to lead to the belief that they had not been long exposed
to attrition.

The proximity of these beds to the high ridges of the Sierra Nevada, and to the underlying
granitic and metamorphic rocks, render the presence of beach accumulations extremely probable.
They would, in most cases, become re-assorted and drifted to a short distance during a period of
subsidence, especially if attended by sudden or convulsive movements.

We should expect to find, also, at different points along this belt of Tertiary strata, the
evidences of the former flow of rivers from the mountains as at the present day. Indeed, it is
most probable that the great mass of the strata is composed of materials transported to the
former sea by the rivers of the Sierra. At the points where these rivers were most numerous
and powerful, we should expect to find great variations in the lithological characters of the
strata, and also the remains of land plants and animals. "The layers of charcoal which occur,
may have been, and probably were, brought down to the sea by rivers. "These little fragments
not only show the presence of adjoining dry land covered with vegetation at that distant period,
when the whole inhabitable part of California was submerged beneath a Tertiary sea, but they,
together with the volcanic ashes in which they are entombed, assure us of then existing
volcanoes, in full activity, sending out streams of lava and einen. conflagrations in forests
long since passed away.

The remains of marine mollusca and of sharks are now about one hundred miles distant from
the ocean, and separated from it by high mountains. The bed of shells is at an elevation of
750 feet above tide, and the shark's teeth were at least 1,200 feet. It is probable, however,
that at other localities similar remains will be found at a much greater elevation; the hills upon
which the teeth were found being much lower than many within a short distance. There is
little doubt that in a few years, when the country becomes settled, and it is possible to roam
over the hills of this formation at leisure, many important localities of organic remains will be
found, and that it will become a favorite resort for the paleontologist.

CHICO CREEK AND VOLCANO RIDGE—VALLEY OF THE SACRAMENTO.

A very interesting deposit of fossil shells occurs on Chico creek, in the valley of the Sacra-
mento, at the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada. This was brought to notice by Dr. Trask in his
reports, and he presented me with a specimen of the rock. It is a compact calcareous sand-
stone, very hard, and of a gray color. The fossils are well preserved, and are white. Most
of them are fragments, and many species are thickly mingled together. The single specimen con-
tains a Nucula, N. divaricata, Conrad, Mactra albaria, Conrad, Tellina ——, [?] Natica ——[?]
and fragments of spiral shells. There are also fragments of Dentalium and small Baculites.
The occurrence of the latter in this deposit is exceedingly interesting, and was first announced
by Dr. Trask. Three fragments can be recognized in the specimen I obtained. They are
partly exposed, and are about one-quarter of an inch in diameter, but the suture lines are very
distinct,

An interesting deposit of fossils, or rather of their casts, (for all the lime has been removed,)

174 GEOLOGY.

is also found at Volcano Ridge, in a brown, calcareous sandstone. The specimens I have do not
contain a sufficient number of species to indicate, with any certainty, the period to which they
should be referred. "These species are, however, all different from any yet found in the Tertiary
of California, and appear to be much more ancient. I am led to this view by two distinct casts
of Trigonia, a fossil which is regarded as characteristic of the Secondary period. These casts
are imperfect ; but there is little doubt that their reference to the genus Trigonia is correct:
Casts of Leda, Mactra, Venus, Ostrea, Turritella? and other shells are also found. The
cast of the Leda is so perfect that its specific characters © can be satisfactorily given. It may be
known as Leda subacuta. !

CARRIZO CREEK AND THE COLORADO DESERT.

At several points along the western base of the Peninsula Sierra, between the Pass of San
Bernardino and the road to the Desert, along Carrizo Creek, we find outcrops of partly consoli-
dated strata of clay and sand. These are, in most instances, nearly horizontal, or but slightly
inclined, but at one point are upraised at an angle of about 20°. The exposures are on the
margin of the Colorado Desert, and generally in the valleys reaching towards the central part
of the mountains. The connexion of the several exposures, although not traced between the
points mentioned, is indicated by a general similarity of lithological characters and position
relatively to the older rocks. The outcrops do not appear in the form of a belt of hills, as at
Ocoya Creek, but are extremely low, but little elevated above the general level of the surface,
and present a flat or tabular surface, not worn away into smooth, rounded hills.

The only point at which fossils were obtained was in the dry valley of Carrizo Creek, within
a few miles of the open plain of the Desert. At this point the strata are nearly horizontal, and
fill the space between two ranges of granitic and metamorphic rocks, forming a valley extending
in a nearly northwest direction from the Desert. The valley of the creek is excavated in these
strata, and their edges are exposed on each side in bluffs, generally less than sixty feet in
height. These hills are generally flat, thus forming table-mounds where they are much cut by
side ravines. Similar strata were found in slight outcrops on the Desert, near the dry gulleys of
New River, and part way up the slope towards Carrizo Creek. They probably underlie the
whole surface of the Desert, being concealed from view by the thick deposits of alluvial and lacus-
trine clay.

Lithological characters.*—The outcrop on the slope of the Desert, near the road leading to
Carrizo Creek, consists chiefly of a light-colored, friable sandstone, calcareous, and rather coarse.
At the upper edge of the slope, where the road turns to descend to the level of the valley of the
creek, the hills or bluffs are argillaceous, and of a red color. No hard sandstone was noted.
Gypsum, in thin plates, is abundantly disseminated in these strata, and, by being washed out,
lies all over the surface in shining masses. All these strata are soft, and easily broken down
pedore ی‎ RE و وت مب هس‎ eos

g a large per-centage of lime, being in some places

! Lepa supacuta: Shell smooth, convex, of a height equalling half the length ; anteriorly elliptically rounded ; pun
riorly acute, compressed, but with a sufficiently prominent postero-su
enter; ii ee ar iie. e o

Length, 0.7 ; height, 0.354 ; breadth or thickness, 0.25 inch.
Locality: Volcano Ridge, California, in a brown calcareous sandstone.
* Reference is made to the Itinerary for observations upon the strafa in detail.

6 beaks are ver minute.

rior ridge ; ventral margin regularly convex; beaks -

-

TERTIARY OF CARRIZO CREEK— FOSSILS. 175

traversed by veins of calcite. These sandstone beds differ in hardness, some being firm and
apparently durable, and others friable and easily crumbled by the hand. In some of the harder
beds large, spherical concretions occur. No uniform beds of conglomerate, like those found in
the strata of Benicia and Monte Diablo Valley, or at Bear Creek, could be found. At a point
nearly opposite the usual camping ground, on the creek, the strata were, however, composed of
coarse sand and gravel rudely mingled together; but, in general, the deposits are fine, and do
not exhibit the influence of powerful currents at the time of their deposition.

Another extensive outcrop of similar strata was traversed on the 19th of November, and is
described in the Itinerary. These beds were remarkable for the regularity of their stratification
and the number of the extraordinary concretions, of all imaginable forms, which were lying in
long lines on the outcropping edges. The materials of this series are nearly all fine, being
clays of different shades of brown, gray, and red. Gypsum occurs with the red strata. These
strata are upraised at an angle of about twenty degress, and trend north 25° west. There was
no favorable section showing the dip or the thickness of each bed, but the combined thickness,
as exposed, is not less than two thousand feet.

At the northwestern extremity of the valley of the Desert, near the base of the Pass of San
Bernardino, an exposure of strata, in a ravine, resembles those just described; but they are
harder, and not so much disturbed. They contain a great abundance of concretions ; many of
them being true septaria, or flattened ellipsoids of clay, with internal cracks, filled with crystal-
lized carbonate of lime. Nodules and concretions of peroxide of iron were also numerous, and
some of the specimens appear to have been the remains of plants,

The extent of the strata of Carrizo Creek, towards the south, along the mountains, is not
known ; but the same series undoubtedly appears at intervals as far as the Gulf, and, probably,
is Lor southward along its shores. The sandy strata, which are exposed in bluffs along
the Colorado, from Pilot Knob to and beyond Fort Yuma, and which also extend on the oppo-
site shore, and along the Gila, are probably a part of the series, but have not yet been identified
by fossils. "They may be much more recent. These bluffs are the margins of the great desert
plains, which are paved with a thick layer of pebbles—a kind of drift which has been uniformly
spread out along the lower Colorado and Gila. A similar drift occurs on the tops of the mesas
along Carrizo Creek. It is identified not only by a similarity in the size and general character
of the pebbles, which are chiefly porphyry and black basaltic fragments, but by the presence ot
quantities of silicified wood, in fragments of all sizes, from an inch in length to several feet.
The largest masses of silicified wood were, however, confined to the vicinity of Carrizo Creek.
The pebbles, also, along the Colorado appear to be derived from a layer of conglomerate, about
five feet thick, which overlies the sandy beds; while on the other side of the Desert, at Carrizo
Creek, this layer of conglomerate does not appear, or was not observed. .

‘ossils.—Fossils were obtained from one point only near the Desert and in the valley of Car-
rizo Creek, They form the upper stratum of one of the flat-topped hills, and great blocks, com-
posed entirely of the shells and their fragments, have broken off by their own weight and rolled
to the foot of the short slope. The stratum is several feet thick, is very hard, and is entirely
composed of shells, chiefly of the genera Ostrea and Pecten, and a little clay. Mr. Conrad
recognizes, also, a species of Anomia, and regarding them all as new forms, has described them
under the names: Pecten Deserti, Anomia subcostata, and Ostrea vespertina. (See Appendix,
and Plate V, figs. 34, 36, 37, 38, and 41.) Dr. Heerman, the naturalist of the Expedition, in
passing along the dry bed of the creek, two or three miles below, picked up an Ostrea much

176 GEOLOGY.

larger than any in the bed. This is also new, and is named O. Heermani. It is about six inches
in length. Mr. Conrad notes an analogy between these fossils and those of the Miocene strata
of Virginia. The Anomia is allied to A. Ruffini, and Ostrea vespertina to O. subfalcata. He
is inclined to regard the formation as Miocene. The Miocene fossils, to which he refers in con- |
nexion with these, in his letter, were from a different locality, being from the coast, at San
Diego or Santa Barbara.

SAN DIEGO.

The gradual slope extending from the base of the Peninsula Sierra to the sea at San Diego
appears to consist Of nearly horizontal, or but gently inclined, Tertiary strata. Its upper mar-
gin, at the foot of the ridges, has a general elevation of about 1,200 feet, and its descent to the
sea, fifteen miles distant, is very gradual. The streams in their descent cut canal.like valleys,
with steep sides. "These are very narrow, and are generally invisible from a short distance—
the general aspect of the slope being that of an unbroken plain. The surface, however, and the
sides of the valleys bear no resemblance to the barren and arid exposures of the formations of
Carrizo Creek, on the other side of the mountains, On the seaward side, the surface is soil-
covered and obscured by vegetation, and the edges of the strata along the valleys of erosion
are hid by a talus of debris and earth. It therefore was not possible to determine the litholo-
gical characters of the strata with any detail. In descending the mountains from San Pasqual
towards San Diego; rounded hills were observed just before reaching the slope. These appeared
to be formed of horizontal strata, and were of light argillaceous sand and the debris of granite.
Their relations to the strata of the adjoining slope were not determined, but they were supposed
to be a part of the same series. On the road from the Mission to ‘‘ Old Town,” or San Diego,
a slight exposure of the strata at the road-side consists of soft sandstone and clay ; principally
friable, argillaceous sandstone, colored dark brown by bitumen or coaly matter. The presence
of coal or lignite in the vicinity of San Diego has been several times reported, but no specimens
have come under my observation,

On the left or north side of the entrance to the bay, there is a series of rounded hills rising
to the elevation of 200 or 400 feet. They appear to consist entirely of soft and semi-consolidated
strata; and at the end of Point Loma, where they have been undermined by the surf, are com-
posed of sand and pebbles, with the lines of stratification slightly inclined inland. It is doubt-
ful whether these Strata are an upraised portion of those forming the slope or a more modern
deposit. A heavy dyke of greenstone extends parallel with the foot of the mountains, and at
some points may have uplıfted and broken the strata, but there was no good evidence of it along
the road. A limited exposure of sandstone, in the banks of a small brook not far from this
dyke, consisted of beds inclined at an angle of less than ten degrees, These were surmounted
by a conglomerate of rounded pebbles like the shingle of a beach ; similar accumulations were
noted at other points on the surface of the slope.

Fossils.—Before leaving thé Mission of San Diego, a block of sandstone, filled with fossils,
was handed to me; but the locality was not seen. It is a compact sandstone, not unlike that of
the Bay of San Francisco and Oregon. Mr, Conrad finds it to contain the following species!
Cardium modestum, Nucula decisa, Corbula Diegoana, Mactra Diegóana, Natica Diegoana, Tro-
chita Diegoana, Tellina Diegoana, and T. congesta. He also remarks a paleontological relation
between these fossils and those of Monterey, Carmello, and those found in boulders in Oregon
by Mr. Townsend and Professor Dana. It is indeed uncertain whether two of the San Diego

TERTIARY AT SAN DIEGO, SAN FERNANDO, AND SAN PEDRO. 177
t

species are not identical with Oregon forms. ‘‘ Nucula decisa is similar to N. divaricata, and
both, in their markings, resemble N. Cobboldii of the English Miocene. Mactra Diegoana
is nearly related to the Oregon M. albaria." The little species Tellina congesta is one of the
most abundant fossils at Monterey, where it covers slabs of rock many feet square. For figures,
see Plate III. i

BERNARDINO SIERRA AND SAN FERNANDO.

The range of hills extending nearly east and west between the valley of the Santa Clara and
the plains of San Fernando is composed of uplifted strata of argillaceous sandstone. The
range extends nearly in the line of prolongation of the valley of Williamson’s Pass, and has
an average elevation of 1,000 feet above the plain of San Fernando. There is thus a very con-
siderable exposure of the strata, and they probably attain a great thickness.

The pass of San Fernando is, unfortunately, not a deep break or ravine through the range,
made by a stream; the strata are thus not favorably exposed to view. Their lithological
characters were indicated to some extent by the debris and transported blocks found in the
ravines, and from them it was evident that thick beds of a very compact and even-grained sand-
stone occurred in the range. The strata in general, however, appeared to be soft and not
indurated, being chiefly gravel, sand, and clay, principally the debris of granitic rocks.

F'ossils.— The only fossils obtained from the formation were in a loose mass of the sandstone
near the southern base of the Pass. The genera Ostrea, Pecten and Turritella are represented,
but the specimens are so imperfect that they cannot be specifically identified. "They are, how-
ever, sufficient to show the Tertiary age of the strata, and I am inclined to regard them as
Miocene. The Eocene is very probably present at the base, and the Cretaceous may also occur.
The range of hills separating the San Fernando plains from those of Los Angeles is formed of
sandstone strata very similar to those of the San Fernando range, and I am inclined to regard
them as of the same age. On the other side, or towards the north, the extensively developed
strata exposed in the lower part of the Pass of San Francisquito, and in Williamson's Pass
nearly to its summit, are so near the Tertiary formation of San Fernando, and appear to be so
connected with it, that there is little doubt of their being a part of the same formation. We,
however, do not find in the San Fernando range those thick strata of red argillaceous sandstone
which appear in the passes. These may be referred to the lower part of the series, or may
possibly be of the age of the upper Cretaceous. The interesting relations which these uplifted
and folded sandstone strata bear to the adjoining granitic and metamorphic rocks, renders the
determination of their age an important pee Their lithological characters and general extent
are described in the Itinerary.

LOS ANGELES AND SAN PEDRO.

_ It is very probable that the strata of the ranges just described pass beneath the surface and
form the gently sloping plains of Los Angeles and its vicinity. The surface is, however, so
generally level and regular in its descent that it does not appear possible that the underlying
strata are thrown into flexures or inclined at angles corresponding to those in the ranges. If
the strata do extend seaward under the slope, they either become nearly horizontal, or the irregu-
; 23 F

178 GEOLOGY.

larities are filled up by more modern accumulations. The nearly horizontal position of the
upper strata of the slope is shown by slight outcrops at several points near the city.

At one of these outcrops, in the bank of a brook, the strata are argillaceous and sandy shales,
charged with bitumen, and this substance rises to the surface in the vicinity. At another point
nearer the city, and among the gently rolling hills just north of it, the strata are white, like
chalk, and very tough, so that the rock can be broken out in blocks. It is very light and
porous, absorbing water rapidly when wet, and emitting a strong argillaceous odor. It is
principally white clay and fine sand, and does not effervesce with acids. It appeared to have
been quarried, under the supposition that it contained lime.

At San Pedro, twenty miles distant, there is a fine exposure of the edges of strata in the bluff
overhanging the beach. This bluff is from forty to sixty feet high, and is nearly vertical,
being constantly undermined by the waves. The strata appear in nearly horizontal lines along
the face of the bluff. and present a considerable difference in their lithological characters.
Some of them are almost wholly formed of.clay, others of soft sandstone, and others of a more
compact, but fine-grained rock, formed by the mingling of the two materials. With the excep-
tion of some beds at the base of the series, they are all light-colored, and have a modern
appearance. The lower beds are bituminous, and emit a strong odor of bitumen when they
are struck by the hammer. This bituminous mass is thinly stratified, and is, in fact, a mass
of bituminous, clay shales, which are soft and plastic where washed by the tide. They are
exposed along the shore, the base of the beds being below the surface of the water, but the upper
limit rising in places to a height of five feet above it. Above these bituminous shales the
argillaceous beds are stained with oxide of iron, and nodular masses or concretions of the oxide
protrude from the face of the bluff at many points, A short distance beyond the landing, the
upper part of the beach, under the cliff, is strewn with large, tabular blocks of sandstone, of &
brown color, and evidently derived from the wear of the bank. They lie piled together in con-
siderable quantities, and resist the action of the surf very well. They are thus shown to be
much harder than the other strata, which are easily washed away. The surfaces of these
blocks present peculiar markings, or reticulations, which are readily recognized as sun-cracks,
and are precisely similar in appearance to those found on the slabs of red sandstone in the
quarries of New Jersey and Connecticut, They also resemble the deep cracks produced in the
clay soils of California by the sun and air after the rainy season. It would thus appear that at
the time of the deposition of this stratum of sandstone it was alternately above and below the
surface of the water, and it may have formed the surface-layer of a shelving beach or estuary
flat, occasionally left bare and exposed to the sun for a long time.

Among other fragments of sandstone and igneous rocks along the beach, I procured many
rounded masses of a black, or brownish-black, silieious rock, which much resembled coal, or à
dark, impure resin. The lines of stratification were very numerous and near together, and
some of the fragments cleaved readily, parallel to these layers ; but most of them broke with a
conchoidal fracture, yielding thin, sharp fragments like flint or obsidian, though not so vitreous.
These masses were evidently bituminous, and were very interesting as an indication of the
proximity of strata formed of the same material, for they are probably broken from an outcrop
below the surface of the water. They are still more interesting from a close resemblance they
bear to compact vitreous beds in the great infusorial formation of Monterey. The presence ad
strata of marine infusoria in the vicinity of San Pedro is thus indicated. Specimens of this

BITUMINOUS STRATA—BITUMEN—FOSSILS. 179

bituminous and silicious rock are in the collection, and one of them has been submitted to
chemical examination. It was found to contain:

Silica.
Alumnia and oxide of iron.
Oxide of manganese, (trace.)
Lime.
Magnesia.
Sulphuric acid.
Phosphoric acid, (trace.)

Water.

A thin splinter of the rock is translucent, and of a brown color, but when heated before the
blowpipe becomes white, but does not fuse. The odor of bitumen is given off at the same time.
Yields water and bitumen in a tube. It scratches glass readily. There is little doubt of the
infusorial origin of these masses, although the organisms cannot be detected.

The edges of the strata of the bluff are not exposed in truly horizontal lines ; they are slightly
bent into curves of a large radius. At one point, between the landing and the mouth of the
Los Angeles river, abrupt and sharp flexures occur, and indicate a considerable disturbance or
lateral pressure of the beds. There is, also, the appearance of an anticlinal axis, the strata
dipping each way from a point which extends out into the bay towards a small island. It is
most probable that the intrusion which caused this disturbance of the strata—if it may be referred
to intrusive rock—was in the first range inland, back of Los Angeles, where there is a thick
dyke of trappean rock, forming the crest ofthe range bounding the plain of San Fernando on
the south and east.

No fossils were observed in these strata, but they are probably Tertiary, and a part of the
series which forms the San Fernando range. They are, probably, continuous beneath the more
recent deposits of the plain, and the source of the many overflows of bitumen, called Tar Springs
by the residents of that vicinity. The quantity of bitumen which rises to the surface is very
great, and indicates the presence of considerable deposits of vegetable remains in the strata
below. The beds, from which it rises in such quantity, are far below those exposed in the bluff
at San Pedro. This is shown by the fact that the bitumen exudes from submarine springs, and
appears in quantities upon the water many milesfrom theshore. These floating masses of bitu-
men indicate the extension of the strata for along distance seaward ; indeed, there is much
reason to believe that the islands, which trend nearly parallel.with the coast, are formed of
Tertiary sandstone.

The probability that these strata are of the age of Miocene, is increased by the fact of the
presence of Miocene fossils in the bluffs at Santa Barbara or San Luis Obispo. They were
collected at one of these two places by Dr. Heerman, and probably at Santa Barbara, but it is
not certain. Mr. Conrad finds them to be, ‘‘a Mercenaria, (M. perlaminosa, Conrad,) scarcely
differing from a species of Cumberland county, New Jersey, (JM. Ducatelii, Conrad,) a Cemoria,

Pandora, and Cardita, of extinct species closely analogous to Miocene forms.” These were
taken from bluffs along the beach, very similar to those at San Pedro. It is, however, possible
that these strata are older than the Miocene.

Near the mouth of the Los Angeles river there are more modern deposits than those of the
high bluff near the landing. They contain fossils differing but little, if any, from species now
living on the coast, and are described under the head of Post Pliocene deposits.

1 Mr. Conrad'sletter, Appendix, Article IT. -

DEN veg ES

180 GEOLOGY.

MONTEREY.

Point Pinos, the northern termination of the Santa Lucia range of the Coast Mountains, is
formed of a gray, porphyritic granite, and by its hardness and resistance to the sea, forms a
bulwark or breakwater for the bay. The Tertiary formations adjoin this granite on the inner
side of the point, and extend for many miles inland towards the southeast. "They are of
different colors, generally very light, and are composed of fine materials. Several quarries have
been opened in the strata near the town, and the rock is used for buildings and walls. The
strata are composed of argillaceous and fine, silicious materials, so fine that the grains are not
easily visible. The rock is very light and porous, and when the blocks are freshly broken out
from the quarry they can be easily hewn into shape by an axe, being free from coarse grit or
gravel. The colors are chiefly light-yellow, or buff of various shades, and a fawn-color or drab;
some of the beds are dark-greenish black or olive-brown. A light-yellow or buff, similar to
that of lithographic stone or Bath brick, is, however, the prevailing tint. In density the rock
is somewhat similar to Bath brick or the biscuit-ware of the potter, and, like both, it rapidly
absorbs water when dry. The large Court-house, built by Walter Colton, and the church,
erected in 1794, are constructed of this stone, and the sharp edges and angles which are retained
by the blocks in the walls of the latter show that the material has great durability in that
climate, and is well adapted to. purposes of construction.

Some of the darker strata, though indurated and apparently without any volatile constituent,
are bituminous, and give off an empyreumatic odor when heated before the blow-pipe flame. It
is most probable that this bitumen is of animal origin, and its presence would not be suspected
on examination by the eye merely.

These light, porous rocks form the principal part of the hills in the vicinity of the town, and
extend towards the Bay of San Carlos and the Valley of the Carmello. The Mission of San
Carlos, near the mouth of the Carmello, is built of them. These strata are probably near the
base of the formation at Monterey, and rest directly upon the granite. No coarse materials
were observed, but at the Bay of San Carlos there is a coarse conglomerate in thick beds,
which appears to adjoin the granite and may underlie the softer and finer strata, but they were
not seen in proximity, and it is doubtful whether the conglomerate is not much more recent in
its origin.

Higher up in the series of strata, and at the summits of some of the hills, we find a most
remarkable series of chalk-like beds, which consist, in great part, of the remains of silicious
infusoria. The strata attain a great thickness, and are probably the most extensive and
interesting deposit of marine microscopic organisms hitherto discovered.!

The principal outerop; so far as yet known, is visible from Monterey and the anchorage of the
bay, and appears as a white spot in the side of a hill about two miles from the centre of the
town. This hill attains an elevation of over 300 feet above the bay,’ and is separated from it
by a broad, sandy plain and a belt of sand-hills along the beach. Groves of oak are found
around the base of the hill, but towards its top it is covered with a dense growth of chamizal,
(shrubbery,) through which the outcrop of white earth can be seen from a distance. The
principal outcrop is an exposure 100 feet in length by from 15 to-40 in width, and it is seen to

1 A notice of this deposit was communicated to the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia, in April, 1855.—See

i It was also described at the meeting of the American Association, in Providence, 1855. ;

? In the notice of this deposit the elevation of the hill was stated as 500 or 600 feet. I have reason to conclude that this
estimate was two high.

LI
~

MICROSCOPIC ORGANISMS AT MONTEREY. 181

extend much further in all directions under the vegetation. The white, chalk-like earth con-
trasts strangely with the green leaves above it—it seems as little fitted for vegetation as a lime
heap. The removal of the loose fragments lying upon the surface revealed the existence of
numerous lines of stratification as thin and regular as the leaves of a book. This white outcrop
appears to be the: principal or thickest stratum of the series, and it is near the top of the hill,
but lower down, the white earth alternates with silicious beds, which are peculiarly compact and
very finely stratified. Some of these layers are excessively hard, and the rock breaks with a
conchoidal fracture, like flint or semi-opal.

The whole series of strata are parallel, but not horizontal, being inclined in a direction south
of east, or nearly southeasterly, at an angle of from twenty to thirty degrees. The following is
the succession of the beds, from the upper stratum downwards to the lowest point which was .
examined. The thicknesses given are approximations :

SECTION OF INFUSORIAL STRATA AT MONTEREY.

Feet

l. White silicious earth, light, and charged with infusoria 50.0

2. Compact and silicious, probably bituminous 3

3. White and earthy, resembling No. - ^ Er

4. Compact, silicious, dark-colored, 3 bituminous

1 5. White and earthy, like No. 1 ys

L 6. Compact, silicious, dark- TUN and bituminous de

3 7. White and earthy, like No.

E 8. Compact, flint-like, very int and nearly white. No very thin layers 2.0
3 9. White, earthy, and silicious, like No. 1. In very thin layers, intercalated with thin sheets of o and

: semi-opaline sil
10. Compact and talons. Hard and drab-colored
: 11. White and earthy, similar to No. 1. (The thickness of this stratum was not ascertained; it extends down-
A wards under the chamizal for a long distance.) AH

It will thus be seen that there is one bed of microscopic organisms fifty feet in thickness.
This is believed to be much less than it is in reality. The underlying beds, which are similar
in their appearance, are probably equally fossiliferous ; but this has not been demonstrated by
examination. Their thicknesses are, respectively, 1, 12, 2, and 10 feet, which, added to the

$ : thickness of the upper stratum, make a total of seventy-five feet. This is exclusive of the com-
4 pact silicious strata, which are presumed to be also fossiliferous.
E The white infusorial earth contains much clay, and is very tough. Itis easily cut or carved

into any form with a knife, and may be sawn into square blocks with great ease. Unless
crushed to powder on the surface, it does not soil the fingers. It absorbs water rapidly, but
does not easily break down in it, or soften like clay.

A fragment of the upper stratum was forwarded to Professor J. W. Bailey, of the United
States Military Academy at West Point in 1854; in his letter of acknowledgment, he states that
it is “ rich in marine diatoms ; the seive-like discs belong to the genus Coscinodiscus, but there
are many other very beautiful forms present. It is singular that the deposit contains some
species which have only recently been detected as living species in the Pacific. It has v a
modern look, and contains many species which could only have grown in shallow water.’

A full series of specimens was obtained, and, together with one large block of the whiteearth,
was placed in the hands of Professor Bailey for examination. He has found many very inter-
esting forms, but his observations on them have not been — Figures of many, drawn by
Professor B., will be found on Plate XII.

The compuct silicious layers, intercalated with the porons infusorial Nb, are very peculiar.

182 GEOLOGY.

The rock of some of them is like semi-opal in density and lustre. The fracture is also similar,
being curved ; and the surface and edges vitreous in their appearance, like glass. Their color
varies from white to drab, or fawn color, and is sometimes pink. Thin layers or lines of strati-
fication are visible in all of them. Silica is the chief constituent, and it was probably deposited
in an impalpable or gelatinous form. Many of the specimens resemble, in their texture, the
water-worn masses which were picked up on the beach at San Pedro; but none of the layers
were so dark-colored or highly charged with bitumen. These dark silicious masses of San Pedro
are, without doubt, from a sirnilar series of infusorial strata, and the deposits are doubtless con-
nected or synchronous in their origin. This is rendered almost certain by the discovery of a
deposit of the white earth at San Luis Obispo, which contains forms almost identical with those
of Monterey. A specimen, obtained from the locality by a friend, has been forwarded to Pro-
fessor Dailey.

T'he strata near the town, which are quarried into for building stone, are also fossiliferous ;
the surfaces of many of the slabs, when they are split parallel with the numerous lines of strati-
fication, being found to be covered with innumerable impressions and casts of small bivalve
shells. "These lie thickly together, and sometimes one within the other, as if they had fallen to
the bottom in quiet water, or rather, had been left bare upon a shelving beach of fine clay. The
most abundant fossil is the small Tellina, which Mr. Conrad describes as 7. congesta. It occurs
in a similar rock at San Carlos, or in the valley of Carmello creek, and is associated with a
Lutraria, L. Traskie,' (Plate III, fig. 23,) and impressions of very small crabs, too obscure to be -
identified. ~

A stratum of the Monterey rock, similiar in its texture to that used for buildings, but differing
in color, being dark olive-brown, also contains the casts of Tellina Congesta in great numbers.
They cover square yards of the surface of flat layers.—(See figs. 21 and 14 a Plate III.) This
abundant fossil occurs also at San Diego with the Miocene fossils.

In addition to the Tellina and Lutraria, these rocks are charged with innumerable and beau-
tiful Polythalamia, lying in thin layers through the stone and becoming visible by their numbers
in white lines on the edges of the slabs. They may be seen by the unassisted eye, but their
forms cannot be traced without the microscope. "They are very white and perfectly preserved,
and are exceedingly beautiful objects for microscopic examination. The clay in which they
occur is so firm and indurated that it is very difficult to detach them for study; every cross-
fracture of the rock presents innumerable sections, and occasionally the full form of a shell is
visible on the surface. It is this dark-colored rock which gives off a bituminous odor ; but it is
not like the bituminous masses of San Pedro, which are composed chiefly of silex.

GREAT BASIN.

The stratified formations of sandstone and sandy clays, observed at different points within the
limits of the southern part of the Basin, are doubtless Tertiary, but, from the absence of a sufi-
cient number of fossils, it is not possible to affirm positively on this point, or to indicate the
probable division of the Tertiary to whieh they may be referred.

The only fossils found were the silicified stems of plants described in the Itinerary, Chapter
V., page 36. They occur in the upraised sandstone strata of the eastern end of the Cañada de
las Uvas, where it opens out upon the slope of the Basin. The fossils are sufficient to show the
comparatively recent origin of the strata, but, being entirely new, and of undetermined affinities,

! By permission of Mr. Conrad, this species is dedicated to Dr. J. B. Trask, who collected it.

e DET ۳ مگ‎ A ی‎ THE

TERTIARY AND MODERN STRATA OF THE BASIN. 183

do not serve to identify the strata with known formations. These fossils are not only interesting
and important as the only evidence (aside from lithological characters) of the modern origin of
the strata, but have peculiarities of structure of great interest to the botanist and student of
fossil vegetation. Similar fossils were obtained from a silicious boulder on the banks of Posuncula
River, on the other side of the Sierra Nevada; on comparison, they appear to be identical in
structure, although differing so much in color and appearance as to leave no doubt of the
existence of two localities.

In the Great Basin the stems form beds, with a combined thickness of several feet, lying
interstratified conformably with the strata on each side. "The beds are almost wholly composed
of the stems ; they are closely matted together and twisted in various directions. Their color
is a light bluish-gray, and they are completely silicified so as to preserve every cell and fibre
with perfect distinctness. The specimens from Posuncula River, being rather larger and less
compressed, were selected for examination, and slices across the stem were ground down thin
and polished by the lapidary. These were submitted to Professor Bailey for his examination,
and he prepared an elaborate figure showing the structure.! It was oco plnied by the follow- 1
ing explanation :

“The plants, as far as I can make out the structure, are annual shoots of an exogenous struc-
ture, presenting a distinct pith, (p. in the drawings); medullary rays (r); a layer of liber (l);
and a loose succulent bark (b), having large lacunæ (la). ‘In the outer portion of the wood a
series of large vessels, v 1; of smaller, v 2; and of still smaller ones, v 3, are placed. Icould
not detect upon these vessels any indications of spiral or dot.

“The specimens from the east slope of the Sierra agree in all essential points with the above,
the only difference noticed being the "mn of a few large vessels surrounded with woody
fibre within the pithy portion.

**I cannot venture with the limited data furnished above to form any opinion upon the affinities
of these plants.

“The vertical section, fig. 1, is made up from observations of-various splinters from different
parts of the plants which I encased in Canada balsam. The horizontal section, fig. 2, is from

| the section made by the lapidary in New York, which I afterwards rubbed down to half the
1 thickness the lapidary had given. The section thus obtained was as perfect as if from a recent
1 plant. It showed the cells filled with transparent silica, and in the larger lacune the arrange-
3 ment of the silica into small spherical agates was distinctly visible.”

The lithological characters of these strata are given in detail in the Itinerary, Chapter V.
They consist, for the most part, of coarse-grained sandstone and conglomerate, and are upheaved
at an angle of fifty-four or fifty-five degrees, and trend northeast and southwest. An intrusive
rock is found in the vicinity. Outcrops of uplifted sandstone also occur as far as the summit of
the Cañada de las Uvas, which, however, is but little elevated above the general surface of the

In. As these outcrops occupy the re-entering angle between the end of the Sierra Nevada
and the Bernardino mountains, they are within the limits of the Basin. The outcrops near the
summit may be near the source of the Eocene fossils found at the entrance of the pass on the
western slope. We are thus led to suspect that they are of the age of the Eocene.

About twenty miles east of the outcrop containing the stems, and near to the entrance of the
Pass of San Francisquito, there is another interesting exposure of upraised strata, but they are
Very different in their lithological characters. A great part of theformation is of fine materials;

1 See Appendix, Article V.

184 GEOLOGY.

but several very thick beds of conglomerate and breccia of porphyry, and other volcanic rocks,
overlie them. A section will be found on page 56.

The sedimentary formations.of the high valley of Lake Elizabeth, being on the north slope
of the Bernardino Sierra, are also within the Basin, and are separated from the upraised
strata just described by a long but low ridge of granite. The strata in the valley are horizontal,
and composed of coarse, gray sandstone. They form a line of hills, with rounded, soil-
covered surfaces, so that the strata are not well exposed to view.

A range of sedimentary hills is found throughout the chain of high valleys extending par-
allel with the Bernardino Sierra on the north, and at times they form the only ridge of separa-
tion between the valleys and the slope of the Basin. Thus, in passing from Lake Elizabeth
towards Williamson's Pass, hills composed of horizontal strata are either found in the valley or
upon the left, nearly to the Pass, when they become low and gradually disappear under the
slope. Beyond this, however, and opposite the entrance to the Pass, there is a wide area of
rounded hills, which, in all probability, are a continuation of the same deposits. The strata at
-all these different points do not present the same lithological characters. Those near Lake
Elizabeth are more firm and compact, and contain beds of hard sandstone. Those nearer to
the Pass are more argillaceous, and less firmly consolidated. At one point, beds of white, red,
and greenish clays were observed; the white beiug the debris of white feldspathic granite.
Gypsum was also seen in thin sheets. These formations have considerable resemblance in their
external aspect to the lower hills of the Miocene deposits of Ocoya creek. T

Although the topography, and several slight exposures of the strata, indicate their horizontal
position, one or more outcrops were highly inclined, a dip of seventy-five degrees being observed
at the eastern point of the low range separating the Basin slope from the mountains. This
may be a local disturbance, or an older series of strata. Near the lower ridges of the moun-
tains, at the Pass, there are hills and outcrops of hard strata of sandstone and a thick bed of
breccia of volcanic rocks, porphyries, and the like, the fragments being from eight to twelve
inches in diameter, and closely packed together. These strata incline northeasterly at an angle
of twenty degrees, and dip away from a dyke, or ridge, of igneous rocks. They appear to
underlie the less firmly consolidated, and probably horizontal, stratalower down the slope. No
break or want of conformity was observed. ` i

Further east, along the base of the mountains, outcrops of other strata are seen in the banks
of Cottonwood Creek. They do not resemble, lithologically, either of the outcrops which have
been described. They consist of the fragments and fine debris of granitic rocks, and have 8
red or pinkish color, due to the presence of a large portion of pink feldspar. A somewhat
similar rock was seen in the Cañada de las Uvas, and occurs again in the Cajon Pass. At the
last mentioned place the strata are greatly developed, and form high hills, conspicuous for their
peculiar forms, due to the action of the weather. They are inclined at an angle of forty due
degrees both in the Pass and along the banks of Cottonwood Creek ; and the similarity of their
lithological characters is such as to lead to the conclusion that they had a synchronous origin.
Both localities are free from indications of fossils; and the coarse materials indicate the rapid
formation of the beds under the action of swift currents.

Other sedimentary deposits were observed along the Mojave River, at the point where the
road first crosses the stream, and beyond, towards the end of the valley, in the Soda Lake.
These deposits are soft, marly clays, or clay and sand, of light colors, but sometimes bluish and
red. They rise in high banks along the lower parts of the river, and are worn by the weather

TERTIARY STRATA OF THE GREAT BASIN. 185

into fantastic forms. Indications of horizontal argillaceous strata are also found around the
bases of several of the ** Lost Mountains."

High, rounded hills, evidently sedimentary, were visible several miles north of the entrance
to the Tejon Pass from the Great Basin, and strata of different colored clays were exposed by a
land-slide, or deep erosion, produced by a sudden fall of rain. These strata attain a great thick-
ness, and may be of the age of those seen near the summit of the Cañada de las Uvas. It is
also probable that they produce the beds of salt which are resorted to by the Indians from the
Tejon.

These brief descriptions of the chief exposures of the sedimentary formations of the southern
part of the Basin are sufficient to show the great diversity in their lithological characters, and
the diffieulty of grouping them correctly without further explorations, and the collection of
fossils. We may, however, separate them, lithologically, into four groups, or divisions:
1st. The soft, unconsolidated strata of variously colored clay and sand, or clay and sand mingled
together, forming rounded hills, with the strata generally horizontal; 2d. The compact sand-
stone and semi-consolidated argillaceous strata; 3d. The sandstones and thick beds of breccia
of volcanic rocks, upheaved so far as seen; 4th. The coarse-grained granitic sandstone of the
Cajon and Cottonwood Creek.

I would include in the first group the soft strata on the east base of the Sierra Nevada, near
Taheechaypah Pass ; the strata in the Cañada de las Uvas, just beyond the summit; those near
the entrance to Williamson's Pass, and in its vicinity ; and the strata bordering the Mojave,

along the lower parts of its course. In the second group we may include the compact sand-
stones of the valley of Lake Elizabeth, supposed to be horizontal, and the upraised strata in the
eastern part of the Canada de las Uvas, containing the fossil stems. It is possible, also, that
the nearly horizontal strata underlying the superficial accumulations of the slope of the Basin,
at the entrance to the Tejon Pass, have similar lithological characters. I include in the third
group the outcrops of breccia and conglomerate on the margin of the Basin, north of Lake
Elizabeth, and at the entrance to Williamson's Pass. It is probable that strata similar to these
will be found at other points. These divisions are, of course, merely temporary and for conve-
nience of description.

It is most probable that the strata of the first group will be found to be of the age of the
Pliocene or recent Tertiary. They are more recent than the other groups, the age of which can-
not be closely determined, although probably Miocene, or Eocene, or both.

The outcrops along the northern base of the Bernardino Sierra, including those of the Cafiada
de las Uvas, have an average elevation of 3,500 feet above the sea ; that near Taheechaypah
Pass must be nearly 4,000, and those along the Mojave from 1,100 to 2,600 feet.

We may conclude that the greater part of the surface of the southern part of the Basin is
underlaid by the extension of these strata under the more recent accumulations which form the
slopes. This is indicated not only by the outerops along the Bernardino Sierra, but by those of
the Mojave River, and around the detached ridges between the Mojave and the Sierra Nevada.
It is probable that the strata of the Cajon Pass and its vicinity (those of the fourth group) are
in a great measure local and do not extend far from the mountains. The materials do not
àppear to have been transported from a distance, or to have been long agitated together under
water. The rock probably accumulated in the vicinity of, or around, a coast of granitic rock,
Which was abraded with great rapidity.

24 F

186 GEOLOGY.

POST-PLIOCENE DEPOSITS OF MONTEREY, SAN PEDRO, AND SAN DIEGO.

Evidences of a comparatively recent or Post-Tertiary elevation of the California coast are
found at various points from San Francisco south to San Diego. At San Pedro, near the mouth
of the Los Angeles River, a low bluff, or bank, about thirty feet high, consists of beach-sand
and shingle, mingled with shells, similar to those now living in the waters of the Pacific.
Accumulations of the same kind are also found at Santa Barbara and San Diego.

The bank at San Pedro is composed, at the base, of coarse, brown sea-sand, interstratified with
fragments of shells; but the upper portions are formed of coarser materials, in two or three
layers, from four to six feet thick. The upper layer is of soil and sand, charged with fragments
of Pecten ; below this, a thick stratum of sand is filled with shells and a layer of fragments of
a calcareous rock, or soft limestone, perforated in every direction by boring mollusks. Beach-
shingle and sand, with shells, are found below. These fossils were all remarkably well pre-
served ; but had evidently been subjected to much wearing upon a beach, as the fragments were
very abundant, and many of the shells were broken.

The following species were obtained: Tellina Pedroana, Venerupis cycladiformis, Saxicava
abrupta, Petricola Pedroana, Schizotherus Nuttalli, Mytilus Pedroanus, Penitella speleum,
Fissurella crenulata, Nassa interstriata, N. Pedroana, Strephona Pedroana, Littorina Pe-
droana. These were all determined and described by Mr. Conrad, who observes in his
letter that ‘‘the shells are generally those which live in the adjacent waters, and indicate
little, if any, change of temperature since their deposition. The littoral character of this form-
ation is very evident. Water-worn shells and fragments show the action of the surf, whilst
entire specimens of bivalves, and Px oladide, and Saxicave, remaining undisturbed in their self-
excavated domicils, exhibit the same disposition of marine shells that is familiar to the observer
on all sandy and argillaceous shores. "They burrow in clay, mud, or sand, beyond the ordinary
action of the surf; whilst some are scooped out by the tempest-driven surge, and others preyed
upon by fishes and marine animals of various kinds, and are thus broken up and deposited
among the living species.’

The action of the surf at the base of this bank has liberated great numbers of the fossils, and
they are to be found strewed along the beach, mingled with shells recently cast up by the waves.

A tooth of the mammoth was also obtained from this bank by a brother of Captain Ord, of

TOOTH OF THE MAMMOTH, (lower molar, one-third natural size.)

the United States Coast Survey. It is a lower molar, weighing eight pounds, and twelve inches
~ long. It has a grinding surface five and a half inches long, which exposes the ends of eight

RECENT ELEVATION OF THE COAST. | 187

e

plates. This surface is perfectly smooth and polished, and looks as if it had been used for
mastication but recently. It is reported that more teeth and a portion of the skeleton have
been found several miles in the interior, towards Los Angeles.

The shells at Santa Barbara are found in a similar bank, but only one species was obtained—
a large Crepidula, (C. princeps, Conrad.) Plate VI, figs. 52 and 52a. This, in color and
general appearance, is like the fossils from San Pedro, but it is a very large species and a
beautiful fossil. :

The evidences of a recent elevation are very striking at Monterey, where beach accumulations
may be seen resting upon the water-worn surfaces of the soft Tertiary rocks at the quarries, a
long distance from the bay and many feet above it. The shingle contains pebbles or rounded
masses of the rocks below, and the surfaces of the latter are not only rounded and worn into hollows
and grooves, but are perforated by boring shells. The cavities made by the shells still remain,
and are filled up with sea sand. Beach-shingle was also found on the top of the hill, formed
by the beds of infusoria. "This includes pebbles of granite (probably broken from Point Pinos
or a part of that range) and masses of the underlying silicious beds, all of them rounded and
water-worn. One of these masses, softer than the others, had been perforated by a PAolas. This
beach formation is now about 300 feet above the bay, and shows a very recent elevation. Bones
of Cetaceans are said to be found on the opposite shore of the bay, about ten miles inland from
Santa Cruz. They are reported also from many other points along the coast, but high above
the sea level. According to Rev. Walter Colton,! they are found near Livermore's rancho, on
the top of a mountain overlooking the valley of the San Joaquin.

The general appearance of the coast favors the conclusion of a recent upheaval, for the high
hills and mountains are almost everwhere flanked by a slope, which, by its uniform acclivity,
reminds one of an ocean beach. It is believed that careful examination will show the existence
of ancient beach-lines at the upper margin of these slopes. The occurrence of beach-shingle
overlaying the bituminous strata northwest of Los Angeles has been mentioned; similar
accumulations were afterwards noticed in other places. It is interesting to observe,in this
connexion, that a depression of the land in the vicinity of Los Angeles, to the extent of 1,000 feet,
would cause the submergence of a wide area, and carry the shore-line many miles inland, so
that the bend of the coast would conform to the base of the mountains as far east asthe mountain
of San Bernardino. With the exception of a slight and isolated elevation, which forms the
headland of the open bay of San Pedro, and a range of low hills between San Bernardino and
the coast, there is no elevation of any consequence between the present beach and the base of
the mountains; so that a depression to the extent indicated would submerge the whole slope.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE TERTIARY FORMATIONS.

We see. by the foregoing description that the principal localities which have been identified
as Tertiary are separated by wide intervals along the line of the survey, and that they present
a diversity in their lithological characters and organic remains. The sandstone formation of
San Francisco, Benicia, and the vicinity, having been previously described in Chapter XII, has
not been considered in this general view of the Tertiary deposits. It forms another and a
distinct group, lithologically, from those that have been described.

The lithological differences between the strata of the different localities are such that it would

! Three years in California ; p. 385.

188 GEOLOGY.

be difficult, if not impossible, to trace the connexion of the formations without the aid of fossils.
Even the fossils have very different aspects, and present a different grouping of species at each
locality. The difference in mineral characters, which apparently is so great, is, no doubt, in
part due to the limited examinations which have been made; and it is probable that more
extended explorations will show that each well-marked group of strata has a wide extent along
the coast. The distances between the localities described, and the different positions of the strata
relatively to the great lines of elevation about which they were deposited, are also sufficient to
lead us to expect the strata, even of the same age, to be very different in their appearance.
The Miocene strata of Ocoya Creek are about eighty miles removed from those of San Fer-
nado—supposed to be also Miocene—and a range of mountains, with the lowest passes over
three thousand feet in elevation, extends between them. One series of strata is at the eastern
base of the Sierra Nevada, the other at the southern base of the Bernardino Sierra. The out-
crops at San Fernando are one hundred and fosty miles distant from those of San Diego, and
those of San Diego fifty miles or more from the fossiliferous strata of Carrizo Creek, and on the
opposite side of the high Peninsula mountains. So, also, the strata of the Great Basin are
separated from the other localities by mountains on all sides.

Although we fail to trace a resemblance between the strata of the same age over the whole
extent of the region which has been considered, it is believed that the strata which are developed
at distant points along the same base of either of the great mountain ranges have a general
similarity of mineral contents; in other words, the great lithological differences of the strata
are coincident with the great variations in the relief of the surface, and are also found on the
opposite sides of the same chain of mountains.

There is little doubt that formations of the age of those of Ocoya Creek, and bearing a general
resemblance to them in mineral composition, extend along the whole western base of the Sierra
Nevada, although interrupted at many points, or removed by denudation and the action of
rivers. The rounded hills passed on the 21st of July, and described in the Itinerary, are be-
lieved to correspond in age with those of Ocoya Creek. So, also, thick horizontal strata at
Mokelumne hill, composed, in great part, of volcanic ashes and pumice ; and strata found at
several points further north are probably of the same period. The deposits of Chico Creek,
represented by Miocene fossils, are, perhaps, a continuation of the same series, but may be, and
probably are, older, or lower in the group than those of Ocoya Creek. Dr. Trask has noted
the occurrence of marine fossils at Willow Springs and other points in the Sacramento Valley.

The deposit at Volcano Ridge, so far as it is represented by the specimens in hand, does not
appear to be of the same series, but is, apparently, older.

The Miocene deposits are not confined to the base of the Sierra Nevada, but are found on the
opposite side of the valley at the base, or forming the foot-hills, of the Coast Mountains.
They were, also, found at the extreme southern end of the Tulare Valley, resting upon the
upturned edges of the older sandstone (probably Eocene) near San Amédio.

That these are Miocene, or more recent, is not only indicated by their unconformity with the
supposed Eocene strata, but by fossils of the genera Meretrix and Stramonita, found near the
foot-hills. Mr. Conrad regards these as Miocene, and describes them as Meretrix Tularana and
Stramonita petrosa. A fine specimen of the genus Arca, described as Arca microdonta, (Plate
III., fig. 29,) was obtained from the hills of the Coast Mountains near the Tulares. This is
at as Miocene by Mr. Conrad, who states that it has some resemblance to A. arata, Say,
of the Maryland Miocene.

The relation of these Miocene deposits to the recent drift, or the auriferous drift, of the slope

OBSERVATIONS ON THE TERTIARY DEPOSITS. 189

of the Sierra Nevada is obscure for want of sufficient explorations and examination. These more
modern accumulations attain such a great development, and are frequently of such fine mate-
rials, including, also, volcanic sand and ash, fragments of pumice, and the like, that they
might easily be mistaken as the equivalents of the Ocoya Creek series. Whether the horizontal
strata, seen near the Tuolumne, at Fort Miller under the basalt, at Bear Creek, (see Section 2,
Sheet I,) and at the crossing of the Chowchillas, can be referred to the Ocoya Creek series, or
are much more recent, can only be determined by fossils or further exploration, so as to trace
the continuity. The strata in the vicinity of the Tuolumne and the Merced rivers, forming the
flat-topped hills, were, at the time of their examination, supposed to be the equivalents of the
sandstone strata of the Coast Mountains on the opposite side of the valley.

The Miocene strata of San Diego are, without much doubt, extended northwards along the
whole slope of the Peninsula Sierra, and connect with those which appear in outcrops at San
Fernando and other places. The strata of all this slope may be regarded as one group, and are
believed to have a general similarity of lithological characters and fossils.

À great difference is, however, presented between the strata of San Diego ud those on the
opposite side of the mountains, although they are probably synchronous in origin. The high
Peninsula Mountains were, doubtless, a barrier between the seas at the time of the deposition of
the strata, as, at the present day, they are between the waters of the Gulf and the Pacific.
There is also a remarkable difference in the appearance of the fossils from the east and west sides
ofthe chain. While on the Pacific side we find a variety of genera and species, both of uni-
valves and bivalves, the deposit on the eastern, or Gulf side, consists of an enormous bed almost
wholly formed of Ostracea and Pectens. Although an entire separation of the Miocene seas is
indicated, it is probable that they were connected, during a part, at least, of the Tertiary
period, through the pass of San Bernardino; Lower, or Old California, being thus left as an
island, which it was formerly supposed to be. A depression of only 2,808 feet would be suffi-
cient to again unite the head of the Gulf with the Pacific, and thus form an island of the
Peninsula.

The San Francisco sandstone is probably co-extensive with the Coast Mountains north and
south—south as far as the Bernardino Sierra, and north even into Oregon and Washington
Territories. There is much reason to believe that the coal beds of Bellingham Bay and Puget’s
Sound occur in this series of strata. A block of sandstone from the coal strata of the former
place is nearly identical in its mineral constitution and appearance with that of the vicinity of
San Francisco. It contains two large Pectens and masses of coal.’

The southern extension of the great deposits of microscopic, silicious organisms at Monterey
is shown by the specimen from the vicinity of San Luis Obispo, and by the rolled silicious masses
charged with bitumen , and of undoubted infusorial origin, which are cast up by the surf on the
shores of San Pedro.

Although the observations which have been made are comparatively limited—if we compare
them with the great extent of surface of California—they are sufficient to show that the Tertiary
attains an enormous development on the Pacific coast ; and that, in fact, a large part of the area
of the State is either occupied by, or underlaid by, strata of that period. They probably con-
stitute the principal part of the ranges of the Coast Mountains, where they attain their greatest
development and thickness. It is not yet possible to form a reliable estimate of the thickness of
the whole series of strata, but exposures at several points are not less than 2,500 or 3,000 feet.

A descriptive section of the coal-bearing strata is given in Chapter XIX.

as o EIS SOC TOM eee DIRE STINET

CHAPTER XIV.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE TULARE VALLEY.

DESERT-LIKE ASPECT OF THE TULARE PLAINS.—SLOPES NEAR THE MOUNTAINS.—THE VALLEY DISTINCT FROM THE VALLEY OF THE SAN
JOAQUIN.— OF THE VALLEY.—ASPECT OF THE COAST MOUNTAINS—SURFACE AND SOIL OF THE VALLEY.—CLAY SOIL—ÄLLU-
vIUM.—MiIRY SOIL BETWEEN KING'S RIVER AND THE FOUR CREEKS.—GRAVELLY SLOPES AROUND THE MOUNTAINS—ÜLAY OR ALLUVIAL
SOIL OF THE LOWER PART OF THE VALLEY UNDERMINED BY BURROWING ANIMALS.—FRESH-WATER SHELLS.—COTTON-WOOD TREES—
TULE.—VEGETATION AT THE MOUTHS OF THE RIVERS.—QUANTITY OF WATER IN THE LAKES.—COMMUNICATION WITH THE SAN JOA-
QUIN.—SALINE INCRUSTATION.— FORMER SUBMERGENCE OF THE VALLEY.— GREAT RAPIDITY. OF EVAPORATION.— EXPERIMENT TO
DETERMINE THE AMOUNT.—RESEMBLANCE BETWEEN THE TULARE VALLEY AND THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO DESERT.

It is difficult to conceive of the great extent and desert-like character of the Tulare Valley
without having travelled for days over its surface, beyond the sight of trees or green grass. It
appears to be almost a perfect plain, but slopes gently away from its bordering mountain ranges,
the descent becoming more gradual and imperceptible as the distance from the mountains is
increased. Although this valley is a portion of the great longitudinal valley of California,
occupied by the San Joaquin and the Sacramento rivers, it is, in a measure, isolated from the
latter, and has its own system of streams and lakes that do not, at all times, communicate
with the San Joaquin. We may, therefore, regard and describe it as a basin-shaped depres-
sion, distinct and separate from the Valley of the San Joaquin, although, in respect to the
general relief of the surface, it is merely a continuation of it. The San Joaquin, when it
descends the slope from the mountains, bends to the north until it meets the water of the
Sacramento, but the rivers south of the San Joaquin, and which, like it, rise in the Sierra
Nevada, turn southward, and are not its tributaries. The slightly elevated ground between
the San Joaquin and the lower surface southward may, then, be regarded as the northern
boundary or margin of the Tulare Valley. Its length from the San Joaquin River (latitude 37°)
on the north, to the high range of the Tejon Mountains on the south, is about 150 miles. Its
breadth, or the distance between the Sierra and the Coast Mountains near latitude 37°, is about
70 miles. Towards the south it becomes narrower, but may be said to have an average breadth '
of50 miles. Its area is thus about 7,500 square miles.

When standing on the eastern side of the valley, near the hills at the base of the Sierra
Nevada, the Coast Mountains are just perceptible in the distance; but the distinctness with
which they can be seen varies greatly with the purity of the air. They have a barren aspect;
and do not appear to have any verdure.

Surface and soil of the Valley.—South of the banks of the San Joaquin the character of the
soil changes from the loose, gravelly, granitic debris, and becomes more compact and ar gilla-
ceous. This change is most apparent at King’s River, where the character of the substratum of
the plain is visible in the banks of the stream. A large amount of clay enters into its composi-
tion, and it has a decidedly alluvial appearance, being much finer and more argillaceous than
the banks of the streams that enter the San Joaquin. >

Between King's River and the Four Creeks the soil consists almost wholly of clay, and 115

SOIL OF THE TULARE PLAINS—TULARE LAKES. 191

miry nature during the wet season has been noticed. (Chapter IIT.) South of the Four Creeks:
the portions of the valley near the foot hills have a gravelly and sandy surface, apparently
formed by the wash from the adjoining high grounds. The gravelly character is observable at
the slopes of the Tejon and the vicinity of the ridges of the Cañada de las Uvas, and it is probable
that the valley is surrounded by a belt of coarse soil, flanking the mountains. Its central por-
tions have a finer and a more clayey character, which naturally results from the decrease in the
velocity and transporting power of the streams as they pass from the high slopes near the
mountains to those of a more gentle inclination lower down. All the central parts of the valley
have an alluvial aspect, and at the time of my visit, in August, the soil was extremely light
and dusty. It was also completely undermined in all directions by thousands of burrowing
animals, (rabbits and squirrels,) so that the feet of my mule were continually breaking through,
rendering it extremely difficult to proceed, and dangerous to travel faster than a walk. The
animals often sank suddenly up to their shoulders in these places.

The clay has a gray or bluish-gray color, and seems to have been deposited by water; this is
not only indicated by its appearance and chemical constitution, but by the remains of water-
courses or sloughs, that, although then perfectly dry, had evidently been once filled with
water. Numerous fresh water shells, especially those of the genus Planorbis, common in fresh
water lakes, are spread over large areas of the surface many miles from any trace of water, and
nearer to the foot-hills of the mountains than any overflows from the lakes in the lowest part of
this valley now extend. |

In some of the lower parts of the valley, there are groves of cotton-wood trees that have attained
their full size, but do not appear to flourish. They are found on the borders of some of the
ditches or dry water-courses, and around shallow, basin-shaped depressions, that had evidently
been once occupied by water, but which were then entirely dry. These trees were rapidly
decaying and breaking down, and it appeared as if the conditions under which they had attained
their growth had changed, and that they were then suffering for want of sufficient water at
their roots, :

It is probable that during unusually wet seasons this portion of the valley is overflowed ; but
I believe the facts warrant the conclusion that a gradual dessication of the whole valley is in
progress.

Tulare Lakes.—'The lower portion of the broad valley is occupied by a chain of shallow lakes,
that are connected together by shallow sloughs or canals. "These sheets of water are of con-
` siderable extent, but they cover only a small part of the valley. It appears that there are three
principal lakes, called Tulare, Buena Vista, and Kern Lake. The Indian names are said to be
Tache, Clin-tache, Cholam, and To-lum-ne. Tulare Lake is the largest, and is the most northern.
of the series. It is west of King’s River and the Four Creeks, whose waters it receives. The
banks of this lake and of the others are low and marshy, and in most places are covered with a
dense growth of rank grass and tule.! This forms a wide green margin about a portion of the
principal lake, and the growth is so luxuriant and the ground so soft that it is almost impossible
to reach the water. The width of this belt of green tule is variable. I am informed by
Lieutenant Williamson, who has visited the northern end of the lake, that in some places it is
over three miles. The plant grows partly in the water, but only where it is shallow, and in

' Tu-le is the Mexican name of the great rush, Scirpus lacustris, of the lakes and swamps. It is used by the Indians to

mak ; 7 T ex
am e mats, and also for forming rafts, with which they take heavy loads across the rivers. For this purpose it is gathered,

quantities, and tied in thick bundles. Its buoyancy is due to the air contained in the cellular tissue.

192 NT GEOLOGY.

this respect resembles the ordinary rushes.and flags of the New England States. It is like our
large bulrushes in its form, but grows to an enormous size, attaining a height of from 8 to 15
feet, and sometimes a diameter of three-quarters of an inch. This plant occupies the ground to
the exclusion of other forms of vegetation; there are no shrubs or trees to overshadow it, and it
constitutes a remarkable feature of the vegetable physiognomy of California.

The rivers tributary to the lakes enter by numerous mouths ; they, in fact, form broad deltas,
that are covered with vegetation. The character of the vegetation along the Four Creeks has
been described ; it extends along the whole course of the stream and its sloughs, but it is prob-
able that the trees which grow in such thick groves near the mountains become less numerous,
and finally disappear in the lower and more marshy portions of the course of the river.

The supply of water to these lakes must be very great; King's River and Posuncula River are
large streams, and do not become exhausted in the dryest seasons. During the early part of the
summer, or when the snows in the Sierra Nevada commence to melt rapidly, they convey
enormous quantities of water, and the level of the lakes is raised. This constant variation in
the quantity of water carried to the lakes, and the changes from the wet to the dry season, have
the effect to keep the level of the water continually changing. This is one of the great pecu-
liarities of the lakes, and the shallowness of their beds, and the low, shelving form of their
shores, causes an unusual addition of water to become immediately evident by the wide-spread
submergence of the surrounding country.

These inundations are most extensive in the rainy season. Plains that have been scorched
and cracked by the long drought of summer are overflowed, and the sun-baked soil absorbs
enormous quantities of water. The lakes become greatly increased in length and breadth, and
cover portions of the plains that, a short time before, had all the characteristics of a desert. At
these periods of high water, the lakes sometimes communicate with the San Joaquin River by a
slough or channel at the northern extremity of the Tulare Lake. This slough is like a canal,
and is very deep near the San Joaquin, but eight or ten miles from this river it divides up into
numerous channels, which become intricate and ramified as they enter the lake. It is said that
when the level of the river is greatly raised by freshets it overflows its banks, and the water
passes to the lakes by this slough. At seasons of low water, all communication between the
river and lake is prevented by a bar at the mouth of the slough. In the dry season this slough
may be crossed without finding water; and it has been customary to drive cattle across near the
end of the lake.

When we were encamped at Fort Miller, (July, 1853,) a party of rangers, who had killed the
notorious bandit, Joaquin, arrived, and had been obliged to swim the slough, and one of the
prisoners was drowned.

We know but little of the country west of the Tulare Lake, between it and the mountains, OF
of the plains lying between this lake and the smaller lakes at the south. At the time I crossed
over to the western portion of the valley, no water was found until I came within a few miles of
one of the outlying ridges of the western range. Here progress was stopped by a narrow sheet
of water, or a marsh, in which the water was warm, muddy, and. slightly saline. It was
extremely offensive to the taste, and the shores were soft and miry, and no vegetation, other than
a few dried weeds, could be found. No current could be detected in this pool, but it is probable
that it is a portion of the slough which connects the lakes together. unde

Thick masses of saline incrustations were found about the shores, at the roots of tufts of dried
“ bunch-grass," where evaporation had been most persistent and rapid. This incrustation 1$

di

GRADUAL DESSICATION OF THE VALLEY. 193

found to consist of carbonate of soda, sulphate of soda, sulphates of lime and magnesia, in traces,
and chloride of sodium or common salt. (See specimen No. 256 of the collection.)

The two lakes—Buena Vista and Kern—are at the southern extremity of the valley ; they
are visible from the ridges of the Tejon Pass and the Cañada de las Uvas. They are compara-
tively small in extent, but their area is not known. Their positions have been well determined
by the Survey, and they are, for the first time, correctly laid down upon a map.!

There does not appear to be much vegetation about these small lakes ; itis probable that they
are liable to great changes of area, so great, that the conditions of moisture are not favorable to
organic growth. Kern Lake was found, by barometrical observation, to be at an elevation ot
398 feet above the sea.

Evidences of a former submergence of the Valley.—From the facts that have been stated in
regard to this valley, it becomes evident that at a former period the lakes were more extensive ;
and that, in fact, the greater part of the valley was submerged by a broad lake.

The broad, alluvial tracts of clay soil along King’s River and the Four Creeks, and the exten-
sive plains of similar alluvial character, far from any water-courses, and above the reach of
modern inundations, may be regarded as having a lacustrine origin. The limits of this alluvial
formation may be considered as marking the former area or extension of the lake. I have taken
the observations made at distant points, and from them drawn the limits of the alluvium on the
Geological Map, and colored it to cortes with the alluvium of the delta of the Sacramento
and San Joaquin.

All the facts indicate that this wide area was formerly covered with fresh water, and that it

` has been gradually drying up. Although there may have been extraordinary floods, at intervals,

which caused the lakes to extend nearly to their ancient limits, the prevailing tendency has
been to a complete dessication of the region.

It is not easy to give a definite and precise explanation of the cause of this gradual dessica-
tion. It is probable that it is partly due to a change of level, whereby the valley was drained.
It is also probable that depositions of sediment by the San Joaquin, and other streams, have
raised the level of that end of the valley near the San Joaquin, so as to shut off the communica-
tion with this river. It is very possible that the principal part of its water was formerly
delivered to the lakes.

Rapidity of evaporation from the surface of the lakes.— Whatever cause may be assigned for
the change in the condition of this valley, the rapidity of evaporation from the surface of the
water in that region should not be overlooked in the attempt to solve the problem. The amount
of water that is taken up by the winds in that valley is astonishing. We have seen that during
the dry season the lakes have no outlet, and that they are constantly receiving great quantities
of water from the rivers; the evaporation from their surfaces must then be equal to, if not
greater than, the supply. The conditions under which these lakes are situated could scarcely
be more favorable for this result. The strong winds that rush inland from the Pacific during
the day, pass over the broad, heated plains, and the numerous ranges of the Coast M u tair
before they reach the valley. They thus part with the greater portion of their moi before
e pour in upon at Tulares. The shores of the ies Deine, pa and shelving, and without

no racio £r. TW these Be US Sem. | they : E a1. jr A and absorb
f : HUS y

the water with nd rapidity. The rapidity cad the 'vaporat tion. is increased by the tem-

pie un alo, theaco SEE g Ge a aso | a 3

25 ۳

77۳۳9

194 GEOLOGY.

perature of the water, which is fully exposed in the shallow lakes to the rays of an unclouded
sun, and becomes much heated.

The parching effect produced by these winds, and the evident rapidity of evaporation of any
water exposed to their action, induced me to make an experiment to determine, if possible, the
amount of water taken up each day. This experiment was made at the depot camp, on Ocoya
Creek, in the following manner: A large sheet-iron pan, such as is used by the miners for
““prospecting,”” and which corresponds very nearly in size and shape with an ordinary milk-pan,
was placed upon a firm stand about two feet above the surface of the ground. This pan was
nearly filled with water and a thermometer and small ivory scale were immersed in it. The
whole was in a situation favorably exposed to the action of the winds, and was protected from
the direct rays of the sun by a shed, covered with brush and leaves. The shade prevented the
sun from unduly heating the water by acting on the bottom and sides of the pan. The amount
of evaporation was noted from time to time by the height of the water on the scale. "The results
are given in the annexed table.

TABLE SHOWING THE AMOUNT OF DAILY EVAPORATION AT OCOYA CREEK, CALIFORNIA.

Date. Time. Ther. | Ther. Quantity Daily Remarks—winds, &c.
air. water. | evaporated. | evaporation.
1853. Inches.
August 26 | Sunrise ....| 65° 62°
FAA
2 p. m....] 1009 809 Ys
6 p.m 78° Ys is Wind NW. and steady from 11 a. m. till sunset.
.“s 27 | Sunrise ....| 609 580
9a.m....| 85° 709 ay Wind rising, and from the SW.
12.70 ما مایق‎ 969 789
2 p.m....| 1009 820 Xl Wind strong, and from NW.
4 p.m....| 1009 80° *
5.30 p. m..| 969 789 a Š
e 28| 6a.m....| 609 560
18:80... 95° 789 A Wind strong since 11 a. m.
4. 30 p. m m as
6 p.m x se Wind ceased at 6.
" 29] €6a.m....| 029 509
12.30 p. m..| 869 74° di Wind rising at 9 a. m.
EPDM... Y 750 ts 3

From this table it will be seen that the observations were continued for four days, and that
the mean daily evaporation was one-quarter of an inch. This was shown not only by the sam
of the daily or hourly results, but by the total loss in the four days as indicated on the scale at
the close of the experiment. This result was below my anticipations, and yet when the depth
of evaporation is multiplied by the superficial area, the quantity appears enormous. The
rapidity of the evaporation was doubtless retarded by impurities in the water, which was taken
from the creek, and soon deposited a slight sediment, and on the third day was covered with 4
thin film or pellicle, probably of light dust, which must have greatly protected the water from
the action of the air.

RATE OF THE EVAPORATION OF WATER FROM THE TULARE LAKES. 195

It will be observed that the evaporation ceased at night. The temperature of the air was
always rapidly reduced after sunset, but there was no dew. As these low, night temperatures
did not influence the result, we may take the mean of the day temperatures both for the air and
the water at the time of observation, subject to the slight error caused by the deficiency of obser-
vations on the 26th and 28th, and obtain approximately the temperature conditions of the air
and water for that amount of evaporation. These results are, for the air 83°.9, for the water
119.5; time, 46 hours. Height of barometer 29.30.

Although at the time of these experiments I regarded the air as exceedingly dry, I have since
been forced to the conclusion that its condition was not the most favorable to great and rapid
absorption of water. The crests of the ranges of the Coast Mountains are not greatly elevated
in that region, being, probably, less than four thousand feet, and during the day they are much
heated by the sun ; they do not, therefore, cause the precipitation of all the moisture which the
air brings with it from the sea, and its thorough desiccation is not accomplished. A great part
of its moisture is necessarily retained, and a capacity for the absorption of more is given by the
elevation of temperature which it suffers among the interior ranges and valleys of the coast, and
finally upon the broad and heated plain. Tt is well to consider these conditions in connexion
with the experimental results, and if the air is thus highly charged with moisture, the quantity
taken up must be regarded as very large. At the rate of one-quarter of an inch a day, seven
inches and a half in depth would be removed in thirty days, or seven feet, seven and a quarter
inches in one year. According to Dr. G. Buist, the amount of evaporation from the surface of
water at Aden, on the Indian Ocean, ‘‘is about eight feet for the year.’’! The basis of this state-
ment is not given, but it is interesting to notice that the amount agrees with my experimental
result.

If we regard the experimental result as a fair measure of the evaporation from the lakes, we
may readily calculate the amount of water taken from them during a month or year. We
have 36 cubic inches of water for the daily evaporation from one square foot of surface, and
consequently 522929.5 cubic feet from every square mile. This equals 16210.8 tons, or
4,052,703 gallons—a quantity of which we can scarcely form an adequate conception, and yet
it is for one day only. If we measure the amount of evaporation in depth, and assume that
the quantity evaporated is equal during each month in the year, we have, as before observed,
Seven feet seven inches and one-quarter for the yearly evaporation. The conditions which I
have detailed do not, however, exist throughout the year. In the rainy months the evaporation
is much reduced, or perhaps it almost ceases. It is almost certain, however, that the experi-
ment does not show the full amount of evaporation for the summer ; it is undoubtedly much
greater, and the results can only be regarded as approximate. They ar», however, important,
and derive greater interest from the fact that few experiments of the kind have been made, and
because the climatic conditions of that region are so peculiar.*

Resemblance between the Tulare Valley and the Colorado Desert.—It will be seen, by comparing
this description of the Tulare Valley with that given of the Colorado Desert, that the valleys re-
semble each other in their important characteristics. It is probable that their geological history is
Similar ; but, although of the same age geologically, the changes in the Desert Valley have
been most rapid, and its complete dessication has long since been accomplished. This difference

' Trans, Bombay Geographical Society, vol. ix, 1849-50, p. 39. TER"
* The results of the experiment upon the amount of evaporation were communicated in a paper n dure rn
Institute, at Washington, March 4, 1856, and subsequently published in the American Journal of Science, May, 1856.

196 GEOLOGY.

of their present condition is attributable to the configuration of the regions. East of the Tulare
Valley we find a lofty chain of snowy ranges, which condense the moisture in the winds from
the Pacific on their summits, and send numerous streams into the valley for its irrigation. If
there was a similar high range east of the Desert, it is probable that sufficient water would be,
in like manner, condensed on its summit, to form streams that would irrigate the Desert, as the
Tulares are now watered by the streams from the Sierra Nevada.

BE:
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J.S. P R.R. EXP. & SURVEYS, CAL. GEOLOGY, MAP ۰

Gy, 777 7
KEA P A TA

s 2 i, 77
m Granite and Metamorphic
E] Porphyry and Greenstane
| S| Limestone, Metamo

Oplifted Sandstone “Sie
probably Eocene Er

| Draft - Detritus

San Amedio Pass

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GEOLOGICAL MAP
Crap. OF THE

TEJON PASS & CANADA DE. LAS UVAS

AND THE VICINITY. EA.

INCLUDING rae PASS oF ov ۱

SAN FRANCISQUITO & WILLIAMSONS ` q A ER راهن‎

Wiss NON

PASS. er SINE, | i
T Y 2 / - Y NO SR
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7

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1 iln Suh AD
一 一 一 “Too
1 T. Sinclar 5 lith, Phil?
*

—— CHAPTER XV.

GEOLOGY OF THE TEJON PASS AND CANADA DE LAS UVAS—SECTION
OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.

SIERRA NEVADA AT THE TEJON.— BOUNDARIES OF THE TEJON.—-TEJON PASS AND CANADA DE LAS UVAS.—EOLOGICAL MAP AND SECTIONS,—
SECTION OF THE SIERRA NEVADA AT THE TEJON.—ROCKS OF THE WESTERN RIDGE.—PLANES OF STRUCTURE OR LAMINATION.—GRANITIO
OUTCROPS IN THE PLAIN.—SECTION AT THE TEJON RAYINE.—W HITE LIMESTONE.—ROCKS AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE pass.—Drirt
DEPOSITS.—OAK TREES.—ROCK AT THE SUMMIT AND BEYOND.—QUARTZ ROCK.—WHITE CRYSTALLINE LIMESTONE AND QUARTZ ROCK.—
PROBABLE SEDIMENTARY ORIGIN.—PLICATIONS OR FOLDING OF THE STRATA.—PROBABLE CARBONIFEROUS AGE.— GENERAL TREND OF THE
ROCKS.—TERTIARY AND POST TERTIARY DEPOSITS.—DRIFT OF THE VALLEY OF THE PASS.—SECTION AT THE CANADA DE LAS UVAS —
OBSERVATIONS ON THE SECTION; ITS DIRECTION.— SIMILARITY OF THE ROCKS TO THOSE OF THE TEJON,—W HITE CRYSTALLINE LIMESTONE
IN RIDGES.—GRANITE NEAR CASTECA LAKE.—LIMESTONE WITH TRAP DYKES AND IRON ORE.—PROBABLE SYNCHRONISM OF THE LIMESTONE
WITH THAT OF THE TEJON.—VOLCANIC ROCKS AND SANDSTONE.—RELATIONS OF THE VALLEY OF THE PASS TO THE BERNARDINO SIERRA
AND THE SLOPE OF THE GREAT BASIN.

The Sierra Nevada at the southern part of the Tulare Valley ceases to be a range of snowy
heights, and is broken into a series of ridges, not exceeding six or seven thousand feet in eleva-
tion. These ridges do not conform in their direction to that of the Sierra Nevada a short distance
to the northward, or at the head waters of Posuncula River, neither do they exhibit any well
defined parallelism among themselves, but extend in different directions, generally inclining
southwesterly, turning more and more to the west as they succeed southward, until their direc-
tion becomes nearly transverse to the general direction of the Sierra Nevada, and they unite
with the mountain ranges lying west of the Tulares ; commonly known as the prolongation of
the Coast Range or Coast Mountains. The angle which is thus formed by the intersection or
unison of the Sierra with the Coast Mountains is not abrupt nor well defined ; the ridges being
arranged so that they form a great curve around the head of the Tulare Valley, and partly
enclose the large space known as the Tejon. On the northeastern side of this plain-like area,
a projecting ridge of granite forms a partial boundary on the north, and extending nearly
parallel with the main ridge, it shuts off a portion of the Tejon from the broad plains of the
Tulare Valley. The portion of the Tejon thus bounded is a nearly quadrangular space with
mountains on three sides, it being open only towards the southwest. It was in this part of the
Tejon that the Depot Camp was located.

The Tejon Pass extends from the eastern side of this part of the Tejon, by the valley of the
Tejon Creek, over the crest of the Sierra to the Great Basin on the eastern side. Its general or
average direction is N. 60? W., S. 60° E. The Cañada de las Uvas is about twenty miles
further to the southwest, and may be said to turn the southern extremity of the Sierra Nevada.

The relative positions of these passes, and the direction of the mountains, may be seen by
reference to the small Geological Map prepared to accompany this chapter. The topography is
taken from the General Map of the Survey, and is on the same scale. The portion of the country
represented includes the southern end of the Sierra Nevada, from Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass south-
westerly to the Cañada de las Uvas; also, a portion of the Bernardino Sierra, from the Pass of

Amédio to Williamson's Pass. On the western side of the Sierra Nevada, the slope of the

198 GEOLOGY.

Tejon, and the plain of the Tulares, are represented as far as Kern Lake; and on the eastern,
the elevated plateau of the Great Basin to the Dry Lake.

The chapter is also accompanied by geological sections of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon
Pass, and at the Canada de las Uvas; also, a partial section from the Tejon to Tah-ee-chay-pah
Prairie. The profile lines of these sections are taken from the results of the Survey, the altitudes
having been determined by the barometer and level and the distances measured by the chain.

The observations upon the rocks were connected as far as possible with the different barome-
trical stations. As the line of survey, however, followed the lowest parts of the pass and for
a part of the distance along the bed of the brook, the examinations of the rocks were necessa-
rily at a little distance from the line. The surveyed line was not in all cases transverse to the
trend of the rocks, consequently it was not possible to represent them in their relative positions
on the profile of the Survey ; it being prepared from the observations along the crooked trail,
and consequently representing a much greater width of rock formations than exists, The
profile for the geological section has, therefore, been modified, and the principal points of
observation have been referred to straight lines drawn, as nearly as possible, transverse to the
predominant trends of the rocks. The line of section on the eastern side of the summit is
nearly transverse to the trends, but on the western side, along Tejon Creek, it is slightly oblique;
thus the rocks on that side are represented with a greater thickness or development than they
really have.

In consequence, also, of this modification in the direction or length of the profile, the distances
of the principal stations relatively to the Depot Camp do not correspond with those given on
the railroad profile of the Survey. A scale of miles is placed on the section and will serve to
give the distances with approximate correctness, but it cannot be used with accurate results in
measuring the thickness of the beds of rocks differing in character, for in some cases, as has
been stated, the trends are oblique to the line of the section, and in others it was impossible to
draw the line of demarcation between one modification of the gneissose metamorphic rocks and
another.

The section commences at the lowest point of the Tulare Valley, at Posuncula Lake, and
extends westwardly in a straight line to the Depot Camp, at the Tejon ; thence across the plain
to the entrance of the Pass, and through it to the Great Basin and the bed of the Dry Lake—
the lowest point in that vicinity. The regular descent and unbroken surface of the Tulare
slope cannot fail to be noticed ; and the difference of the altitude of its intersection with the
granitic ridges of the Sierra, compared with the altitude of a similar point in the Great Basin
on the other side, is well shown on the section. At station 11, the elevation of the upper edge
of the slope is about 1,900 feet above tide; and on the Great Basin side, at station 212, the
elevation of the slope is 3,700 feet. "This shows a difference of 1,800 feet ; but the difference
becomes greater if, instead of taking the elevation of the Tulare slope at station 11, it is taken
at the base of the outlying ridge of granite west of the Depot Camp.

The highest point of the section represents the lowest part of the divide, or ridge; of the
Sierra that could be found in that vicinity. This is 5,300 feet above tide; but on either side
the ridges rise from one to two thousand feet higher. An elevated point on the north was
estimated to be about 7,000 feet high.

In each of the sections illustrating the chapter, the rocks or formations are represented ”
they appeared above the trail or surface. As in most cases the dip was nearly vertical, this
representation is extended for a short distance above the line of observation, so that the char-

STRUCTURE OF THE METAMORPHIC ROCKS. 199

acter of the rocks could be made evident. "The representation is thus confined between the line
of profile and one drawn parallel with it, and a short distance above. This line is entirely
arbitrary, and is used merely to limit the extent of the signs used to denote the character of the
rocks. The elevation and general character of the outline of the ridges and summits is shown
by the lines sketched in above the line of profile.

SECTION OF THE SIERRA NEVADA AT THE TEJON PASS.

Granitic and metamorphic rocks.—The rocks now generally classed as metamorphic by geolo-
gists, and known as gneiss, mica slate, hornblende slate, and chlorite slate, are the predomi-
nating formations of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon. They present various appearances,
corresponding very nearly with those of rocks of the same name on the Atlantic slope of the
continent; but they vary so greatly in their apparent composition, and in the relative quantities
of the composing minerals, and they pass by such insensible gradations from one to the other,
that no well-defined line of demarcation can be found between them. The transition from these
rocks to compact granite and syenite is also gradual, and even these last named rocks present
traces of lamination, or structure, which closely connect them with the others.

In the following descriptions of these rocks, the use of terms, or names, indicating the
existence of separate formations, will therefore be avoided as much as possible, and, in general,
the rocks will be described by specifying the predominant minerals and their state of aggrega-
tion. This absence of well-defined lines of separation between the different varieties of the
rocks also prevents a representation of them by different colors on the map and sections. The
attempt has, however, been made to indicate the variations in the rock, and the extent of lami-
nation, by means of fine lines. "These representations are accompanied by short notes on the
lithological characters. In some cases where the names mica slate, hornblende slate, chlorite slate,
&c., are appropriate, and will not lead to a misapprehension of the true structure of the rocks,
they are retained. The rocks will be described in their order of succession from west to east—
from the most western outcrop at the margin of the Tulare plains to the last exposure at the
slope of the Great Basin on the east.

The following detailed description of the granitic rocks of the most western ridge will serve
to give an idea of the general structure of the rocks in the main part of the chain, and to ex-
plain terms which will frequently be used in succeeding descriptions:

Although the rocks of this ridge may be called granite, or granitic, they are not compact
and homogeneous, but consist in great part of hornblende, feldspar, and mica, arranged in long
parallel lines, so as to give a slaty character to the mass. The hornblende and feldspar are
found in long belts and in lenticular masses intercalated with mica, veins of feldspar, and
seams of quartz. These lines, or belts of different mineral composition, are exceedingly
numerous, and present frequent alternations with each other. There is not, however, any
well-defined line of separation between them; the transition from one to the other being
gradual, and almost imperceptible. Where the mica predominates, the surface decomposition
appears to have been the most rapid, and the portions of rock containing the harder minerals
are left standing in relief. A portion of the rock has a compact syenitic character, and, in
addition to the minerals already mentioned, contains lines of epidote and garnets. Many lines
of these minerals are often found in the width of a single inch ; they extend for long distances
in nearly parallel lines, and often have a local divergence or bulging, surrounding lenticular

200 GEOLOGY,

masses, or concentric layers of the same or other minerals. A good illustration of this structure
was carefully copied, and is represented of the natural size in the figure.

4 ¬ Epid
>... Garnet and quartz.
--. Hornblende and quartz.
Quartz.
一 Hornblende and quartz.
-~ Quartz, hornblende, mica, and feldspar.

SEGREGATION IN GRANITE.

The central portions of the mass were of epidote of a light green color, without any distinct
traces of crystallization. This was surrounded by a layer of garnet, intermingled with a small
portion of quartz and feldspar ; next a layer of hornblende and quartz in fine grains, the outer
part being more quartzose ; then a layer of the same minerals in a state of more perfect lamina-
tion; and, lasily, the same in a more coarsely crystalline condition, containing a portion of
mica. This alternation of minerals in various conditions of arrangement is repeated indefi- .
nitely, and an instance of a much more complex character might have been selected—one in.
which a greater number of lines of minerals could have been represented.

These peculiarities of structure are similar to those seen in the granitic and metamorphic
rocks of the Appalachians and in the azoic rocks of northern New York, where magnetic iron
frequently forms the centre of the nodular masses. By the extension or drawing out of such
lenticular aggregations the lines of minerals become nearly parallel, and numerous examples of
this were observed. We must look for an explanation of these phenomena to the action of
forces of crystallization, or polarity, when the rock was in a semi-Auid state; the stratiform
condition which results should not be regarded as proof of a sedimentary origin of the rock.
The rock under consideration is very probably a metamorphosed sediment, but the linear
arrangement of the minerals is not regarded as a satisfactory evidence of it. The structure
also appears to have taken place in the rock when it was so far fused as to obliterate the original
planes of stratification, if any existed. I therefore avoid the use of the words strata or stratifi-
cation in relation to these rocks, and designate the lines or layers of minerals as planes of
structure, or of lamination. "These planes, as developed in the granite ridge that has been
described, have a direction or trend nearly north and south; there are, however, several local
variations of 10° to 20° from this direction. Their dip is westward, at an angle of 75°, which
was found to vary at different points of observation. ۱

The rocks are cut and traversed by several granite and quartz veins running in various
directions transverse to the planes of structure. One narrow vein, composed principally ۷
سح‎ feldspar, was observed to conform to the direction of the lamination a
-C | part of its course, and then to pass diagonally for a short distance, cutting

E = across the planes of structure, and “ faulting” a narrow seam of quartz as
if it had been forcibly inrupted. The walls of this vein consist of feld-
spar, mica, and hornblende; the junction between them and the vem

ichs appears to be perfect, and does not present any indication of fracture.
In one of the small cafions of the ridge, a vein of ferruginous quartz about two feet thick 18

METAMORPHIC ROCKS—LIMESTONE—GRANITE. 201

exposed. It is much stained and rusted by the decomposition of iron pyrites, which probably
exists in an unaltered state a few feet below the surface.

Between the western ridge just described and the main ridge of the Sierra there are several
granitic outcrops of small extent rising at intervals from the plain, showing that it is under-
laid at only a slight depth by an uneven surface of granite. All the minor inequalities of the
surface have been filled, and the rocks buried from sight, by the drift deposits of sand, gravel,
and boulders that form the slope. These isolated outcrops conform in their general structure,
trend, and dip to the ridge already described. A more compact rock, a gray granite, with the
planes of structure obscurely developed, is also found. The outcrops of the rocks bordering the
valley on the north are much obscured by a covering of drift, or similar accumulations; but
wherever they were exposed to view a laminated structure was visible. They are nearly all
gneissose, and less hard than the dense hornblendic rock of a part of the western ridge.

Section at the Tejon Ravine.—A good natural section, about three miles in length, is formed
by the creek that flows from Tah-ee-chay-pah prairie to the Tejon. Its general direction is east
and west, which is nearly at right angles to the trends of the structural planes of the granitic
rocks. The general character of the rock may be understood by referring to the section, (Section 6,
Sheet IV.) The fine lines are intended to represent the lamination and structural characters. It
is, of course, impossible to make a perfect miniature representation of the rock, or to show the
numerous plications and curves that exist. Hundreds of lines are contained in a single foot of
rock ; while in the section over five thousand feet are represented in the space of a single inch.

The first part of the exposed rock at the entrance to the ravine contains a large proportion of
mica, and numerous feldspathic veins; in some places it is highly laminated, and much flexed
and contorted, presenting various dips at different distances below the summit. The foldings
and contortions are well developed on a small scale, and at the same time are subordinate parts
of more extended curves and plications. A short distance beyond station 52, and on the south
side of the ravine, there are indications of an outcrop of white crystalline limestone. Its
junction with the granitic rocks is covered by earth, so that its extent and position could not be
exactly determined ; but that it exists in considerable quantities is shown by the loose masses
that roll to the foot of the hill, and abound in the small cañons and ravines at its base. This
limestone will be found valuable for making caustic lime for buildings on the Military Reserve,
and other settlements in the vicinity.

Beyond this, and on the north side of the ravine, the granitic rock becomes more compact
and contains hornblende, but retains its laminated structure. About station 40, mica is
abundant, and the rock is gneissose and much contorted. "Towards the summit, the rocks grow
More compact and less highly laminated ; they contain less mica and are more like ordinary
granite. "Wherever this compact rock is fully exposed to the action of the weather it presents
rounded outlines, instead of the ragged and angular surfaces that characterize the more slaty and
laminated portions.

The minerals which form this granite are feldspar, quartz, hornblende, and mica; the two
latter appearing to be the varying constituents, and either found together in like proportions,
Or one predominating over the other without producing any great change in the appearance of
the rock. It resembles syenite, and has a very even texture, and light, gray color. There is,
however, an abundant distribution throughout the mass of isolated patches of a darker color
than the surrounding portions; and these masses have a lenticular or elongated form, and
Preserve a general parallelism of direction , corresponding with that of the planes of structure in

26 F

RUNS a eg RUE‏ 3 اون

202 GEOLOGY.

the adjoining rocks. These lens-shaped and elongated masses appear to differ from the enclosing
rock merely by the greater amount of either hornblende or mica that they contain. They are,
doubtless, the result of the action of the same forces that produced a more distinct and laminated
Structure in other parts ofthe same range. They are, also, harder, and offer greater resistance
to the disintegrating action of the atmosphere; they, consequently, stand out in relief from
surfaces that have been exposed to weathering. This is distinctly shown on the great erratic
masses that lie on the surface near the entrance to the Tejon.

