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NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE

AT THE COURT OF

MEER ALI MOORAD;

WITH

mWh Spovts in tk iallcg nf t|c |nbus.

BY EDWARD ARCHER LANGLEY,

LATE CAPTAIN, MADKAS CAVALKY.

II. II. Ml-.l'.ll .M.l SI()OR"iU.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,

SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,

13, GREAT MARLBOEOUGH STREET. .
18G0.
Hie right of Translation is reserved.

v.!

TO THE MEMORY

OF

THE ILLTSTRIOUS CONQUEROR OF SINDH,

ALIKE DISTINGIJISHED

FOR PROrOU]!^) MILITARY GENIUS,

AND

HIGH ADMINISTRATIVE ABILITIES,
> AS EXEMPLIFIED

IN HIS GOVERNMENT OF THAT PROVINCE,

THE MILITARY POLICE OF A^TIICH

HAS RECENTLY SERVED AS A MODEL

FOR THE POLICE FORCE OF CENTRAL INDIA,

THIS AVORK IS

MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED

BT

THE AUTHOR.

515S67

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.

Eapid Travelling — Semmeriug Al-p — Gratz — Ti-ieste — Meer
All Moorad — Engaged as Secretary to His Highness
— Mercantile Establishments — Opera House — Austrian
Lloyds — Commerce of Trieste — Protestant Church —
Boschetto — Hotels — Corfu — Sappho's Leap — Our Eel-
low- Passengers — Alexandria — The Consulate — Cairo —
Divine Service — Eall of Delhi — Postal Department —
Electric Telegraph — Antecedents of JMeer iVli Moo-
rad 1

CHAPTER 11.

Steamer Pekin — Mount Horeb — Bir-ool-Moosa — Hummam-
ool-Pharaoon — Royal Engineers — Islands in Red Sea —
Divine Service — Exciting Intelligence — Aden Hotel —
The Meer's Liberality — Bombay — Indian Musicians — A
Mahomedan Entertainment — Mercantile Importance of
Bombay — Su* Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, Bart. — Lord Elphin-
stoue — The Berenice — Munora — Tradition . . 32

CHAPTER III.

Appearance of Sindh — Dangers of its Coast — Its Ports —
Kurrachee Harboiu' — Mimora Light-House — Europe
Hotel — Boundaries of Sindh — Kurrachee, the Conunercial

CONTENTS.

Gate of Central Asia— Cantonments— Increase of Sea
Trade— Want of Water— Muggur Talao, or Alligator
Tank— Fight between an Alligator and a Tiger— Meer
Shah Nowaz — Navigation of the Indus — Flats for the
Conveyance of Troops — Frere Steamer — Ports on the
Indus— The Water of that Eiver— Tatta— Euins of Kul-
lian Kot — Shifting Character of the Indus — Appearance
of the Country — Jerruk 60

CHAPTER IV.

Hyderabad — Kotree — The Sindh Eailway — Dangerous Navi-
gation of the Lower Indus — Eoses of Kotree — The Com-
merce of Sindh — Native Craft — Unwieldy Boats — State
Barge of the Ameers — Wolves and JackaUs — Nara—
Sehwan — An Ancient Fortification — Lukkee Hills — Cu-
rious Petrifactions — Sehwan District, finest in Sindh —
Description of the Hill Tracts— The Alluvial Plain of
Sindh — The Great Desert — Northern Sindh — Climate of
Sindh — Diseases — Hot Winds — Lake Manchur — Lark-
hana Bunder — Sukkur — Travellers' Bungalow — A Visit
of Ceremony — Tombs — Eiver Scenery — Eoree — Bukkur
— Ghats, or Landing Places — Sindh Police Corps — Ma-
gisterial and Police Departments — Sir Bartle Frere's
Minute on the Sindh Police .... 91

CHAPTER V.

Eesldence in Travellers' Bungalow — Meeting between Lord
William Bentinck and Maharajah Eunjit Singh — Indian
Field of the Cloth of Gold— The Maharajah's Troops—
The Governor- General's Durbar — Ameer Khan — Shah-
zada Sooltaun Jan — Sacred Places — Khoajah Khizr — ^A
Popular Legend — Island of Satee, or the Seven Sisters —
Sadhoo Beyla — Tombs — Minaret of Mahomud Masum —
Educational Establishments — Books in the Sindhian
Cliaracter — -Public Garden — Judicial Administration of

CONTENTS.

Sindli — Civil and Criminal Courts — Foeticide — Fleet of
Boats 131

CHAPTER YI.

Sliikarpoor — Its great Commercial Importance — The Sudr
Bazaar — A Motley Multitude — Hindoo Mercliants —
JSTative Bills of Exchange — Decline of Shikarpoor — Ja-
cobabad — The Jakranee and Doomkee Colonies — Import-
ance of Jacobabad — Hill Campaign under Sir Charles
Napier — The HiU Tribes — Sindh Horse — War Services
of this Corps — Mirza Ali Acbar Khan Bahader — De-
parture from the North-western Frontier — Eoree — House
of a Native Gentleman — The Jooma Musgid — Allore or
Brahmanabad — Ancient Course of the Indus — Seyuds of
Eoree — Sacred Hair of the Prophet . . . 161

CHAPTEE, YII.

A Belooch Official — Arrival at Khyrpoor — Mrs Gholaum
Husseyn — The Court of Khyrpoor — Meer Eoostum —
Family Dissensions — Meer Ali Moorad — Disregard of
Beloochee Feudalism and Clanship — Dilapidated Appear-
ance of KhjTpoor — The Bazaar — Narrow Streets — Mili-
tary Establishment of the Meer — Method of Firing a
Salute — Meer Ali Moorad's Eeturn from Europe — Ee-
joicings on his Arrival — An Illumination — The Dobagha
— Beggars and Seyudnees — First Introduction into Sindh-
ian Society — Meer Khan IMahomed — A Sindhian Enter-
tainment— Beloochee Habits at Table — Camel Eiding —
Hawking — Hawks in L^se with tlie Sindhians — Sindhian
Promises — A Swearing Official — The IMeer's Stud — Pro-
jected Improvements 199

CHAPTER YIIL

Hare chased by a Hawk — A Vocal Eeveille — Hunting
Cavalcade — Afghan Greyhounds — Description of the

CONTENTS.

Moharee, or Huiitiug-ground — A Battue — The Meer's
Family — Official Misstatements — Meer Shah NowazKhan
— Meer Jehan Mahomed — The Fat Boy of the Family —
— Matrimonial Arrangements — Ladies of the Meer's
Family — Domestic Habits of the Zunana — The Toilette
— Conversation of the Ladies — The Meer's Neglect of his
Wives — Talpoor Dynasty — The Jungle — Hog-hunting —
— The Camp — Chief Commissioner's State Visit — Na-
pier's Interview with Meer Ali Moorad — Noble Charac-
ter of that General . . . ... . 234

CHAPTER IX.

Nauchee — Love of Hunting an Impediment to the Im-
provement of the Country — Baneful Influence of the
Mooktyar Kar — The Jungles — Sindh Forests — The Eu-
phrates Poplar and the Babul — Value of the Forests —
Government Demand for the Timber — Difficulty of Con-
veyance— Extensive Gardens — Poses of Khyrpoor — Pose
"Water — Luxuriance of Grasses and Peeds — The Kana —
Effect of Trees on the Climate — Moon's Influence on the
Sap of Trees — Temperature of Sindh — Fruits — Pro-
ductions — 'Indigo — Cotton — Tobacco — Preparation of
Leather in Sindh — Babul Bark — Opium — Sugar Cane —
Saltpetre — Sulphur — Alum Mines — Pearl Banks and
Pearl Fishery — Salt Beds — Agriculture — Mode of Pay-
ing Labourers — Pichness of Croj^s — Peshawur Pice —
Oil Seeds — Flax and Linseed — Paper Manufacture —
Dyes 264

NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE

AT THE COURT OF

MEER ALI MOORAD.

CHAPTER I.

Rapid Travelling — Semmering Alp — Gratz — Trieste — Meer AH
Moorad — Engaged as Secretary to His Highness — Mercantile
Establishments^ — Opera House — Austrian Lloyds — Commerce of
Trieste — Protestant Church — Boschetto — Hotels — Corfu — Sap-
plio's Leap — Our FeUow-Passengers — Alexandria — The Consulate
— Cairo — Divine Service — Fall of Delhi — Postal Department
— Electric Telegraph — Antecedents of Meer All Moorad.

I HAD just settled my family in Lonclorij
having quitted India, never intending to return,
when I was pressed by a distinguished parlia-
mentary friend to accompany him for the pur-
pose of meeting an Eastern sovereign, Meer Ali
Moorad Khan Bahader, Ameer of Sindh, in whom
we both felt an interest, and who was in some

VOL. I. 1

SEMMERING ALP.

difficulties at Trieste, on his way back to India.
Our departure from London was sudden, it
having been occasioned by a telegram from
the British Ambassador at Vienna to the India
Board, and the object of our journey necessi-
tating rapid travel, Ave lingered so little on the
way, that we reached Trieste in a hundred
and twenty-two hours, although detained by
business an entire day at Vienna.

Almost every one is now so familiar with the
principal routes from London to Trieste, thanks
to Murray's hand-books, that a minute descrip-
tion of the one w^e travelled, via Cologne, Dres-
den, and Vienna, would be superfluous ; but I
cannot forbear a passing notice of the railroad
over the Semmering Alp between the Austrian
capital and Gratz, as a wondrous triumph of
engineering skill, being carried over parts of a
mountain, where a few years ago the construc-
tion of an ordinary road was deemed impracti-
cable. The entire route, indeed, from the foot
of the Alp to the vicinity of Trieste, passes
through a succession of the most picturesque
scenery imaginable, the railway following the
course of one bright stream after another, and
those Styrian streams are perhaps the brightest

GRATZ. 6

in Europe. The fine old city of Gratz, the
capital of Lower Styria, is also in itself Avell
worthy of notice, and is the residence of many
foreigners who have been tempted there to fix
themselves by the beauty of the spot, the facility
of obtaining education for their families, and
the cheapness of living ; the latter advantage
has, however, been gradually diminishing by
the presence of strangers. Nothing indeed can
be more striking than the appearance of Gratz,
which stands in an extensive plain, from which
rises abru2:)tly a lofty pyramidal rock, precipit-
ous on all sides, upon the summit of which tow-
ers the citadel. This commands a magnificent
view of the valley of the Muhr, teeming with
grain and fruit up to the far-distant hill-sides,
which, as we passed, appeared clothed almost to
their summits with the vine and olive, witli
peaceful hamlets in every sheltered nook and
handsome chateaux on all sides. Passing rapidly
on through the same description of scenery, the
population appearing more numerous as we ad-
vanced, the smaller rivers more rapid, and mills
and factories increasing in number, — an autumn
evening closed in upon us, and we reached
Trieste considerably after nightfall.

4 MEER ALI MOOR AD.

It is unnecessary lierc to detail tlie circum-
stances that caused our journey to this city, but
sucli of our readers as have any curiosity on the
subject may gratify it by perusing a Blue Book
containing the report of a Parliamentary In-
quii-y which took place in March, 1858. Suf-
fice it therefore to say that on arrival we located
ourselves in that admirable hostel, the Hotel de la
Ville, which is, I believe, the best of the many
excellent ones in Trieste, and immediately inti-
mated our advent to His Highness IMeer Ali
Moorad, to whom we paid our respects on the
following morning. The Meer's delight at see-
ing us was unbounded, for, as he observed, " he
then knew that he had friends around him,"
and his situation had previously been gloomy
enough, his funds being exhausted, and neither
himself nor his attendants understanding any
Em'opean language. It thus became necessary
for some European gentleman, well acquainted
with Oriental languages, to accompany the Meer
back to India ; and as His Highness wished me
to accept the office of secretar}^, I was persuaded
to do so, [liaving been previously in his employ,
and feeling a warm interest for him,] on the un-
derstanding that I should bo allowed to retui'n

ENGAGED AS SECKETARY. 0

at the expiration of a twelvemonth. In fact, I
did not at all fancy the duty, for India was at
that time in a very disturbed state, and I was
quite alive to the liazard of a residence amongst
a fanatical population, many amongst whom
would consider it a meritorious act to assas-
sinate a Kafir, though the murderer should pay
the penalty of such deed by the forfeiture of his
own life, and had I been so murdered I am very
sure that tlie Meer would have punished the
murderer with instant death ; but Mahomedan
fanatics care not for consequences. It was,
however, represented to me that as the Govern-
ment were anxious for the immediate presence
of the Meer in his own country, my accom-
panying His Highness woidd be agreeable to
the authorities in Cannon Row, so I accepted
the office of dry-nurse, putting my trust in
Providence and a good revolver. Anxious,
however, as the Meer was to proceed at once
to India, we were obliged to remain at Trieste
for a fortnight, awaiting the arrival of funds
from England, tliough our stay was rendered
agreeable by the attentions of Mr Consul Ra-
ven, the Rev. Mr Collins, the English chaplain,

6 TKIESTK.

and Mr Bricc, one of the leading British mer-
chants at Trieste.

Trieste is the principal seaport of the Austri-
an Empire, and three imperial ships of war
were lying there during our stay. The city is
built on the slopes that run down to the margin
of its magnificent harbour, at the head of the
Gulf of Venice. The blue Friuli mountains
shelter it to landward, and its curved bay, seen
by the light of an Adriatic moon, is only second
in loveliness to that of Naples. The commerce
of Trieste has vastly increased since the com-
pletion of the railway from Vienna, and it
promises at no distant period to become one of
the first commercial cities in Europe, as the
trade which had passed previously through the
Baltic, now to a great extent passes direct from
Vienna to Trieste, the mercantile establish-
ments of which city bespeak its oj^ulence, the
shops being quite as handsome and well stocked
as those of Vienna. The foreign residents, who
are numerous, have established an excellent
Club ; the Opera House is a very handsome
building, and so well supported as to be able
occasionally to afford the services of first-rate

ITS COMMERCE. (

artistes from the several capitals of Europe ;
and the Austrian Lloyds' Establishment has a
world-wide reputation, only second, indeed, to
that of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam
Navigation Company,

The immense commerce of this city attracts
all nations to its port ; in fact, it may be con-
sidered a Continental Liverpool, for the Austrian
Lloyds' Company alone possesses a fleet of fifty-
eight steamers. The want of an English school,
which is still a want, would be greatly felt by
the numerous offspring of the engineers of the
Austrian Lloyds' steamers, were it not for the
benevolent kindness of their excellent pastor,
the Rev. Mr Collins, who affords them instruc-
tion. The Protestant church is a neat little
edifice, with a congregation of about eighty
persons. We learned from Mr Collins that he
is on excellent terms with the Roman Catholic
priesthood, the head of whom, a high ecclesias-
tic, having intimated his wish to be allowed
to witness the Protestant service, was invited
to attend, and expressed himself greatly pleased
with its solemnity.

The only drives about Trieste are along the
margin of the sea, and through the Boschetto,

8 THE BOSCIIETTO.

which latter is the public promenade of the
place, and every Sunday afternoon is thronged
with gay visitors from the city and its environs.
Immediately on passing the northern gate you
enter a long narrow valley, which follows the
course of a sparkling stream into tlie Friuli
mountains. Nothing can be more lovely than
this valley, its slopes on either hand being
dotted with pretty cottages and covered with
gardens. The air of this charming spot is ever
laden with the perfume of flowers, myriads
whereof fill every nook of the valley which
supplies the flower market of Trieste with its
choicest bouquets, and the bouquets of that city
possess, I think, a sweetness peculiarly their
own. The slope on the right, about a mile or
rather more in length, is called the Boschetto,
or shrubbery, which is laid out as a public
promenade in somewhat formal avenues of
beech and witch-elm, with numerous little ar-
bours a la Cremorne, and here and there a small
restaurant, with a grand cafe in the centre.
Here of a Sunday afternoon all Trieste is as-
sembled, from the highest in rank and station
to the humblest citizens, and a gayer scene can
hardly be imagined. Fine bands of music

VAKIETIES OF COSTUxME. 9

contribute to the deliglit of this music-loving
people, and all seem in their several spheres to
possess the faculty of enjoyment in an eminent
degree. Lovely women of all nations throng
the walks, attired in the latest Parisian fashions,
and perhaps the most strikingly beautiful are to
be found there amongst the dark-eyed daugh-
ters of Israel, radiant with that loveliness pecu-
liar to their race. The fair Greeks too are as
remarkable for their beauty as for the j)ic-
turesque elegance of their national costume ;
even Greek women of the lower order, with
their fine hair braided into the folds of tlieir
turbans, and their open-laced bodices and
sleeves, were strikingly attractive in appearance.
I must not too omit mention of the quaint attire
of the Styrian peasantry. That of the females
consists of a short blue skirt, with crimson bor-
der; a white bodice, and a coloured apron,
with the Styrian head-dress of white linen, the
ends falling behind trimmed with lace; mas-
sive ear-rings and neck-chain with cross ; white
stockings and high-heeled shoes with rosettes ;
which costume would make a pretty fancy dress,
or one for a village scene in an opera. Mingled
with tlicsc many varieties of costume, were

10 RESIDENTS AT TRIESTE.

Austrian officers of all arms, in every kind of
uniform, besides numerous Greeks and Turks,
with here and there " a wild Albanian kirtled
to the knee." The Albanians are certainly
splendid-looking fellows, and the national cos-
tume sets off their beauty of face and form ; the
flowing jiiManilla, buskins with golden taches,
collarless and open-sleeved jackets of velvet
wrought with gold, and handsome girdles, form
altogether a costume unmatched for taste and
elegance ; but all classes amongst the prome-
naders, whether high or low, Contadini or
Cittadini, appeared in the highest state of en-
joyment, though nothing could be more orderly
than their conduct on the occasion.

The foreign residents at Trieste mostly oc-
cupy villas outside the city, and adhere j^retty
much to their national habits; but the Tries-
tians themselves appear particularly partial to a
coffee-house life, for families, as well as bache-
lors, very generally dine at the public tables,
both to enjoy society and avoid the expense and
trouble of an establishment, although at the
sacrifice of privacy and what we English should
consider domestic comfort, which to them, how-
ever, is unknown. After dinner those who

HOTELS. 1 1

do not attend the opera adjourn to a ncigli-
bouring cafd, and during the summer months
pass their evenings chiefly in the open air.
Every cafe, and about every sixth house is a
cafi^, is surrounded of an evening by a multi-
tude of small tables, whereat their customers
are su2:)plied with ices and effervescing drinks ;
and these entertainments al fresco are attended
by ladies of the first rank and position in the
city. UjDon the whole, we found Trieste a very
agreeable halting place, thanks to the kindness
of our English friends, who introduced us as
honorary members to the club and reading-
rooms ; and the accommodation at the Hotel do
la Ville, where we resided, was all that could be
desired, unless, perhaj)s, in the item of beds, —
and German beds are the most uncomfortable in
i\\Q world, a stout gentleman finding his couch
as deficient in width, as a tall one does in lengih,
and tlic coverings are j^roportionately scanty,
so that the valedictory salutation of " fcUcc
notte Stff?ior " by the pretty camarilla who
lighted us to our rooms, was a vile mockery in
our case ; but we soon got accustomed to the
inconvenience, and all else in the hotel was the
perfection of comfort.

12 CORFU.

Here, however, I shall bid adieu to Trieste,
which place we left on the 10th October,
1857, in the Bombay steamer, a fine vessel
of 950 tons, and 400-liorse power ; and a
very pleasant passage we had along the east-
ern coast of the Adriatic ; past Dalmatia and
Albania, to Cherukeira, the capital of Corfu,
where we merely stopped to coal. The scenery
of this coast is exceedingly wild ; the hills
barren, save a scanty covering of scrubby brush-
wood. Corfu is supposed to be the isle ot
Calypso, though some attribute the honour to
Fano, others to Gozo. Further on lie the Acro-
ceraunian mountains, on the Albanian shore,
and the Ionian Sea rippled around us. At Corfu
were supposed to be the gardens of Alcinons,
and in that island blossom naturally the rho-
dodendron, almond, cypress, and olive, in the
greatest possible luxuriance. The Corfu ladles
of the upper class dress in the European style,
and dress in bad taste ; but the servant girls
continue their picturesque national costume,
their hair being braided into the folds of their
turbans, with open-laced bodices and sleeves.
St Spiridion is the patron Saint of the island,
and his body, dry as a mummy, is, I was told,

Sappho's leap. 13

paraded through the streets in a chau' on occa-
sion of great festivals; when sick people, and
especially sick children, are brought out and
placed before the Saint, in full confidence that
such mummeries will contribute to their reco-
very. The English rule seems anything but
popular at Corfu ; at least, so I judge from the
remarks of the Greek, gentlemen who accompa-
nied us to Alexandria.

After leaving the coast of Albania, and pass-
ing Cape Leucas, the scene of hapless Sap-
pho's fatal leap, we passed Ithaca on our left,
and Cephalonia, the largest of the Ionian isles,
on our right. In Cephalonia, Sir Charles Na-
pier, when appointed Military Resident of
the island, in 1822, had first an opportunity
of displaying his extraordinary administrative
ability on an extended scale. He found all
departments urgently in want of reform, and
at once set about its introduction. He con-
structed vast public works, made roads through
the mountains, introduced improvements in
agriculture by a model farm, assisted the indi-
gent cultivators with loans, opened roads to the
markets for their produce, constructed quays,
erected lighthouses, and improved the harbour,

14: OUR FELLOW-PASSENGERS.

drained marshes, cleared away ruins and opened
wide thoroughfares, strengthened the courts of
law, and organised a military police, whose
vigilance rendered them the terror of all evil-
doers. Such were some of the works that Sir
Charles Napier carried out during the period of
his government of Cephalonia. Our party was
a very pleasant one, — a nephew of Sir Lytton
Bulwer, a Bengal civilian, a Bombay officer,
late of Bashi Bazooks, and since highly distin-
guished in India, a British merchant, returning
to the Mauritius, and ourselves. We had also a
very lady-like Wallachian, a daughter of Prince
Ghika, who spoke French and Grerman per-
fectly, and two German ladies, wlio only
spoke a few words of Italian, but uttered their
'' grazias " in so sweet a tone, in return for
a chair, that one could not regret the sacrifice
for their sakes, albeit the deck was hardish.
Leaving Candia, tlie ancient Crete, on our left,
we looked our last on Europe, and early in the
morning of the sixth day were in sight of Alex-
andria.

This port is now so well known to a large
portion of the English public that to offer any
description would be absolute waste of time.

ALEXANDRIA. 15

I shall therefore state that I conveyed my royal
master to the principal hotel, and having pro-
vided for his personal comforts at once proceeded
to the Consulate, being charged with a despatch
for Mr Green, our then acting Consul-General,
to whom I feel greatly indebted for his kind
aid in having the Meer's baggage, regarding
which there was a difficulty, quickly passed
through the Custom House. The Consul-Ge-
neral moreover suj^plied me with the last news-
papers, and those from India were at the mo-
ment of intense interest, as giving the latest
news regarding the siege of Delhi. From Mr
Bethune, of the P. and 0. Steam Navigation
Company, I also received the kindest assistance,
as I was in a dilemma regarding the passage
of the Meer and suite, about whiicli no intima-
tion had been received at Alexandria, though
before leaving Trieste a telegram from London
had reached me, stating that the passage had
been engaged and the money paid. We only
remained a single night at Alexandria, which is
the most detestable place I ever was in ; for the
hotel, though in other respects comfortable,
swarmed with musquitoes, the heat was un-
bearable, and a chorus of braying asses and

1 G CAIRO.

liowling dogs banished all sleep. At Alexan-
dria a wealthy Mahomedan merchant, long set-
tled in Egypt, by name Khooda Bucksh, paid
his respects to the Meer, and did all in his
power to accommodate His Highness. With
Khooda Bucksh we left a Styrian cow, which
the Meer had purchased at Trieste for the pur-
pose of improving the breed of cattle in Sindh,
as she was unable to walk from an injury sus-
tained on shipboard. This lessened my re-
sponsibilities on the road, and they were no
trifle, from the enormous quantity of luggage
that His Highness and followers carried with
them, and the impossibility of ever inducing
any of the party to be punctual as to time.
Fortunately for us, railway officials in Egypt
are not over-punctual themselves, thus we
managed to reach Cairo without any serious
mishap. We there found my friend Meer
JafiBr Ali Khan Bahader, on his way to India,
after a five years' residence in England, where
his society was courted in the highest circles.
On the following morning I attended divine
service, which was performed by the Rev. Mr
Leader, a German missionary, in a spacious
room fitted up as a chapel. The congregation

NEWS OF THE FALL OF DELHI. 17

was small, and the minister's pronunciation of
English was so painfully indistinct, that it was
difficult to follow him ; but Mr Leader is a most
amiable and devoted missionary, greatly re-
spected by all classes and sects, and is said to
have effected much good at Cairo in the thirty
years and upwards of his residence there. Dur-
ing the day, the news of the fall of Delhi was
telegraphed from Suez, the steamer from Bom-
bay having arrived, and great was the rejoicing
amongst our countrymen, whose consumption
of Mr Shcppard's cham2:)agne, in honour of the
victory, was something prodigious. The postal
department of Egypt would not seem to be con-
sidered of much Importance, as there actually
was no post office at Cairo, but this want has,
I believe, been since remedied. The atmosphere
of Egypt is, I am told, unfavourable to the
working of the electric telegraph ; the transmis-
sion of messages being occasionally suspended.
This, it is said, generally occurs in the morn-
ing, before the sun has attained the zenith, and
is supposed to be caused by the damp arising
from the Nile, as no such interruption of com-
munication occurs between Cairo and Suez.
The railroad, which is now complete, at that

VOL. I. 2

18 MEER ALI MOORAD,

time only extended to witliln twenty-eight
miles of that port. The formation of this rail-
road has certainly supplied employment to
many thousand Fellahs or Arab cultivators, but
I doubt whether they profit otherwise by the
increased transit, as Egypt still exhibits more
squalid misery than is, I believe, anywhere
else to be found, both in the persons and dwell-
ings of the Fellahs. We quitted Cairo on the
evening of the 19th October, and found the rail-
way arrangements tolerably good and the of-
ficials civility itself I had no small difficulty
though in starting the Meer's attendants, who
had unpacked everything whilst at Cairo, but
luckily the train did not leave for an hour after
the apJ)ointed time, so nobody was left behind.
His Highness I always found extremely good-
natured and amenable to reason, but like all
princes, and especially all Eastern princes, he
fancies that the world is made for himself.
Take him, however, all in all, Meer Ali Moorad
is the best specimen of an Eastern sovereign
that I ever came across. His Highness' appear-
ance and manners are highly in his favour. For
an Asiatic he is largely built and of highly im-
posing presence. On horse-back he is seen to

HIS PREVIOUS CAREER. 19

great advantage, having a very neat and soldier-
ly seat, indeed he always looks ''every inch a
king," and his frank and hearty address is pe-
culiarly taking. Although the Meer came to
England late in life, he at once adapted himself
to English habits ; and here it may not be out
of place to give a brief sketch of the previous
career of this, the last of the Ameers. Meer
Ali Moorad, the independent sovereign of
Khyrpoor, was, until recently, the ruler of
Uj^per Sindh, and, as such, in the possession
and government of territory yielding a revenue
of about eleven Lahks of rupees per annum,
or £110,000 sterling. His Highness was the
youngest child of Meer Sohrab, who very late
in life married a young wife, and had by her
this one son, Meer Ali Moorad. On Meer
Sohrab's death in 1822, Meer Ali Moorad suc-
ceeded under his father's will, according to the
usages of his country and of the Talpoor dy-
nasty, to an immediate patrimonial possession
of considerable extent and the reversion of the
sovereignty after the death of his elder brothers.
After the demise of Meer Sohrab, his eldest
son, Meer Roostum Khan, succeeded to the sove-
reignty of Upper Sindh ; his youngest brother,

20 MEER ALI MOORAD,

Mcer AH Moorad, who was at the time only
thirteen years of age, being confided to his
care. Instead, however, of faithfully fulfilling
this sacred trust, both Meer Roostum and his
second brother, ]\Ieer Moobaruck Khan, pos-
sessed themselves of large portions of Meer Ali
Moorad's patrimonial territory, and otherwise
treated him with injustice ; in consequence of
which when Meer Ali Moorad arrived at man-
hood, feuds and disputes arose between the
brothers and their respective partisans. The
interference of the British political agent, Mr
Ross Bell, however brought about a temporary
reconciliation, but on the death of that lament-
ed officer, Meer Ali Moorad was attacked by
his brother Meer Roostum, and Meer Nusseer
Khan, son of Meer Moobaruck, then deceased,
with a view to recover certain villages, which
had been restored to Meer Ali Moorad by Mr
Ross Bell's orders. The villages were bm-ned
and several lives lost, and then Meer Ali Moo-
rad prepared to retaliate, and, assembling a
force at his fort at Dejee, marched against his
hostile relatives, whom he completely defeated
at Nownahar, a few miles to the east of Khyr-
poor. After the action a formal settlement of

HIS PREVIOUS CAEEEK. 21

differences took place by treaty entered into on
the field of battle ; by wliicli treaty, since
known as the treaty of Nownahar, and wliicli
was solemnly inscribed on a blank leaf of a
copy of the Koran, certain districts were ac-
knowledged as the patrimonial possession of
Meer Ali Moorad, and certain other districts
were ceded, in compensation for the wrongs
that he had sustained.

Shortly after this, disturbances arose inSindh,
and Meer Roostum Khan, who was then 85
years of age, finding himself unequal in those
troublous times to the cares of government,
resigned the turban or sovereignty in favour of
Meer Ali Moorad, who by their father's will
was entitled to the succession, and the rights of
His Highness to the sovereignty, and all the
territories appertaining thereto, were fully re-
cognised by the British Government. About
this time events occurred in Sindh which led to
hostilities between the Hyderabad Ameers and
our Government, but Meer Ali Moorad, relying
on the fixith of tlie treaties entered into with
himself, and the honour of the English nation,
supported Sir Charles Napier with 5000 horse,
keeping open the General's communications

22 MEER ALI MOORAD,

witli Sukker ; protecting the whole of Upper
Slndh from the hostile Beloochees ; guarding
the left bank of the Indus, and preventing the
advance of hostile tribes, who were endeavour-
ing to join the Hyderabad Ameers at Meeanee.
The highly important services that Meer Ali
Moorad rendered throughout the campaigns in
Sindh were fully appreciated by Sir Charles
Napier, who thus notices them in a despatch to
the Governor-general — " Ali Moorad's conduct
appears to have been loyal from first to last,
both to his family and to the British Govern-
ment;" and that high-minded nobleman, the
Earl of Ellenborough, G.C.B., who was then
Governor-general, in a despatch dated 23rd
August, 1843, stated that "Ali Moorad had
been a faithful ally, when his sudden and unex-
pected enmity might have been fatal to our
army." In short, in adversity as in ^jrosperity,
Meer Ali Moorad has ever been faithful to the
British Government, but, notwithstanding his
own example and advice, certain members of
his family joined the hostile Ameers, and in
consequence of such conduct their lands were
confiscated after the battles of Meeanee and
Dubba.

HIS PREVIOUS CAREEE. 23

Meer Ali Moorad, as the undoubted and re-
cognised sovereign of Upper Sindli, having
proved himself the devoted ally of the British
Government, and having forwarded the objects
of that Government, by placing at its disposal
certain territory, which it was desirous of ex-
changing with the chiefs of Bawulpore and
Jeysulmeer, in order to secure an improved
boundary of the British possessions on the Indus,
Sir Charles Napier, at the close of the Trukkee,
or Hill campaign, formally presented His High-
ness, as a reward for his services, with the dis-
tricts of Meerpore Matilda and Meherkee
(which districts were included in the treaty of
Nownahar, but had been taken possession of by
the British, on the confiscation of the lands of
the hostile Ameers), and Meer Ali Moorad was
at once installed in possession thereof. A draft
of a treaty between Meer Ali Moorad and the
British Government, by which his rights to his
territories, including the lands ceded to him
under the Nownahar and Turban treaties, were
clearly defined and secured, was prepared and
approved by Sir Charles Napier, who forwarded
it to the Government of India in I8I0 ; but,
under one pretence or other, its final ratifica-

2J: MEEK ALI MOOliAD,

tion by the Govcrumcnt was postponed until
April, 1850, wlien the circumstances hereinafter
mentioned took j)lace. During the whole of
this period, from 1843 to 1850, Meer Ali Moorad
was treated as an independent sovereign, and
our ally, and in 1850 His Highness received
a visit in state from the Governor-general of
India, who was accompanied by Mr Pringle,
the Chief Commissioner of Sindh. This func-
tionary was, as is now known, collecting evi-
dence at that very time for the purpose of impli-
cating Meer Ali Moorad in a charge of having
fraudulently introduced a page into the Koran,
containing the treaty of Nownahar, in which he
had, it is alleged, substituted the word ''Pur-
gunnali^'' meaning district, for " Deh^^'' meaning
village or town, whereby he added to the
possessions then ceded to him the districts of
Meerpore Matihla, and Meherkee, before re-
ferred to, as having been conferred by grant of
Sir Charles Napier. An accusation to this
effect had been secretly made three years pre-
viously to the Commissioner, by a man named
Shaikh Ali Husseyn, formerly Minister to Meer
Ali Moorad, w^ho had fled his dominions to
avoid punishment for embezzlement, lii^ estate

HIS PREVIOUS CAREEK. 25

having been confiscated by his injured master.
The accusation was further suj)ported by three
other persons, viz. Jokee Ram, a moonshee of
infamous character, who was at the very time a
convict undergoing sentence in a British jail ;
Peer Ali Gohur, who had been also formerly in
Meer Ali Moorad's service, and was implicated
in the guilt of Shaikh Ali Husseyn ; and Tower
Mull, another convict in the same jail. These
individuals all stipulated in writing for large
rewards, as the condition for giving their in-
formation, besides a free pardon for their past
crimes. Such was the kind of evidence pro-
duced against the unfortunate Meer, and on
which His Highness was condemned. It is un-
necessary further to dilate on this monstrous,
and, to the British authorities, most disgraceful
affair, except to state that the witnesses were
released from jail and rewarded for their valuable
testimony, whereby the Marquis of Dalhousie was
enabled to annex territory to the value of about
£80,000 a year. Thus, not only did his Lord-
ship deprive Meer Ali j\Ioorad of the district
that he is accused of having obtained by unfair
means, but he also seized upon a large portion
of the lands that he otherwise possessed. Shaikli

26 MEEK ALI MOORAX),

All Husseyn, the princij^al witness against the
Meer, did not long enjoy the fruits of his
villany, as, shortly after haying given evidence
against that unfortunate Prince, he died at
Bombay. On his death-bed he sent for Mirza
Ali Acbar, Sir Charles Napier's moonshee, to
whom he had preferred the first accusation
against Meer Ali Moorad, and then confessed
its falsehood, as thus reported by the Chief of
Police at Bombay : —

'' Ali Husseyn had been for some time sick
before the day of his death. He sent a servant
to call Ali Acbar, moonshee to Sir Charles Napier,
and I have ascertained that the following is the
conversation that took place between them : —
Ali Husseyn was apparently dying. He said
that he had sent for him to express his wishes,
as his last hour was approaching. He wished
him to see he was properly interred, as he had
very few rupees left, perhaps not sufficient. He
said that he wished the Government pension of
200 rupees should revert to his son or family,
and adding, I shall not live to enjoy it, being
the fi'uit of my villany. He then wept, and
said he was trembling at the idea of appearing
before God to answer for all the treachery

HIS PREVIOUS CAREER. 27

(nlmuck haramee) he practised towards his
master (Meer Ali Moorad). He stated that the
proofs he gave before the commission were all
forgeries, and that his and Peer Ali Gohur's
evidence was false. That in 1844 he became
an enemy of his master (Ali Moorad), and from
that date plotted all he could devise against him
with Peer Ali Gohur. Ali Acbar tried to con-
sole him with the hope of recovery, but he
replied, ^ No, I shall never recover,' and that he
feared that his present confession would do him
no good, but that God might consider it. After
this he began to ramble in his speech, but was
not insensible, and the subject appeared to be
regret and grief at the part he had taken. The
above conversation was between Ali Husseyn
and Ali Acbar, the former having ordered his
servants out of the room, and made them shut
the door. This is all that I can learn, and all,
I believe, that took place."

Meer Ali Moorad, having again and again in
vain appealed for redress to the Indian author-
ities, determined at length to visit England
and appeal to Her Majesty and Parliament for
justice, but no sooner was the Government
aware of his intention than every obstacle was

28 MEER ALI MOORAD.

thrown In lils way. He was threatened with
the highest displeasure of the British Govern-
ment, and apprized that they would prevent his
being received in England with the respect due
to his rank ; and they certainly ke])t their word,
as the Court of Directors refused their assent to
his presentation to the Queen.

Upon the news of the insurrection reaching
England, Meer All Moorad gave the President
of the Board of Control the strongest assurances
of his loyalty and fidelity to the British Govern-
ment ; and at once sent instructions to his
eldest son, Meer Shah Nowaz, who was then
acting as his representative, to place every man
and horse he could muster at the disposal of
the Chief Commissioner in Sindh ; and such in-
structions were carried out to the full satisfaction
of that functionary. Shortly afterwards His
Highness quitted England at the particular
desire of the Right Hon. Vernon Smith, then
President of the Board of Control, and in the
firm belief that his territory would be speedily
restored, as the reward of his well-proved
fidelity under the most trying circumstances.

Such is a hasty sketch of the antecedents of
Meer AH Moorad Khan Bahader, Talpoor, the

JOURNEY TO SUEZ. 29

sovereign of Khyrpoor ; and now let us accom-
pany His Highness on the journey to Suez.

The train reached tlie terminus tent at about
midnight, and tliere we found great part of the
passengers who had the preceding day arrived
at Suez. Some few were sick officers from
India, but the greater number were ladies and
children, who in many instances had barely
escaped with their lives. The supper provided
for us was not of a sumptuous quality, and, in-
deed, barely sufficient for such a host of hungry
travellers, for Egyptian fowls are the leanest
and toughest in the universe, thougli whether
this arises from the peculiarity of their educa-
tion in early chickenhood, whilst inmates of the
hatching establishment of Cairo, I cannot take
on myself to say. The vans to carry us on the
remaining eight-and-twenty miles to Suez were
announced at about three in the morning. The
first stages were accomplished propitiously, but
the last set of mules proved restive, and after a
severe fight between the coachman and his
team, the former at length gave in, and leaving
the van and its passengers to their fate, re-
turned to the station-house for more tractable
animals. Patience is not amongst the virtues

30 JOURNEY TO SUEZ.

of princes generally, and to be thus uncere-
moniously dropped in the desert, with a j^ossi-
bility of some hours' detention there, was too
much for our worthy Meer, who having re-
lieved his feelings by ejaculations in reference
to the coachman and his mules, coupled with
allusions to the female relatives of both parties,
which would hardly bear translation. His High-
ness proposed walking on towards our destina-
tion, and we accordingly started ; but the Meer
is an indifferent pedestrian, and ere w^e had
advanced a couple of miles, was completely
knocked up, and seating himself on a rock by
the way-side, declared he could walk no fur-
ther. Fortunately at that moment I descried
an object far in the distance, and before long
our van arrived at a gallop. This restored the
Meer's equanimity, and w^e soon reached the
hotel at Suez, wherein apartments had been
prepared for His Highness and suite ; and It
was well that we had made such arrangements,
as nearly two hundred passengers for India and
Australia arrived during the night, and the
hotel, albeit very large, was quite inadequate to
accommodate such a number, so that some of the
ladies, even, were unable to obtain beds on the

THE PEKIN STEAMER. 31

occasion. On tlie following morning His High-
ness embarked in the Pekin steamer, and having
seen to the safe shipment of his baggage, and
four Styrian grejdiomids, I followed in the cool
of the evening.

CHAPTER II.

Steamer Pekin^Mount Horeb — Blr-ool-Moosa — Hummam-ool-Pha-
raoon — Royal Engineers — Islands in Red Sea — Divine Service —
Exciting Intelligence — Aden Hotel— The Meer's Liberality —
Bombay — Indian Musicians — A Mahomedan Entertainment — Mer-
cantile Importance of Bombay — Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebboy, Bart. —
Lord Elphinstone — The Berenice — Munora — Tradition.

