BY

LIEUT. G. K, WARRE N, “9
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEER OF THE “SIOUX EXPEDITION.” —

= REPORT

THE SECRETARY OF WAR,

IN COMPLIANCE
ith a resolution of the Senate of the oth anihay ealig for a copy of

country between the Missouri and Platte rivers and the Rocky csi S
tains, together yack the maps accompanying the same. ©

‘May 7, 1856.—Read ; motion to print referred to the Committee on Printing.
: ‘* resolved that it be not DS ” Mr. Wexxer, to amend by
*‘not.’’ Postponed until to morro ‘
AY pee a 1856.—Amended, considered and agreed to. Ses agreed to as amended.

War DEPARTMENT
. Washington, May 5, 1856,
~ Ait pa et with the resolution of the Senate of the 9th

n of the region of country

ation
eee and the Rocky Mountains,

‘the maps accompanying ee
ery respectfully, your obedient servant,
JEFF’N DAVIS,
Secretary of War.
Hon. J. D. Bar ee
ae resident ro im of the Senate.

War DepaRTMENT,
Washington, March 26, 1856
gray 1 Engineer, Lieut + G.
s staff, during the past year’s campal
on between the Misuse and Platte ri and Rocky ¥
essed a brief and jsaereenng re

20 tage

REPORT.

to that officer, which contains much useful and newly acquired informa-_
tion respecting the country and routes, rivers and streams traversing
: sc. The report and maps should be printed, as they will be very
useful to the troops on that frontier and to travellers and emigrants.
Very respectfully and truly yours,
JEFE’N DAVIS.

Hon, Joun B. Wet
Chairman Commitiee on Military Af aus; Senate.

‘Bureau or TopoGRaPHIcaL ENGINEERS, 3
ashington, Aprit10, 1856.
Sm: In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 9th in-—
stant, T have the honor to submit uc report and map of Lieutenant
Warren, called for by that resolutio
Respectfully, sir, your obedient servant,
J.J. AB

Colonel Corps eee Engineers. ;
Hon. J EFFERSON, Davia, Rerraiees of War.

i

Wasuineton D. C., April 9, 1856.
Sir: IT have the honor to transmit herewith a copy of a report,
made by order of Brevet Brigadier General W. 8. Harney, command-
ing ‘‘Sicux Expedition,’ of my explorations in the Oras country —
during 1855, as ee a lea eninee to the expediti
It is accompanied by one ma a scale of 1: 600, 000, ‘and another _
van a pons of 1: 300,000, aig the | localities of the Indians, = cer-
vague info rmation obtained from hunters of country not yet ex-
lores Eastin tally. ee se maps contain nearly all the reliable
map information concerning Nebraska. “
There is slo barometric section of the country between Fort Pierre ©
oe ok Kea
n the sie to my report will be found an interesting memoir, _
‘from Dr. I. V. Hayden, of examinations lately made = unt iS
Nebraska. tal
I am sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
G. K. WARRE

Lieutenant Ti
Colonel J. J. A Spor aphical Engineers.

Chief Topsioyraghsod Engineer, Washington City.

CONTENTS.

ROUTES EXPLORED.

Indian names—Ge ology—Gener ral Leino salianek portions—Sandy Se
_ Characteristics m4 each—Limits for settlements—Black Hills—Bear and
hide Peaks—Th Bad Lands, les Mauvaises nee with a sketch—The Sand Hated
les Buttes de sale: with a gc Fore du Missouri

RIVERS.
a Missouri, description of, resources, navigation, &c.—Platte, description, &c.—Loup
Fork—L’Eau qui Court—White river—Bad river, or Little Missouri river—
Big Shyenne—Rivitre & Jaques, or James river—Vermilion—Big Sioux ..++.+++

ROUTES, TRANSPORTATION, &ce.

Fort Leavenworth to Fort Laramie—Mormon emigration, Fort Pierre to Fort Lara-
_mie—Mouth of l’Eau qui Court to Fort Laramie—Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny,
Fort Pierre to Sioux aepiabaa rt Pierre to Fort Ridgely—Fort Pierre to the Big
Shyenne—Near the mouth of the Platte to the mouth of 1’Eau qui Court......

INDIANS, AND MILITARY POSTS.
Sioux—Divisions of, viz: Mdewakantonwans, tlc meee Lage! incr
* wans, Isanties, Ihanktonwans, Thanktonwannas, Titonwa: aie, Unkp
‘pas, ee a a Ogalalas ipehi
numbers. de — ers i

oux—Of mouth of Moreau—Fort
earny—Fort Laramie—Impracticability of istek campaigns—Prosecution of
the so deren nnes—Crows—Mandans—Aricarees — Minni-

tares—A
CONCLUSION.

a :
Country ome to ‘be examined—Importance of information—Explana-
tion of maps, &c.—Assistance sari ese pg aed in natural history—Journey

m Fort Brie to a Kearny. J

APPENDIX A.

m Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie—From Fort Lara-

des, apiads, sere magnetic declinations—Details of routes from Fort

to Fort Kearn ‘

to Fort eee , Fort = to Sioux DE oem from St. Louis
of the Yi

e

CONTENTS...

APPENDIX B.

Survey of Fort Pierre reserve—Reconnaissance from Fort Pierre to Big Shyenne, and
sketch

APPENDIX C. Z
Report of September 4, 1855, and sketch of battle ground at Bluewater creek....... 38

APPENDIX D.

+ Meteorology—General remarks and explanations—Notes on the weather—Table I. Ob-
servations, altitudes, and distances from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny—Table II.
Distances and altitudes from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie—Table Ill. Hourly ee
psychrometrical observations—Table 1V. Elastic force of vapor, hourly—Table V. Vn
Elastic force of vapor, 7 a. m.,

e
p.m.—Table VI. Hourly observa-
tions of barometer No. 1014— Table Vil. tn observations of barometer No.
1013—Table VIII. Observations for-altitude of Fort Pierre—Table 1X. Correc-
tions for daily curve of pressure

APPENDIX E.

Se note on section in ravine of Eau qui Court river, by W. P. Blake—Geological a
n y D V. Hayden—Hy sri cfeengs basin of the Missouri— ae.
seit of w ribet sbepione—t tau qui Court—White river—Teton o

a
river—Shyenne river—Moreau, Grand, and Cannon Ball rivers—Little Missouri

Lands—Fossils from the Bad ande~esriy of atmosphere—Climate—
Geographical distribution of plants and anima

MAPS.

A. Map of a portion of the Dacotah country, on a scale of 1 to 600,000, embracing all the @x-
plorations within the limits compassed by it, including those of Major Long, J. N
Nicolet, Captain Fremont, and Captain Stansbury.

2. Map, ona scale of 1 to 300,000, giving location of the different bands of indiana,
such other information as could be obtained from the trappers and hunters

3. Barometric profile of route from Fort Pierre to-Fort Kearny

and

REPORT

OF

LIEUTENANT G. K. WARREN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEER

OF THE

“SIOUX EXPEDITION,”

OF EXPLORATIONS IN THE DACOTA COUNTRY, 1855.

Wasutneton, D. C., March 15, 1856.

‘* Sioux Expedition’ required me to go up the Missouri: river to Fort
Pierre, lay out a military reserve for that post, and examine the river
as high up as the mouth of the Shyenne.

mouth of the Big Sioux, by the direct route through Minnesota.

ver the routes thus traversed, sketches and notes were taken, and
collateral information was sought from every available source. I have
given the Indian names, as well as the French and English, to objects
and localities, and in writing the Dacota words have adopted, as far as
possible, the spelling used in the Dacota Grammar and Dictionary,
published by the Smithsonian Institution. Dacota being the proper
name for the so called Sioux. *

The routes traversed lead over the great plains between the Missouri,
the Platte and the Shyenne, and nowhere entered the mountains
the geology of this interesting section, which is believed to be mainly
of the tertiary and cretaceous formations, much new information has
been gained by Dr. F. V. Hayden, who is at present preparing his ;
results. To his preliminary report [in Appendix E] I would call
especial attention on account of its general interest. on
note concerning specimens of rock from a ravine on |’Kau qui

Court has been prepared by Mr. W. P. Blake, and will be found in
Appendix E.

-* The letter a, is always sounded as in father; e, as in they; i, as in marine
ch as in cherry.

6 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

muddy and difficult to ford.

In the’ sandy region the rain that falls sinks into the surface and
does not run off suddenly nor evaporate; pure water in small lakes,
springs, and clear running streams are the consequence, but they are

not numerous. The streams and lakes have sandy bottoms and are

easy to ford.

The grass in the clay region, is, as a general thing, superior to that
in the other, being finer and more nutritive ; but along the banks of
the streams, where the clay and sand in either region are mixed, there
is not much difference. Wood generally exists along the banks of all
the streams where it has not been destroyed by fire, or by the Indians

for forage and fuel. Pine timber is found on |’Eau qui Court, on the -
southern branches of White river, and in the Black Hills. From my _
; |

observation, I think that continuous settlements cannot be made in
Nebraska, west of the 97th meridian, both on account of the unfavorable
climate and want of fertility in the soil.
Grasshoppers occasionally devastate the country, stripping it in
places of almost.every green thing.
The Black Hills of Nebraska are believed to be composed of primitive
_ rock, and are the eastern portion of the great mountain belt. They
are in somewhat detached ridges, ranging NW. to SE. and probably
have their continuation in Snowy, Bears Paw, and Little Missouri,
mountains of the upper Missouri and the Cyprus mountains, &c., in
the British possessions.
Bear Peak, between the forks of the Shyenne, as well as Raw Hide
' Peak, a little west of north from.Fort Laramie, is a detached portion
of this range, and both believed to be of primitive rock. All the
other hills, peaks, or buttes to the east of these are stratified rocks,
the remains of vast denudation. The rocky precipices and rid

generally soft calcareous stone or marloccasionally capped with hard
I

| ast along the
jJatter stream as far as the forks. They belong to the tertiary period.
Dr. Hayden thinks that the Bijou Hills are a part of the same forma-
tion; and I should think, from thir appearance, the Dog’s Ears and
t rm é i hey lie in an extended ridge,
coming from the direction of the Bad Lands of White river, and have
similar lithological character. i
examination to detect any fossil remains.
through the Mauvaises Terres from ite
river, the surface is, in many places, covered with chalcedon
hard ; in others it is clay, and in wet weather very soft. T

White river, between it and l’Eau qui Court, and on the Platte, aré —

I did not, however, make sufficient

$

’

eee

© OS DiS gee eh 2 OS eh ee ee, ip mom a ee te SRA SS Oe ee ae Ree ee a ee aie ee eng ie ee ee ee

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.

some of them sandy.
s are about two hundred

?

e clayey beds

this section some of the streams hay
The precipitous ridges of*the Mauvai

ises Terre

a

BL pug oy) uy Asano,

foot hich, and are very str

(See sketch.) Black

.

in appearance.
to be found here.

iking

.

eer and big horn are

EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

we
vered.

i 3
A }
o D ro
+ he I
O54
oro @ S
z oS
oP Sas
= 3 —— aoa
>
as a : E
an a S
> hes ae
= ae Sw
° 3 =
. ie
re ibe
oe rc ng
= ov
4. fia % 3
i é3
” RR
25 - :
7m
2) S5
a A ee I =|
o o*
a= =
Sf Bs E
ns = S
etd kt
oO pment
a GY
sd Oo: >
Oo 4
° Ss
ms ae
ae 5 be
a Y
= § re
mS 8 ae
ra 2
=i we Se
© = % a ae
S a : ae
s PEO ran’
we a ee <4 ~ a
So ea SS eee BS Ree a3
B:3 ies Se: ER
pa fcenery in the Sand Tiills, (les Buttes de Sable,) Nebrasta. fo

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 9

with coarse grass and other apt their roots penetrating so deep
that it is almost impossible to pull t ut
e sand is formed into limited ‘eiianh, over the rims of which

are constantly passing up one side and down the other, the feet of the
; ees frequently sinking so as to make the progress excessively
abori

The een is eee solitary, silent, and desolate, and de-
pressing to one’s spirits. ntelope, an at sometimes buffalo, are
numerous. This is the common war ground for the Dacotas, Urows,

quarter of a mile of an enemy’s camp Grithout the faites sound

I am told, increase in heig t, eg = are pe for horses. Their
east and west limits are not well known, but they undonbtedly
occupy nearly all the country between Loup Fork <a l’ Kau qui Court,
and form a lasting barrier to any direct economical wheel communi-
cation between them. Their width where we crossed is sixty miles.
The country lying between the Republican Forkf the Kansas, and
the South Fork of the Platte, described by Captain Fremont, (Senate
Doe. No. ao ng tee 28th Congr ess, pp. 109, 110 ,) 1s most probably
a similar re

The Citemns “dis Missouri, in Minnesota, has a soil of only two or
three inches, beneath which is the cravel, &c., of the boulder forma-
tion; it extends east nearly to te Vermilion river

RIVERS.

The a ane is the most important river as regards our dealings
with the Dacotas. Flowing through the middle of their country, ‘it
furnishes us ah a base from which, with short lines of march, we
can reach almost any portion of their lands, and many of them have
their permanent home upon its banks. My remarks upon it will be
confined wholly to that portion a the mouth of the Shyenne, and
which came under my own observatio

The bottom lands and some of the tates islands are from fifteen to
twenty feet above low water, and rarely overflowed, though during
the melting of the snows this sometimes happens. ‘he wood on these
bottom lands, from being large and dense, as in the State of Missouri,
gradually becomes thinner as we ascend to the mouth of the Vermil-
ion, and above this it generally is only a narrow belt, varying from
a single tree to groves half a mile in width, alter nating on either side,

or occupying a few of the larger islands; sometimes these, as Farm
island, below Fort Pierre, and “the large island below the mouth of the
shyenne, contain prairies in their interior. I believe, however, that
timber sufficient for the wants of a military post exists everywhere

within reasona able distance on the Missouri, as _— up as the Big — : :

- ~ idem and above this the timber is said to impro

10 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTR¥ BETWEEN

The bottom lands on the Missouri, along the western boundary of
Towa, as well as the prairie lands on either side, are very fertile. The
valley of the Big Sioux, above its mouth, forms the continuation in
direction of that of the Missouri below, and is said to be fertile. The
Hupan Kutey prairie, lying between this stream and the Vermilion,
is low and fertile, and is about the last of the continuous fertile country
as you advance up the Missouri, which here comes from the west
Above this the bottom lands of the Missouri are sometimes one and two

would furnish a handsome site for a military post. The same is true
of the right bank of the Missouri, from White river to the Great
Bend, at the former situation of old Fort Aux Cedres and Fort Look-
out. Another éligible site is on the point ten to fifteen miles below
the Shyenne. It is my opinion that no point above the Vermilion
could be relied upon for many years to come to raise corn for the sup-
port of a cavalry post; above this it must be transported.

me It cannot-easily be fo-ded, and shoals would prevent a boat
from floating across, except :he be of very light draft and small
dimensions. I am convinced, however, from what I have seen during
a season of unparalleléd difficulties to navigation, that, with suitable
preparation, the Missouri can always be relied upon as a channel to
convey any necessary amount of supplies. The removal of some of
the snags and boulders would greatly improve it, but even as it is,
with a better knowledge of the channel on the part of those navigating
it, and more suitably constructed boats, this stream would lose much
_of its terror to them. .

_ L’Ban qui Court, during floods, throws out large quantities of sand,
and leaves a bad bar in the Missouri. Another j

. . ?
were men to cut it in the autumn, and haul it to good landings in the

My trip was made in the steamboat Clara, drawing 54 feet of water.
She had to be lightened at the mouth of Eau qui Court, and again at
the bar above the mouth of White river, and at the foot of the Great
Be She was 39 days from St. Louis to Fort Pierre.

The Clara was so hard to handle when the wind blew strong, that
she frequently could not be kept in the channel. The requisites of a
good steamboat for Missouri navigation are, a strong bottom, a boiler
that burns the minimum amount of wood, as little as possible of top —

The crossing of the Missouri at low water is very difficult by any 4
ans.®

It drains a portion of the Sand Hills, and has sevéral large tribu-

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 1s

hamper, wheels well forward, and considerable breadth of beam, so as
to give as much control over her motions as possible. The Clara was
the reverse of all this, but Captain Cheever, her commander, was a
most skilful river man, and his untiring efforts overcame all difficul-
ties.

The main rise on the Missouri occurs between April 20, and June 1.

The Platte river is the most important tributary of the Missouri in
the region under consideration ; its broad and grass-covered valley lead-
ing to the west, furnishes one of the best wagon roads of its length in
America. From its mouth to the forks, the bluffs are from two to
five miles from the water, making an intermediate bottom valley of
from four to eight miles wide. From the forks to Fort Laramie, the
bluffs occasionally come down to the water’s edge, and the road has
to cross the points of the ridges. From Ash Hollow to Fort Laramie,
the road is sometimes heavy with sand. Fine cotton wood grows
along the banks, and on the islands, from the mouth to Fort Kearny ;
from here up it is scarce, and of small size. Cedat§jis found in the
ravines of the bluffs, in the neighborhood of the forks, and above.
The river is about a mile wide, and flows oter a sandy bottem; when
the banks are full, it is about six feet deep throughout, having a re-
markably level bed; but it is of no use for navigation, as the’ bed is
so broad that the water seldom attains sufficient depth} and then the
rise is of short duration.

The water is sometimes so low, as was the case last season, that it
can be crossed anywhere without difficulty, the only care requisite

being to avoid quicksands.

