y

V / I

hJ

tVH-

/

1

/

NARRATIVE

OF A

JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

TO

THE COLUMBIA RIVER,

AND

A VISIT TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, CHILI, &c.

WITH

A SCIENTIFIC APPENDIX.

L

BY JOHN K. TOWNSEND,

Member of the Academy of NatuJ-al Sciences of Philadelphia.

PHILADELPHIA: HENRY PERKINS, 134 CHESTNUT STREET.

BOSTON : PERKINS & MARVIN. 1839.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by

John K. Townsend,

in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the Eastern District of

Pennsylvania.

MERRIHEW AND THOMPSON, PRINTERS,

No. 7 Carter's Alley.

ADVERTISEMENT,

The Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company was formed in 1834, by several individuals in New York and Boston. Capt. Wyeth, having an interest in the enterprise, collected a party of men to cross the continent to the Pacific, with the purpose chiefly of establishing trading posts beyond the Rocky Mountains and on the coast.

The idea of making one of Capt. Wyeth's party was suggested to the author by the eminent botanist, Mr. Nuttall, who had himself determined to join the expedition across the North American wilder- ness. Being fond of Natural History, particularly the science of Ornithology, the temptation to visit a country hitherto unexplored by naturalists was irresistible ; and the following pages, originally penned for the family-circle, and without the slightest thought of publication, will furnish some account of his travels.

PUBLIC LIBHAKY

ERRATA.

Page 9, sixth line of the Contents, for "sharon," read charon. Page 79, ninth line from the bottom, for " for which we have exchanged," read which we have exchanged fur.

Page 84, for " melhiglen," read methegUn.

Page 120, third line of the chapter, for " winnowing," read winnying. Page 248, third line from the bottom, for " hallowed," read hallooed. Page 286, third line from the bottom, in note, for " dulcits," read dulcis.

CONTENTS

Chapter I. Arrival at St. Louis — Preparations for the journey — Saque In- dians— Their appearance, dress, and manners — Squaws — Commencement of a pedestrian tour — Sandhill cranes — Prairie settlers — Their hospitality — Wild pigeons, golden plovers and prairie hens — Mr. P. and his daughters — An abundant repast — Simplicity of the prairie maidens — A deer and turkey hunt — Loutre Lick hotel — A colored charon — Comfortable quarters — Young men of the west — Reflections on leaving home — Loquacity of the inhabi- tants— Gray squirrels — Boonville — Parroquets — Embarkation in a steam- boat— Large catfish — Accident on board the boat — Arrival at Independence — Description of the town — Encampment of the Rocky Mountain company — Character of the men — Preparation for departure — Requisites of a leader — Backwoods familiarity — Milton Sublette and his band — Rev. Jason Lee, the missionary — A letter from home — Mormonites — Military discipline and its consequences, 9

Chapter. II. Departure of the caravan — A storm on the prairie — Arrange- ment of the camp — Kanzas Indians — Kanzas river — Indian lodges — Passage of the river — Buffalo canoes — Kanzas chief — Upper Kaw village — their wig- wams— Catfish and ravens — Return of Mr. Sublette — Pawnee trace — Deser- tion of three men — Difficulties occasioned by losing the trail — Intelligence of Mr. Sublette's party — Escape of the band of horses — Visit of three Otto In- dians— Anectlote of Richardson, the chief hunter — his appearance and cha- racter— White wolves and antelopes — Buffalo bones — Sublette's deserted camps — Lurking wolves, ■ .27

Chapter III. Arrival at the Platte river — Wolves and antelopes — Anxiety of the men to sec bufl'alo — Visit of two spies from the Grand Pawnees — -Forced march — A herd of buffalo — Elk — Singular conduct of the horses — Killing a buffalo — Indian mode of procuring buffalo — Great herd — Adventure with an Indian in the tent — Indian feat with bow and arrow — Notice of the Paw- nee tribes — Disappearance of the buffalo from the plains of the Platte — A hunting adventure — Killing a buffalo — Butchering of a bull — Shameful de- struction of the game — Hunters' mode of quenching thirst, . . . .42

Chapter IV. Change in the face of the country — Unpleasant visitation — N. fork of the Platte — A day's journey over the hills — Poor pasture — Marmots — Rattlesnake and gopher — Naturalist's success and sacrifices — A sand storm — Wild horses — Killing of a doe antelope — Bluffs — The Chimney — " Zip Koon," the young antelope — Birds — Feelings and cogitations of a naturalist — Laramie's fork — Departure of two " free trappers" on a summer " hunt" — Black hills — Red butes — Sweet-water river, and Rock Independence — Avo- cets — Wind river mountains — Rocky Mountain sheep — Adventure with a grizzly bear — Rattlesnakes — Toilsome march, and arrival at Sandy river — Suffering of the horses — Anticipated delights of the rendezvous, . . 57

Chapter V. Arrival at the Colorado — The author in difficulty — Loss of a journal, and advice to travelling tyros — The rendezvous — Motley groups in- festing it — Rum drinking, swearing, and other accomplishments in vogue — Description of the camp — Trout — Abundance of game — Cock of the plains —

VI CONTENTS.

Leave the rendezvous — An accession to the band — A renegado Blackfoot chief— Captain Stewart and Mr. Ashvvorth — Muddy creek — More carous- ing— Abundance of trout — Bear river — A hard day's march — Volcanic coun- try— White-clay pits and " Beer spring" — Rare birds and common birds — Mr. Thomas McKay — Captain Bonneville's party — Captains Stewart and Wyetii's visit to the lodge of the "bald chief" — Blackfoot river — Adventure with a grizzly bear — Death of " Zip Koon" — Young grizzly bears and buf- falo calves — A Blackfoot Indian — Dangerous experiment of McKay — the three " Tetons" — Large trout — Shoshone river — Site of " Fort Hall" — Pre- parations for a buflalo hunt, 72

Chapteh VL Departure of the hunting camp — A false alarm— Blackfeet In- dians— Requisites of a mountain-man — Good fare, and good appetites — An experiment — Grizzly bears — Ncz Perce Indian — Adventure with a grizzly bear — Hunters' anecdotes — Homeward l)ound — Arrival at " Fort Hall" — A salute — Emaciation from lowdiet — Mr. McKay's company — Buffalo lodges-- Effects of judicious training — Indian worship — A " Camp Meeting" — Mr. Jason Lee, a favorite — A fatal accident and a burial, 92

CiiAPTEU VII. Departure of McKay's party, Captain Stewart, and the mis- sionaries— Debauch at the fort — Departure of the company — Poor provision — Blackfeet hunting ground — Sufferings from thirst — Goddin's creek — An- toine (toddin, the trapper — Scarcity of game — A buffalo — Rugged moun- tains— More game — Unusual economy —Habits of the white wolf — " Thorn- burg's pass" — Difficult traveiUng — The captain in jeopardy among the snow — A countermarch — Deserted Banneck camp — Toilsome and dangerous passage of the mountain — Mallade river — Beaver dams, and beaver — A party of Snake Indians — Another Banneck camp — " Kamas prairie" — Indian mode of preparing the kamas — Racine blanc, or biscuit root — Loss of horses by fatigue — Boisee or Big-wood river — Salmon — Choke-cherries, &c. 110

Chapter VIIL A substitute for game, and a luxurious breakfast — Expecta- tions of a repast, and a disappointment — Visit of a Snake chief — his abhor- rence of horse meat — A band of Snake Indians — their chief — Trade with Indians for salmon — Mr. Ashworth's adventure — An Indian horse-thief — Visit to the Snake camp — A Banneck camp — Supercilious conduct of the Indians — Snake river — Equipment of a trapping party — Indian mode of catching salmon — Loss of a favorite horse — Powder river — Cut rocks — Grand Ronde — Captain Bonneville — Kayouse and Nez Perce Indians — An Indian beauty — Blue mountains— A feline visit, 129

Chapter IX. Passage of the Blue mountains — Sufferings from thirst — Utalla river — .\ transformation — A novel meal — Columbia river and Fort Walla-walla — A dinner with the missionaries — Anecdote of Mr. Lee — Brief notice of the Fort — Departure of the missionaries — Notice of the Wal- la-walla Indians — Departure for Fort \'^ancouver — Wild ducks — Indian graves — Visits from Indians — Ophthalmia, a prevalent disease — A company of Chinook Indian.s — The Dalles — The party joined by Captain Wyeth — Embarkation in canoes — A heavy gale — Dangerous navigation — Pusillani- mous conduct of an Indian helmsman — A zealous botanist — Departure of Captain Wyeth with five men — Cascades — A portage — Meeting with the missionaries — Loss of a canoe — A toilsome duty — Arrival at Fort Vancou- ver— Dr. John McLoughhn, the chief factor — Domiciliation of the travel- lers at Fort Vancouver, 1 50

Chapter X. Fort Vancouver— .Agricultural and other improvements— Van- couver "camp"— Expedition to the Wallammot— The falls— A village of

CONTENTS. VU

Kiikatat Indians — Manner of flattening the head — A Flathead infant — - Brig " May Dacre" — Preparations for a settlement — Success of the natural- ists— Chinook Indians — their appearance and costume — Ague and fever — Desertion of the Sandwich Islanders — Embarkation for a trip to the Islands — George, the Indian pilot — Mount Coffin — A visit to the tombs— Superstition — Visit to an Indian house — Fort George— Site of Astoria — A blind Indian boy — Cruel and unfeeling conduct of the savages — their moral character — Baker's Bay— Cape Disappointment — Dangerous bar at the entrance of the river — The sea beach — Visit of Mr. Ogden — Passage across the bar — Sea birds — Landsmen at sea — A sperm, whale — Albatrosses, &c. — Tropic birds — A " school" of whales — Dolphins — Make the Sandwich Islands — Oahu —A rhapsody, 170

Chapter XI. Honoruru — Canoes — Amphibious habits —Capt. Charlton, H.B. M. consul — Mr. Jones, the American consul — reception by him — Description of the town, and of the natives — Party-colored hair of the women — The pa- goda— A visit from Kev. Hiram Bingham, the missionary — Opinions regard- ing the missionary fraternity — First view of the king, Kauikeaouli — his train — Seamen's chapel — A visit to the native church — Kinau and Keku- anoa — Orderly conduct of the natives during worship — Introduction to the king — His fondness for the chase, and athletic exercises — Native food — Man- ner of eating — The runii-rumi — its efficacy — A Lu-au party — The valley of Nuano — A visit to the Pari — The last battle of Tamehameha — A feast — Manner of cooking — A party of native ladies — An adventure, . . 191

Chapter XII. Visit to the island of Kauai — A royal call — Rev. P. J. Gulick, — Description of the island — A present from Kauikeaouli — Royal mode of obtaining supplies — Birds — Native method of catching them — The travellers wind-bound — Shell hunting — Habits of the natives— Beach food, and mode of eating it — Visit of the king, and governor Kekeoeva — Charac- teristics of the latter — Anxiety of the king to return home — Arrival of his followers — A metamorphosis — A royal supper — Evening service— Royal guard — A sail in sight — Joy of the king— His letter — Return of the Avon — Departure from Kauai, and arrival at Oahu — A pic-nic party at Pearl river — Calabash dance by the natives — Departure for Columbia river — A primitive passage to the shore — A storm at sea— A flight of shore birds — Land ahead — Arrival at the Columbia, . . 205

Chapter XIII. Passage up the Columbia— Birds — A trip to the Wallammet —

Methodist missionaries — their prospects — Fort William— Band-tail pigeons

Wretched condition of the Indians at the falls — A Kallapooyah village In- dian cemetery — Superstitions — Treatment of diseases — Method of steaming —

" Making medicine" — Indian sorcerers — Death of Thornburg — An inquest

Verdict of the jury — Inordinate appetite for ardent spirits — Eight men drowned— Murder of two trappers by the Bannsck Indians— Arrival of Cap- tain Thing — His meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians — Mas- sacre— A narrow escape, 218

Chapter XIV. Indians of the Columbia — Departure of Mr. Nuttall and Dr. Gairdner — Arrival of the Rev. Samuel Parker — his object — Departure of .he American brig — Swans — Indian mode of taking them — A large wolf — A night adventure — A discovery, and restoration of stolen property — Fraternal tenderness of an Indian — Indian vengeance — Death of Waskema, the Indian girl— "Busy-body ," the little chief— A village of Kowalitsk Indians— Cere- mony of" making medicine"— Exposure of an impostor — Success of legiti- mate medicines — Departure from Fort Vancouver for a visit to the interior — Arrival of a stranger — "Cape Horn" — Tilki, the Indian dhief—Indian vil-

viii CONTENTS.

lages— Arrival at Fort Walla-walla— Sharp-tailed grouse— Commencement

of a journey to the Blue mountains, 231

Chaptek XV. A village ofKayouse Indians— Appearance and dresses of the women— family worship— Visit to the Blue mountains— Dusky grouse— Re- turn to Walla-walla— Arrival of Mr. McLeod, and the missionaries— Letters from home— Death of Antoine Goddin— A renegado white man— Assault by the Walla-walla Indians — Passage down the Columbia— Rapids — A dog for supper— Prairies on fire— Fishing Indians— Their romantic appearance — Salmon huts—The shoots — Dangerous navigation— Death of Tilki— Seals- Indian stoicism and contempt of pain— Skookoom, the strong chief— his death— Maiming, an evidence of grief— Arrival at Fort Vancouver — A visit to Fort George— Indian cemeteries — Lewis and Clarke's house — A medal — Visit to Chinook — Hospitality of the Indians— Chinamus' home — The idol — Canine inmates, • 245

Chapteii XVI. Northern excursion — Salmon — Indian mode of catching them — Flathead children — A storm on the bay — Pintail ducks — Simple mode of killing salmon — Return to Chinook — Indian garrulity — Return to Fort George — Preparations for a second trip to the Sandwich Islands — De- tention within the cape — The tropics, and tropic birds — Make the island of Maui — Arrival at Oahu — Accession to the society — A visit to the king — Illness of the princess, Harieta Nahienaena — Abrupt exit of the king — A ride to Waititi — Cocoanut grove — Native mode of climbing — Death of the princess — grief of her people — barbarous ceremonies — Residence in the valley of Nuano — A visit to the palace — Kahiles — Coffin of the princess, and inscrip- tion— Ap[)urtenances — Ceremony of carrying the body to the church — Des- cription of the pageant — Dress of the king — Conclusion of the ceremony, 259

Chapter XVII. Embarkation for a tour of the islands — Lahaina — Forts — La- hainaluna — Missionaries of Maui — High school — Karakakua bay — Kairua — Cook's rock — Reverence of the natives for his memory — Cook's monument — Kawaihae — Colossal mountains — Mrs. Young — Heiau, or native temple — Human sacrifices— Morai — Heathenish rites — A cargo of cattle — Unsavory practice of the native women — Departure from Oahu — A sail by moonlight — Dean's island — A " complaisant" — Arrival at Tahiti — Native pilot — Papeete hay — Appearance of the shore — Orange groves, &c. — A young native song- ster— Visit to the queen — Native service — The chapel — A bedridden Tahai- tian — Jungle fowls — Leave the harbor — Dangerous navigation — A narrow escape — A shipwreck, 275

Chapteii XVIII. Island of Eimeo — Juan Fernandez— Make the coast of Chili — Town of Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition — Kindness of the fo- reign residents, &c.— Preparation by the government for an expedition against Peru— Foreign adventurers— Disaffection of Vidaurre and other officers in the Chilian army— Murder of Signor Portales by the rebels — Pre- paration for invading the town of Valparaiso— A battle— defeat of the insur- gents—Capture and imprisonment of Vidaurre and seven officers— Florine, the murderer— Sentence of the court martial— A military execution— Ap- pearance of the bodies after death— Sail for the United States— Cape Horn— Pernambuco— Cape Henlopen— A gale— Arrival at Philadelphia, . 295

Appendix, • ojj

NARRATIVE

OF A

JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, &c.

CHAPTER I,

Airival at St. Louis— Preparations for the journey — Saqiie Indians Their

appearance, dress, and manners— Squaws — Commencement of a pedestrian tour — Sandhill cranes — Prairie settlers — Their hospitality — Wild pigeons, golden plovers and prairie hens — Mr. P. and his daughters — An abundant

repast — Simplicity of the prairie maidens — A deer and turkey hunt Loutre

Lick hotel — Untoelcome bed-fellows — Jl colored sharon — Comfortable quar- ters— Young men of the west — Reflections on leaving hmne — Loquacity of the inhabitants — Gray squirrels — Boonville — Parroquets — Embarkation in a steamboat — Large catfish — Accident on board the boat — Arrival at Indepen- dence— Description of the town — Procure a supply of horses — Encampment of the Rocky JMonntain company — Character of the men — Preparation for departure — Requisites of a leader — Backwoods familiarity — JMilton Sublette andhis band — Rev. .Tason Lee, the missionary — A letter from home — JMormon- ites — JMilitary discipline and its consequences.

On the evening of the 24th of March, 1834, Mr. NuxxALLand myself arrived at St. Louis, in the steamboat Boston, from Pitts- burg.

On landing, we had the satisfaction to learn that Captain Wyeth was already there, and on the afternoon of the next day we called upon him, and consulted him in reference to the outfit which it would be necessary to purchase for the journey. He accompanied us to a store in the town, and selected a number of articles for us, among which were several pairs of leathern

10 JSARKATIVE OF A JOUKNEY

pantaloons, enormous overcoats, made of green blankets, and white wool hats, with round crowns, fitting tightly to the head, brims five inches wide, and almost hard enough to resist a rifle ball.

The day following we saw about one hundred Indians of the Saquc tribe, who had left their native forests for the purpose of treat in"- for the sale of some land at the Jefferson barracks. They were dressed and decorated in the true primitive style; their heads shaved closely, and painted with alternate stripes of fiery red and deep black, leaving only the long scalping tuft, in which was interwoven a quantity of elk hair and eagle's fea- thers. Each man was furnished with a good blanket, and some had an under dress of calico, but the greater number were en- tirely naked to the waist. The faces and bodies of the men were, almost without an exception, fantastically painted, the pre- dominant color being deep red, with occasionally a few stripes of dull clay white around the eyes and mouth. I observed one whose body was smeared with light colored clay, interspersed with black streaks. They were unarmed, with the exception of tomahawks and knives. The chief of the band, (who is said to be Black Hawk's father-in-law,) was a large dignified looking man, of perhaps fifty-five years of age, distinguished from the rest, by his richer habiliments, a more profuse display of trinkets in his cars, (which were cut and gashed in a frightful manner to receive them,) and above all, by a huge necklace made of the claws of the grizzly bear. The squaws, of whom there were about twenty, were dressed very much like the men, and at a little distance could scarcely be distinguished from them. Among them was an old, superannuated crone, who, soon after her arrival, had been presented with a broken umbrella. The only use that she made of it was to wrench the plated ends from the whale- bones, string them on a piece of wire, take her knife from her belt, with which she deliberately cut a slit of an inch in leno-th

I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 11

along the uppei' rim of her ear, and insert them in it. I saw her soon after this operation had been performed ; her cheeks were covered with blood, and she was standing with a vast deal of assumed dignity among her tawny sisters, who evidently envied her the possession of the worthless baubles.

2Sth. — Mr. N. and myself propose starting to-morrow on foot towards the upper settlements, a distance of about three hundred miles. We intend to pursue our journey leisurely, as we have plenty of time before us, and if we become tired, we can enter the stage which will probably overtake us.

29i/i. — This morning our Indians returned from the barracks, where I understand they transacted their business satisfactorily. I went on board the boat again to see them. I feel very much interested in them, as they are the first Indians I have ever seen who appear to be in a state of uncultivated nature, and who retain the savage garb and manners of their people. They had en- gaged the entire covered deck for their especial use, and were lolling about in groups, wrapped in their blankets. Some were occupied in conversation, others seemed more contemplative, and appeared to be thinking deeply, probably of the business which brought them amongst us. Here and there two might be seen playing a Spanish game with cards, and some were busily em- ployed in rendering themselves more hideous with paint. To perform this operation, the dry paint is folded in a thin muslin or gauze cloth, tied tightly and beaten against the face, and a small looking-glass is held in the other hand to direct them where to apply it. Two middle-aged squaws were frying beef, which they distributed around to the company in wooden bowls, and several half loaves of bread were circulating rapidly amongst them, by being tossed from one to another, each taking a huge bite of it. There were among the company, several younger fe- males, but they were all so hard favored that I could not feel much sympathy with them, and was therefore not anxious to cul-

12 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

tivate tlicir acquaintance. There was another circumstance, too, that was not a very attractive one ; I allude to the custom so universal amongst Indians, of seeking for vermin in each others' heads, and then eating them. The fair damsels were engaged in this way during most of the time that I remained on board, only suspending their delectable occupation to take their bites of bread as it passed them in rotation. The effect upon my person was what an Irishman would call the attraction of repulsion, as I found myself almost unconsciously edging away until I halted at a most respectable distance from the scene of slaughter.

At noon, Mr. N. and myself started on our pedestrian tour. Captain Wyeth offering to accompany us a few miles on the way. I was glad to get clear of St. Louis, as I felt uncomfortable in many respects while there, and the bustle and restraint of a town was any thing but agreeable to me. We proceeded over a road generally good, a low dry prairie, mostly heavily timbered, the soil underlaid with horizontal strata of limestone, abounding in organic remains, shells, coralines, &c., and arrived in the evening at Florisant, where we spent the night. The next day Captain Wyeth lefl us for St. Louis, and my companion and myself pro- ceeded on our route. We observed great numbers of the brown, or sandhill crane, (Grus canadensis,) flying over us ; some flocks were so high as to be entirely beyond the reach of vision, while their harsh, grating voices were very distinctly heard. We saw several flocks of the same cranes while ascending the Mississippi, several days since. At about noon, we crossed the river on a boat worked by horses, and stopped at a little town called St. Charles.

We find it necessary, both for our comfort and convenience, to travel very slowly, as our feet are already becoming tender, and that wc may have an opportunity of observing the country, and collecting interesting specimens. Unfortunately for the inirsuits of my companion, tho plants (of which he finds a

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIXS, ETC. 13

number that arc rare and curious) arc not yet in flower, and therefore of little use to him. The birds are in considerable numbers, among the principal of which is the large pileated woodpecker, (Picus pileatus.)

Mr. N. and myself are both in high spirits. We travel slowly, and without much fatigue, and when we arrive at a house, stop and rest, take a drink of milk, and chat with those we see. We have been uniformly well treated ; the living is good, and very cheap, and at any house at which we stop the inhabitants are sure to welcome us to their hospitality and good cheer. They live comfortably, and without much labor ; possess a fruitful and easily tilled soil, for which they pay the trifling sum of one dollar and a quarter per acre ; they raise an abundance of good In- dian corn, potatoes, and other vegetables ; have excellent beef and pork, and, in short, every thing necessary for good, whole- some living.

31s<. — The road to-day was muddy and slippery, rendered so by a heavy rain which fell last night. This morning, we observed large flocks of wild pigeons passing over, and on the bare prairies were thousands of golden plovers ; the ground was often literally covered with them for acres. I killed a considerable number. They were very fat, and we made an excellent meal of them in the evening. The prairie hen, or pinnated grouse, is also very numerous, but in these situations is shy, and difficult to be procured.

Towards evening we were overtaken by a bluff, jolly looking man, on horseback, who, as is usual, stopped, and entered into conversation with us. I saw immediately that he was superior to those we had been accustomed to meet. He did not ply us with questions so eagerly as most, and when he heard that we were naturalists, and were travelling in that capacity, he seemed to take considerable interest in us. He invited us to stop at his house, which was only a mile beyond, and as night was almost

14 NARRATIVE OF A JOrRXEY

upon us, we accepted the invitation with cheerfulness. Upon arriving at his mansion, our good host threw wide his hospitable doors, and then with a formal, and rather ultra-dignified polite- ness, making us a low bow, said, " Gentlemen, my name is P., and I am very happy of your company." We seated ourselves in a large, and well-furnished, parlor. Mr. P. excused himself for a few minutes, and soon returned, bringing in three fine looking girls, whom he introduced as his daughters. I took a particular fancy to one of them, from a strong resemblance which she bore to one of my female friends at home. These girls were certainly very superior to most that I had seen in Missouri, although somewhat touched with the awkward bash- fulness and prudery which generally characterizes the prairie maidens. They had lost their mother when young, and having no companions out of the domestic circle, and consequently no opportunity of aping the manners of the world, were perfect chil- dren of nature. Their father, however, had given them a good, plain education, and they had made some proficiency in needle work, as was evinced by numerous neatly worked samplers hanging in wooden frames around the room. Anon, supper was brought in. It consisted of pork chops, ham, eggs, Indian bread and butter, tea, coffee, milk, potatoes, preserved ginger, and though last, certainly not least in value, an enormous tin dish of plovers, (the contents of my game-bag,) fricaseed. Here was certainly a most abundant repast, and we did ample justice to it.

I endeavored to do the agreeable to the fair ones in the eve- ning, and Mr. N. was monopolized by the father, who took a great interest in plants, and was evidently much gratified by the information my companion gave him on the subject.

The next morning when we rose, it was raining, and much had evidently fallen during the night, making the roads wet and muddy, and therefore uni)leasant for pedestrians. I confess

I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 15

I was not sorry for this, for I felt myself very comfortably situated, and had no wish to take to the road. Mr. P. urged the propriety of our stopping at least another day, and the motion being seconded by his fair daughter, (my favorite,) it was irresistible.

On the following morning the sun was shining brightly, the air was fresh and elastic, and the roads tolerably dry, so that there was no longer any excuse for tarrying, and we pi'epared for our departure. Our good host, grasping our hands, said that he had been much pleased with our visit, and hoped to see us again, and when I bid good bye to the pretty Miss P., I told her that if I ever visited Missouri again, I would go many miles out of my way to see her and her sisters. Her reply was unsophisticated enough. " Do come again, and come in May or June, for then there are plenty of prairie hens, and you can shoot as many as you want, and you must stay a long while with us, and we'll have nice times; good bye; I'm so sorry you're going."

April Ath. — I rose this morning at daybreak, and left Mr. N. dreaming of weeds, in a little house at which we stopped last night, and in company with a long, lanky boy, (a son of the poor widow, our hostess,) set to moulding bullets in an old iron spoon, and preparing for deer hunting. The boy shouldered a rusty rifle, that looked almost antediluvian, and off" we plodded to a thicket, two miles from the house. We soon saw about a dozen fine deer, and the boy, clapping his old fire-lock to his shoulder, brought down a beautiful doe at the distance of a full hundred yards. Away sprang the rest of the herd, and I crept round the thicket to meet them. They soon came up, and I fired my piece at a large buck, and wounded the poor creature in the leg ; he went limping away, unable to overtake his com- panions; I felt very sorry, but consoled myself with the reflection that he would soon get well again.

16 NAKKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

We then gave up the pursuit, and turned our attention to the turkies, wliicli were rather numerous in the thicket. They were shy, as usual, and, when started from their lurking places, ran away like deer, and hid themselves in the underwood. Occasionally, however, they would perch on the high limbs of the trees, and then we had some shots at them. In the course of an hour we killed four, and returned to the house, where, as I expected, Mr. N. was in a fever at my absence, and after a late, and very good breakfast, proceeded on our journey.

We find in this part of the country less timber in the same space than we have yet seen, and when a small belt appears, it is a great relief, as the monotony of a bare prairie becomes tiresome.

Towards evening we arrived at Loutre Lick. Here there is a place called a Hotel. A Hotel, forsooth ! a pig-stye would be a more appropriate name. Every thing about it was most exceedingly filthy and disagreeable, but no better lodging was to be had, for it might not be proper to apply for accommodation at a private house in the immediate vicinity of a public one. They gave us a wretched supper, not half so good as we had been accustomed to, and we were fain to spend the evening in a comfortless, unfurnished, nasty bar-room, that smelt intolerably of rum and whiskey, to listen to the profane conversation of three or four uncouth individuals, (among whom were the host and his brother,) and to hear long and disagreeably minute discussions upon horse-racing, gambling, and other vices equally unpleasant to us.

The host's brother had been to the Rocky Mountains, and soon learning our destination, gave us much unsought for advice re- garding our method of journeying ; painted in strong colors the many dangers and difficulties which we must encounter, and concluded by advising us to give up the expedition. My fast ebbing patience was completely exhausted. I told him that

ACROSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 17

nothing that he could say would discourage us, — that we went to that house in order to seek repose, and it was unfair to intrude conversation upon us unasked. The ruffian made some grum- bling reply, and left us in quiet and undisturbed possession of our bench. We had a miserable time that night. The only spare bed in the house was so intolerably filthy that we dared not undress, and we had hardly closed our eyes before we were assailed by swarms of a vile insect, (the very name of which is offensive,) whose effluvia we had plainly perceived immediately as we entered the room. It is almost needless to say, that very early on the following morning, after paying our reckoning, and refusing the landlord's polite invitation to " liquorize,^^ we marched from the house, shook the dust from our feet, and went elsewhere to seek a breakfast.

Soon after leaving, we came to a deep and wide creek, and strained our lungs for half an hour in vain endeavors to waken a negro boy who lived in a hut on the opposite bank, and who, we were told, would ferry us over. He came out of his den at last, half naked and rubbing his eyes to see who had disturbed his slumbers so early in the marning. We told him to hurry over, or we'd endeavor to assist him, and he came at last, with a miserable leaky little skiff that wet our feet completely. We gave him a pickayune for his trouble, and went on. We soon came to a neat little secluded cottage in the very heart of a thick forest, where we found a fine looking young man, with an interesting wife, and a very pretty child about six months old. Upon being told that we wanted some breakfast, the woman tucked up her sleeves, gave the child to her hus- band, and went to work in good earnest. In a very short time a capital meal was smoking on the board, and while we were partaking of the good cheer, we found our vexation rapidly evaporating. We complimented the handsome young hostess,

18 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

putted the cliubby cheeks of the child, and were in a good humor with every body.

6th. — Soon after we started this morning, we were overtaken by a stage wliich was going to Fulton, seven miles distant, and as the roads were somewhat heavy, we concluded to make use of this convenience. The only passengers were three vouno- men from the far west, who had been to the eastward purchasing goods, and were then travelling homeward. Two of them evidently possessed a large share of what is called mother wit, and so we had jokes without number. Some of them were not very refined, and perhaps did not suit the day very well, (it being the Sabbath,) yet none of them were really offensive, but seemed to proceed entirely from an exuberance of animal spirits.

In about an hour and a half we arrived at Fulton, a pretty little town, and saw the villagers in their holiday clothes parading along to church. The bell at that moment sounded, and the peal gave rise to many reflections. It might be Ions ere I should hear the sound of the " church-2;oino; bell" again. I was on my way to a far, far country, and I did not know that I should ever be permitted to re-visit my own. I felt that I was leaving the scenes of my childhood ; the spot which had v/itnessed all the happiness I ever knew, the home where all my affections were centered. I was entering a land of strangers, and would be compelled hereafter to mingle with those who might look upon me with indifference, or treat me with neglect.

These reflections were soon checked, however. We took a light lunch at the tavern where we stopped. I shouldered my gun, Mr. N. his stick and bundle, and off we trudged again, westward, ho ! We soon lost sight of the prairie entirely, and our way lay through a country thickly covered with heavy timber, the roads very rough and stony, and we had frequently to ford

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 19

the creeks on our route, the late freshets having carried away the briclfres.

Our accommodation at the farm houses has generally been good and comfortable, and the inhabitants obliging, and anxious to please. They are, however, exceedingly inquisitive, pro- pounding question after question, in such quick succession as scarcely to allow you breathing time between them. This kind of catechising was at first very annoying to us, but we have now become accustomed to it, and have hit upon an expedient to avoid it in a measure. The first question generally asked, is, "where do you come from, gentlemen?" We frame our answer somewhat in the style of Dr. Franklin. " We come from Penn- sylvania; our names, Nuttall and Townsend ; we are travelling to Independence on foot, for the purpose of seeing the country to advantage, and we intend to proceed from thence across the mountains to the Pacific. Have you any mules to sell 1" The last clause generally changes the conversation, and saves us trouble. To a stranger, and one not accustomed to the manners of the western people, this kind of interrogating seems to imply a lack of modesty and common decency, but it is cer- tainly not so intended, each one appearing to* think himself enti- tled to gain as much intelligence regarding the private aifairs of a stranger, as a very free use of his lingual organ can pro- cure for him.

We found the common gray squirrel very abundant in some places, particularly in the low bottoms along water courses; in some situations we saw them skipping on al- most every tree. On last Christmas day, at a squirrel hunt in this neighborhood, about thirty persons killed the astonish- ing number of twelve hundred, between the rising and setting of the sun.

This may seem like useless barbarity, but it is justified by the consideration Ihat all the crops of corn in the country arc fre-

20 :^ARnATivE of a journey

quently destroyed by these animals. This extensive extermina- tion is carried on every year, and yet it is said that their numbers do not appear to be much diminished.

About mid-day, on the 7th, we passed through a small town called Columbia, and stopped in the evening at Rocheport, a little village on the Missouri river. We were anxious to find a steam- boat bound for Independence, as we feared we might linger too long uj)on the road to make the necessary preparations for our contemplated journey.

On the following day, we crossed the Missouri, opposite Roche- port, in a small skiif. The road here, for several miles, winds along the bank of the river, amid fine groves of sycamore and Athenian poplars, then stretches off for about three miles, and does not again approach it until you arrive at Boonville. It is by far the most hilly road that we have seen, and I was frequently re- minded, while travelling on it, of our Chester county. We entered the town of Boonville early in the afternoon, and took lodgings in a very clean, and respectably kept hotel. I was much pleased with Boonville. It is the prettiest town I have seen in Missouri; situated on the bank of the river, on an elevated and beautiful spot, and overlooks a large extent of lovely country. The town contains two good hotels, (but no grog shops, properly so called,) several well-furnished stores, and five hundred inhabitants. It was laid out thirty years ago by the celebrated western pioneer, whose name it bears.

We saw here vast numbers of the beautiful parrot of this country, (the Psittacus carolinensis.) They flew around us in flocks, keeping a constant and loud screaming, as though they would chide us for invading their territory ; and the splendid green and red of their plumage glancing in the sunshine, as they whirled and circled within a few feet of us, had a most magnificent ap- pearance. They seem entirely unsuspicious of danger, and after being fired at, only huddle closer together, as if to obtain protec-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 21

tion from each other, and as their companions are falling around them, they curve down their necks, and look at them fluttering upon the ground, as though perfectly at a loss to account for so unusual an occurrence. It is a most inglorious sort of shooting ; down right, cold-blooded murder.

On the afternoon of the 9th, a steamboat arrived, on board of which we were surprised and pleased to find Captain Wyeth, and our ^^ plunder.'''' We embarked immediately, and soon after, were puffing along the Missouri, at the rate of seven miles an hour. When we stopped in the afternoon to " wood," we were gratified by a sight of one of the enormous catfish of this river and the Mississippi, weighing full sixty pounds. It is said, however, that they are sometimes caught of at least double this weight. They are excellent eating, coarser, but quite as good as the common small catfish of our rivers. There is nothing in the scenery of the river banks to interest the traveller particularly. The country is generally level and sandy, re- lieved only by an occasional hill, and some small rocky accli- vities.

A shocking accident happened on board during this trip. A fine looking black boy (a slave of one of the deck passengers) was standing on the platform near the fly-wheel. The steam had just been stopped off", and the wheel was moving slowly by the impetus it had acquired. The poor boy unwittingly thrust his head between the spokes^ a portion of the steam was at that moment let on, and his head and shoulders were torn to frag- ments. We buried him on shore the same day ; the poor wo- man, his mistress, weeping and lamenting over him as for her own child. She told me she had brought him up from an infant ; he had been as an affectionate son to her, and for years her only support.

March 20th. — On the morning of the 14th, we arrived at Independence landing, and shortly afterwards, Mr. N. and

22 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

myself walked to the town, three miles distant. The country here is very hilly and. rocky, thickly covered with timber, and no prairie within several miles.

The site of the town is beautiful, an* very well selected, standing on a high point of land, and overlooking the surround- ing country, but the town itself is very indifferent ; the houses, (about fifty,) are very much scattered, composed of logs and clay, and are low and inconvenient. There are six or eight stores here, two taverns, and a few tipling houses. As we did not fancy the town, nor the society that we saw there, we concluded to take up our residence at the house on the landing until the time of starting on our journey. We were very much disap- pointed in not being able to purchase any mules here, all the saleable ones having been bought by the Santa Fee traders, several weeks since. Horses, also, are rather scarce, and are sold at higher prices than we had been taught to expect, the demand for them at this time being greater than usual. Mr. N. and myself have, however, been so fortunate as to find five excellent animals amongst the hundreds of wretched ones offered for sale, and have also engaged a man to attend to packing our loads, and perform the various duties of our camp.

The men of the party, to the number of about fifty, are en- camped on tlie bank of the river, and their tents whiten the plain for the distance of half a mile. I have often enjoyed the view on a fine moonlight evening from the door of the house, or perched upon a high hill immediately over the spot. The beau- tiful white tents, with alight gleaming from each, the smoulder- ing fires around them, the incessant hum of the men, and occasionally the lively notes of a bacchanalian song, softened and rendered sweeter by distance. I probably contemplate these and similar scenes with the more interest, as they exhibit the manner in which the next five months of my life are to be spent.

ACROSS TIIK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 23

We have amongst our men, a great variety of dispositions- Some who have not been accustomed to the kind of life they are to lead in future, look forvv^ard to it with eager delight, and talk of stirring incidents and hair-breadth 'scapes. Others who are more experienced seem to be as easy and unconcerned about it as a citizen would be in contemplating a drive of a few miles into the country. Some have evidently been reared in the shade, and not accustomed to hardships, but the majority are strong, able-bodied men, and many are almost as rough as the grizzly bears, of their feats upon which they are fond of boasting.

During the day the captain keeps all his men employed in arranging and packing a vast variety of goods for carriage. In addition to the necesssary clothing for the company, arms, am- munition, &,c., there are thousands of trinkets of various kinds, beads, paint, bells, rings, and such trumpery, intended as pre- sents for the Indians, as well as objects of trade with them. The bales are usually made to weigh about eighty pounds, of which a horse carries two.

I am very much pleased with the manner in which Captain W. manages his men. He appears admirably calculated to gain the good will, and ensure the obedience of such a company, and adopts the only possible mode of accomplishing his end. They are men who have been accustomed to act independently ; they possess a strong and indomitable spirit which will never succumb to authority, and will only be conciliated by kindness and fami- liarity. I confess I admire this spirit. It is noble ; it is free and characteristic, but for myself, I have not been accustomed to seeing it exercised, and when a rough fellow comes up without warning, and slaps me on the shoulder, with, " stranger what for a gun is that you carry ?" I start, and am on the point of making an angry reply, but I remember where I am, check the feeling instantly, and submit the weapon to his inspection. Captain W.

24 Is'ARRATIVE OF A JOUKNEV

may frequently be seen sitting on the ground, surrounded by a knot of his independents, consulting them as to his present ar- rangements and future movements, and paying the utmost defer- ence to the opinion of the least among them.

We were joined here by Mr. Milton Sublette, a trader and trapper of some ten or twelve years' standing. It is his intention to travel with us to the mountains, and we are very glad of his com- pany, both on account of his intimate acquaintance with the country, and the accession to our band of about twenty trained hunters, " true as the steel of their tried blades," who have more than once followed their brave and sagacious leader over the very track which we intend to pursue. He appears to be a man of strong sense and courteous manners, and his men are enthu- siastically attached to him.

Five missionaries, who intend to travel under our escort, have also just arrived. The principal of these is a Mr. Jason Lee, (a tall and powerful man, who looks as though he were well cal- culated to buffet difficulties in a wild country,) his nephew, Mr. Daniel Lee, and three younger men of respectable standing in society, who have arrayed themselves under the missionary banner, chiefly for the gratification of seeing a new country, and participating in strange adventures.

My favorites, the birds, are very numerous in this vicinity, and I am therefore in my element. Parroquets are plentiful in the bottom lands, the two species of squirrel are abundant, and rabbits, turkies, and deer are often killed by our people.

I was truly rejoiced to receive yesterday a letter from my family. I went to the office immediately on my arrival here, con- fidently expecting to find one lying there for me ; I was told there was none, and I could not believe it, or would not ; I took all the letters in my hand, and examined each of them myself, and I suppose that during the process my expressions of disappoint- ment were " loud and deep," as I observed the eyes of a number

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 25

of persons in the store directed towards me with manifest curiosity and surprise. The obtuse creatures could not appreciate my feelings. I was most anxious to receive intelligence from home, as some of the members of the family were indisposed when I left, and in a few days more I should be traversing the uncultivated prairie and the dark forest, and perhaps never hear from my home again. The letter came at last, however, and was an inexpressible consolation to me.

The little town of Independence has within a few weeks been the scene of a brawl, which at one time threatened to be attended with serious consequences, but which was happily settled without bloodshed. It had been for a considerable time the stronghold of a sect of fanatics, called Mormons, or Mormonites, who, as their numbers increased, and they obtained power, showed an inclination to lord it over the less assuming inhabitants of the town. This was a source of irritation which they determined to rid them- selves of in a summary manner, and accordingly the whole town rose, en masse, and the poor followers of the prophet were forcibly ejected from the community. They took refuge in the little town of Liberty, on the opposite side of the river, and the villagers here are now in a constant state of feverish alarm. Reports have been circulated that the Mormons are preparing to attack the town, and put the inhabitants to the sword, and they have therefore stationed sentries along the river for several miles, to prevent the landing of the enemy. The troops parade and study military tactics every day, and seem determined to repel, with spirit, the threatened invasion. The probability is, that the re- port respecting the attack, is, as John Bull says, " all humbug," and this training and marching has already been a source of no little annoyance to us, as the miserable little skeleton of a saddler who is engaged to work for our party, has neglected his busi- ness, and must go a soldiering in stead. A day or two ago, I tried

to convince the little man that he was of no use to the army,

4

26 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

ibr if a Monnoii were to say pooh at him, it would blow him away beyond the reach of danger or of glory ; but he thought not, and no doubt concluded that he was a "marvellous pro- per man," so we were put to great inconvenience waiting for our saddles.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 27

CHAPTER 11.

Departure of the caravan — A storm on the prairie — Arrangement of the camp — The cook''s desertion — Kanzas Indians — Kanzas river — Indian lodges — Passage of the river — Buffalo canoes — Kanzas chief — Costume of the In- dians— Upper Kaw village — their wigwams — Catfish and ravens — Iteturn of JUr. Sublette — Pawnee trace — Desertion of three men — Difficulties occa- sioned by losing the trail — Intelligence of J\ir. Sublette's party — Escape of the band of horses — Visit of three Otto Indians —Anecdote of Richardson, the chief hunter — his appearance and character — Tf'hite wolves and antelopes — Buffalo bones — Sublette^s deserted cainp — Lurking wolves.

On the 28th of April, at 10 'o'clock in the morning, our caravan, consisting of seventy men, and two hundred and fifty horses, began its march ; Captain Wyeth and Milton Sublette took the lead, Mr. N. and myself rode beside them ; then the men in double file, each leading, with a line, two horses heavily laden, and Captain Thing (Captain W.'s assistant) brought up the rear. The band of missionaries, with their horned cattle, rode along the flanks.

I frequently sallied out from my station to look at and admire the appearance of the cavalcade, and as we rode out from the encampment, our horses prancing, and neighing, and pawing the ground, it was altogether so exciting that I could scarcely contain myself. Every man in the company seemed to feel a portion of the same kind of enthusiasm ; uproarious bursts of merriment, and gay and lively songs, were constantly echoing along the line. We were certainly a most merry and happy company. What cared we for the future 1 We had reason to expect that ere long difficulties and dangers, in various shapes,

28 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

would assail us, but no anticipation of reverses could check the happy exuberance of our spirits.

Our road lay over a vast rolling prairie, with occasional small spots of timber at the distance of several miles apart, and this will no doubt be the complexion of the track for some weeks.

In the afternoon we crossed the Big Blue river at a shallow ford. Here we saw a number of beautiful yellow-headed troopials, (Icterus zaiithrocephalus,) feeding upon the prairie in company with large flocks of black birds, and like these, they oflen alight upon the backs of our horses.

29th. — A heavy rain fell all the morning, which had the effect of calming our transports in a great measure, and in the afternoon it was succeeded by a tremendous hail storm. During the rain, our party left the road, and proceeded about a hundred yards from it to a range of bushes, near a stream of water, for the purpose of encamping. We had just arrived here, and had not yet dismounted, when the hail storm com- menced. It came on very suddenly, and the stones, as large as musket balls, dashing upon our horses, created such a panic among them, that they plunged, and kicked, and many of them threw their loads, and fled wildly over the plain. They were all overtaken, however, and as the storm was not of long duration, they were soon appeased, and staked for the night.

To stake or fasten a horse for the night, he is provided with a strong leathern halter, with an iron ring attached to the chin strap. To this ring, a rope of hemp or plaited leather, twenty- two feet in length, is attached, and the opposite end of the line made fast with several clove hitches around an oak or hickofy pin, two and a half feet long. The top of this pin or stake is ringed with iron to prevent its being bruised, and it is then driven to the head in the ground. For greater security, hopples made of stout leather are buckled around the fore legs ; and then,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 29

if tlie tackling is good, it is almost impossible for a horse to escape. Care is always taken to stake him in a spot where he may eat grass all night. The animals are placed sufficiently far apart to prevent them interfering with each other.

Camping out to-night is not so agreeable as it might be, in consequence of the ground being very wet and muddy, and our blankets (our only bedding) thoroughly soaked ; but we expect to encounter greater difficulties than these ere long, and we do not murmur.

A description of the formation of our camp may, perhaps, not be amiss here. The party is divided into messes of eigh|. men, and each mess is allowed a separate tent. The captain of a mess, (who is generally an " old hand," i. e. an experienced forester, hunter, or trapper,) receives each morning the rations of pork, flour, «Sz;c. for his people, and they choose one of their body as cook for the whole. Our camp now consists of nine messes, of which Captain W.'s forms one, although it only contains four persons besides the cook.

When we arrive in the evening at a suitable spot for an en- campment. Captain W. rides round a space which he considers large enough to accommodate it, and directs where each mess shall pitch its tent. The men immediately unload their horses, and place their bales of goods in the direction indicated, and in such manner, as in case of need, to form a sort of fortification and defence. When all the messes are arranged in this way, the camp forms a hollow square, in the centre of which the horses are placed and staked firmly to the ground. The guard consists of from six to eight men, and is relieved three times each night, and so arranged that each gang may serve alternate nights. The captain of a guard (who is generally also the captain of a mess) collects his people at the appointed hour, and posts them around outside the camp in such situations that they may com-

30 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

mand a view of the environs, and be ready to give the alarm m case of danger.

The captain cries the hour regularly by a watch, and alVs well, every fifteen minutes, and each man of the_ guard is re- quired to repeat this call in rotation, which if any one should fail to do, it is fair to conclude that he is asleep, and he is then immediately visited and stirred up. In case of defection of this kind, our laws adjudge to the delinquent the hard sentence of walking three days. As yet none of our poor fellows have incurred this penalty, and the probability is, that it would not at this time be enforced, as we are yet in a country where little molestation is to be apprehended ; but in the course of another week's travel, when thieving and ill-designing Indians will be outlying on our trail, it will be necessary that the strictest watch be kept, and, for the preservation of our persons and pro- perty, that our laws shall be rigidly enforced.

31(11/ 1st. — On rising this morning, and inquiring about our prospects of a breakfast, we discovered that the cook of our mess (a little, low-browed, ill-conditioned Yankee) had decamped in the night, and left our service to seek for a better. He probably thought the duties too hard for him, but as he was a miserable cook, we should not have much regretted his departure, had he not thought proper to take with him an excellent rifle, powder-horn, shot-pouch, and other matters that did not belong to him. It is only surprising that he did not select one of our best horses to carry him ; but as he had the grace to take his departure on foot, and we have enough men without liim, wc can wish him God speed, and a fair run to the settlements.

We encamped this evening on a small branch of the Kanzas river. As wc approached our stopping place, we were joined by a band of Kanzas Indians, (commonly called Kaic Indians.) They are encamped in a neighboring copse, where they have

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 31

six lodges. This party is a small division of a portion of this tribe, who are constantly wandering; but although their journeys are sometimes pretty extensive, they seldom approach nearer to the settlements than they arc at present. They are very friendly, are not so tawdrily decorated as those we saw below, and use little or no paint. This may, however, be accounted for by their not having the customary ornaments, &c., as their ears are filled with trinkets of various kinds, and are horribly gashed in the usual manner. The dress of most that we have seen, has consisted of ordinary woollen pantaloons received from the whites, and their only covering, from the waist up, is a blanket or buffalo robe. The head is shaved somewhat in the manner of the Saques and Foxes, leaving the well known scalping tufl; but unlike the Indians just mentioned, the hair is allowed to grow upon the middle of the head, and extends backwards in a longi- tudinal ridge to the occiput. It is here gathered into a kind of queue, plaited, and suffered to hang down the back. There were amongst them several squaws, with young children tied to their backs, and a number of larger urchins ran about our camp wholly naked.

The whole of the following day we remained in camp, trading buffalo robes, apishemeaus, &c., of the Indians. These people became at length somewhat troublesome to us who were not traders, by a very free exercise of their begging propensities. They appear to be exceedingly poor and needy, and take the liberty of asking unhesitatingly, and without apparent fear of refusal, for any articles that happen to take their fancy.

I have observed, that among the Indians now with us, none but the chief uses the pipe. He smokes the article called kanikanik, — a mixture of tobacco and the dried leaves of the poke plant, {Phytolacca decandra.) I was amused last evening by the old chief asking me in his impressive manner, (first by pointing with his finger towards the sunset, and then raising his

32 NARRATIVE OI" A JOURNEY

hands high over his head,) if 1 was going to the mountains. On answering him in the affirmative, he depressed his hands, and passed them around his head in both directions, then turned quickly away from me, with a very solemn and significant ugh! He meant, doubtless, that my brain was turned ; in plain lan- guage, that I was a fool. This may be attributed to his horror of the Blackfcet Indians, with whom a portion of his tribe was formerly at war. The poor Kaws are said to have suffered dreadfully in these savage conflicts, and were finally forced to abandon the country to their hereditary foes.

We were on the move early the next morning, and at noon arrived at the Kanzas river, a branch of the Missouri. This is a broad and not very deep stream, with the water dark and turbid, like that of the former. As we approached it, we saw a number of Indian lodges, made of saplings driven into the ground, bent over and tied at top, and covered with bark and bufililo skms. These lodges, or wigwams, are numerous on both sides of the river. As we passed them, the inhabitants, men, women, and children, flocked out to see us, and almost prevented our pro- gress by their eager greetings. Our party stopped on the bank of the river, and the horses were unloaded and driven into the water. They swam beautifully, and with great regularity, and arrived safely on the opposite shore, where they were confined in a large lot, enclosed with a fence. After some difficulty, and considerable detention, we succeeded in procuring a large flat bottomed boat, embarked ourselves and goods in it, and landed on the opposite side near our horse pen, where we encamped. The lodges are numerous here, and there are also some good frame houses inhabited by a few white men and women, who subsist cliiefly by raising cattle, which they drive to the settle- ments below. They, as well as the Indians, raise an abundance of good corn ; potatoes and other vegetables are also plentiful, and they can therefore live sufficiently well.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 33

The canoes used by the Indians are mostly made of buflalo skins, stretched, while recent, over a light frame work of wood, the seams sewed with sinews, and so closely, as to be wholly impervious to water. These light vessels are remarkably buoyant, and capable of sustaining very heavy burthens.

In the evening the principal Kanzas chief paid us a visit in our tent. He is a young man about twenty-five years of age, straight as a poplar, and with a noble countenance and bearing, but he appeared to me to be marvellously deficient in most of the requisites which go to make the character of a real Indian chief, at least of such Indian chiefs as we read of in our popular books. I begin to suspect, in truth, that these lofty and dignified attributes are more apt to exist in the fertile brain of the novelist, than in reality. Be this as it may, our chief is a very lively, laughing, and rather playful personage ; perhaps he may put on his dignity, like a glove, when it suits his convenience.

We remained in camp the whole of next day, and traded with tlic Indians for 'a considerable number of robes, apishemeaus, and halter ropes of hide. Our fat bacon and tobacco were in sreat demand for these useful commodities.

The Kaws living here appear to be much more wealthy than those who joined our camp on the prairie below. They are in better condition, more richly dressed, cleaner, and more com- fortable than their wandering brothers. The men have gene- rally fine countenances, but all the women that I have seen are homely. I cannot admire them. Their dress consists, univer- sally of deer skin leggings, belted around the loins, and over the upper part of the body a buffalo robe or blanket.

On the 20th in the morning, we packed our horses and rode out of the Kaw settlement, leaving the river immediately, and making a N. W. by W. course — and the next day came to an- other village of the same tribe, consisting of about thirty lodges,

and situated in the midst of a beautiful level prairie.

5

34 NARHATIVE OF A JOUnNEY

The Indians stopped our caravan almost by force, and evinced so much anxiety to trade with us, that we could not well avoid gratifying them. We remained with them about two hours, and bought corn, moccasins and leggings in abundance. The lodges here are constructed very differently from those of the lower village. They are made of large and strong timbers, a ridge pole runs along the top, and the different pieces are fast- ened together by leathern thongs. The roofs, — which are sin- gle, making but one angle, — are of stout poplar bark, and form an excellent defence, both against rain and the rays of the sun, which must be intense during midsummer in this region. These prairies are often visited by heavy gales of wind, which would probably demolish the huts, were they built of frail materials like those below. We encamped in the evening on a small stream called Little Vermillion creek, where we found an abundance of excellent catfish, exactly similar to those of the Schuylkill river. Our people caught them in great numbers. Here we first saw the large ravens, (Corvus corax.) They hopped about the ground all around our camp ; and as we left it, they came in' pell-mell, croaking, fighting, and scrambling for the few frag- ments that remained.

Sth. — This morning Mr. Sublette lefl us to return to the set- tlements. He has been suffering for a considerable time with a fungus in one of his legs, and it has become so much worse since we started, in consequence of irritation caused by riding, that he finds it impossible to proceed. His departure has thrown a gloom over the v/hole camp. We all admired him for his amia- ble qualities, and his kind and obliging disposition. For myself, I had become so much attached to him, that I feel quite melan- choly about his leaving us.*

*1 have since learned that his liml) was twice amputated; but notwitlistanding this, the disease lingered in the system, andal)outa year ago, terminated his life.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 35

The weather is now very warm, and there has been a dead cahn all day, which renders travelling most uncomfortable. We have frequently been favored with fresh breezes, which make it very agreeable, but the moment these fail us we are almost suffocated with intense heat. Our rate of travelling is about twenty miles per day, which, in this warm weather, and with heavily packed horses, is as much as we can accomplish with comfort to ourselves and animals.

On the afternoon of the next day, we crossed a broad Indian trail, bearing northerly, supposed to be about five days old, and to have been made by a war party of Pawnees. We are now in the country traversed by these Indians, and are daily expecting to see them, but Captain W. seems very desirous to avoid them, on account of their well known thieving propensities, and quar- relsome disposition. These Indians go every year to the plains of the Platte, where they spend some weeks in hunting the buffalo, jerking their meat, and preparing their skins for robes ; they then push on to the Black Hills, and look out for the parties of Blackfeet, which are also bound to the Platte river plains When the opposing parties come in collision, (which frequently happens,) the most cruel and sanguinary conflicts ensue. In the evening, three of our men deserted. Like our quondam cook, they all took rifles, &c., that did not belong to them, and one of these happened to be a favorite piece of Captain W.'s, which had done him good service in his journey across this country two years ago. He was very much attached to the gun, and in despite of his calm and cool philosophy in all vexatious matters, he cannot altogether conceal his chagrin.

The little streams of this part of the country are fringed with a thick growth of pretty trees and bushes, and the buds are now swelling, and the leaves expanding, to " welcome back the spring." The birds, too, sing joyously amongst them, grosbeaks, thrushes, and buntings, a merry and musical band. I am par-

36 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

ticularly fond of sallying out early in the morning, and strolling around the camp. The light breeze just bends the tall tops of the grass on the boundless prairie, the birds are commencing their matin carollings, and all nature looks fresh and beautiful. The horses of the camp are lying comfortably on their sides, and seem, by the glances which they give me in passing, to know that their hour of toil is approaching, and the patient kine are ruminating in happy unconsciousness.

11th. — We encountered some rather serious difficulties to-day in fording several wide and deep creeks, having muddy and miry bottoms. Many of our horses, (and particularly those that were packed,) fell into the water, 'and it was with the greatest difficulty and labor that they were extricated. Some of the scenes presented were rather ludicrous to those who were not actors in them. The floundering, kicking, and falling of horses in the heavy slough, man and beast rolling over together, and squattering amongst the black mud, and the wo-begone looks of horse, rider, and horse-furniture, often excited a smile, even while we pitied their begrimed and miserable plight. All these troubles are owing to our having lost the trail yesterday, and we have been travelling to-day as nearly in the proper course as our compass indicated, and hope soon to find it.

12th. — Our scouts came in this morning with the intelligence that they had found a large trail of white men, bearing N. W. We have no doubt that this is Wm. Sublette's party, and that it passed us last evening. They must have travelled very rapidly to overtake us so soon, and no doubt had men ahead watching our motions. It seems rather unfriendly, perhaps, to run by us in this furtive way, without even stopping to say good morning, but Sublette is attached to a rival company, and all stratagems are deemed allowable when interest is concerned. Tt is a matter of some moment to be the first at the mountain rcn-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 37

dezvous, in order to obtain the furs brought every summer by the trappers.

Last night, while I Avas serving on guard, I observed an unusual commotion among our band of horses, a wild neighing, snorting, and plunging, for which I was unable to account. I directed several of my men to go in and appease them,, and endeavor to ascertain the cause. They had scarcely started, liowever, when about half of the band broke their fastenings, snapped the hopples on their legs, and went dashing right through the midst of the camp. DoAvn went several of the tents, the rampart of goods was cleared in gallant style, and away went the frightened animals at full speed over the plain. The whole camp was instantly aroused. The horses that remained, were bridled as quickly as possible ; we mounted them without saddles, and set off in hard pursuit after the fugitives. The night was pitch dark, but we needed no light to point out the way, as the clattering of hoofs ahead on the hard ground of the prairie, sounded like thunder. After riding half an hour, we overtook about forty of them, and surrounding them with difficulty, succeeded in driving them back, and securing them as before. Twenty men were then immediately despatched to scour the country, and bring in the remainder. This party was headed by Mr. Lee, our missionary, (who, with his usual promptitude, volunteered his services,) and they returned early this morning, bringing nearly sixty more. We find, however, upon counting the horses in our possession, that there are yet three missing.

While we were at breakfast,three Indians of the Otto tribe, came to our camp to see, and smoke with us. These were men of rather short stature, but strong and firmly built. Their coun- tenances resemble in general expression those of the Kanzas, and their dresses are very similar. We are all of opinion, that it is to these Indians we owe our difficulties of last night, and we have no doubt that the three missino; horses are now in their

38 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY —

possession, but as we cannot prove it upon them, and cannot even converse with them, (having no interpreters,) we are com- pelled to submit to our loss in silence. Perhaps we should even be thankful that we have not lost more.

While these people were smoking the pipe of peace with us, after breakfast, I observed that Richardson, our chief hunter, (an experienced man in this country, of a tall and iron frame, and almost child-like simplicity of character, in fact an exact coun- terpart of Hawk-eye in his younger days,) stood aloof, and re- fused to sit in the circle, in which it was always the custom of the old hands to join- Feeling some curiosity to ascertain the cause of this unusual diffidence, I occasionally allowed my eyes to wander to the spot where our sturdy hunter stood looking moodily upon us, as the calamet passed from hand to hand around the circle, and I thought I perceived him now and then cast a furtive glance at one of the Indians who sat opposite to me, and sometimes his countenance would assume an expression almost demoniacal, as though the most fierce and deadly passions were raging in his bosom. I felt certain that hereby hung a tale, and I watched for a corresponding expression, or at least a look of consciousness, in the face of my opposite neighbor, but expression there was none. His large features were settled in a tranquillity which no- thing could disturb, and as he puffed the smoke in huge volumes from his mouth, and the fragrant vapor wreathed and curled around his head, he seemed the embodied spirit of meekness and taciturnity.

The camp moved soon after, and I lost no time in overhaul- ing Richardson, and asking an explanation of his singular con- duct.

" Why," said he, " that Jnjen that sat opposite to you, is my bitterest enemy. I was once going down alone from the rendez- vous with letters for St. Louis, and when I arrived on the lower

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 39

part of the Platte river, (just a short distance beyond us here,) I fell in with about a dozen Ottos. They wez'e known to be a friendly tribe, and I therefore felt no fear of them. I dismounted from my horse and sat with them upon the ground. It was in the depth of winter ; the ground was covered with snow, and the river was frozen solid. While I was thinking of nothino; but my dinner, which I was then about preparing, four or five of the cowards jumped on me, mastered my rifle, and held my arms fast, while they took from me my knife and tomahawk, my flint and steel, and all my ammunition. They then loosed me, and told me to be off. I begged them, for the love of God, to give me my rifle and a few loads of ammmunition, or I should starve before I could reach the settlements. No — I should have nothing, and if I did not start off immediately, they would throw me under the ice of the river. And," continued the excited hunter, — while he ground his teeth with bitter, and uncontrollable rage, — " that man that sat opposite to you was the chief of them. He recog- nised me, and knew very well the reason why I would not smoke with him. I tell you, sir, if ever I meet that man in any other situation than that in which I saw him this morning, I'll shoot him with as little hesitation as I would shoot a deer. Several years have passed since the perpetration of this outrage, but it is still as fresh in my memory as ever, and I again declare, that if ever an opportunity offers, I will kill that man." " But, Richard- son, did they take your horse also ?" " To be sure they did, and my blankets, and every thing I had, except my clothes." " But how did you subsist until you reached the settlements ? You had a long journey before you." " Why, set to trappin' prairie squir- rels with little nooses made out of the hairs of my head." I should remark that his hair was so long, that it fell in heavy masses on his shoulders. " But squirrels in winter, Richardson, I never heard of squirrels in winter." " Well but there was plenty of them, though ; little white ones, that lived among the

40 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

snow." " Well, really, this was an unpleasant sort of adventure enough, but let me suggest that you do very wrong to remember it with such blood-thirsty feelings." He shook his head with a dogged and determined air, and rode off as if anxious to escape a lecture.

A little sketch of our hunter may perhaps not be uninterest- ing, as he will figure somewhat in the following pages, being one of the principal persons of the party, the chief hunter, and a man upon whose sagacity and knowledge of the country we all in a great measure depended.

In heisht he is several inches over six feet, of a spare but re- markably strong and vigorous frame, and a countenance of almost infantile simplicity and openness. In disposition he is mild and affable, but when roused to indignation, his keen eyes glitter and flash, the muscles of his large mouth work convul- sively, and he looks the very impersonation of the spirit of evil. He is implacable in anger, and bitter in revenge ; never forgetting a kindness, but remembering an injury with equal tenacity. Such is the character of our hunter, and none who have known him as I have, will accuse me of delineating from fancy. His na- tive place is Connecticut, which he left about twelve years ago, and has ever since been engaged in roaming through the bound- less plains and rugged mountains of the west, often enduring the extremity of famine and fatigue, exposed to dangers and vicissi- tudes of every kind, all for the paltry, and often uncertain pit- tance of a Rocky Mountain hunter. He says he is now tired of this wandering and precarious life, and when he shall be enabled to save enough from his earnings to buy a farm in Connecticut, he intends to settle down a quiet tiller of the soil, and enjoy the sweets of domestic felicity. But this day will probably never arrive. Even should he succeed in realizing a little fortune, and the farm should be taken, the monotony and tameness of the scene will weary his free spirit ; he will often sigh for a habi-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 41

tation on the broad prairie, or a ramble over the dreary moun- tains where his lot has so long been cast.

I5th. — We saw to-day several large white wolves, and two herds of antelopes. The latter is one of the most beautiful animals I ever saw. When full grown, it is nearly as large as a deer. The horns are rather short, with a single prong near the top, and anabiupt backward curve at the summit like a hook. The ears are very delicate, almost as thin as paper, and hooked at the tip like the horns. The legs are remarkably light and beautifully formed, and as it bounds over the plain, it seems scarcely to touch the ground, so exceedingly light and agile are its motions. This animal is the Antelope furcifer of zoologists, and inhabits the western prairies of North America exclusively. The ground here is strewn with great quantities of buffalo bones; the skulls of many of them in great perfection. I often thought of my friend Doctor M. and his golgotha, while we were kicking these fine specimens about the ground. We are now travelling along the banks of the Blue river, — a small fork of the Kanzas. The grass is very luxuriant and good, and we have excellent and beautiful camps every night.

This morning a man was sent ahead to see W. Sublette's camp, and bear a message to him, who returned in the evening with the information that the company is only one day's journey beyond, and consists of about thirty-five men. We see his deserted camps every day, and, in some cases, the fires are not yet extinguished. It is sometimes amusing to see the wolves lurking like guilty things around these camps, seeking for the fragments that may be left ; as our party approaches, they sneak away with a mean, hang-dog air, which often coaxes a whistling bullet out of the rifle of the wayfarer.

6

42 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURIVEV

CHAPTER III.

Arrival at the Platte river — Wolves and antelopes — Saline efflorescences — Anxiety of the men to see buffalo — Visit of two spies from tlie Grand Paw- nees—Forced march — A herd of bvffiilo — Elk — Singular conduct of the liorses— Killing a hnffalo — Indian mode of proairing buffalo — Great herd — Intention of the men to desert— Adventure with an Indian in the tent — Cir- cumspection necessary — Indian feat with bow and arrow — J\~otice of the Pawnee tribes — Disappearance of the buffalo from the plains of the Platte — A hunting adventure — XiUing- a buffalo — Butchering of a bull — Shameful desti^ction of the game — Hunters^ mode of quenching thirst.

On the 18th of May we arrived at the Platte river. It is from one and a half to two miles in width, very shoal ; large sand flats, and small, verdant islands appearing in every part. Wolves and antelopes were in great abundance here, and the latter were frequently killed by our men. We saw, also, the sandhill crane, great heron, (Ardea heroidas,) and the long- billed curlew, stalking about through the shallow water, and searching for their aquatic food.

The prairie is here as level as a race course, not the slightest undulation appearing throughout the whole extent of vision, in a north and westerly direction ; but to the eastward of the river, and about eight miles from it, is seen a range of high bluffs or sand banks, stretching away to the south-east until they are lost in the far distance.

The ground here is in many places encrusted with an impure salt, which by the taste appears to be a combination of the sul- phate and muriate of soda ; there are also a number of little pools, of only a few inches in depth, scattered over the plain, the water of v.hich is so bitter and pungent, that it seems to pene-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 43

trate into the tongue, and almost to produce decortication of the mouth.

We are now within about three days' journey of the usual haunts of the buffalo, and our men (particularly the uninitiated) look forward to our arrival amongst them with considerable anxiety. They have listened to the garrulous hunter's details of " approaching,'''' and " running,'''' and " quartering,'''' until they fancy themselves the very actors in the scenes related, and are fretting and fuming with impatience to draw their maiden triggers upon the unoffending rangers of the plain.

The next morning, we perceived two men on horseback, at a great distance; and upon looking at them with our telescope, discovered them to be Indians, and that they were approaching us. When they arrived within three or four hundred yards, they halted, and appeared to wish to communicate with us, but feared to approach too nearly. Captain W. rode out alone and joined them, while the party proceeded slowly on its way. In about fifteen minutes he returned with the information that they were of the tribe called Grand Pawnees. They told him that a war party of their people, consisting of fifteen hundred warriors, was encamped about thirty miles below; and the cap- tain inferred that these men had been sent to watch our motions, and ascertain our place of encampment ; he was therefore careful to impress upon them that we intended to go but a few miles further, and pitch our tents upon a little stream near the main river. When we were satisfied that the messengers were out of sight of us, on their return to their camp, our whole caravan was urged into a brisk trot, and we determined to steal a march upon our neighbors. The little stream was soon passed, and we went on, and on, without slackening our pace, until 12 o'clock at night. We then called a halt on the bank of the river, made a hasty meal, threw ourselves down in our blankets, without pitching the tents, and slept soundly for three hours. We were

44 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

then aroused, and off we went again, travelling steadily the whole day, making about thirty-five miles, and so got quite clear of the Grand Pawnees.

