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Coast.Eng Fes. Ctr. MR 81-4

Movable-Bed Laboratory Experiments Comparing Radiation Stress and Energy Flux Factor as Predictors

of Longshore Transport Rate

by Philip Vitale

MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 81-4 APRIL 1981

WHO! DOCUMENT COLLECTION ,

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Approved for public release; distribution unlimited.

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Me oi-4¢ hae!

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products. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless

so designated by other authorized documents.

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READ INSTRUCTIONS REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE BERORHICOMEDEINGIRORM REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER “MR 81-4

4’. TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED MOVABLE-BED LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS COMPARING Miscellaneous Report

RADIATION STRESS AND ENERGY FLUX FACTOR AS

PREDICTORS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE

PERFORMING ORG. REPORT NUMBER

6.

7. AUTHOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s)

Philip Vitale

10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS

D31193

REPORT DATE april 1981

Siusiee OF PAGES

PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS Department of the Army

Coastal Engineering Reserch Center (CERRE-CS) Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060

Gs

11. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS

Department of the Army

Coastal Engineering Research Center

Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 Ta. MONITORING AGENCY NAME & ADDRESS(if different from Controlling Office)

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UNCLASSIFIED

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Approved for public release, distribution unlimited.

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. KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number)

Energy flux Movable-bed experiments Longshore transport rate Radiation stress

ABSTRACT (Continue on reverse side if necesaary and identify by block number)

The results of three-dimensional movable-bed laboratory tests are used to empirically relate the longshore sediment transport rate to the radiation stress and the longshore energy flux factor. Both correlate equally well with the longshore transport rate, producing correlation coefficient squared values of approximately 0.70. The surf similarity parameter also shows a strong influence on the longshore transport rate.

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PREFACE

This report is published to provide coastal engineers insight into the important coastal process of longshore transport along sandy beaches by pre- senting the results of three-dimensional movable-bed laboratory tests. It is hoped that future studies will expand on the analyses of the data in this report. The report was prepared under the nearshore sediment transport research program of the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC).

The report was written by Philip Vitale, Hydraulic Engineer, under the general supervision of Dre ReM. Sorensen, Chief, Coastal Processes and Structures Branch, Research Division.

The author acknowledges C. Galvin, RP. Savage, and RP. Stafford for their assistance and advice in the design and operation of the experiment, and M.S. Bartolomei, SL. Douglas, Be Keely, M. Koenig, MW. leffler, J.G. Tingler, J. Sullivan, K.P. Zirkle, and, in particular, L.O. Tornese for their help in collecting and analyzing the data.

Comments on this publication are invited.

Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, ggth Congress, approved 7 November 1963.

f/ : ED E. WISHOP

Colonel, Corps of Engineers Commander and Director

IV

VI

VIL

APPENDIX A

B C D E F

CONTENTS

CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI)ececcsccccccces SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS. ccccccccccc cc ccc ccc cc cre ceo cece cece cece INTRODUCTLONec coccccccccec ccc ccc ccc ecco ces c cero ccc e ere eee oreo oeseee

EMPIRICAL RELATIONSccccccccccccccccccccevccc ccc ccc ccc ccc cer eccee le Momentum Fluxccccceccccccccc cc ccc ce cccceccvccccvcc cece cceee 2. Energy Fluxccccccccccccccccccccccccccc ccc ccc coer eeecccce 3. Longshore Transport Rate€ecccccccccccccccccccccccccccceccccee 4. Empirical RelationSeccccccccccccccccccccccccccccvcccccsscee 5. Surf Similarity ParameteTrececcecccccccccecccccvccccccccccce

EXPERIMENTAL SETUPc cccccccccccc ccc ccc cccv ccc ccs ccccc ces ccc ccccee 1. Basin Layouteccccccccccccccccccccccccceccccccccccceccccccce 2. GENETACOLSecccceccecccccccccceccecvccccvccccv esse vcccecccccee 3. Sand—Moving SysteMeccccceccccccccsvccccccvccccecvccccccccce Ae IMStrumMentSeccecceccccccccrcccccccceccccccccceseccccccevcccce 5e Dye Injectionecccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccceevecccccce

66 Sand SUZCeccvccvccccccccecc ccc ec cece sce eee rece cee eee ee ele elec

EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE ccccccccccccccccccccrccc cc vcc cc cv ccc cc cecce le Hourly Cyclecccccccccccccccccscvccccccccccsvccceersccccccee 2. Daily Cyclecocccccccccccccccccccscccccccccccccccccccecveccce 3. Test Cycleccccccccccccccceccccccccscccecccccccccveccccceece

4e Range of VariableSecccccccccccccccc cre cc vec c ccc eevcee ce ecce

DATAccccccccccccc ccc ccc cece cove eer eer eos eveeeseoooce core eeeeee 1. Hourly and Daily Data in Appendix Acccccccccccccccccccccccs 2. Summary Data Tablecccccccecccccccccccccccccccccccecccccccce 3. Survey Dataccocceccccccccccccccscccscscccccccccecccccccccece

4. Overhead PHOCOScecccceccccc ccc ccc cere esse sec er eereece eee leee®

DATA ANALYSIS cccccccccc ccc cc cccccccccccccscesccccscecceccccccces 1. Calculation of Sy wc c ccc cc cccccccccc cece ccc cccsccecccescces 2. Calculation of Poprrsescecrssccccccccccccecccccccccccccccccs 3. Calculation Of Ecccccccvcccccccvcccccccceccccccccevcccccvccs 4. Special TestScccccccccccccccccccccsccccccccccccccssecscecce 5. Daily Cycle GraphsSecccccccccccccccccccccccccceececsecreccce 6. Test Cycle GraphSecocccccscccccccccccccccccccccsscceccccces 7. Surf Similarity Relationeccccccccccccccccccccccccvceccccoece 8. Comparison to Past Datdcccccccccccccccccccccccccccvccceccce

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS ec ccoccccccccc ccc ccc crc cc ccc eres ese c cee e eee LITERATURE CITEDc ccc ccc cc ccc ccc creer sec ccc cere ere e eee core eo ene eee

HOURLY AND DAILY DATAcccccccccccccccvccccscvcececccccecesecveccce BEACH SURVEY DATAcccoccccccccccccccevccccccccccccce sce sve seccnce PLOTTED BEACH PROFILES. ccccccccccccccccccccvecccecececccesevcecce SELECTED BREAKER BAR AND WATERLINE PHOTOS.ccccccccccccccccocccce HOURLY CYCLE CALCULATIONS. ccccccccccccccecccccrcccvecevescseccce DAILY CYCLE CALCULATIONS. cccccccccccccvcvcccccccccccccvesecesccce

Page 7

CONTENTS--—Continued

TABLES

Locations of overhead cameras mounted on the catwalkececccccccccccccce Locations of dye injection by test numberececceccecccccccccccceccccccce Test cycle variables and datacccecccccccccrcccscccccccccccccvsccccccce Example of hourly and daily data tables in Appendix Acccecccccccccccce Test cycle calculationSerccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc ccc cccvc0cvce Comparisons of tests 1 and 2ecccccccccccccccccccccccvcccccccccecccccce Daily cycle statisSticSecccccccccccccccccccccvecccscecccccccccccccccecce Test cycle StatisSticSeccceccccccsccccccccrvcccccccccccccccceccccercccos

FIGURES

Coordinate system for momentum flux derivatioMmeccecccccccccccccceeccce Diagram of test basin SetuPecccrccccccccccccccccccsceccccceccccccccccce Photo of test baSin SeEtUPecccccccccccccccccccscccccccsccccccccccccceces Photo Of Sand traPpoccccccccccecccrccccccccccerccccccccccccccc cc ccccccce

Diagram of diffraction analysis used to determine the alongshore length of the test DEaACN ec cccccccccccccccocccccecoeeeeeeccocccceeeeeeceee

Shore-normal profile of the test beach, sand trap, concrete aprons, and adjacent TuUbbillGlicccccccccccceee ccc ecececccceeeeeeececccccceeeceeee

Coordinate system used for test beach with locations of wave gageSece. Diagram of EductOreccecccccccccccccccccccccccccceccccccccccccccsccccee Photo of weighing StatioNececcccccccccrcccccccccvccveseescccssccccvcce Diagram of sand feedereceeccccccccccccccccccccccccccccvcccccecececcces Photo of sand feederececececccceccvevevcccccvevesccccccccccccccve cece Diagram of complete sand-moving SySteMeccceecccsceccceecceecccecsccccce Size distribution of sand used for all teStSececccccccccecccccscccccoce

Schematic diagram of the interrelationship of the three experimental CYCLESecccccccccccccccccveccvccccesc veer ecveecs 2000000000

Example of overhead PHOCOccccccccecccccccccccccccecsveseccccccsccscccce

Page 24

25 32 34 36 38 38

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18

19

19 20 22 (o> 23 23 24

25

26

27

16

17

18

19

20

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22

23

24

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26

27

28

CONTENTS

F IGURES--Continued

Example of breaking Waveecccccecccccccccccccccccccccccecccccccceccccccce Example of strip-chart wave recordecrceccccceccccccccccccccccccccccccsccce Example of surf zone PphotOSececcccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccece Example series of drainage photOSecccccccecccrcccccccccccccccccceccccce Example of bed-form photOcececccceccccccccccccceccccccccccccccecccccccce

Determination of beach slope used to calculate the surf similarity PALTaAMETECTececeecceesccccrccceeescccvsecccsvrescssccescescecccccccce

Relation between longshore transport rate, lI», and radiation stress, Sxy? using daily cycle dataccccccccccccccccccccccceccccccccce

Relation between longshore transport rate, I,, and longshore energy flux factor, Py,, using daily cycle datacceocccccccccccccccccce

Relation between longshore transport rate, I,y, and radiation

stress, Sxy» using test cycle datacccccccccccccccccecsccccccvcccvcccce

Relation between longshore transport rate, I,, and longshore energy flux factor, Pp,, using test cycle datacccccccccccccccccccccce

Relation between K, and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle iaitlaleticlctevel clelel clelelerelelel el cleteleleletelele/elellelel ele cjclcleloleleielelelorerelotolore

Relation between K. and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle ACLAcccc eve ccc eee vrec cesses LF2PFCFFECLFFFFFF2FFLOO OOO LOOOOe

Comparison of data in this report to past reports, using SPM

Figure Ly 33 Gicte: clelelolaleleleletelelele) cloleleveelelcioleieiclelelele clejsleleclelele ellelelecreielelelelelelelefelolelere

Page 27

27 29 30

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39

40

41

42

43

43

44

CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT

U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to metric (SIL) units as follows:

inches Ti BSc hi a ae MLS 2054 centimeters square inches 62452 square centimeters cubic inches 16.39 cubic centimeters feet 30.48 centimeters 0.3048 meters square feet 0.0929 square meters cubic feet 0.0283 cubic meters yards 0.9144 meters Square yards 0.836 square meters cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters miles 1.6093 kilometers square miles 259.0 hectares knots 1.852 kilometers per hour acres 0.4047 hectares foot-pounds 1.3558 newton meters aL esas We O97 1073 kilograms per square centimeter ounces 28235 grams pounds 453.6 grams 0.4536 kilograms ton, long 1.0160 metric tons ton, short 0.9072 metric tons degrees (angle) 0.01745 radians Fahrenheit degrees 5/9 Celsius degrees or Kelvins!

oo——eeeaeaeaSEaoamaoaoSaSoaoaoaoaoaoaoaaBa]aaEeEaEEEEeEEeEeEESESEESEeESSESESESESESESESESESESSESESEEEEEEESSESESSESSESESaEaSaESESESESEEESEESSaaSaaaEEEEEeE——— 1To obtain Celsius (C) temperature readings from Fahrenheit (F) readings, use formula: C = (5/9) (F -32). To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula: K = (5/9) (F -32) + 273.15.

SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS ratio of sand volume to total volume of a sand deposit subscript for breaker

wave phase velocity

wave group velocity

water depth

median sand size

energy density

flux of wave energy per alongshore distance

acceleration of gravity

wave height

average wave height

root-mean-square wave height

significant wave height

longshore transport rate in immersed weight per unit time subscript for any point seaward of breaker zone

empirical coefficient relating Ip to Po)

empirical coefficient relation Ip to Sxy wave number = 2n/L

wavelength

Latilowote Can tou

&

subscript for deepwater condition

energy flux term

longshore energy flux factor as used in this report longshore energy flux factor as used in the SPM longshore transport rate in volume per unit time

range of coordinate system defined in Figure 7

SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS--Continued

correlation coefficient

station of coordinate system defined in Figure 7

radiation stress component (flux of y-momentum in x-direction)

wave

time

period

onshore component of water particle velocity

alongshore component of water particle velocity

coordinate in onshore direction

coord coord angle angle angle water wave surf surf mass

mass

inate in alongshore direction

inate in vertical direction

between wave crest and shoreline

between wave generator and shoreline

of beach slope with horizontal

surface elevation

phase

similarity similarity density of

density of

parameter as used in this report parameter as used in Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) water

sand

angular frequency of wave = 2n/T

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MOVABLE-BED LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS COMPARING RADIATION STRESS AND ENERGY FLUX FACTOR AS PREDICTORS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE

by Phtltp Vitale

I. INTRODUCTION

Three-dimensional movable-bed laboratory tests were conducted to compare radiation stress and energy flux factor as predictors of the longshore sedi- ment transport rate. The tests were performed in the U.S. Army Coastal Engi- neering Research Center's (CERC) Shore Processes Test Basin (SPTB). This report presents derivations ‘of the radiation stress and the energy flux factor, documents the experimental setup and procedure, tabulates most of the data, and performs the data analyses. Many photos were taken during the tests; however, only a few were used in the report. The complete set of test photos is available from CERC's Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC).

