I N S I D E1' R I C^K B A S S G Et S T HE EA^lQ I R D S - ' MONTANA FISH. WILDLIFE & PARKS | $2.50 .V"^ ^^PX^ SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2010 '^n V Drawing the iW f Whaf s it like to win a Montana ^ig game hunt of a^ljfetime? I. HOME dN THE RIFL \ MAVIS: PORTRAIT OF^AM EXtWAORDlfslARYf I HUiyfrlSlOW** i-i ■ Bost Magasine: 2005, 2006, 2008 itaMier-up: 2007. 2009 .; ,-. ,o-..,> ^ ^s^ 45cocfat/on for . ■■.'jfc.-,T73t/on STATE OF MONTANA Brian Schweitzer, Governor MONTANA FISH, WILDLIFE & PARKS Joe Maurier, Director MONTANA FWP COMMISSION Bob Ream, Ctiairman Willie Doll Ron Moody Shane Colton Dan Vermillion COMMUNICATION AND EDUCATION Ron Aasheim, Chief MONTANA OUTDOORS STAFF Tom Diclison. Editor Lul(e Duran, Art Director Debbie Sternberg, Circulation IVIanager MONTANA OUTDOORS MAGAZINE VOLUME 41, NUMBER 5 For address changes or other subscription information call 800-678-6668 Montana Outdoors (ISSN 0027-0016) is published bimonthly by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Partis. Subscription rates are $9 for one year, $16 for two years, and $22 for three years. (Please add $3 per year for Canadian subscriptions. All other foreign subscriptions, airmail only, are $35 for one year.) Individual copies and back issues cost $3.50 each (includes postage). Although Montana Outdoors is copyrighted, permission to reprint articles is available by writing our office or phoning us at (406) 495-3257. All correspondence should be addressed to: Montana Outdoors. Montana Fish, Wildlife & Part(s, 930 West Custer Avenue, R 0. Box 200701, Helena. MT 59620-0701. E-mail us at montanaoutdoors@mtgov. Our website address is fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors. © 2010, Montana Rsh, Wildlife & Pari *• » 0 1^ # f '.wrjji^m^p Though more than 1,500 miles away, the Deep- water Horizon offshore oil spill could harm some Mon- tana birds. The greasy black goo can coat the feathers and kill the food sources of many types of ducks, shorebirds, and other species migrating from and through Montana to wintering waters along the Gulf of Mexico shore and farther south. Steve Hoffman, executive director of Montana Audubon, says shorebirds wade shallow coastal waters eating crustaceans and invertebrates plucked from mud and sand. Oil from the BP well, which exploded April 20, has been washing up along some gulf wetlands and beaches for months. Among the Mon- tana species Hoffman is con- cerned about are sandpipers, dowitchers, phalaropes, herons, egrets, and terns. "Many will be down along the gulf trying to survive in that mess," he says. Five million gallons of oil leaked from the well before it was finally capped in late July. Bob Sanders, Conservation ^' iram manager for Ducks o Unlimited in Montana, says many teal and diving ducks win- ter along brackish coastal wetlands. "Oil is toxic to crus- taceans, invertebrates, and sub- mergent plants that ducks eat, so it's killing their food source," he says. "And oil gets on their feathers. They sink and drown." Catherine Wightman, avian biologist for FWP, says hydro- carbons in crude oil can damage -'^ .V *. a; '." ! ■■" '■■■.■*,/■ Diving ducks Includes redheads, scaup, mergansers, rihgnecks, ruddys, and csnvasbachs " Teal .— Includes |jsefen- winged. Cinnamon, and blue-winged , , Site of the DeepwSter H '^ IHorizon offshore well, which exploded April-', Fall and winter lep band recovery locations of divini ducks and teal banded In Montana, 1937-2005. Not shown are mallards, pintails, and other duck species that generally don't winter in the Gulf of Mexico. bird reproduction, create muta- tions in offspring, and kill birds outright. "Compounds in oil can create health problems for many generations of birds," she says. The oil spill highlights the interconnectedness of migrating birds and their various habitats throughout the Western Hem- isphere, adds Wightman. "May- be the only good thing to come out of this disaster is that more people are recognizing that what happens in faraway environ- ments can affect birds they see in their home state," she says. Fortunately, many Montana water birds don't use the gulf Sanders says waterfowl migrat- ing along the Pacific Flyway, which includes Montana's west- ern half overwinter mainly in California, the Great Salt Lake, and Mexico. "Mallards won't be affected because they winter pri- marily in Nebraska and along inland states bordering the Mississippi River, " he says. Also, most of the spilled oil has remained in waters east of New Orleans, while the majority of Montana's gulf-wintering birds stay along the Texas coast, west of the spill. Sanders says people can't do much about what is being called the worst environmental disaster in U.S. history. But they can still help ducks, shorebirds, and other water birds by demanding stronger public conservation pro- grams. One example he cites is the North American Wetland Conservation Act, up for con- gressional renewal this year. "We need to create and protect better quality habitat to hold birds off the coast, minimize them going out into the ocean, and make sure they are in the healthiest condition possible," Sanders says. iR^R-OcTOBER 2010 fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors OUTDOORS REPORT I Can you hear me (turning in a poacher) now? Outdoors purists may cringe when they hear someone's mobile phone ring in the backcountry. But those tiny communications devices are helping FWP game wardens catch poachers, says Brian Shinn, coordinator ot Mon- tana's Turn in Poachers Program (TIP-MONT). According to Shinn, calls to the TIP-MONT hotline are up more than 50 per- cent o\'er the past vwo years, from 1,300 in 2007 to 2,180 in 2009. "Hunters program the hotline number into their cell phone, and when they see someone breaking the law, they make the call right as it happens," he says. Shinn says that when people who witness a crime wait until they return home to call, "they tend to forget about it or shrug it off. But when they first see some- one poaching or trespassing, they get prett)' fired up. I've had a landowner call me and say, 'I saw a gu}' illegally kill a deer on my propert}', and I'm in my truck fol- lowing his \'ehicle right now.'" Shinn says people with cell phones are also able to provide more facts and details. "That's a big help for a game warden try- ing to build a case," he says. One of the most common calls to the hotline is from hunters walking on U.S. Forest Service roads closed to motorized vehi- cles. "They say, 'Hey, I hiked 5 miles up this road and a guy in a four-wheeler just blew past me,'" Shinn says. People can program the TIP- MONT hotline (1-800-847- 6668) into their speed dial like any other number. "Press one button and you're right into a dispatcher," Shinn says. "We can put you through to a warden or take the information directly." Callers may remain anony- mous. Cash awards are made for tips leading to convictions. Shinn says TIP-MONT has begun looking into the feasibil- ity of accepting text messages. "Texting is used by law enforce- ment in some other states. In Wisconsin, the Department of Natural Resources' poaching hotline has already started accepting text messages," he says. Shinn adds that F'WP public information campaigns over the past few years have helped make more people aware of Montana's growing poaching problem. "In the past you might have had people in a communit}' look the other way when they saw some- one poaching," he says. "But now they see themselves as the protectors of wildlife, doing their civic duty to report what they see. With cell phones, they've got the perfect tool to do that as fast as possible." New hunting license brings families together For the past three hunting sea- sons, something was missing from Bob Gibson's eUc camp: his adult son, Mike. After graduating from Mon- tana State Uni- versit}' in 1980, Mike could not find work here and ended up in Utah. To hunt deer or elk in Montana without an outfitter, he had to apply for a general nonresi- dent big game combination license, available only through an annual lottery. "It's luck of the draw, and Mike wasn't hav- ing any luck," says the elder Gibson, of Bozeman. Mike Gibson's fortunes — and those of other tormer Montana hunters with tamily here — changed for the better recently when Montana instituted the new Come Home To Hunt license. Passed by the state legis- lature, the new law creates 1,000 additional licenses available to nonresidents who previously purchased resident Montana hunting licenses or passed the state's hunter education course before 2010. The hunters must be sponsored by a family mem- ber to obtain either a nonresi- dent deer combination license or a big game (deer and elk) combi- nation license. Because the new licenses are in addition to existing nonresi- dent licenses, they don't take opportunities away from out- of-state hunters who didn't pre- viously live here. Montana typically makes available 17,000 nonresident big game combination licenses each year, 5,500 designated for outfit- ters' clients. The rest are awarded by lottery, where the odds are roughly two to one. Last year 19,000 nonresidents applied for the remaining 11,500 general big game combination licenses. "I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to hunting camp this year." To purchase a Come Home To Hunt license, a nonresident must fill out an application and have it signed by a sponsoring adult family member who is a legal Montana resident and has a valid Montana hunting license. Applications and additional information are available on the F\XT website at fwp.mt.go\'. Gibson says his son recently called to say he received his Come Home To Hunt license. "I can't tell vou how much I'm looking forward to hunting camp this N'ear," he says. "And this \ear we II not only have my son back in camp but also a grandson joining us for the first time. Hunting camp will be io\', pure \o\.' ™ Montana Oin n> September-October 2010 The Early Season Crossing the Divide ^ By Rick