{ Pate ‘SF 487 B3 1908 Copy 1 MIRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK a Cis PRT EE Th oN The Chicken Business from First to Last Including 11001 Questions and Answers May find under our Big Roof a large stock of goods useful in their work. We make to order neat fit- ting, cleanly and durable Out- ing ‘Clothing’ for both men and women, We provide Storm Clothing, Mackintosh and Rubber Boots, likewise Rubber Shoes and Are- tics. We carry a large stock of Buckskin, Rubber and ‘Canvas Gloves, Canvas Leggins and Hats, Knit Norfolk Coats and Sweater Jackets. Out of town people may trade readily with us by sending for our illustrated literature, mailed post paid. Men's Suit and Boot Catalogue omen’s Outing Suit Catalogue Tent and Camping Goods Catalogue Standard Duck, 29 Inches 7 ounce, 14c 8 ounce, Il6c 10 ounce, 19c Irrigation Hose... KODAKS... : oe ed : ach & te Developing Y inc inc inc Printing Coated or plain. Send for prices. The Wm. H. Hoegee Co., Inc. Sunset Ex. 87 138-40-42 SOUTH MAIN Automatic 10087 LOS ANGELES, CAL. Ghe Famous “SUCCESS: INCUBATOR Sold on Free Trial to Anyone Anywhere. 130, 260, 340 and 612 Egg Size. INVESTIGATE HIS high hie Incubator before you buy any other at any price. We own our own building, pay no rents, and can un- dersell by many dollars all other dealers in incubators and brooders. All incubators are made from first grade clear redwood wool padded tops, double walls, lined with heavy felt paper, hot water heating system, 14 oz. cold rolled copper heater, special long lever automatic self regulator. Our machines will hold an exact even temperature, no watching them at night. See them hatching thous- ands of chicks here any time, Our heater is better than any other used on any incubator at any price. Automatic in admitting free air. Investigate this machine and save many dollars and get the best at any price. Free 32 page book contains lectures on chick raising, ete. Its free, send for it today. E.. E. McCLANAHAN 112 East 8th Street Los Angeles, Cal. Doke Poultry Supply Co. 108-110-112 East Eighth Street Los Angeles, Cal. Main 5651 F-1635 WHOLESALE and RETAIL Dealers in all goods in the poultry business. Our business has grown in tour years from a room 10x12 ina barn loft to our own building at 108-110-112 East 8th Street, 52x80. Why? Because we sell the best goods at the lowest prices. We carry a full line of Poultry Supplies and can give you prices on anything from one bag to a carload. A few of our leaders are: Beef Scrap, Blood Meal, Bone Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Clam Shell, Oyster Shell, Grit, Meat Meal, Charcoal, Scratch Feed, Egg Food, Chick Feed, Roup Cure, Lice Killer. WRITE FOR PRICES CHICKS, in dozen, hundred or thousand lots. Send for price list on chicks and eggs. We ship everywhere. Mr. W. W. Howard, The well-known White Leghorn Expert, says: “I am feeding Excelsior Egg Food exclusively to my poultry, and I know of noth ng better.” Excelsior Egg Food i Is a rich, nitrogenous ration, x honestly compounded. — Pro- duces egg-laying conditions. ( More eggs when prices are high E EXCEL S |} Ook Excelsior Scratch Food carefully prepared food, made from sound sweet grains —no filler. Excelsior Chick Food Properly balanced to form bone, tissue, and muscle. and to Excelsior Fattening Food Adds two to three pounds of clean, white meat to market develop healthy chicks. O fowls, so much sought by select Keeps Chicks Growing. Fe trade, at extra profit. Get Excelsior Poultry Foods through your dealer, if you can; if you can't, GET Excelsior Poultry Foods; we wi! supply you direct. EXCELSIOR CEREAL MILLING CO., 242 Central Avenue Los Angeles, Cal. MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK Tells you What to Do and How to Do lt + 4 The Chicken Business from First to Last Including 1001 Questions and Answers Relative to Up-to-date Poultry Culture Published by Mrs. A. Basley and Felix Kertson 624-625 Chamber of eee Bldg. Los Angeles, Cal 1908 Two Copies Recsived OV 20 1908 | ARY of aid Copyrignt cuuy i i } INTRODUCTION In the hope of helping beginners and others of my friends in the poultry business, and in response to urgent requests for a book on poultry culture from my pen, I offer this little volume. It is a synopsis of many chapters of my “Woman’s Work in the Poul- try Yard” and other talks on poultry, and embodies the personal, practical experiences I have been through myself in many years’ of, pleasant'*work in the poultry yard. Its object is not necessarily to urge anyone into the business, but to encourage and help beginners and especially newcomers on the Pacific Coast, where conditions differ materially from those in the East and where there is an increasingly large demand for both poultry and eggs; where the poultry business is about as profitable as any that can be undertaken and a good living may be made in the pure air and sun- shine ‘by any industrious man or woman, Having for many years been lecturer at the Farmers’ Institutes in the Extension Courses of the University of California and having been editor or associate editor of four agricultural and other newspapers on the Pacific Coast, many questions have during this time been propounded to me relating to the poultry business, its difficulties, the troubles of poultry raisers and the ailments of fowls. Some of these thousand and one questions will be found in this book with the answers to them, also ;jremedies for the diseases or ills of fowls in this climate. Hoping and feeling sure that my little book may prove a help to all its readers, | am Very cordially your friend, ba Q 4 n < Q < a cs = Copyright 1908 by F. G. Kertson TABLE of CONTENTS Mammut SeUSe OM tye ENOUMSESp ts. sends tess citecpey soe el bse cS eleisNe Seuayept's odalacays Seiten ahi cave LOM Clim Sete ems aire cr, unre: Mteestbi agin cie 2. 5.5.2 Rep erento oes felts Ie ar 2S arom al Bab ateKeleb ro eqe mee oe rs ee anion erat an a dr vr gee Stee ets se ere PMC Un TamlY ict RC ty Sateen Lethe HOR een dee Mb he Tia eA ice cgele sacs ovaianelae os etaus ‘Salle ARSON) Se cael: nies Aiba SR SERS Sead 6 NGA. cc ea meen IRR tava) Oe NNCELIO Cumerwar neste re Seri eiel ess eiagtale. cies oro Sheets leper )aSi..0h ac aiaos. White Diarrhoea in Brooder Chicks 1 A I GRE be i Sa Mice eee Oct ee SOMITE TSN VL Ciica NneMemne S ed) Seen ck TN Ne gewoon A ee cc sarshehenieteyicg y Gaal Bheates “TP TAa) aN eae Be cee Ag ake oP er Oe Re RM RA, SP SIRS eT TAPER “Siete SAGO Gale 74a eta een ge Py Re eS RG Me sg eee ROR Pos othe page SMI LOUNIG OD Grit SLravitlos rate Cath: = vs eRie cies ene mar Mieisk cues eae Seestsror a,boultry, Ward ss4e.ca seit... 5 0.52 A. eee 6 Gs oes TES PCRS Sad BA aa Soya gh cos aos en NI ee te Ata. sfc oc tes ane re RNR atc MEATS ES ROU NE OUD tate Vrs «ste earsets a cbete co vaib ebb ciccuns 6) Gite to bo Settanctcap om ear tea oe ne oy ol ea eee “TE eyuiatel OTe el Oh 7 er wean ae oe EB a: ORI Sane SE Pee soe nCPeAn emp e Wicnt Lise 8 Moulting Season Ree MC es COMOIBY Doe reese ae a acetate <4 cer Ais Rtas Sten Peete eine» camahe sion atone webs TEES Sir a alle gl te (ol rs Oe A cy, ein wR Ae ee ne RS eee e ht aE oe een et Oe ON ste oer. 3) Bg ¢ rue ti Oe. eo alae > Rha eet ee iGeninomiteddy tor ther SHOW.....0e. a. 25 of me eel es SIGE bails Beate inkevcranice clone tOumalgeid eMac. 22 e/osvdyerudgee ovekourest a aie breusi sts or tieene lane ae Dicey ete aialeed Miner riege W/E aI ee ee She he EER FRC, TSP Ree cee ay cid Oe erarie rane WAN heitetacese ce etek eS. Jc 2s ths laelieete ci elve.e bo e's oe ght tac PRES OTSE ATIC ATISWWE Gy srt aah. sceneries s akin Set ames oe Moses 9 ea oeenorsre chy WanSS: dis Gre nO ly SIC KMESSE cin eye Siac exert s-crereeacis, oieia este, 5) 6s Shee che als Pe Maten, CLICKSraticn WOU Bit.. vais q sot cistsiwimiges id ion ee Fe ogadet, Cele Risemdey ter NORE TAL: 32, vadlit./ erase dt) Sead) 55% Wore ores isin rim. 2 3. ys be mye honN Hoe OPestiGthr.. a) ic2 cv. ei bay. 1. DIRT Tete ae es a Beanie ae bet MMO Bie CASO ie tar cero vcclea eee ieee toes Biss nae Nee Rear Sie, ic enin awit PincuMatan aliments terme nite. > cate onl i deren Sone! iEdoysifhiesaeee & [EI CRRISISSY PS OPES Gg BNE OL: GMC ERIS 0 cera ne Ren Cae anne ate Vernal uel YO ORIEN rn cle soe ees aeRO eC OEE McLee Ee ae ER NYU IN WGI WES Oe CITC t yar ised Smelter eeicts coe va vai aoe staan oe oe os) ae (OMS TOvas Loyielehesen Gohaleir spe sewee tele clon Goh CoA TRE ARR O s cel = Miauscellaneots Otestionseamd: ATIS WEIS) see's t55 bale tle’ cle ete orl EOI y LIVE COA TIC MOGI N SH tins. a etched ite acs 6 dine stort pee clea Ne Muankceve OUestions aid eANiSWieLS ws ae went s va eals ete, 2f2 ded Seek ie bree s POO ICE SHATION EEGE: oo otha Hf Giare.s Gia idaheteeweils a laic/S ad whe eitatlale ie stent CLASSIFIED INDEX A PAU EERO We. EO OUNES creiensi6 © teks eit nae chee 168 PATTON: Gem Owes. e epanetenattes slishateweNe rire 129 PELVIS IV VUTLU CO: ens) covet chebenalovelsie ie seiietiettayts 172 IAS CeO NLAULINE csi chaser ottenetetencnorstenele islets 165 PAW OP UIEE oie Gi ectve sisueholete @ ciste sisecis © Gis ste aba bis) Ainrine, Hess in’ IneubatoOri 2... 156 PAUP CAne or cies iat ene. obs suoderesenens 140-145- une PATINE TAG AM GOLA SSie vers tous selene sotelelys eWavesis) 66 ATIANIY STS ROW HE earl yeere iva lensie sere ialeleke aera 139 Atrial OO GE teaerete cisterns 26-139-144-148 BAY OPDUCSY) alate tetas is s|siekeNie solic, ste/eaiele, + eralevete i Itsy AT LINCIa le UME UVA GION. mi hercrs-cleleie -- Sietelle 46 IXEHEW EV OONEIGN 5.3.0, cago cond Oho Crome ene. tc 19 B SAG VOCAL rier olencuc enedo eeeve tease shes unt enisiteriere teste 139 Balla nGe distevalel Onlerstenercrs ie. -sctetoiel stone steve 80-75 ESA MEM A ieare ehete 2 etoieenets susetenauros shavehe (e 117 IES OV eeecexieveitanotocanclc atere eieue sxeietera’s geue 139-143 OCD UTS Ue a tepretencterchatiotcet ete isdorictiche lise cieienenadatte 68 Beginner’s Questions........... 169-187 BSCR OM Sekoicvorstenehs cuaieieelcieie © cheke ketal 140 Best Breeds: for Broilers)... ssa 64 WAS, Best Fowls for Beginners...... 168-169 ERG Sit ral Cr Cheat etras sche ba a feteotich airs Pam epee) ole, a cette helene 65 BEST aie TSiis chovcrereueronel suekeaians tole) eleeeriene 151 Best bime Lor (CapOniZiNiey.,... +. ls) 68 IBA HClO. o seleiah nog obo § Gem. 0. aiotonD 117 ESEES GE TIS a eoteta che) suckers usec omepiolietems talc: cineheeirepeye 121 TE ilrovoye lh WWW lien cuete Ooo. oeao ocho uc Cue rere 139-141 BIOOG SPOtCS IMOH SL SSt wc cic cle one 130-151 ISOC? IVES aid oom ooo Ob olGO Comer OO 134 IEMON ie OR SME tS tate. ato o GOOD On Oo Don 119 Breed svand sClassese fe sie icc) sani elem) 6 16 Breeds. SClOCtIOM Oleic s+ + ekeiss = suelo 23 STC COMME) Vat. secs costs etelecece)s. ss < asus eens 165-192 SNE COMME WE OS ULB sy. epcusie tenes svohenchenesnaterene Breeqing TMunrlkieys': 2a + tiem wisiee's cpemiane 184 Brea Chime MT CULGyee. .. .cekalteene themetene 122 Broilers eDreCG’S CLOW... os... c sieleteeneie ds 23 IBTOMEMSREEVALIOM LOM: we,» «+ drecrencietenete 35 BrokcensChina, COM Gril... sco mem cient. 66 FSV OO GCS Bera cis sueiee sate lea s0abe elles! siesteueuy 52 Brooderc@ hicks: Care vot sais. ee cna cite 51 PEST OTN CUCU Si ctelievasredatere ya. n ee labane el a. aware eee tel 116 CMe tint TOM ANE CGS aye. ce.s s,s she foie) or isteneuercnes 32, ATMO OG prota cue vo a) Jo ay susweroneds Givedenete 115 SUT A PEAS ANIM cra rehctebeve, eile ic eh ele le, sxe, ceoneuele 162 C SO AICS Tabirereienct cnet non snotsniteas « seifete)ionel ous le eterevtens 120 (Chiral) Cree Gite treed) cer enone Ree MEME CROMER 71-118 CAM ALAUSINY so. 2 welareieue wets ose sias bene ee 119 GON eer stslss rasta Ge teteeliaieie sa es ales 87-1738 CAPONSHAS PBIOOGEDS ac calcitic scores saree 8 Car teararshigiges sector pe. e':0 | ox.cloten eee ke atetale rata“ 119-130 OE TT ty nctet ote Need! (Grits; 27. sc.05 selec toate 66 Dump y,;, ‘Olid, wens. . sack. vickelee eee 122 Dusting’ the: Hien..)..2).9. ene 44 ; HK Hating Combs... sniewees neers 174 Economy in Different Ways........ 80 Elbow HoomiNeeded: s. 2. see 52 Mnlareved Dueiveri. sc... ccc igh eee nly § Hge, Analysis Of... 4... sates 32 Hee, Bound. .c.c2e sek AO eee 152 Bee Mating ic <2 ds. sas «ooo 6 ree 153 Bee ROO (oso edicl's as'eus sto lenel es Cast nee eee 139 BS Question. <. «2s aaue eee 149 Se VROUGC so acs. chn a oa wie: Oke ete 60 Wee "Mester ion i... ater va sacsese een 27-43 Hees, Breeds for. ......h- eee eee 23 Hees) for) Breeding: se. eee 25-27 Hees for Hatehines). -aatete 40-47-159 Mees for Market...o..c «cco sche 29 Hees—Thin Shells i... «eee 67 Hees, 200 .aryealr's iis. ctere) ici ieee 29 Hnelish MWlass yo i..cc acl eieke os eres 19 HMissenitialsy: sic cies )egrenatacs sos peuie ete 29 EXXETCISE) ©3125 225.c ee ete nae arora 29-30-141 Expert, Opinion)... «see eee 51 Byes’ ‘Swollen. 2.2 0b nc eee eeeeeene iayih F : Fall on Their Sides and Die........ ATG hh: 5 A rr eres Pe SAAR ALS 2 com to 33 Hattenine ‘Cockerelist. a0. 36-144 Fatty Degeneration of Liver........ 127 Favorite Breeds for Caponizing...23-88 Heather “Puller... eistetova cycles se-eteneeme eee 122 Mec qdinge: | \..creemooncrts sehen 26-30-33-34-77 Meeding; (Chicks). ia. » a .cuskeeruieree 53-178 Meedine® Cornuct: -.).,s\..-scisiiels cones 187 Heeding, During; Moult.-2. 7) nse Ui Meedinse. Duck sis oc. sos vasseiteneaieeaete 107 Feeding in General............- 139-178 Heedine for Market. «5. «iinet 144 Feeding Turkeys Ties le id. ora Bicele titel eee a eee 97 Mertility in? Duck Hees... ene 191 Hertility In We es. s sic sis sts oheleuenemene 25-27 WIG AS: Cas ocean chs nv ees Sis tore en ao 68-134 Brenehi (Claiss:« ic. << ss eueisuce oe reeeterere denne 20 CLASSIFIED INDEX 7 Brom HareAway ALIAS Kas ci. sis 0 6 wees 173 From the Sandwich Islands......... 180 IO GUN ee CHE we EVE Noyiere)ataieleraustal'sia sala) elats 158 Food—Good and Bad for Ducks....189 FEO ME TEV EME Ss ele) ie) eve o 9 o's avieaunijel ealevendie 33 Horcmesthe Moult.s.< i esiwne ei earae 144 Hern FOLD MeEeGiNe 0... 5.00 dees 75-142 . G ening: (Cl GS Sa ean RCC cio oir ee one 21 BC SO Ue checieiehria eke oie seis bc Sauces «oe LOQET OZ REE SOM ATO DUGCICS i oie cc's ac a cw.leteue: eesavene 176 General Care of Turkeys... ..6.6. 183 eciIMne EeNS: TOO WAY... cc cc es clots 152 Getting Ready for the Show........ 93 PAZ VIOLAS 3 cits sielea cc oleiies ce Qa liod JSLE SS BISA CEA BS nese ne OATS cone Bee 145 Samscomtecvwime: I ulletsc oto sec cum ee cas 151 Good Raition for Ducks... os scec sa: 190 EET OM DIMES s 6 elec ee sevens © ccmlste ners 12 meeNe WOO.) fp... kts 26-83-140-143-145 \SHELE "ea als VAR Gi 4-02)h os Caneel Cee InC Raa ne 65-145 H BESET TIS OUD SS a siane Melelere lewis sige des 21 BEPeAM Me NILA Ny crewed wrarvasteces se useeiol a ataare oe 44-46 Hatching With Incubator and Hen. .156 PAE MEe DoT UICC Sizes wisreisvare'e soe cbs state 106 iatehinge’ Turkey Mgegs......6..5.... 186 We TG MET CE rare’ cracsickonere arene Ghose avenel a aretiee 135 Aerie Dr OUD Lek, sis secon) Cote seen 0 oan 122 elimina the EaAtchi...: ues sok een ee 158 hemorchacse. of: Oviduets..% 6... 62. 128 Hen, Chemical Analysis of.......... 3 Hens, Rations for a Dozen..... 0). 36 WMenpecked Husbands............... 174 LEa In SGI A ee, DRREIe Oe Bae rreas nite een 29 HVODDEF pMCCMIN GS @ .\c.0)cais,¢'s septs 2 59 140 Houses— Mae I 7 ELEN S oe isa, hark okenoereetevele Kakee 9 CLOW AMEN UO WilSireie cals s dee sre wie ste ules 9 Hresh Air or Open, Hront........ dee | MSL TOOL cna chscrateiehess! score ee acters o 9-11 IE St) LECCE SI LES ed fave coe eieihertie che otis i0a MOTOS T Ae steal Ghoed Gators e’ chard ceateMece eee wee is; SETURL ENN caeha tata ede se chints ie So Goev ete en ake 14 PRCHWY Td TO reve vel a dicuene oust aha tévanch cwttre ovale 74 OSIM Se") "OHICES ho Ss Tak a Bele sis Viele 162 How Many on Two Acres........... 164 Elica waeWbatiy "DONIS sc os «ele vee lee cle avene ie 187 Rone ON CEOs & = 5 wid cso havent alsin, e ess ee 26 iow to. Make: Ne@StS. ck cece cad 4] EMD), (DH EMSEIVES cas « dee eel eieisl ale cle S15) I DMEM RG STMT CLL 5 v5" mace aah ened ereyer Sea) aE iw bok 161 ineubator Chicks, Dying... 2.5... << 159 MEL COL eT Cit o:4. 61.4 ale aitev shake ters) ols laye 190 CEU ALOU Si sas el iwore to) < ictaWelarerci oe olanens enatte 38-46 Incubation—Testing Eggs.......... 38 mietbation owith: lens. 5... 2.25 ..6\0- 41 inereasine. Sizelof Wes. ve... oc es 166 MPO SEVOMM Ss ccsycustetererere a, cso aieneca sy 122-190 Indigestion and Liver Complaint...123 BST ERIS ELL WAMM ans fay elomere ei treleie te eneiaei's ‘sive slteud) ate 156 igiiammacion “Of, Crops = «cect so. os: 123 LUM VTIZE RS Sane Sesiseel ans aan von een ae 124 RRS CCl CALEY ce sii tayo) en cicial o eke okt athe) Ge there ars 44 RISE CLS Momctets fens edhe) cna. kavtiait-ccuistis siete Mel one 68 MMCeS ina ie WiOPOiS. nes «scale e.see eas WaT) K Keep Turkeys and Chicks Separate.183 Keeping Eggs for Setting.......... 148 Merosene MmuUlSION. . 6.6. seme 69-134 L Meeks OLF ORV SOM s. sisi clare tes otavene. oie la ew taus 157 ETAT Ce EL CUD ier ta rotiet Mae to irctan ote aiahehoraraialy 5. 6m 115 marvest. White: BEES eo. od. ees we 152 Sear NV UI ts sar cece ier eis sis uslere« @'si4) 6px) a's ey 155 Neeru) SOL TO MTLE Sin, a eeeccis © oss elas ae 142-146 Laying Hens—Ration for.........29-35 MES + WipalenesSerane cert selon eeys ates 125 WCC SS ee eee 4 b= 6940 ha 119 ab oaW ofo} Ne) lee Boer hy ie ae ce 125 ittles Dirkey ses) yiniecesy ss .e.0 Lele oe 187 iver Comin ainicerteee caer ee 123-124 Liver Complaint in Turkeys....101-188 iVerNlarS Oder saricce. oe Wee 127 Location of Incubator... 55.......% 47 Lumps on Turkey’s Head........... 184 M VFA GRRE IGG to. 6A tin cachet ee 26 Management of Poultry............ 163 NESTLE ener setts ord Seca) te SL 126 Mamisin pk @HIiCkKg 1.2. +2. ee ee 45 Dare Cen Sie Spe Lk siciy 2. | 5 | Seen 30 Meine tea GO Gin ey ot,charot sic cee 144 Ma's HS VSUCUIN cise Wis): eee ”. 34-140 DU ENN OESES = eps Sais ame Goda Eee Wage okt 27 Mating vand Breeding was. odes ae 165 Mating Brother and Sister.......... 165 Mating Parent and Ofisprins.).). oo 165 UGE: (SO ORISPROG SOO Ce ne Ee Seis 139 Mediterrancanw@lassrc, saeenen. alee 18 Methods"of Meeding.......-0.6... 008 3 MIME ESCO, oc. aeons lala Es cae 145 VIREO Fy aovae Pex cael Mon Maree aes. SR ae 144-146 Miscellaneous Questions and NTS WOT Sey ieee ene es Gane ae 170-171 MURS pets fates «fe aa nie) eRe OE 68-135 Missin e* ch GOdist |: vaae. ei aa oat te ee 143 IMHO TIO 3. Serer a Neeser ay ey Er cree 123 More Aboube Duriceyss sans ee 100 Moni tines Seasone . = J cee k 76-154 Mouths’ “Red)-and)iSorey. os, woo. noe. Davy, Movin: Houses saig2 0. ha se eee tae 163 Emmplsin (S66dS sie so Ae ee ne 146 Mushroom Houses..... 161 N Nak eds Chick sesin. soit cate ae 126 ING GU CISm Wai ares ass ce eG eT Naturaleincubationn. ness ae 41 INECK Si Sauirrmbceis sec eek. LAE 123 INGO aM Roni cian iAe Laces ete aes 186 Neer OUST LYOUbTe) css: poe eee 126 NeSts for Laying. os awoeee | cane 2 Nests form Settina.: eee. e 41 Nothing in Tigi. O25 hes che! 174 ING VETUNGSES Matin onc ancora aa. 153 Number on Mive Acres. .46 sense 164 O One Dozen Laying Hens—Ration for 36 Operating, Incubator sqs. seme aoe 4 Original Fowl, Feed and Habits 26 Orpington Class o.ea wok eae. Lae 19 Ovariagiiel umMOr sis cee ciate ents enkee 128 OVGr=Hat Elen Sracd suis. scien eeee 150 OverSElGa ted) \ cies: bcc Soctina ee hates 126 Oviduct), Hemorrha sce: sc..eccws oo 128 P Paimitime ELOUSES }.\ «0 sseunerentes 156-159 ETO DOL y EMVIVE CG wivis cs es vss atabenenere Wes anaarele 58 Preparing tO) vElateh.. «\sisndeyeteraes stale 47 Preparing Show Birds Without PVVIEUST ETN Ete “crete, o: ay ac cceemeteneteharcten scanewslits 94 PYeESEr Vine MESS. adaiaccce shee sell eie ae 84 PROD ST FE OOO acc: sa) sel tu akerencidenel cratapecran es a PEO RELI cere tiene «4h awecomae one Sans Suaurna cue e ie 33 Promina POLSON: «cee. «ee oc ed 124-13 8 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY -BOOK Pulling Feathers........---+++++++: 122 T Purple) ‘COmMp os. = = tee pie see o oaepe 116 Tape-Worm in Turkeys............ 185 Teaching Chicks to: Roose. .......:. 59 Temperatures ELabe him ey. se. ci). alete 49 Quantity to Feed....-...... 141-143-144 Testing Hggs...............27-38-43-49 Questions and Answers.....-+.+++: Ile yey MALO eS oaoh oases) Oa Ges otey 510.0 py oldie) hae 39-158 Questions of Beginners.......-+--+-- 167 nro atASOre. cs se. hie iene eke tamara 118-13 TCHISS | SSRN SrepiaPooicee ave lt Misweal as el aes 68-136 R ee IBEW Uae oe leRe ayo pah eipoRen hy Sleacro cock 3) 120 J chy RY OO Ch RR SURE et 3 058 MOMMA ETOCS Sec i-y-reee ee oie = =) unis! eae 142-183 mations Be eed sak eae 35-140-141-146 Tonic and Ration............-...... 147 Rations During Moult............-- 78 Town-Lot Wowls..............-+.-. 13 Records, Keeping.....--.+.020seees 43 Trap Nest...........0eeeeeee cence 61 AGLI Da bine . oops aie node ele tetra letabeae (toh) “Dui bulaGiomy per ase oe) -be = lee 128 Fed AW OTMIS:.; ...°- asi seek eee nore 137 Trouble With Incubator............ 160 ; 93-141-145-148 AMID OLegulOSUS < nsicters ev cus suscoiayg) ele eee 132 ved (Pepper. ..-..+.-.+.. 123-1 i, peat Requirements in Feeding.......... 23 umor ...... cee meee cern c eee 127-128 PU SuUMMatiSii seco + otelse 116-129-130 Turkey Questions and Answers. +2188 Roasters, Breeds for.........+..:-- 23 Turkeys oo... eect e eee eee ees 22-95 Roeostine, Meachime s+... >. pose tet 59 Turkeys with Bad Cold............. 184 APO ts gt oe esne. tole bin tees) etyecarm 71-129 Turkeys Dying.................-055 183 lonipy. Gaiters iaswiem cr. mies se re erase 130 Turkeys Have Chicken Pox......... 183 TExonsb stoke AAAI elo BO mao memo el Oe 1370 ume ys Wacky Green HCed) | snes 185 FTA APO UCase os oe ae Pereecaens ecu 131. Turning Hggs........--. eee eee eee 48 Rinninge Bowels. ....<).+ 20. ees 183 ‘Two Questions About Ducks........ 190 Ss U Sales “RRA ULOUS . .1- pe we 0 eaieeress sel snsiene SDa HULCETS TS Shree meee cieetrcae al nse ee 132 Sprint Leelee el Ais eemai ora ola a oeoiernio. cesaotaig io 13 “Shp CALAIS EG ire terewene ous ieee os eae he Serateline PenSiiin jou cs + os 30 141 Selection of Breed...............6-. =) 28 i Selecting Eggs for Hatching........ 47 V S(elutirattpoe a Hesasios arta aare clercce ar won © > 42-157 VMalievORAERCONO MIG oe e+ = ic eae snes 80 Sewere: Glirimalt Ceres cfs ieneeieist snes») oaamanete 174 INE TIOTICS. (Ol, OiCkSiys aye. rice iskepetesete 104 Shipping Turkeys............-.-.-- 186 Maniety itouChooseis. mates . scaseuenoners 15 Shipping Young Chicks.....,......- 172 Warietys Of SELOUSES piacere): lotciesctt remote alal Show Birds—Preparing Them....... 93 WManieiys Of TOMESTIONS ee eit cee ened 179 Ko GeO LCT oer cus evolelepauele opetaache seeweretens 185 Ventilation) in Elouses. s3-%).p rin oes 162 Sickness Cause and Cure... . Sst. 115 WiGTRTEO wh Stake ai sretsieis voce sere eee oe si a eS Loe Tearing VBI ixcinw Otc cree -Aieueusnor oe leke neers tamansuemee 146 Visor MNGCESSaTy. can stale 8 chiens = eneeeets 26 Sneeze ...... ms CARES ok ACHR CO Olen c.C.0 ee Soft Shelled Sal avn leo cuenede ites epee SR OMMENVES tbe cir cesnee oe Ae. eee 131 W Sormew Moot. an. Ur Keyan: «tienen: ohetene 185 AM AUST Hay Shech cme luted) eR Gmc mest cre yo 167 Sys, MM ai ao eet BAe mioke colores cnr oi 5 $5 118-1381 Warts on, Comb and Hyes.. 2... .o.e. 121 SOP es clin NS COC Sa iajeisvelass ore cdalemeyet Nel meas 147 WiraGer eiGilars Sec, ore vc clei hatreds telah ean Ted SD CCKs Ole LOO. sie ecetara ch evel theyale le) Cakes 130 Weight of Ducks at 10 Weeks...... 191 Spoiled T WOO ss ci aiw.dtne eo cle wile oleate 82 Weights—Standard .............. 18-22 Spray. for POuses/c 0... s.ceheme a eneneiertets 138 Wahaik, toy Do GanidiELoivis- lets 2 eke erates 168 Sprouted) searlewerctes olen. © + nieenens 143-147 WVA OAL atte Bibtateta chacaccteteltar chase terece ches 142-148 Syoutoyenneve (MORN Sa = es Clerics a oc 143 Wihlien, GO CAPONIZE rs 4 asi.) ener VR cae 88 Starving Process—Moult............ 76 Which Breed and Specialty......... ues Siotelicey Nea nie IGE ISS Syphon pointe, Loo a0 134 ‘Wihite) Combes acs eral. .0 0 3) So eee 10533) GGG) BESINUS@tetsycrs slate hi tele cusses «i crctietans al l5} IWihite “Dre WO Ca eins oles atone nee Bd SHOVE O saya Pee) lie tenenen nee 9) «) oileleelinas 150 Wihitewash for ElouSes. <<... >) «cas sue 162 Sima wi Ory Pe iSee sae ielixs cisteyctel sve cke ah orate 30 VA Stato pet ING ees, cial s)< or siel enone 163 Styek- mp; Weis a eeesetsaeis inatere el enehe 56 VEIL ST OO ee ane aicisist sis ete gee Aid S53 SMOCEMN MVEA LHe gece eee; shots ss testayer catch «, aaaeate 152 AWMo eran hey LASS hues + Secereen Grele eroncicl cage 136-137 Saimmmuer: VViOM ae ators m caie oe siete e rajie ol(stepayee Dil Wrone Meeding of ‘Ducks........... 