II. EMPIRICAL RELATIONS

The longshore transport data are related empirically to the two expres- sions representing wave conditions. One, radiation stress, is based on momen- tum flux, the other on energy flux. An important concept which is also used in the data analyses is the surf similarity parameter.

1. Momentum Flux.

The dependent variable studied here is the longshore transport rate caused by waves approaching the beach; therefore, the consequential momentum term is the onshore flux of alongshore momentum. The derivation of the term follows Longuet-Higgins (1970) which applies the concept of wave momentum flux to the generation of longshore currents.

The coordinate system used is shown in Figure 1. The y-axis is along the shoreline, the x-axis is normal to the shoreline and positive shoreward, and the z-axis originates at the stillwater level and is positive upward. Using this system, the onshore flux of alongshore momentum is the flux of y-momentum in the x-direction, S,.. This term is one component of what is commonly called the radiation stress tensor.

x Shoreline

Figure 1. Coordinate system for momentum flux derivation.

ll

According to small-amplitude wave theory, the components of the water particle velocity in the x- and y-directions for a wave traveling at an angle, a, to the shoreline (Fig. 1) are, respectively,

_H gT cosh [k(z + d)] WS a: —— meOSheaunmcon” cosa (1) _H gT cosh [k(z + d)] ‘ Yay e EEE cos@ sina (2) where H = wave height g = acceleration of gravity T = wave period L = wavelength d = water depth k = wave number 8 = wave phase. The last two terms are defined as 27 Ge cli and 6 = kx - ot

where t is time, and w the wave angular frequency

27 wo =—

Th

The y-momentum (alongshore momentum) per unit volume is pv where p is the water mass densitye The flux of this momentum in the x-direction (onshore) per unit alongshore distance and unit water depth is pvue Inte- grating over the water column and averaging over time produce the mean along- shore momentum flux in the x-direction per unit alongshore distance

n

oy = _ | dz (3)

where the overbar denotes the mean with respect to time and n the water surface elevation. Substituting equations (1) and (2) into (3) and dropping terms of higher than second order produce

sina (4)

S = CS cosa) C

xy

12

where C is the wave phase velocity, C the wave group velocity, and E

the wave energy density © 2 pgH = rms Re (5) where H is the root-mean-square (rms) wave height. The term in paren-

theses in equation (4) is the flux of wave energy per alongshore distance, F,, assuming straight and parallel bathymetric contours. When zero wave energy dissipation is assumed,

F = EC_ cosa = constant (6) x &

In this report, dissipation is assumed to be zero up to the breaker zone; therefore, F is constant from deep water to the breaker zone. Since the ratio of sina to C is constant due to Snell's law, equation (4), which represents the alongshore wave momentum entering the surf zone, is constant seaward of the breaker zone.

Equation (4) can be revised for application of monochromatic waves, as in this reporte For such wave conditions, the average wave height, H, measured during the tests (and discussed later in Section IV) is equal to H.j.- By rewriting equation (4),

og sina Chey = 8 a cosa} ——— (7) S is now defined for use with laboratory monochromatic wave data. Note

that equation (4) is valid for any wave condition; equation (7) is valid only for conditions where H equals Hems*

2. Energy Flux.

In literature, the longshore transport rate has been empirically related most frequently to a term found by multiplying both sides of equation (4) by the wave phase velocity, C, to yield

Bye (EC, cosa) sina (8)

Unlike Sy. 5 Po is not constant seaward of the breaker line; therefore, specifying where P, is being calculated is necessary. This report, follow- ing convention, determines Pp at the breaker line,

Pie (EC, cosa), sina, (9)

representing the value of Pp, at the point closest to where the longshore transport is occurring. The subscript b denotes breaker values. MThe term

13

in parentheses in equation (9) has been shown to be constant (see eq. 6) seaward of the breaker line; therefore, subscript b may be replaced by i which represents any point seaward of the breaker line. Making this change,

using. equation (5), and letting Hims equal H for monochromatic waves, equation (9) becomes

2 = (2gH” We Pop ( 8 oy cosa i sino, (10)

The Shore Protection Manual (SPM) (U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977) provides a term similar to Pe, except that the wave height used is the significant height, H,- The term, called the longshore energy flux factor, is defined as

ipa ) P = 3 C cosa sina b (11)

Pp, is derived in Galvin and Schweppe (1980). The relationship between

Here and H, has been shown in Longuet-Higgins (1952) to be

2 = 972 Hei yeh (12)

assuming a Rayleigh distribution of wave heights as well as a number of other conditions. Therefore,

P

P ns Ni 2 aD (13)

Since Po, and P are essentially the same terms, this report uses the SPM terminology and refers to Pp} as the longshore energy flux factor.

3. Longshore Transport Rate.

The longshore transport rate, Q, given in the SPM in units of volume per unit time, is also commonly shown as_ I with units of immersed weight per unit time. The relationship between the two is

Mn (Go) 119) E24 (14)

where p, is the mass density of sand and a" the ratio of sand volume to total volume of a sand deposit, which takes into account the sand porosity. For discussions of equation (14), see Komar and Inman (1970) and Galvin (1979). Since the laboratory tests described here measured I, directly, this term is used in most of the data analysis.

14

4. Empirical Relations.

The expressions derived in the preceding paragraphs are used to set up the following empirical relations

Tp = KP eb (15) and

iy = athe (16) where K and K, are coefficients to be determined from the test data in this report.

Equation (15) is based on the concept that the work done in moving the sand alongshore is proportional to the energy which approaches the beach. The units are consistent and K is dimensionless.

Equation (16) is based on the concept that the sand transported alongshore depends on the alongshore force exerted by the wave motion on the bed inside the surf zone. By the equation of motion, this force is related to the change of momentum inside the surf zonee The alongshore momentum, S,., enters the surf zone through the breaker line but cannot exit through ‘the shoreline boundary. Therefore, the change in alongshore momentum is Sxy and equation (16) results. K, has dimensions of length over time.

5- Surf Similarity Parameter.

Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) showed that K and K, are dependent upon the surf similarity parameter,

Boe _tan B (17)

1/2 (H,/L,)

in which tan 8 is the beach slope, Hp the breaker height, and Ly the deepwater (d/L > 1/2) wavelength. Ep reflects variations in beach shape, breaker type, and rate of energy dissipation. Using the results of laboratory tests, the following relationships were found by Kamphuis and Readshaw

K P

Ks OsO8Es foe Oath KB, < 1025 (19)

rd

0-7E, oie Wolk K BK hod (18)

For values of €&, higher than the upper limits, Kp and K, become inde- pendent of €})-

The surf similarity parameter is evaluated in this report to determine its effect on the longshore transport rate.

III. EXPERIMENTAL SETUP

This section discusses the setup in the SPTB (Figs. 2 and 3) and describes the wave generators, wave gages, and cameras and their positions. Also dis- cussed are the sand-moving system, the method for measuring the longshore current velocity, and the size distribution of the sand used in the experi- ment. The design of the setup was based in large part on Fairchild (1970).

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Wave Generafors

Figure 3. Photo of test basin setup.

1. Basin Layout.

A diagram of the basin setup is shown in Figure 2. The basin is 45.72 meters long, 30.48 meters wide, and 1.22 meters deep. The alongshore and the shore-normal directions of the sand beach were 7.62 and 11.45 meters, respec tively. The backbeach was 3.05 meters in the shore-normal direction, but it was not part of the test beach.

Immediately downdrift of the beach was the sand trap, 0.91 meter wide and 12.7 centimeters deep (Fige 4), used to catch the longshore transporte

Concrete aprons, 4.57 meters in the alongshore direction, were located on the downdrift side of the sand trap and on the updrift side of the beach. The updrift apron provided enough distance for the longshore current to develop between the updrift training wall and the beach. This phenomenon is discussed in Galvin and Eagleson (1965). The downdrift apron served two purposes-——one as a platform for depositing the longshore transport that escaped the trap, the other as a surface on which the waves traveled to diminish diffraction effects since no downdrift training walls were used.

The major limitation in the experimental planning was the size of the SPTB, which permitted three wave generators, each 6.10 meters long, to be linked together and leave enough room to be rotated through various angles to the beach. The other limitation was the decision not to use downdrift train- ing walls due to the wave reflection problem. When downdrift training walls are used, the wave energy, which is reflected off the beach at an angle in the downdrift direction, strikes the downdrift wall and is reflected back toward the updrift direction. The energy is then reflected by the updrift wall and the process repeats. The reflected wave energy is being trapped within the

17

’ Reference. ~~

Figure 4. Photo of sand trap.

two walls; this produces some complicated wave variability problems (eceg., see Fairchild, 1970). With no downdrift training walls, the reflected wave energy moves away from the beach area into the outer parts of the test basin where most of it is eventually dissipated by the rubble slope along the edge of the basin (Fig. 2). This, however, creates a problem with wave diffrac- tion. The energy of the wave leaving the generator spreads laterally into still water and gradually decreases the wave height toward the updrift end of the wave crest.

To minimize the decrease in wave height over the test beach, it was designed using the diffraction diagram for a wave traveling past a semi- infinite breakwater from Figure 2-33 of the SPM. The period and angle used in the diffraction analysis were 3 seconds and 10°, respectively, since these values produced the maximum diffraction closest to the beach. The spreading of wave energy into the shadow of a breakwater is analogous to the spreading of wave energy into the area of the test basin downdrift of the generators. The diagram (Fig. 5) indicated that the alongshore length of the beach should be 7.62 meters. Most of the diffraction-caused decrease in wave height occurs over the downdrift concrete apron.

Rubble, ranging in size from 7.62 to 15.24 centimeters, was placed at several locations in the basin to absorb wave energy and provide gradual slopes between the concrete aprons and the basin floor. The beach, sand traps, concrete aprons, and adjacent rubble were all built to the same shore- normal profile (Fig. 6). This profile was based on Chesnutt's (1978) long- term two-dimensional tests in which waves were run onto a sand beach to determine profile response. After superposing several of Chesnutt's (1978)

18

Distance Below SWL (m)

Diffraction Coefficient

Wave Used for Analysis

T=3.00s L=7.50m Training Wall

Wave Generator

Figure 5. Diagram of diffraction analysis used to determine the alongshore length of the test beach.

(0.00, 0.305 )

Qe A we Se oe UCROSOF0001) Ska EA hn Roa SWS Bee

(4.19,0.177)

(6.58, 0.253)

Backbeach

Test Beach

(11.46 ,0.710)

ESO Weal) O IeMiee wena S IGA ud Sa TG Weer Bk Oe chOy Niles ie Station (m)

Figure 6. Shore-normal profile of the test beach, sand trap, concrete aprons, and adjacent rubble.

19

profiles run for 80 hours or more with wave periods similar to those used in this experiment, the shore-normal profile in Figure 6 was drawn as a compro- mise or average through the superposed profiles. This profile was used to lessen the onshore-offshore adjustment of the beach.

Figure 7 shows the coordinate system used for the test beache The origin is at the updrift, shoreward corner of the beach. Ranges (in meters) are along the alongshore axis, and stations (in meters) along the shore-normal axis. Any point on the beach, or in the basin, can be described by a range- station pair.

Range (m) 4

14 12 10 8 6 2 0 -2 -4 -6

Rubble Backbeach

Test Beach Updrift Concrete Apron

Station (m)

Downadrift Concrete Apron

| R 3.80, S Breaker Line) Tests 12-15

@ Gage 4A (R 3.80,5 6.00) Tests 5-I1°

Sand Trap

Gage 3 (R 3.80, $9.00) MY Tests 5-15 80 60 40 20 0 12 Water Depth (cm) ¢ A Gage 2 Gage (R 3.80, $12.50) (R0.00, $12.50) All Tests All Tests

Figure 7. Coordinate system used for test beach with locations of wave gages (R = range, S = station).

2. Generators.

The three piston-type 6-10 meter-long generators used in this experiment produced only monochromatic waves and are discussed in Stafford and Chesnutt (1977). The generators were set at four different angles--0°, 10°, 20°, and 30°--to the beach during the experimente For each setting, an updrift train- ing wall was built from the generator to the 1-foot depth. This allowed circulation past the wall to feed the longshore current. Figure 2 shows the setup of the four generators and training wall.

For the 10° and 20° tests, the training wall was curved to allow for wave refraction. However, since the wall stopped at the l-foot depth, the curves

20

were small and considered not worth the construction effort. Therefore, the curve for the 30° tests was deleted and a straight training wall was used.