The antelopes are very numerous here. There is not half an hour during the day in which they are not seen, and they fre- quently permit the party to approach very near them. This afternoon, two beautiful does came bounding after ns, bleating precisely like sheep. The men imitated the call, and they came up to within fifty yards of us, and stood still; two of the hunters fired, and both the poor creatures fell dead. We can now pro- cure as many of these animals as we wish, but their flesh is not equal to common venison, and is frequently rejected by our people. A number are, however, slaughtered every day, from mere wantonness and love of killing, the greenhorns gloryino- in the sport, like our striplings of the city, in their annual murder- ing of robins and sparrows.

20th. — This afternoon, we came in sight of a large ga7ig of the long-coveted buffalo. They were grazing on the opposite side of the Platte, quietly as domestic cattle, but as we neared them, the foremost winded us, and started back, and the whole herd followed in the wildest confusion, and were soon out of sio-ht. There must have been many thousands of them. Towards evening, a large band of elk came towards us at full gallop, and passed very near the party. The appearance of these animals produced a singular effect upon our horses, all of which became restive, and about half the loose ones broke away, and scoured over the plain in full chase after the elk. Captain W. and several of his men went immediately in pursuit of them, and returned late at night, bringing the greater number. Two have, however, been lost irrecoverably. Our observed latitude, yes- terday, was 40° 31', and our computed distance from the Mis- souri settlements, about 360 miles.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS^ ETC. 45

The day following, we saw several small herds of buffalo, on our side of the river. Two of our hunters started out after a huge bull that had separated himself from his companions, and gave him chase on t?eet horses.

Away went the buffalo, and away went the men, hard as they could dash ; now the hunters gained upon him, and pressed him hard ; again the enormous creature had the advantage, plunging with all his might, his terrific horns oflen ploughing up the earth as he spurned it under him. Sometimes he would double, and rush so near the horses as almost to gore them with his horns, and in an instant would be off in a tangent, and throw his pursuers from the track. At length the poor animal came to bay, and made some unequivocal demonstrations of combat ; raising and tossing his head furiously, and tearing up the ground with his feet. At this moment a shot was fired. The victim trembled like an aspen, and fell to his knees, but recovering himself in an instant, started again as fast as before. Again the determined hunters dashed after him, but the poor bull was nearly exhausted, he proceeded but a short distance and stopped again. The hunters approached, rode slowly by him, and shot two balls through his body with the most perfect coolness and precision. During the race, — the whole of which occurred in full view of the party, — the men seemed wild with the excite- ment which it occasioned ; and when the animal fell, a shout rent the air, which startled the antelopes by dozens from the bluffs, and sent the wolves howling like demons from their lairs.

This is the most common mode of killing the buffalo, and is practised very generally by the travelling hunters ; many are also destroyed by approaching them on foot, when, if the bushes are sufficiently dense, or the grass high enough to afford con- cealment, the hunter, — by keeping carefully to leeward of his game, — may sometimes approach so near as almost to touch

46 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the animal. If on a plain, without grass or bushes, it is neces- sary to be very circumspect ; to approach so slowly as not to excite alarm, and, when observed by the animal, to imitate dexterously, the clumsy motions of a young bear, or assume the sneaking, prowling attitude of a wolf, in order to lull suspi- cion.*

The Indians resort to another stratagem, which is, perhaps, even more successful. The skin of a calf is properly dressed, with the head and legs left attached to it. The Indian envelopes himself in this, and with his short bow and a brace of arrows, ambles off into the very midst of a herd. When he has selected such an animal as suits his fancy, he comes close alongside of it, and without noise, passes an arrow through its heart. One arrow is always sufficient, and it is generally delivered with such force, that at least half the shaft appears through the opposite side. The creature totters, and is about to fall, when the Indian glides around, and draws the arrow from the wound lest it should be broken. A single Indian is said to kill a great number of buffaloes in this way, before any alarm is communicated to the herd.

Towards evening, on rising a hill, we were suddenly greeted by a sight which seemed to astonish even the oldest amongst us. The whole plain, as far as the eye could discern, was covered by one enormous mass of buffalo. Our vision, at the very least computation, would certainly extend ten miles, and in the whole of this great space, including about eight miles in width from the bluffs to the river bank, there was apparently no vista in the incalculable multitude. It was truly a sight that would have excited even the dullest mind to enthusiasm. Our party rode up to within a few hundred yards of the edge of the herd, before any alarm was communicated ; then the bulls, — which are always stationed around as sentinels, — began pawing the ground, and

* 1 have several times seen Ricliardsoii kill bufT;ilo in tiiis nianiier.

ACROSS THE ROCKV 3I0ITNTAINS, ETC. 47

throwing tlie earth over their heads ; in a few moments they started in a slow, clumsy canter ; but as we neared them, they quickened their pace to an astonishingly rapid gallop, and in a few minutes were entirely beyond the reach of our guns, but were still so near that their enormous horns, and long shaggy beards, were very distinctly seen. Shortly after we encamped, our hunters brought in the choice parts of five that they had killed.

For the space of several days past, we have observed an inclination in five or six of our men to leave our service. Immediately as we encamp, we see them draw together in some secluded spot, and engage in close and earnest conversation. This has occured several times, and as we are determined, if possible, to keep our horses, &c., for our own use, we have stationed a sentry near their tent, whose orders are peremptory to stop them at any hazard in case of an attempt on their part, to appropriate our horses. The men we are willing to lose, as they are of very little service, and we can do without them ; but horses here are valuable, and we cannot afford to part with them without a sufficient compensation.

22d. — On walkincr into our tent last niarht at eleven o'clock, after the expiration of the first watch, (in which I had served as supernumerary, to'prevent the desertion of the men,) and stooping to lay my gun in its usual situation near the head of my pallet, I was startled by seeing a pair of eyes, wild and bright as those of a tiger, gleaming from a dark corner of the lodge, and evidently directed upon me. My first impression was, that a wolf had been lurking around the camp, and had entered the tent in the prospect of finding meat. My gun was at my shoulder instinctively, my aim was directed between the eyes, and my finger pressed the trigger. At that moment a tall Indian sprang before me with a loud wah ! seized the gun, and elevated the muzzle above my head ; in another instant, a second Indian was by my side, and I saw his keen knife glitter as it left the

48 A^AERATIVE OF A JOURNEV

scabbard. I had not time for thought, and was struggling with all my might with the first savage for the recovery of my weapon, when Captain W., and the other inmates of the tent were aroused, and the whole matter was explained, and set at rest in a moment. The Indians were chiefs of the tribe of Pawnee Loups, who had come with their young men to shoot buffalo : they had paid an evening visit to the captain, and as an act of courtesy had been invited to sleep in the tent. I had not known of their arrival, nor did I even suspect that Indians were in our neighborhood, so could not control the alarm which their sudden appearance occasioned me.

As I laid myself down, and drew my blanket around me. Captain • W. touched me lightly with his finger, and pointed significantly to his own person, which I perceived, — by the fire liofht at the mouth of the tent, — to be garnished with his knife and pistols ; I observed also that the muzzle of his rifle laid across his breast, and that the breech was firmly grasped by one of his legs. I took the hint ; tightened my belt, drew my gun closely to my side, and composed myself to sleep. But the excitement of the scene through which I had just passed, effectually banished repose. I frequently directed my eyes towards the dark corner, and in the midst of the shapeless mass which occupied it, I could occasionally see the glittering orbs of our guest shining amidst the surrounding obscurity. At length fatigue conquered watchfulness, and I sank to sleep, dreaming of Indians, guns, daggers, and buffalo.

Upon rising the next morning, all had lefl the tent : the men were busied in cooking their morning meal ; kettles were hanging upon the rude cranes, great ribs of meat were roasting before the fires, and loading the air with fragrance, and my dreams and midnight I'everies, and apprehensions of evil, fled upon the wings of the bright morning, and nought remained but a feeling of surprise that the untoward events of the night should have disturbed my equanimity.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 49

While these thoughts were passing in my mind, my e}e suddenly encountered the two Indians. They were squatting upon the ground near one of the fires, and appeared to be surveying, with the keenness of morning appetite, the fine "/mmp ribs''' which were roasting before them. The moment they perceived me, I received from them a quick glance of recognition : the taller one, — my opponent of the previous night, — rose to his feet, walked towards me, and gave me his hand with great cordiality ; then pointed into the tent, made the motions of raising a gun to his shoulder, taking aim, and in short repeated the entire pantomime with great fidelity, and no little humor, laughing the whole time as though he thought it a capital joke. Poor fellow ! it was near proving a dear joke for him, and I almost trembled as I recollected the eager haste with which I sought to take the life of a fellow creature. The Indian evidently felt no ill will towards me, and as a proof of it, proposed an exchange of knives, to which I willingly acceded. He deposited mine, — which had my name engraved upon the handle, — in the sheath at his side, and walked away to his hump ribs with the air of a man who is conscious of having done a good action. As he left me, one of our old trappers took occasion to say, that in consequence of this little act of savage courtesy, the Indian became my firm friend ; and that if I ever met him again, I should be entitled to share his hospitality, or claim his protection.

While the men were packing the horses, after breakfast, I was again engaged with my Indian friend, I took his bow and ar- rows in my hand, and remarked that the latter were smeared with blood throughout : upon my expressing surprise at this, he told me, by signs, that they had passed through the body of the buffalo. I assumed a look of incredulity ; the countenance of the savage brightened, and his peculiar and strange eyes actually flashed with eagerness, as he pointed to a dead antelope lying

upon the ground about forty feet from us, and which one of

7

50 NAKKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the guard had shot near the camp in the morning. The animal lay upon its side with the breast towards us : the bow was drawn slightly, without any apparent effort, and the arrow flew through the body of the antelope, and skimmed to a great distance over the plain.

These Indians were the finest looking of any I had seen. Their persons were tall, straight, and finely formed ; their noses slightly aqualine, and the whole countenance expressive of high and daring intrepidity. The face of the taller one was particu- larly admirable ; and Gall or Spurzheim, at a single glance at his magnificent head, would have invested him with all the noblest qualities of the species. I know not what a physiognomist would have said of his eyes, but they were certainly the most wonderful eyes I ever looked into ; glittering and scintillating constantly, like the mirror-glasses in a lamp frame, and rolling and dancing in their orbits as though possessed of abstract volition.

The tribe to which these Indians belong, is a division of the great Pawnee nation. There are four of these divisions or tribes, known by the names of Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, Pawnee Republicans, and Pawnee Picts. They are all independent of each other, governed exclusively by chiefs chosen from among their own people, and although they have always been on terms of intimacy and friendship, never intermarry, nor have other in- tercourse than that of trade, or a conjunction of their forces to attack the common enemy. In their dealings with the whites, they are arbitrary and overbearing, chaffering about the price of a horse, or a beaver skin, with true huckster-like eagerness and mendacity, and seizing with avidity every unfair advantage, which circumstances or their own craft may put in their power.

The buffalo still continue immensely numerous in every di- rection around, and our men kill great numbers, so that we are in truth living upon the fat of the land, and better feeding need

ACROSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 51

no man wish. The savory buflalo hump has sufiered no depre- ciation since the " man without a cross" vaunted of its good qualities to " the stranger ;" and in this, as in many other par- ticulars, we have reahzed the truth and fidelity of Cooper's admi- rable descriptions.

23d. — When we rose this morning, not a single buffalo, of the many thousands that yesterday strewed the plain, was to be seen. It seemed like magic. Where could they have gone? I asked my- self this question again and again, but in vain. At length I ap- plied to Richardson, who stated that they had gone to the bluifs, but for what reason he could not tell ; he, however, had observed their tracks bearing towards the bluffs, and was certain that they would be found there. He and Sandsbury (another hunter) were then about starting on a hunt to supply the camp, and I con- cluded to accompany them ; Mr. Lee, the missionary, also joined us, and we all rode ofT together. The party got under way about the same time, and proceeded along the bank of the river, while we struck off south to look for the buffalo. About an hour's brisk trotting carried us to the bluffs, and we entered amongst large conical hills of yellow clay, intermixed with strata of lime- stone, but without the slightest vegetation of any kind. On the plains which we had left, the grass was in great luxuriance, but here not a blade of it was to be seen, and yet, as Richardson had predicted, here were the buffalo. We had not ridden a mile before we entered upon a plain of sand of great extent, and ob- served ahead vast clouds of dust rising and circling in the air as though a tornado or a whirlwind were sweeping over the earth. " Ha !" said Richardson, " there they are ; now let us take the wind of them, and you shall see some sport." We accordingly went around to leeward, and, upon approaching nearer, saw the huse animals rolling over and over in the sand with aston- ishing agility, enveloping themselves by the exercise in a per- fect atmosphere of dust ; occasionally two of the bulls would

52 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

spring from the ground and attack each other with amazing ad- dress and fury, retreating for ten or twelve feet, and then rush- ing suddenly forward, and dashing their enormous fronts together with a shock that seemed annihilating. In these rencontres, one of the combatants was often thrown back upon his haunches, and tumbled sprawling upon the ground ; in which case, the vic- tor, with true prizefighting generosity, refrained from persecut- ing his fallen adversary, contenting himself with a hearty re- sumption of his rolling fit, and kicking up the dust with more than his former vigor, as if to celebrate his victory.

This appeared to be a good situation to approach and kill the buffalo, as, by reason of the plentiful distribution of the little clay hills, an opportunity would be afforded of successful conceal- ment ; we separated, therefore, each taking his own course. In a very few minutes I heard the crack of a rifle in the direction in which Richardson had gone, and immediately after saw the frightened animals flying from the spot. The sound reverberated among the hills, and as it died away the herd halted to watch and listen for its repetition. For myself, I strolled on for nearly an hour, leading my horse, and peering over every hill, in the hope of finding a buffalo within range, but not one could I see that was sufiiciently near ; and when I attempted the stealthy approach which I had seen Richardson practise with so much success, I felt compelled to acknowledge my utter insufficiency. I had determined to kill a bufTalo, and as I had seen it several times done with so much apparent ease, I considered it a mere moonshine matter, and thought I could compass it without difficulty; but now I had attempted it, and was grievously mistaken in my estimate of the required skill. I had several times heard the guns of the hunters, and felt satisfied that we should not go to camp without meat, and was on the point of altering my course to join them, when, as I wound around the base of a little hill, I saw about twenty buffalo lying quietly on the ground within

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 53

thirty yards of me. Now was my time. I took my picket from my saddle, and fastened my horse to the ground as quietly as possible, but with hands that almost failed to do their office, from my excessive eagerness and trembling anxiety. When this was completed, I crawled around the hill again, almost suspending my breath from fear of alarming my intended victims, until 1 came again in full view of the unsuspecting herd. There were so many fine animals that I was at a loss which to select ; those nearest me appeared small and poor, and I therefore settled my aim upon a huge bull on the outside. Just then I was attacked with the " hull fever^'' so dreadfully, that for several minutes I could not shoot. At length, however, I became firm and steady, and pulled my trigger at exactly the right instant. Up sprang the herd like lightning, and away they scoured, and my bull with them. I was vexed, angry, and discontented ; I concluded that I could never kill a buffalo, and was about to mount my horse and ride off in despair, when I observed that one of the animals had stopped in the midst of his career. I rode towards him, and sure enough, there was my great bull trembling and swaying from side to side, and the clotted gore hanging like icicles from his nostrils. In a few minutes after, he fell heavily upon his side, and I dismounted and surveyed the unwieldy brute, as he panted and struggled in the death agony.

When the first ebullition of my triumph had subsided, I per- ceived that my prize was so excessively lean as to be worth nothing, and while I was exerting my whole strength in a vain endeavor to raise the head from the ground for the purpose of removing the tongue, the two hunters joined me, and laughed heartily at my achievement. Like all inexperienced hunters, I had been particular to select the largest bull in the gang, sup- posing it to be the best, (and it proved, as usual, the poorest,) while more than a dozen fat cows were nearer me, either of which I miffht have killed with as little trouble.

54 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

As I had supposed, my companions had killed several animals, but they had taken the meat of only one, and we had, therefore, to be diligent, or the camp might suffer for provisions. It was now past mid-day ; the weather was very warm, and the atmos- was charged with minute particles of sand, which produced a dryness and stiffness of the mouth and tongue, that was exceed- ingly painful and distressing. Water was now the desideratum, but where was it to be found 1 The arid country in which we then were, produced none, and the Platte was twelve or fourteen miles from us, and no buffalo in that direction, so that we could not afford time for so trifling a matter. I found that Mr. Lee was suffering as much as myself, although he had not spoken of it, and I perceived that Richardson was masticating a leaden bullet, to excite the salivary glands. Soon afterwards, a bull was killed, and we all assembled around the carcass to assist in the manipulations. The animal was first raised from his side where he had lain, and supported upon his knees, with his hoofs turned under him ; a longitudinal incision was then made from the nape, or anterior base of the hump, and continued backward to the loins, and a large portion of the skin from each side removed ; these pieces of skin were placed upon the ground, with the under surface uppermost, and the fleeces, or masses of meat, taken Irom along the back, were laid upon them. These fleeces, from a large animal, will weigh, perhaps, a hundred pounds each, and comprise the whole of the hump on each side of the vertical processes, (commonly called the hump ribs,) which are attached to the vertebra. The fleeces are con- sidered the choice parts of the buffalo, and here, where the game is so abundant, nothing else is taken, if we except the tongue, and an occasional marrow bone.

This, it must be confessed, appears like a useless and unwar- rantable waste of the goods of Providence ; but when are men economical, unless compelled to be so by necessity? Plei'e are

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 55

more than a thousand pounds of delicious and savory flesh, which would delight the eyes, and gladden the heart of any epicure in Christendom, left neglected where it fell, to feed the ravenous maw of the wild prairie wolf, and minister to the ex- cesses of the unclean birds of the wilderness. But I have seen worse waste and havoc than this, and I feel my indignation rise at the recollection. I have seen dozens of buffalo slaughtered mei-ely for the tongues, or for practice with the rifle ; and I have also lived to see the very perpetrators of these deeds, lean and lank with famine, when the meanest and most worthless parts of the poor animals they had so inhumanly slaughtered, would have been received and eaten with humble thankfulness.

But to return to ourselves. We were all sutFei-ing from ex- cessive thirst, and so intolerable had it at length become, that Mr. Lee and myself proposed a gallop over to the Platte river, in order to appease it ; but Richardson advised us not to go, as he had just thought of a means of relieving us, which he imme- diately proceeded to put in practice. He tumbled our mangled buffalo over upon his side, and with his knife opened the body, so as to expose to view the great stomach, and still crawling and twisting entrails. The good missionary and myself stood gaping with astonishment, and no little loathing, as we saw our hunter plunge his knife into the distended paunch, from which gushed the green and gelatinous juices, and then insinuate his tin pan into the opening, and by depressing its edge, strain off the water which was mingled with its contents.

Richardson always valued himself upon his politeness, and the cup was therefore first offered to Mr. Lee and myself, but it is almost needless to say that we declined the proffer, and our fea- tures probably expressed the strong disgust which we felt, for our companion laughed heartily before he applied the cup to his own mouth. He then drank it to the dregs, smacking his lips, and drawing a long breath after it, with the satisfaction of a man

56 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

taking his wine after dinner. Sansbury, the other hunter, was not slow in following the example set before him, and we, the audience, turned our backs upon the actors.

Before we lefl the spot, however, Richardson induced me to taste the blood which was still fluid in the heart, and immediately as it touched my lips, my burning thirst, aggravated by hunger, (for I had eaten nothing that day,) got the better of my abhorrence; I plunged my head into the reeking ven- tricles, and drank until forced to stop for breath. I felt some- what ashamed of assimilating myself so nearly to the brutes, and turned my ensanguined countenance towards the mis- sionary who stood by, but I saw no approval there : the good man was evidently attempting to control his risibility, and so I smiled to put him in countenance ; the roar could no longer be restrained, and the missionary laughed until the tears rolled down his cheeks. I did not think, until afterwards, of the horrible ghastliness which must have characterized my smile at that particular moment.

When we arrived at the camp in the evening, and I enjoyed the luxury of a hearty draft of water, the effect upon my stomach was that of a powerful emetic : the blood was violently ejected without nausea, and I felt heartily glad to be rid of the disgust- ing encumbrance. I never drank blood from that day.

ACKOSS TUB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 57

CHAPTER IV.

Change in the face of the country — Unpleasant visitation — its effects — J^orth fork of the Platte — .'? day's jotlrriey over the hills — Wormwood bushes, and poor pasture — J\Iarmots — Rattlesnake and gopher — JVatiiralist's success and sacrifices — ^1 sand storm — Jlild ho7-ses — Killing of a doe antelope — Bluffs of the Platte — The chimney — " Zip JCoon," the young antelope — Birds — Feel- ings and cogitations of a Jiaturcdist — Jlrrival at Laramie's fork — Departure of tivo ^^free trappers'" on a summer " hunt" — Black Hills — Rough travel- ling— Red butes — Sweet-water river, and Rock Independence — Avocets — Wind river mountains — Rocky JMountain sheep— Adventure of one of the m^n with a grizzly bear — Rattlesnakes — Toikome march, and arrival at Sandy river — Suffering of the horses — Anticipated delights of the rendezvous.

On the morning of the 24th of May we forded the Platte river, or rather its south fork, along which we had been travelling during the previous week. On the northern side, we found the country totally different in its aspect. Instead of the extensive and apparently interminable green plains, the monotony of which had become so wearisome to the eye, here was a great sandy waste, without a single green thing to vary and enliven the dreary scene. It was a change, however, and we were therefore enjoying it, and remarking to each other how particularly agreea- ble it was, when we were suddenly assailed by vast swarms of most ferocious little black gnats ; the whole atmosphere seemed crowded with them, and they dashed into our faces, assaulted our eyes, ears, nostrils, and mouths, as though they were determined to bar our passage through their territory. These little creatures were so exceedingly minute that, singly, they were scarcely

visible ; and yet their sting caused such excessive ; pain, that for

8 '

58 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the rest of the day our men and horses were rendered ahiiost fran- tic, the former bitterly imprecating, and the latter stamping, and kicking, and rolling in the sand, in tremendous, yet vain, efforts to rid themselves of their pertinacious little foes. It was rather amusing to see the whole company with their handkerchiefs, shirts, and coats, thrown over their heads, stemming the animated torrent, and to hear the greenhorns cursing their tormenters, the country, and themselves, for their foolhardiness in venturing on the journey. When we encamped in the evening, we built fires at the mouths of the tents, the smoke from which kept our ene- mies at a distance, and we passed a night of tolerable comfort, after a day of most peculiar misery.

The next morning I observed that the faces of all the men were more or less swollen, some of them very severely, and poor Captain W. was totally blind for two days afterwards.

25th. — We made a noon camp to-day on the north branch or fork of the river, and in the afternoon travelled along the bank of the stream. In about an hour's march, we came to rocks, precipices, and cedar trees, and although we anticipated some difficulty and toil in the passage of the heights, we felt glad to ex- change them for the vast and wearisome prairies we had left behind. Soon after we commenced the ascent, we struck into an Indian path very much worn, occasionally mounting over rugged masses of rock, and leaping wide fissures in the soil, and sometimes picking our way over the jutting crags, directly above the river. On the top of one of the stunted and broad spreading cedars, a bald eagle had built its enormous nest ; and as we descended the mountain, we saw the callow young lying within it, while the anxious parents hovered over our heads, screaming their alarm.

In the evening we arrived upon the plain again ; it was thickly covered with ragged and gnarled bushes of a species of worm- wood, (Artcmesia,) which perfumed the air, and at first was

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 59

rather agreeable. The soil was poor and sandy, and the strag- gling blades of grass which found their way to the surface were brown and withered. Here was a poor prospect for our horses ; a sad contrast indeed to the rich and luxuriant prairies we had left. On the edges of the little streams, however, we found some tolerable pasture, and we frequently stopped during the day to bait our poor animals in these pleasant places.

We observed here, several species of small marmots, (^Arcto- mys,) which burrowed in the sand, and were constantly skipping about the ground in front of our party. The short rattlesnake of the prairies was also abundant, and no doubt derived its chief subsistence from foraging among its playful little neighbors. Shortly before we halted this evening, being a considerable dis- tance in advance of the caravan, I observed a dead gopher, {Di- plostoma,) — a small animal about the size of a rat, with large ex- ternal cheek pouches, — lying upon the ground ; and near it a full grown rattlesnake, also dead. The gopher was yet warm and pliant, and had evidently been killed but a few minutes pre- viously; the snake also gave evidence of very recent death, by a muscular twitching of the tail, which occurs in most serpents, soon after life is extinct. It was a matter of interest to me to ascer- tain the mode by which these animals were deprived of life. I therefore dismounted from my horse, and examined them care- fully, but could perceive nothing to furnish even a clue. Neither of them had any external or perceptible wound. The snake had doubtless killed the quadruped, but what had killed the snake? Their being no wound upon its body was sufficient proof that the gopher had not used his teeth, and in no other way could he cause death.

I was unable to solve the problem to my satisfaction, so I pocketed the animal to prepare its skin, and rode on to the camp.

The birds thus far have been very abundant. There is a con-

60 NARRATIVE OF A JOURXF.Y

siderable variety, and many of them have not before been seen by naturalists. As to the plants, there seems to be no end to them, and Mr. N. is finding dozens of new species daily. In the other branches of science, our success has not been so great, partly on account of the rapidity and steadiness with which we travel, but chiefly from the difficulty, and almost impossibility, of carrying the subjects. Already we have cast away all our use- less and superfluous clothing, and have been content to mortify our natural pride, to make room for our specimens. Such things as spare waistcoats, shaving boxes, soap, and stockings, have been ejected from our trunks, and we are content to dress, as we live, in a style of primitive simplicity. In fact the whole appearance of our party is sufficiently primitive ; many of the men are dressed en- tirely in deer skins, without a single article of civilized manufac- ture about them ; the old trappers and hunters wear their hair flowing on their shoulders, and their large grizzled beards would scarcely disgrace a Bedouin of the desert.

The next morning the whole camp was suddenly aroused by the falling of all the tents. A tremendous blast swept as from a fun- nel over the sandy plain, and in an instant precipitated our frail habitations like webs of gossamer. The men crawled out from under the ruins, rubbing their eyes, and, as usual, muttering im- precations against the country and all that therein was ; it was unusually early for a start, but we did not choose to pitch the tents again, and to sleep without them here was next to impossi- ble; so we took our breakfast in the open air, devouring our well sanded provision as quickly as possible, and immediately took to the road.

During the whole day a most terrific gale was blowing directly in our faces, clouds of sand were driving and hurtling by us, often with such violence as nearly to stop our progress ; and when we halted in the evening, we could scarcely recognise each ofiier's faces beneath their odious mask of dust and dirt.

ACROSS THE ROCKY >r JTINTAINS, ETC. 61

There have been no buffalo upon the plain to day, all the game that we have seen, being a few elk and antelopes ; but these of course we did not attempt to kill, as our whole and undivided attention was required to assist our progress.

2Sth. — We fell in with a new species of game to day; — a large band of wild horses. They were very shy, scarcely per- mitting us to approach within rifle distance, and yet they kept within sight of us for some hours. Several of us gave them chase, in the hope of at least being able to approach sufficiently near to examine them closely, but we might as well have pur- sued the wind ; they scoured away from us with astonishing velocity, their long manes and tails standing out almost horizon- tally, as they sprang along before us. Occasionally they would pause in their career, turn and look at us as we approached them, and then, with a neigh that rang loud and high above the clatter- ing of the hoofs, dart their light heels into the air, and fly from us as before. We soon abandoned this wild chase, and contented ourselves with admiring their sleek beauty at a distance.

In the afternoon, I committed an act of cruelty and wanton- ness, which distressed and troubled me beyond measure, and which I have ever since recollected with sorrow and compunc- tion. A beautiful doe antelope came running and bleating after us, as though she wished to overtake the party ; she continued following us for nearly an hour, at times approaching within thirty or forty yards, and standing to gaze at us as we moved slowly on our way. I several times raised my gun to fire at her, but my better nature as often gained the ascendency, and I at last rode into the midst of the party to escape the temptation. Still the doe followed us, and I finally fell into the rear, but without intending it, and again looked at her as she trotted behind us. At that moment, my evil genius and love of sport triumphed ; I slid down from my horse, aimed at the poor ante- lope, and shot a ball through her side. Under other circum-

62 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

stances, there would have been no cruelty in this; but here, where better meat was so abundant, and the camp was so plentifully supplied, it was unfeeling, heartless murder. It was under the influence of this too late impression, that I approached my poor victim. She was writhing in agony upon the ground, and exertins: herself in vain efforts to draw her mangled body farther from her destroyer ; and as I stood over her, and saw her cast her large, sofl, black eyes upon me with an expression of the most touching sadness, while the great tears rolled over her face, I felt myself the meanest and most abhorrent thing in crea- tion. But now a finishing blow would be mercy to her, and I threw my arm around her neck, averted my face, and drove my lona; knife throuah her bosom to the heart. I did not trust myself to look upon her afterwards, but mounted my horse, and galloped off to the party, with feelings such as I hope never to experience again. For several days the poor antelope haunted me, and I shall never forget its last look of pain and upbraiding. The bluffs on the southern shore of the Platte, are, at this point, exceedingly rugged, and often quite picturesque ; the for- mation appears to be simple clay, intermixed, occasionally, with a stratum of limestone, and one part of the bluff bears a striking and almost startling resemblance to a dilapidated feudal castle. There is also a kind of obelisk, standinij at a considerable dis- tance from the bluffs, on a wide plain, towering to the height of about two hundred feet, and tapering to a small point at the top. This pillar is known to the hunters and trappers who tra- verse these regions, by the name of the " chimney.^^ Here we diverged from the usual course, leaving the bank of the river, and entered a large and deep ravine between the enormous bluffs.*

♦ These are called " Scott's Bluffs;" so named from an unfortunate trader, who perished here from disease and hunger, many years ago. He was deserted by his companions ; and the year following, his crumbling bones were found in this spot.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 63

The road was very uneven and difficult, winding from amongst innumerable mounds six to eight feet in height, the space between them frequently so narrow as scarcely to admit our horses, and some of the men rode for upwards of a mile kneeling upon their saddles. These mounds were of hard yel- low clay, without a particle of rock of any kind, and along their bases, and in the narrow passages, flowers of every hue were growing. It was a most enchanting sight ; even the men noticed it, and more than one of our matter-of-fact people ex- claimed, beautiful, beautiful ! Mr. N. was here in his glory. He rode on ahead of the company, and cleared the passages with a trembling and eager hand, looking anxiously back at the approaching party, as though he feared it would come ere he had finished, and tread his lovely prizes under foot.

The distance through the ravine is about three miles. We then crossed several beautiful grassy knolls, and descending to the plain, struck the Platte again, and travelled along its bank. Here one of our men caught a young antelope, which he brought to the camp upon his saddle. It was a beautiful and most deli- cate little creature, and in a few days became so taniC as to re- main with the camp without being tied, and to drink, from a tin cup, the milk which our good missionaries spared from their own scanty meals. The men christened it " Zip Coo7i" and it soon became familiar with its name, running to them when called, and exhibiting many evidences of affection and attachment. It be- came a great favorite with every one. A little pannier of willows was made for it, which was packed on the back of a mule, and when the camp moved in the mornings, little Zip ran to his station beside his long-eared hack, bleating with impatience until some one came to assist him in mounting.

On the afternoon of the 31st, we came to green trees and bushes again, and the sight of them was more cheering than can

64 NARBATIVE OF A JOUEXEY

be conceived, except by persons who have travelled for weeks without beholding a green thing, save the grass under their feet. We encamped in the evening in a beautiful grove of cottonwood trees, along the edge of which ran the Platte, dotted as usual with numerous islands.

In the morning, Mr. N. and myself were up before the dawn, strolling through the umbrageous forest, inhaling the fresh, bracing air, and making the echoes ring with the report of our gun, as the lovely tenants of the grove flew by dozens before us. I think I never before saw so great a variety of birds within the same space. All were beautiful, and many of them quite new to me ; and after we had spent an hour amongst them, and my game bag was teeming with its precious freight, I was still loath to leave the place, lest I should not have procured specimens of the whole.

None but a naturalist can appreciate a naturalist's feelings — his delight amounting to ecstacy — when a specimen such as he has never before seen, meets his eye, and the sorrow and grief Avhich he feels when he is compelled to* tear himself from a spot abounding with all that he has anxiously and unremittingly sought for.

This was peculiarly my case upon this occasion. We had been loncp travelling over a sterile and barren tract, where the lovely denizens of the forest could not exist, and I had been daily scanning the great extent of the desert, for some little oasis such as I had now found ; here was my wish at length gratified, and yet the caravan would not halt for me ; I must turn my back upon the El Dorado of my fond anticipations, and hurry forward over the dreary wilderness which lay beyond.

What valuable and highly interesting accessions to science might not be made by a party, composed exclusively of natural- ists, on a journey through this rich and unexplored region ! The botanist, the geologist, the mamalogist, the ornithologist, and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIiVS, ETC. 05

the entomologist, would find a rich and almost inexhaustible field for the prosecution of their inquiries, and the result of such an expedition would be to add most materially to our knowledge of the wealth and resources of our country, to furnish us with new and important facts relative to its structure, organization, and natural productions, and to complete the fine native collec- tions in our already extensive museums.

On the 1st of June, we arrived at Laramie's fork of the Platte, and crossed it without much difficulty.

Here two of our " free trappers" left us for a summer " hunt" in the rugged Black Hills. These men joined our party at Inde- dependence, and have been travelling to this point with us for the benefit of our escort. Trading companies usually encourage these free trappers to join them, both for the strength which they add to the band, and that they may have the benefit of their generally good hunting qualities. Thus are both parties accom- modated, and no obligation is felt on either side.

I confess I felt somewhat sad when I reflected upon the pos- sible fate of the two adventurous men who had left us in the midst of a savage wilderness, to depend entirely upon their unassisted strength and hardihood, to procure the means of sub- sistence and repel the aggression of the Indian.

Their expedition will be fraught with stirring scenes, with peril and with strange adventure ; but they think not of this, and they care not for it. They are only two of the many scores who annually subject themselves to the same difficulties and dangers ; they see their friends return unscathed, and laden with rich and valuable furs, and if one or two should have perished by Indian rapacity, or fallen victims to their own daring and fool-hardy spirit, they mourn the loss of their brethren who have not returned, and are only the more anxious to pursue the same track in order to avenge them.

On the 2d, we struck a range of high and stony mountains,

9

66 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

called the Black Hills. The general aspect here, was dreary and forbidding ; the soil was intersected by deep and craggy fissures ; rock jutted over rock, and precipice frowned over precipice in frightful, and apparently endless, succession. Soon after we commenced the ascent, we experienced a change in the temperature of the air ; and towards mid-day, when we had arrived near the summit, our large blanket capeaus, — which in the morning had been discarded as uncomfortable, — were drawn tightly around us, and every man was shivering in his saddle as though he had an ague fit. The soil here is of a deep reddish or ferruginous hue, intermixed with green sand; and on the heights, pebbles of chalcedony and agate are abundant.

We crossed, in the afternoon, the last and steepest spur of this chain, winding around rough and stony precipices, and along the extreme verges of tremendous ravines, so dangerous looking that we were compelled to dismount and lead our horses.

On descending to the plain, we saw again the north fork of the Platte, and were glad of an opportunity of encamping. Our march to-day has been an unusually wearisome one, and many of our loose horses are bruised and lame.

7th. — The country has now become more level, but the prairie is barren and inhospitable looking to the last degree. The twisted, aromatic wormwood covers and extracts the strength from the burnt and arid soil. The grass is dry and brown, and our horses are suffering extremely for want of food. Occasion- ally, however, a spot of lovely green appears, and here we allow our poor jaded friends to halt, and roam without their riders, and their satisfaction and pleasure is expressed by many a joyous neigh, and many a heart-felt roll upon the verdant sward.

In the afternoon, we arrived at the " Red Butes," two or three brown-red cliffs, about two thousand feet in height. This is a remarkable point in the mountain route. One of these cliffs terminates a long, lofty, wooded ridge, which has bounded our

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 67

southern view for the past two days. The summits of the cliffs are covered with patches of snow, and the contrast of the dazzling white and brick-red produces a very pretty effect.

The next day, we left the Platte river, and crossed a wide, sandy desert, dry and desolate ; and on the 9th, encamped at noon on the banks of the Sweet-water. Here we found a large rounded mass of granite, about fifty feet high, called Rock Inde- pendence. Like the Red Butes, this rock is also a rather re- markable point in the route. On its smooth, perpendicular sides, we see carved the names of most of the mountain bourgeois, with the dates of their arrival. We observed those of the two Sublette's, Captains Bonneville, Serre, Fontinelle, &c., and after leaving our own, and taking a hearty, but hasty lunch in the shade of the rock, and a draught from the pure and limpid stream at its base, we pursued our journey.

The river is here very narrow, often only twelve or fifteen feet wide, shallow, and winding so much, that during our march, to-day, we crossed it several times, in order to pursue a straight course. The banks of the stream are clothed with the most luxuriant pasture, and our invaluable dumb friends appear per- fectly happy.

We saw here great numbers of a beautiful brown and white avocet, (the Recurvirostra americana of ornithologists.) These fine birds were so tame as to allow a very near approach, run- ning slowly before our party, and scarcely taking wing at the report of a gun. They frequent the marshy plains in the neigh- borhood of the river, and breed here.

On the 10th, about ninety miles to the west, we had a striking view of the Wind-river mountains. They are almost wholly of a dazzling whiteness, being covered thickly with snow, and the lofty peaks seem to blend themselves with the dark clouds which hang over them. This chain gives rise to the sources of the Missouri, the Colorado of the west, and Lewis' river of the

68 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

Columbia, and is the highest land on the continent of North America.

We saw, to-day, a small flock of the hairy slieep of the Rocky Mountains, the big horn of the hunters, [Ovis montana.) We exerted ourselves in vain to shoot them. They darted from us, and hid themselves amongst the inaccessible cliffs, so that none but a chamois hunter might pretend to reach them. Richardson says that he has frequently killed them, but lie admits that it is dangerous and wearisome sport ; and when good beef is to be found upon the plains, men are not anxious to risk their necks for a meal of mutton.

In the afternoon, one of our men had a somewhat perilous adventure with a grizzly bear. He saw the animal crouching his huge frame in some willows which skirted the river, and approaching on horseback to within twenty yards, fired upon him. The bear was only slightly wounded by the shot, and with a fierce growl of angry malignity, rushed from his cover, and gave chase. The horse happened to be a slow one, and for the distance of a half a mile, the race was hard contested ; the bear frequently approaching so near the terrified animal as to snap at his heels, while the equally terrified rider, — who had lost his hat at the start, — used whip and spur with the most frantic diligence, frequently looking behind, from an influence which he could not resist, at his rugged and determined foe, and shrieking in an agony of fear, " shoot him, shoot him ?" The man, who was one of the greenhorns, happened to be about a mile behind the main body, either from the indolence of his horse, or his own carelessness; but as he approached the party in his desperate flight, and his lugubrious cries reached the ears of the men in front, about a dozen of them rode to his assistance, and soon succeeded in diverting the attention of his pertinacious foe. After he had received the contents of all the guns, he fell, and was soon dispatched. The man rode in among his fellows, pale and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 69

haggard from overwrought fecUngs, and was probably effectually cured of a propensity for meddling with grizzly bears.

A small striped rattlesnake is abundant on these plains : — it is a different species from our common one at home, but is equally malisnant and venomous. The horses are often startled by them, and dart aside with intuitive fear when their note of warning is sounded in the path.

12i/t. — The plains of the Sweet-water at this point, — latitude 43° 6', longitude 110° 30', — are covered with little salt pools, the edo-es of which are encrusted with alkaline efflorescences, look- ing like borders of snow. The rocks in the vicinity are a loose, fine-grained sandstone, the strata nearly horizontal, and no organic remains have been discovered. We have still a view of the lofty Wind-river mountains on our right hand, and they have for some days served as a guide to determine our course. On the plain, we passed several huge rhomboidal masses of rock, standing alone, and looking, at a little distance, like houses with chimneys. The freaks of nature, as they are called, have often astonished us since we have been journeying in the wilderness. We have seen, moddled without art, representations of almost all the most stupendous works of man ; and how do the loftiest and most perfect creations of his wisdom and ingenuity sink into insignificance by the comparison. Noble castles, with turrets, embrazures, and loop holes, with the drawbridge in front, and the moat surrounding it : behind, the humble cottages of the subser- vient peasantry, and all the varied concomitants of such a scene, are so strikingly evident to the view, that it requires but little stretch of fancy to imagine that a race of antediluvian giants may here have swayed their iron sceptre, and left behind the crumbling palace and the tower, to tell of their departed glory.

On the 14th, we left the Sweet- water, and proceeded in a south-westerly direction to Sandy river, a branch of the Colorado of the west. We arrived here at about 9 o'clock in the evening.

70 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNF.Y

after a hard and most toilsome march for both man and beast. We found no water on the route, and not a single blade of grass for our horses. Many of the poor animals stopped before night, and resolutely refused to proceed ; and others with the remarkable sagacity, peculiar to them, left the track in defiance of those who drove and guided them, sought and found water, and spent the night in its vicinity. The band of missionaries, with their horses and horned cattle, halted by the way, and only about half the men of the party accompanied us to our encampment on Sandy. We were thus scattered along the route for several miles ; and if a predatory band of Indians had then found us, we should have fallen an easy prey.

The next morning by about 10 o'clock all our men and horses had joined us, and, in spite of the fatigues of the previous day, we were all tolerably refreshed, and in good spirits. Towards noon we got under way, and proceeded seven or eight miles down the river to a spot where we found a little poor pasture for our horses. Here we remained until the next morning, to recruit. I found here a beautiful new species of mocking bird,* which I shot and prepared. Birds are, however, generally scarce, and there is here very little of interest in any department of natural history. We are also beginning to suffer somewhat for food : buffalo are rarely seen, the antelopes are unusually shy, and the life of our little favorite, " Zip," has been several times menaced. I believe, however, that his keeper, from sheer fondness, would witness much greater suffering in the camp, ere he would con- sent to the sacrifice of his playful little friend.

IGth. — We observed a hoar frost and some thin ice, this morning at sunrise ; but at mid-day, the thermometer stood at 82°. We halted at noon, after making about fifteen miles, and dined. Saw large herds of buffalo on the plains of Sandy river,

♦ This is the mountain mocking binl, {Orpheus montanus,) described in the Appendix.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 71

o-razino- in every direction on the short and dry gi'ass. Domes- tic cattle would certainly starve here, and yet the bison exists, and even becomes fat ; a striking instance of the wonderful adaptation of Providence.

17^^. — We had yesterday a cold rain, the first which has fallen in our track for several weeks. Our vicinity to the high mountains of Wind river will perhaps account for it. To-day at noon, the mercury stood at 92° in the shade, but there being a strong breeze, we did not suffer from heat.

Our course was still down the Sandy river, and we are now looking forward with no little pleasure to a rest of two or more weeks at the mountain rendezvous on the Colorado. Here we expect to meet all the mountain companies who left the States last spring, and also the trappers who come in from various parts, with the furs collected by them during the previous year. All will be mirth and jollity, no doubt, but the grand deside- ratum with some of us, is to allow our horses to rest their tired limbs and exhausted strength on the rich and verdant plains of the Siskadee. At our camp this evening, our poor horses were compelled to fast as heretofore, there being absolutely nothing for them to eat. Some of the famished animals attempted to allay their insatiable cravings, by cropping the dry and bitter tops of the wormwood with which the plain is strewed.

We look forward to brighter days for them ere long ; soon shall they sport in the green pastures, and rest and plenty shall compensate for their toils and privations.

72 INAKUATIVK OF A JOURNEY

CHAPTER V.

,1rrival at the Colorado — The author in difficulty — Loss of a journal, and advice to travelling tyros— The rendezvous — SMotlei/ groups infesting it — Rum drinking, swearing, and other accomplishments in vogne — Description of the camp — Troid and grayling — Mundauce of game — Cock of the plains — Departure from the rendezvous — ^in accession to the band — ..^ renegado

Blackfoot chief Captain Stetuart and JMr. Jlshworth — JMuddy creek —

Jtfore carousing — Mundance of trout — Bear river — A hard day''s march — Volcanic country — IJ'hite claii pits and ''Beer spring" — Bare birds and com- monbirds — Mr. Thomas J\lc Kay — Rough and arid country — JMeeting -with Captain Bonneville's party — Captains Stewart and Jl'yeth's visit to the lodge of the "bald chief" — Blackfoot river — Adventure with a grizzly bear — Death of '• Zip JCoon^' — Young grizzly bears and buffalo calves — A Blackfoot Indian — Dangerous experiment of JMcKay — the three " Tc/ons" — Large trout — Departare of our Indian companions — Shoshone river — Site of " Fori Hall" — Preparations for a buffalo hunt.

June 19</t. — We arrived to-day on the Green river, Siskadee, or Colorado of the west, — a beautiful, clear, deep, and rapid stream, v/hich receives the waters of Sand}', — and encamped upon its eastern bank. After making a hasty meal, as it was yet early in the day, I sallied forth with my gun, and roamed about the neighborhood for several hours in quest of birds. On returning, towards evening, I found that the whole company had left the spot, the place being occupied only by a few hungry wolves, ravens, and magpies, the invariable gleaners of a for- saken camp.

I could not at first understand the meaning of all I saw. I thought the desertion strange, and was preparing to make the best of it, when a quick and joyful neigh sounded in the bushes near mc, and I recognized the voice of my favorite horse. I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 73

found him carefully tied, with the saddle, &c., lying near him. I had not the least idea of where the company had gone, but I knew that on the rich, alluvial banks of the river, the trail of the horses would be distinct enough, and I determined to place my dependence, in a great measure, upon the sagacity of my excel- lent dumb friend, satisfied that he would take me the right course. I accordingly mounted, and off we went at a speed which I found some difficulty in restraining. About half an hour's hard ridinw broua-ht us to the edsie of a laree branch of the stream, and I observed that the horses had here entered. I noticed other tracks lower down, but supposed them to have been made by the wanderings of the loose animals. Here then seemed the proper fording place, and with some little hesitation, I allowed my nag to enter the water ; we had proceeded but a few yards, however, when down he went off a steep bank, far beyond his depth. This was somewhat disconcerting; but there was but one thing to be done, so I turned my horse's head against the swift current, and we went snorting and blowing for the opposite shore. We arrived at length, though in a sadly wet and damaged state, and in a few minutes after, came in view of the new camp.

Captain W. explained to me that he had heard of good pasture here, and had concluded to move immediately, on account of the horses ; he informed me, also, that he had crossed the stream about fifty yards below the point where I had entered, and had, found an excellent ford. I did not regret my adventure, how- ever, and was congratulating myself upon my good fortune in arriving so seasonably, when, upon looking to my saddle, I dis- covered that my coat was missing. I had felt uncomfortably warm when I mounted, and had removed the coat and attached it carelessly to the saddle ; the rapidity of the current had diseng- aged it, and it was lost for ever. The coat itself was not of much

consequence after the hard service it had seen, but it contained the

10

74 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

second volume of my journal, a pocket compass, and other arti- cles of essential value to me. I would gladly have relinquished every thing the garment held, if I could but have recovered the book ; and although I returned to the river, and searched assiduously until night, and offered large rewards to the men, it could not be found.

The journal commenced with our arrival at the Black Hills, and contained some observations upon the natural productions of the country, which to me, at least, were of some importance; as well as descriptions of several new species of birds, and notes regarding their habits, &c., which cannot be replaced.

I would advise all tourists, who journey by land, never to carry their itineraries upon their persons; or if they do, let them be attached by a cord to the neck, and worn under the clothing. A convenient and safe plan would probably be, to have the book deposited in a close pocket of leather, made on the inner side of the saddle-wing ; it would thus be always at hand, and if a deep stream were to be passed, the trouble of drying the leaves would not be a very serious matter.

In consequence of remaining several hours in wet clothes, after being heated by exercise, I rose the next morning with so much pain, and stiffness of the joints, that I could scarcely move. But notwithstanding this, I was compelled to mount my horse with the others, and to ride steadily and rapidly for eight hours. I suffered intensely during this ride ; every step of my horse seemed to increase it, and induced constant sickness and retch- ing.

When we halted, I was so completely exhausted, as to require assistance in dismounting, and shortly after, sank into a state of insensibility from which I did not recover for several hours ^ Then a violent fever commenced, alternating for two whole days, with sickness and pain. I think I never was more unwell in my

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 75

life ; and if I had been at home, lying on a feather bed instead of the cold ground, I should probably have fancied myself an inva- lid for weeks.*

22d. — We are now lying at the rendezvous. W. Sublette, Captains Serre, Fitzpatrick, and other leaders, with their com- panies, are encamped about a mile from us, on the same plain, and our own camp is crowded with a heterogeneous assemblage of visitors. The principal of these are Indians, of the Ncz Perce, Banneck and Shoshone tribes, who come with the furs and peltries which they have been collecting at the risk of their lives during the past winter and spring, to trade for ammunition, trinkets, and " fire water." There is, in addition to these, a great variety of personages amongst us; most of them calling themselves white men, French-Canadians, half-breeds, &c., their color nearly as dark, and their manners wholly as wild, as the Indians with whom they constantly associate. These peo- ple, with their obstreperous mirth, their whooping, and howling, and quarrelling, added to the mounted Indians, who are con- stantly dashing into and through our camp, yelling like fiends, the barking and baying of savage wolf-dogs, and the incessant cracking of rifles and carbines, render our camp a perfect bed- lam. A more unpleasant situation for an invalid could scarcely be conceived. I am confined closely to the tent with illness, and and am compelled all day to listen to the hiccoughing jargon of drunken traders, the sacre and foutre of Frenchmen run wild, and the swearing and screaming of our own men, who are scarcely less savage than the rest, being heated by the detestable liquor which circulates freely among them.

It is very much to be regretted that at times like the present, there should be a positive necessity to allow the men as much rum as they can drink, but this course has been sanctioned and

* I am indchtcil to the kindness of my companion and friend, Frofessoi- Nuttajl, for supplying, in a great measure, tiic deficiency occasioned by the loss of my journal.

70 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

practised by all leaders of parties who have hitherto visited these regions, and reform cannot be thought of now. The principal liquor in use here is alcohol diluted with water. It is sold to the men at three dollars the pint ! Tobacco, of very inferior qual- ity, such as could be purchased in Philadelphia at about ten cents per pound, here brings two dollars ! and everything else in pro- portion. There is no coin in circulation, and these articles are therefore paid for by the independent mountain-men, in beaver skins, buffalo robes, &c. ; and those who are hired to the compa- nies, have them charged against their wages.

I was somewhat amused to-day by observing one of our newly hired men enter the tent, and order, with the air of a man who knew he would not be refused, twenty dollars' worth of rum, and ten dollars worth of sugar, to treat two of his companions who were about leaving the rendezvous !

30fA. — Our camp here is a most lovely one in every respect, and as several days have elapsed since v/e came, and I am con- valescent, I can roam about the country a little and enjoy it. The pasture is rich and very abundant, and it docs our hearts good to witness the satisfaction and comfort of our poor jaded horses. Our tents are pitched in a pretty little valley or indenta- tion in the plain, surrounded on all sides by low bluffs of yellow clay. Near us flows the clear deep water of the Siskadee, and beyond, on every side, is a wide and level prairie, interrupted only by some gigantic peaks of mountains and conical butes in the distance. The river, here, contains a great number of large trout, some grayling, and a small narrow-mouthed white fish, resembling a herring. They are all frequently taken with the hook, and, the trout particularly, afford excellent sport to the lovers of angling. Old Izaac Walton would be in his glory here, and the precautio^nary measures which he so strongly recommends in approaching a trout stream, he would not need to practise, as the fish is not

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 77

shy, and bites quickly and eagerly at a grasshopper or min- now.

Buffalo, antelopes, and elk are abundant in the vicinity, and we are therefore living well. We have seen also another kind of game, a beautiful bird, the size of a half grown turkey, called the cock of the plains, ( Tetrao uropkasianus.) We first met with this noble bird on the plains, about two days' journey east of Green river, in flocks, or packs, of fifteen or twenty, and so ex- ceedingly tame as to allow an approach to within a few feet, run- ning before our horses like domestic fowls, and not unfrequently hopping under their bellies, while the men amused themselves by striking out their feathers with their riding whips. When we first saw them, the temptation to shoot was irresistible ; the guns were cracking all around us, and the poor grouse falling in every direction ; but what was our disappointment, when, upon roasting them nicely before the fire, we found them so strong and bitter as not to be eatable. From this time the cock of the plains was allowed to I'oam free and unmolested, and as he has failed to please our palates, we are content to admire the beauty of his plumage, and the grace and spirit of his atti- tudes.

July 2d. — We bade adieu to the rendezvous this morning; packed up our moveables, and journied along the bank of the river. Our horses are very much recruited by the long rest and good pasture which they have enjoyed, and, like their mas- ters, are in excellent spirits.

During our stay at the rendezvous, many of us looked anx- iously for letters from our families, which we expected by the later caravans, but we were all disappointed. For myself, T have received but one since I left my home, but this has been my so- lace through many along and dreary journey. Many a time, while pacing my solitary round as night-guard in the wilderness, have I

78

NARRATIVE OP A JOtJRNEY

sat myself down, and stirring up the dying embers of the camp fire, taken the precious little memento from my bosom, undrawn the string of the leathern sack which contained it, and poured over the dear characters, till my eyes would swim with sweet, but sad recollections, then kissing the inanimate paper, return it to its sanctuary, tighten up my pistol belt, shoulder my gun, and with a quivering voice, swelling the ''alVsxcelV upon the night breeze, resume my slow and noiseless tramp around my sleeping companions.

Many of our men have left us, and joined the returning compa- nies, but we have had an accession to our party of about thirty Indians ; Flat-heads, Nez Perces, &c., with their wives, children, and dogs. Without these our camp would be small ; they will probably travel with us until we arrive on Snake river, and pass over the country where the most danger is to be apprehended from their enemies, the Black-feet.

Some of the women in this party, particularly those of the Nez Perce nation, are rather handsome, and their persons are decked off in truly savage taste. Their dresses of deer skin are profusely ornamented with beads and porcupine quills ; huge strings of beads are hung around their necks, and their saddles are garnished with dozens of little hawk's bells, which jingle and make music for them as they travel along. Several of these women have little children tied to their backs, sewed up papoose fashion, only the head being seen; as they jolt along the road, we not un- frequently hear their voices ringing loud and shrill above the music of the bells. Other little fellows who have ceased to re- quire the maternal contributions, are tied securely on other horses, and all their care seems to be to sleep, which they do most perti- naciously in spite of jolting, noise, and clamor. There is among this party, a Blackfoot chief, a renegado from his tribe, who sometime since killed the principal chief of his nation, and was

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 79

in consequence under the necessity of absconding. He has now joined the party of his hereditary foes, and is prepared to fight against his own people and kindred. He is a fine, warlike looking fellow, and although he takes part in all the war-songs, and sham-battles of his adopted brothers, and whoops, and howls as loud as the best of them, yet it is plain to perceive that he is distrusted and disliked. All men, whether, civilized or savage, honorable, or otherwise, detest and scorn a traitor !

We were joined at the rendezvous by a Captain Stewart, an English gentleman of noble family, who is ti-avelling for amuse- ment, and in search of adventure. He has already been a year in the mountains, and is now desii'ous of visiting the lower coun- try, from which he may probably take passage to England by sea. Another Englishman, a young man, named Ashworth, also attached himself to our party, for the same purpose.

Our course lay along the bank of Ham's fork, through a hilly and stony, but not a rocky country ; the willow flourished on the margin of the stream, and occasionally the eye was re- lieved, on scanning the plain, by a pretty clump of cottonwood or poplar trees. The cock of the plains is very abundant hei'e, and our pretty little summer yellow bird, (Sylvia cestiva,) one of our most common birds at home, is our constant companion. How natural sounds his little monotonous stave, and how it seems to carry us back to the dear scenes for which we have exchanged the wild and pathless wilderness !

4<7j. — We left Ham's fork this morning, — now diminished to a little purling brook, — and passed across the hills in a north-west- erly direction for about twenty miles, when we struck Muddy creek. This is a branch of Bear river, which empties into the Salt lake, or "lake Bonneville," as it has been lately named, for what reason I know not. Our camp here, is a beautiful and most de- lightful one. A large plain, like a meadow, of rich, waving

80 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

grass, with a lovely little stream running through the midst, high hills, capped with shapely cedars on two sides, and on the others an immense plain, with snow clad mountains in the distance. This being a memorable day, the liquor kegs were opened, and the men allowed an abundance. We, therefore, soon had a renewal of the coarse and brutal scenes of the rendezvous. Some of the bacchanals called for a volley in honor of the day, and in obedience to the order, some twenty or thirty " happy" ones reeled into line, with their muzzles directed to every point of the compass, and when the word " fire" was given, we who were not " happy" had to lie flat upon the ground to avoid the bullets which were careering through the camp.

In this little stream, the trout are more abundant than we have yet seen them. One of our sober men took, this afternoon, upwards of thirty pounds. These fish would probably average fifi;een or sixteen inches in length, and weigh three-quarters of a pound ; occasionally, however, a much larger one is seen.

bth. — We travelled about twenty miles this day, over a country abounding in lofty hills, and early in the afternoon arrived on Bear river, and encamped. This is a fine stream of about one hundred and fifty feet in width, with a moveable, sandy bottom. The grass is dry and poor, the willow abounds along the banks, and at a distance marks the course of the stream, which meanders through an alluvial plain of four to six miles in width. At the distance of about one hundred miles from this point, the Bear river enters the Salt lake, a large body of salt water, with- out outlet, in which there is so large an island as to afford streams of fresh water for goats and other animals living upon it.

On the next day we crossed the river, which we immediately left, to avoid a great bend, and passed over some lofty ranges of hills and through the rugged and stony valleys between them ; the wind was blowing a gale right ahead, and clouds of dust were flying in our faces, so that at the end of the day, our coun-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 81

tenances were disguised as they were on the plains of the Platte. The march to-day has been a most laborious and fatiguing one both for man and beast ; we have travelled steadily from morning till night, not stopping at noon ; our poor horses' feet are becoming very much worn and sore, and when at length we struck Bear river again and encamped, the wearied animals re- fused to eat, stretching themselves upon the ground and falling asleep from very exhaustion.

Trout, grayling, and a kind of char are very abundant here — the first very large. The next day we travelled but twelve miles, it being impossible to urge our worn-out horses farther. Near our camp this evening we found some large gooseberries and currants, and made a hearty meal upon them. They were to us peculiarly delicious. We have lately been living entirely upon dried buffalo, without vegetables or bread ; even this is now failing us, and we are upon short allowance. Game is very scarce, our hunters cannot find any, and our Indians have killed but two buffalo for several days. Of this small stock they would not spare us a mouthful, so it is probable we shall soon be hungry.

The alluvial plain here presents many unequivocal evidences of volcanic action, being thickly covered with masses of lava, and high walls and "regular columns of basalt appear in many places. The surrounding country is composed, as usual, of high hills and narrow, stony valleys between them ; the hills are thickly covered with a growth of small cedars, but on the plain, nothing flourishes but the everlasting wormwood, or sage as it is here called. '

Our encampment on the 8th, was near what are called the

" White-clay pits," still on Bear river. The soil is soft chalk,

white and tenacious ; and in the vicinity are several springs

of strong supercarbonated water, which bubble up with all the

activity of artificial fountains. The taste was very agreeable

11

fi2 NAURATIVE OF A JOURNEY

and refreshing, resembling Saratoga water, but not so saline. The whole plain to the hills, is covered with little mounds formed of calcareous sinter, having depressions on their summits, from which once issued streams of water. The extent of these erup- tions, at some former period, must have been very great. At about half a mile distant, is an eruptive thermal spring of the temperature of 90°, and near this is an opening in the earlh from which a stream of gas issues without water.

In a thicket of common red cedars, near our camp, I found, and procured several specimens of two beautiful and rare birds which I had never before seen — the Lewis' woodpecker and Clark's crow, [Picus torquatus and Corvus columbianus.)

We remained the whole of the following day in camp to recruit our horses, and a good opportunity was thus afforded me of inspecting all the curiosities of this wonderful region, and of procuring some rare and valuable specimens of birds. Three of our hunters sallied forth in pursuit of several buffalo whose tracks had been observed by some of the men, and we were overjoyed to see them return in the evening loaded with the meat and marrow bones of two animals which they had killed.

We saw here the whooping crane, and white pelican, numerous ; and in the small streams near the bases of the hills, the common canvass-back duck, shoveller, and black duck, (Anas obscura,) were feeding their voung.

We were this evening visited by Mr. Thomas McKay,* an Indian trader of some note in the mountains. He is a step-son of Dr. McLaughlin, the chief factor at Fort Vancouver, on the

• This is the son of Mr. Alexander McKay, who was massacred bj- the Indians of the N. W. Coast on board the ship " Tonquin," an account of which is given in Irving's " Astoria." I have often heard McKay speak of the tragical fate of his parent, and with the bitter animosity and love of revenge inherited from his Indian mother, I have heard him declare that he will yet be known on the coast as the avenger of blood.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 83

Columbia, and the leader of a party of Canadians and Indians, now on a hunt in the vicinity. This party is at present in our rear, and Mr. McKay has come ahead in order to join us, and keep us company until we reach Portneuf river, where we intend building a fort.

10^/t. — We were moving early this morning : our horses were very much recruited, and seemed as eager as their masters to travel on. It is astonishing how soon a horse revives, and overcomes the lassitude consequent upon fatigue, when he is allowed a day's rest upon tolerable pasture. Towards noon, however, after encountering the rough lava-strewn plain for a few hours, they be- came sufficiently sobered to desist from all unnecessary curvetting and prancing, and settled down into a very matter-of-fact trudge^ better suited to the country and to the work which they have yet to do.

Soon after v/e left, we crossed one of the high and stony hills by which our late camp is suri'ounded ; then making a gentle descent, we came to a beautiful and very fertile plain. This is, however, very different from the general face of the country ; in a short time, after passing over the rich prairie, the same dry aridity and depauperation prevailed, which is almost universal west of the mountains. On the wide plain, we observed large sunken spots, some of them of great extent, surrounded by walls of lava, indicating the existence, at some very ancient date, of active craters. These eruptions have probably been ante- diluvian, or have existed at a period long anterior to the present order of creation. On the side of the hills are high walls of lava and basaltic dykes, and many large and dark caves are formed by the juxtaposition of the enormous masses.

Early in the afternoon we passed a large party of white men, encamped on the lava plain near one of the small streams. Horses were tethered all around, and men were lolling about playing games of cards, and loitering through the camp, as

84 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

though at a loss for employment. We soon ascertained it to be Captain Bonneville's company resting after the fatigues of a long march. Mr. Wyeth and Captain Stewart visited the lodge of the " bald chief," and our party proceeded on its march. The difficulties of the route seemed to increase as we progressed, until at length we found ourselves wedged in among huge blocks of lava and columns of basalt, and were forced, most reluctantly, to retrace our steps for several miles, over the impediments which we had hoped we were leaving for ever behind us. We had nearly reached Bonneville's camp again, when Captains Wyeth and Stewart joined us, and we struck into another path which proved more tolerable. Wyeth gave us a rather amusing account of his visit to the worthy captain. He and Captain Stewart were received very kindly by the veteran, and every delicacy that the lodge affijrded was brought forth to do them honor. Among the rest, was some methiglen or diluted alcohol sweetened with honey, which the good host had concocted ; this dainty beverage was set before them, and the thirsty guests were not slow in taking advantage of the invitation so obligingly given. Draught after draught of the precious liquor disappeared down the throats of the visiters, until the anxious, but still com- plaisant captain, began to grow uneasy.

" I beg you will help yourselves, gentlemen," said the host, with a smile wliich he intended to express the utmost urbanity, but which, in spite of himself, had a certain ghastliness about it.

" Thank you, sir, we will do so freely," replied the two worthies, and away went the methiglen as before.

Cup after cup was drained, until the hollow sound of the keg indicated that its contents were nearly exhausted, when the company rose, and thanking the kind host for his noble enter- tainment, were bowed out of the tent with all the polite formality which the accomplished captain knows so well how to assume.

Towards evening, we struck Blackfoot river, a small, sluggish,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 85

stagnant stream, heading with the waters of a rapid rivulet passed yesterday, which empties into the Bear river. This stream passes in a north-westerly direction through a valley of about six miles in width, covered with quagmires, through which we had great difficulty in making our way. As we approached our encampment, near a small grove of willows, on the margin of the river, a tremendous grizzly bear rushed out upon us. Our horses ran wildly in every direction, snorting with terror, and became nearly unmanageable. Several balls were instantly fired into him, but they only seemed to increase his fury. After spending a moment in rending each wound, (their invariable practice,) he selected the person who happened to be nearest, and darted after him, but before he proceeded far, he was sure to be stopped again by a ball from another quarter. In this way he was driven about amongst us for perhaps fifteen minutes, at times so near some of the horses, that he received several severe kicks from them. One of the pack horses was fairly fastened upon by the terrific claws of the brute, and in the terrified animal's efforts to escape the dreaded gripe, the pack and saddle were broken to pieces and disengaged. One of our mules also lent him a kick in the head while pursuing it up an adjacent hill, which sent him rolling to the bottom. Flerc he v/as finally brought to a stand.

The poor animal was so completely surrounded by enemies that he became bewildered. He raised himself upon his hind feet, standing almost erect, his mouth partly open, and from his protruding tongue the blood fell fast in drops. While in this position, he received about six more balls, each of which made him reel. At last, as in complete desperation, he dashed into the water, and swam several yards with astonishing strength and agility, the guns cracking at him constantly; but he was not to proceed far. Just then, Richardson, who had been absent, rode up, and fixing his deadly aim upon him, fired a ball into the back

86 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

of his head, which killed him instantly. The strength of four men was required to drag the ferocious brute from the water, and upon examining his body, he was found completely riddled ; there did not appear to be four inches of his shaggy person, from the hips upward, that had not received a ball. There must have been at least thirty shots made at him, and probably few missed him; yet such was his tenacity of life, that I have no doubt he would have succeeded in crossing the river, but for the last shot in the brain. He would probably weigh, at the least, six hundred poundsj and was about the height of an ordinary steer. The spread of the foot, laterally, was ten inches, and the claws measured seven inches in length. This animal was remarkably lean ; when in good condition, he would, doubtless, much exceed in weight ^ estimate I have given. Richardson, and two other hunters, in company, killed two in the course of the afternoon, and saw several others.

This evening, our pet antelope, poor little " Zip Koon," met with a serious accident. The mule on which he rode, got her feet fastened in some lava blocks, and, in the struggle to extri- cate herself, fell violently on the pointed fragments. One of the delicate legs of our favorite was broken, and he was otherwise so bruised and hurt, that, from sheer mercy, we ordered him killed. We had hoped to be able to take him to the fort which we intend building on the Portneuf river, where he could have been comfortably cared for. This is the only pet we have had in the camp, which continued with us for more than a few days. We have sometimes taken young grizzly bears, but these little fellows, even when not larger than puppies, are so cross and snappish, that it is dangerous to handle them, and we could never become attached to any animal so ungentle, and therefore young " Ephraim," (to give, him his mountain cognomen,) gene- rally meets with but little mercy from us when his evil genius throws him in our way. The young buffalo calf is also very

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 87

often taken, and if removed from the mother, and out of sight of the herd, he will follow the camp as steadily as a dog ; but his propensity for keeping close to the horse's heels, often gets him into trouble, as he meets with more kicks than caresses from them. He is considered an interloper, and treated accordingly. The bull calf of a month or two old, is sometimes rather difficult to manage; he shows no inclination to follow the camp like the younger ones, and requires to be dragged along by main force. At such times, he watches for a good opportunity, and before his captor is aware of what is going on, he receives a butt from the clumsy head of the intractable little brute, which, in most cases, lays him sprawling upon the ground.

I had an adventure of this sort a few days before we arrived at the rendezvous. I captured a large bull calf, and with con- siderable difficulty, managed to drag him into the camp, by means of a rope noosed around his neck, and made fast to the high pommel of my saddle. Here I attached him firmly by a cord to a stake driven into the ground, and considered him secure. In a few minutes, however, he succeeded in breaking his fastenings, and away he scoured out of the camp. I lost no time in giving chase, and although I fell flat into a ditch, and afforded no litttle amusement to our people thereby, I soon over- took him, and was about seizing the stranded rope, which was still around his neck, when, to my surprise, the little animal showed fight ; he came at me with all his force, and dashing his head into my breast, bore me to the ground in a twinkling. I, however, finally succeeded in recapturing him, and led and pushed him back into the camp; but I could make nothing of him ; his stubbornness would neither yield to severity or kind- ness, and the next morning I loosed him and let him go.

