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WORK.
A
NARRATIVE
OF THE
VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFORMED BY
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
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THE FIRST, IN THE YEARS 1768, 1769, 1770, AND 1771.
THE SECOND, [N THE YEARS 1772, 1773, 1774, AND 1775.
THE THIRD, IN THE YEARS 1776, 1777, 1778, AND 1779.
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NARRATIVE
OF THE
VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFORMED BY
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
WITH AN
ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE,
DURING THE PREVIOUS AND INTERVENING PERIODS.
BY
A. KIPPIS, D.D. F.R.S. and S.A.j
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
CHISWICK :
PRINTED BY C. AND C. WHITTINGHAM. SOLD BY THOMAS TEGG, 73, CHEAPSIDE;
N. HAILES, PICCADILLY ;
BOWDERY AND KIRBY, OXFORD STREET, IONDON!
AND RICHARD GRIFFIN AND CO. GLASGOW.
1826.
vs
i
4
TO
THE KING.
Sir,
1 esteem myself highly honoured in being per- mitted to dedicate and present my Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain James Cook to your Majesty. It was owing to your Majesty's royal patronage and bounty, that this illustrious navigator was enabled to execute those vast un- dertakings, and to make those extraordinary dis- coveries, which have contributed so much to the reputation of the British empire, and have re- flected such peculiar glory on your Majesty's reign. Without your Majesty's munificence and encouragement, the world would have remained destitute of that immense light which has been thrown on geography, navigation, and the most important sciences. To your Majesty, therefore, a work like the present is with particular pro- priety addressed.
It is impossible, on this occasion, to avoid ex- tending my thoughts to the other noble instances in which your Majesty's liberal protection of science and literature has been displayed. Your Majesty began your reign in a career so glorious to princes : and wonderful has been the increase of knowledge and taste in this country. The im- provements in philosophical science, and parti- cularly in astronomy ; the exertions of experi- mental and chemical inquiry, the advancement of natural history, the progress and perfection of the polite arts, and the valuable compositions that have been produced in every department of learning, have corresponded with your Majesty's
i'dl
VI DEDICATION.
gracious wishes and encouragement, and have rendered the name of Britain famous in every quarter of the globe. If there be any persons who, in these respects, would depreciate the pre- sent times, in comparison with those which have preceded them, it may safely be asserted, that such persons have not duly attended to the his- tory of literature. The course of my studies has enabled me to speak with some confidence on the subject ; and to say, that your Majesty's reign is eminently distinguished by one of the greatest glories that can belong to a monarch.
Knowledge and virtue constitute the chief hap- piness of a nation : and it is devoutly to be wished that the virtue of this country were equal to its knowledge. If it be not so, this does not arise from the want of an illustrious example in the person of your Majesty, and that of your royal Consort. The pattern which is set by the King and Queen of Great Britain, of those qualities which are the truest ornaments and felicities of life, affords a strong incitement to the imitation of the same excellences ; and cannot fail of con- tributing to the more extensive prevalence of that moral conduct on which the welfare of society so greatly depends.
That your Majesty may possess every felicity in your royal Person and Family, and enjoy a long and prosperous reign, over an enlightened, a free, and a happy people, is the sincere and ardent prayer of,
Sir, Your Majesty's most faithful, and most obedient,
subject and servant,
Andrew Kippis.
London, June 13, 1788.
PREFACE.
Although I have often appeared before the public as a writer, I never did it with so much diffidence and anxiety as on the present occasion. This arises from the peculiar nature of the work in which I have now engaged. A Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain Cook must prin- cipally consist of the voyages and discoveries he made, and the. difficulties and dangers to which he was exposed. The private incidents concern- ing him, though collected with the utmost dili- gence, can never compare, either in number or importance, with his public transactions. His public transactions are the things that mark the man, that display his mind and his character; and, therefore, they are the grand objects to which the attention of his biographer must be directed. However, the right conduct of this business is a point of no small difficulty and embarrassment. The question will frequently arise, How far the detail should be extended ? There is a danger, on the one hand, of being carried to an undue length, and of enlarging, more than is needful, on facts which maybe thought already sufficiently known ; and, on the other hand, of giving such a jejune account, and such a slight enumeration of impor- tant events, as shall disappoint the wishes and expectations of the reader. Of the two extremes, the last seems to be that which should most be avoided ; for, unless what Captain Cook per- formed, and what he encountered, be related
Vlll PREFACE.
somewhat at large, his Life and Actions would be imperfectly represented to the world. The pro- per medium appears to be, to bring forward the things in which he was personally concerned, and to pass slightly over other matters. Even here it is scarcely possible, nor would it be desirable, to avoid the introduction of some of the most striking circumstances which relate to the new countries and inhabitants that were visited by our great navigator ; since these constitute a part of the knowledge and benefit derived from his under- takings. Whether I have been so happy as to preserve the due medium, I presume not to deter- mine. I have been anxious to do it, without al- ways being able fully to satisfy my own mind that I have succeeded ; on which account I shall not be surprised if different opinions should be formed on the subject. In that case, all that I can offer in my own defence will be, that I have acted to the best of my judgment. At any rate, I flatter myself with the hope of having presented to the public a work not wholly uninteresting or unen- tertaining. Those who are best acquainted with Captain Cook's expeditions, may be pleased with reviewing them in a more compendious form, and with having his actions placed in a closer point of view, in consequence of their being divested of the minute nautical, and other details, which were essentially necessary in the voyages at large. As to those persons, if there be any, who have hitherto obtained but an imperfect knowledge of what was done and discovered by this illustrious man, they will not be offended with the length of the following narrative.
In various respects, new information will be found in the present performance ; and other things, which were less perfectly known before, are set in a clearer and fuller light. This, I trust,
PREFACE. IX
will appear in the first, third, fifth, and seventh chapters. It may be observed, likewise, that the fresh matter now communicated is of the most authentic kind, and derived from the most re- spectable sources. My obligations of this nature are, indeed, very great, and call for my warmest gratitude. The dates and facts relative to Cap- tain Cook's different promotions are taken from the books of the Admiralty, by the direction of the noble lord who is at the head of that Board, and the favour of Mr. Stephens. I embrace with pleasure this opportunity of mentioning, that, in the course of my life, I have experienced, in se- veral instances, Lord Howe's condescending and favourable attention. To Mr. Stephens I am in- debted for other communications besides those which concern the times of Captain Cook's pre- ferments, and for his general readiness in forward- ing the design of the present work. The Earl of Sandwich, the great patron of our navigator, and the principal mover in his mighty undertakings, has honoured me with some important informa- tion concerning him, especially with regard to the circumstances which preceded his last voyage. To Sir Hugh Palliser's zeal for the memory of his friend I stand particularly obliged. From a large communication, with which he was so good as to favour me, I have derived very material intelligence, as will appear in the course of the narrative, and especially in the first chapter. In the same chapter are some facts which I received from Admiral Graves, through the hands of the Rev. Dr. Douglas, now Bishop of Carlisle, (whose admirable Introduction to the Voyage to the Pa- cific Ocean must be of the most essential service to every writer of the Life of Captain Cook). The Captain's amiable and worthy Widow, who is held in just esteem by all his friends, has given me an
CONTENTS.
VOL. II.
Page CHAP. IV. continued.
Narrative of Captain Cook's second Voyage
round the World 1
CHAP. V.
Account of Captain Cook during the Period be- tween his second and third Voyage 35
CHAP. VI.
Narrative of Captain Cook's third Voyage to the Period of his Death 50
CHAP. VII.
Character of Captain Cook. — Effects of his Voy- ages^— Testimonies of Applause. — Commemora- tions of his Services. — Regard paid to his Fa- mily.— Conclusion 166
ArPENDix . . , 195
OL,COL(,„N
A
NARRATIVELY R^!
or the rj rv
VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFORMED BY
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
CHAP. I.
Account of Captain Cook, previous to his first Voyage round the World.
Captain- James Cook had no claim to distinction on account of the lustre of his birth, or the dignity of his ancestors. His father, James Cook, who from his dia- lect is supposed to have been a Northumbrian, was in the humble station of a servant in husbandry, and mar- ried a woman of the same rank with himself, whose christian name was Grace. Both of them were noted in their neighbourhood for their honesty, sobriety, and diligence. They first lived at a v illage called Morton, and then removed to Marton, another village in the North-riding of Yorkshire, situated in the high road from Gisborough, in Cleveland, to Stockton upon 1 ees, in the countv of Durham, at the distance of six miles from each of these towns. At Marton, Captain Cook was born, on the 27th of October, 172S * ; and, agree-
* The mud house in which Captain Cook drew his first breath is pulled down, and no vestiges of it are now remain- ing.
.1. E
2 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK
ably to the custom of the vicar of the parish, whose practice it was to baptize infants soon after their birth, he was baptized on the 3d of November following. He was one of nine children, all of whom are now dead, excepting a daughter, who married a fisherman at Red- car. The first rudiments of young Cook's education were received by him at Marton, where he was taught to read by dame Walker, the schoolmistress of the vil- lage. When he was eight years of age, his father, in consequence of the character he had obtained for indus- try, frugality, and skill in husbandry, had a little pro- motion bestowed upon him, which was that of being appointed head servant, or hind *-, to a farm belonging to the late Thomas Skottow, Esq. called Airy Holme, near Great Ayton. To this place, therefore, he removed ' with his family! ; and his son James, at Mr. Skottow's expense, was put to a da}r school in Ayton, where he was instructed in writing, and in a few of the first rules of arithmetic.
Before he was thirteen years of age, he was bound an apprentice to Mr. William Sanderson, a haberdasher, or shopkeeper, at Straiths, a considerable fishing town, about ten miles north of Whitby. This employment, however, was very unsuitable to young Cook's disposi- tion. The sea was the object of his inclination ; and his passion for it could not avoid being strengthened by the situation of the town in which he was placed, and the manner of life of the persons with Avhom he must fre- quently converse. Some disagreement having happened between him and his master, he obtained his discharge, and soon after bound himself for seven years to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, of Whitby, Quakers by reli- gious profession, and principal owners of the ship Free- love, and of another vessel, both of which were con- stantly employed in the coal trade. The greatest part of his apprenticeship was spent on board the Free-love.
* This is the name which, in that part of the country, is given to the head servant, or bailiff, of a farm.
+ Mr. Cook, senior, spent the close of his life with his daughter, at Redcar, and is supposed to have been about eighty-five years of age when he died.
PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 3
After he was out of his time, he continued to serve in the coal and other branches of trade (though chiefly in the former) in the capacity of a common sailor ; till, at length, he was raised to he mate of one of Mr. John "Walker's ships. During this period it is not recollected that he exhibited any thing very peculiar, either in his abilities or his conduct ; though there can be no doubt but that he had gained a considerable degree of know- ledge in the practical part of na\ igation, and that his attentive and sagacious mind was laying up a store of observations, which would be useful to him in future life.
In the spring of the year 1755, when hostilities broke out between England and France, and there was a hot press for seamen, Mr. Cook happened to be in the river Thames with the ship to which he belonged. At first he concealed himself, to avoid being pressed; but re- flecting, that it might be difficult, notwithstanding all his vigilance, to elude discovery or escape pursuit, he determined, upon further consideration, to enter volun- tarily into his majesty's service, and to take his future fortune in the royal navy. Perhaps he had some pre- sage in his own mind, that by his activity and exertions he might rise considerably above his present situation. Accordingly, he went to a rendezvous atWapping, and entered with an officer of the Eagle man of war, a ship of sixty guns, at that time commanded by Captain Ha- mer. To this ship Captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) Pal- liser was appointed, in the month of October, 1755 ; and when he took the command, found in her James Cook, whom he soon distinguished to be an able, active, and diligent seaman. All the officers spoke highly in his favour, and the captain was so well pleased with his be- haviour, that he gave him every encouragement which lay in his power.
In the course of some time, Captain Palliser received a letter from Mr. Osbaldeston, then member of Parlia- ment for Scarborough, acquainting him that several neighbours of his had solicited him to write in favour of one Cook, on board the captain's ship. They had heard that Captain Palliser had taken notice of him, and
4 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK
they requested, if he thought Cook deserving of it, that he would point out in what manner Mr. Osbaldeston might best contribute his assistance towards forwarding the young man's promotion. The captain, in his reply, did justice to Cook's merit ; but, as he had been only a short time in the navy, informed Mr. Osbaldeston that he could not be promoted as a commission officer. A master's warrant, Captain Palliser added, might perhaps be procured for Mr. Cook, by which he would be raised to a station that he was well qualified to discharge with ability and credit.
Such a warrant he obtained on the 10th of May, 1759, for the Grampus sloop ; but the proper master haA ing unexpectedly returned to her, the appointment did not take place. Four days after he was made master of the Garland ; when, upon inquiry, it was found, that he could not join her, as the ship had already sailed. On the next day, the 15th of May, he was appointed to the Mercury. These quick and successive appointments show that his interest was strong, and that the intention to serve him was real and effectual.
The destination of the Mercury was to North Ame- rica, where she joined the fleet under the command of Sir Charles Saunders, which, in conjunction with the land forces under General Wolfe, was engaged in the famous siege of Quebec. During that siege, a difficult and dangerous service was necessary to be performed. This was to take the soundings in the channel of the river St. Lawrence, between the island of Orleans and the north shore, directly in the front of the French for- tified camp at Montmorency and Beauport, in order to enable the admiral to place ships against the enemy's batteries, and to cover our army on a general attack, which the heroic Wolfe intended to make on the camp. Captain Palliser, in consequence of his acquaintance with Mr. Cook's sagacity and resolution, recommended him to the service ; and he performed it in the most complete manner. In this business he was employed during the nighttime, for several nights together. At length he was discovered by the enemy, Avho collected a great number of Indians and canoes, in a wood near
* PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 5
the waterside, which were launched in the night, for the purpose of surrounding him, and cutting him oft*. On this occasion, he had a very narrow escape. He was obliged to run for it, and pushed on shore on the island of Orleans, near the guard of the English hospital . Some of the Indians entered at the stern of the boat, as Mr. Cook leaped out at the bow ; and the boat, which was a barge belonging to one of the ships of war, was carried away in triumph. However, he furnished the admiral with as correct and complete a draught of the channel and soundings as could have been made after our countrymen were in possession of Quebec. Sir Hugh Palliser had good reason to believe, that before this time Mr. Cook had scarcely ever used a pencil, and that he knew nothing of drawing. But such was his capacity, that he speedily made himself master of every object to which he applied his attention.
Another important service was performed by Mr.Cook while the fleet continued in the river of St. Lawrence. The navigation of that river is exceedingly difficult and hazardous. It was particular! v so to the English, who were then in a great measure strangers to this part of North America, and who had no chart, on the correct- ness of which they could depend. It was therefore ordered by the admiral, that Mr. Cook should be em- ployed to survey those parts of the river, below Quebec, which navigators had experienced to be attended with peculiar difficulty and danger; and he executed the business with the same diligence and skill of which he had already afforded so happy a specimen. When he had finished the undertaking, his chart of the river St. Lawrence was published, with soundings, and directions for sailing in that river. Of the accuracy and utility of this chart, it is sufficient to say, that it hath never since been found necessary to publish anv other. One, which has appeared in France, is only a copy of our author's, on a reduced scale.
After the expedition at Quebec, Mr. Cook, by war- rant from Lord Colvill, was appointed, on the 22d of September, 1759, master of the Northumberland man of war, the ship in which his lordship staid, in the fol-
6 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK
lowing winter, as commodore, with the command of a squadron at Halifax. In this station, Mr. Cook's be- haviour did not fail to gain him the esteem and friend- ship of his commander. During the leisure, which the season of winter afforded him, he employed his time in the acquisition of such knowledge as eminently quali- fied him for future service. It was at Halifax that he first read Euclid, and applied himself to the study of astronomy and other branches of science. The books of which he had the assistance were few in number : but his industry enabled him to supply many defects, and to make a progress far superior to what could be expected from the advantages he enjoyed.
While Mr. Cook was master of the Northumberland under Lord Colvill, that ship came to Newfoundland in September, 1762, to assist in the recapture of the island from the French, by the forces under the command of Lieutenant-colonel Amherst. When the island was re- covered, the English fleet staid some days at Placentia, in order to put it in a more complete state of defence. During this time Mr. Cook manifested a diligence in surveying the harbour and heights of the place, which arrested the notice of Captain (now Admiral) Graves, commander of the Antelope, and governor of Newfound- land. The governor was hence induced to ask Cook a variety of questions, from the answers to which he was led to entertain a very favourable opinion of his abili- ties. This opinion was increased, the more he saw of Mr. Cook's conduct; who, wherever they went, conti- nued to display the most unremitting attention to every object that related to the knowledge of the coast, and was calculated to facilitate the practice of navigation. The esteem which Captain Graves had conceived for him was confirmed by the testimonies to his character, that were given by ail the officers under whom he served.
In the latter end of 1762, Mr. Cook returned to Eng- land; and, on the 21st of December, in the same year, married, at Barking in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, an amiable and deserving woman, who was justly entitled to and enjoyed his tenderest regard and affection. But his station in life, and the high duties to which he was
PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 7
called, did not permit him to partake of matrimonial felicity, without many and very long interruptions.