Some portions of the compact rock disintegrate rapidly, cracking up into soft and friable
masses, that crumble readily when struck by the hammer, and fall into grains about the size of
peas. This is more especially the case with the granite in which the crystals of mica and feld-
spar predominate, and appears to be a separation between the constituent minerals rather than
a division-into their particles.

Tejon Pass.—The Tejon Pass is divided from the Tejon ravine by one ridge only, and the
granitic exposures in each have a general similarity. The Tejon Creek, which rises at the
summit of the Sierra, flows through the Pass at the base of the ridges on the south side. It
here makes good exposures of the rock, while on its left bank, or north side, it is bounded b
high banks of drift accumulations, in which it appears to have excavated its channel. This
drift occupies a large area in the valley of the Pass, and is deeply furrowed and cut into ravines
by the side streams that have descended from the high ridge on the north. As this drift

completely obscured the rocks on the north side, they were not examined, and the following
descriptions, as far as the summit, apply to the exposures on the south side of the Pass only.

The trend of the planes of structure in the granite, at the point of rocks at the entrance to the
Pass, (station 11, see Section 5,) is N. 48° W. by the needle, and their dip is nearly vertical.
The rock is laminated and slaty, but quite hard, and the surface is rough and angular. Directly
over the summit of this low projecting point the rocks are well exposed, and a narrow belt of a
very finely laminated syenitic granite appears, which contains a large amount of small garnets,
epidote, and granular quartz. The rock also contains black hornblende in such quantity as to
give it a dark shade, which distinguishes it from that adjoining it on each side. All these
minerals are arranged in numerous narrow seams, forming an exceedingly hard and compact
rock, cleaving most readily in the direction of the structural planes, wnich are sufficiently
numerous and regular to give a slaty appearance to the mass.

The mass also breaks up readily in two directions nearly transverseto the planes of structure,
producing triangular and rhombic masses, similar in their forms, and in the value of their
angles. These were measured as accurately as possible, and found to be 110° and 70°. The
trend of this rock is N. 25? W., (magnetic ;) its dip nearly vertical, inclining slightly eastward.
Although the outcrop has a width of only twenty feet, I have deemed its interesting structure
worthy of a minute description, especially as it is intercalated with rocks of a more micaceous
and granular structure. Á

A few rods further to the east the structural planes of the granite have a well-defined dip to
the northeast of 70°, and the rock is traversed by nearly horizontal veins of feldspar, composed
of an intermixture of beautiful white and reddish feldspar, with a thin central seam of epidote,
and an occasional grain or crystal of quartz, or black mica. This vein was traced along 4
vertical wall of granite for about one hundred and fifty feet. At several points it was disjointed,
the ends being thinned down to a mere line, and overlapping each other. They were separated

GRANITIC ROCKS OF THE TEJON—DRIFT DEPOSITS—OAK TREES. 203

by several inches of the laminated rock, as is represented in the figure, but no disturbance in
the structural planes could be detected. These are probably segregations, and not intruded.

(m

N
\

۱ WN ۱
NN ۱ ۱
AAI N

NN
NU

N

e IN

SEGREGATED FELDSPATIC VEIN.

Beyond this, a short distance, the structural planes are not so well developed, and the rock is
syenitic, and of a compact and uniform texture, and resists decomposition well. Its trend is
N. 40? W. In one of the ravines, where a nearly vertical wall of rock is exposed, I observed a
smooth and undulating surface, similar to that frequently exhibited at the junction of dykes of
trap with granite, and on the walls of mineral viens, appearing to be the result of motion and
pressure when the rocks were in a plastic state, and very different from ‘‘slickensides’’ or the
grooving and polishing produced on the walls of veins by the sliding of the rocks after their
consolidation. It is possible that, in this instance, the granite formed the wall of a feldspathic
vein, now entirely removed by disintegration.

At station 58, the outcropping granite is gray and compact; and the lenticular masses of
hornblende and mica, similar to those already described as occurring in Tejon ravine, are well
developed. Their direction, or trend, is N. 72° W.; dip north estimated at 50%. The direc-
tion was observed at several places, with the same result as above. This compact granite
continues to the summit-level with but little variation. The greater part of its surface in the
valley of the Pass is buried beneath a great heap of erratic blocks and drift-gravel confusedly
stratified. At the summit, station 140, there are several outcrops of the granite of limited
extent; it becomes more structural, and contains a large amount of hornblende and mica. The
mica is olive-green, and is in small plates and obscure crystals.

The soil which results from the disintegration of the granite and the associate rocks appears to be
peculiarly favorable to the growth of oaks, of which there are numerous species.! Quercus Hindsii,
or macradenia, is found growing on the rocky ridges and on the drift formation throughout the Pass,
and is most abundant towards the summit, but attains its greatest size in the valley, in situa-
tions sheltered from the prevailing winds. Pines also grow luxuriantly in the cañons of some
of the highest ridges. From the summit to the Great Basin the rocks are covered by a deep
granitic soil, and the surface is generally rounded, and in some places supports groves of oaks,
This, however, is the character along the wagon trail; the Survey followed the course of &
ravine, or creek, along which the rocks were favorably exposed. Even at the summit it was
difficult to find good exposures of the rock, there was so much soil and grass. At station 149,
a short distance below the summit, there is an outcrop of laminated, but compact, hornblendic
granite, cleaving into rhombic masses ; this is succeeded by granular granite, with a distinct
structural character. Below this, near station 151, are beds composed almost entirely of horn-
blende crystals, coarsely aggregated, the color varying from black to dark and light-green. In

! The following are some of the species of which leaves were obtained and drawings made. They were determined by Dr,
Torrey : Quercus macradenia ; Q. agrifolia ; Q. agrifolia, (a dwarf species); Q Douglasii; Q. crassipocula, (n. s.) Torrey ; Q.
Parryana, (n. s.) Torrey ; Q. Garryana. Q ipocula i t interesti i The leaves are thick and glossy,
and more like those of the orange tree or lemon than the ordinary oak. The acorn enormous, and very beautiful.

m E

204 | GEOLOGY.

portions of the rock the crystallization of the hornblende is fibrous and acicular, resembling -
varieties of asbestiform actinolite. This rock, for a thickness of twenty feet, is entirely free
from either quartz or feldspar ; and, like all aggregations of fibrous hornblende, is very tough
and difficult to break.

From this point to stafion 172 the rock is a syenitic granite, showing a structural arrange-
ment of the minerals, and changing by insensible gradations to varying conditions of lamina-
tion. Hornblendic, micaceous, and chloritic slates, with imbedded quartz, succeed.

At station 176 there is an exposure of a peculiar quartzose rock, forming a bed, in which the
quartz is disposed in nearly vertical planes, interleaved with delicate films of brilliant, silvery
mica, which fold around the grains of quartz on the flat surfaces, and disguise the true char-
acter of the rock, which can only be seen in a cross fracture.

East of this laminated quartz rock there is a succession of chlorite rocks, with a slaty struc-
ture, and much stained by oxide of iron. At 183, a series of outcrops of quartz rock and white
crystalline limestone commences. The beds are of various thicknesses, dipping to the east, or
southeast. The quartz rock, which is the first of the series, and adjoins the ferruginous chlo-
ritic rock, is compact, amorphous, or sub-granular, and is without the usual vitreous lustre of
quartz. Portions of the rock are deeply stained with oxide of iron, probably from the infiltra-
tion of ferruginous water derived from the decomposition of pyrites. "There are also indications
of structure or stratification in the mass. Its general appearance and condition is entirely
different from that of the granitic series that has been described, and it resembles a sandstone
in a condition of semi-metamorphism. The white limestone is in immediate contact with this
quartz rock. Its texture varies from the ordinary coarsely crystalline varieties to a compact
sacharoidal marble. Scales of graphite are disseminated in some portions, but no other mine-
rals commonly occurring in such limestone were found at this outcrop. The width of this bed
was about 200 feet, and it was succeeded by another similar one, separation between them being
effected by a thin bed of quartz rock, conformable with the limestone beds, and similar to that
last described.

The relations of the series can be seen on the section, or in the annexed section from the note-
book, in which, however, the relative thicknesses are not correctly represented.

LOCAL SECTION NEAR STATION 183.

HB rs NT

站 s COM LPS \
` n a DEN WENT E
«T F \ wer AK E X
N b a SI eee E
Es b.e d

a chloritic slates ; bb quartz rock ; c c c white limestone ; d syenitic granite.

A belt of syenitic granite is interposed between these limestones and another series of beds of
limestone, alternating with quartz rock, coming to the surface near station 191. These are
again succeeded by granite and hornblende slate of a compact texture, which, near one of the
limestone beds, appears like a trap rock, breaking up into hard angular fragments, but still
showing a distinct slaty structure. The section continues to present a succession of dark and
light-colored syenites, passing into granite, in which the structural planes are developed 12
varying degrees to near station 206. At this point there is believed to be another outcrop of
limestone; one is recorded in section in the notes, but it is unaccompanied by any description
except the mention of the presence of hornblendic slates on each side. Whether this outcrop 18
at 206 or further east is uncertain. Its inclination, however, is towards the east.

METAMORPHIC SANDSTONE AND LIMESTONE. 205

At a point near 212, quartz rock again makes its appearance in a bed about one hundred feet
thick; then follows a fine-grained syenite two hundred feet thick ; and a second bed of quartz
and one of limestone, (at 212,) in which there are numerous imperfectly formed crystals of a
brown garnet.

This is the last outcrop of limestone in the Pass, and is succeeded, five hundred feet eastward,
by a fine mica and hornblende slate, with a trend N. 37? E., dip S. E. about 45°. This rock
is remarkably homogeneous, and its trend and dip is unusually distinct. It has planes of
cleavage other than those in the direction of the beds, giving to the broken masses a sharp,
angular outline, which, with the dark color, makes them resemble a trap or basaltie rock.

This series of beds of granite, quartz rock, limestone, and hornblendic rock presents a slightly
different appearance when examined at the outerops along the wagon trail about three-
quarters of a mile further north. There, the last described syenitic rock is more highly crys-
talline, and contains transverse veins of white limestone and quartz several inches in width.
These rocks are the last that are exposed in the natural section, and hardly rise above the
surface of the broad slope of the Great Basin, which is composed of sedimentary accumulations
of modern age.

We have thus considered in succession all the outerops öf the rocks from the Tulare Plains
to the summit of the mountains, and then downwards along the course of a creek on the east
slope to the Great Basin. ;

It is evident that the rocks east of the summit are chiefly metamorphosed sedimentary forma-
tions, and it is probable that a great part of those on the western flank are also metamorphic.
The predominance of the rocks, with the composing minerals arranged in parallel planes, is one
of the most striking features of the section ; and west of the summit it becomes difficult, if not
impossible, to distinguish between the metamorphic rocks and those which are decidedly erup-
tive in their character. If the structural condition of the rock was regarded as conclusive
evidence of its metamorphie character, we would be obliged to consider the whole series as
metamorphosed. There is, however, little reason to doubt that the gray and compact granite,
with its included lenticular masses of minerals, is eruptive. The beds of white limestone, with
the adjoining beds of quartz rock, are exceedingly interesting. The limestone varies from a
coarsely crystalline structure to a fine-grained, granular or sacharoidal marble. It is very white,
and some of the beds contain disseminated crystals of graphite. The metamorphism is so com-
plete that if the rock originally contained fossils, they are now completely destroyed. A part
of the rock very closely resembles the coarsely crystalline white limestone of Sussex county,
New Jersey,

The quartz rock may be regarded as metamorphosed beds of sandstone. The color is light
buff, or yellowish, and not unlike that of the Potsdam sandstone along Lake Champlain.
Several of the specimens exhibit a sub-granular structure, and prove to be calcareous.—(See
No. 4, Catalogue and descriptions.) The recurrence of similar beds at regular intervals along
the section leaves little doubt that they were formerly continuous, and that they have been
uplifted and thrown into flexures, or plicated. This is also shown by the dips or inclinations
of the beds, those nearest the summit being nearly vertical, while those lower down the slope
incline at a considerable angle from the vertical. The flexure has possibly taken place as
indicated upon the section by a dotted line. If such a plication exists, the upper parts of the
vos have been removed by denudations. This view of the relations of the beds is presented
with some hesitation, as the probable plication was not recognized in the field, and only became

206 GEOLOGY.

apparent when the section was constructed. There is also some doubt about the position of the
outcrop of limestone between stations 191 and 212. It was not possible, in a hurried exami-
nation of such an extended section, to give that attention to measurements and other observa-
tions upon the rocks which are essential to the truthful representation of plications.

It is worthy of remark, that here, as in the Appalachians, the most abrupt flexures, as indi-
cated by the dip of the strata, are turned towards the ocean. The dips also indicate that the
lateral force or wave produeing the folding or undulation was from that direction, or from west
to east.

In this section of the Sierra Nevada we do not find great masses of clay-slate or roofing
slates, similar to those of the western slope of the Sierra in the latitude of San Francisco.
Neither are the talcose or magnesian slates represented, unless the chloritic slates be regarded
as their equivalents. "The entire absence of all erupted dykes of porphyry, or even of ordinary
trap or greenstone, so far as observed, is also remarkable. "There are no indications in con-
nexion with the limestone and quartz rock which throw light upon their age. Whether they
are Silurian, Devonian, or Carboniferous is yet to be determined. There is some reason to
regard them as Carboniferous, for these are the nearest known formations of limestone and sand-
stone which are recognizable by fossils. The carboniferous limestone has been recognized by
Mr. Marcou as far west as the head-waters of the Ha-wil-ha-mook, or Bill Williams' fork of
the Colorado, in longitude 113?, or about 350 miles east of these outcrops, and on the same
parallel of latitude. It is probable that the bed of limestone on the western side of the pass
is similar in its lithological characters and age to the outcrops on the east, but its exact rela-
tions to the adjoining rocks were not determined.

From a consideration and comparison of the different observations, keeping in mind at the
same time the locality and the peculiar local conditions, I have been induced to regard the pre-
vailing trend of the rocks of the main ridge between stations 125 and 212 as N. 20? to 30° E.
One great reason for this conclusion is found in the general course of the crest of the ridge,
which according to the results of the Survey has at that point a northeasterly trend, and it is
believed to conform in a great measure with the trend of the composing rocks.

Trend of the granite of the Pass.—Observations upon the trend of the granite were made as
frequently as possible, and whenever a suitable exposure of the rock was found. In the rough
cañons and steep slopes of the ridges it was not always possible to catch an extended view of
the outcropping edges of the rocks, and the trends as observed do not in all cases indicate their
prevailing or predominant direction. The trends that were observed on the western side of the
ridge were taken on the south side of the creek, and were all west of north, ranging from 6? to
40°, and one of 72°, but this is believed to be more westerly in its direction than is common,
and, possibly, is erroneous. On the eastern side of the crest of the ridge, the trends, with some
exceptions, were east of north, and were generally regular and well defined. The following are
some that were noted—a correction of 14? 30' having been applied for variation:

Station. 'Trend. | Station. 'Trend.
176 N. 14° 30' E. | 203 N. 309 W.
183 N. and $. | 211 N. 309 35’ E.
191 N. 159 E. | 212 N. 390 30' E.
202 N. 15° W. |

TERTIARY AND RECENT DEPOSITS—ERRATICS. 207

Tertiary and Post-tertiary deposits.—The white and chalk-like banks or cliffs, which were
observed in approaching the Tejon Depot Camp from the northward, are probably of the same -
age and lithological characters as the Miocene formation at Ocoya Creek. These hills flank the
most western ridge of the granitic rocks, and slope down gradually to the level of the Tulares.
They were not seen in section, and no observations upon their lithological characters can be
presented. "They are represented on the section. It is probable, however, that a continuation
of these deposits underlies the whole of the detrital materials of the slope, and the alluvial and
lacustrine clay of the Tulares; and finally reappears on the opposite side of the valley to form
the foot-hills of the Coast Meinteing:

The mountains north of the Depot Camp are more or less covered, up to an elevation of 1,000 to
2,000 feet, with sedimentary materials, which, in all probability, are Tertiary, overlaid by more
recent deposits of drift or detritus. The surface is covered with transported fragments and
boulders of various rocks, most of them porphyritic and not in place in the vicinity. One
boulder over five feet in diameter was observed. The washing away of a large part of these
deposits, and the erosion of ravines by running water during rains, has supplied a large
quantity of loose earth and sand to be spread out over the adjoining slopes of the Tejon and
Tulares.

The Tertiary deposits do not appear to extend as far east as the entrance to Tejon Ravine or
Tejon Pass. In the Pass, however, there is an extensive accumulation of sedimentary materials
of comparatively modern age. They are probably wholly formed of drift, or the rounded and
water-worn debris of the adjoining mountains.. This deposit occupies the bottom of the valley
of the Pass nearly to the summit, and, as has been already stated, the creek has cut its channel
upon the south side along the junction of the deposit with the granite. In travelling through
the Pass, therefore, the granitic rocks are found on one side and rounded hills or steep banks of
this drift deposit on the other. The many small tributaries to Tejon Creek, from the high
ravines in the mountain on the north side, cut directly across the accumulation and form good
sections, but they are generally so much overgrown with grass, and obscured by soil, that the
lithological characters can hardly be determined. These sections show, however, that the
deposit is at least over 100 feet thick ; and it probably is in some places over 500 feet, and may
be underlaid by Tertiary strata. The general form of the valley of the Pass, and the relative
positions of the drift, are shown in the annexed section from north to south, a few miles beyond
the entrance. :

Put Ure S
ER اه‎
PA / \
Cae i am LAA
واه تسوا‎ de
p Nf
p GRANITE
a is aec gor
ones XE -
oz = ET ge a E:
—o-9 4933946 9 5 X ms > > x d ce ‚N
nr سے‎ 3
Pa EN Tur 328 EE LET NR yos Fo. aoe

cp tw. ak TS

SECTION ACROSS THE VALLEY OF TEJON CREEK.

The materials composing this deposit are chiefly earth, sand, and gravel; and a large pro-
portion of coarse drift of boulders and cobble stones, from six inches to four feet in diameter ;
masses of the latter size being rare. These are rudely stratified, as may be seen in some of the
banks. The surface is generally undulating, and shaded by groves of oak. The transverse

-

208 GEOLOGY.

valleys, or ravines, formed in this deposit by the little streams entering from the north, are, in
several instances, terraced on both sides. Between stations sixty-two and one hundred and six,
a ravine is very distinctly terraced, and is rendered more interesting by a deposit of rounded
and angular masses of rock, from one to two feet or more in diameter, on each bank just at the
margin of theterrace. These rocks are so thickly spread that the soil is invisible in some places,
and in others, they are within stepping distance of each other. In width, this belt or margin of
erratics is not over thirty or forty feet, and is generally more narrow. It is singular that they
are found at the margins of the terraces only. It is possible that they are of glacial origin, but
may have been washed out of the banks by the stream, when of greater volume than now, and
accumulated along its bed, to be afterwards cut through by a more narrow and a deeper channel,
and thus left, in part, on each side. Under this supposition, that the stream, producing the
erosion, has gradually been diminishing in volume, the terraced form may be explained without
resorting to the hypothesis of a sudden uplift of the region.

‚Local deposits of large blocks of granite are found at several places on the plain-like surface
of the Tejon, between the site of the Depot Camp and the entrance to the Pass. This granite
corresponds, lithologically, with the granite found in the Pass and in the upper portions of
Tejon Ravine. "The blocks have evidently been transported from the valley of the Pass or the
ravine. "They do not border the bed of any stream, but extend in long lines on the sürface.
Similar accumulations are, however, found along the course of the creek, after it flows from the
ravine of the Pass. If the other accumulations were originally deposited along a creek, all
traces of its bed are removed. Some of the blocks along the creek are over fifteen feet in diameter,
and it seems hardly possible that they could have been rolled forward from their source even by
a great flood. It is possible that they were transported by glaciers at some remote period when
the climate may have been favorable for the formation of such bodies of ice.

The granitic and metamorphic rocks on the Great Basin side of the mountains pass beneath
nearly horizontal strata, which are probably Tertiary. These strata are overlaid by a thick accu-
mulation of more recently deposited materials—the wash and detritus from the ridges. It could
not be determined whether the edges of the strata, which were obscurely exposed in the sides of
the valley, were, in reality, very different from, or older than, the materials of theslope. They
are, however, believed to be of the age of the Tertiary, and to extend beneath the guperficial
deposits of the Basin in the same manner as on the west side. Similar strata pass below the
surface deposits of the Tulare plains. "The probability that they are Tertiary is increased by the
occurrence of sandstones believed to be of that period on the corresponding slope of the Cañada
de las Uvas twenty miles further south. 4

SECTION AT THE CAÑADA DE LAS UVAS.

By referring to the Geological Map, it will be seen that the Pass, called the Cañada de las
Uvas, is situated about twenty miles southwest of the Tejon Pass, and leads from the southern
end of the Tulare Valley to the Great Basin. It may be said to turn the southern extremity of
the Sierra Nevada, although the mountains are of equal altitude beyond. The break in «i
mountains is much greater than at the Tejon Pass, and the narrow cañon, or the rocky portion
of the valley of the Pass is much shorter, and is near to the entrance from the Tejon or Tulare
slope. Beyond this, the Pass is a succession of open, elevated valleys between ridges. Thus
configuration of the Pass is not so favorable to observations on the granitic rocks, and they were

CANADA DE LAS UVAS—GRANITIC ROCKS. 209

not as well exposed as in the ravines of the Tejon Pass. The whole width of the granitic expo-
sure, by direct section across the strike of the planes of structure, is less than seven miles, but,
including a second ridge, the point of which is skirted, itis about ten. The formations bounding
the Pass for the remaining distance are Tertiary sandstones and accumulations of drift, with
occasional outcrops of intrusive rocks.

The geological section of the Cañada, Section 7, Sheet IV, is constructed like that of the
Tejon Pass, although on a different scale. It is intended to exhibit, as nearly as was ascer-
tained, the structure or lamination of the rocks as they are exposed along the sides of the
Cañada. As the prevailing trend of the planes of structure is east and west, the observations
are referred to a straight line running north and south, so that the relative positions of the
different parts of the rocks might be exhibited. Only that part of the section included between
stations 1 and 40 are referred to this line. The portion showing the Tulare slope is along a
line connecting station 1 with Kern Lake. The remainder of the section, from 40 to 74, is
along the line of the trail, (east and west, see map,) and it is parallel with the prevailing trend
of the formations. It is given merely to show the average elevation of that part of the Basin,
and to indicate the character of the hills bounding the trail.

The first four miles of the pass is a narrow gorge, averaging less than one-quarter of a mile
in width; it is in this portion that the principal exposures of the rocks occur. These rocks
have a general similarity to those of the western slope of the Tejon, being generally hard and
compact, although highly structural or laminated. Mica, however, appears to occur in greater
abundance, and a part of the rock is unlike any observed in the section at the Tejon. That
portion of the rock near the entrance from the Tulare slope is without hornblende, which
appears to be entirely replaced by mica, in crystals about one-quarter of an inch broad. This
mica is also disposed in narrow veins, traversing the rock, and looking, on the exposed edges,
like black hornblende.

About two miles from the entrance the rock is highly laminated and less dense, and might be
called a coarse mica-slate. Several of the specimens were very dark colored, and appeared to be
imbued with plumbago. Half a mile beyond, the rock is more compact and like ordinary
granite, and contains a considerable portion of white, silvery mica. Garnets were also observed.
Beyond this, and nearly three miles from the entrance, the rock becomes more laminated and
gneissoidal, and is sueceeded beyond by more compact rock. This contains hornblende, and is
thus syenitic, but is highly laminated or structural, and is traversed by quartz veins, About
four miles from the entrance the rock becomes like the gray granite of the Tejon Pass and
Tejon ravine, and contains similar lenticular aggregations of mica and hornblende. Here the
valley of the Pass becomes more open, and the rocks are not favorably exposed for observation.
The camp was located in this part of the valley in a grove of oak trees. Beyond it, and
between stations 3 and 6, outcrops of white crystalline limestone occur, and trend obliquely
across the valley, or nearly east and west. Nearly opposite station 15, at the end of the ridges
where the valley opens towards the southwest, limestone again appears in several outcrops,
apparently parallel with those first observed. The intermediate space is occupied by granitic
or metamorphic rocks, but they are much hid, and indeed almost entirely covered, by a thick
deposit of drift or Tertiary strata. The ridges terminate at this point, and are separated from
those beyond by a narrow valley, and the small lake or pond called Casteca Lake, which, when
dry, is white with salt left by the evaporation.

The granitic ridge which bounds this lake on the south is so much covered with.soil and

27 F

210 GEOLOGY.

drift, that the character of the rock is obscured, and a rounded and smooth outline is given to it.
It forms a projecting point, around which the valley of the Pass bends, as will be seen on the
map. The granitic character of the underlying rock is shown by several limited outcrops along
the base of the ridge. At a point on the southern side, the rock appears to be composed of a
simple mixture of quartz and feldspar, or albite, in fine grains, without mica. The mass much
resembles some compact or metamorphic sandstones; it appears to decompose rapidly, crumbling
to a white powder, which mingles with the debris of the overlying sediments. A short distance
further west, and near the summit, but at the southern foot of this granitic ridge, (between 38
and 40 on the section,) we find a third series of narrow ridges of white limestone. They are
accompanied by trappean dykes, with a nearly east and west trend. These give rise to a series
of small, local valleys, parallel with the outcrops. A vein of iron-ore is intercalated in one of

these limestone ridges.
SECTION NORTH AND SOUTH NEAR THE SUMMIT.

d o 1 t g ۱
g. Granitic. t. Trap, or igneous rock. l. White limestone. o. Bed ofiron ore. d. Drift deposits and Tertiary.

These outerops and the dykes of trap, with the exposed surface of the adjoining granite, all
trend nearly east and west, and thus are transverse to the line of the section. They are,
therefore, represented upon it near station 38, or at the extreme southern part of the ridge,
this being the point at which they would appear if prolonged in their line of trend. It is
probable that another series of beds of limestone occurs on the north or opposite side of the
ridge fronting on Casteca Lake. If so, there would be scarcely a doubt of the identity of these
formations, in respect to age and metamorphism, with the limestones of the eastern slope of the
mountains at the Tejon Pass. "The three outcrops described, trending parallel with each other,
and separated by granitic or metamorphic rocks, taken in connexion with the similarity of the
adjoining granite to that of the Tejon, are, however, sufficient to justify the conclusion, that
the formations are synchronous and similarly plicated. They are, in all probability, continuous
along the eastern slope of the mountains, from one pass to the other.

The intrusive rocks which appear in connexion with the outcrops of limestone on the south
side, or Great Basin slope of the ridge, are continuous towards the east on the north side of the
valley of the Pass, among the sandstone formations ; being best defined between stations 40 and
48, near the little ponds or lagoons.—(See 40 on the Section.) These dykes are of a dark color,
very compact, and slightly porphyritic. Some peculiar rocks were observed in connexion with
them, which appear to be the granite in a metamorphic condition. . It appeared to have n
fused, so as to produce an intimate mixture of the minerals, and to have cooled without taking
a crystalline structure.

This part of the Pass may be considered as the boundary or foot of the Sierra on the side of
the Basin; the remaining extension of the valley, until it finally opens out upon the broad
slope of the Great Basin, (see Geological Map,) may be regarded as a hollow, or valley of denu-
dation, in the sandstones and hills of drift that form the upper and higher parts of the great
slope. The hills on each side are low; but the strata of the sediments are not horizontal,
having been uplifted by the intrusion of the volcanic rocks already mentioned, and by an addi-

di SESS E ee
PLEST M

WHITE DYKES Qa NDSTONE, 21 1

tional series of ridges coming to the surface opposite station 74, at the extreme eastern end of
the Pass.

This volcanic rock presents various shades of red and dark-green, and some portions of the
dykes are distinctly laminated. Other parts are vesicular, and contain small masses of chal-
cedony, often forming only a thin lining on the border of the cavity ; the inner surfaces being
drusy with small and brilliant quartz crystals. Seams of white and translucent silica are also
present. These quartzose nodules are the most abundant in the red rock. The dark brown
and greenish portions of the dykes contain earthy nodules of a brilliant, dark, chrome-green
color, and the same substance forms thin coatings upon the surfaces of small fissures. I regret
that all the specimens from this vicinity were lost, as some of this peculiar green mineral was
collected for examination.

The direction or trend of these intruded rocks appeared to be nearly north 20? east, south
20° west. An adjoining outcrop of sandstone strata trends north 45? east, and south 45° west;
dip 54? to 55? towards the southeast.

By reference to the map, it will be observed that the eastern part of the Pass, from the sum-
mit to station 74, extends nearly parallel with, and skirts the foot hills of, the east and west
range of mountains that divides the Great Basin from the valleys and slopes of San Fernando
and Los Angeles. The hills on the right or south of the trail thus gradually rise to the
elevated ridges of that range; while on the north the observer, after ascending about one hun-
dred feet, stands on a wide and gentle slope, and has an unobstructed view of the Great Basin
and the numerous barren ridges that rise from its broad surface like islands in the ocean.

The outcrops of igneous rock and the uplifted sandstone strata may be regarded as pertaining
to this transverse chain of heights—the Bernardino Sierra—rather than to the Sierra Nevada.
The central axis of this chain is granitic and metamorphic, as shown by the examination of the
Pass of San Francisquito and Williamson's Pass, both of which are represented on the little
Geological Map. The sedimentary formations of the Cafiada, the Tertiary formations, and the
more modern drift accumulations, are described in Chapter XIII and in the Itinerary.

CHAPTER XVI.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE GREAT BASIN,

BOUNDARIES OF THE BASIN AS ORIGINALLY ASSIGNED.—SUPPOSED DIVIDING RANGE. —MOJAVE RIVER NOT A TRIBUTARY OF THE COLORADO.—
BOUNDARIES ACCORDING TO RECENT EXPLORATIONS.—LENGTH AND BREADTH.—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF THE SOUTHERN PORTION.—
ASPECT OF THE REGION FROM THE CREST OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.—INFLUENCE OF THE SIERRA NEVADA ON THE CLIMATE.—LOST MOUN-
TAINS.—ELEVATION OF THE SURFACE.— ASPECT OF THE BOUNDARY RANGES FROM THE PLATEAU.—SLOPES.— CHANNELS OR VALLEYS IN THE
SLOPES.— INCLINATION OF THE SLOPRS.—LOWEST PARTS OF THE BASIN.—MEAN ELEVATION OF THE SURFACE,— GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF

TIONS, SLOPES.—TERTIARY STRATA AND DRIFT.— RIVERS AND THEIR ACTION ON THE SLOPES. 一 DRY LAKE-BEDS.— MIRAGE.—PRINTS ON THE

^ CKS.— WHIRLWINDS OF DUST—STREAMS AND SPRINGS.—MOJAVE RIVER, ITS ALTERNATE APPEARANCE AND DISAPPEAR-
ANCE.—JOHNSON'S RIVER.—SPRINGS NEAR THE LOST MOUNTAINS.—SPRING AT THE MOJAVE, AND BEYOND.—A RTESIAN WELLS.— ÜBSERYA-
TIONS ON THE VEGETATION, AND DISTRIBUTION OF PLANTS.

The extensive semi-desert region east of the crest of the Sierra. Nevada, and lying between
that chain and the mountains bounding the Valley of the Colorado to its sources, is described
by Colonel J. C. Fremont as an elevated region, surrounded by high mountain ranges, including
lakes and rivers, which have no connexion with the sea. To this broad area he gave the name
Great. Basin, and has defined its boundaries on the map which accompanies his report made in
1845.1 According to this map, the Basin extends from near the parallel of 45? on the north to
34° 30’ on the south ; and east and west from longitude 112° to longitude 120°, (near the
parallel of 44°, which intersects the Great Salt Lake.) In a subsequent memoir,? accompanying
a map of Oregon and California, published in 1848, the Basin is said to have an extent of about
five hundred miles in diameter every way. The boundaries, however, as given on the map, are
very different from those of the map of 1845 ; the southern limit of the Basin being supposed to
be formed by a dividing range of mountains, extending nearly east and west along the parallel
of 38°, called the ** Dividing range between the waters of the Pacific and the waters of the Great
Basin." The northern boundary was also represented as far south as the parallel of 41° 30.
The Mojave river was then believed to be a tributary of the Colorado, and was so represented.
It was also laid down on the ** Bureau Map ” of 1850° as a continuous river from its sources to
the Colorado, receiving, as a tributary, a stream called Agua de Tomaso. Under the supposition
that the Mojave river drained into the Colorado, it was necessary to exclude from the limits of
the Great Basin a large area at the south, thus leaving its southern boundary uncertain,
although apparently formed by mountains seen in the north—the dividing range of the map of
of 1848.

It having been ascertained by the Expedition that the Mojave is not a tributary of the Colo-
rado, but that it ends in a dry lake nearly one hundred miles distant from the Colorado, and
that a high and rugged range of mountains forms a barrier between the two rivers, the basin-

1 Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains, and to Oregon and to North California, House Doc. No.
166, 1845.

? Geographical memoir upon Upper California, to illustrate the map of Oregon and California. Senate, 30th Congress,
Miscellaneous No. 148, p, 7.

3 Map of the United States and their Territories, compiled in the Bureau of Topographical Engineers, Washington, 1850-

T‏ زان نا

UE GUERRE CREADA RI P FR tl

BOUNDARIES OF THE GREAT BASIN——ASPECT OF THE SURFACE. 213

like character of that region 1s established, and there is little reason to doubt that the original
statement, and the representation of the southern boundary of the Great Basin, was correct.

The boundaries of this region, as at present known, may, then, be stated as follows: On the
north by the elevated ridges in which the tributaries of the left bank of Snake River take their
rise, extending east and west near the parallel of 42? ; on the east by the dividing ridge
between the waters of the sources of the Colorado River and the Salt Lake, (the Wahsatch or
Timpanogos Mountains,) and by the range between the Colorado and the Mojave, (Pai Ute
range;) on the south by the Bernardino Sierra, from San Bernardino Mountain to the
Sierra Nevada ; and on the west by the Sierra Nevada.

The region thus bounded is a nearly triangular area, with its apex at the south in the Peak
of San Bernardino, latitude 34° 30’, and its base nearly along the parallel of 42?—the dividing
line between the Territories of Utah and Oregon ; it also extends beyond and includes some of
the elevated lakes of the crest of the Sierra Nevada. Its northeastern angle also extends into
Oregon, including Bear River, the principal tributary of the Salt Lake. Its greatest length,
measured from San Bernardino to its northwestern extremity; is nearly 700 miles; or, measured
from Bernardino Mountain northwards along the meridian, is about 500 miles. "The width, on
the parallel of 42°, is over 500 miles ; but south of the parallel of 36°, it is less than 180 miles.
This narrow portion of the Basin, its southern extremity, reaches to within fifty miles of the
Pacific Ocean ; and although it is narrow, and of small extent when compared with the wide
area between the Sierra Nevada and the Great Salt Lake, it is believed that the great charac-
teristic features of arid barrenness, described by Frémont and others, are so strikingly displayed
that a good conception of the whole area can be obtained from it. "The geology, also, of the
portion examined is so simple and well defined, and the structure of the region is such, that its
geology may be regarded as an index to the geological structure of a wide area towards the
north.

The first view of the surface of the southern part of the Basin was obtained from the Tejon
Pass, at an elevation of about 6,000 feet. Istood on the crest of the Sierra Nevada, among
oak groves, and near the margin of a forest of pines, but in the east a vast wilderness lay
stretched out before me. It was not a wilderness of unbroken forest, but a desolate, barren
region, parched and desert-like, its color that of dry gravel and sand. Here and there over the
broad area were isolated ridges of barren rocks, rising in some places in conical peaks, flanked
by long slopes, and in others extending for miles in a continuous series, one behind the other,
until their outlines were blended with the distant horizon. "Those persons whose eyes have only
been familiar with green fields and wooded hills can scarcely form an adequate conception of the
appearance of these bare mountains and the desert-like character of this inland region. Its
surface is diversified only by these bald, barren, and rocky ridges, which rise at intervals, and
present a strong contrast with the fertile, soil-covered ridges of the Sierra Nevada, watered by
brooks and covered with verdure.

This strong contrast, or vividly marked change in the aspect of the country, is a grand
demonstration of the climatal influence of the Sierra Nevada. This lofty chain of snowy peaks
rises like a wall between the Pacific and the interior, and acts the part of dessicator to the
moist winds that pour in from the ocean, abstracting the vapor that they hold, and condensing
it upon the summits in fields of snow.

The moisture being thus abstracted from the winds, they pass inland over the surface of the
Basin, and, instead of bearing clouds of vapor to be there condensed, they are in a condition to

214 l GEOLOGY.

abstract what little moisture may be offered by the loose and porous soil. The necessary condi-
tions for luxuriant vegetation are therefore wanting ; and the only plants found there have a
most peculiar and extraordinary appearance, and are seldom seen in localities where the air is
charged with vapor.

The barren ridges by which the surface of the Basin is diversified are much lower than the
Sierra Nevada, and consist, apparently, of isolated peaks. The term Lost Mountains has, not
inappropriately, been applied to these elevations ; for they do not form continuous ridges, or an
unbroken line of elevation, but consist of disconnected and rugged peaks, or very short ridges,
rising at intervals of from five to twenty miles. They are surrounded on all sides by the long
and gentle slopes which form the apparent plateau of the Basin.

These observations are made with reference to the mountains of the southern part of the
Basin only, but they will doubtless truthfully apply to much of the northern and central
portions. We are, however, aware that in the more extended and broad parts of the Basin to
the northward there are long and lofty ranges—as, for example, the Humboldt Mountains, and
others—which have all the characteristics of mountain chains. These are, however, believed
to be but more enlarged and extended examples of the same peculiarities of structure that are
observable in the minor ridges of the southern portion of the Basin.

The isolated and broken character of theše ridges permits the traveller to avoid them by
making frequent detours around their bases ; and, in the event of the construction of a railroad
over this surface, a nearly uniform grade can be obtained by winding about on the slopes.

These Lost Mountains, in the part of the Basin explored by the Survey, are separated by
intervals of several miles; the principal ridges being from six to ten and twenty miles or more
apart. Several which were visited were about eighteen miles north of the Bernardino Sierra.
From the tops of these ridges the mountains further north appeared to be more numerous
and nearer together ; but this appearance was, in great part, due to perspective. It was difi-
cult to determine the exact trend of the short ranges ; but there is little doubt that the general
or average direction is nearly north and south, or parallel with the eastern ranges of the Sierra
Nevada. 4

The most striking feature of the Basin, next to the absence of drainage to the sea, is the great
elevation of its surface, as compared with the extensive valley of the San Joaquin and Sacra-
mento, or the slopes of the coast further south. The elevation was estimated by Col. Fremont to
range from four to six thousand feet; the Great Salt Lake, near its eastern limit, has an eleva-
tion of four thousand five hundred feet.! The southern part of the Basin, however, although
elevated, does not attain this altitude, but is considerably lower, as will be shown subsequently .
The great elevation of the surface produces a great difference in the appearance of the bounding
ranges, compared with their aspect from the plains at their seaward base. The eastern slope
or ascent of the Sierra Nevada from the plateau is thus rendered very short, as compared with
that towardsthe Pacific. Along the Bernardino Sierra, the surface of the Basin reaches, in many
places, nearly to the summit of the chain, forming, in one instance, the crest of a pass. The
Basin may thus be said to be filled nearly to the brim. ۱

The surface thus elevated is not, as is generally supposed, a nearly level plain or plateau, p
is rather a combination of slopes flanking the bounding mountains and all of the intermediate
ranges, ridges, or Lost Mountains. These slopes are of slight inclination, but of uniform rates

1 Report of Colonel J. C. Fremont.

۱

ELEVATION OF THE SURFACE—SLOPES AROUND THE MOUNTAINS. 215

of ascent, and their length is determined by the distances between the ridges or frame-work upon
which the materials forming them are deposited.

When travelling on these extended slopes, the descent is scarcely perceptible, but becomes
remarkably distinct where a distant and projecting angle of the mountains throws the slope
outward, so that it can be viewed at right angles to its direction of descent.’ When these oppor-
tunities offered, the clinometer was used to measure the amount of inclination, and five degrees
and six degrees was generally obtained as the result. The almost entire absence of vegetation
sufficient to obscure the vision, and the clear air of that region, permit all the inequalities of
the surface to be distinctly seen, even at great distances. The explorer of the Basin has, there-
fore, peculiar facilities for studying its topography. The gently ascending or descending slopes
permit rapid travelling, and the occasional ridges and peaks offer inviting points of view.

The general characters and aspect of the slope from the Sierra Nevada, at the eastern end of
the Tejon Pass, are described in Chapter VI. It is furrowed by a long valley of erosion leading
from the Tejon, so that the view is limited on each side by the low banks or rounded hills
formed out of the sedimentary deposits of the slope. A representation of this long valley, with
its peculiar vegetation, accompanies this Chapter, View XI. The upper margin of the slope is four
thousand feet in elevation, and it descends out into the Dasin very uniformly. The slope at the
Caiiada de las Uvas is of the same character; the inclined surface or slope being continuous
between the two places. The slope flanking the Bernardino Sierra is similar in its characters
and very uniform in its surface. It extends northwards into the Basin until broken at intervals
by the Lost Monntains, or an intersection with their slopes. This broad slope, extending for
nearly one hundred miles, with a breadth of from fifteen to twenty is, in some respects, not
unlike that which flanks the same chain on its opposite side and extends to, and under, the
waters of the Pacific. It is, however, very different from that slope in its appearance and eleva-
tion, and is not so much modified or destroyed by the action of streams. On the side of the
Pacific the streams are not only more numerous, but have a greater volume, and have excavated
broader channels, which coalesce, and thus produce wide valleys; while, in the Basin, the streams
are few, and widely separated ; their channels are short and deeply cut, and extend but a short
distance from the mountains.

In eur journey over this inland slope, we were, in some places, obliged to descend with the
wagons to its lower portions, in order to avoid these deeply-cut channels, which seemed like
great grooves in the plain.

EZ G
— بسح‎ 2

==
MID بپ ی‎ u = wm M
— a ee
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— E ea SN

CHANNELS IN THE SLOPE OF THE GREAT BASIN.

The general form of these channels near the mountains may be illustrated by an outline
. Sketch from my note book, taken from a point between Johnson's River and the Cajon Pass.

The regularity of the slope and its nearly uniform inclination was exhibited in the most
striking manner in the descent from the summit of the Cajon Pass to the first camp on the
Mojave River, a distance of 19 miles. It appeared very much like a plain when we were

216 GEOLOGY.

descending it by the old Spanish trail; but, on arriving at the river, we found that we were
2,012 feet lower than the entrance to the Cajon at the upper margin of the slope. This descent
of 2,012 feet in 19 miles is an average of 105 feet to the mile.

The descent, however, for a short distance from the summit is the most abrupt, being 497
feet in a little over two miles. Below that point the grades vary from 93 to 86 feet to the mile,
and this is the most regular part of the slope; the descent in a distance of 17 miles being but
little more than 1,500 feet. "This amount of inclination is by no means constant for all the
slopes of the Basin. Many parts of the northern slope of the Bernardino Sierra have a greater
angle of descent, and this is especially true of many of the shorter slopes around the isolated
ranges or Lost Mountains.

The meeting of opposite slopes necessarily forms a series of valleys, or basin-shaped depres-
sions, between the bounding mountains and the Lost Mountains; also, between the latter.
These are very numerous ; in fact, the Great Basin must be regarded as made up of a series of
smaller and local basins between the ranges. These conditions of the surface are made manifest
along the whole eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, or wherever there is sufficient precipitation
of water to form lakes or pools. The chain of lakes extending from Oregon south into Cali-
fornia is found in a series of basins, or local valleys without outlets to the sea, or to the lowest
parts of the Basin. They are independent basins of limited extent, and such valleys form the
Great Basin by being grouped together. E

In an attempt, therefore, to determine the average elevation of the surface of the southern
part of the Basin it becomes necessary to consider not only the elevation of the upper margins
of the slopes, but the altitude of the intersections of their lowest parts. The lowest point of
the slope of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon and Cañada de las Uvas, at its intersection with the
adjoining slopes of the Bernardino Sierra and Lost Mountains opposite, was ascertained to
be 2,380 feet; this being at the level of the dry lake, or level expase of clay generally found at
the bottom of the local basins, when there is not a sufficient supply of water on the adjoining
heights to keep the depression filled. The surface of this dry lake was seen to extend far
towards the north. This dry lake bed may be regarded as the greatest depression of the
southern part of the Basin, except the valley of the Mojave. This river appears to connect à
descending series of local basins, and extends far to the north and east of its sources, and finally
terminates in a dry lake covered with an incrustration of soda and salt. This dry lake has -
elevation of only 1,137 feet, and is probably the lowest point in the whole extent of the Basin.
Itisa much greater depression than was supposed to exist, but itis possible that there are
other very low points among the unexplored mountains and ridges between it and the Sierra
Nevada. i

The upper margins or limits of the slopes—their intersection with the ridges of the bounding
mountains—is well defined, and to an observer on the surface of the Basin appear to be at
nearly the same elevation at all points. A difference in the altitude is, however, shown by the
instrumental results; but these differences are so slight that they may be disregarded in 2
general conception of the configuration of the surface of the Basin. The elevation of the geveral
points from Walker's Pass around the margin of the Basin to San Bernardino may be thus
stated :!

£ I have in some cases added to the elevations as given in Lieutenant Williamson's tables, the observations having been made
in the channels or valleys leading from the passes, and thus below the general surface. In some instances, also, the stations

8
represented in the tables as at the foot of the mountains and at the surface of the Basin were at the lower end of the valley
excavated in the slope, and thus below its upper margin.

AVERAGE ELEVATION OF THE SURFACE—METAMORPHIC ROCKS. 217

: ELEVATION OF THE SLOPES OF THE BASIN.
At Walker's Pass 3,243

At Humpahyamup Pass 3,196
At Taheechaypah Pass 3,668
At Tejon Pass 3,987
At Cañada de las Uvas 3,186
At San Francisquito (Lake Elizabeth) 3,315
At Williamson's Pass 2,962
At Cajon Pass, at the summit, 4,676 ; two miles below, —the true margin of theslope.... 4,179

This gives, as the mean elevation of the margin of the slope, 3,467 feet above the sea. Com-
paring this with the elevation of the foot of the slopes, and disregarding the one great depres-
sion of the sink of the Mojave, we have 2,923 feet as the mean elevation of the surface; but,
considering the opposite elevations of the slopes around the Lost Mountains, it must be a little
over 3,000 feet. This may be regarded as the mean elevation of the surface around and between
the ridges and mountains.

The basin-like structure is not confined to the interval between the Sierra Nevada and the
bounding mountains on the east side, but is characteristic of these ranges also. According to
the observations of Captain Whipple, the mountains between the Colorado and the Mojave,
called the Pai-Ute Range, consist of many rugged ridges and peaks, with elevated valleys
between them. A wide, local basin, with a dry lake at the bottom, is also found in the
mountains east of the Mojave River, at the foot of the slope from the Cajon Pass. A similar
structure is said to characterize the northern end of the Sierra Nevada. The Great Basin may,
in fact, be considered as the flattened crest of a broad mountain chain. It is a succession of
mountains and slopes, upon which the precipitation of water is so slight that the local basins
are not overflowed so as to effect a drainage to the sea.

The barren rocks and the peculiarly regular slopes, free from trees and grass, and looking
like broad ocean beaches, give the whole region the appeafance of having been moulded to its
present shape by the action of water. It seems almost as if it had but recently been covered
by the sea, and that the waters had suddenly drained off. -

GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF THE LOST MOUNTAINS.

The mountains alon g the Mojave River, especially those near the foot of the slope from the
Cajon, are very much broken, and appear to extend to the base of San Bernardino mountain, on .
the south, while on the north they form the flanks and outlying ridges of the Pai-Ute Range.
All the ridges near the Mojave are barren and destitute of soil, and are very rugged and rocky.
Their outlines are very irregular, and some of the subordinate ridges are entirely isolated from
the main range, thus becoming Lost Mountains. When these are short and pointed they
appear at a distance like a series of volcanic cones. The resemblance to cones and cratqrs was so
great, that when I was descending the slope to the Mojave I confidently expected to examine
volcanic phenomena, and was disappointed to find nothing but granitic and metamorphic
rocks,

The rocks on the right bank of the river consist of a belt of metamorphic slates, very com-
pact, and so much changed as to resemble granite. They dip at an angle of 85 degrees, and
are succeeded on the east by compact gray granite, which forms the mass of the ridge.’ It is
much fissured and traversed by enormous veins of feldspar and quartz in coarse masses. This
Sranite is very rough on its surface, and, in places, is covered by immense blocks of the same

! See a small section, Chapter VI, page 64.
28 F

218 GEOLOGY.

rock, piled together in such wild confusion as to become impassable. These accumulations
somewhat resemble the heavy talus at the base of the mural faces of trap in Connecticut, but
the blocks of granite are all large, and no small fragments or earth is seen. The ridge or bluff
from which they appear to be broken is but little higher than the pile of ruins.

Several of the isolated ridges a few miles north of the south end of the Dry Lake, and many
miles west cf the Mojave, were also found to be composed of gray granite, traversed by veins or
dykes of red feldspar and quartz. These feldspathic veins were so enormous and abundant that
the whole slope around the elevation was colored red by the fragments. The gray granite was
found to be rapidly disintegrating, and large blocks of it were found resting upon the surface.

It is doubtless the fact that erupted rocks, trap, porphyry, and the like, have played an
important part in modifying the topography of the Great Basin. Two ridges of porphyry were
found between the granite just described and the Sierra Nevada. The principal outcrop has a
chocolate-brown or reddish color, and includes small white crystals. The rock is also colored
in stripes or belts, like jasper, and is very hard. Erupted rocks also occur along the base, and
in the passes of the Bernardino Sierra, but none were observed in the Sierra Nevada at the
Tejon. Itis probable that many other outcrops will eventually be found within the southern
part of the Basin and north of the ridges mentioned.

It is probable, also, that extinct volcanoes and overflows of lava will be discovered at various
points, on making detailed explorations. During Lieutenant Williamson's examination of the
lower part of the Mojave River, he passed a conical butte of volcanic rock, which, from its nature
and peculiar symetrical appearance, he was disposed to regard as a small volcano. He has
described it in his report in the following words:

** About midway between the peak and the camp was a singular isolated hill, about 300 feet
high. It was composed of very black volcanic rock, and its form that of a very symmetrical.
truncated cone, surrounded at its báse by a circular horizontal bed of the same rock—the cone
being in the centre. This bed was between two and three miles in diameter; its edges well
marked, and rising from two to six feet above the surrounding gravelly plain.’’!

This volcanic butte was about twenty-five miles northeasterly from the Depot Camp on the
Mojave, and I have indicated its position on the General Map. It is worthy of the attention of
explorers who pass that way, and being near the Mormon road may be readily visited.

The observations on the isolated mountains, although limited, were sufficient to sh
they are chiefly composed of granitic rocks. The compact granite appears to predominate,
and no true gneiss or mica slate was seen. The rocks appear to be eruptive rather than meta-
morphic. The outcrop at the Mojave was the only locality at which metamorphic rock was
seen. It is, however, found further north in the Pai-Ute Range. The general distribution of
the outcgops of granite, and the frequent occurrence of a slight knob of rock, hardly perceptible
at a short distance, led me to conclude that the subjacent granite was not far below the gener
surface of the Basin, and that its underground outline was exceedingly irregular, being cu
into a series of valleys and ridges.

ow that

STRATIFIED FORMATIONS—SLOPES.

The sedimentary accumulations, resting upon the granitic rocks of the Basin, appear to be m
paratively modern, or of the period of the Tertiary. These strata are nearly covered from ۴

1 Report of Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, 8vo. edition, page 28.

SLOPES—DRIFT—TERTIARY STRATA—SANDSTONE. 219

by a thick deposit of detritus or drift—the debris of the rocks of the Basin—which forms nearly
the whole surface, and constitutes the material of the slopes. eT

The only points at which the strata are exposed by sections are near the mountains, along the
courses of the principal streams which reach the slopes, or in the banks of the numerous dry
channels, in which no water appears to flow, at least, for the greater part of the year. "There
are many of these sections, but they are of slight depth, and do not extend far from the moun-
tains. Some of these sections exhibit strata of sandstone in highly inclined positions, uncon-
formable with the more recent materials composing the slope. Atother places the strata appear
to be conformable. The uplifted strata occur at several points, and are not only exposed in the
valleys or channels of the streams, but rise above the general level of the slopes. They are
principally sandstone and conglomerates, composed of the debris of granite or of volcanic rocks.
Such strata are visible at the Cajon Pass, Williamson's Pass, Johnson's River, Cotton-wood
Creek, San Francisquito Pass, and near the entrance to the Canada de las Uvas. All these
localities are described in the chapter on the Tertiary formations— Chapter XIII.

At other points around the slope of the Basin sedimentary strata, similar to these just
described, are nearly horizontal, and do not appear to have suffered disturbance, but dip from
the mountains with a gentle inclination, not exceeding five or six degrees, conforming to the
slope of the surface. This is seen in the channel which leads out from the ravine of the Tejon
Pass, and was.also observed in some of the dry ravines in the slope between Johnson's river
and the Cajon. — LI

The materials which form the slopes are generally very different in their appearance from
those of the strata, although, in many places, they are regularly stratified. They are, in
general, coarser and unconsolidated, and appear to be formed from the fragments of the adjoining
ridges. Thus, for a long distance from one of tke isolated granite ridges, containing large
veins of red feldspar, the surface was of the same color, owing to the distribution of the frag-
ments. The gravel was chiefly composed of this feldspar at the distance of ever two miles. So,
also, the gravel of the slope around the ridges of porphyry was principally porphyritic ; and, in
fact, the nature of the rocks of the ridges of that part of the Basin can be determined by the
debris of their slopes. In general, the upper portions of the slopes are composed of coarse
materials, the finer and lighter debris being carried lower down before it is deposited. These
detrital accumulations are believed to attain, at some points, a thickness of over five hundred
feet ; they thus constitute an important feature in the geology of the Basin.

There is much danger of confounding the thick beds of drift, when in regular strata, with the
older stratified deposits of similar materials. The absence of good natural sections along the
undisturbed parts of the Basin-slope often left me in much perplexity to distinguish between
the drift and older strata. For example, at the entrance to the Cajon Pass, the sediments of
the slope form a bluff, turned towards the Pass, in which the nearly horizontal layers are
exposed to view for a dépth of about seven hundred feet. ۱

They do not differ very greatly in lithological characters from the more compact and consoli-
dated strata in the Pass that are highly tilted, but appear to rest upon their upturned edges.
Similar upraised strata were found along Cotton-wood Creek ; there, the drift rests directly upon
the edges, as shown in the little section, page 66, Chapter VII. Whether the strata of the slope
of the Cajon, for the whole thickness of the exposure at the bluff, are composed of detritus alone,
or in part of older sandstone, is not easily decided. More extended observations would probably
remove the doubt. It is probable that the detritus agrees very nearly in its lithological char-

220 GEOLOGY.

acters with the sandstone strata of the Cajon, for it was, no doubt, formed, in great part, from
the abrasion of that sandstone.

The moulding, or form of the slopes, although to a great extent the result of oceanic currents
and waves, is mnch modified by the action of the streams which descend from the surrounding
mountains. It becomes evident, from an examination of the surface, that at certain seasons
these streams become so much swollen that they descend in floods, and spread out, fan-like, over
the basin in a multitude of shallow channels, bringing down great blocks of granite and vast
accumulations of pebbles and earth, and spreading them out over the surface in great
confusion.

These effects, and the general character of the results of the overflow of similar streams, were
well shown by Johnson's River, which is a considerable torrent near the mountains; but a short
distance below, ali timber and green vegetation disappear from its banks, and the bed of the
stream is broad, shallow, and perfectly dry. Itis, however, paved with well-rounded boulders,
-and intersected by numerous minor channels, between banks of gravel and sand, evidently accu-
mulated by the force of a torrent. Great logs of drift-wood are also found lying on the surface
and imbedded in the gravel. The coarser parts of this alluvial drift are found nearest the
mountains, and as the stream descends the slope, and becomes more shallow and diffused, the
drift is smaller and more uniform in size, until it becomes merely gravel and clay. The finer
portions of the drift are thus carried far out from their source, and are deposited on the lower
parts of the slopes. * .

The tendency of all these mountain torrents appears to be towards a general diffusion over
the surface, and not to the formation of a continuous channel. The character of the slope is
thus preserved, although the result is a gradual filling up of all the depressions. In view of
these facts, it becomes interesting to inquire how far the present condition of the surface is due
to oceanic action, or to subsequent aqueous modifications.

DRY LAKES OR PLAYAS.

At the time of the overflow of the mountain streams, the excess of the water that is -
absorbed in its passage over the extended slopes collects together in the numerous basin-like
depressions formed by the intersection of opposite slopes. At such places temporary ponds or
lakes of shallow depth are formed, and the lighter and clayey portions of the surface-drift that
is brought down in suspension is deposited. We had evidence of these results in the numerous
dry lake-beds that we passed over in the lowest parts of the valleys. One of these dry beds,
lying between the Sierra and the range of the Lost Mountains north of the Bernardino Sierra, was
seven miles in leñgth and four or five in width. "The soil was of fine clay, mixed with sand,
the upper or surface layer being of nearly impalpable clay, which the water had left in the form
of a brilliant pelliele. This was entirely dry, and not a trace of moisture could be detected.
The surface was unbroken, and extended in a perfectly level plain, almost as smooth and hard
as a polished table, and resembled the frozen surface of a lake. Such was the mirror-like polish
of the thin clay pellicle, that the peaks of distant Lost Mountains, and small thorny shrubs on
the margin, were as clearly and as distinetly reflected from the surface as they could be from "
sheet of placid water, and it was, indeed, difficult to believe that water did not actually exist
before me. The effects produced by simple reflection from a polished surface are sometimes Con”
founded with those due to refraction, and they are indiscriminately called mirage. It is, how-

SMOOTH SURFACES OF THE DRY LAKES OR PLAYAS—RIVERS. 221

ever, probable that the peculiar illusive appearances of lakes of water, and the distortion of the
images of rocks and trees, so common on plains and deserts, is the result of both reflection and
refraction.

The dry lake-bed was connected by a narrow strait, also dry; with a much broader and longer
lake-bed extending far to the north, among the Lost Mountains. Other similar dry lakes were
found among the ridges east of the Mojave River and at the lower end of this stream, which
appears to terminate in a depression of this kind.

On the hard, dry clay of one of these lake-beds I noticed very peculiar markings, like the
tracks of an animal, extending for long distances in straight lines. These marks consisted of
little depressions recurring at regular intervals; some of them appeared as if formed by the
drawing or trailing of some irregular but light body over the surface when it was moist and
yielding. The similarity between some of these marks and the trails of animals was very
striking, and it was some time before their origin could be ascertained. "They had been pro-
duced by branches of shrubs, with projecting limbs, that had been driven before the wind, the
projecting limbs or knots having made prints at regular intervals by the rapid rotation of the
branch. If such trails were covered up by a fresh deposition of clay, and should be afterwards
exposed to view by splitting the layers, they would possibly be regarded as the tracks of a non-
descript animal.

These broad and smooth lake-beds, unobstructed by vegetation, offer a free scope for the wind,
. Which sweeps over and keeps them perfectly clean, not a particle of sand or loose dust being
allowed to rest on the mirror-like surface. The phenomenon of high, slender, whirlwinds of dust
was often observed when we were in the vicinity of these dry plains. They rise high in the air,
and are very distinct in their outlines; they progress from one side of a lake-bed to the other, or
travel over the more uneven slopes, and do not remain in a perfectly vertical column, but are
curved and bent in various directions, conforming to the currents of the air.

A portion of the clay forming the surface of one of these dry lakes was preserved and exam-
ined by the microscope, without finding any organic remains. It appears to consist principally
of clay and fine sand, and is a stratum that is retentive of moisture. This fact is important in
connexion with the discussion of the probability of obtaining water in the Basin by boring.
According to the descriptions of Lieutenant Parke and others, the dry lakes, or Playas, of the
region south of the Gila, in Sonora, are very similar to those of the Basin, and doubtless have a
similar origin. The region in which they are found is in many respects very much like the
Southern end of the Great Basin. s x

STREAMS AND SPRINGS OF THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE GREAT BASIN.

The dessicating influence which is exerted upon the ocean winds, in their passage towards the
interior, by the lofty summits of the Sierra Nevada is so great as to prevent the precipitation of
much moisture upon the barren ridges of the central parts of the Basin, or upon those ridges
Which are near the eastern foot of the snowy ranges.

A portion of the water which is thus intercepted in its passage to the interior, and deposited
on the Sierra Nevada, flows down in sireams on the interior slopes, and reaches the borders of
the Basin. The quantity thus discharged into the interioris by no means small, but is not
Commensurate with that which flows down on the seaward slope of the chain. On the Basin
side, the streams are few, at great intervals, and are generally short, and of small volume; on
the other, they are numerous, ramified, and by constat confluence produce long and formidable

e

222 GEOLOGY.

rivers. In the northern part of the Basin a few streams of considerable length are found, such
as the Humboldt, Bear River the tributary of the Salt Lake, and Sevier or Nicollet River; but
when we compare their number and extent with those of the much more limited valley of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin, on the opposite side of the Sierra, the extreme aridity and want
of natural irrigation of the region becomes apparent. "The principal streams which flow into
the Basin, in the section which came under our observation, are the Mojave, Johnson's River,
and Cotton-wood Creek. There are others of small extent at the entrance to Taheechaypah
Pass, the Tejon Pass, and one between Cotton-wood Creek and the Mojave.

The Mojave River is one of the principal streams of the Basin, and rises among the ridges of
San Bernardino Mountain, whence it flows northward along the western base of the low granite
range which forms a part of the Pai-Ute range separating the Basin from the Colorado. This river
has been supposed to be a tributary of the Colorado, but the survey of Lieutenant Williamson
has shown that it has no outlet, and, that it sinks away in a dry, basin-shaped depression, or
lake-bed, about one hundred miles from its source. "The first point at which we struck this
river was about twenty miles northeasterly from the Cajon Pass, where the Spanish trail crosses
the stream. At this point the river was a broad but very shallow stream, flowing rapidly in a
bed of sand, without any vestige of rocks or pebbles, except an occasional grain of granite. The
broad, sandy bed resembles that of the Chowchillas River far down in the plain. The imme-
diate or first banks of the stream are low and sandy, and evidently subject to overflow, as was
shown by great accumulations of river-sand on their surfaces. This bank, or “ river-bottom,”
is thickly wooded with cotton-wood and sycamore; (or the plane tree,) and an abundant growth
of willows. I found the temperature of the water on the 21st of October to be 70°, air, 18°
in the shade.

The phenomena of the complete absorption and final re-appearance of streams are well
exhibited by this river. It alternately sinks in the sand, and re-appears suddenly as a running
stream, at points several miles distant; this is repeated several times along its course before its
final absorption. "This stream, and others that flow below the surface of the ground for a part
of their course, are sometimes observed to increase in volume very suddenly, and in those
portions of the stream between two points of subterranean current. This peculiarity was noted
by Mr. Smith, one of the party that journeyed down the Mojave. They crossed the bed of the
stream and found it perfectly dry, and on returning by the same trail, three days after, water
was running over a foot in depth. A short distance above the channel was perfectly dry.

It is very probable that the phenomenon of the re-appearance of these streams above the
ground, after they have once sunk, is due to the uneven surface of underlying impervious
rocks, which, in some places, come so near to the surface that the subterranean water is forced
above it. A sudden increase in the volume of water flowing in such places, although separated
from the upper portions of the main stream by several miles of dry sand and gravel at the
surface, would naturally be the result of a rise in the head-waters of the stream, produced by
rains or rapid melting of snows in the mountains.

It was evident from the appearance of the dry portions of the channel of the river, that at
certain seasons it is much swollen, and that it flows in a continuous, unbroken torrent over the
portions of its channel that become dry during the summer.

Johnson's River rises in the Bernardino Sierra, about half-way between Williamson's Pass
and the Cajón, and was named after one of the men who was sent forward to find water. At
the point where it was crossed by the Eapedition, it was about fifteen feet wide and from eight

RIVERS AND SPRINGS—RETENTIVE STRATA OF CLAY. 993

to ten inches deep. The water was clear and cold, and flowing rapidly over a bed filled with
boulders as large as the head. It was evident, from the character of the channel, that at
certain seasons a great body of water flows down to the slope and is spread out upon it.

Cotton-wood Creek is of much less importance, and at the time of the examination was not a
flowing stream ; but the channel gave evidence of occasional torrents of great volume.

The stream called Agua de Tomaso, or Agua de Tio Mes, which is generally represented on
the maps as a tributary of the Mojave, is merely a spring of bitter water, and does not form a
stream over one hundred yards in length.

Nearly all of the streams which descend from the mountains into the Basin are confined to
the cañons or channels of the slope, and they do not extend far out from the mountains or
spread out over the slopes. "Those which are of great volume, or are swollen by sudden rains
orthe melting of snow, and thus reach the open plain of the slope, become divided up into
numerous shallow beds, and are soon completely absorbed by the sand. This was well exhibited
by Johnson's River, and others. The action of these rivers upon the slopes of the Basin, and
the formation of temporary lakes at the base of the slopes, has already been considered.

Springs.—Several springs were found in different parts of the Great Basin, but generally in
the vicinity of the Lost Mountains. It would appear that the greater part of the water which
is supplied to the Basin by the rivers or by rain sinks immediately away, far below the influence
of the dry atmosphere, in the deep and loose gravelly materials which form the slopes and
occupy its depressio s. This water may not reach the bed-rock of granite, but may pass
through the porous strata until intercepted by an impervious stratum, and be thus collected and
retained in underground reservoirs. From these stores the water occasionally reaches the sur-
face and forms springs. From the nature of the surface of the Basin, and the uneven character
of the underlying rocks, we may venture to conclude that there are many springs throughout
its extent. The short excursion made by Lieutenant Williamson and myself, from the Tejon
towards the Mojave, resulted in the discovery of no less than five springs within a linear distance
of twenty-five miles. These springs were well known to the Indians, and we were guided to
some of them by a Mojave, who probably had often visited them in his journeys to and from the
settlements south of the Cajon Pass. :

At the time of our visit to these springs all the low grounds were completely dry, and there
did not seem to be a possibility of finding water in such barren and desert-like regions. At a
distance, however, of about eight miles from the last water of the Tejon Pass, a green spot of
grass, six or eight yards in diameter, was found, and in the centre a spring of cool, delicious
water. Its temperature was 64°, and the air 90°. The ground was raised about it in a slight
mound, which is probably a result of the accumulation of vegetable matter and sand. It is
about one mile distant from the base of the first Lost Mountain, and, by the aneroid barometer,
is 1,000 feet below the margin of the Basin-slope. Numerous masses of compact white clay,
ànd an unusual amount in the soil, indicated the proximity of underlying clay beds. There
was no outcrop of strata, but it is probable that they rise near to the surface. :

Six miles further east, another spring rises at the base of another rocky ridge. It is not,
however, in the lowest ground, as it is at the upper margin of the long slope flanking the ridge.
It forms a pool about six feet in diameter, containing an abundance of good water, and a small,
trickling stream flowed from it for a few yards. This spring had been much resorted to by
Indians, as the bones of horses and mountain sheep were found around it. Three other springs,
similar to those described, were found, at intervals of from six to ten miles, at different points

224 GEOLOGY.

among the Lost Mountains, all of which appear to be constant and capable of supplying a large
quantity of water.

At our Depot Camp on the Mojave River, the water we used was not obtained from the stream,
but from a large spring gushing out of a bank elevated several feet above the river, and three
or four hundred yards from it. This spring forms a pool about twenty feet in diameter, and
from one to one and a half feet in depth. The bottom is sandy, and a stream of clear water
flows rapidly away from it. This water is warm ; and on cold, frosty mornings, before the sun
has risen, is enveloped in a cloud of fog, or * steam." On the 7th of October, at 2 p. m., I
found its temperature to be 73° F., the air being 60°. On the 8th, at daylight, air 36°, water
72°, and the ground around the spring covered by frost.

There is another large spring on the Spanish trail, not far from the lower end of the Mojave,
called Agua de Tomaso, or Agua de Tio Mes. This is a pool about six feet in diameter,! from
which bitter water flows for about one hundred yards. Three or four smaller springs are found
in the vicinity, or within a radius of fifty yards, and all of them are fringed with grass. These
springs are on the side of the hill, and are constant.

Other springs in this vicinity, and further north, are mentioned by Colonel Fremont. * Some
of these were salt, but others, beyond the stream of bitter water called Armagosa, were fresh `
and excellent. The camping ground called Archilette is in a basin well supplied by springs,
bordered by willows and grass; between this place and Las Vegas there is another, which
Colonel Fremont called Hernandez Spring. The springs called Las Vegas are described as
large and slightly warm, the temperature being 71° to 73°. They form two narrow streams of
clear water four or five feet deep, flowing with a quick current. It is probable that these last
springs are without the crest, or divide, of the boundary of the Basin, being near the sources
of the Rio Virgen, a tributary of the Colorado.

The configuration of the surface of the Basin, and its subordinate interior basins of small
extent, is favorable to the production of springs, and to subterranean currents of water. This
statement is verified by the number and extent of the springs that have been described. In
nearly every case the camping ground of the traveller is not on the bank of a brook or river,
but at springs or pools of water. Even the Mojave, below the point where it sinks for the first
time, may be considered as a chain of springs; for the phenomena of its subterranean flow and
re-appearance at distant points are precisely those of springs, which, in fact, are but outbursts
of underground rivulets or brooks, or the outlets of a collection of water in a basin- shaped
depression, forming a subterranean lake. These natural fountains of water are, indeed, the
only dependence, for days together, of the traveller of those semi-desert regions. No shaded
groves or running streams, bordered by a rich growth of timber, greet his eye; but in some
hidden valley, walled in by brown and sombre ridges, he sees a dark spot on the parched
and sandy surface, and singles it out as his camping place for the night, recognizing in the
familiar tuft of willows indications of the water he so earnestly desires.

POSSIBILITY OF OBTAINING WATER BY ARTESIAN WELLS.
T'he facts which have been presented regarding the rivers and springs of the Basin are suffi-
cient to show that a large and constant supply of water is thrown into it from the interior
slopes of the Sierra Nevada and the Bernardino Sierra.

! According to Lieutenant Williamson, who visited it.
2 Report of an Expedition to the Rocky Mountains, Senate Doc. 174, p. 263-266.

ee ee RA T.

TI NUMEN * SORES aD ee ee en

"PROBABLE SUCCESS OF ARTESIAN BORINGS. ` 225

In addition to the supply from the mountains, a considerable quantity of water is occasionally
received in the form of rain, which partly compensates for the loss by evaporation from the
surface. Thus, during our sojourn at the Depót Camp, at Ocoya creek, in August, the party in
the mountains, near Walker's Pass, experienced a heavy rain, by which they were thoroughly
drenched. It appeared to rain quite as hard upon the surface of the Basin, and its effects were
afterwards seen, although at a distance from the mountains the fall did not appear to have been
very great. ۱

The evidences of the existence of strata of clay underlying the slopes are of great importance
to the determination of the question as to the possibility of obtaining water from ordinary wells
or by boring. Such strata may be regarded as comparatively impervious to water ; and as they
occupy the hollows and basin-shaped depressions between the Lost Mountains, we have most of
the conditions necessary for the successful construction of Artesian wells. These clayey strata
doubtless alternate with beds of sand and gravel, and subterranean waters may either flow
between them or at the bottom of the whole series next to the underlying granite. We have
seen that the underground surface of the granite must be exceedingly irregular. It doubtless
presents a series of ridges and valleys similar to those exhibited in the portions elevated above
the general level of the sedimentary accumulations. These sedimentary strata do not lie in
horizontal planes, but are more or less uplifted ; and even when they rest undisturbed they dip -
gently away from the elevated ridges, as is seen along the base of the Sierra Nevada and Ber-
nardino Sierra wherever sections are exposed. We may therefore conclude that the sediments
conform in their stratification very nearly with the shape of the valleys, so that the lowest
points in each are nearly in the same vertical line.

These conditions should be carefully studied before commencing to bore for water, and it may
be regarded as a general rule that the shape of the surface is, in the main, correspondent with
that of the subjacent granite. In other words, the principal valleys or depressions in the Basin
correspond with the lowest places in the granite.

In these lowest places both the surface-and. subterranean waters collect; and in the rainy
season, when the streams are swollen in the mountains, or during heavy rains, the temporary
shallow ponds are formed, which leave the level expanse of clay or playa on drying up. As in
these low places only the finer portions of the slope are brought down and deposited, it ig
probab® that the clay extends to a great depth, or at least to the surface of older sediments or
the bed-rock of granite, without being mingled with coarse or rudely stratified materials. All
these conditions are favorable to the construction of Artesian wells, and it is probable that water
can be obtained at distances convenient for railroad purposes in the portions of the Great Basin
examined by the Expedition.

. In selecting places for boring operations it will be necessary not only to regard the form of
the surface of underlying rocks, and the dips of the impervious strata, but attention should be
given to the presence and position of ridges or dykes of erupted rocks, which may greatly modify
the general direction of the valleys in the granite, and also act as walls or barriers to the flow
or percolation of the subterranean water. Much assistance in determining the best place to
commence operations may be obtained by observations upon the scanty vegetation. I observed
that in some of the low places, especially where water had been standing, that the tufts of
ft bunch-grass’’ were not only more numerous, but more full and luxuriant, and retained some
traces of green at their roots, while those on the higher parts of the slopes were completely
dried. Other aids in discovering water will be found in currents of cool moist air, and in the
29 F

226 GEOLOGY.

temperature of the surface, for any moist surface exposed to the dry airs of that region suffers
a rapid reduction of temperature in consequence of the evaporation.

The moist, cool air from springs or moist places is quickly perceived by the senses, especially
as the greater part of the atmosphere is dry and warm. Observations at night therefore, with
the hygroscope, and of the temperature of the ground in different depressions would probably
lead to interesting results.

DISTRIBUTION OF PLANTS ON THE SURFACE.

Although the greater part of the surface of the Basin is without trees or shrubs of any mag-
nitude, some portions of the slope, especially near the Cajon Pass, are rendered picturesque by
a growth of cedars or junipers and the yucca or ““ Spanish bayonet tree.””

. VEGETATION OF THE SLOPE OF THE BASIN NEAR THE AJON PASS

This plant grows to a great size, and forms a thick grove in some places, giving a tropical
aspect to the landscape. It was observed in the channel leading to the Tejon Pass and to the
Cañada de las Uvas,! and at various points around the margin of the Basin; also on the slopes
flanking the Lost Mountains. Several of the trees near the Spanish trail were eighteen or
twenty inches in diameter at the base, and twenty to twenty-five feet high. It generally rises
in one straight trunk or column, from three to fifteen feet high ; but near the Cajon it branches
out and attains a great breadth of top. Green leaves or spines are chiefly confined to the last
two or three feet of tops of the plants, or at the ends of the short and thick limbs. The leaves

! See View XI.

VEGETATION OF THE SLOPE OF THE BASIN. 227

lower down become dry and yellow, and then hang downwards over the trunk, overlapping like
shingles. Every leaf is as sharp as a thorn at the end, and is very stiff.

The unequal distribution of plants upon the surface is worthy of notice, and is distinctly ob-
servable along the Spanish trail, which traverses the long slope from the Cajon to the Mojave
river. In descending this slope a succession of belts or zones are passed, in each of which some

particular plant or group of plants predominates, and determines the aspect of the surface.

At the summit of the Pass, the dwarf oaks and deciduous shrubs are the most abundant. They
are succeeded by a belt of low, dwarf cedars, which spread out over a large surface of ground,
but seldom attain a height of over fifteen feet. Larrea Mexicana is found mingled with them.
Lower down on the slope the cedar is replaced by the peculiar yucca; and towards the foot of the
slope, at the Mojave, this gradually disappears, and the surface supports a growth of low thorny

shrubs, which are almost without leaves, and seem to consist of a mere aggregation of thorns.

These plants exist in great variety, and may be found among the other plants on almost all
parts of the slope. At the foot of the slope, along the river, we find cotton-woods, willows, and
the mezquit.

There is not any sufficiently well-marked difference in the chemical constitution of the soil at
the parts of the slope occupied by different plants to authorize the supposition that their unequal
distribution may be thus explained. The only variation appears to be, that the upper portions
of the slope are of coarser materials than the lower portions. The explanation of this phenom-
enon of distribution cf the plants in successive belts or zones is doubtless to be found in the
climatic conditions which exist at the different altitudes. The variation of the humidity of the
atmosphere at the different elevations is probably the principal modifying cause.

CHAPTER XVII.
THE COLORADO DESERT.

EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES OF THE DESERT.—DESERT BEYOND THE COLORADO.—SURFACE OF THE DESERT.—HARD OCLAY.—SLOPES,—
UNDULATING HILLS OF SAND.— LEVEL AND HIGHER PLAIN COVERED WITH PEBBLES.—SILICIFIED FOSSILS.—POLISHED SURFACES OF THE
PEBBLES.—POLISHED AND BLACKENED ROCKS.—ABRASION AND POLISHING PRODUCED BY DRIVING SAND.—-ELEVATION OF THE SURFACE
OF THE DESERT.-—DEPRESSION OF A PORTION BELOW THE SEA-LEVEL.— TERRACES.— NEW RIVER. —GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.—META-
MORPHIC ROCKS.—A LLUVIUM, ITS EXTENT AND LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS.—FossILS.—TERTIARY STRATA. —FOSSILS. —ANCIENT LAKE.—

POSITION OF THE SAND-HILLS DETERMINED BY THE TERRACE.—OUTLINE OF THE SAND-HILLS.— THE SAND NOT AN OBSTACLE TO THE CON-
STRUCTION OF A RAILROAD.—SOURCES OF WATER ON THE DESERT.—NEW RIVER.—ÜOOK'8 WELL.—ALAMO WELL.—SODA SPRINGS.—SALT
LAGOON.—DISTANCES BETWEEN LOCALITIES OF WATER.— NECESSITY FOR WELLS.—ARTESIAN WELLS.—AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES OF
THE DESERT.—BOTTOM-LAND OF THE COLORADO AND GILA.—ÜOHUILLA VILLAGES.—NECESSITY FOR IRRIGATION.—IRRIGATION BY NEW
۳۳ RIVER. —ÜLIMATE AND WINDS.—ÜLEARNESS OF THE AIR.—COLORS OF DISTANT MOUNTAINS.—MIRAGE — EFFECT OF THE CLIMATE ON THE
YEGETATION. e
The region of country known as the Colorado Desert is a long plain or valley west of the
Colorado River, near its mouth. It extends from the base of Mount San Bernardino to the head
of the Gulf of California, and is separated from the coast-slope by the Peninsula Mountains.
The limits of the plain on the north and northeast are determined by the ranges of mountains
which extend from San Bernardino Mountain to the mouth of the Gila and beyond into Sonora.
On the south and east, the Desert is bounded by the Colorado River and the Gulf. The area
thus bounded is a long and nearly level plain, extending in a northwest and southeast direction,
from latitude 34° on the north to the parallel of 32° on the south. Its greatest length in this
direction, from the base of San Bernardino Pass to the Gulf, is one hundred and eighty miles,
or, measuring from the base of the Pass’to the mouth of the Gila, it is one hundred and forty
miles. Its greatest width is about seventy-five miles, measured in a north and south direction
along the Colorado River, between the head of the Gulf and the mountains north of Fort Tons,
The plain narrows as it extends back from the Colorado River, and opposite Carrizo Creek s
width is reduced to between sixty and seventy miles, and still further westward, near to its
extremity at the San Bernardino Pass, it will not average over twenty-five miles. These
measurements are approximate, and give for the whole area, west of the Colorado, about 8,250
square miles, or, including a portion of the plain beyond the river, about 9,000 square miles.
A similar Desert borders the Colorado River on the east side, and appears to extend for a long
distance up the Gila, and to reach to the foot of a range of mountains in Sonora, but, a8 eus
exploration did not extend so far as to ascertain the boundaries, it is not included in the descrip-
tion. "The coloring on the map is, however, extended so as to indicate the geological character
of that part of the region near the river. ۱
The exact parallelism of the valley of the Desert with the coast, and with an intermediate
line, formed by a succession of the narrow valleys of Vallecito, San Felipe, Warner’s, and the
San Luis River, and also with the Bernardino Pass, is worthy of notice. It is
exhibited by the distribution of the colors of the map. They clearly mark out the direction an

N AN Salt Creek \

War Department .
GEOLOGICAL MAP
OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
SAN DIEGO AND THE COLOR ADO RIVER
CALIFORNIA .
Prepared in Office of PRR Exp 8, Surveys.
۹ ByW.P.BLAKE
ScaleL608228.
"a 1855 .

U.S.P RR EXPLORATIONS & SURVEYS ۱ |

\ Salt Pond
>

«Soda Springs

LU 6rarttic. & Metamorphic .
TEEN ptt Tgp ks.
| | Lertiary and. Detritus

LOWER

CALIFORNI

x: 5 :
n f `, Mud Valcano

[| Alluvial of the Desert . |

[| Sand Mills and Drifts. =

MN NE | Ri

Statute Miles 3

| de 50 40 — 30 20 10 0 50

E nz 116 :

+

-

SURFACE OF THE COLORADO DESERT. 229

prevailing trend of the granitic elevations to which the region owes its configuration. A pre-
dominant northwest and southeast trend of the prineipal lines of elevation is said to characterize
the mountain ranges along the Gila River.! It is also visible, in detail, in the range on the
north of the Desert, where the ridges project in a series of overlapping points, forming long and
re-entering angles. This appears to result from a series of parallel ridges succeeding each other
from west to east, and overlapping towards the southeast. This composite character will be
found in nearly all of the mountain ranges of California ; but, so far as my observations have
extended, this is the only instance where the overlapping of the ridges is towards the southeast;
it is generally the reverse, or towards the northeast.

ASPECT OF THE SURFACE OF THE DESERT.

Before I reached the surface of the Desert I had been accustomed to regard it as a vast plain
of gravel and sand, and supposed that the latter was so deep as to impede the progress of
animals and wagons. This, I believe, corresponds with the general impression regarding the
Desert. Instead, however, of the whole plain being composed of loose and sandy materials, a
great part of it is formed of a compact, blue clay, which has a smooth, floor-like surface, so
hard that the passing of mules and wagons scarcely leaves a mark upon it. This hard clay is

principally confined to the central and lower parts of the Desert, but at some places reaches to -

the foot of the mountains. It appears to be the extension of the alluvium of the Colorado, and
reaches from its banks, and from the head of the Gulf, as ‘far as the base of San Bernardino
Mountain. Its breadth of surface is variable, but the road from the mouth of the Gila to
Carrizo Creek is upon it for nearly the entire distance. . Extensive portions of the Desert are,
however, very different. We find in some places long and gentle slopes bordering the moun-
tains, nearly as in the Great Basin ; and in others, level plains, nearly or quite flat, and raised
above the general level of the alluvium or clay. To the traveller, the surface appears nearly
level, but here and there, gentle, local undulations are found, and are caused by accumulations
of blown sand mingled with a portion of clay and partly hardened, so as not to be shifted by the
wind. Other and more recent accumulations form long belts of hills with rounded outlines,
and consist entirely of clean, dry sand, which flows from the hand like water, and is at the
mercy of the wind. The surface of the slopes is variable, but, in general, is gravelly and
firmly impacted, so that it is easily travelled over with wagons. A portion of the slope on the
western side of the Desert, between the emigrant road and the Cohuilla villages, is strewn with
masses of rock, from four to twelve and fifteen inches in diameter ; but this was the only point
at which transported fragments were found of such great size. The central or lower portions
of the Desert are entirely free from them. The upper plain, or that part of the Desert north of
Pilot Knob, and at an elevation of about thirty feet above the clay formation, has not the
character of a slope, but is a true plain, with a uniform surface of pebbles, and but little or no
fine gravel or sand. From Fort Yuma this plain is seen on all sides, extending back to the
base of the mountains, and is a perfectly barren waste traversed by the Colorado and the Gila ;
their ehannels and borders of fertile land being marked by green vegetation. South of the
mouth of the Gila, the plain approaches near to the Colorado on itseastern bank, and forms a
long bluff or terrace, similar to that north of the stream, at its bend between the Gila and Pilot
Knob. This plain may be considered as the true or most perfect desert, being without soil,
Vegetation, or water, and the source from which the greater part of the sand is derived.

1 W. H. Emory, U. 8. Top. Eng., Rep. Ex. Doc. 30th Cong., Ist sess., p. 98.

230 GEOLOGY.

The surface of this plain is paved with small pebbles of various hard rocks, principally of
volcanie origin, including variously colored porphyries, agates, and carnelians. Specimens of
silicified wood are also numerous, All the pebbles are beautifully rounded and water-worn,
showing that they have long been subjected to attrition, and indicating that they have been
transported for great distances. In some places the pebbles are so thickly spread that the sur-
face is entirely formed of them, and no sand or soil is visible. They are also packed together so
closely, and lie so even, and are so uniform in size, that the surface is like a floor. Indeed the
pebbles look as if they had been pressed into a yielding surface by a heavy roller.

These pebbles have a peculiar polished and brilliant surface, looking as if they had been oiled
or varnished. The effect produced by the reflection of the sun's rays, from a plain covered with
these polished convex pebbles, can scarcely be imagined ; each one gives back a ray of light,
and the ground seems paved with gems. It is somewhat like the glittering reflection from the
ripples of a sheet of water.

All this polishing is undoubtedly produced by the constant action of loose sand upon the
surface, when driven by the wind. The fact that all the fine sand or dust is removed from
between the pebbles near the surface, while it is abundant a few inches below, indicates that the
winds have gradually blown it away, leaving the heavy pebbles behind. They thus protect the
sand that lies below them. Indeed, the protective power of this surface of pebbles is worthy of
remark ; for, if they were removed, it could not be long before the thick, underlying strata of
sand would be blown away by the impetuous winds of that region. The equivalent of this
plain of pebbles does not appear to exist on the western side of the Desert, or at least on that
part of it north of Carrizo Creek, unless we so regard the flat-topped hills formed by the strata
in the valley of Carrizo Creek. These are not horizontal, and do not form a continuous plain,
but are surmounted by a pebbly drift very similar to that north of Pilot Knob, although coarser,
and mingled with larger blocks. A great number of these pebbles are silicious, and full of
fossils. These are apparently of the Paleozoic and Secondary periods, and, also, of the Ter-
tiary. Many of them are very beautiful; the sections of the silicified shells or corals being
visible on the rounded and polished surfaces. Several of these pebbles were obtained on Pilot
Knob, but specimens of much greater interest and beauty were afterwards collected by Major
George H. Thomas, U. S. A., commanding at Camp Yuma, and presented to me." Most of
the fossils are corals, and are probably Carboniferous.

The rocks around the Desert, especially those on the northern side, rising above the pebbly
plain, partake of the general polishing. Pilot Knob is, perhaps, one of the best examples.
The surfaces are not merely polished, but are discolored ; a large portion being as black as
ebony, and yet having the ordinary gray color of granite or gneiss within. A dark, blackish-
brown is a common tint, but it is so deep that it is impossible to decide upon the nature of the
rock without first breaking off a fragment. The discoloration is confined to the surface, and
does not extend to a perceptible depth. It is found alike on the rocks, pebbles, and specimens

* One of these pebbles of a dark color has a conical cavity in one side nearly half an inch deep, and marked on the sides by
longitudinal septe. It is the silicified imprint or portion of a coral allied to the Cyathophylle. The structure of the coral is 7
clearly shown. It is without transverse septa, and this indicates its modern or Cretaceous age. In another specimen the sep
are distinct, and it is probably Carboniferous.

One of the specimens, of a dark chocolate-brown color, is filled with small, white fossil shells, discoid, and app
in the centre, like Nummulites. Some of the sections exposed on the worn surface are like those of Fusilina
probable the fossils may be appropriately referred. The pebbles containing stems of encrinites are the most numerous. ^
regretted that it has not been possible, since the specimens were received, to prepare sections and give them that close examina"
tion which they deserve. Specimens are deposited in the collection, No. 401. "

arently thickest
, to which it is
It is

BLACKNESS OF THE ROCKS—ABRASION BY SAND. 231

of silicified wood. A pepple of white quartz had a red surface, looking asif it had been painted.
A peculiar “inky blackness”” of the rocks around the Egyptian Deserts has been noticed by
travellers, and is, doubtless, similar in its origin. Humboldt observed that the granite along
the Orinoco had acquired a grayish-black coating wherever it had been in contact with water,}
and that it was not found along those rivers which have black or coffee-brown waters. The
source of the coloring is thus indicated to us, and it may be that the rocks along the Colorado,
and the pebbles of the Desert, received, during their submergence, a coating of organic matter,
which, under the burning rays of the sun in that almost rainless region, has become a perfect
lacquer. A similar discoloration was observed within the limits of the Great Basin, on the
banks of the Mojave, several feet above the present reach of the stream. The outcrops of gneiss
were so black that the rock could not be recognized without breaking it.

