da-4-dtd-o-d-019 6a) heed alae Orerdnn TL pertiay eape waren alee ne ee Coen oie Were ond a arelmle a cee ga tien net ieited aaah Actitie ia iets aad Wsthdtaaes tad fea'eram tre crea ards sag sea we oa gd Ree ee err ee ee ern ieee oor) ener mar Cn Pree iy SS 9) 9 i ppnow ater aeere Sslergersin aris o4 ata ae Os ene War dee arden @ el ated Heat ih toe ae eee PEG EEA coe A teh ae notin wa Siete <0 int 4 4 & FOR nTelos toe Pn or se athe se ede ha gese vase saann ed iat eesee ene cowee CEE Se Ot Ge A EA OO OO Nek wee Poteet dnt lade doree nde Os ON net Were dt © "he se 6-0 oe a deans ine 8A aoe bo hada fee Seas Onn road Sets ‘ Sete ie Ce dae oneal Wee eee Mod) @ Ad td Adela ‘ Selgin remiscncd heads jadatdne Urine: t odode Ceeesaae Tiecetatees a} 4 one arene or 5 saved css a garde et 2 a as a Aaa Ca ogg adi See di dd aed af Wash ate Easain f narq-big Gh seeen, tobe ose abies tae on Bete ieee st ec weave a MaMa aN a eed eee Tylatecneae'itcuiicaseaeeettona' peau a aaet ota utseier it «tected botetiie ata cule suet s Mena ine adnate atathaate per AA Rey penne Penne Vee yeanae iste tay Lidsee iets Caridad eae wed Weeks tavern lenpeta a ighectatnad ais hart acetic ealetatad sib eats eet eae anger ee ae re Pant See ee NE alae ha a dg en ad aaa dd W dia daly oan 6a a alas ae aa 96a n't wed anun aig af tala tna S aeons tee arbey es ae pre Sieari hoes FOr nbae in wee TT ate ae aaa gad al opr nner ion y Pere Wire ® ay y bald ada ow ba tod dna gia dared gems deme ke ee a dek ated Saletan ck a ade dom 4 oe LO haat ee et ustelpa phe soothe ea ee ae Crs eye oe Sh dee ard en Cae Orr ee eee ae ee earn er ert Poe petewe ee oy Poe OR Reon Sonate Nedet ele a tnereti int ase 44 4 acho ord thee ioe goons e OR res catiparrbenrsreare we =r aie geen od eee a vee tt. uM eee a de Dee aaa Vind aieh onan tne det y ae ance acd ah Gad Load oc dat ed a seid dea "i MOraLY deih dided dedeecacu death dese sity alee LM dain ea aor Ooh 8 ae we a Ree pa are earerars peacaree-bipue sete ongee vtec kceseeiny eaten ote ed Agel dtrad: toasblary rasa aoget at sdeae sco CRN he Ro nme ner es A tae bets pipes easy dA A ated 4 Pee Nes Wir wit ely earner) bed 9st dave eld ewe en DOE TR LER Seg Ua ddg de yee te etd i Saat ally ata ae a teal al es rags beers = oe a ee yd ST rad on he aided eS ed dete Ais mae eh arese at 4iete ave hee baat apes Mtg aaseh a toa atu toa dyna. grdce as te Carded a acd nek Cod dag Shaan este een em bier OO ee aicleniantine atti a surpass ae 1 risa are Meee ati gaara gratte : SS MA stata ita tard uate wie sie tes tthe i itabperdaresssece sed espa teas Saat fared etbad artenes atemindeat meter + cecmmace TE ony ne pI AME Ihe RN Ret hada bees Mi Meeidiaainctphigs ceaucerst ara see scstatsen dar paistuseaetaneatl acta § sea saet~eah et we LE Saeeeeae acta Sian Ley eT sae eK deh Seased Durecdiia-dsbbd di deta bev su DOD ockia | ecd-e-ee Ramediaa tee amas whee heae ase cuneate nataee ere ve 6 Od eked Ae PY Y See Sad MEANS tee tach g 6nd bctre etnokons-a $n © r\ Me bddten «eve dee eae awber et ee inne hgh Mitagie aededea a dod aged Sect aren ies a 08 2% Ot Bg Wet Oe Ow mes iene yr jae pen “4 ee Nala rngenoe Orn ee eee r re) neem eee See i meet © nes . ED TE he tee pom Fok eo We te eon sn by sania AP ped dedd ed Vand dient ae heed at hurd ose e pen arh tia table ded} 408 Wed aay ab dedi t 4 doit edeu 4 raeet Fdebas C1 Nl edad bya Sicha dame hah eaer vides aout pet tah daket ede a dot arta once na arate we Cor ere re ee inet elder eden ie Cae toll ba tm bngebaiarecieras cee Teel del bat dd ga dot PO Maes RP AACR hae ATE a tr) Che Caer an idee dee eh Aa Aaa a9 ONG it aces eticee dea eee ot Colyer Ia ts Sti eaten niasdted Yanan tre sy (ad aag a iy telbtaeces at anges Soe emreeeaees = areata coast efacedaaand Sgwrtcientes duoremes ore tae “yee rt sion Cpanel ute orem sae hombres areron eh a aa ee re oe Mnatatage cel HA ee EE EU He Pe PHI Tt ie bt esl wr saa ait dy att eodee PR Edy Retod dee eM da ic ntdeg ceed oUt tary ad 2 ( ere hala ea gteantiaaetay et eatieaed Pere Rott " Sats tay ara sande etedasedate hth datoteau sete seen A OTA Maha ytasinas a dd) ane ded ee benny BG Set ke MRA en HC ORES Re eee CR UI ha eegehtara duende a0 We brady del a dade POR FCM Pte Vey deen itide Dt fede t deh An baat teeth: ete hoe ret are a6: Regs RES NA aT eay aka de Pea ae nS Bada ae Sika en ent eed Vial asa wat ita dear autce eye gov gehtand OO NEM OGRE ee be Spee pre teeactn 4eheanblege ites Sat Oe ET UL ae Catalan g tad Seed NG a ld aga Lod sae Bose De AARB NB dau al Se ee Orcs etree at nea deneretems tienen Phig Mowpyre Phe buck tha ancie yd eM cdetedd Rear Mees vee Matas gral aryaeattecindemsndet tates aden ee dade Dede ts bcd PA'S we Rr CO RAG SEE COR RORIC ne RON Be MMe aR BIOTEC MM RL ee CIR TP ttt hae eden op | eae gece aa ae ae eas vat aca FES 0 Nae te ee EL de ee Pg dello Mot Aad a usle Ut and CTU ek ee a CREP Ope aes Le Nasa dedeea ee iceengene anisdar iia iodgtrnde Ligititiee Dt Meet a Pha wry ded dee RM RE ON TD Te deta ann ge 4a PET a aea a aly Tet ene a Nota ue aa usin SOPet aT YS Ie Ee wer irr Mod Dead edd 6 Ride kB nate dei Aedes Prenat ny ie fae ab ioandet ave eas ae Nov acme eh tes ome Wincact'e pie oben en saben ae Srataedist ia ieoaiascint Aeet aad an SPAT rR ery DO is tai) sia Ueked dea satel et eek RAO : 2 hd uadned wit baie tei) Dan RRO NR AIT ibe nar a Paatdid dew DOR MOM Re MMR Eg ita deatleana cd a diuen Veh seadtea tee ian s7arb carr tenaas TEMA hepeddiaig whl ato ea at aii mrdsaUdeNe pave eked ld Ware aed Ni a Sa HAUT HG tie ils pdvanih vem > At c 10 Sd hadi Wearside od nani ieedauaiiduig detalenras U4 Sieh dae Seb bane ted 4 iby Co mene eG Ldebtot eo 9 ere COCO ey Oe Pe eee ee UR eae ies eee reer ih weave hdres ah Yatbsveds ata at: Ce ee One ne eee Ie) SFP De ery Lied Mbt Mik P Cee Ogre deka AiG deh pede Lie aoe es We eR. ee ee ee a deka ely Wdndbed ai el Taead wad AML ea a eee) 4, + wal eae Tae aA Nagialae dor gt edigonr bie viewers Shea twat ao FH Ti ae ea eo Yigvedse deka sdasg aed Pa tele a hetfid eaaibane eg Vee ree Us Wieebavase tessa ena en & Pith tah pedehe & tee deb ee ie ea Pata radi ecd ined uated a arden dv hit edt ea lett iad eed a avatna Pane ae ae Aevseed Wie Lh a bed novarite dablacheabaeead chien sh reter cer Va agg ae DUA ad lew a dia Or a'9 kaa beg aed tat id dia ed astra said ee 9 A ave eee ve ye AA EW ga Or bee te de tae we babes Pri aad aan Ate Pte a nae Oded ay CK ee J oe deh arte A pin dace na hi-nhy tome ee oye en ee Le oe re: eee oe peter i oe lay a aie sanctions Same oe bootie arid fee on aaa hea Ry aS eae er avtcha ite hts 4 bya « eT eed Bee bette Lot + bei Gt ftp a rake ey be oem * cr DORR Mom 4 ded Gohusdi ag nie Ae ad ae ee PORN Aan ears mer tt He tice dst aia 42 edad deel an oe Satis cattle! COMBE Rae Mae UA Mots Bede lord Be ed) Vadose HMDS nN itd te ER CL a eh ai) be Toh dh ett Oe te aA Maia M ASL a de Biases ad tadL dy Ud as geal Deis CRU AT Re WR RS sca aU ba aU dat it dhe yatta dana a) il Teele An cay tate bore feaatien icici 4 4 Gerbiantse arbee arises Nila usaeavee it catataniess 40 hous fed of on hates eh Jed dihet WOR ICMR RORY A iaveted dicanie S| 7 Hy On Mg aan SAY aoa ate ae Aedes de hla alae tetra 4 CaN ae Nae dye Nets ated eee be eeeadens ad ped oe Pir eens er Pepa Mi ase iN i é: f we tik ol P40) at de be een A 25 a anaes Sac taht te tacal ayaa aenane nce nt Nish dttinged tent tanta Vinhactared awe droga Ur vga: tick Aye) RR I ae Ee LR PA igeteda Vials Oi4id) 9 a Se RTE Hote EN bail Yd a ya! Te ee ieee tet aer bed GoGt ute tet a tytacite pide rie seat rorya 2° art Flom Oat Ha dora Qi and (ern a th Catan denice, DOD aero a POMC RBA reas SUR Lae ed phen nebo Hy dawooida eat al ck ended Pd F ne dare e aye ya ee vay f Ue ded inh dealt age . peared +a eb tn eee aecers alecara ea a 4 ad jae pie re ise aeantck tae ited aie Lane ra bat ey te RAS Oe a Vide at Wage hte . c s \oabsevorecang-oe “ oh Minka dearer dak Lana v aed hier Aided sa ey save it aa TEN od dad RAG: dd hoag) eOabia hk poe Lye nas pre Fey hee MRO O MRO FROLICICILR Ener Fay ha hela deg hia peonine bed open ae PAE hah denied na gts ae athe Fpl el A a Aye 3915914 a vad ed AEG 8 Weide al sea MA ine geal Inet Pap acuaas P12 algedeaiel etd 9 ae Vetted te Oh) ot bot tp tedee ppmse bee Bonkers eh wkrted ee tebe. © babel pada ' i PU Ret reals Seitvetautas ah ae Monee Malan ioe yp sea Sedcbegt etait sgl voehae foSalki aash ae, faded tea somes vegneneeiaien Wns satere ice CaN dal Qt ded ge SRI SUR Lm euaT Me Ruy aiitaih eonetath handed acts teas veh aA bi gegt dike deg Greeees 7 wpe ovichekehs we ta poh tbe he Bey yen) Wa bephia Pag Aa Mea iedal a atid Cay vice aeieg Sina Thieta hy Ie ale a: ech aac ba ea he gaatems a see ads Peer PIT AE me Midd De AE 4 IOI Lee ae “a bee eres ieee POCTELETERS EEL EDL DSS Mihsduatee wiht pa NK ST aijanil dhahy raed bay erga osnaty SS phe pice igen re ; m Vern Diy inp rane sey PERN Cyan Lins bps ber, obubbe ‘ NAGS ta Aa 2 bat us CRE waklediapien Vahey mele rey io raen bogs and Ritivs SD te y ae y atten ee een Py ep stiaeds tre fines ‘. Bday Enders Ni 4 4 Vienne ook NG eatee! epee or dla ea teiet delbre ti deib bel Pee teaiid alg at ded eas naar ged euteateser fhe aE soa #0 | a eae yay epi See ne 2 Per des ay Won) 3s Feed mane Jad Ph be aed tygae Pyeasraa site ate eee Aged Range ha Pe BD ON ee tee ‘i Pet iad er ui 4 Pde Shad Td aoe itentidhmaat ya as es ont ea “ iiaaat yal gaa tel hi Ce ea he O 48 iil ourin teat ni Marea ts eapduscsenage dasear ys oad i} iy Ae aia p Jada dan dei ad gos 0 Sided tial i ahs) rasheal doce betas oe ere y seat ea Se Te: (yd bidet d ebay Bea PE de oe he abe Ty adens va vided 44 old's v Ste me a a Ma 1 Wyaaus Lurear has a Sahat one gee ian ad : Parse try Re Gene DURA Te ler Yea eieat ied) Vea Gee td ay Ba faah riiraey ipl od apg ee Wiisnes ia - Geitenaeed Giga ati ba tg ase feuudieh if a acd dears a erase 3 D i y Pe fia 2 ie Panudientin ot Sew a aiipe anibaris tp mene : CO ee oT aK . 7 ee Pardes Laeh8 Da aaed SPOR Rent Hebe 44 + ey Weediatagarmentta y ieee ea jaiiateisT iia add 3 g ea . pete ne eile . veh é in ta tt a Fiacielet oes ET ben dndowaaene aed aa arent Snes aishiaedltata Toate} rren ; ues y res enone in Maa Aeat ads it dea aad ides nat Ht gt de) Baste Tanh seth “ie Sat dil dal det rye “ ¢ Chee wi va deine alee ad Ai, tava tetas Kah as Oey ai cad Gaye le Rap aa e eae Be orate ae Rastaeotiy henna canta PAE Ante ae Tia Wid aegedi a! die ARTIS ENT aaa a PMC Maa ede enon Tb Maal ncaa it eoties dradape elun pt sieves idea ecyea seas etl | tn isd yatta ie Ae yeaa weaeway od oy ew eo) hia ye § Sa Sistas Ae ie rot i peat , MEE la Miah Bay ty ewrdeh Aree alg pater aan tasratesoubitaai ash dates ean tan Ce aoe ala vb ate Me Dich iracaisiscr hr iv aoe jaggy dente bee ONES PURO yy Let stent aes 2 Re ee pets Pas SS ede. oh ey ee pies hss sidi Pree Epica tr nie wt Hee et a) , Dae Fleet as aa hae elt ps Os ta esis) dideprackare sly sa-d ARedig GiUavori ued ce Tara ararnsdky rl napld ae oa wede den ete taweaeeh bo Kasse deOCtamIAaAcvedc aed Aldea waste ANN 4 Sareea LW bed A PAO aweh 6,4 We dMaae a Mad RAS reset LAA A ¢ STE eS ts sh nines starr . . ae Bi yee alge herein woe SSE SS - rf ‘ RY Sok ebomiRAL SPs pede miar at ae Be Tas Gi paadoge Ud ed dea oe dodow Uiahipbab@ seh aba eted al ed : = TCO eA CA aD OES WE NLL ad 8 hited i dsmnW Om MLR EEF elma B gev eek aww ged LA ah eal a det Corde Wie Oot eed dates ade bia’ abt +e Wes " oy aiearaeens.e ; ARS ARR A Sk Gledliyh yeg 814 ae i a } ‘ i iwi y en pee esa ee ee ceiee © eee ee Saner er nar! daria ed { ‘ ett eer r ee anal ott j : Sis pot eage ay le dye asd wraediaqi essary Woaiaan oes Geek PWN Vode Ske SW RL ON , Bi WApieiae a rere Surreety isda CeCe Peri Rc Oren retin? Wc ne Serato nvemeTtirete si en eo he re tae setae k eerie ceria Lat COR Or Ton tun rit Ween arrester WC ini hina aid goth We MER Me ret en Ba Misty ey Sia v Sicea iq imieem hw Fe heme Lyf pk mete t awies, CTEM Wyn Wg aed ae a eauale 4 PROT i CR en uen ene Prt Pa HU dead am sy We WARM Atanas rsh ti win iara daiwa ik zaiienicacyiw Si lergey recedes OM eta Bie Tgsi-ee di) ce misee eel nd wl arnt PaCS Ady AE ee ATH tO Aosta weve oryek + See eek eed e aovew Ronen ten SOT asead Ap igi aaek ed ms caig 8 idee Oller Pare " : Lareee LO eho Wah Livia agave sda sean pea : ‘i pial aAiarenh koehe att, ; salir ards oye 8 EM EAPU Staton sen a arpis emecres nso sees on ete meses eres etenetcn inl Seees Nla-8 Aye Sew A ume oe weinlecara tie ne bed ote ee igs wie grees a ot EN ENR REIT EE Pemenems cn areas sends ae ee Dee on cree Sher gery Niassa cette nce pete ve osha ROOM ec ert Peru iC eae it eat aoa te SI STS Te pyrene ir en @ every yi ae swt CU Cag SEEN AH Oe Vitae wiald erat ae ee er oy Taiiiay ray eer rain center tit si ate M rn rte Le) Sather ee ii) sag A Nw hey AEN My Showed AO ig eC Li emg WE AVM Sal Nw it CAD el o40 9 b4 a oe veld Su iwaveese yess oo 4 Sone ROC ene eee Pe ener eee rey eae sete w Eh ei we ie eA ve wee Seer hil SS ad ny ult Garey sed waren th sYabs teal rere sede Wier eoseig SA se Ab oredr do ato amt Acectigeere yeep seve ontale woke om seroma pen metdeped pemeemcaitece a selves are eke or: Waban ary aedacew ans aremesqe ss asf error SOE STASI ye eae coe Mav ia Arwrarcuraeyae y, bwcegea aidoalmesehg meaiaeal dears seat ied BepT. cos udm a aor eh cated pec EXE SEN eee aiieariiil ordiaryrd a nadia eed ten Sod NNER ote MERE Cee ema RPC Rated ears See Ob erpranteps en irene Pee araaeee peared eroney ee and poner aaaneae on Saw pong yews dl wld EI NTO i se . Of ay ind ogtur we Ae eere ee Gey ya SRA NaN ae wee SS DE Se ee wey s Uaenew ee wy on heeew we eseeemw ea Rew ar ire mit: Dede haa recaed otaracb ecg We ens ome as ee raed Soe aes a Saree eae pee eae ere ees SaaS Te tee ate VWyacn sid a aaca ne ae Weel i ya Alen a Y “en Wwe en a ee ee ee ee i ete oe Oe ae Asa ent he TSS Se Wh PAS SSS Nghe ccoeon® ‘¢ eee ® oa en ee SSS ESS ORS So BTCA ci Dia ae iardoves's wraty-s Wh were b Serer ert Sea) a eee woncacas. twee ss ivi ake yi wad ee ee eer een ee ee vias tw Wise se ded WN goal asda ROO N ear ree ee ce gt aioe aes Wa eee | bed deed ee Oe Rd eee WU Cuda ged SEO Fa de to 40) (he aed edt ain ese peer rade een grew team Wiavwir y penin ar aval) ow tied aba wanna dalikes ari A Prank went wk ata ioe dane seu 14 seed ela a dd me erm Media de A a Ve mya ce wa med! om Vel) rarurd see nad hw hee ase Jee Wohi Stacy Wie ered de alae DOORS RO treat. Serr winks SEAS SS Pie ret ang As ater re ay a ee ee Pete tte neienshnalons Sess ae Sobek = ni aed ery Ser POTIRN A ERE NT na Wiest ead a cae ne wisn stew ee wane Ws gua ma donate aria meet ts aie Seared eon c oem een ics Cae ON AMON Oe toy ty Bee i teen Rie rr ne ren cic WEAR T EL Lines be de eeu nad wm Peers Wire ire Re et gnee i Wie eto ee ROAM yet ed AAAS 8 rdw ld POLO rr et Orr Le ik dw heey o TA Oe Sa Sera aA A Wien Gary ecard raced ary a Cae Aline Ra RIL AS) “ay ECR ee rion ea ee res eR ESSAY ay es arses SSS Se Spee Seer ae ae mart Yas Slee > erates ATRIA Re Taw veda eta 4 Wakes Se Sen ee eevee irre co) 4 wii Sa ae hdl ay Wa Aad wT aCe rams a Oe cer Ree er cer rie kee iat ae gets weeindaad eet Hed A BA PReEw 4 Ok Ee a ae Wduciaaacy O4d de whee ced td ad ke Cee a ee ee ee See Ree ee FA ow Haka she “araWwiicsoas Sorte eas aes wise ec) See ree nie i seen PC dacaa ta eee sa eed we ae Donen) Vo aod eden 9 ea gw oe ee SAME ONY OR VIGATOR ISLANDS BY THE U.S$.2xK.Exa ASBO> Ss MANUA SAW ONY NAVIGATOR ISLANDS by Tie U.S.Ex.Ex. 1380, Cae AGE eee el: CONTENTS. DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM TAHITI — BELLINGHAUSEN’S ISLAND — ROSE ISLAND — MANUA —ITS DESCRIPTION — THREATENED WAR—ITS CAUSE—CANOES OF MANUA— APPEARANCE AND CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES— VILLAGE— DRESS OF 'THE NATIVES— PRODUCTIONS OF MANUA—OLOOSINGA—ITS DESCRIPTION—HOUSE OF THE KING—HIS ENTERTAINMENT—RETURN TO THE SHIP—CORAL REEF OF OLOOSINGA— OFOO — TEMPERATURE DURING THE PASSAGE— PLAN OF THE OPERATIONS OF THE SQUADRON—APPEARANCE OF TUTUILA—HARBOUR OF PAGO-PAGO—A NCHORAGE—TOA — OBSERVATORY—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF TUTUILA—APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER OF [TS INHABITANTS—MASSACRE OF M. DE LANGLE—VILLAGE OF PAGO-PAGO—GOVERN- MENT —WAR-MATS— VISIT TO TOA—HIS FEAST—PRICE OF PROVISIONS — WAR-SONG— BATHING— MODE OF LIVING—EMPLOYMENTS AND AMUSEMENTS—MR. MURRAY, THE MISSIONARY —CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES—PUBLIC WORSHIP—MISSIONARY — JUNCTION OF THE PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH —SURVEYS—CLIMATE—VISIT TO HEATHEN VIL- LAGES—SAVAGE FEAST—TEMPERATURE AT THE TOP OF MATAFOA—SUPPOSED MURDER —REMARKABLE PHENOMENA OF THE TIDES. CHAPTER TIL. LEW ARUP eS 1839. On the 29th, at daylight, having the wind from the northward and eastward, we got under way, and made sail to the westward, passing the Society Island Group: viz., Sir Charles Saunders’ Isle, Huaheine, Tahaa, Borabora, Maufili, and Moutoiti. All of these, with the excep- tion of the last, are high lands. On the 30th of September, we made Bellinghausen’s Island, which is a low coral island, similar to those which have been already described. It was uninhabited, and is of a triangular form, with the usual vegetation, with the exception of cocoa-nut palms. We landed upon it, and made the magnetic experiments. Birds were in great plenty, and as tame as we had found them at other uninhabited islands we had visited. No lizards or rats were observed, nor was the common fly seen. ‘The lagoon had no passage into it at low water, but the tide flowed into it over the reef. During the time of our stay on the island, the tide rose and fell upwards of two feet, and it was high water at 8 a.m. Many speci- mens of fish were obtained here, of which the department of Natural History will treat. In the afternoon, we again made sail to the westward, for Rose Island, and on the 6th we passed near the locality of the Royal George Shoal, but saw nothing of it. On the 7th, which was the day appointed for our rendezvous off Rose Island, we came in sight of it, and at the same time descried the Porpoise. That vessel had passed by Nairsa or Dean’s Island, and connected the survey of it with that of Krusenstern’s and Lazareff. 68 TUTUILA Both of these were found to have entrances into their lagoons; they are uninhabited, though occasionally visited by the natives of Nairsa Island. The position of Recreation Island was passed over, but no signs of land discovered. Rose Island, the most eastern of the Samoan Group, was dis- covered by Freycinet; who gave it its name. It appears, at first, like a round knoll of land, but on a nearer approach, this is found to arise from a large clump of Pisonia trees, similar to those found erowing in the low archipelago. It is a low annular coral island of small dimensions, inundated at high water, with the exception of two small banks, one of which is entirely covered by the clump of trees. The other is formed of dead coral, without any vegetation. The tide was found here to rise about four and a half feet, the flood setting to the eastward. ‘The breakers on its weather or southeast side are heavy ; and there is an entrance into the lagoon having four fathoms depth of water through it. The lagoon has from six to twelve fathoms in it. A remarkable coral formation, like a submerged tree, thirty feet in diameter over its top, was found in the centre of the lagoon, rising to the level of low water, and having all around it a depth of six fathoms. The currents set regularly out and in to the lagoon, according to the state of the tide. In stormy weather the sea must make a complete breach over the reef. Some boulders of vesicular lava were seen on the coral reef; they were from twenty to two hundred pounds weight, and were found among blocks of coral conglomerate. Birds were seen flying over the island, and on landing we found them in great numbers and very tame. ‘The frigate-birds, and boobies (sula), whose nests had before been observed on low bushes, were here found on the tops of trees fifty feet high. ‘The noddies laid their eggs on the parts of the island destitute of vegetation. Tern were in great numbers; their breeding-place was in a thicket on the weather side of the island, or that which was exposed to the wind and sea, and was remarkable from the regularity with which the eggs were placed, about three feet apart, without any nest, and with but few exceptions, out of many thousands, each egg lay separately. The colour of the eggs is a dirty white, mottled with brown. The noise made by these birds when disturbed was almost deafening ; but on making a loud sound, such as the firing of a gun, their cries would cease for a moment or two, producing a singular stillness. TUTUILA., 69 Several small turtle, similar to those seen at Honden Island, were observed here. One of them was taken, but its flesh proved coarse, and was dryer than that of the green turtle: they feed upon a species of fucus that grows upon the reefs. Here we made observations for intensity and dip. On the 7th, we left Rose Island and stood to the westward, making at sunrise the island of Manua, which is two thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. It has the form of a regular dome, rising in most places precipitously from the water to the height of three or four bundred feet, after which its ascent appears more gentle and even. It is sixteen miles in circumference, is well covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and has many cocoa-nut groves on its north- west side. On approaching it, Oloosinga was in sight, and shortly after Ofoo. These two islands le to the northwestward, at the distance of about four miles. The boats were lowered, and sent to trace the shores of the island of Manua, for the purpose of surveying it; whilst the Vincennes and the Porpoise passed on each side. This island is inhabited. The principal settlement is on the northwest side, and there is anchorage for a small vessel near the shore, where there is a cove to land in, with but little surf during the fine season, or from April to November. It has a shore reef of coral, and the soundings extend off some distance, eight fathoms beg found four hundred yards from the shore. Some large blocks of vesicular lava were seen on its northeast point, but the general structure was a conglomerate of a drab colour, in horizontal strata; yet the beach was of light-coloured sand, formed by a mixture of coral and shells. Our arrival off Manua was opportune. According to the statement of one of the brothers of the king, who spoke a little English, hostili- ties had been threatened between the “missionary” party, and the “devil’s men.” A native missionary, resident in the island, had already prevented a battle, by telling them that if they wished to fight with each other they must first kill him. Through his influence, and exemplary conduct, peace had hitherto been preserved. It was stated that several “very bad’? white men were on the island, and that they made “plenty of fight; but that on seeing “ man- nawa’ (man-of-war), they had gone into the “bush.” VOL. II. 18 70 UD WAG Eight of these men had deserted from an English whaler, whose boat they had stolen. ‘Three of them came alongside of us next day, clad after the manner of the natives, and were very anxious to be taken off the island. The canoes of these islanders were the best we had seen. ‘They are built of a log, having upon it pieces fastened together, to raise them sufficiently high. ‘They are thirty or forty feet long, and are partly covered in at both ends. Some of them are capable of con- taining twenty or twenty-five men, and are very swift. The chief usually sits cross-legged on the forward platform or deck. They have an out-rigger which is not so far removed from the canoe, and renders them more liable to be upset. Several of the natives came on board. ‘They were a finely-formed race, and appeared lively and well-disposed, though in a much wilder state than those of the Society Islands. Our party, on landing, were immediately surrounded with natives willing to trade, and calling out for “bacca,” (tobacco,) which is in great request among them. Fish-hooks were also much sought for. A fowl, a bunch of bamboos, and a dozen of cocoa-nuts were pro- cured for a small one. They seemed willing to exchange any thing they had, viz., baskets, mats, spears, clubs, &c., to obtain these articles. They were not found altogether honest, though this did not consist in stealing, but in selling their articles twice over; for after we had made a purchase from one, another would claim the article as belonging to himself, and insist on also receiving a price for it. Near the village are thick stone walls, imtended to all appearances for defence. The houses are elliptical, supported on stout posts about four feet high, from which the roof or thatching rises to the height of twelve or fifteen feet; they are generally erected on a raised terrace of stone, two feet above the ground. The floors are covered with coarse matting. The king or chief of these islands, resides at Oloosinga, in conse- quence of its being more easily defended. The dress of the natives consists only of the maro, made of the leaves of the Dracena, which has a graceful appearance. ‘The leaves are slit, and form a kind of short petticoat. The tattooing is of the same kind, as will be described in the general account of the Samoan Islands. UD UpT VAr 71 These islands furnish pigs, fowls, sweet-potatoes, fruit, and some taro. The vegetation was thought to be more luxuriant than at Tahiti, and the climate moister. Many running streams were observed coursing down the sides of the island. When off the eastern end, we were much surprised to see the natives plunge off the rocks into the heavy surf to reach our boats. After our party reached the ship, we made sail for Oloosinga, where I went on shore to see the king or chief, who was old and decrepit. His name is Lalelah. His brother, and presumptive successor, was with him, and met me as I landed from the boat. His mode of salutation was by taking my hand and rubbing the back of it against his nose. The old man, I was told by the interpreter, could speak a little English, but I could not understand him. This he attributed to his age, and would not admit that it was owing to his ignorance of the language. They led the way to his hut, situated under a mural precipice about twelve hundred feet in height. The island of Oloosinga is a narrow ledge of rocks, rising nearly perpendicular on both sides, and is three miles im length. So preci- pitous is it at its ends, that it is impossible to pass around it on the rocks. The strip of land is about five hundred yards in width, on which bread-fruits and cocoa-nuts grow in great profusion and sufhi- cient abundance for all the wants of the natives. ‘They told me that this island had been chosen as a place of safety, since the other became unsettled in consequence of the wars of the Christian and Devil’s parties ; and that the island of Manua had formerly been the residence of the king, but that he found himself unsafe there, and had taken up his abode at Oloosinga, on its northwestern side. His house was elliptical in form, and thirty feet long, erected on a well-flagged terrace of stone, about four feet above the ground. It was well shaded with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, and was supported around by ten stout posts, with three others in the centre reaching the top. ‘The roof came down within three and a half feet of the ground, and projected as eaves about eighteen inches or two feet. In the centre the hut was fifteen feet high and well thatched. The whole floor was ordered to be spread with fine mats, which were carefully unrolled, and laid over the coarser ones on the floor. The king then seated himself in the centre, and desired me to take a seat between himself and brother. Shortly afterwards two large 72 TUTUILA. wooden trays were brought in, filled with cooked bread-fruit and covered over with leaves. One of these was placed before me, when the king made a long speech, giving me welcome and offering food to eat. I was then desired to hand some to the king and his brother, and to others who were pointed out to me. ‘This I did, but unfortunately continued my task, and handed it to one of the Kanakas, or common people, who were sitting close around us; much displeasure was evinced, accompanied with angry looks. I now looked around for my men, but they were out of sight on their return to the boat. In order to make the best of my situation, I asked what was meant, and feigned to be quite ignorant of having given any offence. After a minute they were apparently appeased, and pleasant looks were restored. They handed round a shell containing cocoa-nut oil to dip the bread-fruit in, and another containing salt water. After we had eaten, they began a careful examination of my clothes, and appeared much pleased with the buttons. My pocket-handkerchief was taken out of my pocket, and spread on the mat to be examined by the king. His brother took off my hat, and put it on the top of his large bushy head. ‘They then had ava made, of which I could not partake, after seeing the process of making it. It is first chewed by the women and thrown into a large bowl; water is added to it, and it is then strained through leaves. This was partaken of by them all, while they gave me a fresh cocoa-nut. They were becoming more familiar every moment, and it was getting late, so I thought it time to make a move. I therefore rose up, and was followed by the natives, in number upwards of a hun- dred, including the king and his brother, to the boat. I looked carefully around for arms, but saw none among them. My boat was aground: the king, his brother, and several others, got into it, saying they must have some presents. ‘They seemed disposed to resist, and showed a determination to contest our getting off. I on the other hand was determined to get rid of them, and peaceably if I could; I therefore ordered the boat’s crew to arm themselves, and drive every one of the natives from the boat, at the same time intimating to the king to use his authority, which I found, however, existed only in name. We thus succeeded in getting clear of the crowd, until we had no more than eight left; to each of these I presented a small fish- hook, and ordered them to get into the water, which was about a foot deep, and go; this they did, one by one. At last came the king and TUTE WN LA: 73 his brother’s turn, to whom I presented, with great ceremony, first a small and then a large fish-hook ; after which they left me, appa- rently in great good humour. I was heartily glad to be rid of such rapacious troublesome fellows so easily, and without a fight. We then pushed our boat off. When just beyond the reef, in taking up our anchor, the boat had the appearance of returning again on shore. On seeing this, a great shout was set up by the natives, and one of them immediately advanced with my powder-flask. He said it had been taken by a boy out of the boat, and had been dropped into the water, to be picked up after we had shoved off. I gave the mana small present for his apparent honesty; but I am inclined to believe it was the fear of detection, and the belief that we had missed the article, and were returning for it, that induced them to give it up so willingly. It was some time before he could be made to understand what the reward was for, but when he found it was for his honesty, he laughed heartily. This having excited our suspicions, the boat’s crew informed me that a canoe that was paddling off had been alongside the gig, and that they felt satisfied that the natives had taken something from us. It being in our course towards the ship, we gave chase, and being favoured by the wind, soon overtook the canoe, to the great fright of the two natives, who were paddling with all their might, and whose eyes were full of tears when overtaken. ‘They had nothing at all in their canoe, and after examination it proved we had lost nothing. To console them for this alarm, I gave them a few trifles, and they became easy and cheerful. The coral reef around this island was different from any I had hitherto seen. It consisted of two regular shelves, the outer one from fifty to sixty feet wide, and the inner in places measuring one hundred and forty feet. A distinct mark of high water was measured along the beach, and found to be twenty feet above the ordinary sea-tide, which has from four to five feet rise. The rock at Manua was volcanic conglomerate, with large blocks of vesicular lava lying loose on the coral beach. Before sunset the boats returned to the ship, having completed the survey of both islands. Ofoo les to the westward of Oloosinga. There is a passage for boats of about a fourth of a mile in width between them, and anchorage on the western side. Ofoo resembles Oloosinga, and from the accounts we received, it has but few inhabitants; those of VOL. II. 19 74. TUTUILA. Oloosinga having made war upon them, and killed the natives off. There is a small and comparatively low islet off its western end, near which there is an anchorage. After sunset we bore away for Tutuila, which can be seen in fine weather from these islands. The temperature in the passage from Tahiti to the Samoan Islands had increased from 77-6° to 81:11° in the air; and that of the water from 79-6° to 81-6°. As it was my intention to make a thorough examination of this group, I resolved, in order to accomplish it in the least possible time, to divide the squadron, so as to put all the remaining islands under examination at the same time. The island of Tutuila being the most central, and from the information I had obtained, the best position for my astronomical observations, I selected it for the Vincennes. That of Upolu was reserved for the Peacock and Flying-Fish when they should arrive; and in case of their being detained longer than I anti- cipated, I should be ready to take up the survey of the latter, or assist in completing it. ‘The Porpoise was ordered to examine the island of Savaii; -and one of the naturalists, Dr. Pickering, was directed to join her, for the purpose of exploring the interior of the island during her operations in its vicinity. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold was therefore directed to land him for the purpose, and take him on board when the survey should be concluded.* On the 10th of October, we had light winds, in consequence of which we did not reach Tutuila that day. At daylight on the 11th we were near its eastern end, and off the island of Anuu. About eight miles to windward of the harbour of Pago-pago, we were boarded by several canoes, in which were some natives, with a white man by name William Gray, whom I retained as interpreter during our stay here, and found of much use. The island of Tutuila is high, broken, and of volcanic appearance. It is seventeen miles long, and its greatest width is five miles. The harbour of Pago-pago penetrates into the centre, and almost divides the island into two parts. It is less varied in surface than the Society Islands; and its highest peak, that of Matafoa, was found to be two thousand three hundred and twenty-seven feet above the sea. The spurs and ridges that form the high land are lke those of Tahiti: precipitous, sharp-edged, and frequently rise in mural walls from the water to a height of three or four hundred feet, showing the bare * For orders, see Appendix V. TUTUILA. 15 basaltic rock. Above this height, the surface is covered with a luxuriant vegetation to the very top of the mountains; the cocoa-nut tree and tree-fern give the principal character to this beautiful scenery. Dead coral is seen along the shores, above high water mark. The harbour of Pago-pago is one of the most singular in all the Polynesian isles. It is the last point on which one would look for a place of shelter: the coast near it is peculiarly rugged, and has no appearance of indentations, and the entrance being narrow, is not easily observed. Its shape has been compared to a variety of articles; that which it most nearly resembles is a retort; it is sur- rounded on all sides by inaccessible mural precipices, from eight hundred to one thousand feet in height. ‘The lower parts of these rocks are bare, but they are clothed above with luxuriant vegetation. So impassable did the rocky barrier appear in all but two places, that the harbour was likened to the valley of Rasselas changed into a lake. The two breaks in the precipice are at the head of the harbour and at the Pilot’s Cove. The harbour is of easy access, and its entrance, which is about a third of a mile in width, is well marked by the Tower Rock and Devil’s Point. About three miles to the southward, off the mouth of the harbour, there is a coral bank half a mile long, on which the sea breaks in 76 ET TSU Tats gAe stormy weather; the least depth of water found on it was four and a half fathoms: the depth increases to the eastward, towards the island of Anuu. As we arrived off the harbour the wind grew light, and finally came out ahead, thus compelling us to beat in to our anchorage, under the direction of Edmund Foxall, a white pilot. He usually comes off to vessels when within two or three miles of the harbour, on a signal being made. We made many tacks before we reached our anchorage, which was in deep water, twenty-nine fathoms. About half a mile from the entrance of the harbour, it bends at right angles. In this position, surrounded by cliffs, the firmg of a gun produces a remarkable reverberation, resembling loud peals of thunder. We were surrounded as soon as we entered, by a large number of canoes, filled with natives, who all seemed delighted with the ship and the number of men on board. When we had moored, one of the principal chiefs, whose name was Toa, was admitted on board ; he was an athletic, muscular man, of large frame, about forty years of age, with a pleasant expression of countenance; he mani- fested great pleasure in welcoming us. He began by telling me, through the interpreter, that he was a missionary; that he had formerly been a great thief, and a doer of many bad acts, but being now a missionary, he was reformed and stole no more. He told this with such an open expression of countenance and so much simplicity, that I could scarcely forbear smiling. After I had finished asking him questions, he continued eyeing me from head to foot, as if deter- mining my dimensions. I told the interpreter to ask him why he looked at me so intently. He replied, that he had a coat on shore that was too tight for him about the arms and chest, and he believed it would fit me: if so, he should be glad to exchange it for the jacket I had on. Not being inclined to this exchange, I ordered a small hatchet to be given him. ‘This gratified him much, and he instantly went over the ship’s side to show it to his friends. This same Toa is chief of the village of Fungasar, about three miles distant from the harbour, on the north side of the island. He learns to read and write, being taught by some of the small children, and attends school regu- larly. He became of great use to us, and was a constant visiter. During one of his visits on board, he espied some red umbrellas among the presents, and from that time was continually endeavouring to obtain one for his wife, and brought many articles in the hope of inducing us to part with it in exchange for them. The day after our arrival a place was chosen for our observatory, TUTUILA. a) a and the tents and instruments were landed. Understanding that I wanted to see the sun and stars, I was told by Mr. Murray, the white residents, and natives, that I should have little weather for observa- tions for the next fortnight, which proved literally true, with the exception of the last two days. The geological character of this island is similar to that of Manua ; it has only a shore reef of coral, and soundings extend some distance from it. It has many desirable ports or bays on its north side, where vessels may obtain wood, water, and supplies. ‘The best and safest port, however, is that of Pago-pago, on its south side, which affords a safe harbour for vessels to overhaul, and where supplies may be obtained in abundance. Pago-pago is thickly settled round its shores, and particularly at its southwestern end: this is lower and more easily cultivated than the eastern, which is high and rugged. ‘The only communication is by the sea-shore, the hills being too precipitous and difficult of ascent, to pass over. The men of Tutuila are a remarkably tall fine-looking set, with inteligent and pleasing countenances. In comparison with the Tahitians, they would be called sedate. The women are far from being good-looking, with the exception of some of the younger ones. ‘hey are remarkably domestic and virtuous, exhibiting a strange contrast to those of Tahiti. Here there is no indiscriminate intercourse, the marriage tie is respected, and parents are extremely fond of their offspring. ‘The inhabitants are disposed to be hospitable to strangers, although they expect re- muneration for it. Travelling is generally believed to be safe throughout the island of Tutuila, and the natives, as far as our experience goes, are not the blood-thirsty race they have been re- ported to be. ‘The unfavourable estimate of their character has, I presume, been derived from those who first knew them, and particu- larly from their attack upon the expedition of La Perouse. Of this conflict I obtained the following particulars from the Rev. Mr. Murray, who had them from an old man, who was a witness of the affray. ‘The latter is the only imdividual now alive in the settlement who was present when it occurred, and his testimony was corrobo- rated by others who had heard of it from those who witnessed the scene. On the morning of the massacre, the vessels stood in towards the land. About noon the boats went ashore, as recorded by La Perouse, VOL. Il. 20 78 TUTULL A and while on shore, a number of canoes belonging to the island of Upolu (to which Tutuila was at the time subject), went from the shore, and proceeded directly to the vessels. When these canoes were alongside, a young man in one of them laid his hand on an iron bolt in some part of the ships, with the intention, it is supposed, of stealing it. He was fired upon by the French. ‘The ball passed through his shoulders, and mortally wounded him. ‘The natives, on seeing the effect of the shot on one of their number, were greatly enraged, and immediately left the vessels, and hastened to the shore, where they found the boats that had gone to get water. On reaching them, they began the attack, which resulted in the massacre of M. De Langle, and of those who were with him on shore. When the natives began this attack, the great body of the French were absent from their boats; some were in the bushes gathering plants, and others talking to the females. On the commencement of the disturbance, they all rushed towards their boats, and the confusion became general. The minute circumstances of the affray, farther than the above, cannot now be ascertained from the natives. They are, however, very clear in reference to the cause, and to those who were the actors in it, viz., the natives of Upolu. The Tutuilians maintain that they endeavoured to save the lives of the French, and on the following day, as soon as they dared to venture from the mountains, whither they had fled during the massacre, they collected the bodies, which they found in a state of nudity, dressed them in native cloth, and buried them in the beach, as they were accustomed to bury their own chiefs. The actors in the massacre proceeded at once to Upolu, which will account for their having been afterwards seen there, and recognised by the French. Our inquiries relative to the spot where they had buried the bodies, were not satisfactorily answered. How the carpenter’s son escaped is not known. He is said to be still living ata village on the eastern part of the island. There appears to be mention made of a boy among the missing, in La Perouse’s account. Levasu, a chief of the district of Faleletai, was at the massacre of the party of La Perouse. He was then a boy of thirteen years of age. He remembered the occurrence, and that three of the Papalangi were killed. The perpetrators of the deed were some young chiefs from the district, who were on a “ Malanga” to Tutuila. At that time Aana district had the rule, or was the “ Malo” party, and domineered over the inhabitants of the other islands and districts. TUS TU AIO TV Ae 79 The village of Pago-pago contains about thirty dwellings, and a council-house, which is in use as a church, until the large one they are engaged in building shall be finished. Every village has a council-house for the entertainment of visiters, and the accom- modation of meetings. This island is under several chiefs, each of whom rules over a town, district, or bay. The present chief of Pago-pago is Mowna, the adopted son of the last chief, Pomale, who died not long since, leaving an only son, also called Pomale, who from his great modesty lost his inheritance. Mowna was more crafty than Pomale, and understood well his rival’s character. After the death of the old chief, these two young men, about the same age, became candidates for the succession. Mowna, through his intrigues, succeeded in getting the whole family together to decide between them. Both Mowna and Pomale were present, the former appearing dejected, silent, and willing to leave the decision to the meeting; whilst Pomale, when asked who should be chief, said with his usual modesty that he was in favour of Mowna, who was accordingly made chief. Mowna, however, is now so in name only, for Pomale rules in fact. This arises from his good character, and the influence he derives from the missionaries, of whom he is one of the most active and pious supporters, and withal a great preacher. So great is the confidence Mr. Murray has in Pomale, that he is frequently left to take charge of the congregation, during the absence of Mr. Murray in another part of the island. The greatest restraint on the conduct of the chiefs, appears to be the fear of losmg the good name of their ancestors, and of not handing it down to posterity pure and unspotted. This feeling seems to govern their conduct, and from the information I received, may be made use of as an appeal to them, to avoid doing evil, and to do right. The missionary, the Rev. Mr. Murray, deserves the greatest credit for this state of things. He has unbounded influence over the natives, and deserves it. The ten commandments are the common law of the island, wherever Christianity has taken root, and any infringement of them is surely punished; the guilty persons being put out of the church, and denied the privilege of attending worship. They are looked upon as having fallen, and are consequently avoided. This fear of public opinion, I was informed, was found to be sufficient to deter them from the commission of crimes and immoral practices. 