Early in the year 1763, after the peace with France and Spain was concluded, it was determined that Cap- tain Graves should go out again, as governor of New- foundland. As the country was very valuable in a com- mercial view, and had been an object of great conten- tion between the English and the French, the captain obtained an establishment for the survey of its coasts ; which, however, he procured with some difficulty, be- cause the matter was not sufficiently understood by government at home. In considering the executiou of the plan, Mr. Cook appeared to Captain Graves to be a proper person for the purpose : and proposals were made to him, to which, notwithstanding his recent marriage, he readily and prudently acceded. Accordinglv, he went out with the captain as surveyor ; and was first employed to survey Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded by the treaty to the French, who, bv order of administration, were to take possession of them at a certain period, even though the English commander should not happen to be arrived in the country. When Captain Graves had reached that part of the world, he found there the governor who had been sent from France (Mods. D'Anjac), with all the settlers and his own fa- mily, on board a frigate and some transports. It was contrived, however, to keep them in that disagreeable situation for a whole month, which was the time taken by Mr. Cook to complete his survey. "When the busi- ness was finished, the French were put into possession of the two islands, and left in the quiet enjoyment of them, with every profession of civility.
At the end of the season, Mr. Cook returned to Eng- land, but did not long continue at home. In the begin- ning of the year 1764, his old and constant friend and patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, was appointed governor and commodore of Newfoundland and Labradore: upon which occasion, he was glad to take Mr. Cook with him, in the same capacity that he had sustained under Cap- tain Graves. Indeed, no man could have been found, who was better qualified for finishing the design which
8 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK
had been begun in the preceding year. The charts of the coasts, in that part of Morth America, were very erroneous ; and it was highly necessary to the trade and navigation of his majesty's subjects, that new ones should be formed, which would be more correct and useful. Accordingly, under the orders of Commodore Palliser, Mr. Cook was appointed on the 18th of April, 1764, marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labradore ; and he had a vessel, the Greuville schooner, to attend him for that purpose. How well he executed his com- mission is known to every man acquainted with navi- gation. The charts, which he afterwards published of the different surveys he had made, reflected great cre- dit on his abilities and character, and the utility of them is universally acknowledged. It is understood, that, so far as Newfoundland is concerned, thev were of consi derable service to the king's ministers, in settling the terms of the last peace. Mr. Cook explored the inland parts of this island in a much completer manner than had ever been done before. By penetrating further into the middle of the country than any man had hitherto attempted, he discovered several large lakes, which are indicated upon the general chart. In these services Mr. Cook appears to have been employed, with the intervals of occasionally returning to England for the winter season, till the year 1767, which was the last time that he went out upon his station of marine sur- veyor of Newfoundland. It must not be omitted, that, while he occupied this post, he had an opportunity of exhibiting to the Royal Society a proof of his progress in the study of astronomy. A short paper was written by him, and inserted in the fifty-seventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions, entitled, " An Observation of an Eclipse of the Sun at the Island of Newfoundland, August 5, 1766, with the Longitude of the Place of Observation deduced from it." The observation was made at one of the Burgeo islands, near Cape Ray, in latitude 47° 36' 19", on the south-west extremity of Newfoundland. Mr. Cook's paper having been com- municated by Dr. Bevis to Mr. Witchell, the latter gen- tleman compared it with an observation at Oxford, by
PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 9
the Rev. Mr. Hornsby, on the same eclipse, and thence computed the difference of longitude respecting the places of observation, making due allowance for the effect of parallax, and the prolate spheroidal figure of the earth. It appears from the Transactions that our navigator had already obtained the character of being an able mathematician.
CHAP. II.
Narrative of Captain Cook's first Voyage, round the
World.
There is scarcely any thing from which the natural curiosity of man receives a higher gratification, than from the accounts of distant countries and nations. Nor is it curiosity only that is gratified by such accounts ; for the sphere of human knowledge is hereby enlarged, and various objects are brought into view, an acquain- tance with which greatly contributes to the improve- ment of life and the benelit of the world. With regard to information of this kind, the moderns ha^ e eminently the advantage over the ancients. The ancients could neither pursue their inquiries with the same accuracy, nor carry them on to the same extent. Travelling by land was much more inconvenient and dangerous than it hath been in later times ; and, as navigation was prin- cipally confined to coasting, it must necessarily have been circumscribed within ^ery narrow limits.
The invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent and enterprising spirit of several able men, was followed by wonderful discoveries. Vasco di Gama doubled the Cape of Good Hope ; and a new way being thus found out to the East Indies, the countries in that part of the earth became more accurately and extensively known. Another world was discovered by Columbus ; and, at length, Magalhaens accomplished the arduous and hi- therto unattempted task of sailing round the globe. At different periods, he was succeeded by other circumna- a igators, of whom it is no part of the present narratn e to give an account.
10 CAPTAIN COOK'S
The spirit of discovery, which was so vigorous during the latter end of the fifteenth and through the whole of the sixteenth century, began, soon after the commence- ment of the seventeenth centunr, to decline. Great ua- a igations were only occasionally undertaken, and more from the immediate views of avarice or war, than from any noble and generous principles. But of late years they have been revived, with the enlarged and bene- volent design of promoting the happiness of the human species.
A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of George the Second, during which two voyages were performed ; the first under the command of Captain Middleton, and the next under the direction of Captains Smith and More, in order to discover a north-west pas- sage, through Hudson's Bay. It Avas reserved, how- ever, for the glory of the present reign to carry the spirit of discovery to its height, and to conduct it on the noblest principles ; not for the purposes of covetousness or ambition ; not to plunder or destroy the inhabitants of newly-explored countries ; but to improve their con- dition, to instruct them in the arts of life, and to extend the boundaries of science.
No sooner was peace restored, in 1763, than these laudable designs engaged his majesty's patronage ; and two voyages round tUe world had been undertaken, before Mr. Cook set out on his first command. The conductors of these voyages were the Captains Byron, Wallis, and Carteret*, by whom several discoveries were made, which contributed, in no small degree, to increase the knowledge of geography and navigation. Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent out appears to have had a principal reference to a par- ticular object in the South Atlantic, the direct track they were obliged to hold, on their way homeward by the East Indies, prevented them from doing so much as
* The Captains Wallis and Carteret went out together upon the same expedition ; but the vessels they commanded having accidentally parted company, they proceeded and returned by a different route. Hence their voyages are distinctly related by Dr. Hawkesworth.
FIRST VOYAGE. 11
might otherwise have been expected towards giving the world a complete view of that immense expanse of ocean, which the South Pacific comprehends.
Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had re- turned to Great Britain, another voyage was resolved upon, for which the improvement of astronomical science afforded the immediate occasion. It having been cal- culated by astronomers, that a transit of Venus over the Sun's disk would happen in 1769, it was judged, that the best place for observing it would be in some part of the South Sea, either at the Marquesas, or at one of those islands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, and which are now better known under the appellation of the Friendly Islands. This being a matter of eminent consequence in astro- nomy, and which excited the attention of foreign nations as well as of our own, the affair was taken tip by the Royal Society, with the zeal which has always been displayed by that learned body for the advancement of every branch of philosophical science. Accordingly, a long memorial was addressed to his majesty, dated February the loth, 1768, representing the great im- portance of the object, together with the regard which had been paid to it by the principal courts of Europe ; and entreating, among other things, that a vessel might be ordered, at the expense of government, for the con- vey ance of suitable persons, to make the observation of the transit of Venus, at one of the places before men- tioned. This memorial having been laid before the king by the Earl of Shelburne (now the Marquis of Lansdown), one of the principal secretaries of state, his majesty graciously signified his pleasure to the lords commissioners of the Admiralty, that the}" should provide a ship for carrving over such observers as the Royal Society should judge proper to send to the South Seas; and, on the 3d of April, Mr. Stephens informed the so- ciety that a bark had been taken up for the purpose.
The gentleman who had originally been fixed upon to take the direction of the expedition, was Alexander Dalrymple, Esq. an eminent member of the Royal So- ciety, and who, besides possessing an accurate knowledge
12 CAPTAIN COOK'S
of astronomy, had distinguished himself by his inquiries into the geography of the Southern Oceans, and by the collection he had published of several voyages to those parts of the world. Mr. Dalrvmple being sensible of the difficulty, or rather of the impossibility, of carrying a ship through unknown seas, the crew of which were not subject to the military discipline of his majesty's navy, he made it the condition of his going, that he should have a brevet commission, as captain of the ves- sel, in the same manner as such a commission had been granted to Dr. Halley, in his voyage of discovery. To this demand Sir Edward Hawke, who was then" at the head of the Admiralty, and who possessed more of the spirit of his profession than either of education or science, absolutely refused to accede. He said, at the board, that his conscience would not allow him to trust any ship of his majesty's to a person who had not regularly been bred a seaman. On being further pressed upon the subject, Sir Edward declared, that he would suffer his right hand to be cut off, before he would sign any such commission. In this he was, in some degree, justified by the mutinous behaviour of Halley's crew, who refused to acknowledge the legal authority of their commander, and involved him in a dispute which was attended with pernicious consequences. Mr. Dal- rymple, on the other hand, was equally- steady in re- quiring a compliance with the terms he had proposed. Such was the state of things, when Mr. Stephens, secre- tary to the Admiralty, whose discrimination of the nu- merous characters, with which by his station he is con- versant, reflects as much credit on his understanding, as his upright and able conduct does on the office he has filled for so many years, and under so many ad- ministrations, with honour to himself and advantage to the public, observed to the board, that since Sir Edward Hawke and Mr. Dalrvmple were equally inflexible, no method remained but that of finding out another person capable of the service. He knew, he said, a Mr. Cook, who had been employed as marine surveyor of New- foundland, who had been regularly educated in the navy, in which he was a master, and whom he judged to be
FIRST VOYAGE. 13
fullv qualified for the direction of the present under- taking. Mr. Stephens, at the same time, recommended it to the board, to take the opinion of Sir Hugh Palliser, who had latelv been governor of Newfoundland, and was intimatelv acquainted with Cook's character. Sir Hugh rejoiced in the opportunity of serving his friend. He strengthened Mr. Stephens's recommendation to the utmost of his power ; and added many things in Mr. Cook's favour, arising from the particular know- ledge which he had of his abilities and merit. Accord- ingly, Mr. Cook was appointed to the command of the expedition bv the lords of the Admiralty ; and, on this occasion, he was promoted to the rank of a lieutenant in the roval navv, his commission bearing date on the 25th of May, 1768.
AYhen the appointment had taken place, the first ob- ject was to provide a vessel adapted to the purposes of the voyage. This business was committed to Sir Hugh Palliser ; who took Lieutenant Cook to his assistance, and thev examined together a great number of the ships, which then lay in the river Thames. At length, they fixed upon one, of three hundred and seventy tons, to which was given the name of the Endeavour.
While preparations were making for Lieutenant Cook's expedition, Captain Wallis returned from his voyage round the world. The Earl of Morton, presi- dent of the Royal Society, had recommended it to this gentleman, on his going out, to fix upon a proper place for observing the transit of Venus. He kept, accord- ingly, the object in view ; and having discovered, in the course of his enterprise, an island, called by him George's Island, but which has since been found to bear the name of Otaheite, he judged that Port Royal harbour in this island would afford an eligible situation for the purpose. Having, immediately on his return to England, signified his opinion to the Earl of Morton, the captain's idea was adopted by the society, and an answer conformable to it was sent to the commissioners of the Admiralty, who had applied for directions to what place the observers should be sent.
Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had Ions; been
14 CAPTAIN COOK'S
assistant to Dr. Bradley at the royal observatory at Greenwich, was united with Lieutenant Cook in con- ducting the astronomical part of the voyage ; and, soon after their appointment, they received ample instruc- tions, from the council of the Royal Society, with regard to the method of carrying on their inquiries. The lieu- tenant was also accompanied by Joseph Banks, Esq. (now Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.) and Dr. Solander, who, in the prime of life, and the first of them at great expense to himself, quitted all the gratifications of polished society, and engaged in a very tedious, fatiguing, and hazardous navigation, with the laudable views of ac- quiring knowledge in general, of promoting natural knowledge in particular, and of contributing something to the improvement and the happiness of the rude in- habitants of the earth.
Though it was the principal, it was not the sole object of Lieutenant Cook's voyage to observe the transit of Venus. A more accurate examination of the Pacific Ocean was committed to him, although in subserviency to his main design ; and, when his chief business was accomplished, he was directed to proceed in making further discoveries in the great Southern Seas.
The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship consisted of eighty-four persons besides the commander. Her victualling was for eighteen months; and there was put on board of her ten carriage and ten swivel guns, together with an ample store of ammunition and other necessaries.
On the 25th of May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was ap- pointed, by the lords of the Admiralty, to the command of the Endeavour, in consequence of which he went on board on the 27th, and took charge of the ship. She then lay in the bason in Deptford-yard, where she con- tinued to lie till she was completely fitted for sea. On the 30th of July she sailed down the river, and on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound. The wind becoming fair on the 26th of that month, our na- vigators got under sail, and on the 13th of September anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island of Madeira.
While Lieutenant Cook and his company were in
FIRST VOYAGE, 15
this island, they were treated with the utmost kindness and liberality by Mr. Cheap, the English consul there, and one of the most considerable merchants in the town of Funchiale. He insisted upon their taking possession of his house, and furnished them with every possible accommodation during their stay at Madeira. They received, likewise, great marks of attention and civility from Dr. Thomas Heberden, the principal physician of the island, and brother to the excellent and learned Dr. William Heberden, of London. Dr. Thomas Heberden afforded all the assistance in his power to Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in their botanical incpiiries.
It was not solely from the English that the lieutenant and his friends experienced a kind reception. The fathers of the Franciscan convent displayed a liberalitv of sentiment towards them, which might not have been expected from Portuguese friars ; and, in a visit which they paid to a convent of nuns, the ladies expressed a particular pleasure in seeing them. At this visit the good nuns gave an amusing proof of the progress they had made in the cultivation of their understandings. Having heard that there were great philosophers among the English gentlemen, they asked them a variety of questions ; one of which was, when it would thunder ; and another, whether a spring of fresh water, which was much wanted, was any where to be found within the walls of the convent. Eminent as our philosophers were, they were puzzled by these questions.
Lieutenant Cook, having laid in a fresh stock of beef, water, and wine, set sail from the island of Madeira, in the night of the 18th of September, and proceeded on his voyage. By the 7th of November several articles of the ship's provisions began to fall short ; for which reason, the lieutenant determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. This place he preferred to any other port in Brazil or to Falkland's Islands, because he could there be better supplied with what he wanted, and had no doubt of meeting with a friendly reception.
During the run between Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook and the gentlemen in the Endeavour had an opportunity of determining a philosophical ques-
IG CAPTAIN COOK'S
tion. On the evening of the 29th of October, they ob- served that luminous appearance of the sea which hath so often been mentioned by navigators, and which has been ascribed to such a variety of causes. Flashes of light appeared to be emitted, exactly resembling those of lightning, though without being so considerable ; and such was the frequency of them, tbat sometimes eight or ten were visible almost at the same moment. It was the opinion of Mr. Cook and the other gentlemen, that these flashes proceeded from some luminous animal ; and their opinion was confirmed by experiment.
At Rio de Janeiro, in the port of which Lieutenant Cook came to an anchor on the 13th of November, he did not meet with the polite reception that, perhaps, he had too sanguiuelv expected. His stay was spent in continual altercations with the viceroy, who appeared not a little jealous of the designs of the English : nor were all the attempts of the lieutenant to set the matter right, capable of producing any effect. The viceroy was by no means distinguished either by his knowledge or his love of science ; and the grand object of Mr. Cook's expedition was quite beyond his comprehension. When he was told that the English were bound to the southward, by the order of his Britannic majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the Sun, an astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navi- gation, he could form no other conception of the matter, than that it was the passing of the North star through the South Pole.
During the whole of the contest with the a iceroy, Lieutenant Cook behaved with equal spirit and discre- tion. A supplv of water and other necessaries could not be refused him, and these were gotten on board by the 1st of December. On that day the lieutenant sent to the viceroy for a pilot to carry the Endeavour to sea ; but the wind preventing the ship from getting out, she was obliged to continue some time longer in the harbour. A Spanish packet hai ing arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the 2d of December, with dispatches from Buenos Ayres for Spain, the commander, Don Antonio de Monte Negro y Velasco, offered, with great polite-
FIRST VOYAGE. 17
ness, to convey the letters of the English to Europe. This favour Lieutenant Cook accepted, and gave Don Antonio a packet for the secretary of the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers that had passed be- tween himself and the Viceroy. He left, also, duplicates with the viceroy, that he might forward them, if he thought proper, to Lisbon.
On the 5th of December, it being a dead cabn, our navigators weighed anchor, and towed down the Bay ; but, to their great astonishment, two shot were fired at them, when they had gotten abreast of Santa Cruz, the principal fortification of the harbour. Lieutenant Cook immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to demand the reason of this conduct ; the answer to which was, that the commandant had received no order from the viceroy to let the ship pass ; and that, without such an order, no vessel Avas ever suffered to go below the fort. It now became necessary to send to the viceroy, to in- quire why the order had not been given ; and his be- haviour appeared the more extraordinary, as notice had been transmitted to him of the departure of the English, and he had thought proper to write a polite letter to Mr. Cook, wishing him a good voyage. The lieutenant's messenger soon returned, with the information that the order had been written several days, and that its not having been sent had arisen from some unaccountable negligence. It Avas not till the 7th of December that the Endeavour got under sail.
In the account which Lieutenant Cook has giAren of Rio de Janeiro, and the country round it, one circum- stance is recorded, which cannot be otherwise than very painful to humanity. It is the horrid expense of life at which the gold mines are wrought. No less than forty thousand Negroes are annually imported for this pur- pose, on the king of Portugal's account ; and the Eng- lish Avere credibly informed, that, in the year 1766, this number fell so short, that twenty thousand more AVere drafted from the town of Rio.
From Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook pursued his voyage, and, on the 14th of January, 1769, entered the Strait of Le Maire, at which time the tide drove the.
vol. i. c
IS CAPTAIN COOK B
ship out a "ith so much violence, and raised such a sea off Cape St. Diego, that she frequently pitched, so that the bowsprit was under water. On the nc\t day, the lieutenant anchored, first before a small cove, which was understood to be Port Maurice, and afterwards in the Bay of Good Success. AVhile the Endeavour was in this station, happened the memorable aihciiture of Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer, together with their at- tendants and servants, ami two seamen, in ascending: a mountain to search for plants. In this expedition they were all of them exposed to the utmost extremity of danger and of cold : Dr. Solander was seized with a torpor which had nearly proi ed fatal to his life : and two black servants actually died. When the gentlemen had, at length, ou the second day of their adventure, gotten back to the ship, they congratulated each other on their safety, with a joy that can only be felt by those who have experienced equal perils ; and Mr. Cook was relieved from a very painful anxiety. It was a dreadful testimony of the se\erity of the climate, that this event took place when it was the midst of summer in that part of the world, and at the close of a day. the beginning of which was as mild and warm, as the month of May usually is in England.
In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieu- tenant Cook and his ingenious associates had au oppor- tunitv of gaining a considerable degree of acquaintance with the inhabitants of the adjoining country. Here it was that they saw human nature in its lowest form. The natives appeared to be the most destitute and for- lorn, as well as the most stupid, of the children of men. Their lives are spent in wandering about the dreary wastes that surround them : and their dwellings are no other than wretched hovels of sticks aud grass, which not onlv admit the wind, but the suow and the rain. They are almost naked : and so devoid are they of every com euience which is furnished by the rudest art, that they hare not so much as an implement to dress their food. Nevertheless, they seemed to have no wish un- acquiring more than they possessed ; nor did any thing
FIRST VOYAGE. 19
that was offered them by the English appear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. A eon- elusion is hence drawn by Dr. Hawkesworth, that these people may be upon a level with ourselves, in respect to the happiness they enjoy. This, however, is a posi- tion which ought not hastily to be admitted. It is, indeed, a beautiful circumstance, in the order of Divine Providence, that the rudest inhabitants of the earth, and those who are situated in the most unfavourable climates, should not be sensible of their disadvantages. But still it must be allowed, that their happiness is greatly inferior, both in kind and degree, to that intel- lectual, social, and moral felicity, which is capable of being attained in a highly cultivated state of societv.
In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the determi- nation of the best passage from the Atlantic is a point of peculiar importance. It is well known what prodigious difficulties were experienced in this respect by former navigators. The doubling of Cape Horn, in particular, was so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, it was far more eligible to pass through the Strait of Ma- gal haens. Lieutenant Cook hath fully ascertained the erroneousness of this opinion. He was but three-and- thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego, from the east entrance of the Strait of Le Maire, till he had advanced about twelve degrees to the westward, and three and a half to the northward of the Strait of Magalhaens ; and, during this time, the ship scarcely received any- damage. Whereas, if he had come into the Pacific Ocean by that passage, he would not have been able to accomplish it in less than three months ; besides which, his people would have been fatigued, and the anchors, cables, sails, and rigging of the vessel much injured. By the course he pursued, none of these inconveniences were suffered. In short, Lieutenant Cook, by his own example in doubling Cape Horn, by his accurate ascertainment of the latitude and longitude of the places he came to, and by his instructions to fu- ture vovagers, performed the most essential services to this part of navigation.
It was on the 2Gth of January that the Endeavour
20 CAPTAIN COOK'S
took her departure from Cape Horn ; and it appeared, that, from that time to the 1st of March, during a run of six hundred and sixty leagues, there was no current which affected the ship. Hence it was highly probable that our navigators had been near no land of anv con- siderable extent, currents being always found when land is not remote.
In the prosecution of Lieutenant Cook's voyage from Cape Horn to Otaheite, several islands were discovered, to which the names were given of Lagoon Island, Thrump-cap, Bow Island, The Groups, Bird Island, and Chain Island. It appeared that most of these islands w ere inhabited ; and the verdure, and groves of palm- trees, which were visible upon some of them, gave them the aspect of a terrestrial paradise to men who, excepting the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, had seen nothing for a long time but sky and water.
On the 11th of April, the Endeavour arrived in sight of Otaheite, and on the 13th she came to an anchor in Port Royal Bay, which is called Matavia by the natives. As the stay of the English in the island was not likely to be very short, and much depended on the manner in which traffic should be carried on with the inhabitants, Lieutenant Cook, with great good sense and humanitv, drew up a set of regulations for the behaviour of his people, and gave it in command, that they should punc- tually be observed*.
One of the first things that occupied the lieutenant's attention, after his arrival at Otaheite, was to prepare for the executiou of his grand commission. For this purpose, as, in an excursion to the westward, he had
* The rules were as follow: " 1. To endeavour, by every fair means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives: and to treat them with all imaginable humanity. 2. A proper per- son or persons will be appointed to trade with the natives for all manner of provisions, fruit, and other productions of the earth ; and no officer or seaman, or other person belonging to the ship, excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade, or offer to trade, for any sort of provision, fruit, or other pro- ductions of the earth, unless they have leave so to do. 3. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend to the same ; and if by any neglect he loseth any of
FIRST VOYAGE. 21
not found any more convenient harbour than that in which the Endear oitr lay, he determined to go on shore and fix upon some spot, commanded by the guns of the ship, where he might throw up a small fort for defence, and set every thins: readv for making the astronomical observation. Accordingly, he took a party of men, and landed, being accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green. They soon fixed upon a place very proper for their design, and which was at a considera- ble distance from any habitation of the natives. While the gentlemen were marking out the ground which they intended to occupy, and seeing a small tent erected, that belonged to Mr. Banks, a great number of the peo- ple of the country gathered gradually around them, but with no hostile appearance, as there was not among the Indians a single weapon of any kind. Mr. Cook, how- ver, intimated that none of them were to come within the line he had drawn, excepting one, who appeared to be a chief, and Owhaw, a native who had attached him- self to the English, both in Captain Wallis's expedition and in the present voyage. The lieutenant endeavoured to make these two persons understand, that the ground, which had been marked out, was only wanted to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then it would be quitted. Whether his meaning was compre- hended or not, he could not certainly determine ; but the people behaved with a deference and respect that could scarcely have been expected, and which were highly pleasing. They sat down without the circle, peaceably and uninterruptedly attending to the pro- gress of the business, which was upwards of two hours in completing.
his arms, or working tools, or suffers them to be stolen, the full value thereof will be charged against his pay, according to the custom of the navy in such cases, and he shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the offence may de- serve. 4. The same penalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's stores, of what nature soever. 5. No sort of iron, or any thing that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful or necessary articles, are to be given in ex- change for any thing but provision. J. COOK."
22 CAPTAIN COOK'S
This matter being finished, and Mr. Cook having ap- pointed thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, he and the gentlemen with him set out upon a little excursion into the woods of the country. They had not, however, gone far, before they were brought back by a very disagreeable event. One of the Indians, who remained about the tent after the lieutenant and his friends had left it, watched an opportunity of taking the sentry at unawares, and snatched away his musket. Upon this, the petty officer who commanded the party, and who was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. With equal want of consideration, and, perhaps, with equal inhumanity, the men immediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flying crowd, who consisted of more than a hundred. It being ob- served, that the thief did not fall, he was pursued, and shot dead. From subsequent information it happily appeared, that none of the natives besides were either killed or wounded.
Lieutenant Cook, who was highly displeased with the conduct of the petty officer, used every method in his power to dispel the terrors and apprehensions of the Indians, but not immediately with effect. The next, morning but few of the inhabitants were seen upon the beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. W hat added particularly to the regret of the English was, that even Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and who the day before had been remark- ably active in endeavouring to renew the peace which had been broken, did not now make his appearance. In the evening, however, when the lieutenant went on shore with only a boat's crew and some of the gentle- men, between thirty and fortv of the natives gathered around them, and trafficked with them, in a friendly manner, for cocoa nuts and other fruit.
On the 17th, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green set up a tent on shore, and spent the night there, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter; but they met with a disappointment, in consequence of the weather's becoming cloudy. The next day, the lieutenant, vvitli as many of his people as could possibly be spared from
FIRST VOYAGE. 23
the ship, began to erect the fort. While the English were employed in this business, many of the Indians were so far from hindering, that they voluntarily as- sisted them, and with great alacrity brought the pickets and facines from the wood where they had heen cut. Indeed, so scrupulous had Mr. Cook been of invading their property, that every stake which was used was purchased, and not a tree was cut down till their con- sent had first been obtained.
On the 26th, the lieutenant mounted sis swivel guns upon the fort ; on which occasion he saw, with concei-n, that the natives were alarmed and terrified. Some fishermen, who lived upon the point, removed to a greater distance ; and Owhaw informed the English by signs, of his expectation that in four days they would fire their great guns.
The lieutenant, on the succeeding day, gave a striking proof of his regard to justice, and of his care to pre- serve the inhabitants from injury and violence, by the punishment he inflicted on the butcher of the Endeavour, who was accused of having threatened, or attempted, the life of a woman, that was the wife of Tubourai Tamaide, a chief, remarkable for his attachment to our navigators. The butcher wanted to purchase of her a stone hatchet for a nail. To this bargain she absolutely refused to accede ; upon which the fellow catched up the hatchet, and threw down the nail ; threatening, at the same time, that if she made any resistance, he would cut her throat with a reaping-hook which he had in his hand. The charge was so fully proved in the presence of Mr. Banks, and the butcher had so little to say in exculpation of himself, that not the least doubt remained of his guilt. The affair being reported by Mr. Banks to lieutenant Cook, he took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with others of the natives, were on board the ship, to call up the offender, and, after re- capitulating the accusation and the proof of it, to give orders for his immediate punishment. While the butcher was stripped, and tied up to the rigging, the Indians preserved a fixed attention, and waited for the event in silent suspense. But as soon as the first stroke was
24 CAPTAIN COOK'S
• inflicted, such was the humanity of these people, that they interfered with great agitation, and earnestly en- treated that the rest of the punishment might be remit- ted. To this, however, the lieutenant, for various rea- sons, could not grant his consent ; and, when thev found that their intercessions were ineffectual, they manifested their compassion by tears.
On the 1st of May, the observatory was set up, and the astronomical quadrant, together with some other instruments, was taken on shore. When, on the next morning, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green landed for the pur- pose of fixing the quadrant in a situation for use, to their inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to be found. It had been deposited in a tent reserved for the lieutenant's use, where no one had slept ; it had never been taken out of the packing case, and the whole was of considerable weight : none of the other instru- ments were missing ; and a sentinel had been posted the whole night within five yards of the tent. These cir- cumstances induced a suspicion that the robbery might have been committed by some of our own people, who having seen a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might imagine that it contained nails, or other articles for traffic with the natives. The most diligent search, therefore, was made, and a large reward was offered for the finding of the quadrant, but with no degree of suc- cess. In this exigency, Mr. Banks was of eminent ser- vice. As this gentleman had more influence over the Indians than any other person on board the Endeavour, and as there could now be little doubt of the quadrant's having been conveyed awav by some of the natives, he determined to go in search of it into the woods; and it was recovered in consequence of his judicious and spi- rited exertions. The pleasure with which it was brought back was equal to the importance of the event ; for the grand object of the voyage could not otherwise have been accomplished.
Another embarrassment, though not of so serious a nature, was occasioned, on the vervr same day, by one of our officers having inadvertently taken into custody Tootahah, a chief who had connected himself in the
FIRST VOYAGE. 25
most friendly manner with the English. Lientenant Cook, who had given express orders that none of the Indians should he confined, and who, therefore, was equally surprised and concerned at this transaction, instantly set Tootahah at liberty. So strongly had this Indian been possessed with the notion that it was in- tended to put him to death, that he could not be per- suaded to the contrary till he was led out of the fort. His joy at his deliverance was so great, that it dis- played itself in a liberality which our people were very unwilling to partake of, from a consciousness that on this occasion they had no claim to the reception of fa- vours. The impression, however, of the confinement of the chief operated with such force upon the minds of the natives, that few of them appeared ; and the mar- ket was so ill supplied, that the English were in want of necessaries. At length, by the prudent exertions of Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, the friendship of Tootahah was completely recovered, and the reconciliation worked upon the Indians like a charm ; for it was no sooner known, that he had gone voluntarily on board the Endeavour, than bread-fruit, cocoa nuts, and other provisions, were brought to the fort in great plenty.
The lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen had hitherto, with a laudable discretion, bartered only beads for the articles of food now mentioned. But the mar- ket becomiug slack, they were obliged for the first time, on the 8th of May, to bring out their nails ; and such was the effect of this new commodity, that one of the smallest size, which was about four inches long, procured twenty cocoa nuts, and bread-fruit in propor- tion.
It was not till the 10th of the month that our voy- agers learned, that the Indian name of the island was Otaheite, by which name it hath since been always distinguished.
On Sunday the 14th, an instance was exhibited of the inattention of the natives to our modes of religion. The lieutenant had directed, that divine service should be performed at the fort; and he was desirous that
20 CAPTAIN COOK'S
some of the principal Indians should be present. Mr. Bank's secured the attendance of Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occasion to some inquiries on their part, and to some instruction in return. During the whole service, thev verv atten- tively observed Mr. Banks's behaviour, and stood, sat, or kneeled, as they saw him do ; and they appeared to be sensible, that it was a serious and important employ- ment in which the English were engaged. But when the worship was ended, neither of them asked any questions, nor would they attend to any explanations which were attempted to be given of what had been performed.
As the day approached for executing the grand pur- pose of the voyage, Lieutenant Cook determined, in consequence of some hints which he had received from the Earl of Morton, to send out two parties, to observe the transit of Venus from other situations. By this means he hoped, that the success of the observation would be secured, if there should happen to be any failure at Otaheite. Accordingly, on Thursday the 1st of June, he dispatched Mr. Gore in the long boat to Eimeo, a neighbouring island, together with Mr. Monk- house, and Mr. Sporing, a gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks. They were furnished by Mr. Green with pro- per instruments. Mr. Banks himself chose to go upon this expedition, in which he was accompanied by Tu- bourai Tamaide and Tomio, and by others of the natives. Early the next morning, the lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks, in the pinnace, with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Pickersgill, and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, ordering them to fix upon some convenient spot to the eastward, at a distance from the principal observatory, where they also might employ the instruments they were provided with for observing the transit.
The anxiety for such weather as would be favourable to the success of the experiment, was powerfully felt by all the parties concerned. Thev could not sleep in peace the preceding night : but their apprehensions were happily removed bv the sun's rising, on the morn- ing of the 3d of June, without a cloud. The. weather
FIRST VOYAG'c. 27
continued with equal clearness through the whole of the day; so that the observation was successfully made in every quarter. At the fort, where Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Green, and Dr. Solander were stationed, the whole passage of the planet Venus over the suns disk was ob- served with great advantage. The magnifying power of Dr. Solander's telescope was superior to that of those which belonged to the lieutenant and to Mr. Green. They all saw an atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet ; which much disturbed the times of the contact, and especially of the internal ones ; and, in their accounts of these times, they differed from each other in a greater degree than might have been ex- pected. According to Mr. Green,
mi i r- Morning.
The first external contact, or first appear- h. min. sec.
ance of Venus on the sun, was .... 9 25 42 The first internal contact, or total im- mersion, was 9 44 4
The second internal contact, or begin- Afternoon-
ning of the emersion, was 3 14 8
The second external contact, or total
emersion, Avas 3 32 10
The latitude of the observatory was found to be
17° 29' 15" ; and the longitude Ul° 32' 30" west
of Greenwich.
A more particular account of this great astronomical event, the providing for the accurate observation of which reflects so much honour on his majesty's munifi- cent patronage of science, may be seen in the sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions.
The pleasure which Lieutenant Cook and his friends derived, from having thus successfully accomplished the first grand object of the voyage, was not a little abated by the conduct of some of the ship's company, who, while the attention of the officers was engrossed by the transit of Venus, broke into one of the store- rooms, and stole a quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight. This was an evil of a public and serious nature ; for these nails, if injudici-
28 CAPTAIN COOK'S
ously circulated among the Indians, would be produc- tive of irreparable injury to the English, bv reducing' the value of iron, their staple commodity. One of the thieves, from whom only seven nails were recovered, was detected ; but, though the punishment of two dozen lashes was inflicted upon him, he would not impeach any of his accomplices.
Upon account of the absence of the two parties who had been sent out to observe the transit, the king's birthday was celebrated on the 5th, instead of the 4th of June ; and the festivity of the day must have been greatly heightened by the happy success with which his majesty's liberality had been crowned.
On the 12th, Lieutenant Cook was again reduced to the necessitv of exercising the severity of discipline. Complaint having been made to him, by certain of the natives, that two of the seamen had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some strings of platted hair, and the charge being fully supported, he punished each of the criminals with two dozen of lashes.
On the same day it was discovered, that Otaheite, like other couutries in a certain period of society, has its bards and its minstrels. Mr. Banks, in his morn- ing's walk, had met with a number of natives, who ap- peared, upon inquiry, to be travelling musicians; and, having learned where they were to be at night, all the gentlemen of the Endeavour repaired to the place. The band consisted of two flutes and three drums ; and the drummers accompanied the music with their voices. To the surprise of the English gentlemen, they found that themseh es were generally the subject of the song, which was unpremeditated. These minstrels were continually going about from place to place; and they Avere re- warded, by the master of the house and the audience, with such things as they wanted.