The manner in which this stream spreads out over its entire bed in
low water, is one éf its most striking features, and it is peculiar to
the rivers of the sandy region. short distance above Fort Laramie,

the Platte comes out from among the gorges and caiions, and its char-

acter there is that of a mountain stream.

Loup river, a large branch of the Platte, some 200 yards wide, is,
where I saw it, in every respect similar to the latter below the forks,
and a fine road could, without doubt, be made along its valley, which is
about two miles wide. Its banks are low, like those of the Platte, but

ter wooded. THe Pawnees lived in numbers on this

are much ;
‘stream, till the hostility of the Dacotas drove them from their homes.

I have no knowledge of how far west this stream heads, but judge
from its size that it must, be about the meridian of Ash Hollow.

night answer : ier ae in the floods, but would furnish no navi- —
gat

Whi ite river rises about 35 miles east of the source of Rapid river,
and in about the same latitude. Its course for the first 15 or 20 miles —
is through a narrow gorge, thence it emerges into a broad, open
valley, through which it flows for 90 miles, and then enters the high, —
precipitous cliffs of the Bad Lands; it winds through these to the
South Fork, and thence to its mouth it has a beautifully wooded and
grassy valley of about one mile wide. Below the Bad La nds, its val-_
ley cannot be followed without frequently peice to the high prairie

_ bluffs. At the forks, the river is about 140 yards wide ; a short dis-
tance above the mouth, about 200 yards. The south fork sash large :

from these streams is clear, and similar to Rapid river
The Bad river, Wakpa ‘Shicha, a or Little Missouri river, 18
about 90 miles long, rising just east of the Bad Lands. The same
difficulty is experienced as with the lower part of White eae if you.
attempt to follow along its valley. The valley is from on -
mile wide, well grassed and wooded. The bed of the is
and miry, an peiaet 3 not = The scrpebaolk ~ the he valley is
not difficult for wagons in dry weather. Cottonwood exists in con-
* siderable 5 a a mixed with wallow, and in some places, ash and
plum trees are abundant. ortion of this valley is
~ adapted to Screg Indian corn. When flooded, the river is from 25
to 40 yards wide, “and cannot then be crossed without a good bridge
or ferr am not informed of the extent to which it overflows its
immediate banks, which are about 10 feet high." This stream flows
_ through a section abounding in salt springs, and salt incrustations
are almost everywhere visible, but the water is generally palatable.
hyenne, Washté Wahpa a or Good river, rises west of the Black
Hills. Th .. per fork, it is said, breaks through, as in the case of
aramie ri The ech about 100 miles from the mouth.
— south rk: oa not far from the source of |’ Eau <p Court. After leav-

not easily crossed. Fine cottonwoodse
: pine on its soufces in the Black Hills.

rafting,
e Riviere & Jaques, or James river See Mini Wakan, or
Devil’ cle, in latitude ie 30’ north, and flows thro acdc os
rT é wi ta

this stream at all —
high water. ‘There is

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 13

much wood on its banks, and the country bordering is not valuable
for agricultural purposes, and posseses few resources.
ermilion has a good ford nearly in a direct line from Fort
Pierre to Sioux city, the stream being about 20 yards wide; below
this point it is difficult to ford. The valley is broad and not all
overflowed.
There is some timber along its margin, and the country adjoining
is fertile. I consider it about the western limits of agricultural lands.

muddy, and not fordable. The soil of the land bordering it is good
and productive, and the stream is fringed with cottonwood. It will
no doubt be valuable for steamboat navigation. A ferry is being es-
tablished at its mouth.

ROUTES, TRANSPORTATION, &c.

the surface, is gravel or sand, and ordinary rains do not seriously affect
it. In crossing the divide from the south fork to the north, we gain
the summit by easy slopes, but the descent is very sudden into Ash

take a loaded wagon up this steep. Ash Hollow is bounded on all

Platte, but at a point so near the Fort that they might be left on the
north side in charge of a detachment from the garrison. The route
along the south side of the Platte has at least to cross the south fork,
which, in the time of melting snows and spring floods, would occasion
serious delay. I am not, therefore, prepared to say whether Fort

Laramie could be best supplied from Fort Leavenworth, or from the

ol points of oe of the Mormon emigration near Florence, above the
- mouth of the Platte; the distance of land transportation is . favor
of the latter. The —, of wood along the Platte is

very seld
route could be found leading up Behe Fork towards its source, an
then crossing over to the Platte—it should be exam

by steamboats up the Missouri. I believe the steamboat transportatior
perfectly practicable up to Fort Pierre for any requisite amount ofa
provisions and stores, yet they could not be relied upon to reach there
before the 15th of July, and the cost would be considerable. Th
a land eee would then be 323 miles. But the road, even in
ood seasons is rough and contains numerous hills, requiring heavy

river, the road is in the last ‘degree bad at all times; there is reason,
however, to think that this portion could be avoided. But when we
consider that the os for transportation from Fort Pierre to 5
aramie must be procured from the States at a distance of 500 to
miles, it is. doubtful “if at t any time economy would select this rotite a8
_ a channel through which to supply Fort Laramie. 4
ery much in the same light must we view the project of supplying
Fort Laramie from “ mouth of Rapid river, supposing a post estab-
lished at that point, viz: the distance one hundred to four hundred —
miles, from which the means of land transportation must be obtained
and the probable difficulties of the route itself. This proposed road —
would have to keep on the divide north or south of Rapid river, and —
most probably to the north, or if it entered the valley would be forced
to cross the stream frequently, or take again to the bluffs. Unlike
the: Platte, or the main ortion of White river now followed by the

ut
bei we should have to make frequent deto s to find %

confined to the divide. 4 urs to find camps if we are
e country is sandy and ag road would be good i
there i is | g00 dg good in wet weather:

5 acne from Sioux City to Fort = “the sg Fire
Steel or weit Mad there is a ae nh

‘THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC

far, and a good ford in low stages across the Vermilion and James
rivers. Scarcity of e is a serious objection to winter travel. A
better route in cold weather, or when the streams are flooded, though
somewhat longer, ea nearer the Missouri, crossing the Vermilion
and James rivers at their mouths, and at these two places ferry boats

E should be provided.
I have no special information concerning the route from Fort Pierre
robably good and very direct, but James river

and Tort oo between Fort Kearny and Fort Laramie, between
rors Laramie and Fo iy pial and os Fort Fae and Sioux
city, will be found at the end of this repor

te A good road could be had from near the Be of the Platte iy the

g00
‘mouth of l’Eau qui Court, following the Elk Horn river; it ha
sel by the American Fur Coma but I have no definite ae

tion concerning i
INDIANS AND MILITARY POSTS.

_ The Dacotas occupy most of the country we have been consider ass
and are scattered over an immense territory, extending from the
_ sissippi on the east to the Black Hills on the west, and from the oa
of the Platte on the south to Devil’s Lake on the north. ‘‘They say
heir name means leagued or allied,”’ and they sometim@s speak of
themselves as the ‘ ‘Ocheti Sha aowni, or ‘Seven Council ice
_ These are the seven principal bands ‘hich compose the nation, v
1. The Mde-wakan-tonwans, meaning village of the Spirit ake?
“2. Wahpekutes, meaning leaf shooters.
“3. Wahpe-tonwans, meaning village in
“4. Sisi-tonwans, meaning village of the mars
‘These four constitute the Mississippi and Minnesota Dacotas, and
ay called by those on the Missouri ‘‘ Jsaniies.’’ They are estimated.
t 6,200 souls. Some of these are said to give much trouble to the
ttlers in northwestern Iowa and in Nebraska, and are charged with
utrages during the past season. Fort Ridgely i is in their coun
5. The Ihanktonwans, village ap the end, (Yanktons,) sometimes

a

e leaves. i

-

16 == ~~ ~—s‘« EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN ©

They fought against the Uphiec States in the war of 1812, and thei

chief went on a visit to England. ‘‘ From the Wazikute branch 0

this band the Assinniboins, or Hohe of the Dacotas, are said to hav

spru

a a. The Titonwans, village of the ae are supposed to constitut
more than one-half of the whole Dacota nation They live on thi

western side of the Missouri, and take iii their range the Blacl

Hills from between the forks of the Platte to the Yellowstone river

the whites “yee mares, have never planted corn. hey are dividec

‘into seven bands, v

1. Unkpapas, i, y hal camp by themselves. They live on the Mis
souri near the mouth of the Moret, and roam from the Big Shyenne
up to the Yellowstone, and west to the Black Hills. They formerly
ees extensively with the Shyennes. They number about 36é

3 Sikihecas Blackfeet. Haunts and homes same as the Unkpapas
number 165 lodges. These two bands. have very Aes =e i. the
power of the whites
e-non-pas, two 0 boilings or two kettle band. These
th rnuch scattered among other bands. They number aft “10¢
ory
iP Schangus, burnt thighs, Brulés, claim the country along Whit

river and contiguous to it. They number 480 lodges. They. include
the Wazazhas, to which belonged Matoiya, (the Scattering Bear’
made chief of all the tae by ‘the gover nment, and who was killec
by egmenant Gratta

5. Ogal they oh live in the mountains, live between the forks
of the Platte, and number 360 lodges

nikanyes, they who plant by ‘the water, ~ aoe and between the

forks of “the Shyenne and in the Black Hills ; r ges. F

7. Itahzipchois, Bowpith, Sans Arc, cla aim ak common with the
Minseaayes, and number 170 lodges. These last two binds have
been exceedingly troublesome to the emigration.

e Daco tas, on and west of the Missouri, which it oe all b

the Isanties, are the only ones I have heard estimated. IT should nin
that eight inmates to a lodge, and one-fifth of them warriors,

[= ple. allowance. We would then have

thanktonwans, (Yankto ag e eet
nwann: as (Ya btn : ; 800 6 400
Unkpapas 365 9'920
Sihasapas, ( (Blackfeet) 165 1 980
ee ey cre . 100 "800
Sichangt, ( (Bro Raraci: 480 3,840
cif 9 2,

Minikany vcaee, 900.2 201.600
Isp (Sans Arc) ....0.. oo ee 1,360
Total . veveeee 9,000 24,000

These Dacotas formerly all lived around the headwaters of the |

Bit ete le
al ty ee

id

terms) in advance, leaving their name

river, to the Big Shyenne of the Missouri, and to the section of coun-
try they now occupy between the Platte and the Arkansas.

In the summer the Dacotas follow the buffaloes in their ranges over
the prairie, and in the winter fix their lodges in the clusters or fringes
of wood along the banks of the lakes and streams. The bark of the
cottonwood, which furnishes food for their horses during the winter
snows, have led to immense destruction of this timber, and many
streams have been thinned or entirely stripped of their former beauti-
ful groves. .

Their horses are obtained by traffic with the Indians further south, -
who have stolen them in New Mexico, or are caught wild on the plains
towards the Rocky mountains. The nation is one of the most skilfull
and warlike and most numerous in our Territory; and could they be |

eir 0 be most

made to feel a due confidence in their own powers, would

formidable warriors. In single combat on horseback they have no

_ superiors—a skill acquired by constant practice with their bows and

arrows and long lances, with which they succeed in killing their game
at full speed. The rapidity with which they shoot their arrows, and
the accuracy of their aim, rivals that of a practiced hand with the —

cholera, it is the opinion of some that they are increasing in numbers

virtue.
The love of renown and desire for plunder leads them far from their —

homes, and many of the depredations along the Platte are committed

by the Unkpapas and Sihasapas, whose homes are further from it than

those of any of the Titonwans. The Isanties or Dacotas of the St..
Peter’s also carry their ravages into Nebraska, and are there the most
- dreaded of all the savages.

- When any redress or reparation is sought, or punishment threatened
for these offences, the same excuse is always made: ‘‘The old men
(it, but the young men could not be restrained.’’ So long as

ue pane rtp : ga
the smiles of the females, the admiration of his comrades, and ulti-

: mate influence with his tribe continue to be the reward of daring ex-
_ ploits, these, to say nothing of the Indian’s often absolute necessities,

will prove too strong in the breast of the youthful warrior for the

~ counsels and frowns of age, or for the peaceful policy of the Indian
Bureau

Military occupation is essential to the safety of the whites, and the

military posts should be in such positions, and occupied by such num-_

"

bers, as effectually to overawe the ambitious and turbulent, and sus- —

Ex. Doc. 76-——2

18 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

western limits on our great plains; the tracts beyond must ever be

occupied by a pastoral people, whether civilized or savage. If the

— is not doomed to speedy extirpation, if he is to have a perma-
ere is where it must be located, and the military posts

shoul oon teceplnke a permanency which they have not heretofore pos- ‘
sed.

“Posts situated near the Indians’ homes, designed to restrain, might
be bisa fe infantry, = they should be large from the outset,
to com Those situated near the settlements

_ which the

sprin

With good commanders, and forces sufficient to sustain them in the
measures they ve take for chastising or restraining the Indians, =
protecting them from the injustice of the whites, peace can be m
tained without exterminating the red man, — manliness has eek
to admire, and w ate deserves our sym

aaa. the stlistiete I have mentioned, [ mould recommend that
infantry post be maintained in the neighborhood of Fort Pierre.
all ae cs Sr occupied in the Dacota country this is the most

. Goo

~

a ee. at wa

th of this route.
be kept up at the

a
On Mean of. the Platte, Fort = must, for a lo
— the frontier aetticonen tt, and is a necessary post for the protec-

is one, and makes a most valuable point for pr

So fee
ee

time, be |

Fort Laramie act always be in the Indian country as eleeg as there
to travel.

x

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, BTC.

West of Fort Laramie temporary protection should be afforded, when
_ sarees by patrols and escorts, and also between Forts Laramie and
_ Kearny

= ~ Not Seed than one regiment, four eee a at Fort Kearny, and
. six at Fort oe should be kept = A

If active operations are to be cfrried on during the coming season in
e Dacota country, it is against them the forces casa be di rected,
from both Fort Laramie and Fort Pierre.

punishment inflicted on the Brulés and Ogalalas at Blue Water
“has taught them a useful lesson, which they will not soon forget.

he Pawnees, about eight hundred warriors, with whom the ‘Dacotas
are at war, and the Poncas, three hundred warriors, with whom the
are friendly, occupy the southeastern part of Nebraska : to the south-
west are the Shyennes, one thousand, between whom and the Ogalala
_ Dacotas the most friendly relations exist, The Crows, a powerful and
_ warlike tribe, occupy the country between the Black Hills and Wind
<< = mountains, about the sources of the Yellowstone. They made

_ a treaty of peace with the Dacotas at Horse a in 1849, but they
4 on enemies at heart. The small bands of Mandans, Aricarees, and
_ Minnitares, and the powerful one of the Ansimatboinas are on the north. ©

CONCLUSION.

Very little is known as to the accurate geography and topography of
Crow country and Black Hills, and, in fact, of any portion of

ie west of the Mieaaick and the road from Fort Pierre to Fort

The sakes causes that brought on the war with the Sioux will, no

Semeninanchdatio on te canis ts Con ngress, thr rough the proper channel,
an appropriation of $50,000, for military and geographical e xplo-

braska. :

A reconnaissance, which could be madg at small expense on the Far
mpan Pthe Missouri river from Fort |
lowstone ; one should also be made

20 cu EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

of Loup Fork of the Platte, and of the country between White river
and 1’Kau qui Court, for the purpose of seeking good communication
between Fort Laramie and the Missouri river. Routes from Fort
Laramie to the Yellowstone, and of the country around and between

Accompanying this report is a map of a portion of the Dacota
country, on a scale of 1 to 600,000. It embraces all the explorations —
within the limits compassed by it, including those of Major Long, J.

}
the observations and results are appended to this report. A baro-
fi

also |
location of the different bands of Indians, and such other information _
as I was enabled to obtain from the hunters and trappers. ough it
is not reliable where surveys have not been made, stillitisthe bestthat
our pr ge will i oe

ewitt, —
alpin, Henry Goulet, Alexander
tatements I have endeavored to

_ com
To Mr. J. Hudson Snowden, who assisted me in the meteorological

observations, and in working out the results, nearly all the merit is

due which they may possess. These observations and results, with

notes on the weather on all - routes travelled, are annexed to this

report, under the head of meteorology. .

A. number of skins of birds were collected, among which were the

| THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 21

= oF Bad river, in longitude 102°, the white-headed avoset, (Recur-

— 103°. The first of these has hitherto only been found near the Pacific

a B nitric
fit is, erhaps, proper to allude here to the journey performed from
_ Fort Pierre to Fort Kearn ny, since nearly all the knowledge I have
: eee ,and whatever service I may have rendered, resulted immediately
rom

When I was preparing for the undertaking, and had secured a party

of six persons, exclusive of Mr. Carrey and myself, I was counselled

- most earnestly by my brother ‘officers not to make it, and the com-
_Mmanding officer at Fort Pierre thought nae of interposing his

_ authority as my military superior to prevent so “‘rash’’ an atte mpt,

_ which presented to him nothing but a prospect of th my certain detent
tion. The route was known to lead through the ona’ of the
cea” (supposed to be our worst enemies,) an nothing was
_ known as to their position or intention.. We would, also, it was said,

2 treat the sone oe Pawnees, and neither would hesitate to rob, or

areful conversation with the men of the country. e weather was
o warm, it being the first of August, for the war parties to
ave formed, and it was the season for making “© sweet corn ,’ so tha

he Indians would likely be thus engaged. The e party was made up of
he most experienced prairie men, four of them bein g half-breed
Dacotas, and we were well armed; we were determined to be con-

o fire
Mr. Galpin, of the Fur Sith patty ‘assured me ea didn not be-

rulés in the Sand Hills, and some deserted Pawnee camps on Lo
York, but no Indians. We performed the journey in fifteen days. :
_ I was thus enabled to carry roe hs instructions under which I had
gone é to Fort Pierre to participate in the campaign under Gener
arney, and perform the taitiba required of me as topographical
eer of the expedition,
hope this explanation will free me from any charge of having acted
with ea or imprude

22 j= #XPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

vation west of the 97th meridian ; that the Territory is occupied by —

rful tribes of roving savages, and is only adapted to a mode of —
ife such as theirs ; that it must long remain an Indian country ; that —
the Indians should be made to feel the power of the United States; —
that the military posts, in consequence, should contemplate perma-
nency ; that Forts Laramie and Pierre are the most important positions

r, sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, —

uate Lieutenant Topographical Engineers.