The Pekin is a most comfortable vessel, ad-
mirably found in all ways, but being one of the
second-class steamers of the P. and O. Com-
pany, and only calculated to accommodate fifty
passengers, and our numbers exceeding sixty,
we were a good deal crowded ; indeed, for the
first two or three days, some of us were obliged
to dine on deck, but additional tables being
2:)laced in the corners of the saloon, everybody
thus found accommodation. The Meer never
came to table, as he preferred having his meals
in his own cabin, which was situated near the
fore saloon, where he had all his people about
him. The commander was most obliging and

VOYAGE IN THE PEKIN. 83

liberal in the matter of supplies for His High-
ness ; in fact, he requested me to apply to the
head steward for whatever the Meer required,
and I suspect that his servants made no small
use of their master's name in procuring both
eatables and drinkables for their own consump-
tion, as the head steward and the Meer's Jema-
dar of cooks had occasional skirmishes on this
score ; however, on the whole, matters got on
pretty smoothly, and the ]\Ieer soon became
very popular amongst the passengers, with
whom he played chess, at which game no one
on board had any chance with him. Myself
and chum, Mr I , had berths in the omni-
bus cabin, a very large and airy one, but there
being eight occupants thereof, this was pro-
ductive of some inconvenience, from there be-
ing only ablutionary accommodation for two ;
however travellers, and especially overland
travellers, must make up their minds to some
discomforts. For my own part I am an early
riser, and was generally one of the first on deck,
in dressing-gown and iiaejamas^ to secure an
early turn in the bath, after which I lounged
about with a book till it was time to dress for
breakfast. Fortunately our omnibus passengers

VOL. I. 3

34 MOUNT HOREB.

were most accommodating persons, and we got
on admirably together. On the thii-d day we
passed Mount Horeb, of which we had a good
view, and here it may not be out of place to
mention that the Arabs declare that the chil-
dren of Israel crossed over from Egypt at that
part of the Red Sea opposite to the Bir-ool
Moosa, or Wells of Moses, which supply Suez
with its [very indifferent] water, and take their
name from that estimable patriarch. They
also, according to their traditions, name that
part of the Red Sea the Hummam-ool-Pharaoon,
or Bath of Pharaoh, where that monarch's host
is supposed to have perished.

Amongst our passengers we had an entire
company, one hundred strong, of the Royal
Engineers, with six officers, all very suj^erior
men, as officers of engineers generally are. The
soldiers so completely occupied the deck that it
was difficult to move from end to end of the
vessel ; but they were so orderly and well be-
haved, and the arrangements of the Pekin so
excellent, that little inconvenience resulted, ex-
cept to the poor fellows themselves, who must
have suffered greatly from the heat, which was
daily increasing. On the fourth day of our

PASSAGE DOWN THE KED SEA. 35

voyage the thermometer on the saloon stair-
case, the coolest place in the ship, was at 87° at
noon. The islands in the Red Sea are so nu-
merous that one cannot remember half of them,
but the principal are the Zebor Islands on the
Arabian coast, twelve in number, called also
the Twelve Aj^ostles, and Jubbul Teyeer, Bird
Island, a partially extinct volcano, which occa-
sionally emits smoke. On the 25th, it being
Sunday, divine service was performed by the
captain, to a congregation of fully two hundred
persons, and the accompaniment to the hymns
was played on the harmonium by one of the
officers ; I have often attended services less
pleasingly performed on shore, and the congre-
gation appeared very devout. Our passage
down the Red Sea was rather tedious, for the
Pekin is a slow vessel, but such is the only
thing against her. In approaching Bah-el-Mun-
dub^ we so closely hugged the Arabian shore, as
to have a good view of Mocho, and passed near
the long low island of Perim, the subject, a
short time since, of a much-vexed political
question.

AYe reached Aden at 1 a. m. on the 28th Oc-
tober, and one of the passengers having re-

36 INTELLIGENCE FROM INDIA.

ceived an oyerland summary of the Bombay
Gazette, was so good as to read aloud the ex-
citing intelligence it contained, to all the rest ;
and could we have been photographed as we
stood in every variety of sleeping costume, we
certainly should have made a graphic picture.
The intelligence from India was of a mixed
character, but, upon the whole, the good pre-
dominated over the bad, for though the spread
of disaffection, as evidenced in the plot just dis-
covered at Bombay, showed that no dread of
consequences, even when the cause of the insur-
gents had become apparently hopeless, would
deter Mahomedan bigots from plotting against
the lives of Christians, the fall of Delhi was a
grand triumph to British arms, and the capture
of the royal family rendered it the more com-
plete. The timely relief of Lucknow by the
gallant Havelock, announced in the same paper,
was, indeed, a most providential event. These
two highly important successes had, however,
cost us dear in the loss of two of our most dis-
tinguished generals, poor Neill and Nicholson,
but individuals must not be thought of where
the public weal is concerned !

At Aden we found the Hindoostan steamer on

HOTEL AT ADEN. 37

her way to Suez, and her coaling occupied
great part of the following day, so that the
Meer determined on landing, as did, indeed,
most of the passengers, greatly to the advan-
tage of the hotel-keeper, a Parsee. The hotel at
Aden consists of a long range of buildings di-
vided into separate rooms, with an open veranda
in front, and bathing-rooms, &c., in rear. The
floors are plastered, without even a date mat to
conceal their nakedness. Everything about
this hotel is in the most pristine state of sim-
plicity, but the place is tolerably cool, and af-
forded us shelter during the unpleasant opera-
tion of coaling. The hotel is flanked by a
shop, kept, I believe, by the same Parsee pro-
prietor, whose supplies in both establishments
were quite unequal to the demand, as the al-
most simultaneous arrival of three steamers,
crowded with passengers, had a very locust-like
effect on the provisions of the place, and every-
thing was charged for at famine prices.

Aden, supposed to be an extinct volcano, is
without exception the most barren-looking spot
I ever beheld, albeit situated in Arabia Felix !
and in looking at the mountain of cinders be-
fore me, I said to myself, what can Arabia

38 ADEN.

Deserta be like, if this, which might be taken
for the cinder-cellar of Pandemonium, can be
part of Arabia Felix? I was told, however,
that cultivation commenced at a very short dis-
tance beyond the British boundary, but as to
the port itself, there is not a shade of difference
in colour between the soil of the place and the
vast piles of coal upon the beach, awaiting ship-
ment on the steamers. Some of the passengers
went up to the cantonments, distant about five
miles, but the horses and donkeys for hire were
insufficient in number to mount all who required
them. The Meer got a barouche, which, judg-
ing from its appearance, must have been the
earliest specimen of the kind that was ever seen
in Arabia. At Aden His Highness picked up a
Hadjee, or pilgrim, returning from Mecca, whose
passage he directed me to pay, in the supposi-
tion, I believe, that the relief thus afforded to
a Hadjee would be only second to performing
the pilgrimage in person, which His Highness
had intended doing on his way back to India,
but was prevented by the necessity for his
speedy return to his own country. Our new
compagnon de voyage was, however, so exceed-
ingly unclean in his person, that I suggested

DEPAETURE FROM ADEN. 39

Ins indulgence in a bath and clean clothing
before going on board, lest he should carry
with him some of the many little entomological
specimens that had accompanied him from
Mecca, and wherewith his garments seemingly
abounded. Whether my suggestions were at-
tended to or not I cannot say, but I took care
to give my friend the Hadjee a wide berth dur-
ing the voyage.

We quitted Aden at three o'clock on the
morning of the 29th October, having been de-
tained there twenty-six hours, a monstrous waste
of time, when every moment was of importance,
for had all been ready for coaling on our ar-
rival, that operation ought not to have occupied
above one-third of the time. During our stay
at Aden, a poor serjeant of artillery was brought
on board in the last stage of liver complaint,
and died immediately on his arrival, leaving a
young widow and four children, for whom a
subscription was at once set on foot, and nearly
600 rupees were collected ; my royal master
and Meer Jaffer Ali each contributing most
liberally to the subscription, the amount whereof
was handed over to the Adjutant-General of
Artillery for the widow's use, on our arrival at

40 LIBERALITY OF INDIANS.

Bombay. Indians are truly liberal and kind-
hearted on the occasion of any such appeals to
their sympathy and assistance. By the way,
Meer Ali Moorad, on leaving England, thougli
much straitened himself, forwarded £100 to
the Lord Mayor for the Indian Relief Fund.
His Highness was in high spirits at a paragraph
in one of the Bombay papers that I showed him
at Aden, stating that his eldest son, Meer Shah
Nowaz, had just had an opportunity of display-
ing his loyalty in the capture of 25 incendiaries,
who were attempting to excite the Meer's sub-
jects to revolt against the British Government.
His Highness is really a very kind-hearted man,
and for two days that I was seriously unwell, he
appeared much concerned, and was very anxious
on my account, and expressed himself to that
effect, saying that he must be answerable for
my life to my family. Still he is a j)erfect
baby in some respects, rages like a tiger if his
dinner or breakfast be delayed, or not to his
taste, and seems to think that the regulations
of the ship must be set aside for his convenience,
should he require it. The poor Meer is above
all jealous of Meer Jaffer Ali, the Prince of
Surat, whose demeanour is most dignified on all

DEATH AT SEA. 41

occasions, but he has lived from his youth
amongst Europeans, whilst my royal master has
not had similar advantages.

A poor soldier of the Engineers was struck by
a coup de soleil just after we left Aden, and not-
withstanding the skill and attention of the me-
dical officers, he sank under it on the night we
reached Bombay. Captain Cumberland, of the
Engineers, gave up his own cabin to the soldier,
whose ravings at night were terrible to hear.
Thus our voyage from Aden commenced and
concluded with a death.

We reached Bombay on the morning of the
6tli of November, and were struck with the
beauty of the scenery around its magnificent
harbour, but this has been so often described
that I shall not weary my readers by dilating
on the subject. Immediately on our anchoring,
a moonshee, who is much in the Meer's confi-
dence, came off to pay his respects to His High-
ness, bringing letters from Meer Shah Nowaz
and his brothers. Having made arrangements
with the Custom House department for landing
that portion of the Meer's baggage which he
most immediately required, we got into a
budgerow, a large boat, with a cabin, and were

42 ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY.

speedily landed at the Bunder, a very fine pier
and landing-place of cut granite, constructed at
the expense of that princely Parsee merchant,
the late Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, Bart.

Here we found carriages awaiting us, in which
we proceeded to the Elchee ka Bungalow^ a large
up-stair house on the Baboola tank. This resi-
dence was very roomy and tolerably cool, but
swarmed with musquitoes from the vicinity of the
water. Then commenced the discomforts of Mr
I. and myself, for the house was nearly destitute
of furniture, and though arrangements were
speedily made for the Meer's breakfast and ac-
commodation, no thought was given to our
wants, so after despatching a letter to the Secre-
tary to Government, announcing His Highness'
arrival, we started for the fort, about two miles
distant, where we achieved baths, and breakfasted
at Pollumjee's Hotel. We then proceeded to
the Custom House, when having been intro-
duced to the Commissioner Mr Spooner, by Mr
Ritchie, agent to the P. and 0. Steam Company,
I received every assistance in his power to
afford, regarding the Meer's baggage, of which
56 cases that had come via Southampton, were
lying in the Custom House, in addition to

TTTE CUSTOM HOUSE. 43

some nineteen packages that his Highness had
brought with him from Trieste. Unfortunately,
however, a case containing the guns that had
caused me disquietude at Alexandria was no-
where to be found, although both the Meer and
myself had seen it upon deck just before we left
the Pekin. The examination of His Highness'
guns, on wliich we had to pay duty, was no
trifling matter, as they were upwards of twenty
in number. So many magnificent guns, all by
the first makers in England, were probably never
before im^^orted by any private individual for
his own use, and no man living can handle a
gun better than Meer Ali, whose shooting I
shall describe hereafter.

After a fatiguing morning's work at the Custom
House, I returned to the Elchee Jca Bungaloiv, so
called from having been the residence of a Per-
sian ambassador, during his stay atBombay about
thirty years ago. Some appearance of comfort
had been given in our absence to the Hall of Au-
dience, a fine room, 120 feet long, by 40 in width,
as Persian carpets had been spread, and couches
arranged about a round table. We found the
Meer in high good humour, having just dined to
his satisfaction. His Highness, who was richly

44 MEER ALI MOORAD's LEVEE.

dressed, was giving audience to some of the
principal native gentlemen of the Presidency,
who had come to pay their respects. Amongst
the nmnber was Agha Khan, the '' Old man of
the Mountain," a Persian Prince of the blood
royal, who was seated on the couch with His
Highness, and appeared to enjoy the highest
consideration. During our absence a couple of
camp cots and some few articles of furniture
had been also put into our rooms, but as His
Highness' establishment could not boast of any
appliances for the table, I proposed that we
should betake ourselves to one of the hotels and
dine at the tahle cVMte. This arrangement
being approved by the Meer, to whose native
guests our presence appeared rather a gene^ we
accordingly started for the '' Adelphi," formerly
the residence of Sir Erskine Perry, when Chief
Justice, but now a very excellent hotel. Here
we found a capital tahle dlwte, attended by
several of our fellow-passengers, and I renewed
my acquaintance with a Judge of the Bombay
Sudr Udaulut, whom I had known in London.
The thoughts of our own dreary quarters caused
us to quit this pleasant party with regret, but

BOMBAY MUSICIANS. 45

we at length got into our sliigram, a small four-
wheeled carriage in use at Bombay, and wended
our way to the Elchee ha Bungaloiv. On reach-
ing it we heard the sounds of music, if music it
could be called, and found the Meer surrounded
by a host of natives, the higher in rank seated
on couches and chairs, the inferiors squatted on
the ground. Facing His Highness were numer-
ous musicians and singers, said to be the finest
performers in Bombay. The instrumental music
consisted of a large kind of lute, on which the
singer accompanied himself, assisted by two
others, one of whom played on a kind of violin,
the other beat with his fingers a small Tom-tom,
or drum, about the size of a slop-basin. The
time was very good, and that was the only re-
deeming point in the performance. The airs
were all extremely monotonous. The compass
of the voices was very limited, and the Bombay
Mario's melody very much resembled the howl-
ing of a sliecp dog, under the influence of
cholic. However, His Highness seemed in-
tensely delighted with the performance, though
to English ears the screeching was abominable ;
but we were forced to listen to it for a couple of

46 CLIMATE OF BOMBAY.

liours, when the Meer, becoming drowsy, broke
ii]) the party, and all retired to their cots, though
I cannot say to repose, for the heat was dread-
ful, and the musquitoes made a hearty meal
on the fresh blood of the new comers. On
visiting the Meer during the process of his
morning toilet, as was my usual custom, I in-
quired which was the preferable climate, that
of Sindh or Bombay, — his answer was " Sindh
Behisht, een DozuJchy " Sindh is Paradise, this
is Hell." My o^vn after experience did not,
however, lead me to the like favourable opinion
of His Highness' countr}^.

Lord Elphinstone, the governor of Bombay,
being absent from the Presidency at Mataran,
His Highness despatched the Hid^eem Imaum
ood deen, his principal officer, a most gentle-
manly and highly polished old man, WT.tli a com-
jjlimentary letter to His Lordship, who received
the Hukeem very graciously, and expressed his
regret at being unable to receive the Meer until
his return to Bombay, as his Bungalow at
Mataran did not afford accommodation for visits
of ceremony. On the following day the Poli-
tical Secretary to Government paid his respects
to the ]\Ieer, who appeared much gratified at the

DISAFFECTION IN BOMBAY. 47

attention, but was impatient for the Governor's
arrival, to learn what stej^s would be taken
towards the restoration of his territory.

Bombay Avas at this time in an uneasy
state ; disaffection had recently been discovered
amongst the native troops at the Presidency,
and by those best informed, was supposed to
have spread considerably ; some executions had
taken place just before our arrival, and the
demeanour of tlie native population towards
Europeans was in the highest degree disre-
spectful. Although Dellii had fallen nearly two
months before, the fact was disbelieved, or the
natives professed to disbelieve it, saying, " Oh,
you told us you had taken the place before, and
that you know was a falsehood." There cer-
tainly was truth in this, as a false report of the
fall of Delhi had been some time before in cir-
culation. Fortunately for the safety of the town,
the Bombay Police had at its head one of
the most energetic and thoroughl}^ efficient
officers in India, Mr Forjett, a gentleman who
speaks several languages just as a native, and
can assume any kind of disguise. He disco-
vered the existence of a plot, having for its
object the massacre of all tlie Europeans and

48 DISAFFECTION OF THE NATIVES.

the plunder of Bombay by the sepoys and
Mahomedans, who were then to move off to
the interior with their booty. Treasonable
meetings were held, at which Mr Forjett was
present in disguise, and thus became fully
acquainted with the designs of the conspirators.
The officer commandino- one of the regriments
declared his disbelief of the disaffection of any
of his men, and would not be convinced of the
fact, until he actually saw from the adjoining
house, wherein he was concealed by Mr Forjett,
a native officer and several men of his own regi-
ment, and. overheard the discussion of their
plans. Bombay was just then, too, almost desti-
tute of European troops; but the paucity of
numbers was to a certain degree remedied by
the admirable arrangements made for obtaining
assistance from the shipping in the harbour.
Every available European sailor was held in
readiness to land fully armed, either by night
or day, on a given signal from the fort, and
such signal was known only to the commanders
of vessels.

On the very day that the plot of the conspir-
ators was to have exploded, a wing of H.M.
95th foot landed at Bombay, and this regiment

TOWN OF BOMBAY. 49

was sliortly followed by others, who were
pushed on rapidly to the front, to jom that part
of the force whose services were soon after-
wards so distinguished under the command of
Sir Hugh Rose, in Central India.

The town of Bombay is in appearance very in-
ferior to the capitals of the other Presidencies, but
far superior to Madras in wealth and commercial
importance. The Parsees, who form a large por-
tion of the community, are, I believe, the most
energetic and enterprising merchants in the
world. The Mahomedan and Hindoo merchants,
too, are many of them men of enormous capital,
which, being always employed, is constantly
increasing. Shortly after our arrival a grand
entertainment was given in honour of Meer Ali
Moorad, by one of the leading Mahomedan,
or rather Bhorah, merchants, Teyabjee Boee-
meah, whose son, Cummeroodeen Teyabjee, I
had known in London, where he was studying
the law in a solicitor's office. The old gentle-
man was moreover quite delighted at finding
that I knew his son, and was enabled to speak
very much in his favour, both as to his ability
and steadiness of conduct ; so I was of course at
once installed in his good graces. The Meer

VOL. I. 4

50 teyabjee's entertainment.

was at first rather reluctant to accept the invit-
ation, as he considered it somewhat infra dig. to
honour a Bhorah merchant with his princely
presence, but I at length induced him to go,
by telling him that Meer Jaffer Ali would be
there, and accordingly we proceeded at seven
p.m. to Teyabjee's garden, which we found one
blaze of light. The garden was prettily laid
out, with numerous broad walks, every walk
being bordered by arches of bamboo, each sup-
porting six small lamps, which in the aggre-
gate must have amounted to many thousands,
and had a pretty effect, causing the garden to
resemble Vauxhall on a small scale. Our host
receivedusat the gate, and conducted us through
his garden to a handsomely-furnished drawing-
room, brilliantly lighted by six fine lustres.
Here we found assembled about a hundred of
the principal Mahomedan and Parsee inhabit-
ants of the Presidency, amongst the number my
much-valued friend Meer Jaffer Ali, the Prince
of Surat, who has a very fine house at Bombay.
The Ka:see-ool-Koozat, or Mahomedan Judge
of Judges, a very venerable old man, was also
of the party. My royal master was received
with all honour by the assembled company, and

THE GUESTS. 51

I never saw him to greater advantage. Many
present were as richly dressed, but no one
equalled my chief in dignity of bearing ; indeed,
I have heard many, who met Meer AH Moorad
in England, declare that they never met with a
man so singularly courteous and pleasing in
manner, or possessing a clearer or more in-
telligent mind.

After a considerable pause, not less, I think,
than an hour, dinner was announced, and we
were led by our host across the garden, to an-
other large building, where we found dinner
laid in a spacious hall up-stairs, the floor of
which was covered with a white cloth, and on
that the dinner was placed. The guests kicked
off their shoes at the door, and my royal master
and the other magnates of the land were
ushered to their places by our host in person,
and sat or squatted down with their backs to
the wall. Each had before him, arranged in
two rows, about a dozen dessert plates of curries,
pillaos, and sweets, with a couple of tall glasses
of iced lemonade. Rosewater was then brought
round in a golden vessel, and each guest washed
his right hand preparatory to eating his dinner,
as knives, forks, and spoons appeared to be as

52 AN AWKWARD PREDICAMENT.

yet unintroduced amongst the black Beau monde
of Bombajj at least in their native entertain-
ments. All this time I was standing at the
dining-room door, debating with myself what
I should do, for my dress trousers having straps,
I could not well get off my boots ; in fact, so
convinced was I that the continuative parapher-
nalia would never be equal to squatting on the
ground, that I meditated a bolt into the garden
and abandoning my dinner, when just at that
moment my dear old host (may his shadow in-
crease), came to the rescue, and requested me to
walk down-stairs, where I should find dinner
laid for me on a table. And a very good dinner
I made, albeit I was somewhat puzzled how to
manage my pillao without fork or spoon; but two
bits of chupatee, or native bread, supplied the
deficiency. Had the dishes been hot, they might
probably have been good, but all was stone
cold, and I consequently cannot speak highly
of our host's cuisine. After a time I heard a
move in the upper story, with the shuffling of
feet into slippers, and we all returned to the
drawing-room, where after sitting for an hour or
so, rather ruminating than talking, for the con-
versational powers of the party did not appear

WEALTH OF BOMBAY. 53

of a high order ; TJttar and Pawn were brought
in, and taking our leave we returned to the
Elchee ha Bungalotv.

The mercantile importance of Bombay is
enormous, and appears to be every day increas-
ing ; in fact, we may consider it the grand
commercial emporium of the East, as command-
ing the entire trade of the Persian Gulf, with
much of that from Central Asia and the coun-
tries bordering on the Indus, besides all that of
the north-west coast ; and the railway and
other imj^roved communications with the in-
terior, must contribute largely to the prosperity
of this port. Bombay, from its geographical
position and local advantages, could hardly fail
to be prosperous under any circumstances, but
the main source of its prosperity seems to be
the enterprising character of its merchants.
For example, the late Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy,
Bart., who died not long since, leaving a for-
tune of £850,000, had during his life dis-
tributed from eighty to a hundred thousand
pounds amongst his relations, besides expend-
ing about an equal sum in charities and works
of public benefit ; yet this enormously wealtliy
merchant, whose charities were really bound-

54 WEALTHY MERCHANTS.

less, commenced life as a dealer in empty bot-
tles, and by industry, intelligence, and enter-
prise, accumulated that colossal fortune ; and
there are, it is said, several other merchants at
the western Presidency, both Parsee, Hindoo,
and Mahomedan, not much inferior in wealth
to the deceased Baronet. Amongst my ac-
quaintances I may also mention Juganathjee
Sunkersett, at whose gardens, which are the
finest in Bombay, I attended a very brilliant
entertainment ; but the gentleman with whom
I became most intimate was Mirza Ali Ma-
homed Khan, whom I greatly liked. The
Mirza is by birth a Persian, and fills the office
of Turkish Consul at Bombay. In habits, and
manners, and tastes, he is almost a Euroj^ean ;
indeed, he has resided some time both in Eng-
land and France. At the Mirza's house I be-
came acquainted with Sir Cursetjee Jamsetjee
Jeejeebhoy, Bart., and found in him a gentleman
of the most enlightened views, in all relating
to India. There, also, I met the Arab com-
mander of a frigate then in course of construc-
tion for the Sultaun of Zanzibar. This gentle-
man, on my remarking how perfectly he spoke
English, informed me that he had been taken

MEER ALI BUKSH. 55

to England when quite a child, and was for
eight years at the London University. He
had also been a considerable time in France
and Germany, the languages of both which
countries he spoke fluently.

Shortly after our arrival at Bombay, Meer
Ali Moorad's nephew, Meer Ali Buksh, arrived
from Poonah. This prince, although one of
the sons of Meer Roostum, appeared to be on
the most cordial terms with Meer Ali Moorad,
and is, I hear, to marry one of His Highness'
daughters, so soon as pecuniary arrangements
can be made, which match will be acceptable
to all well-wishers of the family. Meer Ali
Buksh has a strong family-likeness to his uncle,
though much smaller in stature, and wanting
that high polish of manners which so peculiarly
marks Meer Ali Moorad.

During our stay at Bombay the Meer pur-
chased some very fine horses, which cost him a
large sum, as the Arab dealers at that time
doubled their ordinary prices, on account of the
great demand for horses to mount the dragoon
regiments then on their way from England,
viz. the 3rd and 7th Dragoon Guards, 8th
Hussars, and 17th Lancers. The Meer is him-

56 VISIT TO LORD ELPIIINSTONE.

self a very good judge of a horse, according to
English ideas, which differ somewhat from those
of the natives, and though he paid high prices
he certainly got first-rate Arabs. The Bombay
people generally are great horse-fanciers, and
the merchants of that Presidency, especially
Parsees, drive the finest horses that I ever saw
in harness out of England.

Lord Elphinstone on his return fi^om Matara
at once fixed a day for the Meer's state- visit,
and His Highness was received at Government
House with the honours due to his rank ; and
though no direct promise was made. Lord
Elpliinstone assured him of the favourable in-
tentions of Government, and recommended his
proceeding immediately to Sindh, placing him-
self under the orders of the Commissioner, and
exerting himself to the utmost in the preserva-
tion of law and order in his own territory.
This was the more gratifying, as so strongly in
contrast with the harsh and unworthy treat-
ment he had experienced from the Bombay
Government on leaving India ; but all the local
authorities were then hostile to him, whereas
he returned at the recommendation and on the
friendly assurances of those high in power at

THE BERENICE. 57

home. On the following day His Highness
received a further visit from Mr Anderson, po-
litical secretary to Government, who, under
instructions from Lord Elphinstone, communi-
cated to His Highness that the war steamer,
Berenice, was at his disposal for the conveyance
of himself and suite to Kurrachee, whither she
was about to proceed. This graceful mark of
attention was very pleasing to the Meer, and
having despatched our horses and the bulk of
our impedimenta and servants in the mail steamer,

Bombay, to Kurrachee, His Highness, Mr I ,

and myself, with seven attendants, embarked
next day in the Berenice, a splendid ship of her
size.

The Berenice is one of the most comfortable
vessels I ever sailed in ; she has no poop, but
the captain's saloon is capable of accommodat-
ing with ease 30 persons at table. On either
side are three large cabins, which were occu-
pied by the Captain, Surgeon, His Highness,
two officers of the Ttli Dragoon Guards, Captain
Sydney Cotton, and ourselves. Captain Chitty
keeps a capital table, and is most liberal in all
ways. The Berenice had only then just re-
turned from the Persian expedition, and still

58 A GOOD SHOT.

carried the marks of rough usage in that serv-
ice. Her gallant commander, who bears the
highest professional character, is in manner a
frank sailor, but withal a highly polished gen-
tleman and a most agreeable companion. We
left Bombay harbour late in the afternoon, w^ere
soon out of sight of land, and as we crossed
the mouth of the Gulf of Cambay the motion
was unpleasant. On the. second day we were
in sight of the low coast of Kattiwar, which in-
creases in elevation to the northward. Passing
the headland of Dwarka, celebrated for its fine
pagodas, one "of which, visible at a distance of
twenty miles, is a prominent landmark, we
steamed along the coast of Cutch.

The Berenice is a very fast steamer, but much
to her commander's disgust he was ordered to
tow up a dredging machine, which acted as a
clog upon her movements ; however, there was
no help for it, and we had so pleasant a party
that a little delay was very endurable. The
Meer, to wile away the time, got out some of
his guns, and we had some good rifle practice
at bottles. His Highness is, without exception,
the finest shot I ever saw. On one occasion a
gentleman of high celebrity as a marksman

ARRIVAL AT KURRACHEE. 59

was backed against him. The mark was a
bottle hanging from the yard-arm, and at Mcer
Ali Moorad's request his antagonist took the
initiative, and at the first shot broke the bottle.
" Very good," said the Meer, " but I think I can
do better ; you see the bit of string by which
the neck of the bottle still remains suspended.
Now, I will cut that bit of string without touch-
ing the neck of the bottle." To the astonish-
ment of every one the Meer did so, although the
neck of the bottle was oscillating so quickly that
the string was hardly visible. On the following
morning we sighted the Munora light-house,
which marks the entrance into the harbour of
Kurrachee. The fishermen of the port have
a tradition that a venerable saint was drowned
somewhere in the eastern seas, and that the
fishes brought his body for interment to Mun-
ora, then a little sand-bank, which, after the
saint had been buried there, rapidly increased
in size, until it had attained its present pro-
portions.

CHAPTER III.

Appearance of Siudh — Dangers of its Coast — Its Ports — Kurracliee
Harbour — Munora Light-House — Europe Hotel — Boundaries of
Sindh — Kurrachee, the Commercial Gate of Central Asia — Can-
tonments— Increase of Sea Trade — Want of Water — Muggur
Talao, or Alligator Tank — Fight between an Alligator and a
Tiger — Meer Shah Nowaz — Navigation of the Indus — Flats for
tlie Conveyance of Troops — Frere Steamer — Ports on the Indus
— The Water of that River — Tatta — Ruins of Kullian Kot —
Shifting character of the Indus — Appearance of the Country —
Jcrruk.

The appearance of the coast of Sindh from
the sea is by no means attractive ; its predomi-
nant features are arid sand, bounded in the dis-
tance by the Hala mountains, a barren range
which separates Sindli from the territory of
Kelat. This coast is particularly dangerous
during the south-west monsoon, which com-
mences in June and terminates in August, and
the like remark is applicable to the entire coast of
Kattiwar and the Gulf of Cutch, as these shores
are then lashed by the whole force of the Indian
Ocean in its wildest fury. Cape Monze, at the

HARBOUR OF KURRACHEE. 61

southern extremity of the Halarange, is, in
coming from Bombay, the point made for ; a
little to the eastward of it is Kurrachee Bay ;
besides which the sea face of the Province has
four minor ports, for the import and export
of merchandise by native craft, viz. Ghizree,
Wugodur, Klietti, and Seir Gunda, but Kurra-
chee is the only land-locked harbour on the
coast between Bombay and the Red Sea, and
is the nearest safe port to the Persian Gulf.

The harbour of Kurrachee can be entered
throughout the year by square-rigged vessels of
800 tons burden, and not drawing more than
1 8 feet water, and vessels drawing even 20 feet
have entered with safety ; but tlie port is closed
during the monsoon to country craft, which are
unable to face its violence, and the traffic
between Kurrachee and the river is during the
Monsoon months carried on at the ports of
Ghizree and Wugodur.

Kurrachee harbour has been surveyed and
buoyed off. It possesses a light-house, pro-
jected by Sir Charles Naj^ier, and erected on the
highest point of the promontory of Munora, at
the entrance of the harbour, whicli is about 200
feet above the level of the sea. On a clear

62 MUNORA LIGHT- HOUSE.

night tills light is visible at a distance of fifteen
miles. The harbour is very spacious, and has
room for twenty ships of 800 tons each, and any
number of small craft. Under the promontory
of Munora, on the eastern side, vessels anchor
in security. The light-house, and all pertain-
ing to the harbour, is under the superintendence
of the port officer. A pilot and pilot-boat are
attached to the port, and a powerful steam-tug
brings vessels into the harbour, which is
becoming gradually clearer and deeper under
the effective operation of the dredging machines,
one of which the Berenice took round in tow to
Kurrachee.

We came in sight of the Munora light-house
at day-break, and I cannot say that my first im-
pressions of Sindh were favourable to "^ Young
Egypt." The port officer. Lieutenant Giles, of
the Indian Navy, came on board off Munora
Point, and His Highness and ourselves having
taken leave of Captain Chitty and his officers,
the Meer, with Pullyar Khan, a favourite attend-
ant, Mr I , and myself, left the Berenice in

the captain's barge, steered by an officer, who
landed us at the jetty near Keamaree Bunder
Custom House, a long straggling building.

ARRIVAL AT KURRACIIEE. 63

His Highness on landing mounted a horse that
was in readiness, and cantered off to a Bun-
galow that had been prepared for his reception,
situated about midway between the port and

Cantonments, Mr I and myself being

evidently forgotten in the joy that theMeer felt
at again standing on the soil of Sindh. How-
ever, we soon jDrocured a conveyance, and
directed the driver to conduct us to the "Europe
Hotel," which we found a very clean and com-
fortable abiding-place, and to myself extremely
convenient, as being close to the Meer's quarters.
Our hostess, a Belgian dame of vast propor-
tions, but showing still the remains of consi-
derable early beauty, was most kind and at-
tentive during our stay in her well-regulated
establishment, which I can strongly recommend.
Her husband, an engineer of the Indian Navy,
is a very obliging and intelligent person, and
from them both I gathered a good deal of in-
formation regarding Sindh.

Sindh Proper, styled by Abul Fazol in the
Ayeen Akbery as Sirkar Tatah, the fourth
Sirkar of the Soobah of Mooltan, may be con-
sidered as the country lying along both banks
of the river Indus, bounded on the north by the

64 KURRACHEE.

Bhawulpoor territory, on the soutli by the
ocean, eastward by the great and small sandy
deserts, and westward by the Lukkee and Hala
mountains, which separate it from Beloochistan.
The extent of the valley of the Indus may be
estimated at about 500 miles in length, allow-
ing for the windings of the river, but extremely
variable in its breadtli. Sindh is divided geo-
graphically into two principal portions, Upper
and Lower. Upj^er Sindh comprises all that
country along both banks of the Indus, from
Seliwan, northward to Bhawulpoor ; and Lower
Sindh, all that from Sehwan to the sea.

Having established ourselves in the hotel, I
visited Meer Ali Moorad, who was kindness
itself, and welcomed me heartily to his native
land. We then drove down to the port to see
after our baggage, as one of my portmanteaus
was missing, but I was lucky enough to recover
it. Kurrachee is a native town of some j^reten-
sion, but situated on the margin of a vast
swamp, which at low water can ha.dly be
healthful. This swamp is crossed by a fine
causeway of cut stone tliree thousand yards in
length ; which was projected by the conqueror
of Sindh, and of which he completed 783 yards

COMPLETION OF CAUSEWAY. 65

during bis stay in the province, but tbe Govern-
inent then tbougbt fit to stop tbis noble work ;
its value being however apparent to Sir Bartle
Frere, the late Chief Commissioner, he after
much difficulty obtained the sanction of Govern-
ment for its completion. To give an idea of
the difficulties encountered in its construction,
I need but say that in order to form a basis for
the structure, the swamp was crossed by filling
date bags, made of coarse grass, with stiff mud,
and thro win Of them in at low water. Havinsr
thus obtained a solid footing, the mole or cause-
way was constructed. It extends from the
landing-place at Keamaree Bunder to the en-
trance into the town of Kurrachee.

Sir Charles Napier, whose administrative abili-
ties were fully equal to his eminent military
talents, had been but a short time in Sindh ere
he discovered the great natural capabilities of
the country, and projected means for developing
its resources, more especially for availing him-
self of its geographical position, as the only
outlet for the produce of Upper India, the
Punjaub, Cachemeer, and that brought by the
Cafillas to Shikarporc, which has ever been a
great trading city, having extensive dealings

VOL. I. 5

66 KURRACHEE.

even so far distant as Bokhara, so that the port
of Kurrachee may now be looked on as the
commercial gate of Central Asia.

Sindh is evidently a land of much promise
in a commercial point of view, and its political
importance is undeniable. The works pro-
jected by the master-mind that conquered the
country have been mostly carried out, or are
at this moment in progress. Every step that
one takes from the Custom House inland shows
that in the Chief Commissioner of Sindh the Go-
vernment selected " the right man for the right
place," and that he had an able staff to carry
out his intentions. But to return to my descrip-
tion of Kurrachee : a straight and excellent
road past the jail, and Messrs Tuback and Co.'s
transit agency, leads direct to the cantonments,
where both civil and military reside. The
houses are good, but mostly without gardens.
The barracks for the European troops are per-
haps the finest in India. The church is a very
handsome building within, but its steeple, being
out of all proportion to so large an edifice, has
an unpleasant effect. The province finds sup-
port for two bi-weekly newspapers, which are
extremely well conducted, and have a remu-

THE NATIVE TOWN. 67

nerative circulation. The military cantonment
is a great straggling place, about five miles dis-
tant from the port, with scarcely a speck of vege-
tation about it, but traversed by good roads in
all directions. The native town, has a popula-
tion of about 50,000 inhabitants, and its clean
appearance is very creditable to the local au-
thorities. The jail, which is situated near the
native town, is a very extensive building, and
contains workshoj)s of every description. This
establishment is admirably managed, after the
system that was introduced some years ago
with much success amongst the imprisoned
Thuggs in the jail at Jul3bulpore, and it is, I
believe, nearly, if not altogether, self-support-
ing. Excellent tents are made here, and cotton
cloths are manufactured in the jail ; also vari-
ous articles in silk and worsted of every descrip-
tion, and the establishment contains such expert
smiths and carpenters, tliat very neat bullock
carriages are built here. The discipline of the
jail appears excellent, and the prisoners have a
well-fed, healthy look. Some years ago con-
siderable sickness and mortality prevailed in
the jail at Hyderabad, consequent on the issue
of bad food to the prisoners, through the dis-

68 THE PUBLIC GARDEN.

honesty of the jailors, and it was supposed that
the stoppage of their tobacco was also preju-
dicial to their health. The lower class of Ma-
homedans in Sindh are from infancy accustomed
to smoking, and however poor an individual
may be, he always has recourse to his pipe
after meals ; thus it is a necessary rather than a
luxury to prisoners. Great reforms have since
taken place in prison discipline, and the prison-
ers now receive one anna per diem subsistence
money, which is quite sufficient for the purpose.
Kurrachee has a public garden, which produces
good vegetables and flowers, but fruit is rarely
procurable, and even plantains are brought
from Bombay. On Sir Charles Napier's arrival
at KmTachee, which had then been four years
in our possession, he found the 22nd foot suffer-
ing dreadfully from scurvy, in consequence of
no vegetables being procurable. He immedi-
ately formed the Government garden, for the
support of which the Government allowed sixty
rupees per mensem, and in a very few months
the produce of the garden realized 800 rupees a
month, the soldiery being supplied gratis with
all the vegetables they could consume. The
Kurrachee Library and Museum and the Native

SEA TKADE OF SINDH. 69

General Library, are well-managed establish-
ments, and I must not forget to mention the
Kurrachee Benevolent Association, and Eu-
ropean and East Indian School, to which the
rates of admission are small, and proportionate
to the salaries of the fathers. In the commercial
line, the Delhi bank agency, Messrs Tuback
and Co., agents to the Bombay Steam Naviga-
tion and Transit Companies, and Treacher and
Co., take the lead, but numerous Parsee and na-
tive firms carry on a very extensive trade with
Bombay and the Persian Gulf, and the com-
merce of Kurrachee promises to become enor-
mous when the railway to Kotree shall be com-
pleted. Silk loongees are here manufactured
by about 30 families, and 20 more find emj)loy-
ment in manufacturing the national cap.

The sea trade of Sindh has been gradually
increasing for the last ten years; for example,
in 1847-48, the imports amounted only to
28,78,720 rupees, and the exports to 15,47,308
rupees, whilst the im^^orts for the year 1858-59,
ending 30th April, 1859,amountedtol, 08,11,012
rupees, and the exports of the same year to
1,07,81,286 rupees. Thus showing a differ-
ence in the amount of imports of nearly eighty

70 INCREASE OF SEA TRADE.

lakhs of rupees between 1847-48 and 1858-59, a
period of eleven years, and a difference in the
amount of exports exceeding ninety-two lakhs of
rupees, the particulars whereof will be found in
Table A. of the Appendix.