189 Sumshine Wand. Shader sys e+ «elutes totes 57 PO MET. ICEL o cieteisimis es cin Wille elle sec eva teltane 116 Se istied dit tee Mat. yee dwn See 130-131 Y Saree HISTO Si tie feeds elois statstte fol dee ions es ted Marr aie ECOOl sr cs son ster ate letelieteve eneietec, echiae ats 164 Symptomssoef Grit Craving. .....2..2 67 Mellon VSliStenrsiun wircst tae \ Telia eins iA The Name The Place The Sion ncuBAraR Co. | HENRY ALBERS CO. Dek AWE Ce acronegs:| paar Loe sewwrere | 534 South Main Street Los Angeles, Cal. We Carry in Stock Almost Everything MRS. BASLEY RECOMMENDS In Her $1.00 Poultry Book LOS ANGELES INCUBATORS Record Breaking Hatches AND ARE GUARANTEED THE THE Mandy Lee ACME New Model Is the only ROUP Matek Eauiped CURE Chas. A. Cyphers - with a is Moisture Guage Guarantees d Most Popular Hot- Air Incubator in theU. S. Relieving the operator - of all Guess Work POULTRY SUPPLIES Green Bone Cutters Lee's Lice Killer Peerless Egg Food Shell and Grain Mills Lee’s Egg Maker Peerless Scratch Food Alfalfa Cutters Lee’s Germozone Peerless Chick Feed Garden Plows Lee’s Stock Conditioner Peerless Beef Scraps Spray Pumps Devil’s Dust Granulated Milk ‘Powder Bellows Thermometers Ground Bone Union Lock Fence Leg Bands Ground Charcoal Dninking Fountains Granite Grit Alfalfa Meal Feed Troughs Ground Shell Bird Seed Send For Free Catalogue -Henry Albers Co. 534 So. Main Street, Los Angeles, Cal. Common Sense Poultry Houses The poultry business is one of the most fascinating as well as the most profitable, considering the amount of capital invested, in the West. The conditions here, however, differ so greatly to those in the East and other localities that the ways of treating the fowls must also be different. The needs of fowls do not vary, the resources of the places do and the success of the poultry raiser greatly depends upon adapting the conditions of the locality to the need of the fowls. Nothing is more important than the proper housing of chickens. The style of house a man builds for his birds will depend upon his means and inclinations. It is not always the most expensive house that gives the most eggs. In planning poultry houses and yards two or three principles should be firmly held in mind: First, the house must have a liberal supply of oxygen, which can only be supplied by perfect ventilation; secondly, it must be. free from draughts and be dry, and, thirdly, be easily accessible to the at- tendant not only for cleaning and spraying but to enable one to handle the fowls when on the perches. It should also be large enough to avoid crowding of the fowls. The laying hens should be kept in yards in permanent houses, easy of access, whilst the young and growing fowls will do best on free range with movable ‘houses, called sometimes colony houses. These give the best results. After many years of experience here the writer has found that there are two classes of houses admirably adapted to the needs of the fowls and to this climate. These are called the open front or the ‘fresh air” house and the “musliroom” house. What is meant by an open front house, is a house enclosed on three sides and roof with one side open to the fresh air. This style house can be con- ln. PLVSHROOM HOVSE VSED IN CALIFORNIA 10 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK structed as a separate and movable house or as a continuous and scratching shed house. A plain open front house without a scratch- ing shed attached, is used in many places as a colony house where fowls ‘have free range or where they are kept in an orchard. The “mushroom” house is built tight on four sides and roof, without any floor and is raised from the ground about twelve inches. Cuts of both of these styles of houses will serve to show their construction. \ \ Open Front House Without Scratching Shed. A “fresh air” house that proved excellent and which I used for years on my ranch was one hundred and twenty feet long and ten feet wide. It was divided into six ‘houses with scratching pens. I also had another which suited me well. It was eight feet wide and a hundred fet long; besides that I had twenty colony houses for the young and growing stock, and two brooder houses. The continuous house and scratching shed of which I give a View of Mrs. Basley’s Continuous Fresh Air House and Seratching Shed. photograph and part of ground plan were built of flooring, tongued and grooved. The other house was of boards, battened, and the colony houses of resawed red wood or of shakes. Some were of rubberoid or building papér. Many of the artistic looking house plans which may be found in poultry books were planned by men who never owned a chicken, COMMON SENSE POULTRY HOUSES II and if built in this, or in any other climate, would be highly unsatis- factory. The plans here described have all been used either by myself or by successful poultry raisers. I ‘have seen them all and can assuredly recommend them for use on the Pacific Coast. The houses I am describing are of the inexpensive kind, for so great is the variety of plans of houses designed for fowls that it would be impossible to mention them all ina short article. We will, therefore, consider only a few of the cheapest and most satisfactory small houses adapted to this climate. The first requisite in the house is pure air. To secure this the iE /0OFT amen La S @ ra! Perches Al FM sis ai on 33 no a =I 83 RE as a 5 Sane: pa one on ® se f] as ica] ao ° = - > ia oo ~ om ao es OB Fn) Z f= ete be a} n =o = = @ 5 om £2 90. oe sla aH. eos om 2 O = oes a ree [$e HOW aa S i = as ventilation must be at the bottom. Some people think that the bad air ascends, but this has been proved a mistake,—the foul gases descend; the pure air and the warm air are lighter and they rise and we want to keep them in, but if we have an opening for ventilation at the top or near the top of the house we lose the warmth. A loss of warmth at night in the winter means a loss of eggs, or more food is needed to supply this loss. The ventilation should either be at the bottom, or one entire side of the house should be left open. A Variety of Houses The accompanying rough little cut of a “mushroom” house will give some idea of the bottom ventilation. Houses like this were 12 MRS: BASLE YS PODER Y (BOOK used by a successful poultry man. He made a light frame five feet square and five feet high. This he covered with canvas and the roof he made of rubberoid roofing. He left a space below of ten or twelve inches. These ‘“‘“mushroom” ‘houses were tipped over every day to be sunned or cleaned. I improved upon his plan by making a door of one whole side, for I wanted to be able to handle my fowls at night without tipping the house over. Perches should be placed about twelve inches above the open space, and in the case of heavy breeds a small ladder or run board should be placed for them to reach the perches easily when going to roost. The advantages of such a house are its lightness, and the free circulation of air without draughts on the fowls. These houses can be covered with matched lumber, shakes, canvas, burlap, rubberoid, or even common domestic muslin, which may be oiled or painted with crude petroleum. The open front house is admirably adapted to California climate. It is now meeting with favor even in the rigorous climate of the Holbrock’s Canvas Covered Mushroom House. East, where poultry raisers begin to realize the value of fresh air without draughts, if they want to have vigorous hens that will lay eggs in the winter time. I have been using the open front houses of various sizes for over twelve years and can assert that they are the only kind I ever want to use. Another style open front house that I have seen and like very much is fifteen feet by eleven feet six inches, and is seven feet high at the back and four feet at the open front. It is constructed of rubberoid or malthoid and is almost vermin proof. It is divided in the middle by chicken wire, so form- ing either one house or two as required. The roof is first covered with two-inch chicken wire to support the rubberoid. At the bottom of the walls next-to the ground it is boarded up for about two feet all the way round; this is to keep in the straw, for all the floor space of the house is used as a scratching pen. The sides and back above these boards are made of panels of rubberoid nailed to light frames without the chicken wire. These panels are taken down on COMMON SENSE POULTRY HOUSES 13 all fine days to sun and air the house. The panels are kept in place by large wooden buttons. The front is entirely open or only closed by chicken wire except when it rains, then a burlap curtain is let down. The perches are near the back of the house about six inches above the dropping boards. The dropping boards are made of the rubberoid on frames. They are four feet wide and are placed on cleats two feet from the floor. This is a double house and each side will hold from twelve to twenty hens. The above description is of the Hoffman house pictured below. A cheap and substantial house can be made of two piano boxes. The simplest way to make such a house is as follows: Removing the backs of the piano cases, place the cases back to back thirty inches apart, on light sills. Use the boards which were the backs to fill up the thirty inches on the sides and roof; cover the roof with rubberoid or with oil cloth and you have a comfortable house, that will hold about a dozen or twenty hens, at a small cost. The front of the piano box house should either be hinged so it can FP “Sot RUBBEROID OR OILED MUSLIN PANEL LR RAL SLR KOEN Q ae ae a ie we Hoffman’s ik am Front House and Scratching Pen. always be kept open except during the rain or it may be entirely dispensed with and a burlap curtain used to keep out the rain. The cost of this piano box house is about three dollars. Inexpensive Colony Houses’ An inexpensive colony house is pictured on page 10. This house is of resawed redwood, four by six feet. It is light and easily moved. The front is on hinges and it is always kept open except during rain, and when it is closed it only comes down six inches below the perches, leaving an open space of about fifteen inches across the entire front. Still another style of colony house and one well adapted for use in an orchard or in the colony plan has beén in use for some years on a large poultry ranch in California. The house is eight by ten feet and two feet to the eaves; all the framework, including the runners, is of two by three inch stuff, and the walls and ends are 14 MRS.) BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK of one by twelve inch boards, shiplapped so as to avoid using bat- tens. The rafters are five feet four inches long, and three pairs are used; a one by six inch strip is run all around the outside of the roof to form the eaves and also to make it tight; eight pieces of one by four are used for sheathing, and the sawed shakes are close so that there is no draught from that source; the only opening is from the front which is open at all times. The houses do not require cleaning, for they are on runners, and are slid along about fifteen feet each time. Thus they are on fresh ground and much cleaner than one could do it in any other manner. Painting the Houses For painting the houses I have found nothing better than the crude petroleum. I add to it for all my houses, red Venetian paint mixed‘ with a little kerosene or distillate oil, to thin it. This colors them a handsome chocolate. Creosote stain of a dark green in also a very good color, harmonizing well with the landscape, and both of these are preventive of mites and keep their color well for several years. A good whitewash also is quite suitable. The color is a matter of taste after all, and I am only describing the inexpensive methods I and others have successfully used. The whole plant, irrespective of size, should be planned symmetrically; the houses made all alike and placed in line; the large in one row and the smaller in another and all arranged so as to save as many steps for the care-taker as possible. A little forethought in this matter at the beginning may save many steps and dollars later on. Week’s Portable Canvas Houses. What Variety to Choose “Poultry for profit” is the slogan. We are all looking more or less for the “almighty dollar.’ Every week, almost every day, I am appealed to for information as to which breed is the most profit- able. I can and often do tell which breed I have found the most profitable in the twenty years I have bred, but I cannot decide for another person what his or ther likes or dislikes may be, nor can I tell what poultry will suit another’s location or market. That, each one must decide for ‘himself or herself, and then get the best of that breed to start with. A. hint as to what to start with may help some of our readers. First of all study your market, decide whether it requires a brown a, inch itt, a SN Wb, SANG PS: E> Ot Ale Fy Sy eG = Ae SIGE — ‘ = Be fee fig ™ ’ a Poe PN ee Be Te. ; Barred Plymouth Rock Cockerel 16 MES. BASEE YS (POURERY “BOOK or a white egg and choose accordingly; secondly, decide what you will do with the surplus chickens, although this may seem like counting the chickens before they are hatched. Will you sell them as broilers and fryers or use them as roasters or capons? Thirdly, it is always a good plan to look ahead and choose a breed with a prospective value and demand—one of the breeds that may be rare in your neighborhood, or one of the newer breeds, such as Silver Laced Wyandotte Hen. the Orpingtons, Columbian Wyandottes or Favorelles. Choose a breed for which there is likely to be a large demand for eggs for hatching and for breeding stock. Or else take one of the best old breeds that you know will make you money from the start. What- ever breed you decide upon get the best of that breed, and from a reliable breeder. Different Breeds A brief review of the different classes and breeds of domestic fowls may be of use to beginners. There are a large number of WitAT VARIETY LO CHOOSE 17 breeds in this country suitable to any branch of the business, with all colors of plumage and size. Some especially adapted to the farm, others to closer confinement, as on the city lots, and still others—like the beautiful little bantams—adapted to lawns and front yards. The American Class The American class consists of what are called the dual-purpose fowl. That is, they are good for market as well as excellent layers, so when their day of usefulness in the egg basket is over they can end their existence on the table. This class gives us the Barred, Buff and White Plymouth Rock, the Silver, Golden, White, Buff, Mrs. Basley’s White Plymouth Rock ‘Snow Queen.’ Layed 225 Eggs in 9 Months Silver Pencilled, Black, and Columbian Wyandottes, the Single and Rose Comb Rhode Island Reds, the Buckeyes, the Black, White and Mottled Javas, and the American Dominique. Of the list no doubt the Barred Plymouth Rock is the best known and most popular; it may be said to lead the American class. Next to it in popularity is the White Plymouth Rock. This breed led in numbers at.a late show in Madison Square Garden in New York, which is a sure indication of its popularity. The order of the rest might be given as follows: White Wyandotte, Rhode Island Reds, Buff Wyandotte, Buff Plymouth Rock, Silver Wyandotte, Partridge Wyandotte, Golden Wyandotte, Buckeyes, American Dominique, Black Java. ° 18 MRS. BASLEY’S /POULTRY *BOQOK The Sereied weights of the above are as follows: All of the Plymouth Rocks, cock, 9% pounds; cockerel, 8 pounds; hens, 7% pounds, and pullets, 6% pounds. All of the Wyandottes, cock, 8% pounds; cockerels, 74%’ pounds; hens, 614 pounds, and pullets, 5% pounds. The Rhode Island Reds, cock, 84 pounds; cockerel, 7% pounds; hen, 6% pounds; pullet, 5 pounds. Buckeyes half a pound heavier except pullets. The Javas are of the same weight as the Plymouth Rocks, and the American Dominiques, cock, 8 pounds; cockerel, 7 pounds; hen, 6 pounds; pullet, 5 pounds. The Mediterranean Class In the Mediterranean class, we have the Single and Rose Comb Brown, Single and Rose Comb White, Black, Buff and Silver Duck- wing Leghorns; the Black and White Minorcas: the Blue Andalu- sians, the Black Spanish, and Mottled Anconas. The Mediterranean class is particularly well adapted to the cli- A Flock of A. H. Memmler’s Columbian Wyandottes. mate of California, which greatly resembles that of their home in the old countries. In point of popularity and merit, the kinds might be classed as follows: White Leghorn, Brown Leghorn, Black Minorca, Blue Andalusian, Black Spanish, Rose Comb Brown Leghorn, Rose Comb White Leghorn, Buff Leghorn, White Minorca, Anconas, Silver Duckwing Leghorn and Black Leghorn. The Black Minorca, White Leghorn and Black Spanish give the largest sized eggs. All of the Mediterraneans have white shelled eggs. There is no, standard weight to the Leghorns. They are small birds, weighing 3 or 4 pounds. Of the Black and White Minorcas, the cock weighs, 9 pounds; cockerel, 7%4 pounds; hen, 7% pounds; pullets, 6% pounds. The weights of the Andalusians are, cock, 6 pounds; cock- erel, 5 pounds; hen, 5 pounds; pullets, 4 pounds. The Black Spanish weights are, cock, 8 pounds; come 6% pounds; hens, 6% pounds; pullets, 5% pounds. These lay an extra large handsome white-shelled egg WHAT VARIETY TO CHOOSE 19 The Blue Andalusian has the unique distinction of wearing the national colors—red, white and blue—its plumage being blue, its face and eyes red and its ear-lobes white. The Asiatic Class The Asiatic class consists of the Light and Dark Brahmas, White and Black Langshans, the Buff, Partridge, White and Black Co- chins. In point of popularity, they would be about in this order: Light Brahmas, Black Langshans, Buff Cochins, Partridge Co- chins, Dark Brahmas, White Cochins, White Langshans and Black Cochins. The standard weights are: Light Brahmas, cock 12 pounds, cockerel 10 pounds, hen 9% pounds, pullet 8 pounds. Weights for Dark Brahmas are: Cock 11 pounds, cockerel 9 White Plymouth Rocks. pounds, hen 8% pounds, pullet 7 pounds; Buff, Partridge and White Cochins, cock 11 pounds, cockerel 9 pounds, hen 8% pounds and pullet 7 pounds; Black and White Langshans, cock 10 pounds,- cockerel 8 pounds, hens 7 pounds and pullet 6 pounds. The eggs of all of the Asiatic class are a dark brown. _ The English Class The English class is composed of the White, Silver-gray and Colored Dorkings, the Red Caps and the Buff, Black, White, Span- gled and Jubilee Orpingtons in both single and rose combs. ‘The White Dorking weighs as follows: Cock 7% pounds, cockerel 6% pounds, hen 6 pounds, and pullet 5 pounds; Silver-gray Dorkings, cock 8 pounds, cockerel 7 pounds, hen 6% pounds and pullet 5% pounds; Colored Dorkings, cock 9 pounds, cockerel 8 pounds, hen 7 pounds and pullet 6 pounds; Red Caps, cock 7% pounds, cockerel 6 20 MRS; BASEE YS VHOULTRY:, BOOK Goodacre’s Black Orpington Cockerel “Royal Arms.” pounds, hen 6 pounds and pullet 5 pounds; Orpingtons, cock 10 pounds, cockerel 8% pounds, hen 8 pounds and pullet 7 pounds. The French Class The French class is composed of the Houdans, Crevecoeurs, La- Fleche and Favorelles. The Houdans weigh, cock 7 pounds, cockerel 6 pounds, hen 6 pounds and pullet 5 pounds; the Crevecoeurs, cock 8 pounds, cockerel 7 pounds, hen 7 pounds and pullet 6 pounds. The Crevecoeurs and La Fleche are favorites in France, but are WHAT VARIETY. TO. CHOOSE 21 rarely found in this country, as they are not popular in the market here on account of their dark colored shanks. The Hamburg Class The Hamburg class is composed of most excellent layers, of white eggs. They are the Silvered Spangled, Golden Spangled, Silver Penciled, Golden Penciled, White and Black Hamburgs and the Silver and Golden Campines. No weights are given for the Hamburgs and Campines. The Polish Class The Polish are more of a fancy fowl. They are the White Crested Black, Golden, Silver, White, Bearded Golden, Bearded Silver, Houdan Cock Heading C. W. Bessey’s Pens. Bearded White and Buff Laced. They lay white eggs; no weights are given in the Standard for them The Game Class In the Game class, we have the Black Breasted Red, Brown Red, Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing, Red Pyle, White, Black and Birchen Games, Cornish and White Indian Games, Black Sumatras and Black Breasted Red Malays. The standard gives no weight for Games, excepting for Indian Game, viz., cock 9 pounds, cockerel 7% pounds, hen 6% pounds and pullet 5% pounds; Malays, cock 9 pounds, cockerel 7 pounds, hen 7 pounds and pullet 5 pounds. bo bo MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK Turkeys The most popular variety of turkey is the Bronze, then comes the White Holland, another splendid. variety. Among others we have the Black, Buff, Bourbon Red, Slate, Narragansett and Wild. The weights for Bronze are cock 36 pounds, yearling cock 33 pounds, cockerel 25 pounds, hen 20 pounds and pullet 16 pounds; for White Holland, cock 26 pounds, cockerel 18 pounds, hen 16 pounds, pullet 12 pounds. Ducks The Pekin is “The American Duck” with its white plumage and heavily meated body. Their weight is as follows: Adult drake 8 pounds, young drake 7 pounds, adult duck 7 pounds, young duck 6 pounds. Another white variety, very popular in England, is the rs s . My by A Pair of Beautiful Bronze Turkeys. Aylesbury. Weight for adult drake 9 pounds, young drake 8 pounds, adult duck 8 pounds, young duck 7 pounds. The colored Rouen have similar weights and plumage to the Wild Mallard, the drakes having bright green heads. Other popular varieties are the Indian Runners, both colored and white, called the Leghorn of the duck family, being rather small, very active and immense layers of fine white eggs Then there are the Buff Orpington Ducks— becoming very popular; the Blue Swedish, Black Cayuga, Colored and White Muscovy, Call and Black East India, these latter being more ornamental varieties. Geese Perhaps the easiest kept and noisiest of all our large variety of domestic fowl are geese, and where conditions are suitable they WHAT VARIETY TO CHOOSE 23 prove very profitable. The Toulouse, a large gray variety, and the White Embden, seem the most popular of the pure bred varieties, and the weights for either variety are, for adult gander 20 pounds, young gander 18 pounds, adult goose 18 pounds, young Toulouse goose 15 pounds and Embden young goose 16 pounds. Other va- rieties are the African, Brown and White Chinese, Canadian and Egyptian; these are either used for ornamental purposes or for crossing. : Selection of Breed Knowing the values and weights of the different standard breeds the beginner will be enabled to make his choice, and have no trouble in finding the proper selection. Supposing egg production is the principal object, the beginner will have to decide according to the demand of his nearest market. Boston requires brown eggs, San Francisco white eggs, while Los Angeles seems to be content with either. If you are living near iudian Runner Drake Buff Orpington Ducks San Francisco one of the Mediterranean breeds will prove the most valuable to you. The Minorcas, Black Spanish and some of the strains of White Leghorns lay the largest and finest looking eggs. One correspondent who asks for justice for the Minorcas says he has Minorca hens which lay eggs weighing nearly three ounces, and there were Leghorn eggs on exhibition in a late poultry show which weighed five. eggs to the pound, but these were from hens “bred to lay.” The Brown Leghorns and Hamburgs give many eggs—white eggs also—but smaller, which is an objection in a good market. Should broilers be the object, we should choose the White Wyandottes or White Plymouth Rocks. These latter are exceptionally fine winter layers. For roasters and capons, the Light Brahmas or any of the Plymouth Rocks are the favorites. If two breeds are wanted, we should personally prefer the White Leghorns and White Plymouth Rocks. The White Plymouth 24 MRS: “BASLEY’S (POULTRY "BOOK Rocks will give the winter eggs and the White Leghorns the spring and summer eggs in great abundance, although they may not lay as many eggs in the winter as the White Rocks. In the early spring the White Rock eggs can be set for early broilers and roasters, ‘while the Leghorns are doing their heaviest laying, and in April and May the Leghorn eggs can be set for the following season’s eggs. In this manner there will be a constant succession of eggs for market, and broilers and roasters in season. Always having something to sell means a regular income. Something to market at least once a week. A poultry and egg route and the reputation of having none but the choicest goods to offer is the secret of suc- Cess. Silver Campines. Eggs for Breeding Having chosen the breed which suits us best, let us talk on how to get the most out of that breed, for I think we are all agreed that if we keep poultry for profit, we want to make as much as we can out of it. Therefore, having got our fowls, we must treat them right. The natural instinct of a fowl is to make a nest for itself and raise a family of its own in the spring time. It never considers its owner’s profit or loss, therefore to make it answer our purpose, to develop it into a money-maker for us, we must either change its nature or deceive it. We must let it imagine that it is the time of year for nest making and family raising. We must supply it with the conditions of springtime. Our own lives are artificial and the conditions surrounding our domestic hens are also artificial, but we must, if we want success, copy as far as possible Nature’s ways with fowls and follow Nature's plans. In the spring not only do we want egg production, but we want good, strong fertility in our eggs. We want fertile eggs now, for ‘are we not prearranging to have plenty of vigorous pullets to lay those high-priced market eggs next fall? Are we not anticipating sturdy cockerels to win prizes at next winter’s shows, or to make toothsome frys or delicious roasts? Fertile eggs are now in order. How shall we get them? First we must have vigorous and healthy parent birds; we usually have healthy birds in the spring of the year, for the moult is well over and the ailments which prevail in the fall—colds, catarrh and sore throats, all classed as roup—have yielded to treatment, or the vic- tims are no more. The chickenpox, which also is a fall disease, has about disappeared, and the birds are in good condition. Eges for Breeding, Packed Correctly for Shipment, 26 MRS: BASLEY'S POULTRY, BOOK Vigor is Necessary Vigor is the first requisite for fertile eggs. To have vigor, the hens must have exercise; every grain they eat should be scratched or dug out of the straw or litter in their scratching pen. A hen that is very fat—over-fat—will not have fertile eggs and will not have strong, sturdy chickens. It is neither kind nor wise to over- fatten your breeding hens, but they must be fed the proper food for fertility. How can we decide what food to feed for fertility? Let us interrogate Nature again. The wild bird, the Gallus Bankiva from which sprung all our domestic fowls, lays her eggs and raises her young only in the spring. She only has two broods of about thirteen eggs each, but those eggs are rarely infertile. What does she eat? Principally insects and the tender green grasses or small leaves, not much grain, for the seeds have fallen and have beguu to sprout and grow. During the winter Nature has supplied the birds with grains in plenty, so they have put on fat to withstand the cold; but now there are only a few grains left and the fowls are becoming thinner, yet Nature does not starve them, only gradually changes the ration and gives them worms and larvae, insects of all kinds, for the insect life has also commenced to pulsate and develop; the buds are bursting, too, and the tender green appears and beautiful spring is here, pro- viding all the green food they can eat. How about our captive hens? In our bare back yards, with only the ration we choose to give them? Poor things; they have a natural craving for the tender green, a wild desire for the succulent insect or animal food! See, how they will fight over or scramble for the meat that is thrown to them, or for the head of lettuce! They try to tell us in their own way what they require to produce fertile eggs at this season of the year. How to Feed How shall we follow their teachings? Increase the amount. ot their animal food and give the breeding fowls more green food. How shall we do this? Increase gradually whatever animal fooa we are now feeding until from 20 to 30 per cent of their daily food is animal food. The best animal food is fresh meat of some kind; the scraps and bones left over at the market; this ground or chapped finely is the best I know of. Rabbits, squirrels, gophers, are all good fresh meat. If fresh meat cannot be obtained, you can get at the poultry supply houses granulated milk, dried blood, blood and bone, beef-scrap and other animal food. The best green food is fresh-cut clover lawn clippings, green alfalfa, lettuce, cabbage and other vegetables. The Male Bird The male bird is considered as half the pen. The germ or seed of life of the future chicken is from the male. Be sure to have the male vigorous and healthy, and see to it that he gets sufficient food of the right quality. The male bird is often so gallant that he calls up his wives and they greedily eat all the best part of the food, choos- ing first the meat or animal part, which is the most necessary for ee EGGS FOR BREEDING 27 fertility, and the husband and father of future chicks, on which so much depends, is half starved, becomes thin and light. Every male bird when being used to fertilize eggs should be fed extra, either in a pen or corner by himself, or out of your hand at least once a day. Mating In mating up the pens I have found the most satisfactory num- ber to mate is about eight or not over ten females of the American breeds to one male. From twelve to fifteen of the Leghorns or Mediterranean birds, and from six to eight of the Asiatic class to one male. Some breeders advocate using two male birds in one pen, alternating them day about, or three male birds for two pens, allowing one bird to rest every second or third day. I never did this, because I was pedigreeing my fowls, and I never found any necessity for it. Caring for Fertile Eggs Having the fertility assured, the next thing is to take care of the eggs from the time they are laid until incubation begins. Eggs should be kept in a moderately cool, quiet place; not in a draught. I always imitated Nature and turned the eggs, just as a hen would, every day, keeping them in a box either in the cellar or a large, dark, but airy, closet. Some people keep them in fillers with the little end down, but I prefer following Nature’s ways and leaving them on their side. To Choose Eggs for Hatching To choose the eggs for hatching I use an egg tester or I roll up a copy of the Live Stock Tribune in the shape of a telescope, put- ting the egg at one end in the sun and my eye at the other end. If the egg shell is speckled or thin at one end, or has thin blotches on it or is misshapen in any way or if it feels chalky to the touch I reject that egg, relegating it to the kitchen, for these eggs will not hatch. I also reject very small eggs, as they are laid by pullets or by overfat hens and if they hatch the chickens will be weaklings. The very large eggs should also be rejected as they may have double yolks and these seldom hatch healthy chickens. Above all, never sell for hatching eggs those as described above. The best eggs are ithe egg-shaped eggs, with good, firm, smooth shells and not narrow waisted. Buff Cochin Hen, oe eee 4] Sak os 0 lg : = £ Views of Ross & Tate’s Orpington Reservation. Eggs for Market The hen in her wild state lays about thirty eggs per year. Ther farmer’s average hen lays not over one hundred. On egg farms the average is 150 and some of the fowls of the “bred to lay” strains will average even more. There are 365 days in the year and I do not see why a pullet that is fully matured, that comes from an egg-laying strain, a pullet properly fed and cared for should not lay over 200 eggs per year; in fact, I have had hens that will do even better than that. I wiil admit that a hen will not lay 200 eggs a year without constant and intelligent care, and the question confronting us is, will the addi- tional number of eggs pay for this care? Also how shall we give this care and secure these results? You hear of heredity and pedigree in cows, in horses, in dogs. Heredity is as important with hens as with any other stock. Here- dity has as much to do with the success of hens as the right hand- ling.. Heredity (or pedigree) and handling must go together. The two-hundred-egg hen must be “bred to lay.” She must come from an egg producing family. No matter how scientifically a hen is fed, or how well housed, you cannot make an extra fine layer out of one whose parents for generations past have been poor layers. It is impossible to take a flock of mongrels and scrubs and get 200 eggs each a year from them, although good handling will greatly increase the yield of even mongrels. ; The different breeds require different handling but no matter what breed you have, there are three essentials to egg production— comfort, exercise and proper food. Comfort Under the head of comfort comes first of all cleanliness. A hen that has lice, or fleas, or mites, or ticks on her can not lay her full amount of eggs. You must help the hen in her efforts to make you money. Give her every encouragement to lay. Cleanliness every- where. A comfortable, enticing nest, rather dark, where she may j\ ZN TUTTO enon LOCC f SS y WMA ULL: Nest to Keep Hens from Eating Eggs. 1.