Wth. — On ascending a hill this morning. Captain Wyeth, who was at the head of the company, suddenly espied an Indian stealing cautiously along the summit, and evidently endeavoring

88 NARHATIVE OF A JOURNEY

to conceal himself. Captain W. directed the attention of McKay to the crouching figure, who, the moment he caught a glimpse of him, exclaimed, in tones of joyful astonishment, " a Blackfoot,

by !" and clapping spurs to his horse, tore up the hill with

the most frantic eagerness, with his rifle poised in his hand ready for a shot. The Indian disappeared over the hill like a lightning flash, and in another second, McKay was also out of sight, and we could hear the rapid clatter of his horse's hoofs in hot pursuit after the fugitive. Several of the men, with myself, followed after at a rapid gait, with, however, a very different object. Mine was simply curiosity, mingled with some anxiety, lest the wily Indian should lead our impetuous friend into an ambushment, and his life thus fall a sacrifice to his temerity. When we arrived at the hill-top, McKay \^as gone, but we saw the track of his horse passing down the side of it, and we traced him into a dense thicket about a quarter of a mile distant. Several of our hardy fellows entered this thicket, and beat about for some time in various directions, but nothing could they see either of McKay or the Indian. In the mean time, the party passed on, and my apprehensions were fast settling into a cer- tainty that our bold companion had found the death he had so rashly courted, when I was inexpressibly relieved by hearing the crackling of the bushes near, which was immediately followed by the appearance of the missing man himself

He was in an excessively bad humor, and grumbled audibly about the " Blackfoot rascal getting off in that cowardly fashion," without at all heeding the congratulations which I was showering upon him for his almost miraculous escape. He was evidently not aware of having been peculiarly exposed, and was regretting, like the hunter who loses his game by a sudden shift of wind, that his human prey had escaped him.

The appearance of this Indian is a proof that others are lurk- ing near ; and if the party happens to be large, they may give us

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 89

some trouble. We are now in a part of the country which is almost constantly infested by the Blackfeet; we have seen for several mornings past, the tracks of moccasins around our camp, and not unfrcquently the prints of unshod horses, so that we know we are narrowly watched ; and the slumbering of one of the guard, or the slightest appearance of carelessness in the con- duct of the camp, may bring the savages whooping upon us like demons.

Our encampment this evening is on one of the head branches of the Blackfoot river, from which we can see the three remark- able conic summits known by the name of the " Three Bates''' or " Tetons.^^ JNfear these flows the Portneuf, or south branch of Snake or Lewis' river. Here is to be another place of rest, and we look forward to it with pleasure both on our own account and on that of our wearied horses.

12th. — In the afternoon we made a camp on Ross' creek, a small branch of Snake river. The pasture is better than we have had for two weeks, and the stream contains an abundance of ex- cellent trout. Some of these are enormous, and very fine eating. They bite eagerly at a grasshopper or minnow, but the largest fish are shy, and the sportsman requires to be carefully concealed in order to take them. We have here none of the fine tackle jointed rods, reels, and silkworm gut of the accomplished city sportsman ; we have only a piece of common cord, and a hook seized on with half-hitches, with a willow rod cut on the banks of the stream ; but with this rough cquij)mcnt we take as many trout as we wish, and who could do more, even with all the cu- rious contrivances of old Izaac Walton or Christopher North ?

The band of Indians which kept company with us from the rendezvous, left; us yesterday, and fell back to join Captain Bon- neville's party, which is travelling on behind. We do not regret

their absence ; for although they added strength to our band, and

12

90 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

would have been useful in case of an attack from Blackfeet, yet they added very materially to our cares, and gave us some trouble by their noise, confusion, and singing at night.

On the 14th, we travelled but about six miles, when a halt was called, and we pitched our tents upon the banks of the noble Shoshone or Snake river. It seems now, as though we were really nearing the western extremity of our vast continent. We are now on a stream which pours its waters directly into the Columbia, and we can form some idea of the great Oregon river by the beauty and magnitude of its tributary. Soon after we stopped, Captain W., Richardson, and two others left us to seek for a suitable spot for building a fort, and in the evening they returned with the information that an excellent and convenient place had been pitched upon, about five miles from our present encampment. On their route, they killed a buffalo, which they left at the site of the fort, suitably protected from wolves, &c. This is very pleasing intelligence to us, as our stock of dried meat is almost exhausted, and for several days past we have been depending almost exclusively upon fish.

The next morning we moved early, and soon arrived at our destined camp. This is a fine large plain on the south side of the Portneuf, with an abundance of excellent grass and rich soil. The opposite side of the river is thickly covered with large timber of Cottonwood and willow, with a dense undergrowth of the same, intermixed with service-berry and currant bushes.

Most of the men were immediately put to work, felling trees, making horse-pens, and preparing the various requisite materials for the building, while others were ordered to get themselves in readiness for a start on the back track, in order to make a hunt, and procure meat for the camp. To this party I have attached myself, and all my leisure time to-day is employed in preparing for it.

Our number will be twelve, and each man will lead a mule with

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 91

a pack-saddle, in order to bring in the meat that we may kill. Richardson is the principal of this party, and Mr. Ashworth has also consented to join us, so that I hope we shall have an agreea- ble trip. There will be but little hard work to perform; our men are mostly of the best, and no rum or cards are al- lowed.

92 NARKATIVK OF A JOURNEV

CHAPTER VI.

Departure of the hunting camp — A false alarm — Blackfeet Indians — their ferocity — Requisites of a mountain-man — Good fare, and good appetites — An experiment — Grizzly bears — Visit of a JVe; Perci lndia7i — Adventure with a gnzzlij hear — Hunter's anecdotes — Homeward bou7id — Accident from gun- powder— Arrival at " Fort Hall" — 1 salute — Emaciation of some of the party from lo',u diet— Mr. McKay's company — Buffalo lodges— Progress of the building — Effects of judicious training— Indian -worship — A " Camp Meeting" — Mr. Jason Lee, a favorite— A fatal accident and a burial.

July 16th. — Our little hunting party of twelve men, rode out of the encampment this morning, at a brisk trot, which gait was continued until we arrived at our late encampment on Ross' creek, having gone about thirty miles. Here we came to a halt, and made a hearty meal on a buffalo which we had just killed. While we were eating, a little Welshman, whom we had stationed outside our camp to watch the horses, came running to us out of breath, crying in a terrified falsetto. ^^ Indians, Indians.'^'' In a moment every man was on his feet, and his gun in his hand ; the horses were instantly surrounded, by Richardson's direction, and driven into the bushes, and we were preparing ourselves for the coming struggle, when our hunter, peering out of the thick copse to mark the approach of the enemy, burst at once into a loud laugh, and muttering something about a Welsh coward, stepped boldy from his place of concealment, and told us to follow him. When we had done so, we perceived the band approaching steadily, and it seemed warily, along the path directly in our front. Richardson said something to them in an unknown tongue, which immediately brought several of the strangers to-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 93

wards us at full gallop. One of these was a Canadian, as his peculiar physiognomy, scarlet sash, and hat ribbons of gaudy colors, clearly proved, and the two who accompanied him, were Indians. These people greeted us with great cordiality, the more so, perhaps, as they had supposed, on seeing the smoke from our fire, that we were a band of Blackfeet, and that, there- fore, there was no alternative for them but to fight. While we were conversing, the whole party, of about thirty, came up, and it needed but a glance at the motley group of tawdrily dressed hybrid boys, and blanketted Indians, to convince us that this was McKay's company travelling on to join him at Fort Hall.

They inquired anxiously about their leader, and seemed pleased on being informed that he was so near ; the prospect of a few day's rest at the fort, and the regale by which their arrival was sure to be commemorated, acted upon the spirits of the mer- curial young half-breeds, like the potent liquor which they ex- pected soon to quaff in company with the kindred souls who were waiting to receive them.

They all seemed hungry, and none required a second invita- tion to join us at our half finished meal. The huge masses of savoury fleece meat, hump-ribs, and side-ribs disappeared, and were polished with wonderful dispatch ; the Canadians ate like half famished wolves, and the sombre Indians, although slower and more sedate in their movements, were very little behind their companions in the agreeable process of mastication.

The next day we rode thirty-four miles, and encamped on a pretty little stream, fringed with willows, running through the midst of a large plain. Within a few miles, we saw a small herd of buffalo, and six of our company left the camp for a hunt. In an hour two of them returned, bringing the meat of one ani- mal. We all commenced work immediately, cutting it in thin slices, and hanging it on the bushes to dry. By sundown, our work was finished, and soon after dark, the remaining hunters

94 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEiT

came in, bringing the best parts of three more. This will give us abundance of work for to-morrow, when the hunters will go out again.

Richardson and Sansbury mention having seen several Black- feet Indians to-day, who, on observing them, ran rapidly away, and, as usual, concealed themselves in the bushes. We are now certain that our worst enemies are around us, and that they are only waiting for a favorable time and opportunity to make an attack. They are not here for nothing, and have probably been dogging us, and reconnoitering our outposts, so that the greatest caution and watchfulness will be required to prevent a surprise. We are but a small company, and there may be at this very moment hundreds within hearing of our voices.

The Blackfoot is a sworn and determined foe to all white men, and he has often been heard to declare that he would rather hang the scalp of a " pale face" to his girdle, than kill a buffalo to prevent his starving.

The hostility of this dreaded tribe is, and has for years been, proverbial. They are, perhaps, the only Indians who do not fear the power, and who refuse to acknowledge the superiority of the white man; and though so often beaten in conflicts with them, even by their own mode of warfare, and generally with numbers vastly inferior, their indomitable courage and per- severance still urges them on to renewed attempts ; and if a single scalp is taken, it is considered equal to a great victory, and is hailed as a presage of future and more extensive triumphs- It must be acknowledged, however, that this determined hos- tility docs not originate solely in savage malignity, or an abstract thirst for the blood of white men ; it is fomented and kept alive from year to year by incessant provocatives on the part of white hunters, trappers, and traders, who are at best but in- truders on the rightful domains of the red man of the wilderness.

95

Many a night have I sat at the camp-fire, and listened to the recital of bloody and ferocious scenes, in which the narrators were the actors, and the poor Ijidians the victims, and I have felt my blood tingle with shame, and boil with indignation, to hear the diabolical acts applauded by those for whose amusement they were related. Many a precious villain, and merciless marauder, was made by these midnight tales of rapine, murder, and rob- bery ; many a stripling, in whose tender mind the seeds of virtue and honesty had never germinated, burned for an opportunity of loading his pack-horse with the beaver skins of some solitary Blackfoot trapper, who was to be murdered and despoiled of the property he had acquired by weeks, and perhaps months, of toil and danger.

Acts of this kind are by no means unfrequent, and the subjects of this sort of atrocity are not "always the poor and despised Indians : white men themselves often fall by the hands of their companions, when by good fortune and industry they have succeeded in loading their horses with fur. The fortunate trapper is treacherously murdered by one who has eaten from the same dish and drank from the same cup, and the homicide returns triumphantly to his camp with his ill gotten property. If his companion be inquired for, the answer is that some days ago they parted company, and he will probably soon join them.

The poor man never returns — no one goes to search for him — he is soon forgotten, or is only remembered by one more steadfast than the rest, who seizes with avidity the first opportunity which is afforded, of murdering an unoffending Indian in revenge for the death of his friend.

On the 20th, we moved our camp to a spot about twelve miles distant, where Richardson, with two other hunters, stopped yesterday and spent the night. They had killed several buffalo here, and were busily engaged in preparing the meat when we joined them. They gave us a meal of excellent cow's flesh, and

96 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

I thought I never had eaten any thing so delicious. Hitherto we have had only the bulls which are at this season poor and rather unsavory, but now we are feasting upon the best food in the world.

It is true we have nothing but meat and good cold water, but this is all we desire : we have excellent appetites, no dyspepsia, clear heads, sharp ears, and high spirits, and what more does a man require to make him happy ?

We rise in the morning with the sun, stir up our fires, and roast our breakfast, eating usually from one to two pounds of meat at a morning meal. At ten o'clock we lunch, dine at two, sup at five, and lunch at eight, and during the night-watch com- monly provide ourselves with two or three " hump-ribs" and a marrow bone, to furnish employment and keep the drowsy god at a distance.

Our present camp is a beautiful one. A rich and open plain of luxuriant grass, dotted with buffalo in all directions, a high picturesque hill in front, and a lovely stream of cold mountain v/ater flowing at our feet. On the borders of this stream, as usual, is a dense belt of willows, and under the shade of these we sit and work by day, and sleep soundly at night. Our meat is now dried upon scaffolds constructed of old timber which we find in great abundance upon the neighboring hill. We keep a fire going constantly, and when the meat is sufficiently dried, it is piled on the ground, preparatory to being baled.

21, s/. — The buffalo appear even more numerous than when we came, and much less suspicious than common. The bulls fre- quently pass slowly along within a hundred yards of us, and toss their shaggy and frightful looking heads as though to warn us- against attacking or approaching them.

Towards evening, to-day, I walked out with my gun, in the direction of one of these prowling monsters, and the ground in his vicinity being covered densely with bushes, I determined to

ACROSS THE ROCKY 3I0UNTAINS, ETC. 97

approach as near him as possible, in order to try the efficacy of a ball planted directly in the centre of the forehead. I had heard of this experiment having been tried without success, and I wished to ascertain the truth for myself.

" Taking the wind" of the animal, as it is called, (that is, keeping to leeward, so that my approach could not be perceived by communicating a taint to the air,) I crawled on my hands and knees with the utmost caution towards my victim. The un- wieldy brute was quietly and unsuspiciously cropping the herb- age, and I had arrived to within ten feet of him, when a sudden flashing of the eye, and an impatient motion, told me that I was observed. He raised his enormous head, and looked around him, and so truly terrible and grand did he appear, that I must con- fess, (in your ear,) I felt awed, almost frightened, at the task I had undertaken. But I had gone too far to retreat; so, raising my gun, I took deliberate aim at the bushy centre of the fore- head, and fired. The monster shook his head, pawed up the earth with his hoofs, and making a sudden spring, accompanied by a terrific roar, turned to make his escape. At that instant, the ball from the second barrel penetrated his vitals, and he measured his huge length upon the ground. In a few seconds he was dead. Upon examining the head, and cutting away the enormous mass of matted hair and skin which enveloped the skull, my large bullet of twenty to the pound, was found com- pletely flattened against the bone, having carried with it, through the interposing integument, a considerable portion of the coarse hair, but without producing the smallest fracture. I was satis- fied ; and taking the tongue, (the hunter's perquisite,) I returned to my companions.

This evening the roaring of the bulls in the gang near us is

terrific, and these sounds are mingled with the howling of large

packs of wolves, which regularly attend upon them, and the hoarse

screaming of hundreds of ravens flying over head. The dreaded

13

98 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

grizzly bear is also quite common in this neighborhood ; two have just been seen in some bushes near, and they visit our camp al- most every night, attracted by the piles of meat which are heaped all around us. The first intimation we have of his approach is a great grunt or snort, unlike any sound I ever heard, but'much more querulous than fierce ; then we hear the scraping and tramping of his huge feet, and the snuffing of his nostrils, as the savory scent of the meat is wafted to them. He approaches nearer and nearer, with a stealthy and fearful pace, but just as he is about to accomplish the object of his visit, he suddenly stops short ; the snuffing is repeated at long and trembling intervals, and if the slightest motion is then made by one of the party, away goes ^'■Ephraim,^'' like a cowardly burglar as he is, and we hear no more of him that night.

On the 23d a Nez Perce Indian, belonging to Mr. McKay's company, visited us. He is one of several hunters who have been sent from the fort on the same errand as ourselves. This was a middle aged man, with a countenance in which shrewd- ness or cunning, and complaisance, appeared singularly blended. But his person was a perfect wonder, and would have served ad- mirably for the study of a sculptor. The form was perfection itself The lower limbs were entirely naked, and the upper part of the person was only covered by a short checked shirt. His blanket lay by his side as he sat with us, and was used only while moving. I could not but admire the ease with which the man squatted on his haunches immediately as he alighted, and the position both of body and limbs was one that, probably, no white man unaccustomed to it, could have endured for many minutes together. The attitude, and indeed the whole figure was graceful and easy in the extreme; and on criticising his per- son, one was forcibly reminded of the Apollo Belvidere of Canova. His only weapons were a short bow and half a dozen arrows, a scalping knife and tomahawk ; with these, however, weak and in-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 99

efficient as they seemed, he had done good service, every arrow being smeared with blood to the feathers. He told Richardson that he and his three or four companions had killed about sixty buffalo, and that now, having meat enough, they intended to re- turn to their camp to-morrow.

This afternoon I observed a large flock of wild geese passing over ; and upon watching them, perceived that they alighted about a mile and a half from us, where I knew there was a lake. Con- cluding that a little change of diet might be agreeable, I sallied forth with my gun across the plain in quest of the birds. I soon arrived at a thick copse of willow and currant bushes, which skirted the water, and was about entering, when I heard a sort of angry growl or grunt directly before me — and instantly after, saw a grizzly bear of the largest kind erect himself upon his hind feet within a dozen yards of me, his savage eyes glaring with horrible malignity, his mouth wide open, and his tremendous paws raised as though ready to descend upon me. For a mo- ment, I thought my hour liad come, and that I was fated to die an inglorious death away from my friends and my kindred ; but after waiting a moment in agonizing suspense, and the bear show- ing no inclination to advance, my lagging courage returned, and cocking both barrels of my gun, and presenting it as steadily as my nerves would allow, full at the shaggy breast of the creature, I retreated slowly backwards. Bruin evidently had no notion of braving gunpowder, but I did not know whether, like a dog, if the enemy retreated he would not yet give me a chase ; so when I had placed about a hundred yards between us, I wheeled about and flew, rather than ran, across the plain towards the camp. Several times during this run for life, (as I considered it,) did I fancy that I heard the bear at my heels ; and not daring to look over my shoulder to ascertain the fact, I only increased my speed, until the camp was nearly gained, when, from sheer ex- haustion I relaxed my efforts, fell flat upon the ground, and

100 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

looked behind me. The whole space between me and the copse was untenanted, and I was forced to acknowledge, with a feeling strongly allied to shame, that my fears alone had represented the bear in chase of me.

When I arrived in camp, and told my break-neck adventure to the men, our young companion, Mr. Ashworth, expressed a wish to go and kill the bear, and requested the loan of my double-bar- relled gun for this purpose. This I at first peremptorily refused, and the men, several of whom were experienced hunters, joined me in urging him not to attempt the rash adventure. At length, how- ever, finding him determined on going, and that rather than re- main, he would trust to his own single gun, I was finally induced to of- fer him mine, with a request, (which I had hoped would check his daring spirit,) that he would leave the weapon in a situation where I could readily find it; for afi;er he had made one shot, he would never use a gun again.

He seemed to heed our caution and advice but little, and, with a dogged and determined air, took the way across the plain to the- bushes, which we could see in the distance. I watched him for some time, until I saw him enter them, and then, with a sigh that one so young and talented should be lost from amongst us, and a regret that we did not forcibly prevent his going, I sat myself down, distressed and melancholy. We all listened anx- iously to hear the report of the gun; but no sound reaching our ears, we began to hope that he had failed in finding the animal, and in about fifteen minutes, to my inexpressible relief, we saw him emerge from the copse, and bend his steps slowly towards us. When he came in, he seemed disappointed, and somewhat angry. He said he had searched the bushes in every direction, and although he had found numerous foot prints, no bear was to be seen. It is probable that when I commenced my retreat in one direction, bruin made off in the other, and that although he was willing to dispute the ground with me, and prevent my

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 101

passing his lair, he was equally willing to back out of an en- gagement in which his fears suggested that he might come off the loser.

This evening, as we sat around the camp fire, cozily wrapped in our blankets, some of our old hunters became garrulous, and we had several good " yarns,^'' as a sailor would say. One told of his having been shot by a Blackfoot Indian, who was disguised in the skin of an elk, and exhibited, with some little pride, a great cicatrix which disfigured his neck. Another gave us an interesting account of an attack made by the Cumanche Indians upon a party of Santa-Fee traders, to which he had been attached. The white men, as is usual in general engagements with Indians, gained a signal victory, not, however, without the loss of several of their best hunters ; and the old man, who told the story, — " uncle John," as he was usually called, — shed tears at the recollection of the death of his friends ; and during that part of his narrative, was several times so much affected as to be unable to speak.*

The best story, however, was one told by Richardson, of a meeting he once had with three Blackfeet Indians. He had been out alone hunting buffalo, and towards the end of the day was returning to the camp with his meat, when he heard the clattering of hoofs in the rear, and, upon looking back, observed three Indians in hot pursuit of him.

He immediately discharged his cargo of meat to lighten his horse, and then urged the animal to his utmost speed, in an attempt to distance his pursuers. He soon discovered, however, that the enemy was rapidly gaining upon him, and that in a few

♦ I have repeatedly observed these exhibitions of feeling in some of our people upon particular occasions, and I have been pleased with them, as they seemed to furnish an evidence, that amid all the mental sterility, and absence of moral rectitude, which is so deplorably prevalent, there yet lingers some kindliness of heart, some sentiments which ai-c not wholly depraved.

102 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

minutes more, he would be completely at their mercy, when he hit upon an expedient, as singular as it was bold and courageous. Drawing his long scalping knife from the sheath at his side, he plunged the keen weapon through his horse's neck, and severed the spine. The animal dropped instantly dead, and the deter- mined hunter, throwing himself behind the fallen carcass, waited calmly the approach of his sanguinary pursuers. In a few moments, one Indian was within range of the fatal rifle, and at its report, his horse galloped riderless over the plain. The re- maining two then thought to take him at advantage by approach- ing simultaneously on both sides of his rampart; but one of them, happening to venture too near in order to be sure of his aim, was shot to the heart by the long pistol of the white man, at the very instant that the ball from the Indian's gun whistled harm- lessly by. The third savage, being wearied of the dangerous game, applied the whip vigorously to the flanks of his horse, and was soon out of sight, while Richardson set about collecting the trophies of his singular victory.

He caught the two Indians' horses ; mounted one, and loaded the other with the meat which he had discarded, and returned to his camp with two spare rifles, and a good stock of ammunition.

On the morning of the 25th, we commenced baling up our meat in buffalo skins dried for the purpose. Each bale contains about a hundred pounds, of which a mule carries two; and when we had finished, our twelve long-eared friends were loaded. Our limited term of absence is now nearly expired, and we are anxious to return to the fort in order to prepare for the journey to the lower country.

At about 10 o'clock, we left our pleasant encampment, and bade adieu to the cold spring, the fat bufTalo, and grizzly bears, and urging our mules into their fastest walk, we jolted along with our provant towards the fort.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 103

In about an hour after, an unpleasant accident happened to one of our men, named McCarey. He had been running a buffalo, and was about reloading the gun, which he had just discharged, when the powder in his horn was ignited by a burn- ing wad remaining in the barrel ; the horn was burst to frag- ments, the poor man dashed from his horse, and his face, neck, and hands, burnt in a shocking manner. We applied, imme- diately, the simple remedies which our situation and the place afforded, and in the course of an hour he was somewhat relieved, and travelled on with us, though in considerable suffering. His eyes were entirely closed, the lids very much swollen, and his long, flowing hair, patriarchal beard and eye-brows, had all vanished in smoke. It will be long ere he gets another such crop.

The weather here is generally uncomfortably warm, so much so, that we discard, while travelling, all such encumbrances as coats, neckcloths, &c., but the nights are excessively cold, ice often forming in the camp kettles, of the thickness of half an inch, or more. My custom has generally been to roll myself in my blanket at night, and use my large coat as a pillow; but here the coat must be worn, and my saddle has to serve the purpose to which the coat is usually applied.

We travelled, this day, thirty miles, and the next afternoon, at 4 o'clock, arrived at the fort. On the route we met three hunters, whom Captain W. had sent to kill game for the camp. They informed us that all hands have been for several days on short allowance, and were very anxious for our return.

When we came in sight of the fort, we gave them a mountain salute, each man firing his gun in quick succession. They did not expect us until to-morrow, and the firing aroused them instantly. In a very {e\v minutes, a score of men were armed and mounted, and dashing out to give battle to the advancing Indians, as they thought us. The general supposition was, that

104 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

their little hunting party had been attacked by a band of roving Blackfeet, and they made themselves ready for the rescue in a space of time that did them great credit.

It was perhaps " bad medicine," (to use the mountain phrase,) to fire a salute at all, inasmuch as it excited some unnecessary alarm, but it had the good effect to remind them that danger might be near when they least expected it, and afforded them an opportunity of showing the promptness and alacrity with which they could meet and brave it.

Our people were all delighted to see us arrive, and I could perceive many a longing and eager gaze cast upon the well filled bales, as our mules swung their little bodies through the camp. My companion, Mr. N., had become so exceedingly thin that I should scarcely have known him ; and upon my expressing surprise at the great change in his appearance, he heaved a sigh of inanity, and remarked that I " would have been as thin as he if I had lived on old Epkraim for two weeks, and short allowance of that." I found, in truth, that the whole camp had been sub- sisting, during our absence, on little else than two or three grizzly bears which had been killed in the neighborhood ; and with a complacent glance at my own rotund and cow-fed person, I wished my poor friend better luck for the future.

We found Mr. McKay's company encamped on the bank of the river within a few hundred yards of our tents. It consists of thirty men, thirteen of whom are Indians, Nez Perces, Chinooks and Kayouse, with a few squaws. The remainder are French- Canadians, and half-breeds. Their lodges, — of which there are several, — are of a conical form, composed of ten long poles, the lower ends of which are pointed and driven into the ground ; the upper blunt, and drawn together at the top by thongs. Around these poles, several dressed buffalo skins, sewed together, are stretched, a hole being left on one side for entrance.

These are the kind of lodges universally used by the mountain

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 105

Indians while travelling : they are very comfortable and com- modious, and a squaw accustomed to it, will erect and prepare one for the reception of her husband, while he is removing the trapping, from his horse. I have seen an expert Indian woman stretch a lodge ^in half the time that was required by four white men to perform the same operation with another in the neigh- borhood.

At the fort, affairs look prosperous : the stockade is fin- ished ; two bastions have been erected, and the work is sin- gularly good, considering the scarcity of proper building tools. The house will now soon be habitable, and the structure can then be completed at leisure by men who will be left here in charge, while the party travels on to its destination, the Columbia.

On the evening of the 26th, Captain W. Mr. Nuttall and myself supped with Mr. McKay in his lodge. I am much pleased with this gentleman: he unites the free, frank and open manners of the mountain man, with the grace and affability of the Frenchman. But above all, I admire the order, decorum, and strict subordina- tion which exists among his men, so different from what I have been accustomed to see in parties composed of Americans. Mr. McKay assures me that he had considerable difficulty in bringing his men to the state in which they now are. The free and fear- less Indian was particularly difficult to subdue; but steady, determined perseverance, and bold measures, aided by a rigid self-example, made them as clay in his hand, and has finally reduced them to their present admirable condition. If they misbehave, a commensurate punishment is sure to follow : in extreme cases, flagellation is resorted to, but it is inflicted only by the hand of the Captain ; were any other appointed to perform this office on an Indian, the indignity would be deemed so great, that nothing less than the blood of the individual could appease

the wounded feelings of the savage.

14

106 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

After supper was concluded, we sat ourselves down on a buffalo robe at the entrance of the lodge, to see the Indians at their devotions. The whole thirteen were soon collected at the call of one whom they had chosen for their chief, and seated with sober, sedate countenances around a large lire. After remaining in perfect silence for perhaps fifteen minutes, the chief commenced an harangue in a solemn and impressive tone, reminding them of the object for which they were thus assembled, that of worshipping the " Great Spirit who made the light and the darkness, the fire and the water," and assured them that if they offered up their prayers to him with but " one tongue," they would certainly be accepted. He then rose from his squatting position to his knees, and his example was followed by all the others. In this situation he commenced a prayer, consisting of short sentences uttered rapidly but with great apparent fervor, his hands clasped upon his breast, and his eyes cast upwards with a beseeching look towards heaven. At the conclusion of each sentence, a choral response of a few words was made, accom- panied frequently by low moaning. The prayer lasted about twenty minutes. After its conclusion, the chief, still maintainin g the same position of his body and hands, but with his head bent to his breast, commenced a kind of psalm or sacred song, in which the whole company presently joined. The song was a simple expression of a few sounds, no intelligible words being uttered. It resembled the words, Ho-ha-ho-ha-ho-ha-ha-a, com- mencing in a low tone, and gradually swelling to a full, round, and beautifully modulated chorus. During the song, the clasped hands of the worshippers were moved rapidly across the breast, and their bodies swung with great energy to the time of the music. The chief ended the song that he had commenced, by a kind of swelling groan, which was echoed in chorus. It was then taken up by another, and the same routine was gone

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 107

through. The whole ceremony occupied perhaps one and a half hours ; a short silence then succeeded, after which each Indian rose from the ground, and disappeared in the darkness with a step noiseless as that of a spectre.

I think I never was more gratified by any exhibition in my life. The humble, subdued, and beseeching looks of the poor untutored beings who were calling upon their hea- venly father to forgive their sins, and continue his mercies to them, and the evident and heart-felt sincerity which cha- racterized the whole scene, was truly affecting, and very im- pressive.

The next day, being the Sabbath, our good missionary, Mr. Jason Lee, was requested to hold a meeting, with which he oblig- ingly complied. A convenient, shady spot was selected in the forest adjacent, and the greater part of our men, as well as the whole of Mr. McKay's company, including the Indians, attended. The usual forms of the Methodist service, (to which Mr. L. is attached,) were gone through, and were followed by a brief, but excellent and appropriate exhortation by that gentleman. The people were remarkably quiet and attentive, and the Indians sat upon the ground like statues. Although not one of them could understand a word that was said, they nevertheless maintained the most strict and decorous silence, kneeling when the preacher kneeled, and rising when he rose, evidently with a view of pay- ing him and us a suitable respect, however much their own no- tions as to the proper and most acceptable forms of worship, might have been opposed to ours.

A meeting for worship in the Rocky mountains is almost as unusual as the appearance of a herd of buffalo in the settlements. A sermon was perhaps never preached here before ; but for my- self, I really enjoyed the whole scene; it possessed the charm

108 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

of novelty, to say nothing of the salutary etTect which I sincerely hope it may produce.

Mr. Lee is a great favorite with the men, deservedly so, and there are probably iJsw persons to whose preaching they would have listened with so much complaisance. I have often been amused and pleased by Mr. L.'s manner of reproving them for the coarseness and profanity of expression which is so uni- versal amongst them. The reproof, although decided, clear, and strong, is always characterized by the mildness and affectionate manner peculiar to the man ; and although the good effect of the advice may not be discernible, yet it is always treated with re- spect, and its utility acknowledged.

In the evening, a fatal accident happened to a Canadian be- longing to Mr. McKay's party. He was running his horse, in company with another, when the animals were met in full career by a third rider, and horses and men were thrown with great force to the ground. The Canadian was taken up completely senseless, and brought to Mr. McKay's lodge, where we were all taking supper. I perceived at once that there was little chance of his life being saved. He had received an injury of the head which had evidently caused concussion of the brain. He was bled copiously, and various local remedies were ap- plied, but without success ; the poor man died early next morning.

He was about forty years of age, healthy, active, and shrewd, and very much valued by Mr. McKay as a leader in his absence, and as an interpreter among the Indians of the Columbia.

At noon the body was interred. It was wrapped in a piece of coarse linen, over which was sewed a buffalo robe. The spot se- lected, was about a hundred yards south of the fort, and the luneral was attended by the greater part of the men of both camps. Mr. Lee ofliciatcd in performing the ordinary church

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 109

ceremony, after which a hymn for the repose of the soul of the departed, was sung by the Canadians present. The grave is surrounded by a neat palisade of willows, with a black cross erected at the head, on which is carved the name " Casseaii.^''

110 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

CHAPTER VII.

Departure of .Mr. JMcXay^s parti/. Captain Stewart, and the missionaries — Debauch at the fort — Departure of the company — Poor provision — Blackfeet hunting ground — A toilsome journey, and sufferings from thirst — Goddin's creek — Antoine Goddin, the trapper — Scarcity of game — A buffalo — Rugged mountains — Comforting reflections of the traveller — More game — Unusual economy — Habits of the white -wolf — " Thor7iburg's pass'" — Dijicult travel- ling— The captain in Jeopardy among the snow — Jl countermarch — Deserted Banneck camp — Toilsome and dangerous passage of the mountain — JMallade river — Beaver dams, and heaver — A party of Snake Indians — Scarcity of pasture — Another Banneck camp — " Kamas prairie'''' — Indian mode of pre- paring the kamas — Racine blanc, or biscuit root — Travelling over the hills — Loss of horses by fatigue — Boisie or Big-wood river — Salmon — Clioke-cher- ries, &c.

On the 30th of July, Mr. McKay and his party left us for Fort Vancouver, Captain Stewart and our band of misionaries ac- companying them. The object of the latter in leaving us, is, that they may have an opportunity of travelling more slowly than we should do, on account, and for the benefit of the horned cattle which they are driving to the lower country. We feel quite sad in the prospect of parting from those with whom w^e have endured some toil and danger, and who have been to some of us as brothers, throughout our tedious journey ; but, if no unforeseen accident occurs, we hope to meet them all again at Walla- Walla, the upper fort on the Columbia. As the party rode off, we fired three rounds, which were promptly answered, and three times three cheers wished the travellers success.

August 5th. — At sunrise this morning, the " star-spangled banner" was raised on the flag-staff at the fort, and a salute

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. Ill

fired by the men, who, according to orders, assembled around it. AH in camp were then allowed the free and uncontrolled use of liquor, and, as usual, the consequence was a scene of rioting, noise, and fighting, during the whole day ; some became so drunk that their senses fled them entirely, and they were there- fore harmless ; but by far the greater number were just suffi- ciently under the influence of the vile trash, to render them in their conduct disgusting and tiger-like. We had "gouging," biting, fisticuffing, and " stamping" in the most " scientific" per- fection ; some even fired guns and pistols at each other, but these weapons were mostly harmless in the unsteady hands which employed them. Such scenes I hope never to witness again ; they are absolutely sickening, and cause us to look upon our species with abhorrence and loathing. Night at last came, and cast her mantle over our besotted camp ; the revel was over, and the men retired to their pallets peaceably, but not a few of them will bear palpable evidence of the debauch of the 5th of August.

The next morning we commenced packing, and at 11 o'clock bade adieu to " Fort Hall." Our company now consists of but thirty men, several Indian women, and one hundred and sixteen horses. We crossed the main Snake, or Shoshone river, at a point about three miles from the fort. It is here as wide as the Missouri at Independence, but, beyond comparison, clearer and more beautiful.

Immediately on crossing the river, we entered upon a wide, sandy plain, thickly covered with wormwood, and early in the afternoon, encamped at the head of a delightful spring, about ten miles from our starting place.

On the route, our hunters killed a young grizzly bear, which, with a few grouse, made us an excellent dinner. Fresh meat is now very grateful to our palates, as we have been living for weeks past on nothing but poor, dried buffalo, the better, and

112 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNKY

far the larger part, having been deposited in the fort for the subsistence of the men who remain. We have no flour, nor vegetables of any kind, and our meat may be aptly compai-ed to dry chips, breaking short off in our fingers; and when boiled to soften it a little, and render it fit for mastication, not a star appears in the pot. It seems astonishing that life can be sus- tained upon such miserable fare, and yet our men (except when under the influence of liquor) have never murmered, but have always eaten their crusty meal, and drunk their cold water with light and excellent spirits. We hope soon to fall in with the buffalo, and we shall then endeavor to prepare some good provision to serve until we reach the salmon region.

We shall now, for about ten days, be travelling through the most dangerous country west of the mountains, the regular hunting ground of the Blackfeet Indians, who are said to be often seen here in parties of hundreds, or even thousands, scour- ing the plains in pursuit of the buffalo. Traders, therefore, seldom travel this route without meeting them, and being com- pelled to prove their valor upon them ; the white men are, how- ever, generally the victors, although their numbers are always vastly inferior.

1th. — We were moving this morning with the dawn, and travelled steadily the whole day, over one of the most arid plains we have seen, covered thickly with jagged masses of lava, and twisted wormwood bushes. Both horses and men were jaded to the last degree ; the former from the rough, and at times almost impassable nature of the track, and the latter from ex- cessive heat and parching thirst. We saw not a drop of water during the day, and our only food was the dried meat before spoken of, which we carried, and chewed like biscuits as we travelled. There are two reasons by which the extreme thirst which the way-farer suffers in these regions, may be accounted

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 113

for; first, the intense heat of the sun upon the open and exposed plains ; and secondly, the desiccation to which every thing here is subject. The air feels like the breath of a sirocco, the tongue becomes parched and horny, and the mouth, nose, and eyes are incessantly assailed by the fine pulverized lava, which rises from the ground with the least breath of air. Bullets, pebbles of chalcedony, and pieces of smooth obsidian, were in great requisi- tion to-day ; almost every man was mumbling some of these substances, in an endeavor to assuage his burning thirst. The camp trailed along in a lagging and desponding line over the plain for a mile or more, the poor horses heads hanging low, their tongues protruding to their utmost extent, and their riders scarcely less drooping and spiritless. We were a sad and most forlorn looking company, certainly ; not a man of us had any thing to say, and none cared to be interrupted in his blissful dream of cool rivers and streams. Occasionally we would pass a ravine or gorge in the hills, by which one side of the plain was bounded, and up this some of the men would steer, leaping over blocks of lava, and breaking a path through the dense bushes ; but the poor searcher soon returned, disheartened and wo-begone, and those who had waited anxiously to hear his cheering call, announcing success, passed onward without a word. One of our men, a mulatto, after failing in a forage of this sort, cast himself resolutely from his horse to the gi'ound, and declared that he would lie there till he died ; " there was no water in the cursed country, and he might as well die here as go farther." Some of us tried to infuse a little courage into him, but it proved of no avail, and each was too much occupied with his own particular grief to use his tongue much in persuasion; so we left him to his fate.

Soon after night-fall, some signs of water were seen in a small valley to our left, and, upon ascending it, the foremost of the

party found a delightful little cold spring ; but they soon exhausted

15

114 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

it, and then commenced, with axes and knives, to dig it out and enlarge it. By the time that Mr. N., and myself arrived, they had excavated a large space which was filled to overflowing with muddy water. We did not wait for it to settle, however, but throwing ourselves flat upon the ground, drank until we were ready to burst. The tales which I had read of suffering travellers in the Arabian deserts, then recurred with some force to my re- collection, and I thought I could, — though in a very small measure, — appreciate their sufferings by deprivation, and their unmingled delight and satisfaction in the opportunity of assuaging them.

Poor Jim, the mulatto man, was found by one of the people, who went back in search of him, lying where he had first fallen, and either in a real or pretended swoon, still obstinate about dying, and scarcely heeding the assurances of the other that w-ater was within a mile of him. He was, however, at length dragged and carried into camp, and soused head foremost into the mud puddle, where he guzzled and guzzled until his eyes seemed ready to burst from his head, and he was lifted out and laid dripping and flaccid upon the ground.

The next morning we made an early start towards a range of willows which we could distinctly see, at the distanceof fifteen or twenty miles, and which we knew indicated Goddin's creek, so called from a Canadian of that name who was killed in this vicinity by the Blackfcet. Goddin's son, a half-breed, is now with us as a trapper ; he is a fine sturdy fellow, and of such strength of limb and wind, that he is said to be able to run down a buffalo on foot, and kill him with arrows.

Goddin's creek was at length gained, and after travelling a few miles along its bank we encamped in some excellent pasture. Our poor horses seemed inclined to make up for lost time here, as yesterday their only food was the straggling blades of a little

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 115

dry and parched grass growing among the wormwood on the hills.

We have been considerably disappointed in not seeing any buffalo to-day, and their absence here has occasioned some fear that we may not meet with them on our route. Should this be the case, we shall have to depend upon such small game, hares, grouse, &c., as may happen to lie in our path. In a short time, however, even this resource will fail ; and if we do not happen to see Indians on the upper waters of the Columbia, from whom we can purchase dried salmon, we shall be under the necessity of killing our horses for food.

We perhaps derive one advantage, however, from the absence of game here, — that of there being less probability of lurking Black feet in the vicinity ; but this circumstance, convenient as it is, does not compensate for empty stomachs, and I believe the men would rather fight for the privilege of obtaining food, than live without it.

The next morning we left Goddin's creek, and travelled for ten miles over a plain, covered as usual with wormwood bushes and lava. Early in the day, the welcome cry of "a buffalo! a buffalo !" was heard from the head of the company, and was echoed joyfully along the whole line. At the moment, a fine large bull was seen to bound from the bushes in our front, and tear off with all his speed over the plain. Several hunters gave him chase immediately, and in a few minutes we heard the guns that proclaimed his death. The killing of this animal is a most fortunate circumstance for us : his meat will probably sustain us for three or four days, and by that time we are sanguine of pro- curing other provision. The appearance of this buffalo is not considered indicative of the vicinity of others : ho is probably a straggler from a travelling band, and has been unable to proceed with it, in consequence of sickness or wounds.

116 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

On leaving the plain this morning, we struck into a defile between some of the highest mountains we have yet seen. In a short time we commenced ascending, and continued passing over them, until late in the afternoon, when we reached a plain about a mile in width, covered with excellent grass, and a delightful cool stream flowing through the middle of it. Here we encamped, having travelled twenty-seven miles.

Our journey, to-day, has been particularly laborious. We were engaged for several hours, constantly in ascending and descending enormous rocky hills, with scarcely the sign of a valley between them ; and some of them so steep, that our horses were frequently in great danger of falling, by making a mis-step on the loose, rolling stones. I thought the Black Hills, on the Platte, rugged and difficult of passage, but they sink into insigni- ficance when compared with these.

We observed, on these mountains, large masses of greenstone, and beautiful pebbles of chalcedony and fine agate ; the summits of the highest are covered with snow. In the mountain passes, we found an abundance of large, yellow currants, rather acid, but exceedingly palatable to men who have been long living on ani- mal food exclusively. We all ate heartily of them; indeed, some of our people became so much attached to the bushes, that we had considerable difiicultyto induce them to travel again.

\Oth. — We commenced our march at seven this morning, pro- ceeding up a narrow valley, bordering our encampment in a north-easterly direction. The ravine soon widened, until it became a broad, level plain, covered by the eternal " sage" bushes, but was much less stony than usual. About mid-day, we left the plain, and shaped our course over a spur of one of the large mountains ; then taking a ravine, in about an hour we came to the level land, and struck Goddin's creek again, late in the afternoon.

Our provision was all exhausted at breakfast, this morning,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 117

(most of our bull meat having been given to a band of ten ti'ap- pers, who left us yesterday,) we had seen no game on our route, and we were therefore preparing ourselves to retire supperless to our pallets, when Richardson and Sansbury were descried ap- proaching the camp, and, to our great comfort, we observed that they had meat on their saddles. When they arrived, however, we were somewhat disappointed to find that they had only killed a calf, but they had brought the entire little animal with them, the time for picking and choosing of choice pieces having passed with us ; and after making a hearty meal, we wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept soundly. Although but a scant break- fast was left for us in the morning, and we knew not if any dinner would fall in our way, yet " none of these things moved us ;" we lived altogether upon the present, and heeded not the future. We had always been provided for ; often, whgn we had despaired of procuring sustenance, and when the pangs of hunger had soured our temper, and made us quarrelsome, when we thought there was no prospect before us but to sacrifice our valuable horses, or die of starvation, have the means been pro- vided for our relief. A bufialo, an elk, or an antelope, has appeared like the goat provided for the faithful Abraham, to save a more valuable life, and I hope that some of us have been willing, reverently to acknowledge from whom these benefits and blessings have been received.

On the day following, Richardson killed two buffalo, and brought his horse heavily laden with meat to the camp. Our good hunter walked himself, that the animal might be able to bear the greater burthen. After depositing the meat in the camp, he took a fresh horse, and accompanied by three men, returned to the spot where the game had been killed, (about four miles distant,) and in the evening, brought in every pound of it, leaving only the heavier bones. The wolves will be disappointed this evening ; they are accustomed to dainty picking when they

118 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

glean after the hunters, but we have now abandoned the " wasty ways" which so disgraced us when game was abundant ; the despised leg bone, which was wont to be thrown aside with such contempt, is now polished of every tendon of its covering, and the savory hump is used as a kind of dessert after a meal of coarser meat.

Speaking of wolves, I have often been surprised at the perse- verance and tenacity with which these animals will sometimes follow the hunter for a whole day, to feed upon the carcass he may leave behind him. When an animal is killed, they seem to mark the operation, and stand still at a most respectful distance, with drooping tail and cars, as though perfectly indifferent to the matter in progress. Thus will they stand until the game is butchered, the meat placed upon the saddle, and the hunter is mounted and on his way ; then, if he glances behind him, he will see the wily forager stealthily crawling and prowling along towards the smoking remains, and pouncing upon it, and tearing it with tooth and nail, immediately as he gets out of reach.

During the day, the wolves are shy, and rarely permit an approach to within gun-shot; but at night, (where game is abun- dant,) they are so fearless as to come quite within the purlieus of the camp, and there sit, a dozen together, and howl hideously for hours. This kind of serenading, it may be supposed, is not the most agreeable; and many a time, when on guard, have I observed the unquiet tossing of the bundles of blankets near me, and heard issue from them, the low, husky voice of some dis- turbed sleeper, denouncing heavy anathemas on the unseasonable music.

\2th. — Wc shaped our course, this morning, towards what appeared to us a gap in a high and rugged mountain, about twenty miles ahead. After proceeding eight or ten miles, the character of the country underwent a remarkable and sudden change. Instead of the luxuriant sage bushes, by which tlie

ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 119

whole plains have hitherto been covered, and the compact and dense growth of willows which has uniformly fringed every stream and rivulet, the ground was completely denuded ; not a single shrub was to be seen, nor the smallest appearance of vege- tation, except in small patches near the water. The mountains, also, which had generally been rocky, and covei'ed with low, tangled bushes, here abound in beautiful and shapely pine trees. Some of the higher peaks are, however, completely bare, and capped with enormous masses of snow- After we had travelled about twelve miles, we entered a defile between the mountains, about five hundred yards wide, covered, like the surrounding country, with pines ; and, as we proceeded, the timber grew so closely, added to a thick undergrowth of bushes, that it appeared almost impossible to proceed with our horses. The farther we advanced, the more our difficulties seemed to increase ; obstacles of various kinds impeded our progress ; — fallen trees, their branches tangled and matted toge- ther, large rocks and deep ravines, holes in the ground, into which our animals would be precipitated without the possibility of avoiding them, and an hundred other difficulties, which beggar description.

We travelled for six miles through such a region as I have attempted to describe, and at 2 o'clock encamped in a clear spot of ground, where we found excellent grass, and a cold, rapid stream. Soon after we stopped. Captain W. and Richardson left us, to look for a pass through the mountains, or for a spot where it would be possible to cross them. Strange as it may appear, yet in this desolate and almost impassable region we have ob- served, to-day, the tracks of a buffalo which must have passed here last night, or this morning ; at least so our hunters say, and they are rarely deceived in such matters.

Captain W. and Richardson returned early next morning, with the mortifying inteUigence that no practicable pass through the

120 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

mountain could be found. They ascended to the very summit of one of the highest peaks, above the snow and the reach of ve- getation, and the only prospect which they had beyond, was a confused mass of huge angular rocks, over which even a wild goat could scarcely have made his way. Although they utterly failed in the object of their exploration, yet they were so fortunate as to kill a buffalo, (the buffalo,) the meat of which they brought on their horses.

Wyeth told us of a narrow escape he had while travelling on foot near the summit of one of the peaks. He was walking on a ridge which sloped from the top at an angle of about forty de- grees, and terminated, at its lower part, in a perpendicular preci- pice of a thousand or twelve hundred feet. He was movino- along in the snow cautiously, near the lower edge, in order to attain a more level spot beyond, when his feet slipped and he fell. Before he could attempt to fix himself firmly, he slid down the declivity till within a few feet of the frightful precipice. At the instant of his fall, he had the presence of mind to plant the rifle which he held in one hand, and his knife which he drew from the scabbard with the other, into the snow, and as he almost tottered on the verge, he succeeded in checking himself, and hold- ing his body perfectly still. He then gradually moved, first the rifle and then the knife, backward up the slanting hill behind him, and fixing them firmly, drew up his body parallel to them. In this way he moved slowly and surely until he had gained his former station, when, without further difficulty, he succeeded in reaching the more level land.

After a good breakfast, we packed our horses, and struck back on our trail of yesterday, in order to try another valley which we observed bearing parallel with this, at about three miles dis- tant, and which we conclude must of course furnish a pass through the mountain. Although our difficulties in returning by the same wretched route were very considerable, yet they were

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOUNTAIIVS, ETC. 121

somewhat diminished by the road having been partially broken, and we were enabled also to avoid many of the sloughs and pit- falls which had before so much incommoded us. We have named this rugged valley, " Thornburg's pass," after one of our men of this name, (a tailor,) whom we have to thank for leading us into all these troubles. Thornburg crossed this mountain two years ago, and might therefore be expected to know something of the route, and as he was the only man in the company who had been here, Captain W. acted by his advice, in opposition to his own judgment, which had suggested the other valley as af- fording a m.ore probable chance of success. As we are probably the only white men who have ever penetrated into this most vile and abominable rcsion, we conclude that the name v/e have eiven it must stand, from priority.

In the bushes, along the stream in this valley, the black-tailed deer (^Cervus macrouriis) is abundant. The beautiful creatures frequently bounded from their cover within a few yards of us, and trotted on before us like domestic animals ; " they are so un- acquainted with man" and his cruel arts, that they seem not to fear him.

We at length arrived on the open plain again, and in our route towards the other valley, we came to a large, recent Indian encampment, probably of Bannecks,* who are travelling down to

* We aftcpwanls learned, lliat only tliree (lavs before our arrival, a liard con- tested, and most sanguinary battle, had been fought on this spot, between the Bannecks and Blackfeet, in which the former gained a signal and most complete victory, killing upwards of forty of their adversaries, and taking about three dozen scalps. The Blackfeet, altliough much the larger party, were on foot, but the Bannecks, being all well mounted, had a very decided advantage ; and the contest occurring on an open plain, where there was no chance of cover, the Blackteet were run down with horses, and, without being able to load their guns, were trampled to death, or killed with salmon spuars and axes.

This was not tlie first time that we narrowly escaped a contest with this savage

16

122 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEVf

the fisheries on Snake river. We here took their trail which led up the valley to which we had been steering. The entrance was very similar in appearance to that of Thornburg's pass, and it is not therefore very surprising that our guide should have been de- ceived. We travelled rapidly along the level land at the base of the mountain, for about three miles ; we then began to ascend, and our progress was necessarily slow and tedious. The com- mencement of the Alpine path was, however, far better than we had expected, and we entertained the hope that the passage could be made without difficulty or much toil, but the farther we pro- gressed, the more laborious the travelling became. Sometimes we mounted steep banks of intermingled flinty rock, and friable slate, where our horses could scarcely obtain a footing, frequently sliding down several feet on the loose, broken stones : — again we passed along the extreme verge of tremendous precipices at a giddy height, whereat almost every step the stones and earth would roll from under our horses' feet, and we could hear them strike with a dull, leaden 'sound on the craggy rocks below. The whole jc irney, to-day, from the time we arrived at the heights, until we had crossed the mountain, has been a most fearful one. For myself, I might have diminished the danger very considerably, by adopt- ing the plan pursued by the rest of the company, that of walking, and leading my horse over the most dangerous places, but I have been suffering for several days with a lame foot, and am wholly incapable of such exertion. I soon discovered that an attempt to guide my horse over the most rugged and steepest ranges was worse than useless, so I dropped the rein upon the animal's neck, and allowed him to take his own course, closing my eyes, and keeping as quiet as possible in the saddle. But I could not for-

and most dreaded tribe. If we had passed there but a few dajs earlier, there is every probability to suppose that we should have been attacked, as onr party at that tlrae consisted of but twenty-six men.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 123

bear starting occasionally, when the feet of my horse would slip on a stone, and one side of him would slide rapidly towards the edge of the precipice, but I always recovered myself by a desperate effort, and it was fortunate for me that I did so.

Late in the afternoon, we completed the passage across the mountain, and with thankful hearts, again trod the level land. We entered here a fine rich valley or plain, of about half a mile in width, between two ranges of the mountain. It was profusely covered with willow, and through the middle of it, ran a rapid and turbulent mountain torrent, called Mallade river. It contains a great abundance of beaver, their recent dams being seen in great numbers, and in the night, when all was quiet, we could hear the playful animals at their gambols, diving from the shore into the water, and striking the surface with their broad tails. The sound, altogether, was not unlike that of children at play, and the animated description of a somewhat similar scene, in the " Mohicans," recurred to my recollection, where the single-minded Gamut is contemplating with feelings of strong reprobation, the wayward freaks of what he supposes to be a bevy of young savages.

lAth. — We travelled down Mallade river, and followed the Indian trail through the valley. The path frequently passed along near the base of the mountain, and then wound its way a considerable distance up it, to avoid rocky impediments and thick tangled bushes below, so that we had some climbing to do ; but the difficulties and perils of the route of yesterday are still so fresh in our memory, that all minor things are disregarded, at least by us. Our poor horses, however, no doubt feel differently, as they are very tired and foot sore.

The next day we came to a close and almost impenetrable thicket of tangled willows, through which we had great diffi- culty in urging our horses. The breadth of the thicket was

124 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

about one hundred yards, and a full hour was consumed in pass- ing through it. Wc then entered immediately a rich and beauti- ful valley, covered profusely with a splendid blue Lupin. The mountains on either side are of much less height than those we have passed, and entirely bare, the pine trees which generally cover, and ornament them, having disappeared. During the morning, we ascended and descended several high and stony hills, and early in the afternoon, emerged upon a large, level prairie, and struck a branch of Mallade river, where we en- camped.

While we were unloading, we observed a number of Indians ahead, and not being aware of their character, stood with our horses saddled, while Captain W. and Richardson rode out to re- connoitre. In about half an hour they returned, and informed us that they were Snakes who were returning from the fisheries, and travelling towards the buffalo on the " big river," (Shoshone.) We therefore unsaddled our poor jaded horses and turned them out to feed upon the luxuriant pasture around the camp, while we, almost equally jaded, threw ourselves down in our blankets to seek a little repose and quiet after the toils and fatigues of a long day's march.

Soon after we encamped, the Snake chief and two of his young men visited us. We formed a circle around our lodge and smoked the pipe of peace with them, after which we made them each a present of a yard of scarlet cloth for loggings, some balls and powder, a knife, and a looking glass. Captain W. then asked ^ them a number of questions, through an interpreter, relative to the route, the fishery, &c. &c., — and finally bought of them a small quantity of dried salmon, and a little fermented kamas or quamash root. The Indians remained with us until dark, and then left us quietly for their own camp. There are two lodges of them, in all about twenty persons, but none of them presumed to come near us, with the exception of the three men, two

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 125

squaws, and a few children. The chief is a man about fifty years of age, tall, and dignified looking, with large, strong aqua- line features. His manners were cordial and agreeable, perhaps remarkably so, and he exhibited very little of that stoical indiffer- ence to surrounding objects which is so characteristic of an In- dian. His dress consisted of plain leggings of deer skin, fringed at the sides, unembroidered moccasins, and a marro or waist- covering of antelope skin dressed without removing the hair. The upper part of his person was simply covered with a small blanket, and his ears were profusely ornamented with brass rings and beads. The men and squaws who accompanied him, were entirely naked, except that the latter had marro's of deer skin covering the loins.

The next morning we steered west across the wide prairie, crossing within every mile or two, a branch of the tortuous Mallade, near each of which good pasture was seen ; but on the main prairie scarcely a blade of grass could be found, it having been lately fired by the Indians to improve the crops of next year. We have seen to-day some lava and basalt again on the sides of the hills, and on the mounds in the plain, but the level land was entirely free from it.

At noon on the 17th, we passed a deserted Indian camp, pro- bably of the same people whose trail we have been following. There were many evident signs of the Indians having but re- cently left it, among which was that of several white wolves lurking around in the hope of finding remnants of meat, but, as a Scotchman would say, " I doubt they were mistaken," for meat is scarce here, and ^he frugal Indians rarely leave enough behind them to excite even the famished stomach of the lank and hun- gry wolf. The encampment here has been but a temporary one, occupying a little valley densely overgrown with willows, the tops of which have been bent over, and tied so as to form a sort of lodge ; over these, they have probably stretched deer

126 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

skins or blankets, to exclude the rays of the sun. Of these lodges there are about forty in the valley, so that the party must have been a large one.

In the afternoon we arrived at " Kaunas prairie,'''' so called from a vast abundance of this esculent root which it produces, (the Kamassa esculenta, of Nutlall.) The plain is a beautiful level one of about a mile over, hemmed in by low, rocky hills, and in spring, the pretty blue flowers of the Kamas are said to give it a peculiar, and very pleasing appearance. At this season, the flowers do not appear, the vegetable being indicated only by little dry stems which protrude all over the ground among the

grass.

We encamped here, near a small branch of Mallade river ; and soon after, all hands took their kettles and scattered over the prairie to dig a mess of kamas. We were, of course, eminently successful, and were furnished thereby with an excellent and wholesome meal. When boiled, this little root is palatable, and somewhat resembles the taste of the common potato ; the Indian mode of preparing it, is, however, the best— that of fermenting it in pits under ground, into which hot stones have been placed. It is suffered to remain in these pits for several days ; and when removed, is of a dark brown color, about the consistence of soft- ened glue, and sweet, like molasses. It is then often made into large cakes, by being mashed, and pressed together, and slightly baked in the sun. There are several other kinds of bulbous and tuburous roots, growing in these plains, which are eaten by the Indians, after undergoing a certain process of fermentation or baking. Among these, that which is most esteemed, is the white or biscuit root, the Racine blanc of the Canadians, — {Eidophvs ambiguus, of Nuttall.) This is dried, pulverized with stones, and after being moistened with water, is made into cakes and baked in the sun. The taste is not unlike that of a stale

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 127

biscuit, and to a luingry man, ov one who has long subsisted without vegetables of any kind, is i-ather palatable.

.On the morning of the 18th, we commenced ascending the hills again, and had a laborious and toilsome day's march. One of our poor wearied horses gave up, and stopped ; kicking, and cuffing, and beating had no effect to make him move ; the poor animal laid himself down with his load, and after this was de- tached and shifted to the back of another, we left him where he fell, to recruit, and fall into the hands of the Indians, or die among the arid hills. This is the first horse we have lost in this manner; but we have great fears that many others will soon fail, as their riders and drivers are compelled to use the whip con- stantly, to make them walk at the slowest gait. We comfort ourselves, however, by supposing that we have now nearly passed the most rugged country on the route, and hope, before many days, to reach the valley of the Shoshone, where the country will be level, and the pasture good. We are anxious, also, to fall in with the Snake Indians, in order to get a supply of salmon, as we have been living for several days on a short allowance of wretched, dry meat, and this poor pittance is now almost exhausted.

19th. — This morning was cold, the thermometer stood at 28°, and a thick skim of ice was in the camp kettles at sunrise. Another hard day's travel over the hills, during which we lost two of our largest and stoutest horses. Towards evening, we descended to a fine large plain, and struck Boisee, or Big Wood river, on the borders of which we encamped. This is a beautiful stream, about one hundred yards in width, clear as crystal, and, in some parts, probably twenty feet deep. It is literally crowded with salmon, which are springing from the water almost con- stantly. Our mouths are watering most abundantly for soine of them, but we are not provided with suitable implements for

128 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

taking any, and must therefore depend for a supply on the In- dians, whom we hope soon to meet.

We found, in the mountain passes, to-day, a considerable quantity of a small fruit called the choke-cherry, a species of prunus, growing on low bushes. \A'hen ripe, they are tolerable eating, somewhat astringent, however, producing upon the mouth the same effect, though in a less degree^ as the unripe persimmon. They are now generally green, or we should feast luxuriantly upon them, and render more tolerable our miserable provision. We have seen, also, large patches of service bushes, but no fruit. It seems to have failed this year, although ordinarily so abundant that it constitutes a large portion of the vegetable food of both Indians and white trappers who visit these regions.

ACROSS THE UOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 129

CHAPTER VIII.

Jl substitute for game, and a luxurious breakfast — Expectations of a repast, and a disappointment — Visit of a Snake chief — his abhorrence of horse meat — A band of Snake Indians — their chief — Trade with Indians for salmon— Mr. Ashworth's adventtire — An Indian horse-thief— Visit to the Snake camp — its Jilthiness — A Banneck camp — Supercilious conduct of the Indians — Airival at Snake river — Equipment of a trapping party — Indian mode of catching salmon — Loss of a favorite horse — Powder river — Cut rocks— Recovery of the lost trail — Grand Ronde — Captain Bonneville — his fondness for a roving life—Kayouse and J^ez Perce Indians— their appear- ance— An Indian beauty — Blue mountains — A feline visit.

August 20th. — At about daylight this morning, having charge of the last guard of the night, I observed a beautiful, sleek little colt, of about four months old, trot into the camp, winnowing with great apparent pleasure, and dancing and curvetting gaily amongst our sober and sedate band. I had no doubt that he had strayed from Indians, who were probably in the neighborhood; but as here, every animal that comes near us is fair game, and as we were hungry, not having eaten any thing of consequence since yesterday morning, I thought the little stranger would make a good breakfast for us. Concluding, however, that it would be best to act advisedly in the matter, I put my head into Captain W.'s tent, and telling him the news, made the proposi- tion which had occurred to mc. The captain's reply was en- couraging enough, — " Down with him, if you please, Mr. T., it is the Lord's doing; let us have him for breakfast." In five minutes afterwards, a bullet scaled the fate of the unfortunate

visitor, and my men were set to work making fires, and rum-

17

130 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

maglng out the long-neglected stew-pans, while I engaged myself in flaying the little animal, and cutting up his body in readiness for the pots.

When the camp was aroused, about an hour after, the savory steam of the cookery was rising and saluting the nostrils of our hungry people with its fragrance, who, rubbing their hands with delight, sat themselves down upon the ground, waiting with what patience they might, for the unexpected repast which was preparing for them.

It was to me almost equal to a good breakfast, to witness the pleasure and satisfaction which I had been the means of diffusing through the camp.

The repast was ready at length, and we did full justice to it ; every man ate until he was filled, and all pronounced it one of the most delicious meals they had ever assisted in demolishing. When our breakfast was concluded, but little of the colt remained ; that little was, however, carefully packed up, and deposited on one of the horses, to furnish, at least, a portion of another meal.

The route, this morning, lay along Boisee. For an hour, the travelling was toilsome and difficult, the Indian trail, leading along the high bank of the river, steep and rocky, making our progress very slow and laborious. We then came to a wide plain, interrupted only by occasional high banks of earth, some of them of considerable extent, across which ran the path. To- wards mid-day, we lost sight of these banks, the whole country appearing level, with the exception of some distant hills in the south-west, which we suppose indicate the vicinity of some part of Snake river.

We have all been disappointed in the distance to this river, and the length of time required to reach it. Not a man in our camp has ever travelled this route before, and all we have known about it has been the general course.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 131

In the afternoon, we observed a number of Indians on the oppo- site side of the river, engaged in fishing for salmon. Captain W. and two men immediately crossed over to them, carrying with them a few small articles to exchange for fish. We congratu- lated ourselves upon our good fortune in seeing these Indians, and were anticipating a plentiful meal, when Captain W. and his companions returned, bringing only three small salmon. The Indians had been unsuccessful in fishing, not having caught enough for themselves, and even the offer of exorbitant sums was not sufficient to induce them to part with more.

In the afternoon, a grouse and a beaver were killed, which, added to the remains of the colt, and our three little salmon, made us a tolerable supper. While we were eating, we were visited by a Snake chief, a large and powerful man, of a peculiarly dignified aspect and manner. He was naked, with the exception of a small blanket which covered his shoulders, and descended to the middle of the back, being fastened around the neck with a silver skewer. As it was pudding time with us, our visitor was of course invited to sit and eat ; and he, nothing loath, deposited himself at once upon the ground, and made a remarkably vigorous assault upon the mixed contents of the dish. He had not eaten long, however, before we perceived a sudden and inex- plicable change in his countenance, which was instantly followed by a violent ejectment of a huge mouthful of our luxurious fare. The man rose slowly, and with great dignity, to his feet, and pro- nouncing the single word " shekum," (horse,) in a tone of mingled anger and disgust, stalked rapidly out of the camp, not even wishing us a good evening. It struck me as a singular in- stance of accuracy and discrimination in the organs of taste. We had been eating of the multifarious compound without being able to recognise, by the taste, a single ingredient which it con- tained ; a stranger came amongst us, who did not know, when he

132 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

commenced eating, that the dish was formed of more than one item, and yet in less than five minutes he discovered one of the very least of its component parts.

It would seem from this circumstance that the Indians, or it may be the particular tribe to which this man belongs, are opposed to the eating of horse flesh, and yet, the natural supposi- tion would be, that in the gameless country inhabited by them they would often be reduced to such shifts, and thus readily conquer any natural reluctance which they might feel to partake of such food. I did not think until after he left us, that if the chief knew how the horse meat he so much detested was procured, and where, he might probably have expressed even more indignation, for it is not at all unlikely that the colt had strayed from his own band.

21st. — The timber along the river banks is plentiful, and often attains a large size. It is chiefly of the species called balsam poplar, (^Populus balsamifera.)

Towards noon to-day, we observed ahead several groups of Indians, perhaps twenty in each, and on the appearance of our cavalcade, they manifested their joy at seeing us, by the most extravagant and grotesque gestures, dancing and capering most ludicrously. Every individual of them was perfectly naked, with the exception of a small thong around the waist, to which was attached a square piece of flannel, skin, or canvass, depending half way to the knees. Their stature was rather below the middle height, but they were strongly built and very muscular. Each man carried his salmon spear, and these, with the knives stuck in their girdles, appeared to be their only weapons, not one of them having a gun. As we neared them, the fiftt group ran towards us, crying "Shoshone, Shoshone," anjd" caused some delay by their eagerness to grasp our hands and examine our garments. After one group had become satisfied with fingering

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 133

US, we rode on and suffered the same process by the next, and so on until we had passed the whole, every Indian crying with a loud voice, " Tahihoo sant, tahihoo sant /" (white man is good, white man is good.)

In a short time the chief joined us, and our party stopped for an hour, and had a "talk" with him. He told us, in answer to our questions, that his people had fish, and would give them for our goods if we would sleep one night near their camp, and smoke with them. No trade, of consequence, can ever be effected with Indians, unless the pipe be first smoked, and the matter calmly and seriously deliberated upon. An Indian chief would think his dignity seriously compromised if he were expected to do any thing in a hurry, much less so serious a matter as a salmon or beaver trade ; and if we had refused his offered terms, he would probably have allowed us to pass on, and denied himself the darling rings, bells, and paint, rather than infringe a custom so long religiously practised by his people. We were therefore inclined to humor our Snake friend, and accordingly came to a halt, on the bank of the river.

The chief and several of his favored young braves sat with us on the bank, and we smoked with them, the other Indians forming a large circle around.

The chief is a man rather above the ordinary height, with a fine, noble countenance, and remarkably large, prominent eyes. His person, instead of being naked, as is usual, is clothed in a robe made of the skin of the mountain sheep ; a broad band made of large blue beads, is fastened to the top of his head, and hangs over on his cheeks, and around his neck is suspended the foot of a huge grizzly bear. The possession of this uncouth or- nament is considered among them, a great honor, since none but those whose prowess has enabled them to kill the animal, are al- lowed to wear it, and with their weak and inefiicicnt weapons.

134 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the destruction of so fierce and terrible a brute, is a feat that may well entitle them to some distinction.

We remained two hours at the spot where we halted, and then passed on about four miles, accompanied by the chief and his people, to their camp, where we pitched our tents for the night. In a short time the Indians came to us in great numbers, with bundles of dried salmon in their arms, and a few recent ones. We commenced our trading immediately, giving them in exchange, fish-hooks, beads, knives, paint, &c., and before evening, had procured sufficient provision for the consumption of our party until we arrive at the falls of Snake river, where we are told we shall meet the Bannecks, from whom we can doubtless trade a supply, which will serve us until we reach Walla-walla.

