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BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE GREAT CATARACTS OF THE ZAMBESI (CALLED MOSIOATUNYA, OR VICTORIA FALES) AND OF TIE
ZIGZAG CHASM BELOW THE FALLS THROUGH WHICH THE RIVER ESCAPES.
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BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF THE GREA
ZIGZAG
NARRATIVE
OF AN
EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI
AND ITS TRIBUTARIES ;
AND OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE LAKES SHIRWA
AND NYASSA.
1858—1864.
By DAVID ann CHARLES LIVINGSTONE.
) AAAS
eae
tht N)
ANN
WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1865.
The right of Translation is reserved.
TO
THE RIGHT HON. LORD PALMERSTON,
K.G., G.C.B.
My Lorp,
I beg leave to dedicate this Volume to your
Lordship, as a tribute justly due to the great Statesman who
has ever had at heart the amelioration of the African race;
and as a token of admiration of the beneficial effects of
that policy which he has so long laboured to establish on the
West Coast of Africa; and which, in improving that region,
has most forcibly shown the need of some similar system on
the opposite side of the Continent.
DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
PREFACE.
—_e—
Ir has been my object in this work to give as clear an
account as I was able of tracts of country previously unex-
plored, with their river systems, natural productions, and
capabilities; and to bring before my countrymen, and all
others interested in the cause of humanity, the misery entailed
by the slave-trade in its inland phases; a subject on which
I and my companions are the first who have had any oppor-
tunities of forming a judgment. The eight years spent in
Africa, since my last work was published, have not, I fear,
improved my power of writing English; but I hope that,
whatever my descriptions want in clearness, or literary skill,
may in a measure be compensated by the novelty of the
scenes described, and the additional information afforded on
that curse of Africa, and that shame, even now, in the
19th century, of an European nation,—the slave-trade.
I took the “Lady Nyassa” to Bombay for the express pur-
pose of selling her, and might without any difficulty have
done so; but with the thought of parting with her arose, more
strongly than ever, the feeling of disinclination to abandon
the East Coast of Africa to the Portuguese and slave-trading,
and I determined to run home and consult my friends before
I allowed the little vessel to pass from my hands. After,
therefore, having put two Ajawa lads to school under the
eminent Missionary the Rey. Dr. Wilson, and having pro-
vided satisfactorily for the native crew, I started homewards
with the three white sailors, and reached London July 20th,
b
vi PREFACE.
1864. _Mr. and Mrs. Webb, my much-loved friends, wrote
to Bombay inviting me, in the event of my coming to Eng-
land, to make Newstead Abbey my headquarters, and on
my arrival renewed their invitation: and though, when
I accepted it, I had no intention of remaining so long
with my kind-hearted generous friends, I stayed with them
until April, 1865, and under their roof transcribed from my
own and my brother’s journal the whole of this present book.
It is with heartfelt gratitude I would record their unwearied
kindness. My acquaintance with Mr. Webb began in Africa,
where he was a daring and successful hunter, and his con-
tinued friendship is most valuable, because he has seen
missionary work, and he would not accord his respect and
esteem to me had he not believed that I, and my brethren
also, were to be looked on as honest men earnestly trying
to do our duty.
The Government have supported the proposal of the Royal
Geographical Society made by my friend Sir Roderick Mur-
chison, and have united with that body to aid me in another
attempt to open Africa to civilizing influences, and a valued
private friend has given a thousand pounds for the same object.
I propose to go inland, north of the territory which the Por-
tuguese in Europe claim, and éndeavour to commence that
system on the Hast which has been so eminently successful
on the West Coast; a system combining the repressive efforts
of H.M. cruisers with lawful trade and Christian Missions—
the moral and material results of which have been so grati-
fying. I hope to ascend the Rovuma, or some other river
North of Cape Delgado, and, in addition to my other work,
shall strive, by passing along the Northern end of Lake
Nyassa and round the Southern end of Lake Tanganyika, to
ascertain the watershed of that part of Africa. In so doing,
I have no wish to unsettle what with so much toil and danger
POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE. vil
was accomplished by Speke and Grant, but rather to confirm
their illustrious discoveries.
I have to acknowledge the obliging readiness of Lord
Russell in lending me the drawings taken by the artist who
was in the first instance attached to the Expedition. These
sketches, with photographs by Charles Livingstone and Dr.
Kirk, have materially assisted in the illustrations. I would
also very sincerely thank my friends Professor Owen and
Mr. Oswell for many valuable hints and other aid in the
preparation of this volume.
Newstead Abbey,
April 16, 1865.
POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE.
—_—1oo
The credit which I was fain to award to the Lisbon
statesmen for a sincere desire to put an end to the slave-
trade, is, I regret to find, totally undeserved. They have
employed one Mons. Lacerda, to try to extinguish the facts
adduced by me before the meeting of the “British Associa-
tion for the Advancement of Science,” at Bath, by a series
of papers in the Portuguese Official Journal ; and their
Minister for Foreign Affairs has since devoted some of
the funds of his Government to the translation and circula-
tion of Mons. Lacerda’s articles in the form of an English
tract. Nothing is more conspicuous in this official document
than the extreme ignorance displayed of the geography
of the country of which they pretend that they possess
not only the knowledge, but also the dominion. A vague
rumour, cited by some old author, about two marshes below
Murchison’s Cataracts, is considered conclusive evidence
b 2
Vili POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE.
that the ancient inhabitants of Senna, a village on the
Zambesi, found no difficulty in navigating the Shire to
Lake Nyassa up what modern travellers find to be an
ascent of 1200 feet in 35 miles of latitude. A broad
shallow lake, with a strong current, which Senhor Candido
declared he had visited N.W. of Tette, is assumed to be
the narrow deep Lake Nyassa, without current, and about
N.N.E. of the same point. Great offence is also taken
because the discovery of the main sources of the Nile has
been ascribed to Speke and Grant, instead of to Ptolemy
and F. Lobo. .
But the main object of the Portuguese Government is not
geographical. It is to bolster up that pretence to power
which has been the only obstacle to the establishment of
lawful commerce and friendly relations with the native
inhabitants of Eastern Africa. The following work contains
abundant confirmation of all that was advanced by me at the
Bath meeting of the British Association; and I may here
add that it is this unwarranted assumption of power over
1360 miles of coast—from English River to Cape Delgado,
where the Portuguese have in fact little real authority
—which perpetuates the barbarism of the inhabitants.
The Portuguese interdict all foreign commerce, except at
a very few pomts where they have established custom-
houses, and even at these, by an exaggerated and obstructive
tariff and differential duties, they completely shut out the
natives from any trade, except that in slaves.
Looking from South to North, let us glance at the enor-
mous seaboard which the Portuguese in Europe endeavour to
make us believe belongs to them. Delagoa Bay has a small
fort called Lorenzo Marques, but nothing beyond the walls.
At Inhambane they hold a small strip of land by sufferance
of the natives. Sofala is in ruins, and from Quillimane north-
POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE. ix
wards for 690 miles, they have only one small stockade,
protected by an armed launch in the mouth of the River
Angoxa to prevent foreign vessels from trading there. Then
at Mosambique they have the little island on which the fort
stands, and a strip about three miles long on the mainland,
on which they have a few farms, which are protected from
hostility only by paying the natives an annual tribute, which
they call “having the blacks in their pay.” The settlement
has long been declining in trade and importance. It is gar-
risoned by a few hundred sickly soldiers shut up in the fort,
and eyen with a small coral island near can hardly be called
secure. On the island of Oibo, or Iboe, an immense number
of slaves are collected, but there is little trade of any kind.
At Pomba Bay a small fort was made, but it is very doubtful
whether it still exists; the attempt to form a settlement
there having entirely failed. They pay tribute to the Zulus,
for the lands they cultivate on the right bank of the
Zambesi; and the general effect of the pretence to power
and obstruction to commerce, is to drive the independent
native chiefs to the Arab dhow slave-trade, as the only one
open to them.
It is well known to the English Government, from reliable
documents at the Admiralty and Foreign Office, that no
longer ago than November, 1864, two months after my
speech was delivered at Bath, when the punishment of the
perpetrators of an outrage on the crew of the cutter of H.M.S.
“Lyra,” near a river 45 miles 8.W. of Mosambique, was
demanded by H.M.S. “Wasp,” at Mosambique, the present
Governor-General declared that he had no power over the
natives there. They have never been subdued, and being a
fine energetic race, would readily enter into commercial
treaties with foreigners, were it not for the false assertion
of power by which the Portuguese, with the tacit consent of
63
a: POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE:
4s
£ ae
European Governments, shut them out from commerce and
every civilizing influence.
This Portuguese pretence to dominion is the curse of
the negro race on the East Coast of Africa, and it would
soon fall to the ground, were it not for the moral support it
derives from the respect paid to it by our own flag. The
‘Emperor Napoleon III. disregarded it in the case of the
“Charles et Georges,” while only by the aid of English sailors
has the Government of Mosambique, on more than one
occasion, been saved from being overturned. Our squadron
on the East Coast costs over 70,0002. a year, and, by our
acquiescence in the sham sovereignty of the Portuguese, we
effect only a partial suppression of the slave-trade, and
none of the commercial benefits which have followed direct
dealing with the natives on the West Coast. A new law for
the abolition of slavery has been proposed by the King of
Portugal; but it inspires me with no confidence, as no means
have ever been taken to put similar enactments already
passed into execution, and we can only view this as a new
bid for still further acquiescence in a system which per-
petuates barbarism. Mons. Lacerda has unwittingly shown,
by his eager advocacy, that the real sentiments of his
employers are decidedly pro-slavery. The great fact that
the Americans have rid themselves of the incubus of slavery,
and will probably not tolerate the continuance of the
murderous slave-trade by the Portuguese nation, has done
more to elicit their king’s recent speech than the opinions of
his ministry.
bi
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
Hopes oF THE AUTHOR. FAILURE OF SEARCH OF PORTUGUESE
For Opuir. Earty Caruonic Misstons. Sir R. Murcui-
son’s THEORY. LORD PALMERSTON’S POLICY. OBJECTS
OCKEEXPRDELION) ge oss) 3.48. we aac) ah ate
CHAPTER I.
CONCEALMENT OF MoutTHs OF ZAMBESI BY PORTUGUESE. THE
ZAMBESI AND ITS BANKS. “ FREE EMIGRANTS.” MARIANO.
SENNA AND ITS “ONE VIRTUE,” SENHOR FERRAO, MaJor
SIcCARD AND MaxKonLoLo. LUPATA GORGE .. ..
CHAPTER II.
Meret MAKoLoLo. SUPERSTITIONS. VOLUNTARY SLAVERY.
TETTE, PLANTS, COAL, GOLD, AND IRON. KEBRABASA.
MoruMBwa Sy eel RRs career
oe oe oe oe
CHAPTER III.
NATIVE MUSICIANS. AFRICAN FEVER. RIVER SHIRE, FIRST
ASCENT OF. Mourcuison’s CATARACTS. SECOND TRIP UP
THE SHIRE. LAKE SHirwA. RETURN TO TETTE. STEAMER,
BATRUBE OR.) Se> sa
oe oe oe «e ee ee ee
CHAPTER LY.
THIRD TRIP UP THE SHIRE. Mount MoramBana. Hot roun-
TAIN. PORTUGUESE GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE! SHIRE
MARSHES. Brrps. BRACKISH SOIL AND COTTON. CHIBISA
CHAPTER V.
MANGANJA HIGHLANDS. BELIEF IN A SupreME BEING. Drs-
COVERY OF LAKE Nyassa. Dr. RoscHEerR
Pace
14
42
63
87
»
xu CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
RETURN TO VESSEL. DriREcT ROUTE FROM CxHTIBISA’s TO TETTE.
Orr To Konconr. RETURN TO TrETTE. BANYAI AND
PortucuEse. TETTE, LAWS AND SOCIETY. ZULU TAX-
GATHERERG\)5e)) Sushi 0 eM ona! | te 08 onde ie pet ye
CHA Pit R: avin.
START TO TAKE MaxkoLoLo Home. NEw PATH. SURVEY OF
KEBRABASA COMPLETED. SANDIA’S REPORT... .. ..
CHAPTER VIII.
CuicovA. Native Discussions. THe MARCH. “'THE FEAR OF
YOU AND THE DREAD OF YOU.” SoLO AND DUET BY OUR
DONKEYS ARADO DI Bent sere OW BAG Ger WhO full.
OH ARTE, AX
TETTE GREY SANDSTONE AND COAL. SAGACITY OF ELEPHANTS.
ANTS. SALT-MAKING. AFRICAN EMPIRES. SEQUASHA ..
CHAPTER X.
ZuUMBO. CATHOLIC MISSIONS, THEIR FAILURE. Fruits. “SMOKES.”
TY ale HON GaWikt are von OAC UN ec ee eae yun eth eu ea aa
CHAPTER XL
Mission To MosEenEKATSE. THE BAWE AND BAENDA PEZI.
BATOKA HIGHLANDS. DOGGED BY THE SLAVE-TRADE. AT-
TEMPT TO SHUT UP THE RovumMA. FIRST GLIMPSE OF
MosI-OA-TUNYA ....
CHAPTER XIL
INMOSTZOA=TUNMA. fe ves, Weis) erey ceil), lord eS Ga eo
CHAPTER ,XIIE
SERVITUDE OF INTERIOR. SEKELETU’S LEPROSY. DocTRESS AND
Doctors. ‘TRADE WITH WEST COAST. Mr. HELMORE’S
CHAPTER XIV.
Tor Maxonono. Dr. LIVINGSTONE REVISITS LINYANTI. NATIVE
DOUBTS OF THE RESURRECTION yi AR Te a Bee a
Pace
130
174
184
203
219
250
262
281
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XV.
DEPARTURE FROM SESHEKE. KALUNDA AND MoAmpBa FALLS.
NATIVE FRUITS. GOLONGWE. SINAMANE .. oc oe oe
CHAPTER XVI.
Mormpa. KARIBA RAPIDS. RAPIDS OF KEBRABASA. REACH
Terre 23rp NoveMBeER, 1860..
CHAPTER XVII.
Down ‘to Konconr. THE END OF THE “ ASTHMATIC.” Kon-
GONE AND THE MANGROVE SWAMPS
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE “PIONEER.” BisHop Mackenzie. THe Rovuma. THE
SHIRE. SLAVES LIBERATED. THe AJAwA. MAGomMERO .
CHAPTER XIX.
START AGAIN FOR NyAssA. DESCRIPTION OF LAKE AND ITS
SHORES. HoRRORS OF INLAND SLAVE-TRADE. MAZITU.
ARAB GEOGRAPHY
CHAPTER XX.
Napoteon Ill. Arrivan or H.M.S. “Gorcon.” DEATH OF
BisHop MACKENZIE AND oF Mr. Burrup. REVEREND
J. STEWART. D=EATH oF Mrs. LIVINGSTONE
CHAPTER XXI.
CONNIVANCE OF GOVERNOR-GENERAL IN’ SLAVE-TRADE.
LauncH oF THE “Lapy Nyassa.” ‘Ur THE Rovuma
AGAIN. RocKY BARRIER. RETURN TO PIONEER..
CHAPTER XXII.
QUILLIMANE. RETURN TO SHUPANGA. Famine. THE BisHop’s
GRAVE. Mr. THORNTON: HIS DEATH. DESOLATION. SEPA-
RATION. Dr. MELLER
xill
PAGE
203
ol7
008
348
365
400
418
445
XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIII.
START FOR UPPER CATARACTS OF SHIRE. AFRICAN POISONS.
IRA CALTROR SXPEDITION) | oct yes) eee acess alee anon
CHAPTER XXIV.
Our ENGLISH SAILORS. KiIRK’S RANGE. AJAWA MIGRATIONS.
Tur NEGRO TYPE. A SUPERHUMAN INSTRUCTOR .. .. «
CHAPTER XXV.
Kota-KotaA Bay. AFRICANS AND MoHAMMEDANS. AFRICAN
RELIGION. Ratns. INUNDATIONS. CLIMATE. WATERSHED.
NAT VENGHOGEAP EDV as nnee ine une nines
CHAPTER XXVI.
REASONS FOR RETURNING. AFRICAN Women, THEIR EMPLOY-
MENTS .. oe oe ee oe oe oe oe ve oe oe o-
CHAPTER XXVIL
RESEMBLANCE OF AFRICAN HUNTERS TO EGYPTIAN FIGURES.
DIALECTS. DIRECTION OF WIND. WET CLOTHES AND FEVER
CHAPTER XXVIII.
REST OF TROPICAL TREES. BisHoPp MACKENZIE’S SUCCESSOR.
ABANDONMENT OF Mission. ZAMBESI IN FLOOD. ‘TAKEN
IN TOW. HURRICANE. ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY .. .. ..
CHAPTER XXIX.
RESULTS OF EXPEDITION. SLAVE-TRADE A BARRIER TO ALL
PROGRESS. THE AFRICAN. AFRICAN STAGNATION. STA-
TISTICS OF SIERRA LEONE. EXPEDITIONS AND SETTLE-
MENTS Meo 9. es, abl ee, cee Seo ie SER eo
PAGE
464
481
511
539
546
569
585
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
. Bird’s-eye View of the Great Cataracts of the Zambesi .. .. Frontispiece.
Pandanus or Screw Palm, covered with climbing plants, near the
Kongone Canal of the Zambesi -. «-Thos. Baines, ft. To face page 19
3. View of Mazaro.—F pe between Portuguese and Rebels in the
distance Ee 28
4, Dance of Landeens, or ils, come Pe lift the Anil Tribute
from the Portuguese at Shupanga .. .. Thos. Baines, ft. op 30
5, The Grave of Mrs. ai under the Baobab-tree, near to
Shupanga House .. . op 31
6. The Ma-Robert in the Fannie above Sees wa ae ne
shaped Hill Kevramisa in the distance .. Thos. Baines, ft. oF 34
7. Landeens, or Zulus, who lift Tribute of the Portuguese at Senna,
exhibiting War Exercises .. .. .. .. Thos. Baines, ft. r, 36
pe eapousterialing the Hippopotamus... -\s5) 6 22) 4) pel =. =), 13S
. View of a portion of Kebrabasa Rapids SoS nn E AON CEMUG CIOS
10. Women with Water-pots, listening to the music of the ples:
Sansa, and Pan’s Pipes 20 5 65
11. Mamvira Cataract, the first or lowest of Muichizen’ s Gatethets ae 35 18
12. African Fiddle of one String.. .. .. 66 bo om “to ook EB)
13. View of Steamer, Traps, and dead Ena poten qo oo de ee co | BS
14, Fish-basket .. .. .. sc Sen OO
15. Native web, and Weaver margin the fee arene of the coreie 50
24,
25.
. Blacksmith’s Forge and Bellows of Goatskin .. «. «. «2 ee ee) (118
pelle om Lip-rine of Manganja Woman, 3. -. «2 a7 2. «a. 115
. “Goree,” or Slave-stick tego a ie hws tay Ucere BeSuh tee fe Ps Glo
. Wedding Procession at Tette -- »- hos. Baines, fi. ‘To face page 144
PES RURPIOMEIP POO. ar see es just yas ase) cist ey as Pa LOG
SUNIL OMPATESH ol P cat cl aw 34| “eds+ fe) ses en, tae bem SS
meMUsicAIMEErOUMeHtS|; 2) 52F Je 5. ot; en se, ee
Pebciloweandrotherslools ca je) \estuce qe Go -¢ am, «i ah OLf
oo te co!) A
Waist-belt .. .. or 5 ca) wile
Gang of Captives met at iateniee son ele way to Tette oc To flee page 356
. An old Manganja Woman, showing the Pelele or Lip-ring and the tattooing
in intersecting lines on face, arms, and body .. .. .. .. «. « 394
27. Beehive. Baskets employed by Women to catch Fish.. .. To face page 439
Zoe views Of@aillimane andeof the Pioneer? 5 | sa. cn cistiiasy scien e416
ERE OANA NELOW SS ln oe. eal) ads) oh> Gout See Uae cae dae een LOO
BUS Ge ese vata VSN oes ica Wipe cop) pee wane bas to) lo ico! . oa. €EE
Sila abi ONE Cael ae ne: WARMER aU oE SOOM MINOT MESO | woe gon. da ee
Se MANOADIARSPCATSI | raat) ys) oe) as! (eet UbISe ae, le een oem
33. Woman grinding .. 2 APLCCe eee Meer pare Bo. Soo Ge Hee:
34, Native Mill for grinding Carn HE EMEC TRY “abe iho? ado eo) Abe, eet
San MEARAVE DOW on” ya’ sie)” “sie!” aah vee’ stat week” ste vies maa Meee a) OO
Map to Illustrate Dr. Livingstone’s Travels .. .. 1. .. At the end.
2,
THE
ZAMBESI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.
INTERODUCTLON.
Objects of the Expedition — Portuguese Expedition in search of the Ophir of
King Solomon — India and not Africa indicated by the merchandise sought
—Failure in Sofalla—Second Portuguese Expedition after gold-mines —
Repulsed by large bodies of natives — Catholic Missions — Want of reliable
information regarding them— Erroneous ideas as to the interior of Africa —
Sir Roderick Murchison’s hypothesis correct — Decrease of slave-trade, and
increase of lawful commerce on West Coast owing to Lord Palmerston’s
policy — Fatality of the murderer attends the slave-trader — Opinion of Rev.