3. Sand-Moving System.

As the waves approached the beach at an angle, the sand moved in the downdrift directione Most of it deposited in the sand trape The sand which escaped the trap deposited either on the downdrift concrete apron or beyond the apron and rubble (covered to keep sand from being lost within it) onto the basin floor. This area is shown in Figure 2 as the supplementary deposition area. Although separate measurements of the sand deposited in each area were not taken, it is estimated that 80 to 95 percent of the longshore transport fell into the trap. The greater the transport rate and the suspended sedi- ment, the greater was the amount of sand escaping the sand trap.

The trap was cleaned continually during a test using an eductor attached to a small centrifugal pump. Water was pumped through the eductor at high speed, creating a suction to pick up the sand (Fig. 8). The sand was pumped to the weighing station (Fig. 9), deposited in one of two bins, and weighed submerged. When divided by the appropriate time period, the value became the immersed weight longshore transport rate.

After the weighing, the sand was pumped, using another eductor, into a sand feeder. The sand feeder is a vertical cylinder open at both ends in which sand is introduced through the top and removed by waves through the bottom. A diagram and a photo of the feeder are given in Figures 10 and ll. The primary advantage of the feeder is that it permits waves to control the amount of sand introduced onto the beach. Savage (1961) discusses the feeder and its development.

In summary, the complete sand-moving system (Fig- 12) included the following:

(a) A sand trap, a downdrift concrete apron, and a downdrift deposition area which trapped the sand;

(b) a downdrift eductor-pump combination which moved the trapped sand to the weighing station;

(c) a weighing station which weighed the amount of sand moved;

(d) an updrift eductor-pump combination which moved the sand from the weighing station to the sand feeder; and

(e) a sand feeder which redeposited the sand onto the beach.

4. Instruments.

Wave heights were measured using parallel-wire wave gages (see Fig. 7). Gages 1 and 2, located seaward of the toe of the beach, were used for all 15 tests. Gage 3, located over the beach, was used for tests 5 to 15. Gage 4A, located close to the breaker line, was used for tests 5 to 1l. Beginning with test 12 for the remainder of the tests, gage 4A was adjusted to measure the breaker height and then renamed gage 4B.

21

@ Sand and Water Mixture from Sand Trap or Weighing Station Pulled in by Vacuum

@ OUTPUT: Sand and Water Mixture to Weighing Station or Sand

Feeder () INPUT: Clear Water from

Centrifugal Pump

=— --- =-=

eS ss @) High-Speed vet S—-==/ } Creates Vacuum <———| I. &a— :

(I

= =. = =-— >=

Figure 8. Diagram of eductor.

Figure 9. Photo of weighing station.

22

10joatu} ¢

*

*jepesy pues jo 070g

4 NNT HE

* TT ean3sta

—

— _j—. *

BEC EE os

SRE

*lapeey pues jo weasel

ysoms fq yo0ag 0}U0 pud 49

PaAodw puos

300}4 UISOg 0} yo0ag ybnosy) puayx3 sa

uo}}01S Buiybiam WOJ} MO}JUT J2{0M PUD puos

°OT 2an3Ty

(4240M Ajulow ) uo!y04S Buiybiam 0} usNjay MO}}J9AQ

pay M0} }13AQ

23

® Sond is Moved to Weighing Station ~,

Sand Beach

Concrete Apron

Concrete

Ol Sand is

Moved fo Sand Feeder

Feeder Redeposits Sand Onto Beach

@ Waves Breok and Transport Sand Alongshore

we “aet

Sand Deposits in Sond Trap

@ Wove Generators Drive Waves at Angle to Beach

Figure 12. Diagram of complete sand-moving system.

Two cameras were mounted over the beach on the catwalk of the SPTB. One was a view camera with an adapter for taking 4- by 5-inch Polaroid black-and- white photos, and the other a standard 35-millimeter camera. The locations of the cameras are given in Table l.

Other instruments used in the tests include standard hydraulic scales for weighing the sand, and a standard level and rod for surveying the beach after each teste

Table 1. Locations of overhead cameras mounted on the catwalk.

View 35-mm (m) (m)

Range Station

Elevation above SWL

laccurate only to + 0.1 meter.

24

5- Dye Injection.

Longshore current velocities for tests 5 to 15 were measured by injecting dye into the surf zone through a hose which ran from the sand feeder to a small stake in the surf zone. Dye was poured by hand into the top of the hose. Table 2 gives the locations of the dye injection by test numbers. The change in location of the stake in tests 7 to 10 was a procedural error and not planned for a special purposee The dye injection procedure is discussed in detail in the next section.

Table 2. Locations of dye injection by test number.

Test Nos. | Dye injected Dye timed Dye timed | Timed distance at range from range traveled

(m)

Bistand 6 | 7 EO INO) ll to 15

6. Sand Size.

Figure 13 shows the size distribution of the sand used for all 15 tests. The median diameter was 0.22 millimeter. The geometric standard deviation is defined as

d 1/2 “3 aa (20)

where djg and dg, are the sand sizes at which 16 and 84 percent, respec— tively, of the sample is coarser. The value of for the sand used was 1.22. Figure 13 indicates that the sand was well ore

Screen Opening (mm)

0.1 0.0! 0.050102 05 § 2 5 10 30 40 50 60 70 00 ie 95 : 99 99.0 99.9 miert Coorser

Figure 13. Size distribution of sand used for all tests.

25

IVe EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE

Each test was composed of three major data collection cycles: an hourly cycle, a daily cycle, and a test cycle. For example, wave heights were measured every hour (hourly cycle), water temperature was measured twice a day (daily cycle), and beach surveys were taken at the end of each test (test cycle). The typical test schedule was 4 hourly cycles daily for 6 days for a total of 24 run-hours per test. Tests 1 and 2, as discussed later, were exceptions to this schedule. Figure 14 is a schematic diagram of the inter- relationship of the three cycles. Since waves were run every other day, a complete test took about 3 weeks.

24-HOUR COMPLETE TEST CYCLE es oe ee Ol ee

7

S Depth Recorded.

1 HOUR CYCLE ~\. —=——-Sand Continually Cleaned

Beoch Photo ol XX Out of Trap ond Weighed. d.

Breaker Photo Wove Height Measur Longshore Current Measured.

Woter Depth Corrected to 0.71 m,

7 SAX 7 ~ Beoch Regroded ees ES Basin Droined. New Test Voriobles Set. Ba Sd Drainage and Bed-Form Photos Token. a SS Pe 4 HOUR DAILY CYCLE SK Beoch Surveyed. eH RE ERcaaes ———_| mu an : ! YS All Remaining Sond Picked Up. woter Temperoture ! Soy Surf Zone Photos ond Weighed. Recorded. i SK Woter Temperature ond 1 !

Figure 14. Schematic diagram of the interrelationship of the three experimental cycles.

1. Hourly Cycle.

The various types of data collected in a typical hourly cycle are shown in Figure 14, along with an indication of time of collection. Before a new hour of run-time was started, photos of the beach were taken from overhead with both the 35-millimeter camera (Fig. 15) and the view camerae A reference rope in the alongshore direction at station 5 and painted arrows on the concrete at each station bordering the beach can be seen in Figure 15. Photos, such as shown in Figure 15, provide a record of the change in waterline and breaker bar throughout the tests. The waves were then turned on and usually, within 5 minutes of the start, an overhead photo of the breaking wave was taken with the view camera. The angle between the breaking wave and the reference rope was later measured from the photo to determine the breaking angle of the wave (see Fig. 16). Note that this procedure assumes the alongshore direction remained constant throughout the test. In actuality, however, the alongshore contours are changing, as evidenced in Figure 15.

After a run-time of 30 minutes, wave data were collected for 2 minutes. A sample strip-chart record is shown in Figure 17. The wave height was deter- mined from this record. For a given length of wave record, a horizontal line was drawn along what appeared to be the average wave-crest elevation. A horizontal line was also drawn for the wave troughs. The distance between the two lines was measured to determine the average wave height, H. This proce- dure assumes that a nearly uniform distribution of wave heights is produced by the monochromatic wave generators.

26

Figure 15. Example of overhead photo.

Downdrift ——>

~<@€— Onshore

Figure 16. Example of photo of breaking wave.

: Avg. Hgt. = 14.0¢m =Line established ot Hf HH HB ; by eye

; EE erifits aii i faevaifitzee

Q EEE MEETHHEE

Figure 17. Example of strip-chart wave record.

27

Immediately after the wave data were collected, dye was injected into the surf zone, as discussed in Section III, and the leading edge of the dye was timed over a distance of approximately 4 meters (see Table 2) to determine the longshore current velocity. Also recorded were the station at which the dye left the downdrift edge of the beach and the station at which the waves were breaking. Therefore, the determination of whether the dye moved offshore, along the breaker line, or onshore could be madee Most of the dye injections traveled along the breaker line.

During the hourly cycle, sand was continually picked up from the trap area and weighed when a bin was full. A complete record of the amount of sand moved in a given time period existed only at the end of the day after the waves had been stopped and all the remaining sand had been picked up and weighed. Therefore, the longshore transport rate can be given for a daily cycle or a test cycle only.

2. Daily Cycle.

At the start of every test day (see Fig. 14), the water temperature was recorded, the water level was corrected to 0./10 meter, the wave gages were calibrated, and a check of all equipment was made. The hourly cycles were then started. Four hourly cycles were usually completed each day.

Shortly before the waves were turned off at the end of the day, photos of the surf zone were taken from the side (see Fig. 18 for examples). After the waves were stopped, all the sand in the sand trap, on the downdrift concrete apron, and in the downdrift deposition area was moved to the weighing station and weighed. The day's longshore transport movement was then determined after the final weighing. This quantity, divided by the total number of run-hours, provided the immersed weight longshore transport rate for the day.

3. Test Cycle.

At the beginning of each test, new test values for the wave period, T, the generator angle, a,, and the generator eccentricity, Ecc, were selected and set (Fig. 14). Ecc is half the distance the generator bulkhead movese The combination of period and eccentricity produced a predicted wave height, using the calibration curve of the generators (see Fige 2 in Fairchild, 1970). This guided the selection of T and Ecc but was not used for wave height determination.

The beach was regraded to the shore-normal profile (see Fig. 6) before each new teste This included raking the beach to remove all traces of ripples from the prior test. The basin was usually flooded to cover the entire beach and left over a weekend to allow the new beach to stabilize before the new test cycle began.

After the test was completed, the basin was drained in 10-centimeter increments, producing depth contours of 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 centimeters. An overhead photo of the waterline was taken at each increment. An example series is shown in Figure 19. Surveys of the beach were then taken, using a standard level and rod, along ranges 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 7.6 meters. The elevation on each range was read at all major breaks in slope.

28

Reference Rope _ (Station 5)

Te PS

Figure 18. Example of surf zone photos.

29

esojoyd o8euteip jo

softies o[duexy

61 ean8Ty

30

cs \\

META )

Led I fe gfe 3 hag ZA LZ Sete,

\ MAUR | yA wily

\ rie NAS

~

we Ba,

Ay ‘

ae)

TNR AAI

Ce LEED . Se thy nr

Example series of drainage photos.--Continued

Figure 19.

Finally, photos of the beach were taken at close range to document impor- tant bed forms, such as ripples and bars (Fig. 20).

4. Range of Variables.

Table 3 gives the test variables for all 15 tests. Note that the 0.710- meter water depth and the sand were the same for all tests. The wave heights listed are the average of all the hourly measurements of gages 1 and 2 for each teste

Table 3. Test cycle variables and data.

Total 4 Breaker | Longshore run-time angle current (degrees)

1Not available.

Sy?

Ve DATA

The data collected during the experiments are provided in Appendixes A to D. Appendix A contains the hourly and daily data for each test. Appendix B lists the beach survey data, which are plotted in Appendix C, taken after each test. Appendix D provides 35-millimeter photos of the beach taken during a test with the waves stopped.

1. Hourly and Daily Data in Appendix A.

Table 4 is an example of how the daily and hourly data are tabulated in Appendix A. Column 1 lists the run-time over which the data were collected. Run-time is defined as the cumulative time of wave operation from the begin- ning of the test. A run-time of 05 10 means that up to that point, waves had been run at the beach for a cumulative total of 5 hours and 10 minutes. This would be the case even if the first wave had been run 2 days before.

Column 2 lists the length of time (in minutes) waves were stopped to take overhead photos of the beach. The letters CFD or TC indicate that the testing was completed for the day or the test was completed. Between any two entries in column 2, the waves were run continuously.e For example, from the beginning of the test at run-time 00 00 to run-time 01 00 (see Table 4), the waves were continuously run. At that point the waves were stopped for 5 minutes to take overhead photos of the beach. The waves were then restarted and run continu- ously until run-time 02 00.

Columns 3 and 4 list the water temperature and the water depth, respec- tively. These measurements were taken in the morning before the testing started and in the afternoon after the testing stopped.

Column 5 lists the immersed weight of sand moved during testing from the previous entry in the column. A value is always listed with a CFD or TC entry since it was only at the end of the day that the balance of sand not weighed during the time the waves were running could be picked up and weighed. In Table 4, the value of 4,227 immersed pounds of sand is the quantity of sand transported from run-hour 04 00 to 08 00. This column is not a cumulative listing of sand transported.

