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/V^urreo-! , "3ohn y publisher , Ls* Murray's Handbook for Modern London,.
MODERN LONDON;
[Tempib Bab."
LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1851.
■y.
By the same Author,
ANCIENT AND MODERN LONDON; OR, A
HANDBOOK FOR LONDON; PAST AND PRESENT. Alphabetically arranged so as to facilitate reference. Second Edition, most carefully and thoroughly revised, with an Index of Names. Post 8vo, 16s.
" A dictionary, in which any building, street, institution, or other particular of London topography, may be looked out and found in its alphabetical place."
Quarterly Review.
" We can conceive no companion more welcome to an enlightened foreigner visiting the metropolis than Mr. Cunningham, with his laborious research, his scrupulous exactness, his alphabetical arrangement, and his authorities."
The Times.
"A work useful in purpose, and national in character." Morning Chronicle.
"A carefully compiled, amusing, and instructive manual of popular antiquities and street history." M'Culloch's GeograxMcal Dictionary.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY j its art, architecture, and
ASSOCIATIONS S. New Edition. lGmo, Is.
Also now reoJy,
A HANDBOOK TO THE ANTIQUITIES IN THE
BRITISH MUSEUM. By W. S. W. Vaux, F.S.A. With numerous Woodcuts. Post 8vo.
ADVERTISEMENT.
I have endeavoured in this work to place myself in the position of a well-informed guide seeking to give a stranger visiting London for the first time, all requisite information respecting lodgings, eating-houses, places of amusement, &c. ; of one whose aim it is to point out those features of the metropolis best worth seeing, with the way in which they may be seen to the best advantage.
"By the help of Murray," it has been ob- served by a writer in the Times* "the veriest cockney, the greenest school-boy, and the meekest country clergyman may leave his counter, his school, or his parsonage, and make his way through all Europe comfortably, cheaply, and expeditiously. We are not aware," the same writer adds, " of any London guides that would give the foreigner such an entire command of this metropolis, as Galignani's, for example, gives to the Englishman in Paris. What we want, however, is something more com- pendious." I will not undertake to say that this
* The Time*, Dec. 2, 1850.
a 2
IV ADVERTISEMENT,
little volume embodies the idea thrown out by the writer of the article ; but I have worked in the spirit of its suggestion, and, I hope, not unsuccessfully.
For other particulars, and for a more detailed and historical account of antiquarian London, and of streets and places no longer existing, the reader is . referred to the " Handbook for London, Past and Present," by the same author.
PETER CUNNINGHAM.
Victoria Road, Kensington, July 26, 1851.
CONTENTS.
TAGS
Introductory' Hints and Suggestions ix
The Crystal Palace xlix
Palaces of the Sovereign and Household Offices . . 1
Houses of the Principal Nobility and Gentry ... 8
Parks and Public Gardens 27
Houses of Parliament 37
The Thames and its Bridges, Thames Tunnel, Pool and
Port of London 41
Government Offices 48
Commercial Buildings and Docks 59
Markets 70
Breweries 75
Water Companies 76
Sewerage 78
Tower of London 79
Churches 92
Cemeteries 130
Courts of Law and Justice 13-4
Inxs of Court and Chancery . . , 138
Prisons, Penitentiaries, and Places of Execution . . 145
vi CONTENTS.
PAGE
Permanent Free Exhibitions 149
Theatres and Places of Amusement 175
Learned Institutions '< 181
Colleges and Schools 191
Hospitals and Charitable Institutions 203
Club Houses 215
The City and the Citizens 223
Eminent Persons born in London ....... 239
Eminent Persons buried in London 240
Houses in which eminent persons have lived . . . 244
Streets, &c, (houses unknown or not standing) in which
eminent men have lived 248
Places and Sites connected with remarkable events . 249
Out-door Monuments and Public Statues 253
Principal Thoroughfares, Squares, and Lanes . . . 255 Diary Calendar of London Occurrences in 1851-2 ; arranged
according to months, for the use of Strangers . 307 Index 319
5List of ^larts ana fHaps.
Hyde Park 28
St. James's Park 30
Regent's Park 33
The New Houses of Parliament 36
Bank of England, and its various Offices fob Divi- dends, &c. 59
Tower of London. 80
Westminster Abbey • • -94
St. Paul's Cathedral 110
British Museum ' 150
Clue-Map of London, at the Bud.
INTRODUCTORY HINTS AND
SUGGESTIONS.
1. Situation of the Metropolis. — 2. Population.— 3. Statistics of its Consumption, &c. — 4. Political and Municipal Divisions. — 5. Social Divisions— the West End.— 6. The City.— 7. Great Thoroughfares running East and "West. — 8. Ditto running North and South. — 9. Kailway Stations.— 10. How to see London quickly. — 11. How to see London leisurely. — 12. Its Six great Architectural Centres. — 13. The Parks.— 14. The Silent Highway and its Bridges.— 15. A Sail from "the Pool" to Gravesend. — 16. A Sail from Hampton Court to "Westminster Bridge.— 17. General Hints to Strangers. — 18. Cabs. — 19. Omnibuses. — 20. Letters. — 21. "Where to Lodge. — 22. "Where to Dine and Sup. — 23. Theatres and Operas.— 24. Panoramas and Miscellaneous Exhibitions. — 25. Performances of Interest to the Musician.— 26. Objects of Interest to the Painter and Connoisseur.— 27. To the Sculptor. — 28. To the Architect and Engineer. — 29. To the Antiquarian. — 30. Places and Sights which a Stranger must see. — 31. Remarkable Places near London which a Stranger should see.— 32. Residences of Foreign Ambassadors and Consuls.
T ONDOJST, the Metropolis of Great Britain and Ireland, the Mart of the world, and, according to Sir John Herschel, the centre of the terrestrial globe, is situated upon the River Thames, about fifty miles from its mouth ; the northern or richer portion lying in the counties of Middlesex and Essex, the southern in Surrey and Kent. This great capital, formed by the cities of London and Westminster, and the boroughs of Tower Hamlets, Southwark, Lambeth, Finsbury, and Marylebone, was not inaptly described by M. Say, the French political economist, when he said of it, " Londres n'est 'plus wne ville: c'est une province couverte de maisons/"
§ 2. Its population, according to the census of 1851, has reached the enormous number of 2,363,141, (1,10L358 males; 1,258,785 females). The stranger who passes along its main
viii § 3. CONSUMPTION OF VICTUALS. [The Stirrer
thorouglifures, or traverses its river, however much he might be struck with its magnitude, is yet totally unable thereby to form a true notion of what it really is ; it is only when he looks at the aggregate of the petty details, that make no striking appearance at the moment, that he finds, indeed, what a vast camp of human beings is around him.
§ 31 In the year 1849, the Metropolis consumed 1,600,000 quarters of wheat ; whilst 240,000 bullocks, 1,700,000 sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs, represented the butchers' meat upon its groaning board ; and one market alone (Leadenhall) supplied 4,024,400 head of game. This, toge- ther with 3,000,000 of salmon, irrespective of other fish and flesh, was washed down by 43,200,000 gallons of porter and ale, 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 65,000 pipes of wine. To fill its milk and cream jugs, 13,000 cattle are kept. To light it by night, 360,000 gas-lights fringe the streets, con- suming, every 24 hours, 13,000,000 cubic feet of gas. Its arterial or water system supplies the enormous quantity of 44,383,328 gallons per day, while its venous or sewer system carries off 9,502,720 cubic feet of refuse. To warm its people and to supply its factories, a fleet, containing upwards of a thousand sail, is employed bringing annually 3,000,000 tons of coal, the smoke of which has been often traced as far as Beading, 32 miles' distance, where, at times, it was so dense that the elder Herschel was unable to take observations. To clothe its multitudes, we find, by the " London Directory," that there are 23,517 tailors, 28,579 bootmakers, and upwards of 40,000 milliners and dress-makers ; whilst the domestic servants amount to an army of 168,701. By the colossal proportions of these detached statistical fragments, we are enabled to judge of the vast extent of this mighty city; as by the sight of the gigantic granite hand in the British Museum the imagination speedily builds up the towering statue of the ancient Egyptian god.
§ 4. The first and most natural action of a stranger, upon his first visit to London, is to consult its map — just as he scans narrowly the face of a new acquaintance. Let us spread out Wyld's Post-office Map, which is as good as any other, and run over with him its main divisions and characteristic features. Its political and municipal divisions are soon told.
iu Loudon.] § 4. MUNICIPAL DIVISION. — § 5. WEST END. ix
The City of London is that space which anciently lay within the walls and liberties, having for its base the K. side of the river, its W. line running up Middle Temple-lane, crossing Fleet-street at Temple Bar (the only City barrier remaining), Holborn at Southampton-buildings, skirting Smithfield, Barbican, Finsbury-circus on the N., crossing the end of Bishopsgate-street "Without, and pursuing its way southward down Petticoat-lane, across the end of Aldgate-street, and along the Minories, until it reaches the Thames at the Tower. This portion of the Metropolis alone possesses a corporation, the oldest, richest, and most powerful municipal body in the world. The City is divided into 108 parishes, of which 97 are called "Without," and 11 "Within/' the walls. This distinction is, however, merely nominal, as the walls have long since disappeared. It sends four Members to Parliament, and its population is about 160,000.
The E. line of the City of Westminster coincides with the W. line of the City of London. It is bounded to the IS". by Oxford-street, from its Tottenham-court end to its suburban extent at Kensington Gardens ; it then courses in a very singular manner through the centre of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, and reaches the Thames at Chelsea Hospital. The City of Westminster possesses no municipality, and though far more populous than " the City," containing not much under 300,000 inhabitants, sends only two members to Parliament. The five boroughs send two members each to the House of Commons. The most important, Marylebone, Finsbury, and Tower Hamlets form a continuous line lying to the N. and E. of these two cities, whilst Lambeth and Southwark are situated on the S. side of the river, the latter being styled emphatically "the Borough."
§ 5. Having thus pointed out the political divisions of London, let us turn for a moment to its social demarcations, beginning with that portion vaguely defined by the term "West End" or fashionable London. The body and centre of this district is bounded by Regent-street and Waterloo-place on the E. ; the Mall, in St. James's Park, on the S. ; Park-lane and the Queen's-walk, Green Park, on the W. ; and by Oxford- street, extending from Regent-street to Hyde Park on the N.
X § 5. TYBURNIA. BELGRAVIA. [Tuc Stranger
This square and compact body which contains the man- sions of the nobility, the Club-houses, and the squares, in which reside the Mite of fashion, is supported on the N. and S. by two new districts which spread their widely extending wings into the green fields of our Metropolitan " Far West."
Tyburnia, or the northern wing, is that vast city which has sprung up within the last 12 years from the sod, known as the Paddington district. Having been built at one time, it assumes in consequence a regularity of appearance con- trasting strangely with the older portions of the Metropolis. Fine squares, connected by spacious streets, the houses being of great altitude, give a certain air of nobility to the district. The sameness, however, caused by endless repetition of " Compo " decorations, and the prevailing white colour of the houses, distresses the eye, especially after the red brick of Grosvenor, and the older and still great fashionable squares. Tyburnia is principally inhabited by the gentry, professional men, the great City merchants, and by those who are undergoing the transitional state between commerce and fashion. Its boundaries may be said to be the Edge ware- road on the E., Bayswater on the W., Maida-hill on the N"., and Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens on the S. The point of junction with the great centre of fashionable London being the Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park.
Belgravia, or the southern wing of the West End, is comprised in the space enclosed by Grosvenor-place on the E., Sloane-street on the W., Knightsbridge on the N., and by Ebury-street on the S. E. This space includes Belgrave and Eaton-squares, whose houses, palatial in character and size, denote the high social position of their occupants. Regularity and largeness of proportion mark this newly- built neighbourhood, and as a whole it may be said to carry a more imposing air than the district of Tyburnia. Contiguous to Belgravia lie Brompton and Chelsea : the former lying low, and the air being moist and warm, is the resort of consumptive persons — it is the Torquay, in short, of the Metropolis. Close also to Belgravia on its south-eastern side lies squalid Westminster proper, like
»n London.] § 6. THE CITY. xi
the beggar at the rich man's gate. This district still is, as it was long before the Reformation, the head-quarters of low characters. Private liberality has lately, however, attempted to cure the plague spot by the erection of three new churches. Malaria and disease also prevail here ; the drains lying beneath the level of the Thames at high water.
To the jST.E. of Tyburnia lies the Regent's Park district, containing some fine terraces, and pretty villas. Here dwells Middle Class London. Marylebone lies between Oxford- street and the Regent's Park, and contains the still famous Portman, Manchester, and Cavendish -squares. From this neighbourhood, fashion, in its "West End course, is fading fast. Still further E. we come to the Bloomsbury district, with its well-built houses and squares, erected towards the latter portion of the last century. This portion of the Metropolis is chiefly occupied by lawyers and merchants ; its noble mansions no longer hold, as in the time of the later Georges, the rank and fashion of the Town. Still further E. we recognise the architecture of the era of Anne, and here, in the capacious dwellings of Great Ormond-street and Queen-square, now given up for the most part to lodging- house keepers, we mark the continuation from Great Queen- street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, of that westward march which fashion has taken within the last 150 years. To the S. of this line is the Strand district, which is strictly trading, with the exception of those streets running at right angles from it to the Thames, principally occupied by lodging-houses, and which, from their central situation, are much Bought after by visitors.
§ 6. The peculiarities of the City, which we now reach, are many and marked. Its principal thoroughfares are built in the peculiarly ugly style that prevailed during the reigns of the last Stuarts, dingy brick predominating everywhere. The streets are narrow and inconvenient ; of picturesqueness there is none (unless we consider the interiors of many of thepalaOM of the old merchant princes, now converted into counting- houses and chambers), and with the exception of the modern- ised portions, of convenience or of beauty there is as little. Wren, under whose direction the City was rebuilt after the Great Fire, originally intended to have laid out the Btreetl
xii § 6. THE CITY. [The Strange*
ill a regular manner : the principal thoroughfares radiating from St. Paul's with a width of not less than 70 feet. His magnificent design was not, however, adopted, and economy prevailing, the City arose as we now see it. To the antiquary it presents few features of interest, to the architect only the churches built by Wren and his pupils, and one or two more modern public buildings.
The City is, par excellence, the head-quarters of the trade and commerce of the country. Here everything is brought to a focus, and every interest has its representative. In Lincoln's Inn and the Temple the lawyers find all the quiet and retirement so congenial to their pursuits. In the great thoroughfares retail trade is triumphant. In the narrow, dim lanes, which scarce afford room for carriages to pass each other, the wholesale Manchester warehouses are congregated. In Thames-street, commerce is repre- sented by its Custom House and its great wharfs. The fruit and the fish trade dwells also in this thronged thoroughfare. In Lombard-street the money power is enthroned. In Houndsditch the Jews most do congregate. In Paternoster-row and its neighbourhood booksellers are located. St. Paul's forms the religious clement of this strange compound of interests. The Exchange and the Bank, placed side by side, might be likened to the two ventricles of the great City heart, and grouped around from first floor to garret in almost every house, are the offices of the Brokers who form the medium of circulation of the world's wealth. Yet this spot, teeming with its hundreds of thousands by day, its streets gorged to impassability by carriages, cabs, and carts, presents at night, and still more so on a Sunday, the spectacle of a deserted city. The banks closed, and tho post gone, the railway carriage, the omnibus, and the steam- boat, disperse like some centrifugal force those busy throngs of men, — the clerks to the out-skirts, the merchants and principals to their villas and mansions at the West End, only to return them fresh and invigorated for the succeeding morning's work.
The space which extends down the N. bank of the river as far as Blackwall is occupied by the various docks, wharfs, and warehouses, and inhabited by slop-sellers, crimps, [\n<]
in London.] § ,. GREAT THOROUGHFARES EAST i WEST, xiii
sailors — everything here has reference to maritime affairs. To the N. of this district lies Spitaifielda and Bethnal-
grecn, through which the Eastern Counties Railway cuts like a knife, and reveals the shops of the silk-w. readily distinguishable by the large garret 'windows, through ■which their hand-looms may be seen at work. Adjoining Spitalfields, on its western side, is Clerkenwcll, the seat of the watch trade, inhabited by the best-paid and best-informed class of artisans in London. The parish of Islington, to the N., is mostly inhabited by the middle classes, and those immediately beneath them in the social scale. It lies very high, and is considered one of the healthiest portions of the metropolis.
If we now cross to the Surrey side of the river, we come to the boroughs of South wark and Lambeth, the former, in- cluding Eermondsey, the great seat of the tanning trade ; whilst the latter is occupied generally with manufac- tories. Shadwell and Rotherhithe are the head quarters of sailors, and are but meanly built and inhabited — indeed the whole of the light bank of the Thames at London is much ' inferior in wealth and importance to that portion of the metropolis lying on the left or Middlesex shore, and to " the "West End" it is a "terra incognita.''
§ 7. To enable the visitor to find his way from point to point, the best plan will be to fix in his mind the direction of the great thoroughfares. These generally run from E. to W., and from K to S. The great E. and W. lines of streets are those which lead from either side of Hyde Park to the Bank, and then fork off again, and terminate in the re- mote E. side of the metropolis, forming a design some- what in the shape of an hour-glass.
^2^2}. £ Cheapaide.^-SCornhfll. Lca-lenl.Ml •
To the X. of these lines sweep the New and City which run like a boulevard almost completely round the
xiv § 8. GT. THOROUGHFARES NORTH & SOUTH. [The Stranger
N. and E. of the metropolis. On the S. side of the river, Stamford-street and the York-road follow for some distance the curve of the water, and, together -with the New Cut and its continuations, intersect the different roads lead- ing from the bridges.
§ 8. The streets running N. and S., in the West End, are the Edgeware-road, leading from the end of Oxford-street to St. John's-wood; Portland-place and Eegent-street, running from Eegent's Park to Charing-cross : Hampstead and Tot- tenham-court-roads, connecting Hampstead with Holborn. The City is brought into connection with its northern suburbs by Gray's Inn-lane, which runs from Holbom-hill to the New-road; by Aldersgate-street and Goswell-street, which lead in a direct line from the Post Office, at St. Martin's -le- Grand, to the Angel at Islington ; and by the lines of Grace- church-street, Bishopsgate-street within and without, Norton- folgate, and Shoreditch, which bring Kingsland and Hoxton in direct connection with London Bridge and the Borough. There are many other streets which run parallel to these, but we have given the main omnibus routes, as the lines most useful to the stranger.
On the Surrey side of the water the roads converge from the different bridges to the well-known house, the Elephant and Castle, which is about equi-distant from all of them (excepting Vauxhall Bridge) ; from the tavern they again diverge, the North Kent-road leading to Greenwich, and the Kennington and Newington-roads leading to Brixton and Tulse Hill.
The streets of the Metropolis, if put together, would extend 3000 miles in length — the main thoroughfares, such as we have mentioned, are traversed by 3000 omnibuses, and 3500 cabs (besides private carriages and carts), employing 40,000 horses.
In addition to these noisy and thronged thoroughfares, we have what has been called "the silent highway " of the Thames, running through the heai't of the Metropolis, and traversed continually by hundreds of steamboats, which take up and set down passengers at the different places between Chelsea and Blackwall, Greenwich and Gravesend, and when the tide serves running up as high as Hampton Court, calling at all the intermediate places on the banks of the Thames.
in London.] § 9. RAILWAY STATIONS. XV
§ 9. So rail cli for the internal communications of the Metro- polis. Its connection with the provinces is kept up by the various railways which diverge from it in every direction : — the Great Western Railway from its station at Paddington ; the North- Western from Euston-square, by the New Road ; the direct Northern from King's-cross ; the Eastern Counties from Shoreditch; the Blackwall from Mark-lane ; the South- Western from Waterloo Bridge ; whilst the London Bridge station has 5 separate lines supplying the counties of Kent, Sussex, and Surrey with railway communication. By means of these different lines, along which the telegraph is laid down, the Metropolis is put in instant connection with upwards of a hundred of the chief cities and towns of the United Kingdom ; the wires converging from the different stations to the Central Telegraph Office at Lothbury, where messages are received and transmitted night and day. The telegraph is also laid down beneath the streets between the City and the West End, a branch office being situated at the Strand, (sending a wire to the Government offices at Whitehall), and another near the Albert Gate, Knightsbridge, communicating with the Crystal Palace, thus putting the various provincial exhibiting manufacturers in constant communication with their houses of business. From the London Bridge wharf and from the Tower-stairs, start the various Continental steam- boats, and from the former especially, the Margate and Ramsgate boats, which often make excursions on the Sunday to those places and back the same day.
§ 10. Having put the stranger in possession of the '-bearings" of the different streets, it will be as well to show him how he can comprehend in the quickest way the most remarkable features of the Metropolis. He can do this in no better and more economical manner than by taking the box-seat on an omnibus, and making friends with the driver. Let him take for instance a Kensington omnibus, and go as far eastward as the Bank. In this manner he will make himself acquainted, by the driver's help, with the characteristic features of Picca- dilly, with its noble mansions, and of the great thoroughfares of the Strand, Fleet-street, and Cheapside. If he has a wish to penetrate the far east, he can do so by taking a Blackwall omnibus, but we should not advise the journey, as he would
xvi § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [TM Stranger
meet with nothing on his way to repay him for his time and trouble. The return drive might be made by a Paddington omnibus, which will take him through Holborn, New Oxford and Oxford-streets, as far as the Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. A direct N. and S. section of the MetrojDolis might be viewed by taking a '"Waterloo" omnibus, which starts from the York and Albany Tavern, Regent's Park, and pursues the line down Regent-street, past Charing-cross, and so along the Strand over Waterloo Bridge ; also by an ' Atlas ' omnibus, which traverses the same line as far as Charing-cross, and then turns down Whitehall, and goes along Parliament-street across Westminster Bridge to the Elephant and Castle. These three routes show at a rapid glance most of the architectural features of the Metropolis.
§ 11. For those, however, who have time to examine the public buildings, in a more leisurely manner, we would recommend a walk from London Bridge westward to Trafalgar-square ; then an exploration of the irregular cross, formed by Whitehall, Pall-mall, and Regent-street, which springs from this open place. By this means he will pass the six great centres of life and the architectural centres which pervade the metropolis.
§ 12. The first of these— London Bridge— is the one the Foreigner naturally sees first, and it is the spot above all others calculated to impress him most with the power and ceaseless activity of this great capital. The bridge itself, crowded with an ever-moving line of people and vehicles, and lined at the same time with the heads of curious spectators, crowded as thickly as pins in a paper, all gazing tipon the busy waters below, is a curious picture of the manner in which the two currents of business* men and sightseers are continually shouldering each other in the metropolis. On the other hand, the water below is equally instinct with life ; above bridge we see the stairs of the penny iron steam-boats, landing and taking in West End or Greenwich passengers, amid a perfect din of bell-ringing and cloud of steam-blowing. Below bridge we see the u Pool," looking, with its fleets of colliers moorod in the stream, like the avenues of a forest in the leafless winter. The Custom- . with its long columniated%ade,and the Italian-looking
in London." § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. xvii
fish-inarket at Billingsgate, also strike the eye. On either hand the foot of the bridge is Hanked with great buildings — one, the Fishmongers' Hall, belonging to one of the richest of the City companies ; the other, the Shades Hotel. Passing up Fish-street-hill we view, from base to summit, the Monu- ment, erected to commemorate the Great Fire — still the most beautiful and picturesque of all the metropolitan columns. A little farther on, William IV.'s statue, worked in granite, stands guard at the entrance of King- William-street — one of the new thoroughfares built within these last few years. At the end of this we come to the great commercial and architectural centre of the metropolis — the Bank, a low, richly-adorned building — admirably adapted to the purposes of its foundation. The open space just here is sur- rounded on every side by several striking architectural ele- vations. The Exchange, the Sun Fire-office, the Mansion- house, and the towers of St. Mary's Woolnoth, mark the sky line in a most picturesque manner. The Poultry and Cheap- side present few features of interest. Passing King-street, however, the pseudo-Gothic front of Guildhall, standing full in the light at the end of a gloomy narrow street, strikes one as picturesque and perhaps noble, notwithstanding the viciousness of its style, while the stately steeple of Bow Church (Wren's finest steeple) never fails to arrest the attention of the stranger. The comparative narrowness of Cheapside, and the turn which it takes into St. Paul's-church- yard, brings the visitor upon the cathedral quite unexpectedly, and its size is, perhaps, magnified by the close opposition of the houses which surround it on all sides. The Post Office close on the right — a rather heavy Grecian building of the Ionic order — is the centre of the postal system of Great Britain and Ireland.
As we pass down Ludgate-hill and along Fleet-street and the Strand, we gradually see how the characteristic features of the one city mingle with those of the other. How West- minster loves to spend lavishly what London has laboriously earned. The counting-houses of the "City" have slowly dis- appeared, and the shops have put on a gayer and more miscellaneous aspect; at last Charing-cross is reached, and we recognise at once the great West End architectural
b
xviii § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [The8tn*0(
centre, from which improvement has shot out on even- side. Standing on the raised platform beneath the portico of the National Gallery, we see before us the rising towers of the seat of the Legislature, and the perspective of the leading Government offices forming a line of street by themselves ; on the left hand the beautiful church of St. Martin's-in- the-Fields, and on the right the perspective of Pall-mall, with its splendid Club-houses. Well might the late Sir R. Peel have designated it " the finest site in Europe." The square itself, with its ugly fountains and its ill-proportioned column, will require entirely remodelling before it will be worthy of its position, and we have purposely turned our visitor s back to the National Gallery that he might not be offended with its meanness. Charing-cross might be con- sidered the centre of the arts, as the Bank is the centre of commerce. Turning directly down Whitehall, we come to the quarter of the city devoted to the principal Government offices and the Legislature; on the left hand Ave pass the Admiralty (distinguished by its gloomy portico) from which the fleets of England are governed ; close beside is the Horse Guards, from which her armies receive the word of command. The long range of buildings on the right, which look so rich in perspective, consists of the Home Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Treasury, all under one roof, and the little narrow street forming a cul de sac, which terminates it, is the world-famous Downing-street, containing the official residences of the Prime Minister, the Foreign Office, and the Colonial Office. On the opposite side of the way is Gwydyr House, the office of the Board of Health, and the Banquetting-house of the old Palace of Whitehall, the most beautiful work of Inigo Jones; in front of which King Charles I. was beheaded.
The fourth great architectural centre of the Metropolis is at the end of Parliament-street. Here the Church, the Law, and the Legislature, are represented. The first in the noble old Abbey, the second in the Courts off Westminster Sail, and the third in the New Palace of Westminster, srhoM towers, rising to a gigantic height, break in from point to point upon the sight. This spot, indeed, might be considered the intellectual centre of the Metropolis — within so small a
iu London.. § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. xix
.space, the earth, perhaps, holds not so many distinguished men amongst the living and the dead.
As we have described at full length the interesting build- ings of this quarter in another portion of the volume, we shall return at once to Charing-cross, and passing along its northern thoroughfare come to Waterloo-place, not inaptly called the centre of social and political life. Here we are in the heart of Club-land. Looking towards the Duke of York's Column, which terminates the view, we have on our right hand the Athenaeum, chiefly frequented by literary men ; on the left, and exactly opposite it, the United Service Club, whose mem- bers are naval and military veterans. Next to the Athena3um, which stands at the commencement of Pall-mall west, is the Travellers'. The Reform, which is observable from its great size and from its Italian architecture, follows. The Carlton, the head-quarters of the Conservatives, succeeds. At present this Club presents a very unfinished appearance, one half being of the Tuscan order, and the other, lately erected, being a copy of a Palazzo at Venice. When the whole Club is rebuilt in this style, it will be one of the handsomest in London. The Oxford and Cambridge and the Guards Club houses complete this side of the street of palaces. On the opposite side, at the corner turning into St. James's-square, is the newly-erected Army and Navy Club, the most elaborately decorated of them all.
At the bottom of St. James's-street stands St. James's Palace, a dingy but picturesque old building full of historical associations. Ascending the street, on the left hand side is seen the Conservative Club, Arthur's and Brooks's (the whig head-quarters), whilst near the top is the old famous or infamous Crockford's. " White's " and " Boodle's," once fashionable political Clubs, but now principally resorted to by elderly country gentlemen, stand on the opposite side near the top. The stranger should endeavour to procure orders (given by members) to see some of these Clubs, especially the Reform, famous for its central hall, and its kitchen planned by M. Soyer, and the Conservative and Army and Navy Clubs, the staircases and apartments of both of which are very beautiful.
Returning now to Waterloo-place, after noticing for a few
b 2
XX § 13. THE PARKS. Th< Stranger
moments the noble park front of Carl ton-terrace which stands upon the site of Carlton House, the visitor will walk with us up Regent-street. This street was built by Nash, and is varied in its architecture if not blameless in taste — the Quadrant, which takes a sweep immediately above the Circus, is certainly a beautiful feature in the street. A few years since, a piazza covered in the footways on both sides of the street, and the double cmwe of columns thus formed had a noble effect at the distance, but their removal has certainly contributed to the decency and cheerfulness of the street. The lath and plaster style of its architecture has given rise to the reproach that it cannot stand either wind or weather. Nevertheless, it is the brightest and most cheerful street in the Metropolis, and its sunny side with its shops (many of which are French) filled with elegancies of all kinds, especially those pertaining to the female toilet, is one of the liveliest promenades in the Metropolis between the hours of 3 and 6 o'clock in the afternoon. Portland-place, a wide monotonous street, forms the continuation of Regent-street ; this debouches upon Park-crescent, a fine sweep of houses forming the entrance to the Regent's Park, and called by its architect, Nash, the key to Marylebone.
When the visitor has well surveyed the routes we have pointed out to him, and passed along New Oxford-street which the Commissioners of Woods and Forests of the Crown have lately ei-ected, and which presents an irregular pattern card of almost every style, he will have made himself master of the entire street architecture of London.
§ 13. The parks of the Metropolis, which have been aptly called the lungs of London, surround, as with a necklace, its dense mass of houses — the West End being better supplied witli them than any other portion. Indeed, so close do St. James's, the Green Park, Hyde Park, and Kensington Gardens, lie to each other, that the lounger might walk from Charing-cross, the very heart of the Metropolis, to Bayswater, a distance of three miles, scarcely taking his feet off the sod. These three parks enclose London on its W. Bide, whilst Regent's Park lies to the N.W., and tho Victoria Park to the N.E. ; and it is in contemplation to lay out public pleasure-grounds in the borough of Fiusbury, a spot midway I 0 as to
THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES. XXl
make the chain complete on the N. banks of the river. The S. side has hitherto been very deficient in public pleasure-grounds, but Battersea Park, as yet unfinished, will supply the deficiency which was in part made up by the large suburban parks of Greenwich and Eichmond and Kew Gardens, lying to the extreme Eastern and Western limits of the Metropolis. Besides these open spaces, which are beautifully laid out, the ventilation of the Great Babylon is in some degree provided for by its numerous squares, some of them of large extent, and planted with trees, its Botanic Gardens, Cemeteries, and Nurseries, which, taken together, occupy many hundred acres of ground.
To make the stranger comprehend at a rapid glance the immense amount of business done in London as a Port, we would take him along Upper and Lower Thames-street, and Tooley-street in the Borough, whose gigantic warehouses keep the thoroughfare in a perpetual gloom, and whose cranes hold in mid air during the day the varied produce of the world. The Custom-house quay, with its long room ; Bil- lingsgate-market, and the Coal-market close at hand, might be taken in the walk, which would be terminated by St. Katherine's and the London Docks.
§ 14. Having traversed the principal streets, both architec- tural and commercial, let us take boat with our visitor and showhim the great water thoroughfare of the Metropolis, which displays in a more complete manner, perhaps, than any other, what London really is both in extent and character. Taking one of the twopenny steamers at Westminster Bridge, he sees before him several specimens of that bridge architecture which has made London so famous. Westminster Bridge, under whose shadow he for a moment rests, was built in the middle of the last century — it spans the river with 1 5 arches, and is 1066 feet in length. In all probability, the visitor will look upon this once imposing structure for the last time, as it has long been in a dangerous condition, and will make way, at no distant day, for a new one, built in the per- pendicular or Tudor style, and in keeping with the adjacent Houses of Parliament.
Through the arches of the bridge this magnificent building might be seen rising from the water like some great coral
XXli § 14. THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES. [The Stranger
island, the perpendicular lines which characterise its architec- ture giving it considerable lightness and beauty. The banks of the river on either side for some distance are occupied by mud-banks, mean wharfs and buildings, which, though at times somewhat picturesque, are certainly not metropolitan in their character. Hungerford Suspension Bridge, starting on the Middlesex shore from the Italian-looking Hungerford- market, next hangs its thread-like chains across the widest portion of the Thames. In contrast with this gossamer-like structure is the Waterloo Bridge, with its nine arches, the centre one having a span of 120 feet. This bridge, which is quite level, and built of the finest granite, is certainly a beautiful structure, and well becomes the noble facade of Somerset House, which rises from a terrace immediately below it, on its right hand, and extends for 400 feet along the river. A little farther along on the same shore, the pleasant Temple gardens stand out, green and nourishing, amid the sur- rounding blackness of the city. Blackfriars Bridge, over which peers the stately dome of St. Paul's, is next passed under ; then comes " the thick " of the City, on the left bank, and the sky is penetrated by the spires of numerous churches, indicating by their numbers, though in that respect imperfectly, the ancestral piety of London. Southwark Bridge, built of iron, is remarkable for the vast span of its central arch, which is no less than 240 feet.
London Bridge, the last or most sea-ward of the metropo- litan bridges, with its five granite leaps crossing the Thames, divides London into " above" and " below" bridge. " Above bridge," the only occupants of the river are coal barges — the bright-coloured and picturesque Thames hoys, laden with straw, — and the crowded penny and two -penny steam -boats, darting along with almost railway rapidity. Immediately the arches of the bridge are shot, the scene is changed at once. The visitor finds himself in a vast estuary, crowded with ships as far as the eye can reach. All the great commercial buildings lie on the left bank of the Thames. The Fish-market (Billingsgate), a new structure, the Coal Exchange, are rapidly passed one after the other ; and the Tower, square and massive, with its irregular out-buildings, and its famous Traitor's -gate, terminates the boundary of the City.
iii London.] § 15. FROM " THE POOL " TO GRAVESEND. xxiii
§ 15. "The Pool," as it is called, commences just below, and the river is divided into two channels by the treble range of colliers anchored here to discharge their cargoes — 12,074 of which giving a tonnage of 3,339,116 were imported into Lon- don in 1819. Only a certain number of these dingy -looking colliers are admitted into the " pool" at once, the re- mainder waiting in " the lower pool," until the flag which denotes that it is full is lowered, when those who are first in rank enter. The greatest order and regularity in marshalling these coal fleets is absolutely necessary to avoid choking the water-way ; and as it is, so much inconvenience is expe- rienced, that it is in contemplation to excavate docks for them in the tongue of land opposite Greenwich, called the Isle of Dogs. A little past the Tower are the St. Katherine's-docks, inclosed by tall warehouses, over which the masts of the larger shipping are observable. The London Docks succeed, and in connection with them are the famous wine vaults, in which as many as 65,000 pipes of wine can be stowed. Just past the first entrance to these docks, the steamer passes over the last land connection between the two shores. The famous Thames Tunnel lies under the voyager's feet, and it might be that at the very moment he passes, light and life, music and laughter, such as the mermaids never enjoyed even in old song, is going on below these waters which look so calm and deep ; for fairs and fetes, and even balls are matters of constant occurrence in the Tunnel, in the line of arches not used as a public thoroughfare. On the opposite shore is the Grand Surrey Dock, covering a large area, and devoted, together with the Commercial and Greenland Docks, to the timber and corn trade.
Just below the Pool, where the river takes an abrupt bend in its course at Limehouse-reach, is one of the entrances to the West India Docks. These docks run right across the base of the tongue of land called the Isle of Dogs, and open into Blackwall-reach ; and the crowd of masts seen across the pasturage looks almost like a grove of trees.
Deptford (on the right-hand as you pass down Limehouse- reach) is a government dockyard and the seat of the victualling department, which every stranger should see. There are always several ships of war, steamers and others,
JOd? § 16. FROM " THE TOOL ' TO GRAVESEND. [TI.c Strainer
lying off the wharf, and underneath its vast building sheds, the ribs of some future Leviathan of the deep are generally to be seen growing up under the busy hammers of the ship- wrights. The steamer has scarce passed Deptford when the "Dreadnought" hospital-ship, the hulk of a 120-gun ship, rears itself out of the water, affording a noble example of the size and power of a first-rate man-of-war. This old ship stands as a kind of outwork to Greenwich Hospital, whose noble cupolas and double range of columniated buildings rise just beyond, a worthy dwelling for our decayed old naval worthies. Nothing can be more picturesque than Greenwich as you pass down the river. The old irregularly built town and the palace-like hospital are backed by the rising ground of Greenwich Park with its splendid sweet chestnut trees, and crowned by the observatory, from which place the Saxon race throughout the world marks its longitude. The exact time is marked to the shipping below by the fall of a large black ball, which slides down a mast surmounting the top of the building, every day at noon ; by this means the thousand commanders in the river below have a daily op- portunity of testing the accuracy of their chronometers.
Below Greenwich the river for some distance is dull enough, low flat shores extending on either side, until Blackwall is reached, with its Italian looking railway station, and its quay, always in fine weather crowded with people. The East India Docks, full of the largest class merchant ships, are situated here. Still further down the river is the arsenal of Woolwich, which every visitor should see if time will allow him. The river below, and nearly all the way to its mouth, lies between flat marshes, over which the ships at anchor and in full sail appear sailing across the grass, as in some Dutch picture. Gravesend, the last town on its banks, is at least 30 miles from London ; a description of it therefore will not fall within our limits : nevertheless we would recommend a nine-penny sail from London-bridge to Gravesend, afford- ing as it does at a rapid glance a notion of the vast extent of the commerce of London.
The sailing vessels belonging to the port of London in 1850 numbered 2735, and the steamers 31S, giving employment to crews of 35,000 men and boys, whilst in
in London.] § 16. HAMPTON COURT TO WESTMINSTER Bft. XXV
the year 1848, 32,145 ships of all descriptions, entered, bearing a tonnage of 5,060,956. The customs from this enormous mass of merchandise was 11,193,7072., or half the receipts from this department for the whole country. At the same time the declared value of the exports was upwards of 11, 000,0002.
§ 16. To see the Thames in all its pastoral beauty the visitor should ascend the stream far beyond the limits of the metropolis.. The best possible way of seeing it is to take the steamer home after visiting Hampton Court (which he must not fail to do, reaching it by the line of the South Western Railway). The windings of the river make the journey a long one (two hours at least), but the lover of beautiful scenery and literary and historical associations will not regard it as time lost, as he will pass many places famous in song and in history. At Twickenham he will pass Pope's grotto (the house has been entirely rebuilt), and Strawberry-hill, the sham castle of Horace Walpole; Ham-house, an old mansion-house of the time of James I., notorious as the house where the famous " Cabal " ministers used to meet. Richmond Hill and Park, beautifully wooded, crowns the prospect further. The old palace of Sheen, famous in the early reigns, yet shows some fragments, incorporated in a modern house, the grounds of which come down to the water, at this spot crossed by Richmond Bridge, and ornamented by an island planted with weeping willows.
Below Richmond, on the right hand side, runs Kew Park, once famous as the Farm where George III. used to play the gentleman farmer ; and on the left is Sion House, the fine mansion of the Duke of Northumberland. Still further down is the charming village of Kew, with its public garden and palm-house ; Fulham succeeds, with the Bishop of London's Palace, and on either hand, amid the most verdant meadows and trees of the largest foliage, the resi- dences of the gentry and of wealthy London merchants are seen all down the river as far as Battersea, where its suburban character commences. The Thames so far is clear and beautiful, running over a gravelly bottom, and banked with verdiire on either hand. The swans, too, sailing about in fleets, add to the beauty of the water. There are a vast
XXvi § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger
number of these stately birds kept by the various City Companies at a great expense. One company (the Dyers), spending 3001. a-year upon their swans.
Below Battersea Bridge, on the right hand, extends the New Park, now in course of formation, (a carriage drive and terrace running close beside the water) ; and on the left, Cremome Gardens, shady with lofty elms ; and Chelsea Hospital, with its high roof, and the Botanic Gardens, with their picturesque-looking Cedars of Lebanon, terminate the open character of the banks which are below this occupied with manufactories or with rows of houses. At Lambeth the visitor see3 with interest the antique towers of the Primate's Palace, and the old church ; and on the opposite shore, the Penitentiary, covering a vast extent of ground, and looking like a "cut down" bastile. In immediate proximity to it is the new neighbourhood of Pimlico, which has arisen within the last five or six years, under the hands of the great builders, Messrs. Cubitt.
§ 17. General Hints to Strangers.
London should be seen between May and July.
There is not a more striking sight in London than the bustle of its great streets — the perpetually rolling tide of people, carts, carriages, gay equipages, omnibuses, in its great thoroughfares, — the variety, splendour, and wealth displayed in its shops. As a city, it must yield to Paris in the general beauty of its public buildings, and the grandeur of its tho- roughfares.
Saturday is the aristocratic day for sight seeing.
Monday is generally a workman's holiday.
Take the right hand side of those you meet in walking along the streets.
The Electric Telegraph Office is at Lothbury, near the Bank ; the branch offices are at Charing-cross, at Knights- bridge, and at the Crystal Palace.
Never listen to those who offer "smuggled" cigars in the street.
Beware of mock auctions at shops.
Avoid gambling houses or "hells." Gambling is illegal in
in London.] § 18. CABS. XXvii
England, its professors are low rogues and cheating blacklegs, and the police are instructed to make seizures of those found playing.
Beware of drinking the unwholesome water furnished to the tanks of houses from the Thames — good drinking water may be obtained from springs and pumps in any part of the town by sending for it.
To find the direction of a " west-end friend," consult Webster's Royal Red Book, which only gives the names of pi'ivate persons, price 3s. Qd.
To find the direction of any professional man or trades- man, consult The Post-office Directory, which is at once an official, street, commercial, trades, law, court, parliamentary, City, conveyance, and postal directory. The visitor may see it at any hotel or in any of the better class shops. The names and livings of Clergymen of the Church of England, may be found in the annual " Clergy List/' in London.
The confusion in the nomenclature of London streets demands correction. The street branch of the "Post Office Directory" records the existence, in various parts of the town, of 37 King-streets, 27 Queen-streets, 22 Princes- streets, and 17 Duke-streets, 35 Charles-streets, 29 John- streets, 15 James-streets, 21 George-streets, besides numerous thoroughfares with the common prefixes Robert, Thomas, Frederick, Charlotte, and Mary. Anomalies also are very common : — There are North and South-streets which lie east and west, and 10 East-streets and 11 West-streets, which point to a sufficient variety of directions to box the compass. There are as many as 24 " New-streets," and only 1 Old-street, though some of the " New " are old enough. There are no fewer than 18 York-places, 16 York-streets, 14 Cross-streets, 13 Crown- courts, 19 Park-places, 16 Union-streets, 10 Wellington-places, 10 Gloucester-streets, and 13 Gloucestei'-places. The suburbs abound in provoking repetitions of streets, squares, terraces, and groves, bearing the names of •'Victoria" and " Albert," idle compliments teazing enough to her Majesty's many subjects.
§ 18. Obtain at any bookseller's one of the books of cab fares, issued by the Commissioners of Police, or Captain Shrapnell's Sradametrical Survey of London, a still better book. Never dispute in the street with a cabman. If he is insolent
xxviii § lb. CABS. The Bow • I
and still demands an exorbitant fare, take his number and summons him before the magistrate of the division in which the offence was committed. The legal fare is 8c/. per mile — pay no more — except when you have luggage, or when your party exceeds two persons. The number of cabs in London is about 3,500, and each cabman must earn ten shillings a day before he can clear his expenses or obtain a penny for himself. A driver refusing to take a passenger any distance, not exceeding 5 miles from the place of hire, is liable to a penalty of 40s.
When the distance exceeds 3 miles from the General Post Office, back fare can be demanded after S in the evening, and before 5 in the morning, in addition to the regular fare, to the nearest point within 3 miles of the General Post Office. If the hiring takes place beyond 3 miles from the General Post Office, the passenger may pay back fare to the place of hiring, at the rate of 4 c/. per mile.
Back fare can also be demanded during the day-time, when the distance is beyond 4 miles from the General Post Office, but for the distance only exceeding 3 miles from the General Post Office.
Luggage, beyond what can be carried in the passenger's two hands at the same time, can be charged for by the driver. N.B. As there is no law at present to regulate the charge for excess of baggage, to guide either the passenger or driver, it is suggested to always make a bargain at first, to avoid disputes ; and that 2d. a journey for each trunk or box, beyond a carpet-bag, portmanteau, hat-box, or bonnet-box (the undoubted right of one passenger in one conveyance), is recommended as ample remuneration. Should there be two or more passengers in the same conveyance, the extra baggage should be considered as the excess of luggage of one passenger.
Agreements to receive or pay more than the legal fare are not binding.
Whatever number of persons a Oftb is licensed to carry, the legal fare only can be demanded. If more persons than the licensed number are permitted to ride, any agreement beyond the legal fare is not binding.
J ►rivers arc entitled to demand after the rate of 2*. an
in Loudon" § 10. OMNIBUSES. xxix
hour for waiting, beyond the necessary time for putting up or discharging, luggage, &c.
Passengers are requested to give any driver in charge of the police, for abusive language, should he be hired from a street or stand ; and if hired from a railway station, to take his number, and report him to the Secretary thereof.*
If you are in a hurry, and want to catch a railway train, call a Hansom-cab, and promise the man a shilling above his fare.
§ 19. Omnibus routes in London lie principally north and south, east and west, through the central parts of London, to and from the extreme suburbs. The majority commence run- ning at 9 in the morning, and continue till 12 at night, suc- ceeding each other during the busy parts of the day every five minutes. Most of them have two charges — fourpence for part of the distance, and sixpence for the whole distance. It will be well, however, in all cases to inquire the fare to the particular spot ; wherever there is a doubt the conductors will demand the full fare. If you leave any article either in a "bus " or cab, apply for it at the Excise Office, Old Broad-street, City.
The following are the main lines : —
Omnibuses inscribed " Brompton," run between Gunter's Arms (Brompton), and the Bank.
Omnibuses inscribed " Putney," run between Putney, Brompton, the Bank, and the London-bridge Railway Station.
Omnibuses inscribed "Richmond," run between Richmond and the Bank, fare Is.
Omnibuses inscribed "Conveyance Company," run between Paddington and Hungerford-market (Charing-cross).
Omnibuses inscribed "Hammersmith" or "Kensington," run between the Bank and those places.
Omnibuses without inscription, run in the same direction.
Omnibuses inscribed "Bayswater," run between Bayswater (via Regent-street and Strand, also via Oxford-street and Holborn), to Whitcchapel and to the Bank.
Omnibuses inscribed " Kensal Green," run between the Green Man and Still, Oxford-street, and Kensal Green Cemetery.
Omnibuses inscribed " Favourite," run between Holloway and the Houses of Parliament; also to London Bridge and BlaekwalL
* Shrapnel's Stradametrical Surrey of London (July, 1851).
XXX § '20. LETTERS. [The Stranger
Omnibuses inscribed " Kilbum-gate," run between Kilburn and London-bridge.
Omnibuses inscribed "Clapnam," run between Upper Regent's-circus and Clapham.
Omnibuses inscribed "Atlas," run between St. John's Wood, and the Elephant and Castle.
Omnibuses run from the Assembly House, Kentish Town, to Whitechapel Church.
Omnibuses inscribed '•' Hampstead," run from Hampstead to the Bank ; fare, 6d.
Omnibuses inscribed " Waterloo," run between the York and Albany, Regent's-park, and the Elephant and Castle.
Omnibuses inscribed "Islington and Chelsea," run between the Angel, at Islington, and Sloane-square.
Omnibuses inscribed "Royal Blue," run between Pimlico and Blackwall.
Omnibuses inscribed " Pimlico," run between Pimlico and the Bank.
Omnibuses inscribed " Chelsea," run between King's-road, Chelsea, and the Eastern Counties Railway Station, at Shore- ditch.
Omnibuses without inscription, run between the Upper Regent's-circus and the Bank.
For fuller information respecting these popular convey- ances, we refer the visitor to Bolton's Omnibus Guide, pub- lished by Grover & Co., 238 Strand, and Field, 65 Regent's Quadrant, which gives every omnibus, whether London or suburban, with its time of starting and fare.
§ 20. Letters (for distances beyond the London delivery) can be posted at the Receiving Houses throughout the Metropolis until 5h. 30m. p.m., or with a fee of one penny, in addition to the postage, which, as well as the fee, must be paid in Post-office stamps until 6 p.m. ; at the Branch Post-offices at Charing Cross, Old Cavendish-street, and Stone's-end, Borough, until 6 p.m., or with a fee of one penny in addition to the postage, which, as well as the fee, must be paid in Post-office stamps, until Gh. 45m. p.m. ; at the Lombard-street office until 6 p.m., and until 7 p.m., provided that the postage and penny fee are both paid in Post-office stamps; at the General Post Office, St. Martin's-le-Grand, until G p.m., and
in Loudon.; § 21. WHERE TO LODGE. xxxi
at that office only until 7 p.m., with a fee of one penny, which, as well as the postage, may be paid either in money or by Post-office stamps; and until 7h. 30m. p.m. with a fee of sixpence.
There are ten deliveries of letters in London daily ; and without the circle of the three miles from the General Office and still within the environs, six daily.
The London District Posts leave and deliver about every two hours. Take care to post before \ to 8, 10, 12, and 2, 4, 6, 8.
Letters posted at the Receiving-house in London before 6 at night are delivered the same evening at all places within a circle of three miles from the General Post Office ; or if posted before 5, they are delivered in the environs the same evening.
§ 21. The first thing a stranger requires on reaching London, is, to be conveniently lodged, a matter in which he might find some difficulty, unless he has the direction of some one accmainted with the metropolis. Those to whom expense is no object, and who wish to be at the West End of London, will drive to the neighbourhood of St. James's, and will find in the chief streets there every accommodation for families or bache- lors. The best Hotels in this district are the Clarendon, in New Bond-street, Mivart's, in Brook-street, and Grillou's, St. George, in Albemarle-street; Fenton's, Christie's, and Ellis's, in St. James-street; and the numerous hotels in Jermyn- street, Albemarle-street, and Dover-street; Long's and the Blenheim, in Bond-street ; the Burlington and Queen's, in Cork-street, may safely be recommended as good Family Hotels. Here the first company always resort, and the terms are accordingly high. The Gloucester and Hatchett's, in Piccadilly; and Limmer's, in Conduit-street, is the resort chiefly of sporting gentlemen or families : whilst of less expensive hotels Ave may mention as central houses, chiefly for bachelors, Richardson's, the Tavistock, the New and Old Humniurns, Bedford, and Piazza, in Covent Garden. Those who wish to be midway between the City and the West End would do well to put up at the Union, in Cockspur-street, Morley's, at Charing Cross, or Fenillade's Colonade Hotel, Charles- street, Haymarket.
Less expensive houses, are the Golden Cross, at Charing
xxxii §21. WHERE TO LOl [TheBtowg*
Cross: in the City, the London Tavern, Biskopsgate-strect, and the Albion Tavern, in Aldersgate-street, both very famous for large public or private dinners. The Bridge House Hotel, London Bridge ; Gerard's Hall Inn, Bread-street; the Bull and Mouth, and the Castle and Falcon, St. Martin-le-Grand, may be recommended ; besides which, in St. Paul's Church Yard and its district, are many good and respectable hotels.
The foreign visitors of distinction will find French and German spoken at Mivarf a and the Clarendon. To those, how- ever, who wish to be moderate in their expenses, we would mention the well-known and admirably conducted house of M. dc Keyser (the Royal Hotel), New Bridge-street, Black- friars ; here every guest must be introduced personally, or by letter. But the quarter more especially devoted to French and German visitors, is Leicester-square, Castle-street, the Haymarket, &c. The chief hotels in this quarter are the Sabloniere Hotel, and the Hotel de Provence, in Leicester- square, both conducted by Mr. Nind, in the Continental style. The French cuixinc is excellent, and there is a table dliote daily at 6. The Hotel de Versailles, Leicester-place, Leicester-square, and the Panton Hotel, Panton-street, Hay- market, are also houses well frequented.
The best restaurants are " Verrey's," Regent-street, at the corner of Hanover-street; Soyer's Universal Symposium, at Gore House, Kensington : and the Sabloniere Hotel ; where there are daily tables cV hole, and where dinners are served also in private apartments ; Bertolini's, St. Martin's-street, Leicester-square ; Mouflet's, at Knightsbridge ; or Giraud's, Castle-street, Leicester-square; all which establishments pro- vide French dinners at a moderate rate.
Boarding-houses for Foreigners are also numerous around Leicester-square.
The English visitor who wishes to make a lengthened stay in the Metropolis, will find it most economical to t ' These he may get at all prices, from the Buite furnished rooms in the West End, at 7. l'». or 15 guineas a week, to the bed-room and use of a breal | rlour, at 10
shillings a week. In the West End the best description <>f lodgings are to be found in tin1 Btreeta leading from Piccadilly —such as Sackvillc-street, Dover-sti
in London.] § 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP. XXxiii
Clai'ges-street, and Duke-street, and in streets leading out of Oxford-street and Kegent-street, St. James's-street, Jermyn- street, Bury-street, and King-street. The best class of apartments are those in private houses, let by persons of re- spectability, generally for the season only. In the windows of these houses you will probably not see " Apartments to Let." A list of such apartments is to be found, however, at the nearest house-agent, who gives cards to view, and states terms. An advertisement in the Times for such rooms, stating that "no lodging-house-keeper need apply," will often open to the stranger the doors of very respectable families, where he will get all the quiet and comfort of a home, so difficult to be found in the noisy, and often extortionate professed lodging-house. Furnished houses for families can always be obtained at the "West End.
Those who wish moderate lodgings in a central situation, should seek for apartments in some of the secondary streets leading from the Strand, such as Cecil-street, Craven-street, Norfolk-street, Southampton-street, Bedford-street, or the Adelphi. Here, in the season, the prices range from 1 to 4 guineas for a sitting and bedroom. Those again who care not for locality will find every quarter of the town abounding in boarding-houses and lodging-houses, varying in price according to the situation. The middle-class visitor who is bent on sight- seeing, should obtain a bed-room in a healthy locality and the use of a breakfast-room. There are thousands of such lodgings to be had for half-a-guinea a week. He can either provide his breakfast himself or get his landlady to do it for him. The various chop-houses and dining-rooms, of which there are nearly 600 in the Metropolis, will provide him with his dinner; whilst the 900 coffee-houses will afford him a cheap tea in any quarter of the town. He should not omit to pay one visit at least, however, to the Divan in the Strand, where for Is. he has the entree of a handsome room, a cup of coffee and a cigar, and the use of newspapers, periodicals, chess, &c.
§ 22. Many of the dining-houses of the City are famous for some particular dish : Thus, the Ship and Turtle, in Leaden- hall-street, for its turtle ; " Joe's," in Finch-lane, Cornhill, is famous for steaks, served on metal plates ; the "Cock," 201- Fleet-street, for steaks and chops and "snipe kidneys;" MWil-
Ti.c Stranger
liams's Old Bailey Beef Shop " is famous for its boiled beef; "Dolly's," in Queen's Head Passage, Patemoster-row, is also a quiet chop-house ; the One Tun Tavern, at Billingsgate Mar- ket, is the celebrated fish ordinary, the charge is Is. 6d., including butcher's meat and cheese. There is an ordinary at the " Salutation," in Newgate-street, every day at 5 o'clock, where you are provided with three courses for Is. 6d., bread, beer and cheese included ; you are expected, however, to take wine or spirits afterwards. In Bucklersbury, leading from Cheapside to the City, there are several clean, and excellent, dining-rooms, where you may dine well from Sd. upwards. These are termed "Dining-rooms," or "Eating-houses," and it may be observed as a general rule that it is customary to give the waiter Id. if your dinner is under Is., and so on in proportion, but never exceed 6(7. each person. The " Rain- bow," " Dick's," the " Mitre," and the " Cheshire Cheese," either in Fleet-street, or leading out of, are good dining-houses for chops, beefsteaks, or joints, and at moderate prices. The "Lord Mayor's Larder," just opposite Bow Church, in Cheap- side, is a very superior dining-house, the rooms are large and lofty, and fitted up in a handsome manner. The European Coffee-house, facing the Mansion-house, is an excellent house. The stranger should remember that some of the very best dining-houses are in the City, and that the joints there are in best cut between 1 and 5 o'clock.
Westward of Temple Bar, the best dining-houses are Simpson's, at the Cigar Divan in the Strand ; the great saloon is fitted up like the first-rate French Restaurants ; fresh joints are cooked every quarter of an hour, between the hours of 5 and half-past 7, and the dish is wheeled round to the diner, that the carver may cut to his liking ; charge, exclusive of stout or ale, 2s. Simpson's, at the "Albion," close to Drury-lane Theatre, is also excellent; the arrangements are the same as at the Cigar Divan ; it is also a great supper-house, lying, as it does, contiguous to tho operas and theatres ; the stout is excellent. Still further west, the " Blue Posts," in Cork-street, is a noted house, both for its cooking and its iced punch. John O'Groat's, in Rupert-street, and Pye's Dining Rooms, in Church -place. Piocadilly, are most clean and reasonable dining-houase.
in London.] § 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP.
The " Albany," in Piccadilly, is good and cheap, and where ladies may also dine with comfort. The " Scotch Stores," corner of New Bnrlington-street, Regent-street, and the '•' Scotch Stores," in Oxford-street, (the " Green Man and Still,") are good houses, the table-cloth clean, and your dinner, served on plate, costs you about 2s. 6d. Verrey's, in Regent- street, affords the Englishman a good idea of decent French cooking, the claret and other wines being tolerable and not dear. Soyer'.s Symposium no one will fail to visit once, and on one will care to visit twice.
The West End Tavern dining-hours are from 3 to 7 o'clock.
The West End supper-houses are, as we have said, Simp- son's, opposite Drury-lane ; the Cyder Cellars, Maiden-lane : the Coal-hole, in the Strand ; and Evans's, in Covent-garden. The Hotel de l'Europe, Heming's, and Dubourg's, close to the Haymarket Theatre, and the fish-shops which almost line this street, are much used as late supper houses. In the City, the Cock, the Rainbow, Dick's, and Dr. Johnson's tavern (all four in or off Fleet-street), are the chief houses resorted to after the theatre.
The stranger who wishes to see City feasting in all its gloiy, should procure an invitation to one of the banquets of some of the City Companies in their own halls. The Goldsmiths' dinners, given in their magnificent hall, behind the General Post Office, exhibit a grand display of gold plate. Some of the Companies, again, the Fishmongers, Merchant Tailors, &c, are famous for their cookery, and the antique character of their bills of fare — still maintaining the baron of beef, the boar's-head, the swan, the crane, the ruff, and many other delicacies of the days of Queen Elizabeth. After these dinners " the loving cup" goes round. In the Carpenters' Company, the new master and wardens are crowned with silver caps at their feast; at the Cloth workers, a grand procession enters after dinner. Similar customs prevail at other of the great Companies' banquets, and at all the dinners are first-rate.
The suburban dining-houses are the Star and Garter, and the Castle, at Richmond, where you may dine simply but well, for 4s. 6d. (wine excepted) ; Lovegrove's East India Dock Tavern atBlackwall (where ministerial white-bait dinners
XXXvi §U4 PANORAMAS, ETC. The Stranger
are given) ; the Crown and Sceptre, and Trafalgar, at Green- wich, and the Ship at Gravesend ; these are all famous for their white-bait.
§ 23. The amusements and objects of interest in London are so numerous, and so diverse in character, that some classifica- tion is absolutely necessary, to enable the visitor to make his choice what he would most like to witness. The theatres, which we presume to interest most classes, we shall place first, giving in the most succinct manner the character of per- formance to be seen at each. They are —
Her Majesty's Tiifatrf., TIaymarket.— Italian Opera and ballet. Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Commences at 8 o'clock (half-past 7 Saturdays).
Royal Italian Opera, Covent-garden. — Italian Opera. Tuesdays Thursdays, and Saturdays. Commences at 8 o'clock. — Admitted only in evening dress at either of these houses.
Drury-lane Theatre.— Spectacle and English opera.
Haymarkkt Theatre.— British Drama and Vaudeville and Faroe.
Lyceum, or English Opera House, Strand. — Extravaganza, Vaude- ville, and Farce.
Frincess's, Oxford-street.— British Drama and Farce.
St. James's Theatre, St. James' s-street. — French Flays.
Adelphi, Strand. — Melodrama and Farce.
Finch's Play House, or Strand Theatre, Strand.— Melodrama and Farce.
Olympic, Wych-strcet. — Melodrama and Farce.
Marylebone, Church-street. — British Drama.
Sadler's Wells, Islington. — British Drama.
Queen's, Tottenham Court Road. — Melodrama and Faroe.
City of London, Norton Folgate. — Melodrama and Faroe.
Surrey. Blackfriars-road. — Melodrama, English Opera, and Farce.
Victoria, Waterloo-road. -Melodrama and Faroe.
Astlkv's, Westminster Bridge. — Horsemanship and Melodrama.
1! \ i i v's HxPPOOBOMK. Kensington. — Horsemanship, Chariot-races, Tour- naments, &c. (Morning, at 2 ; afternoon, at 6).
§ 24. Panorama! and MisceUaneow Exhibition*.
Tiir. COLOSSHM, Regent's Park*— There are at the present time two pictures exhibiting here : the Panorama of London by day. and Paris by night; in addition to these arc the Conservatory and the Museum of Sculpture. Admission, S .
Cosmos am a, 209, Regent-street- Panoramas of remarkable places are
lure exhibited. Admission, Iff.
Bubvobd's Paxorama, Leieester-sqnare. — The Arctic Regions, the Lakes of Klllarney, and the Ruins of Pompeii are theptetun being exhibited. Open from lOtilldnsk. Admission, la
Wtld's <;rf.at (ii.imr, in i,eieester-si|uare.- Exhibiting the different
divisions of the world on its concave or Interior surface. The diameter of this monster model of the terrestrial world is 60 feet
Open from 0 in the morning. Admission, Is.; on Saturdays, i The architect of the »hell was li. R. Abraham.
iu London.] § 24. rANORAMAS, ETC.
XX.XV11
The Cyclorama, or Music Hall, Albany-street, Regent' s-park.— A representation of the Earthquake at Lisbon in 1755. Open in the Afternoon at 2 and half-past 3; in the evening at half-past 7 and 9 o'clock. Admission, 2s.
The Diorama, Regent's Park.— Pictures now exhibiting : Etna, in Sicily, under three effects, evening, sunrise, and an eruption ; the Castle of Stolzenfels on the Rhine, seen by sun-set, and during a storm. Open from 10 till 4. Admission, 2s.
Diorama, St. George's Hall, Hyde Park-comer. — Jerusalem, and the sacred scenes mentioned in the New Testament, are here exhibited. Open at 12, 3, and 8 o'clock. Admission, Is.
The Oriental Diorama, Willis's Rooms, King-street, St. James's.— Scenes illustrative of Life in India are here shewn. Open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at 2 and 8 o'clock p.m. Ad- mission, front seats, 2s. 6d.; back seats, Is.
Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. — A moving panorama is here exhibited of Colouel Fremont's overland route to Oregon, Texas, and California, across the Rocky Mountains. Admission, reserved seats, 3s. ; stalls, 2s. ; back seats, Is. Open in the mornings at quarter to 3 o'clock ; evenings, quarter to 8 o'clock. Also a diorama of the Holy Land, at 3 and 8. Admission, Is.
G allery of Illustration, 14, Regent-street. — The Route of the Over- land Mail to India. Open daily, morning 12 o'clock, afternoon 3 o'clock, evening 8 o'clock. Admission, reserved seats, 3s. ; stalls, 2s. 6d. ; back seats, Is.
Linwood Gallery, Leicester-square. — Mr. Brees's View of New Zealand. Admission, Is. At the same Gallery there is Carnborn's Panorama of Paris, St. Cloud, and Versailles. Admission, Is.
Panorama, 309, Regent-street. — Moving Pictures of the Bosphorus, the Dardanelles, and Constantinople are here exhibited. Open at 12, 3, and 8 o'clock. Admission, Is ; stalls, 2s. 6d. ; reserved seats, 3s.
The Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent-street, and 5, Cavendish- square, is a collection of all kinds of curious machinery in motion, and of models, &c. ; lectures on chemistry, and other scientific sub- jects are daily given. Open from 11 o'clock till 5 o'clock, and from 7 o'clock till 10 o'clock. Admission, Is.
Polyorama, 309, Regent-street, next door to Polytechnic.
The Incubator, or Egg-Haiching Machine, Leicester-square. — The whole process of hatching by artificial heat is here exhibited. Admission, Is.
The Chinese Collection, Albert Gate, Hyde Park. Admission, Is.
Ccmming's Exhibition of Trophies of the Chase, African Curiosi- ties, &c, collected by this remarkable hunter during five years sojourn in the Interior of South Africa. Admission, Is.
Catlin's Exhibition, Waterloo-place. A collection of Costumes, Por- traits, and Weapons, collected by him whilst living with the North American Indians. Admission, Is.
Madame Tussaud's Wax Works, Baker-street, Portman-square. The evening is the best time. Admission, Is. Chamber of Horrors, 6d. extra.
Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea. The gardens are illuminated at night, and dancing commences at dusk, the whole concluding at 11, with Fireworks. Admission, Is.
Vauxhall Gardens, near Vauxhall Bridge, similar amusements to the above, but continued to a much later hour. Admission, 2s. Ocl.
Surrey Zoological Gardens. FOtos and Flower Shows.
XXXviii § 26. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO PAINTERS. [The Stranger
§ 25. Petforma <oe.
Tiif. Two Operas. See xxxviii.
I'Hii.ii.uiMuM. held in the Princess's Concert Boon, Castle-
street, < (iford-street. BULLAE'S WEDNESDAY NlOHT COHCBBTS, held in St. .Martin's Hall,
Long- acre. Musk al Gxiob Cow BBT8,held In Willis's Rooms. An< if.m Cow
Pki:i <>i;max<. i> Of ObATOBIOS BY HABDBL, ELAYDff, MeniiELSuIIN, &C,
in Exeter Hull, from November to July. Pbitatb Cohobbts, giren by celebrated artists, during the season —
May, June, July. Li. la's Cos. BBT8 <t I nsi ]:. mi. mm. Mrsir— most scientific and ft THB Anniveksaiiy ok the Sons or the CLBBOY, in ^t. Paul's Cathedral. The Anm\ii:s\i:y Of TBI Ciiwuty Children of Lo.viM.ix, beneath
the Dome of St. Pauls, the First Thursday in .June. Madrigal, Choral, ami Glee Societies, always taking place in the fcfetro-
polis, of which uutice is given in the public pap
§ 26. ULjatii (,/' Inierett to the PainUr and Connoimewr.
% The CeUectiont thus marked an private, and plated m dwtUkn§4
and can only be seen by special permission of the owners.
National Gallkry, including the Vernon Collection at Marlborough-
house. /'/•■ - . g Qi ken's Collection at Buckingham Palace; to be seen only by an
order from the Lord Chamberlain of Her Majesty's Household (the
Marquis of Breadalbanc. The ottice of the Lord Chainberhiin is m
St. James's Palace. Collection of Eably Gbbmab Art at Kensington Pahu 1
of Prince Louis D'Ottingen Wallerstein. FoTpefniiseton to Inspect,
v. rite to L. O rimer, Esq., Fitzroy-sqnnre. Bbidobwateb Gallbbt, st. James's.
3 GboSYBKOB GALLBBT, off Park-lane.
fj Dike OF Sitiierlanh's liuBlLLOfl, and 1. of Van
Dyck. Dim ot Bbdfobd's in rcH Piottjbes, c>. Belgrare-square.
>/ The Correuoio (Christ In the Garden), and other pictures, at Apsley
House.
I Tin: Van DrOB Portraits ash BEBTCBBB 6n grisaille), tine Cana-
letti, \ie» of Whitehall), at Montague lb. use. g Loan Gabvaoh'b Raphael, tbi AldobbArdihi Kadobha, 86,
Portman-square.
£ Di-ki: 01 Gl LfTOf'S Drri.i. IA 1 I OB OBIOIKAL Of 1 in: la-i vr.K PlO-
tube, by Van Dyck, of Cbarli i I. standing by his I Tin Holbbih, at Barber-Burgeons' Hall. tdonkwell-street, City. This is the 1'nn'st Holbein In England. Ring the belli a-.k hi see the picture, and give a shilling to the person Bhowlng it.
Titian's COBNABO FAMILY, at Northumberland House; to be
an order from the Dnke of Northumberland only.
1 .! is.., iii Inigo Jones's Banqueting House (now the Chapel
I. ' I . ft.1 Whitehall. Ma;. after
divine service. Tin Old Matrons um Diploma it n lis. at the B •
Write to the Keeper of the Royal Aeadenvy, C Landfeer, Esq.,
I:. \.. stating who you are, and yo« u ill receive an answer.
in London.] § 26. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO PAINTERS, &C. xxxix
Tub Hogarths and Canaletti, at the Soane Museum in Lincoln's- Inn-tields.
The Hogarths, at the Foundling Hospital, Lincoln's Inn Hall, and St. Bartholomew' 8 Hospital.
The Three Sir Joshua Reynolds', at the Dilettanti Society, Thatched House Tavern, St. James's-street.
g The Van Dycks, at Earl de Grey's, in St. James's-square.
| Sir Robert Peel's Dutch Pictures, at Privy Gardens.
g Mr. Hope's Dutch Pictures, Piccadilly (corner of Down-street).
The Portraits in the British Museum.
g Lord Lansdowne's Collection, Lansdowne House.
Barry's Pictures at the Society of Arts, Adelphi.
The Pictures in the Painted Hall, Greenwich.
g Mr. Neeld's Collection, No. 6, Grosvenor-square.
g Mr. Rogers's Collection, No. 22, St. James's-place.
g Lord Ashburton's Collection, at Bath House, Piccadilly.
Lord Ward's Collection, in (temporarily) the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly .
g Marquis of Hertford's Collection, Piccadilly, corner of Engine-st.
g Lord Normanton's Collection.
§ Baron Rothschild's Murillo (Infant Saviour), at Gunnersbury. five miles from Apsley House, Hyde-Park-corner.
g R. S. Holford's CoLLECTiON,"(at present, 1851, at No. 65, Russell-sq.)
The 39 Richard "Wilsons and Fine Spanish Pictures of Richard Ford, Esq., 123, Park-street, Grosvenor-square.
g Collection of French Portraits, Raffaelle Ware, and Vene- tian Glass of Ralph Bernal, Esq., M.P., 93, Eaton-square.
g Pool of Bethesda, hy Murillo, at George Tomline's, Esq., No. 1, Carlton-House-terrace.
Private Collections of John Sheepshanks, Esq., of Rutland Gate, near the Crystal Palace; of 11. A. J. Munro, Esq., in Hamilton- place, Piccadilly; of Thomas Baring, Esq., M. P., 41, Upper Gros- venor-street ; of John Gibbons, Esq., No. 17, Hanover-terrace, Regent's Park; of — Bicknell, Esq., at Herne-hill, Surrey, five miles from Waterloo Bridge ; Mr. B. G. Windus's Turner Drawings, at Tottenham, five miles from St. Paul's ; shown every Tuesday to strangers bringing letters of introduction.
The Dulwich Gallery. Get an order from Colnaghi's.
Raphael's Cartoons, &c, at Hampton Court.
The Van Dyck Pictures, &c, at Windsor.
g The Duke of Devonshire's Gallery, Piccadilly.
Exhibitions of Modern Pictures.
Royal Academy of Arts, East Wing of the National Gallery, in Trafalgar-square. The Exhibition of the Academy, containing the greatest novelties of the best English Artists, is open to the public daily from the first Monday in May till near the end of July. Ad- mission, Is. ; Catalogue, Is. If you wish to see the pictures, go early, before 12 ; if you wish to see company, and not to see the pictures, go between 3 and 4. Persons desiring to become purchasers of pictures or other works of art, are requested to apply to the Clerk. The better works are generally all sold before the day of opening.
The Society of British Artists, exhibiting between 50o and 600 pictures annually, at Suffolk-street, Charing Cross. Admission, Is. open in April.
The British Institution, Pall Mall, containing in the spring months annually between 300 and 400 modem pictures. During the summer months there is an Exhibition of ancient masters, collected from
xl § § 27 & 28. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO THE [lie Stranger
the principal private coll. ctions in town and country. Admission, Is. Catalogue. Is.
The Society of Painters in "Water Colours, Pull-mall West. Ad- mission, Is., open in April. Catalogue, 6d.
The New Society of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-ma:' Admission, Is., open in April. Catalogue, 6d.
Exhibition of PlOTOBKS and Painters of all the - BUBOFE, In Lichfield House, St. Janies's-square.
National Institution of the Fine Arts, 316, Regent-street, opposite the Polytechnic. Admission, Is. Catalogue, 6d.
During the London season (April, May. ami Jane) the Connoisseur should make a point of occasionally dropping in at the Auction Rooms of Christie and Manson, in King-street, St. James's-square.
§ 27. Objects of Interest to the Sculptor.
The Nineveh, F.i.oin, Piulalian, Towni.ey, and other Marbles in the British Museum.
The 15as-uei.ii r, by Michael Angelo, at the Royal Academy. Write to the Keeper of the Royal Academy, C. Landsecr, Esq.. R.A., stating who you are.
The Sculpture in St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey.
Statue of Charles I., by Ee Saenr, at Charing-cross.
Statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, behind Whitehall.
g Statue of Napoleon, by Canova, at Apsley House. Stati es by the same artist at Buckingham Palace.
g Two Fine Statues, by Canova, at Gunnersbury (five miles from Hyde- Park -corner), seat of Baron Lionel de Rothschild, Ml'.
The several Statues in the Squares and public Places— Pitt, by Chantrey, in Hanover-square; Fox, by Westmactt. in Blooms- bury-square ; cannim;, by Westmacott, mar Westminster Rail; G-KOROB III- by YVyatt, in* Cockspnr-street j Q-BOBOI IV., by Chan- trey, in Trafalgar-square; the Duke 01 Wellington be. Royal Exchange, by Chantrey, and at Hyde-Park-eoiner. by Wyatt.
The Two Siaii is OF Mai>ness and Melancholy, by Cibber. at Bethlehem Hospital. Write to Sir Peter Laurie, the President of the Hospital, 7, Park-square, Regent's Park.
Flaxman's Models at liuveisity College, in Q-UWOT Street. Write to Henry ( 'r.ibb Robinson, Esq., Russell-square, or C. C. Atkinson. Esq.,
at University College. Tm Kounrnra a. mi.i.i..-. byT. Banks, R.A., In the hall of the British
Institution. Fine I'.AS-uri.iEK, by T. Banks, K.A., In the liall of the National (. illery. £ Tin. M a i : i ■- 1 .i:s at l.ansdowne House, in l'.ei keley-si[U.ire. the residence
of the tfarqnisof Lansdowne.
g The Quil Si. \\ I Cirl. by II it. mi Pol ST, temporarily nt the Crystal
Palace.) at the house of John (J rant, F.sq.. 7. II \d. -1'ai k- street. Tul Casi - "i i in. G a i ■ : . at the
Rooms of the (."vennuent Behool of Design, Somerset li
§ 28. Object* of Ink rest to the Architect and Engineer.
Gothic. gt Mary Orery.
The Norman Chapel, in the Tower. WestminsU r Abbey.
Tie Norman Crypt, under the Westminster HaU.
ehnreh of St Mary-le-Bow. Temple Chnreh.
St. Barthoh'inew-tlie-Grcat. Dutch Church, Austiu Friars.
in London.] SCULPTOR, ARCHITECT, AND ENGINEER
xli
Gothic (continued).
Ely Chapel.
The Crypt at Guildhall.
The Crypt at St. John's. Clerken- well.
Allhallows Barking.
St. Olave's, Hart-street.
Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate-street, built 1466-1472.
Savoy Chapel.
The Crypt at Gerard's Hall.
St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell.
Lambeth Palace — (Chapel and Hall.) Renaissance :
Holland House, Kensington. "Works, by Inigo Joxes:
Banqueting House, Whitehall.
St. Paul's, Covent-garden.
York "Water-gate.
Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate- street.
Lindsey House, Lincoln' s-Inn- fields (West side).
Ashburnham House, off the Cloisters, Westminster.
Lincoln's Inn Chapel.
St. Catherine Cree — (part only).
Piazza, Covent-garden. By Sir Christopher Wren :
St. Paul's Cathedral.
St. Stephen's, Walbrook.
St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapsidc.
St. Bride's, Fleet-street.
St Magnus, London Bridge.
St. James's, Piccadilly.
SpireofSt.Dunstan's-in-thc-East.
St. Mary Aldermary.
St. Michael's, Cornhill.
Towers of St.Vedast, St. Antholin, and St. Margaret Pattens. By G ibbs :
St. Martin's-in-the-Fields.
St. Mary-le-Strand. By N. IIawksmoor (a pupil of Wren's) :
Bt Mary Woolnoth, near the Mansion House.
Christ Church, Spitalfields
St. George's, Bloomsbury.
Limehouse Church. By Lord Burlington :
Colonnade, at Burlington House.
Duke of Devonshire's Villa at Chiswick. By Sir William Chambers :
Somerset House.
By Kent : Mr. C. Baring Wall's house, No. Berkeley-square. By Dance (Senior):
The Mansion House. By Dance (Junior):
Newgate. By Mylne :
Blackfriars Bridge. By John Rennie (Father^ of Sir John Rennie and of George Rennie) : Waterloo Bridge. By Sir John Soane :
Bank of England. By Nash : Regent-street.
Buckingham Palace (cast front excepted, which is by Blore). By Decimob Burton : Athenaeum Club, Pall-mall. Colosseum, in the Regent's Park. Screen at Hyde-Park-corner. By Philip Hardwick (and Son) : Goldsmiths' Hall, behind the'
General Post Office. Lincoln s Inn Hall. Eustou-square Railway Terminus
By Sir Robert Smirke: British Museum. Post Office. By Charles Barry, R.A.: New Houses of Parliament. Reform Club, Pall-mall. Travellers' Club, Pall-mall. Treasury, Whitehall. Bridgewater House, in the Green Park. By Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. : Carlton Club-house, Pall-Mall
(Granite column part). Conservative Club-house, St.
James's-street. Interior of Pantheon, Oxford- street. By G.G. Scott:
Camberwell New Church. By Benjamin Feruey : St. Stephen's Church, Rochester- row, Westminster.
By Thomas Cundy: Holy Trinity Church, upper end of Westbourne Terrace, Pad- din gton.
xlii § 29. OBJECTS OF [HTBRBBT TO AITTJQI stranger
§ 29. Objects of Interest to the Antiquary.
The British Museum.
Tin: Tower.
"Westminster Arbf.y.
The Chapter House. Westminster.
The Remains of London Wall, in St. Martin's-court, off Lud gate-hill.
London Stone, inserted in the outer wall of the church of St. Swithin in Cannon-street, and the top is seen through an oval opening. Camden considers it to have tx en the central MiV'mrium, or mile- stone, similar to that in the Forum at Rome, from which the British high roads radiated, and from which the distances on them wei-e reckoned.
The Collection at the City of London Library, at Guildhall.
The Roman Bath under the Coal Exchange, at Billingsgate.
The Museum or the Society of ANTIQUARIES, at Somerset House. Writs to J. Y. Akerman, Esq., 1 S.A., Secretary, for permission.
g The Collections of George Gwilt, F.S.A.. Union-street Borough; and of Mi:.C. Roach Smith, F.S.A., 25. Liverpool-street, City.
§ The Choice Collections of China, .Vc, belonging to Joseph Marryat, Esq., 6, Richmond-terrace, Whitehall, Author of " History of Pottery and Porcelain," and Ralph Bernal, Esq., M.P., 93, Eaton- square.
The Gothic Churches named in p. xlii.
St. John's Gate.
Stained-glass Window, in St. Margaret's, Westminster.
Monument of Camden, in Westminster Abbey.
Monument of Stow, in St. Andrew's Undershaft, by the East India lie use, in Leadenhall-street.
g The China (especially Faience of Henri II.) of Sir Anthony de Rothschild, Bart., 2, Grro$tBHOr-plaoe Houses, Hydc-Park-coraer.
g The Spanish Hobebco and Majolica of 1!h BABO Ford, Esq. (123, Park-street), Author of " A Handbook for Spain."
BWOBB and TnEQUOISH Ring of James IV. of Scotland, at Heralds' College.
Daggers taken from Blood when he attempted to steal the Crown in the reign of Charles II., at .Literary Fund Rooms, Great Russell-street. comer of Bloomsbury-square.
§ 30. Plaou and Sighti which a Stranger must see.
I in: Tower, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted, charge 6rf.
Westminster ABBEY, to be Been daily, Sundays excepted.
Si r m i '- (aii;: DEAL, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted.
British Mcsei m. free, open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.
ll Gallery, Free, open Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Tbui i
Hoi -i- ,,; i' m:i i amin r. Ticket- are Issued from the Lorfl
i Miheriaiu's office, Abingdon-street, for Wednesday sad Saturday, between the boors of n end i o'clock, for viewing (gratis] the Hi, H e of Lords on Wednesdays anil Saturdays, from n to 5 o'clock. Applicants are n ivifed to leave Unix uume aud address.
\n i 3TNJN8TEB Hall.
St. James's Park.
St. James's Palace.
in London.] § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEN. xliii
BUCKINGHAM Palace, to be seen by order from tbe Lord Cbamberlain of ber Majesty's household, when Her Majesty is out of town. The office of the Lord Chamberlain (the Marquis of Breadalbane) is in St. James's Pal&ee,
Lambeth Palace, to be seen by order from the Archbishop of Can- terbury.
Ar?u-Y House, to be seen by order from the Duke of Wellington.
Hvde Park, between £ past 5 and i past 6 p.m. in May and June.
Kensington Gardens, between h past 5 and \ past 6 in May and June. The band plays Tuesdays and Fridays.
Whitehai l Banoceting House. The spot where Charles I. was be- headed.
Thames between Chelsea and Greenwich.
Charing Cbosb and Charles I.'s Statue.
Waterloo Bridge.
Thames Tunnel, open daily, admission \d.
London Docks. Get a tasting order for the wine-vaults.
Smithfield; to see the market go, on a Monday early.
Covent-garden Market ; go on a Saturda j morning early.
London Stone.
St. John's Gate.
Temple Bar.
The Monument, to commemorate the Fire of London in 1666, open daily, Sundays excepted, admission 3d.
Old Priory Chubch of St. Bartholomew in Smithfield.
Temple Church, during Sunday morning service. A Bencher's order, or personal introduction, will admit you to the best seats. From Monday to Friday inclusive, the church is to be seen without a bencher's order.
Bow Church.
St. Stephen's, Walbrook.
Zoological Gardens, logout's Park.
Surrey Zoological Gardens.
Goldsmiths' Hall.
Soane Museum, open on Thursdays and Fridays during the months of April, May, and June, and on Tuesdays from the 1st Tuesday in February to the last iu August.
ItuYAL Exchange.
Bank <>i England.
The Mint.
Christ's Hospital, the children supping in public every Sunday evening from Quinquagesima Sunday to Easter Sunday inclusive.
liuBEUM of the Royal College of Surgeons.
Ton:- Newspaper Office, Printing-house-square, Blackfriars, to be seen by order signed by the Editor. The office of this world-famous Paper is placed iu one of the most labyrinthine recesses to be seen in London.
Barclay's Brewhouse, in Southwark, near London Bridge, is to be seen by order from the Messrs. Barclay.
Clowes' s Printing Office, Stamford-street, Blackfriars, to be seen by order from Messrs. Clowes & Son.
Lord's Cricket-Ground, near the Eyre Arms, St. John's Wood, when a match is being played.
Museum of Practical Geology, in Piccadilly.
United Service Museum, at Whitehall.
East India House, Museum, Leadenhall-street, open every Friday afternoon.
The Haymarket, between \ past 11 and 12 of an Opera and Haymarket Theatre night in the thickest of the London season, when the crush
xliv PLACES NEAR LOHDOK TO BE .SEEN. [Tbt
of carriages and cabs — the crowd of orderly and disorderly people — the brilliant appearance of the taverns and" sholl-tish shops form an extraordinary picture.
London Bridge, about 12 in mid-day, or at i past 4 and 5, p.m.
The Opening ok Parliament, generally in February, and its proroga- tion, generally In July.
The Tiirf.i: Hoancrji/ruRlX Fetes atChiswick, in May, June, audJuly [see Calendar of Occurrences].
Tin: Fetes at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park [/tee Calendar of Occurrences].
Tin. Thames, by moonlight, from Westminster Bridge.
Tin; Has li.i.r.MiNATioN down the "dip of Piccadilly," looking from Devonshire House.
The Great Hall of the Nortb-Wettern Terminus, Euston-square.
Tin: Post Office Arcade, St. Martins-le-Hrand, at G o'clock, Saturdays when the grand rush to post newspapers takes place. To see the sorting process immediately after, get an order from Colonel Maberly.
TnE Innf.u Temple Gardens.
Tin: Bank ok England Cellars, and Coining M.viiiim: for weighing coin and making bank-notes.
The Coal Exchange, Lower Thames-street.
The Long Boom in the Custom House.
Break-neck Stairs off the Old Bailey, affording a capital notion of the strength of London when euwalled.
§ 31. Remarkable Places near London which a Stranger
should sec.
Windsor Castle, by Great Western Railway from Paddington, or by South Western Railway from Waterloo Station. Ask lor return ticket, if returning the same day; or if from Saturday, you are privileged till Monday: always show your return ticket passing through the office. The state apartments in Windsor Castle are open gratuitously to the public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, by the Lord Chamberlains tickets, to be obtained in London (gratis) of Messrs. Paul and Dominic Colnaghi, Printsellcrs, No. 11, Pall-mall East; of .Mr. lioon, Printsi lbr, No. 20, Threadnecdlo-street ; of .Mr. Mitchell, Honk- seller, No. 33, Old Bond-Street; of Messrs. Aekerman and Co.. Printselbrs, NO. 96, Strand: and of Mr Wright, Bookseller, No. Co, Pall-iuall ; of whom also Guide-books may be obtained, for one penny each. The tiekets are available for one week from the day they arc issued. They are not transferable, and it is contrary to Her Mui'sty's
command that payment for, or in reference to, them be made to any
person whatever. The hours of admission to the state apartment! arc — from 1st April to Mist October, between 11 and I ; and from 1st November to :il>t March, between 11 and 8. The Inns at Windsor are the Whit.' Hart and the Crown (neither very good).
i . ro» Coi i. kgb.
Hampton COUBT, by South Western Railway from Waterloo Station. The state apartments are open gratuitously U the public en dav of thfl week, 6X0001 Friday, w Inn they are clOOOQ for the purpose Of being (leaned. The hours are from 10 o'clock in the morning
until S o'clock In the evening, from the 1st of April to tbi
October, and thfl n m. under oi the year from lo until I. The Vine, in the Private Harden, and the Maze, in the Wilderness, are open every day until sunset: fur these a :,mall fee is rc'iuired by the
in London.] PLACES NEAH London to BE BEEN. xlv
gardeners who show them. Inns — The King's Arms, the New Toy, and the Mitre. Mr. Grundy's Guide, sold in the rooms (price 3d.), contains a complete catalogue of the pictures. Greenwich Hospital, by Greenwich Railway from London Bridge Station, or it is accessible by steamboat from Hungerford Market Stairs, or London Bridge. (See Tainted Hall.) "Woolwich Arsenal, by North Kent Railway from London Bridge, or by Railway to Blackwall Pier, and thence by Steamer. Here are placed the stores belonging to the Government Board of Ordnance. Open every day. except Sundays. The Dock-yard, 10 till 4. Arsenal and Royal Military Repository, 9 till half-past 11 ; 1 till 4. Admission. — To the Dock-yard, free. Arsenal and Royal Military Repository, by tickets given by the Master-General of the Ordnance, certain Officers of the Artillery, or the personal escort of any of the officers. Strangers are admitted to walk about the grounds of the Arsenal, but not to enter the buildings. Principal Objects. — In the Dock-yard: the Blacksmiths' Shop, various Docks, and all the activity of machinery incidental to ship-building. In the Arsenal : the Foundry for casting, boring cannon ; Laboratory, in which the several sorts of ammunition are prepared ; also models connected with the subject ; machinery of all kinds for preparing articles for the use of the Artillery service. In the Royal Military Repository: Modelsof Batteries, Artillery, Vessels, Barracks, various Forts, Towns. Rock of Gibraltar. The very best way of seeing Woolwich and its curiosities is to obtain the escort of an Artillery Officer. The Government Ordnance Stores in all parte of the world are valued at six millions, and of this sum, goods to the value of more than a million and a half are deposited at Woolwich. Foreigners wishing to see Woolwich or other Royal Dockyards and Arsenals must apply to the ambassador or minister from their country residing in England.
DiLwirn Gallery, open every day of the week except Fridays and Sundays. Without a ticket no person can be admitted, and no tickets are given in Dulwich. Tickets are to be obtained gratis of Henry Graves and Co., 6, Pall-mall; Alderman Moon, Threadneedle- streot'; Messrs. Colnaghi and Co., Pali-mall East ; Mr. Lloyd, 23, Harley-street; II. Leggatt and Co., Comhill; and Mr. Markby, Croydon, Surrey. Schools, and children under the age of fourteen, are not admitted. Hours of admission, from April to November, 10 to 5 ; from November to April, 11 to 3.
2 Holland House, Kensington, can only be seen by order from Lord Holland. The exterior, however, will repay a visit, and may be seen from the Kensington-road. Take a Kensington omnibus from the Industrial Exhibition (distance one mile and a halfl, and ask to be set down at Holland House; walk up pathway to the house — a pleasant walk.
Hampstead and Hic.iicate— pleasant places in themselves, and affording excellent views of London.
The Royal Botanic Gardens of Kew are open gratuitously to the public every day (Sundays excepted) from 1 to 6 o'clock. The Bopal Pleasure* Grounds, (sometimes by strangers confounded with the Botanic Gardens.) constitute a separate though adjoining portion of ornamental ground, open gratuitously to the public from Mid- summer-day to Michaelmas, every Thursday and Sunday, by three gates : two in the road leading from Kew to Richmond, calied the Lion Gate and the Pagoda Gate, and one by the river side, nearly opposite Brentford Ferry, and called the Brentford Gate.
Tiiii View from the Terrace and THE Park at Richmond.
Th :: View FBOM GeeehwICH Observatory.
xlvi AMBASSADORS AND CONSULS. [The Stranger
The Vif.v.- i-kom Harrow Churchyard.
St. Alban's Abbey, 31 mile* north of London (by the Great Northern Railway, 5 miles from the Hatfield Station ,
§ 32. Residences of Foreign Ambassadors and Consul*,
WHERE PASSPORTS MAY BE OBTAINED.
America (United States).— Ambassador's residence, 138, Piccadilly ;
Consul's office, 1, Bishopsgate Churchyard. Austria. — Ambassador's residence, 7, Chandos-street, Cavendish-square. Baden. — Consul's office, 6, Great Winchester-street ; 1, Riches-court,
Lime-street. Bavaria. — Ambassador's residence, 3, Hill-street, Berkeley-square;
Consul's office, 11, Bury's-court, St. Mary-axe ; 884, Great St. Helen's. Belgium — Ambassador's residence, 50, Portland-place; Passport office,
9a, Weymouth-stree't, Portland-place, 11 till 3. Brazil. — Ambassador's residence, 41, York-street, Portman-sq.; 62,
Baker-street; Consul's office, 3, Ilowford-buildings, Fenchurch-st. Denmark. — Ambassador's residence, 2, Wilton-terrace; Consul's office,
6, Warnford-court, Throgmorton-street. Frankfort.— Consul's office, 12, Broad-street-buildings. FRANCE. — Ambassador's residence, 10, Belgrave-square, Pimlico ; Pass- port-office, 47, King William-street (corner of Arthur-street, East .
London Bridge, 1 till 3; Consul's office, 3, CopthaU-buildings,
Copthall-court, 12 to 4. Hanover.— Ambassador's residence, 44, G rosvenor-place ; Consul's
office, 6, Circus, Minories. Netherlands. — Office, 47, Bryanstone-sqnare ; Consul's office, 123,
Fenchurch-street. Peru. — Ambassador's residence, 15, Portland-place, 11 till 3; Consul's
office, 10, Old Jewry Chambers. Prussia. — Ambassador's residence, 9, Carlton-terrace; Consul's office,
106, Fenchurch-street. Russia.— Ambassador's residence, 30, Dover-street, Piccadilly ; Consul's
office, 2, Winchester-buildings, City. Sardinia. — C li a rge d' Affaires, 11, Grosvenor-street : 5, Berkeley-square. Portugal. — Ambassador's residence, 57, Upper Seymour-street ; Consul's
office, 15, St. Mary Axe ; 5, Jeffrey's-square, St. Mary Axe. Saxony. — Ambassador's residence, 2, Wilton-street; Consul. 12, St.
James's-place; office, 76, Cornhill. Sicily. — Ambassador's residence, 15, Princes-street, Cavendish-square :
Consul's office, 15, Cambridge-street, Hyde Park-square. Spain. — Ambassador's residence, 38, Harley-street; Consul's office, 37,
Broad-street-chambers, Old Broad-street. Swehkx and Norway. — Ambassador's, residence, 66, Mount-street,
Berkeley-square; 14, llnlkin-street-West ; Consul's office, '-'7. Great
St. Helen's, Bishopsgato-stroet ; 2, Crosby-square, Bishopsgate-flt. Turkey. — Ambassador's residence, I. Bryanstone-square. Tuscany. — Consul's office, i">. Angel-court, Throgmorton-street, Wurtemburo. — Office, 40, Portman-square; lOGj Fenchurch-street,
in London.] xlvii
THE CRYSTAL PALACE, OR GREAT EXHIBITION.
We owe to France the idea of a national exhibition of Art- manufactures. In the year 1798, the first Industrial Congress of this nature was held in Paris, and repeated from time to time ; the Exhibition, however, of the year 1 844, from its eminent success, and from its occurring at a time when the industrial tendency of nations was becoming a noticeable fact, may safely be considered as the chief stimulus to the Council of the Society of Arts in determining to try the effect of a similar exhibition upon our own manufactures. The Society of Arts, in the year 1846, consisted of a small body of scientific gentlemen and noblemen, whose rooms in the Adelphi were filled with a collection of very old and very dusty models, certainly not calculated to inspire the visitor with any great idea of vigour and vitality. Impelled, however, by continental example, the Council, in the year 1847, determined upon establishing a limited exhibition in their own rooms, — the old models vanished, fresh samples of manufactures were introduced, and the novel experiment was at once successful. An increasing success attended the exhibitions of the two succeeding years, and under the guidance and presidency of Prince Albert it was determined to hold an Exhibition of all Nations in the year 1851. The Royal Commission, which was now formed to carry out the proposed object, determined that the scheme should be perfectly independent of all government support ; subscrip- tions were opened accordingly throughout the country, the design for the great building thrown open to the com- petition of all nations, and by the summer of 1850 no less than 245 plans were sent in. Of these, however, only 3 native and 15 foreign were thought worthy of consideration, aud even these the Commissioners set aside for a plan of their own, which was to have been built of brick, and to have comprehended a gigantic dome. Such an eruption of bricks and mortar in Hyde Park, and for a temporary purpose, was not at all popular, however; and at this critical juncture Mr. Paxton came forward with his happy idea of a House of Glass. A building so eminently simple in outline, and s<>
xlviii tiii: CRYSTAL PALACB. [TW»!
novel in construct Urn, was immediately received with accla- mation by the public, and the committee, with very good taste, adopted it in place of their own design. A space of ground was fixed upon between the Kensington road and llotten-row, in Hyde Park, as the site of the future building and its erection was contracted for by Messrs. Fox and Hen- derson, the eminent iron-founders and engineers of Birming- ham, for a sum of 79,000/. if the materials were returned, or of 150,000/. if the building were retained. Just at tin- juncture a double instance occurred of the reliance of those principally interested in the scheme, in its ultimate success. The liabilities already incurred by the Royal Commissioners were upwards of a hundred thousand pounds more than had been subscribed ; to ensure the payment of this sum, Prince Albert, and a few noblemen and capitalists, without any hesitation supplied their guarantee, trusting implicitly in the public approval of the scheme. In the same noble spirit of reliance was the conduct of the contractors, Messrs. Fox and Henderson. At the time their estimate was approved of by the Royal Commissioners, that body, according to the opinion of the Solicitor to the Treasury, had no power to enter into any contract ; never- theless, the firm put the necessary works in hand, and incurred an expense of no less a sum than 50,0002. before the Commissioners, on the acquisition of a Royal Charter, were empowered to give their order. A work begun with so much mutual trust on the part of its projectors and con- tractors could not fail of being carried to a happy oonclusion. The ground for the New Palace was broken on the 80th of July, 1850, and from that time to the opening on the 1st of May, 1851, the works were carried on with incredible rapidity. The rough sketch of the Palace upon a ah< blotting-paper (now in the Fine Arts Callery of the Exhibition), exhibit! Mr. Paxton'a Brat conception of the future building, and Mr. Fox himself baa grren ■ vivid
description of his walking at night down Portland place and padng off the length of the intended palace along the pave- ment, covering in his mind's eye the whole length of that splendid etreet, and i apace thrioa its width, with ■ roofc
and feeling amid the crowd that paiMOCl him nnheedinu'ly. t hat
hi LoaJci .. THE CRYSTAL PALACE. xlix
this was no common undertaking, but one, however, tlr.it must and should he done.
The first column was raised on the 26th of September, The castings were made at the Smethwick Iron-works, near Birmingham, and were often on the ground and in progress of being placed, in eighteen hours after they were out of the hands of the foundrymen, and as much framing as would have made a shed the length of the Birmingham railway station was on many occasions fixed in a single day. A simple pair of shears and the Derick crane was all the machinery used in hoisting the materials, and the building arose from story to story without a single scaffold pole. The principle which obtained throughout the structure, of making every measurement a multiple of 8, greatly facilitated the progress. Thus the columns are all 24 feet high, and 24 feet apart, and the centre aisle is 72 feet, or 9 times 8. The infinite repetition of a simple form is also a peculiar feature in the palace ; one single area bounded by four columns, and their crowning girders might be taken as the type of the whole building ; thus the busy hive of men, like so many bees adding hexagon after hexagon, constructed the building by the simple aggregation of so many cubes ; the courts and passages being obtained by the omission where required, of the cell walls. The building, it should be added, consists of a framework of wrought and cast iron, firmly braced together, and based upon a foundation of concrete.
The exact length of the building seems to have been de- termined by the date of the year in which it was completed, as it is 1851 feet in length, having a width of 408 feet.
The semi-circular roof of the transept is the design of Mr. 0. Barry. In Mr. Paxton's plan the roof was flat. The change was occasioned by the preservation of the fine old elms so strongly called for by the public, and in themselves most graceful additions to the building ; so beautiful indeed is this crystal vaulting, that we only regret the nave has not a similar translucent arch. The lifting of the semicircular ribs of the ti-ansept was the most hazardous portion of the whole building ; measuring 70 feet in span, and having to be lifted |q u height of 108 feet. Some dire mishapa were on all
1 THE CRYSTAL PALACK. [The Stranger
hands prognosticated; nevertheless, the whole 16 ribs were hoisted without accident of any kind, and in 8 working days.
While the skeleton of the building was yet in progr framing and glazing were commenced and carried forward. To make the wooden sash-bars and gutters, of which there are no less than 200 miles length, and to cover 18 acres of ground with a film of glass extending to nearly a million superficial feet, was a task so gigantic as to demand the aid of machinery to multiply the productive power of even the industrial army employed. Accordingly, the visitors who watched the progress of the building were astonished to see machinery take the place of the carpenter, to see the planing, grooving, drilling, sawing, and cutting into length of the woodwork performed by machines impro- vised for this special occasion. The glazing, in like manner, was conducted on an entirely original plan. Platforms of 8 feet square, (each capable of containing two men, with a canvas tilt over head to keep them dry,) were mounted on wheels which travelled in the Paxton gutters of the roof. A square hole was left in the centre of each, through which the glass was hoisted from below. The materials thus received were spun out from behind, and as the cloud of machines advanced slowly along the roof, their trail was marked by films of gleaming glass. Eighty men in one week glazed 62,600 superficial feet, and one man in one day put in no less than 108 panes, measuring 367 feet 6 inches in length. The glass is sheet glass, and the size of each pane is 4 feet 1 inch by 10 inches, the largest, we believe, ever blown.
The glazing completed, the work of internal decoration commenced under the superintendence of Mr. Owen Jones, by applying the primitive colours, red, blue, and yellow, upon narrow surfaces. The eminently artistic method adopted by Mr. Jones met with much opposition. Hia triumph, however, was, in the end, complete, and nothing in the whole building charms more than the converging opal of the interminable nave. The process of ornamental painting was oanied an with perhaps a greater speed than any other portion ef ihe building. An army of 500 painters, suspended In the air from the iron tan imultaneoualy from end to
end with incredible swiftness.
n London.] THE CRYSTAL PALACE. li
The rain-fall on the roof is conducted into sewers through the cast-iron columns, which are hollow ; thus, in raiuy weather, an enormous body of water falls harmlessly from roof to floor, through every portion of a building stored with the most costly pro ducts of the earth.