Brevet Brig. Gen. W. F. Harney, ~ :
U. S. army, commanding Sioux expedition.

be eR IEE ov a at gl

_ DETAILS OF ROUTES.

Latitude, longitude, altitude, and magnetic declination.

APPROXIMATE.
Place. Latitude. | Longitude. | Altitude. | Mag. var.

“ . an hice ly aor é i" 1 7 omar, ® ot pes of

° oy Feet.

Fort Ridgely... Cx MBE O95 07 eh
Sioux City 42 32 96 26 | 1,250
Fort Kearny 40 38} 9906 | 2,000
Fort Pierre 4493:| 10024:| 1,504
Fort Laramie... 42 12: 10431; | 4,250

ee a eae

Description of route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.

NOTES. Mie

we ; ss Distance from

| Fort Pierre.
Fort Pierre, situated on a high bottom land on the right bank

: of the Missouri river—grass very scanty, there having been
no spring rain. Left Fort Pierre, Aucust 8, 1855.

( tom land—a dark, sticky, clay soil, with sage.

growing mpon it, for two miles; then crosses a high, nar-

ge to Bad river, at a good ford, with

rock m. When flooded, must be ferried, 4} miles

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.

Preven a from
Fort Pierre.

_~ Bad river—Wakpa Shicha—is sometimes called Little Missouri,
sometimes Teton river---wood and grass fine.

August 9.—Road over high rolling prairie; crosses the sources
of Antelope river and Cedar river, - east branch of Medi-
cine river. After passing the divide of ee Bh soil
good, with fine grass. These ites in dry s gene-
rally contain water in holes, and have aval aoa
and willow on their banks, ‘furnishing fuel. They are
from 10 to a feet wide, an d their banks from 4 to 5 feet
high. Whe n occupied with running water, bed will be
found dade, and should be crossed carefully. From Bad

+» river to Antelope.river, 94 miles ee - - 13%
Thence to Cedar creek, 94 miles Z - 232
Thence to East branch of Medicine river, 10 miles 334

August 10.—Crossed Medicine river just below the e forks saw
a fresh ‘track of a buffalo bull, 2 miles _ voce. S854

About 5 Erion further on we gain the divide between Measonre

n ite rivers—soil is now rather poor, and the ridge
setae a some small lake bees, which have water in the :
sprin 404

From this a looking south, the whole horizon south
of White river is occupied with high broken prairie ridges
and peaks. We roeb on this high lake ridge about 4 miles,
and descend a line of bluffs, along the foot of which are
the sources of the side branches of White river ; thence to
White river, 8 miles 524
The road to-day was good —erfas rather thin, aan no wood nor

water.
ugust 11.—White river—Mankisita W.—High from recent
rain, but falling. Spent the day examining zp. and down
the stream, and forded it in the afternoon. ford isa
fair one, with rocky bottom, but it must be carefully eXx-
amined on " foot before crossing, and every animal should be
led or ridden over, as the least wandering from the proper

course may mire it inextricably. e stream is now 480
wide, water muddy, of a white color, 1 to 3 feet deep,
its immediate banks some 5 feet higher. e forded it

at the highest stage of water practicable, if higher it must
be ferried. The valley is about one mile wide, and nearly
all overflowed i in freshets. The bluffs are 100 feet high,
and loaded Wagons could ascend and descend without dif
fi

luxuriantly, and elk, deer, and antelope may be found in
ela numbers. About 20 miles above this ford are the

Augist 13. —Road over slightly rolling prairie. In about 2
miles pass near Oak cre at thence 8} miles to small branch
of Two-tail aon, 11 mil 3

ee

_ This is a beautiful stream of clear water, about twenty yards

*,

24 -—S- EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN :

Distance from
: Fort Pierre.
Here wood for fuel, and good grass; continuing on with Tw
tail cr 2 miles east, over good route, to head of this

stream, 9 miles - : - - - - T2h 4
At this place the stream is 15 to 20 feet wide, water in holes, :
bank 5 to 10 feet feet high, bottom generally sandy, grass
good in spots, cottonwood, cak, and willow, good size

reached the Platte river. The soil is now becoming sandy.
High table-land ridges were about 5 miles to the west, said
_to have springs at their base, and here Two-tail creek has

: its source..
August 13.—Route good to a head branch of Dog’s Ears creek,
142 miles - - ~ - - ~
Here clear spring water in considerable quantity, good grass,
ut no wood; some trees flourish 2 to 3 miles further down.
The soil has now become exceedingly sandy, but generally
covered with grass. On the ridges a soft calcareous sand-
stone crops out, and we are now in the region that 3
character to the distant view to be had from the northern
divide of White river. These ridges havea general south-

east direction.

The Dag’s Ears hills,(Les Buttes des Oreilles de Chien,) two
small prominent hills of this sandstone formation, lie about
two miles to the east of us, and have served as a landmark
since leaving White river, We now cross an easy divide,
and enter the basin of White lake, a clear, beautiful little
sheet of water, much resorted to by the Indians. The
basin is very sandy, but covered with vegetation, and here

. we first meet with the sand cherry, the fruit being as large

toward which you proceed over rolling, grass-covered sand.
rT

wide, which, flowing over a sandy bottom , Tenders it easy “a
to ford; the immediate banks are three to four feet high.

Large and magnificent cottonwood grows on its banks, but
the trees merely fringe the stream. Wild plums and cher-
ries abound ; the grass is excellent, and a small portion of
its valley could be used for raising corn, This river is a

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. — 95

Distance from
Fort Pierre.

White river, and is a tributary to Rapid river. White
lake lies about half-way from the Dog’s Ears to Turtle
Hill; there are a few trees on its banks ; the beach is white
sand. Tracks of buffalo bulls had now become frequent,
Sa and in White lake basin we saw a wild horse. - .
_ August, 14.—Route passes along the right bank of Turtle Hill
iver for 6 miles, crossing a little branch with running
; ater ; gradually leaving the river we strike a branch 4
miles further on, with running water, but no wood, and
ursue it to near its source; thence over sandy prairie to
apid river, 244 miles, all the way sandy; a little wild
rice-was seen. Rapid river—l’Eau qui Court, or Nio-
brara, is a name given it by the Ponca Indians; the Daco-
tas eall it ‘‘ Mini Tanka”’ or Big Water. It flows witha | a
very swift current over a sandy bed, and between blufis os!
140 feet high, which here approach each other so closely as
to leave but a very narrow intermediate valley, not aver-
aging one quarter of a mile. - - - - 1254
stream is from 180 to 250 yards wide at the ford, 3} to 4 "s
eet deep in the deepest places, and the current so strong —
i ’s feet ; the intermediate bot-+

100%

ae
©

springs of water. All the ravines are filled with pine,
(some of it 60 to 70 feet high,) scrubby oak and some ash ;
on the low bottom lands there is some little cottonwood.

but, as we were likely in pursuing it to meet war parties
of savages, we determined to take the more direct and un-—

26 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Distance from

Fort Pierre.

ere route through the = Hills, —— none of
the party had ever been this

August 1b. —Travelled over oliig: ine hills ten to forty feet
high, increasing in height and abruptness as we advanced ;
clothed with grass and interspersed with sedgy lakes,
having inn bottoms, in some of which are small fis h.
There is no wooc mall willows, dry roots of the sand
cherry, and wild rose, = i. buffalo chips’ furnished fuel
in’ small quantities. Can camp almost anywhere near
the small ponds. Saw 2a buffalo bulls, and —e
were thick. Days march 273 miles.

dag 17.—Winding among the sand hills, ehick frequently
forced us quite ‘out of our course, and beginning to fee
some anxiety as to what we were coming to, we enadenls
— from them into the maey of Calamus en =

This - aanaeel to te, a iiaooks of Loup Fork of the Platt
ts valley is 14 miles wide, the stream. about yards
widla, water clear, 1 to 3 feet deep, immediate ect seenk

4 feet high, easily forded ; no wood exists where we crossed,
e

as seen about 5 miles further down ; grass
luxuriant; travelled on and camped at a small pond i in the
sand hills ; ae sand hills to-day very bad ; 4 miles -

Au. 18.—After winding through and over very bad san
hills for 12 miles, we suddenly issued from them into the
broad valley of a stream, which was supposed to be a
branch of = oup Fork. Travelling didiagiates across the

valley we reached the river, which, in the absence of any”

10 |

known name, was called Warren’s fork. Fourteen and
miles —

a half
This is scieat running stream, 150 paca site; spread ently

The stream does not, sa exiviioi its rior which
: are now 3 to 4 feet above the water. Continuing our

Pawnee, Loup, or Wolf a a nasil of the Platte, is here
220 wide, a out. over its whole bed, and
whee more than 3 feet deep. The water is clear and ihe

+>
and lined with medium sized cottonwood trees and willow.

senor: pees some dry ed, but steep ravines, we’

the immediate banks about 4 to 8 feet high, :

1324

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.

cut u e
impracticable at this place for wagons, and we ought to
have gone down the stream 8 or 10 miles.) Having
gained the ridge, our route was good, over high prairie,
4 with some dry lake beds, and no wood nor permanent water
= to Muddy creek, 19} miles - .

Muddy creek here’is a small running stream, twenty feet wide,
with banks ten feet high, and steep, with muddy bottom,
and is troublesome to cross; grass good; wood scarce, but

lenty lower down. Fresh signs of buffalo now wer

Fi,

abundant, and several bulls were seen to-day. '
A -20.—Route led us over many secondary ridges and
After going 14 miles crossed Beaver creek, a small running

stream, a little larger than Muddy creek, to which it is
in every respect similar, but has considerable wood along
its banks, and beaver dams in the stream. Continued on

.. for 5 miles ; camped at a poor water hole, with no wood ;

|
:
i
|
| valleys, and was laborious for the animals.
.

- day’s march 19 miles ~—- - - -
A 91.—Route to-day good. Reached in 12 miles a clear
stream, fifty yards wide, with sandy bottom, banks fro

rea y
4 to 10 feet high, and lined with cottonwood and willow ;