At the time I landed in Sindh not a vessel
had ever loaded there direct for England,
although at that very moment four French
vessels were loading there direct for Bordeaux ;
and as their commanders were residing in the
same hotel as myself, we met at dinner every
evening, and being conversant in their language,
I heard all the commercial news of the port.
These vessels were loading with oil-seeds, chiefly
" Sesame," celebrated in the story of the " Forty
Thieves," and by the Mahomedans of India
known as "Til," and called " Gingely " at
Madras. This seed, they informed me, fetched
a good price at Bordeaux, where they mix the
Sesame oil with that of olives, and export the
mixture as genuine olive oil to other countries.
Shortly after, British vessels with troops began
to arrive, and then only did English vessels com-
mence trading direct with England, and the trade
has since been gradually increasing. For instance,
in 1857-58 the value of the direct exports from

EXPOKT OF HORSES. 71

Sindh to England and France was 5,20,368
rupees, whilst in 1858-59 it amounted to
12,74,487 rupees, or one hundred and thirty-
nine per cent, in excess of that of the preceding
year, viz. to England 129 per cent, and 10 per
cent, to France. In 1858-59 the arrivals in the
port amounted to 90 square-rigged vessels and
steamers, aggregating 49,930 tons, whilst the
departures were 101, aggregating 56,554 tons.
As these direct shipments increase, so will the
commerce and agriculture of the province reap
the benefit thereof, as a material saving must be
the result of shipments direct to the countries
of the consumers, for the demand will be pro-
portionate to the cheapness of the article.

The great article of export at present is said
to be horses. These, according to Sir Bartle
Frere's report, are procurable in unlimited num-
bers from Affghanistan at £37 a head, on an
average. A greater number of horses was
brought down in 1858 than ever was known
before, arising, I imagine, from their being in
such extensive demand the preceding year, to
mount five regiments of Dragoons that were
on their way from England, and unusually
large prices were in consequence given. On my

72 EAILWAY COMMUNICATION.

arrival at Kurracliee in December, 1857, I saw
some 500 horses that were awaiting the arrival
of the 7th Dragoon Guards, but I confess they
appeared to me quite unfit for the purpose.
These horses were shortly after transferred to the
17th Lancers, and the 7th were mounted on
their arrival in the Punjaub, but I was told by
a ca23tain of the regiment they were so much
undermounted, that after a march of twelve miles
every horse in his squadron was knocked u^).
In short, the present state of the trade of Sindh,
almost every branch of which is advancing by
rapid strides, is eminently satisfactory, as its
steady progress shows that the natives feel
security and confidence in the Government.
The effect of railways and improved river
communication cannot be over-estimated, as
tending to the prosperity of the province,
and I hope to see Boydell's Traction Engine
and endless railway at once introduced into
all parts of the country where means of loco-
motion are wanting, for I consider that en-
gine eminently and peculiarly calculated to
prove serviceable in the level plains of
Sindh. In fact, it would have been worth
any money there at the time when means were

WANT OF WATEK. 73

wanting to forward on troops and stores to
Mooltan.

One of the main wants of Kurrachee is plenty
of good water ; at present it is very bad, and
gave many of our servants diarrhoea ; but that
at Kotree is far worse, the wells there being so
impregnated with salt, that this article is pro-
cured for the market by the evaporation of well
water. The project for a canal between tlie
Indus and Kurrachee is declared to be essential
to the full success of the railway to Kotree, and
it certainly is no less essential to the fair deve-
loj)ment of the resources of Kurrachee as a sea-
port, and to the agricultural prospects of the
vast and at present unproductive plains in the
vicinity of the Kurrachee market. Two years
ago the want of water was severely felt in the
city, and the population having since increased,
the want has natm-ally become more pressing.
To supply wholesome water for the troops and
inhabitants, Sir Charles Najoier projected turn-
ing the small river Mullear from a distance of
twelve or fourteen miles into the town and
cantonments of Kurrachee. For this purpose
he caused levels to be taken and a plan laid
down. The water was further to be conveyed

74 THE ALLIGATOE TANK.

by pipes to Keymaree Point, whereby the
shi^^ping would have been at once supplied with
excellent water. The facility of executing this
great work was ascertained, but though the esti-
mated cost did not exceed one thousand pounds
a mile, the Government would not sanction
such expenditure.

About eight miles from Kurrachee is the
Muggiir Talao, or Alligator Tank, the sight of
which is well worth the trouble of a morning's
canter, though the sterile aspect of the plain
through which the track lies is not particularly
inviting. The tank, which is concealed in a
thick grove, is of no great size, and at first sight
there was nothing to denote the presence of its
inhabitants. An old Faquir, who resides on the
spot, does the honours of the Muggur Talao for a
trifling consideration. On this worthy shouting
'' Ao ! Ao !" " Come ! Come !" the sm-face of the
pool became alive with alligators of all sizes,
which hastened out on the bank to be fed. The
Faquir then called out '' Baetho," " Sit down;"
and, obedient to the order, down the monsters
lay, with extended jaws awaiting their expected
reward, and a sheep having been killed in readi-
ness, large pieces of flesh were thrown to them,

ALLIGATORS. 75

for which they fought and struggled with ra-
venous fury. The sight was disgusting, and
although the Faquir declared that no danger
was to be apprehended from them, I did not
half like their looks, and afterwards learned
from the local papers that several accidents
occurred during my stay in Sindh. These
alligators are said to be held sacred by the
more bigoted natives, but as the destruction of
one of the animals was not long since condoned
for a small pecuniary donation, I apprehend
that they are really held in less veneration than
is generally supposed.

I may here mention an extraordinary fight
between a large alligator and a tiger, which was
witnessed by a friend of mine some years since in
the Nerbudda, when stationed at Gorraworra
with his regiment, the 42nd Madras Native In-
fantry. My friend was a thorough sportsman in
all ways, and described the terrific combat that
he saw between the two monsters, for so they
might well be called, both the tiger and alli-
gator being of the largest size, in this wise : —

''I was stationed with my regiment at Hus-
singabad a few years ago, and we had capital
sport of all kinds within easy access of the can-

76 SPORTING.

tonment, where having little duty to perform
after our review was over, I was almost constant-
ly in the jungle, and during the cold season bag-
ged a large quantity of hog, antelope, and
small game. In April, when the hot weather
set in, — and that is the time for sport, if you can
but stand exposure at such a season, for the hot
wind blows like a farnace blast, — I was ordered
on detachment to Nursingpoor or Gorraworra,
a mid out-of-the-way place on the Nerbudda,
surrounded with dense jungle, swarming with
tigers. No elephants being available, and the
jungle of vast extent and very thick, I could
only get at the tigers by means of a Gara^* or
by lying in wait near the spots where they re-
sorted for water ; and as all the Nullahs were
then dry, save here and there a more than
usually deep hole, which still contained a small
quantity of water, the large animals were sure
to visit such spots at night to allay their thirst.
I therefore made my Shikaree, or hunter, have
some small platforms, called Munchans, con-
structed in suitable trees, commanding those
watering-places. The previous monsoon had
been scanty, and the season, being unusually hot,

* A bullock picketed as a bait for tigers.

FISHING IN THE NERBUDDA. 77

was the more favourable for the sportsman,
and I thus managed to kill a vast quantity of
spotted deer and hog, witli several tigers, a
large bear, and three clietahs ; but it was hard
work sitting up watching, night after night, in
a Muncliau, and I dare say that I missed many
shots from sheer drowsiness, though the Shikaree
and myself watched in turn.

The Nerbudda, which when full is a fine body
of water at that place, was then for three-fourths
of its width a vast bed of sand, the stream being
only about a quarter its usual breadth ; but at the
turns in the river there were very extensive pools
of great depth, abounding with fish of all kinds,
especially that lordly fish the Mahseer, the sal-
mon of India, turtle of vast bulk, and the most
enormous alligators that I ever saw. With the
Mahseer I occasionally flirted by way of change,
and, being well provided with fishing tackle, had
good sport, but with a jungle at hand filled
with large game, I preferred the rifle to the
rod. My most favourite hiding-place was near
one of these pools, where the jungle extended
almost to the water-side, fi'om which pathways
led down to it, and those paths were well mark-
ed by the foot-prints of different animals.

78 FIGHT BETWEEN AN

There, in a suitable tree; I had a Munchan erected,
well above the pool, and commanding all the
approaches. I was snugly seated therein one
evening shortly after sunset, and had just laid
down a newly -received number of Blackwood,
when the ShiJcaree exclaimed, '■'■ Listen, Sahib I " I
did listen, and such dreadful sounds I never heard
before or since. At first they appeared to come
from a great distance, but gradually came nearer,
and the mingled roaring aud groans of a tiger
w^ere then distinctly audible. " Wliat can be
the cause of this ? " inquired I of the ^hUtaree,
" I think it is a tiger that has been poisoned.
Sahib," said my comj^anion ; '' the villagers
often poison them when they destroy too many
of their cattle." After a short time a very large
tiger appeared, foaming at the mouth, his coat
staring, and the wdiole appearance of the animal
evincing the most intense suffering. Rushing
towards the river, the tiger plunged in and com-
menced lapping the w^ater wdth greedy avidity,
as if to allay the burning fire raging Avithin
from the effects of the poison. He then came
out and commenced rolling on the ground and
biting at the bushes, seemingly in the most dread-
ful agony. A second time he dashed into the

ALLIGATOR AND TIGER. 79

river, as though about to swim across, and I was
preparing to end his sufferings with a rifle ball,
when a monstrous alligator, I should say nearly
twenty feet in length, presented itself to view,
and making a rush at the tiger, seized him in
his jaws. Then ensued the tug of war, for the
tiger at once seemed to forget his previous
sufferings, and met his antagonist with equal
ferocity. The monsters grappled with each
other, causing the waters to fly about as though
worked by the paddle of a steamer. Down they
both went — again they rose, each maintaining
his deadly gripe of the other animal. Again
they sunk, and then again they rose, but the
tiger was now evidently half drowned and
gi'eatly weakened by loss of blood, which dyed
the surface of the water, added to the effects of
the poison. Even too had the tiger been in full
strength, I doubt whether he would have been a
match for tlie alligator in the element most
natural to the latter ; but as it was lie had no
chance, for his claws seemed to make no im-
pression whatever on tlie mailed carcase of the
alligator. The tiger was at length quite
powerless, and the alligator partially raised him-
self out of the water to take his dying enemy

80 ALAEM AT KURRACHEE.

down, but in doing so laid his side well open to
a shot from my rifle, which took effect just be-
hind and underneath the shoulder, where it is
unprotected by the mail which covers his body
elsewhere. The ball passed through a vital part,
and the monster at once turned belly upwards,
being, the villagers declared, the largest alligator
that had ever been killed there. A second ball
then finished the sufferings of the tiger."

The Chief Commissioner and his staff were
unfortunately absent on duty in Upper Sindh
on our arrival at Kurrachee, but his subordinates,
both civil and military, showed every civility
and attention to the Meer, and indeed went out
of their way to accommodate His Highness, by
affording a passage for his suite in the river
steamers, at a time when those vessels were
much required for the conveyance of troops and
stores. On the day of our landing very sinister
accounts were current, and considerable alarm
was felt at a rumour that ten thousand insurgents
were advancing on Hyderabad, about a hundred
miles distant, where we had only 400 European
troops. A wing of H. M.'s 7th Fusileers was
accordingly pushed on, and a troop of Horse

MEER SHAII NOWAZ. 81

Artillery ordered to follow. The report how-
ever proved entirely without foundation.

Four days after our landing at Kurrachee, the
Meer's eldest son, Meer Shah Nowaz Khan, and
his two youngest brothers, arrived from Khyr-
poor. The former is a very handsome young
man, but his younger brothers are " fat boys."
They were attended by about a hundred
horsemen, and having marched at the rate of
thirty-five miles a day, the appearance of the
cortege was not particularly imposing. His
Highness being apprised of his sons' approach,
was evidently affected, but seemed to consider
it inconsistent with his dignity to display any
parental feeling. He accordingly seated him-
self on a couch, and gravely awaited the ap-
proach of the young princes, who hurried up-
stairs in order of seniority, and, prostrating
themselves before their father, embraced his
knees, and appeared delighted to behold him
again. The room was presently filled with the
principal of their followers, the rest rismaining
with the horses, which were picketed outside
in front of the Bungalow. I ccrtainl}^ never
saw a more dirty set of ragamuffins than these

VOL. I. 6

82 NAVIGATION OF THE INDUS.

first specimens of the chivalry of Sindh. It is
however hardly fair upon that country so to call
them, as very few of Meer Ali Moorad's re-
tainers are natives of the province, His High-
ness hardly employing any natives of Sindh in
his service. Their horses were mostly miserable
as regards appearance and condition, but these
wretched-looking creatures, as I afterwards
found, are capable of extraordinary endurance
of fatigue.

It having been decided by the Military and
Marine Authorities that the Meer's suite should
be accommodated on one of the river steamers,
which was about to take up the officers of the
Sindh Survey department, I was directed to
proceed in charge of His Highness' valuables,
the Meer travelling by land, with his sons, in
order to enjoy field sports, on his way along the
skirts of the Lukhee mountains to Sehwan. We
accordingly embarked on the Frere steamer upon
the 21st December, which put to sea at 3 o'clock
in the morning, but the weather was so threat-
ening that her commander deemed it prudent
to return, as those shallow flat-bottomed river-
steamers are not at all calculated for encounter-
ing rough weather at sea, and between the har-

FLATS FOR CONVEYANCE OF TROOPS. 83

bour of Kurracliee and the Hujamree mouth of
the Indus is not far short of a hundred miles of
sea passage. The entrance into the Hujamree
Channel is marked by a beacon and posts
showing the channel to be followed. A pilot
establishment is also maintained at Khetti for
the guidance of vessels over the bar and up the
Hujamree to that place. We reached the mouth
of the Hujamree Channel about 3 j). m., and the
Flat which we had in tow astern was then
brought up alongside. On inquiring the cause
of this arrangement I was informed by Captain
M'Neil, the commander of the Frere, that a Flat
cannot be towed astern of a steamer in many
parts of the Indus, in consequence of the sharp-
ness and suddenness of the turns, wdiich the
navigable portion of the river makes in its
course, whereby a vessel towed astern must be
continually grounded, from inability to follow
in the exact track of the steamer ahead. This
led me to ask him what he thought of Mr
Bourne's projected plan, as announced in the
newspapers. His reply was that it could not
possibly answer, as, if a single Flat could not
follow in the wake of a steamer, it w^as quite
impossible that a train of barges, on Mr

0 *

84 THE FRERE STEAMER.

Bourne's plan, could do so, and three other com-
manders, whom I afterwards spoke to on the
subject, confirmed Captain M'Neil's opinion.

The Flats in use on the Indus are large iron
vessels, built expressly for the conveyance of
troops and stores, for which they seem well
adapted. The Frere was a perfectly new iron
vessel, 164 feet in length, 28 in beam, and draw-
ing 3 ft. 9 in. water, but this was found too much,
as in places we had barely a depth of four feet.
Her saloon was large enough to accommodate
twenty-four persons, and the cabins on either
side were very comfortable. About an hour
before sunset we anchored close to the shore,
and planks were laid from the vessel to the bank,
for the natives to land and cook their meals. The
passengers' dinner was then announced and all
our party assembled. It consisted of Captain
Macdonald, chief of the Sindh Survey, his deputy,
Mr Lane and family, Lieut. Harris, of the Horse
Artillery, a young lady, Mr. — ,and myself. The
table was not over-well supplied, considering
the amount charged under the authority of
Government, viz. four rupees per diem for each
first-class passenger, half that amount for each
child under twelve years of age, and one rupee

PORTS ON THE INDUS. 85

for each child under six do. Second class Eu-
ropean passengers are allowed to mess with the
warrant officers, or, if they '23refer it, to provide
their own food.

Immediately after dinner most of the passen-
gers landed to look about tliem, whilst the
wooding of the steamer was going on. Our
rambles however were not very extended, for
there w^as little to tempt one in the apj^ear-
ance of the country; but we walked up to a
Waud, or temporary village, which with its oc-
cupants exhibited a deplorable degree of wretch-
edness, though the soil appeared a shade less
barren than about Kurrachee, and a few buffa-
loes and inferior camels were to be seen. Here
I shall briefly notice the small ports or Bun-
ders near the mouths of the Indus,

Ghizree Bunder is situated at the base of
the Clifton Hill, south-east of the town of
Kurrachee, from which it is distant about four
miles. This port offers a safe anchorage for
boats, and facilities for landing and shipping
cargo.

Wugoder is distant about sixteen miles from
Kurrachee, and is situated on Gharr Creek, one
of the tidal channels. Tliis Bunder is chiefly

86 THE DELTA.

resorted to by the river boats, wliicli, being
flat-bottomed, cannot always make Ghizree.

Khetti is the chief port on the Indus for river
and sea-going boats. Gorabaree, or Vikhur,
was formerly the port, but since 1851 has been
abandoned In consequence of the shallowness
of the water. At Khetti the want of fresh
water is also greatly felt by the inhabitants.

Seir Gunga is situated on a branch of the
river called Seir or Goongara, and is the out-
let for the produce of the Jathee Pergunnah.

Such is a general view of the ports of the
Indus, which a little below Tattah divides into
two principal branches ; between these lies the
Delta, occupying a space of about seventy
miles. The Indus pom-s forth its water through
eleven mouths, which are more or less open to
navigation, though some of the branches are at
times completely dry, and others contain so
small a quantity of water that a man can walk
across.

As we ascended the Indus its water reminded
me much of the Nile, having the same pea-
soupy look as the water of that river, being
charged with the like fertilizing matter, which
renders all lands productive wlien brought

TATTA. 87

within its influence, either naturally, or by the
canals which intersect the country in all direc-
tions. There are many points of resemblance
between Sindh and Egypt, and amongst them
that particular feature in those districts of both
which border on the Nile and Indus, the sur-
face of the country being highest on the river
banks and sloping gradually away, as though
expressly formed by nature for the purpose of
artificial irrigation.

At Tatta, sixty miles from the mouth of the
river, we stopped a short time for the purj)ose
of wooding. The town of Tatta, which was
once a considerable place of trade, is about
three miles distant from the Bunder or port.
Three of the Meer's servants here thought fit to
disobey my orders by going on shore at this
place, and were consequently left behind ; we
saw them running along the bank for some dis-
tance, but the steamer soon left them in the
rear, as commanders are prohibited from delay-
ing their vessels by stopping to pick up stray
passengers. Tatta was formerly celebrated for
its manufactures and trade, but those palmy
days have departed. Sixty years ago it con-
tained 80,000 inhabitants and kept 3000 looms

50 KULLIAN KOT.

in employ, but tlie rich fabrics of silk, cotton,
gold tissue, and embroidery, for which it was
famous, are now procurable with difficulty,
there being no demand. This city was formerly
the seat of the Mahomedan government in
Sindh, and contains the ruins of a fine Mosque,
built in the time of Aurungzeb, and in the
vicinity are the ruins of an ancient fortified
town called Kullian Kot. The excessive un-
healthiness of the climate has, I imagine, been
mainly instrumental in the decline of Tatta.

Antiquarians declare that Tatta, or Debeil, is
the ancient Pattala, simply from its being situ-
ated at the apex of the Delta, but Captain Pos-
tans justly observes, that, '' as the shifting cha-
racter of the river daily removes this town fur-
ther from the stream, two thousand years may
be fairly considered too long a period to admit
of speculation as to its position at the time of
Alexander's march." So I think but little de-
pendence can be placed on a speculation based
on so unstable a foundation. Those acquainted
with the Indus must remember two remarkable
looking rocks, which in the end of 1858 were
situated about mid-channel, at a short distance
below Tatta ; yet I was assured by the com-

SHIFTING CHARACTER OF THE INDUS. 89

mander of the steamer, that in 1850 those rocks
were so far inland as to be hardly visible ; sucli
is the shifting character of the Indus, — indeed
the sands are so continually shifting that the
lead must ever be kept going. No one could be
more watchful than our commander on this
point; but still the Frcre once touched the
ground, though she was speedily afloat again.
The navigable channel in this part of the river is
described as presenting generally the form of
a narrow gut, with abruptl}^ rising sides, the
remaining bed of the river forming a broad but
shallow expanse of water. The banks of the
Indus, like those of the Nile, bear traces of the
periodical overflow, being marked by a suc-
cession of ridges, as each layer of mud has dried
on the preceding one. There is not, however,
tliat appearance of agricultural wealth in Sindh
that the banks of the Nile and the lands adja-
cent thereto afford, though rich cultivation is
certainly to be found at a short distance from
the Indus. Above Tatta we observed much
improvement in the appearance of the country
through which we steamed ; the river became
wider, its banks higher, and some reaches dis-
played really pretty scenery, having on cither

90 JERRUK.

side vast sliikargalis, in which the finest tree
is the acacia arabica, which yields the gum
arabic. These trees are occasionally of great
size, beautiful in foliage, and exhale a delicious
perfume. Their timber is also valuable for
building and wheelwright's purposes; but on
this, and the value of acacia bark for tanning,
I shall dilate hereafter. The acacia also sup-
plies the best fuel for the steamers.

A short distance below Jerruk the mast of
the steamer Meteor is still visible above water.
This vessel struck on a sunken rock and went
down, but her engines were rescued from the
wreck, though the vessel became so embedded
in the sand, that it was found impossible to
raise her, notwithstanding that tlie water which
covered her did not exceed nine feet in depth.

Jerruk, situated above Tatta, on the same bank
of the river, is a neat, pretty town, on a com-
manding site, upon a ledge of rocky hills over-
looking the stream. This is the head-quarters
of the deputy collector of the district, and being
on a branch line of the railway, the port of
Jerruk will probably soon rise in importance.

CHAPTER IV.

Hyderabad — Kotree — The Siudh Railway— Dangerous Navigation
of the Lower Indus — Roses of Kotree — The Commerce of Sindh
— Native Craft — Unwieldy Boats — State Barge of the Ameers —
Wolves and Jackalls — Nara — Sehwan — An Ancient Fortification
— Lukkee Hills — Curious Petrifactions — Sehwan District, finest
in Sindh — Description of the Hill Tracts — The Alluvial Plain of
Sindh — The Great Desert— Northern Sindh — Climate of Sindh —
Diseases — Hot Winds — Lake Manchur — Larkhana Bunder — •
Sukkur — Traveller's Bungalow — A Visit of Ceremony — Tombs —
River Scenery — Roree — Bukkur — Ghats, or Lauding Places—
Sindh Police Corps — Magisterial and Police Departments — Sir
Bartle Frere's Minute on the Sindh Police.

Seventy miles above Tatta is Kotree, on the
right bank of the Indus, and immediately oppo-
site is Hyderabad, which was the capital of
Central Sindh during tlie government of the
Ameers.

Hyderabad, wliicli was founded by Gholaum
Shah Kalora, stands on the extremity of a range
of Limestone hills on the eastern bank of the
Indus. The fort and citadel, which last is of
great height, tower above the city and have a
picturesque appearance from the river. Tlie

92 KOTREE.

Fullailee, a brancli of tlie Indus, washes the
base of the fortress, and is bordered by
gardens, with luxuriant vegetation. The city
consists of one long street or bazaar, extending
in the direction of the Indus, which is about
three miles distant. Hyderabad is the head-
quarters of the collectorate, and its prosperity
will probably be greatly increased on the com-
pletion of the railway to Kotree. Westward of
the town are some fine tombs of the Talpoor
chiefs, containing marble fretwork of exquisite
beauty. Hereabouts stood the ancient city of
Khodabad, which some of the Sindh Brahmans
contend to have been Brahmanabad.

Kotree, the head-quarters of the Indus flotilla,
organised by Sir Charles Napier, which is com-
manded by Captain Daniell of the Indian navy,
is the upper terminus of the Sindh railway, by
which stores will be transmitted from Kurrachee
in one day to this port, for shipment on the
river steamers. At one time fears were enter-
tained for the safety of Kotree, as during the
inundations the river washed away great part of
the bank, but Sir Charles Napier caused piles
to be driven down, backed with brushwood, and
it is now perfectly secure.

THE SINDH RAILWAY. 93

There can be no doubt that this railway, which
is 110 miles in length, will exert a powerful in-
fluence in promoting the development of the
trade of Upper Sindh, as goods and produce
will be brought down to Kotree by country
boats, and there landed and at once conveyed to
Kurrachee by rail, thereby avoiding all the
difficult and dangerous navigation of the Lower
Indus, the annual losses of which are so very
large from the accidents that take place in
threading the narrow channels of the Delia, that
Major Preedy, late collector of Kurrachee,
declares in his report, " that if one or two boats
only, out of a batch of six or so, are lost, it is
considered a good venture." " This line too,"
says Mr Andrew, in his valuable work on the
Sindh railway, " will place Kurrachee, the only
seaport of Sindh, in communication with the
Indus, the great commercial artery of the coun-
tries on our north-west frontier, at a point where
the river becomes free from the intricacies,
dangers, and delays of the passage of the Delta."
This is undeniable, and the political and com-
mercial advantages which may be looked for
from this undertaking, would seem to be not at
all over-estimated in the despatches of the

94 THE EOSES OF KOTREE.

Chief Commissioner of Sindli^ and the reports
of the Engineer officers by whom the country
has been surveyed, both of which will be found
in the Appendix, marked B. C.

Kotree is an extremely pretty place, stretch-
ing along the side of the river, with excellent
roads, and very nice gardens to most of the
Bungalows. Apropos of gardens, the roses of
Kotree are especially fine, and Indian roses
possess far more fragrance than those of Eng-
land. The climate of this station is well spoken
of ])y the residents, ))ut when I was there they
were few in number. The Bungalow next to
that occupied by the Chaplain is very neatly
fitted up for the performance of divine service,
which we attended therein on the Sunday after
Christmas-day. The Hospital is a fine airy
building close to the river, and I have reason to
speak well of its management, from the atten-
tion that was paid therein to a sick servant of
the Meer, during our stay. Dr Niven, of the
Bombay establishment, is at present in medical
charge of the Indus flotilla.

The town of Kotree is particularly clean, and
its municipal arrangements are all that could
be desired. The Indus here forms a noble sheet

NAVIGATION OF THE INDUS. 95

of water, and the view of the opposite sliore is
very interesting. It is a pity that in building
steamers heretofore for the Indus flotilla, the
ojjinions of experienced commanders have not
been consulted, as the vessels last launched, the
Frere, Laivrence, cVc, are declared l)y most
of them ill calculated for the navigation of the
Upper Indus, having been built for the double
purpose of threading the narrow channels of the
Delta and getting round by sea to Kurrachee ;
but now that the river steamers will only be
required to ply between Kotree and Mooltan,
a distance of 570 miles of comparatively open
navigation, the vessels best adapted for that
portion of the Indus, — and such ought not to
exceed two feet in draught, — will of course be
constructed in future. It will not be out of
place here to give an extract from a very able
letter on the Navigation of the Indus and the
Commerce of Sindh, which appeared in the Star
of the 29th of October last under the signature
of " a Merchant :" —

" I have been for years connected with the
trade of Kurrachee, and can state that the rapid
increase in the trade of that port is without j^re-
cedent in India ; — to no fortuitous cause, says an

96 COMMERCE OF SINDH.

official paper, can this great increase be attri-
buted. It is perfectly natural, and must prove
how vast the resources of a country must be,
the export trade of which in two years has
nearly doubled itself. The illustrious conqueror
of Sindh predicted the future greatness of Kur-
rachee, whicli from its geographical position, and
other advantages, appears designed to eclipse
all other Indian ports, Calcutta alone ex-
cepted.

'' By recent advices I can assure you that
Bombay merchants are purchasing land and
erecting buildings, and making other arrange-
ments to establish branch houses at Kurrachee.

" There are besides several independent Brit-
ish merchants settled there, with whom I am in
correspondence. The price of land for building
purposes is rapidly rising, and the population is
increasing with extraordinary rapidity. By
the last mail there were in the harbour at one
time thirty square-rigged vessels from Europe
and two steamers swinging at their anchors.
The Government Indus steamers have not
financially failed, but they are ill -adapted to
their work, as any boat must be that attempts
to do what requires opposite conditions, as re-

UNSUITABLE BOATS. 97

quired in tlie sea and Delta navigation, which
Mr Bourne appears to have found to his cost.

"It is incorrect to state that Mr Andrews'
boats are similar to those of the Government.
The latter are deficient in power, and having
to perform the sea voyage from Kurrachee to
one of the mouths of the Indus, they necessarily
draw too much water, and are otherwise ill-
adapted to navigate the shallow waters of the
Indus above the Delta. It is to be borne in
mind that Mr Andrews' flotilla will neither
have to encounter the sea, nor the dangers in-
cidental to Delta navigation, as they will start
from Hyderabad, the upper terminus of the
Sindh railway, the principal object of which is
to connect the port of Kurrachee with the
Indus above the Delta, substituting 100 miles
of railway for 230 miles of dangerous sea and
Delta navigation. One of Mr Andrews' boats
was publicly tested on the Thames, and was
found to have great power, combined with a
draught of only one foot ten inches, and was
pronounced by Colonel Turner, chief engineer
of the province, and Sir Proby Cautley, to be
the best boat hitherto built for the navigation
of the north of India.

VOL. I. 7

98 AREIVAL AT KOTREE.

'' Sir John Lawrence has declared steamers
on the Indus to be one of the crying wants of
the Punjaub, and that they and the railway
would do more for the country than any num-
ber of public works that could be devised."

Coal has been discovered within a moderate
distance of Kotree, but not, I should say, of
superior quality ; at least so I judge, from a trial
of it on board the Conqueror on coming down
the river, as it threw out but little heat, and the
smell and smoke were offensive, — indeed our
commander declared that wood was far prefer-
able. As, however, the latter description of
fuel is, I understand, beginning to run short,
the newly -found coal will be of value, at any
rate, either for the railway or the steamers.

We reached Kotree on Christmas-day, and
an express having arrived directing the im-
mediate embarkation of the 7th Royal Fusiliers
in the Frere, and its attendant flat, we were
obliged to turn out, but Captain Daniell very
obligingly accommodated us in the iV^mroc?, which
is I believe the fastest vessel on the river. It
will be remembered that the Nimrod was one
of Colonel Chesney's vessels on the Euplirates
and Tigris expedition, and so small was she

DEPARTURE FROM KOTREE. 99

that we were obliged to leave some of our bag-
gage to follow on camels. In fact there was
barely room on deck for the passengers to lie
down at night, but as the weather was bitterly
cold, the crowded state of the boat was of com-
paratively little importance.

We quitted Kotree on the morning of the
29th December, having dropped some of our
passengers at Hyderabad. The Jlielum steamer
with troops was half a day's steaming ahead,
and the Frere^ with the Fusiliers, started just
after the Nimrod ; we soon, however, outstripj^ed
the larger vessel, which had a flat in tow. The
mouth of the Fullailee, in which the glorious
battle of Meeanee was fought, was pointed out
as we steamed raj)idly along, passing numerous
boats of great size, laden with Government
stores and mess supplies, that were slowly
making their way against the stream, whilst
others heavily laden with grain or other goods
for exportation were dropping down the river.
The form of these vessels has probably not un-
dergone nmch change since the days of Near-
chus, and most unwieldy affairs do they appear.
The boat in common use for transport on the
Lower Indus, says Captain Postans, is the

100 NATIVE CRAFT.

'' Dundi, which is flat-bottomed, with a sliglit
convex incHnation for the additional facility of
getting off sand-banks, as when aground it is
made to spin round on its centre by the force
of the current, whilst a completely flat-bot-
tomed boat would hold to the ground, and it
would be next to impossible to remove a heavy-
laden boat once thoroughly embedded in a soft
sand-bank of the Indus. The stern and fore-
part of the Dundi are flat and slope inwards, the
former being at a considerable angle to the
surface of the water, and somewhat higher than
the surface of the boat : there is also a slight
decrease in the breadth of its extremities ; one
of the advantages of a sloping front is the fa-
cility afforded for running in on the banks,
when required to luggao [or fasten to the shore],
or for parrying the shock when forcibly driven
on it. The rudder is very large, and shipped
as usual, or often in heavy boats by a compli-
cated system of ropes and poles, which work
outside the stern, the steersman holding both
ends of the pole, increasing his labour to a great
extent. The mast is stepped very far forward
on strong cross beams and is removable at plea-
sure : the sail is of the lightest material and

THEIR CONSTRUCTION. 101

oblong, alwaj^s placed behind tlie mast and
stretched between two thm poles ; it can only
be used with the wind nearly aft and light, for
a stiff breeze would destroy the whole tackle.
The size of these boats varies from ten to one
hundred tons : the ropes are of the coir or cocoa-
nut fibre, and from the difficulty of procuring
any large timber, the whole is constructed of
small pieces of the wood of the country, fastened
together with pegs, often of bamboo, iron being
only used to secure the ribs and knees ; so
weak is the whole affair that during the floods
it is calculated some forty or fifty boats are lost
in the lower part of the river annually. The
Dundi consists of three distinct parts, the two
sides and bottom, the latter being adjusted to
the others by warping the others up to the slope
required, and then strengthened with joints or
ribs [as they are termed], — the boat thus admits
of being dismembered and transported ; — a cor-
roboration of the accuracy of Alexander's his-
torians, who describe the same process, as may
to this day be seen on this river. The dangers
of Indus navigation to native craft are increased
by logs of wood fixing in the sand-banks and
projecting their points upwards, called on the

102 DANGERS OF NAVIGATION.

Mississippi and American rivers ' snaggs ; ' an
unfortunate Dimdi, or Zoruk, if caught by one of
these is soon a wreck.

"In tracking against the stream the rope is
passed through a hole in the top of the mast, and
then connected with the stern post ; considerable
length is allowed to permit the boat to shoot into
deep water, and on tracking near the banks,
shoals are announced by the leading tracker,
when the spare rope is given out and the boat
flies off into the deep stream. These ropes con-
tinually break, particularly in attempting to
turn points round which the stream rushes with
great force, and thus a mile or two, the best
portion perliaps of a day's labour, is lost, for it is
no easy matter to arrest the progress of a craft
when once the stream has caught her. The
number of trackers varies with the size of the
craft, but is generally very inadequate to the
work to be performed."

The same author expresses it as his opinion
that the shape of the Dundi is well adapted to
the navigation of the Indus, and were it intend-
ed to increase the number of sailing boats on the
river, the Dundi of more durable materials might

STATE BARGE OF THE AMEEKS. 103

well be adhered to. In 1853, according to an
official return, 1852 Dundis were employed on
the river, of the estimated capacity of 463,220
maunds, or 17,016 tons. There is another de-
scription of boat peculiar to the Sutlej called the
Zoruk, which is to be seen, however, all along the
Indus. It differs from the Dimdi in having: no
elevation at the stern, is rounded off a little fore
and aft, but does not taper in at those points
like the Sindh boats, and is, if possible, more
fragile in its build. In floating down the stream
the mast of the boat is lowered, and the boat
is both steered and propelled by two large
oars placed exactly in the centre of the stern,
and worked backwards and forwards by two or
more men, according to the size of the craft.
A boat will make about sixty miles per day with
the stream, but remains anchored during the
night. At Kotree I saw one of the Jumptees,
or State barges of the Ameers, an unwieldy
looking affair, about 120 feet in length, having
pavilions at either extremity, the foremost ol
which was the place of honour, as it was occupied
by the Princes during their hunting excursions.
These vessels had two masts, but when the wind
did not serve were propelled by twelve enormous

104 ALLIGATORS IN THE INDUS.

sweeps, each, requiring about twenty men. The
decks on such occasions were crowded with re-
tainers in gay apparel, and the pavilions cover-
ed with scarlet cloth, with the Ameers' standards
floating at the stern. The steersman, who occu-
pied an elevated position on the top of the stern-
most pavilion, being responsible for the safety of
his royal masters, was considered a most import-
ant personage.

As we ascended the Indus we observed
numerous alligators, or rather I should say
crocodiles, or gmTyals, not the maggur of In-
dia, as also abundance of ducks, geese, and wild
fowl, much resembling those of Egypt, and I
am mistaken if I did not see several specimens
of the Ibys. One morning indeed, just as we were
getting up om' steam, a large alligator dashed
out from under the paddle-box. Towards even-
ing we occasionally saw some gaunt wolves and
many mangy-looking jackals, ranging the
banks in quest of food. Apropos of wolves, up-
wards of 600 poor children are reported to have
been destroyed by wolves around Lahore and
Sealkote in 1855.

About thirty miles above Hyderabad we
passed Hala, a place celebrated for its beautiful

SEHWAN. 105

encaustic tiles, and finely glazed vases, bowls,
dishes, &c., made from the clay of the Indus,
the finer kinds mixed with ground flints.

At Sehwan, the capital of Sewistan, we re-
mained just long enough to take a hasty look
at that interesting old place. Here a spur of
the Lukhee range runs down close to the river,
and on its extremity, which juts over the
water, stands the town. At this place is an
old fortification, which antiquarians imagine
had its origin in Alexander's expedition ; and
Sehwan has always been considered a place of
military importance, as commanding the pas-
sage of the Indus. The country here assumes
a very different appearance to the features of
Lower Sindh, — the general character of which,
as viewed from the river from Jerruk upw^ards,
presents dense masses of trees contained in the
Shikargahs, sand-hills and lime-stone ridges,
with a scanty population. At Sehwan the
Lukhee hills extend down to the river, forcing
it into a deep and rapid channel on the eastern
side; so rapid indeed is the stream at this
place as occasionally to cause the banks to
give way, and produce serious damage. The
hills which surround Sehwan give it a very

106 THE SEHWAN DISTRICT.

picturesque aspect, and the old fort is in itself
an object of interest to the traveller. Alexander
the Great built a tower on this spot, which
commands the river, but these ruins are pro-
bably of much more recent date. The Hala
mountains are, I am told, covered with petri-
factions, which on being cut through are found
to contain marine insects, although upwards of
200 miles from the sea.

The Sehwan district is one of the richest in all
Sindh, and contains the finest wheat land in the
province, vast crops of which grain are pro-
duced in the tracts adjacent to the Munchur
lake. The town of Sehwan has a well-supplied
bazaar, and the demand is considerable in
consequence of the number of pilgrims and
Faquirs, who resort to the tomb of the cele-
brated Lai Shah Baz, a saint who seems to be
held as a favourite equally with Hindoos and
Mahomedans. The town is consequently in-
fested with religious mendicants, and is pre-
eminently distinguished for heat, filth, and
immorality. About a mile above Sehwan is a
ferry across the Indus, and, when the river is
low, good roads exist on both banks.

Northern Sindh, which extends from Sehwan

NORTHERN SINDH. 107

to Subzukcote, is almost an uninterrupted level,
tlirough which tlic Indus takes its course. Im-
mediately above the Pass of Seliwan, that great
branch of the river known as the "Narra," or
Snake, quits the main stream, and after passing
through Lake Munchur, an expanse of water
about 300 square miles in extent, again joins
the Indus at a distance of 280 miles. This ren-
ders the district the most productive of any in
Sindh, and Lake Munchur itself is especially
worthy of notice, as, according to Captain
Postans, '•' it forms a fair expanse of clear,
transparent water, lying beneath the moun-
tains and surrounded by rich foliage ; its still,
deep, central channel, tangled with lotus flow-
ers, amongst the dark plants of which rest the
small boats that form the floating habitations of
many Sindhian families, who subsist on the
fish which here abounds, and the innumerable
varieties of water-fowl that crowd its margin."
The same author also remarks that the interior
of the country between Lake Munchur and the
sea is in its general appearance far superior to
any scenery to be found on the river-banks.
The soil is hard and the roads good ; there are
occasional ranges of hills, and small lakes sur-

108 THE HILL TRACTS.

rounded with cypress-trees ; and a greater de-
gree of cultivation is to be found, but this is
only the case in the winter, or dry season, as,
after the inundation the whole country be-
comes like the Delta, a mere swamp, where
travelling is impossible, and malaria abundant.

I am indebted to an official Report for the
following description of the hill tracts, river
alluvium, and the desert : —

^^ Descrijjtion of the Hill Tracts. — The hill
tracts are outlying branches of the great range
which runs unbroken, unless for the narrow moun-
tain passes from Peshawur to Cape Monze. On
the north-western frontier they are beyond the
border. More to the southward they fringe the
districts of Larkhana and Mehur. Near Sehwan
they turn eastward and abut on the river, which
they do not leave for any great distance until
they reach the latitude of Tattah, whence they
tend towards the west and branch out into the
ocean near Kurrachee. This western region
(so much of it as falls within the boundary of
Sindh) is of singularly bare and savage aspect.
The valleys and plains rise to 1000 feet above
the Indus, while the hill ranges are from 1500
to 2000 feet above the valleys. The formation,

ALLUVIAL PLAIN OF SINDH. 109

of stratified limestone, bears marks of violent
volcanic action. The springs are mostly ther-
mal ; and are all more or less impregnated with
sulj^hur. Rain is uncertain and scanty, espe-
cially away from the coast. Pasturage, though
scattered, is nourishing, and sheep and goats
thrive among the bare hills. Horned cattle
are rarely seen, horses are in little use, and
even the camel is not common.