The wonderful abrading effects produced by the moving sand in the lower part of the Pass of
San Bernardino, near the margin of the Desert, are described in Chapter VIII. A figure is
also given illustrating the effect of the sand upon vertical surfaces of the rock, where it was
composed of minerals differing in their hardness, as in quartz and feldspar. The effect of this
driving sand is, however, much more vividly shown at the locality by the grooved and polished
surfaces of the rock. Specimens of the rock, abraded and smoothed in this manner were

GRANITE FURROWED AND POLISHED BY MOVING SAND,

obtained, and the attempt has been made to represent the surface by a figure, but with indif-
ferent success, The number of small grooves and channels on the sides of the principal grooves
could not be fully represented.?

1 I find the following note upon this subject in Humboldt’s Views of Nature, Bohn’s Edit., 1850, page 141. In the Orinoco,
and more especially at the cataracts of Maypures and Atures, (not in the Black River or Rio Negro,) all blocks of granite,
even-pieces of white quartz, wherever they come in contact with the water, acquire a grayish-black coating, which
penetrate 0.01 ofa line into the interior of the rock. The traveller might suppose that he was looking at basalt or fossils,

Rozier, in the syenitic rocks of the Nile, (near Syene and Phile ;) by the unfortunate Captain Tuckey, on the rocky banks of
the Saire ; and by Sir Robert Schomburgk, at Berbice. On the Orinoco these leaden-colored ro pposed, when wet, to
give forth noxious exhalations ; and their vicinity is believed to be conducive to the generation of fevers. It is also remarkable
that the South American rivers generally, which have black waters, (aguas negras,) or waters of a coffee-brown or wine-yellow
tint, do not darken the granite rocks; that is to say, they do not act upon the stone in such a manner as to form, from its
Constituent parts, a blac’ or leaden-colored crust. ۱

This engraving was n. t received in season to be inserted in Chapter VIII.

232 GEOLOGY.

The polish of the pebbles, and the lustre of the blackened rocks, are doubtless due to a similar
action of sand, or rather, of a much finer-grained sand and dust, driven to and fro by the winds,
and not progressing in any one direction only, as in the gorge of the Pass.

A pebble of a stratified rock, in silicious layers, some harder than the others, found near the
Alamo Well, was cut on all sides, so that the hardest layers stood outin relief. "This specimen
had evidently been cut while lying loosely on the surface, for the cutting had taken place on
all sides alike. That its form was not due to solution of the softer parts by water was proved,
not only by the hardness of the surface, but by the presence of little grooves, along which the
sand had travelled, precisely as upon the rocks of San Gorgoño. Many of the specimens of
silicified wood, found upon the surface of the Desert, are cut so deeply in grooves that it seems
probable that they are less than half of their original size. The surfaces of such specimens are
perfectly smooth, but are without that fine polish seen on the pebbles of the upper plain. The
specimens which are exposed upon the open plain, where the wind is variable, and is constantly
shifting the coarsest sand, are acted upon with much greater rapidity than on the upper plain,
where it is believed the coarse sand has long since been chiefly rernoved by the prevailing north
wind, leaving the pebbles to be acted on by the fine dust alone.

ELEVATION OF THE SURFACE—TERRACES.

No part of the Desert is much elevated above the level of the sea, and there is great reason
to believe that most of the surface north of the emigrant road, from the Gila to the coast, is
below it. It is below the level of the Colorado River, the stream having banks more elevated
than the surface of the country a few miles back of it, as in the Mississippi and other rivers
which carry down large quantities of silt and overflow their banks. "That these conditions
exist in that region is proved by the fact that the overflow from the Colorado extends inland
for about sixty miles, and sometimes forms a deep and rapidly flowing stream. This establishes
the fact of a great depression, but it was likewise shown by the barometrical observations on the
portion of the Desert still further north, and beyond the known limits of the overflow from the
river. Thus, at the Cohuilla Springs, November 18th, a depression of 81 to 99 feet below mid-
tide was indicated ; again, on the 20th, at the camp on Salt Creek, the mean of five observa-
tions shows a depression of 42 feet. At these stations it was evident that there was much lower
ground beyond, nearer to the middle of the Desert. This became very evident when the plain
was viewed from the base of the mountains on the west side, near the point of rocks, on which
the water-line of the ancient lake was so distinctly seen.

From this point of view the ground appeared to slope off very gradually to the centre of the
valley, about fifteen miles distant. The depression appeared to be as much as 500 feet. The
extent of this depression, and the geological structure of that part of the Desert, is shown on
Section 12, Sheet VIII. It is certain that this part of the Desert is lower than the banks of the
Colorado. This is proved by the overflow of the river and the cu rent to the interior along the
extended channel of New River. The surface of the Desert, therefore, ascends, slope-like,
towards the Colorado. This observation will probably apply to the alluvial deposits of e.
Desert only ; the upper or pebbly plain of the Desert probably does not partake of the inclina-
tion, but remains nearly horizontal. It is probable, however, that on the northwestern margın
of this plain it does not form a bluff or terrace, as along the course of the river and at Pilot Knob.

站 ee =p at a ae
j : TET

VALLEY BELOW THE SEA-LEVEL—TERRACES OR PLAINS. 233

It is believed that it gradually breaks down into a slope and thus becomes merged in the general
slope of the Desert.

In crossing the Desert, several banks or terraces are ascended and descended. One is found
at the Alamo Well, and another at Cook's Well. It is impossible to decide whether these banks
are continuous between the two points, or whether they mark the limits of two plains or terraces
at different elevations. It is believed that they do, and that other and intermediate banks or
terraces are found between the Colorado and the lowest part of the Desert. At the Colorado,
only two terraces are found—the bottom-land and the upper plain covered with pebbles. But
further inland the banks or terraces are very different, being formed of clay, and it is probable
that an intermediate terrace is formed between the bottom-land and the upper plain. This
indicates an increased difference of level between the bottom-land and the upper plain, a condi-
tion which must of necessity exist if the upper plain does not conform in its descent to the
channel of New River. We may conclude, that on the Desert there are at least three terraces,
or plains, marked by abrupt descents.

The first or lowest, borders the Colorado and forms its bank; the second, forms a bluff at
Cook's Well and beyond, and the third is the high pebbly plain of the Desert. The first terrace
is properly the river-bottom, and is subject to partial overflow. It is formed of a fine alluvial
clay from the river, and is well wooded near the river with a growth of willows and cotton-
wood trees. Near the head of the Gulf, this terrace, or possibly one at a lower level, is over-
flowed during the spring tides. It is traversed in many places by dry arroyos and is watered
by New River, which holds a relation to it like that of the Colorado.

The second terrace is composed of an older alluvion, being entirely of clay, without sand or
gravel. The extent and boundaries of this terrace are not accurately known. It forms a steep
bank above Cook's Well, and may extend to the Alamo, where there isa similar bank. Its
elevation probably diminishes towards the Colorado until it becomes merged in the first terrace
near the Indian village, or Algodones. The trail follows this terrace, or plain, for a long
distance, and the surface is wooded in some places by mezquite bushes. It is probable that
the surface of this plain gradually descends towards the interior, conforming to the inclination
of the first terrace.

The third terrace forms the highest plain of the Desert. Its margin is seen in the vertical
banks which overhang the bottom-land of the Colorado and Gila. It also extends from Pilot
Knob westward, and borders the north side of the road as far as a point about half way between
Cook’s Well and the Alamo. Its extent beyond this point is not known, but it is supposed to
break down into a gradual slope to the level of the second terrace. The road is believed to
ascend this slope between the Alamo and Cook's Well, and thus to be for a part of the way
"pon the upper plain. This denuded or broken part of the upper plain is not, however, like
the surface around Pilot Knob and the Sand-Hills; it is without many pebbles, and is more
sandy. :

The probable extent of the third or upper plain is readily seen upon the map, it being colored
asP ost-Tertiary. I have also endeavored to represent the general character of these terraces, and
their relation to the Sand-Hills, by a section from north to south between Cook's Well and the
Alamo—Section 14, Sheet VIII. ;

All these terraces become merged into a continuous slope between the Alamo and the Big
Lagoon. Thus, in passing from Carrizo Creek towards the Gila, the traveller, after descending
to the level of the Lagoon, ascends by almost imperceptible degrees to the surface of the upper

30 F

234 GEOLOGY.

plain. The abrupt terraces, therefore, exist only along the Colorado, and as far west as the
narrow part of the alluvial clay formation, a few miles west of the Alamo.

It appears from the observations of Mr. Charles H. Poole, of the United States land survey,
that the surface of the Desert, northerly from the Big Lagoon, is a gradual slope, and that a
very considerable depression exists in that direction. This slope appears to extend from the
low ground to the level of the upper plain, without any break corresponding to the terraces
that have been described. Mr. Poole also states that a distinct beach-line extends along this
slope, and marks the shore of a former sheet of water.

The dry arroyo, or canal-like water-course, which was found between the lagoons, is in all
probability the channel of New River. This stream derives its supply from the Colorado only
at times of high water, and it is probably fed through numerous and ramified channels of slight
depth. The precise locality of the entrance to the stream is not known; this renders it more
probable that there is not a well defined channel at the Colorado, but that the water spreads
over the banks and afterwards collects into one channel.

GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.

The geological structure of the Desert is very simple. "The bluish clay is of alluvial or
lacustrine origin, and the gravelly plains or low hills around the bases of the mountains are
Tertiary or Post-Tertiary. The only other formations known are the granitic and metamorphic
rocks of the mountains on each side, with erupted dykes here and there.

The metamorphic rocks of the mountains on the western side of the Desert have already
| been sufficiently described in the Itinerary. Nearly all the points of rock that we passed were
highly laminated, and contained lenticular beds of limestone. The peculiar angular character
of most of the outerops is well exhibited by View XIII. In this instance the rocks rise above
the level surface of the alluvium or clay of the Desert. The point of rocks forming the end of
one of the long and high ranges extending on the northeastern side of the Desert is also meta-
morphic, if the structure of the rock is regarded as good evidence of it. It is laminated and
gneissoidal. The relative position of the ridges, their parallelism, and overlapping one beyond
another, is regarded as indicative of their stratified origin and subsequent plication. The out-
crop at Pilot Knob is very probably a continuation of one of these ridges, or the summit of
another, in great part buried by the Tertiary of the Desert. At Fort Yuma the rock is eruptive,
or so far metamorphosed as to lose all traces of a sedimentary origin. It is a dense porphyritic
granite. The ranges extending from the Gila southeasterly through Sonora are properly a
prolongation of the chain bounding the Desert on the northeast, and, without doubt, present à
a similar geological structure. This chain is very much broken, and partakes of the character
of the short, overlapping ridges of the Great Basin.

Of the sedimentary and recent formations of the Desert, the alluvium has by far the gr eatest
extent of surface, and is connected with the bottom-land of the Colorado. It, in fact, may be
said to extend from the borders of the stream and the head of the Gulf for about 170 miles
northwest to the base of the Bernardino Pass. Where first seen—at the Deep Well on the south-
eastern side of San Gorgofio mountain—it was a fine blue clay, mingled with sand, and it had
nearly the same appearance and composition in all of the ravines that were crossed in the transit
from the Pass to Carrizo Creek. In some places a part of the clay was observed to have a reddis
color, and this was particularly the case at tho Alamo Well. The clay at the Deep Well was
more sandy than at other localities, it generally being very fine and indurated, so that it could

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1
Fi
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ry

EXP & SURVEYS -

S.P R R,

D

TERTIARY AND POST-TERTIARY FOSSILS—ANCIENT LAKE. 235

be broken out in blocks. The lines of stratification were very numerous and horizontal ; this,
with the absence of coarse materials, indicating that the water from which it was deposited was
comparatively quiet. The fossils found in this clay, at different points over a distance of nearly
one hundred miles, show the lacustrine origin of the greater part of it. All the shells that
were collected were submitted to Dr. Augustus A. Gould, of Boston, for examination, and his
descriptions accompany this report. He finds them to consist of the following species, four of them
being new: Gnathodon Lecontei, Conrad ; Planorbis ammon, Physa humerosa, Amnicola protea,
and Amnicola longinqua.! In addition to these, Anodonta Californiensis, Lea, was very abundant,
especially in the northern part of the Desert. These show the deposit to be of fresh-water origin;
the Gnathodon, however, is a brakish water genus, and is found in the mud of estuaries. This shell
was not seen in the northern part of the Desert, where the others were most abundant, but was pro-
cured for the first time near Salt Creek, about twenty miles north of the entrance to Carrizo Creek.

The Tertiary is also characterized by the fossils obtained at Carrizo Creek. "These are found by
Mr. Conrad to be new species of Ostrea, Pecten, and Anomia, and he has named them as follows:
Ostrea vespertina, O. Heermani, Anomia subcostata, Pecten Deserti.?—(See Appendix, Article II,
and Plate V, figs. 36, 37, 38, fig. 34, and fig. 41.) They are believed to be of the age of the
Miocene. These were the only fossils found in the strata around the Desert. There is little
doubt that the strata containing such vast numbers of concretions outcroping north of Salt Creek,
and those seen between the Hot Spring and the base of the Pass of San Bernardino, together
with those forming the bank or terrace between Pilot Knob and Fort Yuma, are of similar
age. The horizontal beds around Pilot Knob, bearing the stratum of conglomerate at the sum-
mit, are much more sandy and modern in their appearance than the fossiliferous series of Carrizo
Creek, and it is very probable that they are more recent, and superimposed upon the Miocene
strata. "There is little doubt that the Miocene underlies the alluvium of the Desert, and it will
probably be found along the base of the mountains on the northeast side in outcrops similar to
those on the west.

ANCIENT LAKE.

The former existence of an extensive fresh-water lake in the northern part of the Desert is
shown not only by the extended deposit of alluvial or lacustrine clay, containing fossils, but by
the existence of extended shore-lines and beaches along the sides of the bordering mountains.
The great depression of the surface below the level of the Colorado, and probably below the level
of the Gulf, shows also the probability that the region was once submerged. The extent of this
submergence, or the limits of the former sheet of water, is now indicated to us by the fine clay
Which must have subsided from it. The extent of this clay is shown upon the map. In the
northern part of the Desert it is seen to reach nearly from one side of the valley to the other,
While on the southeast it reaches to the head of the California Gulf. "There is no barrier in that
direction, and it is impossible to resist the conviction that the waters of the Gulf once occupied
the whole space, and extended up to the base of the San Bernardino Mountain. The valley of
the Desert is, in fact, but the northern end of the great valley occupied by the Gulf, and the
probability that it was once submerged is exceedingly strong. When, however, we consider the
fact of the former existence of a great lake, and the peculiar configuration of the valley and its
relation to the Colorado River, it becomes almost certain that the waters of the Gulf did cover
the region, extendin g nearly one hundred and seventy miles further inland. "Thus, if the

ces Plate XI and Appendix, Article IH.
Descriptions of these were published in connexion with the Preliminary Report, H. Doc. 129, 1855.

236 GEOLOGY.

alluvial deposits of the Colorado River were removed, it is probable that the Gulf would extend
as far north as the base of San Gorgoiio and San Bernardino. Under the supposition that in
this way the Gulf formed a long, narrow bay, reaching far above the mouth of the Colorado, the
retrocession of the water and the formation of a great lake 1s readily explained.

The raised banks of the Colorado show the vast amount of sediment that has accumulated
along its course, and that has been discharged into the Gulf. The clay of the northwestern
part of the Desert is similar in its character to that forming these banks, and it must be regarded
as derived from the same source. Itis probable that only the heavier and coarser materials
were deposited near the stream, and by their accumulation displaced the waters of the Gulf,
and formed a broad delta. "The encroachment of this delta, and its final extension to the oppo-
site shore, was sufficient to shut off the waters of the upper end of the Gulf, leaving them in the
condition of a lake, connected with the river and the Gulf by a narrow channel or slough. The
peculiar configuration of the valley was highly favorable to such a result. The waters of the
Gulf formed a long and narrow bay, extending one hundred and seventy miles inland, north-
west of its present limits ; the Colorado entered at its narrowest part, one hundred and forty
miles below its upper extremity, and below its most contracted part; the current came in at
right angles to its general direction, and thus the suspended alluvion was spread out in the
waters at the point where the division of the Gulf could be most rapidly effected, and under
circumstances favorable for its subsidence. Under these conditions, the channel connecting the
upper and lower portions of the Gulf, must have gradually become more and more shallow, and
the continued growth of the delta must have filled it up, so that the tide could no longer ebb
and flow to the upper end, thus forming a lake, its only barrier on the south being the silt and
mud of the Colorado. This barrier was probably an extended flat, and not a narrow bar, for
the silt was undoubtedly much spread about by the tides, and the current caused by the influx
of the river. A very considerable portion of the silt was doubtless carried to the extreme
northern part of the Gulf, forming the foundation for the superstratum of clay of lacustrine
origin which we now find there. The accumulation, however, was undoubtedly most rapid and
deep opposite the mouth of the river, and it must have formed an effectual barrier between one
part of the Gulf and the other. It must have been covered by only a few feet of water, and was
thus left entirely bare at low tides. Such conditions were most favorable for the rapid growth
and transformation of the flats to dry land or salt marsh. Every great freshet in the stream
must have made great additions to it, until at length it was submerged only when the tides
were very high, and the river was much swollen. In that climate, a surface of mud exposed to
the sun and air, and so well watered, must have been covered with a luxuriant growth of tule,
grass, and other vegetation ; and it doubtless existed for a long time as a low swamp, traversed
in every direction by sloughs and channels. ۱

It is probable that even after the delta had so far grown as to be above the water, there were
numerous, narrow, canal-like channels between the river and the lake, or between the lake and
the Gulf; so that the water in the lake was constantly retained at the same level. That the
lake received its supply of water, in great part, from the river, is shown by the fact that it was

fresh-water, or but slightly saline ; the presence of salt or brackish water being proved by the
fossil shell Gnathodon Lecontei. The great deposition of clay containing the shells probably
took place in this way ; the current of the river being at times, if not constantly, turned in that
direction. In this case the excess of water, if not removed by evaporation, must have flowed
out into the Gulf by some channel further south. It is not impossible that the Colorado once

FORMATION OF THE ANCIENT LAKE—PROBABLE EVAPORATION OF THE WATER. 237

B
flowed along the line of banks or terraces near Cook's Well and the Alamo, and after depositing
its silt in the quiet water of the lake, escaped into the Gulf, at some point near or below the
present entrances to New River. "With the immense quantities of silt that the Colorado brings
down, even now, such conditions could not long remain, and the river must have been turned
towards the more open wáters of the Gulf by the resistance of its own depositions, After the
lake had become deprived of its supply of water from the river, and its communication with the
Gulf became closed, except, perhaps, at seasons of freshets, it must have undergone rapid
evaporation, especially in that region of violent, arid winds, pouring in from the surrounding
deserts and over the mountains from the sea. The great rapidity of evaporation in the climate
of the Tulare Valley has been shown, and it is not difficult to comprehend that this cause was
sufficient to remove all the water from the lake in the course of a few years.

Some of the conditions which have been detailed as probable are still found to exist. The
Colorado yet continues to overflow at seasons of high water, and the water runs backward for
sixty miles, and forms a chain of small lakes or ponds; the water in these evaporates rapidly,
and disappears soon after the supply ceases. We find an extensive area of low and marshy land
around the head of the Gulf, which is annually overflowed and covered by quantities of silt spread
out upon it by the Colorado. Father Consag, who made the first survey of the Gulf in 1746,
ascending as far as the mouth of the Colorado, describes the land about it as low and marshy ;
the mud being red, and so soft that it would not support the men when they stepped out upon it.!
The enormous quantities of silt carried down by the river is shown not only by the dark-red
color of its water, but by the discoloration that it produces in the water of the Gulf, which was
formerly called the Vermillion Sea, probably from its red color.

Changes very similar to this displacement of the waters of the Gulf and the formation of a
lake have taken place in other parts of the world, and it is not at all surprising that the depo-
sition of sediment by the Colorado should produce the results which have been effected, when we
consider the enormous amount of silt brought down by the Mississippi, the Nile, Ganges, and
other rivers, and the rapid increase of their deltas. According to the observations of W. K.
Loftus,? the head of the Persian Gulf, within a comparatively recent period, extended, certainly,
two hundred and fifty miles further to the northwest than the present mouth of the combined
stream of the Tigris and Euphrates, and one hundred and fifty miles beyond the junction of
these two great rivers at Korna. The alluvial deposit from these rivers is said to increase a
mile in thirty years ;® and Sir Charles Lyell gives a statement, made by Colonel Rawlinson,
that the delta of those rivers has advanced two miles in the last sixty years, and is supposed to
have encroached about forty miles upon the Gulf of Persia in the course of the last twenty-five
centuries, * Very great changes have also been produced at the mouths of the rivers which
enter the Adriatic Sea, It is stated by Lyell that “there is an uninterrupted series of recent
accessions of land more than one hundred miles in length, which, within the last two thousand
years, have increased from two to twenty miles in breadth." ° If these great accessions of land
had been confined to the mouth of one stream many miles below the head of a narrow gulf, a
lake would most certainly have resulted. If the Colorado had emptied into the head of the
Valley of the Gulf in the same manner as the Tigris and the Euphrates enter the Persian Gulf,

! Father Fernando Consag, in Venega's History of California, ii., p 144.
? Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society of London, xi., 43, p. 251.
3 Ainsworth and Rawlinson, Proceedings Geographical Society, 1850.

* Lyell's Principles of Geology, p. 285.
5 Principles, p. 256.

238 GEOLOGY.

۹
results similar to those at the mouths of those rivers would, undoubtedly, have been produced;
the sea would have been displaced, and a broad delta would have been formed, traversed by many
channels.

The explanation of the formation of the lake, and its disappearance, by evaporation, which
has been presented, agrees with the traditions of the Indians. Their statement, that the waters
retired little by little, is consistent with the gradual subsidence due to evaporation; and the
sudden floods, of which they speak, undoubtedly took place. It is probable that the lake was
long subject to great floods, produced either by overflows of the river at seasons of freshets, or
by a change in its channel, or by a great freshet, combined with a very high tide, so that the
river became, as it were, dammed up and raised to an unusual height. The present overflows,
though but very slight, are probably similar; and yet it is possible that the interior of the
Desert might be deluged at the present day, provided no elevation of the land has taken place,
and the river should remain at a great height for a long time—long enough to cause the exca-
vation of a deep channel for New River. .

Many more facts and observations are required before a full explanation can be given of the
progressive changes that have taken place during the formation of the delta and Ancient Lake.
We need to know the actual level of different parts of the surface of the Desert, and an explora-
tion of the terraces and channels between the Alamo and the head of the Gulf is desirable.

The foregoing observations on the origin or formation of the Ancient Lake have been made
without regard to the possibility of a change of level of the whole or a part of that region. It
is very possible, and even probable, that there have been such changes. A slight elevation of
the delta would have had the effect to deepen the channel of the river, and in this way would
have hastened the isolation of the lake. There certainly has not been an elevation of the
region sufficient to drain the lake, for the flow of New River shows us that the surface remains
lower than the Colorado. A slight elevation of the whole region would probably have merely
hastened the changes which have been described. If the precise elevation of the water-line,
which remains so beautifully distinct on the sides of the mountains, could be ascertained, it
would show at once whether there has been a change of level. The importance of determining
its altitude for this object led me to make the attempt by the barometer; but there not having
been simultaneous observations at the sea-level nearer than Benicia, over five hundred miles
distant, the result cannot be regarded as conclusive. The height of the mercury was found to
be 30.248 inches ; attached thermometer, 76° ; detached, 76°. The comparison of this obser-
vation with the stationary barometer at Benicia, gives, as the altitude of the station, forty-six
feet above mid-tide. The addition of one hundred feet, the estimated height of the water-line
above the barometer, gives us as its elevation one hundred and forty-six feet. The result shows
conclusively that the water-line is not far above the sea-level; but it is believed that the
possible errors consequent upon the distance, and diverse local influences of the two barometers,
may be greater than the altitude indicated. The water-line may, therefore, be at the sea-level ;
its exact altitude cannot be ascertained without simultaneous observations at the shore of the
Gulf, or by leveling. It is also very possible that the rough estimate of the elevation of the
water-line above the barometer station is as much as forty or forty-five feet too low or t00 high;
and this error, if too high, combined with one of one hundred feet in the barometrical indica-
tions, would place the line about at the sea-level. If, however, the line is elevated as much as
one hundred and fifty feet, there is still a wide area in the central part of the Desert which
must be below the sea. The probability of a slight elevation is rendered greater by the fact

PROBABLE CHANGES OF LEVEL—CALCAREOUS DEPOSITS—TRAVERTIN. 239

that the coast at San Pedro, and along the Santa Barbara channel, has undergone a compara-
tively recent elevation of about thirty feet, as shown by fossils in the banks. This elevation
may have been independent of the region at the head of the Gulf, but it is more probable that
it was not. A powerful cause for an elevation, sufficient to hasten the changes which have taken
place, is indicated to us by the earthquake disturbances which are so common in that region.
The earthquake of 1852 was sufficiently violent to break off a portion of Chimney Peak, and to
open fissures in the clay of the Desert. Such agitations can scarcely fail to affect the level of
parts of the delta or to modify the course of the river.

The water of the Ancient Lake was remarkable for the great amount of carbonate of lime
which it held in solution and deposited on its shores. The calcareous water does not, however,
appear to have been confined to the limits of the lake, for thick deposits of calcareous sinter or
travertin were found in the crevices in the granitic and metamorphie rocks of Pilot Knob, and
in the stratum of conglomerate forming the upper plain of the Desert. Near Pilot Knob, this
conglomerate was formed of pebbles imbedded in a calcareous paste, which filled all the inter-
stices, so that a mass of the rock looked like pebbles imbedded in mortar. The stones could be
detached, but left cavities or casts of their forms. The stones or boulders found on the slopes
of the Desert, below the water-line, were also invested with a calcareous crust. "These facts all
show the prevalence of calcareous water over that region in former times. The deposits of Pilot
Knob, and in the bank of conglomerate forming the broad upper plain, may at first be regarded
as an indication that the water of the Ancient Lake extended over them, or that it was not
confined to the long, narrow valley of the Gulf, but spread out over a broad surface along the
Colorado and Gila, far above their point of confluence. "Whether this was so, can only be
determined by measurements of the altitudes of the plain and water-line. The water, if thus
extended, could not, however, have been a lake, for there is no barrier between the upper plain
and the Gulf. It is probable, therefore, that the calcareous deposits of the Ancient Lake, and
those of Pilot Knob and the conglomerate, are entirely distinct and of different age.

There is much variation in the thickness of the travertin at different parts of the shore of the
lake. At the point where it was first observed, in the northern part of the Desert near Deep
Well, its thickness was not over four or five inches ; it was also less compact and hard than that
afterwards seen. At the next point where the elevation was taken, it was nearly two feet
thick, covering the rocks completely, so that all the edges and angles were rounded off. "This
deposit was extremely hard, and yet filled with long tubular cavities, opening upon the surface,
80 as to give it an appearance similar to a coarse coral. Small shells, of the same species as
those found in the clay, were enveloped in the mass of this crust at least six inches below its
surface ; they may occur at a greater depth but were not observed. The outer part of the
deposit, if not the whole, was thus formed by the lake while the water was fresh or only slightly
brackish.

This great quantity of carbonate of lime, once diffused in the water of the lake, was probably
supplied by springs, either at the bottom of the lake or near its borders. This is rendered more
than probable by the existence of a group of springs in the valley of the Desert, with the water
highly charged with carbonic acid, and surrounded by conical mounds which are probably
calcareous sinter. The quantity of water and carbonate of lime which they former ly delivered
may have been much greater than the present supply. The springs of San Felipe Creek may;
also, have furnished a great quantity of the calcareous water, for they are still depositing
travertin, and a thick layer is found on all the rocks of the ravine. Insome places the thickness

240 | GEOLOGY. ۰

is not less than three feet, and itis so abundant as to line the whole bed of the stream, hiding all
the rocks from view. Portions of the mass were traversed with long cylindrical tubes; they
being the casts of reeds and rushes similar to those now growing in the water. This stream
runs towards the valley of the Ancient Lake, and at certain seasons of the year may deliver a
large quantity of water. It serves as an indication of the source of the calcareous water of the
former lake, and there are doubtless many other streams of a similar character in that vicinity.

It is singular that the name of this valley is already associated with calcareous springs in
Europe. The springs and baths of San Fillipo, in Italy, are famous for the quantity of lime
contained in the waters and for the manufacture of medallions by its deposition. The water
which supplies the baths falls into a pond, where it has been known to deposit a solid mass thirty
feet thick in about twenty years." It is also stated that “a hard stratum of stone, about a foot
in thickness, is obtained from the waters of San Fillipo in four months ; and as the springs are
powerful, and almost uniform in the quantity given out, we are at no loss to comprehend the
magnitude of the mass which descends the hill, which is a mile and a quarter in length and the
third of a mile in breadth, in some places attaining a thickness of 250 feet at least.” “A large
proportion of the most splendid edifices of ancient and modern Rome are built of travertin,
derived from the quarries of Ponte Lucano, where there has evidently been a lake at a remote
period.””?

The calcareous deposits on the shores of the Ancient Lake are not crystalline or stalactitic,
nor do they exhibit distinct layers or successive coats, as is the case where the deposition
proceeds under full exposure to the air, and the water flows over the surface slowly, or in a thin
layer. On the contrary, the deposition appears to have been rapid, and below the surface of
quiet water.

The sinter of Pilot Knob is less compact than that marking the shore of the lake, and does
not appear on the surface of the rocks, being confined entirely to the clefts and crevices, as if it
had originated there instead of being deposited from without. This was very possibly the case.
The fissures may have given passage to the calcareous water from below. The specimen which
was collected has been analyzed for me by Dr. J. D. Easter with the following result:

Insoluble residue (silica) _ 8. 629
Carbonate of lime 85. 70
Sulphate of lime 0. 246
Carbonate of magnesia 0. 449
Peroxide of iron 1: 1
Alumina 2. 085
Silicate of soda 0.847
Chloride of sodium 0. 346
Phosphoric acid trace.
99.412

Further observations on it will be found in the Appendix, Article VII, Specimen 250.

THE SAND-HILLS.
The sand of the Colorado Desert forms, as has been shown, but a small part of its surface.
It is not found in a broad and thin layer, but is gathered together by the wind into heaps and
drifts, serving to break the monotony of the level plain. These hills are remarkable for the

1 Dr. Grosse on the Baths of San Fillipo. Ed. Phil. Journal, ii, p. 292.
? Sir Charles Lyell, Principles of Geology, p. 242-243.

FORMATION AND EXTENT OF THE SAND-HILLS OF THE DESERT. 241

beauty of their wave-like outlines and the purity of the sand. It is free from fine, earthy dust,
and being perfectly dry moves about before the wind like the dry sand that has been washed on
an ocean beach. The color varies somewhat at different localities, but is generally a light buff
or reddish yellow, similar to ordinary river sand. A large proportion of the grains are trans-
lucent, and some are transparent; many are dark-red and appear to be carnelian; others are
black, green, and brown. The clear grains are mostly silicious, and the others are probably
derived from the wearing of volcanic rocks. Small garnets are not uncommon, and in some
places considerable black iron-sand is found. When the sand is mixed with water, and treated
with hydrochloric acid, a brisk effervescence ensues, indicating the presence of a notable quantity
of carbonate of lime.

The grains present an interesting appearance when viewed with a microscope. All the little
asperities and sharp edges are seen to be worn away, and their surfaces are rounded by attrition,
so that many of the grains are perfect spheres. It is not difficult to find quantities of the
spherical grains by bringing the eye closely to the surface of the ground, especially where gravel
is abundant, as in such places the grains are much larger than on the sand-hills. I thus
obtained a great variety of little polished spheres of quartz, agate, garnet, and a transparent
green mineral, probably chrysolite. "The color of the sand at Deep Well is a little darker than
that between Carrizo Creek and the Colorado, and is not quite so fine.

The principal accumulations of the sand are at the following localities: Between Pilot Knob
and Alamo Mocho ; between Carrizo Creek and Salt Creek ; at Deep Well; in the Bernardino
Pass ; and on the north side of the Desert, opposite Deep Well.

The position of the principal of these accumulations will be found upon the geological map of
the Desert, where they are indicated by the finely dotted spaces.

The most formidable and extensive accumulation is that between Pilot Knob and the Alamo.
This constitutes what has been known as the “ Sand-hills of the Desert ;’’ the other localities
being either insignificant, or being in unexplored places. This accumulation of sand-hills
borders the emigrant road on the north side for several miles; it is a part of a long crescent-
shaped belt of sand, that extends from Pilot Knob to the vicinity of the Alamo.

In passing from the Colorado towards the Pacific, the first sand-hills of this belt are seen at
the Indian village, overlying the upper terrace. Nearer Cooke's Well the sand has poured
over the bank, as shown in the figure, so that it encroaches upon the road, and partially buries

SECTION OF SAND-HILLS COVERING THE BANK.

DEPT uL

Tim "lo:
دبا‎ Me
p ag

一 二 ine TA o aie i z

S, Sand, drifting from the north ; C, Clay and sand of the bank or terrace.
some of the mezquite bushes. Beyond Cooke's Well the sand falls over the terrace in a similar
manner. In fact, the southern extent and range of the sand-hills of this belt is determined by,
and coincides with, the bank or terrace constituting the margin of the upper or higher plain of

31 ۳

212 GEOLOGY.

It is from the surface of this gravelly plain that the sand is derived ; it is swept from it by
the strong winds, and travels along until the force of the wind is broken or changed by some
natural obstacle. At such places the sand is dropped, and soon becomes heaped up into undu-
lating ridges, which simulate the billows of the ocean by their wave-like contour. All the
principal sand-hills appear to have accumulated upon the edge of this terrace ; and they do not
extend beyond it. "Those near the road, between Cooke's Well and the Alamo, do not exceed
sixty feet in height, and this is much greater than the average elevation. From the tops of
these there are, however, other hills visible, two or three miles eastward, which appear much
higher, and may be over one hundred feet high.

I ascended the hills at a point a short distance from the Mezquite Well, and crossed over
among them to their northern limits. At that place the width of the belt was less than half a
mile. It is, however, wider further to the east, but probably does not exceed one mile at the
widest part. "The hills are highest near the bank, and gradually thin down into a gentle slope
towards the north. "The outline of a section of the belt, from north to south, may be illustrated
by the figure; the direction of the wind and the progress of the sand being shown by the arrow.

SECTION OF THE SAND-HILLS.

The wave-like outline of the hills is apparent, and it will also be noticed that the windward
slopes are long and gentle, compared with those turned from the wind. The latter are abrupt,
and are generally inclined at an angle of thirty degrees, being ‘as steep as dry sand will lie.
The relation of the sand-hills to the terraces is illustrated by a short section. P (See Sheet VIII.)

When one penetrates among these round sand-hills, so that every other object is shut out from
view, they seem like gigantic snow-drifts ; and the low, rustling sound, produced by the moving
sand-grains, is very similar to that made by hard, dry snow, when driven before a high wind.
The sand does not rise high in the air, but bounds along on the surface, or only a few inches
above it, so that the drift is enveloped in a sheet or atmosphere of moving grains. They
gradually rise the slope, and when they reach the highest point, they fall down the steep bank
to the leeward.

All these drifts and hills are covered with the most perfectly formed little waves and furrows,
corresponding with the ripple-marks produced by water. These air ripple-marks are, however,
more perfect and regular than those made by water, and they extend over large surfaces. l

The sand that has driven over the bank, along the road, has so covered the terrace from view,
that it is generally supposed that the hills are formed entirely of sand ; the fact that the sand is
merely a coating or covering to the terrace has not been recognized. It is, however, clearly
the case, for at many places the larrea is seen growing up through the sand, twenty feet
above the road. This could not be without a foundation for the roots more firm than is furnished
by the bare sand.

There are but one or two points, in the whole distance between the Colorado and the Alamo
Well, where the sand-hills present a formidable appearance ; or it seems possible that they can
encroach on the road so as to render it impassable. The progress of the sand appears to be
stopped by the vegetation, (Larrea Mexicana and mezquite,) and by the natural receptacle formed
by the steep bank over which it falls. This bank acts as à complete bar to the further progress
ofthe sand. It is more perfect in this respect than a wall-like barrier could be, for all the -

w

Re OR Pe da u MT ET T مت‎ rA

SAND-HILLS IN THEIR RELATION TO A RAILROAD. 243

that pours over its edge is protected from the further action of the wind, which is allowed to
preserve its general direction, and passes on without being thrown into violent eddies, as would
be the case if its progress was impeded by a wall, or any prominent object.

The movements of the sand in the air are precisely similar to those that take place when it is
immersed in the more dense fluid, water. The progress of the grains along the surface of the
plain, and their final rest at the edge of the bank, is precisely similar to the transportation of
sand by a stream, and its deposition, in the form of a bank, whenever the current enters deep
water. In water, little eddies and back currents are produced by a projecting rock, or root,
acting as a barrier to the current, and drift-sand accumulates on the lower side of such obstacles.
So, in air, wherever a slight obstacle, such as a bush, or boulder, stands on the plain, exposed
to the wind, the driving-sand accumulates on the lee side, as in the figure.

مد بر

` We have thus considered the phenomena, and the mode of progress of the principal sand-hills
of the Desert, and the conclusions to which we may arrive may be stated as follows:
1. The sand is derived from the surface of the upper gravelly plain of the Desert by the

, continued action of the northerly winds. E

2. These sands have accumulated along the margin of this plain, and form a belt less than a

, mile in width, and about twenty miles in length.

3. The hills seldom reach a height of sixty feet; and most of the high hills, heretofore
supposed to be composed entirely of sand, are underlaid by a high bank of clay and gravel, and
the sand is a mere covering. :

4. That the terrace, forming the margin of the plain on which the.sand rests, acts as an
effectual bar to its further progress. i

In view of these- faets, I see no reason to regard the Sand-Hills as a serious obstacle to the
construction of a railroad. They occupy so small a part of the wide area of the Desert, that, if
necessary, they can be avoided. The road could be safely built on the hard clay surface of the
first or second terrace, carrying it several miles south of the sand ; or, if it is desirable to run in
à more direct line, from the Gila to the Pass of San Bernardino, the road can be made on the
Upper plain, far in the rear of the sand, and on its windward side. It is not necessary to carry
the road across the Sand-Hill range. The hills have a direction that would be nearly parallel to
the course of a road.

There is a thin layer of sand on the bank above the Alamo Well, but it does not form a drift
or hill of such a magnitude as to render it worthy.of particular notice, Sand is again met in
similar thin Sheets, varying from three inches to a foot in depth, in the vicinity of the Lagoon.
It fills up the little crevices and little irregularities in the surface of the clay, and is readily
shifted about by the winds. Several drifts were also passed between the emigrant trail and the
Salt Creek. They are long and narrow, and do not present any formidable appearance ; they
are not deep ; and the wagons of the train crossed them without much difficulty. They form
long and narrow strips or belts of sand, which are only a few inches deep for the greater part of
their extent; but in one or two of the highest points, their depth may be ten feet. At Deep
Well the sand is piled up into a range of low hills, not over twenty-five feet in height. They

244 GEOLOGY.

are on the north side of the well, and several hundred yards north of the rocks forming the base
of San Grorgoño Mountain, so that a smooth and unobstructed passage-way is left between them
and the rocks. This accumulation has a length of three or four miles, and extends in a nearly
northwest and southeast direction. The range has a width of at least one quarter ofa mile, ^
near the Deep Well; but its northern margin was not seen. This sand is not so fine as that
between the Alamo and the Colorado; it, however, appears to have a similar chemical con-
stitution.

The observations already made on the contour and the movements of the sand-hills east of
Alamo Well will apply to these drifts also ; but the cireumstances under which they exist are
quite different, in consequence of the absence of the terrace. The proximity of the bordering
range of granite seems to exert an influence on the distribution of the sand at the well. It is
probable that the violent lateral eddies, that are produced where the wind impinges upon the
rocks, are sufficient to prevent the accumulation of the grains at the immediate base of the
mountain. Appearances led me to conclude that an effect of this kind was produced ; the fact
that the sand is always thrown to the lee side of an obstacle lends additional support to the

conclusion.
` An immense body of sand has accumulated at the base of the mountains, on the north side of
the Desert, nearly opposite Deep Well. It forms smooth, rounded hills, with wave-like surfaces.
This accumulation is nearly opposite the slope of the Bernardino Pass, and is in the range of
the strong, prevailing wind, which appears to be deflected back into the valley when it strikes
the opposite mountains.

This body of sand is many miles north of the direct line between the Pass and the Gila, and
cannot interfere with a railroad. Sand has accumulated at several points between the base and the
summit of the Bernardino Pass. It, however, does not remain in the open spaces, but is confined
to the projecting spurs of the granite of San Gorgoño. In these places it is always thrown to
their leeward sides ; and scarcely any is to be found on the side where the wind acts with its full
force. ۱

All the principal accumulations of sand on the desert, that are in the vicinity of the travelled
route, have thus been considered in succession. It is evident that the sand forms but a small
part of the surface of the Desert, and that it does not form a deep, wide-spread, and continuous
layer; but that it exists in isolated patches and drifts, bearing but a small ratio in their surface
to the areas from which they have been swept. The sand-drifts are so limited in their area,
and are separated by such wide intervals, that the transit from the Colorado to San Bernardino
may be made without crossing one of them. A railroad track can also be laid down between.
these two places without coming in contact with a single sand-hill.

SPRINGS, WELLS AND STREAMS OF THE DESERT.—ARTESIAN WELLS.

On that portion of the Desert which is usually traversed by travellers and the emigrants to
California, by the way of the valley of the Gila, and from Sonora, the main dependence for water
is upon New River and its sloughs, and thetwo ponds—the Big and Little lagoons—which "-—
in fact, but portions of New River at times of high water. The wells of the Desert are on ۵ side
road to the northward of New River, and are not relied on by emigrants and travellers accom-
panied by many animals, or by droves of cattle. New River and its lagoons cannot be reli
upon as an unfailing source of water; it depends upon the Colorado being filled during the

ge Alias heg hak
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SOURCES OF WATER ON THE DESERT—WELLS. 245

season of floods only, and not then unless the river attains an unusual height. It is frequently,
and perhaps generally, the case that the annual freshet subsides without filling the channel.

The wells, if such they may be called, along the trail from the Colorado to Carrizo Creek,
have already been described in the Itinerary. They exist chiefly in name, and require little
description ; their condition at the time of my observations was abominable. Cooke’s Well was
a muddy hole in the clay, to which the mules and animals of travellers had free access, and it
was prevented from becoming a mere mud-puddle only by a few short boards surrounding the
water. The water, consequently, was always muddy, and there was but a small supply in the
pool. The Mezquite Well was in a similar condition, but could be considered as in better order,
a barrel having been placed in it. The Alamo Well is about eighteen feet deep, and is planked
and curbed. The pressure of the moist clay at the sides had, however, pressed the planks
inwards, so that they were in danger of giving way, and permitting the well to become closed.
The lining of the well was secured by cross strips of plank, which were insufficient, and should -
be replaced by strong timbers, arranged as in the shaft of a mine.

Several other wells or holes in the clay have been excavated along the road, but at the time
we passed they were filled up by the caving in of the banks, or by sand, so that they were use-
less, "There is, however, a well between the Big Lagoon and Carrizo Creek which was not
visited by the Expedition, but is said to contain water. It is known as ““Sackett's Well," and
its position is indicated on the map. The operations of the United States Land Survey have
brought to light two new localities of water in the central part of the Desert. Oneisan Indian
well, dug in an arroyo, of New River, probably, about eight miles north of Big Lagoon. The
second is a group of springs, of highly carbonated water, directly west of Salt Creek. According
to Mr. Charles H. Poole, who discovered them, they furnish a large supply of water of a
very agreeable taste. The water boils up in several places, and has formed conical hillocks of
earth about the openings, as shown in the sketch by Mr. Poole.

SODA SPRINGS, COLORADO DESERT.

The little hillocks vary from three or four to six and eight feet in height, and their sides are
Covered with grass. The water is found in the centre of these mounds ; and it is kept in con-
stant motion by the escape of large quantities of gas, with which it is so highly charged that
It was difficult to keep the corks in bottles that were filled with it. This gas was, without
doubt, carbonic acid. The water, in its taste and effervescence, resembles soda water so closely
that Mr. Poole gave the appropriate name of Soda Springs to the locality. They are about
sixty miles distant, from the Colorado River, in a direct line, from the mouth of the Gila.

The existence of an extensive lagoon , or dry lake-bed, covered with salt, in the northern and

` lowest part of the Desert, is reported, but its precise locality is not known. The Indians are

accustomed to resort to it for salt, which they say is found there in large quantities. It is said
that this lake is sometimes flooded with water; and it is possible that it is supplied by New

246 GEOLOGY.

River, after the stream leaves Big Lagoon. Its position is indicated on the map as nearly as
possible.

The northwestern side of the Desert, north. of Carrizo Creek, has several springs at wide
intervals, already described in detail in the Itinerary. The most interesting localities are the
Hot Spring and Deep Well. Deep Well is interesting as the first locality of water on the
Desert south of the San Bernardino Pass, and for its peculiar construction by the Indians. The
water is approached by steps as in the East.

The following table includes all the known localities of water, with the exception of New
River, on the line of the trail between the Colorado, at the mouth of the Gila, and the Pass of
San Bernardino. The distances from the Colorado are given in the first column, and the inter-
mediate distances in the second : à

Distance from | Intermediate
the Colorado. distance.
Cooke’s Well 14. 90 14. 90
Mezquite Well 18. 90 4. 00
Alamo Well 36.20 17. 30
Little Lagoon 51.95 15.75
Big Lagoon 62. 24 10. 29
Sackett’s Well 13. 24 11.00
Salt Creek 93. 24 20.00
چه‎ 8 Water at Point of Rocks 118. 24 25.00
Cohuilla Springs 130. 80 12. 60
Deep Well 146. 62 15. 82
Hot Spring 157. 24 10. 62
River in the Pass . 164.50 7.36

The following localities are not on the line of the trail :

Distance from |Intermediate
istance.

the Colorado.
Indian Well ۱ Ree Vass Ce
“Soda Springs”? ۱ 87.24 17.00
Salt Pond : 99. 24 12. 00

‚It will thus be seen that there is no interval of over twenty-five miles without water on the
travelled trail across the Desert. The whole distance from the Colorado to the foot of pn
Bernardino Pass is not over 170 miles; consequently, not more than three watering stations
will be required on the Desert for railroad purposes. The distance from the mouth of the Gila,
in a direct line, to the water in the Pass, measured without regard to the localities of ode Hl
the Desert, is about one hundred and thirty miles. There are doubtless many other localities
of water that have not yet been discovered. It is, however, my opinion that water can be
obtained at almost any desired point by digging or boring.

It is very important that the wells should be improved, or, rather, that others should be dug
at convenient distances along the route usually travelled from the Colorado to Carrizo Creek.

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WELLS AND SPRINGS—ARTESIAN WELLS. 247

The lives and property of emigrants and travellers require that they should be dug ; and they are
necessary to the safety and comfort of the wagon trains carrying supplies to Fort Yuma from the
coast. The travel between the Gila and California is constantly increasing, and large droves of
cattle and sheep from New Mexico are driven over the Desert. The present mud-holes should
be at once replaced by carefully constructed wells, capable of holding water enough for a large
number of men and the animals of a train, The wells should be carried to a considerable depth,
and thoroughly and securely timbered and planked throughout. Iron troughs! and buckets
should be furnished, and a narrow iron curb, securely bolted down, would be better than one of
wood. ‘‘ Deep Well," at the base of San Gorgoño Mountain, should be carried to a greater
depth, and be much enlarged. It should be lined with stout plank, and timbered in the manner
before suggested. A well is very much needed near or at the Big Lagoon. It can be easily
dug in the clay, and a good supply of water would probably be obtained. Wells ought also
to be dug at several points intermediate between the Lagoon or Sackett’s Well and the Salt
Creek, and likewise between Salt Creek and the Cohuilla Springs. A few thousand “dollars
judiciously expended would secure an abundance of water in wells along the whole line.

As there has not been an opportunity to give the waters from the Desert a chemical examina-
tion, it is impossible to present a full and definite statement of their quality and mineral ingre-
dients. The water that is obtained from New River and its lagoons appears to be tolerably free
from soluble salts. It is only when the water in the lagoons is-very much concentrated by `
evaporation that it becomes brackish, and shows the presence of salt by a slight incrustation on
the shores, A very considerable quantity of fine clay is, however, held in suspension by the
water, and when it has been long standing in the sun it becomes more or less charged with
organic impurities. The water from the different wells appears to be nearly alike; it is slightly
brackish in all of them. The water also holds a portion of clay in suspension, sufficient to
impart an earthy, disagreeable taste. The quantity of salt present in the water is not enough
to injure it for culinary purposes, and it is hardly perceptible to the taste. The peculiarity of
the water of the Soda Springs has been described. From the statement of Mr. Poole, I am led
to believe that the water is remarkably pure. Its chief mineral ingredient will probably be
found to be carbonate of lime. The hillocks surrounding the springs probably are not wholly |
composed of a deposit from the water. In that region, and in the Great Basin, the springs are
commonly surrounded by a mound or elevated border, formed from the accumulation of sand
and dust upon the moist earth, and among the roots of the grass and other vegetation.

The springs at the Cohuilla villages contain soluble salts in small quantities. Some of the
salts showed their presence by a white border on the edge of the water, and by the growth of

. the peculiar “salt grass," common on the borders of salt lakes. The water of Hot Spring ap-

pears to be very pure, and free from any solid impurities. The unpleasant odor of sulphuretted
hydrogen is removed when the water is boiled.

The principal facts leading to the conclusion that a persistent supply of water may be obtained
by wells may be recapitulated as follows: :

l. The surface of the deep clay, which has already been described as having been deposited
by a former lake or bay, and which now constitutes the greater part of the Desert, is not, at any
point, many feet above the Colorado, and is, in great part, below it.

2. It is at times irrigated by the overflows of the Colorado, through New River.

* It has been found almost impossible to keep wooden buckets and troughs at Alamo Well. The buckets are stolen by
travellers, and the troughs are used for fire-wood,

>

248 | GEOLOGY.

3. The lower level, or terrace, bordering the Colorado, and extending far inland, is thickly
wooded near the Mezquite Well with mezquite, and near the Colorado with willows and cotton.
woods. These plants show the presence of water at no great depth below the surface.

4. The deep clay is very retentive of moisture, and evaporation from its surface is slow.

5. Water being found in several distant places, at apparently the same level, and below the
level of the Colorado, indicates that the supply is derived, partly at least, from that stream, by
infiltration.

In view of these facts, and the experience of travellers, in relation to the wells, I do not
hesitate to assert that, when judiciously constructed, ordinary wells can be relied upon for a
constant and abundant supply of water.

There are many other points, intermediate to the wells, where water can be obtained by dig-
ging. Indeed, it will probably be found at almost any part of the lower terrace upon which
the mezquite grows so abundantly. The natural springs of the northern part of the Desert may
be regarded as unfailing, and they can be made to furnish a supply of water sufficient for all
railroad purposes. ,

Artesian wells.—In addition to the water that can be obtained from common wells in the clay,
there is every reason to believe that deep Artesian borings would be entirely successful. The

clay formation rests upon stratified Tertiary sandstones and shales which are more or less tilted
and disturbed by intrusive rocks. The edges of these strata appear at the surface at Carrizo
Creek and along the base of the Peninsula Sierra. Although there is comparatively very little
water supplied from the inland slope of these mountains, yet, in the aggregate amount, it is
probably sufficient to keep the strata under.the clay charged with water. The strata may also
receive a supply from the Colorado. The clay formation acts as a retentive superstratum ; by
perforating it, and reaching the underlying strata, it is probable that a copious supply of
water would be obtained; in some parts of the Desert, it would overflow the surface. Such
wells would be of great value in that region for irrigation.

In the event of the location of the railroad upon the upper terrace, or gravelly plateau to the
north of the Sand-Hills, it may be desirableto obtain water there. It can be most conveniently
done by boring ; .and the depth to which the perforation must extend will necessarily be much
greater than if commenced on the lower plain or first terrace. The probabilities are that water
would be found ; but, in that vicinity, it cannot be expected to rise to the surface.

If the railroad is constructed on this upper plain, it will be north of the boundary line, and
avoid the long detour to the southward along the trail, which is in Mexican territory. A
straight line from the Gila to the Bernardino Pass crosses this upper plain, and nearly intersects
the Soda Springs and the Salt Pond. The fact that water rises in springs in the lower and
central parts of the Desert is important, and gives additional reason to believe that Artesian
borings would be attended with perfect success. :

AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.—CLIMATE.

The upper or gravelly plains of the Desert, especially those in the vicinity of the mouth of
the Gila, are too arid and wanting in soil to be ever used for agrieulture. But this is not the
case with a large part of the Desert—that part tormed of the alluvial and lacustrine clay. ۳
whole of this clay surface may be considered as capable of supporting a luxuriant growth of

vegetation, provided it is supplied with water by irrigation. It is undoubtedly of nearly the

SOIL OF THE DESERT—AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES—IRRIGATION. 249

same composition as the alluvial bottom-land of the Colorado, which is covered with a growth
of mezquite, cotton-wood, willows, and grass. Goodcrops of corn, beans, and melons are also
raised by the Yuma and Cocopas Indians. The river-bottom of the Gila is said to be adapted
to the growth of cotton—it being cultivated by the Pimo Indians, who have long been known
to manufacture cotton blankets. Other evidences of the fertility of the clay, when moistened,
are presented by the vegetation on the borders of the lagoons, and on the banks of New River,
which are said to be covered with a dense growth of grass. It is, in part, for the use of this
grass that the emigrants prefer the trail along the stream to the shorter one, under the sand-
hills, by Cooke's Well and Alamo Mocho.

The Cohuilla Indians, in the northwestern part of the Desert, raise abundant crops of corn,
barley, and vegetables in the vicinity of the springs at their villages. We also observed a
dense growth of weeds over a wide area near the mountains, but not far from the cultivated
fields. The ground upon which they grew was moist and miry, being supplied with
water by numerous springs. The barley-field found near the sand-hills, at the base of the
Bernardino Pass, was upon the clay of the Desert; the thickness and size of the stubble was
such as to indicate a large yield.

The specimens of the soil near the Cohuilla villages, which were procured for analysis, are
rich in all the mineral ingredients necessary to fertility. Theexamination of the sample showed
the presence of the following substances :

Soluble in water. Soluble in acid.
Alumina and oxide of iron. ilica.
Lime. Clay and oxide of iron and manganese.
Magnesia. Carbonate of lime.
Soda, (abundant.) : Magnesia, (unusually large.)
Potash, (abundant ) Phosphoric acid.
Phosphoric acid. Sulphuric acid.
Sulphuric acid. Soda.
Chlorine. Potash.
Organic matter.

The per-centage of the sand, organic matter, carbonate of lime, and the soluble salts was
determined by weight with the following result :1

Sand 60. 00 per cent.
Carbonate of lime i 16.59 per cent.
Organic matter ..- 1. 30 per cent.
Soluble in water..... 1. 58 per cent.

This may be called an exceedingly rich soil, and is adapted to various crops. The large
amount of carbonate of lime is due, in part, to the presence of the small shells distributed
through the soil. "The amount of organic matter, though not by any means very small, would
be rapidly increased by cultivation.

From the preceding facts it becomes evident that the alluvial soil of the Desert is capable of
sustaining a vigorous vegetation. The only apparent reason for its sterility is the absence of
water, for wherever it is kept moist vegetation springs up. If a supply of water could be
obtained for irrigation, it is probable that the greater part of the Desert could be made to yield
crops of almost any kind. During the seasons of high water, or the overflows of the Colorado,
there would be little difficulty in irrigating large areas in the vicinity of New River and the
lagoons. By deepening the channel of New River, or cutting a canal so low that the water of
the Colorado would enter at all seasons of the year, a constant supply could be furnished to the

1 See Appendix, Article VII, Chemical Examinations.
32 F

250. | GEOLOGY.

interior portions of the Desert. It is, indeed, a serious question whether a canal would not
cause the overflow of a vast surface, and refill, to a certain extent, the dry valley of the Ancient
Lake. This is possible, and would result, provided no change of level has taken place since the
waters dried up. An overflow and submergence of the valley would produce great changes in
the climate of that region, and permit navigation by small vessels from the Colorado to the
base of the Bernardino Pass. .

In considering the adaptation of the surface of the Desert to agriculture, the peculiarities of
the climate should be remembered. It is possible that they are such as to prevent the successful
cultivation of crops, however rich and favorable the soil may be. The air is peculiarly hot and
dry, and would have a burning and parching effect on vegetation. At certain seasons, an’ on
parts of the Desert, the violence of the wind would greatly interfere with the growth of plants.

The prevailing winds at Fort Yuma are from the north and northwest, but southerly winds
blow from June to October. The winds from the north are very dry and violent. They sweep
down from the desert valleys and barren mountains, along the Colorado and the eastern side of
the Great Basin, and before reaching Fort Yuma are deprived of what little moisture they may
have contained. They keep the air filled with clouds of dust, and heap up the sand-hills along
theterrace. The violence of these winds is, however, not so greatin the valley of the Desert, it
being partially protected by the ranges on the northeast side; while at Fort Yuma the full force
of the current down the valley of the river is experienced. The direction of the winds, and the
temperatures for the different months of the year will be found in the following table, extracted
Írom the meteorological register kept at Fort Yuma.!

| Thermometer.
Months. Winds. Rain.
Monthly |Highest. | Lowest.
mean. 3

1852. e bi ó Inches.

May 81. 85 108 ED WS Sy. LLL...
June - 91. 66 106 68 | SW. &W. ..|--.--.
July 93. 54 108 70. | S. &SW...- 28
ROE I ES 92. 74 108 ru. 33
Bepteinber..-- 5. 84. 56 106 60 | S. & SE..... 1. 45
OO 73. 09 98 50 | N. &NE "
November 61. 83 90 328. N ENW 35
DESDE aa 56.51 75 32 | N.£ NW... 04

1853. .

JABUNFY oer nr anes 60. 32 80 57 |N:&NW...]....--
February 58. 71 78 36. de N Wei an AS
March 67. 56 92 400: WWW... 10
April 74. 90 98 52, | NW. SW... isn
May 77 12 99 52 | NW. & W...|------
June - 89. 04 116 61 | NW. & W...|------
July 94. 93 111 76 | S. &SE...-. 25
dKuguit LU Ala. 92. 11 110 76: | 8. & BW....|--.---
September...........| 89. 08 110 69 | N.& NE..-- 04
A ud oo nn nnd 79.30 100 50 | N. &NW...|------
November...... —— | 65. 89 86 45 | NE. & NW..| .18

1 This register has been carefully kept by Dr. Milhau, U.S. A., who kindly furnished me with the above abstract.

y A

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p

CLIMATE—-PURITY OF THE AIR—MIRAGE. 251

The remarkably high range of the thermometer, exhibited by this table, cannot fail to be
noticed. It is very common to find it standing at 110? during the day, but after the sun
descends the temperature rapidly decreases, and the nights are refreshingly cool. "The mean
temperatures of the seasons, deduced from the observations of the last five years, are as
follows: Spring, 72.10; Summer, 89.95 ; Autumn, 75.69; Winter, 56.80. The mean annual
temperature being 73.62.' The sudden diminution of temperature at night is facilitated by
the absence of clouds, or watery vapors, in the air, which allows free and rapid radiation of
heat from the surface, and permits the sun's rays to penetrate with remarkable heating power
and chemical effect during the day. The nights and mornings, during our stay upon the Desert,
and at Camp Yuma, were always cool and comfortable, and sometimes cold, but with the rising
sun the heat returned, lasting, without intermission, until the unclouded sun was hid behind
the western mountains. Similar conditions were observed by Bayard Taylor in the Nubian
Desert. The temperature varied from 509—559 at 6 a. m. to 809—859? at 2 p. m. The
extremes being 47? and 1009.? The heat, therefore, is not as great as on the Colorado Desert.

The remarkable purity of the air of the Desert has been noticed in the Itinerary. It is so clear
that it permits small objects to be distinctly seen at great distances; and the mountain ridges,
when ten or twelve miles distant, appear close at hand. Small objects on the broad plain are
often imagined to be of immense size, and at a great distance, there being nothing with which
to compare their magnitude. "The air also appears to produce a wonderful effect in coloring the
ranges of distant mountains. The tints which they assume are beautifully clear and uniform,
but vary with the distance. A deep, beautiful blue is most common, but all shades of brown,
purple, violet, and even rose, are seen. The transparency of the air becomes very evident at
night, when the stars shine out with all the splendor which they have in the clear nights of
mid-winter in New England. |

All the phenomena of mirage, as described by travellers of the Desert regions of Africa and
Asia, are exhibited on a grand scale upon the Colorado Desert. Mountain ranges, so far distant
as to be below the horizon, are made to rise into view in distorted and changing outlines.
Inverted images of smaller objects, and apparent lakes of clear water, are often seen, and invite
the traveller to turn aside for refreshment. The first exhibition of mirage that was seen was
from the margin of the plain at Carrizo Creek, looking towards the Gila, about ninety miles
distant, It was early in the morning, aud the eastern sky had that golden hue which precedes
the rising sun. Tall, blue columns, towers, and the spires of churches, and overhanging preci-
pices seemed to stand upon the verge of the plain. Their outlines were changing gradually,
and as the sun rose higher they were entirely dissipated. Figures of these outlines are given
in the Itinerary.—(See also View XIL) After reaching Fort Yuma, and witnessing the strangely
precipitous and pinnacled outline of the mountains beyond, it was at once apparent that the
mirage consisted of their distorted images. When we were upon the northern part of the
Desert, the peak of Signal Mountain was often distorted and raised above the horizon. The
points of distant ranges also seemed, at times, to be elevated above the surface, precisely as
headlands of a coast sometimes appear to rise above the water at sea. Many of the phenomena
called mirage are not due to refraction, but are believed to be the result of reflection from the sand
or smooth surface of clay, or the polished pebbles. Thesmooth clay forms an excellent reflector
for all the rays which are incident at a slight angle, and is most frequently the cause of the

! Army Meteorological Register, from 1843-1854, p. 641.
? Journey to Central Africa, p.

252 GEOLOGY.

appearance of water. The beautiful surface of the pebbly plain may be regarded as a combina-
tion of myriads of reflectors ; for each pebble is so highly polished that it reflects light almost
like a mirror. The reflection from such a brilliant surface, when seen at a favorable angle,
looks like a sheet of water; the similarity being heightened by the motion of the stratum of
heated air in contact with the surface.

It is probable that the sand also acts as a reflecting surface, in consequence ef the rounded
form of the grains ; a portion of the incident rays being similarly reflected from every grain,
and not wholly dispersed in various directions, as they would be if the grains were angular, or
had flat surfaces. ;

The influence which is exerted by elimate upon the vegetation of a region cannot be more
strikingly shown than by a comparison of the deltas, or alluvial lands, of the Mississippi and
the Colorado. The alluvium of the Mississippi is noted for its fertility and the luxuriance of its
vegetation. "The produce of its plantations enriches States and affects the commerce of the
world. On the Colorado, a short distance back from the immediate borders of the river, we find
a broad alluvial plain, with a gray, ashy surface, parched and sun-baked, so that it may be
quarried in blocks like stone. Scarcely a spire of grass rises above its surface, and there is no
shade from the burning sun. The air, heated by radiation and direct contact with the clay, and
unresisted by vegetation, is thrown into violent currents, and sweeps over the plain, bearing
clouds of dust and sheets of sand with such power and persistence as to abrade and polish every
obstacle. ; |

CHAPTER XVIII.
NOTES IN THE GOLD REGION.

SAN FRANCISCO TO STOCKTON —GREAT INLAND CURRENT OF AIR THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE.—ALLUVIAL FORMATION AT STOCKTON.—SLOPE
AND HORIZONTAL STRATA —KNIGHT'S FERRY.—BASALT.—MICA AND He M; NM VR SLATE.'—PLATEAUX OF BASALT.—
SONORA. GoLp.—IRREGULAR IMESTONE. FE Cave.—Murpay’s.-T.
MASTODON.—MAMMOTH TREES.—SEQUOIA GIGANTEA.—CAVE CITY. e ی‎ AND CAVE.—TALCOSE SLATES AND GOLD.—MOKELUMNE
HILL.—COSUMNES RIVER —SACRAMENTO.—ALLUVIUM.—GRANITE.—CLAY SLATE.—BASAUT.— AUBURN.—Y ANKEE JIM’s.—AURIFE
ALLUVIA —FOREST HILL.—PLACER MINE.—CRYSTALLINE GOLD.—DRIFT AT SARAHYILLE.—F OSSIL W00D.—MICHIGAN CITY.— A 8

CASON OF THE NORTH FORK.—NEVADA AND GRASS VALLEY.—QUARTZ VEINS AND MINES,—GRASS VALLEY TO COLOMA.—GRANITE AND
SLATES.—SUTTER'S MILL.—SLATES AND TRAP DIKES AT IRISH CREEK.— CRYSTALS OF GOLD. — GEORGETOWN. —MAMALUKE HILL.—SLATES
AND AURIFEROUS DRIFT.—METHOD OF MINING.—W ASHINGTON TUNNEL COMPANY.—RICH VEIN OF AURIFEROUS QUARTZ.— ITS AT
CEMENT HILL.—BED OF AN ANCIENT ee THE GOLD — A SLUICE.—MINERALS.—T ELLURET OF SILVER, —SERPENTI

VorcANoviLLE —R GRANITE.— CONCLUDING THE GEOLOGY OF THE GOLD REGION. —

TALCOSE AND CLAY SLATES. RC vafis, ROCKS.—BELT OF GRANITE. Bar OF METAMORPHOSED LIMESTONE, POSSIBLY CARBONIFEROUS.—
HORIZONTAL STRATA, TERTIARY.—OVERFLOWS OF BASALTIC LAYA.— TABLE MOUNTAINS.—AURIFEROUS DRIFT.—COARSE DRIFT.—RIVER
DRIFT.—-ALLUVIAL DEPOSITS.— LACUSTRINE DEPOSITS.

SAN FRANCISCO TO SONORA.!

August 4, 1854.— Left San Francisco in the high pressure steamboat ** American Eagle" for
Stockton at 4 o’clock in the afternoon. In passing up the bay we experienced the full force of
the great air-current that sweeps in from the ocean to the interior. The Golden Gate is like a
great draught-channel through which the cold winds reach the heated plains on the other side
of the Coast Mountains. The wind pours in with such violence that a heavy swell is constantly
rolling in the channel, and small steamers roll and pitch as if there was a severe storm. The
wind prevails from April to November.

The small island beyond Angel Island, rising like a pinnacle in the bay, is formed of red rock
similar to that of Lime Point, and it is probably the same metamorphosed formation. The wild-
oat covers the hills so thickly that they seem like vast, unreaped fields of grain. The fires have
not traversed as much of the surface as last year, when nearly all the hills in the vicinity of
Benicia were burned off, leaving only a blackened surface, and the bare and sun-baked soil.

A very perceptible change in the climate is felt soon after leaving San Francisco. The high
ranges between the bay of San Pablo and the Pacific prevent the rush of air which passes so
freely in at the Golden Gate, and appear to act the part of barriers, or a wall, to break the
force of the wind. There i is, apparently, less moisture in the air, and its temperature is higher,

August 5.—Arrived at Stockton early in the morning, and soon left by stage for Sonora.
Stockton is built on the margin of a slough of the river, and is upon the alluvial clay of the
delta. We soon pass from this clay to the firmer and more gravelly materials of the long slope
of the valley, which reaches up to the foot-hills of the mountains, precisely as we find it further
south PE the Tuslgmne or other streams. This Bars has a very gentle are inclination

and sections = the drift deposits, was stolen, with other articles, on the Isthm
BER to present all the observations which were made, or to er pori a map, those now given.

254 GEOLOGY.

for about twenty miles, without a single hill to break the monotony of the surface. The wide
plain is dotted with splendid oaks, Quercus Hindsii, which give it a park-like character like the
valley of San José. l

At the distance of twenty miles from Stockton a gentle undulation of the surface is observable,
and long, gently sloping hills of slight elevation are visible on each side of the road. Horizontal
strata crop out in long lines on their sides, and they appear to be the remains of a former slope
of Tertiary deposits. Hills of this character soon limit the view on each side, and are found as
far as Knight's Ferry, on the Stanislaus. At this point they are no longer low hills, but rise
high above the stream, forming ‘almost precipitous banks, in which the strata are distinctly
exposed. The wide opening made by the river permits the outlines of distant ridges or plateaux

to be seen, and they present a magnificent appearance. The strata lie piled together nearly

2,000 feet thick, and their nearly horizontal edges can be traced for miles. The distant hills are
evidently the margins.of a plateau or gentle slope, once the bottom of a Tertiary sea. This
exposure of strata is several miles south of the terry, but similar bluffs, though of less altitude,
face the river a short distance below the crossing. Here the sandstone beds are hard, and the
river flows over them in rapids. "The tops of the banks are covered with large, round blocks of
basalt or amygdaloidal volcanic rocks, and they appear to have been derived from the edges of
a horizontal layer in the vicinity. "There are indications of a great dyke cutting through the
strata, but it may be older than them, and the beds may have been formed around it. Recent
overflows of basalt are, however, not far distant, and the distant plateau is probably covered in
part by this roof-like protector from rapid denudation.

Mining operations are conducted all along this part of the Stanislaus, and the tributary
ravines, in the river-drift or gravel and sand of its bed and shores. On crossing the river, and
rising the opposite bank, abundance of round, weather-worn masses of basaltic rock were found;
they are probably from a dyke or overflow. The old metamorphic or Azoic slates crop outa
short distance beyond. They are talcose and chloritic, and are nearly vertical; standing out
in high slabs, arranged in lines like grave-stones. They are called grave-stone slates by the
miners; and, in fact, are the tomb-stones of past ages. The road extends nearly at right
angles to the trend of these slates, and I traversed a vast thickness. "The country is open and
undulating, and there are but few trees. The ascent became more and more rapid, and at
Green Spring Cottage the aspect of the landscape had changed. Green trees and grass-covered
slopes succeeded to the bare and parched hills, From Green Spring Cottage there is a beautiful
view towards Burns’ Ferry, and the edges of distant plateaux are visible, and a gap in them
made by the river. "The summit of these plateaux is formed. of basalt, and the rock weathers
with bluff margins, precisely as along the San Joaquin at Fort Miller. This plateau at Burns'
Ferry must be much more elevated than that seen at the south of Knight's Ferry.

At Montezuma, and in the vicinity, there are extensive alluvial flats from which much fine
gold is taken. "The earth and stones of a great area have been excavated to the bed-rock and
washed. ;

Jamestown, three miles beyond Montezuma, and four from Sonora, is a thriving mi :
village. Wood’s Creek, upon which it is situated, was one of the richest for its extent in Cali-
fornia, and is celebrated for its abundant yield of gold.

Sonora, though far in the mountains, has its churches, hotels, bath-houses, and other —
paniments of cities of older and slower growth. It is one of the largest and most ۵
towns in the mining districts south of Mokelumne Hill. y

Visited the mill of the “ Tuolumne Quartz Company." It is provided with an engine of

ning

AURIFEROUS QUARTZ—METAMORPHIC LIMESTONE—SOLUTION OF THE ROCK. 255

sixty horse-power, eighteen stamps, and a Chillian mill. The gold is chiefly caught upon
blankets, and in ripple-boxes provided with amalgamated copper cleats. Shaking-tables and
bowls are not used. The veins trend N. and N. 22° E., and the quartz contains cavities stained
black with oxides of iron and manganese. Several specimens in which the gold was distinctly
visible were shown to me by Mr. Smith, the superintendent; but in general the quartz is much
stained by the decomposition of pyrites, and the gold does not appear. The pile of ore ready
for the stamps was almost identical in its appearance with the quartz from the upper parts of
the veins in Virginia and the Carolinas.

SONORA TO MURPHY’S. —

August. 6.—We left Sonora and travelled towards Murphy’s, passing through Shaw’s Flat,
Springfield, and Columbia. Extensive outcrops of white limestone were passed, and the town
of Columbia is built upon this formation. The town was completely destroyed by fire in July
last, only two buildings having escaped; but it is now nearly rebuilt, and business is going
forward as before. Fire-proof brick stores are in progress, and Gothic cottage residences grace
the outskirts of the place.

The white limestone which underlies the vicinity is peculiarly compact and finely granular,
and is seamed and veined with blue; in some parts appearing like a mixture of blue and white

| grains, forming a marble of good quality. The blue lines are, however, generally parallel, or

in layers corresponding to the trend of the beds. The surface wears unequally, so that it is fur-
rowed in long lines, making the trend of the outcrops still more distinct. These layers, or
beds, brought out so distinctly by weathering, are probably the result of deposition, and the
rock gives many evidences of sedimentary origin, except fossils. The crystalline structure does
not favor this view of its origin, but it is doubtless metamorphic.

The gold from the vicinity of Columbia is very fine, and commands high prices ; $18 and
$18 50 being paid for it by theounce, at the express offices. Nearly all of the gold is taken
from the deep crevices and fissures of the limestone, at variable depths from the surface—from
four to twenty-five feet, The peculiarly irregular character of the underground surface of the
limestone is worthy of particular notice, and it is well exposed to view by the excavations.
Wherever the earth is removed, irregular columns and sharp pinnacles of the rock are left
standing ; some of them being supported on a narrow neck at the base, and are thus in a con-

IRREGULAR SURFACE OF LIMESTONE EXPOSED BY MINING. x:

dition to be easi] y overturned when the surrounding rock is removed. The fissures or spaces
between some of the masses are so narrow and crooked that the rock has to be broken away to
permit the removal of the gravel and gold from the bottom. Many masses are found entirely
loose and disconnected from the subjacent rock, and are found to end in a long, sharp point
projecting downwards, while the upper portions are several feet in diameter. "These loose
Masses are broken up and removed by the miners, and are generally supposed to be boulders

T transported fragments. It is evident, however, that they are not erratics, but that they are

256 GEOLOGY.

formed by the decomposition of the rock. The spaces between these vertical crags of limestone
are filled in with earth, clay, and gravel, and large fragments of slate. Gold is found in a
stiff, blue clay, at the bottom and sides of the spaces.

All the phenomena point to a most remarkable and rapid solution of the surface of the lime-
stone, and it appears to have taken place after the surface was covered with the auriferons
deposits. Such a surface could never be formed by denudation or the wearing action of currents;
it is totally different, and the irregular and ragged, yet smooth, surface of the blocks shows the
action of solvents, and is not the result of attrition. The imbedded pear-shaped masses of lime- .
stone, with the points downwards, show the action of solvents subsequent to the deposition of
the gravel, for they are supported by it. If the solution of the rock has thus been subsequent
to the deposition of the auriferous clay and gravel, these accumulations must have sank down-
wards by their own weight as rapidly as the underlying rock was removed. This is indicated
by the fact that gold is found imbedded in blue clay on the sides of some of the vertical masses
of limestone, while the adjoining materials, at that level, are merely coarse gravel and fragments
of slate. A portion of the clay, containing the gold, would thus appear to have adhered to the
sides of the fissure, while the central portions were forced downwards by the weight of the
superincumbent materials. I am unable to account for these conditions in any other way. It
is not possible to determine the nature of the solvent with certainty, but it is most probable that
it was acidulated water formed by the decomposition of pyrites in the drift and soil, or, possibly,
water charged with carbonic acid alone. The whole surface may have been submerged for a
long time, forming the bottom of a shallow lake or marsh. "This is indicated by the uniform
deposition of the clay and other materials over a wide area. It is, however, quite possible that
all the decomposition has been accomplished by percolating water alone, since the surface became
nearly or quite dry. An enormous quantity of limestone has been removed, the fissures in many
places being over twenty-five feet deep, and the solution must have drained away underground
towards the river, or formed deposits of gypsum or travertin in the vicinity. The general
appearance of the cross-section of a broad excavation among these projecting crags is shown in
the figure, the trend and inclination of the limestone being retained by the remaining masses.
It is probable that at some points the spaces between the masses of limestone extend downwards
for a very great distance, and may have been worn by subterranean currents far beyond the
reach of ordinary mining operations. The gold obtained from these deposits is coarse, but
seldom exceeds the size of peas or beans.!

A part of the blue clay from this vicinity is exceedingly rich in fine gold, but its tenacity and
toughness prevents the gold from being readily washed ont. The clay is, therefore, raised to
the surface and spread out to dry in the sun; and is afterwards pulverized and then washed.
Enormous teeth, both of the Mammoth and Mastodon, have been obtained here in considerable
numbers, but I was disappointed to find that they had all been burned in the recent conflagra-
tion. It is said that some of them were imbedded in thejaw. Atanother flat, several miles beyond,
a large tusk was exhumed, but, being exposed to the weather in front of a miner's cabin, it
soon fell to pieces, and was lost. 1

We descended long and very steep hills to the level of the Stanislaus River and erossed by
Abbey’s Ferry. Granite was observed. The slopes of the River cation are wooded with p
and oaks. Granite and white limestone were observed after crossing ; the limestone trending

1 Sir R. I. Murchison gives a figure of an eroded and irregular surface of limestone in the Urals, from which auriferous

۱ irregular surface

f the
alluvia had been removed by mining. This surface was, perhaps, formed in the same manner as the m
limestone in California-— Russia in Europe and the Urals, i, p. 487. Siluria, p. 442.

INDIAN SKULLS—CAVE—MAMMOTH—PINE FOREST. 257

N, 60° to N. 75° W. It is intercalated with mica-slate in thin layers. A trap dyke four feet
thick was found after gaining the level of the plateau or *divide." It traverses the limestone,
and trends N. 45° E., S. 45? W., following the stratification or structure of the limestone.
Basalt occurs beyond, in a horizontal layer, and, on approaching Douglas Flat, the margin of a
broad plain of this rock is visible high up on the tops of the ridges.

We passed the mouth of a cave which has recently attracted so much attention, from the fact
that upwards of sixty human skulls, with bones, were found in it under a layer of black mould.
A pile of the bones was lying near by; judging from their appearance, they are of great
antiquity. Indian relics, arrow-heads, and perforated sea-shells, were found with them. An
old Indian states that, long before white men were seen in California, the northern Indians
came down to this valley and met his ancestors in battle. A great number was killed on both
sides, and, it being almost impossible for them to burn the bodies of so many, they were thrown
headlong into the mouth of the cave and were never afterwards disturbed. Whether this is the
true account of the accumulation of these remains there or not, it is impossible to say. It seems
very probable. j

Extensive mining operations are carried on at Murphy's in a flat behind the village. The
whole area is claimed, and mostly dug over. The drift is coarse, and consists, in great part,
of fragments of talcose slate, from three to six and eight or more inches in length. A fine spe-
cimen—the tooth of a mastodon— was exhibited to me, but could not be obtained. It was much
worn. Another specimen was described as having been formed in plates, “which were split
apart so as to give a tooth to each owner in the claim ;” this was doubtless a molar of a mam-
moth or Elephas primigenius. Many of these relics of the past are thus destroyed, or they are
carefully preserved in obscurity. If they are ever offered for sale, it is at the most absurd and
fanciful prices.

MAMMOTH TREES.

August 7.—We left Murphy's in the afternoon for the grove of “ Big Trees," about fifteen
miles distant. We soon entered a narrow valley, and commenced ascending the cafion of a
small stream. The hills on each side were partially covered with oaks, and afforded an agree-
able shade from the sun, after traversing the almost treeless flats. The aqueduct of the Union
Water Company is constructed along this valley, and we caught occasional glimpses of =
flume stretching across the ravine, and high in the air among the topmost branches of the pines
and oaks. These flumes, and the canal, are of sufficient capacity to carry the water of a good-
sized mill-stream, The canal is about five feet wide, and is thoroughly made. It, with the
flumes, is said to extend ninety miles. The capital stock of the company is $200,000, and یف‎
dividends, of four per cent., have been paid, or eight per cent. for two months. It being in
contemplation to extend a branch to connect the upper end of the aqueduct with the head-waters
of the Stanislaus, the dividends are now withheld. -It is expected that the extension will pro-
vide a most abundant supply of water, not only for mining, but agricultural purposes.

As we proceeded, the surface became more undulating, and we rode through dense forests of
tall pines, towering up as straight as a liberty pole for two hundred feet or more. The soil
appeared deep and rich, and there were very few outcrops of rock. The absence of underwood
Permits the surface to be seen for a considerable distance on each side.

ese giant pines stand so widely apart, and are so free from limbs up to a height of fifty or
Seventy feet and more, that vision can extend, under their shade, to a great distance. The
33 F

258 GEOLOGY.

grandeur of the scene cannot be described ; it must be seen to be felt. The surface is moulded
on a scale commensurate with this mighty forest. It rises in graceful swells, miles in extent,
into mountain-like elevations, so smooth and rounded that a carriage may be driven almost
anywhere among the lordly trees.

` About sundown we reached an eminence, and commenced descending into a sheltered valley.
The hills on all sides were densely covered with pines and spruces, and there was some under-
growth. The shadows became more dense, and at dark we reached the level of the valley,
passing on our way one or two giant trunks, which rose above the gloom of the forest into the
twilight above. We dismounted at the door of ‘‘ Big Tree Cottage," a comfortable frame
building erected by Mr. Lapham, where we passed the night, surrounded by the shadows of the
most magnificent forest yet known on earth.

August 8.—' This valley is sheltered on all sides, and it has a very deep and moist soil. This
was shown by the earth thrown out when the well was dug ; it is nearly all granitic sand and
gravel and fine clay. The only rock observed was a compact, gray granite, and some round
basaltic blocks, on the surface of the hills on one side of the valley. This depression is so much
sheltered by the ridges and high forests around that there is little violent wind ; and it is said
that the ground does not freeze to a great depth in winter, although there is about thirty inches
of snow from January to April. The elevation is estimated at 2,400 feet above Murphy's, and
4,550 above the sea. These results are reported to have been obtained by Captain Hanford, the
engineer of the Union Water Company. The crest of the Sierra is about thirty-five miles distant,
but the lowest limit of the snow is only fifteen miles.

The first of the great trees that claimed our attention is at the side of the cottage, and lies
prostrate upon the earth. It was cut down by boring through it with pump-augers about six
feet above the ground. This operation employed five men for three weeks. The stump being
nearly flat, was smoothed off perfectly level, and now forms the floor of a good-sized room con-
nected with the house. The solid wood of this stump—for it is sound to the very centre—is
twenty-five feet in diameter, and, adding the thickness of the bark, the whole diameter is about
twenty-eight feet; lower down, at the surface of the ground, it is probably thirty-two or thirty-
three feet. The largest tree now standing, called the Mammoth, is about the same size, but 18
imperfect on one side, a portion having been burned out by a fire at the roots. This tree was
carefully measured with a tape, and its circumference found to be ninety-four feet, giving about
thirty-one feet as its diameter.

Mr. Lapham states that he has counted about one hundred and ninety trees, including the
young and old. Of those of such gigantic proportions, however, there appears to be only about
twenty, and these vary in their diameters. The principal trees have received fanciful names,
such as, Father of the Forest, Beauty of the Forest, Pioneer's Cabin, Three Sisters, Old Maid,
Mammoth, &c. Although I did not measure the heights of these trees, I saw no reason to ques-
tion the accuracy of the statements that have been made, and I believe them to range from
three hundred to three hundred and sixty feet in height. One is said to be three hundred and
sixty-three feet; and an old one, lying prostrate, and much decayed, appears to have been over
four hundred feet high. The prostrate tree is hollow, and I walked through it erect for a long
distance. It is said that, before the lower part became filled up by earth and stones, prought
in by a brook, a man could ride through on horseback. Most of the trees appear to have been
much broken and deformed by the storms of centuries. The limbs are very short and thick, the
foliage appearing to be in thick bunches around the trunk. The most perfectly formed tree ۶

ee

MAMMOTH TREE "BEAUTY OF THE FOREST.

MAMMOTH TREES—QUARTZ ROCK—BASALT—CAVE. 259

the group is called the Beauty of the Forest, and it is favorably exposed to view by the clearing
which has been made around Mr. Lapham's hotel. A sketch of it is presented with this report,
View XIV. It is said to be only fifteen fest in diameter at the base, and three hundred and
twenty-five feet high. It is surrounded by a forest of large pines and firs and a thick under-
growth of small trees. |

The tree which was cut down was partly used for lumber, and a part of the top has been
levelled off, and a full-length double bowling-alley built on it. The log tapers so gradually,
and its great diameter is so well preserved for along distance, that at the extreme end of the
alley it is not possible to get from the ground to the top of the log without climbing up by the
limbs. "The bark was stripped off from the lower part of the log and sent away for exhibition.
Since that time a second tree has been stripped of its bark to the height of ninety feet, and
the tree is still standing. It is the intention of the proprietors of the grove to surround it with
a spiral staircase, so that visitors may ascend to the top, and have a full view of the surrounding
forest, with here and there a giant trunk rising above it.

It had been stated that these gigantic trees were about 3,000 years old, and this appeared to
be the belief at the locality. The end of the great, fallen trunk, which had been cut square off by a
cross-cut saw, was favorably exposed for examination, and all the rings of annual growth could
be distinetly seen. A portion of this was measured, and the rings were counted; the result
was, that I became satisfied that the tree could not have been more than 1,200 years in attain-
ing its growth. If time had permitted, the exact age, as far as indicated by the annual rings,
would have been determined!

CAVE CITY.

From the Mammoth Grove we passed by a horse-trail, or bridle-path, over the hills for about
eighteen miles to Cave City, a new mining town near a great cave in the limestone. Soon after
leaving the great forest-covered valley, the hills became less thickly covered, and at last they |
were almost devoid of trees. Granite was the chief underlying rock for the greater part of the
Way; but wesaw great numbers of round blocks of basalt strewn over the surface here and
there, as if they were derived from the weathering of a horizontal layer. "The descent from
the elevated region of the trees became rapid, and at length the trail skirted the margin of a
broad valley far below us. At the foot of a long hill we came suddenly upon an immense mass
of quartz-rock jutting out from the side of the mountain and rising some fifty or sixty feet
above the trail. On gaining the top, by the aid of cedars growing along its precipitous side,
we found that it formed a sheer precipice, twelve or fifteen hundred feet high, overlooking the
valley. This is a most favorable point from which to view the valley ; it extends for several
miles in every direction, and is thickly wooded with pines. The distant ridges are also well
wooded with tall, conical pines; and on the west a long line of plateaux show horizontal
terraces and lines of the strata. They are over 2,000 feet high, and can be traced for miles,
reaching across valleys over ten miles wide. These strata are probably a continuation of those
at Knight's Ferry, Abbey's Ferry, and Mokelumne Hill.

After descending by the winding trail to the level of the valley, and crossing to hills on the
Opposite side, we looked back and saw a most beautiful water-fall, with a descent of about a

* The eminent English botanist, Prof. Lindley, on receiving specimens of this remarkable tree, regarded it as forming a
Dew genus, and he proposed for it the name Wellingtonia gigantea. Prof. Torrey, having recently received a great number of
more perfect specimens, decides that the tree ust be referred to the old genus Sequoia, and it is now known as Sequoia
Jc. Tt is similar in many respecta to the redwood, Séguoia sempervirens.

260 GEOLOGY.

thousand feet, pouring from the top of the ridge into the valley below. After winding about
in circuitous ravines between the edges of horizontal strata, capped in some places by basaltic
layers high above us, we reached the Cave House, built at the base of a ridge of the white
limestone, the continuation of the same which occurs further south, at Columbia and beyond,
At this point the trend is from N. 50? W. to N. 75? W., and the beds incline towards the east
at a high angle. The trend is remarkably distinct, the rock being weathered in long parallel
lines corresponding to what was probably the original stratification of the rock.

We entered and explored the ** Great Cave." It consists of a series of passages and cham-
bers of great extent, worn in the rock by the solvent power of water holding carbonic acid in
solution. These chambers are irregular, and generally the trend of the limestone is distinctly
shown in the walls and ceiling by the irregularity of the decomposition or solution of the rock,
some of the layers being much more rapidly acted on than others, precisely as we find on the
surface.

Several of the chambers are lined with stalactites and stalagmites of great beauty. The
stalactites often reach from the ceiling to the floor of the caverns, and thus form grottos with
alabaster-like walls, presenting a splendid appearance when illuminated by candles. Nearly
all of the lime which is thus deposited is highly crystalline, and reflects back the light of the
candles from myriads of brilliant facets. Where the calcareous water has oozed from fissures
in the walls, and ran down to the floor, great deposits of the crystalline lime have been formed,
and they appear at a little distance like foaming water-falls, so perfect is their resemblance to
them in shape.