While we were pursuing our trade, Richardson and Mr. Ash- worth rode into the camp, and I observed by the countenance of the latter, that something unusual had occurred. I felt very certain that no ordinary matter would be capable of ruffling this calm, intrepid, and almost fool-hardy young man ; so it was with no little interest that I drew near, to listen to the tale which he told Captain W. with a face flushed with unusual anger, while his whole person seemed to swell with pride and disdain.

He said that while riding about five miles behind the party, (not being able to keep up with it on account of his having a worn out horse,) he was attacked by about fifty of the Indians whom we passed earlier in the day, dragged forcibly from his horse and thrown upon the ground. Here, some held their knives to his throat to prevent his rising, and others robbed him of his saddle bags, and all that they contained. While he was yet in this unpleasant situation, Richardson came suddenly upon them, and the cowardly Indians released their captive instantly, throw- ing the saddle bags and every thing else upon the ground, and flying like frightened antelopes over the plain. The only real damage that Mr. Ashworth sustained, was the total loss of his

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 135

saddle bags, which were cut to pieces by the knives of the In- dians, in order to abstract the contents. These, however, we think he deserves to lose, inasmuch, as with all our persuasion, we have never been able to induce him to carry a gun since we left the country infested by the Blackfeet ; and -to-day, the very show of such a weapon would undoubtedly have prevented the attack of which he complains.

Richardson gives an amusing account of the deportment of our young English friend while he was lying under the knives his captors. The heavy whip of buffalo hide, which was his only weapon, was applied with great energy to the naked backs and shoulders of the Indians, who winced and stamped under the infliction, but still feared to use their knives, except to prevent his rising. Richardson, says, that until he approached closely, the blows were descending in rapid succession, and our hunter was in some danger of losing his characteristic dignity in his efforts to repress a loud and hearty laugh at the extreme ludi- crousness of the whole scene.

Captain W., when the circumstances of the assault were stated to him, gave an immediate order for the suspension of business, and calling the chief to him, told him seriously, that if an attempt were again made to interrupt any of his party on their march, the offenders should be tied to a tree and whipped severely. He enforced his language by gestures so expressive that none could misunderstand him, and he was answered by a low groan from the Indians present, and a submissive bowing of their heads. The chief appeared very much troubled, and harangued his peo- ple for considerable time on the subject, repeating what the cap- tain had said, with some additional remarks of his own, implying that even a worse, fate than whipping would be the lot of future delinquents.

22d. — Last night during the second guard, while on my walk

136 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

around the camp, I observed one of my men squatted on the ground, intently surveying some object which appeared to be moving among the horses. At his request, I stooped also, and could distinctly perceive something near us which was cer- tainly not a horse, and yet was as certainly a living object. I supposed it to be either a bear or a wolf, and at the earnest solici- tation of the man, I gave the word " fire." The trigger was in- stantly pulled, the sparks flew from the flint, but the rifle was not exploded. At the sound, an Indian sprang from the grass where he had been crouching, and darted away towards the Snake camp. His object certainly was to appropriate one of our horses, and very fortunate for him was it that the gun missed fire, for the man was an unerring marksman. This little warning will probably check other similar attempts by these people.

Early in the morning I strolled into the Snake camp. It con- sists of about thirty lodges or wigwams, formed generally of branches of trees tied together in a conic summit, and covered with buflalo, deer, or elk skins. Men and little children were lolling about the ground all around the wigwams, together with a heterogeneous assemblance of dogs, cats, some tamed prairie wolves, and other "tjarmnits." The dogs growled and snapped when I approached, the wolves cowered and looked cross, and the cats ran away and hid themselves in dark corners. They had not been accustomed to the face of a white man, and all the quadrupeds seemed to regard me as some monstrous produc- tion, more to be feared than loved or courted. This dislike, however, did not appear to extend to the bipeds, for many of every age and sex gathered around me, and seemed to be exam- ining me critically in all directions. The men looked compla- cently at me, the women, the dear creatures, smiled upon me, and the little naked, pot-bellied children crawled around my feet, examining the fashion of my hard shoes, and playing with the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 137

long fringes of my leathern inexpressibles. But I scarcely know how to commence a description of the tout en sernble of the camp, or to frame a sentence which will give an adequate idea of the extreme filth, and most horrific nastiness of the whole vicinity. I shall therefore but transiently glance at it, omitting many of the most disgusting and abominable features.

Immediately as I entered the village, my olfactories were as- sailed by the most vile and mephitic odors, which I found to pro- ceed chiefly from great piles of salmon entrails and garbage which were lying festering and rotting in the sun, around the very doors of the habitations. Fish, recent and half dried, were scat- tered all over the ground, under the feet of the dogs, wolves and Indian children; and others which had been split, were hanging on rude platforms erected within the precincts of the camp. Some of the women were making their breakfast of the great red salmon eggs as large as peas, and using a wooden spoon to convey them to their mouths. Occasionally, also, by way of varying the repast, they would take a huge pinch of a drying fish which was lying on the ground near them. Many of the children were similarly employed, and the little imps would also have hard contests with the dogs for a favorite morsel, the former roaring and blubbering, the latter yelping and snarling, and both rolling over and over together upon the savory soil. The whole economy of the lodges, and the inside and outside appearance, was of a piece with every thing else about them — filthy beyond description — the very skins which covered the wigwams were black and stiff with rancid salmon fat, and the dresses, (if dresses they may be called) of the women, were of the same color and consistence, from the same cause. These dresses are little square pieces of deer skin, fastened with a thong around the loins, and reaching about half way to the knees ; the rest of the person is entirely naked. Some of the women had little children clinging like bull- frogs to their backs, without being fastened, and in that situation

18

138 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

extracting their lactiferous sustenance from the breast, which was thrown over the shoulders.

It is ahiaost needless to say, that I did not remain long in the Snake camp; for although I had been a considerable time estranged from the abodes of luxury, and had become somewhat accustomed to, at least, a partial assimilation to a state of nature, yet I was not prepared for what I saw here. I never had fancied any thing so utterly abominable, and was glad to escape to a purer and more wholesome atmosphere.

When I returned to our camp, the trading was going on as briskly as yesterday. A large number of Indians were assembled around, all of whom had bundles of fish, which they were anxious to dispose of. The price of a dried salmon is a straight awl, and a small fish hook, value about one cent ; ten fish are given for a common butcher knife that costs eight cents. Some, however, Avill prefer beads, paint, &c., and of these articles, about an equal amount in value is given. A beaver skin can be had for a variety of little matters, which cost about twelve and a half cents ; value, in Boston, from eight to ten dollars !

Early in the afternoon, we repacked our bales of goods and rode out of the encampment, the Indians yelling an adieu to us as we passed them. We observed that one had wrapped a buffalo robe around him, taken a bow and arrows in his hand, and joined us as we went off'. Although we travelled rapidly during the afternoon, the man kept with us without apparent over-exertion or fatigue, trotting along constantly for miles together. He is probably on a visit to a village of his people who are encamped on the " Big river."

2Sd. — Towards noon, to-day, we fell in with a village, con- sisting of thirty willow lodges of Bannecks. The Indians flocked out to us by hundreds, leaving their fishing, and every other employment, to visit the strangers. The chief soon made him- self known to us, and gave us a pressing invitation to stop a

ACROSS TlIK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC 139

short time with them, for the purpose of trade. Although we had a good supply of fish on hand, and did not expect soon to suffer from want, yet we knew not but we might be disappointed in procuring provision lower in the country, and concluded, therefore, to halt for half an hour, and make a small increase to our stock. We were in some haste, and anxious to travel on as quickly as possible, to Snake river. Captain W., therefore, urged the chief to have the fish brought immediately, as he in- tended soon to leave them. The only reply he could obtain to this request, was " te saiit," (it is good,) accompanied by signs, that he wished to smoke. A pipe was provided, and he, with about a dozen of his young men, formed a circle near, and con- tinued smoking, with great tranquillity, for half an hour.

Our patience became almost exhausted, and they were told that if their fish were not soon produced, we should leave them empty as we came ; to this, the only answer of the chief was a sign to us to remain still, while he deliberated yet farther upon the subject.

We sat a short time longer in silent expectation, and were thr3n preparing to mount our horses and be off, wlien several squaws were despatched to one of the lodges. They returned in a few minutes, bringing about a dozen dried fish. These were laid in small piles on the ground, and when the usual price was offered for them, they refused it scornfully, making the most exorbitant demands. As our articles of trade were running low, and we were not in immediate want, we purchased only a suffi- ciency for one day, and pi'epared for our departure, leaving the ground strewn with the neglected salmon. The Indians were evidently very much irritated, as we could perceive by their angry countenances, and loud words of menace. Some loosed the bows from their shoulders, and shook them at us with vio- lent gestures of rage, and a boy, of seventeen or eighteen years of age, who stood near mc, struck my horse on the head with a

140 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY

stick, which he held in his hand. This provoked me not a little; and spurring the animal a kw steps forward, I brought my heavy whip several times over his naked shoulders, and sent him screeching into the midst of his people. Several bows were drawn at me for this act, and glad would the savages have been to have had me for a short time at their mercy, but as it was, they feared to let slip their arrows, and soon dropped their points, contenting themselves with vaporing away in all the im- potence of childish rage. As we rode off, they greeted us, not with the usual gay yell, but with a scornful, taunting laugh, that sounded like the rejoicings of an infernal jubilee. Had these people been provided with efficient arms, and the requisite amount of courage to use them, they might have given us some inconvenience.

Towards evening, we arrived on Snake river, crossed it at a ford, and encamped near a number of lodges along the shore. Shortly afterwards, Captain W., with three men, visited the In- dians, carrying with them some small articles, to trade for fish. In about half an hour they returned, bringing only about ten salmon. They observed, among the Indians, the same disincli- nation to traffic that the others had manifested; or rather, like the first, they placed a higher value than usual upon the commodity, and wanted, in exchange, articles which we were not willing to spare them. They treated Captain W. with the same inso- lence and contempt which was so irritating from those of the other village.

This kind of conduct is said to be unusual among this tribe, but it is probably now occasioned by their having recently pur- chased a supply of small articles from Captain Bonneville, who, they inform us, has visited them within a few days.

Being desirous to escape from the immediate vicinity of the village, we moved our camp about four miles further, and stopped for the night.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 141

24cth. — The sudden and entire change from flesh exclusively, to fish, ditto, has affected us all, more or leSs, with diarrhoea and pain in the abdomen ; several of the men have been so extremely sick, as scarcely to be able to travel ; we shall, however, no doubt, become accustomed to it in a few days.

We passed, this morning, over a flat country, very similar to that along the Platte, abounding in wormwood bushes, the pulpy- leaved thorn, and others, and deep with sand, and at noon stopped on a small stream called Malheur''s creek.

Here a party of nine men was equipped, and despatched up the river, and across the country, on a trapping expedition, with orders to join us early in the ensuing winter, at the fort on the Columbia. Richardson was the chief of this party, and when I grasped the hand of our worthy hunter, and bade him farewell, I felt as though I were taking leave of a friend. I had become particularly attached to him, from the great simplicity and kind- ness of his heart, and his universally correct and proper deport- ment. I had been accustomed to depend upon his knowledge and sagacity in every thing connected with the wild and roving life which I had led for some months past, and I felt that his absence would be a real loss, as well to myself, as to the whole camp, which had profited so much by his dexterity and skill.

Our party will now consist of only seventeen men, but the number is amply sufficient, as we have passed over the country where danger is to be apprehended from Indians. We followed the course of the creek during the afternoon, and in the evenino; encamped on Snake river, into which Malheur empties. The river is here nearly a mile wide, but deep and clear, and for a considerable distance, perfectly navigable for steamboats, or even larger craft, and it would seem not improbable, that at some dis- tant day, these facilities, added to the excellence of the alluvial soil, should induce the stout and hardy adventurers of our country to make permanent settlements here.

142 NAUR ATI VE OF A JOURNEY

1 have not observed that the Indians often attempt fishing in the " big river," where it is wide and deep ; they generally pre- fer the slues, creeks, &c. Across these, a net of closely woven willows is stretched, placed vertically, and extending from the bottom to several feet above the surface. A number of Indians enter the water about a hundred yards above the net, and, walking closely, drive the fish in a body against the wicker work. Here they frequentl)^ become entangled, and are always checked ; the spear is then used dexterously, and .they are thrown out, one by one, upon the shore. With industry, a vast number of salmon might be taken in this manner; but tlie In- dians are generally so indolent and careless of the future, that it is rare to find an individual with provision enough to supply his lodge for a week.

25th. — Early in the day the country assumed a more hilly as- pect. The rich plains were gone. Instead of a dense growth of willow and the balsam poplar, low bushes of wormwood, &c., predominated, intermixed with the tall, rank prairie grass.

Towards noon, we fell in with about ten lodges of Indians, (Snakes and Bannecks,) from whom we purchased eighty sal- mon. This has put us in excellent spirits. We feared that we had lost sight of the natives, and as we had not reserved half the requisite quantity of provisions for our support to the Columbia, (most of our stock having been given to Richardson's trapping party,) the prospect of several days abstinence seemed very clear before us.

In the afternoon, we deviated a little from our general course, to cut off a bend in the river, and crossed a short, high hill, a part of an extensive range which we have seen for two days ahead, and which we suppose to be in the vicinity of Powder river, and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 143

in the evening encamped in a narrow valley, on the borders of the Shoshone.

26th. — Last night I had the misfortune to lose my favorite, and latterly my only riding horse, the other having been left at Fort Hall, in consequence of a sudden lameness, with which he became afflicted only the night before our departure.* The animal was turned out as usual, with the others, in the evening, and as I have never known him to stray in a single instance, I conclude that some lurking Indian has stolen him. It was the fattest and handsomest horse in the band, and was no doubt care- fully selected, as there was probably but a single Indian, who was unable to take more, for fear of alarming the guard. This is the most serious loss I have met with. The animal was par- ticularly valuable to me, and no consideration would have induced me to part with it here. It is, however, a kind of accident that we are always more or less liable to in this country, and as a search would certainly be fruitless, must be submitted to with as good a grace as possible. Captain W. has kindly offered me the use of horses until we arrive at Columbia.

We commenced our march early, travelling up a broad, rich valley, in which we encamped last night, and at the head of it, on a creek called Brule, we found one family, consisting of five Snake Indians, one man, two women, and two children. They had evidently but very recently arrived, probably only last nifht, and as they must certainly have passed our camp, we feel little hesitation in believing that my lost horse is in their posses- sion. It is, however, impossible to prove the theft upon them in

* I afterwards ascertained tliat this lameness of my " buffalo horse," was inten- tionallj' caused by one of the hopeful gentry left in charge of the fort, for the pur- [)0se of rendering the animal unable to travel, and as a consequence, confining him to the fort at the time of our departure. The good qualities of the horse as a buf- falo racer, were universally known and appreciated, and I had repeatedly refused large sums for him, from those who desired him for ihis purpose.

144 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

any way, and time is not allowed us to search the premises. We cannot even question them concerning it, as our interpreter, McCarey, left us with the trapping party.

We bought, of this family, a considerable quantity of dried choke-cherries, these being the only article of commerce which they possessed. This fruit they prepare by pounding it with stones, and drying it in masses in the sun. It is then good tasted, and somewhat nutritive, and it loses, by the process, the whole of the astrihgency which is so disagreeable in the recent fruit.

Leaving the valle)'^, we proceeded over some high and stony hills, keeping pretty nearly the course of the creek. The tra- velling was, as usual in such places, difficult and laborious, and our progress necessarily slow and tedious. Throughout the day, there was no change in the character of the country, and the consequence was, that three of our poor horses gave up and stopped.

21th. — This.morning, two men were left at the camp, for the purpose of collecting and bringing on, moderately, the horses left yesterday, and others that may hereafter fail. We were obliged to leave with them a stock of provision greater in proportion than our own rather limited allowance, and have thus somewhat diminished our chance of performing the remainder of the jour- ney with satisfied appetites, but there is some small game to be found on the route, grouse, ducks, &c., and occasionally a beaver may be taken, if our necessities are pressing. We made a noon camp on Brule, and stopped at night in a narrow valley, between the hills.

2Qth. — Towards noon to-day, we lost the trail among the hills, and although considerable search was made, we were not able to find it again. We then directed our course due north, and at 2 o'clock struck Powder river, a narrow and shallow stream, plentifully fringed with willows'. We passed down this

ACROSS THE ROCKV^ MOUNTAINS, ETC. 145

river for about five miles and encamped. Captain W. imme- diately left us to look for the lost trail, and returned in about two hours, with the information that no trace of it could be found. He therefore concludes that it is up stream, and to-mor- row we travel back to search for it in that direction. Our men killed, in the afternoon, an antelope and a deer fawn, which were particularly acceptable to us; we had been on an allowance of one dried salmon per day, and we had begun to fear that even this poor pittance would fail before we could obtain other provi- sion. Game has been exceedingly scarce, with the exception of a few grouse, pigeons, &c. We have not seen a deer, antelope, or any other quadruped larger than a hare, since we left the confines of the buffalo country. Early this morning, one of our men, named Flubbard, left us to hunt, and as he has not joined us this evening, we fear he is lost, and feel some anxiety about him, as he has not been accustomed to finding his way through the pathless wilds. He is a good marksman, however, and will not suffer much for food ; and as he knows the general course, he will probably join us at Walla-walla, if we should not see him earlier.

29th. — We commenced our march early this morning, follow- ing the river to a point about six miles above where we struck it yesterday. We then took to the hills, steering N. N. W., — it being impossible, from the broken state of the country, to keep the river bank.

Soon after we commenced the ascent, we met with difficulties in the shape of high, steep, banks, and deep ravines, the ground being thickly strewed with sharp, angular masses of lava and ba- salt. As we proceeded, these difficulties increased to such a de- gree, as to occasion a fear that our horses could never proceed. The hills at length became like a consolidated mass of irregular rock, and the small strips of earthy matter that ocasionally ap- peared, were burst into wide fissures by the desiccation to which

19

146 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the country at this season is subject. Sometimes, as we ap- proached the verges of the cliffs, we could see the river winding its devious course many hundred feet below, rushing and foam- ing in eddies and whirlpools, and fretting against the steep sides of the rocks, which hemmed it in. These are what are called the cut-rocks, the sides of which are in many places as smooth and regular as though they had been worked with the chisel, and the opening between them, through which the river flows, is fre- quently so narrow that a biscuit might be thrown across it.

We travelled over these rocks until 1 o'clock in the day, when we stopped to rest in a small ravine, where we found a little water, and pasture for our horses. At 3, we were again on the move, making across the hills towards the river, and after a long, circuitous march, we arrived on its banks, considerably wearied, and every horse in our band lamed and completely exhausted. We have not yet found any clue to the trail for which we have been searching so anxiously ; indeed it would be im- possible for a distinguishable trace to be left over these rugged, stony hills, and the difficulty of finding it, or determining its di- rection is not a little increased by a dense fog which constantly envelopes these regions, obscuring the sun, and rendering it im- possible to see an object many hundred yards in advance.

The next day we were still travelling over the high and steep hills, which, fortunately for our poor horses, were far less stony than hitherto. At about noon we descended to the plain, and struck the river in the midst of a large level prairie. We proceeded up stream for an hour, and to our great joy suddenly came in sight of a broad, open trail stretching away to the S. W. We felt, in some degree, the pleasure of a sailor who has found the port of which he has been long and anxiously in search. We made a noon camp here, at which we remained two hours, and then travelled on in fine spirits over a beautiful, level, and unobstructed country. Our horses seemed to participate in our

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 147

feelings, and trotted on briskly, as though they too rejo iced in the opportunity of escaping the dreaded hills and rocks. To- wards evening we crossed a single range of low hills and came to a small round prairie, with good water and excellent pasture. Here we found a family of Kayouse Indians, and encamped within sight of them. Two squaws from this family, visited us soon after, bringing some large kamas cakes and fermented roots, which we purchased of them.

31sf. — Our route this morning, was over a country generally level and free from rocks ; we crossed, however, one short, and very steep mountain range, thickly covered with tall and heavy pine trees, and came to a large and beautiful prairie, called the Grand ronde. Here we found Captain Bonneville's company, which has been lying here several days, waiting the arrival of its trapping parties. We made a noon camp near it, and were visited by Captain Bonneville. This was the first time I had seen this gentleman. His manners were atfable and pleasing, and he seemed possessed of a large share of bold, adventurous, and, to a certain extent, romantic spirit, without which no man can expect to thrive as a mountain leader. He stated that he preferred the " free and easy" life of a mountain hunter and trapper, to the comfortable and luxurious indolence of a dweller in civilized lands, and would not exchange his homely, but wholesome mountain fare, and his buffalo lodge, for the most piquant dishes of the French artiste, and the finest palace in the land. This came well from him, and I was pleased with it, althoush I could not altogether agree with him in sentiment, for I confess I had become somewhat weary of rough travelling and rough fare, and looked forward with no little pleasure to a long rest under a Christian roof, and a general participation in Christian living.

With the captain, came a whole troop of Indians, Kayouse,

148 NAKRATIVE OF A JOUR>'EY

Nez Perces, 6jc. They were very friendly towards us, each of the chiefs taking us by the hand with great cordiality, appearing pleased to see us, and anxious to point out to us the easiest and most expeditious route to the lower country. These Indians are, almost universally, fine looking, robust men, with strong aqualine features, and a much more cheerful cast of countenance than is usual amongst the race. Some of the women might almost be called beautiful, and none that I have seen are homely. Their dresses are generally of thin deer or antelope skin, with occa- sionally a boddice of some linen stuffs, purchased from the whites, and their whole appearance is neat and cleanly, forming a very striking contrast to the greasy, filthy, and disgusting Snake females. I observed one young and very pretty looking woman? dressed in a great superabundance of finery, glittering with rings and beads, and flaunting in broad bands of scarlet cloth. She was mounted astride, — Indian fashion, — upon a fine bay horse, whose head and tail were decorated with scarlet and blue ribbons, and the saddle, upon which the fair one sat, was ornamented all over with beads and little hawk's bells. This damsel did not do us the honor to dismount, but seemed to keep warily aloof, as though she feared that some of us might be inordinately fascinated by her fine person and splendid equipments, and her whole de- portment proved to us, pretty satisfactorily, that she was no common beauty, but the favored companion of one high in office, who was jealous of her slightest movement.

After making a hasty meal, and bidding adieu to the captain, and our friendly Indian visitors, we mounted our horses, and rode off. About half an hour's brisk trotting brought us to the foot of a steep and high mountain, called the Blue. This is said to be the most extensive chain west of the dividing ridge, and, with one exception, perhaps the most difficult of passage^ The whole mountain is densely covered with tall pine trees, with

ACSOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 149

an undergrowth of service bushes and other shrubs, and the path is strewed, to a very inconvenient degree, with volcanic rocks. In some of the ravines we find small springs of water; they are, however, rather rare, and the grass has been lately consumed, and many of the trees blasted by the ravaging fires of the In- dians. These fires are yet smouldering, and the smoke from them effectually prevents our viewing the surrounding country, and completely obscures the beams of the sun. We travelled this evening until after dark, and encamped on a small stream in a gorge, where we found a plot of grass that had escaped the burning.

September 1st. — Last evening, as we were about retiring to our beds, we heard, distinctly, as we thought, a loud halloo, several times repeated, and in a tone like that of a man in great distress. Supposing it to be a person who had lost his way in the darkness, and was searching for us, we fired several guns at regular intervals, but as they elicited no reply, after waiting a considerable time, we built a large fire, as a guide, and lay down to sleep.

Early this morning, a large panther was seen prowling around our camp, and the hallooing of last night Avas explained. It was the dismal, distressing yell by which this animal entices its prey, until pity or curiosity induces it to approach to its destruction. The panther is said to inhabit these forests in considerable num- bers, and has not unfrequently been known to kill the horses of a camp. He has seldom the temerity to attack a man, unless sorely pressed by hunger, or infuriated by wounds.

150 NARRATIVK OF A JOURNEV

CHAPTER IX.

Passage of the Blue Mountains— Sufferings from thirst— Utalla river— A transformation— A novel meal— Walla-walla river— Columbia river and Fort Walla-walla — 1 dinner with the missionaries — inecdote of Mr. Lee— A noble repast— Brief notice of the Fort— Departure of the missionaries— JVotice of the Walla-walla Indians— Departure for Fort Vancouver-Wild ducks- Indian graves— Indian horses— Visits from Indians— Ophthalmia, a prevalent disease— Hough travelling— A company of Chinook Indians— The Dalles— The party joined by Captain Wyeth— Embarkation in canoes — 4 heavy gale— Dangerous navigation— Pusillanimous conduct of an Indian helms- man—A zealous botanist— Departure of Captain Wyeth with five men- Cascades— A portage— Meeting rvith the missionaries— Loss of a canoe— A toilsome duty — Arrival at Fort Vancouver —reflections suggested by it— Dr. John McLoughlin, the chief factoi — Domiciliation of the travellers at Fort Vancouver.

September 1st.— The path through the valley, in which we encamped last night, was level and smooth for about a mile; we then mounted a short, steep hill, and began immediately to descend. The road down the mountain wound constantly, and we travelled in short, zig-zag lines, in order to avoid the extremely abrupt decli- vities; but occasionally, we were compelled to descend in places that made us pause before making the attempt : they were, some of them, almost perpendicular, and our horses would frequently slide several yards, before they could recover. To this must be added enormous jagged masses of rock, obstructing the road in many places, and pine trees projecting their horizontal branches across the path.

The road continued, as I have described it, to the valley in the plain, and a full hour was consumed before we reached it.

k

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 151

The country then became comparatively level again to the next range, where a mountain was to be ascended of the same height as the last. Here we dismounted and led our horses, it being impracticable, in their present state, to ride them. It was the most toilsome march I ever made, and we were all so much fatigued, when we arrived at the summit, that rest was as indispensable to us as to our poor jaded horses. Here we made a noon camp, with a handful of grass and no water. This last article appears very scarce, the ravines affording none, and our dried salmon and kamas bread were eaten unmoistened. The route, in the after- noon, was over the top of the mountain, the road tolerably level, but crowded with stones. Towards evening, we commenced • descending again, and in every ravine and gulley we cast our anxious eyes in search of water ; we even explored several of them, where there appeared to exist any probability of success, but not one drop did we find. Night at length came on, dark and pitchy, without a moon or a single star to give us a ray of light; but still we proceeded, depending solely upon the vision and sagacity of our horses to keep the track. We travelled steadily until about 9 o'clock, when we saw ahead the dark out- line of a high mountain, and soon after heard the men who rode in front, cry out, joyously, at the top of their voices, " water ! xcater r It was truly a cheering sound, and the words were echoed loudly by every man in the company. We had not tasted water since morning, and both horses and men have been suffering considerably for the want of it.

2«i. — Captain W. and two men, left us early this morning for Walla-walla, where they expect to arrive this evening, and send us some provision, of which we shall be in need, to-morrow.

Our camp moved soon after, under the direction of Captain Thing, and in about four miles reached Utalla river, where it stopped, and remained until 12 o'clock.

As we were approaching so near the abode of those in whose

152 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

eyes wc vvislied to appear like fellow Christians, we concluded that there would be a propriety in attempting to remove at least one of the heathenish badges which we had worn throughout the journey; so Mr. N.'s razor was fished out from its hiding place in the bottom of his trunk, and in a few minutes our encumbered chins lost their long-cherished ornaments ; we performed our ablutions in the river, arrayed ourselves in clean linen, trimmed our long hair, and then arranged our toilet before a mirror, with great self-complacence and satisfaction. I admired my own appearance considerably, (and this is, probably, an acknowledge- ment that few would make,) but I could not refrain from laugh- ing at the strange, party-colored appearance of my physiognomy, the lower portion being fair, like a woman's, and the upper, brown and swarthy as an Indian.

Having nothing prepared for dinner to-day, I strolled along the stream above the camp, and made a meal on rose buds, of which I collected an abundance ; and on returning, I was sur- prised to find Mr. N. and Captain T. picking the last bones of a bird which they had cooked. Upon inquiry, I ascertained that the subject was an unfortunate owl which I had killed in the morning, and had intended to preserve, as a specimen. The temptation was too great to be resisted by the hungry Captain and naturalist, and the bird of wisdom lost the immortality which he might otherwise have acquired.

In the afternoon, soon after leavinjj the Utalla, we ascended #; a high and very steep hill, and came immediately in view^ beautiful, and regularly undulating country of great extent, ""^e' have now probably done with high, rugged mountains ; the sun shines clear, the air is bracing and elastic, and we are all in fine spirits.

The next day, the road being generally level, and tolerably free from stones, we were enabled to keep our horses at the swiftest gate to which we dare urge them. We have been some-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 153

what disappointed in not receiving the expected supplies from Walla-walla, but have not suffered for provision, as the grouse and hares are very abundant here, and we have shot as many as we wished.

At about noon we struck the Walla-walla river, a very pretty stream of fifty or sixty yards in width, fringed with tall willows, and containing a number of salmon, which we can see frequently leaping from the water. The pasture here, being good, we al- lowed our horses an hour's rest to feed, and then travelled on over the plain, until near dark, when, on rising a sandy hill, the noble Columbia burst at once upon our view. I could scarcely repress a loud exclamation of delight and pleasure, as I gazed upon the magnificent river, flowing silently and majesti- cally on, and reflected that I had actually crossed the vast Ame- rican continent, and now stood upon a stream that poured its waters directly into the Pacific. This, then, was the great Ore- gon, the first appearance of which gave Lewis and Clark so many emotions of joy and pleasure, and on this stream our in- defatigable countrymen wintered, after the toils and privations of a long, and protracted journey through the wilderness. My re- verie was suddenly interrupted by one of the men exclaiming from his position in advance, " there is the fort." We had, in truth approached very near, without being conscious of it. There stood the fort on the bank of the river; horses and horned cattle were roaming about the vicinity, and on the borders of the _ .>r^ Jittle Walla-walla, we recognised the white tent of our long lost missionaries. These we soon joined, and were met and received by them like brethren. Mr. N. and myself were invited to sup with them upon a dish of stewed hares which they had just pre- pared, and it is almost needless to say that we did full justice to the good men's cookery. They told us that they had travelled comfortably from Fort Hall, without any unusual fatigue, and

like ourselves, had no particularly stirring adventures. Their

20

154 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

route, although somewhat longer, was a much less toilsome and difficult one, and they suffered but little for food, being well pro- vided with dried buffalo meat, which had been prepared near Fort Hall.

Mr. Walker, (a j'oung gentleman attached to the band,) re- lated an anecdote of Mr. Lee, the principal, which I thought eminently characteristic. The missionaries were, on one occa- sion, at a considerable distance behind the main body, and had stopped for a few moments to regale themselves on a cup of milk from a cow which they weie driving. Mr. L. had unstrapped the tin pan from his saddle, and was about applying himself to the task, when a band of a dozen Indians was descried at a dis- tance, approaching the little party at full gallop. There was but little time for consideration. The rifles were looked to, the horses were mounted in eager haste, and all were ready for a long run, except Mr. Lee himself, who declared that nothing should deprive him of his cup of milk, and that he meant to " lighten the old cow before he moved." He accordingly pro- ceeded coolly to fill his tin pan, and, after a hearty drink, grasped his rifle, and mounted his horse, at the very moment that the Indians had arrived to within speaking distance. To the great relief of most of the party, these proved to be of the friendly Nez Perce tribe, and after a cordial greeting, they tra- velled on together.

The missionaries informed us that they had engaged a large barge to convey themselves and baggage to Fort Vancouver, and that Captain Stewart and Mr. Ashworth were to be of the party. Mr. N. and myself were very anxious to take a seat with them, but to our disappointment, were told that the boat would scarcely accommodate those already engaged. We had therefore to re- linquish it, and prepare for a journey on horseback to the Dalles, about eighty miles below, to which place Captain W. would

I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 1^^

precede us in the barge, and engage canoes to convey us to the lower fort.

This evening, we purchased a large bag of Indian meal, of which we made a kettle of mush, and mixed with it a con- siderable quantity of horse tallow and salt. This was, I think, one of the best meals I ever made. We all ate heartily of it, and pronounced it princely food. We had been long without bread stuff of any kind, and the coarsest farinaceous substance, with a proper allowance of grease, would have been highly prized.

The next morning, we visited Walla-walla Fort, and were introduced, by Captain W., to Lieutenant Pierre S. Pambrun, the superintendent. Wyeth and Mr. Pambrun had met before, and were well acquainted; they had, therefore, many reminis- cences of by-gone days to recount, and long conversations, rela- tive to the variety of incidents which had occurred to each, since last they parted.

The fort is built of drift logs, and surrounded by a stoccade of the same, with two bastions, and a gallery around the inside. It stands about a hundred yards from the river, on the south bank, in a bleak and unprotected situation, surrounded on every side by a great, sandy plain, which supports little vegetation, except the wormwood and thorn-bushes. On the banks of the little river, however, there are narrow strips of rich soil, and here Mr. Pambrun raises the few garden vegetables necessary for the support of his family. Potatoes, turnips, carrots, &c., thrive well, and Indian corn produces eighty bushels to the acre.

At about 10 o'clock, the barge got under way, and soon after, our company with its baggage, crossed the river in canoes, and encamped on the opposite shore.

There is a considerable number of Indians resident here, Kayouse's and a collateral band of the same tribe, called Walla-

156 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

wallas. They live along the bank of the river, in shantys or wigwams of drift wood, covered with buffalo or deer skins. They are a miserable, squalid looking people, are constantly lolling around and in the fort, and annoy visitors by the impor- tunate manner in which they endeavor to force them into some petty trade for a pipe, a hare, or a grouse. All the industrious and enterprising men of this tribe are away trading salmon, kamas root, &c. to the mountain companies.

Notwithstanding the truly wretched plight in which these poor people live, and the privations which they must necessarily have to suffer, they are said to be remarkably honest and upright in their dealings, and generally correct in their moral deportment. Although they doubtless have the acquisitive qualities so characteristic of the race, they are rarely known to violate the principles of common honesty. A man may leave his tent unguarded, and richly stored with every thing which ordinarily excites the cupidity of the Indian, yet, on returning after a long absence, he may find all safe. What a commentary is this on the habits and conduct of our Christian communities !

The river is here about three-fourths of a mile in width, — a clear, deep, and rapid stream, the current being generally from three to four miles an hour. It is the noblest looking river I have seen since leaving our Delaware. The banks are in many places high and rocky, occasionally interrupted by broad, level sandy beaches. The only vegetation along the margin, is the wormwood, and other low, arid plants, but some of the bottoms are covered with heavy, rank grass, affording excellent pasture for horses.

5th. — This morning we commenced our march down the Colum- bia. We have no provision with us except flour and horse tallow, but we have little doubt of meeting Indians daily, with whom we can trade for fish. Our road will now be a rather monotonous one

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. l-'j?

along the bank of the river, tolerably level, but often rocky, so that very rapid travelling is inadmissible. The mallard duck, the widgeon, and the green-winged teal are tolerably abundant in the little estuaries of the river. Our men have killed several, but they are poor, and not good.

Gth. — We have observed to-day several high, conical stacks of drift-wood near tlie river. These are the graves of the Indians. Some of these cemeteries are of considerable extent, and probably contain a great number of bodies. I had the curiosity to peep into several of them, and even to remove some of the coverings, but found nothing to compensate for the trouble. We bought some salmon from Indians whom we met to day, which, with our flour and tallow, enable us to live very comfortably.

nth. — We frequently fall in with large bands of Indian horses. There are among them some very beautiful animals, but they are generally almost as wild as deer, seldom permitting an approach to within a hundred yards or more. They generally have owners, as we observe upon many of them strange hieroglyphic looking characters, but there are no doubt some that have never known the bit, and will probably always roam the prairie uncontrolled. When the Indians wish to catch a horse from one of these bands, they adopt the same plan pursued by the South Americans for taking the wild animal.

8th. — Our road to-day has been less monotonous, and much more hilly than hitherto. Along the bank of the river, are high mountoins, composed of basaltic rock and sand, and along their bases enormous drifts of the latter material. Large, rocky pro- montories connected with these mountains extend into the river to considerable distances, and numerous islands of the same dot its surface.

We arc visited frequently as wc travel along, by Indians of

158 ' NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the Walla-walla and other tribes, whose wigwams we see on the opposite side of the river. As we approach these rude huts, the inhabitants are seen to come forth in a body ; a canoe is im- mediately launched, the light bark skims the water like a bird, and in an incredibly short time its inmates are with us. Some- times a few salmon are brought to barter for our tobacco, paint, &c., but more frequently they seem impelled to the visit by mere curiosity. To-day a considerable number have visited us, and among them some very handsome young girls. I could not but admire the gaiety and cheerfulness which seemed to animate them. They were in high spirits, and evidently very much pleased with the unusual privilege which they were enjoying.

At our camp in the evening, eight Walla-walla's came to see us. The chief was a remarkably fine looking man, but he, as well as several of his party, was suffering from a severe puru- lent ophthalmia which had almost deprived him of sight. He pointed to his eyes, and contorting his features to indicate the pain he suffered, asked me by signs to give him medicine to cure him. I was very sorry that my small stock of simples did not contain anything suited to his complaint, and I endeavored to tell him so. I have observed that this disease is rather prevalent among the Indians residing on the river, and I understood from the chiefs signs that most of the Indians towards the lower country were similarly affected.

9th. — The character of the country has changed considerably §ince we left Walla-walla. The river has become gradually more narrow, until it is now but about two hundred yards in width, and completely hemmed in by enormous rocks on both sides. Many of these extend for considerable distances into the stream in perpendicular columns, and the water dashes and breaks against them until all around is foam. The current is here very swift, probably six or seven miles to the hour; and the

ACKOSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 159

Indian canoes in passing down, seem literally to fy along its surface. The road to-day has been rugged to the very last degree. We have passed over continuous masses of sharp rock for hours together, sometimes picking our way along the very edge of the river, several hundred feet above it ; again, gaining the back land, by passing through any casual chasm or opening in the rocks, where we were compelled to dismount, and lead our horses.

This evening, we are surrounded by a large company of Chinook Indians, of both sexes, whose temporary wigwams arc on the bank of the river. Many of the squaws have young children served up in the usual Indian fashion, wrapped in a skin, and tied firmly to a board, so that nothing but the head of the little individual is seen.

These Indians are very peaceable and friendly. They have no weapons except bows, and these are used more for amusement and exercise, than as a means of procuring them sustenance, their sole dependence being fish and beaver, with perhaps a few hares and grouse, which are taken in traps. We traded with these peo- ple for a ^ew fish and beaver skins, and some roots, and before we retired for the night, arranged the men in a circle, and gave them a smoke in token of our friendship.

lOth. — This afternoon we reached the Dalles. The entire water of the river here flows through channels of about fifteen feet in width, and between high, perpendicular rocks ; there are several of these channels at distances of from half a mile to one mile apart, and the water foams and boils through them like an enormous cauldron.

On the opposite side of the river there is a large Indian village, belonging to a chief named Tilki, and containing probably five hundred wigwams. As we approached, the natives swarmed like bees to the shore, launched their canoes, and joined us in a few

160 NARRATIVE OF A JOURjVEY

minutes. We were disappointed in not seeing Captain W, here, as this was the spot where we expected to meet him ; the chief, however, told us that we should find him about twelve miles below, at the next village. We were accordingly soon on the move again, and urging our horses to their fastest gait, we arrived about sunset. The captain, the chief of the village, and several other Indians, came out to meet us and make us welcome. Captain W. has been here two days, and we were pleased to 'earn that he had completed all the necessary arrangements for transporting ourselves and baggage to Vancouver in canoes. The route by land is said to be a very tedious and difficult one, and, in some places, almost impassable, but even were it other- wise, I believe we should all much prefer the water conveyance, as we have become very tired of riding.

Since leaving the upper village this afternoon, we have been followed by scores of Indians on foot and on horseback ; some of the animals carrying three at a time; and although we tra- velled rapidly, the pedestrians were seldom far behind us.

We have concluded to leave our horses here, in charge of the chief of the village, who has promised to attend to them during the winter, and deliver them to our order in the spring. Captain W. having been acquainted with this man before, is willing to trust him.

llth. — Early this morning, we launched our three canoes, and each being provided with an Indian, as helmisman, we ap- plied ourselves to our paddles, and were soon moving briskly down the river. In about an hour after, the wind came out dead ahead, and although the current was in favor, our progress was sensibly checked. As we proceeded, the wind rose to a heavy gale, and the waves ran to a prodigious height. At one moment our frail bark danced upon the crest of a wave, and at the next, fell with a surge into the trough of the sea, and as we looked at the swell before us, it seemed that in an instant we

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 161

must inevitably be engulphed. At such times, the canoe ahead of us was entirely hidden from view, but she was observed to rise again like a seagull, and hurry on into the same danger. The Indian in my canoe soon became completely frightened ; he frequently hid his face with his hands, and sang, in a low melancholy voice, a prayer which we had often heard from his people, while at their evening devotions. As our dangers were every moment in- creasing, the man became at length absolutely childish, and with all our persuasion and threats, we could not induce him to lay his paddle into the water. We were all soon compelled to put in shore, which we did without sustaining any damage ; the boats were hauled up high and dry, and we concluded to remain in our quarters until to morrow, or until there was a cessation of wind. In about an hour it lulled a little, and Captain W. ordered the boats to be again launched, in the hope of being able to weather a point about five miles below, before the gale again commenced, where we could lie by until it should be safe to proceed. The calm proved, as some of us had suspected, a treacherous one ; in a very few minutes after we got under way, we were con- tending with the same difficulties as before, and again our cow- ardly helmsman laid by his paddle and began mumbling hi? prayer. It was too irritating to be borne. Our canoe had swung round broad side to the surge, and was shipping gallons of water at every dash.

At this time it was absolutely necessary that every man on board should exert himself to the utmost to head up the canoe and make the shore as soon as possible. Our Indian, however, still sat with his eyes covered, the most abject and contemptible looking thing I ever saw. We took him by the shoulders and threatened to throw him overboard, if he did not immediately lend his assistance : we might as well have spoken to a stone. He was finally aroused, however, by our presenting a loaded

gun at his breast ; he dashed the muzzle away, seized his paddle

21

162 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

again, and worked with a kind of desperate and wild energy, until he sank back in the canoe completely exhausted. In the mean time the boat had become half full of water, shipping a part of every surf that struck her, and as we gained the shallows every man sprang overboard, breast deep, and began hauling the canoe to shore. This was even a more difficult task than that of propelling her with the oars ; the water still broke over her, and the bottom was a deep kind of quicksand, in which we sank almost to the knees at every step, tlie surf at the same time dashing against us with such violence as to throw us repeatedly upon our faces. We at length reached the shore, and hauled the canoe up out of reach of the breakers. She was then un- loaded as soon as possible, and turned bottom upwards. The goods had suffered considerably by the wetting; they were all unbaled and dried by a large fire, which we built on the shore.

We were soon visited by several men from the other boats, which were ahead, and learned that their situation had been almost precisely similar to our own, except that their Indians had not evinced, to so great a degree, the same unmanly terror which had rendered ours so inefficient and useless. They were, however, considerably frightened, much more so than the white men. It would seem strange that Indians, who have been born, and have lived during their whole lives, upon the edge of the water, who have been accustomed, from infancy, to the manage- ment of a canoe, and in whose childish sports and manly pas- times these frail barks have always been employed, should ex- hibit, on occasions like this, such craven and womanly fears ; but the probability is, as their business is seldom of a very urgent nature, that they refrain from making excursions of any con- siderable extent in situations known to be dangerous, except during calm weather ; it is possible, also, that such gales may be rare, and they have not been accustomed to them. Immediately after we landed, our redoubtable helmsman broke away from us,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 163

and ran at full speed back towards the village. We have doubt- less lost him entirely, but we do not much regret his departure, as he proved himself so entirely unequal to the task he had undertaken.

I2th. — The gale continues with the same violence as yes- terday, and we do not therefore think it expedient to leave our camp. Mr. N.'s large and beautiful collection of new and rare plants was considerably injured by the wetting it received ; he has been constantly engaged since we landed yesterday, in opening and drying them. In this task he exhibits a degree of patience and perseverance which is truly astonishing ; sitting on the ground, and steaming over the enormous fire, for hours to- gether, drying the papers, and re-arranging the whole collection, specimen by specimen, while the great drops of perspiration roll unheeded from his brow. Throusrhout the whole of our lonaf journey, I have had constantly to admire the ardor and perfect indefatigability with which he has devoted himself to the grand object of his tour. No difficulty, no danger, no fatigue has ever daunted him, and he finds his rich reward in the addition of nearly a thousand new species of American plants, which he has been enabled to make to the already teeming flora of our vast continent. My bale of birds, which was equally exposed to the action of the water, escaped without any material injury.

In the afternoon, the gale not having abated, Captain W. be- came impatient to proceed, as he feared his business at Vancou- ver would suffer by delay ; he accordingly proposed taking one canoe, and braving the fury of the elements, saying that he wished five men, who were not afraid of water, to accompany him. A dozen of our fearless fellows volunteered in a moment, and the captain selecting such as he thought would best suit his purpose, lost no time in launching his canoe, and away she went over the foaming waters, dashing the spi'ay from her bows, and la- boring through the heavy swells until she was lost to our view.

164 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

The more sedate amongst us did not much approve of this some- what hasty measure of our principal ; it appeared like a useless and daring exposure of human life, not warranted by the exigen- cies of the case. Mr. N. remarked that he would rather lose all his plants than venture his life in that canoe.

On the 13th the wind shifted to due north, and was blowing somewhat less furiously than on the previous day. At about noon we loaded our canoes, and embarked ; our progress, how- ever, during the afternoon, was slow ; the current was not rapid, and the wind was setting up stream so strongly that we could not make much headway against it ; we had, also, as before, to contend with turbulent waves, but we found we could weather them with much less difficulty, since the change of the wind. '

I4:th. — Before sunrise, a light rain commenced, which in- creased towards mid-day to a heavy shower, and continued steadily during the afternoon and night. There was, in the morning, a dead calm, the water was perfectly smooth, and dis- turbed only by the light rain pattering upon its surface. We made an early start, and proceeded on very expeditiously until about noon, when we arrived at the " cascades," and came to a halt above them, near a small Indian village. These cascades, or cataracts are formed by a collection of large rocks, in the bed of the river, which extend, for perhaps half a mile. The cur- rent for a short distance above them, is exceedingly rapid, and there is said to be a gradual fall, or declivity of the river, of about twenty feet in the mile. Over these rocks, and across the whole river, the watei dashes and foams most furiously, and with a roar which we heard distinctly at the distance of several miles.

It is wholly impossible for any craft to make its nCay through these difficulties, and our light canoes would not live an instant in them. It is, therefore, necessary to make a portage, either by carrying the canoes over land to the opposite side of the cataracts, or by wading in the water near the shore, where the surges are

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 165

lightest, and dragging the unloaded boat through them by a cable. Our people chose the latter method, as the canoes felt very heavy and cumbersome, being saturated with the rain which was still falling rapidly. They were accordingly immediately unloaded, the baggage placed on the shore, and the men entered the water to their necks, headed by Captain Thing, and addressed them- selves to the troublesome and laborious task. In the meantime, Mr, N., and myself were sent ahead to take the best care of ourselves that our situation and the surroundins; circumstances permitted. We found a small Indian trail on the river bank, which we followed in all its devious windings, up and down hills, over enormous, piles of rough flinty rocks, through brier bushes, and pools of water, &c. &c., for about a mile, and descending near the edge of the river, we observed a number of white men who had just succeeded in forcing a large barge through the torrent, and were then warping her into still water near the shore. Upon ap- proaching them more closely, we i-ecognised, to our astonishment, our old friend Captain Stewart, with the good missionaries, and all the rest who left us at Walla-walla on the 4th. Poor fellows! Every man of them had been over breast deep in water, and the rain, which was still falling in torrents, was more than sufficient to drench what the waves did not cover, so that they were most abundantly soaked and bedraggled. I felt sadly inclined to laugh heartily at them, but a single glance at the sorry appear- ance of myself and my companion was sufficient to check the feeling. We joined them, and aided in kindling a fire to warm and dry ourselves a little, as there was not a dry rag on us, and we were all in an ague with cold. After a very considerable time, we succeeded in igniting the wet timber, and had a tolerably large fire. We all seated ourselves on the ground around it, and related our adventures. They had, like ourselves, suffered somewhat from the head-wind and heavy swells, but unlike us they had a craft that would weather it easily ; even they, how-

'■■y

166 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

eveH, shipped some water, and made very little progress for the last two days. They informed us that Captain W.'s canoe had been dashed to pieces on the rocks above, and that he and all his crew were thrown into the water, and forced to swim for their lives. They all escaped, and proceeded down the river, this morning, in a canoe, hired of the Indians here, one of whom accompanied them, as pilot.

After a hasty meal of fish, purchased on the spot, our friends reloaded their boat and got under way, hoping to reach Vancou- ver by next morning. Mr. N. and myself remained some time longer here, expecting intelligence from our people behind; we had begun to feel a little uneasy about them, and thought of re- turning to look into their situation, when Captain T. came in haste towards us, with the mortifying intelligence that one canoe had been stove upon the rocks, and the other so badly split, that he feared she would not float ; the latter was, however, brought on by the men, and moored where we had stopped. A man was then despatched to an Indian village, about five miles below, to endeavor to procure one or two canoes and a pilot. In the mean time, we had all to walk back along the circuitous and almost impassable Indian trail, and carry our wet and heavy baggage from the spot where the boats had been unloaded. The distance, as I have stated, was a full mile, and the road so rough and encumbered as to be scarcely passable. In walking over many of the large and steep rocks, it was often necessary that the hands should be used to raise and support the body ; this, with a load, was inconvenient. Again, in ascending and de- scending the steep and slippery hills, a single mis-step was cer- tain to throw us in the mud, and bruise us upon the sharp rocks which were planted all around. This accident occurred several times with us all.

Over this most miserable of all roads, with the cold rain dash- ing and pelting upon us durmg the whole time, until we felt as

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC^ lf57

though we were frozen to the very marrow, did we all have to travel and return four separate times, before our baggage was properly deposited. It was by far the most fatiguing, cheerless, and uncomfortable business in which I was ever engaged, and truly glad was I to lie down at night on the cold, wet ground, wrapped in my blankets, out of which I had just wrung the water, and I think I never slept more soundly or comfortably than that night.*

I arose the next morning rested and refreshed, though some- what sore from sundry bruises received on the hills to which I have alluded.

15th. — The rain still continued falling, but lightly, the weather calm and cool. The water immediately below the cascades foams and boils in a thousand eddies, forming little whirlpools, which, however insignificant they may appear, are exceedingly dangerous for light canoes, whirling their bows around to the current, and capsising them in an instant. Near the shore, at the foot of the cataract, there is a strong backward tow, through which it is necessary to drag the canoe, by a line, for the dis- tance of a hundred yards ; here it feels the force of the opposite current, and is carried on at the rate of seven or eight miles to the hour.

The man whom we sent yesterday to the village, returned this morning ; he stated that one canoe only could be had, but that three Indians, accustomed to the navigation, would accom- pany us ; that they would soon be with us, and endeavor to re- pair our damaged boat. In an hour they came, and after the necessar}'- clamping and caulking of our leaky vessel, we loaded, and were soon moving rapidly down the river. The rain ceased about noon, but the sun did not appear during the day.

* 1 could not but recollect at that time, the last injunction of my dear old grand- mother, not to sleep in damp beds ! !

168 NARKAtlVE OF A JOtJKNEY

lath. — The day was a delightful one ; the sky was robed in a large flaky cumulus, the glorious sun occasionally bursting through among the clouds, with dazzling splendor. We rose in the morning in fine spirits, our Indians assuring us that " King George," as they called the fort, was but a short distance from us. At about 11 o'clock, we arrived, and stepped on shore at the end of our journey.

It is now three days over six months since I left my beloved home. I, as well as the rest, have been in some situations of dan- ger, of trial, and of difficulty, but I have passed through them all unharmed, with a constitution strengthened, and invigorated by healthful exercise, and a heart which I trust can feel deeply, sincerely thankful to that kind and overruling Providence who has watched over and protected me.

We have passed for months through a country swarming with Indians who thirsted for our blood, and whose greatest pride and glory consisted in securing the scalp of a white man. Enemies, sworn, determined enemies to all, both white and red, who in- trude upon his hunting grounds, the Blackfoot roams the prairie like a wolf seeking his prey, and springing upon it when unpre- pared, and at the moment when it supposes itself most secure. To those who have always enjoyed the comforts and security of civilized life, it may seem strange that persons who know them- selves to be constantly exposed to such dangers — who never lie down at night without the weapons of death firmly grasped in their hands, and who are in hourly expectation of hearing the terrific war whoop of the savage, should yet sleep soundly and refreshingly, and feel themselves at ease ; such however is the fact. I never in my life enjoyed rest more than when travel- ling through the country of which I speak. I had become accustomed to it : I felt constant apprehension certainly, but not to such an extent as to deprive me of any of the few comforts which I could command in such an uncomfortable country. The

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 169

guard might pass oiu' tent, and cry " all's well," in his loudest key, without disturbing my slumbers : but if the slightest unusual noise occurred, I was awake in an instant, and listening painfully for a repetition of it.

On the beach in front of the fort , we were met by Mr. Lee, the missionary, and Dr. John McLoughlin, the chief factor, and Governor of the Hudson's Bay posts in this vicinity. The Dr. is a large, dignified and very noble looking man, with a fine ex- pressive countenance, and remarkably bland and pleasing manners. The missionary introduced Mr. N. and myself in due form, and we were greeted and received with a frank and unassuming politeness which was most peculiarly grateful to our feelings. He requested us to consider his house our home, provided a separate room for our use, a servant to wait upon us, and furnished us with every convenience which we could possibly wish for. I shall never cease to feel grateful to him for his disinterested kindness to the poor houseless and travel-worn strangers.

22

170 AAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

' CHAPTER X.

Fort Vancouver — JlgricuUural and other improvements — Vancouver " camp^' — approach of the rainy season — Expedition to the Wallammet — The falls — ^1 village of KUkatat Indians — JManner of flattening the head — A Flathead infant — Brig " JMarj Dacre^' — Preparations for a settlement — Success of the natvralists — Chinook Indians — their appearance and costume — ^flgue and fever — Superstitious dread of the Indians — Desertion of the Sandvjich Islanders from Captain TTyeth^s party — Embarkation for a trip to the Islands — George, the Indian pilot — Mount Coffin — A visit to the tombs — Su- perstition— Visit to an Indian house — Fort George — Site of Astoria — A blind Indian buy — Cruel and unfeeling conduct of the savages — their moral character — Baker's Bay — Cape Disappointment — Dangerous bar at the en- trance of the river — The sea beach — Visit of Mr. Ogden — Passage across the bar — Sea birds — Landsmen at sea — A spei-m. whale — Albatrosses, SJc. — Tro- pic birds A "school" of tihales — Dolphins— Make the Sandwich Islands —

Oahu— A rhapsody.

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north bank of the Co- himbia on a large level plain, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. The space comprised within the stoccade is an oblong square, of about one hundred, by two hundred and fifty feet. The houses built of loers and frame-work, to the number of ten or twelve, are ranged around in a quadrangular form, the one occu- pied by the doctor being in the middle. In front, and enclosed on three sides by the buildings, is a large open space, where all the in-door work of the establishment is done. Here the Indians assemble with their multifarious articles of trade, beaver, otter, venison, and various other game, and here, once a week, several scores of Canadians are employed, beating the furs which have been collected, in order to free them from dust and vermin.

ACUOSS THE ROCKVT MOUNTAINS, ETC. 171

Mr. N. and myself walked over the farm with the doctor, to inspect the various improvements which he has made. He has already several hundred acres fenced in, and under cultivation, and like our own western prairie land, it produces abundant crops, particularly of grain, without requiring any manure. Wheat thrives astonishingly ; I never saw better in any country, and the various culinary vegetables, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, &c., are in great profusion, and of the first quality. Indian corn does not flourish so well as at Walla-walla, the soil not being so well adapted to it; melons are well flavored, but small ; the greatest curiosity, however, is the apples, which grow on small trees, the branches of which would be broken without the support of props. So profuse is the quantity of fruit that the limbs are covered with it, and it is actually packed together precisely in the same manner that onions are attached to ropes when they are exposed for sale in our markets.

On the farm is a grist mill, a threshing mill, and a saw mill, the two first, by horse, and the last, by water power; besides many minor improvements in agricultural and other matters, which cannot but astonish the stranger from a civilized land, and which reflect great credit upon the liberal and enlightened chief factor.

In the propagation of domestic cattle, the doctor has been par- ticularly successful. Ten years ago a few head of neat cattle were brought to the fort by some fur traders from California ; these have now increased to near seven hundred. They are a large framed, long horned breed, inferior in their milch qualities to those of the United States, but the beef is excellent, and in consequence of the mildness of the climate, it is never necessary to provide them with fodder during the winter, an abundant sup- ply of excellent pasture being always found.

On the farm, in the vicinity of the fort, are thirty or forty log huts, v/hich are occupied by the Canadians, and others attached

172 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

to the establishment. These huts are placed in rows, with broad lanes or streets between them, and the whole looks like a very neat and beautiful village. The most fastidious cleanliness appears to be observed ; the women may be seen sweeping the streets and scrubbing the door-sills as regularly as in our own proverbially cleanly city.*

Sunday, Septetnber 25th. — Divine service was performed in the fort this morning by Mr. Jason Lee. This gentleman and his nephew had been absent some days in search of a suitable place to establish themselves, in order to fulfil the object of their mission. They returned yesterday, and intend leaving us to- morrow with their suite for the station selected, which is upon the Wallammet river, about sixty miles south of the fort.

In the evening we were gratified by the arrival of Captain Wyeth from below, who informed us that the brig from Boston, which was sent out by the company to which Wyeth is attached, had entered the river, and was anchored about twenty miles below, at a spot called Warrior's point, near the western entrance of the Wallammet.

Captain W. mentioned his intention to visit the Wallammet country, and seek out a convenient location for a fort which he wishes to establish without delay, and Mr. N. and myself accept- ed an invitation to accompany him in the morning. He has brought with him one of the brig's boats, and eight oarsmen, five of whom are Sandwich Islanders.

We have experienced for several days past, gloomy, lowering, and showery weather; indeed the sun has scarcely been seen for

* I have given this notice of the suburbs of the fort, as I find it in mj- journal written at the time; I had reason, subsequently, to change ray opinion with regard to the scrupulous cleanliness of the Canadians' Indian wives, and particularly after inspecting the internal economy of the dwellings. What at first struck me as neat and clean, by an involuntary comparison of it with the extreme filthincss to which I had been accustomed amongst the Indians, soon revealed itself in its proper light, and I can freely confess that my first estimate was too high.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 173

a week pasn This is said to indicate the near approach of the rainy season, which usually sets in about the middle of October, or even earlier. After this time, until December, there is very little clear weather, showers or heavy clouds almost constantly prevailing.

On the 29th, Captain Wyeth, Mr. N., and myself, embai'ked in the ship's boat for our exploring excursion. We had a good crew of fine robust sailors, and the copper-colored islanders, — or Kanakas, as they are called, — did their duty with great alacrity and good will.

At about five miles bolow the fort, we entered the upper mouth of the Wallammet. This river is here about half the width of the Columbia, a clear and beautiful stream, and navigable for large vessels to the distance of twenty-five miles. It is covered with numerous islands, the largest of vvhich is that called Wappatoo Island, about twenty miles in length. The vegetation on the main land is good, the timber generally pine and post oak, and the river is margined in many places with a beautiful species of willow with lai-ge ob-lanceolate leaves like those of the peach, and white on their under surface. The timber on the islands is chiefly oak, no pine growing there. At about 10 o'clock we overtook three men whom Captain W. had sent ahead in a canoe and we all landed soon after on the beach and dined on a mess of salmon and peas which we had provided. We were under way again in the afternoon, and encamped at about sunset. We have as yet seen no suitable place for an establishment, and to-morrow we proceed to the falls of the river, about fifteen miles further. Almost all the land in the vicinity is excellent and well calculated for cultivation, and several spots which we have visited, would be admirably adapted to the captain's views, but that there is not a sufficient extent unincumbered, or which could be fitted for the purposes of tillage in a space of time short enough

174 NARRATIVi: or A JOURNEY

to be serviceable ; others arc at some seasons inundated, which is an insurmountable objection.

We embarked early the next morning, and at 11 o'clock arrived at the falls, after encountering some difficulties from rapids, through which we had to warp our boat. There are here three falls on a line of rocks extending across the river, which forms the bed of the upper channel. The water is precipitated through deep abrazed gorges, and falls perhaps forty feet at an angle of about twenty degrees. It was a beautiful sight when viewed from a distance, but it became grand and almost sublime as we approached it nearer. I mounted the rocks and stood over the highest fall, and although the roar of the cataract was almost deafening, and the rays of the bright sun reflected from the white a glittering foam threatened to deprive me of sight, yet I became so absoi'bed in the contemplation of the scene, and the reflections which were involuntarily excited, as to forget every thing else for the time, and was only aroused by Captain W. tapping me on the shoulder, and telling me that every thing was arranged for our return. While I visited the falls, the captain and his men had found what they sought for ; and the object of our voyage being accomplished, we got on board immediately and shaped our course down the river with a fair wind, and the current in favor.

About two miles bel^w the cataract is a small village of Klikatat Indians. Their situation does not appear different from what we have been accustomed to see in the neighborhood of the fort. They live in the same sort of miserable loose hovels, and are the same wretched, squalid looking people. Although enjoying far more advantages, and having in a much greater degree the means of rendering themselves comfortable, yet their mode of living, their garments, their wigwams, and every thing connected with them, is not much better than the Snakes and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 175

Bannecks, and very far inferior to that fine, noble-looking race, the Kayouse, whom wc met on the Grand ronde.

A custom prevalent, and almost universal amongst these In- dians, is that of flattening, or mashing in the whole front of the skull, from the superciliary ridge to the crown. The appearance produced by this unnatural operation is almost hideous, and one would suppose that the intellect would be materially affected by it. This, however, does not appear to be the case, as I have never seen, (with a single exception, the Kayouse,) a race of people who appeared more shrewd and intelligent. I had a con- versation on this subject, a few days since, with a chief who speaks the English language. He said that he had exerted him- self to abolish the practice in his own tribe, but although his peo- ple would listen patiently to his talk on most subjects, their ears weie firmly closed when this was mentioned ; " they would leave the council fire, one by one, until none but a few squaws and children were left to drink in the words of the chief." It is even considered among them a degradation to possess a round head, and one whose caput has happened to be neglected in his infancy, can never become even a subordinate chief in his tribe, and is treated with indifference and disdain, as one who is unworthy a place amongst them.

The flattening of the head is practiced by at least ten or twelve distinct tribes of the lower country , the Klikatats, Kalapooyahs, and Multnomahs, of the Wallarnmet, and its vicinity ; the Chi- nooks, Klatsaps, Klatstonis, Kowalitsks, Katlammets, Killemooks, and Chekalis of the lower Columbia and its tributaries, and pro- bably by others both north and south. The tribe called Flat- heads, or Salish, who reside near the sources of the Oregon, have long since abolished this custom.

The mode by which the flattening is effected, varies consider- ably with the different tribes. The Wallarnmet Indians {dace the infant, soon afier birth, upon a board, to the edges of which

176 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

are attached little loops of hempen cord or leather, and other similar cords are passed across and back , in a zig-zag manner, through these loops, enclosing the child, and binding it firmly- down. To the upper edge of this board, in which is a depression to receive the back part of the head, another smaller one is attached by hinges of leather, and made to lie obliquely upon the forehead, the force of the pressure being regulated by several strings attached to its edge, which are passed through holes in the board upon which the infant is lying, and secured there.

The mode of the Chinooks, and others near the sea, differs widely from that of the upper Indians, and appears somewhat less barbarous and cruel. A sort of cradle is formed by exca- vating a pine log to the depth of eight or ten inches. The child is placed in it on a bed of little grass mats, and bound down in the manner above described. A little boss of tightly plaited and woven grass is then applied to the forehead, and secured by a cord to the loops at the side. The infant is thus suffered to remain from four to eight months, or until the sutures of the skull have in some measure united, and the bone become solid and firm. It is seldom or never taken from the cradle, except in case of severe illness, until the flattening process is completed.

I saw, to-day, a young child fi'om whose head the board had just been removed. It was, without exception, the most frightful and disgusting looking object that I ever beheld. The whole front of the head was completely flattened, and the mass of brain being forced back, caused an enormous projection there. The poor little creature's eyes protruded to the distance of half an inch, and looked inflamed and discolored, as did all the sur- rounding parts. Although I felt a kind of chill creep over me from the contemplation of such dire deformity, yet there was something so stark-staring, and absolutely queer in the physiog- nomy, that I could not repress a smile; and when the mother amused the little object and made it laugh, it looked so irresist-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 177

fbly, SO terribly ludicrous, that I and those who were with me, burst into a simultaneous roar, which frightened it and made it cry, 'in which predicament it looked much less horrible than before.

On the 1st, of November we arrived at the brig. She was moored, head and stern, to a large rock near the lower mouth of the Wallammet. Captain Lambert with his ship's company, and our own mountain men, were all actively engaged at various employments; carpenters, smiths, coopers, and other artisans were busy in their several vocations ; domestic animals, pigs, sheep, goats, poultry, &c., were roaming about as if perfectly at home, and the whole scene looked so like the entrance to a country village, that it was difficult to fancy oneself in a howling wilderness inhabited only by the wild and improvident Indian, and his scarcely more free and fearless neighbors, the bear and the wolf. An excellent temporary storehouse of twigs, thatched with grass, has been erected, in which has been deposited the ex- tensive assortment of goods necessary for the settlement, as well as a number of smaller ones, in which the men reside. It is intend- ed as soon as practicable, to build a large and permanent dwelling of logs, which will also include the store and trading establishment, and form the groundwork for an American fort on the river Columbia.

bth. — Mr. N. and myself are now residing on board the brig, and pursuing with considerable success our scientific researches through the neighborhood. I have shot and prepared here several new species of birds, and two or three undescribed quadj^upeds, besides procuring a considerable number, which, though known to naturalists, are rare, and therefore valuable. My companion is of course in his element ; the forest, the plain, the rocky hill, and the mossy bank yield him a rich and most abundant supply.

23

178 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

We are visited daily by considerable numbers of Chinook and Klikatat Indians, many of whom bring us provisions of various kinds, salmon, deer, ducks, &c., and receive in return, powder and shot, knives, paint, and Indian rum, i. e. rum and water in the propoi-tion of one part of the former to two of the latter. Some of these Indians would be handsome were it not for the abominable practice, which, as I have said, is almost universal amongst them, of destroying the form of the head. The features of many are regular, though often devoid of expres- sion, and the persons of the men generally are rather symme- trical ; their stature is low, with light sinewy limbs, and remark- ably small delicate hands. The women are usually more rotund, and, in some instances, even approach obesity. The principal clothing worn by them is a sort of short petticoat made of Strang of pine bark or twisted hempen strings, tied around the loins like a marro. This article they call a kalaquarte; and is often their only dress ; some, however, cover the shoulders with a blanket, or robe made of muskrat or hare skins sewed together.

A disease of a very fatal character is prevalent among these Indians ; many of them have died of it ; even some of those in the neighborhood of the fort, where medical assistance was always at hand. The symptoms are a general coldness, soreness and stiffness of the limbs and body, with violent tertian ague. Its fatal termination is attributable to its tendency to attack the liver, which is generally affected in a few days after the first symptoms are developed. Several of the white people attached to the fort have been ill with it, but no deaths have oc- curred amongst them, the disease in their case having yielded to the simple tonic remedies usually employed at home. This I have no doubt would be equally the case with the Indians, were they

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 179

willing to submit to proper restrictions during the time of admi- nlsterino; medicine.

Captain Lambert informs me that on his first landing here the Indians studiously avoided his vessel, and all kind of intercourse with his crew, from the supposition, (which they have since ac- knowledged) that the malady which they dread so much was thus conveyed. As in a short time it became desirable, on account of procuring supplies of provision, to remove this impression, some pains were taken to convince the Indians of their error, and they soon visited the ship without fear.

Mr. N. and myself have been anxious to escape the wet and disagreeable winter of this region, and visit some other portion of the country, where the inclemency of the season will not inter- fere with the prosecution of our respective pursuits. After some reflection and consultation, we concluded to take passage in the brig, which will sail in a k\v weeks for the Sandwich Islands. We shall remain there about three months, and return to the river in time to commence our peregrinations in the spring.