J. L. Wilson on the slave-trade — The operations of our cruisers — II] effects
of sealing up the East Coast — Instructions to the Expedition,
Woe first I determined on publishing the narrative of
my ‘ Missionary Travels,’ I had a great misgiving as to
whether the criticism my endeavours might provoke would
be friendly or the reverse, more particularly as I felt that I
had then been so long a sojourner in the wilderness, as to be
quite a stranger to the British public. But I am now in this,
my second essay at authorship, cheered by the conviction that
very many readers, who are personally unknown-to me, will —
receive this narrative with the kindly consideration and
allowances of friends; and that many more, under the
genial influences of an innate love of liberty, and of a
desire to see the same social and religious blessings they
themselves enjoy, disseminated throughout the world, will
sympathize with me in the efforts by which I have striven,
B
2 INTRODUCTION.
however imperfectly, to elevate the position and character of
our fellow-men in Africa. This knowledge makes me doubly
anxious to render my narrative acceptable to all my readers ;
but, in the absence of any excellence in literary composition,
the natural consequence of my pursuits, I have to offer only a
simple account of a mission which, with respect to the objects
proposed to be thereby accomplished, formed a noble contrast
to some of the earlier expeditions to Eastern Africa. I be-
lieve that the information it will give, respecting the people
visited and the countries traversed, will not be materially
gainsaid by any future commonplace traveller like myself,
who may be blest with fair health and a gleam of sunshine
in his breast. This account is written in the earnest hope
that it may contribute to that information which will yet
cause the great and fertile continent of Africa to be no longer
kept wantonly sealed, but made available as the scene of
European enterprise, and will enable its people to take a
place among the nations of the earth, thus securing the
happiness and prosperity of tribes now sunk in barbarism or
debased by slavery ; and, above all, I cherish the hope that it
may lead to the introduction of the blessings of the Gospel.
The first expedition sent to Hast Africa, after the Portu-
euese had worked a passage round the Cape, was instituted
under the auspices of the Government of Portugal, for the
purpose, it is believed, of discovering the land of Ophir,
made mention of in Holy Scripture as the country whence
King Solomon obtained sandal-wood, ivory, apes, peacocks,
and gold. The terms used by the Jews to express the first
four articles had, according to Max Miiller, no existence in
the Hebrew language, but were words imported into it from the
Sanscrit. It is curious then, that the search was not directed
to the Coast of India,—more particularly as Sanscrit was
DSI
INTRODUCTION. 3
known on the Malabar Coast,—and there also peacocks and
sandal-wood are met with in abundance. The Portuguese, like
some others of more modern times, were led to believe that
Sofalla, because sometimes pronounced Zophar by the Arabs,
from being the lowest or most southerly port they visited,
was identical with the Ophir alluded to in Sacred History.
Eastern Africa had been occupied from the most remote
times by traders from India and the Red Sea. Vasco da
Gama, in 1497-8, found them firmly established at Mosam-
bique, and, after reaching India, he turned with longing
eyes from Calicut towards Sofalla, and actually visited it in
1502. As the Scriptural Ophir, it was expected to be the
most lucrative of all the Portuguese stations; and, under
the impression that an important settlement could be esta-
blished there, the Portuguese conquered, at great loss of
both men and money, the district in which the gold-washings
were situated; but, in the absence of all proper machinery,
a vast amount of labour returned so small an amount of
gain, that they abandoned them in disgust.
The next expedition, consisting of three ships and a
thousand men, mostly gentlemen volunteers, left Lisbon in
1569 for the conquest of the gold mines or washings of the
Chief of Monomotapa, west of Tette, and of those in Manica,
still further west, but in a more southerly direction ; and also
to find a route to the west coast. In this last object they
failed; and to this day it has been accomplished by only.
one European, and that an Englishman. The expedition
was commanded by Francisco Barreto, and abundantly sup-
plied with horses, asses, camels, and provisions. Ascend-
ing the Zambesi as far as Senna, they found many Arab
and other traders already settled there, who received the
strangers with great hospitality. The horses, however,
B2
4 INTRODUCTION.
having passed through a district abounding with tsetse, an
insect whose bite is fatal to domestic animals, soon showed
the emaciation peculiar to the poison; and Senna being
notoriously unhealthy, the sickness of both men and horses
aroused Barreto’s suspicion that poison had been admini-
stered by the inhabitants, most of whom, consequently, he
put to the sword or blew away from his guns. Marching
beyond Senna with a party five hundred and sixty strong, he
and his men suffered terribly from hunger and thirst, and,
after being repeatedly assaulted by a large body of natives,
the expedition was compelled to return without ever reaching
the gold-mines which Barreto so eagerly sought.
Previous to this, however, devoted Roman Catholic mis-
sionaries had penetrated where an army could not go; for
Senhor Bordalo, in his excellent Historical Essays, mentions
that the Jesuit father Goncalo da Silveira had already
suffered martyrdom by command of the Chief of Monomotapa.
Indeed, missionaries of that body of Christians established
themselves in a vast number of places in Eastern Africa, as
the ruins of mission stations still testify ; but, not having suc-
ceeded in meeting with any reliable history of the labours of
these good men, it is painful for me to be unable to contradict
the calumnies which Portuguese writers still heap on their
memory. So far as the impression left on the native mind
goes, it is decidedly favourable to their zeal and piety ; while
the writers referred to roundly assert that the missionaries
engaged in the slave-trade ; which is probably as false as the
more modern scandals occasionally retailed against their
Protestant brethren. Philanthropists sometimes err in ac-
cepting the mere gossip of coast villages as facts, when
asserting the atrocities of our countrymen abroad; while
others, pretending to regard all philanthropy as weakness,
INTRODUCTION. 5
yet practising that silliest of all hypocrisies, the endeavour
to appear worse than they are, accept and publish the mere
brandy-and-water twaddle of immoral traders, against a body
of men who, as a whole, are an honour to human kind. In
modern missionary literature, now widely spread, we have a
record which will probably outlive all misrepresentation ;
and it is much to be regretted that there is no available
Catholic literature of the same nature, and that none of the
translations which may have been made into the native
tongues can now be consulted. We cannot believe that
these good men would risk their lives for the unholy gains
which, even were they lawful, by the rules of their order
they could not enjoy; but it would be extremely interesting
to all their successors to know exactly what were the real
causes of their failure in perpetuating the faith.
In order that the following narrative may be clearly under-
stood, it is necessary to call to mind some things which took
place previous to the Zambesi Expedition being sent out.
Most geographers are aware that, before the discovery of Lake
Ngami and the well watered country in which the Makololo
dwell, the idea prevailed that a large part of the interior of
Africa consisted of sandy deserts, into which rivers ran and
were lost. During my journey in 1852-6, from sea to sea,
across the south intertropical part of the continent, it was
found to be a well watered country, with large tracts of
fine fertile soil covered with forest, and beautiful grassy
valleys, occupied by a considerable population ; and one of
the most wonderful waterfalls in the world was brought
to light. The peculiar form of the continent was then
ascertained to be an elevated plateau, somewhat depressed
in the centre, and with fissures in the sides by which the
rivers escaped to the sea; and this great fact in physical
6 INTRODUCTION,
geography can never be referred to without calling to mind
the remarkable hypothesis by which the distinguished Presi-
dent of the Royal Geographical Society (Sir Roderick I.
Murchison) clearly indicated this peculiarity, before it was
verified by actual observation of the altitudes of the country
and by the courses of the rivers. New light was thrown on
other portions of the continent by the famous travels of
Dr. Barth, by the researches of the Church of England
Missionaries Krapf, Erkhardt, and Rebman, by the persever-
ing efforts of Dr. Baikie, the last martyr to the climate and
English enterprise, by the journey of Francis Galton, and
by the most interesting discoveries of Lakes Tanganyika and
Victoria Nyanza by Captain Burton, and by Captain Speke,
whose untimely end we all so deeply deplore. Then followed
the researches of Van der Decken, Thornton, ‘and others ;
and last of all the grand discovery of the main source of the
Nile, which every Englishman must feel an honest pride in
knowing was accomplished by our gallant countrymen,
Speke and Grant. The fabulous torrid zone, of parched and
burning sand, was now proved to be a well watered region
resembling North America in its fresh-water lakes, and
India in its hot humid lowlands, jungles, ghauts, and cool
highland plains.
In our exploration the chief object in view was not
to discover objects of nine days’ wonder, to gaze and be
gazed at by barbarians; but to note the climate, the natural
productions, the local diseases, the natives and their relation
to the rest of the world; all which were observed with that
peculiar interest which, as regards the future, the first white
man cannot but feel in a continent whose history is only just
beginning. When proceeding to the West Coast, in order
to find a path to the sea by which lawful commerce might
INTRODUCTION. a
be introduced to aid missionary operations, it was quite
striking to observe, several hundreds of miles from the
ocean, the very decided influence of that which is known
as Lord Palmerston’s policy. Piracy had been abolished, and
the slave-trade so far suppressed, that it was spoken of by
Portuguese, who had themselves been slave-traders, as a thing
of the past. Lawful commerce had increased from an annual
total of 20,0002. in ivory and gold-dust, to between two and
three millions, of which one million was in palm oil to our
own country. Over twenty Missions had been established,
with schools, in which more than twelve thousand pupils were
taught. Life and property were rendered secure on the Coast,
and comparative peace imparted to millions of people in the
interior, and all this at a time when, by the speeches of infiu-
ential men in England, the world was given to understand
that the English cruisers had done nothing but aggravate the
evils of the slave-trade. It is so reasonable to expect that
self-interest would induce the slave-trader to do his utmost to
preserve the lives by which he makes his gains, that men
yielded ready credence to the plausible theory; but the
atrocious waste of human life was just as great when the
slave-trade was legal; it always has been, and must be,
marked by the want of foresight characteristic of the mur-
derer. Every one wonders why he, who has taken another’s
life, did not take this, that, or the other precaution to avoid
detection ; and every one may well wonder why slave-traders
have always, by over-crowding and all its evils, acted so
much in direct opposition to their own interests, but it is
the fatality of the murderer; the loss of life from this cause,
simply baffles exaggeration.
On this subject the opinion of the Rey. J. L. Wilson, a
most intelligent American Missionary, who has written by .
8 INTRODUCTION.
far the ablest work on the West Coast that has yet appeared,
is worth a host. He declares that the efforts of the English
Government are worthy of all praise. Had it not been for
the cruisers, and especially those of England, Africa would
still have been inaccessible to missionary labour; “and it is
devoutly to be hoped,” he adds, “that these noble and dis-
interested measures may not be relaxed until the foul demon
be driven away from the earth.” The slave-trade is the
greatest obstacle in existence to civilization and commercial
progress; and as the English are the most philanthropic
people in the world, and will probably always have the
largest commercial stake in the African continent, the policy
for its suppression in every possible way shows thorough
wisdom and foresight.
When, in pursuit of the same object, the Hast Coast was
afterwards reached, it was found sealed up. Although praise-
worthy efforts had been made by Her Majesty’s cruisers,
yet in consequence of foreigners being debarred from
entering the country, neither traders nor missionaries had
established themselves. The trade was still only in’a
little ivory, gold-dust, and slaves, just as it was on the West
Coast, before Lord Palmerston’s policy came into operation
there. It was, however, subsequently discovered that the
Portuguese Government professed itself willing, nay anxious,
to let the country be opened to the influences of civilization
and lawful commerce—indeed it could scarcely be otherwise,
seeing that not a grain of benefit ever accrued to Portugal by
shutting it up;—and the Zambesi, a large river, promised
to be a fine inlet to the highlands and interior generally ;
the natives were agricultural, and all fond of trading; the
soil was fertile—indigo, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, and other
articles of value, were already either cultivated or growing
INTRODUCTION. g
wild. It seemed, therefore, that if this region could be
opened to lawful commerce and Christian Missions, it would
have the effect of aiding or supplementing our cruisers in
the same way as had been done by the missionaries and
traders on the West Coast, and that an inestimable service
would be thereby rendered to Africa and Europe.
The main object of the Zambesi Expedition, as our instruc-
tions from Her Majesty's Government explicitly stated, was
to extend the knowledge already attained of the geography
and mineral and agricultural resources of Eastern and Cen-
tral Africa—to improve our acquaintance with the inhabi-
tants, and to endeavour to engage them to apply themselves
to industrial pursuits and to the cultivation of their lands,
with a view to the production of raw material to be exported
to England in return for British manufactures; and it was
hoped, that, by encouraging the natives to occupy themselves
in the development of the resources of the country, a con-
siderable adyance might be made towards the extinction of
the slaye-trade, as they would not be long in discovering
that the former would eventually be a more certain source
of profit than the latter. The Expedition was sent in ac-
cordance with the settled policy of the English Government ;
and the Earl of Clarendon, being then at the head of the
Foreign Office, the Mission was organized under his imme-
diate care. When a change of Government ensued, we
experienced the same generous countenance and sympathy
from the Earl of Malmesbury, as we had previously received
from Lord Clarendon; and, on the accession of Earl Russell
to the high office he has so long filled, we were always
fayoured with equally ready attention and the same prompt
assistance. Thus the conviction was produced that our work
embodied the principles, not of any one party, but of the
10 INTRODUCTION.
hearts of the statesmen and of the people of England
generally. The Expedition owes great obligations to the
Lords of the Admiralty for their unvarying readiness to
render us every assistance in their power; and to the warm-
hearted and ever-obliging hydrographer to the Admiralty,
the late Admiral Washington, as a subordinate, but most
effective agent, our heartfelt gratitude is also due; and we
must ever thankfully acknowledge that our efficiency was
mainly due to the kind services of Admirals Sir Frederick
Grey, Sir Baldwin Walker, and all the naval officers serving
under them on the Hast Coast. Nor must I omit to record
our obligations to Mr. Skead, R.N. The Luawe was carefully
sounded and surveyed by this officer, whose skilful and
zealous labours, both on that river, and afterwards on the
Lower Zambesi, were deserving of all praise.
In speaking of what has been done by the Expedition, it
should always be understood that Dr. Kark, Mr. Charles
Livingstone, Mr. R. Thornton, and others composed it. In
using the plural number they are meant, and I wish to
bear testimony to the untirmg zeal, energy, courage, and
perseverance with which my companions laboured ; undaunted
by difficulties, dangers, or hard fare. It is my firm belief
that, were their services required in any other capacity, they
might be implicitly relied on to perform their duty like
men. The reason why Dr. Kirk’s name does not appear on
the title-page of this narrative is, because it is hoped that
he may give an account of the botany and natural history
of the Expedition in a separate work from his own pen. He
collected above four thousand species of plants, specimens of
most of the valuable woods, of the different native manufac-
tures, of the articles of food, and of the different kinds of
cotton from every spot we visited, and a great variety of birds
INTRODUCTION. 11
and insects; besides making meteorological observations,
and affording
g, as our instructions required, medical assist-
ance to the natives In every case where he could be of
any use.
Charles Livingstone was also fully occupied in his duties
in following out the general objects of our mission, in en-
couraging the culture of cotton, in making many magnetic
and meteorological observations, in photographing so long as
the materials would serve, and in collecting a large number of
birds, insects, and other objects of interest. The collections,
being Government property, have been forwarded to the
British Museum, and to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew;
and, should Dr. Kirk undertake their description, three or
four years will be required for the purpose.
Though collections were made, it was always distinctly
understood that, however desirable these and our explora-
tions might be, “ Her Majesty’s Government attached more
importance to the moral influence that might be exerted on the
minds of the natives by a well regulated and orderly household
of Europeans setting an example of consistent moral conduct
to all who might witness it ; treating the people with kindness,
and relieving their wants, teaching them to make experi-
ments in agriculture, explaining to them the more simple
arts, imparting to them religious instruction as far as they
are capable of receiving it, and inculcating peace and good
will to each other.”
It would be tiresome to enumerate in detail all the little
acts which were performed by us while following out our in-
structions. As a rule, whenever the steamer stopped to take
in wood, or for any other purpose, Dr. Kirk and Charles
Livingstone went ashore to their duties: one of our party,
who it was intended should navigate the vessel and lay
12 INTRODUCTION.
down the geographical positions, having failed to answer
the expectations formed of him, these duties fell chiefly to
my share. ‘They involved a considerable amount of night
work, in which I was always cheerfully aided by my com-
panions, and the results were regularly communicated to our
warm and ever-ready friend, Sir Thomas Maclear of the
Royal Observatory, Cape of Good Hope. While this work
was going through the press, we were favoured with the
longitudes of several stations determined from observed
occultations of stars by the moon, and from eclipses and
reappearances of Jupiter’s satellites, by Mr. Mann, the able
Assistant to the Cape Astronomer Royal; the lunars are still
in the hands of Mr. G. W. H. Maclear of the same Observa-
tory. In addition to these, the altitudes, variation of the
compass, latitudes and longitudes, as calculated on the
spot, appear in the map by Mr. Arrowsmith, and it is
hoped may not differ much from the results of the same
data in abler hands. The office of ‘ skipper,” which,
rather than let the Expedition come to a stand, I under-
took, required no great ability in one “not too old to
learn:” it saved a salary, and, what was much more valu-
able than gold, saved the Expedition from the drawback
of any one thinking that he was indispensable to its further
progress. The office required attention to the vessel both at
rest and in motion. It also involved considerable exposure
to the sun; and to my regret kept me from much antici-
pated intercourse with the natives, and the formation of
full vocabularies of their dialects.
I may add that all wearisome repetitions are as much
as possible avoided in the narrative; and, our movements
and operations haying previously been given in a series of
despatches, the attempt is now made to give as fairly as
INTRODUCTION. 13
possible just what would most strike any person of ordinary
intelligence in passing through the country. For the sake
of the freshness which usually attaches to first impressions,
the Journal of Charles Livingstone has been incorporated
in the narrative; and many remarks made by the natives,
which he put down at the moment of translation, will
convey to others the same ideas as they did to ourselves.
Some are no doubt trivial; but it is by the little acts and
words of every-day life that character is truly and best
known. And doubtless many will prefer to draw their
own conclusions from them rather than to be schooled
by us.
14 REACH THE COAST. Cuap. I.
CHAPTER &
Reach the Coast — Explore River Luawe—Mouths of Zambesi — Concealed to
deceive English cruisers— The deception palmed off on European Govern-
ments by Ministers in Portugal — Official testimony — Kongone — Scenery
on the river — Fertility of Delta soil— Colonos or serfs — Deep channel of
river — Land luggage on Expedition Island— Country in a state of war —
“Free emigrants” — Atrocities of Mariano— Meet so-called “rebels” — A
fight between natives and Portuguese — An army waiting for ammunition —
Birds and beasts met with on the river—Mazaro—The reshipment of
merchandise there for Quillimane —Shupanga — Zulu dominion on right
bank of Zambesi— Tribute paid by the Portuguese —Senna and Senhor
Ferrio — Seguati or present — Hippopotamus hunters — Peculiarity of
Baobab-trees — Lupata gorge.
THE Expedition left England on the 10th of March, 1858,
in Her Majesty’s Colonial Steamer “ Pearl,” commanded by
Captain Duncan; and, after enjoying the generous hospi-
tality of our friends at Cape Town, with the obliging atten-
tions of Sir George Grey, and receiving on board Mr. Francis
Skead, R.N., as surveyor, we reached the Hast Coast in the
following May.
Our first object was to explore the Zambesi, its mouths
and tributaries, with a view to their being used as highways
for commerce and Christianity to pass into the vast interior of
Africa. When we came within five or six miles of the land, the
yellowish-green tinge of the sea in soundings was suddenly
succeeded by muddy water with wrack, as of a river in flood.
The two colours did not intermingle, but the line of contact
was as sharply defined as when the ocean meets the land.
It was observed that under the wrack—consisting of reeds,
Cuap. I. THE RIVER LUAWE. 5
sticks, and leayes,—and even under floating cuttlefish bones
and Portuguese “ men-of-war” (Physalia), numbers of small
fish screen themselves from the eyes of birds of prey, and
from the rays of the torrid sun.
The coast is low and covered with mangrove swamps,
among which are sandy patches clothed with grass, creeping
plants, and stunted palms. The land trends nearly east and
west, without any notable feature to guide the navigator,
and it is difficult to make out the river’s mouth; but the
water shoals gradually, and each fathom of lessening depth
marks about a mile.
We entered the River Luawe first, because its entrance
is so smooth and deep, that the “Pearl,” drawing 9 feet 7
inches, went in without a boat sounding ahead. A small
steam launch having been brought out from England in
three sections on the deck of the “ Pearl” was hoisted out
and screwed together at the anchorage, and with her aid
the exploration was commenced. She was called the “ Ma
Robert,” after Mrs. Livingstone, to whom the natives, accord-
ing to their custom, gave the name Ma (mother) of her
eldest son. The harbour is deep, but shut in by mangrove
swamps; and though the water a few miles up is fresh, it
is only a tidal river ; for, after ascending some seventy miles,
it was found to end in marshes blocked up with reeds and
succulent aquatic plants. As the Luawe had been called
“ West Luabo,” it was supposed to be a branch of the Zam-
besi, the main stream of which is called “Luabo,” or “ East
LIuabo.” The “Ma Robert” and “ Pearl” then went to what
proved to be a real mouth of the river we sought.
The Zambesi pours its water into the ocean by four
mouths, namely, the Milambe, which is the most westerly
the Kongone, the Luabo, and the Timbwe (or Muselo).