80 AU SMUG TEN EAS The tapa or rugs worn by distinguished chiefs, were preserved, and were formerly much venerated by them. Since the introduction of Christianity, however, such has been its influence that they will now readily part with any thing of the kind. Pomale was induced to let us have those in his possession, and also exchanged the ‘“ war spirit” mat for a small present for his wife. On the 17th, our friend Toa gave us an invitation to visit him at his town of Fungasar, on the north side of the island. It is situated on the next bay to that now called Massacre Bay, where De Langle was killed. The path across the island is a very difficult one to travel; it leads up through the valley, and across the dividing ridge, which is quite precipitous. The rain which had fallen made it very slippery, and the journey was fatiguing to those not accustomed to this kind of walking. I was much struck here with the manliness and intelligence of the natives, with a frank open expression of countenance. The colour of their complexion is rather darker than that of the natives of Tahiti. The outlines of face and figure are very like those we had left, their hair and eyes black, and their teeth good and white. Some of them had frizzled hair, but it was generally straight. Just before arriving at the village, we were met by Toa, and some of his relations and attendants, who welcomed us to his village, saluting me by rubbing his nose with my hand; this is the usual custom. He ordered a pig, taro, bread-fruit, &c., &c., for our entertainment. These were cooked in the universal Polynesian mode, by being covered up ina hole with hot stones. We were soon told that the feast was ready, but having had some experience of their cooking, we desired it might remain in the oven a little while longer. Their usual custom is to take it out the moment that the taro is cooked, and from daily practice they are well acquainted with the time required to cook it. ‘l'his is scarcely sufficient to give the pig time to be warmed through. Our request prevailed, and in the course of half an hour we were summoned to the council-house or fale tele, where strangers are always entertained. We were shown our seats on one side of a circle, while Toa, with his family and friends, occupied the other. The mats, except one, were not very clean. The pig, which must have weighed one hundred pounds, was brought im, and laid with the taro and bread-fruit on banana-leaves. A butcher’s knife was all that we possessed to carve it with. The whole village, old and TUTUILA. 81 young, men, women, and children, who were waiting in anxious expectation for their share, now surrounded us, and made it uncom- fortable to eat, with so many hungry expectants; I made haste, therefore, to divide it, and with it they soon dispersed. ‘The taro was exceedingly well cooked, dry, and farimaceous. ‘The bread-fruit they said was too young, and not being considered good by them, they objected to giving us any of it, but did not hesitate to eat it themselves. A pig is a great treat to them, for although they have plenty, they prefer selling to eating them. All kinds of provisions in these islands are enhancing in value, and will continue to do so. It is remarkable how the prices fluctuate. On some days provisions of all kinds will be exceedingly cheap, and almost any article will be taken in exchange; and then again nothing can be found to please the natives, or induce them to trade, although the quantity for sale is equally as great. It was not a little amusing to see the natives sitting whole days to obtain the price of their fowl or pig, and persisting in their refusal of the offer made: and this was sometimes done by a large number at the same time, all remain- ing true to each other until their poe or food became exhausted, when they would take the earliest opportunity of disposing of their different parcels. In the grove near the village we saw several piles of stones. I was told they were the graves in which they formerly buried the dead, just below the surface. On the top were placed stones, forming a high pile. Now they bury their dead in graves about three feet deep, and enclose them with the Dracena, which grows rapidly, and forms a pretty and neat trellis. Toa became quite communicative, and as he showed me about his village, he told me, through the interpreter, that before the mis- sionaries came, the chiefs all had their “ Aitu” or spirits, which they worshipped, and that they felt themselves obliged to do every thing they commanded. His Aitu were fresh-water eels, which he con- stantly fed in the brook near the village. I visited it, and requested him to catch one, which he attempted to do; but after a long search, turning over large stones, and examining holes, he was unsuccessful. He said there were many in it formerly, and quite tame; but since he had embraced Christianity, they had all been caught and destroyed ; on farther questioning him, he told me that he had himself eaten them; that formerly if any one had touched, disturbed, or attempted to catch one, he should have killed him immediately. He said his eels were VOL. il. 21 82 AM UD) AR TG) 1) 1G Ne ~ very good to eat, and was sorry he could not find any more, and iehed very heartily when I spoke to him about eating his Aitu. I mention this circumstance to show the powerful effect the Christian religion has had upon the ancient customs of this people. After much persuasion, they were induced to sing some of their old war-songs. Mr. Drayton wrote one down as a specimen of their music; the words were written by one of the interpreters. a pa - la nou nou Fo a ] aul l s | | | @ ; E ma | | — + o—e @ Sa =e feces. aan . . - s faa - fi tui - a - la a - la po-po-to ar - fi - ti a mai “Si li ee eee ee / 5 === chet Saal : eae eee ee ae = |i ae | fi ie. mo - le Vai vau fa lau - -ua tai mai le ou To the above they sing a kind of second with very correct har- mony. They do not seem to have any particular air among them, and in singing the above, they did not sound the same notes every time. All their music sounds alike, and the above will give a good idea of it. A translation of the song was made by the same inter- preter, and is as follows. A chief of Samoa attacks an enemy on another island and con- quers. After the victors have embarked safely for their island, they sing as follows : “ Keep her away, and mind the helm.” And when they get home the people sing,— “‘ We are glad you have come to your island of plenty, We have waited a long time for our chief and canoes.” Toa, after his unsuccessful search for his favourite eels, went into the brook for a bath, which he told me he very frequently did during the day ; and it was delightful to see the pleasure he took in it. The natives, indeed, are almost constantly in the water, and, consequently, very cleanly in their persons. Finding that it occu- TUTUILA. 83 pied too much of their thoughts on the Sabbath, bathing on that day has been forbidden. This village contained about forty houses, of a large and commo- dious size, and about two hundred inhabitants, a number of whom were absent on a visit to Upolu. Towards evening, we took our leave of Toa, thanking him warmly for his kindness; we were escorted to the outside of the village by his friends and relations, whilst Toa himself accompanied us to Pago-pago. The natives have no fixed time for meals, eating whenever they feel hungry. Their food consists of pork, fish, bread-fruit, cocoa- nuts, bananas, &c., but principally of taro. All of these are produced in abundance. Water is their common drink, and, notwithstanding cocoa-nuts are so abundant, the milk is seldom used: the trouble of procuring them is too much for them. ‘They use ava made from the Piper mythisticum, and it is the only intoxicating drink they have.* It is never used to excess, although old and young, male and female, are very fond of it. The taste, to one unaccustomed to it, is not pleasant, being somewhat similar to that of rhubarb and magnesia. Their mode of preparing it is the same as has already been described. They sleep on the large coarse mats with which they always cover the floors of their houses. Over these they spread coloured tapas, some of which are also used for nets of protection against the nume- rous musquitoes. For a pillow they use a piece of bamboo supported on small legs. Their hair is frequently shorn close, and coral, lime, or ashes sprinkled over it to destroy the vermin which are generated in great numbers in their tapas and mats. According to old Toa, a native is in a comfortable condition when he has a good house; a well-made visiting canoe; a neat, handy, large and well-formed woman for a wife; a taro patch with a good fence; cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees, with a reasonable number of pigs. The women are now admitted to the same privileges as the men. The chiefs have still great power over the people, although the influence of the missionaries has tended greatly to diminish it. Most of the people look back to the days when polygamy existed * The ava does not, according to the whites, intoxicate in the same manner as ardent spirits, but produces a temporary paralysis, tremors, and a confused feeling about the head ; indistinctness and distortion of vision, somewhat resembling the effect of opium. 84 TUTUILA. with regret, and cannot understand why they are restricted to one wife. They say, “Why should God be so unreasonable as to require them to give up all their wives but one for his convenience?” They pay just attention to their religious duties; morning and evening prayers are always said, as is grace before their meals, and with a devotion rarely to be seen among civilized men. Their amusements seem to be few; their books are constantly before them, and a great portion of their time is employed over them. Old gray-headed men may be seen poring over the alphabet, and taught by some of the youngest of the family. ‘The employment of the men is to cultivate and weed the taro, and to take care of the fences; they also make sinnet for their houses and canoes for fishing. The women are engaged in making mats, and the boys and girls play, and wait upon their seniors. Next to study, fishing is their great employment. ‘This is per- formed by driving the fish towards the nets in shoal water, where they are easily caught. ‘The cast-net is also used. The only amusement we saw, is a game called lafo-tupe, which is played with cocoa-nut shells, and resembles shuffle-board. Mr. Murray is an amiable as well as a truly pious man, and the natives have imitated the example set by him. He studiously avoids any intercourse with them in the way of trade or barter, except so much as is necessary for the provision of his own family, and devotes his whole time to preaching and teaching the gospel. He is one of the missionaries engaged in translating the Bible, many parts of which are now completed, and extensively used by the natives, many of whom read and write well. Their observance of the Sabbath is very strict; and it is impossible to get a native to do any thing whatsoever on that day, but perform his religious duties. They attend church regularly. In Mr. Mur- ray’s congregation there are about thirty communicants, and nearly one thousand attendants on public worship. They come from many of the surrounding villages. Mr. Murray has been here about three years, and the native preachers nine or ten: he is well acquainted with the difficulties of his station, but seemed to feel assured that his exertions were about being crowned with success. He represented to me, that the natives were very tractable, and desired exceedingly to be taught; that they had much application, seemed to comprehend many things, and were certainly not surpassed in intelligence by any of the natives of Polynesia. UE DW Ly At 85 Polygamy, which formerly was practised to a great extent, still exists among those who have not been converted. Circumcision is practised among them. They carry their children in the same simgular manner on the hip, as was shown in wood-cut of the low archipelago. ‘They are early betrothed, without regard to age, the girl being saa, or tabooed, until of marriageable age. During the intervening time, all kinds of native property are accumulated, such as mats, &c., for the bridal day. Two days previous to it, the inhabitants of the district are gathered together for feasting and dancing. On the third day, the bride is produced before the assembled multitude, and the ceremony attendant on marriage that was customary among the Jews performed. After the marriage had been consummated, the dowry was exhibited, and each article being held up, it was proclaimed by whom it was presented ; the multitude, having consumed all the eatables, and ex- hausted their strength in rioting and debauchery, dispersed. Infanticide has never been practised on this island. T have seldom seen a more devout or attentive collection of people than I observed at times in the church meeting, which was held in the council-house at Pago-pago; the new church was undergoing alterations; for on its being completed, it was found it would not accommodate the congregation, when they determined to enlarge it. Upon the conclusion of a long service, they were observed to divide themselves into three parties; one remaining in the church, and the other two repairing to different buildings. ‘The object of this was, that they might listen to instructions from their native teachers explanatory of the sermon, and also receive exhortations to put away all that is unbecoming to the Christian character. ‘The afternoon is employed in further explanations and examinations by the missiona- ries. The native missionaries have also meetings on Fridays. Their mode of singing hymns is peculiar, the whole mass joining in some parts, with all the lungs they could muster. ‘This exercise appeared to afford them great delight. The congregation were mostly dressed in tapas, or clothed in one sort of garment or other ; but the person who attracted our attention most, was the consort of Pomale. From being the wife of the most influential personage, she had received more presents from us than any other; and she endeavoured, on this occasion, to display on her person the greater part, if not all, that she had thus acquired. ‘These consisted of a red calico gown, four or five petticoats of different colours, woollen socks, VOL. Il. 22 86 (0; Ae (Oy Mt Th, 4 green slippers, cap and bonnet, a large plaid blanket shawl, and a pair of polar gloves, the whole surmounted by a flaming red silk umbrella—and this with the thermometer at 87°! It was difficult to keep our eyes off her during the service, and before the end of it, all her finery became awry. The other natives also seemed to have the desire of exhibiting their acquisitions, though these consisted fre- quently of no more than a vest, or a pair of pantaloons, without shirt, or occasionally of a long-skirted coat, without either of the former garments, so that a small roll of tapa was needed to cover their nether parts. Some unauthorized attempts were made to induce the natives to break the missionary laws, by offers of great value in their eyes; they were told the missionaries would not see them. On under- standing which, they pointed to the heavens, and replied, “’There missionary see.” ‘This was conclusive, and a just and severe rebuke. The Peacock and Flying-Fish again jomed us on the 18th of October, in eight days from Papieti. Orders were at once given them to proceed to Upolu, to commence the survey of that island. (See Ap- pendix VI.) ‘They did not sail, however, until the 20th, having been detamed by the winds. The harbour of Pago-pago, though easy of access, 1s extremely difficult to leave, in consequence of the southeast trade winds blowing directly in, and rendering it necessary to make short tacks. Indeed, a vessel no sooner gets headway on one tack, than it is found necessary to tack again. The sea is often heavy at the mouth of the harbour, and the shore is lined with a narrow coral reef all around it. I was glad to see the Peacock safe outside, after beating about four hours. During our stay on this island, the whole was examined, the harbour surveyed, and the principal heights determined. Tide- gauges were kept on the north and south sides, and the observations for magnetic dip, variation, and intensity, made. ‘The temperature during our stay of fourteen days varied from 73° to 88°; the mean temperature was 80°50°. The climate of Tutuila is mild and agreeable, particularly at Pago- pago, where the temperature is lower than it is elsewhere on the island, in consequence of its generally being overshadowed with clouds that hang on the high land. There is usually a fine breeze, which sets in about ten o’clock, and continues until sunset. The nights being calm, much dew falls in fine weather. We had little fair weather during our stay, and the prognostication of the natives TUTUILA. 87 proved too true, respecting the difficulty of seemg the sun and stars. The wind at times was very strong, almost a gale, accompanied by light rain and mist. I was informed that there is a good deal of rain during the year, but seldom such a continuance of it as we experienced. There does not appear to be any particular rainy season, but they are liable to these high winds during the winter months, or from October to March.* I obtained from the pilot a register of the weather from January 1839, till October of the same year, which will show more clearly the state of the climate. (This will be found in Appendix VII.) In our explorations, nearly all the villages of this island were visited by some of the officers of the squadron, and from their report they much resemble each other. Those of Fagaitua and Leone, on the southern coast, are the largest, and are more of the Devil’s towns than the others. One of their customs is truly savage. They seldom use pork as a food, consequently it is a great rarity with them; but at intervals of several months the villagers assemble at a feast, at which thirty or forty hogs are killed, when they gormandize on them for four or five days, or as long as the food lasts. The whole is eaten, entrails and all. Fish and taro are the principal food, and large numbers of the natives may be seen fishing off the coast in fine weather. ‘The kind of fish usually caught are mullet. There is a large kind of worm which they esteem a great delicacy, and which is eaten with much relish. It is impossible to see them sucking down the entrails of the Biche de Mar, Holithuria, and Echina, without disgust. They also eat many of the shell-fish that are found on the shore. The temperature found on the top of Matafoa, at the altitude of two thousand three hundred and fifty-nine feet, was at 4 P. M., 69-4°, whilst that on board the ship was 79°5°. We made an endeavour here to search the reefs at night for shells, with flambeaux or torchlight, after the manner of the Chain Islanders, by which means it is said that many species of shells are taken, which are never seen by daylight. We cannot vouch for this being the case, our experiment not having succeeded. ‘The leaves of the cocoa-nut were either too green or too wet to burn. If success really attends this method, it is a singular trait in the economy of mollusca, which are generally supposed to be partial to daylight. It was my deter- * During eleven days of our stay, the quantity of rain that fell was 4,5, inches, 88 Uru TapAe mination to make another trial, under more favourable circumstances ; but from our constant occupation and fatigue of the crew in the day- time, we were unable to renew the experiment. A few days before leaving Pago-pago, Mr. Murray brought to my notice the account of a murder that was supposed to have been com- mitted on a foreigner at the west end of the island, for the sake of the little property he had about him. ‘The report, however, appeared to me to be too vague to authorize any delay for the purpose of making an examination into it; and finding the man was reported to be a runaway convict, I had no right to interfere in the affair, and there- fore, took no steps to inquire into it. On the 7th of November, 1837, this harbour exhibited one of those remarkable phenomena of the oscillation of the tidal wave. ‘The observations made on it are extracted from the letter of a missionary resident at Pago-pago, to the Rev. Mr. Mills, of Upolu, who obli- singly gave me permission to copy them. (‘They will be found in Appendix VIII.) The weather during the preceding evening was boisterous, with frequent squalls from the east, which continued till 7 a. m., from which time the day was cloudy, with frequent light showers. After 5 Pp. M., it continued to rain until ten o’clock at night. On the 8th, the tide continued to ebb and flow in an irregular manner. The day was fine and very warm. ‘This phenomenon does not appear to have been observed at any other place in the Samoan Group, but was experienced, as will be noticed hereafter, at the Group Hawaii. The peculiar formation of the harbour of Pago-pago, would make it more likely to be observed there than elsewhere. ‘The ordinary rise of the tide is no more than four and a half feet, and neither before, during the continuance, nor after this phenomenon, were any shocks of earthquakes observed in any part of the group where missionaries are settled. NAVIGATOR CLUBS, ETC, CirieASP Mai valve: CONTENTS. DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM TUTUILA—HER NARROW ESCAPE FROM WRECK— APPEARANCE OF UPOLU—MESSAGE FROM CAPTAIN HUDSON—CASE OF TUVAI—COUNCIL OF THE CHIEFS— ARGUMENTS IN BEHALF OF TUVAI—CAPTAIN HUDSON’S REPLY — DECISION OF THE CASE OF TUVAI—HIS BEHAVIOUR—COMPLAINTS OF THE NATIVES AGAINST WHALERS— PEA’S VISIT TO TUVAI—OUTRAGES OF OPOTUNO—VISIT TO MR. WILLIAMS—INTERVIEW WITH MALIETOA—HIS DAUGHTER—REQUEST FOR A COUNCIL OF CHIEFS—THE VINCENNES ORDERED INTO PORT—SURVEYING PARTIES— LAKE OF LAUTO—ITS LEGEND—SUPERSTITION REGARDING IT—MOUNT TOFUA—SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS — GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF UPOLU—STREAMS OF LAVA — CAVERNS — SWALLOWS AT SANGA—WATERFALLS—GIMBLET RELIGION— ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO—FONO, OR COUNCIL OF HIGH CHIEFS—ITS OBJECT—MR. J. WILLIAMS RECOG- NISED AS CONSUL—REGULATIONS DISCUSSED AND ADOPTED—DEMAND FOR OPOTUNO— FONO ADJOURNED—ITS SECOND MEETING—SPEECH OF MALIETOA’S ORATOR—REWARD OFFERED FOR THE APPREHENSION OF OPOTUNO—TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS OF UPOLU— TYRANNY OF TAMAFAGO—WAR OF AANA—DESOLATION OF THAT DISTRICT—ISLAND OF MANONO—ISLAND OF APOLIMA— PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE AT SAVAII—DR. PICKERING AND LIEUTENANT MAURY LAND THERE—SURVEY OF THE COAST OF SAVAII —NATIVE MISSIONARY AT SALACHUA—FELIALUPO—ASAU—BAY OF MATAATUA—PECU- LIARITIES OF ITS INHABITANTS —SAPAPALE — DR. PICKERING’S JOURNEY IN THE INTERIOR OF SAVAII—CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES—FISHING ON THE CORAL REEF— DESCRIPTION OF SAVAII—ITS PEAK—ITS INTERIOR—ITS WANT OF STREAMS—ITS CORAL REEF—ITS SOIL—THE-PORPOISE PROCEEDS TO 'TUTUILA, AND THENCE TO UPOLU — REUNION OF THE SQUADRON—REVIEW OF THE MARINES—EARTHQUAKES. \ CHAPTER IV. UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 1839. TuE surveys of the island of Tutuila having been completed by the 23d November, we made preparations for our departure, and on the 25th we weighed anchor. In leaving the harbour we had a narrow escape from wreck; the almost constant southeast wind, which is fair to a vessel entering the bay, and makes it easy of access, is ahead on going out, which renders egress difficult; it therefore becomes necessary to make frequent tacks, and a vessel must be well manceuvred to escape accident, for to miss stays would be almost certain to bring about shipwreck. When we beat out, the wind was light, and it failed altogether just as we reached the most dangerous part of the channel; we were in consequence brought within an oar’s length of the reef, on which a heavy surf was break- ing. The moment was a trying one, and the event doubtful; all were at their stations, and not a word was spoken. Of my own feelings on the occasion I have no very precise recollection ; merely remembering that I felt as if 1 breathed more freely after the crisis had passed and we were in safety. The afternoon was fine, and we sailed along the southern shore of the island, admiring its diversified surface, its luxuriant groves, and the smiling villages that crown its bays. Where the valleys come out from between the ridges to the shore, there is usually a level plain extending inwards for a couple of miles; these plains are occu- pied for the most part by groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, beneath whose shade lie the dwellings of the natives. Many of the inhabitants were abroad in their canoes, employed in fishing; some of them scarcely seemed to notice the ship, passing them rapidly with all sail 92 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITL. set, while others appeared to regard her with intense curiosity. In the evening we had much lightning, but no thunder. The distance between Tutuila and Upolu, of thirty-six miles, was soon passed, and in the morning we were delighted with the view of the latter island as we ran down its coast to the westward. It appears much richer and more fruitful than the other islands of this group, and may be described as of moderate height, rising gradually in a succession of ridges from a low shore; here and there, broad and fertile valleys are seen, with numerous streams falling from the mountains in cascades. The eastern portion of the island is much more rugged than the western; the main ridge runs east and west, and ridges or spurs run back to it from the northern coast in a southeast direction. Between these lateral ridges are broad and fertile valleys, decreasing in width as they recede from the coast. ‘The shore is lined with a coral reef, which is now and then interrupted by channels, and forms snug and convenient harbours. At noon we descried the Peacock lying in the harbour of Apia, and shortly afterwards I received a message from Captain Hudson, saying that my presence was required on shore. In the hope that it was not a business of such a nature as to cause detention, I left the Vincennes in the offing, while 1 went ashore in my boat. On reaching the land, I found the chiefs engaged in the trial of a native called Tuvai, who had killed an American named Edward Cave- naugh, a native of New Bedford. It appeared that on Captain Hudson’s arrival the murderer was pointed out to him in the village, upon which he very properly deter- mined to have the offender punished, and gave orders to have him arrested. He was in consequence seized in a house near the water, and carried on board the Peacock. Being taken by surprise, he offered no resistance to his capture. Captain Hudson then requested a conference with the neighbouring chiefs, who in consequence had assembled on the 27th. The fono, as such assemblies are called, was held in the council- house, or fale-tele, where the chiefs were collected. The Rev. Mr Mills acted as interpreter on the occasion. Captain Hudson, through him, stated that the object of his having requested them to assemble was to bring the accused to a trial before them, in order that if his guilt were established, he might be brought to condign punishment : he then pointed out to them the guilt and consequences of the crime UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 93 of murder, and declared the course he had considered it his duty to adopt. The chiefs listened attentively to this address, and in reply, through the principal one, admitted that the man taken was in reality the guilty person, a fact known to every person upon the island. Captain Hudson then stated to them that it was absolutely necessary that Tuvai should be promptly punished, in order that others might be deterred from the commission of the same crime. He suggested, however, that in spite of the universal belief in Tuvai’s having committed the crime, it was proper that he should undergo a trial, or at least an examination, in order that he might have the privilege of being heard in his own defence. This suggestion being approved, Tuvai was brought on shore under a military guard, and placed in the centre of the building. He was an ill-looking fellow, of about twenty-eight years of age, and mani- fested no fear, but looked about him with the greatest composure. The trial was simple enough; he was first asked by the chiefs whether he was guilty of the crime, to which he answered that he was; being next asked why he had committed it, he replied that he had done it in order to possess himself of the man’s property, (clothes and a knife.) The chiefs, among whom was Pea, of Apia, to whom the criminal was distantly related, made every effort in their power to save his life ; stating that he was in darkness, and therefore unconscious of the guilt of the action, when he committed the murder; that as they had but just emerged from heathenism they ought not to be subjected for past actions, to laws they knew not; that these laws were made for people who occupied a more elevated station; that Tuvai was a poor man of no account, and was not a person of sufficient impor- tance to be noticed by a great people like us; that Faa Samoa (the Samoan fashion) did not allow men to be put to death in cold blood, but that after so long a time had elapsed, as in the instance before them, it admitted of a ransom. Pea went on to say, that many bad acts had been committed upon natives by white men, with impunity, and asked whether the Chris- tian religion sanctioned the taking of human life. He then appealed to our generosity to pardon the present crime, and assured us that no such offences should be committed in future. Pea had one of those countenances which exhibits all that is passing in the mind. It was amusing to see him at one time exhi- biting a picture of whimsical distress at the idea of being compelled VOL. Il. 24 94 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATI to put his kinsman to death, and immediately afterwards laughing at something ludicrous which had occurred to him. Pea was seconded in his endeavours by Vavasa, of Manono, one of the finest-looking of the chiefs, whose attitudes and movements were full of grace, and his manner exceedingly haughty and bold. In reply to their arguments, Captain Hudson stated, that however freely other sins might be forgiven, in consideration of their late benighted state, even the darkness of Paganism could not extenuate the crime of murder. He told them that the Scriptures said, ““ Whoso sheddeth man’s blood, by man shall his blood be shed ;” that nothing but the life of the offender could satisfy the demands of justice, and that they must execute the criminal themselves. This announcement caused much excitement; the chiefs again asserted that they knew no such laws; that by the customs of Samoa, the anger of the friends and relations of a person who had been killed was to be appeased by a present from the criminal or his relations, and by a form of submission, which consisted in knocking their heads three times on the ground. ‘To this it was replied, that the guilt of the prisoner had been proved and admitted—he must die. The chiefs, after much reluctance, consented, but expressed great repugnance to an immediate execution. They urged in the most strenuous manner, that the criminal should be carried on board ship, and executed there, or that he should be taken to some uninhabited island and left. ‘These alternatives were refused by Captain Hudson, and the chiefs seemed in great distress. At this point of the discussion, the Vincennes was announced as being in sight, and the proceedings were suspended. An officer was immediately despatched, who, as has been already mentioned, boarded that vessel off the harbour. When I landed, I found the assembly anxiously awaiting the result of my arrival. Captain Hudson and myself had a private interview, in which he detailed all the facts, and stated that it had been his intention to compel the chiefs to make all the preparations for the execution, but before it was carried into effect to come forward and reprieve the criminal, at the same time requesting Mr. Mills to make an appropriate speech, stating the reasons for the pardon. After a full discussion of the whole subject, we came to the con- clusion, that it would be best to transport the criminal to some other island; for it appeared probable that this would have a better effect than even his execution, as it would be longer remembered, while UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 95 to cause him to be put to death might naturally excite a desire of revenge. This decision was at once communicated to the chiefs, with a statement, that in conformity with the laws of Tahiti in such cases, Tuvai should be transported to a desert island, where he would never again have an opportunity of killing a white man. The chiefs, although evidently relieved from the most intense part of their dis- tress, were still much affected by this decision. The prisoner was then ordered to be taken on board the Peacock, whither he was followed by a crowd of natives, with many tears and lamentations, among whom his wife was the most affected. Among others, Pea the chief of Apia, to whom, as has been stated, the prisoner was related, was very much distressed and excited. Unable to vent his rage and trouble in any other manner, he spent it upon the crowd around him, striking in all directions with a huge stem of a cocoa-nut leaf, by which he soon dispersed them. I felt a curiosity to see what effect the sentence would have upon the prisoner. Death he would have suffered without uttering a murmur ; but when he heard he was to be taken from his native land, his firmness was overcome, and he was observed to shed tears. He made no resistance to his being removed on board ship, but after he got there he said he would rather be put to death and buried in his own native island, than banished to a desert one. After this difficult business was arranged, they brought their own grievances before me, and particularly their complaints against the American whalers. ‘They said that some of them had evaded their port charges, and refused to pay for the provisions with which they had been furnished. ‘To this I replied that I was ready to indemnity them for their losses, and should ask no other proof of them than their own statement. They appeared struck with the unexpected liberality of this offer; but after consultation, as if to manifest a corresponding feeling, declined to accept it. I then mformed them that their port charges for the squadron should be paid, which gave much satisfaction, particularly to old Pea, who would derive the principal benefit from them. ‘The fono then broke up in great good humour. Pea and some of the other chiefs were very anxious to hear from me what sort of an island Tuvai was to be put upon. ‘They asked many questions in relation to it, and always among the first, whether 96 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITIL. there would be any cocoa-nut trees, Nature’s first and best gift to them, upon it. Wishing to make the intended punishment as terrible as possible to them, I always replied that there would be none whatever. After Tuvai was again on board ship, old Pea paid him a visit, in the course of which the former melted into tears, howled bitterly, and begged that he might be taken on shore to be put to death, in order that his body might be buried in his native soil. It appeared from information that we received, that this was a part of a concerted plan to obtain a farther commutation of his sentence, and that this affecting interview was got up in order to excite our sympathies. Finding it did not produce the desired effect, old Pea went about the ship with a doleful visage, exclaiming, “ Eoloisa-ia-tu Tuvai’’—have compassion on ‘Tuvai. I was in hopes to find the surveys of Upolu nearly, if not quite finished; but the Flying-Fish, which was to have aided in perform- ing them, had not yet been seen or heard from. ‘This was no small disappointment, as it might compel me to bring the Vincennes into the harbour, and thus incur a serious delay. Before I had decided upon this step, I learned that a chief of the name of Opotuno, whose capture had been considered so important by our government that a ship of war had been despatched for the express purpose, had again become troublesome, and was threatening vengeance upon all the whites who might fall in his power. I there- fore determined to make an attempt to obtain possession of his person by stratagem. Lest, however, such an attempt should create dis- turbance in the island. or be productive of injury to the white residents, I determined, before putting my purpose into effect, to have an interview with the Rev. Mr. Willams, the principal mis- sionary in these islands, both to consult as to the best mode of accomplishing this object, and to learn what effect it would be likely to have on the operations of the missionaries.* I accordingly set out for his residence at Fasetootai, about twenty miles to the westward of Apia, in the hopes of seemg him. Mr. Cunningham, H. B. M. Vice-consul, was kind enough to accompany me. * Mr. Williams is the author of the well-known Polynesian Missionary Researches, and it will be our melancholy office hereafter, to speak of his falling a martyr in his efforts to propagate the gospel. UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITI. 97 We left the Peacock at sunset, and reached Mr. Williams’s snug cottage about midnight. Nothing could be kinder than the welcome he gave us; and the pleasure he expressed at our visit soon made us feel at home. He gave us supper, and provided us with comfortable beds. Shortly after our arrival, another party was welcomed, con- sisting of three ladies and a gentleman of the mission, who were in like manner provided for, without apparent inconvenience. Mr. Williams seemed to me exactly what a missionary ought to be, pious, cheerful, and meek, although resolute. His whole thoughts seemed to be directed to the welfare of those whom he had under- taken to enlighten. His views were pointed not only to the diffusion of the gospel, but also to the extension of the useful arts, and what- ever could tend to elevate the condition and eradicate the vices of the natives. After a long consultation, Mr. Williams came to the conclusion that there was no reason for fearing that the arrest of Opotuno would be the cause of any injury to the whites or missionaries. He said that Opotuno was a blood-thirsty fellow, and that it would be doing the islands a great service should he be removed; that there was not a shadow of doubt that he had murdered twelve whites, of whom several were Americans; that he was a determined enemy to the whites, and in the habit of saying that he would omit no oppor- tunity of killme all who might come within his power. Mr. Williams, however, doubted the success of any attempt to take Opotuno, unless it was made under disguise; for upon the approach of all men-of-war, and during their stay, he lived in the mountains of Savan, where it was csnyposeitlle to find him. The situation of Mr. Williams’s cottage is pretty ; it stands within a few rods of the beach, and is surrounded by a nicely dressed lawn, on which are several fine trees; the background is filled up with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and a variety of other trees. Near by is the tiny ship-yard of his son, Mr. John Williams, who was taken by his father to England, and there taught all the mechanical trades. He has returned thence within a few months, with his wife, and by the aid of a few natives has already built himself a vessel of about twenty- five tons burden, which he proposes to employ in trading among these islands. The next day we returned to Apia. On our way we stopped at Sagana for the purpose of visiting Malietoa, the principal chief of the Malo or conquering party. VOL. II. 25 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATI. we) 0.8) Sagana is a neat settlement, and is regularly laid out; it is situated on a small peninsula, across whose isthmus a stone wall has been erected, for the purpose of protecting the plantations within it from the swine. he village contains about six hundred inhabitants, and there is a school composed of about fifty scholars kept by Mr. Wilson, one of the missionary teachers, son of the missionary at Matavai Bay. No preparation had been made to receive us, for I came unan- nounced ; nor, indeed, had it been my intention to stop, but hearing that this was the residence of Malietoa, and that he was at home, we paid him a visit. He was well advanced in age, and it was generally remarked that he bore a striking resemblance to General Jackson. The resemblance is not confined to that of person only ; for Mahetoa possesses also not a little of the same energy of character. I have rarely seen a place where more attention is paid to clean- liness than at Sagana. A similar regard to neatness prevails in the walks around the village, and in the cultivation of the taro, melons, and bananas, which is carried on in the immediate vicinity. The paths leading to these cultivated grounds pass through fine shady groves. ‘The preservation of the broad walks and paths appears to be rather an amusement than a labour to the villagers. Here Malietoa was seen in his domestic circle, with his wives and children around him. I found him in a small house, enjoying the afternoon breeze, with his daughter playing about him. She was about fifteen years of age, and decidedly the prettiest girl we had seen in this group; her name was Emma, and she was as intelligent as she was pretty. The chief, whose hair was white with age, made us warmly wel- come, and wished to go over to his fale-tele to receive us as became chiefs, but this I would not permit. His wives busied themselves in getting things in order, very much after the fashion of other parts of the world, when a stranger arrives unexpectedly. In a few minutes the fine mats were laid, the stools, calabashes, and straw put away. A clean shirt was slipped over the old man’s head while my attention was called off to another object. Malietoa’s house was not larger than the others in the village, and exhibited no other difference from them than in containing a dais or platform, occupying about a third of it, and raised about a foot higher than the rest of the floor. When the domestic arrangements were completed, large bunches of bananas and fresh cocoa-nuts were brought in and presented to us. UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITI.- 99 Mr. Wilson was an excellent imterpreter, and by his aid I had a long and agreeable talk with the old chief, who, when his wars were touched upon, appeared full of fire and animation. I intimated my desire to have a conference with the ruling chiefs, for the purpose of transacting business, whereupon he readily assented to call a fono, and appointed the 4th of November as the earliest day on which he could possibly get the chiefs, a part of whom must come from Savaii, together. This day he named himself, after having made a reckoning of the six intervening days upon his fingers; I observed, however, that he found it necessary to repeat the count several times. Having transacted this business with him, and regaled ourselves on his hospitable fare, we took our leave. On reaching the Peacock, I found that none of her surveying parties had returned, and the Flying-Fish was still missing; I thus became satisfied that I should be detained here for several days. I therefore sent orders for the Vincennes to make for the harbour, where she anchored in the afternoon near the Peacock. The next day, parties were despatched in various directions, so as to bring all parts of the island under examination at the same time. One of these excursions was made across the island. On arriving at the highest point of the ridge, between Siuma and Siusinga, which has an elevation of two thousand and fifty feet, and just before the descent began, a clearing was found, in which were two mounds of earth, each about fifteen feet high, and one hundred and twenty feet in circumference ; several stone walls were also seen. In respect to these, there is a tradition that they were built by the warriors of Vavao, who invaded Upolu, and after their predatory warfare along the coast was over, occupied this commanding position for the purpose of cutting off the communication between the opposite sides of the island. The trees growing on these mounds are nearly two feet in diameter, and the missionaries have inferred from their inquiries that the invasion referred to occurred seventy or eighty years ago. Messrs. Dana and Couthouy visited a lake called Lauto, which lies to the westward of this pass, and in the centre of an extinct crater. The edge of the crater was found to be two thousand five hundred and seventy feet above the sea, and the descent thence to the water of the lake is one hundred and twenty feet. These gentlemen succeeded in obtaining a line of soundings across the lake, by cutting down trees, and forming a raft of them. They found the depth in the 100 UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL middle nine and a half fathoms, decreasing thence gradually in all directions to the shore. ‘The form of the lake is nearly circular, and it has a subterranean outlet. ‘The hill in which this crater is situated is conical, and there is a low knoll at some distance to the south of it, which is the only other elevation in the neighbourhood, above the general height of the ridge. The border of the crater is clothed with the usual forest foliage of these islands, which, however, exhibits here more than usual beauty, being decorated with the finely worked fronds of the arborescent ferns, in widely-spread stars, and the graceful plumes of a large mountain palm. The poets of the island have appreciated the beauty of the place, and allude to the perpetual verdure which adorns the banks of the lake, in the following line : «¢ Lauuto’o e le toi a e lau mea.” ‘¢ Lauto, untouched by withered leaf.” There is a legend connected with this lake, that has more of poetic beauty and feeling than one would have supposed to exist among so rude a people. It is as follows: Many generations since, during a war between Upolu and Savaii, a number of war-canoes from the latter island crossed over to attack Ulatamoa (or, as it is now called, Ulumoenga), the principal town in the district of Aana. At the time of their approach, two brothers, To’o and Ata, chanced to be paddling their canoes in the channel between the reef and the shore, and before they could reach the land were attacked by a party of Savaiians. After a valiant defence, Ata was overpowered and slain, while 'l'o’o narrowly escaped the same fate. Overwhelmed with sorrow at the loss of a brother whom he tenderly loved, To’o retired to a neighbouring mountain, and burying himself in the darkest recesses of its forests, made them resound with his bitter lamentations. At length in his wanderings he came to the summit, where, stooping down, he scooped out with his hands a vast hollow, and, leaning over its brink, suffered his tears to fall in until it was filled. The lake thus formed has ever since borne the appellation of Lauu-to’o. The regard of To’o for his brother’s memory was further evinced by his adoption of Ata’s name, conjoined to his own as his family UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL 101 title, and the appellation of Toomata, a contraction of 'To’o-ma-ata, is retained by his descendants, who are still chiefs of note in Upolu, and from whom the tradition was derived. The lake of Lauto is regarded with superstitious dread by the natives, who believe it to be the abode of the spirits, who, in former times, were regarded with great veneration, and worshipped. ‘These were supposed to inhabit the waters of the lake, in the shape of eels, as thick as a cocoa-nut tree, and two fathoms long. The attempt of our gentlemen to explore it was looked upon as such a profanation that their native guides left them, and regarded them as persons doomed to accident if not to destruction. The eels were represented as so savage and fierce that they would bite a person’s leg off. No eels, however, nor any other fish, were seen in the lake. In the neighbourhood of the crater no rock was observed in place, nor any light scoria. Only a few fragments of stone were scattered about. The cone of the crater of Lauto, is flatter than the others of the same character that were visited, and particularly than that of Mount Tofua. This is the westernmost of them all, and les behind Fase- tootai. It rises so boldly, that it is seen distinctly from the sea. This, with all the other craters, are situated upon the central ridge, and the most conspicuous of those which remain, are Siusinga, which lies behind Sagana and Faliata. There is also one upon Mount Malata, in the rear of Fangaloa, and another on the southern side of the island, near Salomana. The part of the ridge on which Tofua is situated, is much lower than the cone itself, and has gradually declined from its eastern end. The ascent from Fasetootai has, for the first three or four miles, an almost imperceptible rise ; after this, the slope increases rapidly until it becomes quite abrupt. Even in the steepest parts, however, the rock was rarely visible, but is covered with a deep and fertile soil, arising from its decomposition, and mixed with vegetable mould. The whole declivity, from the very summit of the peak to the shore of the sea, is, like other parts of the island, clothed with a dense forest, which shuts out all view of the ocean, except from the top of the mountain. ‘The ridge whence the cone rises was found to be one thousand one hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, and the angle of ascent thence upwards, was from 40° to 50°. The top of the peak, which forms the edge of the crater, is not more than fifteen feet wide in any place, and sometimes not more than half as VOL. Il. 26 7 102 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL much. It is of uniform height, and has a circular form; the cavity within it was estimated as having a circumference of about two and a quarter miles, and occupies the whole summit. The depth of the crater was found to be three hundred and sixty feet, and the whole of its interior is filled with lofty trees. The slope of the inner declivity was 60°. At the foot of this is an uneven plane, covered with earth and loose cinders or scoria. Upon this grow forest trees, many of which were more than one hundred feet in height, beneath which is a dense growth of shrubbery. It was remarked, that although it had rained constantly for several days before this crater was visited, no water was found within it. This is accounted for by the fact that many of the brooks and streams on the island are subterranean throughout their whole course, while others are partly so. The former gush up near the sea-shore in large springs or fountains, forming natural, or feeding artificial pools, in which the natives bathe. According to our observations, such pools are so numerous on the western shore of the island, as to occur on the average, at intervals of a mile. The rocks of this island are of the volcanic character that might be expected from the existence of so many craters. They are princi- pally composed of a variety of basaltic lava, in which are found augite, felspar, albite, and chrysolite. Extensive currents of lava are seen, and are particularly abundant on the southern side of the island. It appears as if these had flowed down towards the sea-shore in various directions, and that after their outer surface had cooled, the portion that remained lhquid within had run out, and left a sort of tunnel. Such tunnels are numerous, and form the subterranean courses of the streams. Some of these natural tunnels are remark- able: among them, one visited near Sanga will serve as the type of all. It was found to be a cavern nine hundred and fifty-eight feet in length, extending in a southeast direction, and to have an average width of about fifteen feet; its roof was about eight feet in height. At the termination of this cave, there was a pool of water five feet in depth, the temperature of which was observed to be 72°, while that of the air within the cavern was 76°6°, and that of the open air was 77-4°. These streams of lava are much more frequently seen on the southern than on the northern side of the island; they are also larger on the former of these sides, where they were in some places four miles in width. The path from Vivimanga to Sanga is called the Stone Road, UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITI. 103 formed in part of blocks of lava. ‘There are also in this neighbour- hood many caves in the streams of lava. The cave at Sanga is the largest of these, and to describe it will convey an idea of those of smaller dimensions. | The cave at Sanga was dedicated to the god “ Moso,” who was supposed to reside in it. The entrance was found to be closed by an artificial wall built across it, about three feet thick; it is four feet high, and six feet wide. ‘The sides, roof, and floor of this cavern are comparatively smooth, and are covered with stalagmites of a light yellowish colour, which are not calcareous. It had been reported that this cave was frequented by a peculiar kind of swallow, which never ventured into the light of day. Mr. Peale, who was one of the party that visited it, found swallows in abundance, which made a bat-like noise, or rather one having a resem- blance to the rattling of pebbles. So far, however, from their being a peculiar species, as they had been represented, they were the common species of the islands, and instead of shunning the light of day, they were continually passing in and out of the cavern, which was merely a place selected by them for breeding. On the ledges of the sides and roof their nests were found composed of pieces of moss glued together. The eggs were white, and of a large size in proportion to the bird, and no more than one was found in each nest. In traversing the island of Upolu, many deep gorges were seen, in which there were waterfalls. One of these cascades was measured, and found to be seven hundred and fifty feet in height, so that the whole of the water was dissipated in spray before it reached the bottom. These glens are wild in the extreme, and beautiful, from the great variety and peculiar character of the foliage with which they are clothed. The south side of Upolu, like that of Tahiti, is much more luxu- riant than the northern, which is owing to a like cause, namely, that it receives more moisture from the prevailing winds. The wild orange grows every where in great abundance, and in some places the road was literally strewed with the fruit, which here equals the cultivated variety in size. In the different jaunts across the island, many of the “ Devil’s” or unconverted towns were visited, where our parties were always treated with great hospitality. At the town of Suisinga the chief who entertained our party was a priest of the Gzmbdlet religion. This new faith has made some progress among these islands, and has the following singular origin : 104 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL A native of Savaii, by name Seeovedi, was taken from that island by a whale-ship, and did not return for several years. During his absence he visited several ports, where it would seem he obtained some notions of the forms and ceremonies of the Roman Catholic Church. Possessed of considerable natural shrewdness, he founded on this knowledge a plan to save himself from labour for the future, by collecting followers at whose expense he might be maintained. During his absence, and while on board the whale-ship, he had received, as is usual in such cases, instead of his native name, that of Joe Gimblet, and this cognomen is now firmly attached to the sect of which he was the founder. Having formed the plan of founding a sect, he did not scruple as to the means of carrying it into effect; for he boldly claimed a heavenly mission, professing to hold converse with God, and asserting that he possessed the power of working miracles, raising the dead, &c. He soon gained many proselytes, and had attained great conside- ration and authority, when, unfortunately for him, he was called upon to exert his pretended power of raising the dead, by restoring to life the favourite son of a powerful chief called Lelomiava, who had been murdered. Joe did not hesitate to undertake the accomplishment of this miracle. He in the first place directed a house to be built for the reception of the body, and when it was finished he required that it should be sup- plied with the best provisions. In conformity with this requisition, the choicest articles of food that could be obtained were regularly handed to Joe for the use of the defunct, upon whom he alone waited, while every other person except the chief and himself was excluded from the building. The food thus regularly supplied as regularly disappeared, and Joe assured the chief that his son had eaten it, and under this bountiful allowance would soon recover his strength, and walk forth. In this way time wore on, until the patience of the old chief began to show symptoms of being exhausted. ‘This somewhat alarmed Joe, but as he was a fellow of infinite resources, he contrived to evade inquiry and procrastinate, hoping, no doubt, that some lucky incident might turn up, by which he should be enabled to extricate himself from the dilemma. Unfortunately for him, however, after another month of anxious suspense, the old man’s pigs and taro fell short, notwithstanding the chief’s dependants had for a long time been restricted from using them. All of them were in fact much reduced by their compulsory fast, with the exception of Joe, whose rotundity UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 105 of form seemed to indicate that he at least ran no risk of starvation. Whether it were owing to the suspicions which his jolly appearance excited, or that he began to entertain doubts of Joe’s supernatural powers, is not known; but one day old Lelomiava determined to, satisfy himself of the progress making in the restoration of his son. With this design he entered the house, and was shocked with the sight of his son’s body in a state of loathsome putridity. He imme- diately summoned Joe, and informed him that it was time that the promised miracle should be accomplished, adding, that it must be done by the morrow’s dawn. Joe immediately redoubled his exer- tions, and prayed hastily to all the saints of his calendar. He, however, knew full well what would be his fate if he remained to encounter on the morrow the anger of the savage chief. He therefore effected his escape during the night, and made his way to his native island. ‘There he remained for some time incog., but now ventures to appear openly, practising his impositions boldly, and is the worst antagonist the missionaries have to deal with. This story was related by the old chief himself, who, instead of finding his son restored to life, was compelled to bury his body, which he did, with the exception of the head. This he put in a box, and suspended beneath the peak of the roof of his house, where it remains, a witness of his credulity and of the gross imposition that was practised upon him. While the party remained at Siusinga, a sick native was brought from the coast to a neighbouring house, and their host, the Gimblet priest, was called upon to pray for him. This afforded them an opportunity that might not otherwise have occurred, of learning some facts in relation to the ceremonies of this sect. On this occasion, the priest approached the house where the sick man lay, and when upon the stone platform in front of it, he drew forth a book from the folds of tapa in which it had been carefully enveloped. He then called upon Jehovah, returning thanks for the many blessings which had been conferred on his people, and asked for a continuance of the same, invoking the name of Jesus. He ended by inquiring the Divine pleasure concerning the sick man, and begging mercy for him. The nature of the book could not be distinctly seen, as it was again carefully enclosed in the tapa as soon as the ceremony was over; but so far as it was visible, it bore an unquestionable resemblance to a blank note-book ! VOL. II. 27 106 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL The proselytes of this sect, in case of sickness, confess their sins to one another, and have a number of fast-days, which are rigidly kept. Their Sabbath occurs only once a month, and is celebrated by the firmg of guns and the puerile mummery in which their worship consists. In pursuance of the resolution I had adopted, Captain Hudson set out on the 30th of October, with the boats of his ship, for the purpose of attempting the capture of Opotuno. This noted chief of the neigh- bouring island of Sava, had, as has been stated, committed several murders and other outrages. Among other acts, he had taken possession of two boats, sent on shore by the whale-ship William Penn, Captain Swain, of Nantucket, killing the chief mate, and the two boat-steerers. The third officer of the vessel was also wounded and left for dead upon the beach; he was however, picked up by some females, who removed him to a hut, where, through their kind atten- tions, he recovered. He did not, however, rejoin his ship, but re- mained for some time on the island. The most surprising part of the history of this transaction is, that Captain ‘Toby, of the ship Swift, of New Bedford, afterwards pur- chased these boats from Opotuno, although he knew that chief had obtained them by murdering this captain’s own countrymen. Captain Hudson fell in with the Flying-Fish, on his way to Savau, and took her with him, to aid in carrying on the stratagem by which the watchfulness and suspicions of the wary chief were to be lulled to rest. On their arrival off the part of the island where Opotuno usually resides, they made for the shore under pretence of surveying, and reached the village of Setipetea, which adjoms that where he dwells. We afterwards learned that no sooner had the boats got within the reef, than he prepared for his flight to the mountains. The news of the capture of Tuvai, and the reappearance of boats from a vessel (the Peacock) which had passed about ten days before, served to put him on the alert. He had, however, become so daring that he did not at once fly, but awaited more decided indications of hostility, and when Captain Hudson, accompanied by only two men, passed through his village, having left his boats only a mile distant, he entertained the intention of shooting him. He had actually cocked his gun for this purpose, when one of his followers advised him not to fire, as he would bring great trouble on the island if he shot a chief. When the boats’ crews afterwards entered Opotuno’s village, the UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL 107 inhabitants showed much alarm, but the chief was missing. It was therefore considered advisable to make no hostile demonstrations ; as no good purpose could have been effected by following him to the mountains, where it would have been impossible to apprehend, him. $ The boats therefore returned, and although without succeeding in the main object of the expedition, something was gained in reviving his apprehensions of being captured. His village was not destroyed, because to do so would have been no injury to him, but only distress- ing to its poor inhabitants. He would have laughed at the idea of his being punished by the burning of their habitations, as it is said he did so when an attempt was made during a previous cruise of the Vincennes by her commander, who visited his village, and burned two or three of his houses. The impunity he has hitherto enjoyed has served to render him audacious, and it is not long since he put to death an American seaman, who had been left sick in his charge. Opotuno is detested by his brother chiefs, not only for his aggres- sions upon foreigners, but on his countrymen also. Only a short time before our arrival, he seduced and carried off the wife of Vavasa. This act was considered so outrageous, and was so deeply resented, that we were informed a war was only prevented by the near relationship of these two chiefs. The Samoans regard with horror the idea of those connected by ties of consanguinity, fighting against each other. Opotuno is not only related to Vavasa, but is the adopted son of old Pea of Manono, a connexion which was not without its effect in averting hostilities. On the 4th of November, a fono was held, according to the appointment made with Malietoa, in the fale-tele of Apia. All the officers who could be spared from the ships were ordered to attend. Old Pea, the chief of Apia, seemed to be the master of ceremonies on the occasion. Clean mats were spread for the chiefs, and chairs and benches borrowed from the missionaries’ houses were placed for us, opposite to them. All the highest chiefs of the “ Malo” party were present, except Pea of Manono, and two minor chiefs of Sava. Malietoa presided. His whole demeanour was dignified, composed, and thoughtful. His personal appearance has already been spoken of, and the form of his head, his white hair, and digni- fied bearing, again reminded us of General Jackson. He is slender 108 UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL and tall, although somewhat bent by age. It was to be regretted that his dress was ill chosen, and rather detracted from the respect he would have inspired had he appeared in his native garb; he wore pantaloons, a round jacket, and a pink and white striped cotton shirt. Tooa, the nephew of Malietoa, who acted as spokesman, and whose countenance betokened the interest he felt in the business, attracted attention in the second degree. ‘Then came Mole, the son of Malie- toa, Maletau, their general, the most renowned leader in the war of Aana, and Tai-ma-le-lagi, Malietoa’s brother. ‘There were also pre- sent a number of chiefs of less distinction, among whom was old Pea of Apia; although he was compelled to take his place, yet he did not fail to be conspicuous, not merely by his personal appearance, but by his officiousness. The proceedings were conducted with great ceremony, but there was a marked difference between this fono, and the solemnity of our Indian councils. The Samoan assembly appeared more quiescent, the proceedings exhibited more refinement, and the customs partook of an Asiatic character. In all such meetings a rigid order of precedence, that seems well understood by every one, is established; all conversation is carried on in a whisper; no one is seen standing in the presence of a superior, and sitting with outstretched legs is considered indecorous. Articles were never passed over a person, and no native ever ventured to come in contact with a chief. The background on the side of the natives was filled up with inhabitants from different parts of the island. On the opposite side of the building, the officers of the squadron and the missionaries formed a numerous group. Among the latter, was our friend Mr. Williams and his son, whom I had appointed to act as consul until the pleasure of the government of the United States was known, and whom it was intended to present in this capacity to the meeting, in order that he might be recognised formally by the chiefs. Messrs. Heath, Mills, and Wilson were also present; and Mr. Heath, who was believed to be best acquainted with the Samoan language, was kind enough to officiate as our interpreter. The object I had in view, in requesting the fono to be called, was to procure the formal enactment of laws and regulations which might secure to our whale-ships a certainty of protection and security, and at the same time to prevent 1mpositions being practised by them upon UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL 109 the native government, of which, as has been stated, complaint had been made. ‘To the breach of these laws, it was intended that the penalty of a fine should be attached, in order to secure obedience to them. The meeting being organized, I in the first place presented Mr. John Williams, as the consul of the United States, whom the chiefs recognised as such with great willingness and satisfaction. We then entered upon the discussion of the proposed regulations, which were adopted in a form which promises to be mutually beneficial, being highly advantageous to them, and at the same time insuring a certainty of security to American vessels that may visit the island they could not before enjoy.* One of the articles referred to the redress of injuries committed by the natives, and provided for the punishment of those who had been culty of crime, by giving them up. Wishing to rid these islands of a pest both to natives and foreigners, I now, as authorized by the spirit of this article, made a demand for the murderer, Opotuno, and stated that a compliance with this would settle all disputes between us. This demand produced a great sensation among the chiefs, and much excitement prevailed in the meeting. Malietoa, in reply to it, expressed himself strongly in detestation of the character of Opotuno, and stated that his capture by us would give him satisfaction, but argued that the regulations now enacted could not apply to his past misdeeds, and that he would only come within its operation should he be again guilty of like crimes. He in short pleaded that the law could have no ez post facto bearing. He next argued, that the inevitable consequence of any attempt on their part to seize Opotuno, would be to involve the whole group in a civil war, for he was not only a powerful chief himself, but connected with others still more so; and that a civil war was that which he most desired to avoid. He however went on to say, that so far as he was concerned, no opposition would be made to any steps on our part to secure one whom they knew to be guilty of great outrages ; but he could not in any way assist. In conclusion, he stated that the islands had, until within the few years that had elapsed since he obtained the command, been the seat * A copy of these regulations will be found in Appendix IX. VOL. Il. 28 110 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL of continual wars; that they were now aware of the advantages of peace, and had a just sense of the benefits they im consequence enjoyed ; and declared that he should do all in his power to preserve the blessings of peace, and maintain the unwonted state of prosperity. For these blessings he ascribed high acknowledgments to the mis- slonaries, saying that he hoped the Samoan people would in due time profit by the lessons taught them, and adopt all the improvements of the Papalangis. Few persons have ever inspired me with more respect than this old chief, and his sentiments were delivered by Tooa in an impressive manner. It was not my object to drive them to extremities, or to press for an instant decision. I also wished to give them time to reflect upon and canvass the regulations just adopted, and perceived that they began to be fatigued with the length of the conference. I therefore proposed that before they gave me a final answer in relation to Opotuno, they should take time for consideration and reflection, for which purpose I suggested that the meeting should be adjourned until the next day, which was accordingly done. On the 5th November we again met, when the arguments urged the day before were a second time brought forward, and the necessity of their taking measures that should effectually prevent outrages upon the persons and depredations on the property of white men, strongly set before them. They met these arguments with complaints against the white men who had come to the islands or been left upon them, saying that many of them were bad fellows, and had caused much trouble. I at once told them that if they would bring these turbulent persons to me, I would take them away from the islands, and that the laws they had now assented to, were such as would secure their punishment for any future offences. In this state of the proceedings we were favoured with a set speech from the official orator of Malietoa, an old blind chief, who stood up supporting himself by leaning with both hands upon a long stick. In this attitude he poured forth such a torrent of words as few of us had ever before heard ; and if eloquence be composed of elocution and a ready flow of language, he was fully entitled to the praise of possessing it. As we learned from the translation of this speech, its object was to urge the necessity of gomg to war, in order to secure the murderer, UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL ati Opotuno, for the purpose of delivering him up. This, however, was intended only for effect; for these, as we well knew, were not the real sentiments entertained by Malietoa. This speech was made up of short and distinct sentences, was spoken in a loud voice, and contained many repetitions. However contrary this speech may have been to the cool determi- nation of Malietoa, it seemed to meet the popular feeling, and there is no saying what might have been the consequence, had not the missionaries contrived to check the outburst. It was now proposed, that the fono should receive and publish a document, offering a large reward for the seizure and delivery of Opotuno, dead or alive. This proposition was a new source of excitement, and old Malietoa ex- claimed with emphasis, “ Give me the paper—I will put it upon my house; where all the world shall see it.” A copy was then nailed on the pillars of the council-house, which Pea was made responsible for, and others were prepared and distri- buted to the several chiefs. The meeting was then dissolved, and every one present evinced the greatest satisfaction that the whole of the business before it had been concluded in so satisfactory a manner. The island of Upolu is divided into three districts, viz., Atua, Tua- Masanga, and Aana. Hach of these was formerly governed by a sepa- rate and independent chief, styled Tw. Atua occupies the eastern end of the island, which extends as far as the town of Lauli; Tua-Masanga is the middle division, and includes the towns of Siuma and Safata, on the southern shore; Aana lies west of this, and comprises the remainder of the island. The first of these districts is of the greatest extent, the second is at present the most powerful, and the third is the most fertile. The union of these districts under one general government, in which the island of Savaii is also included, is a late event. Previous to 1830, this island had suffered from the usurpation of a chief of Manono, called Tamafago, who was a great tyrant, but who had contrived to cause his person to be considered as sacred, and to impress on his countrymen the idea that it would be sacrilege to disobey, hurt, or even to touch him. After the conquest of a rival district in Savaii, he assumed the style of king of that island, “ O-le- Tupe-o-Savaii,’ a title which Malietoa now enjoys, but without deriving from it any power. Tamafago not only ruled at Savait with royal and divine attributes, 112 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL but obtained a complete ascendency over Upolu, where he compelled all to give up their property to him, and to yield the women of all classes to his desires. Finally, his tyranny and excesses exceeded the bounds of patience, and the people of Aana rose against him, conquered and put him to death. From this arose the war of Aana, which will be again spoken of; for the chiefs of the other islands considered themselves bound to avenge the death of Tamafago. The people of the other districts of Upolu were not united in the support of their neighbours of Aana, who had made themselves almost universally odious by their haughty bearing. The war was a bloody one, and resulted, after a continuance of two or three years, in the entire defeat of the people of Aana by those of Manono, who expelled them from their district, and forbade their return to it on pain of death. This fertile region remained entirely unoccupied until the arrival of the missionaries; but when the Christian influences of their preaching began to be felt, the decree that condemned Aana to solitude was annulled, and the few of its former inhabitants who had escaped slaughter, were permitted to return to their ancient homes. The island of Manono, whose inhabitants exerted such an influence in the closing scenes of the war of Aana, is situated within the sea- reef of Upolu. It contains eleven hundred inhabitants, and is the residence of the chief Pea, who must be distinguished from the inferior personage of the same name who resides at Apia. This island is covered with forests throughout its whole extent; its cir- cumference is about four miles; and it is the station of one of the English missionaries. In spite of its small extent and scanty population, Manono is identified with the political history of all the other islands of the group; for, during the reigns of the two Tamafagos, it held supremacy over them. ‘The reason of its acquiring and exercising this political supremacy, is principally to be ascribed to the possession by its inhabi- tants of the small island of Apolima, which they used as their “olo” or citadel. To this retreat, inaccessible except at a single point, the inhabitants of Manono were in the habit of retirmg when pressed by too powerful an enemy, and when his rage had spent itself, they thence returned to their home with undiminished numbers. This natural fortress hes between Manono and Savaii, and sound- UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL 113 ings extend to it both from the shores of Upolu and Savau. The coral reef attached to it is but small. Apolima, on the most cursory examination, is evidently the crater of an extinct voleano. Perpendicular cliffs rise from the sea around its whole circuit, except at a single point on its northern side. Here the lip of the crater is broken down, and admits the water of the sea into a small bay, which affords a safe harbour for boats. The entrance to this is so narrow as to admit no more than one boat at a time, and is dangerous whenever there is any surf. It may, therefore, be easily defended. ‘There is only one other point on the island where it is possible to effect a landing, namely, at a small height to the westward of the bay, and here it can only be done when the water is perfectly smooth. But an enemy landing here would have made no progress, for before the mterior can be reached from this point, the steep and precipitous rocks remain to be climbed. The highest point of Apolima is on its south side, where it is four hundred and seventy-two feet above the sea. The perpendicular cliffs which face the sea are of course bare of vegetation ; but with this exception the whole surface is covered with cocoa, bread-fruit, and other trees, or with plantations of taro, yams, &c. In the centre of the island is a village of about twenty houses, and the permanent population consists of no more than about seventy-five VOL. Il. 29 114 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL persons. ‘The people are evidently jealous of the maiden reputation of their natural fortress, and showed much concern when we visited it, which the women even manifested by shedding tears. It can be readily understocd from this description of Apolima, that whatever party held it would be able to maintain possession of it against great odds, and thence to take advantage of any weakness or want of watchfulness on the part of their enemies. While we were engaged at Tutuila and Upolu, the survey of the island of Savai was performed by Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, in the Porpoise. It has already been mentioned that this vessel had been detached for that purpose, and that Dr. Pickering, from the Vincennes, had gone in her. ‘The brig first touched at Sapapale, the residence of the Rev. Mr. Hardie, who gave them a cordial welcome, although much surprised at so unusual an arrival. Many of the natives collected to view the white men, of whom so many had never been seen together on the island. In their remarks, they, among other things, praised our people for their beauty. Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury were landed here, to remain upon the island while the brig was employed in surveying it; the former to examine its productions, the latter to observe the tides. Mr. Hardie kindly afforded them accommodations in a new house he had just been erecting. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, after landing Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury at Sapapale, proceeded around the island for the purpose of surveying it. He began with the examination of the large bay of Paluale, near the eastern point of the island. Here there iS a missionary station, under the superintendence of Mr. M’Donald, who had resided there for about six months, with his wife and chil- dren. ‘The natives are peaceable, but are described as inquisitive and rude. The village is prettily situated, and is approached through a boat-passage in the reef. The south side of the island was found rocky and iron-bound, with a heavy surf breaking on it. Towards the western end of the island, the rocks around the poimts were worn into cavities, and the sea rolling into them produced innumerable spouts of water. When the brig was abreast of the deep inlet of Salealua, a native missionary came off in a whale-boat. He tendered every possible civility, and was very desirous that a trade might be opened with the village of the same name. ‘This is situated at the head of the bay, upon a sandy beach, and has around it and upon the sea-shore a con- UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 115 siderable extent of level plain, filled with groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit. Upon examination, no shelter was found for vessels in this bay, and the urgency of the duty required that the brig should pass on w thout farther intercourse with the shore. Near the northwestern point of Savaii is the large and beautiful village of Felialupo, with a snug little cove for boats. This place is under the charge of a Tonga missionary. ‘The natives were friendly, and disposed to exchange their poultry and fruit, for tools, cloth, &c. The next inlet on the north side, was that of Asau. ‘This was supposed to be the only place where there was any probability of finding a harbour. But the hope of such discovery was frustrated, for there is only a small and shallow entrance through the reef, and within the reef the shore forms an extensive flat. Many canoes from this village visited the brig, and before they had taken leave a theft was discovered. A commotion immediately took place, and the native missionary at once gave himself up as a hostage, until the article (a whetstone) should be brought back. A canoe was then despatched to the chief, and in the course of an hour he came on board, bringing the article. Both the chief and the native mis- slonary expressed great mortification that such an occurrence had taken place. Several small presents were made to them, and they returned to the shore highly pleased. Proceeding on the survey, the brig arrived off the north point of the island, and reached the bay of Mataatua, which was examined, and found to afford a good anchorage. ‘The brie was anchored here, and the harbour surveyed. This is the only harbour in the island where a vessel can anchor with safety, and here supplies of hogs, poultry, and vegetables, may be had in abundance; wood and water are also easily obtained, the latter from copious springs near the beach. A great difference in form, physiognomy, and manners, from those of the adjacent villages, was observed here, as well as a change in the character of many articles of manufacture. he war-clubs, and spears, were of uncommon form, and neatly made. This bay is surrounded by a white coral beach. The natives appeared harmless, but manifested great curiosity. ‘The women are more gracefully formed than at the other islands. The native missionaries appeared to exercise much influence over them, having put a stop to many of their former evil practices. On the 24th, the brig again arrived off Sapapale, after an absence of 116 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL nine days. Here they were joined by Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury, and found the o'd chief Va etoa and his son Mole, who were extremely courteous. On the former being presented with some articles, he remarked, that ‘our property was very gocd, but our good-will better.” Dr. Pickering engaged natives to accompany him into the interior, and to visit the Mu or burnt district. Preparations for the journey were made in advance, and among other things it was stipulated, that there should be only two meals a day: one early in the morning, and another in the evening. ‘The first day, however, was to form an exception. Mr. Hardie accompanied the party for a few miles, and they soon after their departure met a native who was styled “the Lord of the Forest.” The party were desirous that this man should accompany them, for his appearance promised more than that of the others, and it seemed it was necessary to obtain his permission before they could enter the forest. In times of scarcity, his domains become of great value, in consequence of the quantity of wild yams they yield. This person agreed to accompany them, and they proceeded along a good path through cultivated grounds of Taro, Dracena, &c. Mr. Hardie, before leaving the party, endeavoured to make the natives understand the nature of Dr. Pickering’s errand; the latter was unable to make himself understood by them. ‘They had not proceeded far before they came to an uninhabited house, where the natives stopped for the pur- pose of preparing dinner, the cooking of which occupied three hours! The day was in consequence well advanced before they again started, and at about 4 p. Mm. they reached an open shed, about two miles from the last stopping-place, where the natives concluded to halt for the night. ‘The occupants, who consisted of two elderly women and a young man, were dispossessed, and the shed was enclosed by hanging up leaves of the Heliconia, which resemble those of the banana. They then prepared’ some excellent cocoa-nut pudding, and heated some cocoa-nut milk in the shells. This beverage is usually taken by them every morning and evening; the natives all saying grace before their meal, and prayers before they went to rest. It was late the next morning before Dr. Pickering could get the party in motion, and pursuing their route, they soon overtook the Lord of the Forest, who had preceded them, and was employed in cutting a path through the woods, although that already made might have been easily passed through. No inducement could make them change UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITLI WG their purpose, and they continued to work at their turnpike, lopping off large branches, beating down ferns, &c. After some time, they reached a rising ground, which they found to be on one side of a crater, about a thousand feet above the sea, and seven miles inland. Dr. Pickering now concluded that it was a hopeless task to attempt to penetrate into the interior with such guides, and determined to return, which he accordingly did. He found the rest of his party a mile in advance of their previous encampment, where they had built for themselves a fine house, and each man had collected two large baskets of yams for provisions. ‘This was their stopping-place for the night, and among other cares for the Doctor’s comfort, they con- structed for him a native pillow, formed