To prevent the glare of light from becoming oppressive, and to cool the atmosphere at the same time, the whole roof is covei'ed with calico. The ventilation is provided for by means of Louvre boards running round the whole base of the ground-floor and galleries and repeated under each ceiling. The simple form of the palace, consisting of three stories, imposed one upon the other, and narrowing from the base so as to form steps, is familiar to every one. The treble range formed by the nave and side-aisles is crossed in the centre by the transept, which, gleaming in the sun, forms through the surrounding trees the most prominent object from distant points of view.
To complete this extraordinary building by the day ap- pointed for its opening, the most gigantic efforts were made, and during the months of December and January upwards of 2000 workmen were daily employed. By this press of labour the national faith was kept, and on the 1st of May, 1851, Her Majesty, accompanied by Prince Albert and two of her children, ascended the platform erected in the middle of the transept, and proclaimed the opening of the Great Exhibi- tion. The scene — and it was a striking one — will be long remembered.
Contents of the Crystal Palace.
In proceeding with our visitor through the courts and avenues of the Crystal Palace, it is not our intention to weary him with minute descriptions, or to supply the place of the Exhibition Catalogue. It is our wish to point out articles which, for their rareness, beauty, or originality, he must not overlook, and to indicate, as far as possible, the most systematic way of seeing most with the least expenditure of time.
For this purpose it is best to enter by the Eastern Entrance, and to proceed along the nave westward the
d 2
Hi THE CRYSTAL PALACE. IThe Stranger
whole length of the building. By this means a general idea of its immense extent will be obtained ; and the most valuable works of art arranged in a line along the centre of the promenade, and the richest manufactures, placed at the entrances to the side-courts devoted to the different nations, will be seen at one view.
The whole of the ground floor and the major portion of the galleries from the east end of the building to the transepts are devoted, it should be borne in mind, to foreign works of art and manufactures ; whilst from the transepts west- ward, Britain and her Colonies occupy the entire space. Entering, then, at the Eastern end of the building, we find ourselves in the American portion of the nave, the only objects worthy of notice in which are the statues of the Dying Indian Warrior, the Greek Slave, and the Boy with a Shell, the last two by Hiram Powers. An enormous block of zinc opposite the Russian department next attracts notice, the weight of which is 10,400 lbs. In the Zollverein portion the gigantic Bavarian Lion, one of four to be placed on the top of an arch leading into Munich, is interesting both from the nobleness of its model and the clearness and beauty of its casting, no file or tool having touched it since it came from the mould. The Amazon and Tiger, by Kiss, of Berlin, the finest modern group of statuary which Europe lias produced, should be examined thoroughly. Not far from this is a very characteristic statue of Marshal Radetsky. The beau- tiful stained glass Dante window, executed at Milan, must not be forgotten ; nor the noble, though somewhat heavy, heroic equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, by Simonis, a Belgian artist. Two little statues, the Happy and Unhappy Child, close at hand, also attract much attention. Opposite the Roman department are two very elegant statues by the late Richard Wyatt, of Rome. A long howitzer and a gigantic earthen wine-jar mark Spain's contributions to the nave. The next article of striking interest is the exquisitely wrought shield presented to the Prince of Wales by the King of Prussia. The great Koh-i-Noor, or "Mountain of Light" diamond, captured at Lahore, and valued at 2,000.000?., is conspicuous in its gi hied cage. Several attempts r brilliancy to the jewel have been made, by
in London.] THE CRYSTAL PALACE. liii
lighting it with gas, but they have all failed. The manner in which it is cut, is said to be the cause of its dulness — a defect which Runjeet Singh made the lapidary pay for with his head. On a spring being touched, the platform on which it is mounted sinks down into an iron safe imbedded in masonry. The key of this safe is every night given into the custody of a Crown officer.
The double Transept, with its arched roof, 108 feet high, here cuts the nave. The Crystal Fountain, by Osier, of Birmingham, 28 feet in height, and composed of the finest cut flint-glass, stands in the centre, and divides it into two equal parts. The vast Elm trees, tropical plants, and bloom- ing flowers, arranged at the north and south ends of the transept, and interspersed Avith various statues in plaster and marble, give this portion of the biiikling an aspect of enchanting beauty.
The British portion of the nave is not nearly so varied in its contents as the Foreign portion, art giving place to manufactures, and works of a scientific nature. The Trophy of Spitalfields Silks rears its mass of somewhat gaudy colours at the entrance. A huge pile of Canadian and Van Diemen's Land timber succeeds : and then " the largest Looking-Glass in the World," cannot fail to strike the eye. Then follow church ornaments, and a very beautiful design for Hereford Cathedral. Models of all kinds are very rife at this point, and, towering over everything else, are the gigantic, seated, portrait statues of the Lords Eldon and Stowell, executed by the late M. L. Watson, at a cost of 10,000£. The ornamental Rustic Dome is a fine specimen of casting, exhibited by the Colebrook-Dale Company. Here an improved Light-bouse; Ross's gigantic Telescope ; and a model of the Britannia Tubular Bridge, showing the method of raising the tubes, are conspicuoxis objects. The most beautiful models, however, are those of the Docks and Town of Liverpool, and of the Suspension-Bridge, erected by the English engineer, Vignoles, at Kieff, in Russia; the former is really a gigantic work. Close at hand is a beautiful Jewel Case, designed by Griiner, manufactured by Elkington, of Birmingham, and exhibited by Her Majesty. Portraits of the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Royal Children, executed
liv THE CRYSTAL PAIiA.CS. [The Stranger
in enamel, are placed around it. At the extreme western end of the nave is a specimen of Plate Glass, the largest ever manufactured. Fountains in the nave and transept are constantly playing and cooling the atmosphere.
Having viewed the nave throughout, it has been found best, to visit the various foreign courts and galleries, going along the north side from east to west as far as the transept, and returning by the south side of the building from west to east. The American department, with the exception of a singular reaping machine, shows nothing of particular interest on this side of the building. The Russian court, which succeeds it, contains some rare works in Malachite, especially two folding-doors composed of many thousand pieces, and valued at 9000/. The ebony casket, with groups of fruit composed of precious stones is well worthy of attention. The diamonds and other jewels under a glass case are the finest specimens of jeweller's work in the Exhibition. In the court of North Germany notice the porcelain manufactures from the Royal manufactory of Berlin, and the curious assortment of articles manufactured in buckhorn. The room filled up by the Zollverein is full of works of art of the highest character, especially those from Munich, in which artistic design is pre-eminent ; the chess-board and men are exquisite. The collection of stuffed animals, illustrative of the story uf Reynard the Fox, &c, &c, are exceedingly clever and humorous. Notice the model of the castle in which Prince Albert was born ; it is on this side of the Austrian department. The four rooms fitted up with carved furniture from Vienna, arc great centres of attraction. The carved bookcase and bedstead arc presents to her Majesty. Holland has two fine glass candelabra and a japanned screen ; and Mr. A. J. B. Hope exhibits his valuable collection of jewels at the entrance of this court. Belgium shows some machinery and CSJpetl ; also a finely executed field-piece, mounted. There are a few machines in the French department on this side well worthy of notice, among others, a shirt-making machine, and an engine called a "turbine/1 employed t«> drive QOtton-epuv ning machinery. Tho great attractions, however, are the specimens of Sevres china, ami Gtobelias tapestry, grouped in
in London.] THE CRYSTAL PALACE. lv
a court by themselves. Some of these pieces of tapestry are valued at thousands of pounds of English money. Observe. — The admirable carved sideboard (with dead game) and the Bronze Gate of the Baptistery at Florence, near the entrance to the Gobelins court. The Italian court, which succeeds, contains some carved furniture of the most exquisite description — the most beautiful, by far, in the Exhibition. The silks and velvets of Genoa are also well worthy of attention. Mark the cameos, mosaics, portraits, and landscapes, and inlaid marble tables also — these are principally from Rome. Spain has a most extraordinary table, composed of 3,000,000 pieces of inlaid wood. The pattern and colour of this exquisite piece of cabinet-work arc most beautiful. The model of the bull-fight is worth looking at. Notice also the Toledo swords, so finely tem- pered that they sheathe into cases twisted in circles like French horns. The Damascened blades are also very fine. A slab from the Alhambra is shown here. Portugal, on this side, exhibits some fine ivory carving. The collections from Turkey and Greece complete the foreign courts on the N. side; they are rich in embroideries and inlaid vestments.
Crossing the nave, cut just hei'e by the transept, we come into the Celestial Land. The Chinese court is the first on the southern side, moving from "W. to E. Here are to be seen the various materials used in the Imperial Porcelain works ; edible birds' nests ; every description of tea in its unadulterated state, and a fine collection of silks and satins, both plain and embroidered. Some racing-cups made at Hong Kong by native silversmiths are also curious. The carved ivory tree, with ball containing 24 others within it, all cut from one piece is a great curiosity. The Tunis court, close at hand, affords a striking assortment of Arab, manufactures. The rude tin wares, and the collection of morocco slippers are worthy of attention. Notice also the exquisite embroidered fabrics, the rich and tasteful combina- tions of colour in the stuffs, the carpets, and the gorgeous saddles and saddle-cloths. The stirrups used by the Bedouin Arabs, from their curious size and form, are real curiosities. Switzerland, which has a large space devoted to it on the S. side, has some elaborate pieces of embroidery, and here
lvi THE CRYSTAL PALAOB. TheStnasa
will be found some of its characteristic carving. The cscrutoir, in while wood, standing beside the imvc, ii an exquisite piece of furniture. France, the richest foreign contributor to the Exhibition — has her grand show on this the S. Bide of the nave. Her court devoted to gold and silversmiths' work is one of the great attractions of the Exhibition. The toilet table presented by the Legitimists to the Duchess of Parma must not be overlooked, nor the chalice made for the Pope, which Cellini could scarcely have surpassed. The specimens of oxidised silver work show the refined taste of Fiance ; bracelets, sword-handles, &c., of the most exquisite design crowd the centre tables. Notice a tazza of oxidised silver, the support formed by grass stalks surrounded by birds and small insects ; also a salver with fine reliefs. Among the silver work is an imitation of a napkin, so like figured damask that you can scarce believe it is not one. The Mechanical Humming Birds that move and Bing are -real curiosities. The Queen of Spain's jewels, in a glass case abut- ting upon the nave, must be seen; and the stall of artificial gems is worth studying. The case of artificial flowers, made of cambric, cannot fail to arrest your attention as you pass from the nave into the French court. Belgium comes next, with some beautiful carpets from the Royal factory. Exquisite embroidered work is hereto be found, as well as specimens of metal work. Observe examples of recently invented guns, discharged by a needle pushing a hole in the cartridge. The Austrian court on this side is principally devoted to raw materials, toys, &c., but the statuary room, exhibiting works in marble, by Viennese and Milan artists, must be visited. Monti's Eve is a fine work of Art, and his two veiled si in which the features seem visible through the marble, attract groat notice. Do not pass by the fine though pain- ful recumbent statue of [shmae] in the Wilderness. The remaining courts of Germany, Denmark, Sweden, and Etuaaiaj are principally devoted to raw materials, the products of those countries. The United States, which forms the last foreign ground-floor department we have to traverse, contains some
ingenious < 'hairs, which adapt themaelvi \ to any position of the body. The phi itographic portrait -. for which America is justly
celebrated, are also worthy of notice. Among these will be
inLon.lm THE CRYSTAL PALACE. lvii
found likenesses of most of the leading men of the United States. A piano, which also plays a violin, is a very singular contrivance in this department. Among the articles of food is to he found some "Meat Biscuits;" and the inventor of a patent safe offers two hundred pounds to the person who can pick the lock, which is pronounced to he a very ingenious one. The enormous length of Ivory Veneer is very remarkable. We have now to traverse the galleries, the space of which is, for the most part, apportioned to the different countries immediately below. Beginning as we did before from the E. and working westward, we first enter the United States portion, which is, however, nearly unfurnished. A window, composed of slabs of coloured soap, is curious. Over the Eussian department, will be found, a case of most valuable furs containing, among other articles, a fur cloak belonging to the Emperor, valued at SQOOl. sterling. Notice here the silk shawl, worked on both sides, valued at two thousand guineas ; and the white Cashmere Goat's "Wool Scarfs. An exquisitely carved side-board, of Saxon manufacture, should be noticed, also, a grotesque chandeliei', representing an orchestra, led by Jullien ; and a curious machine to enable the Blind to write. The perfection to which Austria has attained in the manufacture of all classes of wind instruments is shown in this gallery. A case con- taining the wax effigies of cardinals and bishops in full canonicals attracts much attention, especially as one of them is supposed, by the masses, to represent Cardinal Wiseman. The ladies linger much about the Belgian portion of the gallery, as here, inclosed in glass cases, will be found the most exquisite specimens of Brussels' lace. The thread of which these pieces of work are composed is so fine, that, it cannot be untied, it is said, in any current of air, as its continuity would be destroyed. The chief attraction is a lace dress, said to be of immense value. The exquisite silver filagree work from Genoa succeeds ; here, also, in glass cases, will be found the velvets of this ancient city. The dies of the gold ornaments worn by the peasant women of Piedmont are very curious. A splendid polished steel bedstead, ornamented with ormolu, is the most notable feature at the W. end of this gallery ; the more so, as it was
lviii TI1K CRYSTAL PALAl I. The Stronger
manufactured at Madrid. The windows which form the walls of the N. gallery are filled with specimens of stained glass, both British and foreign.
If we cross over to the south gallery, Switzerland, among various specimens of its great staple manufacture, shows a Watch, the size of a groat, and a Pistol so small that a microscope is required to show its delicate workmanship. The ladies will be deligbted with the specimens of flowers, and ornaments of all kinds, manufactured from wheat straw. Among the watches here exhibited, one goes a twelvemonth without being wound up. There are some chronometers not more than an inch in diameter. Fine textile fabrics of France are to be found in the immediate vicinity, especially example! of flowers wrought in cambric and needlework, as ornaments for dresses, surpassing in beauty of design and execution anything of the kind in the exhibition. The printed cottons and muslins at this point show how much our neighbours surpass us in variety of design and brilliancy of colour. The finest shawls are exhibited here. In glass cases ranged along the innermost, or most central of the galleries, i be found the beautiful silks and satins of Lyons, in the arrangement of which (and indeed of every thing which is French), infinite taste is displayed. Austrian textile fabrics fol- low. Towards the east end of the gallery, the French surgical instrument-makers exhibit some extraordinary specimens of their craft. The east end of the gallery is but ill furnished, but the artist will see hei'e specimens of the great work on painting, which the French government has been conducting for the last quarter of a century, and which is nol completed.
Before we pass to the British portion of the Exhibition, a stroll through the transept, which forms a beautiful promenade 408 feet in Length, will afford infinite pleasure to the visitors. On the one hand glitter the rich products of China, i lid Tunis ; on the other, the still more gor-
geous colours and embroideries of our own [ndian ■ Thus, on either ride, Ik- the richness and profusion of the east, and the tropica] aspect of the scene is further an) by the glitt. untain, which stands out against
the rich verdure of the great palm trees, showering its di-ops
in Loudon] THE CRYSTAL l'ALACK. lix
and realising a picture in the Arabian Nights. In the south gallery of the transept, the gigantic Electric Clock, which points the time with a minute and hour hand in one line upon the semi-circular eave of the building, is notable. Below, as you enter the doors, the Ornamental Iron Gates, exhibited by Messrs. Cottam and Hallen, are placed. The plaster statues on either hand are from the ateliers of native artists, and add to the general beauty of the scene. At the northern side of the transept we find the Stuffed Birds, by Hancock of Newcastle, which illustrate the sport of Hawking, and are wonderfully faithful to nature ; Ornamental Cast- iron Gates, elaborately gilded, are exhibited by the Colebrook Dale Company. Here, also, is the first-class refreshment room, and the elegant apartment used by Her Majesty as a robing-room at the Exhibition on the 1st of May.
The first court on the north side going west, of the British and Colonial department of the Exhibition, is devoted to the various articles gathered from the territories of the East India Company. The most striking portion of the gorgeous show, is the tent fitted up in the eastern style, with carpets and shawls of the most superb character, and rare articles of Indian furniture, &c. Three crowns, belonging to tri- butary princes, occupy a cushion in this regal apai'tment. Two entire courts entered from the transept are surrounded by shawls of most costly and rare fabrics, many of them of gold and silver tissues. In the large court are richly wrought bedsteads, thrones of state, palanquins, and chairs, used by the native princes. Some Burmese Carved Work-boxes are also exhibited, of astounding elaborateness, and inlaid ivory- work, models of natives at their different occupations, carved chess-men, and carpets of beautiful fabric and colour. Near the main avenue, is a gilded cage, filled with gold and silver work, also with jewels of great value. The collection of Pirate Craft sailing out from one corner, gives us a lively idea of the marauding tendency of the natives of Borneo and the Malayan Archipelago. Malta succeeds to the East Indies, and shows some fine silver filagree work, some inlaid tables, and specimens of the well-known stone-carving from Valetta, Passing over the courts devoted to Ceylon, Jersey, and Guernsey, we come to the Fine Arts court. The Royal Cradle.
lx IIIK CRYSTAL PALACB. [TkeBli— fff
carved, by Rogers, in Turkey box-wood, is remarkable. Notice the very beautiful Mexican Figures, modelled in wax. The Kenihvorth Buffet, made of an old oak, formerly growing near Kenihvorth Castle, and carved with scenes, illustra- tive of Elizabeth's celebrated visit — must not be over- looked— neither must the very beautiful carvings in wood, by YVallis of Louth. Sanitarians should see the model rooms for the working-classes, built with hollow bricks and other articles, exhibited by the Society for the Improve- ment of Dwellings of the Working Classes ; the Model Cottages, oxitside the Exhibition, erected by Prince Albert* which is open to the public, should be seen afterwards. There are some classical figures, carved in ivory, well worthy of attention, in this room. The space allotted to Paper Manufactures exhibits two objects of great attraction. A specimen of paper, more than 2500 yards long made by the endless machine, and De la Rue's extraordinary Envelope Fold- ing Machine, which turns out, with the precision of the human hand, 2S00 envelopes an hour, gummed and folded. Another highly interesting object in this class is the case of the British and Foreign Bible Society, containing specimens of 165 books, in different languages, from 170 versions of the Holy Scriptures.
The coui-t devoted to "Machinery at Rest," ifl now entered. In this will be found the Great Hydraulic Press \ised for lifting the Tubes of the Britannia bridge; Nasmyth's great Steam Hammer : Armstrong's Hydraulic Crane: the Patent Derick Crane, and a number of Steam-Engines used in Marine Navigation; one, by Bolton and Watt, is of 700 horse power, intended to work a screw. The court containing "Machinery in Motion," is by far the largest in the Exhibition* and is, perhaps, the most interesting. All the
machines and models in it arc set in motion by steam, con- ducted by clothed pipes underground, from the boiler-house outside the build '■'•: the interesting mai nines to be
seen at WOTS from 10 in the morning Until 6 in the after- noon, is a Jacquard Power Loom, employed in working : a Silk Loom and a machine for making card | for carding cotton arc also seen at work : and two eery curious models of machines, invented by Jonas Watt him-
iu London.] THE CRYSTAL PALACE. lxi
self, one of them a locomotive. The process of Flax- spiuniug and weaving is illustrated throughout by a number of machines which are patented ; a Rope-spinning Machine also attracts attention — here the largest kind of cable is twisted from the flax in a space a few feet square, thus obviating the necessity of long rope-walks. The Silk Machinery from Derby, the Lace Machines from Notting- ham, and a Bobbin Net Machine, should be studied. Applegath's four-feeding Vertical Printing Machine, such as is used for printing the " Times," is here seen at work. The Centrifugal Pump, discharging from the height of twenty feet twenty tons of water per minute with all the force and noise of a cataract, attracts much attention. The Patent Sugar Refining Machine, exhibited by the Messrs. Finzel, of Bristol, is also curious; by this machine the crystals are separated from the molasses instantaneously. Close to the Machinery court, is the department devoted to Cotton Spinning, in which the whole process is gone through by a series of most complicated machines. The Locomotive department runs parallel to these rooms, and is occupied by several new kinds of Railway Carriages, and by monster Engines, including one built by the Great Western Railway Company — The Lord of the Isles — the largest ever constructed. The Carnage department, close at hand, is full of choice specimens of coach-building, including a new Omnibus, and a Brougham on two wheels, with the driver sitting overhead ; some large wheels made by machinery, &c. Having now exhausted the courts lead- ing off from those in direct apposition to the nave, we shall return to those containing manufactured articles. These are devoted to Furniture, Hair, Furs, and Leather. At the entrance to the former, is a very beautiful Cabinet, by a Taunton manufacturer. The articles in the latter are all of the first class, but not very novel. In the leather department, notice a Glass Case containing Shoes from the Saxon to the present time. The extreme western end of the north side, is devoted to specimens of Calico printing.
Crossing over to the south-side of the nave, aud working our way eastward towards the transept, the Exhibitions of
brii THE CRYSTAL PALACE. The Stranger
Cotton, Woollen and Linen Fabrics, succeed one another. Among these articles will be found Cloths printed with diffe- rent patterns on each side, and Table Cloths on linen of beautiful ornamental designs. Notice the Chess Board, carved out of innumerable layers of cotton, ami the seamless garment. The method of Weaving Irish Poplins is shown by a loom at work. The Art of Calico Printing is also illustrated here. The Furniture court affords some fine Carving and some exquisite Mirrors of town manufacture. In the Hardware court notice particularly the Grates from Sheffield, which are very beautiful, and the first fruits of the Government Schools of Design. The Mediaeval court, which follows, is devoted to Church Ornaments ; this court was arranged by Mr. Pugin, and should be studied as it contains some beautiful revivals of ancient forms ; an Altar Tomb, in white marble, is exquisitely carved. The English Statuary court is close at hand, in which some of the most beautiful works of art are to be found ; notice Greek Hunter and Dog, by Gibson ; the Startled Nymph, by Behnes ; a Bather, by Lawlor ; Nymph Surprised, by Bell ; the exquisite Portrait Statue of Flaxman, by Watson | the Head of Christ ; the two beautiful heads of L'Allegro and II Penseroso; and the Art-Union statues in tho centre. The courts devoted to the British Colonies follow. These principally exhibit raw materials. From Bermuda we have flowers made of small shells and fruits modelled in wax. The Canada court illustrates the healthy progress of our X. American colonies. Here notice the splendid Sleighs, the powerful Fire Engine, and the Canoe which carried a large party some hundreds of miles down a Canadian river. Products from India take up the spare next to the transept, which concludes our journey on the ground- floor. A golden (age, similar t<> the one OH the opposite side contains some magnitieent Jewels, including "the Sea of Light" diamond, and an emerald of immense value; some Costly Robes in gl;. ust also be noticed;
and the collection of Indian Arms is well worthy of attention; Oanopiej of embroidered silk for occasions of state, and elephant trappings give a thoroughly oriental cha- racter to the department. The space devoi- dtural
■ a Lon.lon.; IBB CRYSTAL I'.vi.ack. lxiii
Implements, runs along the back of the courts devoted to the Colonies, and. English Textile Fabrics;— notice here the several Steam Ploughs.
The galleries of the British portion of the building, will conclude the walk through the Exhibition. Upstairs will be found articles remarkable for the excellence of their manufacture, rather than for novelty of idea or design, we shall not, consequently, have much to say respecting them. Beginning from the north transept and going west, the visitor must notice the Carpet, executed by one hundred and fifty ladies of Great Britain, and presented to Her Majesty, by whom it is exhibited ; and another Carpet also designed for the Queen by Mr. Griiner. Among the pottery notice the exquisite painted China and Porcelain, manufactured by Minton, which will bear a favourable com- parison with that of the Royal Berlin Porcelain Wox-ks, or of the more celebrated Sevres. The glass which follows shows the immense progress made within the last few years by the British manufacturer ; observe the Glass Candelabra and the beautiful Iced glass, the manufacture of Messrs. Apsley Pellat, and a neighbouring stall devoted to pure white crystal glass in excellent taste. Philosophical, Surgical, and Musical Instruments cover both the central and north gallery. At the more western end, Engineering Models are to be found ; notice here the beautiful Model of a pro- posed Gothic Bridge for Westminster; and the singular Model of a Man made of many thousand Steel Plates and Springs, so constructed as to enable the inventor to expand or curtail its proportions. Here also will be found several Flying Machines and Balloons with Machinery to work against the wind. At the west-end of the building a vast number of Models of Ships are congregated ; among these notice the curious collection of Life Boats, and the Model of the Battle of Trafalgar at the moment Nelson is breaking the enemy's line. The deadly Harpoon Gun will here be found. The great Organ with eighty stops stands at the extreme end of the building overlooking the nave, and com- manding a view of the centre of the building from end to end. Passing down the south galleries towards the east, wc come upon the various specimens of Arms, Watches,
brfv TIIK CRYSTAL I'ALACE. [TLc Stranger.
Clocks, and works in the Precious Metals ; among these notice the stands of Hunt and Roskell, and Morel's of New Burlington Street. In the former will be found the exquisite Bouquet of Moss Roses, formed by diamonds, belonging to the Duchess of Orleans, and specimens of the various precious Stones in the rough and wrought state ; in the latter the oriental Agate Cups, the collection of Rubies, and the beautiful designs in silversmiths' work. Messrs. Garrard exhibit some exquisite bracelets and neck- laces. Lace, Tapestry, and Silks follow, the richest and rarest designs of which, and the marvellous Paisley Shawls equal to any Eastern, productions, are to be found in this space along the south transept, where we conclude our tour of the build- ing. The space railed off outside at the western extremity of the building, is devoted to enormous masses of Coal, Stone, and the beautiful Marble, called Serpentine: and far out on the sod is the statue of Richard Cceur dc Lion, by Baron Marochetti.
Unless government interferes, the Palace must bo taken down in November, and the ground restored to a grass-plot as it was before. Mr. Paxton suggests that it should be con- verted into a winter-garden ; and if the building mist remain it could not be turned to a better account. It should, however, at least be self-supporting.
MODERN LONDON.
PALACES OF THE SOVEREIGN.
The Town Palaces are four in number, viz., Buckingham Palace, in which her Majesty resides ; St. James's Palace, in which she holds her Drawing-rooms; the beautiful fragment of the Palace of Whitehall, used as a Chapel Royal, but better known as Inigo Jones's Banqueting-house ; and the Palace at Kensington, in which her Majesty was born.
1. BUCKINGHAM PALACE, in St. James's Park, was com- menced in the reign of George IV., on the site of Buckingham House, by John Nash, and completed in the reign of William IV., but never inhabited by that sovereign, who is said to have expressed his great dislike to the general appear- ance and discomfort of the whole structure. When the first grant to George IV. was given by Parliament it was intended only to repair and enlarge old Buckingham House ; and therefore, the old site, height, and dimensions were retained. This led to the erection of a clumsy building, and was a mere juggle on the part of the king and his architect — knowing as they did that Parliament would never have granted the funds for an entirely new Palace. On her Majesty's accession several alterations were effected by Mr. Blore — a dome in the centre, like a common slop-basin turned upside down, was removed, and new buildings added to the S. : her Majesty entering into her new Palace on the 13th of JuhT, 1S37. Other and more extensive alterations have since taken place by the removal of a Marble arch, and the erection, at a cost of 150,000L of an E. front, under the superintendence of Mr. Blore. The chapel on the S. side, originally a conser- vatory, was consecrated in 18i3. The Grand Staircase is of white marble, with decorations by L. Gruner. The Library
•2 BUCKINGHAM PALAI
is generally used Bf B Waiting-room for deputations, which, as soon as the Queen is re idy to receive them, pan act Sculpture-gallery into the Hall, and thence ascend by the Grand Staircase through in anteroom and the Green Draw- ing-room, to the Throne-room. The Green 1 1 raw in g- room opening upon the upper story of the portico of the old build- ing is 50 feet in length, and 32 in height. At state halls, to which the invitations generally exceed 2000, those haying the entree alight by the temporary garden entrance, and the general circle enter by the grand hall. All visitors, however, are conducted through the Green Drawing-room to the Picture Gallery and the Grand Saloon. On these occasions
refreshments are served in the Carter-room and Green Drawing-room, and supper laid in the principal Dining-room. The concerts, invitations to which seldom exceed 300, are given in the Grand Saloon. The Xfaone-room la 64 Feet in length, and hung with crimson satin, striped. The ceiling of the room [a coved, and richly emblazoned with arms; here is a white marble frieze (the Wars of I designed by Btothard and executed by Baily, ll.A. The Mews, concealed from the Palace by a lofty mound, con- tains a spaeious riding-school; a room expressly for k state harness; stables for the state horses; and hou 40 carriages. Here, too, is kept the magnificent state coach, designed by Sir W. Chambers in 1762; and painted by Cipriani with a series of emblematieal Bubjects; the entire cost being T661& 16s. 5d. The stud of horses and the carriage may be inspected by an order from the M the Horse. The entrance La in Queen's-row, Pimlico. In the Gardena is the Queen'a Bummer-house, containing f
(B in number) from Milton's Coinus. exeeuted in 1844-5, by Eastlake. Bfaclise, Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, I and Etoes. 'I'ii'1 ornamental and borders are by Gruner. The Queen has 325,0002. a y< ir iettled upon her, of which 60,0001 a year only is in her own hands; the remainder is spent by the Lord Chamberlain of the Household, the Lord Steward of the Household, and other great officers at1 ! to the Court The pictures were principally collected by I V., and include the 9 Thomas
The Dutch and Flemish pictures, <>t" which the collection chiefly consists, are hung to ether. They are almost without exception first-rate a The portraits
are in the S 01 adjoinin . •
tfatthew
called from tii'' iv.vi|it of Custom. Bucbbaxdt ; I Adoration of the Magi; The Balp-boUdar and nil vlfig
OPINING 01 PARLIAMENT. 3
George IV. when Prince of Wales, 5000 guineas) ; Burgomaster Pancra mid his Wife. — Bubhto: Pythagoras; the fruit and animals by Svtoers; a Landscape; The Assumption of the Virgin; St. George and the Dragon; Tan and Syrinx; The Falconer; Family of Olden Barneyeldt. Ores: Marriage of Bt Catherines Christ healing the Lame .Man: Study of Three Horses j Portrait of a Man in black ; Queen Henri- etta .Maria presenting Charles I. with a crown of laurel. — Mytkns: Charl.s [.and his Queen, full-length figures in a small picture. — Jansen; Charles I. walking in Greenwich Park with his Queen and two children. — N. Maes : A xoung Woman, with her ringer on her lip and in a listening attitude, stealing duwn a dark winding Staircase (very fine). — Beveral tine specimens of Cuyp, Hobbema, Ruysdael, A. Vandervelde, YotrvGBB Vanmi:i:\ ki.im:. P.\fi. Potter, Backihyskx, Ukrguem, Both, C. Douw, Karel Du Jardix, De Hooohe, Metzi', (his own portrait), F. Mieris, A. Ostade, I. Ostade, Schalken', Jan Steen, Texiers, Terburo, &c. — Sir JogHl a Ukyxolds: Death of Dido; Cymonand Iphi- genia ; His own portrait, in spectacles. — Zoffany : Interior of the Florentine Gallery ; Royal Academy in 1773. — Sir P. Lelt : Anne Hyde, Duchess of York. — Sir D. Wilkie : The Penny Wedding ; Blind Man's Burl'; Duke of Sussexjn Highland dress. — Sir W. Allan : The Orphan ; Aune Scott near the vacant chair of her father, Sir Walter Scott. — Mode of Admission to view the Pictures: — order from the Lord Chamberlain, granted only when the Court is absent.
When Parliament is opened, or prorogued, or dissolved, by yesty in person, the following is the order observed : — The ijuecn leaves Buckingham Palace at a quarter before 2, being conducted to her carriage by the Lord Chamberlain and the Vice-Chamberlain, and her Crown carried to the House of Lords by one of the Lord Chamberlain's chief officers. The State procession includes a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying 3 gentlemen ushers and the Exon in waiting; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the Groom in waiting, the Groom in waiting to Prince Albert, and the 2 Pages of Honour in waiting ; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the Equerry in waiting, the Equerry in waiting to Prince Albert, and the Groom of the Robes ; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the Clerk Marshal, the Silver Stick in waiting, the Field Officer in waiting, and the Comptroller of the Household ; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the Captain of the Yeomen of the Guard, the Lord in waiting, the Lord in waiting to Prince Albert, and the Treasurer of the Household ; a carriage drawn by a set of black horses, conveying the Lady in waiting, the Lord Steward, the < told Stick in waiting, and the Groom of the Stole to the Prince. Here the carriage procession is 1' by the Queen's Maivhahnen, the Queen's Footmen in State, and a party of the Yeoman Guard.' Then follows the State Coach drawn by 8 cream-coloured horses, convoying the Queen, Prince Albert, the Mistress of the Kobes. and the Master of the U>
4 ST. JAMES S PALACE.
2. ST. JAMES'S PALACE. Au irregular brick building, the only London Palace of our Sovereigns from the burning of Whitehall, in the reign of William III., to the occupation of Buckingham Palace by her present Majesty. It was first made a manor by Henry VIII., and was previously an hos- pital dedicated to St. James, and founded for fourteen sisters, " maidens that were leprous." When Henry altered or re- built it, (it is uncertain which), he annexed the present Park, closed it about with a wall of brick, and thus connected the manor of St. James's with the manor or Palace of Whitehall. Little remains of the old Palace ; nothing, it is thought, but the old, dingy, patched-up brick gateway towards St. James's- street, contiguous to which is the Chapel Royal, bearing, in the chimney-piece of the old Presence-chamber, the initials H. A. (Henry and Anne Boleyn). The Queen still holds her Drawing-rooms in this Palace, for the purposes of which, though not for a royal residence, it is particularly adapted. In the " Colour-court," (to the E., and so called because the standard of the household regiment on duty is planted within it), the Guards muster every day at 11, and the band of the regiment plays for about a quarter of an hour. The visitor should see this once. In the Great Council-chamber, before the King and Queen, the odes of the Poets Laureate were performed and sung. Mary I. died here. Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., died here. Charles II. was born here. Here Charles I. took leave of his children the day before his execution ; and here he passed his last night, walking the next morning " from St. James's through the Park, guarded with a regiment of foot and partisans," to the scaffold before Whitehall. Monk took up his quarters in " St. James's House," while his plans for the Restoration were as yet undecided. James II.'s son, by Mary of Modena, the old Pretender, was bom here. A contemporary plan of the Palace is dotted with lines, to show the way in which the child was said to have been conveyed in the warming-pan to her Majesty's bed in the Great Bed-chamber. Queen Anne (then the Princess Anne) describes St. James's Palace " as much the propercst place to act such a cheat in.'' Here died Caroline, Queen of George II. ; and here George IV. was born. In the dingy brick house on the west side of the Ambassadors' Court, or west quadrangle, Marshal Bluoherwaa lodged' in 1814. He would frequently Bit at the drawing- room windows, and smoke and bow to the people, pleased with the notice that was taken of him.
Every information respecting the mode of jvrwntation at Court may be obtained at the offices of the Lord Steward at
PRESENTATION AT COURT. — WHITEHALL. .')
Buckingham Palace, and of the Lord Chamberlain, in St. James's Palace. Levees are restricted to gentlemen ; Drawing-rooms to ladies (principally) and gentlemen. The days on which they take place are advertised in the morning and evening papers, with the necessary directions about carriages, &c, some days before. The greatest occasion in every year is, of course, on Her Majesty's birthday (which is made a kind of moveable feast), but presentations do not take place on that day. Any subject of Great Britain, who has been presented at St. James's, can claim to be presented, through the English ambassador, at any foreign court. On the presentation of Addresses to Her Majesty, no comments are suffered to be made. A deputation to present an Address must not exceed four persons. Tickets to the corridor, affording the best sight to the mere spectator, are issued by the Lord Cham- berlain to persons properly introduced. For gentlemen to be presented, it is absolutely necessary that their names, with the name of the nobleman or gentleman who is to present them, should be sent to the Lord Chamberlain's office several days previous to presentation, in order that they may be submitted for the Queen's approbation, it being Her Majesty's command that no presentation shall be made at any Levees but in conformity with the above regulations. Noblemen and gentlemen are also requested to bring with them two large cards, with their names clearly written thereon, one to be left with the Queen's Page in attendance in the Presence-chamber, and the other to be delivered to the Lord Chamberlain, who will announce the name to Her Majesty. In the Chapel Eoyal, attached to the Palace, are seats appropriated to the nobility. Service is performed at 8 a.m. and 12 noon. Admittance, 25. ! The service is chaunted by the boys of the Chapel Royal.
3. WHITEHALL. The Palace of the Kings of England from Henry VIII. to William III., of which nothing remains but Inigo Jones's Banqueting-house, James II.'s statue, and the memory of what was once the Privy Garden, in a row of houses, so styled, looking upon the Thames. It was originally called York House; was delivered and demised to Henry VIIL, on the disgrace of Cardinal Wolsey, Archbishop of York, and then first called Whitehall. Henry VIII.'s Whitehall was a building in the Tudor or Hampton Court style of architec- ture, with a succession of galleries and courts, a large Hall, a Chapel, Tennis-court, Cockpit, Orchard, and Banqueting- house. James I. intended to have rebuilt the whole Palace, and Inigo Jones designed a new Whitehall for that King,
B WHITEHALL,
worthy of our nation and his own great name. But nothing was built beyond the present Panqueting-house, deservedly looked upon as a model of Palladian architecture, and one of the finest buildings in the whole of London. Charles I. contemplated a similar reconstruction, but poverty at first prevented him. and the Civil War soon after was a more effectual prohibition. Charles II. preserved what money he could spare from his pleasures to build a palace at Win- chester. James II. was too busy about religion to attend to architecture, and in "William III.'s reign the whole of White- hall, except the Banqueting-house, was destroyed by fire. William talked of rebuilding it after Inigo's designs, but nothing was done. Anne, his successor, took up her abode in St. James's Palace, and Yanbrugh built a house at White- hall out of the ruins — the bouse ridiculed by Swift with such inimitable drollery. The present Banqueting-house was designed by Inigo Jones, between 1619 and 1622. The master-mason was Nicholas Stone, the sculptor of the fine monument to Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey. The Hall is exactly a double cube, being 111 feet long, 55 feet 6 inches high, and 55 feet 0 inches wide.
King Charles I. was executed on a scaffold erected in front of the Banqueting-house, towards tin- Park. The warrant directs that he should be executed "in the open street before "Whitehall." Lord Leicester tells us in his Journal, that he was "beheaded at Whitehall-gate." Dugdale, in his Diary, that he was "beheaded at the gate of Whitehall; and a ■ingle Bheet of tho time, preserved in the British Museum, that ''the King was beneaded at Whitehall-gate." There cannot, therefore, be a doubt that tie' Boaffold was erected in front of the building being the present Horse Guards. We now come to the n< \t poini which has excited some discus- sion. P. appears from Herbert's minute account of the
King's last moments, that "the King was Led all along the
galleries and Banqueting-house, and there was a pa broken tit rnwjh tin- will, by which the Kin,' passed unto the •oaffold." This seems particular enough, and leads, it is said, bo a conclusion that the Boaffold was erected on the north side. Wherever the • s broken through, one
thing is certain, the scaffold was erected on the wesi side, or,
in Other words. •■ in I be Open street." now called Whitehall ; and that the Kin-, a- laid! D hi- Me'
conducted to the scaffold out of the window- of the Baa* queting-honse." Ludlow, who tells us this, was one of the regicides, and what he only and straightforwardly!
is continued by an engraving of the execution, published at
WHITEHALL. — KENSINGTON PALACE. 7
Amsterdam in the same year, and by the following memo- randum made by Vertue, on the copy of Terasson's large engraving of the Banqueting-house, preserved in the library of the Society of Antiquaries : — " It is, according to the truest reports, said that out of this window K. Charles went upon the scaffold to be beheaded, the window-frame being taken out purposely to make the passage on to the scaffold, which is equal to the landing-place of the Hall within side." The window marked by Vertue belonged to a small building abutting from the north side of the present Banqueting- house. From this window, then, the King stept upon the scaffold.
The ceiling of the Banqucting-house is lined with pictures on canvas, representing the apotheosis of James L, painted abroad by Rubens, in 1635. Kneller had heard that Rubens was assisted by Jordaens in the execution. The sum he received was 3000?. "What." says Walpole, " had the Ban- queting-house been if completed ! Van Dyck was to have painted the sides with the history and procession of the Order of the Garter." To be seen at all, they must be viewed from the south end of the apartment. Within, and over the principal entrance, ii a bust, in bronze, of James I., by, it is said, Le Scour. The Banqueting-house was con- verted into a chapel in the reign of George I., and re- altered as we now see it, between 1829 and 1837, by Sir Robert Smirke. It has never been consecrated. Here, on every Maunday Thursday, (the day before Good Friday,) the Queen's eleemosynary bounty (a very old custom) is distri- buted to poor and aged men and women.
The statue of James II., behind the Banqueting-house, was the work of Grading Gibbons, and was set up while the King was reigning, at the charge of an old servant of the crown called Tobias Rustat. The King, it is said, is pointing to the spot where his father was executed ; and this vulgar error, though exposed long ago, is still repeated. Nothing can illustrate better the mild character of the Revolution of 1688, than the fact that the statue of the abdicated and exiled King was allowed to stand, and still stands, in the innermost court-yard of what was once his own Palace.
4. KENSINGTON PALACE is a large and irregular edifice, originally the seat of Heneage Finch, Earl of Nottingham and Lord Chancellor of England; whose son, the second earl, sold it to King William III., soon after his accession to the throne. The lower portion of the building was part of Lord Nottingham's house ; the higher story was added by
8 LAMBETH PALACE.
William III., from the designs of "Wren, and the N.W. angle by George II., as a Nursery for liis children. William III. and Queen Mary, Queen Anne, her husband Prince George of Denmark, and King George II., all died in this Palace. Her present Majesty was born in it, (1819,) and here (1837) she held her first Council. The Duke of Sussex, son of George III., lived, died, and had his fine library in this Palace. The Orangery, a very fine detached room, was built by Wren. The royal collection of pictures (long famous in catalogues, and still known as the Kensington Collection to the readers of Walpole,) has, for the most part, been removed to other palaces ; and the kitchen-garden has recently been built over with two rows of detached mansions, called "Palace-gardens." The chief attraction inside is a collection of early German art. formed, with taste and knowledge, by his Royal Highness Prince Albert, to which admission may be obtained by writing to L. Griiner, Esq., 13, Fitzroy -square.
HOUSES OF THE PRINCIPAL NOBILITY AND GENTRY.
LAMBETH PALACE, or LAMBETH HOUSE, on the S. side of the Thames over-against the Palace at Westminster, has been the palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury from a very early peinod, and contains many parts in its architecture worthy of attention, and various gradations from Early English to late Perpendicular. The Ch<<]»l. the oldest part of the Talace, was built by Boniface, Archbishop ot' Canter- bury, (1244-70). It is Early Kurdish, with lancet windows and a crypt. The roof is new. There is an oak leroon with the arms of Archbishop Laud, by whom it was erected. Before the altar is the grave of Archbishop Parker, (d. 1575). In this chapel all the archbishops have been consecrated since the time of Bonifaco. The tained glass windows were destroyed in the Civil Wars, and are feelingly lamented by Laud in the History of his Troubles. The glass now in the
windows was placed at the expense of the Last Archbishop
(Howlcy). Tho Lollards' Tower at the W. end of the chapel wasbuilt by Archbishop Chicheley, in the years 1484-46, and
so called from the Lollards, who are Said (ineorreetly.it is now ascertained) to have been Imprisoned in it. On the front being the river is a niche, in which was placed the image of St. ThomaSj and at thfl to,, i~ a small room (13 feet by 12, and about 8 feet high) called the prison, wainscotted with
LONDON HOUSE. — AFSLEY BOUSE, 9
Oak above an inch thick, on which several names and broken sentences in old characters are cut, as " Chessam Doctor," "Petit Iouganham," "Ihs eyppe me out of all el compane, amen," "John Worth," "Nosce Teipsum," &c. The large iron rings in the wall (eight in number) seem to sanction the supposed appropriation of the room. The Post-room in this tower contains an ornamented flat ceiling, of uncommon occur- rence. The Gate-house, of red brick, with stone dressings, is said to have been built bv Archbishop Morton, Cardinal and Lord Chancellor, (d. 1500). The Hall, 93 feet by 38, was built by Archbishop Juxon, the bishop who attended Charles I. to the scaffold. Over the door (inside) are the arms of Juxon, and the date 1663. The roof is of oak, with a louvre or lantern in the centre for the escape of smoke. The whole design is Gothic in spirit, but poor and debased in its details. The bay window in the Hall contains the arms of Philip II. of Spain (the husband of Queen Mary) ; of Archbishops Ban- croft, Laud, and Juxon ; and a portrait of Archbishop Chicheley. The Library, of about 25,000 volumes, and kept in the Hall, was founded by Archbishop Bancroft (d. 1610); enriched by Archbishop Abbot (d. 1633); and enlarged by Archbishops Tenison and Seeker. One of its greatest curiosities is a MS. of Lord Rivers's translation of The Dictes and Sayings of the Philosophers, containing an illumination of the earl introducing Caxton, the printer (it is said), to Edward IV., his Queen and Prince. The portrait of the Prince (afterwards Edward V.) is the only one known of him, and has been engraved by Vertue among the Heads of the Bangs. Of the English books in the library printed before 1600, there is a brief but valuable catalogue by Dr. Maitland, many years librarian. The whole habitable Palace was erected by the last Archbishop (Howley) from the de- signs of Edward Blore, and contains a few good portraits, such as the head of Archbishop Warham, by Holbein, (the picture really from his hand,) and the portrait of Archbishop Tillotson, by Mrs. Beale. The income of the Archbishop of Canterbury is 15,000?. a year.
LONDON HOUSE, No. 22, St. James's Square, the resi- dence of the Bishop of London. It has no architectural pretensions. The income of the Bishop is above 15,000?. a year, but the bishop's successor will be fixed at 10,000?. The house belongs to the See.
APSLEY HOUSE, Hyde Park Corner. The London residence, since 1820, of Field Marshal the Duke of Wellington ,
10 \ I SLEY HOUSE.
built by Henry Bathurst, Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst, and Lord High Chancellor, (d. 1794,) the son of Pope's friend, to whom the site was granted by George III., under letters patent of May the 3rd, 1784. The house, originally of red brick, was faced with Bath stone in 1828, when the front portico and the "W". wing, containing on the upper stories a gallery 90 feet long, (to the W.,) were added for the Duke by Messrs. S. & B. Wyatt ; but the old house is intact. The iron blinds — bullet-proof it is said — were put up by the Duke during the ferment of the Reform Bill, when his windows were broken by a London mob. They were the first of the kind, and have since been generally copied.
Observe. — George IV., full-length, in a Highland costume, by WUUe. —William IV., full-length, hy WUkie.— Sarah, the first Lady Lynd- hurst,hy Wilkie. This picture was penetrated hy a stone in the Reform Riot, but the injury has been skilfully repaired. — Emperor Alexander. — Kings of Prussia, France, and the Netherlands, full-lengths.— Battle of Waterloo, Napoleon in the foreground (Sir William Allan). The Duke bought this picture at the Exhibition; he is said to have called it " good, very good, not too much smoke." — Many portraits of Napoleon, one by David, extremely good. — Wilkies Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo, painted for the Duke. — Burnet's Greenwich Pensioners celebrating the Anniversary of the Battle of Tra- falgar, bought of Burnet by the Duke. Portraits of veterans in both pictures. — Colossal marble statue, of Napoleon, by Canova, with a figure of Victory on a globe in his hand, presented in 1817 to the Duke by the Prince Regent.— Christ on the Mount of Olives, (Correggio,) the most celebrated picture of Correggio in this country; on panel, and captured in Spain, in the carriage of Joseph Buonaparte; restored by the captor to Ferdinand VII., but with others, under the like circumstances, again presented to the Duke by that sovereign. Here, as in the tfotte, the light proceeds from the Saviour; there is a copy or duplicate in the National Gallery.— An Annunciation, after M. Angela, of which the original drawing is in the I'lhz.j at Florence.— The Adoration of the Shepherds, by Sogliani. — The Water-seller, by Vekuqv .. " We see," says Waagen, "from this picture how much Velasquez served Murillo as a model in such subjects." — Two fine portraits by Velasquez, (his own portrait, and the portrait of Pope Innocent X.)— A fine Spagnoletti — A small sea-piece, by Claude. u lias all the charm of this master," says Waagen, "and of his best period." — A large and good Jan Si >
Wedding Feast, dated 1667).— A Peasant's Wedding (Ttnieta).— fioorfl Drinking (A. Ostade).—T\\o celebrated Terburg, (the Signing toe Peace of Westphalia,) from the Talleyrand Collection, singularly enough, this picture hung in the room In which the allied sovereigns signed the treaty of Paris, in 1814. — A fine Philip ]l'»uvermans (the Return from the Chase) . — View of Veght, by Vanderhepdm.
The Crown's interest in the house was sold to the Duke for the sum of 9530/. ; the Crown reserving a right to forbid the erection of any other house or houses on the site.
NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, Ciiahing Cross, the town-house of the Duke of Northumberland, [with rich cen- tral gateway, surmounted by the Lion crest of the Percies,)
NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE. 11
and so called after Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, (d. 1668,) the subject of more than one of Van Dyck's finest portraits. It was built by Henry Howard, Earl of North- ampton, (son of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, the poet,) Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christmas being, it is said, his architects. The Earl of Northampton left it, in 1614, to his nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, (father of the memorable Frances, Countess of Essex and Somerset,) when it received the name of Suffolk House, by which name it was known until the marriage, in 1642, of Elizabeth, daughter of Theophilus, second Earl of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth Earl of Northumberland, who bought the house of James, Earl of Suffolk, for 15,000Z., and called it Northumberland House. Josceline Percy, eleventh Earl of Northumberland, (son of the before-mentioned Algernon Percy,) dying in 1670, without issue male, Northumberland House became the property of his only daughter, Elizabeth Percy, heiress of the Percy estates, afterwards married to Charles Seymour, commonly called the proud Duke of Somerset. The Duke and Duchess of Somerset lived in great state and magnificence in Northum- berland House, for by this title it still continued to be called, as the name of Somerset was already attached to an older inn or London town-house in the Strand. The duchess died in 1722, and the duke, dying in 1748, was succeeded by his eldest son, Algernon, Earl of Hertford and seventh Duke of Somerset, created Earl of Northumberland in 1749, with remainder, failing issue male, to Sir Hugh Smithson, Bart., husband of his only daughter, which Sir Hugh Smithson was raised to the Dukedom of Northumberland in 1766. The present duke (1851) is the grandson of this Sir Hugh Smith- son, Duke of Northumberland. The house originally formed three sides of a quadrangle, (a kind of main body with wings,) the fourth side remaining open to the gardens and river. The principal apartments were on the Strand side; but after the estate became the property of the Earl of Suffolk, the quadrangle was completed by a side towards the Thames. The date, 1749, onthefagade, refers to the work of repara- tion, which commenced in that year ; and the letters A. S., P. N., stand for Algernon Somerset, Princeps Northumbrise.
Observe. — The celebrated Cornaro Family, by Titian. Evelyn saw it here in 1658. It has been much touched upon. St. Sebastian bound, on the ground ; in the air two angels : a clear, well-executed picture, by Guercino, with figures as large as life. A small Adoration of the Shepherds, by Giacomo Bassano. Three half figures in one picture, by Dobson, representing Sir Charles Cotterell, embraced by Dobson and Sir Balthazar Gerbier in a white waistcoat. A Fox and a Deer Hunt; two admirable pictures by Franz Snyders. A genuine
I J DEVONSHIRE BO
hut ordinary Holy Family, by /. Jortbma. A Netty fori, w itli a candle, before which she holds her hands, by <!. Schauta* ; of remarkahh' clearness and good impasto. The School of Athens, after Raphael, copied In 17.v>. and the best copy ever made of this celebrated picture. View of Alnwick, by Canatetti, valuable as snowing the state of the bnilding, arc 1760; fnll-lengtb portrait of Edward VI. when a boy of six or seven, assigned to Mabusr, and curious — he is in a red dress. A large and fine Bm§f9dael. Joaceline, 11th Earl of Northumberland, by Wissing (oval). Portrait of Napoleon when First Consul, by '/'. / I;. A., taken from repeated observation of Napoleon's face.
All that is old of the present building is the portal towards the Strand ; but even of this there is a good deal that is new. The house is massively furnished and in good taste. The staircase is stately; the Pompeian room most elegant, and the state Drawing-room, with its ten lights to the E., and its noble copies after Raphael, very magnificent, a room indeed not to be matched in London. Many of the fire-places, fenders, and fire-irons are of silver. The large Sevrc s in the centre of the great room was presented by Charles X. to the Duke of Nothumbcrland, the representative of Great Britain at Charles's coronation in 1825.
DEVONSHIRE HOUSE, Piccadilly. A good, plain, well-proportioned brick building, built by William Kent, for "William Cavendish, third duke of Devonshire, (d. 1755b It stands on the site of Berkeley House, destroyed by lire in 1733, and is said to have cost the sum of 20,000?., exclusive of 1000/. presented to the architect by the duke. Obs> t Very fine full-length portraits, on one canvas, of the Prince and Princess of Orange, by Jordaens. Fine three-quarter portrait of Lord Richard Cavendish, by Sir Joehua R< jinolds ; fine three-quarter portrait, in black drees, by 7%tUorettO : Sir Thomas Browne, author of Religio "Medici, and family, by Dobson ; fine male portrait, hjLdy. Portrait of the Earl of Burlington, the architect, by Kndler. The Devonshire (Jems, in a glass case, over fire-place — a noble collection. The " Kemblc Plays" — a matchless series of old Engjlish plays, with a rich collection of the first editions of Shaks]>eare. formed by John Philip Kemble, and bought, for 2000L, at his death, by the present duke, who has added largely to
the collection, and annotated the whole with his own hand.
The portico is modern, and altogether out of keeping with the net of the building. The old entrance, taken down in 1840, was by a flight of steps on each side. The magnifi- cent marble BtairCBSe at the hack of the house, with i:
balustrade, was erected by the present duke. The pari Devonshire House are among the leading attractions <<\' the
London season. The grand saloon (pari of Kent's design) is
STAFFORD HOUSE. 13
decorated in the style of Lo Brun, and is now used as a room. The grounds extend to Lansdowne House and the view from the Drawing-room commands the trees in Berkeley-square.
STAFFORD HOUSE, in St. James's Park, between St. James's Palace and the Green Park, was built, all but the upper story, for the Duke of York, (second son of George III.,) with money advanced for that purpose by the Marquis of Stafford, afterwards first Duke of Sutherland (d. 1833). The Duke of York did not live to inhabit it, and the Crown lease was sold in 1841 to the Duke of Sutherland, for the sum of 72,000?., and the purchase-money spent in the formation of Victoria Park. The upper story was added by the present duke. This is said to be the finest private mansion in the metropolis. Nothing can compete with it in size, taste, or de- coration. The great dining-room is worthy of Versailles. The internal arrangements were planned by Charles Barry, R.A. The pictures, too, are very fine ; but the collection distributed throughout the house is private, to which admission is obtained only by the express invitation or permission of the duke. The Sutherland Gallery, as it is called, is a noble room, 126 feet long by 32 feet wide.
PRINCIPAL PICTURES.
Raphael: Christ bearing his Cross; a small full-length figure, seen against a sky back-ground between two pilasters adorned with arabesqnes. Said to have been brought from a private chapel of the Pope in the Ricciardi Palace at Florence— Guido : Head of the Magdalen ; Study for the large picture of Atalanta in the Royal Palace at Naples; the Circumcision. — Guerctxo : St. Gregory; St. Grisogono ; a Landscape. — Paemegiano: Head of a Young Man (very fine).— Tintoretto: A Lady at her Toilet.— Titian : Mercury teaching Cupid to read in the presence of Venus (an Orleans picture, figures life-size); St. Jerome in the Desert; three Portraits.— Murillo (5): Two from Marshal Soult's Collection : the Return of the Prodigal Son (a composition of nine figures) ; Abraham and the Angels, cost 30OW.— F. Zurbaran (4): Three from Soult's Collection (very tine).— Velasquez (2) : Duke of Gandia at the Door of a Convent; eight figures, life-size, from the Soult Collection; Landscape.— Albert Durer : the Death of the Virgin.— IIonthorst : Christ before Pilate (Honthorst's chef d'eeuvre), from the Lucca Collection. — N.Poussix (3).— G. Poussin (1). — Rubens (4) : Holy Family; Marriage of St. Catharine; Sketch, en f/risnille, for the great picture in the Louvre, of the Marriage of Henry IV. and Marie de Medicis.— Van Dyck (4) ■ Three-quarter portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, seated in an arm-chair (very fine, and finely engraved by Sharp) ; two Portraits ; St. Martin dividing his Cloak (in a circle). — Watteau (5): all line. — D. Teniers (2): a Witch performing her Incantations; Ducks Id a IJool.— Terburg : Gentleman bowing to a Lady (very fine).— Sir JOSHUA REYNOLDS! Dr. Johnson without his Wig, and with his hands up.— Sir D. Wilkie: the Breakfast Table (painted for the first Duke of Sutherland).— Sib T. Lawbexob: Lady Gower and Child (the present Duchess of Sutherland, and her daughter, the present Duchess of Argyll).— E. BlBD, R.A.: Day after the Battle of CI
14 NORFOLK IImI.sk. — MONTAGUE B01
Sir E. Landseer, R.A.: Lord Stafford and Lady Evelyn Gow. r Lady Blantyiv ■.— W. Lmy. l.'.A.: I. -liv.il betDTC the Flood.— JOBS Mabtiv: tbe Assuaging of the Waters.— Paui : : Lord StraF-
ford "ii bis way t" the Bcaffold receives the bl hbishop Laud
— Winterhaltei: : Scene from the Decameron. — A collection of 150 portraits, illustrative of French history and French memoirs.
The land on which Stafford House stands belongs to the Cr< >wn, and the duke pays an annual ground-rent for the same of 758/. It stands partly on the site of Godolphin House, and partly on the site of the Library built by the Queen of George II. At least 250,000/. have been spent on Stafford Hoi
NORFOLK HOUSE, in the S.-E. corner of St. Jami>'s Squake, was so called from the seventh Duke of Norfolk, who died at hid house in St. JameVs-equare, April 2nd, 1701. It was built by Payne. The interior is handsome, the first floor consisting of a tine set of drawing-rooms toward the square, terminated by a magnificent dining-hall, lined with mirrors, the roof of which is very rich and beautiful. The arrangements of the house are not such as will allow of its being shown. In the rear is part of an older bouse in which Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban, of the time of Charles II., livi'.l, and in which George III. was 1 mm. In it are preserved the very valuable records of the great historical family of the Howards, and of those of Fitzalan and Mowbray, which have merged into it. Observe. — Portrait of the First Duke of Norfolk (Howard), three-quarter Length, in robes, with ■ mar- shall's staff in his lniiid. Holbein ; — • portraits of Bishop Trieste,
and of Henrietta Maria, in a green dress. 1'"// Dych :- portrait
of his wife, by Rubens; two very tine landscapes, by 8ah, Rosa; tlie Crucifixion, a curious picture, by that rare u Lucas Family of the Earl of Arundel, the collector j
■mall figures, by Mytena; Shield given by the Grand Duke of
Tuscany to the ill fated Henry Howard, Earl Of Surrey, at a
tournament in Florence, in 1537, painted in the style of Perino del Vaffa.
MONTAGU! BOUSE, Whothal^ a well placed, though
low and unimportant building, the town house of wis Duke ofBuccleuch, who inherits it from the noble Ian Montague. The its beloo - bo the < irown.
Some dark but good pictures by Van Dyck : viz. full- length of Duke of Hamilton in armour (hand leaning
on a helmet), front Eaoe, huif boots, hair over forehead, [very fine); rail-length of Lord Holland, Bias] hair short on forehead j rail-length of Duke of Rich* mond, in complete black- yellow hair over ihouldevaj
GROSVENOR HOUSE, 1 .';
brownish back-ground. Thirty-five sketches (en grisaille), by Van Dyck, inaJc for the celebrated series of portraits etched in part by Van Dyck, and published by Martin Vanden Endcn ; they belonged to Sir Peter Lely, and were bought at Lely's sale by Ralph, Duke of Montague. One of Canaletti's finest pictures, a view of "Whitehall, showing Holbein's gate- way, Inigo's Banquetiug-house, and the steeple of St. Martin's with the scaffolding about it. A noble collection of English miniatures, from Isaac Oliver's time to the time of Zincke.
GROSVENOR HOUSE, Upper Grosvenor Street. The town-house of the Marquis of "Westminster. The handsome screen of classic pillars, connecting a double archway which divides the court-yard from the street, was added in 1842. Here is the Grosvenor Gallery of Pictures, founded by Richard, first Earl Grosvenor, and augmented by his son, and grandson, the present noble owner. Rubens and Claude are seen to great advantage.
ANALYSIS OF THE COLLECTION.
Raphael (5): but, according to Passavant, not one by Raphael's own hand. — Mrunxo (3) : one a large Landscape with Figures. — Velasquez (2) : his own Head in a Cap and Feathers ; Prince of Spain on Horseback, small full-length. — Titian (3): the Woman taken in Adultery; a Grand Landscape; the Tribute Money. — Paul Veronese (3): Virgin and Child ; the Annunciation; Marriage at Cana ; small finished Study fur the Picture at Venice. — Guido (5; : Infant Christ Sleeping (fine, engraved by Strange); La Fortuna ; St. John Preaching; Holy Family; Adoration of the Shepherds. — Salvator Rosa (4) : one, his own Portrait. — Claude ("10) : all important, and not one sea-piece among them. — N. Poussix (4) : Infants at Play (fine).— G. Poussix (3).— Le Brux (1): Alexander in the Tent of Darius (finished Study for the large picture in the Louvre). — Rembrandt (7) : his own Portrait; Portrait of Berghem : Ditto of Berghem's Wife ; the Salutation of Elizabeth (small and very fine : a Landscape with figures— Rubens (11) : Sarah dismissing Hagar; Ixion ; Rubins and his first wife, Elizabeth Brandt; Two Boy Angels; Landscape (small and fine); the Wise Men's Offering; Conversion of St. Paul (sketch for Mr. Miles's picture at Leigh Court) ; Four Colossal Pictures, painted when Bubeni was in Spain, in 1629, and bought by Earl
tor. in 1810, for 10,0007.— Van DtCK (2): Virgin and Child; Portrait of Nicholas Laniere (this picture induced Charles I. to invite Van Dyck to England,). — Paul Potter 1} : View over the Meadows of a Dairy Farm near the Hague, Sunset (fine).— Hobbema ('2).— Gerard DOUW 1 .- <r\r 1 .— Snyders (2).— Teniers(3).— Van IhvsAM (1).— Vanm rvi:li»e fl). — WOUVBBHAXS (1) '. B Horse Fair. — Hogarth (2): the Distressed Poet; a Boy and s Raven.— Sib Joshua Reynolds (1) :
ddons, u the Tragic Muse, the original picture, cost 1760J (a masterpiece). — Gainsborough (3), all very line: the Blue Boy: the i <•.— K. WlLSOfl 1 I : View on the River Dee. B. Wbsi 6 : Battle of La Hogue; Death of General Wolfe; Wil- liam III. pa win » the Bojne : Cromwell dissolving the Long Parliament ; Landing of ( barles II. Admission — On Thursdays between 8 and 5 in the months of .May and June, by order granted by the Marquis of Westminster.
16 LAXSDOWNE HOUSE.
LANSDOWNE HOUSE, on the S. side of Berkeley Square, was built by Robert Adam for the Marquis of Bute, when minister to George III., and sold by the marquis, before completion, to Lord Shelburne, afterwards Marquis of Lans- downe, for 22,000£., which was supposed to be 3000Z. less than it cost. Priestley was living in Lansdowne House as librarian and philosophic companion to Lord Shelburne, when he made the discovery of oxygen. The Sculpture Gallery, commenced 1778, contains the Collection formed by Gavin Hamilton, long a resident in Rome. At the E. end is a large semicircular recess, containing the most important statues. Down the sides of the room are ranged the busts and other objects of ancient art. Observe. — Statue of the Youthful Hercules, heroic size, found in 1790, with the Townley Discobulus, near Hadrian's Villa ; Mercury, heroic size, found at Tor Columbaro, on the Appian Way. Here is a statue of a Sleeping Female, the last work of Canova ; also, a copy of his Venus, the original of which is in the Pitti Palace at Florence. A marble statue of a Child holding an alms-dish, by Rauch of Berlin, will repay attention. The Collection of Pictures was entirely formed by the present Marquis, since he came to the title in 1809. Observe. — St. John Preaching in the Wilderness, a small early picture by Raphael; half-length of Count Federigo da Bozzola, by Seb. del Piombo; full-length of Don Justino Francisco Neve, by Murillo ; head of himself, head of the Count Duke d'Olivarez ( Velasquez) ; two good specimens of Schidone ; Peg Woffing- ton, by Horjarth; 12 pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds — including The Sleeping Girl, The Strawberry Girl, Hope Nursing Love, and the noble portrait of Laurence Sterne ; Sir Robert Walpole, and his first wife, Catherine Shorter, by Echhart (in a frame by Gibbons — from Strawberry Hill); full-length of Pope, by Jervas; Portrait of Flaxman, by Jackson, R.A. ; Deer Stalkers returning from the hills (E. Landseer) ; Italian Peasants approaching Rome (Eastlake) ; Sir Roger de Coverley and the Spectator going to Church (C. R. Leslie) ; Sir Roger de Coverley and the^Gypsies (ditto) ; Olivia's return to her Parents, from the Vicar of Wakefield (O.S.Newton, R.A.); Machcath in Prison (ditto). Some of these have recently been removed to Bowood in Wiltshire, the country scat of the noble Marquis. The iron bars at the two ends of Lansdowne-passage (a near cut from Curzon- street to Hay-hill) were put up, late in the last century, in consequence of a mounted highwayman, who had committed a robbery in Piccadilly, having escaped from his pursuers through this narrow passage, by riding !ii ; horse up the step>.
BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. 17
w
BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, St. James's, fronts the Green Park, and was built 1846 — 51, from the designs of Charles Barry, R.A., for Francis, Earl of Ellesmere, great nephew, and principal heir of Francis Egerton, Duke of Bridgewater. The duke, dying in 1803, left his pictures, valued at 150,000£, to his nephew, the first Duke of Sutherland (then Marquis of Stafford), with remainder to the marquis's second son, Francis, now Earl of Ellesmere. The collection contains 47 of the finest of the Orleans pictures; and consists of 127 Italian, Spanish, and French pictures; 158 Flemish, Dutch, and German pictures ; and 33 English and German pictures — some 322 in all.
" There is a deficiency of examples of the older Italian and German schools in this collection ; hut from the time of Raphael the series is more complete than in any private gallery I know, not excepting the Lichten- stein Gallery at Vienna. The Caracci school can nowhere be studied to more advantage." — Mrs. Jameson.
Observe. — (O. C. signifying Orleans Collection.)
Raphael (4) : la Vierge an Palmier (in a circle) ; one of two Madonnas painted at Florence in 1506 for his friend Taddeo Taddei, O.C ; la plus Belle des Vierges, O.C. ; la Madonna del Passeggio, O.C; la Vierge au Diademe (from Sir J.Reynolds's collection? if genuine). — S.del Piombo (1); the Entombment.— Luini(I): Female Head, O.C. — Titian (4): Diana and Actaeon, O.C, (very fine) ; Diana and Calisto, O.C, (very fine); the Four ages of Life, O.C; Venus Rising from the Sea, O.C— Paul Ve- ronese (2) : the Judgment of Solomon ; Venus bewailing the death of Adonis, O.C. — Tintoretto (3): Portrait of a Venetian Gentleman, O.C; the Presentation in the Temple (small sketch) ; the Entombment, O.C. — Velasquez (3) : Head of Himself; Philip IV. of Spain (small full- length) ; full-length of the natural son of the Duke d'Olivarez (life-size, and fine). — Salvator Rosa (2): les Augures (very fine). — Gaspar Poussin (4) : Landscapes.— N. Poussin (8) : Seven called the Seven Sacraments, O.C; Moses striking the Rock (very fine), O.C. — An. Caracci (7) : St. Gregory at Prayer; Vision of St. Francis, O.C ; Danae, O.C; St. John the Baptist, O.C; same subject, O.C; Christ on the Cross, O.C; Diana and Calisto, O.C. — L. Caracci (6) : Descent from the Cross, O.C; Dream of St. Catherine ; St. Francis; a Pieta; 2 Copies after Correggio— Domenichino (5).— Guido (2) : Infant Christ sleeping on the Cross, O.C; Assumption of the Virgin (altar-piece).— Guer- cino (2) : David and Abigail, O.C; Saints adoring the Trinity (study). — Bekghem (5).— Ruysdael (6).— Claude (4): Morning (a little picture); Morning, with the story of Apuleius ; Evening, Moses before the Burning Bush; Morning (composition picture). — Rembrandt (5): Samuel and Eli; Portrait of Himself; Portrait of a Burgomaster ; Portraitof a Lady; Head of a Man.— Rubens (3) : St. Theresa (sketch of the large picture in the Museum at Antwerp) ; Mercury bearing Hebe to Olympus ; Lady with a fan in her hand (half-length). — Van Dyck (1) : the Virgin and Child.— Backhuysen (2).— Cuvp (6) : Landing of Prince Maurice at Dort (the masterpiece of this artist). — Vandervelde (7) : Rising of the Gale (very fine); Entrance to the Brill; a Calm; Two Naval Battles; a Fresh Breeze; View of the Texel.— Teniers (8) : Dutch Kermis or Village Fair (76 figures) ; Village Wedding; "Winter Scene in Flanders, the Traveller ; Ninepins; Alchymist in his Study ; Two Interiors. — Jan Steen (2) : the Schoolmaster (very fine); the Fishmonger.— A. Ostadb (6) ;
C
18 GHE0TBKFIELD H":
■ Interior of a Cottage; Lawyer in hisStndy; Village Alehouse; Dutch Peasant drinking a Health'; Tric-Trac ; Dutch Courtship.— G. Dorw (3): Interior, -with his own Portrait (very fine); Portrait of Himself; a Woman selling Herrings. — Twtttraa (l): xoung Girl in white satin drapery. I : a Girl at Work, (very fine). — Hobbema
(3).— Mf.tzi- (3).— Tiiii. ii' WOUVKR1ULX8 I . PZTXB ^^ • -i • BBMAV8 (1). — Unknown (1) : the Chandos Portrait of Shakspeare. bought at the sale at Stnwe, in 1848, for 355 guineas; it belonged to Sir AN" illi:\Tri Davi nant the poet, Petterton the actor, and Mrs. Barry the actress. — DOSS Head of Cleveland, the poet. — Lki.y : Countess of Middlesex (elegant). — BlCHABD "Wn.stiN, J;.A. (2). — G. B. NXWTOK, K.A. (1): Young hiding her face in grief. — J. M. W. Tcrnf.r, K.A. (1): Gale hi (nearly as fine as the fine Vandervrlde in this collection, Rising of the Gale). — F. Stone (I): Scene from Philip Van Artevelde. — Paul Dela- roche (1) : Charles I. in the Guard-room, insulted hy the^soldicrs of the Parliament.
The house stands on the site of what was once Berkshire House, then Cleveland House, and afterwards Bridgewater House.
Cards to view the Bridgewater Gallerv can be obtained from Messrs. Smith, 137, New Bond-street; Mr. Mitchell, 88, Old Bond-street:
Mr. Sams, 1, St.danies's-street ; 11. Craves & Co., 6, Pall Mall; Colnaghi & Co., 13, Pall Mall East; Ackermann & Co., 06, Strand; Mr. Moon, 20, Threadncedle-strect. Days of admission, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 10 till 5. — Catalogues may be had at Messrs. Smith's, and at the Gallery.
CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, South Audley-street, facing Hyde-park. The town-house of the Earl of Chesterfield, but lot (1851) to the Marquis of Abcrcorn. It was built by Isaac Ware, the editor of Palladio, for Philip, fourth Earl of Chosterfield, author of the celebrated Letters to his Son, and stands on ground belonging to Curzon, Earl Howe. The boudoir was called by Lord Chesterfield the gayest and most cheerful room in England, and the library the best.
"In the magnificent mansion which the Karl erected in Andley-street, yon may still see his favourite apartments furnished and decorated as he left them -among the rest, what be boasted of as •• the finest room in London," and perhaps BVen now it remains unsurpassed, his spacious and beautiful library, looking on the finest private garden in London. The w:ills lire covered half way up with rich and classical stores of
literature; above the cases are in close series the portraits of eminent authors, Preneh ami English, with most of whom he had conversed: over these, and Immediately under the massive cornice, extend all round
in foot-long capitals the Horatian lines: —
'.1.1 IKt'M . UBnn NO. K.T . IXEKTIBUS . II« >UI^.
DOGBBI . SOUOXT M . JUCOTTDJ . 08UVM . \ ■
Ob the manteLpleoea and oahrneti stand lm-is of old orators, Inter- spersed with voluptuous rases and bronaes, antique or Italian, and airy
statuettes in marble OX alabaster, of nude or seminiide Opera iivmphs. II never recall that princeh r u without fancying Chesterfield
ng In it a visit of his only child's mother while probably some
new favourite was shcllereil m the dim mysterious little boudoir
within which still remalni also In it i original blue damask and fretted gold-work, as described to Madame de I -Quarterly fievuw.
No. 152, p. 484.
HOLLAND HOUSE. 19
Lord Chesterfield, in his Letters to his Son, speaks of the Canonical pillars of his house, meaning the columns brought from Cannons, the seat of the Duke of Chandos. The grand staircase came from the same magnificent house. Observe. — Portrait of the poet Spenser ; Sir Thomas Lawrence's un- finished portrait of himself ; and a lantern of copper-gilt for 18 candles, bought by the Earl of Chesterfield at the sale at Houghton, the seat of Sir Robert Walpole. Stanhope-street, adjoining the house (also built by Lord Chesterfield), stands on ground belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. Lord Chesterfield died (1773) in this house, desiring by will that his remains might be buried in the next burying-place to the place where he should die, and that the expense of his funeral might not exceed 100Z. He was accordingly in- terred in Grosvenor Chapel, in South Audley-street, but his remains were afterwards removed to Shelford in Notting- hamshire.
HOLLAND HOUSE, Kensington, two miles from Hyde- Park-corner (during the life of the late Lord Holland, the meeting-place for Whig politicians, for poets, painters, critics, and scholars), was built in 1607 (John Thorpe, architect) for Sir Walter Cope, whose daughter and co-heir married Henry Rich (second son of Robert, Earl of Warwick), created by King James I., Baron Kensington and Earl of Holland, and. beheaded (1619) for services rendered to King Charles I. The widow of Robert Rich, Earl of Holland and Earl of Warwick, was married, in 1716, to Addison, the poet, and here, at Holland House, occurred that " awful scene," as Johnson has called it, with the Earl of Warwick, a young man of very irregular life and loose opinions. " I have sent for you," said Addison, " that you may see how a Christian can die ! " after which he spoke with difficulty, and soon expired. On the death, in 1759, of Edward Rich, the last Earl of Holland and Warwick, the house descended by females to William Edwardes, created Baron Kensington, and by him was sold to Henry Fox, first Baron Holland of that name, and father of Charles James Fox. Lord Holland died here, July 1st, 1774. During his last illness, George Selwyn called and left his card ; Selwyn had a fondness for seeing dead bodies, and the dying lord, fully comprehending his feeling, is said to have remarked, " If Mr. Selwyn calls again, show him up ; if I am alive I shall be delighted to sec him, and if I am dead he would like to see me." The late Lord Holland called on Lord Lansdowne a little before his death, and showed him an epitaph, composed by himself
c2
20 BATH HOUSE.
for himself. u Here lies Henry Vassal] Fox, Lord Holland, &c., who was drowned while sitting in Lis elbow-chair ; " he died in this house in his elbow-chair of water in the chest.
" It will be a great pity when this ancient house must come down, ami give way to rows and crescents. It is not that Holland House is fine as a building — on the contrary, it has a tumble-down look; and although decorated with the bastard-gothic of James I.'s time, the front is heavy. But it resembles many respectable matrons, who, having been abso- lutely ugly during youth, acquire by age an air of dignity. But one is chiefly affected by the air of deep seclusion which is spread around the domain." — Sir Walter Scott.
The stone gateway close to the house (on the east) was de- signed by Inigo Jones, and carved by Nicholas Stone, master- mason to James I. The raised terrace in front was made in 1847-48. William III. and his queen resided in Holland House while negotiating for the purchase of what is now Ken- sington Palace.
UXBFJDGE HOUSE, Burlington Gardens. The town- house of the Marquis of Anglesea (who led the English horse at the Battle of "Waterloo), built in 1792 by Vardy, (architect of Spencer House and of the Horse Guards), on the site of Queensbury House (built by Leoni, 1726), the London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Queensbury, who befriended Gay.
BATH HOUSE, Piccadilly, No. 82, corner of Bolton- street. The residence of Lord Ashburton, built by Alexander Baring, first Lord Ashburton (d. 1848), on the site of the old Bath House, the residence of the Pulteneys. Here is a noble collection of Works of Art, selected with great good taste, and at a great expense. Pictures of the Dutch and Flemish Schools form the main part of the collection.
Observe.— Tiiouwai.dsf.n's celebrated Mercury as the Slayer of Argus. "The transition from one action to another, as he ceases to play the Bute and takes the sword, is expressed with Incomparable animation.-' — FPoapea.— LXOKABDO DA Vinci (¥)'. the Infant Christ asleep in the arms of the Virgin; an Angel lilting the quill ttma the bed.- l.i an: Virgin and Child.- Cobksooio ff): st. Peter, Bt Margaret, Bt Hary
Magdalene, and Anthony of l'adua. GtlOBOIOHB ! a (iirl. with a very beautiful profile, lays one hand on the Bhonlder of her lover. — Titian: tho Daughter of Berodiaa with the head of Bt. John.— Paul Vuhi
Christ on tlio .Mount of olives a Cabinet picture). A \ sir. a i I < ai: <o <m :
the infant Christ asleep, and three Angels. — Doiubichhto : Moses before the Burning Bush<— Gussonro : Bt Bebastian moaned by two Angels (a cabinet picture).- Mubillo: Bt Thomas of Villa Nuera,ai a child, distributes alms among (bur Beggar-boys; the Madonna sur- rounded by Angels: the Virgin and child on clouds surrounded by three Angels; Chrisi looking np t<> Bearon.- Vblasqubz: ■ Btag Hunt — Rubknb: the Wolf Hunt -a celebrated picture painted in 1612. " Tlie fire of a fine dappled grey horse, which carries Rubens himself, Is
BURLINGTON HOUSE. 21
expressed with incomparable animation. Next him, on a brown horse, is his first wife, Caroline Brant, with a falcon on her hand." — Waagen. Rape of the Sabines ; reconciliation of tbe Romans and Sabines. " Both these sketches are admirably composed, and in every respect excellent ; few pictures of Rubens, even of his most finished works, give a higher idea of his genius." — air Joshua Reynolds. — Vandyck : the Virgin Mary, with the Child upon her lap, and Joseph seated in a land- scape looking at the dance of eight Angels ; Count Nassau in armour (three-quarter size) ; one of the Children of Charles I. with flowers (bust) ; Charles I. (full-length) ; Henrietta Maria (full-length).— Rem- brandt : Portrait of Himself at an advanced age ; Portrait of a middle- aged Man ; Lieven Von Coppenol (the celebrated writing-master) with a sheet of paper in his hand (very fine); two Portraits (Man and Wife). — G. Dow : a Hermit praying before a crucifix. " Of all Dow's pictures of this kind, this is carried the furthest in laborious execution." — Waagen. — Terburg : a Girl in a yellow jacket, with a lute. — G. Metzu: a Girl in a scarlet jacket. " In the soft bright manner of Metzu ; sweetly time to nature, and in the most perfect harmony."— Waagen. — Netscher : Boy leaning on the sill of a window, blowing bubbles. u Of the best time of the master." — Waagen. — A. Vaxderwerff : St. Mar- garet treading on the vanquished Dragon. — J ax Steen : an Alehouse, a composition of thirteen figures. "A real jewel." — Waagen. Playing at Skittles. — De Hooghe : a Street in Utrecht, a Woman and Child walking in the sunshine (very fine). — Texiers : the Seven Works of Mercy: the picture so celebrated by the name of La Manchot; Portrait of Himself (whole-length, in a black Spanish costume) ; Court Yard of a Village Alehouse ; a Landscape, with Cows and Sheep. — A. Ostade : (Several fine). — I. Ostade : Village Alehouse. — Paul Potter : Cows, &c, marked with his name and the date 1652 ; Oxen butting each other in play; the Church Steeple of Haarlem" at a distance.— A. Van- dervelde : the Hay Harvest ; Three Cows, &c. — Berghem : " Here we see what the master could do." — Waagen .— Karel du Jardix : a Water- mill. "One of the most charming pictures of the master." — Waagen. — Philip Wouvermaxs. — Cuyp. — Wynaxts. — Ruysdael.— Hobbema.— W. Vaxdervelde : "la petite Flotte." — Backhuysex. — Vaxder Hey- dex : Market-place of Henskirk, near Haarlem. — Van Huy-sam : Flower Pieces. — Holbeix : a Head. " The drawing very good ; admirably executed in the yellowish-brown tone of his earlier period." — Waagen — Sir Joshua Reyxolds : Head of Ariadne.
BURLINGTON HOUSE, Piccadilly, the residence of the Hon. Charles Cavendish, stands between Bond-street and Sackville-street, and is the second house that has stood in the same site. The first house so called was built by Boyle, Lord Burlington ; and the second and present house by his son, Richard Boyle, Lord Burlington, the architect. The walls and ceilings were painted for the Earl by Marco Ricci.
" Few in this vast city suspect, I believe, that behind an old brick wall in Piccadilly there is one of the finest pieces of architecture in Europe."— Sir William Chambers.
" As we have few samples of architecture more antique and imposing than that colonnade, I cannot help mentioning the effect it had on myself. I had not only never seen it, but had never heard of it, at least with any attention, when, soon after my return from Italy, I was invited to a ball at Burlington-house. As I passed under the gate by
22 HERTFORD HOUSE.
night, it could not strike me. At daybreak, looking ont of the windows to see the sun-rise, I was surprised with the vision of the colonnade that fronted me. It seemed one of those edifices in fairy-tales that are raised by genii in a night-time." — Horace Walpole.
Lord Burlington was born in 1695, and died in 1735, when the title became extinct, and Burlington House the property of the Dukes of Devonshire. The lease expired in 1809, and there was some talk of taking it down, when a renewal was obtained by Lord George Cavendish (afterwards Earl of Burlington), son of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, and grandson of the architect. A print by Hogarth, called " The Man of Taste, containing a view of Burlington Gate," repre- sents Kent on the summit in his threefold capacity of painter, sculptor, and architect, flourishing his palette and pencils over the heads of Ins astonished supporters, Michael Angelo and Raphael. On a scaffold, a little lower down, Pope stands, whitewashing the front, and while he makes the pilasters of the gateway clean, his wet brush bespatters the Duke of Chandos, who is passing by ; Lord Burlington serves the poet in the capacity of a labourer, and the date of the print is 1731. Kent was patronised by Lord Burlington. Handel lived for three years in this house.
" — Burlington's fair palace still remains, Beauty within — without, proportion reigns ; Beneath his eye declining art revives, The wall with animated pictures lives. There Handel strikes the strings, the melting strain Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein ; There oft I enter— but with cleaner shoes. For Burlington's beloved by every Muse."— Gay, Trivia.
The Duke of Portland, when Minister in tho reign of George III., resided in Burlington House.
HARCOURT HOUSE, Cavendish Square, west side, concealed by a high and dilapidated brick wall, the residence of Bentinck, Duke of Portland, father of the late Lord George Bentinck, one of tho richest of the English aristocracy. It was built by Lord Bingley, and originally called Bingley House.
HERTFORD HOUSE, Piccadilly, corner of Engiuc-st reet, built (1850-f>b by Richard Seymour Conway, Marquis of Hertford — the principal Btone-work in the facade having
funned part of tho old Pulteney Hotel, where the Emperor of Russia put up during the ineinorahlo visit of the allied sovereigns in 1814, and where tho Duchess of Oldcnburgh
SIR ROBERT PEEL'S. MR. HOPE'S. 23
(the Emperor Alexander's sister) introduced Prince Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. The gallery, 50 feet long, 25 feet wide, and 34 feet high, is immediately above the dining-room, and contains many purchases made by the Marquis from the finest portion of the gallery of the King of Holland. Observe. — The Water-Mill, the chef-d'oeuvre of Hobbema ; la Vierge de Pade, the masterpiece of Andrea del Sarto ; Por- trait of Philippe and Portrait of Madame le Roy, two noble specimens of Vandyck ; Holy Family, by Rubens, bought at Mr. Higginson's sale in 1846, for 2478J. ; the Unme»cjful Servant, by Rembrandt, from Stowe, cost 2300J.
HOUSE OF SIR ROBERT PEEL, in Privy Gardens, contains a very fine collection of Dutch, Flemish, and English pictures, formed by the late Sir Robert Peel, at great cost, and with extreme good taste. The collection ornaments the walls of rooms in the daily occupation of the family, and consequently cannot be very often shown to strangers. The Dutch and Flemish Pictures, some 72 in number, consist of 3 by Rembrandt ; 2 by Rubens (the well-known Chapeau de Paille, bought by Sir Robert Peel for 3500 guineas, and the Triumph of Silenus, bought for 1100Z.) ; 2 by Van Dyck, a Genoese Senator and his wife, bought at Genoa by Sir David Wilkie ; 7 by D. Teniers ;
2 by Isaac Ostade, one a Village Scene, very fine; 1 by Adrian Ostade; 1 by Jan Steen; 1 by Terburg ; 2 by G. Metzu ; 1 by F. Mieris ; 1 by W. Mieris ; 1 by G. Douw, the Poulterer's Shop, fine ; 3 by Cuyp, one an Old Castle, very fine ; 4 by Hobbema, one very fine, the ducks and geese by Wyntrank, and the figures by Lingelback ; 2 by De Hooghe ; one by Paul Potter; 3 by Ruysdael ; 2 by Backhuysen ; 1 by Berghem ; 1 by Gonzales Coques ; 3 by Karel du Jardin ; 6 by Wowermans ; 2 by Vander Heyden ;
3 by A. Yandervelde, one a Calm, very fine; 8 by W. Yander- velde ; 1 by F. Snyders ; 2 by Wynants ; 1 by Slingelandt ; 1 by Jan. Lingelback ; 1 by Moucheron and A. Yandervelde ; 3 by Gaspar Netscher. The late Sir Robert Peel died (1850) in the dining-room of this house — the room towards the river.
HOUSE OF HENRY THOMAS HOPE, Esq., M.P. In Piccadilly, at the corner of Down-street, built 184S-49, from the designs of M. Dusillon and Mr. Donaldson. The handsome iron railing in front was cast at Pai'is, by Mons. J. P. V. Andre. The cost of the whole building is said to have been 30,000£. Mr. Hope is the possessor of the celebrated collection of pictures (Dutch especially) formed at the Hague by the
24 MB. HOPE'fl.
family of the Hopes — and described by Sir Joshua Reynolds in his journey to Flauders and Holland in 1771. Observe : —
Va\ Pyck: The Assumption of the Virgin. i- A faint picture. She is surrounded by little angels ; one of them is peeping archly at you under a bundle of drapery, with which he has covered himself: this comiealness is a little out of its place." — Sir J. II. Charity. Virgin and Child. "A good but not important picture." — Waagen. — Rcbens : The Shipwreck of ^Eneas ; the clouds in Mr. Turner's manner. " Highly poetical in the design, and executed in a most masterly manner in a deep full tone." — Waagen. — Claude: Landscape. "An old very pretty copy of the fine picture in the Dresden Gallery." — Waagen.— S. Rosa : Land- scape.— I v.MF.Ni. hixo : St. Sebastian. — Giorgione: Judith with the Head of Holofernes. — Rembrandt: Young Woman in an Arm-chair by which a Man is standing. " One of the rare family portraits of this master in whole-length figures. — Waagen. — Backiuysen: Sea Piece with Ships. " A large and capital picture." — Sir J. It. — Nktscher : Lady at a Window with Parrot and Ape, marked 1664. — J ax Steen : An Oyster Feast, " in which is introduced an excellent figure of Old Mieris, standing with his hands behind him. "— Sir J. B. — Lairesse : Death of Cleopatra. " Her figure is well drawn, and in an attitude of great grace ; but the style is degraded by the naturalness of the white satin, which is thrown over her. A woman lies dead at the feet of the bed. This picture is as highly finished as a Vanderwerf, but in a much better style excepting the drapery, which is not equal to Vanderwerf. Van- derwerf painted what may be truly called drapery; this of Lairesse is not drapery, it is white satin." — Sir J. R. — Van der Helst: Halt of Travellers. "In Van der Heist's middle and best period."— Waagen. Rembrandt : Our Saviour in the Tempest. " In this picture there is a great effect of light, but it is carried to a degree of affectation." — Sir J. E. — Terrurg : The Music Lesson (fine) ; the Trumpeter (fine). — P. Mieris: A Gentleman with a Violin; a young Woman with her back turned is making out the reckoning, marked 1660. " This picture, painted when he was only twenty-six years of age, is one of his great master-pieces." — Waagen. — Metzu : Woman reading a Letter. "The milkwoman who brought it, is in the meantime drawing a curtain a little on one side, in order to see the picture under it, which appears to be a sea view." — Sir J. Ii. Woman writing a Letter.— Sciiai.kkx : Man reading by Candlelight. " A carefully executed picture ; the impasto particularly good." — Waagen. — Ruysdael : Landscape, Cattle and Figures. — VbbkOUE: David and Uathsheba. — A. Vandkrvei.de: Cattle at a Watering-place; an evening scene; a wonderful picture; perhaps the finest Adrian Vandervelde in the world. — P. de Hooge : An Interior, with Figures. " Spoiled by cleaning."— Waagen. — Wi urrx: A Dead Swan and Dead Hair. " Perfect every way; beyond Honde- koeter." — Sir J. B. — Vandbbwbbf: The incredulity of St Thomas. "The drapery of st. Thomas is excellent; the folds long-continued unite witli each other, and arc varied with great art." — SirJ.R. (On the Screen). — D. Tbhibbs : Soldiers playing a1 Backgammon.— Q. i>"\\ : " a Woman at a Window with a Hare in her Hand. Bright colouring ami well drawn: a dead cock, cabbage, and carrots lying before her.
The name of Gerard DOW is written on the lanthern which hangs on one
side."- — s'/Y J. B.—D. Tbnibbb: Soidi.rs Smoking.— P. Pottbb; Exte- rior of Stable— Cattle and Figures. — P. W < >i \> i;m\\>: Halt of Hawking Party (fine). — A. Ostait. : Exterior of Cottage witli figures. — HoB- i-.i m \ : Wood Scenery. Tbbbubo: Trumpeter waiting itinei.— Wor> rBBKAVs: Cavaliers and Ladies. Bagpiper, dec. "The best lever saw." — -Sir J. B. — Mbtcu : Lady in blue velvet tunic and white satin petti- coat.—Crvr: Cattle and a Shepherd. " The beat 1 ever saw of him ;
mr. rogers's. 25
and the figure likewise is better than usual ; tmt the employment which he has given the shepherd in his solitude is not very poetical." — Sir J. R. — P. Gyzexs : Dead Swan and small Birds. " Highly finished and well coloured." — Sir J. R.
Antiquities, Vases, &c. The antiques are, for the most part, unfor- tunately much disfigured by indifferent restorations, and there is much that was originally of little value. The vases consist of the second collection made by Sir William Hamilton at Naples ; and among them are several choice specimens.
Some of the pictures enumerated above have been removed, it is understood, to Deepdene, Mr. Hope's beautiful seat near Dorking, in Surrey. I have, however, in a work of this nature, preferred describing the best of every collection, recently in London. Mode of admission : by cards obtained on personal introduction from the owner, on Mondays throughout the London season — April to July.
HOUSE OF SAMUEL ROGERS, Esq., author of The Pleasures of Memory, is at No. 22, St. James's Place, looking on the Green Park.
"If you enter his [Rogers's] house— his drawing-room, his library, — you of yourself say, this is not the dwelling of a common mind. There is not a gem, a coin, a book thrown aside on his chimney-piece, his sofa, his table, that does not bespeak an almost fastidious elegance in the possessor." — Lord Byron s Journal.
Observe among Mr. Rogers's Pictures, &c,
The Coronation of the Virgin, from the Aldobrandini Palace (Ann. Caracci). — The Virgin and Child, with Six Saints (L. Caracci). — The Mill, a small octagon landscape, from B. West's collection (Claude). — Large Landscape, from the Orleans collection (Claude). — A Young Knight, a study of Armour (Giorgione). — A Head of Christ, from West's collection (Guido). — Sketch for the large piece of Mary Magdalen anointing the feet of the Saviour, in the Durazzo Palace at Genoa (Paul Veronese). — Two large Compositions (X. Poussin). — The Virgin and Child, from the Orleans, Hibbert and Hope collections (Raphael).— Christ on the Mount of Olives, from the Orleans collection (Raphael). — A little picture in the early manner of Raphael, one compartment of the predella to the Altar Piece, executed in 1505 for the Nuns of St. Anthony at Perugia. — The Miracle of St. Mark, sketch for the large picture in the Museum at Venice (Tintoretto). — Study for the large picture of the Apotheosis of Charles V., in the Museum at Madrid (Titian). — Infant Don Balthazar on Horseback (Velasquez). — Study in black chalk for one of the seated figures in the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel (Michael Angelo). —Three Original Drawings (Raphael).— Portrait of Hemmelinck by himself. — Virgin and Child; a small miniature painting (Hemmelinck). — Portrait of himself (Rembrandt). — Allegorical Sketch (Ditto).— Land- scape (Ditto).— Triumphal Procession after Andrea Mantegna (Rubens). — The Terrors of War, a study for the large picture in the Pitti Palace (Ditto).— Two Landscapes (Ditto).— A Landscape (Gainsborough). — A Landscape (R. Wilson) — Puck (Sir J. Reynolds).— The Strawberry Girl (Ditto). — The Sleeping Girl (Ditto).— A Girl with a Bird concealed in her hand (Ditto).— Cupid and Psyche (Ditto).— A Landscape ; View from his own house on Richmond Hill (Ditto). — A Frame, containing twelve Ancient Miniatures : Henry Lord Darnley, Queen Elizabeth, &c. — The
26 MR. SHEEPSHANKS's. — MR. MUXRO's.
basso relievos on each side of the drawing-room chimney-piece (Flaxman). —Cupid pouting, a small statue {Flaxman).— Psyche in a couching atti- tude(Flaxman). — Bust of Pope (Boubilinc). — Mahogany Table, earraa1 by Sir Francis Chantrey when Barring with a carver and gilder. — M. Angelo and Raphael, statuettes, executed for Sir Thomas Lawrence (Flaxman). — Cabinet, with the designs of Stothard : Canterbury Pilgri- mage, Garden of Boccacio, &c. — Milton's assignment of the copyright of Paradise Lost to Simmouds, the bookseller, for 15L — Dryden's agreement with Tonson for his translation of Virgil, witnessed by Congreve (the original). Mode of Admission.— A letter of introduction (the only mode).
HOUSE OF JOHN SHEEPSHANKS, Esq. The large detached house (the last on the S.W. side of Rutland Gate, Hyde Park) was built by John Sheepshanks, Esq., a distinguished patron of British art, who has here assembled a choice and valuable collection of pictures by modern British artists. The works of Leslie, R.A., and Mulready, R.A., can nowhere be studied to greater advan- tage. Observe. — Highland Drovers, The Shepherd's Chief Mourner, Jack in Office, The Breakfast — all by Sir E. Land- seer ; Duncan Gray, and The Broken Jar, by Sir D. Wilkie ; Choosing the Wedding Gown, The Butt, Giving a Bite, First Love — all by Mr. Mulready, R A. ; Scene from the Merry Wives of Windsor, Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman, both by C. R. Leslie, R.A. Mode of Admission. — A letter of intro- duction (the only mode).
HOUSE OF BARON LIONEL ROTHSCHILD, Picca- dilly, contains a few fine pictures : good specimen of Cuyp, "Skating;" a choice De Hooge, a good (Inuze. Head of a Girl, and The Pinch of Snuff, an early work of Wtikie; with a noble collection of hanaps, cups, &c, of fourteenth and fif- teenth century work ; rare old china, fine carvings in ivory, &c.
HOUSE OF R. S. HOLFORD, Park Lane, Hyde Park. Mr. Holford'a house is not yet completed, but his pictures are to be seen at No. G5, Rusaellrsquare. Observe. — Very fine specimen of 1/obbema ; View of Dort from the River, by Cuyp, very fine; good examples of Claude, Both. Isaac (madt, fee. Mr. Holford ii a retired Russian merchant* and his country houso is at Wcstoiibirt. Tetbury, Gloucestershire.
HOUSE OF H. A. J. MUNRO, ESQ., Hamii ton I'i u- < u'iii.y. last house on right-hand side Oteree. The Lucca afadonna and Child, by Raphael; BL Efttnoii Praying a small picture by Fifyppo Li)>i>i ; Landscape by <<'«*}>«>- routtin,
fine; Les Deux Petitea SUUrquiseB, half-lengths, size of lite,
HYDE PARK. 27
by Watteau, very fine ; characteristic specimens of Jan Stem, one " After a Repast," very clever ; also, good, if not choice, specimens of Cuyp, Vandervelde, Backhuysen, &c. Mrs. Stan- hope, half-length, in white, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, very fine; 5 fine Landscapes, by Richard Wilson; large View in Venice, the masterpiece of Bonington ; The Fishmarket, by Bonington ; The Good Samaritan, by Etty, a choice specimen; 2 fine Italian Landscapes, by Turner, in the best time of his second period. (See Hints and Suggestions, p. xxxix.)
PARKS AND PUBLIC GARDENS.
HYDE PARK. A park of 387 acres, containing the Great Exhibition or Crystal Palace, and deservedly looked upon as one of the lungs of London, connecting the Green Park with Kensington Gardens, and thus carrying a con- tinuous tract of open ground, or park, from Whitehall, to Kensington. The whole Park is intersected with well-kept footpaths, and the carriage drives are spacious and well at- tended. The Park is accessible for private carriages, but hackney-coaches and cabs are excluded. The triple archway at Hyde-Park-corner, combined with an iron screen, was erected in 1828 from the designs of Decimus Burton. It cost 17,069?. Is. 9\d., including 1,000Z. to Mr. Henning for the bas-reliefs from the Elgin marbles which surround it. The Park derives its name from the Hyde, an ancient manor of that name adjoining Knightsbridge, and, until the dissolution of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIII., the property of the abbots and monks of Westminster.
In this Park, in the London season, from April to July (between half past 5 and half past 6 p.m.), may be seen ah", the wealth and fashion and splendid equipages of the nobility and gentry of Great Britain. The bridle-road, running east and west of the Industrial Exhibition, is called Rotten Row, a corruption it is supposed of Route du Roi — King's Drive, and the sheet of water called the Serpentine was formed by Caroline, Queen of George II. The boats may be hired by the hour. Certain traces of the Ring, formed in the reign of Charles I. and long celebrated, may be recognised by the large trees somewhat circularly arranged in the centre of the Park. Near the Humane Society's Receiving-house (on the north bank of the Serpentine) is the great government store of gunpowder. In this house alone upwards of one million
28 st. james's tark.
rounds of ball and blank ammunition arc kept ready for immediate use. A review of troops in Hyde Park is a sight worth seeing, but reviews of late years have been of very rare occurrence. They usually take place in June or July. Observe. — Statue of Achilla, "inscribed by the women of England, to Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave com- panions in arms," erected in Hyde Park, as the inscription sets forth, "on the 18th of June, 1822, by command of his Majesty George IV." The statue was cast by Sir K. \\Y i macott, R. A., from cannon taken in the victories of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, and the cost was defrayed by a subscription of 10,000?., raised among the ladies. The figure is copied from one of the famous antiques on the Monte Oavallo, at Rome, but most antiquaries agree that Achilles is a gross misnomer. The Marble Arch, facing Great Cumberland-street (near where Tyburn formerly stood), was moved from Buckingham Palace in 1850 and erected here in 1851. The original cost was 80,000/., and the cost of removal 11,0007. The equestrian statue of George IV., now in Trafalgar-square, was intended for the top of this arch. S. front of arch by Baily ; N. by Sir R. Westmacott.
ST. JAMES'S PARK. A park of 83 acres (shaped not unlike a boy's kite), originally appertaining to the Palace of St. James's; first formed and walled in by Henry VIII. ; re- planted and beautified by Charles II.; and finally arranged bj George IV., much as we now see it, in 1827-28-29. What I shall call the head of the kite is bordered by three of the principal public offices: the Horse Guards in the centre, the Admiralty on its right, and the Treasury 0O Ltfl hit. The tail of the kite is occupied by Buckingham Palace : its north side by the Green Park. Ktaif'ord House, St. James's Palace. Marlborough House, Carlton-House-terrace, and Carlton Ride; and its right or south side by Queen-square, and the Wellington Barracks for part of the Household Troops, erected in 1834. The gravelled space in front of the Horse Guards is called the Parade, and formed a pari of the Tilt Yard <>f Whitehall : the north side is railed the Mall, and the
south the Birdcage-walk. Milton lived in a house in Petty Prance, with a garden roacihuig into the Birdcage-walk, Nell
( Jwyn in Pall Mall, with a garden with a mOUnd and terrace at the end, overlooking the Mall : and Lord Chancellor J cileries, in the large brick house north of Storey's Qate, with ■ flight of stone steps into the Park. This celebrated Park, with
its broad gravel walks and winding sheet Of Water, was, till the time of Charles II., little more than a gram park,
■ * Is a* ^ •
HYDE PA UK.