MURPHY’S TO SACRAMENTO.

August 9.—Murphy’s to Mokelumne Hill, 34 miles.—At Angel’s camp, ten miles from Murphy’s,
the talcose slates come into full view, and are traversed by quartz veins. At one of the mines,
a thin vein of quartz bears a quantity of white iron pyrites and gold. The pyrites is also found
in the adjoining slates in brilliant cubes, forming interesting cabinet specimens. The slates
are light-colored, and like those which are similarly charged with pyrites in North Carolina.
The veins appear to be conformable with the slates, and trend a little west of north. Several
outcrops of the slate seen before reaching Angel’s camp were nearly cast and west in their trend,
and were inclined at an angle of about 45° towards the north.

We reached the outskirts^of Mokelumne Hill after dark, and came near driving into the
mouth of an open pit, one of the abandoned mining shafts which line the road on each side.
This town is one of the oldest in the mining region, having been commenced in 1849, and it has
been noted as one of the richest mining localities in the southern mines. It is on the south side
of, and over a thousand feet above, the Mokelumne river. It is well supplied with water, under
a pressure of 110 feet, from a reservoir. The mining is chiefly in a coarse drift of gravel and
boulders, many feet below the surface. I am informed that the gold is nearly all coarse; and
that the greatest part is in grains worth from fifty cents to ten dollars. A high hill adjoining
the town is composed of horizontal strata, chiefly soft and semi-consolidated clays, and fine sand
of volcanic origin. They are not well exposed to view, but a part of the hill extends out in a low
spur, formed of a comparatively hard stratum of a peculiar pink sandstone, composed in à great
part of pumice-stone and its fine dust. This stone is quarried in large blocks, and being very
light and easily cut, is sent down to San Francisco for the erection of a block of buildings: Is

AURIFEROUS DEPOSITS—PLAIN——GRANITE—CLAY SLATE. 261

is not clearly marked by lines of deposition or stratification, but appears to be regularly stratified.
Some of the layers are nearly white or gray.

Many shafts have been sunk into these rocks in search of the ‘‘lead’’ or ‘‘pay-dirt,’’ but without
any success. The layer of auriferous drift, however, appears to underlie these strata, for tunnels
are excavated at the base of the hill and extend under it. Whether the drift was washed under
the edges of these strata, or does in reality underlie them, being older, I could not determine in
the short time devoted to the examination. The strata appear like the Tertiary of Ocoya
Creek.

August 10.— Mokelumne Hill to Sacramento.—Left Mokelumne Hill at four in the morning,
and descended a long hill to the level of the Mokelumne river, which is spanned by a neat and
well-constructed bridge. The surface of the country in the vicinity of Ione Valley is rounded
and undulating, and is covered by oak openings. The soil is good. The bottom-laná of the
Cosumnes River is very broad, and well wooded with groves of oak. There is a wide area of
excellent agricultural land at this place, and many fields are enclosed with board fences. The
river is a stream of considerable magnitude and flows slowly. It is crossed by a suspension
bridge in one span.

After crossing the alluvial plain bordering the stream, we rise up to the level of the wide and
regular slope, which is without trees, and, at this season, appears perfectly barren and desert-
like. It is in all respects like the same slope further south along the San Joaquin. Distant
rivers are indicated by long lines of trees, that sometimes loom up by mirage and appear to be
suspended above the verge of the horizon. We traversed this broad plain towards Sacramento,
stopping at three stations, where water is obtained for the horses from wells. :

Sacramento is located upon the alluvial deposits of the river, and is surrounded by a levee to
prevent inundations. Oaks and cotton-wood are the prevailing trees.

SACRAMENTO TO YANKEE JIM’S.

August 12.—Sacramento to Auburn, 40 miles.—We traversed the long and gently ascending
slope towards the mountains. At Oak Grove, about ten miles from Sacramento, the surface is
undulating and is covered with groves of oak of two species: (Quercus macradenia, Torrey,
probably Q. Hindsii, Benth.,) and Q. agrifolia.

Granite crops out along the road about twenty-five miles from Sacramento. It corresponds
very nearly with that obtained from the banks of the American River at Mormon Island. It is
traversed by feldspathic, or coarse granitic veins like those at Monterey, and weathers into
large, rounded blocks, which rest like great boulders on the surface. These are very abundant
1n some places, but are the result of slow decomposition alone ; they are not transported masses.
There appears to be a very thin layer of drift or auriferous earth in this vicinity, and mining
operations are in progress on some of the flats.

About four miles from Auburn outcrops of clay slate were passed, and one of the ridges is
Covered with loose, boulder-like blocks of basaltic rock, probably derived from a layer in place.

; Auburn to Yankee Jim’s, 224 miles.—On leaving Auburn the road immediately ascends a
ridge formed of the vertical layers of clay slate. "This formation continues to the American
River, which has cut its deep channel or cafion in it. The sides of the canon are abrupt and
Precipitous, and probably are not less than 35° in inclination at any point ¡in the vicinity.

road. is. constructed from the summit of the divide (or plateau between the streams) down

262 GEOLOGY.

to the river, and necessarily winds along the steep sides of the cañon for a long distance, forming
a zigzag descent. This road, being cut into the steep sides of the mountain, is very narrow and
bounded on one side by the steep ascent, like a wall, and on the other by the precipitous descent
to the river below. Both wheels of the stage being locked and placed in iron shoes, we slid
rather than rolled aleng the road, until the bridge at the bottom of the valley was reached.
The projecting edges of slate are visible in the sides of the cañon, and are very distinct in the
bed of the river and on the opposite side.

The water of the river was low, and several groups of miners were seen along the dry parts of
the bed mining for gold among the river-drift and sands. A party of Chinamen were thus
engaged, and two of them were throwing out the water from a pit in a very ingenious manner.
They stand on opposite sides of the excavation, and swing a bucket by means of four ropes. It
is thrown into the water at the bottom of the pit, filled, raised, and emptied on the outside, with
great rapidity and ease. The bucket is thus in constant motion, and an immense quantity of
water 1s thrown out in a short time.

A long and tedious ascent, on the opposite side of the stream, brought us to the level of the
divide, which the road follows, over a gently undulating surface, to Yankee Jim's. This mining
town is pleasantly located, and is about three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The
auriferous drift has been extensively worked, and its nature is well exposed in the sides of exca-
vations north of the main street. It is here seen to rest upon the upturned edges of slate, and
consists, in general, of coarse materials, much rounded and worn. Several layers consist of fine
granitie sand, and they alternate with boulders imbedded in clay and masses of decomposed
talcose slate. Much of the deposit is stained by oxideof iron. At one point the coarse materials
were underlaid by a bed of sand three feet thick. Portions of the beds were colored black by
infiltrated oxide of manganese, and at a little distance looked like beds of black sand or lignite.
About six feet below the surface of the bank the trunk of a tree protruded, showing that the
upper portions were of comparatively recent origin, being, probably, a wash from the hills.
These banks are washed away, and the gold obtained, by the ‘‘ hydraulic method’ 一 a new way
of mining, which has originated in the gold region of California.

YANKEE JIM’S TO MICHIGAN CITY.

August 14.— Yankee Jim's to Forest Hill.—A ride of a few miles from Yankee Jim's brought
us to Forest Hill, an interesting mining locality on the north bank of the Middle fork of the
American River. The surface is covered with pine trees, and it slopes rapidly towards the deep
cañon of the stream, which flows full 2,500 feet below, the top of the hill being 2,800 feet above
the water. There is an interesting placer mine at this place, owned principally by the Messrs.
Deidesheimer, by whom I was hospitably entertained and conducted to all parts of their mine.
The underlying rocks do not appear on the upper parts of the hill and slope, but near the
entrance to the tunnel of the mine they crop out, and are exposed in the cuttings. They consist
of light-colored talcose slates, partly decomposed or softened, trending north 5° to 10° east. The
tunnel, or entrance to the mine, is cut through these slates for four hundred and twenty feet to
the layer of drift containing the gold. The slate thus forms a rim or margin of a basin-shaped
depression, in which the gold accumulated. At the end of the tunnel the workings diverge T
different directions, and follow the surface of the bed-rock. The auriferous portion of the
is found resting upon the edges of the slates, and is excavated in all directions, loaded into cars,

PLACER MINES—SILICIFIED WOOD—-CAÑONS. 263

and carried out through the tunnel upon a tram-road, and dumped into a large bin made to
receive it. The refuse, or attle of the Cornishman, is switched off from the main track and
dumped in another place. The ‘‘ pay-dirt,’’ as the auriferous earth is called, is occasionally
moistened with water while in the bin, and when a quantity is collected, it is washed out in a
long sluice. "This pay-dirt consisted, in great part, of fine talcose clay, derived from the abra-
sion of talcose slate, and was mingled with fragments of the slate broken from the bed-rock.
On sprinkling the surface of the heap with water, the gold became visible in yellow fragments
and flattened, bean-shaped masses. The gold is very coarse, and is not much worn and rounded
by attrition. Many of the masses are crystalline, and are distorted and flattened octahedrons,
evidently not transported far from their original source. Quartz crystals are also found in this
earth, and, although the sharp points and angles are removed by abrasion, the faces retain their
natural polish, and show that the agitation of the drift or gravel, with which the crystals were
deposited, was not of long continuance. Many large masses of cellular quartz, from three to
six and ten inches in diameter, are also thrown out from the mine, and there being no provision
for erushing them, they are thrown aside. On crushing one of these in a mortar, and washing
the powder, a string of «^ color”? was obtained. It is evident that these masses were not trans-
ported far from their source, and there is a quartz vein in the vicinity withgnt doubt.

At Sarahville, several miles beyond, the auriferous drift was exposed in bluffs, which, at one
point, presented the following succession of beds from the surface downwards :

Feet.
Blue clay 10
Clay with oxide of iron 9
White clay 9
Sand and clay $
Sand 9
Gravel and boulders 95
Sand and gra vel 4
Coarse gravel and boulders 95

The point of junction the drift with the slates was not visible, but the lower stratum of
gravel and boulders probably rests upon the edges. Many of the rocks thrown out from these
layers of drift are of volcanic origin. One block, over a foot in diameter, was dark-green, and
broke, with a conchoidal fracture, into sharp, vitreous fragments like pitchstone. It is mottled
with red and green veins, and is chiefly silex. Many of the masses of slate are very hard and
highly metamorphosed.

Masses of silicified wood and even large trees turned into stone have been found in this vicinity
In one claim it is said that a silicified tree was eighty feet long. A fragment of it, which was
Shown to me, was nearly white, but compact and glassy, every cell and pore being filled with
the silica. The grain, rings of annual growth, and medullary rays were remarkably distinct.
Several specimens of other masses were procured. A slab of rock or quartz was carefully pre-
served by one of the residents here as a great curiosity, it being covered on one side by the moss
like and arborescent coats of oxide of manganese. These are generally mistaken for fossil plants.
It is said that about two years ago some miners turned up a slab of this kind, very distinctly
marked, and, seeing a resemblance in the outlines to the pine-covered hills, they concluded it to
be a natural daguerreotype ofthe ridges on the opposite side of the river.

The road from Forest Hill to Michigan City winds about on the elevated plateau of the divide,
among tall pines and firs, and skirts the deep cañoned valley of the Middle Fork. The stream
was flowing nearly three thousand feet below us for most of the distance. These cañons are

264 GEOLOGY.

like great furrows in a vast slope or plateau. Before reaching Sarahville we stopped at Baker’s
Rancho, a house beautifully located among the tall pines. There is a fine spring of pure cold
water a short distance above, and a pipe from it delivers a constant stream into a large trough
at the foot of a towering pine. This trough is a giant of its kind, being twenty feet long, three
wide, and two deep. It is cut from a single log, and the bottom is strewn with quartz crystals
and pebbles, which show distinctly through the transparent water.

Among the pines which grow so luxuriantly upon the slopes of the Sierra Nevada, the sugar
pine (Pinus lambertiana) is one of the most interesting. Its common name is derived from the
fact that a sweet, sugar-like substance exudes from the wood of the trunk where it has been cut
or burnt. This is found in considerable quantities, and is well known in the mining region.
In its properties it is much like manna, which I at first supposed it to be. It proves, however,
to be a new substance, to which the name nite has been given. !

Michigan City.—This thriving mining town is on the north side of the Middle Fork, and
about 2,000 feet above the stream. The surface was originally covered with a pine forest; but
most of the trees have been cut away, and those that remain near the town are trimmed up to
the very top, so that they more resemble liberty poles than trees. In June, 1852, the site was
marked by but one little log cabin, and to-day it is one of the largest towns in the country.
There is here a deep and widely-extended deposit of auriferous drift, covering the underlying
slate from view. Whole acres of this drift have been swept away by the miners to a depth of
from ten to sixty feet, or down to the ‘‘bed-rock’’ of slate. The edges of the slate are thus
exposed, and trend N. 5? E. ; they are nearly vertical, but incline slightly to the east. The
surface is very uneven ; and in some places the projecting layers reach nearly to the surface of
the ground, thus making the thickness of the layer of drift very unequal.

* After my return from California I submitted a sample of the ** pine sugar” to Professor S. W. Johnson, of the Yale Scientific
School, who gave it a chemical examination, with the following result: í

‘ The pine sugar had the form of rounded rough nodules, half an inch and more in diameter ; some were nearly whi —-
were of a brown color. They were almost completely soluble in water and in boiling alcohol, yielding a reddish-brown liquid.
The alcoholic solution was partly decolorized by bone-black, and a quantity of ether added to it, which caused a dense milkiness.
After some hours, globular or stellate deposits of white and mostly opaque crystals were formed on the sides and bottom of the
vessel, while the liquid became clear. If too much ether was added, a small quantity of syrup of uncrystallizable E) wager
gathered in globules at the bottom of the liquid. The crystals thus obtained were further purified by recrystallization ; jr

a pure and intense sweet taste, are very hard, brittle, and, unless pulverized, dissolve but slowly in boiling alcohol.
substance of bitter taste accumulated in the mother-liquors. >” lot's

After having procured these crystals in a state of purity, and remarked their non-identity with mannite, &c., Berthe
paper on several new sugars, (Compt. Rend, 1855, No. 12, p. 452, t. xli,) came to hand. This chemist
body in question under the name of pinite. He relates that it is yielded by the Pinus lambertiana of California, kar
from cavities made by the aid of fire near the roots of the tree. According to Berthelot, **it possesses right pape

is incapable of fermentation, even after treatment with sulphuric acid. Its analysis led to the formula oen, a ey
Acetate of lead-oxide ammonia precipitates from its solutions the compound C1», His, O10, 4 PP O. It is isomeric W?
quercite, but differs from that body in crystalline form, and has a greater solubility and sweetness >” -—
“The quantity at my disposal was so small that I only attempted to make an ultimate analysis; my results were aped
vitiated by the fracture of the combustion tube after the burning was complete, but before the carbonic acid had been fully
carried into the potash bulbs. Below are the obtained numbers compared with those required by Berthelot's formula.
. Calculated. Found.
Cis = IR 43.90 42.75
. His = R.. 7.32 7.40
O10 80 48.78 49.85

164 100.00 100.00

te, others

In another paper Berthelot describes a large number of compounds of sugars with acids. Amon these are the acid and —
stearates and benzoates of pinite. He has further found that when these compounds are saponified there is obtained ین‎ "E in
acid, and not pinite, but a substance which gradually passes into pinite. The name pinite is very objectionable, - and Arts,
orthography with one appellation of a mineral which is overleaded with synonyms. "—.merican Journal of Science

9d series, vol. xxii., p. 8; July, 1856. :

E A y eur LE YER TN a na ran و‎ NES INS.

HYDRAULIC METHOD OF MINING. 265

‚The drift is almost entirely composed of snow-white masses of quartz, in great round blocks
from three to six feet in diameter, intermingled with smaller boulders of all sizes, and gravel
and sand, all of the same material. A very considerable amount of peroxide of iron is mingled
with the drift in some places, and imparts a light-red color to the mass. All these blocks of
quartz are very much rounded and water-worn, and the whole deposit is rudely stratified in
irregular beds of variable thickness. Inclined or diagonal stratification is very distinct in
nearly all of the cuttings, and shows the action of varying currents at the time of the deposi-
tion of the beds. It is probable, from the indications, that these currents were from the north
and east. They must have been very strong and violent to transport such great boulders of
quartz.

The gold is coarse, and appears to be distributed throughout the mass of the drift from the
surface to the bed-rock ; it is most abundant at the bottom, but the drift ‘“‘pays’’ throughout.
The gold is not uniformly distributed, but the amount in the different claims is unequal. One
of the claims yielded $48,000 in five months. This was worked by nine men night and day,
at an expense of $13,000, leaving a clear profit of $35,000. The usual yield is from six to
eight dollars a day (ten hours) to each man, but some claims pay from twenty to thirty. The
heaviest lump of gold which has been taken out at tho Bluffs weighed four pounds.

m - — ا‎ 07 d mi

> 1 =

AZ MINING »: و‎ METHOD, MICHIGAN CITY.
All this drift is washed by what is called the “hydraulic method," an improvement in the
art of placer mining and washing which originated among the miners of California, and which
enables them to mine and wash nearly ten tons of earth where, under the old methods, they
‚could scarcely wash one. T
34 F

266 | GEOLOGY.

This process, so new to all but Californians, is well exhibited at Michigan City, and will be
briefly described. :

The annexed engraving is from a daguerreotype of one of the claims, and shows their general
appearance. On one side we see the bank, or bluff, formed by the drift, which has not been
disturbed. The top of this bank is the general level of the surface, and was once covered by
pine trees, as shown by the stumps and the treesin the distance.

The frame, or staging, elevated above the surface, is a flume, or open conduit, for the water,
and is highest in the back-ground, and the water flows towards the bluff, although in the picture
thé descent appears to be in the other direction. At the end of this sluice a barrel is placed to
receive the water, and a long hose-pipe of leather is attached to its bottom, and extends down
along a favorable part of the bank to the level of the bed-rock below. In the engraving the
bed-rock is not seen, being completely covered by the large boulders of quartz that have been
excavated from the bank and washed. The bank is not attacked by pickaxe and shovel, but a
powerful jet of water, delivered through the hose from the reservoir above, is thrown against
its base. "The earth is soon washed away, and the overhanging mass of drift of earth and loose
boulders falls to the ground. As rapidly as the finer portions are removed by the water, the
loose stones and boulders are thrown back out of the way, while the smaller fragments, together
with the sand, clay, and gold, are carried by the water into a long drain, or sluice-way, where
the gold is collected. The operation is thus a continuous one, and the earth is not handled or
transported except by the water. The only labor necessary is to remove the stones from the foot
of the bluff as rapidly as they are washed. The whole operation may be more readily under-
stood by the inspection of a sectional view of the claim, showing the bank of drift and the

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IDEAL SECTION OF A MINING CLAIM, MICHIGAN CITY

underlying bed-rock of slate. A space for the escape of the water and earth is also show?
under the heap; of stones thrown back of the base of the bank; but the sluice-ways are p
ally much larger, and in large claims are constructed at great cost, even by tunnelling through
solid rock in order to secure the proper descent. The entrance or opening to the gluices 18
secured by a grating of strong timbers, so that no large boulders can enter. à
The operation of sluicing is another striking and important feature in the art of mining; "

practised in California. Earth, gravel, and stones are washed by hundreds of tons in a ves
space of time without being handled. The sluice is a long channel or race-way to conduct t :
water or gravel, and is constructed either in the surface of the bed-rock by excavating, OT f"

of boards. The former is known as the ground-sluice, and the latter as the board-sluice.

CT ۵ A fATTETATTÓmQ €
DLUlILED Q

board-siuice is generally twelve or fifteen inches in width, and from eight to ten inches deep,

and is made in convenient lengths, so that one can be added to another until a length of two or

three hundred feet or more is obtained. False bottoms of boards pierced with holes, or a series
of raised cleats, are placed in the bottom of the sluice, and are intended to receive and retain the
gold, while the stones and gravel are washed away. Long bars, or a grating with the spaces
parallel with the sluice, are, however, generally preferred to the cross cleats or holes. The fall
or rate of descent of the sluice is varied according to circumstances, being arranged to suit the
size of the gold and the nature of the drift. One or two feet in a rod is a common inclination,
and with a good supply of water is sufficient to cause stones two or three inches in diameter to
roll from one end of the sluice to the other.

The earth, stones, and gold, as they enter these sluices with the water, are all mingled
together, but the current soon effects a separation ; the lighter portions are swept on in advance
and the gold remains behind and moves slowly forward until it drops down between the cleats
or bars. The larger stones and coarse gravel are swept on by the current, and after traversing
the whole length of the sluice are thrown out at the lower end. The operation, as in the case
of washing down the bank, is a continuous one, and requires little labor or attention, except to
keep the sluice from clogging. This is done by one or two men, who walk up and down and
throw out the large stones with forks.

The water for these operations at such a height above the river, and for the elevated pls

or “dry diggings”” generally, is brought in aqueducts from. the sources of the streams many
miles distant in the mountains. 'The water at Michigan City is supplied by the El Dorado
Company's aqueduct, at this time over ten miles in length, but soon to be extended so as to
reach ‘other sources of water. After traversing the aqueduct, the water is received into a
reservoir above the level of the claims, and from thence distributed to the consumers. 1t is sold
by the inch, being delivered from a horizontal aperture one inch high and twenty-four inches
long. This opening is at the side of a box twenty-four inches square and six inches deep, and is
opened or shut by a slide. This box is kept full of water by making a slight dam on the sides
of the ditch coming from the reservoir, and the stream is thus delivered under a constant
pressure of six inches. The opening is graduated to half inches, and for each inch of water
the miner pays fifty cents for each day of ten hours ; ; but i in the summer, or dry season, it is worth
Seventy-five cents.

MICHIGAN CITY TO NEVADA AND GRASS VALLEY.

August 15 poi سیا ر‎ City to Iowa Hill.—On leaving Michigan City we rode back for several
miles over the road by which we came, and then turned off to cross over the divide to the valley
ofthe North Fork. Several miles from the river, serpentine was observed outcropping in slaty
masses along the trail. The surface was also strewn with great numbers of spherical or globular
masses, which had been liberated by the weathering of the*rock. In this respect, and in its
lithological characters, the rock greatly resembles the serpentine of Fort Point, at the Golden
Gate. The rock at this place attains a great development, and forms a series of knob-like hills
that are bare and barren, and look like the Bare Hills near Baltimore, Maryland. These bare
tracts in the midst of a wooded region are familiarly known as Brimstone Plains.

We at length reached the margin of the divide above the North Fork, and looked off into the
chasm of the river. The rapid, but to us silent, current was winding about, over 2,000 feet

268 GEOLOGY.

below. The south banks at this point are nearly vertical, and 2,800 feet high. A fine view of
the distant ridges of the Sierra was here presented to us. We were on Wisconsin Hill, now
being settled upon by agriculturists.

Iowa Hill, Placer county, to Nevada.'—A thick deposit of drift is found at Nevada, resting
upon a bed-rock of gray granite. This granite, as exposed by the mining operations, is very
much decomposed and softened to a great depth, so that in places it may be removed with the
pick or shovel. These softened parts, however, contain hard, globular masses, from one or two
to over eight and ten feet in diameter. They look like great boulders, and lie thickly together
along the course of the little stream. Wherever the auriferous drift is removed the surface of
the granite is found to be very uneven, a condition which necessarily results from the mannerin
which the rock decomposes, and not from abrasion or denudation.

A vast quantity of earth has been washed here by the hydraulic method. One of the principal
claims is owned by Mr. Laird, formerly of Georgia, who has made an extensive excavation
backwards in the side of a hill formed of the drift. In washing this earth, the ground-sluice
has been extensively used. They are cut in the surface of the granite and converge from the
base of different parts of the bluff until they all unite and deliver the water into a board-sluice
below. These ground-sluices are said to catch and retain the gold more effectually than those
made of boards. The gold is, however, not so readily obtained or ‘‘cleaned up’’ from them.
` The operations in Nature—the concentration of gold in the beds of streams, from a wide area—
is thus imitated by these ground-sluices.

The gold of Coyote Lead is generally in fine scales, and is poor in quality. It is said that it
is sometimes sent to the southern mines to be mixed with better gold before offering it for sale.

Water was first brought to the Nevada Hills by the Rock Creek Ditch. This was seven miles
in length, cost about $14,000, and yielded, from the sale of water, $30,000 in the first two
months. Water was sold several times over, or, rather, it was used by several parties in suc-
cession, until, from the quantity of fine slime in suspension, it became as thick as pudding, and
would no longer run. For a supply of eight inches, the first parties paid two ounces & day,
the second twenty-four dollars, the third one ounce, and so on down to four dollars. The
aqueduct was afterwards sold for about three times its original cost, and has since paid fair
dividends, even for California.? Water is now sold for fifty cents an inch. The aqueduct of
the Deer Creek Company is said to have cost $25,000, and to have paid all the expenses of con-
struction in the first three months.

At Grass Valley I had the opportunity of visiting several of the principal qu'rtz mines
mills for the extraction of. the gold. These are located along Boston Ravine, the valley of a
small stream ; but, with one or two exceptions, the quartz is mined at a distance of one or chi
miles, and is carted to the mills. An interesting establishment and mine, on a moderate scale, T
held by the Empire Company, chiefly composed of gentlemen from New York. Their mill us
about a quarter of a mile from the town, and three-quarters of a mile from the mine on <“ Ophir
۱: £z ۳ ۱

The rocks between the mill and the mine are not well exposed to view, being chiefly covered
by soil and a layer of drift. Neither are they seen distinctly upon the surface at the mine, but
on descending the shaft for seventy-five or one hundred feet, they are found to consist of a hard
greenstone or trap. In some places along the ** ledge," or vein of quartz, it is fissile and slaty.
The ledge appears to trend north 10° to 30° west, and dips westwardly. Its thickness varies

! The notes for this part of the trip were all lost.
* I had these facts from a gentleman who was formerly engaged in mining near Nevada.

and

AURIFEROUS QUARTZ VEINS AND MINES OF GRASS VALLEY. 269

from three inches to a foot or more, and in some parts of the mine several narrow veins com-
bine and form a thickness of eighteen inches or two feet. This quartz is charged with veins of
white iron pyrites bearing gold. An engine of fifteen or twenty-horse power drains the mine
by a lift-pump, and raises the ore.

It is difficult to find a mass of the quartz in which gold can be seen by the unassisted eye ;
but on placing a lump of the pyrites in nitric acid for a short time, so as to partly dissolve it,
gold becomes visible in numerous small points. A panful of the partly decomposed vein, near
the surface, gives a good show of gold on being washed. When the quartz arrives at the mill,
it is piled in heaps and roasted, and then passed through the stamps, of which there are sixteen ;
the fine powder passes with a current of water, first over blankets spread out in the shallow
troughs, and then through a long and slowly-revolving cylinder, partitioned off by cleats, and
holding mercury, known as Cram’s cylinder. It is then received into a Blaisdell's pan—a large
iron pan holding mercury and cannon balls—and kept in motion. Nearly three-quarters of all
the gold is caught upon the blankets. These are ordinary blue blankets, and when they are
taken out to be washed they present a most beautiful appearance, being covered with a layer of
glittering particles.of gold. They are wrung out once every hour, into a large tub of water.
The gold thus obtained is mixed with a portion of pyrites, and is subjected to amalgamation.
This operation is performed weekly, and enormous ingots of gold are taken to the express offices
every Saturday night.

The Helvetia and Lafayette Mining Company is organized with a capital stock of $600,000,
in shares of $100 each. "They have fine buildings and machinery, and a bank of eighteen
stamps of great weight, and it is said that eighteen tons of the quartz can be crushed by nine
of the stamps in twenty-four hours. The vein occurs in connexion with trappean rock, and
trends nearly east and west, dipping a little east of north. A ridge of brecciated quartz rock
Crops out in the low ground west of the workings, and has a trend nearly north and south. It
is, perhaps, at the side of the intrusive rock.

The specimens of auriferous quartz from this mine are exceedingly beautiful. The quartz is
compact and milk-white, and contains implanted filaments and thin sheets of gold completely
isolated from pyrites. Some ofthe specimens are exceedingly rich, and their remarkable solidity
and freedom from the stains produced by the decomposition of pyrites, make them particularly
suitable for cutting into ornamental stones. Pyrites is found in the quartz, and sometimes in
cellular nodules, or lines cavities which contain gold. The wall of the vein, in some places,
has a peculiar bluish-green color, and a layer of breccia is found. This consists of fragments of
a silicious deposition, very compact, breaking with a conchoidal fracture, and yet without the
brilliant vitreous lustre of quartz. It is deposited in layers of grayish-blue and white, and is
hydrous, It is probably allied to cacholong, a variety of the species opal. Itis said that $12,000
worth of gold was obtained from one hundred and thirty tons of the crushed quartz and earth of
the upper or decomposed parts of the vein. This was crushed by nine stamps in eight days.
Seven hundred dollars’ worth was once obtained from three and a half tons, being at the rate of _
$200 per ton. It is evident, from the appearance of the quartz, that the compact, undecomposed
Portions will not give such a great yield.

The Gold Hill mine is probably the most extensive at Grass Valley, and is under the super-
intendence of Mr. Mellville Atwood. The entrance to the mine is at the base of the hill
bordering the creek, and it is connected with the works for crushing and washing by a tram-
Toad about nine hundred feet in length. The tunnel leading to the drifts upon the veins is

270 ۱ GEOLOGY.

about five hundred feet in length. The rock is compact greenstone, and is traversed in
several directions by veins. The main lode dips at an angle of twenty-two degrees, and is
stoped from the level of the tunnel, or adit, to the surface. There are several other veins
which are not worked out to such an extent. One of the veins is only three or four inches
wide, and is cpen along the centre, the quartz being deposited on each wall, so that the crystals
on the oppo: ng surfaces interlock. It is a good example of a true fissure vein. The color
of the quart , which is peculiarly stained by oxide of iron, and the character of the crystals,
conforms exactly with specimens which I obtained in San Francisco, which were said to be
from Grass Valley. These consisted chiefly of broad plates partly imbedded in quartz, or
supported between the ends of the crystals. This, I was assured, is the character of the
specimens obtained from the vein. The quartz veins of this locality do not appear to be very
highly charged with pyrites, and yet they are stained by iron as if from its decomposition.
Pyrites appears to exist in the wall-rock in considerable quantities.

The machinery for crushing and washing the quartz is on a great scale, and has been erected
at great expense. The crushers and stamps are driven by a powerful condensing engine from
the establishment of James Watt & Co. There are three large tubular boilers set very beauti-
fully, without brick-work. The crushing apparatus consists of two sets of Cornish crushers,
twenty-six inches in diameter, and twelve stamps. It is the intention to increase the number
of stamps to twenty-four.

The mine of the Rocky Bar Mining Company is upon Massachusctts Hill. Several shafts
have been sunk upon the vein, from twenty to fifty feet deep, until water was reached. It is
not now worked, but preparations are making to sink an engine shaft to intersect the vein at
a depth of 110 feet. The vein is said to dip towards the northeast at an angle of thirty-five or
forty degrees. The quartz which has been removed is reported to have yielded about sixty
dollars to the ton. t

There are many other interesting mines and crushing mills at Grass Valley, but they could
not be visited during the short stay made in the place.

GRASS VALLEY TO COLOMA.

Grass Valley to Auburn.—We travelled over a rolling, uneven country, and crossed me
small creeks. The rocks are covered by drift and soil, which sustains a growth of oaks, pines;
and the peculiar shrub called mancinita. A few miles before reaching Auburn we found the
outeropping edges of argillaceous and talcose slates, and they form the bed-rock at Auburn.
The surface of this foundation of rock is very irregular and rough, but is made smooth in places
by a thin layer of auriferous drift, from six inches to two or three feet in thickness. These
elevated flats are of considerable extent, and have been completely dug over by miners. The
drift is much rounded, and is not very coarse, but large masses of the subjacent slates are found
with it. A considerable part of the gold is in coarse lumps, and masses weighing from ten to
eighty ounces are common.

. Auburn to Coloma.—The prevailing formations from* Auburn to the crossing of the North
Fork of the American are clay slates and talcose slates, standing nearly on edge, and travel
by intruded dykes of basaltic or trappean rock. The rock, at the crossing, is a fine- grained
syenite, cleaving like trap-rock. It appears to be a dyke of but slight thickness, and the velt
are seen again a short distance beyond. We passed upon a fine-grained syenitic granite aber

SUTTER'S MILL—CLAY SLATES—TALCOSE SLATES. 271

one mile before reaching Smith's house on the river. Trappean intrusions adjoin the granite
abruptly, and quartz is abundant along the junction.

Coloma.—The hills along the South Fork of the American River, at Coloma, are not precipi-
tous, but are rounded, and the valley has considerable width, so that many wide bars, or side
flats, are formed. These consist of river-drift, sand, and gravel, and it is all auriferous.
Much gold is obtained from the projecting points or head s about which the river turns in
its winding course. These points are formed of granite, and the gold is washed out of the
overlying drift by the miners, as at Nevada and elsewhere. The ground-sluices are made use
of here also. : i

This is the point at which the gold was first discovered in the race of Sutter’s saw-mill. This
mill is still standing, although going rapidly to decay and ruin. It is said that it has recently
been purchased with the intention of manufacturing walking-canes from its timbers.

It is claimed that the piece of gold first found is still in this place, and in the possession of
Peter Weimar. It is a very pretty, flattened lump, about an inch long, and five-eighths broad.
The claim that this is the first fragment found is, however, disputed.

The river is crossed at this place by a long wooden bridge. The current is rapid and very
muddy. An immense quantity of fine earth must be constantly transported by this and the
many other rivers of the mining region to the delta of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and
even further down into the bay. All the streams from the mining region are made thick with
the tailings of the thousand sluices that drain into them.

COLOMA TO GEORGETOWN.

At Irish Creek, about three miles from Sonora, the slate is again seen in distinct outcrops,
trending from N. 32? to N. 40° W., with an easterly dip of 70° or 80°. It is a compact, fine-
grained clay slate, like roofing slate, and is traversed by many thin and parallel intrusions of
trappean rock. These are dykes, with a width of from six to ten and twenty feet. The cañon
or ravine of the creek is narrow, and conforms in its direction to the trend of the slates. The
outcrops of the dykes are chiefly confined to the bed of the creek. These dykes, together with
the slates, are traversed by seams and veins of quartz containing pyrites, and many large cubes
of this mineral are found in the slates. No well defined vein of auriferous pyrites was observed,
but one has been worked in the vicinity, as shown by heaps of refuse and a shed, under which
one of Blaisdell’s ** coffee-mill”’ crushers was placed. The beautiful octahedral and dendritic
crystals which I purchased in San Francisco were obtained at some point along this creek.

At Kelsey's, several miles beyond, the slates are not so much like roofing slates, but are
more talcose or magnesian, and include veins or beds of auriferous quartz, trending parallel
with the stratification. A vein which has been prospected near the town is three feet wide,
and consists of intercalations of quartz in lenticular masses, with thin films of the slates. The
vein thus appears to be subdivided by thin layers of the slate.

Between Kelsey's and Georgetown there are many interesting mining localities; among them,
Spanish flats, where the alluvial drift is very rich.

Georgetown.—This beautifully situated mining town is about N.N.E. of Coloma, and 2,500
feet above the sea, It is regularly laid out, with wide streets, and already has its’church and
theatre. The underl ying rocks are argillaceous and talcose slates of a light color, and in very
regular, thin, and flat lamine. j :

The mining operations are chiefly at Mameluke Hill, in or under a deep deposit of drift or

272 GEOLOGY.

alluvium. The slates crop out along a ravine, but the top of the hill is formed of deposits,
which reach a thickness of 200 feet or more. They rest upon a basin-like depression in the bed-
rock, and the gold-bearing layer is at the bottom. In order to reach this, tunnels are cut in
from the side of the hill, at such a distance below the summit that the lowest part of the basin
will be intersected. To do this, it is necessary to cut through the outer or projecting rim of slate
rock, and some of the tunnels are thus of great length and very costly.

SECTION OF THE HILL-SIDE AT GEOEGETOWN.

p N = 0 Qmm = CO
d un ENS S AK “i ns RM f) | 1 > AY,

The relative positions of the drift and the slates, and the method of mining, will be under-
stood from the section. A ‘‘ prospecting ”” shaft is first sunk from the surface of the bed-rock,
and the earth tested. If the result is favorable, a tunnel is commenced on a level with the
bottom of the shaft, or at a lower point, and carried in so as to intersect the shaft, or so as to
strike the ** pay-dirt’’ at a favorable point. The auriferous earth is then removed in all direc-
tions, and sent out of the mine by cars on a tram-road, and emptied down a slope or guide of
boards into a large bin made to receive it. From this it is taken and washed in a board-sluice.
About two feet of the earth and gravel next the slates, and even the upper edges of the slates
to a depth of a foot or more, are removed, and the roof is supported by timbers precisely as in &
coal mine. The whole operation of mining is very similar to that of beds of coal, where they
occur above the level of streams, and are nearly horizontal, as at Pittsburg and other places.

The claim of-the Mameluke Tunnel Company is opened by a cutting of at least 300 feet in
length through the slates before the gold-bearing earth is reached. This forms a layer not
over two feet in thickness, and rests immediately upon the upturned edges of the slates. It is
overlaid by a firm and homogeneous deposit of clay, which is said to be eighty feet thick and
without coarse materials, It has a dull ash-color, and contains a large quantity of pumice or
volcanic ashes. Some of the masses, which have been removed in the course of mining, are
traversed by cylindrical holes, looking like the casts of vegetation or roots that have since
decay ed and disappeared. - In one of the specimens a perfect cast of a leaf was found. Itis
probable that this is a lacustrine deposit—the sediment from an ancient pond or lake that
occupied a valley in the slates. What changes have been produced in the configuration of the
surface of the region since that lake wag drained! —

It is said that the following succession of beds was foi in sinking the shaft of the Bay State
Tunnel Company :

Feet.

Surface MARIA I (soil and gravel) Me:

Gray argillaceous beds, with volcanic ejections, pumice, &e., (** cement). .. ...... 40
: q gravel, (** pay gravel’’) ; ; 8
Gray with pumice, (e (cement). . oo» 60
روش بو‎ meet sting E seen 一

RICHNESS OF THE PLACER DEPOSITS—ANCIENT RIVER-BEDS. 273

1t would appear from this section that there was an alternation of quiet and running water.
The deposition of clay and pumice was interrupted by a swift current bringing gravel and gold,
and this current was probably similar to that which first spread the gold upon the uneven
surface of the slates. It is probable also that the current was sudden and powerful, for if it had
flowed for a long time, the clay would have been swept away before the gravel was laid down.
The gravel must have accompanied the flood, and thus acted as a barrier to the denudation of
the layer of clay below.

Through the kindness and attention of P. C. Currier, esq., I was permitted to examine the
mine of the Washington Tunnel Company, one of the best on the hill, and was allowed to test
the accuracy of some of the statements regarding the remarkable richness of the deposits of the
hill by mining for a few minutes, on my own account, in one of the drifts. "The surface of the
bed-rock was worn perfectly smooth by abrasion, and a fine, white, talcose clay and some gravel
rested upon it. With a candle in one hand and knife in the other, I picked away this earth,
and threw out, one after another, beautiful water-worn lumps of gold. In ten minutes I had
collected nearly an ounce.

The slate of this vicinity appears to contain many auriferous veins. Quartz in cellular veins,
apparently auriferous, is visible at the entrance to the Washington Tunnel, and a short distance
below the Mameluke Tunnel, a quartz vein, only a foot in width, is very rich in gold. This
quartz was so much decomposed and stained by oxide of iron that it resembled the adjoining
slate, and its presence was not suspected. "The claim was worked as a placer deposit, but with
little success. On taking out one panfull from the vein and washing it, gold became immedi-
ately visible, and nearly half an ounce was obtained. "This was sharp, angular gold, mixed
with the cellular quartz. The slate on each side is much stained with oxide of iron, and it is
probable that undecomposed pyrites will be found lower down. The course of this little vein is
nearly north and south, and its extreme richness, together with its friable and cellular condition,
render it probable that it will be exceedingly profitable.!

There are many other rich placer deposits in the vicinity of Georgetown. At Cement Hill
there are extensive excavations. The Swiftsure Tunnel is cut for one hundred and twenty feet
in slate, and is four hundred feet in length. The auriferous earth is found under a thick deposit
of fine clay, in which whole trees are imbedded. These are in a state of decomposition or
change, and are dark-brown, looking nearly as black as coal. The hand may be thrust into
them in some places, they are so soft, but in others the toughness of the fibre of the wood
remains. They contain beautiful masses of iron pyrites, in crystalline crusts of great brilliancy ;
but these rapidly decompose on exposure. The clay differs from that at Mameluke Hill; it is
nearly pure clay, with a reddish-brown or drab color, and was evidently deposited in quiet
water. It is said to be thirty feet thick.

The Nevada Tunnel, an adjoining mine, is one of the most interesting in that region. It is
cut through about four hundred and fifty feet of slates, and then reaches the ‘‘ lead." The gold
obtained in this mine differs from that found in the placers before described, being in small and
regular scales, and indicating by its form that it was deposited in the bed of a river. Thisindi-
cation is verified by the character of the surface of the bed-rock ; it is rounded and worn exactly
as in the bed of a river, and, here and there, large, loose boulders are found. It is evidently the
bed of an ancient river. Above this auriferous deposit we find a compact, brown clay like that

* It is reported that after we left this vein, the owners of the claim commenced sinking a shaft on the vein, and ob-
tained over $60,000 before they had reached a depth of fifty feet.

274 GEOLOGY.

at the Swiftsure Tunnel, and also containing forest trees. Above this compact clay, however,
there is a ** cement,” or mixture of clay, with volcanic ejections similar to that at Mameluke
Hill. A thin trap-dyke was observed traversing the slates.

This claim has yielded great profits to the proprietors. At one place, where the lead was
first struck, one hundred ounces of gold were taken out from a space eighteen feet long and six
wide. The gold lies close to the rock, and in places has penetrated between the layers of slate
to the depth of a foot or more. It is enveloped in a thin layer of very firm blue clay, derived,
to all appearance, from the abrasion of the slate.

The gold could be seen thickly implanted in this clay and on the surfaces of the layers of slate
from six to eight inches or more below the general surface of the bed-rock. One pan of the
clay was taken from one of the richest spots and washed out before me. It yielded about six
ounces, ór one hundred dollars’ worth of beautiful gold, all of it in large scales. The sluice had
been in operation half a day, washing out the ‘‘pay-dirt’’ collected by two men in the drifts.
This operation issery interesting. The gold having accumulated among heavy pebbles and black-
sand along the course of the sluice, is to be collected together or ‘‘cleaned up.” It is accomplished
by taking out the bars and turning on a greater quantity of water, thus increasing the force
and velocity of the current. The supply of auriferous earth being stopped, the current of water
soon becomes perfectly clear and the bottom of the sluice is distinctly visible. Stones and gravel
are swept along, but a line of glittering scales of gold appears behind them, and as the gravel
passes down before the stream the gold follows, increasing in quantity for every foot of its pro-
gress, until at last it forms a bar of golden grains which may be measured by the pint or pound
rather than by ounces. ;

Mr. Currier. presented me with a sample of iron pyrites which is obtained from the washings
near Georgetown. It occurs in minute and very brilliant cubes all of the same size, and is
abundant. I also obtained a small mass looking like lead and galena, which, on examination,
proves to be a telluret of silver. * A crystal of IImenite was also presented to me.

An outcrop of serpentinoid rock is found about half a mile east of Georgetown, and it appears
to form a dyke traversing the slates. Further east, a granitic rock appears, but is only visible
in loose blocks. The soil at this point contains a large amount of peroxide of iron, and it is
probably auriferous. There are indications of quartz veins between the granite and the serpen-
tinoid rock. — '

VOLCANOVILLE.

Volcanoville is on the Middle Fork of the American River opposite Forest Hill, and is chiefly
remarkable for the occurrence of a very interesting vein of auriferous quartz. "This vein outcrops
in Quartz Cañon, which leads into Otter Creek. The vein, in one place, is three feet thick, and
trends N. 30? W., with an easterly dip of 45?. Itis bounded on one side by a trappean rock with
serpentine beyond, and on the other by slate. This slate is on the east side, and is traversed
by many small veins or strings of quartz, which are also auriferous. The richest part of the
vein is said to be covered up by earth, but gold is visible in many places in the white quartz,
and on the wall where the quartz has been broken out. This wall has the usual appearance of
smooth furrows called slickensides, but not produced by the attrition of the walls. A large
amount of the quartz is free from gold, and would be difficult to crush. The gold is apparently
very unevenly distributed, and forms isolated nests and bunches. At » Taylor's Claim," higher

! See Chapter XX., under Hessite.

GRANITE—METAMORPHOSED SLATES. 275

up the ravine, several open cuttings have been made across the vein, and many fine “leads””
are exposed. Gold can be detected in the fragments thrown out, but the best indications are
the presence of considerable cellular quartz and oxide ofiron. These veins are not now worked,
and no machinery has been erected. The veins have furnished some very rich specimens.
Bowlders and fragments of iron ore are abundant along the bed of the creek,

MORMON ISLAND.

Mormon Island is on the bank of the American River at the point where the foot-hills of the
Sierra Nevada become merged into the plains of Sacramento. Mining is conducted in the bed
of the stream and on the bars; but at a higher level, sixty feet above the river, the operations
extend over a much greater area, being in the older drift and alluvium. The place is also inter-
esting, geologically, for the extensive outcrop of a very superior granite which forms bluffs on
each bank of the stream. This granite is highly structural; the minerals are arranged in
parallel planes or layers, appearing as lines on the surface. "They determine a direction of easy
rift, or cleavage, which is favorable to the operation of quarrying and splitting the stone for
building purposes. The color of the rock is a pleasing gray, not unlike that of Quincy syenite.
Its trend is N. 26° E. Lenticular masses, or agglomerations of hornblende and mica, of a dark
color, are found in parts of the rock, and are frequently drawn out into sheets or lines. They
are like the masses seen in the granite of the summit of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon Pass.

CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY AND THE AURIFEROUS DRIFT.

The principal geological features of the central portion of the Gold Region which was
traversed, as detailed in the foregoing notes, may be briefly enumerated.

Talcose. and clay slates are the prevailing rocks, and in general present a low degree of
metamorphism. The color is generally light, and apparently little changed from the original
tint ofthe sediment, More highly metamorphosed portions appear to occur in narrow belts,
and to be near the lines of intrusive rocks.

The strata are, in general, upon edge, or inclined at high angles, and trend in a north-
westerly direction with great uniformity, and without abrupt and local plications or disturbances
ofthe beds. The plications into which they have been thrown are upon a magnificent scale
and very regular. "This formation of slates occupies the wide space between the intrusive rocks
Which form the axis of. the Sierra Nevada and a belt of granitic rocks at the base of the slope,
and at the margin of the great California plains. The slates are also traversed by erupted rocks
at many intermediate points, and are thus cut up into a series of parallel bands or belts of
metamorphic and intruded rocks, the former predominating. These intrusions are chiefly trap
OT greenstone, and a serpentinoid rock which resembles that at Fort Point, and may be con-
Sidered by some as a metamorphosed sediment ; but the evidences favor the conclusion that it is
of igneous origin. Granite is found at Nevada and Grass Valley, and again near Coloma, and
Appears to be succeeded on both sides by slates ; but the relations of these outcrops—whether
they form one belt, or two or more—I am unable to decide without a map on which the places
are laid down with accuracy.

The lower or most western outcrop, to which reference has been made, appears to form a well-
defined belt of considerable len gth and breadth. It was crossed on the road between Sacramento
and Auburn, and further south at Mormon Island, in the range of the trend. This belt is one

276 | GEOLOGY.

of the principal erupted axes of the region, and is the first rock met with on leaving the plains
of the Sacramento for the interior.

The observations upon the outcrops of the granitic and metamorphic rocks along the line of
the expedition, in the Valley of the San Joaquin and the Tulares, indicate that there is a suc-
cession of granitic axes, trending nearly northwest and southeast, and thus making a consider-
able angle with the main axis of the Sierra Nevada. These successive belts of metamorphic
strata and erupted granites, and the like, pass below the more modern deposits of the great
California Valley, as will be seen upon the General Map. It will probably be found that the
metamorphic axes, or the lines of uplift and flexure, throughout the Sierra Nevada, trend
obliquely to the general axis of the chain. This view is sustained by the topography of the
Coast Mountains and other chains.

The next important formatiön is the white, crystalline limestone, which was found developed
to such an extent at Columbia, Sonora, Cave City, and the vicinity. It attains a great width ;
is nearly vertical in its planes of structure, and appears to form a long belt trending north-
westerly through Tuolumne and Calaveras counties. It probably extends much further, both
north and south. Itis believed to be parallel to, and conformable with, the great slate formation.
At Abbey's Ferry, on the Stanislaus, it was found in connexion with mica-slate and granite.
This rock is doubtless metamorphic, but as no fossils or relics of any have been found in it, it is
impossible to decide upon the period to which it should be referred. It is possibly carboniferous _
limestone, this formation having been recognized in the northern part of the State, while we
are yet without evidences of the presence of Silurian formations west of the great central chain of
mountains.

The rock is very different from the limestone of the Tejon Pass and the Cafiada de las Uvas,
being more regularly stratified, and having many blue veins and layers, all trending with the
beds. The Tejon limestones are compact, granular marbles, perfectly white and containing
scales of graphite; the metamorphic action having been more intense than upon the limestone
of the gold region. :

If a line be drawn through the several known outerops of this limestone, it will be found to
extend in a northwesterly direction, and if prolonged, would intersect the slate region in the
region of Coloma, Auburn, or Yankee Jim's. Limestone is not known to occur there; and it 18
probable that nearly opposite to Mokelumne Hill the outcrop is deflected to the east. It is at
this point, or abreast of it, that the trend of the Sierra Nevada becomes greatly changed ; its
direction becoming nearly north and south rather than northwest and southeast. All the
formations—slates, limestone, and the granite—appear to be shifted further east, and to pass
behind the formations south of the American or Cosumnes Rivers. The possibility that the
great limestone belt may pertain to the lower or western granitic axis between Sacramento and
Auburn is worthy of consideration, but in the present state of our knowledge of the region, and
the absence of accurate maps, it is impossible to arrive at any satisfactory conclusion respecting
the relative positions of the formations north and south of a line drawn east and west through
Carson’s Pass, at the point where the change in the direction of the Sierra Nevada commences.

These formations—the erupted and metamorphic rocks—form the floor or bed-rock upon which

.a very different series of formations is deposited. These formations consist of the auriferous
drift in its various forms, and of a more uniform and extended series of nearly horizontal e
of clays, sand, and gravel. These last are of marine origin, and probably Miocene or Pligosne
Tertiary. In many parts of the region they are entirely swept away, and scarcely a vestige

CLASSIFICATION OF "'HE DEPOSITS OF AURIFEROUS DRIFT. 277

remains; but at other points they are found in extensive plateaux or gently sloping table-
lands bordering the rivers, which have cut their way downwards through the strata and exposed
them to view. The table-like hills or mountains seen from Knight’s Ferry, on the Stanislaus,
and between the Mammoth Grove and the Great Cave, are examples of these deposits. In many
places they are overlaid by a stratum of basaltic lava, like that at Fort Miller, on the San
Joaquin. It is most probable that the principal deposits of this great series of nearly horizontal
strata, flanking the Sierra Nevada in the Gold Region, are of the same age as those from which
fossils were obtained further south along the Tulare valley. Marine Tertiary fossils are
abundant at Chico Creek, and at other places along the eastern side of the Sacramento Valley.
Indications of the Cretaceous rocks are also found.

The overflows of basaltic lava constitute an important feature in the geology of the Gold
Region. They are found to overlie the auriferous drift as well as the older strata, and produce
the remarkable flat-topped hills called Table Mountains.

There are many varieties or modifications of the auriferous drift, or, we may say, of the
deposits of gold. We find:

First. A coarse, boulder-like drift, the result of great abrasion and powerful currents in a
great body of water. i

Second. A river-drift, or coarse alluvium, ancient and modern.

Third, Alluvial deposits on flats and over broad surfaces, not confined to river channels.

: Fourth. Lacustrine deposits—at the bottoms of former ponds or lakes.

The deposits of the first class are very irregular, and differ in their lithological characters
and manner of deposition at different localities. The observations were sufficient to show that,
in many cases at least, the accumulations are extremely local, and that they were not trans-
ported from a great distance. The great deposit of quartz boulders, and sand of the same
material, at Michigan City, is regarded as an evidence of the comparatively local character of the
force, or current, which deposited them ; for ifit had been extensive, or had flowed in a similar
manner for a great distance, other rocks and gravel would have been mingled with the drift.
At Forest Hill, also, the gold is found in crystals, but little water-worn or rounded; and quartz
crystals are taken out with the crystalline planes scarcely scratched, but with their angles
broken off, so that the effect of a current is shown. Deposits of this class contain coarse lumps
and grains of gold, and are found on the high table-lands, or ‘‘divides,’’ between the rivers,
often at an elevation of over 2,500 feet above them.

The river-drift containing gold, appears under a variety of forms. It may be either coarse or
fine ; but is found of all ages, from the accumulations now forming in the beds of the streams,
and in bars, to the deposits of rivers which formerly flowed over the surface 2,500 feet higher
than now. The courses of such ancient streams are discovered by the miners, and followed by
them in their underground explorations. All the peculiarities which the beds of rivers present—
the water worn surfaces, pot-holes, and fine scale gold—are found in them. :

The rich deposits of gold found in the thin layer of gravel and clay, spread over broad areas
or “flats,” are mentioned as forming a third class. "They differ from the linear deposits formed
by Streams, and yet they appear.to be the result of a continuous current passing over the sur-
face. In many instances such deposits give evidence of having existed as a marsh or swamp,
or as a low district, inundated at times by rivers, and serving as a repository for a portion ot
their suspended alluvium. In many of these deposits, however, the masses of gold are quite

avy, and the grains as coarse as those in the first class of deposits. It is probable that the

278 = GEOLOGY.

gold was deposited with a thick layer of drift, which was afterwards swept away, leaving the
gold behind. It would appear that the drift had been re-assorted, or perhaps removed, by cur-
rents of less strength and extent than those which transported the gold.

The deposits of the fourth class, called Zacustrine, are found in extensive basin-shaped
depressions in the surface of the metamorphie rocks. "These depressions have evidently been
filled with deep and quiet water, from which thick strata of clay, fine sand, and volcanic ashes
have been deposited upon the auriferous layer at the bottom. The deposits at Georgetown and
Cement Hill are examples of this class. They are more nearly allied to the alluvial deposits of
the * flats" than to either of the other forms under which the auriferous drift appears. The
section of the strata at Mameluke Hill shows that the deposition of clay and volcanic ashes
from the lake was interrupted, and that a layer of coarse, auriferous gravel was spread out
over the surface of clay, after which the former conditions were restored. This alternation, or
a series of auriferous and non-auriferous materials, stratigraphically deposited, forms a well-
marked difference between the lacustrine deposits and those of the flats. ۱

Great changes have been produced in all of these deposits by denudation and erosion during
and since the elevation of the region to its present level. The old rivers changed their beds,
lakes were drained, and new streams cut their way through great deposits of coarse drift,
through lacustrine deposits, and across the ancient river-courses. But the action of the denuding
streams has not been confined to the superficial deposits, either auriferous or Tertiary ; they
have eroded great valleys and cafions in the underlying rocks, both of granite, limestone, and
slate ; all are cut through and traversed by long valleys nearly transverse to the trend of the
rocks. These valleys of erosion are on a most magnificent scale, and may be regarded as deep
ravines in a formerly unbroken plateau or slope. Their general form is shown in the section.

RIVER‏ ---—---- ح

RIVER CANON— VALLEY OF EROSION IN SLATE.

On the forks of the American River these eroded valleys are from 1,500 to 3,000 feet deep,
and the traveller who desires to cross from one bank to the opposite side must wind in a zig-Zag
line down one side and in a similar manner up the other; traversing a distance, in most cases,
of nearly three miles, while in a direct line it may be but little more than one mile from one
bank to the other. All this erosion has taken place since the original deposition of the gold;
and it is probable that the gold of the streams is derived from the original deposits ین‎
drift rather than from the action of the rivers upon the veins, although a very considerable
quantity of gold must have been liberated from the veins by their action. The great currents,
or floods, which produced the drift were much more general and wide-spread in their action,
and appear to have abraded the whole surface rather than mere lines or channels.

All the observations upon the auriferous deposits sustain the conclusion arrived at by
Roderick I. Murchison, after his explorations in the Urals—that the formation of gold " gue
gically speaking, very modern ; that it is one of the most recently formed metals ; the r "
being probably impregnated with it after the Miocene period, and but ‘‘a short time before the

Sir

AGE OF THE GOLD. ۱ 279

epoch when the powerful and general denudations took place which destroyed the large extinct
mammalia.!’’ Although, as before observed, the relations of the auriferous drift to the older or
Tertiary strata at the base of the Sierra Nevada are not yet clearly shown, it is believed that
these marine strata containing Miocene fossils are free from gold. Gold is found under hori-
zontal strata of great thickness and extent, but it will probably be found that these deposits
are comparatively modern; more recent than the period of the Mammoth and Mastodon.

It is also the opinion of the distinguished geologist, whose name has been mentioned, that it
is probable that the impregnation of the Urals with gold took place when the highest peaks of
the chain were thrown up and its present watershed established, and when the syenitic granites
and other comparatively recent igneous rocks were erupted along its eastern slopes.? It is
probable that the impregnation of the rocks of the Sierra Nevada was similarly produced. We
find great lines of erupted syenitic granite and dykes of greenstone and serpentine traversing
the auriferous districts. It seems most probable that the appearance of the gold was nearly
coincident with that mighty convulsion which resulted in the elevation of a great part of the
Coast Mountains and the drainage of the whole western base of the Sierra Nevada, until that
time covered by the waves of a Post-Tertiary sea.

At such a time denudation by floods would be most active; and, until the newly risen conti-
nent had attained its permanent elevation, the streams and rivers must have been constantly
changing their channels; lakes must have been formed, and then drained, and a series of effects
produced corresponding to those we now witness over the whole region.

There is no doubt of the Post-Tertiary, or at least the Post-Pliocene, age of the Coast Moun-
tains. We find them composed in great part of Tertiary strata, thrown into great wave-like
flexures, with here and there a granitic axis of limited extent, but with serpentine abundant.
In the auriferous regions a similar serpentine abounds, and has in all cases the aspect of an
intrusive rock. The movements which attended the uplift and plication of the Coast Mountains
must have affected the whole western slope of the Sierra Nevada. Iam thus led to the conclu-
sion that the impregnation of the rocks with gold and the formation of the Coast Mountains
were nearly synchronous.

1 Siluria. .
2 Russia in Europe and the Urals.

DHABKIER:X IX,
BUILDING MATERIALS. —COAL.—LIGNITE.—BITUMEN.

SAN FRANCISCO.—QUARRIES AT MONTEREY AND PUNTA DE LOS REYES—MORMON. ISLAND.—SANDSTONE OF SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS

` VICINITY.—A DAPTATION AS A BUILDING MATERIAL.—SANDSTONE OF BENICIA, FORT ROSS, AND MOKELUMNE HILL.—LIMESTONE.—LIME-
STONE IN THE VICINITY OF SAN FRANCISCO.—AT THE TEJON AND CANADA DE LAS UVAS.—CaJON AND SAN BERNARDINO.—BITUMEN.—
TAR SPRINGS OF LOS ANGELES.—BITUMINOUS SHALES.— USES OF THE BITUMEN.—COAL—ABSENCE OF COAL OF CARBONIFEROUS AGE.—
BELLINGHAM BAY COAL.—EXTENT OF THE BEDS AND QUALITY OF THE COAL.—SECTION.—SYNCHRONISM OF THE STRATA WITH THOSE OF
SAN FRANCISCO.—COAL FROM VANCOUVER'S ISLAND.—USE OF THE COAL ON THE STEAMER ACTIVE —COWLITZ COAL.—LIGNITE NEAR SAN
FRANCISCO. i

BUILDING MATERIALS.

The following are brief notes upon the principal building-stones and their distribution along
theline of the survey. In the event of the construction of a railroad over any part of the line
which has been explored, abundance of suitable stone will be found in the mountains or in the
ridges at the sides of the passes, but none can be obtained on the plains; for those parts of the .
line it must be transported from the nearest and most available points. These will be enumerated
in their order of succession from the mouth of the Gila to San Francisco.

GRANITE.

Junction of the Gila and the Colorado Rivers— Fort Yuma.— This is an important point upon
the line, and requires a supply of Stone to form abutments for a bridge. It seems almost as if
this want had been foreseen, for an isolated granite knob rises up from the surface of the Desert
at this place, and is the only locality of building-stone within a circuit of many miles. - It is at
the point where it is most needed, and, indeed, the abutments for a bridge seem already formed.
The rock contains a large amount of feldspar, and is porphyritic; it is firm and durable, and
suitable for masonry. Stone can be taken from this point to any part of the Colorado Desert ;
and it can also be obtained at Pilot Knob, seven miles further west, on the line. ۱

Bernardino or San Gorgono Pass.—The mountains on both sides of this Pass are granitic,
and will afford abundance of stone suitable for bridges or abutments. The rocks do not crop
out along the roadway or open part of the Pass, and must be obtained from either side. Lon
rocks of San Gorgoño Mountain are laminated and slaty, being chiefly gneiss intercalated with
white limestone. These rocks are chiefly on the slope towards the Desert, further west, OT at
the summit and beyond; they are more compact and solid, and there is little doubt that good
granite can be obtained from some of the numerous cations which extend towards the centre of
the mountain. It is abundant on the north side of the Pass on the flanks of San Bernardino
Mountain. |

This would be one of the principal points for obtaining granite to build bridges or abutments,
if such are found necessary in the northern parts of the Desert. Granite and gneiss could also

SA TERR E Fis

phus eier Sh t

|
:
E

BUILDING STONES—GRANITE. 281

be procured from the outlying ridges of the Peninsula Mountains on the west side of the
Desert.

Warner’s Pass.—On the summit of Warner's Pass and in the vicinity of the thermal springs,
Agua Caliente, there is an abundance of a beautiful granite in large, solid, gray blocks, many feet
in diameter. It extends along the crest of the mountains for many miles, and ean be obtained
near Santa Isabel. Beyond this, to San Diego, granite and gneiss are abundant, and are suc-
ceeded by sandstone near the coast.

Cajon Pass.—Granite, gneiss, and white limestone are abundant and accessible in this Pass.
Beyond, along the slope of the Great Basin, or along the southern base of the Bernardino
Mountains, stone can be obtained from the lower ridges.

Tejon Pass and the Cañada de las Uvas.—Good granite is abundant near Lake Elizabeth on
the route to the Cañada de las Uvas, but in the Pass, there are no convenient outcrops until the
summit is reached. Sandstone can, however, be obtained on either side. From the summit to
the Tulare Plains, granite, gneiss, and limestone are found on each side. The granitic rocks
are found throughout the extent of the Tejon Pass, and again between the valley or Tejon and the
slope of the Tulare Valley. Limestone and quartz rock are abundant on the east side near the
surface of the Dasin, and limestone is also found in the ridges of the west side of the Pass near
the entrance to Tejon Ravine.

From the Tejon to Moore's Creek, or its vicinity, des is not found on the line of the Expe-
dition, and the Tertiary sandstones are too friable and unconsolidated to be relied on for building
purposes. From Moore's Creek to Fort Miller, the lower ridges of the mountains are chiefly
metamorphic and magnesian slates, not well adapted to purposes of construction.

Fort Miller, on the San Joaquin river.—Excellent granite is found, in unlimited quantities,
near this post. It occurs not only in place, but in large, loose blocks along the stream. Atone
of the outcrops, a large quantity of stone has been removed in constructing a road, and its quality
is thus wellexhibited. The locality is so near the plain of the San Joaquin, that in the event
of the construction of a railroad over it the granite could be conveniently obtained for abutments
and bridges.

Beyond Fort Miller to Livermore's Pass, the foot-hills or ridges of the Sierra must be resorted
to for granite. It occurs on the Fresno River, near to the plain, but beyond that place the rocks of
the lower ridges are believed to be principally slates, and not suited to purposes of construction.
Granite has not yet been found in the Coast Mountains between the lower end of the San Joa-
quin River and San Francisco.

San Francisco.—The city of San Francisco has been chiefly supplied ih granite from the
Chinese quarries at Macao and Hong Kong. In 1854, however, it was found that an unlimited

Supply, of a good quality, could be obtained from Point Pinos, Monterey, and from Point Reyes,

on the coast, about twenty miles north of the city. Quarries were opened at both places, and
it was found that large blocks could be most readily obtained at Monterey. A large quantity of
stone (** dimension stone’’) was quarried there and shipped to San Francisco, to be used in the
construction of the fortifications at Fort Point.

The granite does not contain much hornblende, but small crystals of. black mica are dissemi-
nated through it, and give it a pleasing gray color. It is also porphyritic, containing large
isolated crystals of feldspar. In texture it is well adapted to building purposes, being fine-
grained, and breaking into blocks of any desired size. The outer portions of the rock were -
slightly rusty, or made yellow by weathering, but on breaking out blocks below the surface,
> 36 F

282 GEOLOGY.

the whole appearance was changed, and clean, sound stone could be procured. This rock has
also been used in small cubical blocks for paving the streets. "The rock at Point Reyes is darker
and more hard than that of Monterey, and contains a little hornblende. l

The quarries are directly upon the seashore, and the stone can be placed on shipboard without
previous land transportation. Their proximity to San Francisco, and the facility with which
the stone can be obtained, renders them exceedingly valuable as a source of building material.

Mormon Island.— American River.—A very beautiful and compact syenitic granite is found at
Mormon Island. It has been used in the construction of buildings in Sacramento. It is, how-
ever, twenty miles from water transportation, and, consequently, cannot be obtained with
economy.

SANDSTONE. _

The San Francisco sandstone is used to a considerable extent for buildings in the city, and
for foundations where ‘‘ dimension stone"' are not required. The rock, however, is not obtained
from the outcrops in the city ; it is more favorably exposed for quarrying at other points around
the head-lands of the bay and on the islands. Quarries have been opened at Yerba Buena
Island, opposite the city, at Angel Island, and at the State’s Prison. The latter quarry is
most extensively worked, and it supplies a large amount of dimension stone.

The color of this sandstone varies at the different localities, and its weathered portions are
much rusted and stained by the formation of peroxide of iron. In general, the color of the
undecomposed, or not oxidized, portions is a dark, bluish-green, very much like that of some of
the trappean rocks. Wherever it is quarried into it is found that the outer or exposed portions
have become rusted and softened to a great depth, and that it is traversed by innumerable
fissures like cleavage planes, which prevent large and solid rectangular blocks from being
obtained. It has been found necessary to excavate below this thick and partly decomposed cov-
ering, and even to quarry below tide-water, in order to procure stone of good size and uniform
in texture and color. The quality of the stone below tide is superior to that above, in every
respect, and it appears to be the only portion of the stone in its normal or unchanged condition.
From the fact that this sandstone has undergone a change of color, and is partly decomposed to
a great depth, even to the level of tide water in most places, we are led to expect that the
unchanged portions, when exposed to similar conditions of air and moisture, will undergo &
corresponding change oftexture. It is, however, impossible to say how long the stone may
remain in a wall without undergoing a perceptible change. It would doubtless be more durable
in a dry wall than in one kept moist by the absorption of moisture from adjoining banks of
earth.

This sandstone contains a large per centage of oxide of iron, which probably exists as à prot-
oxide in the undecomposed portions, and as the sesquioxide in those portions which have been
exposed to the weather; the change thus producing the brown or drab color seen at all of the
outerops. The rock, in some places, also contains very minute grains of sulphuret of iron, but
this is not a common ingredient. Carbonate of lime exists in all of the specimens that I have
examined, and the rock is, in fact, a calcareous sandstone. : "

It is a very firm and dense rock, and is very strong and tough. At first sight it is -—
mistaken for trap, especially at the weathered outcrops, where the stratification is not distinctly
e

The stone obtained from the State's Prison quarry is lighter in its color than that from Yerba

BT T

E
>
)

BUILDING STONES—SANDS a 283 .

Buena, When first taken out it is readily cut into any desired form, but hardens on exposure
to the air or after drying, but does not become too hard to work. It is necessarily much more
expensive to work a quarry downwards, below tide, as in this case, than to split out blocks from
a bluff above the general surface of the ground. The sandstone also lies in beds, which are of
variable thickness, rendering it difficult to procure dimension stone of uniform size.

Benicia.—A large quantity of sandstone of a rusted or buff color is obtained at Benicia, and
sent down to San Francisco. It appears to be identical in its lithological characters and age
with the partly decomposed stone of San Francisco Day. Its principal recommendation, as a
building material, is its cheapness and the facility with which it can be cut into blocks. It is
very soft, as compared with the unchanged rock, and in many cases the angles of the stone can
be crumbled off by the fingers. Its quality is far inferior to that of the undecomposed blue
stone, it being much more friable and liable to wear away by the action of the weather.

Fort Ross.—A light-colored gray sandstone is obtained on the coast at Fort Ross and other
places. That from Fort Ross contains considerable carbonate of lime, and is friable. It is,
however, more compact, and has a finer grain than the Benicia stone, and also has the appear-
ance of a more durable material. It is easily worked, and takes a good polish or a very smooth
surface on being rubbed down with fine sand.

A peculiar building material is obtained from Mokelumne Hill, and is used to a slight extent
in San Francisco. It is a very light and porous rock of sedimentary origin, consisting chiefly .
of fine volcanic sand and light ashes, with the fragments and dust of pumice-stone. The
color varies from a delicate pink to light-yellow, and is very pleasing. The stone, although
light and soft, and easily cut by a knife or saw, appears to be tough and strong. It is very
easily worked or cut into any shape, but cannot be regarded as a valuable building material,
except, perhaps, for temporary structures not requiring great strength.

LIMESTONE.

The State of California is well supplied with this material, and several localities are within
convenient distances of San Francisco. It is found north of the city, on the shores of Tomales
Bay, Marin county, and on the south, near Santa Cruz. It is also found near the quicksilver
mine at New Almaden, and on the western side of the San Juan Mountain, near the road to
Monterey. According to Rev. Walter Colton, it is found within ten miles of Monterey, and
was used by him in the construction of the court-house.

At all these places the rock is the white, crystalline variety,! found associated with granite,
and commonly known as * primitive" or metamorphic limestone. A considerable quantity of
lime is made, both at Tomales and Santa Cruz, and both places being upon the coast it is
readily transported to the city. |

Tejon Pass, — A bundance of pure white limestone was found in the Tejon Pass, on both sides
of the summit. That on the western side is at the entrance to the side ravine, leading to
Taheechaypah prairie. On the east, it comes to the surface in a series of extended ridges, near
the slope of the Great Basin. In some parts of these ridges the rock is snow-white and beau-
tifully even in its grain, and it might appropriately be called statuary marble.

Canada de las-Uvas.—The position and peculiarities of the numerous ridges of limestone in
this place have already been noticed in Chapter XV. The outcrops are also indicated in the

VA dark, reddish-brown limestone also occurs on the shores of Tomales Bay, but the locality was not visited. A specimen
of the rock in the collection is traversed with white veins, and is compact and fine-grained. It might be called marble.

284 GEOLOGY.

small geological map of the Pass and in the sections. This rock will make excellent lime, but
there is not a great abundance of fuel in the vicinity.

Cajon Pass.—A large number of boulders and fragments of white limestone were seen in the
higher parts of the Cajon Pass, and a considerable body of the rock undoubtedly exists, in situ,
in some of the adjacent ridges.

San Bernardino.— This settlement is well supplied with limestone from the mountains south-
east of the city. I had no opportunity to visit the locality. "

San Bernardino or San Gorgoso Pass.—Limestone is abundant in almost every point that
extends outwards from San Gorgoño Mountain towards the west. It is also found in the lower
ridges along the Desert, near the Pass.

BITUMEN.

There are numerous places in the Coast Mountains, south of San Francisco, where bitumen
exudes from the ground and spreads in great quantities over the surface. These places are
known as Tar Springs, and are most numerous in the vicinity of Los Angeles. It is also
common to meet with large quantities of this materialfloating on the Pacific, west of Los
Angeles, and northward towards Point Conception. I have seen it, when passing this point,
floating about in large black sheets and masses. These masses are probably the product of .
submarine springs; or they may be floated down by small streams from the interior. I am
informed by Lieutenant W. P. Trowbridge, of the United States Engineer Corps, that the
channel between Santa Barbara and the Islands is sometimes covered with a film of mineral
oil, giving the beautiful prismatic hues that are produced when oil is poured on water.

Springs at Los Angeles."—Some of the springs that I examined near Los Angeles were mere
overflows of bitumen, or asphalt, from a small aperture, around which it had spread out so a8
to cover a circular space about thirty feet in diameter. This had hardened by exposure, and
was covered and mingled with dust and sand, which quickly adheres to the clean and fluid
surfaces. The outer portions were as hard as a pavement, and the mass was highest towards
the centre, where it was soft and fluid like melted pitch. It was thus evident that all the hard
portions had risen in a fluid state, and by the heat of the sun had been gradually spread out
over the surface. Being constantly exposed to dust, which had become thoroughly incorporated
with the asphalt, it had acquired the consistency and hardness of an artificial mixture. This
spring is about seven miles from Los Angeles, on the banks of a small brook, and is underlaid
by bituminous shales. Bituminous shales are also exposed at the shores of San Pedro, near
the base of the vertical bluffs of the sedimentary formations of the slope. Rounded masses of
silicious strata, charged with bitumen, are.cast up by the waves, and are probably broken from
submarine outcrops, -"

1844).
h the earth

bubbles. According to the warmth of the air, the gas contained in the bubbles expands and bursts, producing a rà
detonation. The inhabitants collect the solidified asphaltu d use it for covering the roofs of their houses, formed of reeds "
of pieces of wood (shingles). Vessels carry this bitumen to different parts of the coast. This material, nevertheless, — :
inconvenience of melting in the sun, running down from the roofs, and penetrating through the roofing. The ho i es
are covered with it require particular care, but small expense, since the springs are worked by any one, according to the
wants.”

= E IIA TA

BITUMEN—COAL. 285

There are several localities of bitumen in the vicinity of Los Angeles which I did not have the
opportunity of examining. At one place it is said to form a large pond or lake about one
quarter of a mile in diameter, This is the source from which the principal supply is obtained.
The residents of Los Angeles make use of large quantities of the material for covering their
buildings and for pavements. It enables them to make roofs, that are almost level, completely
water-tight ; and it is spread out upon them in the following manner: The asphalt is taken
early in the morning, when it is cold and brittle, and broken into small fragments. It is then
spread upon the roof, and the heat of the sun melts it down into one homogeneous crust. When
the inclination of the roofs is great, or the asphalt is freshly applied, it runs off at the eaves,
and is a source of annoyance to pedestrians. After a considerable quantity has thus run down,
it is thrown up again, until, at last it becomes so much hardened that it is no longer made
liquid by the sun. These roofs, when well made, are perfectly water-tight, and are very durable.
The value of this material for making pavements, roofs, cements, and in the manufacture of gas
and oil, cannot be lightly estimated, and it should be regarded as one of the valuable mineral
productions of the State.

COAL.

The geological formation of the country examined by the Survey is not such as to indicate the
existence of mineral coal of the age of the Carboniferous, The only indications of coal that
were found were the bitumen springs, and the bituminous shales, of the Tertiary formations,
near Los Angeles. It is possible that beds of compact coal exist deeper in the strata below the
bituminous beds, but this can only be determined by deep and expensive boring. The proba-
bility is, that if coal does exist, it is at such a great depth that it cannot be mined to advantage,
or so cheaply as fuel can be furnished from other sources.

Bellingham Bay Coal — Washington Territory.—Although this locality is far beyond the limits
of the region explored by the survey, it is not deemed inappropriate to give the following facts, '
which were obtained in San Francisco.

Coal from this locality was in use in the hr in 1854 for burning in grates and for cooking,
and gave general satisfaction. It is a compact and perfectly black bituminous coal, breaking
with a brilliant conchoidal surface, and, in large masses, much resembles the carboniferous coal
mined at Pittsburg, Pa. It burns freely, and leaves a fine, white ash, which appears to be
very abundant, but may not be present in such quantity in the better or interior parts of the
vein. Through the kindness of Lieutenant W. P. Trowbridge, of the United States engineers,
who has examined the region, I am able to present the following extracts from a manuscript
report made by him in August, 1853.

“The coal strata exposed to view on Bellingham Bay are situated in latitude 48? 43', and
oceur in a series of stratified rocks, which dip at an angle of 70° from the horizon, and strike
E. 15? N. The thickness of the series being about two thousand feet." * si ie i
““ The coal beds enter the bank at right angles to the shore-line, and rise with a gradual slope
to the height of about three hundred and fifty feet, at the distance of half a mile from the
shore, where they are broken in a direction oblique to that of the beds, and fall off in abrupt
ledges to their original level.” * * * * “From the sections it will be seen that

_ there are ten workable seams of coal, interstratified with six or seven heavy beds of sandstone,

and numerous strata of bituminous shale, slate, clay, iron-stone, and thin beds of sandstone.
In two thousand feet the coal occupies about one hundred feet ; the thick beds of sandstone about

86 GEOLOGY.

seven hundred, and other rocks about twelve hundred." * > * * The workable
veins are, respectively, 20’, 6’, 6/, 12’, 25’, 5’, 5’, 18’, and 13’ feet in thickness—making an
aggregate of 116 feet. ۱

““ Bellingham Bay here offers a fine harbor and good anchorage for vessels of all kinds; and
by constructing a wharf a few hundred feet in length coals can be brought down from the pits
in cars, and dropped into the vessels, without the employment of any other power than their
own weight."

The following descriptive section is also given by Lieut. Trowbridge. The measurements are
on a horizontal line ; the real thickness of each stratum is therefore 二 of that stated.

; SECTION OF COAL-BEARING STRATA, BELLINGHAM BAY.

Feet. Fee
1. Sandstone, (thickly bedded) about i 150 | 21. Coal (impure) 4
2. Coal 20 | 22. Clay and shale 40
3. Shale 1 " 2 6 | 23. Sandstone eo 35
ی‎ JAxgillacedus sandstone; + aac ur adrede 6 | 24. Coal «aes 18
5. Clay shale 10 | 25. Bituminous shale (probably will work into coal).. 14
6. Slate filled with impressions of leaves FT 20. CORE ci E NS 25
7. Clay and bituminous shale 12 سای‎ AA ee 24
8. Slate filled with impressions of leaves. .......... 4 | 28. Sandstone, (thickly bedded,) about --- 100
9. Clay UAE X. ما ی‎ T 30
10. Bituminous shale > 25 | 30. Stratified argillaceous sandstone----------------- 50
11. Bituminous shale and clay ۱ 178 | 31. Coal FOCUSES Ont 5
12. Sandstone, (thickly bedded,) about 200 | 32. Clay and shales daa 200
13. Coal : ETE DNE FIEL a e in ee 5
14. Shales y 35 | 34. Shales and slates.......---..------------------ 150
15. Coal 02 SÉ. 00 TIRO ee eee 18
16. Sandstone and shale BIN Oa ein 20
17. Coal 6 | 37. Sandstone, (thickly bedded,) about.------------- 200
18. Clay, iron-stone, clay, and shale 145 | 38. Coal NND Ie 13
19. Coal (impure) 4 JUS Uy Seen qum a E ie 15
20. Clay ; ` 40 | 40. Sandstone (thickly bedded.)

It is possible that some of the many distinct bedsof coal described by Lieutenant Trowbridge
are not perfectly pure; they may contain seams of bituminous shale, or earthy matter, which,
in the rough and unworked outcrops, might be considered as good coal. The number and
thickness of the beds, as given in the section, show that the formation is very remarkable and
extensive, and excites a desire to know more of the geology of the region.! An extended and
careful survey is exceedingly desirable, not only for the geological results that may be expected,
but as preliminary to the exploration of the beds. -

The imprints of leaves and twigs occur in the shales of the locality ; but the specimens
procured by Lieutenant Trowbridge were too obscure and imperfect to permit their specific
characters to be made out. : D i

I learn from one of the officers that accompanied the United States Coast-Survey steamer
Active on a recent trip to Puget Sound, (1854,) that the Bellingham Bay coal was used on the
steamer a part of the voyage. The furnaces of this steamer are provided with ‘drop and
return flues ;”” but notwithstanding this construction the flame from the furnaces would gene
rally pour out of the top of the smoke-stack for ten or twenty feet. This is sufficient evidence
of the existence of a very large amount of volatile matter in the coal; and it shows that the
fire was not properly managed, or that the furnaces were not adapted to the peculiarities of the

2 bs is not impossible that these beds of coal are so much plicated that the same series is included more than once iste
section as above given. I am assured, however, that the measurements were made with great care.

COAL OF PUGET SOUND AND VANCOUVERS ISLAND. 287

coal. This coal produced a large amount of a very fluid slag, and it was necessary to rake the
fires every twenty minutes. It was regarded as inferior to the coal from Vancouver’s Island,
which was also used on the steamer.

The wharf at the mine on Bellingham Bay was not completed when the steamer left, and it
was necessary to take the coal off to the vessel by lighters. Even these small vessels were
obliged to take advantage of the tidesin order to reach and leave the dock. The excavation
into the hill, on the course of the coal-bed, did not extend over twenty feet; a large part of the
coalat that time must, therefore, have been of very inferior quality, in consequence of long
exposure to the weather and the infiltration of impurities.

A block of sandstone obtained from the vicinity of the coal-bearing strata by Lieutenant
Trowbridge very much resembles, in its lithological characters, the sandstone of San Francisco
and its vicinity. The color is nearly the same; and it likewise contains small disseminated
scales, or films, of a dark color, very much like those seen in the sandstone from Yerba Buena
and Benicia. It also contains two thin fragments of coal, the remains of coal-plants, and one
round fragment looking like a rounded or water-worn mass. Two well-preserved shells of the
genus Pecten are contained in the same block. The synchronism of the stratum from which
this block was taken with the standstone of San Francisco is more than probable.

COAL AT VANCOUVER’S ISLAND.

Coal is obtained on Vancouver's Island from the port of Nanaimo, about eight or twelve
hours run by steamer from Bellingham Bay. This coalis considered to be of better quality
than that from Bellingham Bay ; but it is also objected to on account of the great quantity of
slag and cinder that is formed during its combustion.

I have seen this coal in use on the Active, and noticed that the amount of slag was unusually
great. It ran down in streams from the grate-bars into the ash-pit, and could be drawn out
into threads like glass.

It is probable that the coals from Puget Sound will require a peculiar form of furnace for
their successful combustion. The abundance of the supply, and the convenient proximity of
San Francisco and other ports on the Pacific, render the localities worthy of careful attention
and extensive exploration.!

Cowlitz coal.—A coal of medium quality is obtained from the banks of the Cowlitz River,
and it has been mined to some extent by parties from San Francisco. Professor Dana observes
of this coal, that it contains considerable pyrites, and burns with much smoke—caking com-
pletely. The following is an analysis of specimens he obtained, by Professor Benjamin Silli-
man, jr.: 2

Carbon 45.56

PE an 52.08

Ash 2.36
LIGNITE.

A very peculiar and interesting brown coal, or lignite, i is found near the shores of San Fran-
cisco Bay, at Santa Clara, several miles south of San Francisco. It is taken out there in large
masses resembling coal, but retaining the grain and structure of wood. The color is a brilliant

۲ When the coal from these localities was used on board z the rias the trip was made from the Columbia River to

x Francisco in fifty-nine hours, and a second trip in sixty-tw
Report on the Geology of the United States Exploring die. by J. D. Dana, p. 658.

288 GEOLOGY.

black, and the masses break with a conchoidal fracture. After long exposure to the air,
especially in a dry situation, the mass contracts so much that it becomes traversed by numerous
fissures, and may then be broken up by the hand. The powder and streak are dark-brown,
in which respect the mass corresponds with lignites or brown coal; but when ignited it burns
freely with black smoke and a bituminous odor. It contains a large per centage of bituminous
or volatile matter; so much, that it burns with a brilliant flame. It does not leave a large
quantity of ash, and these good qualities render it valuble as a fuel.

-Not having visited the locality, I cannot describe its geological position and association, nor
present any observations upon the extent and thickness of the beds, and their prospective
importance and value as a source of fuel. I was, however, informed by the gentlemen who
called my attention to the coal that it existed in beds about three feet thick, and that it was
overlaid by strata of sandstone.

CHAPTER XX.
METALS, ORES, AND MINERALS.

ome OF mox .—MAGNETITE AT THE AÑADA DE LAS prat AND WILLIAMSON'S PA89.—LIMONITE. EM A, AND ITS ORES.—COPPER PY-

OF ANTIMONY Tyaecnrp.
MAL

TION OF THE VEIN AND ITS ASSOCIATION. — METALLURGY OF THE ORES OF ANTIMONY.—FURNACES. — LOCATION OF THE VEIN. —LEAD—
SULPHURET OF MERCURY, CINNABAR.—DESCRIPTION OF THE ORE AND MINE.—FURNACES FOR THE EXTRACTION OF THE METAL.—GOLD,—
INDICATIONS OF GOLD ALONG THE ROUTE.—QUARTZ VEINS.—PLACERS NEAR THE SAN FRANCISQUITO RANCHO.—AURIFEROUS VEIN AT
ÅRMAGOSA. COLORADO RIVER.— GOLD AT PORT ORFORD.— CRYSTALLINE GOLD.—PLATINUM AND IRIDOSMINE.—AÀ NALYSIS.—SILYER.—
TELLURET OF SILVER, HESSITE.— NATIVE ARSENIC.—CHROMIC IRON.—EMERALD NICKEL.—lLMENITE.— TOURMALINE.— ANDALUSITE OR
MACLE.— FELDSPAR. وس رسیم‎ OR DIALLAGE „—ÜHRYSOTILE .一 GYPSUM. — CARBONATE OF LIME.—CARBONATE OF MAGNESIA. —BALT.—
CARBONATE OF SODA.

The objects of the expedition did not permit of extended observations, at any great distance,
on either side of the route explored. ‘Mining localities, and veins of auriferous quartz in the
southern mines, were passed by without my having any opportunity to examine them ; and it is
doubtless the fact, that many other interesting mineral localities were passed, from time to time,
in the hurried transits made from one field of operation to another. The following notices of
interesting mineral veins, and localities of minerals, are of those that were incidentally met
with in the course of the survey, or were afterwards visited or brought to my notice, and they
are not to be regarded as an exposition of the mineral resources of California.

IRON ORE—MAGNETITE.

Cañada de las Uvas. —Magnetic iron ore occurs in a vein about three feet thick, in a low ridge
of white crystalline limestone, in the valley of the Pass known as the Canada de las Uvas.
This ridge is near the highest point of the Pass, and the debris of the ore rolls down close to
the trail. The vein, or bed of ore, is nearly vertical; its trend is nearly east and west, and
the outcrop is traceable for about thirty feet. The ore is much mixed with the carbonate of lime,
but no other minerals of association were observed. It is compact, but not crystalline. When
broken it shows a brilliant fracture, with a granular surface, and does not cleave, with broad,
flat faces, as in the massive magnetic ores of New York and New Jersey.

Williamson’s Pass. —Large rolled masses of magnetite were picked up in the bed of one of the
streams entering the valley of Williamson’s Pass, on the east side. The ore is very pure and
crystalline, and is associated with hornblende, cinnamon-colored garnets, and chlorite. It
probably exists in a considerable vein between the Pass and the Cajon ; and judging from the
beauty of the minerals of: association displayed even in the rolled fragments, the vein may be
expected to yield specimens of interest to the mineralogist.

Volcanoville, on the Middle Fork of the American River. — Large masses of magnetic iron-ore
occur in a slight ravine, among boulders of quartz and other rocks, near the great vein of aurif-
erous quartz at Volcanoville. "Their source is not known, but it is probably in the vicinity. It
must form a thick bed, judging from the size and number of the transported masses.

F

290 GEOLOGY,

LIMONITE.

Burns’ Creek, Mariposa County.—An outcrop of hydrous sesquioxide of iron occurs near the
banks of this creek, on the right of the road going south. Its position, and its geological asso-
ciation, has already been noted in Chapter II.

It is associated with a quartz vein, and both together form a bed about twenty-five feet thick,
lying conformably with talcose and chloritic slates. "The layers of slate adjoining the vein are
more or less charged with the oxide, and some thin layers are distinctly intercalated. The ore
lies upon the surface in great solid blocks, from two to four feet in diameter. It is compact, of
a dark-brown color, and breaks with a smooth, conchoidal fracture. Its powder is a dark rusty-
brown, and its hardness about five on the scale of Mohs. It is peculiarly compact and hard, and
is unlike any specimen of similar chemical composition that I have seen.