of a piece of bamboo, with legs lashed to it about three inches high. The natives were in high spirits during the evening, talking and laughing immoderately. They succeeded in getting off by nine o'clock the next day, and reached the coast about noon. During the stay of Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury on this island, they were objects of great curiosity; and whenever they walked out they were followed, not only by boys, but grown men, who did not, however, offer to molest them in any way. When they passed through the villages, all the inhabitants, not excepting the scholars from the schools, came out to look at them. ‘The latter, however, did not abandon their books, but retained them in their hands; for all, whether young, middle-aged, or old, are anxious to learn, and their perseverance, as in other parts of the group, is astonishing. Dr. Pickering here witnessed the taking of fish in a different mode from that practised on the other islands. Application was made to the chief, and through his influence a meeting of the head men of the town was called, and a fishing expedition agreed upon. The net, if it could be so called, was prepared, and in the course of two days every thing was ready. ‘The net was a kind of cheval-de-frise, made of the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, split and wound round a line, and was little less than half a mile in length. It was more formidable in appearance than in reality. This net was taken out at high water to the coral reef, in three pieces, then fastened together, and thus made to enclose a large extent of water. This space was gradually con- tracted by doubling up the net, which answered the same purpose as the drawing of a seine. The fish did not attempt to pass it, and were thus driven towards a certain point, where a sort of sack of VOL. II. 30 1s UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAIL matting had been placed for them to enter. As the fish were gradually enclosed by the mat, and the tide fell, the scene became an animated one. Men, women, and boys, to the number of two or three hundred, were eagerly engaged in picking up or catching the stragglers as they were seen leaping up; the whole area seemed alive with fish, jumping in every direction, some over the heads of the natives, and thus escaping, while others leaped into hand-nets. About a canoe-load was caught, comprising thirty different kinds of fish, some of which were six or eight pounds in weight, but the majority were smaller. The haul was considered an unsuccessful one, which was attributed to some misunderstanding and mismanagement among the natives, by which a large stone fell on the net, and allowed many of the fish to escape. Savaii is the most western island of the Samoan Group, and is also the largest, being forty miles in length and twenty in breadth. It is not, however, as populous, or as important, as several of the others. It differs from any of the others in its appearance, for its shore is low, and the ascent thence to the centre is gradual, except where the cones of a few extinct craters are seen. In the middle of the island a peak rises, which is almost continually enveloped in clouds, and is the highest land in the group. On account of these clouds, angles could not be taken for determining its height accurately, but it certainly exceeds four thousand feet. The interior of the island is rarely entered, even by natives, and has never been penetrated by strangers. ‘The only settlements are upon the shore, along which the natives always journey, and there are no paths across it. Another marked difference between Savaii and the other large islands, is the want of any permanent streams, a circumstance which may be explained, notwithstanding the frequency of rai, by the porous nature of the rock (vesicular lava) of which it is chiefly composed. Water, however, gushes out near the shore in copious springs, and when heavy and continual rains have occurred, streams are formed in the ravines, but these soon disappear after the rains have ceased. The coral reef attached to this island is interrupted to the south and west, where the surf beats full upon the rocky shore. There are, in consequence, but few places where boats can land, and only one harbour for ships, that of Mataatua; even this is unsafe from November to February, when the northwesterly gales prevail. UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAII. 419 The soil is fertile, and was composed in every part of the island that was visited, of decomposed volcanic rock, and vegetable mould. The Porpoise, having taken Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury again on board, set sail for Tutuila, for the purpose of joining the, Vincennes, and beat to windward along the south side of Upolu. During this passage many of the crew became sick, which rendered it necessary to stop for a few days at Pago-pago, in order to recruit them. Here they all speedily recovered, except one man, named David Blodget, who died. ‘The disorder was attributed to the damp- ness of the vessel. The delay in the arrival of the Porpoise at Apia caused me to send the Flying-Fish to Tutuila, whence they both returned to Apia. Previous to sailing, at the pressing instance of the chiefs, I ordered the marines and small-arm men of the squadron, in all about one hundred and fifty, to be sent on shore, with their music, for exercise. They had been well drilled to act on shore should occasion require, and were provided for the occasion with blank cartridges. The natives from far and near were collected to witness the review, and few scenes that occurred during the voyage were as amusing as this. The old and young were equally delighted, and it was ludicrous to see them endeavouring to imitate the soldiers, in their marches and countermarches. ‘They were not satisfied unless the drummers were constantly beating, and were particularly delighted with the bass- drum. ‘The firing occasioned some alarm at first, but when they saw it did no harm, they became reconciled to it, although even to the last they would scamper off to a distance at each discharge. The review left an impression on their minds of the superiority of our arms that will not soon be forgotten. The men were embarked at sunset, and had many jokes to relate of the conduct of the natives, and particularly old Pea, who on this, as on other occasions, acted as master of the ceremonies. During our stay in this group, we experienced two slight shocks of earthquakes, their occurrence here is not unusual, but there is no account of any damage having been done. ‘Their motion is generally tremulous and horizontal; one, however, has been experienced of a wavy description. ‘They are said by the foreigners often to produce the sensation of sea-sickness. : On the 10th of November, the whole squadron was assembled in the harbour of Apia, after having been actively engaged since the 8th of October in examining the different islands, and making 120 UPOLU—MANONO-SAVAIL surveys of their coasts and harbours, &c. This work was all expe- ditiously and well done, with the exception of the south side of the island of Upolu, which was imperfect in some respects; it was con- e sequently re-surveyed in the following year, and the charts finished. Besides the surveys, full series of experiments were made in magnet- ism, and extensive collections obtained in natural history, botany, &c., the islands being traversed by parties in several directions for this purpose. For the results in these departments, the reader is referred to the Reports of the Naturalists; and to the Hydrographic Atlas, for the charts. _ SSS SSS SS > SSS SSSISES et iH, U Ue i i FAN, BASKET, NECKLACE, AND COMB. ~ CoE AC ea iaiphue ave CONTENTS. GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF THE SAMOAN GROUP —ITS HARBOURS—ITS TIDES AND CURRENTS—ITS CLIMATE —SIZE OF THE ISLANDS—SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF THE GROUP—ITS CULTIVATION—ITS QUADRUPEDS—ITS BIRDS—ITS REPTILES—ITS FISH—ITS PRODUCTS AVAILABLE FOR COMMERCE—LANGUAGE OF ITS NATIVES—THEIR DISEASES —THEIR GENERAL APPEARANCE — THEIR NATIONAL CHARACTER — LABOURS OF THE MISSIONARIES—NATIVE MISSIONARIES—SELECTION OF THEM FOR THE NEW HEBRIDES— POPULATION OF THE ISLANDS— RELIGION OF THE HEATHEN—THEIR IDEA OF THE CREATION—OF A FUTURE STATE—THEIR OMENS—THEIR SUPERSTITION—THEIR DANCES— THEIR MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS—THEIR AMUSEMENTS—PAPALANGI SHIP—THEIR BIRTHS —THEIR MARRAIGES AND COURTSHIP—THEIR ADOPTION OF CHILDREN—THEIR BURIALS —THEIR MOURNING —THEIR MANNERS AND APPEARANCE—THEIR DRESS —1MPROVE- MENTS IN THE ANCIENT DRESS—TATTOOING—THEIR MANUFACTURE OF TAPA AND MATS—SAMOAN CANOES—BOAT-SONG—HOUSES OF THE NATIVES—THEIR LIGHTS—THEIR FOOD—THEIR HABITS—THEIR MALANGAS—THEIR PUNISHMENTS FOR CRIMES—THEIR WARS—THEIR OLOS— THEIR PEACE-MAKING—CLASSES OF SAMOAN SOCIETY—ALLOT- MENT OF LANDS—MODE OF GOVERNMENT—DESCENT OF CHIEFTAINSHIP—CEREMONIES AT THE FONOS. CHHEAGRATE IR: We SAMOAN GROUP. 1839. Durine the time that the squadron remained in the Samoan Group, all the islands of which it is made up were visited ; not only were the examinations, spoken of in the two preceding chapters, made, but their shores were minutely surveyed by boats; the meteo- rological instruments were duly registered ; astronomic and magnetic observations made, and a full record of the tides kept. We have thus obtained a large amount of information, which will be more easily intelligible in a condensed form, together with a great number of facts in relation to the aboriginal population, which may be made more interesting when applied to give a general view of the habits, character, and state of civilization among the natives, than if dispersed in isolated remarks in the accounts of the separate tours in which it was obtained. The group lies between the latitudes of 13° 30’ and 14° 30’ S., and the longitudes of 168° and 173° W. ‘The islands, as has been seen, agree in the general character of being of volcanic structure, and having coral reefs; differing, however, in the modifications of these formations, which have been from time to time described. ‘The harbours are usually situated within the reefs, but Tutuila is an exception to this rule, by the possession of the deep land-locked basin of Pago-pago. ‘This is, of all the ports, the one best adapted for the refitting of vessels; but Apia, in Upolu, in the latitude of 13° 48’ 56-6” S., and longitude 171° 41’ 09” W., is not so difficult of egress, and in consequence of its proximity to the fertile district of Aana, the most convenient for vessels seeking only a temporary anchorage and refreshment. The approach to Pago-pago, and the other harbours of the Samoan 124 SAMOAN GROUP. Isles, is not difficult; and as the soundings extend in some places for a distance beyond the reefs, vessels may drop an anchor in case of necessity. The flood tide among these islands sets to the westward; beyond its influence, on the southern side of the islands, a current generally prevails to the eastward, while it runs westward on their northern side. Vessels, therefore, when beating to windward, would find it to their advantage to keep on the southern side of the group, where there is not only a favourable current, but where the winds would be found more regular, and calms less frequent. Tidal observations were made cotemporaneously at Tutuila, Upolu, and Savaii; these show a regular difference of one hour in the tidal wave between Tutuila, and Upolu; the tide at Savai appears from the record to have been more irregular than at the other islands, which may in part be attributed to the extent of the reef, but I also fear that there may have been a want of due attention to the observations. The climate of these islands may be termed variable, and there is much bad weather, particularly during the winter months, when long and heavy rains, attended at times with high winds and northerly gales, are frequent. Destructive hurricanes also occur, and of these one is still recollected which blew down the bread-fruit trees, and destroyed many of the houses. The air is more moist than that of the Society Islands, and the vegetation in consequence more luxuriant. ‘Thunder and lightning are often experienced, but during the summer months light winds and calms are the prevailing characters of the climate. Some of our gentlemen made the remark, that, to judge from the time at which the bread-fruit was gathered, there must be a great difference between the seasons of this island and Tahiti; for when we arrived at Tutuila, that product was ripe and in abundance, although when we left Tahiti, only a few days before, it was unripe and not to be had. The same remark was made in relation to the vi-apple (Spondias dulcis). But, by comparing the voyages of Cook and Wallis, it would appear that the time of the year at which the bread-fruit is in season at Tahiti is not constant, for both these navigators found it in perfection, although they visited that island in different months. If there be a difference between the time of the ripening of the bread- fruit in the Society Islands and this group, the greater moisture and higher mean temperature of the Samoan climate will account for it. SAMOAN GROUP. 125 The temperature of the air at Apia varied from 77:7° to 80:2°; that of the water from 81:25° to 83°75°. The mean height of the barometer in the group was 30-7128 in. The islands of the Samoan Group contain two thousand six hundred and fifty square miles, which are divided as follows, viz. : Savail 5 2 . é 5 5 : 00 Upolu 0 : . a : 0 . 560 Tutuila : 4 , * , 5 ; . 240 Manono 5 5 : . 5 P 6 6 9 Apolima. C ¢ : : - : 4 7 Manua ‘ 6 3 6 6 6 6 . 100 Oloosinga . : : - 9 2 9 . 24 Ofoo 5 6 O 5 ° ss 3 6 =o) The soil of all the islands is rich, and arises chiefly from the decomposition of volcanic rocks. At Tutuila, it was remarked that the vegetation was luxuriant, and the trees of large growth. At Upolu the forests seemed more sombre than those of Brazil, although the same kind of growth appeared to prevail. The trees do not branch out until near the top, which renders it difficult to obtain botanical specimens. ‘The trunks are covered, and even the summits of the trees sometimes overgrown, with the leaves of the scandent Flagellaria (Freycinetia), a climbing Piper, and other vines, as Hoyas, Convolvulus, &c. The lower part of the trunks are enveloped with ferns, of which there are many varieties, and with some species of Pothos, which give the whole ground a matted or woven appearance. The woods in the interior of the islands are very thick, and often composed of large and fine trees; among them are, tree-ferns, a species of banyan, pandanus, and several species of palms. Among other plants a species of Cerbera was observed, with beautiful clusters of large and odorous white flowers, which yielded a quantity of white viscous sap, that our botanist, Mr. Rich, thought might be manufac- tured into caoutchouc. On the whole, the species of trees are much more numerous than at Tahiti, and the vegetation in consequence richer and more varied. ‘The woods, however, are not enlivened by showy flowers, and the few of these that are seen are of a white or grayish hue, which is to be ascribed to their being but little exposed to the rays of the sun, in consequence of the umbrageous foliage. Many of the flowers seen on the ground were unknown to our botanist, as were several fruits. VOL. Il. 32 126 SAMOAN GROUP. Among the trees which have been named, that which struck us as most remarkable was the species of banyan (Ficus religiosa), called in these islands ohwa. Some of these were seen, whose pendent branches had taken root in the ground to the number of thousands, forming stems from an inch to two feet in diameter, uniting in the main trunk more than eighty feet above the ground, and supporting a vast system of horizontal branches, spreading like an umbrella over the tops of the other trees. For the sketch of one of these I am in- debted to Mr. Peale. OHWA TREE. The bread-fruit is the most abundant of all the trees, and grows here to a large size; the vi-apple, the cocoa-nut, and the wild orange, are also found in great numbers; and at Tutuila a large lime-tree was seen in full bearing, which was said to have been planted before the arrival of the missionaries. Among the most singular of the vegetable productions is the stinging tree, of which the natives are much afraid ; for if its leaves be touched, an eruption is produced, particularly if the skin be wet. Its leaf is cordate, but quite smooth. The arborescent ferns are not as numerous as at Tahiti, but grow toa larger size. ‘The palms gave a character of luxuriance to the country, from the variety of their foliage. Rattans ninety feet in length were seen running over the trees. Bamboos and the wild sugar-cane were very common; the latter is used in thatching houses: the wild ginger also abounds. Of the wild nutmeg (Myristica), two species were seen, which are small trees, and likely to be passed without notice, were it not for the peculiar manner in which branches grow out of the trunk, which is SAMOAN GROUP. 127 in whirls, at regular intervals, like the white pine (Pinus strobus) of our Northern States. It was remarked that the character of the vegetation approached more nearly to that of the East Indies than of the Society Islands, and the leafless acacias were the type of those we afterwards saw in New Holland; but there are some plants which appear peculiar to these islands. Many of the trees we have named, as well as other plants, are objects of cultivation ; but the ground cleared for this purpose does not extend far from the coasts, near which all the villages are situated. To clear the land, the bark is burnt off the trees, after which they are permitted to stand until they become dry, when they are cut down and used as fuel. The cultivated plants and trees are, bread-fruit (of which they have twenty varieties), cocoa-nut, ti (Dracena), bananas, taro, paper-mul- berry, tacca, from which arrow-root is made, and of which they have several sorts; sugar-cane, which is not made into sugar, but used only for thatching; coffee, ava (Piper mythisticum), sweet-potato, pime-apple (Anana), brought by the missionaries from the Society Islands; yams, the papaya, and tobacco in small quantities. The agave has not been introduced ; but in a few years lemons and sweet oranges will be produced in great quantities from trees which have recently been planted. To the cultivation of the tacca they pay little attention, yet the quality of the fecula (arrow-root) made from it is said to be superior. The missionaries are endeavouring to teach the natives the best mode of cultivating the sugar-cane and manufacturing it ; and it is said that a few persons have adopted the new methods. At present they find a substitute for sugar in the root of the ti plant, which is baked in ovens, and yields a large quantity of saccharine juice resembling molasses. Great attention is paid to the cultivation of the yam. ‘They are planted in October, and are ripe in February and March. The vines run up the trees, and when they die, the root is known to be ripe. To plant them, they are cut, like the potato, into pieces containing eyes, which are laid in heaps and covered up until the sprout appears. The pieces are then set out at distances of about three feet from each other. Hearing that there were some extensive savannas in Upolu, over- grown with the wild sugar-cane, I directed Assistant-Surgeon Whittle 128 SAMOAN GROUP. and Mr. Couthouy, to proceed to the east end of the island, where they were said to grow. ‘They, however, saw nothing of the kind, except a few small patches of that plant. There are no traces among these islands of any native quadruped, nor any other of the mammalia, except a species of bat (Pteropus ruficollis), which is very destructive to the bread-fruit. Swine have now become abundant, and the missionaries have introduced cattle, which are rapidly increasing, and will in a few years be in sufficient numbers for the supply of vessels.* Horses have also been brought to the islands. The first large quadruped ever seen by these islanders was a mule. With it they were much astonished, and it was considered so great a curiosity, that it was carried around the island of Upolu for the purpose of gratifying the natives with a sight of it. They gave ita name signifying—the hog that travels over the ground. Poultry of all descriptions is plentiful, and pigeons abound, which, however, are considered sacred, and not used as an article of food. Of the latter bird (Columba oceanica), between sixty and seventy specimens of different varieties were obtained, but it is remarkable that of all these, none were the same as those found in the Society Islands. To the Zoological Report I would refer for further informa- tion on this subject. ‘There are but few birds of game, and none of the hawk genus. A philomel was pointed out by the missionaries as the principal singing bird, and the woods of Tutuila were filled with warblers. The note of the philomel, although much praised, did not appear agreeable to me. The pigeon is commonly kept as a plaything, and particularly by the chiefs; for this purpose they are fastened to a stick by a thread about twelve feet in length. They are taught to fly from and return to the stick, and when well tutored to this feat, the possessor of the bird exhibits it with much pride and satisfaction. One of our officers unfortunately on one occasion shot a pigeon, which caused great com- motion, for the bird was a king-pigeon, and to kill it was thought as great a crime as taking the life of aman. ‘The people were not to be pacified until the interpreter told them that the officer belonged to “‘man-of-war,’’ which intelligence, together with a small present satisfied them, and the matter was settled. To justify their regard for them, we were told that when the * On Upolu there are now twenty head of cattle, and seven horses. SAMOAN GROUP. 129 inhabitants of Aana were driven away, about eight years since, by the people of Manono, the pigeons abandoned the district, but that upon their return to their homes, the pigeons again made their appearance in their former abodes. Snakes were found in Upolu, and sea-snakes are reported to have been seen off the islands. Fish are taken in the neighbouring waters, in great abundance and variety. Besides other modes of taking them, they are caught on the reefs by women, who place baskets near the holes where they are accustomed to take shelter. They are also speared by torchlight, and taken in deep water by the hook. Among the sea-fish, mullets are very numerous, and are frequently seen leaping from the water in immense shoals. One of the modes in which fish are caught by the Samoans, was witnessed at Samatau. About a dozen canoes formed themselves into a ring around what appeared to be a dark circular spot in the water, about six feet in diameter, and which was moving along with a slow and unequal motion. ‘This was a shoal of the small fish called lou, which is about two inches in length. The shoal being thus sur- rounded, the circle of canoes was gradually lessened, until the fish, finding themselves enclosed on all sides, ceased to move forward. At this moment the head fisher, who was seen standing up in the canoe with a net m his hand, threw it dexterously over the shoal, upon which all the other men dove at once from the boats, and remained for several seconds under the water, where they secured the sides of the net. On reappearing, all regained their canoes except four, who remained to take charge of the net, which with its prize they con- veyed to the chief. These islands furnish abundant supplies for the refreshment of vessels, but as yet there are few articles which can be rendered available in foreion commerce. ‘'Tortoise-shell, of which a little has at times been procured at Savaii, cocoa-nut oil, and arrow-root, are nearly all that can be procured in quantities beyond the immediate wants of the visiters. Caoutchouc, gum Arabic, castor beans, orris- root, ginger, and coffee, might however be easily added to the list of exports. In return for what they can furnish, the natives now look to objects of real utility; beads, jews-harps, &c., once so much in request, are now scarcely prized; and cotton cloth, writing-paper, and hardware, particularly needles and other small articles of utility, are the kinds of manufactured goods which are most sought after. VOL. II. 33 130 SAMOAN GROUP. The Samoan language is soft and smooth, and is the only one of the Polynesian dialects in which the sound of s is found. The letters that the missionaries have found necessary to adopt in order to write it, are only fourteen in number, viz.: AEF GIL MNOPSTUY. In attemptimg to sound the words of other languages, they use L in- stead of r, s for H, and p instead of B. The c has a nasal sound, as in ong. It has nearly the same construction as the Tahitian, nevertheless the Samoan is far from being understood by the natives of the Society Islands. The Samoans say that they never can acquire it—* their jaws are too stiff.’ The missionaries also have great difficulty in speaking it, and are lable to make many mistakes which appear absurd to the natives. We have seen that it possesses the sibilant sound of s, and every one of the words terminates with a vowel. A separate dialect is appropriate to the chiefs, all of whose actions, the parts of their bodies, &c., have different names from those of the common people. The Philological Report is referred to for further information upon this subject. Many of the Samoans reach the age of seventy or eighty years. There is, however, a great mortality among the young children, which is probably owing to their exposure to the weather. Those who survive, grow up robust and healthy. Among the diseases which afflict the adults, one of the most usual is a Spinal affection, which results in caries and produces humpback. This is no doubt owing to the peculiar manner in which the children are carried. Catarrhs and bronchial disorders, occasioned by the exposed life of the natives, are prevalent, and a white resident died of phthisis during our stay. The dysentery, as an epidemic, is unknown, but sporadic cases of it occur, occasioned by imprudence in diet. There is an eruptive complaint, called ilamea, which covers many of the children under the age of ten years with sores, and which seems more particularly to attack the face and head. ‘The mode in which it is treated is singular: the child is rubbed with the husks of the cocoa-nut, until all the scabs are removed; a soft preparation of the bread-fruit is then applied, after which they are washed. This operation is undergone every time they bathe, which is daily. When the bread-fruit is not in season, a decoction of the husk of the cocoa- nut is used in its place. The elephantiasis prevails to a great extent among men who are SAMOAN GROUP. 131 past the middle age ; and some of the cases are truly frightful. There are also many instances in which women are affected by it. It does not appear to cause the least degree of pam. Among the reasons that have been assigned for the frequency of this disease are, the habit of eating their food without salt, and the use of cocoa-nut water ; to which may be added exposure at night, and want of sufficient exercise. The latter cause, whether it be capable of producing this disease or not, unquestionably exists; for they are in the habit of sitting for hours with their legs bent under them, which must cause a stagnation of healthy circulation. Laziness, however, cannot be ascribed to them as a part of their national character, for they are disposed to exertion, and willing to be employed. When, therefore, they have received sufficient instruction, and civilization has taught them new wants, they will probably become an industrious and thriving people. Ophthalmia, which is supposed to arise from the reflection of the sun from the sandy beaches near which all their villages are built, is so prevalent, that, to speak within bounds, not less than a fifth part of the population is affected with it.* In most cases it was observed to begin on the inner corner of the eye, whence it extends gradually over the pupil, until the sight is completely lost. As the disease advances, the thickness of the film increases, and when it has covered the eye, that organ becomes enlarged and appears to project. From appearances it would not be difficult to remove the film, and thus cure the disorder; but the natives have not made any attempt of the kind. Several cases of total blindness arising from this disorder were seen. The venereal disease does not exist at Tutuila, and is hardly known in the other islands. This serves to prove how great a superiority this island possesses over Tahiti in the chastity of its females, who in general observe their marriage vow with strict fidelity. Fevers are rare, and those of a remittent and intermittent type are unknown; in fact, the geological formation of these islands is by no means favourable to the generation of the miasmata that cause them. No means of medical assistance are attached to the English mis- sion, and the missionaries, therefore, can do but little in alleviating the maladies of the natives. Even their slight knowledge of remedies * Tt is so common at Savaii, that at least one case of blindness, in one or both eyes, 1s to be seen in every family. 132 SAMOAN GROUP. affords some alleviation, and their practice is far preferable to that of the natives, who always abandon to their fate those who are very ill. Among the few curative means that the natives do employ is a sort of shampooing. ‘This is performed by rubbing the body and limbs with the hands, at first gently, and gradually more and more roughly. These manipulations are applied as a restorative after fatigue, and to alleviate pain. For the former purpose they are effectual, and often abate, if they do not remove, the latter. Among all the Polynesian islanders, the men of Samoa rank, in point of personal appearance, second only to the Tongese; and many specimens of manly beauty are to be seen among them. As much cannot be said of the women, who are rather ill-formed and stout. When very young, however, some of them are pretty, and their colour is light, being little darker than that of a brunette or South American Spaniard. The girls are lively, have a good expression of countenance, and, what is rare in Polynesia, have some degree of bashfulness. The average height of the men is five feet ten inches, and some of the chiefs whose limbs are well rounded, would be called fine-looking men in any part of the world. Their features are not in general prominent, but are well marked and distinct, and are all referable to a common type. The nose is short and wide at the base; the mouth large and well filled with white and strong teeth, with full and well- turned lips; the eyes black, and often large and bright; the forehead narrow and high; and the cheek-bones prominent. It was observed that some of them had the eye turned up at the outer corner like the Chinese. Of beard, they have but little, but their hair is strong, straight, and very black; instances, however, were observed, where it had been turned to a carroty red, by washing it with lime-water for the purpose of destroying vermin (Pediculus humanus). Little difference was perceived in the shape of the heads of the two sexes, for observing which there is a good opportunity among those who have embraced Christianity, who shave off their hair. The general form of the skull is broad and short, and is highest near the crown. When the islands were first visited, the natives were represented as ferocious and treacherous. This arose in a great degree from the bloody conflict they had with the boats of La Perouse’s squadron ; and the opinion was kept up by the just resentment they in some cases ’ SAMOAN GROUP. 133 manifested for wrongs committed on them by lawless visiters. The instance of Opotuno, however, shows that this idea of their charac- ter is not entirely without foundation. Viewed in a more favourable light, they are, as we found them, kind, good-humoured, intelligent, fond of amusements, desirous of pleasing, and very hospitable. Both sexes show great kindness and love for their children, and age is so much respected that only old men are admitted to council. As a shade on this picture, they are indolent, covetous, fickle, deceitful, and little reliance can be placed upon them. ‘To illustrate these features of their character: the first question asked when a chief receives a visiter 1s, ‘“ What present will you take?” for they consider it incumbent upon them to bestow some token of regard, and a neglect to offer it would be indecorous. This custom was always complied with, when any of our officers visited them, and although it was evident they did not wish to part with any thing valuable, their choicest possessions were exhibited as if for the choice of the stranger. On the refusal of their offered presents, great joy was always to be observed in their countenance and manner, showing that they rejoiced in an escape from loss, while they had at the same time performed the prescribed rites of hospitality. This risk being over, they were too happy to supply us with cocoa-nuts and fruits. In spite, however, of the apparent liberality with which these were furnished, they do it in expectation of a full return. In pursuance of this hospitality, it is the custom when a stranger passes through a village without showing an intention to stop, to follow him and offer food. ‘The Samoans are usually very inquisitive, and it was amusing to excite their curiosity. Among other things mentioned for the purpose was, that white men often wore false teeth and wigs. The latter practice in particular seemed strange to them, and they called it “‘thatching the head.” A terrestrial globe was also shown to some of them, whereon the position of their islands and their small relative importance was pointed out. This excited great sur- prise, for until within a few years they had no idea that there was any country except their own. If the chiefs are liberal in their tenders of presents to their visiters, they on the other hand do not hesitate to ask for whatever they see. They may, in fact, be styled sturdy beggars. One of the most persevering in his mendicancy, was no less a person than Vavasa, the proud and overbearing chief of Manono. They usually began VOL. I. 34 134 SAMOAN GROUP. with begging from the humblest individual, and ended with the highest; and when they had obtained all they could, would go over the side of the ship ridiculing our folly for giving so much. Old Pea, by way of excusing himself when charged with being a great beggar, said he did not keep any thing he got for himself; that it was the Samoan fashion always to ask for every thing he saw. It mattered not if his request was refused, he was as content as if he obtained what he desired, but he said he should have blamed himself if he had not asked. The beneficial effects of the labours of the missionaries are more evident among the Samoans, than at Tahiti. The spread of the gospel has not been opposed by evil habits of the same inveterate character, and the natives of this group have been more easily re- claimed from their vices than those of the Society Islands. The greatest obstacle to the success of the missionaries has arisen from the presence of a few abandoned white men, who attach themselves to the heathen chiefs. ‘Their opposition, although injurious to the mis- slonary cause, yields little benefit to themselves, for of every thing they acquire, the chief under whose protection they are, takes half; and although no opposition is ever made to their departure from the islands, they are not permitted to take any thing with them. The vices of these men excite the disgust of the more well-disposed of the natives, who often express their astonishment at their ignorance of sacred subjects, and ask if it be possible that such men can have been brought up in a civilized community. The first attempt to introduce Christianity is related to have occurred in the following manner. Some years before the arrival of the missionaries, a vessel was wrecked upon the island of Upolu, and her cargo seized upon by the natives, many of whom even to the present day, regret that they did not then understand what riches were thus placed at their disposal. ‘Their mode of treating the prize was farcical in the extreme: pipes were made out of candlesticks, clothing was thrown away as valueless, and many injured themselves with the fire-arms. ‘lhe crew were well treated, and fed for a long time, although the natives were greatly astonished at the quantities of pigs required for their support, and entertained fears lest they should breed a famine in the land. ‘The captain advised his crew to turn missionaries, and set them the example himself. He met with much success, and succeeded in building several churches, until upon the arrival of the English missionaries he was compelled to relinquish SAMOAN GROUP. 135 his assumed occupation. It is not probable that even the captain was deeply versed in religious knowledge, and very certain that the crew could not have been; but their success appears to have arisen from the ereat veneration with which white men were at first regarded by the Samoans. They looked upon them as a sort of spirit, whom it was impossible to hurt or to kill; and the ships first seen off the coast were considered as heavenly messengers, prognosticating some dread- ful calamity. The bad conduct of their nautical visiters has destroyed this reverence, and foreigners generally no longer meet the kind welcome they formerly received; this observation does not apply to the missionaries, who receive all the honour that is due to their good intention, of which the natives are fully aware. The Wesleyan missionaries, and those of the British Board, reached these islands about the same time, or the former were per- haps the first to arrive. ‘The influence of the Wesleyan tenets, and the number of their followers increased rapidly under the superin- tendence of the Rev. Mr. Turner. Difficulties, however, arose between the two parties of missionaries, which were finally adjusted between the two boards in London, and the Wesleyans abandoned this field for that of the Feejee Group. This arrangement was amicably made, and I heard of only one individual on either side, who showed an uncharitable spirit towards his fellow-labourers of the other party. In spite of the removal of the Wesleyans, there is still a large number of the natives who adhere to the tenets and forms taught them by Mr. ‘Turner, and still retain a strong attachment to him. The missionaries were from the very first taken under the protec- tion of the most powerful chiefs, and have never received either insult or injury from any of the natives. ‘They have established schools in many of the villages, but have found a difficulty in obtaining native teachers. A printing-press has also been established at Upolu, and rapid progress is making in the translation of the Scriptures, of which some portions are already published. Many publications have issued from this press: among them [ regretted to observe a small tract contain- ing a violent attack upon the Roman Catholics. The sight of this surprised me, as it contradicted the opinion I had formed, from my intercourse with the missionaries, of their liberality and freedom from intolerance. The sole object of the tract was to prepossess the minds of the natives against the missionaries of the Papal church in case they should visit these islands. This struck me as being at variance 136 SAMOAN GROUP. with the first principles of our religion, and I could not refrain from expressing an opinion that the tract was calculated to do much harm. The labours of the English missionaries have been much aided by native assistants, who have been both industrious and successful ; and among them, those of Raratonga have the merit of having led the way. ‘They have acted under the direction of Mr. Williams, and he was loud in praise of their exertions. I witnessed a most interesting meeting of these native missionaries, for the purpose of selecting nine from their number to accompany Mr. Williams to the New Hebrides, which has-perhaps left a more deep impression on my mind from the melancholy result of that attempted mission. Great anxiety was exhibited by the candidates; and I have never seen a more proper state of feeling, or listened to more correct sentiments than were expressed on this occasion. All appeared devoted to their calling, and some of them were quite eloquent. After the choice was announced, those upon whom it had fallen manifested a cheerful but not unbecoming triumph, while the re- jected candidates were evidently grieved and disappointed. The former were now invested with new apparel, which, although no more than a striped cotton shirt,* gave them an air of consequence among their brethren, which was amusing to us who could draw comparisons between this simple garment and prouder kinds of canonicals. Each of the resident missionaries now delivered a long harangue, which was replied to by one of the selected. ‘The subjects of these discourses were, on the one hand, advice in reference to the duties about to be entered upon, and on the other a recognition of the weight of the responsibility incurred by the successful candidates. Most, if not all, of those selected for the new mission were fine- looking men, and they were chosen out of many applicants, for their steady habits and strict moral conduct. The term of their engage- ment on the new duty was three years, after which they were to * This garment is the only remuneration that they receive during each year from the missionary funds, and with it they feel themselves well requited. I have to acknowledge the obligation under which I feel myself to the missionaries, both individually and collectively, for their kindness and attention. They did all in their power to further the objects of the Expedition, and to them the squadron is mainly indebted for a great part of the facilities we enjoyed of becoming acquainted with the manners, habits, and customs of the Samoans. SAMOAN GROUP. 137 return to their wives and children, who were not to accompany them. The extent and influence of the labours of the missionaries may be best understood by a comparison between the whole population of the islands, with the numbers of those who have embraced Chris- tianity, and attend the schools. The entire population of the group is estimated at 56,600, of whom 14,850 have embraced Christianity, and 12,300 attend the schools. These numbers are thus distributed : ISLANDS. POBULATIONS iesetiet eee PUPILS. CHRISTIANITY. Eastern Group. . . 2,000 150 | 150 dbo 6 6 5 6 6 8,000 2,200 1,900 Wincluaeree tei ce ee 25,000 8,000 6,200 Savatid eet! sti 20,000 4,000 3,700 WENCH 5 6 4 o 1,100 400 230 Apolimaee a seen 500 100 120 Total, 56,600 14,850 12,300 The whole number of foreion missionaries is eleven, of whom one resides in Tutuila, six in Upolu, three in Savaii, and one in Manono. The number of native teachers is one hundred and thirty-eight, of whom five are in the Eastern Group, thirty-one in Tutuila, fifty in Upolu, thirty-six in Savaii, twelve in Manono, and four in Apolima. Besides those counted as having actually embraced Christianity, it is said that two-thirds of the whole population belong to the Christian party. Of those who attend the schools, about ten thousand read, and this newly introduced habit has of course made a very great change in the habits of a majority of the people, but the number of heathen still left is sufficient to furnish an idea of their original manners and cus- toms, which will in a few years be either entirely lost, or so modified by the spread of the gospel as to change their character entirely. The rapidity with which this change is going on, rendered it desirable to VOL. Il. 35 138 SAMOAN GROUP. obtain as much information as possible in relation to the pristine manners of this people. As respects their ancient religion, we have obtained the following particulars of the heathens. They acknowledge one great god, whom they call Tagaloa-lagi, but pay less worship to him than to their war-gods, Tamafaiga, Sinleo, and Onafanua. ‘The first entices them to war, the second leads them to it, and the third is a female goddess, who encourages them to fight. Mafuie is their god of earthquakes, who was deemed to possess great power, but has, according to the Samoans, lost much of it. The way in which they say this occurred is as follows. One Talago, who possessed a charm capable of causing the earth to divide, coming to a well-known spot, cried, “ Rock, divide! I am Talago; come to work!” The earth separating at his command, he went down to cultivate his taro patch. His son, whose name was Tutu, became acquainted with the charm, and watching his father, saw him descend and the earth close after him. At the same spot, Titi said, “Rock, divide! I am Talago; come to work!” The rock did not open, but on repeating the words, and stamping his foot violently, the earth separated, and he descended. Being a young man, he made a great noise and bustle, notwithstanding the advice of his father to be quiet, lest Mafuie would hear him. ‘The son then asked, “Who is Mafuie, that I should be afraid of him?’ Observing smoke at a distance, he inquired the cause of it. ‘Talago said, “It is Mafuie heating his oven.” ‘Tiitii determined to go and see, notwithstanding all the persuasions of his father, and met Mafuie, who inquired who he was. ‘Are you a planter of taro, a builder, or a twister of ropes?” “T am a twister of ropes,” said Titi; “@ive me your arm, and IJ shall show you.” So taking the arm of Mafuie, he twisted it off in a moment. Such a practical illustration of his powers soon made Mafuie cry out, “ Na fia ola, na fia ola!’’—I desire to live, I desire to live! ‘Tutu then took pity upon him, and let him go. The natives, on feeling an earthquake, exclaim, “Thanks that Mafuie has but one arm! if he had two, he would shake the earth to pieces.” The god Salefu supports the earth. They have likewise Mesua, Faana, Tinitini, Lamamau, who are gods of lightning, rain, whirl- winds, &c. ‘These gods are said to reside on an island to the west- ward, from which quarter their bad weather usually comes. They had, likewise, many inferior gods, who watched on particular SAMOAN GROUP. 139 districts. These various gods owned certain animals, reptiles, fish, and birds. In some few districts inanimate objects were worshipped, thus: a branch of bamboo, with a bunch of cocoa-nut fibres tied on the top, was worshipped in Manono. They also had carved blocks | of wood and stone erected in memory of dead chiefs, which they worshipped. The account they give of the creation of their island is as follows: Tangaloa, their great god, who lives in the sky, sent down the bird Tuli (a kind of snipe), his daughter, to look what was below. She reported to her father that she saw nothing but sea. 'Tangaloa then rolled a stone from heaven, which became the island of Savaii, and another which produced Upolu, and the same for the others. This did not suit Tuli, who returned to ask for inhabitants. He gave her orders to plant the wild vines (fuefue), which after growing were ordered by him to be pulled up and thrown into heaps, from which worms were produced. Then it was desirable that they should become human. Spirits were accordingly sent to them by Tuli, and the worms became man and woman. Their notions of a future existence are quite vague. ‘They believe, however, in a happy future state, where every thing good is provided. Some say that it is on their own island, others on distant islands, and for the chiefs at the residence of the gods on Pulotu, an island to the westward. They also believe that the spirit goes there immediately after death; that in these places it never rains; that they eat and drink there without labour, and are waited upon by the most beau- tiful women, who are always young, or as a chief expressed it to one of our officers, ‘“‘ whose breasts never hang down.” The spirits, according to their belief, often come down to wander about at night around their former dwellings; some spirits are be- lieved to die, while others are immortal; some dwell in subterranean abodes, and are eaten by the gods. Some persons believe that after death they become “‘aitus,” or inferior gods. They believed in many omens, which were carefully watched. If the black stork, called matuu, flew before them on a war expedition, in the direction they were going, they deemed it betokened success; but if in any other direction, it was an ill omen. If adim moon, or very bright starlight, or comet, were observed, it always indicated the death of a chief; and a rainbow was a sign of war. The squeaking of rats was an unfortunate omen. Sneezing was oF 140 SAMOAN GROUP. also considered unlucky ; if any one of a party sneezed on a journey, their further progress was postponed. I was told that the Samoans have a great dread of being abroad in the dark, and that when obliged to pass about their villages by night, they use flambeaux made of the dried stalks of the cocoa-nut leaf to light them on their way. This fear is partly owing to superstition, which makes them fearful of encountering some spirit or aitu with which their imaginations people the groves, springs, rocks, trees, &c. They are in the habit of occasionally making a feast for the king’s aitu, when a number of pigs are prepared, and a quantity of taro, fruit, &c., is gathered. The portion for the aitu is placed near his supposed dwelling-place, and the dependants and others enjoy them- selves on the remainder. They were formerly in the habit of presenting their first fruits to the aitus and chiefs. ‘This custom still continues among the heathen, but the Christian party present theirs to the missionaries. ‘The ceremony usually takes place in January or February. In drinking ava, the first cup was always presented to the gods. There is an account of a large lizard which dwells on the south side of the island, and is worshipped as an aitu. The description given of it makes it two fathoms long and as large round as a cocoa-nut tree, with huge scales, and a mouth filled with sharp teeth. It is said to dwell in a stream near Safata, into which the natives frequently throw meat. Some of them declare that they have seen him, and that he has dwelt there upwards of fifty years. It is not remarkable, however, that they should have this tradition ; and this circumstance affords an additional proof that they have had frequent intercourse with the Tonga, or Friendly Islands, where a similar tradition is spoken of in Mariner’s Tonga Islands. Among their other superstitions is that of a malignant spirit that resides in the vicinity of Apolima, in the shape of an enormous eel, of from six to ten fathoms long, and large in proportion, which attacks canoes and drags them down. A story is told that is said to have happened only a few years ago. While two natives of Manono were swimming across the channel in the reef, they were drowned in the sight of many others ; immediately a large canoe was manned, and went in quest of them; the crew of this canoe encountered the monster, and wounded it. ‘The canoe AMOAN GROUP. 141 was upset, and although a few saved themselves by swimming to the shore, the greater part of them were destroyed. When asked if it was not a shark, (of which they have two kinds, the tanifa or great white shark, and the masi, or small blue one), they replied, it was a monstrous pasz, which is the name applied to the murcena or conger eel. Their dances and other amusements are in a great degree abolished, but they are still practised in the heathen villages, and even the Christian women may still be induced to exhibit the former, which they call seva. The mode of performing it differs from that of the Tahitians, but is like it lascivious, and neither of them would be called dances in our sense of the term. The dance is usually per- formed by young girls, who stand up before the audience throwing their arms, legs, feet, and hands, in numerous strange attitudes, which are any thing but graceful. The others who are present sing amusing words, in two or three parts, while a third or fourth part is kept up in a coarse grunt or guttural sound, in the bass clef. The words are comprised in short sentences, each of which finishes sud- denly with a staccato note, and a violent gesture. The music of one of the dances at Tutuila was as follows : bh = Rm RP! j ("eees|soalereelveet terse le | The females, unlike those of Tahiti, have not many musical voices among them, but in common with other uncivilized races, have a perfect knowledge of time. The men, on the contrary, produce round rich sounds, rather below tenor, but as wild as nature would have them to be. The dance of the girls at Upolu consisted entirely of motions of the body, and was so indelicate as to produce disgust. The chaunt which accompanied it was sung with a high voice, and three or four women were employed in beating time on the mats with short sticks, in which most of the spectators jomed with their hands. In all cases they kept time with the greatest accuracy. The Samoan drum is made of a part of a tree, hollowed out; they have also an instrument formed of a loose slat, fitted into a board, on which they beat time with two sticks. Their flute, if it may be so VOL. II. 36 —_, 142 SAMOAN GROUP. ~ called, is made of bamboo, as are also their pipes, which resemble those of Pan. The dances of the men are by no means indecorous. ‘Those who perform them vary in number from two to a dozen, and are divided into two parties. These parties alternately advance and retreat, which gives an appearance of animation. Clapping their hands, swinging them to and fro, or clasping them over their heads, they follow each other in a circle, leaping up and down, and turning suddenly around, keeping time to the music. ‘The dances continue a considerable time, and end with a sudden clap of the hands and a simultaneous shout. The music to which they danced in Upolu, was as follows po Voices. Joe f= GARE b Second Voices. oe ae — (| b- — steea as any The song is usually extemporaneous, relating to some recent occur- rence. ‘The following is a translation of one of them, obtained by Mr. Couthouy through one of the interpreters. The Papalangi has come to Samoa, The Papalangi has come to Vaiusu, Let us all go down to the spring. The Papalangi is fond of the Siva. Where is the pig? Where is the fattened fowl ? The Papalangi cannot join in the Siva. Kindle up a bright blaze! Where are the virgins? I am going to get some cocoa-nuts. Look at this Samoan, how finely he dances! These dances are usually performed in the fale-tele, where stran- SAMOAN GROUP. 143 gers are entertained. The inhabitants and their guests occupy different ends of the building, and alternately keep up the dancing and singing. Through the latter all the news is made known, occurrences related, inquiries made and answered. Many of the nights are spent in this way; and much of the day- time, in eating, bathing, and sleeping. Besides these dances, there are various games. One of these, called “lupe,” is played by two persons, who sit opposite each other. One of them presents his closed fist to his opponent, and then rapidly holds up one, two, three, or all the fingers and the thumb, striking the back of his hand on the mat at the same time. If his opponent fails of instantly holding up a like number of fingers, he loses a point, and ten points finish the game. “TLafo litupa” is also played by two persons, who place about fifty beans of the Mimosa scandium before them; then taking up four at a time, they throw them up in the air, and catch them on the back of the hand; the player who catches a hundred soonest is the winner. Tuae-fua. This is played by five or six persons. It resembles the sport of the Chinese jugglers with iron balls. The first player some- times takes as many as eight oranges, throwing them successively into the air, and endeavours to keep the whole in motion at once. They are very dexterous at this: if they miss three times, the game is lost. Tui-muri affords the natives much amusement. Any number of persons may play at it. ‘They seat themselves in a circle, and divide into two parties. An orange is suspended from above, about two feet from the ground, and each person is supplied with a small sharp- pointed stick. The orange is swung round, and as it passes, each one endeavours to pierce it, some with great eagerness, others quite calmly, and others again with a wary coolness, all of which affords much amusement to the bystanders. The party wins who first succeeds in fairly hitting the orange fifty times. It is played for mats, trinkets, &c., but more generally for a baked pig, which is eaten when the play is over. Litia. This is a general sport, sometimes whole villages playing against each other; it is in fact an exercise in spear-throwing. ‘Two parties furnish themselves with light sticks of the Hibiscus tiliaceus, about eight or ten feet long and as thick asa finger. The bark is stripped off, which makes them very light. The two parties arrange 144 SAMOAN GROUP. themselves in a line, and strive to throw these as far as possible; the party which succeeds in throwing fifty the farthest wins the game. The usual distance to which they are thrown is about forty yards, and one would conceive it almost impossible for them to be thrown so far. A grand feast usually terminates the sport, which the losing party pays for. “Lafe,” is a game confined to the chiefs, who play it for pastime. Four persons sit at the corners of a mat, ten or twelve feet long, in whose centre is placed another of ten inches square; the persons at opposite corners are partners ; each party is provided with five circular pieces of cocoa-nut shells, from two inches in diameter to half a cocoa- nut. The first player lays his smallest piece on the little mat, and his opponent tries to knock it off, and leave his own in its place. Each in his turn endeavours to knock their opponent’s pieces off. The party which first succeeds in knocking its opponent’s pieces off one hundred times, wins the game. The pieces of cocoa-nut are finely polished and carved with a variety of devices. Sham club-fights and wrestling-matches are common, and fre- quently end in broken heads, limbs, and teeth knocked out. ‘An odd amusement of the natives was seen in the forest, in one of the clearings near one of the heathen villages, and at a short distance from Apia, (the vignette gives a good idea of it.) A fine large tree SAMOAN GROUP. 145 had been lopt of its branches (except at the very top), for a mast; around this a framework of timber, after the model of a vessel, was constructed ; all the timbers were carefully fastened together with sinnet, and with the requisite curvature; from the bow a large and long piece of timber projected, and at the stern a rudder was con- trived, with its tiller; but instead of its ordinary movements as with us, it was intended to act vertically, in the way to which they are accustomed in managing or steering their large canoes with an oar; vines and creepers were used for the rigging; ballast had likewise been placed in the hold. This afforded them great amusement, and showed an ingenuity in the construction of this Papalangi ship, as they called it, which had cost them much time and labour. There is no ceremony at births, or indeed any inconvenience. The mother generally proceeds immediately to the spring, bathes and washes her infant, and at the same time her usual occupations are resumed. ‘The naming of the child frequently takes place some time before its birth, for sex makes no difference in the names, which are given indiscriminately to males and females. The mothers often suckle their children until they are six years old; and I was told of an instance where a woman gave nourishment to three children of different ages at once, the eldest removing the youngest sometimes by force from the mother’s breast. It is their practice to wash the children frequently in the fresh- water streams. When a native wishes to get a wife, the consent of the chief is first obtained. ‘Then he takes a basket of bread-fruit}.and offers it to the girl of his choice. His suit is considered as accepted if she partakes of it. He must then pay her parents a certain price for her, which varies with the station and ability of the parties. A chief’s daughter is valued high, viz., at half a dozen hatchets and as many fathoms of cloth. ; nde Another mode of courtship is to go to the house of the object of attachment or desire, and be entertained.- If the family show a friendly feeling towards the young man and eat with him, his addresses are favourably received. ‘The formal offer is made by a large present to the family of the female, which being accepted, the match is made, and if refused, the courtship is at an end. The parents expect their children to abide by their decision. The “Malo” party have been in the habit of taking wives from their VOL. II. 37 146 SAMOAN GROUP. conquered enemies when they thought proper. Ata marriage cere- mony a great feast is made, particularly if it be a chief’s. A man is at liberty to repudiate his wife and marry again on certain conditions, but the woman cannot leave her husband without his consent. Adultery was formerly punished with death, and is very seldom committed. Among single women, intercourse with a Samoan before marriage, is a reproach, but not with transient foreigners. It is a common practice for parents to make a present of their children to chiefs or others, who adopt the child as their own, and treat it ever after as such. After it is grown up, one-half of its earn- ings goes to its adopted parent. ‘This custom gives the chiefs many adopted children of both sexes, who continue to live with them, and are in all respects treated as their own; and spreads their connexions far and wide. In their burials at Upolu, they have but little ceremony. The body is enveloped in many folds of tapa, and deposited, as has already been described at Tutuila, with the Ti planted around. No utensils, arms, &c., are deposited with the bodies; for, according to their belief, they have these things provided for them in their Elysium. A feast is made for the attendants, consisting of pigs, taro, bread-fruit, &c.; presents are made by all the relatives to the family of the deceased, and if the family can afford it, a small canoe is procured for a coffin. After the body has lain in the grave some time, they take up the skull and place it in a box in their houses. The reason assigned for this is to prevent their enemies from possess- ing themselves of it, for it was a custom in their wars to violate the sanctity of the grave. We heard that a few of the bodies of chiefs had been preserved by oil and heat; and the missionaries informed me that they had seen the bodies of those who died thirty or forty years before, preserved in this manner. Their mode of showing their grief is to burn themselves to blisters, (forming indelible marks,) with little rolls of twisted tapa, which, on being lighted, soon produced a coal. ‘They also scratch their bodies. ‘lhe females are said (in token of affliction for deceased friends) to have pricked holes in the corpse, and sucked out the fluids. All these practices may be now said to be passing away, and are almost obliterated. There is already a very great difference not only in dress, but in appearance, between those who have adopted Christianity, and those SAMOAN GROUP. 147 who adhere to heathenism. The latter have a wild look, to which their long hair, tied in a bunch behind, adds not a little, and when going to war they let it hang down in wild confusion, which increases their savage appearance. DEVIL MAN. On the other hand, the Christians crop their hair short, a fashion which was introduced by the missionaries. The hair of the children is cropped close, except a lock on each side of the head. The manners of the people in the Christian and heathen villages are as different as their appearance. In the latter no schools are seen, nor any of the incipient marks of civilization. Their reception of strangers in the Christian villages is always kind and hospitable, although, as has been stated, a return is looked for. Among the heathen, the manner of reception cannot be counted upon with certainty, for they at one time welcome their visiters with cor- diality, and at another are rude, insolent, and anxious to obtain all the strangers possess. When in good humour, they entertain their guests with the lascivious dances we have described, performed by native girls. Their whole manner and conduct are so different from those of villages within a short distance of them, that the effect produced on the latter by the instruction of the missionaries, appears almost miraculous. In the heathen villages the dress of the Samoans is to be seen in its primitive simplicity. It is no more than the titi, which is a short apron and girdle of the leaves of the ti (Dracena), tied around the loms and fallmg down to the thighs. The women besmear them- selves with cocoa-nut oil mixed with turmeric, which gives them a shining yellow tint, that is considered as a beauty. On each breast a spot of reddish brown, of a singular shape, and of various sizes, from 148 SAMOAN GROUP. that of a dollar to that of a dessert-plate. They do not show the least sign of feminine bashfulness, while those of the Christian villages cover their bosoms, and exhibit as much modesty as those of any country. During the last ten years the dress of the natives has undergone much change ; the titi has been increased in length, and extends all round the body; it has a neat and pretty effect when first put on, but requires renewing often, as the leaves wilt in a few days; this garment is well adapted to the climate, being cool. and the necessity of frequent change insures cleanliness. The Wesleyan missionaries from the Friendly Islands have intro- duced the siapo of Tonga, which has now come into common use. It is soft, phable, and not glazed, and is principally used as a wrapper, after the manner of the pareu of the Tahiti Islanders. of things, that one or two favourable years will completely repay all former losses; and it is due to the perse- verance and industry of the inhabitants of New South Wales to say, that they have already, in spite of the difficulties they have had to encounter, made it one of the most flourishing colonies on the globe. What these difficulties are, may be better understood by quoting some remarks of Major Mitchell, the Surveyor-General, who has had sreater opportunities than any other person of examining the country, every accessible portion of which he has visited. “Sandstone prevails so much more than trap, limestone, or granite, as to cover six-sevenths of the whole surface comprised within the boundaries of nineteen counties, from Yass Plains in the south, to the Liverpool range in the north. Wherever this happens to be the surface, little besides barren sand is found in the place of soil. Deciduous vegetation scarcely exists there; no turf is found; for the trees and shrubs being very inflammable, conflagrations take place so frequently and extensively in the woods during summer, as to leave very litt e vegetable matter to turn to earth. “In the regions of sandstone, the territory is in short good for nothing, and is, besides, generally imaccessible, thus presenting a formidable obstruction to any communication between spots of a better description.” The information obtained from other sources does not, however, sustain so very unfavourable a picture; it may, indeed, be true, when applied to the labours of husbandry alone; but there is reason to believe, on the other hand, that the excellence of the great staple of the country, its wool, is in a great measure to be ascribed to the short and sweet pasturage which these very sandstone districts afford. These lands produce, except during the prevalence of excessive droughts, a nutritious herbage, and form a dry healthy soil, on which sheep thrive particularly well, although it is said that one hundred acres of this description, of average quality, will not support more than five or six head of cattle. In seasons of drought, the flocks and herds are driven into the interior. ‘The year of our visit (1839) was accounted a wet one, and VOL. Ii. 46 me -; 182 NEW SOUTH WALES. some parts of the sandstone district which produced good crops of grain,* in drier seasons would have been dry to barrenness. In such a climate it is not surprising that there are hardly any streams that merit the name of rivers. It is necessary to guard against being misled by the inspection of maps of the country, and forming from them the idea that it is well watered. Such an impression would be erroneous, and yet the maps are not inaccurate ; streams do at times exist in the places where they are laid down on the maps, but for the greater part of every year no more is to be seen than the beds or courses, in which, during the season of floods, or after long-continued rains, absolute torrents of water flow, but which will within the short space of a month again become a string of deep pools. Were it not for this peculiar provision of nature, the country for the greater part of the year would be without water, and, conse- quently, uninhabitable. The principal rivers which are found to the east of the Blue Moun- tains are, the Hunter, George, Shoalham, and Hawkesbury. None of these streams are navigable further than the tide flows in the estuaries, which sometimes extend twenty or thirty miles inland, for beyond them they are usually no more than twenty inches in depth. Each of these streams has numerous tributaries, which drain a large area of country, and during heavy rains the main branches are suddenly swelled, and cause the floods which have been spoken of. To the west of the mountains, the water-courses are of a very different character. The Darling, for stance, through a course of seven hundred miles, does not receive a single tributary, although it is said to drain an extent of sixty thousand square miles. It possesses the other character which has been mentioned, of being frequently reduced to a mere string of pools. ‘The Darling, Murrumbidgee, and Lachlan, unite about one hundred miles from the ocean, and their joint stream is known by the name of the Murray, which after passing through Lake Alexandria, enters the sea at Encounter Bay. The surface drained by these streams is about two hundred and fifty thousand square miles. Another remarkable occurrence observed in these western waters, is the disappearance of a river in swampy lands, where, as is sup- * In the diluvial flats along the rivers, the wheat crop is usually about twenty-five bushels to the acre. Forty to forty-five bushels have been obtained, but such crops are very unusual. NEW SOUTH WALES. 183 posed, it is swallowed up by the caverns in the limestone rocks. This is the case with the Macquarie, which has its source near Bathurst. According to all accounts, salt is very generally diffused throughout New South Wales, and even all Australia. It has been reported as being found in masses in the sandstone, but no specimens of it were obtained by the Expedition. Scarcely a well is dug in the interior which is not brackish ; and, according to Major Mitchell, Captain Sturt, Oxley, and others, many of the rivers are quite saline in parts of their course. The northern tributaries of the Hunter and Darling are instances of this. The lakes are also said to be saline, and in some instances sufi- ciently strong to afford a large and profitable yield of salt; but being very far in the interior, and without the means of transportation, they are of little value. Along the south coast of Australia, such lakes are described as existing near the sea, and may possibly prove of some value to that portion of New Holland. Lead and iron have been found in small quantities; the deposits of the former are all trifling. ‘Those of the latter afford too impure an ore, and not in sufficient abundance to be worked. The minerals stated to be found in Australia, specimens of which were procured for the Expedition, are, chalcedony, agates, jasper, quartz, augite, and stilbite, feldspar, arragonite, gypsum, chlorite, mica in granite; sulphur and alum, galena and plumbago, magnetic iron, iron pyrites, and basalt. Fossils appear to be confined to particular localities, but are by no means rare. Columns of basalt of great regularity are found on the coast of IHawarra, but the articulations are all plane. The water is much impregnated with alum and iron, and its use is avoided by the inhabitants. Deserts covered with saline plants are said to be frequently met with. Mitchell, in his travels in New South Wales, speaks of the different heights of the ranges of mountains in this country, some of them in the southern and some in the eastern portion, as being covered with snow, and rising four thousand five hundred feet above the sea. To the Blue Mountain range he ascribes a height of three thousand four hundred feet, composed entirely of sand; beyond this the granite or dividing range occurs, which is only two thousand two 184 NEW SOUTH WALES. hundred feet in height. ‘The Canobolus Mountains, further to the westward, are four thousand four hundred and sixty-one feet high, and of primitive rock; beyond these the extensive plains of the interior, the valley of Millewa or Murray River, seem again to be entirely composed of sedimentary rocks, similar to the sandstone of the coast. The climate of Australia may be considered generally as very dry ; the irregularity of the rains, and the nature of the soil, all prove that it is so; yet the aridity is not marked, as in other countries, by a general tendency in the plants to produce thorns, although the peculiarity of the vegetation makes the dryness apparent in other ways. From all accounts, New South Wales is subject to as great atmospheric vicissitudes, as the middle United States. For a series of years, droughts will occur, which in turn give place to years of successive floods, and these prevail to an extent that can hardly be credited, were it not that the account has been received from good authority. As a striking instance of it, Oxley, in his exploring journeys into the interior, in 1817, found the country every where overflowed, so as to prevent him from proceeding; while Mitchell, in 1835, in the same districts, was continually in danger of perish- ing from thirst. The latter states that he found unios (or fresh- water mussels) sticking in the banks of rivers and ponds above the level of the water; and also dead trees and saplings in similar situations. This alternate change must exert a great influence on the produc- tions of the soil; the rivers ceasing to flow, and their beds becoming as it were dry, with the exception of the pools heretofore spoken of, must likewise have an influence. The prevailing westerly winds sweep with force over the whole country, blighting all they touch. The effect of these hot winds is remarkable, for they will in a few hours entirely destroy the crops, by extracting all the moisture from the grain, even after it is formed, and almost ready for harvest; and the only portion that is left is that which has been sheltered by trees, hedges, or fences. They thus destroy the prospect of the husband- man when his crops are ready for the sickle. It is thought, and I should imagine with reason, that were the Blue Mountains a more lofty range, this would not be the case, as they would have a tendency to continue the supplies to the streams throughout the year, by the condensation of the vapour from the sea. NEW SOUTH WALES. 185 These hot winds come from the direction of the Blue Mountains, and, what seems remarkable, are not felt on the other side of the mountains, or in their immediate vicinity. Yet the extent between the coast and the mountains is not sufficient to produce these winds, being only forty-five miles; and if they proceed from the interior, they must pass over those mountains, an elevation in some places of three thousand four hundred feet. Their great destructiveness is undoubtedly caused by their capacity for moisture, although few observations have as yet (as far as | was able to obtain imformation) been made upon them, except in relation to the blight they occasion. It has been found that fields which have a line of woods on the side whence they blow, escape injury. ‘The harvest immediately on the line of the coast does not suffer so much, being exempted in part from their withering influence by the moisture that is imbibed from the sea. There is a portion of this country that is an exception to the general rule of aridity, namely, the district of Illawarra. ‘This forms a belt of from one to ten miles wide, and has the range of the Kangaroo Hills just behind it, of one thousand feet; these are suffi- ciently high at this distance from the coast to condense the moisture, and also to protect the district from the blighting effects of the blasts from the interior. One is entirely unprepared for the alleged facts in relation to this country ; for instance, Mitchell in his journey to the south and west, during the four winter months, witnessed no precipitation of moisture except frosts in the mornings, and the thermometer was often below the freezing point. Violent winds occur, which have obtained the name of brick-fielders. ‘They are nothing more than a kind of gust peculiar to the environs of Sydney, after a sultry day. During one of these gusts little or no rain falls, though the wind frequently ap- proaches a hurricane in force. These winds get their name from bringing the dust from the brick-fields, formerly in the suburbs of Sydney, but which are now almost entirely built over. The tempera- ture during the blow generally falls twenty or twenty-five degrees, in the space of as many minutes; the dust is very great, and the wind so strong, as to cause apprehension lest the houses should be unroofed, or the chimneys thrown down. Our standard barometer was carefully watched during the coming on of two of these custs, and found to fall 0-200 in.: the first time, and the second only 0-020 in.: but the temperature fell each time about ten degrees. They VOL. Il. 47 186 NEW SOUTH WALES. were not, however, true brick-fielders, or such as a resident would so denominate. Snow has been known to fall in Sydney, but so rarely, that we were told some of the inhabitants were doubtful as to its nature. On the mountains it is not uncommon, and in the winter season 1s always seen on those in the New England district, which, although three or four degrees to the northward of Sydney, enjoy a much cooler climate. Major Mitchell often found that the temperature exceeded 100° of Fahrenheit. ‘The heat was, of course, very oppressive, and more so on account of the little shade the native trees afford. The difference of temperature between the day and night is great, but upon this point I was able to get but little information; the meteorological registers that have been kept at Sydney, have omitted the night hours altogether. IT have been favoured since my return with the abstract returns of the meteorological registers during parts of the years 1840 and 741, kept at the South Head of Port Jackson, two hundred and fifty-four feet above the level of the sea. Being kept immediately at the sea- coast, this record does not furnish so satisfactory an account of - the climate, as if the place of observation had been farther in the interior. I have also those kept at Port Macquarie to the north, and at Port Philip to the south; the following are some of the results from them. During the winter months, June, July, August, and September, on the eastern coast, they have the winds from the south to the west quarter, blowimg strong and cold, not unlike our northeast winds, accompanied by rain. ‘The quantity of rain which fell in the winter of 1840 was.35-25 inches; in 1841, 45-00 inches. The temperature during this season is from 40° to 78°, mean temperature, 66°. During the summer months, October, November, December, January, and February, easterly winds prevail, and the temperature varies from 56° to 90°; the mean temperature being about 78°. On the south coast, as appears from the tables kept at Port Philip, the winds pursue a reversed order; for during the summer months they are found to prevail from the southward and westward, whilst in winter they come from the eastward. ‘The mean standing of the barometer seems to be higher at Port Philip than at Port Jackson and Port Mac- quarie; its range is within 0-5 inches, and at the two latter places it seldom reached 30-000 inches. During our stay at Sydney, the range NEW SOUTH WALES. 187 of the barometer was generally higher than this. The temperature of the winter months varies from 35° to 65°: the mean is about 47°; and that of the summer months from 50° to 98°, the mean being 68°. The above observations relative to the winds on the south and eastern coast, will serve to explain some of the difficulties that have resulted from vessels taking the southern route round New Holland, to proceed west. These, during some seasons of the year, have met constant head winds and storms. It would seem that the most feasible time to make the southern passage to the westward, is during the winter months. The probable cause of this difference is the immense vacuum which is formed on the vast plains in the interior of New Holland during the summer, that is supplied by these southerly winds. But it is not altogether certain that these winds prevail at any distance from the land. They were described to me rather as regular breezes, prevailing during the day, moderating towards night, and succeeded by light land-winds until the following morning. The intermediate months between the summer and winter, or those about the equinoxes, are attended with variable winds and uncertain weather, but from information I received, they do not appear to suffer here from very violent gales during these seasons. Severe gales are, however, experienced at these seasons at New Zealand, in the same latitude, of which I shall speak hereafter. Our own results for the time we stayed in Australia will be found under their appropriate head. At Sydney I found a great variety of opinions existing about the climate. During our stay the weather was unfavourable for all astronomical observations, and almost the whole time cloudy or ramy. It was amusing to find many of those to whom I had the pleasure of an introduction, apologizing for the badness of the weather. It brought forcibly to my recollection, the fault that Captain Basil Hall finds with the people of the United States, but was far from being annoying to me. I have but little doubt, that the climate is, generally speaking, a healthy one, and not unlike that of some parts of our own country. ‘The colony is subject to occasional epidemics, and from the best information I could procure, it is thought that the mortality is about one in forty- three ; this may be called a very small proportion, when one takes into consideration the great quantity of ardent spirits that is con- sumed. The general appearance of the vegetation of New South Wales presents many peculiarities. The character of its productions is 1&8 NEW SOUTH WALES. totally distinct from those of the other portions of the globe. The gum trees, Norfolk pines, and those of Moreton Bay, attract atten- tion from their scattered appearance, and peculiar foliage. All these have a dark and sombre hue. A remark made by one of our gentlemen is characteristic of the former, “that they were ghosts of trees.” ‘The leaves being set edgewise causes this appearance, and in consequence give little or no shade. This peculiar position of the leaf is more conspicuous in the Eucalypti than in other genera, for in them the leaves are all pendant, while the leaves in the other genera are usually upright, rigid, and somewhat as may be seen in the Acacias and other tribes. It was observed that both surfaces of the leaves were much alike, having as it were, two upper surfaces. Whether any physiological purpose has been assigned for such an arrangement I have not been informed. According to observations made by the gentlemen of the Expedi- tion, the great mass of the vegetation of Australia belongs to the natural orders of Myrtacee, Leguminose, Proteacee, Epacridee, and Composite. The most common genera are Eucalyptus and Acacia. Many trees of one of the species of the former genus were seen one hundred and twenty feet in height, and with a girth, about six feet from the ground, of eighteen feet. This species is called by the settlers black gum, and is much used for domestic purposes, particularly its bark, with which they cover their huts and houses. The dilated foliaceous acaclas are very numerous, and are objects of attraction from their gay and fragrant blossoms. ‘The trees which present the greatest variety of species, are those known as gum trees, viz.: blue gum, gray gum, flooded gum, iron bark, and strimgy bark. The leaves of these gum trees have a powerful aromatic flavour, and a taste approaching to camphor. ‘They are used in the colony for a variety of purposes, according to their quality. Thus, the blue gum, (Euca- lyptus piperita,) is employed for ship-building; the iron gum, (Eucalyptus resinifera,) for fencing; and the gray gum, black-butted gum, for boards and plank. The Norfolk Island pine, (Araucaria excelsa,) is used for cabinet- work; the swamp oak, (Casuarina torulosa,) for shingles and cabinet- work, as is the cedar (Cedrela australis,) which grows to a very large size; the turpentine wood, (Tristania arbicans,) for boat-build- ing; the pear tree, (Xylomelum pyriforme,) the apple, (Angophora 5? lanceolata,) the mountain-ash, sallow, sassafras, and several kinds of NEW SOUTH WALES. 189 ? wood which they called “Curagong,’ the trees were not seen. The grass tree (Xanthorrheea hastilis) did not equal our expecta- tions, which were probably too highly raised by the descriptions of those who had gone before us; yet when in flower it must be a con- spicuous object, and in all stages of growth suits well for the fore- ground of a picture. Among the most, singular of the productions of Australia are the wooden pears, as they are called. These have a close external resemblance to the fruit whose name they bear, but are ligneous within. Another of the fruits is a cherry whose stone is external, and would be similar to our fruit of that name were the kernel in its proper place. The pit adheres firmly to the pulp, which is of the size of a pistol-bullet, but the fruit shrinks when ripe to that of a buck- shot. ‘The pear grows on a low shrub, the cherry on a large bush. I have before remarked how different the “forest,” so called in New South Wales, is from what is understood by the term elsewhere. The want of close growth is not the only remarkable appearance, but the absence of all decayed foliage is also extraordinary. ‘The ground is clear of any fallen leaves, and every thing betokens that perennial verdure is here the order of things. ‘These two features combined, give the forests of Australia the air of a neatly-kept park. Annual plants, (if so they can be called,) abound in the forest, requiring, it is said, more than a single year to bring their seeds to maturity. There were instances we were told of crops of grain remaining three years in the ground. A few plants found in other parts of the world, are, it 1s well known, only brought into existence after a lapse of years, and others give repeated crops during the same year. ‘That these types, so rare in other countries, should be abundant in Aus- tralia, is not remarkable when it is considered that they are but instances of an almost complete diversity between the natural history of this country and that of other regions. The timber of the Australian trees is generally of greater specific gravity than water. The remark, that the leaves of the trees are wood, and their wood iron, is not Inappropriate to most of the plants of this country. It is not, however, to be inferred that all the plants are different from those of other countries; so far from this being the case, a considerable admixture of ordinary forms was met with. Among these were a great variety of grasses, some of which were before considered to be were also observed in use, but VOL. Il. 48 ae 190 NEW SOUTH WALES. peculiar to North America; many other forms decidedly North American were also met with, a circumstance which, from the difference of geographical position, distance, and climate, was not to be expected; but for these details I must refer to the Botanical Report. All seem to have been struck with the apparent monotony of the scenery, foliage, and flora, although in reality the latter presents great variety. ‘The general sentiment was, that they were fatigued by it, which is not a little surprising, as the Australian Flora rivals in number of species that of Brazil. This feeling may be accounted for by the overpowering impression that is made by the gum trees, whose foliage is of a dark sombre green. ‘There is also something in the general absence of underbrush; and the trees are so distant from one another that there is no need of roads, so that a carriage may drive any where. The trees are in general tall in proportion to their diameter, with an umbrella top, and have the appearance of being thinly clad in foliage. No woody vines are to be seen, nor any parasitic plants. In many places a stunted growth of detached shrubs, called in the colony “scrub,” exists, which might be termed one of their “ forests” in a dwarf shape. In the Hlawarra district a totally distinct state of things exists. Here is to be found all the luxuriance of the tropics—lofty palms, among them the Corypha australis, with tree-ferns of two or more varieties, different species of Ficus, a scandent Piper, and very many vines. The forest of this district is thick, and alive with animal life. This district 1s about fifty miles long, and forms a semicircular area about thirty miles in its greatest width. ‘The peculiarity of the situation of this district would tend to show what would have been the probable state of New Holland, or rather its eastern side, if the mountains were sufficiently high to intercept the moisture of the ocean, and prevent the access to it of the dry hot winds from the interior. Illawarra may be termed the granary of New South Wales; here the crops seldom if ever fail, and are very abundant. The flower-gardens at and in the neighbourhood of Sydney would do credit to any part of the world. Among the most conspicuous are the Botanic Garden and that of Mr. M’Leay. The latter particularly interested us. It is situated on Elizabeth Bay, beyond or within Wooloomoloo. The house, which displays much taste, is built of NEW SOUTH WALES. 