16 DECEPTION TO ENGLISH CRUISERS. Cuap. I.
When the river is in flood, a natural canal running parallel
with the coast, and winding very much among the swamps,
forms a secret way for conveying slaves from Quillimane to
the bays Massangano and Nameara, or to the Zambesi itself.
The Kwakwa, or river of Quillimane, some sixty miles distant
from the mouths of the Zambesi, has long been represented
as the principal entrance to the Zambesi, in order, as the
Portuguese now maintain, that the English cruisers might
be induced to watch the false mouth, while slaves were
quietly shipped from the true one; and strange to say this
error has lately been propagated by a map issued by the
colonial minister of Portugal.*
* Stranger still, the Portuguese of-
ficial paper, ‘‘Annaes do Conselho
Ultramarinho” for 1864 shamelessly
asserts that “in that harbour (Kon-
gone), which Dr. Livingstone says he
discovered, many vessels with slaves
have taken refuge from the persecu-
tions of English cruisers.” This (shall
we admit?) was known to the Por-
tuguese Government! Would any
other gentleman in Europe construct
a map such as that mentioned in the
text, and send it to the English Go-
vernment as showing the true mouth
of the Zambesi? We did not think of
printing the following letter from one
Portuguese official to another in Africa,
till we saw the poor swagger of the
Lisbon official paper, evidently in-
tended for other statesmen in Europe.
The editor of a Cape paper says—
*‘ Chevalier Duprat has, by the same
opportunity, received a communication
from the Portuguese governor of Tette,
of which the following is a translation :
‘Sir,—When in the middle of last
year, was delivered to me by the hands
of Dr. Livingstone, the letters with
which your Excellency honoured me,
under date of April of that same year,
I was at that moment involved in war
with the Kafirs of the district of Senna.
After this, other works, affairs and
ailing health, prevented me from im-
mediately addressing to your Excel-
lency my thanks for the kind expres-
sions with which I have been honoured
by you. Your Excellency recom-
mended to me the illustrious Dr.
Livingstone. My relations with this
gentleman are so sympathetic that I
can never omit rendering him the ser-
vices which he requires, and which are
within my reach. Still, my wishes
are subordinate to my powers, both
as an individual and as an authority.
I am aware how profitable to geo-
graphical knowledge and science are
the explorations of the Doctor, as well
as to the prosperity of this country,—
as rich as neglected. I sincerely hope
it will be in my power to help him as
I could wish. Nevertheless, I assure
your Excellency that I will serve him
as far as lies in my power. It is said
that our Government is about to es-
Cuap. I. OFFICIAL TESTIMONY.
1
After the examination of three branches by the able
and energetic surveyor, Francis Skead, R.N., the Kongone
was found to be the best entrance. The immense amount
of sand brought down by the Zambesi has in the course of
ages formed a sort of promontory, against which the long
swell of the Indian Ocean, beating during the prevailing
winds, has formed bars, which, acting against the waters
The
Kongone is one of these lateral branches, and the safest ;
inasmuch as the bar has nearly two fathoms on it at low
of the delta, may have led to their exit sideways.
water, and the rise at spring tides is from twelve to fourteen
feet. The bar is narrow, the passage nearly straight, and,
were it buoyed and a beacon placed on Pearl Island,
would always be safe to a steamer. When the wind is from
the east or north, the bar is smooth; if from the south
and south-east, it has a heavy break on it, and is not to
be attempted in boats. A strong current setting to the east
when the tide is flowing, and to the west when ebbing,
may drag a boat or ship into the breakers. If one is
doubtful of his longitude and runs east, he will soon see the
land at Timbwe disappear away to the north; and coming
tablish a post at the bar of Luabo;
and from there to carry on direct navi-
gation to this district. Should this
take place, great advantages will re-
sult to this country, and to Living-
stone’s great glory, because he was
the first who passed over from the sea
by this way of communication. I
thank your Excellency for the news-
papers with which you furnished me.
I appreciate them as articles which
very seldom appear here. Your Ex-
cellency also obliged me with some
seeds; but, unfortunately, I was at
Mosambique, and having planted them
this year, they produced little; I fear
they were already old. My capability
for service is very limited, but if your
Excellency thinks that I can be of any
use, I shall be most gratified.
‘T have, &c.,
‘Trto A. p’A. Sricarp,
Governor of Tette.
‘ Tette, July 9, 1859.’
“These letters were brought to Natal
by H.M.’s brig ‘ Persian,’ which had
called there from Mosambique for
supplies, and were put on board the
‘ Waldensian,’ as she steamed out.”
Cc
18 THE KONGONE. Cuap. I.
west again, he can easily make out East Luabo from its great
size; and Kongone follows seven miles west. East Luabo has
a good but long bar, and not to be attempted unless the wind
be north-east or east. It has sometimes been called “ Barra
Catrina,” and was used in the embarkations of slaves. This
may have been the “River of Good Signs,” of Vasco da
Gama, as the mouth is more easily seen from the seaward
than any other; but the absence of the pillar dedicated by
that navigator to “St. Raphael,” leaves the matter in doubt.
No Portuguese live within eighty miles of any mouth of the
Zambesi. The names given by the natives refer more to
the land on each side than to the streams; thus, one side
of the Kongone is Nyamisenga, the other Nyangalule; and
Kongone, the name of a fish, is applied to one side of the
natural canal which leads into the Zambesi proper, or Cuama,
and gives the port its value.
When a native of the temperate north first lands in the
tropics, his feelings and emotions resemble in some respects
those which the First Man may have had on his entrance
into the Garden of Eden. He has set foot in a new world,
another state of existence is before him; everything he sees,
every sound that falls upon the ear, has all the freshness and
charm of novelty. The trees and the plants are new, the
flowers and the fruits, the beasts, the birds, and the insects
are curious and strange; the very sky itself is new, glowing
with colours, or sparkling with constellations, never seen in
northern climes.
The Kongone is five miles east of the Milambe, or western
branch, and seven miles west from East Luabo, which again is
five miles from the Timbwe. We saw but few natives, and
these, by escaping from their canoes into the mangrove
thickets the moment they caught sight of us, gave unmis-
=——
SES
SSSSs
Ti
= SSS
PANDANUS OR SCREW PALM, COVERED WITH CLIMBING PLANTS, NEAR THE
KONGONE CANAL OF THE ZAMBESI. ;
Cuap. I. SCENERY ON THE KONGONE. ig
takeable indications that they had no very favourable
opinion of white men. They were probably fugitives from
Portuguese slavery. In the grassy glades buffaloes, wart-
hogs, and three kinds of antelope were abundant, and the
latter easily obtained. A few hours’ hunting usually pro-
vided venison enough for a score of men for several days.
On proceeding up the Kongone branch it was found that,
by keeping well in the bends, which the current had worn
deep, shoals were easily avoided. The first twenty miles are
straight and deep; then a small and rather tortuous natural
canal leads off to the right, and, after about five miles, during
which the paddles almost touch the floating grass of the
sides, ends in the broad Zambesi. The rest of the Kongone
branch comes out of the main stream considerably higher
up as the outgoing branch called Doto.
The first twenty miles of the Kongone are enclosed in
mangrove jungle; some of the trees are ornamented with
orchilla weed, which appears never to have been gathered.
Huge ferns, palm bushes, and occasionally wild date-
palms peer out in the forest, which consists of different
species of mangroves; the bunches of bright yellow, though
scarcely edible fruit, contrasting prettily with the graceful
green leaves. In some spots the Milola, an umbrageous
hibiscus, with large yellowish flowers, grows in masses along
the bank. Its bark is made into cordage, and is especially
valuable for the manufacture of ropes attached to harpoons
for killing the hippopotamus. The Pandanus or screw-
palm, from which sugar-bags are made in the Mauritius,
also appears, and on coming out of the canal into the
Zambesi many are so tall as in the distance to remind us of
the steeples of our native land, and make us relish the
remark of an old sailor, “that but one thing was wanting to
c 2
20 FERTILITY OF SOIL. Cuapr. I.
complete the picture, and that was ‘a grog-shop near the
church.” We find also a few guava and lime-trees growing
wild, but the natives claim the crops. The dark woods resound
with the lively and exultant song of the kinghunter (Halcyon
striolata), as he sits perched on high among the trees. As
the steamer moves on through the winding channel, a pretty
little heron or bright kingfisher darts out in alarm from the
edge of the bank, flies on ahead a short distance, and settles
quietly down to be again frightened off in a few seconds
as we approach. The magnificent fishhawk (Halietus vocefer)
sits on the top of a mangrove-tree, digesting his morning
meal of fresh fish, and is clearly unwilling to stir until the
imminence of the danger compels him at last to spread his
great wings for flight. ‘The glossy ibis, acute of ear to a re-
markable degree, hears from afar the unwonted sound of the
paddles, and, springing from the mud where his family has
been quietly feasting, is off, screaming out his loud, harsh,
and defiant Ha! ha! ha! long before the danger is near.
The mangroves are now left behind and are succeeded by
vast level plains of rich dark soil, covered with gigantic
grasses, so tall that they tower over one’s head, and render
hunting impossible. Beginning in July the grass is burned
off every year after it has become dry. ‘These fires prevent
the growth of any great amount of timber, as only a few trees
from among the more hardy kinds, such as the Borassus-palm
and lignum-vite, can live through the sea of fire, which
annually roars across the plains.
Several native huts now peep out from the bananas and
cocoa-palms on the right bank; they stand on piles a few
feet above the low damp ground, and their owners enter them
by means of ladders. The soil is wonderfully rich, and the
gardens are really excellent. Rice is cultivated largely ;
Cuap. I. “COLONOS,” OR SERFS. 21
sweet potatoes, pumpkins, tomatoes, cabbages, onions (sha-
lots), peas, a little cotton, and sugar-cane are also raised.
It is said that English potatoes, when planted at Quillimane
on soil resembling this, in the course of two years become
in taste like sweet potatoes (convolvulus batatas), and are like
our potato frosted. The whole of the fertile region extending
from the Kongone canal to beyond Mazaro, some eighty
miles in length, and fifty in breadth, is admirably adapted for
the growth of sugar-cane; and were it in the hands of our
friends at the Cape, would supply all Europe with sugar.
The remarkably few people seen appeared to be tolerably
well fed, but there was a shivering dearth of clothing
among them; all were blacks, and nearly all Portu-
guese “colonos” or serfs. They manifested no fear of
white men, and stood in groups on the bank gazing
in astonishment at the steamers, especially at the “Pearl,”
which accompanied us thus far up the river. One old
man who came on board remarked that never before had
he seen any vessel so large as the “Pearl,” it was like a
village, “ Was it made out of one tree?” All were eager
traders, and soon came off to the ship in light swift canoes
with every kind of fruit and food they possessed; a few
brought honey and beeswax, which are found in quantities in
the mangrove forests. As the ships steamed off, many
anxious sellers ran along the bank, holding up fowls, baskets
of rice and meal, and shouting “ Malonda, Malonda,” “things
for sale,” while others followed in canoes, which they sent
through the water with great velocity by means of short
broad-bladed paddles.
The deep channel, or Qwete as the canoe-men call it,
of the Zambesi is winding, and narrow when con-
trasted with the great breadth of the river itself. The
22 DEEP CHANNEL OF RIVER. Cuar. J.
river bottom appears to be a succession of immense sub-
merged sandbanks, having, when the stream is low, from
one to four feet of water on them. The main channel runs
for some distance between the sandbank and the river's
bank, with a depth in the dry season varying from five to
fifteen feet, and a current of nearly two knots an hour. It
then turns and flows along the lower edge of the sandbank
in a diagonal direction across the river, and continues this
process, winding from bank to bank repeatedly during the
day’s sail, making expert navigators on the ocean feel help-
lessly at sea on the river. On these crossings the channel
is shallowest. It is in general pretty clearly defined. In
calm weather there is a peculiar boiling up of its water
from some action below. With a light breeze the Qwete
assumes a characteristic ripple, and when the wind freshens
and blows up the river, as it usually does from May to
November, the waves on it are larger than those of other
parts of the river, and a line of small breakers marks the
edge of the shoal-bank above.
Finding the “ Pearl’s” draught too great for that part
of the river near the island of Simbo, where the branch
called the Doto is given off to the Kongone on the right
bank, and another named Chinde departs to the secret
canal already mentioned on the left, the goods belonging
to the expedition were taken out of her, and placed on
one of the grassy islands about forty miles from the bar.
The “ Pearl” then left us, and we had to part with our good
friends Duncan and Skead; the former for Ceylon, the
latter to return to his duties as Government Surveyor at
the Cape.
Of those who eventually did the work of the expedition the
majority took a sober common-sense view of the enterprise
Cuap. I. EXPEDITION ISLAND, 23
in which we were engaged. Some remained on Expedition
Island from the 18th June until the 13th August, while the
launch and pinnace were carrying the goods up to Shupanga
and Senna. The country was in a state of war, our luggage
was in danger, and several of our party were exposed to
disease from inactivity in the malaria of the Delta. Here
some had their first introduction to African life, and African
fever. Those alone were safe who were actively employed
with the vessels, and of course, remembering the perilous
position of their fellows, they strained every nerve to finish
the work and take them away. ‘This was the time, too, for
the feeble-minded to make a demand for their Sundays of
rest and full meal-hours, which even our crew of twelve
Kroomen, though tampered with, had more sense and good-
feeling than to endorse. It is a pity that some people cannot
see that the true and honest discharge of the common duties
of every-day life is Divine Service.
The weather was delightful, with only an occasional shower
or cold foggy morning. Those who remained on the island
made the most of their time, taking meteorological and
magnetical observations, and botanizing, so far as the dried
vegetation would allow. No one seemed to place much
reliance on the “official report” of two naval commanders,
- who now, after about a fortnight’s experience in the Zambesi,
solemnly declared it to be “ more like an inland-sea than a
river, with a climate like that of Italy, and infinitely more
healthy than any river on the West Coast:”’ but, by the
leader’s advice, each began to examine and to record his
observations for himself, and did not take even his chief’s
previous experience as infallible.
Large columns of smoke rose daily from different points
of the horizon, showing that the natives were burning off the
24 BURNING OFF THE GRASS. Cuap. I.
immense crops of tall grass, here a nuisance, however valuable
elsewhere. A white cloud was often observed to rest on
the head of the column, as if a current of hot damp air
was sent up by the heat of the flames and its moisture was
condensed at the top. ain did not follow, though theorists
have imagined that in such cases it ought.
Large game, buffaloes, and zebras, were abundant abreast
the island, but no men could be seen. On the mainland,
over on the right bank of the river, we were amused by the
eccentric gyrations and evolutions of flocks of small seed-
eating birds, who in thei flight wheeled into compact
columns with such military precision as to give us the
impression that they must be guided by a leader, and
all directed by the same signal. Several other kinds of
small birds now go in flocks, and among others the large
Senegal swallow. The presence of this bird, being clearly in
a state of migration from the north, while the common
swallow of the country, and the brown kite are away beyond
the equator, leads to the conjecture that there may be a
double migration, namely, of birds from torrid climates to the
more temperate, as this now is, as well as from severe
winters to sunny regions; but this could not be verified by
such birds of passage as ourselves.
On reaching Mazaro, the mouth of a narrow creek which
in floods communicates with the Quillimane river, we found
that the Portuguese were at war with a half-caste named
Mariano alias Matakenya, from whom they had generally
fled, and who, having built a stockade near the mouth of
the Shire, owned all the country between that river and
Mazaro. Mariano was best known by his native name Mata-
kenya, which in their tongue means “trembling,” or quiver-
ing as trees do in a storm. He was a keen slaye-hunter, and
Cuap. I, ATROCITIES OF MARIANO. 25
kept a large number of men, well armed with muskets. It
is an entire mistake to suppose that the slave-trade is one of
buying and selling alone ; or that engagements can be made
with labourers in Africa as they are in India; Mariano, like
other Portuguese, had no labour to spare. He had been in
the habit of sending out armed parties on slave hunting-
forays among the helpless tribes to the north-east, and
carrying down the kidnapped victims in chains to Quilli-
mane, where they were sold by his brother-in-law Cruz
Coimbra, and shipped as ‘‘ Free emigrants” to the French
island of Bourbon. So long as his robberies and murders
were restricted to the natives at a distance, the authorities
did not interfere; but his men, trained to deeds of violence
and bloodshed in their slave forays, naturally began to
practise on the people nearer at hand, though belonging
to the Portuguese, and even in the village of Senna, under
the guns of the fort. A gentleman of the highest standing
told us that, while at dinner with his family, it was no un-
common event for a slave to rush into the room pursued
by one of Mariano’s men with spear in hand to murder him.
The atrocities of this villain, aptly termed by the late
governor of Quillimane a “notorious robber and murderer,”
became at length intolerable. All the Portuguese spoke of
him as a rare monster of inhumanity. It is unaccountable
why half-castes, such as he, are so much more cruel than
the Portuguese, but such is undoubtedly the case.
It was asserted that one of his favourite modes of creating
an impression in the country, and making his name dreaded,
was to spear his captives with his own hands. On one
occasion he is reported to have thus killed forty poor
wretches placed in a row before him. We did not at first
credit these statements, and thought that they were merely
26 CONTACT WITH THE “ REBELS,” Cuar. I.
exaggerations of the incensed Portuguese, who naturally
enough were exasperated with him for stopping their trade,
and harbouring their runaway slaves; but we learned after-
wards from the natives, that the accounts given us by the
Portuguese had not exceeded the truth; and that Mariano
was quite as great a ruffian as they had described him.
One expects slave-owners to treat their human chattels as
well as men do other animals of value, but the slave-trade
seems always to engender an unreasoning ferocity, if not
bloodthirstiness.
War was declared against Mariano, and a force sent to take
him; he resisted for a time; but seeing that he was likely to
get the worst of it, and knowing that the Portuguese gover-
nors have small salaries, and are therefore “disposed to be
reasonable,” he went down to Quillimane to “ arrange” with
the Governor, as it is termed here; but Colonel da Silva
put him in prison, and then sent him for trial to Mosambique.
When we came into the country, his people were fighting
under his brother Bonga. The war had lasted six months
and stopped all trade on the river during that period. On
the 15th June we first came into contact with the “rebels.”
They appeared as a crowd of well-armed and fantastically-
dressed people under the trees at Mazaro. On explaining
that we were English, some at once came on board and called
to those on shore to lay aside their arms. On landing among
them we saw that many had the branded marks of slaves
on their chests, but they warmly approved our objects, and
knew well the distinctive character of our nation on the
slave question. The shout at our departure contrasted
strongly with the suspicious questioning on our approach.
Henceforth we were recognised as friends by both parties.
At a later period we were taking in wood within a mile of
Cuar. I. FIGHT BETWEEN NATIVES AND PORTUGUESE. 27
the scene of action, but a dense fog prevented our hearing the
noise of a battle at Mazaro; and on arriving there, imme-
diately after, many natives and Portuguese appeared on the
bank.
Dr. Livingstone, landing to salute some of his old
friends among the latter, found himself in the sickening
smell, and among the mutilated bodies of the slain; he was
requested to take the Governor, who was very ill of fever,
across to Shupanga, and just as he gave his assent, the rebels
renewed the fight, and the balls began to whistle about in
all directions. After trying in vain to get some one to assist
the Governor down to the steamer, and unwilling to leave
him in such danger, as the officer sent to bring our Kroomen
did not appear, he went into the hut, and dragged along his
Excellency to the ship. He was a very tall man, and as he
swayed hither and thither from weakness, weighing down
Dr. Livingstone, it must have appeared like one drunken man
helping another. Some of the Portuguese white soldiers
stood fighting with great bravery against the enemy in
front, while a few were coolly shooting at their own slaves
for fleemg into the river behind. The rebels soon retired,
and the Portuguese escaped to a sandbank in the Zambesi,
and thence to an island opposite Shupanga, where they lay for
some weeks, looking at the rebels on the mainland opposite.
This state of imactivity on the part of the Portuguese
could not well be helped, as they had expended all their am-
munition and were waiting anxiously for supplies; hoping,
no doubt, sincerely that the enemy might not hear that
their powder had failed. Luckily their hopes were not
disappointed ; the rebels waited until a supply came, and
were then repulsed after three-and-a-half hours’ hard fighting.
Two months afterwards Mariano’s stockade was burned,
28 UNINTERESTING SCENERY. Cuap. I.
the garrison having fled in a panic; and as Bonga declared
that he did not wish to fight with this Governor, with whom
he had no quarrel, the war soon came to an end. His
Excellency meanwhile, being a disciple of Raspail, had
taken nothing for the fever but a little camphor, and
after he was taken to Shupanga became comatose. More
potent remedies were administered to him, to his intense
disgust, and he soon recovered. The Colonel in attendance,
whom he never afterwards forgave, encouraged the treat-
ment, “Give what is right; never mind him; he is very
(muito) impertinent :
99
and all night long, with every draught
of water the Colonel gave a quantity of quinine: the con-
sequence was, next morning the patient was cinchonized and
better. The sketch opposite represents the scene of action,
and is interesting in an historical point of view, because the
opening in which a large old canoe, with a hole in its bottom,
is seen lying on its side, is the mouth of the creek Mutu,
which in 1861 appeared in a map published by the Portu-
euese “ Minister of Marine and the Colonies” as that through
which the chief portion of the Zambesi, here about a mile
wide, flowed to Quillimane. In reality this creek, eight or
ten yards wide, is filled with grass, and its bed is six feet or
more above the level of the Zambesi. The side of the creek
opposite to the canoe is seen in the right of the picture, and
sloping down from the bed to one of the dead bodies, may be
marked the successive heights at which the water of the
main stream stood from flood time in March to its medium
height in June.