2Sd. — At Fort Vancouver. A letter was received yesterday by Dr. McLoughlin, from Captain Wycth, dated Walla-walla, stating that the twelve Sandwich Islanders whom he took with him a week since for a journey to Fort Hall, had deserted, each taking a horse. They had no doubt heard from some of their countrymen, whom they met at the fort, of the difficulties of the route before them, which were probably very much exaggerated. Captain W. is on the alert to find them, and is sending men on their trail in every direction, but it is more than probable that they will not be overtaken, and the consequence will then be, that the expedition must be abandoned, and the captain return to the fort to spend the winter.

December Sd, — Yesterday Mr. N. and myself went down the river to the brig, and this morning early the vessel left her

180 NARRATIVE OF A JOTJRNEV

moorings, and with her sails unloosed stood out into the channel way. The weather was overcast, and we had but little wind, so that our progress during the morning was necessarily slow. In the afternoon we ran aground in one and a half fathoms water, but as the tide was low, we were enabled to get her clear in the evening. The navigation of this river is particularly difficult in consequence of numerous shoals and sand bars, and good pilots are scarce, the Indians alone officiating in that capacity. To- wards noon the next day, a Kowalitsk Indian with but one eye, who said his name was George, boarded us, and showed a letter which he carried, written by Captain McNeall, in the Hudson's Bay service, recommending said George as a capable and expe- rienced pilot. We accepted his services gladly, and made a bar- gain with him to take us into Baker's bay near the cape, for four bottles of rum; with the understanding, however, that every time the brig ran aground, one bottle of the precious liquor was to be forfeited. George agreed to the terms, and taking his station at the bow, gave his orders to the man at the wheel like one having authority, pointing with his finger when he wished a de- viation from the common course, and pronouncing in a loud voice the single word ookook, (here.)

On the afternoon of the 4th, we passed along a bold precipi- tous shore, near which we observed a large isolated rock, and on it a great number of canoes, deposited above the reach of the tides. This spot is called Mount Coffin, and the canoes contain the dead bodies of Indians. They are carefully wrapped in blankets, and all the personal property of the deceased, bows and arrows, guns, salmon spears, ornaments, 6z;c., are placed within, and around his canoe. The vicinity of this, and all other ceme- teries, is held so sacred by the Indians, that they never approach it, except to make similar deposites ; they will often even travel a considerable distance out of their course, in order to avoid in- truding upon the sanctuai'y of their dead.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 181

We came to anchor near this rock in the evening, and Captain Lambert, Mr. N., and myself visited the tombs. We were espe- cially careful not to touch or disarrange any of the fabrics, and it was well we were so, for as we turned to leave the place, we found that we had been narrowly watched by about twenty In- dians, whom we had not seen when we landed from our boat. After we embarked, we observed an old withered crone with a long stick or wand in her hand, who approached, and walked over the ground which we had defiled with our sacrilegious tread, waving her enchanted rod over the mouldering bones, as if to purify the atmosphere around, and exorcise the evil spirits which we had called up.

I have been very anxious to procure the skulls of some of these Indians, and should have been willing, so far as I alone was concerned, to encounter some risk to effect my object, but I have refrained on account of the difficulty in which the ship and crew would be involved, if the sacrilege should be discovered ; a prejudice might thus be excited against our little colony which would not soon be overcome, and might prove a serious injury.

6th. — The weather is almost constantly rainy and squally, making it unpleasant to be on deck ; we are therefore confined closely to the cabin, and are anxious to get out to sea as soon as possible, if only to escape this.

In the afternoon, the captain and myself went ashore in the long-boat, and visited several Indian houses upon the beach. These are built of roughly hewn boards and logs, usually covered with pine bark, or matting of their own manufacture, and open at the top, to allow the smoke to escape. In one of these houses we found men, women, and children, to the number of fifty-two, seated as usual, upon the ground, around numerous fires, the smoke from which filled every cranny of the building, and to us was almost stifling, although the Indians did not appear to suffer

182 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

any inconvenience from it. Although living in a state of the most abject poverty, deprived of most of the absolute necessaries of life, and frequently enduring the pangs of protracted starva- tion, yet these poor people appear happy and contented. They are scarcely qualified to enjoy the common comforts of life, even if their indolence did not prevent the attempt to procure them.

On the afternoon of the 8th, we anchored off Fort George, as it is called, although perhaps it scarcely deserves the name of a fort, being composed of but one principal house of hewn boards, and a number of small Indian huts surrounding it, presenting the appearance, from a distance, of an ordinary small farm house with its appropriate outbuildings. There is but one white man residing here, the superintendent of the fort ; but there is probably no necessity for more, as the business done is not very consider- able^ most of the furs being taken by the Indians to Vancouver. The establishment is, however, of importance, independent of its utility as a trading post, as it is situated within view of the dangerous cape, and intelligence of the arrival of vessels can be communicated to the authorities at Vancouver in time for them to render adequate assistance to such vessels by supplying ihem with pilots, 6z;c. This is the spot where once stood the fort established by the direction of our honored countryman, John Jacob Astor. One of the chimneys of old Fort Astoria is still standing, a melancholy monument of American enterprise and domestic misrule. The spot where once the fine parterre over- looked the river, and the bold stoccade enclosed the neat and substantial fort, is now overgrown with weeds and bushes, and can scarce be distinguished from the primeval forest which surrounds it on every side.

Captain Lambert, Mr. N. and myself visited the Indian houses in the neighborhood. In one of them we saw a poor little boy about three years of age who had been blind from his birth. He

I

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY 183

was sitting on the gi'ound near the fire, surrounded by a quantity of fish bones which he had been picking. Our sympathy was very much excited for the poor little unfortunate, particularly as he was made a subject for the taunting jibes and laughter of a number of men and women, squatting around, and his mother sat by with the most cruel apathy and unconcern, and only smiled at the commiseration which we expressed for her innocent and peculiarly unhappy offspring. It seems difficult to believe that those who possess the form and countenance of human creatures, should so debase the natural good feelings which God has im- planted in them : but these ignorant and gross v/retches seemed to take credit to themselves in rendering this afflicted being unhappy, and smiled and looked at each other when we endeavored to infuse a little pity into them. The child had evi- dently been very much neglected, and almost starved, and the little articles which we presented it, (in the hope, that the Indians on seeing us manifest an interest in it, would treat it more ten- derly,) it put to its mouth eagerly, but finding them not eatable, threw them aside in disgust. Oh ! how I wished at that moment for a morsel of bread to give this little famished and neglected creature. We soon left the place, and returned to the brig, but I could think of nothina; durinnj the remainder of the evening but the little blind child, and at night I dreamed I saw it, and it raised its dim and sightless orbs, and stretched out its little emaciated arms towards me, as if begging for a crumb to prevent its starving.

These people, as I have already said, do not appear to possess a particle of natural good feeling, and in their moral character, they are little better than brutes. In the case of the blind boy, they seemed to take pride in tormenting it, and rendering it miserable, and vied with each other in the skill and dexterity with which they applied to it the most degrading and insulting epithets. These circumstances, with others, in regard to their

184 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC.

moral character, which I shall not even mention, have tended very considerably to lower the estimation in which I have always held the red man of the forest, and serve to strengthen the opinion which I had long since formed, that nothing but the intro- duction of civilization, with its good and wholesome laws, can ever render the Indian of service to himself, or raise him from the state of wretchedness which has so long characterized his expiring race.

The next morning, we ran down into Baker's bay, and anchored within gunshot of the cape, when Captain Lambert and my- self went on shore in the boat, to examine the channel, and decide upon the prospect of getting out to sea. This passage is a very dangerous one, and is with reason dreaded by mariners. A wide bar of sand extends from Cape Disappointment to the opposite shore, — called Point Adams, — and with the exception of a space, comprehending about half a mile, the sea at all times breaks furiously, the surges dashing to the height of the mast head of a ship, and with the most terrific roaring. Sometimes the water in the channel is agitated equally with that which covers the whole length of the bar, and it is then a matter of imminent risk to attempt a passage. Vessels have occasion- ally been compelled to lie in under the cape for several weeks, in momentary expectation of the subsidence of the dangerous breakers, and they have not unfrequently been required to stand offshore, from without, until the crews have suffered ex- tremely for food and water. This circumstance must ever form a barrier to a permanent settlement here ; the sands, which com- pose the bar, are constantly shifting, and changing the course and depth of the channel, so that none but the small coasting vessels in the service of the company can, with much safety, pass back and forth.

Mr. N. and myself visited the sea beach, outside the cape, in the hope of finding peculiar marine shells, but although we

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 185

searched assiduously during the morning, we had but little suc- cess. We saw several deer in the thick forest on the side of the cape, and a great number of black shags, or cormorants, flying over the breakers, and resting upon the surf-washed rocks.

On the morning of the 11th, Mr. Hanson, the mate, returned from the shore, and reported that the channel was smooth ; it was therefore deemed safe to attempt the passage immediately. While we were weighing our anchor, we descried a brig steering towards us, which soon crossed the bar, and ran up to within speaking distance. It was one of the Hudson's Bay Company's coasters, and, as we were getting under way, a boat put off from her, and we were boarded by Mr. Ogden, a chief factor from one of the Company's forts on the coast. He informed us that the brig left Naus about the first of October, but had been delayed by contrary winds, and rough, boisterous weather. Thus the voyage which usually requires but about eight days for its perform- ance, occupied upwards of two months. They had been on an allowance of a pint of water per day, and had suffered considerably for fresh provision. Mr. Ogden remained with us but a short time, and we stood out past the cape.

When we entered the channel, the water which had before been so smooth, became suddenly v.ery much agitated, swelling, and roaring, and foaming around us, as if the surges were up- heaved from the very bottom, and as our vessel would fall in the trough of the sea, pitching down like a huge leviathan seeking its native depths, I could not but feel positive, that the enormous Avave, which hung like a judgment over our heads, would inevita- bly engulph us ; but the good ship, like a creature instinct with life, as though she knew her danger, gallantly rose upon it, and but dipped her bows into its crest, as if in scorn of its mighty and irresistible power. This is my first sea voyage, and everything upon the great deep is of course novel and interesting to me.

During the scene which I have just described, although I was

24

186 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

aware of oui- imminent peril, and the tales that I had frequently- heard of vessels perishing in this very spot, and in precisely such a sea, recurred to my mind with some force, yet I could not but feel a kind of secret and wild joy at finding myself in a situation of such awful and magnificent grandeur. I thought of the lines of Shelley, and repeated them to myself in a kind of ecstasy.

" And see'st thou, and hear'st thou, And fear'st thou, and fear'st thou, "■ And ride we not free O'er the terrible sea, I and thou ?"

In about twenty minutes we had escaped all the danger, and found ourselves riding easily in a beautiful placid sea. We set the sails, which had been shortened on the bar, and the gallant vessel feeling the impulse of the wind, rushed aliead as if exulting in the victory she had achieved.

We saw, outside the bar, a great number of birds, of various kinds — ducks of several species, two or three kinds of guillemots, (U?'ia,) — shags, (PJialacrocorax,) among which was a splendid new species,* brown albatross, (^Diomedea fusca,) the common dusky pelican, (P. fuscus,) and numerous Pi'ocellariee, — also, the beautiful marine animal, called Medusa. It is a cartilagi- nous or gummy substance, flattish, and about the size of a man's hand, with a tube projecting from it, expanded or flared out like the end of a clarionet. Within the body, near the posterior part is a large ovate ball, of a bright orange color, resembling the yolk of an ess^.

14^A.— There is to-day a heavy sea running, and we lands- men are affording some merriment to the seasoned crew, by our " lubberly" manner of " fetching away" in our attempts to walk

* See appendix.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC, 187

the deck. I find, for myself, that I must for the present consent to relinquish an erect and dignified carriage, and adopt the less graceful, but safer method of clinging to the rails, &c., to assist locomotion. One thing, however, I cannot but feel thankful for, which is, that I have never felt in the least degree sea sick ; and having so far escaped, I have no apprehension for the future.

Saw, in the afternoon, a large sperm, whale, lazily rolling about a quarter of a mile ahead of the vessel. It occasionally spouted up a stream of water to the height of six or seven feet, but was perfectly quiescent until wc approached near it, when it suddenly sank away and was lost to sight.

20th. — We observe constantly around us several species of dark albatross, pufiins, petrels, &c. They follow closely in our wake, sailing over the svirges with astonishing ease and grace, frequently skimming so near the surface that the eye loses them for an instant between the swells, but at such times they never touch the water, although we not un frequently see them resting upon it.

22d. — The weather has become very mild, the thermometer ranging from 65° to 75°, indicating our approach to the tropics ; and as a further proof of it, we saw, this morning, a beautiful tropic bird, (Ph(Pton.) It sails around the vessel with an easy, graceful sweep, its long train being very conspicuous, and suffi- ciently distinguishing it from a tern, which, in other respects, it closely resembles. Its voice is very much like that of the great tern, {Sterna hirundo,) being a harsh, loud, and gutteral croak, emitted while sailing high, and 'vith its head curved downwards, examining the surface of the sea in search of its finny prey.

SOth. — For the last four or five days we have been making but little headway, having been, occasionally, almost becalmed, and not going at any time more than two, or two and a half knots. The weather is so warm that our upper garments have become uncomfortable, the mean of the thermometer being about

188 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

77^, but we have, for several days past, been favored with cool, refreshing showers in the evening, which tend very much to our comfort.

Saw, this afternoon, in latitude 23° 20' N., longitude 149° 30' W., a " school" of eight or ten sperm, whales. Several passed within twenty yards of the vessel, and we had an excellent opportunity of observing them. They were so near that w^e could distinctly see the expansion of the nostrils as they spouted the brine before them, with a noise like the blowing of a mighty forge. There were among them several calves, which were sporting around their dams, sometimes dashing against them head foremost, and gliding half out of w ater upon the backs of the old ones.

We were followed to-day by several large dolphins. I had' often heard of the surpassing beauty of this fish, but my imagi- nation had never pictured any thing half so splendid as I then witnessed. We were going at about three knots, and the fish easily kept up with us, swimming in the wake without any appa^ rent exertion, or even motion of their fins. At one moment they appeared to be of a clear, uniform grass-green, glistening and sparkling in the waves like emeralds, and in the next, they had changed their color wholly, appearing of an iridescent purple, with large oval spots of green and shining red ; again, they were speckled and striped with all the colors of the rainbow, but without any one appearing predominant, and these changes were going on every minute while they remained near us, which was for the space of half an hour. When caught, and taken from the water, it is said that these changes occur precisely as when in their native element, with scarcely any diminution of brilliancy; and as vitality becomes less active, the variations are less frequent, until the colors finally settle into a dark greenish hue, and the animal is dead.

January 2d, 1835. — This evening at 5 o'clock, we made dis-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 189

tinctly, the head laud of three of the Sandwich group, Hawaii, Maui, and Morokai, being within about eighteen miles of the nearest. We have now light trade winds which bear us at the rate of five knots, and an unusually smooth and placid sea. This, combined with the free, unwavering breeze, is considered by our mariners as a fortunate circumstance for us, particularly, as we shall approach, and perhaps pass the dangerous rocky coast of Maui in the night. It is much more common for vessels to feel the land breeze, as they near it, setting them off shore, while the trades, operating in a contrary direction, they become unmanage- able, and not unfrequently founder upon the rocks. This has been the fate of a number of vessels approaching as we are at present, and our skilful and careful captain, always on the alert and anxious in situations of apprehended danger, is at this moment pacing the quarter-deck, giving directions regarding the manage- ment of the vessel, in tones as firm, and with a decision as prompt as ever; but through it all, he cannot conceal the anxiety under which he is evidently laboring. We passengers consider ourselves perfectly safe under such good guardianship, but can- not help feeling for the captain, who to insure our safety is losing the repose which he absolutely requires.

On the afternoon of the 4th, we ran by several islands, and all within five miles. We could distinctly see the lofty and precipi- tous rocks of the coast, the deep ravines between them, and, by the assistance of our glasses, the green and rich looking vege- tation of the interrupted plains.

At noon next day, we made the island of Oahu, our destination, distant about forty miles. In the evening we were enabled to run, the moon shining brightly, and the atmosphere being unu- sually free from haze. At 10 o'clock we were within a few miles of the island, so that we could distinctly see a number of lights from the huts on the beach ; we let go our anchor off a

190 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

point called Diamond hill ; and soon after, the mountain ranges, and the quiet valleys echoed the report of our pilot gun.

As I leaned over the rail this eveninsj, gazing at the shoi'e on our quarter, with its lofty peaks, and lovely sleeping vales, clearly defined by the light of the full orbed moon, T thought I never had witnessed any thing so perfectly enchanting. The warm breeze which came in gentle puffs from the land, seemed to bear fra- grance on its wings, and to discourse of the rich and sunny climes from which it came. The whole scene was to me like fairy land. I thought of Captain Cook, and fancied his having been here, and gazing with delighted eyes upon the very pros- pect before me, little dreaming, that after all he had endured, he should here be sacrificed by the very people to whom he hoped to prove a benefactor and friend. The noise and bustle on deck, sailors running to and fro making the ship " snug" for harbor, and all the preparations for an arrival, effectually banished my meditations, and I descended to my state room, to sleep away the tedious hours, 'till the morrow should reveal all the new and strange features of the land to which we had come.

ACROSS THE ROOKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 191

CHAPTER XI.

Ilonoruru — J\''ative canoes— Amphibious habits — Captain Charlton, his Britanic J\lajesty''s consul — JMr. Jones, the American consul — reception by him — Desj- cription of the town, and of the natives — Party-colored hair of the luomen — The pagoda — A visit from Rev. Hiram Bingham, the missionary — Opiniotis regarding tlie missionary fraternity — First view of the king, Kauikeaouli — his train — Seaman's chapel — A visit to the native church — Kinau and Keku- anoa — Orderly conduct of the natives durins" worship — Introduction to the king — His fondness for the chase, ayid athletic exercises — JVativefood — Man- ner of eating — The rumi-rumi — its efficacy — A Lu au party — The valley of JVuano — A visit to the Pari — The last battle of Tamehameha—A feast — Manner of cooking — A party of native ladies — An adventure.

Early on the morning of the 5th, Mr. Reynolds, the deputy- pilot, boarded us in a whale boat manned by natives, and accom- panied by two American gentlemen, residents of the town of Ho- noruru, — Captain William S. Hinckley and P. A. Brinsmade, Esq. Our anchor was soon weighed, and with a fine, (tee. wind, we rounded Diamond hill, and passed along a beautiful indenta- tion in the shore, called Waititi bay, within sight of a large coral reef, by which the whole island is surrounded. We very soon came in view of the lovely, sylvan looking village of Honoruru. The shore below the town from Waititi, to a considerable dis- tance above, is fringed with graceful cocoanut trees, with here and there a pretty little grass cottage, reposing under their shade. As we approached the harbor, these cottages became more numerous, until at last they appeared thickly grouped to- gether, with occasionally a pretty garden dividing them. The

192 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

fort, too, which fronts the ocean, with its clean, white washed walls, and cannon frowning from the embrazures, adds very much to the effect of the scene ; while behind, the noble hills and fertile valleys between, clothed with the richest verdure, soften down and mellow the whole, and render the prospect indescribably beautiful.

On nearing the shore, we observed some scores of curiously formed canoes, with large outriggers, which had just put off, and were bound out on a fishing excursion. A number of these passed close to our vessel, and usually paused when opposite, that the denuded mariners might have an opportunity of survey- ing the strangers, and of bidding them welcome to their shores, by a loud and gay Aroha. Near the land a number of natives, of both sexes, were swimming and playing in the surf, and diving to the bottom searching for echince, and sea weeds, re- maining under the water for a considerable time, while their heels were seen moving to and fro above the surface.

Our brig soon entered the narrow channel, opposite the harbor, and with a light, but steady breeze, stood in close to the town and let go her anchor within a hundred yards of the shore. As we were about leaving the vessel, Captain Charlton, H. B. M. consul, and Captain W. Darby of the H. B. Co.'s brig Eagle came on board, and gave Mr. N. and myself a passage to the shore in their boat. They walked with us to the house of Mr. Jones, the American consul, to whom T had a letter from my friend Doctor M. Burrough, of Philadelphia. We were received by this gentleman in a manner calculated to make us feel per- fectly at home ; a good and comfortable house was immediately provided for us, and every assistance was offered in forwarding ourviews. We dined at the sumptuous table of W.French, Esq., an American gentleman, and one of the most thriving merchants of the town, and were here introduced to several highly respectable foreign residents, Captain E. Grimes, Doctor Thomas, Dr. Rooke,

ACROSS THE ROCKY BIOUNTAINS, ETC. 193

Mr. Paty, and others. In the afternoon we strolled out with two or three gentlemen to view the village and its environs.

The town of Honoruru contains about three hundred houses, the great majority of which are composed of grass exclusively, and those occupied by the natives consist of a single room. Others, in which many of the foreigners reside, are partitioned with boards, and form as comfortable and agreeable residences as could be desired in a climate always warm. There are some few houses of frame, and several of coral rock, built by the resi- dent merchants and missionaries; but they are certainly not superior, except in being more durable, to those of grass, and probably not so comfortable in the intensely hot seasons. The houses are scattered about without any regard to regularity, the hard, clay passage-ways winding amongst them in every direc- tion ; but an air of neatness and simple elegance prervades the whole, which cannot fail to make a favorable impression on the stranger.

The natives ax'e generally remarkably well formed, of a dark copper color, with pleasant and rather intellectual countenances, and many of the women are handsome.

The dress of the men, not in the employment of the whites, consists of a large piece of native cloth, called a Tapa, or a robe of calico thrown loosely round the body, somewhat like the Roman toga, and knotted on the left shoulder. The women wear a loose gown of calico, or native cloth, fastened tightly round the neck, but not bound at the waist, and often with the addition of several yards of cotton cloth tied round above the hips.

Their hair is generally of a beautiful glossy black, and of un- usual fineness ; it is folded around the back part of the head, very much in the manner common to our ladies at home, and splendid tortoise shell combs, of their own manufacture, are used to confine it. They display much taste in the arrangement of wild flowers amongst their hair, and a common ornament for the

194 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

forehead is the Re of beautiful yellow feathers which is bound upon it. I have repeatedly seen women with hair of two, and, in some instances, of three distinct colors. Deep black and chestnut- brown ; not promiscuously mingled throughout, but lying in separate masses ; and in the rare instances of which I have spoken, they were black, brown, and a kind of ash color, giving to the head a most singular appearance. I had supposed that this party-colored character of the hair was the etfect of art, but was soon informed to the contrary, and perceived that by the natives themselves it was considered a deformity. ' 8th. — Mr. N. and myself are now fairly domiciliated. We occu- py a large and commodious room, in a building called the Pagoda, which is in a central part of the town ; from our front windows we have a fine view of the harbor and the shipping, and from a balcony in the rear, we can see almost the entire length of the lovely valley of Nuano, with its bold and rugged rocks, and the luxuriant verdure on their sides; while nearer, the little square taro patches, crowded together over the intermediate plain, look like pretty garden plots, as the' broad green leaves of the plant are tinted by the sunbeams.

In the afternoon, a gentleman somewhat past middle age, in a plain, but neat garb, called upon me, and introduced himself as the Rev. Hiram Bingham, one of the missionaries resident upon the island. He gave me a very interesting account of the first landing and establishment of the missionaries at the Sand- wich Islands, and discoursed very pleasantly upon ordinary * topics for half an hour. As Mr. N. was absent on a concholo- gical excursion, I had the good man all to myself, and I may truly say, I have rarely spent a half hour more agreeably. I was particularly interested in Mr. Bingham, from the circum- stance of his being one of the oldest missionaries at these islands, and from the knowledge (which I had before acquired) of the very great influence he had exerted in the establishment of the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 195

iis"siorfe, and of the excellent condition to which they had attain- ed under his supervision and guardianship.

It is well known to all who visit the Sandwich Islands, as well as to many at home who have friends residing there, that the missionaries are exceedingly unpopular amongst the resident fo- reigners. Why it is, or should be so, I will not stop to inquire, but will merely remark, that so far as my own intercourse with these missionaries has extended, and according to the opportuni- ties I have had of judging of the relative merits of the case, my opinion decidedly is, that there is no good and sufficient reason for this ill-feeling. Who are the missionaries ? They are men who have left the homes of their childhood, the parents, the bro- thers, the sisters, the friends of their bosoms, and for what ? To dwell in distant lands, among the uncivilized and the barbarous.; to labor for these with all the energy of their minds and bodies; and for this they receive so trifling a compensation, that nothing except the reward of a good conscience, and of a life spent in the noblest service that can engage the bodily and mental powers of a Christian, could ever induce them to engage in it. Why, then, should they be opposed 1 Why should those calling themselves Christians, take every possible opportunity of thwarting and renderino; null the labors of men such as these? Grant that there may be bad and designing persons among them, does this circumstance affect the cause itself? Surely not. Why then should not the foreigners, instead of opposing and laboring to subvert their measures, endeavor to aid these devoted people in their most laborious task, or if they do not aid, let them at least assume a neutrality, and neither place themselves in the ranks of opposition, nor endeavor to induce others to do so.

10th. — This morning I saw the king for the first time. He is a very young man, only about twenty years of age, of ordinary size, and rather ordinary appearance. He was dressed in a little blue jacket, such as is worn by sailors when ashore, white panta-

196 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

loons, and common black hat. He was walking in the street at a rapid, and not very dignified gate, and was followed closely by about twenty natives. Some of these were rather fantastically dressed, with old naval coats and rusty epaulets, which had seen long service, and huge sabres with iron scabbards, which jingled on the ground as the wearer stalked majestically along. Others were habited plainly, like their master, and some few were of the true tatterdemalion school. I had the curiosity to follow the royal escort for a little way to see what would become of them all ; they soon turned a corner and halted near a little waggon which had just stopped. The king approached the vehicle and handed from it an old and venerable looking native, (who I afterwards learned was the chief Kekeoeva, the former guardian of the king,) and they walked off arm in arm in a very affection- ate manner, followed, as before, by the motley group of retainers.

The natives have very generally become acquainted with the pursuits of my companion and myself, and at almost all hours of the day, our mansion is beseiged by men, women and children. Some bring shells, pearls, living birds, cocoanuts, bananas, &c., to sell, and others are attracted by curiosity to see us, which is no doubt much excited in re2;ard to the use which we intend making of all the strange things they bring us.

Sunday, 11th. — Mr. Jones, the consul, called for us this morning, and we accompanied him to the Seamen's chapel in our neighborhood, the only church in the town in which English service is performed. The chapel is a handsome building of adobes, or sun-dried bricks, lately erected, and, as its name im- ports, is intended chiefly for the benefit of the mariners who visit the island. It is surmounted by a handsome dome and belfry of wood, from which the bell was pealing out its solemn notes as we approached it. The Rev. John Deill, the pastor, officiated, to whom we were introduced at the conclusion of the service.

In the afternoon, Mr. N. and myself walked with the consul to

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 197

the native church, at the lower extremity of the town. This is an enormous building, one hundred and ninety-six feet in length by sixty in breadth, and capable of containing four thousand people. It is built in the native style, of grass tied in bundles on a rude frame work of sticks, and the ridge pole, which extends along the whole length of the apex of the roof within, is support- ed by numerous roughly hewn pillars driven into the ground. The natives, in great numbers, were flocking to the church ; men in every variety of costume, from the plain and dignified dress of the European gentleman, to the simple and primitive tapa or native cloth ; and women, from the gay hat and feathers, silk gowns and stays of polished life, to the light and much better adapted robe of the country, with its invariable accompaniment, the pau or waist-fillet of figured calico. While we were stand- ing, surveying the moving throng, we observed a little two wheeled cart approach, drawn by four men in the native dress, in which sat one of the great rotund beauties of the island, attired in gay silk, with a large black hat, from which drooped a magni- ficent ostrich feather. This was Kinau, the ex-queen, and wife of Kekuanoa, the commandante of the fort, commonly called the colonel. At the door of the chui'ch she was assisted to dis- mount ; and as she swept along by us and entered the aisle, she made us a low and graceful bow, tossing back her great head, and looking around upon the company assembled, with the air of one who expected profound admiration and unlimited homage. In the church, we were invited by Kekuanoa to take a seat on the bench beside him and his wife ; and when Mr. Bingham commenced the service by reading a native hymn, Kinau did me the honor to present me with her book, pointing to the place with a dignified and patronising air, which I acknowledged with all suitable respect.

The sermon, in the native language, by Mr. Bingham, was delivered in an easy and fluent manner, and in the whole of the

198 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

great concourse there was scarcely a movement during the service. All seemed deeply engaged in the business for which they had assembled ; and as I looked around upon the quiet and attentive multitude, a comparison with the wild and idolatrous scenes which their assemblies exhibited in times past was irresist- ibly forced upon me.

A few days after this I was introduced by Captain Charlton, his Britanic majesty's consul, to the king Kauikeaouli, or Tameiiameha III., as he is sometimes called. He was accom- panied by John Young, one of his prime favorites, a fine, noble looking young man, who I thought looked much more like a king than his master. His majesty was very condescending and kind. He conversed easily and freely, though in broken English, and having understood that I had been somewhat of a traveller, was very curious to hear my adventures through the wild regions of the west. The stories of buffalo and grizzly bear hunting pleased him particularly, and his dark eye actually glittered as I recounted to him the stirrinn; and thrilling incidents of the wild buffalo chace, and the no less moving perils of the encounter with the fierce bear of the prairies. He remarked that he should enjoy such hunting ; that here there was nothing for his amuse- ment but the chasing of wild cattle, and the common athletic exer- cise of quoits, bar-heaving, &c. , but he should like to see these big buffalo and bears, and then asked me, with great simplicity, if I supposed he could kill them.

The king is said to be one of the strongest and most active men on the island. He is not yet encumbered with flesh, like most of the chiefs, and he has all the elasticity and vigor of youth, superadded to a naturally strong and robust frame. He has a great fancy for all kinds of break-neck adventures, and I have no doubt, that, were he transplanted to the plains of the west, he would soon be a hunter of the first water.

The food of the natives, consists principally of an article called

, ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 199

poe, which is made by beating the baked roots of the taro, (^Aruni esculentum,) on a sort of wooden trencher, with a large oval stone. The mass so prepared is mixed with a small quan- tity of water, and set aside for several days to ferment, when it becomes about of the consistence of paper hanger's paste. This, with fish, either raw or baked, constitutes almost the sole food of the common people. Give a Sandwich Islander plenty of poe, with a raw fish or two, at each meal, and he asks for nothing more ; deprive him of his dear loved sour paste, and he loses his spirits, and is miserable. I have seen this strikingly shown in the case of the Islanders at the Columbia. The poor Kanakas tried their utmost to manufacture a sort of poe — sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, and even wappatoos, were operated upon, but all to no purpose ; and when our brig left the river, their farewell's to us were mingled with desires loudly expressed, that on our return, we would bring them each a calabash of poe. >/

The manner in which an islander takes his food is primitive to the last degree. He seats himself cross-legged upon the ground with his calabash before him, and a fish and a little pile of salt on a wooden dish by his side. His two first fingers are immersed in the paste, and stirred round several times until enough adheres to coat them thickly, when they are carried by a quick motion to the mouth, which is open to receive them, and are sucked clean — a little pinch with the fingers is then taken of the fish which is perhaps floundering beside him, followed by a similar pinch of salt, to season the whole repast.

The principal beauty of the islanders, in their own estimation, con- sists in their being enormously fat, some of them weighing upwards of three hundred pounds, and measures are consequently resorted to, that will successfully and expeditiously produce this much desired result. With this view, the chiefs take but little exercise, and eat enormously of the nutritive paste before spoken of. After they have stuffed as much as their stomachs will contain.

200 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

without the risk of positive suffocation, they roll over on their backs upon the ground, grunting like huge swine, when two attendants approach and place themselves on each side of the patient. One wields a kahili, or feather fly brush, to cool his master, and keep off the mosquetoes, while the other commences his operations by punching his fist violently into the stomach of the fallen man, who, with a great snort, acknowledges his con- sciousness, and the pleasure he derives from it. Soon the other fist of the serving man follows, and the regular kneading process is performed ; at first, slowly and cautiously, but gradually in- creasing in quickness and severity until the attendant is forced to stop for breath, and the pogr stupified lump of obesity forgets to grunt in unison with the rapidly descending blows. This is the operation called rumi-rumi, and is usually continued from ten to fifteen minutes, after which the patient rises, yawns, stretches his limbs, and calls loudly for another calabash of poe. This custom is followed almost exclusively by the chiefs, but is not confined to the male sex, the women enjoying the luxury equally with the men. The rumi-rumi is also practised in cases of abdominal pains, and in dyspeptic complaints. Even the fo- reigners sometimes resort to it, and find it beneficial.

nth. — Mr. N. and myself were invited to participate in a lu-au dinner, to be given in the valley of Nuano this afternoon. At about 2 o'clock, Mr. Jones called for us, and furnished us with good horses, upon which we mounted, and galloped off" to the valley. After a delightful ride of about five miles, over a good, though rather stony road, between the hills which enclose the valley, we arrived at a pretty little temporary cottage, formed entirely of the broad green leaves of the ti plant, and perched on a picturesque hill, overlooking the whole extent of our ride. Here we found a number of the foreign gentlemen; others soon joined us, and our company consisted of fifty or sixty persons.

ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 201

the king, John Young, and several other distinguished natives being of the party.

As the collation was not yet ready to be served up, Mr. Jones, Captain Hinckley, Mr. N. and myself remounted our horses for a visit to the great pari, or precipice, two miles above. We found the road somewhat rough, and very hilly, in some places ex- tremely narrow, and the path wound constantly through bushes and tall ferns to the elevated land which we were approaching. When within a few hundred yards of the precipice, we left our horses in charge of several native boys, who had followed us for the purpose, and ascended to the edge of the pari. The wind was blowing a gale, so that it was necessary to remove our hats and bind up our heads with handkerchiefs, and when we stood upon the cliff', some care was required to keep our footing, and to brace ourselves against the furious blast which was eddying around the summit.

The pari is an almost perpendicular precipice, of about six hundred feet, composed of basaltic rock, with occasional strata of hard white clay.

On the north is seen the fertile and beautiful valley of Kolau, with its neat little cottages, taro-patches and fields of sugar cane, spread out before you like a picture ; and beyond, is the indented shore, with its high and pointed cliffs, margining the ocean as far as the eye can discern. Down this precipice, on the north side, is a sort of rude path, which the natives have constructed, and up this we saw a number of them toiling, clinging with their hands to the jutting crags above, to raise and support their bo- dies in the ascent. As they approached nearer to us, I was sur- prised to perceive that every man bore a burthen on his shoulder ; some had large calabashes of poe, suspended one on each end of a long pole, and others carried living pigs, similarly suspended, by having their feet tied together, and the pole passed between

them. The porkers, although hanging back downwards, in a

26

202 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

position not the most comfortable, did not complain of the treat- ment, until they were deposited on the terra firma of the summit, when they tuned their pipes to a lusty squeal, and made amends for their former silence.

This spot is the scene of the last great battle of King Tame- hameha, by which he acquired the sole and absolute sovereignty of the whole Sandwich group. The routed army of the petty island king was driven to take refuge among the wild crags of the pari, and hither it was followed by the conquering forces of the invader. No quarter was shown. The fugitives were hunted like savage beasts, and, almost to a man, were hurled from the giddy height and dashed to pieces on the frightful rocks below.

On returning to the cottage, we found that the dinner had been dished up, and that the guests were about taking their seats. Our table was the green grass, upon which had been arranged, with native taste, a circular table cloth, composed of ti leaves, placed one above another. On this the viands were laid. They consisted of fat pigs, and fat dogs, turkies, chickens, boiled ham, and fish, with vegetables of various kinds, taro, sweet po- tatoes, &c., — all cooked in the native manner, in pits made in the ground, in which heated stones had been placed. Each pig and dog had such a stone within him, and around it had been wrapped a quantity of ti leaves, which were eaten as greens, and were excellent. The whole of the cookery was, in fact, very su- perior, and would have delighted the most fastidious epicure of our own enlightened land. We had also various liquors : Champagne, cherry, Madeira, and mountain dew, and were waited upon by native men and boys, with chaplets of green bound around their heads, and their persons profusely ornamented with the " fern and heather of their native valleys." Among the attendants, Mr. Mills, or Deacon Mills, as he is sometimes called, stood pre- eminent; he acted as purveyor and major dome; was every

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 203

where at the same moment, and showed, by his uniform con- duct, that he was fully alive to the high responsibilities of his office.

When the meats were removed, wine usurped the board, toasts were drunk, and songs were sung, and all was hilarity and cheerfulness.

Towards evening the whole party mounted their horses and galloped down the valley into the town. As we entered the precincts we formed ourselves into a battalion, and reined in our horses to a dignified trot, in order to pass a troop of gay native ladies who were returning from a visit to Waititi. At the head of this equestrian cavalcade, I was surprised to observe the large person of Madam Kinau, sitting astride upon a noble steed which evidently made an effort to curvet and appear proui^d of its K queenly burthen.

While we were proceeding at this slow gait, a man suddenly sprang up behind my saddle and fixed his arms firmly around my waist. I was not more astonished than my horse at this intru- sion ; and the spirited animal which I rode, not being accustomed to carrying double, and feeling unwilling to be so imposed upon, began kicking up his heels, and darting wildly about the road. I requested the intruder to dismount instantly, but the only atten- tion which was paid to this was a reply, in the native language, which I did not understand. Supposing him to be one of the ser- vants who had been heated by the refuse wine of the feast, and con- sidering myself in real danger from the unruly conduct of my horse, I turned half round and dealt my merry companion a blow in the chest, which I intended should have unseated him. How was I astonished to hear the exclamation, " don't strike so hard, hauri" from him who occupied my crupper, and I w^as not long in discovering that the joker was the king, Kauikeaouli, himself I apologized in the best manner I could, though out of breath with

204 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the exertion of restraining the fiery horse. Flis majesty did not seem in the least offended, but passing one arm each side of me, and taking the bridle in his hands, he guided the animal into one of the largest stores of the town, through which we went jumping and prancing, followed by all the king's train, and several white men of the party.

ACROSS TUB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 205

V-

CHAPTER XII.

Visit to the island of Kauai — A royal call — Rev. P. J. Gulick, the mission- ary— Description of the island — A present from Kauikeaouli — Royal mode of obtaining supplies — A change of residence — Excursions through the coun- try— Birds — JVative method of catching them, — The travellers wijid-bound — Shell hunting — Habits of the natives — Beach food, and mode of eating it — Visit of the king, and governor Kekeoeva — Characteristics of the latter — Anxiety of the king to return home — Arrival of his folloivers — A inetamor- phosis — A royal supper — Evening service — Royal guard — A sail in sight — Joy of the king — His letter — Return of the Avon — Departure from Kauai, and arrival at Oahu — A pic-nic party at Pearl river — Calabash dance by the natives — Departure for Columbia river — A primitive passage to the shore— A storm at sea — A flight of shore birds — Land ahead — Arrival at the Columbia.

February \Oth. — Mr. Nuttall and myself were kindly invited by Captain Hinckley, to take a trip with him to the island of Kauai, in the brig Avon, owned by him. We embarked this morning, and with the pilot on board sailed out of the harbor. This being one of the leeward islands, towards which the trade-winds al- ways blow, we made the passage quickly ; and in the evening ran into the harbor of Koloa, and anchored within half a mile of the shore.

The next morning we landed in our boat, and took possession of a large untenanted native liouse, near the beach, belonging to Captain II. Our servant busied himself in making our new re- sidence comfortable, arranging the bedding and mosquitoe cui'- tains, procuring mats for partitions, and, finally, in setting before us a good breakfast, cooked on the spot. We had scarcely

206 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

finished our meal, when two horsemen rode up, and dismounting at the door, entered the house. Our visitors proved to be the king and John Young, who had mounted their horses this morn- ing for a cattle hunt on the hills, but hearing of the arrival of the foreigners, had hastened to pay their respects to us , and as- sure us of their protection. The king, and his train came a few days since to this island, and propose remaining two or three weeks longer ; his majesty's object appears to be to inspect the condition of his people here, and to give them an opportunity of evincing their loyalty and affection. He was so kind as to express much interest for Mr. N. and myself, gave us one of his own body servants for our attendant, while we remain, and promised that in the afternoon he would send us some provisions.

Shortly after the king left us, we were visited by the Rev. P. J. Gulick,the missionary of this station, to whom I had a letter from my kind friend, Mr. Deill, and after sitting half an hour, we ac- companied him to his house, about a mile distant.

This part of the island of Kauai exhibits no particularly in- teresting features : from the beach to the mission station there is a good road made by the natives over a gentle ascent of about two miles, on each side of which taro patches, yam and maize fields abound. Back from the ocean and at right angles with it, are seen several ranges of long, high hills, with narrow valleys between ; the hills are covered with low trees of Tu-tui and Pan- danus, and the valleys with dense bushes, tall ferns, and broad leaved bananas.

The good missionary introduced us to his wife, a very intelli- gent and agreeable woman, and to his three pretty children, and we spent an hour with them very pleasantly. In the afternoon we returned to our cottage near the beach, where we found a native waiting for us with a hand cart filled with provisions of various kinds, which he said the king had sent to us as a present. There was a very large hog, three pigs, three or

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 207

four turkies, and several pairs of chickens, all living; with vegetables in great abundance, taro, sweet-potatoes, melons, &c. I thought the man must certainly have made a mistake, but he assured me that it was right : " the king had sent them to the ' kauris' (foreigners) who had just arrived, and wished him to say that in tree days he would send them as much more." His majesty had evidently measured our appetites by the standard oi his own people, and we determined to see him immediately, and countermand the sumptuous order v/hich he had given. It may be proper here to remark, that when the king, or chiefs, wish a supply of provisions, or any other articles in which the common people deal, or of which they are possessed, a messenger is sent to demand such things in the name of the master, and a levy is made upon the property of the poor native, without any kind of compensation being ever offered. We were aware that our pro- vision had been obtained in this way, and were unwilling that the industrious poor should lose their labor to contribute to our wants, preferring to buy from them the necessary supplies. \/

The next day we paid another visit to Mr. Gulick, and ac- cepted a pressing invitation to make our home with him, his house being much more convenient to the valleys, which we wished to explore in search of birds and other natural objects. Here we had another interview with the king, who insisted upon our occupying a fine large house in the neighborhood of Mr. Gulick's residence, as a depository for our collections. We accepted this offer with pleasure, and the missionary's accommo- dation being somewhat contracted, we used the king's house as our study and sleeping apartment, taking our meals with the family of our kind friend.

We made here several long excursions over the hills and through the deep valleys, without much success. The birds are the same as those we found and collected at Oahu, but are not so numerous. They are principally creepers (Certhia) and honey-

208 NARRATIVE OF A JOUBNEY

suckers (Nectarinia ;) feed chiefly upon flowers, and the sweet juice of the banana, and some species are very abundant. The native boys here have adopted a singular mode of catching the honey sucking birds. They lay themselves, flat upon their backs on the ground, and cover their whole bodies with bushes, and the campanulate flowers of which the birds are in search. One of these flowers is then held by the lower portion of the tube be- tween the finger and thumb; the little bird inserts his long, curved bill to the base of the flower, when it is immediately seized by the fingers of the boy, and the little flutterer disappears beneath the mass of bushes. In this way, dozens of beautiful birds are taken, and they are brought to us living and unin- jured.

20th. — We expected to have lefi; the island several days ago, but the Avon has not returned, and she would not now be able to come, in consequence of a steady S. W. wind which has prevailed for the last week. Our ammunition, and materials for the preparation of birds, are entirely exhausted, and we cannot here obtain a supply, so we amuse ourselves in collecting shells on the beaches, plants, fish, &c. We are living very comfort- ably in the house furnished us by the king, and we have become completely domesticated in the agreeable family of Mr. Gulick. We sometimes spend whole days wandering along the rocky coast in search of shells, and in these journeys we are always accompanied by a troop of boys and girls, and sometimes men and women, often to the number of twenty or thirty. They are indefatigable shell-hunters, and prove of great service to us, being compensated for each one that they bring us, with pins or needles. In their habits they are perfectly amphibious, diving into the sea, and through the dashing surf without the least hesi- tation, and exploring the bottom for an almost incredible time without risinsf to breathe.

In the§e sub-marine excursions they frequently find the echinus.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 209

with spines four or five inches in length, and the black, kimpish substance called heclie la mer. Both these animals are eaten ^t. by them as they are taken living from the water ; the spines of the former are knocked off against the rocks, and the soft con- tents of the case sucked out ; the latter, after having the tough outside skin removed, are eaten like biscuits to qualify the meal. There is also another sea animal which is considered by the na- tives a great delicacy, the sepia, or cuttle fish. This is a large, ill-looking creature, with an oval body, and eight or ten long arms or tentacula ; within the cavity of the thorax is a sack, containing a fluid resembling ink, and as the teeth are sunk into this, the black juice squirts into the face of the masticator, while the long feelers are twisting about his head like serpents.

March 5th. — The king, and Kakeoeva, the governor of the island, called on us before breakfast this morning, and partici- pated in our family worship. After the usual prayer in English, by Mr. Gulick, Kakeoeva supplicated in his own language, in a tone peculiarly solemn and impressive, which concluded the service. This chief is, I believe, a sincerely good and pious man, and his piety consists not in profession alone, but is exhibited in nume- rous acts of unassuming benevolence to his oppressed people, and in uniform and well directed effoi'ts for meliorating their condi- tion. He enforces all the tabus, which have for their object the suppression of vice and immorality, and while his people fear to disobey his injunctions in the smallest particular, they love and venerate him as their father and friend.

The principal object of the king in calling upon us, was to

request, (which he did with great apparent diffidence,) the loan

of his house for a few days, as he wished to move his residence

to a point nearer the sea, in order to catch the first glimpse of the

white sails of the Avon, the arrival of which he is expecting with

great anxiety. His impatience to return to Oahu is said, sometimes,

to exceed all reasonable bounds ; he works himself into a perfect

27

210 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

fury ; fancies that every thing is going wrong at home, and that his people are in mourning for his protracted absence ; but although he is a king, the winds of heaven will not obey him, and, with the meanest follower in his train, he must wait the appointed time.

We, of course, relinquished the house cheerfully, and, with the assistance of our native servants, transferred all our commo- dities to the mansion of the good missionary.

In the afternoon, the natives from all parts of the island began to flock to the king's temporary residence. The petty chiefs, and head men of the villages, were mounted upon all sorts of horses, from the high-headed and high-mettled Californian steed, to the shaggy and diminutive poney raised on their native hills ; men women and children were running on foot, laden with pio-s, calabashes of poe, and every production of the soil; and though last, certainly not least, in the evening there came the troops of of the island, with fife and drum, and ' " tinkling cymbal," to form a body guard for his majesty, the king. Little houses were put up all around the vicinity, and thatched in an incredibly short space of time, and when Mr. N. and myself visited the royal mansion, after nightfall, we found the whole neighborhood metamorphosed ; a beautiful little village had sprung up as by magic, and the retired studio of the naturalists had been trans- formed into a royal banquet hall. His majesty soon recognised us in the crowd, and taking us each by the hand, led us into the house, and introduced us to the queen, Kalama, who received us in a dignified and very pleasant manner, and made room for us near her at the supper, which the attendants were spreading upon the ground. This consisted of a variety of meats lu aued, fish, potatoes and tare, and before each guest was placed a little calabash of poe. As I have before stated, this last article is an indispensable requisite in the economy of every meal; and even the refined Kauikeaouli, who has abolished in his own person so

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 211

many of the rude customs of his forefathers, must sip a little poe to conclude his supper. I remarked, however, that on this occa- sion, he did not soil his fingers, as is usual, but fed himself with a spoon as delicately as possible. The queen, on the contrary, and all the chiefs assembled at the board, plunged their hands into the paste, and sucked their fingers after the approved fashion.

When the supper was concluded, the people were all assembled under a ranai, or shed, which had been constructed for the occasion, and prayer was made in a loud and solemn tone, by John li, the king's chaplain. At its conclusion, the people scattered themselves about as before ; some were collected in little groups on the ground, smoking their short pipes, and re- salins themselves with sea-urchins and succulent cuttle-fish, while the stenlor voices of the royal guard pealed out an " all's well" from their station near the palace of the monarch.

This royal guard, whicTi we had an opportunity of seeing next morning, would not do discredit to a militia gathering in yan- kee land. Like our own redoubtable troops, the men were of all sizes, in every variety of costume, and with all sorts of v/eapons; muskets without bayonets or locks, and no muskets at all, broom- sticks, and tin pans, swords, pistols, and taro tops. They were arranged every morning in line before the door of the palace, and laboriously drilled in the manual exercise, by James Young, a half-caste who has been in America. Poor fellows ! they had hard duty to perform, and were no doubt longing for the time when his majesty should depart, that they might exchange the arduous and uncongenial duties of the camp, for the toil of their simple husbandry.

About a week after, as I was strolling near the palace, which, being on a hill, commanded a fine view of the ocean, the cry of " sail, O !" was uttered in a joyful tone, by a bevy of urchins, who

• -

212 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

were on the look out, and was echoed all round the neighbor- hood. The king, who had of late become unusually dull and spiritless, seemed suddenly to have acquired new life. He was seen rushing out of the house, like one distraught, and jumping and capering all about in a perfect agony of joy. Seeing me near him, he grasped my hand in the most cordial manner, while his eyes filled with tears : " We shall go back to Oahu, hauri, my people want me again ; the wind has changed, and this ship is sent to take me away."

I participated in the anxiety of the king to return ; for, in ad- dition to the ennui which is always the accompaniment of a forced detention, even in pleasant places, I feared that our brig would leave the islands for the Columbia without us, and we should thus lose the opportunity of hailing the opening of spring, in our western world, the season which, of all others, is the most interesting to us.

Next morning a messenger came to the king from Waimea, a port about fourteen miles distant, with information that the schooner which we had seen, had put in there, and only waited the embarkation of his majesty to steer direct for Oahu. No time was lost in taking advantage of this opportunity; and at noon, the spot, which the day before had swarmed with hundreds of dingy natives, was silent and untenanted.

On the day following, learning that the schooner had not sail- ed, and fearing that the Avon would not arrive early enough,! wrote a letter to the king, requesting a passage for Mr. N. and myself, with him. To this, — which I sent by a runner, — the following laconic reply was received. It was directed "To the missionary, Mr. Gulick," and is rendered literally from the native language : " Say thou to the foreigners, we have sailed. Let them look out when we arrive there. King Kauikeaouli."

The an-ival spoken of, alluded to the vessel passing the port

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 213

of Koloa, where the schooner would back her topsails and lie to, that we might board her in a canoe.

After some consideration, and consultation with Mr. Gulick, we concluded that we would decline the king's offer, as we knew the vessel would be crowded, and therefore uncomfortable ; and as the wind now blew steadily in its accustomed quarter, we had Uttle doubt of the early arrival of the Avon. In the after- noon we saw the schooner of the king come booming along past us, the deck, and even the rigging, alive with natives, but a mes- senger whom we had previously sent off, saved them the trouble of bringing to ; and away went the little vessel on a wind, and soon became a dim and ill-defined speck upon the far hori- zon.

15t7i. — A sail was descried at daylight this morning, bearing towards our island ; and while we were at breakfast, two fisher- men called, to tell us that it was the Avon come at last. She was standing towards the harbor of Koloa, with a fair wind, and when Mr. N. and myself arrived at the beach, she was hauling in under the land. The captain and Mr. Smith, a resident of Ho- noruru, came on shore to meet us. They informed us that the king arrived at Oahu last evening, after an unusually boisterous and uncomfortable passage, and that his majesty was almost be- side himself with joy to receive once more the warm and affec- tionate greetings of his people at home.

The brig was detained here a day, in order to take in a cargo of live stock, pigs, goats, &c.; and the next morning we bade adieu to the kind and affectionate family of the missionary, and went on board. In the afternoon our anchor was weighed, and we were soon ploughing the wide ocean, while the rugged, iron- bound coast of Kauai rapidly receded from our view. We had on board several distinguished natives, as passengers, the princi- pal of whom was Kekeoeva, the governor, and at each meal which we took on board, the old gentleman asked an audible

214 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

blessing on the viands, and regularly returned thanks at its con- clusion.

After a pleasant passage of two days we arrived at Oahu, and were warmly greeted by our friends, who sympathized with us, and thought that our long tarriance must have been peculiarly irksome. They knew but little of the resources of the natural- ist ; they knew not that the wild forest, the deep glen, and the rugged mountain-top possess charms for him which he would not exchange for gilded palaces ; and that to acquaint himself with nature, he gladly escapes from the restraints of civilization, and buries himself from the world which cannot appreciate his en- joyment.

22(1. — I joined a party of ladies and gentlemen this morning, in an excursion to Pearl river, on the west side of the island. We embarked in several small schooners and barges, and had a delightful trip of two hours. The king, who was with us, with a number of his favorites, John Young, Kanaina, Halileo, &c., procured for our accommodation several native houses, in which we slung our cots and hammocks,' and slept at night. We took our meals under a large shaded ranai, and the amusements of the party were riding, shooting, and a variety of sylvan games, which rendered our pic-nic of three days a constant scene of pleasant festivity.

The night before we left, the gentlemen of the party were in- vited by the king to witness the curious exhibition called the " calabash dance." We entered a large house, crowded with na- tives, with the exception of a wide space in the middle, which had been reserved for the performers. These were men and wo- men to the number of ten or twelve, in a state of almost perfect nudity, having no covering, except the small maro of tapa bound around the loins. Each was furnished with a very large gourd, having the neck attached, and from the under surface the contents had been removed through a small aperture. The

// /

ACROSS THE ROCKt MOUNTAINS, ETC. 215

performers kneeled upon the ground, and each grasped his gourd by the neck and lifted it, when one of the number commenced a strange kind of howling song, lifting his calabash with one hand and beating it with the other so as to keep accurate time to his music. This song was soon taken up by the others, until the whole company joined, and every one thumped his calabash most musically. I was astonished at the exceeding nicety with which this was done. No band of civilized drummers could have kept time more perfectly, nor flourished their sticks with more grace, than did these unsophisticated people their inartificial instruments. During the whole time of the singing, the bodies of the perform- ers were not idle ; every muscle seemed to have something to do ; and was incessantly brought into action by the strange motions, twistings and contortions of the frame, which were also as eva- nescent as the sound of their voices. This singular exhibition pos- sessed interest for me, as being one of the idolatrous games, which in former years constituted a portion of their religious ex- ercisesr - The calabash dance is now almost exploded, the natives generally not understanding the manipulations, and like other relics of heathenism it is of course discouraged by the mission- aries, and will probably soon be unknown amongst them.

On the 26th of March we embarked on board the brig May Dacre, upon our return to the Columbia. As we sailed out of the harbor, and the lovely shore of the island became more and more indistinct, I felt sad and melancholy in the prospect of parting, perhaps for ever, from the excellent friends who had treated me with such uniform kindness and hospitality.

We have had an accession to our crew of thirty Sandwich Islanders, who are to be engaged in the salmon fishery on the Columbia, and six of these have been allowed the unusual privi- lege of taking their wives with them. Some six or eight natives, of both sexes, friends and relatives of the crew, came on board when we weighed anchor, and their parting words were prolonged

216 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

until the brig cleared the reef, and her sails had hlled with the fresh trade wind. They thought it then time to withdraw, and putting their noses together after their fashion, they bade their friends an affectionate farewell, and without hesitation dashed into the sea, and made directly for shore. I thought of blue sharks, tiger sharks, and shovel-noses, and would not have run such a risk for all the wealth of all the islands.

April 5th. — Yesterday we had an inlding of a storm. Some rain fell in the morning early; and at noon, while sitting in the cabin, I was startled by hearing a flapping, as if all the sails in the ship were being torn to pieces, and a roaring not unlike the escape of steam from the boiler of a boat. Upon ascending to the deck, I observed the whole ocean covered with glittering white foam, the surges boiling, and dashing, and breaking over our vessel as she labored heavily amongst them. The sails were flapping about most unmanageably. The studding-sails, — all of which had been set before the storm, — were immediately taken in, and hands were sent aloft to furl the remaining can- vass, until in a very short time we were scudding under bare poles, and defying the utmost fury of the elements. In about half an hour, the storm abated, and, soon after, entirely ceased ; the wind became steady and fresh ; the white folds of our can- vass were again let loose, and away we went before a " smashing breeze" at the rate of ten knots an hour.

\2tli. — The mate has several times spoken of having seen large flocks of a small species of land bird sailing around the ves- sel. As it is scarcely possible they could have emigrated from the distant continent, Captain L. supposes that they are residents of a small uninhabited island, somewhere in these latitudes, which has long been supposed to exist, but has i:iever been found. He who may hereafter be so fortunate as to discover this land, will probably be rendered a rich man for the remainder of his days, for it doubtless abounds in seal, which never having been inter-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 217

rupted, will be easily taken. I have not seen the birds spoken of, but suppose them to be some of the small gralloe.

On the 15th, the wind, which had foi' several days been light, began steadily to increase, until we were running ten knots by the log. In the afternoon, the atmosphere became thick and hazy, indicating our approach to the shores of the continent. In a short time, a number of the small Auks, — of which we saw a few immediately after leaving the Columbia, — were observed sporting in the waves, close under our l)ows ; then several gulls of the species common on the river, and soon after large flocks of geese and canvass-back ducks.

The sea gradually lost its legitimate deep blue color, and as- sumed a dirty, green appearance, indicating soundings. Upon heaving the lead here, we got only eleven fathoms, and found that we had approached nearer than was prudent, having been misled by the haze. Wore ship immediately, and soon saw land, bear- ing east, which we ascertained to be south of Cape Disappoint- ment. Stood off during the night, and the next morning at 4 o'clock, the wind favoring us, we bore up for the cape, and at 7 crossed the dangerous bar safely, and ran direct for the river.

28

218 NARKATIVE OF A JOUKNKY

CHAPTER XIII.

I'assage up the Columbia — Jiirds — ^d trip to the IVallammet — Methodist mis- sionaries— their prospects — Fort TVillia?n — Band-tail pigeons — Wretched condition of the Indians at the falls — A Kallapooyah village — Indian cemetery — Superstitions — Treatment of diseases — JMethcd of steaming — " JMaking medicine^^ — Indian sorcerers — An interruption of festivities — Death of Thornburg — An inquest — Verdict of the Jury — Inordinate appetite for ardent spirits — JVlisfortunes of the American Compani/ — Eight men dro-wned — Murder of two trappers by the Banneck Indians — Arrival of Captain Thing — His meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians — Massacre — A narroiu escape.

On the 16th, we anchored abreast of Oak point. Our decks were almost immediately crowded with Indians to welcome us, and among them we recognised many faces with which we were familiar. Chinamus, the Chinook chief, was the principal of these, who, with his wife, Aillapust, or Sally, as she is called at the fort, paid us an early visit, and brought us red deer and sturgeon to regale upon after our voyage.

On the afternoon of the next day, we ran up to Warrior's point, the brig's old mooring ground. The people here had been anxious to see us ; extensive preparations had been made to pro- secute the salmon fishery, and the coopers have been engaged the whole winter in making barrels to accommodate them. Mr. Walker, the missionaries' quondam associate, was in charge of the post, and he informed us that Captain Wyeth had returned only a few weeks since from the upper country, where he had been spending the winter, engaged in the arduous business of

ACROSS THK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 219

trapping, in the prosecution of which he had endured great and various hardships.

May 12th. — The rainy season is not yet over ; we have had almost constant showers since we arrived, but now the weather appears settled. Birds are numerous, particularly the warblers, (Sylvia.) Many of these are migratory, remaining but a few weeks : others breed here, and reside during the greater part of the summer. I have already procured several new species.

20th. — Mr. Wyeth, camo down from Walla-walla yesterday, and this morning I embarked with him in a large canoe, manned by Kanakas, for a trip to the Wallammet falls in order to procure salmon. We visited fort William, (Wyeth's new settlement upon Wappatoo island,) which is about fifteen miles from the lower mouth of the Wallammet. We found here the missionaries, Messrs. Lee and Edwards, who arrived to-day from their station, sixty miles above. They give flattering accounts of their pros- pects here ; they are surrounded by a considerable number of Indians who are friendly to the introduction of civilization and religious light, and who treat them with the greatest hospitality and kindness. They have built several comfortable log houses, and the soil in their vicinity they represent as unusually rich and productive. They have, I think, a good prospect of being service- able to this miserable and degraded people ; and if they commence their operations judiciously, and pursue a steady, unwavering course, the Indians in this section of country may yet be redeem- ed from the thraldom of vice, superstition, and indolence, to which they have so long submitted, and above which their energies have not enabled them to rise.

The spot chosen by Captain W. for his fort is on a high piece of land, which will probably not be overflown by the periodical freshets, and the soil is the rich black loam so plentifully dis- tributed through this section of country. The men now live in tents and temporary huts, but several log houses are constructing

220 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

which, when finished, will vie in durability and comfort with Vancouver itself.

21st. — The large hand-tail pigeon (Colombafasciata) is very- abundant near the river, found in flocks of from fifty to sixty, and perching upon the dead trees along the margin of the stream. They are feeding upon the buds of the balsam poplar ; are very fat, and excellent eating. In the course of the morning, and witlLut leaving the canoe, I killed enough to supply our people with provision for two days.

24th. — We visited the falls to-day, and while Captain W. was inspecting the vicinity to decide upon the practicability of drawing his seine here, I strolled into the Indian lodges on the bank of the river. Tke poor creaturCvS were all living miserably, and some appeared to be suffering absolute want. Those who were the best supplibd, had nothing more than the fragments of a few sturgeons and lamprey eels, kamas bread, &c. To the roofs of the lodges were hung a number of crooked bladders, filled with rancid seal oil, used as a sort of condiment with the dry and unsavory sturgeon.

On the Kiakamas river, about a mile below, we found a few lodges belonging to Indians of the Kalapooyah tribe. We ad- dressed them in Chinook, (the language spoken by all those in- habiting tlie Columbia below the cascades,) but they evidently did not comprehend a word, answering in a peculiarly harsh and gutteral language, with which we were entirely unacquainted. However, we easily made them understand by signs that we wanted salmon, and being assured in the same significant man- ner that they had none to sell, we decamped as soon as possible, to escape the fleas and other vermin with which the interior of their wretched habitations were plentifully supplied. We saw here a large Indian cemetery. The bodies had been buried un- der the ground, and each tomb had a board at its head, upon which was rudely painted some strange, uncouth figure. The

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 221

pans, kettles, clothing, &c., of the deceased, were all suspended upon sticks, driven into the ground near the head board.

June 6th. — The Indians frequently bring us salmon, and we observe that, invariably, before they part with them, they are careful to remove the hearts. This superstition, is religiously adhered to by all the Chinook tribe. Before the fish is split and prepared for eating, a small hole is made in the breast, the heart taken out, roasted, and eaten in silence, and with great gravity. This practice is continued only during the first month in which the salmon make their appearance, and is intended as a kind of pro- pitiation to the particular deity or spirit who presides over the finny tribes. Superstition in all its absurd and most revolting aspects is rife among this people. They believe in " black spi- rits, and white, blue spirits, and grey," and to each grizzly monster some peculiar virtue or ghastly terror is attributed. When a chief goes on a hunting or fishing excursion, he puts him- self under the care of one these good spirits, and if his expedition is unsuccessful, he affirms that the antagonist evil principle has gained the victory ; but this belief does not prevent his making another, and another attempt, in the hope, each time, that his guardian genius will have the ascendency.

In their treatment of diseases, they employ but few remedies, and these are generally simple and inefficacious. Wounds are treated with an application of green leaves, and bound with strips of pine bark, and in some febrile cases a sweat is administered. This is effected by digging a hole two or three feet deep in the ground, and placing within it some hemlock or spruce boughs moistened with water ; hot stones are then thrown in, and a frame work of twigs is erected over the opening, and covered closely with blankets to prevent the escape of the steam. Under this contrivance, the patient is placed ; and aficr remaining

222 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

fifteen or twenty minutes, he is removed, and plunged into cold water.

Their mode of " making medicine,^'' to use their own term, is, however, very different from this. The sick man is laid upon a bed of mats and blankets, elevated from the ground, and sur- rounded by a raised frame work of hewn boards. Upon this frame two "medicine men" (sorcerers) place themselves, and commence chaunting, in a low voice, a kind of long drawn, sighing song. Each holds a stout stick, of about four feet long, in his hand, with which he. beats upon the frame work, and keeps accurate time with the music. After a few minutes, the song begins to increase in loudness and quickness, (a corres- ponding force and celerity being given to the stick,) until in a short time the noise becomes almost deafening, and may well serve, in many instances, to accelerate the exit of him whom it is their intention to benefit.

During the administration of the medicine, the relations and friends of the patient are often employed in their usual avoca- tions in the same house with him, and by his bedside ; the wo- men making mats, moccasins, baskets, &c., and the men lolling around, smoking or conversing upon general subjects. No appearance of sorrow or concern is manifested for the brother, husband, or father, expiring beside them, and but for the presence and ear-astounding din of the medicine men, you would not know that any thing unusual had occurred to disturb the tran- quillity of the family circle.

These medicine men are, of course, all impostors, their object being simply the acquisition of property ; and in case of the re- covery of the patient, they make the most exorbitant demands of his relations ; but when the sick man dies, they are often com- pelled to fly, in order to escape the vengeance of the survivors, who generally attribute the fatal termination to the evil influence of tlie practitioner.

ACROSS TUE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 223

July Ath. — This morning was ushered in by the firing of can- non on board our brig, and we had made pi*eparations for spend- ing the day in festivity, when, at about 9 o'clock, a letter was received from Mr. Walker, who has charge of the fort on Wap- patoo island, stating that the tailor, Thornburg, had been killed this morning by Hubbard, the gunsmith, and requesting our pre- sence immediately, to investigate the case, and direct him how to act.

Our boat was manned without loss of time, and Captain L. and myself repaired to the fort, where we found every thing in confusion. Poor Thornburg, whom I had seen but two days previously, full of health and vigor, was now a lifeless corpse; and Hubbard, who was more to be pitied, was walking up and down the beach, with a countenance pale and haggard, from the feel- ings at war within.

We held an inquest over the body, and examined all the men of the fort severally, for the purpose of eliciting the facts of the case, and, if warranted by the evidence, to exculpate Hubbard from blame in the commission of the act. It appeared that, several weeks since, a dispute arose between Hubbard and Thorn- burg, and the latter menaced the life of the former, and had since been frequently heard to declare that he would carry the threat into effect on the first favorable opportunity. This morning, be- fore daylight, he entered the apartment of Hubbard, armed with a loaded gun, and a large knife, and after making the most deliberate preparations for an instant departure from the room, as soon as the deed should be committed, cocked his gun, and prepared to shoot at his victim. Hubbard, who was awakened by the noise of Thornburg's entrance, and was therefore on the alert, waited quietly until this crisis, when cocking his pistol, without noise, he took deliberate aim at the assassin, and fired. Thornburg staggered back, his gun fell from his grasp, and the two combatants struggled hand to hand. The tailor, being wounded,

224 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

was easily overcome, and was thrown violently out of the house, when he fell to the ground, and died in a few minutes. Upon ex- amining the body, we found that the two balls from the pistol had entered the arm below the shoulder, and escaping the bone, had passed into the cavity of the chest. The verdict of the jury was " justifiable homicide," and a properly attested certificate, con- taining a full account of the proceedings, was given to Hubbard, as well for his satisfaction, as to prevent future difficulty, if the subject should ever be investigated by a judicial tribunal.

This Thornburg was an unusually bold and determined man, fruitful in inventing mischief, as he was reckless and daring in its prosecution. His appetite for ardent spirits was of the most inordinate kind. During the journey across the country, I con- stantly carried a large two-gallon bottle of whiskey, in which I deposited various kinds of lizards and serpents and when we arrived at the Columbia the vessel was almost full of these crawling creatures. I left the bottle on board the brig when I paid my first visit to the Wallamraet falls, and on my return found that Thornburg had decanted the liquor from the precious reptiles which I had destined for immortality, and he and one of his pot companions had been " happy" upon it for a whole day. This appeared to me almost as bad as the " tapping of the Admiral," practised with such success by the British seamen; but unlike their commander, I did not discover the theft until too late to save my specimens, which were in consequence all destroyed.

11th. — Mr. Nuttall, who has just returned from the dalles, where he has been spending some weeks, brings distressing intelligence from above. It really seems that the " Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company" is devoted to destruction ; disasters meet them at every turn, and as yet none of their schemes have prospered. This has not been for want of energy or exertion. Captain W. has pursued the plans which seemed

ACEOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 225

to him best adapted for insuring success, witli the most indefati- gable perseverance and industry, and has endured hardships without murmui'ing, which would have prostrated many a more robust man ; nevertheless, he has not succeeded in making the business of fishing and trapping productive, and as we can- not divine the cause, we must attribute it to the Providence that rules the destinies of men and controls all human enter- prises.