Bass. Illustrations by Stan Fellows. into bird hunting heaven. I love the sprawl and stretch of bird season in Montana, which begins so early, still in the grip of summer's delicious — and dangerous — heat, and runs so late into the grip of equally dangerous win- ter weather, where the dogs you helped keep safe from heat stroke must now be protected from frostbite. Over the years, upland bird hunting has divided, in my mind, into an Early Season and a Late Season, defined essentially by a rough midpoint of November 1. I couldn't begin to say which I love most. Whichever one is coming up next, I suppose. For most of the waiting year, that's the early season. Even though you have been counting down since, well, perhaps April, September always catches you with its onrush, its heated surprise. Summer's been great, but now it's time to go, whether you're quite ready or not. And so with a strange mix of the old eagerness and yet reluctance, you break free of siunmer's embrace and head east, out of the smoking moun- tains, with the fires of summer still licking the ridge tops here and there, and you cross over the Divide and drop down into the fladands, hoping to intercept the first few migrations of the season — the thinly clad stone-gray bullets of mourning doves, which race south well in advance of any hint of colder weather. And you hope also, in Septembei, to reacquaint yourself with the ever-faithful nati\'e upland birds — the exquisitely patterned (and exquisitely delicious) sharp-tailed grouse, which are always waiting for you, as well as the immi- grants of only a hundred years ago, the reddish mahogan)' and faster-flying Hungarian partridge. The country is always parched, though usually, in those first days of September, the summer ends with a purple thimderstorm, boiling up one evening, violet an\dl-shaped clouds filled with gold lightning bolts, so that the next day, rather than having limited water concentrating the doves, the doves have an infinitude of puddles from which to sip. They spread wide and far across the coimtr}- but no matter, they are still out there, and for a litde while, the land is cooler (A day or t^vo later, the water will dry up again, and it will be as if the rain never came, as if simimer will never end.) You're not ready, in September, but sometimes vou man- age to hit the birds anway — shooting instinctively in front of them, in your unreadiness, as if not yet fiiUy focused on the fact that hunting season is really here again, that the first eight months of the year have fallen away now, and that Rick Bass is a novelist arid nonfiction writer in Troy. A longer version of this essay first appeared in The Wide Open: Prose, Poetry, and Photographs of the Prairie (University of Nebraska Press, 2008). Used with permission. Stan Fellows of Iowa City, Iowa, has illustrated for publications including Smithsonian Magazine, National Geographic, and The New York Times. from here on everything will be fuller, and, for many of us, more deeply and sharply felt, in e\er\- \\'2.\. Somehow, a few birds accrue. The doves, with their thin feathers, are easy to pluck, and in the heat \'ou ha\'e to keep them in a cool place. You wait for them early and late in the day, and shortly after they have come and gone you take your out-of-shape dogs and out-of-shape self a short distance away from the shade into the bright yellow, drought-anguished, windy countr\', the alkaline gray dust rising from your boots. The dogs gulp water at ever\- opportunirs' from the offering of your cupped hand, and again, you start to realize — slowly at first, but then in a hurr)' — that summer is fiiUy behind )0u now, this year's summer gone forever, even though it ma\' \-et be the hottest week of the year. Beware the rattlesnakes. And when a flock of September sharptails launches in front of you, with their distinctive laugh going away, and you fire and tumble one or sometimes two — the snowT- chested birds seeming even larger than ever, after the small sky-piercing torpedoes of the doves — summer is fulh- gone. In its own way, the heat helps )'ou in this adjustment. B}- late morning it is already too hot to hunt, and you retire to the clattering shade of cottonwoods, many of which still possess deep green leaves, but some of which already show \'ellowing or even browning lea\'es. You nap there with vour dogs panting locomotive-breathed beside you, plopped down belly-cooled and early-season tender-footed in that shade, and with the shining brilliance beyond. Your mind is stifl sluggish, as slow as the doves are fast. And some of the co^'ey-birds that get up, the Huns and sharpies, are still too }-oung to shoot, a little too imformed. It's best to ease into it. Lying in the shade reading, I encounter a passage in a short story by Eudora Welty, in which she compares the color of a faded pink rose to that of the tongue of a panting bird dog. October, the second half of the first half. The case can be made that this is the best month, in that almost everything comes into season now — pheasants, waterfowl, even a litde antelope on the side, as well as deer and elk — a lovely distraction, a crescendo of wUd meat apptoaching later in the month. And furthering the case for October-as-peak is the incredible foliage, pardcularly along the river bottoms, where the birds are often to be found: crim- son chokechern; yellow cononwood, clear blue skies, wth snow dusting the distant moimtains now, good hard frosts each morning, and the geese heading south, calling each night. It is not uncommon, in October, with an antelope iced dovin in the big ice chest in the back — in those )'ears when I have been fortunate enough to find one — for me to stop 10 September— October 201 o fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors ^^: (/: ^ Montana Outdoors I 1 in the ever-more-yellow prairie and with the colder, more northerly wind in my face, to park not far from one of the windscreens of thirsty cottonwoods that signifies the pres- ence of an autumn-shallow riffling river and creep toward it, shotgun broken open for safety and loaded with steel shot, dog-on-a-leash (they are, aftet all, naughty big pointers, bet- ter at running powerfully ahead than anything else), and creep into that hedge of whippy cottonwoods — my heart pounding surely beyond its middle-aged limits as I hear a nervous gabbling of the ducks cloistered just on the other side of that screen, so close now that perhaps I could catch one with a lasso, were there room to throw. The dog is pant- ing, coughing, frantic at being so testrained, and at hearing the birds — hopefully, they cannot hear him over the sound of the riffles — and then we step — burst, really — through the last of that screened cover, announcing ourselves. The raft: of ducks converts instantly into a tower of ducks, and then a tornado of ducks, ascending; and yet look, a small miracle, one of them is falling from the tornado, pale belly bright and downward-moving against the all-else rise of flashing emerald, earth-color, violet, and black duck-color; and then, from higher up and farther out, another one falls, hitting the water with a splash, and I unsnap the dog and he hits the river like an arrow fired by an archer. But duck-water is rare in this country — rarer each year, in the continuing and historic drought — and the October days are more often spent following the upland birds. It's the month when pheasant season opens — the showcase-species for my pointers, the rooster pheasants being the only crea- ture in the world, perhaps save for maybe a cheetah, that can flat outrun these dogs; and here in their seventh year of existence, my hard-headed dogs are finally just about ready to make their peace with this fact, and are learning when to run full throttle and when to skulk and sneak and pussyfoot along. It almost doesn't seem fair: Each year there's a new crop of birds — brilliant with the instinct of their long exis- tence in the world but newcomers nonetheless — while the dogs now have seven seasons under their belts, as well as their own blue-chip databank of instinct, and by now have seen, on these same familiar fields, pretty much everything the pheasants can and cannot, and will and will not, do. As the new snow on the tops of the distant mountains — the Beartooths, the Crazies, the Big Belts, Little Belts, Absarokas, and even the Rockies themselves — summons the blood to a wondering and jo\'ful heart's leap, so too does that amazing moment when, after your dog has tricked the pheas- ant into giving up the running game and hunkering down to hide, and when, heart-thrashing, you and the dog both stand over that hidden and completely unseen bird, and yet know- ing, godlike, of his certain presence, and precise location — the bird's heart thrashing as hard as your own, and with the tension so electric that anything, an\thing at all, will spring the bird into the sk\' now, and you stand there, thinking. How can my old heart take any more of this? How? You take a deep breath. Sometimes you look away for a second, back toward those snowy mountains, and the blue sky, and the rattle of the yellow leaves, trj'ing to remember it, tr)'ing to absorb and inhale and consume it, tn,'ing to embed it so deeply that it will be with you even after you are gone, and you, in it; and then you look back down to the moment at hand — the dog still quivering, like an arrow that has just been fired into a stump — and almost gingerly, you nudge the tuft of grass with the tip of your toe, and the giant bifd appears from the grass like a dream created. The bird's coal-red eyes fix on }'ours in the fiercest of glares as he rises, wings flapping furiously, copper-and-black ban- ner of tail unfurling beneath him, the priestly white collar so clearly visible, and the violet-and-crimson-and-emerald head, with the bird peeling away from vou now, and further confusing and discombobulating you, the rooster is crowing and cackling, daring you, challenging you and your fading old heart. But you