gy stopan snnnasel aaron oopsbnnc pp eben SMABLALD aN oN TA MUNN NN ta GA RD at NPN SRA OPIEBTNY SNS BNE NCPR UAL HOUTEN TP SOO TON % a ——— ; Ae A DAH » 05 O as “= cS A NA ee pe. —_ . 3 , A 4 aa, ' d i: 7 q f ji ra X ms \ . ‘bee a % f ZZ ' D3 ag = Beaty 3 ; { Hie ; nar > =. . ry Xs . eed aa oe j 2 eres - sa oP, a ee oe Q Psy : 2 ay \ ¥. + \S ia 7 ah a F a z “s € "3 He 4 3 3 tt ; ff: a. =~ \ et F ye ; j j a 4 p : ig oi : me = : BN aan ‘ ; oceas ~ § J i (aes =- — aN ‘ a | ; bf aoe ‘ ‘ os ‘ { NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51, UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY’S GOVERNMENT. BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON, AUTHOR OF ‘‘TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA.” IN TWO VOLUMES. VOLS. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICCADILLY. MDCCCLITI. LONDON ; Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Description of Tintalous and its Environs— Palace and Huts— Bedsteads — Kailouee Race — Unhandsome Conduct of Mr. Gagliuffi— Proposed Journey to Aghadez— Dr. Barth starts — An obstinate Bullock — Present extraordinary — State of Zinder —Affability of the Sultan— Power of Charms — Scorpions— Dialogue with a Ghatee—Splendid Meteors — Visit from En- Noor— Intrigues of the Fellatahs —A Sultan loaded with Pre- sents— Talk of departing for Zinder— State of the Bornou Road— Division of a Bullock—Bottle of Rum stolen— More Visits from the Sultan—A Musical Entertainment— Curious Etymological Discussions—A wonderful Prophetess — Secret Societies — Magicians— The Evil Eye— Morality of Soudan— Magnificent Meteor—Stories of the Sfaxee_ . : Page 1 CHAPTER II. Muslim want of Curiosity — Gossip on Meteors— A Family Broil — Rationale of Wife-beating—Abominable Dances— Evil Com- munications — Dr. Overweg — Kailouee Vocabulary — Windy Day — Account of Wadai— Madame En-Noor— Profits of Com- merce— The letter Ghain — Fellatah Language—Introduction of Islamism — Desert Routes—Trade in Agate Stones—A lively Patient— The Eed—aA Visit en masse— Arrival of the Boat — Butchers — Exchange of Visits with the Sultan — Diet—A Shereef — A delicate Request —Information on Maradee — Tesaoua — Itinerant Schoolmasters— En-Noor’s Territory in Damerghou — Unpleasant Communication — Amulets — The Foundation of a City in the Desert—En-Noor’s Political Pre- tensions : : : : ; : 2k CHAPTER III. News from Barth—Camels restored — Expensive Journey — Pro- posed Migration of Males—Supply of Slaves, whence—A new Well— Pagans and Christians—Tibboo Manners—The great Gong — When is a Tibboo hungry ?— Hunger-belt— Queen of England in the Sahara—The Shanbah—A hasty Marriage— Dr. CONTENTS. Said’s new Wife—Wild Cauliflowers—Tolerance of the Kai- louees— Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma—Approach of Dr. Barth—Lion’s Mouth—Tibboos and Kailouees— Mysteries of Tintalous— Fewness of Men in Aheer— Trees preserved in the Valley — Bright Stars — Method of Salutation — Purposed Start — Kailouee Character — Champagne at Tintalous — The Wells : ; : ; ‘ : ‘ : . Page 40 CHAPTER IV. Barth’s Journey to Aghadez— Description of the Route — Tig- gedah — Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah — Plain of Tarist — Beautiful Valley — Buddeh — Small Caravan — Aghadez— its Inhabitants —their Occupation—The great Koku, or Sultan — Asbenouee Revolutions— Election of a Prince — Interview — Ceremony of Investiture — Razzia— Intricate Political System — Account of Aghadez — Mosque—Environs—W omen — Tribes of Asben — The Targhee Family — Population of the Ghat Districts — of Aheer—The Oulimad and Tanelkums— Tribe of Janet — Haghar — Sagamaram — Maghatah—Extent of Aheer — Connexion with the Black Countries — Mechanism of Society in Aheer — Chieftains — Tax-gathering — Food of the Kailouees — Maharees — Amusements — Natural Features of Asben — Vegetation — Cultivation — Manufactures — Bags for Charms : : : : 3 : . - : . OF CHAPTER V. Projected Departure for Damerghou—False Start— Picturesque Caravan—Sultan’s Views of White Skins — My Birthday — The Sultan fights his Battles over again— His Opinion of Women— Bragging — The Razzia on the Fadeea— Political News in the Desert — Cold Weather — Continue our Journey — Bornouese Fighis— Tin-Tagannu— Trap for a Lion— Mousa’s Camels — A further Delay — Jackals and the Fire— Language of Signs — Tintalousian Coquettes — Departure of the Zinder Caravan— Natural Features — Languages — The Kilgris— Killing Lice — The Razzia to the North— Present of a Draught board — Pagan Nations — Favourable Reports : : . 79 CHAPTER VI. Medicine for Bad Eyes—A summary Proceeding — News from the Salt-Caravan— Towns and Villages of Tesaoua — Earthquakes —Presents for the Sultan of Maradee — Yusuf’s Insolence — English Money in Aheer—A Razzia on the Holy City — Bor- nouese Studies—Gipsies of Soudan—EHn-Noor and the Mara- bouts — Ghaseb —State of the Weather— Calculations for the CONTENTS. Vv Future — Senna — Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer — En- Noor in his Family — Gouber and Maradee — Beer-drinking — Study of the Sau—Shara—The Oulimad— Lions — Translat- ing Jokes — Digging a Well — Projects : : Page 92 CHAPTER VII. Razzia on the Fadeea— Haussa — Names of Places— Ant-track — Circular Letter from Mourzuk — Vast Rock — Mustapha Bey’s Letter — Effects of Water — Butterflies — Aspect of the Country —A Slave advanced to Honour — Shonshona — Herbage — Birds— Appearance of the Salt-Caravan — Colours of Dawn — Bilma Salt — Mode of Barter — Pass the Rock of Mari — Gra- nite — Indigo Plant— Presents at Stamboul— The Sultan begs again — Old Men’s Importunities — Baghzem— Curiosities of the Route— People of Damerghou— Temporary Village of Women — Country peau to open — Barter Tr ansaction with Lady En-Noor . : : F : ; : . 110 CHAPTER VIII. We continue our Journey —Huntsmen — Gum on the Tholukhs — The Salt-Caravan—A Bunch of Gum—Games among the Slaves — Baghzem— Trees — Palm of Pharaoh — Deserted Vil- lages— Birds’ Nests —Wife of EKn-Noor — Unan — Lizards — Bad News — Christmas-day in Africa — Christmas-boxes — Beg- ging Tuaricks again — Bargot — Musicians —Speculations — Tribes at War —Parasitical Plant— Importance of Salt — Ani- mals —Agalgo— Force of the Caravan— Beat of Drum — Ap- proach the Hamadah — Giraffes — Poisoned Arrows —Ear of Ghaseb— Soudan and Bornou Roads : : : . 124 CHAPTER IX, Enter the Hamadah — Home of the Giraffe — Water of Chidugulah —Turtles — Cool Wind —Jerboahs— Centre of the Sahara— New-year’s Eve — Cold Weather — Birds of Prey —Soudan Date — Burs — Animals on the Plateau — Young Ostrich — The Tholukh-tree— Severe Cold — Eleven Ostriches — Termination of the Desert — Inasamet — The Tagama — Purchases'— People begin to improve — Fruit of the Lote-tree — Village roofed with Skins — Vast Plain — Horses — Approach Damerghou — Village of Gumrek — Rough Customers — Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees—A small Lake — Guinea-hens — Vultures — Party of Huntsmen . : : : ; : ‘ : . 148 v1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. My Barracan— Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou!— Ghaseb Stubble — Cactus —Water-Melons—Party of Tuaricks— Boban Birni— Huts of Damerghou—Tagelel—Women of the Village— Population of the Country—Complaisant Ladies — Festivities— Aquatic Birds—Dancing—A Flatterer—A Slave Family —A new Reason for Wife-beating —Hazna Dancers— Damerghou, common ground—Purchase of Ghaseb—Dethroned Sultan —Yusuf—Mohammed Tunisee—Ophthalmia—Part with Barth and Overweg—Presents to Servants—Sheikh of Fumta— Yakobah Slave— Applications for Medicine—Boban Birni— Forest— At length enter Bornou ground — Daazzenai—Tuarick Respectabilities — Detachment of the Salt-Caravan . Page 161 CHAPTER XI. March for Zinder—Enter the City—Reception—Delighted to escape from the Tuaricks— Letters from Kuka—Hospitable Treatment —Presents for the Sarkee and others—Visit the Shereef—His Duties —Audience of the Sarkee—Servility — Double - skulled Slave —Powder and Shot—Portrait of the Sultan —Commission from Kuka— European Clothes— Family of En-Noor—Tour of the Town—Scavengers—List of Sultans of Central Africa—An- cient Haussa—The Market — Money — Conversation with the Shereef—The Sultan at Home—Mixed Race of Zinder—Statis- tics—Personages of the Court . : : ae 178 CHAPTER XII. Presents from Officials—Mode of treating Camels—Prices—Cowrie Money—Shereef Interpreter—Visits—Harem—Houses—Grand Vizier—Picturesque Dances—Tuaricks at