The repeated thefts which were committed by the inhabitants of Otaheite brought our vovajrers into (re- quent difficulties, and it required all the wisdom of Lieutenant Cook to conduct himself in a proper man- ner. His sentiments on the subject displayed the libe- rality of his mind. He thought it of consequence to
FIRST VOYAGE. 29
put an end, if possible, to thievish practices at once, by doing something that should engage the natives in general to prevent them, from a regard to their com • mon interest. Strict orders had been given by him, that they should not be fired upon, even when they were detected in attempting to steal any of the English property. For this the lieutenant had many reasons. The common sentinels were in no degree fit to be en- trusted with a power of life and death; neither did Mr. Cook think that the thefts committed by the Ota- heitans deserved so severe a punishment. They were not born under the law of England ; nor was it one of the conditions under which they claimed the be- nefits of civil society, that their lives should be for- feited, unless they abstained from theft. As the lieu- tenant was not willing that the natives should be ex- posed to fire-arms loaded with shot, neither did he ap- prove of firing only with powder, which, if repeatedly found to be harmless, would at length be despised. At a time when a considerable robbery had been com- mitted, an accident furnished him with what he hoped would be a happy expedient for preventing future attempts of the same kind. Above twenty of the sail- ing canoes of the inhabitants came in with a supply of fish. Upon these Lieutenant Cook immediately seized, and, having brought them into the river behind the fort, gave notice, that unless the things which had been stolen were returned, the canoes should be burnt. This menace, without designing to put it into execu- tion, he ventured to publish, from a full conviction that, as restitution was thus made a common cause, the stolen goods would all of them speedily be brought back. In this, however, he was mistaken. An iron coal-rake, indeed, was restored ; upon which great so- licitation was made for the release of the canoes; but he still insisted on his original condition. When the next day came, he was much surprised to find that nothing further had been returned ; and, as the people were in the utmost distress for the fish, which would in a short time be spoiled, he was reduced to the disagree- able alternative, either of releasing the canoes, con-
30 CAPTAIN COOK'S
trary to what he had solemnly and publicly declared, or of detaining them, to the great damage of those who were innocent. As a temporary expedient, he per- mitted the natives to take the fish, but still detained the canoes. So far was this measure from being at- tended with advantage, that it was productive of new confusion and injury; for as it was not easv at ouce to distinguish to what particular persons the several lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered by those who had no right to any part of their cargo. At length, most pressing instances being still made for the re- storation of the canoes, and Lieutenant Cook having reason to believe, either that the things for which he detained them were not in the island, or that those who suffered by their detention were absolutely inca- pable of prevailing upon the thieves to relinquish their booty, he determined, though not immediately, to com- ply with the solicitations of the natives. Our com- mander was, however, not a little mortified at the ill success of his project. .
About the same time, another accident occurred, which, notwithstanding all the caution of our principal voyagers, was very near embroiling them with the Indians. The lieutenant having sent a boat on shore to get ballast for the ship, the officer, not immediately finding stones suitable to the purpose, began to pull down some part of an enclosure in which the inhabi- tants had deposited the bones of their dead. This ac- tion a number of the natives violently opposed ; and a messenger came down to the tents, to acquaint the gentlemen that no such thing would be suffered. 3Ir. Banks directly repaired to the place, and soon put an amicable end to the contest, by sending the boat's crew to the river, where a sufficient quantity of stones might be gathered without a possibility of giving of- fence. These Indians appeared to be much more alarmed at any injur}- which they apprehended to be done to the dead than to the living. This was the only measure in which they ventured to oppose the English : and the onlv insult that was ever offered to any individual belonging to the Endeavour was upon a
FIRST VOYAGE. 31
similar occasion. It should undoubtedly be the con- cern of all voyagers, to abstain from wantonly offend- ing the religious prejudices of the people among whom they come.
To extend the knowledge of navigation and the sphere of discovery, objects which we need not say that Lieutenant Cook kept always steadily in view, he set out, in the pinnace, on the 26th of June, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the island ; during which the lieutenant and his companions were thrown iuto great alarm, by the apprehended loss of the boat. By this expedition Mr. Cook obtained an acquaintance with the several districts of Otaheite, the chiefs who presided over them, and a variety of curious circumstances respecting the manners and cus- toms of the inhabitants. On the 1st of July, he got back to the fort at Matavai, having found the circuit of the island, including the two peninsulas of which it consisted, to be about thirty leagues.
The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by an expedition of Mr. Banks's to trace the river up the valley from which it issues, and examine how far its banks were inhabited. During this excursion he discerned many traces of subterraneous fire. The stoues, like those of Madeira, displayed evident tokens of having been burnt ; and the very clay upon the hills had the same appearance.
Another valuable employment of Mr. Banks was the planting of a great quantity of the seeds of water- melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees, which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. For these he pi-epared ground on each side of the fort, and selected as many varieties of soil as could be found. He gave, also, liberally of these seeds to the natives, and planted manv of them in the woods.
Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his de- parture. On the 7th of July, the carpenters were em- ployed in taking down the gates and palisadoes of the fortification ; and it was continued to be dismantled during the two following days. Our commander and the rest of the gentlemen were in hopes that they
32 CAPTAIN COOK'S
should quit Otaheite without giving or receiving any further offence ; but in this respect they were unfortu- nately disappointed. The lieutenant had prudently overlooked a dispute of a smaller nature between a couple of foreign seamen and some of the Indians, when he was immediately involved in a quarrel, which he greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out of his power to avoid. In the middle of the night, be- tween the Sth and the 9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, went privately from the fort. As (hey were not to be found in the morning, Mr. Cook was apprehensive that they intended to stay behind ; but, being unwilling to endanger the harmony and goodwill which at present subsisted between our people and the natives, he determined to wait a day for the chance of the men's return. As, to the great con- cern of the lieuteuaut, the marines were not come back on the morning of the tenth, inquiry was made after them of the Indians, who acknowledged that each of them had taken a wife, and had resolved to become inhabitants of the countrv. After some deliberation, two of the natives undertook to conduct such persons to the place of the deserters' retreat, as Mr. Cook should think proper to send ; and, accordingly, he dis- patched with the guides a petty officer and the corporal of the marines. As it was of the utmost importance to recover the men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with the women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that thev would not be permitted to leave it till the fugitives were returned; and the lieutenant had the pleasure of observing, that they received the intimation with very little indications of alarm, and with assurances, that his people should be secured and sent back as soon as possible. While this transaction took place at the fort, our commander sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship. Mr. Cook had reason to expect, if the Indian guides proved faithful, that the deserters, and those who went in search of them, would return before the evening. Being disappointed, his suspicious increased, and think-
FIRST VOYAGE. S3
ing it not safe, when the night approached, to let the persons whom he had detained as hostages continue at the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tomaide, Oberea, and some others, to be taken on board the Endeavour; a circumstance which excited so general an alarm, that several of them, and especially the women, expressed their apprehensions with great emotion and many tears. Webb, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some of the natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty officer and corporal, would not be restored till Toota- hah should be set at liberty. Lieutenant Cook now found that the tables were turned upon him : but, having proceeded too far to retreat, he immediately dispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to rescue the prisoners. Tootahah was, at the same time, informed, that it behoved him to send some of his people with them, for the purpose of affording them effectual assistance. With this injunc- tion he readily complied, and the prisoners were re- stored without the least opposition. On the next day they were brought back to the ship, upon which the chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus ended an affair which had given the lieutenant a great deal of trouble and concern. It appears, however, that the measure which he pursued was the result of an absolute necessity ; since it was only by the seizure of the chiefs that he could have recovered his men. Love was the seducer of the two marines. So strong was the attachment which they had formed to a couple of girls, that it was their design to conceal themselves till the ship had sailed, and to take up their residence in the island.
Tupia was one of the natives who had so particu- larly devoted himself to the English, that he had scarcely ever been absent from them during the whole of their sta}r at Otaheite. He had been Oberea's first minister, while she was in the height of her power ; and he was also chief priest of the country. To his knowledge of the religious principles and ceremonies of the Indians, he added great experience in navigation, and a particular acquaintance with the number anil
VOL. I. D
34 CAPTAIN COOK'S
situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed a desire to go with our navigators, and when they were ready to depart, he came on board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, and en- treated that he might be permitted to proceed with them on their voyage. To have such a person in the Endeavour, was desirable on many accounts ; and, therefore, Lieutenant Cook gladly acceded to his pro- posal.
On the 13th of July, the English weighed anchor ; and as soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very strik- ing and tender. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a truly admirable firmness and resolution ; for, though he wept, the effort he made to conceal his tears concurred, with them, to do him honour.
The stay of our voyagers at Otaheite was three months, the greater part of which time was spent in the most cordial friendship with the inhabitants, and a per- petual reciprocation of good offices. That any diffe- rences should happen was greatly regretted on the part of Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who were studious to avoid them as much as possible. The prin- cipal causes of them resulted from the peculiar situation and circumstances of the English and the Indians, and especially from the disposition of the latter to theft. The effects of this disposition could not always be sub- mitted to or prevented. It was happy, however, that there was only a single instance in which the dif- ferences that arose were attended with any fatal con- sequence ; and by that accident the lieutenant was instructed to take the most effectual measures for the future prevention of similar events. He had nothing so much at heart, as that in no case the intercourse of his people with the natives should be productive of bloodshed.
The traffic with the inhabitants for provisions and refreshments, which was chiefly under the management of Mr. Banks, was carried on with as much order as is any well regulated market in Europe. Axes, hatchets.
FIRST VOYAGE. 35
spikes, large nails, lookingglasses, knives, and beads, were found to be the best articles to deal in ; and for some of these, every thing which the inhabitants pos- sessed might be procured. They were, indeed, fond of fine linen cloth, whether white or printed ; but an axe worth half a crown would fetch more than a piece of cloth of the value of twentv shillings.
It would deviate from the plan of this narrative, to enter into a minute account of the nature, productions, inhabitants, customs, and manners of the countries which were discovered or visited by Mr. Cook ; or to give a particular detail of every nautical, geographical, and astronomical observation. It will be sufficient here to take notice, that our commander did not depart from Otaheite without accumulating a store of information and instruction for the enlargement of knowledge and the benefit of navigation.
"YV hile the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage under an easy sail, Tupia informed Lieutenant Cook, that, at four of the neighbouring islands, which he distinguished by the names of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bola- bola, hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had latterly been sparingly supplied at Otaheite, might be procured in great plenty. The lieutenant, however, was desirous of first examining an island that lav to the northward, and was called Tethuroa. Accordingly, he came near it; but having found it to be only a small low island, and being told, at the same time, that it had no settled inhabitants, he determined to drop any fur- ther examination of it, and to go in search of Huaheine and Ulietea, which were described to be well peopled, and as large as Otaheite.
On the loth of July, the weather being hazy, with light breezes and calms succeeding each other, so that no land could be seen, and little way was made, Tupia aflbrded an amusing proof, that, in the exercise of his priestly character, he knew how to unite some degree of art with his superstition. He often prayed for a wind to his god Tane, and as often boasted of his suc- cess. This, indeed, he took a most effectual method lo secure ; for he never began his address to his divinity.
36 CAPTAIN COOK'S
till he perceived the breeze to be so near, that he knew it must approach the ship before his supplication could well be brought to a conclusion.
The Endeavour, on the 16th, being close in with the north-west part of Huaheine, some canoes soon came off, iu one of which was the king of the island and his wife. At first the people seemed afraid ; but, upon seeing Tupia, their apprehensions were in part dis- persed, and, at length, in consequence of frequent and earnestly repeated assurances of friendship, their ma- jesties, and several others, ventured on board the ship. Their astonishment at every thing which was shown them was very great ; and yet their curiosity did not extend to any objects but what were particularly pointed out to their notice. When they had become more familiar, Mr. Cook was given to understand, that the king was called Oree, and that he proposed, as a mark of amity, their making an exchange of their names. To this our commander readily consented ; and, during the remainder of their being together, the lieutenant was Oree, and his majesty was Cookee. In the after- noon, the Endeavour having come to an anchor, in a small but excellent harbour on the west side of the island, the name of which was Owharre, Mr. Cook, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monk- house, Tupia, and the natives who had been on board ever since the morning, immediately went on shore. The English gentlemen repeated their excursions on the two following days; in the course of which they found that the people of Huaheine had a very near resemblance to those of Otaheite, in person, dress, language, and every other circumstance ; and that the productions of the country were exactly similar.
In trafficking with our people, the inhabitants of Huaheine displayed a caution and hesitation which rendered the dealing with them slow and tedious. On the 19th, therefore, the English were obliged to bring out some hatchets, which it was at first hoped there would be no occasion for, in an island that had never before been visited by any European. These procured three very large hogs ; and as it was proposed to sail
FIRST VOYAGE. 37
in the afternoon, Oree and several others came on board to take their leave. To the king Mr. Cook gave a small pewter plate, on which was stamped this inscrip- tion ; " His Britannic Majesty's ship Endeavour, Lieu- tenant James Cook, commander, 16th July, 1769, Hua- heine." Among other presents made to Oree, were some medals or counters, resembling the coin of Eng- land, and struck in the year 1761 ; all of which, and particularly the plate, he promised carefully and invio- lably to preserve. This the lieutenant thought to be as lasting a testimony as any he could well provide, that the English had first discovered the island ; and having dismissed his visitors, who were highly pleased with the treatment they had met with, he sailed for Ulietea, in a good harbour of which he anchored the next day.
Tupia had expressed his apprehension, that our na- vigators, if they landed upon the island, would be ex- posed to the attacks of the men of Bolabola, whom he represented as having lately conquered it, and of whom he entertained a very formidable idea. This, however, did not deter Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the other gentlemen, from going immediately on shore. Tupia, who was of the party, introduced them, by per- forming some ceremonies which he had practised be- fore at Huaheine. After this, the lieutenant hoisted an English jack, and, in the name of his Britannic ma- jestv, took possession of Ulietea, and the three neigh- bouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, all of which were in sight.
On the 21st, the master was dispatched in the long- boat, to examine the coast of the south part of the island ; and one of the mates was sent in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay. At the same time Lieutenant Cook went himself in the pin- nace, to survey that part of Ulietea which lies to the north. Mr. Banks, likewise, and the gentlemen again went on shore, and employed themselves in trading with the natives, and in examining the productions and curiosities of the country ; but they saw nothing worthy of notice, excepting some human jawbones, which, like
38 CAPTAIN COOK'S
scalps among the Indians of North America, were trophies of war, and had prohably been hung up, bj the warriors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest.
The weather being hazy on the 22d and 23d, with strong gales, the lieutenant did not venture to put to sea ; but, on the 24th, though the wind continued to be variable, he got under sail, and plied to the north- ward within the reef, purposing to go out at a wider opening than that by which he had entered the harbour. However, in doing this, he was in imminent danger of striking on the rock. The master, who by his order had kept continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called out, " two fathom." Though our commander knew that the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and consequently that the shoal could not possibly be under her keel, he was, nevertheless, justly alarmed. Happily, the master was either mistaken, or the Endeavour went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands, are as steep as a wall.
After a tedious navigation of some days, during which several small islands were seen, and the long- boat landed at Otaha, Lieutenant Cook returned to Ulietea, but to a different part of it from that which he had visited before. In a harbour, belonging to the west side of the island, he came to an anchor on the 1st of August. This measure was necessary, in order to stop a leak which the ship had sprung in the powder- room, and to take in more ballast, as she was found too light to carry sail upon a wind. The place where the Endeavour was secured was conveniently situated for the lieutenant's purpose of obtaining ballast and water.
Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the gentlemeu who went on shore this day, spent their time much to their satisfaction. The reception they met was respectful in the highest degree, and the behaviour of the Indians to the English indicated a fear of them, mixed with a con- fidence that they had no propensity to commit any kind of injury. In an intercourse which the lieutenant and his friends carried on, for several days, with the inha- bitants of this part of the island, it appeared that the terrors which Tupia had expressed of the Bolabola
FIRST VOYAGE. 39
conquerors were wholly groundless. Even Opoonv, the formidable king of Bolabola, treated our navigators with respect. Being at Ulietea on the 5th of August, he sent Mr. Cook a present of three hogs, some fowls, and several pieces of cloth, of uncommon length, toge- ther with a considerable quantity of plantains, cocoa- nuts, and other refreshments. This present was ac- companied with a message, that, on the next day, he intended to pay our commander a visit. Accordingly, on the 6th, the lieutenant and the rest of the gentle- men all staid at home, in expectation of this important visitor; who did not, however, make his appearance, but sent three very pretty girls as his messengers, to demand something in return for his present. In the afternoon, as the great king would not go to the Eng- lish, the English determined to go to the great king. From the account which had been given of him, as lord of the Bolabola men, who were the conquerors of Ulietea, and the terror of all the other islands, Lieu- tenant Cook and his companions expected to see a young and vigorous chief, with an intelligent counte- nance, and the marks of an enterprising spirit ; instead of which, they found a feeble wretch, withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid, that he scarcely appeared to be possessed even of a common degree of understanding. Otaha being the principal place of Opoony's residence, he went with our navigators to that island on the next day ; and they were in hopes of deriving some advantage from his in- fluence, in obtaining such provision as they wanted. In this respect, however, they were disappointed ; for, though they had presented him with an axe, as an in- ducement to him to encourage his subjects in dealing with them, they were obliged to leave him without having procured a single article.