191 sandstone, and is situated beneath a hill, and on a knoll about fifty feet above the water. In front of it is a lawn bounded by a parapet wall, and between this and the water are several acres of land very’ tastefully laid out as an arboretum and flower-garden. Copses of native trees have been judiciously left on the north and south sides of the grounds, and not only protect them from the injurious winds, but add greatly to their beauty. ‘The garden is intersected by many walks, leading to the best points of view. It contains many rare and fine specimens of plants from England, Mauritius, the Cape of Good Hope, the East Indies, and America. A splendid specimen of the Acrostichum grande, or Stag-horn, from Moreton Bay, was seen suspended from a tree. The Norfolk Island pine, and that from Moreton Bay, (the Arau- caria Cunninghamii,) thought by some to be as handsome a tree as the one from Norfolk Island, were also among the plantations. From the flower-garden a walk leads through a lattice-work bower, 192 NEW SOUTH WALES. covered with native Bignonias and Passion-flowers, into the kitchen and fruit-garden. ‘These we found well stocked with fruit and vege- tables of almost all Kuropean kinds, which seem to thrive particularly well here. ‘The kindness, attention, and hospitality, with which we were received and treated, will long be gratefully remembered. ‘To Mr. M’Leay, the Expedition is indebted for much aid, and through him our coilections were increased. ‘The English oak thrives well, and many fine specimens of it were seen. From the information I have received, very many of the Australian plauts succeed admirably in England. The soil of Sydney consists of black mould, mixed with a clean white sand. ‘The quantity of sand is such, as in the dry seasons to affect the vegetation. ‘This sand I understood is now exported to England at a great profit, beimg found a valuable article in the manufacture of plate glass. ‘This soil, however, is made to yield a plentiful supply of fruits and vegetables; and the display exhibited at the horticultural exhibition was highly creditable, not only for the perfection to which the productions had been brought, but for their great variety. The exhibition was held in the large market-house in George Street, which was tastefully decorated for the occasion with branches and festoons of flowers. In front of the door was an arch formed of beautiful flowers, with the motto “Advance, Australia,” surmounted by a crown, and the letters V. R. in yellow flowers. Behind this the band was stationed, which, on our entrance, struck up Yankee Doodle. ‘Tickets were sent to the consul for those be- longing to the squadron. ‘There were a great many South American plants in pots. A premium was received for 'Tropeolum penta- phyllum, Maurandya Barclayana, and for two species of Calceolaria. There were likewise Amaryllis belladonna and umbellata, Bouvardia triphylla, Cobeea scandens, and several Passifloras, and a variety of Hyacinths, Dahhas, Tuberoses, &c., all fine. The grapes exhibited were beautiful, and some of them in very large clusters. Nectarines, peaches, apples, pears, small oranges, shaddocks, pime-apples, chestnuts, and walnuts, were also in abun- dance. After viewing the fruit we examined the vegetables, which con- sisted of potatoes, carrots, turnips, very large pumpkins, cucumbers, cabbages of different kinds and very fine, particularly the curled Savoy and early York, tomatoes, celery, squashes, vegetable marrow, beets, capsicums, and beans. NEW SOUTH WALES. 193 After the vegetables came specimens of native wines, and a silver cup was given as a premium for the best. The white wine resembled hock in taste ; the red, claret. The climate is thought to be favourable to the production of the grape. The first wine made in the colony was by Mr. Blaxland, on his estate at Newington. The premiums were silver medals. A very handsome gold one was also exhibited, which was to be given the next year for the best crop of wheat. There was a large concourse of visiters, all seemingly much inte- rested in the exhibition, which was open from one o’clock until six. The proceeds of the exhibition of the following day were for the benefit of the poor. There are a variety of other fruits and vegetables grown near Sydney, which, being out of season, were not exhibited; but to show the great variety this climate produces, it is as well to mention them, viz.: English cherries, plums, raspberries, figs, water and musk- melons, filberts, citrons, lemons, strawberries, grenadillas, olives, and a species of cherimoyer; and for vegetables, asparagus, cauliflower, lettuce, radishes, spinach, broccoli, artichokes, egg-plant, mustard, and capers. They have many imported varieties of grapes. Sir John Jamison is now making experiments on his estate to effect their successful srowth, and manufacture wine. He has obtained cultivators both from Madeira and the Rhine, to superintend his vineyard and vin- tage. ‘The reports made yearly to the Agricultural Society, hold out well-founded hopes of success. Several good nurseries of fruit trees exist in the vicinity of Para- matta, and the Botanical Garden at Sydney also furnishes trees to the cultivators. The grains grown in the colony are, wheat, rye, barley, Indian corn, and oats. ‘The wheat yields from six to twenty-five bushels to the acre, and on some low ground as high as thirty-five bushels. Its weight per bushel is sixty-two pounds. ‘The crops of this grain are subject to great fluctuations, and the most promising appearance may in a single day be entirely destroyed. Tobacco has been cultivated, and it is thought will succeed; but the frequent frosts render it a very uncertain crop. Cotton has been attempted, but with little success. The value of pasturage, and its profitable yield in sheep-walks, will long be a bar to the extensive cultivation of any plants that require much labour in VOL. II. 49 194 NEW SOUTH WALKS. their production. Our horticulturist remarks, that cherries do not succeed well, being affected by the dry cutting winds which occur in the blossoming season. The orange, citron, and lemon trees present a scraggey and yellow appearance, and produce small and insipid fruit, in comparison with that of the tropics. Peaches thrive, and grow in large quantities, and of high flavour. Every farmer has his peach orchard; and the fruit is so plenty that they fatten their pigs on them. The natives of Australia are fast disappearing. ‘The entire abo- riginal population of Australia has been estimated as high as two hundred thousand; this estimate is founded on the supposition that the unexplored regions of the country do not differ materially from that part of it which is known, which cannot well be the case. Other estimates, and probably much nearer the truth, are given at from sixty to seventy-five thousand. The ravages of intoxication and disease, combined with their occa- sional warfare, will readily account for the rapid disappearance of the native population; and but afew more years will suffice for the now scanty population to become extinct. In 1835, the Surveyor- General, Mitchell, estimated that in about one-seventh of the whole colony, which he had examined, the natives did not exceed six thousand in number; they are in many parts most wretched-looking beings. and incorrigible beggars; the moment they see a stranger, he is fairly tormented to give something; a shilling or a six-pence contents many, and when laid out for rum, or bread, is shared by all present. The introduction of Huropean arts has caused but little improve- ment, while the vices which accompany them have been the bane of the native population, which has thus acquired a fondness for ardent spirits and tobacco. ‘The natives usually lead a wandering, vagabond life, hanging about the houses of the settlers, where they are well treated, and doing little jobs for a slight recompense in the above articles. Their habitations are mere temporary shelters, formed of boughs and bark piled up against the stump of a fallen tree, rather to shield them from the wind than for a regular habitation; the reason for this may be, that owing to superstitious scruples they never encamp in one spot three nights in succession. At Illawarra, their huts were made by setting two forked sticks upright, on which another was laid horizontally; on the latter, one end of pieces of bark, taken from the nearest gum tree, is laid, while the NEW SOUTH WALES. 195 other end rests upon the ground. A fire is built on the open side, which not only warms them, but keeps off the myriads of musquitoes | and other insects. As many as can enter such a hut, take shelter in it, lying upon the soft bark of the ti tree. NATIVE HUT, NEW SOUTH WALES. The natives of Australia differ from any other race of men, in features, complexion, habits, and language. ‘Their colour and fea- tures assimilate them to the African type; their long, black, silky hair has a resemblance to the Malays; in their language they approximate more nearly to our American Indians; while there is much in their physical traits, manners, and customs, to which no analogy can be traced in any other people. The natives are of middle height, perhaps a little above it; they are slender in make, with long arms and legs. From their wandering life, irregular habits, and bad food, they are extremely meagre; and as their thinness is accompanied by a considerable protuberance of the abdomen, it gives to their figure a distorted and singular appearance. The cast of the face is between the African and Malay; the forehead usually narrow and high; the eyes small, black, and deep-set; the nose much depressed at the upper part between the eyes, and widened at the base, which is done in infancy by the mother, the natural shape being of an aquiline form; the cheek-bones are high, the mouth large, and furnished with strong, well-set teeth; the chin frequently retreats; the neck is thin and short. Their colour usually approaches chocolate, a deep umber, or reddish black, varying much in shade; and individuals of pure blood are sometimes as light- coloured as mulattoes. ‘Their most striking distinction is their hair, which is like that of dark-haired Europeans, although more silky. It is fine, disposed to curl, and gives them a totally different appear- ance from the African, and also from the Malay, and American Indian. Most of them have thick beards and whiskers, and they are more hairy than the whites. ‘The proportions of two of them will 196 NEW SOUTH WALES: be found in the table of comparative proportions at the end of the fifth volume. r NATIVE OF AUSTRALIA. They are difficult to manage, taking offence easily when they are ill treated ; and if any one attempts to control, thwart, or restrain their wandering habits, they at once resort to the woods, and resume their primitive mode of life, subsisting upon fish, grubs, berries, and occa- sionally enjoying a feast of kangaroo or opossum-flesh. They eat the larve of all kinds of insects with great gusto. Those who reside upon the coast, fish with gigs, or spears, which are usually three- pronged; they have no fish-hooks of their own manufacture. When they feel that they have been injured by a white settler, they gratify their revenge by spearing his cattle ; and it is said upon good authority, that not a few of the whites, even of the better class, will, when they can do so with impunity, retaliate in the blood of these wretched natives; and it is to be regretted that they are not very scrupulous in distinguishing the guilty from the innocent. The natives of New South Wales are a proud, high-tempered race : each man is independent of his neighbour, owning no superior, and exacting no deference; they have not in their language any word signifying a chief or superior, nor to command or serve. Each individual is the source of his own comforts, and the artificer of his own household implements and weapons; and but for the love of companionship, he might live with his family apart and isolated from the rest, without sacrificing any advantages whatever. They have NEW SOUTH WALES. 197 an air of haughtiness and insolence arising from this independence, and nothing will induce them to acknowledge any human being as their superior, or to show any marks of respect. In illustration of this, Mr. Watson the missionary is the only white man to whose name they prefix “ Mr.,” and this he thinks is chiefly owing to the habit acquired when children under his authority. All others, of whatever rank, they address by their Christian or surname. ‘This does not proceed from ignorance on their part, as they are known to under- stand the distinctions of rank among the whites, and are continually witnessing the subservience and respect exacted among them. ‘They appear to have a consciousness of independence, which causes them, on all occasions, to treat even the highest with equality. On being asked to work, they usually reply, “ White fellow work, not black fellow ;” and on entering a room, they never remain standing, but immediately seat themselves. They are not great talkers, but are usually silent and reserved. They are generally well-disposed, but dislike to be much spoken to, particularly in a tone of raillery. An anecdote was mentioned of a gentleman amusing himself with a native, by teasing him, in perfect good-humour, when the man suddenly seized a billet of wood, threw it at him, and then in a great rage rushed for his spear. It was with great difficulty that he could be pacified, and made to know that no insult was intended ; he then begged that they would not talk to him in that manner, as he might become wild and ungovernable. They look upon the whites with a mixture of distrust and contempt, and to govern them by threats and violence is found impossible. ‘They are susceptible of being led by kind treatment, but on an injury or insult they immediately take to the Bush, and resume their wandering habits. They do not carry on any systematic attacks, and their fears of the whites are so great, that large companies of them have been dispersed by small exploring parties and a few resolute Stockmen. Though they are constantly wandering about, yet they usually confine themselves to a radius of fifty or sixty miles from the place they consider their residence. If they venture beyond this, which they sometimes do with a party of whites, they always betray the greatest fear of falling in with some Myall or stranger blacks, who they say would put them to death immediately. Their great timidity has caused a false estimate to be put upon their character, by ascribing to it great ferocity ; and, as an instance of it, itis mentioned, that if a party of natives be suddenly approached in the interior, who are unacquainted with white men, and taken by VOL. II. 50 198 NEW SOUTH WALES. surprise, supposing that they are surrounded and doomed to death, they make the most furious onset, and sell their lives as dearly as possible: this arises from the panic with which they are seized, depriving them temporarily of reason. They have not, properly speaking, any distribution into tribes. In their conflicts, those speaking the same language, and who have fought side by side, are frequently drawn up in battle-array against each other, and a short time after may be again seen acting together. Their conflicts, for they do not deserve the name of wars, are con- ducted after the following manner. ‘The quarrel or misunderstanding generally arises from some trivial affair; when the aggrieved party assembles his neighbours to consult them relative to the course to be pursued. ‘lhe general opinion having been declared, a messenger is sent to announce their intention to commence hostilities to the oppo- site party, and to fix a day for the combat. ‘The latter immediately assemble their friends, and make preparations for the approaching contest. ‘The two parties on the day assigned meet, accompanied by the women and children. ‘The first onset is made by the oldest women (hags they might be termed) vituperating the opposite side. Then a warrior advances, and several throws of spears take place. These are parried with much dexterity, for all the natives possess great art and skill in avoiding missiles with their shields. This exchange of missiles continues for some time, and not unfrequently ends without any fatal result. When one of either party is killed, a separation takes place, succeeded by another course of recrimination, after which explanations are made, the affair terminates, and hostility is at an end; the two parties meet amicably, bury the dead, and join in the corrobory dance. These dances are not only the usual close of their combats, but are frequent in time of peace. ‘They appear almost necessary to stir up their blood; and under the excitement they produce, the whole nature of the people seems to be changed. ‘To a spectator, the effect of one of these exhibitions almost equals that of a tragic melodrame. A suitable place for the performance is selected in the neighbour- hood of their huts. Here a fire is built by the women and boys, while such of the men as are to take a share in the exhibition, usually about twenty in number, disappear to arrange their per- sons. When these preparations are completed, and the fire burns brightly, the performers are seen advancing in the guise of as many skeletons. This effect is produced by means of pipe-clay, with which they paint broad white lines on their arms and legs, and on —s wy @ i 4 NEW SOUTH WALES. 199 the head, while others of less breadth are drawn across the body, to correspond to the ribs. The music consists in beating time on their shields, and singing, and to it the movements of the dancers conform. It must not be supposed that this exhibition is a dance in our sense of the word, nor is it ike any thing that we saw in the South Sea Islands. It consists of violent and odd movements of the arms, legs, and body, contortions and violent muscular actions, amount- ing almost to frenzy. ‘The performers appear more like a child’s pasteboard supple-Jack than any thing human in their movements. This action continues for a time, and then the skeletons, for so I may term them, for they truly resemble them, suddenly seem to vanish and reappear. ‘The disappearance is effected by merely turn- ing round, for the figures are painted only in front, and their dusky forms are lost by mingling with the dark background. The trees illuminated by the fire, are brought out with some of the figures in bold relief, while others were indistinct and ghost-like. All concurred to give an air of wildness to the strange scene. As the dance pro- ceeds, the excitement increases, and those who a short time before appeared only half alive, become full of animation, and finally were obliged to stop from exhaustion. These corroborys are the occasion of much intercourse among the tribes, as they frequently make visits to each other for the sole pur- pose of carrying a new song for the dance. ‘They have several kinds of these dances, which appear to be their only amusement. In their music they do not sound any of the common chords, and the only accompaniment was a kind of bass, as written below, which was in fact only a very deep-toned grunt, sounded, as ho, ho, ho, very deep in the throat. At the end of each dance they finished with a loud whoo, or screech, an octave above the key-note. = ese ne ee === =e == (peer eee Bae ee ee a See (|S2e== 2 ase Sas oe ees ——— —————— o-e-@ ——— ~g-g@--—— — (Se 2-2— —= =f E 5 = Ic eto eee ah a Sie a ee ftttsce aa eee —=+ —— 3-5-4 -— ——-} 4-4-4 — ——_- e—e-e--___—_le-¢-6 _____—_1,-,-,—__—_—. 200 NEW SOUTH WALES. The above is thought by Mr. Drayton, not to be entirely native music, but the following he has no doubt of; the words were given as he heard them. a aS Sy es [oe ee ee |S ee oar Soe oe (‘ames See ee == . 1 — _—— eat a eae Mer - ry dunbar a - roa Merry dunbar roa — ——— =p sis rei : SS See o- = pas ceeaa] ates Parree jeseeal (oe ee ee eee Sg = O man gar merry nee run mun gar. The above, as well as those which follow, were obtained from a native, who was on his way with the new song to his tribe. pee ec ae Cn ened pasa eee geet ase} BS ea ars Ge Ae ee bee -O-- =e bene. ener, el Rae nee 5 a aa = Sheeley HOY Sy BOW Be -0-: 0 > Cec Eaes —— fae Se parla ee ala ge se So Abang abang abang abang abang abang abang abang a (ees (Sacececace Perris arava pereror gumbe-ry jah jim gun relah gumbe - ry jah jim gun relah 7e== Sai ieemoee eaten ieee era aI == SPRL oR Sa sf = a al MEN oS -o- o--6— -0- 6-97 o-e @-@ oe oe bang abang abang abang abang abang abang abang a. We have seen that the combats, of which mention has been made, are attended with little loss of life; nor are their set battles bloody. In all their contests they seem to act wpon certain principles, well established in their code of honour, and firmly adhered to. Ac- cording to eye-witnesses of their battles, these are conducted with system and regularity. On one occasion, the parties advanced towards each other drawn up in three lines, with the women fol- lowing in the rear, and when they had arrived within a few rods of each other, they threw their boomerengs or curved sticks. These, as they fell among their opponents, were picked up by the women, and given to the warriors, who hurled them back to their original owners, by whom they were again used. When these weapons were lost or broken, they then had recourse to their spears, which NEW SOUTH WALES. 201 NATIVE THROWING THE BOOMERENG, they threw, parried, and returned in like manner. They then closed, and fought hand to hand with their clubs, for a considerable time. ‘heir extraordinary quickness of eye, alertness, and agility of movement, protect them from much harm; and their thickness of skull may also be taken into account, for nothing worse than a few bruises and broken limbs resulted. The fight gradually dwindled down to a single combat between two of the most determined war- riors, and when one of these was knocked down by a stunning blow, another took his place and continued the fight until one was severely injured. ‘The battle then terminated. _ Some of their personal or private quarrels are settled by a sort of duel, or rather a trial of whose head is hardest. ‘The accused or challenged party extends his head, with the crown uppermost, towards his adversary, who strikes a blow with his utmost force with a waddy, which is the weapon they usually carry about them, and with which they punish their wives, who exhibit generally many marks from the use of it. The challenger then presents his head in return, and blows are thus continued alternately, until one or the other is disa- bled, or both declare themselves satisfied. Those who have witnessed these encounters are quite astonished that every blow does not stun or kill, for each of them would be fatal to a white man; but the great thickness of their skulls enables them to sustain this violence with but little injury. VOL. Il. 51 202 NEW SOUTH WALES. Their weapons are the spear, club, or nulla nulla, boomereng, dundumel, and the bundi, of which drawings are given in the tail- piece at the end of the last chapter. Their spears are about ten feet long, and very slender, made of cane or wood tapering to a point, which is barbed. ‘They are light, and one would scarcely be inclined to believe that they could be flung with any force; nor could they without the aid of the wammera, a straight flat stick, three feet in length, terminating in a socket of bone or hide, into which the end of the spear is fixed. ‘The wammera is grasped in the right hand by three fingers, the spear lying between the fore-finger and thumb. Previous to throwing it, a tremulous or vibratory motion is given to it, which is supposed to add to the accuracy of the aim; in projecting the spear, the wammera is retained in the hand, and the use of this simple contrivance adds greatly to the projectile force given to the spear. They are well practised in the use of these weapons. The nulla nulla, or uta, is from thirty to thirty-six inches in length, the handle being of a size to be conveniently grasped. The dundumel is a weapon used by the natives of the interior; it has a curved flat handle thirty inches in length, and terminates in a projection not unlike a hatchet; it is thrown from the hand before coming to close quarters, and usually at a very short distance. But the most extraordinary weapon is the boomereng. ‘This is a flat stick, three feet long and two inches wide by three quarters of an inch thick, curved or crooked in the centre, forming an obtuse angle. At first sight one would conclude it was a wooden sword, very rudely and clumsily made; indeed one of the early navigators took it for such. It is an implement used both for war and in the chase. In the hands of a native it is a missile efficient for both, and is made to describe some most extraordinary curves and movements. It is grasped at one end in the right. hand, and is thrown sickle-wise, either upwards into the air, or downwards so as to strike the ground at some distance from the thrower. In the first case it flies with a rotary motion, as its shape would indicate; after ascending to a great height in the air, it suddenly returns in an elliptical orbit to a spot near its starting-point. The natives in its use are enabled to strike objects which he behind others with great precision, and to reach those near as if by a back-stroke, by throwing it at a particular angle. The diagram at the end of the chapter, exhibits the curves at the angles of 22°, 45°, and 65°, respectively, which I have obtained in making experiments with it. Some facts which were spoken of in its use, are remarkable. On throwing it downwards on the ground, it NEW SOUTH WALES. 203 rebounds in a straight line, pursuing a ricochet motion until it strikes the object at which it is thrown. Birds and small animals are killed with it, and it is also used in killing ducks. The most singular curve described by it, is when thrown into the air, above the angle of 45°; its flight is always then backwards, and the native who throws it stands with his back, instead of his face, to the object he is desirous of hitting. The diagram also exhibits its fall in case it loses its rotary motion. It is a favourite weapon with the natives, and is frequently seen ingeniously carved. As a defence they use a shield made of the thick bark of the gum tree; this they call hiclemara. It is peculiar in shape, and on the coast is three feet long by six or eight inches wide, with a handle in the centre; it is made rounding. Those in the interior are only a three-cornered piece of wood, with a hole on each side, through which the hand is thrust. The size of the latter is smaller, beg only two feet long and three or four inches broad. It would seem almost impossible that so small a shield should be sufficient to guard the body of a man; and nothing but their quickness of eye and hand could make it of any value, as a protection against the spear or club. The mode in which the natives climb trees was considered ex- traordinary by those who witnessed it, although they had been accustomed to the feats of the Polynesians in the ascent of the cocoa- nut trees. The Australians mount a tree four or five feet in diameter, both with rapidity and safety. As they climb they cut notches above them, with a stone or metal hatchet, large enough to admit two of their toes, which are inserted in them, and support their weight until other holes are cut. The natives who reside upon the coast use canoes which are con- structed as follows. A eum tree that has a thick and tough bark is selected ; this is girdled, and the bark slit so that by care a piece of it may be stripped from the tree large enough to make the canoe, which is usually about fourteen feet long and seven wide. This piece of bark is charred on the inside, after which it is folded in each end, so as to bring the edges of the two halves of the entire circuit of the bark together; in this position these edges are fastened by cords and wooden rivets. The simple canoe is now complete, and being usually about three feet wide in the middle, will convey half a dozen persons. They use paddles of different sizes, say from two to five feet in length. In using the shorter kind, a paddle is held in each hand. 204 NEW SOUTH WALES. A fire is commonly carried upon a layer of gravel in the middle of the boat: a custom which appears to arise either from a natural or superstitious reluctance to be without a fire at any time. In this custom, as will be recollected, they resemble the Fuegians, who, however, far excel them in the art of constructing canoes. The social system and intercourse of the Australians is regulated by custom alone. As no system of government exists, or any acknowledgment of power to enact laws, they are solely guided by old usage, and can give no account whatever of its origm. The universal reprobation of their associates which follows a breach of ancient customs, has a strong tendency to preserve a strict observance of them. Many of these customs struck us as remarkable; those that have not been actually seen by the officers of the Expedition, have been described by persons entitled to the fullest credit. The onsen, (to use the language of the settlers,) “of making young men,” is singular. The object of the institution seems to be to imprint forcibly upon the youth the rules and observances by which his after life is to be governed; and so strikingly are they adapted to insure good conduct, that it can hardly be believed that they could have originated among savages, such as the natives of Australia now are. When the boys reach the age of fourteen, or that of puberty, the elders of the tribe prepare to initiate them into the privileges of manhood. A night or two previous, a dismal cry is heard in the woods, which the boys are told is the Bulu calling for them. Thereupon all the men of the tribe set off for some secluded spot, previously fixed upon, taking with them the boys or youths to be initiated. No white man is allowed to be present, and the precise nature of the ceremony is therefore unknown ; but it is certain that the ceremonies are designed to try their courage, fortitude, and the expertness of the boys in reference to their future employments in the chase and in war. ‘There is probably some difference in these ceremonies among the different tribes. The Wellington station, or those of the interior, for instance, never knock out a front tooth, which is always done on the coast. From the time the youths are initiated, they are required to yield implicit obedience to their elders. This is the only control that seems to prevail, and is very requisite to preserve order and harmony in their social intercourse, as well as to supply the place of distinc- tions of rank among them. NEW SOUTH WALES: 205 The youths are likewise restricted to articles of diet, not being allowed to eat eggs, fish, or any of the finer kinds of opossum or kangaroo. ‘Their fare is consequently of a very poor description, but as they grow older these restrictions are removed, although at what age we have not learnt; but after having passed the middle age, they are entirely at liberty to partake of all. The purpose of this is thought to be not only to accustom them to a simple and hardy way of living, but also that they should provide for the aged, and not be allowed to appropriate all to themselves. Selfishness is therefore no part of their character, and all observers are struck with their custom of dividing any thing they may receive among each other, a disin- terestedness that is seldom seen among civilized nations. To protect the morals of the youths, they are forbidden from the time of their initiation until their marriage to speak or even to approach afemale. They must encamp at a distance from them, and if, per- chance, one is seen in the pathway, they are obliged to make a detour in order to avoid her. Mr. Watson stated he had been often put to great inconvenience in travelling through the woods with a young native for his guide, as he could never be induced to approach an encampment where there were any women. The ceremony of marriage is peculiar. In most cases the parties are betrothed at an early age, and as soon as they arrive at the proper age, the young man claims his gin or wife. The women are considered as an article of property, and are sold or given away by the parents or relatives without the least regard to their own wishes. As far as our observation went, the women appear to take little care of their children. Polygamy exists, and they will frequently give one of their wives to a friend who may be in want of one; but notwithstanding this laxity they are extremely jealous, and are very prompt to resent any freedom taken with their wives. Their quarrels for the most part are occasioned by the fair sex, and being the cause, they usually are the greatest sufferers; for the waddy is applied to their heads in a most unmerciful style, and few old women are to be seen who do not bear unquestionable marks of the hard usage they have received. The husband who suspects another of seducing his wife, either kills one or both. ‘The affair is taken up by the tribe, if the party belongs to another, who inflict punishment on him in the following manner. The guilty party is furnished with a shield, and made to stand at a suitable distance, and the whole tribe cast their spears at him; his VOL. II. 52 206 NEW SOUTH WALES. expertness and activity often enable him to escape any serious injury, but imstances do occur in which the party is killed. Such punish- ments are inflicted with great formality, upon an appointed day, and the whole tribe assemble to witness it. The person most injured has the first throw, and it depends upon the feelings of the tribe respecting the offence committed, whether they endeavour to do injury to the culprit or not; and thus it may be supposed that there is some judgment evinced in this mode of punishment. The following account of the burial of their dead, was received from the missionary, who was an eye-witness to it. He was called out one evening to see a native, who they said was dying. On repairing to the camp, he was too late, for the man was already dead, and notwithstanding the short space of time that had elapsed, the corpse was already wrapped up for burial. The legs had been bent at the knees and hips, and tied to the body, and the head bent downwards towards the legs. In this position the corpse was enve- loped in a blanket, and bound round with many ligatures, so as to form a shapeless lump. There were about fifty natives present, seated within a small space in front. The women were raising dismal lamentations and cutting themselves with sharp sticks; while the men were engaged in an earnest consultation as to the place which should be fixed upon for the burial. At length it was deter- mined to be on the banks of the Macquarie, at no great distance from the mission station. On the following day the missionary proceeded to the place, and found that the natives had already cleared the grass from a space about twenty feet in diameter; in the centre of this the grave was marked out, of an oval shape, six feet long by three feet wide. After digging to the depth of about a foot, they left a ledge all around the grave of a few inches in width: the excavation thus diminished in size, was continued to the depth of five feet, the sides not being exactly perpendicular, but sloping slightly inwards. At the bottom of the grave was laid a bed of leaves covered with an opossum-skin cloak, and having a stuffed bag of kangaroo-skin for a pillow; on this couch the body was laid, and the implements of hunting and war which the deceased had used during his lifetime were laid beside him. Leaves and branches of bushes were strewed over him, until the grave was filled up to the ledge or shelf above mentioned. Across the grave were laid strong stakes, with the ends resting on this shelf, and on these a layer of stones, which filled the hole to the level of the soil. The excavated earth was then put over NEW SOUTH WALES. 207 the whole, forming a conical heap eight or nine feet high. The trees on each side were marked with irregular incisions, but whether intended as symbols, or merely to identify the place of sepulture, was not understood. All the time this was going on, fires were kept burning around the place, to drive away evil spirits, and the women and children ut‘ered loud lamentations, inflicting at the same time wounds upon themselves. When the grave was completed, all the women and children were ordered away, and the missionary, perceiv- ing that it was expected that he would do the same, retired also. His presumption was that they intended to give utterance to their grief, and that they were ashamed to do it in his presence, or before the women and children. The day after the burial the natives visited every spot in which they recollected to have seen the deceased, and fumigated it, for the purpose of driving away the evil spirits. They even went into the missionaries’ houses, greatly to the annoyance of the ladies. Their style of mourning consists in bedaubing themselves with pipe-clay ; and a more hideous object than an old woman thus tricked out can hardly be conceived. The body and limbs are streaked with it, and the face completely covered as with a mask, in which holes are left for the eyes, nostrils, and mouth. The mask is gradually removed, until the last that is seen of it is a small patch on the top of the head. They have some idea of a future state, although some assert that the whole man dies, and that nothing is left of him ; while others are of opinion that his spirit yet lives, either as a wandering ghost or in a state of metamorphosis, animating a bird or other creature of a lower order than man. Their opinions on religious subjects generally partake of the same unsettled character, which makes it very difficult to obtain any clear idea of them. The great difficulty is the unwillingness of the natives to talk upon the subject, either from superstition or shame; and it is the opinion of the missionaries that no full account of their religious notions will be obtained, until one of the well-informed adults is converted to Christianity, an event which is not soon to be expected. The missionaries have had little or no success; none of the adults have hitherto shown any desire to embrace Christianity; and it is remarked, that there appears to be a want of susceptibility in their character to religious impressions. Some of their ceremonies which partook of that character have been discontinued of late years, and no 208 NEW SOUTH WALES. others have been adopted in their place. They have, however, some indistinct notions of a Deity. ‘The missionaries at Wellington have heard from them of a being whom they call Bai-a-mai, and whom, with his son Burambin, they deem the creator of all things. To this Bai-a-mai they pay a kind of annual worship by dancing and singing a song in his honour. ‘This song, they say, was brought from a distant country by strangers who went about teaching it. This annual worship took place in the month of February, and all who did not join in it were supposed to incur the displeasure of the god. Bai-a-mai was supposed to live on an island beyond the great sea of the coast, and to eat fish, which, when he required food, came up at his call from the water. Burambin, others say, was brought into existenee by Bai-a-mai, when the missionaries first came to Wel- lineton. Dararwirgal is a brother of Bai-a-mai, and lives in the far west. To him they ascribe the origin of the small-pox, which has made such ravages among them. They say that he was vexed for want of a tomahawk, and therefore sent that disease among them; but they now suppose that he has obtained one, and that the disease will come no more. Balumbals are angels, said to be white, who live on a mountain to the southwest, at a great distance. ‘Their food is honey, and their employment like that of the missionaries. Wandong is their evil spirit, whom they have learnt from the whites to call the “ Devil.” They describe him as a gigantic black man, always prowling about at night, ready to seize and devour any unfortunate wanderer. So great is their horror of this imaginary being, that they never venture from their fires at night, except under the pressure of great necessity, when they always carry a firebrand to intimidate the monster. FLIGHT OF THE BOOMERENG. om N "Vn o MACASSAR spp, ° o é ———< \ 2 ’ q.sandalwooe - e ae nae epee te woe eemme mails Boom stcnnns B Cc. naukzen BBR, a Admira7,,, | "Ny, G- Montagy, Soot Ip York Sonn Me. R f onR ES oa) cWesel — Endeavour s7f2, i a eg OF ouUTH na (A UESS| ECL Re VAUaTsmrranAae Established 1834 Liverpool Plaansc , 2OASSS PUM LL ov Ih > P. Wunter Cuningham Plaws Burrawerree ‘Murroo B. SETTLED PART OF | were’ 9 NEW SOUTH WALES | 1S4©. Barmouth Cr. Le st i A a 1 yomouth Gulr 2 SW-Cape| ath ARAN erg] Bouton oD < E 5 { : Ss fF rmerins pe Walsh \ ae Liverpool Py “s SBA 1a _ f ce SUG 5 BE) "f . ti \ ae RS Narre ae! x diay stralian = | ep eeRilay ey z ten Pdhas Lyne } \, CMe Mog x 7c oLONX OF fe ae a hk in Z i, 5 x \ Ailiiralyep "My Me. wontu| J ‘te | | Montag sift Pe Be MLA Saar . H York Sony 4 AUS TN ALL I Ay OT? — ci stablished 1838. yp speinsmFick Baye Dp — Reads Mistake 7 | f CObLony oy | soutn ASTOn ss iterte nen irk A “Arey s we —~—- —s|) Comm nak of I ceatastroOhe } Spence net eh | 6m" | 00 \ — | Kang" F yuoo™ : ill } chon “9 ao | ave | | exontun Ny yor | = a] SETTLED PART OF Barmouth Cr. CHAPTER VII. CONTENTS. EXTENT OF SEA-COAST OF AUSTRALIA—PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY—EXTENT OF THE GOVERNMENT OF NEW SOUTH WALES—HISTORY OF NEW SOUTH WALES—AUSTRALIAN LAND COMPANY—LAND FUND—POLICY OF GOVERNOR MACQUARIE—CONVICT-SHIP — VALUE OF CONVICT LABOUR—DISPOSITION OF CONVICTS ON ARRIVAL— ALLOWANCES TO CONVICT SERVANTS — WORKING OF THE ASSIGNMENT SYSTEM — SEPARATION OF FEMALE CONVICTS FROM THEIR CHILDREN—FACTORY AT PARAMATTA—ITS DISCIPLINE —CHILDREN IN THE FACTORY—IRON-GANGS—CAPTAIN MACONOCHIE’S SOCIAL SYSTEM —ITS OPERATION—ITS PARTIAL ADOPTION AT SYDNEY, AND AT NORFOLK ISLAND—TWO DIFFERENT FORMS OF SOCIAL SYSTEM—CONDITION OF CONVICTS AND SOLDIERS COM- PARED — TICKET OF LEAVE-MEN — DISTINCTIONS IN SOCIETY — FREE EMIGRANTS — LABOURING CLASS OF FREE EMIGRANTS — CRIMPS — HIGHER CLASS OF SOCIETY — GOVERNOR, HOW APPOINTED, AND FOR WHAT TERM—HIS POWERS—HIS SUCCESSOR IN CASE OF DEATH OR ABSENCE — LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL — COLONIAL RULES AND REGULATIONS—EXPENDITURE AND MODE OF TAXATION—WORKING OF THE LEGISLA- TIVE SYSTEM—STATUTE OF NEW SOUTH WALES—DESIRE FOR A NEW CONSTITUTION— BOUNTY ON IMMIGRATION—EMIGRATION—MODE OF PROCURING GRANTS OF LAND — STATE OF CRIME IN NEW SOUTH WALES—JUDGE BURTON’S CHARGE—HIS REPORT ON THE JURY SYSTEM—OPINIONS OF OTHER JUDGES—COURTS OF LAW — EDUCATION — BISHOPRIC OF NEW SOUTH WALES—COLLEGES. CHAPTER: VI. HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND SOCIAL STATE OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 1839. New Sovurn WaLEs is known in the United States almost by its name alone. It happened from. the circumstances of our visit, that we were enabled to obtain much information in relation to this rising colony. Australia, or New Holland, of which New South Wales is as yet the most important part, requires no description of its dimensions and geographical position. It is sufficient to note the fact that it possesses a sea-coast of the vast extent of eight thousand miles. It was first discovered by the Dutch, while engaged in exploring the coast of New Guinea, who saw the portion of it to the south of Endeavour Straits, and gave it a name from that of their own country, im 1606. my a 1838. County oF CuMBERLAND :— Seay FS ooo 6 2 6 100 | im | as) Wes mae |) ma Campbelltown . .. . 