*' General character of the alluvial jjlain of Sindh,
and notice of the river alliivimn. — The general
character of the alluvial plain of Sindh has been
so often described that its principal features are
well known. Formed from the washings of the
mountains whence the Indus and its tributaries
take their rise, the process of formation is still
going on. As the sediment brought down by
the river is deposited in the beds of all the
streams through which the volume of the river-
water seeks its way to the ocean, these beds
gradually silt up, until the streams, unable to
find a fall along their old channels, force their
way along other depressions of country. Under
the operation of this law, the main river and
all its offshoots are perpetually changing their
courses, and thereby perpetually changing the

110 THE EASTERN BOUNDARY.

aspect of the plain. There is scarcely a mile
of land in Sindh which does not bear evidence
of the effects of this law, whose workings are
moreover distinctly visible in the beds of every
natural and artificial water-course in the
country.

'' Description of the Eastern Boimdarfj. — The
Great Desert forms the eastern boundary of
Sindh from its most northern frontier, in con-
tiguity with the Bhawulpoor state, until the
Eunn of Cutch to the southward. This waste
is variously called in different latitudes ; in the
parallel of Jeysulmeer it bears the name of that
place ; lower down it is known as the Omerkote
Desert; and on the borders of Catch it is at
present recognised as the Thurr and Parkur
Districts. Its appearance is that of a succession
of huge and stationary waves of sand, whose
slopes are to the south and westward in the
direction of the prevailing winds, while to the
north and eastward they present abrupt bluffs.
The hollows intermediate between these sand-
hills, more especially those adjacent to the al-
luvial plain, are cultivable, and constitute the
only fields of the nomadic tribes inhabiting
these wastes. "

CLIMATE OF SINDH. Ill

The climate of Sindh generally is siij^posed
to be trying to the constitution, notwithstanding
that native geograjohers declare that "Sindh is
blessed with a fine climate, tlie lower part being
cool, the upper hot, the mornings generally fresh
and invigorating." It certainly is true that the
morning air is cool, but a country so subject to
transitions of heat and cold as Upper Sindh, with
the malaria that arises from swamps for a large
j)ortion of the year, can hardly be congenial to
any constitution. The Afghans and northern
tribes have such a dread of the climate of Sindh,
that they have a proverb expressing that "the
sun of Sindh will turn a white man black, and
is sufficiently powerful to roast an egg^ The
latter is nothing more than the truth, but the
like has, I believe, occurred in Europe. Upper
Sindh, although infinitely hotter than the lower
division of the province, is more healthy, which
is attributable to the greater dryness of the at-
mosphere. The dews in Lower Sindh are ex-
cessively heavy, and exposure to them is ex-
tremely injurious to health. The inhabitants
of some of the crowded bazaars of the lars^er
towns evince, by their haggard looks, the im-
purity of the atmosphere in which they live.

112 LARKHANA BUNDER.

Dropsy and enlarged spleen are common dis-
eases, but the climate is, perhaps, less answer-
able for disease than the habits of the people
themselves. Rain is unusual in Upper Sindh ;
in fact, during the eight months I was at Khyr-
poor less than two inches of rain fell, but the
excessive heat was at times mitigated by dust
storms, which, though very unpleasant whilst
they lasted, always caused a great diminution
of heat. The hot winds are very dangerous to
those who are exposed to them, and the natives
themselves avoid such exposure as much as pos-
sible.

A short distance above Sehwan we came
within sight of His Highness IVIeer Ali Moorad's
south-western frontier, which extends nearly to
the river in the vicinity of Doulutpoor, just
north of which are the valuable districts of
Noushera and Kundiara, of which the Ameer,
as I have before stated, was most unjustly de-
prived by the British Government.

Passing onward about 110 miles we reached
Larkhana Bunder, — so called after the tribe
of Larukh,— the head-quarters of the Lark-
hana dej^uty collectorate, one of the most
productive districts of Sindh, as its cultivators

AERIVAL AT SUKKUR. 113

are the most intelligent and wealthy in the
province. The yield of corn in this district is
mainly dependent on artificial irrigation, de-
rived from the Gharr, a broad and natural
branch of the Indus, flowing through it, which
throws off several minor channels. This stream
has been recently connected with the western
Narra, and the results show the great returns
derivable from a public work well conceived
and judiciously executed, for in a single season
this new cut has paid eightfold its own cost !
The canals in the district are in thorough
order; direct roads, well bridged, intersect the
country wherever requisite. Sixty miles above
Larkhana, at a sudden bend in the stream, we
came in sight of a lofty minaret or tower, ninety
feet in height, which overlooks the town of
Sukkur and is visible at a considerable distance.
We reached Sukkur on the afternoon of the
3rd January, and bidding adieu to the Nimrod
established ourselves in the Travellers' Bunga-
low, a tolerably comfortable building, consist-
ing of a large hall, with verandahs front and
rear, and two bed-rooms, and baths on citlier
side ; the whole fitted with glass windows,
which are quite essential to comfort in a land

VOL. I. 8

114 THE travellers' BUNGALOW.

of dust-storms. The out-offices were spacious,
and afforded shelter to all our followers and the
Meer's live and dead stock. The bungalow
was in charge of a Portuguese butler, whom we
always found obliging when sober, but unluck-
ily he was generally in his cups towards even-
ing, when he quarrelled and fought with our
own major domo, albeit a Portuguese of Goa,
like himself On the morning after our arrival
we had a visit of ceremony from the son and
Goomashtah of Hote Singh, the Meer's con-
fidential man in pecuniary matters. Those
worthies brought the usual offering of sweet-
meats, fruit, &c., and were very obliging; at
my request they despatched a Sarnee Sowar^ or
camel hurkai'U; as we should style him in India,
in search of the Meer, to whom I wrote for in-
structions regarding his servants. Three days
afterwards a Persian letter arrived from His
Highness' Mooktyar Kar, or minister, request-
ing me to let him know the number of boats,
camels, horses, and carts I should require for
His Highness' servants, one of whom had
brought out an English wife. These being sup-
plied, the people embarked in two large boats
of the Indus, which dropped down the stream

THE CANTONMENTS. 115

to Naucliee, about fom- miles below, on the
opposite bank, whence they were conveyed to
Kliyrpoor, about eighteen miles distant in a
south-westerly direction.

Sukkur, or, as the natives call it, Xew Sulsiur,
to distinguish it from the old town, about a mile
higher up, is a flourishing place on the right
bank of the Indus, with about 14,000 inhabit-
ants, and its importance is fast increasing with
the increased traffic on the river, to which the
Bazaar runs parallel. On the high ground
commanding the passage of the Indus are the
cantonments, where at one time a very large
British force was concentrated, though when I
was at Sukkur a Belooch battalion and a de-
tachment of the Police Corps were the only
troops. As a station, Suliur is one of the most
dreary looking places I ever saw ; the bazaar
certainly exhibits symptoms of vitality, but on
the elevated ground above nothing can be seen
but rocky mounds and ridges, on which are
generally empty bungalows, constructed in most
instances out of ancient tombs ; and the said
bungalows, being generally in a very ruinous
condition, have a most cheerless aspect, whilst
more distant on the heights are long ranges of

116 RIVER SCENERY AT SUKKUR.

empty barracks, that increase the desolate as-
pect of the scene. In contrast however to this,
the river scenery at Sukkur is superior to any
that I saw elsewhere in Sindh. High on the
opposite bank, and overhanging the Indus,
stands the picturesque old town of Roree, which
was formerly a place of commercial importance.
Nearly opposite Roree, in the centre of the river,
on a high rocky island, which seems as if it had
been cut off from the eastern bank by the action
of the stream, is the old fort of Bukkur, a
fortress that was much prized by the Ameers,
who considered it the key to Sindh, and per-
fectly impregnable, which it possibly might have
been to Sindliian assailants, though its crumb-
ling walls, which are commanded from both
banks, could not offer any resistance to Euro-
pean artillery. Betw^een Bukkur and Roree
the mighty stream of the Indus, being pent into
a narrow channel between two almost perpen-
dicular walls of rock, rushes with such intense
velocity, that when the river is at its height the
channel is impracticable for steamers, one of
which was nearly lost in attempting it, and the
depth is so great that the vessel had not
chain cable enou!2:h to reach the bottom. The

EECENT IMPROVEMENTS. 117

native boatmen say that there is '' a depth of
forty men " in the channel. Extending south-
ward from Roree, the bank is clothed with fine
gardens of pomegranate, orange, and other fruit
trees, to the town of Bubburloo, which belongs
to His Highness Meer Ali Moorad, whose terri-
tory commences there. The branch of the river,
westward of Bukkur, is too shallow for steamers
to pass through, and when I came down in Sep-
tember, 1858, the river being then nearly at the
highest, the steamer from Mooltan disembarked
its passengers about a mile above, who, with
their baggage, embarked in the large steamer
awaiting their arrival at New Sukkur, below the
dangerous rapid of Roree.

Along the right bank of the river stand the
houses of civil and military officers, and near the
official residence of the Superintendent of boats
and Freight Agent, is the Ghat where the steam-
ers of the Indus flotilla anchor during their stay
at Sukkur. Great imj^rovements have been
made at this ^^lace in the last two years, espe-
cially in the construction of fine Ghats, or land-
ing-places, of cut stone, along the bank of the
river, and the formation of excellent roads
throughout the station. The efficiency of the

118 THE SINDH POLICE.

conservative arrangements at Sukkur is highly
creditable to the local authorities. The streets
are kept admirably clean. Roads are laid out
and excavations filled up, tending greatly to
public health in crowded localities. The Sindh
police is, without exception, the best in India ;
and here it may not be out of place to give a
brief description of that body, which has served
as a model for the recently established military
police in central India.

The Sindh police is composed of horse, foot,
and camel Sowars, all on a military organiz-
ation. The horse and camel Sowars are sta-
tioned at Thannahs, or posts, throughout the
entire province, and are constantly engaged in
patrolling the country ; the duty of the camel
Sowars being principally confined to those dis-
tricts bordering on the Desert, where, fi^om the
nature of the soil, the camel is found greatly
superior to the horse. Tlie infantry are com-
posed of the rural and city police. The
mounted police number 1074 Sowars. This
body is organised and uniformly equipped
as a regiment of irregular cavalry, the Sowars
being armed with light single-barrelled per-
cussion carbines and sabres. One hundred

THEIR ORGANIZATION. 119

of the Jackranee and Cliandia tribes serve in tlie
police force on the north-western frontier. These
men are allowed to wear the costume of their
respective tribes, and carry sword, shield, and
matchlock, to encourage the border tribes to take
service in the force. The Jackranees and Chan-
dias are, of a truth, the wildest and dirtiest look-
ing warriors that I ever came across ; but their
fidelity to their salt has been most exemplary.
Every Sowar carries a pair of handcuffs for the
purpose of securing his prisoner. The camel
Sowars number 95. The rural police are 2422
in number, and constitute a body of infantry,
drilled, clothed, and equipped like a regiment of
the line. They furnish the civil guards at head-
quarter stations, jails and treasuries, and trea-
sure escorts, when required. The city police
number 486 men, armed with swords and staves,
besides matchlocks when requisite. To this
body are attached those most useful men the
Puggees, or trackers, whose extraordinary ex-
ploits in the pursuit of robbers I shall notice
hereafter.

The entire police of Sindh is under the com-
mand of a captain of police, who communicates
direct with the Commissioner, and has under

120 THE JACKKANEE HORSE.

him in each Zillah a lieutenant of poHce, in im-
mediate command of the police of that district.
The functions of the magisterial and police de-
partments are entirely distinct, the latter being
wholly executive. The captain of police has
power to inflict two years' imprisonment ; liis
lieutenants one year's imprisonment, with fine or
flogging ; but these powers are only exercised on
the men under their respective control. Tiie
Sindh police, which was originally organized by
Sir Charles Napier, has been found to work so
admirably that little alteration or modification
has been made in the original constitution of
that body, and the continued internal peace of
the country is mainly attributable to its active
exertions. The total number of police stations
in the three Zillahs is 208. Besides the regular
police, the Jackranee and Chandia horse con-
sist of four Jemadars at 25 rupees each, and
100 Sowars at 15 rupees each, under the orders
of the Political Superintendent of the north-west
frontier, and by these men the entire police
duties of the frontier districts are performed.
This body was formed principally for the pur-
pose of turning freebooters into honest men, by
giving them employment under Government ;

MOUNTED POLICE. 121

and the Jackranee horse have fully answered
the expectations formed on their being taken
into the service. In the Thur and Parkur dis-
tricts there is also a body of Kosah horse and
foot, but they are considered as political pen-
sioners. The mounted police, if required, would
form a body of useful irregular cavalry, being
efficiently mounted and well armed. The Sowars
are continually to be seen moving about the
country, and are the especial terror of all evil
doers. In 184:7 a small detachment of the
mounted police, under Captain Younghusband,
fell in with a large body of Bhoogtees near Kus-
more, and at once going at them, sword in hand,
cut down twenty-eight, and captured twenty-
seven of their number. The marches made by
the mounted police were on some occasions most
extraordinary. A detachment of these admir-
able troops, with some Irregular Cavalry, and
DmTiahKhan with some Jackranee horse, march-
ed two hundred miles in tliree days in pursuit
of the Kulpoor Bhoogtees, yet the robbers
escaped.

The fidelity of the rural police was effec-
tually tested at Kurrachee in 1857, when it
became necessary to disarm the 21st Native

122 SIR B.

Infantry, some of wliose men had endeavoured
to tamper with the men of the police.

Sir Bartle Frere's minute on the subject of
the Sindh police so fully bears out the opinions
of Sir Charles Napier, that I am induced to give
the following lengthy extract therefrom : —

'^ Sir Charles' leading idea appears to have
been, effectually to separate the police from the
magisterial functions, confining the police to the
duty of preventing or detecting crime, while
the magisterial authorities, European and Native,
were confined to the duty of investigating judi-
cially the cases brought before them by the
police.

^^ The example which Sir Charles appears to
have generally kej^t in view was the Irisli con-
stabulary. But he had, long before coming to
Sindh, tried his plan among the inhabitants in
one of the Ionian Islands, where the population
was more Oriental than European in character
and habits. It was perhaps owing to the care-
ful consideration he had thus given to the subject
in earlier years, that he was able, immediately
after the conquest, at once to devise and carry
out an elaborate plan, involving a system pre-
viously untried in India, and which was so per-

ON THE SINDH POLICE. 123

fectly successful as to have required little alter-
ation even in the details.

'' In the Ionian Islands also, I believe, he
first enforced his disarming Act, by forbidding
persons to carry arms without a licence. The
wisdom of this measure, and the absolute neces-
sity to any efficient system of protective police,
is now very generally acknowledged, though
two years ago its ]Dracticability, or at all events
its expediency, would have been very generally
contested in every Province in India. It
apjoears to me quite essential to such a system
as the Sindh police, and was one of the first
measures Sir Charles adopted after the conquest.
It is to be observed that he never ordered or
permitted any search after arms.

'' The separation of the police from the magis-
terial authority, and their independence of each
other, are the features of the Sindh system which
at present strike most Indian officers as open to
objection. Few deny that, if the officer who is
to prevent crime, and to pursue and detect the
criminal, be separate from him who is to sit in
judgment, and if necessary to convict and
punish, it is probable that more crimes will be
prevented and detected, and that justice will be

124 THE POLICE AND MAGISTRATES.

more impartially administered. But it is argued
that in practice it is next to impossible to pre-
vent the two authorities clashing, and that they
can only work together if the one Department
can control the other.

'' But experience in Sindh does not show that
there is any ground for this apprehension ; this
may partly be owing to the fact that in Sindh
there has always been at hand, in the governor
or the commissioner, an authority to whom
both the police and the magistrates are subor-
dinate, and to whom either can refer when they
chance to differ.

'' It may not be amiss to note the general
character of the faults which, in this Province,
the one department is apt to find with the
other.

'' The magistrates and their assistants, Euro-
pean and Native, are apt to charge the police
with exceeding their authority in arresting
persons on insufficient ground, keeping them in
custody on frivolous pretexts, without at once
bringing them before a magisterial officer for
examination, with neglecting to procure all the
evidence which may be forthcoming, and with

SEPARATION OF FUNCTIONS. 125

relying too much on the accused's admission of
the charge, and the like.

" The police are apt, on the other hand, to
charge the magisterial authorities with inflicting
inadequate punishment on great or habitual
offenders, with requiring redundant proof,
beyond what is necessary to moral conviction,
with undue severity in punishing the police if
they exceed their legal authority, and the like.

''It will be seen that a zealous officer in
either department would always be liable to
give some ground to such charges, according as
his natural tendency might be to detect and
prosecute crime, or to sit in impartial judgment
on the accused : and the fact that such charo-es
are continually brought forward on both sides,
and are proved not to be altogether groundless,
while they rarely, if ever, are found to be serious
in character, is, I think, a strong proof that the
separation of the two departments works well
for both the prevention and detection of crime,
and for the administration of justice ; and that,
if both functions were intrusted to one official,
there would be a greater chance of serious error,
according as his character and sympathies in-

126 THE COMxMISSIONER.

clined him to be either more of a policeman or
more of a judge.

"It will be observed that the appeal from
either department in Sindh lies to an oincer, the
commissioner, who is equally interested in the
prevention or detection of crime, and in the
administration of justice, while he is not per-
sonally concerned in either way with the case
which may be laid before him in appeal.

''I have found it of great advantage that an
officer should serve as deputy magistrate before
he becomes lieutenant of police : such officers
are always less liable than others to clash with
the magistrate and his subordinates.

" Practically, if the magistrate is a reasonable
and zealous officer, the lieutenant of police
becomes to him much the same as an extra
assistant for police purposes; and all goes on
smoothly. It is chiefly when the magistrate is
unreasonable or indolent that the lieutenant of
police is obliged to look to the captain of police
for that support and direction which his own
position as a junior and subordinate officer may
render necessary, and which the captain of
police, being, like the magistrate, in direct com-

PROTECTIVE AND DETECTIVE POLICE. 127

munication with the commissioner, is generally-
able to afford him.

'' The chance of the police and magisterial
authorities coming into unseemly or unneces-
sary collision is, in practice, much diminished
by the circumstance that the police are in no
way exempt from the ordinary jurisdiction of
the magistrates' and other courts of justice ;
though no sentence against a policeman can be
carried out till intimation of it has been given
to the lieutenant of j^olice, and opportunity
allowed for a reference to the captain of police,
and, if he thinks it necessary, to the commis-
sioner.

" This is found to be on the one hand an
effectual check upon the police, while, on the
other, it, to a considerable extent, protects
policemen against cabals or too severe punish-
ment for mistakes committed in the zealous ]oer-
formance of their duty.

'' One excellent feature in the Sindh j)olice is
the separation into different branches, protective
and detective, which affords an opening for the
employment of every description of character
likely to be useful to the police : some of the

128 PAYMENT OF POLICE.

most valuable detectives, for instance, are men
wliOj from deficiency of education, or limited
capacity in other respects, are quite unfit for
tlie higher posts in the general police establish-
ment, and who would, under the ordinary
Indian system, be ineligible for any post higher
than that of an ordinary police peon. Here
such a man may be remunerated at a rate cor-
responding to his utility as a detective police-
man, and be placed above the temptations
which, in India, would generally beset a man
whose sagacity furnished the evidence on which
conviction or acquittal, in trials of great im-
portance, might depend.

'^One of the principles of Sir C. Napier's
system, which has been too much neglected in
all bodies of Indian police, is that the policeman
should always be better paid than he would be
in his native place, so that the post of policeman
should be an object of ambition to the class
from which he was drawn, and always superior
to that of a day labourer. The gradual rise in
wages and prices in Sindh is now fast neutralis-
ing Sir Charles' intentions in this respect, but the
principle is one the soundness of which is beyond
doubt, and should always be kept in view.

TRACKERS. 129

'' It was never intended by Sir C. Napier that
the Sindh Government police should supersede
the indigenous village police of the country.
The latter consists of watchmen and trackers,
kept VL-p in each community according to its
requirements, and paid by the villagers at har-
vest-time, like the artificers and other village
servants. In Sindh, where the population is so
scattered, and cattle are so easily lost by stray-
ing or theft, the tracker is a necessary append-
age to each agricultural community, and I have
known some of the more experienced ones make
a very good livelihood, equal to ten or twelve
rupees per mensem. It is esteemed an honour-
able profession, and, in disputes, the word of an
experienced tracker is often regarded as de-
cisive ; I have even known robbers appeal to it,
and admit their guilt at once, and show where
the stolen property was concealed, if the track-
ers' fiat were against them.

" With the appointments and emoluments of
this class of men. Government in no way in-
terferes. They are employed, paid, or dis-
carded, entirely as the villagers may find con-
venient. But every Thannahdar makes it a
point to ascertain who are the good village

VOL. I. 9

130 THE PATEL.

trackers in his district, and where tliey are to
be found ; and it is from among this class that
some of the best detective policemen are drawn.

'' The only village officer at all recognised by
Government is the headman or patel, who is
responsible for giving information to the nearest
j)oliceman of any accidents or offences which
may come to his knowledge, and who is bound
to assist in person and with the aid of all mem-
bers of the community, trackers included, in
any subsequent steps wliich the police may find
necessary.

^' This system seems to me, upon the wliole,
the best I have seen in India, for combining
the agency of the universal village police with
that of a centralised force like that of the Go-
vernment police. The village police in Sindh
not being, in any way, interfered with, remains
probably quite as efficient as it was under the
native Government, while it is supported and
supplemented by the Government police, when
occasions arise with wliich the village police is
incompetent adequately to deal."

CHAPTER Y.

Residence in Travellers' Bungalow — Meeting between Lord William
Beutiuck andMaharajahRimjit Singh — Indian Field of the Cloth of
Gold — The Maharajah's Troops — The Governor-General's Durbar
—Ameer Khan— Shahzada Sooltaun Jan — Sacred Places — Khoa-
jah Khizr — A Popular Legend — Island of Satee, or the Seven
Sisters — Sadlioo Beyla — Tombs — Minaret of Mahomud Masum —
Educational Establishments — Books in the Sindhian Character —
Public Garden — Judicial Administration of Sindh — Civil and
Criminal Courts — Fceticide — Fleet of Boats.

Having received instructions from Meer Ali
Moorad to remain at Sukkur mitil His Highness
sliould arrive in the vicinity of Kh^nrpoor, we
made om^selves as comfortable as circumstances
would permit in the Travellers' Bungalow, but
as by regulation no person can continue to oc-
cupy rooms in these bungalows more than three
days, we could never depend on retaining ours
after that term had expired. Fortunately for
us, few persons were travelling at that time, so
we were for three weeks or so undistui'bed. In
tlie interim the Jhelum and Frere arrived. The
Jhclnm is a very slow vessel, and the Frerej

132 RESIDENCE IN TRAVELLERS' BUNGALOW.

having a flat in tow, reached Sukkur several
days after the Nimrodj and both vessels were so
completely crammed with troops that the men
had barely room to lie down, though the native
servants generally slept on shore after taking
their evening meal. A fleet of boats with 300
Sepoy prisoners, mider sentence of trans23orta-
tion, also arrived from Mooltan some days sub-
sequently, under charge of a strong guard of
General Van Cortland's Military Police Corps.
Some two or three of the prisoners had been
shot in attempting escape near Subjulcote. The
men of the guard were fine, stout fellows, and
appeared to be very attentive to their duty.

The loneliness of our residence in the Travel-
lers' Bungalow was occasionally mitigated by
the presence of some agreeable companions, one
of whom amongst other anecdotes related the
following regarding Ameer Khan, a Pathan
chief of Hindustan, which for chivalry of senti-
ment matches Scott's anecdote of the Hii^h-
land Chieftain's candelabra in the Legend of
Montrose : —

'' The meeting between Lord William Ben-
tinck, when Governor-General of India, and
the Maharajah Runjit Singh, at Roopur on the

FIELD OF THE CLOTH OF GOLD. 133

Sutlcj, furnished," said our friend, '' one of the
most gorgeous spectacles ever witnessed, even
in the East. At the time it was called ' the
Indian field of the cloth of gold,'' and well might
it be so styled, for with that rich material, and
even shawls, were some of the Maharajah's
tents lined. The Governor- Grenerals camp was
pitched on the left, that of E-unjit Singh on the
right bank of the Sutlej, there a noble stream,
over which a bridge of boats had been thrown
to facilitate communication between the camps :
Lord William Bentinck, though simple in his
own habits, was attended by all the magnates
of the land, and surrounded by a staff who vied
with each other in the splendour of their dis-
play. In fact, the Governor-General's camp
contained upwards of a hundred elephants,
and camels were in countless numbers. His
Lordship's escort was small, but of picked men,
and finer specimens of British soldiery were
never seen. The escort consisted of a brigade
of Horse Artillery, whose guns and equipment
were models of their kind, as intended for pre-
sentation to the Maharajah. Two squadrons of
H. M.'s 16th Lancers, with the 31st Foot, com-
pleted the escort. The advance in line of the

134 STATE VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL.

31st elicited the most enthusiastic praise from
old Rmijit, wlio was himself every inch a
warrior ; ' that regiment moves,' said he, ' a
living wall,' and truly it did so, in advancing
to the royal salute on the occasion of His High-
ness' visit to the Governor-General. On the
following day his visit was returned with all
]30ssible ' pomp and circumstance,' but the
grandeur of display in the British camp was as
nothing compared with the 'vivid magnificence
of that of the Maharajah. On our side of the
river not a blade of grass was to be seen, but on
crossing the Sutlej we found ourselves as though
in fairy land, one sheet of verdure extending for
miles, the ground having been ploughed, level-
led, and sown with wheat, which had been care-
fully watered to expedite its growth, and there
the Maharajah's tents were pitched as though
upon a lawn. The tents themselves were of the
most costly materials, and some of them of vast
size ; but two in particular struck my fancy as
perfect gems of their kind, one being lined with
the finest Cashmere shawls, the other with Kin
kab, or cloth of gold, and the tent-poles were
encased with gold or silver.

" A large body of the Maharajah's best troops

THE Maharajah's teoops. 135

were paraded on the occasion, and made a
goodly display, for they were well clothed, well
armed, and, by the steadiness of their move-
ments, did great credit to the Em-opcan officers
in the Maharajah's service. His band, on
which he much prided himself, was, however, a
failm:"e, and when about to strike up, General
Allard was so apprehensive of an outburst of
risibility, that he rode up to the English officers
who were near the Maharajah, and said, " Ayez
la complaisance de ne pas rire. Messieurs, s'il
vous plait," and perhaps the warning was not
altogether unnecessary. The Lancers formed
a showy body, being dressed in yellow satin,
which had a most gaudy effect, but the Ghora-
churas, or Irregular Cavalry, were the most
striking-looking troops in Runjit's force. When
the guns were presented to him, he appeared as
much delighted as a child with a new plaything,
and immediately requested to have them tried.
They were accordingly loaded, and a horseman
taking up a chuttry* galloped some hundred
yards to the front and placed it for a mark to
fire at. The young artillery officer in charge
of tlie guns laid one and fired it, sending the

* An umbrella.

136 THE governor-general's durbar.

cliuttry flying. ^ Wah, wah,' said Runjit Singh,
' now one of my Golundauze shall try his skill,'
and accordingly he fired three or foux shots,
but not one of them hit the mark.

^'Next day the Governor-General held a grand
Durbar, which was attended by all the princes of
Upper India, forming a vast assemblage magnifi-
cently attired, who, as usual on such occasions,
presented theirniL^mirs [offerings] to his Lordship.
Amongst those present was Ameer Khan, who
from a very humble beginning had raised him-
self to sovereign power, as I shall presently
relate. This chief, to the astonishment of every
one, came to the j^i'^^cnce empty-handed.
Thinking that the old warrior, who was more
at home in camps than courts, had forgotten to
bring a nuzzu7\ a British official reminded him,
saying, 'Khan Sahib, nuzzur-i-shuma cuja ust:'
Khan Sahib, where is your nuzzur ? The old
man smiled, and beckoning beyond the circle,
up strode his six stalwart sons — each above six
feet in height, and fully equipped in magnificent
suits of chain armour. 'Here,' said the vener-
able chief, the glow of paternal pride beaming
on his countenance, ' is my nuzzur^ as the
sons made their salutations to the Governor-

AMEEK KHAN. 137

General, wlio was delighted with the chivalric
feelmg that had prompted the above striking-
ly interesting scene. But now I must give
you a slight sketch of the history of Ameer
Khan, for it furnishes an extraordinary in-
stance of a chief, with neither territory nor
population under his acknowledged dominion,
being able to bring a large force into the field ;
but such is the fact, and as long as a native
Indian army is able to carry on offensive opera-
tions under a leader of mark, recruits will flock
to his standard from all quarters. In fact, the
character of the war in which a native power
is engaged, is perhaps of as much importance
as its revenue, population, or territorial extent.
Ameer Khan was at first a mere military ad-
venturer, but possessing a daring spirit, and
being little scrupulous as to the means so that
his end was attained, he eventually raised himself
to sovereign power. In 1809-10 that power
was at its zenith. He commanded above thirty
thousand horse, though many of them were
mere Pindarics. His connection with the other
great Pathan leader, Mahomed Shah Khan, who
maintained an army on the resources of the
Joudhpoor state, further placed at his disposal

138 TROOPS OF THE AMEER.

12,000 well-disciplined infantry, 6000 horse of
a superior description, and 112 guns, but Ameer
Khan's power subsequently declined, as Sir
John Malcolm, who had the best means of in-
formation, reported to the Supreme Government
in 1817, that this chief's military force did not
exceed 12,000 horse, several indifferent batta-
lions, and between two and three hundi^ed
pieces of artillery. At this time, however,
the two Pathan chiefs were formidably pre-
eminent amongst our enemies from having large
bodies of trained infantry, and a numerous artil-
lery, all actuated by the same predatory spirit
as the Pindarics themselves. Their infantry
were the old battalions of Holkar, which were
reputedly the best in India, not under the com-
mand of European officers. The horse were
moreover paid by the month, instead of living,
as the Pindarics avowedly did, by plunder
alone. Indeed, the main difference between the
two classes was that the Pathans were banded
together for the pm^pose of plundering govern-
ments and powerful chiefs, whilst the Pindarics
were actuated by a desire for general rapine.
They preyed upon the population at large, and
only fought when figliting was unavoidable,

THE PATIIAN CHIEFS. 139

whereas the Pathan leaders moved about with
both field and siege artillery, so as to work on
the apprehensions of the princes of Central
India, and extort from them contributions and
other advantages, by the intimidation that such
a force was calculated to impress. The con-
nection of the Pathan chiefs witli Holkar's dur-
bar gave them the character of mercenaries;
indeed, such they were, for in 1809, when the
Joudhpoor territory was threatened by Sindhia,
the Rajah engaged the services of Mahomed
Shah Khan for the purpose of repelling the
attack. The Pathan chiefs and their followers
were, in fact, Condottieri, whose sharp swords
were ever at the disposal of the best bidder, and
thus gave them an opportunity of interfering
in the passing intrigues of the Rajpoot and
Mahratta princes, and by their active partisan-
ship they always managed to derive personal
advantages, and, with a large recompense in
view, were not over particular as to the means
of its attainment. Ameer Khan twice sold his
services for the assassination of obnoxious per-
sons, and, on both occasions, violated the most
solemn guarantees. But such acts were little
heeded at a time and in a country where mur-

140 AMEER khan's TERRITORY.

der and rapine was an every-day occurrence.
This chief was undoubtedly a man of great
tact, and as such became the acknowledged
head of the Pathan forces and interests ; and
the other Pathan leader dying, all the Sirdars
consented to act in subordination to Ameer
Khan, under whose personal command the
whole of their troops were placed, and he
played his cards with such consummate skill,
that at the termination of the war in 1818,
he was allowed to retain possession of Seronj in
Malwa and Tonk on the Banas, which are his
two principal possessions, but there was scarcely
a district of Rajapootana in which he had not
some fort or assignment of territory. The
British Government moreover engaged by treaty
to secure to him all lands which he held by
grant from Holkar. It was further determined
tliat Rampoora, which had been ceded by Hol-
kar to the British Government, should be con-
ferred on Ameer Khan, I suppose in consider-
ation of the signal services that he rendered to
us, by inducing the leaders of his powerful
force to surrender their guns and disband their
numerous followers, which was not accomplish-
ed without great difficulty ; so, whatever his

SHAHZADA SOOLTAUN JAN. 141

antecedents, Ameer Khan well merited a signal
reward."

The climate of Sindh is said to be uncongenial
to the constitution of elephants, and those
animals are rarely seen there. I was therefore
one day surprised to learn that a native prince,
mounted on an elephant, had called in my
absence, leaving a card inscribed '' Shahzada
Sooltaun Jan." After a short time my visitor
returned, and a very gentlemanly man I found
him. The Shahzada introduced himself as a
nephew of the late Shah Soojah ool Moolk, King
of Cabool, and stated that he had been an officer
in our Irregular Cavalry, but had quitted the ser-
vice on account of a rupture, which disqualified
him for mounted duty, and was in the enjoyment
of a pension from Government. I rather liked
what I saw of the Shahzada, whose breeding
was evidently equal to his birth, and I subse-
quently saw more of him at Khyrpoor, where
he was welcomed by Meer Ali Moorad, less I
believe through sympathy for his fallen fortunes
than the desire to retain a scion of royalty at
his court, as enhancing His Highness' own
dignity.

The weather continued delightfully cool

142 SACRED PLACES.

throughout the month of January, nearly as
cold after sunset as it is in the south of Europe
at the same season ; but our time would have
passed heavily had it not been for the constant
occupations that inquiries into all relating to
Sindh, its people, customs, &c., afforded. I
also visited everything worth seeing in the place
and its neighbourhood.

During my stay at Sukkur, a Seyud, who
resided at Old Sukkur, made our acquaintance,
and a very intelligent man he appeared, though
some of his tales rather bordered on the mar-
vellous, and he never tired of talking of the
by-gone glories of his native place. Sukkur,
Bukkur, and Roree, are all considered sacred
places by the Mahomedans, who had formerly
colleges and establishments of Seyuds and holy
men there, whose tombs, some of which are
very handsome, contribute to the picturesque
appearance of the hills on either side of the
river. The islands in the Indus are some of
them held peculiarly sacred too ; one of these,
called Khoajah Khizr^ contains a mosque of very
ancient appearance, dedicated to Khizr or Elias,
"the Saint of Waters;" which from an in-
scription that formerly existed, though I was

A POPULAR LEGEND. 143

unable to find it, leads to the supposition that
the mosque was erected in the year 341 A. H., or
927 years ago. This island is held sacred
equally by Hindoos and Mahomedans; the
former call it '^ Lauli-oode?j-Roo-Jindo-Pee7'" or
'' the living saint." The island of Klioajah
Khizr is said to be so sacred to everything
Sindhian that the fish of the river, particularly
the Pullah, evince their respect for the island by
never turning their tails when retiring from its
shores. The author of " Dry Leaves from Young
Egypt " gives the following account of the
legends regarding this island : —

'' The popular legend tells us, that a shepherd
named Baji, whose hut stood where the ^Ma-
hall of Baji,'' one of the divisions of the town of
Eohri, now stands, observed at night a bright
flame burning at some distance from him :
thinking it had been kindled by travellers, he
sent his wife to procure a light from it, but as
often as she approached, it vanished. She re-
turned and told her husband ; and he, disbeliev-
ing her report, went himself, and then discovered
that it was indeed a miraculous manifestation.
Awe-struck with what he had seen, he erected
a Takiyah, or hermit's hut, on the spot, and

144 ISLAND OF SATEE.

devoted himself as a Fakir to the rehg-ious care
of the place. Soon after this the Indus altered
its course, and, abandoning the walls of Allore,
encircled the ground on which the Takiyah of
Baji stood, and which is now called the Island
of Khoajah Khizr."

The same writer refers to another story in tlie
Chachnamah, which relates " that the Rajah of
Allore was desirous of possessing the beautiful
daughter of a merchant who resided in his city.
The unhappy father, unable to oppose the wishes
of the King, entreated that a respite of eight
days might be allowed to him ; and having spent
that time in fasting and prayer, he was miracu-
lously conveyed with his daughter and all his
wealth to the island of Khizr, the river at the
same time deserting the city of Allore, which
was thus doomed to desolation for the tyranny
of its King."

Nearly opposite the fort of Bukkur, towards
the eastern bank, is tlie Island of Satee, or the
'' Seven Sisters," whereon is a tomb, regarding
which there is a popular legend to the follomng
effect : —

'' In former days a certain King of Delhi sent
a confidential officer to Persia to escort several

LEGEND OF THE SEVEN VIRGINS. 145

beautiful damsels from that country, who were
intended for the Royal Zenana, and whilst re-
turning to India with the seven virgins, to
whose memory this island is dedicated, an
enemy at the court of Delhi falsely accused
him to his sovereign of having betrayed his
tmst. The King, being violently enraged
against his officer, sought not to ascertain tlie
truth of the accusation, but at once directed the
vile informer to take a body of horse and inter-
cept the officer and his lovely charges, wlio were
accompanied but by a scanty retinue, and, wher-
ever he might fall in with them, to put tlie
whole to death. Unliappily he came upon tlie
party at Roree, and though the faithftil officer
and his attendants retired to this island, and
made a vigorous defence, in which they were
courageously assisted by the seven sisters, the
whole were mercilessly slain. But the falsehood
of the informer being afterwards discovered, the
King bitterly regretted his reckless haste, and
after causing the treacherous accuser to be put
to death, had a tomb erected to the memory of
his victims on the spot where they perished."
This is one of the traditions current in reference
to the Island of Satee.

VOL. I. 10

146 SADHOO BEYLA.

A little lower clown is another island, called
" Sddhoo Bei/la" or '' the Pure Spot," on which
the fuel for the steamers is stored. Here dwells
a Hindoo religieux of reputed great sanctity,
to whom the Hindoos resort in numbers, and
in whose prayers they place much faith.

Immediately on the rocky hill which over-
hangs the collector's house, in former days tlie
residence of the Government Agent, are the
ruins of what is said to have been the tomb of a
foreign princess, and more distant are several
others. Most of these tombs are faced with
encaustic bricks or tiles, the colours of which
are still bright, though they must have stood the
weather of nearly three centuries, for most of
these tombs date from the age of Acbar, though
some are of far greater antiquity ; indeed, the
author of the work above referred to, sup-
poses that some of the tombs were erected
upwards of eight centuries ago. The encaustic
bricks, wherewith these tombs are faced, are
set in a vast variety of patterns, and the colours
are far superior to those now made even at
Hala, which are said to be the best in Sindli.

A small domed building in the grounds of the
old Government Agency contains an inscription,

MINAKET OF MAHOMUD MASUM. 147

of wliicli a translation is given in the same work
as follows : — •

'' In the time of the Khilafut of the great
Shah, most revered King of Kings, brightness
of the faith, Muhammad Akbar, the King, ex-
terminator of infidels, may God establish his
kingdom.

" This building was erected for good pm-poses,
by the noble Muhammad Masum of Bakkar, the
son of Saiyid Safa, for the common benefit of
all Musalman. Whoever makes a tomb in this
edifice, the curse of God, and of the prophet,
and of angels, and of the faithful, on him rest !
1008, A. M." As we are now in the year
1275-76 of the Mahomedan era Hijree, the age
of this building is plain.

The tower or minaret of Mahomud Masum
stands on the height immediately overlianging
the bazaar, and as a landmark is visible at a
great distance. The remains of that pious and
munificent Seyud are said to be interred at the
foot of the tower.