Two evenings since, eight Sandwich Islanders, a white man and an Indian woman, left the cascades in a large canoe laden with salmon, for the brig. The river was as usual rough and tempestuous, the wind blew a heavy gale, the canoe was cap- sized, and eight out of the ten sank to rise no more. The two who escaped, islanders, have taken refuge among the In- dians at the village below, and will probably join us in a few days.

Intelligence has also been received of the murder of one of Wyeth's principal trappers, named Abbot, and another wjiite man who accompanied him, by the Banneck Indians. The two men were on their way to the Columbia with a large load of beaver, and had stopped at the lodge of the Banneck chief, by whom they had been hospitably entertained. After they left, the chief, with several of his young men, concealed themselves in a thicket, near which the unsuspicious trappers passed, and shot and scalped them both.

These Indians have been heretofore harmless, and have always appeared to wish to cultivate the friendship of the white people. The only reason that can be conceived for this change in their sentiments, is that some of their number may lately have received injury from the white traders, and, with true Indian animosity, they determined to wreak their vengeance upon the whole race.

Thus it is always unsafe to travel among Indians, as no one

2i)

226

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

knows at what moment a tribe which has always been friendly, may receive ill treatment from thoughtless, or evil-designing men, and the innocent suffer for the deeds of the guilty.

Avgust 19th. — This morning, Captain Thing (Wyeth's part- ner) arrived from the interior. Poor man ! he looks very much worn by fatigue and hardships, and seven years older than when I last saw him. He passed through the Snake country from Fort Hall, without knowing of the hostile disposition of the Bannecks, but, luckily for him, only met small parties of them, who feared to attack his camp. He remarked symptoms of distrust and coolness in their manner, for which he w-as, at the time, unable to account. As I have yet been only an hour in his company, and as a large portion of this time was consumed in his business affairs, I have not been able to obtain a very par- ticular account of his meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet last spring, a rumor of which we heard several weeks since. From what I have been enabled to gather, amid the hurry and bustle consequent upon his arrival, the circumstances appear to be briefly these. He had made a camp on Salmon river, and, as usual, piled up his goods in front of it, and put his horses in a pen erected temporarily for the purpose, when, at about day- break, one of his sentries heard a gun discharged near. He went immediately to Captain T.'s tent to inform him of it, and at that instant a yell sounded from an adjacent thicket, and about five hundred Indians, — three hundred horse and two hundred foot, — rushed out into the open space in front. The mounted savages were dashing to and fro across the line of the camp, discharging their pieces with frightful rapidity, while those who had not horses, crawled around to take them in the rear.

Notwithstanding the galling fire which the Indians were con- stantly pouring into them. Captain T. succeeded in driving his horses into the thicket behind, and securing them there, placing over them a guard of three men as a check to the savages who

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 227

were approaching from that quarter. He then threw himself, with the remainder of his little band, behind the bales of goods, and returned the fire of the enemy. He states that occa- sionally he was gratified by the sight of an Indian tumbling from his horse, and at such times a dismal, savage yell was uttered by the rest, who then always fell back a little, but re- tui-ned immediately to the charge with more than their former fury.

At length the Indians, apparently wearied by their unsuccess- ful attempts to dislodge the white men, changed their mode of at- tack, and rode upon the slight fortification, rapidly and steadily. Although they lost a man or two by this (for them) unu- sually bold proceeding, yet they succeeded in driving the brave little band of whites to the cover of the bushes. They then took possession of the goods, &c., which had been used as a defence, and retired to a considerable distance, where they were soon joined by their comrades on foot, who had utterly failed in their attempt to obtain the horses. In a short time, a man was seen advancing from the main body of Indians towards the scene of combat, holding up his hand as a sign of amity, and an intima- tion of the suspension of hostilities, and requested a " talk" with the white people. Captain T., with difficulty repressing his in- clination to shoot the savage herald down, was induced, in con- sideration of the safety of his party, to dispatch an uiterpreter towards him. The only information that the Blackfeet wished to communicate was, that having obtained all the goods of the white people, they were now willing that they should continue their journey in peace, and that they should not again be molest- ed. The Indians then departed, and the white men struck back on their trail, towards Fort Hall. Captain Thing lost every thing he had with him, all his clothing, papers, journals, &c. But he should probably be thankful that he escaped with his life, for

228 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

it is known to be very ususual for these hostile Indians to spare the lives of white men, when in their power, the acquisi- tion of property being generally with them only a secondary consideration.

Captain T. had two men severely, but not mortally, wounded. The Indians had seven killed, and a considerable number wounded.

20th. — Several days since a poor man came here in a most deplorable condition, having been gashed, stabbed and bruised in a manner truly frightful. He had been travelling on foot con- stantly for fifteen days, exposed to the broiling sun, with nothing to eat during the whole of this time, except the very few roots which he had been able to find. He was immediately put in the hospital here, and furnished with every thing necessary for his comfort, as well as surgical attendance. He states that he left Monterey, in California, in the spring, in companj'' with seven men, for the purpose of coming to the Wallammet to join Mr. Young, an American, who is now settled in that country. They met with no accident until they arrived at a village of Potdmeos Indians,* about ten days journey south of this. Not knowing the character of these Indians, they were not on their guard, allowing them to enter their camp, and finally to obtain posses- sion of their weapons. The Indians then fell upon the defence- less little band with their tomahawks and knives, (having no fire arms themselves, and not knowing the use of those they had taken,) and, ere the white men had recovered from the panic which the sudden and unexpected attack occasioned, killed four of them. The remaining four fought with their knives as long as they were able, but were finally overpowered, and this poor fellow left upon the ground, covered with wounds, and in a state

* Called by the inhabitants of this country, the" rascally Indians,''' fcom their uuilbrnily evil disposition, and hostility to white people.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 229

of insensibility. How long he remained in this situation, he has no means of ascertaining ; but upon recovering, the place was vacated by all the actors in the bloody scene, except his three dead companions, who were lying stark and stiff where they fell. By considerable exertion, he was enabled to drag himself into a thicket near, for the purpose of concealm'ent, as he rightly con- jectured that their captors would soon return to secure the trophies of their treacherous victory, and bury the corpses. This happened almost immediately after ; the scalps were torn from the heads of the slain, and the mangled bodies removed for inter- ment. After the most dreadful and excrutiating sufferings, as we can well believe, the poor man arrived here, and is doing well under the excellent and skilful care of Doctor Gairdner. I ex- amined most of his wounds yesterday. He is literally covered with them, but one upon the lower part of his face is the most frightful. It was made by a single blow of a tomahawk, the point of which entered the upper lip, just below the nose, cutting entirely through both the upper and lower jaws and chin, and passing deep into the side of the neck, narrowly missing the large jugular vein. He says he perfectly recollects receiving this wound. It was inflicted by a powerful savage, who at the same time tripped him with his foot, accelerating his fall. He also remembers distinctly feeling the Indian's long knife pass five separate times into his body ; of what occurred after this he knows nothing. This is certainly by far the most horrible looking wound I ever saw, rendered so, however, by injudicious treatment and entire want of care in the proper apposition of the sundered parts ; he simply bound it up as well as he could with his handkerchief, and his extreme anguish caused him to forget the necessity of accuracy in this respect. The consequence is, that the lower part of his face is dreadfully contorted, one side being considerably lower than the other. A union by the

230 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

first intention lias been formed, and the ill-arranged parts are uniting.

This case has pi'oduced considerable excitement in our little circle. The P<jtameos have more than once been guilty of acts of this kind, and some of the gentlemen of the fort have proposed fitting out an expedition to destroy the whole nation, but this scheme will probably not be carried into effect.

ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 231

CHAPTER XIV.

Indians of the Columbia — their melancholy condition — neparture of Mr. JWit- tall and Dr. Gairdner — A 7ieiu vocation — fli-rival of the Rev. Samuel Parker — his object — Departure of the American brig — Sivans — Indian mode of taking them — A large wolf — An Indian mummy — A night adventure — A discovery, and restoration of stolen property — Fraternal tenderness of an Indian — Indian vengeance — Death of ff'ashSma, the Indian girl — " Busy- body ^^* the little chief— A village of Kowalitsk Indians — Ceremony of "making medicine''' — Exposure of an impostor — Success of legitimate medi- cines— Departure from Fort Vancouver for a visit to the interior — Arrival of a stranger — "Cape Horn'''' — Tilki, the Indian chief — Indian villages — Arrival at Fort Walla-walla — Sharp-tailed grouse — Commencement of a journey to the Blue mountains.

The Indians of the Columbia were once a numerous and pow- erful people ; the shore of the river, for scores of miles, was lined with their villages ; the council fire was frequently lighted, the pipe passed round, and the destinies of the nation deliberated upon. War was declared against neighboring tribes ; the deadly tomahawk was lifted, and not buried until it was red with the blood of the savage; the bounding deer was hunted, killed, and his antlers ornamented the wigwam of the red man ; the scalps of his enemies hung drying in the smoke of his lodge, and the Indian was happy. Now, alas ! where is he ? — gone ; — gathered to his fathers and to his happy hunting grounds ; his place knows him no more. The spot where once stood the thickly peopled vil- lage, the smoke curling and wreathing above the closely packed lodges, the lively children playing in the front, and their indolent

232 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

parents lounging on their mats, is now only indicated by a heap of undistinguishable ruins. The depopulation here has been truly fearful. A gentleman told me, that only four years ago, as he wandered near what had formerly been a thickly peopled village, he counted no less than sixteen dead, men and woitien, lying unburied and festering in the sun in front of their habitations. Within the houses all were sick ; not ^one had escaped the contagion ; upwards of a hundred individuals, men, women, and children, were writhing in agony on the floors of the houses, with no one to render them any assistance. Some were in the dying struggle, and clenching with the convul- sive grasp of death their disease-worn companions, shrieked and howled in the last sharp agony.

Probably there does not now exist one, where, five years ago, there were a hundred Indians; and in sailing up the river, from the cape to the cascades, the only evidence of the existence of the Indian, is an occasional miserable wigwam, with a few wretched, half-starved occupants. In some other places they are rather more numerous; but the thoughtful observer cannot avoid perceiving that in a very few years the race must, in the nature of things become extinct; and the time is probably not far distant, when the little trinkets and toys of this people will be picked up by the curious, and valued as mementoes of a nation passed away for ever from the face of the earth. The aspect of things is very melancholy. It seems as if the fiat of the Creator had gone forth, that these poor denizens of the forest and the stream should go hence, and be seen of men no more.

In former years, when the Indians were numerous, long after the establishment of this fort, it was not safe for the white men attached to it to venture beyond the protection of its guns with- out being fully armed. Such was the jealousy of the natives towards them, that various deep laid schemes were practised to obtain possession of the post, and massacre all whom it had har-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 233

bored; now, however, they are as submissive as children. Some have even entered into the service of the whites, and when once the natural and persevering indolence of the man is worn off', he will work well and make himself useful.

About two hundred miles southward, the Indians are said to be in a much more flourishing condition, and their hostility to the white people to be most deadly. They believe that we brought with us the fatal fever which has ravaged this portion of the , country, and the consequence is, that they, kill without mercy every white man who trusts himself amongst them.

October 1st. — Doctor Gairdner, the surgeon of Fort Vancouver, took passage a few days ago to the Sandwich Islands, in one of the Company's vessels. He has been suffering for several months, with a pulmonary affection, and is anxious to escape to a milder and more salubrious climate. In his absence, the charge of the hospital will devolve on me, and my time will thus be employed through the coming winter. There are at present but few cases of sickness, mostly ague and fever, so prevalent at this season. My companion, Mr. Nuttall, was also a passenger in the same vessel. From the islands, he will probably visit California, and either return to the Columbia by the next ship, and take the route across the mountains, or double Cape Horn to reach his home.

IQth. — Several days since, the Rev. Samuel Parker, of Ithaca, N. York, arrived at the fort. He left his home last May, travel- led to the rendezvous on the Colorado, with the fur company of Mr.Fontinelle, and performed the remainder of the journey with the Nez Perce or Cheaptin Indians. His object is to examine the country in respect to its agricultural and other facilities, with a view to the establishment of missions among the Indians. He will probably return to the States next spring, and report the

30

234 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

result of his observations to the board of commissioners, by whose advice his pioneer journey has been undertaken.*

On the 17th, I embarked with this gentleman in a canoe, for a visit to the lower part of the river. We arrived at the American brig in the afternoon, on board of which we quartered for the night, and the next morning early, the vessel cast off from the shore. She has her cargo of furs and salmon on board, and is bound to Boston, via the Sandwich and Society Islands. Mr. Parker took passage in her to Fort George, and in the afternoon I returned in my canoe to Vancouver.

December \st. — The weather is now unusually fine. Instead of the drenching rains which generally prevail during the wintei; months, it has been for some weeks clear and cool, the ther- mometer ranging from 35° to 45°.

The ducks and geese, which have swarmed throughout the country during the latter part of the autumn, are leaving us, and the swans are arriving in great numbers. These are here, as in all other places, very shy; it is difficult to approach them without cover; but the Indians have adopted a mode of killing them which is very successful ; that of drifting upon the flocks at night, in a canoe, in the bow of which a large fire of pitch pine has been kindled. The swans are dazzled, and apparently stupified by the bright light, and fall easy victims to the craft of the sportsman.

2Qth. — Yesterday one of the Canadians took an enormous wolf in a beaver-trap. It is probably a distinct species from the com- mon one, (lupus,) much larger and stronger, and of a yellowish cinereous color. The man states that he found considerable diffi- culty in capturing him, even after'the trap had been fastened on

* Mr. Parker has since published an account of this tour, to which the reader is referred, for much valuable information, relative to tlie condition of the Indians on our western frontier.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 235

his foot. Unlike tlie lupus, (which is cowardly and cringing when made prisoner,) he showed fight, and seizing the pole in his teeth, with which the man attempted to despatch him, with one backward jerk, threw his assailant to the ground, and darted at him, until checked by the trap chain. He was' finally shot, and I obtained his skin, which I have preserved.

I have just had a visit from an old and intelligent Indian chief, who lives near. It is now almost midnight, but for the last hour I have heard the old man wandering about like an unquiet spirit, in the neighborhood of my little mansion, and singing snatches of the wild, but sweetly musical songs of his tribe. It is a bitter night, and supposing the old man might be cold, I invited him to a seat by my comfortable fire.

He says, ," eighty snows have chilled the earth since Mani- quon was born." Maniquon has been a great warrior ; he has himself taken twenty scalps between the rising and setting of the sun. Like most old people, he is garrulous, and, like all Indians, fond of boasting of his warlike deeds. I can sit for hours and hear old Maniquon relate the particulars of his numerous cam- paigns, his ambushes, and his " scrimmages," as old Hawk-eye would say. When he once gets into the spirit of it, he springs upon his feet, his old, sunken eyes sparkle like diamonds set in bronze, and he whirls his shrunken and naked arm around his head, as though it still held the deadly tomahawk. But in the midst of his excitement, seeming suddenly to recollect his fallen state, he sinks into his chair.

" Maniquon is not a warrior now — he will never raise his axe again — his young men have deserted his lodge — his sons will go down to their graves, and the squaws will not sing of their great deeds."

I have several times heard him speak the substance of these words in his own language, and in one instance he concluded thus:

236 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

" And who made my people what they are ?" This question was put in a low voice, almost a whisper, and was accompanied by a look so savage and malignant, that I almost quailed before the imbecile old creature. I, however, answered quickly, with- out giving him time to reply to his own question.

" The Great Spirit, Maniquon," pointing with my finger im- pressively upwards.

" Yes, yes — it vms the Great Spirit ; it was not the white man /" I could have been almost angry with the old Indian for the look of deadly hostility with which he uttered these last words, but that I sympathized with his wounded pride, and pitied his sorrows too much to harbor any other feeling than commise- ration for his manifold wrongs.

February 3d, 1836. — During a visit to Fort William, last week, I saw, as I wandered through the forest, about three miles from the house, a canoe, deposited, as is usual, in the branches of a tree, some fourteen feet from the ground. Knowing that it contained the body of an Indian, I ascended to it for the purpose of abstracting the skull ; but upon examination, what was my surprise to find a perfect, embalmed body of a young female, in a state of preservation equal to any which I had seen from the catacombs of Thebes. I determined to obtain possession of it, but as this was not the proper time to carry it away, I returned to the fort, and said nothing of the discovery which I had made.

That night, at the witching hour of twelve, I furnished myself with a rope, and launched a small canoe, which I paddled up against the current to a point opposite the mummy tree. Here I ran my canoe ashore, and removing my shoes and stockings, proceeded to the tree, which was about a hundred yards from the river. I ascended, and making the rope fast around the body, lowered it gently to the ground ; then arranging the fabric which had been displaced, as neatly as the darkness allowed, I de- scended, and taking the body upon my shoulders, bore it to my

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 237

canoe, and pushed off into the stream. On arriving at the fort, I deposited my prize in the store house, and sewed around it a large Indian mat, to give it the appearance of a bale of guns. Being on a visit to the fort, with Indians whom I had engaged to paddle my canoe, I thought it unsafe to take the mummy on board when I returned to Vancouver the next day, but left directions with Mr. Walker to stow it away under the hatches of a little schooner, which was running twice a week between the two forts.

On the arrival of this vessel, several days after, I received, instead of the body, a note from Mr. Walker, stating that an Indian had called at the fort, and demanded the corpse. He was the brother of the deceased, and had been in the habit of visiting the tomb of his sister every year. He had now come for that purpose, from his residence near the " turn-water,^'' (cascades,) and his keen eye had detected the intrusion of a stranger on the spot hallowed to him by many successive pil- grimages. The canoe of his sister was tenantless, and he knew the spoiler to have been a white man, by the tracks upon the beach, which did not incline inward like those of an Indian.

The case was so clearly made out, that Mr. W. could not deny the fact of the body being in the house, and it was accord- ingly delivered to him, with a present of several blankets, to prevent the circumstance from operating upon his mind to the prejudice of the white people. The poor Indian took the body of his sister upon his shoulders, and as he walked away, grief got the better of his stoicism, and the sound of his weeping was heard long after he had entered the forest.

25i/^. — Several weeks ago the only son of Ke-ez-a-no, the prin- cipal chief of the Chinooks, died. The father was almost distracted with grief, and during the first paroxysm attempted to take the life of the boy's mother, supposing that she had exerted an evil influence over him which had caused his death. She

238 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

was compelled to fly in consequence, and put herself under the protection of Dr. McLoughlin, who found means to send her to her people below. Disappointed in this scheme of vengeance, the chief determined to sacrifice all whom he thought had ever wronged his son, or treated him with indignity ; and the first victim whom he selected was a very pretty and accomplished Chinook girl, named Waskema, who was remarkable for the exceeding beauty of her long black hair, Waskema had been solicited by the boy in marriage, but had refused him, and the matter had been long forgotten, until it was revived in the re- collection of the father by the death of his son. Ke-az-a-no despatched two of his slaves to Fort William, (where the girl was at that time engaged in making moccasins for Mr. W. and where I had seen her a short time previously,) who hid themselves in the neighborhood until the poor creature had embarked in her canoe alone to return to her people,- when they suddenly rushed upon her from the forest which skirted the river, and shot two balls through her bosom. The body was then thrown into the water, and the canoe broken to pieces on the beach.

Tapeo the brother of Waskema delivered to me a letter from Mr. W. detailing these circumstances, and amid an abundance of tears which he shed for the loss of his only and beloved sister, he denounced the heaviest vengeance upon her murderer. These threats, however, I did not regard, as I knew the man would never dare to raise his hand against his chief, but as expression relieves the overcharged heart, I did not check his bursts of grief and indignation-

A few days after this, Ke-ez-a-no himself stalked into my room. After sitting a short time in silence, he asked if I believed him guilty of the murder of Waskema. I replied that I did, and that if the deed had been committed in my country, he would be hanged. He denied all agency in the matter, and placing one hand upon his bosom, and pointing upwards with the other, called

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 239

God to witness that he was innocent. For the moment I almost believed his asservations ; but calling to mind the strong and un- deniable evidence against him, with a feeling of horror and re- pugnance, I opened the door and bowed him out of the house.

March \st, — There is an amusing little Indian living in this neighborhood, who calls himself a " tanas tie,''^ (little chief,) and he is so probably in every sense of the term. In person, he stands about four feet six, in his moccasins ; but no exquisite in the fashionable world, no tinselled dandy in high life, can strut and stamp, and fume with more dignity and self consequence. His name, he says, is Qualaskin; but in the fort, he is known by the cognomen of " busy body," from his restless anxiety to pry into every body's business, and his curiosity to know the English name of every article he sees; ikata ookook? — ikata ooA-ooA;?(whatis this? — what is this 1) kahtah pasiooks yahhalle ? (what is its English name?) are expressions which he is dinning in your ears, when- ever he enters a room in the fort. If you answer him, he at- tempts the pronunciation after you, and it is often not a little ludicrous. He is evidently proud of the name the white people have given him, not understanding its import, but supposing it to be a title of great honor and dignity. If he is asked his Indian name, he answers very modestly, Qualaskin, (muddy river,) but if his pasiooks yahhalle is required, he puffs up his little per- son to its utmost dimensions, and tells you with a simper of pride and self complacency, that it is " mizzy moddyy

IQth. — Doctor W. F. Tolmie, one of the surgeons of the Hud- son's Bay Company, has just arrived from Fort Langley, on the coast, and has relieved me of the charge of the hospital, which will afford me the opportunity of peregrinating again in pursuit of specimens. The spring is just opening, the birds are arriving, the plants are starting from the ground, and in a kw weeks, the wide prairies of the Columbia will appear like the richest flower gardens.

240 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

May ISth. — Two days ago I left the fort, and am now en- camped on a plain below Warrior's point. Near me are several large lodges of Kowalitsk Indians ; in all probably one hundred persons. As usual, they give me some trouble by coming around and lolling about my tent, and importuning me for the various little articles that they see. My camp-keeper, however, (a Kli- katat,) is an excellent fellow, and has no great love for Kowalitsk Indians, so that the moment he sees them becoming troublesome, he clears the coast, sans ceremonie. There is in one of the lodges a very pretty little girl, sick with intermittent fever; and to- day the " medicine man" has been exercising his functions upon the poor little patient ; pressing upon its stomach with his brawny hands until it shrieked with the pain, singing and muttering his incantations, whispering in its ears, and exhorting the evil spirit to pass out by the door, &c. These exhibitions would be laughable did they not involve such serious consequences, and for myself I always feel so much indignation against the unfeeling im- postor who operates, and pity for the deluded creatures who submit to it, that any emotions but those of risibility are excited.

I had a serious conversation with the father of this child, in which I attempted to prove to him, and to some twenty or thirty Indians who were squatted about the ground near, that the " medicine man" was a vile impostor, that he was a fool and a liar, and that his manipulations were calculated to increase the sufferings of the patient instead of relieving them. They all listened in silence, and with great attention to my remarks, and the wily conjurer himself had the full benefit of them : he stood by during the whole time, assuming an expression of callous indifference which not even my warmest vituperations could affect. Finally I offered to exhibit the strongest proof of the truth of what I had been saying, by pledging myself to cure the child in three days, provided the " medicine man" was dismissed with- out delay. This, the father told me, required some consideration

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 241

and consultation with his people, and I immediately left the lodge and took the way to my camp, to allow them an opportunity of discussing the matter alone.

Early next morning the Indian visited me, with the infor- mation that the " medicine man" had departed, and he was now anxious that I should make trial of my skill. I immediately administered to the child an active cathartic, followed by sul- phate of quinine, which checked the disease, and in two days the patient was perfectly restored.

In consequence of my success in this case, I had an applica- tion to administer medicine to two other children similarly affected. My stock of quinine being exhausted, I determined to substitute an extract of the bark of the dogwood, (Cornus Nut- talli,) and taking one of the parents into the wood with his blan- ket, I soon chipped ofi' a plentiful supply, returned, boiled it in his own kettle, and completed the preparation in his lodge, with most of the Indians standing by, and staring at me, to compre- hend the process. This was exactly what I wished ; and as I proceeded, I took some pains to explain the whole matter to them, in order that they might at a future time be enabled to make use of a really valuable medicine, which grows abundantly every where throughout the country. I have often thought it strange that the sagacity of the Indians should not long ago have made them acquainted with this remedy ; and I believe, if they had used it, they would not have had to mourn the loss of hundreds, or even thousands of their people who have been swept away by the demon of ague and fever.

I administered to each of the children about a scruple of the extract per day. The second day they escaped the paroxysm, and on the third were entirely well.

June 26th. — I left Vancouver yesterday, with the summer brigade, for a visit to Walla-walla, and its vicinity. The gentle-

31

242 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

men of the party are, Peter Ogden, Esq., chief factor, bound to New Caledonia, Archibald McDonald, Esq., for Colville, and Samuel Black, Esq., for Thompson's river, and the brigade con- sists of sixty men, with nine boats.

21th. — We arrived yesterday at the upper cascades, and made in the course of the day three portages. As is usual in this place, it rained almost constantly, and the poor men engaged in carrying the goods, were completely drenched. A considerable number of Indians are employed here in fishing, and they supply us with an abundance of salmon. Amonij them I recognise many of my old friends from below.

2Qth. — This morning the Indian wife of one of the men gave birth to a little girl. The tent in which she was lying was within a few feet of the one which I occupied, and we had no intimation of the matter being in progress until we heard the crying of the infant. It is truly astonishing with what ease the parturition of these women is performed ; they generally require no assistance in delivery, being fully competent to managing the whole paraphernalia themselves. In about half an hour after this event we got under way, and the woman walked to the boat, carrying her new born infant on her back, embarked, laughed, and talked as usual, and appeared in every respect as well as if nothing had happened.

This woman is a most noble specimen of bone and muscle, and so masculine in appearance, that were she to cast the petticoat, and don the breeches, the cheat would never be discovered, and but few of the lords of the creation would be willing to face the Amazon. She is particularly useful to her husband. As he is becoming rather infirm, she can protect him most admirably. If he wishes to cross a stream in travelling without horses or boats, she plunges in without hesitation, takes him upon her back, and lands him safely and expeditiously upon the opposite bank. She can also kill and dress an elk, I'un down and shoot a buffalo,

ACROSS THE ROCKt MOUNTAINS, ETC. 243

or spear a salmon for her husband's breakfast in the morning, as well as any man-servant he could employ. Added to all this, she has, in several instances, saved his life in skirmishes with Indians, at the imminent risk of her own, so that he has some reason- to be proud of her.

In the afternoon, we passed the bold, basaltic point, known to the voyageurs by the name of " Cape Horn." The wind here blew a perfect hurricane, and but for the consummate skill of those who managed our boats, we must have had no little difficulty.

30^/t. — We were engaged almost the whole of this day in making portages, and I had, in consequence, some opportunity of prosecuting my researches on the land. We have now passed the range of vegetation ; there are no trees or even shrubs ; no- thing but huge, jagged rocks of basalt, and interminable sand heaps. I found here a large and beautiful species of marmot, (the Arctomys Richardsonii,) several of which I shot. Encamped in the evening at the village of the Indian chief, Tilki. I had often heard of this man, but I now saw him for the first time. His person is rather below the middle size, but his features are good, with a Roman cast, and his eye is deep black, and unu- sually fine. He appears to be remarkably intelligent, and half a century before the generality of his people in civilization.

July Sd. — This morning we came to the open prairies, covered with wormwood bushes. The appearance, and strong odor of these, forcibly remind me of my journey across the mou-ntains, when we frequently saw no vegetation for weeks, except this dry and barren looking shrub.

The Indians here are numerous, and are now enfjajred in catching salmon, lamprey eels, &c. They take thousands of the latter, and they are seen hanging in great numbers in their lodges to dry in the smoke. As soon as the Indians see us approach, they leave their wigwams, and run out towards us,

244 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

frequently wading to their breasts in the water, to get near the boats. Their constant cry is pi-pi, pi-pi, (tobacco, tobacco,) and they bring a great variety of matters to trade for this de- sirable article ; fish, living birds of various kinds, young wolves, foxes, minks, &c.

On the evenin<T of the 6th, we arrived at Walla-walla or Nez Perces fort, where I was kindly received by Mr. Pambrun, the superintendent.

The next day the brigade left us for the interior, and I shouldered my gun for an excursion through the neighborhood. On the west side of the little Walla-walla river, I saw, during a walk of two miles, at least thirty rattlesnakes, and killed five that would not get out of my way. They all seemed willing to dispute the ground with me, shaking their rattles, coiling and darting at me with great fury. I returned to the fort in the afternoon with twenty-two sharp-tailed grouse, (Tetrao phasi- anellus,) the product of my day's shooting.

2bth. — I mounted my horse this morning for a journey to the Blue mountains. I am accompanied by a young half breed named Babtiste Dorion,* who acts as guide, groom, interpreter, &c., and I have a pack horse to carry my little nicTc-nacheries. We shaped our course about N. E. over the sandy prairie, and in the evening encamped on the Morro river, having made about thirty miles. On our way, we met two Walla-walla Indians driving down a large band of horses. They inform us that the Snakes have crossed the mountain to commence their annual thieving of horses, and they are taking them away to have them secure. I shall need to keep a good look out to my own small caravan, or I shall be under the necessity of turning pedestrian.

* This is the son of old Pierre Dorion, who makes such a consjiicuous figure in Irving's " Astoria."

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIINS, ETC. 245

CHAPTER XV.

A village of Kayoiise Indians — their occnpation — appearance and dresses of the women— family laorship — its good effects — Visit to the Blue mountains — Dusky grouse — Return to Walla-walla — Arrival of JMr. JHcLeod, and the missionaries — Letters from home — Death of Antoine Goddin, the trapper — A renegado -white man — Assault by the Walla-walla Indians — JYlissionary duties — Passage do~tvn the Columbia — Rapids — A dog for supper — Prairies onfre — A nocturnal visit — Fishing Indians — Their romantic appearance — Salmon huts — The shoots — Dangerous navigation — Death of Tilki — Seals — Indian stoicism and co7itempt of pain — Skookoom, the strong chief — his death — JMaiming^ an evidence of grief — Arrival at Fort Vancouver — A visit to Fort George — Indian cemeteries — Lewis and Clarke's hozise — A medal — Visit to Chinook — Hospitality of the Indians — Chinamus'' house — The idol — Canine inmates.

July 26th. — At noon, to-day, we arrived at the Utalla, or Emmitilly river, where we found a large village of Kayouse In- dians, engaged in preparing kamas. Large quantities of this root were strewed about on mats and buffalo robes ; some in a crude state, and a vast quantity pounded, to be made into cakes for winter store. There are of the Indians, about twelve or fifteen lodges. A very large one, about sixty feet long by fifteen broad, is occupied by the chief, and his immediate family. This man I saw when I arrived at Walla-walla, and I have accepted an invitation to make my home in his lodge while I remain here. The house is really a very comfortable one; the rays of the sun are completely excluded, and the ground is covered with buffalo robes. There are in the chief's lodge about twenty women, all busy as usual ; some pounding kamas, others making

246 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

leathern dresses, moccasins, &c. Several of the younger of these are very good looking, — I might almost say handsome. Their heads are of the natural form, — not flattened and contorted in the horrible manner of the Chinooks ; — their faces are in- clining to oval, and their eyes have a peculiarly sleepy and languishing appearance. They seem as if naturally inclined to lasciviousness, but if this feeling exists, it is effectually checked by their self-enacted laws, which are very severe in this respect, and in every instance rigidly enforced. The dresses of the women, (unlike the Chinooks, they all have dresses,) are of deer or antelope skin, more or less ornamented with beads and hy- quds.* It consists of one piece, but the part covering the bust, projects over the lower portion of the garment, and its edges are cut into strings, to which a quantity of blue beads are generally attached.

In the evening all the Indians belonglncr to the villasre assembled in our lodge, and, with the chief for minister, performed divine service, or family worship. This, I learn, is their invari- able practice twice every twenty-four hours, at sunrise in the morning, and after supper in the evening. When all the people had gathered, our large lodge was filled. On entering, every person squatted on the ground, and the cleric (a sort of sub- chief) gave notice that the Deity, would now be addressed. Immediately the whole audience rose to their knees, and the chief supplicated for about ten minutes in a very solemn, but low tone of voice, at the conclusion of which an amen was pronounced by the whole company, in a loud, swelling sort of groan. Three hymns were then sung, several of the individuals present leading in rotation, and at the conclusion of each, another amen. The chief then pronounced a short exhortation, occupying about fifteen minutes, which was repeated by the clerk at his elbow in a voice loud enough to be heard by the whole assembly. At the

* A long white shell, of the genus Dcntalium, founil on the coast.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 247

conclusion of this, each person rose, and walked to one of tlie doors of the lodge, where, making a low inclination of his body, and pronouncing the words " tots sekan" (good night,) to the chief, he departed to his home.

I shall hear this ceremony every night and morning while I remain, and so far from being irksome, it is agreeable to me. It is pleasant to see these poor degraded creatures performing a religious service ; for to say nothing of the good influence which it will exert in improving their present condition, it will probably soften and harmonize their feelings, and render them fitter sub- jects for the properly qualified religious instruction which it is desirable they may some day receive.

The next morning, my friend the chief furnished me with fresh horses, and I and my attendant, with two Indian guides, started for a trip to the mountain. We passed up one of the narrow valleys or gorges which here run at right angles from the alpine land, and as we ascended, the scenery became more and more wild, and the ground rough and difficult of passage, but I had under me one of the finest horses I ever rode; he seemed perfectly acquainted with the country ; I had but to give him his head, and not attempt to direct him, and he carried me triumphantly through every diffi- culty. Immediately as we I'eached the upper land, and the pine trees, we saw large flocks of the dusky grouse, (Tetrao obscnrvs,) a num- ber of which we killed. Other birds were, however, very scarce. I am at least two months too late, and I cannot too much regret the circumstance. Here is a rich field for the ornithologist at the proper season. We returned to our lodge in the evening loaded with grouse, but. with very few specimens to increase my collec- tion.

29th. — Early this morning our Indians struck their lodges, and commenced makina; all their numerous movables into bales for packing on the horses. I admired the facility and despatch with which this was done ; the women alone worked at it, the

/

248 ISAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

men lolling around, smoking and talking, and not even once di- recting their fair partners in their task. The whole camp tra- velled with me to Walla-walla, where we arrived the next day.

Sept. 1st. — Mr. John M'Leod, a chief trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, arrived this morning from the rendezvous, with a small trading party. I had been anxiously expecting this gentle- man for several weeks, as I intended to return with him to Van- couver. He is accompanied by several Presbyterian missiona- ries, the Rev. Mr. Spalding and Doctor Whitman, with their wives, and Mr. Gray, teacher. Doctor Whitman presented me with a large pacquet of letters from my beloved friends at home. I need not speak of the emotions excited by their reception, nor of the trembling anxiety with which I tore open the envelope and devoured the contents. This is the first intelligence which I have received from them since I left the state of Missouri, and was as unexpected as it was delightful.

Mr. M'Leod informed me of the murder of Antoine Goddin, the half-breed trapper, by the Blackfeet Indians, at Fort Hall. — A band of these Indians appeared on the shore of the Portneuf river, opposite the fort, headed by a white man named Bird. — This man requested Goddin, whom he saw on the opposite side of the river, to cross to him with a canoe, as he had beaver which he wished to trade. The poor man accordingly embarked alone, and landing near the Indians, joined the circle which they had made, and smoked the pipe of peace with them. While Goddin was smoking in his turn, Bird gave a sign to the Indians, and a volley was fired into his back. While he was yet living, Bird himself tore the scalp from the poor fellow's head, and deli- berately cut Captain Wyeth's initials, N. J. W. in large letters upon his forehead. He then hallowed to the fort people, telling them to bury the carcass if they wished, and immediately went off with his party.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 249

This Bird was formerly attached to the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, and was made prisoner by the Blackfeet, in a skirmish several years ago. He has since remained with them, and has become a great chief, and leader of their war parties. He is said to be a man of good education, and to possess the most unbound- ed influence over the savage people among whom he dwells. He was known to be a personal enemy of Goddin, whom he had sworn to destroy on the first opportunity.

We also hear, that three of Captain Wyeth's men who lately visited us, had been assaulted on their way to Fort Hall, by a band of Walla-walla Indians, who, after beating them severely, took from them all their horses, traps, ammunition, and clothing. They were, however, finally induced to return them each a horse and gun, in order that they might proceed to the interior, to get fresh supplies. This was a matter of policy on the part of the Indians, for if the white men had been compelled to travel on foot, they would have come immediately here to procure fresh horses, &c., and thus exposed the plunderers. Mr. Pambrun is acquainted with the ringleader of this band of marauders, and intends to take the first opportunity of inflicting upon him due punishment, as well as to compel him to make ample restitution for the stolen property, and broken heads of the unoffending trappers.

I have had this evening, some interesting conversation with our guests, the missionaries. They appear admirably qualified for the arduous duty to which they have devoted themselves, their minds being fully alive to the mortifications and trials inci- dent to a residence among wild Indians ; but they do not shrink from the task, believing it to be their religious duty to engage in this work. The ladies have borne the journey astonishingly ; they look robust and healthy.

3d. — Mr. M'Leod and myself embarked in a large bat-

teau, with six men, and bidding farewell to Mr. Pambrun and the

missionaries, were soon gliding down the river. We ran, to-day,

32

250 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

several rapids, and in the evening encamped about fifteen miles below the mouth of the Utalla river.

This running of rapids appears rather a dangerous business to those unaccustomed to it, and it is in reality sufficiently hazard- ous, except when performed by old and skilful hands. Every thing depends upon the men who manage the bow and stern of the boat. The moment she enters the rapid, the two guides lay aside their oars taking in their stead paddles, such as ai-e used in the management of a canoe. The middle-men ply their oars; the guides brace themselves against the gunwale of the boat, placing their paddles edgewise down her sides, and away she goes over the curling, foaming, and hissing waters, like a race horse.

We passed to-day several large lodges of Indians, from whom we wished to have purchased fish, but they had none, or were not willing to spare any, so that we were compelled to purchase a dog for supper. I have said we, but I beg leave to correct my- self, as I was utterly averse to the proceeding ; not, however, from any particular dislike to the quality of the food, (I have eaten it repeatedly, and relished it,) but I am always unwilling, unless when suffering absolute want, to take the life of so noble and faithful an animal. Our hungry oarsmen, however, appeared to have no such scruples. The Indian called his dog, and he came to him, wagging his tail ! He sold his companion for ten balls and powder! One of our men approached the poor animal with an axe. I turned away my head to avoid the sight, but I heard the dull, sodden sound of the blow. The tried friend and faithful companion lay quivering in the agonies of death at its master's feet.

We are enjoying a most magnificent sight at our camp this evening. On the opposite side of the river, the Indians have fired the prairie, and the whole country for miles around is most brilliantly illuminated. Here am I sitting cross-legged on the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 251

ground, scribbling by the light of the vast conflagration with as much ease as if I had a ton of oil burning by my side ; but my eyes are every moment involuntarily vv'andering from the paper before me, to contemplate and admire the grandeur of the dis- tant scene. The very heavens themselves appear ignited, and the fragments of ashes and burning grass-blades, ascending and careering about through the glowing firmament, look like brilliant and glorious birds let loose to roam and revel amid this splendid scene. It is past midnight : every one in the camp is asleep, and I am this moment visited by half a dozen Indian fishermen, who arc peering over my shoulders, and soliciting a smoke, so that I shall have to stop, and fill my calamet.

btli. — The Indians are numerous along the river, and all engaged in fishing ; as we pass along, we frequently see them posted upon the rocks overhanging the water, surveying the boil- ing and roaring food below, for the passing salmon. In most instances, an Indian is seen entirely alone in these situations, often standing for half an hour perfectly still, his eyes rivetted upon the torrent, and his long fish spear poised above his head. The appearance of a solitary and naked savage thus perched like an eagle upon a cliff*, is sometimes, — when taken in connexion with the wild and rugged river scenery, — very picturesque. The spear is a pole about twelve feet in length, at the end of which a long wooden fork is made fast, and between the tines is fixed a barbed iron point. They also, in some situations, use a hand scoop-net, and stand upon scaffolds ingeniously constructed over the rapid water. Their winter store of dried fish is stowed away in little huts of mats and branches, closely interlaced, and also in caches under ground. It is often amusing to see the hungry ravens tearing and tugging at the strong twigs of the houses, in a vain attempt to reach the savory food within.

In the afternoon, we passed John Day's river, and encamped about sunset at the *' shoots." Here is a very large village of

352 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

Indians, (the same that I noticed in my journal, on the passage down,) and we are this evening surrounded by some scores of them.

6th. — We made the portage of the shoots this morning by carrying our boat and baggage across the land, and in half an hour, arrived at one of the upper dalles. Here Mr. M'Leod and myself debarked, and the men ran the dall. We walked on ahead to the most dangerous part, and stood upon the rocks about a hundred feet above to observe them. It really seemed exceedingly dangerous to see the boat dashing ahead like light- ning through the foaming and roaring waters, sometimes raised high above the enormous swells, and dashed down again as if she were seeking the bottom with her bows, and at others whirled around and nearly sucked under by the whirlpools constantly forming around her. But she stemmed every thing gallantly, under the direction of our experienced guides, and we soon em- barked again, and proceeded to the lower dalles. Here it is ut- terly impossible, in the present state of the water, to pass, so that the boat and baggage had to be carried across the whole portage. This occupied the remainder of the day, and we encamped in the evening at a short distance from the lower villages. The Indians told us with sorrowful faces of the recent death of their principal chief, Tilki. Well, thought I, the white man has lost a friend, and long Avill it be before we see his like again ! The poor fellow was unwell when I last saw him, with a complaint of his breast, which I suspected to be pulmonary. I gave him a few simple medicines, and told him I should soon see him again. Well do I remember the look of despondency with which he bade me farewell, and begged me to return soon and give him more medicine. About two weeks since he ruptured a blood ves- sel, and died in a short time.

We see great numbers of seals as we pass along. Immediately

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 253

below the Dalles they are particularly abundant, being attracted thither by the vast shoals of salmon which seek the turbulent water of the river. Wc occasionally shoot one of them as he raises his dog-like head above the surface, but we make no use of them ,• they are only valuable for the large quantity of oil which they yield.

We observe on the breasts and bellies of many of the Indians here, a number of large red marks, mostly of an oval form, some- times twenty or thirty grouped together. These are wounds made by their own hands, to display to their people the unwavering and stoical resolution with which they can endure pain. A large fold of the skin is taken up with the fingers, and sliced oif with a knife; the surrounding fibre then retreats, and a large and ghastly looking wound remains. Many that I saw to-day are yet scarcely cicatrized. There is a chief here who obtained the dig- nity which he now enjoys, solely by his numerous and hardy feats of this kind. He was originally a common man, and pos- sessed but one wife ; he has now six, and any of the tribe would think themselves honored by his alliance. He is a most gigantic fellow, about six feet four inches in height, and remarkably stout and powerful. The whole front of his person is covered with the red marks of which I have spoken, and he displays with con- siderable pride the two scars of a bullet, which entered the left breast, and passed out below the shoulder blade. This wound he also made with his own hand, by placing the muzzle of his gun against his breast, and pressing the trigger with his toe ; and by this last, and most daring act, he was raised to the chief command of all the Indians on the north side of the river. Now that Tilki is no more, he will probably be chosen chief of all the country from the cascades to Walla-walla, I asked him if he felt no fear of death from the wound in his chest, at the time it was inflicted. He said, no ; that his heart was strong, and that a bullet could never kill him. He told me that he was entirely

254 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

well in a week after this occurrence, but that for two days he vomited blood constantly. He is named by the Indians " Skoo- koom,^^ (the strong.)

About six weeks after, Mr. M'Leod, who again returned from a visit to Walla-walla, informed me that the strong chief was dead. A bullet, (or rather two of them,) killed him at last, in spite of his supposed invulnerability. He was shot by one of his people in a fit of jealousy. Skookoom had assisted Mr. M'Leod with his boats across the portage, and, being a chief, he of course received more for the service than a common man. This wretch, who was but a serf in the tribe, chose to be offended by it, and vented his rage by murdering his superior. He fired a ball from his own gun into his breast, which brought him to the ground, and then despatched him with a second, which he seized from another. So poor Skookoom has passed away, and such is the frail tenure upon which an Indian chief holds his authority and his life. The murderer will no doubt soon die by the hand of some friend or relative of the deceased ; he in his turn will be killed by another, and as usual, the bloody business will go on indefinitely, and may even tend to produce an open war between the rival parties.

I saw an old man here, apparently eighty years of age, who had given himself three enormous longitudinal gashes in his leg, to evince his grief for the loss of Tilki. From the sluggishness of the circulation in the body of the poor old creature, combined with a morbid habit, these wounds show no disposition to heal. I dressed his limb, and gave him a strict charge to have it kept clean, but knowing the universal carelessness of Indians in this respect, I fear my directions will not be attended to, and the con- sequence will probably be, that the old man will die miserably. I spoke to him of the folly of such inflictions, and took this opportunity of delivering a short lecture upon the same subject to the others assembled in his lodge.

ACROSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 255

At 11 o'clock next day we arrived at the cascades, where we made the long portage, and at nine in the evening encamped in an ash grove, six miles above Prairie de The.

On the 8th, reached Vancouver, where we found two vessels which had just arrived from England.

On the 24th, I embarked in a canoe with Indians for Fort George, and arrived in two days. Here I was kindly received by the superintendent, Mr. James Birnie, and promised every assistance in forwarding my views.

SOth. — I visited to-day some cemeteries in the neighborhood of the fort, and obtained the skulls of four Indians. Some of the bodies were simply deposited in canoes, raised five or six feet fi'om the ground, either in the forks of trees, or supported on stakes driven into the earth. In these instances it was not difficult to procure the skulls without disarranging the fabric ; but more frequently, they were nailed in boxes, or covered by a small canoe, which was turned bottom upwards, and placed in a larger one, and the whole covered by strips of bark, carefully arranged over them. It was then necessary to use the utmost caution in removing the covering, and also to be careful to leave every thing in the same state in which it was found. I thought several times to day, as I have often done in similar situations before : — Now suppose an Indian were to step in here, and see me groping among the bones of his fathers, and laying unhallowed hands upon the mouldering remains of his people, what should I say ? — I know well what the Indian would do. He would instantly shoot me, unless I took the most effectual measures to prevent it; but could I have time allowed me to temporize a little, I could easily dis- arm his hostility and ensure his silence, by the offer of a shirt or a blanket ; but the difficulty in most cases would be, that in a paroxysm of rage he would puta bullet through your head, and then good bye to temporizing. Luckily for my pursuits in this way, there are at present but few Indians here, and I do not therefore incur

256 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

much risk ; were it otherwise, there would be no little danger in these aggressions.

The corpses of the several different tribes which are buried here, are known by the difference in the structureof their canoes; and the sarcophagi of the chiefs from those of the common peo- ple, by the greater care which has been manifested in the arrantjement of the tomb.

October 14?A. — I walked to day around the beach to the foot of Young's bay, a distance of about ten miles, to see the remains of the house in which Lewis and Clark's party resided during the winter which they spent here. The logs of which it is com- posed, are still perfect, but the roof of bark has disappeared, and the whole vicinity is overgrown with thorn and wild currant bushes.

One of Mr. Birnie's children found, a few days since, a large silver medal, which had been brought here by Lewis and Clark, and had probably been presented to some chief, who lost it. On one side was a head, with the name " Th. Jefferson, Presi- dent of the United States, 1801." On the other, two hands interlocked, surmounted by a pipe and tomahawk ; and above the words, " Peace and Friendship."

Ibth. — This afternoon I embarked in a canoe with Chinamus, and went with him to his residence at Chinook. The chief wel- comed me to his house in a style which would do no discredit to a more civilized person. His two wives were ordered to make a bed for me, which they did by piling up about a dozen of their soft mats, and placing my blankets upon them, and a better bed I should never wish for. I was regaled, before I retired, with sturgeon, salmon, wappatoos, cranberries, and every thing else that the mansion afforded, and was requested to ask for any thing I wanted, and it should be furnished me. Whatever may be said derogatory to these people, I can testify that inhospitality is not among the number of their failings. I never went into the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 257

house of an Indian in my life, in any part of the country, with- out being most cordially received and welcomed.

The chief's house is built in the usual way, of logs and hewn boards, with a roof of cedar bark, and lined inside with mats. The floor is boarded and matted, and there is a depression in the ground, about a foot in depth and four feet in width, extending the whole length of the building in the middle, where the fires are made.

In this, as in almost every house, there is a large figure, or idol, rudely carved and painted upon a board, and occupying a conspicuous place. To this figure many of the Indians ascribe supernatural powers. Chinamus says that if he is in any kind of danger, and particulai-ly, if he is under the influence of an evil spell, he has only to place himself against the image, and the difficulty, of whatever kind, vanishes at once. This certainly savors of idolatry, although I believe they never address the uncouth figure as a deity. Like all other Indians, they acknow- ledge a great and invisible spirit, who governs and controls, and to whom all adoration is due.

Attached to this establishment, are three other houses, simi- larly constructed, inhabited by about thirty Indians, and at least that number of dogs. These, although very useful animals in their place, are here a great nuisance. They are of no possible service to the Indians, except to eat their provisions, and fill their houses with fleas, and a stranger approaching the lodges, is in constant danger of being throttled by a legion of fierce brutes, who are not half as hospitable as their masters.

I remained here several days, making excursions through the

neighborhood, and each time when I returned to the lodge, the

dogs growled and darted at me. I had no notion of being bitten,

so I gave the Indians warning, that unless the snarling beasts

were tied up when I came near, I would shoot every one of

them. The threat had the eflTect desired, and afler this, when-

33

258 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

ever I approached the lodges, there was a universal stir among the people, and the words, " iskam kahmooks, iskam kahmooks, kalakalah tie chahko," (take up your dogs, take up your dogs, the bird chief is coming,) echoed through the little village, and was followed by the yelping and snarling of dozens of wolf-dogs, and " curs of low degree," all of which were gathered in haste to the cover and protection of one of the houses.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 259

CHAPTER XVI.

JVorthern excursion — Large shoals of salmon — Indian mode of catching them — House near the beach — Flathead children — A storm on the bay — Loss of pro- vision— Pintail ducks — Simple mode of killing salmon — Return to Chinook — Indian garrulity — Return to Fort George — Preparations for a second trip to the Sandwich Islands — Detention within the cape — Anxiety to depart — The tropics, and tropic birds — Make the island of Maui — Arrival at Oahu — Accession to the society — A visit with Mr. Cotvie to the king — Illness of the princess, Uarieta JVahienaena — Abrupt exit of the king — A ride to Waitili — Cocoanut grove — J^'ative mode of climbing — Death of the princess — gHef of her people — barbarous ceremonies — Residenj^e in the valley of JVuano — A visit to the palace — Kahiles — Coffin of the princess, and in- scription — appurtenances — ceremony of carrying the body to the church — description of the pageant — dress of the king — conclusion of the ceremony.

October 17th. — I left Chinook this morning in a canoe with Chinamus, his two wives, and a slave, to procure shell-fish, which are said to be found in great abundance towards the north. We passed through a number of narrow slues which connect the numerous bays in this part of the country, and at noon debarked, left our canoe, took our blankets on our shoulders, and struck through the midst of a deep pine forest. After walking about two miles, we came to another branch, where we found a canoe which had been left there for us yesterday, and embarking in this, wo arrived in the evening at an Indian house, near the sea- side, where we spent the night.

In our passage through some of the narrow channels to-day, we saw vast shoals of salmon, which were leaping and curvetting

260 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEi'

about in every direction, and not unfrequently dashing their noses against our canoe, in their headlong course. We met here a number of Indians engaged in fishing. Their mode of taking the salmon is a very simple one. The whole of the tackle con- sists of a pole about twelve feet long, with a large iron hook attached to the end. This machine they keep constantly trailing in the water, and when the fish approaches the surface, by a quick and dexterous jerk, they fasten the iron into his side, and shake him off" into the canoe. They say they take so many fish that it is necessary for them to land about three times a day to deposit them.

The house in which we sleep to-night is not near so com- fortable as the one we have left. It stinks intolerably of salmon, which are hanging by scores to the roof, to dry in the smoke, and our bed being on the dead level, we shall probably suffer somewhat from fleas, not to mention another unmentionable insect which is apt to inhabit these dormitories in considerable profusion. There are here several young children; beautiful, flat-headed, broad-faced, little individuals. One of the little dears has taken something of a fancy to me, and is now hanging over me, and staring at my book with its great goggle eyes. It is somewhat strange, perhaps, but I have become so accustomed to this uni- versal deformity, that I now scarcely notice it. I have often been evilly disposed enough to wish, that if in the course of events one of these little beings should die, I could get possession of it. I should like to plump the small carcass into a keg of spirits, and send it home for the observation of the curious.

18th. — Last night the wind rose to a gale, and this morning it is blowing most furiously, making the usually calm water of these bays so turbulent as to be dangerous for our light craft. Notwithstanding this disadvantage, the Indians were in favor of starting for the sea, which we accordingly did at an early hour. Soon after we left, in crossing one of the bays, about three-quar-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 2G1

ters of a mile in width, the water suddenly became so agitated as at first nearly to upset our canoe. A perfect hurricane was blowing right ahead, cold as ice, and the water was dashing over us, and into our little bark, in a manner to frighten even the experienced chief who was acting as helmsman. In a few minutes we were sitting nearly up to our waistbands in water, although one of the women and myself were constantly bailing it out, employing for the purpose the only two hats belonging to the party, my own and that of the chief. We arrived at the shore at length in safety, although there was scarcely a dry thread on us, and built a tremendous fire with the drift-wood which we found on the beach. We then dried our clothes and blankets as well as we could, cooked some ducks that we killed yesterday, and made a hearty breakfast. My stock of bread, sugar, and tea, is completely spoiled by the salt water, so that until I return to Fort George, I must live simply ; but I think this no hardship : what has been done once can be done again.

In the afternoon the women collected for me a considerable number of shells, several species of Cardium, Citherea, Ostrea, &c., all edible, and the last very good, though small.

The common pintail duck, {Anas acuta,) is found here in vast flocks. The chief and myself killed twenty-six to-day, by a simultaneous discharge of our guns. They are exceedingly fat and most excellent eating ; indeed all the game of this lower country is far superior to that found in the neighborhood of Van- couver. The ducks feed upon a small submerged vegetable which grows in great abundance upon the reedy islands in this vicinity.

The next day we embarked early, to return to Chinook The wind was still blowing a gale, but by running along close to the shore of the stormy bay, we were enabled, by adding greatly to our distance, to escape the difiiculties against which we con-

262 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

tended yesterday, and regained the slues with tolerably dry gar- ments.

At about 10 o'clock, we arrived at the portage, and struck in- to the wood, shouldering our baggage as before. We soon came to a beautiful little stream of fresh water, where we halted, and prepared our breakfast. In this stream, (not exceeding nine feet at the widest part,) I was surprised to observe a great number of large salmon. Beautiful fellows, of from fifteen to twenty-five pounds weight, darting and playing about in the crystal water, and often exposing three-fourths of their bodies in making their way through the shallows. I had before no idea that these noble fish were ever found in such insignificant streams, but the In- dians say that they always come into the rivulets at this season, and return to the sea on the approach of winter. Our slave killed seven of these beautiful fish, while we made our hasty breakfast, his only weapon being a light cedar paddle.

We reached Chinook in the evening, and as we sat around the fires in the lodge, I was amused by the vivid description given to the attentive inhabitants by Chinamus and his wives, of the perils of our passage across the stormy bay. They all spoke at once, and described most minutely every circumstance that oc- curred, the auditors continually evincing their attention to the relation by a pithy and sympathizing hugh. They often appealed to me for the truth of what they were saying, and, as in duty bound, I gave an assenting nod, although at times I fancied they were yielding to a propensity, not uncommon among those of Christian lands, and which is known by the phrase, " drawing a long bow."

2\st, — The wind yesterday was so high, that I did not con- sider it safe to attempt the passage to Fort George. This morn- ing it was more calm, and we put off" in a large canoe at sunrise. When we had reached the middle of Young's bay, the wind again rose, and the water was dashing over us in fine style, so that we

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 263

were compelled to make for the shore and wait until it subsided. \Vc lay by about an hour, when, the water becoming more smooth, we again got under way, and arrived at Fort George about noon.

On the 5th of November, I returned to Vancouver, and imme- diately commenced packing my baggage, collection, &c., for a pas- sage to the Sandwich Islands, in the barque Columbia, which is now preparing to sail for England. This is a fine vessel, of three hundred tons, commanded by Captain Royal ; we shall have eight passen- gers in the cabin; Captain Darby, formerly of this vessel, R. Cowie, chief trader, and others.

On the 21st, we dropped down the river, and in two days anchored off the cape. We have but little pi'ospect of being able to cross the bar ; the sea breaks over the channel with a roar like thunder, and the surf dashes and frets against the rocky cape and drives its foam far up into the bay,

I long to see blue water again. I am fond of the sea ; it suits both my disposition and constitution ; and then the reflection, that now every foot I advance will carry me nearer to my beloved home, is in itself a most powerful inducement to urge me on. But much as I desire again to see home, much as I long to em- brace those to whom T am attached by the strongest ties, I have nevertheless felt something very like regret at leaving Vancouver and its kind and agreeable residents. I took leave of Doctor McLoughlin with feelings akin to those with which I should bid adieu to an affectionate parent ; and to his fervent, " God bless you, sir, and may you have a happy meeting with your friends," I could only reply by a look of the sincerest gratitude. Words are inadequate to express my deep sense of the obligations which I feel under to this truly generous and excellent man, and I fear I can only repay them by the sincerity with which I shall always cherish the recollection of his kindness, and the ardent prayers 1 shall breathe for his prosperity and happiness.

264 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

30th. — At daylight this morning, the wind being fair, and the bar more smooth, we weighed anchor and stood out. At about 9 o'clock we crossed the bar, and in a few minutes were hurry- ing along on the open sea before a six-knot breeze. We are now out, and so good bye to Cape Disappointment and the Columbia, and now for home, dear home asjain !

December I6th. — We are now in the delightful tropics, and more lovely weather I never saw — clear, warm and balmy, but not in the slightest degree debihtating — and a fine trade wind, be- fore which we are going eight and a half knots. This morning we saw a number of beautiful tropic birds flying around the vessel. This is one of the loveliest birds in the world. With a plumage of the most unsullied white, a form which is grace itself, and with long red tail-feathers streaming in the wind, it looks like a beautiful sylph sporting over the desolate ocean.

On the 22d, we made the island of Maui, distant about twenty- five miles. This evening is a most delightful one, as indeed are all the evenings in this latitude. The moon is shining most brilliantly, the atmosphere is deliciously warm, and we are sail- ing over a sea as smooth as a lake, with the island of Morokai about ten miles on our weather beam.

On the morning of the 23d, we made Oahu, and as we rounded Diamond Hill, Adams, the pilot, boarded us, and brought us close outside the harbor, where we anchored for want of wind. The captain, Mr. Cowie, and myself, went ashore in the pilot boat, and paid our respects to a number of old friends who were assembled on the wharf to meet and welcome us.

January \st, 1837. — Since we arrived, we have been so con- stantly engaged in visiting, receiving visits, and performing the usual penance imposed upon strangers visiting this island, that I have not had an opportunity of continuing my notes. I am now so much in arrears that I scarcely know where to begin, and many little circumstances, in themselves, perhaps, trifling enough,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 265

but which, at the time of their occurrence interested me, must of necessity have escaped my recollection.

On my arrival, Mr. George Pelly, agent of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, kindly invited me to his house, where I remained three days, and at the end of that time, Mr. Jones pro- cured for me a neat and very comfortable grass cottage, in which I live like a prince.

The society of the town has been considerably augmented and improved since my last visit, by the importation, from the United States, of some four or five young ladies, and they have routes and balls, and lu au parties in abundance.

Sd. — This morning, Mr. Cowie and myself called at the palace to see the king. At the door, we were met by one of his nume- rous attendants, who informed us that his majesty was not within, and offered his services to conduct us to his ojice, where he usually spends his mornings. Here we found him, and made our greetings, which he received and returned in a handsome manner. He gave us a glass of excellent Madeira, and a cigar, and we smoked and chatted with him very pleasantly for half an hour. He does not look so well as when I last saw him; is even more careless in his person, and he never was remarkable for neatness or particularity in his attire. Some allowance should, however, be made for him now, as he is suffering great distress of mind on account of the extreme illness of his favorite and only sister, the princess Harieta Nahienaena. This is the girl of whom mention is so often made in Mr. Stewart's journals. She is said to be very amiable and kind, and is universally beloved and re- spected by her people. While we were yet conversing with the king, a messenger came to say that she was worse, and desired to see him. He excused himself to us in a rather flurried and impa- tient manner, but which was nevertheless not devoid of grace, and we saw his majesty dart out of the door and run across the

street in the direction of his sister's house, without a coat or

34

266 iVAREATIVE OF A JOURNEY

braces to liis trousers, in a manner neither very dignified or kingly, but one which indicated most strongly the deep interest and attachment with which he regards the last scion of his noble house. Should Harieta die, the royal Hawaiian line will be broken for ever, the insignia of Sandwich Island rank will be buried in her tomb, and the children of her reigning brother will not inherit their father's rank. The princess is married to a chief named Leleahoku, commonly called " young Pitt." She has just given birth to a child, which died a few hours after, and she is now suffering from severe puerperal fever. Dr. Rooke, who attends her, feels very slight hopes of her recovery.

4:th. — This afternoon Mr. Josiah Thompson, Mr. Cowie, and myself, rode down to Waititi, and to Diamond Hill. The day has been a most delightful one, our horses were excellent, and we enjoyed the ride highly. In the upper part of the Waititi district, we passed through an extensive and beautiful cocoanut grove, probably a mile in length, by half a mile in width.

In the midst of this grove, we came to a small group of native houses, the inhabitants of which came running around our horses, the younger branches, in a state of perfect nudity, and capering about like so many little imps of darkness. I told them I should like to have a couple of nuts from one of the trees. I had hardly spoken before two of them ran to the nearest, and commenced mounting, one each side, and then, best fellow reached the top soonest. They climbed just like monkeys, placing their arms half way round the tree, and their feet flat against it, and then actually jumping up the perpendicular trunk. The exhibition was so exceedingly ludicrous, that I was indulging myself in a hearty laughing fit, when my cachination was suddenly inter- rupted by two nuts falling so near me that I felt in some danger of having my brains knocked out. I suspended my mirth, to shake my fist threateningly at the young urchins, who immediately slid

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 267

to the ground, and with the greatest good humor, held out their hands to receive a rial for their trouble.

The milk of the young cocoanut, when fresh from the tree, is peculiarly delicious and refreshing ; no idea can be formed of its excellence by those who have only tasted the stale fruit at home.

6th. — Yesterday the princess Harieta died. Scarcely was the circumstance known in the town, when it was announced to all by the most terrific and distressing crying and wailing amonrffet all ranks and classes of people. The natives, parti- cularly the women, walked the streets, weeping bitterly and loudly, and real' briny tears were falling from their eyes in plen- teous showers. This most lugubrious exhibition is common on the occasion of the death of any of the high chiefs ; but in the present instance there is evidently evinced much real feeling. In the afternoon, Mr. Deppe, (a Prussian gentleman,) and myself, walked to the king's palace to see the mourners vvho were col- lected there. We found the large enclosed space surrounding the house, filled with natives of both sexes, to the number of per- haps a thousand, all of whom were weeping in their loudest key. Young, active men and women, and the old and decrepid, who had just strength enough to crawl to the scene of action, chiefs and common people, public functionaries and beggars ; all were mingled in one common herd, bewailing in chorus their common loss.

I observed several women of the higher class standing in a group somewhat apart from the great concourse, who appeared affected in a peculiar manner. Tossing their arms over their heads, and behind their necks, beating their breasts violently and frantically, and raging with their voices during the whole time, as though they were suffering the most acute agony. In a few minutes, this violent paroxysm would subside, and then the poor creatures would fall to the ground exhausted and breathless.

268 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

After about a minute spent in total inactivity, and apparent stupor, the voice and physical powers were suddenly recovered, and the consequence was, a long succession of the most horrid shrieks, the mourners rolling over and over upon the ground, biting the earth, and sobbing loud enough to be heard above the dreadful din of the multitude. Soon after this, commenced the most disgusting and barbarous part of the whole exhibition. A number of men and women, and even some little boys and girls, laid themselves upon their backs on the ground, and a man ap- proached them with a small ivory, or hard wood wedge, and a large oval stone in his hand. He commenced his operations upon the first of the victims, who was a fine looking young man, by placing the wedge between two of his front teeth, and striking it a hard and quick blow with the stone. This loosened it effec- tually ; then by inserting the wedge upon the opposite side, and giving another similar blow, out flew the tooth in an instant. In this manner, every person who was lying there, lost, some two, others three of his front teeth, and during the whole time the cry- ing was not suspended for a moment.

The question naturally arises ? — Why have not the mission- aries, who have such unbounded influence over this people, taken measures to abolish this most barbarous and shocking custom ? They have, as I well know, used great exertions to do it away, and so far as the higher ranks of society are concerned, they have probably succeeded ; but there are yet, and will for some time be, hundreds among the common people upon whom they can exert little or no influence. Reason and argument are thrown away upon such, as nothing will convince them of the inutility and absurdity of so old and long established a custom.

How often, how very often, do I thank Providence in my heart, that I was born in a Christian and enlightened country, free from the shackles of barbarism, and under the influence of benign and wholesome laws. It is a blessing which those only,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 269

who have witnessed a diifereut state of things in other lands can properly appreciate.

15th. — Several days ago Mr. Deppe and myself visited Nuano valley, where we hired a native house, in which we are now living. Our object has been to procure birds, plants &c. and wc have so far been very successful. I have already prepared about eighty birds which I procured here. We have a very good and comfortable cottage, and a more delightful country residence I certainly never saw. The valley here is narrow, only about a quarter of a mile across, and the mountains on either side, at least two thousand feet in height, are clothed with the most beautiful verdure.- Within gunshot of our dwelling, there is a cascade of delightfully cold mountain water, which falls perhaps thirty feet ; the basin below gives us an excellent bath, and we can take a shower when we wish it, by standing under one of the jets. As our cottage is situated upon elevated ground, we have a fine view of the town of Honoruru, five miles from us, as well as the lovely harbor and the shipping. I am so pleased with this resi- dence, on every account, that I shall be loath to leave it ; I have escaped from the bustle, and confusion, and dissipation of the town, from the, at times, almost insufferable heat which prevails there, and am living exactly as I wish, in a retired and quiet manner. We never suffer from heat here, and although this is the rainy season, we have had, so far, fine, clear weather.

27th. — I went, this morning, again to the palace of the king, accompanied by Captain Charlton, the British Consul, to view the remains of the princess. We saw there the widowed hus- band, Governor Boki, Kanaina, and several other chiefs. Their grief appears to have almost entirely evaporated. The hand of time has had the effect, not only to soften down the pangs of re- cent sorrow, but even to render those who were but a few days ago under its severest influence, alive to all the joyousness and sprightly emotions attendant upon a reaction.

270 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

The leaden coffin is now enclosed in one of wood, covered with rich crimson velvet, and elaborately studded, and ornament- ed with brass. On the top is a brass plate, with this inscrip- tion :

" Harieta

Nahienaena,

22 Makahiki, i make

i detemaba, he 30

la, i ka makahiki,

o ko haku,

1836."*

The coffin rests upon a tressel in the centre of the large house, and underneath it is a native mat of the finest and most delicate workmanship. This mat is considered a great curiosity. It was made in the time of Tamehameha, and was presented to his queen. The grass of which it is composed is about the thickness of a horse hair, and the fabric is soft and pliant as a silken cloth. The coffin is covered with a large cloak, made of the splendid yellow feathers of one of the native birds, and is surrounded by about a dozen of the magnificent insignia of royalty, called kahiles. These kahiles are made of the feathers of different

* Harieta Nahienaena, aged 22 years, died on tlie 30th of December, in the year of our Lord, 1836. This appears like a contradiction. It is stated on tlie coffin plate, that the prin- cess died on the 30th of December, when it did not actually occur until the 5th of January. This is accounted for, by the peculiar, and in some measure, reasonable doctrine of tlie Sandwich Islanders, that a person experiences two deaths ; one of the mind, and another of the body. Now the mi7id of the princess died, i. e., be- came deranged, on the 30lh of December, although Iier body did not die until the 5lh of Januarv.