Columns 6, 7, 8, and 9 list the wave heights measured by gages l, 2, 3, and 4A or 4B, respectively. Section III discusses the locations of these gages, which are shown in Figure 7. Column 10 lists the breaker angles meas— ured from the Polaroid 4- by 5-inch photos of the breaking waves (see Fig. 16). Column 11 lists the longshore current velocity measured by dye injec-— tions, as discussed in Section III. Column 12 lists the breaker type, using the following code: sg, surging; p, plunging; c, collapsing; and sp, spill- inge A double entry indicates both types of breakers were evident with the first type predominant.

2. Summary Data Table.

For a comparison of test conditions, Table 3 provides the average values of water temperature, wave height, wave breaker angle, longshore current velocity, and average longshore transport rate in immersed pounds per second for each teste Also included are the wave period and generator angle.

33

Table 4. Example of hourly and daily data tables in Appendix A.

TEST 13 PERIOD 3,00 StCONDS GENERATOR ANGLE 30 DEGREES RUN TIME MINUTES ostee @ATER IMMERSED WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER LONGSRORE BREAKER STOPPED TEED DEPTH wEIGHT : cH ANGLE - CURRENT TYPE HR HN CeLG sus cH LBs GaGE 1 GAGE 2 GAGE $ GAGE 4A/4R DEGREES CM/S o 0 2@07 71,0 0 4 1s 0 3o 606 7.6 Tel Tol 6 8G 0) +) 16 1S 1 3o 60? 8,0 7.3 604 c) 3G 2 0 10 2 oy 16 2 43 oot 7.6 7,0 %ok 6 86 30 s 3 16 3 30 602 7,8 607 9.0 6 3G ao cro 2301 70,48 4239 Coa) 22.9 71,0 ag 19 3a 30 Vo2 7,0 5.9 11.9 8 SG $ 0 lo Sips 19 53 30 607 6.8 bo! 1106 7 8G 6 0 1o 6 Ss 1a 6 3a 608 659 6,0 11.9 8 8G 7.0 to 7 4 13 ? 30 Tol 6.8 604 tol 9 86 @o0 co 23.1 71,0 4227 8 0 23.6 71,0 ay 1S G30 603 7.3 7.0 1107 9 8G 9 0 1s 9 2 15 9 30 bo2 7,0 7.0 1202 8 SG 10 0 CFO 23.8 70,9 1861 10 0 23.7 71,0 10 2 20 10 30 Cr 6.6 bo2 1006 o 86 110 10 41 2 14 11 30 To2 6.5 008 909 9 8G 12 0 to 12.5 16 12 3o Fol @,4 6,9 904 10 SG 13 0 10 13 4 lo 13 30 7.0 6,6 6.0 Fol 8 SG 1a 0 CeO 2305 71.0 3506 10 0 23.5 71,0 19 8 18 12 30 Tot 6.6 6,5 Cr 9 SG 190 10 Ses) 16 1S 3o 6.8 o.8 604 06 1 8G 16 0 10 16 @ 18 16 30 605 6.7 3,6 8.6 7 86 17 0 1o 17 © 12 17 30 bod O07 6.8 1009 7 8G 18 0 (400) 22,0 71,0 3633 18 0 22.8 1, 16 =6$ 16 18 30 6.8 7.0 bo! 604 5 SG 19 0 20 NO 18 19 30 6.3 Tol 602 605 5 86 20 0 60 20 $ 14 20 30 5.9 7,8 763 7.8 8 8G 21 0 10 21 $ 12 21 30 5.8 8.2 7.2 8.0 ry 8G 22 0 CFO 2301 71,0 3769 22 06 71,0 22 5 13 22 30 3,7 7.0 6.5 608 5 8G 23 0 s 23.63 i 23 30 b02 7.9 7.7 703 8 8G 23 55 11 24 0 Te 2301 71,0 1680

eee

1¢FD = testing completed for day;TC = testing completed.

34

3. Survey Data.

After each test, the SPTB was drained and the beach was surveyed. The distance and elevation pairs are listed in Appendix B and plotted in Appendix C. The elevation datum is the stillwater level (SWL), which corresponded to a 0.710-meter water depth.

4. Overhead Photos.

Every hour during testing, the waves were stopped to take an overhead 35- millimeter photo of the beach (see Fige 15). The photos show the waterline, the longshore bar, and the swash zone. They are useful for a qualitative description of how the beach responded to the waves. Appendix D contains a series of photos for run-times 01 00, 08 00, 16 00, and 24 00.

VI. DATA ANALYSIS

This section includes the data analysis to determine the relations between Ip and S,, and I, and Po,e The empirical coefficients found from these relations are then, in turn, related to the surf similarity parameter, €, which is adapted to the data collected. Also included is an explanation of the calculations of S,., Ppp, &, and I,, along with plots of the various rela- tionships. The wave Benet used in the calculations is that measured at the toe of the beach (average of gages 1 and 2 wave heights). The breaker wave height, which would have been a better value, was not used for the following reasons. The wave height at the toe of the beach was measured for all 15 tests; the breaker height was not. Also, only one gage was used to measure breaker height, while two were used at the beach toe. The significant differ- ence in height between waves measured at the two beach toe gages (see App. A) indicates that some wave height variability existed along the wave crest. Therefore, the average of the measurements at the two beach toe gages is probably a more reliable estimate of the entire wave passing the toe than the one gage measurement at the breaker is of the entire breaker waves A compar- ison of the data in this report with past studies is shown in a Q _ versus

Pop graph.

1. Calculation of Sxy?

Equation (7)

2 A xy 8 g C

was used to calculate Sxy* Rearranging the equation,

Sg = ao an sin 2a @2i15) where n is the ratio C,/C and a function of the water depth and wave period or length. Sx was calculated at the toe of the beach by using the average of the wave heights measured at that location (see Fig. 7), and by using the generator angle for a. This was calculated for each set of wave data. Thus, for the standard 24-hour test, 24 values of 5S, were calculated

(see Appe E)- The average of Sxy for each test is listed in Table 5.

35

Table 5. Test cycle calculations. Pop Ip Ks Kp E

(J/m/s) | (N/s) | (m/s) 2-201 | 0.6116] 0.5190] 0.2779 | 0.6604 | 2-043 0.6889] 0.6058] 0.3373} 0.6686 35232 0.8396} 0.3682 | 0.2598 | 0.3374 3.615 0.6188) 0.2868; 0.1712} 0.4508 0.789 0.7544; 0.7640 |} 0.9557 | 0.8997 2-144 | 0.9966} 0.5042] 0.4648] 0.6815 4.158 O23 IN Oe23.037 | Oli Sle | Onavisi 3.918 0.3446} 0.1142) 0.0880] 0.4835 4.286 Os 227 1 Ool8o2) | Ost 2 20 Oe SoM

14.761 1.0605} 0.1285} 0.0718] 0.3764 4.839 1.6328) 0.5550 | 0.3374] 0.6644 2-948 1.1941} 0.5328}; 0.4051] 0.9190 14 24 11.578 | 28.802 3.2938! 0.2845} 0.1144] 0.6112 15 24 OG ARS) UG HSS 225502} 0.2756; 0.1884! 0.3934

2e Calculation of Pope

Equation (10)

—2 a pg fe Pop ( 8 c,cosa), sind,

was used to calculate P,,;.- The term in the parentheses, like Sy >» was calculated at the toe of the beach. However, the sine term used the beesiker angle as measured from the photos of the breaking waves. The breaker angle used in the calculation was the average of the breaker angles collected 30 minutes before and after the wave data were collected (see Fig. 14). Pep was calculated for each set of wave data, 24 values of P were calculated for the standard 24-hour test (see Appe E). The average of Pep for each test is listed in Table 5.

3. Calculation of &.

The surf similarity parameter of Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) was presented in equation (17) as

tan B

(#4, / Lai

For the data in this report, a different surf similarity parameter is needed since H will be substituted for Hp» as discussed at the beginning of this section. Therefore, the surf similarity parameter in the following analysis is

noe

g = tans (22)

(H/ OO he

36

The same beach slope was used for all 15 tests and was determined as shown in Figure 21. A value of &€ was calculated for each test using the average

H for the entire test. These values are listed in Table 5.

-0.4 -0.3 -0.2 _-0.1 = (2.65 ,0.000) SWL a] (0) ase he ee 5 SS SS SSI Se a SS. Slope Used in Surf Similarity Parameter 0.1 S 0.253- 0.000 | é Si tan B: 658-265 = 0.0644 mo 0.2 \ e (6.58, 0.253) = 0.3 2 S 0.4 Backbeach Test Beach 0.5 0.6 0.7 -3 -2 -l 0 | 2 3. 4 5 6 7 #8 Qs 107 alee We Station (m)

Figure 21. Determination of beach slope used to calculate the surf similarity parameter.

4. Special Tests.

Three tests were performed under special circumstances. Test 2 was a repeat of test 1; test 8 was a repeat of test 7, except the sand feeder was moved shoreward; and test 11 was done with a generator angle of Zero.

Tests 1 and 2 were both run with a period of 2.35 seconds, a generator angle of 10°, and a generator eccentricity of 5.9/7 centimeters. Test 1 ran for 25 hours, test 2 for 50 hours. A twofold comparison of the two tests was originally planned. The first 25 hours of test 2 data was to be compared to the test 1 data, and then, both sets of data were to be compared to the last 25 hours of test 2. Unfortunately, due to an experimental error, only the first 30 hours of the test 2 longshore transport data was collected accu- rately. Therefore, the only comparison made was test 1 to the first 30 hours of test 2. Reference to test 2 in the remainder of the report refers to the first 30 hours only. Appendix A contains all 50 hours of test 2 data.

Table 6 compares the results of the two tests. The differences listed give an indication of the repeatability of the data collection. The longshore transport rate changed by 12.6 percent, which is a significant variation. This

is an inherent problem of longshore transport tests, indicating that some important unknown factors are at work.

3ii/

Table 6. Comparison of tests 1 and 2.

Total Avg Avg Ip Sxy Pop

run-time H Oh,

‘ (cm) aria (N/s) | (N/m) | (J/m/s) 8.17 0.612 1.18 2.20 ea 03 0.689 eee 14 eal 04

[stem] =125 | +12.6 7) 53-4 730)

‘(Test l= est Dy, 100 _ Test 1

eo difference =

Tests 7 and 8 were both run with a period of 1.90 seconds, a generator angle of 20°, and a generator eccentricity of 5.9/7 centimeters. The only difference was that the sand feeder, which was located at the SWL for all other tests, was moved shoreward 1.4 meters for test 8. The feeder was moved because the shoreline at the end of test 7 significantly angled shoreward toward the downdrift side of the beach. This can be seen in the test 7 photos in Appendix D. The feeder was moved shoreward to see if a straight shoreline resulted. It did, as the photos in Appendix D for test 8 show. Another major effect was the change in I, from 0./28 newton per second for test 7 to 0.345 newton per second for test 8, a decrease of 53 percent. Test 8 is excluded from the remaining data analyses.

Test 11 was run with a period of 2.35 seconds, a generator angle of 0°, and a generator eccentricity of 5.97 centimeters. The test was meant as a control to determine the amount of sand moved by the diffusion caused by breaking wavese This value of I, for test 11 was 0.089 newton per second. A comparable quantity of sand, 0.059 newton per second, also moved updrift. Test 11 is also excluded from the remaining data analyses.

5. Daily Cycle Graphs.

As discussed previously, longshore transport could be measured only on a daily cycle or test cycle basis. For the typical 24-hour test, six values of longshore transport rate were calculated. Each rate covered a period of 4 run-hourse During this time period, four values of 5 anda were calculated, averaged, and related to the corresponding value of I,. These values are listed in Appendix F and plotted in Figures 22 and 23. Table 7 lists the important statistical parameters.

Table 7. Daily cycle statistics.

Relation ‘Least squares lines

ee Y-intercept | Through origin | slope _ slope _

pe versus us), "|

I, versus Be

The square of the correlation coefficients, r2, represents the fraction of the variation of I, about its mean which is explained by the abscissa eepailg i62 \se@ne 1) and P are 0./4 and 0.73, respectively. These numbers show that Ip) correlates well with both terms to approximately equal degrees. The least squares lines listed in Table 7 are in Figures 22 and 23, which also include the least squares lines calculated with the limitation that the lines pass through the origin. The slopes of these lines are 0.28 for the I, versus S xy graph and 0.13 for the I, versus Pop graph.

38

M4aADD ABOVHWZDA[AA MBODHOZOE

V2

Oo

2

Oo Oo

ae Oo

2? 8 7 7 2 - eG ? Go 2? go a 2? 7 ? 7? 2 Z| 0 ly wm = A ? Oo 2 o fa =] ee 7 281 eae Ue 0,’ Oos y ? e 4 6 8 10 ie

RADIATION STRESS N/M

Figure 22. Relation between longshore transport rate, lI), and radiation stress, S,., using daily cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded).

39

14

MADD ADOVWVIZDAA MBOTBZ®HOOZOEP”

NN Z

a “0 ai 7G % 5a Oo uaa o Nae a) 2? G MZ @ oo oo" a oO ee ogee 9 O° ap -TE) 5 1@ 15 28 25 38 LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR J/M/S Figure 23. Relation between longshore transport rate, I,,

and longshore energy flux factor, Pop» using

daily cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded).