Zinder—Kohlans and Fullans—Province of Zinder—Account of its Rebellions—Trees — Details on the Slave-trade — Prices — Mode of obtaining Slaves — Abject Respect of the Sultan—Visits— Interview with the Sarkee—The Presence—Curious Mode of administering Justice— Barbarous Punishments — Hyzenas — Gurasu — Fig- his—Place of Execution —Tree of Death—Hyena Dens— Dancing . , : : : : : ; : e alo6 CONTENTS. vil CHAPTER XIII. Brother of the Sultan—Trade of Zinder—Prices—The Sarkee drinks Rum—Five Cities—Houses of Zinder—Female Toilette —An- other Tree of Death— Paganism—Severity of the Sultan — Lemons—Barth and Overweg—Fire—Brother of the Sarkee— Daura—Shonshona—Lousou—Slaves in Irons—Reported Raz- zia—Talk with the Shereef—Humble Manners — Applications for Medicines—Towns and Villages of Zinder—The great Drum —Dyers—Tuarick Visits—Rationale of Razzias—Slaves—“ Like Prince like People”—French in Algiers—The Market— Old Slave — Infamous System — Plan of the great Razzia Page 214 CHAPTER XIV. Family of the Sarkee— Converted Jew — Hard Dealings — How to get rid of a Wife— Route to Tesaoua— Influence of Slavery — Prices of Aloes and Silk—Medicine for a Merchant —Departure of the Sarkee for the Razzia—Encampment— Mode of Fighting — Produce of Razzias—Story of the Tibboo—Sheikh Lousou — Gumel— Superstitions —Matting —Visit of Ladies—The Jew —Incendiaries — Hazna—Legend of Zinder Well — Kohul— Cousin of the Sheikh—Female Sheikh—State of the rk ae ot Salutations : : . ° - 233 CHAPTER XV. Political News—Animals of Zinder—Sleepy City—District of Kor- gum—Razzias—Family of Sheikh Omer of Bornou—Brothers — Sons — Sisters — Daughters —Viziers —Kashallas— Power of the Sheikh—A Cheating Prince—Old Slave—Fetishism—Devil in a Tuarick’s head— Kibabs— Fires—A Prophecy —Another Version of the Razzia—Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder. . : : ; : ° : : - 200 CHAPTER XVI. Sheikh of Bornou—Arab Women—News from the Razzia—Proces- sion of newly-caught Slaves—Entrance of the Sarkee — Chained Slaves—My Servant at the Razzia—Audacity of Bornou Slaves — Korgum — Konchai— Product of the Razzia—Ghadamsee Merchants—Slave-trade—Incident at Korgum—State of Kanou —A Hue and Cry—Black Character —Vegetables at Zinder— Minstrel—Medi—Gardens—Ladies—F anaticism—Americans at Niffee — Rich pape eee Sick— Morals— Dread of the Sarkee—Fashions . : d . 263 Vili CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. News from Tesaoua— Razzia on Sakkatou— Laziness in Zinder— The Hajah—Herds of Cattleh—More Tuarick Patients—Gardens —My Luggage—Adieu to the Sarkee—Present from his High- ness—Start from Zinder—Country—Birds—Overtake the Kash- alla—Slaves for Kanou—Continue the Journey —People of Deddegi—Their Timidity — Horse Exercise — Cotton— Strange Birds — Occupation of Men and Women—State of African So- ciety —Islamism and Paganism—Character of the Kashalla— A Dogberry — Guddemuni — Cultivation ee — Dancing Maidens . ‘ é 8 ‘ A : » Page 281 CHAPTER XVIII. A Village plundered—Shaidega—Animals—Our Biscuit —Villages en route — Minyo — Respect for Learning —; Monotony of the Country —A Wedding — Palsy—Slave-agents — Kal, Kal—Birni Gamatak—Tuaricks on the Plain—Palms—Sight the Town of Gurai—Bare Country—Bearings of various Places—Province of Minyo—Visit the Sultan—Audience-room—Fine Costume—A Scene of Barbaric Splendour —Trade— Estimate of Wealth—— How to amuse a Prince—Small Present—The Oars carried by Men—Town of Gurai— Fortifications : : : - 297 CHAPTER XIX. Fezzanee Traders—Sultan in want of Medicine—The Stud—Letters —Yusuf’s Conduct—Architecture—Fragment of the History of Minyo— Politics of Zinder— Bornouese Fish — Visits —Two Routes—Dancing by Moonlight—Richness—Fires—Information on Boushi and Adamaua—The Yamyam—Liver Complaints—A Girl’s Game—Desert Country—Gift Camel—Few Living Crea- tures—Village of Gusumana—Environs—The Doom Fruit— Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou—Stupid Kadi—Showing off— Hot Weather—[ Final Note—Death of Mr. Richardson] . 314 APPENDIX : : u ‘ ¢ : - a3 NARRATIVE or A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA. » CHAPTER I. Description of Tintalous and its Environs—Palace and Huts— Bedsteads — Kailouee Race — Unhandsome Conduct of Mr. Gagliuffi— Proposed Journey to Aghadez — Dr. Barth starts — An obstinate Bullock — Present extraordinary — State of Zinder — Affability of the Sultan — Power of Charms — Scorpions — Dialogue with a Ghatee — Splendid Meteors — Visit from En- Noor—Intrigues of the Fellatahs— A Sultan loaded with Presents — Talk of departing for Zinder — State of the Bornou Road— Division of a Bullock — Bottle of Rum stolen — More Visits from the Sultan —A Musical Entertainment — Curious Etymological Discussions — A wonderful Prophetess — Secret Societies — Magicians — The Evil Eye — Morality of Soudan — Magnificent Meteor — Stories of the Sfaxee. I seain at length to consider myself as it were at home in this singular country of Aheer — without, however, experiencing any desire to dally here longer than the force of circumstances absolutely requires. It must be confessed, as I have already VOL. Il. B » DESCRIPTION OF TINTALOUS. hinted, that the town of Tintalous,* in front of which we are encamped, does not at all answer the idea which our too active imagination had formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is situated on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley, which in the rainy season becomes often-times the bed of a temporary river. Here and there around it are scattered numerous trees, many of considerable size, giving the surface of the valley something of a park-like appearance. The herbage is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the eye in contrast with the black, naked rocks, which rise on all hands to the height often of two or three thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the country is a little open; and between the mountains run in numerous white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh green plants, or shaded by various species of mi- mosa and other spreading trees, under which the shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the sun. The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what . may be called the palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed, one, compared with the huts and stone hovels amidst which it is placed. The materials are stone plas- tered with mud, and also the wood of the mimosa tree. The form is an oblong square, one story high, * Tintalous is 40 short and 30 long days from Ghat, N.N.E. ; 60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long, from Zinder or Damerghou, 8.8.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short, from Bilma, E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (wid Taghajeet). Maharees, of course, trot and gallop in half the time. These are native statements. Del MATERIALS OF THE HOUSES. 3 with an interior courtyard, and various appendages and huts around on the outside. ‘There is another house, and also a mosque built in the same style, but much smaller. Of the rest of the habitations, a few are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah, in the form ofa conical English haystack, and are very snug, impervious alike to rain and sun. ‘There are not more than one hundred and fifty of these huts and sheds, scattered over a considerable space, without any order; some are placed two or three together within a small enclosure, which serves as a court or yard, in which visitors are received and cooking iscarried on. ‘There is another little village at a stone’s-throw north. The inhabitants of these two villages consist entirely of the slaves and de- pendants of En-Noor. All around Tintalous, within an hour or two hours’ ride, there are villages or towns of precisely the same description, more or less numerously peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however, we saw more houses built of stone and mud. ‘This may be accounted for by the fact that the inhabit- ants are not nearly so migratory as those of Tin- talous, who often follow in a body the motions of their master, so that he is ever surrounded by an imposing household. I must not omit mentioning an important article of furniture which is to be observed in all the 4 . TRIBES OF AHEER. houses of Aheer—namely, the bedstead. Whilst most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or mats upon the ground, the Kailouees have a nice light palm-branch