Its position and peculiarities indicate that it has resulted from the decomposition of sulphuret
of iron, (iron pyrites,) and that it now forms the ** gossan"' of a vein of sulphuret below the
surface. This is probably the case, but the mass does not present that cavernous, porous, and
friable condition in which gossan is usually found. An examination by the blowpipe did not
show the presence of any sulphur. It is easily reduced, and when carbonized fuses to a mag-
netic globule. At some future day this ore may be valuable for making iron, but at present the
scarcity of fuel and the cost of labor will not admit ofits being profitably worked. It contains
about fifty-six per cent, of iron.

COPPER PYRITES.

Great Basin.—Yellow copper pyrites was met with on the slope of the Great Basin, about
seven and a half miles east of Johnson's River, in the form of loose fragments, covered with a
slight green coating of the carbonate. I followed up the bed of a dry brook, along which the
fragments had been transported, until I found the parent vein. This is in a micaceous granite,
forming one of a series of small isolated hills or ridges at the upper part of the slope, and not
more than three miles from the foot of the main range.

The trend of the vein was ascertained to be nearly north 75° east, (magnetic,) and its
inclination to the north; but it is nearly vertical. The outcrop consists of quartzose rocks,
containing masses and coatings of carbonate of copper and the fine oxide of iron, which some-
times results from the decomposition of pyrites. "These indications of a vein were spread over à
width of twenty to thirty feet, and were traced for one quarter of a mile. This is a valuable
vein, and I have no doubt will show some splendid ore on being opened. It is possible that it
is auriferous; but I had no means of determining this question. Its position is such as to
discourage any attempt to work it at present. There is ‘no water within three or four miles of
the place. Timber can be had from the mountains, four or five miles distant. The ore could
be transported to Los Angeles, by mules or wagons, a distance of nearly eighty miles, by the
way of Williamson's Pass.

VITREOUS oorr.

Williamson's Pass. —A sulphuret of copper occurs about seven miles below the summit-level
of Williamson's Pass, on the north of the valley and on the slope of a granite hill, about ninety

COPPER IN SONORA—ANTIMONY. 291

feet above the bed of the creek. The vein had been “ prospected’’ by some adventurers, and
two or three hundred weight of ore had been taken out and piled up.

It is found in strings and narrow veins, distributed in a hard quartz gangue about fifteen
feet thick. The thickest seam of ore, however, does not exceed one or two inches, but where
several are closely combined, a thickness of eight inches of workable ore was seen. The best
part of the ore that has been excavated will probably yield thirty per cent. of copper. The ore
is not the common yellow sulphuret, but resembles vitreous copper and the variegated pyrites.

It has not been analyzed, and it is uncertain to which of the two species it may be referred,
but it is probably the former. Its color is lead-gray, and it is not harder than calcite. It
contains a large per-centage of iron, and being very much mixed with the hard, quartzose
gaugue, and so far from water-power and transportation, the vein does not at present offer much
inducement for exploration. Timber can be obtained from the adjoining caiions; at a distance
of three or four miles. There is no permanent water-power in the vicinity, and the vein is

about 60 miles from Los Angeles.

NATIVE COPPER AND RED OXIDE OF COPPER.

While at Fort Yuma, at the junction of the Gila with the Colorado, several large masses of
splendid copper ore, brought from the state of Sonora, Mexico, were exhibited to me by the
officers of the post, and Mr. Yeager at the ferry. The vein is reported to be near Altar, and a
large pile of the ore is said to be deposited near the emigrant trail, This is probably the case,
as many specimens are brought in by travellers who cross the Colorado at the ferry below the
fort. This ore is principally the red oxide of copper. It is massive, and sub-crystalline, and
contains small masses and points of native copper. Its surfaces are covered with green coats
and incrustations of the carbonate, It is a very valuable ore, and the specimens that I saw
would yield about 90 per cent of pure copper. |

The mine has been worked more or less by Mexicans, and the ore taken to Guaymas. The
precise locality of the vein could not be ascertained, but probably it is readily accessible from
the Gila, and in the event of the construction of a railroad in that vicinity the value of the.
mine will be much increased, and it will, doubtless, furnish a considerable amount of freight.!

SULPHURET OF ANTIMONY.

A large vein of sulphuret of antimony exists in the granitic rocks at the head of the Tulare
Valley, near the pass of San Amédio. It is about eighty miles distant from Los Angeles,” by
way of the nearest trail, and is most readily reached from the Tejon or Cafiada de las Uvas.

The Indians and others had reported the ore to be of silver, speaking of the locality as affording
"mucho plata," and it was also reported that a party of men had been to the locality and reduced
some of it in forges and furnaces of rude construction. While in Depot Camp at the Tejon, I
made a special visit to the locality, in order to ascertain the true nature of the ore and its
composition.

The general direction of the trail to the mine is from the entrance to the Cañada de las Uvas,
westward, along the base of the sandstone hills to the third principal cañada, through which a

` Since the above was written, a company has been organized in San Francisco and a mine opened in Sonora, which, from

the descriptions, I judge to be upon the same vein from which the specimens procured at the fort were taken. A quantity of
the ore has been sent to San Francisco,

292 GEOLOGY.

stream flows, fringed with cotton-woods. This cañada is ascended for about eight miles, ina
direction a few degrees west of south. On approaching the junction between the sandstone and
granite, the trail turns to the west and passes over to another cañon, and ascends this to the
high granite ridges, where trees and water are abundant. The ruins of a log-house, and the
forge that has been used to melt the ore, are romantically situated at the lower end of a long
but rugged cafiada, between high and steep granite ridges. This cañon and the sides of the
mountain are heavily timbered with large fir trees.

The ore for the supply of the furnace appears to have been obtained from the numerous
transported fragments, mingled with the granite debris brought down the cafion by floods. The
ascent of this cation was commenced in search of the vein, and I was guided by the numerous
boulders of solid ore, which were, in some cases, over one foot in diameter. They were traced
up to the foot of a steep and rocky channel, descending the almost precipitous side of the
mountain, and it was evident that their source was at a very considerable elevation above. The
blocks of ore were occasionally met with along this channel, one of them was twenty-seven
inches long and from sixteen to eighteen wide. The vein was at length found, at an elevation
of about 6,000 feet above the sea.

This vein is bounded on both sides by granite, and it appears to extend in a nearly north -

and south direction. The outcrop is so situated on the face of the cliff that it was hardly pos-
sible to give it a full examination ; and the greater part of it is so much covered from view by
a thick crust of decomposed ore, that the thickness of the vein could not be conveniently
measured. I judged, however, that the solid or workable part was from four to ten or twelve
feet thick. There certainly is an unusual quantity of ore at this locality, and at some future
day it will be worked with profit. i

The ore is principally compact and massive, and free from gangue. Several specimens of
quartz, traversed by thin blades and prismatic masses of the sulphuret, were picked up; and
quartz is one of the principal minerals of association. The decomposed parts of the vein are
colored yellow by the abundance of antimony ochre ; and crystals of sulphate of lime are distri-
buted through it. When this vein is worked, there will doubtless be many interesting speci-
mens of antimonial minerals obtained. There were no indications of the presence of silver, nor
is it probable that this metal is combined with the ore in any quantity. The report that it is
rich in silver probably originated in the fancy and hopes of those who first found the locality.

It is merely the sulphuret of antimony, and is commonly known as Grey Antimony or Anti-
mony-Glance, and is the same as the Lupus-Metallorum of the alchemists. It is the most widely
diffused ore of this metal, and nearly all the antimony and its compounds, used in the arts and
in medicine, are derived from it. The mineral, as generally found, has a bluish-gray color and
a metallic lustre, and occurs not only in masses, but in long slender prisms, ‘often divergent,
and in lamellar masses, which cleave easily, and expose brilliant surfaces. It is very brittle, and
is easily reduced to a fine powder. Chemical analysis shows the presence of from seventy uo
to seventy-four parts of metal in one hundred, the remainder being sulphur. ©

The principal localities of the ore are Felsovanya, Schemnitz and Kremnitz, in Hungary
where itis found in prismatic masses, often several inches in length, traversing the erystals =
barytes and other minerals with which it is associated, It is also obtained at Wolfsthal, in
Hungary, where it forms a compact vein. In England, it occurs both fibrous and laminated,
in Dumfrieshire, and massive in the southwestern part of the county of Cornwall. It is found
in France, in South America, and sparingly in the United States, at Carmel, Maine, and,

METALLURGY OF ANTIMONY. 293

according to Dr. Jackson, in New Hampshire, at Cornish and Lyme, where it is associated with
quartz. But the most important locality known is in the island of Borneo, from which the
principal supply of the world is obtained. ‘The mines are upon the west side of the island, and
within twenty miles of the sea. They are reported to be the property of Sir James Brooke, and
to be very valuable.

Treatment of the ores of antimony for the separation of the metal.—The separation of antimony
from the gangue and sulphur requires two distinct operations. The first has for its object the
simple separation of the'sulphuret, from the minerals with which it is associated, and the second
consists in the reduction of the sulphuret, or the separation of the sulphur and the antimony.
The first is effected by simple fusion, or a process called liquation, and gives, as a result, the
erude antimony of commerce ; the second yields the regulus of antimony. ，

. The operation of liquation may be performed in a rude manner by placing the ore in an
earthen pot or crucible, the bottom of which is pierced with small holes. This is set upon or
into the top of another pot which is imbedded in the earth. The joint being luted with clay,
and the upper pot tightly covered, it is heated for several hours, the fuel being piled around
the pot containing the ore. The sulphuret of antimony fuses and drains out of the gangue,
| passing through the holes in the bottom of the pot into the vessel below, where, on cooling, a
mass of crude antimony is found. In operating in the large way, it is necessary to observe a
greater economy of fuel and to avoid the constant interruption of the operation. One of the
most simple of the furnaces contrived for this purpose is described by Dumas as in use in
the department of Vendée, France, and consists of a reverberatory furnace of a circular form,

~ if =

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REVERBERATORY FURNACE FOR EXTRACTING CRUDE ANTIMONY. ۱

shown in section in the figure. The floor of the surface is concave, and formed of a mixture of
clay and charcoal. Upon this the mineral is laid, and, when heated, the fused sulphuret runs
out through a pipe into a receptacle on the outside of the furnace.

Another and a more complicated furnace, the invention of M. Panserat, of Alais, has been in
use at the mines of Malbosc, in Ardéche. It may be described as a dome.like furnace, in which
vertical cylinders (E E in the figure) are so placed that the flames can play around them. These
are pierced with a hole at the bottom, and stand upon a hollow support containing earthen pots,
D, D, as receptacles. These are placed upon a small car, or frame with wheels, so as to be
readily withdrawn or replaced. The mineral is placed in the cylinders in masses of the bigness
of an egg; the fire is made upon the grates, A, B, C, and the flames after encircling the
cylinders escape into the chimney by openings not shown in the section. The sulphuret being
fused drips down into the pots below, which are heated by the fire on each side, and so retain
the mineral in its melted state until it is withdrawn and poured off.

Metallic antimony is obtained by first roasting the sulphuret so as to expel as much of the
sulphur as possible and form an oxide. This is afterwards reduced by heating in crucibles with

* This description of the furnace is condensed from Dumas Traité de Chimie Appliquée aux Arts, t. iv, pp. 168, 169.

`

294 GEOLOGY.

charcoal and carbonate of soda ; the complete decomposition of the sulphuret being effected by
the carbonate of soda.

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FURNACE FOR THE EXTRACTION OF CRUDE ANTIMONY.

It was for a long time attempted to prepare metallic antimony by heating the sulphuret with
iron in the presence of charcoal and alkalies ; but this proceeding is now generally abandoned ;
for the iron combines with the antimony and a poor quality of metal results.

The regulus of antimony of commerce is not pure, but contains sulphur, iron, lead, and
arsenic ; the latter being very difficult to separate. The most simple process for the extraction
of the arsenic, according to Pelouze and Fremy,! is to transform the arsenic and the antimony
into arseniate of soda and into antimoniate of soda, neutral and anhydrous. The first of these
salts can be removed by means of hot water, in which it is soluble, while the antimoniate of
soda is insoluble.

Access to the Vein, and Facilities for Mining.—The position of the vein at so great an elevation
renders it somewhat difficult of access ; but it may be approached from the side of the moun-
tain, opposite to that ascended by me, with much greater facility. It would, however, be possible,
and perhaps the least expensive course, to construct a slide of timbers, on which the ore could
be sent down to the foot of the mountain, It could then be loaded on mules, and taken to San
Pedro, the nearest seaport. There is an ample supply of pine timber on the top of the moun-
tain above the vein. It is sufficient for all the purposes of mining, or for reduction of the ore,
which might be conducted at the mine with little expense beyond the cost of labor. There is
no water power in the immediate vicinity of the vein except during the winter or rainy season.
As, however, the mine will be completely dry, pumps will not be required ; and the mine can
be worked in such a manner that it will not be necessary to lift the ore by machinery.

The spring in the lower part of the caiion near the old forge appears to be unfailing. There
is also a small spring on the side of the mountain near the vein, and it can probably be enlarged,

so that sufficient water can be obtained there for miners. There are many little open valleys

۱ Pelouze et Fremy, Chimie, ii, p. 526. -

GALENA—CINNABAR, NEW ALMADEN, 295

and slopes in the vicinity, which are suitable for cultivation, and there is abundance of grass
for animals. Game of all kinds is very abundant; bears, deer, antelope, and mountain sheep
were seen in the vicinity.

This vein of antimony ore is of great importance and well worthy of exploration.

LEAD.

The ores of lead do not appear to be abundant in California, and there are no mines of it or
veins of sufficient extent to warrant working yet known. Galena occurs as an associate of
native gold in quartz at the Marble Springs mine in Tuolumne county. It is mingled with
blende, and in some parts of the vein forms large bunches. This association is peculiar, and
forms very pleasing specimens for the cabinet. The mine is in the limestone region, and it ig
probable that other and more important localities will be found along that belt.

Argentiferous galena occurs at the Alisal Rancho in Monterey county, associated with pyrites
and arsenical minerals. It is said to occur in considerable quantity, and to have been worked
more or less for several years, but with little success.

SULPHURET OF MERCURY—CINNABAR.

This ore of mercury is found at New Almaden, on the eastern slope of the mountains
extending between the valley of San José and the Pacific. The works for the extraction of the
metal are about twelve miles south of the village of San José, in one of the narrow valleys of
the mountains, and the entrance to the mine is about one mile distant, and several hundred feet
higher. The sulphuret (cinnabar) is the only ore which occurs at this locality, and is found
intercalated with layers of flint and shales in a series of lenticular beds and interlaminations.
These rocks appear to be metamorphosed strata, and they crop out on the surface at several
places below the mine. They consist of regular beds of argillaceous shales and layers of flint
and jaspery rock, which simulate those occurring at San Francisco near the Mission, at Fort
Point, and Lime Point. Dykes of serpentine, apparently intrusive, are found in or near the
mine, and trappean rocks are also found in the vicinity.

The similarity of the strata and of the serpentine to those found near San Francisco leads me
to consider them of the same age; and the probability that the flinty and jaspery rocks are
the metamorphosed blue sandstone of San Francisco Bay has already been adverted to.

It is generally supposed that this ore is in a great ‘‘bunch,’’ or ** pocket," and without any
definite extension in one direction more than another. This, however, is not the case, as it has
an evident prolongation; and although probably not a vein of fissure, much assistance in working
the mine may be derived from a knowledge of its true character and the direction in which it
extends, į

The excavations of the mine are exceedingly irregular. They extend and ramify in all
directions ; and the different parts are reached by means of slopes, with rude stairs cut in the
rock, or by notched poles. The ore has been excavated wherever it was most abundant; and in
some places pillars of it are left standing to support the roof. One mass of solid cinnabar was
eight feet thick. The mine is free from water, and no decomposition of the ore has taken place.
Sulphurets of iron and copper and arsenical pyrites are found in some parts of the veins, but

296 GEOLOGY.

they are in small quantity. Veins of crystallized carbonate of lime traverse the cinnabar, and
fault the small beds and strings of the ore. Bitumen is occasionally found associated with the

‘calcite.

The mines "T works are under the able superintendence of Captain H. W. Halleck, formerly
of the United States engineer corps, and he has introduced many improvements. A large
tunnel has been cut in on the side of the mountain, and a wide track laid, on which cars run in
to the centre of the works and are loaded with the massive ore. On reaching the surface it is
assorted, weighed, and packed upon mules, and thus transported down the mountain to the
works for the extraction of the metal.

From the descriptions given of the ore and mine of Almaden, in Spain, it would appear that
there are many points of similarity in the two localities. The vein at Almaden is described as
very thick, and composed of massive cinnabar. Itis also reached by atunnel. The furnaceg at
New Almaden differ from any in use elsewhere, and are very simple and effective. The large blocks
of ore, and rock containing it, are not crushed, but are piled loosely together in a brick chamber,
as if they were to be roasted. The flames from an exterior fire are made to pass through this
chamber and the ore; and the products of combustion, together with volatilized sulphuret, pass
on through a series of chambers until the separation of the sulphur and the mercury is com-
plete, and the metal is condensed. "The smoke, sulphurous, and carbonic acids escape through
a tall chimney. In this process the sulphur appears to be oxidized by the free oxygen which
passes through the fuel. No lime is used, and there is no necessity for crushing the ore; it is
an exceedingly simple process, but is adapted to that peculiar ore only.

Some idea of the amount of quicksilver which this mine produces may be obtained from the
record of the amount exported from San Francisco—all of it the production of the mine, but
exclusive of the large quantity used in the State. This, in 1856, amounted in value to $831,724."

GOLD.

The route followed by the Expedition passed within a few miles of the great auriferous quartz
veins of Mariposa county, and, for a part of the time in that vicinity, over earth which would
doubtless yield gold if prospected under favorable circumstances—water being very scarce. We
were also at one time very near a mining town called Quartzburg, so named from the number
of the quartz veins in the vicinity, and the mills erected there for crushing the quartz and
extracting the gold.

This region appears to be peculiarly rich in huge quartz veins, or ۴ dykes” and “ ledges,”

These‏ 4 ه
odi with‏

as

1 I copy the following notice of the Almaden mines from the Journal of the Geological Society of London
mining s were known to the Romans. A long, tunnel-like gallery, the Socabon del Castillo, lined throug
nn roomy enough to admit of carts with two horses abreast, and furnished on both sides with granite foo

m the flat valley, at the southern side of the ridge, on which Almada is built, into the mine ; the whol
underm ined. From this tunnel — other passages are cut into the clay- slate, which is the matrix of 71 Hore f 23
merly Mond a horse-winch for the Beine of the ore. The w each a depth of 1,140 fee
with a strike east and west, and a nearly prd dip of Mac xe "i 709, has an almost hash bulk.
story, of which the mine has nine, the vein eighteen feet strong ; in the lowest it is 60 The spectacle o
vein of ore at the working places is gorgeous, en the dark-red color of the cinnabar, which appears sometimes es Ze
sometimes in dense masses, and sometimes even finely nitrum ized. Dispersed through it are calcspar druses, and = vd
places small holes and;clefts are filled with pure quicksilver.’’—(Jour. Geol. Soc. London VII, 1850-51. Translated fr
hard U. Bronn’s N. Jaarb. F. Min. W. S. W., 1850, 4 H , p. y and Bergwerk s freund, 1849, XIII, p. 12, ۰

? Report on Commerce and Navigation for 1856, page 340.

|
۱
۱

— TEM —

QUARTZ VEINS IN THE GOLD REGION. 207

they are very commonly called. We could see over a very considerable extent of the surface of
the hills east of us, and here and there, long, white, lines like walls of stone were visible. These
were the outcrops of the quartz veins, trending, for the most part, parallel with the bedding of.
the metamorphic slates which they traverse. An outcrop near our trail formed a conspicuous

OUTCROP OF A GREAT QUARTZ YEIN.

feature in the scenery. The great blocks of snowy whiteness contrasted finely with the dark-
colored slates on each side; and, being little acted on by the weather, have accumulated ina
long line, like a cyclopean wall, while the surrounding rocky foundations have mouldered away.

This, ànd similar ledges of dense, vitreous quartz, are not favorably regarded in the gold
region, for the very good reason thàt they seldom contain gold; orif in small quantity, the
labor of extraction is too expensive to be undertaken.

Another great vein of quartz, near the road we followed, was rendered very interesting by its
association with a very compact but hydrated peroxide of iron. This ore presents some remark-
able peculiarities at this locality, and is described in another part of this chapter. It is probable
that this ferruginous quartz vein is.auriferous, but no gold could be detected by the eye.

From this vein to the Mariposa river, we passed along the border of the gold region ; and an
occasional quartz vein was seen. A great part of the ground that we passed over was highly
colored with oxide of iron, and loose fragments of quartz were numerous on the surface.

On the Fresno and San J oaquin rivers, miners were at work ; and a considerable quantity of
fine scale gold was being removed from the alluvial drift. Between the San Joaquin River and
Posuncula or Kern River, rocks of the auriferous series were seen at several places ; especially
38 F

298 GEOLOGY.

along the Four Creeks, Tule River, Moore's and White Creek. Along this part of the route
there were many indications of gold ; but I could not learn that this section had been prospected
with any success. I ‘‘ panned out'' some of the gravel and sand from the beds of several of the
creeks, and did not obtain gold; but there was no opportunity for a fair trial, and the result
could not be considered as conclusive.

While encamped near Posuncula River, a party of prospectors returned from its headwaters,
and reported the existence of gold ; since that time, extensive and rich deposits have been
opened and worked.

Placers near the San Francisquito Rancho.—The auriferous slates, or talcose and micaceous
slates, resembling those of the gold regions of the Sierra and of the Atlantic slope, which occur
in the Bernardino Sierra, at the Pass of San Francisquito, have already been described. That
region has been known as auriferous for many years, and placer mines were worked there long
before the gold on the slope of the Sierra Nevada was discovered.

According to De Mofras, the gold of the San Francisquito Rancho was first explored by M.
Charles Baric, a Frenchman. He gives its distance in the mountains as six leagues to the
northward of the Mission of San Fernando, and fifteen leagues from Los Angeles. He further
states: ‘‘ This vein has an extent of six leagues, following the direction of the ravine where it is
situated. The gold is found near the surface of the soil, and some pieces weigh two to three
drachms.’’! This description leads me to regard the deposit as a placer, along the tsream,
although it is described as a vein ( filon.) Since the locality was examined, accounts have been
received from Los Angeles, stating that a placer had been discovered about eighteen miles from
that city. The gold is described as being in the usual form of fine scales and grains; but the
richness of the placer does not yet compare favorably with those at the base of the Sierra
Nevada. |

Armagosa Mines, Great Basin.—A vein of auriferous quartz occurs in the Great Basin, not
far from the Mormon trail to the Great Salt Lake, and about one hundred and seventy miles
from Los Angeles. This locality has been prospected by parties from San Francisco, and several
companies have been organized to work it, but have not been successful, and the mine is now
abandoned. I have not been able to obtain any reliable information of the quantity, or mine-
ralogical and geological association of the gold ; except, that it occurs in masses of considerable
weight, ramifying through the gangue.

Several small specimens which I have obtained show that carbonate of lime is one of the
principal minerals of the gangue, and filaments of gold are found penetrating the mineral in all
directions. A small rombohedron of cale spar, obtained by cleavage, contains a short string of
gold about the size of a knitting-needle, which protrudes from the opposite faces and appears >
have been entirely embedded in the calcite.

The locality is far in the interior, and in the midst of a most forbidding and desolate country.
It would require a very rich vein to encourage extensive operations; and they must always be
attended with great expense, in consequence of the distance from provisions, or land fitted for
agriculture.

The fact, however, that gold exists in considerable quantity at this point, so far east of the
Sierra Nevada, is a significant one, and of great importance. ۱

The wide expanse of the Great Basin is made up of granitic ridges and their slopes, forming
a broad area of bare granitic rocks and their debris. The existence of gold in place, in one "

! De Mofras’ Exploration of Oregon and California.

GOLD UPON THE COAST—CRYSTALLINE GOLD. 299

these ridges, indicates its existence in others; and large quantities of the metal have probably
been ground out by denudation and mingled with the debris; thus forming placers which may
possibly equal in richness those of the Sierra Nevada. The scarcity of water in those desert
wastes isa great bar to exploration, and to the practical testing of the richness of the drift.
If, however, gold should be found to exist in considerable quantities in the lower strata of drift,
it is probable that water from distant streams could be brought to bear upon it.

‚Colorado River.—Gold is reported to exist in the mountain ranges north of the Desert, and
bordering the Colorado. When at Fort Yuma, a party of prospectors returned from a short
trip among these ranges, and also from the mountains on the east side of the stream. They
report gold as existing in the ravines and cañons; but it is far from water, and they were
obliged to transport the earth that they tested several miles before washing it out. I visited
the extreme point of the range north of Pilot Knob, and found numerous quartz veins traversing
the granite and metamorphic rocks ; but there was nothing in their appearance that indicated
the presence of gold. In some of the arroyos, leading from the mountain, a large amount of
brilliant, black sand was found, mingled with small, but perfectly formed, garnets. It is
mingled with the debris of granite; and no evidences of the presence of the magnesian gold-
bearing rocks were seen.

Coast Mountains.—Gold is reported to have been found at various places in the Coast Moun-
tains; in the Santa Cruz range, nearly west of New Almaden ; and in the counties of Monterey,

. Santa Clara, San Luis Obispo, and San Diego.

Port Orford.—The gold of Port Orford, on the coast, is exceedingly interesting for the
quantity of Platinum, Iridium, and Osmium with which it is associated. It is in very fine,
round scales, and is found upon the beach mixed with great quantities of heavy, black sand,
from which it is separated with great difficulty. The quantity of platinum, or mixed metals, is
variable, ranging from five to twenty per cent., or more. As these metals cannot be separated
from the gold by washing, the value of the product is much lessened, and it is often difficult to
make a sale of the mixed metals in San Francisco. An analysis of the metals is given beyond.

Crystalline Gold. —Among the heaps of placer gold in grains, scales, and lumps which accu-
mulate in the banking and assay offices of the chief mining towns, m: in San Francisco, bruised
and water-worn crystals are sometimes found.

In comparison with the great bulk of the gold, their number or weight is very slight. Even
the bruised specimens are comparatively rare. This arises, in part, from the habit among the
miners of retaining curiously-formed specimens for their own use and gratification ; but it is
certain that the great bulk of the gold product is so much worn by attrition that, 1f crystals
formerly existed, their angles are now lost. In some sections of the gold region crystalline
masses of great beauty are found even in the drift.

At Forest Hill, Placer county, I obtained several well-formed octahedrons, about three-eighths
of an inch across the base. Most of these crystals are but little water-worn, but are generally
distorted or flattened parallel to a face of the octahedron, so that they become mere triangular
plates. Some of the octahedrons have the hollow or depressed faces. An imperfect octahedral
Crystal, of great size, was once taken from the drift of this claim. "The planes were only par-
tially developed for a short distance above and below the basal ridges, so that a hollow or
cavernous crystal was produced. A succession of planes had commenced to form one inside of
the other, and were separated by about the thickness of a card, while the sheets of gold forming
the planes were, in some instances, not thicker than paper. The crystal was slightly elongated

300 GEOLOGY,

in the direction of two opposite basal edges, and was thus an imperfect rectangular octahedron.
Its greatest length of base is one inch, and in the other direction it is seven-eighths of an inch.
When found, all the spaces between the interior plates of gold were charged with a hard crust
of peroxide of iron. _

The most beautiful specimens of crystalline gold are those in which the crystals are combined
with an arborescent or dendritic growth of the metal like the leaves of ferns or the foliage of the
arbor vitee. Specimens of this character are not found among the rudely transported drift} but
can be obtained only from their original bed in the solid rocks. Some of the most remarkable
and beautiful specimens ever seen were taken out of the cavities of a quartz vein at Irish Creek,
about three miles from Coloma. They presented various and complicated combinations, being
arborescent, in broad, paper-like sheets, studded with brilliant crystals, and in solid octahedrons.
These were combined together in the most interesting manner, giving an effect far beyond the
reach of art.

A very fine specimen of this character in my collection has the form of a leaf; one side is
arborescent and very brilliant, and the other is studded with about twenty-five perfect octahedral
crystals. They are geometrically arranged, all their similar edges being parallel. This is
believed to be the most beautiful and curious specimen known. Its weight is seventeen penny-
weights and ten grains. Length, two and one-quarter inches ; width, one and a half.

One of the largest specimens of this arborescent and foliated gold from Irish Creek was about
twelve inches long and about four broad. A part of the specimen was a plate three or four
inches long, covered with triangular marks; the remainder was arborescent, and the whole
appeared to have grown from one end. Another specimen, slightly different in its character, and
probably from another locality in the vicinity, was ten inches long, three broad, and about half
an inch thick. It weighed thirty-one ounces, and was free from quartz; forming a most beautiful
mass of a rich yellow color, and a delicately-marked surface, consisting of a net-work of fibres.
It appeared like a bundle of broken fern-leaves closely matted together.

With one exception, all of the crystals which have come under my observation are octahedrons;
not a single cube has been seen. The exception is a single crystal, a pentagonal dodecahedron,

upon one of the broad plates of gold.

PLATINUM AND IRIDOSMINE—PLATINIRIDIUM.

Grains and scales of Platinum, Iridosmine, and the associate metals, occur with the gold in
almost all parts of the great gold-field, but are most abundant in the northern mines. These
metals constitute a very large part of the product of the washing of the black sands of the beach
at Port Orford and the coast in its vicinity. They cannot be separated from the thin scales of
gold by washing, and amalgamation with mercury is resorted to by the miners to obtain the
latter. After the removal of the gold the residue is found to consist, in part, of round, flattened
scales of Platinum or Platiniridium, which are mostly lifted by a magnet. Two or three ounces
of this residue were obtained in San Francisco from a miner who had returned from the locality,
and a portion of the sample was submitted to Dr. F. A. Genth, of Philadelphia, for chemical
investigation. An analysis was made in his laboratory by Mr. Charles A. Kurlbaum, jr., with

the following results:

‘Insoluble in aqua regia, (Osmiridium) Ses ARTT
Platinum ¿nes 43.04
Iridium ... 3... 0.00
Rhodium - a de 0.28

4

ANALYSIS OF THE MIXED METALS OF PORT ORFORD—SILVER. 301

Palladium 0.49
d 1.32
Silver 0.13
Copper 0.38
Lead 0.03
Iron 4.52
100.00

The Platinum separated by the analysis is found to be almost pure, containing but little

Iridium, ۱
SILVER,

Silver is not yet obtained by mining in California, except in combination with the gold. Its
ores have been found, however, at several points, and itis probable that when the attention of the
mining-population is to some extent diverted from the development of the riches of the placers
and auriferous veins, veins of silver will be discovered. The ores, however, are not generally
known, and may frequently be passed over in ignorance.

During my residence in San Francisco the attention of the public was frequently excited by
glowing reports of the discovery of immense deposits of silver ore in Monterey county. Some
specimens of this ore were sent to San Francisco, and being handed to me for examination,
proved to be an excellent article of chrome-iron ore. The specimens had the green crusts and
coatings which are so common in the fissures of the massive chrome ore of Wood's Pit, Mary-
land, and which are the oxide and carbonate of nickel—Emerald nickel of the mineralogists.
Numerous reports were also in circulation concerning a great vein of silver ore in the mountains
north and west of the Mission of San Fernando. This ore was no other than the sulphuret of
antimony in the San Amédio Mountain, already described. |

At the Alisal Rancho, in Monterey county, veins of silver, bearing galena and sulphuret of
iron, are found traversing a white granitic rock, composed, near the vein, of quartz and feldspar
in nearly equal parts. "These veins are about twenty-five miles distant from the Mission of San
Carlos, and are on the east side of the Salinas Valley, in the foot-hills. Three veins are reported

“to exist there, one having been recently discovered. The locality is said to have been known

for a long time, and to have been resorted to by Indians before the settlement of the country.
It is also stated that the vein was worked in 1831 by a Mexican miner. It was again worked
in 1852 by Germans, but without success. I have not visited this locality, but have recently
received several specimens from three veins, including the one but recently discovered, (in 1855.)
One of the specimens from the old vein has a rusty-brown appearance like the surface specimens
of a ferruginous vein of lead ores ; thecleavage surface of galena was distinct, and a small cavity
was lined with small, translucent erystals, which appeared to be cerusite, (carbonate of lead.)
This specimen has the appearance of an argentiferous galena, and doubtless will yield a fair
amount of silver on cupellation. ۱ ۱

Another specimen consisted of compact quartz, with traces of sulphuret of iron and copper,
It is stained with the blue and green carbonates of copper—azurite and malachite. A third
specimen contained, in addition to sulphuret of iron, a dark, brittle mineral, in small quantitys
Which proved to be metallic arsenic.

According to De Mofras, silver ores occur about two leagues northwest of Cohuenga Rancho,
and were not worked for want of mercury and knowledge of processes. He further observes
that the Indians often bring in from the mountains, grains of copper, fragments of opal, and

302 GEOLOGY.

pieces of galena. Mines of gold and silver are also said to have been found about fourteen
leagues from San Diego. They were once worked by a man from Guanajuato.!

Silver, in combination with tellurium, has been found at two or more places in the mining
region, in the auriferous drift. Itis reported, also, that a fragment of native silver was obtained
from the auriferous gravel near Mokelumne Hill.

We may look with considerable confidence for argentiferous minerals in the region of the
great belt of the metamorphic limestone, which traverses several counties, if not the entire length
of the State.

TELLURET OF SILVER—HESSITE?

A mineral, which gives all the reactions for tellurium and silver, was obtained near George-
town, El Dorado county. It resembles a fragment of tarnished lead or silver glance, but is
chiefly composed of silver and tellurium, and is probably the species Hessite. "The mass is about
one inch in length and breadth, and is entirely free from gangue, but incloses native gold, which
appears at several points on its surface. Anaggregation of cubical crystals, resembling galena,
is implanted on one side, and the other is deeply indented with angular cavities, probably the
print of quartz crystals.

The massive portions of the specimens are sectile and malleable, and do not show any traces of
erystalization ; they may be cut with a knife, like lead, and give a brilliant metallic surface.
The hardness is about equal to 2 on the scale of Mohs, |

In the open tube, before the blowpipe flame, the mineral fuses quietly, coloring the glass a
bright yellow under the assay ; a white, or gray, sublimate is deposited at a short distance, or
immediately over it, which, on being heated, fuses into transparent drops resembling oil. On
charcoal it fuses readily to a leaden-colored globule, which, on cooling, becomes covered with
little points or dendrites. This globule flattens under the hammer, but breaks on the edges.
With the addition of a little carbonate of soda, a globule of silver is readily obtained. A frag-
ment, heated to redness in a closed tube or matrass, with carbonate of soda and charcoal dust,
gives, on the addition of a few drops of boiling water, the beautiful violet-red or purple solution
described by Berzelius as characteristic of tellurium. This solution loses its color after standing.
for some time, and a dark-colored powder is deposited. "The mineral dissolvesin hot nitric acid,
with the separation of tellurous acid in crystals. The specific gravity is found to be 8.33. ۱

The color of this mineral is darker than the Hessite of Savodinsky, Siberia, and it is not quite
so hard. Hessite, according to the analysis by G. Rose, has the following composition :?

Tellurium 36. 96
Silver 62.42
Iron : . 24

I am indebted to P. C. Currier, esq., of Georgetown, for the specimen which hen ی‎
described. It was obtained in that vieinity, and probably taken from the auriferous drift with
gold, but it cannot have been transported far from its original source.

A specimen seen in the possession of a broker in San Francisco, in 1854, gre
the massive part of the specimen just described. The small fragment of it which was then
obtained also gives the reactions for tellurium and silver. Its precise locality is not ae
It is probable that tellurium, combined with silver, lead, or bismuth, will be found in the

atly resembled

! De Mofras’ Exploration of Oregon and California.
2 Quoted in Dana's Mineralogy, vol. ii., page 44.

MINERALS. 303

auriferous quartz of Grass Valley, and other localities. A few specimens in my collection
contain small, brilliant grains resembling tetradymite, but their exact character is not yet
determined.!

ARSENIC,

This metal occurs, in connexion with argentiferous galena and sulphurets of iron and copper,
at the Alisal Rancho, in Monterey county, twenty-five miles from the Mission of San Carlos,
This mineral, on being heated, passes off in vapor, and burns quickly, forming a white cloud of
arsenious acid—the “ arsenic’’ of the shops. It will thus be seen that the roasting or smelting
of this ore would be highly dangerous to the workmen. Arsenic is a common associate of
silver ores.

CHROMIC IRON.

Extensive beds of massive chromic iron are said to exist in the mountains of Monterey county.
Masses of the ore which were submitted to me for examination proved to be fully equal to the
best ore of the northern counties of Maryland and of Lancaster county, Pennsylvania. The
resemblance of the specimens to the massive ore from ** Wood’s Pit ’ is so close that specimens
could not be distinguished if mingled. Crusts of emerald nickel, of the same beautiful dark-
green color as that found on the Maryland ores, covered portions of the specimens.

This mineral is used for the manufacture of bichromate of potash, and has been mined to a
considerable in a ag and exported. A supply is now more cheaply obtained from Asia
Minor.

EMERALD NICKEL.

The green coats and compact crusts which are found in the seams of the chromic iron of
Monterey county correspond with the emerald nickel associated with the chrome ores of ** Wood's
Pit," near the line between Maryland and Pennsylvania. This mineral was first brought to
notice by Professor B. Silliman, jr., and is a hydrated carbonate of nickel, with the following
composition in 100 parts :?

Oxyde of nickel 58. 811
Carbonic acid 11. 691
Water 29. 498

This mineral does not occur in quantities sufficient to warrant working the locality for nickel.
It is, apparently, a product of decomposition of the gangue of the chrome ore, for at Wood's
Pit a considerable amount of nickel is found in the associate minerals.

ILMENITE.

A beautiful compound crystal of this mineral was obtained from Georgetown, El Dorado
county, it having been taken from the gold washings of that vicinity. The crystalline planes
are very perfect and brilliant, but there are few modifications. The only planes noted are those
of the rhombohedron and a broad triangular plane upon the axis, resulting from the truncation
of the solid vertical angle.

^ A notice of the occurrence of telluret of silver in California was veniunt to the Academy of Natural Sciences of

Califo ornia, and is published in the American Journal of Science, vol. xxiii, page 2 ۱
Silli و‎ jr., American Journal of Science, second series, vi, 248. Also in Pad System of Mineralogy.

304 GEOLOGY.

Ilmenite is a compound of titanic acid and sesquioxide of iron, in varying proportions; the
analyses of specimens from various American and European localities showing the presence of
from 8 to 53 per cent. of the former, and 46 to 91 of the latter. The mineral has not yet been
made use of in the arts. It occurs in great beds in Canada, at St. Paul's Bay, and in crystals,
similar to the Georgetown specimen, in the northern part of Sussex county, New Jersey, and in
the adjoining town of Amity, Orange county, New York. Its occurrence in grains in the gold
sand of California has also been noted by Professor Dana.

TOURMALINE.

Black tourmalines, or crystals of schorl, of immense size are found in the feldspathic veins on
the north side of the Valley of San Felipe, San Diegocounty. Nearly all the crystals areimperfectly
formed ; and the locality is chiefly interesting for their great size and peculiarities of aggrega-
tion, which present some curious phenomena of crystallization. These phenomena will be:
understood by inspection of the figure, which represents a great
number of small, slender prisms of schorl grouped around a central
nucleus of two or more larger ones. The outline of the whole
group is triangular, and the mass may be considered as forming one
crystal. All the interstices between the prisms are filled by trans-
lucent quartz, and this mineral does not extend beyond the boundary
of the group. The whole is imbedded in feldspar. We may con-
sider this to be the frame-work of a large crystal, which was not

SS SS completed for want of a sufficient amount of bases to combine with
| CRYSTAL OF TOURMALINE. the silica, and it is an instructive example of the incorporation of
extraneous matter within crystals. This is known to be the source of many conflicting results of
chemical analysis, and it is doubtless more common than is generally supposed.

ANDALUSITE.

Remarkably fine specimens of this interesting mineral were obtained in the sands of the
Chowchillas River, at the point where it is crossed by the road, and in the upper stratum of the
sedimentary deposits which rise in hills on each side of the stream. This stratum is a coarse
conglomerate, and is charged with water-worn crystals of the mineral of various sizes. The
crystals are also found imbedded in rounded masses of slate—the debris of outcrops higher up
on the flanks of the Sierra. Some of the specimens found in the river did not appear to have
been derived from the degradation of the conglomerate, and very probably have been transported
directly from the original source. The crystals tound in the bed of the stream were unusually
large, being from one-quarter to over an inch in diameter, and one to two inches long. AB
the edges and angles were rounded off and worn away in consequence of the constant attrition
to which they had been subjected. Someof these crystals present a delicate pink, or rose color,
shading into purple, and are translucent.

This mineral occurs in granitic or metamorphic rocks, and is generally disseminated in long
prisms in fine-grained mica slate. A mass of slate of this character, filled with Andalusite,
was found on the bank of the river. Its color is dark; and it is very fine-grained, consisting
chiefly of finely comminuted mica, mingled with clay. It is very compact, and has a silky or
satin-like lustre. The crystals are much lighter in color, and, being harder than the slate,

MINERALS—CHIASTOLITE OR MACLE. 305

they stand out above its surface, and are thus distinctly presented to view, forming beautiful
cabinet specimens. The crystals are mostly exposed on the ends, and they appear rectangular,
The specimens obtained at the Chowchillas River, and in the conglomerate, are all of the
variety of andalusite called chiastolite, or macle, formerly considered a distinct species. This
variety presents characters which give it a peculiar interest. When the prisms are broken, or
ground down at right angles to the main axis, remarkable geometrical figures are exposed.
These consist of black lines, or masses, regularly and symetrically disposed around the centre
of the crystal, and generally occupying the diagonals of the prism. Various designs are thus
produced, and they generally take tht form of a cross. These peculiarities will be better under-
stood from the following figures, taken from specimens obtained at the locality.

5

. 6
CRYSTALS OF ANDALUSITE OR MACLE.

These peculiar geometrical figures, so often forming a perfect cross, rendered this mineral in
ancient times an object of search for ornamental purposes and for devotional uses. Opposite
ends of the same crystal often do not show the same arrangement of the black portions, as
shown in figure 7. The central black prism, or nucleus, is often pyramidal in form; and at
one end may be nearly as broad as the whole crystal, but at the other appears as a mere point
inthecentre. This is well shown in one of the specimens taken from the bed of the river,
which has been cut and polished by the lapidary in four places. Although the outer surface of
the crystal is dark-yellowish drab in color, the interior is quite light, and has a delicate shade
of yellow and gray. A brilliant internal reflection. from a multitude of points in the mass of
the mineral is also seen, and when it is held in certain positions it much resembles some speci-
mens of feldspar. In this light-colored ground the dark, black lines of a cross, or central
rectangle, show with distinctness, forming. specimens of great beauty. At one end of the
erystal this rectangle is quite small, and forms almost a mere point in the centre of the crystal ;
but each succeeding section, towards the other end, reveals its enlargement, until it finally
includes the great body of the prism within its sides. :

We must look for an explanation of the formation of these peculiar characters to the arrangement
of impurities in the body of the crystal by the forces of crystallization. "This explanation was ad-
vanced by Beudant,! and is supported by the specimens under consideration. Similar phenomena
are exhibited in crystals of different salts formed in a fluid containing light impurities. "These
become inclosed in the mass of the crystal without materially modifying its form, and are
found distributed in symetrical figures, their form and direction depending on the system of
crystallization. The impurities in the crystals of andalusite consist of portions of the sur-
rounding mica-schist, and a specimen is figured by Dufrénoy, showing the passage of the central
black prism into the surrounding rock. This portion has the schistose structure of the rock,
and gradually tapers to a point, while the white portions of the crystal increase in thickness as

! Traité de Mineralogie, Beudant.
39 F

; de

306 GEOLOGY.

the prism becomes developed. According to M. Durocher,! in a memoir upon metamorphism,
the four bands of the black material, placed in the diagonals of tke prisms, are formed of the
same substance as the argillaceous schist which penetrates the interior of the crystal. This
material preserves its schistose structure, and the films are disposed in the same plane as in the
adjacent rock. The crystals would thus appear to result from the metamorphism of the
elements of the schist, they being gradually replaced by a more compact and vitreous substance,
Dufrénoy considers that the crystals of macle are the result of igneous action upon sedimentary
beds, and states that the most perfectly formed crystals are found near the intruded igneous
rocks, while at a distance from them the crystallization "becomes indistinct and the prisms
appear to pass gradually into the mass of the surrounding rock. He also states that fossils
have been found in the midst of schists containing well developed macles. These fossils show
the sedimentary origin of the beds, and the macles indicate subsequent metamorphism.

According to Dufrénoy, the two materials which compose the macles are essentially different;
the white portions being hard enough to scratch glass, and infusible before the blow-pipe; the
black material is easily scratched by a steel point, and is fusible to a black glass.

The specimens which I have obtained, with one or two exceptions, have not the usual hard-
ness ; they appear to be changed by long exposure. Nearly all of them are easily scratched by
a knife, being nearly or quite as soft as calc-spar ; crystals which were found in the stream, and
are translucent, are equally soft; but one of a flesh-red or rose color from the conglomerate
scratches glass.

Crystals of macle have the specific gravity 2.94 to 3. The chemical composition is identical
with andalusite. M. Bunsen has analyzed the white portions of a specimen from Lancaster,
Mass., with the following result:

Silica . 39.00
Alumina.. p 58. 56
Oxide of manganese. . - 0. 53
Lime "ner 0. 21
98.30.

The specimens from the Chowchillas are unusually large, and present a great variety ot
interesting figures, and these being formed by dark lines on a nearly white or drab-colored
ground are more striking and interesting than those from the well-known locality of Lancaster,
Massachusetts. It would be interesting to the mineralogist to visit the original source of the
specimens ; they must be very abundant, as they now form a not inconsiderable part of the
conglomerate which covers the hills. Some interesting developments regarding metamorphism
also undoubtedly await the explorer. x

According to M. Dufrénoy* this curious mineral was observed for the first time by Comm:
Bournon in the mountains of Forez, France. It was afterwards found at Andalusia, in Spain,
whence its name, and it has since been obtained at numerous localities in Europe, but always in
analogous positions. Fine crystallizations occur in the valley of Lisenz, near Inspruck, = the
Tyrol, and at Westford, Massachusetts. It is found in fine specimens at Lancaster and Sterling;
Mass. ; at Bellows Falls, Vt.; Charlestown, N. H.; Litchfield and Washington, Conn. ; and
in Maine. Bs

! Compte-Rendus de Y Académié des Sciences, xxii, 923, June, 1846.
* Traité de Mineralogie, iii, p. 229, Paris, 1847.

T AE

MINERALS. 5 807 '

FELDSPAR,

Crystals of feldspar occur in San Diego county, in the granite veins along the road between
Santa Isabel and San Pasqual, and are associated with tourmalines and garnets. Large and
tolerably perfect crystals can be obtained from some of the coarse feldspathic veins. It is
probable that they will also be found in the similar coarse veins traversing the metamorphio
rocks on the eastern or Gulf side of the chain.

BRONZITE.

The crystals occurring abundantly in the serpentinoid rocks of Fort Point; at the Orphan
Asylum, and on the summit of Mount Diablo, are referred to the species bronzite or diallage.
It is most distinctly developed at the locality on Mount Diablo, where it forms great rocky
masses of confused crystals. In the serpentine near San Francisco, the crystals are isolated in
the mass of the rock, and their broad and tabular cleavage faces are exposed when the rock is
broken. On exhibiting the specimen from Mount Diablo to Professor Charles U. Shepard, he
assured me that it bore the closest resemblance to the bronzite of Bacher Mount, Styria, occurring
with serpentine.

Diallage and bronzite are varieties of pyroxene or vangité; and are associated with serpentine
in New England and Europe. An analysis of a Greenland specimen of bronzite by Kobell
yielded :!

Silica 58. 00

Magnesi 29. 66

Protoxide of iron ........ 10. 14

M. ngaue 1.00

Alumina 1.33
An analysis of the California Xp is very desirable.
CHRYSOTILE.

Chrysotile occurs in the serpentine near San Francisco and at New Almaden, forming thin
seams resembling amianthus or asbestos. lt is seen standing out slightly above the surface of
some weather-worn masses, covering them with lines like the reticulations of a net. The seams,
80 far as observed, are very thin, and do not furnish good cabinet specimens. The mineral is
believed to have the composition of serpentine, and isa fibrous variety. It may, however, prove
to be fibrous augite or amianthus. An analysis of a specimen of chrysotile from New Haven,
Conn., by Professor George J. Brush, yielded :?

Silica -. 44. 05

Magnesia 39. 24

Protoxide of iron 2. 53

Water 13 49
GYPSUM.

Thin PUPA plates of selenite are common in the soft, unconsolidated, sedimentary forma-
tions in various parts of the State. In some localities it occurs abundantly, and the seams are
many inches thick. These seams or layers are generally conformable with the stratification ;
and some observations upon their origin are already presented in Chapter XIII. This mineral

` Journal für pratische Chemie, Ch. xxxvi, 303, Cited in Dana's Mineralogy, 4th ed., p. 162,
® Dana's Mineralogy, 4th ed., II, p. 283.

a ALA EN TES Na راهان‎

308 GEOLOGY.

was observed at Benicia (Navy Point) and Ocoya creek. At the antimony vein, near the Pass

of San Amédio, it occurs abundantly in crystals, similar in their size and

modifications to that represented in the figure. They are found in the

decomposed portions of the vein, and good cabinet specimens can be

^ — — obtained. The mineral was also observed in the Great Basin; near the

entrance to the New Pass, and at Carrizo Creek near the Desert. It was not found at either of
these places in quantities sufficient for the purposes of the arts or agriculture.

CALCITE—CARBONATE OF LIME.

Several small masses of transparent ‘calcite, equal to the variety called Iceland spar,
were picked up on the surface of the Colorado Desert, north of the Emigrant Road, from the
mouth of the Gila to Carrizo Creek. They are probably washed out of the soft Tertiary strata,
in which so many concretions or clay-stones occur. One of the specimens is a perfect crystal,
an unmodified rhombohedron—angle 105°, It is about three-quarters of an inch in diameter,
and its surface is slightly dimmed or ground by the action of the driving sand.

In the pass through the Peninsula Mountains, called Jacum, several miles south of Warner's
Pass, thin seams of crystallized carbonate of lime are abundant. The crystals are acute
rhombohedrons, about half an inch long, and are thickly implanted upon a thin crust of the
same mineral, so that they form interesting cabinet specimens. Small crystals of similar form
were noticed in veins and cavities of the white limestone in the Tejon Pass.

At the quicksilver mine, New Almaden, this mineral occurs in obtuse rhombohedrons, lining
the cavities in the veins. Veins of calcite are very abundant in this mine, and they traverse
the ore in all directions, cutting directly across the small veins and strings of the cinnabar, 0
that their continuity is completely broken. Small zn of bitumen are sometimes found
implanted among the crystals.

MAGNESITE—CARBONATE OF MAGNESIA.

Immense beds of nearly pure carbonate of magnesia were found in the foot-hills of the Sierra
Nevada, between the Four Creeks and Moore’s Creek. These beds are from one to six feet in
thickness, and are interstratified with talcose and chloritic slates and serpentine. The mineral
is snowy white, and being on the side of a high ridge, the outcrops are visible from the plain
for a distance of several miles,

The rock is compact and homogeneous, and does not show any traces of erystalization, but
breaks with a smooth, conchoidal surface, somewhat resembling broken porcelain, but it is not
so translucent. Its hardness is not less than 5.2 of the scale of Mohs. It is so hard and dense
that it cannot be cut with a knife, but may be ground perfectly smooth, and polished. No other
minerals or impurities were observed with these beds; they appear to be nearly pure. a
examination showed the presence of a little silica and oxide of iron, probably a carbonate, but
of the latter there is not enough to affect the color of the mass, or stain it by decomposition. "i
contains about forty-seven per cent. of magnesia and fifty-two of carbonic acid. The following
analysis, by Professor T. S. Hunt, is of the magnesite of Sutton, Canada East, where it occurs
in large quantities:

a saete 83. 35‏ مه موی مرو لوهجم هد وا ام مه مهدجه Carbonate: of magnesia.‏
人 人 9.02‏
MUR 8.03‏ اه ی وت ید اس دا تک N RI AI o ae‏

1 Report of the progress of the Geological Survey of the Canadas, by Sir W. E. Logan, 1848.

See es ae EN

Ie

MINERALS—SALTS AND INCRUSTATIONS. 309

This Canadian magnesite is not so pure as that of California, and it grows yellow by exposure
to the weather.

Another specimen in my collection is entirely different in its character, being crystalline and
granular, but occurs in masses like limestone. It was presented to me by Dr. Trask, and is from
the mining region. It is covered with beautifully green crusts or films, which somewhat resemble
thin scales of silicate or carbonate of copper. This rock was supposed to consist of quartz and lime-
stone, but had not been examined, when Mr. Hunt, who saw the specimen, immediately recog-
nized it as nearly identical with the magnesite of Canada, and, on examination, finds that the
green films consist of oxides of nickel and chromium. There is an almost unlimited supply of
this mineral at the locality near the Four Creeks. It can be used with great advantage in
many processes in the arts, and is valuable for the preparation of the various salts of magnesia.

SALT.

The principal locality of common salt, near the line of the survey, is in the hills bordering
the Great Basin, on the eastern side of the elevated plain or Valley of Taheechaypah, and near
the Tejon Pass. It is said to occur in a thick bed, from which it is excavated by the Indians,
several mule loads having been taken to the Tejon for the use of the settlement commenced
by Lieutenant Beale. This salt is said to be granular, very clean, and of excellent quality.
Not having seen the locality, it is impossible to describe the association of the salt, or to state
whether it actually occurs interstratified with clay and sand, in the side of a hill, as is repre-
sented. It is possible that it was formed at the bottom of a small lake which has dried up, or
which may become dry during the summer.

A thick crust of salt is formed in this manner by t the annual evaporation of the water of a
shallow pond, called Casteca Lake, near the summit of the Cañada de las Uvas. In the dry
season the water all evaporates, and leaves a thick crust of white salt, which the wind acts on
and blows about like snow.

A salt lake, or dry lake-bed of salt, is also reported to exist in the lowest part of the northern
portion of the Colorado Desert. While we were traversing this Desert, an Indian accompanied
us for a short distance from the Cohuilla villages, and then struck off towards the north for
salt. Salty incrustations were found around most of the springs of the Desert, and along the
streams running into it. The incrustation of Salt Creek, crossed November 20, consists of chlo-
ride of sodium and sul phate of magnesia ; and the crust found on the soil at the Cohuilla vil-
lages, November 18, is chiefly composed of salt, with sulphate of soda and sulphate of magnesia.
The Dry Lake, at the extreme end of the Mojave River, in the Great Basin, has a thick incrus-
tation, formed partly of salt and partly of carbonate of soda and sulphate of magnesia. |

Salt also occurs in the soil along the Mojave, near the foot of the slope from the Cajon Pass,
and is associated with carbonate of soda, sulphate of soda, and sulphate of magnesia. A mass
of rock, at some distance from the river, which appeared moist, was broken into by Lieutenant
Williamson, and a hard nucleus reached, which was afterwards found to attract moisture, and
could not be kept dry when wrapped in paper. On examination it proves to contain chloride of
calcium, in addition to chloride of sodium, nitrate of soda, and sulphate of magnesia.

The coast and climate of California are particularly favorable to the manufacture of salt from
sea water. At Monterey, Santa Barbara, and other places, there are extensive but shallow
lagoons, separated from the ocean by a narrow, canal-likechannel. Such places, on being filled
from the sea at high water, may be shut off, and the water then be allowed to evaporate by

310 GEOLOGY.

the influence of the sun and air alone. It is reported that great deposits of salt, formed in this
way by the action of the sea, have been found on islands in the Gulf of California, and are now
being worked. Even Vizcaino, in his narrative as long since as 1602, noticed the numerous

deposits of salt in Lower California.

CARBONATE OF SODA. i | ;

Carbonate of soda occurs at many places, توریب‎ with salt and sulphate of magnesia, but
has not been observed in crystals, or so isolated from other salts asto be specifically recognized.

It occurs, with other salts, at the borders of Kern Lake, Tulare Valley ; in incrustations on -

the bottom-land of the Santa Anna River, near San Bernardino ; in the soil along the Mojave
River, Great Basin, and in the incrustation of the Soda Lake, at the end of the Mojave River.
The last locality is the most important, and is an extensive deposit, but is not very thick. A
portion of the crust taken from the lake gives a strongly alkaline solution, which contains: _

Carbonate of soda.

Chloride of sodium

Sulphate of magnesia, (trace.) -
Carbonate of lime, (little.) -

Efflorescences of soda, and crusts upon dry pagine are common in Egypt, Asia, and — 9

in semi-desert regions. ۱ ۱

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U. S. PACIFIC RAIL ۸ EXPLORATIONS & SURVEYS
WAR DEPARTMENT,
GEOLOGICAL SECTION
OF THE
BERNARDINO SIERRA
Explored by Lieut. R. S. WILLIAMSON, U. S. Top. Eng? in 1853

FROM THE GREAT BASIN TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN ar SAN. P

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Prepared in the Office of Pacific Rail Road Explorations & Surveys

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William P. Blake.
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U.S.PACIFIC RAIL ROAD EXPLORATIONS & SURVEYS
WAR DEPARTMENT
GEOLOGICAL SECTION
FROM THE
: ۱۱۷ 7
COLORADO RIVER To THe PACIFIC OCEAN
Explored by Lieut R.S WILLIAM SON Corps of Topl Bing? faeit Brale
1553 d
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Horizontal Scale 1:160,000.
Vertical Scale 1: 16,000.

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U.S. PACIFIC RAIL ROAD EX
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GEOLOGI

40,000

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COLORADO DESERT

SEEN TION

THE COLORADO RIVER ALONG THE CHANNEL OF NEW RIVER TO THE VALLEY OF THE ANCIENT LAKE

showing the probable elevation. of the banks of the stream .

COLORADO RIVER

SECTIONS 12,13 &14.PLATE VII.

SONORA DESERT

Upper Plain , Gravel , Pebbles and Sand .

Tide Level | E

de
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|

02/7017۳011 07
Waterline
( Granite )

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SECTION
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COLORADO DESERT
on à line extending northeast from the waterline on the point of rocks
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ANCIENT LAKE
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WAR DEPARTMENT

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Prepared in the Otfice of Pacific Rail Road Exploration and Survey.
WAR DEPARTMENT.

WILLIAM P. BLAKE.

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GEOLOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION .
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APPENDIX.

DOW

APPENDIX,

ARTICLE I.

NOTICE OF THE FOSSIL FISHES.
BY PROFESSOR LOUIS AGASSIZ.

Mosr of the fossil remains of fishes, placed in my hands by Mr. Blake for examination and
identification, belong to the family of sharks; one belongs to that of skates, and another is
remotely allied to the family of mackerels. No fossil sharks’ teeth having been found west of
the Rocky mountains before, the discovery by Mr. Blake of a variety of species belonging to
several genera of the family of sharks, constitutes one of the most interesting additions to our
knowledge that could have been obtained from that quarter; and the importance of these fossils:
to science is further enhanced by the peculiar relations they bear to similar fossils found in the
Atlantie States and in Europe, and to the sharks now living along the shores of the Old and of
the New World,

ECHINORHINUS, Blainv.

i Low BLAKEI, Agassiz, Pl. I, figs. 7, 8, 17.— The most interesting and important discovery,
since the publication of the Poissons Fossiles, is that of the tooth of the genus Echinorhinus
in the tertiary deposits of Ocoya creek, (Posé creek,) at the western base of the Sierra Nevada,
California. The genus Echinorhinus was founded by Blainville for the Squalus Spinosus of Lin-
neus, the only species of the genus, thus far known, which inhabits the Mediterranean, and the
European and African coasts of the Atlantic. I figured the teeth of the same genus under the
name of Goniodus for the same species, (see Poissons Fossiles, vol. iii, p. 94, pl. E, fig. 13,) so
that this name must give way to the Echinorhinus of Blainville. The discovery of the fossil
species of this genus in the Tertiaries of the western slope of the Sierra Nevada is not only
important as carrying back this curious type of sharks to a period older than ours, but also in
disclosing the existence upon the American continent of types in a fossil state, known in the
Old World only among theliving. The fossil species of Echinorhinus differs from the living;
having the main point of the tooth more prominent, and at the same time shorter; an appear-
Ts Which arises from the less prominence of the marginal denticles. This difference may be
distinetly seen by comparing the figures (Pl. I,) with those of the living species given in Pois-
Sons Fossiles, Pl. E, fig. 13.

40 F

APPENDIX.

SCYMNUS, ۰

2. 8. OCCIDENTALIS, Agassiz, Pl. I, figs. 9—13.— The few species upon which Cuvier founded
the genus Scymnus have been of late subdivided by Müller and Henle into two genera—Scym-
nus proper, and Lemargus—all of which are only known among the living. It is another
of the highly interesting discoveries of Mr. Blake to have brought home two teeth from the
Tertiaries of California belonging to this remarkable type. I would even not hesitate to consider
them as indicating a distinct genus, were the number of specimens sufficient to warrant the
inference that the teeth present in every position of mouth as great a difference from the true
Scymnus and Leemargus as the two latter present when compared with one another. At all
events, these teeth belong to the genus Scymnus, as established by Cuvier, and constitute a
very distinct species, on account of the strong bend backwards of the main point of the tooth,
and the distinct, and rather marked serration of the edges of thecrown. Moreover, the inclina-
tion of the central point upon its basis gives these teeth a certain resemblance to those of
Spinax and Centrophorus, and still more with Galeocerdo. The connexion of the teeth of the
same row of the jaw with one another, was evidently the same as in the Scymnus and Lemargus,
as is plainly shown, by the notch upon the inner surface of the root, and the articulating tubercle
at the base of the enamel in both sides. The discovery of a fossil Scymnus in the Tertiaries of
California is particularly interesting in a geographical point of view, since thus far no repre-
sentative of the type has been found in the Pacific ocean.

GALEOCERDO, Miller and Henle.

3. 6. PRODUCTUS, Agassiz, Pl. I, fig. 1-6.—Two species only, of living Galeocerdo have been
known thus far; one from the Indian ocean, and one from the Atlantic. The fossil species
have been traced from the chalk to the upper Tertiaries.

The Atlantic States have already yielded satisfactory indication of the presence of this genus,
during the tertiary period, on the eastern coast of America. Now we receive from the collection
of Mr. Blake a new addition to the range of this remarkable genus. The new species he has
discovered resembles so closely the G'aleocerdo adoncus from the Eocene of Europe, and especially
common in the molasse of Switzerland, that were there not several specimens in the collection,
agreeing with one another in every respect, and unitedly differing from those of the Old World,
I would have been at a loss to distinguish them. »

The California species differs chiefly from the European in having the anterior margin of the.
tooth less arched, with much more minute crenulations, and the serratures on the basilar margin
rather smaller.

PRIONODON, Müller and Henle.

4. P. ANTIQUUS, Agassiz, Pl. I, figs. 15, 16.— Thus far no fossil shark of the tribe of Carcharias
has been known among the fossils; and, as shown in the Poissons Fossiles, all the species formerly
referred to the genus Carcharias have been ascertained to belong to the genus Carcharodon.
Few discoveries in this field could, therefore, be of more interest than finding among the
tertiaries of Ocoya creek a number of teeth agreeing in the deep notch upon the base of the
root, but differing in thelr width as well as in the shape of their edge ; belonging evidently to
the genus Prionodon of Müller and Henle. The larger and broader ones having the edges
‘serrated especially near the base, while the narrow ones are smooth and sharp. These

j EE "

APPENDIX. 315

differences correspond exactly to the differences observed by Müller and Henle between the
same species of the genus Prionodon. A transverse section of the fossil under consideration
shows, moreover, these teeth to have a central cavity, as in those of the whole tribe of Carcharias,
There can, therefore, be no doubt that we have here the first instance of a fossil species of the
type of Carcharias, of the genus Prionodon, which it will be possible under all circumstances to
distinguish from Sphyrna by the difference in the shape and serrature of the tooth in the upper
and lower jaw. The species may be designated under the name of Prionodon antiquus. My
, Galeocerdo denticulatus from Maestricht may, however, belong to this genus. The tooth of this
species being rather erect, while in Galeocerdo the crown of the tooth is bent backward, and its
posterior margin is deeply notched. In Prionodon antiquus, as well as in G. denticulatus, the
crown is but slightly inclined backwards, and though it tapers rapidly to a conical point, that
point does not stand so distinctly out from its base, as in true Galeocerdo.

HEMIPRISTIS, Agassiz.

5. H. HETEROPLEURUS, Agassiz, Pl. I, fig. 14.—The genus Hemipristis was established by me
from fossil teeth of the middle tertiaries of Europe. Dr. R. W. Gibbes has since indicated their
existence among the tertiaries of the Atlantic shores of America, and now we owe to Mr. Blake
the discovery of a tooth of this genus in the deposits of Ocoya creek, California. I have already

remarked how difficult it is to perceive the difference existing between Galeocerdo adoncus of

Europe and the species of that genus existing in California. I am still more doubtful about the
propriety of distinguishing the species of Hemipristis of the west from thoseof Europe. It would
seem extraordinary, however, to find the same species of sharks extending from the Pacific
coast of this continent to central Europe, especially when we find upon closer examination our
living sharks more closely eircumscribed within narrow limits than was formerly supposed.
And yet all the differences I perceive between the Hemipristis of California and those of Europe.
consist in a marked irregularity between the serrature of the hinder margin, when compared
with that of the anterior margin of thetooth. As this may be found to be a constant character,
I would introduce the western species provisionally under the name of H. heteropleurus, or until
the discovery of more specimens decides whether this difference in the serrature of the margin of
the inner sides of the teeth is constant or not.

CARCHARODON, Smith.
6. c. RECTUS, Agassiz, Pl. I, figs. 39-41.—Of all the types of sharks’ teeth, that of Carcharodon,

| next to Lamna and Oxyrhina, is the most numerous in the Tertiary deposits, though there is

only one living species known. Mr. Blake has brought a finely preserved specimen of a medium
sized species of this genus from California. Rather smaller than Carcharodon angustidens, the
tooth has the same form as that species, only that there are no accessary points upon the sides
of the base. Considering its size, this tooth is remarkable for its thickness; and in that respect
it reminds me more of Cacharodon angustidens than any other species. The surface is flat, and
the tooth straight, as in C. angustidens, and to this character the name rectus is intended to
allude. Several species of this genus have been described by Dr. R. W. Gibbes, as occurring
in the Tertiary of the Atlantic States.
OXYRHINA, Agassiz.

T. 0. PLANA, Agassiz, Pl. I, fig. 29, 30.—Since the teeth of Oxyrhina are known to differ in

size, só widely as they do, in the different parts of the” jaw, nothing is more difficult than to

316 APPENDIX.

combine fossil teeth found separated, in such a manner as to leave no doubt about their specific
identity. Several teeth of a very interesting species of Oxyrhina are found among the speci-
mens of fossils brought by Mr. Blake from California, and its resemblance to the O. .
of the Mediterranean is very striking. But, the character by which they differ most strikingly
from the living species, and the fossils already described, consists in the greater flatness of the
teeth, as compared with their width. Some of these are straight, and others slightly bent
backwards. This species I propose to name O. plana. Several species of this genus have been
described from the Atlantic States by Dr. R. W. Gibbes.

8. o. TUMULA, Agassiz, Pl. I., figs. 26, 27, 36, 37, 42-44.— The existence of.a second species
of the genus Oxyrhina in the Tertiaries of California is indicated by several teeth remarkable
for the size and thickness of the roots, as compared with the length of the crown. The speci-
mens agreeing in this character differ greatly in size, and yet not more so than may be seen in
the same jaw of our living species. Found with the preceding by Mr. Blake.

LAMNA. \

9. L. CLAVATA, Agassiz, Pl. I, figs. 19, 20, 21.—Two teeth from Ocoya creek indicate the
existence in California of a species of Lamna allied to Z. cuspidata of the European Miocene,
from which it differs, however, by its smaller size, its shorter and narrower crown, in which
respect it agrees more with L. Hopei of Sheppy. The crown, however, is less arched than in
the latter. The posterior surface is smooth, as in L. cuspidata. Found with the preceding in
the Tertiary formation of Ocoya creek.

. 10. r. ORNATA, Agassiz, Pl. I, fig. 28.—A second species of Lamna has been brought from
California by Mr. Blake. It occurs in the sandstone of Navy Point, Benicia, and is allied to
L. elegans, Agassiz.—(See Recherches sur les Poissons Fossile, vol. 3, p. 289.) It is, however,
a smaller species, and tapers more gradually; while in Z. elegans it tapers more suddenly near
the top, and the folds of the enamel on the inner side of the tooth are coarser. The base of the
tooth is more compressed than in L. elegans, in which respect the tooth resembles more L.
acuminata. The small tooth found with the specimen may be one of the lateral teeth of the
same species ; but it is difficult to determine this without a mieroscopal examination of its struc-
ture. These fossils are unquestionably of Tertiary age. L. elegans is found in the Calcaire
grossier, in the environs of Paris, and in the London clay at Sheppy. The same species is also
found fossil in the Crag, having been transported with the remains of many other species from
the London clay. Several species of this genus have been described from the Atlantic States by
Dr. R. W. Gibbes. ۱

ZYGOBATES, Agassiz.

11, ZYGoBATES ? PL I, fig. 31-35. A fragment of a tooth of the genus Zy gobates -
interesting, inasmuch as it shows that this genus of the order of the family of Skates with
pavement-like teeth to have occurred in California during the Tertiary period ; though the
fragment of the tooth before me is too imperfect to allow the species to be identified. It may
not be out of place to remark that no species of this genus or the allied genera Rhinoptera,
ZEtobates, or Myliobates, have thus far been found in the Pacific ocean.

Several fragments of bone found with the teeth at Ocoya creek (Posé creek) belong
family of Scomberoides, but are too imperfect to admit of being identified.

to the

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ARTICLE II.

DESCRIPTIONS OF THE FOSSIL SHELLS.!

BY T. A. CONRAD.

PHILADELPHIA, Pa., January, 1855.

SIR: I have examined the very interesting organic remains which you collected in California,
and the drawings of such species as were too fragile to preserve, and I herein submit a few
remarks upon their geological relations. There appear to be several distinct groups; but I
cannot pretend, from such scanty materials, to designate what particular formation every group
represents, There is no obscurity resting on the deposits of Santa Barbara and San Pedro,

` Which represent a recent formation, in which you inform me the remains of the mammoth occur-
The shells are generally those which live in the adjacent waters, and. indicate little, if any,

change of temperature since their deposition, The littoral character of this formation is very
evident. Water-worn shells and fragments show the action of.the surf, whilst entire specimens
of bivalves, and Pholadide, and Saxicave, remaining undisturbed in their self-excavated domi-
cils, exhibit the same disposition of marine shells that is familiar to the observer on all sandy
and argillaceous shores. They burrow in clay, mud, or sand, beyond the ordinary action of the
surf; whilst some are scooped out by the tempest-driven surge, and others preyed upon by fishes
and marine animals of various kinds, and are thus broken up and deposited among the living
Species,

Of the Eocene, and the recent formation alluded to, I can speak with confidence; but the
intermediate beds are of uncertain age. The Ostrea vespertina, Anomia subcostata, and Pecten
deserti, occurring in the bank of Carrizo creek, are unlike any recent forms that I am acquainted
with from the Pacific coast, but analagous to Miocene species of Virginia. "This formation may,
therefore, be regarded as of Miocene origin—an opinion in which I am confirmed by some fossils
collected in California by Dr. Heermann, consisting of decidedly Miocene forms; a Mercenaria,
(M. perlaminosa,) Con., scarcely differing from a species of Cumberland county, N. J., (M.
Ducatelii, Con.,) a Cemoria, Pandora, and Cardita of extinct species, closely analogous to
Miocene forms. Iam inclined, also, to refer to this period a very different group from Ocoya
creek, the forms of which you sketched in California, as the specimens were too friable to be
preserved. I do not recognise any recent species among them, nor any contained in an Eocene
deposit. ۱

The rock at San Diego is replete with shells, generally of a small size, and appears to have a
certain paleontological relation to those of Monterey, Carmello, and those in boulder specimens
of Oregon, collected by Townsend and Dana, which I have referred to the Miocene period. Two
Species of San Diego, if not identical, approach Oregon shells; Nucula decisa is similar to N.

1 "MET. EE : ë :
1 M descriptions were published in 1855. See the Appendix to the Preliminary Geological Report, 8wo; Washington,

318 APPENDIX.

divaricata, and both, in their markings, resemble N. cobboldi? of the English Miocene. Mactra
Diegoana is nearly related to the Oregon M. albaria.

The Eocene period is unequivocally represented by the beautifully perfect shells from the
Cañada de las Uvas, which, though not found in situ, are evidently derived from strata occur-
ring on the Pacific slope of the Sierra Nevada. This is very remarkable, inasmuch as three
species correspond with forms of Claiborne, Alabama, and seem to indicate a connexion of the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans during the Eocene period. The vast distance between the two lo-
calities will account for the general distinction of species, and it was, indeed, an unexpected
result to find any identical. If I had imagined any eastern species to occur in California, it
would have been the very one which does occur, and, apparently, in abundance, that “finger-
post'' of the Eocene, Cardita planicosta, a fossil of the Paris basin, and also abundant in Mary-
land, Virginia, and Alabama. This species originated and perished in the Eocene period, and
is so widely distributed that it may be regarded as the most characteristic fossil of its era. As
the boulder from which these shells were derived was quite small, and yet furnished thirteen
species, when it shall be investigated in situ, doubtless a great many other forms will be ob-
tained, and very likely some with which we are already familiar in eastern localities. Although
the rock is a very hard sandstone, the shells may be exposed in great perfection by careful
management, and we look forward with great interest to their further development, and to the
discovery of the rock in situ.

- Respectfully, yours, &c.,
T. A. CONRAD.
Wo. P. Tn Geologist 9 the United. States

Pacific Railroad Survey in California.

CATALOGUE.
I. EOCENE.
MERERETUR A
No Name. Locality.
ES
1 | Cardium linteum, (nova species.) Con Cafiada de las Haaa
2 | Dosinia alta, (nov. sp.) Con ی ی‎ IN
3 | Meretrix Uvasana, (nov. sp.) Con "WM NC EO E
4 Californiana, (nov. sp.) Con a
5 | Crassatella Uvasana, (nov. sp.) Con ۷ 305 Loo a re e aiite"
6 | ————alta, Con ۳ y u E a
7 | Mytilus humerus, (nov. sp.) Con ۶ ld dob idein sa t
8 | Cardita planicost FRI NAME NAME
9 | Natica cetites. Con ducc et dali ie an
10 gibbosa. Lea ie og doe pate IE S E
11 نت‎ oe are E RAAE T cee
12 | Turritella Uvasana, (nov sp.) Con dcl o cs ME I ee
13 | Volutatithes Californiana, (nov. sp.) Con 人
14 ger Blakei, (nov. sp.) Con
15 Clavatula Californica, (nov. sp.) Con

CATALOGUE—Continued.

319

II. MIOCENE AND RECENT FORMATIONS.

No Name. Locality.
16 | Cardium modestum, (nov. sp.) Con San Diego

17 | Nucula decisa, (nov. sp) Con do

18 | Corbula Diegoana, (nov. sp.) Con do

19 | Meretrix uniomeris, (nov. sp.) Con Monterey county
20 —— decisa, (nov. sp.) Con Ocoya creek

21 Tularena, (nov. sp) Con Tulare valley

22 | Tellina Diegoana, (nov. sp.) Con San Diego

23 congesta, (nov. sp.) Con Monterey, Carmello, and San Diego...
24 Pedroana, (nov. sp.) Con

25 | Arca microdonta, (nov. sp.) Con Tulare valley ?

26 di San Pedro

27 | Saxicava abrupta, (nov. sp.) Con do

28 | Petricola Pedroana, (nov. sp.) Con do

29 | Schizothoerus Nutalli, (nov. sp.) Con do

30 | Lutraria Traskei, (nov. sp.) Con Carmello

31 | Mactra Diegoana, (nov. sp.) Con San Diego

32 | Modiola contracta, (nov. sp.) Con Monterey county
33 | Mytilus Pedroanus. (nov. sp.) Con edro

34 | Pecten Deserti, (nov. sp.) Con Colorado اه سم ات افو‎ ICS
35 | Anomia subcostata, (nov. sp.) Con do

36 | Ostrea vespertina, (nov. sp.) Con „do

37 一 Heermanni, (nov. sp.) Con. do

38 | Penitella spelea, (nov. sp.) Con San Pedro, (recent.)
39 | Fissurella crenulata. Sow do

40 | Crepidula princeps, (nov. sp.) Con Santa Barbara

41 | Narica Diegoana, (nov. sp.) Con San Diego

42 | Trochita Diegoana, (nov. sp.) Con do

43 | Crucibulum spinosum, (nov. sp.) Con do

44 | Nassa interstriata, (nov, sp.) Con San Pedro

45 | —— Pedroana, (nov. sp.) Con do

46 | Strephona Pedroana, (nov. sp.) Con do

‚47 | Littorina Pedroana, (nov. sp.) Con do

48 | Stramonita petrosa, (nov. sp.) Con Tulare valley

49 | Gratelupia mactropsis, (nov. sp.) Con Isthmus of Darien
50 | Meretrix Dariena, (nov. sp.) Con do

51 | Tellina Dariena, (nov. sp) Con do

52 | Natica Ocoyana, (nov. sp.) Con Ocoya or Pose creek
人 geniculata, (nov. sp.) Con do

54 | Bulla Jugularis, (nov. sp.) Con do

55 | Pleurotoma transmontana, (nov. sp.) Con do

e m Ocoyana, (nov. sp.) Con do

57 | Syctopus Ocoyanus, (nov. sp.) Con do

58 | Turritella Ocoyana, (nov. sp.) Con do

59 | Colus arctatus, (nov. sp.) Con do

> Tellina Ocoyana, (nov. sp.) Con do

61 | Pecten Nevadanus, (nov. sp.) Con do

320 | APPENDIX.

CATALOGUE -—Continued.

No. | Name. Locality.
|

62 catilliformis, (nov. sp.) Con Ocoya or Pose creek

63 | Cardium ? Te do

64 | Arca ? do

65 | Solen ? in

66 | Dosinia ? do

7 | Venus ? do

68 | Cytherea decisa? Con do

69 | Ostrea San Fernando

70 | Pecten ? do 1
71 | Turritella biseriata, (nov. sp.?) Con E a Da nee Nom
72 | Trochus ? Benicia

73 | Turritella ? do F
74 | Buccinum interstriatum ? San Pedro 1
75 | Anodonta Californiensis. Lea Colorado desert ;

DESCRIPTIONS OF FOSSIL SHELLS FROM THE EOCENE AND MIOCENE FORMATIONS OF CALIFORNIA.
I. EOCENE.
E .CARDIUM, Lin.

1. C. umwrEUM, Conrad, Pl. II, fig. 1.—Cordate, ventricose subequilateral, with closely
arranged radiating lines, umbonal slope subcarinated ; posterior submargin with closely arran ged
smooth striz, fine, but much larger than those of the disk.

Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas. Allied to C. Nicolleti, Con., but very distinct.

DOSINIA, Scopoli.
2. D. ALTA, Con., Pl. II, fig. 2.—Elevated equilateral? posterior side short; disk with fine
closely arranged concentric lines, becoming large towards the base ; posterior extremity obtuse,
direct.

Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas, with the preceding.

| MERETRIX, Lam. CYTHEREA, Lam. ;

3. M. UVASANA, Con. Pl. II, fig. 3.—Suboval convex, inequilateral, margins rounded ; beaks

distant from anterior margin; disk with concentric, rather distant ribs, which were probably
- M Jaminiform when perfect.

Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas. EIER.

There is but one broken valve of this species, in hard sandstone and with the ribs broken off.

4. M. CALIFORNIANA, Con., Pl. II, fig. 4.—Subcordate, ventricose, inequilateral ; pore
extremity truncated somewhat obliquely inwards; basil margin nearly straight in the middle ;
lunule lanceolate ; anterior extremity acutely rounded.

Locality.—Occurs at the Cañada de las Uvas, with the preceding species. Allied to M.
Poulsoni, Con.

CRASSATELLA, Lam.
5. 0. UVASANA, Con., Pl. II, fig. 5.—Subtriangular, compressed, concentrically suleated above;

r TE TEMPE IT an cn,

APPENDIX. | 321
and having a few slight concentric undulations inferiorly ; ligament slope very oblique, rectili-
near, anterior extremity regularly rounded.

Locality.—Cafiada de las Uvas, with the preceding species.

6. c. ALTA, 0 nrad.—This species occurs in the same rock with the preceding, but only in
small fragments. It appears to have been abundant, as it likewise is at Claiborne, Alabama.
The fracture has resulted from breaking the rock, as the shell appears to have been perfect and
not water-worn.

MYTILUS, Lin.

7. M. HUMERUS, Con., Pl. II, fig. 10.—Ovate, ventricose, summit acute; anterior margin reo-
tilinear; basal margin rounded; anterior extremity less obtuse; disk with minute radiating
lines.

Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas, with the preceding fossils.

CARDITA, Brug.

8. c. PLANICOSTA, Pl. II, fig. 6.—Obliquely cordate; ribs about 22, broad and flattened,
separated by a narrow groove which becomes obsolete towards the base; ribs on the posterior
slope narrow, indistinct, and crossed by numerous profound wrinkles. Lunule small, cordate,
profoundly impressed ; inner margine crenate.

Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas, with the preceding fossils. Venericardia planicosta Lam.
An. Sans Vert. (Desh. ed.) vol. vi., p, 381.

This common species occurs much larger, though less perfect, than the one represented. This
shell occurs abundantly in the Eocene strata of Maryland, Virginia and Alabama, and is quite
as characteristic of the American as of the European Eocene period. I discovered it in Mary-
land in 1829, and at that time regarded it as the first indication of the occurrence of deposits in
the United States synchronous with those of the London clay. Prof. Rogers has since named
this shell Venericardia ascia.

NATICA, Adamson.

3. N. ermes? Con., Pl. II, fig. 7.

Locality.— Caiiada de las Uvas, with the preeeding fossils.

N. etites., Conrad.—Foss. shells of Tert. Form. October, 1833.

10. N. GIBBOSA and SEMILUNATA, Lea. Cont. to Geol. December, 1833.—There is but one specimen
of this shell, which I refer with doubt to a Claiborne species. The outline is similar to that of
the latter, but the aperture is concealed in the rock, which prevents the necessary comparison to
determine the identity or the difference.

11. ۰ ALVEATA, Con., Pl. II, fig. 8 and 8a.—Volutions 5, flattened above, carinated on the
angle, a few minute obsolete lines revolve on the upper side of the whorls; aperture inclining
to an obovate form; umbilicas small.

Locality..—Cañada de las Uvas.

This species is remarkable for its truncated whorls, which are channelled by the carina on the
margin. There are no analogous species in the Eocene of the Atlantic slope.

TURRITELLA, Lam,

12. T. UVASANA , Con., Pl. II, fig. 12.—Subulate, whorls with the sides straight and oblique
above, rounded below, and having large revolving strie with intermediate minute lines; stris
near the suture on the upper part of the whorls finer than the prominent lines below.

41 ۳

322 nn

Locality.—Occurs with the preceding, in Cañada de las Uvas.
This species is allied to T. obruta, Conrad, (T. lineata, Lea.,) but that Claiborne shell differs
in having fewer revolving lines, and in being indented at the suture.

VOLUTATITHES, Swains.

13. v. CALIFORNIANA, Con., Pl. II, fig. 9.—Resembles V. Sayana, Con,, but smaller, having
numeraus rounded tubercles instead of the comparatively few spiniform ones of the latter. The
tubercles are somewhat oblique ; base with rather distant impressed lines.

Locality. —Cafiada de las Uvas, with the preceding.

BUSYCON?

14. ».? BLAKEI, Con., Pl. II, fig. 13.—Fusiform, body whorl bicarinated ; shoulder pro-
foundly tuberculated ; tubercles acute, transversely compressed ; lower angle distant, entire.
Surface covered with rather fine unequal or alternated wrinkled lines ; upper side of the whorls
flattened and sloping ; whorls of the spire angulated and tuberculated in the middle.

Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas, with the preceding.

The beak of this shell being broken, its form and length are uncertain, and the aperture being
. eoncealed in the rock, the generic character can only be inferred from the contour of the shell.
This corresponds with Busycon, except in the biangular form of the body whorl, in which
respect it differs from any undoubted species that I have seen.

CLAVATULA? Swains.
15. c.? CALIFORNICA, Con., Pl. II, fig. 11.—Fusiform ; spire conical, volutions rounded, some-
what flattened above; body who ventricose; beak short and narrow.
Locality.—Cañada de las Uvas, with the bei Allied to C. proruta, Con., of the Clai-
| borne Eocene, but proportionably narrower.

II. FOSSILS OF THE MIOCENE AND RECENT FORMATIONS OF CALIFORNIA.
: CARDIUM, Lin.

16. c. mopesrum, Con., Pl. IH, fig. 15.— Very small; ribs about 22, narrow; concentric
wrinkled lines on the disk; posterior margin direct, truncated; umbonal slope angular; liga-
ment margin parallel with the basal, and forming nearly a right angle with the posterior
margin,

Locality.—San Diego Mission.

NUCULA, Lam.

17. x. pEcrsA, Con., Pl. III, fig 19.—Suboval or sub-rhomboidal, posterior margin obliquely
truncated ; disk with ae stria.

Locality.—San Diego, with the preceding.

This species resembles, in its divaricating striee, N. divaricata, of the Oregon Miocene ;
the lines are proportionally larger, and the shell is smaller and different in outline.

but

CORBULA.

18. c. DIEGOANA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 16.— Triangular, ventricose, inequilateral, nr
subangulated ; anterior margin very oblique, rectilinear ; posterior margin forming with

TUM ۰ ۰. ۰۰۳۳ M IN OPERE pe come

es

‘APPENDIX, 323

ligament margin a slightly curved line, about equal in obliquity to the anterior margin ; basal
margin profoundly and nearly equally or regularly rounded.
Locality.—Mission of San Diego.
MERETRIX, Lam.

19. M. UNIOMERIS, Con., Pl. III, fig. 20.—Ovate, very inequilateral, convex; posterior side
cuneiform ; ligament margin very oblique, rectilinear; posterior extremity truncated, direct ;
beak distant from anterior margin.

Locality.—Monterey county, 18 miles south of Trés Piños, in sandstone.

. 20. M. DECISA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 27.—Subquadrate, convex, very inequilateral; ligament
slope very oblique, nearly straight; posterior extremity truncated ; cardinal and lateral teeth
robust, [Cast.] |

Locality.—Ocoya creek, in friable ferruginous coarse sandstone. [For the associate fossils,
see plates vii, viii, and ix.

21. M. TULARANA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 22 and 22a.—Suboval or subtriangular, inequilateral
convex anteriorly ; compressed and cuneiform posteriorly, anterior extremity acutely rounded
and as nearly in a line with the beak as the base; basal margin tumid medially ; posterior ex-
tremity subtruncated.

Locality.—Tulare valley.

[Nore.—This specimen is a clay cast, and was found in a boulder that had been washed down
from the hills at the head of the Tulare valley, about twenty miles west of the Cañada de las
Uvas. ' WB. Bi

TELLINA, Lin.

22. T. DIEGOANA, Con., Pl. IH, fig. 28.—Ovate-eliptical, compressed, inequilateral, concen-
trically striated. Slope carinated; posterior extremity suddenly produced or rostrated, and
below the posterior basal margin.

Locality.—San Diégo, in sandstone. 1

23. T. coxazsTA, Con., Pl. III., fig. 14, 18, 21, and 21a.—Subtriangular, ventricose, inequi-
lateral; anterior margin obliquely truncated ; anterior basal margin sub-rectilinear, oblique,
extremity angulated, much above the line of the base; posterior margin and posterior basal |
margin regularly rounded.

Localities.—Monterey ; Mission of San Diégo ; Carmello.

This interesting species is very abundant at Monterey, in indurated drab-colored clay. There
is merely a chalky trace of the shell remaining. It occurs in a somewhat similar rock at Car-
mello, and in sandstone at San Diógo. Figure 14 is from San Diego; 21 and 21a from Mon-
terey ; and 18 from Carmello. : P

24. T. PEDROANA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 17.—Subtriangular, inequilateral, compressed ; anterior
dorsal margin oblique, rectilinear ; anterior extremity truncated, posterior margin regularly
rounded, basal margin subrectilinear.

Locality —San Pedro. Recent formation.

A thin smooth species, of which only one valve was obtained.

ARCA, Lin.