remember to shoot in front of the bird, aiming not at the spectacle, the incredible pageant of color that is the bird, but instead a short ways into the future; and when the wings stop flapping suddenly, and the flight is no more, and the bird is falling, you praise your dog, congratu- lating his or her excellence, and command the retrieve. All birds are beautiful, coming back to you in your dog's mouth, but there is no dog-gift, no present quite as beauti- ful as that of a pheasant, with the bright iridescent head and the long elegant sweep of tail feathers, and the joy and pride and confidence in the dog's eyes, as well as some other unnamable thing, some ancient thing. And again, out here in this open country, you are a part of it, in October. thirrj'-five-dollar-a-night hotel room, a flickering ball game on the televi- sion, and falling asleep well before nine, both dogs warming the foot of the bed, snoring quietly. The next day carries you farther into the inter- ior, and into the paradoxical knife edge of greater contentment, and greater loneliness, deeper into the hunting season. The dogs and I pass an abandoned school. Depression- era. What kind of adults did these children grow into, I wonder, staring around at the now completely uninhabited landscape. The chain halyard on a flagpole 70 years flag- less still bangs in the wind — as if the children have only gone out to recess — and I remember with sudden clarity and surprise a childhood friend who died young, whom I have not thought of in perhaps a quarter-century. GhostS; 12 September-October 2010 f\vp. mc.gov/mtoutdoors I DON'T MISS a single issue: Subscribe today! YES! I'd like a year (six issues) of Montana Outdoors for just $9. My/Donor Information (Required for gift subscription) Send a Gift to: Please pnnt) Name Name Address Address City State Zip City State Zip Select 1 Year 6/$9 2 Years 3 Years 12/$16 18/$22 Select: 1 Year 6/$9 2 Years 12/$16 3 Years 18 /$22 Payment enclosed Bill me later Add $3 per year for Canadian subscriptions. All other foreign subscriptions are $45/year, paid in advance Best Deal! For faster service, subscribe by phone: (800) 678-6668 Or subscribe on-line: fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors UlOA Place Stamp Here MONTANA OUTDOORS MONTANA FISH WILDLIFE & PARKS 930 W CUSTER AVE PO BOX 200701 HELENA MT 59620-0701 I'll Ilil>i"l'"lilliii|li<"i|»i'l I'M-I'M' 'htrv iTK/r. another of October's prairie migrants. Later in the day, the dogs and I walk up on two golden eagles sitting in the branches of a cottonwood. The eagles lunge forward into flight, breaking the rotting limbs when they lift off, and in the heat and wind I am dazzled, con- fused— two birds rising, and two great limbs crashing to the ground. I feel invisible, and though it is again a lonely feel- ing, it is one that is, I think, good for the soul, and particu- larly accessible, out here. Nearer to dusk, I stop near a bench of public land I wish to hunt, a place I've never hunted before — the ground before me appears overgrazed and the creek banks eroded by cattle hooves, but with a nice chokecherry thicket on the hillside — though first I want to listen to one of the baseball playoff games. The Astros, the team of my childhood, have squeaked into the playoffs and are improbably leading the mighty Cardinals. The old man, Roger Clemens, is on the mound, injured and ancient, with a full count against a young slugger. He tries to rocket a lastball past him one more time, as he has done so many tens of thousands of times before; but this time, this one time, it doesn't quite work out, and the Cards advance to the World Series, and to their appointment with destiny and the Boston Red Sox. Years ago, I would never have sat there in the car, so near to day's end, with hunting still to be done, and listened so comfortably to something as fleeting and irrelevant as a base- ball game. I would have been out charging the hills, pound- ing the hills, hunting hard all the way through the day's end. But now the ballgame is over, and I still have twent)' or so minutes. I take little speckled Point out toward those chokecherries, where he Hnds lor mc a single sharptail, which I hit with a long second shot. He retrie\es it, and as we walk back toward the truck, a long skein ot tundra swans passes overhead, flying low and slow, descending to open water. He lifts his head, starts to run after them, then just stops and watches, until they are too small, too far away to see, disappearing into the dusk and the velvet folds of the foothills, as if into a ca\e Kir the nis;lu. ^ Montana Oi'tiioors I ^ m; *'♦ K ■-''k W iff? fi^ ;\ ^ Si' : 'A^ r, (^ hen John Laughery of Moses Lake, Washington, learned he'd won a Montana elk hunting SuperTag, he let out a whoop so loud his secretary ran into his office. "What happened?" she asked. "I just won the lottery!" Laughery laughs at the recollection. "She thought I was talking about Mega Millions. 'But no,' I told her, 'It's better than that. I just got a SuperTag! " The SuperTag, a special hunting license awarded by lottery, allows winners to hunt in any Montana hunting district, including the famous limited- entry trophy areas. Laughery says that winning the coveted hunting license gave him a new lease on ife. "I got hold of a trainer and started working out three days a week," he says. "I ended up losing about 20 pounds, and I took 36 days oft work, which I hadn't done in ten years." Then the really hard work started. "I did a lot of on-line research and talked to friends," Laughery says. His brother, a Montana fish- ing and hunting guide in the Fort Smith area, also helped, asking around tor where his luckv brother should hunt. The first place the Washington hunter hit was the Elkhorn Mountains, south of Helena, during the tail end of archeiy season. "I saw a lot of elk in there but didn't get one," he says. "But basically that was just the first part ot my trip. Then it snowed, so I hung out for a tew more days, then drove to Billings, hopped on a plane, and flew back to Moses Lake tor an audit." An audit? "Yes, I had an audit with the lovely people from the IRS," Laughery explains. "The guy .said, 'You seem kind of antsv.' And I said, 'I'm not ant.sy about my txx return, I just want to get the hell out ot here' When I told him why, he kind of grinned and said, 'Well, let's just cut this short.' Seems like when you set a tag like this, all of a sudden other hunters want to help \OLi out." A few days later, Laughery was back in Montana, this time in the southeastern corner. "I was on a ranch down there for about ten days and saw some realK' nice bulls. But wc didn't sec the one 1 reallv MoNT.\NA Ol I ni "Ifticknamed him 'Angry M'bose' because of the whole showdown that led to me shooting him," says Glen Majors (left). "He's not the .^hifi.hruiser I was after, but ^hole experience makes a trophy in my book." h Laughery (right) was |xcused early from an IRS ||to hunt this bull elk ■Big Sandy. wanted until late one night and I could never find it again. "In the meantime, I'd been talking to a rancher who lives up by Big Sandy. I find out his cousin lived in Moses Lake, where I'm fi-om. And it turns out the cousin was my seventh-grade English teacher." Score one fiar connections. Laughery received an invitation. "So I spent 11 or 12 days up there," Laughery says, "and on November 19, I ended up shooting a nice six-point bull." A CHANCE FOR ORDINARY FOLKS Montana began offering SuperTags in 2006 as an answer to public criticism that Fish, Wildlife & Parks' big game auctions, con- ducted to raise management funds for bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and other coveted species, were available only to the wealthy. Some bighorn sheep licenses have gone for more than a quarter-million dol- lars. "Montana decided to give folks who didn't have that kind of money an opportu- nity to win the same type of license," says Ron Aasheim, head of the department's Communications and Education Bureau. Every year, Montana awards one SuperTag each for moose, bighorn sheep, elk, deer, mountain goat, mountain lion, pronghorn antelope, and bison. Both resi- dents and nonresidents may buy unlimited numbers of the lottery chances at $5 each. FWP considers the drawings a huge suc- cess. The more than $300,000 generated from SuperTag lottery sales each year pays to enhance public hunting access and boost game law enforcement. Most applicants buy just one or two Dave Carty is a freelance writer in Bozeman. chances, says Aasheim, but some improve their odds with multiple purchases. One year a single hunter bought 400 sheep SuperTag chances. Another bought a combined total of 800 chances for moose, sheep, and mountain goat. Of course, the fact that a person can buy more than one chance favors those with higher incomes, but Aasheim notes that most SuperTags have been won by hunters who purchased just one or a few chances. "Luck is still the biggest element," he says. What are the odds of winning? Aasheim says roughly 21,000 chances are purchased for bighorn sheep and 15,000 for elk. The odds are far better for pronghorn, averaging 2,000 chances sold each year, and mountain lion, with 1,500 chances sold. OH WHAT A FEELING Each year several lucky hunters win a SuperTag license for any hunting district in Montana, including the famous trophy areas. Find out more at FWP offices, license providers, and on-line at fwp.mt.gov. LOTS OF LEG WORK Winning a SuperTag is certainly a thrill, but it's no guarantee of success. It's not even a guarantee the winner will find a place to hunt. Like any hunter, a SuperTag license holder needs permission to access private land and will find trophies on public land only with plenty of scouting and leg work. Locating a district with heavy-racked moose, bighorn sheep, or elk isn't the same thing as actually finding a trophy within that district. Which is why Glen Majors of Manhattan ended up putting 3,000 miles on his truck a few years ago. "It was almost total disbelief