11 18 12 w 9 5 Raramattayauinen co) Genie 12 15 12 14 18 14 Windsor ieee! a Be 42 55 24 15 20 8 Ist Jan, 1837, to 15th Aug. 1839, LSENIWESE dg SO ha Bo dle = 16 12 —_ 48 29 Ist Jan. 1837, to 15th Aug. 1839, Man than eeagsiamass sisters ete p ie 38 = — 4] — = CRIMINAL ISSUES TRIED BEFORE THE SUPREME COURT. A Return of the number of Criminal Issues and Prisoners tried before the Supreme Court of New South Wales, from the 1st day of January, 1887, to the 15th day of August, 1839; distinguishing those tried by Civil, and by Military Juries. NO, OF CASES TRIED.| NO, OF PRISONERS TRIED.) NO. OF PRISONERS CONVICTED. YEAR. BY A CIVIL | BY A MILI- BY A CIVIL BY A MILITARY BY A CIVIL BY A MILITARY JURY. TARY JURY. JURY. JURY. JURY. JURY. 1837 136 130 223 175 99 97 1838 108 136 168 181 96 118 1839 | 57 46 83 76 46 60 TOTALS) 301 312 A774 432 241 275 VOL. Il. 115 458 APPENDIX. er U.S. Ship Vincennes, Sydney Cove, December 11th, 1839. GENTLEMEN, To prevent any misunderstanding relative to the conversation with you on the 30th ultimo, I would state that it was not my intention to make any proposition to you to leave the squadron, during our cruise south, but to receive any suggestions that you might offer, after being informed of our cruise, that might be considered more advantageous to your departments than accompanying the squadron in the Antare- tic cruise. It is my intention to sail from this harbour on the 18th instant, with all the vessels of the squadron, for the Antarctic Ocean. The vessels will be ordered to call at New Zealand in the spring, and may be expected there in March or April, if they are not detained by ice. I request that such of you as may wish orders to join the squadron at New Zealand under these circumstances, will inform me by letter. I am, respectfully, your obedient servant, (Signed) CuarLes WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. To the Gentlemen of the Scientific Corps. U.S. Ship Vincennes, December 19th, 1839. GENTLEMEN, Agreeably to your application, you will remain on shore, and join the squadron on the return of the Expedition, from the Antarctic Ocean, at the Bay of Islands, by the Ist of March next. You will, of course, employ yourselves as may be most conducive to the interest of the Expedition, in New South Wales and New Zealand, and will keep a minute journal, making all possible collec- tions, and a full report to me in writing, of your observations and duties. APPENDIX. 459 Vouchers for passages and expenses on scientific excursions on public duty, will be taken when practicable for my approval. IT am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, (Signed) CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. To Messrs. PEALE, Ricu, PICKERING, Hate, Dana, AGATE, Drayton, Scientific Corps. U. 8. Ship Vincennes, Sydney Cove, December 23d, 1839. Sir, You will proceed to New Zealand by the first opportunity, and attend to the following duties. Ist. You will make hourly observations of the tides. 2d. Observations of the temperature, at eight, twelve, and six; winds, weather, &c. 3d. Collect all specimens possible for the scientific corps, and other departments of the Expedition. 4th. Keep a journal, and note all the information you can obtain relative to New Zealand, and make a report in writing to me. You will take with you a tide-staff, three thermometers, watch, stationary, &c. I am, respectfully, your obedient servant, (Signed) CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. Mr. J. W. WaLpRon, U.S. Brig Porpoise. Sydney, December 2d, 1839. Sir, The undersigned, naval officers and naturalists, attached to the Expedition under your command, are prompted by sincere zeal in the public service, and a most disinterested desire to promote the important objects of the cruise, to submit to your indulgent consider- ation the following proposition : 460 APPENDIX. We are induced to think that an English brig lately arrived in this harbour, and, in our judgment, very well adapted for such a service, may be purchased at a reasonable rate; and that, while the rest of the squadron proceeds on the southern tour, we may be advan- tageously employed in the survey and examination of many interesting and important islands. We, therefore, respectfully suggest the employment of this or a similar vessel, and volunteer our best endeavours to perform to the spirit such duties as you may conclude to assign to us during your absence in the south; and we beg you to accept our assurance, that, in case of your consent, no exertion shall be spared to justify this proposal, and recommend our temporary service to your highest consideration. Very respectfully, Wm. M. WaLKER,* James ALDEN, Lieutenants. J. C. Pater, Acting- Surgeon. Wm. Reynotps, Simon F. Buunt, Passed Midshipmen. 405 18s IP roa, Wm. Ricu, James D. Dana, H. Hate, ALFRED T. AGATE, Scientific Corps. Note.—No notice was taken of this letter; it being one of the official communications of the cruise, has caused me to insert it. CHARLES WILKES. U.S. Ship Vincennes, December 2d, 1839. In declining to sign the accompanying paper I do not wish to have it understood that I disapprove of the proposition in the main. [f the * Mr. Walker begs leave to disavow any thought of promotion on the projected service, and, in anticipation, begs respectfully, but most earnestly, to declme any acting appointment. APPENDIX. 461 commander of the Expedition should find that it better suited his convenience to charter a vessel to convey us to a rendezvous, and for other purposes, I should not conceive that I had a voice in the matter; but a direct proposition having already been made (with which I have every reason to be satisfied), perhaps some expression of opinion may be looked for on my part. I confess then freely that I have been actuated somewhat by selfish considerations. A visit to New Zealand is a point which I have more at heart than any other in these seas, and I conceive the time allotted by no means too much to be employed between Australia, New Zealand, and the Tonga Islands. Perhaps, if I had every thing at my disposal, I should feel tempted to touch at some southern point of New Zealand, before proceeding to the Bay of Islands; but there would be danger in this, both by land and water, besides the risk of losing the main points of observation. Farther than this, I should not think of attempting. I should therefore deprecate any change of plan, which would lead to a change of destination, but of course should not expect my individual voice to weigh against the general good of the Expedition. CHARLES PICKERING. To CHarues WILKES, Esa., Commanding Exploring Expedition. VOL. Il. 116 462 RETURN OF THE SCHOOLS IN NEW SOUTH WALES IN APPENDIX. 3 NO. OF SCHOLARS 4 ATTENDING. DESCRIPTION. WHERE SITUATED. | 2 = a a oF ’ i) =| ral < Sh So: iS z Bs & I. INSTITUTIONS AND SCHOOLS, SUPPORTED WHOLLY, OR IN PART, BY GOVERNMENT. Church of England. Male Orphan Institution.. | Liverpool....+ 900|) sei) SG) | eS 147 Female Orphan Institution | Paramatta---..+.| 1 | — 141] 141 Primary and Infant Sydney ++.+eceees 6 | 567] 383) 950 Schools Country Districts | 29 | 682] 548 | 1,230 37 | 1,396 | 1,072 | 2,468 Roman Catholic. Orphan Institution..... } WaverlyGrescenty 1 40 22 62 near Sydney -- Sydney ....... e--| 5 | 239] 225 | 464 Primary and Infant-- «e+ oes Country Districts | 5 | 234) 157 | 391 Sydney «-..+..e+ 1 Primary and Infant..... j ee 50 70 | 120 Country Districts | 4 16) 563 | 474 | 1,037 Presbyterian. Sydney ...-.-.--- 10 . Primary and Infant....- 200 | 150 | 350 Country Districts | 7 | Estijmated|/Nos. Australian School Society. Primary and Infant....... | Sydney «+++.s++++ 2) 46) 30| 76 Wesleyan. Sunday Schools .........+ Sydney «....e0s 4| * II. INSTITUTIONS AND SCHOOLS, SUPPORTED WHOLLY BY PRIVATE INDIVIDUALS. Colleges. King’s School .......+ ....| Paramatta......- 1 | 105) — 105 Sydney College.......-.++5 Sydney ...---..-| 1) 125) — | 125 Australian College...-..-- Sydney -+++.++++- D520) | 70 3 300 | — 300 Private Schools. =| ee Classical, Elementary, j Sydney .........-| 30 | 390] 530} 920 Crt Country Districts | 37 | 442] 444 | 886 67 832 974 | 1,806 TOTALS 142 | 3,337 | 2,700 | 6,037 XGIae THE YEAR 1838. — s00 0 0 ; 769 13 1 | } 126 7 7 lntcce am al | 1,121 6 6 | | 178 011 | 5015 8 | 2,580 0 3} em) £12,425 6 0} 5 i EXPENSE PAID BY THE GOVERNMENT REMARKS. IN 1838. a & GS 1 3000S Es } Supported wholly by Go- 3,708 5 5 vernment. Supported chiefly by Go- | eae some slight por- tion of the expense is paid by the parents of the children. Supported wholly by Go- vernment. Supported chiefly by Go- vernment; some slight por- tion of the expense is paid by the parents of the children. These schools are sup- ported by Government, and by voluntary contributions; the principle being, that in aid of each school, sums are paid from the Colonial Trea- sury, equal to those raised by private subscriptions. The expenses are defrayed by the subscribers to these institutions, and by the fees paid by the parents or guar- dians of the students. * Number of Children attending these Schools, 312, of which 157 are Males, and 155 Females. 463 APPENDIX. C9P'6SI| 996'EE | OLP'ES | TB0'OL | ° OFPET JO uoNTindog 960°LL | TLUPIT | oss'hl | SLe‘ap | * 9€8L Jo uoneindog adav L9g‘'sS | S6L‘6L | 9EEOL | 9P9'TS 99L'8 | sate | SLs'T | 9907 oO ORCA Ad GSvauoia GEL'TO | OG6'SS | TOSS | GIL'SG EP9'ST | EP9'SI = = Dye Be iy SULT, SIE TT — Soo% | OTES'6 “ht 8 syorauod Gol'Le | LLSOL | 9PF‘OT | SOOT | °° * Syueasruruy —————$ | ——_— |—— A@ ASVAUONT ‘[P}IOT, | UaIppIyO] ‘uout0 AA | = “UOTAy ‘NOLLVTALId VOAU gous | 9cPt | Sus'l | 699'T | 990'F | geL'l9 | eF9'sT | LEs'9 | 90F'9 | GOSTT | Gso's | OTEG | SeT'LE | LLS‘OT | 9FV'OT | GOF‘9T BBE | SOF iad GBP GEOL | G6SVLT | S6Gh | PITS | GIT PLS 19P EIT | sS9'0L | 960% | ASH'e | GSTS Tavs | sep 6PF 00 GOL | SS68T | POEE | 9B9'T | SLOT | 6G% 86h G9G‘T 8SEeL | 96L'E 6ILE | &PB'S POLS | 66E E86 LOF G86 6PL'PL | 9686 | 98E'l | OSH | ELOE GEE OPL'S | OPs's | LLO'E | GELS | TE9's 66L‘T | 613 £08 086 LE6 OL66 | OLES TILT | 6911 | Sore GES 68'S | SLOP =| 89E'T Ssl'T | 69L'T “ROL, See e ee AAO eee O) aaa [BO 7, | ‘aeulag | ‘ope yay [eIOT, | ‘oeMag | ‘ore ‘[RIOT, |USIpP[IyH | ‘Uouo AA | = "UOTAT ‘Olea ‘OTP TAL eS: TVUINAD "SHLVaAa *SHLUIE *SLOIANOO ‘SINVUDSIWWI ‘TAISNIONI ‘QOPRT OL LEST UVAA AHL WOUd STV.LOL OP8L 6E8T 8§8T LE8T “UVGA ‘SUTVM HLAOS MAN JO ANO'TOO STHL NI SHLVAG GNV SHLUIE JO GNV ‘AAATWUV SLOIANOO CNV SLNVUDINWI JO NUMLAY ALIS 19 € Les'20T|p 9 E6e'%G)aue0 rad Fr1]0 er LLL‘ge8'T] 9 OT 9F9‘G00's] 8 ET gos'ses's|trortec‘erls T eu lL ¢ $69'9G| 10 PL ETL'GLE|9 4 re‘Lee LIE STSoe'o90'l} £6 G EbO'L | to 2 etp'es|te1 ose'brs { einen ae 6 SI GB9'SLT|¢ BE BGE'FG "1499 49d {11/0 0 ‘FGO'SGG'L| 4 LT GGE‘OIG'e]9 L Loe'sos's|, TT OBO'ST|E ¢ E29'9 |¢ 6 GLE'GS| OF GSO'POFILEG Lee‘Ers'Lls LT oce'Zb6 | $1 099'T |r z gos'roltEe 826'008! TST “99 ISTE TT F 8G6"G0L 1 St L1@'S6 1U99 rod £11] OL BES‘EGs'T|FOL 8 £ES'9G0'E|tOr OF 629'R8S's]e OL FLL‘PT| LG LE COG'L 3s Soo'2s [EB T OLe'saElLT 8 906'9EE'T| fee R6r'c90'L|TSE OGG'E 18 6G gse'oSle ar T90'ETS) TERE “dag W108 ‘€ S FOS'G [9 G1 TIS‘E6)/"1Ua0 rad F11\0 OF BeE'9L8'I| TL ST 80Z‘0S0'E| 6 OL SBF‘919'SloLSTTas‘OL F 0 96U'L 16 6 FS6'GS!] 0 GT L80'FBElS & HSL'EGE'L|S FL LEL‘OOL'L| T € 898‘ S| % ba) ors‘esle & goo'ees) Lpae ‘aun uI0E € IT ZSs'98 |p GI GFL‘98\"3U09 19d TLL) O OGT'OGL'T| & LT EGELOO'E! & ¢ GOB'STO'S |G LT 68L'6 |¢ T GOL‘'G |L T SeE'Fs] SIE LEL‘shEO L TLe‘COP'T|E PL 9E9'ESI'T| L996 | g BLs'chla TL zoR ses PSI ‘Ue ISTE pis pis F Ds Go gy D's D'S F vis 7 \pis 7 |\pis FF ps FF D's pis F lps F D8 F Jurpua si0wieney “puapraiq uapraig “yueg ayy syung HH 7 TAT H “syue “syuu furcea | PUEPlara ae 0} onp siqap some pie “uoNe[NItD] ‘aonvpnoaty d 4sel jo ‘dn pind Jatpio [pe 1ayyO roo *Ayaadorg “SON IqeVry 1OO Jaye siyolg Jo “sOssY [810 i “ul09 ‘syisodaq. ur ul Ay EEE unuuy reideg Pun’paiunod | wo anp| jos | papuury ELON A oi onp paadesed | yunowy “SIP SIE : Sd ES)oN “‘aoludd jo junowy Jad ayey i v sa0ut[ng |pue salon sa0uvleg a . puv sai0n ‘SLIZOUd GNV TV.LIdVO ‘S.LUSS V TELUTIEV IT ‘LPS ‘uaaWaorda ISTE GNV “UTHWALdaS HLOg “ANAL HLOgG ‘HOUVN ISTE DNIGNA SUTLUVAD ANL Yor ‘SATIVM HLAOS MAN JO ANO'TOO HHL fO SHNVG TVYAAUS AHL AO SLIWOUd GNV 'IVLIdVO WILL JO GNV ‘SHILIIIGVIT GNV SLASSV ADVUAAV AHL AO LOVULSAV PAVIOXG x NEW SOUTH WALES— ABSTRACT OF THE RETURNS OF THE POPULATION IN THE DIFFERENT POLICE DISTRIC™ DISTRICTS BEYOND THE BOUNDARIES OF LOCATION, PENAL SETTLEMENTS DISTRICT. Police District of o Dis- tricts beyond the Commissioners’ Port Philip District. =) Commissioners’ Districts. boundaries of location, Fe Sydney ° Paramatta .. . Liverpool . Campbelltown Stonequarry . Illawarra . Berrima Goulburn . Braidwood Broulee . Queanbeyan . Wasser Windsor Penrith . Hartley Bathurst . Carcoar Wellington Mudgee og Brisbane Water . Newcastle and Ray- mond Terrace Dungog . Maitland iue-a-mee Wollombi and Mc- Donald River . Paterson 0 Patrick’s Plains . Merton and Mus- wellbrook . Scone and Murru- rundi Cassilis Macquarie Wellington Bligh Lachlan Monaroo Murrumbidgee Peel’s River . New England . Clarence River . McLeay River Moreton Bay Norfolk Island . Colonial Vessels County of Bourke Grant . Normanby . Western Port Portland Bay . TOTAL .. . NUMBER OF EACH AGE. MALES. 3 3) B| & . & & ‘Ss 8 | 8 6 = SPS) By Teh Tee || eh ie § 8 lee) lle ee oles lt or rat lcs] Bale a a gel a oP Bs 5 Se ey | Ss gle) . |e S & q 2 a 5 6 g 5 Pls cS 5 2 3 EB = Se | ee eS ey | ee Sr |S = 3 oO >=] Q =] =] Ses ee jes ce |S S12 | 2 BS eS Es || feel ol || Ae PlJaAl/ala |] ae |e |/a/ sp ]a 1106 1977 1882 1849) 11782)1626) 511/1161/1998 284 515) 642) 488 2727) 528) 221| 301) 616 52} 139| 220| 83) 588] 137) 48) 70) 112 108) 179) 214) 145! 952] 176) 66] 110) 184 42) 77| 76| 54| 466] 66| 19) 47] 72 155) 257} 213) 190, 1529] 240) 49| 144] 233 37| 81) 63] 61) 613} 99] 26) 37] 67 109} 206] 150] 134) 1835] 227} 48) 133] 187 15} 42} 52} 61| 540) 89) 15! 28] 48 27) 36] 37] 56) 363) 37/ 7] 27] 32 21] 31] 31| 44) 524) 63) 3] 92] 35 36] 53] 56) 50) 621] 76] 14) 41] 69 238) 449] 504) 308] 1626] 512) 285} 212] 476 125) 260] 232) 176] 1063] 283) 74] 131] 228 23| 39] 41] 44) 327) 48) 12] 95] 45 132} 224] 159] 178] 1604] 244) 26) 97] 208 22) 46] 18] 30) 606] 66) 20] 19] 50 TH 13) 5/22) 0 O57 407i asim 11] 29] 18 25] 397] 75] 7] 24) 26 39] 59] 57) 53] 441] 60) 12) 56] 55 59] 102} 72) 107} 1221] 135] 17] 51] 96 50] 71] 56/110} 771) 991 11) 39] 69 202) 365) 351) 237; 2324] 277{ 52/ 233° 371 37| 63} 65) 52; 429] 97| 15) 41) 78 89] 137) 119] 117) 1246] 120} 15! 123 143 77) 165; 160} 105, 1110) 152} 29) 101] 152 33}, 151, 46) 55) 515) 59] 10 | Al 35| 52] 39] 33) - 642) 63] 5) 38 54 7| 15} 16) 29) 430) 50] 10| 13, 10) 44) 68] 58) 90) 1327] 240] 92) 54) 68 10} 18} 14) 37] 665} 87] 6] 12) 19 14 27] 3! 20) 467| 45] 1! 11} 21 25| 42) 35] 60| 782] 41) 9] 29] 39 36, 90) 65] 96; 1080] 118] 24] 52| 68 42) 47| 35) 63) 958] 97] 16] 34] 55 a ereN SS) — || 52! (33) (1258) 75 6 |e, 11] 23) 23) 51) 934) 56) 5) Je) 17 TU aad) LG |e 5212381029 |e ne ee 12] 20] 21) 30) 308) 47) 5) 17) 25 Bll Gl, 4\eeole e143 eo ees | ali 15] 21} 10) 87} 1722) 189 = 16, 12 242, 384 304 387, 3355 187, 23) 276) 336 13} 24| 22) 45, 445) 47; 2) 16 22 8} 20) 11] 8 408 45 2 10) 16 18} 30, 37/ 68 972 58 7 20) 27 24) 21) 21 53) 865 105) 4 18 24 | | | | | | 37076633 6306 6045 53381 7212 1884 3967 6581 | FEMALES. Ut <> g | a Melts || fe | P=7 a Ila Emlpea lei & &|/o) § |g Passe ve eg eel il EB |e Sic] 38 13 Bis oe lees Ge S| il Sole P/e| = |é a |e | & |e }z 19161861] 6914) 717) ¢ 721| 486] 2082) 331 102| 79) 314| 49 200| 164] 472] 73 62| 36] 189] 16 222/165] 547| 88 70| 53) 173] 31 132] 92] 464! 43 52} 33] 110] 11 331/516 |eemedte nol) 31/018 | esr eto 36| 42) 164! 20 415| 330| 841! 177 198] 128] 550] 87 39] 32} 109] 11 133] 105] 504) 48 yl 10) ES) Gls 77a |e | eG 14} 13 Gil Zi 37| 36] 164) 19 81] 86] 295] 28 55| 42| 153] 28 308] 220] 947] 91 58] 34] 156] 22 113} 86! 406] 31 ng 80| 373] 30 38 18] 141] 10 27| 22] 132] 8} - 12), 3) 339) 2) - 44| 61] 231) 25 Fee oa) 2a 10! 4 eee 27; 22! 125] 9] - 30, 41] 162) 20 99! 21) 133, 8 aa F 3 g5| 4! - 8) 10 57; 4 - im oO! 3x) Oe 11 14) ee 2] — U5 al), - 12} 7 55} 2 342) 327| 1485| 67 16! 27| 105] 6; - gl 12) Aa 16 15! 95) 8) - o 3 a 4) - | 1 5861 4892 19513 2175 ! | Il. NSUS OF THE YEAR 1841. AS DEFINED IN THE GOVERNMENT NOTICE OF 12TH AUGUST, 1840; COMMISSIONERS’ ND EMPLOYED IN THE COLONIAL VESSELS, TAKEN ON THE 2D MARCH, 1841. MARRIED OR SINGLE. CIVIL CONDITION. - TOTALS. MALES, FEMALES. MALES, FEMALES. FREE, BOND. FREE. BOND. 3 : - Ss 5 3} oO ee z e/ 2 | 2 : 2lelz| 2], slElElE = = EI S 2 i -) ° n ° = (>) Ar o go = 2 i= = A 3 = S ee ie ls c= i gS a | 2 : = : z A s Et & ao | 2 5 s 3 Fete | 800) Ons 3 = 2 = 3 aos 2 a | ° se a 2 pe =| S|] 951 a rcs = eae | = | & |e s (37S |e Bl sh] ee ee fs E s c=] 2) =} GC) Ss a 3) eee a ie) << los ir he WS loaa | iS | Sins es ee } ——S ee {4 | } | 4 | 6082! 14651; 5891} 8883) 4001) 10731) 3022) 240/1852 887} 4240} 8836/1023] 48 6} 621) 20733) 14774 1332; 4073} 1338! 3309] 1450; 1722) 1020} 285) 544 384] 1668] 1386) 473] 30] 869) 221) 5405) 4647 nn i) (vs) wo o (So) iss or iy=) o (oo) wo pa i uo for) ive) wo w Ps a (es) wo ws = [Wo] wo - Lao ww [o2) rs i a o @ i=) = a @ for) ieee on for} wo for) ww wo i ee e 91} 472 84] 117 67; 176 83] 73) 15) 149 63] 121) 11) — 6| 563) 201 105; 612 94 111 82} 165; 143) 91) 24) 212 7.6 |e L077) aS | ees 1 717| 205 149) 757} =155| =220) +155) 147) 267) 122) 3) 212] 165) 120) 54) 11 1) 24, 906) 375 924; 2998) 942) 1601) 1625) 494) 1084] 385} 48] 286) 1603} 514/ 318] 31 4) 73) 3922] 2543 579} 1634) 559) 776) 616) 556) 520) 169) 128) 224) 598} 486) 128) 23 ]) 99} 2213) 1335 fol = = i am 1 a = = a on ie) ee — Or a w for i wo e2) or 2 tS) @ ~3 S = ey wo a ww = [2] CS) for) or (Je) rss wo for) > 454; 2113} 461) 639} 507} 598) 596) 355) 44 467| 455) 449) 113) 15] 20) 48] 2567; 1100 96} 712 94| 116 69 160} 197) 118} 4/ 260 70| 112) 22) 3) — 3] 808} 210 44, 308 A4 55 26 94 93) 42) — 97 44 39 gs) ol) — 7) +352 38) 71} -491 64 84 84, 100) 141) 69) 9 159 65 57) 21 1) — 4) 562) 148 1444 625) 132) 151 86] 224) 135) 115! 1) 208 78| 160} 21} 3] 2] 19} 769} 283 138} 731) 131] 150 84 213] 138) 138] 2} 294 84 |e 5163/99/83 | 9} 869} 281 53| 504 38 4] 23 93} 110] 106} 2] 223 18 506 |e et | 557 79 498} 1421) 200) 290) 437) 261) 139) 150) 591/ 341) 148) 205) 98] 10) 28) 71) 1919) 490 79) 758 55 43 35} 138] 293) 128) 9] 934 25 54) 16) — | — 3] 837 98 54) 523 50 45 33] 106] 200! 71) 5) 162 28 59) 7] — 1) — 1] 577 95 124 870| 125] 126) 125| 162| 362) 121| 9| 215 94) 111) 39} 2) — 5] 994) 251 183) 1326) 183) 191) 194) 365) 4521198! 6] 9294! 141] 191] 38) — | — 4| 1509) 374 144) 1114) 129) 152) 147) 281! 354] 164) 35) 277) 110} 130) 32) 2) — 7| 1258) 281 90! 1334 86 81 92) 258) 445) 178] 17| 434 AAS LOL S353 |k— 6| 1424] 167 82) 921 60 52 32] 280) 224) 76) 11} 380 19 73) 15} — | — 5| 1003) 112 40, 303 35 38 30| 118 89] 11] 10 85 23 ANT 2 343 73 65| 378) 68 73 46 115 68] 60) — 154 52 56] 15] 4 —| 4) 443) 141 11} 165 13 11 15 24 | 1) TO) 8 13) 1) —|] — 2} 176 24 459} 1623 56 49 25| 227 O=N1'628)/—— 28 1) | |) 3 203 105 — = — = _ = — he eS = SS) S| | |) Oe) = 1311} 3571) 1266) 1572) 323! 3987| 333] 61) 98 80| 255) 2520} 58) 2 1) 9] 4882) 2838 120, 478! 107 85 18} 476} 61| 1] 36 6 ig) MEG) BD) = || |] 598} 192 57| 445 56 39 26| 266] 191) — | 12 7 21 68/5 |e 1/502} 95 107) 1083 98 83 45| 604| 363) 50} 5] 123 Bm) dsl: By) 4) | Tg) aed go) 1012 92 66 35| 942 86, 12] 4 23 pay) alsiy) Sn 5) =) 5 |] Te) aS | | | 26007 14819 | | 30745, 157605843 6658 11343, 14630, 22158 3637 316 979 1838 87298 43558 | | ABSTRACT OF T X1IL NEW SOUTH WALEs—opysuS OF THE YEAR 1841. HE RETURNS OF THE POPULATION IN THE DIFFERENT POLICE pisrricrs, as DEFINED IN THE GOVERNMENT NOTICE oF 121TH aucust, 1840; commissioners’ DISTRICTS BEYOND THE BOUNDARIES OF LOCATION, PENAL SETTLEMENTS, xyD EMPLOYED IN THE COLONIAL VESSELS, TAKEN ON THE 2D MARCH, 1841. NUMBER OF EACH AGE, MARRIED OR SINGLE. CIVIL CONDITION. MALES. FEMALES, TOTALS. MALES, FEMALES, MALES. FEMALES. FREE, BOND. FREE, BOND. a 6 silive G || a a4 z 3 led a . Bw > S = gia] es |= die] s/s gs |e s| 8 DISTRICT. BN te s/i| a |e i ll a Sy] alzle| 8 13 g/5)a) 8 |# . dais & eee al rs = = = az = = GOST 18 061'8 GB GEST GSSSE COL | 6P6'9T 06 = = = = = = = = OPFSI LS £98°¢ 8T TEs GEB'8T LPL | 800°6T 08 = = = = = = = = C9C CT cg 1ss‘p GI ogg 985'LE 89I | Tes‘st GL = = = = = = —) = GOS‘SL GL EPO i 6E81 98106 69 80L'9 9 = = = = = = = = £168 8g coc’ ST 8681 10S‘FT £9 G08'e IL = = = = = a = = 8L9'9 OV 160'F GI LOST O@OLT 09 6SL‘E Il = = = = == a == = 861'9 &% £90'L 96 981 “suo Ty, “ON, *SUOT, “ON, "suo y, ‘ON “suo y, “ON “suo T, “ON, “suOT, ‘ON, *SsuOT, “ON “suo y, "ON, “UVOA *so}e}G USTOIOT ‘soqeyg poy ‘purfeozy MONT | ‘spurysy vag YyNog | ‘seTuojoD YsIWIg *STVLOL ‘solloysty OT, “UlRILIG, JIID OT, OL OL oL OL OL + ‘ATUAISOTONI ‘OPS OL 9S8T UVAA AHL WOU ‘SGUVMLOO GIUALNA STASSAA AO ADVNNOL GNV UAAWON AHL JO NUALAY ‘dHONILNOQ— JITAX APPENDIX. 473 Xe Val RETURN OF WOOL EXPORTED FROM THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES, FROM 1822 To 1840. VALUE, VALUE, As entered in As entered in YEAR, QUANTITY. | the Returns of YEAR, QUANTITY. | the Returns of Exports. Exports. Ibs. £ lbs. £ 1822 172,880 Not known 1832 1,515,156 73,559 1823 198,240 _— 1833 1,734,203 103,692 1824 275,560 — 1834 2,246,933 213,628 1825 411,600 _— 1835 3,893,927 299,587 1826 552,960 48,384 1836 3,693,241 369,324 1827 — 407,116 24,306 1837 4,448,796 332,166 1828 834,343 40,851 1838 5,749,376 405,977 1829 1,005,333 63,555 1839 7,213,584 442,504 1830 899,750 34,907 1840 8,610,775 566,112 1831 1,401,284 75,979 RETURN OF AMOUNT OF AUCTION DUTY, AT 14 PER CENT., PAID INTO THE COLONIAL TREASURY, FROM 1824 To 1840, INCLUSIVELY. YEAR. AMOUNT OF DUTY. YEAR. AMOUNT OF DUTY. £ Ss. d. £ Ss. d 1924 328 Sie ait 1833 1,540 oullans 1825 555 Soleo 1834 2,327 Gi i210 1826 516 dq | 2 1835 3135 | 16 | 2 1827 62 | is | 113 1836 4697 | 11 1828 1,325 | 10 | 7% 1837 4,820 3 | im 1829 1,228 @ | ae 1838 any | a) a 1830 1493, | 18 || 38 1839 “e700 1G ial eae 1831 1,353 ab oh 1840 18,701 2 | 10 1832 TVA Spel ets ae roran>| £8,689 | 12 | - 43 TOTAT a E49 (0G0Nma ae TO Mn aed VOL. Il. 119 A474 APPENDIX. XCINXE RETURN OF THE AMOUNTS RECEIVED FROM THE SALE OF CROWN LANDS, FROM 1824 To 1840, INCLUSIVELY. AMOUNT. £ & d. 94956 | 1 | 1 41,844 9 1 80,784 | 14 6 126,458 16 0 120,427 | 0 5 116,324] 18 | 11 152,962 16 4 316,626 | 7 5 980,385 3 9 YEAR. AMOUNT. YEAR, £ Ss: d. 1824 21k) || ily 93 1833 1825 5,048 | 14 10 1834 1826 2,596 2 6 1835 1827 2,274 | 11 7 1836 1828 5,004 | 19 2 1837 1829 25710) 15 0 1838 1830 943 5 10 1839 1831 2,597 1 10 1840 1832 12,509 | 13 10 TOTAL 34,465 2 | 4} TOTAL XX ESTIMATED QUANTITY OF LAND IN CULTIVATION, EXCLUSIVE OF GARDENS AND ORCHARDS, ON 31ST DEc. 1840. CROPS. WHEAT.| MAIZE. BARLEY. | oats. | RYE. | uanzer. | POTATOES. TOBACCO. SOWwK GRASSES. | | Acres. | Acres.| Acres. |Acres.| Acres. | Acres. | Acres, Acres. Acres. | 74,133) 24,966] 5,144 | 5,453) 609 115 2,594 381 12,721 PRODUCE. | | SOWN WHEAT, | MAIZE. | BARLEY. | OATS. RYE. | MILLET. | POTATOES. | TOBACCO. |gRassEs | (HAY.) Bushels. | Bushels. | Bushels. | Bushels. | Bushels. Bushels.| Tons. |Cwt.| Tons. (Cwt.| Tons. | | | 1,116,814] 777,947 | 105,389 | 66,020 | 8,863 3,338 |11,050] 15 | 215 | — 21,329 APPENDIX. A75 X XI. U.S. Ship Peacock, Sydney Cove, New South Wales, December 21st, 1839. Sir, Having thoroughly examined this ship at different times, and par- ticularly at this place, I would respectfully submit the following report of her condition. First, that the sheer-streak is quite rotten in many places, as well as the gun and berth-deck water-ways; and from the frequent calking the gun and spar-decks have undergone, they have become much worn, and quite leaky, particularly the spar-deck ; also, the stanchions supporting the bulwark on the spar-deck are very much decayed, and with the exception of three or four of them, are unsafe, and not able to support the rail and boats attached to it, under any thing more than ordinary circumstances. Iam, Sir, yours respectfully, (Signed) Jonas D1pBLe, Carpenter. Witiram L. Hupson, Esa., Commanding U. 8. Ship Peacock. U.S. Ship Peacock, Sydney, New South Wales, December 22d, 1839. Sir, I have delayed reporting in writing the defective state of the Pea- cock until the present time, with a full knowledge it would have been utterly impossible to have completed the necessary repairs at this port in sufficient time for our Antarctic cruise. I feel, too, that the govern- ment and whole country are anticipating results from that quarter, and are under the full belief that all the ships composing this squad- ron were thoroughly overhauled, and amply prepared to encounter every kind of weather. I have no wish at present to undeceive them, but feel it my duty to state to you on the present occasion, that the Peacock’s sheer-streak, to which the channels are bolted and ports hung, is perfectly decayed, fore and aft, and that all the stanchions of the upper-deck bulwarks, are either rotten, or in an advanced state of decay. Against these defects, however, I feel it my duty to contend, 476 APPENDIX. without anticipating any thing but favourable results, but at the same time prepared for the worst that may occur. Yours, respectfully, (Signed) Wm. L. Hupson. CapTaIN CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. XeXGle RETURN OF TIMBER EXPORTED, FROM THE YEAR 1830 To 1840, INCLUSIVELY. Blue Gun, Pine, and | o Cedar. ethos ninban: Treenails. YEAR. VALUE. Quantity. Quantity. Number. & 1830 368,830 } 179,403 , 23,959 5,218 1831 580,393 416,857 | 3 24,316 8,401 1832 418,930 | 3 233,653 | © 186,831 6,132 1833 1,086,437 | 5 147,170 | 328,503 13,153 1834 899,492 | = 30,065 }-3 212,467 7,941 1835 907,921 as 145,628 | e 178,969 10,489 1836 1,409,467 |‘ = |106 Logs 3,778 | 3. 35,094 14,611 1837 116,828} 3, 18823] a 62,989 14,463 1838 699,066 | F 9,000 73,450 6,382 1839 729,001 823 Deals, 15 Logs 40,588 8,815 1840 1,250,786 § 151,500 4,350 20,971 2 Superficial Feet. RETURN OF OIL, ETC., EXPORTED, FROM THE YEAR 1830 To 1840, INCLUSIVELY. Sperm Whale. Black Whale.) Whalebone. | Seal Skins. YEAR. VALUE. Tuns. Tuns. Tons. | Cwt. | No. £ 1830 983 98 9 16 9,720 59,471 1831 1,571 505 28 5 4,424 95,969 1832 2,491 695 43 6 1,415 147,409 1833 3,048 418 _ — 1,890 146,855 1834 2,760 975 43 15 890 157,334 1835 2,898 1,159 112 — 641 180,349 1836 1,682 1,149 79 — 386 140,220 1837 2,559 1,565 Ut 8 107 183,122 1838 1,891 3,055 74 | — 3 Cases 197,644 1839 1,578 1,229 134 | 14 7 Cases 172,315 1840 1,854 4,297 PN |) A7A 224,144 | APPENDIX. A777 XOX Ii. STATEMENT OF THE INTRODUCTION AND PROGRESS OF THE BREED OF FINE-WOOLLED SHEEP IN NEW SOUTH WALES, DELIVERED AT THE RIGHT HON. LORD HOBART’S OFFICE, 26TH JULY, 1803. Tue samples of wool brought from New South Wales having ex- cited the particular attention of the merchants and principal English manufacturers, Captain MacArthur considers it his duty respectfully to represent to His Majesty’s ministers, that he has found, from an experience of many years, the climate of New South Wales is pecu- liarly adapted to the increase of fine-woolled sheep; and that, from the unlimited extent of luxuriant pastures with which that country abounds, millions of those valuable animals may be raised in a few years, with but little other expense than the hire of a few shepherds. The specimens of wool that Captam MacArthur has with him, have been inspected by the best judges of wool in this kingdom; and they are of opinion that it possesses a softness superior to many of the wools of Spain; and that it certainly is equal, in every valuable property, to the very best that is to be obtained from thence. The sheep producing this fine wool are of the Spanish kind, sent originally from Holland to the Cape of Good Hope, and taken from thence to Port Jackson. Captain MacArthur being persuaded that the propagation of those animals would be of the utmost consequence to this country, pro- cured, in 1797, three rams and five ewes: and he has since had the satisfaction to see them rapidly increase, their fleeces augment in weight, and the wool very visibly improve in quality. When Cap- tain MacArthur left Port Jackson in 1801, the heaviest fleece that had then been shorn weighed only three pounds and a half; but he has received reports of 1802, from which he learns that the fleeces of his sheep were increased to five pounds each ;* and that the wool is finer and softer than the wool of the preceding year. The fleece of one of the sheep originally imported from the Cape of Good Hope, has been valued here at four shillings and sixpence per pound; and a * In the grease. The average weight of the fleeces of fine-woolled sheep in New South Wales, washed, is two and a half pounds. VOL. Il. 120 478 APPENDIX. fleece of the same kind bred in New South Wales is estimated at six shillings a pound. Being once in possession of this valuable breed, and having ascer- tained that they improved in that climate, he became anxious to extend them as much as possible; he therefore crossed all the mixed- breed ewes of which his flocks were composed, with Spanish rams. The lambs produced from this cross were much improved; but when they were again crossed, the change far exceeded his most sanguine expectations. In four crosses, he is of opinion, no distinction will be perceptible between the pure and the mixed breed. As a proof of the extraordinary and rapid improvement of his flocks, Captain MacArthur has exhibited the fleece of a coarse-woolled ewe, that has been valued at ninepence a pound; and the fleece of her lamb, begotten by a Spanish ram, which is allowed to be worth three shillings a pound. Captain MacArthur has now about four thousand sheep, amongst which there are no rams but of the Spanish breed. He calculates that they will, with proper care, double themselves every two years and a half; and that in twenty years they will be so increased as to produce as much fine wool as is now imported from Spain and other countries, at an annual expense of £1,800,000 sterling. ‘To make the principle perfectly plain upon which Captain MacArthur founds this expectation, he begs to state that half his flock has been raised from thirty ewes purchased in 1793, out of a ship from India, and from about eight or ten Spanish and Irish sheep purchased since. The other half of his flock were obtained in 1801, by purchases from an officer who had raised them in the same time, and from about the same number of ewes that Captain MacArthur commenced with. This statement proves that the sheep have hitherto multiplied more rapidly than it is calculated they will do in future; but this is attri- buted to the first ewes being of a more prolific kind than the Spanish sheep are found to be; for since Captain MacArthur has directed his attention to that breed, he has observed the ewes do not so often produce double lambs. As a further confirmation of the principle of increase that Captain MacArthur has endeavoured to establish, and which he is positive time will prove to be correct, he would refer to the general returns transmitted from New South Wales. In 1796, (since when not one hundred sheep have been imported), one thousand five hundred and thirty-one were returned as the public and private stock of the colony. APPENDIX. 479 In 1801, six thousand seven hundred and fifty-seven were returned ; and although between those periods all the males have been killed as soon as they became fit, yet there is a surplus over the calculation of six hundred and thirty-three. Captain MacArthur is so convinced of the practicability of supply- ing this country with any quantity of fine wool it may require, that he is earnestly solicitous to prosecute this, as it appears to him, im- portant object; and on his return to New South Wales, to devote his whole attention to accelerate its complete attainment. All the risk attendant on the undertaking he will cheerfully bear—he will require no pecuniary aid—and all the encouragement he humbly solicits, is the protection of government, permission to occupy a sufficient tract of unoccupied lands to feed his flocks, and the indulgence of selecting from amongst the convicts, such men for shepherds, as may, from their previous occupations, know something of the business. (Signed) Joun MacArruor. London, 26th July, 1808. XOX AVE U.S. Flag-Ship Vincennes, New Zealand, Bay of Islands, April 5th, 1840. My pear Sir, I need not tell you how much I feel interested in your cruise. From the interest you took in the outfit of our expedition, I am sure you well know the interest it excites, and how much this feeling is heightened by a knowledge on my part of what you have undertaken, and have to go through. This prompts me to a desire to be useful to you if possible, and to give you my experience of the last season among the ice, whither you are bound. Your cruise will be an arduous one, no matter how you may be enlightened on your course ; but you have so much knowledge of the ice, and the manner of treating it, that it appears almost presumptuous in me to sit down to give you any hints relative to it. But, believing as I do, that the ice of the Antarctic is of a totally different character from that of the Arctic, | venture to offer you a few hints that may be useful to you in your undertaking; and although my instructions are binding upon me relative to discoveries, I am, nevertheless aware that Iam acting as my government would order, if they could have 480 APPENDIX. anticipated the case, knowing how deeply it feels the liberal assistance and great interest evinced by all the societies and distinguished men of Great Britain, to promote and aid this, our first undertaking in the great cause of science and usefulness; and I must add the pleasure it gives to me personally, to be able to return, though in a small degree, the creat obligation I myself feel under to you, and many others, the promoters of your undertaking. Winps.—The winds for the first fortnight of our time, to the east- ward of longitude 140° E., were from the northward and westward, light generally, accompanied occasionally with clear weather for hours, and again with dense fogs of short duration, with a long swell from the same quarter. After passing longitude 140° E., or to the westward of it, we experienced fine weather, with southeast winds and occasional snow- squalls, lasting but ten or fifteen minutes, and a dry, healthy atmosphere. The barometer, during our stay on the coast, was always indicative of wind by its depression, and was a true guide. Its mean standing was 28in. The temperature surprised me: we seldom, if ever, had it above 30°, even in the sun at mid-day, and I do not think that three times it was found above 35°. Gales come on very suddenly, and are always attended with snow, sleet, and thick fogs, rendering it extremely hazardous; for one must be found, when they do come, more or less surrounded with ice- islands. They sometimes last for thirty-six hours. After they set in, you may calculate that they will blow strong for at least half that time. ‘The nearer you are to the land, the more violent they are, though not of such long duration. Fine weather usually precedes them, and we found them to happen, and the weather to be more changeable near the full and change, although I am no believer in the lunar influences upon the weather. Currents.—During the whole of our stay along the icy coast, we found no perceptible current by the reckoning and current log. During a gale of wind I was induced to believe that some existed, from the short sea that was formed, thinking there was more than was to be expected. Tvzdes on such an extent of coast there undoubtedly must be, but of little strength, or we should have perceived them. In many of the icy bays we were stationary for a sufficient time to perceive them if they had been of any magnitude, and where the current was repeatedly tried. APPENDIX. A81 The winds have their effect upon the loose drift-ice, or that which is detached from the icy barrier. Owing to a change of wind from southeast to north, with a fresh breeze, the Peacock became embayed, and the ice forced in upon her, which brought about the accident. The northerly winds are always accompanied with a heavy swell, and her escape is attributable to a rare exercise of good seamanship and perseverance. If Captain Hudson’s ship had been as strong as adamant itself, he is of opinion she would have been ground to atoms by a longer exposure ; her stem was abraded to within an inch and a half of the wood-ends. There are places in which the barrier is within the floe-ice several miles. I enclose you the mean temperature during the summer months. You will see there is but little chance of the ice melting or disap- pearing, as from accounts frequently takes place in the Arctic Ocean. Your time, being unlimited, will allow you to wait some days in a situation to make experiments. I frequently found myself so closely beset that I thought it next to impossible to escape, and if the wind had not been extremely con- stant in its direction, | should have been shut up or much injured ; as it was, I escaped with scarcely a scratch, although we took some heavy thumps. The charts will show you the tracks and state of the ice. It was constructed as I went on, and the ice-islands laid down by carefully- kept diagrams by the officer of the deck during his watch. This I found gave me more confidence in proceeding, and facilities in case of having to return. Maenetic Pote.—I consider we have approached very near to the pole. Our dip was 87° 30’S., and the compasses on the ice very sluggish ; this was in longitude 147° 30’ E., and latitude 67° 04’ 8. Our variation, as accurately as it could be observed on the ice, we made 12° 30’ EK. It was difficult to get a good observation, on account of the sluggishness of our compasses. About one hundred miles to the westward, we crossed the magnetic meridian. The pole, without giving you accurate deductions, I think my ob- servations will place in about latitude 70° S., and longitude 140° E. On the meridian of 140° E., you will find a small bay, partly formed by ice-islands and rocks, which I have named Piner’s Bay, and I think among the rocks you may find a snug little harbour. I was driven out of the bay by a gale of wind; sounding about one and VOL. II. 121 482 APPENDIX. a half miles from the shore in thirty fathoms. The icebergs being aground, form good shelters; but I was too much exposed to venture to remain, and my object was to trace the land and the icy barrier, which I have done, as you will see it laid down on my chart. We had delightful and clear weather ten days or a fortnight along the coast, with the wind at from southeast to south-southwest; the two latter points particularly. The drift-ice is in large pieces, so large as to give a ship an awkward thump; but when I found it tolerably open I have run through it to get to clear water, and in hopes of making the land, but our progress was soon stopped by the firm barrier, impenetrable, through whick there is no passing. I am of opinion that there is little movement of the ice during the season. Strong gales may change its position a trifle, but I think not materially. The only prospect of nearing the land is through a sea well studded with large icebergs, nearly thirty or forty miles in width; and I generally found that we got nearer to the shore in those places than elsewhere. One thing I must tell you, as respects filimg your water: you will sometimes find a pond of delicious water on the top of an old iceberg, frozen over, but on cutting through it you will see a supply sufficient for a navy. It will save you fuel, and discom- fort and cold to you, your vessels, and their crews. I was very fortunate in the weather the latter part of the time; and indeed altogether I was scarcely a day without some observation, (except during the gales, of which we had three, occupying about eight days,) and generally half a dozen. My time for six weeks was passed on deck, and having all day- light, I of course had constant employment, and with the many assistants, I could make rapid progress; and you will find that no opportunity ought to be lost in this navigation, if one is to do any thing. One’s ship is in constant danger, and the Vincennes, a first- class sloop of seven hundred and eighty tons, it requires all the foresight and activity one is possessed of to look out for her. I consider that I have had a most providential escape ; and if this ship had not been enabled to “do every thing but talk,” I should not have been where [ now am; but she had inspired me with so much confidence, among the coral reefs last summer, that I could put full faith in her doing her duty. I must refer you to the chart, on which I have noted remarks, variations, &c. I should have mentioned that in 1838 and 1839 I went south in APPENDIX. 483 the brig Porpoise, in order to trace Palmer’s Land on its eastern side, (but too late for any trial to reach high latitudes,) and hoping that the lateness of the season would enable me to run some distance along it. I got within three miles of the coast, and saw it trending to the south-southeast about thirty miles; but it was so blocked up with ice as to render it impossible to get through. I have little doubt myself, in favourable seasons, Weddell’s track may be followed, not- withstanding what the Frenchman may say, there being no land to which the ice is attached; and that the ice in those parts changes very much, the currents being exceedingly strong, as I myself wit- nessed. I could not afford the time to be frozen up, as my other duties were and are paramount to passing the winter in such a situation. But you are differently situated, and I should advise you, by all means, to try to penetrate between longitude 35° and 45° W. Tam, &c., CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. To Caprain James C. Ross, Commanding H. B. M. Ships Erebus and Terror. XOXO U. 8. Ship Vincennes, Sydney Cove, Dec. 23d, 1839. Sir, The following instructions will claim your particular attention during our contemplated Antarctic Cruise. ist. It cannot be too strongly impressed upon you the necessity to use every means in your power to avoid a separation, as the lives of those entrusted to your particular care, and those comprising the squadron, may be jeoparded by it. 2d. The most careful attention must be given by you to the health and comfort of your crew, and the most economical care and expen- diture of your stores and provisions. The greatest attention to the cleanliness and airing of the vessels, and the drying of the clothes and bedding, to avoid all dampness and foul air, are likewise essential. In the event of your being frozen up or detained by the ice, your responsibilities will be great, and every precaution must be taken to insure your safety. You may rest assured that every exertion will be made to relieve you at the earliest possible day. A84 APPENDIX. I now give you a short sketch of what I deem to be the principal object of our cruise towards the Antarctic Circle: first, to reach as high a southern latitude as can be attained, without hazarding the safety of your vessel and crew; and last, to make all the observations that my former instructions have pointed out, including the dip and intensity. In the event of parting company, you will rendezvous, first, at Macquarie Island, if it should occur before reaching its latitude, where you will remain forty-eight hours, off and on; thence proceed to the Emerald Isle, waiting on and off thirty-six hours, and from thence to the south as far as the ice will permit, and continue cruis- ing along its borders, between the longitude of 160° E. and 105° E., until the Ist of March, at which period it is deemed the season will become too far advanced to proceed south with any chance of success. On your return, you will proceed to the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, where you will await my arrival, or find orders with the American consul, resident there. If the Lord Auckland Group should lay in your path on your return, you will find a secure harbour in that of Sarah’s Bosom, in latitude 50° 38’ S., longitude 166° 16’ E. On your return, you will vary your route as much as possible, or as the weather and state of your vessel will permit. In case you should not be able to reach the Bay of Islands, prior to the 25th of March, you will thence make for the island of Tonga- taboo, Friendly Group, where you will find me or orders directing your further movements. (If no intelligence before the 15th of April, you will then proceed to the Feejee Group of islands, Harbour of Takanora, or Sandalwood Bay, and there continue to employ yourself, making the various surveys directed in the copy of the instructions.) Leave letters where you may stop, and place signal No. 2 on a conspicuous spot; No. 1 will represent the Vincennes, No. 3 the Porpoise, and No. 4 the Flying-Fish. In the event of your penetrating the ice, with the prospect of a clear sea before you, you will steer to the westward, bearing in mind that the only prospect of again clearing it is on the route you first followed, or that supposed to have been taken by Weddell, between the longitude of 35° and 49° W. On clearing it, you will proceed to carry out the foregoing instruc- tions, to make the appointed rendezvous with the least possible delay. (It is my intention, if 1 am not detained by ice, to reach the harbour APPENDIX. 