The time which the carpenters had taken up in stop- ping the leak of the ship having detained our voyagers longer at Ulietea than they would otherwise have staid, Lieutenant Cook determined to give up the design of going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be difficult of access. The principal islands, about
40 CAPTAIN COOK 5
which the English had now spent somewhat more than three weeks, were six in number ; Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua. As they lie contiguous to each other, the lieutenant gave them the general appellation of the Society Islands ; but did not think proper to distinguish them separately by any other names than those by which they were called by the natives.
On the 9th of August, the leak of the vessel having been stopped, and the fresh stock that had been pur- chased being brought on board, our commander took the opportunity of a breeze which sprang up at east, and sailed out of the harbour. As he was sailing away, Tupia strongly urged him to fire a shot towards Bola- bola ; and, though that island was at seven leagues dis- tance, the lieutenant obliged him by complying with his request. Tupia's views probably were, to display a mark of his resentment, and to show the power of his new allies.
Our voyagers pursued their course, without meeting with any event worthy of notice, till the 13th, when land was discovered, bearing south-east, and which Tupia informed them to be an island called Oheteroa. On the next day, Mr. Cook sent Mr. Gore, one of his lieutenants, in the pinnace, with orders, that he should endeavour to get on shore, and learn from the natives, whether there was anchorage in a bay then in sight, and what land lay further to the southward. Mr. Gore was accompanied in this expedition by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, who used every method, but in vain, to conciliate the minds of the inhabitants, and to engage them in a friendly intercourse. As, upon making the circuit of the island, neither harbour nor anchorage could be found upon it, and at the same time, the disposition of the people was so hostile, that landing would be rendered impracticable without bloodshed, Mr. Cook determined, with equal wisdom and humanity, not to attempt it, having no motive that could justify the risk of life.
From Tupia our navigators learned, that there were various islands lying at different distances and in dif-
FIRST VOYAGE. 41
rrrent directions from Oheteroa, between the south and the north-west ; and that to the north-east there was an island called Manua, Bird Island. This he represented as being at the distance of three day's sail ; but he seemed most desirous that Lieutenant Cook should proceed to the westward, and described several islands in that situation, which he said he had \isited. It ap- peared, from his description of them, that these were probably Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, which were discovered by Captain Wallis. The furthest island, that Tupia knew of to the southward, lay, he said, at the distance of about two days sail from Oheteroa, and was called Montou. But he added, that his father had informed him of there being islands still more to the south. Upon the whole, our commander determined to stand southward in search of a continent, and to lose no time in attempting to discover any other islands, than such as he might happen to fall in with during his course.
On the 15th of August, our voyagers sailed from Oheteroa ; and, on the 25th of the same month was celebrated the anniversary of their departure from England. The comet was seen on the 30th. It was a little above the horizon, in the eastern part of the heavens, at one in the morning ; and at about half an hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail sub- tended an angle of forty-two degrees. Tupia, who was among others that observed the comet, instantly cried out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Bolabola, thev would attack the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would be obliged to endeavour to preserve their lives by fleeing with the utmost precipitation to the mountains.
On the 6th of October land was discovered, which appeared to be large. When, on the next day, it was more distinctly visible, it assumed a still larger ap- pearance, and displayed four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, above all which was a chain of mountains of an enormous height. This land natu- rally became the subject of much eager conversation ; and the general opinion of the gentlemen on board the
42 CAPTAIN COOK'S
Endeavour was, that they had found the Terra australis incognita. In fact, it was a part of New Zealand, where the first adventures the English met with were wery unpleasant, on account of the hostile disposition of the inhabitants.
Lieutenant Cook having anchored, on the 8th, in a bay, at the entrance of a small river, went on shore in , the evening, with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and attended with a party of men. Being desirous of conversing with some natives, whom he had observed on the opposite side of the river from that on which he had landed, he ordered the yawl in, to carry himself and his companions over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When thev came near the place where the Indians were assembled, the latter all ran away ; and the gentlemen, having left four hoys to take care of the yawl, walked up to several huts, which were about two or three hundred yards from the water-side. They had not gone very far, when four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and, running up to attack the boat, would cer- tainly have cut her off, if they had not been discovered by the people in the pinnace, who called to the boys to drop down the stream. The bovs instantly obeyed ; but being closely pursued by the natives, the cockswain of the pinnace, to whom the charge of the boats was com- mitted, fired a musket over their heads. At this they stopped and looked around them ; but their alarm speedily subsiding, they brandished their lances in a threatening manner, and in a few minutes renewed the pursuit. The firing of a second musket over their heads did not draw from them any kind of notice. At last, one of them having lifted up his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, by which he was shot dead. At the fall of their associate, the three remain- ing Indians stood for awhile motionless, and seemed petrified with astonishment. No sooner had they re- covered themselves, than they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which, however, they were obliged to leave, that it might not retard their flight. Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who had straggled to
FIRST VOYAGE. 43
a little distance from each other, were drawn together upon the report of the first musket, and returned speedily to the boat, in which having- crossed the river, they soon beheld the Indian lying dead upon the ground. After their return to the ship, they could hear the people on shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone of voice.
Notwithstanding this disaster, the lieutenant, being desirous of establishing an intercourse with the natives, ordered, on the following day, three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, and Tupia. About fifty of the inha- bitants seemed to wait for their landing, having seated themselves upon the ground, on the opposite side of the river. This being regarded as a sign of fear, Mr. Cook, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, advanced towards them ; but they had not gone many paces before all the Indians started up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a small weapon of green talk. Though Tupia called to them in the language of Otaheite, they only answered by flourishing their wea- pons, and making signs for the gentlemen to depart. On a musket's being fired wide of them, they desisted from their threats ; and our commander, who had pru- dently retreated till the marines could be landed, again advanced towards them, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, to whom were now added Mr. Green and Mr. Monkhouse. Tupia was a second time directed to speak to them, and it was perceived with great pleasure that he was perfectly understood, his and their language being the same, excepting only in a diversity of dialect. He informed them that our voyagers only wanted pro- v ision and water, in exchange for iron, the properties of which he explained as far as he was able. Though the natives seemed willing to trade, Tupia was sensible, during the course of his conversation with them, that their intentions were unfriendly; and of this he re- peatedly warned the English gentlemen. At length, twenty or thirty of the Indians were induced to cross the river, upon which presents were made them of iron
44 CAPTAIN COOK'S
and beads. On these they appeared to set little value, and particularly on the iron, not having the least con- ception of its use, so that nothing was obtained in return excepting a few feathers. Their arms, indeed, they offered to exchange for those of our voyagers, and this being refused, they made various attempts to snatch them out of their hands. Tupia was now instructed to acquaiut the Indians, that our gentlemen would be obliged to kill them, if they proceeded to any further violence ; notwithstanding which, one of them, while Mr. Green happened to turn about, seized his hanger, and retired to a little distance, with a shout of exulta- tion. The others, at the same time, began to be ex- tremely insolent, and more of the natives were seen coming to join them from the opposite side of the river. It being, therefore, necessary to repress them, Mr. Banks fired, with small shot, at the distance of about fifteen yards, upon the man who had taken the hanger. Though he was struck, he did not return the hanger, but continued to wave it round his head, while he slowly made his retreat. Mr. Monkhouse then fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. So far, how- ever, were the Indians from being sufficiently terrified, that the main body of them, who, upon the first dis- charge, had retired to a rock in the middle of the river, began to return, and it was with no small difficulty that Mr. Moukhouse secured the hanger. The whole num- ber of them continuing to advance, three of the English party discharged their pieces at them, loaded only with small shot, upon which they swam back for the shore, and it appeared, upon their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. While they retired slowlv up the country, Lieutenant Cook and his companions re- embarked in their boats.
As the lieutenant had unhappily experienced that nothing, at this place, could be done with these people, and found that the water in the river was salt, he pro- ceeded, in the boats, rouud the head of the bav, in search of fresh water. Beside this, he had formed a design of surprising some of the natives, and taking them on board, that, by kind treatment and presents,
FIRST VOYAGE. 45
he might obtain their friendship, and render them the instruments of establishing for him an amicable inter- course with their countrymen. While, upon account of a dangerous surf which every Avhere beat upon the shore, the boats were prevented from landing, our commander saw two canoes coming in from the sea, one under sail, and the other worked with paddles. This he thought to be a favourable opportunity for executing his purpose. Accordingly, the boats were disposed in such a manner as appeared most likely to be successful in intercepting the canoes. Notwith- standing this, the Indians, in the canoe which was pad- dled, exerted themselves with so much vigour, at the first apprehension of danger, that they escaped to the nearest land. The other canoe sailed on without dis- cerning the English, till she was in the midst of them ; but no sooner had she discovered them, than the people on board struck their sail, and plied their paddles so briskly, as to outrun the boat by which they were pur- sued. Being within hearing, Tupia called to them to come alongside, with assurances, that they should not in any degree be hurt or injured. They trusted, however, more to their own paddles, than to Tupia's promises, and continued to flee from our navigators with all their power. Mr. Cook, as the least exceptionable expedient of accomplishing bis design, ordered a musket to be fired over their heads. This, he hoped, would either make them surrender, or leap into the water, but it produced a contrary effect. The Indians, who were seven in number, immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight. When, therefore, the boat came up, they began to attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons ; and they carried it on with so much vigour and violence, that the English thought themselves obliged to fire upon them in their own defence ; the consequence of which was, that four were unhappily killed. The other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water, and endeavoured to make their escape ; but being with some difficulty overpow-> ered by our people, they were brought into the boat.
i(» CAFTAN COOK'S
It is impossible to refloat upon this part of Lieutenant Cook's conduct with anv degree of satisfaction. Be, himself, upon a calm re\ lew, did not approve of it ; ami he was sensible that it would be < ensured b\ the feel- ings of nm reader of humanitv. It is probable that his mind was so far irritated by the disagreeable pre- ceding e\ents of this unfortunate day, and bv the une\- pected violence of the Indian in the canoe, as to tone somewhat of that self-possession, bv which his character in general waseminenth distingnished. Candour, lu>w- ever, requires that I should relate what he hath offered in extenuation, not in defence, of the transaction ; and this shall be done in his own words. " These people certainly did not deserve death for not choosing to eon- fide in ni\ promises, or not consenting to come on board m\ boat, even if they had apprehended no danger. But the nature of mv Bervice required ate to obtain a know- ledge of their country, which I could no otherwise effect, than by forcing mv wa\ into it in a hostile man- ner, or gaining admission through the confidence ami goodwill of the people. I had already tried the power of presents without effect : and 1 was now prompted, bv mv desire to avoid further hostilities, to <;et some of them on board, as the only method left of convincing them, that we intended them no harm, and had it in our jiower to contribute to their gratification and con- venience. Thus far my intentions certainlv were not criminal; and though in the contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory night have been complete without so great an expense of life; vet in such situations, when the command to fire has bo ■ given, no man can restrain its excess, or pit scribe its effect."
Our voyagera were successful in conciliating the minds of the three bovs, to which Tupia particularly contributed. "\\ hen their fears were allayed, and their cheerfulness returned, they same a son^ with a degree of taste, that surprised the English gentlemen. The tune, like those of our psalms, was solemn and slow, containing many notes ami semitones.
Some further attempts were made to establish an in-
nun voyage. 47
bMBN \\ ith tin; natives, and Mr. Cook and his lri< nds, on the IOUj, went M shore for that purpose ; hut being ni—flWffill in their endea\ours, they re- solved to malum! lest their stay should emhroil them in another quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. On the next day the lieutenant weighed anchor, and stood a\va\ from this unfortunate and inhospitable place. As it had not afforded a single article that was muted excepting wood, he gave it the name of Poverty Bay. B\ the inhabitants it if called Taoneroa, or Long Sand. I shall not regularly pursue the course of our commander round New Zealand. In this course he spent nearly six months, and made large additions to tin- knowledge of navigation and geography. By mak- ing almost the whole circuit of Men Zealand, he ascer- tained it to he two islands, with a strength of evidence which no prejudice <ould ^ain-ay or resist. He OD- tained, likewise, a full acquaintance with the inhabit- ants of the different parts of the country, with regard to whom it was clearly proved, that they are eaters of human flesh. Omitting a number of minute cireum stances, I shall only select a lew things which mark Mr. Cook's personal conduct, and relate to his inter- course with the natives.
The good usage the three boys had met with, and the friendly and generous manner in which they were dMBOMted to their own homes, bad some effect in soft- ening the dispositions of the neighbouring Indians. •Several of them, who had come on board while the ship lav becalmed in the afternoon, manifest' d every sign of friendship, and cordially in\ ited the English to go back to their old bay, or to a cove which was not quite so far off. But Lieutenant Cook chose rather to proserin. his discoveries, ha\ injr reason to hope that he should find a better harbour than any he had yet seen.
While the ship was hauling round to the south end of a small island, which the lieutenant had named Port land, from its \er\ ^reat resemblance to Portland in the British Channel, she suddenly fell into shoal water and broken ground. Tin loundings were never twice the same, jumping at once from serea fathom to (lev en.
43 CAPTAIN COOK'S
However, they were always seven fathom or mere ; and in a short time the Endeavour got clear of danger, and again sailed in deep water. While the ship was in apparent distress, the inhabitants of the island, who in vast numbers sat on its white cliffs, and could not avoid perceiving some appearance of confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working of the vessel, were desirous of taking advantage of her critical situation. Accordingly, five canoes, full of men, and well armed, were put oft' with the utmost expedition ; and they came so near, and showed so hostile a disposition, by shout- ing, brandishing their lances, and using threatening gestures, that the lieutenant was in pain for his small boat, which was still employed in sounding. By a musket, which he ordered to be fired over them, they were rather provoked than intimidated. The firing of a four pounder, loaded with grape shot, though pur- posely discharged wide of them, produced a better effect. Upon the report of the piece, the Indians all rose up and shouted ; but, instead of continuing the chase, they collected themselves together, and, after a short con- sultation, went quietly away.
On the 14th of October, Lieutenant Cook having hoisted out his pinnace and long-boat to search for water, just as they were about to set off, several boats, full of the New Zealand people, were seen coming from the shore. After some time, five of these boats, having on board between eighty and ninety men, made towards the ship ; and four more followed at no great distance, as if to sustain the attack. When the first five had got- ten within about a hundred yards of the Endeavour, they began to sing their war song, and, brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. As the lieu- tenant was extremely desirous of avoiding the unhappy necessity of using tire arms against the natives, Tupia was ordered to acquaint them, that our voyagers had weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a moment ; that they would immediately convince them of their power, by directing their effect so that they should not be hurt ; but that, if they persisted in any hostile attempt, they would be exposed to the direct
FIRST VOYAGE. 49
attack of these formidable weapons. A four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was then fired wide of them ; and this expedient was fortunately attended with success. The report, the flash, and, above all, the shot, which spread very far in the water, terrified the Indians to such a degree, that they began to paddle away with all their might. At the instance, however, of Tupia, the people of one of the boats were induced to lay aside their arms, and to come under the stern of the Endea- vour : in consequence of which they received a variety of presents.
On the next day a circumstance occurred, which showed how ready one of the inhabitants of New Zea- land was to take an advantage of our navigators. In a large armed canoe, which came boldly alongside of the ship, was a man who had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat like that of a bear. Mr. Cook being desirous of knowing to what animal it originally be- longed, offered the Indian for it a piece of red baize. \A ith this bargain he seemed to be greatly pleased, im- mediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in the boat. He would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in his possession ; and as there could be no transfer of propert3r, if equal caution should be exer- cised on both sides, the lieutenant ordered the baize to be delivered into his hands. Upon this, instead of send- ing up the skin, he began, with amazing coolness, to pack up both that and the cloth, which he had received as the purchase of it, in a basket : nor did he pay the least regard to Mr. Cook's demand or remonstrances, but soon after put off from the English vessel. Our commander was too generous to revenge this insult by any act of severity.
During the course of a traffic which was carrying on for some fish, little Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was placed among others over the ship's side, to hand up what was purchased. While he was thus employed, one of the New Zealanders, watching his opportunity, suddenly seized him, and dragged him into a canoe. Two of the Datives then held him down in the fore part of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her off, with all
VOL. I. E
50 CAPTAIN COOK'S
possible celerity. An action so violent rendered it in- dispensably necessary that the marines, who were in arms upon the deck, should be ordered to fire. Though the shot was directed to that part of the canoe which was furthest from the boy, and somewhat wide of her, it being thought favourable, rather to miss the rowers than to run the hazard of hurting Tayeto, it happened that one man dropped. This occasioned the Indians to quit their hold of the youth, who instantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship. In the mean- while, the largest of the canoes pulled round and fol- lowed him ; and till some muskets and a great gun were fired at her, did not desist from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was lowered, and the poor boy was taken up unhurt. Some of the gentlemen, who with their glasses traced the canoes to shore, agreed in asserting, that they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to be either dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds.
While, on the 18th, the Endeavour lay abreast of a peninsula within Portland Island, called Terakako, two of the natives, who were judged to be chiefs, placed an extraordinary degree of confidence in Mr. Cook. They were so well pleased with the kindness which had been shown them in a visit to the ship, that the}- determined not to go on shore till the next morning. This was a circumstance by no means agreeable to the lieutenant, and he remonstrated against it ; but as they persisted in their resolution, he agreed to comply with it, provided their servants were also taken on board, and their canoe hoisted into the ship. The countenance of one of these, two chiefs was the most open and ingenuous that our commander had ever seen, so that he soon gave up every suspicion of his entertaining any sinister design. When the guests were put on shore the next morning, they expressed some surprise at seeing themselves so far from their habitations.