25. A. MICRODONTA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 29.—Rhomboidal, ventricose, thick in substance; an-

terior side very short; umbonal slope rounded. Ribs 25, prominent, narrow, wider posteriorly,

-

824 APPENDIX.

except on the posterior slope, where they are small and not prominent, about five in number.
Cardinal teeth small, numerous, closely arranged, larger towards the extremities. Inner mar-
gin profoundly dentate; dorsal area rather wide and marked with about six impressed lines ;
beaks distant.

Locality.—Tulare valley? Miocene.

There is but one valve in the collection, and it has some resemblance to A. arata, Say, of the
Maryland Miocene. The locality is given by Mr. Blake with a mark of doubt.

TAPES.

26. T. DIVERSUM, Sow., Pl. III, fig. 31, 31a and 31 b.—Obtusely cval or suborbiculary ventri-
cose, inequilateral; disk with numerous radiating prominent strie or ribs, and concentric
wrinkled lines, which are profound anteriorly; posterior margin nearly direct, obtusely rounded
or subtruncated ; inner margin with small crenulations ; ligament plate broad and profoundly
indented. /

Locality.—San Pedro, in calcareous marl. Recent formation.

SAXICAVA, Fleur de Bell.

27. 8. ABRUPTA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 25 and 25a.—Suboval, ventricose, inequilateral ; concen-
trically wrinkled ; anterior margin obtusely rounded obliquely inwards ; posterior extremity
truncated, direct, dorsal and basal margin nearly parallel.

Locality.—San Pedro. Recent formation.

PETRICOLA, Lam.

28. P. PEDROANA, Con., Pl. III, fig. 24.—Elliptical, profoundly inequilateral, compressed,
undulated concentrically, and with very minute closely-arranged radiating lines.

Locality.—Occurs with the preceding shell. Recent formation.

One broken valve of this species occurred in the same specimen of rock in which they had
bored. Some specimens of the Saxicava are entire, and fill the cavities they have formed, when
living.

SCHIZOTHCERUS, Conrad

. 29. 8. NUTTALLI, Con., Pl. IV, fig. 33 and 33a.— Ovate, ventricose, gaping widely posteriorly ;
moderately thick in substance; anterior side short, abruptly rounded at the extremity ; posterior
side elongated, extremely truncated ; dorsal line slightly concave ; umbo not prominent ; basal
margin profoundly rounded ; hinge-plate broad, cartilage pit large, obliquely ovate, profound ;
cardinal teeth in the left valve two, one in the right valve; anterior cardinal plate broad, with
an angular depression throughout its entire length, posterior one narrow, with a deep angular

channel in which is a bifid plate in the right valve; cavity of shell and umbo profound.

Locality.—San Pedro is calcareous marl. Recent formation. ;

I have referred this shell to the same genus in which I placed Lutraria Nuttalli of the Cali-
fornia coast. The hinge is very similar to that of Zutraria, but the long deep channels of the
hinge are similar to those of L. Nuttalli, the animal of which differs from that of Lutraria. 1
do not know of any recent species of the latter genus in California.

LUTRARIA? Lam.
30. L. TRASKEI, Con., Pl. III, fig. 23.—Suboval, ventricose, inequilateral, hinge and basal

margin nearly parellel; posterior margin subtruncated and shightly oblique, or approaching 2
direct outline; posterior extremity rounded.

APPENDIX. E 325

Locality.—Carmello. Miocene? [Received from John B. Trask, by whom it was collected.—
PB]

MACTRA, Lin.

31. M. DIEGOANA, Con., Pl. V, fig. 45.— Triangular ventricose, inequilateral, anterior side
oblique, rectilinear ; umbonal slope carinated and nearly terminal; basal margin profoundly and
regularly rounded. 1

Locality.—San Diego. Miocene? i

This species is nearly allied to M. albaria of the Oregon Miocene, which probably belongs to
the same rock as the present species. The concentric ridges represented in the figure are caused
by weathering, as the disk was originally smooth.

MODIOLA, Lam.

32. M. CONTRACTA, Con., P1. V, fig. 35.—Elongated, narrowed, anteriorly, contracted sub-
medially ; basal margin widely contracted ; disk with numerous minute radiating lines.

Locality. —Monterey Co., 16 miles S. of Trés Pinos. Recent formation.

A portionof the shell remains, showing traces of fine radiating lines. Miocene?

MYTILUS, Lin.

33. M. PEDROANUS, Con., Pl. V, fig. 40.—Oblong-subovate, ventricose, dorsal line ungulated
medially, angle rounded; beak projecting slightly beyond the basal margin; posterior ex-
tremity rounded ; basal margin rectilinear.

Locality.—San Pedro. Recent formation.

P CTEN, Lin. ۱

34. P. DESERTI, Con.) Pl. V, fig. 41.—Suborbicular, both valves convex; ribs about 23,
rounded, somewhat flattened toward the base, about as wide as the interstices, and the valve
more convex than the opposite one; ears equal in the upper valve; left ear of lower valve ex-
tended downwards and very obliquely striated ; cartilage pit profound ; a submarginal channel
parallel with the upper margin.

Locality.— Carrizo creek, Colorado desert. Miocene.

1 AOMA, in.
3 35. A. SUBCOSTATA, Con., Pl. V, fig. 34.—Obtusely ovate, thick in substance, umbo of larger
: valve ventricose, hinge thickened ; surface of this value obtusely undulated, concentrically and
marked with waved, wrinkled, very irregular interrupted ribs, not much raised except toward
the base, where they are larger and somewhat tuberculiform, upper valve entire, or with obso-
lete radii toward the base.
Locality. — Carrizo creek, Colorado desert. Miocene.
Allied to A. Rufini of the Virginia Miocene, but thicker, less expanded, and with the radii
more numerous and more rib-like.
OSTREA, Lin.
36. o. VESPERTINA, Con., Pl. V, figs. 36. 37, 38.—O vate, subfaleate, lower valve plicated or
ribbed more or less profoundly ; hinge long and wide, sharp and somewhat pointed ; ligament
3 cavity wide, profound, minutely wrinkled; margins abrupt; cavity not very deep ; muscular
lmpression large, impressed ; upper valve flat, irregular, plicated on the margin; a submarginal
furrow, slightly impressed, crenulated towards the hinge.
Locality.—Carrizo creek. Miocene.

326 APPENDIX.

O. vespertina. Con. Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc., new series, vol. 2, part 4, p. 300.

This species is very similar in form and plications to O. subfalcata, Con., of the Virginia
Miocene. e

37. o. HEERMANNI, Con. Acad. Nat. Sc., Philadelphia, Pl. , figs. .— Very irregular in form,
ovate and often dilated ; lower valve shallow ; exterior very irregular, with large distant angu-
lar radiating ribs, and with pits and irregular cavities; cartilage pit broad and oblique; upper
valve flat or concave, with a profoundly irregular surface. Length 53 inches, height 6} inches.!

Locality.—Carrizo creek, Colorado desert. Dr. Heermann.

This large oyster shell probably belongs to the same deposit which contains O. vespertina and
Anomia subcostata. The surfaces of most specimens have a resemblance to worm-eaten wood,
having been evidently sculptured by some marine animal.?

PENITELLA.

38. P. sPELGA, Pl. V, 43, 43a, 43b.—O vate, ventricose, anteriorly inflated with fine radiating
lines and transverse wrinkles, transverse furrow medial, angular, slightly oblique; posterior
side cruneiform, truncated at the extremity, which is direct, and with prominent, acute,
wrinkled concentric lines; front dorsal margin widely recurved, trisulcate; cardinal plate
broad, sulcated process slender, direct,
` Locality.—San Pedro. Recent formation.

No trace of the coriaceous cup, characteristic of this genus, remains in the collection. It is
widely distinct rom the recent species of the California coast, P. penita, Conrad.

FISSURELLA, Lam.

39. F. CRENULATA, Sow., Pl. V, fig. 44.—Oblong subovate, slightly contracted laterally oppo- -
site the foramen. Shell with numerous radiating conspicuous compressed lines; foramen large,
subovate, not nearly central; inner margin crenulated, thickened basal margin sinous ; inner
margin of foramen broadly callous; cavity profound.

F. crenulata, Sowerby, Tankerville catalogue.

Locality —San Pedro. Recent formation. This is the largest fossil species I have seen.

CREPIDULA, Lam. CRYPTA, Humph.

40. c. PRINCEPS, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 52, 52a.—Oblong, ovate, thick and ponderous, contracted
or compressed superiorly ; upper side or portion of the shell sloping ; back regularly rounded ;
beak prominent, rounded, laterally curved ; apex distant from the margin of the aperture ; dia-
phragm very large, with a very sinuous margin.

Locality.—Santa Barbara. Recent formation. :

This is the largest species that has come under my observation, and is very distinct from any
that has yet been described.

mer NARICA.

41. N. DIEGOANA, Con., Pl. V, fig. 39.—Subglobose, sides flattened; obtuse above.

Locality.—San Diego. Miocene?

Partially embedded in the rock and its form not accurately determined.

' The figures which are given in Plate — are from a smaller and more characteristic specimen than that of which the
dimensions are given by Mr. Conrad. The specimen which is figured is, however, much worn and broken on the edges

? These specimens were picked up by Dr. Heermann in the bed of the creek, and were undoubtedly derived from & wem
of the stratum of shells that I found in situ. X

~

APPENDIX. 327

TROCHITA, Shum.
42. T. DIEGOANA, Con., Pl. V, fig. 42.—Conical ; volutions three, rounded smooth; body
whorl ventricose.
Locality.—Occurs with the preceding. Miocene?

` CRUCIBULUM, Shum.

43. c. SPINOSUM, Con., Pl. V, fig. 46, 46a.—Moderately elevated, suboval, armed with nume-
rous prominent spines in radiating series; spines smaller, and the series more closely arranged
anteriorly; apex sub-central? prominent acute; shell with concentric wrinkles.

Calyptrea spinosa ?—Sowerby.

Locality.—San Diego? Recent on the coast of Peru.

NASSA, Lam.

44. N. INTERSTRIATA, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 49.—Ovate-acute ; whorls 51, rounded, cancellated ;
longitudinal strie nodulous, except towards the base of the body whorl; a deep sulcus behind
the beak, two upper volutions entire; labrum striated within ; spire conical, longer than the
aperture.

Locality.—San Pedro. Recent formation.

The surface of this shell is roughened by a tubercle on the longitudinal, at each intersection
of the revolving lines,

45. N. PEDROANA, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 48.—Subfusiform, smooth ; volutions rounded, spire con-
ical, longer than the aperture, which is elliptical ; columella very regularly concave.

Locality.—Occurs with the preceding. Recent formation.

This small species resembles Nassa lunata, Say, as the preceding approximate N. trivittata,
Say. This is very remarkable, as the two latter are recent shells of the Atlantic coast, asso-
ciated with each other, both in the sea and in the Miocene deposits of Virginia and Maryland.

STREPHONA, Browne. OLIVA, Lam.

46. s. PEDROANA, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 51.—Small, elliptical ; spire conical, about equal in length
to the aperture; base of calumella with a prominent fold,

Locality.—Occurs with the preceding. Recent formation.

À small abundant species, sometimes water-worn, without any prominent cliaracter, except
the fold at the base, which is more conspicuous, considering the size of the shell, than is usual
in the genus.

LITTORINA, ۰

4T. 1. PEDROANA, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 50.—Suboval; spire very short; body whorl abruptly
rounded above; aperture obliquely subovate.

Locality. di with the preceding. Recent formation.

STRAMONITA, Shum. PURPURA, Lam.

48. s. PETROSA, Con. , Pl. VI, fig. 47 and 47a.—Subglobose; whorls four, subangulated ; body
whorl with three es rows of distant tubercles, and flattened at the summit. Spire con-
ica]; penultimate whorl with one series of tubercles.

ity.—Tulare Valley. [Found with Meretriz Tularana, Con., pl. III, fig. 22 and 22a.
th specimens are clay casts, but very perfect.—W. P. B.]

328 APPENDIX.

II. TERTIARY SHELLS OF THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN.
MIOCENE?
Mr. Blake has forwarded me casts of three bivalves. They are forms which are new to me,
and probably Miocene species. The Gratelupia, — in being truncated posteriorly, much
resembles G. Hydeana, Conrad, an Eocene fossil.

GRATELUPIA ? Desmoulins.

49, a.? mactropsis, Con , Pl. VI. fig. 54.— Triangular, ان وم(‎ ; dorsal margins equally
oblique, straight; basal margin rounded anteriorly, lightly curved, posteriorly, posterior ex-
tremity truncated, direct, considerably above the line of the base.

Locality.—Isthmus of Darien.

MERETRIX.

50. M. DARIENA, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 55.—Obtusely and obliquely subovate; ventricose; inequi-
lateral; anterior extremity angulated, and situated much nearer the beak than the base; ante-
rior dorsal line straight and oblique; beak not prominent ; basal and posterior margins pro-
foundly rounded.

Locality.—Occurs with the تفای‎

E | . TELLINA, Lin.

51. T. DARIENA, Con., Pl. VI, fig. 53.—Subtriangular, compressed ; anterior hinge-margin
rectilinear, very oblique, extremity truncated, direct; posterior extremity regularly rounded;
base moderately curved.

Locality.—Occurs with the preceding.

IV. MIOCENE FOSSILS FROM OCOYA CREEK.

The following are descriptions of some of the fossils from Ocoya creek, (Posé creek,) which
occur only as casts. The collection contains many of these casts, but the descriptions are prin-
cipally based upon the drawings made at the locality by Mr. Blake.

NATICA.
52. N. OCOYANA, Con., Pl. VII, fig. 57 and 57a.—Spire CE volutions three or four,”
rounded on the sides, تیاه‎ above; body whorl very wide, depressed.
Locality.—Ocoya creek.
52. N. GENICULATA, Con., Pl. VII, fig. 67.—Globose, volutions y bug above ; spire short,
. conical; body whorl contracted near the summit.
Locality.—Ocoya creek.
Resembles N. alveata, Con., of the California Eocene.
BULLA.
54. B. JUGULARIS, Conrad, Pl. VII, fig. 62, 62a, 62b. .一 Oblong elongated, much contracted
toward the apex ; acutely rounded at the base.
Locality.—Ocoya creek. - ; x
55. P. TRANSMONTANA, Conrad, Pl. VI, fig. 69.—Fusiform, with rugose revolving lines sad

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APPENDIX. . 329

distant short longitudinal undulations on the body whorl; volutions of the spire rounded :
longitudinally undulated.

Locality. —Ocoya creek.

SYCTOPUS.

57. s. OCOYANUS, Conrad, Pl. VII, fig. 72 and 72a.—Spire depressed ; whorls flattened above ;
shoulder sub-angulated, sides somewhat flattened, columella profoundly rounded above and
concave below.

Locality. —Ocoya creck.

- TURRITELLA.

98. T. ocoYANA, Conrad, Pl. VIII, figs. 73, 73a, 73b.—Volutions 13 or 14, straight at the
sides ; rounded at base, and having well marked revolvin g lines, base broad ; volutions suddenly
tapering to the apex.

Locality.—Ocoya creek.

! COLUS.

59. c. ARCTATUS, Conrad, Pl. VIII, fig. 76. —Narrow, fusiform, whorls rounded ; beak very
slender, somewhat sinuous.

Locality. — Ocoya creek, Cal.

TELLINA.

60, T. DEEP: 3 Pl. VIII, fig. 75 and 75a.—Elliptical, iia inequilateral ;
posterior extremity acutely rounded, much above the line of the base; anterior end somewhat
acutely rounded ; cardinal teeth robust.

PECTEN.

61. P. NEvADANUS, Conrad, Pl. VIII, fig 77.—Ovate, flat or slightly concave ; ribs 17? large,
flattened on the back ; interstices strongly wrinkled transversely.

This shell is so much nearly allied to N. Humphreysii of Maryland, that, taken in connexion
with P. catilliformis, Pl. IX, it may be regarded asa Miocene species. The strata in which
they occur may safely be referred to that period.

Locality. ولا‎ creek.

62. p. c ATILLIFORMIS, Conrad, PI. IX, fig. 83. —Orbicular, plano-convex, with radiating stris
and distinct rounded ribs; ears equal.

Locality.—Ocoya creek.

This large Pecten has such a general ۳ 7. Madisonius, Say, of the Virginia
Miocene, that I have no doubt it existed at the same period, or at least after the Eocene. "There
is none such now living on the coast of California, and none in the Eocene, of this group of
large Pectens.. , which occur almost everywhere in the Miocene deposits of the Atlantic slope.

In addition to the above described species, there are many specimens and drawings in which
the specific characters are not preserved with sufficient distinctness for description. Among
these are individuals of the genera Arca, Solen, Dosinia and Venus.

"e

42 F

3
E 4
BER

ARTICLE III.

SPECIES.

BY- AUGUSTUS A. GOULD,

CATALOGUE OF THE RECENT SHELLS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE NEW

M. D.

The collection consists of fresh water shells from the Colorado desert, and other localities, and of land and marine shells

»

*Phasianella compta, Gould

from the coast between San Francisco and San Diego. The new species are indicated by an asterisk.(*).
o. Name. Locality.
1 | Ostrea San Diego... on --er aaa e erre eene :
2 | Pecten monotimeris, Conrad -do Ae ^
3 | Pecten ventricosus, Sowerby, (also Auiidus, Sow.) do. FW :
4 | Mytilus edulis, (1) Bux Pianist. s conie seb ie = ec 3
5 | Modiola capax, Conrad San Diego "e
6 | Venus Nuttallii, Conrad Cue A IMEEM Te E ES |
7 | Venus fluctifraga, Sowerby AE A :
8 | Tapes grata, Say, T. discors., Sowerby, (straminea, Conrad). - VW E OC E ee 3
9 | *Tapes gracilis, Gould. - à du A aero NN
10 | Cyclas, (imperfect) Colorado Desert. ....-....------------7--
11 | Cardium cruentatum, Gould - NR TEN. En Scan rore 4
12 | Lucina orbella, Gould... L 4| San Pedro..--—. 3
13 | Lucina Nuttallii, Conrad / is A q
14 | Mesodesma rubrotincta, (?) Sowerby ‚do... M cuc ld AA ee
15 | Tellina vicina, Adams. lius Die oos e ennt mtr t
16 | Tellina secta, Conrad Pun PUlló... od ار‎ nee
17 | Sphenia Californica, Conrad Gan Diao LA LLLI فان‎ BS
18 | Petricola carditoides, Conrad, (P. LEERE Di ) Monterey— San Pedro----------- ---------
19 | Solecurtus Californiensis, Conrad. San Diego....-- -------+--=--- rm...”
20 | Gnathodon Lecontei, Conrad, e trigonum, Pettit) Colorado Desert.....--------
21 | Lottia scabra, Gould = Lian Wenns. nn nen ee
22 | Lottia patina, Eschscholtz...... kd ^E os di "a PEO
Scurria pallida, Gray, (Lott. mitra, Brod.) sam ^ A N
Calyptrea hispida, Brod San Pedro — San Diego.------------777777
Crepidula incurva, Brod. Meda ee
Bulla nebulosa, Gould Ban: Diego anne chro rette etm
Bulla (Haminea) virescens, Sowerby do ی رن ی‎ OM
“Bulla (Haminea) vesicula, Gould e A ie.
“Bulla (Tornatina) inculta, Gould - do یبن‎ ort ae
Trochus mestus, Jonas CORE ee
do A WR |

3 ۱ APPENDIX. 331

- CATALOGUE -—Continued.

No. = Name. | Locality.

32 | Littorina, (undetermined) : San Diego

33 | Melampus, (undetermined) do

34 | Oliva biplicata, Sowerby San Pedro

35 | *Potamis pullatus, Gould < San Diego....

36 | “Amnicola protea, Gould Colorado Desert

37 | *Amnicola longinqua, Gould do...
38 | *Planorbis ammon, Gould. . - ۱ Colorado Desert — Ocoya Creek
39 | *Physa humerosa, Gould Colorado Desert.......

40 | Succinea, (undet Ocoya Creek

41 | Helix Vancouverensis, Lea San Francisco

42 | Helix San Diegoensis, Lea Point Reyes

43 | Helix infumata, Gould | do

44 | Helix Oregonensis, Lea | Cypress Point

I.—FRESH-WATER SHELLS FROM THE COLORADO DESERT.

PHYSA HUMEROSA, Gould.
[ Proceed. Bost. Soc. Nat. Hist., V. 128. Feb. 1855.]

T. notin, subrhomboidea, polita; spira acuta, anfractibus quinque tabulatis ; ; apertura
3 ad 3 long; idtudinis teste adequans, posticd obtusa ; labro expanso, columella vix Pm 一
Pl. XI, figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5.

Shell rather "P and solid, subrhomboidal, polished ; all the specimens seen, (quite numerous,
‚and apparently not weathered,) porcelain white. Whorls five, each with a broad, square
shoulder, and forming an elevated, acute spire; aperture usually about two-thirds the length
of the shell, sometimes but little-over one-half; posterior angle obtusely rounded ; outer lip
slightly flaring, when viewed in profile it is slightly advanced posteriorly so as to form a recess
at the junction ; ; pillar without any conspicuous fold, thickly covered with enamel, broadly
rounded and expanded at the base. Umbilical region nearly perforate.

‚Length of an ordinary specimen, half an inch ; breadth, three-eighths of an inch; length of `
a variety, seven-tenths of an inch.

Found in the Colorado Desert, by W. P. Blake; also at ups River, by Dr. T. H. Webb.

The broadly tabulated whorls, with the acute, elevated spire and foldless pillar, clearly dis-
tinguish this species. P. tabulata, Gould, from New Zealand, is similar, as well as some
varieties of P. ancillaria, Say, as figured by Haldeman, especially his figure 7, which he desig-
nates as a monstrosity; but the spire is more elevated, and the deep suture always renders the
whorls distinct, and the absence of a columellar fold is a still further distinctive mark, It
would be difficult to distinguish the young by themselves from several other species, though they
begin to show the angularity of the whorls quite early.

PLANORBIS AMMON, Gould.
[ Proceed. Bost. Soc. Nat. Hist., ۲۰129. Mar. 1855.]

T. magna, discoidea, subconica, subtiliter striata ; latere sinistro late et profundé concavo,

332 i APPENDIX.

anfractus quatuor obtusè angulatos exhibente ; latere dextro excavato, anfractus duos cum
dimidio cstendente; apertura ovato-triangularis, interdum utroque valdè expansa.—Pl. XI,
figures 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18.

Shell discoidal, attaining a large size, delicately striated, of a watery-white color; when laid
upon the right side the shell has a remarkable conical or dome-shaped aspect, the extreme
periphery being in a plane with the right side or base, from which the whorl grapually slopes
upwards, terminating at the summit in a broad and deep concavity, exhibiting four well-marked,
obtusely angulated whorls; the right side is decidedly concave, exhibiting two and a half or three
well-rounded volutions. Aperture ovate-triangular, in middle-sized specimens projecting about
equally to either side, in small specimens projecting to the right side only, and in the largest,
spreading amply to both sides, and especially the right, where it expands and forms a remarkable
ear-shaped aperture.

Diameter of the disk, in the middlesized specimens, five-eighths of an inch, and in the
largest, one inch ; axial diameter of the first, one fourth of an inch, of the latter, half an inch ;
and in one specimen the breadth of the aperture, from side to side, is five-eighths of an inch.

Locality.—Found in the Colorado Desert; and also by Dr. Webb.

I have associated specimens differing greatly in size and in developement of the aperture, but
all agreeing in the peculiar slope of the outer volution, giving a conical outline when lying on
the side. The fully developed specimens have the general aspect of P. corpulentus, Say ; but
besides the form of the volution and the consequent shape of the aperture, that shell is more
coarsely striated, the whorls on the right side lie nearly in the same place, and on the left side
but two whorls appear. It differs from P. trivolvis, Say, in nearly the same particulars. In
external surface it is more like P. glabratus, Say.

AMNICOLA PROTEA, Gould.
[ Proceed. Bost. Soc. Nat. Hist., V. 129. Mar. 1855.]

T. parva, elongata, gracilis, variabilis; anfractibus 7-8 convexis, profundé discretis, sim-
plicibus, vel filis volventibus et costis longitudinalibus varia ornatis et clathratis: apertura
ovata; labro continuo, simplici, anfractum penultimum vix attigente. Pl. XI, figures, 6, 7,
8, and 9. ;

Shell small, turreted, slender, greatly elóngated, dhl yew hits, (so far as seen,) variously
proportioned, composed of seven or eight whorls, which are either convexly rounded or broadly
shouldered, and separated by a deep suture—the surface either smooth throughout, or more
frequently sculptured with revolving threads or longitudinal ribs or decussated by both in
various proportions, the upper whorls being in nearly every instance decussated ; aperture ovate,
lip simple, continuous, generally detached from, or scarcely appressed to the penultimate whorl,
in many instances leaving an umbilical chink.

SURE Specimens three-tenths of an inch long and half an inch brosd.

Found in the Colorado Desert; also by Dr. T. H. Webb.

"This species is peculiar on account of its elongated, slender form, and differs from the other
Species of the genus yet described in being variously sculptured with revolving ridges and
longitudinal folds, like many of the Melanie. It varies greatly also in its relative propor tions
of length and breadth. It is as slender as A. attenuata, Haldeman, and much larger. [This
je to » the same shell as that subsequently described by Mr. Conrad, under the name of

APPENDIX. | 333

AMNICOLA LONGINQUA, Gould.
[ Proceed. Bost. Soc. Nat. Hist., V. 130. Mar. 1855.]

T. parva, elongato-ovata, levis, apice obtuso, spire anfractibus quinque rotundatis, suturá
profundä discretis: apertura elliptica, postice rotundata ; columella profundé arcuatá.— Pl. XI,
figures 10, and 11.

Shell small, elongate ovate, horn-colored, (or blanched US surface quite smooth ;
apex obtuse, whorls five, well-rounded and separated by a deep suture. Aperture elliptical,
broadly rounded posteriorly ; lip simple, copiously incrusting the pillar margin, which is pro-
foundly arcuate; umbilical region nearly perforate.

Length one-eighth of an inch, breadth one-tenth of an inch.

Found in the Colorado Desert.

In form it is much like 4. Oíncinnatiensis, Haldeman, or like his A. galbana.

II. MARINE SHELLS FROM THE COAST.

POTAMIS PULLATUS, Gould.
[ Appendix to Prelim. Geol. Report of W. P. Blake, 1855.]

Testa turrita, gracilis, solida, rudis, fusco-cinerea; anfractibus ad decem convexiusculis, plicis
circiter decem convexiusculis arcuatis compressis instructis, et filis ad quinque volventibus cinctis;
tribus ultimis varice munitis: apertura parva, subcircularis, nitide rufo-nigra; basi vix effuso
et contorto; labro expanso. Pl. XI, figures 23, 24.

Shell elongated, turreted, slender, solid, rough, and dusky, composed of ten closely revolving
moderately convex whorls, ornamented with about 16 longitudinal, curved, compressed folds,
and about five revolving threads, which usually form beads where they crown the folds; the
three anterior whorls are fortified with a strong varix, about two-thirds of a volution distant
from each other. Aperture small, nearly circular, slightly produced and enor ion at base, very
dark and glossy liver-brown within; everted.

Length 12 inch, breadth two-fifths of an inch.

Locality.—Brought from San Diego by Dr. Tho. H. Webb and Wm. P. Blake.

This shell is apparently very common, and yet I find no description answering to it. From
P. sacratum, Gould, it may be distinguished by its small and dark-colored aperture, and the
longitudinal folds. It is much like P. iostoma, Pfeiffer, a Cuban MESA Some of. the speci-
mens are very much more slender than others.

PHASIANELLA COMPTA, Gould.
[Preliminary Report, 1855.]

Testa parva, solida, ovato-conica, imperforata, polita, cinerascens, lineis olivaceis tenuissimis
obliqué volventibus ornata : spira acuta ; anfractibus quatuor rotundatis ; ultimo ad peripheriam
obtuse angulato et interdum tessellatim fasciato : apertura circularis ; labro tenui, albo;
columella albá, compressa ; faucibus callo albo incrassatis. ‘Pl. XI, figs. 25, 26.

Shell small, solid, ovate, imperforate, smooth and shining, ashy white, minutely and closely
lineated in an obliquely spiral manner with olive green. Whorls four, well rounded, forming
an acute spire, the outer one obtusely angular at periphery, where there is sometimes a delicate
range of catenated white and olive spots ; aperture nearly circular ; lip very thin, showing the

334 APPENDIX.

lineations on the inner margin; throat coated with bluish white enamel; pillar flattened ‘
white. Operculum patelliform, ivory-like, the outer convex surface marbled black and white;
the inner surface black.

Length one-fourth of an inch ; diameter one-fifth of an inch.

Locality.—Found at San Diego by Mr. Blake, and also by Dr. Webb.

This pretty little shell is usually more or less coated with cretaceous matters, but when cleaned
exhibits a beautifully lineated surface, peculiar on account of the lines running so nearly in the
ordinary direction of revolving strie, The coloration, however, sometimes consists of olive and
white tessellations and blotches. It would accord pretty well with P. perforata, Philippi, did it
not lack the distinguishing mark of that species, its perforation.

BULLA (TORNATINA) INCULTA, Gould.
[Preliminary Report, 1855.]

Testa minuta, solidula, eburnea, elongato-ovalis, longitudinaliter minutissimé striata: spira
elevata; anfractibus quatuor tabulatis: apertura linearis, octantes septem longitudinis teste
adequans, anticé dilatata, posticé rotundata ; labro incurvato ; columellá satis arcuatá, callosa,
uniplicatá. Pl. XI, figures 27, 28..

Shell minute, solid, ivory white, elongated-oval, minutely striated longitudinally ; spire ele-
vated, consisting of about four tabulated whorls. Aperture about seven-eighths the length of
the shell, not attaining the end of the outer whorl, linear, constricted at the middle and some-
what dilated anteriorly, posterior angle rounded ; pillar moderately arcuate, usually pei
a well-marked fold at the anterior fourth, and well coated with enamel.

Length one-eighth ; breadth one-twelfth of an inch.

Locality.—San Diego.

May be best compared with B, fusiformis, A. Adams, and is also very closely allied to 2.
obstricta. Gould. The spire varies much in elevation, sometimes, indeed, being on a level with
the outer whorl. The form of the whole shell is also more or less cylindrical.

BULLA (HAMINEA) VESICULA, Gould.
- . [Preliminary Report, 1855.]

Testa parva, fragilis, ovato-globosa, pallidé citrina, postice truncata: apertura spiram
superans, longitudine duplo adequans, anticé et posticà benê rotundata; columella profunde
arcuatá, vix callosá. Pl. XI, fig. 29.

Shell small, fragile, ovate globose, pale greenish Ee body of the shell small, truncate at
summit; outer whorl large; aperture about twice the length of the body of the shell, and pro-
jecting be it, broadly rounded both posteriorly and anteriorly ; outer Jip inflexed at the
middle; pillar profoundly arcuate, with a narrow delicate callus.

three-tenths ; breadth one-fifth of an inch.‏ ت

Locality.—Brought fea San Diego by Mr. Blake.

. It has about the size and general appearance of B. rotunda, A. Adams, but has not so large
& body, and is more open anteriorly ; in this litter respect it is more like B. Natalensis, a much
shell.
. CARDIUM CRUENTATUM, Gould.
[Preliminary Report, 1855.]
Testa parva, tenuis, transversim rotundato-ovata, ventricosa, inequilateralis, polita, straminea,

m

APPENDIX. 835

ad aream dorsalem posticam rufo tincta, lineis radiantibus crebris vix insculpta; umbonibus-
eminentibus; extremitatibus rotundatis, rufo biradiatis; intus citrina sanguineo conspersa;
margine arguté crenulato. Plate XI, figures 21, 22. i

Shell small, thin, inequilateral, rounded ovate, moderately ventricose, surface smooth and
shining, with very delicate lines-of growth, and numerous, indistinct, radiating striæ, more
distinct posteriorly and near the margin ; anterior end broadly rounded ; posterior end narrowed,
semi-rhomboidal, the dorsal margin rather rapidly declining ; color pale lemon, or straw-color,
somewhat discolored or blotched with rufous, the beaks biradiate with brown, and the posterior
dorsal area brownish ; interior bright lemon-color, beautifully stained with dark liver-brown,
especially near the beaks and posteriorly ; inner margin minutely crenulated. Height and
length five-eighths of an inch ; breadth three-eighths of an inch,

Locality.—Inhabits San Pedro. — Wm. P. Blake.

Compared with C. Elenense, Sowb., it is much less elevated and differently colored, though
the general characters are very closely allied. It is more like C. Mortoni, Con., but is less solid,
inequilateral, less truncate posteriorly and more freely colored within, and the internal margin
in that shell is not crenulated.

TAPES GRACILIS, Gould.
[Preliminary Report, &c., 1855.] »

Testa parva, tenuis, inequilateralis, elongato-ovata, albida, obsoletà fusco radiata, ad aream
dorsalem posticam fuscata, concentricé striolata; extremitatibus rotundatis, extr. antico acutiore ;
intus candida. —Pl. XI, figures 19, 20.

Shell small, thin, transversely elongate-ovate, rather compressed, beaks, at the anterior third,
whitish, with traces of dusky radiations on the disks, and clouded with dusky on the dorsal
areas; surface with very fine concentric lines of growth, coarser at the ends; extremities
rounded, the posterior somewhat obliquely, the anterior narrower and somewhat more acute ;
anterior dorsal area depressed, without any line of demarcation ; interior white.

Length three-fourths of an inch ; height halfan inch; breadth an eighth.

Locality.—Br ought from San Pedro by Mr. Blake.

Belongs to the group with Z. florida and geographica, but is less inequilateral and less angu-
lar than those shells. It may grow much larger than the prosent specimen, and is pretty
certain to vary in coloring.

In addition to the preceding are two or three species left undetermined in consequence of im-
perfect specimens, or because the characters are not sufficiently marked to render their novelty
decisive. The following remarks may be added in regard to some of these :

(1.) MYTILUS EDULIS, or very closely allied. It seems to differ in having the dorsal angle at a 3
greater distance from the beak—the posterior dorsal slope more rapidly declining and more
curved, as in M. hamatus—the interior more spaan y, and the margin more ee deep black,

Locality.—San Francisco.

(2.) osrrza.—A small parasitic Oyster, on twigs, probably of Gorgonia, usually projecting
equally to either side. The form is elliptical, the under valve having a groove for the twig,
with a corresponding eminence in the upper valve; sometimes it adheres by but one edge, and
then assumes an oblique, alate form, like Avicula. Itis quite thin, lineated, radiately orna-
mented with fasicles of brown "e :

Locality.—San Diego.

oyster from San Diego, about two inches long, narrow and moderately widening, -
ghtly sigmoid in form, its margins simple and the extremity somewhat truncate and undulate
or ' dentate, with four or five radiating grooves ; shell compact, upper valve purplish. It occurs
jn clusters intimately grouped, much like the parasitic oysters of Carolina, but more elongate,
less digitate at the end, less cavernous under the beak, and less black within,

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ARTICLE IV.

LETTER FROM PROFESSOR J. W. BAILEY, DESCRIBING THE STRUCTURE OF
THE FOSSIL PLANT FROM POSUNCULA RIVER.

West Pornt, New York, March 22, 1855.

DEAR SIR : I send herewith a sketch of the structure of the fossil plant from the boulder in
the bed of Kern River, west slope of the Sierra Nevada.

The plants, as far as I can make out the structure, are annual shcots of an exogenous struc-
ture, presenting a distinct pith, (p. in the drawings, Plate XII, figs. 1 and 2); medullary rays
(r); a layer of liber (1); and a loose succulent bark (b), having large lacuna (la). In the outer
portion of the wood a series of large vessels, v 1; of smaller, v 2; and of still smaller ones, v 3,
are placed. I could not detect upon these vessels any indications of spiral or dot.

The specimens from the east slope of the Sierra agree in all essential points with the above,
the only difference noticed being the development of a few large vessels surrounded with woody
fibre within the pithy portion. ۱

I cannot venture, with the limited data furnished above, to form any opinion upon the affini-
ties of these plants.

The vertical section, fig. 1, is made up from observations of various splinters from different
parts of the plants which I encased in Canada balsam. The horizontal section, fig. 2, is from
the section made by the lapidary in New York, which I afterwards rubbed down to half the
thickness the lapidary had given. The section thus obtained was as perfect as if from a recent
plant. It showed the shells filled with transparent silica, and in the larger lacun® the arrange-
ment of the silica into small sperical agates was distinctly visible.

Yours, very respectfully,
J. W. BAILEY.

W. P. Brake, Esq., Washington, D. C.

43 F

ARTICLE V.

DESCRIPTION OF THE STRUCTURE OF THE FOSSIL WOOD FROM THE COLO-
RADO DESERT.

Br PROF. GEO. C. SCHAEFFER.

‘There are two distinct specimens of this wood, one marked ‘‘ Pilot Knob; they are, how-
ever, identical in structure when examined under the microscope.

. A slight examination, under a low power, gives a very different idea of the character of these
woods from that obtained by closer examination with high powers, comparing different parts of
the same specimen,

The peculiarity consists in the winding or contorted medullary rays which at times close upon
each other, and again open, to form a wide space. This, however, is an accident, as will pre-
sently be shown, and not directly dependent upon the normal structure. |

Transverse section. — This view shows indistinct annual rings of considerable thickness, 53
being found in five-tenths of an inch. Beside these annual rings, there are found, in some cases,
subordinate rings, showing a partial interruption of growth during one season. The medullary
rays are very much bent, being sometimes folded closely upon themselves. They are formed of
three rows of cells in breadth, but these cells are not in the same horizontal plane; they are
narrow and short, (radially )

The ducts are large, of one kind, generally single, and when double, but seldom compressed
so that their adhering sides become flat, as is the case in many woods. The cavity of the ducis
is filled with dark-brown matter, while the thick walls are lighter in color. Except at or near
the lines dividing the annual rings, the ducts are not arranged in continuously circular lines,
but are interrupted in their order.

The wood cells are rarely to be seen except around the ducts, and where the structure is least
altered they are found arranged in regular rows in both directions; in some cases with thick
walls and narrow cavities, in others in thin walls and larger cavities. Where these cells are
least altered they are also brown in color; the more they are changed the lighter they become ;
and generally at a distance from the ducts they entirely disappear. The space between the
medullary rays is then filled with a transparent siliceous paste, which in some places seems to
show waving lines marking out the boundaries of successive deposits. It will now be easy to
explain the cause of the folds in the medullary rays. The tree, before silification, had partially
decayed, the cells of the rays, the ducts, and the surrounding wood resisted, or rather did not
decay at all, and when pressure was made upon the whole mass the decayed portions gave way,
and the rays bent, but as they did not quite touch each other, owing to the interposed ducts
and unaltered wood, cavities were left in which the amorphous paste was deposited.

The uniformity of this action, and the curious appearance caused by it, at first seems to 1
cate an original difference in the durability of the different parts, but this is not probable.

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APPENDIX. 339

most likely view is, that some preservative matter from without found its way readily through
the ducts, and spread into the surrounding wood, and quite through the cells of the medullary
rays. The brown color deepest in the cavity of the ducts, and fading gradually at a little dis-
tance from them, confirms this view.

Radial section —In this view the medullary rays are seen composed of uniform cells of small
size, closely covering the walls of the ducts where structure cannot be made out. Very few
wood cells can be distinctly seen.

The tangential section shows an end view of the rays, composed of fifteen to twenty and some-
times twenty-five cells, lengthwise, and three in width, as before stated, not in the same hori-
zontal plane. In this view the small size and closeness of the cells bent round the ducts give
at the first glance the appearance of annular or spiral vessels, but a closer examination reveals
the true structure. The wood is, therefore, that of an exogen, and is not coniferous, and must
be comparatively modern.

It is to be regretted that the structure of the ducts could not be clearly made out, but from
the description it can be easily ascertained what it should be.

The presence of wood parenchyma could not be determined. These characters will easily
enable us to determine this wood in specimens less altered, from which the relations to existing
wood can be better determined. There is a close resemblance to a fossil wood from Antigua,
figured in Witham ; this last, however, is unaltered.

EXPLANATION OF THE FIGURES.

Plate XII, Fig. 3.—Transverse section of fossil wood from the Colorado Desert; magnified 100 times
ig. 4. Tangential section ; more highly magnified. The cells of the medullary rays seem to be slightly separated ; but
this results from the view being somewhat iat: the direction of the rays ES: so much that it is difficult to obtain
a section strictly perpendicular more than one series.

ARTICLE VI.

CHEMICAL EXAMINATIONS OF SOILS AND INCRUSTATIONS.

BY J. D.-.EASTER, PH. D.

WASHINGTON, November 14, 1855.
Sır: Enclosed I have the pleasure of transmitting to you the results of my examination of
the specimens of rocks, soils, salts, &c., placed in my hands by you for analysis. I have limited
myself, in regard to the character of the examination, chiefly by the schedule furnished me and
your written instructions. The numbers are those attached to the labels, and are cited in the
order of examination.
I remain, very respectfully, yours,

JOHN D. EASTER,
WM. P. BLAKE,

Geologist U. S. Pacific Railroad Survey.

No. —. Limestone from the Tejon Pass.
Contains a considerable quantity of silica.
Carbonate of lime.
Alumina,
Oxide of iron.

Magnesia, (little.)
Phorphoric acid, (trace.)

No. 146.— Rock from under Basalt, Fort Miller, San Joaquin River.

Soluble in water ; chlorides of—

Soluble in hydrochloric acid—
Alumina.
Oxide of iron ;
Sulphate of lime, (trace.)
Magnesia.
Soda.
Potash, (tracee)

The residue consists of sand and clay.

No. 153.—Dark Bituminous clay.—San Pedro.
Heated in a tube closed at one end it emits a strong bituminous odor and gives a small subli-
. mate of sulphur. Burns in the air to a redish-brown mass.

SS

APPENDIX. 341

No. 155.— Bituminous silica.—San Pedro.

A hard black silicious rock. Heated in a tube closed at one end gave a distillate of bitumen
and water. Fused with soda on charcoal yields a hepar of sulphuret of sodium.

The finely-powdered mineral was fused with carbonic of soda and silica, separated in the
ususl way. The acid solution contained—

Alumina and oxide of iron.
Oxide of manganese trace.
Lime, inconsiderable quantity.
Magnesia.

Sulphuric acid.

Phorphoric acid.

The presence of fluorine could not be detected. The presence of notabie quantities of soda
and potash was detected by Smith's process of fusion with carbonate of lime and sal ammoniw.
The infusorial (animal) origin of the rock is beyond a doubt.

No. 162.—Clay from the bank at the Alamo Well, Colorado Desert.—The aqueous extract con-
tains—

#

Chloride of sodium. Carbonic acid.
Lime, (carbonate.) . Sulphuric acid, (trace.)
Magnesia.

The acid extract contains beside these, alumina and oxide of iron, and a trace of potash.

No. 204.— Limonite, (Mariposa.)—Limonite—a hydrated peroxide of iron, containing traces
of silica, lime, and magnesia. No sulphur.

No. 250.— Travertine, from Pilot Knob.—The finely-powdered and dried mineral was dissolved
in hydrochlorie acid, the insoluble residue of silica separated by evaporation, and afterwards
fused with carbonate of soda, by which a considerable quantity of alumina was separated from
it. The acid solution filtered from the silica was accurately divided by measure into two equal
parts, from one of which sulphuric acid was precipitated by chloride of barium. The other
portion was treated with ammonia, and the precipitated oxides washed by decantation till only
1707 Of the original salts remained in the water. Alumina was then separated by potash, and
precipitated by hydrosulphuret of ammonia. The oxide of iron was ignited together with the
filter on which it was washed, re-dissolved in acid, and a minute residue of silica filtered off.
The solution was neutralized by ammonia, the precipitate of oxide of iron filtered off, and the
filtrate added to the first filtrate from alumina and iron. Lime was precipitated as oxalate
and weighed as carbonate. The filtrate from the lime was evaporated to dryness and ignited,
magnesia removed by caustic baryta, the excess of baryta by sulphuric acid, and the residue of
sulphate of soda ignited and weighed. Carbonic acid was estimated by loss; chloride and
Magnesia were estimated in separate weighed portions. Fluorine was sought for without suc-

cess. The analysis gives as the composition of the mineral—
Silica 9.10
Lime ! 48.08
Carbonic acid 37.63
Magnesia 0.52
Alumina 2.085
Oxide of iron 1.106
da 1.81
Chlorine 0.02
Sulphuric 0.19
Phosphoric acid trace

342 APPENDIX.

No. 253.— Incrustation from the Hot Springs of San Bernardino.—Aqueous extract contains
only a small quantity of chloride of sodium. In hot hydrochloric acid the mass dissolved with
strong effervescence, leaving a residue of silica and alumina. The solution contains—

Lime, (carbonate,) chief constituent. Alumina and oxide of iron, (traces.)
Silica, (soluble in acid.) Phosphoric acid, (trace.)
Magnesia.

A distinct reaction for fluorine was obtained by heating the powdered mineral with fragments
of marble and concentrated sulphuric acid in a dry flask, passing the gas through aq. ammo-
nia, evaporating this solution to dryness, redissolving, filtering, and testing this filtrate evap-
orated to dryness by etching. This specimen deserves a complete quantitative analysis, which
would throw much light on the character of the water of the spring.

No. 254.— Rock impregnated with salts, Mojave River.—A portion digested in boiling water

contained—
Chloride of sodium. Sulph. magnesia.
Chloride of calcium, Nitrate of soda, (a trace.)
Sulphate of lime.

No. 256.—Saline Efflorescence, Kern Lake.—

Carbonate of soda. Traces of—Sulphates lime and magnesia.
Sulphate of soda. Chloride of sodium.

No. 2563.—Saline Efflorescence, Casteca Lake, Cañada de las Uvas.—Soluble in water, con-
tains—
Sulphate of magnesia. Carbonate of lime.
Sulphate of lime. Chloride of sodium.
. No. 258.— Caleareous inerustation, Cascade creek, Tejon.—Digested with hydrochloric acid, it
leaves a considerable residue of sand. The solution contains—

Lime, (carbonate.) Chloride of potassium, (a trace.)
Alumina and oxide of iron. Sulphate of m ia.
Chloride of sodium. Phosphoric acid, (trace.)
No. 259.—Inerustation, Santa Anna R., Oct. 11th.
loride of sodium. Carbonate of soda.
Sulphate of soda. Sulphate of ET (trace.)
No. 260.—Saline mass—Brought by Lieut. Williamson from the mountains.
Chloride of sodium. Sulphate of soda.
Sulphate of lime, (little.) Sulphate of magnesia.
No. 261.—Inerustation on the soil, Cohuilla villages, November 18.—Soluble in water.
Chiefly—Chloride of sodium. Carbonate of lime.
With—Sulphate of soda. ee of magnesia. "
i Sulphate of lime.
No. —.— Incrustation e Soda Lake.—The aqueous solution reacts strongly alkaline.
Contains—
Carbonate of soda. Chloride of sodium.
Carbonate of lime, (little.) Sulphate of magnesia, (traces.)

The mass is easibly fusible. Residue is black and white sand.

No. 262.— Saline crust, Colorado Desert, November 20.—Treated with water it leaves a large
insoluble residue.
The aqueous extract contains—-
Chloride of en
Sulphate of
Sulphate of se (email )

Y MS AR Sa EP GEBE ae i AS
y E 3 A HUE s
۲ CET EI 3

ee ی‎ A
RI Eek

APPENDIX. 343

The residue consists of—
Silica.
Alumina and oxide of iron.
Carbonate of lime.
Carbonate of magnesia.

No. 263.—Soil of Cohuilla Valley, November 18.—According to your instructions I determined |
only the sand, organic matter, lime, and saline soluble matter. The soil contains numerous
small shells, which were not separated for the analysis.

Constituents soluble in water :

Alumina and oxide of iron. Phosphoric acid.
Lime. Sulphuric acid.
Magnesia. Chlorine.

Soda abundant. Organic matter,

Potash abundant.

Soluble in acid:

Silica. Sulphuric acid.

Clay and oxide of iron and magnesia.

Magnesia, (unusually large.) Soda.

Phosphoric acid.
Total amount soluble in water.... 1.58 p. c.
EM nate of lime 16.59

nd

eal organic matter 1.30

No. 264.— Saline soil, near Mojave River.—It effervesces strongly with dilute acid. The

aqueous extract contains—

Chloride of sodium. Sulphate of so
Carbonate of sode. Sulphate of sin del (little.)

No. 265.—Soil from San Bernardino.—A sandy loam, containing 70 per cent. of sand; con-
sisting of angular grains of quartz; much yellow mica; fragments of a dark, undistinguishable
rock ; occasional grains of feldspar, and a notable quantity of magnetic iron. Organic matter
= 3.26 p. c. Qualitative tests indicated the presence of the following substances :

Silica. Potash, (traces.)
Alumina and oxides of iron and magnesia. Chlorine abundant

ime. Sulphuric acid.
Magnesia, (little.) Phosphoric acid.
Soda.

The color of this soil, which seems to possess all the elements of extreme fertility, is a warm
dark-brown.

No. 266.—Sub-soil, Bernardino Valley.—Contains 75.5 of sand, of much the same d تور‎
as the foregoing, except that it contains calcareous particles, effervescing strongly with dilute
acids. It contains—

Silie Sulphurie acid.

Mes and oxide of iron. Phosphoric acid. i
Carbonate of lime, 1.09 p. c. Chloride of sodium abundant.
Magnesia, (very little.) Potash abundant.

CATALOGUE

OF THE

GEOLOGICAL COLLECTION,

WITH

DESCRIPTIONS OF SEVERAL OF THE SPECIMENS.

I GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC.

No Name. Locality.

l| Granite, with hornblende and mica Tejon Pass, at the summit. .-...----------

2 | Compact granite rock, met phic? Tejon Pass, near Station 15.....----------

3 | White crystalline limestone Tejon Pass, east slope--------------------

4 | Metamorphic sandst Tejon Pass, adjoining limestone No. 3..----

1 5 | Limestone with garnets Tejon Pass, near eastern base --.----------

6 | Garnets in limestone A dö E oe Gas

T do dis NT LCT

8 | Syenitic granite IU We ی‎ gee

9 | Granitic rock, with feldspathic veins, underlying basalt A E A eee

10 | Granite July 23 ا‎ ant dhaun EE

۱ 11 | Ferruginous slate, from the walls of the bed of iron ore Near Burns’ creek, Mariposa county, J uly 22.

: 12 | Argillaceous slate, from the outcrop of iron ore do RER ee do----

13 | Quartzite Tola Dg iz...

: 14 | Limestone, red, with white veins dii o oo ی‎ de t ui p ipei en

15 | White limestone, with talc URGERE NOSE Te BEER n

16 | Porphyritic and syenitic granite Punta de los Reyes .----.----------7-*7*7

17 | Granitic rock Near Sacramento valley ----------------""

18 | Granite MERO, A e ea

19 | Granitic rock Near San Amedio Pass, near the vein of anti-
mony ore.

20 | Granite At the vein of antimony ore ----------7777

21 | Micaceous granite A dme xem e

22 | Granite, white and compact Willlameim’a Pass J - neue #2

23 | Graphic syenite d Ne Te o donde EE

24 | Fine-grained granite Vallecito, south side of cañon, November 22.

25 | Gneiss or mica slate ........... Fis Eau میاه‎ Mn

26 | Granite, gray and fine-grained Colorado desert, near Carrizo creek, Nov. 17.

27 | Mica slate, compact and metamorphic San Francisquito Pass, October 14 „nt

28 | Slate, enclosed in granite Near Fort Miller, July 30.----------77777 =

2 San Francisquito Pass------------777777777

Hornblende slate

APPENDIX. i 845

I. GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC—Continued.

No. Name. Locality.
\
30 | Talcose slate San Franeisquito Pass
31 | Serpentinoid rock Near Moore’s creek
32 | Talcose rock, metamorphic August و‎
33 | Talcose rock | do
34 | Limestone, white, with blue veins, metamorphic | Calaveras county
35 | Feldspar | ii e ap
36 | Granitic rock, (green) | do
37 | Talcose slate | Four creeks, August 3
38 | Quartzite, with talcose slate | do do
39 | Picrolite ? | do do
40 , metamorphic rock | Four creeks, August 2
41 | Epidote and quartz | do do
42 Quartzite, metamorphic | do do
43 |. do do s Four creeks, August 4
44 | Magnesian rock, serpentine Four creeks
45 Magnesian rock, metamorphic do
46 | Slate containing Andalusite ? July 22
(464) | Metamorphic rock Mojave river, October 20
(465) | Metamorphic limestone Peninsula Sierra, November 21............

IL. GREENSTONES, PORPHYRIES, VOLCANIC.

47 | Syenite, boulder Merced river
48 | Diorite do
19 | Greenstone, porphyry, boulder do
50 Porphyroid greenstone, boulder do
51 | Basaltic rock, boulder do
na Ioco do do do
53 | Green porphyry with hornblende crystals do
54 | Basaltic lava Fort Miller
BB. Li do do
56 | Vesicular lava do
57 | Basaltic lava do
(463) | Basaltic nodule b do
58 | Red vesicular lava do
59 | Trappean rock ? Near Moore's creek, A, August 4..........
60 | Volcanic rock White creek
BL Lose 0 White creek, August 4
. 62 | Compact trap rock Near Moore's creek
3 ME aoc. do do
64 | Hornblende rock Near Moore's creek, B, August 4-----------
E 65 Metamorphic rock ? ES : Near Moore's creek, C, August 4.....------
3 - 66 | Trap rock Four creeks
67 | Bronzite Mount Diablo
68 | Serpentine San Francisco
69 \-..... do San Francisco, Fort Point
70 | Serpentine with veins New Almaden, San Jose

(406) | Serpentine with chrysotile or amianthus
44 F

346 APPENDIX,
II. GREENSTONES, PORPHYRIES, VOLCANIC— Continued. >
No. Name. Locality.
(407) | Serpentine Wort Pon. ti TS
71 | Trappean rock, ferruginous nucleus Range next to the coast, October 31........
72 | Black pen rt Keb lava Colorado desert, near Carrizo creek ........
73 | Light scorize Tulare valley, near Tulare lakes |
74 | Glassy scoriz, cellular Colorado desert E
75 | Compact red scorie, with small cells do i |
76 | Pumice stone Cohuilla villages :
(466) do de |
77 | Volcanic slag, cinder Colorado desert 1
78 | Volcanic rock Colorado desert, near Carrizo creek, Nov. 21. 1
79 | Epidote, from an igneous vein Fort Yuma, December 7 t
80 | Porphyry, green and compact Colorado desert ;
81 | Black volcanic rock from the drift Colorado desert, November 21 -
III. STRATIFIED ROCKS.
86 | Blue sandstone Yerba Buena island als 4
87 do do i en 1
88 do Marion landa nun. ed E
89 do State's Prim... ana ۱
90 | Blue sandstone, interior of a nodule Beniecla 22i. re aus a :
91 | Argillaceous and slaty sandstone Alcatrass island -....-------------------- i
92 | Cube of brown sandstone Bondi re eee :
93 | Shale, with lignite Yorba Buena lilatd.....:...---.---.--.--- |
94 do AE o Noc Ro
95 | Jaspery rock, with white quartz veins Lime point nun
98 | Jaspery rock, green Near Presidio, San Francisco --------------
9۴ lide) YU, With white quit: A an cee E a miri i
97 | Jaspery rock, with yellow veins Lime point na
99 | Conglomerate - E Le Mora c da tUe
100 | Pebbles from the conglomerate SE Se EEE |
101 | Sandstone Livermore's Pass, west side -------------77 1
102 do Livermore’s Pass -....-------------777777
103 | Argillaceous sandstone Mio cuarto ui Ten hose aci sk
104 | Sandstone containing pumice By EE E N ae a
105 | Pumice stone do و‎ ia
106 | Sandstone Stone house, July 21.------------- 777"
107 do iia DOM E cera T a |
108 | White sandstone, upper stratum July ME ATA LL e
109 | Sandstone, colored red by oxide of iron, containing pebbles of white
quartz cap rock ..- Ts UN E E Asin i SUE o E LT
110 | White sandstone Bear creek, July ;.; تک ند ی زپ سر بر‎ E
111 do do A E A E O is
112 | Red volcanic rock found in the sandstone Nas ی‎
113 | Slate, containing andalusite, found in the sandstone هی مرح بای روت مه‎ MU s
114 | Andalusite slate from the strata of sandstone Chiastolite hill, Chowchillas river, July 23--
115 | Conglomerate formed of chiastolite crystals
116 | Argillaceous sandstone above clay

Re den u یل‎

fand
e
en

162

APPENDIX.

111, STRATIFIED ROCKS—Continued.

Name.

Sandy clay

Clay

Clay from a well 80 feet deep

Sandstone containing casts of fossils, ferrujdnoüBc coc. weinen
Selenite, (gypsum)

347

Locality.

Bank of Tuoloumne river

Terrace at King’s ferry

Lake Tent rancho, July 21

Ocoya creck

Fibrous selenite do
Selenite in narrow plates do
Sandstone with lines of oxide of iron do
do do do
Nodule of oxide of iron do
Calcareous sandstone from the interior of the nodule of oxide of iron do
Sandy strata showing a line of oxide of iron do
Sandstone, gray and friable do
White fine-grained argillaceous sandstone do
Siliceous and argillaceous strata, white do
White sandstone containing nodules, masses of clay do.
Conglomerate of pumice stone and charcoal, with volcanic ash do
Conglomerate of pumice stone and charcoal, with volcanic ash .... Ocoya creek
een do do do do do
Rounded water-worn fragments of pumice stone do
Nodules of clay, from the strata do
Compact arenaceous clay do
Pebbles of greenstone and quartz, from the strata do
Pebbles of porphyry and quartz do
Compact calcareous sandstone from the interior of a nodule do

Coarse-grained siliceous sandstone

Ocoya creek, right bank
do do

Sandstone
Ferruginous sandstone

White calcareous sandstone
White argillaceous rock

Carrizo creek, November 21

Coarse-grained sandstone, hard and met phosed

Coarse gill Ocoya creek

Conglomerate do

Pumice stone masses in: Clay ánd-sand mia n ERE Fort Miller, south side, July 30------------
White siliceous earth, probably pulverized pumice do do

San Francisquito Pass

Los Angeles, October 31
Near Los Angeles

Fine red clay

Clay concretions

Alamo well, Colorado desert
Colorado desert

Bituminous clay San Pedro
I dd 02 نید‎ do

Limestone, compact and gray, from the tertiary strata 2 do

Boulder of bituminous silica, semi-opal do

Boulder of bituminous silica, showing the lines of deposition do

Shale, charged with bitumen in seams and fissures do

Bituminous shale Los Angeles
AUN UNE do Near Los Angeles.-----------------------
Selenite, from the strata Punta Loma, San Diego

Conglomerate of pebbles cemented by carbonate of lime.--------- Pilot knob, desert

APPENDIX.

IIH. STRATIFIED ROCKS—Continued.

No. Name. Locality.
164 | Clay concretions Colorado desert
AGG |. do do
166 | Clay concretions, flat and thin do
167 | Clay concretions, ellipsoidal do
168 | Clay concretions, round, showing lines of stratification do
169 | Sandstone concretion, spherical do
170 | Sandstone concretion, formed of several flattened spheres do
171 | Sandstone concretion do
172 | Sandstone concretion, long flattened cylinder, showing lines of
stratification do
173 | Sandstone concretion, long and elliptical, containing small concre- :
tions of peroxide of iron lorado desert M
. 174 | Cylindrical concretion do TIR
175 | Concretion of peroxide of iron do =
176 | Hollow concretion of peroxide of iron, showing lines of stratification do -
177 | Pebbles of agate, jasper, and carnelian do ۹
178 | Chalcedony Yort Yuma RN
179 | Black polished pebble Desert north of Pilot Knob .......--------
. 180 | Two polished pebbl do do —
181 | Selenite Desert, Carrizo creek.--.-----------------
182 | Sand..... From the Sand-Hills, between Cook's Well
and the Alamo, Colorado desert----------
183 | Sand, from the drift at the deep well Deep Well, Colorado desert .-..-----------
. 184 | Sandstone, pink color Mokelumne Blase aaa ana aa
.185 | White sandstone PR Ea S
.186 | Gray sandstone Bodega Bay--------.=-4#>4==2--- ==ض ت‎
„187 | Argillaceous sandstone, green and soft; fossiliferous Volcano Ridge, California... تچ‎ -----------
188 | Fine clay, from the auriferous drift Georgetown, California. .----------------~
189 | Clay containing volcanic ash and the impression of a leaf, auriferous
drift TS dnm Bd ae e Y a
190 | Red and drab clay, auriferous drift Cement Hill, Georgetown, California. ------
191 | Sandstone, containing casts of tertiary fossils Ocoya Creek, California... ..--.---------777
192 | Rock, containing calcareous polythalamia Monterey ais a اه دا سا‎
193 | Rock perforated by Petricola cylindracea > A te ee
194 | Sandstone | Bay of Panama... .... un
195 do da. deacain ac e RO RE d e ee
(462) do Bay of Panama, near the market ---.------
(463) do x Barbacoas, Isthmus...-------------777777
IV. MINERALS AND ORES.
Sulphuret of antimony Near San Amedio Pass.--------«------77777
Sulphuret of antimony with quartz UN ۲ i rs same xis nn
Vein-stone of the antimony ore, containing sulphuret of iron-....-- Antimony e enasirennenap ninan
| Fragment of a small vein adjoining the vein of antimony ESA OPUS d
Hydrous peroxide of iron Mariposa county--------------- 7”
do do du c ee A Besen
Magnetic iron ore Cañada de las Uvas.------------ 7
| Magnetic iron ore with carbonate of lime do TEN

APPENDIX.

IV. MINERALS AND ORES—Continued.

349

No. Name. Locality.
208 | Magnetic iron with garnets WHERIGO S PRIM non <> ral دس‎ E
209 ? > Between Vallecitos and San Felipe, Nov. 23.
210 | Ferrugmous quariz; auriferous?... cll ni came Mariposa county, July 30
211 do do do do do.

212 | Quartz; auriferous ? Near Howard’s Ferry, Merced river ........
213 | Fragment of a quartz vein ; auriferous ? San Francisquito Pass

214 | Copper ore Great Basin, near Williamson’s Pass........
215 do do do

216 do do do

217 do Williamson's Pass

218 do do

219 |.. do do

220 | Cinnabar Near San José

221 | Carbonate of magnesia in solid masses Tulare Valley, near the Four Creeks ......-
222 | Native gold in quartz Near Grass Valley

223 | Fragment of quartz vein bearing native gold Armagosa, Great Basin?

225 | Ores of arsenic, lead and silver, from A. S. Taylor Alisal, Monterey county
226 | Bitumen Los Angelos
224 |. do do 3
228 | Andalusite in conglomerate Chiastolite Hill, Chowhillas river i ee ai
229 | Gypsum Antimony mine
230 | Chalcedonys and agates Williamson's Pass, Bernadino Sierra... =
231 | Silicified wood Colorado Desert
232 do do
233 |.....-do NC E dd ala
234 |. ^ NB MURDER Ei urs ien Eid er a Colorado Desert, north of Pilot knob.......
235 |-- do a oco eu cat a en ee
230 کب ۳2 تسس تا‎ te سا‎ dpi"

237 | Fragment of fossil tree in sandstone, endogenous?..--.----------- Near Merced river 1
238 | Fragment of fossil tree perforated by Teredo Near Merced river, July 22
239 | Fossil wood lignite, from 80 feet below the surface in drift -------- San Francisco
240 | Fossil wood Placer county
241 |.. do Middle mines, California
242 | Fossil wood, found 60 feet below the surface, presented by A. T.

Langdon Minnesota, northern mines----------------

243 | Fossil wood, charged with iron pyrites, in octahedral crystals . ---- ?

244 | Silicified wood Ocoya Creek .....

245 | Lignite, showing lines of annual growth Bellingham Bay
246 | Lignite or brown coal, showing lines of annual growth ----------- Near San Francisco

(460) | Lignite, found 110 feet below the surface Grass Valley, Randolph Slide.............-

247 | C Oregon .-.---- ee
248 | Bituminous coal Bellingham Bay, W. T
249 | Travertine San Felipe Creek
250 | Travertine, from fissures of the granite Pilot Knob

251 | Calcareous incrustation, containing small fresh-water shells.......- Colorado Desert
252 | Calcareous incrustation, resembling coral -- هس سس‎
253 | Incrustation Hot Springs, San Bernadino.............--

350

APPENDIX.

IV. MINERALS AND ORES—Continued.

No. Name. Locality.
254 | Rock charged with soluble salt Mojave Valley
255 | Soluble salts and effloresences. = = == Hot Springs, San Bernardino ..............
256 | Saline efflorescence Borders of Kern Lake
(459) | Saline crust Casteca Lake, Cañada de las Uvas ----------
251 | Travertine Cascade creek, (Tejon.) Sept. 17 ...........
258 | Saline crust Cascad k, WE
259 | Saline incrustation Santa Anna, San Bernardino, October 11....
260 | Salt, brought in by Lieutenant Williamson August 29
261 | Incrustation on the soil Cohuilla villages, November 18
262 | Saline deposit Colorado desert, November 20 ...........-
263 | Soil Cohuilla Valley, November 18
264 | Soil, containing salts Near Mojave river -
265 | Soil San Bernardino a
266 | Subsoil UM et E AAA ER ES
267 | Stalactites cave in limestone Cato llo cos Denen
268 | Feldspar and quartz, cut by driving sand Colorado desert ----
269 | Feldspar and garnets, cut by driving sand M ok ed ------
V. FOSSILS, SHELLS, AND MISCELLANEOUS.
270 | Impressions of a plant, ligniform Be A ee
271 | Impression of a plant, ligniform G22 Sak ses une
272 | Impression of a plant, in sandstone Navy Point, Benicia ......-.-.-----------
273 | Impressions of leaves, in compact blue slate. --- - ----------- .---- Bellingham Bay, W. T--------------------
274 do do do dos anne ne ee Fo ee een
275 | Fossil leaves in clay, overlying auriferous drift ------------------ Sacramento Valley.-:.--.-----.----------
(404) | Impression of a leaf in clay Mining claim, Georgetown ----------------
218] Cost of SHE In gandstone cs oc 2 lacum cz eU dE ERE CC A ove rrr Snes
277 | Fragment of fossil Pip ne aeg e e ee meee
278 | Concretion in sandstone ---------- Denke = Lco nn
279 | Casts of Turritella یا ون‎ GT E A eA E
280 do disce ITS lend a SEES. ES
281 do xU caeci aec. N Ot E
282 | Fossil crab, in argill k COS ----------------- 7
283 | Infusorial earth ee Eee
284 | Infusorial earth, from the section DES dn Eee T
285 do Ce MN HEN MC eM C
286 do ek ار‎ NNUS do amor dede e
287 do do do Loc dew cash Wem sq ipe
288 do Rl e S bc un Nri SS E E
289 do do Scu do tug E A |
(405) | Infusorial earth San Luis Obispo----------------- 22277777 l
290 | Rock containing Lutraria Traskei and Tellina congesta, Conrad. ده‎ Between Carmello and Monterey. .------7777
291 | Scutella interlineat: Near San Francisco
292 | Scutella in sandstone, under side do
293 | Scutella in sandstone dà
do ; do
Scutella, under side s do
Sandstone, with Scutella and fragments of shells do

APPENDIX. 351

V. FOSSILS, SHELLS, AND MISCELLANEOUS — Continued.

No. Name. E Locality.
297 | Sandstone, with Scutella and fragments of shells Near San Francisco
298 do do do URS do
299 |
300 | Sandstone, with cast of Trochus? Benicia
301 do doi aa r aR do E e
302 | Mass of silicified stems Kern river
. 903 | Casts of fossils in sandstone Volcano ridge
304 do Boss Cl ee dot iM IIR.
305 | Fragments of fossils in conglomerate Volcano ridge, Placer county, 3} miles east of
Beale's bar.
; 306 | Rock containing boring mollusks, Petricola and Saxicava---------- | San Pedro
۱ 307 | Turritella biseriata San Fernando, October 31
308 | Pecten and Natica do do
309 | Fragments of Ostrea and Pecten do do
310 | Cardita planicosta
Crassatella alta, Conrad
Dentalium and other shells Cañada de las Uvas
311 | Mass of shells, containing — à
۱ Dosinia alta, Conrad do
I Cardium linteum, Conrad do
| Natica cetites, Conrad do
: 312 | Meretrix Uvasana, Conrad do
Natica alveata, Conrad —- --do
313 | Crassatella Uvasana, Conrad do
| 314 ? do
315 | Natica alveata, Conrad do
| 316 [......do do do
q 317 | Fragments do
; 318 | Crassatella alta do
Turritella ? do :
319 | Turritella U: i |
320 | Busycon? Blakei, Conrad
321 | Sandstone containing fossils, Tellina & Near Pass of San Amedio. ................
E UON nu id do do do
NEL dues do do do do
. 324 | Sandstone containing fossils and fragments. -........--.-.------- San Diego, near the Mission---------------
325 | Sandstone containing fossils—
Cardita do
Corbula
Axinea.---。。
Nucula
Astarte
326 | Nucula decisa? in sandstone | San Diego
327 | Cardium modestum | do
328 | Mass of shells — |
Ostrea vespertina, Conrad .... -- A OR endeten ne
Pecten Deserti, Conrad | do
329. Ostrea vespertina, Conrad (figured) | do

352

APPENDIX.

V. FOSSILS, SHELLS, AND MISCELLANEOUS Continued.

No. Name. Locality.

330 | Ostrea vespertina, Conrad (figured) Carrizo creek.

331 do asi sd do

332 | Pecten Deserti, upper valve figured do

333 | Pecten Deserti, lower valve figured do

334 | Anomia subcostata, Conrad do

335 | Tellina congesta, Conrad San Diego

336 | Meretrix Tularana, cast South end of Tulare valley

337 do do do

338 | Mytilus Pedroanus, Conrad San Pedro

339 | Tellina Pedroana, Conrad do

340 | Crepidula princeps, Conrad Santa Barbara

341 | Schizothoerus Nuttalli, Conrad San Pedro

342 .|------ do do

343 | Fissurella crenulata dis

344 | Venerupis Pedroana, Conrad à
945 00 بح‎ do do sa
346 | Stramonita petrosa South end of Tulare valley >
347 | Dentalium, cast of do do M
348 | Arca microdonta, Conrad Tulare valley aaa a a o
349 | Meretrix Dariena, Conrad Taig Darle carr rro
350 | Gratelupia mactropsis, Conrad A A pun
351 | Zellina Dariena, Conrad EC a nonu LE
352 | Modiola contracta, Conrad Monterey co., 18 miles south of Trés Pinos. -
353 | Meretrix Uniomeris, Conrad do do.:....------.-
354 Tomales bay....----------------------*7
355 | Parapholas spelea. fan Petite oo ld uis d eor Miei dim
356 | Anodonta Californiensis, Lea Coloredo AS dom nmt mit
357 | Buceinum interstratum, Conrad Han PEO ccce cena PLORA Pe rein
358 | Oliva Pedroensis, Conrad nn in ar e a
四
360 | Crucibulum spinosum Sar Diego -ea 4--
361 | Cast, Actæon Ocoya Creek aa aut nun ruere > nn
362 | Cast As mn ia tele ee d
363 | Cast PREISER ewe os
364 | Cast of Turritella ODOREM ENNIUS UT
365 | Cast of Bulla RN NER EEE SES
366 | Cast of Oliva "ME vehe o
367 | Natica Ocoyana, cast.—See figure BRNO ee
368 | Natica C Gg Ur T RU an.
369 | Arca ee ی‎ E
370 do = In A as
371 | Cast of outside of 370 Ho O A a
372 | Arca A ni dex بو یی‎ et
373 | Pecten catilliformis, Conrad du ln eeu ae eee S
374 | Pecten Nevadanus, cast Fe Eo
375 do Ham en a
376 | Pecten ? cast ds a ی‎ De
377 | Pecten el ci o rade a RM -

? cast

:

APPENDIX, 353 ?
V. FOSSILS, SHELLS, AND MISCELLANEOUS Continued.
No. | Name. Locality.
|
378 | Tellina Ocoyana, cast á Ocoya creek
379 | do
380 | do à do
381 | Oliva cast ۱ do
382 | Colus arctatus, cast | do
383 | Solen ? cast | do
384 | Conus? cast | do
385 ———=, cast `» do
1 386 ———, vast do
: 387 , cast do
388 — hinge and teeth, cast do
389 | Meretrix? cast do
390 |.:...:do do
Seld i san do.. do
۳ do
| 393 | Mactra? cast do
394 | Casts of fragments : do
39 : P
400 l Casts of various species
401 | Pebbles filled with silicified fossils, from the drift Fort Yuma
| 402 | Fragment of a human lower jaw, from a cave Calaveras county
4 403 | Human teeth and a perforated shell, from a cave do
y 404 | Impression of a leaf in clay Mining claim, 80 feet below the surface, |
1 Georgetown |
405 | Infusorial earth. (See after 289) San Luis Obispo
i 406 | Shark's teeth, (Echinorhinus Blakei) Ocoya creek
407 | Shark’s teeth, (Scymnus occidentalis) ; 一 do
408 | Shark’s teeth, (Galeocerdo productus) do :
Y 409 | Shark's teeth, (Prionodon antiquus) do
410 | Shark's teeth, (Hemipristis heteropleurus).-....---------.------- do
E ` 411 | Shark's teeth, (Carcharodon rectus) do
F 112 | Shark's teeth, (Oxyrhina plana) | do
413 | Shark’s teeth, (Oxyrhina tumula) | do
414 | Shark's teeth, (Lamna clavata) MR
415 | Shark's teeth, (Lamna ornata) Benicia
416 | F ragments of teeth of Zygobates : Ocoya creek 2. 11.--...-
SEDE. LEUR San Diego
418 | Pecten latiuaritus, Conrad -do
419 | Pecten (3) ..... do
120 | Mytilus edulis, (1) San Francisco
y 421 | Modiola capax, Conrad San Diego :
; 5 ..| San Pedro
423 | Venus fluctifraga, Sowerby : San Diezo
124 | Tapes grata, Say, T. n Sowerby, (Straminea, Conrad)........ San Pedro
425 | ?Tapes gracilis, Gould : do
426 | Cyclas, (imperfect) -...| Colorado desert
127 | 9Cardium cruentatum, Gould San Diego
428 | Lucina orbella, Gould San Pedro ... t7 1333

45 F

354

APPENDIX.

V. FOSSILS, SHELLS, AND MISCELLANEOUS —Continued.

No. Name. Locality.

429 | Lucina Nuttallii, Conrad San Pedro

430 | Mesodesma rubrotincta, (?) Sowerby do

431 | Tellina vicina, Adams l San Diego

432 | Tellina secta, Conrad San Pedro

433 | Sphenia Californica, Conrad San Diego

434 | Petricola cylindracea, Desh, (P. carditoides, Conrad) Monterey—San Pedro

435 | Solecurtus Californiensis, Conrad San Diego

436 | Gnathodon, Lecontei, Conrad Colorado desert

437 | Lottia scabra, Gould San Francisco

438 | Lottia patina, Eschholtz San Pedro

439 | Lottia mitra, Brod do )

440 | Calyptrea hispida, Brod San Pedro—San Diego

441 | Crepidula incurva, Brod San Pedro

442 | Bulla nebulosa, Gould San Diego

443 | Bulla (Haminea) virescens, Sowerby do

444 | *Bulla (Haminea) vesicula, Gould do -
445 | “Bulla (Tornatina) inculta, Gould A A ی جع‎
446 | Trochus mestus, Jonas do -$
447 | “Phasianella compta, Gould "GC ی ی‎ a ES
448 | Littorina, (undetermined) AAN AAA A A
449 | Melampus, (undetermined) 人
450 | Oliva biplicata，Sowerby on
451 | #Potamis pullatus, Gould San Diego ED AO cien
452 | *Amnicola protea, Gould Colorado desert .....-...--.-.-..--------
453 | ®Amnicola longinqua, Gould do و بل‎ ULL IE
454 | *Planorbis ammon, Gould Colorado desert—Ocoya creek. .....-------
455 | “Physa humerosa, Gould at Colorada dat تفای رطف‎ A
456 | Succinea, (undetermined) Ocoya A ÓN
457 | Serpentine, with thin seams of chrysolite or amianthus............| Near San Francisco ----------------------
458 | Serpentine, from the interior of a globular mass Port Bee Lai toe epit
459 | Saline crust. (See after No. 256) Casteca lake, Cafiada de las Uvas----------
460 | Lignite. (See after No. 246) Grass Valley-..-..----------------777777
461 | Sandstone Barbacoas, (Isthmus)..---------------777
462 Sandstone, (green) Panama, near the market..-----------7777
463 | Nodule of basalt E dios Milla: را رون‎ ono. as
464 | Metamorphic rocl Mojave river, October 20... .... 77"
465 | Limestone, (metamorphic) Peninsula Sierra, November 21.-----------
466 | Pumice stone Colorado desert ----------------- 7

ہے a eel‏ ک2 اج

EA A

APPENDIX, 355

DESCRIPTIONS OF SEVERAL OF THE SPECIMENS.

No. 1. Granite, with hornblende and mica, summit of the Tejon Pass.—This is a hard, com-
pact rock, being a mixture of feldspar and hornblende in nearly equal parts, together with
mica, which is not found in regular, detached crystals, but is disseminated in minute broken
scales, which form films traversing the mass. A very decided structural arrangement of the
minerals is apparent on the slightest inspection. They are all disposed in nearly parallel
planes. The hornblende so far predominates that it imparts its color to the mass, and the
feldspar appears as white disseminated grains. In color, the hornblende is dark-green, and is
found in irregular crystals of various sizes, from a mere point to one-quarter of an inch in
diameter. The mica has a dark bronzy-brown color.

No. 2. Compact granite rock, Tejon Pass, near Station 15.—This rock breaks up. into rhombic
and triangular masses, and is described in detail in chapter XV. The specimen is triangular,
and shows the structure and composition of the whole rock very nearly.

No. 3. White, crystalline limestone, Tejon Pass.—This white limestone has such a beautifully
even grain, and such a brilliant white fracture, that its adaptation to building purposes is at
once apparent. "There are no lines of structure in the specimen, and it is very homogeneous in
its composition. It does not, therefore, present in itself any good evidence of a stratified origin.

No. 4. Metamorphic sandstone, Tejon Pass, adjoining the limestone, (No. 3.) —This specimen
is grayish- white, and, although perfectly compact, has a peculiar granular structure and appear-
ance. It looks like a hard silicious sandstone, but the grains are all closely united, so that they
cannot be detached, and they do not feel sharp and harsh to the touch. When examined by
the magnifying glass, many small transparent or translucent grains of quartz are seen. On
one of the weathered surfaces there are many minute cells or pits, apparently formed by the
decomposition of one of the composing minerals. One of the pits is rectangular, and may
have been occupied by iron-pyrites. A fragment, on being treated with chlorhydric acid,
effervesces slightly. It is probable that this rock is a metamorphosed calcareous sandstone.

No. 5. Limestone, enclosing crystals of garnet—Tejon Pass, eastern base.—The color of this
limestone is not pure white, but is yellowish gray or drab. Its grain is not so even and bril-
liant as that of the limestone found further west, (No. 3.) The mass of the rock also appears
much shattered and broken, and it is traversed with small seams and veins ; the walle af some
of them bein g lined with long crystals of calcite. A large number of brown crystallizations are
also present in the specimen. These crystals are regularly formed rhombic dodecahedrons, and
fuse readily before the blow-pipe flame to a vitreous globule. They are in all probability
garnets ; but they are not sufficiently compact and lustrous to be interesting as specimens.

No. 10. Granite, July 23.—This is a coarse grained rock, consisting of flesh-red mideper and
a dark brown mica, with a little hornblende and quartz. The minerals are dispersed in layers,
but the structure is not very distinct. ;

No. 11. Ferruginous slate— From the walls of the Bed of iron ore, Burns’ creek, July 22.—This
slate is so highly charged with iron, that it may be regarded as an iron ore ; but the distinct
lamellar structure of the slate is preserved. It has the dark brown color of the PETE org
can be distinguished from it on inspection, only by its structure and lower specific gravity.
The next specimen (No. 12) exhibits the slaty character perfectly, breaking into flat slabs and
leaves. It has a bluish-gray, or mouse color, on freshly broken surfaces. Small tty cavities
spread over the surface indicate the former presence of iron pyrites. These cavities are not

356 APPENDIX.

rectangular but spherical, and are not larger than the section of a pin. It is a clay-slate, and
undoubtedly of sedimentary origin. |

No. 13. Quartzite.— Tomales bay.—It is difficult to give a description of this specimen.
Although principally composed of quartz of a light gray color, it has an exceedingly regular
structure like stratification, and this character is given to the mass by the presence of layers of
delicate glassy crystals, the nature of which it is not possible to determine. They may be the
faces of the grains of quartz, but they appear to cleave like feldspar, and when the mass is held
in certain positions they reflect the light in long lines. These reflecting lines are about one-
sixteenth of an inch and parallel. The rock is probably metamorphic. It was presented to me,
with No. 14, by Dr. A. Randall, of Punta de los Reyes.

No. 14. Red Limestone.—Tomales bay.—This limestone has a dark, chocolate red color, and
is irregularly veined with white and dark brown lines. It is compact and capable of taking a
high polish, and may be considered as a beautiful ornamental marble. It occurs in considerable
quantities, but whether large blocks suitable for building can be quarried there had not been
determined when the specimen was procured. Its position on the waters of Tomales bay renders
it.easy of access, and it can be readily transported to San Francisco.

No. 15. White Limestone or Dolomite.—Tomales bay.—This specimen is from the shores of
Tomales bay, on the west side, where the rock occurs in considerable quantity, and is used for
making caustic lime. It is white, coarse-grained ; the crystals large, and showing curved sur-
faces when cleaved. Small, irregular patches and tufts of talc are found in the mass, and this,
with the fact that the crystals have curved faces, leads me to consider the limestone as mag-
nesian—a dolomite; but this has not been determined by analysis. Small scales of graphite are
also disseminated in the mass, It is probably a metamorphic limestone.

No. 16. Porphyritic Granite.—Punta de los Reyes.—This specimen, which was taken from
the quarry, does not show as much hornblende as is-usually found in the rock of that locality,
and the specimen consequently presents a lighter color than the mass of the rock. A distinct

crystal of feldspar, one inch in length, is seen in the mass, and this includes small crystalline

masses of hornblende or magnetic iron, entirely isolated in the spar. A very dark colored mica,
in indistinct scales, is found in the mass. ;

No. 18. Granite— Macao, China.—This is a specimen of the rock which is so extensively used
in San Francisco for buildings. It has a very pleasing pinkish-gray color, and a very even and
desirable texture. Feldspar and quartz are the predominating minerals. Little or no horn-
blende can be seen, but the gray color is produced by the isolated crystals of black mica which
are very compact and small; so compact that the edges greatly resemble cleavage surfaces of
hornblende. | i =

No. 22. White Granite— Williamson’s Pass.—This rock, at first sight, looks like a granular
limestone or sandstone, but on examination the presence of a large amount of white glassy
feldspar is proved by the reflection of light from the cleavage surfaces. Grains of white end
translucent quartz are seen mingled with the spar, and very small fragmentary scales of a white,
silvery mica. The rock is exceedingly compact and homogeneous.

No. 23. Graphic Syenite— Wüliamson’s Pass.—This rock is a mixture of green hornblende
and purplish feldspar; the hornblende being disposed in irregular but angular cry stals, the
fractured or polished surface of the rock presents the appearance of Hebrew or Chinese charac-
ters. 5

No. 30. 16/6086 Slate—San Francisquito Pass.—This slate is light-green and consists chiefly

pisci FÉ و‎ a a eS

APPENDIX. 357

of tale, and closely resembles the talcose slates of the gold region of the Sierra Nevada and
Appalachian chain. Exactly similar slates occur in the Carolinas.

Nos. 31 and 32. Talcose Rocks—Tulare Valley, Aug. 2.—These two specimens are from the
same locality and differ but slightly. They are magnesian and consist of serpentine and talc
traversed by quartz veins. The rock is probably metamorphic.

No. 34. White crystalline Limestone traversed by blue veins—Calaveras Co.—'This is a char-
acteristic specimen of the white limestone—commonly called cave limestone—which forms an
extensive belt on the western flank of the Sierra Nevada. It is compact and has an exceedingly
fine grain, not distinctly crystalline, and is an excellent and durable material for building. It
is regularly veined with blue in long bands and lines which are sometimes oblique, and closely
resemble the lines of deposition in sandy strata. The rock, notwithstanding these veins, ap-
pears to weather very evenly, there being little or no difference in hardness or composition.
Beautiful slabs of marble can be obtained from this material, as its compact texture is favorable
to its taking a high polish, and the blue veins give it an interesting appearance. There are
no indications of fossils or their remains in the specimen, nor were there any found in the rock,
although an extended surface was examined. This is the limestone in which the great cave of
Calaveras Co. is formed. It is in all probability a metamorphic rock, but its geological age
cannot be readily established in the present state of our knowledge of that region.

No. 38. Quartzite with Talcose Slate—Four Creeks.—This specimen is nearly all quartz, but
it appears in contorted layers like a slate. It is, in fact, interstratified to a slight degree with
softer material, probably talcose slate, in which it is found. The weathered surface shows a
succession of regular layers; but the cross-fracture shows a compact, homogeneous mass of
quartz.

No. 39. Picrolite—Four Creeks, Aug. 3.—This specimen is a green, fibrous, or columnar
mass, resembling the picrolite of the southern counties of Pennsylvania. The mass does not
separate into fine silky tibres like asbestos, but is hard and compact. It has an oil-green color
like that of precious serpentine. ' The direction of the fibres is oblique to the side of the
Specimen.

No. 40. Metamorphic [?]— Four Creeks, August 2.—This rock is dark-green and compact, and
resembles a greenstone or trap. It, however, has a laminated structure or slaty stratification,
which, with its association, causes me to refer it to the metamorphic rocks, although from
the specimen alone I should be inclined to consider it eruptive. I am more inclined to this
view, as specimen No. 63, which I marked at the locality as eruptive, has very similar mineral
characters,

Nos. 42 and 43. Quartzite—Four Creeks.— These two specimens have a general and, indeed,
close resemblance. No. 43 exhibits the granular structure of sandstone very clearly, but it is
perfectly hard and compact, all the grains being thoroughly cemented together. No. 42 is still
more thoroughly metamorphosed, and the grains are not so distinctly seen.

No. 46. Slate containing Andalusite—Crossing of the ۵ River.—This slate was taken
from the strata of sandstone and conglomerate on the banks of the Chowhillas, in which it is
very abundant. It is dark-bluish gray—the ordinary “ slate-color ’’—and is charged with small
crystals of andalusite or macie. The quantity of the slate in these strata shows that it must
exist in very considerable quantities on the slope of the Sierra Nevada, in that region.

No. 86. Blue sandstone— Yerba Buena Island, and Francisco Bay.—This is a fair specimen of
the compact blue sandstone of San Francisco and its vicinity, which is so much used for build-

358 APPENDIX.

ings. A full description of the general characters of the rock, as shown at different points, has
already been presented. It much resembles a trappean rock, for which it would readily be mis-
taken, in hand specimens, unless the attention was specially directed to its granular structure.
Specimens from several localities are in the collection, together with masses of the associated
shales and the metamorphosed portions—the prasoid and jaspery rocks.

Table showing the elevation above the sea of the principal places mentioned in the report.