and shock," says Majors of hearing the news he'd been drawn for a moose SuperTag. "It threw off all my plans. I had wanted to do a bunch of elk hunting, but all I ended up doing that fall was hunt moose." By the end of the season. Majors had driven the equivalent of a coast-to-coast trip to check out Montana moose hunting areas, walked dozens of miles on scouting trips, and talked to everyone he thought might know something about moose. In the end, he focused on the Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. That's where he learned that when you call in a moose, you might get more than you bargained for. "I'd found a nice bull, and was trying to get in on him, but I just could never get an opportuni- ty," Majors recalls. "I was walking through 6-foot- high willows, and I knew that other moose were in the area. All of a sudden I had a cow and calf up in front of me, and a small bull to my left, and then another bull." It turns out the other four moose also had been attracted to Majors's calls. "That cow started closing the distance on me. There were no trees in sight, just willows. Then one of the other bulls starts staring at me, and the next thing I know he's rolling his head and walking toward me. I was kind of in disbelief this was happening to me. "Of course, growing up in Montana, I know Id I September-October loio fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors that moose are sometimes more dangerous than bears. So I'm talking to the bull, but it did no good, and he kept taking steps toward me. He got closer and closer, and by this time I'm waving my rifle in the air and picking up my voice and trying to spook them away. I had no exit. I was surrounded by moose." For a few tense moments, says Majors, it looked like the moose might have drawn a bead on him. That's when he decided his hunt had gone on long enough. "When that closest bull turned his head to look at the cow, I shot him in the neck and dropped him right there," says Majors. BEATING THE ODDS— AGAIN Most SuperTag hunts aren't so dramatic. But some are even more so. When Larry J. Martin of Clinton won a moose SuperTag last year, his life was unraveling. "I had mixed emotions," he says of getting the call from Aasheim that he'd won. "That same week I'd found out I had throat cancer. And one of my dearest friends had died of cancer 30 days before I found out I had mine. So I was preparing to die. I wasn't really preparing to think about moose hunting. As thrilled as I was, and as much of an upper it was to hear I'd won, it didn't offset the downer of finding out you have a disease that, when you go on the Internet, statistics say that only 16 percent of guys age 65 to 70 are going to live through.' Martin, a novelist, was 68. He'd had cancer once before, beat it, and decided to fight the disease with everything f-^Ai£^. he had. He went to Houston, Texas, for 35 days of radiation treatment. By this time, the moose rut was over, making it harder for Martin to find a bull when he returned. But, weak as he was from the cancer therapy, the hunter still wanted to fill his SuperTag. He says he knew his moose was still out there somewhere, waiting for him. "I got on the phone and talked to every outfitter around," says Martin. "Then I called a friend of a friend who had found moose for a couple of other guys." Un- fortunately, Martin was still weak and could not hunt far from his vehicle. "But we went out anyway and, sure as hell, we stumbled onto a 45-inch moose that I killed 98 feet from a logging road. I know 100 RAMS LATER Steve Carson, who lived In Helena when he won his bighorn sheep Super- Tag, says he spent months scouting seven hunting districts and glassed roughly 100 rams before killing this one north of Anaconda. it was 98 feet because I then called my son, who had 100 feet of line on his winch. We had just enough to wrap the horns and get the bull to the road. My son — he's a young buck in his late 40s — then shimmied up a tree and chained a block up there. We ran the line through it, pulled my truck under it, and dropped the moose in the bed." Martin says he would have liked a larger bull but was happy enough with the one he shot: "1 was afraid not to take him. 1 was afraid I was going to run out of time." It turns out he had more time than he thought. Martin recently reported that his cancer is in remission. BACK BEFORE DARK Many SuperTag winners try to stretch out their hunt for as long as possible, relishing the chance to be outdoors while searching for a trophy. For instance, Ryan Stratman of Bozeman says the 20-plus days he spent scouting the high country around Bozeman for mountain goats with two friends was as fun as the hunt itself Then there are the hunts that are over almost before they begin. After the usual research on the phone and Internet, mountain goat SuperTag winner Ian Weaver of Fredericksburg, Ohio, decided to hunt around Fairy Lake in the Bridget Range. The hunt began inauspiciouslv when an earK' season storm rolled into the area. Weaver and his hunting partner first tried to wait out die bad weather, but after a lew da\'s the\' decided to bundle up and look for mountain goats anyway. "We hiked up over Fairy Lake and there they were, just as planned," Weaver says. Less than an hour after spotting a big billy. Weaver killed the trophy. He and his partner were back in Bozeman with the mountain goat before dark. Even if the endeavor is relativeh- easy or the animal's rack is smaller than they'd hoped, most SuperTig winners emerge from their hunts with trophv-sized memories. "It I never shoot another moose again, that gu\' is still a troph)' to me," Majors says ol the undersized bull that almost ran him down. "That whole situation — I'll never forget the craziness ol it." .And yes, he's hoping against all odds that he'll win another moose SuperTag. "I'm buy- Ini; chances ever\' \'ear," he sa\'s. ^ Montana Oiitpoors T^m>^ fr Family Reunion photo essay Thomas Baumeister grew up in central Germany in a small town near Frankfurt. From an early age he accompanied his father on weekend himts in the woods, and today he still returns to Germany or invites his dad to Montana in the fall so they can himt together. "The bond we have with each other and with hunting is so gen- uine, so important," says Baumeister, F^T's Education Program manager. Several years ago when he and I went pronghorn hunting near Harlo\\T:on, Baumeister brought along his four-year-old son Xander. He pulled the blond boy around in a game cart as we searched for bucks. ^Tien Baumeister shot his prong- horn, he asked me to take a photograph while he knelt proudly next to the ani- mal with his son. I noticed he had tears in his eyes and asked why. "I'm not sure, but having Xander here and having these two parts of my life that I love so much come together is ver\' powerful," he replied. Bob Gibson of Bozeman would understand. The 77-year-old former U.S. Forest Service supervisor loves to hunt, especially with his son Mike. "You can't beat having something in common with another member of your family, some- thing you both care about so deeply," says Gibson. Other hunters I know feel the same way. One friend can't wait for the day his daughter joins him on a bowhiint. Another continued to invite his dad to deer camp even when the old fellow could no longer hunt, so he could enjo\' the hunt- ing camaraderie. Then there's Baumeister, who is counting the days to when his now ten-year-old son earns his hunter education certificate and can buy a deer license to hunt with his dad — and maybe Grandpa, too. On the following pages are images of Montana hunting families who represent the tradition and heritage of kin coming together at har\'est season to take part in an age-old ritual. It's a time when older generations pass wisdom, knowledge, and experience down to younger ones, who in turn rejuvenate their elders with eagerness, hope, and delight. "The memor)' I have of tagging along as a boy with my dad on those first hunts is something I'll always have, something I'll never forget," says Baumeister. "And it's something I know will always have a special meaning for Xander when he grows up." — Tom Dicksotz -2*^4fe#,"3^^- .".'^**--^ ^• ;v^^4^ R^»p! outdoors ^ \ i' B II Buckley 20 IS: ;PTEMBER— October 2010 i fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors Clockwise from top left: Dusan Smetana Bill Buckley Donald M. Jones Denver Bryan Paul Queneau MllNTANA Ontn ^:\-3^ ^^' m-^r-. n Mi.' .-, .4 22 S Clockwise from top left: Tim Christie Kenton Rowe Victor Schendel Kenton Rowe Victor Schendel PTEMBER— October 2010 fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors MOiNTAN,\ Ol MOUNTAIN, ^" SELF Finding more than elk in a backcountry wilderness. BY BEN LONG '4tm: i^. ■^^S^ .