30 GREEN rARK.
with a few trees irregularly planted, and a number of little ponds. Charles II. threw the several ponds (Rosamond's Pond excepted) into one artificial canal, built a decoy for ducks, a small ringfence for deer, planted trees in even ranks, and introduced broad gravel walks in place of narrow and winding footpaths. Charles I., attended by Bishop Juxon and a regiment of foot (part before and part behind him), walked, Jan. 30th, 1648-49, through this Park from St. James's Palace to the scaffold at "Whitehall. He is said on his way to have pointed out a tree near Spring Gardens, as planted by his brother Prince Henry. Here Cromwell took Whitelocke aside and sounded the Memorialist on the subject of a King Oliver. Some of the trees in this Park, planted and watered by King Charles II. himself, were acorns from the royal oak at Boscobel; none, however, are now to be seen. St. Evremont, a French Epicurean wit, was keeper of the ducks in St. James's Park in the reign of Charles II.
Observe. — Fronting the Horse Guards, the mortar cast at Seville, by order of Napoleon, employed by Soult at Cadiz, and left behind in the retreat of the French army after the battle of Salamanca. It was presented to the Prince Regent by the Spanish government. I have been informed by an officer of the Royal Engineers (often fired upon by this very mortar) that the heaviest shell it carried weighed about 108 lbs., and that its extreme range was 6220 yards. The same officer added, that he had seen a shell from this piece of ordnance range into Cadiz, when the whole of that splendid square, the Plaza de San Antonio, was crowded with the rank and fashion of the place, and fall most accu- rately in the centre of the square without injuring a single individual. The ducks in the park belong to the Ornitho- logical Society. In January, 1846, the collection contained upwards of 300 birds, including 21 species and 51 distinct varieties. The Park was lighted with gas in 1822. The road connecting St. James's Park with Hyde Park, and skirting the garden wall of Buckingham Palace, now called Constitution Bill, was long known as u The King's Coach- way to Kensington." It was in the upper end of this road that Sir Robert Peel was thrown (1850) from his horse and killed In this road Queen Victoria has been fired at by three idiots on thrco several occasions.
QREBN PARK. An open ana of 71 acres between
Piccadilly and St. James's Park, Constitution-hill, and the
houses of Arlington-street and St. James's -place. It was occa- sionally called Upper St. James's Park, and was once much
River Thames.
Ap6ley House- ^ Hyde Pork Corner. ST. JAMES'S PARK AND ITS VICINITY.
32 regent's park.
larger, George III. reducing it in 1767, to enlarge the gardens of old Buckingham House. The Green Park owes much of its present beauty to the taste and activity of Lord Duncannon (the late Earl of Bessborough), when chief Commissioner of the Woods and Forests, during the Grey and Melbourne administrations. Observe. — On the E. side of the Park, Stafford House, the residence of the Duke of Sutherland ; Bridgeicater House, the residence of the Earl of Ellesmere ; Spencer House, the residence of Earl Spencer ; the brick house with five windows, built in 1747, by Flitcroft, for the cele- brated Lady Hervey; 22, St. James's-place (next a narrow opening), distinguished by bow windows and a pink blind, the residence of the Poet Rogers ; Earl of YarborougKs, in Arlington-street, built by Kent, for Henry Pelhain. The small gardens attached to the houses belong to the Crown, but are let on lease to the owners of the houses. In tins park, fronting the house in Arlington-street, was fought the duel with swords, between Mr. Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, and John, Lord Hervey, the Fanny of the poet Pope.
REGENT'S PARK, a park of 403 acres, part of old Mary- lebone Park, for a long time disparked, and familiarly known as Marylebone Farm and Fields. The present Park was laid out in 1812, from the plans of Mr. John Nash, Architect, who designed all the terraces except Cornwall-terrace, which was designed by Mr. Decimus Burton. The Park derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., who intended building a residence here on the N.E. side of the Park. Part of Regent-street was actually designed as a communication from the Prince's residence to Carlton House, St. James's Palace, &c. The Crown property comprises, besides the Park, the upper part of Portland-place, from No. 8, — the Park- crescent and square, Albany, Osnaburgh, and the adjoining cross streets, York and Cumberland-squares, Regent's- Park- basin and Augustus-street, Park- villages E. and W., and the outer road. The Zoological Gardens occupy a large portion of the upper end of the Park. The Holme, a villa in the centre of the Park, so called, was erected by Mr. William Burton, architect, who covered with houses the Foundling Hospital and Skinner estates ; and erected York and Corn- wajpterraces, in this Park. Through the midst of the Park, on a bine with Portland-place and along the EL sido of the Zoological Gardens, runs a fine broad avenue lined with trees, and from which footpaths ramify across the sward m a^ directions, interspersed with ornamental planta- tions • l^d out m 1833, and opened to the public in
St. Katherine'a Hospital.
p To Great festern Railway,
to City.
REGENT'S PARK.
34 GREENWICH PARK.
1838. Around the Park runs an agreeable drive nearly two miles long. Au inner drive, in the form of a circle, encloses the Botanic Gardens. Contiguous to the inner circle is St. John's Lodge, seat of Baron Sir Isaac Lyon Goldsmid, overlooking a beautiful sheet of water, close to which is the garden of the Toxopholite Society. On the outer road is the villa of James Holford, Esq. St. Dunstan's Villa, somewhat S. of Mr. Holford's, was erected by Decimus Burton for the late Marquis of Hertford. In its gardens are placed the identical clock and automaton strikers which once adorned St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet-street. When old St. Dunstan's was pulled down the giants were put up to auction, and the marquis became their purchaser. They still do duty in striking the hours and quarters. In the chapel of St. Kathe- rine's Hospital, on the E. side of the Park, is the tomb of John Holland, Duke of Exeter (d. 1447), and his two wives; and a pulpit of wood, the gift of Sir Julius Caesar ; both re- moved, in 1827, from St. Katherine's at the Tower.
VICTOEIA PARK, Bethnal Green, a park of 160 acres, planted and laid out in the reign of the Sovereign whose name it bears. The first cost of formation was covered by the purchase-money received from the Duke of Sutherland, to whom the remainder of the Crown lease of York House, St. James's, was sold in 1841 for 72,000Z. It is bounded on the S. by Sir George Duckett's canal (sometimes called the Lea Union Canal) ; on the W. by the Regent's Canal ; on the E. by Old Ford-lane, leading from Old Ford to Hackney Wick ; and on the N. by an irregular line of fields. It serves as a lung for the N.E. part of London, and has already added to the health of the inhabitants of Spitalfields and Bethnal-green. The leases of building ground surrounding the Park have been delayed till the roads and walks become more perfect, and the plantations in a more advanced state.
BATTERSEA PARK, a government Park on the banks of the Thames, over against Chelsea Hospital ; formed at a cost of 200,000Z., pursuant to 9 and 10 Vic, c. 38.
GREENWICH PARK, a park of 174 acres, extending from the high ground of Blackheath down to the Thames at Greenwich Hospital, agreeably diversified with hill and dale, and from " One Tree Hill " and another eminence on which the Royal Observatory is erected, commanding a noble view of London and the river Thames. The Observatory was established in the reign of Charles II., and Flamstead, Halley, and Brat; ^y, wore the first three Astronomers Royal. The
KENSINGTON GARDENS. 35
older portion of the building was erected from the designs of Sir Christopher Wren. The lower portion of the tower is the residence of Mr. Airy, the present Astronomer Royal. "Greenwich Time," celebrated over the whole world, is marked every day at 1 o'clock, by the dropping of the Time Ball — a black ball about six feet in diameter surmounting the eastmost turret of the old building. There is no admission to the Observatory for strangers, visitors, &c, — the Astronomical, Magnetical, and Meteorological observations conducted in the several rooms requiring silence and retirement. The salary of the Astronomer Royal is 8001. a year, and the whole Observatory is maintained at the expense of about 4000Z. a year. A trip down the river to Greenwich, a visit to Greenwich Hospital, a stroll in Greenwich Park, and a dinner after at the Trafalgar Hotel or the Crown and Sceptre, will be found a delightful way of passing an afternoon, from 1, of a fine summer's day, till it is time to return home for bed in the cool of the evening. This beautiful Park — the Park of the Royal manor of Greenwich — was planted, much as we now see it, in the reign of Charles II. Le Notre, it is said, was the artist employed ; but his name does not occur in the accounts for the plantations made by Charles II.
RICHMOND PARK, 9 miles from London, and 1 from the Station of the Richmond Railway: — the Park of the Royal manor of Richmond, owing much of its present beauty to King Charles I. and King George II. The principal entrance is close to the Star and Garter Inn. Be sure and enter by this gate, keeping to the right (as you enter) for about half a mile past Pembroke Lodge, the residence of Lord John Russell. The view begins a few yards within the gate, is stopped by the inclosure of Pembroke Lodge ; but soon Re- appears. The view overlooking the Thames is not to be surpassed. An afternoon at Richmond and Twickenham, and a dinner afterwards in the Coffee Room of the Star and Garter, will make a capital pendant to an afternoon at Greenwich.
KENSINGTON GARDENS. Pleasure-grounds attached to Kensington Palace, and open to the public, but not to be traversed by carriages. They are much resorted to by equestrians ; and, till 1851, by children and nursemaids, seeking air and exercise. The stranger in London should, during the London season, make a point of visiting these Gardens, between 5 and 6 p.m. on certain week days, when the band plays. The Gardens are then filled with gaily dressed promenaders, and the German will be reminded of
D 2
36 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
the scene in the Prater. The days are not fixed, but every information about them may be obtained of any of the lodge- keepers at Hyde Park or Kensington Gardens. The band belongs to the regiment stationed at the Knightsbridge bar- racks, and is either the Horse Guards' or the Life Guards' band. Kensington Gardens were laid out in the reign of William III., by London and Wise, and originally consisted of only 26 acres; Queen Anne added 30 acres, under Bridge- man's superintendence, and Caroline (Queen of George II.) 300 under the care of Kent. The Serpentine was formed 1730-33; and the bridge over it, separating the Gardens from Hyde Park, was designed by Rennie, and erected 1826.
KEW BOTANICAL GARDENS, 5 miles from Hyde Park Corner, on the road to Richmond. The gardens have been laid out under the direction of Sir W. Jackson Hooker, the Botanist. The best way of reaching Kew is by one of the White Richmond or red-coloured Kew Bridge omnibuses that leave Piccadilly every quarter of an hour — fare Is. ; and the best account of the Gardens is Sir W. Hooker's own little Handbook, to be purchased at the Gardens, price 6d. The entrance is on Kew Green, by very handsome gates, designed by Decimus Burton. Visitors are obliged to leave baskets and parcels with the porter at the gate. The Palm House, the leading attraction of the Gardens, is 362 feet long, 100 feet wide, 64 feet high, and cost nearly 30,000Z. Here, too, the Victoria Regia may be seen.
Among the hothouses — that devoted to Cactuses is alone worth going 5 miles to see. Here are specimens whose thickness exceeds that of the body of a man — brought 700 miles from the interior of South America.
Che Botanical Museum, formed by Sir W. Hooker, is filled with vegetable objects, most instructive and interesting. The Gardens are beautifully kept, prettily laid out, and most creditable to the present director. In short, London and its neighbourhood affords no more pleasing sight. The Gardens are open daily. (See Hints and Suggestions, p. xlvii.) Gentlemen requiring good gardeners can occasionally obtain them here; the Royal Gardens at Kew forming a kind of horticultural college, to which even foreign gardeners are constantly seeking to be admitted. The salary of the Director is 800?. a year.
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, or The New Palace at Westminster, on the left bank of the Thames, between
GROUND PLAN OF THE NEW HOUSES OP PARLIAMENT.
HOUSES OY PARLIAMENT. 'Si
the river and Westminster Abbey. This is one of the most magnificent buildings ever erected continuously in Europe — probably the largest Gothic edifice in the world. It occupies the site of the old Royal Palace at Westminster, burnt down Oct. 16th, 1834, and covers an area of nearly 8. acres. The architect is Charles Barry, R.A., and the first stone was laid April 27th, 1840. In its style and character the building reminds us of those magnificent civic palaces, the town-halls of the Low Countries, — at Ypres, Ghent, Louvain, and Brussels, — and a similarity in its destination renders the adoption of that style more appropriate than any form of classic architecture. The stone employed for the ex- ternal masonry is a magnesian limestone from Anston in Yorkshire, selected with great care from the building stones of England by commissioners appointed in 1839 for that purpose. The River Terrace is of Aberdeen granite. There is very little wood about the building ; all the main beams and joists are of iron; and the Houses of Parliament, it is said, can never be burnt down again. The E., or the River Front, may be considered the principal. This magni- ficent facade, 900 feet in length, is divided into five principal compartments, panelled with tracery, and decorated with rows of statues and shields of arms of the Kings and Queens of England, from the Conquest to the present time. The W. or Land Front is as yet in an imperfect state, but will, it is believed, surpass in beauty and picturesqueness any of the others, though, from the nature of the ground, it will not be in an uninterrupted line. A new facade is to replace the Law Courts, but is not yet commenced.
The Royal or Victoria Tower, at the S.-W. angle, one of the most stupendous works of the kind ever conceived, contains the Royal Entrance, is 75 feet square, and will rise to the im- mense height of 340 feet, or 64 feet less than the height of the cross of St. Paul's. The entrance archway of this noble struc- ture is 65 feet in height, and is covered with a rich and beauti- fully worked groined stone vault, while the interior is deco- rated with the statues of the patron saints of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and with a statue of her present Maj esty, supported on either side by figures emblematical of Justice and Mercy. This stately tower (supplying what Wren considered West- minster was so much in need of) will not be finished till the building is very near completion, the architect considering it of importance that the works should not proceed, on account of its great height and the danger of settlements, at a greater rate than 30 feet a-year. The Central Tower, 60 feet in diameter, and 300 feet high to the top of the lantern surmounting it,
38 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
rises above the Grand Central Octagonal Hall, which reminds one of the glorious Chapter Houses attached to our English Cathedrals, but exceeds them in size ; and its exquisitely- groined stone vault is supported without a central pillar. The Clock Tower, abutting on Westminster Bridge, is 40 feet square, and surmounted above the clock with a richly decorated belfry spire, rising to a height of about 320 feet. Various other subordinate towers break the line of the roofs, and by their picturesque forms and positions add materially to the effect of the whole building.
The Westminster Bridge end contains the apartments of the Speaker and the Serjeant-at-arms, and the Vauxhall Bridge end the apartments of the Usher of the Black Bod and the Lords' librarian. Above these a long range of rooms has been appropriated to Committees of either House. The statues in and about the building will exceed in number 450.
The principal public Entrances are through Westminster Hall, from Old Palace Yard, and both lead into the Central Octagon Hall, whence the right-hand passage will take you to the Lords, and the left to the Commons. This magni- ficent hall is covered with a groined roof, containing upwards of 250 elaborately carved bosses. Westminster Hall, together with the ancient cloisters (now augmented by an upper story and stair — a gem of florid Gothic architecture) and crypt of St. Stephen's (the only remains of the ancient Palace), have been skilfully incorporated into the new building. Westminster Mall has been some- what altered in detail internally, to make it accord more with the style of the rest of the building. The archi- tect has planned that the walls, below the windows, should be decorated with a series of historical paintings, and that there should be two tiers of pedestals, to be occupied by figures of those eminent Englishmen to whom Parliament may decree the honour of a statue. The conception is grand, and appropriate to the building in which so many English- men have been distinguished.
The Royal Entrance is under the Victoria Tower, and leads to the Norman Porch, so called from the frescoes illustrative of the Norman history of this country and the figures of the Norman Kings, with which it is proposed to be decorated.
On the right hand is the Robing Room, a spacious apartment in the south front of the building, intended to be fitted up with much magnificence. After the ceremony of robing, which takes place in this room, her Majesty will pass through a magnificent chamber 110 feet in length, 45 in width, and 45 feet high, called the Royal Gallery, decorated with frescoes illustrative of events from the history of England, with
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 3(J
windows filled with stained glass, and a ceiling rich in gilding and heraldry. Passing thence, her Majesty will enter the Prince's Chamber, decorated with equal splendour, and thence into the House of Peers, 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 high, a noble room, presenting a coup oVozil of the utmost magni- ficence, no expense having been spared to make it one of the richest chambers in the world. The spectator is hardly aware, however, of the lavish richness of its fittings from the masterly way in which all are harmoniously blended, each detail, however beautiful and intricate in itself, bearing only its due part in the general effect. Observe, in this noble apartment, opened for the first time, April 15th, 1847.— The Throne, on which her Majesty sits when she attends the House, with the chairs for the Prince of Wales and Prince Albert ; the Woolsack, in the centre of the House, on which the Lord Chancellor sits ; the Eeporters' Gallery (facing the Throne) ; the Strangers' Gallery (immediately above) ; the Frescoes (the first, on a large scale, executed in this country), in the six compartments, three at either end, viz., .The Baptism of Ethelbert, by Mr. Dyce, RA. (over the Throne) ; Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince, and Henry, Prince of Wales, committed to prison for assaulting Judge Gascoigne, both by Mr. Cope, R.A. ; the Spirit of Religion, by Mr. Horsley, in the centre compartment, over the Strangers' Gallery ; and the Spirit of Chivalry, and the Spirit of Law, both Mr. Maclise, R.A. The 12 windows are filled with stained glass, made by Messrs. Ballantyne and Allan, of Edinburgh, and Mr. Hardman, of Birmingham, and are lighted at night from the outside. Be- tween the windows, and at either end of the House, are 18 niches, for statues of the Magna Charta barons, carved by Mr. Thomas, the able sculptor of the whole of the statues throughout the building. Immediately beneath the windows runs a light and elegant gallery of brass work, filled in compartments with coloured mastic, in imitation of enamel. On the soffits of the gallery (or cornice immediately beneath the gallery) are the arms of the Sovereigns and Chancellors of England, from Edward III. to the present time.
Those strangers who have interest to procure an order should endeavour to be present in the House of Lords when her Majesty in person opens, prorogues, or dissolves Parlia- ment. The opening of Parliament is generally in February, the prorogation or dissolution generally in July. To obtain a good seat you should be in the House of Lords by half- past 12. The arrival of her Majesty may be heard within the House from the booming of the cannon. The Speech is pre- sented to her Majesty by the Lord Chancellor kneeling, and
40 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
is read by her Majesty. The return to Buckingham Palace is by 3 at the latest. The address to her Majesty in both Houses is moved at 5 the same evening ; and the debate, therefore, is always looked to with great interest. The old custom of examining the cellars underneath the House of Lords, about two hours before her Majesty's arrival, still continues to be observe d. The custom had its origin in the famous Gunpowder Plot of 1605. The examination is made by the Lord Great Chamberlain and the Usher of the Black Eod, with a detachment of the yeomen of the guard.
The House of Commons, 62 feet long by 45 feet broad, and 45 feet high is more simple in character than the House of Peers ; — the ceiling is, however, of nearly equal beauty. The windows are filled with stained glass, of a simple charac- ter, to subdue an excessive glare ; the walls are lined with oak richly carved, and, supported on carved shafts and brackets, is a gallery extending along them, on either side. At the N. end is the chair for the Speaker, over which is a gallery for visitors, and for the reporters of the debates; while the S. end is occupied by deep galleries for the Members of the House, and for the public. The Entrance for the Members is either by the public approaches, or a private door and staircase from the Star Chamber Court (one of the twelve Courts lighting the interior), so called from occupying the site of that once dreaded tribunal. England and Wales return 498 members, Ireland 105, and Scotland 53, making in all 656 members, composing the House of Commons.
St. Stephen's Hall, 95 feet long by 30 wide, and to the apex of the stone groining 56 feet high, derives its name from occupying the same space as St. Stephen's Chapel of the ancient Palace. The crypt of St. Stephen's, which has been mutilated more by abuse than by the fire, still exists beneath, and, as a most interesting example of English architecture of the thirteenth century, is undergoing a careful restoi'ation. This well-proportioned Hall will be decorated, on the walls below the windows, with frescoes, and the .windows will be filled with stained glass. The Palace Clock in the Clock Tower, constructed under the direction and approval of Mr. Airy, the Astronomer Royal, will be an eight-day clock, and will strike the hours on a bell weighing from eight to ten tons, chime the quarters upon eight bells, and show the time upon four dials about 30 feet in diameter. The diameter of the dial at St. Paul's is only 1 8 feet. The entire cost of this vast and splendid building will, probably, not fall short of a million and a half, nor will it be completed, it is thought, before 1856.
The Upper Waiting Hall, or Poets' Hall, will contain 8 frescoes from 8 British poets — viz., Chaucer, Spenser, Shaks-
THE THAMES. 41
peare, Milton, Dryden, Pope, Scott, and Byron. Four have been completed. The Chaucer, by C. W. Cope, R. A., repre- senting a scene from Griselda; the Shakspeare, by /. R. Herbert, R.A ., Lear and his Daughter ; the Milton, by /. C. Horsley, Satan starting at the touch of Ithuriel's Spear ; and the Dryden, by John Tenniel, St. Cecilia. The artists for the other poets have not as yet been named. The Queens Robing-Room will contain the Legend of King Arthur, in fresco, by W. Dyce, R.A. The Peers' Robing-Rooni "Justice on Earth and its Development in Law and Justice," by /. R. Herbert, R. A. ; and the Peers' Corridor, " Charles I. erecting his Standard at Nottingham," by F. R.Pickersgill, A .R.A . ; and "Speaker Lent- hall asserting the Privilege of the Commons, when Charles I. attempted to seize the five members," by Mr. Cross.
31 ode of Admission to Inspect the House of Lords — order from the Lord Great Chamberlain, or the personal introduc- tion of a peer whilst the House is not sitting. The orders are available only [see Introduction]. Mode of admission to the Strangers' Gallery to hear the debates — a peer's order. When occupied in the hearing of appeal cases the House is open to the public. Mode of Admission to the Commons — a member's order. Any member can give an order. If you know an M.P., go to the lobby with the member's name written on your card; at the door of the House you will see a good-tempered old gentleman, with a powdered head, sitting in a watch-box. If you civilly ask him, he will send your card into the House, and thus fetch out the member you have named. Take care to keep free from the thoroughfare to the door, or you will be warned oft by a policeman. You must take your seat before 5. On the night of an interesting debate the House is seldom over before 2 o'clock in the morning. At every division the Strangers' Gallery is cleared, and a fresh struggle for a seat takes place upon re-admission. Three or four divisions may take place in one night. Ladies have been excluded from the Strangers' Gallery since 1738. The Speaker takes the chair at 5 p.m., when prayers are read, and business then commences. The House of Commons empties at 7 p.m., and refills about 9 p.m.
THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES; THAMES TUNNEL, POOL AND PORT OF LONDON.
The Thames, on whose banks London is situated, is the noblest commercial river in the world ; above, below, and at London,
42 THE THAMES.
it is, however, little more than a common sewer, oscillating with the tide ; about Richmond and Twickenham, it is a sweet flowing stream; still higher up, about Pangbourne (where you may catch some pleasing glimpses of it from the Great Western Railway), it is pastoral and pretty; and at the Nore and Sheerness, where the Med way joins it, it is an estuary where the British navy may sail, or ride safely at anchor. The Thames rises in Gloucestershire, and passing Oxford, Windsor, Hampton Court, Twickenham, Richmond, Fulham, Chelsea, London, and Greenwich, falls into the English Channel at a distance of 60 miles from London. At very high tides, and after long easterly winds, the water at London Bridge is very often brackish. Spenser calls it " The silver-streaming Thames." Denham has sung its praises in some noble couplets —
u O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream My great example, as it is my theme ! Though deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull, Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
Sir John Dtnham.
And Pope described its banks with the accuracy of a Dutch painter in his ludicrous imitation of Spenser's manner.
The bridges were built or opened to the public in the following order : — old London Bridge, 1209 ; Westminster Bridge, 1750; Blackfriars Bridge, 1769; Vauxhall Bridge, 1816; Waterloo Bridge, 1817; Southwark Bridge, 1819; new London Bridge, 1831 ; and Hungerford Suspension Bridge, 1845. The Thames Tunnel was opened, 1843. The first steamboat seen on the Thames was in 1816. The distance between Richmond Bridge and Westminster Bridge (14 miles 3 furlongs) was rowed with tide, July 31st, 1848, by a Mr. Clayton, in one hour forty-three minutes and forty -five seconds. His bet was to row the distance in one hour and fifty minutes.
The London visitor should make a point of descending the Thames by a steamboat from Chelsea to Blackwall (the work of an hour and a half), and of observing the following places, principally on the left or Middlesex bank : — (1.), Chelsea Old Church ; Chelsea Hospital ; Vauxhall Bridge ; (rt.), Peni- tentiary ; (1.), Lambeth Palace ; (rt.), church of St. John's, Westminster, and Houses of Parliament ; Westminster Bridge ; (1.), Board of Control ; Montague House ; Sir Robert Peel's house in Privy-gardens (distinguished by its bay windows ; the late Sir Robert Peel died in the dining- room of this house — the ground-floor facing the river); (1.), Whitehall-stairs; the Great Coal Dep6t at Scotland-yard;
THE THAMES. 43
Hungerford Suspension Bridge ; (1.), York Watergate, one of Inigo Jones's finest works ; the Adelphi Terrace (David Garrick died in the centre house) ; Waterloo Bridge ; (1.), Somerset House ; Temple-gardens, and roof of Middle Temple Hall ; St. Bride's Church (the steeple one of Wren's great works) ; (1.), Whitefriars, the site of Alsatia, now partly- occupied by enormous gas-works ; Blackfriars Bridge ; here you have a very fine view of St. Paul's, and the city churches: Observe how grandly Bow steeple, with its dragon on the top, towers above them all, and commands attention by the har- mony of its proportions ; South wark Bridge ; here the right or Surrey side, commonly called the Bankside, becomes interesting from its fine associations — here stood the Globe Theatre, the Bear Garden, and Winchester House, and (rt.) here is the church of St. Saviour's, Southwark. You now pass under London Bridge, and should observe, (1.), the steeple of St. Magnus and the Monument. Here begins the Pool. Observe. — (1.), Traitors' Gate and the White Tower; St. Katherine's Docks ; (rt.), Rotherhithe Church ; here you pass over the Thames Tunnel ; (rt.), Greenwich Hospital, one of Wren's great masterpieces; the Observatory at Greenwich; Blackwall Reach, &c.
" The morning was fair and bright, and we had a passage thither [from London to Gravesend] I think as pleasant as can be conceived ; for take it with all its advantages, particularly the number of fine ships you are always sure of seeing by the way, there is nothing to equal it in all the rivers of the world. The yards of Deptford and Woolwich are noble sights. . . . We saw likewise several Indiamen just returned from their voyage. . . . The colliers likewise, which are very numerous and even assemble in fleets, are ships of great bulk ; and if we descend to those used in the American, African, and European trades, and pass through those which visit our own coasts, to the small craft that lie between Chatham and the Tower, the whole forms a most pleasing object to the eye, as well as highly warming to the heart of an Englishman, who has any degree of love for his country, or can recognise any effect of the patriot in his constitution." — Fidding, A Voyage to Lisbon.
It is much to be wished that the side sewer and terrace embankment scheme (so long talked about, and first pro- jected by John Martin, the painter) may be carried out before many years are over. By narrowing the current we shall recover a large quantity of waste ground on each side, and escape from the huge unhealthy mudbanks that disfigure the river about Whitehall and Scotland-yard. The right to the soil at the bottom of the river is now matter of action at law, between Her Majesty's Government and the Lord Mayor and Corporation of London. The Port of London, legally so called, extends 6£ miles below London Bridge to a point called Bugsby's Hole, over against Blackwall ; but the Port
44 LONDON BRIDGE.
itself docs not reach beyond Limehouse. In 1849 (the last year for which returns have been received), 6,923 British Vessels and 3,047 Foreign Vessels entered the port of London; and 2,894 British, and 1,148, the port of Liverpool, the next in number to London; the London tonnage amounting to 1,890,524, and the Liverpool to 1,582,948. The largest amount of tonnage of British Vessels entering the London port are from Holland, Russia, and France ; of Foreign from the United States, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway. In the same year (1849) 20,640 general coasters including colliers, 482 Irish traders, and 1,799 vessels with cargoes from the Colonies and Dependencies of England, entered the Port. The Pool is that part of the Thames between London Bridge and Cuckold's Point, where colliers and other vessels lie at anchor. From London Bridge to King's-Head-stairs at Rotherhithe, is called the Upper Pool ; from King's-Head-stairs to Cuckold's Point, the Lower Pool. For some account of the Docks, see post, Commercial Buildings, &c, p. 59.
Every master of a collier is required, upon reaching Gravesend, to notify the arrival of his vessel to the officer upon the spot ; and then he receives a direction to proceed to one of the stations appointed for the anchorage of colliers. There are seven of these stations on different Reaches of the river. The ships are then directed to proceed in turn to the Pool, where 243 are provided with stations in tiers, at which they remain for a limited time to unload their cargoes.
LONDON BRIDGE, 928 feet long, of five semi-elliptical arches, built from the designs of John Rennie, a native of Scot- land, and of his sons, John and George. The first stone was laid June 15th, 1825, and the bridge publicly opened by William IV., August 1st, 1831. It is built of granite, and is said to have cost, including the new approaches, near two millions of money. The centre arch is 152 feet span, with a rise above high-water mark of 29 feet 6 inches; the two arches next the centre are 140 feet in span, witli a rise of 27 feet 6 inches ; and the two abutment arches are 130 feet span, with a rise of 24 feet <> inches. The lamps are made from cannon taken in the Peninsular War. It is the last bridge over the Thames, or the one nearest to the
SOUTH WARK BRIDGE. 708 feet long, of three cast-iron arches, resting on stone piers, designed by John Rennie, and erected by a public company, at an expense of about 800,000/. The first stone was laid April 23rd, 1 815 j and the bridge publicly opened April, 1819. The span of the centre arch is
IIUNGERFORD SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 45
240 feet (38 feet wider than the height of the Monument, and the largest span of any arch in the world until the tubular bridges were made). The entire weight of iron em- ployed in upholding the bridge is about 5780 tons.
BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. The work of Robert Mylne, a native of Edinburgh, and originally called Pitt-bridge, by way of compliment to the great Earl of Chatham. The first stone laid Oct. 31st, 1760, and the bridge finally and generally opened, Sunday, Nov. 19th, 1769. It consists of nine arches, is 995 feet in length from wharf to wharf, and cost 152,8402. 3s. 10d.,— 1632. less than the original estimate. This bridge affords a stately and imposing view of St. Paul's Cathedral : indeed it is one of the best points from which its exterior can be seen. The bridge was lowered in 1837, and the open balustrade removed, so that it presents very little of its original appearance, and having sunk considerably, has but small claims to architectural consideration.
HUNGERFORD SUSPENSION" BRIDGE, called also Charing-cross Bridge, crosses the Thames from Hungerford Market to Belvedere-road, Lambeth, is 1352 feet long, and is for foot-passengers only. It was constructed under the direction of Mr. I. K. Brunei, and opened April 18th, 1845. It consists of three openings; the span of the centre is 676 feet 6 inches, and that of each of the side openings 333 feet. The height of the roadway from high-water mark is 22 feet 6 inches; at the piers, 28 feet; and in the centre, 32 feet. The clear width of the roadway is 14 feet. The piers are built on the natural bed of the river without piles. The roadway is carried by four chains, in two lines, with single suspension-rods on each side, 12 feet apart. The chains pass over rollers in the upper part of the towers, so as to equalise the strain, and are secured in tunnels at the abutments to two iron girders, 44 feet long and 5 feet deep, solidly embedded in a mass of brickwork in cement, further strengthened and backed up with concrete. The span of the central opening is greater than that of any suspension-bridge in Britain. It is only second to the suspension-bridge at Fribourg, in Switzerland, the span of which, from pier to pier, is nearly 900 feet. The first stone was laid in 1841 ; and the total cost, including the purchase of property, parlia- mentary, law, and other expenses, was 110,0002. In 1845, the bridge was sold to the original proprietors for the sum of 226,0002., but only the first instalment was paid, and the purchase was thus void. The toll charged is a halfpenny each person each way.
46 WESTMINSTER BRIDGE.
WATERLOO BRIDGE, perhaps the noblest bridge in the world, was built by a public company pursuant to an act passed in 1809. The first stone was laid 1811, and the bridge opened on the second anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, June 18th, 1817. It is said to have cost above a million. The engineer was John Rennie, son of a farmer at Phantassie, in East Lothian — the engineer of many of our celebrated docks and of the breakwater at Plymouth.
" Canova, when he was asked during his visit to England what struck him most forcibly, is said to have replied— that the trumpery Chinese Bridge, then in St. James' Park, should be the production of the Govern- ment, whilst that of Waterloo was the work of a Private Company." — Quarterly Reviev>, No. 112, p. 309.
M. Dupin calls it " a colossal monument worthy of Sesostris and the Csesars." It consists of nine elliptical arches of 120 feet span, and 35 feet high, supported on piers 20 feet wide at the springing of the arches. The bridge and abutments are 1380 feet long, the approach from the Strand 310 feet, and the causeway on the Surrey side, as far as supported by the land-arches, 766 feet. The bridge is, therefore, on a level with the Strand, and of one uniform level throughout. This bridge affords a noble view of Somerset-house, the chef-d'ceuvre of Sir William Chambers. The toll charged is a halfpenny each person each way, and the receipts from foot-passengers in a half-year of 1850 was 46761. 17s. lie?., received from 2,244,910 persons, so that in one half-year the population of London may be said to pay for passing over the bridge.
WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, the second stone bridge over the Thames at London, 1223 feet long, by 44 feet wide, and built by Charles Labelye, a Swiss, naturalised in England. The first stone was laid, 1739, and the bridge opened, 1750. It consists of 15 arches, the centre being 76 feet wide, and is built on caissons or rafts of timber, floated to the spot destined for the piers, and then sunk, each containing 150 loads, of a form and size suitable to the pier. It was formerly surmounted by a lofty parapet, which M. Grosley, a French traveller, gravely asserted was placed there in order to pre- vent the English propensity to suicide ; but the real intention of Labelye was to secure a sufficient weight of masonry to keep his caissons to their proper level. The system, how- ever, of building on caissons, though certainly ingenious, has, in this case more especially, been found to be wholly erro- neous. The bed of the Thames on which the caissons rest became undermined so much by the body of water and increased velocity of the tide, after the removal of old
THAMES TUNNEL. 47
Loudon Bridge, that several of the piers have given way, and in 1846 it was found necessary to close the bridge for carriages. Portions of the enormous masonry about it were then removed, including the lofty parapet, and the bridge itself at the same time considerably lowered. At present it is allowed to remain only tmtil another can be substituted — for which Mr. Barry has given an elegant design — or until the Thames shall wash it entirely away.
VAUXHALL BRIDGE. An iron bridge, of nine equal arches, over the Thames at Vauxhall, communicating with Millbank on the left bank of the river, built from the designs of James Walker; commenced May 9th, 1811, and opened June 4th, 1816. It is the property of a private company, and the toll charged is a halfpenny each person each way. It is 798 feet long.
THE THAMES TUNNEL is two miles below London Bridge, and is easily reached by the numerous steam-boats ply- ing on the Thames. It is 1200 feet in length, beneath the bed of the river Thames, connecting Wapping, on the left side of the river, with Rotherhithe, or Redriff, on the right. This great work a monument of the skill, energy, and enter- prise of Sir Isambard K. Brunei (d. 1849), by whom it was planned, carried out through great difficulties, and finally completed) was commenced March 2nd, 1825, closed for seven years by an inundation, which filled the whole tunnel with water, Aug. 12th, 1828, recommenced Jan. 1835, (thou- sands of sacks of clay being thrown into the river-bed above it,) and opened to the public, March 25th, 1843. The idea of the shield, upon which Sir Isambard Brunei's plan of tunnelling was founded, was suggested to him by the opera- tions of the teredo, a testaceous worm covered with a cylin- drical shell, which eats its way through the hardest wood. Brunei's shield (the great feature in the Thames Tunnel operations) consisted of 12 separate parts, or divisions, each containing three cells, or 36 cells in all. In these cells the miners worked, protected by the shield above and in front, and backed by the bricklayers behind, who built up as fast as the miners advanced. Government lent 247,000?., in Exchequer Bills, to advance the works, and the total cost is said' to have been about 614,000?. The yearly amount of tolls and receipts is under 5000?., a sum barely sufficient to cover the necessaiy expenditure, from the constant influx of land springs. It belongs to a public company called the Thames Tunnel Company. The descent and ascent are by
48 HOME OFFICE.
cylindrical shafts of 100 steps each, and the toll for foot passengers is one penny each passenger. It has not been rendered accessible for vehicles of any sort, owing to the great cost of completing the approaches.
GOVERNMENT OFFICES.
THE TREASURY, Whitehall. A large range of building, between the Horse Guards and Downing-street, so called from its being the office of the Lord High Treasurer; an office of great importance, first put into commission in 1612, on Lord Salisbury's death, and so continued with very few exceptions till the present time, The prime minister of the country is always First Lord of the Treasury, and enjoys a salary of 5,000?. a-year, the same as the Chancellor of the Exchequer, but smaller in amount than the salaries of the Lord Chancellor and of the Lord Chief Justice. He has also an official residence in Downing-street. All the great money transactions of the nation are conducted here. The Lord High Treasurer used formerly to carry a white staff, as the mark of his office. The royal throne still remains at the head of the Treasury table. The present facade toward the street was built (1846-47), by Charles Barry, R.A., to replace a heavy and somewhat dowdy front, the work of Sir John Soane. The shell of the building is of an earlier date, ranging from Ripley's time, in the reign of George I., to the times of Kent and Sir John Soane. The building called "the Treasury " includes the Board of Trade, the Home and Privy Council offices.
PRIVY COUNCIL OFFICE, Whitehall, is part of the south end of the present range of Treasury buildings, as altered by Mr. Barry in 1847-48. Here are kept the minutes of the Privy Councils of the Crown, commencing in 1540. A minute of the reign of James II. contains the original depositions attesting the birth of the Prince of Wales, after- wards known as the Old Pretender.
THE HOME OFFICE, in which the business of the Secretary of State for the Home Department (i.e. Great Britain and Ireland) is conducted, is in part of the Treasury buildings. The salary of the Secretary is 5000/. a-year, and his duty is to see that the laws of the country are observed. His office is one of great importance, and is always a Cabinet appointment.
CUSTOM HOUSE. 49
FOREIGN OFFICE, Downing Street, Westminster, con- sists of four private houses, gradually purchased at each side of the centre one ; two look into the Park, two others front to Downing-street and back to Fludyer-street. The chief officer is a Cabinet Minister, and is called the " Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs." His salary is 5000?. a-year.
Passports are here issued to British subjects known to the Foreign Secretary, or recommended by a banker, at a charge of 7*. 6d.
THE COLONIAL OFFICE, 14, Downing Street, White- hall, is a Government office for conducting the business between great Britain and her colonies. The head of the office is called the " Secretary for the Colonies," and is always a Cabinet minister. His salary is 5000?. In a small waiting- room, on the right hand as you enter, the Duke of Wellington, then Sir Arthur Wellesley, and Lord Nelson, both waiting to see the Secretary of State, met the only time in their lives. The duke knew Nelson, from his pictures. Lord Nelson did not know the duke, but was so struck with his conversa- tion that he stept oiit of the room to enquire who he was.
THE EXCHEQUER, or, Office of the Chancellor of the Exchequer. The principal office for fixing or receiving taxes is in Downing-street, Westminster, the last house on the right-hand side. The word Exchequer is derived from a four- cornered board, about 10 feet long and 5 feet broad, fitted in manner of a table for men to sit about ; on every side whereof was a standing ledge or border, 4 fingers broad. Upon this board was laid a cloth, parti-coloured, which the French call Chequy, and round this board the old Court of Exchequer was held. The Chancellor was one of the judges of the Court, and in ancient times he sat as such, together with the Lord Treasurer and the Barons. His duties are now entirely ministerial. The salary of the Chancellor is 5000?. a year, with a seat in the Cabinet.
THE CUSTOM HOUSE is in Lower Thames-street, facing the river. It was erected 1814-17 from the designs of David Laing, but in consequence of some defects in the piling, the original centre was taken down, and the present front, to the Thames, erected by Sir Robert Smirke. Nearly one half of the customs of the United Kingdom are collected in the Port of London, and about one half of the persons in the Civil Service of the country are employed in duties connected with the collection. In London alone, in 1849, 2228 persons were employed in and attached to the London
E
50 POST OFFICE,
Custom House, maintained at an expense of 271.213?. 10s. 3c?. Liverpool, after London, is the next great port where the largest amount of customs is collected. The staff of servants at Liverpool, in 1849, was 1141. The average revenue col- lected by the Customs in the last nine years is about 20 millions, and the duties of the offices are conducted by com- missioners appointed by the Crown. Observe. — The " Long Room," 190 feet long by 66 broad. The Quay is a pleasant walk fronting the Thames. Hither Cowper, the poet, came, intending to make away with himself,
INLAND REVENUE OFFICE, or Excise, Stamp, Legacy- duty, and Property-tax Office. The Excise Office, in Old Broad-street, was built by the elder Dance, in 1768, on the site of Gresham College. Malt, spirits, and soap, are the articles producing the most Excise-money to the Exchequer. The duty of excise was first introduced into this country by an ordinance of Parliament, of July 22nd, 1643, when an im- post was laid upon beer, ale, wine, and other provisions, for carrying on a war against the king. The duties of the Inland Revenue Office have been consolidated since 1848. The total produce of the excise for one year is estimated at 13 millions, of stamps at 7 millions, and of property and income- tax at 5 millions.
OFFICE OF WOODS AND WORKS is in Whitehall-place, the second door on your left as you enter from Whitehall. This office is managed by Commissioners. The Forests have not yielded a profit for many years, so that the chief revenue of the office lias been derived from the Crown property in houses in the Bailiwick of St. James's, Westminster, and in the Regent's Park. A recent enquiry, instituted by the House of Commons, has led to the exposure of many abuses connected with this office and to their correction as well, so that the Forests will yield, it is thought, in a very few years, a profit to the country. The principal forest belonging to the Crown is the New Forest in Hampshire, formed by William the Conqueror, and in which William Rums was slain by an arrow while hunting.
The Office of Woods and Works has the charge of all the trees, roads, walls, fences, buildings, and lodges in the public parks; and the rangers of the parks have the charge of the herbage, fish, and deer. There ifl a bill now before Parliament for dividing the duties of Woods and Works, and another for the permanent removal of deer from the New Forest.
THE GENERAL POST OFFICE, near St. Paul's, Cm..\r-
POST OFFICE. 51
side, and Newgate Street, stands on the site of the collegiate church of St. Martin's-le-grand, and was built between 1825 and 1829, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, R.A, The office is managed by a Post-Master-General, two Secretaries, an Assistant-Secretary, a Receiver-General, and other officers, together with a formidable staff of clerks, sorters, letter carriers, &c, amounting in May, 1843, to 8398 persons in England and Wales, 1399 in Scotland, and 1505 in Ireland. The gross income of the office, for the year ending Jan. 5th, 1848, was 2,181,0162.; the expenditure 1,196,520?.; and the net income 984,4962. This, however, is without allowing for the expenses of the contract Mail Packet service, paid for by the Admiralty. The number of letters delivered in the year 1848 amounted to 329,000,000, or between four and five-fold the number delivered before the reduction of the postage to one penny for every letter not exceeding half an ounce. At the present time the number of letters delivered in the London district, comprising a radius of 12 miles round the Post Office in St. Martin's-le-Grand, is quite as great as that which, under the old system, was delivered in the whole United Kingdom. Post- Office money-orders, for sums not ex- ceeding 52., are issued at the several offices at the following rates : — For any sum not exceeding 22., threepence; above 22. and not exceeding 52., sixpence. The number of money- orders issued each year is about 4,000,000, the amount about 8,000,0002. A statement, called the Daily Packet List, of the arrival and departure of packet-boats, of unclaimed letters, &c, is published every morning, under the authority of the Post- Master-General, and may be had of J. H. Kendall, the con- tractor, 8, Philpot Lane, Fenchurch Street ; the yearly sub- scription to which (to be paid in advance) is 18s. Letters for departure the same night are received at this office later than at any other office. Some notion of the extent of business carried on in this hive of industry may be obtained from the fact that the weekly wages of the London District Post alone amount in one year to upwards of 15,0002.
As recently as 1826, there was but one receiving office in Pimlico for letters to be delivered within the London radius, and the nearest office for receiving general-post letters, that a person living in Pimlico could go to, was situated in St. James's-street. The introduction of mail-coaches, for the conveyance of letters, by which the revenues of the Post Office were so materially increased, was made by Mr. Palmer, and the first conveyance of the kind left London for Bristol on the evening of the 24th of August, 1784. The penny postage (introduced by the untiring exertions of Mr. Rowland
e 2
52 l'AYM aster-general's office.
Hill) came into operation on Jan. 1 Oth, 1840. For an excel- lent account of the Post Office see Dickens's Homehold Woi'ds, Vol. I., and Quarterly Review for 1849.
General Directions. — Letters addressed " Post Office, London," or " Poste Restante, London," are delivered only at the window of the General Post Office, St. Martin's-le- Grand. The hours of delivery from the Post Office window are from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. When the person applying for letters is a foreigner, he must produce his passpoit. "When a foreigner does not apply in person, but by a messenger despatched for that purpose, the messenger must produce the passport of the person to whom the letters are addressed, as well as a written order, signed and dated by such person. In the case of a messenger being sent for the letters of more persons than one, he must produce passports and orders from each person. If the applicant for the letters is a sub- ject of the United Kingdom, he must be able to state from what place or district he expects letters before he can receive them. Subjects of States not issuing passports are treated as subjects of the United Kingdom. If letters are directed to individuals simply addressed " London " (and not " Post Office," or " Poste Restante, London,") they will not be de- livered from the window at all, but will be sent out by letter carriers for delivery at the address furnished by the applicant. Foreign letters addressed " Post Office, or Poste Restante, London," are retained for two months at the Post Office window. Inland letters similarly addressed are retained one month at the window ; after the expiration of these periods both classes of letters are respectively sent to the Dead Letter-office, to be disposed of in the usual manner. All persons applying for letters at the Post Office window must be prepared to give the necessary explanations to the clerk at the window, in order to prevent mistakes and to insure the delivery of the letters to the persons to whom they properly belong. It will much facilitate the business of the Post Office, if the words " to be called for " are added to the address of letters which are directed Post Office, London.
PAYMASTER-GENERAL'S OFFICE, Whitehall. The
office of her Majesty's Paymaster-General for the payment of army, navy, ordnance, civil services, and exchequer bills. The office is managed by a paymaster, an assistant-paymaster, and a staff of sixty clerks. It was originally the office of the Paymaster-General of the Forces, and was not permanently enlarged till 1836, when the offices of Treasurer of the Navy
HORSE GUARDS. o'3
and Treasurer of the Ordnance were abolished. This office is yearly increasing in importance, and before very long will make nearly all the national payments in detail. A large staff of clerks is employed in examining and paying the non- effective services of the army, navy, and ordnance — such as half-pay, pensions, pensions to widows and children.
HORSE GUARDS, at Whitehall. A guard-house and public building where the Secretary of War, the Commander- in-chief, the Adjutant-General, and Quarter-Master-General have their offices. It was built about 1753, after a design furnished, it is said, by Kent. The archway under it forms a principal entrance to St. James's Park from the east ; but the entree for carriages is permitted only to royal and other personages having leave. At each side of the entrance facing Whitehall two mounted cavalry soldiers do duty every day from 10 to 4. The guard is relieved every morning at a quarter to 11. The salary of the Secretary at War is 2480Z., of the Commander-in-chief , of the Adju-
tant-General , of the Quarter-Master-General
The Adjutant-General is responsible to the Commander-in chief for the arming, clothing, training, recruiting, discipline, and general efficiency of the army; the Quarter-Master- General has the responsibility of settling with the Com- mander-in-chief the movements and quarters of the troops. The Secretary at War has nothing to do with promotions but to see that they are gazetted. The English soldier it is understood enlists for life, but may purchase his discharge, for which it is said every facility is afforded, and at the end of fifteen years may claim his discharge as a matter of course. The British army is composed of 7093 regimental officers on full pay, and the War Office (the principal office in the Horse Guards) is maintained at a cost of 29,000£. a year. The total cost of the British army is about 7 millions, of the navy about 7 millions, and of the ordnance about 3 millions. The number of men in the army is determined by the Cabinet and sanctioned by Parliament. The troops are divided into Household Troops and the Line — the former seldom leaving London, and the latter liable to be moved to our most distant and unhealthy colonies. A private of the Life Guards has Is. lljd a day, and a private of the Horse Guards Is. S\d. a day; the difference arising from an oversight in 1796, in not withdrawing barrack allowances from the privates of the Life Guards. The privates in the Foot Guards have Id. a day more than the Line. The Line have Is. a day, and Id a day for beer money. The price of a
54 ADMIRALTY.
Lieutenant-Colonel's commission in the Guards is, 9000/., and the price of an Ensign's commission 1200/. In the Line the price of an Ensign's commission is only 450/.
THE ADMIRALTY, in Whitehall, occupies the site of Wallingford House, whither, in the reign of William III., the business of the Admiralty was removed. The front towards the street was built (circ. 1726) by Thomas Ripley, architect of Houghton Hall in Norfolk, the "Ripley with a rule," commemorated by Pope.
" See under Ripley rise a new Whitehall, While Jones' and Boyle's united labours fall."
TheDunciad, B.iii.
The screen towards the street was erected in 1776, by the brothers Adam, and is now, it is said, about to be removed for the purpose of erecting a front corresponding to that of the Treasury, so as to include the whole of the Admiralty departments. The office of Lord High Admiral, since the Revolution of 1688, has, with three exceptions, been held in commission. The exceptions are, Prince George of Den- mark, the husband of Queen Anne, 1702 to 1708 ; Thomas, Earl of Pembroke, for a short time in 1709 ; and the Duke of Clarence, afterwards King William IV., in 1S27-28. Among the First Lords Commissioners we may find the names of Anson, Hawke, Howe, Keppell, and St. Vincent. Adjoin- ing to, and communicating with the Admiralty, is a spacious house for the residence of the First Lord. The Secretary and three or four of the junior Lords have residences in the Northern wing of the building. The salary of the First Lord, who has the whole of the patronage of the navy in his hands, is 4500/. a year. The correspondence of the Admiralty is chiefly conducted here, but the accounts are kept by five different officers in what used to be the Navy and Victualling Offices at Somerset House in the Strand, viz., 1. Surveyor of the Navy. 2. Accountant-General. 3. Store-keeper-General. 4. Comptroller of the Victualling and Transport Services. 5. Inspector-General of Naval Hospitals and Fleets. Observe. — Characteristic portrait of Lord Nelson, painted at Palermo, in 1799, for Sir William Hamilton, by Leonardo Guzzardi; he wears the diamond plume which the Sultan gave him. In the house of the Secretary are the portraits of the Secre- taries from Pepys to the present time.
ORDNANCE OFFICES, No. 86, Pall Mall, and Tower of London. The Pall-mall OlRcc was built for the Duke of York, brother of George III. (d. 1767), and was afterwards
SOMERSET HOUSE. 55
inhabited by the Duke's brother, Henry, Duke of Cumber- land (d. 1790). The business of the Office of the Master- General and Board of Ordnance is conducted here and at the Tower. The stores are kept at the Tower and at Woolwich, but the correspondence is carried on in Pall-mall. The total cost of both establishments is about 55,000Z. a year. The departments at the Tower are on the eve of being removed to Pall Mall.
SOMERSET HOUSE, in the Strand. A handsome pile of building, erected between the years 1776 and 1786, on the site of the palace of the Protector Somerset. The architect was Sir William Chambers, son of a Scottish merchant. The general proportions of the building are good, and some of the details of great elegance, especially the entrance archway from the Strand. The terrace elevation towards the Thames was made, like the Adelphi-terrace of the brothers Adam, in anticipation of the long projected embankment of the river, and is one of the noblest fafades in London. The building is in the form of a quadrangle, with wings, and contains within its walls, from 10 to 4 every day, about 900 government officials, maintained at an annual cost of something like 275,000£. The principal government offices in the building are the Audit Office, established 1785, where the accounts of the kingdom and the colonies are audited by commissioners appointed for the purpose, with an accuracy and rapidity of late years worthy of imitation by other public departments ; the Office of the Duchy of Cornwall, for the management of the estates of the Prince of Wales, who is also Duke of Corn- wall ; the Office of Stamps, Taxes, and Excise, or the Inland Revenue Office (as they are now called), where stamps on patents, deeds, newspapers, and receipts are issued, and public taxes and excise duties received from the several dis- trict collectors. Every sheet of paper used for * The Times " is first stamped in this building, and the bulk of the carts within the quadrangle are those of paper-makers bringing paper to be stamped. The Inland Revenue is managed by Commissioners, the chairman having a salary of 25001. a-year, the highest received by any public officer in Somerset House. In rooms two stories below the level of the quadrangle, the mechanical operations are conducted. Legal and commer- cial stamps are impressed by hand-presses, newspaper stamps by hand without any mechanical aid. The name of each newspaper has been inserted in the die, hi moveable type, since the reduction of duty in 1836, and by this means a register is obtained of the circulation of every newspaper in
."SO SOMERSET HOUSE.
the kingdom. In the basement story, are presses moved by- steam : some employed in printing medicine-labels ; some in printing the stamp on countiy bank-notes ; others in stamping the embossed medallion of the Queen on postage envelopes, and on shilling postage stamps; and others in printing penny and twopenny postage stamps on sheets. The Admiralty occupies more than a third of the building, and is a branch (rather perhaps, the body) of the Admiralty at Whitehall. The Model Room is worth seeing. The Pool' Law Commission Office is the head-quarters of the Commis- sioners for regulating the administration of the law with respect to the poor ; and the Registrar-Generals Office is for the registration of the births, marriages, and deaths of the United Kingdom. The Tithe and Copyhold Commissions are also in this building. The Strand front is occupied by the Royal Society, the Society of Anticpiaries, the Senate of London University, the London School of Design, the Astro- nomical Society, the Geographical Society, and the Geological Society. [See Learned Institutions, p. 181.] Observe, under the vestibule, on your left as you enter (distinguished by a bust of Sir Isaac Newton), the entrance-doorway to the apart- ments of the Royal Society and Society of Antiquaries ; Herschel and Watt, and Davy and Wollaston, and Walpole and Hallam have often entered by this door; — under the same vesti- bule, on your right as you enter (now the School of Design, &c, distinguished by a bust of Michael Angelo),the entrance- doorway of the apartments, from 1780 to 1830, of the Royal Academy of Arts. ' Some of the best pictures of the English School have passed under this doorway to the great room of the yearly exhibition ; and under the same doorway, and up the same steps, Reynolds, Wilkie, Flaxman, and Chantrey have often passed. The last and best of Reynolds's Discourses was delivered, by Sir Joshua himself, in the great room of the Academy, at the top of the building. The east wing of the building, erected 1829, is occupied by King's College. The bronze statue of George III., and figure of Father Thames, in the quadrangle, are by John Bacon, R.A., and cost 2000£.
A little above the entrance-door to the Stamps and Taxes is a white watch-face, regarding which the popular belief has been, and is, that it Avas left there by a labouring man who fell from a scaffold at the top of the building, and was only saved from destruction by the ribbon of his watch, which caught in a piece of projecting work. In thankful remem- brance (so the story runs) of his wonderful escape, he after- wards desired that his watch might be placed as near as possiH lot where hi3 life had been saved. Such is
the story told fifty times a week to groups of gaping listeners — a story I am sorry to disturb, for the watch of the labour- ing mau is nothing more than a watch-face, placed by the Koyal Society as a meridian mark for a portable transit instrument in one of the windows of their ante-room. The number of windows in Somerset House is 3600. This was re-ascertained last year by the painter who contracted to paint the outside of the building. It took one man three days to count them.
THE EOYAL MINT, on Tower Hill. The elevation of the building was by a Mr. Johnson, the entrances, &c, by Sir Eobert Smirke. The coinage of the three kingdoms, and of many of our colonies, is executed within these walls. Mode of Admission. — Order from the master, which is not transferable, and is available only for the day specified. In all applications for admission, the names and addresses of the persons wishing to be admitted, or of some one of them, with the number of the rest, are to be stated. The various processes connected with coining are carried on by a series of ingenious machines. The most curious process is that by which the metal, when tested to show that it contains the proper alloy, is drawn through rollers by an engine called " the drawing bench," to the precise thickness required for the coin which is to be cut out of it. In the case of gold, the difference of a hair's breadth in any part of the plate or sheet of gold would alter the value of a sovereign. By another machine circular disks are punched out of the sheets of metal of any size required, and by a number of screw presses these blanks, as they are called, are stamped on obverse and reverse at the same time. Every process has an interest of its own ; but none are more suggestive, and more worth seeing than the rapid motion by which sixty or seventy sixpences may be struck in a minute, and half-crowns or sovereigns in minor proportions ; or the mode in which the press feeds itself with the blanks to be coined, and, when struck, removes them from between the dies. The coins are, of course, struck from dies. A matrix in relief is first cut in soft steel by the engraver. When this is hardened, many dies may be obtained from it, provided the metal resists the great force required to obtain the im- pression. Many matrices and dies split in the process of stamping. The mode of hardening the dies, by a chemical process, is kept secret. There are few periods in the annals of our coinage when the coins of the realm have been more distinguished as works of ai"t than while executed 1 ) y the present engraver, W. Wy on, R. A. The present Master of
58 RECORD OFFICES.
the Mint is Sir John W. Herschel, the celebrated astronomer, an office formerly held by Sir Isaac Newton. Thomas Simon was graver to the Mint during the Protectorate of Crom- well, and the early part of the reign of Charles II.
RECORD OFFICES in London are six in number :— The Chapel, in the Tower of London ; the Chapter-house, West- minster Abbey ; the Rolls Chapel, in Chancery-lane ; Carlton Ride, in St. James's Park ; State Paper Office, in St. James's Park ; Prerogative Will Office, in Doctors' Commons, wherein all wills are proved, and all administrations granted that belong to the Archbishop of Canterbury by his prerogative. A Public Record Office to contain the Records of the Kingdom is now in course of erection on the Rolls estate in Chancery-lane, and will be ready for the reception of the Records in 1853.
At the Chester House may be seen Doomsday Book, or the Suiwey of England made by William the Conqueror, two volumes on vellum of unequal size ; deed of resignation of the Scottish Crown to Edward II. ; the Charter granted by Alfonso of Castile to Edward I., on his marriage with Eleanor of Castile, with a solid seal of gold attached; a Treaty of Peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I. of France, with the gold seal attached hi high relief, and undercut, supposed to be the work of Benvenuto Cellini.
At Carlton Ride are preserved the several instruments of the surrender to Henry VIII. of the whole of the monasteries in England and Wales.
Access to the papers in the State Paper Office can only be obtained by a written order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department. Unrestricted access has never as yet been granted.
In the Prerogative Will Office* may be seen the original will of Shakspeare, on three folio sheets of paper, with his signa- ture to each sheet ; the will of Napoleon, made at St. Helena, bequeathing a legacy of 10,000 francs to the man who tried to assassinate the Duke of Wellington in Paris ! the wills of Van Dyck the painter, of Inigo Jones, Sir Isaac Newton, Dr. Johnson, Izaak Walton ; in .short, of all the great men
* It is much to be regretted thai tin' facilities afforded l>y this tffloe are so very few, that no plan has yet been adopted, by which proper persons might have unrestricted access to the register* of the Court. The office abounds in matter of greal biographical importance illustra- tive of the lives of eminent men, of the descent of property, and of the manners and customs of bygone times. T" literary nun of known attainments the freedom of the office might be given with perfect security.
Princes-street.
1. Nightly watch. 2,2. Secretary's office and room.
3. Chief accountant's
parlour.
4. Secretary's house, a. Power of attorney's
office.
6. Private rooms Branch hanks office.
7. Deputyaccountant's
office.
8. Chief accountant's.
9. Chief cashier's.
10. Governor's room.
11. Deputy governor's. 12, 12. Committee rooms.
13. Officers' rooms.
14. Three per cent, or I
per cent, transfer
15. Rotunda or dividen
pay office.
16. Bullion office.
17. Pay hall. IS. Cheque office,
19. Servants' room.
20. Coffee room.
21. Discount office.
22. Open courts light.
23. Passages, lobbie &c.
24. Waiting room. 23. Chancery offices
a
(<Z
GROUND PLAN
OF THE
BANK
OF
ENGLAND.
BANK OF ENGLAND. 59
of this country who died possessed of property in the south of England. The office hours at the Prerogative Will Office are 9 to 3 in winter, and 9 to 4 in summer. The charges for searching the calendars of names is Is. for every name. The charge for seeing the original will is a shilling extra. Persons are not allowed to make even a pencil memorandum, but official copies of wills may be had at eightpence per folio. At the other Record Offices you are permitted to make extracts and memoranda.
COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS AND DOCKS.
BANK OF ENGLAND, Threadneedle-street, City,— " the principal Bank of Deposit and Circulation ; not in this country only, but in Europe," — was founded in 1694, and grew out of a loan of 1,200.000/. for the public service. Its principal projector was Mr. William Paterson, an enterprising Scotch gentleman ; who, according to his own account, com- menced his exertions for the establishment of a National Bank in 1691. By the laws and regulations which he left behind, no Scotchman can be eligible to fill the post of a Director.
The business of the Bank was carried on in Grocers' Hall, in the Poultry, from its foundation in 1694 to 1734, when it was removed to an establishment of its own (part of the present edifice), designed by Mr. George Sampson. East and west wings were added by Sir Robert Taylor, between 1766 and 1786. Sir John Soane subsequently receiving the ap- pointment of architect to the Bank, and the business increasing, much of the old building was either altered or taken down, and the (one-storied) Bank, much as we now see it, covering an irregular area of four acres, was completed by the same architect. There is little to admire in it : parts, however, are good. Yet it has the merit of being well adapted for the purposes and business of the Bank. The corner towards Lothbury, though small, is much admired. The copings made since the Chartist meeting on the memo- rable 10th of April were added by C. R. Cockerell, R.A., the present architect to the Bank. The area in the centre, planted with trees and shrubs, was formerly the churchyard of St. Christopher, Threadneedle-street. The management
60 BANK or ENGLAND.
of the Bank affairs is vested in a Governor, Deputy-Governor, ;md twenty-four Directors, eight of whom go out every year. The qualifi cation for Governor is 4000/. Stock, Deputy- Governor 30007., and Director 2000/. The room in which the Directors meet is called the Bank Parlour. The profits of the Bank accrue from interest on Exchequer-bills, dis- counts of commercial bills, interest on the capital lent to Government, an allowance of about 70,000/. a year for managing the Public Debt, and some other sources. The dividend received by the proprietors is 7 per cent. In the lobby of the Parlour is a portrait of Abraham Newland, who rose from a baker's counter to be chief clerk of the Bank of England, and to die enormously rich. Madox, who wrote the History of the Exchequer, was the first chief cashier. The number of clerks employed is about 800, and the salaries rise from 50/. to nearly 2000/. a year. The cost in salaries alone is about 190,000/. a year. A valuable library, iutended for the especial use of the clerks, has recently been established in the Bank by the liberality of the Directors. The Bullion Office is situated on the northern side of the Bank, in the base- ment story, and formed part of the original structure, but has since been enlarged. It consists of a public chamber for the transaction of business, a vault for public deposits, and a vault for the private stock of the Bank. The duties are dis- charged by a Principal, a Deputy-Principal, Clerk, Assistant Clerk, and porters. In the process of weighing, a number of admirably-constructed balances are brought into operation. A large balance, invented by Mr. Bate, weighs silver in bars, from 50 lbs. to 80 lbs. troy ; — a balance, invented in 1820, by Sir John Barton, of the Mint, weighs gold coin in quantities varying from a few ounces to 18 lbs. troy, and gold in bars of any weight up to 1 5 lbs. ; — a third, invented by Mr. Bate, weighs dollars to amounts not exceeding 72 lbs. 2 oz. troy. These instruments are very perfect in their action, admit of easy regulation, and are of durable construction. The public are admitted to a counter, separated from the rest of the apartments, but are on no account allowed to enter the bullion vaults. The amount of bullion in the possession of the Bank of England constitutes, along with their securities, the assets which they place against their liabilities, on account of circulation and deposits ; and the difference (about three millions) between the several amounts is called the " Host,-' or- guarantee fund to provide for the contingency of pos>iUe Gold is almost exclusively obtained by the Bank in the "bar" form; although no form of the deposit would be refused. A bar of gold is a small slab, weighing in lbs., and
ROYAL EXCHANGE. <il
•worth about 800?. In the weighing office is the balance made by Mr. Cotton, with glass weights, and weighing at the rate of 33 sovereigns a minute. The machine appears to be a square brass box, in the inside of which, secure from currents of air, is the machinery. This wonderful and ingenious piece of mechanism is so contrived, that, on receiving the sovereigns, it discriminates so as to throw those of full weight into one box, and to reject those of light weight into another. Do not omit to see the wonderful machinery- invented by Mr. Oldham, by which Bank-notes are printed and numbered with unerring precision, in progression from 1 to 100,000; the whole accompanied by such a system of registration and checks as to record everything that every part of the machine is doing at any moment, and render fraud impossible. The value of Bank-notes in circulation in one quarter of a year is upwards of 18.000,000?., and the number of persons receiving dividends in one year is about 284,000. The Stock or Annuities upon which the Public Dividends are payable amount to about 774,000,000?., and the yearly dividends payable thereupon to about 25,000,000?.. The issue of paper on securities is not permitted to exceed 14,000,000?. In 1844 the Bank Charter was con- tinued till 1855. The mode of admission to view the Bank is by an order from the Governor, Deputy-Governor, or any of the Directors. The commonest almanack or pocket-book is sure to contain a list of Bank Directors for the current year.
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, (a quadrangular edifice, with a portico on the W. side facing down Cheapside ; and the third building of the kind on the same site,) erected for the convenience of merchants and bankers ; built from the designs of William Tite, and opened .by Queen Victoria, Oct. 28th, 1844. . The pediment was made by R. Westmacot, R.A. (the younger). The building contains an open court or quadrangle, surrounded by a colonnade ; a marble statue of her Majesty, by Lough ; and statues of Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir Hugh Mvdclelton, and Queen Elizabeth, by Messrs. Joseph, Carew, and Watson. It is said to have cost 180,000?. The hour of 'Change, the busy period, is from half-past 3 to half-past 4 p.m. The two great days on 'Change are Tuesday and Friday. The Rothschilds occupy a pillar on the S. side of the Exchange. In the E. part, up-stairs, are Lloyd's Subscription Rooms {originally Lloyd's Coffee House), the centre and focus of all intelligence, commercial and political, domestic and foreign, where merchants,
62 Lloyd's.
shippers, and underwriters attend to obtain shipping intelligence, and where the business of Marine Insurance is carried on through the medium of underwriters. There is no one engaged in any extensive mercantile business in London who is not either a member or subscriber to Lloyd's : and thus the collective body represents the greater part of the mercantile wealth of the country. The entrance to Lloyd's is in the area, near the eastern gate of the Royal Exchange. A wide flight of steps leads to a handsome vestibule, ornamented by marble statues of Prince Albert, by Lough; the late William Huskisson, by Gibson, R. A., pre- sented by his widow. On the walls are the tablet, erected as a testimonial to the Times Newspaper, for the public spirit displayed by its proprietor in the exposure of a fraudulent conspiracy. In this vestibule are the entrances to the three principal subscription-rooms — the Underwriters', the Mer- chants', and the Captains' Room.
The affairs of LloycVs are managed by a committee of nine members. The chairman is elected annually : he is generally a merchant of eminence and a member of Parliament. There is a secretary and 8 clerks, 8 waiters, and 5 messengers. The expenses amount to upwards of 10,0007. per annum. The income is derived from the subscriptions of about 1900 members and subscribers, and substitutes ; the payments from the insurance and other public companies; the adver- tiring of ships' bills, and the sale of Lloyd's List. Each member pays 25/. admission, and an annual subscription of 41. As.; but if an underwriter, 10Z. 10s. Annual subscribers to the whole establishment pay four guineas, or if to the Merchants' Room only, then two guineas. The admission is by ballot of the committee, on the recommendation of six subscribers.
What is called Lloyd?* Register of British ami Foreign Shipping, is in No. 2, White-Lion-court. Comhill, and was established in 1834. The object of the society n obtain a knowledge of the condition of the mercantile shipping, by means of careful surveys to be made by com- petent surveyors, and thus to secure an accurate classification according to the real and intrinsic worth of the ship. The affairs of the Society which instituted this book are mai
by a committee consisting of 2 t members, namely, 8 mer- chants, <s shipowners, and 8 underwriters, six members (2 of each of the description just mentioned) retire annually, but are eligible to be re-elected. The right of election rests equally with the committee for Lloyd's, and the committee of the General Shipowners' Society.
TRINITY HOUSE. — stock EXCHANGE. 63
On the architrave of the N. facade of the Exchange are three inscriptions in relief, each divided by a simple moulding. The one on the left of the spectator is the common City motto, "domine. dirige. nos," and that on the right "honor, deo." The motto in the central compartment, " Fortvx. a. my," was the motto of Sir Thomas Gresham.
It is contemplated, we are told, to glaze in the whole quadrangle of the Royal Exchange. This will add to the comfort of the merchants on 'Change, but hardly to the architectural character of Mr. Tite's building.
The first Royal Exchange was founded by Sir Thomas Gresham, June 7th, 1566, and the building opened by Queen Elizabeth, Jan. 23rd, 1570-1.
TRINITY HOUSE, on the K side of Tower Hill, built by Samuel Wyatt. The house belongs to a company or corporation founded by Sir Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., and commander of the Harry Grace de Dieu, and was incorporated (March 20th, 1529) by the name of " The Master, Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Brotherhood, of the most glorious and Undivid- able Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the parish of Deptford Strond, in the county of Kent." The corporation consists of a Master, Deputy Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unlimited number of "younger brethren," and has for its object the increase and encouragement of navigation, &c, the regulation of light-houses, and seamarks, and the general management of matters not immediately connected with the Admiralty. The revenue of the corporation, arising from tonnage, ballast- age, beaconage, &c, is applied (after defraying the expenses of light-houses, buoys, &c, to the relief of decayed seamen, their widows and children. The Duke of Wellington is the present master.
STOCK EXCHANGE, Capel Court. This is the ready- money market of the world. It stands immediately in front of the Bank of England. The first stone of the present Hall was laid in 1801, and the building opened in March, 1802. Capel-court, in which it stands, was so called from the London residence and place of business of Sir William Capel, ancestor of the Capels, Earls of Essex, and Lord Mayor of London in 1504. The members of the Stock Exchange, about 850 in number, consist of brokers and dealers in British and foreign funds, railway and other shares exclu- sively ; each member paying an annual subscription of 1 0/. A notice is posted at ever}' entrance that none but members
64 EAST INDIA HOUSE.
are admitted. A stranger is soon detected, and by the custom of the place is made to understand that he is an intruder, and turned out. The admission of a member takes place in committee, and is by ballot. The election is only for one year, so that each member has to be re-elected every Lady- day. The committee, consisting of thirty, are elected by the members at the same time. Every new member of the " house," as it is called, must be introduced by three members, each of whom enters into security in 300?. for two years. An applicant for admission who has been a clerk to a member for the space of four years has to provide only two securities for 2501. for two years. A bankrupt member immediately ceases to be a member, and cannot be re-elected unless he pays 6s. 8d. in the pound from resources of his own. The usual commission charged by a broker is one- eighth per cent, upon the stock sold or purchased ; but on foreign stocks, railway bonds and shares, it varies according to the value of the securities. The broker generally deals with the "jobbers," as they are called, a class of members who are dealers or middle men, who remain in the Stock Exchange in readiness to act upon the appearance of the brokers, but the market is entirely open to all the members, so that a broker is not compelled to deal with a jobber, but can treat with another broker if he can do so more advan- tageously to his client. ^ The fluctuations of „ price are produced by sales and purchases, by " continental news, domestic politics and finance ; and sometimes by a fraud or trick like that ascribed to Lord Cochrane and others, in 1814, when the members were victimised to a large amount.
EAST INDIA HOUSE, Leadenhall Street,— the House of the East India Company, the largest and most mag- nificent Company in the world,— "was built on the site of a former house by Mr. R. Jupp, in 1799, and subsequently enlarged from designs by C. R. Cockerell, R.A., and W. Wilkins, R.A. The poor sculpture in the pediment was the work of the younger Bacon. The Company was first incor- porated in 1600. The last great change was made in 1833, when an Act of Parliament was passed, by which the go- vernment of India is continued in the hands of the Company until 1854. The home government of the Company consists of " The Court of Proprietors, or General Court," composed of the owners of India stock; "The Court of Directors," selected from the Proprietors ; and " The Board of Control," nominated by the Sovereign. Here is a Museum open to the public on Fridays, from 11 to 3. Observe. — Large and
DOCKS. 65
capital drawing of old East India House. Hindu idols in silver and gold. Hindu and Goorkha swords. Pair of Gauntlets made at Lahore, sometimes used by the native chiefs and horsemen in India (beautifully elaborate). Sword of the executioner attached to the palace of the King of Candy (taken at the capture of Candy). Piece of wood of the ship " Farquharson," containing the horns of a fish called the monodon ; the largest horn had penetrated through the copper sheeting and outside lining into one of the floor timbers. An emblematic organ (a tiger on a man), contrived for the amusement of Tippoo Sultan. Surya, the Sun, in his seven-horse car. Buddhist idols and relics. A perfumed gold necklace. The state howdah of Durgan Sal, usurper of Bhurtpore. Full-length portrait of the famous Nadir Shah. Boman tesselated pavement found in front of the East India House — human figure reclining on a tiger. Babylonian inscription on stone, as sharp and perfect as the day it was cut. Monument to the great Lord Clive ; monument to Major Lawrence, the friend of Clive. Bust of Mr. Colebrooke, by Chantrey. The coins (a most valuable collection under the care of Prof. H. H. Wilson) can only be seen by special permission. Hoole, the translator of Tasso ; Charles Lamb, author of Elia ; and James Mill, the historian of British India; were clerks in the East India House. " My printed works," said Lamb, " were my recrea- tions— my true works may be found on the shelves in Leadenhall-street, filling some hundred folios."
THE DOCKS OF LONDON are five in number: West India Docks, East India Docks, St. Katherine's Docks, London Docks, and Commercial Docks, have all of them been formed since 1800, previous to which time the several proprietors of wharfs and landing-places, both above and below bridge, were in the way of their formation. One and all of these Docks have been constructed by joint-stock com- panies, and though not unprofitable to their promoters, have redounded more to the advantage of the Port of London than to that of their projectors.
WEST INDIA DOCKS, the most magnificent in the world (William Jessop, engineer), cover 295 acres, and lie between Limehouse and Blackwall, on the left bank of the Thames. The first stone was laid by William Pitt, July 12th, 1800, and the docks opened for business, Aug. 21st, 1802. The north- ern, or Import Dock, is 170 yards long by 166 wide, and will hold 201 vessels of 300 tons each; and the southern, or
F
66 LKXK^.
Export Dock, is 170 yards long by 135 yards wide, and will hold 195 vessels. South of the Export Dock is a canal nearly three-quarters of a mile long, cutting off the great bend of the river, connecting Liniehouse Reach with Black- wall Reach, and forming the northern boundary of the Isle of Dogs. The two docks, with their warehouses, are en- closed by a lofty wall five feet in thickness, and have held at one time 148,563 casks of sugar, 70,875 barrels and 433,618 bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,021 logs of mahogany, and 21,350 tons of logwood. Though they retain their old name, they belong to the East and West India Dock Company, and are used by every kind of shipping. The office of the Company is at No. 8, Billiter-square ; and the best way of reaching the docks is by the Blackwall Railway. The original capital of the Company was 500,000/., afterwards raised to 1,200,000Z. The revenues in 1809 amounted to 330,623/., and in 1813, when they reached their climax, to 449,421/. Since that time the depreciation of the West India Trade has caused a great falling off. The annual expenses of the establishment amounted in 1819 to 151,644/., of which above 50,000/. went to workmen, above 40,000/. to building and improvements, and 13,320/. to taxes.
EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, a little lower down the river than the West India Docks, and considerably smaller, were originally erected for the East India Company, but since the opening of the trade to India, the property of the East and West India Companies. The first stone was laid March 4th, 1805, and the docks opened for business Aug. 4th, 1806. The number of directors is 13, who must each hold 20 shares in the stock of the Company, and 4 of them must be directors of the East India Company. This forms the only connexion which the East India Company has with the Docks. The possession of five shares gives a right of voting. The Import Dock has an area of 19 acres, the Export Dock of 10 acres, and the Basin of 3, making a total surface of 32 acres. The gates are closed at 3 in the winter months, and at 4 in the summer months. The mode of admission for visitors is much stricter than at any of the other Docks. The best way of reaching the Docks is by the Blackwall Railway from Fenchurch-strcet. This is the head-quarters of White Bait, which may be had in the neighbouring Brunswick Tavern.
ST. KATHERINE'S DOCKS, near the Tower. First stone laid May 3rd, 1827, and the Docks publicly opened, Oct. 25th, 1828; 1250 houses, including the old Hospital of St. Kathe-
DOCKS. 67
line, -were purchased and pulled down, and 11,300 inhabitants removed, in clearing the ground for this magnificent under- taking, of which Mr. Telford was the engineer, Mr. Hardwick the architect, and Sir John Hall, the present secretary, the active promoter. The total cost was 1,700,0002. The area of the Docks is about 24 acres, of which 11£ are water. The lock is sunk so deep that ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide. The warehouses, vaults, sheds, and covered ways will contain 110,000 tons of goods. The gross earnings of the Company in 1845 were 230,9922. 15s. 2c?. ; expenses, 122,7172. 7s. lid. ; balance, 108,2752. 7s. 3<rZ. The gross earnings for 1846 were 229,8142. 14s. 10(7.; expenses, 124,2692. 14s. 7(2. ; balance, 105,5452. 0s. 3(2. The earth excavated at St. Katherine's when the Docks were formed was carried by water to Millbank, and employed to fill up the cuts or reservoirs of the Chelsea Waterworks Company, on which, under Mr. Cubitt's care, Eccleston-square, and much of the south side of Pimlico, has been since erected.
THE LONDON DOCKS, situated on the bank of the Thames, between St. Katherine's Docks and Ratcliffe Highway. The first and largest dock (John Rennie, engineer) was opened, Jan. 30th, 1805 ; the entrance from the Thames at Shadwell (Henry R. Palmer, engineer) was made, 1831 ; and the New Tea Warehouses, capacious enough to receive 120,000 chests, were erected in 1844-45. This magnificent establishment comprises an area of 90 acres — 35 acres of water, and 12,980 feet of quay and jetty frontage, with three entrances from the Thames, viz., Hermitage, 40 feet in width; Wapping, 40 feet; and Shadwell, 45 feet. The Western Dock comprises 20 acres ; the Eastern, 7 acres ; and the Wapping Basin, 3 acres. The entire structure cost 4,000,0002. of money. The wall alone cost 65,0002. The walled-in range of dock possesses water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive of lighters ; warehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods ; and vault-room for 60,000 pipes of wine. The tobacco warehouse alone covers 5 acres. The number of ships entered in the six months ending May 31st, 1849, was 704, measuring upwards of 1 95,000 tons. Six weeks are allowed for unloading, beyond which period the charge of a farthing per ton is made for the first two weeks, and a halfpenny per ton afterwards. The business of the Docks is managed by a Court of Directors, who sit at the London Dock House, in New Bank-buildings. The capital of the shareholders is 4,000,0002. As many as 2900 labourers have been emplovedin these docks in one day.
f 2
0 ! DOCKS.
M The TobaccoTVarehouses are rented by Government at 14,0007. a year. They will contain about 24,000 hogsheads, averaging 1200 lbs. each, and equal to 30,000 tons of general merchandise. Passages and alleys, each several hundred feet long, are bordered on both sides by close and com- pact ranges of hogsheads, with here and there a small space for the counting-house of the officers of customs, under whose inspection all the arrangements are conducted. Near the north-east corner of the ware- houses is a door inscribed 'To the Kiln,' where damaged tobacco is burnt, the long chimney which carries off the smoke being jocularly called ' The Queen's Pipe.' " — Knight's London, iii. 76.
This is the great depot for the stock of wines belonging to the Wine Merchants of London. Port is principally kept in pipes ; sherry in hogsheads. On the 30th of June, 1849, the Dock contained 14,783 pipes of port ; 13,107 hogsheads of sherry; 64 pipes of French wine; 796 pipes of Cape wine; 7607 cases of wine, containing 19,140 dozen; 10,113 hogsheads of brandy; and 3642 pipes of rum. The total of port was 14,783 pipes, 4460 hogsheads, and 3161 quarter casks.
" As you enter the dock, the sight of the forest of masts in the distance, and the tall chimneys vomiting clouds of black smoke, and the many- coloured flags flying in the air, has a most peculiar effect: while the sheds, with the monster wheels arching through the roofs, look like the paddle-boxes of huge steamers. Along the quay, you see now men with their faces blue with indigo, and now gangers with {their long brass- tipped rule dripping with spirit from the cask they have been probing ; then will come a group of flaxen-haired sailors, chattering German ; and next a black sailor, with a cotton handkerchief twisted turban-like around hu» head. Presently a blue-smocked butcher, with fresh meat and a bunch of cabbages in the tray on his shoulder, and shortly afterwards a mate with green parroquets in a wooden cage. Here you will see, sitting on a bench, a sorrowful-looking woman, with new bright cooking tins at her feet, telling you she is an emigrant preparing for her voyage. As you pass along this quay the air is pungent with tobacco, at that it overpowers you with the fumes of rum. Then you are nearly sickened with the stench of hides and huge bins of horns, and shortly afterwards the atmosphere is fragrant with coffee and spice. Nearly everywhere you meet stacks of cork, or else yellow bins of sulphur or lead-coloured copper ore. As you enter this warehouse, the flooring is sticky, as if it had been newly tarred, with the sugar that has leaked through the casks, and as you descend into the dark vaults you see long lines of lights hanging from the black arches, and lamps flitting about midway. Here you sniff the fumes of the wine, and there the peculiar fungous smell of dry-rot. Then the jumble of sounds as yon pass along the dock blends in anything lmt sweet concord. The Bailors axe singing boisterous niggex songs from the Yankee ship just entering, the ooopei is hammering at the casks ou the quay ; the chains of the cranes, loosed of their weight, rattle as they fly up again ; the ropes splash in the water; some captain shouts his orders through bis hands; a goat bleats from some ship in the basin; and empty casks roll along the stones with a hollow drum- like sound. Here the heavy laden ships are down far below the quay, and you descend to them by ladders, whilst in another basin they are high up out of the water, so that their green copper sheathing is almost level With the eye of the passenger, while above his head a long line of bowsprits stretch tax oyer the quay, and from them hang spars and
COAL EXCHANGE. 69
planks as a gangway to each ship. This immense establishment is worked by from one to three thousand hands, according as the business is either ' brisk ' or ' slack.' " — Henry Mayhew, Labour and the Poor, in the Morning Chronicle for Oct. 1849.
Mode of Admission. — The basins and shipping are open to the public ; but to inspect the vaults and warehouses an order must be obtained from the Secretary at the London Dock House in New Bank-buildings ; ladies are not admitted after 1 p.m.
COMMERCIAL DOCKS. Five ample and commodious docks on the south side of the river, the property of the Commercial Dock Company, with an entrance from the Thames, between Randall's-rents and Dog-and-Duck-stairs, nearly opposite King's- Arms-stairs in the Isle of Dogs. They were opened in 1807, and consist principally of the old Greenland Docks for Greenland ships, enlarged and provided with warehouses for bonding foreign corn. They comprise 49 acres, 40 of which are water ; and are principally used by vessels engaged in the Baltic and East Country commerce and importation of timber. Office of the Company, No. 106, Fenchurch-street. The removal of the mud deposited in the Docks by the steam navigation of the Thames, costs the Company, on an average, about 1000£. a year.
CORN EXCHANGE, Mark Lane, City, projected and opened 1747, enlarged and partly rebuilt in 1827, and reopened, June 24th, 1828. The market days are Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and the hours of business are from 10 to 3 ; Monday is the principal day. Wheat is paid for in bills at one month, and all other descriptions of com and grain in bills at two months. The Kentish " hoymen " (dis- tinguished by their sailors' jackets) have stands free of expense, and pay less for rentage and dues than others.
COAL EXCHANGE, in Lower Thames Street, nearly opposite Billingsgate, established pursuant to 47 Geo. III., cap. 68. The first stone of the present building (J. B. Bunning, architect) was laid Dec. 14th, 1847, and the building opened by Prince Albert, in person, Oct. 30th, 1849. In making the foundations a Roman hypocaust was laid open, perhaps the most interesting of the many Roman remains discovered in London. It has been arched over, and is still visible. The interior decorations of the Exchange are by F. Sang, and are both appropriate and instructive, represent- ing the various species of ferns, palms, and other plants found fossilised amid strata of the coal formation ; the principal
70 RAILWAY STATIONS. — SMITHFIELD.
collieries and mouths of the shafts ; portraits of men who have rendered service to the trade; colliers' tackle, imple- ments, &c. The floor is laid in the form of the mariner's compass, and consists of upwards of 40,000 pieces of wood. The black oak portions were taken from the bed of the Tyne, and the mulberry wood introduced as the blade of the dagger in the City shield was taken from a tree said to have been planted by Peter the Great when working in this country as a shipwright. 20,000 seamen are employed in the carrying department alone of the London Coal Trade.
LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY STA- TION", Euston Square, by far the finest railway station in London, will be found to repay a visit. The depot of the Company at Euston-square is of enormous and increasing magnitude. The total length of the line in which the Com- pany is interested, directly or indirectly, is 1141 miles, and the total amount expended up to October, 1848 (when the great financial statement of the Company was made), was 22,835,120?. The great Hall at Euston-square station (opened May, 1849), was built from the designs of P. C. Hardwick, son of Philip Hardwick, R.A., and the building is said to have cost 150,000?. The bas-reliefs of London, Liverpool, Man- chester, &c, are by John Thomas, the sculptor of the statues and bosses at the New Houses of Parliament.
The LONDON BRIDGE STATION is the property of two Companies, and is perhaps a more wonderful sight, from the complication of its rails, than any other station in London or indeed elsewhere.
Some further notion of the extent of private enterprise in this country may be obtained from the establishment of Messrs. Cox and Greenwood, the large army agents in Craig's- court, Charing-cross. They employ about 48 clerks for Regimental agency alone, and these are maintained at an annual cost of 12,500?. Of the 35,000?. a year, or thereabouts, paid by the Government for Army agency, something like 23,000?. a year is paid to the firm of Cox and Greenwood.
MARKETS.
SMITHFIELD, the great cattle market of London :— an open area, in the form of an irregular polygon, containing five acres and three quarters, surrounded by bone-hou.-e-. i
SM1THF1EJLD. 71
manufactories, public-houses, and knackers' yards. The name would seem to have been originally Smoothfield, "campus planus." Monday is set apart for fat cattle and sheep ; Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, for hay and straw ; Friday, cattle and sheep and milch cows, and at 2 o'clock for scrub- horses and asses.
" Falstaff. Where's Bardolph?
" Page. He 's gone into Smithfield to buy your worship a horse.
" Falstaff. I bought him in Paul's, and he '11 buy me a horse in Smithfield : an I could get me but a wife in the Stews, I were manned, horsed, and wived." — Second Part of Henry IV., Act i., sc. 2.
All sales take place by commission. The City receives a toll upon every beast exposed to sale of Id. per head, and of sheep at 2d. per score, and for every pen Is. The total pro- duce to the Corporation is from 5000/. to 6000Z. a-year. Smithfield salesmen estimate the weight of cattle by the eye, and from constant practice, approach so near exactness, that they are seldom out more than a few pounds. The sales are always for cash. No paper is passed, but when the bargain is struck, the buyer and seller shake hands and close the sale. Several millions are annually paid away in this manner. The average weekly sale of beasts is about 3000; and of sheep about 30,000 ; increased in the Christmas week to about 4000 beasts, and 47000 sheep. As a sheep market, Smithfield has been constantly on the decrease within the last ten years. There are about 4000 butchers in the metro- polis. The best time, indeed the only time, that a stranger should attempt to see Smithfield, is on a Monday morning before daylight, on the second week in December preparatory to the great cattle show. The scene by torch-light is extremely picturesque. The cruelties inflicted are " pething," (hitting them over the horns,) and " hocking." To prevent undue seventy, the drovers have stamped sticks, but this effects but very little. The market commences at 11 o'clock on Sunday night. The principal thoroughfare to the market is by St. John's-street. Many attempts have been made to remove Smithfield Market to a less central situation and less crowded thoroughfare. A market, admirably adapted for the purposes for which it was intended, was built in the Lower- road, Islington, and opened April 18th, 1836, but such was the influence of custom in the name of Smithfield, and the associations attached to an old spot, that salesmen still con- tinued through crowded streets to drive their cattle to the favourite locality of the London butchers. An Abattoir Company has since proved a failure, and, in 1849, another attempt to establish a market for the sale of beasts at Isling-
72 BILLINGSGATE.
ton has proved unsuccessful. Nothing, I fear, but an act of Parliament will ever remove Smithfielcl Market, and this the Government has now undertaken to see carried out. To pen the cattle sent for sale at Smithfield, as they are pent at Poissy, near Paris, from seven to eight acres would be re- quired ; the present extent is, as we have seen, five acres and three quarters. The insufficiency of space has therefore led to much cruel packing, and the closeness with which the animals are wedged together has not been untruly likened to the wedging of so many figs in a dram, The space is not capable of holding more than 4000 head of cattle and 30,000 sheep.
" Different statements have from time to time been put forth respecting the consumption of the principal products brought to London; but, with the exception of coal, and one or two other articles, there are no means by which to arrive at anything like a correct conclusion. Allowing for the carcases imported by steam and otherwise, the annual consumption of butcher's meat may, however, be at present (1851) estimated at about '-'•40,000 bullocks, 1,700,000 sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs, exclusive of vast quantities of bacon and ham." — Me CullocKs London in 1850-1851, p. 55.
Smithfield is famous in History for its jousts, tournaments, executions and burnings, and in the present day for its market, the great cattle market of the largest city in the world. Here Wallace and the gentle Mortimer were exe- cuted. Here, on Saturday the 15th of June, 1381, Sir William Walworth slew Wat Tyler ; the King standing towards the cast near St. Bartholomew's Priory, and the Commons towards the west in form of battle. The stake, at which so many of the Marian martyrs died, was fixed imme- diately opposite the church of St. Bartholomew the Great. Here too, from September 3rd to 6th, is still held Barthohnm w Fair, once one of the leading fairs in England, but now only a nuisance.
BILLINGSGATE. A gate, wharf, and market a little below London Bridge on the left bank of the Thames (Mr. Buuning, architect), appointed by Queen Elizabeth "an open place for the landing and bringing in of any fish, corn, salt, stores, victuals, and fruit (grocery wares excepted), and to be a place of carrying forth of the same, or the like, and for no other merchandizes : " and made, in the reign of William III., on and after May 10th, 1699, " a free and open market for all sorts offish."
"How this <,'atc took that name, or of what antiquity the Bame is, i most leave uncertain, as not baying read any ancient record thereof, more than that (Jeffrey Monmouth vriteth, that Belin, a kinj,' of the Britons, about four hundred years before Christ's Nativity, built this
COVENT GARDEN MARKET. 73
gate, and named it Belin's gate, after his own calling ; and that when he. was dead, his body being burnt, the ashes in a vessel of brass were set upon a high pinnacle of stone over the same gate. It seemeth to me not to be so ancient, but rather to have taken that name of some later owner of the place, happily named Beling or Biling, as Somer's key, Smart's key, Frost wharf, and others thereby, took their names of their owners." — Stow, p. 17.
The coarse language of the place has long been famous : —
" There stript, fair Rhetoric languish'd on the ground; His blunted arms by sophistry are borne, And shameless Billingsgate her robes adorn."
Pope, The Dunciad, B. iv.
" One may term Billingsgate," says old Fuller, " the Esculine gate of London."
The market opens at 5 o'clock throughout the year. All fish are sold by the tale except salmon, which is sold by weight, and oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure. The salmon imports are from Scotland and Ireland, and from Holland, and the north of Europe. The best cod is brought from the Dogger-bank, and the greater number of the lobsters from Norway. The eels are chiefly from Holland. Many vain attempts have been made to estimate the value of the fish sold or consumed in London, but we have no good data to go on. The consumption in London is less than the sale, the opening of railways having made London the fish-mai'ket of at least half of England. Salmon is sent in boxes on com- mission to agents, who charge 5 per cent, and take the risk of bad debts. This business is in few hands, and those en- gaged in it are the most wealthy of all dealers in fish.
"I ascertained," says Mr. Mayhew, writing in 1850, "from the authorities at Billingsgate, and from experienced sales- men, that of the quantity of fish conveyed to that great mart, the costermongers bought one-third ; another third was sent into the country ; and another disposed of to the fishmongers, and to such hotel-keepers, or other large purchasers, as resorted to Billingsgate."
Here every day (at 1 and 4), at the " One Tun Tavern," a capital dinner may be had for Is. 6d., including three kinds of fish, joints, steaks, and bread and cheese.
COVENT GARDEN MARKET, the great fruit, vegetable, and herb market of London, originated (circ. 1656) in a few temporary stalls and sheds at the back of the garden wall of Bedford-house on the south side of the square. The present Market-place (William Fowler, architect) was erected (1830) at the expense of the late Duke of Bedford. The market is
74 LEADENHALL MARKET.
rated (1849) to the poor at 4800?., rather under than above the amount derived from the rental and the tolls. The stranger in London who wishes to see what Covent-garden Market is like, should visit it on a Tuesday, Thursday, or Satur- day morning in summer, between 3 and 7 o'clock. To see the supply of fruit and vegetables carted off, 7 a.m. is early enough. To enjoy the sight and smell of flowers and fruit, the finest in the world, any time from 10 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. will answer. The centre arcade at mid-day is one of the prettiest sights in London. Saturday is the best day.
NEWGATE MARKET, between Newgate-street and Paternoster-row, originally a meal market, now a meat market, and much frequented, having grown into reputation from the time when the stalls and sheds were removed from Butcher-hall-lane and the localities adjoining the church of St. Nicholas Shambles. The West End carcase butchers come to this market for almost all their meat, and Newgate- street, on a market morning, has not been unaptly likened to one continuous butcher's tray.
LEADENHALL MARKET, between Gracechurch-street and the East India House. A large market for butchers' meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, leather, hides, bacon, &c. The manor-house of Leadenhall, which gave the name to the market, belonged (1309) to Sir Hugh Neville, knight, and was converted into a granary for the City by Simon Eyre, draper, and Mayor of London, in 1445. It appears to have been a large building and covered with lead, then an unusual roofing on halls and houses. The market escaped the Great Fire of 1666.
" YVould'st thou with mighty heef augment thy meal ? Seek Leadenhall." — Gay, Trivia.
Leadenhall is no longer celebrated for its beef, but is de- servedly esteemed as the largest and best poultry market in London.
Of the minor markets in London, Hungerford Makkkt and Farringdon Market are the two largest. The former is a general market for butchers' meat, fish, poultry, flowers, and fruit. Farringdon is the great water-cress market of London.
"To visit Furriiigdon Market on I Mc .inlay morning [not later tlian six] is the only proper way to Judge of the fortitude and courage and perseverance of the poor." — //. Maphtto.
The greatest number of horses are sold at Tattersai.i. 'l in Grosvenor-place close to the Duke of Wellington's, and
BREWERIES. 75
entered by a narrow lane at the side of St. George's Hospital. The mart was so called after Richard Tattersall (d. 1795), originally a training groom to the second and last Duke of Kingston, who laid the foundation of his fortune by the pur- chase, for 2500/., of the celebrated horse " Highflyer." All horses for sale must be sent on the Friday before the day of sale. The days of sale are Mondays throughout the year, and Thursdays in the height of the season. Here is a subscrip- tion-room, under the revision of the Jockey Club (who have rooms in Old Bond-street), and attended by all the patrons of the turf, from noblemen down to innkeepers. Days of meet- ing, Monday and Thursday throughout the year. Settling days, Tuesday after the Derby, Monday after the St. Leger. It is necessary to have an introduction from a subscriber. Annual subscription, 21. 2s. The number of members is stated to be between three and four hundred. The betting at Tattersall's regulates the betting throughout the country.
BREWERIES.
Among the host of curiosities to be seen in London nothing can be more interesting to the agriculturist than paying a visit to one or other of the great breweries. There are, in all, 2460 brewers in the United Kingdom, the prin- cipal of whom carry on their business in London. The fol- lowing statement of the malt used by the most eminent London brewers in one year, is supposed to be an average of the consumption for some years past : —
Qrs.
Barclay, Perkins, and Co., Park-street, Soutlrwark . . 115,542
Hanbury and Co., Brick-lane, Spitalfields 105,022
Meux and Co., Tottenham Court Road 59,617
Reid and Co., Liquorpond-street, Gray's Inn-lane . . . 56,640
Whitbread and Co., Chiswell-st., Old-street-road, St Combe and Co., Castle-street, Long Acre Calvert and Co., 89, Upper Thames-street . Mann and Co., Charrington and Co., Thorne and Co., Taylor and Co.,
Luke's 51,800
. 43,282
. . 29,630
. 24,030
. . 22,023
. 21,016
. . 15,870
At Barclay's (the largest, extending over 10 acres) 600 quar- ters of malt are brewed daily. Among the many vats, one is pointed out containing 3500 barrels of porter, which, at the selling price, would yield 9000Z. One hundred and eighty horses are employed in the cartage department. They
7G WATER COMPANIES.
are brought principally from Flanders, cost from 50/. to 80/. each, and are noble specimens of the cart-horse breed. There are four partners in Barclay's house, who conduct every department of it in the most liberal maimer. Their head brewer has a salary of 1000/. a year. The founder of the firm was Henry Thrale, the friend of Dr. Johnson. The business, at Thrale's death, was sold by Johnson and his brother executor, in behalf of Mrs. Thrale, to Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co., for 135,000/. "We are not here," said Johnson on the day of sale, " to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice." Robert Barclay, the first of the name in the firm (d. 1831), was a descendant of the famous Barclay, who wrote the Apology for the Quakers, and Perkins was the chief clerk on Thrale's establishment. While on his tour to the Hebrides, in 1773, Johnson mentioned that Thrale "paid 20,000/. a year to the revenue, and that he had four vats, each of which held 1G00 barrels, above a thousand hogsheads." The amount at present paid to the revenue by the firm is nine times 20,000/.
The visitor should exert his influence among his friends to obtain an order of admission to any one of the largest I have named. Foreigners wearing moustaches had better abstain altogether, remembering the disgraceful treatment which an Austrian officer received in one of these establishments. The best London porter and stout in draught is to be had at the Cock Tavern, 201, Fleet-street, and at the Rainbow Tavern, 15, Fleet-street, immediately opposite. Judges of ale recom- mend John O'Groat's, 61, Rupert-street, Haymarket ; and the Edinburgh Castle, 322, Strand.
WATER COMPANIES.
The cities of London and Westminster, and the borough of Southwark, and certain parishes and places adjacent thereto are at present supplied with water by nine Com- panies, who exercise absolute and irresponsible discretion in the quality, price, and quantity, of the article they sell. These Companies are: — New River Company: East Lon- don Water Works Company ; Southwark ano Vauxhall Watki: Company; West Middlesex Water Works Com- pany; Lambeth Watbb Works Company ; Chblbba Watbb Works Company; Grand .Unction Watbb WOBKfl Com-
NEW RIVER. 77
PANT : Kent "Water Works Company; Hampstead Water Works Company.
The daily supply at present is nearly 46 millions of gallons per day, of which 20 millions are from the Thames, and 26 millions from the New River and other sources. This supply is equal, it is said, to a river 9 feet wide and 3 feet deep, running at two miles an hour.* The City is entirely supplied from the New River and the River Lea ! not by the Thames. The nine companies supply 271,795 tenements ; the New River supplying 83,206 of that number. At present the Thamesf* is at once our cistern and our cesspool.
A proposal was made to Parliament, in 1851, to combine the various water companies into one Company, to be called " The Metropolitan Water Company," the Secretary of State for the Home Department being vested with a power as to quality, price, and quantity, but it was not adopted.