For sixty or seventy miles before reaching Mazaro, the
scenery is tame and uninteresting. On either hand is a
dreary uninhabited expanse, of the same level grassy plains,
with merely a few trees to relieve the painful monotony.
‘TONVLSIC THLE NI SIAAAN ANV ASAANALUYOd AO LHDIA—'OUVZVN AO AMAIA
HM
IAL
Cuap. I. BIRDS AND BEASTS ON RIVER. 29
The round green top of the stately palm-tree looks at a
distance, when its grey trunk cannot be seen, as thouch hune
in mid-air. Many flocks of busy sandmartins, which here,
and as far south as the Orange River, do not migrate, have
perforated the banks two or three feet horizontally, in order
to place their nests at the ends, and are now chasing on rest-
less wing the myriads of tropical insects. ‘The broad river
has many low islands, on which are seen various kinds of
waterfowl, such as geese, spoonbills, herons, and flamingoes.
Repulsive crocodiles, as with open jaws they sleep and bask
in the sun on the low banks, soon catch the sound of the
revolving paddles and glide quietly into the stream. The
hippopotamus, haying selected some still reach of the river
to spend the day, rises from the bottom, where he has been
enjoying his morning bath after the labours of the night on
shore, blows a puff of spray out of his nostrils, shakes the
water out of his ears, puts his enormous snout up straight
and yawns, sounding a loud alarm to the rest of the herd,
with notes as of a monster bassoon.
As we approach Mazaro the scenery improves. We see
the well-wooded Shupanga ridge stretching to the left, and
in front blue hills rise dimly far in the distance. There is no
trade whatever on the Zambesi below Mazaro. All the
merchandise of Senna and Tette is brought to that point in
large canoes, and thence carried six miles across the country
on men’s heads to be reshipped on a small stream that
flows into the Kwakwa, or Quillimane river, which is entirely
distinct from the Zambesi. Only on rare occasions and
during the highest floods can canoes pass from the Zambesi
to the Quillimane river through the narrow natural canal
Mutu. The natives of Maruru or the country around Mazaro,
the word Mazaro meaning the “mouth of the creek”
30 BURDEN OF TRIBUTE. Car. I.
Mutu, have a bad name among the Portuguese; they are
said to be expert thieves, and the merchants sometimes
suffer from their adroitness while the goods are in transit
from one river to the other. In general they are trained
canoe-men, and man many of the canoes that ply thence
to Senna and Tette; their pay is small, and, not trusting
the traders, they must always have it before they start.
Africans being prone to assign plausible reasons for their
conduct, like white men in more enlightened lands, it is
possible they may be goodhumouredly giving their reason
for insisting on being invariably paid in advance in the
words of their favourite canoe-song, “ Uachingere, Uachingere
Kale,” “You cheated me of old;” or, “Thou art slippery,
slippery truly.”
The Landeens or Zulus are lords of the right bank of the
Zambesi; and the Portuguese, by paying this fighting tribe a
pretty heavy annual tribute, practically admit this. Regularly
every year come the Zulus in force to Senna and Shupanga
for their accustomed tribute. The few wealthy merchants of
Senna groan under the burden, for it falls chiefly on them.
They submit to pay annually 200 pieces of cloth, of sixteen
yards each, besides beads and brass wire, knowing that
refusal involves war, which might end in the loss of all they
possess. The Zulus appear to keep as sharp a lock-out on
the Senna and Shupanga people as ever landlord did on
tenant; the more they cultivate, the more tribute they
have to pay. On asking some of them why ‘they did not
endeavour to raise certain highly profitable products, we were
answered, “ What’s the use of our cultivating any more than
we do? the Landeens would only come down on us for more
tribute.”
In the forests of Shupanga the Mokundu-kundu tree
* hey
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DANCE OF LANDEENS, OR ZULUS, ARRIVED AT SHUPANGA TO LIFT THE ANNUAL TRIBUTE
OF THE PORTUGUESE.
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THE GRAVE OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE UNDER THE BAOBAB TREE, NEAR TO SHUPANGA HOUSE.
Cuap. I. SHUPANGA. ol
abounds; its bright yellow wood makes good boat-masts,
and yields a strong bitter medicine for fever; the Gunda-tree
attains to an immense size; its timber is hard, rather cross-
grained, with masses of silica deposited in its substance ;
the large canoes, capable of carrying three or four tons, are
made of its wood. For permission to cut these trees, a Por-
tuguese gentleman of Quillimane was paying the Zulus, in
1858, two hundred dollars a year, and his successor now pays
three hundred.
At Shupanga, a one-storied stone house stands on the
prettiest site on the river. In front a sloping lawn, with a
fine mango orchard at its southern end, leads down to the
broad Zambesi, whose green islands repose on the sunny
bosom of the tranquil waters. Beyond, northwards, lie vast
fields and forests of palms and tropical trees, with the
massive mountain of Morambala towering amidst the white
clouds ; and further away more distant hills appear m the
blue horizon. This beautifully situated house possesses a
melancholy interest from haying been associated in a most
mournful manner with the history of two English expedi-
tions. Here, in 1826, poor Kirkpatrick, of Captain Owen’s
Surveying Expedition, died of fever; and here, in 1862, died,
of the same fatal disease, the beloved wife of Dr. Livingstone.
A hundred yards east of the house, under a large Baobab-
tree, far from their native land, both are buried.
The Shupanga-house was the head-quarters of the Governor
during the Mariano war. He told us that the province of
Mosambique costs the Home Government between 50002. and
6000/7. annually, and Hast Africa yields no reward in return
to the mother country. We met there several other influen-
tial Portuguese. All seemed friendly, and expressed their
willingness to assist the expedition in every way in their power ;
32 SERVICES OF DR. KIRK. Cuap. I.
and better still, Colonel Nunes and Major Sicard put their
good-will into action, by cutting wood for the steamer and
sending men to help in unloading. It was observable that not
one of them knew anything about the Kongone Mouth; all
thought that we had come in by the “ Barra Catrina,” or East
Luabo.* Dr. Kirk remained here a few weeks; and, besides
exploring a small lake twenty miles to the south-west, had the
sole medical care of the sick and wounded soldiers, for which
valuable services he received the thanks of the Portuguese
Government. We wooded up at this place with African ebony
or black wood, and lignum vite; the latter tree attains an
immense size, sometimes as much as four feet in diameter ;
our engineer, knowing what ebony and lignum vite cost at
home, said it made his heart sore to burn woods so valuable.
Though botanically different, they are extremely alike; the
black wood as grown in some districts is superior, and
the lignum vite inferior in quality, to these timbers brought
from other countries. Caoutchouc, or India-rubber, is found
in abundance inland from Shupanga-house, and calumba-root
is plentiful in the district ; indigo, in quantities, propagates
itself close to the banks of the river, and was probably at some
time cultivated, for manufactured indigo was once exported.
The India-rubber is made into balls for a game resembling
“fives,” and calumba-root is said to be used as a mordant
for certain colours, but not as a dye itself.
were washed away on one side and
deposited on the other.
is Moshoshoma ;’
The custom of exchanging names with men of other tribes,
is not uncommon ; and the exchangers regard themselves as
close comrades, owing special duties to each other ever after.
Should one by chance visit his comrade’s town, he expects to
receive food, lodging, and other friendly offices from him.
While Charles Livingstone was at Kebrabasa during the
rainy season, a hungry, shivering native traveller was made
a comrade for life, not by exchanging names, but by some
food and a small piece of cloth. Highteen months after,
while on our journey into the interior, a man came into
our camp, bringing a liberal present of rice, meal, beer,
and a fowl, and reminding us of what had been done for
him (which Charles Livingstone had entirely forgotten), said
that now seeing us travelling he “did not like us to sleep
hungry or thirsty.” Several of our men, like some people
at home, dropped their own names and adopted those of
the Chiefs; others were a little in advance of those who
take the surnames of higher people, for they took those of
the mountains, or cataracts we had seen on our travels.
We had a Chibisa, a Morambala, a Zomba, and a Kebrabasa,
and they were called by these names even after they had
returned to their own country.
We had been so much hindered and annoyed by the “Ma
Robert,” alas “Asthmatic,” that the reader, though a tithe
is not mentioned, may think we have said more than enough.
The man, who had been the chief means of imposing this
wretched craft on us, had passed away, and with him all
bitterness from our hearts. We felt it to be a sad pity,
however, that any one, for unfair gain, should dq deeds
which cannot be spoken of after he is gone. We had still
150 COMICAL CREATURES. Cuar. VI.
our much-esteemed and noble-hearted friend, the late Ad-
miral Washington, at home to see that we did not again
suffer; but the prospect of effecting a grand work on Lake
Nyassa, by means of a steamer, made to be unscrewed and
carried past the cataracts, was so fair,—indeed it promised, if
carried out, so entirely to change the wretched system, which
has been the bane of the country for ages,—that to have
the vessel properly constructed we sent Mr. Rae, the engineer,
home to superintend its construction. He could be of no
further use in the “Asthmatic,” as she was utterly beyond
cure. We sent also five boxes of specimens, carefully col-
lected and prepared by Dr. Kirk; four of them, to our very
ereat sorrow and loss, never arrived at the Gardens at
Kew. We all accompanied -our engineer on foot to a
small stream that runs into the Kwakwa, or river of Quil-
limane, on his way to that port to embark for England.
The distance from Mazaro, on the Zambesi side, to
the Kwakwa at Nterra, is about six miles, over a sur-
prisingly rich dark soil. We passed the night in the
long shed, erected at Nterra, on the banks of this river, for
the use of travellers, who have often to wait several days
for canoes; we tried to sleep, but the mosquitoes and rats
were so troublesome as to render sleep impossible. The
rats, or rather large mice, closely resembling Mus pumilio
(Smith), of this region, are quite facetious, and, having a great
deal of fun in them, often laugh heartily. Again and again
they woke us up by scampering over our faces, and then
bursting into a loud laugh of He! he! he! at having per-
formed the feat. Their sense of the ludicrous appears to
be exquisite; they screamed with laughter at the attempts,
which disturbed and angry human nature made in the dark
to bring their ill-timed merriment to a close. Unlike their
Cuap. VI. SCORPIONS—CENTIPEDES. 151
prudent European cousins, which are said to leave a sinking
ship, a party of these took up their quarters in our leaky
and sinking vessel. Quiet and invisible by day, they emerged
at night, and cut their funny pranks. No sooner were we all
asleep, than they made a sudden dash over the lockers and
across our faces for the cabin door, where all broke out into
a loud He! he! he! he! he! he! showing how keenly they
enjoyed the joke. They next went forward with as much
delight, and scampered over the men. Every night they went
fore and aft, rousing with impartial feet every sleeper, and
laughing to scorn the aimless blows, growls, and deadly rushes
of outraged humanity. We observed elsewhere, a species of
large mouse, nearly allied to Huryotis wnisuleatus (F. Cuvier),
escaping up a rough and not very upright wall, with six young
ones firmly attached to the perineum. They were old enough
to be well covered with hair, and some were not detached by
a blow which disabled the dam. We could not decide whether
any involuntary muscles were brought into play, in helping
the young to adhere. Their weight seemed to require a sort
of cataleptic state of the muscles of the jaw, to enable them
to hold on.
Scorpions, centipedes, and poisonous spiders also, were not
unfrequently brought into the ship with the wood, and oc-
casionally found their way into our beds; but, in every
instance, we were fortunate enough to discover and destroy
them, before they did any harm. Naval officers on this coast
report, that when scorpions and centipedes remain a few
weeks after being taken on board in a similar manner, their
poison loses nearly all its virulence, but this we did not verify.
Snakes sometimes came in with the wood, but oftener floated
down the river to us, climbing on board with ease by the
ehain-cable, and some poisonous ones were caught in the
/
192 ANNUAL TRIBUTE TO ZULUS. Cuar. VI.
cabin. A green snake lived with us several weeks, con-
cealing himself behind the casing of the deckhouse in the
daytime. ‘To be aroused in the dark by five feet of cold
green snake gliding over one’s face, is rather unpleasant,
however rapid the movement may be. Myriads of two
varieties of cockroaches infested the vessel; they not only
ate round the roots of our nails, but even devoured and
defiled our food, flannels, and boots; vain were all our
efforts to extirpate these destructive pests; if you kill one,
say the sailors, a hundred come down to his funeral! In the
work of Commodore Owen it is stated that cockroaches,
pounded into a paste, form a powerful carminative ; this has
not been confirmed, but when monkeys are fed on them they
are sure to become so lean as to suggest the idea, that for fat
people a course of cockroach might be as efficacious as a
course of Banting.
On coming to Senna, we found that the Zulus had arrived in
force for their annual tribute. These men are under good dis-
cipline, and never steal from the people. The tax is claimed on
the ground of conquest, the Zulus having formerly completely
overcome the Senna people, and chased them on to the islands
in the Zambesi. Fifty-four of the Portuguese were slain on
the occasion, and, notwithstanding the mud fort, the village
has never recovered its former power. Fever was now very
prevalent, and most of the Portuguese were down with it.
The village has a number of foul pools, filled with green, fetid
mud, in which horrid long-snouted greyhound-shaped pigs
wallow with delight. The greater part of the space enclosed
in the stockade, which is an oblong of say a thousand yards
by five hundred, is covered with tall indigo-plants, cassia,
and bushes, with mounds on which once stood churches and
monasteries. The air is not allowed free circulation, so it
Cuar. VI. : FEVER PLANT. 153
is not to be wondered at that men suffer from fever. The
feeding of the pigs is indescribably shocking; but they are a
favourite food themselves, and the owners may be heard,
both here and at Tette, recalling them from their wanderings,
by pet names, as “Joao,” “ Manoel,” “kudia! kudia! (to
eat, to eat), Antonio!” We saw a curious variety, which had
accidentally appeared among these otherwise uninteresting
brutes. A litter was beautifully marked with yellowish brown
and white stripes alternately, and the bands, about an inch
broad, were disposed, not as in the zebra, but horizontally
along the body. Stripes appear occasionally in mules and
in horses, and are supposed to show a reversion to the
original wild type, in the same way that highly-bred domestic
pigeons sometimes manifest a tendency to revert to the
plumage of the rock-pigeon, with its black bar across the tail.
This striped variety may betoken relationship to the original
wild pig, the young of which are distinctly banded, though
the marks fade as the animal grows up.
For a good view of the adjacent scenery, the hill, Bara-
muana, behind the village, was ascended. A caution was
given about the probability of an attack of fever from
a plant that grows near the summit. Dr. Kirk discovered
it to be the Pedevia fetida, which, when smelt, actually
does give headache and fever. It has a nasty fetor,
as its name indicates. ‘This is one instance in which fever
and a foul smell coincide. In a number of instances offen-
sive effluvia and fever seem to have no connexion. Owing
to the abundant rains, the crops in the Senna district were
plentiful; this was fortunate, after the partial failure of the
past two years. It was the 25th of April, 1860, before we
reached Tette; here also the crops were luxuriant, and the
people said that they had not had such abundance since 1856,
154 WANT OF IRRIGATION. Cuap. VI.
the year when Dr. Livingstone came down the river. It is
astonishing to any one who has seen the works for irrigation
in other countries, as at the Cape and in Egypt, that no
attempt has ever been made to lead out the water either of the
Zambesi or any of its tributaries; no machinery has ever been
used to raise it even from the stream, but droughts and star-
vation are endured, as if they were inevitable dispensations of
Providence, incapable of being mitigated. Our friends at
Tette, though heedless of the obvious advantages which other
nations would eagerly seize, have beaten the entire world in one
branch of industry. It is a sort of anomaly that the animal,
most nearly allied to man in structure and function, should be
the most alien to him in respect to labour, or trusty friendship ;
but here the genius of the monkey is turned to good account.
He is made to work in the chase of certain ‘“ wingless insects
better known than respected.” Having been invited to
witness this branch of Tette industry, we can testify that the
monkey took to it kindly, and it seemed profitable to both
patties.
Cuapr. VIL SAILOR’S GARDEN. 155
CHAPTER VII.
Prepare for a journey to the Makololo country — Sailors’ garden — Wheat,
time and mode of sowing — Start from Tette May 15th, to take the Makololo
home — Lukewarmness and desertions — Evil effects of contact with slaves
— Man lion and lion man — Reasoning with a lion — Popular belief — New
path through Kebrabasa hills — Sandia — Elephant-hunt—Game law —
A feast of elephant-meat — We strike Zambesi by Morumbwa, and complete
the survey of Kebrabasa from end to end—Banyai again— View of
Kebrabasa — Chicova plains and open river — Sandia’s report of Kebrabasa,
FEELING in honour bound to return with those who had been
the faithful companions of Dr. Livingstone, in 1856, and to
whose guardianship and services was due the accomplishment
of a journey which all the Portuguese at Tette had previously
pronounced impossible, the requisite steps were taken to
convey them to their homes.
We laid the ship alongside of the island Kanyimbe, opposite
Tette; and, before starting for the country of the Makololo,
obtained a small plot of land, to form a garden for the
two English sailors who were to remain in charge during
our absence. We furnished them with a supply of seeds,
and they set to work with such zeal, that they cer-
tainly merited success. ‘Their first attempt at African
horticulture met with failure from a most unexpected source;
every seed was dug up and the inside of it eaten by
mice. “Yes,” said an old native, next morning, on seeing
the husks, “that is what happens this month; for it is the
mouse month, and the seed should have been sown last month,
when I sowed mine.” ‘The sailors, however, sowed more
next day; and, being determined to outwit the mice, they
156 PREPARE FOR A JOURNEY. Cuapr. VII.
this time covered the beds over with grass. The onions, with
other seeds of plants cultivated by the Portuguese, are usually
planted in the beginning of April, in order to haye the
advantage of the cold season; the wheat a little later, for
the same reason. If sown at the beginning of the rainy
season in November, it runs, as before remarked, entirely to
straw; but, as the rains are nearly over in May, advantage is
taken of low-lying patches, which have been flooded by the
river. A hole is made in the mud with a hoe, a few seeds
dropped in, and the earth shoved back with the foot. If not
favoured with certain misty showers, which, lower down the
river, are simply fogs, water is borne from the river to the roots
of the wheat in earthen pots; and, in about four months, the
erop is ready for the sickle. The wheat of Tette is exported,
as the best grown in the country ; but a hollow spot at Maruru,
close by Mazaro, yielded very good crops, though just at the
level of the sea, as a few inches rise of tide shows.
A number of days were spent in busy preparation for our
journey ; the cloth, beads, and brass wire, for the trip, were
sewn up in old canvass, and each package had the bearer’s
name printed on it. The Makololo, who had worked for the
Expedition, were paid for their services, and every one who
had come down with the Doctor from the interior received
a present of cloth and ornaments, in order to protect
them from the greater cold of their own country, and
to show that they had not come in vain. Though called
Makololo by courtesy, as they were proud of the name, Kan-
yata, the principal headman, was the only real Makololo
of the party; and he, in virtue of his birth, had succeeded
to the chief place on the death of Sekwebu. The others be-
_ longed to the conquered tribes of the Batoka, Bashubia, Ba-
Selea, and Barotse. Some of these men had only added to
Cuap. VII. START FROM TETTE. 15%
their own vices those of the Tette slaves; others, by toiling
during the first two years in navigating canoes, and hunting
elephants, had often managed to save a little, to take back to
their own country, but had to part with it all for food to support
the rest in times of hunger, and, latterly, had fallen into the
improvident habits of slaves, and spent their surplus earnings
in beer and agua ardiente.
Hyerything being ready on the 15th of May, we started
at 2 p.m. from the village where the Makololo had dwelt.
A number of the men did not leave with the good-
will which their talk for months before had led us to
anticipate; but some proceeded upon being told that
they were not compelled to go unless they liked, though
others altogether declined moving. Many had taken up
with slave-women, whom they assisted in hoeing, and in con-
suming the produce of their gardens. Some fourteen children
had been born to them; and in consequence of now having no.
Chief to order them, or to claim their services, they thought
that they were about as well off as they had been in their
own country. They knew and regretted that they could
call neither wives nor children their own; the slave-owners
claimed the whole; but their natural affections had been so
enchained, that they clave to the domestic ties. By a law of
Portugal the baptized children of slave women are all free ; by
the custom of the Zambesi that law is void. When it is re-
ferred to, the officers laugh and say, “These Lisbon-born laws
are very stringent, but somehow, possibly from the heat of the
climate, here they lose all their force.” Only one woman
joined our party—the wife of a Batoka man: she had been
given to him, in consideration of his skilful dancing, by
the chief, Chisaka, A merchant sent three of his men along
with us, with a present for Sekeletu, and Major Sicard also lent
158 LUKEWARMNESS AND DESERTIONS. Cuar. VII.
us three more to assist us on our return, and two Portuguese
gentlemen kindly gave us the loan of a couple of donkeys.
We slept four miles above Tette, and hearing that the
Banyai, who levy heavy fines on the Portuguese traders, lived
chiefly on the right bank, we crossed over to the left, as we
could not fully trust our men. If the Banyai had come
in a threatening manner, our followers might perhaps, from
haying homes behind them, have even put down their bundles
and run. Indeed two of them, at this point, made up their
minds to go no further, and turned back to Tette. Another,
Monga, a Batoka, was much perplexed, and could not make
out what course to pursue, as he had, three years previously,
wounded Kanyata, the headman, with a spear. Thisis a capital
offence among the Makololo, and he was afraid of being put
to death for it on his return. He tried, in vain, to console
himself with the facts that he had neither father, mother,
sisters, nor brothers, to mourn for him, and that he could die
but ence. He was good, and would go up to the stars to Yesu,
and, therefore, did not care for death. In spite, however, of
these reflections, he was much cast down, until Kanyata assured
him that he would never mention his misdeed to the Chief ;
indeed, he had never even mentioned it to the Doctor, which
he would assuredly have done, had it lain heavy on his heart.