os 31 miles - - - :
_ The crossing of the Platte gave us no trouble, as it was no
~~~ where more than 1 foot deep, and spread out. over its bed,
here a mile wide; the slough north of Grand island is
about 30 yards wide; the banks of the Platte are 4 to 5
feet above the bed; the valley is 5 to 8 miles wide, and
_ rarely overflowed. ks ee

a7

Distance from
Fort Pierre.

234

210° 8

28 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Route from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie.

Distance from
Fort Kearny.

map 24, 1855.—Marched 10 miles over fine road, and en
mped. on Ao Platte ; Bee BOO > no road on south ive
. of tl the
August 25. fea fins: buffalo numerous. Chiaped: on the
Platte; good grass, but no wood; day’s march 194 miles
August 26. ” “Road nos ; crossed Plum creek about 4 miles
from morning camp ; buffalo along the route ; camped on
the Platte; good Bee no wood; day’s march 18 miles -
August 27. —Road good ; camped on the Platte near the foot
of Brady’s island ; buffalo plenty ; day’s march 17} miles
Aug pew 28.—Road eood ; camped at Cottonwood spring, a fine
e of cool water ; “no water in the Platte.this side of the
isla some little wood ; cedar plenty on the bluffs south
of the ’ road ; Ee re to-day all bulls ; aay, s march 234

miles
‘Augul 29, Road fine ; “aanped at a water hole about 2 miles
from the south fork ; Brees good , ae scarce
a and all of them bulls ; ; day’s aria thr h 18
August 30.—Road good ; crossed 0° Fallen’s Mu (not high )
| ead asnied about 2 miles eyond, on a «slough ; ; Woo

ood ; wood ; day’s march 153 miles -

September ae a Bind to-de ey somewhat muddy from att night’ s
rain ; camped on the river ; grass Books no wood ; day’s
march 214 miles -

September 2 _—Reai ched cr ossing of south dork, 5 miles from
morning camp; stream about 700 yards wide, crossing

easy, water 18 inches to 2 feet deep; camped just above
: Ash Hollow on the north ad grass thin ; a little cedar
Ps wood on the bluffs ; day’s m rch 24 3 mile: g
The descent into Ash Hollow is "vet steep, and mach labor
wo required to pe GN it permanently, as the slope
is in part of rock. I examined the locality for a half a
wel and faata no place naturally superior to the one now

: Septenibae 5, 6, 1 and 8 Wate: spent in recruiting the dhtmnall
; reconnoitering, and constructing Fort Grattan, &e.
_ September 9.—Road ; camped ie the river ; good Breet, ;

1893

1923

zp

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 29
Distance from
; : Fort Kearny.
fine cool stream of water ; 8 miles further came to Ancient
) Ruins bluffs, which are so close to the river that we were
obliged to go over the ridge; the slopes are gradual, but
on the west side the sand is thick; road to-day in placeg j
heavy with sand ; camped on the river; grass fine ; day’s
arch 181} miles - - - - .
September 11.—Road good ; river makes considerable bend and
there is a fine grassed bottom between it and the road ;
there were many deer in it; we passed Court House rock
on the south side; camped on the river, with good grass,

i but no wood; day’s march 18} miles -
September 12.—To-day passed Chimney Rock on the south side
& of the stream; the river forms here another large bend,
making the road near the bluffs some 2 to 3 miles off; there is
x another road not much longer, near the river, which is
good in dry weather ; camped on the Platte; grass good ;
: a little wood ; day’s march 254 miles - - - 2742
September 13.—After marching 12 miles, we came to a place
: where the bluffs approach close to the stream, and here is

a fine spring creek with good grass and wood, extending

along south of the road for 3 miles; we passed on, and

camped on a sedgy slough, with good water and grass,

but no wood ; day’s march 17} miles - - ~ 292
Road to-day good; passed Scott’s Bluffs about half way.
September 14.—Road good; day’s march 18 miles - = - +310
Passed another fine spring creek, which runs parallel with the

road, on the south side, for 4 miles, and camped on the

2493

at the head of this creek.

September 15.—Road to-day in places heavy with sand ; wood
all along the Platte, but no grass; crossed the dry sandy
bed of Raw-hide creek, about 9 miles from camp ; campe

‘ opposite the mouth of Laramie river; no grass; day’s

: ‘march 25 miles = - - - - ay eter

September 16.—Nearly all the animals were sent about 15 miles
up the Laramie river to pasture, but even there grass was

5 oor.
Fhe esa from Ash Hollow to Fort Laramie, on the south

side of the north fork, as given in Captain Stansbury’s
report, is 1494 miles; by the north side it is 1454 miles.

Route from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre. s

. - Distance from

Fort Laramie. —

Fort Laramie is situated on the north side of Laramie river,
1 mile from the Platte. There are two ways of reachin,

White river from this fort that have been travelled with

30. EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

sey am seein

wagons ; one of them, as described to me by Mr. Poclings,

is to go down the Platte about 8 miles, then north, cross-
ing Raw-hide creek in 8 miles; thence to first fork of
Spgon-hill creek, 12 miles; thence to the second fork, four
miles; thence to V Eau qui Court river, 12 miles ; travel

down |’Kau qui Court, 12 miles; then go north 12 miles to be
head of Deadman’s creek ; then along it 6 miles to White a
river ; the last 6 miles are bad ; this route then joins the ?

other, and is probably preferable. The army took the other
route, which str — White river near its source. The
route is as follow ; ae
— 29, 1855. a eS the north fork of the Platte 1 |
e from the fort ; river about 130 yards wide, water in 2
ilages 3 feet deep, current strong, bottom hard with ec
boulders, stream not fordable when high: camped a: |
spring hole; grass bad, no woo aoe road good, a ome wily

containing 1 2
me Marhed 934 miles tol Eau qui Court river, road

soe no intermediate camping place ; a little water can
ie had 4 miles from morning camp. L’ Hau qui Court here
is from 10 to 15 feet wide; clear running water, bneea on
fish, bottom sandy ; grass ; fine ; no wood—formerly there
was ‘plenty, but it has been used up by the mie fee pee
heads 8 near Raw-hide peak ; saw numerous bands of buffalo

-

to-day - 4
October 2.—Marched 1g miles to near the salad of White river; s
road good ; descent to the stream very steep; stream 4 to
s! = wide, with large holes, water clear, © ottom sandy ;
ass good; no — except small willows ; fuel plenty 1

other. Exact source of the river not ‘kno wn. Sak
October 3.—Marched 11 miles down White river, crossing it 11 “-
ee. 3 immediate banks not high and bottom hard ; the ;

: gins no ww to widen out; grass goo
October 4.—Crossed the stream, marched

on the right bank at sk He mouth of De ¢ miles an | camped

adenine s aged ; grass

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.

Along White river good grass and wood will be found at almost
every point the remainder of the way; the road is gen-
erally fine in dry weather, but, being clayey, is very heavy
in wet seasons. The high rocky bluffs recede on the south
side to a distance of from five to twenty miles, and in the
north are only eccngen pails to be seen. Beaver abound in
all the streams, and deer along the banks; the bottom of
the stream is generally muddy and care must be used in
approaching it. The route continues along the stream till
forced away by the high bluffs of the Bad Lands.

Uctober 5,—Crossed White Clay creek with ease, 83 miles from

morning camp ; water of a milky color. White river, be-

fore clear, now assumes a white tinge; crossed White river

8 miles epee on. Das march. 174 maslea; ‘aes good,

and crossing ea

October 6. = Magched 16 miles ; “lds 8 mules “ road Po bee

several wagons being overturned, and many: things broken

earing.
October 7. aw ched 194 miles; road soa, pia a foie cross-
ings side ravines; these might be much mare ;

eros are two or three considerable hills.
October 8, icc 16 miles; road good: Sharp-tailed grouse
quite numero
Uses 9. a a "Butte Caché abet: 2 pathos from morning
amp; this is so low as to be hidden by the trees; the
losatisy is a favorite resort for.the Indians in winter, and
the Fur Company have built trading houses here, which are
now abandoned. Crossing White river at a good ford
half a mile further on, we meen on the night bank;
day’s march 14 miles; roa
October: 10.—Passed through a mall: Aeribed ats the Bad Lends
day’s march 64 miles. Camped on the right bank, one mile
above Wounded Knee creek, a favorite resort of the In-
dians. Two miles below this, a very hi gh ridge of the
Bad Lands comes down to the river. The road now leaves
White river and, proceeding directly throngh the Bad
Lands, gains the side branch of the Shyen White river
continues its way through the high precipitous se of
Bad Lands, from which it emerges near the fork,
a distance in a straight line of 95 miles. There are no
streams of any size running into it on the left bank, but
on the south or right bank there are many, from 20 to
40 miles long, with clear running waite “~ are —
resorted to by the Indians.
October 11.—Crossed White river, ere. 40 ane ile:
good ford, and fairly entered the Bad Tenis ; road fair i in
=. ary weather, but crooked; camped at Ash Grove spring,

situated on a ridge; grass good; ash wood plenty, and -
good water. There are very deceptive miry places in the —

Distance from
Fort Laramie.

32 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Distance med
Fort Larami

a Er and the animals Pek Sees saa s
march, 183} miles; no intermedi

animals. Spring on the side hill furhishaud good water,
but quantity limited. Some ash wood around the Sec iar
grass indifferent. Day’s march 13} miles.

October 13.—Nine miles from morning camp, crossed Sage
creek, about one mile above its forks ; banks on Sage creek
high and hard to pull up; water in holes, tolerable ; grass
good; wood plenty; marched to Bull creek, 113 miles on,
here grass good, wood sufficient, water in holes, good ;

s travel 203 miles, road being over high prairie. -° 2123

_ October 14. —Marched to Pinos spring, one of the head branches

Bad river; descent to the valley of the stream quite
steep ; valley here three to five miles broad; water ina
hole, a little salt ; wood one mile of ere ee
day’s march, over good road, 173 mil

October 15.—Marched to Grindstone Puttes creck (Buttes aux
Gres creek) 18} miles; road good; passed several good
pe rs at t camp, grass — water sport wood

October 16. Sa sone e wood after Ste 4 miles, ‘aiid Hig

prec en creek 4 miles further on

it so! n d
pi ille creek ; a little wood; water in holes, cael : _
; day’s march 214 miles, road good. —

October 18.—Passed tolerable camping lice in six miles
marched to Water Holes creek ; water good ; grass fairs
no wood ; trees about one ssi down stream ; 5 day” s march
144 miles ; road good.

October 19.—Good road to erossing of Willow reek, 17 miles,

teak: slightly & silt ; camped at Fort Pierre ; day’s march
25 one — ‘the ~gpemge oe not si where the road
escen

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.

Route from Fort Pierre to Sioux City.

35

oe thar

he
. The ferrying across the Missouri, on account of the low Lorn
; ie re to be done at a point about os miles above the fort,
d the distances are from this plac
October 27.—Took the road over high wow prairie to the mouth
of Medicine creek, 22 miles. “Here good saben water and
wood; stream 20 yards wide
October 28.—First two miles along sie foot ag the Missouri

- grass.
October 29.—Route took to the high prairie; reached Chaine
oche creek in 15} miles; no wood nor water; 54 miles

farttian, we head a ravine with a little water, and. no wood ;
thence to Campbell’s creek, 163 miles ; here plenty of wood,
— and grass; — all the eS good; tie 8 march aT

October 30. ~—Marched 5 miles; crossed Shompepi oxbak, veadhe %
. plenty of wood, running water and grass; 5 miles further.

combed on Elm Cen plenty of wood, running water and

Rovere 1. 2: Mayoheas over iad dent 173 ils, re Crow
cree ere good grass and water, ‘but no wood. -
November > After going six miles, imperceptibly reached a

bir it, ana camped ; here grass and water, but very
little w ood ; day’s march 234 tlie, over good roa -
November 3. pe oceeded wits southside of Fire Steel creek to
camp; day’s march, 19} miles; wood, water and grass
a good; camp 4 to 5 miles from James river. We were now
eS on burnt prairie, which continued the rest of the j journey,
and grass could only be found in panes in es

Edit

laces @
Movewber! ds otrossed Toka isi W. or sdbating! s orutics in 10
miles; here are wood, water and grass ; stratified rocks are
along. its banks below the crossing; thence to iv. & Jaques
or James river, or Chan San W., (White Wood river,) 8}
miles; thence to camp on James river, 44 miles ; day’s s
ae march, 231 miles - -

_ The crossing of James river is at a boulder rapid, dnd is good;
there is no other ford; the banks are miry, and care must
be taken in approaching. When flooded, its valley is sub-
merged for a mile in width, and cannot pe forded. The
stream is about 25 yards wide, with full banks—it is 70 or
80 yards wide; wood enough for fuel exists along the
stream
November 5.—Proceeded along James river 33 miles; thence
to “oy terth creek, Maka Sapa Ouza, (the Glace held

Ex. . 76-—3

ort Pier:

1193
139}.

1623

34 : EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Distance from
Fort Pierre.

they get black earth;) 12? miles; here are oak wood, water
and grass; road good; day’s march, 16 miles

November 6.—To head of Turkey Ridge creek, 123 riftes': kept
on the north side for 4 miles; water, but no wood, and

camping in the Turkey Ridge, Zhicha Kaga; oak woo
here, and water in springs; Age laeee all burnt off;

November 7.—Proceeded over the high prairie, studded with
little lakes, and left the Coteau du Missouri about 9 miles
“before reachin g the Vermilion; day’s march, 274 miles -

The road, since leaving Fort Pierré e, has been over eravel and
boulders of the drift formation, covered with soil only one
or two inches thick, and consequently hard and good for
roads at all times. From here to the settlements the soil

is thick and dark, as in lowa, and proba te as fertile; it ©

will make very heavy roads in wet weather

ever, no other ford, except at its head; there is _plenty of

oak wood here for fuel, and fine grass

November 8.—Road_to- -day good, over fine fertile prairie to
' Lungs creek ; here wood, water and grass; day’s march,
16 miles =

November 9. ~ Str uck the Big tious siftes going 114 miles ;
. thence to the Pe. le ferry, 154 re from the pict! to

Sioux city is 7 m

As this route has ate “little ee it is not sete in very aad

weather, and as at such times we = calculate on cross-
ing the Vermilion and James rivers, near their mouths, on
the ice, the route near the Missouri river should be taken.

The following distances, &c., along it were given x6 by .

out from the blu , in 16 ne you reach White Clay creek ;

water in a ke ‘and wood plenty; thence to Jamesr river,

17 miles; from this river to the forks of Manuel creek is 25
iniles, and here you are 12 miles from the Missouri, not far
from 1’Eau qui Court river; at the forks plenty of wood.
The next camp would be on Andy’s lake, 27 miles; here
wood i is ee from ee lake to Peep creek, 14

eke

1791

2403

267
274

ree © pire a el

Ce ne PEL reer eas

é

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 35

Distances from» St. Louis to the mouth of Yellowstone river.

ae |

APPENDIX B.
Survey of Military Reserve at Fort Pierre.

Fort Prerre, August 7, 1855.

ort Kearny in from fifteen to twenty days. e shall
_ and exercise the greatest vigilance.
an Indian who arrived to-day, are in

lackfeet Sioux are dispe
and Powder rivers, and on the head of the

Miles. | Miles
From St. Louis— H From St. Louis—
To mouth of Missouri river ...... s 20 | To James river 1113
To St. Charles 45 | To Sleigil’s Fort, or Dare Hills .... 1143
To mouth of Gasconade river..... 129 | To head of Bonhomme island...... 1158
To mouth of Osage river ......... 164 | Tol’Eau qui Court river .......+.. 1193
Tor h of Grand river.. ao gue To Grand I 1233
To Lexington City ...-.sescecseee 370 o Cedar island 1283
To Kansas river 456 || To Bijou Hills 1313
To Fort Leavenworth ..........-» 498 |), To White Earth river ..........+ a) 4983
To Fort Weston 505 | To Old Fort aux Cedres (Second
To Fort St. Joseph 590 ’ Cedar island) 1347
To Fort*Belleviexcs eo. ies. sees oo BAG To Fort Lookout teem Aa6e
To Omaha and Kanesville........ 742 || To Fort of Great Bend 1383
- To Old Council Bluffs S07 |. Fo Medicine erage’... 65.,-.:es0es 1413
To Latile Sivak fiVe6T esac ik oes 882 To Third Cedar island ge 1490
“Po Cookia dod Yard iissssceece (897 To Old Fort George 1454 -
To Wood’s Bluff 912 To Fort Pierre 147
To Blackbird Hills ............... 927 |) To Big Shyenne 3 1538
To Chalk Bank 942 To mouth of Moreau river.......... 1634
6 GPRRE UL GTEOK bocce ees oe oes cee 958 Cannon Ball river 17
To O ity 964 To Heart river 1814
To Sargent’s Bluffs........+eesie2 978 | ToFortClark,orthe Aricaree village 1879
o Big Sioux river .....s....s.00- 983 To Fort Berthold, or the Gros Ventres
To Towa Bluffs .. © 1028 | _village 944
To Fort Vermilion 1043 | To Fort of Big Bend 1984
To Verinilion rivet. 6.6.) Sc. ess 1063.) To White Earth river 2034
To Petit Arc rive 1088 | To mouth of the Yellowstone...... 2184

36 ' EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

I send herewith a sketch of a survey from Chantier river to Antelope

ence may enable the War Department to reduce the reserve to
much smaller dimensions. This year, the country is presented to us

The islands that do not generally overflow (there are none wholly
exempt from floods) are good for cultivation. The one included in

‘to be ample for furnishing the necessary quantity of wood, grass,and.s ~

arable land. The ravines in the bluffs

cattle in winter, as they furnish shelter and food, and the earliest

grass in spring. I have not completed my examination of the Little
ri, and it is for that reason, I have left it out on the sketch.

n
former alternative, and visited all that was necessary to satisfy my-
: e same party that goes with me to Fort Kearny, and
they knew the country well. About four miles above Chantier river