^>w?x- ,:*s**v*-^ <=-^ EPTEMBER-OcTOBER io. 10 .. fwp.mKgovymtoutdoors Li ; V' J ^. ^i^ r^R' ^fi^-: j^^ * K0(nmUNM1(mALF0l!E5ID; MoNl \->\ (■ If you are what you eat, part of me is the Kootenai National Forest. In particular, some of my atoms and isotopes come from a single mountain on this two-million-acre national forest in northwestern Montana. It's a place the U.S. Forest Service des- ignates a "roadless area." Kootenai elk are not frequently featured in "hot spot" hunt- ing magazine articles. The Kootenai forest is thick, steep, and cold. You can hunt entire seasons without laying eyes on an elk. Yet somehow, this mountain holds my imagination in its grip. Spanish philosopher Ortega y Gasset could have been describing a hunt in these rugged mountains when he wrote that "the beauty of the hunt lies in the fact that it is problem- atic." Hunting here poses problems and beauty in equal shares — sometimes all I can stand of both. Predawn on opening day I was leading my 1 5-year-old friend Jeremiah through the woods by headlamp. With young knees and contagious enthusiasm, he's a fine hunting partner. More practically, while I was limited in this hunting district to a brow- tined bull, as a youth hunter he was allowed to shoot either a cow or a bull. That upped our odds substantially. I discovered this mountain the same year Jeremiah was born. I was drawn to the fact that it's a lone, undeveloped drainage in a sea of what the Forest Service euphemistically calls "intensively managed" forest. Getting away from roads and clearcuts is what I love about elk hunting. The mountain is steep enough to keep out all but the most dedicated. Sun-up here looks like the dawn of time. That first summer I explored this mountain, my girlfriend and I hiked to an open ridge and spread our sleeping bags under August meteor show- ers. In the morning, we picked huckleberries for our breakfast pancakes. A few years later we got married. The mountain has provided us since with meat every win- ter and enough antlers to clutter my office and garage: a 27- inch mule deer buck lured to a cow elk call; a 20-inch white- tail that walked past a trailhead where I stood waiting for more daylight to begin hiking; my two biggest bull elk, as Ben Long is a writer in Kalispell. This essay was originally published in the January-February 2009 issue o/"Bugle, the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation's journal of elk countiy and the hunt. Used with permission. well as others more suited for the freezer. Not to mention grouse, trout, and more huckleberries. Moreover, this mountain feeds my soul. Some hunters cast a wide net, wearing out pickup tires and applying for far-flung permits. I keep returning to this mountain 60 miles from my front door. By learning what makes an elk herd tick, you begin to learn what makes a mountain tick. And what makes you tick. Fifteen years is a sizable chunk of a person's life. I started hunting this mountain as a bachelor in my late 20s and now am in my early 40s. My pack full of responsibilities has grown heavier as the mountain has grown steeper. Boys I hunted with here years ago are now men with children of their own, and other men I've shared this mountain with are now gone forever. I feel I am finally learning this mountain's secrets — like my investments are only now paying dividends. I have a fair sense of where game animals water and feed, how they run under pressure, and where they retreat until that pressure passes. I know the mountain is vast enough to hide the mature bulls and big enough that I can still get lost in its cliffs, crannies, and blizzards. Some days I feel like the mountain might kill me, and on others it has made me feel my most alive. Every year the mountain asks me: Are you tough enough to hunt here? Every year I answer: So far. The Great Burn of 1910 scoured the mountain. Giant snags stand like the masts of sailing ships over a sea of second- growth lodgepole pine and western larch. The slopes are scabbed with brush fields and bunchgrass pastures, opened up by that historic fire and renewed by smaller ones since. Some of my best hunts here I never fired a shot. One day with perfect tracking snow, I followed the fresh trails of seven big game species: elk, mule deer, white-tailed deer, moose, black bear, mountain lion, and wolf And above me I could see the crags where bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and grizzlies live. The only human tracks I saw that day were from my hunting partner. It's a very healthy place — in large part because people must arrive on their own power, and the wildlife is spared the disturbance that comes with motor traffic. The mountain is mapped with names of my own making: Crookedhorn Saddle, where a friend shot a bull with an ingrown antler; the North Fortress and the East Fortress, dark timber where elk hide when pressure heats up; the Savannah, a gentle slope of bunchgrass and giant Douglas fir where elk loaf on sunny winter afternoons. Jeremiah and I have our own stories. He shot his first cow elk here exactly one year ago, and his older brother, Colin, took his first whitetail buck on this mountain a few years before that. I was eager for another day for the memory books. As Jeremiah and I walked through the inky dark forest, we were startled to see ten sets of eyes reflecting the glow of my headlamp light. My first thought was that we'd stumbled into 26 September-October 2010 fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors the local wolf pack. Then what turned out to be several white- tail does and fawns snorted and were gone. We climbed through the morning. Mid-slope, we surprised something big nearby in dark timber. It made a crash so loud we both jumped in our boots. Then we caught a glimpse of the noisy beasts: two moose. Jeremiah and I found the top third of the mountain under an inch of fresh snow. Good for tracking and stalking, but wet and likely to melt soon. We ate lunch under the lookout and reconnoitered with Jeremiah's brother and dad. They bore long faces and sad tales. They had found elk at dawn just as planned, a bugling bull and a dozen cows. Colin fired two shots but missed clean. I suspected the herd might go to a saddle at the foot of the Savannah, a notch that leads to the North Fortress. Jeremiah and I set off to see if we could find them. Sure enough, tracks told us the elk had passed through the saddle at a walk. They would go into the North Fortress and bed down for the day. Jeremiah and I followed, slow and quiet in the snow. He led the way, holding his grandfather's .300 Savage 99 at quarter arms. We followed the trail into the afternoon. It was tough going to start with and got worse. From what I could tell, the elk could have been 100 yards deeper in the timber or all the way to Canada. After an hour in the deadfall jungle, we reached our personal point of diminishing returns. The odds of sneaking up on anything were slim. It was hard enough just to stand upright. We returned to the saddle and crossed the pack trail that led back to the truck. "We have a choice," I told Jeremiah. "We can take this trail, which is pretty easy, or we can bushwhack down the face of the mountain to Telegraph Ridge, which is pretty hard. It's steep and dense. It's going to be slick with this wet snow." "Where do we stand to find more elk?" Jeremiah asked. "Down the face." "Then let's go down the face." Good lad, I thought. We delved back into the timber. Bull sign was thick, with one rubbed tree after another. But the trees could have been shredded a month ago. After another quarter mile, we made game, this time a herd of young mule deer bucks. They were legal, but we were a long way from the truck, and it was only opening day. We'd have other chances at deer. "They're bucks, but not worth shooting way back here," I whispered to Jeremiah. "Why don't you sneak up on one and put your crosshairs on it. Count coup, but don't shoot. Leave your safety on." We stalked on. I showed him how to lean the rifle against a tree trunk for support. He took aim, exhaled, and whispered "bang." By moving slowly, we crept past one deer after another with- out spooking them. "That's a pretty good one," Jeremiah said of the fourth buck, hoping I would give him the okay. "Sorry," I said. "We're hunting elk." We kept going. A few more yards and I saw another bull rub. I pointed it out. "Look," Jeremiah hissed. "There's another buck standing behind the rub." Jeremiah crept toward the buck and squinted through his scope. For some reason, I glanced over my off shoulder and, to my shock, saw an elk standing broadside, about 30 yards downslope. Bull! I would like to say that I gallantly offered the shot to Jeremiah. But there was no time. In an instant I found the bull's shoulder in the crosshairs of the scope of my .308 and pulled the trigger. Jeremiah was stunned at the gunshot. He rushed over to me. ""What was that?" As if to answer, we heard the crash of a large animal hitting the ground. "I just shot a bull elk," I said. Our elk hunt had gone from zero to a bull down in all of five seconds. Hunting dark tim- ber is like that. We knelt down and I let my case of the shakes run its course. Then Jeremiah stood at the spot where I'd taken my shot as I eased my way downhill to where the bull had stood. There was no tracking necessary. The five-point was crammed under a downed log. He fell so hard he broke a brow tine. "Come on down," I said. "We've got a lot of work to do." As I knelt down by the bull, before the drudgery of butcher- ing and packing began, I briefly savored the moment. We would have prime meat for the winter and another adventure stor}' to share for years to come. I gave silent thanks for my luck, my firiends, and most of all, this mountain. 1ft The author atop Barren Peak, Kootenai National Forest li Is Montana Ourno'i '.! ; -^^ 1 1* ■**/ '^ Sectember^October vp.mt.goV/mtoutdoors . Great catch: one year only $9. Subscribe today! I'd like a year (six issues) of Montana Outdoors for just $9. My/Donor Information: (Required for gm subscription) Send a Gift to: (Please prim) Name Name Address Address City State Zip City State ap Select: 1 Year 6/$9 2 Years 3 Years 12/$16 18/$22 Select: 1 Year 6/$9 2 Yeats 12/$16 3Yea5 18/$22 Payment enclosed Bill me later Add $3 per year for Car)3di3n subscriptions. All other foreign subsciiptions are $45/year, paid in advance Best Deal! For faster service, subscribe by phone: (800) 678-6668 Or subscribe on-line: fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors UlOB Place Stamp Here i,^ ■> MONTANA OUTDOORS MONTANA FISH WILDLIFE & PARKS 930 W CUSTER AVE PO BOX 200701 HELENA MT 59620-0701 / ■ / , PHOTO J J • I ISSUE nliiii"l'"lilli|i|l I«i'l I lii'I'M'l' Don't miss the photo issue. SUBSCRIBE TODAY! ^-!;;% 'V r, „,iA N THE THICK OF IT Pheasants and white- ailed deer burrow into the densest cover hey can find, often along river bottoms. Ishing access sites throughout Montana, ispecially those on large rivers such as he Yellowstone, are rich in riparian habitat, 'hough many hunters don't know it, most if these public sites are open to hunting. The word is out: Most of Montana's 334 fishing access sites are open to public hunting. BY BOB GIBSON he purple-and-crimson flash at Grant Marsh Fishing Access Site on the Bighorn River meant this was going to be a good day for the two sportsmen stepping out of their pickup truck. But not for fishing. Instead of a leaping rainbow trout, the splash of color came from a rooster pheas- ant, and the two fellows were hunters, not anglers. With chaps attached and shotguns in hand, they quickly disappeared into a labyrinth of Russian olives and marsh grass behind an energetic springer spaniel. For an entire afternoon they plied 42 acres of fields, fence lines, and dry cattail sloughs without ever leaving the fishing access site. Montana sportsmen and sportswomen have discovered that many fishing access sites comprise rich riparian bottomland and nearby upland grasslands — ideal habitat for white-tailed deer, sharp-tailed grouse, doves, wild turkeys, sandhill cranes, waterlowl, and pheasants. In late fall and early winter, hunters actually outnumber anglers at many fishing access sites. Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks has estab- lished 334 fishing access sites on rivers, creeks, ponds, and lakes across Montana. The sites provide free public access to the states waterways for fishing and other water-based recreation. They range from the sprawling 60 1 -acre Henneberry Fishing Access Site on the Beaverhead River to the Yellowstone Rivers Corwin Springs site, no bigger than a suburban residential lot. The access sites usu- ally contain a cement boat ramp and a vault latrine. In addition to fishing, they provide places for people to hike, camp, and watch birds. The hunting can be tremen- dous. Because thev abut water, fishing access sites often provide great waterfowling opportuni- ties. Many also offer hunting lor ringnecks and wliitetaiLs — two game species that prefer § thick, dense cover near water. I Hunting opportunities .uid Q regulations varv widely from site Montana Oitiicioks 2 0 V to site. Some are closed to hunting because they are too small to offer meaningful oppor- tunities. Others, next to towns or neighbor- ing farm buildings, limit hunters to shotgims or archer)' equipment. But hunting is legal on most fishing access sites. Hunters can learn about restrictions from signs posted at entrance roads and in the free "Fishing Access Site Field Guide," available at FWP regional offices, major sporting goods stores, and on- line at fwp.mt.gov. Hunters may also call FWP regional offices for hunting restrictions on specific sites. Despite the great wildlife habitat there, fishing access sites are not purchased for their hunting potential. Allan Kuser, FWP's fishing access site coordinator in Helena, says the department's primar)' goal is to pro- vide public access to water for angling. The department looks for sites where there is also room for a boat launch, latrine, parking, and Bob Gibson is FWP's regional Infonnation and Education Program manager in Billings. 30 September-October 1010 ftvp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors shore fishing. But because the sites frequendy include adjoining acreage in the purchase agreement, the public ends up with places for both fishing and land-based recreational access. "The hunting, hiking, and birdin? are bonus features," Kuser says. For example, the 172-acre Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone Fishing Access Site \\'2& pur- chased in 2008 to give people a place to hand-launch boats, fish, float, and play in the water along a mile of river frontage south of Bridget. The propert}' also came with two irrigated farm fields, water rights, and a wide swath of bottomland thick with cotton- woods, willows, and cattails. One corner of the tract climbs into rimrocks and sagebrush benches where mule deer live. A local farmer plants the cultivated acreage with small grain crops each spring, which keeps noxious weeds under control and provides additional food for wildlife. Because of the rich, diverse habitat, visitors may see wild turkeys, white- tailed deer, red foxes, raccoons, and pheas- ants. Bird watchers love the site for the manv resident and migrating species, and hikers enjoy the solitude. Also along the YeUowstone River, the new Holmgren Fishing Access Site provides a stopover for rafters and anglers floating between Reed Point and Columbus. A mile of riverbank providing access to streamside fishing holes is flanked by a wide strip of river bottom that holds game birds, water- fowl, and deer. Downstream from Billings, nearly every fishing access site along the Yellowstone River includes at least a patch of brush, a fence line, or an o\'ergrown back channel — all contain- ing game birds and deer. Old wooden tree stands at many sites are testament to the fact that hunters used the properties long before FWP bought them for public fishing. Kuser says hunters can find game on fish- ing access sites across Montana. "They're often overlooked by hunters because they're designated for fishing," he says. "But people should know they can hunt on most of these, sites. It's public land." '^ \ M.)XT\'^ 1. 0\ IT'S TIME After a lifetime of pursuing big game trophies from Missoula to Anchorage, 83-year-old Mavis Lorenz hands her rifle over to the next generation, by noelle naiden IN Montana, it's not unusual to meet a woman who hunts. But it is surprising to meet one who hunts on her own, has chased game animals for more than half a cen- tury, and has taken many big game trophies — including one of the largest bighorn sheep ever killed in Montana. Mavis Lorenz, 83, is a woman of endless passions and interests. The Missoula resident has served on Montana's Private Lands/ Public Wildlife Council, volunteered for a federal grizzly bear DNA study, and taught fishing to Missoula grade-schoolers. She has competed at the masters level in track and cross-country ski racing (the latter interna- tionally), taught physical education at the University of Montana, and assisted with FWP's Becoming an Outdoors-Woman workshops. The 114-pound adventurer has also motorcycled through Mexico, kayaked Idaho's Lochsa River, rafted the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, and hiked extensively in Europe and Asia. In the 1970s, she earned her pilot's license. In the meantime, she has hunted for almost every North American big game species, in Alaska and Canada but mostly Montana. "I love the different challenges hunting offers," Lorenz says. "One is trying to find an animal on its home ground and outfoxing that critter. You might not see what you're hunting for, but you'll always see something interesting if you go out." Hunting has been Lorenz's sustaining heartbeat since she was a girl growing up in rural Wisconsin, where she was taught by her Noelle Naiden is a writer in Missoula and a traditional longbow hunter. mother, a crack shot. "Oh could she shoot that .22," Lorenz says. "There wasn't a rabbit left in the garden after 24 hours when she picked up that gun." By age 12, Lorenz was allowed to take the family's .410 shotgun out by herself and hunt squirrels. "I had to go alone, because my folks thought two kids with a gun were riskier than one," she says. During World War II, when commercially sold meat was rationed, hunting was a serious affair for Lorenzs family. "We'd start in the fall when the squirrels were big enough to eat," she says. "I was given only three shells. If I didn't bring a squirrel back, I was repri- manded. In our family, if you wanted to hunt you'd better get something, so I did." Lorenz never lost that desire to succeed as a hunter. After moving to Montana in 1954 to teach at the University of Montana, she began hunting with a group of men who worked at the Bonner mill. One of her most memorable outdoors experiences was an elk hunt with the group. "We were up Ninemile Prairie in one guy's old station wagon," Lorenz says. "We ran into a small bimch of elk that crossed in front of us, and Blackie said, 'Who wants it?' I said, 'I do — and don't follow me!' There was a little grassy draw, and this elk was silhouetted on the other side. I sat down in the snow and peeled off a shot. It fell and slid dowTi the hill. I kept shooting, and then I heard Blackie's voice, 'For God's sake, Mavis, stop shooting! It's dead!'" Another unforgettable hunt was in the Rock Creek area, where, at age 66, Lorenz shot what at the time was the seventh largest bighorn sheep ever taken in Montana and the largest killed in the state by a woman. Lorenz says it took 1 8 years of applying before she finally drew the coveted bighorn ram permit. After reading everything she could find on Rock Creek bighorns, she obtained a video showing how to determine if a ram had tro- phy-sized horns. "I studied that video upside down and backwards," she says. On the day Lorenz killed the ram, she stalked a group of three large sheep to within 60 yards. Ail three were facing her. "You have to judge the size of the hole in the curl, and to see how big the hole is, the sheep has to stand sideways," she says. When the middle ram finally turned, Lorenz saw it had the thick beam and extensive curl shed learned to iden- tify from the video. She aimed the rifle and squeezed the trigger. The Boone and Crocken certificate for the ram, which scored 200 Vs, lies on the floor of her living room, next to a reproduction of the horn and a bookcase full of travelogues, topo maps, and hunting jour- nals. The massive full-body mount adorns a wall at the Bob Ward store in Missoula. Last fall Lorenz shot a cow elk in what was her final hunt. A remarkable woman with extraordinary physical gifts, she now has an autoimmune disease that depletes her energy. What's more, macular degeneration has dete- riorated her vision, preventing her from see- ing well enough to shoot an animal without the chance of wounding it. "I can't even see the crosshairs on the scope," she says. "Nope, it's time. Time to hand my rifle off to someone younger." Lorenz tells me she plans to give the gun to her grandnephew. Then she eyeballs me a moment and says, "You