We were right glad of Monga’s company, for he was a merry
good-tempered fellow, and his lithe manly figure had always
been in the front in danger; and, from being left-handed,
had been easily recognised in the fight with elephants.
We commenced, for a certain number of days, with short
marches, walking gently until broken in to travel. This is of so
much importance that it occurs to us that more might be made
out of soldiers if the first few days’ marches were easy, and
gradually increased in length and quickness. The nights were
Cuap. VII. MAN LION. 159
cold, with heavy dews and occasional showers, and we had
several cases of fever. Some of the men deserted every night,
and we fully expected that all who had children would prefer
to return to Tette, for little ones are well known to prove the
strongest ties, even to slaves. It was useless informing them,
that if they wanted to return they had only to come and tell
us so; we should not be angry with them for preferring Tette
to their own country. Contact with slaves had destroyed their
sense of honour, they would not go in daylight, but de-
camped in the night, only in one instance, however, taking
our goods, though, in two more, they carried off their
comrades’ property. By the time we had got well into the
Kebrabasa hills, thirty men, nearly a third of the party, had
turned back, and it became evident that, if many more left
us, Sekeletu’s goods could not be carried up. At last, when
the refuse had fallen away, no more desertions took place.
Stopping one afternoon at a Kebrabasa village, a man,
who pretended to be able to change himself into a lion, came
to salute us. Smelling the gunpowder from a gun which
had been discharged, he went on one side to get out of
the wind of the piece, trembling in a most artistic manner,
but quite overacting his part. The Makololo explained to
us that he was a Pondoro, or a man who can change his
form at will, and added that he trembles when he smells
gunpowder. “Do you not see how he is trembling now?”
We told them to ask him to change himself at once into a
lion, and we would give him a cloth for the performance.
“ Oh, no,” replied they ; “if we tell him so, he may change him-
self and come when we are asleep and kill us.” Having similar
superstitions at home, they readily became as firm believers
in the Pondoro as the natives of the village. We were told
that he assumes the form of a lion and remains in the woods
160 POPULAR BELIEF. Cuar. VII.
for days, and is sometimes absent for a whole month. His
considerate wife had built him a hut or den, in which she
places food and beer for her transformed lord, whose metamor-
phosis does not impair his human appetite. No one ever
enters this hut except the Pondoro and his wife, and no
stranger is allowed even to rest his gun against the Baobab-
tree beside it: the Mfumo, or petty Chief, of another
small village wished to fine our men for placing their
muskets against an old tumble-down hut, it bemg that
of the Pondoro. At times the Pondoro employs his acquired
powers in hunting for the benefit of the village ; and, after an
absence of a day or two, his wife smells the lion, takes a certain
medicine, places it in the forest, and there quickly leaves it,
lest the lion should kill even her. ‘This medicine enables the
Pondoro to change himself back into a man, return to the
village, and say “Go and get the game that I have killed
for you.” Advantage is of course taken of what a lion has
done, and they go and bring home the buffalo or antelope
killed when he was a lion, or rather found when he was
patiently pursuing his course of deception in the forest. We
saw the Pondoro of another village dressed in a fantastic
style, with numerous charms hung round him, and followed
by a troop of boys who were honouring him with rounds
of shrill cheering.
It is believed also that the souls of departed Chiefs
enter into lions and render them sacred. On one occasion,
when we had shot a buffalo in the path beyond the Kafue,
a hungry lion, attracted probably by the smell of the
meat, came close to our camp, and roused up all hands by his
roaring. ‘Tuba Mokoro, imbued with the popular belief that the
beast was a Chief in disguise, scolded him roundly during his
brief intervals of silence. ‘ YouaChief,eh? You call your-
Caap. VII. REASONING WITH A LION. 161
self a Chief, do you? What kind of Chief are you to come
sneaking about in the dark, trying to steal our buffalo
meat! Are you not ashamed of yourself? A pretty Chief
truly; you are like the scavenger beetle, and think of your-
self only. You have not the heart of a Chief; why don’t you
kill your own beef? You must have a stone in your chest,
and no heart at all, indeed!” Tuba Mokoro producing no
impression on the transformed Chief, one of the men, the most
sedate of the party, who seldom spoke, took up the matter,
and tried the lion in another strain. In his slow quiet way
he expostulated with him on the impropriety of such conduct
to strangers, who had never injured him. “ We were travelling
peaceably through the country back to our own Chief. We
never killed people, nor stole anything. The buffalo meat
was ours, not his, and it did not become a great Chief like
him to be prowling round in the dark, trying, like a hyena,
to steal the meat of strangers. He might go and hunt for
himself, as there was plenty of game in the forest.” The
Pondoro, being deaf to reason, and only roaring the louder, the
men became angry, and threatened to send a ball through him
if he did not goaway. They snatched up their guns to shoot
him, but he prudently kept in the dark, outside of the lumi-
nous circle made by our camp fires, and there they did not
like to venture. A little strychnine was put into a piece of
meat, and thrown to him, when he soon departed, and we
heard no more of the majestic sneaker.
The Kebrabasa people were now plumper and in better
condition than on our former visits; the harvest had been
abundant; they had plenty to eat and drink, and they were
enjoying life as much as ever they could. At Defwe’s
village, near where the ship lay on her first ascent, we found
two Mfumos or headmen, the son and son-in-law of the former
M
162 PATH THROUGH KEBRABASA HILLS. Cuap. VII.
Chief. A sister's son has much more chance of succeeding to
a chieftainship than the Chief’s own offspring, it being un-
questionable that the sister’s child has the family blood. The
men are all marked across the nose and up the middle of the
forehead, with short horizontal bars or cicatrices ; anda single
brass earring of two or three inches diameter, like the ancient
Egyptia is worn by the men. Some wear the hair long
like the ancient Assyrians and Egyptians, and a few have
eyes with the downward and inward slant of the Chinese.
After fording the rapid Luia, we left our former path on
the banks of the Zambesi, and struck off in a N.W. direction
behind one of the hill ranges, the eastern end of which is called
Mongwa, the name of an acacia, having a peculiarly strong
fetor, found on it. Our route wound up a valley along a small
mountain-stream which was nearly dry, and then crossed the
rocky spurs of some of the lofty hills. The country was all
very dry at the time, and no water was found except in an oc-
casional spring and a few wells dug in the beds of water-
courses. The people were poor, and always anxious to convince
travellers of the fact. The men, unlike those on the plains,
spend a good deal of their time in hunting; this may be
because they have but little ground on the hill-sides suitable
for gardens, and but little certainty of reaping what may be
sown in the valleys. No women came forward in the hamlet,
east of Chiperiziwa, where we halted for the night. Two shots
had been fired at guinea-fowl a little way off in the valley ;
the women fled into the woods, and the men came to know if
war was meant, and a few of the old folks only returned after
hearing that we were for peace. The headman, Kambira,
apologized for not having a present ready, and afterwards
brought us some meal, a roasted coney (Hyrazx capensis) and
a pot of beer; he wished to be thought poor. The beer had
Cuar. VII. LAST OF THE DESERTERS. 165
come to him from a distance; he had none of his own. Like
the Manganja, these people salute by clapping their hands.
When a man comes to a place where others are seated, before
sitting down he claps his hands to each in succession, and they
do the same to him. If he has anything to tell, both speaker
and hearer clap their hands at the close of every paragraph,
and then again vigorously at the end of the speech. The
guide, whom the headman gave us, thus saluted each of his
comrades before he started off with us. There is so little
difference in the language, that all the tribes of this region
are virtually of one family.
We proceeded still in the same direction, and passed
only two small hamlets during the day. Except the noise
our men made on the march, everything was still around us:
few birds were seen, The appearance of a whydah-bird
showed that he had not yet parted with his fine long plumes.
We passed immense quantities of ebony and lignum-vite,
and the tree from whose smooth and bitter bark granaries
are made for corn. The country generally is clothed with a
forest of ordinary-sized trees. We slept in the little village
near Sindabwe, where our men contrived to purchase plenty
of beer, and were uncommonly boisterous all the evening.
We breakfasted next morning under green wild date-
palms, beside the fine flowery stream, which runs through
the charming valley of Zibah. We now had Mount Chi-
periziwa between us, and part of the river near Morumbwa,
having in fact come north about in order to avoid the diffi-
culties of our former path. The last of the deserters, a
reputed thief, took French leave of us here. He left the
bundle of cloth he was carrying in the path a hundred
yards in front of where we halted, but made off with the
musket and most of the brass rings and beads of his comrace
M 2
164 SANDIA., Cuar. VII,
Shirimba, who had unsuspectingly intrusted them to his
eare. .
Proceeding 8.W. up this lovely valley, m about an hour's
time we reached Sandia’s village. The Chief was said to
be absent hunting, and they did not know when he would
return. ‘This is such a common answer to the inquiry after
a headman, that one is inclined to think, that it only means
that they wish to know the stranger’s object, before exposing
their superior to danger. As some of our men wereill, a halt
was made here. Sandia’s people were very civil: a kinsman
of his came to see us in the evening, bringing a large pot of
beer: he did not like to see us eating with nothing to drink,
so brought it as a present. When at a distance from those
who are engaged in the slave-trade, there is much in the
manners of the natives, and their ways of speaking, to remind
us of the Patriarchs. The inhabitants of Zibah are Badéma,
and a wealthier class than those we have recently passed, with
more cloth, ornaments, food and luxuries. TF owls, eggs,
sugar-canes, sweet-potatoes, ground-nuts, turmeric, tomatoes,
chillies, rice, mapira (holcus sorghum), and maize, were
offered for sale in large quantities. The mapira may be
called the corn of the country. It is known as Kaffir and
Guinea corn, in the south and west; as dura in Egypt, and
badjery in India; the grain is‘round and white, or reddish-
white, about the size of the hemp-seed given to canaries.
Several hundred grains form a massive ear, on a stalk as thick
as an ordinary walking-staff, and from eight to eighteen feet
high. Tobacco, hemp, and cotton were also cultivated, as,
indeed, they are by all the people in Kebrabasa. In nearly
every village here, as in the Manganja hills, men are engaged
in spinning and weaving cotton of excellent quality.
As we were unable to march next morning, six of our young
Cuar. VII. ELEPHANT-HUNT—GAME LAW. 165
men, anxious to try their muskets, went off to hunt elephants.
For several hours they saw nothing, and some of them, getting
tired, proposed to go to a village and buy food. “No!” said
Mantlanyane, “ we came to hunt, so let us go on.” In a short
time they fell in with a herd of cow elephants and calves. As
soon as the first cow caught sight of the hunters on the rocks
above her, she, with true motherly instinct, placed her young
one between her fore-legs for protection. The men were
for scattermg, and firmg into the herd indiscriminately.
“That won’t do,’ cried Mantlanyane, “let us all fire at this
one.” The poor beast received a volley, and ran down into
the plain, where another shot killed her; the young one
escaped with the herd. The men were wild with excitement,
and danced round the fallen queen of the forest, with loud
shouts and exultant songs. ‘They returned, bearing as
trophies, the tail and part of the trunk, and marched into
camp as erect as soldiers, and evidently feeling that their
stature had increased considerably since the morning.
Sandia’s wife was duly informed of their success, as here a
law decrees that half the elephant belongs to the Chief on
whose ground it has been killed. The Portuguese traders
always submit to this tax, and, were it of native origin, it
could hardly be considered unjust. A Chief must have some
source of revenue; and, as many Chiefs can raise none except
from ivory or slayes, this tax is more free from objections than
any other that a black Chancellor of the Exchequer could
devise. It seems, however, to have originated with the Portu-
guese themselves, and then to have spread among the adjacent
tribes. The Governors look sharply after any elephant that
may be slain on the Crown lands, and demand one of the tusks
from their vassals. We did not find the law in operation in any
tribe beyond the range of Portuguese traders, or further than
166 CUTTING UP AN ELEPHANT. Cuar. VII.
the sphere of travel of those Arabs who imitated Portuguese
customs in trade. At the Kafue in 1855 the Chiefs bought the
meat we killed, and demanded nothing as their due ; and so it
was up the Shire during our visits. The slaves of the Portu-
euese, who are sent by their masters to shoot elephants, pro-
bably connive at the extension of this law, for they strive to
eet the good will of the Chiefs to whose country they come,
by advising them to make a demand of half of each
elephant killed, and for this advice they are well paid in
beer. When we found that the Portuguese argued in favour
of this law, we told the natives that they might exact
tusks from them, but that the English, being different,
preferred the pure native custom. It was this which made
Sandia, as afterwards mentioned, hesitate ; but we did not care
to insist on exemption in our favour, where the prevalence of
the custom might have been held to justify the exaction.
Sandia’s wife said that she had sent a messenger to her
husband on the day of our arrival, and soon expected his return ;
but that some of his people would go with our men in the morn-
ing, and receive what we chose to give. We accompanied our
hanters across the hills to the elephant vale, north of Zibah.
It was a beautiful valley covered with tall heavy-seeded
grass, on which the elephants had been quietly feeding when
attacked. We found the carcass undisturbed, an enormous
mass of meat.
The cutting up of an elephant is quite a unique spee-
tacle. The men stand round the animal in dead silence,
while the chief of the travelling party declares that, ac-
cording to ancient law, the head and right hind-leg belong
to him who killed the beast, that is, to him who inflicted
the first wound; the left lee to him who delivered the
second, or first touched the animal after it fell. The meat
Caap. VII. THE IFE-PLANT. Ge
around the eye to the English, or chief of the travellers,
and different parts to the headmen of the different fires,
or groups, of which the camp is composed; not forgetting
to enjoin the preservation of the fat and bowels for a second
distribution. This oration finished, the natives soon become
excited, and scream wildly as they cut away at the carcass
with a score of spears, whose long handles quiver in the’
air above their heads. Their excitement becomes momen-
tarily more and more intense, and reaches the culminating
point when, as denoted by a roar of gas, the huge mass is
laid fairly open. Some jump inside, and roll about there in
their eagerness to seize the precious fat, while others run off,
screaming, with pieces of the bloody meat, throw it on the
grass, and run back for more: all keep talking and shouting
at the utmost pitch of their voices. Sometimes two or three,
regardless of all laws, seize the same piece of meat, and have
a brief fight of words over it. Occasionally an agonized yell
bursts forth, and a native emerges out of the moving mass of
dead elephant and wriggling humanity, with his hand badly
cut by the spear of his excited friend and neighbour: this
requires a rag and some soothing words to prevent bad blood.
In an incredibly short time tons of meat are cut up, and
placed in separate heaps around.
Sandia arrived soon after the beast was divided’ he is an
elderly man, and wears a wig made of ife fibre (sanseviera)
dyed black, and of a fine glossy appearance. This plant
is allied to the aloes, and its thick fleshy leaves, in shape
somewhat like our sedges, when bruised yield much fine
strong fibre, which is made into ropes, nets, and wigs. It takes
dyes readily, and the fibre might form a good article of com-
merce. Ife wigs, as we afterwards saw, are not uncommon
in this country, though perhaps not so common as hair wigs at
168 SANDIA AND HIS CABINET. Cuar. VIE.
home. Sandia’s mosamela, or small carved wooden pillow,
exactly resembling the ancient Egyptian one, was hung from
the back of his neck; this pillow and a sleepmg mat are
usually carried by natives when on hunting excursions. ‘The
Chief visited the different camp-fires of our men, and accepted
presents of meat from them; but said that he should like to
consume it with his elders, as he wished to consult them
whether he ought to receive the half of the elephant from the
Enelishmen. His Cabinet, seeing no good reason for departing
from the established custom, concluded that it was best to treat
white tax-payers as on a perfect equality with black ones, and
to accept the half which belonged to Sandia’s Government. In
the afternoon the Chief returned with his counsellors, accom-
panied by his wife and several other women, carrying five pots
of beer: three, he explained, were a present to the white men,
and the other two were intended for sale. The women have
a remarkably erect gait, probably from having been accus-
tomed from infancy to carry heavy water-pots on their heads.
This brings all the'muscles of the back into play, and might
prove beneficial as a practice to those who are troubled with
weakness of spine among ourselyes. They use a piece of
wood between the head and pot, perhaps for elegance.
We had the elephant’s fore-foot cooked for ourselves, in
native fashion. A large hole was dug in the ground, in
which a fire was made; and, when the inside was thoroughly
heated, the entire foot was jplaced in it, and covered over
with the hot ashes and soil ; another fire was made above the
whoie, and kept burning all night. We had the foot thus
cooked for breakfast next morning, and found it delicious. It
is a whitish mass, slightly gelatinous, and sweet, like marrow.
A long march, to prevent biliousness, is a wise precaution
after a meal of elephant’s foot. Elephant’s trunk and tongue
Cuar. VII. MODE OF MAKING PORRIDGE. 169
are also good, and, after long simmering, much resemble
the hump of a buffalo, and the tongue of an ox; but all the
other meat is tough, and, from its peculiar flavour, only to be
eaten by a hungry man. The quantities of meat our men
devour is quite astounding. They boil as much as their
pots will hold, and eat till it becomes physically impossible
for them to stow away any more. An uproarious dance
follows, accompanied with stentorian song; and as soon
as they have shaken their first course down, and washed off
the sweat and dust of the after performance, they go to work
to roast more: a short snatch of sleep succeeds, and they are
up and at it again; all night long it is boil and eat, roast and
deyour, with a few brief interludes of sleep. Like other car-
nivora these men can endure hunger for a much longer period
than the mere porridge-eating tribes, Our men can cook meat
as well as any reasonable traveller could desire ; and, boiled in
earthen pots, like Indian chatties, it tastes much better than
when cooked in iron ones.
Their porridge is a failure, at least for a Scotch diges-
tion that has been impaired by fever. When on a journey,
unaccompanied by women, as soon as the water is hot,
they tumble in the meal by handfuls in rapid succession,
until it becomes too thick to stir about, when it is
whipped off the fire, and placed on the ground} an assist-
ant then holds the pot, whilst the cook, grasping the stick
with both hands, exerts his utmost strength in giving it a
number of circular turns, to mix and prevent the solid mass
from being burnt by the heat. It is then served up to us,
the cook retaining the usual perquisite of as much as can be
induced to adhere to the stick, when he takes it from the pot.
By this process, the meal is merely moistened and warmed,
but not boiled; much of it being raw, it always causes
170 LEAVE THE ELEPHANT VALLEY. Cuap. VII.
heartburn. This is the only mode that the natives have of
cooking the mapira meal. They seldom, if ever, bake it mto
cakes, like oatmeal; for, though finely ground and beauti-
fully white, it will not cohere readily. Maize meal is formed
into dough more readily, but that too is inferior to wheaten
flour, or even oatmeal, for baking. It was rather difficult to
persuade the men to boil the porridge for us more patiently ;
and they became witty, and joked us for being like women,
when the weakness of fever compelled us to pay some attention
to the cooking, evidently thinking that it was beneath the
dignity of white men to stoop to such matters. They look
upon the meal and water porridge of the black tribes as the
English used to do upon the French frogs, and call the eaters
“mere water-porridge fellows,” while the Makololo’s meal and
milk porridge takes the character of English roast-beef.
Sandia gave us two guides; and on the 4th of June we
left the Elephant valley, taking a westerly course; and, after
crossing a few ridges, entered the Chingerere or Paguru-
euru valley, through which, in the rainy season, runs the
streamlet Pajodze. The mountains on our left, between
us and the Zambesi, our guides told us have the same
name as the valley, but that at the confluence of the
Pajodze is called Morumbwa. We struck the river at
less than half a mile to the north of the cataract Mo-
rumbwa. On climbing up the base of this mountain at
Pajodze, we found that we were distant only the diameter
of the mountain from the cataract. In measuring the cataract
we formerly stood on its southern flank; now we were perched
on its northern flank, and at once recognised the onion-
shaped mountain, here called Zakavuma, whose smooth con-
vex surface overlooks the broken water. Its bearing by
compass was 180° trom the spot to which we had climbed
Cuapv. VII. A BANYAI HEADMAN’S DEMAND. ae
and 700 or 800 yards distant. We now, from this standing-
point, therefore, completed our inspection of all Kebrabasa, and
saw what, as a whole, was never before seen by Europeans so
far as any records show.