The NEW RIVER is an artificial stream, 38 miles,
3 quarters, and 16 poles in length, about 18 feet wide and
4 feet deep, projected 1608-9, and completed 1620, by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a native of Denbigh, in Wales, and a member of the Goldsmiths' Company, for the purpose of supplying the City of London with water. Nearly ruined by his scheme, Myddelton parted with his interest in it to a company, called the New River Company, in whose hands it still remains, reserving to himself and his heirs for ever an annuity of 100?. per annum. This annuity ceased to be claimed about the year 1715. The river has its rise at Chadswell Springs, situated in meadows, midway between Hertford and Ware, runs for several miles parallel with the river Lea, from which it borrows water at Ware, and at last empties itself into the throats of 600,000 persons, having run nearly double the double number of miles required by a straight line from its source to London. The principal spring, marked by a stone erected by the Company, is now a spacious basin with an islet, containing a monument to Myddelton, erected, in 1800, byMylne, the architect and engineer. The dividend for the year 1633, which is believed to have been the first, was 1 51. 3s. 3c?. A single share bequeathed by Myddelton to the Goldsmiths' Company for charitable purposes, produces 200?. a year. The main of the New River at Islington was, it is said, shut down at the time of the Great Fire of London in
* Mr. Napier's Report to Board of Health, The Times, 12th Nov , 1S50. t The South Lambeth Company now draws its supply from the Thames, at Thames. Ditton, where the water is pure. '
ra BEWTRAl
1666; and it was believed by some, who pretended to the means of knowing, that the supply of water had been stopped by Captain John Graunt, a papist, under whoso name Sir William Petty published his Observations on the Bills of Mor- tality. The story, however, it is reasonable to think, was a mere party invention of those heated times. One of the figures in Tempest's Cries of London, executed and published in the reign of James II., carries " New River Water,"
SEWERAGE.
Tiie ordinary daily amount of London sewerage discharged into the River Thames on the N. side has been calculated at 7,045,120 cubic feet, and on the south side 2,457,600 cubic feet, making a total of 9,502,720 cubic feet, or a quantity equivalent to a surface of more than 36 acres in extent and 6 feet in depth. Of the 9 square miles of the London district on the S. side three miles are from 6 to 7 feet below high water- mark, so that the locality may be said to be drained only for 4 horn's out of the 12, and during these 4 hours very imperfectly. The sewers now empty themselves into the Thames at various levels. "When the tide rises above the orifices of those sewers, the whole drainage of the district is stopped until the tide recedes again, rendering the whole system of Bowers in Kent end Surrey only an art ieulation of cesspools.* Within the City of London alone, which is said to include about 50 miles of streets, alleys, and courts, there are 47* miles of sewerage. Mr. Frank Fanner's scheme (adopted by the General Hoard of Health and the Commie* sioners of Sewers) is to have the aewage of the N. side conveyed, by intercepting Beweri or trunk drains, to a point called the "Pumping Station," on the eastern hank of the river Lea, whence it will be again transferred to a second point four miles distant, on tho bank of the river Ltoding at
the eastern extremity of Galleons Reach, a little below
Blackwall. Here there is to bo a reservoir, in which the
sewago will accumulate during flood tide, and be thenoe effectually discharged during the first 3 hours of tho ebb, so that, according to computation, no portion of it can erer return to our doors. This, it will be Been, gets rid of pools, and supplies I direct drainage instead. The cost, at
• Mr. BtflpbSMOB, in the Timet of lOffa A.«f. 1860.
TOWSH 01 LONDON. 79
the lowest calculation, will be at least a million, exclusive of what may be required for land-purchases and compensations. Of this great work, the Victoria-street sewer, extending from Scotland Yard, Whitehall, through Parliament-square aud Victoria-street, to Shaftesbury-terrace, Pimlico, is now (July, 1851) in operation.
TOWER OF LONDON.
TOWER OF LONDON", the most celebrated fortress in Great Britain, stands immediately without the City walls, on the left or Middlesex bank of the Thames, and "below bridge."
" This Tower," says Stow, " is a citadel to defend or command the City ; a royal palace for assemblies or treaties ; a prison of state for the most dangerous offenders ; the only place of coinage for all England at this time ; the armoury for warlike provisions ; the treasury of the ornaments and jewels of the Crown ; and general conserver of the most records of the King's courts of justice at Westminster." — Stow, p. 23.
Tradition has carried its erection many centuries earlier than our records : —
" Prince. Where shall we sojourn till our coronation ?
" Gloster. Where it seems best unto your royal self. If I may counsel you, some day or two Your highness will repose you at the Tower.
"Prince. I do not like the Tower, of any place. — Did Julius Caesar build that place, my lord?
" Buck. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place, Which since succeeding ages have re-edified.
"Prince. Is it upon record, or else reported Successively from age to age, he built it?
" Buck. Upon record, my gracious lord."
Shakspeare, King Richard III., Act iii., sc. 1.
" This is the way To Julius Caesar's ill-erected Tower."
Sliakspeare, King Richard II., Act v., sc. 1.
" Ye towers of Julius, London's lasting shame, With many a foul and midnight murder fled.
Gray, TJie Bard.
Antiquaries fail to confirm tradition in the remote antiquity assigned to the Tower. No part of the existing structure is of a date anterior to the Keep, or the great white and square tower in the centre, called the White Tower, and this, it is well known, was built by William the Conqueror (circ. 1078), the King appointing Gundulph, Bishop of Rochester, to be
BO TOWBB W LONDON.
principal surveyor and overseer of that work. The chapel in this Tower, now the Record Room, is one of the most complete remaining specimens of a Norman church, on a small scale.
The Tower was formerly accessible by four gates only : the Lions' Gate, on the W. side, where the lions and King's beasts were kept, and still the principal entrance ; by the Water Gate, for receipt of boats and small vessels ; by the Iron Gate, a great and strong gate, but not usually opened ; and by Traitors' Gate, a small postern with a drawbridge, fronting the Thames, seldom let down but for the receipt of some great persons, prisoners.
" On through that gate misnamed, through which before Went Sidney, Russell, Raleigh, Cranmer, More."
Rogers's Human Life.
It was also defended by a broad, deep ditch of water, long an eyesore and unwholesome, more like a sewer than the wet ditch of a fortification ; till it was drained and made a garden, as we now see it, in 1S43. The towers within the fortress are called the Lion Tower ; the Middle Tower ; the Bell Tower, said to have been the prison of Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, and afterwards of Queen Elizabeth ; the Bloody Tower, so called, it is said, from the sons of Edward IV., supposed to have been murdered there, and described by the Duke of Wellington as the best if not the only good place of security, at the disposition of the officers of the Tower, in which state prisoners can be placed ; * the Beauchamp, or Wakefield Tower, on the W. side, the place of imprisonment of Anna Boleyn, and scratched over with inscriptions cut by prisoners confined within its walls, now a repository for the ancient enrolments of Chancery, the most valuable portion, it is said, of the public records ; the Develin Tower ; the Bowyer Tower, on the N. side, where the Duke of Clarence, it is traditionally believed, was drowned in a butt of Malin.-ev : the Brick Tower, on the X.E. side, the prison, it is said, of Lady Jane Grey ; the Martin Tower, near the site of the Jewel House; and the Salt Tower, on the E. side, containing the curious sphere, with the signs of the zodiac. &C., engraved on the walls, May 80th, 1561, by Hugh Draper, of Bristol, committed to the Tower in 1 560, on suspicion of sorcery and practice against Sir William St. I. owe and his lady. It is much to be regretted that the several Towers, more especially the fine old Norman chapel in the White Tower, are not accessible to the public. Tho keeper of the Tower was
Appendix T. to Eighth Report of Deputy Keeper of Public Records.
O K
D
GROUND PLAN OF THE TOWER.
A Lion Tower.
B Middle Tower.
C Bell Tower.
D Lieutenant's Lodgings.
E Bloody Tower.
F Entrance to Armouries*
G Salt Tower.
II Brick Tower,— Lady Jane Grey confined in. I Bowyer Tower,— Duke of Clarence murdered in. K Beauchamp Tower— Anna Boleyn imprisoned in. L Entrance Gate.
82 TOWER OF LONDON.
called the Lieutenant of the Tower, whose lodgings were in the S.W. part of the building, to the left of the Bloody Tower. Opposite to the church, at the S.W. corner of the Tower Green, arc " The Lieutenant's Lodgings," a structure of the time of Henry VIIL, now the residence of the Governor. In a room of this house, called the Council Chamber, the commissioners met to examine Guy Fawkes and his accom- plices; an event commemorated by a curious monument, constructed of party-coloured marbles, and with inscriptions in Latin and Hebrew. In another part of this building is an inscription carved on an old mantelpiece relating to the Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James the First, " com- mitede prysner to thys Logynge for the Mange of her Sonne, my Lord Henry Darnle and the Queene of Scotlande." The present representative of the " Lieutenant " is called Constable of the Tower, an office at present held by the Duke of Wellington. The visitor is conducted over the Tower armouries by the warders of the Tower, who wear the dress of the yeomen of the guard of the reign of Henry VIIL The entrance is by the eastern gate, and tickets must be bought at the Ticket-office, on your right as you enter. The Armoury tickets and the Jewel-house tickets are the same price, 6d. each. The warders conduct parties of twelve in number every half-hour from half-past 10 to 4 inclusive.
The Horse Armoury is contained in a handsome gallery 150 feet long by 33 feet wide, built in 1826 on the south side of the White Tower. The general assignment of the suits and arrangement of the gallery were made by the late Sir Samuel Meyrick, of Goodrich Court, and author of A Critical Inquiry into Ancient Armour. The centre is occupied by a line of equestrian figures, 22 in number, clothed in the armour of various roigns, from the time of Edward I. to James II., (1272 — 1088). Each suit is assigned, for the sake of chrono- logy, to some King or knight, but none are known to havo been worn by tho persons to whom they are assigned, except in a very few instances (such as Henry VIII. ; Dudley, Earl of Leicester; Henry, Prince of Wales; and Charles I.). Observe. — In tho centre of this gallery, suit of the time of Edward I., (1272 — 1307), consisting of a hauberk with sleeves and chausses, and hood with camail ; the emblazoned surcoat and baudric arc modem : the spurs are prick-spura Suit of the time of Henry VI. 0 122 1 161) ; the back and breast- platcs arc flexible armour, the aleeves and skirt of chain mail, the gauntlets fluted, the helmet Q salade armed with a frontlet and surmounted by a crest. Suit of tho time of Edward IV., (HG1— 1483) ; the vamplate or guard of tho
TOWEIl OF LONDON. 83
tilting-lance is ancient, the war-saddle is of later date. Suit of ribbed armour of the time of Richard III. (1483—1485), worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglintoun Tourna- ment. Suit of fluted armour, of German fabric, of the time of Henry VII. (1485—1509), the knight dismounted; the helmet is called a burgonet, and was invented by the Bur- gundians. Suit of fluted armour of the same reign ; the armour of the horse is complete all but the flanchards. Suit of damasked armour, known to have been worn by Henry VIII. (1509 — 1547); the stirrups are curious from their great size. Two suits of the same reign, called Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln. Suit in central recess (behind you) of German workmanship, very fine, and originally gilt, made to com- memorate the union of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Aragon. The badges of this king and queen, the rose and pomegranate, are engraved on various parts of the armour. On the fans of the genouilleres is the Sheaf of Arrows, the device adopted by Ferdinand, the father of Katherine, on his conquest of Granada. Henry's badges, the Portcullis, the Fleur-de-lys, and the Red Dragon, also appear ; and on the edge of the lamboys or skirts are the initials of the royal pair, " H.K.," united by a true-lover's knot. The same letters similarly united by a knot, which includes also a curious love-badge formed of a half rose and half pomegranate, are engraved on the croupiere of the horse. Suit of the time of Edward VI. (1547 — 1553), embossed and embellished with the badges of Burgundy and Granada, and formerly exhibited as the suit of Edward the Black Prince. Suit assigned to Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually worn by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, of the time of Queen Elizabeth; the Earl's initials, R. D., are engraved on the genouilleres, and his cognizance of the Bear and Ragged Staff on the chanfron of the horse. Suit assigned to Sir Henry Lea (1570), and formerly exhibited as the suit of William the Conqueror. Suit assigned to Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (1581), and worn by the King's champion at the coronation of George II. Suit of the time of James I., formerly shown as the suit of Henry IV. Suits assigned to Sir Horace Verc and Thomas, Earl of Arundel, of the time of James I. Suit actually made for Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., richly gilt, and engraved with battles, sieges, &c. Suit assigned to George Villiers, Duke of Buck- ingham, the favourite of James I. Suit made for Charles I., when Prince of Wales. Suit assigned to Wentworth, Earl of Strafford. Richly gilt suit presented to Charles I., when
Q 2
84 TOWER OF LONDON.
Prince of Wales ; this suit was laid on the coffin of the great Duke of Marlborough at his first interment in Westminster Abbey ; the face of the king was carved by Grinling Gibbons. Suit, with burgonet, assigned to Monk, Duke of Albemarle. Suit assigned to James II., but evidently of William Ill.'s reign, from the W.R. engraved on several parts of it; the face was carved by Grinling Gibbons for Charles II. 0h.« rvt . in other parts of the gallery, and in the cabinets, (ask the warder to show them to you,) suit of the time of Henry VIII., formerly exhibited as John of Gaunt' s. Suit, " rough from the hammer," said in the old inventories to have belonged to Henry VIII. Asiatic suit (platform, north side) from Tong Castle, in Shropshire, probably of the age of the Crusades, an 1 the oldest armour in the Tower collection. " Anticke head-piece," with ram's horns and spectacles on it, assigned in the old inventories to Will Somers, Henry VIII.'s jester, aud probably worn by him. Ancient warder's horn of carved ivory. Helmet, belt, straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo Saib. Maltese cannon (of exquisite workmanship, " Philip Lattarellus, delin. et sculp. 1773 ") taken by the French in 1798, and, while on its passage from Malta to Paris, captured by Captain Foote, of the Seahorse frigate; the barrel is covered with figures in alto relievo ; in one part is the portrait of the Grand Master of Malta ; the centre of each wheel represents the sun.
Queen Elizabeth's Armoury is entered from the Horse Armoury by a narrow staircase, ornamented with two coloured carvings in wood, called "Gin and Beer,'' from the old buttery at Greenwich Palace, with a suit of armour, sent to Charles II. by the Great Mogul, and long an object of attraction at the Tower. This interesting room (recently cased witl i wood in the Norman style) is within the White Tower; and the visitor would do well to examine the thick- ness of the walls (fourteen feet thick), and to enter the apartment, dark and small, traditionally reputed to have been the prison of Sir Walter Raleigh. On your left (as you enter the Raleigh sleeping-room) are three inscriptions, rudely carved in the stone (left open for inspection) by prisoners, in the reign of Queen Mary, concerned in the plot oi Sir Thomas Wyatt.
" III. THAT INDVnKTH TO Till: B1TDS SHAM. UK SAVII) M. 10. 15. K
( M i . A v. i.V.:;."
■• i'.i i- a 1 1 1 1 ii i rare inr. I'Kin and I wit. arm ran icaowirtof
Un. T. Fan i ., 1664."
T. Ciii i ii:i: 01 Harford."
Observe.— "Early shields hung round the walls. Two white
TOWER OF LONDON. 85
bows of yew, recovered in 1841 from the wreck of the Mary- Rose, sunk off Spithead in 1515; they are fresh in appearance, as if they had been newly delivered out of the bowyer's hands. Spontoon of the guard of Henry VIII. " Great Holly Water Sprincle with thre gonnes in the top," of the time of Henry VIII. The " Iron Coller of Torment taken from ye Spanyard in ye year 1 588." " The Cravat," an iron instrument for confining at once the head, hands, and feet. Match- lock petronel ornamented with the badges of Hemy VIII., the rose surmounted by a crown and the fleur-de-lys, with, the initials H.R., and other devices. Partizan engraved with the arms of Sir Dudley Carleton, Viscount Dorchester, of the time of Charles I., and formerly exhibited as " the Spanish General's Staff."' Heading-axe, said to have been used in the execution of the Earl of Essex in the reign of Queen Eliza- beth. Block on which Lord Lovat was beheaded, in 1746 ; Lord Lovat was the last person beheaded in this country : it was a neio block for the occasion. Thumbikins, or thumb- screws. A Lochaber axe. Matchlock arquebuse, time of Henry VIII. Shield of the sixteenth century, with the death of Charles the Bold in high relief upon it. The cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec. Sword and belt of the Duke of York, second son of King George III. — The visitor returns by the door by which he entered, and is then conducted to the Jewel-house. Do not fail to ex- amine with attention the cannon and other trophies without the walls of the White Tower, on the south side. Several of these interesting remains of early gunnery were seriously damaged in the great fire of the 30th of October, 1841, in which the storehouse of arms, built in the reign of William III., was burnt to the ground. — Observe. — No. 7, a chamber or gun of the time of Henry VI. No. 17, a portion of a large brass gun of the time of Henry VIII., said to have belonged to the Great Harry, of which we have a representation in the curious picture at Hampton Court. No. 18, a gun of the same reign, and thus inscribed, " Thomas Semeur Knyght was master of the King's Ordynance whan Iohn and Robert Owen Brethren made thys Pece Anno Domini 1546." Iron serpent with chamber, time of Henry VIIL, recovered from the wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead, in 1545. Brass gun taken from the Chinese in 1842, and thus inscribed, "Richard: Philips : made: this: Pece: An: Dni : 1601." Two brass guns, called " Charles " and " Le Temeraire," cap- tured from the French at Cherbourg, in 1758, bearing the arms of France and the motto of Louis XIV., " Ultima ratio regum." Large mortar employed by William III., at the siege of Namur.
86 TOWER OF LONDON.
The Jewel-house within the Tower was kept by a particular Officer called "The Master of the Jewel-house," formerly esteemed the first Knight Bachelor of England. The treasures constituting the Regalia arc arranged in the centre of a well- lighted room, with an ample passage for vision to walk round. Observe. — St. Edward's Crown, made for the coro- nation of Charles II, and used in tho coronations of all our Sovereigns since his time. This is the crown placed by the Archbishop of Canterbury on the head of the Sovereign at the altar, and the identical crown which Blood stole from the Tower on the 9th of May, 1671. — The New State Crown, made for the coronation of Queen Victoria ; composed of a cap of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops of silver, and studded with a profusion of diamonds ; it weighs one pound and three quarters. The large unpolished ruby is said to have been worn by Edward the Black Prince ; the sapphire is of great value, and the whole crown is estimated at 111,900/. — The Prince of Wales's crown, of pure gold, unadorned by jewels.— The Queen Consort's Crown, of gold, set with dia- monds, pearls, &c. — The Queen's Diadem, or circlet of gold, made for the coronation of Marie d'Este, Queen of James II. — St. Edward's staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches in length, surmounted by an' orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike. The orb is said to contain a fragment of the time Cross. — Tho Royal Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold, 2 feet 9 inches in length ; the staff is plain, and the pommel is orna- mented with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The fleurs-de- lys with which this sceptre was formerly adorned have been replaced by golden leaves bearing the rose, shamrock, and thistle. The cross is covered with jewels of various kinds, and has in the centre a large table diamond. — The Rod of Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 Inchei in length, set with diamonds, &c. At the top is an orb, banded with rose diamonds, and surmounted with a cross, on which is the figuro of a dove witli expanded wings. — The Queen's Sceptre with the Cross, smaller in size, but of rich workman- ship, and set with precious stones. — The Queen's Ivory Sceptre (but called the Sceptre of Queen Anna Boloyn). made for Marie d'Kste, consort of James II. It is mounted in gold, and terminated by a golden cross, bearing a dove of white onyx.' — Sci-jitre found behind the wainscot ting of the old Jewel Office, in 1814; supposed to haw been made for Queen Mary, consort of William 111. -The Olb, of gold, C inches in diameter, banded with a lillet of the same metal* set with pearls, and surmounted by a large amethyst sup- porting a cross of gold. — Tho Queen's Orb, of smaller
TOWER OF LONDON. 87
dimensions, but of similar fashion and materials. — The Sword of Mercy, or Curtana, of steel, ornamented with gold, and pointless. — The Swords of Justice, Ecclesiastical and Tem- poral. — The Armillae, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, chased with the rose, fieur-de-lys, and harp, and edged with pearls. — The Royal Spurs, of gold, used in the coronation ceremony, whether the sovereign be King or Queen. — The Ampulla for the Holy Oil, in shape of an eagle. — The Gold Coronation Spoon, used for receiving the sacred oil from the ampulla at the anointing of the sovereign, and supposed to be the sole relic of the ancient regalia. — The Golden Salt Cellar of State, in the shape of a castle. — Baptismal Font, of silver gilt, used at the christening of the Royal children. — Silver Wine Fountain, presented to Charles II. by the corpo- ration of Plymouth.
The Lion Tower, containing the Tower Menagerie (on your right as you enter), was one of the sights of London from the time of Henry III. to the reign of Henry IV., and the removal of the few animals that remained to the Zoological Gardens in the Regent's Park. A century ago the lions in the Tower were named after the reigning Kings ; and it was long a vulgar belief, "that when the King dies, the lion of that name dies after him ; " that the lions in the Tower were the best judges of the title of our British Kings, and always sympathised with our Sovereigns. The Menagerie was removed in November, 1S34. The present Refreshment-room, by the Ticket-house, occupies the site.
Eminent Persons confined in the Tower. — "Wallace. — Mor- timer.— John, King of France. — Charles, Duke of Orleans, father of Louis XII. The duke, who was taken prisoner at the battle of Agincourt, acquired a very great proficiency in our language. A volume of his English poems, preserved in the British Museum, contains the earliest known representation of the Tower, and has often been engraved. — Queen Anna Boleyn, executed, 1536, by the hangman of Calais, on a scaf- fold erected within the walls of the Tower.— Queen Katherine Howard, fourth wife of Henry VIII, beheaded, 1541-2, on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. Lady Roch- ford was executed at the same time. — Sir Thomas More. — Archbishop Cranmer. — protector Somerset. — Lady Jane Grey, beheaded on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. — Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower Hill. — Devereux, Earl of Essex, beheaded on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. — Sir "Walter Raleigh. (He was on three different occasions a prisoner in the Tower ; once in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, on account of his
88 TOWER OF LONDON.
marriage, and twice in the reign of King James I. Here he began his History of the World ; here he amused himself with his chemical experiments ; and here his son, Carew Raleigh, was born.) — Lady Arabella Stuart and her husband, William Seymour, afterwards Duke of Somerset. (Seymour escaped from the Tower.) — Countess of Somerset, (for Over- bury's murder). — Sir John Eliot. (Here he wrote The Monarchy of Man; and here he died, in 1632.) — Earl of Strafford. — Archbishop Laud. — Lucy Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth. (Cromwell discharged her from the Tower in July, 1656.) — Sir William Davenant.— Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham. — Colonel Hutchinson, at the Restoration of Charles II.
" His chamber was a room where 'tis said the two young princes, King Edward the Fifth and his brother, were murdered in former days, and the room that led to it was a dark great room, that had no window in it, where the portcullis to one of the inward Tower gates was drawn up and let down, under which there sat every night a court of guard. There is a tradition that in this room the Duke of Clarence was drowned in a butt of Malmsey ; from which murder this room and that joining it, where Mr. Hutchinson lay, was called the Bloody Tower." — Mrs. Hutchinson.
(Mrs. Hutchinson was the daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, was herself born in the Tower, and, therefore, well acquainted with the traditions of the building.) — Sir Harry Vane, the younger. — Duke of Buck- ingham.— Earl of Shaftesbury. — Earl of Salisbury, temp. Charles II. (When Lord Salisbury was offered his atten- dants in the Tower, he only asked for his cook. The King was very angry.) — William, Lord Russel. — Algernon Sydney. — Seven Bishops, June 8th, 1688. — Lord Chancellor Jefferies, 1688.— The great Duke of Marlborough, 1692.— Sir Robert Walpole, 1712. (Granville, Lord Lansdowne, the poet, was afterwards confined in the same apartment, and has left a copy of verses on the occasion.) — Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1715. — William Shippen, M.P. for Saltash (for saying, in the House of Commons, of a speech from the throne, by George I., "that the second paragraph of the King's speech seemed rather to be calculated for the meridian of Germany than Great Britain ; and that 'twas a great misfortune that the King was a stranger to our language and constitution." He is the " downright Shippen " of Pope's poems). — Bishop Atterbury, 1722.
" How pleasing Atterbury's softer hour, How shone his soul unconquered in the Tower ! " — Pope .
(At his last interview with Pope, Atterbury presented Pope
TOWER OF LONDON. 89
with a Bible. When Atterbuiy was in the Tower, Lord Cadogan was asked, "What shall we do with the man]" His reply was, " Fling him to the lions.") — Dr. Freind. (Here he wrote his History of Medicine.) — Earl of Derwentwater, Earl of Nithsdale, Lord Kenmuir. (Lord Nithsdale escaped from the Tower, Feb. 28th, 1715, dressed in a woman's cloak and hood, provided by his heroic wife, which were for some time after called " Nithsdales." The Earl of Derwent- water and Lord Kenmuir were executed on Tower Hill. The history of the Earl of Nithsdale's escape, contrived and effected by his countess, with admirable coolness and in- trepidity, is given by the countess herself, in an admirable letter to her sister.) — Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat, 174(j. (The block on which Lord Lovat was beheaded is preserved in Queen Elizabeth's Armoury.) — John Wilkes, 1762. — Lord George Gordon, 1780. — Sir Francis Burdett, April 6th, 1810. — Arthur Thistlewood, 1820, the last person sent a prisoner to the Tower.
Persons murdered in. — Hemy VI. — Duke of Clarence drowned in a butt of Malmsey in a room in the Bowyer, or rather, it is thought, Bloody, Tower. — Edward V. and Richard, Duke of York : their supposed remains (preserved in a cenotaph in Westminster Abbey) were found in the reign of Charles II., while digging the foundation for the present stone stairs to the Chapel of the White Tower. — Sir Thomas Overbury. (He was committed to the Tower, April 21st, 1613, and found dead in the Tower on Sept. 14th following. The manner of his poisoning is one of the most interesting and mysterious chapters in English History.) — Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex. (He was found in the Tower with his throat cut, July 13th, 1638.)
Persons horn in. — Carew Raleigh (Sir Walter Raleigh's son). — Mrs. Hutchinson, the biographer of her husband. — Countess of Bedford (daughter of the infamous Countess of Somerset, and mother of William, Lord Russell).
The first stone of the Waterloo Barracks, a large building of questionable style intended to serve as a barrack and ar- moury, loop-holed, and capable of defence, was laid by the Duke of Wellington, June 14th, 1845, on the north side of the White Tower, on the site of the Grand Storehouse, built Jby William III., and burned down in 1841. The principal loss by that conflagration was 280,000 stand of muskets and small arms, ready for use, with a few other of antique make, with flint locks. The ordnance stores in the Tower were estimated in 1849 at 640,023£. The ordnance stores at home and abroad are valued at 6,000,000?. The area of the Tower, within the
90 TOWER HILL.
walls, is 12 acres and 5 poles J and the circuit outside of the ditch is 1050 yards. The portcullis, by the Bloody Tower, has been described by the Duke of Wellington as the only one remaining in England, in a state of repair, and capable of being used.
The high ground to the N.W. of the Tower is called Tower Hill. Till within the last 150 years stood a large scaffold and gallows of timber, for the execution of such traitors or transgressors as were delivered out of the Tower, or other- wise, to the sheriffs of London for execution.
Executions on Tower Hill. — Bishop Fisher, 1535. — Sir Thomas More, 1535.
"Going up the scaffold, which was so weak that it was ready to fall, he said hurriedly to the Lieutenant, ' I pray you, Master Lieutenant, see me safe up, and for my coming down let me shift for myself.' "—Roper's Life.
Cromwell, Earl of Essex, 1540. — Margaret, Countess of Shrewsbury, mother of Cardinal Pole, 1541. — Earl of Surrey, the poet, 1547. — Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley, the Lord Admiral, beheaded, 1549, by order of his brother the Protector Somerset. — The Proctector Somerset, 1552. — Sir Thomas Wyatt. — John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Northumberland, 1553. — Lord Guilford Dudley, (husband of Lady Jane Grey,) 1553-4. — Sir Gervase Helwys, Lieutenant of the Tower, (executed for his share in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury.) — Earl of Strafford, 1641. — Archbishop Laud, 1644-5. — Sir Harry Vane, the younger, 1662. — Viscount Stafford, 1680, beheaded on the perjured evidence of Titus Oates, and others. — Algernon Sydney, 1683. — Duke of Mon- mouth, 1685. — Earl of Dcrwentwater and Lord Kcnmuir, implicated in the rebellion of 1715. — Lords Kilmarnock and Balmcrino, 1746. — Simon, Lord Lovat, 1747, was not only the last person beheaded on Tower Hill, but the last person beheaded in this country.
Lady Raleigh lodged on Tower Hill while her husband was a prisoner in the Tower. William Perm, the founder of Pennsylvania, was born (1644) on the E. side of Tower Hill, within a court adjoining to London Wall. At a public- house on Tower Hill, known by the sign of tho Bull, whither he had withdrawn to avoid Ins creditors, Otway, tho poet, died (it is laid, of want) April 14th, 1685. At a cutler*! shop on Tower Mill. Felton bought tho knifo with which ho Stabbed the first Duke of Buckingham of the. Yilliers family ; it wax a broad. sharp, limiting knife, and cost If. The MOOM duke often ropaircd in disguise to tho lodging of a poor porson, " about Tower Hill," who professed skill in horo- scopes.
THE CHURCH IN THE TOWER. 91
The church of the Liberty of the Tower is called St. Peter's ad Vincula, and consists of a chancel, nave, and N. aisle ; the pier columns are Early English ; but the whole structure has been disfigured so often by successive alterations and additions, that little remains of the original building.
" I cannot refrain from expressing my disgust at the barbarous stupidity which lias transformed this interesting little church into the likeness of a meeting-house in a manufacturing town. ... In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. Death is there associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, with genius and virtue, with public veneration and with imperishable renown ; not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with everything that is most endearing in social and domestic charities ; but with whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the savage triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the ingratitude, the cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame." — Mr. Macaulay's History of England, i. 628.
Eminent Persons interred in. — Queen Anne Boleyn (be- headed 1536).
" Her body was thrown into a common chest of elm-tree, that was made to put arrows in, and was buried in the chapel within the Tower before twelve o'clock." — Bishop Burnet.
Queen Katherine Howard (beheaded 1542). — Sir Thomas More.
" His head was put upon London Bridge ; his body was buried in the chapel of St. Peter in the Tower, in the belfry, or as some say, as one entereth into the vestry, near unto the body of the holy martyr Bishop Fisher." — Cresacre More's Life of Sir Thomas More, p. 2S8.
Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540). Margaret, Countess of Shrewsbury (beheaded 1541). Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudlcy, the Lord Admiral (beheaded 1549), by order of his brother, the Protector Somerset. The Protector Somerset (beheaded 1552). John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland (beheaded 1553).
" There lyeth before the High Altar, in St. Peter's Church, two Dukes between two Queenes, to wit, the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of Northumberland, between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, all four beheaded." — Stoio, by Howes, p. 615.
Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Lord Guilford Dudley (beheaded 1553-4). Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (be- headed 1600). Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower, and buried, according to the register, Sept. 15th, 1618. Sir John Eliot died a prisoner in the Tower, Nov. 27th, 1632; his son petitioned the King (Charles I.) that he would permit his father's body to be conveyed to Cornwall for interment, but the King's answer at the foot of the petition was, " Let Sir John Eliot's body bo buried in the church of that parish where he died." Okey, the regicide. Duke of Monmouth
92 CHURCHES.
(beheaded 1685), buried beneath the communion-table. John Rotier (d. 1703), the eminent medallist, the rival of Simon and father of James and Norbert Rotier, also medal- lists of great merit. Lords Kilmarnock and Balmerino (beheaded 1746). Simon, Lord Lovat (beheaded April 9th, 1747). Colonel Gurwood, to whose industry we owe the "Wellington dispatches (d. 1846). Observe. — Altar-tomb, with effigies of Sir Richard Cholmondeley and his wife ; this Sir Richard Cholmondeley was Lieutenant of the Tower in the reign of Henry VII. Monument, with kneeling figures, to Sir Richard Blount, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1564), and his son, Sir Michael Blount, his successor in the office. Monu- ment in chancel to Sir Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the. Tower (d. 1630), the father of Mrs. Lucy Hutchinson. In- scribed stone on floor of nave, over the remains of Talbot Edwards (d. 1674), Keeper of the Regalia in the Tower, when Blood stole the crown. Here, in the lieutenancy of Alderman Pennington (the regicide Lord Mayor of London), one Kem, vicar of Low Leyton, in Essex, preached in a gown over a buff coat and scarf. Laud, who was a prisoner in the Tower at the time, records the circumstance, with becoming horror, in the History of his Troubles.
CHURCHES.
Of the 9S parish churches within the walls of the City of London, at the time of the Great Fire, 85 were burnt down, and 13 unburnt ; 53 were rebuilt, and 35 united to other parishes. " It is observed and is true in the late Fire of London," says Pepya in his Diary, " that the fire burned just as many parish churches as there were hours from the begin- ning to the end of the Fire ; and next that there were just a> many churches left standing in the rest of the city that was not burned, being, I think, 13 in all of each; which ifl pretty to observe."
The following is the Yearly Value of Church Livings in London : —
St Botolph's, Bishopsgate . .} [ £S
st. Giles's, Cripplegate . . . ... •-•"is
Bt Olave'B, Hsrt-stree1 . . \ ff5*7? \ 18M
St. Andrews, HolbOIU . . . U 1888
st. Catherine Coleman . j [ 1019
St. Bartholomew the Loss, the lowest ... 80
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 93
Lambeth ") before ("£2277
St. Marylebone . . . . )~ the sepa- -s; 1898 St. George's, Hanover-square .) ration. ( 1550
St. James's, Westminster 1468
St. Martm's-in-the-Fields 1258
All Souls', Langham-place 118G
St. Mary's, Islington 1155
St. Luke's, Chelsea 1003
The income of the Bishop of Loudon is above 15,000?. a year, but the bishop's successor will have a fixed income of 10,000Z. ayeamett.
In the following account of the London churches, those which are particularly worthy of attention are alone mentioned.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY, or the Collegiate Church of St. Peter's, "Westminster, originally a Benedictine monas- tery— the "minster west" of St. Paul's, London — founded, it is said, by Sebert, king of the East Saxons, circ. 616 ; en- larged by King Edgar and King Edward the Confessor ; and rebuilt nearly as we now see it by Henry III., and his son Edward I. Here our Kings and Queens have been crowned, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria ; and here very many of them are buried, some with and others without monuments.
The architecture throughout (with the exception of Henry VIL's Chapel and the west towers) is Early English, very rich, and rather late in the style. Henry VIL's Chapel is late Perpendicular, very richly ornamented with panelling, &c. ; and the western towers, erected from the designs of Sir Christopher Wren, are in a debased style of mixed Gre- cian and Gothic.
The Abbey is open to public inspection between the hours of 11 and 3 generally; and also in the summer months be- tween 4 and 6 in the afternoon. The public are not admitted to view the monuments on Good Friday, Christmas Day, or Fast Days, or during the hours of Divine Service. The Nave, Transepts, and Cloisters are free. The charge for admission to the rest of the Abbey (through which you are accompanied by a guide) is 6d. each person. The entrance is at the south transept, better known as Poets' Corner.
The usual plan observed in viewing the Abbey is to examine Poets' Corner, and wait till a sufficient party is formed for a guide to accompany you through the chapels. If you find a party formed, you will save time by joining it at once. You can examine the open parts of the building afterwards at your own convenience. Observe, in the chapels, d-c, through which you are taken by the guide— Part of an
94 WESTMINSTER AHBEY.
altar-decoration of the 13th or 14th century, 11 feet long by 3 feet high (under glass, and on your left as you enter).
"The work is divided into two similar portions; in the centre is a figure, which appears to be intended for Christ, holding the globe, and in the act of blessing ; an angel with a palm branch is on each side. The single figure at the left hand of the whole decoration is St. Titer: the figure that should correspond on the right, and all the Scripture subjects on that side, are gone. In the compartments to the left, between the figure of St. Peter and the centre figures, portions of those subjects remain : the fourth is destroyed. These single figures and subjects are worthy of a good Italian artist of the fourteenth century. The remaining decorations were splendid and costly ; the small compartments in the architectural enrichments are filled" with variously-coloured pieces of glass, inlaid on tinfoil, and have still a brilliant effect. The compart- ments not occupied by figures were adorned with a deep-bin resembling lapis lazuli, with gold lines of foliage executed on it. The smaller spaces and mouldings were enriched with cameos and gems, some of which still remain. That the work was executed in England there can be little doubt."— Eastlake on Oil Painting, p. 17G.
The Jirst chapel you are shown is called the " Chapel of St. Benedict," or the " Chapel of the Deans of the College," several of whom are buried here. The principal tombs are those of Langham, Archbishop of Canterbury (d. 137*5) ; the Countess of Hertford, sister to the Lord High Admiral Nottingham, so famous for his share in the defeat of the Spanish Armada (d. 1598) ; and Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex, and Lord High Treasurer in the reign of James I. (d. 1645).
The second chapel is that of " St. Edmund," containing 20 monuments, of which that on your right as you enter, to William do Valence, Earl of Pembroke, half-brother to Henry III., and father of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem- broke (d. 1296), is the first in point of time and also the most important; the effigy exhibits the earliest existing instance in this country of the use of enamelled metal for monumental purposes. The other tombs and monuments of importance in this chapel are — tomb of John of Elthain, son of Edward II. ; tomb with two alabaster figures, twenty inches in length, representing William of Windsor and Blanch de la Tour, children of Edward III.: monumental brass (the best in the Abbey), representing Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, in her conventual dress, as a nun of Buking Abbey (d. 1899); monumental I n bert de Waldeby,
Archbishop of xbrs (A 1397); effigy of Frances, Duel Suffolk, grand-daughter of Henry \ il.. and mother of Lady Jane Grey; and alabaster statue of Elizabeth Russell, of the Bedford family— foolishly shown for many years as the lady who died by the prick of a needle.
The third chapel is that of '• St. Nicholas," containing the
ND PLAN UF WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
96 WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
monument of the wife of the Protector Somerset ; the great Lord Burghley's monument to his wife Mildred, and their daughter Anne ; Sir Robert Cecil's monument to his wife ; and a large altar-tomb in the area, to the father and mother of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the Stcenie of James I.
The fourth chapel is that of the " Virgin Mary," called * Henry YII.'s Chapel," and entered by a flight of twelve steps beneath the Oratory of Henry V. The entrance gates are of oak, overlaid with brass, gilt, and wrought into various de- vices— the portcullis exhibiting the descent of the founder from the Beaufort family, and the crown and twisted rosea the union that took place, on Henry's marriage, of the White Rose of York with the Red Rose of Lancaster. The chapel consists of a central aisle, with five small chapels at the east end, and two side aisles, north and south ; the banners and stalls appertain to the Knights of the Most Honourable Mili- tary Order of the Bath, an order of merit next in rank in this country to the Most Noble Order of the Garter ; the knights were formerly installed in this chapel; and the Dean of "Westminster is Dean of the Order. The principal monuments in Henry Vll.'s Chapel arc— altar-tomb with effigies of Henry VII. and Queen (in the centre of the chapel), the work of Peter Torrigiano, an Italian sculptor :— Lord Bacon calls it "one of the stateliest and daintiest tombs in Europe:" — the heads of the King and Queen were originally sur- mounted with crowns ; the Perpendicular enclosure or screen is of brass, and the work of an English artist. In South Aisle. — Altar-tomb, with effigy (by Peter Torrigiano) of Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII. Altar-tomb, with effigy of the mother of Lord Darnley. hus- band of Mary, Queen of Scots. Tomb, with effigy (by Cor- nelius Cure) of Mary, Queen of Scots, creeled by .lames I., who brought his mothers body from Peterborough Cathedral, and buried it here. The face is very beautiful, and is Q.OW generally admitted to be the most genuine likeness of the Queen. Monument to George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and his dnche-s ; — the duke was assassinated by Pelton in lu'28: his younger son, Francis, who was killed in the ( 'nil Wars, and his eldest sou. the Becond and profligate duk< buried with their lather in the vault beneath. Statue of the first wife of sir Robert Walpole, erected by her boo, Horace
Walpole, the great letter-writer. ]\\ North Aide. — Tomb, with effigy (by Maximilian Coult) of Queen Kli/.abeth (the
lion-hearted Queen); her sister, Queen Mary, is buried in the rave. Alaba ber cradle, with effigy of Sophia, daughter
of .lames L, who died when only three da\> old : Jamos I.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 97
and Arnie of Denmark, Henry Prince of Wales, the Queen of Bohemia, and Arabella Stuart are buried beneath. Monu- ment to Lodowick Stuart, Duke of Richmond and Lennox, and his duchess, of the time of James I. (La Belle Stuart is buried beneath this monument). Monument to George Monk, Duke of Albemarle, who restored King Charles II. Sarcophagus of white marble, containing certain bones acci- dentally discovered (1674) in a wooden chest below the stairs which formerly led to the chapel of the White Tower, and believed to be the remains of Edward V. and his brother Richard, Duke of York, murdered by order of their uncle, King Richard III. Monuments to Saville, Marquis of Halifax, the statesman and wit (d. 1695);— to Montague, Earl of Halifax, the universal patron of the men of genius of his time (d. 1715), (here Addison and Craggs are buried) — to Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, the patron of Dryden, with its inscription, " Dubius, sed non Improbus, Vixi." Recum- bent figure, by Sir R. Westmacott, of the Duke of Mont- pensier, brother to Louis Philippe, King of the French. The statues in the architecture of this chapel are commended by Flaxman for " their natural simplicity, and grandeur of cha- racter and drapery." Charles II., William and Mary, and Queen Anne are buried in a vault at the east end of the south aisle. George II. and Queen Caroline, — Frederick, Prince of Wales, the father of George III., — and William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, in a vault in the central aisle. The remains of George II. and his Queen lie mingled together, a side having been taken by the King's own direction from each of the coffins for this purpose : the two sides which were withdrawn were seen standing against the wall when the vault was opened for the last time in 1837.
The fifth chapel is " St. Paul's." Observe. — Altar-tomb on your right as you enter to Lodowick Robsart, Lord Bourchier, standard-bearer to Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt. Altar-tomb of Sir Giles Daubeny (Lord Chamberlain to Henry VII.) and his lady. Stately monument against the wall to Sir Thomas Bromlej^, Lord Chancellor of England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; he sat as Chancellor at the trial of Mary, Queen of Scots, at Fotheringay. Monuments to Viscount Dorchester, and Francis, Lord Cottington, of the time of Charles I. Colossal portrait-statue of James Watt, the great engineer, by Sir Fi'ancis Chantrey — cost 60007. ; the inscription by Lord Brougham. Archbishop Usher is buried in this chapel; — his funeral was conducted with great pomp by command of Cromwell, who bore half the expense of it ; the other half fell very heavily on his relations.
98 WtiBTHimraR ABBEV.
The sixth chapel (the most interesting of all) occupies the space at the back of the high altar of the Abbey ; is called the " Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor," or the " Chapel of the Kings," and is entered from the ambulatory by a tem- porary staircase. The centre of this chapel is taken up by the shrine of King Edward the Confessor, erected in the reign of Henry III., and richly inlaid with mosaic work : of the original Latin inscription, only a few letters remain. The wainscot addition at the top was erected in the reign of Mary I., by Abbot Fekcnham. Henry IV. was seized with his last illness while performing his devotions at this shrine. No part of this chapel should bo overlooked. Observe. — Altar-tomb, with bronze effigy of Henry III. (the effigy of the king very fine). Altar-tomb of Edward I., composed of five large slabs of Purbcck marble, and carrying tins appro- priate inscription :- -
" EDWAKDV.-5 PHOtVB PCOTOKVM MALLEUS— IIIC EST."
When the tomb was opened in 1774, the body of the King was discovered almost entire, with a crown of tin gilt upon his head, a sceptre of copper gilt in his right hand, and a sceptre and dove of the same materials in his left : and in this state lie is still lying. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Eleanor, Queen of Edward I. ; the figure of the Queen was the work of Master William Torell, goldsmith, i.e., Torclli, an Italian, and is much and deservedly admired for its simplicity and beauty ; the iron work (recently restored) was the work of a smith living at Leighton Buzzard, in Bedfordshire. Altar- tomb, with effigy of Edward III. ; the sword and shield of state, carried before the King in France, are placed by the side of the tomb. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Philippa, Queen of Edward III. Altar-tonib, with effigies of Richard II. and his Queen. Altar-tomb and chantry of Henry V., the hero of Agincourt ; the head of the King was of solid silver, and the figure was plated with the same metal ; the head was stolen at the Reformation ; the helmet, shield, and saddle of the King arc still to be seen on a bar above the turrets of the chantry. Grey slab, formerly adorned with a rich brftflB figure (a few nails are still to be seen), covering the remain! of Thomas of Woodstock, youngest son of Edward III., mur- dered by order of his nephew, Richard II. Small altar-tomb of Margaret of York, infant daughter of Edward IV. Small altar-tonib of Elizabeth Tudor, infant daughter of Henry VII. much worn, represent ing John de Waltham, Bishop of Salisbury, and Lord High Treasurer of England in the reign <>f Richard II. : Richard loved him so much, that he
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 99
ordered his body to be buried in the Chapel of the Kings. The two Coronation Chairs, still used at the coronations of the Sovereigns of Great Britain — one containing the famous stone of Scone on which the Scottish Kings were crowned, and which Edward I. carried away with him, as an evidence of his absolute conquest of Scotland : this stone is 26 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 11 inches thick, and is fixed in the bottom of the chair by cramps of iron ; it is nothing more than a piece of reddish-grey sandstone squared and smoothed; — the more modern chair was made for the coronation of Mary, Queen of William III. The screen dividing the chapel from the Choir was erected in the reign of Henry VI. : beneath the cornice runs a series of 14 sculptures in bas- relief, representing the principal events, real and imaginary, in the life of Edward the Confessor ; the pavement of the chapel, much worn, is contemporary with the shrine of the Confessor.
The seventh chapel is that of " St. Erasmus," and through it (it has nothing to detain you) you enter the eighth chapel, dedicated to " St. John the Baptist," containing the tombs of several early Abbots of Westminster; Abbot William de Colchester (d. 1420); Abbot Mylling (d. 1492); Abbot Fascet (d. 1500). Observe. — The very large and stately monument to Cary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin and Cham- berlain to Queen Elizabeth. Large altar-tomb of Cecil, Earl of Exeter (eldest son of the great Lord Burghley), and his two wives ; the vacant space is said to have been intended for the statue of his second countess, but she disdainfully refused to lie on the left side. Monument to Colonel Popham, one of Cromwell's officers at sea, and the only monument to any of the Parliamentary party suffered to remain in the Abbey at the Restoration ; the inscription, however, was turned to the wall ; his remains were removed at the same time with those of Cromwell, Ireton, Bradshaw, Blake, &c.
The ninth chapel is that of " Abbot Islip," containing the altar-tomb of Islip himself (d. 1532), and the monument to the great-nephew and eventually heir of Sir Christopher Hatton, Queen Elizabeth's Lord Chancellor. The Hatton vault was purchased by William Pulteney, the celebrated Earl of Bath, who is here interred, and whose monument, by the side of General Wolfe's, is without the chapel, in the aisle of the Abbey. The Wolfe monument was the work of Wilton, and cost 3000/. : the bas-relief (in lead, bronzed over) represents the march of the British troops from the river bank to the Heights of Abraham ; this portion of the monu- ment is by Capizzoldi.
LOO WESTMINSTER AI5BEY.
The E. aisle of the Xorth Transept was formerly divided
by screens into the Chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and St. Andrew. Here arc two of the finest monuments in the A 1.1 icy. Observe. — Four knights kneeling, and supporting on their shoulders a table, on which lie the several parts of a complete suit of armour ; beneath is the recumbent figure of Sir Francis Verc. the great Low Country soldier of Q Elizabeth's reign. Monument by Roubiliac (one of the last and best of his works) to Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale : the bottom of the monument is represented as throwing open able doors, and a sheeted skeleton is seen launching his dart at the lady, who has sunk affrighted into her hus- band's arms. " The dying woman," says Allan Cunningham, " would do honour to any artist. Her right arm and hand are considered by Bculptors as the perfection of fine workmanship. Life seems slowly receding from her tapering fingers and quivering wrist." "When Roubiliac was erecting this monument, he was found one day by Gayfcre, the Abbey mason, standing with his arms folded, and his looks fixed on one of the knightly figures which support the canopy over the statue of Sir Francis Vere. As Gayfere approached, the enthusiastic Frenchman laid his hand on his arm, pointed to the figure, and said, in a whisper, " Hush ! hush ! he vil speak presently."
The Choir, or -cross of the transepts, affords the best point of view for examining the architecture of the Abbey. Observe. — Tomb of Sebert, King of the East Saxons, erected by the abbots and monks of Westminster, in 1308 ; tomb of Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster, second son of Edward III.; tomb of his countess; tomb of Aymer do Valence, Fail of Pembroke (very fine — one of the best views of it is from the N. aisle).
'' The monuments of Armer de Valence and Edmund Cronchback are ppccimi'iis df the magnificence of our sculpture in the reign of the two first Edwards. The loftiness of the work, the nnmher <«f arches and pinnacles, the lightness of tin- spires, the richness and profhaion of foliage and crockets, the Bolemn repose of tin- principal statue, the delicacy of thought in the gronp <>t' angels bearing the soul, ami the tender sentiment of concern variously expressed in the relations ranged in ..rder round the basement, forcibly arresi the attention, and carry the thoughts ii"t only to other ages, bat to other states of existence." - / man,
T<<mb of Ann ofCleves, one of King Henry vJLUL'b six The rich mosaic pavement it an i tot ll< nl specimen of the Opus Aiexandrinum, and was placed here at the expense of Henry [IL, in the year L268. The black mid white pav< we* laid at the expense of Dr. Busby, master of W
School.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 101
Here the guide ceases to attend you, and you are left to your own leisure and information. You now enter the North Transept, where you will Observe. — The inscribed stones covering the graves of the rival statesmen, Pitt and Fox.
u The mighty chiefs sleep side by side ; Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier." — Sir Waller Scolt.
Grattan, Canning, and Castlereagh ; and the following monu- ments— to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, of the time of Charles I. and II. Roubiliac's monument to Sir Peter "Warren, containing his fine figure of Navigation ; Rysbraeh's monument to Admiral Vernon, who distinguished himself at Carthagena ; Bacon's noble monument to the great Lord Chatham, erected by the King and Parliament — cost 6000/.
" Bacon there Gives more than female beauty to a stone, And Chatham's eloquence to marble lips."
Cowper, The Task.
Nollekens's large monument to the three naval captains who fell in Rodney's great victory of April 12th, 1782, erected by the King and Parliament — cost 4000/. ; Flaxman's noble portrait-statue of the great Lord Mansfield, with Wisdom on one side, Justice on the other, and behind the figure of a youth, a criminal, by Wisdom delivered up to Justice — erected by a private person, who bequeathed 2500/. for the purpose ; statue of Sir W. Follett, by Behnes ; small monu- ment, with bust, to Warren Hastings — erected by his widow ; Sir R. Westmacott's Mrs. Warren and Child — one of the best of Sir Richard's works ; and Chantrey's three portrait-statues of Francis Horner, George Canning, and Sir John Malcolm. The statue without an inscription is meant for John Philip Kemble, the actor. It was modelled by Flaxman, and exe- cuted by Hinchcliffe after Flaxman's death. It is very poor. In the N. aisle of the Choir (on your way to the Nave), Observe.— Tablets to Henry Purcell (d. 1695), and Dr. Blow (d. 1708), two of our greatest English musicians — the Purcell inscription is attributed to Dryden; portrait-statues of Sir Stamford Raffles, by Chantrey; and of Wilberforce, by S. Joseph.
Observe in Nave.— Small stone, in the middle of the N. aisle (fronting Killigrew's monument), inscribed, " O Rare Ben Jonson." The poet is buried here standing on his feet, and the inscription was done, as Aubrey relates, " at the charge of Jack Young (afterwards knighted), who, walking
102 WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
here when tho grave was covering, gave the fellow eighteen- pence to cut it." When the nave was re-laid, about fifteen years ago, the true stone was taken away, and the present uninteresting square placed in its stead. Tom Killigrew, the wit, is buried by the side of Jon son ; and his son, who fell at the battle of Ahnanza, in 1707, has a monument imme- diately opposite. Monument, with inscriptions hi Hebrew, Greek, Ethiopic, and English, to Sir Samuel Morland's wives ; — Morland was secretary to Thurloe, Oliver Cromwell's secretary. Monument to Sir Palmes Fairborne, with a fino epitaph in verse by Dryden. Monument to Sir William Temple, the statesman and author, his wife, sister-in-law. and child ; — this was erected pursuant to Temple's will. Monu- ment to Sprat, the poet, and friend of Cowley. (Bishop Atterbury is buried opposite this monument, in a vault which he made for himself when Dean of Westminster, " as far," he says to Pope, " from kings and knesars as the space will admit of.") Monument, with bust, of Sidney, Earl of Godolphin, chief minister to Queen Anne " during the first nine glorious years of her reign." Monument to Heneago Twysden, who wrote the genealogy of the Bickerstaff family in the Tatler, and fell at the battle of Blarcgnics in 1709. Monument to Secretary Craggs, with fine epitaph in verse by Pope. Monument to Congreve, the poet, erected at tho expense of Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough, to whom, for reasons not known or mentioned, he bequeathed a legacy of about 10,000?.
" When the younger Duchess exposed herself by placing a monument and silly epitaph of her <>wn comparing anil bed spelling to Congrere in Westminster Abbey, her mother (rooting the frordl Mid, 'I know not
what pleasure she might have had in his company, hut I am sure it was no honour.' " — Horace Walpolc
In front of Congreve's monument Mrs. Oldfield, the actress, is buried, " in a very fino Brussells lace head," says her maid; "a Holland shift with a tuckor and double ruffles of tho same lace; a pair of now kid gloves, ami her body wrapped up in a winding-sheet." Hence the allusion of the satirist : —
" Odious! in woollen ; 'twould n Mini provoke I fWere tlie Inst wni-iis tii.it poor NareuM spoke) — No, let :i oh&rming chintz and Brussels woe "W i: 1 1 > my cold Umbo, and shade my lifeless face; One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead— And— Betty— give this cheek a little red."
Undor tho organ-scroen — Monuments to Sir Isaac Now ton, designed by Kent, and executed by Rysbrach — cost 600/. ;
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 103
and to Earl Stanhope. Monument to Dr. Mead, the famous physician (d. 1754). Three monuments, by Roubiliac, in three successive windows; to Field-Marshal Wade, whose part in putting down the Rebellion of 1745 is matter of history; to Major-General Fleming, and Lieutenant-General Hargrave. The absurd monument, by Nicholas Read, to Rear-Admiral Tyrrel (d. 1766): its common name is "The Pancake Monument." Heaven is represented with clouds and cherubs, the depths of the sea with rocks of coral and madrepore ; the admiral is seen ascending into heaven, while Hibernia sits in the sea with her attendants, and points to the spot where the admiral's body was committed to the deep. Monument of Major-General Stringer Lawrence erected by the East India Company, " in testimony of their gratitude for his eminent services in the command of their forces on the coast of Coromandel, from 1746 to 1756." Monument, by Flaxman, to Captain Montagu, who fell in Lord Howe's victory of June 1st. Monument to Major Andre, executed by the Americans as a spy in the year 1780 : — the monument was erected at the expense of George III., and the figure of Washington on the bas-relief has been renewed with a head, on three different occasions, " the wanton mischief of some schoolboy," says Charles Lamb, "fired, perhaps, with raw notions of transatlantic freedom. The mischief was done," he adds, — he is addressing Southey, — " about the time that you were a scholar there. Do you know anything about the unfortunate relic ? " This sly allusion to the early political principles of the great poet caused a temporary cessation of friendship with the essayist. — Sir R. Westmacott's monument to Spencer Perceval, First Lord of the Treasury and Chan- cellor of the Exchequer, shot by Bellingham in the lobby of the House of Commons in 1812 ; cost 5250Z. Monuments to William Pitt, cost 6300?. ; and C. J. Fox (there is no inscrip- tion) ; both by Sir Richard Westmacott. Monument, by E. H. Baily, R.A., to the late Lord Holland. Observe. — In south aisle of Choir, recumbent figure of William Thynn, Receiver of the Marches in the reign of Henry VIII. Good bust, by Le Sceur, of Sir Thomas Richardson, Lord Chief Justice in the reign of Charles I. Monument to Thomas Thynn, of Longleat, who was barbarously murdered on Sunday the 12th of February, 1682 ; — he was shot in his coach, and the bas-relief contains a representation of the event.
" A "Welshman bragging of his family, said his father's cfhgy was Bet up in Westminster Abbey: being asked whereabouts, he said, ' In the same monument with Squire Thynn, for he was his coachman.'"— Joe Miller's Jests.
104 WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
Monument to Dr. South, the great divine (d. 1716) ; he was a prebendary of this church. Monument, by F. Bird (in the worst taste), to Sir Cloudesley Shovel (d. 1707). Monument to Dr. Busby, master of Westminster School (d. 1695). Monument to Sir Godfrey Knell er, with fine epitaph in wr.-e by Pope. Monument, by T. Banks, R.A., to Dr. Isaac "Watts, who was buried in Bunhill-fields. Bust, by Flaxman, of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican chief (d. 1807). Monument to Dr. Burney, the Greek scholar ; the inscription by Dr. Parr. In Poets' Corner, occupying nearly a half of the South Transept, and so called from the tombs and honorary monu- ments of Chaucer, Spenser, Shakspeare, and several of our greatest poets, Observe. — Tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of English poetry (d. 1400) ; erected in 1555, by Nicholas Brigham, a scholar of Oxford, and himself a poet ; — Chaucer was originally buried in this spot, Brigham re- moving his bones to a more honourable tomb (a committee has been formed to restore this tomb). Monument to Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene ; erected at the expense of 'Anne Pembroke, Dorset and Montgomery,' and renewed in 177S at the instigation of Mason, the poet; — Spenser died in King-street, "Westminster, " from lack of bread," and was buried here at the expense of Queen Eliza- beth's Earl of Essex. Honorary * monument to Shakspeare ; erected in the reign of George II., from the designs of Kent ; — when Pope was asked for an inscription, he wrote : —
" Thus Britons love me, and preserve my fame, Free from a Barber's or a Benson's name.''
"We shall see the sting of this presently : Shakspeare stands like a sentimental dandy. Monument to Michael Drayton, a poet of Queen Elizabeth's reign, erected by the same 'Anne Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery ; ' the epitaph in verse by Ben Jonson, and very fine. Tablet to Ben Jonson, erected in the reign of George II., a century after the poet's death. Honorary bust of Milton, erected in 1737, at the expense of Auditor Benson : " In the inscription," says Dr. Johnson, u Mr. Benson has bestowed more words upon himself than upon Milton ; " a circumstance that Pope has called attention to in the Dunciad :
"On poets' tombs see Benson's titles Witt."
Honorary monument to Butler, author of Hudibras. erected in 1721, by John Barber, a pi inter, and Lord Mayor of
• The word honorary, as hnv OMtA, is meant t>> imply that the person to whom the monument is erected is buried elsewhere.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 105
London. Grave of Sir William Davenant, with the short inscription, " 0 rare Sir William Davenant." (May, the poet, and historian of the Long Parliament, was originally buried in this grave.) Monument to Cowley, erected at the expense of the second and last Villiers, Duke of Buckingham ; the epitaph by Sprat. Bust of Dryden, erected at the expense of Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham.
" This Sheffield raised : the sacred dust below Was Dryden once : the rest who does not know." — Pope.
The bust by Scheemakers is very fine. Honorary monument to Shadwell, the antagonist of Dryden, erected by his son. Honorary monument to John Philips, author of The Splendid Shilling (d. 1708).
" When the inscription for the monument of Philips, in which he was said to be uni Miltono secundus, was exhibited to Dr. Sprat, then Dean of Westminster, he refused to admit it ; the name of Milton was in his opinion too detestable to be read on the -wall of a building dedicated to devotion. Atterbury, who succeeded him, being author of the inscription, permitted its reception. ' And such has been the change of public opinion,' said Dr. Gregory, from whom I heard this account, that I have seen erected in the church a bust of that man whose name I once knew considered as a pollution of its walls." — Dr. Johnson.
Monument of Matthew Prior, erected by himself, as the last piece of human vanity.
u As doctors give physic by way of prevention,
Mat, alive and in health, of his tombstone took care : For delays are unsafe, and his pious intention May haply be never fulfill" d by his heir.
" Then take Mat's word for it, the sculptor is paid : That the figure is fine, pray believe your own eye ; Yet credit but lightly what more may be said,
For we flatter ourselves and teach marble to lie." — Prior.
The bust, by A. Coysevox, was a present to Prior from Louis XIV., and the epitaph, written by Dr. Friend, famous for long epitaphs, for which he has been immortalised by Pope : —
" Friend, for your epitaphs I griev'd, Where still so much is said ; One half will never be believ'd, The other never read."
Monument to Nicholas Rowe, author of the tragedy of Jane Shore, erected by his widow ; epitaph by Pope. Monument to John Gay, author of The Beggar's Opera ; the short and irreverent epitaph, Life is a jest, <L'c, is his own composition ; the verses beneath it are by Pope. Statue of Addison, by Sir R. Westmacott, erected 1809. Honorary monument to Thomson, author of The Seasons, erected 1762, from the
106 WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
proceeds of a subscription edition of his works. Honorary tablet to Oliver Goldsmith, by Nollekens; the Latin inscrip- tion by Dr. Johnson, who, in reply to a request that he would celebrate the fame of an author in the language in which he wrote, observed, that he never would consent to disgrace the walls of Westminster Abbey with an English inscription. Honorary monument to Gray, author of An Elegy in a Country Churchyard (the verse by Mason, the monument by Bacon, R.A.). Honorary monument to Mason, the poet, and biographer of Gray (the inscription, it is said, by Bishop Hurd). Honorary monument to Anstey, author of the Bath Guide. Inscribed gravestone over Richard Brinsley Sheridan. Hono- rary bust of Robert Southey, by H. Weekes. Inscribed gravestone over Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleasures of Hope, and statue by W. C. Marshall, A.R.A.
In that part of the South Transept not included in Poets' Corner, Observe. — Monument to Isaac Casaubon (1614), editor of Persius and Polybius. Monument to Camden, the great English antiquary (d. 1623) ; the bust received the injury, which it still exhibits, when the hearse and effigy of Essex, the Parliamentary general, were destroyed in 1646, by some of the Cavalier party, who lurked at night in the Abbey to be revenged on the dead. White gravestone, in the ccntro of transept, over the body of Old Parr, who died in 1635, at the great age of 152, having lived in the reigns often princes, viz., Edward IV., Edward V., Richard III., Henry VII., Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I. Gravestone over the body of Thomas ChifHnch, closet-keeper to Charles II. (d. 1666). Monument to M. St. Evremont, a French epicurean wit. who tied to England to escape a government arrest in his own country (d. 1703). Bust of Doctor Isaac Barrow, the divine (d. 1077k Grave- stone over the body of the second wife of Sir Richard Steele, the " Prue " of his correspondence. Monument, by Roubiliac, to John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (d. 1743): the figuro of Eloquence, with her supplicating hand and earnest brow, is very masterly; Canova was struck with its beauty ; he said, "That is one of the noblest statues I have scon in England." Monument by Roubiliac (his last work) to Handel, the great musician, a native of Hallo, in Lower Saxony, and long a resident in England (d. 1759). Honorary monument to Barton Booth, the original Cato in Addison's play. Honorary monument to Mrs. Pritchard, the actress, famous in the charai i Lady Macbeth, Zara, and Mrs. Oakley (d. 1768). Inscribed gravestones over the bodies of David Garrick and Samuel Johnson. Monument to David Garrick, by H. Webber,
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 107
erected at the expense of Albany Wallis, the executor of Garrick.
" Taking a turn the other day in the Abbey, I was struck -with the affected attitude of a figure which I do not remember to have seen before, and which, upon examination, proved to be a whole-length of the celebrated Mr. Garrick. Though I would not go so far with some good Catholics abroad as to shut players altogether out of consecrated ground, yet I own I was not a little scandalised at the introduction of theatrical airs and gestures into a place set apart to remind us of the saddest realities. Going nearer, I found inscribed under this harlequin figure a farrago of false thoughts and nonsense."— Charles Lamb.
Inscribed gravestones over the remains of James Macpherson, translator of Ossian ; and of "William Gifford, editor of Ben Jonson and the Quarterly Review. The painted glass in the Abbey will be found to deserve a cursory inspection ; the rich rose-window in the North Transept is old ; the rose- window in the South Transept the work of Messrs. Thomas Ward and J. H. Nixon (1847). The figures are nearly three feet high, and the whole effect, for a modern window, most excellent. The wax-work exhibition, or The Play of the Dead Volks, as the common people called it, was discontinued in 1839. The exhibition originated in the old custom of making a lively effigy in wax of the deceased — a part of the funeral procession of every great person, and of leaving the effigy over the grave as a kind of temporary monument.
You will now leave the interior of the Abbey, for the purpose of visiting the Cloisters, walking through St. Margaret's church- yard, and entering Dean's-yard, where, on your left, you pass the Jerusalem Chamber, in which King Henry IV. died.
" King Henry. Doth any name particular belong Unto the lodging where 1 first did swoon ?
" Warwick. 'Tis called Jerusalem, my noble lord.
" King Henry. Laud be to God ! — even there my life must end. It hath been prophesied to me many years, I should not die but in Jerusalem ; Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land :— But bear me to that chamber ; there I '11 lie ; In that Jerusalem shall Hany die."
Shakspeare, Second Part of King Henry IV.
Observe. — In S. cloister effigies of several of the early abbots ; large blue stone, uninscribed, marking the grave it is said of Long Meg of Westminster, a noted virago in the reign of Henry VIII. In E. cloister, honorary monument to Sir Edmunds- bury Godfrey, murdered in the reign of Charles II. ; tablet to the mother of Addison, the poet; monument to Lieut.- General Withers, with epitaph by Pope. In W. cloister, monument to George Vertue, the antiquary and engraver ; medallion monument to Bonnell Thornton, editor of the
108 WESTMINSTER ABBET.
Connoisseur — inscription by Joseph Warton ; honorary monument, by T. Banks, R.A., to Woollett, the engraver; tablet to Dr. Buchan, author of a work on Domestic Medicine (d. 1805). In the E. ambulatory, "under a blue marble stone, against the first pillar," Aphra Behn was buried, April 20th, 1689 : and under stones no longer carrying inscriptions, are buried Henry Lawes, " one who called Milton friend ; " Betterton, the great actor ; Tom Brown, the wit ; Mrs. Bracegirdle, the beautiful actress; and Samuel Foote, the famous comedian. A small wooden door, in the S. cloister, leads to Ashburnham House, one of Inigo Jones's best remain- ing works, and the richly-ornamented doorway in the E. cloister to the Chapter-house (an elegant Gothic octagon, supported by massive buttresses), taken from the Dean and Chapter as early as the Reformation, and made a repository for public records. The entrance is in Poets' Corner. Observe. — In 5 compartments on the E. wall, and not unlike an altar-piece, "Christ surrounded by the Christian Virtues," a mural decoration supposed to have been executed about the middle of the 14th century. There are later decorations, on the story of St. John the Evangelist, but poor and feeble in point of execution, compared to the Christ surrounded by the Christian Virtues. The floor of heraldic tiles, now boarded over, where visible, is extremely fine. The roof stood till 1740 ; Wren, it is said, refused to remove it. In the Chapel of the Pix attached to the Abbey is a stone Altar, one of half-a-dozen, not more, that escaped the Reformation and the Great Rebellion. For the Record Curiosities in the Chapter-house, see p. 58.
The following eminent persons are buried in "Westminster Abbey. (The names of those persons buried without monu- ments or inscribed gravestones are printed in italics.) Kings and Queens. — King Sebert ; Edward the Confessor ; Henry III. ; Edward I. and Queen Eleanor ; Edward III. and Queen Philippa ; Richard II. and his Queen ; Henry V. ; Edward V. ; Henry VII. and his Queen ; Anne of Cleves, Queen of Henry VIII. ; Edward VI. ; Mary I. ; Mary, Queen of Scots ; Queen Elizabeth ; James I. and his Queen; Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. and mother of Prince Rupert: Charles II. ; William III. and Queen Mary ; Queen Anne ; George II. and Queen Caroline. Eminent Statesmen. — Lord Chancellor Clarendon ; Savile, Lord Halifax ; Sir William Temple ; Craggs ; Pulteney, Earl of Bath ; the great Lord Chatham ; Pitt, Fox, Canning, and Castloreagh. Eminent Soldiers. — Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke ; Sir Francis Vere ; Prince Rupert; Monk, Duke of Albemarle;
st. Paul's cathedral. 109
William, DuJce of Cumberland, the hero of Cullodeu ; Marshal Wade. Eminent Seamen. — Admiral Dean; Sir W. Spragg; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Sir Cloudesley Shovel. Eminent Poets. — Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Ben Jonson, Michael Drayton, Sir Robert Ayton, Sir W. Davenant, Cowley, Denkam, Roscommon, Dry den, Prior, Congreve, Addison Rowe, Gay, Macpherson, who gave " Ossian " to the public, R. B. Sheridan, and Thomas Campbell. Eminent Actors and Actresses. — Betterton, Mrs. Oldfeld, Mrs. Bracegirdle, Mrs. Gibber, the second Mrs. Barry, Henderson, and David Garrick. Eminent Musicians. — Henry Laives, Purcell, Dr. Blow, Handel. Eminent Divines. — Dr. Barrow, Dr. South. Eminent Antiquaries. — Camden, Spelman, Archbishop Usher. Other Eminent Persons. — Mountjoy, Earl of Devonshire, of the time of Queen Elizabeth; the unfortunate Arabella Stuart; the mother of Henry VII. ; the mother of Lady Jane Grey; the mother of Lord Darnley ; Anne Hyde, Duchess of York, the mother of Queen Mary and Queen Anne ; the wife of the Protector Somerset ; the wife of the great Lord Burghley; the wife of Sir Robert Cecil; the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle (the poet and poetess); the father and mother of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham; Villiers, first Duke of Buckingham, and his two sons, the profligate second duke, and Francis, killed when a boy in the Civil Wars ; the Duchess of Richmond (La Belle Stuart); the second Duke of Ormond, and Atterbury, Bishop of Rochester, all of whom died in banishment ; Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham ; Hakluyt, who collected the early voyages which bear his name ; Sir Isaac Newton ; Dr. Busby, the schoolmaster ; Dr. Johnson, the moralist and lexicographer ; Tom Killigrew and M. St. Evremont, the English and French epicurean wits; Aubrey cle Vere, the twentieth and last Earl of Oxford of the house of Vere ; and old Parr, who died (1635) at the great age of 152. "A Peerage or Westminster Abbey " was one of Nelson's rewards ; and when we reflect on the many eminent persons buried within its walls, it is indeed an honour. There is, however, some truth in the dying observation of Sir Godfrey Kneller — " By God, I will not be buried in Westminster ! They do bury fools there."
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, the most marked feature in the architecture of London, and the noblest building in Great Britain in the Classic style, stands on the site of a former building to the same saint destroyed in the Fire of London. The principal approach to it is by Ludgate-hill, but it is too closely hemmed in by houses to be seen in detail to much
110 st. Paul's cathedral.
advantage. The best general view of it is from the Thames, or Blackfriars Bridge. This is the Cathedral church of the Sec of London. Entrance at the N. door. Divine Service is performed daily at 8 in the morning in the chapel; — at £ before 1 0, and in the afternoon at \ past 3 in the choir. The doors are opened \ of an hour before tho beginning of each service. Visitors arc admitted to inspect tho whole building except during the time of Divine Service.
COST OF ADMISSION.
s. J. Whispering Gallery and two outside Galleries ..06
Ball 16
Library, Great Bell, Geometrical Staircase and
Model Boom 10
Clock 0 2
Crypt and Nelson's Monument 10
4 2
General History. — The ground began to be cleared, and the first stone was laid June 21st, 1675. Divine service was performed for the first time Dec. 2nd, 1697, on the day of thanksgiving for the peace of Ryswick, and the last stono
laid 1710, 35 years after the first. It deserves to be
mentioned that the whole Cathedral was begun and com- pleted under one architect, Sir Christopher Wren ; one master mason, Mr. Thomas Strong; and while one bishop, Dr. Henry Compton, presided over the diocese. The whole cost, 747,9547. 2s. 9c/., was paid for by a tax on every chaldron of coal brought into the port of London, and the Cathedral, it is said, deserves to wear, as it does, a smoky coat in consequence. Exterior. — The general form or ground-plan is that of a Latin cross, with lateral projections at the W. end of the nave, in order to give width and importance to the W. front. Length from E. to W., 500 feet ; breadth of tho body of the church, 100 feet ; campanile towers at tho W. end, each 222 feet in height; and the height of the whole structure, from tho pavement in the street to the top of the cross, 404 feet. Immense as the building looks and is, it could actually stand within St. Peter's at Rome. The outer dome is of wood, covered with lead, and does not support the lantern on the top. which rests on a cone of brick raised between tho inner cupola and outer dome. Tho courso of balustrade at the top was forced on "Wren by the com- missioners for the building. " I never designed I balustrade." he says ; " ladies think nothing well without an edging." The sculpturo on the entablature (the Conversion of St. PaxuV the statues on the pediment (St. Paul, with St. Peter and
Statue of Queen Anne. GROUND PLAN OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.
112 ST. Tail's CATHEDRAL.
St. James on cither side), and the statue of Queen Anne, in front of the building, with the four figures at the angles, are all by F. Bird. The Phoenix over the S. door was the work of Cibbcr. The iron railing, of more than 2500 palisad. cast at Lamberhurst, in Kent, at a cost of 11,202/. Qs. 6(/., and encloses upwards of two acres of ground. Observe. — The double portico at the W. end : the beautiful semicircular porticos, N. and S. ; the use of two orders of architecture (Composite and Corinthian); and the general breadth and harmony of the whole building. The circular columns at the base of the stone gallery are, it is said, too tall for the length of the pilasters in the body of the building. Interior. — The cupola, with the paintings upon it, is of brick, two bricks thick, with stone bandings at every rise of 5 feet, and a girdle of Portland stone at the base, con- taining a double chain of iron strongly linked together at every 10 feet, and weighing 95 cwt. 3 cp-s. 23 lbs. The defect of the interior is its nakedness and want of ornament. Another defect, the side oratories, was added to the original design, by order of the Duke of York (afterwards James II.), who was willing to have them ready for the popish service. The alteration narrowed the building, and broke in very much upon the beauty of the design. Sir Christopher shed teai's in speaking of the change ; but it was all in vain. The Duke absolutely insisted upon their being inserted and Wren was obliged to comply. The paintings, 8 in number (by Sir James Thornhill), represent the principal events in the life of St. Paul. They arc fast decaying and were worth much. It was Wren's intention to have decorated the cupola with the more durable ornament of mosaic work, but in this he was ovemded. Observe. — In the choir the beautiful foliage, carved by Grinling Gibbons, and over the entrance to the choir the inscription to Wren (Si monumentum requiris, drcumspice), put there by Mylne, architect of Blackfriars Bridge. The organ (1694) was constructed by Bernard Schmydt, the successful candidate against Harris at the Temple. The golden gallery was erected at the expense of the Earl of Laaesborough, the "sober Lanesborough dancing with the gout" of Pope. Addison, in Spectator No. 50, makes the Indian King suppose that St Paul's was carved outofa rock. The Monuments may be divided into two classes: — monu- ments to illustrious men. made additionally interesting as fine works of art, and those only interesting from the illus- trious persons they are designed to commemorate. Among the Avorks of art, Observe, — Statue of John Eoward, the philanthropist, by Bacon, ELA. (cost 1300 guineas, and was
st. Paul's cathedral. 113
the first monument erected in St. Paul's) ; statue of Dr. Johnson, by Bacon, R.A. ; statue of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Flaxman, R.A. ; kneeling figure of Bishop Heber, by Chantrey, R.A.; monument to Nelson, by Flaxman, R.A., (the hero's lost arm concealed by the union Jack of England); monument to Lord Cornwallis, opposite, by Rossi, R.A., (the Indian river gods much admired) ; monument to Sir Ralph Abercrombie, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A. Among the monuments interesting from the persons they commemorate, Observe. — Monument to Sir John Moore, who fell at Corunna, (Marshal Soult stood before this monument and wept) ; statue of Lord Heathfield, the gallant defender of Gibraltar; monuments to Howe and Rodney, two of our great naval heroes ; monument to Nelson's favourite, the brave and pious Lord Collingwood ; statue of Earl St. Vincent, the hero of the battle of Cape St. Vincent ; monuments to Picton and Ponsonby, who fell at Waterloo; statues of Sir William Jones, the Oriental scholar, Sir Astley Cooper, the surgeon, Dr. Babington, the physician, &c. Iu the Crypt,— Observe. — Grave of Sir Christopher Wren (d. 1723, aged 91).' — Grave of Lord Nelson (d. 1805). The sarcophagus, which contains Nelson's coffin, was made at the expense of Cardinal Wolsey, for the burial of Henry VIII. in the tomb-house at Windsor; and the coffin, which contains the body (made of part of the mainmast of the ship L'Orient), was a present to Nelson after the battle of the Nile, from his friend Ben Hallowell, captain of the Swiftsure. " I send it," says Hallowell, u that when you are tired of this life you may be buried in one of your own trophies." Nelson appreciated the present, and for some time had it placed upright, with the lid on, against the bulk- head of his cabin, behind the chair on which he sat at dinner. — Grave of Lord Collingwood (d. 1810), commander of the larboard division at the battle of Trafalgar. — Graves of the following celebrated English painters : — Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792); Sir Thomas Lawrence (d. 1830); James Barry (d. 1806); John Opie (d. 1807); Benjamin West (d. 1820); Henry Fuseli (d. 1825).— Graves of the following eminent engineers : — Robert Mylne, who built Blackfriars Bridge (d. 1811); John Rennie,vwho built Waterloo Bridge (d. 1821). Monuments fvom Old St. Paul's, preserved in the crypt of the present building. — Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul's School ; Sir Nicholas Bacon, father of the great Lord Bacon ; Sir Christopher Hatton, Queen Elizabeth's Lord Chancellor ; Dr. Donne, the poet, in his shroud, by Nicholas Stone, and described by Izaak Walton in his Life of Donne. Ascent. — The ascent to the ball is by 616 steps, of which
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114 st. faul's cathedral.
the first 260 are easy, aud well-lighted. Here the Whispering Gallery will give you breath ; but the rest of the ascent is a dirty and somewhat fatiguing task. Clock Room. — In the south-western tower is the clock, and the great bell on which it strikes. The length of the minute-hand of the clock is 8 feet, and its weight 75 lbs. ; the length of the hour-hand is 5 feet 5 inches, and its weight 44 lbs. The diameter of the bell is about 10 feet, and its weight is generally stated at 44; tons. It is inscribed, "Richard Phelps made me, 1716," and is never used except for the striking of the hour, and for tolling at the deaths and funerals of any of the royal family, the Bishops of London, the Deans of St. Paul's, and, should he die in his mayoralty, the Lord Mayor. The larger part of the metal of which it is made formed " Great Tom of West- minster," once in the Clock Tower at Westminster. The Library is not very valuable. TJie Model Room contains, in a shamefully dirty mutilated state, Wren's first and favourite plan for the rebuilding of the Cathedral. This is quite a study, and additionally interesting, as it shows how well Wren was aware of the difficulties he had to contend with in his art, and how completely he had foreseen the minor ob- jections raised to the minute details of particular parts of the present building. The dome, however, of the present Cathedral is surely finer that any part of the rejected model] The Whispering Gallery is so called, because the slightest whisper is transmitted from one side of the gallery to the other with great rapidity and distinctness. The Stone Gallery is an outer gallery, and affords a fine view of London on a clear day. The Inner Golden Gallery is at the apex of the cupola and base of the lantern. The Outer Golden Gallery is at the apex of the dome. Here you may have a noble view of London if you will ascend early in the morning, and on a clear day. The Ball and Cross stand on a cone between the cupola and dome. The construction is very interesting, and will well repay attention. The ball is in diameter 6 feet 2 inches, and will contain 8 persons, "without," it is said, " particular inconvenience." This, however, may well be doubted. The weight of the ball is stated to be 5600 lbs., and that of the cross (to which there is no entrance) 3300 lbs. The last public procession to St. Paul's was on a Thursday, July 7th, 1814, when the Duke of Wellington carried the sword of state before the Prince Regent, on the day of general thanksgiving for the peace.
Haydn said that the most powerful effect he ever felt from music was from the singing of the charity children in St. Paul's. Endeavour to attend at one of the festivals when
ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT ST. SAVIOUR. 115
the charity children attend. The festival is held on the first Thursday in June. [See Calendar.]
What is called St. Paul's Churchyard is an irregular circle of houses enclosing St. Paul's Cathedral and burial- ground, of which the side towards the Thames is commonly called the bow, and the side towards Paternoster-row the string. The statue of Queen Anne, before the W. front of the church, was the work of Francis Bird, a poor sculptor, whose best work is his monument to Dr. Busby, in West- minster. Mr. Newberry's shop at the corner of St. Paul's Church-yard is now held by Messrs. Grant and Griffiths, who still deal, like their predecessor, in children's books.
St. BARTHOLOMEW the GREAT, West Smithfield, in the ward of Farringdon Without, was the choir and transept of the church of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded in the reign of Henry I. (circ. 1102), by Rahere, " a pleasant- witted gentleman, and therefore in his time called the King's minstrel." This unquestionably is one of the most inter- esting of the old London churches. There is much good Norman work about it, and its entrance gate from Smithfield is an excellent specimen of Early English with the toothed orna- ment in its mouldings. Parts, however, are of the Perp. period, and the rebus of Prior Bolton, who died in 1532 (a bolt through a tun), fixes the date when the alterations were made. The roof is of timber. At the W. end are parts of the transepts and nave, in a later style of architecture, and worth examination. The clerestory is Early English. On the north side of the altar is the canopied tomb, with effigy, of Rahere, the first Prior of his foundation. It is of a much later date than his decease, and is a fine specimen of the Perp. period. Over against the founder's tomb is the spacious monument to Sir Walter Mildmay, Under-Chan- cellor of the Exchequer in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge (d. 1589). The other monuments are of very little importance, unless we except the bust (near Mildmay's monument) of James Rivers (d. 1641), probably the work of Hubert Le Soeur, who lived in Bartholomew-close, hard by. The parish register records the baptism (Nov. 28th, 1697) of William Hogarth, the painter.
St. SAVIOUR, Southwark, was the church of the Priory of St. Mary Overy, and was first erected into a parish church by Henry VIII. in 1540. After Westminster Abbey, St. Saviour's, Southwark, contains the finest specimens of Early English in London. Nothing, however, remains of the old
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116 ST. SAVIOUR.
church but the choir and the Lady chapel. The nave was taken down about twenty years ago, and the present un- sightly structure erected in its stead. The altar-screen in the choir (much like that at Winchester) was erected at the expense of Fox, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1528). In the string-course is Fox's favourite device, the pelican. The choir was restored in 1822, and the Lady chapel in 1832. In the reign of Mary I. the Lady chapel of St. Saviour's was used by Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1555), as a con- sistorial court. Monuments. — Effigy of knight cross-legged, in north aisle of choir. To John Gower, the poet (d. 1402) ; a Perp. monument, originally erected on the N. side of the church, in the chapel of St. John, where Gower founded a chantry. The monument was removed to its present site, and repaired and coloured in 1832, at the expense of Gower, first Duke of Sutherland.
" He [Gower] lieth under a tomb of stone, with his image also of stone over him : the hair of his head, auburn, long to his shoulders but curling up, and a small forked beard ; on his head a chaplet like a coronet of four roses ; a habit of purple, damasked down to his feet ; a collar of esses gold about his neck; under his head the likeness of three books which he compiled." — Stow, p. 152.
Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1626); a black and white marble monument in the Lady chapel, with his effigy at full-length. When St. John's chapel was taken down, his leaden coffin was found, with no other inscription than L.A. (the initials of his name). John Trehearne, gen- tleman porter to James I. ; half-length of himself and wife (upright). John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth and James I. (d. 1625). Alderman Humble. Lockyer, the famous empiric in Charles II.'s reign (d. 1672) ; a rueful full-length figure in N. transept. Eminent Persons buried in, and graves unmarked. — Sir Edward Dyer, Sir Philip Sydney's friend ; he lived and died (1607) in Winchester House, adjoining. Edmund Shakspeare, "player" (the poet's youngest brother), buried in the church, 1607. Lawrence Fletcher, one of the leading shareholders in the Globe and Blackfriars Theatres, and Shakspeare's " fellow ; " buried in the church, 1608. Philip Hcnslowe, the manager, so well known by his curious Account Book or Diary ; buried in the chancel, 1615-16. John Fletcher (Beaumont's associate), buried in the church, 1625. Philip Massinger (the dramatic poet), buried in the churchyard, March 18th, 1838-9. The houses in Doddington-grove, Kcnnington, are built on the three-feet surface of earth removed from the " Cross-Bones Burial Ground" of St. Saviour's, Southwark.
THE TEMPLE CHURCH. 117
The TEMPLE CHURCH, a little south of Temple Bar, was the church of the Knights Templar, and is divided into two parts, the Round Church and the Choir. The Round Church (transition Norman work) was built in the year 1185, as an inscription in Saxon characters, formerly on the stone- work over the little door next the cloister, recorded, and dedicated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem ; the Choir (pure Early English) was finished in 1210. The restorations and alterations, made 1839-42, at a cost of 70.000J., amount- ing nearly to the re-constiaiction of the Choir, are in correct twelfth and thirteenth century taste. The monuments to several distinguished men, architecturally out of place, were removed from the arcades and compartments in which they were first erected, and are now placed in the Triforium. Off the cork-screw stairs leading to the gallery is a so-called Penitential Cell. Observe. — Entrance doorway (very fine) ; two groups of monumental effigies, in Round Church, of Knights Templar, cross-legged (names unknown, at least very uncertain) ; the figure between the two columns on the S.E. having a foliage-ornament about the head, and the feet resting upon a lion, represents, it is said, William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke (d. 1119), Earl Marshal and Protector of Englaud during the minority of Henry III. ; monument of white marble, left of altar, to the learned Selden (d. 1654 ; ho is buried beneath) ; and in the Triforium (ascended by a narrow staircase), the tombs of Plowden, the jurist; Martin, to whom Ben Jonson dedicates his Poetaster; Howell, the letter-writer (d. 1666) ; Edmund Gibbon (ancestor of the historian, and referred to by him in his Autobiography). In the burial-ground east of the choir, lies Oliver Goldsmith. The place is undistinguished ; but a tablet recently erected in a recess on the north side of the Choir commemorates the circumstance. The Round of this church was used as a place where lawyers received their clients, each occupying his particular post, like a merchant upon 'Change. The preacher at the Temple is called Master of the Temple, and was once an office of greater dignity and reputation than it is now. The learned and judicious Hooker, author of the Ecclesiastical Polity, was for six years Master of the Temple — " a place," says Izaak Walton, " which he accepted rather than desired." Travers, a disciple of Cartwright, the Non- conformist, was then lecturer; and Hooker, it was said, preached Canterbury in the forenoon, and Travers Geneva in the afternoon. The Benchers were divided ; and Travers, being first silenced by the Archbishop, Hooker resigned, and in his quiet parsonage of Boscombe renewed the contest in
118
print, in his Ecclesiastical Polity. In this church Archbishop Usher preached the funeral sermon of the learned Selden. The organ was made by Father Schmydt, or Smith, in honourable competition with a builder of the name of Harris. Blow and Purcell, then in their prime, performed on Father Smith's organ on appointed days ; and till Harris's was heard, every one believed that Smith's must be chosen. Harris employed Baptiste Draghi, organist to Queen Cathe- rine, " to touch his organ," which brought it into favour ; and thus the two continued vieing with each other for near a twelvemonth. The decision at length was left to the noto- rious Judge Jefferies, who decided in favour of Father Smith. Smith excelled in the diapason, or foundation stops ; Harris principally in the reed stops. The choral services on a Sunday are well performed, and well attended. The Round of the church is open to all, but the Choir is reserved for the Benchers and students. Strangers are admitted by the introduction of a member of either Temple. The keys of the church are with the porter, at the top of Inner Temple-lane.
ST. HELEN'S, Bishopsgate Street, on the E. side of Bishopsgate-steet Within, near its j unction with Gracechurch- street, the church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Helen's, founded (circ. 1216) by "William, the son of William the Goldsmith," otherwise William Basing, Dean of St. Paul's. The interior is divided into two aisles, of nearly equal pro- portions, with a small transept abutting from the main building. There is little in the architecture to attract atten- tion, in general design or even in detail. The windows are irregular — the roof poor and heavy, but the monuments are old, numerous, and interesting. Observe. — Sir John Crosby, Alderman (d. 1475), and Ann, his wife, the founder of Crosby Hall ; an altar-tomb, with two recumbent figures, the male figure with his alderman's mantle over his plate armour. - Sir Thomas Gresham (d. 1579), the founder of the Royal Exchange ; an altar-tomb, with this short inscription on the surmounting slab : — (i Sir Thomas Gresham, Knight, buried Dec. loth, 1579." This monument was never completed, nor was there any inscription on the slab when Pennant drew up his account in 1790. Stow tells us thut it was Gresham's intention to have built a new steeple to the church M in re- compense of ground filled up with his monument." — John Lementhorp (d. 1510), in armour; a brass. — Sir William Pickering, and his son, (d. 1542, d. 1574) ; a recumbent figure of the father in armour, beneath an enriched marble canopy. — Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor (d. 1558); a monument
ST. rANCRAS-IN-TIIE-FIKLDS. 119
against the wall, with male and female figures kneeling at a desk. This Six- Andrew Judd (who is here represented in armour) was founder of the Free Grammar School at Tun- bridge, and of the Almshouses in the neighbourhood which bear his name. The inscription is curious ; but the name is a recent addition. — Sir Julius Caesar (d. 1636), Master of the "Rolls, and Under-Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the reign of James I. : the same Sir Julius Csesar of whom Lord Claren- don tells the amusing story, " Remember Csesar."
" His epitaph is cut on a black slab, in front of a piece of parchment, with a seal appendant, by which he gives his bond to Heaven to resign his life willingly whenever it should please God to call him. ' In cujus rei testimonium manum meam et sigillum apposui.' " — Pennant.
This monument was the work of Nicholas Stone, and cost 1107. — Sir John Spencer, Lord Mayor in 1594, from whom the Marquis of Northampton derives the Spencer portion of his name, Spencer-Compton. Sir John Spencer bought Crosby House, and kept his mayoralty in it in 1594. — Francis Bancroft, the founder of the Almshouses which bear his name.
" He is embalmed in a chest made with a lid, having a pair of hinges without any fastening, and a piece of square glass on the lid just over his face. It is a very plain monument, almost square, and has a door for the sexton, on certain occasions, to go in and clear it from dust and cobwebs." — NoorthoucKs Hist, of Lond., 4to, 1773, p. 557.
ST. PANCRAS- in -the- FIELDS, (old church) in the northern part of London, is an interesting little church recently enlarged by Mr. A. D. Gough. The burial-ground, of less than 4 acres, has been used as a place of sepulture for at least six centuries, and contains the remains of at least 20 generations. The monuments deserve examination. Observe. — Against S. wall of chancel a tablet, surmounted by a palette and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the miniature painter to whom Cromwell sat so often (d. 1672) : the arms are those of Sir Edward Turner, Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of Charles II., at whose expense it is probable the monument was erected. In the churchyard, near the church door, and on your right as you enter, is a headstone to William Woollett, the engraver (d. 1785), and his widow (d. 1819). At the further end of the churchyard, on the N. side, is an altar-tomb to William Godwin, author of Caleb Williams (d. 1836), and his two wives ; Mary Wolstonecraft Godwin, author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, the mother of Mrs. Shelley (d. 1797) ; and Mary Jane (d. 1841). Near the sexton's house is a headstone to John
120 SAVOY CHURCH.
Walker, author of the Pronouncing Dictionary of the English Language (d. 1807). The several footways in this crowded churchyard are laid with fragments of broken tombstones, some perhaps of interest ; for here were buried, as the register records: — Abraham Woodhead (d. 1678), reputed by some to have been the author of The Whole Duty of Man. Wood gives a long account of him, and adds, "that ho was buried in the churchyard of St. Pancras, about 22 paces from the chancel, on the S. side. Afterwards was a raised altar-monument, built of brick, covered with a thick plank of blue marble, put over his grave." — Jeremy Collier (d. 1726), the writer against the immorality of the stage in the time of Dryden. — Ned Ward (d. 1731), author of the London Spy. His hearse was attended by a single mourning coach, con- taining only his wife and daughter, as he had directed it should be in his poetical will, written six years before he died. — Lewis Theobald (d. 1741), the hero of the early editions of the Dunciad, and the editor of Shakspeare. In this church (Feb. 13th, 1718-19), Jonathan Wild was married to his third wife.
ST. MARY LE SAVOY lies between the River and the Strand, and was the chapel of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, in the Savoy, a palace so called, built in 1245 by Peter, Earl of Savoy and Richmond, uncle unto Eleanor, wife to King Henry III. It is a Perp. chapel, late and plain, with the exception of the ceiling, which is very rich and coloured, and is the only remains of the old palace. The E. end has been ornamented with tabernacle work, of which one niche remains ; but the greater part has been cut away to make places for modern monuments. It is now a precinct or parish church, and called (but improperly) St. Mary-le-Sav03r. The altar window, recently glazed at the expense of the con- gregation, contains the figure of St. John the Baptist. Observe. — Recumbent figure (size of life) of the Countess Dowager of Nottingham (d. 16S1); but this monument, it is thought, is improperly named. Tablet to Mrs. Anne Killi- grew (d. 1685) ; Dryden wrote a poem on her death. Brass, on floor, about 3 feet S. of the stove in the centre of the chapel, marking the grave of Gawain Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld (d. 1522), the translator of Virgil. Monument by M. L. Watson, erected 1846, to Dr. Cameron, the last person executed on account of the rebellion of 1745. Tablet, erected by his widow, to Richard Lander, the African traveller (d. 1834). Eminent. Pertone interred here without innnuments. — George, third Earl of Cumberland, father of Lady Anno
st. Paul's, covent garden. 121
Clifford, died in the Duchy House in 1605 ; bowels alone buried here. George Wither, the poet (d. 1667), "between the E. door and S. end of the church." Lewis de Duras, Earl of Faversham (d. 1709); he commanded King James II.'s troops at the battle of Sedgemoor.
The meetings at the Restoration of Charles II. of the com- missioners for the revision of the Liturgy took place in the Savoy ; twelve bishops appearing for the Established Church ; and Calamy, Baxter, Reynolds, and others, for the Presbyterians. This was called " The Savoy Conference,' and under that name is matter of English history. Fuller, author of The Worthies, was at this time lecturer at the Savoy, and Cowley, the poet, a candidate at Court for the office of master.
ST. PAUL'S, Coven? Garden, on the W. side of the market, was built by Inigo Jones, circ. 1633, at the expense of the ground landlord, Francis, Earl of Bedford; repaired, in 1727, by the Earl of Burlington ; totally destroyed by fire, Sept. 17th, 1795; and rebuilt (John Hard wick, architect) on the plan and in the proportions of the original building. The parish registers record the baptism of Lady Mary Wortley Montague, and the burials of the following Eminent Persons. — The notorious Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset (d. 1645). — Samuel Butler (d. 1680), author of Hudibras. He died in Rose-street.
"He [Butler] dyed of a consumption, Septemb. 25, (Anno DD>- 1680), and buried 27, according to his owne appointment in the church-yard of Covent Garden ; sc. in the north part next the church at the east end. His feet touch the wall. His grave, 2 yards distant from the pilaster of the dore (by his desire), 6 foot deepe. About 25 of his old acquaintance at his funerall : I niyself being one." — Aubrey s Lives, ii. 263.
Sir Peter Lely, the painter (d. 1680). His monument, with his bust by Gibbons, and his epitaph by Flatman, shared the fate of the church when destroyed by fire in 1795. — Edward Kynaston (d. 1712), the celebrated actor of female parts at the Restoration ; a complete female stage beauty. William Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist. He died in Bow-street. — Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the sculptor and carver in wood. — Susannah Centlivre (d. 1723), author of The Busy Body and The Wonder. — Dr. Arne, the composer of Rule Britannia (d. 1778). — Dr. John Armstrong, author of the Art of Preserving Health, a poem (d. 1779). — Sir Robert Strange, the engraver (d. 1792.) — Thomas Girtin, the father of the school of English water colours (d. 1802). — Charles Macklin, the actor (d. 1797), at the age of 107.— John Wolcot (Peter
12:2 BOW CHURCH.
Pindar), d. 1819. In front of this church the hustings are raised for the general elections of Westminster. Here, before the Reform Bill, raged those fierce contests of many days' duration in which Fox, Sir Francis Burdett, and others were popular candidates.
ST. MARY LE BOW, in Cheapside, commonly called " Bow Church," is one of Wren's masterpieces. " The steeple," says Horace Walpole, " is much admired ; for my part," he adds, " I never saw a beautiful modern steeple." Observe. — The fine old Norman crypt : Wren used the arches of the old church to support his own superstructure. It is now a vault, and concealed in parts by piles of coffins ; the interior is poor. " Bow-bells " have long been and are still famous.
" In the year 1469 it was ordained by a Common Council that the Bow- Bell should be nightly rung at nine of the clock. Shortly after, John Donne, mercer, by his testament dated 1472, gave to the parson and churchwardens two tenements in Hosier Lane to the maintenance of Bow Bell, the same to be rung as aforesaid, and other things to be observed as by the will appeareth. This Bell being usually rung some- what late, as seemed to the young men, prentices, and others in Cheap, they made and set up a rhyme against the clerk as followeth : ' Clerk of the Bow Bell, with the yellow lockes, For thy late ringing thy head shall have knocks.' "VVhereunto the Clerk replying wrote :
' Children of Cheape, hold you all still, For you shall have the Bow Bell rung at your will."
Stow, p. 96.
People bora within the sound of Bow-bells are usually called Cockneys. Beaumont and Fletcher speak of " Bow-bell suckers," i. e., as Mr. Dyce properly explains it, " children born within the sound of Bow-bell." The present set of bells, ten in number, were cast and set up in 1762. All differ in weight, — the smallest weighing 8 cwt. 3 qrs. 7 lbs., and the largest 53 cwt. 22 lbs. Pope has confirmed the reputation of these bells in a celebrated line : —
" Far as loud Bow's stupendous bells resound." The dragon on the steeple is 8 feet 10 inches long. The Court of Arches (an Ecclesiastical Court so called) derives its name from the arched vault under Bow Church, in which the court was originally held — the church itself derives its name from its being the first church in London built on arches of stone. The balcony in the tower overlooking Cheapside had its origin in the old Beldam or shed in which our kings used to sit to see the jousts and ridings in Cheapside.
ST. BRIDE, or ST. BRIDGET, Fleet-street, one of Wren's
ST. STEPHEN, WALBROOK. 123
architectural glories, was completed in the year 1703, at the cost of 11,430/. The steeple, much and deservedly admired, was, as left by Wren, 234 feet in height, but in 1764, when it was struck with lightning, and otherwise seriously injured, it was reduced 8 feet. Wren took the idea of its construction from the whorls of a particular species of univalve shell. The interior has many admirers — less airy perhaps than St. James's, Piccadilly, but still extremely elegant. The stained glass window (a copy from Rubens's Descent from the Cross) was the work of Mr. Muss. In the old church were buried : — Wynkin de Worde, the celebrated printer. — Sir Richard Baker, author of the Chronicle whicli bears his name (d. 1644-5, in the Fleet Prison). — Richard Lovelace, the poet (d. 1658). In the present church were buried : — Ogilby, the translator of Homer. — Sandford, author of the Genealogical History which bears his name. — The widow of Sir Wilham Davenant, the poet ; and her son Dr. Charles Davenant, the political writer (d. 1714). — Richardson, author of Clarissa Harlowe, and a printer in Salisbury-square (d. 1761); his grave (half hid by pew No. 8, on the S. side) is marked by a flat stone, about the middle of the centre aisle. — Robert Lloyd, the friend of Charles Churchill.
ST. STEPHEN, Walbrook, immediately behind the Man- sion House, is one of Wren's most celebrated churches. The exterior is unpromising, but the interior is all elegance and even grandeur. The lights are admirably disposed through- out. Architects find faults — the public, few or none— though the oval openings are, I fear, somewhat ungraceful. The walls and columns are of stone, but the dome is formed of timber and lead. Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect and wit, lies buried in the family vault of the Vanbrughs, in this church. The present rector is the Rev. Dr. Croly, author of Salathiel, and other works of fancy and imagina- tion.
ST. MAGNUS, London Bridge, is by Wren. The cupola and lantern are much admired. The foot-way under the steeple was made (circ. 1760) to widen the road to old London Bridge. Some difficulty was expected at the time, but Wren had foreseen the probability of a change, and the alteration was effected with ease and security. On the S. side of the communion table is a tablet to the memory of Miles Coverdale, rector of St. Magnus and Bishop of Exeter, under whose direction, Oct. 4th, 1535, "the first complete printed English version of the Bible was published." When the church of
124 ST. JAMES' PICCADILLY.
St. Bartholoniew-by-the-Exchange was taken down, his remains were reverently taken care of and here interred.
ST. JAMES, Piccadilly, or St. James's, Westminster. Was built (1682-84) by Sir Christopher Wren, and erected at the expense of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, the patron of Cowley, and the husband, it is said, of Henrietta Maria, the widow of Charles I. The exterior of the church is of red brick with stone cpioins, and is mean and ugly in the extreme. The interior is a masterpiece, light, airy, elegant, and capacious — well worthy the study of an architect. It is Wren's chcf- d'ceuvre in this way — and especially adapted to the Protestant Church service.