bedstead, which enables them to escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack of dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion and the |éfa. I shall hereafter make a few observations on the tribes inhabiting Aheer. Here I will note that they are all called Targhee, that is Tuarick, by the traders of the north ; and that the predominant race is the Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture of the Berbers, or supposed aborigines of the northern coast, with all the tribes and varieties of tribes of the interior of Africa. This may account for their having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks of Ghat, who are purer Berbers; as well as for their disposition to thieving and petty larceny, of which I have recently been obliged to give some examples. The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual than their bastard descendants, who seem, indeed, to have no idea of pleasure but in its grossest shape. The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and active, little encumbered by bulky bodies; some having both complexion and features nearly Euro- pean. At any rate there are many as fair-look- ing as the Arabs generally, whilst others are quite negro in colour. The women are smaller and stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the LETTERS OF CREDIT. 5) eoast, and attain to an enormous degree of embon- point. They are not ill-looking, but offer nothing remarkable in their forms. I have already set down many particulars of manners, and shall proceed to do so in the same dis- jointed way. At a future time all these traits must be collected to form one picture.* For the present I am anxious about the future progress of the Mis- sion, and impatient, at any rate, to hear some news of our advance. We cannot do all the things we would. Our position is almost that of prisoners. We must depend entirely on the caprice of En- Noor, who, however, may already have laid out his plans distinctly, though he does not choose to com- municate them to us. Oct. 2d.—We have been lately discussing the practicability of going to Sakkatou, on a visit to the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked over, for the first time, some “letters of credit” which Mr. Gagliuffi, our plausible consul at Mourzuk, had given me. I found that the amount offered for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not exceed a hundred and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about twenty pounds sterling, and that the agent is ex- pressly requested not to advance any more! ‘This extraordinary document induced me to look further, ** Perhaps the note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts are set down fresh and distinct just as they presented themselves, will be found to be more interesting than an elaborate narrative. At any rate it has seemed better not to attempt to do what was left undone in this matter.—Ip. 6 BARTH S JOURNEY TO AGHADEZ. and it soon appeared that the documents on which I relied so much were mere delusions. The word- ing of the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous ; but in as far as I and my interpreter could make it out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliufi’s in hand, to give me a little! I really did not ex- pect that a person in whom I had placed so much confidence would play me this trick. But it seems that Levantines are and will be Levantines to the end of time. I have written to Government, com- plaining of this unworthy conduct. 3d.— Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of the delay necessarily incurred at Tintalous to visit Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to which the new Sultan has lately been led, and where his in- vestiture will shortly be celebrated. This journey will extend our knowledge of this singular Saharan country, and may also be of advantage in procuring the signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce. 4th.—Dr. Barth started this morning in com- pany with Hamma, Waled Ocht En-Noor (son of the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place in presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to take tea with me. The caravan was at first com- posed of bullocks, the camels being a little in ad- vence on the road. Our friend the Doctor started astride on one of these animals, which are a little difficult to manage, especially when they have been out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first A PRESENT — EN-NOOR’S CHARACTER. v place, it is no easy matter to catch them from amongst the herds; then it is hard to load them ; and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed. On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely unmanageable. En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, ex- claimed that he gave it tome to kill and eat. He afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said that the bullock was also to be distributed amongst the Arabs of the caravans now in Tintalous; and that we were to give a turban as a present to the herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, repre- sentation had been made to him, to the effect that it was unfair to distinguish the Christians in this man- ner. Soon after the animal was given it ran away, and no one could catch it. Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style; and Sultan En-Noor remained taking his tea and eating English pickles and marmalade with me. He drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident pleasure, not being afraid, like the greater part of his subjects, to eat the food of Christians. Possession of power seems to have one good effect—the de- struction of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes further and destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the Sultan of Asoudee had gone out on a razzia to the west. We are obliged to hope that it will be successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially suffer. We talked also of the state of Zinder, which is represented to be a walled town, with seven gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The 8 BOOKS OF THE CHRISTIANS —TALISMANS. governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work every night, but whethér with a purpose superstitious or political I do not know. En-Noor admired much the portraits of the per- sonages who figure in the accounts of the former expedition to this part of the world, particularly that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story to tell of this traveller’s magic. He said that Abdallah (Clapperton’s travelling name) had learned from his books the site of his (En-Noor’s) father’s house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had intended to come and give intelligence of this trea- sure. “See!” exclaimed the Sultan, “ what wonderful thing's are written in the books of the Christians !” My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me, as a secret, that he cannot write a talisman for him- self, but must ask another of the brotherhood to do this for him. Neither in this place can physicians heal themselves. This civil youth made me a pre- sent of a piece of his workmanship to-day, observing, “There is great profit in its power; it will preserve you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the eun.” J pray not to have occasion to test its efficacy, but hope it may also serve as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers. According to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them, each distinguished by a different colour—black, red, and yellow. De- spite the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the DIALOGUE WITH A GHATEE. 9 evening to see the wells which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more than holes scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied by ma-el-matr, “ rain-water,’ which collects only a few feet under the sand, and passes through no minerals. I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which is going in a few days to Ghat. he had received was “few.” The Sultan replied, ‘““ Why should I send many?” A pertinent ques- tion, that seems to have closed the correspondence, but not brought the affair to a conclusion. The Sarkee of Zinder heard that the Sultan of Korgum had just gone out on a razzia, united with the people of Maradee, and has taken this opportunity to make a foray. It is probably with reference to some rumour of this expedition that Overweg writes to me. It is said here that the Sarkee never captures all the people, but leaves a few to breed for another razzia! All the inhabitants of Korgum are Hazna, a fact strongly insisted on as a salve for the con- sciences of my Muslim friends. The Sarkee is expected back on Friday. 