The difference of level between Pajodze and Tette, as
shown by the barometer, was about 160 feet; but it must
be remembered that we had no simultaneous observations at
the two stations. The somewhat conical shape of Zaka-
vuma standing on the right, and the more castellated
form of Morumbwa on the left, constitute the narrow gate-
way in which the cataract exists. The talus of each portal,
keeping close together northwards, makes a narrow, upright-
sided trough from the cataract up to Pajodze. The deep
green river winds in it among massive black angular rocks ;
above this, as far as Chicova, the Zambesi again has a flood
bed and a deep waterworn groove, like that near the lower
end of Kebrabasa, but the flood bed is only 200 or 300
yards broad, and the stream in this part of the groove
is adorned in various places with the white foam of a
number of small rapids. By the motion of pieces of
wood in the water, and timed by a watch, the current
was ascertained to be from 3°53 to 4:1 knots per hour
in the more rapid places. We breakfasted a short dis-
tance above Pajodze. At a comparatively smooth part
of the Zambesi, called Movuzi, still further up, where
traders sometimes cross from the southern to the northern
bank, a Banyai headman came over with a dozen armed
followers, and in an insolent way demanded payment for
leave to pass on our way. ‘This was not a friendly
request for a present, so our men told him that it was
not the custom of the English to pay fines for nothing ;
and, being unsuccessful, he went quietly back again. One
172 MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAIN SCENERY. Cuap. VII.
Chief of the Banyai on the opposite bank is called Zuda,
which the Portuguese translate into Judas, on account of his
grasping propensities. Talking of us to some of our party, he
said, “These men passed me going down and gaye me
nothing; the English cloth is good; Iam come to clothe
myself with it now as they go up.” His messenger came and
sat down impudently in our midst before we rose from
breakfast, and began an oration, not to us, but to his atten-
dant. This talking at us roused the Makololo’s ire, and
they replied that ‘English cloth was good; and Englishmen
paid for all they ate. They were now walking on God’s earth
in peace, doing no harm to the country or gardens, though
English guns had six mouths, and English balls travelled far,
and hit hard.” However, by keeping on the left bank, we
avoided collision with these troublesome and exacting Banya,
The remainder of the Kebrabasa path, on to Chicova, was
close to the compressed and rocky river. Ranges of lofty
tree-covered mountains, with deep narrow valleys, in which
are dry watercourses, or flowing rivulets, stretch from the
north-west, and are prolonged on the opposite side of the
river in a south-easterly direction. Looking back, the moun-
tain scenery in Kebrabasa was magnificent ; conspicuous from
their form and steep sides, are the two gigantic portals of the
cataract; the vast forests still wore their many brilliant
autumnal-coloured tints of green, yellow, red, purple, and
brown, thrown into relief by the grey bark of the trunks in
the background. Among these variegated trees were some con-
spicuous for their new livery of fresh light-green leaves, as
though the winter of others was their spring. The bright sun-
shine in these mountain forests, and the ever-changing forms
of the cloud shadows, gliding over portions of the surface,
added fresh charms to scenes already surpassingly beautiful.
Cuar. VII. SANDIA’S REPORT OF KEBRABASA. 173
From what we have seen of the Kebrabasa rocks and
rapids, it appears too evident that they must always form a
barrier to navigation at the ordinary low water of the river ;
but the rise of the water in this gorge being as much as eighty
feet perpendicularly, it is probable that a steamer might be
taken up at high flood, when all the rapids are smoothed
over, to run on the upper Zambesi. The most formidable cata-
ract in it, Morumbwa, has only about twenty feet of fall, in
a distance of thirty yards, and it must entirely disappear when
the water stands eighty feet higher. Those of the Makololo
who worked on board the ship were not sorry at the steamer
being left below, as they had become heartily tired of cutting
the wood that the insatiable furnace of the “ Asthmatic” re-
quired. Mbia, who was a bit of a wag, laughingly exclaimed
in broken English, “ Oh, Kebrabasa good, very good; no let
shippee up to Sekeletu, too muchee work, cuttee woodyee,
cuttee woodyee: Kebrabasa good.” It is currently reported,
and commonly believed, that once upon a time a Portuguese
named José Pedra,—by the natives called Nyamatimbira,—
Chief, or capitio mor, of Zumbo, a man of large enterprise
and small humanity,—being anxious to ascertain if Kebrabasa
could be navigated, made two slaves fast to a canoe, and
launched it from Chicova into Kebrabasa, in order to see if
it would come out at the other end. As neither slaves nor
canoe ever appeared again, his Excellency concluded that
Kebrabasa was unnavigable. A trader had a large canoe
swept away by a sudden rise of the river, and it was found
without damage below; but the most satisfactory infor-
mation was that of old Sandia, who asserted that in flood
ail Kebrabasa became quite smooth, and he had often seen
it so.
174 MODE OF MAKING FIRE. Cuap, VO:
CHAPTER. Vou
Pass from Kebrabasa on to Chicova on 7th June, 1860 — Native travellers’
mode of making fire — Night arrangements of the camp— Native names of
Stars — Moon-blindness — Our volunteer fireman — Native political discus-
sions — Our manner of marching — Not to make toil of a pleasure —The
civilized show more endurance than the uncivilized — Chitora’s politeness —
Filtered water preferred by native women— Whites hobgoblins to the
blacks — The fear of man on wild animals — First impressions of a donkey’s
vocal powers.
WE emerged from the thirty-five or forty miles of Kebrabasa
hills into the Chicova plains on the 7th of June, 1860,
having made short marches all the way. The cold nights
caused some of our men to cough badly, and colds in this
country almost invariably become fever. The Zambesi sud-
denly expands at Chicova, and assumes the size and appear-
ance it has at Tette. Near this point we found a large seam
of coal exposed in the left bank.
We met with native travellers occasionally. Those
on a long journey carry with them a sleeping-mat and
wooden pillow, cooking-pot and bag of meal, pipe and
tobacco-pouch, a knife, bow, and arrows, and-two small sticks,
of from two to three feet in length, for making fire, when
obliged to sleep away from human habitations.. Dry wood
is always abundant, and they get fire by the following
method.
by these insects.” 'The reddish ant, in the west called drivers,
crossed our path daily, in solid columns an inch wide, and
never did the pugnacity of either man or beast exceed theirs.
It is a sufficient cause of war if you only approach them,
even by accident. Some turn out of the ranks and stand
with open mandibles, or, charging with extended jaws, bite
with savage ferocity. When hunting, we lighted among them
Cuar, IX. MONKEYS RESPECTED. 1
too often; while we were intent on the game, and with-
out a thought of ants, they quietly covered us from head
to foot, then all began to bite at the same instant; seizing
a piece of the skin with their powerful pincers, they twisted
themselves round with it, as if determined to tear it out.
Their bites are so terribly sharp that the bravest must run,
and then strip to pick off those that still cling with their
hooked jaws, as with steel forceps. This kind abounds in
damp places, and is usually met with on the banks of
streams. We have not heard of their actually killing any
animal except the Python, and that only when gorged
and quite lethargic, but they soon clear away any dead
animal matter; this appears to be their principal food,
and their use in the economy of nature is clearly im the
scavenger line.
We started from the Sinjére on the 12th of June, our
men carrying with them bundles of hippopotamus meat
for sale, and for future use. We rested for breakfast
opposite the Kakolole dyke, which confines the channel,
west of the Manyerére mountain. A rogue monkey, the
largest by far that we ever saw, and very fat and tame,
walked off leisurely from a garden as we approached. The
monkey is a sacred animal in this region, and is never
molested or killed, because the people believe devoutly that
the souls of their ancestors now occupy these degraded forms,
and anticipate that they themselves must, sooner or later, be
transformed in like manner; a future as cheerless for the
black, as the spirit-rapper’s heaven is for the whites. The
gardens are separated from each other by a siigle row of
small stones, a few handfuls of grass, or a slight furrow made
by the hoe. Some are enclosed by a reed fence of the
flimsiest construction, yet sufficient to keep out the ever wary
192 SALT-MAKING—MOUNTAINS. Cuap. IX-
hippopotamus, who dreads a trap. His extreme caution is
taken advantage of by the women, who hang, as a minia-
ture trap-beam, a kigelia fruit with a bit of stick in
the end. This protects the maize, of which he is excessively
fond.
The women are accustomed to transact business for them-
selves. They accompany the men into camp, sell their own
wares, and appear to be both fair traders, and modest sensible
persons. Elsewhere they bring things for sale on their heads,
and, kneeling at a respectful distance, wait till their husbands
or fathers, who have gone forward, choose to return, and to
take their goods, and barter for them. Perhaps in this parti-
cular, the women here occupy the golden mean between the
Manganja hill-tribes and the Jaggas of the north, who live on
the mountain summits near Kilimanjaro. It is said that at
the latter place the women do ail the trading, have regular
markets, and will on no account allow a man to enter the
market-place.
The quantity of hippopotamus meat eaten by our men
made some of them ill, and our marches were necessarily
short. After three hours’ travel on the 13th, we spent the
remainder of the day at the village of Chasiribera, on a
rivulet flowing through a beautiful valley to the north, which
is bounded by magnificent mountain-ranges. Pinkwe, or
Mbingwe, otherwise Moeu, forms the south-eastern angle
of the range. On the 16th June we were at the flourish-
ing village of Senga, under the headman Manyame, which
lies at the foot of the mount Motemwa. Nearly all
the mountains in this country are covered with open
forest and grass, in colour, according to the season, green
or yellow. Many are between 2000 and 3000 feet high, with
the sky line fringed with trees; the rocks show just suffi-
Cuap. IX. CHIKWANITSELA. 193
ciently for one to observe their stratification, or their granitic
form, and though not covered with dense masses of climbing
plants, like those in moister eastern climates, there is still
the idea conveyed that most of the steep sides are fertile,
and none give the impression of that barrenness which, in
northern mountains, suggests the idea, that the bones of
the world are sticking through its skin.
The villagers reported that we were on the footsteps of
a Portuguese half-caste, who, at Senga, lately tried to
purchase ivory, but, in consequence of his having mur-
dered a Chief near Zumbo and twenty of his men, the
people declined to trade with him. He threatened to
take the ivory by force, if they would not sell it; but that
same night the ivory and the women were spirited out of
the village, and only a large body of armed men remained.
The trader, fearing that he might come off second best if it
came to blows, immediately departed. Chikwanitsela, or Se-
kuanangila is the paramount Chief of some fifty miles of the
northern bank of the Zambesi in this locality. He lives on
the opposite, or southern side, and there his territory is still
more extensive. We sent him a present from Senga, and were
informed by a messenger next morning that he had a cough
and could not come over to see us. “And has his present a
cough too,” remarked one of our party, “that it does not come
to us? Is this the way your Chief treats strangers, receives
their present, and sends them no food in return?” Our
men thought Chikwanitsela an uncommonly stingy fellow ;
but, as it was possible that some of them might yet wish
to return this way, they did not like to scold him more
than this, which was sufficiently to the point.
Men and women were busily engaged in preparing the
ground for the November planting. Large game was abun-
O
194 AFFLICTIONS OF BEASTS. Cuar. IX.
dant; herds of elephants and buffaloes came down to the river
in the night, but were a long way off by daylight. They soon
adopt this habit in places where they are hunted.
The plains we travel over are constantly varying in
breadth, according as the furrowed and wooded hills approach
or recede from the river. On the southern side we see the
hill Bunewe, and the long, level, wooded ridge Nyangombe,
the first of a series bending from the 8. E. to the N.W. past
the Zambesi. We shot an old pallah on the 16th, and
found that the poor animal had been visited with more
than the usual share of animal afflictions. He was stoner
blind in both eyes, had several tumours, and a broken
leg, which showed no symptoms of ever having begun to
heal. Wild animals sometimes suffer a great deal from
disease, and wearily drag on a miserable existence before
relieved of it by some ravenous beast. Once we drove off
a maneless lion and lioness from a dead buffalo, which had
been in the last stage of a decline. They had watched him
staggering to the river to quench his thirst, and sprang
on him as he was crawling up the bank. One had caught him
by the throat, and the other by his high projecting backbone,
which was broken by the lion’s powerful fangs. The struggle,
if any, must have been short. They had only eaten the
intestines when we frightened them off. It is curious that this
is the part that wild animals always begin with, and that
it is also the first choice of our men. Were it not a wise
arrangement that only the strongest males should continue
the breed, one could hardly help pitying the solitary buffalo
expelled from the herd for some physical blemish, or on account
of the weakness of approaching old age. Banished from the
softening influences of female society, he naturally becomes
morose and savage; the necessary watchfulness against enemies
Cuap. IX. MPENDE. 195
is now neyer shared by others; disgusted, he passes into a state
of chronic war with all who enjoy life, and the sooner after his
expulsion that he fills the lion’s or the wild-dog’s maw, the
better for himself and for the peace of the country. Though
we are not disposed to be didactic, the idea of a crusty old
bachelor or of a cantankerous husband will rise up in our
minds; to this human buffalo, at whose approach wife and
children, or poor relations, hold their breath with awe, we
cannot extend one grain of pity; because it is not infirmity
of temper this brute can plead, seeing that, when in the herd
with his equals, he is invariably polite, and only exercises his
tyranny when with those who cannot thrash him into decency.
We encamped on the 20th of June at a spot, where Dr.
Livingstone, on his journey from the West to the Hast Coast,
was formerly menaced by a Chief named Mpende. No offence
had been committed against him, but he had firearms, and, with
the express object of showing his power, he threatened to attack
the strangers. Mpende’s counsellors having, however, found
out that Dr. Livingstone belonged to a tribe of whom they
had heard that “they loved the black man and did not make
slaves,” his conduct at once changed from enmity to kindness,
and, as the place was one well selected for defence, it was per-
haps quite as well for Mpende that he decided as he did.
Three of his counsellors now visited us, and we gave them
a handsome present for their Chief, who came himself next
morning and made us a present of a goat, a basket of boiled
maize, and another of vetches. A few miles above this, the
headman, Chilondo of Nyamasusa, apologized for not formerly
lending us canoes. “He was absent, and his children were to
blame for not telling him when the Doctor passed; he did not
refuse the canoes.” The sight of our men, now armed with
muskets, had a great effect. Without any bullying, firearms
0 2
196 MONAHENG MURDERED. Cuap. 1X,
command respect, and lead men to be reasonable who might
otherwise feel disposed to be troublesome. Nothing, however,
our fracas with Mpende excepted, could be more peaceful
than our passage through this tract of country in 1856. We
then had nothing to excite the cupidity of the people, and the
men maintained themselves, either by selling elephant’s meat,
or by exhibiting feats of foreign dancing. Most of the people
were very generous and friendly ; but the Banyai, nearer to
Tette than this, stopped our march with a threatening war-
dance. One of our party, terrified at this, ran away, as
we thought, insane, and could not, after a painful search
of three days, be found. The Banyai, evidently touched
by our distress, allowed us to proceed. Through a man we
left on an island a little below Mpende’s, we subsequently
learned that poor Monaheng had fled thither and had been
murdered by the headman for no reason except that he was
defenceless. This headman had since become odious to his
countrymen, and had been put to death by them.
Our path leads frequently through vast expanses of
apparently solitary scenery ; a strange stillness pervades the
air; no sound is heard from bird or beast or living thing ; no
village is near; the air is still, and earth and sky have sunk
into a deep, sultry repose, and like a lonely ship on the de-
sert sea is the long winding line of weary travellers on the
hot, glaring plain. We discover that we are not alone in the
wilderness ; other living forms are round about us, with curious
eyes on all our movements. As we enter a piece of wood-
land, an unexpected herd of pallahs, or waterbucks, suddenly
appears, standing as quiet and still, as if constituting a part
of the landscape ; or, we pass a clump of thick thorns, and
see through the bushes the dim phantom-like forms of buffaloes,
their heads lowered, gazing at us with fierce untameable
Cuap. IX, PANGOLA. La
eyes. Again a sharp turn brings us upon a native, who has
seen us from afar, and comes with noiseless footsteps to get
a nearer view.
On the 23rd of June we entered Pangola’s principal village,
which is upwards ofa mile from the river. The ruins of a mud
wall showed that a rude attempt had been made to imitate
the Portuguese style of building. We established ourselves
under a stately wild fig-tree, round whose trunk witchcraft
medicine had been tied, to protect from thieves the honey of
the wild bees, which had their hive in one of the limbs.
This is a common device. The charm, or the medicine, is
purchased of the dice doctors, and consists of a strip of palm-
leaf smeared with something, and adorned with a few bits of
grass, wood, or roots. It is tied round the tree, and is believed to
have the power of inflicting disease and death on the thief who
climbs over it. Superstition is thus not without its uses in
certain states of society; it prevents many crimes and
misdemeanors, which would occur, but for the salutary fear
that it produces.
Pangola arrived, tipsy and talkative-—* We are friends, we
are great friends ; 1 have brought you a basket of green maize
—here itis!” We thanked him, and handed him two fathoms
of cotton cloth, four times the market-value of his present. No,
he would not take so small a present; he wanted a double-
barrelled rifle—one of Dixon’s best. ‘We are friends, you
know; we are all friends together.” But although we were will-
ing to admit that, we could not give him our best rifle, so he
went off in high dudgeon. Early next morning, as we were
commencing Divine service, Pangola returned, sober. We
explained to him that we wished to worship God, and invited
him to remain; he seemed frightened and retired: but after
service he again importuned us for the rifle. It was of no use
198 FATE OF AFRICAN EMPIRES. Cuap. IX.
telling him that we had a long journey before us, and needed
it to kill game for ourselves.—* He too must obtain meat for
himself and people, for they sometimes suffered from hunger.”
He then got sulky, and his people refused to sell food except
at extravagant prices. Knowing that we had nothing to eat,
they felt sure of starving us into compliance. But two of our
young men, having gone off at sunrise, shot a fine waterbuck,
and down came the provision market to the lowest figure;
they even became eager to sell, but our men were angry with
them for trying compulsion, and would not buy. Black greed
had outwitted itself, as happens often with white cupidity ; and
not only here did the traits of Africans remind us of Anglo-
Saxons elsewhere: the notoriously ready world-wide dispo-
sition to take an unfair advantage of a man’s necessities
shows that the same mean motives are pretty widely dif-
fused among all races. It may not be granted that the same
blood flows in all veins, or that all have descended from the
same stock ; but the traveller has no doubt that, practically,
the white rogue and black are men and brothers.
Pangola is the child or vassal of Mpende. Sandia and
Mpende are the only independent chiefs from Kebrabasa to
Zumbo, and belong to the tribe Manganja. The country
north of the mountains here in sight from the Zambesi is
called Senga, and its inhabitants Asenga, or Basenga, but all
appear to be of the same family as the rest of the Man-
ganja and Maravi. Formerly all the Manganja were
united under the government of their great Chief, Undi,
whose Empire extended from Lake Shirwa to the River
Loangwa; but after Undi’s death it fell to pieces, and a
large portion of it on the Zambesi was absorbed by their
powerful southern neighbours the Banyai. This has been
the inevitable fate of every African Empire from time imme-
Cuap. IX, AFRICAN INDUSTRY, i?
morial. A Chief of more than ordinary ability arises and,
subduing all his less powerful neighbours, founds a
kingdom, which he governs more or less wisely till he dies.
His successor not having the talents of the conqueror cannot
retain the dominion, and some of the abler under-chiefs set up
for themselves, and, in a few years, the remembrance only of
the Empire remains. This, which may be considered as the
normal state of African society, gives rise to frequent and
desolating wars, and the people long in vain for a power able
to make all dwell in peace. In this light, a European colony
would be considered by the natives as an inestimable boon to
intertropical Africa. Thousands of industrious natives would
gladly settle round it, and engage in that peaceful pursuit of
agriculture and trade of which they are so fond, and, undis-
tracted by wars or rumours of wars, might listen to the
purifying and ennobling truths of the Gospel of Jesus Christ.
The Manganja on the Zambesi, like their countrymen on
the Shire, are fond of agriculture; and, in addition to the
usual yarieties of food, cultivate tobacco and cotton in
quantities more than equal to their wants. To the
question, “ Would they work for Europeans?” an affirmative
answer may be given, if the Huropeans belong to the class
which can pay a reasonable price for labour, and not to that of
adventurers who want employment for themselves. All were
particularly well clothed from Sandia’s to Pangola’s; and it
was noticed that all the cloth was of native manufacture, the
product of their own looms. In Senga a great deal of iron
is obtained from the ore and manufactured very cleverly.
As is customary when a party of armed strangers visits the
village, Pangola took the precaution of sleeping in one of
the outlying hamlets. No one ever knows, or at any rate
will tell, where the Chief sleeps. He came not next morn-
200 DRUNKEN FERRY-MEN. CHAP, Ie
ing, so we went on our way; but in a few moments we saw
the rifle-loving Chief approaching with some armed men.
Before meeting us, he left the path and drew up his “ follow-
ing” under a tree, expecting us to halt, and give him a
chance of bothering us again; but, having already had
enough of that, we held right on: he seemed dumb-
foundered, and could hardly believe his own eyes. For a few
seconds he was speechless, but at last recovered so far as to
be able to say, “ You are passing Pangola. Do not you see
Pangola?” Mbia was just going by at the time with the
donkey, and, proud of every opportunity of airing his small
stock of English, shouted in reply, “All right! then get
on.” “Click, click, click.” This fellow, Pangola, would
have annoyed and harassed a trader until his unrea-
sonable demands were complied with.
On the 26th June we breakfasted at Zumbo, on the left bank
of the Loangwa, near the ruins of some ancient Portuguese
houses. The Loangwa was too deep to be forded, and there were
no canoes on our side. Seeing two small ones on the opposite
shore, near a few recently-erected huts of two half-castes from
Tette, we halted for the ferry-men to come over. From their
movements it was evident that they were in a state of
rollicking drunkenness. Having a waterproof cloak, which
could be inflated into a tiny boat, we sent Mantlanyane across
init. Three half-intoxicated slaves then brought us the shaky
canoes, which we lashed together and manned with our own
canoe-men. Five men were all that we could carry over at
atime; and after four trips had been made the slaves
began to clamour for drink; not receiving any, as we had
none to give, they grew more insolent, and declared
that not another man should cross that day. Sininyane was
remonstrating with them, when a loaded musket was pre-
Cuap. IX. RESULTS OF NO GOVERNMENT. 201
sented at him by one of the trio. In an instant the gun was
out of the rascal’s hands, a rattling shower of blows fell on
his back, and he took an involuntary header into the river. He
crawled up the bank asad and sober man, and all three at once
tumbled from the height of saucy swagger to a low depth of
slavish abjectness. The musket was found to have an enormous
charge, and might have blown our man to pieces, but for the
promptitude with which his companions administered justice
im a lawless land. We were all ferried safely across by
8 o’clock in the evening.