—Canvas curtain slightly turned back. 2.—Curtain concealing nest. 3.—Curtain thrown back to show construction. 4.—Curtain removed. 30 MRS... BASLEY’S “POULTRY BOOK stealthily deposit her precious egg. Renew the nice clean straw once a month. Do everything to coax the hens to lay. If trap- nests are used, there should be enough of them so that the hens will not be kept waiting, for by keeping a hen off the nest she will frequently retain her egg until the next day, and will soon learn to be a poor layer. Cleanliness means a clean, sweet-smelling roost- ing place, where she may sleep undisturbed by lice or mites. Just think for a moment how in the human family a fresh, clean bed in a quiet room will court slumber. I have passed the night in an Arab’s tent in Africa that was infested with fleas, and my heart is full of sympathy for a hen that has to live in some of the mite- infested henneries I have seen in California. Under this head comes freedom from draughts. A draught in this country will give hu- ‘man beings face ache, neuralgia, earache and a swelled face. It has exactly the same effect on hens. Influenza, swelled head, roup, al- ways or almost always commence from a draught (combined with lice). Comfort means also pure, fresh air without any draught, and pure, fresh water to drink. > Exercise You know how in the human family exercise is recommended. Physical culture, gymnastics, Ralston exercises, Swedish move- ments, fencing, etc., and those who may be too feeble to exercise for themselves, pay others to rub, pound and knead or massage them to get the same effect. Exercise is as necessary for the hen as for the human being and ‘more so, for the hen’s exercise of scratching develops the egg pro- ducing organs and strengthens them, and hens which exercise lay many more eggs than lazy hens. If you have a vigorous scratcher among your hens you may be sure she is a good layer. Exercise a hen must have to develop the egg-making organs. She absolutely must scratch if she is to make a living for herself and you. -I consider a scratcing pen as necessary for hens in con- finement as food. My scratching:pens were twelve or fifteen feet long and eight feet wide, but in small yards I have made very satis- factory little pens by nailing four boards six feet long together, forming a square. The boards should be twelve inches wide and _the pen filled with wheat straw or alfalfa hay or any good litter. I do not like barley straw on account of the beards, which some- times run into the hen’s eyes, nostrils or mouth and cause death. Foxtails, burr clover and wild oats are all dangerous on this ac- count. I feed all the grain scattered over the straw and my hens scratch and dig happily all day long. The straw or hay is soon broken into short pieces and fresh straw must be added about once a week and the whole cleaned out and used for mulching trees when the straw becomes dirty. It will depend upon the size of the pen and the number of hens using it. ; Proper Food What it is and how much to give. The scientists tell us that the proper food or the “balanced ration” is composed of one part EGGS FOR MARKET 31 of protein to four parts of carbo-hydrates. Before discussing this “balanced ration” let us interrogate Nature and find out how a hen balances her own ration. Let us take a hen as she comes in from foraging in the fields after a long day in summer. Let us kill her and examine her crop. What do we find? Grains of wheat, barley, corn, according to where her rambles have led her; bits of grass, clover and vege- tables; some bugs, worms and grasshoppers; here and there a bit of gravel and a lot of matter partially digested that we can not recognize. The first thing that impresses us is that the hen likes variety, and the second thing that this variety consists of animal food (bugs, worms, insects) grains and green food. This is the “balanced ration” balanced by the hen herself to suit her needs in the summer time when eggs are plentiful. If we want eggs in the winter we must, as far as possible, give the same conditions, the same variety of foods, with plenty of pure, fresh water, never for- getting that about seventy per cent of the egg is water. But to return to the “balanced ration.” We know that a hen ced eth eed ach ik whine sa ssl ah Beautiful White Eggs Layed by A. H. Wheeler’s Black Minorcas. requires a certain amount of food to keep her alive and thriving; above that the surplus goes either to making the egg inside her or to making fat. The hen is an egg-making machine but if you put into that ma- chine none of the elements of the egg, you can not expect the machine to turn out eggs. Therefore, the scientists analyzed the egg and not only that, but also analyzed the body of the hen with the feathers and discovered as follows: The very large number of different substances found in the hen may be grouped under four heads: 1, water; 2,.ash or mineral matter; 3, protein (or nitrogenous matter); 4, fat. The proportion of each of these groups alter with the condition of the hen. Water is the largest ingredient and amounts to from forty to sixty per cent of the weight of the bird. Ash or mineral matter forms from three to six per cent when the hen is not laying, and from six to ten per cent when laying. The groups called protein constitute from fifteen to thirty per cent of the weight. Fat seldom falls below six or rises above thirty per cent. 32 MRS. BASE EY S pPOULTRY (BOOK The feathers are composed of protein ,and ash, the ash being largely silicate of potash and lime. The analysis of a fresh egg shows: 1, water 67; 2, ash 12.2; 3, protein 12.4; and 4, fat 8.7. The shell is earthy matter, nearly all phosphate of lime. The white is nearly all albumen or protein and water, and the yolk protein, fat and water. It is interesting to compare the analysis of the hen and egg with some of our grains and poultry foods, but it would take more time than is permissible in a short talk. In all our grains are found more or less the elements of the egg, but they are not in the right or proper proportion for making the egg. There is usually too much’ of the fattening element in the grains and not enough protein or nitrogeneous element, which forms the meat, muscle, bone and feather. This is the most valuable and most expensive part of the ration. In order to keep up the strength of the hen and have her produce the largest amount of eggs it has been found that for every pound of protein in the food, she must have four pounds of carbo hydrates. This will vary slightly according to the heat of the weather and the needs of the hen. I wish I could go more fully into this interesting and important. subject but space forbids it. I would urge you to send a postal to the University of California at Berkeley, asking for the Farmer’s Bulletin No. 164 on Poultry Feeding. This bulletin, by Professor Jaffa, is one of the most valuable bulletins ever published. It con- tains the analysis of the different grains, vegetables and meats and of most of the proprietary foods, besides formulas for the best rations. The Victory Poultry Ranch of Goodacre Bros. Feeding in all its Phases Again I will say that the three essentials of egg production, the three essentials of profit in poultry keeping, the three essentials for vigor and health in fowls are, comfort, exercise and proper food. Let us consider (1) the proper food, (2) the methods of feeding it, and (3) recipes for a few tried balanced rations. : Practical knowledge and skill in feeding can be acquired without the study of science. Feeding fowls for good results is a com- paratively simple matter. Requirements in Feeding The food which a fowl consumes has three chief functions to per- - form: (1) To sustain life, promote life, repair waste and produce eggs; (2) to keep the body warm; (3) to furnish strength or energy which is expended in every movement. The fowl is also able to store food, not needed at the time it is eaten, for future use; this store is chiefly in the form of fat which serves as a reserve supply of fuel. Food Elements To supply the three functions in the life of a fowl there are three principal food elements: Proteins, carbo-hydrates and fat; all of these are contained in the different grains and foods used for poultry. (1) Proteins (or pretein) albuminous or nitrogenous matter. Protein is the nourishing matter, the principal tissue former, sup- plying material for bone, muscle, blood ,feathers, eggs. Its latent energy can also be converted into heat and energy, but it is more costly for such purposes than the non-nitrogenous foods. (2) Carbo-hydrates, carbonaceous matter, starches and sugar. Carbo-hydrates form the bulk in nearly all foods and are the prin- cipal sources of heat and energy. (3) Fats are found im almost all foods. They furnish heat and energy in addition to the supply from the carbo-hydrates. Fat also enters largely into the composition of the yolk of the egg. All three food elements are necessary for life. The proper com- binations of these three is called the “balanced ration”. It is, in other words, a complete ration containing in proper proportions the necessary food elements to promote (1) growth, including egg production, (2) warmth and (3) energy or strength. The needs of a fowl’s system are not always the same; it does not always need the different elements to be in the same proportions; the ra- tion properly balanced (or suitable) for a growing chick would be unbalanced (unsuitable) for the mature hen. The food to be a balanced ration must be adapted to the present needs of the fowl. 34 MRS.” BASLEY’S” POULTRY -BOOK Methods of Feeding The question of how to feed and what to feed for the best results in egg-production, is the most difficult problem in poultry keeping, and has for some time been engaging the attention of the various Government Experiment Stations in this and other countries. The two successful systems in use at the present time are the Mash system and the Dry Feed system. The mash system is one 1n which a mash is fed once or twice a day. The foundation of the mash is bran, middlings, and corn meal or chops. It is mixed wet, raw, scalded or doled: The sdrysieed . system is when a dry mash is fed, consisting of the same ingredients as the wet mash. Dry feeding is used by many regularly and is becoming more popular every year. The advantages of a mash are that by its means the food ration for the whole day can be properly balanced; the nutritive ratio varied and-controlled and the waste vegetables and table-leavings utilized to the best advantage. In mash feeding the errors to be avoided are: Too concentrated a mash with too much meat or fat; too light or bulky, that is, An Excellent Feed Hopper, Good Both for Young and Old Fowls. These hoppers are made 8 feet long and the trough is 8 inches wide and 4 inches deep with a projecting strip on top %-inch to Keep the chicks from pulling our the feed. The slate are 3 inches apart. composed principally of bran or hay; too wet or sloppy mashes or sour or mouldy. Experience has shown that feeding mashes more than once a day has bad effects, producing indigestion in various forms. The advantages of the dry-feed system are: A saving of labor to the feeder, is lighter to handle and much easier to mix. It can be fed in the morning. The fowls are obliged to eat it slowly; they cannot swallow it in a few minutes. It will not freeze in cold weather nor become sour in hot weather and the fowls will not over-eat with the dry feed. The chief consideration in dry-feeding is that fowls require about three times as much water to drink as with the wet mash; also unless the dry food is placed in hoppers or fed in boxes at least four inches deep, it is apt to be wasted. The two systems supply the requirement of the fowls in slightly different ways and both are used very successfully. FEEDING IN ALL ITS PHASES 35 SAMPLE RATIONS The rations here given have been tested and proved excellent by some of the most successful poultry breeders in this country. Ration for Chicks Intended for Breeders First meal, when chicks are 36 hours old,—rolled or flake break- fast oats, dry; give scattered on sand every three hours, then feed chick food. This is'a number of small or broken dry grains which can be bought at the poultry supply houses. The use of hard grain diet like chick feed, develops the digestive organs and keeps them healthy. The chick feed prepared by reliable firms is excellent. For those who prefer to mix their own chick feed, the following is a good recipe: Cracked wheat, 30 pounds; steel-cut or rolled break- fast oats, 30 pounds; finely cracked corn, 15 pounds; millet, rice, pearl barley, rape seed, finely ground beefscraps or granulated milk, dried granulated bone, chick grit, ten pounds; granulated char- coal, 5 pounds. In the chick feeds wheat, oats and corn are the staples, the most necessary part of the ration. Feed at six a. m. chick feed scattered in chaff; 9 a. m. rolled or stell-cut oats; 11 a, in. green lettuce; tp. m. chick feed; 3 p. m. green feed, lettuce, clover or potatoes chopped fine; 4:30 p. m. hard boiled eggs (4 for 100 chicks, chopped shell and all, with the same amount of onions and twice the amount of bread crumbs or rolled oats or johnny- cake. One fountain of skim milk and one of clean water always before them and renewed three times a day. Very coarse sand and granulated charcoal should be always before them. Toward the end of the second week mix a little whole wheat, hulled oats and kaffir corn with the chick food, gradually increasing it until at the end of the sixth week they will be eating this entirely. Ration for Broilers For the first-two weeks use the same feed as given for the breed- ers. Third week, 6 a. m., chick feed; 9 a. m., mash, 1 part each of bran, cornmeal and rolled oats, and a little salt; mix with skim milk, making a crumbly dry feed in a small dish or trough, taking away all there is left in fifteen minutes; 11 a. m., lettuce or clover; 1 p. m., rolled oats; 3 p. m., chopped raw potatoes ; 4:30 p. m., mash same as in the morning. Fourth week, 6 a. m., chick feed; 9 a. m., mash; adding 5 per cent beefscraps or cracklings; 1 p. m., chopped potatoes ; 4:30 p. m., mash, same as in the morning. Keep grit and charcoal always before them, with skim’ milk and pure water. Fin- ish off at six to eight weeks by gradually adding from five to ten per cent of cotton-seed meal and a little molasses with the mash. Ration for Laying Hens In order to keep up the strength of the hen and have her produce the largest amount of eggs it has been found that for every pound of protein in the food she must have four pounds of carbo-hydrates. Many instances may be cited in which the rations fed to laying hens differed greatly but have been productive of excellent results pro- 36 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK vided they contain a sufficient quantity of digestible protein. The following rations have proven successful: DRY FOOD METHOD. By. measure, 2 parts bran, 1 part alfalfa meal, 1 part corn meal, 1 part rolled oats; 1 part beef-scrap or granulated milk, a little pepper and salt. Keep this in a hopper or feed box. At noon green feed, evening grain; wheat, kafhir corn (or cracked corn), hul led oats, equal parts, mixed and scattered in straw or litter in the scratching pen. Fresh water constantly be- fore them. If they run out of water the egg yield will stop. For One Dozen Hens Rations for one dozen breeding hens, American class, in confine- ment, for three days’, rotation. Monday morning—One pint and a half grain, wheat, cracked corn and hulled oats, equal parts mixed and scattered in straw or litter in scratching pen. .Noon: Cut clover or lawn clippings. Evening: Mash, 1 pt. heavy bran; 1 qt. ground oats; 1 pt. corn meal; 1-3 of the whole cut clover or alfalfa meal; 1 tablespoon each of salt and pulverized charcoal; %4 pt. beef-scraps. Tuesday morning—1¥% pts. mixed grain, wheat and rolled barley. Noon: green feed, pumpkins or clover: 1 pt. green cut bone. Even- ing: Mash, 1 pt. cooked vegetables and table scraps, 1 qt. bran, 1 pt. cornmeal, a little salt and pepper. Wednesday morning—l1™% pt. mixed grain; wheat, hulled oats, kaffir corn. Noon: Cabbage or beets. Evening: Mash, 1 pt. peas or beans soaked over night, “boiled with a little soda until soft; % pt. dried blood, or beef-scraps, 1-3 cut clover. If you cannot get beans cheaply, use potatoes or other vegetables. Follow the same system the remaining three days. Sunday, instead of the mash, scald three pints of rolled barley in the morning, cover and leave to steam. Feed in the evening in- stead of the mash; this makes a pleasant change and saves work for the Sabbath. The reason for feeding the mash at night is to keep the hens busy scratching all day and so send them to roost with their crops full. There is danger of the American and Asiatic fowls becoming too fat and lazy without exercise if given the mash in the morning. Fattening Fowls Fowls to be fattened should be confined in small yards or in coops or crates, especially adapted for feeding. The object in keep- ing them in confinement is to prevent the forming of muscle and sinew which would occur if allowed to run at liberty. The crate used for fattening fowls can be four or six feet long. Mine were composed of lath six feet long; the frame of the crate is 6 feet long, 18 inches wide and 18 inches high, divided into six little stalls or compartments. The frame is covered with lath, placed lengthwise on the bottom, back and top the width of one lath apart. The first lath on the bottom should be two inches from the back to allow the droppings to fall through, otherwise they would lodge on the lath at the back. The lath are placed up and PREDING IN. ALL ITS*PHASES 37 down in the front, the spaces between them being two inches wide to enable the chickens to feed from the trough. A “V” shaped trough is made to fit into two notches in cleats in front of each crate. The crate stands 15 inches from the ground; the droppings are received on sand or other absorbent material and removed daily. The coop is large enough to hold 12 or 18 young chicks (2 or 3 ina stall) or six full grown fowls. Fowls are fed three times a day all they will eat in 15 minutes. See cut of fattening crate. Formulas for fattening: (1) Equal parts of bran, cornmeal and oat meal (rolled break- fast oats) mixed with skim milk, fed three times a day. (2) Buckwheat flour, pulverized oats, cornmeal in equal parts, mixed thin with buttermilk. (3) Equal parts barley-meal, and oat-meal and a half part of corn-meal, mixed with buttermilk or skim milk. (4) —W. L. Answer—Lice are supposed to hatch out the nits every five days and when but a few days’ old commence to lay again and so keep on breeding indefinite- ly. Dr. Salmon says it has been esti- mated that the second generation from a single louse may number 2500 indi- viduals and the third generations may reach the enormous sum of 125,000 and all of these may be produced in the course of 8 weeks. I do not know of any dip that will kill the nits with one dip- ping. Dr. Salmon recommends a dip of one per cent carbolic acid solution, or using creolin as it is equally efficacious in killing insects and is less poison to the birds. It is used in the strength of two and a half mixed with a gallon of water. I have used very successfully in the summer time when the weather is warm the kerosene emulsion made as follows: Dissolve one bar of soap or one pound of soap powder in a gallon of boiling water; add to it a gallon of coal oil and a pint of crude carbolic acid; churn for twenty minutes or until you wish to use it. Take one quart of this top solution and add it to 9 quarts of water. Dip the hens into this, being careful not to allow any of it to go into their eyes or mouth, but thoroughly wet | every feather to the skin. This will kill every living louse and if repeated, in about five days will probably kill those that are hatched out in the meantime and prevent their laying any more nits. Tobacco water has also been strongly recommended as a dip, and chloro-naphtholium used as directed .on the bottle. The Sand Flea—How can I rid my chickens from a small insect known here as the sand flea? I have tried coal-oil mixed with lard without effect. The hens scratch their heads so they become sore and some have died; others have had to be killed —Mrs. F. A. F. Answer—Those fleas are very hard to get rid of. Spray the henneries well with either the kerosene emulsion or good hot salt water, and while the ground is still wet, scatter on it, air- slaked lime. Those hens that have sore heads, should have carbolated salve put on them, after swabbing them off with corrosive sublimate. This will kill the fleas and cure the sores. Be careful not to let any of the corrosive sublimate get into the eyes or mouth of the fowls. Stick Tight Fleas—We have noticed a tick or louse on a few of our chickens and have discovered some of the insects on the perches. They resemble small black beads and are firmly embedded in the skin. On some of the fowls we have used for the table we noticed a few red blotches on the skin. We would like to know how to get rid of the in- sects, particularly how to get them out of the hen-house—An Inquirer. Answer—You have the stick tight fleas in your hennery. They are very hard to get rid of, being in some places a perfect pest. A friend of mine lost 500 out of 700 chickens last fall from this. I told him to spray very thorough- ly with salt and water and he purchased 600 Ibs. of salt, scattered it all over the LICE, MITES, TICKS AND WORMS 135 hennery and yards and then turned the hose on them for several days in suc- cession. He tells me now there is not a stick tight flea on the place. I advised him to get some corrisive sublimate di- luted with alcohol at the drug store, take on old tooth brush and carefully apply with it the corrosive sublimate on any fleas he might see on the chickens, be- ing careful not to allow any of the solu- ‘tion to get into the chickens’ eyes (it would blind them) or into their mouths as it is very poisonous. You can paint the perches with this; it will kill every- thing it touches. Head Lice—This’ time I write in desperation, hoping you may be able to give me a remedy. It is head lice I am fighting, and after working for almost five months, I am as far off from being rid of them as at first. I have done ev- erything that I have ever heard of. I still find they have head lice and red mites besides. I hope no other beginner has had the trials I have had.—Mrs. W. F. K Answer—The red mites live in the houses or coops, except when they are feeding off the chickens, usually at night. The cure for them is to spray the coops thoroughly and constantly. You can keep them out of the coops by spraying once every three weeks, but if they once get in, you will have to spray twice a week until you get entirely rid of them, then once every three weeks, to keep rid to them. The head lice live on the heads of the chickens. They lay two or three white silvery nits (eggs) at the root of the feather. The eggs hatch in about five days after they are laid by the lice, consequently to completely destroy them, you should treat the chickens that have them, at least once a week. The best way I know of is to take an old tooth- brush, a bowl with nice hot soapsuds in it and a few drops of the best carbolic acid; brush the chicken’s head with this, being sure to touch all the lice and mites. This, I know, is an excellent remedy for I have tried it. Another given by a friend of mine is, get the druggist to mix some corrosive subli- mate with the best pure alcohol, take the tooth-brush and brush the chickens’ heads with this, being very careful not to let any of this get into the eyes (or it will blind them) or into the mouth, as it is very poisonous. This will not only kill the head lice and their nits, but it will also kill stick tight fleas, ticks, and any insects. It is very difficult when once the pests get into henneries or on chickens, to get rid of them. It is far easier to keep the enemy out by con- stant and thorough cleaning at frequent intervals, especially in the summer time. I find using tobacco stems for making the nests of setting hens, a good pre- ventative; besides this, I see that all the fowls have good dust baths in damp and mellow earth. Hump Themselves—I will have to come to you with my sick chickens. It seems to be chicken raisers’ only refuge. I have lost several half-grown and whole-grown. They kind of hump themselves all together, do not care to eat; do not stir around. I never no- ticed any bowel trouble; it looks to me like their heads turned dark; live sev- eral days. What shall I do?