know, before I send that gun off to him, I could teach you how to handle it so you could go out in the fall." ^ 32 September— October 2010 ' fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors Montana Outdoors 3 i PULL! Montanans use shooting ranges for target practice, recreation, and competition. Hunters flock to ranges before the start of big game season to checl< the accuracy of their rifles. Above: Helena Trap Range. Right: Shooters check targets at a range near Troy. FWP grants are helping communities create family-friendly shooting range facilities bydavecarty Dale Pfau wants people to know the Fish, Wildlife & Parks grant that Lewistown's Central Montana Shooting Complex received to expand its facilities was spent mainly to benefit fami- lies. "We have roughly 1,000 family mem- berships, which is about 3,500 people," says Pfau, a club member and owner of a local 34 September— October 2010 ' fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors sporting goods business. "That's a lot of people for this area, a lot of kids and their parents out at the complex shooting for recreation. The grant really helped us out." Pfau says the Lewistown community had raised Rmds tor a smaller shooting range. But an initial $75,000 FWP grant, matched hv in-kind services worth more than $300,000 by a local contractor, allowed the club to expand its facility to create shooting features — including a sporting clays course and an outdoor riHe range up to SOO yards — that tar larger cities would be proud to own. According to Kurt Cunningham, who administers the FWP Montana Shooting Range Grant Program, the Lewistown tacilin- is just one of dozens of new ranges built or refurbished statewide in recent years. Mon- tana now has more than 150 shooting ranges, in all but nine ot its S6 counties. Some are simph' outdoor public areas where people can sight in their riHes betore hunting seasim. Others, both public .uid private, offer a vari- er\' ot ranges ot ditlerent distances tor riHes. Mom \N \ shotguns, pistols, muzzleloaders, and archery. Cunningham says shooting ranges are extremely popular in Montana and across the United States. "Hunters use them to practice marksmanship, law enforcement personnel train there, and clubs hold com- petitions," he says. The ranges also provide recreation for families. "They give youth something to do, especially in many small towns where there's just not much else going on," says Cunningham. "Shooting is a life skill. And it's something people can work on if they want to get into competition. "In a lot of small communities in Mon- tana," he adds, "the shooting range is the most popular — and sometimes the only — family recreational facility." Shooting ranges got a big boost in 1999 when the Montana legislature put into law an existing FWP grant program that uses hunting license revenue to help clubs, local governments, and school districts develop and improve their shooting facilities. Lawmakers continue to strongly support the FWP shooting range program, providing it with an additional $300,000 each year in state fiinds. Most of the FWP grants require 50:50 matches from the local community, which can be in the form of cash or donated in-kind work. Like most grants, the FWP money comes with stipulations to ensure it is spent appro- priately. Adele Stenson, a 4-H extension agent who helped the Conrad community apply for a grant, believes the process is well worth the effort. She says the new Pondera Shooting Sports Complex in Conrad includes wheel- chair access on the trap range and a large, heated building that houses archery, air rifle, and pistol ranges. All the ranges are seeing increased use by the local 4-H kids she works with, Stenson says. "It's all about giving the kids around here something flin and reward- ing to do with their time." As in many communities, Conrad-area residents pitched in to help build the new facility. "It was like an old-fashioned barn raising," Cunningham says. Both private and public clubs can apply for FWP grants. Private groups must be nonprofit and allow public use for a "rea- Dave Carty is a freelance writer in Bozeman. FUN AND REWARDING YOUTH SPORT 4-H members preparing for competition work on tlieir air rifle marksmanship at the new Pondera Shooting Sports Complex in Conrad. Montana shooting ranges KaHspell Cut Bank ■ A CI Shelby Chester Havre A ■ Conrad A Scobey ^ Ai>A Thomi^son ^ Choteaux*- ^ ^ '^ Fort Benton " ^ * Poison A ^* . A A AAGreal Falls* AjJMIS: . Slanfofd * ■■• A Lewistown Circle Glendive A«A j^elena Sulphur ^ Phil^sburg Townsend 4H Hamilton A"A Anaconda Roundup ^ ^ 'Miles Crly Baker ** A Dillon - . a"* Big ^Livingston ^ Columbu^ i^T ABA Mm^ m ATBillinqs • Shooting range Montana now has over 150 shooting ranges, at least one in all but nine of the state's 56 counties. FWP grants, composed of hunting license dollars and state funds, help shooting clubs and civic organizations build and improve ranges. For information on shooting ranges near you, visit fwp.mt.gov and search for "shooting ranges." sonable fee," according to state statutes. "Or they can require a membership, but the membership has to be open to anyone who qualifies for a Montana hunting license," says Cunningham. Many private ranges are open to the public for a small fee before the big game hunting season so hunters can sight in their rifles. Shooting clubs across Montana benefit from the state grants. In Glasgow, Valley County Rifle and Pistol Club board member Darrell Morehouse says his group's recendy completed shooting range was sorely needed. "The city had a place to shoot, but it was basically just shooting into a hillside," he says. Using a $20,000 grant from another source and a $48,000 FWP grant matched with donated labor from the community, the club built a covered rifle and pistol range. "The grant from FWP was definitely impor- 36 September-October zoio fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors SHOTS HEARD 'ROUND THE STATE Clockwise from top left: Broadwater Rod and Gun Club, Townsend; 3-D outdoor archery shoot at the Five Valleys Archery Club range, Missoula; aerial view of skeet ranges in Libby; artistic iron sign at the Denton Rod & Gun Club; Lewistown's Central Montana Shooting Complex; sighting in a rifle at the Great Falls Shooting Sports Complex; muzzleloader shooter at the Deep Creek range, near Missoula; indoor shooting lanes at the Greenway Range, Bozeman. DEWTON ROD SL GUN CLUB tant for getting this project off the ground," says Morehouse. "It's a great program." Four hundred miles to the west, Don Clark of the Libby Rod and Gun Club says the group used its FWP grant to create a full- service shooting and education facility. "We had a dream of building a place for hunter education, bowhunter education, and rifle education for the kids," says Clark, club pres- ident. The club received a $43,000 FWP shooting range grant, which, along with donated labor from club members, helped build a 1,250-square-foot education facilit)' for classes and shooting sports activities. "We got it done last October, even though a tew of our volunteers 'deserted' us at the start of the bow season, " he says, laughing. Cunningham says local donations and vol- unteer work is part of what makes the shoot- ing range grant program so successKil. "it's more than just groups using public hmds to fix up recreational facilities," he says. "These are huge community' efforts. People put their heart and soul into planning the range, doing the paperwork to apply for the grants, raising matching funds, and then seeing die projects through to completion. Communities have a great deal of ownership [in the shooting ranges]. Ihev re a real pride and jo\' for a lot ot towns. " ^ Montana Outixh'. WALK A MILE A new FWP project helps hunters and landowners understand each other's perspective on issues related to public hunting on private land, by scott mcmillion MY 'U- *«:-. m.%* *.f-,«^' -*-i m^ -**;■ '*'- k** ^^ .■-r fr*»J *>■ 'J^« 5^y !iil»f' ■'V:>fr. \ ./•^^'^- iStV-- ';?>' '/Y/ jiwgiiiit.gqv/mroutdoors BOOTS Like the wind and the sky, hunting petmeates Montana lifestyles. Dedicated hunters live and breathe hunting. For them, hunting sea- son is the peak of the year. Hunting helps drive Montana's economy. It shapes our culture. It connects generations of families, helps us understand our vast natural world, and fills our freezers. But the future of hunting in Montana depends on the continuing coopera- tion between landowners and hunters. In recent years, finding a place to hunt has become increasingly difficult for many hunters. Gone are the days when a hunter could jump a covey of Huns and pursue them at will, or when a hunter was surprised by a landowner who said, "Sorry, I don't allow hunting." In Montana, as in all of North America, wilcUife belongs to no single person but rather is held in trust by the state for all people — the public. But there's a hitch. Pfivate individuals or businesses own two-thirds of Montana. And when a hunter shows up at the door in an orange vest asking to hunt, landowners have the right to say yes or no. Unfortunately, more of them are saying no. Land ownership patterns are changing, with more property being held for private recreational use. Individuals or groups are leasing many farms and ranches for their own hunting. Some gates are closing because landowners have had bad experiences with hunters, or they've heard of somebody else's bad experience. They might be concerned that hunters will spread weeds, damage roads, or disturb livestock. Maybe they just relish their privacy. They don't have to explain. But decreasing access may soon result in fewer people deciding to hunt, which could mean long-term problems for landowners, wildlife, and Montana's hunt- ing traditions. Public hunting is the most effective way to control big game populations. Unmanaged herds of deer, elk, and other large wildlife can exten- sively damage agricultural lands and natural habitat. And populations can become so concentrated and overabundant they become vulnerable to diseases. Hunters and landowners traditionally have much more in common than they have as differences. Both groups share a keen interest in Montana's land and wildlife, depend on a healthy and sustainable landscape, and work or hunt in the cold, heat, mud, and other features of a natural landscape. So where does that leave hunters and landowners — Montanans who need each other but often fail to understand each other? One step in the right direction would be for hunters and landowners to see the other's perspective, to walk a little in each other's boots. That's what a new on-line program developed by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks aims to do. Named the Hunter-Landowner Stewardship Project, the interactive website is designed to help landowners and hunters discover how much the)' ha\e in com- mon. The site presents ideas and tools each can use to identify acceptable himicr behaviors and build better relationships. "So many of the discussions about public access end up with people throwing grenades at each other, and there is no progress," says F'VCT Education Program manager Thomas Baumeister, who helped design the new project. "We are try- ing to move things along, to give hunters who want to get past all these ideolog- ical barriers something to work on, for them to engage in." Adds Alan Charles, MONIANA Ol ;".