40

35

6. Test Cycle Graphs.

The average longshore transport rate for each test was calculated and compared with the test average of Sxy and P,,. These values are listed in Table 5 and plotted in Figures 24 and 25. Statistical values are in Table SoZ Lon. Lj versus S,, and I, versus Pp), are 0.72 and 0.74, respec- tively. As with the daily cycle calculations, Ip is shown to correlate well with both terms to approximately equal degrees. Figures 24 and 25 include both the standard least squares line and the least squares line forced through the origin. The slopes of the latter lines are 0.26 for the Ip, versus Sxy graph and 0.13 for the Ip versus Py, graphe

Table 8. Text cycle statistics.

Relation Figure Least squares lines

No. Standard i Y-intercept | Through origin slope | slope

versus

versus

versus

versus

&

Ww

MADD ADOVNSDVA MBOTNOZOSe wu

@ e 4 6 8 10 ie 14 RADIATION STRESS N/A

Figure 24. Relation between longshore transport rate, I and radiation stress, S.., using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded).

41

an

eS

MADD ADOVHWIDAA MBOTHHOZOP [s¥) Ww

WN As)

@ 5 10 15 28 es 38 35 LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR J/M/S

Figure 25. Relation between longshore transport rate, Ip), and longshore energy flux factor, P»,, using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded).

7. Surf Similarity Relation.

Figures 26 and 27 were drawn to test the dependence of K, and on &. Test numbers are indicated in the figures. Table 8 lists the statistics. The K terms were calculated using equations (15) and (16). These graphs show that K is far from being constant, as is commonly assumed, and that it~ is strongly related to €.

8. Comparison to Past Data.

They units of el and Py, were converted to those used in the SPM and plotted in Figure 28, which is taken from Figure 4-36 of the SPM. The SPM figure was modified by shifting the x-axis to convert from P to Pope Equation (13) shows the relation between P and Pose Test numbers for the data points of this report are noted in Figure 28.

Two major observations are immediately apparent. The first is that the laboratory data in this report, as in laboratory data from past reports, have considerable scatter. Since the surf similarity parameter, €, in this report varies by a significant amount for the different tests, as shown in Figures 26 and 27, some scatter is expected. The surf similarity parameter, of course, does not explain all of the scatter in the laboratory data- There are still some laboratory and scale effects which are not yet understood.

42

1.00

0.75

20.50

Figure 26. Relation between K, and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 43

1.00

0.75 Kp =0.89€ -0.22 r2 = 0.56 0.50 0.25

Figure 27. Relation between Kp and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded).

43

Longshore Transport Rate, Q ( yd>/yr)

ore

10°

102

10° Ome

Figure 28.

7 % Hy 7 * Vi os % ¥e a ¥ eae s © 14 15 i 92 13 i 6e 236 e10 2@ Se7 I° ge9

© Present Lab Data (Test No. Included ) * Past Field Data e Past Lab Data

Ome Om lowe 10! Longshore Energy Flux Factor, Py, (ft-lb/s/ft)

Comparison of data in this report to past reports, using SPM Figure 4-36 (tests 8 and 11 excluded).

44

ye j % SPM Design Curve *

102

The second observation is that most of the data fall beneath the SPM curve connoting low values of « Since the SPM curve is based on field data, mostly from Komar and Inman (1970), a possible explanation is that the field data were collected under conditions of higher values of &€ than those for the laboratory data. Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) suggest that Komar and Inman's data were indeed collected under conditions of high Epe It seems reasonable to assume that the &€ values were also high.

VII. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

An analysis of the radiation stress, S,y» and the energy flux factor, Pop» shows that both predict longshore tranSport rate, Iz, to comparable degrees. Approximately 70 percent of the variance of Ip about its mean is explained by each term. There appears to be no major advantage in choosing one over the other to predict the longshore transport rate. However, Sy. has the advantage of being constant seaward of the breaker zone while Pop is note This makes the calculation of S§& more convenient than P»), which must be determined at the breaker lines On the other hand, Pop has the advantage of having the same units as Ip, which means that K is dimensionless.

The empirical coefficients, K, and » are far from constant although is commonly assumed to be so in practice. Part of the variation of the coefficients can be related to the variation of the surf similarity parameter, —&, as shown in Figures 26 and 27. These figures show that K, and will increase with §. The considerable scatter evident in Figure 28 can be partly explained by the relation between the empirical coefficients and &. The data in this report and past laboratory and field data are compared in Figure 28. The laboratory data generally predict lower values of I for a given P compared to the field datas Part of this trend can be explained by the dif- ferences in the surf similarity parameters, assuming the field data were collected under conditions of high €.- Also, laboratory and scale effects probably contribute to the lower laboratory transport rates. The relative

importance of these factors is suggested as a subject of future research.

45

LITERATURE CITED

CHESNUTT, C.Be, “Analysis of Results from 10 Movable-Bed Experiments,” Vol. VIII, MR 77-7, Laboratory Effects itn Beach Studtes, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Vae, June 1978.

FAIRCHILD, J.C., “Laboratory Tests of Longshore Transport,” Proceedings of the 12th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol. Il, 1970, pp. 867-889.

GALVIN, C.J., “Relation Between Immersed Weight and Volume Rates of Longshore Transport,” TP 79-1, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va, May 1979.

GALVIN, C.Je Jre, and EAGLESON, P.S., “Experimental Study of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach,” TM-10, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Washington, DeC., Jan. 1965.

GALVIN, C. and SCHWEPPE, C.R.e, “The SPM Energy Flux Method for Predicting Longshore Transport Rate,” TP 80-4, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va-e, June 1980.

KAMPHUIS, JeWe, and READSHAW, J.S.-, “A Model Study of Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate,” Proceedings of the 16th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol. II, 1978, pp.e 1656-1674.

KOMAR, P.D., and INMAN, D.L., “Longshore Sand Transport on Beaches," Journal of Geophysical Research, Vole 75, Noe 30, Octe 1970, ppe 5914-5927.

LONGUET-HIGGINS, M.S.~, “On the Statistical Distribution of the Height of Sea Waves, 1," Journal of Marine Research, Vole 11, 1952, ppe 245-266.

LONGUET-HIGGINS, M.S., “Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves," Journal of Geophysical Research, Vole 75, Noe 33, Nove 1970,

SAVAGE, ReP., “A Sand Feeder for Use in Laboratory Littoral Transport Studies," The Annual Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board, Vol. 15, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C., July 1961.

STAFFORD, R-eP.-, and CHESNUTT, C.Be, “Procedures Used in 10 Movable—-Bed Experiments,” Vol. I, MR 77-7, Laboratory Effects itn Beach Studies, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., June 1977.

U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER, Shore

Protection Manual, 3d ed., Vols, I, II, and III, Stock No. 008-022-00113-1, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1977, 1,262 pp.

46

APPENDIX A

HOURLY AND DAILY DATA

The data in this appendix are available on computer cards from CEIAC.

47

RUN

SCCHOKBH OB POVVYVATTANACC SCH BABU NMRKK——-—Ooae

ee ech wane

14

SE EHWUANN KKH OOO

TIPE MINUTES BTOPPEDA

ce

CFO

thet

CFD

WeooMmMoOD000S

a

ay

we

we

CFD

Se

cw

40

a

w

CFD

we ow

40

ow COSCO SCOO MOC HOCOROMBOMOTCONOOCWODTDOMCSCOCOCOCOCCOSOSO

cro

le ltee oo

w oo

60

ee) ocowo

CFO

) 60

0 vc

WATER

TEMP

CeLs tus

25.5

2205

2205

22.8

24.5

WATER

vee’

PERIOD 2,35 SECONDS

cM LBs

71,0

3600 y1,0

a2 71,0

1376

1810 71,0

2508 71,0

3260 71,0

2644

PERIOD 2,39

71,0

IMMERSED DEPTH WEIGHT

GaGe 1

10,0

veer SECONDS

1004

1004

1004

10,0

10.4

“CKD = testing completed for day;

os GENERATOR ANGLE 10 DEGREES WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER cr ANGLE GaGE 2 GaGe § GAGE 4AasuB DEGREES t) 6,4 9 6.8 8 602 6,6 6 7,0 10 0,4 t) 6.8 6 6,4 7 6,0 9 7.2 8 7.2 9 $,6 9 602% si. oe 6 8,0 6 7,4 6 7,4 6 ove 6 6,8 6 6,0 6 5,6 7 7,0 7 6,6 7 5,8 6 ©,0 t) 02 GENERATOR ANGLE 10 OGGREES V 5,6 y 5,8 7 0,4 6 6,4 6 6.8 TC = testing completed.

48

LONGSHORE CURRENT crs

BREAKER TYPE

TES’ 08

RUN

xz D

SSCHODPOSBBOWMYSSTAAS

- =

pe be ee we ee ee eaowanwe

14

TIME

wn

Cont

MINUTES ATER avopPco! TOMP

C2Ls Us

cro

CFO 21.5

cFo 2005

CFO

CFO 2800

60

cro 23.0

75

CFD 23.7

65

WATER JMHERDEO

OEP TH HESGHT cM Los

3252 71,0

1644 71.0

2944 71,0

3290 71,0

28u4u 71,0

2754 71,0 71,0

Gace 1

10.2

WAVE HEIGHY

5,6

5.4

49

Ca

GAGE 40708

ORE AKER ANGLE DEGREES

so

LONGSKORE CURRENT (2)

BREAKER TvPE

ODOCSCBPSTSOrMVYYUYTSCTMMMESSCHSVYUBUYN=—— COO

10

Cony

MINUTES WATER WATER IMMERSED stopPep! TEHP DEPTH WEIGHT Ceussus ‘cH Los CFO 23.5 71,0 60 CFO 24,5 71,0 So ve y PERIOD 1,390 96CONDS 22.5 71,0 5 s 80 cFo 2200 70,9 2792 21.8 Tol 5 5 CPD 21.8 70,7 24.00 71,0 CFD 2300 71,0 a7se 2200 71,0 5 110 g cro 24.0 70.9 3016 2005 71,0 5 115 +} CFD 2002 70.9 2420 19.5 1,0 5

GaGE 1

10.8

10,0

%o2

cer

1302

1301

120?

12.4

13ol

13.2

1306

1103

13.2

1104

12.8

12,0

1261

50

WAVE HEIGHT Cr

Gace 2 GAGE 3 GAGE 4Asa8

GENERATOR ANGLE 10 ORGREEO

12,3

11,6

12.4

15,1

14,0

14,7

13,3

12,9

13.9

15,3

14,4

14,0

15,0

13,2

10,6

14,5

12,2

11,6

BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES

LONGSHORE CURRENT cuss

GREAKER TyvPE

TEST 03 CONT

RUN TIME MINUTES WATER water IMMERSED WAVE HEZGHT ORE AKER LONGSHoRE OREaKER avoPPEo! TEMP DEPTH WEIGHT ] ANGLE CURRENT TvPE HR MN COLS 2U9 ce Loo GAGE 1 GAGE 2 GAGE S$ GAGE Ga/aH DEGREES cused 18 0 100 10 3 7 18 30 1204 12,2 19 0 5 19 2 6 19 30 12.8 11,8 20 0 cro 19,0 %1,0 2626 20 0 18.0 71.0 20 3 10 20 30 130! 13.2 21 0 Ss. 21 64 14 21 30 1201 1103 e2 0 115 22 8 8 22 3o 12.9 11.8 23 0 s 23.3 2 23 30 1302 13,0 240 0 us 2700 4 reas’ 0a PERIOD 1,90 S&CONDS GENERATOR ANGLE $0 OGGREES

a) 1900 71,0 0 38 t) 0 30 9,6 11.5 1 0 5 15 6 1 30 1004 13.2 2.0 gis a3 6 2 30 fiol 13.6 3.0 +) 32 o 3 30 11.0 15.4 a0 eFo “1500 71,0 2300 a0 1600 71,0 a 6 C) a 30 1109 1602 $ 0 5 Sirs 6 S$ 30 1400 19,2 6 0 11s 6 34 8 6 30 10.8 13,8 % 0 $ 2 8 ? 7 30 1002 12,8 8 0 cho 15.8 70,9 2164 8 0 14,0 71,0 ai C) 8 30 1108 12.5 9 0 5 Oe" tC) 9 30 ioe 13.2 10 0 115 10 S$ 7 10 3o 1000 12,7 1100 +} ° 11 7 6 11 3o 10.0 13,7 12 0 co 1902 71.0 1912 12,0 1002 71,0 1a 6 7 12 30 1003 12,3 130 S 135 9 13 30 100! 12.5 14 0 115 1 6S 6 19 30 904 12,0 13 0 5 1s S$ 6 13 30 905 12,8 16 0 CFD 15.8 71,0 1896 16 0 1700 71,0 16 4 c) 16 30 909 13.3 1) © s 17°~3 t) 17 30 904 11,8 18 0 110 18 «3 7 18 30 8,8 11,8 19 0 Ss 19°«S 7 19 30 6,8 12.4 20 0 CFO 1605 71,0 1968 20 0 1005 71,0 20 3 6 20 30 10.4 13,7 21 0 S 213 6 21 30 1004 12,4 22 0 115 22 4 8 2a 30 805 11.3 230 5