is Galpin’scamp, with the party that vacated Fort Pierre on the arrival
- This is a good site, has a considerable quantity of grass

ee THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. | 37

and wood, but not much timber fit for building; the landing i is not
f good, better, however, than that of Fort Pierre, and it is in general a
more eligible locality.

The next place worth speaking of is De Bouis’ point. This
strip of bottom land about five miles long, and from a quarter to tees
quarters of a. mile wide; it has an abundance of the finest grass and
_ timber, and a permanently y good landing. This place and Crook’s
‘point, nearly opposite, would furnish all the supplies needed; there
_ seems, however, no place to locate a fort which would not be too far
- from the river without subjecting it to being slightly flooded during
ss extraondinayy freshets ; the bottom is also so flat as to probably remain.
wet long after arain. The next desirable location is on what is called _

me <The ae below the Shyenne;’’ this is a prairie from fifty to a
hundred feet above the river, about five or six miles long, north and
south, and a mile anda quarter wide; at the upper side there is a
fine permanent ging, and there is said to be one at me lower —
There is a fine belt of wood at the lower end, and just at the u
3 end i is a large island probably equal in every respect to Oe one. Sivluded
“inthereserve. Altogether this point is a desirable one, and apparently
offers, right at hand, nearly all the resources of pe country. It is,
eby water, forty-five or fifty miles above Fort rre. Formerly an.
Aricaree village existed here of more than shad handréd lodges. I
have been informed that the American Fur lompany intend. building
upon it, but this is, as yet, doubtful. The general opinion is that the
trade with the Sioux in this vicinity is ruined forever, and that it will
not be profitable to incur the expense of establishing a trading post.
The immediate vicinity of the mouth of the Shyenne i is not good or
establishing a military post; the north side is the best, and is good
for trading. Dupuis is camped there with the party formerly at Fort
George. ‘T believe they intend to build houses, and occupying it per-
= manently, Above the Shyenne, there are said to be many good ——
_ for woo

eo nd

rises, and falls equally fast; it is very crooked; and when high, has a
very ’ swift current ; Mackinac boats have been brought down in time
het Dane but it does not promise much in the way of steam
navigat T have said nothing about the roads to and from the
different laos spoken of. In this respect they are all about equal.

: ‘With s ome labor on the first mile and a half of the bluffs, the road —
“4 in dry eather would become good for loaded wagons, In vou any

Black Talle between the forks of the Shyenne 7
The Moreau road crosses the Shyenne fifteen miles from its mouth:
ere is pootet crossing three miles from its mouth.

38 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

The sketches must be excused for want of neatness, as they were
made with the least possible facilities.

In what I have so far accomplished, I have been essentially aided
by Mr. Paul Carrey.

Whatever may be the comparative defects in the site of Fort Pierre
for a military post, it is evident that it is the only one in this part of
the country that could be occupied this year as a depot, and the labor
that will have been expended before another season comes around may
render the removal of the post an affair of doubtful expediency.

. am, sir, your obedient servant,

fae ;
Lieutenant Topographical Engineers.
Major O. F. Wrysurp,
Assistant Adjutant General,
Of Sioux Expedition.

APPENDIX ¢.
Report of September 4, 1855, and sketch of Battle Ground at Blue
Water Creek.

rally abrupt and three to four feet high, requiring care when
proached on horseback. It will be seen the stream

Sem,

Pata Peat

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 39

11 Ogalalas) given on the sketch. He says the number of prisoners
taken is about seventy, of whom four are Ogalalas, of the family of
__ Chan-ta-pe-tan-ya, being his. squaw and three children. The Brule
chief, Little Thunder, was not killed. Campbell gained his informa-
tion from the prisoners. None of them know the length of the Blue ;
Water creek, but suppose it to be about fifteen miles, and to have its
source in a lake of the Sand Hills. |
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
G. Ko Was

peo ones =

ie EN,
Lieutenant Topographical Engineers.
Major O. F. Wuxsurp,
o Assistant Adjutant General,
- Headquarters Sioux Expedition.

Nore.—The Indians were killed in places far apart, and in situations where the dead bo-
dies cvuld not easily be seen, so that it was almost impossible to make a ct estimate of
the slain from observation after the fight. I passed very close to one body several times
without discovering it till the fourth day after, when my attention was only attracted to it by
a group of ravens i

Pe the paee as ee

—___——

APPENDIX D.
Meteorology.

The notes on the weather while travelling, from June 15 to November
16, 1855, are given by themselves. The thunder storms appeared to

olence.

g, south winds were ‘always followed by thunder
showers from the west ; sometimes this south wind, falling during the
night and beginning in the morning, lasted three and four days before
a thunder storm came. I was told by one of the traders of the American
Fur Company, that some twelve years ago there was a snow storm in
the month of May, when the trees were in leaf, that caused a fall of

tiree feet of snow at Chaine de Roche creek, near the Great Bend. It
lasted a day and night, and was accompanied by appalling wig 5 a

a
great many buffalo perished, and the Indians lost numbers of their

Snow storms, in the region of Fort Pierre, are very uncertain, and —
come up very suddenly. Several persons nave perished from these not

remainder of the season. oa
‘The climate is evidently not well adapted to agricultural a

and loss to the flocks and herds of a pastoral population.

and the occasional severity of the winters would cause great suffering 4

40 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

The observations at Fort Pierre were made mainly by Mr. J. Hudson ~ j

Snowden, being relieved from 12 o’clock at rosy till 6 in the morning
by Mr. Paul Carrey and myself. Our short stay, and numerous other
and fatiguing duties during this eaen season, prevented the observa-
tions being extended over a longer per
e psychrometer was made by tes Green, of New York, and is
the same as that adopted by the Smithsonian Institution. The ob-
servations made with it at Fort Pierre are in every way reliable, as the
circumstances were favorable to eecuins the proper air temperature,
the air having free circulation, and there being no sun’s rays or re-
flecting bodies to influence the ott Sane the wet bulb was kept
constantly moist, by being encased with a thin linen rag dipping into
a vial of water, and care was taken to keep the moisture in the proper,
quantity over the
The barometers recat were James Green’s syphons, Nos. 1013 and
1014. At the time of comparison his standard read 30.107, and the
height of the barometric column given by syphon No. 1013 was 30.106,
and by syphon No. 1014 was 30. 116. These instruments remained in
perfect condition till they were accidentally broken—No. 1013 near
Fort Pierre, and No. 1014 near Fort Laramie
Table I gives the observations, altitudes, and distances-on the route
from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny; and table II from Fort Kea pane to
Fort Laramie. i table IIT the temperature of evaporation i
as observed with the wet bulb thermometer, and the diffevente st this
and the dry bulb thermometer similarly exposed, both Fahrenheit.
From the readings of the wet bulb thermometer and these differences
the elastic force of eather aqueous vapor is deduced, and the per
- centage of the saturation existing at the time, both by aid of Regnault’s
tables. The elastic force of vapor, being the share of the barometric
hekgh made up by the vapor cf the atmo osphere, ranges here from .15.
0 .80 ofaninch. In tables IV and V, the mean of ‘this elastic force
fas the several hours of successive days, i is obtained. The last of these —
- shows a small curve of force through the day, attaining - maximum
at 2p. m., and falling to its minimum at the colder hour
~The relative humidit , or per centage of saturation, is oe, several
se falling below thirty per cent., and only once or twice rising to
satu

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETO. Al

of corrections are “large, but they are clearly within a determined
range shown to exist at Fort Pierre by these observation
‘These corrections are applied in all the computations of altitude, as
well as correction for the non-periodic Met inion obtained by compari-
son with the barometric observations made by the United States medi-
cal department at Forts Snelling ie ee and Leavenworth.
. It will be seen that I place the altitude (1,504) of Fort Pierre
z ane the same as that given by Nicollet, Fort Kearny (360 feet) be-
low that given by Captain Stansbury, and Fort Laramie (269) below
that given by him. After careful examination of my own observa-
tions, "Tam constrained thus to differ.
Mr. J. Hudson Snowden made nearly all the calculations, and de-
duced the results given in the tables, and Mr. Lorin Blodget yes
me in the preparation and arrangement of this portion of the wo

NOTES ON THE WEATHER.

Saturday, June 15.—Left Fort Leavenworth; wind to-day south, 5.
June 16.—Wind south, 7; cumulus clouds thick in the north. at

et.
June 17.---Overcast; raining a little occasionally in the morning ;
wind light; clear and. hot n the afternoo n; in the evening cumulus
clouds oecupied the horizon rates north around by west to south, and
at 9 o'clock there were continual flashes of lightning; about 12 0’ “clock
> a most aoe storm of wind, rain, lightning, and thunder came upon
us from the west, and lasted for an hour. oe
June 18. —Clear most of the day Gia warm; at dark pegesiner threat-
ening storm appeared in the west, but did not reach u
June 19. —Very warm.
June 20.—Very warm; at sunset another violent thunder hades
came from the NW.; rained during the nig
June 21.—Clear and cool; wind Ji ght NW.; was able to see the

15th.
e 22.—Clear and cool; thermometer at noon 74°; at midnight

une 23 and 24.—Fai

dune 25. —Near the Eanath of the Vermilion eee wind SW., 7,
during the day ; thermometer at noon 873°, we ulb 7 24; at sunset
dark cumulus clouds came from the sieickhs eee = the time blowing

e from the south; at 9 p.m. Tatbomibter 28; attached thermometer
ike Aiecked 14; raining heavy to ae north, rie a storm passing
: south of us moving to the SE., wind n r 8. The flashes

view of this commotion of the elements pociais us.
June 26,—Clear and nearly calm.

42 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Tune 27. naan south wind all day, and a violent storm again from
the NW. in the n

June 28. salle, rainy, and nearly calm most of the day.

June 29 and 30, and July 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, and 7.—Weather cool,
eg clouded, ‘but no material rain; most of the time north wind.

, 10, and 11.—Wind fresh from the south.

uly 12. —Strong NE. wind, and light,thunder showers from NW. .

Tidy 13.—At the Great Bend violent northwest wind storm, which
blew the water out of the river in spray ; but little rain or thunder.

July 14.—Wind strong south. (? )

' July 15.—Wind light; at 2 p. m., thermometer in the shade 102°;
in the sun 107°; wet bulb 69°, wind slight northwest ; shower towards
' night, “te the rain all evapor ated again before reaching the earth.

6.—Clear and very warm.

The sce observations were made on the steamboat. The observa-
tions on the weather from July 16, to August 9, will be found in the
table with the observations of wet and dry bulb thermometers at Fort

The following notes on the weather soe gh the meteorological
observations from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.

ugust 9,6 a. eho uds 3; 14 p. m.,cumulus 3 ; wind northwest
3; several thunder showers crossed the prairie in “the afternoon, mov-
- ing to wg southeast ; much thunder and rain during the night.

August 10, 64 a. m. —Rain ; ; clouds 9 ; calm, thermometer 664°; wet
bulb dae te 64°; in the forenoon sun shone at intervals ; 12 m z
_ heavy thunder shower to the east, wind at the time web eth 6 ; at #
get ape ; 9 p. m- clouds, raining slightly ; ; wind northw 6 Bs: :

Aug 11. i eae Hs the day clouds varying from 7, 3 to 8; wind
aoe: from 3 to 4, eet slight wheats. 3 of rain ; 5 p. m., ther-
rometer 61° ; ; wet bulb 5

pales T, ia p.1 m. a Waid rte 5 ; -high prairie covered with fog i
mist.
rand 15.—Clouds, 3 to 5; wind northwest, 3; 64 p. m., clear
and ca
August 15, 74 to 10 a. m., wind “since 5; clouds, 10; ponte
rain ; temperature of Rapid river a0; Bb ay, sun shone ; Tp.
ifi., » nimbus clouds, 8; rainy, wind Hovtheweet, 4; temperature 14 p-

m.,
August 16, 53 a. m., clouds ; 9}, low and flying, wind northeast, 5;
7 p.m. , clouds, 1 : in horizon calm ; continued so nearly all night.
August 1%, 54 a. m., slonds, 9; ; clear around the sun, wind north-
wes cleared up as the day advanced ; m. , clouds 2; upper
wind west, lower wind east, 4. e ae

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETO. 43,

August 18, 54a. m., clear, wind east, 4; wind soon changed to the

south, 6; 1 p.m clear ; wind south, 6.
August 49, 4 a. m. : clouds, _5; cirrus, wind south, 4; all day it was
south, 6; 7 p. m., nearly calm

August 20, 54 a. m., clouds, 4; thunder during the morning; rained
a little during the day ; 7 p. m., clouds, 94 nimbus ; wind north, 5.
. August 21, 54 a. m. , clouds, 9: wind northeast, 1 ; Tp ley clear,
wind northeas t,
August 22, 53 a. _m., clear and calm.

OO A a a SN ae ee Ee i ee a ak Se Re Lene
Dey
ibe = p

Observations from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie,

August 25, 6a. m., foggy ; wind southeast ; day clear and warm.
" August 26, 27 and 28, —Cloudy in, the morning ; clear and warm at
noon, and i “ the evening.

St oF a. m., clouds, 10; wind east, 1; day clear and warm.

tare ee Sa em ~ |:

a ust 30, 44 a. m., clouds, 1; wind east, 6: 3 p.m., clouds, 2; |
..° wine’ Biithwost bi
August 31, 6 a.m., calm; clouds, 1, in the horizon to the north ;
= no dew; clouds soon moved south with northeast wind, 5, and covered
. the whole sky; 43 p. m., wind north, 4; clouds, 5; thermometer 81;
fe wet bulb 71°; temperature of the Platte 13.5 1 the night there was
a violent thunder storm, and a heavy fall of rain; a horse was killed
by the lightning.
September 1, 54 a. m., calm; Dates 8; 3} p. m., clouds, 2; cumu-
lus in the horizon : cirrus over ead ; ind southeast £1.
September 2, 6h a. , all mist ae etid: northeast, 1; 6 p. m.,.
cumulus, clouds, 25 wind southeast, 2.

Septembe 7 3.—Cu mulus ; clouds filled the sky nearly all day, and
showers were in several par rts of the horizon with thunder; 9 p. m
commenced raining har

September 4 and 5—Warm. a 6, heavy rain at 5 p. m.

September 7, 8 and 9.—Warm fair.

September 10, 54 a. a Sea eloditi, 5; calm ; aD. m., clouds,
10; cumulus and nimbus; wind nort west,

September 11, 6 a. m., clouds, 10; wind northeast, @

September 12, og &. Mi. +, clouds, 10; wind northeast, 1.

OS She alae Oe
wih eee moe

Observations from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie.

wn goon 13, 54 a. m.—Clouds, 1; cirrus, calm, heavy dew; day
clear and hot i
Septem er 14, 6 a m.—Clouds, 2 in horizon ; calm ee

oe 15, 6 a. m. —Clouds, 3 cirro vate i cali 5 day very oo

5 Micleber 16.—Dense fog in the morn -
ember 19, 8 a, m.—Clouds, 10, ; ietud southeast, 6; raining a
| “es and = so all night.

: 2, 5p. m.—Thermometer 66° ; clouds, 93 ; wind west, 5.

Ad es EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Observations from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre.
_ September 29.—Fair day ; little rain after dark, with high north

wind, 7.

September 30, 6 a. m.—Thermometer 44; no dew, wind northwest, i

October 1 ana ooctel, 4355 ; day clouded.

October 2.—Thermometer at sunrise 32°.

October 3.—The bag was quite warm, 4 inches snow fell i in the night
at the head of White river.

October 4.—Thermometer at sunrise, 29° ; snow melted during the
day, the ground being quite warm. '

« October 5.—Thermometer at sunrise, 23°; wind northwest 5, during

the day.
October 6. Rid thermometer 29°; day fine.
October 7, 8, and 9.—Weather fine

October 10. ~neaaibtiadtee at sunrise, 54°,
October 11.—Thermometer at sunrise, 28°.
October 12, 13, and 14.—Fine cool weather
| —Thermometer at sunrise, "36° : coal all day.
October 16.—Fair.
October 17.—Very w
October 18.—-High orth wind all day.

October 19.—Very fine day.

October 20.—At Fort Pierre ; commenced raining at daybreak ;
changed to driving sleet and snow, with strong northeast wind ; men
and animals suffered seve erely. _
- October 21.—Storm of sleet continued, with occasional pauses; the ; :
wind changed to nearly every point of the compass ; everything covered
with ice.

October 22.—Weather somewhat clear ; thermometer about 23°.

October 24.—Clear, wind south, 6

October 25.—Clear and cold, wind northwest, 6.

October 26,— Wind northwest, 4

* ool

Observations from Fort Pierre to Sioux City. -
{
October 27.—Thermometer at sunrise ot day clear; wind north, 4
October 28.—Thermometer at sunrise
October 29. pr pemnaes at sunrise ‘31°: ; wind south, very “ey
' a short time in the mo

October unrise, io etincnickad 26°.
October 31. —Sunrise, erg ce it 26°,
November 1 and 2.—Fair days.
November 3.—Thermometer at — 19°; day fine
__ November 4, Thermometer “at sunrise 39° ; misty ; clouds covered —
ithe sky and betokened a storm; sianns in the Giertiogn and night, _

~ November 5. coKt ‘Turkey aeek: thereon ‘at sunrise 43°, ‘
; ing aad clouds rising in ri east; ; heavy fog anks in the ncvthwele se
strong gfe wind succe at 8a m., enveloping us in fog, and
ng storm uf sleet and snow, which it was almos'

a bitter drivi
imy cible to face ; aéntintee till
mber 6.—Thermometer at sunrise 29°; day clear.
iT herniométer at sunrise 28° ; ; day clear.

8.—T Se at | sunrise 29° : day clear. i

‘ovember 8 h
Roveber 9 and 10.—Fin

City tn, >» Kane esville