<..; ^**. FWP landowner-sportsman coordinator and the project's other architect: "We want to fos- ter better understanding on both sides of the fence." That, in turn, could reduce conflicts over public access and lead to more open gates and stronger bonds between hunters and landowners. Fun and easy to learn Here's how the program works: Participants log onto FWP's website at fwp.mt.gov and click on the "Hunter-Landowner Steward- ship Project " icon under the "For Hunters" category. They are directed to an interactive website containing information on topics such as obtaining permission, retrieving game, hunting ethically, and preventing litter and wildfire. Then there's a voluntary test, where participants take a stab at several mul- tiple-choice and short essay questions. Some questions have no right or wrong answer but are instead meant to encourage contemplation. "[The on-line course] makes you stop and think," says Brett Todd, a landowner, hunter, and outfitter from Big Timber. "I can't imagine anybody who com- pletes it would not have a different mindset about their own personal hunting." Dan Clark, a hunter from Helena, says he already knew much of the material on the website but learned a few new things. For example, he was aware that if a mortally wounded animal crosses a boundary into posted land, Montana law forbids retrieving the carcass without permission. What Clark Scott McMillion, of Livingston, is a freelance writer arid a senior editor for Montana Quarterly. program teaches that hunting land is a privilege, not a right. didn't know is that hunters who find them- selves in such a situation may call a game warden and ask him or her to help arrange permission to retrieve the animal. Charles notes that hunting and agricul- ture have much in common, such as out- doors skills, connections with animals, and habitat protection. But as the nation becomes more urbanized, more and more hunters lack rural backgrounds that in years past helped them understand the concerns of landowners. "At the same time, farmers and ranchers may not know about easy ways they can reduce problems associated with allowing public hunting," he says. "This new project gives both hunters and landowners information they will find beneficial." Hunters are reminded to not litter, keep their dogs from bothering landowners, and prevent the spread of weeds. The course also has tips on how they can help landowners, such as by offering to report trespassers or fires. For Montana landowners, the website offers advice on how to handle permission seekers, manage himter numbers, and make ranch reg- ulations clearly under- stood. "It's easier for hunters to follow the rules when they know what they are," Charles says. Other dps include mowing parking areas to routes to reduce road damage, and marking gates that need to remain open or closed. Those who complete the course earn a certificate, bumper sticker, and cap verifying their participation. "If you see those caps out there, you know the hunters took the time to complete the course," says Charles. The headache season For many himters, fall is the highlight of the year. For landowners, hunting season can mean the annual return of old friends fi-om town and out of state, but it can also cause headaches. Mac White, of Two Dot, provides about 800 hunter-days of use on his sprawling central Montana ranch. "Every year, I get hundreds of people knocking on my door, wanting to hunt," White says. He tries to manage the numbers and keep people spread out, and he has rules he expects hunters to obey. For example, hunter sign-in is between 7 a.m. and 9:30 a.m.; during the rest of the day. White has a ranch to run. And starting this fall, people who want to hunt on his ranch need to show him a Stewardship Project certificate. "It's a way to filter the numbers a little bit," White says. "If they don't want to spend the time to get the cer- tificate, they can hunt elsewhere." Chuck Hyatt, a hunter education instruc- tor from Circle, says that even in his isolated part of the state there is increasingly less access to private land as property changes hands. His two young sons have already completed the Hunter-Landowner Steward- ship Project course, and he plans to use it in his hunter ed classes. He's hoping his stu- dents will also take the project's main mes- sages home to their parents. "A lot of people take it for granted, but it's a privilege to go out there and hunt on private land," Hyatt says. "We need to open the lines of commu- nication, and this program sends a message that hunters are trying." ™ Hiinterln landowner reduce fire danger, desig- nating open and closed STEWARDSHIP PROJECT 40 September-C'. Iv'Bfr 2010 fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors Brown trotft ■TDOORS Salmo trutti By Tom Dickson " ts hard enough being a hunter this time oFyeaf, what with archery, backcountry - deer and elk, pronghorn, waterfowl, and upland bird seasons opening one after another. But now is also when big browns become especially aggressive and wildly attack streamers. Hard as it might be, espe- cially for my sad-eyed springer spaniel, 1 sometimes forego hunting a few days each hill to cast Woolly Buggers at surly browns lurking along riverbanks. ORIGINS Unlike native bull, cutthroat, and redband trout, browns first arrived in the West during the late 1 800s as part of federal stocking pro- grams. The fish were imported from Germany and Scotland's Loch Leven. (Some old-timers still refer to them as German browns or Loch Leven browns.) Brown trout were stocked in waters ol Yellowstone National Park, from which they migrated north along the Yellowstone River into Montana. State fisheries managers later began aggressive stocking efforts in other rivers and lakes. Montana stopped stocking most rivers in the early 1970s after learning that the trout were naturally self-sustaining. RANGE Brown trout live in central and southwestern Montana in valley strearns and rivers such as the Madison and Big Hole as well as in ToDi Dichoii is editor o/"Montana Outdoors. many reservoirs and lakes. They usually coexist with rainbow trout. Because browns can survive in warmer, murkier water, they are often more abundant than rainbows far- ther downstream, such as below Saint Xavier on the Bighorn. MATING SEASON Unlike spring-spawning cutthroats and rain- bows, browns — along with bull trout and brookies — spawn in fall. During spawning season, the male's lower jaw develops a hook at the tip, called a kype, which fits into a groove that forms in the upper jaw. Biologists think males use their kype as a weapon to fight off rival males; it may also attract females, like a bull elk's antlers or a sage-grouses fanned tail. IDENTIFICATION A brown trout has an olive back, and the fish's golden sides, often described as buttery colored, are coveied with black and red spots, often with pale halos. INTELLIGENCE" Any angler knows that browns are harder to catch than other trout species. But are they smarter? According to trout biology guru Robert J. Behnke, the brown's brain is no larger or otherwise different from those of other trout. He speculates that the answer lies in the brown trout's aversion to light and adaptation to murkier water. "The ret- ina... is better adapted to optimally function in dim light," he wrote in a 1986 column in Trout magazine. "Thus, browns are more oriented to dense cover and shaded areas such as deep undercut banks, and more prone to nocturnal feeding." That's not to say browns can't be caught at noon on sunny days out in the open. But in such conditions it's more likely that a rain- bow or cutthroat trout will take your fly than a brown. Once browns reach 14 inches or so, they begin eating fish as well as aquatic insects. This protein boost allows them to reach large sizes in many rivers. For instance, the trout silhouettes lining the wall of Dan Bailey's Fly Shop in Livingston attest to the massive browns caught on the Yellowstone. It's rare for trout to live long enough to top 10 pounds. They usually die of old age after lour or five years, though a lew can survive ten years or more. Brown trout grow larger in lakes than in rivers. Montana's state record is a 29-pounder caught in Wade Lake in 1966. CONSERVATION Though they have displaced native cutthroat trout and arctic grayling in .some waters, brown trout are extremely popular with anglers. The best way to conserve brown trout is by ensuring the fish have adequate stream flows, cool water, slit-free spawning gravel, and abundant habitat such asppcjU, riffles, and overhead cover. Ilk PARTING SHOT 4^i ' m^ 4 # ^