254 FAMILY OF SHEIKH OMER. I received a visit from the two Shereefs that were at Mourzuk in our time. They left after us; had remained three months in Ghat, and, of course, detest the Tuaricks. I gave them coffee, and each a cotton handkerchief. 30¢h.—The following are given me as the names of the family of the Sheikh Omer, of Bornou :— Brothers. Abd-Er-Rahman is the eldest brother after the Sheikh, and generalissimo of the army: the province of Minyo belongs to him. Yusuf, a very learned man, a great fighi. Othman, also a fighi. His mother is a native of Mandara. Bou Beker, also a fighi; to him belongs Lim- baua and many estates. Mahmoud, also a fighi; to him belongs Kalulwa and many estates. Abdullah Manufi; to him belongs Gubobaua, consisting of 220 countries or villages. (Gubobaua is one day west of Kuka.) Bashir: fighi; resides with his brother Abd-Er- Rahman, and has a small village. Hamed Rufai; by the same mother as Abdullah Manufi. Mustapha; a great man, having much influence in the country: he has many estates. Ibrahim; fighi, and has estates. Anos, FAMILY OF SHEIKH OMER. 25D Khalil. Ahmed. Hamed Zaruf, a young brother. Hamed Bedawi, a young brother. Abd-el-Kader, a young brother. Abd-el-Majed, a young brother. Mohammed el-Kanemi; young. All these my informant knows. What a family! Verily we are in Africa! Sons. Bou Beker, aged about fifteen years. Ibraim. Hashemi. KKasem. Tahir. Taib. Rufai. Abdallah. Mohammed Lamin (name of his grandfather). Kanami. The mother of the Sheikh is called Magera, a native of Begarmi. Sisters of the Sheikh. Nafisa; to her belongs the country of Kuma- lewa (same mother as Abd-Er-Rahman). Maimuna; to her belongs the place of Wameri (same mother as above). Aisha; to her belongs Koba. Maream. 226 FAMILY OF SHEIKH OMER. Fatema. Mabruka. Hamsa. Alia; to her belongs Hamisah, a village. Halima. Zainubo; to her belongs Furferrai. Mussaud. Fadula. Rabia. Sinnana. Mubarka. Rihana. These are all he recollects among the number. A copious royal family ! Daughters of the Shetkh. Rukaia (married), about twenty years of age; to her belongs Balungu. Fatima, a young girl. No doubt there are others. It is curious to compare this knot of near relations with the scanty families among the Tuaricks. The fertility of the human race seems to be as that of the soil on which its several tribes are located. Deserts may produce conquerors, but the fat lands produce subjects. I may now add a further list, obtained at the same time as the above. The great vizier (or prime minister) is Haj Beshir ; but there are other viziers of more or less power :—Shadeli; Ibrahim Wadai; Rufai (cousin COURT AND POWER OF THE SHEIKH. 25a of the Sheikh); Hamza, and Mala Ibrahim. These form the council of the Sheikh. The chief kady is Kady Mohammed, and ano- ther kady of influence is named Haj Mohammed Aba. The principal slaves (that is to say, the principal favourites in these despotic countries) are Kashalla Belal and Kashalla Ali. The word Kashalla corre- sponds to the title Bey. The brother of Abd-el- Galeel, lately killed, is living at Kuka, and is called Sheikh Ghait. There is also there a brother of the ancient sheikh killed in Fezzan, called Sheikh Omer, uncle of the above. According to my informant, the power of the Sheikh has immensely increased since the days of the first expedition. The Sheikh has now more than 100,000 cavalry, and a great quantity of muskets. Certainly I have ocular proof that Zinder, an im- portant province, has been added to the territories of this most powerful prince. I may as well men- tion, that my authority is Omer Wardi. His father, Mohammed Wardi, went with Clapperton to Sak- katou. The Sheikh, according to this seemingly well- informed person, is paramount sovereign of Begarmi and Mandara,—these states paying each a tribute yearly of one thousand slaves, to which Mandara adds fifty eunuchs,—a most costly contribution. This seems to be the country where eunuchs are made in these parts. VOL. II. s 258 LOUSOU—-OLD SLAVE. Lagun is also under the Sheikh, and has become a province of Bornou. In this country, it is said, there are pieces of eannon. Also, there is another country, Kussuri, four days south of Begarmi, now united to the Sheikh’s territories ; and besides, Maffatai, four days south-east from Kuka (a country of a sultan). Dikua, two days south from Kuka; a province with a powerful sultan, who has the power of life and death. Kulli, one day west of Dikua; Blad-es-Sultan. En-Gala, two days south of Kuka, country of a sultan ; belonging to Yusuf, brother of the Sheikh. I went to see the renegade Jew; he was busy in a quarrel with a servant of Lousou, to whom he had given eight slaves to take to Ghat, to be sold on his account. Lousou had sold the slaves, and rendered no account to the renegade—a most unprincely pro- ceeding, to say the least of it; if, indeed, it would not be more African to say princely proceeding: for there seems no vice, whether violent or mean, which is not exaggerated by the holders of power in these parts. The souk is almost deserted to-day, on account of the Sarkee being absent. I passed the slave-stalls, and saw another poor old woman for sale, upwards of fourscore years of age. The slave-merchants offered her for four thousand wadis, about eight — shillings. People purchase these poor old creatures that they may fetch wood and water, even until their strength fails them and they faint by the way. PAGANS—-SUPERSTITION. 259 I made other inquiries about the Hazna of Zin- der. It seems the Sarkee himself is still half pagan, for at the beginning of every year he proceeds with his officers to a tree, the ancient god of paganism, and there distributes two gofias of wada (about 100,000), three bullocks and sheep, and ghaseb, to the poor. These things are really offered to the deities of his ancestors, though the poor of the country get the benefit of them. There are four or five trees of this description, at which such annual offerings are made; but there is only one Tree of ‘Death where malefactors are executed, the one men- tioned in a former page.* The Muslim converts of Soudan find the Ramadhan excessively burdensome, as well as many other rites of Islamism, and for this reason the greater part of the population of Soudan, who profess Mohammedanism, are still pagans in heart. It is vain to expect a nation to pass from loose to ascetic practices without some moral motive, such as that which sustained the Muslims at their first brilliant start in the world. A Tuarick came this morning and said the devil was in his head, and that he wanted some medicine to drive him out. I gave him an emetic of tartarised antimony, which I hope served his purpose. N.B. The news of the Sarkee having “eaten up” four countries of Korgum is confirmed to-day. _ * See pp. 211 and 218. Probably the second Tree of Death de- scribed was in reality only a fetish tree—Ep. 260 KIBABS—FIRES. The preparation of kibabs is quite a science here. The kibab cook makes a conical hillock of dust and ashes, flattened on the top. The edge of this mound he plants with sticks, on which is skewered a number of little bits of meat: then a fire is kindled between this circular forest, and the sticks are twisted round from time to time, so that every part may be well roasted. To us these kibabs are cheap enough, five or six cowries a stick. The wall of Zinder has no gates, only openings. I went to the garden of the Shereef. The vege- tation does not look very flourishing in this season. The Shereef has planted some horse-beans ; “ the only beans of the kind,” says the gardener, “in all the territories of Bornou.” 31st.—The weather is increasingly cool; therm. at sunrise, 50°. The atmosphere of Zinder never clears up. I was awakened this morning, before daylight, by the cries of “ Fire!” A fire of huts was raging close upon us. This is the third accident of this kind which has taken place during the sixteen days we have been here. The people take them, as a matter of course, with Californian in- difference, and it is likely that there are two or three fires every ten days. A merchant from Kanou (native of Tunis) called to see me. He says the English (Ameri- cans) now bring calicoes, powder, dollars, rum, wadas, guns, and many other things, to Niffee, which afterwards are sent up to Kanou. The slave- PROPHETIC DREAM. 