Amongst the modern works at Sukkur I must
not omit mention of a large and neatly-built
school-house, which was opened whilst I was
there ; and here I sliall offer a few remarks on the

10 •

148 EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS.

subject of education in Sindli, which now appears
to be steadily advancing under the zealous super-
intendence of Major Goldsmid, one of the ablest
linguists in the service, who is entirely de-
voted to the cause of education. Until the year
1852 little had been attempted towards the in-
troduction of vernacular and English schools in
Sindh, but during the last seven years the estab-
lishment of both has been satisfactory. At
Kurrachee two English schools have been estab-
lished under Grovernment auspices. At Kotree
and Hyderabad similar schools have been
formed. At Shikarpoor Major Goldsmid suc-
ceeded in assembling a large number of scholars
for instruction in English. At Roree a spacious
College, sufficient for the accommodation of 200
pupils, has been completed, and it is intended to
form an English class. In the Shikarpoor col-
lectorate vernacular schools have been estab-
lished in all the large towns, wliicli are steadily
attended by nearly 300 scholars. The frontier
district has also had one school for some time
in operation, and three more are in progress.
The language of Sindh has now been reduced
to a definite shape ; a Sindhee character has
been established, such being an adaptation of

BOOKS IN THE SINDHIAN CHARACTER. 149

the Arabic alphabet to the sounds and peculiari-
ties of the SIndhee dialect. The indigenous
schools of the province afford instruction in
Arabic, Sindhee, and Persian, to a large num-
ber of the children of both sexes. In the city of
Hyderabad there are twelve private schools,
and one supported by the municipality, with an
attendance of nearly 900 scholars, of whom 34
are girls : 20 schools, having 550 scholars in this
collectorate, are either private or supported con-
jointly by Government and the municipalities.
Numerous elementary works on geography,
mensuration, arithmetic, or on general litera-
ture, have been translated into, and published
in, the new Sindhee character. An engineer
class has been established at Kurrachee. A
system of industrial education has been estab-
lished in the principal jails throughout the pro-
vince, where the prisoners are taught to manu-
facture carpets, coloured and plain cloths, and
execute various kinds of carpenters' and turners'
work. All this has been accomplished under
the direct management of the local aulhorities,
aided by Government to the extent of 10,000
rupees per annum, with additional grants for
educational buildings. Educational inspectors

150 PUBLIC GARDEN.

have been appointed, from which great results
are expected.

The principle which the chief commissioner
has hitherto found the most successful, has been
to afford the people a maximum of opportuni-
ties for all descriptions of education, combined
with a minimum of direct or authoritative inter-
ference. Those who have had the best oppor-
tunities of observing the Avorking of the system
declare their entire confidence in the plan.

Sukkur can boast of a public garden, such as
it is, but it has latterly been much neglected.
The Parsee and Bhora shops, from want of
support, are but poorly furnished with European
supplies, consequent on the limited demand for
such articles. The houses of the European
residents are indifferent, but the bazaar is well
built, and has a bustling, business-like aspect.

During our somewhat tedious sojourn at
Sukkur I made it my business to obtain some
information regarding the judicial administra-
tion of Sindh. After the conquest of that coun-
try by the illustrious Napier, His Excellency
established the following regulations for the
guidance and information of the magistrates,
and deputy and assistant magistrates, whom

JUDICIAL ADMINISTRATION OF SINDH. 151

he appointed for the disposal of minor cases
with the following powers : —

To inflict 6 months' imprisonment.

100 rupees fine.

50 lashes.
His Excellency also drew up instructions for
tlieir guidance in passing sentence, and at the
same time ordered that all cases involving a
heavier punishment than six months' imprison-
ment should be tried by military commission ;
the minor offences were easily and speedily
disposed of, but delay occurred in the settle-
ment of heavier cases. In civil suits the sole
order given regarding tlieir disposal was that
which ordered a fee of 5 per cent, to be levied
at the filing of every suit. This of course was
intended to operate as a check on litigation, and
I dare say has had that efi'ect. Until 1853 only
European officers exercised magisterial powers,
either of a criminal or civil nature. In 1849
orders were received to assimilate the practice
in all courts, as far as circumstances would
admit, to that laid down in the code of regula-
tions of 1827, and the progress, though slow,
has been satisfactory.

The civil courts established in Sindh arc : —

152 CIVIL COURTS.

1. The Commissioner's.

2. Magistrates' and Judicial Deputy Magis-
trates'.

3. Deputy Magistrates'.

4. MoonsifFs'.

5. Kardars'.

The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are appellate courts ;
the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th are courts of original
jurisdiction.

The kardars try suits not exceeding 50 rupees
in amount. There is a moonsiff at each of the
three zillali stations, who try suits not exceed-
ing 1000 rupees in amount.

The deputy magistrates and magistrates try
suits of any amount.

Appeals from the decisions of kardars are
made to the deputy magistrate of tlie district,
and thence to the commissioner.

Appeals from original decisions of deputy
magistrates and judicial deputy magistrates, are
made to the magistrate, and thence to the com-
missioner.

The judicial deputy magistrate is an officer
appointed to assist the magistrate in his judicial
duties ; he has powers coequal with the magis-
trate, but tries only such cases as are sent to

THE commissioner's COURT. 153

him by his superior. His duties are similar to
those of a joint judge in the Bombay Presi-
dency, but from his decision in original suits,
an appeal lies first to the magistrate, then to the
commissioner.

The Commissioner's court is the final court of
appeal ; he regulates all procedure, and answers
to the Sudr-Dewanee-Udaulut. He inspects
and supervises all the civil courts while on his
tour through the country. He is assisted in his
judicial duties by an officer styled the judicial
assistant to the commissioner, who prepares all
cases and lays them, with his opinion, before the
commissioner for final decision.

Sindh is divided into five districts, viz. three
Zillahs, the Frontier, under the Political Superin-
tendent, and the Thurr and Parkur Districts. In
each of the three zillahs there is a magistrate,
judicial deputy magistrate, and three or four
deputy magistrates, one moonsiff, and sixty
kardars throughout the province.

In the frontier district there is, under the po-
litical superintendent, an assistant political super-
intendent, with power similar to that of a deputy
magistrate, a mooktyarkar, and three kardars.

In the Thurr and Parkur districts there is a

154 CIVIL SUITS.

deputy magistrate, who is also acting political
agent in Cutch. He has full magisterial j^owers,
and has under him three kardars, but the system
here differs from that throughout the rest of the
province.

Civil suits in value above 20 rupees are liable
to a 5 per cent, fee on admission, and a similar
charge for every appeal. All suits below that
amount pay one rupee ; the only other cost is
for batta to the peon who serves summonses
from any distance, and four annas for each copy
of a decree.

There are no other charges for justice in
civil suits in Sindh, unless the parties employ
vakeels.

The Civil Court administration in the Thurr
and Parkur districts is conducted in a manner
very agreeable to the wishes and feelings of the
simple-minded people of that country; for a
time no fees were levied, as in the more civil-
ized districts, but I believe that a small fee is
now taken on the institution of a suit. Natives
of India, and especially Hindoos, are exceedingly
fond of litigation ; it is therefore undoubtedly
desirable to place obstacles, as far as possible,
in its wa}^, but at the same time the fewer

CRIMINAL COURTS OF SINDH. 155

niceties of English law that we have in the
administration of justice in India, the better
for the people of the country. Already has a
taste for the employment of Englisli lawyers
displayed itself in Sindh, and an attorney of
the supreme court of Bombay, whom I met at
Suldvur, was receiving a hundred rupees a
day for coming up there on the business of his
clients, and he extended his travels up to Ja-
cobabad. Truly he must have made a pretty
profitable job out of a pleasant journey. Thus
much for civil justice in Sindh ; I now come to
the criminal courts of that province,

CRIMINAL COURTS OF SINDH.

The officers appointed for the administration
of criminal justice are : —

The Chief Commissioner.

The Magistrates and Judicial Deputy Magis-
trates.

The Deputy Magistrates.

Tlie Kardars.

The kardars are empowered to dispose of
petty cases and award punishment as follows: —

1st. Fine to the extent of 15 rupees.

2nd. Confinement for 20 days.

156 MAGISTERIAL POWERS.

3rd. Stocks for 12 hours.

Besides which, when reported qualified, their
powers are increased to the extent below
noted :

1st. Imprisonment, with or without hard la-
bour, for any period not exceeding four months.

2nd. Fine not exceeding 100 rupees,

3rd. Flogging not exceeding 25 stripes.

Theft, cattle-stealing, and a long list of other
crimes and nuisances declared penal, come with-
in the scope of their jurisdiction ; but their de-
cisions require the confirmation of the deputy
magistrate before they are carried into effect,
and the prisoner and proceedings must be for-
warded to that authority within 24 hours after
trial.

Deputy magistrates have power to award one
year's imprisonment, and fine, or flogging, not
exceeding 50 lashes, without confirmation, and
seven years' imprisonment, fine or flogging,
subject to the chief commissioner s confirmation.

Magistrates are vested with powers corre-
sponding to session judges, and have also magis-
terial powers as enjoyed by zillah magistrates
in Bombay ; such as seven years' imprisonment
without confirmation ; fine, flogging, not ex-

CRIMES OF SINDH. 157

ceeding 50 stripes; solitary confinement not
exceeding six months ; and with confirmation
any sentence allowed by law.

The Chief" Commissioner's Cornet answers to
that of the Sudr-Foujdaree-Udaulut at Bombay.
He settles all points of procedure, and confirms
all sentences requiring his sanction, excepting
those of death or transportation for life, which
alone require the confirmation of the governor
in council. Whether in peace or war, it is no-
torious that Sir Charles Napier never carried a
serious sentence into execution, without having
previously made himself perfectly master of the
case. The punishment of death he inflicted
only for murder, but nmrder, and especially wife
murder, was then an every-day afiair. As the
certainty of punishment became known to the
people, the crime gradually decreased, and now
it is of comparatively rare occurrence, and even
when committed the nmrderer endeavours to
conceal his crime in most instances, striving to
make it appear that the unfortunate woman
committed suicide. Amongst the crimes of
Sindli, foeticide is declared to be carried on to
a dreadful extent, and to be thought lightly of
by the people. This is performed by the daijes

158 VISIT TO A PARSEE MERCHANT.

or midwiv^es, wlio are so expert in their crimi-
nal art, as to destroy the foetus in any stage of
pregnancy, without much danger to the mother.
Offences against morality are punished by the
magistrate whenever brought to notice. Wear-
ing arms is prohibited to all except Government
officials and police, unless by permission of the
magistrate, or captain, or lieutenant of police.
And here I drop the subject of civil and criminal
justice in Sindh, which my lady readers will be
sure to skip as far too dry for their perusal.

At length we were disturbed in our posses-
sion of the Traveller's Bungalow, by an invita-
tion to vacate it on the following morning in
favour of some married officers of the 16th
Native Infantry, which corps was expected
from Shikarpoor on the following day ; so we
paid Limjee, the Parsee merchant, a visit, know-
ing that he had several vacant houses, each,
perhaps, a trifle more ruinous and dirty than
the others, at least, so it seemed after looking
at half a dozen ; but we at last fixed on a small
octagon bungalow, on an elevated height not
very far from Mahomud Masum's Pillar, and
therein we established ourselves, as well as cir-
cumstances would permit, managing to keep

FLEET OF BOATS. 159

out the wind with mats, and maintaining an
enormous lire, for the weather was bitterly-
cold, and the situation of our house about the
most exposed in Suldiur. However, both my
chum and myself were prepared for discomfort ;
and plenty of discomfort we had during the
following nine months, as on His Highness'
repeated promises that we should want for no-
thing we had come very lightly provided with
the ordinary necessaries for European gentle-
men in India. On the day after our exodus to
the octagon bungalow, the 16th Native Infantry
arrived, and a very nice, smart-looking corps
they appeared, though somewhat dusty after a
march of a dozen miles along a road ancle-deep
in the finest sand. The regiment marched
straight down to the beach, or rather to the
ghats, where a fleet of boats lay in readiness
for their reception. These boats were mostly
of large size, very comfortably fitted up with
grass mats all round. On the following morn-
ing they would have been on their way down
the river, but during the night a tremendous
dust storm came on, and the commanding officer
ordered the corps to stand fast, as in such
weather it was dangerous to attempt the passage.

100 ACCIDENT BY FIRE.

Tlie Kurrachee papers some days afterwards
noticed the dreadful death of a lady and her
child on board one of these boats, which, when
fastened to the shore for the night, by some
negligence of the servants, caught fire, and both
were bm^ned to death before assistance could be
rendered by the lady's husband, who had
jumped overboard with the two elder children,
which were both saved. I am only surprised
that accidents by fire do not more frequently
occur on board these boats, from the inflam-
mable nature of the materials wherewith they
are covered, such being reed mats and straw,
or rather grass thatch, which is generally as dry
as tinder. These boats, when so fitted up are
very comfortable, unless too much crowded ; but
most travellers have the greater part of their
servants and baggage in a second boat, to allow
more space for themselves.

CHAPTER YI.

Shikarpoor — Its great Commercial Importance— Tbe Sudr Bazaar
— A Motley Multitude— Hindoo Merchants— Native Bills of Ex-
change—Decline of Shikarpoor — Jacobabad — The Jakranee and
Dooinkee Colonies — Importance of Jacobabad — Hill Campaign
under Sir Charles Napier — The Hill Tribes — Sindh Horse — War
Services of this Corps— Mirza Ali Acbar Khan Bahader — De-
parture from the North-western Frontier — Roree — House of a
Native Gentleman — The Jooma Musgid — Allore or Brahmanabad —
Ancient Course of the Indus— Seyuds of Roree — Sacred Hair of
the Prophet.

A CANTER of two-and-twenty miles in a north-
westerly direction from Sukkur brings one to
Shikarpoor, the Zillah station of the collectorate,
and the military head-quarters in Upper Sindh.
The garrison is, however, much reduced in
strength, now only consisting of a regiment of
native infantry, one company of artillery, and
two companies of European foot, with some of
the police corps. The station is tolerably well
laid out, and the houses are better, and their
general appearance is superior to that of
Sukkur ; the climate is much tlie same, but

VOL. I. 11

162 COMMERCE OF SHIKARPOOR.

Shikarpoor is generally preferred, on account of
the former being extremely dull. Shikarpoor is
situated on the high road to Candahar by the
Bolan Pass, and this must always give it an im-
portant influence on the trade of the Indus and
the countries beyond. No city beyond the
Indus at all comes up to it in commercial im-
portancCj from the extensive nature of its bank-
ing transactions with China, India, Persia,
Khorassan, Bokhara, Turkey, and Astracan,
its principal merchants having correspondents
and money transactions in all those countries.
Shikarpoor shares with Mooltan the title of one
of the gates of Khorassan, the natives of Sindh
so styling Afghanistan.

The city, which is about three miles in
circumference, is surrounded by a very dilapi-
dated wall, having eight huge gates, beyond
which are luxuriant gardens. It was built
about the year 1617, and contains 22,000 in*
habitants, according to the census of Captain
Postans, but since increased fully one-third.
The bazaar is an extremely fine one, about 600
yards in length, and entirely covered in, which,
however agreeable, as affording shelter from a
burning sun, renders the place unbearable wl\cn

THE SUDR BAZAAR. 163

crowded with people. Shikarpoor is truly the
capital of merchants, bankers, and money-
changers. Its position is eminently favourable
to commerce, and it may be considered the
entrepot of the Khorassan and Indian trade. Its
shops are filled with the finest shawls of Cash-
mere, cloth of gold from Mooltan, Hindustan,
and the Deccan, furs from Astracan, swords
from Persia and Damascus ; cloths of all kinds
and at all prices, ripe and dry fruits, with all
kinds of groceries, and what the Americans call
notions. The best time for viewing the Sudr
Bazaar is about four o'clock in the afternoon,
when all Sindli arouses itself after the midday
siesta, and pours into the bazaar, either for
purchases or pleasure, despite the stifling heat
from want of fresh air, and the poisonous
smells that exhale from a closely packed multi-
tude of not over-clean persons. '' Here," says
Captain Postans, "is to be met the haughty
Moslem, mounted on his fine Khorassan steed,
decorated with rich trappings, himself wearing
the tall Sindhian cap of rich brocade, and a
scarf of gold and silk, jostling through the crowd,
between whom a way is opened by the Sindhian
soldiers who precede and follow him ; then

11 *

IGrt A MOTLEY MULTITUDE.

follows the Afghan with a dark-blue scarf cast
over his breast, his long black hair falling in
masses on his shoulders, his olive cheek tinted
by the mountain breeze, and his eye full of fire
and resolution. We have also the Seyud of
Peshin in his goat's-hair cloak, the fair Herati,
the merchant of Candahar, in flowing garments
and many-coloured turban ; the tall Pathan
with heavy sword and mien calculated to court
offence, while among the rest is the filthy Sind-
hian, and the small, miserable-looking, cringing
Hindoo, owning perhaps lakhs in the neigh-
bouring streets, but fearing the exactions of the
Ameers. These present a fair sample of the
groups who crowed the principal street of Shi-
karpoor ; but we miss the wild Belooch, with his
plaited hair and ponderous turban, his sword,
matchlock, and high-bred mare ; but the free-
booter of the desert likes not cities, and is rarely
seen in them."

Here is a very accurate picture of the Shikar-
poor bazaar, the merchants of which city are as
noted for their active, business-like habits, as
their ladies are for beauty and freedom of man-
ners; indeed the Hindoos of the other great towns
give them credit for something more ; so much

HINDOO MERCHANTS. 165

scandalised too have some of those towns been
at the evil report of Shikarpoor, that it has more
than once been proposed to deprive the Hindoo
inhabitants of their caste. The accusation, it is
to be feared, is not altogether groundless ; but if
the wives are immoral, the husbands have mainly
to thanlv themselves for it. The practice of the
place is, after a young Hindoo marries, that he
should leave his wife, and go to seek his fortune
in distant countries, immediately after the birth
of his first child. His means at first are pro-
bably very small, but great self-denial, industry,
and usury pretty surely enable him to increase
his store. Many of these men become ministers
of small Mahomedan States, or are in confiden-
tial situations, whereby they are enabled to
amass money, and they thus return home wealtliy
citizens. Such a desertion of young wives for
a long period of years can, however, hardly con-
tribute to morality, and the consequence is, that
many of " the grass widows " form other con-
nections in the absence of their liege lords, who,
liowever, seem to take the thing very philoso-
phicall}^, albeit in some cases, says Captain
Burton, their families have increased durin":
their own absence, and when that occm\s, they

166 NATIVE BILLS OF EXCHANGE.

content themselves with adnnnistering a drub-
bing to their frail partners, and quietly fathering
the offspring that they find in the establisliment.
Small praise as the Hindoo merchants deserve for
the morality of their ways, I must admit that
they are trustworthy men of business, and I
believe that few instances can be cited of one of
their Hoondies (native bills of exchange) being
dishonom'ed, however distant might be the
locality on which it was drawn. The form of
these Hoondies is somewhat different from that
of an English Bill of Exchange : Ecce Sigmmij
according to that first of practical Orientalists,
Burton : —

1:^ True as the Deity Sri.

1. To the worthy of every respect, may yon
always be in good health, may you always
be happy — Mr Brother Jesu Mai.

2. From Shikarpoor, written by Kisordas ; read
his compliments.

3. And further, Sir, this one Hoondee of 1,000
rupees I have written on jom in numerals
and in letters, ruj^ees 1,000 ; and the lialf,
which is 500, of which the double is one

thousand complete. Dated the of

in the year of Vikramaditya, to be paid at

SHIKARPOOK. 1 67

Kabul, after the term of days, to the

bearer, the mone}^ to be of the currency of
the place.

In the year of Vikramaditya, &c.
On the documents are also certain private
marks which effectually prevent forgery and
swindling, as such are known only to the drawer
and his correspondent. About two-thirds of the
inhabitants of Shikarpoor are Hindoos, of very
lax tenets, as above stated, and of the remainder
one thousand are Afghans, or the descendants of
Afghans, and such are perhaps the handsomest
and most intelligent people in the East.

The cold season at Shikarpoor is extremely
pleasant, and they have water within thii^teen
feet of the surface in all parts of the city, which
possesses no public edifice worthy of notice,
though the houses of the more opulent Hindoo
merchants are large and commodious.

This city produces hair and cotton carpets,
silk loongees, and very superior leather, which
latter article has been exported in large quan-
tities to the coast of Arabia and the Persian
Gulf, since the days of ]\Iarco Polo. Shikarpoor
certainly wears an appearance of wealth sui^e-
rior to that of any other city in Sindli ; never-

168 DECLINE OF SHIKAKPOOR.

tlieless, Mr Macleod, a very able Revenue officer,
states in his report, tliat Shikarpoor has been ou
the decline ever since that of the Cabul mon-
archy. Further, that since the death of Jeyth
Mull the Kardar of Shikarpoor, who was all-
powerful, the mercantile connection of the place
has not extended beyond Cabul and Kandahar
to the westward, and Jeypore, Jessulmeer, and
Bickaneer to the east. Its principal trade is
now in the direction of Kurrachee and Palee,
and through those places with Bombay. Mr
Macleod's opinion is certainly at variance with
popular report in respect to the decline of
Shikarpoor; but as such opinion is based on
official data, it would be folly to gainsay it.
In that gentleman's opinion Kurrachee is now
the most prosperous commercial town in Sindli,
but even the transactions of her merchants, as
compared with those of the Bombay capitalists,
are, from want of means and want of enterprise,
on a limited scale. Indeed, he declares his be-
lief that there is not a wealthy man in trade in
all Sindh.

Twenty-five miles beyond Shikarpoor, on the
frontier of the Desert, towards the Bolan Pass,
is Jacobabad, formerly known as Khanghur,

JACOBABAD. 169

which a dozen years ago was a small village,
with a single well and three insignificant shops,
protected by a small square fort, with round
towers at the angles, and lancet-shaped crenelles
to shelter matchlock-armed defenders. Here
the late Brigadier-General Jacob established
himself with the head-quarters of the famous
Sindh horse. On the same spot is now a flourish-
ing town of 17,000 inhabitants, exclusive of the
trooj^s there stationed. Jacobabad is the head-
quarters of the north-west frontier, and by the
admirable management of the late Political
Superintendent, the country, which a few years
back was a desert waste, has been changed into
a sheet of luxuriant cultivation, producing a
return that is annually increasing, the revenue
of the district now amounting to upwards of
70,000 rupees annually. This has been accom-
plished by opening a canal from the Indus, for
some eighty miles into the heart of the desert.
In the tract of land watered by this canal, the
plundering tribes of the border have settled
down, as was jirojected by the great chief who
subdued them, and are now peaceful cultivators
of lands which have been granted to them on
liberal terms, with a secure title. So rapidly

170 THE JAICKANEE AND DOOMKEE COLONIES.

have tlie revenues of the frontier district in-
creased, that it may be confidently expected
they will yield a land revenue of two lakhs of
rupees, which might be increased to eight were
the project of the Great Desert Canal to be
carried into effect.

According to the latest published report from
the Chief Commissioner in Sindh, the remnant
of the Bhoogtee tribe have behaved well, and
adhered honourably to their engagements, hav-
ing repeatedly given up clansmen charged with
cattle-stealing. The Jakranee and Doomkee
Colonies about Jacobabad are also going on
favourably, each year seeming to confirm them
in their newly-acquired habits of industry; in-
deed they declare that they would not now wish
to quit Sindh. These people, under direction of
their own chiefs, have most efficiently constructed
a large dam, for irrigatory purposes, across an
old channel of the Indus, near Kusmore. The
Commissioner further reports that perfect secur-
ity for life and property now exists upon the
border and for some distance beyond. These
Belooch tribes, who formerly plundered all
Cutchee and Sindh up to the gates of Shikar-
poor and Larkhana, and who up to 1847 had

IMPORTANCE OF JACOBABAD. 171

never handled any tiling but weapons of war, have
now settled down to agricultural pursuits in the
most satisfactory manner. Of these tribes there
are about 2000 adult males at present living on
the British Border, the scene of their former
warlike deeds and predatory forays, which still
form the theme of their songs. Yet they resist
the many temptations offered to lead them to a
renewal of their former practices, for in no
single instance has such an event occurred.
Some of the Bhoogtees indeed have been taken
into our service amongst the Belooch Guides,
and have given entire satisfaction.

The importance of Jacobabad, in a political,
military, and commercial point of view, is very
great, being situated on the road to the Bolan
Pass, which is the highway to Central Asia.
The most recently published returns show that
under present circumstances even the trade
from Klielat and Afghanistan into Sindh far
exceeds that from the countries to the north or
eastward, and, were all impediments removed
in Afghanistan, it might be exj^ected very
rapidly to increase. Upon our inland frontier
all duties have been discontinued, and on the
north-western border arrangements have been

172 COMMERCE OF AFGHANISTAN.

entered into with the Khan of Khelat whereby
all transit duties through his dominions, which
duties were formerly numerous, heavy, and
vexatious, have been abolished, and in lieu
thereof a fixed duty of 8 annas per maund of
eighty pounds, without reference to value, is
levied. The customs and transit duties yet
levied at Candahar and throughout Afglianistan,
are however still very burdensome and vexatious,
and they press heavily and injuriously on the
trade; but it is to be hoped that our friendly
relations with the Ameer Dost Mahomed will
produce a favourable change in this respect.
The chief staple production of Khelat and
Afghanistan is wool, and the aggregate of im-
posts paid to the chiefs of those countries under
the arrangements which have hitherto obtained,
has been from 12 to 20 per cent. The subjection
of merchandise to transit duties so heavy as
these, on its way to the port of shipment, has
naturally proved very detrimental hitherto to the
fair development of the north-western trade ; thus
there is every reason to hope that, under our im-
proved relations with those states, the exports
in wool will be increased tenfold.

The expense of preserving peace and tran-

HILL CAMPAIGN UNDER NAPIER. 173

quilllty on this frontier was formerly enormous,
as compared with what it now costs ; in fact, the
large military force the Government found it
necessary for so many years to maintain in
Sindh, not for the purpose of restraining the
people, but to be ready to defend India from
foreign enemies, has been the cause of the
expenditure so greatly exceeding the revenues
of the Province. Some declare that it will never
be self-supporting ; but, until the exports of the
country shall have attained their maximum, it
will be impossible to form anything like an
accurate judgment on this point.

The frontier tribes are now quiet enough,
but a few years ago they were constantly dis-
turbing the peace of the border ; and to such an
extent had tliese predatory inroads arrived, that
in January, 1845, Sir Charles Napier found it
necessary to take the field, and, with an army of
6000 men, commenced the Truckee (or hill
campaign) against the Murrees, Bhoogtees, &c.,
and so masterly were the arrangements of that
great commander for hemming in those robber-
tribes, that in little more than six weeks they
were too glad to surrender at discretion. The
hill tribes mustered 18,800 fighting men, and

174 THE HILL TRIBES.

the boast of tlieir chiefs was that during 600
years no enemy had ever entered their moun-
tains, every army that attempted it having failed;
two British detachments perished ahiiost to a
man in those fastnesses in 1840. Thus Beja
Khan, Doomkee, Islam Khan, Bhoogtee, Durrya
Khan, Jala^anee, and Hoossein Klian, Mun-
dooanee, with their robber-tribes, who were
assembled at Truckee, considered themselves
secure in that almost inaccessible stronghold,
surrounded by rocks, through clefts in which
their assailants could alone find entrance ; but
they knew not the master-spirit with whom
they had to contend, and whom they afterwards
styled the Shytaim Ka Bhaije* Provisions and
water were brought up for the troops with the
greatest difficulty. No man could move be-
yond the line of sentries without the certainty
of death, for, concealed in caves and chasms, the
robbers stole out on the troops and killed all
they could surprise ; but so admirably were the
great captain's measures taken, that, as I have
before said, he in a few weeks compelled the
enemy to surrender at discretion. Those con-
quered robbers are now peaceful husbandmen^

* Satan's Brother.

MEER ALI MOORAD. 175

cultivating the very lands which they had before
harried in their predatory inroads. His High-
ness Meer Ali Moorad rendered good service
Vi^ith his troops on the above occasion, having
with General Beatson threaded a defile and
moved along tracts covered with sharp stones
for nearly 60 miles without a halt; and Sir
Charles Napier thus expresses his opinion of the
Meer, which on the whole I believe to be a just
one, though I give him credit for a larger share
of ability than Sir Cliarles did. ''Ali Moorad
has behaved well. His presence was a bore
because he would not obey orders, and his
camp was full of traitors ; but he was infinitely
less mischievous than I expected, and true him-
self. I have now the correct measure of his
character: good-natured, well-meaning, full of
vanity, energetic to do what he likes, not clever,
and easily guided. He is wild to go to London,
and they won't let him ; why, I know not."

It is no more than justice here to insert the
translation of a letter from the Governor-Ge-
neral, the late Lord Hardinge, to Meer Ali
Moorad, acknowledging His Highness' most im-
portant services in the Truckee campaign : — '' I
have learnt from the report of the Government

176 LETTER TO MEER ALT MOORAD.

of Sindh of your most important services, zeal,
and assiduity, rendered by your troops during
the late campaign in the province of Sindh ;
they have been fully made known, and have
proved the source of great pleasure to your
sincere friend. In reality your diligence, skill,
experience, and knowledge during the cam-
paign were praiseworthy, and gained the thanks
of your friends ; especially the extreme per-
severance and exertions with your army during
those affairs which terminated so favourably, is
a source of congratulation, and I congratulate
you accordingly. Oh ! kind friend, I expect
with sincere hopes that the fruits and the re-
sult of these affairs will ever prove peace and
tranquillity ; and also from your superior intelli-
gence and good administration, I have every
confidence that those tribes from whose depre-
dations and attacks many calamities befell the
country, have been removed into a neighbour-
ing country, and prevented from committing
further excesses. I trust that in future they
will prove loyal and peaceable subjects. I hope
you will consider me always to be your friend
and well-w4sher, and the tidings of your good
will ever afford me great pleasure."

THE SINDII HORSE. 177

I must not be lield responsible for the accu-
racy of this transhition, which was prepared by
a moonshee.

The Cutchee expedition having terminated, a
cordon of troops 3000 strong was drawn across
the frontier to protect it from future inroads of
the hill tribes. This cordon was not however
very long necessar}^, for the Sindh Horse, whose
numerous outposts were spread along the fron-
tier, have since, with rare exceptions, been found
sufficient to maintain tranquillity. Here a brief
sketch of the war services of this distinguished
corps may not be unacceptable.

The Sindh Horse were raised in 1839, at the
recommendation of Colonel Pottinger, then
''Resident in Sindh;" a squadron of the Poo-
nali Horse, at that time serving in Cutch, being
transferred to Sindh to form the nucleus of the
new corps. The establishment of the regiment
was fixed as follows : —

1 Commandant, 1 Second in Command, 1
Adjutant, 1 Rissaldar, 5 Jemadars, 10 Duf-
fadars, 20 Naib Duffadars, 5 Trumpeters, 450
Sowars. The corps had only been formed about
three months, when they were employed on
service in Eastern Cutchee, in which they highly

VOL. I. 12

178 WAR SERVICES OF THE SINDH HORSE.

distinguished themselves in several smart affairs
with the Beloocli tribes. Shortly afterwards
they were twice successfully engaged with the
Bhoogtees; on the second occasion the enemy
were defeated with great slaughter, and it was
stated that the victory was mainly owing to
tlie distinguished conduct of the Sindh Horse.
In April, 1840, a detachment of the regiment,
under Lieutenant Clarke, being attacked by
the whole Murree tribe near Kahun, was
obliged to retreat, Lieutenant Clarke being
killed, though offering the most gallant -resist-
ance to the last. Li August following, a de-
tachment of 100 Sowars, under Ensign Mal-
colm, formed part of the force under Major
Clibborn sent with a large convoy to the relief
of Kahun. This force was attacked l}y the
whole Murree tribe near the Nuffoosk Pass.
The struggle was severe, but the enemy were
beaten off with great loss on both sides. The
Sindh Horse had forty men killed and wounded
in the affair, with many horses. In the follow-
ing month the head-quarters of the regiment
formed the advanced guard of the force pro-
ceeding against the Khan of Khelat, when
some severe fighting took place, the enemy suf-

ACTION WITH THE BELOOCHEES. 179

fering severely in an affair near Kunda, in which
tlie "Sindh Horse" lost four men and 11 horses.
The detachment was again engaged in the ac-
tion near Dadur, in which Meer Nusseer Khan
and the whole Brahoe army were defeated. In
this action the Sindh Horse suffered severely.
In 1840 the head-quarters of the Sindh Horse
were posted at Chuttur in Eastern Cutchee, for
the purpose of holding in check the Belooch
tribes, and for preventing communication be-
tween Afghanistan and Sindh, a duty of no or-
dinary difficulty, as about tliat time the news
of the destruction of our force at Cabul, and of
all our disasters in Afghanistan, was spread
throughout the country", and every possible
effort made by our enemies, both above and
below the Passes, to stir up the whole of the
Beloochees against us in Sindh and Cutchee.
A party of a Naigue and seven Sowars, march-
ing from Bhaug towards Kunda in the following
mouth, came suddenly on a large body of Be-
looch plunderers, whom they instantly charged,
but five of their number being severely wounded
they were obliged to retire.

Sliortly afterwards the strength of the regi-
ment was increased to 600 sabres ; and its disci-

12*

180 SERVICES OF LIEUTENANT JACOB.

pline under the training of Lieutenant Jacob
was perfect, although the corps had been con-
stantly employed most actively in Eastern Cut-
chee, in preventing any combined efforts of
hostility on the part of the Belooch tribes.
This would have been no easy matter at any
time, but under the peculiar circumstances then
attending our position in Afglianistan, which
was well known to all, and the efforts which
were made on every side to stir up the warlike
and lawless people against a handful of British
troops in Cutchee, the difficulties appeared
almost insurmountable; nevertheless the task
was accomplished. Although the predatory
tribes occasionally assembled in very large
numbers under the most skilful and daring of
their chiefs, they were never successful, for
tlieir most persevering and vigorous efforts were
always baffled by the superior vigilance and
courage of the men who were opposed to them.
The best of the Belooch warriors through this
lost their reputation as leaders, and their men
would not follow them : doubt and distrust
everywhere prevailed among the chiefs, and
during the most trying period of our disasters
in Afglianistan, perfect tranquillity was main-

MOVEMENTS OF THE REGIMENT. 181

tamed In a country and among a people where
and to wliom quiet liad been heretofore un-
known. This was accomplished by the master
mind of Jacob in directing the good swords of
his gallant regiment.

On the retirement of the British forces from
AfghanistaUj the regiment was disposed to pro-
tect the line of march of the British troops
through Cutchee ; and after all had crossed the
desert and were encamped at Janadeyra, the
regiment, which had been stationed at Chuttur,
marched for Khanghur, which was established
as an outpost occupied by the Sindh Horse,
with a brigade of guns and two companies of
infantry, the whole under Jacob.

Early in January, 1843, the Sindh Horse
joined the army assembled at Aboobukkur, on
the eastern bank of the Indus, under Sir Cliarles
Napier, then moving down against the Ameers
of Hj'derabad. On the 17th February the
'' Sindh Horse" formed tlie advanced guard of
the army, with instructions to discover and
watch the enemy. This was soon done, as
Jacob immediately came on the Belooch army,
20,000 strong, with 15 guns, occupying a strong
position in the dry bed of the Fidlalie river, pro-

182 ACTION UNDER SIR C. NAPIER.

tectcd by its banks, having a dense Sliikargah
on. their left, and the village of Kattree pre-
pared for defence on their right. As the Sindh
Horse approached they were received with a
smart fire of artillery. Jacob then formed line
at about 500 yards' distance from the enemy,
sent a report to the General, and remained
halted under a vigorous cannonade until the
remainder of the army came up about 9 o'clock.
In Sir Charles Napier's report of the battle,
as contained in a despatch to the Governor-Ge-
neral dated 18th February, he thus notices the
conduct of the Sindh Horse : —

" The gallant charge of the Bengal Cavalry
was intrepidly led by Lieut. Colonel Pattle,
second in command, and by Major Story; nor
were the Sindh Horse under Captain Jacob
idle. To this able soldier and his regiment I
am indebted for the most active services, long-
previous to and during the combat. He won
the enemy's camp, from which he drove a body
of three or four thousand cavalry."

On the 28th March, the Sindh Horse formed
the advance guard of the army proceeding to
attack Meer Shore Mahomed of Meerpoor ; then
followed the battle of Hyderabad. In the do-

INCREASE OF THE REGIMENT. 183

sj^atcli reporting this engagement to the Go-
vernor-General of India, Sir Charles Napier
thus mentions the services of the Sindh Horse: —

'' The enemy was now perceived to move
from his centre in considerable bodies to his
leftj apparently retreating, unable to sustain
the cross lire of the artillery ; on seeing which,
Major Stack, at the head of the 3rd Cavalry,
under command of Captain Delamain, and the
Sindh Horse, under command of Captain Jacob,
made a brilliant charge u^^on the enemy's left
flank, crossing the Nullah, and cutting down the
retreating enemy for several miles."

On the 14th June, the Sindh Horse formed
part of a detachment ordered to take the field
under Captain Jacob against Meer Shore Ma-
liomed, who, thinking to surprise his camp,
moved down upon it before daylight, but Jacob
being apprized of his approach left his camp
standing, and attacking the Belooch army on
its line of march totally defeated it, capturing
three guns and several standards.

On the 1st August, 1844, tlie strength of the
regiment was increased to 1002 sabres.

On the 13th January following, the Sindh
Horse, with two caracl-guns and the Sindh camel-

184 SECOND REGIMENT OF SINDH HORSE.

corps, and European volunteers, made a forced
march to Slialipoor, where they surprised a
large body of Jakranees, Doomkees, and Boord-
hiaSj taking 62 prisoners.

In the following year a second regiment of
Sindh Horse was raised, its strength being 802
sabres.

In January, 1847, a detachment from Meer-
poor, consisting of 18 Sowars, under command
of Ruheem Bucksh Duffadar, came suddenly
on a party of 200 predatory horse, whom they
instantly charged, and the robbers taking to
flight were pursued for about seven miles, the
cavalry cutting down many. In October fol-
lowing, Lieutenant Mere wether, with 133 of the
Sindh Horse, attacked the whole Bhoogtie tribe
on a plain near Chuttur, killed 560 of the
enemy, and took 120 prisoners. The details of
this gallant affair are thus noticed by Sir Charles
Napier: — ''Lieutenant Merewether issued at
once from Shahpoor with 120 Sindh horsemen
and some auxiliary Reharies, and soon came
upon the Bhoogtees, 700 in number, and strong
in courage. They clashed sword against shield
and invited the charge, shouting and liowling
in a singular manner, being, indeed, like wild

SERVICES BEFORE MOOLTAN. 185

beasts hungered and terrible. With a vehe-
ment shock Merewether and his horsemen went
through them, but they closed again shoulder
to shoulder, and slowly retiring under a severe
carbine fire crossed a rivulet and made for their
rocks. Again they were brought to bay, and
when falling fast under fire were offered quar-
ter, but without shrinking they fought until
only 120 remained, who threw down their
arms. Islam Khan Bhoogtee and Ahmed Khan,
the two principal chiefs, were not there, but
18 minor chiefs died under shield, and the
tribe of Blioogtees, those fierce spoliators, those
gallant swordsmen, heroic in sentiment and
constancy, was utterly destroyed, and the
Sindliian frontier remained in peace."

In September, 1848, on a requisition from Cap-
tain Edwardes, 500 of the Sindh Horse marched,
at a moment's notice, to join General Whisli's
army before Mooltan, in the close investing of
which place they were actively employed dur-
ing the siege. Having subsequently joined
Lord Gough's army, they took part in the battle
of Goojerat, in which their gallantry elicited
the marked commendation of Sir Joseph Thack-
well, commanding the left wing of the army;

18G CAMPAIGN AGAINST THE AFGHANS.

who, immediately after their charge upon a
large body of Afghan cavalry, whom they ut-
terly routed and drove from the field with the
loss of two standards, addressed their command-
ing officer in the highest terms of praise. The
Sindh Horse then took part in the pursuit and
captured several guns, and subsequently formed
part of the force under Sir Walter Gilbert, which
chased the enemy across the Indus, and fol-
lowed them up to Jumrood, where small parties
of the regiment had several encounters with
hill-plunderers. The conduct of the Sindh
Horse in this campaign was highly praised in
the official despatches.

In 1850, a body of marauding horsemen car-
ried off a number of camels between Kundcote
and Tungwarree. Information was speedily
given to Jemadar Doorgah Singh, who com-
manded the frontier post, and that officer im-
mediately went in pursuit of the robbers, whom
he followed for more than sixty miles into the
hills, where they came upon a large body of
the enemy, when nearly all his own men,
whose horses had failed them, were far behind.
Doorgah Singh had only three Sowars with
him, and the enemy outnmnbercd them twenty

RECENT SERVICES. 187

to one, aud the ground was unfavourable for
cavalry, but led away by his own headlong
courage, and unappalled by numbers, this brave
soldier refused to retire, and, with the two
Sowars who nobly stood by him, fell sword in
hand, after killing a great number of the enemy.
One Kosah Sowar only escaped with life, and
he was severely wounded.