" I can hardly think it practicahle to make a single room so capacious, with pews and galleries, as to hold above 2000 persons, and all to hear the service, and both to hear distinctly and see the preacher. I en- deavoured to effect this in building the parish church of St. James, Westminster, which I presume is the most capacious with these qualifications that hath yet been built; and yet at a solemn time when the church was much crowded I could not discern from a gallery that 2000 persons were present in this church I mention, though very broad, and the nave arched up. And yet, as there are no walls of a second order, nor lantern, nor buttresses, bat the whole roof rests upon the pillars, as do also the galleries, I think it may be found beautiful and convenient, and as such the cheapest form of any I could invent." — Sir Christopher Wren.
The marble font, a very beautiful one, is the work of Grinling Gibbons. The missing cover (represented in Vertue's en- graving) was stolen, and, it is said, subsequently hung as a kind of sign at a spirit-shop in the immediate neighbourhood of the church. The beautiful foliage over the altar is also from the hand of Gibbons. The organ, a very fine one, was made for James II., and designed for his popish chapel at Whitehall. His daughter, Queen Mary, gave it to the church. The painted window at the E. end of the chancel, by Wailes of Newcastle, was erected in 1840.
Eminent Persons interred in. — Charles Cotton, Izaak Walton's associate in The Complete Angler. — Dr. Sydenham, the physician. — The elder and younger Vandervelde. On a grave-stone in the church is, or was, this inscription : " Mr. William Vandervelde, senior, late painter of sea-fights to their Majesties King Charles II. and King James, dyed 1693." — Tom d'Urfey, the dramatist (d. 1723). There is a tablet to his memory on the outer S. wall of the tower of the church. The inscription is simple enough " Tom d'Urfey, died February 26th, 1723." — Henry Sydney, Earl of Roinney, the handsome Sydney of De Grammont's Memoirs (d. 1704). There is a monument to his memory iu the chancel. — Dr.
ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-F1ELDS. 125
Arbuthnot (d. 1734-5), the friend of Pope, Swift, and Gay. — Mark Akenside, M.D., author of The Pleasures of Imagination. — James Gillray, the caricaturist : in the churchyard, beneath a flat stone on the W. side of the rectory. — Sir John Malcolm, the eminent soldier and diplomatist. — The register records the baptisms of the polite Earl of Chesterfield and the great Earl of Chatham. The portraits of the rectors in the vestry are worth seeing, including those of Tenison and "Wake, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, and of Samuel Clarke, author of The Attributes of the Deity.
ST. MARY WOOLNOTH, Lombard Street, was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor (d. 1736), the "domestic clerk" and assistant of Sir Christopher Wren, and built in 1716, on the site of an old church of the same name, "the reason of which name," says Stow, " I have not yet learnt." This is the best of Hawksmoor's churches, and has been much admired. The exterior is bold, and at least original ; the interior effective and well-proportioned. Observe. — Tablet to the Rev. John Newton (Cowper's friend), rector of this church for 28 years (d. 1807). It is thus inscribed : —
" John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in Africa, was, by the rich mercy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had long laboured to destroy."
ST. MARTIN-in-the-FIELDS, (now in Trafalgar-square) was built by Gibbs, 1721-26, at a cost of 36,891/. 10s. id., including 1500/. for an organ. The portico is one of the finest pieces of architecture in London. The interior is so con- structed that it is next to impossible to erect a monument. The steeple is heavy, but well-proportioned ; its position, however, is awkward, since it appears to weigh down the portico. In the vaults may be seen the old parish whipping- post, and the Tombs of Sir Theodore Mayerne (physician to James I. and Charles I.), and of Secretary Coventry, from whom Coventry-street derives its name. St. Martin's-in-the- Fields originally included the several parishes of St. Paul's, Covent-garden ; St. James's, Westminster ; St. Ann's, Soho ; and St. George's, Hanover-square ; extending as far as Mary -le- bone to the N., Whitehall on the S., the Savoy on the E., and Chelsea and Kensington on the W. St. Paul's, Covent- garden, was taken out of it in 1638 ; St. James's, Westminster, in 1684 ; and St. Ann's, Soho, in 1686. About the year 1680 it was, what Burnet calls it, " the greatest cure in England." with a population, says Richard Baxter, of 40,000 persons
126 st. George's, hanover square.
more than could come into the church, and " where neigh- bours," he adds, " lived, like Americans, without hearing a sermon for many years." Fresh separations only tended to lessen the resources of the parish, and nothing was done to improve its appearance till 1826, when the churchyard was removed and the present Trafalgar-square commenced at the expense of government. Eminent 2'>ersons buried in St. Martin's. — Hilliard, the miniature painter (d. 1619). — Paul Vansomer, the painter (d. 1621). — Sir John Davys, the poet (d. 1626). — N. Laniere, the painter and musician (d. 1646). — Dobson, called the English Van Dyck (d. 1646). — Stanley, the editor of iEschylus (d. 1678). — Nell Gwynne, in the church (d. 1687). — Hon. Robert Boyle, the philosopher (d. 1691). — Lord Mohun, who fell in a duel with the Duke of Hamilton (d. 1712).— Jack Sheppard (d. 1724).— Farquhar, the dramatist (d. 1707). — Roubiliac, the sculptor (d. 1762). — James Stuart, author of the Antiquities of Athens, &c. (d. 1788). — John Hunter, the surgeon (d. 1793). — James Smith, one of the authors of the Rejected Addresses (d. 1839). The register records the baptism of Lord Bacon, who was born, in 1561, in York House, in the Strand, on the site of Buckingham-street.
ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH, Hanover Square, was built by John James, and consecrated 1724. "Its portico," says Pennant, " would be thought handsome, were there space to admire it." This was one of the fifty new churches. It con- tains 3 good Jesse windows of sixteenth century work, brought from Mechlin, and purchased by subscription. In this church (the most fashionable church for marriages in London, in which the Duke of Wellington has given away so many brides) Sir William Hamilton was married, Sept. 6th, 1791, to the Lady Hamilton, so intimately connected with the story of Lord Nelson. Her name in the register is Emma Harte. Lola Montes was married in the same church (1849) to a Mr. Heald.
In the burial-ground on the road to Bayswatcr, belonging to this parish, and near the W. wall, Laurence Sterne, the author of Tristram Shandy and the Sentimental Journey, is buried. His grave is distinguished by a plain head- stone, set up with an unsuitable inscription, by a tippling fraternity of Free-masons. He died in Old Bond-street, in this parish.
In the modern classic style. — The churches of ST. MARY- LEBONE and ST. PANCRAS (both in the New Road) aie among the best specimens in London. St. Marylebone wr.»
CHURCHES. 127
built, 1813-17, by Thomas Hardwick, and cost 60,000£ St. Paucras was built, 1819-22, by the Messrs. Inwood, and cost 76,679Z. 7s. Sd. Wren's beautiful church of St, Mary-le-Bow cost infinitely less than even St. Marylebone.
The New church of ST. GILES, Camberwell, (3 miles S. of Westminster Bridge,) was built, 1841-4, by G. G. Scott, and is the best specimen in the metropolis of modern Gothic. The style is Decorated.
The church of ST. STEPHEN, Westminster, in Rochester- row, Westminster (a London purlieu), is a beautiful specimen of modern Gothic, built, 1847-49, by Benjamin Ferrey, archi- tect, at the sole expense of Miss Coutts Burdett. The tower interferes within with the harmony of the building, but all the details throughout are especially excellent. The stained glass by Willement is in his best style. The altar-cloth was presented by the Duke of Wellington.
The church and college of ST. BARNABAS, Pimlico, were built, 1846-49, by Thomas Cundy, at a cost of 20,000^., exclu- sive of gifts, for the Rev. W. J. E. Bennett. The stained glass is by Wailes of Newcastle. The seats were entirely free. Mr. Bennett resigned his charge during (1850) the popular agitation against the Papal aggression brought about by the Pope and Cardinal Wiseman.
The WESLEYAN CHAPEL, in the City Road, over against the entrance to Bunhill-fields. Behind the chapel is the grave of John Wesley (d. 1791). The tomb which covers his grave was erected in 1791, and reconstructed and en- larged in 1840 during the centenary of Methodism. In the chapel are tablets to Dr. Adam Clarke (d. 1832), and Charles Wesley (d. 1788), "the first who received the name of Methodist."
WHITEFIELD'S CHAPEL, on the W. side of Tottenham Court Road, was built in 1675, by subscription, under the auspices of the Rev. George Whitefield, founder of the Methodists. Whitefield preached (Nov. 7th, 1756) the first sermon in the chapel to a very crowded audience. Mrs. Whitefield (d. 1768) is buried here ; and here, on a monu- ment to her memory, is an inscription to her husband, who, dying in New England, in 1770, was buried at Newbury Port, near Boston. John Bacon, R. A., the celebrated sculptor, is buried under the N. gallery. A good specimen of his talents as a sculptor may be seen in a bas-relief in this chapel.
128 ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL.
ROWLAND HILL'S CHAPEL, or " Surrey Chapel," is in the Blackfriars Road. Hill was a distinguished follower of Whitefield. The chapel was built for Hill himself in 1782-3, and here he preached for nearly 50 years.
SCOTTISH CHURCHES.
National Scotch Church, Crown Court, Long Acre. Dr. Cumming (minister).
Swallow St., Piccadilly.
Cross St., Hatton Garden. This was Irving's first place of preaching in London, and here he drew crowded and delighted congregations.
Scottish (Free) Church, Regent-square. Built for Rev. Edward Irving, and where the unknown tongues he believed in were first heard.
ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL AND CHAPELS.
The principal Roman Catholic Edifices in London are : —
St. George's Cathedral, at the angle of the St. George's and Westminster Roads, in the so-called Roman Catholic diocese of Southwark (the largest Roman Catholic church erected in this country since the Reformation), built, 1840-48, from the designs of A. W. Pugin. It is without galleries, will hold 3000 people, and is said to have cost 30,000/. The style is decorated or middle pointed Gothic, and the material used hard yellow brick with dressings of Caen stone. The Petre Chantry, founded for the repose of the soul of the Hon. Edward Petre (d. 1848), the High Altar, the Pulpit, and the Font are all excellent in their architectural details. The tower is still unfinished. Here is the throne of Cardinal Wiseman.
Roman Catholic Chapel (St. Mary's), in Bloomfield- street, Moorfields (East-street, Finsbury-circus). Here Weber was buried till the removal of his remains to Dresden, in 1844.
Bavarian Chapel, Warwick-street, Regent-street, occupying the site of the Roman Catholic chapel, destroyed in the riots of 1780.
Sardinian Chapel, Duke-strcct, Lincoln's-Inn-ficlds.
Spanish Chapel, Spanish-place, Manchester-square.
In York-street, St. James's-square, is the Chapel of former Embassies, with the arms of Castile still remaining on the building.
FOREIGN CHURCHES. 129
French Chapel, Little George-street, King-street, Portman- square.
High Mass begins generally at 11 a.m. and Vespers at 6 p.m. Extra full Masses are performed on the first Sunday in the month, on High Feasts and Festivals, Christmas-day, Easter- day, etc. To secure a sitting, it is necessary to pay a shilling and attend about an hour before the service begins. In most of the Chapels, the music is very grand and impressive, and finely performed by eminent professional characters, the members of the Italian Opera Company assisting at their grand festivals. For further information, see "The Catholic Directory and Ecclesiastical Register for 1851," published by Dolman, 61, New Bond-street, price Is. Cardinal Wiseman (when in town) is at home (35, Golden-square) every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, between 11 and 2 o'clock : Tuesday being specially devoted to the clergy.
GERMAN LUTHERAN CHURCH is in the Savoy, off the Strand.
GERMAN LUTHERAN CHAPEL, St. James's Palace, between it and Marlborough House.
FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH, formerly in the Savoy, is now in Bloomsbury-street, Bloomsbury. Built by Ambrose Poynter, architect, in 1845.
FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH, founded by Edward VI., and formerly in Threadneedle-street, on the site of the Hall of Commerce, is now in St. Martin's-le-grand, over against the General Post Office.
The SWEDISH CHURCH, in Prince's Square, Rat- cliffe Highway. Here Baron Swedenborg (d. 1772), founder of the sect of Swedenborgians, is buried.
The DANISH CHURCH is in Wellclose Square, White- chapel, now the British and Foreign Sailors' Church. It was built in 1696, by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the sculptor, at the expense of Christian V., king of Denmark, as appears by the inscription over the entrance, who gave it for the use of his subjects, merchants, and seamen, accustomed to visit the poi't of London. Within the church is a tablet, the second on your right hand as you enter, to the wife of Caius Gabriel Cibber (Jane Colley), the mother of Colley Cibber. The father and son are both interred in the vaults of this church. Attached to the pulpit is a handsome frame of brass with four sand- glasses, and immediately opposite is the " Royal Pew," in
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130 CEMETERIES.
which Christian VII., King of Denmark, sat, when on a visit to this country, in 1768.
JEWS' SYNAGOGUE, Great St. Helen's, St. Mary Axe, Leadenhall Street. Divine service here begins an hour before sunset every Friday. The most imposing ceremonies take place at the time of the Passover (Easter time). In the Jews' Burial Ground, in Whitechapel-road, a continuation of Whitechapel High-street, N. M. Rothschild (d. 1836), long the leading stock-broker of Europe, and the founder of the Rothschild family, was buried.
For further information, see Low's Handbook to the places of Public Worship in London, price Is. 6d.
CEMETERIES.
The principal places of sepulture are our churches and churchyards. St. George's Chapel, in the Bayswater-road, contains as many as 1120 coffins beneath its pavement — and the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields a still greater number. The sexton at Bayswater admitted, in 1850, that it was only by boring in the burial-ground that a spot for a new grave could be found, and that for several years prior to 1848 there had been upwards of 1000 burials a year within its precinct. Yet this great nuisance is situated in the very heart of the new and expensive houses in Hyde-Park- gardens. The Norman vault of St. Mary-le-Bo\v, in Cheap- side (the great thoroughfare of London), is literally crammed with leaden coffins piled 30 feet high, all on the lean from their own immense weight, and covered with cobwebs and fungi. The churchyard of St. Paul's, Covent-garden, (another central cemetery), is a plague-spot of decayed human flesh and human remains ; the narrow place of sepulture of two centuries of the inhabitants of this parish. At the burial- ground in Bethnal-grecn (a private pauper cemetery of about 2 j acres, surrounded by small dwellings, opened in 1746, and said to contain the remains of 56,000 persons), the nuisance, only a year since, was still worse from the putrid effluvia, when hot weather followed rain. Corpses were constantly detained above-ground as the funeral Bervioe was read but three days a week, the clergymen officiating being obliged to stand on windward sides of graves. At St. Beimel's, Gracechurch-strcct, the only access, in 1850, to a crowded
KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY. 131
vault was by lifting the stones in the aisle. At St. Andrew's- in-the- Wardrobe (close to St. Paul's), graves as late as 1850 were actually dug in the vault beneath the church. At St. Mary-at-Hill, between London Bridge and the Tower, the vaults were, in 1850, in a still worse condition. No one dared to enter one of these vaults, unless the large trap- door had been opened many hours. Certain of the more obnoxious graveyards were closed by order of the General Board of Health, pursuant to 12 & 13 Vict., cap. 3, but the abolition of the whole of them cannot be effected too cmickly.
KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY is on the Harrow Road, about 24 miles from the Paddington Station of the Great Western Railway. There is an omnibus to the Cemetery Gates, leaving the Oxford and Cambridge Terrace portion of the Edgeware-road, three times a day. Remember that the cemetery is closed on Sundays till rnorning service is over. It was formed by a joint-stock company in 1832, and is the only one of the suburban cemeteries yielding a good dividend to the proprietors. There is much bad taste in art exhibited in this cemetery, and four of the most conspicuous tombs are to St. John Long, the quack doctor ; Ducrow, the rider ; Mor- rison, the pill-man ; and George Robins, the auctioneer. Eminent Persons interred in. — Duke of Sussex, son of George III. (d. 1843), and the Princess Sophia, daughter of George III. (d. 1848). The whole of the Royal Family had been previously interred in the royal vault at Windsor, but the Duke of Sussex left particular directions that he should be buried in the cemetery at Kensal Green. The duke's grave is near the chapel, and is marked by an enormous granite tomb. Anne Scott and Sophia Lockhart, daughters of the Author of Waverley, and John Hugh Lockhart, the '•'Hugh Littlejohn" of the Tales of a Grandfather; monu- ment in inner circle. Allan Cunningham (d. 1842), author of the Lives of British Painters, Sculptors, &c. ; monument in the N.W. comer of the cemetery. John Murray, of Albemarle-street, the publisher, and friend of Lord Byron (d. 1843) ; monument in inner circle. Rev. Sydney Smith, in the public vault, catacomb B. Thomas Barnes (d. 1841), for many years editor of "The Times " newspaper ; altar-tomb. Tom Hood, the poet and wit (d. 1845), buried near Ducrow's monument. John Liston, the actor, the original Paul Pry (d. 1846); altar-tomb, surmounted by an urn, on the left of the chapel. J. C. Loudon (d. 1843), celebrated for his works on gardening : altar-tomb. George Dyer, the historian
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132 EUNHILL FIELDS.
of Cambridge, editor of Valpy's Delpliin Classics, and the "G. D." of Charles Lamb (d. 1841). Sir Augustus Callcott, the painter (d. 1844); fiat stone. Dr. Birkbeck, the pro- moter of Mechanics' Institutions (d. 1841). Sir William Beatty (d. 1842), Nelson's surgeon at the battle of Trafalgar; tablet in colonnade. Thomas Daniell, R.A., the landscape painter (d. 1840); altar-tomb; the inscription was written by Allan Cunningham at the request of Sir David Wilkie. Sir Mark Isambard Brunei, Engineer of the Thames Tunnel, inventor of Block Machines, &c, on left of the main avenue.
The Government Board of Health has recommended the extension of Kensal Green as a great "West-end place of burial, and the formation of an enormous Cemetery for the whole of London, at Erith on the Thames, near Gravesend. The recommendation deserves adoption.
The other modern Cemeteries are — Highgate, beautifully situated : fine view of London. Abney Park, 3£ miles from Post-office, containing a statue, by Baily, of Dr. Isaac Watts, erected to commemorate the residence of Watts at Abney Park, Stoke Newington, the seat of Sir Thomas Abney. The site of the house is included in the cemetery. Brompton, 2 miles from Hyde-Park-corner, on the road to Fulham. Victoria Cemetery, in the east of London. Tower Ham- lets Cemetbrt, in the east of London. Nunhead Ceme- tery, and Norwood Cemetery, both on the Surrey side. Of these cemeteries, Highgate and Norwood will alone repay a visit. The others are poorly situated, without graves or monuments of any interest.
BUNHILL FIELDS BURIAL GROUND, near Finsbury Square, called by Southey " the Campo Santo of the Dis- senters," was first made use of as a pest-field or common place of interment during the Great Plague of Loudon in 1665. It then lay open to the fields, and is the '"great pit in Finsbury " of De Foe's narrative. When the Plague was over, the pit was inclosed with a brick wall, "at the sole charges of the City of London," and subsequently leased by several of the great Dissenting sects, who conscientiously objected to the burial-service in the Book of Common Prayer. What stipulation was made with the City is unknown, but here all the interments of the Dissenters from this time forward took place. Emitu nt Persons interred in. — Dr. Thomas Goodwin (d. 1679), (altar-tomb, east end of ground.) the Independent preacher who attended Oliver Cromwell on his death-bed. Cromwell had then his moments of misgiving, and asked of Goodwin, who was standing by, if tho elect could
BUNHILL FIELDS. 133
never finally fall. " Nothing could be more true," was Good- win's answer. " Then am I safe," said Oomwell : " for I am sure that once I was in a state of grace." — Dr. John Owen (d. 1683), Dean of Christ Church, and Vice-Chancellor of Oxford when Cromwell was Chancellor. He was much in favour with his party, and preached the first sermon before the Parliament, after the execution of Charles I. — John Bunyan, author of The Pilgrim's Progress, died 1688, at the house of his friend Mr. Strudwick, a grocer, at the Star on Snow-hill, and was buried in that friend's vault in Bunhill Fields Burial-ground. Modern curiosity has marked the place of his interment with a brief inscription, but his name is not recorded in the Register, and there was no inscription upon his grave when Curll published his Bunhill Field In- scriptions, in 1717, or Strype his edition of Stow, in 1720. It is said that many have made it their desire to be interred as near as possible to the spot where his remains are deposited. — George Fox (d. 1690), the founder of the sect of Quakers; there is no memorial to his memory. — Lieut.-Gen. Fleetwood (d. 1692), Lord Deputy Fleetwood of the Civil Wars, Oliver Cromwell's son-in-law, and husband of the widow of the gloomy Ireton ; there was a monument to his memory in Strype's time, since obliterated or removed. — John Dunton, bookseller, author of his own Life and Errors. — George AVhitehead, author of The Christian Progress of George AVhitehead, 1725. — Daniel de Foe (d. 1731), author of Robinson Crusoe. He was born (1661) in the parish of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and was buried in the great pit of Finsbury, which he has described in his " Plague Year " with such terrific reality. His second wife was interred in the same grave (spot unknown) in 1732. — Susannah Wesley (d. 1742), wife of the Rev. Samuel Wesley, and mother of John Wesley, founder of the people called Methodists, and of Charles Wesley, the first person who was called a Methodist. There is a head-stone to her memory. — Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1748). There is a monument to his memory, near the centre of the ground. — Dr. James Foster, Pope's ''modest Foster" (d. 1753). There is a monument to his memory. — Joseph Ritson, the antiquary (d. 1803), buried near his friend Baynes ; the spot unmarked. — William Blake, painter and poet (d. 1828); at the distance of about 25 feet from the north wall in the grave numbered 80 ; no monu- ment.— Thomas Stothard, R.A. (d. 1S34), best known by his " Canterbury Pilgrimage," his " Robinson Crusoe," and his illustrations to the Italy and smaller poems of Rogers. In this cemetery, consisting of less than 4 acres, there have been interred from April, 1713, to August, 1832, according to the
134 WESTMINSTER HALL.
registry, — iu the earlier years, however, very imperfectly kept, — 107,416 dead bodies. And this too is festering in the very heart of London.
[See Places of Burial of Eminent Persons, p. 240.]
COURTS OF LAW AND JUSTICE.
WESTMINSTER HALL. The old Hall of the Palace of our Kings at Westminster, well and wisely incorporated by Mr. Barry into his new Houses of Parliament, to serve as their vestibule. It was originally built in the reign of William Rufus (Pope calls it " Rufus' roaring Hall"); and during the recent refitting of the outer walls, a Norman arcade of the time of Rufus was uncovered, but has, I believe, been since destroyed. The present Hall was built, or rather repaired, 1397-99 (in the last three years of Richard II.), when the walls were carried up two feet higher ; the windows altered ; and a stately porch and new roof constructed ac- cording to the design of Master Henry Zenely. The stone moulding or string-course that runs round the Hall preserves the white hart couchant, the favourite device of Richard II. The roof, with its hammer beams (carved with angels), to diminish the lateral pressure that falls upon the walls, is of chesnut, and very fine ; the finest of its kind in this country. Fuller speaks of its "cobwebless beams," alluding to the vulgar belief that it was built of a particular kind of wood (Irish oak) in Which spiders cannot live. It is more curious, because true, that our early Parliaments were held in this Hall, and that the first meeting of Parliament in the new edifice was for deposing the very King by whom it had been built. The Law Courts of England, four in number, and of which Sir Edward Coke observed that no man can tell which of them is most ancient, were permanently established in Westminster Hall in the year 1224 (the 9th of King Henry III.); and here, in certain courts abutting from the Hall, they are still held. These courts arc called the Court of Chancery, in which the Lord Chancellor sits, with a salary of 14,0002. a year (hereafter to be 10,0002.) ; the Court of Queen's Bench, in which the Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench sits, with a salary of 80002. a year: the Court of Common Pleas, presided over by a Chief Justice. with a salary of 70002. a year and the Court of Esttktqptr. The rourts were original! v within the Hall itself, and the
WESTMINSTER HALL. 135
name Westminster Hall is not unfrequently used for the law itself. The highest Court of Appeal in the Kingdom is the House of Lords, presided over by the Lord Chancellor ; and it sometimes happens that the judgments of the Law Courts in Westminster Hall are reversed in the Lords.
That the law is not very rapid in its course, is well illus- trated by an anecdote told by the present Lord Chief Justice in his Lives of the Lord Chancellors : — " The late Mr. Jekyll told me," says his lordship, " that, soon after he was called to the bar, a strange solicitor, coming up to him in Westminster Hall, begged him to step into the Court of Chancery to make a motion of course, and gave him a fee. The young barrister looking pleased but a little surprised, the solicitor said to him, ' I thought you had a sort of right, sir, to this motion, for the bill was drawn by Sir Joseph Jekyll, your great grand-uncle, in the reign of Queen Anne.' " Now, however, Government has taken up the serious delays occasioned to suitors, and the Court of Chancery, with its two Judges of Appeal, is likely to become a Pie Powder Court where justice is administered as soon as it is sought.
When Peter the Great was taken into Westminster Hall, he inquired who those busy people were in wigs and black gowns. He was answered they are lawyers. " Lawyers ! " said he, with a face of astonishment : " why I have but two in my whole dominions, and I believe I shall hang one of them the moment I get home."
Let the spectator picture to himself the appeai'ance which this venerable Hall has presented on many occasions. Here were hung the banners taken from Charles I. at the battle of Naseby ; from Charles II. at the battle of Worcester ; at Preston and Dunbar ; and, somewhat later, those taken at the battle of Blenheim. Here, at the upper end of the Hall, Oliver Cromwell was inaugurated as Lord Protector, sitting in a robe of purple velvet lined with ermine, on a rich cloth of state, with the gold sceptre in one hand, the Bible richly gilt and bossed in the other, and his sword at his side ; and here, four years later, at the top of the Hall fronting Palace- yard, his head was set on a pole, with the skull of Ireton on one side of it and the skull of Bradshaw on the other. Here shameless ruffians sought employment as hired witnesses, and walked openly in the Hall with a straw in the shoe to denote their quality ; and here the good, the great, the brave, the wise, and the abandoned have been brought to trial. Here (in the Hall of Rufus) Sir William Wallace was tried and condemned ; here, in this very Hall, Sir Thomas More and the Protector Somerset were doomed to the scaffold.
136 WESTMINSTER HALL.
Hero, in Henry VIII.'s reign (1517), entered the City appren- tices, implicated in the murders on " Evil May Day " of the aliens settled in London, each with a halter round his neck, and crying " Mercy, gracious Lord, mercy," while Wolsey stood by, and the" King, beneath his cloth of state, heard their defence and pronounced their pardon — the prisoners shouting with delight and casting up their halters to the Hall roof, " so that the King," as the chroniclers observe, " might perceive they were none of the descreetest sort." Here the notorious Earl and Countess of Somerset were tried in the reign of James I. for the murder of Sir Thomas Over- bury. Here the great Earl of Strafford was condemned ; the King being present, and the Commons sitting bareheaded all the time. Here the High Court of Justice sat which con- demned King Charles I., the upper part of the Hall hung with scarlet cloth, and the King sitting covered, with the Naseby banners above his head; here Lily, the astrologer, who was present, saw the silver top fall from the King's staff, and others heard Lady Fairfax exclaim, when her husband's name was called over, " He has more wit than to be here." Here, in the reign of James II., the seven bishops were acquitted. Here Dr. Sacheverel was tried and pronounced guilty by a majority of 17. Here the rebel Lords of 1745, Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat, were heard and condemned. Here Lord Byron was tried for killing Mr. Chaworth; Lord Ferrers for murdering his steward ; and the Duchess of Kingston, a few years later, for bigamy. Here Warren Hastings was tried, and Burke and Sheridan grew eloquent and impas- sioned, while senators by birth and election, and the beauty and rank of Great Britain, sat earnest spectators and listeners of the extraordinary scene. The last public trial in the Hall itself was Lord Melville's in 1806; and the last coronation dinner in the Hall was that of George IV., when, according to the custom maintained for ages, and for the last time probably, the King's champion (young Dymocke) rode into the Hall in full armour, and threw down the gauntlet, challenging the world in a King's behalf. Silver plates were laid, on the same occasion, for 334 guests.
This noble Hall is 290 feet long, by 68 feet wide, and 110 feet high. It is said to be the largest apartment not supported by pillars in the world — save one — the Hall of Justice, at Padua. The next largest Hall in London is the Hall at Christ's Hospital. The floor has recently been restored to something like its original elevation in relation to the height of the building ; but a still greater change is contemplated by Mr. Barry— the elevation of the roof without disturbing a
OLD BAILEY — POLICE COURTS. 137
single joint in its structure, unconnected with the walls it rests on.
THE OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE, or Central Criminal Court, in the Old Bailey, adjoining Newgate, for the trial and conviction of prisoners for offences committed within 10 miles of St. Paul's, is regulated by Act of Parlia- ment, 4 & 5 Will. IV., c. 36. In the " Old Court " sit one or more of the judges in Westminster Hall. In the New Court the presiding judges are the Recorder and Common Serjeant of the Corporation of London. Upwards of 2000 persons, annually, are placed at the bar of the Old Bailey for trial ; about one third are acquitted, one third are first offences, and the remaining portion have been convicted before. The stranger is admitted on payment of at least Is. to the officer whose perquisite it is, but this perquisite is regulated by the officer himself, according to the importance of the trials that are on. Over the Court-room is a Dining-room, where the judges dine when the Court is over — a practice com- memorated by a well-known line —
" And wretches hang that jurymen may dine."
The dinners are pleasant, speedy, and well attended. Adjoining the Sessions House is the prison called "Newgate? [See p. 145.]
The Metropolitan County Courts, holding a summary jurisdiction over debts and demands not exceeding 501., are eleven in number. The judges are barristers appointed by the Crown.
CLERKENWELL SESSIONS HOUSE, the next in import- ance to the Old Bailey, was originally Hicks's Hall, and was removed hither in 1782. A fine James I. chimney-piece from the old Hall is one of the interior decorations of the House.
The City Police Courts are at the Mansion House and Guildhall, where the Lord Mayor, or the sitting Alderman, are the magistrates who decide cases or send them for trial.
The Police Courts connected with the Metropolitan Police are eleven in number, under the control of the Secretary of State for the Home Department, each presided over by a Barrister of at least seven years standing at the bar. and who sits daily, Sundays excepted. The Metropolitan Courts are — Bow-street, Clcrkenwell, Great Marlborough-street, Greenwich and Woolwich, Hammersmith and Wandsworth, Lambeth, Marylebone, South wark, Thames, Westminster, Worship- street ; and the amount of Fees, Penalties, and Forfeitures,
138 INNs Of COURT AND CHANCERY.
levied and received by the Metropolitan Police in the year 1850 amounted to 10,0477. 17s. lid. The expense of the Force is defrayed by an assessment limited to &d. in the pound on the parish rates, the deficiency being made up by the Treasurer.
The Metropolitan Police Force, on the 1st of January, 1851, consisted of 5525 men, viz. : — 1 Inspecting Superintendent, 18 superintendents, 124 Inspectors, 585 Serjeants, and -1 7 '. • 7 Constables. The men are paid at various rates, averaging 18s. a-week, with clothing and. 40 lbs. of coal weekly to each married man all the year ; 40 lbs. weekly to each single man during six months, and 20 lbs. weekly during the remainder of the year.
Before 1829, when the present excellent Police Force (for which London is wholly indebted to Sir Kobert Peel) was first introduced (pursuant to 10 George IV., c. 44), the watchmen, familiarly called " Charlies," who guarded the streets of London, were often incompetent and feeble old men, totally unfitted for their duties. The Police is now com- posed of young and active men, and the Force that has proved perfectly effective for the metropolis (having saved it more than once from Chartist and other rioters, and from calamities such as befel Bristol in 1831) has since been introduced with equal success nearly throughout the kingdom. The number of persons taken into custody by the two Forces, between 1844 and 1848 inclusive, amounted to 374,710. The gross total number of robberies, during the same period, amounted to 70,889, the value of the property stolen to 270,945/.. and the value of the property recovered to 55,167/., or about a fifth of the property stolen.
Each Policeman is dressed in blue, and has marked on his coat-collar the number and letter of his division. The City Police marking is in red; the Metropolitan in white. Each man is furnished with a baton, a rattle, a lantern, an oil-skin cape, and a great-coat. It is estimated that each constable walks from 20 to 25 miles a day. During 2 months out of 3, each constable is on night duty, from 9 at night till 6 in the morning.
INNS OF COURT AND INNS OF CHANCERY.
INNS OF COURT, " the noblest nurseries of Humanity and Liberty in the kingdom," are four in number— I mo r Temple, Middle Temple, Lincoln s Inn, and Gray's Inn. They
INNS OF COURT — THE TEMPLE. 139
are called Inns of Court, from being anciently held in the " AulaRegia," or Court of the King's Palace. Their government is vested in "Benchers," consisting of the most successful and distinguished members of the English Bar — a numerous body, " composed of above 3080 Barristers, exclusive of the 28 Serjeants-at-Law." No person can be called to the bar at any of the Inns of Court before he is 21 years of age, and a standing of 5 years is understood to be required of every member before being called. The members of the several Universities, &c, may be called after 3 years' standing. Every student may, if he choose, dine in the Hall every day dui'ing term. A bottle of wine is allowed to each mess of four.
The TEMPLE is a liberty or district, divided into the Inner Temple and Middle Temple. It lies between Fleet- street and the Thames, and was so called from the Knights Templar, who made their first London habitation in Holborn, in 1118, and removed to Fleet-street, or the New Temple. in 1184. Spenser alludes to this London locality in his beautiful Prothalamion : —
" those bricky towers The Avhich on Thames' broad aged back doe ride, Whei"e now the studious lawyers have their bowers, There whilom wont the Templar Knights to bide, Till they decayed through pride."
At the downfall of the Templars, in 1313, tho New Temple in Fleet-street was given by Edward II. to Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, whose tomb, in Westminster Abbey, has called forth the eulogistic criticism of the classic Flaxman. At the Earl of Pembroke's death the property passed to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, by whom the Inner and Middle Temples were leased to the students of the Common Law, and the Outer Temple to Walter Stapleton, Bishop of Exeter, and Lord Treasurer, beheaded by the citizens of London in 1326. No change took place when the Temple property passed to the Crown, at the dissolution of religious houses, and the students of the Inns of Court remained tenants of the Crown till 1608, when James I. conferred the Temple (now so called) on the Benchers of the two societies and their successors for ever. There are two edifices in the Temple well Avorthy of a visit : the Temple Church (serving for both Temples. See p. 117), and the Middle Temple Hall.
Middle Temple Hall, 100 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 47 feet high, was built in 1572, while Plowden the well-known iurist, was Treasurer of the Inn. The roof is the best piece of Elizabethan architecture in London, and will well repay
140 THE TEMPLE.
inspection. The screen, in the Renaissance style, is said to have been formed in exact imitation of the Strand front of old Somerset House, but this is a vulgar error, like the tradition which relates that it was made of the spoils of the Spanish Armada, the records of the Society proving that it was set up thirteen years before the Armada put to sea. Here are marble busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell,by Behnes. The portraits are chiefly copies, and not good. The exterior was cased with stone, in wretched taste, in 1757. We first hear of Shakspeare's Twelfth Night in connexion with its performance in this fine old Hall.
The principal entrance to the Middle Temple is by a heavy red-brick front in Fleet-street with stone dressings, built, in 1684, by Sir C. "Wren, in place of the old portal which Sir Amias Paulet, while Wolsey's prisoner in the gate-house of the Temple, " had re-edified very sumptuously, garnishing the same," says Cavendish, "on the outside thereof, with cardinal's hats and arms, and divers other devices, in so glorious a sort, that he thought thereby to have appeased his old unkind displeasure." The New Paper Buildings, to the river, built from the designs of Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., are in excellent taste, recalling the "bricky towers" of Spenser's Prothalamion. Inner Temple Hall was refaced and repaired by Sir Robert Smirke while Jekyll, the wit, was Treasurer of the Inn, and certainly Sir Robert has made a dull joke of the restoration.
Shakspeare has made the Temple Gardens — a fine open space, fronting the Thames — the place in which the dis- tinctive badges (the white rose and red rose) of the houses of York and Lancaster were first assumed by their respective partisans.
"Suffolk. Within the Temple Hall we were too loud; The garden here is more convenient
• •••••
" Rantapenet. Lot him that is a trae-horn gentleman, And stands upon the honour of hie birth,
If he suppose that I have pleaded truth, From off this brier pluck a white n>se with me.
" Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer, But dare maintain the party of tin- truth, Pluck a red rose from oil" this thorn with me.
• ••••• "Plantar/met. Hath not thy rOM a canker, Somerset? "Somerset. Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet?
******
" Warwick. This brawl to-day,
Grown to this faction in the Temple Gardens, Shall send, between the red rose and the white, A thousand souls to death and deadly night."
S/iaLi]>c<ir>\ Firtt Part <{/' Hairy VI., Act ii., sc.4.
LINCOLN S INN. 141
It would now be impossible to revive the scene in the sup- posed place of its origin, for such is the smoke and foul air of London, that the commonest and hardiest kind of rose has long ceased to put forth a bud in the Temple Gardens. The Temple is walled in on every side, and protected with gates. There is no poor-law within its precinct ; and it is said that the Temple Church, though it possesses a font, is the only church in which a christening never took place. This, however, is only a vulgar error. The Cloisters, adjoining the Temple Church, were rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren for students to walk in, and put cases in law for the considera- tion of one another. In No. 1, Inner-Temple-lane (on the first floor), on your right as you descend the lane, Dr. Johnson had chambers, and here Boswell paid his first visit after his memorable introduction to him at Tom Davis's. In No. 2, Brick-court, Middle-Temple-lane, up two pair of stairs, for so Mr. Filby, his tailor, describes him, lived and died Oliver Goldsmith : his rooms were on the right hand as you ascend the staircase. The Earl of Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, had chambers in No. 5, King's-Bench-walk.
" To number 5 direct your doves, There spread round Murray all your blooming loves."
Pope, '' To Venus," from Horace.
A second compliment by Pope to this great man occasioned a famous parody : —
" Graced as thou art with all the power of words, So known, so honoured, at the House of Lords."
Pope (of Lord Mansfield). " Persuasion tips his tongue whene'er he talks, And he has chambers in the King's Bench Walks."
Parody by Cibber.
LINCOLN'S INN is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of Chancery attached, FumivaVs Inn and Thavies' Inn, and so called after Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln (d. 1312), whose town-house, or inn, occupied a considerable portion of the present Inn of Court, which bears both his name and arms, and whose monument in old St. Paul's was one of the state- liest in the church. The Gatehouse of brick in Chancery-lane (the oldest part of the existing building) was built by Sir Thomas Lovell, and bears the date upon it of 1518. The chambers adjoining are of a somewhat later period, and it is to this part perhaps that Fuller alludes when he says that — " He [Ben Jonson] helped in the building of the new structure of Lincoln's Inn, when, having a trowel in one hand, he had a book in his pocket." In No. 24, in the south angle of the great court leading out of Chancery-lane, formerly called the
142 LINCOLN S INN.
Gatehouse-court, but uow Old-buildings, and in the apart- ments on the left hand of the ground floor, Oliver Cromwell's secretary, Thurloe, had chambers from 1645 to 1659. Crom- well must often have been here ; and here, by the merest accident, long after Thurloe's death, the Thurloe Papers were accidentally discovered, concealed in a false ceiling.
Lincoln's Inn Chapel, in the Perpendicular style of Gothic architecture, but much defaced, was built by Inigo Jones, and consecrated on Ascension Day, 1623, Dr. Donne preaching the consecration sermon. The Roman Doric pilasters, creeping up the sides of the bastard Gothic of the crypt, deserve attention. The stained glass windows (very good for the period) were executed "by Mr. Hall, a glass-painter, in Fetter-lane, and in point of colour are as rich as the richest Decorated glass of the best period." Some of the figures will repay attention. The windows on the S. side are filled with the Twelve Apostles ; on the N. by Moses and the Prophets, St. John the Baptist and St. Paul. The St. John the Baptist was executed, as an in- scription in the window records, at the expense of William Noy (d. 1631), the famous Attorney-General of Charles I. The crypt beneath the chapel on open arches, like the cloisters in the Temple, was built as a place for the students and lawyers "to walk in and talk and confer their learnings." The Round part of the Temple Chui-ch was long employed for a similar purpose. Butler and Pepys allude to this custom. Here were buried Alexander Brome, the Cavalier song-writer ; Secretary Thurloe ; and "William Prynne, the Puritan, who wrote against the "unloveliness of love locks." The inscription on Prynnc's grave was obliterated when Wood drew up his Athena) Oxonienses.
Lincoln's Inn Hall and Library, on the E. side of Lincoln's-Inn-fields (Philip Hardwick, R.A., architect), is a noble structure in the Tudor style, built, 1843-45, of red brick with stone dressings. The Hall is 120 feet long, 45 feet wide, and 62 feet high, with a roof of carved oak. The Library is 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 41 feet high. The amount of the contract was 55,0002., but the total cost has not yet transpired. Observe. — In the Hall, Hogarth's picture of Paul before Felix, painted for the Benchers on the recommendation of the great Lord Mansfield, as the appro- priation of a legacy to the Inn of 200/.; statue of Lord Erskine, by Sir R. Wcstmacott, R.A. The Library contains the unique fourth volume of Prynnc's Records, for which the Society paid 335/. at the Stowe sale in 1849 j and the rich collection of Books and MSB., the bequest of Sir
(iRAY's INN. 143
Matthew Hale, " a treasure," says Hale, in his will, " that are not fit for every man's view." The Court of Chancery sits in "Term Time" at Westminster; during the "Vacation" in Lincoln's Inn Old Hall, a mean building near the Chapel. In the Council Room of the Society is the portrait of Sir Matthew Hale, by Wright. The Gardens were famous, till the erection of this Hall, by which they were curtailed, and in some measure destroyed.
Lincoln" s Inn New Square (built on Little Lincoln's-Inn- fields) forms no part of the Inn of Court called Lincoln's Inn. Sir Samuel Romilly had chambers at Nos. 2 and 6, and Sir William Grant at No. 3.
GRAY'S INN is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of Chancery attached, Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn, and is so called after Edmund, Lord Gray of Wilton, of the time of Henry VII. The Hall was built in 1560, and the Gardens first planted about 1600. The great Lord Burghley and the great Lord Bacon, who dates the dedication of his Essays "from my chamber at Graies Inn, this 30 of Januarie, 1597," are the chief worthies of the Inn. Bradshaw, who sat as president at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher of the Inn.
Grays Inn Walks, or Gray's Inn Gardens, were in Charles II. 's time, and the days of the Tatler and Spectator, a fashionable promenade on a summer evening. The great Lord Bacon is said to have planted some of the trees, but none now exist coeval with his time. The principal entrance from Holborn was by Fulwood's-rents, then a fashionable locality, now the squalid habitation of the poorest people of the Parish of St. Andrew. "Within Gray's Inn Gate, next Gray's Inn Lane," Jacob Tonson first kept shop. The first turning on the right (as you walk from Holborn up Gray's- Inn-lane) is Fox-court, in which, on the 16th of January, 1696-7, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the Countess of Maccles- field was delivered, wearing a mask all the while, of Richard Savage, the poet.
The INNS OF CHANCERY, attached to the four Inns of Court, are nine in number. To the Inner Temple belonged Clifford's Inn, Clement's Inn, and Lyon's Inn ; to the Middle Temple, New Inn and Strand Inn ; to Lincoln" s Inn, Furnival's Inn and Thavies' Inn; and to Gray's Inn, Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn. They have now little or no connexion with the Inns of Court.
Harrison, the regicide, was a clerk in the office of Thomas Houlker, an attorney in Clifford's Inn.
144 Clement's inn.
Justice Shallow was a student of Clement's Inn.
" Shallow. I -was once of Clement's Inn ; where I think they will talk of mad Shallow yet.
" Silence. Yon were called lusty Shallow then, cousin.
"Shallow. By the mass, I was called anything; and I would have done anything indeed, and roundly too. There was I and Little John Doit of Staffordshire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and Francis Pickbone and Will Squele. a C'otswold man; you had not four such swinge-bucklers in all the Inns of Court again.
********
" Shallow. Nay, she must be old ; she cannot choose but be old ; certain she's old, and had Robin Nightwork by old Nightwork, before I came to Clement's Inn.
• •*•••••
" Shallow. I remember at Mile-end-green (when I lay at Clement's Inn) I was then Sir Dagonet in Arthur's show.
• •••••••
"Falstaff. I do remember him at Clement's Inn, like a man made
after supper of a cheese-paring."— Shakspeare, Second Fart of Henry IV.
"Withowt St. Clement's Inn back dore, as soon as you come up the steps and owt of that house and dore on your left hand two payre of stayres, into a little passage right before you," lived Winceslaus Hollar, the en graver. The black figure kneeling in the garden of Clement's Inn was presented to the Inn by Holies, Earl of Clare, but when or by what earl no one has told us. It was brought from Italy, and is said to be of bronze.
William Weare, murdered by Thurtell, at Gill's-hill, in Hertfordshire, lived at No. 2 in Lyon's Inn.
" They cut his throat from car to ear, His brains they battered in ; His name was Mr. William AVeare, He dwelt in Lyon's Inn."
Contemporary Ballad, attributed to Theodore Hook.
Isaac Reed (d. 1807) had chambers at No. 11, Staple Inn, Holborn. Here (in Reed's chambers) Steevens corrected the proof sheets of his edition of Shakspeare. He used to leave his house at Hampstcad at 1 in the morning, and walk to Staple Inn. Reed, who went to bed at the usual hour, allowed his facetious fellow-commentator a key to the cham- bers, so that Steevens stole quietly to his proof sheets, without, it is said, disturbing the repose of his friend.
NEWGATE — BRIDEWELL. 145
PRISONS, PENITENTIARIES, AND PLACES OF PUBLIC EXECUTION.
NEWGATE, in the Old Bailey, is a prison appertaining to the city of London and county of Middlesex, formerly for felons and debtors; since 1815 (when Whitecross-street Prison was built) for felons only, and is now used as the gaol for the confinement of prisoners from the metropolitan counties, preparatory to their trial at the Central Criminal Court in the Old Bailey. It is the oldest prison in London, was so called because it was the tower of a gate of the same name, and has given its name as a common name for all prisons, as Bridewell has done for all houses of correction, and Bedlam for all houses in which lunatics are confined. The present edifice was designed by George Dance, the architect of the Mansion House, and the first stone laid by Alderman Beckford, 1770. The works advanced but slowly, for in 1780, when the old prison was burnt to the ground in the Lord George Gordon riots of that year, the new prison was only in part completed. More rapid progress was made in consequence of this event, and on Dec. 9th, 1783, the first execution took place before its walls. This was the "'first execution at Newgate, the last at Tyburn occurring on the 7th of the preceding month. The solitary or separate system is not in use in Newgate, and cannot, it is said, be introduced without a complete alteration of the design and structure of the prison. For the year 1845, the total number of prisoners committed to Newgate for trial was 2581 : of that number 1960 were convicted, and 621 were acquitted. The prison, it is said, does not afford proper accommodation for more than 400 prisoners, but is often made to contain before the meeting of the sessions as many as 1000. Here, in the prison he had emptied and set in flames, Lord George Gordon, the leader of the riots of 1780, died (1793) of the gaol distemper, and in front of this prison Bellingham was executed (1811) for the murder of Mr. Perceval, the Prime Minister. Ad- mission to inspect the interior is granted by the Secretary of State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs. Observe. — Opposite this prison, No. 68, Old Bailey, the resi- dence of Jonathan Wild, the famous thief and thief-taker ; immediately behind his house is a good specimen of the old wall of London.
BPtlDEWELL. A city prison, situated in Bridge-street, Blackfriars, immediately behind the church of St. Bride,
146 HORSEMONGER-LANE GAOL.
Fleet-street. It derives its name from a manor or house, presented to the City of London by Edward VI., after a sermon by Bishop Ridley, who begged it of the King as a Workhouse for the poor, and a House of Correction " for the strumpet and idle person, for the x'ioter that consumeth all, and for the vagabond that will abide in no place." The prison is calculated to accommodate, in single cells, 70 male and 30 female prisoners. The sentences vary from three days to three months; the average length of confinement being thirty days. All prisoners committed are under sum- mary convictions of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, together with refractory apprentices committed by the City Chamber- lain. The employment of prisoners is as follows : — Male prisoners, sentenced to and fit for hard labour, are employed on the treadwheel, by which corn is ground for the supply of the three branches of the establishment, Bridewell, Beth- lehem, and the House of Occupations. Prisoners under fourteen years of age, with others who are unfit for the wheel, or who have not been sentenced to hard labour, are employed in picking coir and in cleaning the wards. A portion of the females are employed in washing, mending, and getting up the linen and bedding of the prisoners, and the others in picking junk and cleaning their side of the prison. The punishments for breaches of prison rules are diminution of food (with or without solitary confinement, as the case may be), and irons in cases of a violent and refractory nature. There is no whipping for offences committed within the prison. Observe. — Over chimney in Court-room large picture by Hol- bein, representing Edward VI. delivering the Charter of Endowment to the Mayor.
" Holbein lias placed his own head in one corner of the picture. Vertue has engraved it. This picture it is believed was not completed by Holbein, both he and the King dying immediately after the dona- tion."— Horace Walpole.
The scene of the 4 th plate of Hogarth's Harlot's Progress is laid in Bridewell.
HORSEMOXGER LANE GAOL, Horsemonger Lane, Southwakk, is the county gaol for Surrey. Here Mr. Leigh Hunt was confined for two years (1812-14) for a libel on the Prince Regent in the Examiner newspaper, and here (Nov. 13th, 1849) Mr. and Mrs. Manning were^huug. The place of execution is the top of the prison. " I was a witness," says Mr. Charles Dickens, " of the execution of the Mannings at Horsemonger-lane. I went there with the intention of observing the crowd gathered to behold it, and I had excel- lent opportunities of doing so, at intervals all through the
EXECUTIONS. 147
night, and continuously from daybreak until after the spectacle was over. I believe that a sight so inconceivably awful as the wickedness and levity of the immense crowd collected at that execution could be imagined by no man, and could be presented in no heathen land under the sun. The horrors of the gibbet and of the crime which brought the wretched murderers to it, faded in my mind before the atrocious bearing, looks and language, of the assembled spectators. When I came upon the scene at midnight, the shrillness of the cries and howls that were raised from time to time, denoting that they came from a concourse of boys and girls already assembled in the best places, made my blood run cold. As the night went on, screeching, and laughing, and yelling in strong chorus of parodies on Negro melodies, with substitutions of ' Mrs. Manning ' for ' Susannah ' and the like were added to these. When the day dawned, thieves, low prostitutes, ruffians and vagabonds of every kind, nocked on to the ground, with every variety of offensive and foul behaviour. Fightings, faintings, whistlings, imitations of Punch, brutal jokes, tumultuous demonstrations of indecent delight when swooning women were dragged out of the crowd by the police with their dresses disordered, gave a new zest to the general entertainment. When the sun rose brightly —as it did — it gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned faces, so inexpressibly odious in their brutal mirth or cal- lousness, that a man had cause to feel ashamed of the shape he wore, and to shrink from himself, as fashioned in the image of the Devil. When the two miserable creatures who attracted all this ghastly sight about them were turned quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to judgment, no more restraint in any of the previous obsce- nities, than if the name of Christ had never been heard in this world, and there were no belief among men but that they perished like the beasts. I have seen, habitually, some of the worst sources of general contamination and corruption in this country, and I think there are not many phases of London life that could surprise me. I am solemnly con- vinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise to be done in this city, in the same compass of time, could work such rum as one public execution, and I stand astounded and appalled by the wickedness it exhibits. I do not believe that any community can prosper where such a scene of horror and demoralisation as was enacted this morning outside Horsemonger-lane Gaol is presented at the very doors of good citizens, and is passed by, unknown or forgotten."
148 PRISONS.
MILLBANK PRISON is a mass of brickwork equal to a fortress, on the left bank of the Thames, close to Vauxhall Bridge; erected on ground bought in 1799 of the Marquis of Salisbury, and established pursuant to 52 Geo. III., c. 44, passed Aug. 20th, 1812. It was designed by Jeremy Bentham, to whom the fee-simple of the ground was conveyed, and is said to have cost the enormous sum of half a million sterling. The external walls form an irregular octagon, and enclose upwards of sixteen acres of land. Its ground-plan resembles a wheel, the governor's house occupying a circle in the centre, from which radiate six piles of building, terminating exter- nally in towers. The ground on which it stands is raised but little above the river, and was at one time considered unhealthy. It was first named " The Penitentiary," or " Penitentiary House for London and Middlesex," and was called " The Millbank Prison," pursuant to 6 & 7 Victoria, c. 26. It is the largest prison in London, and contains accommodation for 1120 prisoners; the number of inmates averaging about 700. Every male and female convict sen- tenced to transportation in Great Britain is sent to Millbank, previous to the sentence being executed. Hei-e they remain about three months under the close inspection of three inspectors, at the end of which time the inspectors report to the Home Secretary, and recommend the place of transpor- tation. So far as the accommodation of the prison permits, the separate system is adopted. The number of persons in Great Britain and Ireland condemned to transportation every year amounts to about 4000. Admission to inspect — order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, or the Directors of Government Prisons, 25, Parliament-street, Westminster.
THE MODEL PRISON, Pentonville, owes its origin to Sir James Graham's dispatch of December, 1842; established pursuant to 5 & 6 Vict., sess. 2, c. 29, for the detention of convicts condemned to and intended for transportation. The prison contains 1000 separate cells. The inmates are detained for two years, and are taught useful trades before being sent abroad; a most merciful and charitable provision, which it is to be hoped, may prove successful. The cost of each prisoner is about 15s. a week. The first stone was laid, 1840, and the building completed in 1842. The total cost was S4,16SZ. 12s. 2d,
THE HOUSE OF CORRECTION, Cold Bath Fields, will hold about 1200 prisoners, and is under the direction of the Middlesex Magistrates and the Secretary of State for the
EXHIBITIONS. 149
Home Department. There is a similar House of Correction at Westminster. The principal prisons for debtors are The Queen's Bench in the Borough of Lambeth, and Whitecross Street Prison. The famous Fleet Prison was abolished during the reign of her present Majesty.
The City of London Prison, Holloway, (Mr. Bunning, Architect,) now (1851) nearly completed, will contain the class of prisoners committed at present to Giltspur Street House of Correction and the House of Correction for women at the Borough Compter : while, in the same way, the New House of Correction at Wandsworth will relieve the Surrey or Horsemonger Lane Gaol.
PERMANENT FREE EXHIBITIONS.
BEITISH MUSEUM, in Great Russell Street, Blooms- bury; built 1823-51 from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, but completed by his younger brother Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. The sculpture in the pediment is by Sir Richard Westmacott.
The Public are admitted to the Museum on Mondays, Wed- nesdays and Fridays, between 10 and 4, from the 7th of Sep- tember to 1st of May; and between 10 and 7, from the 7th of May to 1st of September, and daily during the weeks of Easter, Whitsuntide, and Christmas, except Saturdays. Chil- dren under 8 years of age are not admitted.
The Reading Room is open every day, except on Sundays, on Ash- Wednesday, Good-Friday, Christmas-day, and on any fast or thanksgiving days, ordered by authority : except also between the 1st and 7th of January, the 1st and 7th of May, and the 1st and 7th of September, inclusive. The hours are from 9 till 7 during May, June, July, and August ; and from 9 till 4 during the rest of the year. Persons desirous of admission are to send in their applications in writing (spe- cifying their christian and surnames, rank or profession, and places of abode), to the Principal Librarian, or, in his absence, to the Secretary, or, in his absence, to the senior Under Libra- rian, who will either immediately admit such persons, or lay their applications before the next meeting of the trustees. Every person applying is to produce a recommendation satisfactory to a trustee or an officer of the house. Applica- tions defective in this respect will not be attended to. Per- mission will in general be granted for six months ; and at the expiration of this term fresh application is to be made for a renewal. The tickets given to readers are not transferable,
150 BRITISH MUSEUM.
and no person can be admitted without a ticket. Persons under 18 years of age are not admissible. Artists are ad- mitted to study in the Galleries of Sculpture, between the hours of 9 and 4, every day, except Saturday.
The Museum is closed from the 1st to the 7th of January, the 1st to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of September, inclusive, on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and Christmas Day, and also on any special fast or thanksgiving day, ordered by Authority.
The Print Room is closed on Saturdays.
The Medal and Print Rooms can be seen only by few persons at a time, and by particular permission.
The British Museum originated in an offer to Parliament, found in the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), of the whole of his collection for 20,000?.— 30,000?. less than it was said to have cost him. The offer was at once accepted, and an Act passed in 1753, "for the purchase of the Museum or Collection of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., and of the Harleian Collection of MBS., and procuring one general repository for the better reception and more convenient use of the said Collection, and of the Cottonian Library, and additions thereto." In pursuance of this Act the sum of 300,000?. was raised by a Lottery ; 20,000?. paid for the Sloane Museum, 10,000?. for the Harleian Collection of MSS., and 10,250?. to the Earl of Halifax for Montague House in Bloomsbury — a mansion at that time perfectly well adapted for all the objects of the Museum. The collections increasing, new rooms were added to receive the Egyptian Antiquities obtained in 1801. A new British Museum (the present) was commenced in 1823, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke ; but the building is not yet finished. The government of the Museum is vested in trustees, and the chief Gifts and Bequests include the Cotton MSS. ; a col- lection of Books, and the interest of 7000?., bequeathed by Major Edwardes ; the Royal Library of the Kings of England; Garrick's Collection of Old Plays; Dr. Birch's Books and MSS. ; Thomas Tyrwhitt's Books ; Rev. C. Cracherode's Books, Prints, &c, valued at 40,000?. ; Sir Wil- liam Musgravo's Books, MSS., and Prints ; Payne Knight's Books, Bronzes, and Drawings; Sir Joseph Banks's Books and Botanical Specimens; Library formed by George III. : and Mr. Grenvillo's Library. The Additional Purchases include Sir William Hamilton's Collection, 8400?. ; Townloy Marbles, 28,200?. ; Phigalian Marbles, 19,000?. ; Elgin Marbles, 35,000?. ; Dr. Burney's MSS.,1 3,500?. ; Lansdownc MSS.,
GROUND PLAN OF THE BRITISH MUSEU1
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A 'Waiting Room. |
F' |
North-west Staircase. |
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B Principal Staircase. |
G |
Dusting Room. |
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C Print Room. |
H |
Sorting Room. |
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D D, &c. Officers' Rooms. |
I |
For ATashing Hands. |
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E E Lobbies. |
J |
Clerks' Room. |
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E' North-east Entrance Lobby. |
K |
Trustees' Room. |
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E" Noith-west Entrance Lobby. |
L |
Phigalian Gallery. |
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F North-east Staircase. |
152 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES.
4925?. ; Arundel MSS., 3559?. The reader may purchase a synopsis of the contents of the Museum shown to the public, in the Hall, as you enter, price one shilling. This synopsis has been compiled under the direction of the trustees, and follows objects locally. In this work it has been thought better to classify the principal objects of interest.
The Egyptian Antiquities are in two rooms — one on the ground floor, called " The Egyptian Saloon ; " the other up- stairs, called " The Egyptian Room." The Saloon on the ground floor consists of the heavier objects, such as Sarcophagi, Columns, Statues, Tablets of the Dead, Sepulchral Urns, &c. This collection, the finest in Europe for colossal antiquities, comprises about 6000 objects. Observe. — In the Egyptian Saloon, two Lions Couchant, in red granite, (1 and 34), " perfect models of Architectonic Sculpture." — Waagen. Colossal Head, 9 feet high, of Rameses II., but better known as the Young Memnon, found in the Memnonium at Thebes, by Belzoni, and deservedly regarded as the most celebrated monu- ment of Egyptian art in any European collection. Colossal Head of a king wearing the pshent, discovered by Belzoni in Karnak. Statue in red granite of Menepthah II. Colossal Ram's Head. The chest of the Sarcophagus of the monarch Her-necht-hebi, (supposed to be either Amyrtseus orNectabes,) of the Twenty-eighth Dynasty, found, according to the French, who first discovered it, in the court-yard of the Mosque of S. Athanasius, at Alexandria. Dr. Clarke, the traveller, fancied that this was the identical sarcophagus which once contained the body of Alexander the Great. Colossal Scaraboeus. The Rosetta Stone, containing three inscriptions of the same import, namely, one in hieroglyphics, another in a written character called demotic or enchoreal, and a third in the Greek language. This celebrated stone fur- nished the late Dr. Young with the first clue towards the decyphering of the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was found (1799) by M. Bouchard, a French officer of engineers, in digging the foundation of a house, near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, among the remains of an ancient temple dedi- cated by Pharaoh Necho to the god Necho, and came into the hands of the English by the sixteenth article of the capitulation of Alexandria, which required that all objects of art collected by the French Institute in Egypt should be delivered up to the English. The stone itself is a piece of black basalt, much mutilated, about 3 feet long, by 2 feet 5 inches broad, and from 10 to 12 inches thick, and contains a decree set up in the reign of Ptolemams V. (Epiphanes,) probably about the year B.C. 196. The principal historical facts mentioned arc the birth of the King B.C., 209; the
NINEVEH MARBLES. 153
troubles in Egypt, and the decease of his father Philopator ; the attack of Antiochus by sea and land ; the siege of Lyco- polis ; the inundation of the Nile, B.C., 198 ; the chastisement of the revolters ; the coronation of the King at Memphis, B.C. 196 ; and the issue of the decree itself the following day. — The Egyptian Room contains 102 glass cases. Cases 1 to 5 comprise Deities; Cases 8 to 11 contain the Sacred Animals; Cases 12 and 13 consist of small Statues; Cases 14 to 19 of Household Furniture and other large objects; Cases 20 and 21 of objects of Dress and Toilette; Cases 22 to 26 of Vases, Lamps, &c. ; Cases 28 and 29 of Bowls, Cups, &c. ; Cases 33 to 35 of Vases of Bronze, Agri- cultural Implements, Viands, &c. ; Cases 36 and 37 of Frag- ments of Tombs, Weapons, &c. ; Case 39 of Inscriptions, Instruments of Writing, Painting, &c. ; Cases 42 to 45 of Baskets, Tools, Musical Instruments, Play-things, &c. ; Cases 52 to 58 of Animal Mummies. The remaining cases contain Human Mummies, Coffins, Amulets, Sepulchral Ornaments, &c, many of the greatest curiosity, and exhibiting the various modes of embalming practised by the Egyptians, and the various degrees of care and splendour expended on the bodies of different ranks. The visitor may spend hours in this room with very great advantage. Observe. — Models of Egyptian Boats ; Egyptian Wig and Box ; Model of a House, &c. ; Stand with Cooked Waterfowl ; Coffin and Body of Mycerinus from the 3rd Pyramid.
Nineveh Marbles. — These very early and interesting marbles were acquired for this country chiefly by the inde- fatigable exertions of Dr. Layard, and may be classed under the following heads : — Sacred Subjects, Bible Scenes, Scenes representing a Treaty or Submission, Hunting Scenes, Mis- cellaneous Slabs and Fragments. An obelisk covered with small highly finished bas-reliefs, with arrow-headed inscrip- tions, representing a conquered nation bearing tribute animals, &c, to the king of Assyria, is one of the most curious historic monuments in the Museum. Two colossal statues of a Human-headed Lion and Bull, and eleven Bassi-relievi, brought from Nimroud, on the left bank of the Tigris, about 25 miles south of Mossul, and the supposed site of the ancient Nineveh. Nine of the relievi apparently relate to the actions of the same king. One represents a bull- hunt, another a lion-hunt. The Nineveh marbles, excepting the colossal statues, and the very largest bas-reliefs, are placed in a cellar under the building.
Etruscan Room, containing a collection of vases discovered in Italy, and known as Etruscan, Grseco-Italian, or painted vases. The collection is arranged chronologically, and
154 ELGIN MARBLES.
according to the localities in which the several antiquities were found. Cases 1 to 5 contain Vases of heavy black ware, some with figures upon them in bas-relief, and principally- found at Cervetri or Caere. Cases 6 and 7 contain the Nolan-Egyptian or Phoenician Vases, with pale backgrounds and figures in a deep reddish maroon colour, chiefly of animals. Cases 8 to 19 contain the early Vases from Vulci, Canino, and the Ponte della Badia, to the north of Rome, with black figures upon red or orange backgrounds, the sub- jects of which are generally mythological. The vases in Cases 20 to 30, executed with more care and finish, are for the most part from Canino and Nola. Those in the centre of the room, Cases 31 to 55, are of a later style, and chiefly from the province of the Basilicata, to the south of Rome ; their subjects are principally relative to Bacchus. Cases 36 to 51 contain Vases from Apulia, resembling in their colour and treatment those of Nola. Cases 56 to 60 are filled with terra-cottas, principally of Etruscan workmanship. Over the cases are several representations of paintings from the walls of Etruscan Tombs at Tarquinii and Corneto.
Elgin Marbles (in the Elgin Saloon). — So called from the Earl of Elgin, Ambassador-Extraordinary to the Porte, who, in 1801, obtained two firmans for their removal to Eng- land. Nos. 1 to 160, from the Parthenon at Athens. The numbers now in use are coloured red. But before proceeding to examine these marbles, the visitor will do well to inspect, with care, the two models in the Phigalian Saloon — one, the restored Model of the Parthenon — the other the Model of the Parthenon after the Venetian bombardment, in 1687. He will then, on entering the Elgin Saloon, proceed to the left, and look at No. 112, (on the floor)— ''The Capital and a piece of the Shaft of one of the Doric Columns of the Par- thenon." He will by this time have got a pretty complete notion of what the Parthenon was like, and may now proceed to examine the Marbles, which are of four kinds : — 1. Marbles in the East Pediment ; 2. Marbles in the West Pediment ;
3. The Metopes or groups which occupied the sqxiare inter- vals between the raised tablets or triglyphs of the frieze;
4. The Frieze. The marbles of the two Pediments are on stages raised above the floor of the Saloon.
Eastredimcnt, Representing the Birth of Minerva.
91 . 92 . 93 . 94 . 95 . 96 97
ELGIN MARBLES. 155
91. Upper part of the figure of Hyperion rising out of the Sea. His arms are stretched forward, in the act of holding the reins of his coursers. 92. Heads of two of the Horses belonging to the Car of Hyperion. 93. Theseus.
" The Theseus is a work of the first order ; hut the surface is corroded by the weather. The head is in that impaired state that I cannot give an opinion upon it; and the limbs are mutilated. I prefer it to the Apollo Belvidere, which, I believe, to be only a copy. It has more ideal beauty than any male statue I know." — Flaxman.
94. Group of two Goddesses (Ceres and Proserpine) seated.
95. Statue of Iris, the messenger of Juno. She is repre- sented in quick motion, as if about to communicate to distant regions the birth of Minerva. 96. A Torso of Vic- tory. 97. A group of the three Fates. 98. Head of a Horse (very fine) from the Car of Night.
West Pediment
Representing the Contest of Minerva
and Neptune for the Guardianship of Attica.
99 . 100 . 101 . 102 . 103 . 104 . 105 . 106
99. The Ilissus, (statue of a river-god, and, after the Theseus, the finest in the collection). 100. The Torso of a male figure, supposed to be that of Cecrops, the founder of Athens. 101. Upper part of the head of Minerva, and originally covered with a bronze helmet, as appears from the holes by which it was fastened to the marble. 102. A por- tion of the chest of the same statue. 103. Upper part of the Torso of Neptune. 104. Another fragment of the statue of Minerva. 105. The Torso of Victoria Apteros : the goddess was represented driving the Car of Minerva, to receive her into it, after her successful contest with Neptune. 106. Fragment of a group which originally consisted of Latona, with her two children, Apollo and Diana. The Metopes (1 — 16, bas-reliefs let into the wall immediately facing you as you enter) represent the battle of the Centaurs and Lapithae. The originals are fifteen in number : the sixteenth (No. 9) is a cast from the original in the Royal Museum at Paris. The Frieze (17 — 90, a series of bas-reliefs, composing the exterior frieze of the Cella of the Parthenon, and let into the four walls of the present Saloon) represents the solemn procession called the Panathensoa, which took place at Athens, every six years, in honour of Minerva. East End, (17—24), Nos. 20 and 23 are casts. The original of 23 is in
156 phictAlian marbles.
the Royal Museum at Paris ; parts, also, of 21 and 22 arc casts. North End, Nos. 25 — 46; West Eud, Nos. 47 — 61; all but 47 are casts; the originals destroyed. South End, Nos. 62—90.
" We possess in England the most precious examples of Grecian Art. The horses of the Frieze in the Elgin Collection appear to live and move, to roll their eyes, to gallop, prance, and curvet. The veins of their faces and legs seem distended with circulation ; in them are distinguished the hardness and decision of bony forms, from the elas- ticity of tendon and the softness of flesh. The beholder is charmed with the deer-like lightness and elegance of their make ; and although the relief is not above an inch from the back ground, and they are so much smaller than nature, we can scarcely suffer reason to persuade us they are not alive." — Flaxman.
Phigalian Marbles, (in the Phigalian Saloon). — 23 bas-reliefs, so called, found in the ruins of the Temple of Apollo Epi curius, built on Mount Cotylion, at a little distance from the ancient city of Phigalia in Arcadia. 1 to 11 represent the Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithae. 12 to 23, the Battle of the Greeks and Amazons. The temple from which they were taken was built by Ictinus, an architect contemporary with Pericles. 24 to 39 are fragments from the same temple. JEgina Marbles. — Over the Phigalian frieze are two pediments of precisely the same form and dimensions as those which decorated the Eastern and Western Ends of the Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius, in the island of iEgina. The subject of the western pediment (on the N. side of the room) is supposed to represent the contest between the Greeks and Trojans for the body of Patroclus. Lycian or Xanthian Marbles. — A series of tombs, bas-reliefs, and statues from the ruined city of Xautlms ; one group formed the ornaments of the Nereid monument of Xanthus — an Ionic peristyle on a basement surrounded with two bands of friezes, representing the conquest of Lycia by the Persians, and the fall of Xanthus as related by Herodotus. The Harpy Tomb is a curious example of very early art. These marbles, of an earlier date than those of the Parthenon, were discovered and brought to England by Sir Charles Fellows. Bodroum Marbles (in the Phigalian Saloon). — 11 bas-reliefs, brought to England, in 1846, from Bodroum, in Asia Minor, the site of the ancient Halicarnassus, and presented to the British Museum by Sir Stratford Canning. They are supposed to have formed part of the Mausoleum or sepulchre, built in the 4th year of the 106th Olympiad, B.C. 357, by Artemisia, Queen of Caria, in honour of her husband, King Mausolus. They were found in a fortress at the entrance of the harbour, having been built into the faces of the exterior and interior
TOWNLEY MARBLES. 157
walls. This fortress was built by the knights of Rhodes, circ. 1400. The stoiy represented is a combat of Amazons and Greek warriors.
Toionley Collection, (so called from Charles Townley, Esq., d. 1810.) by whom they were principally collected. "The ! Townley Marbles ' belong to all periods of art except the most ancient, but the finest statues are probably those of Greek artists during the early times of the Roman empire, and are therefore either separate studies, or copies of works by celebrated early Greek masters. There is no ground for believing, as was formerly imagined, that this or any other English collection with the exception of the sculptures in the Elgin and Phigalian rooms, contains any fine specimens of the best period of pure Greek sculpture. The collections in the Elgin and Phigalian rooms are those alone on whose date we can rely with undoubting certainty." — W. S. Yaux. Observe among the 83 Terra-cottas, Nos. 4, 7, 8, 12, 14, 20, 22, 27, 31, 41, 53, 54. Venus or Dione, found in the baths of Claudius, at Ostia, in 1776 ; the tip of the nose, the left arm, and the right hand are new. Two Colossal Busts of Pallas. Two Colossal Busts of Hercules. Bust of Minerva (No. 16), foimd near Rome ; the helmet, with two owls and the tip of the nose, are new. Two Marble Vases (Nos. 7 and 9) with Bacchanalian Scenes. Statue of Venus, about 3 feet high, found in 1775, near Ostia; the arms are new. Portrait- busts of Homer (very fine), Periander, Pindar, Sophocles, Hippocrates, Epicurus, and Pericles. Bas-relief (Apotheosis of Homer) from the Colonna Palace. Torso of a Venus (No. 20). The celebrated Discobulus or Quoit-thrower (No. 23), found in 1791 in the grounds belonging to Hadrian's villa at Tibur (Tivoli), and supposed to be a copy of the famous bronze statue made by the sculptor Myron ; the left hand has been restored. Statue of Hadrian addressing his army. Female Bust (No. 12), the lower part of which is enclosed in a flower : — supposed to be Clytie, metamorphosed into a sunflower : — bought at Naples, from the Lorrenzano Palace, in 1772. This was Mr. Townley's favourite Marble, and is well known by numerous casts.
Payne Knight's Bronzes are now deposited in the Bronze Room, abutting from the Egyptian Room. The collection is extremely valuable, but too minute to be detailed in the narrow compass of a book like this. The Barberini or Port- land Vase (9| inches high, 21| inches in circumference), discovered in a sepulchral chamber, about 3 miles from Rome, on the road to Frascati, during the pontificate of Urban VIII. (1023-44). Sir William Hamilton bought it
158 MARBLES. — PORTRAITS.
at the sale of the Barberini Library, and subsequently sold it to the Duchess of Portland, at whose sale, in 1786, it was bought in, by the family, for 1029?. It is still the property of the Duke of Portland, and has been deposited in the British Museum since 1810. The ground on which the figures arc wrought is of a dark amethystine blue — semi- transparent ; but it has not as yet been clearly ascertained what the figures represent. This wonderful vase was smashed to pieces, 7th of February, 1845, by a madman, as is sup- posed, of the name of Lloyd, but has since been wonderfully restored, so that the injuries are scarcely visible.
Modem Marbles. — Statue of Shakspeare, by Eoubiliac (executed for Garrick, the actor, by whom it was bequeathed to the British Museum) ; statue of Sir Joseph Banks, by Sir F. Chantrey ; of Hon. Mrs. Damer, by Ceracchi. Bust of Mr. Townley, by Nollekens. Portraits — (suspended on the walls of the Eastern Zoological Gallery). — 116 in number, and not very good. A few, however, deserve to be mentioned : — Vesalius, by Sir Antonio More. Captain William Dampicr, by Murray (both from the Sloane Collection). Sir Robert Cotton, the founder of the Cottonian Library. Sir William Cotton, his son, Robert, Earl of Oxford, and Edward, Earl of Oxford (both presented by the Duchess Dowager of Portland). Humphrey Wanley. George Vertue (presented by his widow). Sir Hans Sloane, half-length, by Slaughter. Dr. Birch (bequeathed by himself). Andrew Marvell. Alexander Pope. Matthew Prior, by Hudson, from an original by Richardson. Oliver Cromwell, by Walker (bequeathed, 1784, by Sir Robert Rich, Bart., to whose great-grandfather, Nathaniel Rich, Esq., then serving as a Colonel of Horse in the Parliament Army, it was presented by Cromwell himself). Mary Davis, an inhabitant of Great Saughall in Cheshire, taken 1668, " cetatis 74:" (at the age of 28 an excrescence grew upon her head, like a wen, which continued 30 years, and then grew into two horns, one of which the profile represents). Thomas Britton, the musical small-coal-man, " cetatis 61, 1703," painted by J. Woolaston, and formerly tho property of Sir Hans Sloane. Miscellaneous Curiosities. — Tho guinea received by Mr. Pulteney, from Sir Robert Walpole, in discharge of a wager, laid in the House of Commons, respecting the correctness of a quotation from Horace. A gold snuff-box set with diamonds, and ornamented with a miniature portrait of Napoleon, by whom it was presented, in 1815, to the late Hon. Mrs. Damer. Another, loss hand- some, presented by Napoleon to Lady Holland. Medal Room. — The Greek coins are arranged in geographical order;
BRITISH MUSEUM LIBRARY. 159
the Roman in chronological ; and the Anglo-Saxon, English, Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, and Irish coins, and likewise the coins of foreign nations, according to the respective countries to which the coins belong; those of each country being kept separate. Romano- British Antiquities. — Mosaic pavement found in excavating for the foundations of the new buildings at the Bank of England. Mosaic Pavement found in digging the foundation of the Hall of Commerce in Threadneedle- street.
The Library of Printed Books is said to consist of upwards of 460,000 vofunies*, comprising probably 700,000 works, taking each separate pamphlet as a separate work. Compared with the great public libraries on the Continent, it ranks with those of Vienna, Berlin, and Dresden, but is inferior in num- ber of separate works to those of Munich and Paris. Here is the library of the Kings of England, presented to the nation by George II., containing exquisite examples of books bound in embroidered velvet for Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., &c. Gtorye III.'s Library, consisting of upwards of 80,000 volumes, and kept in a separate room, the finest room in the building, was given to the nation by George IV., in 1823, and is said to have cost 130,000^. It is one of the most noble libraries known, remarkable not only for the judicious selection of the works, and the discriminating choice of the editions, but for the bibliographical peculiarities and rarity of the copies. The number of books on large paper is un- usually great. Among the rarities may be mentioned; the earliest printed Bible and the earliest printed book known, commonly called the Mazarine Bible ; supposed to have issued from the press of Gutenberg and Fust, at Mentz, about 1455 — it is in Latin and on vellum ; the first printed Psalter, in Latin, on vellum — printed at Mentz, by Fust and Schoeifer, in 1457; the first book printed with a date, and the first example of printing in colours ; iEsop's Fables — printed at Milan, about 1480 ; the first edition of the first Greek classic printed : the first edition of Homer — Florence, 1488 ; for- merly in the possession of the historian De Thou : Virgil — printed at Venice, by Aldus, in 1501; on vellum: the first book printed in Italic types ; and the earliest attempt to produce cheap books : — it belonged to the Gonzaga family,
* Panizzi's Short Guide, dated 1-lth of May, 1S51. " On the 25th of July, 1S38, the volumes of printed books in the British Museum being Counted one by one, as they stood on the shelves, were found to be in round numbers 235,000. Counted in the same manner on the 15tb of Dec, 1S19, they were found to amount to 435,000. The collectioa now consists of upwards of 400,000 vols." p. 33.
160 READING ROOM. — MANUSCRIPTS.
and carries the autographs of the two Cardinals Ippolito and Ercole, as well as that of Vincenzo Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua.* The room by your right on entering the hall contains the col- lection of 20.240 volumes, bequeathed to the nation by the Eight Hon. Thomas Grenville. It is said to have cost Mr. Grenville upwards of 54,000/. Other liberal donors have been Rev. C. M. Cracherode, David Garrick, Sir Joseph Banks, &c. The entrance to the Reading Rooms is in Montague-place, and the number of visitors to the Rooms in one year is about 70,000. The catalogues of printed books and MSS. are in the room to the left as you enter. The books generally in use, dictionaries, &c, are on the shelves of the rooms you sit in. Having consulted the catalogue and found the title of the book you require, you transcribe the title, on a printed form given below, to be found near the catalogues, from whence you derive your references.
|
Press Mark. |
Title of the Work wanted, j Size. |
Place. |
Date. |
|
i 1 |
(Date) (Signature)
Please to restore each volume of the Catalogue to its place, as soon as done with.
READERS ARE PARTICULARLY REQUESTED
1. Not to ask for more than one work on the same ticket.
2. To transcribe literally from the Catalogues the title of the Work
wanted.
3. To write in a plain clear hand, in order to avoid delay aud
mistakes.
4. Before leaving the Room, to return the books to an attendant, and
to obtain the corresponding ticket, the Reader being respon- sible for the Books so long as the Ticket remains uncancelled. K.B. — Readers are, under no circumstances, to take any Book or M8. out of the Reading Rooms.
The tickets for Printed Books are on white paper; for MSS. on green paper. (Respecting admission, see p. xliv.)
Manuscripts. — The manuscripts in the Museum are divided under sevei\al heads, of which the following are the chief: — the Cotton MSS. (catalogued in 1 vol. folio); the Harleian MSS. (catalogued in 4 vols, folio); the Lansdowne MSS. (catalogued in 2 vols, folio); the Royal MSS. (catalogued in 1 vol. quarto, called Casley's Catalogue); the Sloane and
• Panizzi's Short Guide (1851), p. 10.
1'UIST ROOM. 101
Birch MSS. (in 1 vol. quarto); the Arundel MSS.; tlio Burney, Hargrave, and 'a large and Miscellaneous collection of "Additional MSS." in number about 30,000. The rarest MSS. are entitled " Select/' and can only be seen and exa- mined in the presence of an attendant. The contents of two cases alone are valued at above a quarter of a million. Among the more remarkable we may mention : — Copy of the Gospels in Latin (Cotton MSS., Tiberius A. II, the only un- doubted relic of the ancient regalia of England), sent over to Athelstane by his brother-in-law the emperor Otho, between 936 and 940, given by Athelstane to the metropolitan church of Canterbury, and borrowed of Sir Kobert Cotton to be used at the coronation of Charles I. The " Book of St. Cuthbert" or " Durham Book," a copy of the Gospels in Latin, written in the seventh century by Eadfrith, Bishop of Lindisfarne, and illuminated by Athelwald, the succeeding bishop. The Bible, said to have been written by Alcuin for Charlemagne. The identical copy of Guiar des Moulix's version of Pierre le Mangeur's Biblical History, which was found in the tent of John, King of France, at the battle of Poictiers. MS. of Cicero's translation of the Astronomical Poem of Aratus. An Anglo-Saxon MS. of the ninth century. Psalter written for Henry VI. (Cotton MS., Dom. XVIL). Le Roman de la Rose (Hark MS. 4425). Henry VIII.'s Psalter, containing Portraits of Himself and Will Somers. Lady Jane Grey's Prayer Book. Queen Elizabeth's Prayer Book, written in a print-hand ; the cover is her own needle-work. Harl. MS. (7334), supposed to be the best MS. of Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. Portrait of Chaucer, by Occleve (from which Vertue made his engrav- ing). Froissart's Chronicles, with many curious illustrations — often engraved. Matthew Paris, illuminated. A volume of Hours executed circ. 1490, by a Flemish Artist, (Hemme- linck?) for Philip the Fair, of Castile, or for his wife Joanna, mother of the Emperor Charles V. Carte Blanche which Prince Charles (Charles II.) sent to Parliament to save his father's life. Oliver Cromwell's Letter to the Speaker, de- scribing the Battle of ISTaseby. Original MS. of Pope's Homer, written on the backs of letters. Stow's collections for his Annals and his Survey of London. 317 volumes of Syriac MSS., obtained from Egyptian monasteries by Mr. Rich and Mr. Tattam.
Print Room. — Drcmings, <L-c. — A small, but interesting, and in some respects valuable, collection, containing specimens of Fra Beato Angelico, Fra Filippo, Domenico Ghirlandajo, Pietro Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo,
162 MINERALOGY. ZOOLOGY.
Durer, Hans Holbein, Eembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Back- huysen,A. Ostade, &c. 25 of the finer specimens are framed and hung up. Observe — Impression in sulphur of the famous Pax of Maso Finiguerra, cost 250 guineas. Silver Pax by the same master. Carving in soap-stone, in high relief, by Albert Durer (dated 1510), representing the Birth of John the Baptist. Prints. — Mare Antonio's (fine). Lucas van Leyden's (fine). Albert Durer's (fine). Rembrandt's (in 8 volumes, the finest known). Van Dyck etchings (good); Early Italian School (numerous and fine). Dutch etchings, (the Sheepshanks collection, containing Waterloo, Berghem, P. Potter, A. Ostade, &c, the finest known). Sir Joshua Reynolds's works (not all proofs). Raphael Morghen's works. Faithorne's works (in 5 volumes, very fine). Hogarth's works (good). Crowle's collections to illustrate Pennant's London (cost 7000Z.). Works of Strange, Woollett and Sharp (good). Stothard's works, in 4 volumes (fine).
Mineralogy and Geology, (in the N. Gallery). — The system adopted for the arrangement of the minerals, with occasional slight deviations, is that of Berzelius. The detail of this arrangement is partly supplied by the running titles at the outsides of the glass cases, and by the labels within them. Observe (in the Class of Native Iron, one of the largest collec- tions known of meteoric stones or substances which have fallen from the sky, placed in chronological order). — Large fragment of the stone which fell at Ensisheim, in Alsace, Nov. 7th, 1492, when the Emperor Maximilian was on the point of engaging with the French army: this mass, which weighed 270 lbs., was preserved in the cathedral of Ensis- heiui till the beginning of the French Revolution, when it was conveyed to the public library of Colmar ; — one of the many stones which fell (July 3rd, 1753) at Plaun, in the circle of Bcchin, Bohemia, and which contain a great propor- tion of attractable iron ; — specimens of those that were seen to fall at Barbotan, at Roquefort, and at Juliac, July 24th, 1790 ; — one of a dozen of stones of various weights and dimensions that fell at Sienna, Jan. 16th, 1794; — the meteoric stone, weighing 5G lbs., which fell near Wold Cottage, in the parish of Thwing, Yorkshire, Dec. 13th, 1795; — fragment of a stone of 20 lbs., which fell in the commune of Sales, near Villefranche, in the department of the Rhone, March 1 2th, 1 798. Observe, in Case 20, Dr. Dec's Show-stone.
Zoology. — This collection is superior to that at Berlin, and only inferior to that in the Museum at Paris. Mammalia Saloon. — In the wall-cases of this saloon are arranged the specimens of Rapacious and Hoofed Beasts ; and over the
ZOOLOGY. 163
cases, the different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and Porpoises ; and on the floor are placed the larger hoofed beasts, too large to be arranged in their proper places in the cases. Here, on the floor, is the Wild Ox from Chillingham Park, Northum- berland. Eastern Zoological Gallery. — The wall-cases contain the collection of Birds; the smaller table-cases in each recess contain birds' Eggs, arranged in the same series as the birds ; the larger table-cases, in the centre of the room, contain the collection of Shells of Molluscous Animals ; and on the top of the wall-cases is a series of Horns of hoofed quadrupeds. Here, among the "Wading Birds (Case 108), is the foot of the Dodo, a bird now extinct, only known by a few scanty remains, and by a painting here preserved, drawn, it is said, from a living bird brought from the Mauritius. The collec- tions of Organic Remains are in Rooms I. to VI. Here is a very curious collection, formed chiefly by the exertions of Mr. Hawkins, Dr. Mantell, and Captain Cautley of the Bengal Artillery. On a table in Room I., and in the centre of the room, is a Tortoise of nephrite or jade, found on the banks of the Jumna, near the city of Allahabad in Hindoo- stan: 1000Z. was once offered for it. In and on the wall-cases of Room IV. are placed the larger specimens of the various species of Ichthyosaurus, or the fish-lizard. The most striking specimens are the Platyodon in the central case, and various bones of its gigantic variety on the top of the same case and in Case 2, such as the head cut transversely to show the internal structure of the jaws; the carpal bones of one of the extremities, &c. : all from the Has of Lyme Regis in Dorsetshire. In the centre of Room V. is a complete skeleton of the large extinct Elk, bones of which are so frequently met with in the bogs of Ireland, and occasionally in some parts of England, and the Isle of Man. The present specimen is from Ireland : it is the Cervus megaceros and C. giganteus of authors. In Room VI. is the entire skeleton of the American Mastodon (Mastodon Ohioticus), and suite of separate bones and teeth of the same animal : the jaws, tusks, molar teeth and other osseous parts of Elephas primigenius, especially those of the Siberian variety (the Mammoth of early writers): the crania and other parts of extinct Indian Elephants. At the W. end of the same room (VI.) is the fossil human skeleton brought from Guadaloupe, embedded in a limestone which is in process of formation at the present day. Northern Zoological Gallery, Room I. — The wall-cases contain a series of the Skulls of the larger Mammalia, to illustrate the characters of the families and genera ; and of the Nests of birds, and the arbours of the
H 2
164 NATIONAL GALLERY.
two species of Bower Bird ; the one ornamented with fresh water shells and bones, and the other with feathers and land shells, &c. The table-cases ; — the tubes of Annulose Animals, the casts of the interior cavities of Shells, and various speci- mens of shells, illustrative of the diseases and malformation of those animals. Boom II. — The wall-cases contain the col- lection of Beptiles and Batrachian Animals, preserved dry and in spirits; and the table-cases the first part of the collection of the hard part of Badiated Animals, including Sea Eggs, Sea Stars, and Encrinites. Boom III. — The waH cases contain the Handed and Glirine Mammalia, and the table-cases the different kinds of Corals. Boom IV. — The wall-cases contain the collection of Fish, and the table-cases a few specimens of Annulose Animals, to exhibit their systematic arrangement. The general collection of Insects and Crustacea are preserved in cabinets. They may be seen by persons wishing to consult them for the purpose of study (by application to the Keeper of the Zoological Collection) every Tuesday and Thursday. To prevent disappointment, it is requested that persons wishing to see those collections will apply two days previous to their intended visit. Boom V. — The wall-cases contain the Molluscous and Badiated Animals in spirits. Over the wall-cases is a very large Wasp's Nest from India; and some Neptune's Cups — a kind of sponge — from Singapore. Table-cases : — Sponges of different kinds, showing their various forms and structure, and some preserved in flint of the same character. Botany. — The Botanical Collection is very large, and consists principally of the collection bequeathed by Sir Joseph Banks.
The NATIONAL GALLEBY occupies the whole north side of Trafalgar-square, and stands on the site of the King's Mews. It is divided between the national collection of paintings of the old masters, filling the western half; and the Boyal Academy, occupying the eastern half, in which exhibitions of modern works are held from May to July. The Gallery was founded in 1824, and the present building erected, 1832-38, from the designs of W. Wilkins, B.A., at a cost of 96,000£. The columns of the portico were those of Carlton House.
The National Gallery is open on Monday, Tuesday, Wed- nesday, and Thursday, to the public generally ; on Friday and Saturday to artists ; from 10 till 5 during the months of November, December, January, February, March, and April, — and from 10 till G during the months of May, June, July, August, and the first two weeks of September. The Gallery
NATIONAL GALLERY. 165
is wholly closed during the last two weeks of September and the month of October.
The Gallery originated in the purchase by Government, in 1824, of Mr. Angerstein's collection of 38 pictures for 57,000£. In 1826, Sir George Beaumont made a formal gift of 16 pictures, valued at the time at 7500 guineas. Important bequests by the Rev. W. Holwell Carr, Lord Farnborough and others, and other purchases by the Government, have brought the collection, in less than a quarter of a century, to 228 pictures, independently of Mr. Vernon's noble gift of 162 works of the English school. It is very inferior to the great galleries on the continent ; but, in many respects, is a highly important collection, containing, as it does, some of the best examples of the greatest painters. Cheap catalogues of the pictures, from a penny to a shilling, (Mr. Wornum's is by far the best), may be had both within and without the Gallery. I shall therefore content myself with giving a classed cata- logue in schools of the best pictures by the best masters.
Italian School.
Francesco Fraxcia : the Virgin and Child with Saints: the Lunette, or Arch forming the top of the same altar-piece. These two fine pictures were purchased by Parliament from the Lucca Collection for 8500?. — Sebastian del Piombo : the Raising of Lazarus. " The most important specimen of the Italian School now in England." — Waagen. It was painted in competition with Raphael's Transfiguration. The figure of Lazarus (veiy fine) attributed on good grounds to Michael Angelo. This was an Orleans picture, and cost Mr. Angerstein 3500 guineas. — Raphael : St. Catherine of Alexandria ; purchased by Parliament, in 1838, for 5000?. : the Vision of a Knight (fine) ; purchased by Parliament for 1050?. : the Murder of the Innocents ; part of a Cartoon, now painted over with oil-colour. — L. da Vinci, or Luixi : Christ disputing with the Doctors. — Cokreggio : Mercury teaching Cupid to read in the presence of Venus (very fine) : Ecce Homo (very fine). These two fine pictures were purchased by Parliament from the Marquis of Londonderry for 10,000 guineas. The Holy Family: "La Vierge au Panier" (very fine); purchased by Parliament, in 1847, for 3800?. — Titian: a Concert; originally in Charles I.'s collection ; "Waagen attributes it to Giorgione : a Holy Family, from the Borghese Palace (fine) : Bacchus and Ariadne (fine). — Caracci (Anxibal) : Christ appearing to St. Peter, from the Aldobrandini Collection. "This little picture is admirably executed throughout." — Waagen. Pan or Silenus teaching Apollo to play on the reed pipe. — Caracci (Ludovico) : Susannah and the Elders ; an Orleans picture. — Guido : Venus attired by the Graces : the Magdalen : Susannah and the Elders ; purchased by Government, at Mr. Penrice's sale, for 1260?.— Claude : Landscape, Cephalus and Procris ; painted in 1645: Landscape, called the " Chigi Claude " (fine); cost Mr. Carr 2705 guineas : a Seaport, called the " Bouillon Claude " (very fine) ; cost Mr. Angerstein 4000?. ; the figures represent the Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba : Landscape, with the story of Narcissus : a Seaport ; the figures represent the Embarkation of St. Ursula and her attendant Virgins (very fine) : a Landscape, Death of Procris: a Group of Trees: Landscape, Hagar and her Son in the Desert (fine). — Salvator Rosa : Landscape with
166 NATIONAL GALLERY.
the fable of Mercury and the Woodman ; purchased by Parliament, in 1834, for 1680?. — Canaletti : View in Venice (fine).
Spanish School. Velasquez : Philip IV. of Spain hunting the Wild Boar (very fine) ; purchased by Parliament, in 1846, for 2200?. — Murillo : the Holy Family ; four figures, life-size ; purchased by Parliament, in 1837, for 3000?.: the Infant St. John with the Lamb; purchased by Parliament, at Sir Simon Clarke's sale, for 2100?. The companion picture, " The Good Shepherd," belongs to Baron Lionel Rothschild, and is now at Gunners- bury Park, near London,
Flemish School. John Van Eyck : Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and a Lady (very fine); under the mirror is written, "Johannes de Eyck fuit hie 1434 ; " purchased by Parliament, in 1842, for 600 guineas.— Rubens : the Rape of the Sabines : Peace and War (fine), presented by Rubens to Charles I.; bought by the Marquis of Stafford for 3000?., and presented by him to the National Gallery: the Brazen Serpent: a Landscape; Rubens's Chateau (fine) ; cost Sir George Beaumont 1500?. : Apotheosis of William the Taciturn ; a sketch for the large design at Osterley, the seat of Lord Jersey (fine) ; purchased in 1842, for 200?. : the Judgment of Paris (very fine); an Orleans picture; purchased by Parliament, iu 1847, for 4200?.— Van Dyck : St. Ambrosius refusing to admit the Em- peror Theodosius into the church at Milan (fine) ; cost Mr. A ngerstein 1600?. : a Portrait called Gevartius (one of the finest portraits in the world) ; cost Mr. Angerstein 375?. — Rembrandt : the Woman taken in Adultery (very fine); Mr. Angerstein bought it at Christie's, in 1807, for 5250?.: Portrait of a Jew-merchant, life-size, three-quarters: Christ taken down from the Cross ; a study in black and white (fine) : the Adoration of the Shepherds. — Cuyp: a Landscape, Huntsman on a dappled grey horse (fine) ; bought by Mr. Angerstein at Sir Laurence Dundas's sale, in 1794, for 204?. 15s. — Arnold Vander Neer : a Land- scape, Evening. — Nicholas Maes : a Girl peeling parsnips (fine). — David Teniers : the Misers (very fine).
French School. Sebastian Bourdon : the Return of the Ark (belonged to Sir Joshua Reynolds, who pi-aises it in his Discourses). — N. Poussin : a Landscape : a Dance of Bacchanals in honour of Pan (very fine). — G. Poussin: Landscape ; the figures represent Abraham preparing to sacrifice his son Isaac : a Land-storm : a classical Landscape, with the story of Dido and ^neas (fine) : View of Lerici (fine) : an Italian Landscape; cost Lord Farnborough 700 guineas.
Observe. — In the Hall : the colossal Waterloo Vase, by Sir Richard Westmacott, weighing 20 tons; in height 16 feet, and in diameter between 9 and 10 feet. The three blocks of which this vase was composed were intended by Napoleon to have been fashioned into a vase to celebrate his victories. The Duke of Tuscany presented them to George IV.. Avho caused them to be made into the present vase to celebrate the downfall of Napoleon. Statue of Sir David Wilkie, by S. Joseph; Wilkie's palette is let into the pedestal. Alto- relievo, by T. Banks, R.A., Thetis and her Nymphs rising from the sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of Patroclus (fine).
VERNON GALLERY. 167
MARLBOROUGH HOUSE, (temporary place of deposit of a portion of the National Gallery, consisting entirely of the English school.) Built 1709-10 by Sir C. Wren for John Churchill, the great Duke of Marlborough, on ground leased to him by Queen Anne. The great duke and his duchess both died in this house. The duchess used to speak of her neighbour George, meaning the King in St. James's Palace, and here she is described as receiving a deputation of the Lord Mayor and sheriffs, "sitting up in her bed in her usual manner." The Pall-mall entrance to the house being, as it still is, extremely bad, the duchess designed a new one, and was busy trying to effect the neces- sary purchases when Sir Robert Walpole, wishing to vex her, stept in and bought the very leases she was looking after. The sham archway, facing the principal entrance to the house, forms a sort of screen to the parlours in Pall-mall. This was turning the tables on the duchess, who had employed Wren to vex Vanbrugh. Marlborough House was bought by the Crown in 1817 for the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold. The Princess died before the assignment was effected, but the Prince (now the King of the Belgians) lived here for several years. The last inhabitant was the widow of William IV. It is now the property of the Prince of Wales, and is only lent for the purposes of a Gallery. The best pictures only are here mentioned. Official catalogues, price 2d., may be bought at the door.
Paintings of the English School.
Huysman : Original Portrait of Izaak Walton, the angler. — Hogarth . Portrait of Himself (the well-known engraved head) ; the Marriage a la Mode (a series of six pictures, Hogarth's greatest work ; the character inimitable, the colouring excellent). Hogarth received for the six pic- tures 110 guineas : Mr. Angerstein paid 1381Z. for them. — R. Wilson ; Maecenas' Villa (fine) ; Landscape, with the story of Niobe and her children (very fine). — Gainsborough : the Market-cart; the Watering- place. — Sir Joshua Reynolds : Portrait of Lord Heathfield with the keys of the fortress of Gibraltar (very fine) ; Studies of Angels, five heads, life-size (very fine). — Lawrence: John Philip Kemble, as Hamlet; Portrait of Benjamin West, the painter. — Wilkte: the Blind Fiddler (very fine), painted for 50 guineas for Sir George Beaumont: the Village Festival (fine), painted for Mr. Angerstein.— Constable, E.A . : the Corn-field.— Gilbert Stuart : Portrait of Woollett, the engraver.
The Vernon Collection of the English School.
(162 pictures in all, many very fine, presented to the nation in 1847 by Robert Vernon, Esq., who died in 1849, aged 75.)
{Deceased Artists.) Sir Joshua Reynolds: the Age of Innocence (very fine), cost Mr. Vernon, at Mr. Harman's sale at Christie's, 1450 guineas. — Gains- borough : Landscape, Sunset (fine) ; the Young Cottagers. — Richard Wilson : four small pictures (fine). — Loutherbourgh : small Landscape.
168 DULWICH GALLERY.
—Sir A. W. Callcott, R A. : Littlehampton Pier (fine) ; Coast Scene ; Crossing the Brook. — Wilkie : the Newsmongers (fine) ; the Bagpiper (fine); the First Ear-ring; the Whiteboy?s Cabin.— E. Bird, E. A. : the Raffle for the "Watch. — Coxstable, R.A. : His Father's Mill. — Collixs, R.A.: Happy as a King; Prawn Fishers. — Gr. S. Newton, E.A. : Sterne and the Grisette. — P. Nasmytii: small Landscape in the manner of Hobbema. — W. Etty, R.A. : Youth at the Prow and Pleasure at the Helm (fine); the Bathers (fine). — Turner, R.A. : William III. landing at Torbay; Composition Landscape (fine); Two Yiews in Venice (fine). — Staxfield, R.A. : the Entrance to the Zuyder Zee (fine). — David Roberts, R.A. : Interior of St. Paul's at Antwerp (fine). — T. Uwins, R.A.: Claret Vintage. — F.E.Lee, R.A.: two Landscapes. — T. Cres- wick, R.A. : Landscape'; (fine). — Edwin Landseer, R.A.: Peace and War, companion pictures (Peace very fine) ; Highland Piper and Dogs ; Spaniels of King Charles's breed; the Dying Stag; High Life and Low Life Dogs. — W. Mulready, R.A. : the Last In ; the Ford. — T.Webster, R.A. : the Dame's School (fine).— D. Maclise, R.A. : the Play Scene in Hamlet; Malvolio and the Countess. — Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A.: Christ weeping over Jerusalem. — C. R. Leslie, R.A. : Sancho and the Duchess (Mr. Leslie's greatest work) ; Uncle Toby looking into the eye of Widow Wadman. Mr. Sheepshanks has a fine duplicate of the same subject. — E. M. Ward, A.R.A. : the Disgrace of Clarendon ; 'Change Alley during the South Sea Bubble. — J. Linnell: Landscape. — E. W. Cooke : two Sea pieces. — Sidney Cooper, A.R.A. : a Cattle piece. — F. Danby, A.R.A. : Landscape — Augustus Egg, A.R.A. : Scene from Gil Bias. — F. Goodall : the Village Festival.