51

TEST 94 CONT

RUN TIME MINUTES WATER WATER IMMERSED WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER LONGSHoRE OREAKER svopPco! TEMP DEPTH WEIGHT cw ANGLE CURRENT TyPE HR MN CLS IUS cM Loe GaGEe 1 Gace 2 Gack $ GAGE Savana DEGREES case 23°53 8 23 30 Bol 11.6 23 Se 6 2a Te 1005 71,0 1720 Teoy 0S PERIOD 3,00 SECONDS GENERATOR ANGLE 10 OBGREES 0 0 12.00 v1,0 os 6 0 30 600 0,9 8.2 1106 1 0 5 1.0 2 1 3o 7,0 6,1 7,9 10.0 2 0 iT) 2e 2 2 30 6.8 7,0 7.9 908 doo 5 3k a 3 30 6.8 7.6 602 1104 a) cro 1105 70,9 1832 ao 1)0S 71,0 a3 6 a 30 5.9 7.4 7.6 1004 3 0 5 3 a 1 S 3o 600 6,8 609 908 6 0 115 6 3 a 6 30° 607 7.8 801 1100 7 0 5 Lee) 3 7 30 700 7,4 8,6 1000 8 oo cro 1105 70,9 2724 8 oO 1200 71,0 8 2 1 O80 6.8 9,0 1092 1004 9 0 8 9 4 r 9 30 6.4 8,0 8,6 1002 10 0 85 10 4 a 10 30 656 802 91 1006 11 0 3 Aiteees a = 11 So 602 @,0 8,0 1004 120 cro aor 12.0 13.0 7100 . 12.9 1 12 30 6.4 7.7 8.0 906 130 5 13 2 ‘ 13 30 600 8.0 8.2 Gee 100 40 ig a 5 14 30 700 7,8 Tol 9.0 18 0 5 Sees) a 1$ 3o boa 8,2 6.3 907 16 0 CFO 1500 70,9 2370 16 0 14,0 71,0 1o 3 = a 16 30 7.4 7.7 72 92 2 PesG My 0) +] 5 1% 8 17 30 7.0 7,8 8,4 902 3 PesG 1@ 0 115 18 3 7 18 3o 604 0,7 91 909 2 PasG 19° 0 5 19 3 4 19 30 605 8.5 10.0 3 20 0 CFO 14,0 70.9 2788 20 0 1400 71,0 20 10 3 20 30 604 7.4 7.7 900 3 3G a1 0 5 21 2 0 21 30 702 6,8 7.3 8.8 3G 22 0 85 é 22m 10 22 30 609 7,8 6.1 905 J 86 23 0 $ 23 4 2 23 30 607 8,0 7,8 906 3 86 23 So 3 24 0 TC 153.6 70,9 2206 TEST 06 PERIOD 2,33 SECONDS GENERATOR ANGLE B80 OGGREES 0 0 71,0 Oe 13 0. 30 1001 5.7 7.9 10.0 17 P 1 0 5 Sea 8 1 30 9,6 5,6 7.3 8.6 15 Pp

52

TEST 06 CONT

RUN TIME MINUTES waTER WATER IMMERSED WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER LOnosHoRE OReaKER evorPcD! TEMP DEPTH WEIGHT (a ANGLE CURRENT TvPe BRD AN COLS US en Lee GaGE 1 GaGE 2 GAGE 3 GAGE SA708 OEGREES cuss 2 0 119 2e 10 2 3o 1002 3.3 6.4 802 17 SPoP 30 3 308 ii 3 30 9,8 50% 6.6 6.6 17 SPoP a0 1) 100% 91,0 3aa2a a 0 1009 ¥1,0 ay om) a 3o @,6 o,6 7,8 900 19 e 5 0 $ 3 3 10 § 30 92 6.0 7.0 6.6 17 ° e 0 415 6 7 9 6 30 8.9 . 6,0 Tol 6.8 1a iY 7 0 5 7 5 9 7 3o 8.3 6.7 6.2 92 1S Pp 8 0 CPD 1100 70,9 3000 8 0 18.0 91,0 6a 7 8 30 9.3 oo! 6,8 9.6 10 ® 9 0 8 9 4 L) @ 3o 6,0 0.0 7.0 900 17 p 10 0 00 io 9 10 10 3o 8,4 6,6 7,4 900 19 ° 110 $ 11 6 v 11 30 9.4 oo! 6.8 909 18 e 12.0 GPO 13.0 91.0 2990 12.0 12.0 71,0 12.5 9 12 30 93 03 7.0 %ol 17 ° 130 5 i3 S$ 9 13 30 6.5 0,8 Toa 900 17 ° 1a 0 $00 1a 8 9 14 30 Gol 6,0 Toa 8.8 19 Pp 180 5 19 3 6 13 3o 6,8 6,4 6.5 8.8 16 ° 16 0 (44) 1205 70,9 3304 16 0 1400 71,0 16 8 11 16 30 9.3 6.5 7.0 9.4 17 ° 17 0 8 17 8 9 17 30 96 71 7,0 Goa 10 P 18 0 120 18 3 128 18 3o 9.6 0.7 6.3 6.7 17 P 19 0 3 19°~9 c) 19 So 903 6,9 7.0 0.7 10 ° 20 0 (14) 1308 v1.0 3920 20 0 1803 ¥1,0 20 5 ? 20 Bo 6.8 e.3 7.8 8.9 16 e 21 0 5 21 4 1 a1 3o 8.0 6.7 6.6 1000 15 ° 22 0 as 22 5 ’ 22 3o 92 60! 6,9 907 19 ° 230 3 23.«5 ? a3 3o 9.3 oo! oo! 6.6 16 ° 23 35 8 aa 8 ve 130% 70,9 3ag4 yest 07 PERIOD 1,90 SECONDS GENERATOR ANGLE 20 OEGREES 0 0 9.3 71,0 0 6 4 0 25 11.4 13,0 1300 1002 Jo ° 0 35 12 1 0 8 1 a 9 1 So 1203 {loa 12.8 3o P 2 0 80 2004 2 © 10 2 3o 12,4 10,6 12,3 20 ® 30 5 3S 12 3 3o Mtol 11.6 12.8 29 Pp a 0 ero 9.9 91,0 1008 a0 15.0 71,0 a 8 10 a 30 9,3 10,3 12.7 34 e § 0 3 $3 11 3 30 G1 9,6 1257 ve ( 6 0 as 1130

53

Teer

0?

RUN TIME

wR

2@20PTFOw8wssFe

16

SSC HHSC HG®PSB@®wIAVFTPOAMAAWTSSHSLYUNNNYH——H—BCOo

Cony MENUTES, WATER areprco! TOHP Ceus sus

S (a) 109 1109

3

75

8 Po 10S 18

9

80

3 ePo 1808 12805

3

90

€Fo 1005 Po 1305 18.3

3

200

r) Te 1808 18.3

$

105

3 CFD 12.5 1300

s

9%

5 (0) 18.9 18,0

5

00

wavER JMMEROED OGPTH WETGMY cu Loa Gace 3 6,8 6.9 70.9 181e V1.0 603 8.4 907 907 yo,9 2a34 vi,0 9,8 10.0 9,4 8.6 71,0 a016 71,0 9.6 9,0 9,8 y1,0 6,6 91,0 2000 ¥1,0 903 1000 G7 0,0 v1.0 1600 yee’ PERIOD 1,90 S&CONDS ¥1,0 1004 9,3 1096 907 ve,9 a3o04 71,0 9o1 6,8 6.2 70a 70,9 1224 v1,0 700 6.5 9,4

WAVE HELOHT

Gace 2

11,8

GENERATOR ANOLE

4107

1102 10,4

12,6

54

19,3

113

1201

12.6

13.6

14,0

i3ol

13.4

12,0

12o3

12,4

12.6

12,6

1203

1106

12.8

11,0

11.8

12,8

12.3

@aGe A700

1508

1509

15.0

1503

a0 «6(DEGREES

1503

150%

1300

1500

13.9

1503

1359

OREAKER ANGLE OGGREED

10

10

12

Ms

14 13

M4

12

10

LONGSHORE CURRENT cHs8

33

32

20

34

30

33

3a

34

26

3o

26

26

19

BREAKER TvPE

TEs’ 08 CONY

RUN TIME

HR

11 a

oe SOO KPSSTPOWWAVSTPHVMHSCHSCEHVYEBNBY——-—-C20Oo

oe —

eee ee oe we wee ee ee COMARE ECE MUR

LL}

rv e ry

~

rs ro we SeoucoS#ocoeocomoocwoecwocf®0owccomooB2oco woowooo so

ae

MINUTES syoPPEo!

ero

ve

Po

water TEMP

CeLs sus

1400 1400

14.0 1900

$900 14.5

1409

1300

1400 16,8

1605 145%

1900 13.5

WATER JHmERSED

DEPTH WEIGHT 1) Los 70.9 1002 71,0 70.9 V30 V1.0 : 70,9 600 71,0 70,9 700

GaGe 1

9.3

To?

709

yes?

PERIOD 1,30 SECONDS

71,0

¥1.0 a11a y

v0.9 1920 V1.0

71,0 1930 Y1,0

70,9 1304 v1.0

i108

1108

iio?

WAVE HEIGHT €

" Gace 2 Gace 3

12.5

12,0

12.2

11,8

dod

Itoi

1407

12.0

18,0

18,0

1407

QENERATOR ANGLE

18,0

9,6

0,7

55

13.0

1200

12,8

13.2

13.2

1907

13,8

11.4

12,0

i107

11.0

10.8

t1eo

11.0

12.0

Itoi

11.0

10,4

10,8

1002

1109

11.6

1007

GAGE 9A/00

14.9

14,9

13.8

150a

1503

15.3

1407

15.0

1500

1508

1700

1608

20 DEGREES

1104

1200

MsoI

110%

12.8

12.5

12.8

13ol

120%

1302

1202

1307

BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES

Ma

10

18

10 43

13

18 16 16

1a

16 146 18

1a 13 15

13

LOncGsHoRE CURRENT cure

17

19

17

19

17

{7

16

33

ao

39

30

3a

ay

27

22

a7

34

22

a7

BREAKER TvPe

SP oP

BPP

SP oP

SPoP

BPoP

SPeP

BP oP

BP oP

ap

TeEeT

mo)

RUN TIME

HR Mh

16 16

eee SCOSCHHAP®MP®OWMISTMTVHMESCOCOHVUAND=—=—|as0

ee ee to tot DD ORO

13

Cony MINUTES

eyopPED!

GPO

CFO

ve

GPO

Cfo

CPO

water TEMP Clrs tus

1309 1303

1305 1503

1508

1907

18.5 19,8

WATER DEPTH

1)

V1.0

%1,0

70,9 71,0

JHMERSED WEIOHT Los

3078

604

M1o2

1103

1104

120!

1103

1104

iio!

yesT

1,90 9&CONDS

9780

3926

3336

1553

19,3

15,3

1407

1308

1503

159®

1407

13.8

1007

15.3

14,4

15.0

1307

1491

14,4

1461

1307

13.3

Gace 2

10

56

WAVE HEIGHT

9,8

GENERATOR ANGLE

16,3

179!

16,2

17,4

17,7

17,9

10,2

10,3

17,9

17,3

21,0

19,3

19,2

10,8

19,8

2907

19,5

cr

GAGE §

11.9

1104

11.6

11.6

12.8

17o!

17.6

18,6

17ol

16.8

17.4

153.3

1605

19,1

16.8

17ol

QaGe @asaB

1304

1301

11e?

1100

10.8

13.8

1491

1002

15.9

16028

1707

1603

1902

16,8

1604

173

16,3

17,4

1907

BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES

13

16

16

17

18

18 16

M1

14

1a

16

17

18

16

15

1e

16

1o

16

LONcSHoRE CURRENT crHs8

33 ae 19

le

2a

3o

16

26 27 26

27

3a 27 26

39 32 33

3a

34 32 26

33

2e 23 20

a7

TyPe

sp

ap

oP

TEST

RUN TIRE

HR

- =-

i

eocoo

SCOCHSOBPDBMOVWVVSSTCMAMAMSOOCHVYSMIBM——=—=BOO

13 19

CONT

MINUTES STOPPED!

6

19

Fo

PD

Po

(44)

cho

ve

ero

WATER

TEMP

Ceus sus

18.28

2007

20.8 2907

28.0 21.8

1907 2004

20.2

WATER IMMERSED

OGPTH WEIGHT CH Los GaGE 3 14.3 1307 1400 0.9 3Vo0 YEO’ _PERTOD 2,33 SECONDS v1.0 1002 %o7 9.4 9.2 a2 ¥1,0 90! 9,8 10a 9.9 70,9 ago 1,0 6 901 9.0 9.6 70,9 70 71,0 9.6 @07 92 9.4 70,9 310 1,0 9.2 9,8 9.3 90a 71,0 ais v1.0 900 9,6 9.9 %ol 90,9 206 yveay PERIOD 2,35 SECONDS ¥1,0 91,0

GAGE a

4

57

WAVE HEIGHT

GENEBATOR ANGLE

9.0

8,5

S.@

GENERATOR ANGLE

GaGE §

17.0

1002

7,8

8.7

6.7

9,0

GaGE 40708

1709

00 O8GREES

1054

1308

14,0

13.6

120%

14.0

12.9

1303

1304

1307

1209

idea

12.8

13.5

12.6

1203

120%

3o 6OGGREES

BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES

17

°F

e}

a3

o3

a1

LONGBHoRE CURRENT cus8

er

ay

oy

OREAKER Tyee

yest

RUN TIME

HR PN

RHR -§ 0900S SOO BOEVYNVTFSCOMABMSCE ER ABVEUNNMH KK oO

ee we we oe we we ee

ee ee ee ee ee ee eee MP OCCMUUOoCY MwwBA

Weer eecowewNwynN—-—-—-s00

Cont MINUTES

o7vepPep!