veer ee

hy aaew

ed all ha

wember 12. oth nor est ne with snow als. aid
November 13.—Fine day.
November 14, acticndes ; commenced raining about dark, and rained,

-alln

acinar i —Misty rain all day.
vember 16.—Cool and clondyes ; Snow fell. in 1 the night “about 5
iddhee 4 in ay Towa. 7 ; 3 :

oe we lena sn siiete +
‘og

3
ee

Route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.—Altitudes and distances.

Station, |

‘TABLE I.

EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

TR RRR ARSE SESSOCHMMPAMRMR RARER RRR me OH

] aor er ee ' “
| | | Ba | he) 2s ees
| | 35 Peg p> Spe ag
Place of observation. sh | t S a se a8
es hae | Seto g. 3 3 | eS] gm
a } EI 2S oe a ee ewe | = = Bee
A: a Bf Sl) a eee A.
ug.8 | 9} ~ — =— Missouri river). 28 ee | 62. |
De dais is BO bedi seen och. 28.420 | 28.483 | 58.57 1477.5] 48 |........
9/13 p.m. | Ata small water hole........... 27.656 | 27.660 92. 2325.0 | 22.75
9 | 92 p.m. | Medicine creek pre: SIE pres 7. op
10 | 6 a.m. |... DOr eifeseNy dot ie cians 27.685 27.703 | 664.67 | 2220. | 6
10/9 p.m. | White river 25.002 iin ies 69.
Tt fSh aon} Ors SO ee Ts a i a
11 | 13 p.m. do ue eae POE irae sees 76.
TL 6 5 pit. eo 0 ee Deva Cee neh BE as AL pee
AL | Gp) Pe ms | os Seve g aree cong ernihs chen eke DANS Gatien BR ame
TET p. s 98 439 | Pees hee 53. .
12 | 84 a.m. |e... -sepeet| SRAM boost cin] Wie fesee ee
12 6i a.m : .do - gia i : .ee,| 28.440 56. Os Hi ee exe vein
12| 6.40 ewsealo Sera oeels ss. 5. |) RRASI T B8e 56.59 | 1580. | 1
12/7 am. Bluffs of White river. 28.247 | 28.996 | 593.592 | 1680. |..., Re
12 9h a.m hon acne of iebsrsice: 28.008 | 27.969 | 56.56 1944, 4 59.25 «
122/12 pm 28.106 | 23.129 | 70.70 | 1900. | 9
a2 | 8 p.m. onda Seite 28.123 | 2s ch sath | 61, exits alah
18 | 52 a.m. | do Se ST 28.101 | 25.245 | 61.61 | 1760. | 4
18 | S$} a.m. On a high prairie...............| 27.895 | 27. 633.633 | 2100. | 12
18 | 11ga.m. | On Dog's Bars creek........ ..-. PEGs gi trees U6 a
aR) 18hp.m. | 5 icc secs 27.709 27.701 | 73.72 | 2280. | OE
18 | 2 p.m. | On sand ridge (divide),........ 27.555 | 27.585 | 80.80 || 2870. | 8
.18)7 p BM siver io. cacss. 27.890 a) oe
" 14] 6. am. |... 40. 27.895 | 27.905 | 65.66) | 1995. | 6
446 | 68 pi] Rapid river. .i, cute obi Jueaokal MEG fly Sag ASE Se Be eee
EE TAR ORNS Cis eeUOk Sees telenc'y ar coud +ee-| 27,875 | 27.818 | 69.74. | 2115. | 243"
15 | 8b a.m id ri cecee’ | SF.006 | QT. 672 PT0.70” | 9986. 4.2..
15 | 7 p.m.) Camp on high prairi PT: 480F Ago) aay
$61.65. & Behe QT 667 ‘o7 567 | 51.53 |
1617 p.m. | sana it (les Dates de Sab). det Ae diets a oe ee
17 | bb a.n:.| | 27.509 | 27.558 | 51.54 9890. | orp |
Hl had cdl Sete eerre sy. ae Je. Papert
Fan Solis a EL One are ee 31-00 | £7.00 58.61 | 2355,
18;7 pm. eee ee sate, PO AD ae eo 3 eae Bees
10) at om. | | ar.aot | 97.455 | 59.¢5 | abt0. | 96
19) T pm Modoy erie ee es de gees
= SO TSE & tie 1.5 eek etek ects veces 97.508 | 97.587 | ns Tl © |: 9892.9 | 262
a) j gh. | 97.825 Jase. se. ;
+ 91) 8 do do.. 27.936 | 206 | ak | 9080. | 19.
ay small creek i isd OS ‘ot.
22 do : at 27.859 | 443.58 | 2050. | 17
Pate rivets. ccterecs cos ceseccchersc sc loos. seis cbse) DUID. | 20
Fort Kearny c ...| 2000. 114
{ |

TABLE if:

"Fort Kearny to Fort Loran

Place of observation,

Height of barom-
eter 82° Fah,
Air, temperature.

Altitude in feet.
Intermediate dis-
tance.
Distance from Ft

_ Kearny. -

re
F Fort Kearny, on Platte river

tees tesa

97.188 62.74 3h
| 97.047 | 67.67.
es ee
26. 814 | 643.74

do

ee es

Pee evessces

do.

do

See e we eee

ee ee a eer a | 26.780
North ork Matesiver (Ash Hallow)

er te
. sae SOB Fees taco. Sete tbe eee

ps tO. howe esse woes

-+++| 26,402 | 26.807
sesesesessee! 26,202 | 26.202
vene@OLeese + oesd0, seecrons tees! 96,080 | 96.088
Oe ee

Oe eyes veeee Oy vececcecwses| Be Cle | 25.683

—These altitudes were calculated directly from these observations, and some of
modified for non-periodi> variation by comparison with the barometric observations
by = aust States tc! ——- at Forts Leavenworth, Snelling, and Kearny.
station 3, to which add 80 feet for station 5, from
hich | “eulptract 50 Suet: For station 7 subtract 50 feet; station 11 subtract 65 feet; sta-—
12 subtract 65 feet; stations 13 and 14, add 150 feet; station 15 add 30 feet, and you
re the results, give it in the column of altitudes.

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TABLE V.

Elastic force of vapor in inches.

7a.m.| 2p.m.| 9p.m./| Mean.

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62 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

TABLE VII.

Reduced barometric readings, from which the altitude of Fort Pierre is computed.

Barometer No. 1014.

1855.
July
3
August
ao i
3
‘ :
4 | Mean... :
Corresponding mean air temperature 77°
TABLE IX.
: Daily curve of pressure and the corrections to be applied to the readings at the several hours.
: 5 a.m 28.485 1.000
g 6 a.m -495 +.005
: be m -505 +.019
' 8 a.m e515 -029
a 9am 525 -039
: 10 a.m -540 .054
| 2 bts m -b5D° | 044
2m -500 | | -014
2 . om A488 | + .002
3 p.m =~
4p. m
5 p.m
6 p.m
7Tp.m
&8p.m
9 p.m
10 p.m

3 ia at re a es 3 . rer
eR GUAR RRR TSO pe errs — saeant: Stes ee Maen SAT

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.

APPENDIX E.

~ Gronogicar NOTE ON SECTION IN RAVINE OF L’HAv Qui Court RIVER, BY
AKE.

LA i saa Notrs, &¢., oN Nepraska, sy Dr.
wey: Havpey

_ Observations on the Geological specimens collected by Lieutenant G. K.
arren from the bluffs of a ravine in the Mauvaises Terres, By
William P. Bl ake.

| Masatnaze, D. C., March 15, 1956.

rva judge will present ery nearly the nature of the strata
for a wide area in that region. Until this time we have been without
uite of specimens from these strat, and without any very definite
knowledge of their mineral characters.
m these specimens and your explanations 1 I have constructed the
s iittiexed sectional view of the face of the bluff:

g—Loose sand; sand hills 50 to 00 feet high.

. oe
J--3 to 5 feet hard caleareous sandstone. z

--—------ e—15 feet of sand.

*

d—3 inches of clay and shells.

-.-- - €—15 feet of sand.

#

- b—10 feet thin strata of clay, interstratified with sand.

oe

- a—15 feet friable sandstone, (caleareous.)

ee eae

ahickenene-t thus des satel is about sixty feet, an consists,
seen, of ~_ colored friable sa ndstones ; ‘sand looely CO

64 _ EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

and of marly clays. No coarse sandstones or beds of conglomerate are
presented ; and the series would thus appear to have been deposited in

comparatively quiet water without violent currents. 1 now present a_ 2

brief description of the specimens collected from the strata as they
succeed each other upwards from the base of the bluff.

a. From the base, a thickness of 15 feet exposed to view.

This specimen is partly in powder and is very friable. Its color is
white, and when examined with a microscope is seen to consist princi-
pally of grains of white and translucent or transparent quartz, very
much rounded and worn, as if by long attrition. They are surrounded
and cemented together by an opaque white mass which shows fibrous
crystalizations and resembles a soluble salt which has effloresced by
exposure to the air. This, however, is not removed by boiling water,
but dissolves rapidly in clorhydric acid with effervescence, and the

solution gives a white precipitate with carbonate of ammonia. ee

white substance, therefore, is ge. of lime.
b.. 2. Specimen’ from the bottom.

.ccording to the label it forms thin strata only a
nating with layers of sand, forming a combined
n feet. hen treated with acid it effervesces,

The
of alumin

c. 3. Stratum from bottom.
oose sand; no specimen obtained; thickness about 15 feet.

d. 4. Stratum from base.

This is an ash colored powder, consisting in great part of clay;

silicious grains are also present, and are coarser than those seen int
specimen from b. The lable with this states that the larger is of very y
variable thickness, and so soft that it was not possible to obtain a

coherent lump. I have represented it in the section as three inches in —

thickness, which you inform me is its proba

ecimen has a hi ht ash color, and consists, in great part, ne

: deta op
nd in this powder several minute but beautiful shells and frag-

The shells prove on inspection to belong to —
he

The first is a land shell, and t

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 65

species, but there has not been sufficient time to make the aes
comparisons. Dr. oa Girard, to whom I have exhibited them

coincides with me the opinion that they are new, and we propose
for them aiovoGATy the names Helix socialis, and Planerbis antiqua.

5. Stratum from bottom.
Land 10 to 15 feet thick; not represented in the collection.
f. 6. Stratum from bottom.

_ This specimen is a compact white or grayish-white ee ia
stone. The silicious grains are very uniform in size; quite small and

po Stag to some lang from the Llavio ie pot brouayt in oy
t

weather. You inforra i me that this is the case, see that its thickness
is about five feet,

Aes ee layer, of apne.

e from your description that ‘dees BPS layer of sand, which
caries. fain 50 to 100 feet in thickness, is an ai ccumulation of drift
sand or dunes, which was not — down under sat in the position
which it now occupies. The rounded sloping surface which it presents
towards the edge of the bluff, te its loose condition, and is additional
ee 5 o drifted character. Undera glass, the sa ape apatites the

sand hills on the Llano Esta
The specimens from this eine oF the. bluff are ee by. two
; the ridge 1 ee the vicin-

=
i
pork
a
ae

Places a ars in “se ers or seams, as if it had been. ;
an es naan seme the eal” ‘ to ‘analy

66 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

differs from that already described only in containing a little dusk, and —
a very little organic matter—particles of the roots and grasses—which

It is wonderful that even the seat v vegetation you describe should 2 a

exist on such a barren foundation
Respectfully and truly, yours,

BLAK
eeagiet of the office of ihe Tiited States
Pacific Ltailr oad Laplorations and Surveys.
Lieut. G. K. Warren
United States Topographical Engineers.

Wasutneton, D. C.,
“March 15, 1856.
Sir: I herewith present a brief f sketch of the ponte and payee
al features of the re egion of the e upper Missouri, with some noten On, on its
soil, vegetation, ean life; &c. <7

vege ai is ; ee: Beet
Very cnmieanes vg yu pieretiens servant, eis
Lieut. G. K. W. “

5g HAYDEN.
United. States ee, Engineers.

—- hy offent of country drained by the great hy croanbicn!
of the Missouri, may be characterized as one principal syst

of aise the Missouri river and its larger tributaries as isbn:

The Missouri river or principal. system rises in the main chain of the

Rocky mountains, RUDGE, east or ‘slightly northeast course to the

confluence ¢ ite h river. pear the 49th parallel, the —_

northern point te iver: ; then changing its course it flows in a ,
southeasterly direction to its confluence with the Mississippi, in mee
tude 38° 50’ 50”. Its topography is quite well understood ag far as
Fort Benton, and in the vicinity of the mountain passes, but of its
sources very little as yet is definitely known

1en come the principal tributaries of the Missouri river, whit ich T
have called sub-systems, or subsidiary hydrographical . por- ©

at in ascending the Missouri, we have—
i. The sub-system, of the Platte river, an important arte draining
an immense area, which also rises in ‘the main chain of the Rocky
pare Ae Leto in latitude 41° + 24”.
stem of t u qui Court, or Running zag which
its rise in the eastern portion of the Black Hills, drains an area
‘y about three bu dred miles i in anette and per in breadth,
18 Meeperiee ata eous and | a iapeaations . This has.

White nr, hick al iin th er

tion of which I will mention as illustrative of this paper. Commenc- {

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 67

portion of the Black Hills, and flows through the remarkable mam-

malian cemetery or tertiary basin, draining an area of two hundred

and fifty miles in length and fifty in breadth, Sraptiss into the Missouri
in latitude 43° 41’. It has been partially explor
s e Teton, or Bad river of the Sioux, an inferior sub-system,
rises in the eastern portion of the Bad Lands, drains an area of one hun-
dred miles in length and thirty in breadth, flows through the sterile
clays of the cretaceous formation, and empties into the Missouri four
miles below Fort Pierre, near latitude 44°. 23’ 28".

5. The sub-system of the Shyenne, a river 0 it considerable size, takes

; ome through the northern portion of the same spur and empties —
into the Missouri near latitude 444°. This river drains an area of
about three hundred and fifty miles in length and sixty to eighty in
breadth, and flows for the most part through the sterile clays of the
cretaceous formation. It has been partially PE

6. Passing over the Moreau, Grand, an nd Cannon Ball rivers, which
take their rise in the prairie near the eastern adie of the Black Hills, -
and are less important streams, we come to the sub-systems of the
Little Missouri, which rises in the eastern portion of the Black Hills,
flows through the great Lignite Tertiary basin, draining an area 0
about two hundred and fifty miles in length and fifty in breadth, and
apie into the Missouri near latitude 474°. As jet it is very little

ae latitude 48°, the Missouri bifurcates the right fork or Yellow-
stone, draining an immense region, to the south and west, of which very ,
little is known ; and the left fork of the Missouri, oa Og the country
further west and north near the base of the moun ains. The left fork
of the Missouri contains a less volume of water = has a far less rapid
current than the Yellowstone.

On the left side I will only mention the two yubsayatelns of the
James and Big Sioux rivers, which have been quite thoroughly ex-
death by Nicollet and others, and drain a much more fertile aon
than those before mentioned.

The above gives a brief pale ae outline of the basin drained
by the Missouri system of w

Geologically the Missouri >a ir from the mouth of the Platte to

he Rocky mountains, may be characterized by three principal divisions,
represeneing three geological safer

1. The Carboniferous system, the upper members of which are very
well dercione at the mouth of the Platte, and extend to a point about
thirty miles above Bellevue, Nebraska. Here the limestone strata
dip beneath the bed of the river and are succeeded by a bed of yellow-
ish sandstone, the exact age of which is not known, but probably

m.
em, which is positively known to exist at the
basis Pan eon

ce tot — mon

68 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

tends over an area of two hundred and fifty miles in length and fifty
to sixty in breadth.

2. The great Lignite basin, commencing on the Missouri river near
the mouth of Cannon Ball river, and reaching to the mouth of Muscle-
shell river, a distance of nearly eight hundred miles ina straight
line, extends up the Yellowstone six or seven hundred miles ; ite
limits in that direction not known. In the summer of 1854, I traced
it to the mouth of the Big Horn river, and obtained through the
Crow Indians undoubted Tertiary fossils from a point two hundred
miles further up the river, Its. boundaries haye not yet been deter-
mined, but may be estimated to cover an area, with very little inter-
ruption, of from four to six thousand square miles.

3. The ‘‘Bad Lands of the Judith,’’ which seems to be a dis-
tinct. basin, probably an estuary deposite, the exact age of which is
not determined, covers an area of about 40 miles in length, and 10 to
20 in breadth. The details of the geology of these systems I have
reserved for a succeeding report, wit

e whole region watered by the Missouri also presents many z00-
logical and botanical characteristics which are peculiar, and even in
its ancient fauna and flora, it exhibits forms and types found in no
other geological district. “ag

‘is: uri to the confluence of the Platte, the

timber along the river i overy abundant and luxuriant, and the up-
ot :

by the annual decay of the enormous growth

_ The forest ees from Council Bluffs to Dorion’s Hills, consist mostl
of cottonwood, black walnut, butternut, ash, ‘American and red sla

i RUM eee eS Sea ae ee,
ee oe Dh Rae Mee

Pe ESSE ie Sea oan Oe ont,

ij

Kinnie kinnic, (Cornus i es) several species of Salix, one of “>

‘Tare, pric

t
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 69

soft maple, several species of oak, coffee bean, hackberry, basswood,
Sree &c. The principal under shrubs are cherry, prickly ash,
uma vc. The cottonwood is found everywhere on the bottoms,
and atteit covers the island to the exclusion of other trees. At Floyd’s
Bluff the well known and useful bullberry shrub first makes it appear- ,
ance, and continues from thence to the sources of the Missouri. About
thirty miles: above Council Blufis the last Sycamore | Platanus Occk
dentalis] is seen in ascending the river, and from its size marks con-
spicuously the limits of its growth

Extending along the river, through the States of Missouri and
Iowa, is a prominent series of hills, to which Professor Swallow of

Rie Missouri, has applied the geological term of the ‘‘ Bluff fo rmation?

They are composed of a yellow siliceous marl of considerable fertility,
and their deposition is comparatively recent, and is indicated by the
fact that numerous land and fresh water shells are found in them, spe-
cifically identical with those existing in the same region at the present
time. These hills are by far the most finely developed on the left side
of the Missouri between Council Bluffs and Floyd’s Bluff, and seem
to enclose the vast bottom prairie as with a gigantic wall. Many of
the hills rise to'a height of 150 to 200 feet, and so steep are their sides
that vegetation can scarcely sustain itself. An excellent farmer on
the Little Sioux has commenced the culture of the vine amon
hills, and is confident of success. This formation open Ow the
Big Sioux, though not so prominent to the mouth of Running Water,
where it eradually dies out, though traces of it are seen throughout
the Upper Missouri country, and may be distinguished gyn by a4
wear a richer growth of vegetation.