—L. H. E. Answer—It is very difficult to diag- nose a case like yours with so little in- formation about it, but from your de- scription of the chickens humping them- selves and appearing sleepy, I think they have worms. You should open one and make a thorough examination; then you will know what really is the matter. If it is worms, give them thirty drops of turpentine in a pint of water. Let them have no other water to drink for a week and I think it will cure them. Possibly they may be taking cold and very prob- ably may have lice. Examine them and dust them, and try to discover what is giving them cold. Give them a little poultry tonic and follow my directions for the general care of fowls. Mites—We are fighting mites, but apparently with no success. We hired a man who makes poultry ranch spraying a business. We paid him $10 and he guaranteed to rid the place of the pests, but they are worse than ever. He uses lime, sulphur and carbolic acid. Is there any way corrosive sublimate could be used as a spray, and would it be safe for the hens in the houses? How long would the hens need to be kept out after the spraying was done? Am having the worst possible luck with my chickens. Have probably hatched 550 chickens this year and have less than 200 now. When a week to ten days old they begin to droop, refuse to eat, and starve to death. What is the matter? No bowel trouble; no cold; no lice, or only a few. Does cholera ever attack such young chickens, and if cholera, would they not have bowel trouble? Would greatly ap- preciate an immediate answer, as the 136 MRS, BASLEY’S ._POULERY BOOK mites get all over me and drive me nearly frantic. In putting down eggs in water-glass ; must they be infertile eggs? —Perplexed. Answer—The thing that is killing your little chickens is not cholera, otherwise they would have bowel trouble; it is only the swarms of mites, If they drive you nearly frantic, think how the chicks must suffer. The mites simply drain the life out of them. The corrosive, subli- mate can be put on with a spray, but it is dangerous to do so, as if it splatters into the person’s eyes who is sprayirig, it may blind him for life. One pound of this costs $1.25 and that is sufficient to made 120 gallons of the solution. As it takes some time to dissolve in water, it is usual to dissolve it in alcohol. I have used it dissolved in alcohol to paint hen- neries and nest boxes and it will destroy all insect life. You must turn the hens out of your henneries for several hours, or until the walls are dry. The eggs need not necessarily be infertile, al- though it is better to have infertile eggs, but above all things, they must be abso- lutely fresh. One stale egg may spoil the whole crock full. Ticks—We have a pest the like I never saw or heard of, so I come to you to know what they are, and if they are common in California; they occupy every crack and crevice in the hen house, never stay on the chickens during the day, so far as I can find out, but just simply bite them at night until the flesh looks skinned in places. Now for a description of them. They are dark grey, flat and have plenty of legs. I have seen them as large as the thumb nail— Mrs. M. R. Answer—The pest you speak of are ticks. They are indeed a _ terrible pest and you cannot possibly succeed with chickens unless you get rid of them. They are very common in some parts of California. I have had specimens sent me from widely dif- ferent places, and at a large farmers’ or grange convention the subject of getting rid of them was discussed by about sixty farmers and professors of the California University and no defi- nite remedy was found. However, some of those who ‘have applied to me have by my advice used corro- sive sublimate—eight ounces to twen- ty gallons of water. Painting the henneries with this was the only rem- edy found to be effective. Kerosene, distilate, whitewash and _ everything else proved useless, but the corrosive sublimate did kill them. Care must be used in ‘handling this, for it is poisonous, and*if any gets into the eyes of the worker, it may blind him. These ticks are very much like bed- bugs, and I have seen them almost as large as and resembling a watermelon seed, after feasting on the chickens; before that some of them were as thin as a piece of paper, lying flat between the shingles on the roof where it was almost impossible to get at them. The only remedy is the persistent use of the corrosive sublimate. From Wild Birds—Some years ago mv fowls became afflicted with a round worm, also tape worms, and in one article you mentioned several remedies such as santoine, turpén- tine and tincture of male fern. I dug wp the yards and seeded to green feed but all to no purpose; it has prac- tically driven me out of business. Last Spring I invested in some out- side stock (just hatched baby chicks), but they also became infested al- though they were on new land. ._How- ever, I managed to keep down those pests by occasionally dosing the hens with the above mentioned medicines. We do not feed anything unclean to our fowls and it always has been a puzzle to me where such worms came from. A few days ago our house-cat brought home a small bird, which she began to devour on the house porch, but leaving the intestines, out of which crowled two good sized round worms such as fowls have. As we live in the woods, do you think this has anything to do with it? I am al- most afraid to start my incubators this season, as it may only result in future failure—W. E. B Answer—Your fowls undoubtedly eet the worms as the wild birds do, from the droppings or eggs of worms from the other birds. By the persist- ent use of turpentine, using thirty drops in a quart of water, or mixing it in that proportion in the food, for a week at a time, you can get rid of them. Also disinfect the ground. The only thing that I can see is for you to keep up this treatment, for a week every two months, giving tur- pentine either in the food or water. I would not be discouraged because ; { ' 6 - LICE, MITES, TICKS AND WORMS 137 that is a sure remedy and by watch- ing and noticing the droppings, you need not fail in rearing the chickens. From Pigeons—My chickens’ giz- zards are affected by red worms about the size of a pin. All the stock I raised last year seem affected al- though the eggs came from different places. J have the Brown Leghorns, Brahmas and R. I. Reds. I feed all the various grains, plenty of greens and zood meat and bone. The only thing you recommend that I have not fed is charcoal, still as chicks they Eoin tie chick “feed. ~ I have given them turpentine in food and water at various times and it seemed to have the desired result, but today I learned different, the gizzard is pene- trated and has a sore spot caused by these worms. All the stock in differ- ent yards are affected. I get plenty of eggs and the chick- ens look good, combs nice and red, nevertheless I find them all affected the same way.—Mrs. G. S. L. Answer—I have been through the same trouble myself: and so can help you. The difficulty is to find the source. I found out that my chickens were getting the worms or the eggs of the worms from neighboring pig- eons. The droppings of the pigeons contained the eggs of the worms and in a short time the droppings of the chickens also had them and the other chickens ate them and so on they kept increasing. First of all I gave the chickens the turpentine which I recommended to you. A teaspoonful in a quart of water. ‘Mix the food with that water, also put a teaspoon- ful in a quart of the drinking water and allow no other water for drink- ing. Keep this treatment up for a week. Meanwhile clean up the yards by having them either ploughed un- der or dug up and a crop of some kind planted, something that will grow quickly, such as wheat or bar- ley, and as far as possible destroy the birds that are bringing you the trouble, for I cannot but think it must be pigeons or some other wild birds. The worms will kill the young chickens, but they do not always kill the older fowls. Sometimes the worms come from unclean or spoiled food, from “webby” grains and bad animal food. You will have to dis- cover for yourself where they are getting the worms from and cut off the source of supply. Intestinal Worms—I wish a little information and advice in regard to a valuable Buff Orpington cockerel I own. He has become mopy and goes away under the trees by himself, and has lost over half of his weight in a month. He eats like a horse, though, of everything I zive my hens, but shakes his head an awful lot, as though something was wrong. I looked in his throat and it looks all right. He has changed in color from a light buff to a very dark red since acting unwell, and has grown to be a homely, dopey bird, from a real beau- tiful lively one a shore time ago.— MM. Oe Answer—I think your Buff Orping- ton Cockerel has intestinal worms. You had better give him 25 drops of spirits of turpentine on a lump of bread, or in a spoonful of water, and follow that immediately with two tea- spoonfuls of castor oil. Keep him shut up so you can watch the drop- pings and remove and burn or bury them deeply. If you do not find worms in his droppings, give him ten drops of tincture of male-fern on a lump of sugar, followed in an hour by a dose of castor oil. This is for tape-worms. Both the remedies should be given after twelve hours or more fasting. Bantam Affected—I have a little hen, bantam, in whose droppings I noticed what look like wormns. She is thin and looks like she has catarrh. Can you help her? Also a Plymouth Rock rooster who has a film over his eyes and sleeps all day, begins to take exercise about sun down; appetite fair. I feed every variety of chicken food alternating, and keep shells, charcoal and zreen food, and they are not fenced in.—J. L. Answer—Your little bantam hen undoubtedly has worms, as you see them in her droppings. Your Ply- mouth Rock male bird also has them, for sleepiness is one of the _ chief symptoms of worms in the intestines. The best cure I know is turpentine; ten drops in a teaspoonful of castor oil, after the chickens have fasted twenty-four hours. If you have other chickens and think they may have worms, you had 138 MRS: BASLEY’S< POULERY, BOOK better give the whole flock some tur- pentine in their drinking water. Thirty drops of turpentine to a pint of water. Do not let them have any water without turpentine in it for a week. Several Kinds—I am in despair and it is lice, lice, lice. We have Brown Leghorns and as they will not sit we borrowed a setting hen and she only stayed with us long enough to give our hens a supply of. grey head-lice. When we discovered them we went to work with a lice killer, sprayed the coops, ground and nests, put the chickens in a box and left them three hours. We also used crude _ oil, poured gallons on the ground, paint- . ed nests, roosts, etc., but still the lice stayed on the hens’ heads. Ib gighe week we bought six Buff Orpingtons; yesterday we found they were alive with body-lice, yellow lice, especially around the vent; there were thou- sands; then we examined the Leg- horns, found they were infected also. What shall we do? Do you think it would hurt them to wash them now with the kerosene emulsion? Am afraid it might zgive them a cold.— WMbes, (C. Syaey Answer—What I should do were I in your place would be to get some buhach powder, rub it well into the chikens’ heads for the head lice, and well into the fluff under the wings and on the backs for the body lice, then put the hens, six or a dozen at a time, into a large size dry-goods box, at the bottom of which is a newspaper thoroughly painted with a. good lice killer; cover the top of the box with a carpet and leave them in for three hours, then look them over thorough- ly and pull out every reather that has nits on it. The nits natch out about every five days, so in a week’s time, look the hens over again, powder them again, and again put them into the box painted with the lice killer. Two applications should cure them. After this, once a month, at nizht, powder them with bubach and look them over occasionally, and if neces- sary, go through the performance again. You can paint the roosts with lice killer, but do not put any in the nests, for it will not only flavor the eggs but will kill the germs and make the eggs unhatchable. The best thing to use for the nests is a kettleful of boiling water with a large handful of salt added to jit, or scalding soap- suds, putting in fresh straw, or better still, making the nests of tobacco stems. You can get these for 25 cents a gunny-sack full. Do not risk washing the hens ex- cept in the hottest summer weather. Spray for Houses and Dip for Hens —Last summer I found a recipe in one of your articles for spraying hen- houses. I used it to good advantage but have misplaced the recipe and cannot remember the mixture exact- ly. It was composed of coal oil, car- bolic acid and soap, with a certain proportion of water. If’ you will kindly send it to me | will appreciate it—_C. W. Answer—lI gladly send you the re- cipe which is excellent. JI have used it for ten years or more. It will kill fleas, lice, mites or any insect pests in the henneries. It will also thorough- ly disinfect the premises from infec- tious diseases and if used for a dip tor hens in warm, sunny weather, will rid them of lice and will assist the moult: Dissolve one pound of hard soap (or soap powder) in one gallon of boiling water, remove from the fire and add immediately one gallon of kerosene and one pint of crude car- bolic acid. Churn or agitate violent- ly for twenty minutes or until you want to use it. If the oil and water separate on standing, then the soap was not caustic enough. Add to this ten gallons of water. I keep the stock solution on hand, dip out a quart and add to it ten quarts of water and use it for spray- ing the houses once every three weeks in summer and every month in win- ter. Putting it on hot in summer and slopping it well into dark and dusty corners will kill fleas, which are ex- ceedingly troublesome on sandy soil in this part of the country. FEEDING IN GENERAL Feeding System—I am not perfectly satisfied with my feeding system and [ follow yours on the food question. I note that you advise dried blood and other food dried in the oven, green cut bone and bone meal. Would you ad- vise boiled liver, lungs and scraps in- stead of prepared meat scraps? Are ground clam shells good in place of cut bone? Could there be any danger from feeding too much ground shell? Should gravel be furnished to chickens to pick from?—D. F. Answer: Boiled liver and lungs chop- ped fine are excellent for fowls. I prefer them to prepared meat scraps. They must be fed while fresh as spoiled meat - may poison the fowls. Clam — shells cannot take the place of cut: bone. Crushed oyster and clam shells contain lime which is very good for making egg shell. There is no danger of the hens eating too much of this. Gravel or grit should always be furnished to chickens. Animal Food—I would like to know what you would suggest in the way of animal food for my Plymouth Rocks. Have only eleven hens; they have free range and running’ water. Some are laying, but I do not give any meat or blood meal. As we only go to town about once per month it is rather hard to bring out anything in that line and keep it fresh. I feed rolled barley, and lately have given them a mash of shorts or bran, and some cayenne mixed in it. Hope you will suggest something, also how would you feed them this winter? They have plenty of grass on their range.—Sub- scriber. Answer: Fresh meat is best for hens. Can you get rabbits or squirrels or go- phers for them? If not and you cannot obtain any of the good egg foods from the supply stores, in your part of the country, you might try the following, which I have proved to be excellent: Take ten pounds bone meal, ten pounds dried blood, five pounds linseed meal, two pounds sulpher, two pounds pow- dered charcoal, one-half pound cayenne pepper and one-half pound salt. Mix and keep. Put a half pint in your mash every day for twenty hens. When you feed this, feed no meat scraps and do not salt the mash. You will get the mixture right if you remember that the combined weight of the ingredients is thirty pounds. This is simple and cheap. Bad Meat—I had twelve laying hens, they averaged seven eggs a day, were healthy and never were sick until I bought five cents worth of green ground bone from a wagon that passes my-door. It was wet and slimy, and smelled, but he said it was all right. I gave it to the chickens at noon; fed them nothing else then. At four o’clock I went out and found two dying and six more droopy and by eight that night had lost eight. Next day two large Buff Orpington hens died. I looked for some of your remedies giving asafoetida pills and the soda you spoke of in the water. I showed the bones to the butcher and he said he never heard of such a thing as spoiled meat poisoning chickens. He sold it when it smelled like that all the time—Mrs. D. M. Answer: That meat poisoned your chickens evidently. It is called ptoma- ine poisoning. Butchers sometimes put formaline or some preservative on the meat which has a very poisonous effect on chickens, but yours were undoubt- edly poisoned by the putrid meat. You had better not buy any ground bone unless it is quite fresh. Blood Meal—Will you pease tell me how much blood meal to put into the mash for thirteen chickens, or in other words, what proportion for each hen?—L. S. Answer—Half an ounce per hen ev- ery day at this spring season of the year is about what they ineed of blood meal mixed in the mash. Weigh out enough for the thirteen hens and measure that in a cup or by a spoon, then you will know how much by measure. Analysis of Barley—Would you kindly let me know what the chemi- cal analysis of barley is, in its com- position? It is sometimes more con- venient to use it than other grains, and I want to know its value as a food for poultry.—F. I. D. W. 140 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK Answer—The chemical analysis of principal grains and poultry foods in California are given in full by Prof. M. E. Jaffa in his most useful Bulle- tin No. 164, published by the College of Agriculture, Berkeley, California. (This Bulletin is free to residents of this State.) Prof. Jaffa gives as the analysis of rolled barley: Digestible nutrimients in roo tfbs., protein 9.3, carbo-hydrates 59.5, fat 2.2, nutritive ratio 1. 6.9. Barley has about the same nutritive ratio as plump wheat. I would advise you to send to the di- rector of the Exeprimental Station, University of California, for the Bul- letin, 164, as by means of this little book you will find it easy to balance all your rations. Balanced Ration—Wi§ll you please send me a balanced ration for White Leghorns? I have, perhaps, 125 hens, but I get only six or eight eggs. I will thave to buy all the food. I have a half acre patch of alfalfa and plen- ty of good water; keep it running into a slatted trough all the time. Have been using white-wash with crude car- bolic acid and kerosene tor mites and other vermin. My hens roost in trees and are looking fine; plumage white and glossy, combs red, but no eggs. I have houses with good roosts in which I put my chickens from brood- ers, but in a short time they zo to the trees to roost. My hens have the range of forty acres if they wish but it is salt grass pasture.—A. C. Answer—If you will tell me what jrains and what feed of all kinds for fowls you can get the cheapest in your part of the country, I will glad- ly write you out a balanced ration, composed of those grains; this will be your cheapest plan. From what you say of your hens’ beautiful plumage I think they must be nearly through the moult. Leghorns take longer to moult on account of their close, hard plumage than the American or Asiatic breeds, and they do not lay plentifully until the new feathers are fully ma- tured. To hasten their layinz, give them! more animal food than you are doing; increase it carefully, but feed them more. The onions will have to be chopped and you will ‘have to feed them rather sparingly when the hens are laying, or they may flavor the eggs. ‘Onions are very good for growing chicks, ducks and turkeys, but must be fed sparingly to laying hens. Hens that roost in the trees are apt to get damp in the winter time, and will therefore not lay as many eggs as if they were kept dry at night. They will also need more food, consequently in this climate it is best for them to roost under a roof. Beet Tops—Will you kindly tell me if beet tops are a good green food for ducks? Also for fowls and tur- keys? Are they as nourishing as al- falfa? My hens are not laying well. The eggs have suddenly dropped off and I did not know but what the cause might be beet tops.—J. S. Y. Answer—In September one is glad to get anything green for the fowls, ducks, geese or turkeys, to eat. Al- miost anything green is better than nothing, ‘but alfalfa contains more protein than any other green food except white clover. The per cent of protein in white clover is 15.7 and in alfatfa 14.30 while in beet tops it is only 1.3. By this you will see that alfalfa is worth about 14 times as much as beet tops. There is about as much protein in alfalfa as in wheat bran. You complain that your hens do not lay. I think probably they are moulting. You cannot expect hens to lay all the time without taking aenesix Dry Hopper Method—I write you regarding the dry hopper method of feeding. How much space do you leave at the bottom for the feed to come throuzh, and how wide do you leave the space for the chickens to eat out of? We made one but its not a success, for the box is bloody from their combs hitting against it. They stand and eat all the time and do not so and drink as you say yours do.— DAS: Me Answer—I had the same experience with hoppers injuring the combs of the fowls, and now I make my hop- pers like those used at the Maine Experiment Station, simply a ‘box with a roof over it. The box 1s twenty-four inches long and eleven inches wide. The sides are cut like a gable, the highest point being six- teen inches high. ‘The gable roof keeps the food ‘dry and the hens waste scarcely any of it. The roof lifts off or can be slid back to fill it. Dry Mash—Will you kindly inform me as to the best method of feeding FEEDING IN GENERAL Ly ‘alfalfa meal to hens and pullets? I use hopper constantly filled with dry mash consisting of bran, shorts, feed meal and beef scraps, accessible at all times, and would much prefer add- ing the calfalfa to this. Or would you advise soaking it in water and feeding it separately? The fowls get grain twice a day, and now if I add the alfalfa to the mash what propor- tion shall I make it? Also, is it as well to add the charcoal, two or three per cent, to the mash or feed’ separ- ately? I wish to simplify the routine work as much as_ possible.—Mrs. O. Answer—I advocate adding the cal- falfa meal to the dry mash. It would make a very good ration to simply add one part of calfalfa meal to your present mash, mahing it one part each of bran, shorts, feed meal, beef scraps and calfalfa meal. I feed this with excellent results, but at first the hens did not like the calfalfa, so I only adddd one iron spoonful, in- creasing the dose every day, adding one more spoonful until, within a month, they were having the right proportion. You can mix the char- coal in the same way, but I prefer to keep it separate with the grit and the crushed shell. Exercise for Fowls—I was greatly interested in an article of yours on feeding. You say, give a hen a chance to work and no matter how fat, etc. Now what interests me most to know is just how you manage to give them plenty of work in a limited space. We, who occupy only a village lot, will be greatly helped if you will tell us how to keep hens busy in such limited quarters——G. P. C. Answer—To keep hens busy, give them: what is called a “scratching pen.” Put a 12-inch board across, one corner of your lot and fill that full of zoodewheat straw or hay; scatter all the irain you feed in that, and the hens will work all day digging out the grain; every grain they scratch out they ‘will bury two and so will keep up the exercise. If you are feeding the hopper method, put the hopper at one end of the pen and the water vessel at the other end; this will give them the exercise of walking back and forth. You can also hang up a cabbage for them to jump at, but scratching is the natural and. ‘best exercise for ‘developing the ege organs. Ration for Twelve Hens—I take great pleasure in reading your ar- ticles. One thing I have failed to find and that is a good balanced ra- tion; many writers say, feed a good balanced ration, but few of us new beginners know what a good balanced ration is. We are just as apt to over- feed as to under-feed. Would you kindly give me formula for a good ege ration? In giving ration, kindly state quantities of each kind of feea used in ration, amount to be fed to twelve hens, whether to be fed wet or dry, morning or night; also amount of zrain for twelve hens; in other words, a full day’s egg ration for twelve hens; when to feed, how to feed and quantity for daily ration. I have some White Plymouth Rocks, over eight months old, large and well developed, but only two of them thave commenced to lay. I feed morning mash of 2 parts bran, 1 shorts, one barley meal, one cornmeal, one alfal- fa meal, 1% blood meal. Wheat at night, about 1% pints for twelve hens; good clean yards and houses; fresh cut kale at noon.—W. S. F. Answer—The ration you are now feeding is a very good one, but at this time of the year (early spring), I would advise you to double the amount of blood-meal in the mash. I would feed the mash perfectly dry, without moistening it in the least, in the morning; the green feed at noon, and the wheat at night, or I would reverse it, feeding the wheat in the scratching pen in the morning green food at noon, and the mash slightly dampened with table scraps you may have, at night, giving the hens at their supper time, what they will eat up clean. Pullets that are ready to lay will sometimes retain their eggs if they do not have com- fortable nests; also sometimes they require a slight shock or stimulants to start them laying. I find chili pepper seeds excellent for starting the laying, or failing to get this, a teaspoonful of red pepper three times a week for a dozen hens, will often start them laying. The ration you are feeding, if you add more blood meal (or animal food) is a well bal- anced ration for eggs. 142 MRS. BASLEEY’S’ POULERY BOOK. Tomatoes—Do tomatoes tend to make the hens quit laying?—J. W. Answer—Tomatoes will not do the hens) any harm unless fed in very large quantities. There is not much nourishment to them and consequent- ly they will not improve the laying qualities; otherwise a _ reasonable amount will benefit the hens. Formula for Feeding—Your formu- la for feeding—two parts bran, one part cornmeal, one part alfalfa meal, one part shorts, one part beef-scraps —is the simplest I have ever seen, so shall try it. 1. Will the same formula hold good with hens with free range but no green food? 2. Im case they have access to fresh alfalfa hay, would it be neces- sary to use the alfalfa meal? 3. ‘Could I substitute shorts or middlings for the meal in case they are cheaper, and if so, in what pro- portion? 4. ‘Does the balanced ration keep up the ege yield during moulting or is it necessary to add oil-meal, or some similar meal during that period? —Mrs. G. H. Answer—The same formula is good for hens with no green food, but it is much better to give them green food, or roots, beets, turnips, carrots, pumpkins, or some succulent vege- table if possible. 2. No, not absolutely necessary. but I always continue the alfalfa meal so the hens may not forget the taste of it, as it is sometimes difficult to break them into the hatbit of eatirtg it. 3. You could not substitute shorts or middlings for it. 4. During the moult, add oil-meal or linseed meal, about one-fourth ot one part, to the feed’. This ripens the feathers, makes them fall out easier and grow more quickly. For Young and Old Stock—I am very much interested in your articles and would like to ask you for a little advice. Being away from ‘home all day, I have to feed in the morning enough to do all day. This I can manage for the old stock by feeding scratch food in the litter and = drv mash in hoppers. But how can I manage the growing stock? Please give a formula for dry feed. Do you consider the scratch food sold by the poultry houses good food for the young stock? My chicks will not eat the baby chick food after a week or ten days. I also give them lawn clippings or lettuce every even- ing it a handful of scratch feed to the hen once a day enough where they have the dry mash and table scraps? Is cracked corn good food to feed alone to young stock? I have Rhode Island Reds.—R. L. Answer—Your questions relate principally to the feeding of the young stock, and you do not say whether you want to keep them for fattenrnge for the table or for future egg layers. There is of course a dif- ference in the way of feeling, or rather in the quality of the food to be given to them. However, I will tell you the way I feed for egg laying. As soon as I think the little chicks will: eat whole wheat I add it to the baby chick feed, a small quantity. If they pick it up quickly I add more each day and in a few days I give also some kaffir corn or finely cracked corn. It should be finely cracked as it is difficult of digestion. When it is too long in digesting the corn ferments in the gizzard and that gives the chick diarrhoea, which often proves fatal. We never want to over- tax the digestion of a chick, so I give corn carefully. This applies to “the last question in your letter—it is not zood to feed corn alone. It has been clearly proven that chicks do better grow more quickly and mature ear- lier if they can have a great variety of seeds to eat. This is the reason we prefer to buy the chickfeed al- ready mixed from the supply houses. They have greater facilities for zget- ting a variety of grains than we have. When the young stock is old enough to eat the wheat and kaffir corn they can be fed as you do the old hens, only remember to give them nice, clean litter to scratch in. It will need renewing oftener than that of the old hens, for if it gets foul and they pick up some of their own drop- pings you will soon have a set of sick chickens. Feed the ‘grains in the scratching pen to the little chicks and also zive them in a hopper bran, alfalfa meal, corn meal, ground bone and either granulated milk or dried blood in equal proportions. The lit- tle chicks will prefer the grains in the scratching ‘pen and eat ‘those the first, which is just what they want, =, i [> ae FEEDING IN GENERAL I-43 but if they are hungry they will go to the hopper. Most of the poultry supply houses now make an excel- lent scratch feed; they realize the need of it and are able to mix it scientifically. I always buy from them and if I think there is too much corn and that my fowls will ‘become too fat, I say “Please economize the corn.” You will find most of the poultry supply houses willing to mix the scratch food just as you want it. You are feeding the mature stock all right. One handful of the scratch food in the litter is about right for the hens. The green food is quite important, the lawn clippings should be of clover or as much clover as possible, for the blue grass becomes so hard and ‘stiff as the summer continues that there is not much nourishment in it and the hens will not eat it. Lettuce is good but is sometimes quite expensive and diffi- cult to get, but there is another green food that has been found excellent and is within the reach of any one. This is sprouted oats. Take half a bucket of oats, pour warm water on them and leave them covered all night, then spread them in boxes. Any box will do. Have the oats about three inches deep and keep them wet. In four or five days there will ibe a mass of tender’ green sprouts. The hens will eat eagerly of this. A friend of mine ‘has also done this with barley for many years with great success. This green food is as good for the young stock as for the old. In your place I would feed as you do, throwing scratch food (a handful to each fowl) in the litter in the early morning, keeping the dry mash in the hopper, and feed the green food in the evening. Some of it may be left till morning, ‘but will not wilt much and they will eat it the first thing. Be sure they have plenty of water and have it shaded from the sun, either in a box on its side or in some sort of shelter. Mixing Foods—I want to ask you if there is any good reason for not mixing foods at the same meal. Prof. Jaffa of the U. C. said on one occa- sion that it was best not to mix foods —in feeding wheat, to feed that alone; the same of ‘barley or of corn. Make either an entire meal. I have ob- served in feeding my chickens that they seem to enjoy a variety of grains fed together. Which method would you think best? I am feeding rolled barley dry. Would you think it better to soak it? I give the mash at noon, dry, and green feed morning and evening. The fowls seem to like the green feed better at those times than at noon. Would you set eggs from well zrown White Minorca pullets that are now nearly eight months old? They are now with a rooster of the same age; or if not now, would it be safe to set them after they are nine months old?