Since that bloody encounter, now nearly
nine years ago, the border has been perfectly
tranquil, the predatory hill tribes never having
dared to make an inroad on territory so watched
and guarded as the north-west frontier.

In 1857, the 1st regiment of Sindh Horse,
mustering 800 sabres, embarked on the Persian
expedition, and during the Indian mutiny the
men of the Sindh Horse were as distinguished
for fidelity to Government as they ever pre-
viously had been for devoted gallantry in the
field.

In the year 1858, a third regiment was added
to this admirable soldiery, but alas, the north-
west frontier has lost the master spirit which
for years past has so ably and successfully held
in check the barbarous tribes that were 2^1'evi-
ously its scourge.

188 MIRZA ALI ACBAR KHAN BAHADUR.

Amongst those who served the Government
well during the stirring period of Sir Charles
Napier's command in Sindh, few men were
more distinguished than his own moonshee,
Mirza Ali Acbar Khan Bahadur, as appears by
His Excellency's mention of him in several
official j^apers, and especially in a speech at a
public dinner, just before he quitted India, as
follows : —

'' In the wars of Sindh there were some officers
who did more for me than I did for them. The
first I shall mention is Captain Brown of the
Bengal army, who is now dead ; a braver and
better soldier never lived. Of the second I
shall not say anything, as he is a relative of
mine, I mean Major McMurdo. But the third,
of whom I shall and will speak, is my moon-
shee, Ali Acbar ; this man stood by me in the
day of danger ; he was of the greatest assistance
to me throughout the campaign in Sindh ; he
was my tongue, and now I find him in dis-
grace. I am not aware upon what information
the Government has acted. I charge no man
with injustice, but I have a right to say that
Ali Acbar did more for the conquest of Sindh
than a thousand soldiers could have done. I

HIS CHARACTER AND SERVICES. 189

will never abandon a brave soldier ; and after
all Ali Acbar has done, I find him here in dis-
grace ; and, gentlemen " (said the General with
emphasis, and striking the table with his hand),
" I may say he had no trials

Ali Acbar had previously served as moon-
shee on the personal staff of Lord Kean through-
out the Afghan campaign, and was present at
the storming of Ghuznee. I feel no surprise at
Sir Cliarles Napier's eulogistic mention of Mirza
Ali Acbar, as when at Khyrpoor I was assured
that his services, after the surrender of the
Beloochee stronghold of Truckee, were of the
most important description, as contributive,
in a high degree, to the successful result of a
very difficult and dangerous mission to the
Murree cliief Deen Mahomed.

Ali Acbar is well known to many of tlie
most distinguished personages in England, as a
man of first-rate ability ; indeed, one of the
brightest ornaments of the British parliament
not very long since observed: " AVe need not
go beyond the walls of this house to find a head
bronzed by an Indian sun, equal to the ablest
heads that adorn its bcnclies." Such is Ali
Acbar !

190 ROREE.

Now, however, I shall quit the north-west
frontier, and conduct my reader back to Sukkur,
Bukkur, and Roree. There was formerly a
bridge of boats across the Indus at the latter
place, and a proposal for a suspension bridge
spanning the river between the towns of Sukkur
and Roree has been made to Government at an
estimated cost of five lakhs of rupees. It cer-
tainly is not likely, in the present exhausted
state of the Indian Government Treasury, that
so large a sum can be just now spared for tliis
purpose, but as the passage is much frequent-
ed, lying as it does on the junction of several
great roads, it is very necessary that some
better means for passing the river than those
at present in existence should be at once estab-
lished, for much inconvenience is experienced
by travellers at all hours of the day, but espe-
cially before sunrise and after sunset, when it is
impossible to procure a boat for hire. The fact
I believe is, that the boatmen earn so much
money between sunrise and sunset, that they
are indifferent about inconveniencing the public,
and, furthermore, they know that all passengers
who have occasion to cross must fall to the lot
of some of their fraternity. Roree and Sukkur

KAZEE JAN MAHOMED. 191

being on the high road from Jessulmeer to
Shikarpoor, and the traffic very great between
those cities, long strings of camels are at all
houi's to be seen waiting for a passage across
the river, which at best is a very troublesome
and lengthy business. Such a string of camels
did we on first visiting Roree find calmly seated
on the sand, not very far from the island of
Satee, and not knowing the way to tlie town
we followed a stream of Bunneeahs, or native
dealers, some three or four respectable-looking
Mahomedans, and a bevy of Kunchunnees [danc-
ing girls] with their attendant musicians, and
trudged across the ancle-deep sand to the steep
ascent to the town of Roree, a very ancient
place, standing on a rocky height overlooking
the Indus.

On inquiry for the house of Kazee Jan
Mahomed, one of the Meer's most trusted
servants, we were conducted up and down a
number of very intricate, steep, and narrow
streets, or rather lanes, which led to the dwell-
ing of that well-known individual. Some of
these thoroughfares were so narrow, that w^e
could scarcely find space to pass some rather
vicious-looking shc-bufiidocs whom we met on

192 HOUSE OF A NATIVE GENTLEMAN.

our way. At length, however, we reached our
friend's domicile, and were ushered into the
Dewan-i-aum, or Hall of Audience, a large apart-
ment, with an opening in the roof for the egress
of smoke. The Kazee and his brother were de-
lighted to see us, and we were speedily intro-
duced to several of the notables of the town.
This was the first native gentleman's house
tliat I had entered in Sindh, and I cannot say
that I was particularly struck with its appear-
ance. The furniture consisted of three Char-
poys, constructed of the commonest wood, and
coarsest string, the said Charpoys answering
for table, chair, couch, wardrobe, everything.
Over the string-bottom of each was laid a small
carpet, on which some sat a VAnglaise, but the
greater number in Eastern fashion ; all but my-
self were smoking the small pipe or Hubble-
bubble of the country, and I rather think that 1
was almost the only person in Sindh who was
not a smoker.

Roree, or Bunder Loharee as it was for-
merly called, is generally alluded to in con-
nection with Bukkur; indeed, the old people
to this day almost invariably speak of it as
Roree-Bukkur. Both places have for ages

THE JOOMA MUSGID. 193

been celebrated for their religious establish-
ments of Seyucls and holy men, with whose
tombs both banks of the river are studded, and
whose memories are still held in reverence.
The title '' Bukliur," which signifies in Arabic
" the dawn," is supposed to have been given by
a holy Seyud to the island so called, some
years after the erection of the fortress, for which
materials were furnislied from the ruins of the
old city of All ore. Roree is the head-quarters
of a Deputy Collectorate, but the European
functionaries reside over tlie river at Sukkur.
The town is remarkably clean, and was formerly
a place of some commercial importance, but its
palmy days have passed away, though an
attempt has been lately made to revive some of
its manufactures. The Jooma 3fus(/id, or Chief
Mosque of Roree, is the only public edifice
worthy of remark. This building, as appears
by an inscription therein, was erected by Futteh
Khan in the reign of the emperor Acbar, who
conquered Sindh in 1572. The author of Dry
Leaves from Young Egypt " is of opinion that
the change in the course of the Indus from
Allore to Roree actually took place in the year
341 A.H, corresponding with 925 A.D., and that

VOL. I. 13

194 EEMATNS OF ALLORE.

soon after the divergence of the stream the
population of Allore began to migrate to Roree.
This seems probable enough, but Allore must
still have been a city of some importance in the
reign of Acbar, as it is mentioned by Abul Fazel
in the Ayeen Alehery, as one of the twenty- eight
places which were then allowed the privilege of
a mint for copper coin. It may therefore, I
think, reasonably be inferred that Allore was
still considered the most important city in that
newly conquered Province, or tlie preference
would have been given to Roree or Sukkur.

Passinof the tomb-covered heiorhts above V\,o-
ree in an easterly direction for five miles or so,
one comes upon a bridge about 500 feet in
length, over what must have been a branch of
the Indus, though it never could have been the
main channel of the river. In the bed of this
channel are two stones, bearing an inscription
to the effect that they were set up by ]\Iahomed
Masum to mark the ancient course of the river.
The bridge itself was also probably built by
that munificent nobleman. A little beyond the
bridge is a miserable village, and farther on a
stony ridge covered with ruins, such being all
that now remains of Allore, or Arore, a Hindoo

BEAHMINABAD. 195

city of supposed great antiquity, and tlie seat
of Government of Upper Sindh, as Brahmin a-
bad was of Lower Sindh, prior to the Ma-
homedan invasion in the year of the Hegiree 93.
Abul Fazel in reference to this latter place
says, " In ancient times the capital was Brah-
minabad, which was then a very populous city.
The fort had 1400 bastions, a tenab distant
from each other; and to this day there are
considerable vestiges of this fortification." I
imagine that this must have reference to the
ruins of Kullian Kot, near Tatta, ^nd that
time and distance must have rather magnified
the extent of tliese fortifications in the imagina-
tion of the Emperor Acbar's wise minister.
Some, however, believe that Bambura, a ruined
city in tlie Delta, is the site of Brahminabad.
Amongst tlie ruins nothing is worthy of notice,
save an edifice called the mosque of Alumgeer,
and the tombs of two holy Seyuds which are
held in great veneration, Shukur Gunj Shah
and Khallfah Kootoobudeen Shah. The me-
mory of the former is held in reverent regard
by the people of the country around, who make
a pilgrimage to his tomb twice a month. These
Zeyaruts being to the great advantage of the

13«

196 SEYUDS OF ROREE.

resident villagers, who thus find a ready market
for the produce of their little farms in the neigh-
bourhood of the ruins.

Roree, like Sukkur^ is remarkable for the nu-
merous tombs which cover the heights behind
the town, and are many of them of great size
and beauty, being faced with caussee work, or
encaustic bricks of the brightest colours and
most enduring material, set in a vast variety of
patterns.

The Seyuds of Roree pretend to possess a
hair from the beard of their prophet, and the
people of the country firmly believe whatever
the Seyuds think fit to tell them. These
Seyuds are a privileged class ; indeed, were any
one to strike a Seyud he would probably be put
to death by the populace. Roree swarms with
them, and they are the most useless and lazy
members of the community, exercising a bane-
ful influence on the minds, whilst taxing the
pockets of the deluded people. Every evening
the streets swarm with Seyudnees, who wear a
loose white garment and a thick veil, and beg
from house to house. Notwithstanding their
professed sanctity, some of these ladies are,
however, said to be rather given to intrigue,

SACRED HAIR OF THE PROPHET. 197

wliicli their clrcss is well calculated to further.
The sacred hair of the prophet Mahomed, Mooe-
mooharuk, as it is called, is preserved in a golden
tube, or case, set with precious stones ; the hair
itself, wliich is only exhibited to the faithful,
^' on Fridays, for a consideration," is of a
flaming red colour. The Moojawur, who has
charge of the sacred hair, declares that it was
brought from Mecca, by an ancestor of his own,
323 years ago. The said person, being on a pil-
grimage, married a lady of influential connec-
tions, and her family presented him with the
sacred relic, as the most precious gift in their
power to offer, and the office of Moojawur has
descended from generation to generation to the
present incumbent, who exhibits the Mooe-mooha-
ruk on the appointed days, to the great advan-
tage of his own pecuniary interests, as the re-
cipient of all offerings of the faithful at the
shrine of the relic.

Roree, being situated at the junction of the
high roads from Hyderabad to Mooltan, and
from Jessulmeer to Shikarpoor, is likely to in-
crease in importance, as the traffic increases
between those points ; and whilst I was in
Sindh the number of camels that passed along

198 KOREE.

the first-named route far exceeded what had
ever been known before. The land revenue of
this extensive district is estimated at about three
lakhs of rupees per annum, and it was expected
that this would be somewhat increased, with
the completion of the permanent survey and set-
tlement in progress during my stay in Sindh.
Although the European officers of the district
reside on the opposite bank of the river, which
I think objectionable, the conservancy of the
town and its police are, I believe, unexception-
able, and although not a wealthy place, it cer-
tainly bears an appearance of comfort and
prosperity, superior to most native towns in
Sindh.

CHAPTEE VII.

A Belooch Official — Arrival at Khyrpoor— Mrs Gholaum Husseyn—
The Court of Khyrpoor — Meer Koostuni — Family Dissensions^
Meer Ali Moorad — Disregard of Bcloochee Feudalism and Clan-
ship— Dilapidated Appearauce of Khyrpoor — The Bazaar — Nar-
row Streets — Military Establishment of the Meer — Method of
Firing a Salute — Meer Ali Moorad's Beturn from Europe — Re-
joicings on his Arrival — An Illumination — The Dobagha — Beg-
gars and Seyudnees — Fii'st Introduction into Sindhian Society —
Meer Khan Mahomed — A Sindliian Entertainment — Beloochce
Habits at Table — Camel Biding — Hawking — Hawks in Use with
the Sindhiaus —Sindhian Promises — A Swearing Official — The
Meer's Stud — Projected Improvements.

The Meer having at length announced his
arrival in the neighbourhood of Khyrpoor, and
requested us to join him there, I sent instruc-
tions to his agent at Sukkur to provide us with
a DimcUj a large boat of the Indus, to take us
down the river to Nauchee, a favourite huntinir
spot of His Highness, where a large Landee, or
building of reeds, had been erected for his ac-
commodation. Tliere we found awaiting us
the Kardar, or head of the district of Bubburloo,

200 A BELOOCH OFFICIAL.

tlie frontier town in Meer AH Moorad's terri-
tory, who had horses in readiness for our use,
and asses to convey our baggage. This worthy
Kardar was the first specimen I had seen of a
Belooch official, and a very favourable specimen
he was ; being a large, good-looking man,
abounding in beard, with black curling locks
down to his shoulders. The weather being
cold, he wore an Afghan poshteen, or coat of
skin, with the fur side inwards, and handsomely
embroidered without, his costume being com-
pleted with long buff leather boots, likewise
embroidered. The Kardar' s manners were very
frank and pleasing, and he appeared anxious to
afford us every accommodation in his power.
At about 4 p. m. we mounted our horses, the
common yaboos of the country, and cantered
across the cultivated ground, till we got into
the high road from Roree to Hyderabad, which
runs nearly parallel to the river, and was
marked out and measured by order of Sir
Charles Napier. Passing some most productive-
looking land, and other which appeared as if
snow had lately fallen on it, from the crust of
saltpetre which covered the surface, we passed
the flourishing village of Th^rie, and soon after

ARRIVAL AT KHYRPOOR. 201

came in siglit of the capital of Upper Sindli.
A bright full moon lighted us into Khyrpoor,
and after wandering about for some time, both
our guide and Portuguese servant having drop-
ped into the rear, we had some difficulty in
finding out the place appointed for our dwell-
ing. At length, however, this was accomplished,
and we were conducted to Meer Sohrab's bunga-
low, as it is called, a ruinous old house facing
the parade. This mansion certainly wore a
very unpromising aspect, but the news of our
advent fast flying through the town, we soon
were supplied with fire, and food, and charpoys
to lie on, but no preparation whatever had been
made for us by the Meer's Moohtyar Kar, who,
with the other officials, being absent at His
Highness' camp, a few miles distant, we should
have fared but badly without the assistance of
one of his servants, Gholaum Husseyn, and his
little English wife, who was delighted to see
white faces again, and did her best to make us
comfortable. So after a hearty supper we rolled
ourselves up in our ruzzares, Anglice wadded
quilts, and blankets, for the weather was bitterly
cold, and lying down on our charpoys were
soon fast asleep.

202 KHYIIPOOR.

On awaking at daylight I confess tliat I
did not like the aspect of domestic affairs.
Oiir Portuguese servant, moreover, was sulky,
and disgusted with the appearance of things,
and well might he be so, poor fellow ; but
after a little while a bheesty, or water-car-
rier, a sweeper, and a scampish boy to run
of errands, were added to our establishment.
These cleaned out a room in our house, kin-
dled a large fire on the hearth, and having
most of the indispensables with us, we soon
achieved a tolerable breakfast. Shortly after
came a friendly letter from the Meer, saying ho
should be at home in the evening, when every-
thing we required would be provided, and all
possible attention paid to om' comfort ; the
messenger, moreover, brought a bag of rupees.
In the course of the morning arrived our friend
the Shahzada Sooltaun Jan, who, observing
that we had not a chair to sit on, very kindly
sent us a couple, with a sutrungee, or large cot-
ton carpet, for our sitting-room. From the
Shahzada we heard a deplorable, though, alas,
very correct, account of the Khyrpoor bazaar,
wherein neither fowls nor eggs were procm'able,
and the only meat to be found was of the most

KHYRPOOK. 203

uiiliealtliy complexion. This was somewhat a
disappointment after the Meer's couleur-de-rose
description of his capital, both as regards pro-
ductions and climate.

Amongst our other visitors was a very in-
telligent moonshee, who had just returned
from the Persian expedition, and was on his
way to see his family at Dejee Kot. Being
well acquainted with KhyrjDOor, we requested
him to accompany us in a ramble about the
town, and in our way gathered a good deal
of information. Khyrpoor, although it was
considered the capital of Upper Sindh, and the
seat of Government of one portion of the Tal-
poor family, must, in its best days, have been a
small and insignificant place ; albeit that seven-
teen Ameers, the sons and grandsons of His
Highness Meer Roostum, and his brother Meer
Moobarak Khan, resided there. The palace of
the sovereign is a mean building of one story,
containing at the end a large Dewan-i-Aum^ or
Hall of Audience, with private apartments be-
hind. The whole is in very dilapidated con-
dition, but coloured outside in a variety of
patterns, and erected on an elevated mound to
be out of reach of the inundation, which, when

204 MEER ROOSTUM.

at its height, floods all the lower grounds, and
rises to within a few feet of the walls ; indeed,
the waters have more than once threatened de-
struction to all Khyrpoor. Some other half-
dozen houses or so of the ex- Ameer's are still
standing, but the whole have a very tumble-
down appearance, and a vast assemblage of
roofless ruins, the walls alone being standing,
to the north of the principal dwelling, mark the
spot where, in former days, dwelt the court of
Khyrpoor. These buildings mostly stand Avithin
the crumbling walls of a mud fort, which never
could have been a place of any strength. The
principal building was the palace of Meer
Roostum, the eldest son of Meer Sohrab, whose
death, when upwards of ninety years of age,
was occasioned by a fall from a window in the
one that we occupied ; Meer Roostum thus be-
came head of the Khyrpoor Talpoors, and was
much beloved by his people. In early youth
he had been a gallant leader, and on one occa-
sion having obtained permission of his father,
Meer Sohrab, to attack Sukkur, which was then
held by the Afghans, he captured and sacked
tlie town. In his latter years Meer Roostum,
according to popular rumour, was much ad-

CHARACTER OF MEER ROOSTUM. 205

dieted to bhung, an intoxicating drink prepared
from the leaves, husks, and seeds of hemp,
ground and mixed up with water, milk and
other additions, — this is the pet tipple of Sindh-
ians, and whetlier the above rumour was well
founded or not, it is admitted by all that Meer
Roostum was an old man of the kindest disposi-
tion, and most dignified appearance and man-
ners. The likeness of this venerable prince in
"Dry Leaves from Young Egypt" was shown
by myself to many persons at Khyrpoor, all of
wliom declared it to be a most life-like picture.
In his latter years Meer Roostum was unequal
to state affairs, and allowed himself to be guided
in all things by Futteh Mahomed Glioree, his
very clever, though some say rather unscrupu-
lous, minister. Captain Postans, whom I believe
to have been an impartial biographer, thus
speaks of Meer Roostum :

' ' Meer Roostum having a large family includ-
ing no less than eight sons, intrigues at his
court embittered his latter days, by sowing the
seeds of dissension between him and his child-
ren. It would have been difficult to have found
in the whole territory of Sindli a man of a more
amiable or inoffensive private character, apart

206 FAMILY DISSENSIONS.

from the weaknesses peculiar to age, than this
venerable prince, whose grey hairs, fine coun-
tenance, and kind manners, always induced a
strong predilection in his favour from all who
were brought into communication with him :
he had, moreover, the additional merit of having
on every prior occasion met the propositions of
the various British authorities for increased com-
munication with and through his country with-
out a moment's hesitation ; but years and infirmi-
ties induced a carelessness as to the vital
interests of his Government, and he was latterly
beset by designing counsellors, whose short-
sighted policy and ambitious views of self-
aggrandisement plunged this prince into con-
stant difficulties and family broils. In mutual
distrusts, intrigues, dissensions, and family
quarrels, the Khyrpoor family assimilated com-
pletely to their brethren in Lower Sindh, and
latterly became even worse ; Meer Roostum was,
it is true, respected and even beloved by his
court and all classes of his subjects, but it re-
quired here, as at Hyderabad, an active head to
unravel the petty, though tangled, web of an
Indian Durbar, and keep it in an}i:hing like
order. An old man in his dotage, and addicted

MEER ALT MOORAD. 207

to opiates and intoxicating stimulants, was
little able to play so important a part, and at his
court were some of the most restless and intri-
guing characters in Sindh. The consequence
was a general dismemberment of the family,
and at the old chief's death, which in the course
of nature might be soon expected, it is highly
probable the Hyderabad authority in the olden
state of affairs, but, according to late arrange-
ments, the British Government, would have
had to settle the question of succession to his
possessions ; his younger brother about to be
introduced was looking with anxious eye to
seize the lion's share. His next brother, Meer
Moobaruck, died in 1839, leaving a large family
of five sons, the eldest of whom, Nusir Khan,
inherited the greater portion of his father's pro-
perty, sufficient provision being made for his
brothers. Gholaum Hyder, tlie son of Meer
Tarah, was another member of this branch, but
his younger brother, Meer AH Moorad, is the
most distinguished character of the Khyrpoor
family, possessing unbounded ambition and
great tact, combined with considerable talent :
this prince was always proud, consistent, and
unswerving in his purpose of Independence and

208 CHARACTER OF THE MEER.

aggrandisement. In person, Meer Ali Moorad
is remarkably handsome, dark complexioned,
and about forty years of age ; his mother is said
to have been of the Beloochee tribe of Murrees,
which may account for his possessing unusual
swarthiness. The general bearing of this chief
is singularly dignified, courteous, and pre-
possessing ; but while distinguished for the
accomplishments usual in the East, he is un-
fortunately addicted to the wine-cup, and
indulges somewhat too freely in the enticing
liquors forbidden by the Koran. At present
however these habits, although existing, do not
appear to affect either the health or character of
the Meer, who is in the pride of manhood, with
a clear, intelligent mind, which up to the present
time has been quite capable of coping with tlie
difficulties of his position. And his countenance
does not yet betray any of those distressing
appearances of undue indulgence in the common
stimulants of the East, which never fail to set
their stamp upon the features of those who
indulge in such means of self-abasement. Meer
Ali Moorad has always evinced the greatest
jealousy at any interference in his affairs, and
has stood aloof from the Beloochee clanship,

BELOOCHEE FEUDALISM. 209

which prevails in both the Hyderabad and
Khyrpoor families. His retainers, Kardars,
men of business, are foreigners, and his troops,
of whom he keeps a considerable standing force,
are composed entirely of mercenaries from Hin-
dustan, Cabool, the Punjaub, and Bhawulpoor.
Beloochee feudalism forms a secondary part of
his system, and thus was completely at variance
with the usage of his country, and he has thus
stood in an isolated position, as it were, from
his brother chiefs. It is easy to perceive that
ambition must, in the first instance, have in-
duced Ali Moorad to pursue a policy so dia-
metrically opposed to the form of government
and practices of his forefathers, and he, proba-
bly, anticipated some rupture at the Hydera-
bad or Khyrpoor courts, when he would have
made a dash, aided by foreign troops, at the
power of the whole; such plans, if devised,
would have hardly succeeded, but latterly he
became closdy connected with the British Go-
vernment, and his views, if they were so di-
rected, were unexpectedly matured, and pro-
duced a premature result he could formerly
have little anticipated, as will be understood
hereafter."

VOL. I. 14

210 DILAPIDATED STATE OF KHYRPOOR.

But to return to my cicerone, the moonshee :
'' There, Sahib," said he, pointing to the princi-
pal bungalow, ''Meer Roostum always presided
in the durbar, and what between his own sons
and those of Meer Moobaruk, and Futteh Ma-
homed Ghoree and his sons, for all regularly
attended the durbar, that Detvaii-i-Aum was
j)retty well filled, and petitioners, or others
having business with the prince, sat on the
cJmlootra, or platform outside, as did the inferior
moonshees." An appearance of poverty and
shabbiness seems however to have pervaded
the whole, which showed the unsatisfactory
state of the treasury ; but so simple were the
habits of the sovereign and his com^tiers, that
had not the revenues been frittered away by
jagheers, and grants to relatives and hangers-
on, they would more than have sufficed to cover
all expenditure, but as it was, the Meer's in-
come was barely sufficient to cover his personal
expenses. '' As compared with the present
state of things, however," continued the moon-
shee, " Khyrpoor was then a prosperous city —
all those houses [pointing to the crumbling and
roofless walls] were occupied by the Ameers
and their retainers, whose expenditure caused

THE BAZAAR. 211

the bazaar to be flourishing and prosperous, and
Kunchunnees* could then be counted by the
score, covered with jewels, whilst now the city
does not contain half a dozen, and those half-
starved."

The city of Kh}n'poor stands in a well-culti-
vated plain, surrounded by fine gardens ; its
bazaar extends from north to south for a few
hundred yards, and passing a lofty gateway
turns eastward for about the same distance,
some small streets branching off from the main
one. The shops are miserably poor, as Meer
Ali Moorad is never at Khyrpoor for more than
three days together; indeed, when he does
honour the capital with his presence, his ill-
paid retainers are by no means welcome in the
bazaar, as their purchases are generally made
on credit, if they can get it, which is hardly to
be wondered at, when it is considered that their
pay is generally six or eight months in arrear.
The Mooldyar Kar, or Prime Minister, the Mcer
Moonshee, and one or two other well-j^aid offi-
cials only, ever reside at Khyrpoor, and the
town being destitute of trade, everybody in it,
save some few wealtliy Hindoos, has the most

* Dancing girls.
14 ♦

212 NARROW STREETS.

poverty-stricken appearance. The only public
building is a very shabby-looking mosque,
covered with lacquered tiles in lamentable dis-
repair. The streets of Khyrpoor are so nar-
row that in many places there is barely room
for two carts to pass each other in the principal
thoroughfares ; but carts are not numerous, and
the Meer's old phaeton is the only carriage in
His Highness' dominions, which is fortunate, as,
requiring more space than a cart, there must,
inevitably, be a dead-lock if a second vehicle of
equal size were encountered. Meer Shah No-
waz, too, is a very Jehu in coachmanship, and
on one occasion his furious driving nearly
cost me my life. At a sudden turn we were
all but over an old woman, and to save her
the prince di'ove over the steps of a house door,
the mares being at the time beyond control, and
all but running away. The carriage tm^ned
right over, and I was underneath ; Meer Shah
Nowaz was projected like a shell from a mortar,
and escaped unhurt, but I was severely cut and
bruised, and probably should have been killed,
had not the horse-keepers and two silver sticks
in front stopped the mares at the moment.
Some few Hindoos have tolerable houses, and

MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT OF THE MEER. 213

one or two Mahomedans, to whom Jaghecrs
have been granted, by reason of Meer AH
Moorad having married their sisters, who were
Kunchunnees, or dancing girls, previously. The
population of the place was formerly estimated
at fifteen thousand, but does not now amount to
one-third that number, and the inhabitants
generally have an unhealthy, aguish look, and
suffer much from that disease on the abatement
of the inundation, from the number of hollows
in and about the town, wherein the water re-
mains stagnant, until evaporated by heat. The
drinking water too is generally brackish, except
in one particular well. The Ameers, I was
told, always had water brought from the Indus
for their own drinking, and when the Meerwa
canal was full, its water was preferred to that
of the wells.

After perambulating Khyrpoor in all direc-
tions we terminated our excursion at the parade,
where the Mcer's artillery were in readiness
to fire a salute on the arrival of His High-
ness, who was momentarily expected. Four
small guns, in indifferent condition, were \)a-
raded, and the Moor's standard was displayed,
its colours being green and orange. The guns

214 THE MEER's return from EUROPE.

were manned by twenty-five Golundauze, Pun-
jaubees, and Hindustanees, and fine trustworthy
old soldiers they seemed to be. They fire a
salute very respectably, but I had no opportu-
nity of testing their expertness as artillerists.
The artillery are under command of Mr Francis
Feeney, a very worthy and estimable European,
who is well known to, and respected by, all the
inhabitants of Khyrpoor. He also presides
over the city Udaulut, and was English tutor
to Meer Shah Nowaz, the heir-apparent. The
foot soldiers, who have been reduced in num-
ber to fifty, are Rohillas and Khorassanees,
armed with swords and blunderbusses, which
last do good service in a hattiie, from the tre-
mendous noise they make on being discharged,
but are hardly calculated for modern warfare.
His Highness' Horse were all out in camp, so I
had no opportunity of insj^ecting them until
afterwards.

Meer Ali Moorad's arrival at his capital, after
returning from Euroj^e, was marked by public
rejoicings; a double royal salute was fired as
he entered Khyrpoor shortly after sunset ; the
city was illuminated in honour of his advent,
and the afi'ectionate recejDtion that he experi-

THE DOBAGHA. 215

enced from the peoj^le of all castes and grades
was most toiicliing. The Meer was attended
by a numerous cavalcade, all of whom, not ex-
cepting his own sons, dismounted at the en-
trance gate, the Meer alone riding up the slope
to the edge of the durbar carpet. There His
Highness also dismounted. Some of his princi-
pal officers were honoured with an embrace on
meeting them, especially his Wukeel, Hafiz
Hookoomut Khan. Many of the inferior classes
threw themselves at their sovereign's feet, and
embraced them, and he had a kind word for
all ! After a few minutes' conversation witli

Mr I and myself, His Highness invited us

to breakfast at the Dohagha^ a favourite garden,
which was formerly the Khyrpoor Residency,
and is situated just outside the town. The
Meer then proceeded to visit his mother, whom
he always treats with the greatest respect and
honour; also the mother of his two younger
sons, the latter being a lady of vast propor-
tions. Of course I state this on hearsay, though
not exactly on hearsay alone, having had an
opportunity of seeing a portion of her apparel,
termed sootane, which is Sindhi for inexpressi-
bles, and formed part of a suit, whicli Her

216 BEGGARS AND SEYUDNEES.

Highness presented to little Mrs Gholaunij the
Englishwoman before mentioned, as married
to one of the Meer's suite, who displayed them
to Mr I and myself in wonder and admira-
tion, for verily the garment would have been a
goodly fit for the late Monsieur Lablache !

On the following morning we, after a slight
breakfast, proceeded to the Dohagha, which Is
just across the Meerwa canal, then a deep bed
of dry sand. On our way we found the streets
swarming with beggars and Seyudnees, the lat-
ter being holy women, who profess never to un-
cover their faces. These were awaiting a dis-
tribution of the flesh of several buffaloes which
had just been killed to feed the poor. The
Dohagha, a fine garden of many acres of mango,
orange, lemon, and pomegranate trees, contains
the walls of the former Residency, an excellent
house in the English style, but now gone to
ruin. Here we found an immense crowd as-
sembled to receive His Highness, Ameers, Tayee-
fahs of dancing girls, an Afghan prince, Moon-
shees, and musicians, all expectant of notice,
preferment, and reward : a couple of tents had
been pitched for His Highness' accommodation,
and a Landee, or temporary edifice of reeds,

MEER KHAN MAHOMED. 217

erected, wherein to hold a durbar. A large
carpet was spread throug-hout the Landee, and
at the upper end was placed a charpoy or couch,
which in Sindh does duty for a throne.

This was my first introduction into Sindhian
society, and I was almost stunned with affection-
ate inquiries after my "health," ''happiness,"
''perfect happiness,'' "contentment," "entire
contentment," &c. ; the said inquiries being prof-
fered in a tone of such intense interest that one
could almost imagine them to be sincere ! Of
course, too, I had to reply in kind, and I was not
sorry for interruption, in the arrival, at a sharp
gallop, of Meer Khan Mahomed, His Highness'
youngest son, an extraordinarily "fat boy" of
fifteen, who announced that his father was close
at hand ; and the Meer, who had been out hunt-
ing, almost immediately rode into the garden,
looking exceedingly well. His Highness, as I
have before said, is a large man, of most noble
presence, which he is quite aware of, and aims
at effect. He rides gracefully, quite in the
English style, and was tastefully dressed in a
tightly fitting tunic of green velvet, with gold
filigree buttons, and a small coronet-shaped
cap. On dismounting, he shook hands with us

218 A SINDHIAN ENTERTAINMENT.

in a most friendly manner, gave a gracious
greeting to all present, and then invited Mr

I and myself into his khilwut, or private

tent, for the purpose of discussing his own
affairs, as we had been separated for some
weeks from him. After giving me some brief
instructions regarding letters, we returned to
the durbar tent, and in a few moments break-
fast was placed before him. The Meer, who
had previously been seated on his state charpoy,
descended to the carpet, on which he squatted,
with his sons and relatives at either side and
in front of him. The meal appeared to be
both rich and substantial ; roast partridges, cut-
lets of the para, or hog-deer, with a variety of
pillaos, both sweet and savoury, formed the staple
of the feast. These were served partly in
dishes of English make, that had once been
plated, partly in copper dishes, such as are used
by the commonest natives. Each of the convives
helped himself and fed with his hand, for knives,
forks, and spoons are unknown conveniences
at the Khyrpoor banquets, and His Highness
appeared to have forgotten the use of such
things. In England no one could behave with
more propriety at table than Meer Ali Moorad,

A SINDHIAN ENTERTAINMENT. 219

but now that he was once more in Sindh, he
resumed his Belooch habits, especially that one
which Don Quixote exhorted Sancho Panza to
forego, on taking charge of his Government.
His Highness joining after breakfast in those
salvos, which, however, unmelodious to English
ears, and incompatible with English ideas of
breeding, are very differently looked on by
Orientals, and are indulged in accordingly,
especially after a hearty breakfast, each indi-
vidual in the same breath uttering the ejacula-
tion of " Ul-humd-o-lillah" Thanks be to God, in
token of the satisfaction that he experienced.
After breakfast the Meer gave audience to some
of his principal officers, and then summoned his
musicians, who had recently arrived from Bom-
bay, to delight his friends mth their enchanting
strains. His Highness afterwards retired to his
private tent to enjoy his midday slumber, and
we returned to our bungalow. In the afternoon
we attended the Meer out hawking, and very
good sport we had at partridge, plover, and
curlews, the common green plover, or peewit,
affording better sport than the other birds. On
this occasion I was mounted on one of the
Meer's best riding-camels, the pace of which I

220 CAMEL RIDING.

found reiT.arkably smootli and easy, even when
moving at its fleetest trot, and for travelling a
camel is far less fatiguing than a horse. I
speak though of the best description of riding-
camel only, as the paces of baggage-camels are
exceedingly rough and unpleasant to the rider.
The best riding-camels are procured from Mi-
kran, and their speed and powers of endurance
are very great. The camel-saddle of Sindh is
extremely comfortable, being covered with a
soft well-padded saddle-cloth. The saddle is
divided into two compartments, so as to accom-
modate as many persons, — the master gener-
ally sitting behind, having in front the servant,
who guides the animal by a cord fastened to a
piece of wood that passes through the nostril.
The attitude of a camel when rising is very un-
pleasant to a rider unaccustomed to it ; as the
camel first raises its hind-quarters, and one feels
as if about to fly over the animal's head. For
hawking, a horse is far preferable to a camel,
as the quarry occasionally leads one a smart
gallop. Meer Ali Moorad's hawks are, some of
them, very fine, and he spares no expense to
obtain the best procurable from Khorassan and
other countries.

HAWKS USED IN SINDH.

221

Sir Alexander Burnes gives the following list of
Falcons and Hawks in use with the Sindhians :

Jagger (Lagliar), Female.
Jagger (Jaghar), Male.

Baz (Shahbaz), Female.
Zorru (Jurrah), Male.

Cliurgh,
Churghela,

Female.
Male.

A large long-winged
hawk, native of
Siudh, with dark
eye. This bird is
much used in
Sindh, for quail,
partridge, curlew,
bustard, and hares.
After the season is
over, hawks of this
description are
turned loose.

King of the hawks —
a large gi'ey Gos-
hawk with yellow
eyes, from Khoras-
san. A noble bird,
very strong and
active, costs 50 or
60 nipees when
well trained.

A native of Cutlice,
used for hunting

222

HAWKS USED IN SINDH.

Bashu,
Basliee,

Bhairl,
Shah en,

the antelope and
tuloor, or floriken.

Female. Native of Khorassan.

Male. Goolab eye, small,

short- winged
hawks, with dark
plumage ; are

much valued, as
killing hawks.

Female. The Falcon. Sir A.

Male. Burnes states that

this bird is not
prized in Sindh ;
but this is a mis-
take, for I know
that it is highly
prized for strength
and boldness.

They are flown at
partridges, hares,
bustards, curlews,
herons, and saras,
or cranes, which
stand fidl 6 feet
high. These are
long-winged

THE SHIKKAH.

223

Koheela,

X UiUcUU.

Male.

ZoorooratiSj

Female.

Chalway,

Male.

Shiki'ah,

Female.

Cliij^pak,

Male.

hawks, or bii'ds of
the lure.
Also called Shaheen.

Native of Sindh.

Native of Sindh ; are
very similar to the
English sparrow-
hawk, and are kill-
ing birds at par-
tridges, but of
small value.
The long- winged falcons swoop from the air
upon their quarry with the rapidity of lightning,
and strike it to the earth, whilst the short-
winged hawks pursue the game in a horizontal
line with much rapidity, and kill it by strength
of wing. The Shikrah is, says Burton, flown at
his game in this wise: being unhooded and held
daintily in the falconer's hand, so as not to
ruffle his plumage, he is, as it were, bowled
after the game as it rises, and in half a minute
the partridge's career is ended, the birds close,
''Luga, Luga !" '' Struck, Struck ! '' shout a score
of voices, down they come, victor and victim,

224 HAWKING.

but the quarry undermost and concealed from
view almost by the outspread wings of the hawk,
which fiercely pecks at the dying partridge.
''Ao bucha," ''Come, my child," cries the falcon-
er in a tender tone of endearment, and turning
the poor partridge on its back, draws his knife
across its throat, says the "bismilla," without
which animal life is never taken, then splitting
the head of the partridge, he gives the brains
to the hawk, and occasionally the heart and
breast. The partridge, in open ground, sel-
dom holds up above a minute, but where
there are thorn bushes it sometimes baffles its
pursuer for half an hour. Grey partridges are
looked on as unclean birds, from preferring to
feed on the roads rather than the grain-fields.
The hda tetiir^ or black partridge, is a splendid
bird, about the size of a hen pheasant, its
plumage somewhat resembling the English star-
ling, every feather being dotted with silvery
white. The cock birds have long spm"s, by
which sometimes the hawks are injm-ed in a
death struggle. In a very short time the little
Shikrahs had killed each five or six partridges,
in the whole about twenty brace, when the
Meer turned off towards some low ground, with

SPORT WITH A PLOVER. 225

tall thick trees about it. There we soon flushed
a green plover, which appeared in an agony of
fear the moment that the little basha, or shikrah,
was bowled at him,* and shrieks of "peewit,
peewit," filled the air, but the plover would not
give in " without a squeak for it." The quarry
made for the nearest tree, as once within the
shelter of its branches he felt secure, and sure
enough would there find safety, if the falconers
were not to interfere, but sticks and stones were
showered into the branches, and the poor pee-
wit was di'iven to seek other shelter ; again and
again the hawk stooped at him, but each time
missed her victim by its rapid movements. At
length the poor plover began to show symptoms
of fatigue; his movements became less rapid,
the hawk discovered the distress of her victim,
and at length closed and brought the plover to
the ground. One of these birds gave us capital
sport for a full quarter of an hour of incessant
movement. When the sun had almost disap-
peared we entered some low grass-grounds
where curlew abounded, two or three of which
were killed, and amongst the number a king-
curlew, a very handsome bird with a crimson
* Burton.