PO

CFO

(44°)

18

10

vc

10

WATER TEMP clus sus

22.0 22.8

28,0 23.0

2301 adoi

23.8 23.6

23.0 2206

22.3

2e.7

2d01 28,9

WATER IMMERSED OGPTH WEIGHT CM Les GaGE i 907 908 10.3 10.6 ¥1,0 3703 71,0 1003 10.3 9.5 10.3 70,9 goy? 71,0 9,6 11.0 1005 1093 70.9 gaoa ¥1,0 1103 100! 1104 909 70,9 $626 71,0 903 eo2 9,6 9,9 71.0 g7aa y1,0 907 903 oi 9.5 %1.0 5773 yes? PERIOD 3,00 8&CONDS ¥1,0 6.6 6.7 bo! oa yo,8 4239 y1,0 y.2 oo?

WAVE HESGHT cr Gace 2& GaGe 3%

3,3 703 5,4 83 4,3 O07 4.7 Oo! 7.5

6.0

6.9

bod

5.7 607 407 oof 6,9 6.3 $.a ol 93 0.0 0.9 bol 4,9 $,9 5,3 6.0 6.4 6,9 oo! ool 5,0 6028 6.0 6.3 o.5 703 3,0 7,0 a,0 628 5.0 O02

13 GENERATOR ANGLE

v6 Fol 6,0 753 7.6 7,0 7,8 6.7 7,0 5,9 0,8 bo!

58

GAGE 40/08

909

900

Cr)

1108

100!

%oa

Bo | O8GREES

11.0

BREAKER

ANGLE

DEGREES

2

a2

18

16

a

19

a

vw

16

22

22

20

16

15

13

16

19

LONGSHORE CURRENT cuss

20

23

z6

20

CD)

29

33

29

37

33

33

32

BREAKER Tyre

86

86

5G

TEST

RUN TIRE

HR

Br-——FTCSCC CSS SBSOYWYSOSTD

ee we ee we eee

SPO CSBBOWMWVYPSOTHMMARECSCSSCUVBBN=—=——T.oo

eee —-oo

CONT

MINUTES avopPeo!

10

CFD

19

Fo

10

fo

10

ero

10

1o

eFo

fo

3e

eFo

10

10

eFo

10

15

18

wateR

TOHP

COL sue

2301 23.00

23.0 2307

adoi

2303

wareR BEPTH

¥1.0 y1,0

¥1,0 v1.0

71,0

TMMERSED

WEIGHT

L698

ara?

1801 °

3506

3033

3709

4000

PERTOD 3,00

1,0

¥o,9 71,0

10350

10030

ood

708

Fol

7.0

year SECONDS

13ea@

159.0

1506

1506

Gol

14,4

15.0

1506

14,0

14.7

1407

WAVE HEIGHT

Gace 2

703

70

607

7,0

eH

Gace 3

6.0

6,4

6.0

7a

Gace 4asaB

1109

idol

Vo?

9d

98

1009

605

7.3

73

GENERATOR ANGLE 30

17,0 10,2

19,7

16,3 16,8

59

1407

1503

114

1206

12.2

11.4

12,0

1700

16.6

15.0

16.8

19.@

16.6

19.8

1909

OEGREES

BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES

13

20

16

16

10

16

19

16

10

Let M4

ay

20

a3

20

20

34

34

LONGSHORE CURRENT chs

33

3a

a7

a

ay

26a

17

BREAKER TvPE

86

86

86

86

86

86

a6

Teer

RUN TIME

HR BN

VNB KK COSHH SCBSSSP®P®MVWYFROMVASCTCOCOCMWVMw~URMH———BAO0

eee eee eee

CONT

MENUTES avorPep!

waTER TeMp CLS Jus

CPO 12,4

196

10

1$

75 15

Po

78

(af)

ve 1.8

CPD 16.0

¢PD

WATER JHMERSED OEP TH WEIGHT cM Les GAGE 1 14.4 90,9 1ooa! Vi, 169! 14,6 14,6 1407 v1.0 10646 v1.0 13.8 15.8 1401 14.3 70.9 10170 71,0 1302 1502 1803 1900 yo,® 11994 yesy PERIOD 1,90 sGConds 71,0 13,8 1308 12.6 1307 71,0 7426 v1,0 19,0 13.4 13.4 10,0 71,0 6604 71,0 13028 13.9 13.8 13.4 ¥1,0 7949 71,0 18,0 132 14,4

WAVE HEIGHT Ca

GaGE 2 GaGE § 16,8 12.3 10.) 13,4 15,0 13.3 15,6 13.8 15,2 13.5 16,8 12.8 15,9 12.6 17.7 13.5 10,8 12,8 14,4 12,3 17,4 12.2 10.2 12,0 13,0 12.3

18

60

GENEBATOR ANGLE

16,0

17,6

17,6

15,8

17,0

16,4

10,8

19,0

10,8

17,0

15,9

17,0

13,2

14,6

15,3

15.3

1302

1206

13,4

14,6

13,8

16,4

Gace 44748

16,6

1706

1708

16,8

17.0

1700

16.8

170d

190)

1708

So

16,3

1605

16.9

1963

19.5

19.4

19.2

DEGREES

BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES

30

3o

31 31

19

1o

10

1y

19

10

19

20

190

20

LONGSHORE CURRENT css

20

22

19

20

So

a0

40

30

Jo

Jo

35

40

BREAKER TvPE

PogP

PoaP

PoaP

PoaP

PosP

Teer

RUN

HR

Tyme

ra

we e oe @SwecssccecoovccBocoOMoOowVoOoOWVDoMooD0eS

wo mI

18 CONT

MINUTES

eToPPED!

sy

cre

10

10

15

CPO

ve

walter TEMD COLE IUS

1309 10.0

1005 1700

1008

waver JHMERSED

DEPTH WEIGHT (4) Lee Gace 3 1302 70,9 boae 1,0 1203 12.6 1304 130! yo,9 9090 1,0 13ol 18.0 12,8 13028 70,9 9820

61

WAVE HEIGHT

16,3

16,0

10,8

13,0

17,3

16,3

10,3

15,0

cH

Gace 40/08

16.9

16,6

1907

B00}

2006

8003

80.60

20,9

1999

BREAKER QNGLE OEGREES

10

ay

16

ay a

LONGSHORE CURRENT cuss

40

ao

a3

ay

BREAKER TvPE

PosP

ffPhe” 4 iS ap Rast wwe ; nym ' ni m

T " ‘ ; t > Bice), hay, Rea aae eae Beg i} Welwieay,, " Airak wom nee Se ah ae oe is nea iy PRRs GTN eS aaa a aa ee fe ea ar i ; He ' oT

e's eg 5 Se ee Meet

wid

wy Sie SLB 1 hn i ai j tiey B Fi ' Ae i ' oH

what’: Hr ; ED Te aaa 273, 9 \ +hoq ,

Cf

: va ieee, Haas eS

i ‘ td ; ' nis ieee a sift

{i i fe ne : o 4. ie # po iii ;

te

Sin uk ie

$

i’

41 . i hier a

i Wee

af 5 i¥ hal ‘ ) ' v ¥, ts ‘ agk

v6

RANGE 1.3 RANGE Bo0 RONGE 9,0 RANGE 690 RANGE 7,0, RANGE 706 Ta LEV Ola ELEV STA ELEY ota ELEV Sta = EL Ev cM) cm) (A) cM) cm) cm) cm) Cm) (my qm) 0000 oa73 0000 0,00 o@75 1039 0135 1030 085 6090 1075 0105 1065 1030 0350

1058 11S

2000 20010

3,00 ©0085

3o20 20090

G@o34 eof79

oo2iS

20240

02a0

20305

20330

11000 00380 11093 11093 eoViB ©0320 29500

20670

ooFkS

TEST 2 (after 25 houre)

RANGE 1093 RANGE BoO RANGE 300 RANGE 4.0 RANGE 5.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE ¥,0 RANGE Too

STA ELEY eva ELEY BTA ELEW 8Ta ELEV Bla ELEV Sta ELEY Sta ELEY Bra = ELev

(rm) (My (mn) (m) (mM) cM) (my (M) (m) CM) (rm) (m) (m) cm) (m) (*)

0000 0295 6000 0000 0060 295 0000 290 0.00 285 0000 0,00 300

1.74 otis 1091 1095 1.98 150 1049 14S 1051 0155 1o3@ 1,08 0150

2015 So Qote 2.97 1098 0135 1086 0160 1078 9160 todo 2039 20005

3.65 00605 3.05 3017 2.98 .003 2eovd 00005 205% 0.000 2058 3.13 ooVFS

3.34 00080 3037 3.20 3.14 ©0100 2099 ool1l0 3.06 3.08 3,60 20090

3073 e030 3060 9048 3.43 00160 3040 ©0200 3.49 Soga 5.00 ecdeS

6 000% 307 Jobo 3o01 00095 3079 ©6100 3081 3090 6078 0510 Pei y) Go13 4,33 170 GeS1 2180 4,45 aoa7 8,03 oo375 20855 4049 $.99 3038 oo23S Soo? oo240 Soa 5066 9019 Soo oo Iho 5.98 6098 ©.76 oo325 095 0345 6060 6093 10,67 2s 2049 6068 68.38 8.08 ©0400 8023 00425 8035 0,455 8020 12000 0710 0085 7.88 053 9,08 0.520 96a ©0335 9,08 9005 eobTs 0,48 10070 10073 00635 10082 2,060 10.90 0,060 10073 OoV8g 30070 11.00 11087 oo718 11087 ooV1S 11090 oo710 1108) eof05

11.98 TEST 2. (after 50 hours)

RANGE 1,9 RANGE 2.0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 440 ROnGE 3,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE Too

Sta Ley eta Elev eva eLev 81, = ELEV Ola ELE STA) ELEY Ta Elev Ora = EL ev

Cm) cM) cm) Cm) (Mm) cM) (my (my Cm) (mH) (A) (A) cm) (A) (ms) (4)

024s 0.00 029s 0000 865 0.00 0300 ebko 1047 0195 092 «9185 1024 0160 0138 aol2 0140 1038 0145

0185 20% 0145 1075 160

©0085 3,22 0090 1086 0120

22030 3.52 20005 2026 0045

e00%g 3,%a 2052 0,005

@o2o 3.92 8092 070005

2007s 4013 20080 3010 0,089

doh30 5.00 20160 3032 00130

eohts 0.08 ©0260 3098 oo210

oo98s 7.as 11080 0.719 20389 G@o32 e160

00% 16010 9,09 06920 Oot? 06300

0608 $1068 11070 oo 719 9066 00739

0.709

TEST 3

RANGE 1,3 RANGE 2,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 500 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 700 RANGE 796

STA ELEY ots =eLev OTs ELEY Bra Lev BTa ELE OTA elev sta ELE Gra Lev

CH) (hy cM) (4) cm) (M) (my CM) cm) OM) (C5) () cH) cy) (my cm)

0200 fT 0.00 0310 000 898 0.00 2890 0000 0895 0.00 0310

1.86 085 1080 6100 1009 130 1040 14% 1094 0130 1047 0130

2.30 00000 2202 060 1051 095

2.80 20105 @o1e 2060 1,06 085

3.20 20150 2006 0,000 1o7l 9080

3,90 20105 3e19 0,075 2.09 0,000

3,75 20270 Bo33 eollS 3040 0,090

O,18 eoa7d Bobo ©2063 3,66 0,150

4,60 20260 Go3G ©1770 3093 0,090

5.07 20299 G0%8 0,200 Soll e230

5,05 20509 S029 0,235 5.93 ©260

5.95 0638 5080 0215 53 0.255

6070 ©0710 0270 0205

7,00 2230 0295

8.20 20300 0,00 ©,300

9,08 2290 6,85 0,435

40,03 10.60 °,395 9,75 0,555

41,097 11008 2815 11.98 0,708

41,90

63

TEST 4

RANGE 1,3 RANGE 8,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 5.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RanGE 7.6 8Ta ELev ora ELev ora ELEY Sta ELEV Bla ELEv ora CH) Ls) 4) o*) (HM) CM) Cm) CM) (A) (4) cm) 0,00 885 0200 28% 0.00 .a75 0.00 285 0000 295 0.00 1o10 0155 1ed2 0125 207 =,a3s 1o34 0135 268 230 1.34 etfs feet 2095 1e4) ,taS 1,44 1065 e115 1035 of0s 1087 2095 1061 ,090 1.71 2007 4050 1077

ello 2010 2080 1083 .100 1,47 20a5 2014 02000 2029 0088 2.40 2095 2.91 2008p ao 3050 3,42 2003S 3.0u 4007 Sei cello 3029 ©0000 9000 30% eotto 0.95 Goa 2022S S072 4.65 eoR's 094 5301S 206g 7045 5.75 20375 7086 7018 e030 0.03 7020