261 trade, therefore, must thrive here; and we get the credit of it, because the ruffians by whom it is carried on speak our language. A great fighi called also to-day to explain any dreams which I might require the interpretation of, bringing with him his Tifsir El-Helam. I told him that last night I dreamt I saw “ two persons fall to the ground upon (from?) the boughs of a tree.” He searched his book and produced a passage, the pith of which was, that anything which IT undertake will not be accomplished. Very agreeable information! I thought we had had bad news enough. The passage made to apply pro- phetically to me ran literally as follows :— “ And whosoever sees (in dreams) a tree fall, or any thing fall from it,—then will not accomplish itself the thing which is between the man who thus dreams.” * I hired to-day Mohammed Ben Amud Bou Saad, at a salary of ten reals of Fezzan a month. I have heard another version of the plan and eause of the present razzia of the Sultan of Zinder. “* Qur own correspondents” cannot be more ver- satile in finding out rumours than the gossips of Zinder. It is now said that the Sultan of Korgum wrote to the Sarkee of Zinder, and asked him if he should make a razzia on or with Maradee. * The unhappy event which soon after this interview occurred, no doubt confirmed the belief of the natives in the powers of this great fighi—Ep. 262 KORGUM AND ZINDER. The Sarkee said, “Go.” But as soon asthe news. came that the sultan was gone, this prince, in whom that other put his trust, immediately set out to make a razzia on the country deserted by its sultan. “ Compos !” cried my Moorish informant; and certainly it was a clever negro trick. It is difficult to know whom to pity or condemn in ‘his ini- quitous affair. We may be certain, however, that the poor women and children, the principal suf- ferers by the razzias, are guiltless in these trans- actions; and we may, without fear, bestow our sympathies upon them. At the same time it is allowable to admire the profound secrecy with which the Sarkee planned his razzia. Not a soul in Zinder, besides himself, knew where he was going. The general opinion was to Daura, which affords scope for a thousand razzias. The correspondence which I have mentioned between the vassals of Korgum and Zinder illus- trates the abominable system on which the Sheikh of Bornou permits his provinces to be governed. Really it is dificult to compare the condition of this extraordinary region to anything but a forest, through which lions and tigers range to devour the weaker and more timid beasts—to which they grant intervais of repose during the digestion of their meals. THE FELLATAHS. 263 CHAPTER XVI. Sheikh of Bornou—Arab Women—News from the Razzia—Proces- sion of newly-caught Slaves—Entrance of the Sarkee—Chained Slaves—My Servant at the Razzia—Audacity of Bornou Slaves —Korgum—Konchai—Product of the Razzia—Ghadamsee Mer- chants—Slave-trade—Incident at Korgum—State of Kanou—A Hue and Cry—Black Character—Vegetables at Zinder—Minstrel— Medi—Gardens—Ladies—Fanaticism—Americans at Niffee—Rich People—Tuaricks Sick—Morals—Dread of the Sarkee—Fashions. Feb. 1st. —It is said that we shall leave this for Kuka on Monday next, whether the Sultan of Zinder returns from his razzia or not. It cer- tainly is a shame that I should be kept here waiting the pleasure of a fellow gone to beat up for slaves to pay his debts. The merchants from Kanou represent the power of the Fellatahs as very strong, if not mereasing. From Sakkatou to Kanou, and Kanou to Nitfee, Yakoba, and Adamaua, everywhere along these lines of towns and populous districts, are found Fellatah chiefs or sultans. Bornou is, however, now much stronger than during the time of the first expedition. The Sheikh has two thousand muskets; so says the Shereef Kebir; whilst in the time of Denham he had only fifty. Certainly two thousand muskets is 264 THE RAZZIA. a progress beyond fifty. The Asbenouee Tuaricks carried away some half-dozen Arab women when they slaughtered the Walad Suleiman. One of these women has been seen, and the Sheikh and the Shereef Kebir are trying to get her back. The Sheikh has sent word that all the Arab women must be restored to their homes. The Shereef Kebir says the powder of this country is all bad, but that Haj Beshir and the Sheikh get English or American powder from Niffee. Leaden bullets are scarce; they use zinc bullets : but these will not go far, resisting the force of the powder ; nor will they penetrate deep when they hit a person. Nitre is found at a place one hour from Zinder, called Kankandi. It is supposed that the Sarkee, not having found slaves enough in Korgum, has gone somewhere else. The Shereef Kebir would scarcely mention the subject of the razzia to me for shame. At length a Moor present said, “ Fish eats up fish, so it is with the Sarkee.” This brought forth a laugh, and seemed to be thought a sufficient salve for all their consciences. A cry was raised early this morning, “ The Sarkee is coming!” Every one went out eagerly to learn the truth. It turned out that a string of captives, fruits of the razzia,* was coming in. * Mr. Richardson interchanges the words razzia and gazia; the latter, I imagine, is the correct word, but the former is better known to European readers.—Ep. ARRIVAL OF THE CAPTIVES. 265 There cannot be in the world—there cannot be in the whole world—a more appalling spectacle than this. My head swam as I gazed. A single horse- man rode first, showing the way, and the wretched captives followed him as if they had been used to this condition all their lives. Here were naked little boys running alone, perhaps thinking them- selves upon a holiday; near at hand dragged mo- thers with babes at their breasts; girls of various ages, some almost ripened into womanhood, others still infantine in form and appearance; old men bent two-double with age, their trembling chins verging towards the ground, their poor old heads covered with white wool; aged women tottering along, leaning upon long staffs, mere living skele- tons ;—such was the miscellaneous crowd that came first; and then followed the stout young men, ironed neck to neck! This was the first instalment of the black bullion of Central Africa; and as the wretched procession huddled through the gateways into the town the creditors of the Sarkee looked gloatingly on through their lazy eyes, and calculated on speedy payment. In the afternoon I was informed that the Sarkee was really about to enter the town. Expecting to see other captives, and anxious to be an eye-witness to all these atrocities attendant on the razzia, I went to see him pass with his cavalry. After waiting ten minutes, there rode up single eavaliers, then lines of horsemen, all galloping to- 266 ENTRY OF THE SARKEE. wards the castle-gates to show the people their equestrian skill; then came a mass of cavalry, about fifty, with a drum beating, and in the midst of these was the sultan. There was nothing very striking in this cavalcade: a few cavaliers had on a curious sort of helmet, made of brass, with a kind of horn standing out from the crown; others wore a wadding of woollen stuff, a sort of thin mattrass, in Imitation of a coat of mail. Its object is to turn the points of the poisoned arrows. The cavaliers thus dressed form the body-guard of the Sarkee. Amongst these troops were some Bornou horsemen, who rode with more skill than the Zinder people. The best cavaliers resembled as much as possible the Arab eavaliers of the north. There were no captives with these horsemen; the slaves had only come in to the number, it was said, of some two or three thousand during the day. Although I wished to see them, I was, nevertheless, spared a repetition of the misery and indignation which the sight in the morning pro- duced in my mind. Ihave been told positively that the poor old creatures brought in with the other captives will not fetch a shilling a-head in the slave- market. It is, therefore, a refinement of cruelty not to let them die in their native homes,—to tear them away to a foreign soil, and subject them to the fatigues of the journey, and the insults of a rude populace, and ruder and crueller slave-dealers. Many die on the road during the two or three days’ march. BLESSING ON CRIME. 