ACROSS THE ROCKV^ MOUNTAINS, ETC. 271

birds, and some of the tail plumes of the common dung-hill cock, fastened together with light pieces of bamboo, and arranged cylin- drically on a long pole. Many of the kahiles are as large in cir- cumference as a hogshead, and some few not thicker than a man's leg. Including the handle, they are, most of them, from eighteen to twenty-five feet in length. The handle is composed of alternate rings of tortoise shell and fine ivory, so accurately fitted, and beautifully polished, as to appear at a short distance like one piece. I observed that one of these handles was tipped with the bone of a human leg, and upon inquiry learned that it had be- longed to one of the ancient kings. This was also finely polished, and looked like ivory, but the joint by which it was terminated had a rather grim and ghastly appearance. One of these kahiles is of so ancient a date, that the natives have no tradition respect- ing its fabrication. It is indeed a most antiquated looking affair, composed of a wiry sort of white feather from a bird which is now either entirely extinct, or which had been brought from a distance.

All these splendid and costly ornaments will be buried in the tomb of Harieta, where they will always remain.

February 3(Z. — This was the day appointed for the ceremony of carrying the body of the princess to the church. After the rite was finished, it was brought back to the palace, where it will remain for a considerable time, previous to its removal to Maui. Yesterday the king sent invitations, through the consuls, to all the foreign residents and visiters, and at one o'clock to-day, all were assembled at the palace. The coffin still remained in the situation in which I last saw it, surrounded by the kahiles. The house was well filled by foreigners and natives of rank, and the large enclosure without was crowded. The common men were variously attired, but the great concourse of women were clothed in black from head to foot. After we had waited about an hour,

272 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the king, and Leleahoku, (the husband of the deceased,) entered. The foreigners all uncovered their heads, and his majesty ac- knowledged the civility by removing his own hat, and making a low and very graceful bow. He was most magnificently attired in a fine blue regimental coat, richly embroidered with gold and silver lace, and two splendid gold epaulets on the shoulders. His pantaloons were of very delicate white cassimere, embroidered down the seams with gold lace, and from a crimson sash de- pended a beautiful, and highly ornamented dress sword, the scabbard of which was of fine gold. His chapeau bras was in keeping with the rest of his attire, being of black beaver, orna- mented with broad bands of frold filligree.*

The tout ensemble was in the highest degree magnificent and kingly, and he wore the dress with most becoming dignity. His age is about two and twenty, his stature five feet ten, and the proportions of his person are most decidedly and strictly symme- trical. Like most of the chiefs, he appears to be inclining to obesity, and will probably in a kw years lose much of the beauty of his form. He is now, however, one of the most graceful and dignified men in his appearance that I ever beheld. Young Pitt has a good, and rather handsome face, but the graces of his person bear no comparison with those of his brother-in-law. His attire was also rich, with uniform coat, epaulets, chapeau bras and sword, and all the high chiefs were nearly similarly habited.

The procession was headed by a band of very good music,

* This most splendid and appropriate uniform was presented some years ago to the king, by subscription of the foreign residents at Oahu. It was made in Lima and cost eight hundred dollars ! The presentation is said to have been rather im- posing. It took place at the palace, and most of the high chiefs were present. Mr. Jones made a speech on the occasion, which was promptly replied to by his majesty.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 273

most of the performers being negroes. Next followed the missionaries in double file ; then the hearse, which was a small plain cart, drawn by about twenty natives. Next came the king, who walked immediately behind the coffin ; he was followed closely by young Pitt, also alone, and then came the high chiefs, men and women, to the number of about thirty, in double file. On either side of the hearse, the magnificent kahiles were borne aloft by a number of the sub-chiefs, and favorites of the royal household, and so enormously heavy were some of these, par- ticularly when the wind struck them, that each of them required the utmost exertion of four or five strong men to keep it in a vertical position. After the chiefs, followed all the respectable foreigners, two and two, headed by the consuls, to the number of perhaps a hundred ; then a long line of females, all habited in deep black, and the rear was brought up by a motley throng of all denominations, and in every variety of costume. From the head of the procession, nearly to the foot on each side, walked the king's guards in Indian file. They were dressed in a com- plete suit of white, with red and blue cuffs to their jackets, and every man carried his musket reversed. When the line was formed, the band played a solemn dead march, and the proces- sion moved toward the native church at the lower end of the town. During the whole distance, about a mile, the ground had been strown with fresh grass, forming a pleasant carpet, and prevent- ing, in a great measure, the rising of clouds of dust, which would otherwise have been very uncomfortable.

The whole pageant was " got up" with the greatest splendor and was conducted with singular order and regularity, nothing occurring which in the slightest degree tended to produce con- fusion.

When the procession arrived at the church, the music ceased ; a large bell which hangs in the area, was tolled every ten se- conds, and the whole company entered the house and sought

35

274 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

their seats. The bier Was placed on the ground opposite the pulpit, the king and the other chiefs sitting by the side of it, and the bearers kneeling beneath the cai*t. The service was opened by an address in the native language by the Rev. Mr. Bingham ; this was followed by hymns, short addresses, and prayers alter- nately, by several other missionaries who were present. At the conclusion of the service, which occupied about one and a half hours, the procession again formed, and returned in the same order to the palace, when, after a short prayer, in the native lan- guage, from Mr. Bingham, the cavalcade dispersed.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 275

CHAPTER XVII,

Embarkation for a tour of the islands — Lahaina — Forts — Lahainaluna — JJfts- sionaries of Maui — Hiffh school — Progress of the pupils — Karakakua bay — Kairua — Cook's rock — reverence of the natives for his memory — Cook's monument — Birds — Kawaihae — Colossal mountains — jyirs. Young — Heiau, or native temple — Human sacrifices — Moral — Heathenish rites — A cargo of cat- tle— Unsavory practice of the native ivomen — Departure from Oahu — A sail by moonlig-ht — Dean's island — Jl " complaisant" — Arrival at Tahiti — JVative pilot — Papeete bay — Appearance of the shore — Visit from foreigners — A ram- ble on shore — Orange groves, &c A young native songster — Visit to the

queen— Mr. Pritchard, the missionary — JVative service — The chapel — A bedridden Tahaitian — Jungle fowls — Leave the harbor — Dangerous naviga- tion— A narrow escape — A shipxvreck.

9th. — Mr. French kindly offered me a assage in his brig Diana, Captain Hinckley, to make a short tour of the islands. The object of the trip is to carry lumber to several of the ports, to trade with the natives, and to bring to Oahu a cargo of live stock, cattle, &c. The time allowed will be so short that I shall probably not be able to do much in my vocation, but I shall at least be furnished with an opportunity of visiting several islands, and as we have pleasant companions as passengers, besides our agreeable and accomplished captain, we anticipate a delightful trip.

We stood out of the harbor in the afternoon, and the next evening made Maui, but as we came under the land it fell calm, with a heavy ground swell, and we were tossing about most un- comfortably the whole night.

276 NARRATIVE or A JOURNEY

lAth. — Yesterday we made Maui again, after having been cruising around the islands at the mercy of contrary winds, since Friday. Several of our passengers have been constantly sea- sick, and our anticijmted pleasure has been thus very much les- sened.

When I rose this morning, we were off the pretty village of Lahaina, and in about two hours after, we dropped our anchor within half a mile.

While the ship's people were engaged in discharging cargo, Mr. Paty, (one of our passsengers,) and myself went ashore to see the town. The village is one of the prettiest I have seen : many of the houses are built of stone, handsomely whitewashed, and, as at Honoruru, a very picturesque looking fort frowns upon you as you approach the anchorage. These forts, although they add greatly to the appearance of the harbors in which they are situated, yet appear to me to be better calculated for show than, service, as in case of an attack from the sea, they could not act efficiently, not being provided with bastions; and in addition to this, they are built l such a loose and unsubstantial manner, that the very means of defence would be more fatal than even the fire of an enemy. A cannonading from the fort, if long persisted in, would almost certainly level the walls with the ground.

The houses, composing the village of Lahaina, are, many of them, so obscured bycocoanut andkou trees, (Cordiasebestena,) that you cannot see the whole of the town from any single point of view, even from the offing. On a high hill, two miles back of the town, stands another village, called Lakainaluna, (or upper Lahaina,) composed entirely of white stone houses. It is here that the mission- aries chiefly reside. The high school here is a large building of stone, thatched with grass, and stands on an elevated piece of ground, so as to be distinctly seen some miles out at sea. I called, with Mr. Paty, upon Mr. Andrews, to whom I had a letter

"V

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 277

of introduction from the Rev. Mr. Dieill, and here I met several other missionaries, Mr. Baldwin, Mr. Rogers, and Mr. Dibble. These gentlemen are all more or less concerned in the manage- ment of the high school, but Mr. Andrews is the principal. It was commenced by him in the year 1831. For some time it was held under a simple ranai, or shed, made of grass, and since then it has gone on increasing and improving with a ra- pidity almost unprecedented. It now consists of about seventy- ►five scholars, chiefly boys, and the improvement of many of them is surprising. From all that I can learn, (for the school is at present closed, and I have not had an opportunity of seeing the pupils,) the advancement manifested by them is fully equal, in every respect, to those of similar seminaries in our own country. Attached to this branch of the mission is a printing office, in which the operatives are natives, under the superintendence of Mr. Rogers. Mr. Andrews showed us impressions of maps of different parts of the world, which have been engraved on copper by the pupils. These efforts are exceedingly creditable, not only to the boys themselves, but to their tutors, showing the untiring perseverance with which they must have labored, especially as none of them had ever before seen the operation performed. Mr. Andrews is a very indefatigable and most superior man, as his works abundantly testify. Contending, as he constantly is, against indisposition, he attends most diligently and faithfully to the peculiarly arduous duties of the school, and during the very few hours of relaxation which each day affords, he is busily en- gaged in writing for the benefit of the mission, and its objects. He is the author of " A Vocabulary of the Hawaiian Language," published at these islands some years since, and he is now em- ployed on a new and much enlarged edition of the same work.

On the morning of the 17th, we made the island of Hawaii, and, approaching with a free wind, soon let go our anchor in the bay of Karakakiia. The land here is composed almost entirely of

278 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

rough and irregular masses of lava, but towards the summit of the hills, as in Oahu, vegetation is abundant. The shore, for miles, in both directions, is sprinkled with the little sylvan look- ing hamlets of this country, and they are sometimes so thickly grouped together, as to form the most picturesque and beautiful villages. On the hill fronting the bay is one of these, at which the missionary, Mr. Forbes, resides, and about eighteen miles from this, there is a considerable town called Kairua, the resi- dence of the chief, John Adams, governor of Hawaii. In the afternoon Mr. Paty and myself went on shore, chiefly for the purpose of seeing the spot on which Captain Cook was killed, in the year 1779.

When we made this inquiry after we landed, a number of na- tives ran to the beach, and pointed out to us the exact spot where the gallant mariner received his death blow. I need not attempt to describe, for my sisters can in a measure understand the emo- tion with which I viewed the rock on which this brave and excel- lent man offered up his life in the service of his country. I had read the voyages of Cook, with gi-eat interest, when I was a child; I had pondered over his dangers, his magnificent dis- coveries, the intense excitement of his life, and his premature and violent death, but if at that time any one had told me that I should ever visit the scene of his discoveries, and stand upon the identical rock which was pressed by his bleeding bosom, I should have smiled at it as too chimerical for belief; here I am, however, although at times I can scarcely reahze the possibility of it.

The rock is somewhat isolated, and at high tide the water breaks over its summit. It is said to be at present not one- fourth its original size, as almost every visiter, for a number of years, has been in the habit of carrying away a fragment of it as a relic. A French man-of-war, which was lately here, is said to have taken off about a ton of it ; and some Spaniards,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 279

who visited the island several years since, not only took speci- mens of the rock, but the whole ship's company knelt upon it, and offered up a prayer for the repose of the hero's soul.

There is perhaps no one unfortunate circumstance connected with foreigners, that has ever occurred here, which the natives of these islands so deeply regret, as the death of Cook. They all speak of it as a lamentable event, and some of the elder of them are said even to shed tears when the subject is mentioned. They have canonized him, and he is universally known by the title of" Olono,^^ a particular deity.

18th. — This morning I met Mr. Forbes, the missionary of this station, at the lower village, and after delivering to hirn a letter from Mr. Dieill, accompanied him to his house on the hill, a dis- tance of three miles. At about one mile from the shore on the hill is a monument, erected in 1825 by Lord Byron, Captain of his Britannic majesty's frigate " Blond," to the memory of Captain Cook. It consists of a simple wall of lava about five feet high, embracing a square of twenty feet, in the centre of which is a cedar post, twelve feet in height, and near the top a copper plate, with this inscription :

" In memory

of

Captain James Cook, R. N.,

Who discovered these Islands,

in the year of our Lord,

1778.

This humble monument is erected

by his fellow countrymen,

in the year of our Lord,

1825."

This post is completely covered with the initials of persons who have from time to time visited the spot, chiefly the masters.

/

280 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

officers, and crews of vessels, and among them I noticed the well known name of " Coffin, Nantucket.''^

20th. — Mr. Paty and myself spent the day in traversing the extensive forests of this island, in search of birds, but with very little success. The walking was extremely difficult, and some- times dangerous, in consequence of a thick undergrowth of bushes, intermixed with large masses of rough, porous lava. There is here a small species of crow, said to be numerous at times, but we did not see any, as, in consequence of a long drought, they, as well as most other birds, have retired back into the mountains to procure water. We returned to Mr. Forbes' house late in the afternoon, and found him preparing his baggage, &c., for a passage to Oahu in our brig. He takes his wife and two children with him.

22d. — We sailed out of Karakakua last evening with the periodical- land breeze, and this morning, at 9 o'clock, anchored offKawaihae. This is a barren and most unattractive looking place, a rambling sort of village, containing about fifty houses, but no vegetation except a iew scattered cocoanuts, and an occasional kou, and tutui tree. The soil is composed entirely of volcanic earth, or the pulverization of lava and basalt. I observed none of the handsome taro patches here that form such a relief to the eye when scanning this rugged country in other places. From our anchorage we have a view of several of the colossal mountains and peaks of this island, among which the majestic point of Mauna kea stands pre-eminent. I have not yet seen Mauna roa, except from a considerable distance at sea, and I suppose that now the gratification of a nearer view will not be afforded me. I cannot too much regret that I have had no opportunity of visit- ing this celebrated and stupendous volcano.

23d. — Yesterday morning I went on shore with Captain Hinckley and others, and called upon Mrs. Young, widow of the late John Young, the oldest foreign resident of the Sandwich

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 281

Islands. He came hither in tl^ year 1789, remaining until his death, which took place about a year ago, in his 90th year. Mrs. Young is a sister of old king Tamehameha, and is now probably sixty years of age, a very pleasant and lady-like old woman.

In the afternoon we visited a large heiau, or temple, in the neighborhood. This temple, (which of course has not been used as such since the abolition of idolatry) was built in the early part of the reign of Tamehameha ; in it were deposited the gods of wood and stone, which the natives worshipped, and at regular periods, a human victim was offered as a sacrifice to their ima- ginary deity. The victims consisted chiefly of convicts, or those who had been guilty of some misdemeanor, but whenever the stock commonly kept on hand, failed, (which not unfrequently happened,) the authorities rarely scrupled to supply the deficiency, either by forcing the common people to commit crimes worthy of the punishment, or by entrapping them into a confession of some petty transgression.

It was also a common practice to sacrifice a victim on the death of any of the higher chiefs, to propitiate the favor of the idol toward the departed. At such times they were even less scrupulous than ordinary ; a victim must be procured for the re- pose of the troubled spirit, and it was therefore frequently made an excuse for the most open and cruel injustice.

The heiau is built of stones laid together, enclosing a square

of about two hundred feet. The walls are thirty feet high, and

about sixteen feet thick at the base, from which they gradually

taper to the top, where they are about four feet across. In the

centre, is a platform of smooth stones, carefully laid together,

but without any previous preparation, raised to within ten feet of

the top o,f the wall. It was on this platform that the victims

were sacrificed, the gods standing around outside in niches made

for their accommodation.

36

282 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

There is, near the heiau, another very similar, though smaller edifice of stone, called a moral. This was used for nearly similar purposes, and, in addition, it was the place to which the bodies of the dead chiefs were carried, previous to in- terment. After lying here in state for a longer or shorter time, according to the grade of rank held by the deceased, the flesh was stripped from the bones, and buried in the sea ; the bones were then taken and deposited in caves, or subterranean vaults, which concluded the ceremony. On Oahu, near Diamond hill, in the district of Waititi, are several of these morals, but they have gone to decay, and are not so perfect as the above men- tioned one.

2Ath. — The ship's people have been engaged the whole day in taking cattle on board, and we are now deep in the water, having upwards of one hundred and twenty head stowed under the hatches. These cattle are procured wild, on the island, by Spaniards, who live here for the purpose. They take them by means of lassos, and display great dexterity in the business. This ope- ration has been so often described, that I need not repeat it here, suffice it to say, that all the bullocks on board have been taken expressly for us, by three Spaniards, since our arrival here on Wednesday.

25th. — We were under way at daylight this morning, bound for Oahu. We passed, in the course of the day, the islands of Maui, Kaan'dlawi, Ranai, Morokai, and Morokini. The wea- ther was rough, and the sea high, and as usual, most of our pas- sengers have been suffering from sea sickness, and at times the scene on the quarter deck is quite distressing.

Our vessel is now literally stowed full, so much so as to be somewhat unpleasant for passengers. All forward of the main- mast, both above and below, is crowded with cattle; the 'tween- decks are stowed with hides, and the quarter deck with passen- gers of all colors, from the fair skinned European, to the deep

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 283

copper-colored native, not omitting the intermediate grade of half- castes. Men, women, and children, of various families, are all huddled together in a mass, lolling about, talking and smoking during the day, and sleeping and grunting like swine at night. The effluvia arising from the mass of native bodies, during a still, warm evening, is not comparable to otto of roses, and I have often been compelled to forego the pleasure of a nocturnal lounge on deck, and dive to the cabin for purer air. This effluvia is owing to a common habit among these people, and particularly of the women, of anointing the hair and body with cocoanut oil. The oil, in a recent state, possesses an aromatic, and rather agreeable odor, but when allowed to become rancid, it is most insufferably rank and disgusting. When in this rancid state, its cosmetic properties are supposed to be improved, and it is then applied in large quantities to the whole person. Were it not for this disagreeable and unsavory practice, the women here would be well calculated to please the taste of a stranger, as many of them are truly handsome, and remarkably graceful in their deportment. I believe that most of those who are married to the foreigners have given up this disgusting practice.

. On the 27th we anchored in the harbor of Oahu, and from this time, until the 16th of March, I was busily engaged in pack- ing my multifarious collections, making calls upon my friends, &c., preparatory to embarking for Valparaiso, via Tahiti, in the ship Europa, Captain Shaw, of this port.

I have now been here nearly three months ; much longer than I expected to have been detained. My time has been employed chiefly in pursuing my scientific avocations, collecting specimens, &c., in which I have been as successful as I anticipated. In this pursuit I have received much and very steady assistance from many of the resident foreigners, and, as a parting word, I wish them to accept my most unfeigned thanks, both for this and for the uniform hospitality and kindness with which they have treated

284 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

me. To J. C. Jones, Esq., — the American consul, — my acknow- ledgements are particularly due. I shall always remember, with gratitude, the many favors he has conferred upon me.

18th. — We cleared Oahu yesterday, and this evening, are sailing along delightfully before an eight knot breeze. I think that of all enjoyments I have ever experienced since I became a dweller in distant lands, there is none that has ever excited in me such a thrill of delight and pleasure, as an evening sail upon a moon-lit sea. I can hang for hours over the gunwale, as the ship ploughs the deep blue waters ; I gaze upon the lovely moon, and turn my face towards my father-land, and then, oh then, do I fancy I can see my quiet, peaceful home, and commune with the loved objects there ! All, all rise before me with a distinctness at times almost startling. I see my excellent and affectionate father, my beloved and tender mother, my dear sisters, brothers, all whom I love, and I think I can see them beckoning to the wanderer, and entreating him to turn his footsteps homeward. These images have risen before me, this evening, with uncom- mon vividness. It is now eight bells in the middle watch ; the officer is pacing the quarter deck, muffled in his large pea jacket, the helmsman stands by the wheel, the drowsy v/atch are lolling on the forecastle, and all else are asleep. But I can- not sleep, nor would I if I could, on such a glorious night as this.

April 1st. — Nothing important has occurred to vary the mo- notony of a sea voyage. We have generally been favored wth good breezes, though the sea has been mostly rough. On Thursday last, we crossed the line, and our latitude is now 3° 52' south.

8th. — Yesterday morning at 10 o'clock, " land, ho/" was sung out by a man at the mast head, and we ascertained it to be Dean's island, distant about fifteen miles. We had a fine seven knot breeze, and we rapidly approached, and soon passed it

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 285

within five miles. This is a very long, low island, profusely co- vered with vegetation, very undulating, and with a fine sand beach surrounding it, upon which the surf breaks furiously. It is said to be sparsely inhabited by people of a very wild and unsocial nature. Ships rarely, if ever, touch here, as the island produces nothing to tempt the cupidity of our mariners. In the evening we had a heavy squall, with rain, and incessant and very vivid lightning. We shortened sail immediately, and lay to, under a double reefed maintopsail and reefed foresail, for about an hour, when the gale subsided, and a dead calm of about the same duration succeeded. During the storm, we observed a little speck of brilliant light, like a star, resting upon the main trucTc or top of the mainmast. In a few minutes after, a similar light appeared upon the summits of both the other masts, and continued visible for about an hour. This is what sailors call a " complaisant" and is of course occasioned by an excess of elec- tricity in the atmosphere.

In the afternoon we made Tahiti, (or Otaheite,) and the next morning approached to within two miles of it, brought our vessel to, in a fine breeze, and hoisted our signal for a pilot. After waiting about two hours, a native, who spoke English well, board- ed us in a whale boat, and announced himself as authorized pilot of the port. The charge of the vessel was of course given into his hands, and in another hour we were riding at anchor in a beautiful, and very safe harbor. Tahiti, like most islands in these seas, is nearly surrounded by a coral reef, a narrow passage only being found for entrance, but the native pilot appears to be skilful, and I am told that no accident has ever happened here.

The outline of this island is exceedingly uneven and rugged, being formed of high hills and valleys alternately, but the whole of the land is profusely covered with vegetation. The bay in which we are anchored, (Papeete,) is one of the most beautiful I have seen ; the water in the harbor is at all times so smooth and

286 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

placid that no motion whatever can be felt on board a vessel rid- ing at anchor, and the shore, fringed with cocoanut, bread-fruit, and banana trees, with the neat white-washed cottages sprinkled amongst them, forms a view at once striking and lovely. There are about eight whale ships now in the port, and several of the masters of these, as well as some resident gentlemen from the shore, visited us shortly after we came to anchor. Among the latter were the missionary of this station, the Rev. Mr. Pritchard, Doctor Vaughan, Mr. William Henry and others. Soon after, Mr. Skinner, the supercargo, and myself, went on shore, and called upon Mr. Moerenhaut, the U. S, consul, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Jones of Oahu. He received us kindly, and we spent an hour with him very plea- santly. We partook of a good dinner at the house of Mr. Henry, after which Mr. Skinner and several other gentlemen with myself, took a stroll back of the village. If I was pleased with the appearance of the harbor from the anchorage, how much more;ivas I dalighted with the opportunity of rambling in the interior. Soon after we left the house, we entered upon an excellent turnpike road made by na- tives, chiefly convicts, and extending nearly the whole circuit of the island. This, as is almost every part of this lovely isle, is a complete orchard of the most delicious of the tropical fruits ; vast groves of oranges, lemons, guavas, &c. &c., growing wild, and in the most prodigal profusion, patches of pine apples, inter- minable forests of bananas, cocoanuts, and VVs,* and all with- out an owner. Well may it be said, this is a highly favored, and most fruitful land. The natives do not require to cultivate the earth ; it teems with every luxury that their un?ophisticated palates crave. For a meal, they have but to enter the forest, and gather a mess of bread-fruit, bananas, and guavas, and kill a pig from the large droves which are constantly roaming the • Tliis is the Spondias diilcits of botanists ; a large and wide spreading forest tree, bearing a most delicious fruit, somewhat like a pear, and about the same size.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 287

country, in a half wild state, and fattening to obesity on the ripe and luscious fruit which every where strews the ground.

lOth. — I strolled, during the whole of this day, through the woods, and procured a number of very pretty birds, all new to me. In this expedition I was accompanied by a stout boy, a Sandwich Islander, whom I have engaged as my servant while I remain. This is a convenience, inasmuch as I am not acquainted with the language of the Tahitians, but am sufficiently familiar with that of the Sandwich Islanders, to ask for whatever I want, and understand ordinary conversation. In my ramble through the forest to-day, I was surprised to hear a stave of the old familiar song, Jim Crorc, sung by a little puling voice, but with singular fidelity of tone and time, and after a short search, I perceived a little naked native girl, of not more than four years of age, washing her only calico garment in a creek which flowed by, and amusing herself at her work, by singing " wheel about, and turn about, and do just so." The child attempted to escape when she found she was observed, but I caught her, and by dint of persuasion, and the offer of a rial, induced her to sing several verses to me.

12th. — I went, with the consul, to the palace of the queen, Pomare Wahine, (or the woman Pomare.) The house did not differ, except in being somewhat larger, from the ordinary native habitations, and her majesty could not have been distinguished, by her appearance, from the poorest woman in her dominions. Her complexion is somewhat faii'er than that of the generality, and the expression of her countenance is pleasing. She was dressed, like the maids of honor who surrounded her, in a loose wrapper of calico, but without any kind of ornament about her person, and her feet were bare. I was informed ' that she dis- liked all show and ostentation, and that she never donned her queenly garments except upon occasions of state or high ceremo- nial. Her husband is a young man of prepossessing appearance,

288 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

who has been selected from the common ranks for his good looks. He is not burthened with the cares of sovereignty, and if his wife were to die, would return immediately to the humble walk from which he has been elevated. He is universally known by the title of the " queen's husband."

15^/». — This day, although with us, in our ship account, Satur- day the 15th, is Sunday the 16th, at Tahiti. This is accounted for by the fact of the early missionaries having made the passage around the Cape of Good Hope instead of Cape Horn, and making no allowance for easting, consequently gained nearly a day in their reckoning. The mistake has never since been corrected, and at the present time it would perhaps not be advisable to do so.

I attended, with most of the gentlemen of the place, the native church, at 9 o'clock in the morning. Mr. Pritchard performed the service, and I was pleased, not only with the order and re- gularity of the exercises, but with the strict and decorous deport- ment of the audience. The hymns were sung with much taste and skill, and many of the voices, particularly of the females, were sweet, and well trained.

The chapel is a very neat and pretty piece of workmanship, somewhat in the style of those at the Sandwich Islands, but more tasteful and lighter. The roof, instead of a thatch of grass, is neatly covered with the large leaves of a species of Pandanus, hand- somely and ingeniously worked on light reeds, and the beams are wrapped, for about one-fourth of their length, with alternate strips of fine sinnit and mats of different colors, and adds very much to the general appearance of the building.

20th. — I observed to-day near the beach, in front of the village, an old, dilapidated cottage, the trellised sides of which had fallen to pieces from decay, and I was surprised to hear issue from it a few notes of a low and plaintive song. Upon entering, I saw a poor old man lying on a board elevated upon posts about four

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 289

feet from the ground, with no bedding except a small mat, and his long white hair drooping over a square wooden block, which was his only pillow. Attached to the rude ceiling, were several baskets of fruit, oranges, bananas, &c., suspended by cords over the old creature's head, and within reach of his hand. I dis- persed the swine which were wallowing beneath him on the floor, and spoke to the old man. But he heeded me not. His dull eyes seemed fixed upon the fruit baskets over his head, and soon the low and melancholy song was renewed, in a voice palsied and broken from extreme age.

It is an immemorial custom of the Tahitians, so to dispose of their old and infirm people. When a man becomes too feeble, from age, to walk, and provide for his own necessities, he is laid out in this way, and furnished daily with a fresh supply of fruit, and a calabash of water, to sustain his flickering life, until the hand of death relieves his relatives from further care.

May 2d. — We are now quite ready for sea, and are only waiting a breeze to go out. I am as anxious as the rest to re- embark, for I have completed my ornithological collections, having prepared about a hundred and ten birds, most of them, I think, peculiar to this island.

The common dunghill fowl is found wild in the forests here. Some of the residents think that it is a jungle fowl, peculiar to the country, but, upon examination, I have not been able to per- ceive any material difference between it and the domesticated bird, and therefore incline to the belief that it is the common species returned to its original habits. In my excursions, I have killed about a dozen of them. Their plumage is generally more rich and brilliant than that of the domesticated bird, and there is not so much variety in the color of different individuals. Their flesh is exquisite. They are very shy, running away with sin- gular rapidity, and concealing themselves on the approach of the

37

290 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

sportsman. When flushed, they fly with great vigor and swift- ness, and where the trees and bushes are not too dense, afford a very good mark.

Ath. — This morning, the wind being fair, we took the pilot on board, and at 8 o'clock, stood out. While in the middle of the passage, the breeze fell very light, and our vessel began to swino- towards the high and dangerous reef which was just beside us. For myself, I gave our good ship up for lost, and was waiting to see her dashed upon the rocks, which I thought was inevitable. This was evidently the opinion of our captain also. As he stood upon the rail, looking out ahead, and casting his eyes anxiously upon the sunken rocks under our quarter, I perceived his countenance change ; but still he was calm, and gave his orders, in obedience to the signals of the pilot, with coolness and precision. At the instant when I fancied, (and I believe cor- rectly,) that we were in the most imminent peril, a light breeze struck our sails, which were soon filled, and the ship made some headway ; then followed a strong puff", and in about five minutes more, we were past all danger. The captain sprang down from the rail, ejaculating, " thank God, thank God !" and he had reason. A fine ship, a valuable cargo, and many lives still more valuable, in all probability, depended upon that single puff of wind.

After congratulating ourselves upon our escape, we all turned anxiously to look at the situation of a whale ship, which at- tempted the passage a few minutes after us, under the direction of a deputy appointed by the authorized pilot. While in difficulty ourselves, we had enough to do to look after our own ship, but now that it was past, all our sympathy was excited for our fellow probationer. He appeared to have more wind than ourselves, and was coming out beautifully, when suddenly, from a cause to us unknov/n, he sheered towards the reef, and the next mo-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 291

ment, to our consternation and horror, the fine ship struck, hung by her keel, and leaned over 'till her yards were in the water. She soon righted again, only to go over upon the other side. Her sails were still set, and drew well with the wind which came freshly off the land, but she would not move ahead, and kept roll- ing and grinding upon the rough coral, showing her clean copper bottom at every moment. The intense and painful interest which we took in the situation of our poor neighbor, would not suffer us to run away and leave him in his extremity, and accordingly, Captain Shaw, Mr. Skinner, and myself went off to him in our boat. When we arrived, we found that the whale boats belong- ing to all the ships in the port, had come out with their com- manders and crews to render all the assistance they could to their unfortunate brother. Most of the boats were made fast to the bowsprit of the ship, and it was attempted to tow her off ; hawsers were carried out, and kedge anchors, and every other means resorted to to get her clear, but all to no purpose. The devoted vessel continued forging higher and higher upon the reef, and in a few minutes more it was found necessary to cut away the masts, in order to lighten and right her. I scarcely ever in my life felt more distressed than when I heard this order given ; it was, however, necessary that it should be done for the sake of the cargo. The poor ship seemed like a human creature in its agony, tossing and groaning as on a bed of pain. A dozen men with axes in their hands mounted on the weather rail, and in a minute the shrouds and back-stays were cut away. The heavy masts reeled and swayed from side to side, for an instant, and then fell with a crash into the sea. Then indeed

" A wreck complete she roll'd."

One little hour before, she had been a noble and stately ship in all the majesty of her beauty, and contained within many a

292 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

manly heart burning with the spirit of enterprise, or dwelling with delight upon the happy home and family which it was then about to seek. How changed the prospect now ! The beautiful fabric is in ruins, and those who risked their all within her, are disheartened and undone. The sight is a melancholy one indeed, and I cannot but think, too, how nearly this deplorable situation had been ours.

When the masts went over the side, the ship righted, as if she felt relieved from a burthen, but in a very short time, the cry " she has bilged," arose from her decks, and the people were put to work getting out all the most valuable private articles, and passing them out of the cabin windows. Here they were received in boats and taken on shore. Soon after this, we observed, as the hull rose and fell, the water pouring in and out of her counter, and very soon she settled upon her side, and lay with one of her gunwales under water, fast anchored upon the coral reef. Nothing more could be done for her safety, and all the efforts of the crew were directed to getting out the cargo of oil. Mean- while, we who could render no service, concluded to go ashore, and as we were about pushing off from the wreck, the captain of the ship requested a passage with us. As we pulled into the harbor, I wished to say something by way of consolation to the poor fellow, but I had no language in which to express my feelings. He is a young man, only twenty seven-years of age, highly spoken of for his activity, perseverance and honesty. He has raised himself from the lowest station to a command, entirely by his good conduct ; this is his first voyage as master, and so far it had been remarkably successful. After we left the ship, he seemed more calm, but as we drew near the shore, he trusted himself with one look towards his former home, and it was too much for his philosophy, — he threw himself back in the boat and wept like a child ! I could almost have wept with

ACROSS THE KOOKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 293

him, for I appreciated and respected his feelings. A ship is a sailor's home, his castle ; he loves her next to his wife and family, and where is the man with a heart in his bosom, who can look upon his home in ruins, and not feel it bleed within him at the sight !

294 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

CHAPTER XVIII.

Island of Eimeo — Jnan Fernandez — Make the coast of Chili — The shore — Town of Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition — Kindness of the foreign resi- dents, ^c. — Preparation by the Chilian government for an expedition against Peru — Foreign adventurers — Disaffection of Vidaurre and other officers in the Chilian artny — Murder of Si^nor Portales by the rebels — Pre- paration for invading the town of Valparaisio — consternation of the inhabi- tants— A battle — defeat of the insurgents — Capture and imprisonment of Vidaurre and seven officers — Flovirie, the murderer — Sentence of the court martial — A military execution — Appearance of the bodies after death —Sail for the United States — Cape Horn — Pernambuco — Cape Ilenlopen — A gale — Arnval at Philadelphia.

May 5th. — This afternoon we got under way, and sailed along the north side of Eimeo, a beautiful island, only twenty miles from Tahiti, and the next morning, (having had a good wind during the night,) the loom only of the land was seen astern.

June 10th. — When I rose this , morning, the island of Juan Fernandez was in sight, distant about thirty miles. The outline is very uneven and rugged, being composed of alternate rough peaks and vallies. We soon approached so near that I distinctly saw, with the glass, a herd of goats bounding over the rocky heights. I felt anxious to set my foot on the shore, hallowed by the romantic narrative of De Foe, but this was impracticable under the circumstances, and I was compelled to abandon it. This is the Botany Bay of Chili ; the number of convicts at pre- sent is about two hundred.

ACROSS THR ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 295

12th. — We have had fine breezes since Saturday, and this morning, at 8 o'clock, we made the coast of Chili, distant about fifty miles. The day has been a lovely, clear one, so that we had a fine view of the land until evening closed. We were then within about eight miles of Valparaiso point, and as it was deemed unsafe to attempt to run in during the dusk, we were compelled to lie to all night. The coast here appears exceedingly bold, with a very small portion of level beach. In the back ground, hills rise upon hills to the far distance, where their summits are crowned by the snow-capt Andes. As the sun sank this evening, and gilded with his departing rays the frozen peaks of these lofty mountains, the effect was truly mag- nificent.

The hills in the vicinity of the shore appear to be totally devoid of vegetation, nor can the eye discern a single shrub in the whole of the vast space comprehended within the range of vision. From our present station, we can see two flag-staffs erected in different situations, upon the tops of two of the highest hills, intended, doubtless, as a guide for mariners ; and in one of the little valleys, we observe a small, but neat looking village of white houses. The harbor of Valparaiso is deeply embayed within the hills, so that we have not yet had a sight of it.

13th. — Early this morning we passed the point, and came immediately in view of the town of Valparaiso. The houses appeared thickly grouped together, but without any attention to order or regularity, and between these groups, there often inter- vened large uninhabited spaces, producing the appearance, from the harbor, of several towns. Immediately in front of the bay ; and for the space of a quarter of a mile east and west of it, is the principal part of the city, the place of commercial business and fashion. Back and westward of this, are three large groups of houses, occupying the summits and sides of three hills, com- monly known to foreigners by the nautical names, fore-top, main-

296 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY

top, and mizen-top. Occasionally, also, a white cottage is seen to peep out from some little convenient nook among the loftiest hill behind

About half a mile eastward of this on the low land, is the Almendral, (almond grove,) so called from a great number of these trees, which formerly grew there. The houses here are the same in appearance as the I'est, and the city extends in this direction for perhaps a mile. Immediately after we dropped our anchor, the captain of the port came on board for the purpose of examining the ship's papers. Then followed the custom- house officers, who also made the requisite investigations, and in about an hour we were allowed to go on shore. We landed ac- cordingly on a large mole in front of the custom house, and Mr. Skinner and myself called upon Mr. Chauncey, of the house of Alsop & Co., to whom we had letters from Oahu, and by whom we were politely received. After sitting about an hour, we strolled out to look at the town. Every thing here is quite new to me ; the style of building, the manner in which the streets are laid out, the customs, and even the language of the inhabi- tants. It is now more than three years since I saw a town which had any pretensions to civilization, and though so far in- ferior in every respect to our cities at home, yet from my first landing, I have enjoyed the opportunity of seeing an approximation to polite society, generally diffused. I do not mean that I have seen no polite society since I left home ; far from it, but the little which I have seen has been so surrounded by baser material, that here, where civilization predominates, I am more deeply impressed with the contrast.

August 12th. — Here a considerable hiatus occurs in my jour- nal, occasioned by a severe fit of illness which confined me for several weeks to my bed, and from which I did not wholly re-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 297

cover during my residence of two months in Chili. I was so fortunate as to meet here a gentleman from Philadelphia, Doctor Thomas S. Page, by whom I was assiduously attended, and to whose skilful and judicious treatment I consider myself indebted for my recovery. I also received much kindness from Captain E. L. Scott and his estimable lady, as well as from a number of the foreign residents and British naval officers in the port.

The political affairs of the country, and the events to which certain important and recently adopted measures have given rise, are worthy a slight notice.

An expedition is about being fitted out by this country against her sister, Peru. All the men of war belonging to her navy are to be brought into service, and before many weeks there will be bloody work on the shores of South America.

The Chilians have a large and efficient navy, commanded chiefly by foreign adventurers, English and Americans. Peru has also some officers of the same stamp, and thus brother will war against brother ; and for what .' For " filthy lucre," and bloody laurels, worthy to decorate the brow of the first mur- derer.

'• See from his native liills afar, The rude Helvetian flies to war: — Careless for what — for whom he fights ; — For slaves or despots — ivrongs or rights : — A conqueror oft — a hero never.' Yet lavish of his life-blood still. As if 'twere like his mountain rill.

And gushed for ever '."

The reasons assigned by the Chilians for the necessity of the contemplated invasion, are manifold. They complain of aggres- sions and spoliations upon their subjects and commerce, ill treat- ment of their envoys, &c. ; and some time since, a private citizen

of Callao, upon his own responsibility, and with his own re-

38

298 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

sources, without the advice of his government, visited the island of Chiloe in an armed vessel, and laid it under a heavy contribu- tion. The Chilenos considered this a national outrage, and the fire of jealousy and furious animosity, which had been hitherto smothered, burst at once into a flame. A formal declaration of war has been the result, and it appears to be the opinion of the most calculating and discerning foreigners here, that the Chilian forces will be worsted in the conflict.

As might have been expected, many of the subjects of Chili, and some influential ones too, highly disapproved of the projected enterprise. Among these, were a colonel of the army, and his brother, the commandante of the Rezguardo, named Vidaurre, persons of the first respectability in the government, and of con- siderable influence. These men openly expressed their disappro- bation of the public proceedings, and in a short time induced many other officers in the service, as well as a considerable number of the regular troops, to join in a revolt, for the purpose of putting an immediate and summary end to an attempt which they argued could not fail to produce the most calamitous and fatal consequences. As a commencement of this bold and some- what Quixotic measure, they sent an invitation to a man high in office in Valparaiso, named Don Diego Portales, a person of unbounded influence, and indeed the proposer and prime mover of the contemplated expedition, requesting him to meet the chief of the insurgents at Quillota, about five leagues from the town, on business of importance. Portales, without the slightest suspicion of foul play being intended, or the faintest idea of the meditated resistance to the laws, accepted the invitation unhesitatingly, and repaired to the place appointed, accompanied only by his private secretary. Here he was met by Colonel Vidaurre alone, who received him in a friendly manner, and immediately commenced a conversation relative to the invasion of Peru. The colonel expressed his sentiments freely on the subject, which of course

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOTINTAINS, ETC. 299

gave great offence to Portales, by whom he was charged with traitorous and treasonable designs, and who threatened to order his arrest immediately on his return to Valparaiso. This threat had been anticipated, and was the preconcerted signal for the appearance of the troops of Vidaurre, who suddenly rose, like Clan Alpine's warriors, from the bushes where they had been con- cealed, surrounded and made prisoner the unfortunate com- mander-in-chief, stript him in a twinkling of his arms and equip- ments, loaded his hands and legs with heavy irons, and left him in sad and melancholy musing as to his probable fate. In a short time, a small detachment of the insurgents returned, headed by a young officer named Florine, a man who had made himself remarkable by several acts of wanton and bloody atrocity. Portales felt that his hour was come. He knew that he need ex- |3ect no mercy from the man into whose hands he had fallen. He disdained therefore to plead for himself, but only requested that his secretary, (a young man belonging to one of the first families in Chili,) who was of course perfectly innocent, might be suffered to depart without molestation. This request the ruffian said he could not grant, but told them both to prepare instantly for death, for that they had not five minutes to live.

After both the victims had performed their devotions, which they did in the most calm and devout manner, a signal was given, and the whole detachment fired their pieces within a few yards of the unhappy prisoners. The young secretary was instantly killed, but Portales himself still stood, being but slightly wounded in the side ; and it is said that, in this most trying mo- ment, his admirable courage and self command, did not desert him.

He stood and looked with a proud, cold eye upon his execu- tioners. Not a man among them dared to meet that glance, but every one cast down his eyes in admiration and profound awe. They stood in the presence of a superior mind, and they cowered

300 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNKV

like abject worms before its influence. Young Florine, however, was not to be so daunted. Enraged that he whom he chose to consider his enemy, still survived, he gnashed his teeth and rush- ed upon his bound and defenceless general with his sword. Three several times, did he pass his murderous blade clean through the body of Portales. That calm unwavering eye still kept its basilisk glance upon the convulsed features of the assas- sin, until with the third thrust its lustre was quenched in death ; the poor body which encased the dauntless soul, quivered in the last agony, and fell a lump of senseless clay upon its parent earth.

These details were related by an eye witness, one who, although engaged in the revolt, opposed with manly energy the dastardly and most atrocious act by which it was commenced.

After the perpetration of this lawless and high-handed deed, (which it is generally believed even Vidaurre himself did not sanction, or approve of,) a pacific negotiation with the reigning powers was of course impossible. All engaged in the insurrec- tion would be denounced as felons, and any one of them who should fall into the hands of the authorities would inevitably die the felon's death ; so there was nothing for it but to strengthen their army as much and as rapidly as possible, and forthwith attack the stronghold of the enemies of misrule.

Accordingly the whole army retired to a short distance from the scene of the murder, leaving the dead bodies on the spot, and set on foot the most active measures to increase the number of their forces. In the mean time, the protracted absence of Por- tales, caused much anxiety among his friends, several of whom knew of his having gone to Quillota, and on the day following they repaired thither in all haste, where they found the corpses as they had been left, and conveyed them immediately to Valpa- raiso. The cause and manner of Portales' death was at once

ACKOSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. HOI

suspected, and naturally induced a supposition that this flagitious act of private animosity was but the prelude to public hostility, and therefore the Chilian commander lost no time in getting his regulars and militia under arms, and in readiness to repel the suspected invasion. On the day following, intelligence of the movements, and meditated attack of the rebel army was received in Valparaiso. All was consternation through the town. Every horse that could be found was seized upon for the use of the troops, not excepting private property even ; the merchants sealed up all their specie in boxes, and sent it on board the men of war for safe keeping, and stood ready to embark themselves, with their most valuable effects, in case of the success of the in- vaders.

The Chilian general selected an eligible spot of ground within about four miles of the town, concealing his army as well as ho could, in the quebrados or valleys by which it was bounded, and waited, with what patience he might, the approach of the enemy.

On the 3d of June, at three o'clock in the morning, Vidaurre came on, leading his men quietly and stealthily over the uneven ground, and no doubt thought to take the town by complete sur- prise, and secure an easy, and, perhaps, bloodless victory over the amazed regulars. But he was most sadly mistaken. As his army was silently and warily moving down one of the abrupt hills, in a perfectly unprepared state, a tremendous and most destructive fire was suddenly opened upon them from the bushes upon both sides of the declivity. A large body of men from one valley rushed to the top of the hill, and completely cut off their retreat in the direction from which they came ; a detach- ment from the opposite valley filed off in front, and received them from the town side, and at the same instant, a number of gun- boats, which were stationed in the bay, greeted them with a tre- mendous volley of grape shot and musket balls, which completed

302 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNKY

the panic of the Insurgent army. Once, and once only, did they ' attempt to rally, and in answer to the deadly shower of bullets which was mowing down their ranks, did they discharge a few of their muskets at irregular and trembling intervals, but they were completely routed ; resistance was utterly vain, and the whole mass fled in the utmost dismay and consternation. Some few effected their escape, but the greater number were taken pri- soners, among whom were the colonel himself, the bloody Florine, and six other officers of distinction, besides about twenty subal- terns. The number of killed and wounded I have not exactly ascertained, but I believe it exceeded a hundred.

The news of this victory was of course most agreeable to the inhabitants of the town, (a great number of whom witnessed the combat from the heights,) and quiet and security were immedi- ately restored. When I arrived, (which was only ten days after,) matters were in the most tranquil state. One day more had elapsed than is, by common consent, allotted to the recollection of affairs of an unusual character, and the people were beginning to talk of it as an event which had left but little impression upon the memory.

But the poor otficers of the ill-fated army had not forgotten it- They were languishing on board the Chilian ships of war in the harbor, laden with heavy irons, such as they had caused to be placed upon the limbs of the unfortunate Portales ; they were stowed away in the darkest and most uncomfortable places, and fed upon a miserable allowance of hard bread and water. Add to this, that in consequence of the constant, and sometimes severe motion of the ships in this harbor, they were for weeks dread- fully sea-sick, without medical advice being allowed them, and of course utterly deprived of the power of moving about, and thereby diminishing its pangs, and we can readily believe that they were wretched enough. I felt a sincere commiseration for several of the officers whose history I inquired into, and par-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 303

ticularly for a poor Swede, an almost innocent man, certainly innocent of any participation in tlio death of Portales ; the same who related the interesting particulars of the murder.

For Florine, I never felt much pity. He was a miscreant of the deepest dye ; and when I saw him, a iew days after my arri- val, brought with others on shore, I observed that tlic people seemed to contemplate, with savage pleasure, the haggard and disease-worn lineaments, which physical suffering, and the gnawing worm at his heart, had rendered hideous and for- bidding.

A court martial was called immediately upon the capture of the prisoners, and after a tedious and protracted examination of some weeks, all the eight officers were sentenced to be publicly shot. The long, and most unnecessary delay which preceded the condemnation, was a refinement in cruelty, worthy of the most barbarous horde that ever existed, and sufficiently proved the savage origin of the examining judges. But they had to deal with firm and bold spirits ; — men who had not attempted revolt without calculating the chances of defeat and capture, and their minds were therefore strung to meet the ignominious and painful death which they knew awaited them.

On the 4th of July, the day appointed for the execution, all the stores of the town were closed ; the streets were thronged with people of both sexes, and a stranger, suddenly entering the city, would have supposed that some great national jubilee was about to take place. At 11 o'clock in the morning, the prisoners were brought on shore in boats, accompanied by several officers of the squadron, and a guard of soldiers. In consequence of the severe illness which most of them had so long suffered, ad- ded to the cumbrous shackles on their limbs, not one of them had strength to climb the short flight of steps from the water to the top of the mole. It was necessary for them to be lifted over this impediment, and almost carried to the carts which waited for them

304 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

in front of the custom-house. I saw, by the countenances of the condemned men, that bodily fear or apprehension had not pro- duced the iUness under which they were laboring ; it could be accounted for only by their rigid confinement, unwholesome living, and constant sea-sickness. They conversed with the cowled and shaven priests who occupied the carts with them in a calm, and even cheerful tone.

Poor fellows ! they probably enjoyed the pure air and glorious canopy of heaven, for which, even though they heralded their way to an ignominious and violent death, they were glad to ex- change the gloomy horrors of their prison-house on the sea.

After many delays, which always occur at such times, the carts moved off, preceded and followed by a file of soldiers. The streets were crowded with the populace of all ages, sexes, and conditions, and T, of course, was borne on in the throng towards the place of execution.

I never felt so oppressed with conflicting emotions in my life. Pity and commiseration for the wretched beings who were about to launch out upon the untried ocean of eternity, admiration for the calm and manly resolution which they had shown in this most trying hour, anticipation of the sufferings they were to en- dure in undergoing the dreadful sentence, and a doubt, a strong and irrepressible doubt of the right of poor fallible mortals to assume a power over the lives of their fellows, which should be- long only to the good and righteous Judge of all. Under the in- fluence of the last conclusion, (for such it had become,) I was several times on the point of returning to my lodgings, so as not to sanction by my presence, an act which I could not approve, but I had left with the intention of seeing the end of the tragedy, and as my presence or absence would not affect the event, I fol- lowed with the rest.

In the course of an hour, the carts arrived at the place of exe- cution, which was a large square, fronting on the sea, at the lower

/

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 305

extremity of the city proper, and upper portion of the Ahnendral. Here the prisoners were lifted to the ground, their coats and hats removed, and thrown in a heap together, and each man placed by a sort of arm chair which had been previously provided, the legs of which had been driven firmly into the ground. A large body of troops, to the number of perhaps six hundred, was then brought forward, and stationed around the square; the city guards, on horseback, were arranged within these, and outside the whole open space was crowded with people, as well as the heights over- looking the spot.

After a long and painful pause, the culprits were seated in the chairs, their arms and legs firmly bound to the upright pieces, and a handkerchief tied around the eyes of each.

From this moment every thing was conducted with the great- est despatch. A file of twelve men was drawn up within about five yards of the victims ; the commanding officer waved his sword over his head — every man clapt his musket to his shoulder and fired a rattling volley in the very faces of the poor criminals. It was most wretchedly, most cruelly managed. I had posted myself on the top of a high fence near, and could see clearly every thing that occurred. The volley was fired before even the executioners were prepared ; they had evidently expected more exact and definite orders, and the saturnine priests were taken wholly by surprise, as, when the report of the muskets broke the awful silence, they were whispering ghostly comfort, and administering extreme unction to the unhappy sufferers. As the smoke cleared away, the terrified padres were seen scampering from the area, and mixing in the crowd without. As I antici- pated, not one of the poor wretches was killed. Some were grievously wounded, and struggling convulsively in their bonds, but several seemed to have escaped altogether. Among these were the colonel and young Florine. The former raised his

hand, and tapped his breast several times as though directing

39

306 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY

them where to fire ; and Florine — the diabolical Florine, smiled in scorn and derision ! A reserve of twelve men was then brought forward, and each of them walked up to some one of the victims, and placing his musket against the head or breast, fired at his leisure. The first file had by this time reloaded, and they also marched up, each one of them discharging his piece with the most perfect coolness and unconcern at those of the dying men who still struggled, until at last the horrid butchery ceased with the death of all the culprits. The heads lay flaccid and motion- less upon the bosoms, and the thongs being cut asunder, the bodies fell heavily to the ground. The soldiers were then all marched in single file by the spot that they might look upon the remains of those who had been traitors to their country, and re- ceive a fearful lesson from the sight, after which the bodies were thrown into one of the carts, and conveyed through the streets towards the place of sepulture. The concourse of people still followed, and I several times observed, when the cart was forced to stop for a few minutes by reason of the crowd, that when it moved on again, a pool of dark, frothy blood was always seen on the spot over which it had been delayed. It was very horrible, and I saw more than one man shudder as he looked upon it.

When the cart arrived at one of the small streets in the lower part of the city, on which the burial ground is situated, the bodies were lifted out by the arms and feet, and thrown upon the ground with about as much care and tenderness as the carcasses of so many dogs ! I felt my blood boil at this, but the Chilian gentle- men who were present gave no evidence of such feeling. They had been traitors, and therefore indignity should be added to indignity, until the earth covered the mutilated remains.

While the bodies were thus lying, previous to interment, I re- quested of the guard permission to examine them, which being granted, I stept out from the surrounding crowd, which was kept back by the soldiery, and contemplated with great interest the

ACROSS THE nOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 307

countenances of the dead. On several of these, the traces of in- tense and protracted agony were frightfully apparent. The face of the colonel betrayed no evidence of suffering, and that of young Florine still wore its Caliban grin of defiance and derision, I turned away from it to look at the others. The next upon whom my eye fell was the poor Swede, in whom I had taken so much interest. He had received several balls through the breast, his hair was gory, and his lustreless and dead eyes wide open, but the muscles of the face were not contracted, and I hoped he had passed away without much suffering; but upon moving to the other side, my blood curdled, when I perceived that the whole back of the head had been blown away, exhibiting the empty, brainless skull. But enough, and too much of all this. I would not be thought a lover of the horrible.

The bodies were buried on the same day. The head of the colonel was severed from the trunk, and hung in chains near where the battle was fought. The head and right arm of Florine were similarly suspended on the spot where the murder of Por- tales was committed, and in a few days people ceased to talk, or even think of the tragical fate of the insurgents.

But there are some who will think of them, who will weep and lament for them through long years of sorrow. Mothers are mourning for their children, and " will not be comforted," Wives, sons, and daughters are drinking the waters of affliction, embittered an hundred fold by the violent death of those who were dear to them ! Vidaurre had a mother, wife, and children ; the Swede had a wife and mother in his own country ; many more of them were similarly circumstanced, and even the ruffian Florine will be wept for by the partial eyes of maternal tender- ness.

There was another actor in this revolt whom we have lost sight offer some time. Colonel Vidaurre's younger brother, the com- mandante of the Rezguardo. Although he was fully engaged in

308 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the insurrection, and was on the ground at the time of the murder of Portales, yet he was not in the battle which followed ; and on his examination, found means to prove, that during the time when these scenes were transpiring, he was lying dead drunk at a house in the vicinity. This proof of an alibi cleared him, and his sentence will probably be commuted to imprisonment or transportation.

The squadron for Peru will sail in a few weeks, and it is ex- expected that in a short time an embargo will be placed on all vessels in the port, which will continue in force for a month or more.

On the 22d of August, I embarked on board the brig B. Me- zick, Captain Martin, bound for Philadelphia, and in the evening, sailed out of the harbor of Valparaiso.

September 1th. — During the past week we have had some Cape Horn weather — rain, snow, and hail, but happily, no ice. The sea has been tremendously high, and still continues so, with the weather excessively cold. We may, however, consider our- selves peculiarly favored, as not a day has passed, in which we did not see the sun and ascertain our longitude. Pro- bably the greatest difficulty and danger of this vicinity is the constant darkness and gloom which is its usual cha- racteristic. You are in consequence, unable to ascertain your true position by observation, and dead reckoning fur- nishes but an insecure guide when powerful currents are im- pelling you to leeward, and drifting your vessel towards the most frightful of all dangers, a rocky lee-coast. We have now doubled the cape, and are steering N. E., the island of Diego Ramirez bearing W. 130 miles. We have therefore left the Pacific, and are now in the South Atlantic ocean.

October 8th. — We are within about two degrees of the tropical line, and, with good breezes, only about twenty-five days sail from the capes of Delaware. Oh, who can describe the anxious

ACROSS THK KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 309

longings of him who is approaching his beloved home, after hav- ing been long separated from it, or depict his feelings, his ardent, soul-absorbing feelings, in the prospect of soon holding to his bosom the dear beings who are twined around every fibre of his heart !

Yesterday we passed the latitude of Pernambuco, and are now steerins N. VV. along the northern coast of Brazil.

On the 13th of November, we made Cape Henlopen, and took a pilot on board, at the distance of four miles from land. The next day we ran in, and anchored within view of the light-house, during a heavy N. E. gale. In the night we were so unfortunate as to lose successively both our bower anchors, and were compel- led to run out to sea again. The day following, however, was clear; we procured another anchor at the breakwater, and had a fine run of forty-eight hours to the city. I again trod the shore of my native land, after an absence of three years and eight months. I met again the dear relatives and friends, from whom I had been so long separated, and who had been spared in mercy to welcome the wanderer to a participation in the inestimable bles- sings of Home.

APPENDIX.

CATALOGUE OF QUADRUPEDS,

POUND IN THE TERRITORY OF THE OREGON. 0:j' The new species are designated by an * preceding the vulgar name.

American Bison, or Buffalo, Bos americanus.

Moose, Cervus alces.

Wapiti, or Red Deer, (Elk of the hunters,) Cervus canadensis.

Black-tailed Deer, Cervus macrourus.

White-tailed Deer, Cervus leucurus.

Prong-horned Antelope, Antelope fur cifer.

Grizzly Bear, Ursusferox,

Black Bear, Ursus americanus.

White Bear.

Brown Bear.

American Badger, Meles labradoria.

Racoon, Procyon lotor.

Common Wolf, Canus lupus.

Dusky Wolf, Canus nuhilus.?*

Cinereous Wolf, Canus.

Prairie Wolf, Canus latrans.

Red Fox, Canus vulpes.

Grey Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus.

Cross Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus.

Black, or Silver Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus.

* This is probably a new species. It is much larger than mibilmt, as described, and diftcrs much in its habits.

312

APPENDIX.

Wolverene, or Glutton, Gulo Inscus.

Beaver, Castor fiber.

Musk-rat, or Musquash, Fiber zibethicus.

Sea Otter, Liitra marina.

Land, or River Otter, Li/tra canadensis.

Pine Marten, Mustela martes.

Ermine Weasel, Mustela erminea.

Fisher, Mustela Pennanti.

Mink, Mustela vison.

Mountain Sheep, Ocis montana.

Mountain Goat, Capra americana.

Cougar, or Panther, Felis concolor.*

Hudson's Bay Lynx, Felis hudsonicus. *Townsend's Hare, Lepus Townsendii, (Bachman.) *Wormwood Hare, Lepus artemesia, (Bachman.)

Marsh Hare, Lepus palustris, (Bachman.) *Nuttairs little Hare, Lepus Nuttallii, (Bachman.)

Little Chief Hare, Lagomys princeps, (Richardson.)

Prairie Dog, or Marmot, Arctomys ludovicianus.

Franklin's Marmot, Arctomys Franklinii.

Douglass' Marmot, Arctomys Douglassii.

Richardson's Marmot, Arctomys Richardsonii. *To\vnsend's Marmot, Spermophilus ToiiviseratZJi, (Bachman.)

Hood's Marmot, Spermophilus tridecemlineatus. *Small-pouched Marmot, (the opening of the pouches within the mouth,) not in my collection.

Gopher, or Kamas Rat, Geomys borcalis.

Townsend's Gopher, Geomys Townsendii, [Richard son'' s M.S.S.)

Jumping Mouse, Meriones labradorius, (Richardson.)

White-footed Mouse, Mus leucopus.

Common Mouse, Mus musculus.

Rocky Mountain Rat, Neotoma Drummondii. *Tovvnsend's Meadow Mouse, Arvicola Townsendii, (Bach- man.) *Small Meadow Mouse, Arvicola oregonii, (Bachman.)

* There is a second species of Panther, of which, unfortunately, I possess only the skull anil one foot. 1 believe it to be undescribed.

APPENDIX. 313

Douglass' Tree Squirrel, Sciurus Douglassii, (Bennett.) *Downy Squirrel, Sciurus lanuginosus, (Bachman.) *Richardson's Squirrel, Sciurus Richardsonii, (Baciiman.) *Little Ground Squirrel, Tamias minimus, (Bachman.)

Four-lined Squirrel, Tamias quadrivitatus, (Say.) *Townsend's Ground Squirrel, Tamias Townsendii, (Bach- man.)

Hudson's Bay Flying Squirrel, Pteromys sabrinus. *Oregon Flying Squirrel, Pteromys oregonensis, (Bachman.) *Townsend's Shrew Mole, Scalops Townsendii, (Bachman.) *CoIutnbia Shrew, Sorex, {undescrihed.)

Thick-tail Star-nose Mole, Condylura macroura.

Long-tail Star-nose, Condylura longicaudata.

Hair Seal, Phoca vitulina.

American Porcupine, Hystrix dorsata. *Great-eared Bat, Plecotus Townsendii, (Cooper.)

Say's Bat, Vespertilio suhulatus, (Say.) *?Little Bat, Vespertilio, (imdescrihed.)

Nuttall's Little Hare.

. Lepus *Nuttallii, (Bach.) in Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL page 345, plate 22, No. 1.

" Characters. — Very small : tail of moderate length ; general color above, a mixture of light buff and dark brown ; beneath, light yellowish-gray ; ears broad and rounded ; lower surface of the tail white." ******

" The fur on the back is for three-fourths of its length from the roots of a plumbeous color, then light ash, mixed with buff; and the long interspersed hairs are all tipped with black. The ears are pretty well clothed internally and externally with hairs of an ash color, bordered with a line of black anteriorly, and edged with white. From behind the ears to the back there is a very broad patch of buff, and the same color, mixed with rufous, prevails on the outer surface of the legs, extending to the thighs and shoulders. The soles of the feet are yellowish-brown. The claws, which are slightly arched, are light brown for three- fourths of their length, and tipped with white. The under sur- farce of the tail is white.

40

61	inches
2	((
3 5	u

314 APPENDIX.

Length, from point of nose to insertion of tail,

" of heel, . . . . • .

" of fur on the back,

" of head, 2| «

Height of ear, . . . . . . I2 "

Tail (vertebrse,) . . . . . . I "

" including fur, . . . . . . 1| "

This description is from a single specimen brought by Mr. Nuttall from beyond the Rocky Mountains. It was captured on the banks of a small stream which flowed into the Snake or Shoshone river, where it was not uncommon. We never heard of it on the Columbia, and presume, therefore, that it does not inhabit a very extended range. — Towns.

Townsend's Shrew Mole.

Scalops *TowTtsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Natural Sciences, vol. 8, part I. Scalops canadensis, (Richardson,) Fauna boreali Americana, p. 9.

" This species first described by Dr. Richardson, was incor- rectly referred to the common shrew mole of the United States. Its size and dentition are sufficient evidences of its being a new and distinct species, which, on account of the number and ar- rangement of its teeth, will either require the characters of the genus to be enlarged, or that it be placed under a new subgenus. A specimen of this quadruped was kindly presented to me, by Mr. Nuttall, who requested, that in case it should prove a distinct species, it might be given under the above name. I subsequently received from Mr. Townsend another specimen, a little larger, which I presume to be a mere variety, although very singularly marked.

Description of Mr. NnttalVs specimen. Length of the head and body, . 7 in. 6 lines. Length of tail, . . . 1 in. 6 "

Breadth of the fore palm, ... 7 "

Dental formula. Incis. l. False molars i-l- True molars l. 44.

4 12 0

The body is thick and cyhndrical, shaped like the shrew mole of the United States. The whole upper and under surface is of a dark color, in most hghts appearing black. The hair, when blown aside, exhibits a grayish-black color from the roots to near

APPENDIX. 315

the tips. The tail is slightly clothed with short strong bris- tles.

The specimen brought by Mr. Townsend, is thicker, and about an inch longer. It has a white stripe about two lines wide, commencing under the chin, and running in a somewhat irregular line along the under surface of the body, to within an inch and a half of the insertion of the tail; there is also a white streak commencing on the forehead and extending along the snout." * * ******

Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns.

Townsend's Meadow Mouse.

Avicola*TownsencUi, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, vol. 8, part I. Hash-sko, of the Chinook Indians.

" Body cylindrical, head rather small, whiskers nearly all white, intermingled with a few black hairs ; eyes small ; teeth large, yellow ; ears large, broad, extending a little beyond the fur ; feet of moderate size, toes like the rest of this genus; thumb protected by a rather short, acute nail ; fur on the back, about three lines long, much shorter beneath. Tail scaly, sparingly covered with soft brown hair, a few white hairs at its extremity; feet clothed to the nails with short, brown, adpressed hairs; claws brown; fur above lead color from the roots to near the tips, which are dark brown ; beneath cinereous.

Length of head and body, 6 inches, 0 lines

Length of tail, 2 " 6 "

Fore feet to point of nails, 9 "

From heel to point of nail, 1 " 0 "

Breadth of ear, 5 " " Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns.

Oregon Meadow Mouse.

Arvicola Oregoni, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I.

" This diminutive species is another of the discoveries of Mr. Townsend.

Head of moderate size, body slender, eyes very small for this genus ; ears nearly naked, concealed by the fur ; feet small ; whiskers the length of the head, white and black, the latter pre-

316 APPENDIX.

dominating ; color above, a shade lighter than that of the former species, inclining a little to hoary brown ; ash-colored beneath ; a very minute blunt thumb nail on the fore foot. Length of the head and body, . 3 inches, Length of tail . . . 1 " 2 lines."

Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns.

Townsend's Marbiot.

Spermophilus *Townsendii, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Tet no, of the Walla-walla, and Nez Perces Indians.

" The body is long and rather slender. Head of moderate size ; nose slightly obtuse. Ears short, scarcely a line in height ; nails slender, compressed, and slightly arched ; the thumb pro- tected by an acute and prominent nail ; the second claw in the fore foot, as in all the species of this genus, is longest, and not the third, as in the squirrels. Cheek-pouches not large. Tail thickly clothed with fur, and in the dried specimen appears much flatten- ed ; the fur is soft, smooth, and lustrous.

There is a line of white above and below the eye-brows. The fur on the whole of the upper surface is for one-fourth of its length from the roots of a nearly black color, then a broad line of silver gray, then a narrow line of dark brown, edged with yel- lowish-white, with a few black hairs interspersed, giving it a brownish-gray appearance. On the under surface, where the hair is a little longer than on the back, it is black at the roots, and cinereous at the points ; on the forehead and nose, it is slightly tinged with brown. The line of separation between the colors of the upper and under surface, exists liigh up along the sides, and is very distinctly drawn. The tail on the upper sur- face is the color of the back, slightly tinged with brown beneath; the teeth are white.

Length of the head and body, 8 inches 9 lines,

head, 1 " 10 "

" tail, (vertebrEe,) 1 "

" " including fur, 1 " 6 "

Length from heel to middle hind claw, 1 " 4 " "

I procured a single specimen of this animal on the Columbia river, about three hundred miles above its mouth, in July. It

APPENDIX. 317

was said to be common there at that season, but as I was travel- ing in boats to the interior, had but little time to search for it. I know but little of its habits. It becomes excessively fat, and is eaten by the Indians. Disappears in August, and emerges in the spring in a very attenuated state. — Towns, in lit.

Douglass' Squirrel.

Sciurus Douglassii, (Bennett.) Sciurus Townsendii, (Bach- man.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Ap-poe- poe, of the Chinook Indians.

"This species, in the form of its body, is not very unlike the Sciurus hndsonicus ; its ears and tail, however, are proportion- ably much shorter ; it is about a fourth larger, and in its mark- ings differs widely from all other known species.

Head considerably broader than that of the Sciurus hudsonicus; nose less elongated and blunter, body long and slender ; ears rather small, nearly rounded, slightly tufted posteriorly. As usual in this genus, the third inner toe is the longest, and not the second, as in the Spermophile.

Color. — The whiskers, which are the length of the head, are black. The fur, which is soft and lustrous, is, on the back from the roots to near the points, plumbeous, tipped with brownish- gray, with a few lighter colored hairs interspersed, giving it a dark brown appearance ; when closely examined, it has the ap- pearance of being thickly sprinkled with minute points of rust color on a black ground. The tail, which is distichous, but not broad, is, for three-fourths of an inch, of the color of the back ; in the middle, the fur is plumbeous at the roots, then irregular markings of brown and black, tipped with soiled white, giving it a hoary appearance ; on the extremity of the tail, the hairs are black from the roots, tipped with light brown. The inner sides of the extremities, and the outer surface of the feet, together with the throat and mouth, and a line above and under the eye, are bright buff. The colors on the upper and under parts are sepa- rated by a line of black, commencing at the shoulders, and run- ning along the flanks to the thighs. It is widest in the middle, about three lines, and tapers off to a point. The hairs which project beyond the outer margins of the ears, and forming a slight tuft, are dark brown, and, in some specimens, black.