The 7 Vernon marbles in the Hall, as you enter, include 6 busts, chiefly copies, and " Hylas surprised by the Naiads," a fine work by John Gibson, R.A.
DULWICH GALLERY, at Dulwich, 5 m. from Waterloo Bridge, is open every day of the week except Fridays and Sundays. Without a ticket no person can be admitted, and no tickets are given in Dulwich. Tickets are to be obtained gratis of Henry Graves and Co., 6, Pall-mall ; Alderman Moon, Thread- needle-street ; Messrs. Colnaghi and Co., Pall-mall East ; Mr. Lloyd, 23, Harley-street ; H. Leggatt and Co., Cornhill ; and Mr. Markby, Croydon, Surrey. Schools, and children under the age of 14, are not admitted. Hours of admission, from April to November, 10 to 5 ; from November to April, 11 to 3. You can reach it by omnibus from the Elephant and Castle in Lambeth, and the Elephant and Castle is easily reached by omnibuses from all parts of London. This Gallery, containing the only collection, freely accessible to the public, which affords an opportunity of studying the Dutch masters, was founded by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A. (d. 1811), who left 354 pictures to the College, 10,000Z. to erect and keep in repair a building for their reception, and 2000?. to provide for the care of the pictures. Bourgeois asked John Philip Kemblc where he should build a gallery for his pictures, and Kemble, an actor, recommended God's Gift College, at Dulwich, erected in the reign of James I.
DULWICH GALLERY. 169
by Edward Alleyn, the keeper of the bears to James I., actor and rival of Richard Burbadge. The hint was taken, and the present Gallery attached to the College built in 1812, from the designs of Sir John Soane. The Murillos and Cuyps are especially fine. Observe. —
Murillo : the Flower Girl, No. 248 ; Spanish Boys, Nos. '283 and 284 ; the Madonna del Rosario, No. 341 ; Meeting of Jacob and Rachel, No. 294. — Cuyp (in all 19) : a Landscape, No. 68 ; Banks of a Canal, No. 76 ; a Landscape, No..l69, the finest of the 19 ; Ditto, No. 192 ; Ditto, No. 239 ; Ditto, No. 163. — Tenieks (in all 21) : a Landscape, No. 139; a Land- scape, with Gipsies, No. 155 ; the Chaff Cutter, No. 185 (fine). — Hobbema : the Mill. No. 131. — Rembrandt : Jacob's Dream, No. 179 ; a Girl leaning out of a Window, No. 206. — Rubens : Sampson and Dalilah, No. 168 ; Mars, Venus, and Cupid, No. 351 (the Mars a portrait of Rubens himself when young); Maria Pypeling, the Mother of Rubens, No, 355. — Van Dtck : Charity, No. 124; Virgin and Child, No. 135; Philip, 5th Earl of Pembroke (half-length), No. 214 ; " The head is very delicate ; the hand effaced by cleaning." — Waagen ; Susan, Countess of Pembroke, No 134; " quite ruined by cleaning." — Waagen. — Wouversians : View on the Sea Shore, No. 93; a Landscape, No. 173 ; Ditto, No. 228. — Bergheji : a Land- scape, No. 200 ; Ditto, No. 209. — Both : a Landscape, No. 36. — Velas- quez : Prince of Spain on Horseback, No. 194 ; Philip IV. of Spain (three-quarters), No. 309; Head of a Boy, No. 222. — Adrian Brouwer : Interior of a Cabaret, No. 54.— A. Ostade : Boors Merry-making, No. 190 ; " of astonishing depth, clearness, and warmth of colour." — Waagen. — Karel du Jardin : the Farrier's Shop, No. 229. — Vander Werff : the Judgment of Paris, No. 191. — Van Huysum : Flowers in a Vase, No. 121 ; Flowers, No. 140. — Pynaker : a Landscape, No. 150. — Wat- teau : le Bal Champetre, No. 210. — Titian : Europa, a Study, No .230. — P. Veronese : St. Catherine of Alexandria, No. 26S; a Cardinal, No. 333. — Guercino: the "Woman taken in Adultery, No. 348. — Annibal Caracci : the Adoration of the Shepherds, No. 349. — Guido : Europa, No. 259; Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, No. 339; St. John the Baptist Preaching in the Wilderness, No. 331 (fine). — Caravaggio : the Lock- smith, No. 299. — Claude : Embarkation of Sa. Paula from the Port of Ostia, No. 270. — S. Rosa: a Landscape, No. 220; Soldiers Gambling, No. 271. — G. Poussin : a Landscape, No. 257. — N. Poussin : the Inspi- ration of the Poet, No. 295; the Nursing of Jupiter, No. 300; the Triumph of David, No. 305 ; the Adoration of the Magi, No. 291 ; Rinaldo and Armida, No. 315 (fine). — Francesco Mola : St. Sebastian, No. 261. — Gainsborough : Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell (full-lengths, very fine). Mrs. Sheridan was Maria Linley, the first wife of R. B. She- ridan, the dramatist, No. 1. — Opie : Portrait of Himself, No. 3. — Sir T. Lawrence : Portrait of William Linley (near No. 222).
The Mrs. Siddons and his own Portrait, by Sir Joshua, are indifferent duplicates of the well-known originals in the Grosvenor Gallery and the Queen's Gallery at Windsor.
In the College and Master's apartments at Dulwich, are the following interesting portraits : —
Edward Alleyn, the founder, full-length, black dress, but much injured. Richard Burbadge, master, " a small closet-piece ; " bequeathed by Cart- wright, the actor, in 1687. Nat Field, the poet and actor, " in his shirt on a board, in a black frame, filleted with gold ; " bequeathed by Cartwright in 1687. Tom Bond, the actor ; bequeathed by Cartwright, 1687. Richard Perkins, the actor, three-quarters, long white hair ; bequeathed by Cart- wright, 1687. Cartwright (senior), one of the Prince Palatine's players,
170 COLLEGE OF SURGEONS.
bequeathed by his son in 1687. Cartwright (junior), an actor (My picture in a black dress, with a great dog). Michael Drayton, the poet, " in a black frame ; " bequeathed by Cartwright in 1687. Lovelace, the poet, by Dobson (fine). Lovelace's Althea, with her hair dishevelled. John Greenhill, "the most promising of Lely's scholars" {Walpole), by himself.
In the College is preserved Philip Henslowe's Diary and Account-book, recently printed by the Shakspeare Society, one of the most valuable documents we possess in illustration of the drama and stage in the time of Queen Elizabeth.
The ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, in London, on the S. side of Lincoln' s-Inn-fields, was built, 1835, from the designs of Charles Barry, R A., and is said to have cost 40,000?. ' The Museum is open to the Fellows and Members of the College, and to visitors introduced by them personally, or by written orders stating their names (which orders are not transferable), on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from 12 to 4 o'clock ; except during the month of September, when the Museum is closed.
The museum of the College, at present (1851) under the direction of Richard Owen, the Cuvier of England, originated in the purchase for 15,000Z., made by parliament, of the Hun- terian Collection. John Hunter (the founder) was born in 1728 at Long Calderwood, near Glasgow, and died suddenly in St. George's Hospital, London, in 1793. The Collection is arranged in two apartments — one called the " Physiological Department, or Normal Structures;" the other the "Patho- logical Department, or Abnormal Structures;" — the number of specimens is upwards of 23,000. Observe. — Skeleton (8 feet in height) of Charles Byrne or O'Brian, the Irish giant, who died in Cockspur-street, in 1783, at the age of 22. He measured, when dead, 8 feet 4 inches. — Skeleton (20 inches in height) of Caroline Crachami, the Sicilian dwarf, who died in Bond-street, in 1824, in the 10th year of her age. — Plaster-cast of the right hand of Patrick Cotter, an Irish giant, whose height, in 1802, was 8 feet 7 inches and a half. — Plaster-cast of the left hand of M. Louis, the French giant, whose height was 7 feet 4 inches. — Skeleton of Cbunee, the famous elephant brought to England in 1810 — exhibited for a time on the stage of Covent-garden Theatre, and sub- sequently bought by Mr. Cross, the proprietor of the menagerie at Exeter 'Change. After a return of an annual paroxysm, aggravated, as subsequently appeared, by inflammation of the large pulp of one of the tusks, Chunee, in 1826, became so ungovernably violent that it was found necessary to kill him. Amid the shower of balls, he knelt down at the well-known
COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 171
voice of his keeper, to present a more vulnerable point to the soldiers employed to shoot him, and did not die until he had received upwards of 100 musket and rifle bullets. On the platform is preserved the base of the inflamed tusk, showing a spicula of ivory which projected into the pulp. — Skeleton of the gigantic extinct deer (Megaceros Hibemicus, commonly but erroneously called the "Irish elk"), exhumed from a bed of shell marl beneath a peat-bog near Limerick. The span of the antlers, measured in a straight line between the extreme tips, is 8 feet : the length of a single antler, following the curve, 7 feet 3 inches : height of the skeleton to the top of the skull, 7 feet 6 inches ; to the highest point of the antlers, 10 feet 4 inches : weight of the skull and antlers, 76 pounds.— Female monstrous foetus, found in the abdomen of Thomas Lane, a lad between 15 and 16 years of age, at Sherborne, in Dorsetshire, June 6th, 1814. — Imper- fectly formed male fcetus, found in the abdomen of John Hare, an infant between 9 and 10 months old, born May 8th, 1807. — Human female twin monster, the bodies of which are united crosswise, sacrum to sacrum ; the mother was between 16 and 17 years of age, and was delivered, in 1815, without any particular difficulty. — Intestines of Napoleon, showing the progress of the disease which carried him off. —Cast in wax of the band uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins. — Iron pivot of a try-sail mast, and two views of John Toylor, a seaman, through whose chest the blunt end of the pivot was driven. "While guiding the pivot of the try-sail mast into the main-boom, on board a brig in the London Docks, the tackle gave way, and the pivot passed obliquely through his body and penetrated the deck. He was carried to the London Hospital, where it was found that he had sustained various other injuries, but in five months he was enabled to walk from the hospital to the College of Surgeons, and back again. He returned to his duty as a seaman, and twice, at intervals of about a year, revisited the College in a robust state of health. The try-sail mast was 39 feet long, and about 600 pounds in weight. — Portions of a skeleton of a rhinoceros, discovered in a limestone cavern at Oreston, near Plymouth, during the formation of the Plymouth breakwater. —Embalmed body of the first wife of the late Martin Van Butchell, prepared at his request in January, 1775, by Dr. William Hunter and Mr. Cruikshank. The method pursued in its preparation was, principally, that of injecting the vascular system with oil of turpentine and camphorated spirit of wine, and the introduction of powdered nitre and oamphor into the cavity of the abdomen, &c.
172 SOANE MUSEUM.
Works of Art. — Portrait of Jolm Hunter, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; the well-known picture so finely engraved by Sharp : it has sadly faded. Posthumous bust of John Hunter, by Flaxman. Bust of Cline, by Chantrey (fine).
SOANE MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields, north side; formed and founded in his own house by Sir John Soane, son of a bricklayer at Reading, and architect of the Bank of England (d. 1837).
The Soane Museum is open to general visitors on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays during the months of April, May, and June, in each year, and likewise on Tues- days, from the first in February to the last in August, for the accommodation of foreigners ; persons making but a short stay in London ; artists ; and those who, from particular circumstances, may be prevented from visiting the Museum in the months first specified, and to whom it may be con- sidered proper that such favour should be conceded. Foreigners are admitted when the Museum is open on pro- ducing a card, to be obtained at the several embassies.
Persons desirous of obtaining Admission to the Museum can apply either to a Trustee, by letter to the Curator, or personally at the Museum a day or two before they desire to visit it ; in the latter case, the applicant is expected to leave a card, containing the name and address of the party desiring admission, and the number of persons proposed to be introduced, or the same can be entered in a book kept for the purpose in the Hall, when, unless there appears to the Curator any satisfactory reason to the contrary, a Card of Admission for the nest open day is forwarded by post to the given address.
Access to the Books, Drawings, MSS., or permission to copy Pictures or other Works of Art, is to be obtained by special application to the Trustees or the Curator.
The house was built in 1812, and the collection is dis- tributed over 21 rooms. There is much that is valuable, and a good deal not worth much. Every corner and passage is turned to account. On the north and west sides of the Picture-room are Cabinets, and on the south arc Moveable Shutters, with sufficient space between for pictures. By this arrangement, the small space of 13 feet 8 inches in length, 12 feet 4 inches in breadth, and 19 feet 6 inches high, is rendered capable of containing as many pictures as a gallery of the same height, 45 feet long and 20 feet broad. Observe. — The Egyptian Sarcophagus, discovered by Belzoni, Oct. 19 th, 181 1>, in a tomb in the valley of Beban el Malook, near
SOANE MUSEUM. 173
Gouruou. It is formed of one single piece of alabaster, or arragonite, measuring 9 feet 4 inches in length by 3 feet 8 inches in width, and 2 feet 8 inches in depth, and covered internally and externally with elaborate hieroglyphics. When a lamp is placed within it, the light shines through, though it is 1\ inches in thickness. On the interior of the bottom is a full-length figure, representing the Egyptian Isis, the guardian of the dead. It was pvirchased by Soane, from Mr. Salt, in 1824, for 2000Z. The raised lid or cover, broken into nineteen fragments, lies beneath it. Sir Gardner Wilkinson considers that it is a cenotaph rather than a sarcophagus, and the name inscribed to be that of Osirei, father of Ramases the Great. — Sixteen original sketches and models, by Flaxman, including one of the few casts in plaster of the Shield of Achilles. — Six original sketches and models by T. Banks, R.A., including the Boothby Monument, one of his finest works. — A large collection of ancient gems, entaglios, &c, under glass, and in a very good light. Set of the Napoleon medals, selected by the Baron Denon for the Empress Josephine, and once in her possession. — Sir Chris- topher Wren's watch. — Carved and gilt ivory table and four ivory chairs, formerly in Tippoo Saib's palace at Seringapatam. — Richly mounted pistol, said to have been taken by Peter the Great from the Bey, Commander of the Turkish army at Azof, 1696, and presented by the Emperor Alexander to Napoleon, at the Treaty of Tilsit in 1807 : Napoleon took it to St. Helena, from whence it was brought by a French officer, to whom he had presented it. — The original copy of the Gerusalemme Liberata, in the handwriting of Tasso. — First four folio editions of Shakspeare (J. P. Kemble's copies). — A folio of designs for Elizabethan and James I. houses by John Thorpe, an architect of those reigns. — Faunt- leroy's Illustrated copy of Pennant's London ; purchased by Soane for 650 guineas. — Commentary on St. Paul's Epistles, illuminated by Giulio Clovio for Cardinal Grimani. — Three Canalctti's — one A View on the Grand Canal of Venice, extremely fine. — The Snake in the Grass, or Love unloosing the Zone of Beauty, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; purchased at the sale of the Marchioness of Thomond's pictures, for 5001. — The Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, a series of 8 pictures ; purchased by Soane in 1802 for 598/. — 1. The Rake comes to his Fortune ; 2. The Rake as a Fine Gentleman ; 3. The Rake in a Bagnio ; 4. The Rake Arrested ; 5. The Rake's Marriage : 6. The Rake at the Gaming Table ; 7. The Rake in Prison ; 8. The Rake in Bedlam. — The Election, by Hogarth, a series of four pictures ; purchased by Soane, at Mrs.
174 MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY.
Garrick's sale in 1823, for 1732?. 105.— Van Tromp's Barge entering the Texel, by J". M. W. Turner, R.A. — Portrait of Napoleon in 1797, by Francesco Goma. — Miniature of Napoleon, painted at Elba in 1814, by Isabcy. — In the Dining-room is a portrait of Soane, by Sir T. Lawrence ; and in the Gallery under the dome, a bust of him by Sir F. Chant rcy.
UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, United Service Insti- tution, Whitehall Yard. Founded 1830, as a central repository for objects of professional arts, science, natural history, books and documents relating to those objects, and for the delivery of lectures on appropriate subjects. Hours of Admission for Visitors. — Summer months, April to Sep- tember, from 11 to 5; winter months, from 11 to 4. Mode of Admission. — Member's order, easily procurable. The members are above 4000 in number. Entrance-fee, 11. ; annual subscription, 105. ; life subscription, 6/. The Museum of the Institution contains much that will repay a visit. Observe. — Basket-hilted cut-and-thrust sword, used by Oliver Cromwell at the siege of Drogheda (1649), — the blade bears the marks of two musket-balls ; sword worn by General Wolfe when he fell at Quebec (1659) ; sash used in carrying Sir John Moore from the field, and lowering him into his grave on the ramparts at Corunna ; part of the deck of the Victory on which Nelson fell ; rudder of the Royal George sunk at Spithead ; skeleton of Marengo, the barb-horse which Napoleon rode at Waterloo ; Captain Siborne's elaborate and faithful model of the field and battle of Waterloo.
MUSEUM op PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, No. 28, to 32, Jermyn Street, established 1835, in consequence of a repre- sentation to the Government by Sir Henry de la Beche, C.B. (Honorary Director), that the geological survey, then under the Ordnance, and in progress in Cornwall, possessed great opportunities of illustrating the application of geology to the useful purposes of life. The collections were at first placed in Craig's-court, Charing-cross, but they augmented so rapidly, chiefly from donations, that a larger building became necessary for them, and the present handsome and well- contrived Museum (Mr. Pcnncthorne, architect,) was opened in 1851. The best use has been made of the space, and a building better fitted for its purposes could not have been devised. It cost 30,000/. The Museum is a School of Minos, similar, as far as circumstances permit, to the Ecole de3 Mines and other institutions of the like kind on the Con- tinent. Already a very valuable collection of mining records
OPERAS AND THEATRES. 175
has been formed. The collections, gratuitously open to public inspection, are large and rapidly increasing, chiefly, as at first, from donations. They comprise illustrations of the geology of the United Kingdom and its colonies, and of the application of geology to the useful purposes of life; nu- merous models of mining works, mining machinery, metal- lurgical processes, and other operations, with needful maps, sections, and drawings, aiding a proper and comprehensive view of the general subject.
The MISSIONARIES' MUSEUM, Bloomfield Street, Moorfields, comprises a collection of objects of Natural History, and the original idols of the natives of the South Seas, prior to the introduction of Christianity : also other curiosities from the various regions to which the influence of the Missionary Society extends. The Museum is open for public inspection free, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur- days, from 10 to 4, from March 25th to September 29th ; the rest of the year from 10 to 3.
THEATRES AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.
HER MAJESTY'S THEATRE, or the Opera House, in the Haymarket. This, the largest theatre in Europe, except that of La Scala at Milan, and the second theatre on the same site, was built (1790) from the designs of Michael Novosielski, and altered and enlarged by Nash and Repton in 1816-18. The -first theatre on the site was built and established (1705) by Sir John Vanbrugh, and burnt down in 1789. Many of the double boxes on the grand tier have sold for as much as 7000£. and 8000Z. ; a box on the pit tier has sold for 4000Z. The leading attractions of this house are (1851) the Countess Rossi (Sontag) Mademoiselle Duprez, Carlotta Grisi, &c. The leader of the band is Mr. Balfe. Boxes let at prices averaging 21s. a seat, but on special occa- sions prices are raised. Most of the boxes hold 1 persons, some on the lower tiers contain 8 or even 10 persons ; Stalls at 15s. to 25s./ Pit at 8s. Those who resort to the pit must go early, and prepare for a squeeze. It was here that Jenny Lind sang. The Crush Room at the Opera, so called from its crowded character, abuts from the avenue leading to the pit.
17(J THE OPERA.
The ROYAL ITALIAN OPERA, at Coyent Garden Theatre, on the west side of Bow-street, Coveut-garden, is the second theatre on the same spot. The first stone of the present edifice was laid (1808) by the Prince of Wales, and the theatre opened (1809) at "new prices:" hence the 0. P. (Old Prices) Row. The architect was Sir Robert Srnirke, R.A., and the statues of Tragedy and Comedy, and the two bas-reliefs on the Bow-street front, are by Flaxman. The expenses of Covent-garden Theatre are so very great that it has long been unlet for the purposes of the legitimate drama. M. Jullien held his Promenade Concerts in it for some time, and in 1843-45, it was leased by the members of the Anti-Corn-Law League. Great altera- tions were made in the spring of 1847, under the direction of Mr. Albano, and on Tuesday, April 6th, 1847, it was pub- licly opened as an Italian Opera, but with such an extrava- gance of expenditure, that in 1S48 there was a loss of 34,756?., and in 1849 of 25,455?. In one year (1S4S), the Vocal Department cost 33,349?. * the Ballet, *8105?. ; and the Orchestra, 10,048?. Some further notion of the cost of the Italian Opera in this country may be obtained from Mr. Delafield's expenses : — Mdlle. Alboni received 4000?. ; the artists' engagements for the season amounted to 26,000?. ; the rent, 6000?. ; band, 7000?. ; weekly expenses, gas, chorusses, &c, 13,800?. ; incidental expenses, 3000? ; being an expendi- ture of 55,800?. for 66 nights, or 845?. per night. Madame Sontag is stated to have entered into an engagement with Mr. Lumley for a period of eight months, at the round sum of 12,500?. The chief artistes at this house are (1851) Madame Grisi, Madame Viardot, Ronconi, &c. The lessee is Frederick Gye, Esq. ; and the leader of the band, M. Costa.
DRURY LANE THEATRE, is the oldest in London. The present edifice, the fourth on the same site, was erected and opened 1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron. Mr. B. Wyatt, son of James Wyatt, was the architect. The portico towards Brydges-street was added during the lesseeship of Elliston (1819-26), and the colonnade in Little Russell-street a few years after. Since the close of Mr. Macready's season, June 14th, 1843, the (jlories of old Drury may be said to have alto- gether departed. Mr. Anderson is at present the lessee, and is making a struggle to fill his house with English Operas, and other ingenious attractions. Within the vestibule is a marble statue of Edmund Kean as Hamlet, by Carew. It is like — but the attraction of Kean in Hamlet was the witchery of his voice.
HAYMARKET THEATRE. 177
The HAYMARKET THEATRE (over against the Opera House in the Haymarket) was built by Nash, and publicly opened July 4th, 1821. It stands on a piece of ground immediately adjoining a former theatre of the same name, and is still distinguished in the play-bills as the " Little Theatre." The lessee is Mr. Benjamin Webster, who has done, and is still doing, more towards upholding the English Drama than any other person (Mr. Phelps not excepted) now connected with the stage. Prices of admission : — Stalls, Dress Circle and Boxes, 5s. ; Pit, 3s. The half-price at this theatre commences at 9.
The ADELPHI THEATRE, over against Adam Street, in the Strand, was built (1806) on speculation by Mr. John Scott, a colour-maker. The entertainments consisted of a mechanical and optical exhibition, with songs, recitations, and imitations ; and the talents of Miss Scott, the daughter of the proprietor, gave a profitable turn to the undertaking. The old front towards the Strand was a mere house-front : the present gin-palace facade was built in 1841. When '•' Tom and Jerry," by Pierce Egan, appeared for the first time (Nov. 26th, 1821), Wrench as " Tom," and Reeve as "Jerry," the little Adelphi, as it was then called, became a favourite with the public. Its fortunes varied under different managements. Terry and Yates became (1825) the joint lessees and managers. Terry was backed by Sir Walter Scott and his friend Ballantyne, the printer, but Scott, in the sequel, had to pay for both Ballantyne and himself. Charles Mathews, in conjunction with Yates, leased the theatre, and gave here (1828-31) his series of inimitable "At Homes.' Here John Reeve drew large houses, and obtained his reputa- tion ; and here Wright and Paul Bedford maintain the former character of the establishment. Prices of admission : — Boxes, ; Pit,
The ROYAL LYCEUM THEATRE, or English Opera House, is in the Strand, at the corner of Upper Wellington- street ; it was built, in 1834, by Mr. S. Beazley. The interior decorations were made in Madame Vestris's time (1847), and are very beautiful. The theatre derives its name from an academy or exhibition room, built in 1765, for the Society of Arts, by Mr. James Payne, the architect. It was first converted into a theatre in 1790, and into an English Opera House by Mr. Arnold in 1809. The preceding theatre (also the work of Mr. Beazley) was destroyed by fire, Feb. 16th, 1830. This theatre is under the management of
N
178 ASTLEY S.
Madame Vestris and Mr. Charles Mathews, and during the season never fails to produce attractive pieces. Prices of admission : — Dress Circle and Boxes, 5s. ; Upper Boxes, ;
Pit, 2s. There is no half-price.
The ST. JAMES'S THEATRE is a small neat edifice, on the south side of King Street. St. James's, built by Beazley for Braham, the singer. During the summer it is usually appropriated to the performances of a French company of actors, and in the height of the London season is well fre- quented. The prices of admission vary every season.
SADLER'S WELLS THEATRE, long a well-known place of public amusement : first a music-house, and so called from a spring of mineral water, discovered by one Sadler, in 1683, in the garden of a house which he had newly opened as a public music-room, and called by his own name as " Sadler's Music House." The New River flows past the theatre, and on great occasions has been earned under the stage, and the flooring removed, for the exhibition of aquatic performances. Here Grimaldi, the famous clown, achieved his greatest triumphs. This admirable little theatre (for such it now is, under the able management of Mr. Phelps, the actor,) has for some years maintained a well-deserved celebrity for the per- formance of the plays of Shakspeare, Beaumont and Fletcher, Massinger, &c, in a way worthy of a larger theatre, and a richer, but not a more crowded or enthusiastic, audience. Prices of admission : — Boxes, ; Pit, .
ASTLEY'S AMPHITHEATRE, Westminster Bridge Road, a theatre and circus, under the management of Mr. Batty, well conducted and well patronised, and the fourth building of the same nature on the same site. The first amphitheatre on this spot was a mere temporary erection of deal boards, built (1774) by Philip Astley, a light-horseman in the 15th or General Elliot's regiment. It stood on what was then an open piece of ground in St. George's Fields, through which the New Cut ran, and to which a halfpenny hatch led. The price of admission to the space without the railing of the ride was 6rf., and Astley himself, said to have been the handsomest man in England, was the chief performer, assisted by a drum, two fifes, and a clown of the name of Porter. At first it was an open area. In 1780, it was con- verted into a covered amphitheatre, and divided into pit, boxes, and gallery. In 1786, it was newly fitted up, and called "The Royal Grove," and in 1702, "The Royal Saloon,
THE SURREY. 179
or Astley's Amphitheatre." The entertainment, at first, was only a day exhibition of horsemanship. Transparent fire- works, slack-rope vaulting, Egyptian Pyramids, tricks on chairs, tumbling, &c, were subsequently added, the ride enlarged, and the house opened in the evening. It is now both theatre and amphitheatre. Astley's amphitheatre has been thrice destroyed by fire — in 1794, in 1803, and in 1841.
" Base Buonaparte, fill'd with deadly ire, Sets, one by one, our playhouses on fire. Some years ago he pounced with deadly glee on The Opera House, then burnt down the Pantheon ; Thy hatch, O Halfpenny ! pass'd in a trice, Boil'd some black pitch, and burnt down Astley's twice."
Rejected Addresses.
Mr. Ducrow, who had been one of Astley's riders and became manager, died insane soon after the fire in 1841. Old Astley, who was born at Newcastle-under-Line in 1742, died in Paris, Oct. 20th, 1814. For the equestrian performances in the circus (the leading attraction) you need not go before 9 at night.
The VICTORIA THEATRE is in Waterloo Bridge Road, Lambeth. It was originally The Coburg, and called The Victoria for the first time soon after the accession of William IV., when her present Majesty was only heir pre- sumptive to the crown. The gallery at the " Vic " (for such is its brief cognomen about Lambeth) is one of the largest in London. It will hold from 1500 to 2000 people, and runs back to so great a distance, that the end of it is lost in shadow, excepting where the little gas-jets, against the wall, light up the two or three faces around them. When the gallery is well packed, it is usual to see piles of boys on each others' shoulders at the back, while on the partition-boards, dividing off the slips, lads will pitch themselves despite the spikes.
The SURREY or CIRCUS THEATRE, in Blackfriars Road, was built (1805-6) on the site of a former edifice destroyed by fire in 1805. Elliston leased it for a time ; and, subsequently, the late Mr. Davidge acquired a handsome fortune by his management. John Palmer, the actor (d. 1798), played here while a prisoner within the Rules of the King's Bench. The large sums he received, and the way in which he squandered his money, is said to have suggested the clause in the then Debtors' Act, which made all public- houses and place of amusement out of the Rules. This house is chiefly supported by the inhabitants of Southwark and of Lambeth.
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180 ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.
The PRINCESS'S THEATRE is in Oxford Street, nearly opposite the Pantheon. It was built and is the
best theatre in London for the purposes of a manager and the interests of the public. The present lessees are Mr. Charles Kean and Mr. Robert Keeley.
The SOHO THEATRE (late Miss Kelly's) is in Dean Street, Soho, and is let to private parties for amateur theatricals. The house will hold 700 people.
EXETER HALL, in the Strand. A large proprietary building on the N. side of the Strand, built (1831) from the designs of J. P. Deering, but altered in the ceiling and lengthened about 40 feet, in 1850, by Mr. S. W. Dawkes. The Hall is 131 feet long, 76 feet wide (i.e. 8 feet wider than "Westminster Hall), and 45 feet high; and will contain, in comfort, more than 3000 persons. It is let for the annual "■May Meetings "of the several religious societies, and for the concerts of the Sacred Harmonic Society, in which the un- rivalled music of Handel is at times performed, with a chorus of 700 voices accompanying it. Tickets may be had at the principal music-sellers, and at offices adjoining the Hall.
ST. MARTIN'S HALL, Long Acre. A place for monthly concerts, &c. Erected in 1850 for Mr. John Hullah.
ALMACK'S is a suite of Assembly-rooms in King Street, St. James's, built (1765) by Robert Mylne, architect, and called Almack's after the original proprietor, and occasionally " "Willis's Rooms," after the present proprietor. The balls called " Almack's," for which these rooms are famous, are managed by a Committee of Ladies of high rank, and the only mode of admission is by vouchers or personal intro- duction. Almack kept the Thatched House Tavern, St. James's-street, on the site of which stands the Conservative Club. The rooms are let for concerts, general meetings, and public balls.
The ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, in Regent's Park, be- long to the Zoological Society of London, a Society instituted in 3 826, for the advancement of Zoology, and the introduction and exhibition of the Animal Kingdom alive or properly preserved. The principal founders wore Sir Humphry Davy, and Sir Stamford Raffles. Visitors are admitted to theGardens of the Society without orders on Monday in every week, at 6d. each ; on the following days at 1*. each : children ;it '}(/.
ROYAL SOCIETY. 181
The Gardens are open from 9 in the morning till sunset. The rooms of the Society are at No. 11, Hanover-square. A mem- ber's fee on admission is 51., and his annual subscription 3Z. These Gardens are among the best of our London sights, and should be seen by every stranger in London. The giraffes and rattle-snakes are very rare and fine, but the attractions of the Gardens for the last year and a half have been the Hippo- potamus, presented by the Viceroy of Egypt, and the first ever brought to this country, the Elephant Calf, and the Uran Utan from Singapore. The collection of living snakes is the largest ever formed in Europe. The recent attraction is a collection of stuffed humming birds, the property of Mr. Gould, author of the " Birds of Europe," " Birds of Aus- tralia," &c, allowed by ornithologists to be the finest in the world. The collection consists of about 2000 specimens of 300 species, arranged in upwards of 40 glass-cases, each of which contains a genus, and every pane or compartment a species in different states of age and colour. The band of the First Life Guards plays in the gardens every Saturday at 4. The pelicans are fed at half-past 2 ; the otters at 3 ; the eagles at half-past 3 (Wednesdays excepted) ; and the lions and tigers at 4.
The SURREY ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, two miles from Waterloo Bridge, contain the menagerie of Mr. Cross, by whom the grounds were laid out (1831-2), after the demo- lition of Exeter 'Change and the Mews at Charing Cross. The collection in some respects is superior to the Zoological Gardens in the Regent's Park. The fetes and exhibitions in the summer months in these gardens are among the attrac- tions of the Surrey side of London. The grounds are about 15 acres in extent, with a sheet of water of nearly 3 acres. Admission Is.
LEARNED INSTITUTIONS.
The ROYAL SOCIETY, in Somerset House, (on your left as you enter the vestibule,) was incorporated by royal charter in 1663, King Charles II. and the Duke of York (James II.) entering their names as members of the Society. Like the Society of Antiquaries, and perhaps all other institutions, this celebrated Society (boasting of the names of Newton, Wren, Halley, Herschell, Davy, and Watt, among its members)
182 ROYAL SOCIETY.
originated in a small attendance of men engaged in the same pursuits, and dates its beginning from certain weekly meet- ings held in London, as early as the year 1645. The merit of suggesting such meetings is assigned by Wallis (himself a foundation member) to Theodore Haak, a German of the Palatinate, then resident in London. The Civil War inter- rupted their pursuits for a time ; but with the Restoration of the King, a fresh accession of strength was obtained, new members enlisted, and the charter of incorporation granted. The Society consists at present of about 766 "Fellows," and the letters F.R.S. are generally appended to the name of a member. The present entrance money is 101., and the annual subscription Al. ; members are elected by ballot, upon the nomination of 6 or more fellows. The patron saint of the Society is St. Andrew, and the anniversary meeting is held every 30th of November, being St. Andrew's Day. The pre- sent President is the Earl of Rosse, distinguished for the discoveries he is making with his great telescope. The Society possesses some interesting portraits. Observe. — Three portraits of Sir Isaac Newton — one by O. Jew as, pre- sented by Newton himself, and properly suspended over the President's chair — a second in the Library, by D. C. Mar- chand — and a third in the Assistant Secretary's Office, by Vanderbank; two portraits of Halley, by Thomas Murray and Dahl; two of Hobbes — one taken in 1663 by, says Aubrey, " a good hand " — and the other by Gaspars, presented by Aubrey; Sir Christopher Wren, by Kneller; Wallis, by Soest ; Flamstead, by Gibson; Robert Boyle, by F. Kerseboom, (Evelyn says it is like) ; Pepys, by Kneller, presented by Pepys; Lord Somers, by Kneller; Sir R. Southwell, by Kneller; Sir H. Spelman, the antiquary, by Mytens (how it came here I know not) ; Sir Hans Sloane, by Kneller; Dr. Birch, by Wills, the original of the mezzotint done by Faber in 1741, be- queathed by Birch ; Martin Folkes, by Hogarth; Dr. Wollas- ton, by Jackson; Sir Humphry Davy, by Sir. T. Lawrence. Observe also. — The mace of silver gilt (similar to the maces of the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker, and President of the College of Physicians) presented to the Society by Charles IT. in 1662. The belief so long entertained, that it was the mace or "bauble," as Cromwell called it, of the Long Parlia- ment, has been completely refuted by Mr. Weld producing the original warrant of the year 1662, for the special making of this very mace. — A solar dial, made by Sir Isaac Newton when a boy; a reflecting telescope, made in 1671, by Newton's own hands; MS. of the Principia, in Newton's own hand- writing; lock of Newton's hair, silver white; MS. of the
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Parentalia, by young Wren; Charter Book of the Society, bound in crimson velvet, containing the signatures of the Founder and Fellows ; a Rumford fire-place, one of the first set up ; original model of Sir Humphry Davy's Safety Lamp, made by his own hands ; marble bust of Mrs. Somerville, by Chantrey. The Society possesses a Donation Fund, estab- lished to aid men of science in their researches, and distributes four medals : a Rumford gold medal, two Royal medals, and a Copley gold medal, called by Davy "the ancient olive crown of the Royal Society."
ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Trafalgar Square, located E. wing of the National Gallery, constituted 1768. Its principal objects are — 1. The establishment of a well- regulated " School, or Academy of Design," for the use of students in the arts ; and, 2. An " annual exhibition," open to all artists of distinguished merit, where they might offer their performances to public inspection, and acquire that degree of reputation and encouragement which they should be deemed to deserve. It is called by its members "a private society, supporting a school that is open to the public." The members are under the superintendence and control of the Queen only, who confirms all appointments ; and the society itself consists of 40 Royal Academicians ; (including a President), 20 Associates, and 6 Associate Engravers. The Royal Academy derives the whole of its funds from the produce of its annual exhibition, to which the price of admission is Is., and the catalogue Is. The average annual receipts are about 6000Z. The annual exhibition opens the first Monday in May, and works intended for exhibition must be sent in at least three weeks or a month before — but of this due notice is given in all the public papers. No works which have been already exhibited ; no copies of any kind (excepting paintings on enamel) ; no mere transcripts of the objects of natural history ; no vignette portraits, nor any drawings without backgrounds (excepting architectural de- signs), can be received. No artist is allowed to exhibit more than 8 different works. Honorary exhibitors (or unprofes- sional artists) are limited to one. All works sent for exhibi- tion are submitted to the approval or rejection of the council, whose decision is final, and may be ascertained by application at the Academy in the week after they have been left there.
Mode of obtaining A dmission. — Any person desiring to be- come a student of the Royal Academy, presents a drawing or model of his own performance to the keeper, which, if con- sidered by him a proof of sufficient ability, is laid before the
184 ROYAL ACADEMY.
Council, together with a testimony of his moral character, from an Academician, or other known person of respectability. If these are approved by the Council, the candidate is per- mitted to make a drawing or model from one of the antique figures in the Academy, and the space of three months from the time of receiving such permission is allowed for that purpose; the time of his attendance is from 10 o'clock in the morning until 3 in the afternoon. This drawing or model, when finished, is laid before the Council, accompanied with outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not less than two feet high, with lists and references, on each drawing, of the several muscles, tendons, and bones contained therein, together with the drawing or model originally presented for his admission as a probationer : if approved, the candidate is accepted as a student of the Royal Academy, and receives in form the ticket of his admission from the hand of the keeper in the Antique School. If the specimen presented be rejected by the Council, he is not allowed to continue drawing in the Academy. Tho rule for Architectural Students is of a like character.
The first president was Sir Joshua Reynolds — the present president is Sir Charles Lock Eastlake. The 10th of February is the day on which the vacancies in the list of Royal Academicians are filled up ; November the month for electing Associates, and the 10th of December the day for the annual distribution of prizes. The Royal Academy possesses a fine library of books of prints, and a large collection of casts from the antique, and several interesting pictures by old masters. The library is open to the students. Each mem- ber on his election presents a picture, or a work of art, of his own design and execution, to the collection of the Academy. The series thus obtained is interesting in the history of British art. Observe among the Diploma, pictures. — Portrait of Sir William Chambers, the architect, by Sir Joshua Reynolds (very fine) ; Portrait of Reynolds in his Doctor's Robes, by himself (very fine); Boys digging for a rat, by Sir David Wilkie. Works of Art in the possession of the Academy. — 1. Cartoon of the Holy Family, in black chalk, by L. Da Vinci; executed with extreme care, and engraved by Anker Smith (very fine) ; the Holy Virgin is repre- sented on the lap of St. Anna, her mother ; she bends down tenderly to the infant Christ, who plays with a iamb. 2. Bas-relief, in marble, of the Holy Family, by Mi chad Angelo; presented by Sir George Beaumont. St. John is presenting a dove to the child Jesus, who shrinks from it and shelters himself in the arms of his mother, who
COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS. 185
.seems gently reproving St. John for his hastiness, and putting him back with her hand. The child is finished and the mother in great part : the St. John is only sketched, but in a most masterly style. 3. Copy, in oil, of Da Vmci's Last Supper (size of the original), by Marco dOggione, a scholar of Leonardo, and is very valuable, perhaps representing more exactly Leonardo's grand design than the original itself in its present mutilated state at Milan. This was formerly in the Certosa at Pavia. 4. Marble bust of Wilton, the sculptor, by Roubiliac. The mode of obtain- ing admission to view these pictures, &c, is by a written application to the keeper, addressed " Charles Landseer, Esq., R.A., Royal Academy of Arts, Trafalgar Square."
ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC, 4, Texterdex Street, Hanover Square. Founded (1822) by the present Earl of "Westmoreland, who confided its organisation and general direction to Bochsa, the composer and harpist, at that time director to the Italian Opera in London. This is an academy, with in-door and out-door students, the in-door paying 50 guineas a-year and 10 guineas entrance fee, and the out-door 30 guineas a-year and 5 guineas entrance fee. Some previous knowledge is required, and the students must provide them- selves with the instruments they propose or are appointed to learn. There is a large Musical Library. Four scholarships, called King's Scholarships, have been founded by the Academy, two of which, one male and one female, are con- tended for annually at Christmas.
ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, in Pall Mall East, corner of Trafalgar Square, was built by Sir Robert Smirke, for 30,000?., and opened (1825) with a Latin oration by Sir Henry Halford. The College was founded by Linacre, physician to Henry VIII. The members, at its first institu- tion, met in the founder's house in Knightrider-street on the site of No. 5, still (by Linacre's bequest) in the possession of the College. From the founder's house they moved to Amen-corner (where Harvey read his lectures on the discovery of the circulation of the blood); from thence (1674), after the Great Fire, to Warwick-lane (where Wren built them a college which still remains), and from Warwick-lane and the stalls about Newgate Market to their present College in Pall-mall East. Observe. — In the gallery above the library seven preparations by Harvey, discoverer of the circulation of the blood, and a very large number by Dr. Matthew Baillie. — The engraved portrait of Harvey, by
186 heralds' college.
Jansen, three-quarter, seated ; head of Sir Thomas Browne, author of Religio Medici ; three-quarter of Sir Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I. ; three-quarter of Sir Edmund King, the physician who bled Bang Charles II. in a fit, on his own responsibility ; head of Dr. Sydenham, by Mary Beale ; three-quarter of Dr. Radcliffe, by Kneller; Sir Hans Sloane, by Richardson; Sir Samuel Garth, by Kneller; Dr. Freind, three-quarter, seated ; Dr. Mead, three-quarter, seated ; Dr. Warren, by Gainsborough ; William Hunter, three-quarter, seated ; Dr. Heberden. Busts. — George IV., by Chantrcy (one of his finest) ; Dr. Mead, by Rotibiliac ; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton (from the picture) ; Harvey, by Scheemakers (from the picture) ; Dr. Baillie, by Chantrcy (from a model by Nollekens) ; Dr. Babington, by Bchnes. — Dr. Radcliffe's gold-headed cane, successively carried by Drs. Radcliffe, Mead, Askew, Pitcairn, and Matthew Baillie (presented to the College by Mrs. Baillie); and a clever little picture, by Z off any, of Hunter delivering a lecture on anatomy before the members of the Royal Academy — all portraits. Mode of Admission. — Order from a fellow. Almost every physician of eminence in London is a fellow.
ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln's Inn Fields. See Public Exhibitions, p. 170.
The HERALDS' COLLEGE, or College of Arms, is in Doctors' Commons. The apartments of Garter King at Arms, at the N.E. corner, were built at the expense of Sir William Dugdale, Garter in the reign of Charles II. Here is the Earl Marshal's Office, once an important court, but now of little con- sequence. It was sometime called the Court of Honour, and took cognizance of words supposed to reflect upon the nobility. The appointment of Heralds is in the gift of the Duke of Norfolk, as hereditary Earl Marshal. The College consists of 3 Kings — Garter, Clarencieux, and Norroy ; of 6 Heralds — Lancaster, Somerset, Richmond, Windsor, York, and Chester ; and of 4 Pursuivants — Rouge Croix, Blue Mantle, Portcullis, and Rouge Dragon. The several appointments are in the gift of the Duke of Norfolk, as hereditary Earl Marshal. Celebrated Officers of the College. — William Camden, Claren- cieux; Sir William Dugdale, Garter ; Elias Ashmole, founder of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, Windsor Jh raid; Francis Sandford, author of the Genealogical History of England, Lancaster Herald; John Anstis, Garter; Sir John Vanbrugb, the poet, Clarencieux ; Francis Grose, author of Grose's Antiquities, Richmond Herald ; William Oldys, Norroy
SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 187
King at Arms; Lodge ("Lodge's Portraits"), Clarencieux. Two escutcheons, oue bearing the arms (and legs) of the Isle of Man, and the other the eagle's claw, ensigns of the house of Stanley, still to be seen on the S. side of the quadrangle, denote the site of old Derby House, in which the Heralds were located before the Great Fire of London. Observe. — Sword, dagger, and turquoise ring, belonging to James IV. of Scotland, who fell at Flodden-field, presented to the college by the Duke of Norfolk, temp. Charles II.
" They produce a better evidence of James's death than the iron-belt — the monarch's sword and dagger, which are still preserved in the Heralds' College in London." — Sir Walter Scott {Note to Marmiori).
Portrait of Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury (the great warrior), from his tomb in old St. Paul's. Roll of the Tournament holden at Westminster, in honour of Queen Katherine, upon the birth of Prince Henry (1510) : a most curious roll, engraved in the Monumenta Vetusta, Vol. I. — The Rous or Warwick roll : a series of figures of all the Earls of Warwick, from the Conquest to the reign of Richard III., executed by Rous, the antiquary of Warwick, at the close of the fifteenth century. — Pedigree of the Saxon Kings, from Adam, illus- trated with many beautiful drawings in pen-and-ink (temp. Henry VIII.) of the Creation, Adam and Eve in Paradise, the Building of Babel, Rebuilding of the Temple, &c. — MSS., con- sisting chiefly of Heralds' visitations ; records of grants of arms and royal licenses ; records of modern pedigrees (i. e. since the discontinuance of the visitations in 1687); a most valuable collection of official funeral certificates ; a portion of the Arundel MSS. ; the Shrewsbury or Cecil papers, from which Lodge derived his Illustrations of British History; notes, &c, made by Glover, Vincent, Philipot, and Dugdale ; a volume in the handwriting of the venerable Camden ; the collections of Sir Edward Walker, Secretary at War (temp. Charles I.).
SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES has apartments in Somer- set House, first door on your left as you enter the vestibule. The Society was founded in 1707, by Wanley, Bagford, and a Mr. Talman. George II., in 1751, granted them a charter ; and in 1777, George III. set aside the apartments they still occupy. The terms at present are, 8 guineas admission, and 4 guineas annually. Members are elected by ballot on the recommendation of at least three Fellows. The letters F.S.A. are generally appended to the names of members. Their Transactions, called the Archaeologia, commence in 1770, and contain much minute, but too often irrelevant, information.
188 INSTITUTION OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS.
Days of meeting, every Thursday at 8, from November to June. Anniversary meeting, April 23rd. The Society pos- sesses a Library and Museum. Observe. — Household Book of Jocky of Norfolk. — A large and interesting Collection of Early Proclamations, interspersed with Early Ballads, many unique. — T. Porter's Map of London (temp. Charles I.), once thought to be unique. — A folding Picture on Panel of the Preaching at Old St. Paul's in 1616.— Early Portraits of Edward IV. and Eichard III., engraved for the Third Series of Ellis's Letters. — Three-quarter Portrait of Mary I., with the monogram of Lucas de Heere, and the date 1544. — Portrait of Marquis of Winchester (d. 1571), (curious). — Portrait by Sir Antonio More of John Schoreel, a Flemish painter (More was the scholar of Schoreel). — Portraits of Antiquaries : Burton, the Leicestershire antiquary ; Peter le Neve ; Humphrey Wanley ; Baker, of St. John's College ; William Stukeley ; George Vertue ; Edward, Earl of Oxford, presented by Vertue. — A Bohemian Astronomical Clock of Gilt Brass, made by Jacob Zech in 1525, for Sigismund, King of Poland, and bought at the sale of the effects of James Ferguson, the astronomer. — Spur of Brass Gilt, found on Towton Field, the scene of the conflict between Edward IV. and the Lancastrian Forces. Upon the shanks is engraved the following posy:— "til lOtal amobl* tout lUOU tatV." For admission to the Museum apply by letter to " J. Y. Aker- man, Esq., F.S.A., Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries, Somerset House."
INSTITUTION OF CIVIL ENGINEERS, 25, Great George Street, Westminster. Established 1818 ; incor- porated 1828. The Institution consists of Members resident in London, paying 4 guineas annually, and Members not resident, 3 guineas annually ; of Associates resident in London paying, 3 guineas annually, and Associates not resident, 2\ guineas; of Graduates resident in London paying 2-g guineas annually, and Graduates not resident, 2 guineas ; and of Honorary Members. The ordinary General Meetings are held every Tuesday at 8 p.m., from the second Tuesday in January to the end of June. The first president was Thomas Telford (1820-34) ; the second, James Walker (1835-45) ; the third, Sir John Rennie ; and the present one, Joshua Field, Esq. Observe. — Portrait of Thomas Telford, engineer of the Menai Bridge, and President of the Institution for 14 years.
ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS. 16.
Lower Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor Square. Founded
ROYAL INSTITUTION. 189
1834, for the advancement of architecture, and incorporated 1 S37. There are three classes of Members : — 1. Fellows : archi- tects engaged as principals for at least seven years in the practice of civil architecture. 2. Associates : persons engaged in the study of civil architecture, or in practice less than seven years, and who have attained the age of 21. 3. Honorary Fellows. The Meetings are held every alternate Monday at 8 p.m., from the first Monday in November till the end of June inclusive. Associate's admission fee, 1 guinea ; Fellow's admission fee, 5 guineas. There is a good library of books on architecture.
ROYAL INSTITUTION OF GREAT BRITAIN, a Library, Reading, and Lecture Room, 21, Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. Established 1799, at a meeting held at the house of Sir Joseph Banks, for diffusing the knowledge and facilitating the general introduction of useful mechanical inventions and improvements, &c. Count Rumford was its earliest promoter. The front — a row of Corinthian columns half-engaged — was designed by Mr. Vulliamy, architect, from the Custom House at Rome ; and what before was little better than a perforated brick-wall, was thus converted into an ornamental facade. Here is an excellent library of general reference, and a good reading room, with weekly courses of lectures, throughout the season, on Chemical Philosophy, Physiology, Chemical Science, &c. The principal lecturers are Professors Faraday and Brande. Members (candidates to be proposed by four members) are elected by ballot, and a majority of two-thirds is necessary for election. The admission fee is 5 guineas, and the annual subscription 5 guineas. Sub- scribers to the Theatre Lectures only, or to the Laboratory Lectures only, pay 2 guineas; subscribers to both pay 3 guineas for the season ; subscribers to a single course of the Theatre Lectures pay 1 guinea. A syllabus of each course may be obtained of the Secretary at the Institution. The Friday Evening Meetings, at which some eminent person is invited to deliver a popular lecture on some subject connected with science, art, or literature, are generally well attended. Non-subscribers may be admitted to them by a ticket signed by a member. Mr. Harris's printed catalogue of the Library is methodically digested and very useful. In the Laboratory, Davy made his great discoveries on the metallic bases of the earths, aided by the large galvanic apparatus of the establish- ment.
ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE, 4, St. Martin's Place, Charing Cross. Founded in 1S23, "for the advance-
190 ASIATIC SOCIETY.
ment of literature," and incorporated 1826. George IV. gave 1100 guineas a year to this Society, which has the merit of rescuing the last years of Coleridge's life from complete dependence on a friend, and of placing the learned Dr. Jamieson above the wants and necessities of a man fast sinking to the grave. The annual grant of 1100 guineas was discontinued by William IV., and the Society has since sank into a Transaction Society, with a small but increasing library. The opposition of Sir Walter Scott to the formation of a literary society of this kind was highly injurious to its success. " The immediate and direct favour of the sove- reign," says Scott, "is worth the patronage of ten thousand societies."
GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, Somerset House. Established 1807. The Museum of geological speci- mens, fossils, &c, not only British, but from all quarters of the globe, is extensive, though not perfectly arranged. It may be seen by the introduction of a member. The museum and library are open every day from 11 till 5. The number of fellows is about 875, and the time of meeting half-past 8 o'clock in the evening of alternate AVednesdays, from Novem- ber to June inclusive. The Society has published its Trans- actions, which now adopt the form of a quarterly journal. Entrance money, 6 guineas ; annual subscription, 3 guineas.
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 3, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall, established 1830, for the improvement and diffusion of geographical knowledge. Elections by ballot. Entrance fee, 31. ; annual subscription, 21. There is a small but good geographical library.
ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, 5, New Burlington Street, (founded 1823,) contains an interesting collection of Oriental arms and armour. Observe. — The Malay spears mounted with gold ; the pair of Ceylonese jingals, or grasshoppers, mounted with silver, taken in the Khandyan war of 1815 ; a complete suit of Persian armour, inlaid with gold ; a Bengal sabre, termed a kharg ; Ceylonese hog-spears, and Lahore arrows ; a sculptured column of great beauty, from the gateway of a temple in Mahore ; and statues of Durga, Surga, and Buddha, that deserve attention. The Society usually meets on the first and third Saturdays in every month, from November to June inclusive. Admission fee, 5 guineas : annual subscription, 3 guineas.
UNIVERSITY OF LONDON. 191
A large City like London, the centre as it may be called of human intelligence, contains Institutions for the advance- ment of every species of knowledge. Besides those already mentioned, we must add : — the Horticultural Society, No. 21, Eegent Street ; the Linncean Society, 32, Soho Square ; Royal Astronomical Society in Somerset House ; and the Statistical Society, No. 12, St. James's Square. There are also Societies for printing books connected with particular subjects, such as the Camden, Shakespeare, Percy, Hakluyt, &c. At No. 12, St. James's Square, is the admirably managed London Library, a public subscription circulating library, possessing 60,000 volumes — entrance fee, 61. ; annual subscription, 21.
COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS.
UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, Somerset House, on your right as you enter the vestibule, is a government institution, or Board of Examiners, established 1837, for conferring de- grees, after careful examinations, on the graduates of Univer- sity College, London ; King's College, London ; Stepney College, Highbury College, Homerton College, &c. ; in other words, " for the advancement of religion and morality, and the promotion of useful knowledge without distinction of rank, sect, or party." There are several scholarships attached, each with 501. a year. The salary of the Registrar and Trea- surer is 500?. a year. The institute has nothing to do with the business of education, being constituted for the sole purpose of ascertaining the proficiency of candidates for academical distinctions. The examinations are half-yearly.
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, London, on the east side of Upper Gower Street. A proprietary institution, " for the general advancement of literature and science, by affording to young men adequate opportunities for obtaining literary and scientific education at a moderate expense ; " founded (1828) by the exertions of Lord Brougham, Thomas Campbell, the poet, and others, and built from the designs of W. Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Gallery and of St. George's Hospital at Hyde-Park-corner. Graduates of the University of London from University College are entitled Doctors of Laws, Masters of Arts, Bachelors of Law, Bachelors of Medicine, and Bachelors of Art. Everything is taught in the College but divinity. The school of medicine is de- servedly distinguished. The Junior School, under the
192 ktxg's college.
government of the Council of the College, is entered by a separate entrance in Upper Gower-street. The school session is divided into three terms : viz., from the 26th of September to Christmas, from Christmas to Easter, from Easter to the 4th of August. The vacations are three weeks at Christmas, ten days at Easter, and seven weeks in the summer. The hours of attendance are from a quarter past 9 to three- quarters past 3 ; in which time one horn- and a quarter is allowed for recreation. The yearly payment for each pupil is l&l., of which 61. are paid in advance in each term, on the first day after the vacation on which the pupil begins to attend the school. The payments are made at the office of the College. A fixed charge of 3s. 6d. a term is made for stationery. Books and drawing materials are provided for the pupils as required, and a charge is made accordingly. Boys are admitted to the school at any age under fifteen, if they are competent to enter the lowest class. When a boy has attained his sixteenth year, he will not be allowed to remain in the school beyond the end of the current session. The subjects taught are reading, writing ; the English, Latin, Greek, French, and German languages ; Ancient and English history ; geography, both physical and political ; arithmetic and book-keeping, the elements of mathematics and of natural philosophy, drawing, dancing, &c. The disci- pline of the school is maintained without corporal punish- ment. The extreme punishment for misconduct is the removal of the pupil from the school. Several of the pro- fessors, and some of the masters of the Junior School, receive students to reside with them ; and in the office of the College there is kept a register of parties unconnected with the College who receive boarders into their families : among these are several medical gentlemen. The Registrar will afford information as to terms, and other particulars.
The Flaxman Museum. — In the hall under the cupola of the College the original models are preserved of the prin- cipal plaster works, statues, bas-reliefs, &c, of John Flaxman, R.A., the greatest of our English sculptors. The Pastoral Apollo, the St. Michael, and some of the bas-reliefs, are amazingly fine. The clever portrait statue in marble of Flax- man, by the late M. L. Watson, and now in the Crystal Palace, has been purchased by public subscription, and will be placed on the stairs as you enter the Flaxman Gallery.
KING'S COLLEGE AND SCHOOL. A proprietary in- stitution, occupying the east wing of Somerset House, which was built up to receive it, having been before left incomplete.
. ST. Paul's school. 193
The College was founded in 1828, upon the following funda- mental principle : — " That every system of general education for the youth of a Christian community ought to comprise instruction in the Christian religion as an indispensable part, without which the acquisition of other branches of knowledge will be conducive neither to the happiness of the individual nor the welfare of the state." The general education of the College is carried on in five departments : — 1. Theological Department ; 2. Department of General Literature and Science ; 3. Department of the Applied Sciences ; 4. Medical Department ; 5. The School. Every person wishing to place a pupil in the school must produce, to the head-master, a cer- tificate of good conduct, signed by his last instructor. The general age for admission is from 9 to 16 years of age. Rooms are provided within the walls of the College for the residence of a limited number of matriculated students. Each proprietor has the privilege of nominating two pupils to the School, or one to the School and one to the College at the same time. The Museum contains the Calculating Machine of Mr. Babbage, deposited by the Commissioners of the Woods and Forests ; and the collection of Mechanical Models and Philosophical Instruments formed by George III., presented by Queen Victoria.
ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL. A celebrated school in St. Paul's Churchyard (on the east side), founded in 1512, for 153 poor men's children, by Dr. John Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, the friend of Erasmus, and son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, and Mayor of London in 1486 and 1495. The boys were to be taught, free of expense, by a master, sur-master, and chaplain, and the oversight of the school was committed by the founder to the Mercers' Company. The number (153) was chosen in allusion to the number of fishes taken by St. Peter. The school was dedicated by Colet to the Child Jesus, but the saint, as Strype remarks, has robbed his master of his title. The lands left by Colet to support his school were estimated, in 1598, at the yearly value of about 120Z. Their present value is upwards of 5000Z. The education is entirely classical, and the presentations to the school are in the gift of the Master of the Mercers' Company for the time being. Scholars are admitted at the age of 15, but at present none are eligible to an exhibition if entered after 12 ; and none are expected to remain in the school after their nineteenth birthday, though no time for superannuation is fixed by the statutes. The head-master's salary is 618?. per annum ; the sur-master's, 307?. ; the under-master's, 2721. ; and the
o
194 WESTMINSTER SCHOOL.
assistant-master's, 2571. Lilly, the grammarian, and friend of Erasmus, was the first master, and the grammar which ho compiled, Lilly's Grammar, is still used in the school. Eminent Scholars. — John Leland, our earliest English anti- quary : John Milton, the great epic poet of our nation ; the great Duke of Marlborough ; Nelson, author of Fasts and Festivals ; Edmund Halley, the astronomer ; Samuel Pepys, the diarist ; John Strype, the ecclesiastical historian. The present school was built in 1823, from a design by Mr. George Smith, and is the third building erected on the same site. Colet's school was destroyed in the Great Fire, " but built lip again," says Strype, "much after the same manner and proportion it was before."
WESTMINSTER SCHOOL, or St. Peter's College, Dean's Yard, Westminster, founded as "a publique schoole for Grammar, Rethoricke, Poetrie, and for the Latin and Greek languages," by Queen Elizabeth, 1560, and attached to the collegiate church of St. Peter at Westminster. The College consists of a dean, 12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40 scholars ; with a master and an usher. This is the founda- tion, but the school consists of a larger number of masters, and of a much larger number of boys. The 40 are called Queen's scholars, and after an examination, which takes place on the first Tuesday after Rogation Sunday, 4 are elected to Trinity College, Cambridge, and 4 to Christ Church, Oxford. A parent wishing to place a boy at this school will get every necessary information from the head master ; boys are not placed on the foundation under 12 or above 18 yean, of age. Eminent Masters. — Camden, the antiquary ; Dr. Busby ; Vin Bourne ; Jordan (Cowley has a copy of verses on his death). Eminent Men educated at. — Poets: Ben Jonsenj George Herbert ; Giles Fletcher ; Jasper Mayne ; William Cartwright ; Cowley; Dryden ; Nat Lee; Rowe ; Prior j Churchill ; Dyer, author of Grongar Hill ; Cowper : Souther. Cowley published a volume of poems while a scholar at Westminster. Other great Men. — Sir Harry Vane, the younger; Hakluyt, the collector of the Voyages which bear his name; Sir Christopher Wren ; Locke; South; Atterburyj Warren Bastings; Gibbon, the historian; Cumberland; the elder Colman; Lord John Russell, The boys on the foundation wore formerly separated from the tows boy* when in school by a bar <>r curtain. The Schoolroom was a dormitory belonging to the Abbey, and retains certain traces of its former ornaments. The College Hall, originally the Abbot's Refectory, was built by Abbot Litlington, In
CHARTER HOUSE. 195
the reign of Edward III., and the old louvre is still used for the escape of the smoke. The Dormitory was built by the Earl of Burlington, in 1722. In conformity with the old custom, the Queen's scholars perform a play of Terence every year at Christmas, with a Latin prologue and epilogue re- lating to current political events, and therefore new on each occasion.
CHARTER HOUSE, (a corruption of Chartreuse,) upper end of Aldersgate Street. "An hospital, chapel, and school-house," instituted, 1611, by Thomas Sutton, of Camps Castle, in the county of Cambridge, and so called from a monastery of Carthusian monks (the prior and convent of the Carthusian order), founded in 1371 on a Pest-house field by Sir Walter Manny, knight, a stranger born, Lord of the town of Manny, in the diocese of Cambray, and knight of the garter in the reign of Edward III. The last prior was exe- cuted at Tyburn, May 4th, 1535 — his head set on London Bridge, and one of his limbs over the gateway of his own convent — the same gateway, it is said, a Perpendicular arch, surmounted by a kind of dripstone and supported by lions, which is still the entrance from Charter-House-square. The priory founded by Sir Walter Manny, and thus sternly dissolved, was sold by Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, to Thomas Sutton for 13,0007., and endowed as a charity by the name of "the Hospital of King James." Sutton died before his work was complete, and was buried in the chapel of the hospital beneath a sumptuous monument, the work of Nicholas Stone and Mr. Jansen of Southwark. This (( triple good," as Lord Bacon calls it — this "masterpiece of Pro- testant English charity," as it is called by Fuller — is under the direction of the Queen, Prince Albert, 15 governors, selected from the great officers of state, and the master of the hospital, whose income is 800Z. a year, besides a capital residence within the walls. The most eminent master of the house was Dr. Thomas Buniet, author of the Theory of the Earth, master between 1685 and 1715 ; and the most eminent school-master, the Rev. Andrew Tooke (Tooke's Pantheon). Eminent Scholars. — Richard Crashaw, the poet, author of Steps to the Temple. — Isaac Barrow, the divine; he was cleleb rated at school for his love of fighting. — Sir William Blackstone, author of the Commentaries. — Joseph Addison. Sir Richard Steele. Addison and Steele were scholars at the same time. — John Wesley, the founder of the West leyans. Wesley imputed his after-health and long life to the strict obedience with which he performed an injunction
o 2
196 Christ's hospital.
of his father's, that he should run round the Charter House playing-green three times every morning. The first Lord Ellenborough (Lord Chief Justice). — Lord Liverpool (the Prime Minister). — Bishop Monk. — W. M. Thackeray. — Sir C. L. Eastlake, R.A. — The two eminent historians of Greece, Bishop Thirlwall and George Grote, Esq., were both together in the same form under Dr. Raine. Poor Brethren. — Elkanah Settle, the rival and antagonist of Dryden ; he died here in 1723-4. — John Bagford, the antiquary (d. 1716); he was originally a shoemaker in Turnstile, afterwards a bookseller, and left behind him a large collection of materials for the history of printing, subsequently bought by the Earl of Oxford, and now a part of the Harleian collection in the British Museum. — Isaac de Groot, by several descents the nephew of Hugo Gx-otius ; he was admitted at the earnest in- tercession of Dr. Johnson. — Alexander Macbean (d. 1781), Johnson's assistant in his Dictionary. Observe. — The ante- chapel, the S. wall of the chapel (repaired in 1842 under the direction of Blore), and the W. wall of the great hall ; parts of old Howard House (for such it was once called); the great staircase ; the governor's room, with its panelled chim- ney-piece, ceiling, and ornamental tapestry ; that part of the great hall with the initials T. N. (Thomas, Duke of Norfolk) ; Sutton's tomb in the chapel. On opening the vault in 1842, the body of the founder was discovered in a coffin of lead, adapted to the shape of the body, like an Egyptian mummy- case. In the Master's lodge are several excellent portraits ; the founder, engraved by Vertue for Bearcroft's book ; Isaac Walton's good old Bishop Morley ; Charles II. ; Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham ; Duke of Monmouth ; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury ; William, Earl of Craven (the Queen of Bohemia's Earl); Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbury; Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham ; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury ; Lord Chancellor Somers ; and one of Kncller's finest works, the portrait of Dr. Thomas Burnet.
CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, Newgate Street, marked by its great hall, visible through a double railing from Newgate-street. This noble charity was founded on the site of the Grey Friars Monastery, by Edward VI., June 26th, 1553, ten days before his death, as an hospital for poor fatherless children and found- lings. It is commonly called "The Blue Coat School," from the dress worn by the boys, which is of the same ago as the foundation of the hospital. The dress is a blue coat or gown, a yellow petticoat ("yellow" as it is called), a red leather girdle round the waist, yellow stockings, a clergyman's band
chrtst's hospital. 197
round the neck, and a flat black cap of woollen yarn, about the size of a saucer. Blue was a colour originally confined to servant-men and bo3Ts, nor, till its recognition as part of the uniform of the British Navy, was blue ever looked upon as a colour to be worn by gentlemen. The Whigs next took it up, and now it is a colour for a nobleman to wear. The first stone of the New Hall was laid by the Duke of York, April 28th, 1825, and the Hall publicly opened May 29th, 1829. The architect was James Shaw, who built the church of St. Dunstan's in Fleet-street. It is better in its proportions than in its details. Observe. — At the upper end of the Hall, a large picture of Edward VI. granting the charter of incor- poration to the Hospital. It is commonly assigned to Holbein, but upon no good authority. — Large picture, by Verrio, of James II. on his throne (surrounded by his courtiers, all curious portraits), receiving the mathematical pupils at their annual presentation : a custom still kept up at Court. The painter presented it to the Hospital. — Full- length of Charles II., by Verrio. — Full-length of Sir Francis Child (d. 1713), from whom Child's Banking-house derives its name. — Full-lengths of the Queen and Prince Albert, by F. Grant, A.R.A. — Brook Watson, when a boy, attacked by a shark, by J. S. Copley, R.A., the father of Lord Lyndhurst. — The stone inserted in the wall behind the steward's chair ; when a monitor wishes to report the misconduct of a boy, he tells him to " go to the stone." In this Hall, every year on St. Matthew's Day (Sept. 21st), the Grecians, or head-boys, deliver a series of orations before the Mayor, Corporation, and Governors, and here every Sunday, from Quinquagesima Sunday to Easter Sunday inclusive, the "Suppings in Public," as they are called, are held ; a picturesque sight, and always well attended. Each governor has a certain number of tickets to give away. The bowing to the governors, and pro- cession of the trades, is extremely curious.
The Grammar-school was built by the son of Mr. Shaw, and answers all the purposes for which it was erected. The two chief classes in the school are called " Grecians " and "Deputy-Grecians." Eminent Grecians. — Joshua Barnes (d. 1712,) editor of Anacreon and Euripides. Jeremiah Mark- land (d. 1776), an eminent critic, particularly in Greek literature. S. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834). Thomas Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes. Thomas Barnes, for many years, and till his death, editor of the Times news- paper. Eminent Deputy-Grecians. — Charles Lamb (Elia), whose delightful papers, "Kecollections of Christ's Hospital," and " Christ's Hospital Five-and-thirty Years Ago," have done
198 Christ's hospital.
so much to uphold the dignity of the school (d. 1834). Leigh Hunt.* Eminent Scholars ivhose standing in the School is unknown. — William Camden, author of the "Britannia." Bishop Stillingfieet. Samuel Richardson, author of Clarissa Harlowe.
The Mathematical-school was founded by Charles II., in 1672, for forty boys, called " King's boys," distinguished by a badge on the right shotilder. The school was afterwards enlarged, at the expense of a Mr. Stone. The boys on the new foundation wear a badge on the left shoulder, and are called " The Twelves," on account of their number. To * The Twelves " was afterwards added " The Twos/' on another foundation.
"As I ventured to call the Grecians the muftis of the school, the King's boys, as their character then was, may well pass for the janissaries. They were the constant terror to the younger part ; and some who may read this, I doubt not, will remember the consternation into which the juvenile fry of us were thrown, when the cry was raised in the cloister that ' the First Order ' was coming, for so they termed the first form or class of those boys." — Charles Lamb.
Peter the Great took two of the mathematical boys with him to St. Petersburg. One was murdered in the streets, shortly after his arrival ; and of the other nothing is known.
The Writing-school was founded in 1694, and furnished at the sole charge of Sir John Moore, Lord Mayor in 1681. The school has always been famous for its penmen. The Wards or Dormitories in which the boys sleep are seventeen in num- ber. Each boy makes his own bed; and each ward is governed by a nurse and two or more monitors. '
The Counting-house contains a good portrait of Edward VI., after Holbein — very probably by him. The dress of the boys is not the only remnant of byegone times, peculiar to the school. Old names still haunt the precinct of the Grey- friars : the place where is stored the bread and butter is still the "buttery; " and the open ground in front of the Q ram- mar-school is still distinguished as " the Ditch," because the ditch of the City ran through the precinct. The boys still take their milk from wooden bowls, their meat from wooden trenchers, and their beer is poured from leathern black jacks into wooden piggins. They have also a currency and almost, a language of their own. The Spital sermons are still preached before them. Every Easter Monday they visit the Koyal Exchange, and every Easter Tuesday the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion-house. But the customs which distinguished
* May the author be excused for adding, in a note (gratefully), that he, too, was a Deputy Grecian at Christ's Hospital under Dr. Orceinvoud ?
MERCHANT TAILORS SCHOOL. 199
the school are fast dying away : the saints' days are no longer holidays ; the money-boxes for the poor have disappeared from the cloisters j the dungeons for the unruly have been done away with ; and the governors are too lax in allowing the boys to wear caps and hats, and even at a distance to change the dress. When the dress is once done away with, the Hospital will sink into a common charity school. Some changes, however, have been effected for the better : the boys no longer perform the commonest menial occupations ; and the bread and beer for breakfast has been discontinued since 1824. Mode of Admission. — Boys whose parents may not be free of the City of London are admissible on Free Presentations, as they are called, as also are the sons of clergymen of the Chiirch of England. The Lord Mayor has two presentations annually, and the Court of Aldermen one each. The rest of the governors have presentations once in three years. A list of the governors who have presentations for the year is printed every Easter, and may be had at the counting-house of the Hospital. No boy is admitted before he is seven years old, or after he is nine : and no boy can remain in the school after he is fifteen — King's Boys and Grecians alone excepted. Qualification for Governor. — Pay- ment of 500?. An Alderman has the power of nominating a governor for election at half-price. The branch-school at Hertford was founded in 1683. Here girls are educated as well as boys ; that this was the case once in London, Pepys confirms by a curious story.
MERCHANT TAILORS' SCHOOL, in Suffolk Lane, in the ward of Dowgate, founded in 1561, by the master, wardens, and assistants of the Merchant Tailors' Company. Sir Thomas White, who had recently founded St. John's College, Oxford, was then a member of the Co\u*t ; and Richard Hills, some- time master of the Company, gave 500?. towards the purchase of a portion of a house, called the " Manor of the Rose," sometime belonging to the Duke of Buckingham, and men- tioned by Shakspeare : —
" The Duke being at the Rose, within the Parish St. Lawrence Poultney, did of me demand "What was the speech among the Londoners Concerning the French journey."
Henry VIII., Acti., sc. 1.
"The Rose" had been formerly in the possession of the De la Pole or Suffolk family, and was originally built by Sir John Poultney, knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in the reign of Edward HI. Traces of its successive owners are
200 MERCHANT TAILORS* SCHOOL.
still found ill the name of the parish of " St. Laurence Pount- ney," in which the school is situate ; in " Duck's-foot-lane" (the Duke's foot-lane, or private road from his garden to the river), which is close at hand ; and in " Suffolk-lane," by which it is approached. The Great Fire destroyed this ancient pile. The present school (a brick building with pilasters), and the head-master's residence adjoining, were erected in 1675. The former consists of the large upper school-room, two writing-rooms, formed, in 1829, out of part of the cloister ; a class-room, and a library (standing in the situation of the ducal chapel), stored with a fair collection of theological and classical works. The school consists of 260 boys. The charge for education has varied at different periods, but it is now 10/. per annum for each boy. Boys are admitted at any age, and may remain until the Monday after St. John the Baptist's Day preceding their 19th birthday. Presentations are in the gift of the members of the Court of the Company in rotation. Boys who have been entered on or below the third form are eligible to all the school prefer- ments at the Universities ; those who have been entered higher, only to the exhibitions. The course of education since the foundation of the school has embraced Hebrew and classical literature ; writing, arithmetic, and mathematics were introduced in 1829, and French and modern history in 1846. There is no property belonging to the school, with the exception of the buildings above described ; and it is supported by the Merchant Tailors' Company out of their several "funds, without any specific fund being set apart for that object;" it was, therefore, exempt from the inquiry of the Charity Commissioners ; but like Winchester, Eton, and "Westminster, it has a college almost appropriated to its scholars. Thirty-seven out of the fifty fellowships at St. John's, Oxford, founded by Sir Thomas White, belong to Merchant Tailors'; 8 exhibitions at Oxford, 6 at Cambridge, and 4 to either University, averaging from 30/. to 70/. per annum, besides a multitude of smaller exhibitions, are also attached to it. The election to these preferments takes place annually, on St. Barnabas' Day, June 11th, with the sanction of the President or two senior Fellows of St. John's. This is the chief speech-day, and on it the school prizes are distributed : but there is another, called " the doctors' day," in December. Plays were formerly acted by the buys of this school, as at Westminster. The earliest instance known was in 1666. Garrick, who was a persona] friend of the then Head-Master of his time, was frequently present, and took great interest in the performances. Emmeni Men educated Rl Murhant
CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL. 201
Tailors' School. — Bishop Andrewes, Bishop Dove, and Bishop Tomson (three of the translators of the Bible) ; Edwin Sandys, the traveller, the friend of Hooker ; Bulstrode Whitelocke, author of the Memorials which bear his name ; James Shirley, the dramatic poet ; the infamous Titus Oates ; Charles Wheatley, the ritualist ; Neale, the author of the History of the Puritans ; Edmund Calamy, the nonconformist, and his grandson of the same name ; Edmund Gayton, author of the Festivous Notes on Don Quixote ; John Byrom, author of the Pastoral, in the Spectator,
" My time, O ye Muses, -was happily spent ; "
Luke Milbourne, Dryden's antagonist ; Eobert, the celebrated Lord Clive ; Charles Mathews, the comedian ; and Lieut.-Col. Dixon Denham, the African traveller.
CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, Milk Street, Cheapside, established 1835, for the sons of respectable persons engaged in professional, commercial, or trading pursuits : and partly founded on an income of 900?. a-year, derived from certain tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, town-clerk of London, in the reign of Henry V., "for the finding and bringing up of four poor men's children with meat, drink, apparel, learning at the schools, in the universities, &c, until they be preferred, and then others in their places for ever." This was the same John Carpenter who " caused, with great expense, to be curiously painted upon board, about the N. cloister of Paul's, a monument of Death leading all Estates, with the speeches of Death and answers of every State." The school year is divided into three terms : Easter to July ; August to Christmas ; January to Easter ; and the charge for each pupil is 21. 5s. a term. The printed form of application for admission may be had of the secretary, and must be filled up by the parent or guardian, and signed by a member of the Corporation of London. The general course of instruction includes the English, French, German, Latin, and Greek languages, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, geography, and history. Besides 8 free scholarships on the foundation, equivalent to 35Z. per annum each, and available as exhibitions to the Universities, there are the following exhibitions belonging to the school : — The " Times " Scholar- ship, value 30/. per annum ; 3 Beaufoy Scholarships, the Salomons Scholarship, and the Travers Scholarship, 501. per annum each ; the Tegg Scholarship, nearly 20/. per annum ; and several other valuable prizes. The first stone of the School was laid by Lord Brougham, Oct. 21st, 1835.
202 MIIOOL OF DESIGN.
GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN is in Somerset House, on your right as you enter the vestibule, and -was established (1837) by, and under the superintendence of, the Board of Trade for the Improvement of Ornamental Art, with regard especialty to the staple manufactures of this country. The school is maintained by an annual grant from Parliament of 1500/. Mode of A dmission. — The recommenda- tion of a householder. There is a morning school for females, open daily, from 11 to 2 o'clock, Saturdays excepted. The school for males is open to the inspection of the public every Monday, between 11 and 3. There is also a class for ladies to learn wood-engraving. The course of instruction com- prehends the following classes : Elementary drawing, in outline with pencil ; shading with chalk after engraved examples ; shading from casts ; chiaroscuro painting ; colour- ing ; drawing the figure after engraved copies ; drawing the figure from casts : painting the figure from casts ; geometrical drawing applied to ornament ; perspective ; modelling from engraved copies, design, &c. Every student in the school is required to draw the human figure, and to pass through at least the elementary classes, as indispensable to the general course of instruction. The number of students that can be accommodated at one time is 200. The greatest number of students of the same calling are the ornamental painters and house-decorators ; the next most numerous are draughtsmen and designers for various manufactures and trades. In con- nection with the head-school at Somerset House, schools have been formed in many of the principal manufacturing districts throughout the country. There is also a branch school at Spitalfields.
Besides these, the visitor curious about modes of education should visit the " Wesleyan Normal College," Horseforry- road, Westminster, established 1850 (.hum < Wilson* archi- tect), forthe training of school-masters and mistresses, and the education of the children residing in the locality ; the "Ragged School," in South Lambeth, founded by the late Mr. .Moaufoy (d. 1851) ; the Normal School, in the Fulham-road j and the Kneller Training Sohoolj for masters of workhouse schools, &c, near Twickenham. Should he wish to pursue his in- quiries further, he must leave London for the l* Diversities of Oxford and Cambridge, for the Eaat India Company's Colleges at Addlacombe and Baileybury, and the Ordnance School and College at Chiselhurst and Woolwich.
ST. BARTHOLOMEW S HOSPITAL. 203
HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
Taking the Avhole of London, and extending the circuit line as far as Greenwich, there are no less than 491 Charitable Institutions (or parent societies) thus divided : —
12 General Medical Hospitals.
50 Medical Charities for special purposes ; such as Small Pox,
Consumption, Cancer, &c. 35 General Dispensaries. 12 Societies and Institutions for the preservation of life and
public morals. 18 Societies for reclaiming the fallen and staying the progress
of crime. 14 Societies for the relief of general destitution and distress. 12 Societies for relief of specific description. 14 Societies for aiding the resources of the industrious (ex- clusive of loan funds and savings' banks). 11 Societies for the deaf and dumb and the blind. 103 Colleges, Hospitals, and Institutions of Almshouses for the
aged. 1G Charitable Pension Societies. 74 Charitable and Provident Societies chiefly for specified
classes. 31 Asylums for orphan and other necessitous children. 10 Educational Foundations. 4 Charitable Modern Ditto. 40 School Societies, Religious Books, Church-aiding, and
Christian Visiting Societies. 35 Bible and Missionary Societies.
In all 491 parent societies disbursing annually in aid of their respective objects 1,764,733?., of which upwards of 1,000,000?. is raised by voluntary contributions.
Of these institutions five are Royal Hospitals. One for the education of youth (Christ's Hospital, p. 196) ; three for the cure of disease (St. Bartholomew's, St. Thomas's, and Bethlehem); and one Bridewell, for the punishment of the idle and the dissolute. Bedlam and Bridewell, with arental between 25,000?. and 30,000?. a year, are under the same direction.
The leading institutions which the stranger or resident in London will find best worth visiting are : —
ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL, in Smithfield, the earliest institution of the kind in London, occupying part of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded a.d. 1102, by Rahere, the first Prior ; repaired and enlarged by the executors of Richard Whittington, the celebrated Mayor; and founded anew, at the dissolution of religious houses, by Henry VIII., " for the continual relief and help of an hundred sore and diseased ; " the immediate superintendence of the Hospital
204 st. Bartholomew's hospital.
being committed by the king to Thomas Yieary, Serjeant- Surgeon to Hemy VIIL, Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, and author of "The Englishman's Treasure," the first work on anatomy published in the English language. The great quadrangle of the present edifice was built (1730-33) by James Gibbs, architect of the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. The gate towards Smithfield was built in 1702, and the New Surgery in 1842. This Hospital gives relief to all poor per- sons suffering from accident or diseases, either as in-patients or out-patients. Cases of all kinds are received into the Hospital, including diseases of the eyes, distortions of the limbs, and all other infirmities which can be relieved by medicine or surgery. Accidents, or cases of urgent disease, may be brought without any letter or recommendation or other formality at all hours of the day or night to the Sur- gery, where there is a person in constant attendance, and the aid of the Resident Medical Officers can be instantly obtained. General admission-day, Thursday, at 11 o'clock. Petitions for admission to be obtained at the Steward's Office, any day, between 10 and 2. Any other information may be obtained from the porter at the gate. The Hospital contains 580 beds, and relief is afforded to 70,000 patients annually. The in-patients are visited daily by the Physicians and Surgeons : and, during the summer session, four Clinical Lectures are delivered weekly. The out-patients are attended daily by the Assistant-Physicians and Assistant-Surgeons. Students can reside within the Hospital walls, subject to the rules of the Collegiate system, established under the direction of the Treasurer and a Committee of Governors of the Hospital. Some of the teachers and other gentlemen connected with the Hospital also receive Students to reside with them. Further information may be obtained from the Medical or Surgical Officers or Lecturers, or at the Anatomical Museum or Library. Between 200/. and 300?. are spent every year for strong sound port wine, for the sick poor in Bartholomew's Hospital. It is bought in pipes, and drawn off as needed. Nearly 2000 lbs. weight of castor oil ; 200 gallons of spirits of wine, at 17s. a gallon; 12 tons of linseed meal ; 1000 lbs. weight of senna ; 27 cwt. of salts, are items in the annual account for drugs ; the grand total spent upon physio, in a twelvemonth, being 2,600?. 5000 yards of ealieo are wanted for rollers for bandaging ; to say nothing of the stouter and stiffer fabric used for plaisters. More than half a hundred weight of sarsaparilla is used every week, a Blga how much the constitution of the patients requires improve- ment. In a year, 29,700 leeches were bought for the use of
st. Bartholomew's hospital. 205
the establishment. A ton and a half of treacle is annually xised in syrup. Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, was Physician to the Hospital for 34 years, (1609-43), and the rules which he laid down for the duties of the medical officers of the Hospital were adhered to for nearly a century after his retirement. The date of the actual commencement of a Medical School is unknown ; but in 1662, students were in the habit of attending the medical and surgical practice; and in 1667, their studies were assisted by the formation of a Library " for the use of the Governors and young University scholars." A building for a Museum of Anatomical and Chirurgical Preparations was provided in 1724, and, in 1734, leave was granted for any of the Surgeons or Assistant-Surgeons "to read Lectures in Anatomy in the dissecting-room of the Hospital." The first Surgeon who availed himself of this permission was Mr. Edward Nourse, whose anatomical lectures, delivered for many years in or near the Hospital, were followed, in 1765, and for many years after, by courses of Lectures on Surgery from his former pupil and prosector, Percival Pott : and. about the same time, Dr. William Pitcairn, and subse- quently Dr. David Pitcairn, successively Physicians to the Hospital, delivered lectures, probably occasional ones, on Medicine. Further additions to the course of instruction were made by Mr. Abernethy, who was elected Assistant- Surgeon in 1787, and by whom, w7ith the assistance of Drs. William and David Pitcairn, the principal lectures of the present day were established. Abernethy lectured on Anatomy, Physiology, and Surgery, in a theatre erected for him by the Governors in 1791, and his high reputation attracting so great a body of students it was found necessary, in 1822, to erect a new and larger Anatomical Theatre. The progress of science and the extension of medical education in the last twenty years have led to the institution of additional lectureships on subjects auxiliary to Medicine, and on new and important applications of it ; and further facilities have been afforded for instruction. In 1835, the Anatomical Museum was considerably enlarged, a new Medical Theatre was built, and Museums of Materia Medica and Botany were founded ; and, at the same time, the Library was removed to the present building, and enriched by liberal contributions. In 1834, the Medical Officers and Lecturers commenced the practice of offering Prizes and Honorary Distinctions for superior knowledge displayed at the annual examinations of their classes ; and in 1845, four scholarships were founded, each tenable for three years, and of the annual value of 45?.
206 BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL.
and 50?., with the design not only of encouraging learning, but of assisting Students to prolong their attendance, beyond the usual period, on the medical and surgical practice of the Hospital. In 1843, the Governors founded a Collegiate Establishment, to afford the Pupils the moral advantages, together with the comfort and convenience, of a residence within the walls of the Hospital, and to supply them with ready guidance and sssistanee in their studies. The chief officer of the College is called the Warden. The President of the Hospital must have served the office of Lord Mayor. The cmalification of a Governor is a donation of 100 guineas. The greatest individual benefactor to St. Bartholomew's was the celebrated Dr. Radcliffe, who left the yearly sum of 500?. for ever, towards mending the diet of the Hospital, and the further sum of 100?. for ever, for the purchase of linen. Observe. — Portrait of Henry VIII. in the Court-room, esteemed an original, though not by Holbein; Portrait of Dr. Radcliffe, by Kncllcr; good Portrait of Perceval Pott, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; fine Portrait of Abernethy, by Sir T. Lawrence. The Good Samaritan, and The Pool of Bethesda, on the grand staircase, were painted gratuitously by Hogarth; for which he was made a governor for life.
BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL (vulg. Bedlam), in St. George's Fields. An hospital for insane people, founded (1246) as a priory of canons, in Bishopsgate Without, by Simon Fitz- Mary, one of the Sheriffs of London. Henry VIII., at the Dissolution, gave it to the City of London, when it was first converted into an hospital for lunatics. Fits-Mai y's Hospital was taken down in 1075, and the Hospital removed to Moorfields, "at the cost of nigh 17,000?." Of this second Bedlam (Robert Hooke, architect) there is a view in Strype. Bedlam, in Moorfields, was taken down in 1814, and the first stone of the present Hospital (James Lewis, architect) laid April 18th, 181*2. The cupola, a recent addition, was designed by Sydney Smirkc. The first Hospital could accommodate only 50 or 00, and the second 150. The building in St. < ieorgr's-iields was originally constructed
for 108 patients, but this being found too limited for the
purposes and resources of the Hospital, a new wing was commenced for 166 additional patients, of which the fust stone was laid July 96th, 1838. The whole building (the
House of Occupations Included) covers, it is said, an area of U acres. Jn I :•-!;» bhs Governors admitted Blfl Durables
(110 males and 20.") females) j 7 Incurables (fi males and
2 females); 11 Criminals (7 I i females)] and 180
st. thomas's hospital. 207
Discharged Cured (62 males and 118 females). The ex- penses in 1837 amounted to 19,7617. 15s. 7d. The way in which the comfort of the patients is studied by every one connected with the Hospital cannot be too highly com- mended. The women have pianos, and the men billiard and bagatelle-tables. There are, indeed, few things to remind you that you are in a mad-house beyond the bone knives in use, and a few cells lined and floored with cork and india-rubber, and against which the insanest patient may knock his head without the possibility of hurting it. Among the unfortu- nate inmates have been — Peg Nicholson, for attempting to stab George III. ; she died here in 1828, after a confinement of 42 years. — Hatfield, for attempting to shoot the same king in Drury-lane Theatre. — Oxford, for firing at Queen Victoria in St. James's Park. — M'Naghten, for shooting Mr. Edward Drummond at Charing-cross ; he mistook Mr. Drum- mond, the private secretary of Sir Robert Peel, for Sir R. Peel himself. Visitors, interested in cases of lunacy, should see Hanicell Asylum, on the Great Western Railway (7^ miles from London), and the Colney Hatch Asylum on the Great Northern Railway (6f miles from London), the latter covering 119 acres, and erected at a cost of 200,000?.
ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, High Street, Southward An Hospital for sick and diseased poor persons, under the management of the Corporation of the City of London, founded (1213) by Richard, Prior of Bermondsey, as an Almonry, or house of alms; founded again more fully (1215) for canons regular, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Win- chester; bought at the dissolution of religious houses by the citizens of London, and opened by them as an Hospital for poor, impotent, and diseased people, Nov. 1552. The building having fallen into decay, the governors, in 1699, solicited the benevolence of the public for its support, and with such success that the whole hospital was (1701-6) built anew. As thus restored, the building consisted of three courts, with colonnades between each. Three wards were built at the sole cost of Thomas Frederick, Esq. ; and three (on the north side of the outer court) by Thomas Guy, the munificent founder of the hospital which bears his name. Day of admission, Tuesday morning, at 10. Patients stating their complaints may receive a petition at the steward's office, to be signed by a housekeeper, who must engage to remove the patient on discharge or death, or pay 11. Is. for funeral. The qualification of a governor is a donation of 501. Of the 46,733 people under the care of the governors of this
208 guy's nosriTAL.
Hospital iu the year 1845, 3552 in-patients and 41,815 out- patients were cored and discharged, leaving 1232 in and out-patients remaining under cure.
GUY'S HOSPITAL, in SOUTHWABK, for the sick and lame, situated near London Bridge, built by Dance (d. 1768), and endowed by Thomas Gray, a bookseller in Lombard- street, who is said to have made his fortune ostensibly by the sale of Bibles, but more, it is thought, by purchasing seamen's tickets, and by his great success in the sale and transfer of stock in the memorable South Sea year of 1720. Guy v. a- ;i native of Tamworth, in Staffordshire, and died (1724) at the age of 80. The building of the Hospital cost 18,793Z. 16s. Id., and the endowment amounted to 219,499/. 0s. Ad. The founder, though 76 when the work began, lived to see his Hospital covered with the roof In the first court is his statue in brass, dressed in his livery gown, and in the chapel (" shouldering God's altar") another statue of him in marble, by the elder Bacon. Sir Astky Cooper, the eminent surgeon (d. 1841), is buried in the chapel of this Hospital.
Gentlemen who desire to become Students must give satisfactory testimony as to their education and conduct. They are required to pay 40/. for the first year, AQl. for the second year, and 10/. for every succeeding year of attendance.
The payment for the year admits to the Lectures. Practice, and all the privileges of a Student.
Dressers, Clinical Clerks, Assistants, and Resident Obste- tric Clerks are selected according to merit from those Students who have attended a second year.
The Apothecary to the Hospital is authorised to enter the Names of Students, and to give further particulars if required,
ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL, Hyde Tark Corner, at the top of Qrosvenor-place. An hospital for sick and lame people, supported by voluntary contributions; built by William Wilkins, K.A.. architect of the National Gallery, on the site of Lanesborough Bouse, the London residence of
•• Bobex Laneibro' dancing with the gout;" convert.- 1 into an Infirmary in 1788. John Hunter, the physician, died (17'.':'.> in this Hospital. He had long suf- fered from an affection of the heart; and in an altercation with one of bis colleagues, about a matter of right, which had been, by the governora of the Hospital, as he thought, improperly refused turn, he suddenly stopped, retired to an ante room, aud immediately expired,
CHELSEA HOSPITAL. 200
CHELSEA HOSPITAL. A Royal Hospital for old and disabled soldici's ; erected on the site of Chelsea College. The first stone was laid by Charles II. in person, March, I'M -2. It has a centre, with two wings of red brick, with stone dressings, faces the Thames, and shows more effect with less means than any other of Wren's buildings. The history of its erection is contained on the frieze of the great quadrangle : —
" In subsidium et levamen emeritorum senio, belloque fractorum, condidit Carolus Secimdus, auxit Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Guliclmus et Maria Rex et Regina, MDCXC."
The total cost is said to have been 150,000?. Observe. — Portrait of Charles II. on horseback (in hall), by Verrio and Henry Cooke; altar-piece (in chapel) by Sebastian Riceij bronze statue of Charles II. in centre of the great quadrangle, executed by Grinling Gibbons for Tobias Iiustat. In the Hall, in which Whitelocke was tried, and in which the Court of Enquiry into the Convention of Cintra sat, are 46 colours ; and in the Chapel 55 (all captured by the British army in different campaigns in various parts of the world), viz. : — 34 French; 13 American; 4 Dutch; 13 eagles taken from the French ; 2 at Waterloo ; 2 Salamanca ; 2 Madrid ; 4 Martinique; 1 Barossa ; and a few staves of the 171 colours taken at Blenheim. At St. Paul's, where the Blenheim colours were suspended, not a rag nor a staff remains. Eminent Persons interred in the Chapel. — William Cheselden, the famous surgeon (d. 1752) ; Rev. William Young (d. 1757), the original Parson Adams in Fielding's Joseph Andrews. Dr. Arbuthnot filled the office of physician, and the Rev. Philip Francis (the translator of Horace) the office of chaplain to the Hospital. The number of in-pensioners is from 400 to 430 (as many as the Hospital will accommodate), main- tained at a cost of 36Z. a year for each pensioner. The out-pensioners, about 76,000 in number, arc paid at rates varying from 2ld. a day to 3s. 6d. a day ; the majority at (hi., 9d., and Is. By Lord Hardinge's warrant of 1829, foot- soldiers to be entitled to a Chelsea pension must have served twenty-one years, horse-soldiers twenty-four. By Sir John Hobhouse's warrant of 1833, the period war, unnecessarily lengthened, and the pay unnecessarily lessened. Few invalids, it is said, apply to become in-pensioners, who have an cut- pension amounting to lOd. or Is. per day. There ifl a pleasant tradition that Nell Gwynne materially assisted in the foundation of Chelsea Hospital. Her head, and one of some standing, is the sign of a neighbouring public-house. The Hospital is managed by a Governor, Commissioners, &c.
r
210 '.KKENWKII HOSPITAL.
The Governor is appointed by the Sovereign, acting on the advice of the Commander-in-Chief.
QREErtWICH HOSPITAL. A Hospital ft* old and dis- Ibled Bailors of fthe Royal Navy, founded by King William aii-l Queen Mary, and erected on the site of the old Manor rlouse of our kings, in Which Henry VIII. and hie Mary and Elisabeth vrere born. Kin.: Charles II.. intending to erect a new |>alaoe "n the -it'', tin- west wing was com- menced in 1664, from tin- designs of Webb, the kinsman ami executor of [nigo Jones. All that Webb erected, all indeed of tin- present building, erected by Charles tL or hit
was this -. The first stone of the Hospital
works, in continuation <»f the unfinished palace, was laid 3rd June, 1606: and in January, 1705, the building was first opened for the reception of pensioners. The river front is doubtL as Webb's design, though only the wot win- was of his erection. The colonnades, the cupolas, and th(
hall, are by Wren. The chapel was built by Athenian Btuart, in place of the original chapel, built by Ripley, and destroyed by fii<' 2nd January, 177!'. The brick buildings to the west
ate by VanbrUgh. The hoUSe seen in the centre of the
■ [iiare, and disfiguring this part of the structure, was
built l>y Inigo Jones, for Henrietta Maria, and is now the
Etoyal Naval BchooL The statue l>y l!\>hraek. in the centre
of the quadrangle, represents King George tL, and wall cut
from a Mock of marble taken from the Prench by sir (Jcorge Efooka
The //-,//. a well-proporttotled edifice. 106 feet lon& 56 feet wide, and 50 feet high, is the work of Wren. The emblemati-
cal ceiling and side walls were executeil l>y Sir .lame- Thorn- hill, between 1708-27, and cost 6685J., or 3/. per yard for the wiling, and i/. for the sidea Among the portraits, oojeres, foil-length of the Earl of Nottingham, Admiral of England againsl the Spanish Armada. Vantomerj half-lengths, pamted for the Duke of York (James EL), of Monk, Duke of Albe- marle; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Admirals Ayacue, Law- ion, Tyddeman, Mings, Penn, Barman, and Vice-Admirals Berkeley, Smith, ami Jordan, by Sit Peter f^iu, all cele- brated commanders at sea againsl the Dutch in the n Charles II.; Etussell, Earl of Orford, victor at La H Bookman ; sir Gtaorge Etooke, who took Gibraltar, /><»/'/; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, DcJd; aevera] Admirals, Knetter ; Captain
Minted for Sir Joseph Hanks^ ; Sir Thomas
Hardy, /.'runs. The other portraits are principally 06]
inferior artists. Among the subject pictun heath
0RBBNWICH HOSPITAL. 21 1
of Captain Cook, Zoffany ; Lord Howe's Victory of the 1st ,,f June, Loutherbourg j Battle of Trafalgar, ./. J/. IT. 7 The statues, erected by vote of Parliament, represent Bir Sydney Smith, Lord Exiiumth, and Lord De Saumares, and cost 1500/. each ; the Smith by Kirh of Dublin, the Ennouth by Mac Dowell of London, and the De Saumarez by Steel of Edinburgh. In Upper Hall, obtoroe, — Astrolabe presented to Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth j coat worn by Nelson at the Battle of the Nile ; coat and waistcoat in which Neb >n was killed at Trafalgar.
"The coat is the undress uniform of a vice-admiral, lined with -white silk, with lace on the cuffs, and epaulettes. Four Btare -of the I >rdcrs of the Bath, St. Ferdinand and Merit, the Crescent, and St. Joachim— are seicn on the left breast, as Nelson habitually wore them : which disproves the story that he purposely adorned himself with his linnMjHnnn an going into battle! The course of the fatal ball is shown by a ! the left shoulder, and part of the epaulette is torn away ; which agrees with Dr. Sir William l'.eattie's aocotltlt Of Lord Nelson's death, and with the fact that pieces of the bullion and pad of the epaulette adhered t>> the ball, which is now in Her Majesty's possession. The coat and waistcoat are stained in several places with the hero's blood." — Sir Harris Nicolas.
The Chapel, built 1779-89, by Athenian Stuart, contains an altar-piece, "The Shipwreck of St. Paul," by B. Wat, P. II. A.( and monuments, erected by King William IV., to Admiral Sir Richard Goodwin Keats, and Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy (Nelson's captain at Trafalgar) ; the former by Chantrcy, and the latter by Behnes. Keats, as^ the inscription sets forth, was the shipmate and watchmate of William IV., on board the Prince George, 1779-81 ; the commoner serving as lieutenant, and the king as midshipman
The Shoic Dormitories are in King Charles's building.
The income of the Hospital is above 130,0002. a year, de- rived from an annual Parliamentary grant of 20,000/. ; from fines levied against smuggling, 19,500?. ; effects of Captain Kidd, the pirate, 64721. ; forfeited and unclaimed shares of prize and bounty money, granted in 1708; 6000?. a yettrj granted in 1710, out of the coal and culm tax ; various private bequests, particularly one of 20,000/. from Robert Osbaldes- ton, and the valuable estates forfeited, in 1715, by tin of Derwentwater.
The Hospital Gates open at Sunrise. The Painted II open every Week-day from Ten to Seven during the Slimmer months, and from Ten to Three in the Winter; and on Sun- days after Divine Service in the Morning. On Monday and Friday it is open free to the public ; and on the other days, on payment of threepence. Soldiers and sailors are admitted
212 FOUNDLING HOSPITAL,
free at all times. The Chapel is open under tlie same regu- lations as the Painted Hall.
Among the noble institutions of a like nature with which London abounds may be mentioned : — 1. The London Hospital. 2. Westminster Hospital. 3. Charing-cross Hospital. 4. Royal Free Hospital, in Gray's-Inn-road. 5. King's College Hospital, Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 6. University College Hospital. 7. St. Mary's Hospital, Cambridge-place, Paddiugton. The "Westminster relieves about 16,000 patients annually, of whom, in 1850, upwards of 10,000 were admitted on no other claim than the urgency of their cases.
Among the Charities for Reclaiming the Fallen, the reform- ation of criminals, and staying the progress of crime, the Foundling, the Magdalen, and the Lock arc the most important.
The FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guildford Street, was founded in 1739, by Captain Thomas Coram, as "an hospital for exposed and deserted children." The ground was bought of the Earl of Salisbury for 7000Z., and the Hospital built by Theodore Jacobson (d. 1772), architect of the Royal Hospital at Gosport. The Hospital was changed, in 1760, from a Foundling Hospital to what it now is, an hospital for poor illegitimate children whose mothers are known. The com- mittee requires to be satisfied of the previous good character and present necessity of the mother of every child proposed for admission. The qualifioation of a governor is a donation of 50/. Among the principal benefactors to the Foundling Hospital, the great Handel stands unquestionably the first. Here, in the chapel of the Hospital, he frequently performed his Oratorio of the Messiah. Obsen'c. — Portrait of Captain Coram, full-length, by Hogarth.
"The portrait I painted with the most pleasure, and in which I par- ticularly wished to excel, was that of Captain Coram for the Foundling Hospital; and if I am so wretched an artist as my enemies assert, it is somewhat strange that this, which was one of the first I painted the size of life, should stand the test of twenty years' competition, and he. generally thought the hest portrait in the' place, notwithstanding the first painters in the kingdom exerted all their talents to vie with it."— Hogarth.