267, It is exceedingly painful to live in a place like Zinder, where almost every householder has a chained slave. The poor fellows (men and boys) eannot walk, from the manner in which the irons are put on, and when they move about are obliged to do so in little jumps. These slaves are ironed, that they may not run away. There are many villages and towns, a few days from Zinder, to which they can escape without difficulty, and where they are not pursued. It was exceedingly horrify- ing to hear the people of Zinder salute the troops of the razzia on their return with the beautiful Arabie word, Alberka, “ blessing!” Thus is it that human beings sometimes ask God for a blessing on transactions which must ever be stamped with his curse. The Italian bandit also begs the Virgin to bless his endeavours. It is evident that nothing but the strong arm of power and conquest will ever root out the curse of slavery from Africa. The slave whom Haj Beshir sent from Kuka to Zinder, to accompany me to Kuka, went with the Sarkee, and took one of my servants with him. I did not know anything about it until they were gone. But this evening, on my return from seeing the Sarkee, I found a woman and child, a boy and a young man, tied together, lying not far from my hut, in the enclosure where we are residing. I was excessively indignant at this conduct of Haj Beshir’s slave, although certainly done in ignorance. These captives were the fruits of the part he took 268 MY SERVANT—FIGHIS. in the expedition. JI have not made up my mind whether I will go to Kuka with this fellow, for it is not the first time he has shown something like an insolent behaviour. As to my servant, [I had already discharged him, but the Shereef Kebir persuaded me to let him go with the boat to Kuka, as he knew how to place it on the camels better than the other servants. I scolded him well for going with the razzia, because he himself was once in bondage, and had returned free under our pro- tection. But I fear my words will have little effect; for in Zinder, at least, the great concern and occupation of the black population is, to go and steal their neighbours, and sell them into slavery. I repeat again, nothing but foreign conquest by a non-slaveholding power will extirpate slavery from the soil of Africa. I read Milton’s ‘“Comus” and other portions of his poetry, and find it a great relief in drawing my mind a little off African subjects. I am sorry I did not bring with me a copy of Shakespear. IT have very few books with me of any kind, and fewer maps. I received a visit of fighis from the villages around, also from a sister and niece of the Sultan of Zinder, and gave them all a bit of sugar and sent them off. Around my house exists a swarm of fighis, who can copy charms and a few passages from the Koran. I procured some of the bond fide speci- mens of their calligraphy. There are four different KIDNAPPING. 269 hands. These fighis are all blacks of pure blood. They write sideways. A courier arrived to-day from Kuka, bringing a despatch for the Governor of Zinder, to the effect that, in the event of his finding any people of Bornou committing misdemeanours of any sort, he, the Sultan of Zinder, was at liberty to treat them as he chose. I am told that the Bornou slaves, as well as the free people of that country, when they come to Zinder, have the audacity to seize on whomsoever comes in the way, and take them and sell them as slaves in the souk. This kidnapping is mostly done in the villages around Zinder, but even in the city itself it has been ven- tured; and the Sultan has hitherto been afraid to arrest these Bornouese miscreants. Whata glimpse into the state of the empire of Bornou do such facts afford ! 2d.—This morning the slave of Haj Beshir came to declare that the slaves which he brought here yesterday were not his booty, but belonged to another person, a volunteer. ‘There is no getting at the truth in these countries. The theatre of the late razzia is westwards from Zinder about two days. Korgum is one day from Tesaoua. Konchai_ is a neighbouring country, about four hours from Korgum. The Sarkee attacked four villages of Korgum, but got few slaves. The people, though without their sultan, defended themselves well with their renowned arrows, and when they could 270 ATTACK ON KORGUM AND KONCHAI,. hold out no longer they ascended the rocks and escaped. ‘The wounds of arrows, though poisoned, are not always fatal, and often cured by the remedies known in these countries. The villages of Korgum are called Tangadala Agai. Not getting many slaves there, the Sarkee attacked two or three villages of Konchai. ‘This province contains some three hundred villages. Ganua and Tanbanas were the places razzied. From the latter place six hundred slaves were obtained, nearly half of the whole captured. The total product of the razzia is about fifteen hundred; a thousand for the Sultan’s share, and five hundred for the troops and volunteers. It is said this thousand will not suffice to pay the Sultan’s debts, and it was on account of the fewness of slaves the Sarkee was obliged to bring with him the halt, the blind, the maimed, and the aged, stooping to the earth with age. Besides human beings, the Sarkee captured eight hundred and thirty bullocks, and flocks of sheep; seven hundred bullocks he gave to the troops and volunteers, and one hundred and thirty have been reserved for himself. Four men were killed, and one hundred horses, belonging to Zinder ; but the enemy are said to have lost a good number. All the villages made resistance but one, where the poor people were busy cooking their suppers; when the Sarkee and his famished crew rushed upon them, seized them, and carried them into captivity. This, at any rate, is the report; but, PRODUCT OF THE MAN-HUNT. 271 according to others, the results of the expedition are much less important. All the country razzied is nominally subject to the Sheikh of Bornou, so that this Sarkee of Zinder has been pillaging the Bornou territories, and car- rying off their inhabitants, who are subjects of the Sheikh, to raise money to pay his debts. A certain enmity exists, it is said, between Konchai and Zinder, which formerly was subject to the province of Konchai. According to one authority, the booty of the raz- zia is greatly reduced, even to more than half of what was reported. The share of the Sarkee is four hundred slaves, and one hundred and twenty slaves he gave to his troops. Seven places were attacked, but the people had news of the movements of the Sarkee, and were prepared to receive him: they shot their arrows through their stockades, thick and fast, upon the Sarkee and his people, and then retired to the rocks and behind the trees, which are abundant. Only one country was fairly razzied. Also but few beasts were taken, the people having secured all their cattle and flocks beforehand. The Sarkee got about one hundred bullocks. He took with him no less than two thousand horse, a collection from all the petty governments in the surrounding provinces, with their chiefs. All these forces did little more than beat the air. The capture of five hundred slaves will not pay the expenses of the expedition, but Die GHADAMSEE MERCHANTS. these people never sit down to count the cost. Their reckoning-days are few and far between. There is a report here that the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, Korgum, and Tesaoua, have all gone together on a razzia to the territory of Sak- katou, and a few of the people of Zinder have gone with them; and this is the reason given for horses being now scarce in Zinder. Haj Beshir has sent a message from Kuka, that I am to quicken my steps thitherward. The kafila from Mourzuk has arrived, and many Arabs from the north. Of gubaga, called by the people of Zinder, ferri, four drads are sold in Zinder for one hundred wadas, about twopence. This native cotton cloth, when doubled, makes tents impervious to the summer rain. There are about fifty Ghadamsee merchants in Kanou and Boushi, capital of Yakoba, the principal of whom (here described as Maidukia) are :— Haj Mohammed Bel Kasem. Haj Tahir. Mairimi. Haj Mohammed Ben Habsa. Hemed Basidi. Kasem Ben Haiba. Haj Ali. Mohammed Makoren. Haj Hoda. Haj Abdullah. SIEGE OF KORGUM. 