—G. S. H. Answer—The reason Professor Jaffa thinks it best not to mix foods is because some hens will pick out all of a certain grain in a greedy man- ner, and by giving only one grain at a time, they are forced to eat what he chooses to give them. I would not venture to differ from so learned a man, but like you, I notice my hens enjoy a variety, so I give it them, and for the little chicks, I am posi- tive a great variety is by far the best for them. I found that the hens en- joyed an occasional feed of soaked barley, so I poured scalding water over a few pailsful of barley, covering it with gunny sacks to keep in the steam and when thoroughly soaked, fed it to the hens. I would not set eggs from such young pullets. I would wait until they are nine or ten months of age; especially as they are mated with a cockerel of their own age. The off- spring of immature fowls is often weakly and delicate. I thave found. it much more satisfactory to hatch only from two-year-old birds. Then you have the foundation of a vigorous flock of fowls, and I never hatch from Mediterraneans of less than a year. It really pays better and is much less anxious work having only vigorous chickens, chickens that can- not help but grow and develop as we want them. How Much to Feed—Can you tell me how much feed an average Leg- horn should have in weight with a free range of two acres of alfalfa? Is green ground bone necessary all the year round or only in the winter? My hens will not lay and I may not be feeding right, although a _ few Wyandottes I have are too fat, but they get exactly the same food as the Leghorns. I have 72 hens and 144. MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK only got 12 eggs yesterday. Am not satisfied with the results and desire to have them do better. Answer—An average Leghorn hen should have in weight for every pound weight of hen an ounce of food. As Leghorns weigh about five popnds each, they would require about five ounces of food each per day. Animal food of some kind 1s necessary for hens if you want them to lay. If you can give them milk in large quantities, that will give them all the animal food necessary. Green ground bone is, of course, the best food, but it is very difficult to keep it fresh and sweet in the sum- mer time, therefore dried bone and dried blood, or beef scrap or milk must take the place. A hen requires about half an ounce of green ground bone every day or of the dry stuff (bone and blood) half an ounce every other day. If the fowls have plenty of green food and are not laying well sive them more animal food. Per- haps your Leghorns are two years old, in which case you had better get younger fowls, as their days of great- est usefulness are over. Feeding for Market—What shill we feed young cockerels to prepare them for market? Our turkey hens are still laying. Will they lay next year in time for hatching season, say January of Feb- ruary? Of course I do not expect you could tell exactly what a turkey hen would do, but would like your idea of it. If I thought they would not lay before March, I would rather sell them . What would you advise?— Seale: Answer—For fattening your cock- erels, coop them in a small place, so they will not exercise. Feed them three times a day a mash composed of one part each of corn meal (feed meal), bran and rolled oats, with a little charcoal, and mix it with milk, if possible. Take away the food in fifteen minutes, leaving only water and grit before them; give them all they will eat of this, and in from two to three weeks they will be delicious, fat and juicy. The last week add five per cent linseed or cotton seed meal. Your turkeys that are laying now will moult late and probably not com- mence to lay again before March or April, although as you say, one can- not be very certain what a turkey hen will do. I do not think it would be advisable to shorten their ration of meat. Tur- keys require more meat and less car- bonatious food than hens, and |] am afraid if you increase the corn, be- fore you want to fatten them for the market, you will have liver trouble in the flock. Be very careful how you increase the corn or corn meal. How Much Grain—I have been feeding three times a day grain morn- ing and night and a mash at noon. I feed a good handful of Kaffr corn, wheat or Indian corn in the scratch pens. I have a mixed flock; I cannot well use the dry mash. How much of the grain should I give if I only fed once a day? I have fifty or sixty hens kept only for eggs and no zood way of weighing grain, so please state ape per hen and not weight.—C. _Answer—It is a good rule to feed a pint of grain for every dozen hens, the erain to be buried in the scratching pens, so they will have to diz it out. Give all the green food, clover, lawn clippings, alfalfa, lettuce, cabbage, vegetables, that they will eat, and one tablespoonful of green cut bone for each hen, three times a week. You do not mention how you make your mash. Remember that a hen needs animal food, green food and cereals; that is the balanced ration that will give plenty of eggs at all times. _What to Feed and How—Will you kindly tell me what to feed my fowls? am a stranger in California ane cannot make my flcck pay for its: feed. Four months ago I bought 25 hens and two cockerels (Buff Orpingtons), ten four-months’ pullets and twelve ‘Minorcas. The pullets have never layed, the hens only a few eggs. They have new ‘houses and are in an or- ange grove 100 feet by 65 feet in two pens. I take the Minorcas out of the trees each night. I feed an egg food sold at the supply house here. Grains, alfalfa meal, etc., is in the egg food. The hens have dust baths and I paint the roosts with a lice killers ieet no eggs; one cockerel rattles in his throat. The leading poultryman here has been up and can find no fault. Will you please tell me what and how much, and at what time of day they should be fed? They are high priced FEEDING IN GENERAL 145 fowls and I want to make them lay eggs. The grove is kept cultivated during the summer and everything is new. It seems to be only a question of food and exercise. I get so many different opinions I do not know what to do; some say they are too fat, others not fat enough. How can I make them scratch any more? I would like to feed as cheaply as pos- stble. Where could I zet the Cali- fornia Experiment Station Bulletin? —Mrs. L. S. Answer—Your fowls, especially the Orpingtons, should be laying well. It is as you say, a question of feed and exercise. I find the best results with Orpingtons is to feed grain in the scratching pen in the morning; one small handful scattered in deep straw for each hen. I kéep the following mixture in a hopper, or box, before them all the time; also I give them crushed oyster shell, charcoal and granulated bone in a hopper by itself: Mix two quarts of bran, one of corn mieal, one of alfalfa meal, one of beef scrap, or of granulated milk. To this I add, on cold days, a tablespoon of eround red peppers, and when they are moulting, half a cup of linseed meal. If you feed in this way, you cannot fail to have egzs. Besides this, I give the hens lawn clippings, table scraps and refuse vegetables. Hens do much better in this climate when they can have plenty of green food. All the bulletins of the Agricultural Experi- ment Station can be had by writing to the ‘Director of the Station, Univer- sity of California, Berkeley, 'Cal. They are free to residents in this state. Broken Class for Chickens—Have started in poultry in a small way. Have had very good success so far. However, ’tis somiewhat of a trial to get enough gravel or grit for a zood Sized stlock on a small: lot. . Now, what I want to know is, is pounded elass fit to feed hens? Two of my neighbors have advised its use in the poultry yards, but I am afraid it would act on the chickens the same as it did on foxes: we used to poison with it up in the wilds of Wisconsin. —J. G. F. Answer—Broken glass or broken crockery make a very fair substitute for grit and gravel. It should be broken not smaller than a grain of wheat and have three sharp edges or corners to each piece. In using glass . be sure not to take pointed pieces like slivers because they may pierce the crop or gizzard. For’ several years when I could not get grit I used broken crockery for the chick- ens and I know it does well. Substitute for Green Food—Will you kindly tell me what would be the quickest and best vegetable for green food I could grow for my poultry? I planted a patch of white clover but. it does not seem to grow at all. Is alfalfa meal a good substitute where green food cannot be had?—G. K. Answer: An alfalfa patch is a good thing to have for poultry, but if you cannot have either clover or _ alfalfa, plant for the little chickens, lettuce, and for the older ones, kale, swisschard, cabbage, beets, etc. These in the order in which I have mentioned them are the best foods that I know of. You, of course, must judge what will grow. best in your sestion. Alfalfa meal is a very fair substitute for green food, but of course does not come un to the crisp succulent fresh growing greens. Lack Green Food—I have three pens of White Plymouth Rocks and what bothers me is I only get from four to six eggs from them. They all look fine. I think they are rather fat. As to feed, I give them a small handful of grain in the morning in deep straw, either wheat or barley; about eleven a dry mash—eight quarts bran, four quarts middlings and nearly a quart of beef-scraps; at night I give them the dry grain again. Once in a while a tablespoon of pepper in their mash. They are not troubled with lice or mites, and have grit, oystershell and coal be- fore them all the time; also good clean water. Can you advise me how to feed them so as to get them down to busi- ness?—J. B. Answer: What your hens lack 1s green food. At least one-third of a hen’s food should be green—clover, al- falfa or some succulent vegetables. They cannot do well upon the absolutely dry foed you are giving them. Add the green to your present ration and you should get eggs. Millet Seed—Can you tell me what makes my chickens that are from ten weeks to three months old, droopy? Is millet seed good for little chicks for the 146 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK first two or three weeks? I mean mil- let seed alone—Mrs. P. E. N. Answer: When chickens are droopy, it is a sign that they may have either lice, worms or indigestion. If you are feeding millet seed, that may account for it. Millet seed is very hard, round and slippery, and passes through the gizzard and intestines without being digested, and I have known of several chickens dying from it. A little used in their food may not hurt them, but an exclusive diet of millet is certain to catise trouble. Pumpkin Seeds—Are pumpkin seeds injurious to fowls? If so, what would be the symptoms? We feed alfalfa hay, beets, carrots and mangels and our hens are veritable egg machines. I do not think our White Plymouth Rocks can be beaten for size, vigor and egg production.—Mrs. A. E. W. Answer—I have never found pump- kin seeds injurious to fowls. Mine are very fond of them. If they were injurious they would give the nens indigestion and looseness of bowels. This would be caused by the pumpkin seeds remaining too long in the giz- zard and fermenting there. Ration for Laying Hens—Our chick- ens are the White Leghorns and they are doing fairly well, at the same time. I think they would do better if I knew exactly what to do for them. Some time azo I killed one that was droopy and found it was too fat. I had been feeding Kaffir corn, so I cut that out and substituted wheat. I see the improvement now. At present they are laying fine, but the droppings stick to the feathers very bad. I am suré it is not caused by lice, as I dust them with buhach and also paint the roosts with coal oil. I feed wheat in the morning and a mash of bran, onions and red pepper mixed with hot water at night. They also ‘have two lots and a lawn to run on. Do you think they get enough green feed? The range they have is all the green food that I give them. One of the ezgs was covered with a soft shell-like substance in addition to the egg shall and I had to assist a hen pass some of them today. They have plenty of shell and grit, so how can I remedy this? Will say that I received 202 eggs from ten pullets in March, and from three sittings of eggs received 80 per cent hatch.—A Reader. Answer—You are not feeding a rightly balanced ration. An egg-mak- ing ration must be composed of ani- mal food. The proportion that gives the best results is: about one part ani- mal food to three parts grain or its by-products and two parts green feed. Now, it- is impossible for me to know if your hens are getting enough green food because your lawn may be dried up or of tough blue- grass, Or it may be succulent green clover. Bluegrass, as the summer goes on, becomes almost worse than no green food at all. And if you have hens confined on two lots I know by experience the lots are soon eaten clean of any succulent grass, and by this time without seeing your prem- ises I feel sure that your fowls are not getting enough green food, and not any meat, so that the ration is unbalanced. The pepper is a strong stimulant and good only in winter. -It forces the egz organs for a time, but it will result in a complete break- down sooner or later. On close examination you will find that under or on the soiled feathers there are nits, the eggs of the lice. Pull out those feathers, put them into a little can with kerosene in it and burn them, and then dust well with buhach. Give the hens a place well spaded up in the lots so they can wal- low in the dust every day. The hens “wallow” should be dug up and turned Over at least once a week, so they may have a fresh place to clean themselves in. The egg shell will be all right if you zive them enough green food. If you cannot supply the green food get a ‘sack of alfalfa meal- it ewallllast a long time. Commence by giving the hens only one spoonful of tnis (for all the hens) in their mash, and every day add only one spoonful extra until you are feeding one-fifth of the mash of the alfalfa at a meal. The hens at first will not like it, but by beginning gradually in the way I have described you will educate them up LON It Skim Milk—Will you kindly inform me whether skim-+milk is a good feed for young pullets or laying hens? Which is best, sweet, clabber or curd? Is there danger of feeding too much ae ‘ie Se FEEDING IN GENERAL 147 curd or skim-milk? Is curd of more value to young stock or to laying hens? I have a bunch of ten-weeks’- old pullets that I am feeding clabber and bran mixed until it makes a crumbly mash. Is it a fattening or muscle or bone making ration? How would it do to feed to laying stock? I give skim-milk to my laying hens in troughs which set in the sun. Will that kill diseased germs or not?—L. Ho) Answer—Skim-milk is one of the best feeds for chickens or hens at any stage of their lives. It can be fed either sweet, clabber, or curd. By curd, I mean cooked. If you cook it, be careful not to heat it above 100 degrees or it will become tough and indigestible. There is no danger of feeding too much skim-milk or clab- ber to fowls. The crumbly mash is good feed, but you would succeed just as well by giving them the bran dry and letting them drink or eat the milk as they want it. It is a good bone, muscle and egg-making ration. I zive my fowls all the milk I can spare, pouring it into troughs and leaving it till they eat it. The sun does not seem to affect it badly when it is pure milk, but if bran were mixed with it, the sun might make it fermient and then it would disagree with them. Sprouted Barley—One question in regard to feeding sprouted barley I should like to have answered. Has barley, sprouted, any value other than green. food? That is, does it loose its entire value as a grain ration?—L. BK Answer—It depends upon how long the sprouts have grown, and whether there is any grain left. If the sprouts are three or four inches long, there is very little but green food in it. If they have only just sprouted, and about % inch long, there is still con- siderable grain, but I do not think it is as wholesome as the longer sprouts. Sorghum Seed—Will you tell me the value of sorghum seed for poul- try? «ls it fat producing or an egg food and how would it do for turkeys? —C. B Answer—Sorzghum seed, broom corn seed and Ezyptian corn have al- most the same nutritive value. They can be fed to both chickens and tur- - pound. keys with the same satisfactory re- sults. One year when on the farm I had several tons of broom corn seed which was left where the threshers worked and the fowls had free access to it and the green-growing wheat; they got through the moult early and layed all winter, eggs zalore. I never saw better laying and the turkeys did well on it. Professor Jaffa in his most valuable bulletin (Farmer’s bul- letin 164) on poultry feeding, gives us the nutritive value of broom corn and of sorzhum seed as both the same —1:8.4; of Egyptian corn 1:8-6; Sor- ghum seed is more fattening than wheat and less fattening than corn. If your fowls are on free range and have plenty of green food and animal food or milk, sorghum seed will be an excellent food for them. You should write to the Director Agricul- tural Experiment Station, University of California, Berkeley, and ask him to send you “Bulletin 164 on Poultry Feeding,” then you can see just tne right way to ‘balance your ration. A Tonic and Ration—I want a safe- ty brooder stove or a lamp to heat up a dust box to be used at night. I want to try Mr. Fox’s tonic. I have to send off for everything except sul- phur, cayenne pepper, charcoal and salt. The others will cost me 85 cents. What is Fenugreek? What will it cost? Please write me out Mr. Fox’s tonic again. I wish you would sénd me balanced ration for Rose Comb Buff Leghorns. How will the follow- ing do as a ration and how muca wil! I have to feed to 50 hens a day? Six pounds wheat, 4 pounds rolled barley, 2 pounds linseed meal, 3 pounds shorts, 2 pounds bran, 2 pounds corn meal.—A. V., ‘Chewelah, Wash. Answer—You can get a_ safety brooder stove at any good poultry supply house. ‘Dr. Fox’s tonic is 10 pounds dried blood or beef meal; Io pounds ground bone, or bone meal; substitute 5 pounds of linseed meal for the fenugreek; 2 pounds sulphur; 2 pounds powdered charcoal; % pound cayenne pepper; % pound salt, making 30 pounds in all. The reason I substitute the linseed meal for the fenugreek is because the latter is very expensive ‘here; it costs: 35 cents per Your ration is a good one, only you should add five pounds of beef scraps to it, and be sure to give the hens plenty of green food. The 148 MRS. BASLEY’S: POULTRY + BOOK green food will make them lay eggs and will keep them healthy. Fifty hens would require about 15 pounds of ration per day. Will Not Eat Wheat—What is the trouble with my hens? I feed them dry wheat in the evening but they do not eat it, still they have a good ap- petite. Will you tell me what is: the trouble and what kind of food must be fed?—J. S., Phoenix, Ariz. Answer—Possibly. the wheat may be mouldy, or musty. Otherwise your hens cannot be hungry, or they would eat it. Wheat, oats, Kaffir corn, bar- ley, cracked corn, all should be scat- tered in deep straw or hay, hidden so the hens have to exercise to earn their food. This is the best food, but they also need green food, clover, grass, altalta, pumpkins and vege- tables. Also animal food, such as meat, fresh-cut bone or beef scraps. They should have charcoal, grit and shell always before them. These are the best foods for chickens. For a Cold 'Climate—Last summer I raised 81 Rhode Island Reds and have not lost one of them, nor has one been sick. The climate here is very cold. We thave snow until March. This is how I feed: Mash of bran and shorts in the morning; wheat at noon and night. I let them scratch in oat hay for exercise. I give cabbage, carrots, apples and on- ions raw. Am only getting two egzs now. ‘Should I give my chicks: salt and if so, in what way? They have grit, oyster shell, dried bone and dried blood twice a week. I feed them lots of bread; also give them cracklings, and ashes for them to dust in. Will you kindly let me know if I am doing right? If not, where am I wrong?—Mrs. L. B. Answer—As your climate is very cold, it would be well to mix a little red pepper, a teaspoonful for 12 hens, in their food three times.a week. Po- tatoes boiled and mashed, mixed with oats, a cupful of dried blood added and a little pepper and salt would be very good for them, and will certainly make them lay. It has been found that warming grain such as corn or even wheat, in the oven and giving a feed of that at night during the cold weather will help them to lay. I think you are feeding them all rizht. Feeding White Leghorns—I am feeding my White Leghorn hens three times a day, giving them soaked bar- ley in the morning, a good mash at noon and wheat in the evening; every second day they get plenty of green food. Having gone through the star- vation process last summer, my eight hundred hens are doing well now, laying between 200 and 300 eggs per day. I have heard much about feed- ing hens twice a day, so I intend to try this method next spring when eggs are cheap: I will give a good mash in the morning, green food at noon and wheat in the evening. Do you think that would be as good for the hens as three feeds a day? How much mash would tbe necessary in the morning? I feed a three-zgallon pail per hundred hens now, the mash consisting of four and a half pails cracked corn, three-fourths of a pail of wheat bran, two and a half pails of beef-scraps, shells, salt, etc —J. R. H. Answer—I congratulate you on your success with your fowls. If you give as you describe, the mash in the morning, green food at noon and wheat at night, it may be called three meals a day, and I think will succeed next spring with Leghorns as well as the feed you are now giving them. I say advisedly with Leghorns, for they are such active, energetic birds that even feeding them a mash in the morning will not make them lazy. With Rocks and Wyandottes, I pre- fer the mash at night. I like to keep them scratching and exercising in the morning, to keep their egg organs ac- tive and vigorous. I think the same amount of mash you are now giving would be all right to feed them in the morning, all the green feed they will eat at noon, and wheat at night, about 12 to 15 pounds of the wheat per hundred fowls at night; you do not say how much wheat you are giv- ing now. If the weather gets cold, damp and chilly, I think it would be a good plan to add more cracked corn to your ration and also more beef scraps. Leghorns require, at least they do better, with a wider ration than Plymouth Rocks; a wider ration is a more fattening ration. The rea- son for this is their great activity uses up more of the fat, so they re- quire to be fed more of it. A very good plan is, once in a while to weigh vour food, allowing each hen about five ounces of solid food, that is witn- out water, per day. ‘ THE EGG QUESTION Egg-Bound—I have the White Minorcas. Have 15 hens and get from 12 to 14 eggs per day. I have a pullet and an old hen that seem to droop and sit around all day, and sometimes stag- ger; they had been laying all the time and their combs are still red, but they do not lay now. I feed them bran mash in the morning with alfalfa meal and egg-maker, and once a week chop- ped onions and red pepper, and at noon we give them green grass, and at night wheat, besides this they get lots of meat scraps from the table; they have oystershell and grit before them all the time. They have not eaten anything since’ they felt this way, but seem to kind of gasp for breath, and they do not seem to have anything in their craws. Thanking you in advance for a reply, I remain.—Mrs. J. W. S. Answer: Your hens certainly have been doing very well. Minorcas very often get egg-bound, as their eggs are so large they have difficulty in laying them. This may be the case with yours, and I would advise you to examine them. You might also give them some Epsom salts, half a teaspoonful in a tablespoonful of water. If they are egg- bound, inject a little olive oil and hold the body of the hen in a pan of warm water, as warm as you can bear your hands in; this will relax the parts and enable the egg to pass. If it is indi- gestion, the Epsom salts will help that. I think your hens may not be getting green food enough. It Cured Them—How long can eggs be kept for setting and do they require any special treatment? I have a favorite hen and I want to set as many of her eggs as possible, but I do not know how long they will remain fertile, as I have no hen wanting to sit at present. Several of my fowls had a touch of roup and I tried a remedy that you gave (castor oil, camphorated oil, kerosene, turpentine and a_ few drops of carbolic acid) squirted up her nostrils. I also mixed another remedy that you cave (cayenne pepper, mus- tard, viengar, lard and flour) and gave it to the fowls, in pills, as you said. I happened to leave it where they could get at it, and found that I need not give it in pills for they were eating it with relish. I have made the mixture sev- eral times since and they seem to be very fond of it. Their combs have be- come very red and although they are moulting they are laying well. Would you advise allowing them to eat all they want of it? They are entirely well of the roup.—Mrs. H. A. H. Answer—In reply to your first ques- tion it is well to remember that the fresher the eggs you set the stronger will be the chicks. I always set them as fresh as I can get them, and I never sold eggs over a week old for setting. However, I have kept eggs from a favorite hen for three weeks and had a very good hatch. To keep them I always lay the eggs on their side on sawdust or on grain (oats or barley) to keep them from rolling and I turn them every day. By this means the yolk does not adhere to one side, and I have a good hatch. Some advise standing them on the small end, but it does not suc- ceed as well as my way. I am glad your fowls have gotten over the roup. I would not advise you to let them eat their medicine because that remedy is a very powerful stimulant and although excellent for a cold, often curing it in one day, it will prove an irritant if continued too long. It is even now stimulating the egg organs and digest- ive organs greatly, as is shown by the comb, and I advise you to discontinue it, increasing the animal food; and, as yours are Rhode I. Reds. I would advise adding some oil cake (linseed meal) to the food. This will help to give a fine gloss to the new feathers. Soft Shelled Eggs—Havine read a great deal of your advice I will ask of you a favor. Would you please tell me what can be the reason chickens lay unshelled eggs? They sometimes drop them while on the roost or our among the brush. Mine have been very bad of late; I get as many as three or four a day sometimes from about thirty hens. I should be real thankful to find out what to do for them.