On Monday the 23d, while the ship was in Tegadoo Bay, Lieutenant Cook went on shore to examine the watering-place, and found every thing agreeable to his wishes. The boat landed in the cove, without the least
FIRST VOYAGE. 51
surf; the water was excellent, and conveniently situ- ated ; there was plenty of wood close to the high water mark, and the disposition of the people was as favour- able in all respects as could be desired. Early the next morning, our commander sent Lieutenant Gore to su- perintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with a sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the marines, as a guard. Soon after he went on shore himself, and continued there during the whole day. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had landed on the same day, found in their walks several things worthy of notice. As they were advancing in some of the val- leys, the hills on each side of which were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of an extra- ordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock, perforated through its whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern, opening directly to the sea. This aperture was seventy-five feet long, twenty-seven broad, aud five and forty feet high, commanding a view of the bay and the hills on the other side, which Avere seen through it ; and opening at once upon the view, produced an effect far superior to any of the contriv- ances of art.
When on the 28th, the gentlemen of the Endeavour went on shore, upon an island which lies to the left hand of the entrance of TolagaBay, they saw there the largest canoe they had yet met with ; her length being sixty- eight feet and a half, her breadth five feet, and her height three feet six inches. In the same island was a larger house than any they had hitherto seen ; but it was in an unfinished state, and full of chips.
While the ship was in Hicks's Bay, the inhabitants of the adjoining coast were found to be very hostile. This gave much uneasiness to our navigators, and was, indeed, contrary to their expectation; for they had hoped, that the report of their power and clemency had spread to a greater extent. At daybreak, on the 1st of November, they counted no less than five and forty canoes, that were coming from the shore towards the Endeavour ; and these were followed by several more, from auother place. Some of the Indians traded fairly ;
52 CAPTAIN COOK'S
but others of them took what was handed down to them without making airy return, and added derision to fraud. The insolence of one of them was very remarkable. Some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, this man, without any ceremony, untied it, and put it up in his bundle. Being immediately called to, and required to return it, instead of doing so, he let his canoe drop astern, and laughed at the English. A musket, which was fired over his head, did not put a stop to his mirth. From a second musket, which was loaded with small shot, he shrunk a little, when the shot struck him upon Ins back ; but he regarded it no more than one of our men would have done the stroke of a rattan, and con- tinued with great composure to pack up the linen which he had stolen. All the canoes now dropped astern, and set up their song of defiance, which lasted till they were at about four hundred yards distance from the ship. As they did not appear to have a design of attacking our voyagers, Lieutenant Cook was unwilling to do them any hurt ; and yet he thought that their going off in a bravado might have a bad effect, when it should be re- ported on shore. To convince them, therefore, that they were still in his power, though far beyond the reach of any missile weapon with which they were acquainted, he ordered a four pounder to be fired in such a manner as to pass near them. As the shot happened to strike the water, and to rise several times at a great distance beyond the canoes, the Indians were so much terrified, that, without once looking behind them, they paddled away as fast as they were able.
In standing westward from a small island called Mow- tohora, the Endeavour suddenly shoaled her water from seventeen to ten fathom. As the lieutenant knew that she was not far off from some small islands and rocks, which had been seen before it was dark, and which he had intended to have passed that evening, he thought it more prudent to tack, and to spend the night under Mowtohora, where he was certain that there was no danger. It was happy for himself, and for all our voy- agers, that he formed this resolution. In the morning thev discovered, ahead of them, several rocks, some of
FIRST VOYAGE. 53
which were level with the surface of the water, and some below it ; and the striking against which could not, in the hour of darkness, have been avoided. In passing between these rocks and the main, the ship had only from ten to seven fathom water.
While Mr. Cook was near an island which he called the Mayor, the inhabitants of the neighbouring coast displayed many instances of hostility, and, in their traffic with our navigators, committed various acts of fraud and robbery. As the lieutenant intended to continue in the place five or six days, in order to make an ob- servation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary, for the prevention of future mischief, to con- vince these people that the English were not to be ill treated with impunity. Accordingly, some small shot were fired at a thief of unconunon insolence, and a mus- ket ball was discharged through the bottom of his boat. Upon this it was paddled to about a hundred yards dis- tance ; and to the surprise of Mr. Cook and his friends, the Indians in the other canoes took not the least notice of their wounded companion, though he bled verv much, but returned to the ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect indifference and unconcern. For a considerable time they dealt fairly. At last, however, one of them thought fit to move off with two different pieces of cloth which had been given for the same wea- pon. "W hen he had gotten to such a distance, that he thought himself secure of his prizes, a musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes in her side. This ex- cited such an alarm, that not only the people who were shot at, but all the rest of the canoes, made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of superiority, our commander ordered a round shot to be fired over them, and not a boat stopped till they got to land.
After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, Lieutenant Cook went on shore, with Mr. Green, and proper instruments, to observe the transit of Mercury. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of the party. The weather had for some time been verv thick, with much rain ; but this day proved so fav ourable, that not a cloud
54 CAPTAIN COOK'S
intervened during the whole transit. The Observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, Mr. Cook being employed in taking the sun's altitude to ascertain the time.
While the gentlemen were thus engaged on shore, they were alarmed by the firing of a great gun from the ship : and, on their return, received the following account of the transaction from Mr. Gore, the second lieutenant, who had been left commanding officer on board. During the carrying on of a trade with some small canoes, two very large ones came up full of men. In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons, all of whom were armed with pikes, stones, and darts, and assumed the appearance of a hostile intention. How- ever, after a little time, they began to traffic, some of them offering their arms, and one of them a square piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called haabow. Mr. Gore having agreed for it, sent down the price, which was a piece of British cloth, and expected his purchase. But as soon as the Indian had gotten Mr. Gore's cloth in his possession, he refused to part with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon being threat- ened for his fraud, he and his companions began to sing their war song in defiance, and shook their paddles. Though their insolence did not proceed to an attack, and only defied Mr. Gore to take any remedy in his power, he was so provoked, that he levelled a musket, loaded with ball, at the offender, while he was holding the cloth in his hand, and shot him dead. When the Indian fell, all the canoes put off to some distance, but continued to keep together in such a manner, that it was apprehended they might still meditate an attack. To secure, therefore, a safe passage for the boat of the Endeavour, which was wanted on shore, a round shot was fired witli so much effect over their heads, as to make them all flee with the utmost precipitation. It was matter of regret to Lieutenant Cook that Mr. Gore had not, in the case of the offending Indian, tried the experiment of a few small shot, which had been success- ful in former instances of robbery. ■ On Friday, the 10th, our commander, accompanied
FIRST VOYAGE. 55
by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, went with two boats, to examine a large river that empties itself into the head of Mercury Bay. As the situation they were now in abounded with conveniences, the lieutenant has taken care to point them out, for the benefit of future navigators. If any occasion should ever render it ne- cessarv for a ship either to winter here, or to stay for a considerable length of time, tents might be built on a high point or peninsula in this place, upon ground sufficiently spacious for the purpose ; and they might easily be made impregnable to the whole force of the country. Indeed the most skilful engineer in Europe could not choose a situation better adapted to enable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. Among: other accommodations which the Endeavour's company met with in Mercury Bay, they derived an agreeable refreshment from some oyster beds, which they had fortunately discovered. The oysters, which were as good as ever came from Colchester, and about the same size, were so plentiful, that not the boat only, but the ship itself, might have been loaded in one tide. On Wednesday, the loth, Lieutenant Cook sailed out of Mercury Bay. This name had been given to it, on account of the observation which had there been made of the transit of that planet over the sun. The river where oysters had been so plentifully found, he called Oyster River. There is another river, at the head of the bay, which is the best and safest place for a ship that wants to stay any length of time. From the number of mangroves about it, the lieutenant named it Mangrove River. In several parts of Mercury Bay, our voyagers saw, thrown upon the shore, great quan- tities of iron sand, which is brought down by every little rivulet of fresh w rater that finds its way from the countrv. This is a demonstration, that there is ore of that metal not far inland ; and yet none of the inhabi- tants of New Zealand, who had yet been seen, knew the use of iron, or set upon it the least degree of value. They bad all of them preferred the most worthless and useless trifle not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. Before the Endeavour left the bay, the ship's
56 CAPTAIN COOKS
name and that of the commander were cut upon one oF the trees near the watering place, together with the date of the year and month when our navigators were there. Besides this, Mr. Cook, after displaying the English colours, took formal possession of the place in the name of his Britannic Majesty, King George the Third.
In the range from Mercury Bay, several canoes, on the 18th, put off from different places, and advanced towards the Endeavour. When two of them, in which there might be about sixty men, came within the reach of the human voice, the Indians sung their war song ; but seeing that little notice Avas taken of them, they threw a few stones at the English, and then rowed off towards the shore. In a short time, however, they returned, as if with a fixed resolution to provoke our voyagers to a battle, animating themselves by their song as they had done before. Tupia, without any directions from the gentlemen of the Endeavour, began to expostulate with the natives, and told them that our people had weapons which could destroy them in a moment. Their answer to this expostulation was, in their own language, " Come on shore, and we will kill you all."—" Well," replied Tupia, " but why should you molest us while we are at sea 1 As we do not wish to fight, we shall not accept your challenge to come on shore ; and here there is no pretence for a quarrel, the sea being no more your property than the ship." This eloquence, which greatly surprised Lieutenant Cook and his friends, as they had not suggested to Tupia any of the arguments he made use of, produced no effect upon the minds of the Indians, who soon renewed then- attack. The oratory of a musket, which was fired through one of their boats, quelled their courage, and sent them instantly away.
While our commander was in the Bay of Islands, he had a favourable opportunity of examining the interior part of the country and its produce. At day break, therefore, on the 30th of the month, he set out in the pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by Mr. Banks. Dr.Solander, and Tupia. aud found the inlet, at which
FIRST VOYAGE. 57
they entered, end in a river, about nine miles above the ship. Up this river, to which was given the name of the Thames, they proceeded till near noon, when they were fourteen miles within its entrance. As the gen- tlemen then found the face of the country to continue nearly the same, without any alteration in the course of the stream, and had no hope of tracing it to its source, they landed on the west side, to take a view of the lofty trees which every where adorned its banks. The trees were of a kind which they had seen before, both in Poverty Bay, and Hawke's Bay, though only at a distance. They had not walked a hundred yards into the woods, when they met with one of the trees, which, at the height of six feet above the ground, was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt. Lieutenant Cook, having a quadrant with him, measured its height from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty- nine feet. It was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in proportion to its height ; so that, in the lieutenant's judgment, there must have been three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclu- sive of the branches. As the party advanced, they saw many other trees, which were still larger. A young one they cut down, the wood of which was heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make the finest plank in the world. The carpenter of the ship, who was with the party, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, which is lightened by tapping. If it should appear, that some such method would be successful in lightening these trees, they would then furnish masts superior to those of any country in Eu- rope. As the wood was swampy, the gentlemen could not range far ; but they found many stout trees of other kinds, with which they were totally unacquainted, and specimens of which they brought away.
On the 22d, another instance occurred, in which the commanding officer left on board did not know how to exercise his power with the good sense and moderation of Mr. Cook. While some of the natives were in the ship below with Mr. Banks, a young man, who was upon the deck, stole a half-minute glass, and was de-
58 CAPTAIN COOK'S
tected just as he was carrying it oft*. Mr. Hicks, in his indignation against the offender, was pleased to order that he shonld be punished, by giving him twelve lashes with a cat o'nine tails. When the other Indians, who were on board, saw him seized for the purpose, they attempted to rescue him ; and being resisted, they called for their arms, which were handed from the canoes. At the same time, the people of one of the canoes attempted to come up the side of the Endea- vour. The tumult having called up Mr. Banks and Tupia, the natives ran to the latter, and solicited his interposition. All, however, which he could do, as Mr. Hicks continued inexorable, was to assure them, that nothing was intended against the life of their com- panion, and that it was necessary that he should suffer some punishment for his offence. With this explana- tion they appeared to be satisfied ; and when the punish- ment had been inflicted, an old man among the specta- tors, who was supposed to be the criminal's father, gave him a severe beating, and sent him down into his canoe. Notwithstanding this, the Indians were far from being reconciled to the treatment which their countrvman had received. Their cheerful confidence was gone ; and though they promised, at their depar- ture, to return with some fish, the English saw them no more.
On the 29th of November, Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others with them, were in a situation somewhat critical and alarming. Having landed upon an island in the neighbourhood of Cape Bret, they Avere in a few minutes surrounded by two or three hundred people. Though the Indians were all armed, they came on in so confused and straggling a manner, that it did not appear that any injury was intended by them ; and the English gentlemen were determined that hostilities should not begin on their part. At first the natives continued quiet ; but their weapons were held ready to strike, and they seemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While the lieu- tenant and his friends remained in a state of suspense, another party of Indians came up ; and the boldness of
FIRST VOYAGE. 59
the whole body being increased by the augmentation of their numbers, they began the dance and song, which are their preludes to a battle. An attempt, that was made by a number of them, to seize the two boats which had brought our voyagers to land, appeared to be the signal for a general attack. It no w became ne- cessary for Mr. Cook to exert himself with vigour. Accordinglv, he discharged his musket, which was loaded with small shot, at one of the forwardest of the assailants, and Mr. Banks, and two of our men, fired immediately afterwards. Though this made the natives fall back in some confusion, nevertheless, one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty yards, had the courage to rally them, and, calling loudlv to his companions, led them on to the charge. Dr. Solander instantly discharged his piece at this champion, who, upon feeling the shot, stopped short, and then ran away with the rest of his countrymen. Still, however, they did not disperse, but got upon rising ground, and seemed only to want some leader of resolution to renew their assault. As they were now gotten beyond ihe reach of small shot, the English fired with ball, none of which taking place, the Indians continued together in a body. While our people were in this doubtful situation, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the ship, from which a much greater num- ber of natives were seen than could be discovered on shore, brought her broadside to bear, and entirely dis- persed them, by firing a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish, only two of them were hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost ; a case which would not have happened if Lieutenant Cook had not restrained his men, who, either from fear or the love of mischief, showed as much impatience to destroy the Indians, as a sportsman to kill his game. Such was the difference between the disposition of the common sea- men and marines, and that of their humane and judicious commander.
On the same day Mr. Cook displayed a very exem- plary act of discipline. Some of the ship's people, who, when the natives were to be punished for a fraud,
60 CAPTAIN COOK'S
assumed the inexorable justice of a Lyeurgus, thought fit to break into one of their plantations, and to dig up a quantity of potatoes. For this the lieutenant ordered each of them to receive twelve lashes, after which two of them were discharged. But the third, in a singular strain of morality, insisted upon it, that it was no crime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian planta- tion. The method taken by our commander to refute his casuistry, was to send him back to his confinement, and not to permit him to be released, till he had been punished with six lashes more.
The Endeavour, on the 5th of December, was in the most imminent hazard of being wrecked. At four o'clock in the morning of that day our voyagers weighed, with a light breeze ; but it being variable with frequent calms, they made little way. From that time till the afternoon they kept turning out of the bay, and about ten at night were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship could neither wear nor exactly keep her station. The tide or current setting strong, she drove toward land so fast, that before any measures could be taken for her security, she was within a cable's length of the breakers. Though our people had thirteen fathom water, the ground was so foul, that they did not dare to drop their anchor. In this crisis, the pinnace being immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting them selves to the utmost, a faint breeze sprang up off the land, and our navigators perceived, with unspeakable joy, that the vessel made headway. So near was she to the shore, that Tupia, who was ignorant of the hair's breadth escape the company had experienced, was at this very time conversing with the Indians upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwith- standing the roar of the breakers. Mr. Cook and his friends now thought that all danger was over ; but about an hour afterwards, just as the man in the chains had cried " seventeen fathom" the ship struck. The shock threw them into the utmost consternation ; and almost instantly the man in the chains cried out " five fathom." By this time, the rock on which the ship had
FIRST VOYAGE. 61
struck being to the windward, she went off without having received the least damage ; and the water very soon deepening to twenty fathom, she again sailed in security.
The inhabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to be far more numerous than in any other part of New Zealand which Lieutenant Cook had hitherto visited. It did not appear that they were united under one head ; and, though their towns were fortified, they seemed to live together in perfect amity.
The Endeavour, on the 9th of December, lying be- calmed in Doubtless Bay, an opportunity was taken to inquire of the natives concerning their country; and our navigators learned from them, by the help of Tupia, that at the distance of three days rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moore- Wheunua, the land would take a short turn to the southward, and thence extend no more to the west. This place the English gentlemen concluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, and which had been named by him Cape Maria van Diemen. The lieutenant, finding the inhabitants so intelligent, inquired further, if they knew of any country besides their own. To this they answered, that they had never visited any other ; but that their ancestors had told them, that there was a country of great extent, to the north-west bv north, or north-north west, called Uli- maroa, to which some people had sailed in a very large canoe ; and that only a part of them had returned, who reported, that, after a passage of a month, they had seen a country where the people eat hogs.