VOL. I. 15

226 SINDHIAN PROMISES.

crown, but none of them afforded sport ; by this
time it had become too dark to fly the hawks,
so we returned to Khyrpoor. We should, proba-
bly, have accomplished more during the after-
noon, had not the Meer repeatedly stopped to
hold conversation with the villagers, who came
out to congratulate him on his safe retm^n, and
prefer requests on the subject of wells, &c.
They certainly, on leaving him, appeared well
satisfied with the assurances of their sovereign,
though whether those promises have ever been
fulfilled is anotlier affair, for Sindhians, whether
prince or peasant, have, probably, as little re-
gard for truth as any people in the world ; in-
deed, a political officer, in reporting upon the
different members of the Khyrpoor dm-bar,
states, in reference to Meer Zungee, a relative
of Meer Ali Moorad, that the particular duty of
this Meer is to swear to the fulfilment of any
promise that His Highness Meer Ali Moorad
thinks fit to make. If this be really a fact, Meer
Zungee could have had no sinecure of his office !
Shortly after Meer Ali Moorad's return, a let-
ter was received from Mr Brunton, Superintend-
ing Engineer of the Punjaub Railway, request-
ing permission for a day's shooting for himself

MR BRUNTON. 227

and assistants. The Meer, who is ever courteous,
especially to English gentlemen, directed me to
send off a Sowar to Sukkur, where tlie railway
staff were halted, with a letter of invitation for
them to join him on the following day, and
several of them accordingly came over to break-
fast. Unfortunately, we were not in very good
shooting ground; however, Mr Brunton made a
tolerable bag, and His Highness pressed him to
remain till next day, when we were to beat his
favourite moharees on the island opposite
Nauchee. Mr Brunton had, however, sent on
his tents and baggage one stage on the way to
Mooltan ; thus he was unable to avail himself of
the Meer's hospitality, which I was very sorry
for, as to fall in with so clever and agreeable a
man as Mr Brunton was no ordinary acquisi-
tion in the Sindh jungles.

On the following morning, I was informed
that His Highness had ordered breakfast at a
certain well about six miles distant, and pre-
sently a horseman came galloping in from camp
to say that he desired my attendance as soon as
possible. Accordingly I proceeded there, and
found the Meer sitting in a very small tent
with his Mooktyar Kar, Moorad Khan, Hote

228 THE meer's stud.

Singh J and Kissun Dass, the head moonshee.
After a brief conversation, His Highness in-
formed me that the commissioner would be at
Sukkur in four days, and that he wished me to
prepare a memorandum of the different subjects
on which he proposed addressing that high
functionary, respecting his future management
of the Khyrpoor state. The Meer, finding that
the darogha of the stable had given me a
wretched horse, directed that I should be pro-
vided with a fine grey Turcoman, fully equal to
my weight, with splendid action, and, as I after-
wards found, great powers of endurance, for on
one occasion I was eight hours in the saddle,
and most part of the time in a smart canter.
Meer Ali Moorad has a very fine stud of horses,
to which he added half a dozen first-rate Arabs
on passing through Bombay, and in his selec-
tion of them he seemed to be a good judge, ac-
cording to our English ideas of a horse's points,
figure, and action. The Meer's horses, as all
others in Sindh, are invariably kept saddled
during the day. This practice is supposed to
harden the skin and render it less liable to gall,
and I believe that it has that efiect ; at any rate
sore backs are rare, except with the yahoos of

GROOMING IN SINDH. 229

the followers, which are scantily fed and much
overloaded. The Meer's horses consume a great
deal of grain, or at least have the credit of do-
ing so, though, as every horsekeeper has a
yaboo of his own, I suspect that a portion of
the horse's feed falls to the yahoo's share. The
evening feed is six seers, or about three-quarters
of a peck of j'ow, or barley, but occasionally
biissee or maize ; and in tlie morning, after water-
ing, each horse gets his niharee, or breakfast,
consisting of one pound of flour, one pound of
goor, or coarse sugar, and the like quantity of
ghee, clarified butter. This is made up into
balls, and when accustomed to the diet, after a
few days' use, horses become very fond of the
mixture, which fattens them prodigiously. After
the niharee the bridles are put on, and the
horses stand for an hour or two before grass is
given to them. When horses are not required
for work, they never get walking exercise in
Sindh ; however, they seem to digest their food
well, and their legs never swell at their pickets.
Gripes and worms seem to be the most preva-
lent diseases amongst them. For the former
a large dose of melted ghee is administered;
for the latter a small dose of mercury, which

230 HARNESS.

medicine seems to be a good deal in use amongst
the Sindhians. The Sindh saddle is somewhat
like that of our Hussars ; it is very strong,
simple in its construction, and has an equal
pressure on the back of the horse, which is
covered with a thick numdah [felt] to prevent
galling. This saddle is very comfortable to
the rider, being covered with a pad or cushion,
which renders it next to impossible for the
rider to be thrown. The pads of the Ameers
are covered with velvet, or rich brocade, those
of inferior persons with gaudy-coloured chintz,
and beneath the saddle is generally a housing
of scarlet, embroidered with bright yellow silk.
The bridles are generally a simple headstall of
leather, with a large, easy snaffle-bit, and the
consequence is that a hard mouth is unknown
in the country. Standing martingales are al-
ways used, as by the horsemen in India. The
horses are generally very quiet, probably from
being much handled and petted by their riders.
Meer Ali Moorad has some brood mares, which
exhibit blood, but are not of a build likely to
produce powerful offspring. His Highness has
also some fine mules, of good size and figure,
but they are mostly used as baggage- animals,

THE meee's camp. 231

and not for riding. The Meer's horses are not
generally shod ; indeed, shoes are almost un-
necessary where stones are so rarely met with
as in His Highness' territory. The asses of
Sindh are even smaller than those of India, but
the white ass of Khorassan is a very superior
animal, and costs from 70 to 100 rupees.

Having made a Persian translation of the
memorandum that I had prepared for Meer Ali
Moorad, and of which he had approved, assur-
ing me he woidd carry out the several changes
therein mentioned, I mounted my new steed,
and taking a carpet-bag, with writing materials
and a few necessaries, cantered off to camp,
which I found very near the place where His
Highness had halted on the j^revious day. He
had not, however, returned from hunting, and
thus I had ample time to look about me. No-
thing could be more unpretending than the
tents of Meer Ali Moorad and his sons; the
former was a very small two-poled tent, with
barely room for his charpoy at one end, and it
contained no other furniture. The only mark
of superiority was a kanaut, or screen, forming
an enclosure about it ; his sons' tents were
pitched here and there as fancy dictated, and

232 PKOJECTED IMPKOVEMENTS.

were even inferior to that of their father. A
small single-poled tent was assigned to Mr

I and myself, and we were informed that

the Meer's servants would furnish all that we
required. After some delay we obtained a
couple of charpoys,* and having had a wash,
awaited His Highness' arrival. The Meer had
that morning enjoyed excellent sport, and was
in proportionately good-humour in consequence.
After breakfast I attended him in his khilwiit^
and submitted thje memorandum that I had pre-
pared. It was much to the following purpose in
spirit : viz. that the Meer, when in England,
had viewed the institutions of our country with
admiration and wonder, and so soon as his
means admitted would gladly introduce im-
provements in his own territory.

That His Highness felt peculiarly anxious for
the advancement of his subjects in the matter of
education, and intended to establish vernacu-
lar schools, similar to those which the commis-
sioner had established throughout the jjrovince.
His Highness had, indeed, authorized me to
write to Major Goldsmid on the subject of mas-
ters and books, and I had done so.

* Bedsteads.

PROJECTED IMPROVEMENTS. 233

That the want of medical aid and medicines
was sorely felt by the j^eople of his comitry
when fever prevailed, and that he proposed
applying for the services of a native doctor
from the Medical College of Bombay, with a
view to establishing a dispensary for the gratui-
tous distribution of medicines to the sick poor
of Khyrpoor.

That he was aware of the inconvenience that
European travellers sustained in passing through
his dominions, and proposed causing the erec-
tion of a bungalow at each stage.

That with a view to the improvement of his
country, he had procured trees and seeds from
Egypt and Bombay, and had commissioned
some from Europe; besides inviting an indigo
manufacturer fr^om Madras for the pm'pose of
improving the manufacture of indigo in Sindli,
the people of which province do not understand
the process, as practised in those districts of
India where the best indigo is made.

All this the Meer subsequently assured me lie
had stated to the commissioner, who had ex-
pressed his satisfaction, and I believe that he
did so.

CHAPTER yill.

Hare chased by a Hawk — A Vocal Revcill6 — Hunting Cavalcade —
Afghan Greyhounds — Description of the Moharee, or Hunting-
ground — A Battue — Tlie Meer's Family — Official Misstatements
— Meer Shah Nowaz Khan— Meer Jehan Mahomed— The Fat
Boy of the Family — Matrimonial Arrangements — Ladies of the
Meer's Family — Domestic Habits of the Zunana — The Toilette —
Conversation of the Ladies — The Meer's Neglect of his Wives —
Talpoor Dynasty — The Jungle — Hog-hunting — The Camp — Chief
Commissioner's State Visit — Napier's Interview with Meer All
Moorad — Noble Character of that General.

In tlie afternoon we went out again with the
hawks, and had good sport, I for the first time
seeing a hare chased by them. Poor pussy
though had no chance. The kind of hawk
flown was the Laghar, a fine long- winged hawk,
which when sHpped at the hare struck one
claw into the fur of its back, and with the other
grappling a tuft of grass soon brought the timid
fugitive to a stand. In "this chase there is some
danger of the hawk being split up by the vio-
lence of the jerk when it clutches the grass to

A VOCAL REVEILLE. 235

stop the hare.* The Meer and all his people
were in ecstasies at the performance of the
lagliar^ which was a young bird, and Beloochees
cannot control their excitement at siglit of
such a chace; in fact, it is said that they ''love
hawking best of anything after thieving." As
we retm'ned to camp, the Meer assured me that
I should see some good sport with the hog next
morning. We accordingly went to bed early,
directing our servant to awake us at the first
peep of day ; however, the cold was so severe
that I was awake some time before any one
was stirring in camp. The first intimation that
I had of the approach of day was the chanting
of a Faquii' in the direction of the Meer's tent ;
presently an opposition performer joined in the
vocal reveill(5, which lasted for about a quarter
of an hour. During this time I huddled on my
clothes as fast as possible, for the morning was
bitterly cold, aroused our servant Fyze Ma-
homed, and taking a draught of milk and a
biscuit, sallied forth and went over to tlie Meer's
tent. Outside the enclosure was seated a min-
strel, strumming on a guitar with tinkling wire
strings, whilst a damsel, with rather a musical

* Burton.

236 HUNTING CAVALCADE.

voice, was entertaining her sovereign with
lyrics in his own praise. Within the enclosure
we found a dozen or so of falconers, with the
Meer's favourite hawks, his immediate personal
attendants, besides the Meer-moonshee, or chief
secretary, and the Mooktyar Kar ; and as soon
as His Highness' toilet was finished, which
occupies some time, the order to mount was
given. I was directed to lead the way, as my
horse has a tendency to fighting with others,
and the Meer is rather nervous on that point.
An Afghan Jemadar, with about a dozen well-
mounted Sowars, formed the Meer's body-guard.
The Jemadar was one of the handsomest men I
ever saw, and one of the finest riders. I cannot
though speak favourably of the appearance of
His Highness' mounted troops ; in fact, with few
exceptions, they are a rabble, very like what
the Pindarries were of old, and like them in
their habits too, — their miserable-looking
horses possessing astonishing powers of en-
durance, and making marches of 50 or 60 miles
without a halt. The hill Beloochees, who lived
by plunder, were mounted on small mares of
high blood, accustomed to long abstinence fi'om
water, and to subsist on scanty forage, and fed

TROOPS IN ATTENDANCE. 237

at times on raw meat, which is known to impart
strength to animals so fed. When compelled
to fight, which they generally sought to avoid,
the Beloochees dismounted, drew their swords,
sharp as razors, and covering themselves with
their shields, rushed upon the foe in tlie most
determined manner, crouching as they ran, and
thrusting their protruded shields in the faces of
their assailants, at the same time covering their
own heads with them, whilst their swords cut
through everything. As soon as we were clear
of the camp, a hundred wild horsemen spread
out like skirmishers at full gallop to start the
game. Very few of these men are Beloocliees,
as the Meer prefers foreigners to his own tribe
as soldiers, and such was always his system
when he had a considerable standing army.
His troops are mostly Pathans from Bhawul-
jDOor, or Rohillas from Mooltan, or perhaps
Khorassanees, armed with sword and shield, and
clothed in Chogas, or robes of coarse brown
woollen cloth from Afghanistan. As the caval-
cade proceeds, and a very picturesque cavalcade
it is, from the variety of figures, prominent
amongst which is the Meer himself, a magnifi-
cent specimen of Oriental royalty, with his four

238

AFGHAN GREYHOUNDS.

sons, fine, handsome youths, in attendance on
their father, followed by a hundred or so of
horsemen, or camel-riders. As the cavalcade
proceeds, I say, up flies a partridge, away goes
a hawk and clutches it in a moment ; or, per-
haps, the dogs are slipped at some of the innu-
merable hares that start up under our feet.
The dogs employed are generally large Af-
ghan greyhounds, tolerably swift and abundant-
ly savage. At length we reach the Moharee, or
hunting-ground, and of this I must give a brief
description. These Moharees are triangular
portions of a jungle, enclosed and divided
thus : —

The beaters, with fire-arms, tomtoms, or
drums, horns, &c., are put into the Moharee at
the wide end, beating the jungle towards the

THE MOIIAREE. 239

apex of the triangle. The jungle is divided by
strong thorn fences, impassable to wild animals,
except at an opening left at the apex ; and
knowing this to be a road of escape, the animals
make for it. Near these openings are small
raised huts, strongly constructed, cailedKoodnees,
or shooting-lodges. These huts are covered in,
and afford complete shelter from the weather;
and into them the sportsmen ascend by a ladder
of four or five steps, to be out of reach of a
wounded boar. In one of these the Meer placed
himself, seated on a Zeenposh, or saddle-cloth,
the horses being left at a short distance outside.
On a signal being given a perfect army of beat-
ers advanced towards us from the upper end of
the Moharee, firing guns, beating tomtoms, and
shouting, being accompanied by numerous dogs.
After a short time movements in the long grass
betokened the approach of some animal, and
when our impatience was at boiling pitch, a
couple of mangy-looking jackals sneaked past.
All was then quiet for a time ; but the clattering
of hoofs is heard, the Meer cocks his rifle, and
in another second three Paras, or Hog-deer — a
buck and two does, make their appearance,
trotting towards us ; - they stop for an instant to

240 A BATTUE.

listen when at a distance of about sixty yards ;
but that instant was fatal to the male, as a ball
from the Meer's Purdey crushed through his
brain. The does were allowed to escape, as the
Meer rarely fires at females. The nearer the
line of beaters approached, the more fi^equently
did the game appear; and at about eleven a.m.,
the beaters having closed up, the Meer left off
shooting. His Highness' bag was a very fair
one, four Paras and about a dozen large hogs.
Meer Ali Moorad is undoubtedly a splendid
shot, but shooting of this kind requires no skill
whatever, as the sportsman sits in perfect safety,
and some of the animals are shot when standing,
or moving so slowly that it is next to impossible
for a good shot to miss one ; sometimes indeed
the Meer shoots hog with a long pistol, but occa-
sionally I have seen him make splendid shots at
deer when darting so rapidly between trees as
to be scarcely visible. After the battue had
terminated we returned, or rather proceeded
onward, to the tents, which had been sent to a
shady grove about four miles from Nauchee.
On our way the Meer promised us some good
sport with his boar-hounds in the evening, of
which I shall presently give a description.

THE INDIAN BEAR. 241

Neither bears nor monkeys are to be found in
the Sindh jungles, at least in those where I
have hunted, and the Khyrpooreans seemed sur-
prised at the sight of a couple of show bears
from Cashmere. These appeared to be the
common bear of India, black, with a white gor-
get. The Indian bear, of which I have shot
many, lives principally on roots, honey, wild
fruits, and the comb found in the nests of white
ants. These animals are not carnivorous, but if
they get a man in their power they will suck
at a limb till they have extracted all the blood
and chewed it to the consistence of a sausage.
Of this I once saw an instance in the case of
the late Lieutenant Macleod of the 34th Madras
Light Infantry, who had a young bear which
one day took a fancy to his arm, and mauled
him very severely before he could get free.

Bears are seldom to be met with in open
ground where it is possible to spear them, as
they are indifferent runners and very awkward
in their gait, though they evince much activity
in climbing. I once however saw a very
large bear found in a sugar-cane field, which
killed one of the beaters, and was making for
tlie nearest jungle when brought to bay. Bruin

VOL. I. 16

242 MAJOR DAVIES.

then stood upon his hind legs, and the horses
were shy of approaching him ; moreover he
parried every spear most adroitly with his fore-
paws. The celebrated Major Davies, then Com-
mandant of His Highness the Nizam's Cavalry
Division, known in India as Tiger Davies, was
of the party, though, being on the opposite side
of the sugar-cane, he was the last to come up.
Seeing the manner in which the bear defied his
assailants, he took off his hunting-cap with his
left hand, shied it in Bruin's face, which occu-
pied his attention, whilst, as he parried the cap,
Davies' spear passed through his heart. Poor
Davies, he was shortly afterwards killed in a
mutiny of his men, who really loved him as a
father, but were goaded into that mutiny by the
tyranny of one of his own relatives. He was
one of the bravest and best soldiers in the serv-
ice, and celebrated for being one of the finest
riders and swordsmen in India.

The Meer's party was now rather large, as
several cousins and other relations by marriage
had joined the camp. But I must give a brief
sketch of the principal personages, and what I
think of them. His Highness, Meer Ali Moorad
Khan Bahader, the head of the Talpoor tribe

MEER ALI MOORAD's FAMILY. 243

and Reis of Upper Sindli, liad by his first wife
two sons, the Meers Shah Nowaz Khan and
Fyze Mahomed Khan, 25 and 23 years of age
respectively, and three marriageable daughters
by the same mother, a lady of rank of the
Murree tribe of Beloochees. By a second mar-
riage Avith a Kunchunnee, or dancing girl, whose
sister he also subsequently married, His High-
ness has issue, Meer Jehan Mahomed, aged 18
years, and Meer Khan Mahomed, aged 16 years.
Meer Ali Moorad has also a fourth wife. His
mother is still living, and it is said shows the
remains of considerable early beauty. The
tliree elder sons are all married and have off-
spring. The families of Meer Shah Nowaz and
Meer Fyze Mahomed reside at Dejee, as also
their mother and grandmother ; but the family
of Meer Jehan Mahomed reside with his mother
in the j^alace called the Deyorie at Khyrpoor.
The young princes are rarely with their families,
as the Meer insists on their presence in his con-
stant hunting excursions. They have con-
sequently Cam^') establishments, but for Orientals
are by no means dissipated. In looking over
the Sindh Blue Book I find some most un-
founded statements [vide Forbes' Report, dated

16 •

244 MEER SHAH NOWAZ.

25tli November, 1847, vol. xlix. of 1854, page
367], especially as regards the Meer's eldest son,
Meer Shah Nowaz Khan, who as a mere boy
attracted the notice of Sir Charles Napier from
his strong personal resemblance to the great
Napoleon. Meer Shah Nowaz has an exceed-
ingly handsome, intelligent face, and his abilities
are good. He reads and writes English a little,
and with practice would soon attain a competent
colloquial knowledge of the language. He
shows a strong desire for improvement, and
wishes much to go to England for that purpose.
This young Prince governed the country during
his father's absence in England, much to the
satisfaction of the people, with whom he is
justly a favourite. His conduct was also highly
approved by the Chief Commissioner, who made
a very favourable report of his loyalty to the
British Government on the occasion of the
mutiny at Shikarpoor, and of his conduct gener-
ally during the late insurrection.

Meer Shah Nowaz was the youth wlio made
so strong an impression on Sir Charles Napier,
and whom His Excellency thus described : " The
son of Meer Ali Moorad came to see me. The
lad is a little fat fellow, as broad as he is long :

HIS CLAIM TO THE SUCCESSION. 245

^' the fat boy," but siicli a face and head — •
Napoleon's — a black Napoleon. He is full of
intelligence, and will give us English trouble or
help. His father is superior in character to the
other Ameers, &c." It was evidently Sir
Cliarles Napier's intention to have the succession
to the Turban fixed on Meer Shah Nowaz, and
it is to be hoped that the British authorities
will look to this. As a matter of right the
succession ought to come to this Prince, and
he indeed is most worthy of it, of either of the
four sons of Meer Ali Moorad ; but if the matter
be left to His Highness, he will of a surety
select Meer Jehan Mahomed, a young man of
the lowest origin by the mother's side, and who
is moreover totally uneducated.

Forbes' Report above referred to is not in-
correct in regard to Meer Shah Nowaz alone,
for it contains the following statement, which I
know from personal inquiry to have been un-
founded : —

'^ But a few days back Meer Shere Mahomed,
fourth son of the late Meer Roostum, appeared a
supplicant for subsistence before the door, and
is now living on the bounty of her who, in his
father's life-tmie a low courtesan in Khyrpoor

246 Forbes' report concerning him.

bazaar, is now the favourite wife of His High-
ness Meer Ali Moorad Khan, enjoying an in-
come of nearly three lakhs a year."

Now I shall show how far this statement is
correct : Meer Shere Mahomed from keeping evil
company was reduced to great distress, and
when in such state solicited aid from the
younger sister of Meer Jehan Mahomed's mo-
ther, and she, having no children by His High-
ness Meer Ali Moorad, adopted Meer Shere
Mahomed as a son. The assertion that this
lady was " a low courtesan " is untrue ; she was
by hirth a Kunchunnee, and her elder sister being
married to the Meer, she resided with her
until of an age to be herself married, when she
became the third wife of His Highness.

The following paragraph from the above re-
port to Government will serve as a specimen of
its style and composition.

^'His father is anxious to obtain for him the
daughter of his nephew, Meer Moobaruk, de-
ceased, hut her father, notwithstanding the ad-
vantages likely to result to himself from such
an alliance, will not give his consent to it."

This is probably the first instance upon offi-

MEER FYZE MAHOMED KHAN. 247

cial record of a prince, after his own decease^ re-
fusing his consent to a daughter's marriage !

During the time that I was secretary to Meer
Ali Moorad I had peculiar opportunities of ob-
serving the conduct of his sons, and was led to
form a very high opinion of Meer Shah Nowaz,
who only wants opportunity to become a supe-
rior person.

The Meer's second son, by the same mother,
Meer Fyze Mahomed Khan, is a very kind-
hearted young man, but of inferior ability to
his elder brother, and the people about him
say that he is too fond of money. His health was
not good when in England, which caused his
return to Sindh some months before his father ;
and although about eight months in England
he made no progress in oiu' language, but writes
Persian pretty well. Meer Fyze Mahomed is,
I believe, a well-meaning young man, and is
very particular in his religious exercises. Sir
Charles Napier formed a favourable opinion of
Meer Fyze Mahomed, whom he speaks of as
having a stern look, but full of fire and sarcasm.

Meer Jehan Mahomed Khan is very good-
looking, and evidently the favourite with his

248 MEER KHAN MAHOMED.

father, but his education has been lamentably
neglected, and he writes Persian indifferently.

Meer Khan Mahomed, the "fat boy" of the
family, is even more ignorant than his brother
Meer Jehan Mahomed. These young men are
by the Meer's second wife, and their manners
are not in a degree more polished than those of
the falconers, their ordinary companions, as
they never associate with the two elder bro-
thers, who appear to look down upon them on
account of the lowness of their mother's origin.

The three sisters of Meers Shah Nowaz and
Fyze Mahomed are, I was told, rather good-
looking; the European woman who was mar-
ried to a Mahomedan in the Meer's service, Mrs
Gholaum Husseyn, was my informant, and she
saw a good deal of the ladies, having resided
with them for several weeks at a time in the
Zunana. They are rather old for unmarried
Indian ladies, the eldest being above twenty-two
years of age ; she describes them as extremely
kind and good-natured, as are also all the elder
ladies. The only thing she objected to was
their having her little daughter's nose bored,
and a large nose-ring fixed therein, during the
time she was on a visit with them. They also

MEER MAHOMED KHAN. 249

changed the child's name from Eliza to MmTy-
am, and wished to have her married to a Moo-
sulmaun.

It is said that Meer Ali Buksh, a son of Meer
Roostum, is to marry one of these ladies, and
two cousins of another branch are to have the
others, but the present impoverished state of
the Khyrpoor treasury is a bar to the arrange-
ment. I liked what I saw of these Meers, who
seem to be much respected by all about the
durbar; and these marriages are desirable as
tending to cement the interests of the several
branches of the Talpoor family. Meer Ali
Moorad had another son, Meer Sohrab Khan,
but he died young.

Meer Mahomed Khan, son of Meer Gholaum
Hyder, married a daughter of Meer Roostum.
He is a great miser, and is known as Mahomed
Khan Kookuree, from living entirely on fowls,
one of which he makes last for two days.
Kookur is Sindhi for a fowl. The sons of this
Meer are fine young men, and appear to be on
very friendly terms with all the members of the
reigning branch of the family.

Mrs Gholaum Husseyn, having been a visitor
for weeks together in tlie Zunanas, had an op-

250 SISTEES OF MEEK SHAH NOWAZ.

portunity of observing the domestic habits of
their inmates that probably no other European
ever possessed, and her description of the ladies
of the Meer's family is on the whole favom'able.
His Highness' mother still shows the remains
of early beauty, as does the mother of Meer
Shah Nowaz, whose wife, and the wives of Meer
Fyze Mahomed, are also good-looking. The
Meer's youngest wife, whom he has never seen
since the day after his marriage, having, it is
said, taken an aversion to her, is described as a
very beautiful young woman. The mother of
the two younger princes, as I before said, is a
dame of vast proportions, but with a jolly, good-
humoured countenance. She seldom leaves her
residence, perhaps from the impossibility of
finding a camel equal to her enormous weight,
with that of a counterbalancing burden on the
op230site side. The sisters of Meer Shah Nowaz
are said to be rather comely damsels, the
youngest of them being now about fifteen, the
other two a few years older. When at Khyr-
poor, the young ladies were occasionally ob-
served peeping, or perchance the maidens thus
seen may have been slave girls, but distance
lent its aid to our imaginations, and we beguiled

DAILY LIFE OF THE PEINCESSES. 251

ourselves into the belief of being the admired
of princesses. Mrs Gholaum describes the life
led by these ladies as very monotonous ; never-
theless their time did not seem to hang heavy
on their hands, and the daily routine was some-
what in this wise. They rose with the lark, or
rather, I should say, with the first twitter of the
paroquets, whose brilliant plumage flashed in
the sunbeams as they fluttered around the house-
tops of a morning. After performing their
matutinal ablutions and saying their prayers, the
ladies read the Koran, or some other religious
book, whilst breakfast was in course of prepar-
ation. They then played puchees, a game
greatly admired by all classes in the East ; and
after their morning meal, which consisted of
savoury and sweet pillaos, roasted partridges,
kabobs of the Kotapacha, a very delicate de-
scription of venison, and other good things, to
which the royal ladies did ample justice, smok-
ing was resorted to. They then walked in the
garden, under some fine shady trees, looked
after the household affairs, and issued supplies
for the day, or rather overlooked such issue.
These duties being fulfilled, puchees was again
played, the hookah being constantly smoked by

252 EASTERN ladies' TOILETTE.

tliem. At about eleven a. m. the ladies reclined
on their charpoys ; a slave girl fanned each of
them, another rubbed and patted the soles of
their feet to promote slumber, and they were
soon in the land of dreams, their attendants
following the example. About two o'clock in
the afternoon they arose, bathed, and com-
menced their toilettes. Tliis process was a
very elaborate one, and occupied fully three
hours, as the ladies of the East are quite as
fond of dress and ornaments as their sisters of
the West. Their hair was combed and braided
by their handmaids, who appeared to take great
delight in the task. The combs were of sandal
wood, and queer-looking combs they are, but
still they answer the purpose very well. The
oil used for their hair is that extracted from
mustard seed, the rank odour of ;^diich is in
some measure, though not altogether, counter-
acted by some strong perfume, with which it is
scented for toilet purposes. Attar of roses is,
perhaps, too delicate a perfume for Beloochee
noses, as my informant never saw any at Khyr-
poor, but sandal wood oil was in great request.
Musk is also much prized, as is rose water,
essence of jasmyn, and orange flowers. The

PERFUMES AND JEWELS. 253

ladies are partial too to the odoriferous gums
which are ofccasionally burnt in their dwellings.
Amongst their toilet requisites is a sweet-smell-
ing wash for the hands, called otvpteneh^ ex-
tracted from lemon blossoms, lemon peel, sandal
wood, civet, and frankincense, prepared in rose
water, but this is rarely used. Large quantities
of conserve of roses are prepared in every family,
and the ladies consider it a sovereign remedy
for all triflino; ills. The Meer's wives are said
to possess fine jewels, and are very fond of
wearing them when visiting, or receiving their
female relations. The ear-rings, nose-rings,
and neck-ornaments are j)i*ecisely similar to
those worn by Egyptian ladies, as I ascer-
tained by comparing them with the engravings
in Lane's Egypt. The Nhiit, or nose-rings, are
often of great size, and so ponderous as to require
support, for which purpose a lock of hair from the
forehead is brought down and passed through tlie
ring, to relieve the nasal cartilage of the weight.
The noses of the princesses were, says my in-
formant, only bored at the side, and not in the
centre, as with women of inferior rank ; some of
the nose-rings are very handsome ornaments,
richly set with precious stones, but they nmst be

254 DRESS OF THE PRINCESSES.

extremely inconvenient at meals, as furnishing
occupation for one hand, in holding the ring up
from the mouth to allow their food to enter.

Women in Sindh, as in India, are very partial
to bracelets, and those of the higher classes in
Sindh generally have them of ivory, but it is a
notorious fact that no elephant ever produced a
tusk capable of forming a bracelet for the Meer's
second wife, who in consequence has them made
of silver.

My informant states that the dress of the
princesses is precisely similar to that of the
common people, but of finer and richer mate-
rials. It consists of a loose pyran, or chemise,
of fine muslin, edged round the neck with nar-
row lace. Sootane, or trowsers of enormous
width, made of a very rich description of silk,
or silk and cotton. A dooputta* of the finest
muslin completes the dress, and in the cold
season shawls from Cashmere and Mooltan are
worn. When the ladies have finished their
toilettes, a short time before sunset, they ge-
nerally go out to visit their relations, or receive
them at home. In the former case they closely
veil their charms, and are carried in muJiauffas,

* A scarf of fine musliu.

THE meer's wives. 255

a kind of open palanquin with curtains. At
sun-set the evening prayer Is recited, wherever
the princesses may happen to be. About an
hour after sunset they take their evening meal,
after which they converse, smoke, and listen to
singing till it is time to retire for the night.
In conversation they appeared sensible, thougli,
of course, their ideas were very limited, and
they never tired of asking Mrs Gholaum ques-
tions about England and the religion of its
people, on which subject they seem to have had
some rather warm discussions together. They
complained bitterly of the Meer's neglect of his
wives, who, on his return from England^ re-
ceived little or nothing in the way of presents,
whilst the AH Sirkars, his mistresses, got mu-
sical boxes without end, and many other highly-
prized gifts. His Highness' want of considera-
tion for his elder wife was also brought up as a
bitter grievance ; she, a Murree lady of higli
birth, and her daughters, being reduced to great
distress for want of means, whilst the inferior
wives, who were women of the lowest origin,
were In affluent circumstances. Her Hlirhness'
establishment was numerous, in the aggrcgrate
fully a hundred persons, those of the masculine

256 THE TALPOOR DYNASTY.

gender never entering her place of residence,
but occupying a portion of the building apart.
One or two of the principal attendants only be-
ing allowed the entree when business required
it, on which occasions Her Highness was veiled.
Meer Ali Moorad took out with him numerous
musical boxes and stereoscopes for the ladies of
the Zunana, with whicli they were greatly de-
lighted at first, but soon tired of their play-
things and destroyed them.

The Talpoor dynasty dates only from 1783.
On the expulsion of the Kulloras, the country
was divided among the leaders. Meer Futteh
Ali and his three brothers reigned jointly at
Hyderabad. Meer Sohrab, from whom the
Khyrpoor family sprung, got that place and its
dependencies, and Meer Tara, grandfather of
Shore Mahomed, got Meerpoor, to the eastward
of Hyderabad. Minor chiefs, who had been
engaged in the war, were quartered with their
followers in different parts of the country,
each having charge of the district about him,
which was called his '' Derdaree," after Dera,
his head-quarters. In India we apply this word
to a tent, but not so in Sindh, as it is invariably
applied to a permanent dwelling.

THE JUNGLE. 257

The Mjamanee tribe is the most influential
in Sindh after the Talpoors.

At about three in the afternoon we were again
in our saddles, flying the hawks as we advanced
in the same order as the morning. On ap-
proaching the river we observed a long belt of
jungle, from which sloped a fine plain towards
where we stood, and on the opposite slope, at
the distance of a mile, another jungle. The
Mecr warned me to kee^^ out of the way of the
hogs, as they crossed with the dogs after them.
We had no sooner taken our post than fire was set
to the jungle along the river bank, and the hogs,
soon finding their quarters too hot to hold them,
began to bolt and scour across the plain towards
the other jungle, with the dogs in pursuit. We
had a capital view of the chase, and some of the
runs were good ; but all the hogs escaped, ex-
cept two or three, which the dogs brought to
bay and killed, and none of those were boars,
which are rarely killed by hounds without the
aid of spear or rifle. As it was, two or three
dogs were ripped up, and a Belooch got a
severe />?<r/, but without much personal injury.
The hounds used were large and very savage

VOL. I. 17

258 HOG HUNTING.

greyhounds of the Khorassan breed. In re-
turning to camp Meer Fyze Mahomed's horse
came down and rolled over him, whereby he
was severely bruised, but providentially no
bones were broken. Thus ended my first day's
hunting in Sindh, which, to my thinking, was
very poor sport, after my long apprenticeship
in the tiger jungles of the Deckkun and Berar,
and the noble hog-hunting in the Nagpore
country. I suggested to the Meer that it
would be well to procure some hog spears and
ride the hogs as they crossed the plain ; but he
did not seem to approve the suggestion, as the
exercise is too violent to suit the habits of most
eastern princes, who consult their ease as far as
possible in all ways.

The wild hogs of Sindh are hardly, I think, so
large, though far more fierce, than those of
India, for it is no uncommom thing for a boar
to turn and attack his pursuers, and I heard at
Khyrpoor of the Dawk Sowar ^ or Postman, being
stopped by a wild boar, which pursued him at
full speed to the station for changing horses.
A boar, when in wind, will sometimes run three
miles at a pace that will keep a good Arab at
his best. A hog should always be forced to his

USE OF THE SPEAR. 259

speed at the outset, and kept at it till he is
sj^eared. At the moment of attack the horse
should be well in hand. The spear should be
directed just behind the shoulder, and about six
inches below the back-bone, for that is the road
to the heart. If a hog be touched in the spine
too, he di'02:)s instantly. When a boar charges
he always raises his fore-quarters, and sometmies
even rises on his hind legs. A boar rips with
his tusks, a sow bites. The former cuts alter-
nately to the right and left with a rapid move-
ment, seeming to wriggle his nose against the
object of attack. I remember Lieutenant
Messiter, of the Madras 22nd Regiment, getting
a very ugly bite from a sow, which thus resented
his attack upon her offspring in the Hingin-
ghaut Bheer, a celebrated hunting spot in the
Nagpore country.

On reaching the Meer's camp, we found it
pitched on the high bank overhanging the Indus
at Nauchee, rather a picturesque situation, with
several large Landces, or temporary sheds,
formed of the reed which grows in such abund-
ance in the valley of the Indus, and thatched
over.

Preparations had been made for receiving a

17*

260 CHIEF commissioner's state visit.

visit of ceremony from tlie Chief Commissioner,
who was expected immediately at Sukkur. A
flight of steps had been cut down the bank to the
water's edge, and a party of the Meer's Golim-
dauze, with two guns, had been brought out from
Khyrpoor, to fire a salute in honour of the Com-
missioner's arrival ; however His Highness had
to exercise his patience, as several days elapsed
before he made his appearance.

The Meer's large Durbar tent, and several
others, were pitched for the expected interview,
and the State Charpoy, with silver legs, was
brought out for the occasion. Hote Singh, who
acted as Master of the Ceremonies, had also got
out a table, with chairs, and other requisites for
an entertainment, whereat champagne abound-
ed ; and though many ordinary essentials to
European comfort were forgotten, all passed off
very well. The Commissioner, when he did
come, was most gracious, and but little time was
lost in the empty ceremonies of the Durbar. The
salute due to his rank was fired on his arrival,
and after breakfast the Commissioner retired to
write letters, whilst the Meer and his other
guests went out shooting. Towards the decline
of day the Commissioner and his suite re-em-

Napier's interview with the meer. 261

barked under a salute, and returned to his camp
at Sukkur. Thus ended the visit to which His
Highness Meer Ali Moorad had looked forward
with so much impatience.

This was tlie spot w^here the great Napier
had an interview with Meer Ali Moorad on the
23rd November, 1842, an interview honourable
alike to both parties. The Meer's ill-wishers
had endeavoured to impress on Sir Charles that
His Highness' intentions towards him were
treacherous. This the General treated with
disdain, and, to show his perfect confidence in
that Prince, he crossed from Suldmr to Nauchee,
without the smallest escort, accompanied only
by four staff officers. Meer Ali Moorad received
him with all possible honours; His Highness
was quite aware of the reports that had been
made to his own disadvantage, and in conse-
quence the more highly appreciated that great-
hcartedness which his noble visitor showed. To
this hour the Meer speaks in the most enthu-
siastic terms of him whom he styles the '' Burra
Naupier," and declares him to have been, not
only the greatest of captains, but the most high-
minded and straightforward of men.

Never man indeed possessed a more liberal

262 NOBLE CHARACTER OF THAT GENERAL.

heart than Sir Charles Napier, though so secretly
were his bounties bestowed that scarcely did
his left hand know what his right hand gave.
Of this a noble instance came to my knowledge
a few years ago. Sir Charles Napier, when
Commander-in-Chief in India, had confirmed
the sentence of a Court Martial on a young
officer of Her Majesty's 53rd Foot. He was the
son of a widow who had experienced great
reverses. This lady, in her distress at learning
that such sentence had been fatal to her son's
commission, wrote a most affecting letter to
His Excellency, stating that her son had from
his scanty pay contributed to her own suj)port,
that he was the most affectionate and devoted
of sons, and that his dismissal would entail
ruin on the whole family ; she therefore entreat-
ed Sir Charles to exercise clemency, but ere her
letter reached the Commander-in-Chief the con-
firmed proceedings of the Court Martial had
been forwarded to England. By return of post,
however, that unhappy lady received a re^^ly
from Sir Charles, expressing his deep sympathy
in her case, and requesting her acceptance of
the draft which he enclosed for the price of her
son's commission. Silence was enjoined, and

NOBLE ACT OF LIBERALITY. 263

the lady maintained silence until the death of
her generous benefactor, whenj in the over-
flowing of her grateful heart, she made known
to myself this noble act of liberality.

CHAPTER IX.

Naucliee — Love of Huntmg an Impediment to the Improvement of
the Country — Baneful Influence of the Mooktyar Kar — The
Jungles — Smdh Forests — The Euphrates Poplar and 'the Babul
— Value of the Forests — Government Demand for the Timber —
Difiiculty of Conveyance — Extensive Gardens — Roses of Khyr-
poor — Hose "Water — Luxuriance of Grasses and Reeds — The
Kana — Effect of Trees on the Climate — Moon's Influence on the
Sap of Trees — Temperature of Sindli — Fruits — Productions — In-
digo— Cotton — Tobacco — Preparation of Leather in Sindh —
Babul Bark — Opium — Sugar Cane — Saltpetre — Sulphur — Alum
]\Iincs — Pearl Banks and Pearl Fishery — Salt Beds — Agriculture
— Mode of Paying Labourers — Richness of Crops — Peshawur
Rice — Oil Seeds — Flax, and Linseed — Paper Manufacture — Hemp
Dyes.