mouth of the Big Sioux is an extensive tract of fine tithber,

and rate anxious eyes are fixed on it ready to seize it, as soon as the
Indian claim is extinguished. There are many islands in the river of
considerable extent, which must eventually be of much interest to the

settlers. They are e usually covered. with a dense growth of cotton-
wood, which, in the absence of other —— of timber, will be of ton

thaple, and so 6 indes shr aay ‘and

find along the ane and skirting yh Bites Aaltbiicien ie,

ash, bo x-elder, occasionally a few oaks, and the cottonwood i is seldom
absent in the bottoms. In man laces the red cedar is seen, and in
the vicinity of the mountains the i hathets roe are covered with pines.
Along the streams a few shrubs appear, as Cornus Sericea,

willow, the inner bark of which is much used a the Sioux for their

grows to a large size, sometimes two feet in diameter ; mully

oe oer ash, &e. rs uo ee
3 ‘Dorion’ ills, tS called froma Canadian who fo y : ig

70 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Brulés”’ by the Canadian voyageurs. These hills are
covered with fragments of selenitic crystals, or gypsum, which glisten

s rays like gems, and from this fact are sometimes called
the ‘‘ Shining Hills.’’ Above the mouth of the Cannon Ball river,
the sands and elays of the Tertiary system commence, and the general
a of the country is much improved; the upland is covered
with a fine «

About fifty miles be e
favorite wooding place for steamboats in their ascent of the river.
This island is one of three which are destined to be of much interest
to the settlers along the Missouri. They have an area of several

the largest trees are not more than two feet in diameter. e
quantity of fine timber might be selected from these islands with ai
vantage to the remainder. They are also the resort of myriads of
birds and larger animals, which gather to these places to rear their
young undisturbed. —
e country in the vicinity of Fort Pierre, and north towards the
Black Hills, though mostly sterile or entirely barren, contains some
plateaus that are covered with a fine growth of grass. The region

fr ren black hills, sometimes producing a few
stunted cedars, meet the eye on every side. Between the two forks of
the Shyenne, and in the vicinity of Bear Butte, a portion Black
_ Hills, is quitea large area, which seems to have bee

some time previously seen nothing but the sterile country fakes

an F ebundines of fis a nd swarms of beaver live ee their banks.
They are skirted with excellent timber of ash, oak, elm, and box- elder,
and the level plains are covered with a fine carp et of grass which, in
spring and early summer, is enamelled with my rind of flowers of the
richest hues. On the 9th of March, 1855, I ascended Bear Butte, and
on the south side, six hundred feet cheine: the level prairie, | found a
beautiful ry erin ees just putting forth its blossom. The
Indians call it the navel flower, for they say that when it blooms
young spring is ee = At that time the grass was springing up quite
green, and herds of antelopes were quietly reposing upon the sunny
sides of streams, like flocks of sheep. This is a portion of the —_
similar to White river valley, well adapted for grazing purposes, and
capable of sustaining a tolerably dense population. The Biath, Hills
which astm in the distance, and derive their name from their dark
appearance, contain an inexhaustible quantity of the
finest ier, mostly pine, which will doubtless remain undisturbed
for many ye ars to come. I will, however, propose a plan for obtaining
this timber, and render it useful to future settlers, though I do it with
some hesitation, lest it may seem visionary. The left fork of the
Shyenne passes through the northern portion of the Black Hills, and
even there is a considerable stream, from thirty to fifty yards wide.
In the spring the river is much swollen, and the current exceedingly
rapid, and the timber, if cut and hauled to the banks of the river, might
be floated down into the Missouri with considerable safety and ease.

resources are concerned. In the bottoms, however, the traders and
Indians raise very good vegetables. At Fort Union the traders have
met with very good success some seasons, but usually noe or early
frosts destroy their labors. Three tribes of Indians on the Missouri
are somewhat of an agricultural people. The Minssthante at Fort
Berthold raised, in 18 854, t wo thousand bushels of corn and beans,
pumpkins in proportion. The Mandans, sixty miles below, one thou-
sand five hundred bushels, and the Aricarees, at Fort Clark, four thou-
sand bushels. The drought and early frost ‘of 1855 nearly destroyed
their crops, which, in the month of June, looked quite promising.
At Fort Pierre, also, the river bottoms and islands are cultivated with
some success, perhaps as much so as many of our Atlantic States.

cemetery. ‘The weather was bsieseesd and sun shining sR Most
of the 1 usual spring’ birds er courses

72 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

stream is fed by springs, contains an abundance of fish

a

merous dry trees along the river. After

or animals,

in want of. or |
bottoms is

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 73

very fertile, composed of the calcareous and aluminous marls of the
Tertiary basin through which the upper portion of this river flows, and
the clays of the Cretaceous system which forms the hills, and is the
basis formation eee sea the valle
The following day, May 11, we passed up the valley four or five
miles above the “forks, for the pur pose of fording the river. The left
fork is the main stream, and, at this time was much swollen and the
current quite rapid, The bottom is so full of quicksands and. other
impediments that we found it very difficult to discover a crossing place.
Finally, after a most diligent search of — hours wading about in
_ the stream, we ventured to make the attempt. We first unloaded
everything i in our carts and carried it to the opposite side, a distance
of one hundred and fifty yards, and then letting our carts down the
steep bank with great care, we passed safely over on the other side
with no other trouble than the miring of our horses in se or two
| instances. After landing safely on the other side, we ascen e
high hills which border the river, and camped in a "penetiinbon ravine,
: which flowed a fine spring, surrounded with an abundance of
wood, The whole country here has much the appearance of the lime-
stone region near the mouth of the Platte, and I noticed several
species of shrubs that are found no higher up on the Missouri than
Council Bluffs. Our distance that day was not more than eight miles.
The water of White river is very peculiar, oe a large quan-
tity of sassy and aluminous matter held in suspension, so that it
has much the appearance of milk. When “allOeed to stand for a
short time, or ihibiiovér it is found in pools, a thick scum may bes
— the surface very much of the appearance and —— of rich
m,; removing aera and the thinner portion is ok lighte r

bull boats for over one hundred miles from its mouth. We > fo und
plenty of antelopes near our camping place. Our Indian killed two
fine ones, which formed a most acceptable addition to our larder.

n the following day we passed over a fine rolling upland prairie
on the northern slope of the dividing ridge between White river and
Running Water. After descending “two steep hills which border the
river bottoms, pee — slopes gently towards the south for a dis-
cance of fifteen o ——- nies _— a —_ ridge which is visible in the

dist ance an 4 pene prmaie ith p nOur ur course W se nbout pe weet.

2?

* They posed Pai sppropratly na
may things of the deepest interes this valley, nea as pao: it is
a terra incognita. All Somat on the right side of —

tiver flow from perpetual springs in the distant ridge, and even in

74 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

May 13.—We again travelled due west across a fine rolling prairie.
We met with large numbers of a peculiar species of cactus just coming
into bloom, (Mammaria nuttalii.) It is more abundant here than any-
where else on the Upper Missouri. We camped at night on Grass
creek—another fine stream, similar to those before mentioned. At our
left, in the distance, we could see a tall, naked white butte, called
Eagle Nest butte, from the fact that an eagle has built her nest on the
summit from time immemorial. Although it rises to the height of
one hundred and fifty feet, with nearly perpendicular sides, its strati-
fication is perfectly horizontal, presenting a more conspicuous example
of the terrible denuding action which has been felt in the valley.
its summit I found several species of plants in bloom that I observed
no where else on the route.

Me

portions of Kansas. We camped at night on a fine stream called
‘The creek where the Indians plant corn.’? Our Indian guide spent
a day here planting a small patch of corn and pot

as far as we could see, was fine rolling prairie clothed with vegetation,
while on our ri 1 of ‘« Bad
Lands’’ loom up, assuming

Indian guide led us along an old buffalo track, a very rugged road, a

always follow a buffalo trail, for this animal always selects the most

practicable route mouth of this creek is the most
beautiful exhibition ve ever seens « eat:

_On the 18th we camped near a fine spring, which was but a little
distance from it, ed to stop a day or two and explore it.
Our animals needed rest, and of good grass
and water. lope meat, I

arted out, ¢ panied by reat te and ascending an elevation
which was above the bad ground, looked down upon one of the grand-
est views Lever beheld. The denuded area was nearly square in form,
and the immense flat concretions that projected out from the sides ot

the per pend

_ above each other, resembled some vast theatre; indeed, it reminded

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 75

me of what I had imagined of the amphitheatre of Rome, only nature
works upon a far grander scale than man. We climbed with great
difficulty down the steep sides, following the main channel of the little
stream, and after much winding through this labyrinthian ——!
we came to an open plateau covered with fine grass, and in the centre
a beautiful grove of cedars, and through the whole a nae of milky
water wound its way to White river, about five miles distant. All
r

conical pyramid standing alone. We felt very much as though we
were in a sepulchre, and, indeed, we were in a cemetery of a pre-
____ Adamite age, for all around us at the base of these walls and pyramids
-. were heads and tails, and fragments of the same, of he of which are
not known to exist at the present da e spent that day and the
following exploring the cemetery, which the jcatiAins power of water
had laid open for our inspection, and many fine specimens rewarded
our labors

nthe morning of the 21st, we started for White sas on which
we cam mped. We were about to leave behind us good grass and water,
for in the direction we were going we could expect nothing but a
desert and salt water. The bottoms were, as usual, quite good, but
the hills that bordered it were terribly denuded, showing us that we
were still in ‘Bad Lands.’’ The following morning we crossed the

kind
casionally a big horn was added, which made a very Mrs "sala
The meat of the female has much the flavor of m On the fol-
_— pac we camped on a tributary of White. eee. eabataries

next day we were Hecletine of getting to Beat etek, te cmd “camp-
: ing aa of Visitors to the Bad Lands. — road was exceedingly
- tugged, winding among the terrible canons nd gullies. — We =
poe ae et through without again catpesiti ng our carts, and were
_ obliged | g pack Ror st aga erable eae Atlast we strack
she main road between Tort ae and Fort Laramie, @ and then our

HE
Eee
&
=
g
>
a
8
i
S

we
tH
e
5
Be
ne
BEE:
zg

exploring a large area of mosti
tetanic =o but by Indians. The lo

76 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

the large and valuable collections which have already been ag to
the States by Mr. A. Culbertson, Captain Van Vliet; Dr. Evans, and

others, and furnished the wiaherial for the magnificent wot of Profes- a
sor Leidy, ‘‘The Ancient Fauna of Nebraska, ’? published by the —

Smithsonian Institution. We spent five days at this locality, and
with the mammalian remains <i collected in other places, our
carts were loaded to their utmost. I noticed one peculiarity in peers

dition. In passing out of the Bad Lands our carts were much im- _

peded by the mud, but when we ascended upon the plateau above, the
storms ceased, and thirty miles east of that point we could see no indi-
cations of its having rained for several weeks. From Bear creek we

ade an ascent of two hundred feet to a broad plateau, extending,
. with little interruption, to the head of Teton river, a distance of about
fifty miles. The formation upon which this plateau rests is a ane

affords a fine pasture cian for numerous iii of ante
On the night of the 30th, we camped at Sage creek, so ae among
voyageurs and travellers, for the Purgaly qualities ‘of its water. I
stopped here several days i in the summer of 1853, with my friend, F.
B. Meek, esquire, and both ourselves aad horses experienced its weak-
ening effect. This creek rises in the Bad Lands, and taking a north-
east course, empties into the Shyenne. It is somewhat noted for the
abundance of fine Cretaceous fossils that are found along its banks.
For about four miles east of Sage creek the road is very rugged, until
we again ascend to the table land. Twelve miles distant is Bull cree ek,
also a tributary of the Shyenne, and takes its rise in the Bad Lands.
e dividing ridge egress the Shyenne and White rivers, forms

the goat elevaiad porti of the Bad Pan Fifteen miles east of
Bul eek inon’s fain, a noted camping place pomong voya-
me ‘ies one of the very few good springs of water on the road
gous a t Pierre and Fort Laramie. — It is the head of the Teton

nd is o called in the Sioux language. It runs in an. opposite

direction | to the creek before mentioned, for about four miles, then
passing through the eastern portion of the Bad Lands, eae the
Teton, takes a due east course, and empties into the Missouri four
below Fort Pierre. Near this spring is an elevated i BO com: of
white aluminous and calcareous marl, containing slabs and Ba
fully charged with fossil shells of the genera Lymnea, Planorbis, Physa

nae. &e., also seeds of Chara and fish remains, oak of the shells

ve alread: Besy described by Drs. Evans and Shum ard. It isa
curious fact, that though these shells are of extinct species, living
shells of the same genera, and plants of living Chara, are now existing

ied tr runs at the base of the ridge. The remainder of
u Dae 27 pr heads of the other as of the same
ih very Tittle wood and poor water, and at this time the —
yy was so parched that very chic ae a: rass could be sbikined for
animals. On June 6 we arrive ort Pierre pay having |

ty days.

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 17

Respecting the climate and eae eo irthaa of plants,

much might be said in this connexion. nere is in this country a
wet and a dry season, The wet season usually commences about the
middle of March, and continues until the middle of May. The rains

during this time are frequent and severe. It has been ces to rain
thirty days in succession. The dry season commences about the ba

dle of Ju ly, and usually Sentinal through the autumn, and so

times a portion of the winter. Perhaps s three-fourths of the = a of
the country are in blossom during the mouths of May and June, or
the first half of July. During the month of September the ground
comes parched by drought, and very little vegetation clothes the
prairies, ja everything has the aspect of desolation. ery few flowers
are in , except now and then a composite plant. The principal
portion of, the flora of the upper Missouri belongs to the great fami-
lies of Crucifere, Leguminose, Composite, “ Chenopodiacece, and
Graminee. Of Cryptogamic plants there is a great dearth. I found
but two species of Ferns above Council Bluffs; very few Mosses, Lichens
and Fungi. Throughout the limestone region of the State of Missouri,
we have the sugar maple { Acer Sacharinum] i in great abundance, also
many species of oaks and hickory. These cease A latitude 423°. At
the mouth of Big Sioux we find Fraxinus Americana, Fraxinus quad-
rangulata, Tilia, Americana, quite abun dunt. Gymnocladus Cana-
densis, sixty feet in height. Populus Cap dene:®, the most abundant
tree in upper Missouri. Ulmus fulva, common, associated with Jug-
lans nigra, Juglans cinerea, Celtis oviclend ii Gleditschia tricanthos,
Acer rubrum, from which the Indians formerly made sugar on the Big
Sioux and Vermilion rivers, two or three species of 0: c. Among
the under shrubs may be Pneitianed the bullberry, She herdia argentea,
which commences its growth at this point. Spe ap the borders

Geter of species. At the mouth of Running Water, latitude ite 30,
any of these trees and abiuhe cease, and we have from A. ae
mountains very few forest hee the mh me agent mus

mences in the Tertiary beds, near Fort Clark, and often covers the
arid hi hills in that formation as with a carpet. I saw it in one locality
in White river valley, on the top of Eagle Nest butte. On the high
mes es of the Running Water, White river, Black Hills, on the Yellow-
stone, and on the Missouri, above Fort Union, a species of pine is
quite abundant—Pinus brachyptera. In the Bad Lands of ee ‘udith,
- a second eae of that family occurs, and it is the only locality where
- [have seen it—Abi i ae, ice About fifty miles below Fort Pierre,
&. ‘remarkable saline Be ad t makes its appears! tig A
t discovered by Sepaiibe Maximilian, in

country i in 1832. It elon to the family Ch

78 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN

Fort Union, near the Muscle-shell, it covers the bottoms, to the exclu-

sometimes two or three inches in diameter. I observed the Lleagnus
Argentea in but one locality, on the high hills above Fort Clark.
the edible roots we find the most important one to be Psoralea esculenta, —

Lana)

The lower tribes of the Sioux, who have but little game, subsist
almost entirely on it for several months of the year. It is eaten raw

i 5
sandy borders of streams, and is procured during February and March.