—Mrs. L. E. L. Answer: Soft-shelled eggs are not exactly a diseased condition, but may be a symptom of approaching danger. It is usually due to a lack of shell making material in the food, or to inflammation 150 MRS: BASLEY SS? FOURERY. BOOK of the shell forming chamber of the egg duct, which no longer secretes calcar- eous matter. Over-stimulation of the egg organs by the use of pepper or stimulating egg foods will have this ef- fect. Worms in the intestines may also produce the irritation that will effect the oviduct, and an over-fat condition will increase the tendency to laying soft shelled eggs. This is the common cause of soft-shelled eggs. Treatment—Provided the cause is an over-fat condition, it can be remedied by giving a ration low in fat producing elements. Give the fowls plenty of shell forming material, such as crushed oyster shells and grit, cut bone and green food; make them work for the grain, which should be wheat in pref- erence to other grains (one heaping tea- spoonful to a pint of drinking water) kept before the hens for a day twice a week will help remove the layers of fat. Feed a properly balanced ration and do not try to increase the egg yield by using stimulants that irritate the or- gans of reproduction. Poor Layers—Will you please send me a copy of Prof. Jaffa’s analysis of foods? I also would like your advice in regard to my flock of hens. I have seventy-five hens and pullets which should have given me some eggs dur- ing the past few months, but I did not get one egg through the months of November and December. I have been feeding a mash of bran, shorts, meal alfalfa and meat meal in the morning, and either wheat or cracked corn at night. The hens seem very healthy and hearty in eating, but I notice when I feed the mash in the morning, the droppings look like molasses, but when I leave off the mash and only feed grain, the drop- pings are natural. Is meal-falfa as good as Calfalfa? My last sack of meat meal seems rather hard and caked, and I am in- clined to attribute the condition of the droppings to this. I am greatly puzzled to know why I get no eggs, while a neighbor who has nothing but common stock and who gives no thought or care to the flock was get- ting eges right alone. IT have thor- oughbred Plymouth Rocks and a pen of mixed hens.—Mrs. E. B. Answer—Prof. Jaffa’s analysis of the various foods for poultry in Cali- fornia can be had by applying to the director of the Agricultural Experi- ment Station, University of Califor- nia, Berkeley, Calif. It is called Poultry Feeding, Bulletin 164. I do not keep them for distribution, but you can secure one ‘by sending a postal card directed as above. If your hens got over the moult well, they should have been laying in No- vember and December. The reason they did not lay is either that they did not have green food and animal food sufficient, or that they had not enough lime to make the shells. The cause of the molasses-like droppings is in the meat meal. It may be bad from ‘becoming damp, or from the meat being stale; also it may come from their not having shad sufficient meat in the last two months. When first they jet the meat, they may over-eat of it and that has an effect on their bowels. Any change must be gradually made. A hen should have about three ounces of grains, or their by-products, two ounces of green food and from thalf ounce to an ounce of animal food. This, with proper ex- ercise and cleanliness, and plenty of clean water, will insure egg produc- tion. Calfalfa and meal-falfa are one and the same. They are alfalfa hay well dried and ground, and are excellent for poultry. As you have Plymouth Rocks, I would advise you to cut out the corn. It is fattening. You do not mention the quantities you are giving of each ingredient so it is very diffi- cult for me to jguess where it lacks. Over Fat Hens—I have about two dozen Buff Orpington hens and have had no eegs for four months. They appear as thealthy as can be. For some time I fed tthem wheat twice a day and the table scraps. I began to think I was not feeding the proper foods; then I got bran and an egg maker and also bought cabbage for them and still no eggs. They have lots of exercise and gravel and are so fat you cannot eat them. Please tell me what to do to reduce the fat. The past two weeks I have been giving them just the scraps from the table. Tell me, is that the proper method to reduce fat?—Mrs. A. C. S Answer—You hens are so fat that they cannot lay. The whole inside of them is filled full of fat so the eggs cannot pass down the egg duct. The best plan would be to kill and eat, or THE EGG QUESTION 151 sell the fowls, because they will not make satisfactory layers after being so fat. However, if you wish to keep them, your only plan will be not to give any grain, or any table scraps until they are reduced in fat; give only green alfalfa or lawn clippings, for two weeks, then commence and feed half an ounce of meat per hen per day and lawn clippings; no grain or bread, and in about a month they may begin to lay. Hens Stopped Laying—You answer so many questions that I venture to ask a few. I have some hens, seven of them, ten months old that were laying; recently I bought a young rooster; the hens stopped laying after he came; sometimes one or two of them lay. I feed wheat, table-scraps and cut alfalfa for them every day; I used to let them out but cannot do so now. Is a good handful of wheat enough for a hen at each feed three times a day? I keep dry bran by them all the time; also crushed oys- ter shell—Mrs. M. W. Answer—The reasons your hens have stopped laying is because you have stopped letting them out. It has nothing to do with the rooster. When they ran out the exercise kept the egg-makinz organs active. Feed according to the directions I have already given and in a few days you will have eggs and more of them. Good Laying Pullets—Could you tell me if a pullet, hatched from a hundred and fifty egg laying strain that begins to lay at exactly the same age as the pullet from a two hundred and twenty egg strain hen, is just as good a layer as the pullet from the 220 egg strain hen? Would the pul- let from the 150 egg strain hen be just as good as the 220 egg strain pul- let if she moulted as good? Why is it that a hundred’ hens on the same space of ground will not do as well as fifty hens when their yards and houses are kept clean?—R. T. S. Answer—“You can’t sometimes al- ways tell!” Usually the pullet that commences laying the earliest is the one that lays the most eggs, but very much depends upon the care and feeding. If you have two pullets as good as you think, keep track of them both and let me hear from you at the end of a year. It would be quite interesting to watch them and find out which is the better layer. It has been proved beyond a doubt that when a small number of hens are kept together, they lay more eggs pro- rata than when large numbers are kept together. There are many rea- sons given for this but I do not know that any have ‘been proven to ibe correct. It is, however, a well known fact. Blood Spot on Yolk—I have 150 Brown Leghorn pullets just starting to lay, and I supply a few customers with eggs and they have been com- plaining of finding a little blood spot on the yolk. I have plenty of nest room so they are not crowded. I have been picking 70 to 80 eggs a day. They have abundance of green feed. I feed soft feed in the morning, wheat at mid-day, corn at evening, so if you will please let me know what the cause of this is I will be very much obliged, because my customers are jetting dissatisfied —W. W. M. Answer—The small blood clot you describe results from a slight hemor- rhage which has generally occurred in the upper two-thirds of the oviduct. Such hemorrhages are the result of great functional activity and conges- tion of the blood vessels. They are excited by any of the causes which lead to congestion and inflammation and are to be counteracted by green feed and less animal food and by the suppression of red-pepper or any stimulants. Give a little Epsom salts in the water and add about twice the amount of salt you are giving to tne mash in the morning, leaving off the red-pepper. Best Layers—Will you kindly tell me what breed of chickens you con- sider best for laying? I have fifty chickens—mixed varieties—from one to two years old. I am feeding them about three quarts of mixed grain per day. They have layed about seven ezgs per day for the past month, dur- ing which time they have been moult- ing. I also give my chickens beef- scraps, oyster-shells, green stuff and plenty of fresh water. Can you advise me what I should do to make them lay more?—Mrs. W. J. N. Answer: I consider the Standard bred chickens the best layers, as they 152 MRS, BASEEYWS POULPRY BOOK have nearly all of them been bred-_ if she is from debilitated or inbred an- to-lay. Your hens, you. say, are cestors. moulting. You have to give them suf- ficient food to make the new feathers, as well as to lay eggs, and you are not feeding your hens enough. [ have thir- teen hens, moulting, and they are laying from six to eight eggs every day, and I feed them nearly as much as you give to your fiity hens. It pays me to feed well because I get plenty of eggs. If you want your hens to lay well, keep beef scraps before them all the time, and feed them more liberally of grain, and all the green food, clover, alfalfa or vegetable, that they will eat. Largest White Eggs—I am start- ing or trying to start a poultry ranch and would like to ask you a question recently asked by some one else but in a little different way. Which of the good laying breeds lay the largest white eggs? My aim is for good city trade — E. A. M. Answer: The Black Minorcas have the reputation of laying the largest white eggs. The White Leghorns are their close competitors. It very much de- pends upon the strain or family. For instance, one set of fowls may have been selected for beauty of feather and form and their owners may not have chosen those that layed the largest eggs, whilst some have carefully chosen the largest egg-layers, and bred from those, not caring for exhibition birds, and again a° third party might have united these two qualities and have both prize winners and the best of layers. It depends upon the ability of the breeder and also upon his object. Black Minorcas do admirably climate of Southern California. I do not know how they would grow in a damper, colder climate. You would have to inquire of people who have had ex- perience in that kind of a climate. in the Egg-Bound—Will you please tell me how to treat one of my hens? She gets on the nest every dav to lay, but she does not lay. She is not a young hen and does not eat her eggs. I go to the nest just as soon as she gets off. She Speer eeene for almost two weeks.— Answer: Your hen may be egg- bound, or she may be just commencing to moult, which I think is probably the case, especially if she has been a good layer. She may be a very poor layer Sudden Death—Lately I have had three hens die suddenly, and apparent- ly without cause; my neighbors have also lost several. Perhaps you can en- lighten us and suggest a remedy. The hens were laying, combs red and large, crops full of wheat, etc., but die on the nest over night. I held a post mortem examination and could find nothing radically wrong. Each had well formed eggs and many of them. They roost high in the open air; run out nights and mornings on alfalfa. I feed wheat mostly, and once every other day hot bran mash with a_ spoonful of egg maker. Have had over 40 dozen eggs without interruption since January Ist from twelve pullets—Minorcas—of my own raising. This is the first death I have ever had except of the little chicks. Pens are clean, no lice or mites. Have studied closely and can’t “savy.” Per- haps you can. The heart of the first one seemed the only cause for death, as it had a large inforct, probably fatty de- generation: the other was normal.—Dr. ipo Answer: I think as your hens died on the nest, that they had some difficulty in laying, and were probably egg-bound. The Minorcas laying a large egg, are frequently subject to this trouble, more so in fact than the other breeds which lay smaller sized eggs. Straining in laying frequently is the cause of a blood vessel breaking in the head, which, of course, results in apoplexy. Minorcas rarely suffer from an over-fat condition, as they are a very active breed. Wey to Get Hens to Lay—What months should Black Minorca and White Leghorn chickens be hatched in order to get them to lay from August 15th on? How many little chickens are necessary under fair conditions to raise 500 hens? What kind of an our-door brooder is necessary to raise say 500 chicks at a time? Which is the cheap: est for a person not experienced in in- cubators—to buy chicks just hatched or to hatch them? What feed do you rec- ommend for little chicks? Do you think it possible to raise chicks on adobe soil? Summing up the main motive of this let- ter, please advise cheapest and best way IT can get 500 hens ready for laying by August 15th—S. D. W. Answer—In order to get the Mediter- ranean class of fowls to lay by the 15th ftHE EGG QUESTION 153 of August, I would advise that you hatch one third in February, one third in March and one third in April. In this way you will have a succession of layers just when your old hens are moulting. The eggs usually hatch half pullets and half cockerels, so in order to have 500 pullets, you would have to hatch at least 1000. You would have, of course, to make allowance for losses in raising, so you had better count on hatching 1200. To raise 500 chicks, you should have ten out-door brooders. Any of the standard makes are good. I would ad- vise a person not experienced with incu- bators to buy chicks just hatched, if they are property hatched. I recommend dry chick feed for the little chicks. Adobe soil is bad for chickens, but by getting a load of gravel for the chicken yard you can raise them. Egg-EFating Hens—\Vould you kindly tell me how to treat egg-eating hens? What will cure them?—Mrs. R. BG. Answer—The best way is to cut the head off the offender and eat her, for she is certain to be fat. The informa- tion you ask for is as follows: Mr. Morse (a chicken exnert) gives five remedies for the bad habit of egg eating. First: Fit up an arrangement whereby the eggs as soon as layed, slide down and out of sight, into a sort of false bottom under the nest. The hens will not eat them because they cannot get them. Second: Have a lot of china eggs lying about promiscuous like on the floor. Trying to eat such eggs is_ likely to discourage egg-eating. Third: Fix up a hollow egg with aloes. One bite is enough. Consult the corner druggist as to how to make the mess. Fourth: Have grit and crushed oyster shells about in abundance in self-feeding boxes. Fifth: Do not stuff your hens full of mash in the morning and let them sit around all day, like “Father” in the song “Every- body Works But Father” but feed them grain in litter and make them hustle all day. This keeps them out of mischief. Mr. Morse’s advice may be good, but I recommend using trap nests by which means you will easily discover the guilty hen and if she is not too valuable, the verdict should be decapitation. Keep oyster shells, grit and charcoal before your hens and there will be very little egg-eating for it is a vice which alwavs commences with weak or soft egg shells. Novel Nests—Do you know the name of the maker of a nest with an opening in the bottom so that the eggs will drop through into a box below to prevent the hens from eat- ing the eggs? Answer—I have seen the mention of such nests but have never in all the many poultry ranches I visited seen such nests in use. You might try darkened nests. They are simply a curtain of burlap hung in front of the nest with a split up the mid- dle. When the hen has tayed and step- ped off the nest the curtain closes be- hind her and she can not see the egg to eat-it. This has been found suc- cessful. THE MOULTING SEASON Forcing the Moult—Since reading your article on forcing the moult | have decided to try it, and would like to know if it will be all right to feed alfalfa only for the three weeks, as that is the only green food we have. How long to feed it, and should it be before them all the time? We have been feeding our chickens cracked wheat and kaffir corn, but they are very bony and many of them have white feathers. These chickens are Black Minorcas hatched in March and we think we have not been feeding them _ right. Charcoal, grit and oyster-shell are provided and cool water fresh three times a day, green alfalfa every noon and green bone twice a week. Our hens are fed by the dry hop- per method and we give them whole wheat in the morning. Do they need anything at night? What would be a good way to start them with the grain feed after I have forced the moult? We have sixteen Black Minorca hens which are almost bare of feath- ers on their backs and breasts, which brought us in $7.00 worth of eggs in August. Do you think they are good layersP—Mrs. E. E. C. Answer—I am afrutd you have not quite got the idea about “forcing the moult.” The reason for putting the hens on short rations is to stay the laying and to draw the nourishment from the old feathers, making them dry and lifeless so they will easily fall out. When the feathers get so they will fall out quickly, then—then only —we feed them a rich food, but sup- posing the feathers have fallen out, we do not then want to starve them, or the feathers will not come in, or if they do they will not be bright and lustrous. When the feathers are forming or are coming in the hens should have a generous ration of feather forming food, corn or corn meal, linseed meal and animal food. This will hasten the forming of the feathers and will “force” the moult. Now, you say that your* hens are nearly bare of feathers, therefore I conclude they do not need to be made to shed their feathers, but are in the condition that requires plenty of good, rich feather making food. And the sooner you can get the new feath- ers on to them the sooner you will have winter eggs. You certainly have good layers if you had _ such zood returns in August. About the younger chicks, if you feed them more animal food than you seem to be giving them they will de- velop better and their feathers will come in black, when they are mature. I think with you that you have not fed them the right ration or they would be large enough to be laying before the end of this month. The Proper Month—Is not the month of July about time to force the moult? I want my hens to be laying this winter when eggs are fifty cents per dozen, so I want them to moult now. Also do you recommend con- stantly keeping copperas in the drink- ing water? Do you think the scraps from the table, alonz with wheat, a good food?—A Beginner. Answer—July is too early to force the moult; August is early enough. I do not recommend keeping cop- peras in the water, because healthy hens do not require it, and [I am averse to giving drugs or stimulants unless for sickness. The scraps from the table are excellent for chickens, especially the meat and _ vegetable scraps. To Hasten Moult—I would like to ask your advice regarding my chick- ens. They have been moulting for the last ten weeks and of course, did not lay any eggs. They are Buff Or- pingtons, and are very ‘healthy. I feed them twice a day, bran and sour milk and in the evening before they roost, wheat and also Swiss chard and oyster shells. Could you please advise me what to give them to get them through the moult a _ little quicker?—V. V. Answer—Give your hens a _ little corn meal (about twenty per cent added to the bran and milk) and some linseed meal (about five per cent); also either add some beef scrap to the mash or give them beef scrap with the oyster shell in a box where THE MOULTING SEASON 155 they can eat as much as they want. They are not getting enough nitro- genous food to make the feathers come quickly. With this addition to the food, they will be soon through the moult and begin to lay. Stopped Laying—What can I do for my hens? They have stopped laying for the past week, and am at a loss to account for the same. They are a healthy stock with bright, red combs. Have about 30 laying hens and only one Buff Orpington rooster among the lot? Do you think that sufficient? I feed them bran mixed with cayenne pepper—a very little— also an egg maker. Any information you can give me will be greatly appre- ciated—N. B. Answer—Your fowls are evidently beginning to moult. I notice that a great many fowls are beginning early this year (July, 1907). I cannot ac- count for it unless it may be the spots on the sun! Help them through the moult and they will begin to lay again. One Orpington male should only be mated to ten hens of his breed to produce fertile eggs. A Little Late—I am just a beginner and have only a few chickens. Only a week ago I bought my last three and yesterday I discovered that one of these had shed all of the feathers from off her neck, leaving only pin feathers sticking out. Under her wings are great bald places and her feathers can ‘be pulled out easily any- where you touch them. Her flesh is dark blue and her bowels seem to be loose, otherwise she is apparently well, scratches and eats just like the other chickens. All over her head the feathers are off and there are a few small white spots on her comb and one quite black one. My other hens are very healthy, get all the green clover and other feed they can eat, and lay well. I do not think the chickens got much green food before I bought them. ‘Dio you think Blue Andalusians a very profitable breed compared to others?—Mrs. J.'B..D. . Answer—Your hen is old, conse- quently is having a very late moult. This is being helped on by your good care and change of food. The blue color of her skin is often there when moulting late. The spots on her comb are chicken pox. Put carbolated vaseline on those. Keep her by her- self until she is featnered out and quite well again. Give her plenty of green food and plenty of animal food. Andalusians are a very zood fowl and compare well with any, but I would not advise you to keep more than one breed at a time. Nature’s Way—Your article on moulting interested me very much. Will chickens hatched in March, April and May moult this fall? ie “Giop should the pullets be treated same as the hens? JI mean by the fasting method. Will they moult as early if they have not matured rapidly?—K. H Answer—Pullets hatched in March, April and May will not moult -this summer. They will take on some more feathers to help keep warm dur- ing the winter months, but will not shed feathers except a few of the earliest. Do not make them fast. A pullet should be well fed from shell to shelling. They will not moult early if they have not matured early. HATCHING WITH INCUBATOR AND HEN Poor Hatches—We have been run- ning our incubator since February and our hatches have been quite poor; our hens are two years old and so are our roosters. The hens are fed regu- larly, and have a large run with plenty of alfalfa; a clean airy coop. The chicks when hatched are strong and vigorous. We have some six weeks old and we have not lost one, but when they are hatching many die in their shells. Out of 450 eges 77 tested out not fertile or dead germs, and out of 373 remaining eggs only 182 hatched. We are hatching White Leghorns. Can you tell us what to do, or what the matter is? We have been following your advice in many things. Do you think that slamming of doors or jarring is bad for incubators when hatching?—Mrs. M. F. 'De W. Answer— I think the fault in your incubator is that it has not sufficient ventilation. An insufficiency of oxy- gen will cause poor hatches such as you describe. With the care you give your fowls and their being two years old, the fault does not lie in the par- ent bird or their eggs, therefore it certainly comes from a faulty incu- bator. In the future air the eggs three times a day; fan out the stale air of the incubator each time you air the eggs, and if you find they are dry- ing out too much sprinkle them, af- ter the first week, twice a week with warm water. Slamming the doors or jarring the incubator during incuba- tion is not advisable, but on the day of hatching it would not injure them. Infertility—Will you kindly tell me what to do to make eggs more fertile? I have a fine pen of Columbian Wyan- dottes, etght pullets mated with a cock two years old. They are fed on dry mash of bran, ground barley corn meal, alfalfa meal and beef scrap with plenty of grit, shell, charcoal and ground bone before them all the time, and are running in a corral of grass and clover; they have plenty of fresh water and the hens lay well. What chicks I do get are strong and healthy; out of fifteen eggs only two were fertile. I have another pen, four hens two years old mated with a cockerel one year old. Fed the same in every way; their shells are smooth but full of clear spots. What shall I feed to make shells better?—Mrs. E. H. G. Answer—The usual requirements missing from the food when eggs are infertile are green food and animal food, therefore I would advise you to feed more green food, more animal food and a great deal less barley and corn meal. Wyandottes are apt to get too fat to have good fertility un- less they have plenty of exercise. From your account, I think neither pen has sufficient exercise and the four old hens require more lime. Mix some fresh quick lime in water to the consistency of pancake batter; let it stand 24 hours, then pour out a cake of it on the ground. It will soon dry, and by crumbling a little of it every day, the hens will pick it up. Adda teaspoonful of baking soda to a quart of their drinking water and keep this before them for a week. By this means I think your eggshells will im- prove. Airing Eggs in Incubator—You have stated that you aired your eggs about one hour daily. Would that have a tendency to make your hatch come off late, or did you run the machine higher to offset the cooling? Did you ‘start in from the first week to air that length of time, or was it gradual? If I aired them longer without chilling, could I get them out in time, or does airing them make them late? The chicks that came out were very wet; some of them stuck in the shell; the stuff drying down and glueing them in.—Mrs. N. A. R. Answer—After the eggs have been in the incubator 48 hours, I com- mence airing them about five minutes twice a day, gradually increasing the time two minutes each time. By the third week I am airing them 20 min- utes twice a day, or if the incubator is a hot-water machine, I air them three times a day in a room that is not lower than 70 to 75 degrees, be- cause I do not want to chill the eggs. If they are too much chilled or cooled off, they are apt to be weakly, the a ee HATCHING WITH INCUBATOR AND HEN 157 hatch retarded and the chickens have difficulty in coming out of the shell, such as you describe. Evidently you have either cooled the eggs too much or you have run the incubator at too low a temperature. We want to give the eggs as much oxygen (fresh air) -as possible without chilling them. Cripples—Some of my _ incubator chickens are almost cripples when they are taken from the incubator. Some have crippled, crooked and crumpled up toes, others have one leg too short, or turned out the wrong way, and some of them are not able to stand up—they hold their head back so far that they fall backward. —A.H. S. Answer—The cause of cripples in- variably is irregularity of tempera- ture in the incubator. Your incuba- tor has been too hot at some period, probably the last week; this causes cripples. Those that hold their heads back do so from the eggs not having been turned sufficiently during in- cubation. As you do not mention the name of the incubator, I cannot tell you just where the lack is. It may be poor oil; it may be it is run in a draught and it may lack yentilation. Lack Oxygen—I took 200 thrifty chicks from the incubator about eight weeks ago. They did very well for about two weeks when they began to die and today I have so left, and these look too scrubby to be worth raising. I have given them extra attention and the best feed. They get pale around the head, grow weak and are skin and bone when they die. I think they have consumption. The brooder is a tight box and no ventilation, except the lid has a round hole about as large as a teacup, and the little entrance window about six inches square. An iron pipe running through is the heating arrangement. Inside the box to fit close over the pipe, is a cap of wood with flannel curtains dropping to the floor under which the chicks hover. ‘Don’t you think this is too close a place? The outside box is only 6 inches deep, then they hover inside; this only gives 4 inches space for the chicks. Please tell me if you think te lid to brooder would be bet- ter of wire or where do you think the trouble is? Also tell me how granu- lated milk is prepared. We have late- ly begun feeding to everything in the poultry yard beef scraps, bone meal and linseed meal in what we think proper proportions once a day. Should chicks only eight weeks old be fed this ration the same as hens? What causes eggs to be ridgy and uneven? Can one feed to produce larger eggs? Our hens are large but lay small eggs.