In illustration of what takes place where no govern-
ment, or law exists, the two half-castes, to whom these men
belonged, left Tette, with four hundred slaves, armed with
the old Sepoy Brown Bess, to hunt elephants and trade
i ivory. On our way up, we heard from natives of their
lawless deeds, and again, on our way down, from several,
who had been eyewitnesses of the principal crime, and all
reports substantially agreed. ‘The story isasad one. After
the traders reached Zumbo, one of them, called by the natives
Sequasha, entered into a plot with the disaffected headman,
Namakusuru, to kill his Chief, Mpangwe, in order that Nama-
kusuru might seize upon the chieftainship; and for the murder
of Mpangwe, the trader agreed to receive ten large tusks of
ivory. Sequasha, with a picked party of armed slaves, went
to visit Mpangwe, who received him kindly, and treated him
with all the honour and hospitality usually shown to distin-
suished strangers, and the women busied themselves in cook-
ing the best of their provisions for the repast to be set before
him. Of this, and also of the beer, the half-caste partool
heartily. Mpangwe was then asked by Sequasha to allow his
men to fire their guns in amusement. Innocent of any suspi-
cion of treachery, and anxious to hear the report of firearms,
202 SEQUASHA. Cuap. IX.
Mpangwe at once gave his consent; and the slaves rose and
poured a murderous volley into the merry group of unsuspect-
ing spectators, instantly killing the chief and twenty of his
people. The survivors fledin horror. The children and young
women were seized as slaves, and the village sacked. Sequasha
sent the message to Namakusuru: “I have killed the lion
that troubled you, come and let us talk over the matter.” He
came, and brought the ivory; “No,” said the half-caste,
“let us divide the land:” and he took the larger share for
himself, and compelled the would-be usurper to deliver up
his bracelets, in token of subjection on becoming the child
or vassal of Sequasha. These were sent in triumph to the
authorities at Tette. The Governor of Quillimane had told
us that he had received orders from Lisbon to take advantage
of our passing to re-establish Zumbo ; and, accordingly, these
traders had built a small stockade on the rich plain of the
right bank of Loangwa, a mile above the site of the ancient
mission church of Zumbo, as part of the royal policy. The
bloodshed was quite unnecessary, because, the land at Zumbo
having of old been purchased, the natives would have always
of their own accord acknowledged the right thus acquired ;
they pointed it out to Dr. Livingstone in 1856 that, though
they were cultivating it, it was not theirs, but white man’s
land. Sequasha and his mate had left their ivory in charge of
some of their slaves, who, in the absence of their masters,
were now haying a gay time of it, and getting drunk every
day with the produce of the sacked villages. The head slave
came and begged for the musket of the delinquent ferry-
man, which was returned. He thought his master did per-
fectly right to kill Mpangwe, when asked to do it for the fee
of ten tusks, and he even justified it thus: “If a man invites
you to eat, will you not partake ?”
Cuap. X. CHURCH IN RUINS. : 203
CHAPTER X.
Beautiful situation of Zumbo— Church in ruins— Why have the Catholic
Missions failed to perpetuate the Faith ?— Ma-mburuma— Anti-slavery
principles, a recommendation — Jujubes — Tsetse — Dr. Kirk dangerously
ill in the mountain fores:—Our men’s feats of hunting — Hyenas—
Honey-guides — Instinct of, how to be accounted for, self-interest or friend-
ship ?— A serpent— Mpangwe’s village deserted — Large game abundant
— Difference of flavour in— Sights seen in marching — “Smokes” from
grass-burnings — River Chongwe — Bazizulu and their superior cotton —
Escape from rhinoceros —The wild dog — Families flitting — Tombanyama
— Confluence of the Kafue.
WE remained a day by the ruins of Zumbo. The early
traders, guided probably by Jesuit missionaries, must have
been men of taste and sagacity. They selected for their
village the most charmingly picturesque site in the country,
and had reason to hope that it would soon be enriched by the
lucrative trade of the rivers Zambesi and Loanewa pouring
into it from north and west, and by the gold and ivory of the
Manica country on the south. The Portuguese of the present
day have certainly reason to be proud of the enterprise of their
ancestors. If ever in the Elysian fields the conversation of
these ancient and honourable men, who dared so much for
Christianity, turns on their African descendants, it will be
difficult for them to reciprocate the feeling. The chapel, near
which lies a broken church bell, commands a glorious view
of the two noble rivers,—the green fields—the undulating
forest—the pleasant hills, and the magnificent mountains in
the distance. It is anutter ruin now, and desolation broods
around. The wild bird, disturbed by the unwonted sound
204 MISSIONARY FAILURE. Car, X.
of approaching footsteps, rises with a harsh scream. Thorn-
vushes, marked with the ravages of white ants, rank grass
with prickly barbed seeds, and noxious weeds, overrun the
whole place. The foul hyena has defiled the sanctuary,
and the midnight-owl has perched on its crumbling walls, to
disgorge the undigested remnant of its prey. One can
scarcely look without feelings of sadness on the utter desola-
tion of a place where men have met to worship the Supreme
Beimg, or have united in uttering the magnificent words,
“Thou art the King of glory, O Christ!” and remember, that
the natives of this part know nothing of His religion, not even
His name; a strange superstition makes them shun this
sacred place, as men do the pestilence, and they never come
near it. Apart from the ruins, there is nothing to remind one
that a Christian power ever had traders here ; for the natives
of to-day are precisely what their fathers were, when the
Portuguese first rounded the Cape. Their language, unless
buried in the Vatican, is still unwritten. Not a single art,
save that of distilling spirits by means of a gun-barrel, has
ever been learnt from the strangers; and, if all the progeny
of the whites were at once to leave the country, their only
memorial would be the ruins of a few stone and mud-built
walls, and that blighting relic of the slave-trade, the belief
that man may sell his brother man; a belief which is not.
of native origin, for it is not found except in the track of
the Portuguese. |
Since the early Missionaries were not wanting in either
wisdom or enterprise, it would be intensely interesting to
know the exact cause of their failing to perpetuate their
Faith. Our observation of the operations of the systems,
whether of native or of European origin, which sanction
slavery, tends to prove that they only perpetuate barbarism.
CHap. X. MA-MBURUMA. 203
Raids like that of Sequasha,—also of Simoens, who carried his
foray up the river as far as Kariba,—and many others, have
exactly the same effect as the normal native policy already
mentioned: one tract of country is devastated after another,
and the slave-hunter attains great wealth and influence.
Pereira, the founder of Zumbo, gloried in being called “the
Terror.” Ifthe scourge is not fleeced by some needy Governor,
his wealth is usually scattered to the winds by the children
of mixed breed who succeed him. Can it be that the Mis-
sionaries of old, like many good men formerly among ourselves,
tolerated this system of slave-making, which inevitably leads
to warfare, and thus failed to obtain influence over the
natives by not introducing another policy than that which
had prevailed for ages before they came ?
We continued our journey on the 28th of June. Game
was extremely abundant, and there were many lions. Mbia
drove one off from his feast on a wild pig, and appropriated
what remained of the pork to his own use. Lions are
particularly fond of the flesh of wild pigs and zebras, and
contrive to kill a large number of these animals. In the
afternoon we arrived at the village of the female Chief,
Ma-mburuma, but she herself was now living on the oppo-
site side of the river. Some of her people called, and said
she had been frightened by seeing her son and other
children killed by Sequasha, and had fled to the other bank;
but when her heart was healed, she would return and live
in her own village, and among her own people. She con-
stantly inquired of the black traders, who came up the river,
if they had any news of the white man who passed with the
oxen. ‘He has gone down into the sea,” was their reply,
“but we belong to the same people.” “Oh, no; you need
not tell me that; he takes no slaves, but wishes peace : you
206 J UJUBE—TSETSE. Cuap. X.
are not of his tribe.” This anti-slavery character excites such
universal attention, that any Missionary, who winked at the
gigantic evils involved in the slave-trade, would certainly fail
to produce any good impression on the native mind.
We left the river here, and proceeded up the valley which
leads to the Mburuma or Mohango pass. The nights were
cold, and on the 30th of June the thermometer was as low
as 39° at sunrise. We passed through a village of twenty
large huts, which Sequasha had attacked on his return
from the murder of the Chief, Mpangwe. He caught the
women and children for slaves, and carried off all the food,
except a huge basket of bran, which the natives are wont to
save against a time of famine. His slaves had broken all the
water-pots and the millstones for grinding meal.
The buaze-trees and bamboos are now seen on the hills;
but the jujube or zisyphus, which has evidently been imtro-
duced from India, extends no further up the river. We
had been eating this fruit, which, having somewhat the
taste of apples, the Portuguese call Macaas, all the way from
Tette; and here they were larger than usual, though imme-
diately beyond they ceased to be found. No mango-tree either
is to be met with beyond this point, because the Portuguese
traders never established themselves anywhere beyond
Zumbo. ‘T'setse flies are more numerous and troublesome than
we have ever before found them. They accompany us on the
march, often buzzing round our heads like a swarm of bees.
They are very cunning, and when intending to bite, alight
so gently that their presence is not perceived till they thrust
in their lance-like proboscis. The bite is acute, but the pain
is over in a moment; it is followed by a little of the dis-
agreeable itching of the musquito’s bite. This fly invariably
kills all domestic animals except goats and donkeys; man and
CHap. X. ILLNESS OF DR. KIRK. 207
the wild animals escape. We ourselves were severely bitten
on this pass, and so were our donkeys, but neither suffered from
any after effects.
Water is scarce in the Mburuma pass, except during the
rainy season. We however halted beside some fine springs in
the bed of the now dry rivulet, Podebode, which is continued
down to the end of the pass, and yields water at intervals in
pools. Here we remained a couple of days in consequence
of the severe iilness of Dr. Kirk. He had several times been
attacked by fever; and observed that when we were on the
cool heights he was comfortable, but when we happened to
descend from a high to a lower altitude, he felt chilly, though
the temperature in the latter case was 25° higher than it was
above; he had been trying different medicines of reputed
efficacy with a view to ascertain whether other combinations
might not be superior to the preparation we generally used ;
in halting by this water, he suddenly became blind, and un-
able to stand from faintness. The men, with great alacrity,
prepared a grassy bed, on which we laid our companion,
with the sad forebodings which only those who have tended
the sick in a wild country can realize. We feared that
in experimenting he had overdrugged himself; but we gave
him a dose of our fever pills; on the third day he rode the one
of the two donkeys that would allow itself to be mounted,
and on the sixth he marched as well as any of us. This case
is mentioned in order to illustrate what we have often
observed, that moving the patient from place to place is most
conducive to the cure; and the more pluck a man has—the
less he gives in to the disease—the less likely he is to die.
Supplied with water by the pools in the Podebode, we again
joined the Zambesi at the confluence of the rivulet. When
passing through a dry district the native hunter knows where to
208 HUNTING THE BUFFALO. CHAP
expect water by the animals he sees. The presence of the
gemsbuck, duiker or diver, springbucks, or elephants, is no
proof that water is near ; for these animals roam over vast tracts
of country, and may be met scores of miles from it. Not so,
however, the zebra, pallah, buffalo, and rhinoceros ; their spoor
gives assurance that water is not far off, as they never stray
any distance from its neighbourhood. But when amidst
the solemn stillness of the woods, the singing of joyous
birds falls upon the ear, it is certain that water is close at
hand. While waiting here, under a great tamarind-tree, we
heard many new and pleasant songs from strange little birds,
with the love-notes of pigeons, in the trees overhanging these
living springs.
Our men in hunting came on an immense herd of buffa-
loes, quietly resting in the long dry grass, and began to
blaze away furiously at the astonished animals. In the
wild excitement of the hunt, which heretofore had been
conducted with spears, some forgot to load with ball, and,
firmg away vigorously with powder only, wondered for the
moment that the buffaloes did not fall. The slayer of the
young elephant, having buried his four bullets in as many
buffaloes, fired three charges of number 1 shot he had for
killing guinea-fowl. The quaint remarks and merriment
after these little adventures seemed to the listener like
the pleasant prattle of children. Mbia and Mantlanyane,
however, killed one buffalo each ; both the beasts were in prime
condition; the meat was like really excellent beef, with a
smack of venison. A troop of hungry, howling hyenas also
thought the savour tempting, as they hung round the camp
at night, anxious to partake of the feast. They are, fortu-
nately, arrant cowards, and never attack either men or beasts,
except they can catch them asleep, sick, or at some other
Cuap. X. THE HONEY-GUIDE. 209
disadvantage. With a bright fire at our feet their presence
excites no uneasiness. A piece of meat hung on a tree, high
enough to make him jump to reach it, and a short spear,
with its handle firmly planted in the ground beneath, are
used as a device to induce the hyena to commit suicide by
impalement.
The honey-guide is an extraordinary bird; how is it
that every member of its family has learned that all
men, white or black, are fond of honey? The instant the
little fellow gets a glimpse of a man, he hastens to greet him
with the hearty invitation to come, as Mbia translated it, to
a bees’ hive, and take some honey. He flies on in the
proper direction, perches on a tree, and looks back to see if
you are following; then on to another and another, until he
guides you to the spot. If you do not accept his first
invitation he follows you with pressing importunities, quite
as anxious to lure the stranger to the bees’ hive as other
birds are to draw him away from their own nests. Except while
on the march, our men were sure to accept the invitation,
and manifested the same by a peculiar responsive whistle,
meaning, as they said, “All right, go ahead; we are coming.”
The bird never deceived them, butalways guided them to a hive
of bees, though some had but little honey in store. Has this
peculiar habit of the honey-guide its origin, as the attachment
of dogs, in friendship for man, or in love for the sweet pickings
of the plunder left on the ground? Self-interest aiding in pre-
servation from danger seems to be the rule in most cases, as,
for instance, in the bird that guards the buffalo and rhinoceres.
The grass is often so tall and dense that one could go close up
to these animals quite unperceived ; but the guardian bird,
sitting on the beast, sees the approach of danger, flaps its wings
and screams, which causes its bulky charge to rush off from a
PB
210 ABUNDANCE OF GAME. CHar. X.
foe he has neither seen nor heard; for his reward the vigilant
little watcher has the pick of the parasites of his fat friend.
In other cases a chance of escape must be given even by the
animal itself to its prey; as in the rattle-snake, which, when
excited to strike, cannot avoid using his rattle, any more than
the cat can resist curling its tail when excited in the chase of
a mouse, or the cobra can refrain from inflating the loose skin
of the neck and extending it laterally, before striking its
poison fangs into its victim. There were many snakes
in parts of this pass; they basked in the warm sunshine, but
rustled off through the leaves as we approached. We ob-
served one morning a small one of a deadly poisonous species,
named Kakone, on a bush by the way-side, quietly resting
in a horizontal position, digesting a lizard for breakfast.
Though openly in view, its colours and curves so closely
resembled a small branch that some failed to see it, even
after being asked if they perceived anything on the bush.
Here also one of our number had a glance at another species,
rarely seen, and whose swift lightning-like motion has given
rise to the native proverb, that when a man sees this snake
he will forthwith become a rich man.
We slept near the ruined village of the murdered chief,
Mpangwe, a lovely spot, with the Zambesi in front, and exten-
sive gardens behind, backed by a semicircle of hills, receding up
to lofty mountains. Our path kept these mountains on our
right, and crossed several streamlets, which seemed to be
perennial, and among others the Selole, which apparently
flows past the prominent peak Chiarapela. These rivulets
have often human dwellings on their banks; but the land
can scarcely be said to be occupied. The number of all
sorts of game increases wonderfully every day. As a speci-
men of what may be met with where there are no human
Cuap. X. ANNOYED WITH TSETSE. 211
habitations, and where no firearms have been introduced,
we may mention what at times has actually been seen
by us. On the morning of July 3rd a herd of elephants
passed within fifty yards of our sleeping-place, going down
to the river along the dry bed of a rivulet. Starting
a few minutes before the main body, we come upon large
flocks of guinea-fowl, shoot what may be wanted for dinner,
or next morning’s breakfast, and leave them in the path
to be picked up by the cook and his mates behind. As
we proceed, francolins of three varieties run across the path,
and hundreds of turtle-doves rise, with great blatter of wing,
and fly off to the trees. Guinea-fowls, francolins, turtle-
doves, ducks, and geese are the game birds of this region.
At sunrise a herd of pallahs, standing like a flock of sheep,
allow the first man of our long Indian file to approach within
about fifty yards; but having meat, we let them trot off
leisurely and unmolested. Soon afterwards we come upon a
herd of waterbucks, which here are very much darker in
colour, and drier in flesh, than the same species near the sea.
They look at us and we at them; and we pass on to see a
herd of doe koodoos, with a magnificently horned buck or two,
hurrying off to the dry hill-sides. We have ceased shooting
antelopes, as our men have been so often gorged,with meat
that they have become fat and dainty. They say that they
do not want more venison, it is so dry and tasteless, and
ask why we do not give them shot to shoot the more savoury
guinea-fowl.
About eight o’clock the tsetse commence to buzz about
us, and bite our hands and necks sharply. Just as we
are thinking of breakfast, we meet some buffaloes grazing
by the path; but they make off in a heavy gallop at the
sight of man. We fire, and the foremost, badly wounded,
[ee
r
212 ZEBRAS— WILD PIGS. Car. X.
separates from the herd, and is seen to stop amongst the
trees; but, as it is a matter of great danger to follow
a wounded buffalo, we hold on our way. It is this
losing of wounded animals which makes firearms so an-
nihilating to these beasts of the field, and will in time
sweep them all away. The small Enfield bullet is worse
than the old round one for this. It often goes through
an animal without killing him, and he afterwards perishes,
when he is of no value to man. After breakfast we draw
near a pond of water, a couple of elephants stand on its
bank, and, at a respectful distance behind these monarchs
of the wilderness, is seen a herd of zebras, and another of
waterbucks. On getting our wind the royal beasts make off
at once; but the zebras remain till the foremost man is
within eighty yards of them, when old and young canter
gracefully away. ‘The zebra has a great deal of curiosity ;
and this is often fatal to him, for he has the habit of stopping
to look at the hunter. In this particular he is the exact oppo-
site of the diver antelope, which rushes off like the wind, and
never for a moment stops to look behind, after having once
seen or smelt danger. The finest zebra of the herd is
sometimes shot, our men having taken a sudden fancy to the
flesh, which all declare to be the “king of good meat.” On
the plains of short grass between us and the river many
antelopes of different species are calmly grazing, or
reposing. Wild pigs are common, and walk abroad
during the day; but are so shy as seldom to allow a close
approach. On taking alarm they erect their slender tails in
the air, and trot off swiftly in a straight line, keeping their
bodies as steady as a locomotive on a railroad. A mile
beyond the pool three cow buffaloes with their calves come
from the woods, and move out into the plain. wear in addition a skin cut like the
"tails of the coatee formerly worn by
our dragoons. The younger girls ©
wear the waist-belt exhibited in the
Waist-belt. woodcut, ornamented with shells, and
have the fringes only in front. Marauding parties of Batoka,
calling themselves Makololo, have for some time had a
wholesome dread of Sinamane’s “long spears.” Before
going to Tette our Batoka friend, Masakasa, was one of
a party that came to steal some of the young women; but
Sinamane, to their utter astonishment, attacked them so
furiously that the survivors barely escaped with their lives.
Masakasa had to flee so fast that he threw away his shield,
his spear, and his clothes, and returned home a wiser and a
sadder man.
CHap. XVI. SINAMANE’S PEOPLE. 317
CHAPTER XVI.
Sinamane — Canoe navigation — Moemba — Water-drawing stockades — Gene-
rosity of the Batoka— Purchase of a canoe — Ant-lions— Herd of Hippo-
potami — Cataract doctor of Kariba — Albinos, human and hippopotamic —
Meet Sequasha, not quite so black as painted — Native mode of salutation
— Kariyua — Gallant conduct of the Makololo — Breakfast interrupted by
Mambo Kazai— Dinner spoilt by pretended aid — Banyai— Rapids of Ke-
brabasa — Dr. Kirk in danger— Sad loss of MSS., &c.— Death of one of
our donkeys — Amiable squeamishness of Makololo— Dinner a la Panzo —
Reach Tette 23rd Nov. — ‘“‘ Jacks of all trades ’— Imposition practised on
the King of Portugal’s Colonial scheme.
SINAMANE’S people cultivate large quantities of tobacco,
which they manufacture into balls for the Makololo market.
Twenty balls, weighing about three-quarters of a pound each,
are sold for a hoe. The tobacco is planted on low moist
spots on the banks of the Zambesi; and was in flower at
the time we were there, in October. Sinamane’s people ap-
pear to have abundance of food, and are all in good condi-
tion. He could sell us only two of his canoes; but lent us
three more to carry us as far as Moemba’s, where he thought
others might be purchased. They were manned by his own
canoe-men, who were to bring them back. ‘The river is
about 250 yards wide, and flows serenely between high
banks towards the North-East. Below Sinamane’s the
banks are often worn down fifty feet, and composed of
shingle and gravel of igneous rocks, sometimes set in a
ferruginous matrix. The bottom is all gravel and shingle,
how formed we cannot imagine, unless in pot-holes in the
deep fissure above. The bottom above the Falls, save a
few rocks close by them, is generally sandy or of soft tufa.