11098 ofits 9050 7.81 9.98 8,57 10040 9015 11001 9,76 11090 10,38

TEST $ RaNGE 1,3 QanGe 2.0 RANGE 3.0 RANGE 9,0 RanGe 53,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE 7,0 sta ELEv STA ELEV STA LEV 8Ta ELev Sta) ELEV BTA ELEV Sra ELEV Sta ELEY (4) (My cm) cm) Cm) cH) (may > Cm) Cm) cm) (A) CH) cA) (A) (mH) (#) 0.00 o&275 0.00 260 0,00 280 0000 265 0,00 280 0000 e&75 0,00 290 290 «08S 298 17S 098 175 290 0490 285 190 097 «0185 1,00 «180 1052 225 10865 155 1,02 1eo2 235 1.24 .a05 1019 0185 1,00 0135 2.72 20008 2076 0,005 1,74 Bod 7,010 2065 0,010 2053 00010 2,00 0060

2.80 3.65 3o24 0,090 3,43 G,00 ©,220 ayi4 G,88 0,190 G,9} 5,74 5,09 6,80 o.a2 7.08 Toa? 8.23 8,80 6,00 9091 10012 11,95 11090

11,007 11.97 11008 0710

RANGE 1,5 RANGE Be0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE Ty6 Sta ELEy ara ELE STA ELEY 8Ta ELE Sta ELEV sta ELEV ota ELEV Sta) ELeV Cm) My «m) om) cM) CH) (my (mH) (A) (M) cM) (M) (#) cm) tm) cm) 0,00 875 0200 R85 0.00 298 3000 0275 1,00 e178 1000 195 1,40 145 1.30 0195 1085 0158 1030 135 2e30 6100 2015 0055 2.40 «2095 2020 110 2.80 005 2,85 2005S 3410 20035 2.90 020 3030 00065 3010 Pol1S 3.30 ©2085 3030 0,005 4.00 140 3.50 3.80 2.045 3020 20039 020 02140 9.90 20165 4900 4.40 e155 3030 20100 ae7%0 9,40 3.20 o.835 3.36 ©.50 5.90 e626) 6.40 7,80 6070 24300 Yoko 6,65 7.10 6335 6 ®,80 7.70 9.20 10,00 8,00 100 11,90 8,00 11010 090 @ 0 9,20 11.090 0,708 9,00 10,30 10,90 11,40 11.20 ©0079 $1090 $1090 eo710 TEST 7 RANGE 1,5 RANGe 2,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE 7.6 Sta ELEV ata 6 ELEY 81a ELEY Sta ELEY Bia ELEY STA ELEY Sta ELEY Sts ELV (4) (Hy (4) (¥) cH) (4) (my (4) (hy (my cm) (4) (mM) cm) (a) cH) 0.00 0000 295 0.00 2290 0090 295 0.00 290 0.00 1,53 1083 ,085 1.30 150 1e23 4180 295 185 208 2,02 2.30 ,04S 1.394 ,085 1023 2095 295 4100 208 2.38 2079 ©,030 1.23 .090 1,35 2.82 3.38 1e72 0,025 1,75 3.30 Gell 2029 ©,100 2.65 Ge66 108 040 o,135 3.07 5.78 2.200 3,04 oo11S 3,09 6546 0.230 3.35 0.135 3,90 Ye2a 4.00 -205 4,69 7.80 4,76 2,165 Soi? 6.77 5030 o.adS Soot 9,00 6e10 e220 o.32 10,00 6,70 0,308 ©.68 11200 7o33 0,305 7.07 12.25 8.81 8,36 6.98 9,00 12,85 6718 9.53 0,555 10,00 10,00 ©2390 12088 oo 91S 11,00 11,00 e718 41,90 12,a8 ©, 718 12,29

64

RaNGe 108

ata (m)

0.00

ELEv cM)

0845 0B15 oll 2040

20025 2007S 20065 eotlo 20145 eohT9 eos

RANGE 1,5

87a cm)

0.00 1013 1,38 1,08 1,82 2,03 3,09 3,38 3,85 4,23 4,7? 3,87 $,0a

EL6y (My

e870 0155

RaNGe 1.3

Sra (mH)

0,00 1,04 1,04 2,07 2,04 3,48 3091 4,15 9,42 5.05 3.60 6.40 6,95 7.43 6,35 6,90 9,97 10,90 11,15 11,92

ELEev (My

2280 0133 0135 e0010

RANGE 1.9 Sra Lav cm) CM) 0,00 285 1e$0 blo 2.30 ec08o 3410 ©6085 3,22 000%0 3,48

3,79

4,25

Soi?

0,62

7,43

6,03

9.91 10.60 $1.90 eoVlo

MaNGe 8.0 67a LEV Cm) cM) 0.00 280 032 20S 090 oll 079 0030 2.0023

RaNGe

ara cm)

0.00 098 1207 1.85 2.05 2.85 3.68 Goi3 445 5.02 S079 052 6.97 7000 0,30 9,28 10,00 10,69 11.95

RANGE

ara cm)

0.00 to3a 1060 1270 a.sa 3.02 ais 6a $.28 oo10 bo O)

6 9097 16.353 11,98 1109S

@.0

QLev

(4)

0283 0175, 0135 0018 20015 2009S 20108 20155 eo2l0 20150 20250 20300 eo303 2036S @o430 20463 2,099 20508 0

8.0

ELEV cH)

0290

0120

2090

2070 20020 20040 20150 20180 20180 20260 20500 20350 2,440 e520 29010 20090 20710

RANGE 00 ata BLE cy OH) 0.00

042

045 1038 1086 231 Sot 3076 a.3a @081 5058 66S

RANGE 3.0 STA ELEY cm) (M) 0.00 ,a9 todo 115 1073 078 2,02 ,078 8069 0,020 3.03 0,080 3036 0,070 30%

5 $015 6.00 0097 7033

RANGE 3.0 ora ELEW cm) (*)

RANGE 300 Ta elev cm) (*)

TEST 8

RANGE 4,0 Sta ELev Cm) (4) 0.00 299 o79 «0218 09S 0070 1,76 ©0015 2063 oo120 3003 00175

23150 20170 eo2tS

$1.93

TEST 9 RANGE 4,0 Sta ELEV (m) (m) 0.00 300 1038 090 2.02 0065 2.33 3,07 3,42 3,07 2,08

S.S7 e015

RanGE 4,0

Sta ELEV (my) CM)

0.00 300 1.99 0115 1.65 0108 2.37 3079 G32 9,70 5.08 0,98 Tae 6,24 9009 10,79 11093

RANGE 4,0

Sta LEV Cm) (mH)

0.00 .300

093 0190 Leas 1,Aa 2.00 3.05 3.58 G49

11.03

65

RANGE 90 8Ta ELEY (A) 4) 0000 300

002 0210

006 0130 1063 e010 2oP1 eot2S

Joto 3068 4008 9065 050 7058

RanGe 3,0 ala ELev cm) cM)

RANGE 600

sta ELev cm) (4)

0.00 300 076) «oaSd 083 4118 1078 0,015

2005 0,065

2068

3.22

4,03

S018

5055

6092

0,08

RANGE 6,0 ata Lev Cm) Cm)

10,01 0,000 11.00 0,705

RANGE 650

sya ELEV (ms) (4)

0.00 300 1.66 115 2.09 0,009 3033 2,070 3079 0,090 4,63 e513 5.63 0,100 6052 0,253 20350

0445 2,390

20078

RANGE 6,0 BTA ELev (M) cm) e310

0200

0120

2015

2013 ©.035 3,20 ©,070 2138

4,98 0,205 5.93 0,270 6,92 ©3525 7.31 0,308

11091 90705

W072

RANGE

va cm)

0.00 1028 1081 203k 2060

7.0

ELev cm)

RANGE To

BTA tLev (m) (a)

0,00 «265 0220 0155

e013

e015 eolTS 7018S eo2es

20233

©0300

eeG0S 0053S

70085

2909S

RANGE 796

Sta =ELEV Cm) cm)

0.00 1,24 2,00 2,09 3023 3,83 8.62 $000 6

1107) o703

RANGE Too ya elev Cm) (LP) 0.00 0305 075 0205

1,02 0165 1.15

1.80

2017

Joid 3.65 4,a2

TEST 12

Rance 1,9 ManNGe 8.0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE Sra ELty ora ELcy ara eLey $Ta ELEv sta sta ELEV Sta Cm) My (m) CH) (m) cM) (m) Cm) (A) cm) cm) cr) 0280 0.90 0290 0,00 ,300 0.00 310 0.00 0.00 08g 070 «2208 1.18 ,120 1015 0135 1037 1025

e1a5 0138 1.74 1.37 0095 2001 1.60 2050 2200 2095 2070 2.90 3030 2.28 080 3o10 2.80 3092 2066 4068 3036 3.02 3080 3oG2 00063 3.92 3o61 aou2 3.68 20070 Got O21 5.00 9.00 26130 S030 5.00 5.92 G.70 e140 $082 5.58 6080 Sool 0200 08a 6.93 Pod 7090 7.20 oT 0078 7093 6.45 7,42 000 8,88 @.12 8.80 10020 9.57 10000 9.30 11.08 10015 $007 100a7 11085 10086 10016 itooa 10,00 11040 10068 41,00 14093 oo 705 11020 11083 TEST 13 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RanGE 7,6 Sra ELEY Sta ELEY Sta ELEV sta ELEY Sta ELEV Sra + Lev cH) CH) (my (4) (A) CM) (4) cH) Cm) (*) (my cm) 0.00 ,310 0.00 »310 0,00 o315 0000 310 0.00 088 = ,180 050 «5245 084 4200 082 9810 299 1059 095 175 1o24 210 1050 0130 1.83 2.09 1.02 0140 1.87 130 2020 2005 2,53 2.33 1.84 055 2.48 010 2098 00005 3,39 2.92 294 0010 2075 20050 3053 aaa 3.2 2,80 00093 2.96 0,085 Goa2 So3t Ho4} 3,40 00195 3,09 ©5450 So0a @,28 G@433 00180 3.68 0,258 5.99 0091 Go42 05180 0088 7678 Sol} eo2l0 0,77 5.95 33 6076 9.30 10,02 7246 10035 t1.at 8,77 11038 11,97 r) 10.d6 11,08 10.39 0,600 11017 11083 2080 11.98 11099 eo710 11005 0.910 TEST 14 RANGE 1.3 RANGE 320 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 0,0 RANGE 700 RANGE Y,6 $Ta ELV eta LEV BTa ELEV Sto ELEV STs ELEY STA ELEY Sta ELEY (H) 4) cH) (4) (my Cm) (ib) (4) (4) (4) (my cm) (my cm) 0,00 885 0.00 ,300 0,00 305 0000 0505 0,00 0305 040 B40 0000 040 o13 300 0000 0235 033) 0255 039 0225 082 035 ofS 0170 092 070 20% 1035 0,075 1.22 020 1072 1,26 030 1079 2,110 1082 ©,040 2022 1053 ©6020 2026 0,200 2052 e6110 2.95 2023 ©2080 3020 0,220 2061 20155 3065 2091 20200 3093 0,240 3030 ©2240 Goay 3658 062% 0,95 Go23 0,260 $80 6074 Food 8.82 9,85 100% 11039 11093 RANGE 1,3 RANGE 2,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 5,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE 7.6 STA EL Ey STs GLew eva Sta ELEY Blo ELEV STA ELEV Sta ELEY Sta ELE (4) my 4) CH) cH) (ny (4) (m) cH) cm) cH) Cm) cM) CH) cm) 0,00 88 0.00 «285 0.00 0.00 .@AS 0200 295 1,10 2340 085 0178 263 285 2180 295 0190 1,15 265 6135 263 085 0125 1e3o 0125 1,35 1.83 20010 1.83 1.13 0120 1e6a 2,05 2.46 22090 2.24 1077 6015 2060 2,60 3035 on230 2631 3.00 26085 2090 3,35 3.92 ev231 2.95 3.30 06155 3o3a 4.20 G.00 70285 3.48 S.o2 5,50 05 6300 W@o28 3.83 6,75 0,95 e326 S017 4004 7.75 7.93 ©2400 6026 G25 8,75 6.80 7.455 5.05 10,07 16.08 05509 6.45 41,515 11010 7007 41,93 11593 6.78 10,97 20420 10010 11593 ©3570 11020 14093 00700

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66

APPENDIX C

PLOTTED BEACH PROFILES

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APPENDIX D

SELECTED BREAKER BAR AND WATERLINE PHOTOS The following photos from 35-millimeter slides were taken at approximate

Gun—hourcse sO 03)0) lo. andi 24% Figure 15 provides an explanation of features. The complete set of slides is available from CELIAC.

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APPENDIX E

HOURLY CYCLE CALCULATIONS

A listing of the program which calculates the values in this appendix, using the data in Appendix A, is available from CEIAC.

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APPENDIX F

DAILY CYCLE CALCULATIONS

A listing of the program which calculates the values in this appendix, using the data in Appendix A, is available from CEIAC.

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