any of the others before mentioned, but one which is oftentimes o:
much importance to the hungry voyageur or Indian is the rosebud, as.
it is called, that is the fruit of a species of Rosa that remains on the

THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 79

& _ In 1850, buffalo were seen as low down on the Missouri as Vermil-
ion river, and in , a few were mart near Fort Pierre, but at the
present time none, un nless it be a str y bull, are seen below Fort Clark.

Even at the base of the Black Hills it would be difficult for a party of
___white men to support themselves by hunting. Probably at this time

. game, such as buffalo, antelope, elk, big horn and beaver, are more
__ abundant in the Yellowstone valley than in any other portion of aa
__ upper Missouri. In descending the Yellowstone river in 1854 fo

distance of 350 miles, I “ not think there was a moment in which I
could not see game in great numbers. In the vicinity of Floyd’s bluff,
and from thence to Running Water, the red deer (Cervus Virginianus)
is quite abundant, and the Santees from the Mississippi, and the Yank-
_____ tons, who spend the summer near Fort Pierre, resort here during the
fall and winter to hunt them. A few elk are see n, but not abundant.
_ Wild turkeys are very abundant in this region, but usually keep near
the boundaries of civilization. A few have been seen at the mouth of
White river and in the rt bees the vicinity of the frontier myriads

possibly as high up the Missouri as Dorion’s hill. Here another closely
allied species, “Tetrao phasianellus, takes the place of the Tetrao cupido,
and is quite abundant from thence to the mountains. The quail { Or-
tyx Virginiana] has not been seen above the mouth of Running Water.

he most northern limit of the Sciurus magnicandatus, or fox

killed one on the shore of the river, forty miles above the mouth of
Running Water. They are quite abundant about Floyd’s bluff, and
their skins are a considerable article of trade with the lower tribes of
Indians. The black tailed deer (Cervus macrotis) is seldom seen be-
low Fort Pierre. It is found chiefly in the ravines and in the most
rugged portions in the vicinity of the Black Hills and the mountains.

The a ppneble ene ae ‘the Shyenne and gies creek are noted

food, The beaver is increasing very rapidly and many of the moun-
tain streams literally with the
are over, and the price of the fie has becuihie 480 reduced, t

inducements to hunt them are not very great, and they are allowed to
multiply gpa Their flesh is eaten to some extent by the
Indians, and i tes drseng of other meat is considered quite a deli-
cacy. ‘There a sSocathes to be no diminution in the wolves and foxes, and
as they are of little economical value, I will not speak of them in detail. _

ote aeaig

riiouh

INDEX.

[The ey ex, tine denotes 8 special reference. ]

A
Page. | DIQ SLOTM --- 22 ene e wn cee wwe con eee 6, Tey 79
} F khice Douglassii z Fy. Bi abemne soit *12
_ Acer rubrum 77 Peigus Puver i550. os 522 °13, 34,°67 |
; Acer sack 77 Be Ww Ut ey see 25
_ Agricultural Indian 71,74 || Birds ...... #20, 21,71, 79
8: seeiitrar ands : ack Earth Creek 33, 34
Agricultural beret qecbuct cdswusss Blackfeet Indians .............-. #16, 17, 35
_ American Fur Company -... ---. -18, 19, ar a6K Hills oes 2. . des Seon ausee *6, 66, 67, 71
m ier | Black Walnut , 69
ote Bio SNM. cote ca ak ose 99 | e, W. , °63
Andy’s Lake .....- 34 | Blodget, Lo 41
‘alll rales 71 |, Blue Water Creek 28, *38, 39
telope 9, 23,71, 76,79 | Bluff formation ..- 69
: Antelope Losin 23 || Bordeaux, James ...--- ......sccees 920, :
_ Apios tuber 78 || Bowpith Indians 216
“Anprprition for explorations recom- | Box elde
: PEN vrcw cs occnetdewsuenenemee 19 || Brulé Indians ..... -16,17, 19, paker x,
es E kféhibutes ferrugineus *21 | Buffalo is 8, 7
_ Aricaree Ind 16, 19, 71 || flo = he "74,75
a «37 |sBall berry ....-. $.. 69, 77, 78
all Crook - pied s Suis hme Seige Re niin se 32, 76
tener iri ‘. 3
: thigh Sailesis: (See Brulés.) ty
] itera (trees) one , 6 2
Buttes des — de Chien .-:0.-- 24, 65 =
] ee db BODHI e kes sods Se neces ss #8, 9, 65 :
pe Atlastic States... ...220. 20k. 228 71 | ° G.
ik faloephe ere, peculiarity Of olivichs *76
poset, whitehead #91 | Cactus. 74
Calamus 26
B. Campaign np indians 22-2. vedas )
Campbell, Colin....-........ «=~ 20, 88, 39
6, 67, 268, 71,79 | Campbell Cree hi 33
reek 73 | Cannon Ball River ...-. -...- | ere ( r
Bad River. (See Teton River.) _Cafions )
er, Jamienc. ce wks Oe 20 | Carboniferous system-..--....--- *67
Balch, Lieut..-.--.- Md escuces._. 20 | Carrey, Pethyrapcecs sie $1,907, a 38, 40
‘ometers used 40 | Carrey’s Fork é
Barometrical observations. (See Errata.) | Cedars 11, 28, 69,
x . 46,47, 60, 61,62 | Cedar Creek
: Bass, (trees) 69 Cedar Island .
: wave Ground 33, 39 | Celtis occidentalis. .------.----- --- é
Be poe 71. | Cerasus Virginiana-.----..---------
_ Bears 73 Cervus macrotis
Butte 71 Cervus Virginianus .---------- Baan--
_ Bear Creek ...... . 32, 76 || Chaine de Roche Creek-.----- ------
eak 6 | Chalcedony...
_ Beaver ...... 31,71, 79 || ¢ ban-san-wWakps. (See James River)
Ravier Crk... ee ane. * sears 27 | Chan-ta-pe tan-ya ---
_ Beaver dams i 27 | Chanka Creek ..--.--------- --------
Bees oF RTE i ve sens
‘ Cottonwood Creek gh ou ee ta oa eever, Captain ‘eeu aekumat i
«es nt eae od henopodiaces? ....-. ---.---+- wsese 10,

( Ex. Doc. 76—6

a INDEX.

Page. jj Pare”
Cherry 69 * ead ee pee Saber a a oe fi
Chimney Roc Pa
Clara, Came Pucca cesveu eee 10, 11 pad Bouis’ Polke
Paissete tana leneuce S-ssGees By is Camp
‘offee bean-..--
Colorado desert. = E
EOMIDURILIO ca caau vec one cr acee eeeeee :

PIE sew ane needa ns ne® 10, 12, 24, 25,71, 74 —— Butte
Cornus sericea....-.---++++----- +--+ 77 | Plastic force of vapor -.-.-.. pepe 58 59
a pues sixes Vacs yecowk = 69 leagnus argentea ..---- c-+-cs succes (8

PULGR ue oa eee es 70 | Elk 2
- ois du Misa gut sncowess--sawe cise 34 | . gue 68 69. 71
Cottonwood ..... ti, 12, 13, 23, 24, a ps | Elm Creek * Sats pe
8, 69, 7 | Boom ts ;
y’s Creek BED
Ses a Sees sha amie kpanic a Sonyms atropurpurens -...----+-- 77
sau vans, 70 @
Cretaceous fossils 76 || .
Biwadibss sysions. 567, #70,7 3 Mare fe at the end of the Index.
Crook’s Puint ...- 37
Crow Cree | HS
row Indians 9, #19, 68 y
Crucifera Orns ‘ /
Cryptogamic plants ot anu J wei alee 77 | Rerries.-.--..--------- , 15, 22, 25, 33, «
Calber ertson, A 20, 36, 76 ] stibe country on Slisaourt Tiver. -..« ] )
urtis, “y Pre eee ae 20 ] ir = Steel c reek. Hammers cer wee cennene *
26, 30, 71, 7
owe yo
D. ort rthold B's
Dac ‘ort Clark :
Beier oe spell ing ee a | Port Grattan ;
rales words of the language.....- Be A gpdboricerda "a

Common war ground...... -...---- gS gird deme #18, 4

Pawnees driven from home by sideetiso 11 || £Ort flere. .----- .--+0. *18, 22, #38, 40, 41

Country occupied by anes a5 | = ore Ridgely wee ‘

Bands ep aan the nation ...---. 15,16 | Fossils..---.------ 63, %

Estimated numbers .... .-...----. BG:|| & PROM. «=

honk gee of Shyenne country .--. =—-17 | eat squirrel

Mod. subsietenee «.aees ckce cock 17+, Prax inus quedrangulais alee s waned
kee of obtaining horses -*..---. 17 | "raxinus a eg

Ski arfare PBN Se eae ae bs 7 (es émon*, ot ain * i

rr of shooting arrows. ..... re 17 | Fruits a

of aim. - 17 it ‘ungi .

] yeateuatia by small-pox . .....--- 17

Numbers increasing ........-...-. ¥7 | G.

’ fF TODOWR seein vec eniss liane 17 | ‘

Yesire for plunder ..---.-.-..---. 17 | Galpin, Mr 20,21

d for Seasielating offences... 17 | Galpin’s Camp 36

TInadequacy of peaceful policy with . 17 Game 78,79

aaieery facencion of country essen- ( oe a of Nebraska. ...-.. cdcnse

17 || Geology ....~.... 6, 11, 25, 26, 34, 36, 63, ts
nhs war with Pawnees....-........ 19)| Girard, Dr. Charles. cccceie tices.

At peace with Poncas ...... .--... 19 || Gleditset WE ete

geese ity for chastising northern “12

- ae = ( out Hen venresaces eens 20,5

ver

ee na lower tribes of Sioux 78 || ( send ori
Dead Man's norms pail ie Si WANE oe cea a+~ By 9, 32, 14, 22, * mm

6, 23, 29,79 || Grasshoppers.....- <viivanevenwee
3 ca seaman enoens 70, 7, 73,75 Grattan, Lieutenant
; © Grattan eee ww ee eee eee weer
p Devil's Lakes ase Gre:
from St. Louis to mouth of Great Bend, storm 66. o1senescn5 cued
Riv er eer ee ow ewe { J , James... S iatindiedtiad —-
*24, 65 || Grindstone Buttes C swat Gueues
69, 70 izzly bear

INDEX.

Page.
31
77

_ Harney, General W. S
tes wentarh rough-legged.....--..

‘Hay. den, Dr. V. F
‘Helianthus

75, 16, 74, 79
*15y16, 19, ie:

adi sn, sartedlcar ral.
Tadian 8, names and authority for spell-

24, 31, 74, 79

21,25
Tota vegeta food OF oven wehase 78
tribes 0.

19
16, i ba

1¢:19; Boy TOG, 29,
"(eo Beales. ye

ae ittetinchos

Mandans
Mde-wakan-tonwans

wD, il, 16, {6,91
, 10, 19, 25 |
16,35 |

| ~mrbiel * (Bee Isanties.)-.....--
16, 17, 19)

eee wee

ee ee

‘Isantie

P
Rus Indians wie ce ees cc ee
Itazipchos Indians. (See Errata).....
J.
pt sh & ae 2

James aire
Jewitt,
Fours} fe Fort Pierre to Fort

Suglans cinerea
uglans nigr

Keya
A erie

np

Li
16, br 71 ||

La aille Creek

amie road

Labyrinthian Sepulchre........-.--.
— apai

}

| Tatit udes

L'Eau qui Court River

— eb re, Jean
Leguminoz

Leidy, Professor

in 68
‘Little Missouri River. sce Teton River.)
Phos le BS!)

— -

8 |}
| ‘Loup ee

Long, Sig

jor. bn BEI Geert epics
| Longitu

Llano stack

— Pawnee River.)

“Menken W. (See White River.)
Maple

Maps ne ee terrats). oe

“Mausase Lobel (See Bad Lands.)
Maximilian, Pri
Seacceraks an- ne f
Loe : eporent : United States... 41, ue

| Moticine River

7, *18, 319, a

Ocaes ince if
*

o ae
tary pos
Mili ary rese ates Fort
ere Indians.
nita!
“Mini-to-wa-pacta (See Blue Water ¢
a

were teen

e Il eThanktonwans.), 2,

| Bennitare Indians... ---- Et 2 gait

Page
: antec sr Seuriedvscrcecd sosta. 33 |
HABOUNERAVOD: dua Soak roses Suk *9, 11, 68 |
Mitchell's Creek : 00
Moreau River.... 67 |
Moreau Road 37
Mormon Emigration...........----- 13
MMSiia5 Sdciecrreraecweenies
Muddy Creek
Mulberry: sc. coseesis eee epee A
N.
AVOL: OWOE sco wares Ss eek ke ess sf
avigation of James River. ..-..

Navigation of Missouri River....-... 10, 18 ||
avightion of Platte reat ‘eben 1 Ribes
Navigation of Shyenne River......-... 37 Riviere 2 Jaques. (See James R.)
ae raska, — conclusions of phy- | Roads. (See routes.) 6, 17, 15, 18, mene :
cal fea 21, 22 || 31;¢
abicska,. iinove age of geography, | Roots 26, 78
e., and necessity for further ex- | Rosa 78
plorations 19,20) Rose bud... 77,78
egundo — jee Coe we Re ek outes 5, 13, 14, 18; #2
Nicollet, I. N ..-.-- 20, 4 eee from Fort ea Fort Lar-
Niobrara ‘hiece (See l’Eau qui Court, ) ; 98, 29 , AA
Route from Fort Laramie to Fort :
O. PiOIe sons corre te a 9, 32:
t Route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kear-
Usteast cues cbse 11, 12, 28, 34, 69,71, 77 | a4 22, 29, 46

Q.
Page.
Quail 7
| Quercus IMACTOCAT PA 26'S ios eee q45
_R.

77 ||
oY | oe tae
69

1, 9 eerie

eee eee

79

6, 36, 41, 42
“Rapid eye — VEau qui Court.)
29

‘Ra whide , 39
Rawhid a 6-
| Reconnaissances recommended ..-.-.. 19, 29:
| Ree we Ne comb Se pe talis/ssisetous mf

e from Fort Pierre to Sioux ¢ city.

Prairie dog village.............. 69, 73,
ksh } eevhenry Dr
é. Sh enne Indians. eseer ere eee eee eee 16, 17,
nlotor 79 Shyenne River......-- canna *37, *67,70, 7
Peolaria esculenta... ..........000. — angus Indians. “(See Brulés.) ~
meter 40 | Sihasapas. Indians. (See Blackfeet.)

(48, 57

4 er Creek

71 — expen. sesaseul

Ogalala Sesh ere #16)719, *38,-39 eating water. (See l’Eau qui Court.)
> arc omen 9
he- n-pas tadiece #16 Ss.
Ortyx “Virginiana ‘ 79 |
Ovis m Ses 79 Sage Creek
r | Saline shrub
I 4 3a. ik ca
| Salt incrustations
Pacific Railroad —— on 20,66 Salt Springs
Pawnee Indians. ...2.....2.. 9, 11; 16, 19, 2 | Sand cherry
Pawnee River “11, 26,27 Sand Hills
Physa 76 Sans Arc Indi
PUNO See ses cee. u cee 6, 11, 12, 37, 69,71,77 Santee Indians. “Gee mp Jikvwacd
Pino’s sp 76 Sarcobetus vermicularis. ............
— uae 77 Scenery in Sand Hills 8
a ee ee eee 64, 65,76 Sciurus — ee
Star UeVoRieuecs ou 9) 68,74, 75, Tj boi eh
ta — OVER ae Ree ed rubby ‘
bec Scbwbeu sweety “41 27; #66 || i Selenite eri
12, 25, 78 |
Plum Creek 28 | § etlementa er fice 6, *17,
_ Pomme blanche, (errata,) 78s 64, 65,
POG TANS oi vce 9, 10, 19, 4 shaper erdia argenta
Pope, Captain Shining Hills cession

oo

INDEX.

% Page.

Sioux Seal < <n Dacotahs.) Topogr phy of Nebra

Sisi-tonw 15) Traneporation, ropes, &e.

Sketc T — species pla
Tre

Battle ground: ret Water Cr...-.. 38

t. YEau qui Court.....--. 63 |) Turkey Ridge
| Turkey Ridge Creek -...- be ate cae
a Turtles. (See Errata)
Tu rtle Hill
Turtle Hill creek
U.
79 || Ulmus Americana..---.------ casual ;
¥ bury, C 20, 21, 29,41 Ulmus fulva eer re. 77 oe
Staphylin trifeliata 77 | Unk-papa Indians -....-.. #16, 17, 18, 19, 3
tilonifera. .----- ‘ ae.
OTMB22---. ------ + +---s #39, #41, *43, *45 a ;
Sugar, maple
~e ess 69 | Van Vliet, Captain ...---..---------
Surv military. reserve, Fort Pierre. *35 || Vegetables
ie Swallow, Professo wi ese one 69 || Vegetation
Syc 69 | Vermilion River
Semglbolsicar pus vulgaris.---...----- 77 Vine, culture of
Syphon barometers used .-.--.------ 0 | Vites 76.7
(Voyageurs ..---. --2--+ eeens eee eee 70,71
T.
Ww.
: mein and distan 6,47
Barom. observations. (See Eira ) 6, 47 | Ww ahpa Shica. ae Teton R.)
1,62) Wah-pe-kute Indians -....---------- 15s
Distances from St. mor to aenke. | Wab-pe- e-ton-wan iudiass wuaee scenes 163
of Yellowstone Rive 3 bastard aaeer gig IZ
@ Of vapor .------.,--- . 58,59 | Warren’s Fork
Latitude, longitude, &c-.-.-------- Wat (See ee Springs. }ievuene 6, 22, 34, *73
Psychrometrical ob 48 || Waterholes Creek-.-----~----- ------
Talk with Indians .-----.----------- 38 || Washesha-ouza-wahpa. (See Vermilion R. de
Temperature .----- 60, 6L | ‘Werarhe Indians....-....---------
Terra incognita. ..-----.----------- 73 W nohenomennyd River a
ry Basin... .- 67,73 Wet eesus a
Tertiary System -..---.------------ 70) White "Clay Bee) Peer eek SLs
Tr cy isla ies *1, 23, *67, 72, 76 || White River..-.--.--- *12, 23, 30, 67, 72, Was
Tetrao cupido ....--..----- +--+ ---- 79 i © Wood R. (See James R. ) one
Tetrao ophasianclive i soos Saddell wie 9 || Wild horse...-....---- +--+ e---- a
Tilia ds choke ok 77 ‘Willows. ievaienae 12, 24, 26, wie rte m8
. PRET ooo... *6, 13, 37, ae a *71,72 Willow Creek -.-..-----------
Ash 1, 32, 68, 71 | Winship, Major O. F.- :
Nee os eS ce sae 69 | Wolf River. (See Pawn R.)
» Black walnut _.. 68,69 Wood-...------- *6, *10, 12, 14, 22, 34, 72,73
x elder 69,71 | (See Timber.)
ae int aaa al eeel ue eicc owes 68, ¢ | haa une we wowee
bosses 28, 69, 75 a ae fb GA eee
n nevaalehd seer > 12, 13, $894, 26, 27 7 | | Wood apoe bdss vos beseecees
68, 69, i | | Wounded Kees Greek... .-.s sss scuse

Grease wood 73
ickory, -- 79) ae
aple ..-- 69,77
Mulberry ------ )| Yankton Indians. (See Thanktonwans.) —
0 11, 12, 24, 34, 69, 71, 77 Yanktonnais Indians. (See Ihank
‘ Pine bie age eration bags esecceGy 11, R, of; 69, vay ; Yellowstone River «sees week ones ooee
_ Prickly ash.------- 69
_ Sycamore ..----- 69 Z.
WEIOW i ocr. tess 12, 24, 26, 27, 30, 34, 72 :
Titonwan Indians ----- --------------- -*16 | Zanthoxylum Americanum ---- pices
33) Zhicha Kaga- eeoaes

oka Kiya-Wahpa.----- seeeee esa } diel

vi: INDEX.

ERRATA.

For “scale of 1 to 300,000,” read “scale of 1 to 3,000,000,” 22d line from bottom, page 20;
same in letter to Colonel Abert, preceding the report, and i in the table of contents.
or “ Ttazi i i di

ere

3}
=
=
ic)
=
=
io |
5
—*
3
=
3
R
>
iQ

Ttazi
For ‘‘ Washté Wahpa,” read “ tig ashté,” 20th line from bottom, uae ve
For “ James Boldeaux,” read “ Jam Bordeaux,” 10th line from bottom
For “Alexander Cu bertstone, ” read “Alexand er Culbertson,” ath —— from aottems page 20.
After “ Chenopodiaceous,” read “ plants,” 4th line from top, pag
' For “tails,” faa “turtles,” 12th line from top, page 75.
ae a “ species,’ omit “ of,” 12th line from top, » Page eo
For “mud,” read “ wind,” 25th line from botto m, page
F oF < pomme blande,” read “ pomme blanche,” 11th lias: from top, page 78.

Table 6, page 60.

July 17, 3 p. m., for “354,” read “254.”
July 17, 4 p. m., for “ 160,” read “937.”
July 19, 2a.m., for “534,” read “634.”

y 22, 3 p. m., for “491,” read “391.
Sean the means.at the bottom of a table.

Table 7, page 61.

Disregard the ges 8 the bottom of the

Table 9, page 62, makes the mance ms Ge daily curve about $5 of an inch greater
than the sbarrentiona j in Rails 6 call for

Sen Fx Doc. 76-1. Sees 34.Cong

Spe: Steeles Ce tos

da

Place to ple ‘ue
many of al were
here killed or taken,

SCALE OF MILES.
9 1 '

. Place of concealmert of

“iy

emt

i: a 4 Ge
% = "Din
= \
$ oN
: 4
Ri. sé :
g a "
5
7 3
A
EC Genta

AAA
ALA

2nviles, |

%4tnch to one mile

Note. Ash Hollow tone x

mounted men under Cal Cooke.

-

‘its the field of action of the force

#\
rney’s Carp. Sept. 4 5&6.
\

arr
eon

under the command of
BVT. BRIG. GENL.W. S HARNEY
in the attack of the 3! Sept. 1855,
on the Brule’ Band of the Indian Chief
LITTLE THUNDER

_ made by :
- Lieut.G. K.Warren, :
Ty. Eng: Sof pegs ccain
sqt.J=

02 24
mae a Fe 184

: ae
536 Ci one. I.

X76 LSes

or
dase neboer Rew

= i
een Sees
we Fiakhes,, <a
eit a
Three "Butt

BLACK FEET

Riviere asx Maries

a

a R.

Neltmee ¥y stag rf
“ibe la oa stora?™|

Maison duChien ~

cia

it

fen

i‘ T =3
T “

PHOAN'N.

Sie G* whi

pppoe?

ale f
Bs
( ANDANS . i
se MRF,
nw a

a

ye
ARI # CAREES

SS.

1807

ft

‘xX PL OR ED: ;
|

|

Capt lark
Yo ORE
‘ Ale:

Ws
a

. We

kare Wor Comevers sali i9
« ‘:
yt :

( °
&

cA
(i
3 (i
&.

Warnarse Z Sy

“ebion

~~ —
(7
CON Stone pp . &
ae

Meer zg, Pe |

. a ~

oven OOM He Re 3 ,

Keo fel emte a, GreendR.
pop BOTS
ote Rte:
Se gn" ee

aaa

~~<scomeee

Lorwyn, = |
© Lamaze. op. Jy
"Wore pe
|
a |

fa
SE one

Tea.

ALALA DAC OTA =)
Podge Bote. Cr.

Sh a ws

voy,
~~,

Bilin ap

Ty. Dp
ia “a Lap, a
oa az,

7

\

iY

ie
ae

164
Boe - ae f

oh
vd
fra r es

Bradys Islan (i

\

\
\
\
\

je

Section of Map
COMPILED IN P.R.R.OFFICE
Willeadditids Lestgeel 60 Wtestr cate’
tWARRENS REPORT of MILITARY . : ORS
in the Dacota Country =a — Saas 4 Nee fs 2s é A v ses aide.
1855 | eee

Scale of 1: 2ccc00e

radon —
4
atte “id
ol

dow ey.

Lisle?

eee at oe
¥ plice?
Rer*

Compiled by Lt Warren, TE.
* Drawn by & Frevhad

Grand Satine Epp