273 There are some merchants of consequence from Fezzan, viz. Basha Ben Haloum, Mohammed es- Salah, the agent of Gagliufh, Sidi Ali, and Fighi Hamit, who always goes to Goujah (blad of the gour-nuts). This country of the gour is distant three months’ travelling, making small stages south- west by west. Morocco, Tuat, and the countries of the west, are scarcely represented by merchants in Kanou—there being one or two of them at most. Nor are there any from Egypt or the East. According to my informant, a small merchant, but well acquainted with these parts, not more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred slaves pass through or from Zinder annually to the north, and about five or six hundred go by the route of Tesaoua to the north, z.e. Tripoli, and a few to Souf. After all, the great slave-market is Central Africa itself. An affecting incident is told of the people of Korgum during the late razzia. The Sultan of Zinder besieged one town four days, and would not allow the people to drink water. They then sent word that “they did not know either Ged, or the Prophet Mahommed, or the Sheikh of Bornou, only him, Sarkee Ibrahim of Zinder, as their ruler and lord, and prayed him to give them water and peace.” The Sarkee replied, “ When my brother fled to you, you also would not allow him to drink, nor will I now permit you; therefore surrender into our hands.” The people of the town held out these four VOL. Il. ay 974. SLAVES IN KANOU. days, and then during a night they all fied to the rocks and escaped. There are but few places to make razzias upon around Zinder, except on the Sheikh’s provinces, unless the Sarkee will go to Maradee, and there he is now in friendship, or else is afraid to move in that direction. In the account of the booty, it is to be understood that all of it was not brought to Zinder, some having been distributed amongst the troops and volunteers of the rest of the province. I am told that the greater part of the slaves will be sent to Kanou for sale. It has already been observed, that only a few slaves go to the north in comparison with the numbers captured. The bulk of the slaves of the razzias are employed as serfs on the soil, or servants in the town. In Kanou, a rich man has three or four thousand slaves; these are permitted to work on their own account, and they pay him as their lord and master a certain number of cowries every month: some bring one hundred, some three hundred or six hundred, or as low as fifty cowries a-month. On the accumulation of these various monthly payments of the poor slaves the great man subsists, and is rich and powerful in the country. This system prevails in all the Fel- latah districts. At dusk there was a hue and ery near our house. I ran out to see what it was: the noise and stir was nothing less than an attempt of a slave to escape. The poor fellow was surrounded by a mass of men SLAVERY—THE GARDENS. 275 and boys, all anxious to seize him and deliver him to his master, to obtain the reward. My sympathies certainly begin to cool when I see the conduct of these blacks to one another. The blacks are, in truth, the real active men-stealers, though incited thereto frequently by the slave- merchants of the north and south. It must be confessed, that if there were no white men from the north or south to purchase the supply of slaves required out of Africa, slavery would still flourish, though it might be often in a mitigated form; and this brings me to the reiteration of my opinion, that only foreign conquest by a power like Great Britain or France can really extirpate slavery from Africa. 3d.—The sky never gets clear here till late at night. I read several pieces of Milton’s poetry. I went to the gardens to see the wells: people fetch water from the wells of the gardens, where the supply is sufficiently abundant. I observed in the gardens the henna plant, the cotton plant, the indigo plant, and the tobacco plant. All these appear to be commonly cultivated in the gardens of Zinder. There are scarcely any other vegetables but onions, and beans, and tomatas; but the people cultivate a variety of small herbs, for making the sauce of their bazeens and other flour- puddings. The castor-oil tree is found in the town and in the hedges of the gardens in abundance. A Tuarick woman was brought here to-day for 276 MINSTRELSY. me to cure. She had been in an ailing, wasting state, for the last four years ; the husband said that the devil had touched his wife, and reduced her to this state. Another woman was brought with an immense wen upon her abdomen. I have given away nearly all my Epsom salts, and now supply emetics. It is necessary to purge these people im- mediately, in a few hours, or they think you doe nothing for them, or will not or cannot do them any good. Many Tuaricks come from the open country. We have also frequent cases of ophthal- mia, mostly from the villages around. This evening I was charmed by the vocal sounds of a strolling minstrel, attended by two drummers with small drums, called kuru, and a chorus of singing-girls collected from the neighbourhood. The chorus-singers sang like charity-school girls at church. Altogether the singing was more pleasing than the monotonous, plaintive sounds of the Arabs. It seems difficult to get off. Everybody is mak- ing preparations for our journey, from the Sultan to the lowest slave sent from Kuka to assist in the transport of the boat and our baggage, and yet nothing is done! I parted with my new acquaintance, Medi, to- day, a soldier and slave of the Sarkee. He has been occasionally my cicerone in Zinder. He had been captured from a child, and is now past middle age, and knows little of the loss of home. He was a friendly chap, and gave me all the information he KAID OF HAJ BESHIR. Parr could make me understand in Soudanee and Bor- nouee. The evening was warm; a most pestilential sort of mist usually covers the ground at dark. After a an hour or so it clears off—a few meteors now and then. 4th, Dies non.— It is said we shall probably leave this to-morrow. Read Milton all day. Weather sultry hot; did not go out. Thermometer in the evening, at dark, 80°. 5th. — Thad a visit from a number of Tuarick ladies from the villages around, all of whom put their hands to their stomachs, and pretended they were mighty ill. I gave them all round a cup of tea. The renegade Jew came this morning, and gave mea list of all the things sold in the market of Kanou. I went in the afternoon to see the Kaid of Haj Beshir of Kuka, called Abd-el-kerim. He had a female slave afflicted with the leprosy, and sent for me to come and see her. He gave me some gour-nuts, and I found him a friendly man. Denham represents the Bornou people of his time as very fanatical. At present I have seen nothing of this. But we are in a province where there are many Hazna, or pagans; and the people of Zin- der are but lukewarm Muslims. I have yet had no instance of fanaticism, either from people of Kuka or from residents here. I was amused by the relation of Haj Moham- 278 AMERICANS AT NIFFEE. med Ben Welid respecting his intercourse with an American vessel at Niffee.* He first describes the vessel as very large; the sides being ascended by a ladder. Then these Americans (English they were called) had a black interpreter, who spoke Arabic. Through this black fellow they inquired of the man of Ghadamez from whence he came. He replied, “ Ghadamez,”—this they did not know; then “ Tra- blous,”’— this they did not know; then “ Tunis,’— nor was this place known; and, finally, “ Malta.” “ Ah!” they eried, “we have heard of this place.” They then asked him what he traded in, and gave him some tobacco and rum. ‘They were full of goods of every description, — calicoes, powder, shot, rum, tobacco, dollars, and wada yaser (a great quantity of cowries), &e. My room has been an hospital all this day, full of the sick, with various disorders. They come mostly from the villages around Zinder, and amongst them are a great number of Tua- ricks, these people being more exposed to the weather, or more delicate, or more fanciful in their complaints. These poor devils all bring some- thing —a little cheese, or a little milk; and I have received more of these trifling presents from them during the twenty days that I have been in Zinder, than in all the five or six months which I spent in their country. The reason may be, that in Asben * See the Appendix. This Haj appears to have given some useful information to Mr. Richardson.—Eb. MORALS IN ZINDER. 