The situation of Naucliee is exceedingly
pretty; fine shady gardens extend nearly all
the way to Roree, about four miles to the
north, and immediately opposite, in the centre
of the river, is a long island of considerable ex-
tent, which the Meer informed me was his best
shooting ground ; it also contains a large quan-
tity of very fine cultivated land, but jungle
predominates in the proportion of ten parts to
one, as the love of hunting supersedes all con-

THE MOOKTYAR I^R. 265

siderations witli a Beloochce, who never con-
siders the loss of income which the appropria-
tion of great tracts of land for the purposes of
breeding game involves. This was carried to
such an extent during the Government of the
Ameers, that it was calculated that every head
of deer killed must have cost 800 rupees ; and
this is said to be no exaggeration, as some of tlie
richest land in Sindh was sacrificed in the
formation of Shikargahs, and such continues to
be the case in His Highness Meer Ali Moorad's
territory. Indeed I was assured by Hindoos
and Moosulmauns alike that his territory might
be doubled in value by judicious management;
but all agreed on one point, namely, that the
first step to improvement must be the removal
of his present Mooktyar Kar, or minister, not
only from that office, but also from the Meer's
territory, where he exercises a baneful degree
of influence, though detested by the people at
large, wliicli I shall hereafter notice.

The Meer's jungles contain few trees of very
considerable size, and I believe this applies to
the jungles of Sindh generally. It is rare too
to meet with tolerably straight timber ; hence,
I dare say, has arisen the use of arches to an

266 SINDH FORESTS.

extent nowhere else to be found, and, strange
to say, their arches are said to be constructed
without key-stones.

Accustomed to the jungles of India, of which
the leaves are never shed, I was surprised on
arriving in Sindh in December to find a large
portion of the trees denuded of their foliage.
The babul, basser, tali, peepul, bubbur, or
Acacia Arabica, and the tamarisk of three kinds,
are the trees most commonly met with in the
Sindh forests. In the Upper Sindh forests the
Euphrates poplar is the staple tree ; but I shall
here lay before my readers the following ex-
tract from Mr N. A. Dalzel's Report to Grovern-
ment on the Sindh Forests, for the year ending
the 30th April, 1859, or rather for some por-
tions of that year, as follows : —

" There are 7-i forests under the management
of the Forest Eanger in Sindh, including an
area of about 1,300,000 acres. In the Upper
Sindh forests the Euphrates poplar, a tree re-
sembling the willow both in the quality of its
timber and its habit of growth, is the staple
tree ; babul is scarce. One-half of these forests
consist of this tree, the other half being tamarisk
and gigantic grasses. In the Lower Sindh

SINDH FORESTS. 267

forests poplar is rare, babul being the staple
tree, covering about one-lialf of their area, one-
quarter being tamarisk and kundee, and the
remaining consisting partly of the same tall
grasses, or of waste lands out of reach of the
floods, and covered with a scrub of salvadora or
khubber, kirror or leafless caper, and the cala-
tropis or ak plant. The babul, in favourable
circumstances, grows to eight or nine feet in
circumference, which may be called the maxi-
mum of its development ; but, when left to na-
ture, it seems to be a gregarious kind of tree,
generally growing in long, narrow belts, and
huddled close together in a manner most un-
favourable to rapid and continuous growth, and
forming such a dense shade underneath as to
preclude the growth of any herbage. The
poplar trees, on the contrary, are never to be
seen crowded together in this manner ; they are
well scattered throughout the forests, and do
not require from art any assistance to their full
development.

"I need scarcely say that the babul pro-
duces excellent timber ; it is procurable of large
dimensions, and is adapted for all kinds of
work requiring strength and solidity, is now

268 VALUE OF THE FORESTS.

used extensively in the dockyard at Kotree, the
Government arsenals, and public works gener-
ally, and its value is daily becoming more re-
cognized, to judge from the increased demand
[1802 logs being sold in 1858-59, against 1237
in 1857-58]. This demand, however, is chiefly
confined at present to public departments ; the
inhabitants of the country generally do not
purchase much. This does not seem to be
owing to its original cost, which is very low
indeed [six annas per cubic foot], but to the fact
that the natives make very little use of large
timber of any kind, and the little they do require
for timber purposes is generally procurable near
their own houses. Small babul rafters, how-
ever, are in great demand by the natives for
constructing the framework of their houses; as,
however, only the thinnings of the forests are
now available, the demand exceeds the supj^ly.
In 1857-58 there were sold 22,453 rafters, and
in 1858-9, 27,254. There is no doubt, how-
ever, that the natives are very much dis-
couraged from purchasing timber, owing to the
great difiiculties and expense of conveyance ;
for although they have the advantage of water
carriage, this is at present so very expensive a

DIFFICULTY OF CONVEYANCE. 269

means of conveyance as to amount almost to a
prohibition, at least as far as this department is
concerned. The result is that the timber lying
in forests at a great distance from a market is
almost valueless. The baha, or poplar tree,
does not attain to a great size, and is naturally
a crooked tree ; the wood is light and tough,
and well adapted for paneling and such-like
work ; it is purchased in considerable quanti-
ties by the natives ; in 1858-59 there were sold
of this tree 3966 logs. It is principally the
young shoots, however, for which there is the
greatest demand under the name of rafter ; no
less than 150,000 of these liaving been sold
during the past year, against 10,708 in 1857-58.
These are preferred to babul in the construc-
tion of houses, as being less liable to be attacked
by the dry rot, or by worms, than young Cutcha
babul. The great advantage possessed by the
poplar tree is that it may be cut down to the
root, and yet not be destroyed; it will send
forth several shoots in the following year, which
in a very short time furnish a fresh crop of
rafter, in the same manner as the osier beds of
England. I may add that the supply of botli
babul and baha timber, at the present rate of

270 GOVERNMENT DEMAND FOR TIMBER.

demand, is almost inexhaustible; when, how-
ever, large babul comes into use as fuel, this
statement will require modification."

The forests in the Government districts are
admirably looked after by the active officer at
the head of the dej^artment and his two assist-
ants ; but those in the territory of His Highness
Meer Ali Moorad are utterly neglected, as only
valued by him for the game that they produce.
The consequence is that vast tracts of the most
productive land that he possesses do not bring in
one rupee of revenue, whilst the income arising
from the forests under Government manage-
ment amounts to upwards of sixty thousand
rupees per annum, and is steadily increas-
ing. This revenue is derived from the sale of
timber, firewood, charcoal, bark, reeds, gum,
honey, &c., and the collection of grazing fees.
The number of cattle grazing in the Govern-
ment forests, according to a recent report,
amounted to 98,000. At present the forest
land, taking beegah for beegah, pays more than
land under cultivation; but of course it will
only do this up to a certain quantity.

The Sindh forests are not only valuable for
supplying timber and fuel for the steamers.

THE BABUL. 271

but are of great importance in preventing the
sand left in tlie bed of the river; when the inun-
dation subsides, from drifting over the country,
and ruining many fertile districts now under
cultivation. The sand is in many places heaped
up against the outside trees to a height of 20
or 30 feet, and extends from two to three
hundred yards in width. This does not appear
to injm'e the babul trees at all, and the trees
form a jaerfect barrier, preventing the sand
blowing inland. Such is particularly the case
about a mile below Jerruck, where a portion of
the bed of the river, about seven miles in length,
and from one to three in breadth, is dry for
two-thirds of the year. This is composed en-
tirely of fine sand, and were it not that the
Veran forest lies between this bed of sand and
the cultivated land, the entire fertile tract be-
tween Shaikh Taroo and Jerruck would be
destroyed by its drifting.

In the Appendix marked D will be found a
list of the timber and fruit trees and bushes in
Sindh, taken fi'om the late Dr Stock's account of
them.

The babul is the common forest tree below
Sehwan. The babul and bahn abound be-

272 USES OF THE BABUL.

tween Sehwan and Sukkur, above whicli tlie
balin and tuli are most common. The babul
is of veiy quick growth and extremely tough, as
appears by the result of experiments in the
naval yard at Kotree, where the best teak
broke with a strain of 3cwt. only, whilst ba-
bul did not break till a strain of 3cwt 3qrs.,
was applied. Wlien the babul is seasoned
white ants rarely attack it ; it is a heavy wood,
and will only float when it is well seasoned,
thus its weight precludes its being floated down
the river. It is much used in the Indus flotilla
for steamer's tillers, main-pieces for rudders,
jDaddle floats, boat knees, stanchions, &c., also
for beams in buildings ; it is used in the arsenal
for naves of wheels, felloes, &c., and for any
work where particular strength is required.
The seed pods are used for fattening cattle, and
the bark for tanning; gum and lac are also
collected fi^om it, and it is the best wood for
fuel for steamers and other purposes ; camels
and goats are very fond of the leaves. In good
soil, well watered, the babul grows from 25 to
30 feet high, and two feet six inches in circum-
ference in four years, and if pruned it grows
straight.

PLANTS OF STNDH. 273

The balm is a light tough wood, but inferior
in strength to teak ; it is much used in building,
but liable to the ravages of the white ants until
seasoned.

The tali is a very superior wood ; white ants
do not meddle with it even when green. It is
a very straight-growing timber tree, but of little
use under 30 years' growth. Large plantations
of this tree are being made in the forests of
Lower Sindh.

The kundi is much used for household furni-
ture, and sheep and goats feed upon the leaves.

The leafless caper-bush is much used for the
knees of the Sindh flat-bottomed boats.

The acacia and tamarind abound in northern
Sindh ; there are also the peepul, the bii', and the
date-palm, of which the fruit is greatly esteemed,
and much of it is dried and stored for con-
sumption, but is very inferior to the dates of
Egypt and Arabia.

The Meer's family have some extensive gar-
dens about Khyrpoor, but, like everything per-
taining to His Highness, they are ill cared for.
Mangoes are very plentiful, but generally of an
inferior kind, as the art of grafting seems un-
known tliere. Pomegranates are plentiful, but

VOL. I. 18

274 EXTENSIVE GARDENS.

poor in quality. At Sliikarpoor tlio gardens
are very fine, as the wealthy natives vie with
each other in their fruit and flower-gardens, and
Meer Ali Moorad used occasionally to receive a
supply from his agent there. At Roree too the
gardens are very good, and principally supply
both Sukkur and Khyrpoor. The melons
brought there for sale are the best I ever saw
in India, being of those fine kinds for which
Kandahar and Cabool have ever been celebrated.
The peaches, apples, and figs grown about
Khyrpoor are rubbish, but the mulberries are
tolerably good. The roses of Khyrpoor are par-
ticularly plentiful, and in my opinion far more
fragrant than those of Europe, though a late
distinguished author declares that '' they have
no fragrance." Vast quantities of rose-water
and conserve of roses are made in Sindh, the
latter being seemingly considered a sovereign
remedy for many complaints.

The luxuriance of the grasses and reeds in
Sindh, and especially near the Indus, surpasses
anything I ever saw elsewhere. The reed
known as Kana grows to an immense height, is
knotted like the bamboo, and has a beautiful
feathery head. This reed is invaluable to the

EFFECT OF TREES ON CLIMATE. 275

Siiidhians for huts, mats, baskets, chaii'S, &c.
It grows in large tufts, and vast tracts are cover-
ed with it between Khyrpoor and the river.

The effect that trees have on the chmate of
every country is a matter know^n to all ; thus it
is to be supposed that the extension of the
forests would tend to ameliorate the exceedingly
dry climate of Sindh. The dew falls copiously
where trees abound ; it di'ops off their leaves as
though there had just been a heavy shower ; but
a thousand yards outside the line of trees, where
the soil is just as good, but no grass growing, it
will be as dry as it was the day before at noon.
The dew falls also heavily on the low tamarisk
bushes scattered over the country, but the dew
which falls from that bush is exceedingly salt
and bitter ; thus its fertilizing properties are
lost.

The natives of India believe, and my own
experience convinces me of the fact, that the
moon exercises a strong influence on trees ; and
as they think that if they cut down a tree when
the moon is on the increase the sap will be
up, they wait for the decrease of the planet,
because it is well known to all practical en-
gineers in India, that wood, if cut while the

18 •

276 TEMPERATURE OF SINDH.

moon is in the increase, will be full of worm,
whilst that cut in its decrease will be quite free.
In Sindh I was assured that the like opinion
prevails.

The late Dr Stock, in his able report to Go-
rernment on the Plants and Articles of Cultiva-
tion suitable to the climate of Sindh, observes
that " Sindh is an extra-tropical country, the
average temperature of whose summer months
rises to 95° Fahr., and whose winter months
have an average temperature of 60°. The
highest temperature of the hottest days in sum-
mer fi-equently rises to 110°, less frequently to
120°.* The lowest temperature of the night in
winter is a few degrees below freezing, and wliat
is more important with regard to vegetation,
the temperature of a winter day [average]
ranges between 80° and 40°.

'' Many places have occasionally as high a
temperature, but none such a continuance of
hot weather [owing to the deficiency of rain],
whence arises the high summer average. The
winter of Algiers, with an average summer
higher than any recorded.

* I have repeatedly seen the thermometer at 140' and upwards
in Julv.

CLIMATE AND SOIL. 277

'' The above remarks clo not apply to KuiTa-
chee, wliose temperature is kept more uniform
by the sea, and whose meteorology [though ex-
tremely interesting in a medical and sanatory
point of view] is not valuable in connection
with cultivation on a large scale. They apj^ly
to Sindh, from Hyderabad to Shikarpoor, in-
cluding the fertile districts of Larkhana and
Sehwan, and those parts which are supplied
with water from the Indus and its branches.

2. "Which is almost out of the range of the
Monsoon.

3. "Whose overflowing river makes up, to a
certain extent, for the deficiency of rain
above noted.

4. " Whose soil is plastic clay, most strongly
impregnated with salt, quickly covered
with the fertile Avarp of a river remarkably
charged with fertilizing matter, when
[naturally or by canals] it is brought within
its influence, and as quickly reduced to a
barren sand, when the river is diverted, or
never brought near it. In many parts also
are rocky formations, chiefly of carbonate of
lime.

5. " Where the date tree from the equator

278 FRUITS.

northward first ripens, and brings its fruit
to perfection in any quantity.

6. " Where the apple begins to produce eatable
fruit with little attention, — a transition from
the difficulty of obtaining that fruit in India,
to the ease and perfection with which it is
cultivated in Khorassan.

7. " Where that remarkable family of plants, the
balsam trees, first begins, from the equator
northwards, to yield a copious supply of
gum resin, useful in the arts and in medi-
cine.

8. " Where the pomegranate is capable of bear-
ing a fine and delicious fruit.

9. '' And yet the mango does not fall off in
excellence.

10. " Where in the heat of summer tropical
grains and fruits are cultivated, while in the
cold and bracing winter extra-tropical and
European grains, pulse, and vegetables, may
be grown with no perceptible deterioration.

11. "Where the indigenous vegetation is one-
third Arabian and Egyptian and two-thirds
Indian."

The above extracts are from the report of a
very able officer, but I confess that his ojjinion

' THEIR QUALITY. 279

of some of the fruits of Sindli is far more favour-
able than my own ; for example, though the
date is grown in vast quantities in Sindh, it is
of a very inferior kind as compared with the
dates of Bussorah and Arabia. The ajDple too
of Sindh is a very inferior fruit. The pome-
granate is not to be compared wdth that of Egypt.
The mango is abundant enough, it is true, but
the very best from Meer Ali Moorad's gardens
are far inferior to the mangoes of Bombay, as
grafting is unknown to the native gardeners of
Sindh.

His Highness Meer Ali Moorad brought
round many varieties of fruit trees from Bom-
bay, which were planted in his very fine gar-
den at Dejee ; but the gardener whom he pro-
cured from the Horticultural Society, and who
cost him a good deal of money in coming to
Khyrpoor, could not be prevailed on to remain,
and after he departed the imported trees very
soon perished.

Dr Stock considered that the following arti-
cles, and other vegetable productions, might be
advantageously cultivated in Sindh, from simi-
larity of climate and soil : —
Aloes. This plant grows wild in

280 PRODUCTIONS.

Sindli, and good aloes
are made from it. Cli-
mate similar to that of
Socotra.

Dragon's Blood tree. Climate and affinity to So-
cotra, where it grows
wild.

Flax. Climate very suitable to

this plant.

Egyptian cotton. Similarity in soil and cli-
mate. Cotton thrives
well in Meer Ali Moo-
rad's territory ; in fact,
it does so in all parts of
Sindh, and is suscepti-
ble of great improve-
ment in its cultivation,
as at present no atten-
tion is paid thereto.
Sindh cotton is of two
kinds, but that most
generally cultivated is
a perennial plant, the
roots being left in the

♦ ground after the first

crop. This saves trouble

COTTON. 281

and expense, and these
are primary considera-
tions with a Sindhi cul-
tivator. The season for
sowing is April, and the
crop is ready in August.
No cotton is exported
from the Meer's terri-
tory; though the prox-
imity of the Indus, and
the inland water-car-
riage afforded by the
Meerwa, render it easy
to convey any quantity
to Kotree at moderate
cost. The cotton grown
about Khyrpoor is used
alone for home con-
sumption ; and weaving
is carried on, but with-
out any appearance of
activity, in most of the
villages, and the cloth
manufactured is gener-
ally of a very coarse
description.

282

PRODUCTIONS.

Egyptian wheat

Olive.

Carob tree.

Is very superior to the or-
dinary wheat of the
country, and the Meer
commissioned some seed
wheat from Alexandria
while I was with him.

The olive grows wild on
the hills of Beloochistan,
and would probably
flourish in Sindh from
similarity of soil and
climate with Syria and
Egypt, where it is ex-
tensively cultivated.

This grows admirably,
says Dr Stock, in the
driest parts of Egypt,
Syria, and Arabia, and
is one of the most im-
portant productions of
these countries. It yields
food to man and fodder
to beasts, with but little
attention in the most
barren situations. Dr
Stock considers that this

GUM KESINS AND INDIGO. 283

tree would thrive well

in Sindli, and that whole

forests of it should be

planted.

Myrrh, frankincense, Dr Stock observes that

asafoetida, traga- the climate of Sindli

canth, mastich, (and especially of the

and other gums. higher parts of it) seems

particularly suited to the
development of the
odoriferous and fetid
gum resins, which re-
quire a certain amount
of cold. Three kinds
of asafoetida and a kind
of mastich are found in
the hills of Beloochis-
tan, and the tamarisk
yields manna all over
Sindh.
Indiffo. The soil and climate of

Sindh are peculiarly
adapted to the produc-
tion of Indigo, as the
absence of rain and f^i-
cility for artificial irri-

^&'

284 INDIGO.

gation enable the culti-
vator to supply his crop
at the proper moment
with the necessary quan-
tity of water and no
more, which is a grand
desideratum in Indigo
planting. It has too
been successfully culti-
vated in Upper Sindh,
the quality of that pro-
duced being good, but
the ignorance of the
Sindh manufacturer
spoils the article, which
consequently never re-
alizes a fair price, as the
cakes are invariably
broken from irregularity
in their form. I have
seen Indigo of excellent
quality grown in Meer
Ali Moorad's country,
and endeavoured to pro-
cure a man thoroughly
versed in the process of

BDELLIUM. 285

its manufacture, as prac-
tised in the Cuddapah
district, to emigrate to
Khyrpoor in the service
of His Highness, but
the distance was too
great to allow of any-
one being open to
the temptation offered.
Otherwise I have no
doubt tliat tlie specula-
tion would have an-
swered. Indigo is in
great demand in Sindh,
but chiefly for home
consumption. In 1840
the quantity of Indigo
grown in the Khyrpoor
territory was about 900
maunds, or 72,000
pounds, but I have no
means of ascertaining
the quantity produced
at present.
Bdolllum. The Bdellium of Ge-

nesis is known In SIndli

286 TOBACCO.

as guggur. It is a shrub
that yields the googal
gum resin sold in Eng-
land as East Indian
myrrh.
Shiraz and Latakia These fine kinds of tobacco,
tobacco. says Dr Stock, would

certainly succeed ad-
mirably in the congenial
climate of Sindh, which
country produces much
tobacco, but the rude
mode of sweating spoils
the article. The tobac-
co at present grown in
Sindh is generally of the
most indifferent quality ;
but quality is very little
looked for either by the
prince or peasant, tho'
smoking is the principal
feature in a Sindhian's
existence. Persian to-
bacco is certainly pre-
ferred when it is attain-
able, but the wealthy

AETIFICIAL GRASSES. 287

can alone enjoy a luxu-
ry so expensive.
The artificial grasses The artificial grasses of
of England. England, especially lu-

cern, gi^ow well In SIndli
In the cold season. The
Meer had a great deal
of it in his garden of
Dejee before my arrival,
and I procured him a
large quantity of seed
^^om Messrs GIbbs and
Co. of Half Moon street,
Piccadilly.
Madder. Madder, or miinjcet ga-

rancin, Is cultivated
largely In Mooltan and
the Punjaub, and might
be advantageously In-
troduced Into SIndh.
During my residence at Khyrpoor I occupied
myself a good deal in making inquiries regard-
ing tanning-barks, which are peculiarly good
In SIndh, the people of that country having, in-
deed, been long celebrated for their prei^aratlon
of leather. Larkhana is especially famous for

288 PREPARATION OF LEATHER.

this article, which is an important branch of ex-
port trade for belts, boots, &c. The leather of
the hog-deer, or kota-pacha, is the most valu-
able, but all kinds of leather prepared with the
bark of the babul are fully equal, if not supe-
rior, to the leather of Europe. Any quantity
of babul bark is procurable at Khyrpoor, in-
deed anywhere along the banks of the Indus.
A profitable speculation might be made by
Treacher and Co., or some other chemist, by
preparing extract of this bark for exportation to
England, where a substitute for oak bark is
much required, the supply being unequal to the
demand for tanning purposes. The extract
must, however, be made in earthen vessels, as
iron utensils cause the extract to discolour the
leather and render it brittle. Both babul and
mangrove barks are much used by the tanners
of Sindh ; but the barks themselves could not be
exported with profit by reason of their bulk.
One especial advantage in employing the man-
grove extract is, that it takes effect on the
leather in half the time of oak bark. These
tanning barks are now, in a great degree,
wasted, which would thus be turned to excellent

OPIUM — SUGAR CANE. 289

account, and it is to be hoped ^^ill be brought
into use at no distant period.

Opium was used in large quantities before
our taking possession of Sindh, but the increased
expense of the drug has since contributed to
lessen the consumj^tion. The opium produced
in Upper Sindh, about Shikai'poor, Larkhana,
and further north, has always been considered
of a ver}- superior description. The opium-
eaters of Sindh are said, however, to j^refer the
drug produced in Jeysidmeer to that of home
growth, and most of what is consimied comes
direct from that state.

Sugar cane grows to a large size in the rich
lands bordering on the Indus, but the sugar de-
rived from it is of the coarsest description. This
crop is precarious, as it is attacked by white ants,
unless plentifully supplied T^dth water at the
time of planting in January ; and by red ants
in July or August, which last devour the crop
unless there is a fall of rain. The cultivation
costs 60 rupees per bcega, and the average
value is about 90 rupees. The richer natives
never use the common su2:ar unless clarified or
made into sugar candy. The Europeans in

VOL. I. ly

290 SALTPETRE.

Sindh generally use Mauritius sugar, whicli
is here called Cheence, under the supposition
that it comes from the celestial empire. The
juice of the sugar cane is expressed in a very
rude kind of mill, and then simply boiled into
Goor or Molasses of the very coarsest descrip-
tion, I feel convinced that a sugar manufactory
might be established under European or Parsee
sujDerintendence, with great advantage, at Roree
or Sukkur, as its sugar would be in demand
throughout the countries to the north-west,
those markets being at present dependent on
supplies of the article from Russia and Persia.
Now I believe that as good sugar might be
manufactured at Suklau? as is made in the
Northern Cirkars or Mysore, and at as cheap a
rate, if any enterprising firm Avould take the
business in hand ; but so long as it is left to the
Bunneeahs no improvement can be expected.

Saltpetre abounds throughout Sindh, and espe-
cially in parts near Khyrpoor the land appears
here and there as if a slight fall of snow had
taken place, so completely is the surface covered
with a saline efflorescence. Hote Singh, the
Mooktyar Kar of Meer Ali Moorad, holds the
saltpetre monopoly there, and doubtless makes

ALUM MINES. 291

a good thing of it. This saline efflorescence is
merely scraped away and slightly prepared,
when it is packed in bags, and sent to Roree or
Siikkur for shipment on the Indus. So little
care is taken in packing this valuable article,
that an immense wastage occm^s in transit,
which would be avoided were more serviceable
bags employed. The quality of the Sindh salt-
petre, and especially that of Khyrpoor, is very
superior, for which reason the gunpowder of
Sindh was always held in much estimation.

Sulphur abounds in the western hills, where
hot springs are numerous.

The alum mines of Sindh are very product-
ive, but for want of fresh water they are less
profitable than they might be made.

The pearl fishery of Sindh is thus reported
on by the late Mr Macleod, a very able officer : —

'' In the salt-water inlets along the entire
sea coast of Sindh, a thin-shelled variety of the
oyster exists, producing a seed pearl. It is
most frequently found on mud-banks left dry at
low tides. The pearl is of very little value
compared with that produced by the Ceylon
and Persian Gulf Fisheries, the price of the
latter ranging fr'om rs. 1000 to rs. 1500, whilst

19*

292 PEARL BANKS OF SINDH.

the former seldom realizes more than rs. 15 a
tola. From the supposition that it possesses
invigorating powers, it is used here chiefly as a
medicine. The larger grains are occasion ally-
made use of as personal ornaments ; the smaller
ones to intermix with the valuable Bahrein
pearls, in which manner they are kept in bags
by the Bombay merchants, as a means of pre-
serving their lustre.

"About the latter end of the year 1836 the
Ameers of Sindh first became aware of the ex-
istence of this description of pearl oyster on
their coast, by a money tender having been
made for the exclusive privilege of fishing them.
The banks, called Kenjur, at the entrance to
Gharra Creek, were consequently let out for
one year for Kashanee rs. 650. The farmer
must have profited well, as in the year follow-
ing they were let for rs. 1300 annually for a
consecutive period of two years. Subsequently
to operations being commenced, a higher offer
was received by the Ameers, who, with that
want of faith which characterized them when a
prospect of gain presented itself, gave orders
for the immediate ejectment of the original
holder of the farm. Similar circumstances

PEAEL FISHERY. 293

operating against the second occupant, he also
was ejected ; and this process continued, until
the sum tendered amounted to rs. 19,000 per
annum. The party to whom the farm devolved
at this large rent soon discovered that he had
entirely overestimated its value ; and by cease-
less importunity got released from his contract.
The Ameers then ordered the fishery to be con-
ducted on their own account, until, finding it
unprofitable, it was discontinued.

"At the close of the year 1839 the Kurrachee
Harbour (in tlie creeks adjoining which the
pearl oyster is found) was again let for two
years, for rs. 1100 ; six months afterwards other
speculators offered rs. 21,000; it was finally
let for rs. 35,000, the contractors relieving the
former occupants, and taking possession of the
pearls that had been collected by them. These
parties, however, failed, but were made to pay
rs. 20,000. The Ameers, as at Kenjur, took
the management of the fishery, which in three
months, it is said, realized between seven and
eight thousand rupees, — a doubtfiil cii'cum-
stance, as after a short trial it was altogether
relinquished by them.

" When the country became a British posses-

294 CONTRACTS FOR THE FISHERY.

sion, the Kenjur Fishery was let by the Col-
lector of Land Revenue for Kashanee rs. 2500
for one year, commencing from the 1st August,
1843, but the contract was not fulfilled. The
following year the highest offer made was rs.
2400 ; but the fishermen objected to work, al-
leging that as theii^ gains were regulated by
the amount of produce, which was insignificant,
they could not earn enough for their support.
The contractors appealed to the Governor of
Sindh, who deciding against them, tlieir con-
tract ceased. The harbour fishery was let out
at the same time for rs. 3700 per annum, but
owing to a misunderstanding of the terms of the
contract it was resumed, and fished by the
Collector on account of Government. In one
month the sum of rs. 2278 was realized, ex-
clusive of expenses. The fishermen, however,
declined to continue the fishery, alleging that
they could find no more oysters. It was
thought at the time that they had been bribed
by the former contractors to make this state-
ment, but experience has since tended to show
that it was not altogether incorrect.

'' In the month of May, 1845, 1 was placed in
charge of this source of revenue, and having

UNPEOFITABLE RESULTS. 295

personally examined the situation of the banks,
I found the entire line of coast from Kutch to
Kurrachee giving evidence of the existence of
the oyster. It appearing to me that several
spots might be fished with advantage, I engaged
boats and forty divers, but after a month's la-
bour, at what appeared to be the most product-
ive banks, the expenses incurred exceeded the
value of the pearls produced.

" The harbour of Kurrachee has been twice
since that period let out for rs. 800 and rs.
1300 : the contractors, however, in each case,
after several examinations, found it advisable to
suspend operations, under the conviction that
the oysters were too few and too scattered to
pay the expense of collecting them.

" In this conclusion I am disposed to concur,
and to express my belief that the power vested
(during the time of the Ameers) in the hands of
the farmer, of pressing the labour of Mohanees
and others, and obliging tliem to work at a
nominal rate of wages, constituted the chief
value of the pearl fishery.

" When forced labour was abolished by Sir
Charles Napier, and men were allowed to take
service wherever their interests prompted them,

29 G SALT BEDS.

this source of revenue at once fell, and although
several times attempted to be propped up, by
farming it to j^arties fully qualified to take
advantage of all circumstances likely to bring
the farm to account, it has failed to repay even
the necessary outlay.

" This description of oyster is not peculiar to
Sindh : it is found in Kutch, Kattywar, and on
the western coast of India, where the shell is
used by the Portuguese as a substitute for glass,
to admit light."

In the year 1844 the existence of extensive
salt beds in the neighbom^iood of the Ulla
Bund was brought under the notice of Sir
Charles Napier, then Governor of Sindh, by
Captain Baker, Superintendent of Canals and
Forests, in the following terms : —

^'I take this opportunity of bringing to the
notice of H. E. the Governor of Sindh, that
there are ponds and valleys, connected with
the lower part of Pooran, abounding in pure
salt : many of the pools near the Ulla Bund
contain superficial deposits of this substance,
but Mr Hodges, assistant surveyor, who sur-
veyed from Raoma to Wunga bazaar, met with
large beds of salt, of a considerable extent, and

REVENUE FROM SALT. 297

five or six feet deep. Should Government con-
sider the subject worthy of attention as a source
of revenue, it would appear from Mr Hodges'
description that this salt may be obtained in
almost any quantity and of the pm^est kind."
Soon afterwards specimens of the deposit were
forwarded to Kurrachee by the collector of
Hyderabad. These were forwarded to Bom-
bay, but owing to the opposition of the salt
merchants there, whose interests might be af-
fected were Sindh salt to get into the market,
the subject remained in abeyance."

These beds were subsequently examined by
an engineer officer, who estimated the quantity
at fifteen hundi-ed millions of tons. The price
of common salt in the Kurrachee bazaar is ten
annas for a camel load of from five to six
maunds ; and by retail four pounds for one pice.
Sindh is not subject to the salt tax, unless such
has been laid on since I left the pro^dnce,
which was the only portion of our Indian em-
pire so exempted, and seemingly without cause,
as the Sindhecs could well afford it, owing to
the low price of that condiment. The Punjaub
realizes a revenue from its salt of nearly 15
lakhs of rupees per annum, and were the tax

298 AGRICULTURE.

introduced into Sindli at the Punjaub rate, viz.
two rupees a maund, a revenue might be re-
alized from it of nearly five lakhs of rupees.
The general average consumption of salt in
Sindh has been estimated at about 12 lbs a head
per annum.

Rock salt is obtained from Pind Dadun Khan
in the Punjaub territories, but there is none to
be found in Sindh.

The implements of agriculture in the Khyr-
poor territory, indeed throughout Sindh ge-
nerally, are of the simplest construction. The
staple produce of Upper Sindh is wheat; of
Middle and Lower Sindh, bajree and jowaree.
In the low lands about Larkhana and in the
Delta rice is cultivated. Manure is not com-
monly in use, unless in the lands contiguous to
villages. When manured and carefully tilled,
the same plot yields one or more crops an-
nually. No rotation of crops is observed. The
supply of water for agricultural pm-poses is
either derived from the natural overflow of the
Indus, or is artificially supplied by canals. In
the higher lands wheels are requisite for raising
the water to the level of the fields. The Per-
sian wheel is generally used throughout Sindh

THE PERSIAN WHEEL. 299

for raising water, though the ^^ moth^^ is occa-
sionally employed, and the latter with the same
labour will raise about one-fifth more water.
The Persian wheel has, however, its advantages,
particularly in gardens, as requiring less space,
from the bullocks moving round in a circle.
The Persian wheel is of two kinds, the hoorla^
worked by a single bullock ; and the churJce by
two, or a camel. The pots are sustained by
grass ropes. The wheels are very coarsely
made, whereby the friction is much increased.
They cost at first about 15 rupees, and the vil-
lage carpenter keeps them in repair, and the
potter replaces the jars when broken for a small
annual payment. The jjairatee is a wheel that
is worked by a man walking on it. Grain is
usually sown broadcast. The corn is trodden
out by bullocks. The yield of crops varies
considerably. In the Sahitti districts of the
Hyderabad collectoratc from 780 to 1300 lbs
per beega is not unknown, whilst in the more
southern portion of the same collcctorate less
than one half that amount is considered a full
average crop. In Upper Sindh, strong and well-
constructed carts arc in use for husbandry pur-
poses, but in Lower Sindh, owing to tlic nu-

300 MODE OF PAYING LABOURERS.

merous water-courses, carts are but little used,
and the camel is universally the beast of burden
and drawer of water. The Sindh plough is as
rudely formed an instrument as can well be
conceived. It consists of one rough-hewn pole,
slightly pointed with iron, drawn by a camel
or two bullocks, and held by one hand. The
whole apparatus is very light, and does little
more than scratch the surface, after the ground
has been well saturated. The seed having
been sown, a harrow consisting of a rough
beam of heavy wood is dragged over it. In
course of the season the grain is weeded with a
small spud called a gunibo.

Agricultural labourers are paid at harvest
time by a proportion of the produce ; indeed, all
Meer Ali Moorad's servants are paid partly in
produce.

The Sindhees go out to field-labour at sunrise
and work till noon, when the women take them
their food and return to prepare the evening
meal. They also take their share in field-la-
bour, such as picking cotton, gleaning, &c.
In the evening families sit in conversation until
they retire to rest. Beyond an occasional

RICHNESS OF CROPS. 301

nautch they have no amusements, and reading
and writing are ahnost miknown.

The crops of wheat and jowaree in Upper
Sindh vie in richness with any in the world ;
they are the great alternate crops in the upper
division of the province, whilst rice is the staple
of the Delta, yielding enormous crops, but of a
coarse description ; and that used by Europeans
or the more w^ealthy natives is imported from
Bombay. The finest rice is, however, grown
about Peshawur, and this latter kind was almost
exclusively used by the Ameers and their families.

The dry crops depend entii'ely on the extent
of inundation. Wheat is sown about November
or December and reaped in A2)ril, being water-
ed from wells, or sown in the lands that have
been saturated by the inundation. Jowaree is
sown about April and reaped in December,
being watered all the time from the river. The
latter is a coarse grain, which forms the chief
food of the lower orders in Sindh. Its stalks
contain a great deal of saccharine matter, and
are a very nutritious kind of forage for all de-
scriptions of cattle. These stalks arc what in
India we call hii'hjj^ and which are given to

302 FLAX AND LINSEED.

cavalry horses during the monsoon, when green
grass is thought rather a washy kind of forage.
There is, however, a prejudice against the use
of kirhy for horses, as it is supposed to be pro-
ductive of farcy. In the rich soil of the valley
of the Indus the stalks of jowaree sometimes
attain the height of sixteen feet, and the head
weighs three-quarters of a pound or upwards.
This crop is thought to draw the soil very much,
as after jowaree they always allow it to lie
fallow for one season. The other diy grains
are barley, bajree, linseed, castor oil, sesamum
or til, and mustard. The oil expressed from
the latter seed is in general use for all purposes
in Sindh, and its odour is most abominable.

Every encouragement has been afforded to
the cultivation of flax and linseed, and fine
crops of this plant are now raised in the dis-
tricts under Government, whose efforts to ex-
tend the cultivation have been successful ; but it
appears that the fibre of the Sindh flax does not
find that favour in the market which was ex-
pected, and that the fibre which has produced the
highest price is that which has been shipped
in its natural state, and whereon the least
labour had been expended. The growth of this

HEMP. 303

plant for linseed will, it is supposed, always
remain remunerative, and the demand seems to
increase as the cultivation extends. Little at-
tention seems, however, to have been paid to
its production in Meer Ali Moorad's country,
but mustard seed is raised there in great quan-
tities, and the crops appeared exceedingly fine.

Several attempts have been made to intro-
duce the American cotton into Sindh, but always
without success, as the plants were invariably
attacked with blight, and the experiment has
at length been abandoned, and the cotton estab-
lishment discharged.

Hemp is cultivated to a very great extent in
the Khyrpoor territory, as, indeed, in every
part of Sindh, for the sake of its seed, which has
an intoxicating effect, and is used in a variety
of ways : viz. Bhanr/a, sulcho or salvia, prepared
from the small leaves, husks, and seeds of hemp,
ground and mixed up with water and other ad-
ditions. This is, I believe, the most general
way of using it, and is what the European
soldiers call '' Green Punch."

Ganjo. The inflorescence of the hemp be-
fore the gum has been expressed ; smoked in a
water-pipe till a contraction of the throat is felt.

304 PAPER MANUFACTURE.

Churrus. The gum of the hemp made into a
paste, and generally smoked like ganjo^ but oc-
casionally eaten, prepared as a sweetmeat.

All these three preparations are considered
highly aphrodisiac, and the use thereof fre-
quently produces madness, delirium tremens,
catalepsy, and other diseases. It is probable
that the numerous instances of impotency to
be met with in Sindh may be traced to the
universal use of these stimulants, especially by
the lower orders. On my first arrival at Khyr-
poor it was rumoured that I was a medical
man, and very numerous were the applications
made to me by men in the prime of life who
were suffering from early debauchery.

The paper manufactured in Sindh is of very
inferior quality ; it is prepared from old fishing
nets and wrought hemp, which are beaten up
in water, with the charcoal obtained from IshJcar
and lime ; this is done in a pit large enough for
a man to work in. A heavy wooden hammer
is the instrument employed, with a horizontal
beam. This is worked by two men treading
on the beam, whilst a third in the pit is occu-
pied in placing the material under the hammer.
These men are hired by the manufacturer for

PAPER MANUFACTURE. 305

about twenty days at a time, but he makes the
paper himself from the above preparation made
into cakes. These are picked in pieces and put
in a cistern of clear water. The manufacturer
sits on the edge, and immerses a wooden frame
upon which is spread a fine roll of thin slips of
bamboo, opened out by means of two pieces of
wood at either side. Upon this the particles
are allowed to settle, and the lateral pieces of
wood being removed, tlie bamboo roll is in-
verted upon a clean board, and being rolled up
leaves the sheet of paper upon the board. After
the paper is dried, it is rubbed and polished with
a stone ; a better description of paper is made
from pieces of China and Europe paper beaten
up instead of hemp. From twelve to fourteen
quires of paper can be made in a day. The
average price is from three to foiu- quires per
ru]oee, according to quality.

The dyes of Sindh are very good, and the
colom'S permanent ; the only colours in use arc
red, saffron, green, yellow, and dark blue.
These are obtained from the safflower, indigo,
iskhar, limes, pomegranate skins, lime, oil, tama-
risk berries, and camel's dung, which are all pro-
ductions of the country ; but turmeric, alum,

VOL. I. 20

306 DYES.

and madder are imported. As a specimen of
the process I give the following receipt : —

Eed dye. Twelve chuttaks of bitter oil are
mixed with the same quantity of iskhar, and one
pound of camel's dung. The cloth is placed
therein for four days, and then dried in the sun
for eleven days. It is then cleaned, and put
into water with two chuttaks of tamarisk berries,
after which it is again dried, and then put into an
earthen vessel containing two chuttaks of alum,
and again dried and washed. Twelve chuttaks
of madder are then put into a large copper ves-
sel with twenty seers of water, and boiled.
The cloth is placed in this until well coloured,
and then finally dried and cleaned.

END OF VOL. I.

JOHN CHIIDS AND SON, PRINTERS.

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