—Mrs. J. B. S. Answer—I think that the lack of oxygen in your brooder is the only difficulty with your chicks. Still I am very much afraid that, tuberculosis may have got in, and infected the Brooder. If possible, move your chicks into a weaning house, open en- tirely on one side (or only closed with chicken wire). Make a little frame of gunny-sacking or out of a piece of blanket that they can go un- der. This will rest upon their backs to keep them warm. Give them no. other heat. At this season of the year (August) eight weeks old chicks should have no heat whatever at night. I think you are keeping your chickens too warm, without enough fresh air and possibly they may have mites or lice. Air their sleeping place well; put the hover out into the sunshine every day. This will kili the germs of tuberculosis better than anything. Granulated milk is made at Bing- hamton, N. Y. I do not know the process. Chicks eight weeks old can have the beef-scraps, bone meal and lin- seed meal in the same proportions as hens. Uneven eggs are caused either from defect in the oviduct or from an in- sufficiency of lime or hurried laying. Some strains of hens lay small eggs and over-fat hens will lay small eggs. More protein added to their food will often increase the size of the eggs. By choosing the large eggs for hatch- ing, you can increase the size of the eggs in the next generation. Setting Hens—Can you tell me what is the matter with my chickens? They seem good and healthy until they start to set, then they invariably de- velop a severe case of diarrhoea, which causes them to leave their eggs after a few days. I have now a hen that wants to set, and have just re- ceived a setting of thoroughbred eggs, but today I noticed the same trouble as with the others, except that she 158 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK seems to be a great deal worse, for her droppings are of a bloody na- ture. Can it be from too much blue- stone in their water or because of too much egg-food? I feed them a mixed food from the feed yard, consisting of corn, wheat, Kaffir corn, beef scraps, hone, charcoal, oyster shell, barley and some other grains I can- not classify. They get this twice a day together with all the table scrap and all the grass they can eat. ‘They also have plenty of exercise. Is there anything I can do for this particular hen? Shall-I try to set her or get some other hen for the eggs? Still another question, what causes a milky, watery substance in the whites of the eggs; it runs out after the eggs have been cooked?—G. W. Y. Answer—It is the bluestone in the water that thoroughly disagrees with or poisons the setting hens. Feed a setting hen only grains, wheat and corn mixed, and give her fresh water to drink without any medicine in it. You should not be giving your hens bluestone at this season of the year at all. They do not need it, and it will injure the fertility of the eggs and make the chicks hatching out weakly. Do not set the hen you men- tioned, as in all probability she will leave the eggs. All setting hens should tbe in ‘perfect health and entire_ ly free from lice or mites. You had better get another hen for those eggs. The milkiness in the whites of your eggs is an indication that they are perfectly fresh, that is, new layed, and 1s a great recommendation for the quality of your eggs. Chicks Dying in Shell—A large per cent of my chicks fully developed die the day they are due to hatch, even after pipping the shell. They seem to dry in the shell.—Mrs. D. D. Answer—Float the eggs in warm water. That will help the chicks to break through the shell better than anything I know of. Next time try sprinkling the eggs after the eighth day twice a week. with warm water. I think you will find it is what is needed in your dry climate, and is likely to help matters. Fooling the Hen—TIs it possible to fool a sitting hen into caring for some incubator chickens when she has not hatched them herself—Mrs. C. R. Answer—If your hen has been sit- ting for a week or ten days, she will “take to” the chicks as well as though she had hatched them herself; espe- cially if she is a Plymouth Rock or Buff Orpington. Those two breeds have a greater affection for chickens than some of the others. Be sure. that the hen is entirely clear of lice, and if she is a large hen, put from 15 to 18 under her at night; a smaller hen should have from 12 to 15, not more if you expect the chickens to do well. I have trained capons to act as mothers; they do even better than the hens. Thermometer—Will you kindly tel! me where I could get tested thermom- eter for incubator; also where I could have one tested which I already have?— Ie ea Answer—At any good drug store you can have your thermometer tested. If you want to buy a new one, go to the agent selling your make of incubator. Take the new one also to the druggist and have him test it thoroughly, because the thermometers as they are seasoned sometimes vary degrees, and even a new one cannot be trusted. Helping Them Hatch—I find my White Plymouth Rock eggs are very slow about hatching and some I know would die in the shell if I had _ not dropped a few drops of lukewarm water on their heads, as it seemed they would get about half out and then the white skin would dry on their heads and hold them fast. After having two die in the shell I found they would free themselves if a few drops of warm water were sprinkled on them. I kept moisture in the pans all three days and part of the fourth and they are still slowly hatch- ing. This is the twenty-third day. Do you think I should keep the moisture pan full for a week—I mean the last week of incubation? Please send me an idea on chick feed as I can not get good clean chick feed here—Mrs. P. W. B. Answer—If you had only mentioned the name of the incubator you are using I could have better diagnosed your case. As it is, all I can say to you is to follow. the rules and directions they give you as closely as possible. With some ma- chines it is very advisable to sprinkle the eggs twice a week after the twelfth day with warm water; this seems to HATCHING WITH INCUBATOR AND HEN make the shells more brittle and pre- vents the inner lining skin from tough- ening. I have found this better than keeping much moisture in the machine. The moisture in the machine seems to make the chick grow but does not make the shell brittle. Your Plymouth Rock eggs should hatch promptly on the 21st day. The delayed incubation indicates that part of the time the temperature has been too low. Are you sure that your thermometer is perfectly correct; have you had it tested? On the effi- ciency of the thermometer much de- pends. Many thermometers that are accurate at first become, through the use of unseasoned glass in their manufac- ture, absolutely incorrect after a few months’ use. Others are really only within two to four degrees of being cor- rect, therefore be sure you have your thermometer tested. About the chicken feed, write to the Experiment Station, University of California, Berkeley, for bulletin 164 on poultry feeding. This gives you the lists of foods available in your part of the country, with the proper proportions for mixing them. Eggs for Hatching—Will you kind- ly tell me what is the matter with my eggs? They will not hatch well. Our hens are Brown Leghorns and Rhode Island Reds. I only got fifteen chick- ens in my last batch. When we broke the eggs after we know they will not hatch we find the chicks dead, but fully formed and just ready to hatch. Perhaps the shells are too hard. Will you please tell me what to do to make a softer shell? Feed according to your directions. Is it necessary to put moisture in the incubator? Does it hurt the eggs to sprinkle them with warm water if we think the shells are too hard? I will be very thankful if you will an- swer this, as I want to know before I commence to save eggs for next in- cubator lot. I do not keep them over two weeks and keep them in a cool, dark place, turning them every day. —Mrs. G. A. M. Answer—I wish I could tell you for certain what causes chickens to die in the shell. I have my theories about it, and I believe it comes from the eggs not being aired and cooled sufficiently. Cooling them and then warming them up again seems to make the shells more brittle, and this is the same under hens. .If I notice that a hen is setting too closeiy 7% 159 take her off twice a day to coo) the eggs. With an incubator I would air -them and turn them three times a day, and either sprinkle them three times during the last ten days or float them in warm water two days before the hatch is due. Float them from three to five minutes and then put them back into the tray while they are wet. I do not believe in putting moisture into the incubator unless the direc- tions call for it. Incubator Chicks Dying Off—We have started in with the R. I. Reds, and have been fairly successful until our last hatch. Out of 65 eggs 44 came out. Last Saturday they com- menced dying off, just fell seemingly from weakness and died soon after. We have fed them chick feed, bran, Indian meal, cayenne pepper, beef scraps, twice per day, and a little germazone in water occasionally.— G Answer—From your description, I am afraid that the chickens have either been chilled or may have been over-heated. Either one of these conditions will cause the symptoms you describe. All you can do now is to give them rice boiled in milk, add- ing a tablespoonful of ground cinna- mon to each pint. Give them also chopped lettuce and onions. Do not give any cornmeal or beef scraps. When chicks have been over-heated either in the incubator or brooder, it so weakens their bowels that they cannot digest their food and they die of starvation. Poor Hatching—I should like very much if you can give me some infor- mation about my hatching eggs in an incubator. I bought a new incubator this spring. I have set it twice and had the same results both times. The chicks form fully and then most of them die in the shell. As the same ezgs do fine when put under a hen, I think it must ‘tbe that I make some mistake in my treatment of the in- cubator. I have as nearly as possible followed the instructions that came with it. If you can give me any as- sistance it will be appreciated very much.—Mrs. W. D. W. Answer—Your incubator is a good one. Its fault, for they all have some 160 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK little fault, is that the ventilation is insufficient. Take the eggs out and air them after the first week three times. a day. This will counteract the lack of ventilation. This cooling and then heating up again of the eggs makes the shell more brittle, so that the chick is able to break its way out much more easily. Another thing I found in using that incubator is that by taking the middle eggs out of the row, One in each hand, and putting them at the end of the row, and then pushing the others along into the vacant places, I got a ten per cent better hatch. I got the idea from Egypt. Of course, you must be sure the machine stands level and that the thermometer is correct. Trouble with Incubators—I want to ask your advice about .our incubator. We bought it new in January. Out of 200 fertile eggs we got 75 chickens and all but nine died before they were Io days old. We thought it was the fault of the brooder. There were many cripples among them, but they all died of bowel trouble. On April 30th we hatched 117 out of 150 fertile eggs and gave the chicks to old hens, as we had laid our previous trouble to. the brooder. But now the last are going the same way. Chicks hatched under hens at the same time are healthy and strong. We have only lost one so far. We feed pre- pared chick feed and take the best of care of the chicks. The incubator runs perfectly, always 103, until the chicks begin to work out of the shell, when it runs up to 104 and 105. We have set the incubator again. Jt will match May 29th. We do not intend to give up.—W. S. R. Answer—The trouble is in the hatching. At some time or other the heat has been too great. This is shown by there being cripples. I know it, because I have had the same experience several times myself. Once a hat was thrown on the machine; just touched the regulator: was only on for half a day. Another time a newspaper did the same thing. My big cat slept on the incubator another night and lost me the hatch. Each of the times I worked with the little chicks, giving them everything I could think of, but without saving them. Now, I think there is a_ possibility that your incubator does not stand level and that, therefore, one side or corner of the machine is a very little higher than the other. That side or corner would be hotter than the other side without it affecting the ther- mometer and would cause all or most of the trouble. Again, are you sure the thermometer is correct? Borrow the doctor’s clinical thermometer. This is what I did and put them both into a bucket containg about two quarts of water at 103 degrees and compared the two. You do not men- tion if the hatch came out on time. I feel sure that the eggs have been overheated, or part of them have, and in this way the bowels of the chick- ens have been weakened, the yolk of the egg has not been digested and they have dwindled and _ died, or bowel trouble has come on from the indizgested yolk purtifying inside of them. I have made so many post mortem examinations that I feel sure of what I am telling you. Examine your incubator with a spirit level to see that it is level. Test your ther- mometer and then try again, at the same time setting one or two hens, and as incubation proceeds examine the eggs, comparing them. I think you will find that the eggs under the hen dry out less quickly than those in the incubator. However, if this is not the case, if your incubator eggs dry out too quickly (the air space be- ing larger than that under the hens), you will have to regulate this by the ventilators of the incubator. Keep them closed. As yours is a hot-air incubator there is no need of fanning out the stale air. The fault, if any, with your incubator is too rapid a circulation of air, thereby dry- ing the eggs out too soon. I think you had better run it half a degree cooler than you have been doing. I say this because the crivples and bowel troubles denote too high a tem_ perature. JI hope these hints may help you. Let me hear from you again if you have any more trouble. —— se POULTRY HOUSES Mushroom Houses—Will you kind- ly publish a _ plan of a Mushroom house? I expect soon to have some choice Minorcas and wish to put them in the most suitable houses.—L. J. H. Answer—In this book is a plan of the mushroom house. I have used them and found them quite satisfac- tory, except for a few defects. These were that when they were made like the cut, ten inches from the ground, the chickens would get down in the morning off their perches and were in a draught until the attendant left them out; also it was difficult to reach the chickens to handle them at night, so that I had to make a door at one end, or side. I found the open front houses. more satisfactory. These houses are made perfectly tight on three sides and the fourth side is either open entirely or closed partly either with burlap or wood. See pic- tures of these elsewhere in this book, which are used on many ranches here- abouts, Mushroom: Houses—r. In building so-called mushroom chicken houses, shed roof style, how high should the lower corner of the roof be above the ground? : = How high should the lower wall e! 3. How high above the lower edge of building should the roosting poles be placed? 4. How far from the ground should the lower edge of the house be? 5. How do they manage in Peta- luma to get good winter layers? 'Dioes each poultry man raise his own eggs for hatching?—C. W. Answer—t. From two to three feet. 2. The lower wall should not be less than two feet in height. 3. The roosting poles should be from six to twelve inches above the bottom of the wall, enough to keep the hens out of any draught. 4. I prefer the lower edge of the house to be only four inches from the ground as that gives ample room for ventilation, but in this way you have to make a trap door for the hens to get in and out; to avoid this some people make the house to stand, high- er from the ground, or about ten inches, placing the roosting poles also higher, or about ‘two feet from the zround. With the lighter ‘breeds such as Leghorns this does all right, but heavier birds are apt to bruise ‘their feet if they have to fly down from that height. 5. In Petaluma the poultrymen nearly all raise their own chickens, but some buy the young chickens from some excellent hatcheries they have there, and where they get them well hatched at one day old. They get the winter layers by having early hatched pullets and feeding them right. More About Poultry Houses—lIt is with great pleasure I take advantage of your invitation to write you. I have been taking the Orange Judd Farmer for several years. It is quot- ed as a supposed authority. I have also several Standard poultry books. But for solid facts, and nut-shell in- formation, the poultry department of the Live Stock Tribune gets away with the cake. Now the facts in chick- en-house building are just what I am after at the present time. Reliable and practical information as to the successful kind of chicken houses. I may say I am considered a first-class carpenter, so the labor will not hurt me. I do not wish to build anything in the nature of a luxury, but practical, up-to-date convenience, and a nice size to keep chickens healthy. One of the most important questions with me is ventilation without caus- ing disease. Have several types of coops in mind. First, open on one side and enclosed on the other three. Second, open all around below the roosts (which class I think would need ventilation at the ridge, and I am afraid would create injurious draught from below). Third, open above and below roosts, and tight boarded all around upon line of roosts. If you could suggest something bet- ter than any of the above, I should be more than pleased to hear of it. From your articles I have the faith in you that moves hills and even mountains. —A.J.R. 162 MRS. BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK Answer — You have decidedly formed the right idea of ventilation; there must be pure air but no draughts in a hennery. Your first plan is the best. You must have the open side turned away from the night breeze. There are pictures of houses of this description in this book. This is called the open-air house. Your second is the mushroom house, so called. It also is good, but must have no opening, or ventilation at the ridge, as that would cause an injurious draught. I have tried both of these plans, and find them both admirable. In fact, fowls of healthy parentage will never be sick in houses of either plan if they have sufficient green food and pure water. The air in these houses passes over the drop- pings and carries off the effiuvia, so the house never smells close, and in the mushroom house, the heat from the bodies of the fowls is conserved in the top of the house and they do not feel the chill of the night air, which draws upon their vitality, con- sequently upon the egg production. These are the most sanitary arrange- ments for henneries in this climate I have tried. The third plan you men- tion, would not be satisfactory. It would be too draughty. Housing Chicks—Do you think it advisable and safe to have four months old chicks in a house facing towards the north with boards for half and burlap for the other half of the front? If not, would canvas be better? Is canvas waterproof enough for a chicken house?—C. W. S. Answer—I think it quite safe to put four months old ciurcks in a house facing the north such as you describe. Give the chicks plenty of fresh air but no draughts. A crack or a knot hole will give colds, bronchitis and roup. ‘Canvas is water-proof enough for a chicken house and makes a good chicken house. You can easily find if it leaks, and mend the hole, or you can even paint it with oil. Whitewash—Is there a good cheap way to make whitewash that will stay inside and out of poultry houses and stand rain and sun without scaling off so) soon? iB.” Answer—Here is a_ recipe for whitewash which is unrivaled. It will stand the wear and tear of the elements for a long time. Anyone by adopting the following formula, cannot help attaining success: Into a tight box or barrel, put five or six gallons of hot water in which has been dissolved four or five pounds of coarse ground salt. Into this put a pail full of the best lime obtainable. The large lumps should be broken into quite small pieces. Immediately cover the barrel and cover with a heavy weight, in order to keep it in place when the lime is slaking, for the uplifting power of the boiling mass will be surprisingly great. Af- ter a few moments uncover and stir the mixture to the bottom with a long stick, then recover and keep closed for a day or two. When fuliy slaked the lime should be of the consistency of thick cream. When applied to hen houses or a fence, it should be thinned with water to the consistency of common paint. If too much water is used in slak- | ing, the lime will be drowned and as a result, the wash will be thin and watery. If not enouzgh water is used, the lime will “burn” and granulate. If properly slaked, the mass will be smooth and free from lumps. When applying the whitewash, dip out a sufficient quantity into a pail, then stir in a handful: of cement. This will cause the wash to firmly adhere to the surface to which it is applied. It will be a dazzling white- ness and will “lay on” like paint. An excellent plan when whitewash is to be used about the hen house, chicken coops, etc., is to put in a lib- eral quantity of crude carbolic acid. This may be a lengthy description of the simple process of making whitewash, but anyone will find the recipe first-class. The old-time meth- od of slaking lime in cold water and applying the weak solution is very unsatisfactory. Burglar Alarm—I refer to the men- tion made by you of an electric bur- glar alarm to protect poultry houses, and would venture to inquire whether such an alarm may be installed by one not a_ professional electrician. Upon what principal is it based, and what are the materials needed?— FHM: Answer—I put in the burglar alarm you speak of myself. JI am not a professional electrician, but I went to the electrical supply house, bought POULTRY HOUSES 163 from them the ordinary alarm fix- tures which are used at the door and windows of residences; they ex- plained to me how to set them, and I did it by their directions. I did not find it difficult. None of the doors or windows in my hennery could be opened four inches without the alarm gong at the head of my bed, ring- ing. I should think you would have to understand a little about it to put them in. Moving Chicken Houses—I have an orchard and am thinking of going there and confining my hens in a house large enough for twenty-five. I propose to attach to the house a closed covered run twelve or fifteen feet by five. This house and run I could move say twenty feet every week. At that rate of movement it will take about six months going from one end to the other. The shift- ing of position would give new soil to scratch on each week. It would be necessary to confine the fowls as I have outlined for six or seven months to keep them away from the grape vines planted in the place. There would be some shade from young trees. When the grapes were off the vines the fowls could be turned loose, that would be during the winter months. Is the plan practical? How long do you think it might be worked until one would have to quit because of ay and loss of vitality?—H. Soa Answer—Your plan is quite feasible and there is no reason for it not last- ing for years, but I would advise you to move the house and yard twice a week as the yard is small for the twenty-five fowls. You will have to keep the fowls healthy by making them exercise and by not feedinz any mashes but plenty of green _ food. Moving the house and run frequently will spread the chicken droppings over the place and in a few years make your orchard very fertile. By keeping the hens vigorous, clean, out of draughts, there is no need for roup or any “colds in your part of Cali- fornia. Management of Poultry—Kindly let me know where I can get full in- formation and feeding, etc., of poul- try; in fact, good ideas of how to run a chicken ranch as [| intended shortly to make my home in Idaho and resort to this occupation.—D. B., New York. Answer—You had better take the Live Stock Tribune, published in Los Angeles, as it is considered the best poultry magazine west of the Rockies and deals with the conditions of the Pacific Coast and adjacent States, so that you would find this western paper of more use to you than any eastern paper. The price is only 50 cents a year. Willing to Learn—I am _ thinking of starting in the poultry business and would like to ask a few questions. Are incubators a success? Why is it neces- sary to test the eggs? Is it best to put young chickens in a brooder or to give them to a hen? Why could one not put eggs in the incubator as they are layed, say two or three a day and take the chickens out as they hatch?—F.L. Answer—Incubators are a success if you get a good standard make. Find out what your neighbors are using successfully. It is necessary to test the eggs to take out the in- fertile ones and use them for eating or cooking so as not to waste them, also the infertile egg not having life in it is cold and chills the neighbor egg which has life in it. If you use an incubator, it is neces- sary to have a brooder, as you will hatch too many chickens to go under a hen: It is not best to put eggs into the incubator as they are layed, because for the last two days of incubation the incubator should remain closed, also for the first two days—and between those periods the eggs have to be moved, turned, and taken out of the incubator and cooled, consequently it is best to save the eggs until you have enough either to put under the hen or fill ‘the incubator. YARD ROOM How Many Chickens to Keep on a City Lot—Will you kindly tell me how many chickens can be kept on a city lot seventy-five by a hundred and eighty feet? Do you think chick- ens will lay well during the rainy sea- son in Seattle, Wash., if they are properly fed and housed? How big a house do we need for fifty chickens? Last September we bought thirty Plymouth Rock hens and thirty pul- lets. We got from Io to 16 eggs from the hens per day, until about the middle of December when they be- gan to fall off. We are still getting that amount, but half of them are from the pullets. Do you think they are doing as well as we could expect? —Mrs. L. E. S. Answer—In your climate it would very much depend upon the shelter from the rain that you can give the chickens. Fifty chickens should be divided into two pens with two houses. Each house not less than ten by twelve feet in size. I would ad- vise a good scratching pen to be made either adjoining the house and cov- ered with a roof, or else make the scratching pen to extend underneath the dropping boards. You might keep several hundred hens upon land 75x180 feet if you have ample house room for them so they would be well sheltered from the rain. Hens that are wet every day will not lay well. Your fowls are doing well consider- ing the wet weather you are having. How Many on Two Acres—I have two acres of land, of which I will have a hundred feet by one hundred feet for an alfalfa ipateh, the rest © for chickens to run around and have the patch for them to feed on for an hour or so before going to roost. Kindly let me know how many chickens I can raise on the two acres at the most.—M. J. P. Answer—I think you can keep a thousand chickens on your two acres. You must be careful not to have more than fifty to roost in one house. It is the crowded condition of houses at night that brings trouble and disease. Be sure to give them shade during the day and plenty of good fresh water, besides, of course, the bal- anced ration. Allow them two hours a day on the alfalfa patch. Five Acres—Will you kindly tell me how many White Leghorns I can suc- cessfully raise on five acres of land? I want to grow alfalfa and some vege- | tables for feed. Will you also tell me if I can hatch turkeys in an incubator?