Mount Diable — Diablo Range, (Beckwith)........- 2. i"
Madelin Pass, Sierra Nevada, latitude 409 44' 12" : Seca NAE AU
Plateau of the Sierra Nevada, (Beckwith) fr 5, 440
Second summit of Madelin Pass, (Beckwith) 2 5,596
Noble’s Pass, Sierra Nevada 6,074
Carson Pass, Sierra Nevada, latitude 38° 42’ 15", (Goddard) 1,972
Breccia Pass, near the middle fork of the Stanislaus river, (Goddard) 10, 150
Walker's Pass, Sierra Nevada, latitude 359 39' 5, 306
Humpahyamup Pass, latitude 35° 33' 38* 5,351
Taheechaypah Pass, latitude 35° 07' 28” 4, 008 1
Tejon Pass, latitude 35° 02’ 47” | 5, 364 E
Cañada de las Uvas, latitude 340 54° 40۳ سم‎ 4,315
Cajon de Zenoco — Bernardino Sierra... 4,256 :
San Francisquito, Bernardino Sierra . 9,446
Williamson's, (new Pass,) Bernardino Sierra 3,164 |
Cajon Pass, Bernardino Si 4,676
San Bernardino or San Gorgofio, Peninsula Sierra . . 2,808 :
Warner's Pass — Peninsula Sierra, leading from the Colorado Desert to San Diego - 3,180 |
San Fernando Pass, between San Francisquito Rancho and San Fernando - 1,940
Livermore's Pass, Diablo Range, south of Mount Diablo 686
San Bernardino Mountain, Bernardino Sierra, (elevation undetermined probably) -- 8,500
San Gorgofia Mountain, Peninsula Sierra, (elewation undetermined probably) TR
San Amedio Mountain, at the head of the Tulare Valley, (about) ... . 7,000
Fort Miller, on the San Joaquin river, (about) ; -— 402
Plain of Basaltic lava at Fort Miller na s RE
Ocoya Creek Depot Camp i -- 138
Tops of the tertiary hills at Ocoya Creek, (about) sex + "1,900
Tejon Depot Camp.......... À A RE 1, 447
C ba a 7 RA A A e RN EO Ie ES T E 398 l
Dry Lake, in the Great Basin east of the Tejen Pass ded M
Soda Lake, at the sink of the Mojave river De پو‎ Si T 17
Camp on the Mojave river. SSA TO ES ES GB A من‎ pi quae 2, 664
Lake Elizabeth, near the Pass of Francisquito, (about).........--- cec cec RE a 3, 000
Piste of San Forbando 1. 2: 151. 2450 56 4 4A ی و‎ A XU il LA uL ALL e e em 1,048
Walley of the Santa Anus, at Maik e e al item co Dati dms 1,118
Deep Well, at the margin of the Colorado DA cce eee ee rer a e دم‎ eL Lr non اج‎ m
Valley of the Ancient Lake, Colorado Desert. This depression is estimated below the level of the sea.
WET oiu Dee... ای‎ C Lobo ca sd dpa 70
Fort ons; Arten oF War Olle uni Dekan i ea a Ba ee d 100
San Felipe Valley, Peninsula Sierra PO > a A A eae 2,116
Warner's Valley, or Bancho, near Agua Caliente... a put

1 Mact nf th. A SUR 23s. 4 Ih ۳۹ E woe 4 1 s thea عمط ده‎
۶ PUSE Ui

>

ARTICLE VII.

E

DESCRIPTIONS OF PLANTS COLLECTED ALONG THE ROUTE, BY W. P. BLAKE,
AND AT THE MOUTH OF THE GILA.

BY JOHN TORREY.

Mr. Blake, the geologist of the Expedition commanded by Captain Williamson, having
requested me to examine and report on the plants that he found in his explorations, as well as
those collected near Fort Yuma, by Major Thomas and Lieutenant Du Barry, of the United
States army, I have prepared the following list. The drawings for the illustrations were made
by Mr. E. Dwight Church, a young artist of this city, and the engraving was executed by Mr.
Prestele.

JOHN TORREY.
New York, May 1, 1857.

ARGEMONE Mexicana, Linn. On the Colorado, and in other parts of California. An extremely
hispid white flowered variety, which seems to be the same as A. munita, Durand & Hilg. Pl.
Herm.

Nasturtium OBTUSUM, Nutt. in Torr. & Gray, Fl. 1, p. 74. With the last, in wet places.
Flowers through the summer.

SISYMBRIUM DEFLEXUM, Harv.; Torr. in Bot. Whipp. Rep. Sandy places in the Colorado.
Varies greatly in size. |

DrrHYnzA CALIFORNICA, Harv. in Hook. Lond. Jour. Bot. 4, p. TT. t. 5; Torr. in Bot. Whipp.
Rep. California desert; March.

OLIGOMERIS GLAUCESCENS, Camb.; Gray, Pl. Wright, 2, p. 16. Dry places between the
Colorado and the sea coast; April, June.

SESUVIUM PORTULACASTRUM, Linn.; DO. Prodr. 3, p. 453; Var floribus subsessilibus, Gray, Pl.
Wright, 1, p. 13. Flowers on short pedicels. Stamens about 50. Sandy banks of the Colorado.

了 AGONIA Catrrornica, Benth. Bot. Sulph. p. 10. Near Fort Yuma. This species is, as
Bentham remarks, closely related to F. Chilensis and F. Cretica; but we think it more closely
approaches the former than the latter. (Tab. I.)

Larrea Mexicana, Moricand ; Torr. in Emory's Report, p. 131, t. 0. This is the well known
Creasote-plant or Creasote bush. It grows from four to six feet high. It is very common in the
desert west of the Colorado, and in barren spots on the mountains near that river.

SPRJERALCEA INCANA, Torr. in Gray, Pl. Fendl. p. 23; Gray, Pl. Wright, p. 21. River allu-

360 APPENDIX.

vions on the Colorado; beginning to flower in January. Resembles the original specimens
collected on the Gila by Major Emory.

SIDA HEDERACEA, Torr. in Pl. Fendl. p. 23. River bottoms near Fort Yuma, and west to the
Pacific; August, September.

HIBISCUS DENUDATUS, Benth. Bot. Sulph. p. 7, t. 3. California desert, January, May.

Darra EmorY1, Gray, Pl. Thurb. p. 315. Sandy soils on the Colorado and Gila. This and
the following species, viz: D. spinosa, Gray; D. scoparia, Gray; D. frutescens, Gray; D.
arborescens, Torr.; D. Fremontii, Torr.; and D. Schottii, n. sp., form a peculiar group, inter-
mediate between Dalea and Psoralea, distinguished from the former by the truly papilionaceous
corolla, and by all the petals being inserted at the base of the calyx ; from the latter, (at
least the North American species,) in habit, in the monadelphous stamens, the upper part
of the filaments being distinct, and in other characters. Other remarks on this group will bo
made in the botany of the Mexiean Boundary Survey. (Tab. II.)

Darra mous, Benth. Pl. Hartw. p. 306. With the last; a smaller plant than the New
Mexican variety. /

CERCIDIUM FLORIDUM, Benth. Mss.; Gray, Pl. Wright, p. 58, (adnot.) On the Colorado, and
in the desert west. Itis called Palo verde by the Mexicans, and @reen Acacia by the Ameri-
cans. It sometimes attains the height of 30 feet. (Tab. III.)

LUPINUS SPARSIFLORUS, Benth. Pl. Hartw. p.303. On the Colorado. Less hairy than the
plant described by Bentham.

STROMBOCARPA PUBESCENS, Gray, Pl. Wright, 1, p. 60. Prosopis (Strombocarpa) pubescens,
Benth. in Lond. Jour. Bot. 5, p. 82. This is the well known Screw-bean of travellers in New
Mexico and California. It occurs from the Rio Grande to the western slope of the Cordilleras
of California. The pods are an important article of food to the Mexicans and Indians, and are
also greedily eaten by cattle. (Tab. IV.)

OPUNTIA TESSELLATA, Engelm. Syn. Cact. p. 53, & in Cact. Whippl. Pacif. Railroad Surv.
1. 21. Desert west of the Colorado. A remarkable species; weil described and figured by
Engelmann.

MAMMILLARIA PHELLOSPERMA, Engel. Cact. Mex. Bound. p. 6, t. T. Common on the Colorado.

MENTZELIA ALBICAULIS, Torr. & Gray, Fl. l, p. 534. Sandy soils; from the Gila to San
Diego; beginning to flower when scarcely an inch high.

MENTZELIA PUMILA, Nutt. in Torr. & Gray, Fl. 1,c. On the Colorado; beginning to flower
in March. This agrees with Nuttall's original specimens, and with others collected in Califor-
nia by Frémont.

(ExorHERA (CHYLISMIA) CLAVAFORMIS, Torr. de Frem. in Frem. 2d Hep. p.314. With the
last. Anthers hairy. We fear that R. brevipes of the Botany of Whipple's Expedition is p state
of this species with considerably larger flowers and short pedicels. Intermediate specimens
seem to connect them. We have a remarkable variety, collected by Frémont in 1849, (probably
on the Lower Gila,) in which the lamina of the leaf is more than six inches long, deeply pin-
natifid, the segments very unequal and coarsely toothed, the terminal one scarcely larger than
some of the others. 1

CENOTHERA (CHYLISMIA) CARDIOPHYLLA (n. sp.): annua, caule folioso parce ramoso; nues
cordatis repando-dentatis, petiolo nudo ; capsulis elongato-cylindricis subsessilibus v. pedicello

3-4-0 longioribus. Near Fort Yuma. Whole plant, when young, clothed with a soft white
pubescence, most of which disappears with age. Stem 6-12 inches high. Leaves deeply cordate,

号
APPENDIX. 361

about an inch in diameter, acutely repand-toothed ; the petiole usually a little longer than the
lamina, and the lower ones sometimes twice as long. Flowers few, in a loose terminal raceme,
the lower ones often axillary ; upper ones subtended by small foliaceous bracts. Pedicels some-
times very short, but more commonly one-third or one-fourth the length of the ovary. The
free portion of the calyx-tube about one-third the length of the ovary. Petals broadly obovate,
entire, 4 or 5 lines long, at first yellow, but turning rose-color after flowering. Stigma capitate.
Capsule 1 or 14 inch long, and about a line in diameter; acute at the base. Seeds obovate ;
testa membranaceous. This species differs from (E. claveeformis and (E. brevipes in the cordate
leaves and naked petioles. From (E. scapoidea in the leafy stem, the form of the leaves, the
elongated linear capsules, and the shorter pedicels.

AMMANNIA LATIFOLIA, Linn.; Torr. & Gray, Fl. 1, p. 480. On the Lower Colorado. Re-
sembles the eastern plant, except that the style is shorter.

PHORADENDRON CALIFORNICUM, Nutt, in Jour. Acad. Phil. n. ser. 1, p. 185. With the last.

PHORADENDRON FLAVESCENS, var. GLABRIUSCULUM, Engelm. in Gray, Plant. Lindh. 2, p. 212.
On the Mesquite, (Algarobia glandulosa); rarely on Cotton-wood. i

Pectis PAPPOSA, Harv. de Gray, in Gray, Pl. Fendl. p. 62. California desert. It is called
Mansanilla coyote by the Mexicans.

MACHERANTHERA CANESCENS, var. LATIFOLIA, Gray, Pl. Wright, 2, p. 75. Alluvial banks of
the Great Colorado; Sept.-Oct, Stem 1-2 feet high.

PALAFOXIA LINEARIS, Lagasca; DO. Prodr. 5 p. 124. Desert west of the Colorado. Stem 1-2
feet high. Flowers pale purple.

CHENACTIS TENUIFOLIA, Nutt.; Torr. & Gray, Fl. 2, p. 370. Near Fort Yuma. All the
Specimens were small and slender. Leaves mostly simply pinnatifid, the few divisions scarcely
more than half a line wide. Ray and disk-flowers nearly equal. Pappus of 4 nearly equal
ovate-lanceolate acuminate scales.

TRICHOPTILIUM INCISUM, Gray, in Bot. Mex. Bound. ined. Psathyrotes incisa, Gray, Pl. Thurb.
In the Colorado desert, California, where it was first discovered by Mr. Thurber, and afterwards
by Lieut. Du Barry and Mr. Schott. We have received the plant from no other station. (Tab. V.)

TESSARIA BOREALIS, Torr. de Gray, in Emory’s Rep. p. 143; Torr. in Sitgr. Rep. t. 5. Cariso
creek, and in all wet places, from the Colorado to the mountains east of San Diego.

EREMIASTRUM BELLIOIDES, Gray, Plant. Thurb. p. 321. Desert west of the Colorado. Our
Specimens are much more advanced than those collected by Mr. Thurber, but we have nothing
to add to Dr. Gray’s description except what may be derived from our figure. (Tab. VI.)

BAILEYA MULTIRADIATA, Harv. & Gray, Pl. Fendl. p. 106, adnot. Near Fort Yuma. B.
pleniradiata seems to be scarcely distinct. : a

BACCHARIS CARULESCENS, DO. Prodr. p. 402. Banks of the Colorado; mostly in the vicinity
of water-holes, but sometimes in dry places. The plant is often 14 or 15 feet high, and much
branched. The leaves vary from entire to acutely dentate-serrate. fur

BACCHARIS EMORYI, Gray, in Bot. Whipple’s Exped. With the last. Resembles B. angustifolia.

ENCELIA conspersa, Benth. Bot. Sulph. p. 26. With the last.

FRANsERIA HooKERIANA, Nutt. in Torr. & Gray, Fl. 2, p. 294. A common weed on the Lower
Gila, and west to the Pacific.

HywzNocrzA MONOGYRA, Gray. With the last. In some of the specimens fia scales of the
involucres are spirally disposed, showing a tendency to pass into H. Salsola, which we suspect
may prove to be an abnormal state of H. monogyra.

362 APPENDIX.

了 ERITYSE Emory, Torr. & Gray, in Emory's Rep. p. 142. On both sides of the Colorado, and
west to the mountains. The characters seem to be constant. : ۲

AscLEPIAS (OTARIA) SUBULATA, Decaisne in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 571. Inthe desert; not uncommon,
It occurs also in Lower California. This is the species which, in the botany of Whipple's
expedition, we suspected might be A. subulata. We now possess better specimens, with the leaves,
and have scarcely a doubt that it is the species described by Decaisne under that name, notwith-
standing the description does not apply in all respects. The stem is erect, 2-4 feet high, straight,
simple, or sparingly branched above, either smooth and glaucous, or somewhat pubescent. The
leaves are almost filiform, and erect; the lower ones nearly two inches long. Umbels sometimes
solitary, but more commonly several in a terminal panicle, 10-20-flowered ; peduncles 1-2 inches
long, erect; pedicels 6-8 lines long, and like the peduncles, pubescent. Flowers about as large
as in A. variegata. Sepals broadly ovate, acute. Petals (apparently white) ovate-oblong,
rather acute, reflexed. Hoods of the crown twice as long as the nearly sessile gynostegium,
dilated above, slightly toothed at the summit; horn somewhat exserted. Follicles about 43
inches in length, narrowly oblong, acute at the base, much attenuated above, smooth and even.
(Tab. VII.) |

SARCOSTEMMA HETEROPHYLLUM (Engelm. Mss.): volubile, glabrum ; foliis petiolatis inferioribus
lineari-lanceolatis hastatis, superioribus linearibus ; pedunculis glabris elongatis folia superan-
tibus; pedicellis calycibusque pubescentibus ; corolla rotata glabra, margine fimbriata corone
interioris lobis ovato-globosis gynostegii subbreviores. Near Fort Yuma; August-September.
Stem 10-20 feet long. Lower leaves cordate-hastate at the base, 2-3 lines wide, the upper ones
merely obtuse at the base, and 1-14 line wide. Flowers pale purple. This is 1679 of Wright's
New Mexican collection.

LrPPIA NODIFLORA, Michz, Fl. 2, p. 15. Alluvial banks of the Colorado; flowering through
the summer. The leaves vary considerably in form. Some of the specimens show a transition
to L. lanceolata.

Nama BIFLORA, Choisy in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 183; var. sPATHULATA, Torr. in Capt. Parke's
Hep. California Desert; flowering through the summer.

NICOTIANA MULTIFLORA, Nutt. Plant. Gamb.? On the Colorado and in other parts of California;

‘September. We cannot be sure that this is Nuttall's plant. It is about 2 feet high, minutely
pubescent, viscid on the upper part of the stem. The radical leaves are wanting in the speci-
mens; the cauline are 2 inches long, oblong-spatulate entire, clasping and auriculate at the
base. Flowers in a loose panicle; the pedicels 2-4 lines long. Calyx campanulate, the 5-cleft
segments lanceolate and nearly equal. Corolla tubular, with a small, somewhat spreading
border, about 8 lines long, pale dull yellow. Capsule 2-valved, the valves deeply 2-parted. It
seems to belong to the section Rustica of Dunal. à

Puysauıs. Three species were found near Fort Yuma by Major Thomas, but we have laid
them aside until we make an examination of all the North American species of this puzzling
genus. 1

Datura THoMASI (n. sp.): annua, caule erecto (humili); foliis ovatis repandi
dentatis glabriusculis ; floribus brevi-pedicellatis; corolla calyce pentagono acute dentato duplo
longiore; capsula globosa nutante aculeata, aculeis validis pubescentibus. Near Fort Yume;
Sept.-Oct. Stem 12-18 inches high. Flowers nearly one-third smaller than in D. Stramonium-
Corolla white, tinged with purple on the inside, near the summit. Fruit, (without the prickles,)

about an inch in diameter. Seeds blackish, tubereulate-rugose, This appears to be differen

s v. sinuato-

APPENDIX. 363

from any Datura described by Dunal. We have received it only from the Great Colorado.
Specimens collected by Mr. Schott have the spines less thickly set, and the leaves more strongly
toothed.

LYCIUM BARBINODE, Miers, Ill. South Am. Bot. 2 p. 115, t. 68, E. Colorado Desert ; March.

Monavz viscipa, Torr. € Gray, Bot. Whipple’s Rep. With the last. Flowers apparently
sulphur-yellow, speckled towards the base with purple. The prominent palate saccate, purple,
bearded with yellow hairs. Style cylindrical, nearly as long as the stamens; stigma capitate.
The fruit of this remarkable plant is not yet known, but there can now remain little doubt of
its having been rightly placed near Martynia.

PnacELIA CILIATA, Benth. in Trans. Linn. Soc. 17, p. 280. Near Fort Yuma, This species
is to us one of the rarest of the genus.

GILIA LINIFLORA, Benth. l. c. in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 315. San Matio, near San Francisco.

FoUQUIERA sPLENDENS, Engelm. in Wisliz. Mem. N. Mex. p. 98 On the Colorado and Lower
Gila, westward to the mountains. ;

ERITRICHIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (n. sp.): annuum, pilis patulis hispidissimum ; caule e basi ramoso ;
foliis linearibus ; racemis paucifloris ; floribus sessilibus, calyce hispido, sepalis lanceolato-lineari-
bus; corolla hypocraterimorpha (alba) ; nuculis ovatis acutis minutissime granulatis. With the
last. Plant 6-12 inches high, slender, the lower branches often prostrate, hispid with white (or,
on the inflorescence, yellowish) spreading hairs. Leaves an inch or more in length, and scarcely
a line wide. Racemes about half an inch long, the flowers closely approximated. Sepals very
hispid. Corolla white, falling early, less than a line long; segments of the limb obovate,
very obtuse and entire. Stamens with very short filaments, which are inserted near the base
ofthe tube. Nutlets extremely minute, convex, and minutely papillose on the back, acutely
angular on the face, one or more of them often abortive. This species is not rare in Cal-
ifornia, and I think it occurs also in Oregon. There are specimens of it in the herbarium
of the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences, named by Nuttall, ** Myosotis (Aphanisma)
pygmaa," but the plant is evidently an Eritrichium, as that genus is now characterized. The
manuscript specific of Nuttall is changed, because it is not applicable.

了 ECTOCARYA LINEARIS, DO. Prodr. 10, p. 120. Near Fort Yuma. The specimens agree with
Chilian ones in our herbarium.

HELIOTROPIUM Curassavicum, Linn.; DO. Prodr. 9, p. 538. Common in most places where
the soil is saline, from the Colorado to the Pacific.

AcANTHOGONUM RIGIDUM, Torr. Bot. of Whipple's Rep. Near Fort Yuma. The specimens
are in an early state, and enable us to correct and complete the characters of this genus, as
given in the work just quoted. We have also seen a specimen of the plant in a small collection
made by A. B. Gray, Esq., while making the survey of a route for a Southern Pacific Railroad,
near the parallel of 32°. The plant seems never to attain a greater height than about 3 inches ;
beginning to flower immediately above the cotyledons. It is furnished with both radical and
cauline leaves, which are ovate or obovate, half an inch long, mostly obtuse ; the base tapering
to a petiole which is about twice the length of the lamina. Involucres in axillary sessile clus-
ters, subtended by long straight subulate and spine-like divaricate bracts. Involucre always
3-cleft ; the segments very unequal, one of them sometimes much elongated, straight. Perianth
yellow, campan ulate-funnelform, hairy at the summit. Stamens 9, included: filaments inserted
at the upper part of the tube. Ovary oblong, acute at each end, rough on the angles towards
the summit.

364 APPENDIX.

ACANTHOGONUM? CORRUGATUM (n. sp.): caule superne trichotome ramoso ; bracteis brevibus
recurvis ; fasciculis involucrorum pedunculatis; involucri laciniis subfoliaceis subaqualibus
spinescentibus, apice incurvis, tubo cylindrico corrugato. Near Fort Yuma. This species
seems to be almost intermediate between Acanthagonum and Chorizanthe. It has the habit of
the former, with the cylindrical tube and incurvate tips of the involucre of the latter. But the
involucral segments are never more than three, and the filaments are not inserted near the base
of the perianth, as in Chorizanthe, but high up in the tube. Plant only two or three inches
high.

CHORIZANTHE FIMBRIATA, Nutt. Pl. Gamb. in Jour. Acad. Phil. (n. ser.) 1, p, 168; Benth. in
DC. Prodr. 14, pars I, p. 25. California Desert, and on Pacific coast. (Tab. VIII.) "This
belongs to a section of the genus Ptilosepala, by Nuttall. A second species discovered by Dr.
Antisell, in Parke's expedition, near San Felipe, it will be described and figured in the botany
of that expedition, under the name of C. laciniata.

卫 RIOGONUM THOMASIT (n. sp.): annuum foliis radicalibus rosulatis longe petiolatis ovatis supra
pubescentibus subtus albo-lanatis ; scapo trichotome ramosissimo glaberrimo, ramis capillaribus,
involueris longe filiformi-pedunculatis late campanulatis 5-dentatis 8-10-floris, bracteolis cune-
ato-oblongis obtusis, margine longe pilosis, perigoniis basi extus pubescentibus, laciniis exteri-
oribus subpanduriformibus, interioribus lineari-oblongis. Near Fort Yuma. Also found by
Colonel Frémont, probably on the lower part of the Gila, in 1849. Plant about a span high ;
leaves 6-8 lines long ; the petioles varying from half an inch to an inch in length. Branches
of the scape widely spreading. Peduncles 4-8 lines long. Involucres scarcely half a line long,
deeply 5-toothed. Flowers nearly as large as the involucre, glandularly pubescent at the base,
the pedicels articulated close to the perianth. Divisions of the perianth very obtuse; the
exterior cordate at the base and reflected at the sides, a little emarginate; the inner about one
third longer than the exterior ones. Filaments and ovary glabrous. Fruit not seen. Resem-
bles E. trichopodum, but that species has the flowers strongly hairy on every part, acute and
nearly equal segments of the perianth, and narrowly linear bracteoles.

SALICORNIA FRUTICOSA, Linn? Cañada de las Uvas, in saline soils; California. The specimens
are not sufficient for accurate determination ; but the plant appears to be identical with the
common frutescent species.

SCHOBERIA CALCEOLIFORMIS, Mog. in DO. Prodr. 13 ‚pars I, p. 166. With the last. Moquin
states that this plant has been found near New York, which must be a mistake.

EUPHORBIA ALBOMARGINATA, Torr. & Gray, Bot. Pope's Hep. p. 18. Alluvial soils near the
Colorado; September.

EUPHORBIA POLYCARPA, Benth. Bot. Sulph. p. 50. With the last.

EUPHORBIA SETILOBA (Engelm. Mss.): ‘* prostrata, pilis brevibus athe ssepe glanduliferis
tota puberula; foliis minutis e basi vix obliqua subcordata ovatis obtusis ; stipulis minutis
deciduis ; glomerulis lateralibus ; involucris dorso profunde fissis, appendiculis in lacinias 3-4
subulatas divisis; stylis elongatis fere ad basin bifidis, stigmatibus clavellatis divaricatis ;
capsula hispidula ; seminibus ovatis acutatis transverse rugulosis.”? Near Fort Yuma. Stem
3 inches long. Leaves 1 line long, reddish. Appendages of the glands white, very conspicuous,
almost setaceous. There are only about three male flowers in each involucre.

OREODAPHNE CALIFORNICA, Nees, Syst. Laur. p. 463. Martinez, California. In that region
the plant is scarcely a tree, the height being only from 10 to 20 feet. The inhabitants know it
by various names, such as mountain laurel, balm of heaven, spice bush, &c. The

E uh e ior A LRL dl cte‏ ابا

APPENDIX, | 365

are said to use the dried and pulverized leaves as a condiment. The fruit is nearly globose,
about the size of an ordinary plum, and when ripe, (which is about the middle of July,) of a
dark purple color.

Quercus Hixpsrr, Benth. Bot. Sulph. p. 55. Q. longiglanda, Torr. in Frem. Geogr. Mem,
Q. Ransomi, Kellogg, in Proceed. Calif. Acad. Nat. Sc., p. 25? With the next; bearing its
long ripe acorns in October.

QUERCUS CRASSIPOCULA (n. sp. ): foliis perennantibus coriaceis petiolatis oblongis acutis integer-
rimis v. parce acuteque dentatis subtus pubescentibus demum glabris ; fructibus sessilibus, cupula
depresso-hemispherica crassissima, squamis latissimis tomentosis brevi-acuminatis glanda, ovata
glabra. (Tab.IX.) Tejon Pass. This handsome evergreen oak is usually but a middle-sized tree.
It is certainly very near Q. densiflora, Hook. de Arn., of which I have no good acorns for compa-
rison. That species (judging from the figure of Hooker, Ic., t. 380,) has smaller acorns, a thin,
hemispherical cup, and narrow scales. The leaves vary in size and form ; on young shoots they
are often sharply dentate. The cups are sometimes nearly an inch and a half in diameter, and

` extremely thick, with a rounded margin. The scales are broader than long, and have a small,

abrupt point. The lower ones, and sometimes all of them, are more or less thickened and pul-
vinate, so that they give to the cup a tuberculate appearance. Gland often an inch and three-
quarters long, obtuse, only a third or fourth part immersed in the cup.

Quercus AGRIFOLIA, Nee, in Ann. Sc. Nat. 3, p. 371. Q. oxyadenia, Torr. in Sitgr. Rep. t. 17.
Q. acutiglandis, Kellogg, l. c. Bear cañon of the Sierra Nevada. We have elsewhere remarked
how variable are the leaves and acorns of this species. The acorns collected by Mr. Blake were
allelongated, and very acute. The plant generally forms low, scrubby bushes, but is sometimes
twenty feet high.

Quercus Dovarasir, Hook. de Arn. Bot. Beech. p. 371; Hook. Ic. t. 382 and 383. Summit
of Tejon Pass. This belongs to the group that includes Q. alba. .

QUERCUS IMBRICARIA, Miche. Fl. 2, 197 ; Micha. f. Sylv. 1, p. 65, t. 15? Tejon Pass; leaves
only. Without the fruit we cannot determine the species with certainty, but the leaves so
strongly resemble those of the Laurel-oak, that we would have little doubt as to the identification

had the Q. imbricaria ever been found before west of the Rocky Mountains. The late Papiers |

Gunnison collected it on the headwaters of the Arkansas.

POPULUS MONOLIFERA, Ait. Kew. ed. 1, 3, p. 406; Michx. f. Sylv. 1, t. 96, fig. 2. E, Conse
densis, Michx. l. c. t. 95. This is the common cottonwood, which has a range from the
Atlantic to the Great Colorado, and almost as great an extent of latitude. It is abundant in
some places near Fort Yuma. 5

SALIX LONGIFOLIA, Muhl., var.?: foliis dense serratis ; fructibus glabris. On the Colorado.

EPHEDRA ANTISIPHILITICA, Moric. Mountains east of San Diego.

CYPERUS PHYMATODES, Muhl. Gram. p. 23. Abundant in the immediate valley of the Gila,
ten miles from Fort Yuma; November. Near Kern River, Tule; August.

Cyperus MICHAUXIANUS, Schultes ; Torr. Cyp. p. 259. Banks of the Colorado, in moist places ;
& dwarf form.

SCIRPUS LACUSTRIS, Linn.; Torr. Cyp. p. 321. Kern River; August. The specimens are
remarkably tall, being more than eight feet high, but the panicle of spikelets is very small.

VILFA UTILIS (n. sp.): glabra culmis prostratis v. assurgentibus ramosissimis tenuibus; foliis
(1"-2) angustis convolutis confertis patulis v. recurvis; panicula (1") contracta pauciflora ;
(spiculis 3" ;) glumis subequalibus lanceolatis acutis paleas »quales acutiusculas dimidio bre-

^

366 APPENDIX.

voribus. Between the Tejon Pass and the Lost Hills of California. This grass is not uncom-
mon in New Mexico and western Texas, where it is used by the natives for stuffing pads for
loaded mules, its soft thread-like culms making it admirably fit for this purpose. Mr. Blake's
specimens are nearly two feet long, which is twice its usual length. In the young flowers the
glumes are scarcely one-third the length of the paleæ, but at maturity, they are commonly one-
half their length. It belongs to a group of the genus that includes V. Virginica, Linn. and V.
Matrella, Nees. It is also nearly related to V. humifusa, Hook., but that has unequal glumes,
the upper one nearly as long as the palew, or sometimes one-third shorter. No. 958, of Fend-
ler's New Mexican collection, and No. 1983, of Wright's, are thesame as the Californian plant,
differing only in the more rigid leaves, and somewhat more acute pales.

Another, and apparently new, Vilfa was found by Mr. Blake, at the head of Tulare Valley,
but his specimens are rather imperfect, and we defer giving it a name for the present. It is
an erect grass, about six feet high, simple, with narrow, convolute leaves, and scabrous sheaths.

The panicle is two feet long, and much contracted. The spikelets are lanceolate, and nearly
terete, scabrous under a lens. Glumes equal, rounded on the back, one-fourth shorter than the
lanceolate, rather acute pales; the inferior paleæ a little hairy at the base. No. 1993, of
Wright’s collection, is near this species, but it differs in the glabrous flowers, and the palew a
little shorter than the glumes, without any hairiness at the base.

Potypocon MowsPELIENSIS, Desf. Var.? MONOLEPIS: palea inferiore setam infra apicem exserente
glumis duplo longiorem, superiore nulla. Pos& Creek, Walker's Pass; August. Culm terete,
simple. Leaves flat, and with the sheaths puberulous; ligule oblong. Panicle oblong, dense
and spiciform, somewhat interrupted. Glumes equal, acuminate, and cuspidate; serrulate on
the keel. Inferior palea scarcely more than half as long as the glumes, 4-toothed at the sum-
mit, with an awn arising above the middle of the back nearly twice the length of the glumes ;
the upper palea wanting, or extremely minute. If the characters here given prove to be con-
stant, this is probably a distinct species from P. Monspeliensis.

MUHLENBERGIA DIFFUSA, Schreb. Gram. 2, t. 51. Var. aristis multo longioribus. Tulare Valley.
Perhaps a distinct species.

ERIOCOMA CUSPIDATA, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 30. Urachne lanata, Trin. Act. Petrop. 1834, p. 126.
“ Grows in bunches, on plains; October." Mr. Blake has not recorded the precise station of
this grass, but we have never received it before from any part of California.

ARISTIDA HUMBOLDTIANA, Trin. e Rupr. Stip. p. 118? Head of Tulare Valley, California ;
September. Culm apparently tall, glabrous; sheaths smooth, hairy at the throat. Panicle
erect, pyramidal, about a foot long, the branches solitary, in pairs, or semiverticillate ; the
divisions appressed and racemose. Glumes slightly unequal ; the lower one about 4 lines long,
the upper 4 a line longer, cuspidate. Palew a little exceeding the glumes. Lateral sete as
long as the flowers, the central somewhat longer, equally spreading, straight. We are by no
means confident that the species is correctly determined.

BOUTELUNA (CHONDROSIUM) POLYSTACHYA, Benth. Bot. Sulph. p. 56; Torr. in Emory's Hep. P-
153. Hill-sides, on the Colorado, and in the desert west. There are usually 4 or 5 spikes, but
sometimes only 3. At each joint of the spikes there are two kinds of spikelets; the lower one:
1-flowered ; the upper sesquiflorous. The rudimentary flower is sometimes reduced to 3 awns,
with a tuft of hairs at their common base. (Tab. X.)
` Meeastacnya—near M. conferta (Poa conferta, EU.) Kern River, Tule; August. Den
2-3 feet high. Leaves narrow, convolute when old, glabrous, as is also the sheath. Panicle

PIENE RE NUN ei auge

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APPENDIX. 367

elongated, much contracted, and spiciform, Spikelets 8-10-flowered, 3 lines long, and scarcely
half a line wide.

Festuca. Kern River. This I have not received before, and it is not described as a North
American Festuca. It may, however, be a Chilian species, and I regret not having the means
of determining it at present. It is a tall grass, with flat smooth glaucous leaves, and a long
contracted panicle. The spikelets are about 10-flowered. Glumes very unequal; the upper one
much longer, and abruptly mucronate at the tip. Lower palea hairy on the margin toward the
base, bifid at the tip, with a short straight bristle between the teeth. Upper palea much
smaller.

PHRAGMITES COMMUNIS, Linn. Warm Springs, Cohuillas.

ELYMUS ARENARIUS, Linn. Posa creek; August. This occurs also in other parts of California,
but is not found on the eastern side of the continent.

Panicum Crus-GALLI, Linn. Var. Setaria Californica, Kellogg, in Proceed. Calif. Acad. Nat.
Sc. p. 27? Kern River. This is a very tall form. The panicle consists of numerous approxi-
mated appressed branches, forming a dense spiciform inflorescence. The flowers are awnless ;
the inferior glume short and very broad, with a minute abrupt point. Dr. Kellogg’s plant was
found at the head of the Sacramento Valley.

PANICUM CAPILLARE, Linn. With the last. It agrees with the Eastern grass, and it may be
anintroduced species in California,

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DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES,

Prae I. FAGONIA CALIFORNICA, (page 359.)
(A BRANCH OF THE NATURAL SIZE.) `

. Fig. 1. A flower; moderately enlarged.
Fig. 2. A sepal, side view ; more enlarged.
Fig. 3. The same, as seen from the inside, equally magnified. |
Fig. 4. A petal; and,

Fig. 5. A stamen; both considerably e E
Fig. 6. A capsule; moderately enlarged.

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PLATE II. DALEA EMORYI, (page 360.)
(A BRANCH OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

Figs. 1-3. Leaves, of the natural size.

. A flower; moderately enlarged.

Calyx of the same, shown separately.

The corolla laid open; a, the banner; 5, b, wing-petals ; c, c, keel-petals.
Stamineal tube; enlarged.

. Part of one of the stamens ; considerably magnified.

. The pistil ; moderately enlarged.

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Prats III, CERCIDIUM FLORIDUM, (page 360.)
(A BRANCH OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)
The corolla, showing the arrangement of the petals ; enlarged.
A flower, from which the petals have been removed ; more enlarged.
A stamen ; still more magnified.
The pistil ; equally magnified.
A legume, of the natural size.

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Prae IV. STROMBOCARPA PUBESCENS, (page 360.)
(A BRANCH OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

Fig. 1. A flower ; moderately enlarged.

Fig. 2. The calyx, shown separately.

Fig. 3. The corolla, laid open; more magnified.

Figs. 4 and 5. Front and back views of a stamen ; — magnified.
` Fig. 6. An ovary ; equally magnified. : :

Fig. T. Longitudinal section of the same.

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DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 369

Piare V. TRICHOPTILIUM INCISUM, (page 361.)
(AN ENTIRE PLANT OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

Involucre and receptacle ; moderately enlarged.

A flower ; more enlarged.

The corolla, removed ; equally magnified.

The same, laid open, and showing the stamens ; more magnified.

A stamen ; equally magnified.

Part of the style and its divisions, showing the stigmatic lines; still more magnified.
Achenium crowned with its pappus ; considerably magnifiéd,

The five scales of the pappus spread out and magnified,

One of the scales of the pappus ; more highly magnified,

. A portion of the same; highly magnified.
. Longitudinal section of an achenium ; and,
. Transverse section of the same; both moderately enlarged.

Prate VI. EREMIASTRUM BELLIOIDES, (page 361.)
(AN ENTIRE PLANT OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

The involucre and receptacle ; enlarged.

A ray-flower ; more enlarged.

A disk-flower ; equally magnified.

Corolla of the same, laid open, showing the stamens.

A stamen ; considerably magnified.

The style, with its divisions, showing the stigmatic lines; more magnified.
An achenium, crowned with its pappus; magnified.

A portion of the pappus, from the same.

Pram VII. ASCLEPIAS SUBULATA, (page 362.) B
(UPPER PART OF THE PLANT, OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

One of the hoods of the crown, side view ; magnified.
The same, with one side folded back to show the horn.
An anther, front view; considerably enlarged.

The same, seen from the inside.

A pair of pollen masses; considerably magnified.

Prae VIII. CHORIZANTHE FIMBRIATA, (page 364.)
(AN ENTIRE PLANT OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

An involucre and its solitary flower ; magnified.
The involucre shown separately ; equally magnified.
The same, laid open.
Perianth ; equally magnified.
The perianth, laid open; more magnified.
One of the segments of the same.
Ovary and styles; equally magnified.
47 F

370

Fig.

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DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.

Prate IX. QUERCUS CRASSIPOCULA, (page 365.)
(A BRANCH, OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

1. A leaf from a young shoot.

Pirate X. BOUTELOUA (CHONDROSIUM) POTYSTACHYA, (page 366.)
(AN ENTIRE PLANT, OF THE NATURAL SIZE.)

A spikelet ; magnified. |

The superior glume.

Inferior palea of the perfect flower ; magnified.

Superior palea of the same ; equally magnified.

Sterile flower ; also magnified.

The achenium, crowned with the persistent styles.

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E INDEX.

A.

Page.

Adobe houses Pes. 79
Adobe house at Warner’s 106
Agassiz, Prof. Louis, notice of fossil fishes by...... 152, 171
Agate and carnelian in the sand of the Desert........ 120
Agate Creek 67
Agates near Williamson’s Pass 67
the Bernardino Sierra 63

Arave E =. 105

g
Agriculture at San Bernardino 82
Agricultural capabilities of the soil of the Desert ..248, 250

=
p

75

Agua Caliente 106, 125

O aR near Mart 5

Air current through er Minn Gate to the interior -- 253

to the interior, through the pass of San
Bernardino

91
Air, clearness of, on the Desert 251
; 109
Algodones 111
Alluvium of the Desert 234
of the San Joaquin 10
Alluvial of King’s River 25
of the Four Creeks 2 26
of the Santa Clara 72
of San Gabriel 79
of the vicinity of San Francisco............ 159
Altitude of the surface of —— the Colorado
Desert, and coast sl pared 144
Altitude of the Sierra Nevada. ere LC PERE A ee 134
merican River 262, 263
American River, eroded valley of :
American aloe 123
Amidor’s and Livermore's Valley 141
Analysis of the incrustation from the hot springs at
San Bernardino 84
Analyses of the sii of San Bernardino - UHR dec 08
Amnicola .... :
Ancient Lake of the Colorado Desert. ----97, 235
Ancient Lake, epee! of by the Indians. as w 98
Andalusite, Bear 0 15
Chow eau River i 16,304 |
Andalusite slate : 16 |
Anodon! 103, 109

Anodouís, fossil on tise تست‎ But. E 97
Anomia

Flt

r 176 |

Page.
Antelope, herds of, near King's River 25
near Lake Elizabeth 56

Anticlinical axes in the sandstone of San Francisco.... 154
Antlers of the elk 1

Antimony, sulphuret of 43,291
ibid a of the Toejon Indiens Ai u 41
Archilette 224
Arca Es 171
Arca microdonta 188
Area of the Great Basin 213
of the Colorado Desert 144
gill dst 104
Argill SENS 33
Argillaceous and talcose slates---------------------- 270
Armagosa 224
Arsenic 303
Artesian wells, probable success of in the Great Basin.. 224
Artesian wells at San Franciseo.................- 161,162
at San José 162 -
Ascequias 111
Asphalt 284
Aspinwall 1
Auriferous drift or alluvia at Yankee Jim's ---------- 262
at Forst IN La 262
"uade. 263
at Michigan City.........- 264
at í 268
at Georgetown ......- se.. 213
as Comment I... ue 274
McRLIONS OF un 277
local character of --------- 277
ine deposits. -.....- 278
its relations to the tertiary.. 189
prid quarts, Quartebare ir leo ccu.
uriferous slates in the Pass of San Francisquito ----- 59
— for the supply of water to the miners ----- 261
Azoic 254
B.
Baculites in the strata of Chico Creek 173
Bailey, Prof. J. W., observations on the microscopic

ptio)
found in the Great Basin .... 183
Barbacoas -- 1,2
Baker’: h 264

II ^
Page.
Barley, stubble of, on the borders of the Desert....... 96
Parren hills 9
Basaltic lava near Fort Miller 18
plain o 24
polarity of 24
columnar structure 24
boulders in the bed of the Merced 12
Basaltic rocks at Knight's Ferry-............. 254
Basalt and greenstone of the Isthmus 2
Basalt, Bay of Panama 3
Basins within the limits of the Great Basin 217
Baskets made by Indians 24
made by the Indians at the Tijon 46
Baths, Indian 20
Bay of Monterey 139

Beach-line of a former lake 98
Beac

h-shingle 128
at San Diego 176
Beach of white sand 4
Beale, E. F., superintendent of Indian affairs for Cali-
fornia 39
success in raising crops by the aid of In-
i چ‎ 39
Bear Creek 15
trail... 48
ie Lot ee Pi dp pa 50
Bios; lieutenant, notice of the geological collection ۱
45
Ben Bay etme tes 286
Benicia oo 4,5
| sandstone ...... 4,283
conglomerate 4

55,133
trend, and general elevation of 135, 136,
13

relations of, to the Sierra Nevada and

Coast Mountains................ 136
Tig Passes in 137
Big Lagoon 109
Big Tree Cottage 258
Bituminous strata at Monterey 180
&t San Pedro 129
shales at San Diego. 128
silica. » 230,178
ab. springs at Los tm 76
Bitumen ;
of the Const یه‎ 284, 285
ings at Los Angeles................. 284,285
Black-tailed dee: 34
Blackness of ia rocks at Pilot Knob, Colorado Desert.. 112
Bluff of sandstone
Board sluices
Bones of animals near the Desert 105, 107
Bones in the drift or detritus of San Francisco........ 160
Boston ravine 268
E Bottom land of the Mojave 64
; of the Colomo: 116
(skr a the entrance of the Gad ns Uvas —— 41
amd drift of gravel at Carrizo Creck......... 108

te

_Cetaceous, bones of, on the moun ie

Page.
Boundaries of the Great Basin 212, 213
Brackish water 109
Brandy 75
Bread made of the Mezquite bean 98
Break or fissure in the rocks at Fort Yuma 115
Brecciated strata, volcanic 55,56

reccia near Williamson's Pass „68
Bronzite 7,158, 307
Brook of hot water 83
Brick making at San Francisco 160
Brimstone plains 267
Buena Vista lake 44,49
Building stone at San Franeisco 148

at Panama 2

Bulla jugularis 701
h grass of the Basin 52
Burns' Creek 14

C.

Cacholong 269
Cactacex, Colorado Desert 95
Calcareous sandstone at San P 129

incrustation on the shores of the Ancient

e ,100
sinter or travertin 112
water of the Ancient Lake 239
Calcite on the surface of the Desert 104
(California candstone 153
Walley assed Aa a نی‎ 143
clover 75,79
Cajon 85
pr à las Uvas, the southern limit of the Sierra
134
Cañon نیج‎ Ten Rivertown A E 263
Caüons in the side of San am a PE
Cape St. Lucas Si 8
Conception...... .... 3
Capitol dome ; - iri
Carbonate of copper 。 69
of magnesia, in thick beds 28
of soda 310
Carcharodon rectus a 172
Cardita ..... - 179
aniio — su hén
Cardium modestum... 7
Carrizo Creek, temperature of...... - 105
approach to : 20295
strata on the borders of-------------- 121
Casteca Lake un Serie a N S Sal 47
Clio at San Fernandes cc LL 75
in droves, on the rancho of San Franeisgit. SEn 78
mired in clay near King's River --.----------- 26
Cave City pice E do
in the limestone at Cave City...---.----.------
containing human skulls a.
Cedar trees of a slope of the Great Basin — ..---

Cement Hill, auriferous deposits at---------
Cemoria

Mio a A A NR Nee Re pe ge EE LS amd [^

INDEX. E 111

Page.
Chagres River 1
gest ae strata at Monterey 180
Chamizal ..... .-.. 57
enki in the slope of the Basin 215

Channel of Santa Barbara
` Charcoal in the strata of Ocoya Creel 166,173
وی و‎ 48,116
Chiastolite 345
Chico Creek, = of 173
Chimney Pi 114
China granite 4
Chinamen an gold 20
Chlorite 199
Chlorite Fe near the Merced 13
Chlorite in slate 60
Chromic iron 303
Chrysolite 307
Chowchillas River 16
Clay hills of Ocoya Creek 165
Clay of the Desert 101, 234

polished by driving sand 9
Deep Well 96
Clay overlying deposits of gold 213
Clay scil near King's River 26
Clay slate near the Merced 13
ar Auburn 261
Clearness sae transparency of the air in California .... 5
Clearness of the air on the Desert 100
Cliffs of lava 23
Climate of the Tejon 40
of the valley of San Bernardino 81
of the Colorado Desert. aa 2... 248, 250
Clover of Califor.
Coal from th 287
Coal of Bellingham Bay 285, 286
Coal of Vancouver's Island . 287
Coast Mountains 138, 139
Coast Mountains visible ۶ tl pl ins of the Tulares-. 25
west of the Tulare Jak GAs ans 33
seen from San Amedio Mountain. ..-- 44
age of i 219
. . average elevation 0f.-...-.-.......- 140
cio Indians VA EH 98
71
ee Desert, extentand honndades مت رن‎ E -94,112
hills of

purces of water on the 244

capabilities of the soil of... 248

agricultural
اا‎ formations of ------------ 234

alluvium of . 234

- soil of
climate of - $ 248, 251
vegetation : 252
elevation = er surface of. 144
Colors of distant mountains----------- en 100
Columbia BB

Columnar structure of lava wi E

terraces on rs
formerly the. bed “of EEE lake--. 235 |
235

4

Page.

Columnar basalt 3
Colus arctatus 170
, fossil 2

Comet, k 34
Concretions of clay, E Desert 102
Concretionary sandstone 102
Concretions in the sandstone of the Diablo Range. ..... 9
Concretions in the strata of the Desert -------------- 175
Conferre 83
Conglomerate, Benicia 4
Diablo Valley 6

in Livermore's Pass 9

of quartz 16

at Cruces 2

near the Merced 12

Conglomerate near San Diego 128
in the banks of Posuncula River...... er

bordering the Colorado. 112

Contra Costa range -------- E ES 139, 140

Cooke's Well ۱

Copper, Mt of, Great Basin 290
eous 290

yo LARA 291

xide 291

Copper ore near Ni SPAS TN E Ma 66
Copper ore, Willlamson's Pa ieia 69
Conrad, T. "im cna of fossils by 1
Corbula Diegoana 176
ite He, 3 138

Coritas, or baskets made by the Indians 46
Cottonwood trees on the banks of Moore's Creek ..... 29
at Ocoya Creek 32

Cottonwood Creek 66
Cow Camp : 61
: Cowlitz coal 287
Coyote, California wolf 5
Crepidula 130
Crepidula princeps : 187
Crest of the Sierra Nevada ...- mon 14
Cleat : ۳ و‎
Cruces : pi
Crystals of gypsum | om
- of andalusite s 16

of mica 16
Current of air through the Pass of San Bernardino---- 91
Currier, P. C., esq., mining claim at Georgetown ----- 213
and tellinz at the head of Tulare Valley ---- 164

D.

Dalea Spinosa

pore se اسر‎ gat on the Geni o ie

oring Expedition tion cited IP INS hen ubl cem .281

i 1 10
Deer skins öffered for sale .. 35
Deep Well, Colorado Desert 96
Delta of the San Joaquin.....---- alla edet A 2 10
of the Colorado. 236

of the Four Creeks. 21
Dentalium 173

IV INDEX.

P
Denudation of the plain of lava at Fort Miller ------- 23
Depot Camp at Ocoya Creek
Desert, Colorado

32
.94, 112,234

view of from Carrizo Creek 08
Diablo valley 6,141
Diabio range --.-.- 139
iagonal stratification 167
Diallage, or bronzite : 7
Diallage in the serpentine of Fort Point 157
Dislocation of a bed of sandstone.......------..-.-- 149
Dome rock 114
Drift or erratics near Tejon Creek 32
Drift or detritus 8
of the Tejon Pass 51,207
resting on the edges of sandstone. .... 66
overlying the strata of the Desert -... 175
of the Great Basin 219

forming a at San Bernardino.... 88
Drift or een eh in the Cañada de las

RE near Carrizo Creek 108
Drifted sand 91,95
Dry Creek à x 12
Dry Creek, valley of ۱ 25
Dry lake, or Playa, Great Basin 54, 220
Be 58
Dunes of blown sand at San Francisco ........... 160, 161
Dwarf oaks - 42
Dykes of trap. 79
E.
Earthquakes at Fort Yuma 115
Easter, Dr. J. D., analysis by ... 84
arg 1f Plakei 4 172
Efilorescences from the soil 82
Elbow Creek 26
El Dorado Poe aqueduct of. ; 267
Elephas, tooth 257
Elevation of vie water-line 100
p =- — ot بمب‎ een MED مت ییاد‎ 97
tl level. 238
of the slopes of the Great Basin 217
of the California coast, evidences of-------- 186
Elk 10
Elkhorn 10
Emigrant road from the Gila to Carrizo Creek ........ 99
Emory, Major Wm. H., reference to the report of... 109
Empire Company at Grass Valley 268

Eocene fossils at the Cafiada de las Uvas 46
Eocene strata of the southern end of the Tulare valley. 163
Eocene fossils

Erosion of the valley of the San Joaquin ee 23

of river valleys 278

Erupted rocks filled with agates u

ee dyke of porphyry 68

۱ Ur of water at ‘Ocoya Creek... 34
xe rapidity of. l decem 194
E i وج ریت‎ E مج‎ bem 3 we 5
p ee 143

F.

ge,
Faults in "rer vet Carrizo Creek 121
Feldspathic so 39

Feldspathic veins 12
Feldspar in crystals 126,307
Fertility of the soil of the Desert 111
Fig trees 73

Fir trees in the mountains at the head of the Tulare

Valley 43
Fissurella crenulata 186
Fissure in the rocks at Pilot Knob ۱ 119
Flexures of the strata near San Francisco 154, 155
Flexure of the rocks of the Tejon Pass 205
Flint containing fossils 112
Flour mill at San Bernardino 81
Fog and precipitation of water, Cajon Pass 85
Fog at San Gabriel 79
at Warner's Pass 105
Forest Hill : 262
Forests of pines 257
Formations of San Francisco 145
Foot hills of the Sierra Nevada : 12
ort Miller 19,20
mining at 20
Fort Ross, sandstone of. 283
Fort at Panama 2
Fort Yuma on the Colorado 112,113

Fossils at Ocoya Creek 33, 34, 170, 171,172
at the head of the Tulare Valley-.----------- 42
at San Fernando
at Carrizo Creek

108, 175, 235
152

in the sandstone of Benicia. - - -- - ------------ 5
at San Fernando ER Li
at San Diego dal wc BED
at San Pedro 186
at Chico Creek and Volcano Ridge. --.----- 173, 174
in the clay of the Desert A E aa
bed of at Ocoya Creek. ------ Wes 0
eocene NET . 164
Whesll shell: nei 1
. eocene, at the entrance of the Cafiada de
A AA ak S 46
Fossil stems of plants ------.-------- === 36
Fossil tree in sandstone .......---------+---- PNIS 12
Fossil aysters a aided wale
EIA nn ee 123
Four Creeks, alluvial land of ....-.--- --—- PERS Rage 27
vseietion a and Picea T BEAT E 21
وروی روت‎ to Pass. rd o is سے چ‎ 55
Frémont, Col. J. C., reference to lic on the
.Great Basin Vicki im eain »
Fresh-water shells, fossil . net a ate fee aes ere ee
Fresno River. jedi dr د‎ I
Fruit trees at the Tejon--------------------------- 40
a.
12
Galeocerdo productus ..-.-.--.----------7777777 171,1
Ga 二 9

Fa AAT‏ و اس

INDEX.

Page.
Gariota Pass 137
Garilau Range 3 139
Georgetown 271
Gila River 113
Globular sandstone 146
Gnathodon Lecontei 103,105
Gnei mica slate 94
Gneissoidal granite 18
Gneissoidal rocks
Goddard, Geo H., observations in the Sierra Nevada... 134

Golden Gate

4
a great cleft or fissure in the Coast Moun-
140

tains

Gold Hill mine at Grass Valley 269
Gold ne on the banks of the San Joaquin. ...... 20
Bear Creek 15
۳ Fort Miller 20
at the Pass of San Francisquito- --------- -- -- vc 60
on the Santa Anna River. 22. une 60
of Columbia 255
of Forest Hill 262,263
in crystals 263
at Michigan City 265
at Nevada 268
yield of at Grass Valley 269
in plates and masses at the Gold Hill Mine...... 270
in lumps at Auburn 270
at Coloma 271
crystals at lrish Creek 271
of Washington Tunnel at Georgetown ---------- 273
at Cement Hill 1 274
in quartz at Volcanoville 274
recent origin of » 279
age of, in California 279
of San Francisquito Rancho 298
of Armagoza Mines 298
of Colorado Ri 299
of Coast Mountains 299
of Port Orford 299
stallized 299
Gorgona 2
Gould, Dr. Aug. A., examinations of shells I suede 97
Granite at Mone Ferry 13
f Mon y 3
Taler of the Fresno 17
at Fort Miller 20
contact with basalt 22
veins of, at Fort Miller 22
in outliers near White Creek (wav. 9
in boulders at the Cañada de las Uvas- -..--.- 46
the Cañada de las Uvas 46, 48
of the Tejon Pass 51
of the Lost Mountains of the Great Basin ---- 54

of the Pass of San Francisqui aca
of the Mojave Valley 64
near Johnson's River 65
of Williamson's Pass ....-----.- ----------68, 69
of the Cajon Pass . 88

۲
Page.
Granite of San Gorgofio Momninige SORT EBEN AO --91, 94, 95
at Fort Yuma 114,115
at the summit of Warner’s Pass ----- 124, 125, 281
compact and gray 126
at Point Pinos 180,281
of the Tejon Pass 202,281
of the Great Basin
at Fort Yuma 234, 280
on the Stanislaus 256
near Sacramento 261
at Nevada 268,275
near Georgetown
at Mormon Island 27 5, 282
junction of the Gila and Colorado 280
Bernardino Pass > 280
. . at Warner's Pass 106,281
at Cajon Pass 281
at Fort Miller, on the San Joaquin .......... 281
j 281
of Point Reyes ....... 281
at Agua Caliente 106
from Ch 4
Granitic veins 124
Granitic rocks in the ters of San Amedio ...... --42, =
Granitic soil of the T
of San RER a
Grapes at San Fernando 75
at Los Angeles us
n the Tejon Valley 59
ap culture at Los Angeles Ti
71
Graphite i in limestone 05
Grass Valley 268
Grass seed collected by Indians. 33
Grasses on the bottom land of the Posuncula . die E 33
Gratelupia d
Gravestone slates : a 254
e A ae 11
bus 33
Great Se extent and borindaries ی رس‎ an A ir
w of its surface PU T Tejon 51
Great ps view a from Carrizo Creek 108
Green barked acaci 116
Green Spring tee 254
Green-stone at San Gabriel 19
at Ban. Diego... - = pne mt هه‎ reque 176
Gri: 7,48
Ground sluices 266, 268
Groves of oak trees il
Grooving of rocks by driving Mec EEE 92
Gulf of بو‎ 3
northern extension of ------- des 144
formerly cal called Vermillion f. ces. 7
"^ list Orek. “492
in the veinstone of the antimony E 44
in the strata at Ocoy wool 108, 169
in the strata near Williamson’ 8 Pas. EA 68

<

a

VI
H.
Page.
Helvetia and Lafayette Mining Company -....-..-..- 269
Hemipristis heteropleurus 171,172

Heintzleman, Major, account of a mud volcano, by... 115

Herds of antelope 56
Hieroglyphics, Indian 56
Horizontal water-line on the rocks 97
Horizontal strata in the mining region 259
Hornblendic rock 30
Hornblende slate 199
Horse thieves, evidences of 53
Hot springs 83
Colorado Desert 94
arner’s 106
Hot baths by Indians 20
Humus, absence of, in the voila or plains of California. 39
Hydraulic method of mining ,266
£
Iceland spar 104
Igneous rocks near San Gabriel........ A ------ 79
of the Cañada de las Uvas 211
Ilmeni 274, 303
Inclined deposits on the granite at Fort Yuma ....... 115
Indians at Fort Miller 20, 24
at San Felipe 105
at the Tejon 39, 40
from Posuncula River 35
‘on the Desert 95,98
Indian rancherias at the Tejon 39
Indian reservation 39
Indian feast 98
Indian fig, (prickly pear) 74
Indian method of bathing 20
Incrustation on the borders of the hot springs at San
Bernardino 83

Incrustation on the rocks and dem around the Desert 99
Infusoria at San Pedro

beds of, at Monterey 180
Infiltration of ferruginous water... 168
Iron ore, Burns' Creek 14

forming a bed in the Cafiada de las Uvas.... 50

in the limestone of the summit of the Cañada. M

3

h , oxid £ A

: ited in the strata by parc 168, 16
Irregular outline. of the on NEC ee 97
Tihgstion, natural, at the Four Creeks 97
= at the Tejon 39,40
at San Fern 74
of the surface of the Desert ------ 249
Jine : in the Bay of Panama - e ，
. * Islands near the coast of California 140
Isthmus of Darien 14

^"

J.

254
155,156
264

INDEX.

age
Johnson's River 63, 220
Junction of the Gila and Colorado Rivers ا‎
K.
Kern Lake .-.. 37,143
elevation of. 143
Knight's Ferry 254
King’s River ---- 25
L.
Lacustrine clay of the desert 235
Lacustrine a of —— materialg.::.- 222.22: 278
Lagoon near San 126
Lake Fork or E s River 25
Lake Elizabeth 51
Lamination of rocks 200
minated and gneissoidal rocks 124
Lamna ornata 152
Lamna clavata 172
Lamna elegans fas 8
Land slides E E 7
Larrea Mexicana 80,110, 242
Las Vegas 224
Lava, plain of, at Fort Miller 21
Lava, overflows of, in the Great Basin 218
Leda subacut 174
Lenticular masses in granite 106
Lenticular en in granite 275
ora Ben 5
Lignite San Francisco 287,288
ers outros in the Cañada de las Uvas-47, 209, 210
he Cajon Pass su. 88
s =x Tejon Pass 201,204
and quartz rocks of San Gorgofio --------- 93
solution of the surface of .-.........---- ما‎ 256
for building purposes 283, 284
belt of = gold region, Erbin and probable

age - 216
Lime Point, edid: of cer 100
Limonite, Burns' Creek 14, 290

Littorina Pedroana xu. RN
Livermore's Valley ....--------------------------- 6,8
Livermore's Pass و‎ oe
Looming of mountains -...------.----------------- 108
Tod Anpoles cutee over nenn 76

Volcanoville ...- ----------- "7-7 Rn

Lost Moun near the Four Creeks....-..-..-----
Lost Méuktalnk of the Great Basin..--...-..-- 52,214, m
Döver California سا‎ et A au nd یت‎ mme =~
Lutraria licita to ae lll =
M. :
Mata cl net osx sn SEIT oi tp nM o Et Mo 305
Mactra ülbaris . «iets eiue aan aia 173, HT
Mactra Diegoana a Uses ما سم‎ 176,171
Magn nesi an YOCKH... em ie daa eee emilia MEME 28, 29
| Magnesite, thick beds of, in the metamorphic s strata... 28
Magnetite, Cañada de las Uvas ---.---------+----- cio DU
۱ Williamson’s Pass ..--------------- ann 28%

A

INDEX VII
e
Page. Page.
Maguey along Carrizo Creek 123 | Millerton 24
aguey at the Cajon 88 | Minerals
Malarious fever 1 | Mining by sai er method 265, 266
Mameluke Hill 271 Michigan C i 264
Mameluke Tunnel Co 272 nn organisms at MOLES lu, 180, 181
Mammoth and mastodon, remains of, in the gold al- Miocene of Ocoya Creek 34,164
luvia 256,257 | Mirage on the Colorado Desert .............. 103, 108, 251
Mammoth, tooth of. 186 | Mirage in the Great Basin 221
Mammoth trees ---257,258 | Mission of San Fernando 74
Manzinita 88,270 Mission of San Diego 128
Manganese, arborescent growth of, on slabs of rock-... 263 | Mission of San Francisco 4
Marine shells, fossil 33,129 | Mission of San Gabriel , 78
Marine ranges parallel with the coast Mitchell's Bridge 11
Marine Islan ! 149,150 | Mojave Rive
Marshes of the San Joaquin 10 por a tributary of the Colorado...... 212, 213
Martinez 5 Mojave River, spring at 224

sses of antimony ore 4
Mastodon, portion of a tooth of, from Ocoya Creek... 172
Melocactus 9

Melons at the Tejon 39
Melons raised by Indians 111
Teretrix

Meretrix Tularana 42,188
Merced River I

Mercenaria perlaminosa .......... E 179

Mescal ===> 105

Mesas or table hills 18

Metamorphic rocks near the Mariposa 16

near Howard's Ferry 13

at Fort Miller 20

at the Four Creeks 27

of the Cañada de las Uvas ------- 46

+ of the Tejon: PRESS woe as lt 51

0 Great Basin 53

of the Pass of San Francisquito .. 60
near the Cow Camp 61
of the Valley of the Mojave 64
ef San ig; Mountain....91,93,94
of Pilot Kn 112
at Vallecito
of the 'Tejon 199,207
limestone, of the Tejon ....---.. 204
e las Uvas..-.... 210
of the Lost Mountains and Great

Basin
of the Do Desert 234
of the Gold Regi 275,276
— belts et trending N.W.
and S

-
=

2
وی‎ of the Gold Region --- 276
Metamorphic sandstone u. 3096
Metamorphosed sandstone
Mezquite bushes
on the desert, partly dead

.-. 205
95, 107, 111, 242
109

Deep Well 96
Mezquite bread, made by Indians ------------------- 98
Mezquite beans ---- 105
Mezquite wells E
Mirarann Tis 61

Mica slate 199

alternate appearance and موی‎ bi
the water of
Mojave River Camp

ce cas Hill 260, 261
Monkey H 1
79
Monterey 8,4, 130
BE, sp: of. X 180
28
didus diit of California 133
Mountains of California, grouping of 134
Mountains of the Great Basin and Desert 141 |
Mountains north of the Desert 142
Mountains west of the Tulare Lakes 33
Mountain Sheep 43,46
Mount Diablo 6
elevation of. > 140
m: in Mong yellow festoons 43
rnardino 81
Mormon Island
j granite at 275,282
Mud on the Isthmus 2

Murchison, Sir R. J., conclusions of, respecting the © ۲
u

recent formation of go 78, 279
Mytilus Pe Pedro an sli aR a pe a Oh 186
N.
Nanaimo, coal of 287
کت‎ ap, A 186
Nassa Pedroana . 186
nes Ocoyana 08
Natica Diegoana ues E uc Pe
| Natica XX à و‎ 170
Natica —— ir ~----------- . 173
Navy Point, Benicia : : — |
aus of the strata oo "c.r IM
| Nevad 213
New River in the Desert 233
Nickel, Emerald 5 303
x Sod : 177
Nucula divaricata 173, 177

VIII INDEX.

0. Page
Page. Pine trees of Monterey 3
Oak trees 125 t San Felipe 124
at Fort Miller 20 Pinus EER 264
of the Tejon 38 Pinite, or ‘ Pine Sugar” 264
of the Cafiada de las Uvas- 47 | Pinnacles of sandstone 86
like Quercus imbricaria -- -- ---. pan E a= 126 | Pipiguna River 21
10 | Pitch Springs - 16
Obsidian 56 Placer mining at Forest Hill 26
Ocoya Creek Miocene strata 164 by the hydraulic method 265, 266
Olive trees 74 at Nevada )
Orange trees 14 at Georgetown 212
Origin of the Ancient Lake 236 at Cement Hill 274
Gutraphy of California . - nassen pá n متا‎ 133 | Plains of the San Joaquin 28
Ostrea 13.108 of the Tulares 28
Ostrea Heermanni 176 | Plain of San Fernando 75
Ostrea Vespertina 176 of polished pebbles 117
ria i 4 of lava 21
Outlines of mirage 108 | Planes of structure in the lava of Fort Miller....... 21, 2
Outcrops of limestone in the Cañada de las Uvas.....- 47 | Plane tree along Johnson's River 65
Overflow of lava... 23 | Planorbis, found on the Colorado Desert 97
Overlapping of the ranges of the Coast Mountains .... 139 Lu silicified stems o 36,37
Geis of i iron in the strata of Ocoya Creek 168 | Platiniridium 300
y I 171,172 | Plateaux of edm or post tertiary formations...... 271
Oxyrhina t 1 2 171,172 | Pleurotoma 170
Ocoyana 170
P. Pliocene of Ocoya creek 34
Pacheco’s Peal 140 | Plumbago m
m Halad 79 Point Conception 3
Pai Ute rang 141, 142 Pinos, Monterey 3, 180
Palm Spri Ls ' 122 bos, sandstone of. 145
Palm trees at San Fernando. 75 | Polarity of tale lava $
Palm tree at the Warm Spring, Colorado Desert ...... 95 | Polished pebbles of the Desert s 108, 112
Panama 2 | Polythalami 182
Pandora. . 179 | Poole's Ferry, King's River... 25
Parallelism of ranges 141 | Poole, Charles H., observations on the northern part of
Pass of S 89,90 the Desert 8
Pass of San Franeisguite a ILL 55 description of Soda Springs-------- 245
Passes in the Sierra ا‎ elevation of -...-..--..- 135 | Porto Bello 1
Pebbles on m Desert Porphyry, filled with green crystals -- - - ----- ------- 42
Pebbles, | by sand on the Desert... aita 108, 117 in the Great Basin ıo a= vé
E Porphyritic mo 18
Debian essiBfemia 170 ocks in a breccia. xau UB
Pecten Nevadanus 170 Pose, or ore © Creek, approach to bu cune E
Pectens, Carrizo Creek T 108 32
Pectens in the strata at Ocoya Creek . de 171 camp at Àj . 32
Pecten found on nn the Desert............ 104 | Post em deposits. = ; u. 190
Pegmatite ان ی‎ i 57- | cula Riv . --33, 37
Peninsula, Sierra. esc cased RED 134, 137, 138 = ahi Hondo, or oon Well bion 96
Peninsula E Mis 1 3 Prase... és 155
- Peniletta fiL od 186 | Prasoid rocks 155
` Peroxide PT iron, Burns’ Creek 14 | Prickly pear : - 73, 76,79
Fotjetusl s mow, southern limit lau. zii nen 135 | Prionodon antiquus ------~--
Petricola Pedroana 186 | Production of wine at los Angeles ------------------ 7
Phoca. 4: | Puente rancho raro cerro ERA da Mai ara 79
186 | Puget Sound, coal from — تب‎ 287
187 | Pumice A e Valley anc ee 6
e RE: er the basalt at Fort Miller -------- 22
110,112 | Pumice and aes m ———— 272
: 257

Ponte LOmA l.l ام مدید جرج جر ما‎ dd ne

Page.
Purity of the air on the Desert 103
Pyrites 15
in slate 260
at Georgetown 274
Q.

Quarry at the States Prison 148
Quartz in slates 21

veins in the auriferous slates of the Bernardino

Sierra ;

in sandstone 155
at Georgetown 273
rock near Cave City 259
boulders or drift at Michigan City 265
mines and mills at Grass Valley 此 268
Quartzite in thick beds 27
Quartz Cafion 274

Quartzburg
On Cr dee |

8 42, 49, 12, 203
Douglasii 203
rryana 203
Macradenia, at the Tejon Pass 39, 203
crassipocula 203
imbricaria 126
Garryana 203
Hindsii 6, 39, 254
Qui Quai Mungo range 137
rancho 80

R
Rain at San Felipe 105

on the Desert

Raised beach at San Pedro 129, 130
Rancho of San Francisquito 71
Ranges of the Coast Mountains 139
Ravines in the clay of the Desert . ; 101
Red sandstone at Panama 2
and clay 104
Red clay of the Colorado river - 312
wine 75
Ridges of white limestone 52
Rio de los Angeles 13,15
Ripple-marks on the sand 95
on the blown sand of the Desert.......- 242
Rivers of the Tulare Valley 192
of the Great Basin 222, 223
of the California Valley - 143
River-drift along the Chagres River 2
ancient and auriliffóus .....:222-.42-52--- 277
Road from Cruces to Panama = 2
Rocks cut by driving sand 91,92
Rock Creek Ditch . 268
Bar Mining Company 35. 240
fing slates. eas RS
Haunded hills of Reticle cu. Asiens 4
Williamson’s Pass --------------- 62
near San Pasqual ekle EA

ra

8.
Sacramento 961
Sage bush 62,63
Salicornia. 48
Salinas ati valley of. 141
ge 39
Saline incio on the shores of the Tulare lakes.. 33
Salt Cr 104
Salt ... 309
Pond, or Casteca Lake 47
Sand, in the bed of Carrizo Creek 107
of the Desert, form of the grains -------------- 241
principal accumulations of 241

on the lee side of obstac 43‏ وی
cutting and polishing of rocks and Be by.91, -‏
Sand an a San Francisco‏

Sand Hills of the Colorado Desert............ 119, 120, =
extent of, determined by the terrace ...240, 241
outlines 0

relations to a railroad route 244
at Deep 96
Sand-beach near San Francisco 160
Sandstone of San Franci 4
of the Diablo Bange........ .....----.-- 9
of the valley of the Merced 12
forming table hills 14
underlying basalt 22

in rounded hills near White Creek. ........
f the Cafiada de las Uvas 48,49
Eocene, filled with fossils 46, 163
containing silicified stems 49

near the entrance to the Tah-ee-chay-pah
Pass 52
brecciated strata 55,56
in the Pass of San Francisquito.....-.- 57,58, 59
of Williamson’s Pass 70
of the San Fernan 72, 13, 7

ass
between San F En and Los Angeles... 75, =
of the Cajon Pass
strata, concretionary------------------ 103, =
of Carrizo Creek 122
of San Die
of San np and the vicinity---145, 156, 282
of the San Juan Mountains 152

of Bellingham Bay 153
metamorphosed, of San Francisco. -------- 155
imbedded in serpentine 158
at Chico Creek. -- - 173
at San Pedro
of the Great Basin, upraised.......---- 183, 184
of the Cafiada de las Uvas
of the Great Basin - 219
near Stockton and Knight's Bud ss 254
as a building material .--.--.------------ 282
of Benicia-- uss 283
Fort Ross---.--- 283
Sandstone hills along Carrizo Cre: ok 108
Sandstoue strata uplifted at the head of the Tulare
Valley ---------- 42, 45

X INDEX.
Page. Page,
Santa Anna River ......... 89 | Segregation in granite 208
Santa Barbara 130.187 Selenite 103
Santa Barbara, fossils of... - 179 | Septaria 175
San B tern Martes 137 | Sequoia gigantea 259
San Bernardino Pass 89,90 Serpentine used as a building stone 157
San Bruno Range 139 Serpentine near the Four Creeks 28
Santa Clara River à 49 Serpentine near San Francisco 151
Santa Cruz Range 139 | Serpentinoid rock 214
San Diego 3 ins and sandstone of San Francisco 146
San Diego Mission 128 hadows of the mountains Tm in inis lacu ss 100
` San Diego, tertiary strata of nn qun fossil at Oco eek 171
San Felipe 105, 107, 124 Shells on the surface of سین‎ Desert 97,101
San Fernando Mission $ 74 Shore-line of an Suena lake 97
San Francisco Shoberia calceolif 48
San Francisco, rocks of 145 | Shrinkage cracks in the soil 26
San Francisquito Rancho 71 | Sierra, use of the word 137
San Francisquito Passa 55 | Sierra Nevada, view of, from the Four Creeks ------- 25,26
San Francisco Range.....- 139 snow on 25
San Gorgoño Mountain 91 view of, from a hill in the Tulare plain. 28
San Gorgoño Mountain, view of, from Deep Well..... 96 from the Great Basin 54
San Gorgoño Pass 29,20 extent and altitude of the chain... ...- 134
Santa Isabel 125,126 its broken character at the Tejon.....- 197
San Joaquin River 144 influence on the climate of the Great
San José, valley of. 141 Basin ۲
San Juan Mountains, sandstone of 152 | Sierra de Santa Lucia 139
San Juan Range... 139 | Sierra Madre A 137
Santa Maria Rancho 126 | Signal mountain on the Desert >: AI
San Luis Obispo 130 Silica, bituminous a A30
Fan Luis Obispo, infusoria at 189 | Silicified wood 108, 263
San Pasqual 127 cut by moving sand - 108
San Pedro 76,129 of the Colorado Desert.......- 117, 120, 122
Satin spar 168 | Silicified plants, Cañada de las Uvas -. 49
Saw-mill 4 | Silicious infusoriaat Monterey - 181
i brupt: 186 | Silliman, Prof. Benjamin, jr., analysis of Cowlitz coal.. 287
Scirpus lacustris 191 Silt of the Colorado . 112
Scomberoides : : 172 Silver 5 . 301
Scorpion RE 34 Silver ore, supposed existence of 81
Schizotherus Nuttallii 186 | Silver, telluret of -. 302
Screw bean, or Tourniel 105 | Skeletons of cattle on the Desert مب‎ 110
Scutella interlineata 153 | Slopes of the Basin . 8
Scymnus occid 172 | Slopeof the Great Basin near Williamson’s Pini. — 63
Bon lion 4 of the Great Basin at the Tejon Pass ---.------- 52
Sebastian Military Reserve. 39 of the Peninsula Sierra to San Diego----------- 128
Section at Bear Creek 15 of the Desert from Carrizo Creek -------------- 108
of the valley of the San epa He aene e 22 of the Bernardino Sierra «c 0
of the strata at Ocoya C 35 Sloughs of the San Joaquin 10
of the valley of the Mojave 64 connecting the San Joaquin with the Tulare ۳9 =
of the Colorado River at Fort Yuma ......... 了
of the strata at Ocoya Creek 167 | Snow, southern limit of perpetual, on Bin teks Nevada =
- of infusorial strata at Monterey 181 BRA PRISAS 125
of the Sierra Nevada at the Tejon Pass....198,199 | Snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada..---------- 17
at the Tejon Ravine Soda, carbonate 0f ---- a 310
at the Cafiada de las Uvas 208 | Springs of the Colorado Desert.....-.-------- 94, 244, 245
of the terraces of the Desert 233 in the Grea in ;--- 52, 53, 54, 221, =
of the Sand Hills fing 241 | Squalus spinosus ....--.----~---------------"""-""
of auriferous drift at Sarahville 263 | Squaws gathering the Mezquite beans --.------------ 105
of a mining claim at Michigan City .......... 266 | Stair-like ascent of the mountains .-------------- 124, 126
of the auriferous deposits at Mameluke t 272 | Stalactites in the cave at Cave City ----------------- 260
of the coal strata at Bellingham Bay--------- 286 | Stanislaus River at Abbey's Ferry ------------------ 256

INDEX. XI
Page. Pago.
States Prison, quarry at 148- | The Springs, described by De Mofras 984
Steatitic slate 27 | Teeth of the mammoth and mastodon...........- 256,207
Steam from hot springs 106 | Tejon 39
Steamer Active, use of coal on board of 286 its position and boundaries 197
Stems of plants, fossil 36, 49 Creek 31.39
Soda Springs, Colorado Desert 245 ass 197
Sonora 254 | Telegraph Hill sandstone &
Soil of the Rounded Hills 7 | Tellina
of the Tejon 39 | Tellina congesta 176, 177,182
of the Tulare Valley 190 Diegoana 176
of Warner’s Valley 106 Ocoyana ----- 170
of the Desert near the Indian villages 99 Pedroana 186
at the Mojave Riv 85 173
of San Be ی‎ a analysisiof 4 cejas 82 | Telluret of silver 274
Spanish tr 63 Temperatures at Fort Miller 24
ee form of the grains of sand 120 of the hot springs at San Bernardino ... 38
masses of sendstone 9 of the hot springs at Warner'8........- 106
Spotted diggings 15 of the seasons at Fort Yuma .......... 251
Springs at Vallecito 105 | Teredo in fossil tree 12
in the Great Basin 182 | Terraces on the Tuolumne River 11
Stilbite 68 on the San Joaquin 20
Stimpson, William, specific characters of Scutelle in- near Dry Creek 25
terlineata, by 153 on King's River 25
253 along Posunculü River. nn e 33,91
Straits of Carquines ---: 5 in Williamson's Pass 69
Stramonita petrosa ------- 42, 88 Valley of San Bernardino 81
Stratum of مد‎ Carrizo Creek 108 in the Tejon Pass 208
Strephona Pedroa 186 of the Colorado Desert 233
Ate TES : 105 | Tertiary formations of the Isthmus 1,2
Structural arrangement of minerals in granite..... 199, 200 of 5,151
in lava 22 of Martinez 6
Submerged ranges of mountains 139 of Livermore: Vase. a0 ct cla 9
ubmergence of the Coast Mountains 23 of the valley of the San Joaquin -12, 15
Sulphuret of antimony 43 of Ocoya or Pose Creek. .31, 33, 34, 35,
Sulphuretted hydrogen 95 164, 165-173

in the water of Ocoya Creek---. 34
in the water at Agua Caliente.. 106
10

Sunflowers
Sun-cracks in the soil 5 T
in the strata at San Pedro 178
Susannah range 75
Swiftsure tunnel 3 273
Sycotopu anus 170
Syenita 18
` Johnson's r 63
` graphic of SS 8 Pass 71
Syenitic granite at Fort Miller 20
near White Creek 29
between Aüburn and Coloma 210

T,

Table Hills near the Merced 12
near Fort Miller 17,18
Table Mountains near Fort Miller 22
Table Mountains 277
Talcose slates 59
alcose an d clay slates of the Gold Region 275
Talcose and chloritic slates 254

Tar Springs 76

of the southern extremity t the
Jem bes 45,164
Francisquito 57, 58,59

da the ar of the Basin near

William S PAM. Lacs 62, 63
San ببس‎ Pass 73,107
at the Cajon Pass 87

of the Colorado Desert 102
of Carrizo Creek 122, 175,176
at Punta Loma and " spor -128, 176

152

of Navy Point, Benicia --.-----2-
Eocene 164
Mioceve 165,172, 179

Chico Creek

of Los Angeles and San Pedro--177, sis
of Monterey 180
of the Great Basil ..-.-......... 185
general observations on.........- 187
of the Tejon 207
of the Gold Region 277
Thermal springs of San Bernardino 83
Tooth of the mammoth 186
Torrey, Dr. John, description of a new DAR AGERE a ME 88
'Tournil or screw 105

XII INDEX.
Page. Page.
Tourmalines of gigantic size 124,304 | Valleys of erosion in slate 278
Tradition of a former sheet of water Vancouver’s Island coal 287
Transverse chain of mountains 51,54,55,133 | Variegated marls and clays 50
Trap rock on the Isthmus 2 | Vegetables at San Bernardino 82
Trap dyke, Williamson's Pass 69 | Vegetation of the slope of the Great Basin 63
near San Diego 6 128 of the valley of the Mojave 64
Trap rocks between Auburn and Coloma : 271 of Johnson’s River 65
Trappean rocks near Moore’s Creek 29,30 of the Great Basin and valley of San Fer-
on the shores of the Golden Gate ----- 156 nando compared 81
Trappean or erupted rock near San Fernando. ........ 75 of the Cajon Pass at the Hot Spring------- 95
Travertin of San Felipe Creek 124 absence of, on the Desert 95
of the shores of the Ancient Lake 239 at Warner’s 106
of San Felipe Creek 240 along the bottom land of the Four Creeks.. 27
of Pilot Knob 240 Vein of copper ore 66
Trees bent by the wind 8 Williamson’s Pass 69
Trend of the Sierra Nevada 134 of granite 22
Trigonia in the strata of Volcano Ridge ............. 174 uar 13
Trochus 152,154 | Venerupis e 186
Trochita Diegoana 176 | Vermillion 237
Tropical vegetation View of the E from the Point of Rocks 100
Trowbridge, Lieut. W. P., section of the coal strata of Vineyards at Los Angeles >
Bellingham Bay at San Gabriel 79
Tulares of the San Joaquin 10 Volcanoville 274
Tulare lakes 191 Voleanic ashes 173
rivers flowing into 144 ۰ breccia 55,56
Tulare Valley 33, 143 rocks, near the summit of the Cañada de las
general appearance of :......1..--.... 190 Uvas
near the San Joaquin River-........... 24 sand at Fort Miller - 22
former submergence of 193 | Volcano Ridge, Tertiary of < pis

rapidity of E from the surface
of the lake 193
resemblance سس‎ and the valley of
Colorado rt

Tulare plains and the Colorado Desert compared...... 144
Tulé 191
River, metamorphic rocks near 28
Tuna, or Indian fig 74,76,79
Tuolumne River. 11
Quartz Company
Turritella 1,73, 152, 154
Ocoyana ET
uU.

Union Water Company, aqueduct of. ................ 257
Uplifted sandstone 86
v.

Vallecito 105, 107, 123

gd = the Colorado
Lake Elizabeth 57
San Bernardino 80
NONOUI RA A 80,81
of Santa Isabel 126
of San José 141
of San Pasqual 137
Valleys of California 142
of the Coast Mountains................ un MI

Volcanoes, extinct, probable presence of, in the Great

W.

Warner’s Pass ± 105
Warner’s Valley owe EU
Warm springs at Warner’s -. 106
at the Mojave sud 85
Washington Tunnel Company.....-...------------- 213
Water of Deep Well, Colorado Desert..-------------- 97
absence of, on the Desert......-------------- 103
odor of, at a distance --..-.----------------- 103
evaporation of----------------------------- 195
sources of, on the Colorado Desert u. 246
quality o jor ar
loan Wells. بمب بدا ی مد‎ nee 248
I ut Uo NER. nun nun 97
n the rocks of the Desert, dividi of.... 238

Waterfall near the grove of mammoth trees. --------- 5
Waterfalls, former existence of, along the San Joaquin. 24
Weav B onis aic ne ee 89
poU a a ee 90

Well dug by Indians ee 96
at Alamo Mochi 2 << - ---- -- -------- == er 109
Wells of the Desert: -- === + + ان‎ 245
WE ia nenn nee 57
White limestone - 2.0 cen en nnn nn en 88
en مسبت‎ at the entrance of the Cañada de > ü

۳1

Page.
White limestone of Pons and the vicinity.......... 255 E ter at the Tejon a 7
te oak, (Q. Hindsii) 6 | Wolf, or coyote, of California 5
Wild cattle : 61 ۳۹
Wild geese 40 4
Wild oats 3,4, 128 3.
dim plum ---- 88 Yucca or bayonet tree 52,55, 63

= Wind, its action on trees - 8 >
E strong eurrent of, from the ocean to the interior 8
E from the Sierra N g - 28 | Zoolitic minerals 5 Ei 68

Wine at San Fernando ..................-..--.---. 75 | Zygobates ...------ si "m -
st los Angel. nun وب انم‎ VE dd A E

r ae

AE UE

deme pce

PARET EH.

IU

ot TE S

+

*

" +

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. -
SEHON BE RIESE.

ROUTES IN CALIFORNIA, TO CONNECT WITH THE ROUTES NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH AND THIRTY
PARALLELS, EXPLORED BY LIEUT. R. ی‎ WON, CORPS TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853.

PORT

E. DURAND AND T. C. HILGARD, M. D.

WASHINGTON, D. C.
1855.

Dm

Mos Tide mti ia
۲ x

DESCRIPTION OF PLANTS COLLECTED UPON THE EXPEDITION.

RANUNCULACEA.

CLEMATIS LIGUSTICIFOLIA, Nutt. in Torr. & Gr. Flora, vol. 1, p. 9; Gray's Pl. Fendl., p. 3.
Pose creek ; August and September.

PAPAVERACEZ.

ARGEMONE MUNITA, nova species. Planta glaucissima, erecta, tenera, aculeis albis retrorsis
horrens, circa 23 pedalis. Folia subamplexicaulia elongato-cordata valde repando-sinuata
undulata lobis rotundatis. Flores in apicibus 3-4 conferti, breviter divaricateque pedunculati.
Calyx 3-sepalus caducus setosus, quoque sepalo cornuto, cornu in aculeum validum desinente.
Corolla 6-petala maxima, 3—4" diametro ; petalis cuneato-obovatis margine denticulatis albis
recte venosis. Germen lanceolato-cylindricum, aculeis rectis dense obtectum. Capsula adhuc
ignota.

Stem branching, about 2] feet high. The whole plant very glaucous and, chiefly on the
Stems and margins of the leaves, densely covered with strong and slightly retrorse prickles.
Leaves subelasping, elongate-cordate, with oblong rounded lobes deeply repando-sinuate and
undulate. Flowers in clusters of 3-4 on short divaricate peduncles. Calyx 3-sepalous, prickly,
each sepal bearing a horn terminating in a strong prickle. Corolla 3-4” in diameter; petals
six, white, veined, with slightly denticulate margins. Germ lanceolate-cylindrical, densely
covered with erect prickles. Capsule unknown.

The specimens submitted to our examination are incomplete, and not sufficiently advanced to
determine the shape of the mature capsule and seed. We have compared it with various forms
of A. Mexicana and with the figure of Lindley’s A. grandiflora in Bot. Reg. T. 1264. In ours
the texture is more delicate than in A. Mexicana, and the habitus of the leaves and branches
is less acute than in either, being more rounded and undulating ; the peduncles are shorter,
stouter, and more divaricate. It grows in large patches at Williamson’s Pass, and was in full
bloom in August and September.

CRUCIFERAE.

PACHYPODIUM INTEGRIFOLIUM, Nutt. in Torr. Æ Gr.'s Flora, vol. 1, p. 96. Edge of Mohave
desert ; September. |

STANLEYA INTEGRIFOLIA, Torr. in Capt. Sitgreaves’ Report, T. 1. Posé creek; August. Dr.
Torrey's S. integrifolia differs from James's plant by pedicels much shorter dati the stipes ; in
the latter, the pedicels are half as long as the stipes.

6 BOTANY.

ZYGOPHYLLACEAE.

LARREA MEXICANA, Moric. in Gray’s Gen. Ill., vol. 2, T. 147; L. glutinosa, Engelm. App.
Wisliz., p. 93. Zygophyllum tridentatum, D. C., 1 Fl. Mex. A very common resinous shrub,
known in the far west by the name of kreosote plant, on account of its very strong smell. The
resin of this shrub, collected by the Pimos Indians, is formed by them into balls which they
kick and send before them with their feet, as they journey from one point to the other of their
trail. i
MALVACEÆ.

SIDALCEA MALVÆFLORA, Gray’s Pl. Wright. part 1, p. 16; S. Neo-Mexicana, Gray's ۰
Fendl., p. 23. Sida malvæflora, Moc. and Sesse. Posé creek ; September.

MALVASTRUM MARRUBIOIDES, nova species. Circa bipedalis erecta, tomento stellato albida.
Folia petiolata, late-ovata basi truncata vix, triloba, crenato-dentata, subtus reticulato-venosa.
Stipulæ lineares. Calycis laciniis ovato-lanceolatisacuminatis. Flores glabri rosei, in paniculis
brevibus axillaribus 3-5-floris glomerati ac in spicam terminalem desinentes.

Plant erect, about two feet high, covered with a dense stellate tomentum, of two different
sizes, that gives it a pale color and a sandy feel. Leaves petiolate, broadly ovate, truncate at
the base, subtrilobate, crenate-dentate, reticulately veined underneath. Stipules linear. Seg-
ments of the calyx ovate-lanceolate acuminate. Flowers smooth, rose-colored, glomerate in
short panicles of 3-5 in the axils of the leaves and merging into a terminal spike. Fort Miller;
July. : E

LEGUMINOSAE.

HOSACKIA LATHYROIDES, nova species. Herba cespitosa, basi ramosa, caulibus subflexuosis,
minute pubescens. Folia imparipinnata, foliolis 5-7 lineari-lanceolatis utrinque acutis. - Stipul®
minute scariosee ovate acuminate. Umbelle 1-3-flore, bracteá lineari-lanceolatá in parciori-
bus. Flores subsessiles 5” longi, flavi, calycis dentibus lineari-acutis.

Herbaceous aná cespitose, branching near the base, rather flexuose, minutely pubescent.
Leaves imparipinnate; leaflets 5-7 linear-lanceolate, acute at both ends. Stipules rudimentary,
membranaceous, ovate acuminate; umbels 1-8-flowered ; bract (only on the poorer umbels)
linear-lanceolate. Flowers 5” long, light yellow; teeth of the calyx linear-lanceolate.
Resembles somewhat the figure of Lotus pinnatus, Hook. in Bot. Mag. T. 2913, than which,
however, it has longer and narrower leaves. Fort Miller, on the banks of San Joaquin river ;
August.