4	((	6
6	((	4 6
1	((	11

318 APPENDIX.

Length from point of nose to insertion of tail, 8 inches 4 lines.

" of tail, (vertebrae,)

" " including fur,

Height of ear posteriorly, Sole and middle hind claw, . . . 1 " 11 " "

This squirrel is common on the Columbia in pine forests. Feeds chiefly upon the seeds of the pine, and lays up a large quantity of them for winter store, in the hollows of decayed limbs.

It is very unsuspicious and tame ; more so than Sciurus Jiud- sonicus. Voice remarkably loud and harsh ; may be heard several hundred yards. It is in the habit of nipping off small branches from the summits of the trees, and throwing them down, apparently in sport. I have seen at one time at least a dozen of them engaged in this way, within a short distance. The twigs were falling in every direction, and the loud call was not suspended for a moment. The nest is made of sticks and hair, usually in the hollow of a decayed branch, rarely in the bifurcation of limbs. Has four young at a birth, which remain longer in the nest than the common gray squirrel.

I have frequently seen this species tamed, and in the pos- session of the Indian boys. They were very lively and playful. — Towns, in lit.

Columbia Pine Squirrel. Sciurus *Richardsonii, (Bachman,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Small brown squirrel, Leicis and Clarke, Vol. 3, p. 37. Sciurus hudsonicus, var. (^Columbia Pine Squirrel, Richardson.)

" This small species was first noticed by Lewis and Clarke, who deposited a specimen in the Philadelphia Museum, where it still exists. I have compared it with a specimen brought by Mr. Townsend, and find them identical. Richardson, who appears not to have seen it, supposes it to be a mere variety of the Sciurus hudsonicus. On the contrary, Mr. Townsend says in in his notes, ' It is evidently a distinct species ; its habits are very different from those of the Sciurus hudsonicus. It frequents the pine trees in the high range of the Rocky Mountains, west of

APPENDIX. 319

the great chain, feeding upon the seeds contained in tlie cones. These seeds are large and white, and contain a good deal of nutriment. The Indians eat a great quantity of them, and esteem them good. The note of this squirrel is a loud jarring chatter, very different from the voice of the Sciuriis hudsonicus. It is not at all shy, frequently coming down to the foot of the tree to recon- noitre the passenger, and scolding at him vociferously. It is, I think, a scarce species.'

The difference between these two species can be detected at a glance by comparing the specimens. The present, in addition to its being about a fourth smaller, the size of the Tamias lysteri, has less of the reddish-brown on the upper surface, and may be always disinguished from the other by the blackness of its tail at the extremity.

The body of this most diminutive of all the known species of genuine squirrel in North America, is short, and does not present that appearance of lightness and agility which distinguishes the Sciurus hudsonicus. Head large, less elongated, and nose a little blunter than Sciurus hudsonicus ; ears short ; feet of moderate size, the third toe on the fore foot but slightly longer than the second. The claws are compressed, hooked and acute ; tail shorter than the body ; the thumb nail is bi'oad, flat and blunt.

The fur on the back is dark plumbeous from the roots, tipped with rusty brown and black, giving it a rusty gray appearance. It is less rufous than the Sciurus hudsonicus, and lighter colored than the S. Douglassii. The feet, on their upper surface, are rufous ; on the shoulders, forehead, ears, and along the thighs, there is a slight tinge of the same color. The whiskers, which are a little longer than the head, are black, the teeth yellowish- white. The whole of the under surface, as well as a line around the eyes, and a small patch above the nostrils, smoke gray. The tail for about one-half its length, presents on the upper surface a dark rufous appearance ; many of the hairs being nearly black, pointed with light rufous. At the extremity of the tail, for about one inch in length, the hairs are black, a few of them slightly tipped with rufous. The hind feet, from the heels to the palms, are thickly clothed with short adpressed light colored hairs ; the palms are naked. Thesides are marked by a line of black commencing at the

320 APPENDIX.

shoulder, and terminating abruptly on the flanks ; it is about two

inches in length, and four lines wide.

Length of head and body, 6 inches 2 lines. " tail (vertebra?,) 3 " 6 "

" " including fur, 5 " " ears posteriorly, 3 "

" " including fur, 5 "

" sole and middle hind claw, 9 " "

Downy Squirrel.

Scivrus lanuginosvs, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, vol. 8, part I.

" A singular and beautiful little quadruped, to which I have conceived the above name appropriate, was sent to me with the collection of Mr. Townsend.

The head is broader than the S. hudsonicus, and the forehead much arched ; the ears short and oval ; whiskers longer than the head ; feet and toes short, thumb armed with a broad, flat nail ; nails slender, compressed, and acute ; the third on the fore feet is the longest, as in the squirrels. The tail, which bears some resemblance to that of the flying squirrel, is composed of hairs a little coarser than those of the back, and much shorter than the body. On the fore feet the palms are nearly naked; the under surface of the toes being only partially covered with hair, but on the hind feet, the under surface, from the heel even to the extremity of the nails is thickly clothed with short soft hairs.

The fur is softer and more downy than that of any other of our species, and the whole covering of the animal indicates it to be a native of a cold region.

The teeth are dark orange ; whiskers brown ; the fur oh the back, from the roots to near the extremities, light plumbeous, tipped with light chestnut-brown ; on the sides with silver gray ; there is a broad band of white around the eyes ; a spot of white on the hind part of the head, a little in advance of the anterior portion of the ears. The nose is white, which color extends along the forehead till above the eyes, where it is gradually blended with the colors on the back. The whole of the under surface, including the feet and the inner surface of the legs, pure

APPENDIX.

321

9
7
0
5
6	(( "

white. In the tail, the colors are irregularly blended with mark- ings of black, light brown, and white, scarcely two hairs being uniform in color. In general, it may be said that the tail, when examined without reference to individual hairs, is light ash at the roots of the hair, then a broad, but not well defined, line of light rufous, then dark brown, and tipped with rufous and smoke

gray- Length of head and body, . . 7 inches 11 Imes. " tail, (vertebrae, ) . . 4 " 8 "

" " including fur, . . 6 "

" palm and middle fore claw, 1 "

" sole and middle hind claw, 1 "

" fur on the back,

" at the tip of the tail, . 1 "

Height of ear, measured posteriorly. Distance between the orbits, . Of the habits, &c., of this animal, I know nothing. It was presented to me by William Fraser Tolmie, Esq., surgeon of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, by whom it was captured near Fort McLoughlin, on the N. W. coast of America. — Towns.

Toavnsend's Ground SauiRREL.

Tamias *Townsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences, Vol. 8, part I. Qidss-Qitiss of the Chinook Indians.

" This species bears some resemblance to our common ground squirrel of the middle and northern states, {S. lysteri,) it differs from it, however, in its larger size, longer tail, and several other striking particulars.

The body is stouter than that of the former species, the head broader, the nose more obtuse, and the tail nearly double the length. In the arrangement of the teeth and toes, this species does not differ widely from the Sciurus (Tamias) lysteri, except that they are much more robust. The teeth are dark orange ; whiskers, which are a little shorter than the head, black ; a line of fawn color, commencing at the nostrils, runs over the eye- brows, and terminates a little beyond them in a point of lighter color ; a patch of similar commences under the eyelids, and run- ning alona; the cheeks, terminates at the ear. There is a line of

41

322 APPENDIX.

dark brown, commencing at the termination of the nose, where it forms a point, and bordering the fawn color above, is gradually blended with the lighter colors of the head. The ears, which are of moderate size, and ovate, are on the upper margins of the inner surface partially clothed with a few short, brown hairs ; the outer surface is thickly clothed with fur, brown on the ante- rior parts, with a patch of white covering about one-fourth of the ear on the posterior portion. Behind the ear there is a slight marking of cinereous, of about six lines in length, terminating near the shoulder. A line of black commences on the hind part of the head, runs over the centre of the back, where it spreads out to the width of four lines, and terminates in a point at the inser- tion of the tail ; a line of similar color commences at the shoul- ders, and running parallel, terminates a little beyond the hips; another, but narrower and shorter line of the same color, runs parallel with this, low down on the sides, giving it five black stripes. The head and back are light yellowish-brown, present- ing on the upper surface a dusky ochre color. It has not the whitish stripes on the sides, nor the rufous color on the hips, which are so conspicuous in the Sciurus (Tamias) lysteri. On the throat, belly, and inner parts of the legs and thighs, the color is light cinereous ; there is no line of separation between the co- lors of the back and belly. The tail, which is not bushy, is on the upper surface grayish-black, having a hoary appearance. Underneath it is reddish brown, for two-thirds of its breadth, then a narrow line of black, tipped with light ash. The nails are brown.

Length of the head and body, . . 6 inches 9 lines.

" Tail, (vertebrae,) . . . 4 "

Length of tail, including fur . . . 5 "

" head, 2 "

Height of ear, ..... 6 "

Length of heel to middle claw of hind foot, 1 " 6 " "

This pretty little animal, so much resembling our common striatus, is quite common on the Columbia river. It lives in holes in the ground, and is so tame, that it not unfrequently runs over your feet as you traverse the forests. It frequently perches itself upon a log or stump, and keeps up a continual clucking,

3 4		2 2-1
1	(C	3

APPENDIX. 323

which is usually answered by another at some distance, for a considerable time. Their note so much resembles that of the dusky grouse, (Tetrao ohscurus,) that I have more than once been deceived by it. — Towns, in lit.

' Least Ground Squirrel.

Tamias *minimus, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I.

" This diminutive and beautiful species of Tamias, not half the size of the common ground squirrel, is another of the discoveries of Mr. Townsend.

Length of head and body, . . . 3 inches, 9 lines.

" tail, (vertebrse,)

" " to the end of fur. Height of ear, posteriorly. Length of head, . . . . 1 " 3 *<

" heel to end of middle claw, 1 "

The head is rather small ; the nose very sharp pointed ; claws moderately curved, compressed, acute, and dark brown. There is, as in all the species of this genus, a minute blunt nail on the thumb. The feet and legs rather long in proportion to the size of the animal.

The fur is soft to the touch, fine and silky. The teeth, which are not robust, are yellow ; a white streak runs from above and behind the eye to the nostrils, giving the nose a sharp and point- ed appearance. This white lino is marked on the upper surface with an edge of brown ; a minute line of rufous runs from the nose through the eye, terminating at the ear, another commencing under the eye, and running parallel with the last, terminates on the neck ; a line of black commencing on the forehead, extends over the back and terminates at the tail ; this is succeeded on each side by a broad line of whitish-ash, then by a narrower line of brown, commencing back of the neck and running parallel with the rest, till it is narrowed to a point on the hips ; this is succeeded by a line of pure white on each side, similar to the last, and finally, by a broader and shorter stripe of brown, giving it on the back one stripe of black, two of light ash, and four of light brown. The head is cinereous ; the ears have a white spot

324 APPENDIX.

on their posterior surface, similar to tlie last species, and also to another described by Say, as the Sciurus quadrimtatus, with which I have compared it. The neck and whole of the under surface, including the legs and thighs, are white. The tail, which is quite narrow, is dark brown above, edged with light rufous. Beneath, it is rufous near the roots, then a line of black edged with light rufous ; from the end of the vertebra; to the extremity, the hairs are black, a few of them are tipped with light rufous."

This species is found very plentiful along the banks of the Rio Colorado, but I think does not inhabit a very extensive range, as I never saw it after leaving this river. It keeps almost constantly among heaps of stones, on the tops of which it often perches, extending its long tail over its back, and curving it down in front of its head. At such times it emits a lively, garrulous note like the squeaking of a young puppy ; but if approached, darts off with astonishing swiftness, carrying the tail level with the ground, and almost eluding the eye by the activity of its motions, and con- ceals itself under some jutting rock or in the interstices of a stone heap until the intruder has passed. — Towns, in lit.

Townsend's Geeat-eared Bat.

Plecotus*Tow7isendii, (Cooper,) Annals of the Lyceum of ' Nat. History of N. York, Vol. 4, p. 73. [Plate 3, fig. 6, the head.] So-capual of the Chinook Indians.

" Fur on the back dusky at base, brown at the tips, with a ferruginous cast, the two tints appearing nearly uniform. The ears are fringed with fur. Beneath, the fur is of a reddish cinereous or ochreous hue, lighter towards the tail, but not in the least whitish. The nose is similar to the P. Lccontii, but the fleshy crests between the eyes and nostrils appear to be still larger, and in the preserved specimens are much more con- spicuous. The ears are similar, though every way more ample in the present, and presenting a ditferent outline immediately after rising from the forehead ; the auricle broader and larger. The wing and tail membranes are entirely naked, dusky, of a thicker texture, and much more strongly reticulated than in the first species.

APPENDIX. 325

Incisors |, canines ^Ei? iifiolars ^= 36.

Total leno-th, . . .3.8 inches.

Ears, . . . . 1.1 "

Tail, . . . . 1.7 "

Fore arm, . . . 1.8 "

Tibia, . . . . 0.8 "

Spread, . . . 11.0 "

Three specimens of this very distinct new species were brought from the Columbia river by Mr. John K. Townsend, where he procured them on his late journey. It is very like the P. Le- contii, but they may be readily known by the color of the under part of the body, besides which they differ in almost all their details of color and proportions, the present being a larger and more robust animal. Together, they seem to form a small group in the genus, characterized by the double fleshy crest of the nose, which is not mentioned as occurring in any other species.

Verpertilio megalotis, (Rat.) Plecotis Rafinesquii, (Lesson,) which is described as having the auricle as long as the ears, can- not be either of our species. I am not acquainted with any other species within the United States."

Inhabits the Columbia river district, rather common. Fre- quents the store houses attached to the forts, seldom emerging from them even at night. This, and a species of Verpertilio, (V. subulatus,) which is even more numerous, are protected by the gentlemen of the Hudsfm's Bay Company, for their services in destroying the dermestes which abound in their fur establish- ments.— Towns.

Townsend's Hare.

Lepus *Townsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences. Vol. 8, part I., figure. Poolalik of the Walla-walla and Nez Perces Indians.

" This species, which is another of the discoveries of Mr. Townsend, and of which no specimen exists in any museum that I have had an opportunity of examining, is one of the most sin- gular hares that has fallen under my notice.

Characters. — Size of the northern hare, (L. amcricanus.) Ears, tail, legs, and tarsi, very long. Color above, light gray ;

326

APPENDIX.

beneath, white. Crown of the head, cheeks, neck, and wliole upper parts — the front of the ears and legs, externally — gray, with a faint cream-colored wash. Hairs whitish, or silver-gray at base, then brownish-white, then black, with a faint cream tinge, and ultimately tipped with black ; interspersed with long, silky hairs, some of which are wholly black. Chin, throat, whole under surface, interior of legs, the whole of the tail, (with the exception of a narrow, dark line on the top,) pure white to the roots. Irides light hazel ; around the eyes white. The tips of the back parts of the ears black ; the external two-thirds of the hinder part of the ears white, running down the back part of the neck, and there mingling with the color of the upper surface ; the interior third of the outer portion of the ear, the same gray color as the back, fringed on the edge with long hairs, which are red- dish-fawn at the roots, and white at the tips. The interior of the ear is very thinly scattered with beautiful, fine white hairs, being moi'e thickly clothed towards the edge, where it is grizzled black and yellowish, but the edge itself is fringed with pure white, becoming yellowish towards the tip, and at the tip is black. Whiskers nearly as long as the head, for the most part white, black at the roots ; a few hairs are pure white, others wholly black.

Dimensions. From nose to insertion of tail, . . 21 inches 0 lines.

" tail to end of hair,

" " (vertebrffi,) about Ears measured posteriorly, . Length of head measured over the forehead, 4

" from eye to nose,

" from heel to longest nail, . . 5 " 6 ''

The specimen fi-om which the above description and drawing were taken, was a female, procured by Mr. Townsend on the Walla-walla, one of the sources of the Columbia river."

This species is common on the Rocky Mountains. I made particular inq,uiries, both of the Indians and British traders, re- garding the changes it undergoes at different seasons, and they all assured me that it never was lighter colored. We first saw it on the plains of Blackfoot river, west of the mountains, and

5		6
3		3
4		9
4		6
2		0
5		6

APPENDIX. 327

observed it in all similar situations during our route to the Co- lumbia. When first seen, which was in July, it was lean and unsavory, having, like our common species, the larva of an in- sect imbedded in its neck, but when we arrived at Walla-walla, in September, we found the Indians, and the persons attached to the fort, using them as a common article of food. Immediately after we arrived we were regaled with a dish of hares, and I thought I had never eaten anything more delicious. They are found here in great numbers on the plains covered with worm- wood, (Artemesia,) under the close branches of which they often squat when pursued. I will not be qualified that this animal "can leap twenty-one feet at a bound," but it is so exceedingly fleet, that no ordinary dog can catch it. I have frequently sur- prised it in its form, and shot it as it leapt away, but I found it necessary to be very expeditious, and to pull trigger at a par- ticular instant, or the game was off amongst the wormwood, and I never saw it again.

The Indians kill them with arrows, by approaching them stealthily as they lie concealed under the bushes, and in winter take them with nets. To do this, some one or two hundred Indians, men, women, and children, collect and enclose a large space with a slight net, about five feet wide, made of hemp ; the net is kept in a vertical position by pointed sticks attached to it, and driven into the ground. These sticks are placed about five or six feet apart, and at each one an Indian is stationed with a short club in his hand. Afler these arrangements are completed, a large number of Indians enter the circle, and beat the bushes in every direction. The frightened hares dart off towards the nets, and, in attempting to pass, are knocked on the head and secured.

Mr. Pambrun, the superintendent of Fort Walla-walla, from whom I obtained this account, says that he has often participated in this sport with the Indians, and has known several hundred to be thus taken in a day. When captured alive, it does not scream like the common gray rabbit, (Lepvs sylvaticiis.)

This species inhabits the plains exclusively, and seems par- ticularly fond of the vicinity of the aromatic wormwood. Imme- diately as you leave these bushes, in journeying towards the sea, you lose sight of the hare. — Towns, in lit. to Dr. Bachman.

328 appendix.

Wormwood Hare. Lepus *artemesia, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, vol. 8, part I. I-iks, of the Walla-walla, and Nez Perces In- dians.

" Characters. — Small ; of a gray color, with pale rusty on the back of the neck and legs. Tail above, the color of the body; beneath white. Under parts of the neck, and lower surface of the body white, all the fur being gray at the base. Ears as long as the head ; tarsus well clothed.

Description. — The head is much arched — upper incisors deeply grooved. The color of this species is grizzled black, and brownish-white above. The fur is soft, pale gray at the base, shaded into brownish externally, annulated with brownish-white near the apex, and black at the tips. Under parts, and inner sides of limbs, white, the hairs pale gray at the base. Neck, with the hairs on the sides and under parts, gray, tipped with brown- ish-white, having a faint yellow hue. Chin and throat grayish- white, the hairs being gray at the base, and white at their tips. The whole back of the neck, and limbs exteriorly, of a pale, rusty fawn color ; those on the neck uniform to the base. Feet beneath, a very pale, soiled yellow- brown. Tail, colored above as the back, with an admixture of grayish-black hairs ; beneath white. Ears externally on the anterior part, colored as the crown of the head, posteriorly ashy-white ; — at the apex mar- gined with black ; internally nearly naked, excepting on the posterior part, where they are grizzled with grayish-black and white ,• in the apical portion, they are chiefly white.

Dimensions. Length from nose to root of tail. From heel to point of longest nail, . Height of ear externally. From ear to point of nose, Tail, (vertebra?,) about. Do. to end of fur.

This small hare, inhabits the wormwood plains near the banks of the streams in the neighborhood of Fort Walla-walla. I cannot define its range with any degree of certainty, but I have

2	inches 0	lines
3	a	2	li.
2	a	8	11
2	11	7	((
1	<<	1	((
1	((	9	u '

APPENDIX. 329

reason to believe that it is very contracted, never having met with it many miles from this locality. It is here abundant, but very shy and retired, keeping constantly in the densest worm- wood bushes, and leaping, with singular speed, from one to another, when pursued. I have never seen it dart away, and run to a great distance like other hares. I found it very difficult to shoot this animal for the reasons stated. I had been residing at Fort Walla-walla for several weeks, and had procured only two, when, at the suggestion of Mr. Pambrun, I collected a party of a dozen Indians armed with bows and arrows, and sallied forth. We hunted through the wormwood, within about a mile of the fort, and in a few hours I'eturned, bringing eleven hares. The keen eyes of the Indians discovered the little creatures squatting under the bushes, when, to a white man, they would have been totally invisible. This hare when wounded and taken, screams like our common species. — Towns, in lit. to Dr. Bachman.

Oregon Flying Squirrel.

Pteromys *Oregunensis, (Bachman,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8 part, I.

"Characters. — Intermediate in size, between P.volucella, and the northern P. sabrinvs ; ears longer than the latter species ; fur more compact; the lobe of the flying membrane joining the fore foot, much longer in proportion, making that membrane broader ; foot larger ; general color above brown ; beneath yellowish- white.

Description. — All the fur of this species is deep gray at the base; that of the back tipped with yellowish-brown; tail, pale brown above, dusky towards the extremity ; beneath, brownish- white. Whiskers numerous, and very long, chiefly of a black color, and grayish at the tips. Hairs covering the flying mem- brane chiefly black, most of them slightly tipped with pale brown ; feet dusky ; around the eyes blackish ; ears with mi- nute, adpressed brown hairs externally, and brownish-white internally.

This species differs much from P. sabrinns in several very

striking particulars. Although a smaller animal, the bone of the

wrist, which supports the flying membrane, is eleven and a half

42

330 APPENDIX.

lines in length, whilst that of the former is only nine ; thus the smallest animal has the largest flying membrane. The fur of P. sabrimis is much the longest. The fur on the belly of the latter is white, whilst that of oregonensis has an ochreous tinge. The hairs on the tail of P. sabrimis are only slightly tinged with lead color at the roots, whilst in oregonensis it extends to half the length of the hairs. The greater length and less breadth, however, of the ear of the latter, is a sufficient mark of distinc- tion.

From our little Pteromys volucella, the difference is so great, that it is unnecessary to institute a particular comparison. Be- sides being much larger than our little species, and not possess- ing the beautiful downy-white on the belly, the two spe- cies may be instantly detected, in the volucella having its hairs white to the roots, which is not the case in the other species.

Dimensions. Length from point of nose to root of tail,

" tail to point of fur, Height of ear posteriorly, Breadth between the outer edges of the flying

membrane, .....

Longest hind toe, including nail, . Longest fore toe, including nail. From heel to point of nail,

" nose to ear, .....

This species inhabits the pine woods of the Cohu-nbia, near the sea ; very rare. Habits of the P. volucella. — Towns, in lit.

Townsend's Gopuer.

Geomys *Tovmsendii, {Ricliardsoii' s manuscripts,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, Part I.

General color very pale gray above, with a faint yellowish wash ; muzzle dusky-gray ; under parts grayish-white ; chin pure white. Tail and feet white ; the former grayish above. Hairs of the back very pale gray at the base, pale yellow at the apex, the extreme tip cinereous. Teeth yellowish-white. Upper inci- sors with a faint groove near the internal margin. Claws and fore feet moderate, white.

6 inches	, 8 lines-
6 "	0 "
•	7 »
8 "	0 "
•	H "
•	H "
1 "	6i "
1 "	6 ""

APPENDIX. 331

Dimensions.

7 inches, 6 lines. 2 " 9 "

1 " 3i "

5 "

1 " 5 "

From nose to tail,

X d.ll, • • • •

Tarsus, ....

Central claw of fore foot,

From nose to ear. The specimen was procured by Mr. Townsend on the Colum- bia river.

I am obliged to confess that I should not have ventured to pub- lish this species as distinct from G. borealis, on my own respon- sibility. The discriminating eye of Dr. Richardson, however, who has studied this genus more carefully than I have had an opportunity of doing, may have detected marks of difference which I have not been able to discover. — Bach.

CATALOGUE OF BIRDS,

POUND IN THE TERRITORY OF THE OP.EGON.

(Xj' The new species are designated by an * preceding the vulgar name.

Californian Vulture, Cathartes calif ornianiis.

Turkey Buzzard, or Vulture, Cathartes aura.

Golden Eagle, Falco chrysaetos.

White-headed, or Bald Eagle, Falco Icitcocephalus.

Fish Hawk, Falco halicetus.

Sparrow Hawk, Falco sparverius.

Pigeon Hawk, Falco columharius.

Merlin, Falco (ssalon.

Great-footed, or Duck Hawk, Falco peregrinvs.

Sharp-shinned Hawk, Falco velox.

Hen Harrier, or Marsh Hawk, Falco cyaneus.

Cooper's Hawk, Falco Cooperii.

Red-tailed Hawk, Falco borealis.

Black Hawk, Falco sancti-joliannes.

Rough-legged Hawk, or Falcon, Falco lagopus.

Common Hawk, or Buzzard, Falco {huteo) vulgaris.

332

APPENDIX.

Winter Hawk, or Falcon, Falco hyemalis.

Great Cinereous Owl, Strix cinerea.

Great-horned Owl, Strix virginiana.

Red Owl, Strix asio.

Mottled Owl, Strix nosvia.

Long-eared Owl, Strix otus.

Short-eared Owl, Strix brachyottis. ,

Little Owl, Strix acadica.

Tengmalm's Owl, Strix Tengmalmi.

Burrowing Owl, Strix cunicidaria.

Passerine Owl, Strix passerinoides.

Meadow Lark, or Starling, Sturnus ludomcianus.

Red-winged Starling, or Oriole, Icterus iihceniceus.

Bullock's Oriole, Icterus Bullocki.

Rusty Blackbird, or Grakle, Qidscalus ferruginet/s.

Raven, Corvus corax.

Common Crow, Corvus corone.

Fish Crow, Corvus ossifragus.

Magpie, Corvus pica.

Clark's Crow, Corvus columbianus.

Steller's Jay, Garrulus Stelleri.

Ultramarine Jay, Garrulus ultramarinus.

Canada Jay, Garridus canadensis.

Black-capt Titmouse, Parus atricapillus. *Chestnut backed Titmouse, Parus rufescens, (Townsend.) *Brown-headed Titmouse, Parus minimus, (Townsend.)

Cedar Bird, or Cherry Bird, Bombycilla carolinensis.

Great American Shrike, Lanius septentrionalis.

Loggerhead Shrike, Lanius ludovicianus.

Tyrant Flycatcher, or King Bird, Muscicapa tyranmoi.

Cooper's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Cooperi.

Pewit Flycatcher, Muscicapa fusca.

Wood Pewee Flycatcher, Muscicapa virens.

Small Green-crested Flycatcher, Muscicapa acadica.

Traill's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Trailli.

Little Flycatcher, Muscicapa pusilla, (Swainson.)

Arkansas Flycatcher, Muscicapa verticalis.

Say's Flycntcher, Muscicapa Saya.

Yellow-breasted Chat, Icttria viridis.

APPENDIX. 333

Solitary Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo solitarius.

VVarbling Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo gilcvs.

White-eyed Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo noveboracensis. ^Mountain Mocking Bird, Orpheus montanus, (Townsend.)

American Robin, Turdvs migratorius.

Varying Thrush, Tardus natma.

Hermit Thnash, Tardus minor.

Wilson's Tawny Thrush, Tardus Wilsonii.

Golden-crowned Thrush, Tardus aurocapillus. * White tailed Thrush, (not in the collection.) *Townsend's Thrush, Ptiliogonys Townsendi, (Audubon.) *Morton's Water Ouzel, Cinclus Mortoni, (Townsend.) ^Columbian Water Ouzel, Cinclus Townsendi, (Audubon.)

Blue-eyed Yellow Warbler, Sylvia cestiva.

Maryland Yellow-throat, Sylvia trichas. *Tolmie's Warbler, Sylvia Tolmei, (Townsend.)

Cserulean Warbler, Sylvia azurea.

Wilson's Green-black Capt Warbler, Sylvia Wilsoiii.

Orange-crowned Warbler, Sylvia celata. *Hermit Warbler, Sylvia occidentalis, (Townsend.) *Black-throated Gray Warbler, Sylvia nigrescens, (Townsend.) ^Audubon's Warbler, Sylvia Audahoni, (Townsend.) *Townsend's Warbler, Sylvia Townsendi, (Nuttall.) *Ash-headed Warbler, Sylvip, {not described.)

Ruby-crowned Wren, Regidus calendula.

Golden-crested Wren, Regulus cristatas.

Common Wren, Troglodytes cedon.

Winter Wren, Troglodytes hyernalis.

Bewick's Wren, Troglodytes Beicicki.

Rocky-mountain Wren, Troglodytes obsoleta.

Arctic Blue Bird, Sialia arctica. *Western Blue Bird, Sialia occidentalis, (Townsend.)

Brown Lark, Anthus spinoletta.

Shore Lark, Alanda cornuta, (Wilson.)

Snow Bunting, Emberiza nivalis.

Louisiana Tanager, Tanagra ludoviciana. *Brown Longspur, Plectrophanes Toivnsendi, (Audubon.)

Luzuli Finch, Fringilla amoena.

White-crowned Bunting, or Finch, Fringilla leucophrys.

332

APPENDIX.

Winter Hawk, or Falcon, Falco hyemalis.

Great Cinereous Owl, Strix cinerea.

Great-horned Owl, Strix virginiana.

Red Owl, Strix asio.

Mottled Owl, Strix nosvia.

Long-eared Owl, Strix otus.

Short-eared Owl, Strix brachyottis. ,

Little Owl, Strix acadica.

Tengmalm's Owl, Strix Tengmalmi.

Burrowing Owl, Strix ciuiicularia.

Passerine Owl, Strix passerinoides.

Meadow Lark, or Starling, Sturnus ludovicianus.

Red-winged Starling, or Oriole, Icterus j^hoeniceus.

Bullock's Oriole, Icterus Bullocki.

Rusty Blackbird, or Grakle, Quiscalus ferrugineus.

Raven, Corvus corax.

Common Crow, Corvus corone.

Fish Crow, Corvus ossifragus.

Magpie, Corvus pica.

Clark's Crow, Corvus columhianus.

Steller's Jay, Garrxdus Stelleri.

Ultramarine Jay, Garrulus ultramarinus.

Canada Jay, Garrulus canadensis.

Black-capt Titmouse, Parus atricapillus. *Chestnut backed Titmouse, Parus ?'ufescens, (Townsend.) *Brown-headed Titmouse, Parus minimus, (Townsend.)

Cedar Bird, or Cherry Bird, Bombycilla carolinensis.

Great American Shrike, Lanius scptentrionalis.

Logijerhead Shrike, Lanius ludovicianus.

Tyrant Flycatcher, or King Bird, Muscicapa tyrannus.

Cooper's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Cooperi.

Pewit Flycatcher, Muscicapa fusca.

Wood Pewee Flycatcher, Muscicapa virens.

Small Green-crested Flycatcher, Muscicapa acadica.

Traill's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Trailli.

Little Flycatcher, Muscicapa pusilla, (Swainson.)

Arkansas Flycatcher, Muscicapa verticalis.

Say's F\ycatcher, Muscicapa Saya.

Yellow-breasted Chat, Icteria viridis.

APPENDIX. 333

Solitary Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo soUtarius.

VVarbling Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo gilvvs.

White-eyed Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo novehoracensis. ^Mountain Mocking Bird, Orpheus montanus, (Townsknd.)

American Robin, Turdus migratorius.

Varying Thrush, Turdus ncuvia.

Hermit Thrush, Turdus minor.

Wilson's Tawny Thrush, Turdus Wilsonii.

Golden-crowned Thrush, Turdus aurocapillus. * White tailed Thrush, {not in the collection.) *Townsend's Thrush, Ptiliogonys Townsendi, (Audubon.) *Morton's Water Ouzel, Cinclus Mortoni, (Townsend.) ^Columbian Water Ouzel, Cinclus Townsendi, (Audubon.)

Blue-eyed Yellow Warbler, Sylvia ozstiva.

Maryland Yellow-throat, Sylvia trichas. *Tolmie's Warbler, Sylvia Tolmei, (Townsend.)

Cserulean Warbler, Sylvia azurea.

Wilson's Green-black Capt Warbler, Sylvia Wilsoni.

Orange-crowned Warbler, Sylvia celata. *Hermit Warbler, Sylvia occidentalis, (Townsend.) *Black-throated Gray Warbler, Sylvia nigrescens, (Townsend.) ^Audubon's Warbler, Sylvia Auduboni, (Townsend.) *Townsend's Warbler, Sylvia Townsendi, (Nuttall.) *Ash-headed Warbler, Sylvip, [not described.)

Ruby-crowned Wren, Regulus calendula.

Golden-crested Wren, Regulus cristatus.

Common Wren, Troglodytes cedon.

Winter Wren, Troglodytes hyemalis.

Bewick's Wren, Troglodytes Bctvicki.

Rocky-mountain Wren, Troglodytes obsoleta.

Arctic Blue Bird, Sialia arctica. *Western Blue Bird, Sialia occidentalis, (Townsend.)

Brown Lark, Anthus spinoletta.

Shore Lark, Alanda cornuta, (Wilson.)

Snow Bunting, Emberiza nivalis.

Louisiana Tanager, Tanagra ludovidana. *Brown Longspur, Flectrophanes Totvnsendi, (Audubon.)

Luzuli Finch, Fringillu amaina.

White-crowned Bunting, or Finch, Fringilla leucophrys.

vVtBfc,

^ *?•

H

334

APPENDIX.

I

Bay-winged Bunting, oi- Grass Finch, FringUla graminea.

Chipping Sparrow, FringUla socialis.

American Goldfinch, FringUla trislis.

Pine Finch, FringUla pinus.

Purple Finch, FringUla purpurea.

Crimson-fronted Bullfinch, FringUla frontalis.

Arctic Ground Finch, FringUla arclica.

Savannah Finch, FringUla savanna. *Oregon Snow Finch, FringUla Oregona, (Townsend.)

Ash-colored Finch, FringUla cinerea, (Gm.)

Evening Grosbeak, FringUla vespcrtina.

Mottled, or Spotted Grosbeak, FringUla macidata. *Green-tailed Finch, FringUla {not described.)

Black-headed Finch, FringUla artricapilla, (Gm.)

Lark Finch, FringUla grammaca.

Tree Sparrow, FringUla canadensis.

Field Sparrow, FringUla pusiJla.

American Crossbill, Loxia curvirostra.

Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Coccyzus americanus.

Red-shafled Woodpecker, Picus mexicanus.

Pileated Woodpecker, Picus pileatus.

Lewis Woodpecker, Picus torquatus.

Red-breasted Woodpecker, Picus ruber. *Black, White-Banded Wookpecker, (not in the collection.) *Black, Red-Backed Woodpecker, {not in the collection.) *Harris' Woodpecker, Picus Harrisi, (Audubon.)

Downy Woodpecker, Picus pubescens.

White-breasted Nuthatch, Sitta carolinensis.

Red-bellied Nuthatch, Sitta canadensis.

Common Creeper, Certhia familiaris.

Nootka Humming Bird, Trochilus rufris.

American Kingfisher, Alcedo alcyon.

Barn Swallow, Hirundo rufa.

Marten, Hirundo purpurea.

ClifT, or Republican Swallow, Hirundo fulva.

White-bellied Swallow, Hirundo bicolor.

Bank Swallow, Hirundo riparia.

Violet-green Swallow, Hirundo thalassina. *Vaux's Chimney Swallow, Cypselus Vatixi, (Townsend.)

a

1 1 ,,

T

c-

H- - v,

APPENDIX.

335

■• I'tlK.

,^I5M

Night Hawk, Caprimulgus virginianiis. Band-tail Pigeon, Co I umb a fas data. Passenger Pigeon, Columha migratoria. Turtle Dove, Columba carolinensis. Plumed Partridge, Perdix plumtfera, (Gould.) *Long-tailed Black Pheasant, (not in the collection.) Rufied Grouse or Pheasant, Tetrao umbellus, Dusky Grouse, Tetrao obscurus. Cock of the plains, Tetrao urophasianus. Spotted Grouse, Tetrao canadensis. Sharp-tailed Grouse, Tetrao phasianellus. White-tailed Grouse, Tetrao leucurus.

Water Birds, *White-legged Oyster-catcher, Hcematopus Bachmani, (Aud.)

Killdeer Plover, Charadrius vociferus. *Rocky Mountain Plover, Charadrius montanus, (Townsend.)

Hooping Crane, or Stork, Grus americana.

Brown, or Sandhill Crane, Grus canadensis.

Great Blue Heron, Ardea herodias.

Night Heron, Ardea nycticorax.

American Avocet, Recurvirostra americana.

Long-billed Curlew, Numenius longirostris.

Esquimaux Curlew, Numenius borealis.

Red-backed Sandpiper, Tringa alpina.

Little Sandpiper, Tringa Wilsonii.

Semipalmated Sandpiper, Tringa semipalmata. *Townsend's Sandpiper, Frinca Townsendi, (Audubon.)

Spotted Sandpiper, Totaniis macidaris.

Yellow-shanks Snipe, Totanus favipes.

Semipalmated Snipe, or Willet, Totanus semipahnatus.

Great Marbled Godwit, Limosafedoa. -

Common American Snipe, Scolopax IVilsonii.

Red-breasted Snipe, Scolopax grisea.

Soree, or Rail, Rallus carolinus.

Common Coot, Fulica americana.

Hyperborean Phalarope, Phaluropus hyperboreus.

Wilson's Phalarope, Phaluropus ffilsonii.

Red Phalarope, Phaluropus fitlicarius.

Little Grebe, Podiceps minor.

336 APPENDIX.

Red-necked Grebe, Podiceps rubricollis.

Black Tern, Sterna nigra.

Glaucous Gull, Larus glaucous.

Common Gull, Larus caniis.

Ring-billed Gull, Larus zonorrhyncJms.

Wilson's Stormy Petrel, Thalassidroma Wilsonii.

Brown Albatross, Diomedea fusca.

White, or Snow Goose, Anser hyperboreus.

White-fronted Goose, Anser albifrons.

Black-headed Goose, Anser canadensis.

Hutchins's Brant Goose, Anser Hutchinsii.

Bewick's Swan, Cygnus Bewickii.

Trumpeter Swan, Cygnus buccinator, (Richardson.)

Mallard Duck, Jinas boschas.

American Widgeon, Anas Americana.

Summer, or Wood Duck, A7ias sponsa.

Green- winged Teal, Anas crccca.

Shoveller Duck, Anas clypeata.

Dusky Duck, Anas obscura.

Pintail Duck, Anas acuta.

Black, or Surf Duck, Fuligula perspicillata..

Blue-bill, or Scaup Duck, Fuligula marila.

Canvass-back Duck, Fuligula valisneria.

Tufted, or Ring-necked Duck, Fuligula riijitorques.

Harlequin Duck, Fuligula histrionica.

Golden-eye Duck, Fuligula clangula.

Long-tailed Duck, Fuligula glacialis.

Goosander, Mergus merganser.

Hooded, or Crested Merganser, Mergus cucullatus.

White Pelican, Pelecanus onocrotalus.

Brown Pelican, Pelecanus fuscus.

Black Cormorant, Phalacrocorax carbo.

*Violet-green Cormorant, Phalacrocorax splendens, (Town- send.)

*Townsend's Cormorant, Phalacrocorax Townsendi, (Au- dubon.)

Loon, or Great Northern Diver, Colymbus glacialis.

Black Guillemot, XJria grylle. *Slender-billed Guillemot, Uria Townsendi. (Audubon.)

afpeivdix. 337

Chestnut-backed Tit^iouse. Parus *riifescens, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. 4, pi. 353. Male and female. 7"w/oo(yi/«//a of the Chinook Indians.

Bill black ; head and throat sooty-brown, or dark umber ; a white line from the bill under the eye, extending to the hind- head, where it increases considerably in breadth ; whole back and rump chestnut ; wings and emarginate tail dusky ; the exterior edges of the feathers of the former, as well as the coverts, whitish ; breast, belly and vent, grayish-white, the base of the plumage blackish ; flanks chestnut ; legs and feet blue. Leno-th scarcely 4^ inches ; extent of wings 6| inches. The sexes are very nearly alike.

Inhabits the Columbia river ; common, gregarious. Voice somewhat similar to P. atricapillus, but sharper and more squeaking.

Brown-headed Titmouse.

Parus *minimus, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p, 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV, pi. 35.3. Male, female and nest. A-ha-ke-loh of the Chinook Indians. Bill short, stout, and entirely black ; top of the head light-brown or rust color, paler on the cheeks ; whole back and rump cine- reous-gray ; the wings and tail cinereous-brown, the feathers of the former edged exteriorly and interiorly with light gray ; third and fourth primaries longest ; tail remarkably long, of twelve rather narrow feathers ; whole lower parts gray, the belly and flanks inclining to rust. Legs and feet blackish. Iz'ides yellow. Whole length 4 inches ; length of tail 2 inches ; extent of wings 5 inches. The male and female are very similar in size and markings.

I first observed this little species on the Columbia river in May, 1835, and procured a pair. They hopped through the bushes, and hung from the twigs in the manner of other titmice, twittering all the time, with a rapid enunciation, resembling the words, tsish-tsish-tsee-tsee. Upon my return, I found that Mr. Nuttall had observed the same birds a few hours previously in another place. He said that they frequently flew to the ground

43

338 APPENDIX.

from the bushes, where they appeared to institute a rapid search for insects, and quickly retui'ned to the perch, emitting their weak, querulous note the whole time without intermission. The stomachs of these birds contained fragments of minute coleop- terous insects, and in the ovary of the female was an egg nearly ready for expulsion.

The nest, which Mr. N. found a few days afterwards, is a very curious and beautiful fabric, somewhat like that of the bottle tit of Europe, being from eight to nine inches in length, formed of fine bent, lined with hair, and covered externally with mosses, the hole for entrance near the top. It was suspended from a low bush, and contained seven eggs, very small and beautifully shaped, and pure white.

Mountain Mocking-bird. Orpheus *montanus, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 192. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 369. Male.

Mandibles black, the lower flesh-color at base ; whole upper parts dull grayish-cinereous, slightly barred transversely with white ; flexure of the wing and axillaries whitish ; third pri- mary longest, first and fifth nearly equal ; tail long, rounded, of a dark cinereous color, the three lateral feathers with a lai*ge white spot on the tip of the inner vanes ; lower parts white, with longitudinal, oblanceolate spots of black, largest and most nu- merous on the breast ; a line formed of small black spots extends from the base of the lower mandible on either side, down upon the breast; flanks, vent, and inferior tail-coverts whitish, strongly tinged with bay. Legs and feet yellowish flesh-color. Irides bright yellow. Length 8 inches.

Female unknown.

Inhabits the banks of the Platte river, west of the Rocky Mountains.

Townsend's Thrush.

*Ptiliogonys *Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 419. Female.

Bill black ; whole upper parts of a dark, smoke-gray color, inclining to yellowish ; tail somewhat emarginate, long, the fea- thers black, except the two middle ones, which are of the same color as the back, the outer one almost wholly white, and the

AI'l'ENDIX.

339

two next largely tipped with white ; wings blackish, the feathers broadly margined with light grayish-cinereous; a triangular spot of yellowish-rufous below the lesser coverts, which is scarcely visible when the wing is closed ; lower parts nearly the same color as the back, but lighter ; vent, and inferior tail-coverts yel- lowish-rusty. Legs and feet blackish-brown. Irides dark hazel. Length 7^ inches.

Of this singular bird I know nothing, but that it was shot by my friend Captain W. Brotchie, of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, in a pine forest near Fort George, (Astoria.) It was the only specimen seen.

Morton's Water Ouzel.

Cinclus *Mortoni, (Townsend.) Audubon's Birds of Ame- rica, Vol. IV., pi. 435. Male.

Upper mandible black; lower brownish-yellow, the point black ; head, and neck above, dark cinereous ; back, rump and tail plumbeous ; wings dusky, plumbeous on the edges, the two greater coverts tipped with soiled white ; tail remarkably short ; eyelids white ; a semi-lunated spot of white over the eye ; throat, breast, and upper portion of the belly, grayish-fuscous, inclining to brown, and slightly banded transversely with blackish ; abdo- men and vent, dull grayish-plumbeous ; inferior tail-coverts, which are nearly the length of the tail, barred transversely with gray and blackish. Irides dark hazel. Legs and feet brownish-yel- low. Length about 5 inches.

I have honored this species with the name of my excellent friend, Doctor Samuel George Morton, of Philadelphia. It was shot by Captain W. Brotchie, near Fort McLoughlin, on the N. W. coast of America, in latitude about 49'' N. He stated that it was common there, and inhabited, like the rest of its tribe, the rapid fresh water streams. He procured but one specimen.

Columbian Water Ouzel.

Cinclus *Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 435. Female.

Upper mandible black, the inferior edge bright yellow ; lower, yellow, black at the point ; whole lower parts dark grayish- plumbeous, rather lighter on the head ; a large lunate spot of white over the eye, which inclines toward the front ; wings dark plumbeous, the shoulders lighter ; the exterior vanes of the pri-

340 ArPE>'Dix.

maries, secondaries, and of some of the coverts, grayish-white ; throat, breast, and medial portion of the belly dusky-cinereous; sides under the wings and flanks, dusky ; the whole inferior surface of the body is banded transversely with blackish ; the bands upon the throat are broken, and not well defined, but as they approach the tail they become more distinct ; lower tail-coverts with strongly marked alternate transverse lines of blackish and white. The tail is much longer in proportion than that of the preceding species. Irides dark hazel. Legs and feet bright yellow. Length about 7 inches.

This fine bird inhabits the swiftly running streams of fresh water in the vicinity of Fort Vancouver. It is a very scarce species, as in all my peregrinations I have met with but two in- dividuals, only one of which I was enabled to procure.

This I observed swimming about among the rapids of the stream, occasionally flying for short distances over the surface, and then diving into it, and reappearing after a long interval. Occasionally it would alight on the stones, and at such times jerked the tail in the manner of some of the sandpipers. I did not hear it utter any note.

Hermit Warbler.

Sylvia *occide.ntalis, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL, p. 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 39.5. Male and female.

The bill is wholly black ; the frontlet, crown, and sides of the head yellow, the former rather sparingly dotted with blackish near the nape, where the yellow color almost disappears, by the increase in the size of the spots ; upper parts grayish, thickly spotted with black, and most of the feathers tinged with olive ; the rump is somewhat lighter, having few or no spots, and more strongly tinged with light olive ; wings cinereous, with two bands of white ; tail darker, the three lateral feathers with white on their inner vanes ; throat deep black ; whole' lower parts white. Legs and feet blackish, the soles yellow. Length 5 inches. Extent 7 inches.

The female difl^ers from the male in having the yellow of the crown and cheeks less bright, the dark spots upon the head are larger and more numerous ; the back is of a lighter tint ; the black centres of lTie feathers smaller, and the throat wants the jetty black which is so conspicuous in the male.

APPENDIX. 341

I shot a single pair of these birds in a pine forest on the Co- lumbia river, on the 28th of May, 1835. They were flitting about among the pine trees, very actively engaged in searching for insects, and frequently hanging from the boughs like titmice.

Black-throated Gray Warbler.

Sylvia *nigrescens, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences, Vol. 7, part II, p. 191. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV, pi. 395, male.

The bill is black, and stout ; crown and hind head black, the feathers edged with grayish-plumbeous ; a line from the lower mandible on each side of the head, extending to the neck, white; a similar broad white line above the cheeks, running parallel v/ith the first, and approaching it on the neck ; a small bright yellow spot on the lores ; upper parts grayish-plumbeous, the back and upper tail-covei"ts with a ^ew oblanceolate spots of black ; wings and tail dusky, the former with two white bands ; and the three exterior feathers of the latter with white on their inner vanes ; throat and pectoral collar black; flanks with nu- merous spots of black ; axillaries grayish-white ; belly and vent white, with a tinge of yellowish. Legs and feet dusky-brown. Length nearly 5 inches. Extent of wings 7 inches.

This species is not uncommon in the forests of oak on the Co- lumbia river. It is, however, singularly retired and seden- tary. Its note is a rather feeble, but agreeable warble. Sings chiefly in the morning early ; silent at mid-day. I have reason to believe, that at least a ky^ pairs breed on the Columbia, but I have never been so fortunate as to find the nest.

Townsend's Warbler. Sylvia * Townsendi, (Nuttall,) Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci. Vol. 7, pt. II., pagel91. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV. pi. 393. Male. The crown, lores, a broad patch through the eye to the hind- head, and throat, deep black, the first thickly touched towards the back part, with greenish ; back and rump greenish- yellow, spotted all over with black, the spots somewhat concealed b)'' the recumbent plumage ; wings dusky-cinereous, edged with grayish lead-color, and crossed by two "ra- ther broad bands of white ; tail emarginate, of twelve dusky feathers, the three lateral ones, with white on their inner vanes ; over the eye, from the bill to the hind-head, is a broad

342 APPENDIX.

line of I'ich yellow ; a similar yellow line from the lower mandi- ble, round to the back of the neck, joining the first, and enclos- ing the black patch ; a spot below the eye, also yellow; breast yellow ; flanks marked with yellow, black, and white, the black predominating ; axillaries, belly and vent, pure white ; bill and feet black, the soles of the latter, yellow. Length 5 inches. Extent of winors 7 inches.

I procured but one specimen of this beautiful bird, on the Co- lumbia river, in the spring of 1835. Early in autumn of the same year, I shot another male, in a somewhat plainer livery.

It does not breed there, and I know nothing of its habits.

Audubon's Warbler. Sylvia *Audvboni, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Natural Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 191. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 395. Male and female.

Bill slender, black; upper parts light plumbeous; crown, throat, rump, and sides under the wings, gamboge yellow ; lores, and a broad space behind and below the eye, including the auri- culars, black ; a white spot above and below the eye ; feathers of the back with large, pointed spots of black, occupying the shafts, and a portion of each vane ; wings dusky, all the feathers edged exteriorly with grayish ; wing-coverts tipped with white, forming a large spot below the shoulder ; upper tail-coverts light plumbeous, largely lipped with black ; tail long, nearly even, blackish, edged with dark gray, and every feather, except the two middle ones, with a large spot of white on the inner vane, near the tip ; breast and sides of the belly, black ; medial por- tion of the latter, vent and inferior tail-coverts, white ; legs and feet brownish-black. Irides dark hazel. Length 5 inches.

The female has the upper parts brownish, spotted and streaked with black ; the yellow on the crown, rump, and flanks is more restricted and fainter than in the male, and it wants the large bed of white upon the wing; throat white; breast and belly varied with black and white.

Very common on the Columbia river in the spring, where it breeds. It sings quite prettily, but, like some others of its family, is rather monotonous. The note very much resembles that of S. coronata, to which the species is closely allied, but unlike the bird just named, it keeps in the thickest and most impervious

APPENCIIX. 343

clumps of bushes while singing, and is always silent when en- gaged in seeking its food.

Tolmie's Warbler.

Sylvia *Tolmiei, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 399. Male and female. (S, Philadelphia in the plate.)

The bill is brownish above, pale flesh-color beneath, darker at the point ; lores and narrow frontlet black ; whole head, neck, and upper part of the breast, dark sooty-ash, the feathers of the latter fringed with white ; upper parts greenish yellow-olive ; the tail brighter, and of a uniform color, without spots ; wings lightish cinereous, the exterior vanes of all the feathers, including the coverts, yellow. Legs and feet flesh-color. Length 5 inches. Extent of wings 6^ inches.

The female differs from the male, chiefly by having the head and throat light ash-color, without any black, and in being desti- tute of the black frontlet and lores.

This pretty species, so much resembling the curious S. Phila- delphia of Wilson, is common in spring on the Columbia. It is mostly solitary, and extremely wary, keeping chiefly in the densest and most impenetrable thickets, and gliding through them in a very cautious and suspicious manner. It may, however, sometimes be seen towards mid-day, perched upon a dead twig over its favorite place of concealment, and at such times it war- bles a very sprightly and pleasant little song, raising its head until the bill is almost vertical, and swellins: its throat in the manner of many of its relatives.

I dedicate the species to my friend W. F. Tolmie, Esq., of Fort Vancouver.

Western Blue Bird.

Sialia *occ.identalis, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 188. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 393. Male and female.

Bill dark horn color, or nearly black; head, upper portion of the back, and throat, of a fine deep mazarine blue, the last some- what paler ; a broad transverse band on the interscapular region, and thewhole of the lower breast and belly, dark rufous bay; wings, back, upper tail-coverts and tail, of the same deep blue as the head ; the inner vanes of all the wing feathers dark fuscous; vent and

344 APPENDIX.

lower tail-coverts white ; legs and feet blackish horn-color. Irides dark hazel. Length 6| inches.

The female has the upper parts dark cinereous, slightly waved with blue; the shoulders, primary quills, upper tail-coverts and tail, are rich blue, as in the male ; the greater coverts and in- terior edges of the scapulars and secondaries, whitish ; whole lower parts light bay, the vent and lower tail-coverts white. About half an inch shorter than the male.

Common on the Columbia river in the spring. It arrives from the south early in April, and about the first week in May com- mences building. The nest is placed in the hollow of a decayed tree, and is very loose and unsubstantial. The eggs, four to five, are light blue, somewhat larger than those of the common blue bird, (S. Wilsonii.)

A flock of eight or ten of these birds visited the British fort on the Columbia, on a fine day in the winter of 1835. They con- fined themselves chiefly to the fences, occasionally flying to the ground and scratching among the snow for minute insects, the fragments of which were found in the stomachs of several which I killed. After procuring an insect, the male usually returned to the fence again, and warbled for a minute most delightfully. This note, although somewhat like that of our common Wilsonii, is still so different as to be easily recognised. It is equally sweet and clear, but of so little compass, (at this season,) as to be heard only a short distance. In the spring it is louder, but it is at all times much less strong than that of the common species.

Chestnut-colored Finch. Plectrophanes *o?'nata, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 189. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 394. Male.

Mandibles pale flesh-color, the upper, black along the ridge, and both black at tip ; upper portion of the head black ; a line of white commences at the nostrils, and passes over the eye, where it is expanded so as to form a large semi-lunated spot, and is con- tinued irregularly back to the nape ; below this and towards the throat are several irregular alternate spots of white and black ; auriculars, and gular region faint rufous ; a broad transverse band of deep bay on the hind part of the neck, comprehending a portion of the back ; upper part of the body light cinereous, with

APPENDIX. 345

numerous spots of dusky ; these spots run into each other so as to be scarcely distinguishable; wings dusky ; first and second primaries nearly equal, and longest; upper coverts of the wing slightly edged with cream ; a large transverse band of white upon the lower portion of the throat, margining the faint rufous of the gular region, and joining the bay on the hind part of the neck ; breast and abdomen deep black, irregularly waved with cinereous and white ; vent and inferior tail-coverts white ; tail emarginate, the outer feathers nearly all white; all the others with a large portion of white, chiefly on their inner vanes, the tips dusky. Legs and feet yellowish-dusky. Irides dark hazel. Length Ss inches.

Female unknown.

Inhabits the plains of the Platte river, near the first range of the Rocky Mountains. It appears to live exclusively upon the ground, and is a very rai'e and shy species. I procured but one specimen.

Townsend's Ground Finch, or Longspur.

Plectrophanes ^Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 424. Female.

Upper mandible cinnamon ; lower, light yellow ; whole upper parts, and tail, dark rufous ; wing feathers blackish, edged with yellowish-rufous ; throat, breast, and belly white, with numerous irregular spots and blotches of dark brown ; a line of brown and black spots extends from the base of the lower mandible on each side, down upon the throat ; inferior portion of the flanks, vent, and upper tail-coverts, yellowish-brown, with a few spots of black occupying the centre of the feathers. Legs and feet yel- lowish, claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 65 inches.

This species is common in the neighborhood of Foi't Vancou- ver on the Columbia. It inhabits the dense bushes chiefly in the vicinity of low, marshy places, and feeds upon coleopterous in- sects and worms, for which it searches in the ground by scratch- ing up the earth with its feet. It is observed only in the autumn and winter.

Oregon Snow Finch. Fringilla *oregona, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Natural

44

346 APPENDIX.

Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., page 188. Audubon's Birds of Ame- rica, Vol. IV., pi. 398. Male and female.

The bill is a pale flesh color, the upper mandible brownish at the point ; head, neck, and upper part of the breast, black ; the feathers slightly tipped with white ; on the hind-head and back of the neck, are some touches of brown or bay, mixed with the white sprinkling ; back rufous-brown or bay ; rump grayish- plumbeous, slightly touched with bay ; upper tail-coverts and tail cinereous, the former slightly tipped with pale brown, the outer vanes of the feathers of the latter edged with the same color; first lateral tail-feather pure white ; second white, with the exception of a small edging of cinereous on the outer vane, near the tip ; third, with a broad stripe of white on the inner vane, extending from the point nearly to the base; wings dark cinereous, the outer vanes edged with whitish, the greater coverts and ter- tials margined with bay ; third and fourth primaries nearly equal, and longest ; lower part of the breast and belly white ; flanks light yellowish-bay, the lower tail-coverts with a lighter tint of the same color ; tibial feathers cinereous, spotted v/ith gray. Legs and feet flesh-color ; claws light horn color. Length 5| inches. Extent of wing 8| inches.

The female is very similar to the male, except that the general colors are somewhat fainter.

Common on the Columbia river in winter. Gregarious. Voice, and general habits similar to F. hyemalis.

Prairie Finch.

Fringilla *bicolo?-, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part. II., p. 189. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 390. Male and female.

The head and back are black, shaded with ash ; rump ash ; superior tail-coverts and tail, blackish-brown, the former slightly edged with white ; all the feathers of the latter tipped with white ; a broad patch of white upon the wing ; secondaries and tertials tipped and edged with white ; throat, cheeks, and whole lower parts, deep black, the feathers on the belly, and the inferior tail- coverts, tipped with white. The upper mandible is of a lightish brown color, the lower, pale bluish-white. Legs and feet olive- brown. Length 7^ inches. Extent about 11 inches.

APPENDIX. 347

Tlie female has the head, and whole upper parts, of a light ash, or cinereous color, varied with blackish ; large patches of yellowish-white upon the wing-coverts ; throat and breast varied with black, and white ; belly white ; all the lateral tail-feathers tipped with white on their inner webs.

This very pretty and distinct species inhabits a portion of the Platte country, east of the first range of the Rocky Mountains. It appears to be strictly gregarious. Feeds upon the ground, along which it runs swiftly, like the grass finch (F. graminea,) to which it is somewhat allied. As the large flocks, (consisting often of from sixty to a hundred,) were started from the ground by our caravan in passing, the piebald appearance of the males and females promiscuously intermingled, presented a curious, but by no means unpleasing effect. While the flock is engaged in feeding, the males are frequently observed to rise suddenly to a considerable height, and poising themselves over their com- panions, with their wings in constant and rapid motion, they be- come nearly stationary. In this situation, they pour forth a number of very lively and sweetly modulated notes, and at the expiration of about a minute, descend to the ground, and course about as before. I never observed this bird west of the Black Hills.

Harris's Woodpecker. Picus *Harrisi, (Audubon,) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 417. Male and female.

Bill bluish-black ; feathers covering the nostrils cinereous- brown ; upper part of the head, and an oblong spot below the eye, back ; a stripe of white commences in front of the eye above, and extends back to the nape, where it is joined by a similar stripe, which begins at the lower mandible ; the semicircle form- ed by this white line, encloses the black spot on the auriculars ; another black line commences at the base of the lower mandible, bounding the white, and is continued down upon the shoulder, where it is somewhat expanded anteriorly; a broad occipital band, red ; upper parts black, the wings strongly glossed with blue ; the primaries, secondaries, and a few of the tertails, with nume- rous spots of white ; a stripe down the middle of the back, white; tail long, cuneiform, black, the three exterior feathers brownish- wliite ; the whole of the lower plumage is of a deep sooty-brown.

348 APPENDIX.

whitish on the flanks ;- legs and feet bluish-black. Irides dark hazel. Length 8 inches.

The female differs from the male, chiefly in the absence of the red occipital band.

This species, so much resembling the common P. villostis, is abundant in the forests on the Columbia river. Its habits are very similar to those of its near relative. Builds a loose and un- substantial nest, in the hollow of a decayed tree, and lays four white e2:gs.

Vaux's Chimney Swallow.

Cypcelus *Vauxl, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Female. ,

Bill slender, black ; upper parts of a dull smoke-brown, in- clining to blackish upon the interscapular region ; shoulders and primary quills blackish ; the rump and tail are of a much lighter color than the back, being dull cinereous-brown ; shafts of the tail-feathers, and their points, black ; wings of ordinary length, extending about two inches beyond the tail ; throat, and upper portion of the breast, grayish-white ; belly, and all below, cine- reous-gray. Legs and feet brownish-black. Irides dark hazel. Length 3| inches. Extent of wings 10 inches. It differs from the C pelasgius, with which it has been confounded, in several very striking particulars. It is one inch shorter, and two inches less in extent ; the body is proportionably smaller in every aspect, and the color much lighter.

This species, (which I dedicate to my friend, Wm. S. Vaux, Esq., of Philadelphia,) is common on the Columbia river; breeds in hollow trees, forming its nest in the same manner as the pelas- gius, and lays four white eggs.

White-legged Oyster Catcher.

Hcematopus *Bachmani, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 427. Male.

Bill yellow, red at base, and on the superior portion of the upper mandible ; whole head, neck, and throat black ; back, wings, and rump, brownish-fuscous, varied with a darker tint ; tail somewhat rounded, blackish, the feathers edged with lighter; flanks deep black ; belly, vent, and upper tail-coverts, brownish-

APPENDIX. 349

fuscous. Legs and feet white; claws yellowish-horn color; eyelids bright red ; irides yellow. Length about 17 inches.

This fine species was shot near Puget's sound, by my friend William Fraser Tolmie, Esq., surgeon of the Honorable Hud- son's Bay Company, by whom it was presented to me. I was anxious to give to it the name of its discoverer, but I have been overruled by Mr. Audubon, who has probably had good reasons for rejecting my proposed specific appellation, TolmicL Rocky Mountain Plovkr.

Charadrius *montanvs, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL, p. 192. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 3.50. Male.

Bill and lores black ; front white, this color being continued in a narrow line over the eye to the nape ; head-brownish-cine- reous ; back of the neck, and cheeks behind the eye, yellowish- tawney ; whole upper parts yellowish-cinereous, varied with a darker tint ; wings ligJiter, the shoulders and flexura whitish ; nearly all the secondaries, and some of the primaries, edged with white ; upper tail-coverts, and even tail, brownish-cinereous, the latter tipped with white ; legs and feet yellowish-dusky ; claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 85 inches.

Inhabits the table land of the Rocky Mountains. I saw but one specimen of this beautiful bird, and, as our party was on the move, I was compelled to kill it without delay.

Townsend's Sandpipek.

*Frinca *Toionsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 428. Female.

Bill yellowish-brown, black at the point; a white line below the eye ; whole upper parts dark ashy-cinereous, the secondaries centred with blackish ; rump blackish ; upper tail-coverts pure white ; tail blackish-brown, of ten feathers, the four lateral ones white from their insertion half way to the points, and each tipped with white ; greater wing-coverts, and bases of all the primaries, white, forming a spot upon the wing when closed ; throat white ; breast grayish-cinereous ; under surface of the wings white ; belly, vent, and lower tail-coverts white ; a kw oblong black spots, chiefly on the sides, and lower-coverts ; legs and feet greenish ; claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 10^ inches.

350

AFPENEIX.

I shot one specimen of this curious bird on the base of tlie rocky cape at the entrance of the Columbia river, in November 1836. It was sitting on the edge of the steep rocks, and the heavy surf frequently dashed its spray over it, as it foraged among the retreating waves. When it started, it flew with a quick, jerking motion of its wing, and alighted again at a short distance. Although I resided for many weeks in the vicinity of the cape, I never saw a second specimen. The stomach, which was remarkably strong and muscular, contained fragments of a small black shell fish, of the genus Modiola, which adheres in clusters to the rocks.

Violet-green Cormorant. Phalacrocorax *splendens. (Toavns. in lit. to Audubon.) nP. resplendens (Audubon.) Birds of America Vol. IV., pi, 412. Female in winter.

Bill greenish-dusky, blackish above ; front, light sea-green, which color passes behind the eye, and around the gular region, occupying the chief portion of the neck below ; neck above, deep Prussian blue, with strong reflections of purple ; lateral part of the neck lighter, with numerous minute specks of white, formed by very small, hair-like feathers ; whole upper parts deep green, reflecting shades of purple and violet ; wings greenish, varied with dusky ; bare space on the gullet contracted, of a yellowish-red color ; it includes the eye, but does not extend in front to the lores ; tail long, rounded, dusky ; below, the colors are nearly the same as the back ; a few white spots on the in- ferior portion of the flanks. Legs and feet black ; the middle claw strongly pectinated. Irides light sea-green. Length about 2 feet.

This most splendid of all the species of cormorants yet disco- vered, inhabits in considerable numbers the Rocky Cape at the entrance of the Columbia river, upon the sides of which it often rests, and no doubt rears its young within the natural cavities which front the tempestuous ocean, and in situations wholly in- accessible to man. Sometimes many weeks elapse in which not a single cormorant is seen, when suddenly a flock of fifty or six- ty, is observed to enter the bay, every individual of which imme- diately commences an assiduous search for the small fish and mollusca which constitute its food. It never ascends the

APPENDIX. 351

river, but keeping almost constantly around the cape, under shel- ter of the enormous breakers which are incessantly dashing against it, successfully defies all attempts to shoot it. The pro- curing of the only specimen which I was ever enabled to kill, almost cost the lives of myself and eight men. Our boat was carried with frightful velocity into the furious breakers, and a full hour was consumed in unremitting efforts to escape the danger towards which the swift current was hurrying us.

The Indians of the N. W. coast make cloaks of the skins of this bird sewed together. It is probably even more numerous to the north of Cape Disappointment, and must necessarily frequent less inaccessible places.

TowjVsend's Cormokant.

Phalacrocorax *Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 412. Male.

Bill light-yellow, black above ; crown, and upper part of the neck to the interscapulars, yellowish-fuscous ; lateral part of the hind-head and neck, pointed with white like the preceding spe- cies ; middle of the back, rump and upper tail-coverts, dark greenish, reflecting purple ; tail long, dusky ; lateral portion of the upper surface of the body, including the scapulars and wings, yellowish-fuscous, each feather edged with blackish ; bare space on the gullet, which includes the eye, and extends upon the lores, light red, streaked with a deeper tint ; sides of the head, and throat whitish-cinereous ; breast and belly yellowish-rufous, slightly varied with dusky ; vent and lower tail-coverts dark brownish-fuscous ; a few longitudinal points of white on the tibial feathers ; legs and feet black. Irides dai-k hazel. Length about 28 inches.

This species inhabits the Columbia river, and is not uncom- mon. It is seldom seen near the sea, but is mostly observed high up upon the river. It is, like most species of its genus, par- tially gregarious, and is fond of resting in company. The old trees which are fastened in the bottom of the river, and protrude above the surface, and the isolated rocks in the stream, are its favorite places of resort. Here it sits, sometimes for hours to- gether, indolently gazing into the water, and only leaving its perch to seize an unsuspecting fish, which may happen to pass

352 APPENDIX.

near it. It is very shy and cautious, and is seldom killed even by the Indians, who are fond of its flesh.

Slendee-billed Guillemot.

Uria *Townscndi, (Aubudon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 430. Male and female.

Bill very slender, black ; nostrils small, rounded, open ; an interrupted circle of white around the eye; head and neck above, dark umber brown, slightly waved with blackish ; back, rump, and upper tail-coverts, light yellowish-fuscuos, with broad transverse bands of black ; wings blackish, edged with grayish-plumbeous, the greater coverts tipped with white ; tail short, rounded, extend- ing about an inch beyond t,he closed wings ; throat cinereous- gray waved transversely with a darker tint ; lower parts black, spotted with white; flanks white; legs and feet sulphur yellow; claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 8 inches.

The female has the whole upper parts of a dull cinereous color ; scapulars, and a narrow occipital band, white ; whole lower parts white; a hw black, longitudinal streaks on the flanks. Length about the same as the male.

Inhabits the bays of the N. W. Coast of America, in latitude 38° to 40°. The specimens were shot and presented to me by Captain W. Brotchie, to whom I am under very great obligations for the addition to ray collection of several line species.