—J. W. L. Answer—You can raise a_ large number of Leghorns on five acres of land. I know one party that has 3,000 Leghorns on three acres, but it entirely depends upon knowing how to do and doing it right. Better be- gin with a small number and when you succeed with those, increase your flock. Turkeys can be hatched in an in- cubator and raised in a brooder, but must be kept entirely separate from chickens, or they will die. Yard Room—I want to raise about 60 pullets for next winter. I have about a hundred chicks hatched out. All the yard room I can spare is ona town lot about 50x75 feet. Do you think this would be enough room for them?—Mrs, J. F. Y. Answer—It all depends upon the care you give them; if you can sup- ply them with shade, plenty of green food, clean water and a good scratch- ing place and the proper food, it will be plenty large enough. Be sure to keep them clean and free from mites and lice. MATING AND BREEDING Age for Mating—I wish to ask if a cockerel should be mated after he at- tains a year in age or can he just as well stay till a year and a half or two years old before being mated? Also I wish to know if it is quite as advantageous to mate a rooster with a pullet of his own clutch, sup- posing the pullet and rooster are both a year and a half old. I would like to do that if you think it advisable.— M.-S. H. AAnswer—The earliest age at which a cockerel may be mated should be about ten months, not earlier if you want large, vigorous chickens. I con- sider the best age for getting sturdy chicks is for both parents to be about two year of age. You can keep a male bird as long as you wish with- out mating him but he should be en- tirely out of sight and out of hearing of the hens, otherwise he will fret to get to them. I have known several to drop down dead from getting too much excited at seeing other young males in the pens with the hens. From _a year and a half t6 three years of age is undoubtedly the best age at which to mate the fowls but you can have very good results with older fowls. In your place I would certainly mate the year and a half male with the year and a half hen and expect good results, for they should both be in their prime. Mating Brother and Sister—Is there any objection to mating a_ rooster with hens of his own clutch if they are all old enough, say a year and a half or two years old?—Mrs. G. S. H. Answer—It is considered best not to mate brother and sister together, yet this is always done in making any new breed, and as yours comes from a three hundred egg a year hen, I would advise you to do so Breeding—I have a nice R. I. R. cockerel. He is good shape and color but he is not up to standard weight. If I breed from him will he produce chicks larger than himself if they are well taken care of? Is there any chance of getting perfect specimen from fowls under weight? I bought some very fine looking hens, but their breasts are uneven. I also got eggs from the same stock and the pullets have crooked breasts. Kindly tell me if that trouble will be handed down if I breed from them—Mrs. C. R. Answer—As a rule, the chicks take their size from the mother. If your R. I. R. hens have a good size the chickens will be larger than the cockerel, if you feed them for large frame. If the hens are under weight and size, you may have difficulty in increasing the size of the offspring. Some people think that crooked breastbones come from _ chickens roosting on a narrow perch when they are young; however I think it is generally conceded that crooked breast-bones are often hereditary. You will know if your chickens have roosted at too early an age. If not, it is hereditary and you~. had _ better .change the strain. Crossing Leghorns—Please let me know if it is profitable or a good plan to cross Brown Leghorn hens with a White Leghorn rooster. What kind of looking chicks are produced by such crossing?—F. V. Answer—I do not think it would be a good plan to cross the Brown and Whthite Leghorns. The chicks would ‘be unevenly marked, some white, some brown, and a few mixed, and nothing would be gained by crossing. Mating Parent and Offspring—I have a choice Barred Rock hen that I have mated with a vigorous young cockerel. I expect next year to mate her with one of her sons and the pul- lets with their father. Beyond this I am somewhat muddled as to the ptoper matings in order to establish a flock of “line-bred” fowls. Kindly explain the proper steps to take— 1B, Answer—It would entirely depend upon the results of your first and sec- ond mattings, the results of which nobody could possibly foretell, es- pecially not knowing the parent birds. You would probably have to establish a double mating, keeping one pen for cockerel breeding and the other for 166 MRS. -BASLEY’S POUL@RY BOOK pullet. All you can do is to wait and see the results and then get some one who is a good judge to look at your fowls and tell you which colors (whether dark or light) you should mate together, also. which _ shapes, whether blocky or rangy. Increasing Size of Eggs—I have a number of chicks, White Leghorns and Black Minorcas, which are penned up in a certain number in each corral, which is quite large. I feed warm mash in the morning, at moon mixed eran, wheat, Kathir corn, cracked corn, hulled oats and rolled barley. Afternoon I give all the cut up green clover and lettuce they can eat; before going to roost I give them all the mixed grain, the same as at noon, that. they can eat. The chickens were hatched last March and in the early summer. I would like to know if I am giving them too much clover and lettuce or too much grain, or toc much of the combined food. I have very little sickness with them and get quite a quantity of eggs, only there are quite a number of small eggs layed. Will you kindly let me know if there is any known way of increasing the size of the eggs? The ones that are lay- ing the small eggs were hatched last Mareh—Mrs. T. H. H. Answer—Leghorns and Minorcas can stand more grain than Asiatics and American breeds. You cannot over-feed with green food at this sea- son of the year. You do not mention the animal food. Each hen should have about a half-ounce of animal food per day; otherwise your feeding appears good. The only way of in- creasing the size of the eggs is by selecting as breeders hens that lay large eggs and only setting eggs from those fowls. Leghorn pullets lay a small egg unless they are of the “Dbred-to-lay” strains. The second year they lay larger eggs. A liberal feeding of animal food will increase the size of the eggs. You do not say how you make your mash, whether there is any animal food in it or not. Buff Leghorns or Buff Orpingtons— My husband and I have read your articles with a zreat deal of interest for a long time. We wish to start our chicken raising on a_ scientific plan and are preparing to get either Buff Leghorns or Buff Orpingtons. Are the Orpingtons a good eating fowl as well as good layers? What do you think of a pure cross between the two breeds, using the Leghorn pullets and Orpington cockerels? Of course I mean to keep the cross always pure. Where can we go to get thorough- bred fowls of either variety? Also please advise us of several good poul- try farms nearby Los Angeles which we can visit. We wish to profit by other peoples’ experience and save ourselves as much discouragement as we can. Are these ranches open to visitors on certain days? Answer-—Buff Orpingtons are ex- cellent layers and a delicious table towl. They should commence to lay at about five months of age and are good winter layers. They lay a brown ego and. are surely a beautiful bird. I do not think a cross between the Buff Orpingtons and Buff Leghorns at all advisable. There is nothing to be gained by it; nothing whatever. In making a cross, the usual way is to take a light weight male for heavy weight females. This is in order to have large chickens, as the mother very much controls the shape and size of the offspring. How would you propose to keep the cross pure? You can get thoroughbred fowls of any variety from advertisers in the Live Stock Tribune. Most of the ranches which advertise fowls for sale are glad to show them to visitors, and-a good plan would be to attend the poultry shows; there you will see the best fowls of many different breeds; can there choose those you like best, be- come acquainted with their owners and make arrangements to visit their ranches. i f y ie a = vy i ie i , | ey ‘ m- QUESTIONS OF BEGINNERS Just Starting In—I1 am just starting in the chicken business and as I know very little about it, thought I would ask you a few questions. 1. Is it good to let several breeds run together if you do not set the eges, or should each breed be confined in separate pens? 2. Is it necessary to feed meat and green food in the summer, or will they get bugs and grass enough? 3. How can I ventilate a hen house and not have a draught? Is it good to have-the windows open day and night in warm weather? I have built two chicken houses with a shed bet- tween them and lined the houses with tar paper, but each night the chickens all go into one house, and I have to carry them into the other one. How can J make them go into both houses? 4. I have an incubator that holds 240 eggs, and would like to know how to turn the eggs quickly. It takes me about ten minutes, and I think that is longer than the eggs should be out, besides, the way I turn them (catch each egg between finger and thumb and turn it over) some of the eggs get jarred some- times. 5. How many chickens should be in one inclosure if you want eggs? Should the young roosters be _ kept separate from the pullets? If so, at what age should they ‘be separated? 6. Is it necessary to feed both ground bone and oyster shells at the same time? 7.'Dio oats make good feed? If so, should they be hulled?—F. A. F. Answer—t. It is not good to let different classes of fowls run _ to- gether. The Leghorns (Mediter- ranean Class) need a more fattending food than the Plymouth Rocks. What would make a Leghorn lay well would prevent a Plymouth Rock laying, as it would make her too fat. 2. It is necessary to feed meat and green food if hens are confined in runs or yards, and if the grass dries up, turns into hay, or becomes tough in the summer time. You must be the judge yourself about this matter. 3. You can best ventilate a house by having one side entirely open or closed only in winter or rainy weath- er by a burlap curtain. If you have windows, take-the sashes out and re- place them with burlap or leave the windows open day and night in warm weather. When the chickens are going to roost of an evening, stand there with a broom and gently “shoo” half of them into one house and the other half into the other. This will teach them the way much better than to carry them. 4. If you will tell me the name of your incubator (each make has a dif- ferene shaped egg tray) I could tell you how to turn the eggs. Ten min- uets is not too long to keep the eggs out, 5. It depends upon the size of the enclosure. Twenty-five is about the best number to keep in a colony house. Separate the young roosters from the pullets as soon as you can detect the sex. 6. Feed both ground bone oyster shall. It is necessary. 7. Oats make excellent food for hens, increasing the fertility of the eggs and making the chicks larger and stronger. Hulled oats are the best. and Wants to Start Right—We have lo- cated in Hood River, Oregon. The rainy season commences about the first of December and lasts until about the first of March. It sometimes reaches zero, but only for a day or two, I am told. I wish to raise some chickens for the money there is in them. I just want to start with a few and see what success I have before I go in on a large scale. I think I would like the Buckeye Red or the Plymouth Rock. Which would be better adapted to this climate? I want the best winter layers. Could you tell me how to make and fasten droop- ing boards under the perches, as I see you advocate them in lice killing? Mrs. C. W. M. Answer—The Buckeye Reds and the Plymouth Rocks’ are both very good breeds. The Plymouth Rocks weigh about a pound more than the Buckeyes. They are both equally adapted to your climate and are con- sidered good layers. Drooping boards 168 MRS, BASLEY’S POULTRY BOOK are only a small platform nailed up underneath the perches about six inches below them for the droopings to fall on. They can be either slant- ing or level. Best Fowls for a Greenhorn—W hat is the best breed for a greenhorn to commence the poultry business with? —W. H. Y Answer—Your question is short and direct, but a difficult one to answer briefly. If you had asked me which I considered the best all-purpose fowl, I should have answered ‘one of the American breeds.” If you ask me which do the best with the handling of a greenhorn [I must say it all de- pends upon the greenhorn. If you want good layers. for the San Fran- cisco market, I should advise you to get a large strain of one of the Medi- terranean varieties, for they lay white eggs. As a rule the man who is un- acquainted with poultry will do fully as well with that class. It is next to an impossibility to get them so fat that they will not lay. In fact they will lay on almost any kind of feed- ing, provided they are comfortably and cleanly housed and have some kind of litter to scratch in. What to Do and How—As I am about to go out on a ranch where I will find 200 White Leghorns awaiting me I would like to have a few sug- gestions from you. 1. Is oyster shell just as good as grit? 2. What proportion and what kind of feed do you suggest for hens this time of year? 3. There are no pullets. Would you advise the forced moult for about half of the hens to prepare them for early winter layers? 4. Will hens (laying) need fresh meat scraps or bone if they have two acres of green alfalfa to run on or will the insects provide sufficient meat food? 5. Is dried meat and boneas good as fresh ground bone and meat? 6° “As 1 have no fryers or table fowl of any size would you advise setting some hens now so as to have fowls to eat for the winter? 7. How many roosters will I need for 200 hens? I will have ten with them. Js that all that is necessary until I want fertile eggs?—Mrs. E. R. Answer—Osyter shell is not the Same as grit and will not take its place. Hens require both. The oyster shell is to supply the lime for the egg shell and the grit or sharp gravel to supply the place of teeth to grind the food, 2. Keep to the feed they are accus- tomed to have until the moult. 3. I would strongly advise the forced moult for half the hens to pre- pare them for winter layers. 4. Hens will not find enough ani- mal food in our climate on your range. You will have to give them either meat-meal or dried beef scraps to sup- plement the few insects they will find. Or else give them the dry granulated milk. 5. This is still an unsettled ques- tion. The fresh meat scraps are bet- ter than dried if you can petotheds fresh and without any preservative, but if they are at all stale, or if any preservative has been used they are almost poisonous and should not be used. 6. Yes! I certainly would seta few hens and would raise some chick- ens with hens for winter eating. 7. You do not need any male birds at all with hens unless you want fertile eggs. Infertile eggs are con- sidered better and keep much better than fertilized eggs. Therefore, you need not keep any male birds at all till you want to hatch the eggs. Then pen up some of your best layers with a good vigorous cockerel from an ex- tra fine egg-laying strain and you will have fine layers for another year. A Few Points—Will you be kind enough to answer a few questions for me concerning my chickens? First—What causes a comb to turn black? Second—One of my Wyandottes drooped a few days, died and upon dissecting her found she was very fat; had a fully formed egg in her, which chicken’s she evidently was unable to _ pass. What is the trouble? Third—Do chickens ever get too fat to lay? Fourth—Leghorn pullets hatched last April have not begun to lay yet. Can you tell me why? I feed whole barley, wheat, bran mash, and chick- ens have two acres of alfalfa and clo- ver to run on; also table scraps, char- Ee QUESTIONS OF BEGINNERS 169 coal, ground bone and Kaffr corn. The most of my chickens are Brown Leghorns. Fifth—How often should chickens be fed green bone?—A New Hand. Answer—First—A chicken’s comb turning black indicates liver trouble or indigestion, usually caused by lack of green food, lack of exercise and too much starch food, or it may be poison. Second—Your Wyandotte was egg- bound. By injecting a little olive oil and holding the lower part of her body in warm water for 20 minutes you might have saved her. Third—Chickens frequently get too fat to lay. Fourth—Your Leghorn pullets should all be laying by the last of November. An insufficiency of egg- making material in their food, a lack of shell or animal food and green food will keep them from laying. Fifth—Chickens should be fed green bone every other day. If you cannot get that fresh, the dried blood and bone make a very good substi- tute. Best Breeds, Etc.—I. have come from the East and am starting in chickens and would like to know which are the three best broilers, heavy chickens, and good layers. When is the best time to set chick- ens? How is the best way to pro- tect your chicks from cats? Is the scratch food you buy already mixed as good as you can make? Is there any way to cure a hen that has an egg broken inside her?—H. P. A. Answer—In this beautiful climate all breeds of chickens do well so you had better choose those that you like best. It is like asking me which flow- ers grow best and which shall I plant? All do well here if you take the proper care of them. You can set a hen ev- ery month in the year here. March is one of the best months. Make a cat-proof coop to protect your chicks from cats, or keep a good fox terrier. The scratch food that you speak of is excellent. I use it because it saves me the trouble of mixing. An expert might save a hen with an egg broken inside her, but as a novice you had better cut her head off. Beginner’s Questions—I have just bought a few chickens from a woman who is going away. She told me not to feed them any bran. She had done so and they did not do well. I asked the flour and feed man about it and he said ‘bran was the best and rolled barley was the poorest feed.” I would like to know what you advise. These two statements are flat con- tradictions. What is the best thing to kill mites or lice? One man told me to use lard for killing lice. He said it made the hens look pretty tough, yet it did not hurt them. 1 have thirty hens, all young, and some should be laying now. I feed my chickens greens in the morning. I have a grape vine and they are very fond of the leaves; I have not given them any mash;-.a little grain at night. You may have been asked these questions many ‘hundreds of times, yet everyone that starts has tc begin at the A B C—H. C. L. Answer—Bran is a very healthy food for chickens, and rolled barley is a richer or more fattening food than bran; both are good for fowls. The nutritive value of bran is 1.4 and of barley 1.6. The best thing to kill mites is to spray the house with kerosene emulsion. Burning sulphur candles is excellent if you can stop up all the cracks and air-holes of every description, then either spray the walls with water or wet the floor thoroughly and light the candles and escape out of the house shutting the door tightly behind you. Keep the house shut up for 12 hours. If the fumes of the sulphur escape from the house through the cracks, it is of but little value, therefore I prefer the spraying. For killing body lice, dust- ing the hens with a good insecticide is the best way. Greasing them with kerosene and lard was grandmother’s method, and while it frequently kills the lice, it will make young chickens quite sick. A hen to do well, needs about six ounces of food per day. Of this one- third should be green food, one-half grain and one-sixth meat or animal food. For your thirty hens they should have twice a day, about two quarts of grain, as much green food as they can eat and a pound of meat or animal food. This is just an outline of what they should have to make them lay and keep them in good condition. MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. From Beginnng to End—I have been wanting to write you for several months, but hated to do so as I feared my letter would be too long. I would like to ask about my Tittle chicks of last summer, so I will know what to do for them another year. I had very good hatches, but only raised about one-fourth of what I hatched. They all seemed hearty and strong when they hatched except a few which were crippled. One leg drew up like it would not bend at the knee and a few seemed to have something the matter with the cords of their neck; their heads drew back under them and they peeped pitifully. The rest grew fine until about two weeks old and some four or five weeks, when I thought the danger was over. They seemed to get sour crops and gas. I fed them a special chick food and was very careful to give them clean fresh wa- ter. They had no soft feed at all; plenty of grit. I cut up tender grass and clover and fed them when the weather did not permit them to be running out. I tried giving them a little soda and the little things would vomit, and I think every one that got that way died. What is best to do? One or two old hens seemed to be affected the same way, and I gave them a little soda water, then emptied their crops and gave a little more soda and they got all right, but the little ones were too weak. In April and May something seemed wrong with their digestive system, and they became very constipated. They were fed the same food, too. What do you think caused it and could you give me a remedy? They nearly all sickened and died. I am going to try again, for I love my chicks and hate to give them up, but am not much of a financial success with them, espe- cially since feed is high. From my 200 hens I get only about two dozen egzs per day and feed about three gallons of wheat in the morning, then I mix a soft feed of 1% parts bran, 1 middlings, 1 alfalfa meal, 3-4 beef- scraps dried, a little salt and cayenne pepper. I feed it either dry or just dampened a little; I alternate it with ege food and then at night I feed them wheat again, three gallons. or more. They always have some of the soft feed left at night. What is wrong with my feeding? The droopings looked like boiling molasses. We have a few Plymouth Rocks and White Minorcas, besides mixed breeds. What can I do to get better results? They all look nice and healthy. I will give you the price of feeds: Wheat, $2 per 100; barley, $1.50 per sack (80 lbs.); bran, 90 cents per sack; middlings, $1.60 per sack; beefscraps, $4 per cwt.; blood meal, $4.50 cwt.; cracked corn, $2.20 cwt. Please tell me how I could best feed at these prices. I want to learn all I can. I have read your letters for so long that you seem almost like a friend. Thanking you in advance for the help I feel sure I will get, I am.—Mrs. L. Dae Answer—I have condensed your let- ter somewhat, but am glad it was long, as it enables me to judge better what you need. About the little chicks: Those that had the crippled legs were overheated in the incubator. Those whose head drew back was caused from the eggs not being pro- perly turned during incubation, and the little ones that died of sour crops, as you call it, died from indigestion. When overheated, or not turned suffi- ciently, or have not had oxygen enough, the result is a weakened liver, and the yolk of the egg, which is drawn up into the bowel cavity the last days of the chick’s life in the shell, cannot be digested. This yolk lies in the bowel cavity, gets hardened al- most like rubber, or like a hard boiled ego, and stays there till it putrifies and poisons the chick. Diarrhoea, or “stuck-up-behind” is often one of the symptoms. The chicks, when first hatched, appear vigorous and lively, but gradually ‘become sleepy and droopy and appear to grow smailer; are chilly or feverish and huddle to- gether and finally die. This results from lack of oxygen and ventilation in the incubator. I would strongly advise you to change to another chick food. I think in your part of the country, large crops of oats are raised. T would advise you to get the hulled oats, or rolled breakfast oats, and cracked corn; mix and give instead of MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Lip) the chick food, keeping a box of beef- scrap (fine) or meat meal mixed with ‘bran, half and half, always before the little chicks, besides feeding them plenty of green food. The constipa- tion in April and’ May came from that chick feed. A little Epsom salts in their drinking water, and considerably more green food would have cured that. For little chicks, about a tea- spoonful to a quart of water would be sufficient. Another thing for little chicks—they must be kept away from the older fowls; they never do well if they run together. The soda was the right treatment for the old hens, but for little chickens the damage was done before they left the egg shell, so nothing could help them. For your 200 hens [ think you are feeding too much grain. A hen requires about five or six ounces of feed per day. About three ounces of grain (or bran, mid- dlings, etc.) 2 ounces green stuff and one ounce, or less, of animal food. Now, as to your green ieeds: Can you not get potatoes, or beets, or tur- nips, or even pumpkins cheaply? All of these fed raw are great promoters of egg laying, and are much cheaper than feeding grain. You can get ma- chines, vegetable cutters or grinders, or you can chop them up with a com- mon chopping knife, adding some on- ions occasionally, or any other vege- tables. You can boil any of these and by adding bran and cornmeal and blood-meal, make a cheap.and very palatable mash. It is in these little ways that you can economize in feed, making it cost very much less than when you have to buy the solid grain. If you can get oats as cheaply as wheat, I would advise you to buy hull- ed oats. If you cannot zet hulled oats, soak or scald the whole oats and feed those to good advantage. They will make the hens lay. The molasses-like look of the drop- pings comes from indigestion, brouzht on sometimes by too much ezg food or poor beef scraps. A little charcoal and a little bi-carbonate of soda in the drinking water will usually cure this. There are a few things to remember in feeding fowls: They like’a variety of grains and food. A variety does not cost any more but only gives one a little more trouble in mixing it. 1 get a sack of wheat, of rolled barley, cracked corn and hulled oats, mix them in one bin and feed one handful of this for each hen in the litter in the morning; or I zet what is called here, scratch-food. This is a variety of grains, wheat, cracked corn, Egyp- tian corn, millet, sunflower seeds, etc., which I get at the poultry supply houses already mixed. I feed a hand- ful of this every morning to each hen. I also keep before them what is called a dry mash—z2 parts bran, 1 middling, I corn meal, 1 alfalfa meal, 1 meat- meal. This I keep before them all the time. I also give green food (lawn clippings or vegetables) and table scraps, and when the weather is cold I add a little red pepper or chili pep- per seeds to this and I have eggs all the time. Miscellaneous Questions—Give the name, price and where to obtain a good spray pump. One that a wom- an can use and that will spray white- wash. ‘Will whitewash stick on the outside sacking of hen houses with- out any previous preparation being applied? 2. What is granulated bone fed for? How soon should it be fed to chicks? My hens eat very little and pullets will not touch it. Would it be better to mix it in the dry hop- per feed? If so, how much? 3. How soon should oyster-shell be fed to pullet? Which is best for growing chicks, beef-scraps, ‘beef-blood and bone or dried blood? If mixed in dry hopper feed, what proportion of each should be used? 4. What number of eggs a month would be considered good laying for a pen of 12 White Rocks, one year old, when laying well? Ought they to lay more next year? 5. What amount of g2rain should be fed night and morning to a hundred growing chickens that have dry hopper feed. 6. Would it be any advantage to always have green alfalfa in hoppers? 7. Have rhubarb leaves any value as green food?— MinsgeMe ihe S: Answer—You can get a good spray pump for spraynig whitewash for $1.25 at the poultry supply houses. You will have to thoroughly wet the burlap on the outside of the hen houses or the whitewash will run off without penetrating the sacking. 2. Granulated bone is fed principally for the phosphorus it contains. Ie ale used for making, or strengthening the bones of the chickens, and can be fed to them from a few days of age. There is usually about from five to 172 NIRS. « } INT HF