279 they have nothing (or next to nothing), whilst here reigns abundance. Our servants say now that the Tuaricks always bring something, and the towns- people of Zinder nothing. Some of the Tuaricks are not sick; they come only to see the Christian, and stop, and look, and stare, and watch the minutest action of the said Christian,— more especially the women, who would never leave my room if I were not to drive them away. 6th.—I am told by a well-informed person, that morals are much relaxed here. To-day a black man came from the country to beg for his wife, who had been taken away from him and given to a Moor, who was about to send her to the coast for sale. She is to be restored to the man in exchange for two young girls, whom he has fetched from the country (probably kidnapped). The woman, how- ever, has been given over, in the first place, to Shroma, the commander-in-chief; and after she has passed two or three days with him, she will be allowed to return to her husband. This woman was first kidnapped by the Sultan, and belonged to the Sheikh’s dominions, to a village near Zinder, and was taken in arazzia. The Sultan gave or sold her to the Moor. This is a sample of the transac- tions daily going on there. I am also assured that the three hundred wives of the Sarkee himself are at almost everybody’s disposal, two or three gour- nuts being the utmost which these Jadies ask. But this is not all; for these women, wives of the Sultan, 280 FASHIONS. have intrigues with the slaves of the Sultan, with the brothers of the Sultan, and even with the sons of the Sultan. Whatever may be said of the Tua- ricks and their freebooting, they do not practise such revolting immoralities as these. The Sarkee of Zinder is feared both by Fellatahs and Tuaricks, especially on account of the barbarous nature of his executions, which I have described. It may be supposed that a better system, both of government and morality, is practised in Kuka, and the more connected Bornou provinces. A man came to me to beg or buy some large beads for his wife; he said his wife was very anxious for them, to wear round her loins. Various are the caprices of fashion. Europeans show their finery, but here children and women wear beads round their loins under their clothes. It is now said we shall leave Zinder positively on Saturday next. MARADEE AND GONDER. 28] CHAPTER XVII. News from Tesaoua—Razzia on Sakkatou—Laziness in Zinder—The Hajah—Herds of Cattle—More Tuarick Patients—Gardens—My Luggage—Adieu to the Sarkee—Present from his Highness— Start from Zinder—Country—Birds—Overtake the Kashalla— —Slaves for Kanou—Continue the Journey—People of Deddegi —Their Timidity—Horse Exercise—Cotton—Strange Birds—Oc- cupation of Men and Women—State of African Society—Islamism and Paganism —Character of the Kashalla—A Dogberry—Gudde- muni—Cultivation—Beggars—Dancing Maidens. A Suereer has come here to-day from Tesaoua, and reports that Overweg left that place for Maradee about eight days since, with a Tuarick of En-Noor. The city of Maradee is but an bour from Gonder, and is about twice the size of Zinder. The whole occupation of these two cities is that of razzia, and their subsistence and riches are all derived from this source. ‘These places also swarm with Tuaricks, Kilgris, Iteesan, and Kailouees, who join the blacks of Maradee and Gouber in their slave-hunting expe- ditions. A grand razzia is being perpetrated by the united forces of the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, and Korgum, with the assistance of a thousand Tuarick horse, on the territories of the Sultan of Sakkatou. 282 INDUSTRY IN ZINDER. The cavalry of the marauders consists of some five thousand, and there are more than this number on foot. My informant says they will go near Kashna, perhaps to its very gates. So it seems the Sultan of Sakkatou, with all his power and his great cities, is unable to check, or apparently even to avenge, the depredations committed upon his most import- ant provinces. It is said that the product of this razzia will be some of the finest slaves in this part of Africa, many of them almost white. We are to leave here to-morrow. Inshailah! It is too bad to be kept so long here, when Haj Beshir has sent orders for us to come immediately. 7th—The morning was cool; thermometer at sunrise, 58°. I slept little, being angry at being kept here so long. I read Milton to divert my mind awhile from African subjects. There seems to be little industry in Zinder. The education of the greater part of the males is to fit them for razzias, and this must be considered as the principal cause of the unfeeling manner with which the blacks hereabouts look upon their cap- tive brethren. These captives are their means of livelihood ; they live on the products of the razzias, and, of course, the superior intellects with which they may come in contact countenance all their proceedings; for the foreign merchants are equally interested with them in their inhuman expeditions. Africa is bled from all pores by her own children, seconded by the cupidity of strangers. THE HAJAH—CATTLE. 283 All the Moors and Arabs whom I conversed with extol the power of the Sheikh of Bornou, and repre- sent him as the greatest sheikh in Central Africa. Nevertheless, the Fellatahs are everywhere, far and wide, from Sakkatou to Adamaua, a dominant peo- ple, though few in number compared with the popu- lation of the subjected kingdoms. One of the most remarkable women, perhaps the only remarkable woman in Zinder at the present moment, is a certain Hajah (¢.e. a woman who has made the pilgrimage of Mekka). She is a native of Fezzan, and is now employed in the household of the Sheikh of Bornou. She is excessively free and easy with all men folks; and although such a saint, her chastity, I am told, does not rate high. She returns to Kuka with us—no great gain to our caravan. Near our enclosure is a long space full of bullocks and cows—some four hundred and fifty. These are distributed amongst the whole population by ones, twos, and threes. I have seen no herd but this, and if this is really the only one, it speaks little for the wealth of the people of Zinder. In fact, with regard to horses it is much the same,—the Shereef ean hardly find me a horse to ride on in the whole town. Apparently, Zinder is a wretchedly poor place. All are needy, from the Sarkee downwards, and when they get any property it all comes from the razzias. ‘The system of living on rapine and man- 284 TUARICK PATIENTS—PALMS. stealing seems to bring its own punishment along with it. A posse of Tuarick patients assailed me very early this morning. The Tuaricks, who have more intellect than the blacks, let loose their imagination to fancy they have all sorts of complaints. Thus I have more patients from them than from the people of Zinder, and am quite undeceived as to my having done with this tribe when I entered the gates of this town. There is, however, this difference now, that they treat me with the greatest respect, and are very quiet, bringing presents instead of demanding pre- sents. The Tuaricks of Gurasu, I hear, have a bad name, and are troublesome to the Sheikh. I went to the gardens this morning and yesterday morning —it is an immense relief from the enclosure of huts in town—but have not observed anything new. Iam told that the suburbs of Kanou are full of palms. Zinder, ifthe people were industrious, could have its forests of palms, bearing luscious fruit twice a-year. But, alas! the excitement of the razzia de- stroys the taste for all rational industry. What bandit could ever setile down into a tiller of the ground? 8th.—The people came this morning, in a great hurry, to take off the luggage, and afterwards pre- tended that I should go to-morrow, whilst the bag- gage must be forwarded to-day. This arrangement I positively refused to comply with, being determined to stop no longer. FAREWELL TO THE SARKEB. 285 I went to take leave of the Sarkee. His high- ness had nothing to say, and we as little to him. We just shook hands, and that was all. He is not very well pleased with his late man-hunt. He still owes twenty thousand dollars, which it will require a dozen such speculations to pay off. The castle outside was besieged with soldiers, all lounging and listening to two or three drummers. I am disgusted to see so many idle people. The only novelty was four or five singing-women, who sung choruses inside the walls toa drummer. All the soldiers in undress, or not going on razzia, are bareheaded, and also nearly all the inhabitants of the town.