The March to Finchley, by Hogarth : Moses brought to Pharaoh's Daughter, by Hogarth; Dr. Mead, by Allan Ranuay ; Lord Dartmouth; by Sir Joshua Rtynotdi j • EL, by Shaekleton ; View of the Foundling Hospital, by Richard WiUon : St. George's Hospital, by Richard tyikon; .Sutton's Hospital (the Charter House), by Gainsborough ; Chelsea Hospital, by Hgatleg ; Bethlehem Hospital, by
LOCK HOSPITAL. 213
Haytley ; St. Thomas's Hospital, by Wale ; Greenwich Hos- pital, by Wale ; Christ's Hospital, by Wale; three sacred subjects, by Hay man, Higlimore, and Wills; also bas-relief, by RysbracJc. These pictures were chiefly gifts, and illustrate the state of art in England about the middle of the last century. The music in the chapel of the Hospital on Sundays — the children being the choristers — is fine, and worth hearing. Lord Chief Justice Tenterden (d. 1832) is buried in the chapel. The Foundling is open for the inspec- tion of strangers every Monday from 10 to 4. The juvenile band of the establishment perform from 3 to 4. The services of the chapel on Sundays commence in the morning at 11 o'clock, and in the afternoon at 3, precisely. Strangers may walk over the building after the services. The servants are not permitted to receive fees, but a collection is made at the chapel doors to defray the expenses of that part of the establishment.
MAGDALEN" HOSPITAL, St. Geoege's Fields, for the reformation and relief of penitent prostitutes. Instituted 1758, chiefly by the exertions of Mr. Dingley, Sir John Fielding, Mr. Saunders Welch, and Jonas Hanway. A sub- scription of 20 guineas or more at one time, or of 5 guineas per annum for five successive years, is a qualification of a governor for life.
LOCK HOSPITAL, CHAPEL and ASYLUM, Harrow Road, Westbourne Green. Supposed to be so called from the French loques, rags, from the rags (lint) applied to wounds and sores ; so lock of wool, loch of hair. The Hos- pital (the only one of the kind in London) was established in 1746, for the cure of females suffering from disorders contracted by a vicious course of life ; the Chapel in 1764, as a means of income to the Hospital ; and the Asylum in 1787, for the reception of penitent females recovered in the Hospital. A subscription of 3 guineas annually entitles to one recommendation ; 501. donation, or 5 guineas annually, constitutes a governor. The Loke, or Lock, in Kent-street, in South wark (from which the present Hospital derives its name), was a lazar-housc, or 'spital for leprous people, from a very early period. There was a second betwixt Mile End and Stratford-le-Bow ; a third at Kingslan J, betwixt Shore- ditch and Stoke Newington ; and a fourth at Knightsbridge, near Hyde-Park-comer. In one of these Locks, Bully Dawson died in 1699, aged 43. St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, and St. James's Hospital in Westminster (now the Palace), were both instituted for the reception of lepers.
214 DREADNOUGHT HOSPITAL.
The DREADNOUGHT or SEAMEN'S HOSPITAL SHIP, for Sick ami Diaoaood Seamen of all Nations; who, on pre- senting themaelvei alongside tin- .-hi]', are immediately!* cviwil. without tin* necessity of a recommendatory letter. The Bospil il it supported by voluntary contributions. The Dreadnought fought at Trafalgar under Captain Conn! and oaptured the Spanish thme*dec)cer the San Juan.
Among the leading Societies for the Preservation of Human Life, Health, and Morals, may be mentioned : —
The ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY, for the recovery of persons from drowning, founded by Dr. Hawcs; instituted 1771: and still maintained by voluntary contributions. The Receiving House, a tasteful classic building, by Decimus Bin-ton, is close to the Serpentine River, in Hydo Park, and the Society's office at 3, Trafalgar-square. During a sevcro frost the Society has 50 icemen in its employ at an expense of 4s. 6d. a day for each man.
The MODEL BATHS and WASH-HOUSES, in Goulston SQUABS, Whitechapel (P. P. Baly, Engineer and Architect) ; George Street, Euston Square j St.Martin's-in-the-Fields, behind the National Gallery ; Marylkh<>m. : Wkstminstek \ St. James's, Piccadilly. That in Goulston-square, erected in 1847, was the earliest in point of time, and is still, perhaps, not to be surpassed. They are all self-supported, and have contributed materially to the comfort and health of the lower and middle classes of London. The Baths are scrupulously clean.
The Charities for the Blind, the Deaf, and the Dumb, are important and well deserving attention. The leading institutions of this nature arc : —
London Society fob Ti:.\chinu thk Bund to Reap. 1. Avenue-road, St. Jobn's-wood j instituted 1880. School for
tiii- oroiGEM r.i.iM>. St. George's-fiehb. Surrey; instituted
1780. A -vi i m roa ibm Botfobi \m' I'm < \ 1 1.'\ or D tap and Dumb OhzldbbBj Old Cent-road, Surrey] instituted 1788.
\:-<r further information regarding the Charities of London, reference should be made to Mr. Bempeou Low's excellent volume called the "Charities, of London,"
ciAi;s.
215
CLUB HOUSES.
PRINCIPAL CLUBS IN LONDO :
Those marked with an asterisk (*) admit Strangers to fjfa in the Strangers' Loom.
|
Name. |
Number of Mem- |
Entrance |
Annual |
Where |
|
bers li- |
Pee. |
Sub- |
Situate. |
|
|
mited to. |
scription. |
|||
|
£ s. |
£ $. |
|||
|
Alfred . |
600 |
23, Alhemarlc-st. |
||
|
Army and Navy • |
1450 |
30 0 |
6 11 |
I'all-mall. |
|
Arthur's . . . |
600 |
21 0 |
10 10 |
St. Janies's-st. |
|
Athenaeum |
1200 |
26 5 |
6 6 |
Pall-mall. |
|
Boodle's . . . |
•lames's-st. |
|||
|
Brooks's . |
575 |
9 9 |
11 11 |
St. .Jaincs's-st. |
|
Carlton . . . |
eoot |
15 15 |
10 10 |
Pall-mall. |
|
City of London |
26 5 |
6 6 |
Old Broad-st.City. |
|
|
Cocoa Tree |
St. .lames's-st. |
|||
|
Conservative . . |
1500 |
26 5 |
8 8 |
St. .laines's-st. |
|
Coventry House |
500 % |
12 12 |
12 12 |
Piccadilly. |
|
•Erechtheum . |
600 |
21 0 |
7 7 |
St. Jamcs's-sq. |
|
•Garriek . . . |
300 |
15 15 |
6 6 |
Kiii'-r-st., Covt.-gn. |
|
Guards . |
Officers c |
f Hous. Ti |
topa only. |
l'all-niall. |
|
* Junior United Serv. |
1500 |
30 0 |
5 5' |
Regent-street. |
|
Oriental . . . |
800 |
21 0 |
S 0 |
Ilunnvir-siuiare. |
|
Oxford &Cambridge |
1170 g |
26 5 |
6 6 |
Pall-mall. |
|
'Parthenon |
700 |
21 0 |
7 7 |
Regent-street. |
|
'Reform . . . |
1400 i| |
26 5 |
10 10 |
Pan-man. |
|
Travellers' |
700 |
21 0 |
10 10 |
Pall-mall. |
|
Union . . . . |
1000 |
32 11 |
I <; |
Trafalgar-square. |
|
United Service |
1500 |
80 0 |
6 0 |
rail-mail. |
|
University Club |
1000 f |
26 0 |
6 0 |
Pall-mail, |
|
White's . . . |
550 |
St. James's-st. |
||
|
Windham |
600 |
27 6 |
8 0 |
St. James's-sq. |
From the above table it •will be seen that the twenty-.- ix large clubs are nearly in one locality; nine being iu i'all- mall, and four in St. Janies's-street.
UNITED SERVICE CLUB, at the corner of PaJ 1 M.vr.r. and the opening into St. James's Paiik, erect c John Nash, architect. This is considered to be one of the most commodious, economical, and best managed of all the
t Exclusive of Peers and Members of House ofCommew, t 400 English, 100 Foreign. £ 686 from each University,
|| Exclusive of Honorary, Supernumerary, Mid Life Members. % 600 of each University.
216 CLUBS.
London Club-hou.se*. The pictures, though numerous, are chieliy copies.
JUNIOR UNITED SERVICE CLUB, N. oorner of Charles Street and E. side of Regent Sti:i:i:t. was built by Sir Robert Smirke, for the United Service Club, but was found too small for the purposes of the Club.
The ARMY AXD NAVY CLUB, in Pall Mali., oorner of Qbobgb Strut, St jAjaofa Squabs, was built 1847-50, from the designs of Messrs. Parnell and Smith. The carcase or shell of the building cost 18,5001 ; the interior 16,5007.— in all 35,000Z., exclusive of fittings. The comparatively small plot of land on which it stands has cost the Club 52,500/., and the total expenditure may be called in round numbers 1 mt.iioi)/. The largest apartment is the "Morning- room;" and the "Library " is larger than the Drawing-room. The enrichments of the ceilings throughout are in carton- pierre and papier-mache. The principal furniture is of walnut-wood. The Kitchen is one of the successful novelties of the building, and will repay a visit. There is even a separate cook for chops, steaks, and kidneys, who dedicates his whole time and skill to bringing these favourite articles of con- sumption to the perfection they deserve. The balcony of the Smoking-room commands a noble prospect of cats and chimneys. The room, however, is handsome and well ventilated.
The GUARDS' CLUB HOUSE, Pall Mall, was built 1848-50, from the designs of Henry Harrison, architect. The Club is restricted to the Officers of the Household Troops, as contradistinguished from the Line. The Household Troops are considered to be attendant on the sovereign, and are seldom sent abroad but on urgent service.
W1IITKS. A Tory Club-house, Nos. 37 and 88, St. .1 ami s's Street, over against Crockford's; originally White's Chocolate-house, under which name it was established aire. As a Club it dates. I believe, from 1736, when the house ceased to be an open chocolate-house, that any ouo might enter who was prepared to pay for what he had. It wa- then made ■ private house, for the convenience of the Chief frequenters Of the place, whose annual subscriptions
towards its support were paid to the proprietor, by whom the dub was Gunned. With reference to the great spirit of B«"fag which prevailed at White's, the arm- of the Club were designed by Horace Walpole and George Belwyn. The
blazon is vert (tor a card-table); three parolis proper 09
CLUBS. 217
a chevron sable (for a hazard-table) ; two rouleaus in saltier, between two dice proper, on a canton sable ; a white ball (for election) argent. The supporters are an old and young knave of clubs ; the crest, an arm out of an carl's coronet shaking a dice-box ; and the motto, " Cogit Amor Nummi." Round the arms is a claret bottle ticket by way of order. A book for entering bets is still laid on the table. The Club, on June 20th, 1814, gave a ball at Burlington House to the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the allied sovereigns then in England, which cost 9849/. 2s. 6d. Covers were laid for 2400 people. Three weeks after the Club gave a dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost 24S0Z. 105. 9d.
BROOKS'S CLUB, St. James's Street. A Whig Club- house, Xo. 60, on the W. side, but founded in Pall-mall in 1764, by 27 noblemen and gentlemen, including the Duke of Roxburgh, the Duke of Portland, the Earl of Strathmore, Mr. Crewe, afterwards Lord Crewe, and Mr. C. J. Fox. It was originally a gaming Club, and was farmed at first by Almack, but afterwards by Brooks, a wine merchant and money lender, who retired from the Club soon after it was built, and died poor about 1782. The present house was built, at Brooks's expense (from the designs of Henry Holland, architect), and opened in 1778. Sheridan was black-balled at Brooks's three times by George Selwyn, because his father had been upon the stage, and he only got in at last through a ruse of George IV. (then prince of Wales) who detained his adversary in conversation in the hall whilst the ballot was going on. The Club is restricted to 575 members. Entrance money, 9 guineas; annual subscription, 11 guineas ; two black-balls witt exclude. The Club (like White's) is still managed on the farming principle.
CARLTON CLUB, Pall Mall (S. side). A Tory and Conservative Club-house, originally built by Sir Robert Smirke, but since enlarged, and in every sense improved, by his brother, Mr. Sydney Smyrke. The portion recently built forms about one-third of "the intended new Club-house, and contains on the ground floor a coffee-room, 92 feet by 37 feet, and 21 £ feet high, and 28J feet high in the centre, where there is a glazed dome. On the first floor are a billiard-room and a private, or house, dinner-room. Above are smoking-rooms and dormitories for sen-ants. The ex- terior is built of Caen stone, except the shafts of the columns and pilasters, which are of polished Peterhead granite. The facade is of strictly Italian architecture, and consists of two
2lti CLUBS.
orders : the lower order Doric, the upper Ionic j and each iuter-columniation of both orders is occupied by an arched window, the keystones of which project so as to contribute towards the support of the entablature over them. The design is founded on the E. front of the Library of St. Marks, at Venice, by Sansoviuo and Scamozzi. The upper order is strictly after that building, except the sculpture, which differs' materially from that of the Italian example. The lower order is also different, inasmuch as the Library there has an open arcade on the ground floor, which was not admissible in the case of the Club-house. The introduction of polished granite in the exterior architecture of this build- ing is a novelty due to the establishment of extensive machinery for cutting and polishing granite at the quarries near Aberdeen, without the aid of which machinery the ex- pensewould have utterly precluded the useof polished granite. The chief object of the architect in introducing here a coloured material was to compensate, in some measure, for the loss of strong light and shadow in an elevation facing the N. It is intended to take down so much of the old building as may be necessary to complete the design, when the Club-house will have three uniform facades, similar in their architectural features to the portion already executed.
CONSERVATIVE CLUB HOUSE, on the W. side of St. James's Street. Founded, 1840, as a Club of ease to the Carlton. Built from the designs of the late George Basse vi and Sydney Smirke, 1843-45, on the site of the Thatched House Tavern, and opened Feb. 19th, 1845. The total cost of building and furnishing was 73,211/. 4s. 3d., the architects' commission being 3458/. 0's. The encaustic paintings of the interior arc by Mr. Bang, and were executed at an expense of 2697/. 15s. There are G public rooms, viz., a morning and evening-room, library, coffee-room, dining-room, and card- room. In addition to these- there are committee-rooms, billiard-rooms, &c. The most striking feature of the house is tho Hall, coved so as to allow a gallery to run round it, and the staircase, botli richly ornamented in colour. The most stately room is that for evening occupation, extending tVoin X. to S. of the building, on the first floor. It is nearly 100 feet hi h'H.u'th, -•» in breadth, and 25 in height, with coved fc-iling, supported by IS noble Scagliola Corinthian
column*. The mojning-room on the ground floor jft of the
same dimensions, and is \i iy eleganl in its appointment. Tho library occupies nearly the whole of the upper part of
tho N. of tho building. Tho collee-room, in the lower
clubs. _l:i
division of the northern portion of the building, is of the same proportions as the library. The Club is worked by a staff of 50 servants, male and female, the keep of whom, owing to judicious management, is said to be under 3s. S\d. per head per week. The average at the other leading Clubs is said to be from 10s. to 12s. per week. The election of members is made by the committee, 5 being a quorum and two black balls excluding.
REFORM CLUB, on the S. side of Pall Mall, between the Travellers' Club and the Carlton Club, was founded by the Liberal members of the two Houses of Parliament, about the time the Reform Bill was canvassed and carried, 1830-32. The Club consists of 1000 members, exclusive of members of either House of Parliament. Entrance fee, 25 guineas; annual subscription for the first five years of election, 101. 10s., subsequently, 8/. Ss. The house was built from the designs of Charles Barry, R.A. The exterior is greatly admired, though the windows, it is urged, are too small. The in- terior, especially the large square hall covered Avith glass, occupying the centre of the building, is very imposing. The water supply is from an Artesian well, 360 feet deep, sunk at the expense of the Club. The cooking establish- ment is said in brilliancy of cuisine to yield to none in Britain.
ATHENAEUM CLUB, Pall Mall. Instituted in 1823 by the Right Hon. John Wilson Croker, Sir T. Lawrence, Sir F. Chantrey, Mr. Jekyll, &c, " for the Association of individuals known for their literary or scientific attainments, artists of eminence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble- men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal patrons of Science, Literature, and the Arts." The members are chosen by ballot, except that the committee have the power of electing yearly, from the list of candidates for admission, a limited number of persons, "who shall have attained to distinguished eminence in Science, Literature, and the Arts, or for Public Services ; " the number so elected not to exceed nine in each year. The number of ordinary members is fixed at 1200; entrance fee, 25 guineas; yearly subscription, 6 guineas. One black ball in ten excludes. The present Clubdiouse (Decimus Burton, architect) was built in 1829.
" The only Club I belong to is the Atluna urn. which c< nsi^ls of twi-lve hundred members, amongst whom are to be reckoned a large prop* i ti> n of the most eminent persons in the land, in every line— civil, military, and ecclesiastical, peers spiritual and temporal (ninety-five noblemen and twelve bishops), commoners, men of the learned profeul* us. tin E6 connected with Science, the Aits, and Commerce in all its principal
220 CLUBS.
branches, as well as the distinguished who do not belong to any par- ticular class. .Many of these aie to be met with every day, living with the same freedom as in their own houses. For six guineas a-year every member has the command of an excellent library, with maps, of the daily papers, English and foreign, the principal periodicals, and every material for writing, with attendance for whatever is wanted. The building is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and comfort as a private dwelling. Every member is a master without any of the trouble of a master. He can come when he pleases, and stay away as long as he pleases, without anything going wrong. He has the command of regular servants without having to pay or to manage them. He can have whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and served up with the cleanliness and comfort of his own house. He orders just what he pleases, having no interest to think of but his own. In short, it is impossible to suppose a greater degree of liberty in living." — Walker's Original.
In the Coffee-room is a fine full-length unfinished portrait of George IV., the last work of Sir Thomas Lawrence. He was painting one of the orders on the breast a few hours before he died. The Library is the best Club Library in London.
ERECHTHEUM CLUB, St. James's Sqdare, corner of York Street. A kind of junior Athenaeum, established by Sir John Dean Paul, Bart, in 183-, and deservedly celebrated for its good dinners. The Club-house was formerly inha- bited by Mr. Wedgewood, whose " ware " is so famous, and stands on the site of " Romney House," built for Henry Sydney, Earl of Rodney, the handsome Sydney of De Gram- mont's Memoirs.
UNIVERSITY CLUB HOUSE, Suffolk Street, and Pall Mall East, was built by William AVilkins, R.A., and J. P. Gandy, and opened Feb. 13th, 1826. The members belong to the two Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Entrance fee, 25 guineas ; annual subscription, 6 guineas.
OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB, Pall Mall. Built 1838 (Sidney Smirke, A.R.A., architect). Entrance-money, 20 guineas; annual subscription, 10 guineas. Number of members, 1000.
UNION CLUB HOUSE, Cockspur Street, and S.W. end of Trafalgar Square (Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. archi- tect). The Club is chiefly composed of merchants, lawyers, members of parliament, ami. us James Smith, who was a member, writes, " of gentlemen at large." The stock of wine in the cellars of this Club is said to be the largest belonging to any Club in London. Entrance money, 30 guineas ; am mil subscription, 0 guineas.
GARRICK CLUB, No. 86, Knra Street, Covert Garde*.
Instituted in 1S31, and named after David Carrick. to denote
CLUBS. 22 L
the theatrical inclination of its members. A lover of the English Drama and stage may spend two hours very profit- ably in viewing the large collection of theatrical portraits, the property of a member of the Club, and chiefly collected by the late Charles Matthews, the actor. Observe. — Male Portraits. — Nat Lee (curious) ; Doggett ; Quin ; Foote ; Henderson, by Gainsborough ; elder Colman, by Sir Joshua ; Munden, by Opie ; J. P. Kemble, drawing by Lawrence; Moody ; Elliston, drawing by Harlowe ; Bannister, by Russell; Tom Sheridan ; head of Garrick, by Zoffany ; King, by Richard Wilson, the landscape painter ; Emery ; elder Dibdin ; Mr. Powel and Family, by R. Wilson. Female Portraits. — Nell Gwyn (a namby-pamby face, but thought genuine) ; Mrs. Oldfield (half-length), by Kneller ; Mrs. Bracegirdle (three-quarter size); Mrs. Pritchard (half-length); Mrs. Cibber ; Peg Wofflngton (also a miniature three-quarter) ; Mrs. Abington, by Hiclcey ; Mrs. Siddons, by Harlowe ; Mrs. Yates ; Mrs. Billington ; Miss O'Neil, by Joseph ; Nancy Dawson ; Mrs. Siddons, drawing by Lawrence ; Mrs. Inch- bald, by Harlowe ; Miss Stephens ; Head of Mrs. Robinson, by Sir Joshua. Theatrical Subjects. — Joseph Harris, as Car- dinal Wolsey (the Strawberry Hill picture; Harris was one of Sir W. Davenant's players, and is commended by Downes for his excellence in this character) ; Anthony Leigh, as the Spanish Friar ; Colley Cibber, as Lord Foppington, by Grisoni; Griffin and Johnson, in The Alchemist, by P. Van Bleed-; School for Scandal (the Screen Scene), as originally cast ; Mrs. Pritchard, as Lady Macbeth, by Zoffany ; Mr. and Mrs. Barry, in Hamlet; Rich, in 1753, as Harlequin; Garrick, as Richard III., by the elder Norland ; King, as Touchstone, by Zoffany ; Weston, as Billy Button, by Zoffany ; King, and Mr. and Mrs. Badeley, in The Clandestine Marriage, by Zoffany ; Moody and Parsons, in the Committee, by Vander- gucht ; Garrick and Mrs. Cibber, by Zoffany ; Love, Law, and Physic (Mathews, Liston, Blanchard, and Emery), by Clint; Powell, Bensley, and Smith, by/. Mortimer ; Dowton, in The Mayor of Garratt ; busts, by Mrs. Siddons — of Herself and Brother. The pictures are on view every Wednesday, and the only mode of seeing them is the personal introduction of a member. The walls of the smoking-room were painted by Clarkson Stanfield, and David Roberts.
WHITTINGTON CLUB and METROPOLITAN ATHE- NAEUM, 189, Strand. A cheap club for men and women, founded (18-17) with a view to throw open to the humbler classes those increased physical comforts, and facilities for
222 clubs.
moral and intellectual education, which are the most attrac- tive characteristics of modern London life, but which, in the absence of individual wealth, associated numbers can alone command. The dining and refresh ment rooms (where mem- bers may obtain dinner and refreshments at prices calculated merely to cover expenses, and free of gratuities to waiters), reading, news, chess, and smoking rooms, are open from eight in the morning till night.
Classes arc established for the study and practice of languages, chemistry, vocal music, elocution, mathematics, historic and dramatic literature, discussion, fencing, dancing, &e. Weekly reunions are held for conversation, music, and other entertainments, to which members are free. Lectures are delivered every session, and Assemblies held on the first Monday of each month till May inclusive.
Subscriptions : — Gentlemen residing or having a place of business within seven miles of the General Post Office, two guineas yearly ; gentlemen not within the above district, one guinea yearly. Ladies' subscription : — half-a-guinea yearly. The subscriptions are also payable half-yearly or quarterly, at the option of members. No entrance fee.
The STEAKS. A society of noblemen and gentlemen, 24 in number, who, in rooms of their own, behind the scenes of the Lyceum Theatre, partake of a five o'clock dinner of beef-steaks every Saturday, from November till the end of June. They abhor the notion of being thought a club, dedi- cate their hours to "Beef and Liberty." and enjoy a hearty English dinner with hearty English appetites. The room they dine in, a little Escurial in itself, is most appropriately fitted up — the doors, wainscoting, and roof, of good old English oak, ornamented with gridirons as thick as Henry VII.'s Chapel with the portcullis of the founder. Every thing assumes the shape or is distinguished by the representation of their favourite implement, the gridiron* The cook is seen at his office through the bars of a spacious gridiron, and the original gridiron of the society (the sur- vivor of two terrific fires) holds a conspicuous position in the centre of the ceiliii-r. Every member has the power of inviting a friend, and pickles are not allowed till after a third helping. The Steaks had its origin in the Beaf-Steak Society, founded (1735) by John Rich, patentee of Covent-garden Theatre, and George Lambert, the scene-painter.
THE CITY. 223
THE CITY AND THE CITIZENS.
The entire civil government of the City of London, Within the walls and liberties, is vested, by successive charters of English sovereigns, in one Corporation, or body of citizens ; confirmed for the last time by a charter passed in the 23rd of George II. As then settled, the corporation consists of the Lord Mayor, 26 aldermen (including the Lord Mayor), 2 sheriffs for London and Middlesex conjointly, the common councilmen of the several wards, and the livery ; assisted by a recorder, chamberlain, common serjeant, comptroller, Remembrancer, town-clerk, &c.
The City is divided into Wards bearing the same relation to the^ City that the Hundred anciently did to the Shire. The Wards are 26 in number, each represented by an alder- man, and divided into precincts, each of which returns one common councilman. The common councilmen and Ward officers are elected annually, and the meetings of the alder- men and common council are called "Wardmotes.
The senior alderman represents Bridge- Ward without, and is popularly known as " the father of the City.*' The alder- men are chosen by such householders as are freemen and pay an annual rent of 101. ; each alderman is elected for life. The civic offices are chiefly filled by second-class citizens in point of station — the principal bankers and merchants uniformly declining to fill them, and paying, at times, heavy fines to be exempt from serving.
The City arms are the sword of St. Paul and the cross of St. George. The City was commonly called Cockaigne. The name Cockney — a spoilt or effeminate boy — one cockered and spoilt — is generally applied to people born within the sound of the bells of the church of St. Mary-le-Bow. Hugh Bigod, a rebellious baron of Henry III.'s reign, is said to have exclaimed —
" If I were In my Castell of Bungcie Vpon the water of "Wauenie, I wold not set a button by the King of Cockneie."
When a female Cockney was informed that barley did not grow, but that it was spun by housewives in the country — " I knew as much," said the Cockney, " for one may see the threads hanging out at the ends thereof." Minsheu, who compiled a valuable dictionary of the English language in the reign of James I., has a still older and odder mistake.
224 MANSION HOUSE.
" Cockney," he says, " is applied only to one born within the sound of Bow bells, i.e. within the City of London, which term came first out of this tale, that a citizen's son riding with his father out of Loudon into the country, and being a novice, and merely ignorant how corn or cattle increased, asked, when he heard a horse neigh, ' what the horse did I ' his father answered, 'the horse doth neigh;' riding farther he heard a cock crow, and said, ' doth the cock neigh too ] ' and therefore, Cockney by inversion thus, incock q. incoctus, i.e., raw or unripe in countrymen's affairs."
MANSION HOUSE, the residence of the Lord Mayor during his term of office, was built 173941, from the designs of George Dance, the City surveyor. Lord Burlington sent a design by Palladio, which was rejected by the City on the in- quiry of a Common Councilman : '• Who was Palladio.'— was he a Freeman of the city, and was he not a Roman Catholic 1 " It is said to have cost 71,000/., and was formerly disfigured by an upper story, familiarly known, east of Temple Bar, as " The Mare's (Mayor's) Nest." The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, and was so called, because in its original con- struction it exactly corresponded with the Egyptian Hall described by Vitruvius. With the exception of this Hall the rooms arc somewhat poor; and the decorations and furniture throughout, some of a century, and others of sixty years since. In the Egyptian Hall, on every Easter Monday, the Lord Mayor gives a great private banquet and ball. The Lord Mayor of London is chosen annually, every 29th of September, from the aldermen below the chair, who have served the office of Bueriff, and is installed in office every 9th of November, when " The Show " or procession between London and Westminster takes place. This, though somewhat pared of its former pomp, is a sight worth Beehlg. The procession ascends the Thames from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, and returns the same way. The car- riage in which the Lord Mayor rides to and from Blackfriars Bridge, and on all state occasions throughout his mayoralty, is a large lumbering carved and gilt coach, painted and de» signed by Cipriani, in J7f>7. Its original cost was 10661 8a. : and it is said, that an expenditure of upwards of lOOi. is every year incurred to keep it in repair. Here sits the chief magistrate in his red cloak, and collar of SS., with bis chap- lain, and his sword and mace bearers. The sword-bean r carries the sword in the pearl seal. hard, presented to the corporation by Queen Elizabeth upon opening the Royal Ex- change, and tne mace bearer the greal | old i i a given to the
GUILDHALL. 225
City by Charles I. He is sworn in at Westminster, in the morning of the 9th of November, before one of the Barons of the Exchequer, and then returns to preside at the great mayoralty dinner in Guildhall, at which some of her Majesty's ministers are invariably present. The annual salary of the Lord Mayor is 8000/. ; and the annual income of the corpora- tion of London, about 156,0002., arising from —
Coal and Corn Dues .... estimated at £ 60,881
Rents and Quit Rents ..... „ 56,896
Markets „ 17,126
Tolls and Duties „ 7,067
Brokers' Rents and Fines ... „ 3,892
Admissions to the Freedom of the City „ 4,518
Renewing Fines for Leases ... „ 723
£151,003 The Lord Mayor generally spends more than his income, but how the Corporation money is spent is not very well known. The administration of justice at the Central Crimi- nal Court in the Old Bailey costs about 12,1822. a-year; the City Police, about 10,1182. a-year; Newgate, about 92232. a-year ; the House of Correction, about 76022. a-year ; the Debtors' Prison, about 19552. a-year ; and the expenses of the Conservancy of the Thames and Medway (of which the Lord Mayor is Conservator), about 31172. a-year. The Lord Mayor, as the chief magistrate of the City, has the right of precedence in the City before all the Royal Family ; a right disputed in St. Paul's Cathedral by George IV., when Prince of Wales, but maintained by Sir James Shaw, the Lord Mayor, and confirmed at the same time by King George III. At the Sovereign's death he takes his seat at the Privy Council, and signs before any other subject. The entire City is placed in his custody, and it is usual on state occasions to close Temple Bar at the approach of the Sovereign, not in order to exclude her, but in order to admit her in form.
The GUILDHALL of the City of London is at the foot of EXHG Street, Cheapside, in the ward of Cheap, and was first built in 1111 (12th of Henry IV.), prior to which time the Courts were held in Aldermanbury. Of the original building there is nothing left but the stone and mortar of the walls ; two mutilated windows, one at each end ; a crypt, about half of the length of the present Hall, and a roof concealed by a fiat ceiling. The front towards King-street was seriously injured in the Great Fire, and the present mongrel sub- stitute erected in 1789, from the designs of the younger Dance. The sculpture in the Hall is of a very ordinary
Q
226
LORD MAYORS DINNER,
ehai-acter. Observe. — Pyramid ical monument to the great Lord Chatham, by the elder Bacon; the inscription by Edmund Burke. Monument to William Pitt, by Bubb ; the inscription by George Canning. Monument to Nelson, by Smith ; the inscription by R. B. Sheridan. Monument to Lord Mayor Beckford (the father of the author of Vathek), cut by Moore; the inscription upon it is his own speech spoken, or said to have been spoken, to King George III., at a period of great excitement. The statues of Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, and Charles I., at the upper or E. end of the Hall came from the old chapel called Guildhall Chapel, pulled down in 1822. In the Common Council Chamber, abutting from the Hall, obsen-e. — A standing statue of George III. (Chantrqfa first statue); fine bust, by the same artist, of Granville Sharp ; bust of Lord Nelson, by the Honourable Mrs. Darner ; The Siege of Gibraltar, by /. & Copley, R.A. (father of Lord Chancellor Lyndhurst) ; Death of Wat Tyler, by James Northcote, JR. A.; whole-length of Queen Anne, by Closterman ; Portraits of the Judges (Sir Matthew Hale and others) who sat at Clifford's Inn after the Great Fire, and arranged all the differences between landlord and tenant during the great business of rebuilding, by Michael Wri;/7it. The two giants in the Hall — part of the pageant of a Lord Mayor's Day — are known as Gog and Magog, though antiquaries differ about their proper appel- lation, some calling them Colbrand and Brandamore. others Corineus and Gogmagog. They were carved by JRichard Saunders, and set up in the Hall in 1708. A public dinner is given in this Hall, every 9th of November, by the new Lord Mayor for the coming year. The Hall on this occasion is divided into two distinct but not equal portions. The upper end or dais is called the Hustings (from an old Court of that name) ; the lower the Body of the Hall. Her Majesty's ministers and the great Law officers of tin- Crown invariably attend this dinner. At the upper end or dais the courses are all hot ; at the lower end only the turtle. The scene is well worth seeing — the loving-cup and the barons of beef carrying the mind kick to mediaeval times and manners. The following is the Bill of Faro :
250 Tureens of I>nl Turtle, on taininp 6 pints eadh.
200 Bottles of sherbet, fi Dishes of Fish. 30 Entrees. 1 B >iled Turkeys nnd Oysters. t Pullet*.
Kowls.
•It! Ditto of Cnpons. 6 Ditto of dipt. White's Selini" true India Curries.
60 French Plea. 60 Pigeon Plea, 68 Huns ornamented.
MI'S.
2 Quarters of IIonse-Lamh.
TEMPLE BAR.
227
6 Leverets. 80 Pheasants. 24 Geese.
40 Dishes of Partridges. 15 Dishes of "Wild Fowl.
2 Pea Fowls.
100 Pine Apples, from 2 to 3 lbs .
each. 200 Dishes of Hot-house Grapes. 250 Ice Creams.
50 Dishes of Apples. 100 Ditto of Pears.
60 Ornamented 8avoy Cakes.
75 Plates of Walnuts.
80 Ditto of dried Fruit and Pre- serves.
50 Do. of Preserved Ginger.
60 Do. of Rout Cakes and Chips.
46 Do. of Brandy Cherries.
2 Barons of Beef.
3 Rounds of Beef. 2 Stewed Rumps of Beef.
13 Sirloins, Rumps, and Ribs of
Beef. 6 Dishes of Asparagus.
60 Ditto of Mashed and other Po- tatoes.
44 Ditto of Shell Fish.
4 Ditto of Prawns. 140 Jellies.
50 Blancmanges.
40 Dishes of Tarts, creamed.
40 Dishes of Almond Pastry.
30 Ditto of Orange and other
Tourtes. 20 Chantilly Baskets. 60 Dishes of Mince Pies. 56 Salads.
THE REMOVES.
80 Roast Turkeys.
In a room abutting from the Hall is the " Guildhall or City of London Library," containing a large collection of early printed plays and pageants, &c, connected with the City ; antiquities, &c, discovered in making the excavations for the New Royal Exchange ; and in an appropriate case, Shakspeare's own signature, attached to a deed of conveyance, for which the Corporation of London gave, at a public sale, the sum of 147Z. In the crypt is a large red granite bowl, thus described in the Corporation journals of 1802 : —
" Major Cookson, commanding the Royal Artillery in Egypt, presents his respectful compliments to the Lord Mayor and Corporation of the city of London, and begs to acquaint them that he has taken the liberty to ship on board the Anacreon transport, Allan Massingham master, a large antique Egyptian red granite bowl, and which Major Cookson requests the Lord Mayor and Corporation will do him the honour to accept as a testimony of his respect and a memorial of the British achievements in Egypt. — Alexandria, Sept. 1, 1802."
TEMPLE BAR. A gateway of Portland stone, separating the Strand from Fleet-street, and the City from the shire; built by Wren (1670). On the E. side, in niches, are statues of Queen Elizabeth and James I., and on the W. side, those of Charles I. and Charles II., all by John Bushnell (d. 1701.) The gates are invariably closed by the City authorities when- ever the sovereign has occasion to enter the City, and are closed at no other time. The visit of the sovereign is, indeed, a rare occurrence — confined to a thanksgiving in St. Paul's for some important victory, or the opening of a public build- ing like the New Royal Exchange. A herald sounds a trumpet before the gate — another herald knocks — a parley
Q2
228 THE MONUMENT.
ensues — the gates are then thrown open, and the Lord Mayor for the time being makes over the sword of the City to the sovereign, who graciously returns it to the Mayor. The mangled remains of Sir Thomas Armstrong, the head and quarters of Sir William Perkins, and the quarters of Sir John Friend, were among the early ornaments of the present Bar. Armstrong was concerned in the Rye House Plot ; Perkins and Friend in the attempt to assassinate William III. The last ornaments of this character on the Bar were the heads of the victims of the fatal '"45." "I have been this morning at the Tower," Walpole writes to Montague, Aug. 16th, 1746, "and passed under the new heads at Temple Bar, where people make a trade of letting spying-glasses at a half- penny a look." " I remember," said Johnson, " once being with Goldsmith in Westminster Abbey. While he surveyed Poets' Corner, I said to him : —
' Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis.' When we got to the Temple Bar he stopped me, pointed to the heads upon it, and slily Avhispered me :
' Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis.' " Johnson was a Jacobite at heart. The last heads which remained on the Bar were those of Fletcher and Townley. "Yesterday," says a news-writer of the 1st of April, 1772, " one of the rebels' heads on Temple Bar fell down. There is only one head now remaining." The interior of the Bar is leased from the City, by Messrs. Child, the bankers, as a repository for the ledgers and cash books of their house.
The MONUMENT, on Fish Street Hill, is a fluted column of the Doric order, erected to commemorate the Great Fire of London (2 — 7 Sept. 1666). The design was made by Sir Christopher Wren ; the bas-relief on the pedi- ment carved by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the father of Colley Cibber; the four dragons at the four angles by Edward Pierce, for which he had, as Walpole tells us, 50 guineas a piece; the Latin inscriptions, written by Dr. Gale, Dean of York ; and the whole structure erected in six years (167 1-7 7), for the sum of 13,700*. It is 202 feet high, and stands at a distance of 202 feet from the house in Puddivg-lanc, in which the fire originated. It is hollow, and contains a staircase of 345 steps. Admittance from i> till dark ; charge, 3c/. each person. The urn on the top is 42 feet high. Wren's first design was a pillar invested by flames, sur- mounted by a phoenix ; "but, upon second thoughts," ho says, " I rejected it, because it will be costly, n< t easily
CITY COMPANIES. 229
understood at that height, and "worse understood at a distance, and lastly dangerous, by reason of the sail the spread wings will carry in the wind." He then designed a statue of Charles II., and showed it to that King for his approbation; but Charles, "not that his Majesty," says Wren, '-'disliked a statue, was pleased to think a large ball of metal, gilt, would be more agreeable ; " and the present vase of flames was in consequence adopted. The following inscription was at one time to be read round the plinth, beginning at the west : —
[\Y.]"THIS PILLAR WAS SET VP IN PERPETYALL REMEMBRANCE OF THAT MOST DREADFUL BURNING OF THIS PROTESTANT [s.] CITY, BEGUN AND CARRYED ON BY YE TREACHERY AND MALICE OF YE POPISH FACTIO, IN YE BEGINNING OF SEPTEM. IN YE YEAR OF [E.] OUR LORD 1666, IN ORDER TO YE CARRYING ON THEIR HORRID PLOTT FOR EXTIRPATING [N.] THE PROTESTANT RELIGION AND OLD ENGLISH LIBERTY, AND THE INTRODUCING POPERY AND SLAVERY."'
And the inscription on the north side concluded as follows : —
" SED FVROR PAPISTICVS QVI TAM DIRA PATRAVIT NONDUM RESTINGVITVR."
These offensive paragraphs formed no part of the original inscription, but were added in 1681, by order of the Court of Aldermen, when Titus Oates and his plot had filled the Cty with a fear and horror of the Papists. They were obliterated in the reign of James II., recut deeper than before in the reign of "William III., and finally erased (by an Act of Common Council) Jan. 26th, 1831.
Six persons have thrown themselves off the Monument : Green, a weaver, 1750 ; Cradock, a baker, 1788 ; Levi, a Jew, 1810; Moyse, the daughter of a baker, 1839; a boy, named Hawes, Oct., 1839 ; and a girl of 17, in 1842. This kind of death becoming popular, it was deemed advisable to encage and disfigure the Monument as we now see it. Goldsmith, when in destitute circumstances in London, filled for a short time the situation of shopman to a chemist, residing at the corner of Monument or Bell Yard, on Fish-stieet-hill.
The CITY COMPANIES of importance include " The Twelve Great Companies," so called, and about six others, though the total number of City Companies still existing is 82 : forty of whom, however, are without halls. Many of these are very rich, but very few exercise any of their old privileges. The following are the Halls of the Twelve Great Companies, arranged in the order of precedence ; and such was the importance attached to the Twelve, that it was formerly necessary for a citizen, if a mem- ber of any other than the Twelve Great Companies, to
230 MERCERS' HALL. GROCERS ' HALL.
quit his own Company on becoming an alderman, and enter into one of the Twelve. The precedence of the twelve is thought to have originated in the selection of twelve citizens to attend the Lord Mayor in his office of Butler at the Coronation Feast.
1. MERCERS' HALL and CHAPEL, Cheapside, between Ironmonger-lane and Old Jewry. The front, towards Cheapside, is a characteristic specimen of the enriched decoration employed in London immediately after the Great Eire. Observe. — Portrait of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul's School (his father was a mercer, and Colet left the manage- ment of the school to the Mercers' Company) ; portrait of Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange and a member of the Mercers' Company. Another eminent member was "Whittington, four times Lord Mayor of London. Thomas a Becket, the archbishop and saint, was born in a house on the site of the Mercers' Chapel, originally an hos- pital of St. Thomas of Aeon or Acars, founded by the sister of Thomas a Becket, and at the dissolution of religious houses bought by the Mercers and called The Mercers' Chapel. Guy, the bookseller and founder of the hospital which bears bis name, was bound apprentice to a bookseller, Sept. 2nd. ltiCO, "in the porch of Mercers' Chapel." That part of Cheapside adjoining the Mercers' Chapel was originally called the Mercery. Queen Elizabeth was free of the Mercers' Company, — King James I. was a Clothworker. The usual entrance to the Hall is in Ironmonger-lane.
2. GROCERS' HALL, in the Poultry, next No. 35. The Company was incorporated by Edward III., in 1345, under the title of " The Wardens and Commonalty of the Mystery of the Grocers of the City of London." They bad previously existed under the primitive name of Pepperers, and were subsequently united with the Apothecaries. The first Hall of the Grocers of which we have any account was built in 1 1-7. Their second was built after the Great Fire ; and their third, the present edifice (Thomas Leverton, architect), was com- menoed in 1798, and opened 1802. Their patron saint is St. Anthony. The City dinners to the Long Parliament were given in Grocers' Hall, and line the Governors and Company of the Bank of England held their Courts from the establishment of the Bank in 1604 to 1784. Sir Philip Sidney was free of the Croeers' Company, and tho Grocers rode in proeession at his funeral. Abol Drugger. the Tobaceo Man in Ben Jonson's Alchemist, is "free of the
DRAPERS HALL. — FISHMONGERS HALL. 231
Grocers." The most distinguished warden in the Company's list is Sir John Cutler, the penurious Cutler of the poet Pope, to whom the second Duke of Buckingham of the Villiers family made his memorable reply : —
" His Grace's fate sage Cutler could foresee, And well (he thought) advised him—' Live like me.' As well his Grace replied—' Like you, Sir John ? That I can do when all 1 have is gone.' " — Pope.
A portrait and portrait-statue of Cutler adorn the Hall of the Company.
3. DRAPERS' HALL and GARDENS, Throgmorton Street, City. The Company was incorporated in 1439, and settled in Throgmorton-street in 1541, on the attainder of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, whose house and garden- ground they acquired by purchase of Henry VIII.
" This house heing finished, and having some reasonable plot of ground left for a garden, he [Cromwell] caused the pales of the gardens adjoining to the north part thereof, on a sudden to be taken down ; twenty-two feet to be measured forth right into the north of every man's ground ; a line there to be di-aAvn, a trench to be cast, a foundation laid, and a high brick wall to be built. My father had a garden there, and a house standing close to his south pale ; this house they loosed from the ground, and bare upon rollers into my father's garden twenty-two feet, ere my father heard thereof; no warning was given him, nor other answer, when he spake to the surveyors of that work, but that their master, Sir Thomas, com- manded them so to do. No man durst go to argue the matter, but each man lost his land, and my father paid his whole rent, which was 6s. Qd. the year for that half which was left." — Stow, p. 68.
Cromwell's house was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; and the new Hall of the Company was erected in the suc- ceeding year from the designs of Jarman, architect of the second Royal Exchange. This is the present Hall — the street ornaments were added by the brothers Adam. Drapers'-gardens extended northwards as far as London Wall, and must have commanded formerly a fine view of Highgate and the adjoining heights. Ward commends them in his " London Spy " as a fashionable promenade " an hour before dinner time." Observe. — Portrait by Sir William Beechcy of Admiral Lord Nelson, and a curious picture, attributed to Zucchero, and engraved by Bartolozzi, of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son, James I., when four years old.
4. FISHMONGERS' HALL, at the north foot of London Bridge, erected 1831, on the site of the old Hall built after the Great Fire by Jarman, the City surveyor. The earliest extant charter of the Company is a patent of the 37th of Edw. III. ; while the acting charter of incorporation is dated
•232, GOLDSMITHS1 HALL.
2nd of James I. The London Fishmongers wore divided formerly into two distinct classes, "Stock-fishmongers'' and " Salt-fishmongers." Then Thames-street was known as " Stock-Fishmonger-row," and the old Fish-market of London was " ahovc bridge," in what is now called Old Fish-street- hill, in the ward of Queenhithe, not as now, "below bridge," in Thames-street, in the ward of Billingsgate. The Company- is divided into liverymen (about 350 in number), and free- men (about 1000). The ruling body consists of Si — the prime warden, 5 wardens, and 28 assistants. The freedom is obtained by patrimony, servitude, redemption (for defective service), or gift. The purchase-money of the freedom is 105/. Eminent Members. — Sir William Walworth, who slew Wat Tylt-r ; Js;iac Pennington, the turbulent Lord Mayor of the Civil War under Charles I. ; Dogget, the comedian and whig, who bequeathed a sum of money for the purchase of a " coat and badge " to be rowed for every 1st of August from the Swan at London Bridge to the Swan at Battersea, in remembrance of George I.'s accession to the throne. Observe. — A funeral pall or hearse-cloth of the age of Henry VIII., very fine, and carefully engraved by Shaic ; original drawing of a portion of the pageant exhibited by the Fishmongers' Company, Oct. 29th, 1616, on the occasion of Sir John Leman. a member of the Company, entering on the office of Lord Mayor of the City of London; statue of Sir William Wal- worth, by Edward Pierce; portraits of William III. and Queen, by Murray ; George II. and Queen, by Shaekhton ; Duke of Kent, by Bccchey ; Earl St. Vincent (the Admiral), by Beechcy ; and Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith.
5. GOLDSMITHS' HALL, Foster Lane, Cheapside, be- hind the general Post Office, built by Philip Hardwiek, R.A., and opened with a splendid banquet* July 15th, 1835. The Goldsmiths existed as a guild from a very early period, but were not incorporated before 1327, the 1st of Edward III. Eenry Fit/.-Alwin, the first Mayor of London, and who con- tinued Mayor for upwards of 24 years, was a goldsmith of the guild. The Goldsmiths' Company possess the privilege of assaying and stamping all articles of gold and silver manu- facture pursuant to acta L2 Geo. II. <■. 26, 24 Geo. III. c. 68) 38 Geo. III. c. 59, and 8 Vict, e. _,_>. The assays in one day are about L50, and arc conducted as follows : — They scrape a portion from every piece of plate manufactured, ami send it to their assay master, [f found true to the standard quan- tities, the articles are pnmfid ; if what is called ^^' " deceitful work," they are destroyed. These standard scrapings are
skinners' hall. 233
afterwards melted down and assayed by the Company, to whom they belong. This last assay is a sort of "pix" by the Company on the practice of its assayers. The Hall mark, Stamped on the several articles assayed, consists of the Sovereign's head, the royal lion, the leopard of the old royal arms of England, and the letter in the alphabet which marks the year of the Sovereign's reign when the assay was made. The allowance to the Company is 2\ per cent., and the receipts for stamping are paid over to the Inland Revenue Office. Observe. — The exterior of the Hall itself, a noble specimen of Mr. Hardwick's abilities — bold and well-propor- tioned in every part. On the staircase, full-length portraits of George IV., by Northcote ; William IV., by Slice ; George III, and his Queen, by Ramsay. In the Livery Tea Room, a Conversation-piece, by Hudson (Sir Joshua Reynolds's master). In the Committee Room, the original portrait, by Jansen, of a liveryman of the Company, the celebrated Sir Hugh Middelton, who brought the New River to London : portrait of Sir Martin Bowes, with the cup he bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company, standing on the table before him.; (Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk out of this cup at her coronation ; it is still preserved, and is engraved in Shaw's Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages) : Roman altar, exhibiting a full-length figure of Apollo, in relief, found in digging the foundations for the present Hall : full- length portraits of Queen Victoria, by Haytev ; Queen Adelaide, by Shee ; Prince Albert, by C. ; and marble busts, by Chantrey, of George III., George IV., and William IV.
6. SKINNERS' HALL, Dowgate Hill. The Company was incorporated in 1327, and the government vested in a master, 4 wardens, and 60 assistants, with a livery of 137 members. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire, and immediately rebuilt. The present front was added by an architect of the name of Jupp, about 1808. The mode of electing a master is curious. A cap of maintenance is carried into the Hall in great state, and is tried on by the old master, who announces that it will not fit him. He then passes it on to be tried by several next him. Two or three more misfits occur, till at last the cap is handed to the intended new master, for whom it was made. The wardens are elected in the same manner. The gowns of the livery- men were faced, in former times, with budge. Budge-row, in Watling-street, was so called of budge-fur, and of the skinners dwelling there. Observe. — Portrait of Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor of London in 1551, and founder of the
234 MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL.
large and excellent school at Tunbridge, of which the Skinners' Company have the patronage and supervision.
7. MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL, in Threadneedle Street, a little beyond Finch-lane, but concealed from the street by an ornamental row of merchants' houses. Company incorporated 1466. It has the honour to enumerate among its members several of the Kings of England and many of the chief nobility. The Hall was built, after the Great Fire, by Jarinan, the City architect, and is the largest of the Com- ] Allies' Halls. The Merchant Tailors' is the great Tory Com- pany, as the Fishmongers' is the great Whig Company. Here, in 184 , a grand dinner was given to Sir Robert Peel, at which the whole body of Conservative Members of the House of Commons were present, and Sir Robert announced the new principles of his party; and here, inl851, a dinner was given to Lord Stanley, at which 200 Members of the House of Commons were present, and Lord Stanley explained the prospects of the Protectionist party. A few portraits deserve inspection. Observe. — Head of Henry VIIL, by Paris Bordone ; head of Charles I. ; three-quarter portrait of Charles II. ; full-length of Charles II.; full-length of James II.; full-length of William III.; full-length of Queen Anne; full-lengths of George III. and his Queen, by Ramsay (same as at Gold- smiths' Hall) ; full-length of the late Duke of York, by Sir Thomas Lawrence; full-length, seated, of Lord Chancellor Eldon, by Briygs ; full-length of the Duke of Wellington, by Wilkie (with a horse by his side, very spirited but not very like) ; three-quarter of Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner. Also among the following portraits of old officers of the Company (artists unknown), Sir Thomas White, master, 1561, founder of St. John's College, Oxford. Stow, the chronicler, and Speed, the historian, were Merchant Tailors. Mode of Admission. — Order from the master; for the master's ad- dress, apply to the clerk, at his office in the Hall. When Dr. South was appointed Chaplain to this Company, he took fur the text of his inauguration sermon, " A remnant of all shall be saved."
8. HABERDASHERS' HALL, at Ktaimn*. L.vm: end, ChiahudBj behind the Post-officv, the Hall of the Haber- dashere, the eighth on the list of the Twelve Great Oonv peniee. Tho Hall was destroyed in the Greet Fire, and rebuilt, as we now see it, it is said, by Sir Christopher Wren ; but it is more in Jarman's styh\ The Hall contains a mis- cellaneous collection of portraits, but not one of any conse-
vintners' hall. 235
quence or merit. The Haberdashers were originally called Hurrers and Milaners, and were incorporated 26th of Henry VI.
9. SALTERS' HALL, Oxford Court, St. Swithin's Lane* the Hall of the Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of the Art or Mystery of Salters. The present Hall was built by Henry Can*, architect, and opened 1827. Oxford-court, in which the Hall is situated, was so called from John de Vere, the sixteenth Earl of Oxford of that name, who died in 1562, and was originally the site of the inn or hostel of the Priors of Tortington, in Sussex. Empson and Dudley, notorious as the unscrupulous instruments of Henry VII.'s avarice in the later and more unpopular years of his reign, lived in Walbrook, in " two fair houses," with doors leading into the garden of the Prior of Tortington (now Salters'-garden). " Here they met," says Stow, " and consulted of matters at their pleasures." Observe. — Portrait of Adrian Charpentier, painter of the clever and only good portrait of Roubiliac, the sculptor.
10. IRONMONGERS' HALL, on the north side of Fenchurch Street. The present Hall was erected by Thomas Holden, architect, whose name, with the date 1748, appears on the front. The Ironmongers were incorporated for the first time in 1464 :— 3rd of Edward IV. Observe. — Portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by Gainsborough ; presented by Lord Hood, on his admission into this Com- pany in 1783, after the freedom of the City had been con- ferred upon him for his eminent naval services. The great Banquetting-hall has recently been decorated in the Eliza- bethan style, by Jackson and Sons, in papier mache and carton pierre.
11. VINTNERS' HALL, on the river side of Upper Thames Street. It is a modern building, of small preten- sions, but the Company is of great antiquity. In the Court- room are full-length portraits of Charles II., James II., Marie D'Este, and Prince George of Denmark. The patron saint of the Company is St. Martin, and one of the churches in the ward of Vintry was called St. Martin's-in-the-Vintry.
12. CLOTHWORKERS' HALL, on the east side of Mincing Lane, Fexciiukch Street. A small building, principally of red brick, the Hall of the Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of Freemen of the Art and Mystery of Clothworkers of the City of London. King James I. in-
■231} stationers' hall.
corporated himself into the Clothworkcrs, as men dealing in the principal and noblest staple ware of all these Islands. " Beeing in the open hall, he asked who was master of the company, and the Lord Mayor answered, Syr William Stone; nnto whom the King said, ' Wilt thou make me free of the Clothworkcrs ? ' ' Yea,' quoth the master, ' and thinkc myselfe a happy man that I live to see this day.' Then the King said, ' Stone, give me thy hand, and now I am a Cloth- worker.' " Pepys, who was Master in 1677, presented a richly-chased silver cup, called " The Loving Cup," still in the possession of the Company, and used on all festive occasions.
Of the other Halls of Companies the most important are —
ArOTHECARIES' HALL, Water- Lane, BlackfrTars. A brick and stone building, erected in 1670 as the Dispen- sary and Hall of the Incorporated Company of Apothecaries.
" Nigh where Fleet Ditch descends in sable streams, To wash his sooty Naiads in the Thames, There stands a structure on a rising hill, "Where tyros take their freedom out to kill."
Garth, The Dispensary.
The Grocers and the Apothecaries were originally one Com- pany ; but this union did not exist above eleven years, King James I., at the suit of Gideon Delaune (d. 1659), his own apothecary, granting (1617) a charter to the Apothecaries as a separate Company. In the Hall is a small good portrait of James L, and a contemporary statue of Delaune. In 1687 commenced a controversy between the College of Physicians and the Company of Apothecaries, the heats and bicker- ings of which were the occasion of Garth's poem of The Dispensary. The Apothecaries have a Botanic Garden at Chelsea ; and still retain the power of granting certificates to competent persons to dispense medicines. In the Hall is a well-supported retail-shop, for the sale of unadulterated medicines.
STATIONERS' HALL, Stationers' Hall Court. LuDOatl SlLL. The Hall of the "Master and Keepers or Wardens and Commonalty of tin- Mysl r\ or Art of the Stationers of the City of London," the only London Company entirely restricted to the members of its own croft The Company was incorpo- rated in the reign of Philip and Mary, and the present Hall erected on the site of Bargaveny House, belonging to Henry Nevill, sixth Lord Abergavenny (d. L587). The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, when the Stationers of
BARBER SURGEONS' HALL. 237
London (the greatest sufferers on that occasion) lost property, it is said, to the amount of 200,000Z. Observe. — Portraits of Prior and Steele (good) ; of Richardson, the novelist, Master of the Company in 1754, and of Mrs. Richardson, the novelist's wife (both by Highmore); of Alderman Boydell, by Graham; of Vincent Wing, the astrologer; Wing died in 1668, but his name is still continued as the compiler of the sheet almanacks of the Stationers' Company. The Stationers' Company, for two important centuries in English history, had nearly the entire monopoly of learning. Printers were obliged to serve their time to a member of the Company, and every publication, from a Bible to a ballad, was required to be " Entered at Stationers' Hall." The service is now un- necessary, but under the recent Copyright Act, the proprietor of every published work is required, for his own protection, to register in the books of the Stationers' Company its title — owner and date of publication, in order to secure it from piracy. The fee is 5s. The number of Freemen is between 1000 and 1100, and of the livery, or leading persons, about 450. The Company's capital is upwards of 40,000?., divided into shares varying in value from 401. to 4001. each. The great treasure of the Company is its register of works entered for publication, commencing in 1557, and now in course of publication by the Shakespeare Society. The only publications which the Company continues to make are almanacks, of which they had once the entire monopoly, and a Latin Gradus. Almanack clay at Stationers' Hall (every 22nd of November, at 3 o'clock) is a sight worth seeing, for the bustle of the porters anxious to get off with early supplies. The celebrated Bible of the year 1632, with the important word "not" omitted in the seventh commandment, "Thou shalt not commit adultery," was printed by the Stationers' Company. The omission was made a Star-Chamber matter of by Archbishop Laud, and a heavy fine laid on the Company for their neglect.
At the Hall of the Armourers' Company, Coleman-street, is a noble collection of mazers, hanaps, and silver gilt cups, not to be matched by any other company in London. At Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell-street, City, is the fine picture, by Holbein, of Henry VIII. presenting the charter to the Company, the most important work now existing of Hol- bein's painting in England. At the same Hall arc two silver gilt cups, one of great beauty, presented by Henry VIII. ; the other, scarcely inferior, by Charles II. At Weavers' Hall, 22, Basinghall-strcet, is an old picture of William Lee, the Cambridge scholar, who is said to have invented the
238 AUTILLKRV OOXPAYT,
loom for weaving stockings : the picture represents him pointing out his loom to a female knitter. At Saddlers' Hall, Cheapside, is a fine Funeral Pall of 15th century work, inferior, however, to the Pall at th<> Rah mongers'. At (.'Aitri:NTi.i:s' ll.u.r., ( !arp< liters' Buildings, London Wall, are four paintings in distemper, of a date as early as the reign of Edward IV., with the ancient caps and crowns of the Miter and Warden*. At I'.untku-Stai neks' Hall, Little Tower-street, is a portrait of Camden, the antiquary (the son of a painter-stainer*. wd a Loving Cup, bequeathed by him to the Company, end used every St. Luke's Day.
The ARTILLERY GROUND (Fmst kv Bquarb, weal
side.) lia> been the exrrei.-ini: Hound since 1622 of the Honourable Artillery Company of the City of London. The old City Trained Band was established 1 585. during the fear of a Spanish invasion ; new formed in 1610, and a weekly exercise in arms was adhered to with strict military discipline. When the Civil War broke out, the citizens of London (then carefully trained to war) took up arms against the King ; and on all occasions, more especially at the battle of Newbury, behaved with admirable conduct and courage. Since the Restoration, they have led a peaceable life, and, except in 1780, when their promptness preserved the Bank of England, have only been called out on state occasions, such as the public thanksgiving (1705) for the victories of the Duke of Marlborough, when Queen Anne went to St. Paul's, and the Westminster Militia lined the streets from St. James's to Temple Bar. and the city Trained bands from Temple Bar to St. Paul's. The musters and marchings of this most celebrated Company are admirably ridiculed by Fletcher in The Knight 01 the
Burning Pestle ; and the manner in which their orden were issued, by Steele, in No. 41 of the Tatler. I need hardly add, that John Gilpin was a Train-band Captain.
'• A Train-band Captain <>ko was he < >f ounotu London town."
Frincc Albert is the Colonel of the Company, and tho force U about -50 men.
EMINENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 23(J
EMINENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON.
St. Thomas a Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, behind the Mercers' Chapel in the Poultry.
Sir Thomas More, Lord Chancellor, in Milk-street, Cheap- side.
Lord Bacon, Lord Chancellor, in York House, on the site of Buckingham-street in the Strand.
Great Lord Stafford, in Chancery-lane.
The great Earl of Chatham, in the parish of St. James's, Westminster.
William Camden, author of " Britannia," in the Little Old Bailey, near St. Sepulchre's Church.
John Stow, the historian of London.
Chaucer, the father of English Poetry.
Spenser, author of the Fairie Queene, in East Smithfield, near the Tower it is said.
Ben Jonson, in Hartshox-ne-lane, near Northumberland- street, Charing-cross, it is said.
Milton, in Bread-street, Cheapside, where his father was a scrivener at the sign of the Spread Eagle.
Cowley, in Fleet-street, near Chancery-lane, where his father was a grocer.
Pope, in Lombard-street, where his father was a linen-draper.
Gray, at No. 41, Coruhill, where his father was a linen- draper.
Lord Byron, at No. 24, Holies-street, Cavendish-square, where his mother was in lodgings.
Inigo Jones, in or near Cloth Fair, Smithfield, where hi father was a clothworker.
Hogarth, in Bartholomew-close, Smithfield, where his father was a corrector of the press to the booksellers in Little Britain.
PENH, the founder of Pennsylvania, in the house of his father the Admiral, on Great Tower-hill, on the E. side, within a court adjoining to London Wall
Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, in the Piazza, Covent-garden.
Horace Walpole, in Arlington-street, Piccadilly.
240
EMINENT PERSONS BURIED IN LONDON.
EMINENT PERSONS BURIED IN LONDON AND ITS IMMEDIATE VICINITY.
KINGS and QUEENS:—
Edward the Confessor .
Edward I.
Edward III.
Henry V.
James IV. of Scotland
Anne Boleyn . Lady Jane Grey . Queen Elizabeth .M ary Queen of Scots .
"Westminster Abbey
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
St. Michael's, "Wood-street,
Cheapside. St. Peter' s-ad-Vincula, Tower Ditto.
Westminster Abbey. Ditto.
SOLDIERS:—
Ayiner de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, Westminster Abbey.
Sir Francis Verc
Lord Herbert of Cherbury
General "Wolfe
Sir Thomas Picton
SEAMEN :—
Bir Walter Raleigh Nelson .... C'ollingwood
Ditto.
St. (iilos's-in-the-Fields. ( ireenwich.
Chapel of Bayswater Burying- ground.
St. Margaret's, "Westminster.
St. Paul's.
Ditto.
HISTORICAL CHARACTERS:—
Cromwell, Earl of Essex . . .St. Peter' s-ad-Vincula, Tower.
Protector Somerset Ditto
Viliiers,lst&2d Dukes of Buckingham, Westminster Abbey.
Duke of Monmouth . . . . st. Peter's-ad-Vincnla, Tower,
STATESMEN:— Sir Thomas .More Sir William Temple Savile, Lord Halifax . Bolingbroke .... Chatham .... Pitt
Chelsea Old Church. Westminster Abbey.
Ditto.
Battersca Church.
Canning
DIVINES:—
Miles Coverdale . . . . , I'.i hop Andrews . . . . , Fuller, author of •• Wortnie " .
Barrow
South
Archbishop Tillotsqn . . . ,
Bishop Burnet
v i "ii, antiior of •• Fasti and Fes-
ti\ ah"
i . founder of the Quakers
P ley
"Westminster Abbey.
st. Magnus. London Bridge. st. Saviour's, Bouthwark. Cranford, near Hounslos . Westminster Abbey. Ditto.
St. Lawrence, .lew ry.
st. James's, ClerkenweH.
St. George the .Martyr, Queen's
Sonars. BuuhlU-fields Burial-ground. Wesley's Chapel, City-road.
BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS.
241
DIVINES, continued :-
Isaac Watts Rev. John Newton
Swcdenbort
Banhill-fields.
St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard- street.
Swedish Church, Prince's- sqnare, Ratdiff Highway.
POETS, &c:—
Chaucer "Westminster Abbey.
< lower St. Saviour's, Southwark.
Spenser .
Sir Philip Sydney
Chapman
Ben Jonson .
Beaumont
Fletcher
Massinger
Kit Marlowe
Milton
Cowley .
Butler
Otway .
Dry den
Pope
Congrevc .
G ay
Prior
Addison
Thomson .
Dr. Johnson
Chatterton
It. B. Sheridan
Campbell .
Tom Dibdin
MUSICIANS:—
Purcell Handel .
. "Westminster Abbey. . Site of St. Paul's. . St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. . "Westminster Abbev. . Ditto.
. St. Saviour's, Southwark. . Ditto.
. Deptford Old Church. . St. Giles's, Cripplegate. . "Westminster Abbey. . St. Paul's, Coven t-garden. . St. Clement's Danes. . "Westminster Abbey. . Twickenham. . Westminster Abbey. . Ditto. . Ditto. . Ditto. . Richmond. . Westminster Abbey. . Site of Farringdon Market. . Westminster Abbey. . Ditto.
. St. Martin's-in-the-Fields Bu- rial-ground, Camden-town
Westminster Abbey. Ditto.
NOVELISTS :- Bunyan . De Foe . Richardson
Ftcrne . Goldsmith
ACTORS and ACTRESSES Tarlton .... Burbadge .... Ned Alleyu . Betterton .... Colley Cibber
Garrick . Mrs. Oldficld Mrs. Bracegirdle
Mrs. Siddons
Bunhill fields.
Ditto.
St. Bride's Church, Fleet- street.
Bays water Burial-ground.
Ground of Temple Church, Fleet-street.
. St. Leonard's, Shored itch.
. Ditto.
. Dulwich College.
. Westminster Abbey.
. Danish Church, SVellclose
square. . Westminster Abbey. . Ditto. . Ditto. . Old Paddington Churchyard.
242
BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS.
PHYSICIANS and SURGEONS Sir Hans Sloane Dr. Mead .... Cheseldcn .... John Hunter
Sir Astley Cooper
PHILOSOPHERS :—
Sir Isaac Newton .
LAWYERS :—
Plowden
Sir William Follett .
HISTORIANS and ANTIQUARIES :- Fox, author of "Acts and Monuments"
Camden
Stow
Spelman
Archbishop Usher Oldys . Ritson Btrutt .
PAINTERS :— Holbein .
Van Dyck
Sir Peter Lely .
Vandervelde
Sir Joshua Reynolds
Hogarth
Gainsborough .
Stothard.
Sir Thomas Lawrence
SCTLPTORS:—
Grinling Gibbons
Roubiliac
Flaxman
ARCHITECTS :— Inigo Jones
Sir Christopher Wren
ENGRAVERS:— Hollar .
Woollett Strange . William Sharp
ENGINEERS:— John Rennie .
EMINENT FOREIGNERS:
(asaubon
St. Kvremont .
General Paoli
Chelsea Churchyard (Old). Westminster Abbey. Chapel of Chelsea College. St. Martin's - in - the - Fields
vaults. Chapel of Guy's Hospital.
Westminster Abbey.
Temple Church. Temple Church.
St. Giles's-in-the-Fields.
Westminster Abbey.
St. Andrew Undershaft, Lead-
enhall-street. Westminster Abbev. Ditto.
St. Bennet, Paul's-wharf. Btinhill-fields. St.Andrew's-in-the-Wardrobe
St. Catherine Cree, Leaden- hall-street. Site of St. Paul's. St. Paul's, Covent-garden. St. James's, Piccadilly. St. Paul's.
Chiswick Churchyard. Kew Churchyard. Bunhill-fields. St. Paul's.
St. Paul's, Covent-garden. St. Martm's-in-the-Fields. St. Giles's Burial-ground at St. Pancras.
St. Bennet, Paul's-wharf. St. Paul's.
St. Margaret's, AVestminster
(churchyard). Old St. Pancras Churchyard. St. Paul's, Covent-garden. Chiswick Churchyard.
St. Paul's.
Westminster Abbey.
Ditto.
Old St. Pancras Churchyard.
BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 243
MISCELLANEOUS:-
Will Somers, Henry VIII.'s jester . St. Leonard s.
Old Parr Westminster Abbey.
Hakluyt Ditto.
Capt. John Smith, author of " History
of Virginia " . . . . . St. Sepulchre's, Snow-hill. Heminge and Cundall . . . . St. Mary's, Aldermanbury.
Roger Ascham St. Sepulchre's, Snow-hill.
Andrew Marvell St. Giles' s-in-the-Fields.
Pepys St. Olave's, Hart-street.
Dr. Busby Westminster Abbey.
LaBelle Stuart Ditto.
Nell Gwyn St. Martin s-in-the-Fields.
Duchess of Cleveland .... Chiswick.
Judge Jefferies St. Mary's, Aldermanbury.
Colonel Blood New Chapel-yard, Broadway,
Westminster. Trusty Dick Penderell .... St.Giles's-in-the-FieldChurch-
yard.
Dr. Sacheverel St. Andrew's, Holhorn. _
Ludowick Muggleton . . . . Bethlehem Churchyard, Liver- pool-street, City.
Jack Sheppard St. Martin s-in-the-Fields.
Joe Miller . ... St. Clement's Danes Yard, m
Portugal-street.
Cocker St. George's, Southwark.
Hoyle Marylebone Churchyard, Pad-
dington. Lady Mary Wortley Montague . . South Audley-street Chapel,
Jack Wilkes Ditto.
Lord George Gordon . . . . St. James s, Hampstead-road. Joanna Southcott . . . .St. John's Chapel Burial- ground, St. John's Y ood.
John Home Tooke Ealing.
Rev. Sydney Smith .... Kensal Green.
PUBLIC BENEFACTORS:- .
William Caxton St. Margaret's, Westminster.
Sir Thomas Gresham . . . .St. Helen's, Bishopsgate.
CELEBRATED CHARACTERS DURING THE CIVIL WAR.
1637—1649:— , m , _. .
Charles I St. George's Chapel, Yv indsor.
Lord Clarendon Westminster Abbey.
Prince Rupert 5itt0^ a ™ , r., ^
Attorney-General Noy . . . Brentford Old Church.
Cleveland St. Michael's, College-hill.
Alexander Brome .... Lincoln's-Inn Chapel.
Rush worth St. George s, Southwark
Cromwell 1 Under Tyburn Gallows,
Bradshaw > Hyde Park end of Edg-
Ireton \ ware-road.
Earl of Essex Westminster Abbey.
Fleetwood Bunhill-fields.
Monk Westminster Abbey.
pym Ditto.
Sir John Eliot St. Peter's-ad-Vincula, Tower.
Seiden Temple Church.
Blake "(Pit in St. Margaret's Church- May ' J yard> Westminster.
R 2
244 HOUSES OF EMINENT TERSONS.
CELEBRATED CHARACTERS DURING THE CIVIL WAB,
1637—1649, continued:— Lilburn Bethlehem Churchyard, Liver- pool-street.
Richard Baxter Christ Church, Newgate-street.
Bdmund Calamy St. Mary Aldermary.
HOUSES IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS HAVE LIVED.
'*' THERE is a custom on the Continent well worthy of notice," says the elegant-minded author of the Pleasures of Memory. " In Boulogne, we read as we ramble through it, 'Ici est mort l'Autcur de Gil Bias;' in Rouen, 'lei est ne Pierre Corncille;' in Geneva, 'Ici est ne Jean Jacques Rousseau;' and in Dijon there is the 'Maison Bossuet;' in Paris, the ' Quai Voltaire.' Very rare are such memorials among us ; and yet wherever we meet with them, in what- ever country they were, or of whatever age, we should surely say that they wei'e evidences of refinement and sensibility in the people. The house of Pindar was spared
When temple and tower Went to the ground ;
and its ruins were held sacred to the last. According to Pausanias they were still to be seen in the second century."' Concurring in this sentiment to its fullest extent, I have compiled the following list of eminent persons who have lived in London, and whose houses are known.
Great Duke of Marlborough died in Marlborough House, Pall-mall.
Duke of Schomberg. in Schomberg House, Pall-mall.
Great Lord Clive (lied in No. 45, Berkeley-square.
Lord Nelson lived at No. 141, New Bond-street, after the battle of Cape St. Vincent and the Expedition to Tcnerifte, where he lost his arm.
Sir Thomas Picton, who fell at Waterloo, at No. 21. Edward-street, Portman-squarc. Here his body was brought after Waterloo.
Lord Hill, the hero of A 1 marc/, in the Large house, S.W. corner of Belgravc-square.
Lord Lynedoch, the hero of Barossa, died at No. 12, Stratton-Btreet, Piccadilly. i Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, in Shui\es.bury House, cast bide of Aldersgate-strcet.
HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 245
Lord Chancellor Somers, in the large house N.W. corner of Lincolu's-Inn-fields.
Duke of Newcastle, prime minister in the reign of George II., in the same house.
Lord Mansfield, when only Mr. Murray, at No. 5, King's- Benck-walks, Temple.
Lord Chancellor Cowper, at No. 13, Great George-street, Hanover-square.
The polite Earl of Chesterfield died in Chesterfield House, May Fair.
Lord Chancellor Thurlow, at No. 45, Great Ormond-street, where the Great Seal was stolen from him.
Lord Chancellor Eldon, at No. 6, Bedford-square, and W. corner of Hamilton-place, Piccadilly, in which he died.
Sir Samuel Romilly died at No. 21, Russell-square.
Edmund Burke, at No. 37, Gerard-street, Soho.
R. Brinsley Sheridan died at No. 7, Saville-row, Burling- ton-gardens.
Sir Robert Peel died at his house in Privy -gardens, White- hall.
Milton lived in a garden-house in Petty France, now No. 19, York-street, Westminster.
Dryden died at No. 43, Gerard-street, Soho.
Prior lived in Duke-street, Westminster, the house facing Charles-street.
Southerne lodged in Tothill-street, Westminster, facing Dartmouth-street. It was an oilman's in his time, and is still.
Addison died in Holland House, Kensington.
Byrou was born in No. 24, Holies-street, Cavendish -square, and spent the short honeymoon of his married life at No. 139, Piccadilly. In the rooms of the Albany, he wrote Lara.
Sir Walter Scott put up at Miss Dumergue's, corner of White Horse-street, Piccadilly, and at Mr. Lockhart's, 24, Sussex-place, Regent's Park. He lay insensible at the St. James's Hotel, in Jermyn-street, a few months previous to his death.
Shelley lodged at No. 41, Hans-place, Sloane-street.
Keats wrote his magnificent sonnet on Chapman's Homer, &c, in the second floor of No. 71, Cheapside.
The last London residence of Campbell, author of " The Pleasures of Hope," was at No. 8, Victoria-square.
Crabbe lodged at No. 37, Bury -street, St. James's.
Johnson completed his Dictionary in the garret of No. 17, Gough-square, Fleet-street, and died at No. 8, Bolt-court, Fleet-street.
Boswell died at No. 47, Great Portland-street, Oxford-st.
24G HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS.
Goldsmith died at No. 2, Brick-court, Temple, up two pair of stairs, and on the right as you ascend the staircase.
Gibbon wrote his Defence of his Decline and Fall, at No. 7, Bentinck-street, Manchestei'-square.
Horace Walpole lived at No. 5, Arlington-street, Piccadilly, and died at Xo. 11, Berkeley-square.
Garrick died in the centre house of the A del phi-terrace.
Mrs. Siddons lived at No. 49, Great Marlborough-street, and died in Siddons House at the top of Upper Baker-street, Regent's Park (right hand side).
Edmund Kean lived at No. 12, Clarges-street, when at the height of his fame.
Archbishop Laud, Archbishop Sancroft, Archbishop Til- lotson, at Lambeth Palace.
Archbishop Leighton died in the Bell Inn, "Warwick -lane, Newgate-street.
Bishop Burnet died in St. John's-square, Clerkenwell.
Richardson, author of Clarissa Harlowe, lived in Salisbury- square, Fleet-street.
Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy, died at No. 41, Old Bond-street.
Charles Lamb, at No. 4, Inner-Temple-lanc.
Sir Isaac Newton lived in St. Martin's-street, S. side of Leicester-square. His Observatory is still to be seen on the top of the house.
Sir Joseph Banks lived and held his parties at No. 32, Soho-square, now the Linnaian Society.
Priestley was living in Lansdowne House, Berkeley-square, when he made the discovery of oxygen.
Brunei perfected his block machinery at
Francis Baily weighed the earth at No. 37, Tavistock-placc, Tiivistock-square — the house stands isolated in a garden.
Linacre lived on the site of No. 5, Knightrider-street, Doctor's Commons — the house was bequeathed by him to the College of Physicians, and is still possessed by them.
Dr. Arbuthnot, in Dover-street, Piccadillv, second door, W. side.
Dr. Mead, at No. 49, Great Ormond-strect.
Dr. .Ji'iiner, at No. It, Hertford-street, May Fair.
Dr. Baillie died at No. 2f>, Cavendish-square.
Mr. Alicinethy died at No. 14, Bedford-row.
Sir Astley Cooper died at Xo. 2. New street. Spring-gardens.
dialing Gibbons, W. side of Bow-street* Covrnt garden, N. corner of Kings-court.
Hogarth, in Leicester-square, now northern half of Sablonidre Eotei
HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 247
Sir Joshua Reynolds, centre of W. side of Leicester-square.
Gainsborough, in western half of Schomberg House, Pall- mall.
Flaxman died at No. 7, Buckingham-street, Fitzroy-square. His studio still remains.
Chantrey died in Eccleston-street, Pimlico, corner of Lower Belgrave-place.
Stothard died at No. 28, Newman-street, Oxford-street.
Wilkie painted his Rent Day at No. 84, Upper Portland-st., and his Chelsea Pensioners at No. 24, Lower Phillimore-place.
Sir Thomas Lawrence died at No. 65, Russell-square.
Handel lived in Burlington House, Piccadilly, with the Earl of Burlington, the architect.
Carl Maria Von Weber died at No. 91, Upper Portland- street.
Watteau lived with Dr. Mead at No. 49, Great Ormond-st.
Orleans Egalite, at No. 31, South-street, Grosvenor-square.
Madame de Stael, at No. 30, Argyll-street, Regent-street.
Blucher, when hi England in 1814, in St. James's Palace, in the dark brick house, on your right as you pass the narrow opening from St. James's to Stafford House.
Charles X. of France at No. 72, South-Audley-street.
Louis Philippe's last London lodging was at Cox's Hotel, in Jermyn-street.
11 Guizot, at No. 21, Pelham-crescent, Brompton.
Talleyrand, at the house of the French Embassy, N. side of Manchester-square.
Joseph Buonaparte and Lucien Buonaparte, at No. 23, Park-crescent, Portland-place.
Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, in Norfolk-street, Strand, last house on left hand side.
" Honest Shippen," half way down E. side of Norfolk- street, Strand.
Jonathan Wild, No. 68, Old Bailey.
Jeremy Bentham, Queen-square House, Westminster — the long low house looking upon St. James' s-park.
Rev. Sydney Smith died at No. 56, Green-st., Grosvenor-sq.
Daniel O'Connell, at No. 29, Bury-street, during the struggle (1829) for Catholic Emancipation.
Louis Napoleon (the President of the French Republic) lodged at No. 3, King-street, St. James's-square ; this was his last London lodging.
Louis Blanc, on his flight from France in 1848, took up his lodgings at No. 126, Piccadilly.
Jenny Lind lived in a small garden-house in Brompton- lane, Old Brompton, near the Gloucester-road.
248 STREETS AND EMINENT PERSONS.
STREETS (HOUSES UNKNOWN OR NOT STANDING) IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS HAVE LIVED.
Sir Thomas More lived at Chelsea, in a house immediately facing the present Battersea Bridge. He is buried in Chelsea old Church.
Charles V. of Spain was lodged in the Blackfriars.
Shakspeare is said to have lived on the Bankside, in South- wark, near the Globe Theatre. He -was possessed of a house in Ireland-yard, Blackfriars.
Spenser died for lack of bread in King-street, Westminster, and was buried in Westminster Abbey.
Izaak Walton lived in Chancery-lane, in the 7th house on the left hand as you walk from Fleet-street to Holboru.
Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, lived,
Oliver Cromwell lived in Long-acre ; in King-street, West- minster ; in the Cockpit, now the site of the Treasury ; and at Whitehall, of which the Banqueting-house only remains.
Van Dyck died in the Blackfriars, and was buried in St. Paul's Cathedral.
Vandervclde the younger lived in Piccadilly, over against the church of St. James, in which he is buried.
Peter the Great lived in a house (Pepys's) on the site of the last house on the W. side of Buckingham-street, Strand, and frequented the Czar of Muscovy Public House, 48, Great Tower-street.
Voltaire, when in London, in 1726, lodged at the White Peruke in Maiden-lane.
Andrew Marvcll was living in Maiden-lane when he refused a bribe from the Lord Treasurer Danby.
Nell Gwyn died in a house on the site of No. 70, Pall-mall.
Locke dates the dedication of his " Essay on Human Understanding " from Dorset-court, Fleet-street.
Addison lived, when a bachelor, in St. James's-place, St. James's-strcet, where it is said Mr. Rogers, the poet, now lives.
Fielding lived in Bow-street, Covent-gardcn, in a house on the site of the present Police-office.
Butler, author of Hudibras, died in Rose-street, Covent- gardcn, and was buried in the churchyard of St. Paul's, Covent-garden.
Benjamin Franklin worked as a journeyman printer in Bartholomew-close, West Smithfield. He lived also at No. 7, Craven-street, Strand.
SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 249
John Wilkes ( Wilkes and Liberty) lived in Prince's-court, Great George-street, Westminster.
Lady Mary Wortley Montague died in Great George-street, Hanover-square.
General Paoli died (1807) " at his house near the Edgeware- road," and was buried in old St. Pancras Church vard.
PLACES AND SITES (NOT ALREADY MENTIONED)
CONNECTED WITH REMARKABLE EVENTS,
OR OTHERWISE DISTINGUISHED.
London Wall : remains to be seen off Ludgate-hill, Tower- hill, and in the churchyard of St. Giles's, Cripplegate.
London Stone : which Jack Cade struck with his staff, in outer wall of the church of St. Swithin Cannon-street, Wat- ling-street.
Smithfield : scene of Wat Tyler's death ; of Wallace's execution at the Elms ; of Bartholomew Fair ; and of the dreadful burnings in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Mary.*
Charing-cross ; Statue of Charles I. by Le Soeur : site of the last cross erected by Edward I. to Queen Eleanor, as the last place at which the coffin rested on its way to Westminster Abbey. . Site also of the execution of the Regicides.
St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell, and the Knights of St. Johu ; Cave, Dr. Johnson, and The Gentleman's Magazine.
Tabard Inn, Southwark : the starting-place of Chaucer's Canterbury Pilgrims.
Friday-street, Cheapside, and the curious evidence given by the poet Chaucer on the Scrope and Grosvenor controversy.
North-East corner of St. Paul's Churchyard : site of Paul's Cross, where the Paul's Cross Sermons were preached.
The rising ground in the Tower, near the chapel of St. Peter-ad- Vincula : the place of execution of Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey, &c.
Westminster Abbey : place of coronation of our kings and queens, and sepulchre of many of them.
* In March, 1849, during excavations necessary for a new sewer, and at a depth of three feet below the surface, immediately opposite the entrance to the church of St Bartholomew the Great, the workmen laid open a mass of unhewn stones, blackened as if by fire, and covered with ashes, and human bones charred and partially consumed. This I believe to have been the spot generally used for the Smithfield burnings— the face of the sufferer being turned to the east and to the great gate of St. Bartholomew, the prior of which was generally present on such occasions. Many bones were carried away as relics. The spot should be marked by an appropriate monument.
250 SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS.
Westminster Hall : place of trial of Earl of Strafford, of Charles I., and of Warren Hastings.
New Houses of Parliament : site of Star-Chamber, Painted Chamber, and Guy Faux' Cellar.
Almonry, Westminster, in which Caxton erected his printing-press.
Centre of St. Paul's : site of tomb of John of Gaunt, and of the first Duke Humphrey's Walk.
Bridewell, * Bridge-street, Blackfriars : scene of Queen Katherine's Trial.
Ludgate-hill, over against Saracen's Head, where Wyat, in the reign of Queen Mary, was stayed in his rebellion.
Palace Yard, Westminster, in which Sir Walter Ealeigh was executed.
The street immediately facing the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, in which Charles I. was executed.
Centre of Lincoln's-Inn-fields, in which Lord Russell was executed.
Pall-mall end of Haymarket : scene of the murder of Mr. Thynn by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck.
Corner of Suffolk-street, Pall-mall : scene of the barbarous revenge on Sir John Coventry, which led to the famous Coventry Act against cutting and maiming.
Maiden-lane, Covent-garden, where, in a garret, and with only cold mutton before him for his dinner, Andrew Marvell refused the bribe of Lord Treasurer Danby.
Gray's-Inn-lane, where Hampden and Pym lived, and where they held their consultations for resisting the impost of shipmoney.
Middle Temple Gate, Fleet-street, occupying site of former gate built by Sir Amias Paulet, as a fine laid upon him by Cardinal Wolsey.
Coleman-street, in the city, whither the five members accused by Charles I. of high treason fled for concealment.
N. E. corner of the Parade in the Tower : scene of Blood's stealing the crown in the reign of Charles II.
Hose-alley, King-street, Covent-garden : scene of Dryden's beating by bullies hired by the Eaid of Rochester.
Ground between Dover-street and Bond-street, immediately facing St. James's-street : site of Clarendon House.
Hyde Park (probably near the Ring), where Oliver Crom- well drove the six horses presented to him by the Earl of Oldenburgh, and where, when thrown from his seat, a pistol went off in his pocket.
Black Jack Public-house, Portsmouth-street, Clare Market : favourite resort of Joe Miller, and celebrated for the jump
SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 251
which Jack Sheppard made from one of its first-floor windows to escape the emissaries of Jonathan Wild.
Roman Catholic Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields : the first building destroyed in the riots of 1780.
Room in Colonial Office in Downing-street in which Nelson and "Wellington met for the first and only time.
N. E. corner of Bloomsbury-square : site of Lord Mansfield's house, and scene of the burning of his library in the riots of 1780.
Barclay's Brewhouse, on the Bankside : site of Globe Theatre, in which Shakspeare played.
Statue of "William IV. in King William-street, facing London Bridge : site of Boar's Head Tavern, immortalised by Shakspeare.
Bread-street, Cheapside, in which the Mermaid Tavern of Sir Walter Raleigh and Shakspeare stood.
Child's Banking-house, No. 1, Fleet-street : site of Devil Tavern, favourite resort of Ben Jonson and of Dr. Johnson.
Ham and Beef-shop, corner of Bow-street : site of "Will's Coffee-house.
Centre house on S. side of Great Russell-street, Covent- garden : site of Button's Coffee-house.
Essex Head, in Essex-street, Strand, kept in Johnson's last years by a servant of Thrale's, and where the Doctor established his last club.
Tower-hill, on which the scaffold stood on which, in 1747, the last person (Lord Lovat) was beheaded in this country.
Pudding-lane, Monument-yard, in which the Fire of London began.
Pie-corner, in Giltspur-street, in which it ended.
Cock-lane, Giltspur-street, famous for its ghost.
Mitre Tavern, Fleet-street, where Johnson and Boswell determined on making a tour to the Hebrides.
Grub-street, Cripplegate, long celebrated as the resort of poor and distressed authors.
Alsatia, or Whitefriars, immortalised by Sir Walter Scott in " The Fortunes of Nigel."
Picthatch, nearly opposite the Charter-House-end of Old- street-road, called by Falstaff, Pistol's " manor of Picthatch."
Blue Boar Inn, No. 270, High Holborn, where Cromwell intercepted a letter from Charles I., which is said to have settled the king's execution.
St. James's-square, round which Johnson and Savage have often walked a whole night for want of a bed.
House at the top of Crane-court, Fleet-street, now Royal Scottish Hospital, with its handsome room built by Wren,
25S BITES AND KIMABKABLI EVENTS.
iu which Sir Isaac Newton sat as President of the Royal Society.
W. end of Serpentine : scene of memorable duel between Duke Hamilton ami L'onl Mohun.
W. side of Gateway of Inner Temple Lane, Fleet-street (a confectioner's), where, in the shop of Robinson the book- seller, Pope and Warburton met for the first time.
No. 8, Great Russell-street, Co vent-garden : the shop of Tom Davies, where Johnson mid Bos well met for the first time.
Burlington House Gate, Piccadilly : scene of Hogarth's print, in which he attacks Pope for his satire on the Duke of Chandos.
JewVrow, Chelsea : scene of Wilkie'a Chelsea Pen reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo.
Ground between the Piazza and Bo^i be of the two
gardens whieb led to the memorable retort made by Dr. EtaoV cliflfe to sir Godfrey Kneller.
Howard-street, Norfolk-street, Strand : scene (before the door of Mrs. Bracegirdle) of the murder, by Lord Mohun, of Mountfort, the actor.
Fox-court, (Jray's-Inn-lane : the birth-place of Richard Savage.
Brook-street, Holborn, where Chatterton poisoned himself.
Shire-lane, Fleet-street, where the Kit-Kat Club met.
Foot of Primrose-hill, where the body of Sir Edmundsbury < fodfrey was found.
The vacant Bpaoe on E. side of Ferringdon-street : site of the Elect Prison
Ground W. of Chelsea Hospital : site ofRanelagjh Gardens.
Bouse in Arlington-street* Piccadilly, in which Lord Nelson and bis wife quarrelled, and saw one another for the last time.
I. an downe Bouse, in which Priestley was living when he
discovered oxygen.
House off Tavistock-place, TavistockH^uare, in which Brands Baily weighed the earth.
treet, facing Cato-Streei : scene of the Cuto Con- spiracy of 'Thistlew 1 and his associates.
No. :'.!'. Grosvenor-sqnaje (Lord Barrowby's), where his
Majesty*! Dlinisteni were to have been murdered si they sat
at dinner, by Thistlewood and his gang.
No. 7.t lonnaught place, Bdgware road, whither the Pi Charlotte hurried in a hackney coach when she quarrelled with her father and left Warwick Bouse.
No. -I:'. Connanghl square, BSdgware-road: supposed i Tyburn ( (allows.
,'. s .'itii Audi. \ tree* (then Alderman Wood's), where
OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 253
Queen Caroline lodged in 1820 and in the balcony of which si 10 would appear and bow to the mob assembled in the street.
Xo. , Westbourne-place, Sloane-square (S. side): the house which Colonel Wardlc, it was said, had undertaken to furnish for the notorious Mary Ann Clarke, in part payment of her services in the prosecution of the Duke of York at the bar of the House of Commons.
No. 50, Albemarle-street (Mr. Murray's), where Sir Walter Scott and Lord Byron met for the first time.
No. 80, Piccadilly, from whence Sir Francis Burdett was taken to the Tower.
Hall of Chelsea Hospital : scene of Whitelocke's trial, and of the Court of Enquiry into the Convention of Cintra.
Somerset Coffee-house, Strand, E. corner of entrance to Bong's College, at the bar of which Junius directed many of his letters to be left for Woodfall.
Upper part of Constitution-hill, where Sir Robert Peel was thrown from his horse and killed.
Bankside, Southwark : scene of the attack of Barclay's draymen on Marshal Haynau.
OUTDOOR MONUMENTS AND PUBLIC STATUES.
The MONUMENT, to commemorate the Fire of London. See p. 229.
YORK COLUMN, Carlton-House Gardens. A column of Scotch granite, -erected (1830-33) by public subscription, with a bronze statue of the Duke of York, second son of George III., upon the top. The column, 124 feet high, was designed by Mr. B. Wyatt, and the statue, 14 feet high, execxited by Sir Richard Westmacott. There is a staircase and gallery affording a fine view of the W. end of London and the Surrey Hills. It is open from 12 to 4, from May to Sept. 24th, during which period alone the atmosphere of London is clear enough to allow the view to be seen.
NELSON COLUMN, Trafalgar Square. A column of Portland stone, designed by Mi*. Railton, and erected 1840-43, surmounted by a statue of Nelson. The statue, by E. H. Baily, R.A., is formed of two stones from the Granton quarry; it has been styled ••'the beau-ideal of a Green- wich Pensioner." The capital of the column is of bronze, furnished from cannon taken from the French. The bi-onze bas-relief of the Death of Nelson is by Mr. Carew ; of the
2o4 OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS.
Nile, by Mr. Woodington ; of Copenhagen, by the late Mr. Ternouth ; and of St. Vincent, by the late Mr. Watson. To the great disgrace of the nation and the government, this monument to the noblest of our naval heroes is still unfinished. Four large lions in granite will .surmount the four angles at the base, and the total cost of the column will be about 33,000J. The largest individual subscription towards the monument was contributed by the Emperor of Russia (500/.).
Bronze Equestrian Statue of CHARLES I., at Charing Cross, by Hubei-t Le Socur, a Frenchman, and pupil of John of Bologna, cast in 1633, in a spot of ground near the church in Covent Garden, and not being erected before the com- mencement of the Civil War, sold by the Parliament to John Rivet, a brazier living at the Dial, near Holborn Conduit, with strict orders to break it to pieces. But the man pro- duced some fragments of old brass, and concealed the statue under ground till the Restoration. The statue was set up in its present situation at the expense of the Crown, in 1676. The pedestal, generally attributed to Grinling Gibbons, was the work of Joshua Marshall, Master Mason to the Crown.
Standing Statue of CHARLES II., at Chelsea Hospital, by Grinling Gibbons.
Bronze Standing Statue of JAMES II., behind Whitehall, by Grinling Gibbons.
Bronze Equestrian Statue of WILLIAM III., in St. Jamcs's- square, by Bacon, junior.
Standing Statue of QUEEN ANNE, before the W. door of St. Paul's, by F. Bird.
Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE III., at Cockspur- strcet, Charing Cross, by M. C. Wyatt.
Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE IV., in Trafalgar- square, by Sir Francis Chantrey.
Marble Standing Statue of QUEEN VICTORIA, in the Royal Exchange, by Lough.
Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF CUMBERLAND, the victor at Culloden, in Cavendish-square.
Standing Statue of DUKE OF BEDFORD, in Russell- square, by Sir Richard Westmacott.
Standing Statue of PITT, in llano ver-.square, by Sir Franoil Chantrey.
Sitting Figure of FOX, in Blui-iusbury-square, by Sir Richard Westmacott.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. £55
Standing Statue of CANNING, in Palace-yard, by Sir Richard Westinacott.
Bronze Statue of ACHILLES, in Hyde Park, erected 1822, and " Inscribed by the Women of England to Arthur Duke of "Wellington and his brave Companions in arms;" by Sir Richard Westinacott. See p. 29,
Bronze Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF WELLINGTON, in front of the Royal Exchange, by Sir Francis Chantrey.
Bronze Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF WELLINGTON, on Triumphal Arch, at Hyde-Park-corner, by M. C. Wyatt.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, SQUARES, LANES, 8cc.
The landmarks, or central situations of London, are the Bank of England, the Royal Exchange, and the Mansion House, all three lying together in the very heart of the city ; — St. Paul's Cathedral and the General Post Office, both in the City, and within a stone's throw of one another ; — Temple Bar and Somerset House, the very central points of modern London ; — Charing Cross ; Regent Circus, in Piccadilly ; the Piccadilly end of Albemarle -street, and Apsley House at Hyde-Park- corner, the leading points of the southern side of modern London; — Tottenham Court Road, the Regent Circus in Oxford-street, and the corner of Edgware Road, the leading points of the northern line of London.
The principal thoroughfares, or main arteries, are Regent- street, Piccadilly, Oxford-street, Holborn, the Strand, Fleet- street, Cheapside, Cornhill, the New Road, the City Road, Drury-lane, Chancery-lane, Gray's-Inn-lane. These are all traversed by a continuous stream of omnibuses, running at sixpenny and fourpenny fares, and are best seen from the top of an omnibus. What Johnson called " the full tide of human existence," is to be seen at the Bank and Royal Ex- change ; at Charing Cross ; and the Regent Circus in Oxford- sti'eet.
New Road is in length .... 5115 yards.
Oxford-street 2304 „
Regent-street 1730 „
Piccadilly 1694 „
City Road 1690 „
Strand 1369 „
The longest street of any consequence in London without a turning, is Sackville-street, Piccadilly.
2o6 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
PALL MALL. A spacious street extending from the foot of St. James's Street to the foot of the Haymarket, and so called from a game of that name introduced into England in the reign of Charles I., perhaps earlier. James I., in his " Basilicon Doron,'' recommends it as a game that Prince Henry should use. The name (from Palla a ball, and Maglia a mallet) is given to avenues aud walks in other countries, as at Utrecht in Holland. The Malls at Blois, Tours, and Lyons are mentioned by Evelyn in his " Memoirs," under the year 1044. Pepys mentions u Pell Mell" for the first time under the 26th of July, 1660, where he says, " We went to Wood's at the Pell Mell (our old house for clubbing), and there we spent till ten at night." This is not only one of the earliest references to Pall Mall, as an inhabited locality, but one of the earliest uses of the word u clubbing" in its modern sig- nification of a Club ; and additionally interesting, seeing that the street still maintains what Johnson would have called its '•'clubbable" character.
Eminent Inhabitants. — Dr. Sydenham, the celebrated phy- sician. He was living in Pall Mall from 1664 to 1689, when he died. He is buried in St. James's Church, Mr. Fox told Mr. Rogers that Sydenham was sitting at his window looking on the Mall, with his pipe in his mouth and a silver tankard before him, when a fellow made a snatch at the tankard and ran off with it. " Nor was he overtaken," said Fox, " before he got among the bushes in Bond-street, and there they lost him." — Nell Gwyn, from 1670 to her death in 1687, In a house on the " south side," with a garden towards the Park — - now No. 79, Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Part.-. The house, however, has been rebuilt since Nell in- habited it. — The great Duke of Marlborough, in Marlborough House. — George Psalmanazar had lodgings here on his first arrival, and here he was visited as an inhabitant of Formosa. — William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, in Schomberg House, in 1760. — Robert Dodaley, the book- seller, originally a footman. He opened a shop here in 1735, with the sign of " Tully's Bead," and, dying in 1764. was buried at Durham. — Gainsborough, the painter, in the western wing of Schomberg House, from 1777 to 1783. — At the Star and Carter Tavern. William, fifth Lord Byron (& 1798) killed (1765) hia neighbour and friend, Mr. Chaworth, in what was rather a broil than a duel. The quarrel was a very foolish one — a dispute between the combatants, whether Lord Byron, who took no care of his game, or Mr. Chaworth, who did, had most game on their manor. Lord Byron was tried and acquitted.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
PALL-MALL.
m
-
United Service Club, p. 215.
257
York
Recent-street. Site of Carlton House. Column,
p. 253.
St. James's Square.
Army and Navy Club, p 216. —
British Institution, p. xli.
New Society of Painters In — Water Colours, p. xli.
*t. James' s-street.
— Athena-urn Club, p. 219.
Travellers' Club, by Barry. The garden-front fine.
— Reform Club, p. 219.
Carlton Club, p. 217.
Ordnance Office, p. 54. Harding's, Fashionable Haber- dasher. Schomberg House. In the W.
wing lived Gainsborough, the
painter. 79, Site of Nell Gwynn's house. Oxford and Cambridge Club,
p. 220.
Guards' Club, p. 216.
Marlborough House, p. 167, the great Duke of Marlborough died here. Vernon Gallery.
— St. James's Palace.
258 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
PICCADILLY, a street consisting of shops and fashionable dwelling-houses running E. and AN', from the top of the Haymarket to Hyde-pane Comer. The earliest allusion to it is in Gerard, who observes in his Herbal (1596) "that the small wild buglosse grows upon the drie ditch bankes about Pickadilla." The origin of the name is somewhat uncertain, but the most likely solution is, that it was so called after one Higgins, a tailor, who built it temp. James I., and who got most of his estate by pickadilles. a kind of stiff collar, much worn in England from 1605 to 1620.