Eyery damp spot is covered with maize, pumpkins, water-
318 SINAMANE’S CANOES. Cuap. XVI.
melons, tobacco, and hemp. There is a pretty numerous
Batoka population on both sides of the river. As we sailed
slowly down, the people saluted us from the banks, by
clapping their hands. A headman even hailed us, and
brought a generous present of corn and pumpkins.
Moemba owns a rich island, called Mosanga, a mile in
length, on which his village stands. He has the reputation of
being a brave warrior, and is certainly a great talker ; but he
gave us strangers something better than a stream of words.
We received a handsome present of corn, and the fattest goat
we had ever seen; it resembled mutton. His people were
as liberal as their Chief. They brought two large baskets of
corn, and a lot of tobacco, as a sort of general contribution to
the travellers. One of Sinamane’s canoe-men, after trying
to get his pay, deserted here, and went back before the stipu-
lated time, with the story, that the Englishmen had stolen
the canoes. Shortly after sunrise next morning, Sinamane
came into the village with fifty of his “long spears,” evi-
dently determined to retake his property by force; he saw
at a glance that his man had deceived him. Moemba rallied
him for coming on a wildgoose chase. “ Here are your
canoes left with me, your men have all been paid, and the
Englishmen are now asking me to sell my canoes.” Sina-
mane said little to us; only observing that he had been
deceived by his follower. A single remark of his Chief’s
caused the foolish fellow to leave suddenly, evidently much
frightened and crestfallen. Sinamane -had been very kind to
us, and, as he was looking on when we gave our present
to Moemba, we made him also an additional offering of
some beads, and parted good friends. Moemba, haying
heard that we had called the people of Sinamane together
to tell them about our Saviour’s mission to man, and to pray
with them, associated the idea of Sunday with the meeting,
Cuar. XVI. FAIR DEALING OF MOEMBA. 819
and, before anything of the sort was proposed, came and
asked that he and his people might be “sundayed” as well
as his neighbours; and be given a little seed wheat, and
fruit-tree seeds; with which request of course we very will-
ingly complied. The idea of praying direct to the Supreme
Being, though not quite new to all, seems to strike their
minds so forcibly that it will not be forgotten. Sinamane
said that he prayed to God, Morungo, and made drink-offer-
ings to him. Though he had heard of us, he had never seen
white men before.
When bargaining with Moemba for canoes, we were grati-
fied to observe, that he wished to deal fairly and honour-
ably with us. “Our price was large; but he had only two
spare canoes. One was good,—he would sell that; the other
he would not sell us, because it had a bad trick of capsizing,
and spilling whatever was inside it into the river; he would
lend us his own two large ones, until we could buy others
below.” The best canoes are made from a large species of
thorny acacia. These trees were now in seed; and some of
the natives boiled the pods in water, and mixed the decoc-
tion with their beer, to increase its intoxicating qualities.
In times of great hunger the beans too are eaten, though
very astringent. .
We touched at Makonde’s village to buy a canoe. They
were having a gay time, singing, dancing, and drinking their
beer extra strong. A large potful was at once brought to
us. The Chief spoke but little; his orator did the talking
and trading for him, and seemed anxious to show him how
cleverly he could do both. Many tiny stockades stand on
the edge of the river; they are built there to protect the
women from the crocodiles, while filling their waterpots.
This is in advance of the Portuguese; for, although many
women are annually carried off by crocodiles at Senna and
320 THE BATOKA’S GENEROSITY. Cuar. XVI.
Tette, so little are the lives of these poor drawers of water
valued by the masters, that they never think of erecting
even a simple fence for, their protection. Dr. Livingstone
tried to induce the padre of Senna to move in this matter,
offering to give twenty dollars himself, if a collection should
be made after mass; but the padre merely smiled, shrugged
his shoulders, and did nothing.
Beautiful crowned cranes, named from their note ‘ ma-
wang, were seen daily, and were beginning to pair. Large
flocks of spur-winged geese, or machikwe, were common.
This goose is said to lay her eggs in March. We saw also
pairs of Egyptian geese, as well as a few of the knob-nosed, or,
as they are called in India, combed geese. When the Egyptian
geese, as at the present time, have young, the goslings keep
so steadily in the wake of their mother, that they look as if
they were a part of her tail; and both parents, when on land,
simulate lameness quite as well as our plovers, to draw off
pursuers. The ostrich also adopts the lapwing fashion, but
no quadrupeds do: they show fight to defend their young
instead. In some places the steep banks were dotted with
the holes which lead into the nests of bee-eaters. These
birds came out in hundreds as we passed. When the red-
breasted species settle on the trees, they give them the
appearance of being covered with red foliage.
Our land party came up to us on the evening of the 11th,
a number of men kindly carrying their bundles for them.
They had received valuable presents of food on the way.
One had been given a goat, another fowls and maize.
They began to believe that these Batoka “have hearts,”
though at first, as those who inflict an injury usually are,
they were suspicious, and blamed them for hating the Mako-
lolo and killing every one they met. Marauding parties of
Makololo and subject Batoka had formerly made swoops on
Cuap. XVI. - WILD, HILLY COUNTRY. 321
these very villages. A few mornings since, Moloka appeared
in great grief and fear: his servant Ranyeu had disappeared
the day before, and he was sure that the Batoka had caught
and killed him. A few minutes after, this Ranyeu arrived,
with two men who had found him wandering after sunset,
had given him supper and lodging, and, carrying his load
for him, had brought him on to us.
On the morning of the 12th October we passed through a
wild, hilly country, with fine wooded scenery on both sides,
but thinly inhabited. The largest trees were usually thorny
acacias, of great size and beautiful forms. As we sailed
by several villages without touching, the people became
alarmed, and ran along the banks, spears in hand. We
employed one to go forward and tell Mpande of our coming.
This allayed their fears, and we went ashore, and took break-
fast near the large island with two villages on it, opposite
the mouth of the Zungwe, where we had left the Zambesi on
our way up. Mpande was sorry that he had no canoes of his
own to sell, but he would lend us two. He gave us cooked
pumpkins and a water-melon. His servant had lateral cur-
vature of the spine. We have often seen cases of humpback,
but this was the only case of this kind of curvature we had
met with. Mpande accompanied us himself in his own vessel,
till we had an opportunity of purchasing a fine large canoe
elsewhere. We paid what was considered a large price for it:
twelve strings of blue cut glass neck-beads, an equal number
of large blue ones of the size of marbles, and two yards of
grey calico. Had the beads been coarser, they would have
been more valued, because such were in fashion. Before
concluding the bargain the owner said “his bowels yearned
for his canoe, and we must give a little more to stop their
yearning.” his was irresistible. The trading party of
Sequasha, which we now met, had purchased ten large
Y
322 ANT-LIONS. Cuap, XVI.
new canoes for six strings of cheap coarse white beads
each, or their equivalent, four yards of calico, and had
bought for the merest trifle ivory enough to load them all.
They were driving a trade in slaves also, which was some-
thing new in this part of Africa, and likely soon to change
the character of the inhabitants. ‘These men had been living
in clover, and were uncommonly fat and plump. When sent
to trade, slaves wisely never stint themselves of beer or
anything else, which their master’s goods can buy.
The insects called ant-lions (Myrmecoleo), were very nu-
merous in sandy places under shady trees, even where but
few ants were to be seen. These patient creatures lie in
ambush, and have a great deal of extra labour at this season
of the year. The high winds fill up their pitfalls with drift-
ing sand, and no sooner haye they carefully shovelled it all
out, than it is again blown in, thus keeping them constantly
at work till the wind goes down.
The temperature of the Zambesi had increased 10° since
August, being now 80°. The air was as high as 96° after
sunset; and, the vicinity of the water being the coolest part,
we usually made our beds close by the river’s brink, though
there in danger of crocodiles. Africa differs from India in the
air always becoming cool and refreshing long before the sun
returns, and there can be no doubt that we can in this
country bear exposure to the sun, which would be fatal in
India. It is probably owing to the greater dryness of the
African atmosphere that sunstroke is so rarely met with. In
twenty-two years Dr. Livingstone never met or heard of a
single case, though the protective head-dresses of India are
rarely seen.
When the water is nearly at its lowest, we occasionally
meet with small rapids which are probably not in existence
during the rest of the year. Having slept opposite the rivulet
Cuap. XVI. HERD OF HIPPOPOTAMI.
99
23
sh)
Bume, which comes from the south, we passed the island of
Nakansalo, and went down the rapids of the same name on
the 17th, and came on the morning of the 19th to the more
serious ones of Nakabele, at the entrance to Kariba. The
Makololo guided the canoes admirably through the open-
ing in the dyke. When we entered the gorge we came on
upwards of thirty hippopotami: a bank near the entrance
stretches two-thirds across the narrowed river, and in the
still place behind it they were swimming about. Several
were in the channel, and our canoe-men were afraid to
venture down among them, because, as they affirm, there is
commonly an illnatured one in a herd, which takes a malig-
nant pleasure in upsetting canoes. Two or three boys on
the rocks opposite amused themselves by throwing stones
at the frightened animals, and hit several on the head. It
would have been no difficult matter to have shot the whole
herd. We fired a few shots to drive them off; the balls
often glance off the skull, and no more harm is done than
when a schoolboy gets a bloody nose; we killed one, which
floated away down the rapid current, followed by a number
of men on the bank. A native called to us from the left
bank, and said that a man on his side knew how to pray
to the Kariba gods, and advised us to hire him to pray for
our safety, while we were going down the rapids, or we should
certainly all be drowned. No one ever risked his life in
Kariba without first paying the river-doctor, or priest, for his
prayers. Our men asked if there was a cataract in front,
but he declined giving any information; they were not on
his side of the river ; if they would come over, then he might
be able to tell them. We crossed, but he went off to the
village. We then landed and walked over the hills to have a
look at Kariba before trusting our canoes in it. The current
was strong, and there was broken water in some places, but
WZ
324 DEAD HIPPOPOTAMUS, Cuap. XVI,
the channel was nearly straight, and had no cataract, so we
determined to risk it. Our men visited the village while
we were gone, and were treated to beer and tobacco. The
priest who knows how to pray to the god that rules the
rapids followed us with several of his friends, and they were
rather surprised to see us pass down in safety, without the
aid of his intercession, The natives who followed the dead
hippopotamus caught it a couple of miles below, and, hay-
ing made it fast to a rock, were sitting waiting for us on
the bank beside the dead animal. As there was a consider-
able current there, and the rocky banks were unfit for our
beds, we took the hippopotamus in tow, telling the villagers
to follow, and we would give them most of the meat. The
crocodiles tugged so hard at the carcass, that we were soon
obliged to cast it adrift, to float down in the current, to
avoid upsetting the canoe. We had to go on so far before
finding a suitable spot to spend the night in, that the natives
concluded we did not intend to share the meat with them,
and returned to the village. We slept two nights at the
place were the hippopotamus was cut up.* The crocodiles
had a busy time of it in the dark, tearing away at what was
left in the river, and thrashing the water furiously with their
powerful tails. The hills on both sides of Kariba are much
like those of Kebrabasa, the strata tilted and twisted in
every direction, with no level ground.
Although the hills confine the Zambesi within a narrow
channel for a number of miles, there are no rapids beyond
those near the entrance. The river is smooth and apparently
very deep. Only one single human being was seen in the
gorge, the country being too rough for culture. Some rocks
* The animal was a female, and | obtained higher up was 4 ft. 3 in,
fat; it was 10 ft. in length and 4 ft. | at withers; 9 ft. 7 in. from snout to
1 in. in height. A young bull | insertion of tail.
Cuar. XVI. HOSPITABLE OLD HEADMAN. 325
in the water, near the outlet of Kariba, at a distance look
like a fort; and such large masses dislocated, bent, and even
twisted to a remarkable degree, at once attest some tre-
mendous upheaying and convulsive action of nature, which
probably caused Kebrabasa, Kariba, and the Victoria Falls
to assume their present forms; it took place after the for-
mation of the coal, that mineral having then been tilted up.
We have probably nothing equal to it m the present quiet
operations of nature.
On emerging we pitched our camp by a small stream,
the Pendele, a few miles below the gorge. The Palabi
mountain stands on the western side of the lower end of
the Kariba strait; the range to which it belongs crosses the
river, and runs to the south-east. Chikumbula, a hospitable
old headman, under Nchomokela, the paramount Chief of a
large district, whom we did not see, brought us next morn-
ing a great basket of meal, and four fowls, with some beer,
and a cake of salt, ‘‘to make it taste good.” Chikumbula
said that the elephants plagued them, by eating up the
cotton-plants; but his people seem to be well off.
A few days before we came, they caught three buffaloes in
pitfalls in one night, and, unable to eat them all, left one
to rot. During the night the wind changed and blew from
the dead buffalo to our sleeping-place; and a hnngry lion,
not at all dainty in his food, stirred up the putrid mass, and
growled and gloated over his feast, to the disturbance of our
slumbers. Game of all kinds is in most extraordinary abun-
dance, especially from this point to below the Kafue, and so
it is on Moselekatse’s side, where there are no inhabitants.
The drought drives all the game to the river to drink.
An hour’s walk on the right bank, morning or evening, reveals
a country swarming with wild animals: vast herds of pallahs,
many waterbucks, koodoos, buffaloes, wild pigs, elands, zebras,
326 WHITE HIPPOPOTAMUS. Cuap. XVI.
and monkeys appear ; francolins, guinea-fowls, and myriads
of turtledoves attract the eye in the covers, with the fresh
spoor of elephants and rhinoceroses, which had been at the
river during the night. Every few miles we came upon a
school of hippopotami, asleep on some shallow sandbank ;
their bodies, nearly all out of the water, appeared like
masses of black rock in the river. When these animals
are hunted much, they become proportionably wary, but
here no hunter ever troubles them, and they repose in
security, always however taking the precaution of sleeping
just above the deep channel, into which they can plunge
when alarmed. When a shot is fired into a sleeping herd,
all start up on their feet, and stare with peculiar stolid looks
of hippopotamic surprise, and wait for another shot before
dashing into deep water. A few miles below Chikumbula’s
we saw a white hippopotamus ina herd. Our men had never
seen one like it before. It was of a pinkish white, exactly
like the colour of the Albino. It seemed to be the father of
a number of others, for there were many marked with large
light patches. The so-called white elephant, is just such a
pinkish Albino as this hippopotamus. A few miles above
Kariba, we observed that, in two small hamlets, many of the
inhabitants had a similar affection of the skin. The same
influence appeared to haye affected man and beast. A dark
coloured hippopotamus stood alone, as if expelled from
the herd, and bit the water, shaking his head from side to
side in a most frantic manner. This biting the water with
his huge jaws is the hippopotamus’ way of “slamming
the door.” When the female has twins, she is said to kill
one of them.
We touched at the beautiful tree-covered island of Kalabi,
opposite where Tuba-mokoro lectured the lion in our way up.
The ancestors of the people who now inhabit this island pos-
Cusp. XVI. SEQUASHA. 327
sessed cattle. The tsetse has taken possession of the country
since “the beeves were lifted.” No one knows where these in-
sects breed; at a certain season all disappear, and as suddenly
come back, no one knows whence. The natives are such
close observers of nature, that their ignorance in this case
surprised us. A solitary hippopotamus had selected the little
bay in which we landed, and where the women drew water,
for his dwelling-place. Pretty little lizards, with light blue
and red tails, run among the rocks, catching flies and other
insects. These harmless—though to new-comers repulsive—
creatures sometimes perform good service to man, by eating
great numbers of the destructive white ants.
At noon on the 24th October, we found Sequasha in a
village below the Kafue, with the main body of his people. He
said that 210 elephants had been killed during his trip;
many of his men being excellent hunters. The numbers
of animals we saw renders this possible. He reported that,
after reaching the Kafue, he went northwards into the country
of the Zulus, whose ancestors formerly migrated from the
south and set up a sort of Republican form of government.
Sequasha is the greatest Portuguese traveller we ever became
acquainted with, and he boasts that he is able to speak a
dozen different dialects; yet, unfortunately, he can give but
a very meagre account of the countries and people he has
seen, and his statements are not very much to be relied
on. But considering the influences among which he has
been reared, and the want of the means of education at
Tette, it is a wonder that he possesses the good traits that he
sometimes exhibits. Among his wares were several cheap
American clocks; a useless investment rather, for a part of
Africa where no one cares for the artificial measurement of
time. These clocks got him into trouble among the Banyai:
he set them all agoing in the presence of a Chief, who became
328 MODE OF SALUTATION. Cuar. XVI.
frightened at the strange sounds they made, and looked upon
them as so many witchcraft agencies at work to bring all
manner of evils upon himself and his people. Sequasha, it
was decided, had been guilty of a milando or crime, and he
had to pay a heavy fine of cloth and beads for his exhibition.
He alluded to our having heard that he had killed Mpangwe,
and he denied having actually done so; but in his absence his
name had got mixed up in the affair, m consequence of his
slaves, while drinking beer one night with Namakusuru, the
man who succeeded Mpangwe, saying that they would kill the
Chief for him. His partner had not thought of this when we
saw him on the way up, for he tried to excuse the murder,
by saying that now they had put the right man into the
Chieftainship.
From Tombanyama’s onwards the Zambesi is full of islands,
and many buffaloes had been attracted by the fresh young
erass and reeds. One was shot on the forenoon of the 27th.
Distant thunder was heard during the night, and, as usually
happens in this state of the atmosphere, the meat spoiled so
rapidly, that it was not fit to eat next morning. Hunger in
this case, and with no choice but want, made a bitter thing
sweet. The same rapid decomposition is also produced if
meat is hung on a papaw-tree for four or five hours; an hour
or two, however, makes it tender only.
Three of Ma-mburuma’s men brought us a present of meal
and fowls, as we rested on the 28th on an island near
Podebode. Their mode of salutation, intended to show good
manners and respectful etiquette, was to clap the thigh with
one hand while approaching with the present in the other;
and, on sitting down before us, to clap the hands together, then
to continue clapping on the thigh when they handed the
present to our men, and with both hands when they received
one in return, and also on their departure, This ceremonious
Cuap, XVI. THE KARIVUA RAPIDS. 329
procedure is gone through with graye composure, and mothers
may be observed enjoining on their children the proper
clapping of the hands, as good manners are taught among
ourselves.
After three hours’ sail, on the morning of the 29th, the
river was narrowed again by the mountains of Mburuma,
called Karivua, into one channel, and another rapid dimly
appeared. “It was formed by two currents guided by
rocks to the centre. In going down it, the men sent by
Sekeletu behaved very nobly. The canoes entered without
previous survey, and the huge jobbling waves of mid-current
began at once to fill them. With great presence of mind,
and without a moment’s hesitation, two men lightened each
by jumping overboard; they then ordered a Batoka man
to do the same, as “the white men must be saved.” “I can-
not swim,” said the Batoka. “Jump out, then, and hold on
to the canoe;” which he instantly did. Swimming along-
side, they guided the swamping canoes down the swift current
to the foot of the rapid, and then ran them ashore to bale
them out. A boat could have passed down safely, but our
canoes were not a foot above the water at the gunwales.
Thanks to the bravery of these poor fellows, nothing was
lost, although everything was well soaked. This rapid is
nearly opposite the west end of the Mburuma mountains or
Karivua. Another soon begins belowit. They are said to be
all smoothed over when the river rises. The canoes had to
be unloaded at this the worst rapid, and the goods carried
about a hundred yards. By taking the-time in which a piece
of stick floated past 100 feet, we found the current to be
running six knots, by far the greatest velocity noted in the
river. As the men were bringing the last canoe down close
to the shore, the stern swung round into the current, and all
except one man let go, rather than be dragged off. He
330 ARRIVE AT ZUMBO. Cuap. XVI.
clung to the bow, and was swept out into the middle of the
‘stream. Having held on when he ought to have let go, he
next put his life in jeopardy by letting go when he ought to
have held on; and was in a few seconds swallowed up by a
fearful whirlpool. His comrades launched out a canoe below,
and caught him as he rose the third time to the surface, and
saved him, though much exhausted and very cold.
The scenery of this pass reminded us of Kebrabasa, although
it is much inferior. A band of the same black shining glaze
runs along the rocks about two feet from the water’s edge.
There was not a blade of grass on some of the hills, it being
the end of the usual dry season succeeding a previous severe
drought; yet the hill-sides were dotted over with beautiful
green trees. A few antelopes were seen on the rugged slopes,
where some people too appeared lying down, taking a cup of
beer. The Kariyua narrows are about thirty miles in length.
They end at the mountain Roganora. Two rocks, twelve or
fifteen feet above the water at the time we were there, may
in flood be covered and dangerous. Our chief danger was the
wind, a very slight ripple beg sufficient to swamp canoes.
We arrived at Zumbo, at the mouth of the Loangwa,
on the Ist of November. The water being scarcely up to
the knee, our land party waded this river with ease. A
buffalo was shot on an island opposite Pangola’s, the ball
lodging in the spleen. It was found to have been wounded
in the same organ previously, for an iron bullet was im-
bedded in it, and the wound entirely healed. -
a
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aed
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