On the 30th of December, our navigators saw the land, which they judged to be Cape Maria van Diemen, and which corresponded with the account that had been given of it by the Indians. The next day, from the appearance of Mount Camel, they had a demonstra- tion that, where they now were, the breadth of New Zealand could not be more than two or three miles from sea to sea. During this part of the navigation, two particulars occurred which are very remarkable. In latitude 35° S. and in the midst of summer, Lieute- nant Cook met with a gale of wind, which, from its
62 CAPTAIN COOK'S
strength and continuance, was such as he had scarcely ever been in before ; and he was three weeks in getting ten leagues to the westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues ; for at this time, being the 1st of January, 1770, it was so long since he had passed Cape Bret. While the gale lasted, our voyagers were happily at a considerable distance from the land ; since, otherwise, it was highly probable that they would never have re- turned to relate their adventures.
The shore at Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the English had arrived on the 14th of January, seemed to form several bays, into one of which the lieutenant pro- posed to carry the ship, which was now become very foul, in order to careen her, to repair some defects, and to obtain a recruit of wood and water. At daybreak, the next morning, he stood in for an inlet, and at eight got within the entrance. At nine o'clock, there being little wind, and what there was being variable, the Endeavour was canned by the tide or current within two cables' length of the north-west shore where she had fifty-four fathom water. By the help of the boats she was gotten clear ; and about two, our people an- chored in a very safe and convenient cove. Soon after, Mr. Cook, with most of the gentlemen, landed upon the coast, where they found a fine stream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest plenty. Indeed the land, in this part of the country, was one forest, of vast extent. As the gentlemen had brought the seine with them, it was hauled once or twice ; and with such success, that different sorts of fish were caught, amount- ing nearly to three hundred weight. The equal distri- bution of these among the ship's company, furnished them with a very agreeable refreshment.
When Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and some others, landed on the 16th, they met with an Indian family, among whom they found horrid and indisputable proofs of the custom of eating human flesh. Not to resume so disagreeable a subject, it may here be observed once for all, that evidences of the same custom appeared on various occasions.
On the next day a delightful object engaged the at-
FIRST VOYAGE. 63
tention of our voyagers. The ship lying at the dis- tance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile from the shore, they were awakened by the singing of an in- credible number of birds, who seemed to strain their throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely superior to any they had ever heard of the same kind, and seemed- to be like small bells, most exquisitely tuned. It is probable, that the distance, and the water between, might be of no small advantage to the sound. Upon inquiry, the gentlemen were in- formed, that the birds here always began to sing about two hours after midnight ; and that, continuing their music till sunrise, they were silent the rest of the day. In this last respect they resembled the nightingales of our own country.
On the 18th, Lieutenant Cook went out in the pin- nace, to take a view of the bay in which the ship was now at anchor; and found it to be of great extent, consisting of numberless small harbours and cov es, iu every direction. The lieutenant confined his excursion to the western side, and the coast where he landed being an impenetrable forest, nothing could be seen worthy of notice. As our commander and his friends were returning-, thev saw a single man in a canoe fish- ing : rowing up to him, to their great surprise, he took not the least notice of them ; and even when they were alongside of him, continued to follow his occupation, without adv erting to them any more than if they had been invisible, this behaviour was not, however, the result either of sullenness or stupidity ; for upon being requested to draw up his net, that it might be examined, he readily complied. He showed, likewise, to our people his mode of fishing, which was simple and ingenious.
When, on the 19th, the armourer's forge was set up, and all hands on board were busy in careening, and in other necessary operations about the vessel, some In- dians, who had brought plenty of fish, exchanged them for nails, of which they had now begun to perceive the use and value. This may be considered as one in-
C4 CAPTAIN COOK'S
stance in which they were enlightened and benefited by their intercourse with our navigators.
While, on the 22d, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander em- ployed themselves in botanizing near the beach, our commander, taking a seaman with him, ascended one of the hills of the country. Upon reaching its summit, he found the view of the inlet, the head of which he had a little before in vain attempted to discover in the pinnace, intercepted by hills still higher than that on which he stood, and which were rendered inaccessible by impenetrable woods. He was, however, amply re- warded for his labour ; for he saw the sea on the eastern side of the country, and a passage leading from it to that on the west, a little to the eastward of the en- trance of the inlet where the ship lay. The main land, which was on the south-east side of this inlet, ap- peared to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the south-west side of the strait. On the opposite side, the land trended away east as far as the eye could reach ; and to the south-east there was dis- cerned an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern coast. The lieutenant saw, also, on the east side of the inlet, some islands which he had before taken to be part of the main land. In returning to the ship, he examined the harbours and coves that lie behind the islands which he had seen from the hills. The next day was employed by him in further surveys and discoveries.
During a visit to the Indians, on the 24th, Tupia being of the party, they were observed to be continually talking of guns and shooting people. For this subject of their conversation, the English gentlemen could not at all account. But, after perplexing themselves with various conjectures, they at length learned, that, on the 21st, one of our oflicers, under the pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to a hippah, or village, on the coast. When he had done so, two or three canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested that an attack was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were fired, one with small shot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who retired with the utmost pre-
FIRST VOYAGE. 65
ripitation. It is highly probable, that they had come out with friendly intentions, for such intentions were expressed bv their behaviour, both before and after- wards. This action of the officer exhibited a fresh instance, how little some of the people under Lieute- nant Cook had imbibed of the wise, discreet, and humane spirit of their commander.
On the morning of the 26th, the lieutenant went again out in the boat, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and entered one of the bays, which lie on the east side of the inlet, in order to obtain another sight of the strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. Having landed, for this purpose, at a convenient place, thev climbed a hill of very considerable height, from which they had a full view of the strait, with the land on the opposite shore, which they judged to be about four leagues distant. As it was hazy in the horizon, they could not see far to the south-east ; but Mr. Cook saw enough to determine him to search the passage with the ship, as soon as he should put to sea. The gentlemen found, on the top of the hill, a parcel of loose stones, with which they erected a pyramid, and left in it some musket balls, small shot, beads, and such other things, which they happened to have about them, as were likely to stand the test of time. These, not being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European, who should come to the place and pull it down, that natives of Europe had been there before. After this, the lieutenant and his friends went to a town of which the Indians had informed them, and m hich, like one they had already seen, was built upon a small island or rock, so difficult of access, that they gratified their curiosity at the risk of their lives. Here, as had been the case in former visits to the inhabitants of that part of the country near which the ship now lay, they were received with open arms, carried through the whole of the place, and shown all that it contained. The town consisted of between eighty and a hundred houses, and had onlv one fighting stage. Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, happened to have with them a few nails and ribands, and some paper, with
VOL. I. F
•60 CAPTAIN COOK'S
which the people were so highly gratified, that when the gentlemen went away, they filled the English boat with dried fish, of which it appeared that they had laid up large quantities.
A report was spread, that one of the men, that had been so rashly fired upon by the officer who had visited the hippah, under the pretence of fishing, was dead of his wounds. But, on the 29th, the lieutenant had the great consolation of discovering that this report was groundless. On the same day he went again on shore, upon the western point of the inlet, and, from a hill of considerable height, had a view of the coast to the north-west. The furthest land he could see, in that quarter, was an island at the distance of about ten lea<»-ues, lying not far from the main. Between this island and the place where he stood, he discovered, close under *' 3 shore, several other islands, forming many bays, in which there appeared to be good ancho- rage for shipping. After he had set oft' the different points for his survey, he erected another pile of stones, in which he left a piece of silver coin, with some musket balls and beads, and a fragment of an old pen- dant flying at the top.
On the 30th of January, the ceremony was performed of giving name to the inlet where our voyagers now lay^and of erecting a memorial of the visit which they had made to this place. The carpenter having pre- pared two posts for the purpose, our commander ordered them to be inscribed with the ship's name, and the dates of the year and the month. One of these he set up at the watering-place, hoisting the union-flag upon the top of it ; and the other he carried over to the island that lies nearest the sea, and which is called by the natives Motuara. He went first, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and Tupia, to the neighbouring village, or hippah, where he met with an old man, who had main- tained a friendly intercourse with the English. To this old man, and several Indians besides, the lieutenant, by means of Tupia, explained his design, which, he informed them, was to erect a mark upon the island, in order to show to any other ship, which should happen
FIRST VOYAGE. 67
to come thither, that our navigators had been there before. To this the inhabitants readily consented, and promised that they would never pull it down. He then gave something to every one present, and to the old man a silver threepence, and some spike-nails, with the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them. These were things which Mr. Cook thought were the most likelv to be long preserved. After this, he conveyed the post to the highest part of the island ; and, having fixed it firmly in the ground, hoisted upon it the union flag, and honoured the inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound. At the same time, he took formal possession of this and the adjacent country, in the name and for the use of His Majesty King George the Third. The ceremony was concluded by the gentle- men's drinking a bottle of wine to her majesty's health ; and the bottle being given to the old mau^ who had attended them up the hill, he was highly delighted with his present.
A philosopher, perhaps, might inquire on what ground Lieutenant Cook could take formal possession of this part of New Zealand, in the name and for the use of the King of Great Britain, when the country was already inhabited, and of course belonged to those by whom it was occupied, and whose ancestors might have resided in it for many preceding ages. To this the best answer seems to be, that the lieutenant, in the ceremony performed by him, had no reference to the original inhabitants, or any intention to deprive them of their natural rights, but only to preclude the claims of future European navigators, who, under the auspices and for the benefit of their respective states or king- doms, might form pretensions, to which they were not entitled by prior discovery.
On the 31st, our voyagers having completed their wooding, and filled their water-casks, Mr. Cook sent out two parties, one to cut and make brooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening: there was a strong gale from the north-west, with such a heavy rain, that the little wild musicians on shore suspended their song, which till now had been constantlv heard
68 CAPTAIN COOK'S
during the night, with a pleasure that it was impossible to lose without regret. The gale, on the 1st of Fe- bruary, increased to a storm, Avith heavy gusts from the high land, one of which broke the hawser, that had been fastened to the shore, and induced the necessity of letting go another anchor. Though, towards mid- night, the gale became more moderate, the rain con- tinued with so much violence, that the brook, which supplied the ship with water, overflowed its banks ; in consequence of which ten small casks, that had been filled the day before, were carried away, and, notwith- standing the most diligent search for them, could not
T^p fPCOVGrGQ*
The Endeavour, on Monday the 5th, got. under sail ; but the wind soon failing, our commander was obliged again to come to anchor, a little above Motuara. As he was desirous of making still further inquiries, whe- ther any memory of Tasman had been preserved in New Zealand, he directed Tupia to ask of the old man before mentioned, who had come on board to take his leave of the English gentlemen, whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as theirs had before visited the country. To this he replied in the negative ; but said, that his ancestors had told him, that there once had arrived a small vessel from a distant land, called Uh- maroa, in which were four men, who upon their reach- ing the shore were all killed. On being asked where this country lay, he pointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa, Lieutenant Cook had heard something be- fore, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who said, that it had been visited by their ancestors. Tupia had also some confused traditionary notions concerning it ; but no certain conclusion could be drawn either from his account or that of the old Indian.
Soon after the ship came to anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had gone on shore to see if any gleanings of natural knowledge remained, fell in, by accident, with the most agreeable Indian family they had yet seen, and which afforded them a better opportunity of remarking the personal subordi- nation among the natives, than had before ottered.
FIRST VOYAGE. 69
The whole behaviour of this family was affable, obliging, and unsuspicious. It was matter of sincere regret to the two gentlemen, that they had not sooner met with these people, as a better acquaintance with the manners and disposition of the inhabitants of the country might hence have been obtained in a day, than had been ac- quired during the whole stay of the English upon the coast.
When, on the 6th of February, Lieutenant Cook had gotten out of the sound, he stood over to the eastward, in order to get the strait well open before the tide of ebb approached. At seven in the evening, two small islands, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the south-east head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, at the distance of about four miles. It was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, the Endeavour, in a very short time, was carried by the rapidity of the stream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almost perpendicularly out of the sea. The danger increased every moment, and there was but one expe- dient to prevent the ship's being dashed to pieces, the success of which a few moments would determine. She was now within little more than a cable's length of the rock, and had above seventy-five fathom water. But, upon dropping an anchor, and veering above one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, she was happily brought up. This, however, would not have saved our navigators, if the tide, which set south by east, had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its direc- tion to south-east, and carried them beyond the first point. In this situation they were not above two cables' length from the rocks ; and here they remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the south-east, a'ter the rate of at least five miles an hour, from a little after seven till midnight, when the tide abated, and the ves- sel began to heave. By three in the morning, a light breeze at north-west having sprung up, our voyagers sailed for the eastern shore ; though they made but little way, in consequence of the tide being against them. The wind, however, having afterwards fresh- ened, and come to north and north-east, with this, and
70 CAPTAIN COOK'S
the tide of ebb, they were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the strait, and then stood away for the southernmost land they had in prospect. There appeared, over this laud, a mountain of stupen- dous height, which was covered with snow. The nar- rowest part of the strait, through which the Endeavour had been driven with such rapidity, lies between Cape Tierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo ; the distance between which our commander judged to be four or five leagues. Notwithstanding the difficulties arising from this tide, now its strength is known, the strait may be passed without danger.
Some of the officers started a notion, that Eaheino- mauwe was not an island, and that the land might stretch away to the south-east, from between Cape Turnagain and Cape Palliser, there being a space of between twelve and fifteen leagues which had not yet been seen. Though Lieutenant Cook, from what he had observed the first time he discovered the strait, and from many other concurrent circumstances, had the strongest conviction that they were mistaken, he, nevertheless, resolved to leave no possibility of doubt with respect to an object of so much importance. For this purpose he gave such a direction to the navigation of the ship, as would most effectually tend to determine the matter. After a course of two days he called the officers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not now satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. To this question they readily answered in the affirma- tive ; and all doubts being removed, the lieutenant proceeded to further researches.
During Mr. Cook's long and minute examination of the coast of New Zealand, he gave names to the bays, capes, promontories, islands, and rivers, and other places which were seen or visited by him ; excepting in those cases where their original appellations were learned from the natives. The names he fixed upon were either derived from certain characteristic or ad- ventitious circumstances, or were conferred in honour of his friends and acqiiaintance, chiefly those of the uaval line. Such of the readers of the present work as
FIRST VOYAGE. 71
desire to be particularly informed concerning them, will naturally have recourse to the indications of them In the several maps on which they are described.
The ascertaining of New Zealand to be an island did not conclude Lieutenant Cook's examination of the nature, situation, and extent of the country. After this, he completed his circumnavigation, by ranging from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern coast of Poenammoo, round Cape South, and back to the western entrance of the strait he had passed, and which was very properly named Cook's Strait. This range, which commenced on the 9th of February, I shall not minutely and regularly pursue ; but content myself, as in the former course, with mentioning such circumstances as are more directly adapted to my im- mediate design.
In the afternoon of the 14th, when Mr. Banks was out in the boat a shooting, our voyagers saw, with their glasses, four double canoes put oft' from the shore towards him, having on board fifty-seven men. The lieutenant, being alarmed for the safety of his friend, immediately ordered signals to be made for his return ; but he was prevented from seeing them by the situation of the sun with regard to the ship. However, it was soon with pleasure observed, that his boat was in mo- tion ; and he was taken on board before the Indians, who perhaps had not discerned him, came up. Their attention seemed to be wholly fixed upon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast of her, and then stopped, gazing at the English with a look of vacant astonishment. Tupia in vain exerted his eloquence to prevail upon them to make a nearer approach. After surveying our navigators some time, they left them, and made towards the shore. The gentlemen could not help remarking, on this occasion, the different dis- positions and behaviour of the different inhabitants of the country, at the first sight of the Endeavour. The people now seen kept aloof with a mixture of timidity and wonder ; others had immediately commenced hos- tilities ; the man who was found fishing alone in his canoe appeared to regard our voyagers as totally un-
72 CAPTAIN COOK'S
worthy of notice ; and some had come on board almost without invitation, and with an air of perfect confidence and good will. From the conduct of the last visitors, Lieutenant Cook gave the land from which they had put off, and which had the appearance of an island, the name of Lookers-on.
When an island, which lies about five leagues from the coast of Tovy-Poenammoo, and which was named Banks's Island, was first discovered in the direction of south by west, some persons on board were of opinion, that they saw land bearing south-south-east, and south- east by east. Our commander, who was himself upon the deck at the time, told them, that in his judgment it was no more than a cloud, which, as the sun rose, would dissipate and vanish. Being, however, deter- mined to leave no subject for disputation which experi- ment could remove, he ordered the ship to steer in the direction which the supposed country was said to bear. Having gone in this direction eight and twenty miles, without discovering any signs of land, the Endeavour resumed her intended course to the southward, it being the particular view of the lieutenant to ascertain whe- ther Poenammoo was an island or a continent.
In passing some rocks on the 9th of March, in the night, it appeared in the morning that the ship had been in the most imminent danger. Her escape was indeed critical in the highest degree. To these rocks, therefore, which, from their situation, are so well adapted to catch unwary strangers, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Traps. On the same day he reached a point of land which he called the South Cape, and which he supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, the southern extremity of the country.
In sailing, on Wednesday the 14th, the Endeavour passed a small narrow opening in the land, where there seemed to be a very safe and convenient harbour, formed by an island, which lay eastward in the middle of the opening. On the land, behind the opening, are mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow, that appeared to have recently fallen. Indeed our voyagers, for two days past, had found the weather
FIRST VOYAGE. 73
extremely cold. On each side the entrance of the opening, the land rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a stupendous height. For this reason Lieu- tenant Cook did not choose to carry the ship into the harbour. He was sensible that no wind could blow there but right in or right out ; and he did not think it by any means advisable to put into a place whence he could not have gotten out, but with a wind, which, experience had taught him, did not blow more than one day in a month. Sagacious as this determination of our commander was, it did not give universal satis- faction. He acted in it contrary to the opinion of some persons on board, who expressed in strong terms their desire of coming to harbour ; not sufficiently con- sidering, that present convenience ought not to be purchased at the expense of incurring great future dis- advantages.