485 of Sandalwood Bay, in the Feejee Group, in April, and after exami- ning those islands, to proceed to the Sandwich Islands for provisions early in July. I state this that you may govern yourself accordingly, in the event of your not being able to meet me or the Peacock at any of the rendezvous pointed out. Should you fall in with the Peacock, Captain Hudson will give you the necessary instructions. ) I am, very respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) CuarLes WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. The foregoing instructions were sent to Captain Hudson. ‘To Lieutenants-Commandant Ringgold and Pinkney, without the clause in parenthesis. U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, December 29th, 1839. Sir, The following observations and duties will be attended to on board the Flying-Fish, under your command, during her present cruise to the Antarctic Ocean : 1st. You will keep a daily journal of every occurrence of interest. 2d. Your route will be daily laid down upon the skeleton chart; also, the position of all land, islands of ice, &c., which you may fall in with. Astronomical bearings will be taken when the weather will permit. 3d. You will note in your journal the variation of the compass, daily, sketches of refractions, and appearances of ice-islands and formations. 4th. You will obtain, if possible, and preserve, any stones, speci- mens of earth, &c., from the ice, and note the appearances of any halos, aurora australis, &c. 5th. The observations, &c., required in the General Order of the 25th August, 1838, will be attended to, when practicable, excepting those of the barometer and hygrometer, and the observations of the masthead. I am, very respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. To Lieut. Com. PINKNEY, U.S. Schooner Flying-Fish. VOL. Il. 122 APPENDIX. XXVI. BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS DURING THE GALE OF WIND EXPERIENCED BY U. S. SHIP VINCENNES, JAN. 28TH, 29TH, 30TH, 31ST, AND FEB. LST AND 2D. DATE. HOUR. BAROMETER. REMARKS, 1840. JAN, 28TH, 66 oe 10 30 29°50 in. 29°40 29°24 29°10 28°90 28°79 28°68 28°68 28°59 28°57 28°57 28°68 28°67 28-78 29°16 29°10 29°04 29°00 28°98 28°91 28°90 28:90 28°88 28°82 28°80 28-80 28:76 28°76 28°74 Light snow; 8. E. by S. fresh. Wind fresh from 8, E. by S., cloudy. Wind quite fresh S. E. byS., light snow. Wind blowing a gale from S. E., snow. Weather was pleasant the remainder of 29th. At 8 4. m. of the 30th, the Barometer rose to 29°16 in., and remained at that point several hours. APPENDIX. 487 X X VI.—ConrTinueEb. BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS DURING THE GALE OF WIND EXPERIENCED BY U. S. SHIP VINCENNES, JAN. 28TH, 29TH, 30TH, 31ST, AND FEB. 1ST AND 2D. DATE. HOUR. BAROMETER. HOUR. BAROMETER. 1840. A. M. P. M. JAN. 31st, 1 28°72 in. 1 28°60 in. Ge 2 28°72 2 28°60 cc 3 28°73 3 28-60 GS 4 28°70 4 28°60 GS 5 28°70 5 28°60 OS 6 6 28°60 ee 7 30 28°68 7 28°60 ce 8 8 28.66 a 9 28°62 9 28°70 G 10 28°60 10 28°70 ce 11 28°60 11 28°70 ee 12 28°60 12 28°70 FEB. Ist, 2 28°72 £0 3 28:73 3 28-90 o 4 28:73 ce 5 28°73 ee 9 28°76 9 29°00 FEB. 2D, 3 29-12 2 29°31 ce 9 29°25 3 29°31 se 11 29°30 7 29°35 OS 12 29°32 9 29°37 £¢ 10 30 29-300 ce 12 29°210 488 APPENDIX. XX Vale U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, January 31st, 1840. Sir, It becomes my duty, in consequence of the report of the assistant- surgeons of this ship (a copy of which is enclosed), relative to the health and condition of the crew of this ship, to restore you to duty for their benefit, and to obtain all the medical advice in my power to enable me to carry out the instructions of the government. You will, after due examination and consideration, relative to the health and condition of the crew, report to me, in writing, your opinion in regard to the same. I am, very respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) CuarLEs WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. Dr. Enwarp GILcuRIsT, Acting Surgeon, Vincennes. U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, January 31st, 1840. Sir, I have received your letter of this date, restoring me to duty, enclosing a report of the assistant-surgeons of this ship, and directing me, after due examination and consultation relative to the health and condition of the crew, to report to you in writing my opinion in regard to the same. In obedience to that order, I respectfully report that, in my opinion, the health of the crew is materially affected by the severe fatigue, want of sleep, and exposure to the weather, to which they have lately been subjected ; that a continuance of these hardships, even for a very short period, will entirely disqualify a great number of men for their duty ; and that the necessary attention to the health of the crew, and their future efficiency and usefulness, demand the immediate return of the ship to a mild climate. I am, very respectfully, Epwarp GILcHRIST, Acting Surgeon. Cartes WILKES, Esa., Commanding Exploring Expedition. APPENDIX. 489 U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, January 31st, 1840. Sir, In answer to your letter of this date, enclosing the report of the medical officers on the present state of the health of the crew; and requesting the opinion of the ward-room officers, as to the expe-. diency of pushing farther south under the present circumstances, we would state, that, in our opinion, it would be as well to hold on until to-morrow at meridian, in order, should the weather then prove more favourable, to attempt making the recently discovered land at another point; but that on a material increase of the sick-list, or continuance of the present bad weather beyond the above period, we should run to the northward. We are, very respectfully, Your obedient servants, (Signed) OVERTON Carr, 1st Lieutenant. A. Lupiow Case, JosepH A. UNDERWOOD, Tneutenants. Epmunp H. De Haven, SamMvuet R. Knox, Acting Masters. To Cuar.es WILKES, Esa., Commanding Exploring Expedition. U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, January 31st, 1840. Sir, In answer to your communication of to-day, addressed to the ward- room officers, calling upon them for their opinion with regard to the practicability of our prosecuting the desirable researches in these latitudes, I am of opinion, with due regard to the report of the medical officers, which you have submitted for our perusal, that it is very desirable to ascertain the extent of the recently discovered land, by another attempt to the westward; provided, of course, this object can be attained without further endangering the health of the crew. Very respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) JAMES ALDEN. CuarLes WILKES, Esa., Commanding Exploring Expedition. VOL. II. 123 490 APPENDIX. U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, January 31st, 1840. Sir, In answer to your letter, with the report of the medical officers enclosed, requesting the opinion of the ward-room officers of this ship, as to the expediency under the present circumstances of prose- cuting our discoveries south at this time, I beg leave to state, that in my opinion the report of all the medical officers of the ship, as to the reduced condition of the crew, would be a sufficient reason for putting back; and, in addition, I would state other reasons which occur to me. We have been almost surrounded with drift-ice and ice-islands for the last twenty-three days, and coasting along the barrier of field-ice, which has rendered it impossible to penetrate further south in this vicinity; and, although gratifymg it would be to land upon the Antarctic Continent, I am not aware that any advantages to be derived from it would be commensurate for the dangers it would be necessary to incur; and if the discovery of new land in these regions is important, I consider it equally so that every precaution be taken to communicate the same to others. Farther, in my opinion, the continuance of the severe gale which we have encountered for the last five days, accompanied with sleet, hail, and snow, and the necessity of keeping all hands on the watch, owing to the thick weather, &c., and difficulty of navigating among ice, makes it not only most dangerous, but, if necessary to be con- tinued in, will render the watch officers and crew unfit for the arduous duties now and hereafter required of them, at a time when the ship and rigging are enveloped in ice. In fact, I am of opinion, that the future operations should not be hazarded by encountering dangers and risks to be run, under all the circumstances, greater than I have ever encountered in the course of seven years’ sea service. In expressing, however, finally and respectfully, my opinions, I most cheerfully yield to those of more experience and skill, if they do not concur with mine. I am, sir, very respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) R. R. Wapron, Purser, U. S. Navy. CHARLES WILKES, Esa., Commanding Exploring Expedition. APPENDIX. 49 U.S. Ship Vincennes, At Sea, January 31st, 1840. Sir, In reply to your communication of this date, addressed to the ward-room officers of this ship, I would state, that I think that it would be advisable to remain in this vicinity at least two days longer, and, if possible, get farther information respecting the recently dis- covered land. At the expiration of the above mentioned time, if the stormy weather we have experienced should continue, or the number of sick be increased, I think it would be expedient to bear up to the northward. In expressing this opinion, I am sensible of the hardship and danger to which the officers and men are exposed, but I am also prepared to share the same with them in any manner you may dictate. Respectfully, yours, (Signed) JARED ELLioTT. CuarLes WILKES, Esq., Commanding Exploring Expedition. 492 APPENDIX XOXO VAT: BAROMETER AND DAILY MEAN OF TEMPERATURE OF AIR AND WATER, DURING THE CRUISE OF THE U. S. SHIP VINCENNES, NEAR THE ANTARC- TIC CIRCLE, IN JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1840. DATE, BAROM, AIR. WATER. DATE, BAROM. AIR. WATER. Jan. 11| 29°36 in.| 32°45° | 31-29° |¥en.1 | 28:85 in.| 30:75° | 29-50° 12 | 28-97 32-45 30-00 2 | 29:26 32-45 29-41 13 | 28-87 32-45 30°45 3-| 28-74 | 32-04 31°33 14 | 29:17 32°37 31:74 4 | 28:50 32°80 32°75 15 | 28-87 32°95 31°16 5 | 29:23 32°58 32°62 16 | 28-68 33-95 30°50 6 | 29-21 31:17 32°75 17 | 28:84 30°95 31-20 7 | 29:00 31-00 31-90 18 | 28-87 3252 31°75 8 | 2914 32°16 31°75 19 | 28-77 32-48 31-26 9 | 29-19 32°18 31°50 20 | 28-91 31°70 32-04 10 | 29:08 31-83 31°75 21 | 29-02 3456 31-09 11 | 29-08 30°12 30-00 22 | 29:03 25°18 30°63 12 | 2915 29-00 30°03 23 | 29:04 26°16 30-45 13 | 29-08 27°75 30°20 24 | 2915 26°37 30°75 14 | 29:15 25°29 29-90 25 | 29-22 23-04 28-45 15 | 29-28 27-00 30°80 26 | 29:06 25°69 29-00 16 | 29-33 26°58 30-20 27 | 29:29 26-40 28-91 17 | 29:16 28°79 30-00 28 | 29:31 25°91 28-87 18 | 28-91 28°58 30-00 29 | 23-88 28-75 29-00 19 | 28-76 30°12 30°75 30 | 29-00 26-04 23-75 20 | 28-97 28-00 30-62 31 | 28-66 | 29-00 29-00 21 | 29-06 29-08 31°70 22 | 28:89 32-22 32-50 | 23 35-25 35-45 24 | 36-08 34:82 APPENDIX. 493 EXONS. [ Copy. ] U.S. Ship Peacock, Sydney, New South Wales, March 3d, 1840. SIR, I have the honour to report the arrival of the Peacock at this port, for the purpose of making such few repairs as have become necessary, preparatory to the further prosecution of the objects of the Expedition, and avail myself of the occasion to say, that in our recent adventures south, we fell in with a barrier of ice in the latitude of 65° S., and longitude 159° E., and had followed its trendings as far as 67° S., longitude 150° E. On Sunday, January 19th, while standing into a bay of ice, in latitude 66° 31’ S., and longitude 153° 40’ E., we made (what we believed to be) land to the southward and westward. It was seen towering above and beyond some large icebergs, that were from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in height. We endeavoured to work up for this land, which presented the appear- ance of an immense mass of snow, apparently forming a vast amphi- theatre, with two distinct ridges or elevations throughout its extent. After working up until midnight through detached portions of ice, we reached the barrier at the head of the bay, and were compelled to give up any further attempt to near it, (what we believed to be land,) and passed out of the bay again, which was some twenty miles in extent, through drift-ice, into a more open space for pursuing our course to the southward and westward along the barrier. On the 23d of January we made, beyond the barrier, which was thickly studded with bergs and islands of ice, (what we believed it to be,) high land, at least so far as terra firma can be distinguished where every thing is covered with snow, and worked into a bay for a nearer and more minute examination. ‘The sea-water had been dis- coloured for some days, but no bottom obtained by soundings; in the bay, however, it changed to a dark dull green, and gave every indi- cation that we were on soundings, and not far from land. The result confirmed the appearances: we obtained bottom in three hundred and twenty fathoms, of slate-coloured mud, and the lead brought up with it a piece of stone, about an inch in length, of nearly VOL. II. 124 494 APPENDIX. the same colour, while the lower part of the lead showed a fresh and deep indentation, as though it had struck on a rock. Dip observa- tions were made on the ice with Robinson’s and Lloyd’s needles; the former gave 86:10°, the latter 86:23°. While ascertaining the dip, a large king-penguin was captured on the ice, and brought to the ship; to add to our collections, in his stomach were found thirty-two pebbles of various sizes, which ap- peared to have been very recently obtained, and afforded additional evidence of our immediate proximity to land. While further pursuing the object of our search in this vicinity, on the morning of the 24th, and endeavouring to clear some ice ahead of us, the ship made a stern-board, and came in contact with a large piece of ice, which carried away one of the wheel-ropes, wrenched the neck of the rudder, and rendered it useless. We immediately commenced working ship with the sails and ice- anchors into a more open sea. In this we were successful for a time, until an increase of wind, and a change in its direction, brought in upon us masses of ice for miles in extent, which completely beset the ship, finished the work of destruction on our rudder, and forced us into the immediate vicinity of an ice-island some seven or eight miles in extent, with an elevation equalling our topgallant-masthead, and its upper portion inclining towards the ship. In this situation we furled all but the fore-and-aft sails, and hung by our ice-anchors. Fortunately, between us and a portion of this island, lay a large piece of ice, one end of which held us by the counter, until forced beyond it by the pressing masses of ice outside, which started our anchors, and set us stern on to the island, carrying away our spanker-boom and stern-davits, and forcing the starboard quarter-deck bulwarks in end some three or four inches, jamming a signal-gun hard and fast in the gangway, and breaking off all the bulwark stanchions on that side of the quarter-deck. We took this occasion to cant her, with the jib, into a narrow channel alongside the island, and with the help of other sails, passed by a portion of it without further injury to our spars, until an opportunity presented of forcing her into a small opening in the ice, with the head towards the sea. Our rudder, which we unshipped and got m upon deck while wedged in the ice, came in over the side in two pieces, the head and neck entirely broken off, with the two midship pintles, and we shortly afterwards found the upper and lower braces gone from the stern-post. APPENDIX. 495 Towards midnight the sea was increasing, accompanied with snow, with every indication of a gale from seaward ; and the ice, with which we were continually in contact, or actually jammed, more formidable in character, rapidly accumulating outside of us, and forming a compact mass. I found, as we were nearing the open sea, that we had been carried so far to leeward by the ice, as to be in great danger of taking up our last residence in the barrier, amongst bergs and islands of ice. ‘There was, therefore, no choice left but to force her out, or grind and thump the ship to pieces in the attempt. Aided by a kind Providence, we reached an open space on the morning of the 25th, after having beat off the gripe of the ship, &c., and at meridian the carpenters had so far secured our rudder that it was again shipped, in the two remaining braces left on the stern-post. We were yet surrounded by ice and icebergs, in a bay some thirty miles in extent, from which no outlet could be seen from the mast- head. At midnight, however, we found a passage, about half a mile in width, between some bergs and field-ice. On the morning of the 26th, having reached a partially clear sea, and thoroughly turned over in my mind the state of the ship, with the head of the rudder gone, hanging by two braces only, and in such a state we could hardly hope to have it answer its purpose, through the bois- terous weather with which we should have to contend before reaching the nearest port, and its utter unfitness for further cruising amongst icebergs and near ice, through the foggy, thick weather, and frequent snows to which those latitudes are subject, and when rapid evolutions are often necessary, in which the rudder must perform its part,—with the ship considerably strained, her starboard spar-deck bulwarks gone, as far as the gangway, the eripe off and stern mutilated, and the further fact before me, that the other vessels of the squadron were ranging over the same longitude, with directions to leave on the 1st of March for surveying operations in the north; that the ship’s bottom would have to be examined, and repairs made before leaving another port, (which would occupy, with all the facilities this quarter of the world affords, at least four weeks,) durmg which time the services of this ship would be lost in surveying the Feejee, &c., I determined to proceed at once to Sydney, expedite as much as possible the repairs of the ship, and be ready at the earliest moment to co-operate with the rest of the squadron. The Vincennes was seen by us in the distance on the 19th, and the brig Porpoise on the 23d of January. 496 APPENDIX. On the night of the 7th, and morning of the 8th of February, we had frequent and unusually brilliant displays of the aurora australis, one of which made its first appearance in the southwest portion of the horizon, but soon diffused its beams of light from east to west, throwing them up to a concentrated point in the zenith, where they were attended with continued quick flashes, resembling heat light- ning, and extending over about a third part of the heavens. The rays or beams of light composing this magnificent spectacle, varied in colour from a light orange to tints of pale red, assuming in their changes hues I should in vain attempt to describe. During intervals of the brightest flashes in the zenith, however, they lost their distinctive outlines, and mingled in the glow of bright twilight which nearly overspread the heavens. This exhibition was to us so perfectly unique and strongly marked in character, as to excite the attention of those on board most indif- ferent to such phenomena, and called forth from all exclamations of surprise and pleasure. The ship’s compasses were minutely examined on this occasion, but exhibited no symptoms of being affected by the presence of the aurora. ‘The motion of the ship, however, from the effect of the sea at the time, would have rendered any change imperceptible, if the disturbing cause had not produced an oscillation of the needle beyond four or five degrees. During the aurora, a single squall of light hail passed over the ship. After a rough and boisterous passage north, we anchored within the Heads at Sydney, on the night of the 21st of February. The officers and crew have all enjoyed good health; indeed, we have been for some days past without a man on the sick-list, and it affords me great pleasure again to bear testimony to the zeal and efficiency of the officers and men in the performance of their various duties. I feel quite confident we shall have completed our repairs, and be ready to leave Sydney, in about three weeks. T am, sir, most respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) Wituiam L. Hopson, Commander. To J. K. Pautnine, Ese., Secretary of the Navy. APPENDIX. 497 U.S. Ship Peacock, Sydney, New South Wales, March 12th, 1840. Sir, The foregoing report was prepared for the Honourable Secretary of the Navy, immediately after my arrival in port, but no conveyance having offered, I take leave to address it to you as commander of the squadron ; availing myself of the occasion to add, that we fell in with the first ice, on our passage south, in the latitude of 61° 32’ S., longi- tude 161° E., and made the barrier on the 15th of January, in the latitude of 65° 53’ S., longitude 159° E., and followed its trendings as far as 67° S., and 150° E. Our compasses were at the time exceedingly sluggish, and gave no evidence of the ship changing her position, unless kept in continual agitation by shaking. Immediately after my arrival at this port, 1 commenced the repairs of the Peacock, which are now so far advanced that I shall be ready for such duties as you may assign me by the 25th of the present month. The Peacock, as you have seen, has been considerably strained ; and we have found on examination while repairing, that after her gripe was beaten off, the ice had chafed the stem to within one inch and a half of the wood-ends of the planking. I trust my efforts to carry out your orders, and the course I have pursued in returning to Sydney, and expediting the repairs of the ship, have been such as to meet your approbation, as well as that of the Honourable Secretary of the Navy. I am, sir, yours, respectfully, (Signed) Witiiam L. Hupson, Commander. CHARLES WILKES, Esq., Commanding Exploring Expedition. [ Copy. ] U.S. Brig Porpoise, Bay of Islands, New Zealand, March 31st, 1840. Sir, I have great gratification in reporting my arrival at this place on the night of the 26th instant, all in good health; and respectfully VOL. II. 125 498 APPENDIX. report the following results, as occurring since the period of sepa- rating from you. The 12th of January was consumed in diligent search and endea- vours to regain: failing to do so, I proceeded westerly. At 10>. m., the day following, I entered an inlet formed by the barrier, for the purpose of making a close examination and experimenting on dip. On a near approach to the margin, numbers of Phoca proboscide were seen reposing: I succeeded in taking a pair, the skins of which were subsequently placed on board the Peacock. Very lofty ridges of ice, and the loom usual over high land, were visible along the southern horizon, over the barrier. ‘The compass at the time being very sluggish, showing the brig’s head to the north, when her head was correctly south. From appearances to the southward, with the numerous Phoca proboscide, I was strongly impressed with the belief of the close approach to land. On the 15th the water was much discoloured, casting in one hundred and fifty fathoms without success. Dense fogs and snow prevented further examination. I fell in and communicated with the Peacock on the evening of the 15th, having her in sight on the 21st and 22d. On the evening of the 16th, strong appearances of land again arose, in corroboration of which I insert an extract from my journal, as well as the remarks from the log-book. EXTRACT FROM JOURNAL. “ At 6" 30" p. m. I went aloft to take a look, the weather being clear, horizon good, and clouds lofty. I heard the noise of a pen- guin; soon after, one was seen very near the brig, with a large seal to windward. After reaching masthead, I saw over the field of ice, an object, large, dark, and rounding, resembling a mountain in the distance. The icebergs all were bright and brilliant, and in great contrast. ‘“‘T watched for an hour to see if the sun in his decline would change the colour of the object by a difference of rays: it remained the same, with a white cloud above, similar to those generally hovering over high land; at sunset it remained the same. I took the bearing accurately, intending to examine it closely as soon as I got a breeze. 1 am strongly of the opinion it is an island, surrounded by immense fields of ice now in sight.” APPENDIX, 499 EXTRACT FROM LOG. “At 7 p. m., discovered what was supposed to be an island, bearing south-by-east, a great deal of field-ice in sight. (Signed) “J. H. Norrs.” 17th, the indications were again noticed, corroborating those of the day preceding. From the 19th to the 21st, I was not in sight of the barrier, owing to adverse winds and thick weather. On the afternoon of the last date, I closed in again. On the 22d, 4 a. M., appearances of land again to the southward and eastward, at the time passing an iceberg with dark veins, and dusty appearances, exciting again confi- dent hopes of soon making positive discoveries. On the 23d, I attained the parallel of 66° 49’ S., 151° 24’ E., by observation, having reached the southern extreme of an extensive gulf, studded with islands of ice, and far in the distance to the south- ward high and lofty bergs were identified and entangled in the main barrier, rendering our advancement one step further impossible. I put about, tried dip, and retraced my steps, exchanging colours with Peacock at 2" 30™ p. m., then on her way in. After separating from you on the 27th, I proceeded westward, keeping the barrier close to, reluctantly meeting insuperable obstacles in every effort to pass the Antarctic Circle. On the 28th, I experienced a heavy gale from southeast of thirty- six hours, with snow and dense fog, rendering my situation dangerous in the extreme, from the vast numbers of icebergs, and quantities of floe and drift-ice, surrounding the brig at the time. On the afternoon of the 30th, at 3° 45™, a ship was discovered ahead ; at 3" 50" another appeared in company ; being in latitude 64° 52’ 30” S., and longitude 135° 27’ KE. I determined to speak them, supposing them to be the Vincennes and Peacock; at 4" made them out to be standing to the northward, under easy sail, and discovered them to be strangers; at 4" 30" hoisted our colours, knowing that an expedition under Captain Ross was expected in these seas. I took them to be his ships, and stood ready to cheer the discoverer of the North Magnetic Pole. At 4°50", having gained considerably upon them, and being within I suppose a mile and a half, the strangers showed French colours, the leeward and sternmost displaying a broad pennant; and concluded they were the French discovery ships under Captain D’Urville. 500 APPENDIX. Desirous of speaking, and exchanging the usual and customary compliments incident to naval life, I closed with them, designing to pass within hail under the flag-ship’s stern. When within short musket-shot, my intentions too evident to excite a doubt, so far from a reciprocity being evinced, I saw, with surprise, sail made on board the flag-ship. Without a moment’s delay, I hauled down my colours and bore upon my course. On the morning of the 31st, at 8 a. m., I found myself com- pletely embayed in an immense gulf, with a field of table-ice one hundred and fifty feet high, bearing to the northward, and from east to west so far as eye could discern. After consuming the day in trending to windward, I passed out along its eastern margin without accident. In my progress and examinations, I obtained frequent specimens of sandstone, granite, and red clay, from the field and floe-ice. I gained the meridian of 105° E., on the 12th of February, latitude 64° 54’ S.; the weather was at intervals misty, affording little oppor- tunity for observation; many strong indications of land presented themselves. The barrier assumed a dark discoloured appearance, with numerous stratified veins of earth and rocks, and with lofty and conical peaks, remotely placed along its southern portion; the im- pression of land, surrounded and covered by field-ice, was often strongly urged. Penguins and seals were seen, and in my anxiety to land and convince my mind, I was embayed in a narrow and dan- gerous inlet, which, with the aid of a strong southeast wind, was cleared in safety ere night closed in. The wind easterly and the weather becoming clear, the occasion seemed so auspicious, that I was induced to extend my researches a day or two, believing it would meet your approbation. As I advanced westward, the marks of the approach to land were becoming too plain to admit a doubt. ‘The constant and increasing noise of penguins and seals, the dark and discoloured aspect of the ocean, with frequent huge masses of black frozen earth identified therewith, strongly impressed me with the belief that a positive result would arise, in the event of a possibility to advance a few miles further south. On the afternoon of the 13th, I landed and extracted from an im- mense mass of black earth identified with the barrier, some hundreds of yards back from the margin, specimens of rock corresponding to those previously obtained. At sunset of the 13th, one hundred and APP HN DIX 501 fifty-one icebergs, all assuming a discoloured and earthy appearance, were counted from deck. At6 a.m. of the 14th, the wind having set in from the northwest, I stood back along the barrier on my return, hauling in to the south- ward, and making it within the meridians of 120° and 130° E., being a portion which escaped my personal observation, arising from incle- ment weather. T had reached the meridian of 100° 07’ 40” E., latitude 64° 15’ S. I attempted to close with the barrier on the 24th, in order to procure a supply of ice, being reduced to a half-gallon allowance of water ; after several unsuccessful attempts, owing to rough and fogey weather, I concluded to proceed north, in conformity with my instructions, and at 2 p.m. bore up im a gale from northwest; the wind prevailing heavy from that quarter gradually carried me near the Lord Auck- land Isles, passing the last iceberg in latitude 55° 24’ S., longitude 148° 37’ E. I availed myself of your suggestion,=-put in and anchored on the night of the 7th of March in the harbour of Sarah’s Bosom. I procured a supply of wood and water, and sailed again on the after- noon of the 10th. The sketch of the island in my possession, though not entirely correct, is sufficiently so to guide a vessel safely to the anchorage. I proceeded to this place, passing to the eastward of New Zealand,—strong northeast winds prolonging the passage. I spoke the American whale-ship Mary and Martha, Coffin master, of Plymouth, Massachusetts, off Cook’s Straits, on the night of the 17th instant: twenty-seven months out; twenty-two hundred barrels of oil; reported at least one hundred ships engaged on the east coast in the fisheries. The weather during the cruise has been attended with great variety, and sudden transitions. The great anxiety I felt to attain a high southern parallel, and obtain convincing proofs of the existence of land from the indications presented, added to the ardour of the officers and crew, often involved us in situations, alike interesting, critical, and dangerous, attributing our escapes without myury to the too plain guidance of the watchful hand of Providence. Among the most pleasing reflections are those of the perfect ex- emption from sickness and disease,—not a serious case occurring during the whole period, and not a symptom of incipient scurvy. I have avoided all unnecessary exposure, affording every convenience VOL. II. 126 502 APPENDIX. and comfort to the crew, ever keeping in mind, and rigidly adhering to, your sanitary regulations. I cannot sufficiently express the satisfaction I feel in reporting the very exemplary conduct of the crew; a universal desire to perform their several duties was evinced, from the eldest to the youngest. I beg leave to recommend them in the strongest terms to your notice and consideration. To the officers I return my thanks: they were ever attentive and unremitting in their duties, greatly contributing to the gratifying and safe termination of the cruise. I feel great pleasure in speaking in high terms of them, and feel assured they will receive from you the merit which they deserve. The observations resulting from the cruise, together with the currents, soundings, &c., are minutely and correctly placed upon the chart accompanying, which indicates the track of our researches along the Antarctic Circle. I have the honour to be, Very respectfully, Your obedient servant, (Signed) CapwaLapEeR RinGcoup, Lieut. Com. U. S. Navy. To CuarLes WILKES, Esa., Commanding Exploring Expedition. KOXOXG: [ Copy. ] Sir, In reply to your letter of yesterday, I have to inform you that Captain William Hobson, R. N., arrived here on the 29th January, ult., in H. B. M. ship Herald, and that on the following day the two proclamations now enclosed were made. During the next week meetings with some of the chiefs were held by Captain Hobson, when the treaty (of which I have forwarded you a copy) was signed by a few chiefs. Subsequently Captain Hobson and suite visited Hokianga and the ‘Thames, and obtained a few signatures at either place; hitherto these are the only proceedings which have taken place rela- tive to the cession of any rights, by the chiefs of New Zealand, to the British crown. APPENDIX. 503 Referring to the above, the other apparent measures taken by Cap- tain Hobson to establish the British authority here, are, the holding a court of sessions at Kororarika, which is in active operation, having a strong police force under its control; the formation of a General Post for New Zealand, and the appointment of various government officers for New Zealand, by His Excellency the Governor of New South Wales. It is, however, to be remarked, that no laws relative to the mode or form of government intended to be pursued in this colony, have as yet been published. I have the honour to be, &c., (Signed) James R. CLENDON, U.S. Consul. PROCLAMATION. Victoria, Queen of England, with her affectionate remembrance to the chiefs and tribes of New Zealand, desires to point out to them their chieftainships in these lands; and that they may keep in peace and live in comfort, thinks it right to send an English chief to advise with the natives of New Zealand, that they may accept the govern- ment of the Queen over all their land and islands. Because there will be thousands of the Queen’s subjects to reside in the lands, and they are coming. The Queen is desirous of establishing a government, that all the evils now upon the natives from the English living in idleness and lawlessness may be removed. Now the Queen is pleased to send me, William Hobson, Captain, Royal Navy, as governor of all the islands of New Zealand, which will at another time be given to the Queen. The Queen says to the collection of the tribes of New Zealand, and all other tribes of New Zealand, these are the laws that we have spoken of. First. That the chiefs at the assembly, and those that were not at the assembly, hereby give up entirely to the Queen for ever the government of all their land. Secondly. The Queen of England agrees and consents to secure to all the tribes, chiefs, and all men in New Zealand, and the head chiefs, all their rights in their lands, villages, and other property. 504 APPENDIX But the chiefs are to give to the Queen the right of purchasing all the lands that the owners are willing to sell, at the price they choose to put on it, and the Queen says she will pay for it herself. Thirdly. This is the consent to the government of the Queen. The Queen will protect all the natives of New Zealand, and secure to them all the rights and privileges of the people of England. (Signed) Witiiam Hopson, Consul and Lieutenant-Governor. We the chiefs at the collection of the tribes of New Zealand, assembled at Waitanga, are the chiefs of New Zealand, and see the truth of these words and accept them, and therefore we put our names and marks thereto. Done at Waitanga on the 6th day of February, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty. TRANSLATION OF THE TREATY. Her Mayesry, Vicroria, Queen of England, in her gracious consi- deration for the chiefs and people of New Zealand, and her desire to preserve to them their lands and to maintain peace and order amongst them, has been pleased to appoint an officer to treat with them for the cession of their country, and of the islands adjacent. The Queen seeing that many of Her Majesty’s subjects have already settled in this country, and are constantly arriving, and that it is desirable for the protection of the natives to establish a govern- ment amongst them. Her Majesty has accordingly been pleased to appoint me, William Hobson, a Captain in the Royal Navy, to be governor of such parts of New Zealand as may be now or hereafter ceded to Her Majesty, and proposes to the chiefs of the confederation of the united tribes of New Zealand, and the other chiefs, to agree to the following articles : Art. I. The chiefs of the confederation of the united tribes, and the other chiefs who have not joimed the confederation, cede to the Queen of England for ever the entire sovereignty of the country. Art. II. The Queen of England confirms and guarantees to the chiefs and tribes, and to all the people of New Zealand, the possession of their lands, dwellings, and all their property. But the chiefs of the confederation and the other chiefs grant to the Queen the exclu- APPENDIX. 505 sive right of purchasing such lands as the proprietors thereof may be disposed to sell, at such prices as shall be agreed upon between them and the persons appointed by the Queen to purchase from them. Art. TIT. In return for the cession of the sovereignty to the Queen, the people of New Zealand shall be protected by the Queen of England, and the rights and privileges of British subjects shall be granted to them. (Signed) Witiiam Hopson, Consul and Lieutenant-Governor. Now we the chiefs of the confederation of the united tribes of New Zealand, being assembled at Waitanga, and we the other chiefs of New Zealand having understood the meaning of these articles, accept of them and agree to them all. In witness whereof our names or marks are affixed. Done at Waitanga the 6th day of February, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty. Here follow signatures of chiefs. END OF THE SECOND VOLUME. SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARIES iii 3 9088 00559 7034 GorOor mn raat PEbeli es er Seen em sees perareriehrercery rire eiire ww wey War yer! Seed ye bok w he ty A TUE. bhRO bee hh tb Sr AL Mn HoT Woe CaS ye ad YY eR ar a tere ar eg ee DW oe Pia Seva ie eke pe eee ep bat dike : “= Jom AY ns web et eee Urs eNn teeth eee lk b bbe ach tT en eh betes Cok ela y! Cee ete ones Peery be Pee pes ka hel eb ht ‘ ‘Sie Wika bdibeh F Pererecenrer aris Se Wet Tp by hh ote eels ie aeanen yo wirsmariics Sonera. ere . DS aeheh es 6 eet Sah bom Cerra eeepaur 4 wise ha hhti = Mab FR bere paT® CroNet) dese ttt 3 VARS Vicker cncrel ts ew enrerenvare bik wey irate S Serer gry) 1 eee : Garierecs irs wort y we eer tear ety Seu EE (ha) EeRM rhs ee are be . wera US PALT MCP RUNES MA CHRESEC OCONEE nM Chih beeen ASSN R ait Boel Fe a LEO RCE oT nN eh m cere Peat ay Nitityaeytie Atk a at A COG + Sch Pe hte Web here Cowie eh . eee Mb bbe eb s Feb Bb RANG RRA Oakes Ob bt bw NMR Bibel Ach ey TAlenay geet: pum dais hn bee ALD S40b 4 Ot ee ee. eb eis ei aket tat ee COOAINRGT Te ete rn ae ity ar Woe Nb hh Sek Fook ot dee tb tite bie bh > be) be UA eI od cae oan SCOT aC Se Cove Wr tr a ee eh er tits SO 4b tee Beene bly rh drctokes ODIO Bh hah | ae he Tepe teat ise tabby bs bn & op hth ek Cauca mecwracyny sees eS eye > th Obie bee RMD ES She bh Wok BD bey b Seenrneg etic . . Teele eb ct bt th hee be nO ae Se KoA ibn k tee beck POAEME RE ORE ED bh Cie y ab ld bao » GOs Biers Ue ea AAR De hb ben Oi elah Bibs AD Aten f TS ey tances uy PSPS ei CBr eer earetenru yearns alte ay Jie ease bre ees a ey Tet t lA eon eee h eh ED BAY pork hhh mip hee e Cre eon er ea Ube O thy: Bh hL bee te Tv beer teen eh iWihs teem erheteb em ve Sehee et t Ob hp het Lea bie Crh Sate Mire tries aianyeerar iy Mabey) ehh EEE NG ENT bets Ns a fh PhP PADS oh Ohl erento yt ae he Nar pari Tyne arb e Bob bos She tA Fe hia aN) Strona A elwriasyiacy tok itence ie TOES nie AY he BD Le bth Pye \ i LS ERED Che bibs: tb vebebtrh d by T > an Rig iee thon feta Eb eer tein ved Lede DOS EEEER ED SERS SMILE EE EBC E Se THLE Lae het poy eaee Jeet tetle Onk tits teh OAT ee ease bbb oe 1k bn 3 Seed SOIL Ab ae bh-* | (ah bbb Bib beh . bse Le eh bd Gh we 4 RU scat i ENRICO PO RUC ie Mersey rs DAN DART Gobi Do er bet bee *! pre Gin ttans dag ely gy eh roe th a * orhh eee Tes ee ey! ae Se PAE Ct, eh eenby be Sin nen + he sb b s ree PbO AERTS EER PRT 2 Oey +4 oir ae eta a Whe eh tp rch ithe babe ttt wh tke Mri HLTA oe ! VAAL AG AS SCA HRC BO Pt eabeb aE ote take God ik Et a . mh ney By i ar a Severn) Fase ACE CTE eT eH CM PEN R a) Chi) fei vt Hai aes REPEL brett me Phe ERTS * o ot CHAT NG ‘ en Sarah mek boy ne otaeg SS RNR CAL A BA hs i on Ps A See's Mie wet t, ts * Act ad nets t ; ivy tiy Sec ematiniter tnt ace 4c es mentee names hie ae ek Bre han SOMO AE KERRY sti bs? 7 Sietead nga tt ee Note veka LEME E NO AAR AEFI eS Tete Le Feit th ANNs ° prea setae: vies hee . Nie FA ap Rh S unt a: A rery) Fastest tata tong oor cae yore ts aia Rei H Reheat bs Rena toecela $ vk DOR Bob OO eh bei Hite Neate on ee ¥, Sin ek Web ke EE ee ee i dl Aa WAIT Ese be ee YM SRE Moke bee het are hy ely aah ri 3 us sates OURAN ao w tewt i ‘ ee heya e ti, Shit Spd bys sites tle ais ce : ' i. Py arabe na Lei at * ae HOLE NEY EE Olen lee Wirt ke bee @ fea eee , HK: } ‘ nua There ate, LA ee oe be 0 ia thre AGA hd (oC. yaa eras oe ipteee Scblates teejtontes te a tenet nats canes stent eel wibyrn ne ht monks ¢ fey revbberkyebhat lth bu keke Fe Sie ites CN Cea tee eK ge et tees Pheby bet panei bee SeUiua beh stet faerie & Goats Vecen an eh) che startin ae Bede ne dneie hyo a Ui eb Rees Cele UE tree ia me f SA a rice By Ue bolt 9b bebe be tee bbe : Wile ere t bb Ge eh ree ebe4 Seb hdres eet Werk serie bee me Ret Heme) Swylieternedne Mitta erases’ x op eraceseeee oe as bebe hated Sires Shy a SB yy reeset bes ee he be ie Di, eh BD bs bb HP iba Veiled ke heb be oe Patten S eek obeys be ecto bieye rhe Me ab sree ed ease haem ase bebe Ce Le OL bree ee ee tobe ae oy et rb h hectsb Bel shve te) deb pd Tote ati CTE een be Ce pee hehe ere RO ee rel ene By ie eS nrinterns® F A eh bem eee b te eye’ siattinn nate ie’ Wilviptise getlbca ert bo ¢ ePaper rai yt Wk a a a her eee bet be both et bbe etd Un * oy AAT te fy, vel spt Pee eae Rhee ttshiae reich be & : eres eter ys , Ree aD Oh ele bee ebebve tie el ele Niet ftsd Boric Veleew te esper aay pirated ind a rechebntee tie cof arte bg fn mem tetty pmece nny douse etd see SEAS EE heya wend see Sarit tans tahteneeloban Sahat note) ipoesa nye te ee a hee! wee Co " PERN SER AS Pyiesy aged a Raney epiree eee hehe ee el wrk ey Cinna Pa bh batt bb Ce eae poten ie) aa) eration Kas > st tee Mates nie Sedan eh th ey rere eet OSE 8 preety neo sear rprirecysn's wre reese lath nb . Ppdibe dh bed Chvbleiel se ba bebe Oy A104 ep are ett ‘ weve inne ek eine ee ete eek ee RPL Eth ee ele lin areke c See: a ete’ pram meeeena {Be eh ates AN RR a re Ca ree AIR yyy Lheatee oe Gee “ nee Ci eee ce eke y te wea Rell wtmiri hah 8 tie etch! 2 hb i see Bate ee DUG Utas ee Tease eee ge eer h as ee) Meeker ey bch aes t Peni oe Wang Nes ee Gants Ceres err Re erect ri tare Sela eh eee venta cress Bence mentee fad if ~( te Na) pee eh Ree ey AEE, genre eee Salyers inane ipteswince Wey on a er ergretec prea sy weecne ie eee Pe ene eee em me ee women ter ta bree (ie ee hae t Cer tet bb Pern rhe e ‘ene So seateen erat b rare och Sale eee renee eee pane bres somata 4 ta eet ase Sf eeSaisen mate iTalent mie eebesy bepress Listihes conte ieel Weir e hy VUEN teeta SCoo err ee Cieerereaar evekere tents eee ‘nbs Serer catrels eactlecs bre hee, eee em eset es eee Wheelie ewes hw hele et Ware hese eer ee ~ eh tober elie Neng os sete anpet to atoeerruse ie ry setts eran oat ion tan Scorers rts fevesties tes SA, cepa pecan | bike a rere eee eee ee Tee singe Se alien Motte ol aie ee ned erent ea yee fe giecws hiner tipree¥se mE AAT ty ens Wavebce ste as See ere! Pewee ei eek em be eae eee ee Vereen