The first Piccadilly, taking the word in its modern accep- tation of a street, was a very short line of road, running no further W. than the foot of Sackville-street, and the name Piccadilly-street occurs for the first time in the rate-books of St. Martin's, under the year 1G73. Sir Thomas Clarges's house, on the site of the present Albany, is described in 167 " near Burlington House, above Piccadilly." From Sackville- street to Albemarlc-street was originally called Portugal- street, after Catherine of Braganza, Queen of Charles II., and all beyond was the great Bath-road, or, as Agas calls it (1560) '•'the way to Reding.'' The Piccadilly of 1708 is described as " a very considerable and publick street, between Coventry- street and Portugal-street;" and the Piccadilly of 17*20 as "a large street and great thoroughfare, between Coventry- street and Albemarle-street.*' Portugal-street gave way to Piccadilly in the reign of George I. That part of the present street, between Devonshire House and Hyde-park Corner, was taken up, as Ralph tells us, in 1734, by the shops and stone-yards of statuaries, just as the New-road is now. We may road the history of the street in the names of several of the surrounding thoroughfares and buildings. Albemarle- street was .so called after Christopher Monk, second Duke of Albemarle, to whom ( 'larcndon House was sold in 1675, bv Laurence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, boh of the great Lord Clarendon. Bond-street was so called after sir Thomas Bond, of iYrkliani. to whom Clarendon Souse was sold by the Duke of Albemarle when in difficulties, a little before his death. Jermyn-stre* t was bo called alter Senry Jermyn, Bar] of st. Alban, who died 1683-4 ; Burlington House after Boyle, Earl of Burlington ; Dover street, aft< r Henry Jermyn, Lord Dover (d. 1708), the little Jermyn of De Grammontfa Memoirs; Berkeley-atreel and Stratton-street, after John, Lord Berkeley of Stratton, Lord Deputy of Ireland in the
a of Charles II.: Clargea-street, aiter Sir Walter Clar i the nephew of Ann Ckrges, wife of General Monk; and Axlington-etreel and Ben] Eenry Bennet, Earl
PRINCIPAL THOROtfGHF'ARfcS. 259
of Arlington, one of the Cabal. Air-street was built in 1659, Stratton-street in 1093, and Bolton-street was, in 1708, the most westerly street in London. Devonshire House occupies the site of Berkeley Honse, in which the first Duke of Devonshire died (1707). Hamilton-place derives its name from James Hamilton, ranger of Hyde-park in the reign of Charles II., and brother of La Belle Hamilton. Halfmoon- street was so called from the Halfmoon Tavern. Coventry House, No. 106, was built on the site of an old inn, called the Greyhound. Apsley House was called after Apsley, Earl of Bathurst, who built it late in the last century ; and the Albany, from the Duke of York and Albany, brother of George IV. St. James's Church (by Wren) was consecrated on Sunday, the 13th of July, 1684. The sexton's book of St. Martin's informs us that the White Bear Inn was in existence in 1685; and Strype, in his new edition of Stowe, that there was a White Horse Cellar in Piccadilly in 1720. The two Corinthian pilasters, one on each side of the Three Kings Inn gateway in Piccadilly, belonged to Clarendon House, and are, it is thought, the only remains of that edifice. Sir William Petty, our first writer of authority on political arithmetic, died in a house over against St. James's Church (1687). Next but one to Sir William Petty, Verrio, the painter, was living in 1675. In the dark-red-brick rectory house, at the N. side of the chm-ch, pulled down 1848, and immediately rebuilt (now No. 197), lived and died Dr. Samuel Clarke, rector of St. James's, from 1709 till his death in 1729. Here he edited Crcsar and Homer ; here he wrote his Scrip- ture Doctrine of the Trinity, and his Treatise on the Being and Attributes of God. In Coventry House, facing the Green Park, corner of Engine-street (now the Ambassadors' Club), died, in 1809, William, sixth Earl of Coventry, married, in 1752, to the eldest of the three beautiful Miss Gunnings. In what was then No. 23, now the first house E. of Hertford House, died (1803). Sir William Hamilton, collector of the Hamiltonian gems, but more generally known as the husband of Nelson's Lady Hamilton. From No. 80, Sir Francis Burdett was taken to the Tower, April 6th, 1810 ; the officer, armed with an arrest- warrant, scaling the house with a ladder, and entering the window of the drawing-room, where Sir Francis was found instructing his son in Magna Charta, the street being occupied by the Horse Guards. No. 105, now Hertford House, was the old Pulteney Hotel; here the Emperor of Russia put up during the memorable visit of the allied sovereigns in 1814': and here the Duchess of Olden- burgh (the Emperor Alexander's sister) introduced Prince
s 2
260 ruiNcirAL thoroughfares.
Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. In the large brick house No. 1, Stratton-strect, died Mrs. Coutts, afterwards Duchess of St. Albans, — it is now Miss Coutts Burdett's. Lord Eldon's house, at the corner of Hamilton-place, was built by his grandfather, Lord Chancellor Eldon, who died in it. Nos. 138 and 139 were all one house in the old Duke of Queens- bury 's time. Here, in the balcony, on fine days in summer, he used to sit, a thin, withered old figure, with one eye, looking on all the females that passed him, and not dis- pleased if they returned him whole winks for his single ones. He had been Prince of the Jockies of his time, and was a voluptuary and millionaire. "Old (>." was his popular appellation. At the Duchess of Gloucester's, at the corner of Park-lane, once Lord Elgin's, and where the Elgin marbles were placed on their first arrival in this country, is a very beautiful carpet in sixty squares, worked by sixty of the prin- cipal ladies among the aristocracy. No. 91 was formerly Egremont House, then Cholrnondeley House, next Cambridge House, and now tenanted by Sir Richard Sutton, the ground landlord of half of Piccadilly. The Duke of Cambridge, youngest son of George III., died in this house. The bay- fronted house at the W. corner of Whitehorse-street was the residence of M. Charles Duniergue, the friend of Sir Walter Scott ; until a child of his own was established in London, this was Scott's head-quarters when in town. The London season of Lord Byron's married life was passed in that half of the Duke of Queensbury's house, now No. 139. Here he brought his wife, and that hag of a house-maid. Mrs. Mule, of whom Moore has given an amusing account. On the pave- ment opposite Lord Willoughby D'Eresby's, next but one W. to Hamilton-place, stood the Hez-cules Pillars public- house, where Squire Western put his horses np when in pursuit of Tom Jones, and where that bluff brave soldier, the Marquis of Granby (d. 1770), spent many a happy hour. On the south side, facing Old Bond-street, waa the shop of Wright, the bookseller, where Clifford assaulted Peter Pindar and got the better of him in the struggle. The house two doors E. of the Duke of Wellington's was long the London residence of Beckford, author of Vathek. In the most westerly of the two brick house- between Apsley House and Hamilton-place, the Late Marquis of Northampton gave his soi)'£cs,u* President of the Royal Society. In the other brick house lives Lord Londesborough, distinguished for his know- ledge and love of antiquities.
ritlXCirAL THOROUGHFARES.
261
PICCADILLY.
St. George's Hospital.
Grosvenor-nlaco. Hyde Park Corner.
W.
The Green Park.
I Apsley House.
Duke "of Wellington.
— Hamilton-place. Lord Eldon
d. in corner house. No. 139, Lord Byron lived at.
— Park-lane, leading to Oxford-
street.
5" a
u
It.
H —
8*3
Reservoir of Waterworks Company.
Arlington-street. — No. 5, II. Walpole's house.
St. James' s-street. —
Ludlam, hosier. —
Grange, fruiterer.—
Duke-street. —
l'ortnum & Mason's. —
St. James's Church. +
!l-
--: o S
|*
3D — J
5T =
-J o 0 g"
4g
o P 05 >—
II
Down-street. Mr. Hope's
house, p. 23. Engine- street. Hertford
house, p. 22. Whitehorse-street. At west corner Sir Walter Scott usually stopped when in town.
■ Half Moon-street. East corner house Madame d'Arblay lived.
Clarges-street.
Bolton-street. Bathhouse, p. 20.
Stratton-street. West corner house, Miss Burdett Coutts. Devonshire house.
Berkeley-street.
— Dover-street. At Three Kings stables, re- mains of Clarendon house.
— Albemarle-street.
— Bond-street. In No. 41, died Sterne.
— Burlington Arcade. Burlington house, p. 21.
— Albany (let in lodgings.)
— Sackville-street. Swallow-street. Scottish
Church.
— Air-street.
— Swan & Edgar.
208 nmrciPAL thorough?
ST. JAMES'S STREET commences at Bt James's Palace,
and extends to Albeniarlc-street.
" The Campus Martins of St. .Tamcs's- ffhtN tin; beam* i I fro,
re they take the & Id ii' Rotten B
l:. /:. Sktri
Obsen'c. — East side, White's Club-house, Nob. 87 and 38; Boodle's Club-house, No. 28; and on the west side, Crook- ford's, two doors from top (and now closed) : Brooks's Club- house, No. 60; Arthur's, No. 69; Conservative Club, No. 85; Thatched House Tavern, containing three portraits, two wtj fine, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Bmtm nt Inhabitant*. — Waller, the poet, from 1<;(30 till the period of his death (1687) in a house on the west side. Pope* in "lodgings at Mr. 1 1 next door to yc Golden Ball, on j* Second Terras in St. James's-street." Gibbon, the historian, died, 1794, in No. 76 (S. corner of Little St. James then Elmsleythe
bookseller's, now the site of the Conservative Club. Lord Byron, in lodgings, at No 8, in 1 811 .
"When we were on the point of setting out from blfl lodging in St. James's-street [to go to Sydenham to Tom Campbell's^ it being then ah.. nt mid-day, be Mid to the servant, irho was shutting the door of the
vis-a-vis. 'Have y.m pnt in the pistols?' and was answered in the alnnnative." - ACS onfi I. '
Gillray, the carioaturist (d. 1815), in No. 29, over what was then the slid]) of Messrs. Humphrey, the printeellers end publishers. He threw himself out of an upstairs window, and died of the injuries he received. Jn this street Blood
made his desperate attack on the great Duke of Ormond, when "ii his way home between 6 and 7 in the evening (Tuesday, Dee. 6th, i » ; t < • ^ . to Clarendon Souse, si the top of St. Jam. - Btrt • it, where he then resided The >;^ footmen who invariably attended the duke, walking on both sides of the street, o i oach, were by Borne oontrivsnos
stopped, or by some mismanagemenl were not in th<
and th-' duke \,.; . nt of his Oaniage, buokled to a
i trength, and actually oarried past Berkeley
House (now Devonshire Ho a Piccadilly, on the r< Tyburn, where they intended i > hive hanged him. The coachman drove to i Harendon House, told the porter that his r bad been isisod by two men, who had oarried him down Piocadilly. A ehase was immediately made, and tin* • hike discovered in a violent in the mud with the
villain he was I led to, who regained bis horse, fired a pistol nt the <luke. and made bis escape.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
2H3
ST. JAMESS STREET. Piccadilly. Piccadilly.
23, Lord Walsingham. 22, Duke of Beaufort.
21, Dow. Countess Seftcu.
of
lived
White's Clot Boom
20, Marq. of Salisbury, tj, 19, Earl of Zetland. E 18, Rt. Hon. E. E'.lice. < 17, Earl of Yarborough.
Jermyn-strect.
w.—
-K.
11
u
■O
%&
2, S. Rogers, Esq.
Brooks's Club. —
Old Cocoa-tree Club. 64.—
Site where Sir Rich. Steele lived.
Gillrav, the caricaturist, killed himself from window of No. 29.
Kyder-street.
St. James's-placc.
King-street.
J l_
Spencer House. No.
Arthur's Club. —
Almack'B.
No. 74, Conservative Club. —
In a house on this site died
Gibbon, the historian.
Thatched House. — | Dilettanti Portraits. !
No. 8, Lord Byron s lodgings in 1811.
Pall Mull.
St. James's Palace.
264 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
REGENT STREET. The most handsome street in the metropolis. It was designed and carried out by Mr. John Nash, architect, under an Act of Parliament obtained in 1813. The street was intended as a communication from Carlton House to the Regent's Park, and commenced at St. Alban's-street, facing Carlton House, thence through St. James's Market across Piccadilly to Castle-street, where it formed a Quadrant, to intersect with Swallow -street, and then, taking the line of Swallow-street, (the site of which is about the centre of Regent-street,) it crossed Oxford to Foley House, where it intersected with Portland-place. The reason for adopting this line was that great part of the property belonged to the Crown. Langham-place Church was built by Nash a> a termination to the view up Regent- street from Oxford-street. For this purpose the tower and spire are advanced forward to the centre line of the street, and appear almost isolated from the church. In his designs for Regent-street, Mr. Nash adopted the idea of uniting several dwellings into a single facade, so as to preserve a degree of continuity essential to architectural importance ; and, however open to criticism many of these designs may be, when considered separately, it cannot be denied that be has produced a varied succession of architectural scenery. the effect of which is picturesque and imposing, certainly superior to that of any other portion of the metropolis, and far preferable to the naked brick walk then nniversally forming the sides of our streets. The perishable nature of the brick and composition of which the houses in this street are built gave rise to the following epigram : —
"Augustus at Rome ru for building renown'd,
And of marble In- left what of briek be hud found j Hut is not <"ir NftSh, BOO. ■ very great master? — lie finds us nil brick and lie loaves us all plaster."
Quarterly Bmntw/arJimi, IBM,
REGENT STREET AND WATERLOO PLACE.
Polytechnic Institution.
All Souls', Lugham-plM&
Nash, architect.
— National Institute of Fine Arts.
Oxford-st. Oxford-st.
anover Chapel. Cockerell, + architect. Verrey, confectioner and — restaurant; good.
Cosmorama. —
Conduit-street.—
Holmes's shawl shop. New Burlington-street.
Newman's stables, horses on the first, second, and third floors.
— Argyll-street.
Houbigant, French glover and perfumer.
•— Archbishop Tenison's Chapel.
Scotch Stores, in Beak-street. Forrer, artist in hair.
Vigo-street, leading to Albany — ~ Marylebone-street, near cut to and Bond-streets. llayniarket.
%\— Davis, famous for cigars.
V
Swan and Edgar. — >•
Piccadilly. Piccadilly.
Jermyn-street. — Carlton Club Chambers Regent-street Chapel. Repton, arch
Howell and James's, mercors
Charles-street. —
Jermyn-street. Parthenon Club.
— (Jallery of Illustration, formerly house of Nash the architect.
unior Unit. Ser. Club.
— Charles-street.
Pali-Mall. Pali-Mall.
266 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES,
HOLBORN, or OLDBOURXE. A main thoroughfare, running east and west, between Drury-lane and Farringdon- street. From Drury-lane to Brook-street is called " High Holborn;" from Brook-street to Fetter-lane, " Holborn ; " and from Fetter-lane to Fferringdon-etreet* "Holborn Hill." At Brook-street stood " Holborn Bus, * marking the ter- mination of the City Liberties in that direction ; and at Farringdon-street stood a stone bridge over the Fleet, called u Oldbourne Bridge," It deriws its name from Oldbourne, or Hilbourne. a burn or rivulet that broke out near Holborn Bars, and ran down the whole street to Oldbourne Bridge, and into the river of the Wells and Fleet Ditch. Th the old road from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at Tyburn. Up the " heavy hill " went William, Lord Russell on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln's-Iun-fields. The MOM line of road from Aldgate to Tyburn was chosen for the cruel whippings which Titus Oates, Dangerfield, and Johnson endured in the reign of James II. Eminent 1 /(habitants. — Gerard, who dates his Herbal (fol. 1597) "From my house in Holborne, within the suburbs of London, this first of December, 1597." He had a good garden behind his house, and mentions in his Herbal many of the rarer plants which grew well in it. — Sir Kenelm Digby, in a house of his own building, between King-street and Southampton-street. — Milton.
" B« [Milton] left his great house in Barbican, and betook himself t > a smaller, anion;,' those that open backward Into Lincoln's Inn Fields ; here he lived a private life, still prosecating his studies and curious search into knowledge." — PhtUpt't /.'/< c/MBkm, 12ino, lfV.U, p. xxi.x.
Observe. — The Blue Boar Inn, No. 270, High Holborn, where a letter from Charles I. was intercepted by Cromwell and Ireton, disguised as troopers. The letter is said to have determined the king's execution.*
• Handbook for London, Past and Present," p. CO.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
267
HOLBORN.
Skinner-street. B. 'I'tii — Farringdon- street, covering the
Fleet Ditch. Froposed new street to Clerken- I '_ shoe-lane.
well Church. 3 I ni_ , . , _ _
2 + St. Andrew s, Holbom. Ely-place.—, c j Dr. Sacheverel's Church.- Savage,
See Ely Chapel. the poet, baptised in this church.
Hatton-garden.— ~
.eather-laue. —
Fumival's-Inn. Brook-street. —
Gray's-Inn-lane, Fox-court (on ■ right hand).
Birth-place of Savage.
Fuhvood's-reuts. —
Red Lion-street.—
Kingsgate-street
King-street. — Southampton-street. —
H — Fetter-lane. — Castle-street.
Si to of Holhorn Bars, or City Liberty without the walls.
— Chancery-lane.
Great Turnstile,
Lincoln's-Inn- ficlds.
— Little Turnstile.
— New Turnstile.
— Little Queen-street. Down this street Lord Russell
was led to the scaffold.
Museum-street, 1 >rui -v-lano.
leading to liritish Museum. W.
Oxford-street.
■2i>* PRINCIPAL THOROl IHFARE&
The STRAND. One of the main arteries of London reaching '• from Charing-cross to Essex-street : " from I street to Temple Bar mi "Temple Bar Without." It was long very little more than "a way or street " between the Cities of Westminster and London, ami was not payed before 1532, when an Act was passed for "paving the street way between Charing-cross and Strand-cross, at the charge of the owners of the land." One of the first ascertained inhabitants was Peter of Savoy, uncle of Henry III., to whom that king, in the thirtieth year of his reign (1245), granted "all those houses upon the Thames, which sometime pertained to Briane de Insula, or Lisle, without the walls of the City of London, in the way or street called the Strand." The Bishops were the next great dignitaries who had inns or houses in the Strand, connecting, as it were, the City with the King's Palace at Westminster. " Aneientl y." says Selden, in his Table Talk, "the noblemen lay within the City for safety and security; but the bishops' houses were by the water-side, because they were held sacred persons whom nobody would hurt." As many as nine bishops possessed inns or hostels on the south or water side of the present Strand, at the period of the Reformation.
1'KINVirAL THOROUGHFARES.
STRAND.
Temple Bai E.
Wych St., leading to Drury-lane.
Ilolywell-street. Full of Jew-clot hesmen and Book-stalls.
Catherine-street, leading to Brydges-street.
Lyceum Theatre.
Burleigh-street. Site of Exeter 'Change.
Southampton-street
Site of Bedford House.
Adelphi Theatre. Behind this Theatre is Maiden Lane, in which Andrew Marvel lived and Voltaire lodged.
King William-street. —
Golden'Cross. —
— Site of Essex House.
!— Devereux Court. Here was the Grecian Coffee-house.
St. Clement's Dane Church. Site of Arundel House.
St. Mary-le-Strand Church. Site
of Maypole. — Somerset House.
No. 141. Site of Tonson's shop. Wellington-street, leading t Waterloo Bridge.
Savoy Chapel, down " Sav Steps." Worth seeing.
Beaufort Buildings. Site of
Worcester House. Cecil-street. Site of Salisbury
House and New Exchange. Adam St., leading to Adelphi
Terrace, facing the River.
In the centre house of which
Garrick died. Coutts & Co., Bankers.
Site of Durham House. Sir Walter Raleigh lived here. Go down Buckingham Street and see Inigo Jones's Water Gate, all that remains of York House, built forVilliers, Duke of Buckingham.
Site of York House. Lord Bacon born here.
Hungerford Market.
Northumberland House.
W.
Charing Cross.
'2,0 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
FLEET STREET, between Tkmi-lk BaS and Ludgate Hill. One of the largest thorough fares in London, and one of the most famous, deriving its name from a streamlet called the Fleet, obscure in itself, but widely known from the Ditch, the Prison, and the street to which it has given its name. The two churches are St. Dunstan's-in-the-'West, and St. Bride's, the former by Shaw, the latter by Wren. Ob- serve.—Middle Temple Gate and Inner Temple Gate ; "White- friars, or Alsatia; Bolt-court, in which Dr. Johnson lived and died ; Shire-lane, a dingy and narrow passage, in which the Kit-Kat Club met in the reign of Queen Anne. The Fire of London stopped at the church of St. Dunstan's-in-the-'West on the one side, and within a few houses of the Inner Temple Gate on the other.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
FLEET STREET.
E.
271
Shoe Lane, leading to Holborn.
— Bride Lane,leading to Bridewell
Hospital.
+ St Bride's Church.
Built by Wren.
— To Salisbury Square,
Iu which Richardson, the novelUt
lived.
Bolt Court. Dr. Johnson died here.
— Bouvorie- street, leading t.» Whitefriars and Alsatia.
Fetter Lane, leading to Holborn.
Peele's Coffee House ;
Newspapers filed here.
— Serjeants' Inn.
— Mitre Tavern. Snort oi Dr. J'dmson and BSMKJtk
Craae Court — Scottish Hospital; - Old Meeting Room of Royal Society, when Sir Isaac Newton was President.
I'hurch of St. Dunstan's in
the "West. Here the Fire of London stopped.
Chancery Lane. - Seven doors up, on the left, lived Izaak Walton.
Cock Tavern. — Famous for Stout
Iluare's Banking House.
— Inner Temple Lane, leading
to Temple Church: at W. corner house (now a confec- tioner's), Pope and Warbur- ton first met.
— Rainbow Tavern. Famuus for
Stout.
— .Middle Temple Lane.
Child's Banking House. Oldest Banking House in London. Site also of Dev il Tavern.
w.
Temple Bar.
272 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
CHEAPSIDE, or CHEAT. A street between the Poultry and St. Paul's, a continuation of the line from Charing Cross to the Royal Exchange, from Holborn to the Bank of England. This street, one of the most frequented thoroughfares in London, was famous in former times for its " Ridings," its " Cross," its " Conduit," and its '' Standard," and, still later, for its silk-mercers, linen-drapers, and hosiers.
The last Lord Mayor's pageant* devised by the City poet, and publicly performed (Elkanah Settle was this last City poet), was seen by Queen Anne in the first year of her reign (1702) "from a balcony in Cheapside." The concluding plate of Hogarth's "Industry and Idleness" represents the City procession entering Cheapside — the seats erected on the occa- sion and the canopied balcony, hung with tapestry, containing Frederick, Prince of Wales, and his Princess, as spectators of the scene.
Observe— Church of St. Mary-le-Bow (p. 122); Saddlers' Hall, next No. 142 : here Sir Richard Blackmore, the poet, followed the profession of a physician. Xo. 90. corner of Ironmonger-lane, was the shop of Alderman Boydcll (d. 1804). Before he removed here, he lived "at the Unicorn, the corner of Queen-street, in Cheapside, London." Before the proooni Mansion-house was built in 1737, No. 73 (formerly Mr, I the bookseller's) was used occasionally as the Lord Mayor's Mansion-house.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
■>!?>
CHEAPSIDE AND POULTRY.
Mansion House,
St. Mildred in the Poultry.
Site of Poultry Compter. — £ Grocers' Hall. —
Old Jewry.
Mercers' Hall, p. 230, behind which Thomas Becket, Arch- bishop of Canterbury, was born.
King-street, leading to the Guild Hall, p. 225.
Laurence-lane.
Milk-street. Sir Thomas More born in.
Wood-street.
(J utter-lane.
Genera] Post Oihce.
Bucklersbury, lending to the beautiful church of St. Stephen's, "NValbrook, one of Wren's greatest works.
Queen-street, leading to South- wark Bridge, p. 44.
St Mary-lc-Bow Church.
Bread-street.
Milton born in. Ilere stood the Mermaid Tavern, frequented by Shakspeare, Raleigh, Ben Jonson.
Friday-street.
— old Change.
L
W. St. Paul's Church-yard.
274 n:iN(ii'.\i. THOBOUGHl
CORNHILL. A crowded thoroughfare between the Pouir try and Lbadehhai i and so called, of a corn
market "time out of mind there holden,"' and formerly dis- tinguished for its prison for night-walkers, called " The Tun.'* because the same was built somewhat in fashion of a tun
standing on 'the one end, — for its fair Conduit of sweet water "castellated in the middestof the street," — and for its water- standard, called "The Standard,*' with its four spouts run- ning at every tide four different ways. •• The Tun" waa bujlt in 1283 by Henry Walleis, who built the Stocks Market (the site is still marked by a pump and suitable inscription") ; the Conduit (adjoining it) in 1401, and the Standard in 1682, for water from the Thames, brought by an artificial forcer invented by Peter Morris, a Dutchman, the first person who conveyed Thames water into houses by pipes of lead. The Standard stood near the junction of Cornhill with Leaden- hall-street, and distances were formerly measured from it, as many of our suburban milestones still remain to prove, The earliest occupants of the street were drapers.
The two churches are St. Peter's, Cornhill, and St. Michael's, Cornhill. Gray, the poet, was born Deo, "-'''th. 1716. in a house on the site of No. 41. The original house was destroyed by fire, March 25th, 1748. and immediately rebuilt by ('my.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGH I All is
275
CORNHILL.
Bishopsgate-Bt., leading to
Shoreditch. E.
Finch-lane. — Joe's Chop-house, good.
Site of Freeman's-court, - in which De Foe lived.
Royal Exchange, p. 61.
Gracechurch-st., leading to London Bridge.
St. Peter's, Cornhill.
St. Michael's, Cornhill.
St. Michael' s-alley.
No. 41, birth-place of Gray, the poet.
Birchiu-lane.
Change-alley.
Pope's 1 lead-alley.
— Lombard-street. Bank of England, p. 59. — st. Mary Woolnoth Ch., p. 196.
Princes-street. W. Mansion House, p. '224.
T2
27H PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES,
DRURY LANE was so called, from the town house of the ancient family of the Drurys. Before the Drurys btdlt here, the old name for this lane or road was " Via de Aldwych ; " hence the name of Wych-street, at the bottom of Drurydane. A portion of it, in James I.'s time, was occasionally called Princc's-street ; — " Drurydane, now called the Prince's-street," but the old name triumphed, and Princc's-street was confined to a new row of tenements, branching to the east, and still distinguished by that name. Observe. — Craven-yard (so called from Craven House); Clare- House-court (so called from the noble family of Holies, Earls of Clare) ; Pit-place (so called from the Cockpit Theatre) ; Charles-street, originally Lewknor's-lane, and long notorious; Coal-yard, the birthplace of Nell Gwynn. Eminent Inhabitants. — Nell Gwynn.
" 1 May, 1667. To "Westminster; in the way meeting many milk- maids with their garlands upon their pails, dancing with a fiddler before them; and saw pretty Nelly standing at her lodgings door in Drury- lanein hdr smock-sleevea and bodice, looking upon one ; she seemed a mighty pretty creature." — Fspj/a.
Drurydane lost its aristocratic character early in the reign of William III. Steele, in the Tatlcr (No. 46), describes it as a long course of building divided into particular districts or " ladyships," after the manner of " lordships " in other parts, " over which matrons of known abilities preside." ( lay calls up all our caution and virtue in this place —
"() may thy virtue guard thee through the roads I >t" Drurv's mazy COUrtfl and dark ahodos! The harlots' guileful path-, who nightly stand
Where Catherine-streel deecenda Into the strand."- Drimm. In Drury-lane Lord Mohun made his unsuccessful attempt to carry off Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actr<
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
277
DRURY LANE.
31
Broad-street, St. Giles's.
Ilolbom.
Long Acre, leading to Leicester-square.
Little Russell-street, leading
to Covent-garden, Dniry-lano
Theatre, &c.
Russell-conrt. footway from City to Covent-garden.
Site of Nell Gwynn's lodging, — where Pepys saw her watching the milkmaids on May day.
Strand.
— Coal-yard, birth-place of Nell Gwyun.
Charles-street alias Lewknor's-
lane, long a notoriously
bad part of London.
Great Queen's-street, leading to Lincoln's-inu-fields.
Pitt-place, properly Cockpit- place, site of Cockpit Theatre (the first Drury-laue Theatre.)
Prince' s-street, leading to Lincoln' s-inn-fields.
Scene of seizure of Mrs. Brace- girdle by Lord Mohun.
-Craven-buildings, sito of cravc-n v house, in wbich the Queen ot Bohemia died.
St. Mary-le-Strand Churcli.
278 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
CHANCERY LANE, a long lane running from Fleet- street into Holborn, chiefly occupied by barristers aud soli- citors of recent standing. The great Lord Strafford was born (1593) in this lane, "at the house of his mother's father, Mr. Robert Atkinson, a bencher of Lincoln's Inn ; " the register of St. Dunstan's, Fleet-street, records his bap- tism. Eminent Inhabitants. — Isaak Walton (1627-44), in what was then the seventh house on the left hand as you walk from Fleet-street into Holborn. Jacob Tonson's first shop was at or near the Fleet-street end of Chancery-lane, and distinguished by the sign of the Judge's Head. About 1697 he removed to Gray's Inn Gate, where he remained till about 1712, and then removed to a house in the Strand over- against Catherine-street. Here he adopted Shakspeare's Head for his sign. . Observe. — Old Lincoln's Inn Gateway, of the age of Henry VIII. (dated 1518). At the back of the Rolls Chapel is " Bowling-Inn-alley ; " Mary Ann Clarke (the wife of a bricklayer, and subsequently the mistress of the Duke of York) was the daughter of a man named Thompson, a journeyman labourer in this narrow court.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGH 1AI: I >.
CHANCERY LANE.
Holborn. Holborn.
279
N W K
-Southampton Buildings.
-Cursitor-street.
Id Gateway to Lincoln's-Inn.
Carey-street.
Law Institution and Club.—
Izaak Walton lived.
—Rolls House and Chapel, p. 58. —New Record office, now building. — Serjeants' Inn.
Temple Bar.— Fleet-street.
Fleet-street.
280 PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
OXFORD STREET. A line of thoroughfare, one mile and a half long, between St. Giles's Pound and old TyLura Turn- pike, and so called from its being the highway from London to Oxford. In 1708 it was known as Tyburn-road. It is, however, somewhat uncertain when it was first formed into a continuous line of street, and in what year it was first called Oxford-street. New Oxford-street, opened for car- riages March 6th, 1847, occupies the site of the "Rookery *' of St. Giles, through which it was driven at a cost of 290,227*. 4s. 10d, of which 113,963*. was paid to the Duke of Bedford alone fur freehold purchases. All that remained, in the autumn of 1849, of this infamous Rookery (so called as a place of resort for sharpers and quarrelsome people) was included and condensed in ninety -five wretched houses in Church-lane and Carrier-street, wherein, incredible as the fact may appear, no less than 2850 persons were crammed in 1 to 1-jij acre of ground. In these noisome abodes nightly shelter, at 3c*. per head, might be obtained.
The NEW ROAD is a crowded thoroughfare or continua- tion of the City-road, leading to the Regent's Park, St. John's-wood, and . the Edgeware-road. It was planned in 1754, and opened about 1758. Observe. — St. James's Chapel, Pentonville (on the north side) ; here R. P. Bonington. the painter, is buried. — St. Pan eras New Church. — Holy Trinity Church, Marylebone. — St. Marylebone New Church.
CITY ROAD. A crowded thoroughfare — a continuation of the New-road, running from the Angel at Islington to Finsbury-square ; opened 1761 ; Mr. Dingley, the projector, who gave it the name of the City-road, modestly declining to have it called after his own name. Obseire. — John "Wesley's chapel and grave, immediately opposite Bunhill- fields Burial-ground.
MGnai niiiititiiiirs assembled to see the ceremony of laying the (bandar tion, so that Wesley oonld not, irithoul much difficulty, K*'t through the
press to lay the Brsi stone, on whlcb liis inline and tiie date w ere Inserted on a jilate of brass. ' This was Uld by John Wesley, on April 1. 1777.' Probably, says be, this w\\\ be seen do more by any human eye, but will remain there till the rarth. and the. works thereof, aro burnt up." — Souihejft /.[/' '/ II
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
281
BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN,
So called from running in the shape of a hent bow.
I J
Long Acre. Long Acre.
W —
— E
Royal Italian Opera or Covent - Garden Theatre, p. 176. On the site of this theatre lived Dr. Radcliffe, Wycherley, and many other wits, from 164G to 1735.
Bow-street Police Office. Here - Fielding wrote his Tom Jones.
Site of Will's Coffee-house.
Upper house, corner of King's Arms-court, lived Griuling Gibbons.
Great Russell-street.
Great Russell-street.
282
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLNSINN FIELDS, So called in compliment to Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. Lincoln' s-Inn-fields.
Little Queen-street, leading to -
Hoi born. Down this street Lord Kussell was
Id to the scaffold in Lincoln s-
Inn-fields.
The whole of the north side was built a century later than the south.
W
House of Lord Chancellor Soraers and ninth Duke of Newcastle
The whole of the south Bide was originally built by Inigo Jones, and from 1G30 to 1730 was one of the most fashionable localities in Li melon — the houses com manding a tine view of Holborn- fields. Great Marlborough-st., a century later, was similarly situated with respect to Oxford- street. In one of these houses Lord Herbert of Cherbury died. In one of them Sir Godfrey Kneller lived for the last twenty years of his life. The large red-brick house, with an arch- way under it (now Nos. 55 and 5G) was the house of Hudson, the portrait-painter, and master of Sir Joshua Reynolds.
Drury-lane.
I>rury-lanr.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
283
CHARING CROSS TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
|
N. h'C» R#3 |
— Northumberland House |
|
|
Drummond's Bank. — |
"as o2S |
— Craig's Court. Cox and Greenwood's. |
|
A-dniiralty, p. 54. — ; |
OS ° ° w a |
— Scotland Yard. |
Metropolitan Police station.
Paymaster-Gen's office, p. 52.
Horse Guards, p. 53.
Office of the Com.-in-Chief
(the Duke of Wellington).
The Treasury, p. 48.
Office of the Prime Minister.
Site of Cockpit, in which Oliver Cromwell lived. Chancel, of the ' I Exchequer. I
Colouial Office. — — : r
Foreign Office. Dowmng-st.
Whitehall Banqueting-house, built by Inigo Jones, p. 5.
— Privy Gardens.
Sir R. Peel's house.
Richmond Terr.— Site of Duchess of Portsmouth's lodgings.
In this street died, for
lack of bread, m
Spenser, author of the / £ / " Fairie Queen "
Great George-street, to Westminster Bridge.
284
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
HAYMARKET,
So called from a Market of Hay formerly kept there.
•iccadilly. Coventry-street
The whole W. side is occupied by Restaurants, Taverns, Public- Houses, and Shell-fish shops. The Blue Posts has been a tavern for nearly two centuries. Quin's is the best oyster-shop in the llaymarket.
Charles-street. -
Her Majesty's Theatre, or old Italian Opera House.
Coventry Court. Site of Picca- dilly Gaming House and of Coventry House, residence of Secretary Coventry, sec. to Charles II.
— Panton-street. In a garret In one of these houses, Addison wrote his " Campaign."
James-street.
— Ilemmings' Supper-room. Cafe" de 1' Europe.
— llaymarket Theatre, p. It
Suffolk-street
Pall-Mall. Pall-Mall. S.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
L'N.-,
GROSVENOR PLACE,
So called from the Grosvenor family, the ground landlords, and huilt 1767—1777.
St. George's Hospital, p. 208.— Wilkins architect.
Halkin-street, leading to Belgrave-square. No. 12, corner house, Earl of Carlisle's.
Chapel-street. —
Grosvenor-place houses. — No. 3, Sir Anthony Rothschild. No. 41 Viscount Mahon.
No. 16, Sir James Graham.
Apsley House Piccadilly.
Footway to Constitution-hill.
- Garden wall of Buckingham Palace, p. 1. The houses in Grosvenor-place overlook Buckingham Palace gardens, and were huilt during the Grenville administration ; Grenville, to vex King George III., refusing to purchase the Kite.
Queen's Summer House, on Mount concealing the Mews from the Palace.
Lower Grosvenor-place.
286
PRISrClPAL THOROUGHFARES.
PARK LANE.
1
- I
Site of Tyburn Gallows, and O bnrial-pl. of Oliver Cromwell. ~
I i Marble Arcli, from Buckingham Palace.
Grosvenor Gate.
HYDE PARK.
Btanhope Gate.-
Oxford-street.
Camelford House. "Where the Princess Charlotte and Princ Leopold Uvea.
Green Street: at No. 56, died Rev. Sydney Smith.
Upper Grosvenor-street Grosvenor House.
— Mount-street
— South-street.
Stanhope-street. Chesterfield House, p. 18, facing the Park.
Piccadilly. Piccadilly.
To City.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
287
NEWGATE STREET. General Post Office. E.
St. Martin's-le-Grand. Cheaps*3®*
Bath-street (Old Bagnio), in time of Charles II.
Bull Head-court, -relief of William Evans and Sir Jeffrey Hudson.
King Edward-street, formerly Butcher-hall-lane.
Passage leading to Christ's — Hospital.
Christ's Hospital, New Hall, p. 196.
Giltspur-street Compter
n
Panyer-alley. (Curious sculp- ture in.)
Queen's Head Passage. (Dolly's Chop-house in.)
Ivy-lane. (Site of Dr. Johnson's Ivy-lane Club.)
Newgate Market. (The great Carcass-market of London.)
In Bell-inn Archbishop Leighton died.
— Warwick-lane. (On right, Old College of Physicians, built by "Wren. Observe— EBigy of Guy on W. wall of lane.)
Newgate.
Pye-corner. Here Fire of Lon- don stopped.
Giltspur-street. Old Bailey.
St. x Sepulchre's Church.
2ss
PRINCIPAL THOROUGH I A RES.
ALDERSGATE STREET.
N.
"Wilderness-row. Old-street-road. Charter House, p. 195
Smitlificld.
Long-lane. —
Albion Tavern, - famous for good dinners. London House, - formerly residence of Bishops of London. "Westmoreland Buildings, - marking site of town-house of the Nevilles, Earls of "West- moreland.
Little Britain. - St. Botolph, Aldersgate.- BiUl and Mouth street.—
Site of Pistol's " Manor of Pict- hatch."
Barbican.
— Landerdale-bnildings, marking site of Lauderdale House, town-house of Duke of Lauder- dale, temp. Chas. II.
Shaftesbury House, built by Inigo Jones for the Earl of Thanet. Here lived Lord Chancellor Shaftesburv, temp. Chas. II.
Here stood Aldersgate.
General rost-oftice, p. 50.
Newgate-street
Cheapalde.
St. Anil's, x ji LOO.
s.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
289
FISH-STREET HILL, GRACECHURCH STREET, AND BISHOPSGATE-STREET.
St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. Houndsditch.
Bull Inn, used as a stage (before - theatres were erected) by Tarl- ton and Burbage; here Hob- son, the earner, put up.
South Sea House. —
Threadneedle-st. - St. Martin's Outwich. ■ London Tavern, celebrated for • good dinners.
N
Cornhill.
Omnibuses for Sur- — — E rey and Kent start from both sides of street.
At the Cross Keys, in the reign — of Queen Elizabeth, Bankes exhibited his horse, Morocco.
Lombard-st. —
White-Hart-court. Fox, founder— of the Quakers, died in.
Nag's-Head-court. M. Green,— the poet, died in.
King "William-street. —
Statue of "William IV. Site of— Boar's Head Tavern in East- cheap.
Arthur-street. Here stood a stone house in which Edward the Black Prince was lodged.
Here stood Bishopsgate, one of the gates in London-wall.
St. Helen's Bishopsgate, p. 118.
Crosby Hall. Good perpendi- cular building, temp. Hen. VIII. Wesleyan Centenary Hall.
— Leadenhall-street.
Fenchurch-street.
St. Bennet, Gracechurch.
— Little Eastcheap.
£ — Monument— 202 feet from which the Fire of London began.
St. Magnus, by Sir C. Wren.
The Thames. Site "f "Id London Bridge.
290 rniNur.w. WlOllOtJGfifAMIS.
UPPER AND LOWER THAMES STREET. f ho Town*.
St. Dunstan's-hill. St. Duustan's, by WVen.
St. Marv-nt-Hill. Coal Exchange. —
Pudding-lane. lire of London began.
Fish-atreet-hill.
King William-street.—
N-
Suffolk-lane. Merchant Tailors' School.
Dowgate.
College-hill.
St. Michael's, College-hill, by Wren. St. James's Garlic-hithe, by Wren.
St. Michaels, o_ueenhithe,by Wren.
Bread-Mn ■•■t-hill, leading to — Cbeapnde.
< > l < 1 li^h-sti-ect-hill. X St. Mary B«M Bennet's, Viuil's -wharf. burial-place of Inigo Jones, leading to BereldB College, p. l88,endDoetor»*Conunoni, p. 68.
Custom-house, i>. 4:'.
Billingsgate Market, p. 72.
.-t.aiiihoats down river for (,r. enwich, Woolwich, Black- wall
Site of Old London Bridge.
St. Magnus, by Wren.
London Bridge.
Fishmongers' Hall.
• Old Shades, famous for its win.1-.
• Steamboats up river to Black-
friars. Chelsea, &c.
All Hallows the More; hand- some screen, presented by Hans merchants. - Steel-vard, site of Hall of Hans Mmhunts, 1250—1660.
Three Crams in the Vintry. Southwark Bridge, p. 44. — Vintners' Hall.
— Queenhitlie. a quay or market, long the rival of Billingsgate.
Of Barnard < astlo. The mstle of Bainardtis, the Nor- man associate of William the rjonqneror, whose name rarriTW also in Bayswaftar,
, Be] n.. id's water. - Puddle Duck.
•J Bleokfrlars Bridge. New Bridge-street, Bleokfrlars,
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
■2'J]
HIGHSTREET, SOUTHWARK.
S 6
J£
River Thames.
St. Saviour's, Southwark, p. 115 +
Site of Bishop of Winchester's Palace, near to which stood the Globe Theatre, in which Shakspeare acted.
St. Margaret's-hill.
N W— — E
S
Union-street.
The Mint; the Alsatia of Southwark.
River Thames.
Railway Stations of 5 separate lines, of Dover, &c, see p. 70.
St. Thomas's Hospital. Guy's Hospital. — St. Thomas's Church.
— Talbot Inn, the Tabard of Chaucer's " Canterbury Tales."
King-street. Site of Marshalsea Prison.
+ st. t.oorge's Church, Soathvark, burial-placo of Hishop Bonner. Rushworth, and Cocker. U2
292
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
THE THAMES. From Battersea to Vauxhall Bridge.
x Battersea Bridge
Battersea Church. Burial-place of Lord Bolinghroke.
Battersea Park.
Red House, famous for pigeon shooting.
— . Site of Sir Thomas Mores house.
a Chelsea Old Church. Burial- ►, place of Sir T. More and Sir 2 Hans Sloane.
Cedars in Botanic Gardens.
Chelsea Hospital. Bridge to Battersea Park.
x St. Barnabas Church.
T. Cubltt's Factory
New Church, built at the Mtfl
expeuea of a Prebendary >>t
Westminster.
Vauxhall Brhl --. p. 17.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
213
THE THAMES.
From Vauxhall Bridge to Hungerford Bridge.
Vauxhall Bridge, p. 47.
Vauxhall Gardens, p. xxxix. —
Lambeth Old Church '- lurial-place of Tradescant and Ashmole.
Lambeth Palace, p. 8.
Lollards' Tower. —
— Penitentiary, p. 14S.
St. John's Church, West- minster.
Westminster Abbey,
— Houses of Parliament.
Westminster Bridge, p. 48.
— Board of Control for Affairs of India
— Richmond- terrace.'
— Montagu House.
— Privy Gardens. Here Sir R. Peel died, p. 23.
— Whitehall Stairs. Scotland Yard. Northumberland House.
Hungerford Bridge, p. 1.3.
L>y4
PRINCIPAL TIIOROUOHKA RBS.
THE THAMES. rrmii Ihmgerford Bridge to Blackfriars BtMgB.
Hungerford Bridge, p, 45.
York House.
— Water-gate, built by Inigo
Jones, for Villiers, D. of Buckingham.
— Adelphi-terrace — in centre
house Garrick died.
— Savoy, p. 120.
— Duchv of Lancaster Office.
x South-Western Railway Station.
Old Lambeth Marsh now built over by Stamford-street.
Waterloo Bridge, p. 40.
— Somerset House, p. 55.
— King's College, p. 192. Sit.' of Arundel House.
— Bite of Essex House.
— Middle Temple Hall.
x Temple Church, p. 117.
— Temple Gardens.
— Paper Buildings (red), Temple.
— WhitclViars. Of Alsatia.
— Site of Salisbury House and
Dorset House.
Fine spire of St. Bride's, bv
Wren, p. 122.
II.,! ltit.h Of s.w.r runs int..
the Thames.
BlaekfriftM Bridge, p. 45.
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
iWo
THE THAMES. From Blackfriars Bridge to London Bridge.
Blackfriars Bridge, p. 45.
i — | x
Times Newspaper Office.
— Pier.
— Site of Blackfriars Theatre.
— Site of Castle Baynard.
x St. Paul's, p. 109.
— Paul's-wharf Pier.
Fine view from river of the spires and towers of churches by Wren. The tallest and handsomest is Bow Church, p. 122.
Queenhithc-
— Vintners' Hall, p. 235.
- Snuthwark Bridge, p. 44.
— Three Cranes in the Vintry.
Barclay's Brewhouse Site of Globe Theatre. — Remains of Winchester Palace.
St. Saviour's Church, p. 115
— Steelyard.
— Shades, famous for its wine.
— Fishmongers' Hall. London Bridge, p. 44.
29G
PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES.
THE THAMES. From London Bridge to Blackwall.
London Bridge, p. 44.
Kotherhithe Church. —
Commercial Docks, p. 69. —
Deptford Dock Yard.
Greenwich Hospital, p. 210.
Trafalgar Tavern. Crown uiul Sceptre. —
•th famous for li.sli dinners
Site of Old London Bridge. - .Monument, p. 228. - Steam-boat l'ier to Gravesend, Margate, and boats too large
fur "above bridge."
Tower of London, p. 70.
Traitors' (iatc.
The large square tower is called the " "White Tower."
— St. Katherine's Docks, p. GG.
— London Docks, p. G7.
Thames Tunnel, p. 47.
West India Docks, p. 07>.
[■la of Doge. Here the Hirer
is very herpentinc.
— Blackwall Bailwav Station.
I ■ ..'s Tavern. famous
for Ban dinners.
|
rling- C. ol (Miss is), ford, ring. |
||
|
E law |
||
|
4^ |
° § i »;- o^ |
|
|
& |
yS oSM".;. |
|
|
y% |
o" - P J. |
6 |
|
Walker-st. |
N. |
llalkin-st |
13, William Scrope. 16, Sir Roderick
Murchison. 18, E.ofEllesmere.
BELGRAVE SQUARE. W. E.
Built 1826—1833.
48, V.Combermcre. 45, D. of Montrose. 41, Arch, of York.
«-s
^
J"
Upper Brook-st.
24,E. of Shaftesbury. 23, E. of Derby.
GROSVENOR SQUARE.
Built 1,'20—1730.
Upp. Grosvenor-st.
\
1
U-. i
c - s ■ I <
- -
•c g
So
Li
i:.
r- E5
7, Earl of Wilton. 6, Joseph Neeld. Fine pictures.
=
li:j*
4
in
298
PRINCIPAL SQUARES.
38, Earl of Jersey.
HM-stlV.-t.
42, Ed. Broughton.
43, Earl of Hadding- ton.
41, ('.Darin- Wall.
Fine staircase by
Kent. 45, Earl of Powis.
The Rreat Lord Clive
died En this house.
N.
BERKELEY SQUARE.
Bldli 17.30—1740.
Lansaowne House
21, E. of Balcarres. Lady Ann Lindsay died in this house.
Bruton-street.
l.-». Mar.of Hertford. Horace Walpole
died at No. 11. Qanter, celebrated
for Ices.
Hay Hill.
Upper Berkeley-st.
26, Lord Garva-li. Fine picture l>y Raphael.
LTpper Seymour-st.
W.
PORTMAN SQUARE.
Built 1790—1800.
Berkc ley-street.
Seymour-street.
PRINCIPAL BQUARE8.
299
|
London Library- Statistical Society. Lichfield House. Late Lord Castle- reagh lived in corner house. 17,D. of Cleveland. " 18. SirW. Wynn. 19, B. of Winchstr. Army and Naw ' Club. |
ll,WyndhamCliil 10, E. of Eglintour 9, Hudson Gurney 8, Lord Stanley. York-street. |
Erechtheum Club. 7/WBbnn. Egertoi (!, Marq. of Bristol |
|
|
N. ST. JAMES'S SQUARE. W. Built 1674-1690. E. Statue of William III. S. |
4, Earl de Grey. Fine Pictures. 2, E. of Falmouth. ~ 23, E. of Dart- mouth. 22, Bp. of London. 21, Norfolk House. Geo.III. born here. |
||
|
i i |
Royal Academy of r Music. -J
Tcnterden-street.
Oriental Club.
20, Earl of Lucan. 'Jl.M/.f Downshire.
Brook-atrwt.
~ _ . it
*S £. © J
W «| j
33" lr/- -
N.
HANOVER SQUARE.
Built 1720— 1730. W. E.
Statue of William by Chantrey.
'itt.
Prince's-street.
Hanover-sq. rooms.
Hanover-street.
300
PRINCIPAL SQUARES.
m . The whole N.
rs'o P sidewastohave £ ^ beeo occupied by the entrance to the town house of the munificent D. of Chandos.
i- 00 >. v
3 >- =
Whole W. side occupied l)y liar- court House, resi- dence of Duke of Portland.
CAVENDISH
SQUARE.
Built 1730— 17G0.
W. statue of William, E.
Duke of Cumberland,
Victor at the
Battle of Culloden, 1748.
Statue of Lord George Bentinck to be placed on South side.
Holies-street, e £g
In No. 24, otj
Lord Byron 2|g|
was born. o &. "
In]
Site of Leicester House. The " Poutiug-place " of two Princes of Wales, -i i 1 I 1 l — Panorama.
To Piccadilly.
Sir Joshua Key- nolds's bouse.
Ilaymarket.
N.
LEICESTER
SQUARE.
W. Built 1070— 1690. E.
Mr. Wyhi's greet ci' 'be
in Centre.
Si Martm'e-eoart Sir [MM Newton'i house and i Rtarjr.
To Covent-garden.
Site of John Hun- ter's bOQM and
moMnm. Sahlonlere Hotel.
In northern half 1 1 garth lived.
-ir.it. In NO, 11 lived
W llett the en-
srer,
PRINCIPAL BQT7ABE8.
301
oho Bazaar.
SOHO SQUARE. . W. Built 1670—1690. E
Statue of Charles II.
J
„v -
: . 3
! en O
3«
Whole south side originally occupied
by Monmouth House.
1 §
Site of * pulled down
Bedford House, H in 1800.
No. 6 was old
Mr. Disraeli's.
BLOOMSBURY
SQUARE.
Built 1690—1710.
W. B
Statue of C.J. Fox,
Sir B.AVrstmacott.
Site of Lord
Mansfield's house,
destroyed In riots
Of 1780.
302
PRINOIPAl ■QUARJGS.
3, Mr. Justice Patteson.
N.
BEDFORD
SQUARE. W. E.
Built 1800—1806.
6, Lord Chancellor Eldon lired here.
7, Sir Hubert Inglis.
to >>
RUSSELL SQUARE.
Built 1800—1806.
W. E.
Btatne <>f i>nke
of Bedford.
by
sir B. Weitmaoott
71. Lord Chancellor
Loughborough
livi M here. i;?. Mr.JnstkeTal-
foord. 65, S ir T hom asL a w -
rence died lure. Mr. HoUbrd*! l'i-
tures here.
IS
if
x m .
2 1.5
35 *
King-street. Built by-
Church of St. Paul's, Covent Garden, built by Inigo Jones.
Henrietta-street.
E* Pi
Inigo Jones. £ 0-<g
Bedford Hotel.
', 03 o OJ
S 2 5 > e £
U * -S ? O -,
COVENT
MARKET.
Built 1630—164
GARDEN E.
Il
Great Russell-st.
© t^ oj •*
?f iff !H
II
fiOD
£ 2
rJ
Great Queen-st Newcastle House at -1 corner. Here lived Lord Chancellor Somers, and the Minister Duke of Newcastle. Lindsey House, (with 2 vases), built by Inigo Jones. Duke-street.
"Whetstone's Park at back. 1
N
LINCOLN S-INN FIELDS.
"Win. Lord Russell beheaded in centre.
Built 1619—1636.
Stone-buildings.
Lincoln's Inn Hall.
To Lincoln's Inn.
-1 1 1 r
Royal College of Surgeon*. Here stood Sir William Davenant's Theatre.
304
PRINCIPAL SQUARES.
|
National Gallery, p. 164, and Royal Academy of Arts, p. 183. Wilkins, arclit. |
1 3D |
Church of St. Martin's-in-the- Fields. Gibbs,archt.,p.l25. |
|
|
Pall-mall East. |
To the Strand. |
||
|
College of Physicians, p. 185. |
Statue of George IV., by Chantrey. TRAFALGAR SQUARE. Built 1829—1850. |
f |
|
|
Union Club, p. 220 |
The Fountains, of Peterhead Granite. n |
Morley's Hotel. |
Cockspur-street.
Nelson Column, p. 253
Char. Cross branch of Gen. Post Office. Letters received later than at other offices.
Statue of Charles I. by Le Soeur. Site of Queen Eleanor's Cross. Place of execution of Regicides.
Whitehall.
©taru antt Calendar
OF
LONDON OCCUEEENCES.
1851-2.
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES. 30";
MAY, 1851.
Th
4 M 6 Tt
W
Th
F 9
S 10 11 SI ! 12 Tu 13 W 14 Th 15
F 16
S r S 18 If
T''
Th 22 F 23
S
s
M Tu
W 28 Th29
F 30 S 31
Crystal Palace opened. British Museum closed from 1st to 7th. National Gallery open from 10 till 6. Meeting of Soc. of Antiquaries at8. Royal Soc. Meeting at half-past8.
Monthly meeting at 4 of Archaeological Institute. Distribu- tion of Prizes at St. Bartholomew's Hospital.
White-bait dinners at Blackwall and Greenwich in full season. Horticultural Fete at Chiswick.
2ntJ £untiay after trinity.
Royal Academy Exhibition opens.
Her .Majesty's Drawing Room. Meeting at 8 of Institution of Civil Engineers.
State Ball at Buckingham Palace.
Meeting of Society of Antiquaries at 8, and of Royal Society at half-past 8. British Museum re-opens", and the Library till Aug. 31st is open daily from 9 till 7.
3rtr 5?unuay after (Trinity.
Her Majesty s Concert at Buckingham Palace.
Meeting at 8 of Institution of Civil Engineers.
General Exhibition at Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park.
Her Majesty's Drawing-room. Meeting of Society of Anti- quaries at 8, and of Royal Society at half-past 8. Festival in St. Paul's of Sons of Clergy.
Sir E. Bulwer Lytton's new Play acted before the Queen and Prince Albert by Mr. Dickens, &c.,at Devonshire House.
4tlj Sunuay after trinity.
Her Majesty^ Concert at Buckingham Palace.
Epsom Races commence. Meeting at 8 of Institution of
Civil Engineers. Derby day at Epsom. Meeting of Ethnological Society at
17, Savile-row, at 8. Meeting of Soc. Antiquaries at 8, and of Roy. Soc. at half-past 8. Oaks day at Epsom. Her Majesty's Birth-day— kept May 31st.
Sorption 5untiay.
Conversazione of the President of the Institution of Civil Engineers at 25, Great George-street, Westminster, at 9.
Her Majesty's Levee.
Restoration of Charles II. Speaker of the House of Commons w.nt in State to St. Margaret's Church, W.-stnnusU-r. Meeting of Society of Antiquaries at 8.
Her Majesty's Birth-day kept: the Knights of the several Orders appear in their collars. Review in St. James's Park. Exhibition of American Plants at Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park. Soirt'e of the President of the Royal Society.
x 2
308
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES.
JUNE, 1851.
S M To
W
Th
Tu W
Th F
S
s
M
Tr W
Tu
&urrtiag aftrv 3scrnsion.
Ascot Races commence. Last four days ; the great day is Thursday.
Sons of the Clergy at St. Paul's (fine sipfht). Meeting of Society of Antiquaries at 8, and of Royal Society for Election of Fellows. Ascot Cup day at Ascot Races.
Monthly meeting, at 4, of Archaeological Institute, at 26, Suffolk-street, Pall-mall East.
Exhibition of American Plants at Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park. Horticultural Fete at Chiswiek. Annual Visitation of the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, and dinner afterwards at" the Crown and Sceptre, Greenwich.
URSttjiX Suntoag.
Whit Monday. Greenwich Fair, and much fun in Greenwich Park. British Museum open every day in the week except Saturday.
General Exhibition at Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park.
The Queen's Fancy Ball at Buckingham Palace. Last Soiree of the President of the Royal Society at 9.
Ertnttg JSimtag.
Celebration of Battle of "Waterloo. Grand dinner at Apsley House to the officers who fought at Waterloo. Meeting of Ethnological Society at 17, Savilc-row, at 8.
Meeting of Society of Antiquaries at 8, and of Royal Society :it half-past 8, and adjournment till Nov. 20th".
Rose Garden Exhibition, at Royal Botanic Society's, Regents Park.
S
M Tr
\V Tu F
S
1st Sfaritag after QDrimtg,
Midsummer Day. Election in Guildhall of the Sheriff's of Loudon and Middlesex for the ensuing year.
2ntJ SuntJau aftrv Crinito.
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES. 309
|
JULY, 1851. |
||
|
Tu |
1 |
|
|
W |
2 |
General Exhibition, at Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park. |
|
Th F |
3 4 |
Dog Days begin, and end Aug. 11th. Meeting at Ipswich of the British Association for the Advancement of Science. |
|
S S M |
5 6 7 |
3rtl ^imuag after £rmitg. |
|
Tu |
8 |
|
|
W Th |
9 10 |
Her Majesty at a Grand Ball and Banquet in Guildhall. |
|
F |
11 |
|
|
S |
12 |
|
|
S |
18 |
z\t\) 5tmuag aftrr Crtmtrj. |
|
M |
14 |
Royal Agricultural Society's Show at Windsor. |
|
Tu |
15 |
St. Swithin, a rainy and influential Saint in England. |
|
\V |
16 |
|
|
Th |
17 |
|
|
F |
18 |
|
|
S |
19 |
Horticultural F8te at Chiswick. The Duke of Devonshire's grounds usually open to visitors to the Fete. |
|
S M |
•20 21 |
5t\) Stmtiag after £rimtg. |
|
Tu |
22 |
|
|
W |
23 |
|
|
Th |
24 |
|
|
F |
■23 |
|
|
S |
•_v, |
|
|
S |
■-'7 |
Otfj &unuarj after £rimtg. |
|
M |
88 |
|
|
Tu W Th |
89 90 31 |
Goodwood Races. The Lord Mayor and Corporation go Swan-Upping in state barges on the Thames from London to Staines, either in this month or in August— a pretty sight. |
310
CALENDAR OF LO.vpoy orcURnrv r-
AUGUST, 1851.
6
S
M Tu
w
Tu F
S
s
M
Tr W Tu F
M
Tu
\V
'I'n
F
S
3
M
Tu
YV
Tm
I'
Accession of the House of Hanover to the British Throne. Doggott's Coat and Badge rowed for on the Thames ; a pretty sight.
7tlj 5untiay after {Trinity.
Final heat of Champion Sculls on the Thames.
Strj Suntiag after Crtm'tg.
Dog Days end.
London emptier than ever. Grouse shooting begins.
9trj j&imtiaD aftfr Crtnitg. Birthday of the Duchess of Kent, the mother of the Queen.
I0t 1) &mriM| aftrr (Trinity.
Prinee Albert'! birthday.
llth iritnuay after Mnntty.
CALENDAR of LONDON OCCURRBN* B8. 3U
SEPTEMBER, 1851.
1 London very empty. Partridge 6hooting begins. British Museum closed till 8th. Tu 2
"W 3 Bartholomew Fair opens. Th 4 F 5 S
s Iff
Ti W IC
I2tfj Suntiarj after iTriratg.
British Museum re-opens from 10 to 4 till May 7th. The Library is open from 9 till 4.
Tu 26
-'7
Tu
90
13tfj SuntJag after iTrimtg.
Doncaster Eaces commence. National Gallery closed till Nov. 1st.
Speech Day at Christ's Hospital on 21st. St. Mattln
l^tfj gtnttag after vTrinitg.
York Column Staircase closed. The Column is open from April 1st to Sept. 24th.
I5trj Simfcag after £rtnitg.
Michaelmas Day. Election of Lord Mayor for the ensuing year. The Lord Mayor and Corporation attend Dirlne service at St. Lawrence's Church, in King-stiv t. ( 'heap- side, and dine at Mansion House.
New Sheriffs of London and Middlesex sworn in .r minster Hall.
312
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES.
|
OCTOBER, 1851. |
|||
|
W |
1 |
Pheasant Shooting hcgins. The National Gallery is during the whole of this month. |
closed |
|
Til |
2 |
||
|
F |
3 |
||
|
S |
4 |
||
|
S |
5 |
lOtfj jhtntag aftrr iTrinttg. |
|
|
M |
6 |
||
|
Tu |
7 |
||
|
w |
8 |
||
|
Tu |
9 |
||
|
F |
10 |
||
|
S |
11 |
||
|
S |
IS |
IZtfj Suntoag after (Frinitg. |
|
|
M |
13 |
||
|
Tu |
14 |
||
|
W |
15 |
||
|
Tu |
it; |
||
|
F |
17 |
||
|
S |
18 |
||
|
S |
10 |
IStrj Suntoag after trinitg. |
|
|
M |
20 |
||
|
Tu |
21 |
||
|
W |
28 |
||
|
Th |
23 |
||
|
F |
M |
||
|
S |
25 |
||
|
S |
M |
lOtTj Suntoag aftrr trinitg. |
|
|
M |
27 |
||
|
Tu |
28 |
||
|
W |
29 |
||
|
Th |
80 |
• |
|
|
F |
■M |
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES. 313
|
NOVEMBER, 1851. |
|
|
S 1 |
National Gallery re-opens from 10 till 5 till May 1st. Dul- |
|
wich Gallery open between 11 and 3. |
|
|
S 5 |
20tfj Suntoajj aftrv JTrinitg. |
|
M S |
i |
|
Tu 4 |
i |
|
-w I |
> Guy Fawkes' Day or Gunpowder Plot Day. Great bonfires |
|
and fireworks at night. |
|
|
Til ( |
|
|
F ' |
' |
|
S I |
3 |
|
S I |
) 2lst Glinting after CvinttU. Prince of Wales's birth-day. |
|
M 1 |
) Lord Mayor's-day. Grand dinner at Guildhall. |
|
Tu 1 |
1 |
|
W 1 |
I |
|
Th l |
1 |
|
F 1 |
1 |
|
S 1 |
5 |
|
S i |
6 22ntJ Sfanbag after (Trinitg. |
|
M 1 |
7 |
|
Tu 1 |
B |
|
W 1 |
1 |
|
Tn 2 |
g Meeting of Society of Antiquaries at 8. |
|
F 2 |
1 |
|
S 2 |
2 |
|
s 2 |
3 23rtJ Stinting aflrr QTrinttg. |
|
M 2 |
4 |
|
Tu 2 |
5 |
|
W - |
6 |
|
ThS |
7 |
|
F 2 |
8 |
|
S 2 |
9 Anniversary Meeting Of Royal Society ("for 30th). |
|
S s |
0 &uumt £linuay. Crystal Palace to be taken down, |
|
pursuant to contract. |
314
i M.I'M'.M: (IF LONDON 0CCTRR1-'N"<T>.
|
DECEMBER. 1851. |
||
|
M |
1 |
|
|
Tu |
•_> |
|
|
W |
3 |
|
|
Tu |
4 |
|
|
F S s |
5 6 7 |
Play of Terence's performed at Westminster School. 2nto Suntoag in Sbbtttt. |
|
M |
s |
|
|
Tu |
!> |
|
|
W Th |
LO 11 |
Smithfield Club Cattle Show, at the Baker-street Bazaar, opens about this time. Annual Distribution of P at Royal Academy of Arts. |
|
F S |
12 13 |
Founder's Day at Charter House. |
|
s M |
1! us |
3rU &unuan in "Stobrnt. |
|
Tu |
16 |
|
|
W |
17 |
|
|
Tu |
18 |
|
|
F |
19 |
|
|
S |
20 |
|
|
S |
81 |
4$ 5uniJao in •Stobrnt. st. Thomas's Dsy. Blectiea of Common Councilmen in the City. |
|
M |
22 |
The butchers' shops full of the finest prize meat |
|
Tu |
23 |
|
|
\V |
24 |
Christmas Ere. Bot» bella commence ringing at 9. |
|
Tu F |
25 21 i |
Christmas Day. |
|
S |
87 |
|
|
S M |
•-•s 2! |
1st Simtoag after Christmas. |
|
Tu W |
31 |
Wesleyans InChspel watch out the Old v. *r, la 1 1 1 \ in it Of PrsiM at U "'clock. |
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES.
315
JANUARY, 1852.
British Museum closed from 1st to 7th of January.
|
Th 1 |
British Mu |
|
F S |
|
|
S I |
I |
|
S < |
I |
|
M { |
|
|
Tu ( |
3 |
|
W ' |
■ |
|
Tn |
1 British Mi |
|
F |
! |
|
S 1 |
I |
|
S i |
l |
|
M 1 |
2 |
|
Tu 1 |
3 |
|
W 1 |
i |
|
Th 1 |
3 |
|
F 1 |
6 |
|
S 1 |
7 |
|
S l |
8 |
|
M 1 |
9 |
|
Tu2 |
0 |
|
w a |
1 |
|
th a |
2 |
|
r a |
3 |
|
B 2 |
4 |
|
S - |
5 |
|
U - |
6 |
|
1 ■- |
7 |
|
w ■- |
8 |
|
Th 5 |
!9 |
|
F i |
50 Anniverss |
|
s i |
Jl |
Anniversary of Execution of Charles I.
316
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES.
|
FEBRUARY, 1852. |
||
|
s |
1 |
|
|
M |
a |
|
|
Tu |
8 |
|
|
W |
4 |
|
|
Th |
5 |
|
|
F |
8 |
|
|
S |
7 |
|
|
S |
8 |
|
|
M |
9 |
|
|
Tv |
in |
|
|
W |
11 |
|
|
Th |
L2 |
|
|
F |
13 |
|
|
S |
14 |
|
|
S |
15 |
|
|
M |
16 |
|
|
Tu |
17 |
|
|
W |
L8 |
|
|
Th |
i:t |
|
|
F |
20 |
|
|
S |
21 |
|
|
S |
22 |
|
|
M |
28 |
|
|
Tu |
24 |
|
|
W |
•J:, |
|
|
Tu |
26 |
|
|
F |
27 |
|
|
S |
28 |
|
|
S |
29 |
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES. 317
|
MARCH, |
1852. |
||
|
M |
1 |
St. David's Day. |
|
|
Tu |
a |
||
|
W |
3 |
||
|
Th |
4 |
||
|
F |
6 |
||
|
S |
6 |
||
|
S |
7 |
||
|
M |
8 |
||
|
Tc |
9 |
||
|
W |
10 |
||
|
Th |
11 |
||
|
F |
IS |
||
|
S |
13 |
||
|
s |
14 |
||
|
M |
15 |
||
|
Tc |
16 |
||
|
W |
17 |
St. Patrick's Day. |
|
|
Th |
18 |
||
|
F |
IS |
||
|
S |
30 |
||
|
S |
■21 |
||
|
M |
28 |
||
|
Tc |
23 |
||
|
W |
24 |
||
|
Th |
26 |
||
|
F |
26 |
||
|
S |
27 |
||
|
S |
•_>s |
||
|
M |
-.".< |
||
|
Tu |
80 |
||
|
W |
31 |
318
CALENDAR OF LONDON OCCURRENCES.
|
APRIL, 1852. |
||
|
T.i F |
1 2 |
York Column open from this day till the 24th of September. Dulwich Gallery open from 10 till 5 till 1st of November. |
|
S |
3 |
|
|
s |
•1 |
|
|
M |
.-> |
|
|
T |
G |
|
|
W |
7 |
|
|
Th |
« |
Maunday Thursday. |
|
F S |
D 10 |
Good Friday. |
|
S |
11 |
Easter Sunday. |
|
M Tu W |
is 13 11 |
Easter Monday > _ _ m , > Greenwich Fair. Easter Tuesday > |
|
Th |
16 |
|
|
F |
L6 |
|
|
S |
17 |
|
|
s |
18 |
|
|
M |
19 |
|
|
Tu |
90 |
|
|
W |
21 |
|
|
Th |
99 |
|
|
F |
23 |
Anniversary Meeting of Society of Antiquaries. |
|
S |
•21 |
|
|
S |
25 |
|
|
M |
96 |
|
|
Tu |
27 |
|
|
W |
98 |
|
|
Th |
•_".! |
|
|
F |
11 |
INDEX.
A.
Abney Park Cemetery, 132
Addison, Joseph, last moments of, 19
Adelphi Theatre, 177
Admiralty, the, 54, 56
Albert, H.R.H. Prince; collection of pictures exhibited by, 8
Aldersgate-street, Plan of, 288
Almack's Assembly Rooms, 180
Ambassadors' residences, xlviii
Anglesea. Marquis of; his man- sion, 20
Anne, Queen, 4 ; and her hus- band, 8
Antiquaries, Society of, 56, 1S7 ; library and museum, 188
Apothecaries' Hall, 236
Apsley House, 9 ; pictures, &c, 10
Archaeological and antiquarian at- tractions, xliv
Architectural notabilities, xlii.xliii
Architects, British, Institute of, 188; admission fees, 189
Architects Works in London; list of 84.
Armourers' Company, 237
Army ; regulations relative to en- listments, pay, &c, 53
Army and Navy Club, 216
Artillery Ground, 238
Asiatic Society, 190
Ashburton, Lord ; mansion of, 20
Astley's Theatre, 178
Astronomical Society, 191
Athenaeum Club, 219
Audit Office, 55
Bank of England ; its origin, 59 ; its ingenious weighing and printing machines, 60, 01
Bancroft, Francis ; glazed coffin of, 119
Barber Surgeons' Hall, 237
Barclay and Perkins's brewery, 75; origin of the firm, 76
Barnabas (St.) Church, Pimlico, and Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, 127
Bartholomew the Great (St.) church of, 115
Batholomew's (St.) Hospital, 203 ; enormous quantities of medica- ments used, 204-5; its lec- turers, &c, 205
Bath House, its fine collection of pictures, 20, 21
Baths and Wash-houses, 214
Battersea Park, 34
Bavarian Chapel. LIS
Bedford-square, Plan of, 302
Belgrave-squaiv, Plan of, 297
Belgravia, xi
Berkeley-square, Plan of, 298
Bethlehem Hospital for Lunatics, 206; notorious inmates, Ml
Billingsgate Market, 72. 7.)
Birth-places of eminent persons, 239
BiBhopsgate-itrsai, rian of, 289
Blackmara Bridge. 16
Blind, Schools and Asvlums for the. 214
Bloomsbury-squ.iiv, Plan of, 301
Botanical Gardens, Regent's-park, 34 ; Kew, 36
320
INDEX.
Bow-street, Coveut-gardeu, Plan
of, 281 Bow Church, and Bow hells, 122 Breweries, 75, 76
Bride's (St.) Church, Fleet-street, 122 ; source of Wren's idea of its construction, 123 Bridewell, City Prison, 145; Hol- bein's Picture, 146 Bridges over the Thames ; London, 44; Southwark, ib. ; Black- friars, 45 ; llungerford, ib. ; Waterloo, 46; Westminster, ih. ; Vauxhall, 47 Bridgewater House and its Picture
Gallery, 17, 18 British Museum, mode of admis- sion to the Beading Room, 149-51 ; ground plan, 150 ; origin and progress of the Museum, 151 ; Egyptian an- tiquities, 152; Nineveh mar- bles, 153 ; Etruscan Boom, ib.; Elgin marbles, 154-5 ; Phiga- lian and Lycian marbles, 156 ; Townley collection, 157 ; Port- land Vase and its mishaps, 157-8; modem marbles, 158; Romano-British antiquities, 159; library of printed books, 159 ; reading-room regula- tions, 160 ; manuscripts, 160-61; prints, drawings, &c, 161-62; zoological collection, 162-4 Brompton Cemetery, 132 Brooks's Club, 217 Brunei, Sirl.K., great engineer- ing work by, 47 Buccleuch, Duke of, his town
mansion, 14 Buckingham Palace, juggle in which it originated, subse- quent alterations, iVc, l, 2 ; its chief pictures, 9, 8 Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, US; its chief tenants, 188: enormous number Interred there, 134 Burial places of eminent persons,
240-244 Burials in London, 130-1 Burlington House, 21; Hogarth's
caricature, 98 Byron, Wm., 5th Lord; scene of his duel with Mr. Chaworth, 256
C.
Cabs, regulations relative to, xxix, xxx
Camberwell Church, 127
Canova, characteristic anecdote of, 46
Canterbury, Archbishops of, addi- tions "to Lambeth Palace by, 8 9
Carlton Club, 217
Carlton Ride Records, 58
Carpenters1 Hall, 288
Cavendish, Hon. Chas., mansion of, 21
( lavendish-sqnare, Plan of, 300
Ca\sar, Sir .hilius; his curious monument and epitaph, 119
Cemeteries and Burial Grounds, 130, 133
Chancery, Inns of, 143
Chancery-lane, 278; Plan, 279
Chapter House, Westminster, 58
Charing Cross to Westminster Abbey, Plan, 283
Charing Cross Hospital, 212
Charitable Institutions and Hospi- tals, 203, 214
Charles I., parting with his child- ren, 4 ; his execution, 6, 7 ; vicissitudes of the Charing Cross statue, 254
Charles II. born, 4; statue of, 254
Charter-House School and Hospi- tal, 195; the poor brethren, 196
Cheapside, description of, 87S : Plan, 273
Chelsea Hospital, 209
Chesterfield House, IS; its associ- ations, 18,19
Christ's Hospital, 186; its notabi- lities, 187 : eminent scholars, 197-8; mode of admission, 188.
Churches and Places of Worship, Cathedral and Episcopal. '.'_>.
127; Dissenting. ISM!
man Catholic, r_'S ; 1<
188: Jews, 130 City of London School, 201 City the, and the City Halls and
Companies, 888 -888. \i City Prison, llolloway, 149 Citj Road. 880
Clayton, Mr.; his aquatic feat. IS Clement's Inn. and its
Bona, 1 1 ) Clerkenwell BetJkffli House, 137
in hi: a.
321
Clothworkers' Hall, 235
Clubs and Club Houses, 215—222
Coal Exchange, 09 ; number of Seamen employed in the Trade, 70
Cocknev, traditional origin of the epithet, 224
Cold Bath Fields House of Correc- tion, 148
College, v., Heralds, 186
College of Physicians. (See Phy- sicians.)
College of Surgeons. (See Surgeons.)
Colleges and Schools, 191 — 202
Colliers, Regulations of the port of London relative to, 44
Colonial Office, 49
Commercial buildings, banks, &c, 59, 70. (-See the various heads under which same are placed.)
Commercial Docks, 69
Companies of London, and their Halls, 229—238
Conservative Club, 21S
Corn Exchange, 69
Cornhill, description of, 274 ; Plan, 275
Cornwall, Duchy of, office of the, 55
County Courts, 137
Courts of Law and Justice. 134 — 137
Covent Garden Market, 73; plan of, 303
Covent Garden Opera House, 176
Cowper, the poet, suicidal inten- tions of, 50
Cromwell, Oliver, last moments of, 132 j his inauguration, 135
Crystal Palace, description of the, xlix. — lvi.
Custom House, 49
D.
Danish CecbCH, 129
Deaf and Dumb, Asylum for the,
214 Debtors' Prisons, 149 Delafield, Mr.; ruinous experience
of, as an Opera-house lessee,
176 Design, Government School of, 202 I tevonshire House, its pictures and
literary treasures, IS Dining and Supper places, xxxiii
— xxxvii Diorama, xxxvi
Dissenters' Chapels, 127-8 Docks; West India, East India,
St. Katherine's, London, Com- mercial, 65 — 69
Domesday Book, 58
Drapers' Hall and Gardens, 231
Dreadnought, Seamens' Hospital Ship, 214
Drury-lane (the street so called) : ancient state of, 276 ; plan, 277
Drury-lane Theatre, 1 7tJ
Dulwich Gallery of Paintings, 168 : its chief pictures, 169
Dupin, M., on Waterloo Bridge, 4ii
E.
East India Docks, 66
East India House, 64; museum and notabilities, 65
Electric Telegraph, xvii
Ellesmere, Earl of; his mansion and gallery, 17
Eminent persons ; London birth- places of, 239 ; burial places, 240—244 ; dwelling places, 244—249
Engineers, Civil; Institution of, 188
Events, remarkable, 249—253
Exchequer, office of the, 49
Excise Office, 50, 55
Exeter Hall, 180
Exhibition, Tbx, xlix
Exhibition of the Koyal Academv. 183.
Exhibitions in general, xxxvi (<SW Museums.)
P.
Farrixgdox Market, 74 Fishmongers' Hall, 231 Fish-street-hill, Plan of, 289 Flaxman Museum, 192 Fleet Prison, the late, 149 Fleet-street. 270 ; Plan of, 271 Foreign Churches and Chapels.
128, 129 Foreign Office, 49 Foundling Hospital, 212; me
Chapel. 218 Free Exhibitions. (See Museums.) Free Boi pital, 212 French Protestant Church, 129 French Pom. Catholic Chapel,
129
322
INDEX.
Garrick Club, 220; its pictures 221
Gas, introduction of, 256
Geographical Society, 190
Geological Society, 190
Geology (Practical), Museum of, 174
George's (St.), Roman Catholic Cathedral, 128
George's (St.), Church. Hanover- square, 126
George's (St.), Hospital, 208
George II. and his Queen, 4, 8; junction of their remains, 97
George, III., statue of, 254
(icorgc IV. horn, 4, statue of, 254
German Lutheran Church and Chapel, 129
Giles (St.), Church, Cambcrwell, 127
Globe (Wyld's), xxxvi
Goldsmiths' Hall, 232
Gospel, Society for the Propaga- tion of the, 256
Government Offices and Establish- ments, 48,-59
Gracechurch-street, Plan of, 289
Gray's Inn. and Gray's Inn Gar- dens, 143
Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn- ficlds, Plan of, 282
Green Park, 31 ; objects to be ob- served, 82
Greenwich Hospital and Hall, 210; the Chapel, &c, 211
Greenwich Park, and the Astro- nomical Observatory, 34, 35
Grocers' Hall, 230
Grosvenor House, its pictures, &c, 15
nor-placc, Plan of, -2s~> nor-square, Plan of, 297
Guards' Club, 216
Guildhall. 226; its Btatues, &c., 296
Gny*B Hospital, 208
ii.
1 1 Mi.!;!' L8HBR8' 11 I
Haiiowcii, Capt, hii present to Lord Neh 1 18
llanovcr-si|Uar.', I'lan of, 288
Harcourt Honse,22 ll.tyiiiarkti tlic street BO called . Plan of, 284
Haymarket Theatre, 177
Helen's (St.), Bishopsgate, and its interesting monuments, 118, 119
Heralds' College, 186; objects of interest there, 187
Hertford House, and pictures, 22
Hervey. John, Lord; scene of his duel with Pulteney, 32
Highgate Cemetery, 132
High-street, Soutliwark, Plan of. 291
Highwayman, exploit of a, 16
II ill's i Rowland) Chapel, 128
Holborn and Its eminent residents, 266 ; Plan of, 267
Holford, l.\ 3n 1 ; . mansion and pictures of, 26
Holland House and its successive owners, and anecdotes con- nected with it, 19; epitaph of the late Lord, 20
Hope, H. T., Esq. M.P., mansion 23; his picture gallery. Jl mode of admission, 25
Horse Guards, 53
Horsemonger-lane Gaol, 146
Horticultural Society, 1SU
Hospitals and Charitable Institu- tions, 207
Hotels, xxxiii
Houses and dwelling-places of eminent persons, 244-48
Houses of Correction. 1 is
Houses of Parliament, 36-41 ; mode of admission to hear d< 41
Humane Society, Royal, 214
Hungerford Market. 71
Hnngerford Suspension P. ridge, 46
Hyde Park, -J7 : plan. 28; its at- tractions. 27 29
Inland Ki.vrNn. »>i :
Inns of Court and Chancorv.
L88-M Institute of Architects, 188 Institution of Civil BngbM Institutions and Societies, 181-91 [ntramural burials, hon
I ". 131 Ironmongers' Hall, 286 Italian Opera Houm ■: Her Ma- jesty's Theatre, 175 : Corent < I)., ra, 178
INDEX.
J.
James's (St.) Chcbch, Piccadilly, 124; its font by Gibbons, 124 James's (St.) Theatre, 178 James's (St.) Palace, 4 ; drawing- rooms, levees, &c, mode of presentation, &c, 4, 5 James's (St.) Park : its history, 29-31 ; plan, 30 ; objects to be observed, 31 James's (St.) Square, Plan of, 229 James's (St.) Street and its nota- bilities, 202 Jekyll, the Wit, anecdote of, 135 Jews' Synagogue, Great Saint
Helens, 130 Johnson, Dr., at Thrale's Brewcrv,
76 Judges, salaries of the, 184 Junior United Service Club, 216
Kathf.rixe's (St.) Docks, 66 Katherine's (St.) Hospital. 34 Kensal Green Cemetery and its
tenants, 131 Kensington Palace, 7 ; its German
pictures, 8 Kensington Gardens and the Ser- pentine, 35, 36 Kew Botanical Gardens, 36 King's College and School, 192; educational arrangements, 193 King's College Hospital, 213 Kneller, Sir Godfrey, his dying observation, 109
L
Lamb, Charles, Che real works of, 65
Lambeth Palace, its early and present state, its attractions, 8,9
Lansdowne House, its sculpture and pictun
Leadenhall Market, 71
Learned Societies and Institu- tions, 181-91
Leicester-square, Plan of, 300
Letters, postage of. (See Post Office.)
Lincoln's Inn, 141 ; its chapel, hall, and library, 142
Lincoln's-Inn-fields, Plan I
Linnaan Society, 191
Lloyd's Booms, 61 j Lloyd's Re- gister, 89
Lock Hospital, Chapel, and Aey- lum, 213
Lodgings, xxxi
London, geographical position of; its population, ix ; supplies of food, sewerage, &&, x. ; its boundaries— Westminster. xi.; Tyburnia and Belgravia. xii.; Regent's Park, .Maryle- bone and Piloomsbury, xiii. : "The City," xiii., xiv."; Spital- ficlds and Bethnal Gr Clerkenwell and Islington— the Surrey side, xv. ; bearings of the streets, xv., xvi.; how to see the Metropolis, and objects of interest on tlie vari- ous routes, xvii— xxiii; the Thames, and objects on it^ banks, xxiii— xxviii.; best time for seeing London— what to avoid, xxviii. ; cat) fares and regulations, xxix., xxx. ; omnibuses, xxxi., xxxii. : hotels and lodgings, xxxiii— xxxv.: restaurants and dining houses, xxxvi.; supper! xxxvii. > .■: Post < Mtiee. Exhibitions, Panoramas, Re- markable Places. &C.
London and North Western Rail- way Station, 70
London, Bishops of, Residence of the, 9
London Bridge, 44 ; Port of Lon- don, its extent, 48
London Bridge Railway Station, 70
London Docks, ("7 : the Wine Stores, 68
London Hospital, 212
London Library, terms of subscrip- tion, 191
Lord Mayor's Show, j-J 1
Lyceum Theatre. 177
Lyons' Inn. 1 1 1
M
MAGDALEN Iio-riTA'. 918
Hagnns (St.) Church, London Bridge, 123
Mansion House, the, 224 Markets, 70—75
324
INDEX.
Mnrl bo rough House and Vernon
Gallery, 167-8 Martin-in-tbe-Fields (St.) Church,
125; eminent persons buried
in, 126 Martin, John, the painter, 43 Martin's St. i Hall, 180 Marylebone (St.) Church, 126 Marv-le-Bow (St.) Church, Cheap- side, 122 Mary-le-Savoy (St.), Strand, 120 Marv Woolnoth (St.) Church, 125 Mary's (St.) Hospital, 212 Mary's (St.) Roman Catholic
Chapel, 128 Mercers' Hall and Chapel, 280 Merchant Tailors' Hall, 234 Merchant Tailors' School, 109; charge for education, 200 ; eminent scholars, 201 Millbank Prison, 148 Mint, the Royal, mode of admission
to, &c, 57 Missionaries' Museum, 175 Model Prison, 148 Money Orders. {See Post Ollice.) Montague House, its portraits and
miniatures, 15 Monument, the, on Fish-street Hill, 228; suicides from its gallery, 229 Museums and Galleries of Art, to which admission is free, 149 — 175. (See British Museum, Dulwich G alien-, Geological Museum, Missionaries' Mu- seum, National Gallery, Soane Museum, Surgeons' College, United Service Museum, Yn- non Gallery. Also the various Institutions and Societies.) Musical Performances, xxxix. Munro, H. A. -J., Esq., pictures of, 26
V
Nahh.f.ox's Wn.r., 58
National Gallery,Trafalg&rj-square,
164 : chief pictures, 160-6 ;
English Bchool of Paintings,
167 Nelson. Lord, his only interview
with Wellington, 48 : Capl .
Hallow-ell's present to him,
US; column to his memory,
as i
Nelson, Loci: dress irqva i>v him
at the liattle .,f Trafalgar. 211
New River, 77 New Road, 280 Newgate Market, 74 Newgate Prison, 145 Newgate-street, Plan of, 287 Norfolk House, and its historical
records and pictures, 14 Northumberland House, 10 ; its
successive names and owners,
11 : pictures and objects of
interest, 11, 12 Norwood Cemetery, 132 Nnnhead Cemetery, 132
<>.
Old Bailey Sessions 11' : Omnibus Routes, xxxi, xxxii. Ordnance Offices, 54 Opera Houses, 175, 176 ; Mr. Dela-
field's enormous losses, 176 Oxford and Cambridge Cluh, 220 Oxford-street, description of, 280
Paixtkk Staixkls' Hall, 238
Palaces of the Sovereign : — Buck- ingham, 1-3 ; St. James's, 4, 5; Whitehall, 5-7 ; Kens- ington, 7, 8
Pall Mall, and its celebrities, 256; Plan. 269
Pancras-in-thc-riehls. St., Old Church and Monuments, ii:1. ISO; New Church, i-'t>, 127
Panoramas and Miscellaneous In- hibitions, xxxviii, xxxix.
Park Lane, Plan of, 286
Parks, Gardens, fto. : — Hyde, 87- 29 ; St. James's, "29-31 ; Green, 81,88; Regents', 88- ."■i : Victoria, 84 ; Batterwa, 84 ; Greenvi Ich, 84 : Richmond, .:."> : Kensington, 86; Keu. Bd; Zoological, 88, 180 : Surrey Zoological, 181
Passports, where and huw obtain -
able, LB Paul's (St.x,, Cathedral, 109; ground Plan, 110; its history,
111 : spoliation of Wren's de- sign by .lames I I., 1 T_' ; mo- numents, us, 113 ; thick room, whispering gallery, »ve.. 1 1 1 Paul's ,t Gardi n,
church and parish rsgtster, 181
JN'DEX.
325
Paul's (St.), School, 193 ; eminent scholars, 194
Paymaster General's Office, 52
Peel, Sir Robert, mansion and pictures of, 23; room in which the late Sir Robert died, 42
Penitentiary and Pentonville Prison, 148
Peter the Great's Mulberry Tree, 70 ; his lawyers, 135
Physicians, College of, 185-6
Piccadilly and its eminent inha- bitants, &c, 258-260; Plan of, 261
Pictures, collections of, public and private, xxxviii, xl. xli
Places which visitors ought to see, xliv. — xlvii
Pleasure Seeker's List, xxxviii, xxxix
Police Courts, City and Metro- politan, 137
Police Establishment, particulars of the, 138
Poor-Law Commission Office, 56
Portland, Duke of, his town man- sion, 22
Portman-square, Plan of, 298
Post Office, 50 ; income and extent of the office, 51 ; money orders, ib.; general directions, 52; postal regulations, xxxii
Poultry, The Plan of, 273
Prerogative Will Office, 58 and note
Princess's Theatre, 180
Prisons, Gaols, &c, 145-49
Property-Tax Office, 50
Pnlteney, scene of his duel with Lord Hervey, 32
Queen's Bench Prison, Id Queensbury, Duke and Duchess of, 20
K.
Record Offices, 58
Reform Club, 219
Regent's Park, origin and history
of, 32; Plan, 33; notabilities,
34 Regent-street, description of, 264 ;
Plan, 265 Registrar General's Office, 56
Remarkable Events, places and sites connected with, 219,-253
Restaurants, xxxii
Richmond Park, :-;:>
Rogers, Samuel, Esq., Ibmse and Pictures of, 25; mode of ad- mission. L'l)
Roman Catholic Cathedral and Chain
Rothschild, Karon Lionel de, Pic- tures and articles of vertu of, 26
Rothschild's Pillar, Royal Ex- change, 61
Roubiliac, the Sculptor, instance of enthusiasm in, 100
Royal Academy of Arts, 56, 183-5
Royal Academy of Music, 185
Royal Exchange, 61 ; Lloyd's Rooms and Register, 62 ; the first Exchange, 63
Royal Humane Society, 214
Royal Institution of Great Britain, 189
Royal Pers nages, statues of, 254
Royal Socic ty, 56, 181 ; its por- traits, &c, 182
Royal Society of Literature, 189
Russel-square, Plan of, 302
I
Saddlers' ITatx, 238
Sadler's Wells Theatre, 178
Salters' Hall, 235
Sardinian Chapel, 128
Saviour's (St.) Church, 115; ac- tors and poets buried in, 116.
Savoy Chapel, 120; Savoy Confer- ence, 121
School of Design, 202
Schools and Colleges, 191—202
Scottish Churches, 128
Sculpture to be seen, xli
Seamen's Hospital Ship, 214
Silwvn, George, anecdote of, 19
Sewerage of London, 78
Shakspeare's Will, 58
Sheepshanks, John, Esq., pictures, Ac., 26
Skinners' Hall, 233
Smithfield Market. 7". 78
Soane Museum, mode of admis- sion, 172 ; objects of interest, 17_'-1.
Societies and Institutions, 181—191
Soho-square, 301
Soho Theatre. 180
326
Somerset House and its offices, 55, 56; the watch legend- number of windows, 56, 57
Southwark Bridge, 45
Spanish Chapel, 128
Spencer House, 32
Stables, Royal; how to obtain admission to view them, 2
Stafford House ; its architecture, pictures, &c, 13; rent, cost, &c, 14
Stamps and Taxes, office of, 50
Staple Inn, 144
State Paper Office ; mode of access to papers in the, 53
Sfationers' Hall, 236-7
Statistical Society, 191
Statues of Royal and eminent personages, 254-5
Steaks Club, 222
Steamboats on the Thames ; when first seen, 42
Steevens, George ; eccentric habit of, 144
Stephen's (St.) Church, Walbrook, 123
Stephen's (St.) Church, West- minster, 127
Stock Exchange, 63; mode of elec- tion, &c, 64
Strand, the, and its ancient inhabi- tants, 268 ; plan, 269
Streets and thoroughfares of Lon- don ; hints and suggestions, xv — xxii.; plans and descrip- tions of the principal, 255— 304
Surgeons, College of; mode of admission to the museum, 170; anatomical collection, 171
Surrey Chapel (late Rowland Hill's), 128
Surrey Theatre, 179
Surrey Zoological Gardens, 181
Sussex, Duke of; library and residence, 8
Sutherland, Duke of ; his mansion. 13
Swedish Church, 129
T.
Tatters a t.t.k' and the Jockev Club, 75
Temple Bar, 227
Temple Church (the) and its nota- bilities, 117-18
Temple, Inner and Middle ; their
Halls and historic associa- tions, 138—141
Thames, River; and objects of interest on its banks, xxvii., 41 -44 ; plan of the river, 292, —296
Thames-street, Upper and Lower, Plan of, 290
Thames Tunnel, 47
Theatres, and Places of Amuse- ment, 175 — 181, xxxv
Thomas's (St.) Hospital, 207
Tithe and Copyhold Commission Office, 56
Tower of London, 79; ground Plan, 80; horse armoury, 82, — 84; Queen Elizabeth's armoury, 84, 85 ; jewel-house, 86 : lion tower, 87 ; eminent persons confined there, 87, 88; per- sons murdered, 89; persons born, ?7>.; executions, 90; in- terments, 91
Tower Hamlets Cemetery, 132
Trafalgar-square, plan of", 304
Treasury, the, 48
Trinity House, Corporation of the, 63
Tunnel under the Thames, xxv., 42 ; its construction, and the difficulties attending it, 47
Tossaad's Wax Works, xxxvii
Tvburnia, x
Uxios Club, 220
United Service Club, 215 ; Junior
ditto. 216 United Service Museum, how to
obtain admission to see the,
174 University of London. Somerset
House, 191 University Club, 220 University College, 191 ; school
terms and fees. L98 rnivi'isity College Hospital, 212 Uxbridge Soaae Marqula of An-
gleeeft'a mansion, 20
Yat-xuati. r.uiDOE, 47 Vernon Gallery, 167 Victoria Cemetery, 18S Victoria Park, site of, 34
INDEX.
327
Victoria Theatre, 179 Vintners' Hall, 235
\V
Wash-houses axd Baths, 21-4
"Watch -face, Somerset House, legend of the, 5G, 57
Waterloo, model of the Battle of, 174
"Water Companies, 76 — 78
"Waterloo Bridge, 46
Weavers' Hall, 237
Wellington, Duke of; his mansion, 9 ; his only interview with Nelson, 49 ; statues, 255
Wesleyan Chapel, City-road, 127
AVest India Docks, C5
Westminster Abbey, 93; when founded, 93; hours of admis- sion, 93 ; ground Plan, 94 ; chapels and tombs, 95-99 ; monuments in the transepts, choir, and nave, 100-103; Poets' Corner, 104-106 ; clois- tei*s, 107 ; eminent persons buried in the Abbey, 108, 109
Westminster Bridge, 46
Westminster Hall: foundation of, 134; its legal and historical associations, 135, 136
Westminster Hospital, extent of relief afforded by, 212
Westminster, Marquis of; his mansion, 15
Westminster School and its cele- brities, 194
White's Club, 216
Whitecross-street Prison, 149
Whitefield's Chapel, Tottenham- court-road, 127
Whitehall Palace : its origin and destruction, 5, 6 ; King Charles's execution, 6, 7 ; paintings, scurfture, &c, 7
Whittington Club, 221
Windows, number of, in Somerse House, 57
Windsor Castle, xliv
Woods and Works' Office, 50
Woolwich, xlv
Y.
Yarborough, Eahl
sion of the, 32 York Column, 253
Z.
Zoological Gardens, Regent's- park, 32, 180; Surrey ditto, 181
THE END.
BHAIiKtBT AM KTAJCI, rlUMEr
W III11HUAKV
HAND-BOOK OF LONDON ADVERTISER, 1851.
ARGUS LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY,
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BANK;
AMi II. PALL .MALL.
OUirsuHb— THOM \s r\i:\< Ih/mtg Chainnmj—H J I.!
E. AllDKN.
Rica
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'.! .!., M.P.
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Auditors.— Professor Ham., M.A.— J. B. Siutti i worth, M.A. 1'ki/sician.— I>u. ..nv Square.
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SPECIMENS OF THE EARLY NATIVE POETRY OF
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Price 10s. Gd., a Third Edition (800 pp.), enlarged, of
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Black's General Atlas
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THE SCOTTISH TOURIST, CORRECTED TO MAY 1851.
0
In July will be published,
LIVER AND BOYD'S SCOTTISH TOURIST : a Guide
to the Picturesque Scenery, Antiquities, &c. Embellished with very numerous Engraviugs, illustrative of the Cities and Towns, Seats of the Nobility, Lake Scenery, and Antiquities of Scotland ; together with carefully prepared Maps. This well known AVork. now the property of Messrs. Oliver and Boyd, is at
firesent being in great part rewritten, and revised and corrected throughout, so as to nclude all the information that is likely to be useful to the Scottish Tourist. The numerous bountiful Engravings will always serve as a Souvenir of the scenes most interesting to the stranger.
OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH; SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., LONDON.
BROOKS (FROM DOLLOND'S) OPTICIAN AND Ma- thematical INSTRUMENT MAKER, respectfully solicits from the Public a continuance of their patronage. Having bad upwards of 30 years' experience in Dollond's, they may rely that all articles submitted by him are of the most perfect character, and at moderate prices.
SPECTACLES. TELESCOPES, MICROSCOPES, OPERA and RACE GLASSES, SEXTANTS, QUADRANTS, COMPASSES, BAROMETERS, SURVEYING INSTRUMENTS, RULES, SCALES, &c, of every description.
41, LUDGATE STREET, ST. PAUL'S.
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NOTICE-PATENT GLASS SILVERING.
NOW READY, and may be had free from MELLISH, 148, Regent Street; MILLAR," Edinburgh; LIVINGSTONE, Liverpool, &c. ; NEW ILLUSTRATED < 1KCULARS, descriptive of this beautiful Art Manufac- ture, so greatly admired by Princk Albert at the Rotal York Banquet, at the grand Guildhall Banquet, and at the magnificent Stanley Banquet, April 2nd, and so highly eulogised by the " Times," and the whole Public Press. Articles executed by this unique process comprise every varie'v of Ornamental Glass, and are peculiarly suitable, from the novelty and splendour of material, and singular elegance of design, lor presents of every description.
*,* Londo* Visitobs are particularly solicited to inspect the ShowRooms of
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SOYERS SYMPOSIUM OF ALL NATIONS, GORE HOUSE, HYDE PARK,
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APPLIED TO INNUMERABLE PURPOSES OK UTILITY ANI> ADORNMENT
naoueoooi thai mjmptuoui mtabushjcu p.
16 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OP LONDON ADVERTISER.
THE GREAT EXHIBITION.
HINTS TO VISITOR-.
AMONG the tens of thou- sands who -will grace the Industrial Fair, every natiou will contribute bright samples of its youth, beauty, and fashion. The frequenters of the Ball, the Public Assembly, and the Promenade, will find both personal comfort and attraction pro- moted by the use of Rowland and So.\s' valuable aids; and. what better mark of esteem can be offered to friends on their return home, as a memento of the Great Exhibition, than a packet of
" ROWLANDS' ' UNIQUE DISCOVERIES."
Rowlands' Macassar Oil,
For the growth, and for preserving, im- proving, and beautifying the Human II air. Price 3*. <></. and" Is. ; family bottles (equal to four small), 10*. 6rf. ; and double that size, 21*. per bottle.
Rowlands' Kalydor,
For improving and beautifying the Skin and Complexion, eradicating all cuta- neous eruptions, sunburn, freckles, and discolorations, and for rendering the skin soft, clear, and fair. Price l*.6«f. and 8». 6d» per bottle.
Rowlands' Odonto,
OR PEARL DENTIFRICE,
For preserving and beautifying the Teeth, strengthening the Gums, and for render- ing the Breath sweet and pure. Price It. \*d. per box.
The patronage of Royalty throughout Europe, their general use by the Aristo- cracy and the elite of Fashion, and the well known infallible efficacy of these articles, have given them a celebrity unparalleled.
BE W \RE
of SPURIOUS imitations:
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ORPHAN WORKING SCHOOL,
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THIS Charity was instituted at Hoxton in 175S, for Twenty boys, afterwards removed to the City Road, where accommodation was provided for Thirty-five boys and Thirty-five girls. The present building was erected in IS47, where 2-10 children are now educated, clothed, and wholly maintained until they arrive at the age of Fourteen. The positive increase during the last nine years has been 140, or at the rate of Ifi per annum. During the present year'Fortr will be admitted at the April ami November elections. Candidates must be in good health, and between Seven and Eleven years of age. Any person may present an orphan for admission upon the payment of 10 Guineas, and have one in the School during the life of the presentee by contributing 250 Guineas.
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JOSEPH SOUL, Secretary.
April, Wth, IS1.
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J- Park, near the Weybridge Station of the South Western Railway, constructed by the l»uke of Newcastle at a cost of 4OJB09L, and in which George the Fourth entertained his friends at supper, is open on Saturday, Sundav, and Monday after- noons, from May till October.
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MANUFACTORY FOR DECORATED PAPIER MACHE. consisting of Table*, Screens, Cabinets. Desks, Albums, Portfolios, Work Boxes, Tea Caddies, Card Cases, &c. Ornamented with Views of Oxford and its Neighbourhood, by eminent Artsts.
Spiers asd Son are Publishers of the Illustrated "Memorial por Visitors to Oxpord; containing Views, Maps, and General Local Information useful to the Tourist."
Information of every description readily afforded to strangers visiting their Esta- blishment.
Oxford is on the road to Bath, Bristol, Clifton, and the West of England; also to Stratford-on-Avon, Leamington, Warwick, Kenilworth, Birmingham, and the North ; to Cheltenham, Gloucester, and South Wales. In its immediate neighbourhood are Blenheim, Nuneham, and other places of interest.
Oxford, 102 & 103, High Street ; and 1 & 2, Oriel Street.
BIB.
Price 1«. lid., 2*.9d., and 11«. per Box.
THIS is an aromatic and aperient Medicine of great efficacy for regulatine the secretions, and correcting the action of the Stomach and Liver, and is the only safe remedy for all BiLiors Affections.
axso,
DR. LOCOCK'S PULMONIC WAFERS.
GIVE INSTANT BELIEP, AND A RATID CURE OF
ASTHMA. CONSUMPTION, COUGHS. COLDS, AND ALL
DISORDERS OP THE BREATH AND LUHl -
They have a pleasant taste, and may be taken br iufants as well as adults.
oers axd Public Sprakrrs these Wafers are invaluable; as by their action on the throat and limes they remove all hoarseness in a few hours, and wonder- fully increase the power and flexibility of the voice. Price 1«. 1JA, £*.9J., and 11*. per "Box.
Noti.— Full Direction! are giren teith every box, in the English, German, and French language*.
AXSO,
DR. LOCOCKS FEMALE WAFERS.
The best Medicine for Ladies. Have a pleasant taste. Price 1*. \\L, '2t.9d^ and lis. per Box. With full directions for use.
•«* All Pills under similar Names are Counterfeits.
TO VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT AND TO
J- ARTISTS. Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACK I . nts, and Agents to the
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C
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1. THE BIBLE IN SPAIN. By George Borrow.
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15. BRACEBRIDGE HALL. By Washington Irving.
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17. HISTORY OF THE FALL OF THE JESUITS.
18. LIFE OF LOUIS PRINCE CONDE. By Lord Mahon.
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MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK OF LONDON ADVEKTISEK. 21
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