Hosackra HEERMANNT, H. decumbens, var. glabriuscula? Hook. de Arn. in Torr. & Gray's F l.
vol. 1, p. 324. Suffrutex sat regulariter ramulosus, omnino puberulus, 14-2 pedalis, Ramuli
tenues subflexuosi foliosi umbellosi, internodiis foliorum fere longitudine. Folia fere omnia
umbellam in axillo gerentia—imparipinnata, foliolis 3-5 alternantibus, rhomboideo-ovatis acutis
mucronulatis pubescentibus ; stipulis minutis fusiformibus rubicundis lanugine alba celatis.
Umbellarum pedunculi rachidis folii fere longitudine, 2-4-6-flori foliolumque solitarium ferentes.
Flores subsessiles. Calyx campanulato-tubulosus pubescens, laciniis acutissimis. Corolla parva
_ flava, petalis gracilibus obtusis, apice fusco-purpurascentibus. Legumen pubescens, pendulum,
incurvum, rostro subrefracto subulato apice uncinato vixque dimidiá leguminis longitudine.
. . femina 1-2. Ab. H. decumbente distinguitur formê ramosiore ac pubescentiá densiore, foliis

mucronulatis, stipulis haud spinosis, umbellarum pedunculis multo brevioribus, flore minori

apice purpurascenti leguminibusque ecarinatis,

BOTANY. 7

Suffruticose, pretty regularly branching, softly pubescent throughout, 14-2 feet high;
branchlets leafy and umbellose, subflexuous, with internodes scarcely as long as the leaves.
Leaves imparipinnate; leaflets 3-5, rhombic-ovate, acute, mucronulate, mostly alternate.
Stipules minute, fusiform, tomentose ; umbel stipitate, shorter than the leaf, 2-4-6-flowered,
with an oval bract in it. Flowers small, subsessile, yellow with purplish tips. Calyx
tubulate-campanulate. Legumen 1-2-seeded, pubescent, pendulous, incurved, with a subulate
uncinate and somewhat refracted rostrum. Differs from H. decumbens by being more branched
and pubescent, by mucronate leaves, stipules not spinose, peduncles of the umbels considerably
shorter, smaller flowers with purpurescent tips and by legumes not carinate and mostly one-
seeded. Tejon Pass; September.

HosackrA PURSHIANA, Benth., Torr. and Gray's Flora, vol. i, p. 327. Lotus sericeus, Pursh.
Trigonella Americana, Nutt. A very variable species in its pubescence and in the size of its
leaves. Our plant is one of its smallest forms. Posé creek ; August.

Lupinus GRACILIS, Agardh., in Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 372. Lupinus microphylla,
Nutt. Abundant in the vicinity of Benicia; July.

LUPINUS PERENNIS? Linn. Too young to determine with certainty. Same locality as above.

ROSACEA,
Rosa FRAXINIFOLIA, Bork., Torr. and Gray’s Folia, vol. 1, p. 460. Fort Miller; July.

LYTHRACEE,

LYTHRUM ALATUM, var. linearifolium, Gray’s Pl. Lindh., part 2, p. 188. Abundant in the
bottoms of the Tajon Pass ; September.
ONAGRACEE,
ZAUSCHNERIA CALIFORNICA, Presl. in Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 486. Pos6 creek;
August.
EPILOBIUM COLORATUM, Muhl. in Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 489. E. tetragonum,
Pursh. Pose creek ; August.

CENOTHERA RHOMBIPETALA? Nutt. in Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 493. Our specimens
have no leaves, but only foliaceous bracts, at the tip of the branches, a little longer than the cap-
sules ; flowers yellow, very large, with rhomboid-ovate petals a little shorter than the style.
Tube of the calyx long and slender. A tall and robust plant, very branching, 5-6-feet high,
abundant on the bars of streams. Fort Miller; July.

GoDETIA (CENOTHERA) WILLIAMSONI, nova species. Erecta 1-2 pedalis gracilis sublignosa, epi-
dermide nitido-flavescente; foliis circa pollicaribus albidis lineari-lanceolatis vix runcinatis
obtusis basi attenuatis, alternantibus fasciculatisque. Flores in spicis brevibus (et lateralibus)
flexuosis 1-14 pollicares; parte germinali minute hirsuta ovato-lanceolata costata, infundibuli
fundo-ciliata, limbi laciniis reliquum calycem vix semipollicarem subaequantibus, petalis
obovatis pollicaribus minutissime denticulatis flavis, magna apice macula violacea obovata et
secus marginem semilunariter decurrente; staminibus alternatim inequalibus, longioribus
petalafere equantibus; stigmate lobis recurvatis ciliatis rubicundis mediam maculam superante.
Capsula prismatica albida glabra j^; pollicaris, breviter rostrata utrinque obtusa, costis octo
quasi alata, seminibus fuscis prismaticis truncatis apice margine scarioso coronatis.

Slender, 1-2 feet high, with a glossy light-yellowish bark ; leaves narrow, somewhat fleshy,

8 BOTANY.

whitish, scarcely runcinate, often fascicled, about an inch long ; spikes crowded on short lateral
branches; flowers more than 1 inch in length; petals yellow, with a large deeply violet spot
on top, obovate and reaching nearly down to the middle of the petals, and with a semi-lunar
expansion along the upper margin. Stamens about half the length of the style, and nearly the
height of the petals. Capsule light colored, glabrous, prismatic, obtuse at both ends, rostrate,
winged with 8 projecting ribs approximated by pairs, seeds chocolate color, prismatic obtuse,
with a scarious crown. Fort Miller; July.

CLARKIA ELEGANS, Lindl. in Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 515. Phceostoma Douglasii,
Spach. Posé creek; August.

LOASACEZE.

MENTZELIA LEVICAULIS, Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 535. Bartonia levicaulis, Dougl.
Fort Miller; July.

UMBELLIFERE.

SIUM LINEARE, Mich. Torr. and_Gray’s Flora, vol. 1, p. 611. Sium tenuifolium, Muhl. ۰
latifolium, Darl. Pose creek; August.

CAPRIFOLIACER.

SAMBUCUS VELUTINA, nova species. Frutex 5-6 pedalis, velutino-tomentosus, foliis supra niti-
dissimis. Foliola 5-7 ovato-lanceolata basi angustiori in lateralibus, obliqua medioque subcor-
data—acuta, argute-serrulata, dentium apice scarioso, supra nitida et in sicco minute corrugata,
nervis parallelis sulcata. Corymbus parvus 4-5 radiatus. Eodem tempore eodemque ramo
flores, fructum immaturum maturumque atro-rubentem, gustugrato similique rubi fructui
exhibens. ; |

Stem fruticose 5-6 feet high, densely tomentose throughout, excepting the upper surface of
the leaves, which is shining and furrowed with the ribs. Folioles 5-7 ovate-lanceolate, finely
serrate, coriaceous. Corymb small, 4—5-radiate. Berries deep purple when ripe, agreeable to
the taste and almost equal to the black berry. It bears flowers, green and ripe fruit on the
same branches. Posé creek; August. >

RUBIACEE.

CEPHALANTHUS OCCIDENTALIS, Zinn. Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 31. Growing on the
edge of creeks. Tejon valley ; August.

COMPOSITE.

CARPHEPHORUS JUNCEUS, Benth. Growing 3-4 feet high in sandy plains and bush. Tejon

Pass and Tulare valley ; August. |

BRICKELLIA WRIGHTIL, Gray’s Pl. Wright. part 2, p. 72. Pose creek; August. :

ConETHROGYNE TOMENTELLA, Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 99. In some of our specimens

with inflorescence much developed, a very striking appearance is produced by the very dense

and white tomentum being abruptly replaced by a green glandular and viscous pubescence on

. the inflorescence. Leaves on the lower part of the branches linear-oblong, appressed and closely

=~ sessile; those of the top of the stem broadly obovate obtuse ; those of the branches small and
. bractike. Tejon valley ; September. Ts |

BOTANY. 9

GUTTIERREZIA MICROCEPHALA, Gray, Pl. Fendl. p. 74, ordn. Brachyris microcephala, D. C.
Prodr. vol. 5, p. 313. Our specimens being dry and advanced in florition, the heads of flowers,
which in the genus Guttierrezia are always more or less ovoid, appear loosely turbinate, with
straight and very concave scales. Tejon valley ; September.

Aster Durandi, Nutt. Gambel’s plants. Posé creek ; September.

ASTER CARNEUS, Nees ; Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 133. Posé creek; September.

Aster * * * aff. punicei. Too young for study. Scales of the EYIN linear subulate,
loosely imbricated. Achene compressed, pappus pilose. Fort Miller ; July.

ASTER DIVARICATUS, (TRIPOLIUM,) Nutt. Torr. and Gray's Flora, id 2, p. 163. Posé creek ;
September. |

SOLIDAGO CALIFORNICA, Nutt. Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 203. Posé creek; August.

SOLIDAGO ANGUSTA, Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 204. Tejon valley ; September.

LESSINGIA GERMANORUM, Cham. in D. C. Prodromus, vol. 5, p. 35. Posé creek ; September.

LINOSYRIS CERUMINOSA, (nova species.) Erecta 2-3-pedalis, fastigiato-ramosa ; ramulis foliis-
que substantia resinosa spissa ochroleuco-nitentibus. Internodia superiora vix 3-4 lineis longa.
Folia linearia subcarnosa “puberula, sulco superne longitudinali, dorso rotundata; caulina
interdum pollicaria, ramealia 3-6” long deorsum incurva. Capitula in apice conferta
breviter pedicellata. Squamis involucralibus carinatis, filiformi-mucronatis, flavescentibus.

Stem erect 2-3 feet high, fastigiately branched, with crowded heads on short pedicles, forming
a corymb. The whole surface of the stalks is covered with a short, apparently dense, tomentum,
infiltrated with a yellowish resinous substance, giving it a texture of ear-wax of a greenish-
golden hue. Internodes of the branchlets 3—4 lines. Leaves linear, puberulent, subcarnose,
rounded on the back, with a furrow on the upper surface, about one inch long on the stem,
half an inch or less, and recurved on the branches. Scales of the involucre carinate, light
yellow, darkening towards the filiform mucro. Tejon Pass ; September.

LINOSYRIS TERETIFOLIA, (nova species.) Fruticulus 8-12 pollicaris corymbosus, ericæ facie,
resinoso-vernicatus, balsamum canadense redolens, cumuliformis fruticeta que vasta sistens.
Trunculi emarcido-grisei, ramulis ochraceis punctatis, internodiis brevibus, naviculato-depressis,
marginatis, filiformibus dense foliosis. Folia 4-1-pollicaria filiforme-teretia obtusa, superne
pauxillum sulcata, sque ac ramuli, fusco-viridia et epidermide maxime viscido-resinosa
induta. Capitula flava in summo spiculata subsessilia, squamis involucralibus obtusis apice
glanduloso-gibbo. j

A small shrub, strongly varnished and smelling of fir balsam, covering extensive tracts of
land, like the common heath of Europe, and presenting a corymbose a darkly-green with
filiform, erect, dotted and scabrous leaves and branches, both alike, with crowded yellow heads
of flowers. The lower branches have a grey and mealy, the upper a bright ochre-yellow dotted
rind, with the internodes navicularly depressed and costately bordering ridges. Leaves obtuse,

1-1} line long. Heads of flowers subsessile, aggregated into dense terminal spikelets and
clusters, forming a corymb. All over the mountains around Tejon valley ; September.

APLOPAPPUS MENZIESIT, Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 242. Tejon Pass; September.

BACCHARIS CERULASCENS, D. C. Prodr., vol. 5, p. 402. A shrub from 6-10 feet high, resem-
bling a willow, and growing on the edge of streams. Posé creek and Tejon Pass; September.

PLucuea rata, D. C. Torr. and Gray's Flora, vol. 2, p. 261. Baccharis fostida, Linn. ;

Pursh. Tejon Pass; September.
ee EN iE Linn. e and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 294. Pose oroek ; August.
2D

10 | BOTANY.

HELIANTHUS PETIOLARIS, Nutt. Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 319. Pos& creek; August.

HELIANTHUS DORONICOIDES? A glaucous variety, with striate purple stems, from 6-10 feet
high. Tejon valley; September.

HEMIZONIA ANGUSTIFOLIA, D. C. Torr. and Gray's Flora, vol. 2, p. 398. Fort Miller; July.

HEMIZONIA PUNGENS, Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 399. In flower and fruit. Pose
creek; August and September. |

el MACRADENIA, D. C. Torr. and Gray's pd vol. 2, p. 400. Tejon valley; Sep-
tember.

ARTEMISIA DRACUNCULOIDES, Pursh. Torr. and Gray’s a vol. 2, p. 416. Abundant in the
Tejon valley and all over the country; August and September.

ARTEMISIA DOUGLASIT, Bess. Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 420. With the above; also
very common.

GNAPHALIUM SPRENGELII, Hook and Arn. ; ور‎ and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 447. G. luteo-
album, Var.; occidentalis, Nutt. Posé SR August.

SENECIO LONGILOBUS, Var. glabrescens, Gray, Pl. Wright, No. 399. Posé creek; August.

STEPHANOMERIA PANICULATA, Nutt. in Torr. and Gray’s Flora, vol. 2, p. 473. Tall and branch-
ing; growing in large patches. King's river; July.

OLEACEAE.

FRAXINUS JUGLANDIFOLIA, Var. integrifolia, Lam. in D. C. Prodr., vol. 8, p. 278. Fraxinus
viridis, Mich. A large spreading tree on the edge of streams. Pos& creek; August.

APOCYNEE.

APOCYNUM CANNABINUM, Var. lanceolatum, nova varietas. Leaves lanceolate, acute at both
ends; very glabrous. River bottoms, Pos& creek ; August.

ASCLEPIADEA.

_ ASCLEPIAs MACROPHYLLA, Nutt. Var. comosa, nova varietas. Tota planta, exceptis pedunculis,
pedicellis umbellarumque involucellis pubescentibus, glaberrima glauca. Caulis gracilis
bipedalis subflexuosus erectus, internodiis aliquoties bipollicaribus. Folia spithamea, ad pri-
mum quemque nodum opposita, ceterum ternatim verticillata, in sicco conduplicata, margin-
ibus haud revolutis. Ramuli singuli vel bini in verticellis exiles, dense foliosi. Umbellse
bine vel trine in verticillis supremis, pedunculis sesquipollicaribus, involucris lineari brac-
teatis, floribus parvis, numerosis, (usque ad quadraginta,) mediam folii partem vix squantes.
Pedicelli dimidia pedunculorum longitudine. Flores virescentes, albido marginati nec fusci.
Corollz lobi ovato-lanceolati concavi, resurgentes margine albo. Corone stamineæ stipes eadem
ac loborum longitudine; lobi producti, breves obtusi, processibus cultriformibus, cristas con-
nectivorum albo scariosas aaquantibus.

Stem erect, slender, rather flexuose, about 2 feet high ; leaves a span long, linear, smooth,
doubled up without revolute margins, in whorls of three, except at the lowest node of each
shoot, where they are opposite—internodes 2” or more long, each with one or more slim and
densely-leaved branchlets, giving it a comose appearance. Umbels 2-3 in each of the upper
whorls, scarcely half the length of the leaf, with pedicels half the length of the peduncles, and,
together with the involucral bracts, somewhat tomentose. Stipe of the staminal crown, about
thelength of its lobes, claws cultriform, erect, as high as the white tips of the connectives.
Perhaps a new species ?

BOTANY. 11

It differs from Nuttall's description of 4. macrophylla, in Gambel's Plants, by its tomentose
pedicels, leaves more approximated, denser umbels, and the absence of brown color in its flowers.
Grows abundantly in river bottoms. . Pose creek; August.

. GENTIANA.

ERYTHREA TRICANTHA, Griseb. in D. C. Prodr., vol. 9, p. 60, (nova var.) Our plant is inter-
mediary between E. tricanthu and E. Muhlenbergii, all, probably, being varieties of one species.
A very ar and beautiful little plant. Fort Miller; July.

POLEMONIACEE.

GILIA ELONGATA? Stend. in D. €. Prod., vol. 9, p. 30. Our plant differs from D. C.'s de-
scription by being scarcely puberulent, although the capitula are densely lanate, by having
mostly four segments on each side of the leaves, and by the tube of the corolla being much
exserted. Tulare valley; August.

CONVOLVULACEE.

CUSCUTA SUBINCLUSA, (nova species.) Flores dense glomerati subsessiles. Calyx subovatus,
lobis late ovatis obtusis imbricatis. Corolla primodum tubo cylindrico limbo, patente ; deinde
germine aucto fauceque marcescente contracta, sublageniformis; segmenta ovata, latiora supra
basim, dimidia tubi longitudine. Anthere elongate, infra angulis subsessiles, semi-inclusw.
Filamenta antheris breviora. Squamelle marginibus parallelis maxime ad apicem fimbriatis,
conniventes. Germen biapiculato-globosuin, bistyle. Styli duplo fere germine longiores, tubi
longitudine, subincquales, stigmata capitata.

Flowers subsessile in dense clusters. Calyx subovate, with broadly oval-obtuse and imbri-
cated lobes. Tube of the corolla cylindrical and afterwards rather lageniform by the increase
of the germ and shrinking of the fauces. Lobes of the limb ovate, broadest above the base,
half the length of the tube. Anthers subsessile under the dividing angles, half included.
Filaments shorter than the anthers. Scales parallel-sided, fringed chiefly on the top, conni-
vent. Germ globose, bi-apiculate with two styles about double the length of the germ, rather
unequal; stigmas capitate. On a willow. Tejon Pass; September.

CUSA 24. Probably the same as the above, but of smaller size, (for want of nourish-
ment?) and past full florition. Grows on Artemesia dracunculoides, same locality.

۱ BORAGINEE.

HELIOTROPIUM CURASSAVICUM, Linn. in D. C. Prodr., vol. 9, p. 558. Muddy localities, Tejon
valley ; August.

SCROPHULARIACEJE.

ANTIRRHINUM CORNUTUM, Benth. Pl. Hartw., p. 328. Pose creek; August.

ANTIRRHINUM CouLTERIANUM, Benth. Var. appendiculatum, (nova var.) Differs from the de-
Scription in D. C. Prodr., vol. 9, p. 529, by the shortness of the peduncles; stem simple,
erect, glanduloso-pubescent, violet-colored below; leaves on short petioles, ovate lanceolate,
smooth ; many sterile setiform branches, bracteate at top, springing from the axils; flowers
in a RE? raceme, almost subsessile. Calyx and corolla strongly pubescent, upper seg-
ment of the calyx broadly lanceolate, the rest linear lanceolate. Perhaps a new species.

Posé creek ; August.

12 BOTANY.

PENTSTEMON HETEROPHYLLUS, Lindl. in Bot. Heg. T. 1899; D. C. Prodr., vol. X, p. 330. Tejon
Pass, on mountain sides ; September.

MIMULUS CARDINALIS, Dougl. in D. C. Prodr., vol. X, p. 370; Curt. Bot. Mag. T. 3560.
Along streams, Fort Miller and Tejon Pass; August. |

MimuLUsS ScouLERI, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am., vol. IT, p. 100. Might be referred to M. luteus, of
which it seems to be but a small form. Posé creek; August.

MIMULUS EXILIS, nova species. —Herba circa pedalis erecta gracillima, ad apicem vix paulum
ramosa, exsucca, sparse villosa. Caulis teres, jam prope basim et abinde flores singulos vel
oppositos pedunculis setiformibus foliaque superantibus prodens. impiam 1-14” longa.
Folia opposita sessilia elliptico-lanceolata, 2" longa. Calyx inflato t b latus (?)
oblique quinquefidus, segmentis acutis, inferioribus majoribus latioribuan tn, demi magis
inflatus. Corolla 4" longa, flava, limbo parvo, fauce pilosa maculata. Stamina inclusa. Cap-
sula membranacea ovato-lanceolata subacuminata, calycem demum equans. Semina parva
ovata, testa granulata. Herba habitu a reliquo genere Mimulo satis diversa. Forsan subgenus
vel genus novum (Cerastodium?) instituendum.

. A slender erect herb, sparsely villous, a foot or more high, not succulent. Stem terete, fili-
form, a little branched near the top. Internodes one to nearly two inches long. Leaves sessile,
elliptico-lanceolate. Peduncles setiform, longer than theleaves. Calyx oblique, subangular (?)
deeply fivecleft, at first campanulate, and finally inflated. Corolla 4" long, yellow, limb
small, fauces pilose, spotted. Stamens included. Capsules membranaceous, ovate-lanceolate
pointed, finally equalling the calyx, #’ long; seeds small, ovate, testa granulate. Habitus
rather different from that of the genus Mimulus. Posé creek, August.

CASTILLEJA CANDENS, nova species.—Herba circa pedalis erecta, nonnunquam ramosa, basi
glabra, supra cinereo-pubescens, bracteis calycibusque omnino rubentibus, basibus obscuris, api-
cibus fulgentibus ; corollis glaberrimis, maxime exsertis, pallide atroflavis cunctisque nigricante
venosis. Folia circa pollicaria, inferiora integra, linearia, acuta; csetera profunde tripartita,
trinervia, segmentis linearibus ; floralia latiora, apicibus acuminato-lacinulatis. Calyx 14-13”,
subinflatus bifidus, lobis lanceolato-bidentatis. Corolla fere bipollicaris striata, labio superiori
seepe pollicari, inferiori rudimentario.

Herbaceous, erect, about a foot high, and, except towards the base, grayish puberulent ;
less so on the lower surface of the leaves. Leaves 1” or more long, and, as well as
their segments, linear, the lower ones entire, acute; all others tripartite, trinerved ; those
of the inflorescence broader and acuminately adi Rate at their apex ; the upper, as well
as the calyx, entirely red and darkly veined, dusky at the base, scarlet at the top. Calyx 14 to
13" long, subinflated, bifid, each lobe lanceolately bidentate. Corolla 2" long, smooth, of light
fuscous yellow, with black veins ; the lower lip ET, the upper often 1” long. In
river bottoms, Pose creek ; August. y

CorDYLAÑTHUS FILIFOLIUS, Nutt. in D. C. Prodr., vol. X, p. 597; Adenostegia rigida, Benth. .
Posé creek ; August.

LABIAT E.

了 Po6oGYNE Dovarasi, Benth. in D. C. Prodr., vol. XII, p. 243. Fort Miller ; July.
TRICHOSTEMA LANCEOLATUM, Benth. Lab. in D. C. Prodr., vol. XII, p. 573. A remarkably
fragrant plant. Fort Miller; July.

BOTANY. 13

SOLANACEJE.

SOLANUM PTEROCAULUM, Dunal in D. C. Prodr., vol. XIII, sect. 1, p.52. Posé creek; July.

SoLANUM ÜALIFORNICUM ? Dunal in D. C. Prodr., vol. XIII, sec. 1, p. 86. A spreading plant
not over a foot high, with purplish black berries and large light purple flowers. Fort Miller;
July.

Datura METEL, Linn. in D. O. Prodr., vol. XIII, sec. 1, p. 543. Abundant at Fort Miller
and upwards; July.

SALSOLACER. .

OBIONE OCCIDENTALIS, Mog. in D. C. Prodr., vol. XIII, sec 11, p. 112. Side hills, abundant
in southern California; August.

OBIONE BarcLayana? Benth. in D. O. Prodr., vol. XIII, sec. 11, p. 112. Differs by the
petioles being 1-3" long. We have only the male flowers. Growing in bushes, rounded in
their forms, about six feet high. Branches numerous, forming a thick and dense mass. Posé
creek ; August.

ÜBIONE BRACTEOSA, nova species. Planta herbacea, 2-3-pedalis, oleracea farinoso-lepidota,
monoica. Rami sulcati, apicibus masculiferis paniculatis ; parte inferiori foliosa et singulis
axillis spicam foemineam bracteosam prodentes. Internodia 4” vel minora. Folia fusco-viridia
glauca membranacea, sessilia, lanceolata acuminata mucronata, passim dentata vel integra,
pollicaria vel minora, superne minus lepidota. Florum masculorum glomeruli globosi, in spicas
laxiores, paniculum ebracteatum terminalem constituentes, dispositi. Flores feminei in brac-
tearum axillis glomerati; bractes attenuate, maxime acutate, albido-lepidote. Thece imma-
ture 1" longe, subgloboso-lenticulares, reticulate, cristis foliaceis muricatz, alate acuteque
apicatæ. i

An herbaceous moncecious plant, 2-3 feet high, with furrowed branches about a foot or more
long. The top nearly destitute of leaves, branching into a panicle composed of simple inter-
rupted spikes of globosely-glomerate male flowers, and the lower part bearing in the axil of each
leaf a bracteose spike of female flowers. Internodes i" or less. Leaves oleraceous, sessile,
lanceolate acuminate, mucronate, sparsely dentate or entire, 1” or less long, darkish, rather
glaucous, less lepidote on the upper surface. Female spikes crowded with attenuated and
strongly pointed whitish lepidote bracts. The immature thece orbicularly subglobose, reticu-
lated, winged, muricated, and acutely tipped with jagged leafy crests. Growing in large
bushes in bottom lands. Posé creek ; August. i

POLYGONACEA.

ERIOGONUM ANGULOSUM, Benth. in D. C. Prodr., vol. XIV, now in press; E. Simpson, Torr.
ined. About a foot high, very tomontose. Leaves, above the baseal whorl, by twos,
besides the clasping reflexed and very brittle bracts that in the number of 3 are present at
each node throughout the genus. Pedicels smooth, setiform, unilateral. Involucre turbinate.
Paleolee obovate spathulate, very woolly, verdant or brownish at their exserted tips. Flowers
Small, numerous, whitish or light flesh-colored. We have two states of inflorescence different
"n appearance. ` Posé creek ; September, on the margin of streams.

ERIOGONUM FASCICULATUM, Nutt? A low, stoutish, and much branched shrub, with a brown
tattered bark on the lowest branches. Leaves elliptic oblong, fasciculate and slightly revolute,

14 BOTANY.

Umbels compound on long peduncles. Flowers numerous, showy, whitish with red central
lines. Posé creek ; September. y

ERIOGONUM ROSEUM, nova species. Herba sesquipedalis erecta virgato-ramosa arachnoideo-
tomentosa, bracteis trinis parvis appressis ovato-acutis fusco-rubentibus, basi foliosa, dein scapi-
formis multumque infra medium in bractearum axillis trifurcata, verticillo unico trifoliato, nunc
ramulos ac folia prodente, cum brachiis alternante, nonnunquam capitulis ime furce insidentibus;
abinde solum ad nodos ramiferos foliis singulis parvis. Folia anguste spathulato-ovata, margine
undulata, in petiolum longum attenuata, superne rubentia, radicalia cum pedicellis 11—2" longa.
Involucra sessilia plerumque solitaria, tubuloso-campanulata compressa secundum ramos subse-
cunda, nonnunquam et terminalia. ` Flores parvi exserti incarnati vel purpurei. Paleol®
capillares incluse.

The whole plant, except the flower, covered with a white arachnoid tomentum. in about
13 foot high, virgately branched, with a whorl of three bracts at each node, (besides occasional
leaves,)leafy at the base, hence scapiform and trifurcate below the middle, with the prongs
opposite at the bracts, and alternate to a solitary ternate whorl of leaves, which sometimes
produce accessory branches and leaves from their axils, and sometimes capitula seated in the very
centre of the trifurcation ; a small solitary leaf at each further branching. Leaves narrowly
spathulate-obovate, undulate at the margin, attenuate into long petioles, with a reddish tinge;
radical leaves 14—2 lines long, including the petiole. Involucres sessile, mostly solitary,
tubuloso-campanulate, acheniform, unilateral along the branches and terminal. Flowers small,
glabrous, exserted, pinkish or purpurascent. Floral chaff capillary included. 了 Pos6 creek;
September. . ۱

EnrocoNUM PLUMATELLA, nova species. (Speeimina incompleta.) Caulis vix pedalis, dense
floccoso-tomentosus, rami divaricati, spiculis densis (cum internodiis vix 3-linearibus) pinnati.
Folia * * * * * Bractew trine, patentes in spicis triangulares, in ramis oblongo-lineares, obtuse.
Involucra solitaria, campanulata, segmentis rotundatis, incarnato-fusca. Flores albi, lobis
obovatis, Pale» pelis, lineari-lanceolatee vel truncate, apice denticulateo, pube longa
sparsa exserta.

(Specimens incomplete.) Sieni ha a foot high, densely tomentose, terminating in
divaricate panicles, pinnate with crowded spikelets, internodes scarcely 3 lines long.
Leaves, (apparently all radical.) Bracts in threes spreading, those of the spikelets triangular,
those of the branches oblong linear obtuse. Involucres solitary, campanulate, with rounded
segments, and of a reddish-brown color. Flower white, with ovate lobes. Paleole linear
lanceolate truncate, denticulate at tip with a sparse, but exserted pubescence. Posé creek 5
September.

ERIOGONUM HEERMANNI, (E. geniculatum Journ. Acad. Phil., vol. 3, part 1,) nova species.
(Specimina incompleta.) Caulis circiter pedalis, (eque ac involucra,) pallide virens glaberri-
musque, ramis divaricatissime furcatis. Folia, * * * * * Bractee trine minute late
triangulares, patentes. Involucra solitaria, parva, campanulato-subglobosa. Flores magni
involucris duplo longiores, pallide incarnati, lobis exterioribus orbiculato-obcordatis interioribus
obovato-linearibus acutis. Paleole lineares lanceolate cuneate, apice rubente truncato dentic-
ulato, involucrum eequantes, pube glandulosa.

Stem about a foot high, and, as well as the involucres, pale green and: very glabrous ;
branches very divaricately forked. Leaves * * *.* * (apparently only radical.) Bracts in
threes, minute, broadly triangular, spreading. Involucres solitary, small, campanulate,

%

—

BOTANY. 15

subglobose. Flowers large, twice the length of the involucre, flesh-colored, external lobes orbic-
ular-obcordate, the others obovate-linear and acute. Paleole glanduloso-pubescent, slender,
with more or less truncate denticulate red tips equalling the involucre. Same locality as the above.
ERIOGONUM NEDICAULE? Torr. ined. Tejon valley ; 1 September.
ERIOGONUM NUDUM Dougl. in Hook Fl. Bor. Amer., vol. 2, p. 135. Posé creek ; September.
ERIOGONUM INFLATUM, Torr. in Fremont's 2d ME Tejon valley ; August.

EUPHORBIACEZE,

EUPHORBIA OCELLATA, nova species. Herba ceespitosa depresso-ascendens glabra, fronde ccm-
planata, nodis tumentibus. Folia opposita oblique arcuateque cordato-ovata unaque cum
petiolis plus minus 3 lin. longa, tertiam fere internodiorum partem »quantia, costa mediana
superne sulcata inferne in nervum producta. Stipule filiformes. Involucra circa 1 lin, longa,
pedicellis longiora ovoidea quinque-costata, quinque-dentata, dentibus laciniatis ochroleucis et
alternantibus cum totidem glandulis margine annulari apothecia simulantibus, plerumque
ochroleucis sed in capitulis junioribus nonnunquam purpureis. Capsule haud carinatee,

Stem cespitose, depressed, ascending, glabrous; foliage flat and two-ranked, nodes enlarged.
Leaves opposite, about 3 lines long including the very short petiole, scarcely one-third the length
of the internodes, the exterior half of the leaf obliquely ovate, the other half acuminately-
cordate. The middle rib arched, furrowed on the upper surface and prominent on the back.
Stipules filiform. Involucre ovoid, 5-ribbed, about 1 line long, with shorter pedicels. Segments
5, with laciniate ochroleucous tips alternating with as many stipitate flat glands, with an
annular margin, and resembling an apothecium, generally ochroleucous, but sometimes purple
in the younger involucres. Capsules not carinate. Pose creek; August.

EREMOCARPUS SETIGERUS, Benth. Croton setigerum. Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. Vol. 2, p. 114.
Posé creek ; August. ۱

0(

ÖFBERUB, “ER Several forms, apparently of the same species, scarcely sufficiently
advanced. Posé creek and Tulare valley ; August.

GRAMINE.

LEPTOCHLOA FASCICULARIS, Smooth. Festuca fascicularis, Mich. Posé creek ; August.

Bryzopyrum Dovatast, Hook. Pose creek ; September.

Eragrostis * * * * * Tulare valley ; September.

ELymus * * * * * Leaves rigid, glaucous, so completely revolute as to appear tubular,
subulate subspinescent. Sheaths striate glabrous. Spikes elongated, slender, erect, subinter-
rupted. Spikelets few flowered smoothish. Pales with short and stiff awns. Tulare valley;
September. ei i

PHRAGMITES COMMUNIS, Triun. Arundo phragmites, Linn. The pm from which the Indians
extract their sugar. Tejon valley ; September.

PANICUM CAPILLARE, Linn. Two states of inflorescence, one young, the other far advanced
with divaricately branching panicles, nearly 14 foot long. . Posé creek ; | August and September.

Panicum CRUS-GALLI, Linn. Tulare valley ; September. a DURA ND.

T. C. HILGARD, M.D.
PHILADELPHIA, 1854.

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EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,

WAR DEPARTMENT.

ROUTES IN CALIFORNIA, TO CONNECT WITH THE ROUTES NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH AND THIRTY-SECOND
PARALLELS, EXPLORED BY LIEUT. R. S. WILLIAMSON, CORPS TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853.

ZOOLOGICAL REPORT.

WASHINGTON, D. C.
1851.

RANA

۳4

NOTE.
The Zoological Report will appear in a subsequent volume, it being found im-
possible to prepare it in time for publication in connexion with the other parts of

this report.

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX A.

DISTANCES AND ALTITUDES.

FROM MARTINEZ TO THE WAGON ROAD LEADING TO THE MOUTH OF THE GILA.

Prominent points and remarks. Intermediate dg "ania Altitude.
distances. om Mar
Martinez, on the straits of Carquines, opposite Benicia.
ivermore's 10 40.42 40.42
Entrance of Livermore’s Pass 84 44.26 481
Summit of Livermore’s Pass 3.44 47.70 686
EIk Horn, at eastern of Livermore's Pass. The distance from summit is by
the wagon road, and circuitous 6.90 54, 60 | 89
Grayson, à arbe on n the Ban Joaquin river 21.54 82. 14 |
Davis’ ferry, T 28.85 110.99 |
Merced rive 18. 87 129.86 |
Bear creek 18. 33 148.19 |
| Mariposa ri 6. 03 154. |
| Chowchilla ver: sometimes known as the Big Mariposa 10. 39 164. 61
| river 12. 15 176.76
| Cotton- wood creek 7.72 184.48 |
E rt Miller, on pr Joaquin river, in foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada 9. 40 193. 88 402
E Slough of King' ver 25.73 219. 61
Pool's ferry, King's 12. 32 231. 93
Crossing of St. J > ás 8 eek This is the first of four streams crossed by the y
| wagon road, into which the Pi- aie z abiur itseif after emerging from the v.
Sierra These reams are Mp. as the Four Creeks 28.13 260.06
user river, the second and arie die of the Four Creeks A 260. 95
i Cameron creek, the third of the Four Creeks 3.33 . 264. 28
۱ Deep eg "the fourth of the Four Creeks . 29 264. 57
: Tule ri 22. 08 286. 65
; Moore's creek 5. 08 291. 73
White creek > 14. 91 306. 64
i Jepot camp, on O-co- ya, or Pose creek 24. 35 330.99 ° 738
Po-sun-co-la, or Kern river, at the crossing 10. 87 341. 86
Depot camp in the Tejon 31. 08 372. 94 1447
Summit of the Tejon PARE cacon lll. ste) -mm= 13. 12 386. 06 5364
] base of uio Nevada 6.71 392.77 3483
£ it of t ein g on Pass 18. 00 410, 77 3437
Southeast fork of ced Cla 15. 85 426. 62
« En ce to San Fernando Dui 3. 60 430. 22 1286
f it of Fernando Pass 3 434. 12 | 1940
E Mission of San Fernando 5. 90 440. 02 | 1048
Cahuenga rancho, at crossing of a branch of Los Angeles river...............- 10. 75 450.77 |
Los Angeles 10. 21 460. 98
Mission of San Gabri 9.00 469. 98
Crossing of San reine river 6.79 476. 11
Qui-qual-mun-go rancho 26. 64 3.41
Sycamore Grove 1 14. 0 517.41 1982
San Bernardino, "— settlement 17. 69 535. 10 1118
Summit of San Gorgonio P; 27.10 562.20 2808
| Eastern base of San Gariako Pass 18. 29 580, 49
y Hot Spring 7.36 587.85 572
a Deep Well. 10. 62 598. 47 160
۱ ( — village... +... 15. 82 614. 29 85
۱ Water re below made i rocks 12. 60 626. 89 |
| Salt cre ihe a very circuitous 28. 94 655.83 | 一 70
Point where the 2 struck q wagon road leading from the mouth of the |
Gila to San Di 17. 62 613. 45 312
|

4 DISTANCES AND ALTITUDES.
APPENDIX A—Continued.

FROM SAN DIEGO TO FORT YUMA.

Prominent points and remarks. Intermediate | Total distance Altitude.
distances. from San Diego.
Mission of San Diego.
San Pasqual 29. 09 29. 09
Rancho of Santa Isabel, A a ze 23.49 52.58
War arner” s rancho, near Agua Calie 11. 18 63.76 2911
ummit of Warner's Pass, C Coast Midi 6.10 68. 86 3780
San Felipe, Indian village 10.18 79.04 2176
Summit of divide between San Felipe and Carrizo creek 9.22 88. 26 i
Vallecito, Indi age
t Water in Carrizo creek 18. 57 116. 02 431
“ag ein — the party coming from San Gorgonio Pass struck the wagon road .. 11. 00 127.02 312
12. 92 139. 94 —70
Tito fa mem 10. 29 150. 23
Mocho 14. 16 164. 39 一 70
Cook’s Wells 21.11 185.50 62
godones 11. 18 196. 68 46
Pilot Knob —cam . 06 201. 74 115
Fort Yuma, 75 feet above the river 6.51 208. 25 108

APPENDIX B.

LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES.

|
Date. Localities. Latitude, Longitude,
North. West.
1854. D CON ree OOD
Jenicia (barracks) 38 03 21 122 07 13
July 15 | Livermore’s rancho 37 44 30 121 45 50
‘ort Miller 37 00 08 119 40 13
Aug Pose Creek, Depot camp 35 30 27 118 53 02
1 | Noon halt, A 1 35 38 18
12 | Camp near Walker’s Pass > 39 20
14 | Noon halt, August 14 B11
15 um-pah-ya-mup creek 35 33 38
16 | Camp of August 16 35 19 47
17 | Noon halt, Au 35 12 04
8 | Camp in Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass 1 28
| 22 | In C e las U August 22 4 54 40
| 25 | ( won; near Ridley’s rancheria 35 02 49
| ?7 | Noon halt, August 27 34 52 33
| Sept. 4 | Tejon Depot camp 5 02 47 118 43 31
Oct. 16 | Cow Spring camp... 34 34 2
22 | Mohave Depot cam 34 34 23 117 21 17
"Nov 9 | Camp of November 9, Mohave river 34 53 42
10 | Camp of November 10 do 34 56 46
| * 11 | Camp of November 11 and 13, Mohave river........ 35 03 34
q 17 | Camp of Noyember 18 ESAS 34 56 28
: ` 20 | Camp of November 20 dccus. we 34 41 21
y 21 | Camp of November 21 34 19 28
1 24 | Jurupa 33 59 28
: 30 Caliente 33 16 38.5
۳

APPENDIX C.

DATA FOR PROFILES.

WALKER'S PASS.

| | ica E cui ee ee
At station. At Pose creek | Height of. station Distance in | $
depot camp. in feet. | miles from— | =
e S
۰ ۲ ۳ d g lá -— N
Hour. Date. Tr | THE | 8 £ 3 25 Be
: a E E =i a 8 2 az
x P E x $18 E z m. چا‎ a cr
: . E 3 | 3 $ (3/5 S m- E p a ۳
E El z * E FEE 三 = a E
5 8 : : = la 2 2 3 S 2
EN 2 B jog LOIIEIER z $ [935
E = = 5 u
E a |RiBR|d | 8 |۵۸ | < NS See
1853. Y ri LM
1|19m.... Aug. 11 | 97.439 | 83.5| 82 | 29.204 | 88 | 88 | 8 a Astronomical station on Kern river.
2| 6p.m.. 1 314 | 76 75 | 29.179 | 80 | 80 | 9632 74 | 5.75 5.75 13 | Camp
3| 10a. m.. 14 80 80 | 29.283 | 8 | 2815 183 | 6.28 | 12,03
4| 10 2 ۰ 12 | 27.159] 78 29.276 | 83 | 33 | 2902 87 15.06 | 17.09 17
5, 9p.m. 12 | 25.463 | 63 62.5 99.180 | 63 | 63 | 4551
5 | Sunrise. 13 | 25.447 | 50 29.220 | 48 | 48 4505 |
5| 4p.m. 13 | 25.500 | 90 | 89 | 29.248 | 98 | 98 | 4798 ۱
5| ۰ 14 | 25.468 | 53 53 | 99.198 | 49 | 49 3481 | 1753 | 6.44 | 23.53 272 | Camp near Walker's Pass.
6| 8a.m.. 13 | 24,954 | 76 69 | 25.478 50 | 50 5306, Summit.
6| 3p.m 13 | 24.950 | 90 86 | 95.500 | 90 | 89 | 5298 $ 647 | 1.51 | 95.04 | 428 | Lower barometer at camp; upper barometer
ABE | at station 6:
TE Da mi 13 | 26.940 | 99 97 24.768 | 78 | 69 to lai theast of summit.
7| 3p. ۰ 13 | 96.940 | 99 97 | 94.950 90 | 66 | 3050 |—9205 | 8.33 | 33.37 —965 | Lower barometer at station 7; upper baro
| | | meter at station 6.
er SERIE TER
HUM-PAH-YA-MUP PASS.
At station. | At Pose creek depot Heightofstation Distance in 3
camp. in feet. | miles from— $
G= | = 3 5 E a | E vo. e k
Date. | Hour. $3 3 3 = 3 3 3 á Remarks.
z ۱ a =
lei 131310413181. 2)
¿ e 1712 E BEER art
= - . 5 ni -A | e4 o o
1 2 S8 2-941 L ۰. ۱ - a 13%
3 = e 2 4
E 8 ۱6 ۱6 | 8 | ۶۱8۱ 5 ۶ | ۶ | 8 8
1853. o |
1} Aug. 11 12m... | 27.432 | 833 | 82 | 929.904 | 88 | 88 | 9558 |........ Astronomicul station on Kern river.
2| 11 | 6p.m..| 27.314 | 76 75 |99.179 | 80 80 | 9632 + 74۰ | 5.7% 5.75 13
3 ۱ 14 | 10a.m.. 27.955 | 80 29.983 | 5 85 2815 183 | 6.98 12.03 29
WES 14 | 12m.... 27,180 | 95 | 95 99.970 95 | 95 | 9950 | 135 | 3.78 | 15.81 | 36
- 9 | 15| 9a.m.. 26.800 | 82 | 82 | 99,998 | 86 | 86 382 | 4.25 | 90.00| 90 | Camp.
10 | 15, 8a.m.. 24,954 | 86 78 | 96.780 | 78 78 5351 2019 | 7.00 27.06 | 288 | Summit—lower barometer in camp.
u | | | 8.33 | 35.39 | 一 272 i
i 1 i

DATA FOR PROFILES. 7
APPENDIX C—Continued.

TAH-EE-CHAY-PAH PASS.

|

|—55 |7.57| 13.33), — 8 | Camp.
7

s
P
Ü
8
8
Š
8

15 ee] pes
16 | Aug. 18 | 8.95 8 m.
17 18

; | At sfation. At camp on summit | Height of sta- | Distance in | 5
j 3953 feet a. m. t. ion in feet. | miles from — | P

d | EC EO: qup | | £ ‘ |
۱ Date. Hour. 8 : 8 $32 | 3 和 $ | 25 Remarks.
} ۱ i 8424913 3 14 25
۲ 8 : 238 ae eee eae 3 O E
X . Q ~ o =» H

: een

tee |‏ و دا و اوه اه و 12238 E‏

ii á |È RES TET ETS | [E] + os |
| " T: ope]
| 12 | Aug. 19 | 11.302 m. 26.570 | 80 | 80 | 26.220 |80 | 80 | 3568 |

13 19 | 10a.m....| 96.300 | 80 | 80 126.230 | 80 | 80 | 8876) 308 4.95 | 4.95 72

1 9| 9.20a.m zs hg 78 96.180 | 78 | 78 |408 ^ 132 |1.50| 5.75 88 | Dry lake.

72

9.30 a. m. a
18 18 | 10.05 a. m.| 27.690 | 74 E 96.96 74 一 304 | 1.58, 93 —192
19 18 | 11.50 a. m.| 28.290 | 78.5 | 78.5 | 26.248 | 78.5 | 78.5 | 1785 | —648 | 3.68 | 97,02 | —176 :
20 18 | 12.40 p. m.| 28.580 | 78.5 | 78.5 | 26.248 | 78.5 | 78.5 | 1489 | —996 | 1.98 | 90,00 | —153 | Tulare valley.
TEJON RAVINE.
| Distances | Level altitudes of 3 Upper station. | Depot camp. Barometer altitudes] 5
| | from station above — = of station above —| = a
۱ cam = | $
mie | How. $2 | | 8 |. les ii! i| | £ [| [3
| g & 3 | & S E E S | = S 3 & 写
ie Po el RT
ea SA e BEER ER as و‎
EIELE EIT IE Paget ep bot 2 ie?
| “a | ۵ m | A y m E | & ES E | E À a 5
1853. Feet. | Feet. | e | = Feet. Feet.
Be. 1T asa cine | 9335.1
17) 6:8: Misha 2 1000 |...,.| >.2.1 | 2333.0 | — 18, 26.278 62 61 98 68 | 88 LE S 5.7
17.1: 5 p mi... 2728 |......| — 39.0 9994.0 | — 75 | 96. 72 28.562 7317 1.4 | 2328.7 | —34.7
: 17| 4p.m....| 18 |3815 |......| —164.2 9199,8 | — 927 | 26.512 82 16 28.640 75 | 7$ | —197.5 | 2201.2 | 一 ?1.4
| 17|19.m.....,.]. 93 12190 |......| —392.8 1737.0 | — 974 | 96.888 75 28.649 75 | 75 | —401.3 | 1799 N
17 | 11.30 a. 304 | 2065 |......| —352.6 384 [m 73 | 98.691 72 | 72 | 411.1 | 1 8 | 一 4.4
h. I7 l6 m.. 1128 |......| —226 1157.9 | —-1110 | 27.475 73.51 67 | 28.623 72 | | —249.7 | 1139.1 18.8
171. Bd m... 40 | 1575 |......] —918.7 939. 27.6 70 28.625 | 65 | 64.5 — 24,4 914.7 24.5
1 81a.m 46 | 1 weed 170,3 768.9 | — 500 | 97.866 72 70 28.618 | 65 | 65 | —180.6 8
17| 7.35 a. m | %2 | 3030 |......| —243.1 525 — 425 .078 66 64 98.604 | 64 | —270,9 463.2 62.6
17 ۷ 7,15 8: m.i 53 12885 |... 136.2 662.0 973 | 97.997 66 65 28.600 64 64 148,3 611.5 50.5
17 | 6.30 a.m. 54 | 4180 ......| —173.1 | 488.9 | 一 290 | 8 | 53 | 53 | 28.589 | 53 | 53 | 116.6 | 494.9 | — 6.0

DATA FOR PROFILES.

APPENDIX C—Continued.

TEJON PASS.
‘Distances from— Level altitudes of | 3 | Upper station. Depot camp. Barometer altitudes | 3 ۲
| | station above 一 E | of station above— 3 E
E | à | ptr | نز‎ | ie = = E 3
Date. Hour. 2 E A = | 3 | E E 3 2 : gs
2 & 8 | & Es | . 9-18 à 513 8 ES 3
g E ERE "LIE $8 3 3 | 8 2 $5
il3] 5 b EIA a 1351 13131 3 $ T
3.1 li iiij $14 [3 eee wee: ۶ | es
whe eet es | eee ede | A ee te DRS.
1853. Feet. | Feet. Feet. Feet. | Feet. | i | ۴ Feet. Feet. Feet.
Sept. 6 9a.m .....| 7 | 2783| 9783, 59.2 | 59.9| 119.3 | 28.618 | 87 | 87 | 28.681| 86 | 85 60.8 6,8| — 1,
6|11a.m.....| 10 | 7444| 10227 2| 998.4 | 169.7 28.390 | 94 | 95 | 98.676] 92 | 1 292.4 | 931.6 6
6 |12.30p.m..! 11 | 5021 | 15048 | 184.5| 482.9 | 194 98.195 |101 | 93 | 28.671 | 95.5) 94 498.9 | 905.8| — 15.3
6|4p.m......| 174 4789 7| 217.4 | 700.3 | 939.7 | 27.950 | 96 | 95 | 98.637 | 96 | 96 796.8| 998.6| — 5
7|8.30p.m...| 17p|... «e ای‎ 217.4 | 700.3 | 939.7 | 27.960 | 82 | 82 | 98.655 | 82 | 81 714.9] 916.7 | — 14.6
7|12m.......| 94 | 3999 | 9: 865.5 | 970.6 | 97.782 | 94 | 92 | 98.650 | 94.5| 93 917.2 Hr
7 | 1.30 p. 96 | 2736 | 95906 | 37.9 | 943.4 130.3 27.690 | 93 | 93 | 28.634 | 94 | 94
8|8.95a.m...| 8 | 77.9 | 943.4 | 150.3 | 97.672 | 84 | 84 | 28.595 | 84 | 84 956.3 39.1| — 12.9
8|1.35p.m...| 45 | 8885| 34881 | 389.9 | 1395.6 | 954 |27.300 | 94 | 91 |98.583| 95 | 95 | 1365.2| 408.9 | — 39.6
8|3p.m......| 59 | 3570) 38451! 182.1 | 1507.7 | 976 197.115 | 95 | 93 |28.570| 98 | 97 | 1554,1| 188.9| — 46.4
S| 20pm...) s luca. 1471.8 |........ 97.140 | 83 | 83 |98.570| 98 | 97 |..........] 1474.9| — 3.1
8|6p.m......| 59 1471.8 |........| 27.090 | 70.5| 71 ۱98,519 | 86 | 85 j..........| 1439. 322
9 |6a. m......| 52 1471.8 |........ 97.085 | 51 | 51.5] 98.530 | 60 | 60.5]..........| 3 60.5
9 | 9.402. m...| 52 1471.8 |........ 27.162 | 82 | 80 | 98.590 | 81 | 80 |..........] 1487.4 | — 15.6
9|10a.m.....| 59.| 3570| 42021 | 182.1 | 1507.7 |........| 27.126 | 83 | 82 18.590 | 80 | 80 |..........| 1597 | — 19.3
9|1.95p.m...| 62 | 3158| 45179 | 106.5 | 1614.2| 178 97.007 | 87 | 88 | 28.580 | 88 | 87 |........... 1644 | — 929.8
9/2.20p.m... 71 | 2094| 47973 | 104.1 | 1718.3 262.5 | 26.305 87 | e6 | 28.572| 94 | 94 82.7| 1796.7| — 8.4
10 | 1.25 p.m...| 102; | 19035 | 59308| 577.7 953.4 | 26 470 | 86 | 81 | 98.676 | 92 | 90.5| 605.4| 2332.1 | — 36.1
10 | 2.29 p. m...| 106 | 2150) 61458 | 109.7 | 2405.5 | 949 | 26.349 | 86 .665 | 94 | 93 195.9 | 2457.3 | 一 51.6
10 |4p.m...... 115 | 3714 | 65172 | 186.7 2592.4 | 968 .162 | 84 | 81 | 28.650 | 91 | 91 191.4 | 9648.7 | — 56.3
11 | 7a. m......| 195 70560 | 902.3 | 2794.7 | 198.9 | 95.975 | 61.5, 64 | 98.685 | 61 | 61 192.5] 2771.2 93.5
12 |9a. m .|33.970 | 75 | 74 | 98,654] 93 | 92 l........... 2819.9] — 95.9
12 | 19 m.. 95.960 | 80 | 78 | 98.649 | 93 | 92 |..........| 2852.2] 一 57.5
12 | 3p. lites] 25.970 | 100 | 84 128.585 | 95.5! 94 |.........| 2621.9| — 27.2
12 | 6p. m | 25,990 | 7 74 | 98.560 | 83 | 82 |..........| 270.4 | — 94.7
13 | 8.10. m... 133 | :4867 | 75427 353.4 3148.1. 383.4 | 25.630 | 76 | 70 | 38.605| 72 | 72 3119.3 | — 98.8
11 | 9.30 a. | | 24.965 | 76 | 74 |98.720| 80 | 80 |... ....| 4031.9
11 | 10.50 a. m Win MU, | 24.925 | 77 | 74 | 98.750 | 80 | 80 |..........| 4080.8
11 | 11.30a. m..| 140 | 1650 | 77077 | 689.7 | 3837.8 | 2207 | 295 000 | 81 | 78 | 98.720| 87 | 85 74 sm | WS
ER eke NN EA | |-.......| 84.000 | 84 | 76 | 98,700) 80 | 89- |... 5142.3
13 | 12.30 p.m.. 151 | 3943| 81020 | 一 588.9 3048.9 728.3 | 95.514 | 75 | 75 | 28.630 | 87 | 87 | —600.1 è= [ias
13 | 1.15 p. m...| 165 L| 83941 | —147.6 | 3101.3 | 266.8 | 25.620 | 77 | 76 |98.690| 88 | 88 | —191.7| 3195.2 | — 93.9
13 | 4p. m.. ; |... 25.500 | 62 | 63 [28.570 | 85 | 85 | — 68.3 | 3196.9 | — 95.6
13 | 6p. m | 527| 46 | 46 .550 | 76.5| 76 | 一 153.7 | 3041.9 59.8
15 |6a.m | | .| 25.472 | 48 | 48 | 28.550 | 54.5| 55 | —213.6| = 3103.3 | 一 2
15 | 9a. m | | 25.520 | 65 | 66 | 28.585 | 695| 69 | —115.5 | 3901.4| —100.1
15 | 19m... .... | | 25.530 | 67.5 68 | 8.565 | 785| 78 | 一 133.5 | 3183,4| 一 82.1
15 | 3p.m | BRET .505| 68 | 70 | 28.632) 81 | 80 | — 30.4| 3986.5 | —185.9
15 | 6 m | Innen 25.470 | 59 | GL 198.615| 74 | 73.5/..........| 9250.2] —148.9
14 | 7.45a. m... 172 | 2457 | 86:98 | — 93.1 | 3008.2 200.1 95.561 | 60 | 60 98.605 63 | 63 | — 88.5 3038.4| — 30.2
14|10.10a. m.. 191 | 6205 | 92603 —290.4 2717.8 | 247.1 | 25.954 | 71.5, 71.5 98.640| 72 | 72 | —990.1| 2809.3| — 91.5
14 | 10.502. m.. 198 | 9045 | 94848 | — 56.9 | 9060.9 | 146.9 | 95.988 | 74.5| 74.5 98.635 | 76 | 76 | — 94.7 9784.6, —193.
14 | 12m.. ... 3070 | 97718 | —104.1 | 9556.8 | 179 | 26.069 | 74.5! 74.5 28,620 | 78.5| 76.5, —110.2 74.4| —117.6
14| Ip. m......| 212 | 5039 | 102757 228 9328.8 238.3 |96.979 | 75 | 75 28.610) 80 | 80 | —934.2 40.9 | 一 111.4
14 | 4.90p.m... 213 | 3000 | 105757 | 一 120.1 9908.7 | 211.4 | 26.379 | 79 | 76 28.570| 79 | 79 | 一 135.6 iu
14 4p mere 214 3338 | 109095 | —112 | 2096.7 177.1 | 96.499 | 79 | 78 | 28.576| 80 | 80 | --121.1 | 2183.5| — 83.
14 | 2.30 p. m...| 217 | 3373 | 119468 | 一 95.3 9001.4 149.2 | 26.595 | 83 | 82 98.594] 83 | 82 | — 69 9114.5 | —113.1
Meer 2317 | 114785 | 一 60.6 | 1940.8 138.1 | 26.648 | 87 | 84 26.589| 82 | 8l | — 78.1 95.6
| | | |

DATA FOR PROFILES. 9

APPENDIX C—Continued.

CANADA DE LAS UVAS.

f

| Distances (level altitudes of 3 Upper station. | Depot camp. | Barometer altitudes | E:
| | from— station above— | = | | ofstation above— 3 á
| = cec ERE van تست‎ NE EE
| Date. | ‘Hour. sion] E | 3 | ag 3 | E | = | : | $ | | > 3
| k: | 7:11:57 او و‎ 321031 | 1$ |
I. 8 ٩ و(‎ ۰ 88۱ ٩ ۱ 8 ۱۵ Eg
| | LEE 2 s 8 و ی‎ o | 2$ 3
| | ECPI ELEGI TEE ee 20151 PE | eee e
| | | & | Â | & a is & EIRT a | ۵ IE x | å 2
| BETTE M |
. 1853. Feet. | Feet. | Feet. | Feet. | Feet. ^ * Fect. | Feet. Feet.
n riesia .9 |—485.9 | 一 111.5
14 | 6500 104.3 |—590;8 | 一 84.7 |
30 8|—196.4 | 5 | | | |
Sep.28 | 5p.m ....|37&58| 9240 | 67740 | 319.8 | 193.4| 169 | 28.425 85 ¡ 86 BIC 72 | 72 a 213.4 | 20
98| 4.15p.m...| 56 | 3139| 70879 | 190.9 | 384.8 | 391.1| 98.940 87 | 84 | 98.609 | 78 | 78 903! 409.71 — 9.4
98 | 3.15p.m...| 49 |5092| 75971 | 336.1 4| 348.5 | 97.900 | 79 | 79 | 98.6902 | 84 | 83 pue cs
98 2.15p.m...| 40 97.3| 917.2 | 319 ]|97.718| 77.5| 77 | 28.634 | 82 | 82 900.1| 920.5 — 11.8
98 1,90p.m...| 34 | 2237 | 81474 | 138 |1055.8| 326 |27.600 | 815| 81 | 28.652) 80 | 0 152 1080489 | — 95.7
ie 28 | 12.30 p: m...| 27 | 2087 1| 102.8 | 1158.6 | 260.1 | 97.520 | 85 | 81 | 28,660, 80 | 80 |..........| 1905 — 46.7
a 28 | 19 m........| 22 | 1751} 85312} 102.9 | 1960.8 | 308.1 | 97.490 | 75.5) 75 |28.666 | 79.5| 79 7 10.2
28 | 11 a.m......| 18 | 2407 | 87719 | 196.2} 1387 | 9767 | 27.9050 | 78 | 77.5| 28.674 | 765 %5| 145.9| 1416.2 29.8
23 | 10 a.m.... 14 | 1 6 | 1466.6 | 250.9 | 27.940 71.5) 7L5| 98,682 | 74 | 73 65.8 15.4
B| 9a.m......| 7 | 2602| 91966 | 161.4 | 1 337.5 | 27.080 | 66 | 65.5| 98.690 | 71.5| 71 1 1622
30 | 7.40a. m 1 | 3373 | 95369 | 146.4 | 1774.4 | 929.2 | 26.999 | 72 | 70 | 98.644 70 147.6 | 1769.6 4.8
7 99 | 6 p.m......| Camp... sq 9595] ur | 950 LS A 17090 14
^ 30| 6a amp 1764 |........| 26.860 | 56 | 58 | 98.609| 59.5| 60 l..........| 1746 18
‘ Oct. 1| 6a.m......| Camp 1764 ]|........] 27,000 | 67 | 65.5 98.688 | 65 | 66 l..........| 1716 48
4| 6 p.m......| Camp isses] VE cud SESTICHOIOw| exei - ] malo rm 43
1 5 1764 49 | 51 | 98.7294 NER conics 72
3j Sep. 30 74 | 0 656 | 735| 3 .9 1808.5 1.7
| 30 75 | 79 | 98 76.5| 76 52.6 | 1861.1 12.9
nri 30 77 | 74 | 98.672 | 78.5| 78 68.5 | 1929.6 1.4
| 30 81 | 5 .680 5| 80 4۱.4 | 1971 on
| į 30 83 | 79 |28.678| 84.5| 84 2029 16
= 30 89 | 8l .676 | 91 | 90 106.2| 15.21 — 29
30 85 | 23 | 98.۵62 | 95 | 94 303.1 ند‎ >
30 85 | 84 |98.604| 94 | 94 235.5 | 9873.8| — 55.9
4 30 82 | 82 |98.648| 94 | 93 194.9 | 2868.7; — 59,2
Oct. 1 84 | 84 | 28.759; 90 | s9 | — 74.7| 9794 M -4
1 83 | 89 | 28.758; 92 ¡ 92 1 | 2460.9; — 25.7 E:
1 84 | 84 | 28,738 | 94.5| 945| —146.5| 23144] — 34.9 i
1 86 | 86 |28,715| 96 | 95 | —170 2144.4 \
1 86 | 88 |28. EKI4 TE i
2 86.5| 84 | 28.780 | 85.5, 855, 117.7] 2190.2
2 86 | 85 |28.769| 88 —152 2037.3
2 90 | 89 | 28.758! 93 | 92 1 1936.8
2 93 | 90 | 28.757; 93 | 92 30.8| 1967.6
2 90 | 90 |98.754| 93 55.1! 1919.5
2 91 | 89 28.752) 94 | 93 71 1983.5
9 15 87 | 28.750; 93 | 98 | — 49.7| 8
3 78 | 80 |98.804| 81 | 81.5) —108:6| 1825.9
3 86.5 86.5| 28.813 | 85 | 845| —52.5| 1772.7
3 90 | 89 | 28,800 | 91 | 90 | —133.5, 1639.9
2| 6a.m......| Camp. se Pola TRA |........| 26.965 | 44 | 45 | 28.728 | 63 | 65 ..........| 1666.2
9| 6 p.m......| Camp 97.018 | 75 | 76 198.780 | 765| 7A l| 1765.8
3| 68.m......| Camp ve sees] 26,990 | 475 48 |98.755| 63 | 625... 1704.8. ;
s 3 | 11.30 a. m... | Camp | .090 | 88 | 87.5۱ 28.787 | 93 | $93 1....- e 1785.1 | — 12.7 ;
| | i | >
3| 19 m........| Camp. | 27.087 | 88 | 88 [ 9۵,78۵ | 955 95 |l... eee de d 8.4 F
3| 3 p.m......| Camp, | 37.005] 86 | S7 39.09] | 5 | 1788.9 — 16.5
3| 6.20 p. m...| Camp. [| | 26.965 | 62 | 62 [28.710 | 81 | 80 ges 1739 35 :
4 RSD P | | ..| 26.975 m 50 | 28.751 | 73 | 73 | = UM | 58.4
| | | |

410 DATA FOR PROFILES.

APPENDIX C—Continued.

SAN FRANCISQUITO PASS.

I
At station. At Benicia, 81.6 feet Heightof intus Disa, in miles, 3 ۱
a.m.t. | in feet. from— |
Date Hour. E: * 2 1 | F 8 | $ 12 E Remarks.
3 ota AA oe oe pea ee | 2s
MID IE IE 15 14
E CINELLI E i
3 EE AMA ae ee PIG HG IE
a a BER 名 BB < En & a |o
1 o o o
1 | Oct. 13 | 1.15p.m...) 27.553 | 93 30.050 | 71 | 71 | 9637 In Great Britain.
2 1 15 p. m.| 27.328 | 90 | 78 |30.050 | 71 | 71 | 9863 | 996 | 2.07 | 2.07 | 10
3 3| 11.95 a. m.| 96.760 | 82 30.060 | 68 | 68 | 3430 po
3 13 | 3 p. m..... 26.735 | es | 76 |30.019| 77 | 77 340551 54 | 1-75 | 3.82 | 398 | Suñimit of the pass,
4 13 | 3.20 p. m..| 26.853 | 86 | 77 |30.0010| 77 | 77 | 3315 | —122 | 0.35 | 4.17 | 350 | Lake Elizabeth.
5 15 | 9.95 a. m. 83 | 75 | 30.100 | 62 | 54 | 3718 | 403 | 0.43 | 6.60 | 166 | Summit of spur.
6 15|9.05a. m..| 26.915 | 85 | 75 | 30.100 | 62 | 54 | 3292 | —496 | 0.93 | 7.53 | 一 457
> 7 15 | 8.10a. m..| 27.265 | 71 | 71 | 30.100] 62 | 54 | 9878]| :
7 15 |6a.m..... 27.195 | 48 30.060 | 56 | 52 دم‎ | 1.73 | 9.96 | —243 | Camp.
7 14 | 6.45 p. m..| 97.900 | 63 30.040 | 65 | 65 | 986
8 14 | 6p. m.....| 27.540 | 71 | 71 | 30.020} 65 | 65 —329 | 1.61 | 10.87 | —904
9 14 | 4.20 p. m..| 27.938 | 83 29.990 | 77 | 77 | 2144 |—399 | 9.00 | 12.87 | —900
10 14 | 3.40 p. m..| 28.057 | 84 | 84 | 29.990 | 77 | 77 | 2038 | —106 | 1.00 | 13.87 | —106
n 14 | 2.30 p. m..| 28.900 | 86 | 85 | 29.990) 77 | 77 | 1898 | —140 | 1.48 | 15.35 | — 95 a
M 14 | 1.42 p. m..| 28.310 | 89 | 87 |29.999| 76 | 75 | 1805 |— 93 | 1.49 | 16.84 | — 62
13 14 | 12.42 p. m.| 28,465 | 89 | 85 | 30.020 | 76 | 70 | 1655 | —150 | 1.80 | 18.64 | — 83
14 14 | 11.35 a. m.| 28.640 | 843 | 83 | 30.020 | 70 70 1480 | —175 1.55 | 20.19 | —110 | Five miles from Santa Clara vailcy*
NEW PASS.
; At station, Mohave Depot eamp, Height of station, Dist’ce, in miles, 3 |
S. 2664 ft. a. m. t. in feet. from— 8 |
X - LE 2d
« L4 = D o M . | a l
Date. | Hour. E 3 $13} iei | if | Remarks,
E 5 3 | $ 3 E $ 123!
^ x 0 42 29 lg Ae SEE z ak I
ER El EAS SSL OE OG a ee
SE MERIDIEN TS IE ni ee
Ben ° VETE SAT IE de® 5 5 8
۱ 1853. Adm "iu ar" |
1 25 | 6a m.....| 96.970 | 501 | 51 | 27.157) 36 | 36 | 9889 | In Great Basin.
5 25 | 9a. m.....1 97.147 | 64 | 60 M| 74 | 79$ | 9795 | — 94 5.95 Eee
| 6 25 مایا‎ 27. 72 | 64 | 27.258) 787 | 74 | 2853 " 58 | 1.93 | 6.48 | 47
7 25 | 11.30 a. m..| 26.980 | 76 | 64 | 27.272; 784 | 74 | 9969 109 | 0.51 | 6.99 | 218
9 25 | 1p. m.....| 26.785 | 78 | 68 |27.258| 781 | 74 | 3164 | 202 | 0.84 | 7.83 | 240 | Divide.
10 25 | 2.15 p.m..| 26.900 | 75 | 69 |27.247 | 77 | 77 | 3005 | —139 | 1.80 | 9.63 —77
12 25 | 4p.m.....|27.250| 78 | 68 | 27.242 | 77 | 78 | 9644 | 一 381 | 3.68 | 13.31 —105 .
15 25 5p.m..... 27.390 | 66 | 62 | 27.940 | 63 | 63 | 2519 | —125 | 1.79 | 15.10 | — 70
2 26 | 5p.m......| 27.800 | 55 | 54 | 27.390 | 54 | 54 | 2258 | —961 | 4.16 |19.90 62
24 28 |8a.m...... 28.200 | 71 | 68 75 58 | 58 | 9193 | —135 | 1.72 (90.98 | — 78
35 98 | 1.30 p. m..| 28.560 | 79 | 78 | 97.195 | 83 | 83 | 1790 | —333 | 5.74 |96.72 | — 58
40} 28 | 5p.m...... 28.683 | 76 | 75 | 27.660, 62% | 62} | 1670 | —190 | 3.16 | 29.88 =a Near Santa Clara valley. :

DATA FOR PROFILES, 11

APPENDIX C—Continued.

SAN FERNANDO PASS.

At station. | At Mohave Depot | Height of sta- | Distance in | $
camp, 2664 feet | tion in feet. | miles from— |. s
mt 3
: — :
Date. Hour, "UL Glo 14 El E -8 Remarks.
213 ی‎ 193 33
. o o . o Q 型 = 8 E
5 2 S D 8 gs © n a : PN
: ۶ Ejek ۶ 18 8) 8 ۱.8۱ 8 و‎ R
= = z
e g el ne E : : 2 2 2 S o
E BREUER sae Se eee ee
a a JBJB a E | مه 4 | بح‎ | ۵ |
1853. e| o | |
"3 | Oct. 30 | 7a.m....| 29.050 | 57 | 57 | 97.610 | 50 50 | 1286 Santa Clara valley, x
* 30 | 8.30 a. m.| 28.940 | 76 | 75 | 97. 731 | 73 | 1400 114 | 2.68 | 2.68 43
19 30 | 9.30 a. m.| 28.610 | 83 | 76 | 97.685 | 74 74 | 1746 1.34 | 4,02 260
15 30 | 10a.m....| 98.610 | 83 | 76 | 28,425 | 85 | 82 | 1940) 194 | 0.22 | 4.24 881 | Lower station, station 12; upper station,
> station 15,
16 30 | lla.m.... 28.635 | 92 | 81 | 28,610 | 83 | 76 |1746 | —19 | 0.10 | 4.34 | —1940 | Lower station, station 12; upper station, i
station 16.
23 30 | 1.20 p. m.| 29.945 | 97 | 92 | 27,628 | 91 91 ) |
1048 4.44 | 8, v i
pu 31 | 630a. m| 29.005 |73| 71 87.302 | 30 | m }| 1048 | —698 8,78 | — 157 | Near San Fernando mission.
i a
|
| CAJON PASS.
|
At station. At Mohave Depot | Height of sta- | Distance in 2
۹ a 二
E x ۳ tion in feet. | miles from — =
3 PE SE
۱ Ela La ae
n T$ 3 T 3 = 2 = 3
Ñ Date. Hour. FEN 2 = = E 3 8 Remarks, "
1 = 3|s H E E S z a 这 53
1 = z] = Ss > 5 E n 13 MR
- 2 |© g 3 = 3 3 RUE
\ 5 = y B Am mo 2 3 E a
E eae oe ee IA
H ) d a ام‎ ۱ A ElB |< & & a e
| 1853. o o o
1 55 | Nov. 5| 8a.m....| 27.955 | 67 | 56 | 97.472 | 70 | 70 | 2167
56 5) 8 a.m...| 27.880 | 70 | 58 | 27.472 73 73 |1.98| 1.98 57
; 57 5| 92 a.m...| 27.665 | 87 | 70 | 27.742 | 73 73 | 2512 272 12.33] 3.61 117 1 D
x 58 5 | 101 a. m...| 27.445 | 86 | 73 .466 | 87 77 | 2681 169 | 1.67 | 5.98 101 r
: 59 5| 12m......| 97 77 | 97.460 | 89.5 80 |2791| 110 |122| 6.50 | 90
: 60 8! Ip ...| 97.160 | 79 | 74 '97.444 | 85 81 | 9947 156 |1.10| 7,60 142
63 5| 3p.m.. 6 | 70 | 27.412 | 84 3416 469 | 2.68 | 10.28 171
65 5| 5p.m.... 26.242 | 65 | 62 | 27.380 | 75 75 | 3840 494 | 2.65 | 12,94 159
= 66 5| 6 p.m....| 95.740 | 55 | 55 | 27.369 | 68 4343 503 | 0.96 | 13,90 524
1 67 6 | 10.30 a. m.| 95.395 | 55 | 55 | 27.990 | 73 73 | 4636 293 | 0.23 | 14,13 1971 | 40 ieet below summit.
68 6 | 11.30 a. m.| 25.789 | 60 | 58 | 27.280 | 87 77 | 4179 | —457 | 2.21 | 16,34 | —207
69 | Oct. 21 | 11 a.m....| 26.760 | 84 | 79 | 27.569 | 82 82 | 3536 | —643 | 6.90 | 23.24 | — 93 y
70 7.40 a. m..| 27,200 | 77 | 68 | 27.469 | 44 43 | 3096 | —510 | 5.80 29.04 — 88 Í
71 | aa 2664 | 一 362 | 4.23 | 33,27 | — 86 | Mohave Depot camp.

TAD
Mr
x
d

12 DATA FOR PROFILES.
APPENDIX C—Continued.

FROM MOHAVE DEPOT CAMP, DOWN THE MOHAVE.

| ۱ At station. | At Benicia, 81.6 feet Heightofstation Distance in miles E
| | in feet, | from— | 8
— Ü : ! | ۵
H j | | | | n | | E. =
j | E: i 3 | El = 127%) ۱ ۵ بو‎ Remarks
| Date. | Hour. $1$| 8 | 8 "21-9182 | ۳-۹-9 "
| | : 213812 313 5 8 € ! | ٩ ۱
| | 5 E €x 1 5 $8 E JN S EMI
zl i | = 23 a | $5 * | © eed i ey Se
gi [o "191: " M» ECOL EO Ow X. |
3 | WERE 2321210132 $25 E | ais |
E ee Se oe ee 12 O REA eR.
z e E jija | Bib. & & | e |o |
| | | | | |
o ۲ -- 1 | |
1853. | | | | | | |
1 تن‎ e , 2664 ee teh nenne nnne teen nen Mohave Depot camp.
2 | Nov. d 6.30 a. m.| 27.955 | 29 | 30 |30.330| 56 | 50 | 2227 | —477 | 19,70 | 19.70 | —24 |
| | |
3 9 3.30p.m. 28.102 | 67 | 65 | 30.250| 68 | 67 | el 111 14.00 | 33.70 | — 8 | 2116 a. m. t.
3 10 | 0.30a.m. 27.982 | 35 | 35 | 30,20 | 59 | 55 | 2076 | |
4 10 5p.m....| 28.292 | 63 | 63 30.100 | 66 | 65 | 1898] | |
4 11 | 6a.m.... 98.300 | 43 | 43 |30.180 | 53 | 50 | 1796 | | |
4 17 | 5.30 p. m.| 928.995 | 59 | 59 | 30.100 | 65 | 54 | 1844 一 896 | 24.6 | 58.3 | —I2 | 1820 a. m. t.
4 18 | 12 m......| 28.492 | 70 | 67 | 30.900) 68 | 60 | 1781 | | |
4 18 3p.m....| 28.390 | 67 | 上 | 30.170 | 68 | 59 1781 | | |
5 13 | 12 m......| 29.040 | 78 | 77 |30.090| 61 ۱ 61 1166 Ls
5 13| 3p.m.... 98.985 | 78 | 77 |30.000| 63 | 62 | 1379|| y) ویو‎ | as icd dede
5 14| 6a.m....| 98.991 | 43 | 44 |99.990| 63 | 52 | 1060
5 14| 9a.m....|99.005 | 67 | 61 |30.000| 60 | 58 1040 | | ۱
6 15; 3p.m....| 28.965 | 78 76 | 30.000 | 59 | 57 | 1137 59 6.4 | 95.9 9 | 1137 a. m, t., spring near Dry Lake.
| A |
" SAN GORGONIO PASS.
2 i i ! 1 | a
بت‎ | At station. | At Benicia, 81.6 feet | Height of station | Di i 5
/ AS | | a.m.t in feet. from— E
| | | | 5 : : -
| 3 | | : | 3 3 z ¿ LM
Date. | Hour RET sila beg 2:08 is Remarks.
* Log a] | E CS 2 g E S 3
ER 5 i s E E 8 8 o 1 [71 4 5 3
tos eee eee a legen
! L at A m > > e = e 2
e e | ® o + 2g S 3 5 > 2 3 E
: E N AE LEL A 4 FA | 58 | 4 9
x |
en | اه ]اه‎ o ۱
3| Nov. 11| 9a.m....[29.029 | 64 | 58 | 30.115 | 56 | 52 | 1118 |. Valley of Santa Anna river.
nn | 7H | 30.165 | 60 | 59 | 1151 ۱
q Be
3 11 | 3p.m....[ 29.087 78 | 78 [30,135 | 64 | 64 | 1170 .... | Station 3,120 feet a. m. t.
3! 11 | Sunset ....| 29.051 | 63 | 30.175 | 60 60 1154
3! 12 | Sunrise . .006 | 38 | 30.170 | 54 | 50 | 1092
4| 12 | 11.202. m.| 28.865 86 | 74 | 30.155 | 62 | 62 | 1378 | 28 | 6.26| 6.26| 41
5 12 | 1,15p.m.| 28.599 | 85} | 83} 30.150 | 62 | 62 | 1667 989 | 3.86 | 10.12
6 12| 1.45p.m.| 28.421 | 85 | 80 | 30.155 | 63 | 63 | 7 170| 1.34| 11.46 | 197
7 12 | 2.30 p. m.| 98.938 | 87 | 784 30.195 | 64 | 64 | 1992 155| 2.00| 13.46 | 77
8 12 | Sunset....| 27.982 | 76 | 71 | 30.195 | 58 | 58 | 2205 99 | 9.21 | 16.17| 79 ۱
9 13 | l0a.m....| 27.390 | 79 | 74 | 30,100 | 60 | 60 | 2808 603 | 8.33 | 94.50| 72 Divide.
10 | 14 | 8.40a. m.| 27.898 | 663 | 64 60 | 58 | 2142 | —666, 7.00 | 31.50| 95 i
1 14 | 9.40a.m.| 28.179 | 70 | 66} | 30.015 | 60 | 58 —266 | 2.09 | 33.59 | 132
19 98.965 | 74 | 73 | 30.010 | 58 | 50 | 1117 1
62 |30.025| 52 | 48 | 11001 f| 一 767 12.94 | 46.53| 60 Station 12, a. m. t.
70 |30.005| 60 | 50 | 572 | —537 | 6.01| 52.54| 89
| 85 | 29.935 | 63 | 48 | 170
x eel a6. | m. Mei —412 | 10.37 | 62.91 | 40 | A. m. t., 160.
73 | 30.105 | 64 | 58 | 76, ps m. t., 85.
68} | 30.120 | 65 | 51 | 94 — 75 | 15.82| 78.73| 44 $ Colorado desert.

cK"—

: DATA FOR PROFILES. 13
APPENDIX C—Continued. |

COLORADO DESERT, FROM STATION 15, OF SAN GORGONIO PASS, TO FORT YUMA WAGON-ROAD.

| At station. At Benicia, 81.6 fi Height of. Distance, in miles, 3
| a. m. t. in feet. from— g
| I4 DEVE E a MET ©,
۰ Date. IIour. | 3 3 E 3 3 3 $ FE Remarks.
I$ VIAL IAEA
۴ | ee ce ee ie Ge See z z SR
3 TTT ODE. ia
E I9. Be oe ele A31: 3 3 3 |f
[2] = E E = E & < A مه‎ m o
1853. | é :
15 85
16 | Nov. 18 | 9.15 a. m.. 30.440 | 75 | 71 |30.915 | 65 | 63 | —99
3 pe ge O ant ela "ndi —175 | 8.80 | 8.80 |........| Watering place.
17 18 | 4p. m..... 30.248 76 | 76 |30.185 | 68 | 59 46 | 136 | 2.54 | 11.34 |........| Point of rocks, 100 feet below
> | water line.
18 20 9.152. m.. 30.473 | 62 | 60 | 30.305 | 61 | 59 | —69)
18 20 12m........ 30.459 | 74 | 724 | 30.985 | 63 | 62 | —42
18 90 | 3p. m..... 30.438 1| 80 | 30.955 | 64 | 65 | —44$] —116 | 30.43 | 41.77
18| ° 90 | Sunset... 30.384 72 | 72 | 30.9355 | 61 | 56 | —
18 91 | Sunrise... 30.336 | 39 30.955 | 55 | 46 J
19 91|1.45p.m.. 30.152 | 86 | 84 | 30.935 | 63 | 58 | 207 | 299 | 19.18 | 53.95
20 91|5.10p.m.. 29.998 | 76 | 75 | 30,905 | 63 | 57 | 312 85 | 5.45 | 59.40 |........| Wagon-road.
.
"mm -
FROM CARRIZO CREEK TO FORT YUMA. ¿A à
At station. At Benicia, 81.6 f Height of stati Distance, in miles, E 5
a. m. t. infeet. fi P
" & ر‎
A m «131.3 E 5 25 4
Date. Hour. 3 E 3 2 3 3 3 FE Remarks.
E S LTITT A 3 E g EI
E Qe oe ae EI ET P. 111
a EE HE ae 8 16 = & & a |ö y
1853. o
1 | Nov. 22 | Sunrise ....| 29.725 | 46 | 444 | 30.135 | 54 | 48 431 اي ی‎ Camp at Carrizo creek.
5 2|Dec. 4|8.95a.m..|29.914| 60 | 58 |30.990| 59 | 51 sl or} xs X6 16
3 4| 8.40 a. m..| 29.960 | 65 | 61 |30.230 | 59 | 51 346 | —28| 0.67 42
4 4 | 8.50 a. m..| 99.870 | 69 | 69 | 30,930) 59 | 1 443 wi 0.66 | 5 144 | On top of hill.
D. 4 | 9.30 a. m..| 29.940 | 78 | 76 |30.930| 59 | 1 46| —37| 1.90 | 6.9 | — 90
6 4 | 10.50 a. m.| 30.040 | 86 | 78 | 30.164 | 61 | 55 946 | —160 | .1.67 | 8.57 | —100
7 4 | 11.40 a. m.| 30.040 | 85 | 79} | 30.130 | 63 | 57 wi umi ts] wnul.-u
8 4|9p.m.....| 30.129 | 89 | 81 .063 | 64 | 60 91 | —138| 5.91 — 93
9 4 | 3.45 p. m..| 30. 89 79 |30.000| 64 | 62 | — 16| —107| 3.32 | 19.34 | — 32
10 4|5.45 p.m..| 30.170 | 70 | 70 |29.9900 | 64 | 60 | — 70| — 54 | 4.58 | 23,92 | — 19 | Big Laguna.
11 5 | 9.45 a.m..| 30.940 | 73 | 66 | 30.090, 60 | 54 | — 21 49| 6.57 | 30.49 8
12 5 | 19.30 p. m.| 30.900 | 85 | 76 |30.100 | 61 | 58 56 بو‎ | 7.0 | 37.52 11
13 5|3p.m.....| 30.160| 93 | 78 |30.190| 62 | 62 139 5.05 | 49.57 15
14 6 |6a.m..... 30.180 | 46 | 46 | 30.080 | 52 | 45 | — 70 —202| 5.80 | 48.37 35 | Alamo Mocho.
15 6 | 9.15 am..| 30.230 | 65 | 64 |30.130 | 53 | 46 94 94| 5.90 | 53.57 18
16 6 | 12.15 p. m.| 30.200 | 84 | 77 |30.170 | 56 | 47 139 108| 6.34 | 59.91 17 /
17 6 | 2.40 p. m..| 30.200 | 87 | 82 |30.910| 49 | 49 170 38| 4 63.91 9 e
18 6 | Sunset... 30.185 | 84 | 75 |30.190 | 47 | 47 | —14| 443 | 63€ | — 4
19 7 | 6.45 a.m.. 30.200 | 62 | 62 |30.130 | 43 | 43 62| —94| 1.14 | 69.48 | — 82 | Cook's well.
20 sam...» | 77 | 73 |30.150| 45 | 45 41| —15| 5.91 | 25.33 | — 3
21 7 |1la.m.... 30.260 | 82 | 76 | 30.190 | 46 | 46 s an EU tow | á ۳ a
2 7|1a.m....|30.960| 84 | 78 | 30.190 | 48 | 46 30 5| 1.33 | 79.03 4 d
23 7 | 11.30 a. m.| 30.995 | 78 | 75 | 30.190 | 48 | 48 46 16| 1.63 | 80.66 10 | Algodones, Colorado river.

14 DATA FOR PROFILES. Macro

: APPENDIX C— Continued.
WARNER’S PASS.
۳
| ' ` At station. | At Benicia, 81.6 | Height of sta- | Distance in 3
ta m. t. tion in feet. miles from — | g
e E io
Date. Hour. P: E z E a £ E HE Remarks.
: $1 CODE RE 2 8 £ s
2 1 8 4 8.۱ SG ۱.8 8 s 2 2 Due Bu
i PISPELA- 35 If ELE
3 S 7% EEE = = E E
al 8 ۱۸ E ۱8۸ 68613 | £|% | ¿8
1 o o 3 |
1 | Nov. 99 | 12m ...... 97.499 | 76 75 | 30.930 | 61 | 8 | Camp near Warner’s.
1 99.90 | 34.2... 94. 76 | 69 | 30.255 | 64 | 61 | 9924 |....... | Do.
1 30 | Sunrise ...| 97.315 | 354 | 34 | 30.365 | 57 | 51 | 9865 | Do.
l| Dec. 1| 7.303. 97. 59 | 48 | 30.370 | 68 | 60 | 2987 3: Do.
2 | Nov. 28 | 1.35 p. m.| 27.307 | 65 | 64 | 30.315 | 64 | 64 | 3020 109 | 2.85 2.85 38 1
3 98 | 12.30 p. m.| 27.08 | 61 | 59 | 30.995 | 63 | 61 | 3296 906 | 3.93 6.08 64
4 28 | 12m ......| 96.808 | 59 | 58 | 30.995 | 63 | 61 | 3495 269 | 1.95 7.33 | 215
5 98 | 11.30 a 26.548 54 | 30.295 | 63 | 61 | 3764 ker
5 | Dec. 1 | 11.90 a. m.| 96.550 5 66 | 30.300 | 68 | 62 sal "bcd c Mo ME
6 | Nov. 28 | 10.45 a. m.| 97.059 | 59 | 55 | 30.285 | 64 | 60 | 3917 | —563 | 1.69 | 10.04 | 一 333
7 28 | 9.15 a. m.| 97.602 | 66 | 61 | 30.985 | 64 | 57 | 9666 | 一 551 | 3.92 | 13.96 | —140
ES 8 98 | 8.30 a. m.| 97.759 | 64 | 56 | 30.985 | 64 ۱57 | 2490 | —176 | 2.21 | 16.17 | 一 80
E 9 93| 2.50 p.m.| 27.854 | 75 | 74 | 29.995 | 64 | 63 | 2213 | —277 | 3.67 | 19,84 | — 76 | Base of hill.
10 23 | 12.30 p. m.| 27.568 | 81 | 79 | 30.025 | 60 | 56 | 2557 | 244 | 5.72 | 25.56 60
11 23 | 12.20 p. m.| 97.541 | 85 | 82 | 30.025 | 60 |56| 9604 | 47 | 0.05 | 25.61 | 940 | Summit.
12 23 | 12.10 p. m.| 97.608 | 87 | 78 | 30.025 | 60 |56| 2530 | — 74 | 0.10 | 25,71 | —740 | -
13 23 | 11.25 a. m.| 27.505 | 77 | 76 | 30.025 | 60 | 56 | 2602 1.00 | 96.71 72
Ec 14 23 | 10.40 a. m.| 97.650 | 69 | 68 | 30.040 | 58 | 53 | 9494 | —178 | 1.10 | 27,81 | —165
A 15 23 a.m.| 27,926 | 78 | 74 | 30.050 | 57 | 51 | 2193 1 | 1.90 | 29.01 | —192
M |. 93, 8.20a.m.| 98.919 | 64 | 64 | 30.055 | 55 | 49 | 1850 | —343 | 2.64 | 31.65 | —130 | Base of hill.
DM. | 23 | 8.15 a. m.| 28,077 | 614 | 614 | 30.055 | 55 | 49 | 1977 197 | 0.11 | 31.76 | 1155 | Top of hill.
o | `| 8a.m....| 28.344 | 67 | 62 | 30.055 | 55 |49| 1732 | 一 245 | 0.32 | 39.08 | —
۸ | 92| gp» m....| 28.792 | 78 | 77 | 30075 ۱ 66|61| 1353 | —379 | 6.05 | 38.13 | — 63
سس‎ = 22 | 12.20 p.m. 29.075 | 87 | 82 | 30.100 | 63 | 56 | 1133 | —220 | 3.03 | 41.16 | — 73
۴ 22 | 11 a.m....| 29.986 | 84 | 811 30.115 | 62 | 54| 934 | —199 50 | 43 — 80
sd 92| 9.90 a.m. 29.513 | 83 | 76 | 30.145 | 59 | 50 | 743 | —I91 | 2.84 | 46 50 | — 66
93 22 | 8.90 a. m.| 49.628 | 73 | 68 | 30.145 59 |50| 602 | —141 | 2.65 | 49.15 | — 53
94 22 ise ...| 99.795 | 46 | 442 | 30.135 | 54 | 48| 431 | —I71 | 4.16 | 53.31 | — 41 | Camp at Carrizo creek.
& 25 21 | 5.15 p.m.| 99.993 | 76 | 75 | 30.205 63 57| 312 |—119 | 11.01 | 64.32 | — 11 | Wagon road in the desert.