By the 27th of March, Mr. Cook had circumnavi- gated the whole country of Tovy-Poenammoo, and arrived within sight of the island formerly mentioned, which lies at the distance of nine leagues from the en- trance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having at this time thirty tons of empty water-casks on board, it was necessary to fill them before he finally proceeded on his voyage. For this purpose, he hauled round the island, and entered a bay, situated between that and Queen Charlotte's Sound, and to which the name was given of Admiralty Bay.
The business of wooding and watering having been completed on the 30th, and the ship being ready tor the sea, the point now to be determined was, what route should be pursued in returning home, that would be of most advantage to the public service. Upon this sub- ject the lieutenant thought proper to take the opinion of his officers. He had himself a strong desire to re- turn by Cape Horn, because that would have enabled him to determine, whether there is or is not a southern continent. But against this scheme it was a sufficient objection, that our navigators must have kept in a high southern latitude, in the very depth of winter, and in a vessel which was not thought to be in a condition fit
74 CAPTAIN COOK'S
for the undertaking. The same reason was urged, with still greater force, against their proceeding di- rectly for the Cape of Good Hope, because no dis- covery of moment could be expected in that route. It was, therefore, resolved that they should return by the East Indies ; and that, with this view, they should steer westward, till they should fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward, till they should arrive at its northern extremity. If that should be found imprac- ticable, it was farther resolved, that they should endea- vour to fall in with the land, or islands, said to have been discovered by Quiros.
In the six months which Lieutenant Cook had spent in the examination of New Zealand, he made very large additions to the knowledge of geography and naviga- tion. That country was first discovered in the year 1642, by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navigator. He traversed the eastern coast from latitude 34° 43', and entered the strait now called Cook's Strait ; but being attacked by the natives soon after he came to an anchor, in the place which he named Murderer's Bay, he never went on shore. Nevertheless, he assumed a kind of claim to the country, by calling it Staaten Land, or the Land of the States, "in honour of the States-General. It is now usually distinguished in maps and charts by the name of New Zealand. The whole of the country, excepting that part of the coast which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship, continued from his time, to the voyage of the Endeavour, altogether un- known. By many persons it has been supposed to constitute a part of a southern continent ; but it was now ascertained by Mr. Cook to consist of two large islands, divided from each other by a strait or passage, which is about four or five leagues broad. These islands are situated between the latitudes of 34° and 48° south, and between the longitudes of 181° and 194° west ; a matter which Mr. Green determined with un- common exactness, from innumerable observations of the sun and moon, and one of the transits of Mercury. The northernmost of these islands is called by the satires
FIRST VOYAGE. 75
Eaheinomauwe, and the southernmost Tory, or Tavai Poenammoo. It is not, however, certain, whether the whole southern islaud, or only part of it, is compre- hended under the latter name.
Tovy Poenammoo is principally a mountainous, and to all appearance a barren country. The only inhabi- tants, and signs of inhabitants, that were discovered upon all the islands, were the people whom our voy- agers saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, some that came off to them under the snowy mountains, and several fires which were discerned to the west of Cape Saun- ders. Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance. Though it is not only hilly but mountainous, even the hills and mountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of water. The soil in these valleys, and in the plains, many of which are not overgrown with wood, is in general light, but fei-tile. It was the opinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, as well as of the other gentlemen on board, that all kinds of Euro- pean grain, plants, and fruit, would flourish here in the utmost luxuriance. There is reason to conclude, from the vegetables which our navigators found in Eaheinomauwe, that the winters are milder than those in England ; and the summer was experienced not to be hotter, though it was more equally warm. If this countrv, therefore, should be settled by people from Europe, they might, with a little industry, very soon be supplied, in great abundance, not merely with the necessaries, but even with the luxuries of life.
In Eaheinomauwe there are no quadrupeds but dogs and rats. At least, no other were seen by our voy- agers ; and the rats are so scarce, that they wholly escaped the notice of man}' on board. Of birds the species are not numerous ; and of these no one kind, excepting perhaps the gaunet, is exactly the same with those of Europe. Insects are not in greater plenty than birds. The sea makes abundant recompense for this scarcity of animals upon the land. Every creek swarms with fish, which are not only wholesome, but equally delicious with those in our part of the world. The Endeavour seldom anchored in any station, or with
76 CAPTAIN COOK S
a light gale passed any place, that did not afford enough, with hook and line, to serve the whole ship's company. If the seine was made use of, it seldom failed of pro- ducing a still more ample supply. The highest luxury of this kind, with which the English were gratified, was the lobster, or sea cray-fish. Among the vegetable productions of the country, the trees claim a principal place ; there being forests of vast extent, full of the straightest, the cleanest, and the largest timber Mr. Cook and his friends had ever seen. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were gratified by the novelty, if not by the variety of the plants. Out of about four hundred species, there were not many which had hitherto been described by botanists. There is one plant that serves the natives instead of hemp and flax, and which excels all that are applied to the same purposes in other countries.
If the settling of New Zealand should ever be deemed an object deserving the attention of Great Britain, our commander thought, that the best place for establishing a colony would either be on the banks of the Thames, or in the territory adjoining to the Bay of Islands. Each of these places possesses the advantage of an excellent harbour. By means of the river, settlements might be extended, and a communication established with the inland parts of the country. Vessels might likewise be built of the fine timber which is every where to be met with, at very little trouble and expense.
But I am in danger of forgetting myself, and of run- ning into a detail, which may be thought rather to ex- ceed the intentions of the present narrative. It is dif- ficult to restrain the pen, when such a variety of curious and entertaining matter lies before it; and I must en- treat the indulgence of my readers while I mention two or three further particulars. One circumstance pecu- liarly worthy of notice, is the perfect and uninterrupted health of the inhabitants of New Zealand. In all the visits made to their towns, where old and young, men and women, crowded about our voyagers, they never observed a single person who appeared to have any bodily complaint ; nor among the numbers that were
FIRST VOYAGE. 77
seen naked, was once perceived the slightest eruption upon the skin, or the least mark which indicated that euch an eruption had formerly existed. Another proof of the health of these people is the facility with which the wounds they at any time receive are healed. In the man who had been shot with a musket ball through the fleshy part of his arm, the wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair a way of being perfectly healed, that if Mr. Cook had not known that no appli- cation had been made to it, he declared that he should certainly have inquired, with a very interested curio- sity, after the vulnerary herbs and surgical art of the country. An additional evidence of human nature's being untainted with disease in New Zealand, is the great number of old men with whom it abounds. Many of them, by the loss of their hair and teeth, appeared to be very ancient, and yet none of them were decrepid. Although they were not equal to the young in muscular strength, they did not come in the least behind them with regard to cheerfulness and vivacity. Water, as far as our navigators could discover, is the universal and only liquor of the New Zealanders. It is greatly to be wished, that their happiness in this respect may never be destroyed by such a connexion with the Euro- pean nations, as shall introduce that fondness for spiri- tuous liquors, which hath been so fatal to the Indians of North America.
From the observations which Lieutenant Cook and his friends made on the people of New Zealand, and from the similitude which was discerned between them and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, a strong proof arose, that both of them had one common origin ; and this proof was rendered indubitable by the confor- mity of their language. When Tupia addressed him- self to the natives of Eaheinomauwe and Poenammoo, he was perfectly understood. Indeed, it did not appear that the language of Otaheite differed more from that of New Zealand, than the language of the two islands, into which it is divided, did from each other.
Hitherto the navigation of Lieutenant Cook had been unfavourable to the notion of a southern continent ;
78 CAPTAIN COOK'S
having swept away at least three-fourths of the posi- tions upon which that notion had been founded. The track of the Endeavour had demonstrated, that the land seen by Tasraan, Juan Fernandes, Hermite, the com- mander of a Dutch squadron, Quiros, and Roggewein, was not, as they had supposed, part of such a continent. It had also totally destroyed the theoretical arguments in favour of a southern continent, which had been drawn from the necessity of it to preserve an equi- librium between the two hemispheres. As, however, Mr. Cook's discoveries, so far as he had already pro- ceeded, extended only to the northward of forty de- grees, south latitude, he could not, therefore, give an opinion concerning what land might lie farther to the southward. This was a matter, therefoi-e, which he earnestly wished to be examined ; and to him was, at lengrth reserved the honour, as we shall hereafter see,
O i •
of putting a final end to the question.
On Saturday the 31st of March, our commander sailed from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, and pursued his voyage to the westward. New Holland, or as it is now called, New South Wales, came in sight on the 19th of April ; and on the 28th of that month the ship anchored in Botany Bay. On the preceding day, in consequence of its falling calm when the vessel was not more than a mile and a half from the shore and within some breakers, our navigators had been in a very disagreeable situa^ tion ; but happily a light breeze had sprung from the land, and carried them out of danger.
In the afternoon the boats were manned ; and Lieu- tenant Cook and his friends, having Tupia of their party, set out from the Endeavour. They intended to land where they had seen some Indians, and began to hope, that, as these Indians had paid no regard to the ship when she came into the bay, they would be as in- attentive to the advances of the English towards the shore. In this, however, the gentlemen were disap- pointed: for as soon as they approached the rocks, two of the men came down upon them to dispute their landing, and the rest ran away. These champions, who were armed with lances about ten feet long, called to
FIRST VOYAGE. 79
our navigators in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dis- sonant language, of which even Tupia did not under- stand a single word. At the same time, they bran- dished their weapons, and seemed resolved to defend their coast to the utmost, though they were but two to fortv. The lieutenant, who could uot but admire their courage, and who was unwilling that hostilities should commence with such inequality of force on their side, ordered his boat to lie upon her oars. He and the other gentlemen then parlied with them by signs ; and, to obtain their good will he threw them nails, beads, and several trifles besides, with which they appeared to be well pleased. After this our commander endea- voured to make them understand that he wanted water, and attempted to convince them, by all the methods in his power, that he had no injurious design against them. Being willing to interpret the waving of their hands as an invitation to proceed, the boat put in to the shore ; but no sooner was this perceived, than it was opposed bv the two Indians, one of whom seemed to be a youth about nineteen or twenty years old, and the other a mau of middle age. The only resource now left for Mr. Cook was to tire a musket between them, which being done, the youngest of them brought a bundle of lances on the rock, but recollecting himself in an in- stant, he snatched them up again in great haste. A stone was then thrown at the English, upon which the lieutenant ordered a musket to be fired with small shot. This struck the eldest upon the legs, and he imme- diately ran to one of the houses, which was at about a hundred yards distance. Mr. Cook, who now hoped that the contest was over, instantly landed with his party ; but they had scarcely quitted the boat when the Indian returned, having only left the rock to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as he came up, he and his comrade threw each of them a lance in the midst of our people, but happily without hurting a single person. At the firing of a third musket, one of the two men darted another lance, and then both of them ran away. After this the gentlemen repaired to the huts, and threw into the house where the children
80 CAPTAIN COOK'S
were, some beads, ribbons, pieces of cloth, and other presents. These they hoped would procure them the good will of the inhabitants. "When, however, the lieu- tenant and his companions returned the next dav, they had the mortification of finding that the beads and ribbons, which they had left the night before, had not been removed from their places, and that not an Indian was to be seen.
Several of the natives of the countrv came in sight on the 30th, but thev could not be engaged to begin an intercourse with our people. They approached within a certain distance of them, and, after shouting several times, went back into the woods. Having done this once more, Mr. Cook followed them himself, alone and unarmed, a considerable way along the shore, but with- out prevailing upon them to stop.
On the 1st of May, he resolved to make an excur- sion into the country. Accordingly, our commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and seven others, all of them properly accoutred for the expedition, set out, and re- paired first to the huts near the watering place, whither some of the Indians continued every day to resort. Though the little presents which had beeu left there before had not vet been taken awav, our gentlemen added others of still greater value, consisting of cloth, beads, combs, and looking-glasses. After this they went up into the countrv, the face of which is finely diversi- fied by wood and lawn. The soil they found to be either swamp or light sand*.
In cultivating the ground, there would be no ob- struction from the trees, which are tall, straight, and without underwood, and stand at a sufficient distance from each other. Between the trees, the land is abun- dantly covered with grass. Our voyagers saw many houses of the inhabitants, but met with only one of the people, who ran away as soon as he discovered the English. At every place where they went they left
* In a part of the country that was afterwards examined, the soil was found to be much richer ; being a deep black mould, which the lieutenant thought very fit for the produc- tion of grain of any kind.
FIRST VOYAGE. 81
presents, hoping that at length they might procure the confidence and good will of the Indians. They per- ceived some traces of animals; and the trees over their heads abounded with birds of various kinds, among which were many of exquisite beauty. Lori- quets and cockatoos, in particular, were so numerous, that thev flew in flocks of several scores together.
While the lieutenant and his friends were upon this excursion, Mr. Gore, who had been sent out in the morning to dredge for oysters, having performed that service, dismissed his boat, and taking a midshipman with him, set out to join the waterers by land. In his wav, he fell in with a body of two and twenty Indians, who followed him, and were often at no greater dis- tance than that of 'twenty yards. When he perceived them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon which they likewise stopped ; and when he went on again, thev continued their pursuit. But though they were all armed with lances, they did uot attack Mr. Gore; so that he and the midshipman got in safety to the watering-place. When the natives came in sight of the main bodv of the English, thev halted at about the distance of a quarter of a mile, and stood still. By this Mr. Monkhouse and two or three of the waterers were encouraged to march up to them ; but seeing the In- dians keep their ground, they were seized with a sud- den fear, which is not uncommon to the rash and fool- hardy, and made a hasty retreat. This step increased the danger which it was intended to avoid. Four of the Indians immediately ran forward, and discharged their lances at the fugitives, with such force that they went beyond them. Our people, recovering their spi- rits, stopped to collect the lances, upon which the na- tives, in their turn, began to retire. At this time Mr. Cook came up, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia ; and being desirous of convincing the Indians that they were neither afraid of them, nor designed to do them any injury, they advanced towards them, en- deavouring, by signs of expostulation and entreaty, to engage them to an intercourse, but without effect.
From the boldness which the uatues discovered on
VOL. 1. G
82 CAPTAIN COOK'S
the first landing of our voyagers, and the terror that afterwards seized them at the sight of the English, it appears that they were sufficiently intimidated by our fire arms. There was not, indeed, the least reason to believe that any of them had been much hurt by the small shot which had been fired at them when they attacked our people on their coming out of the boat. Nevertheless, they had probably seen, from their lurk- ing places, the effects which the muskets had upon birds. Tupia, who was become a good marksman, fre- quently strayed abroad to shoot parrots ; and while he was thus employed, he once met with nine Indians, who, as soon as they perceived that he saw them, ran from him, in great alarm and confusion.
While, on the 3d of May, Mr. Banks was gathering plants near the watering-place, Lieutenant Cook went with Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse, to the head of the bay, for the purpose of examining that part of the country, and of making further attempts to form some connexions with the natives. In this excursion they acquired additional knowledge concerning the nature of the soil, and its capacities for cultivation, but had no success in their endeavours to engage the inhabitants in coming to a friendly intercourse. Several parties, that were sent into the country, on the next day, with the same view, were equally unsuccessful. In the after- noon our commander himself, with a number of atten- dants, made an excursion to the north shore, which he found to be without wood, and to resemble, in some degree, our moors in England. The surface of the o-round was, however, covered with a thin brush of plants, rising to about the height of the knee. Near the coast, the hills are low, but there are others behind them, which gradually ascend to a considerable dis- tance, and are intersected with marshes and morasses. Among the articles of fish which, at different times were caught, were large stingrays. One of them, when his entrails were taken out, weighed three hundred and thirty-six pounds.
It was upon account of the great quantity of pi an Is which Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander collected in this
FIRST VOYAGE. 83
place, that Lieutenant Cook was induced to give it the name of Botauv Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 34° south, and' in the longitude of 208° 37' west ; and affords a capacious, safe, and convenient shelter for shipping. The Endeavour anchored near the south shore, about a mile within the entrance, for the con- venience of sailing with a southerly wind, and because the lieutenant thought it the best situation for.water- ing. But afterwards he found a very fine stream on the north shore, where was a sandy cove, in which a ship might lie almost land-locked, and procure wood and water in the greatest abundance. Though wood is every where plentiful, our commander saw only two species of it that could be considered as timber. Not only the inhabitants who were first discovered, but all who afterwards came in sight, were entirely naked. Of their mode of life, our voyagers could know but little, as not the least connexion could be formed with them ; but it did not appear that they were numerous, or that they lived in societies. They seemed, like other ani- mals, to be scattered about along the coast, and in the woods. Not a single article was touched by them of all that were left at their huts, or at the places which they frequented ; so little sense had they of those small conveniences and ornaments, which are generally very alluring to the uncivilized tribes of the globe. During Mr. Cook's stay at this place, he caused the English colours to be displaved every day on shore, and took care that the ship's name, and the date of the year, should be inscribed upon one of the trees near the watering-place.
At daybreak, on Sunday the 6th of May, our navi- gators sailed from Botany Bay ; and as they proceeded on their voyage, the lieutenant gave the names that are indicated upon the map to the bays, capes, points, and remarkable hills which successively appeared in sight. On the 1-lth, as the Endeavour advanced to the north- ward, being then in latitude 30° 22' south, and longi- tude 206° 3W west, the land gradually increased in height, so that it may be called a hilly country. Be- tween this latitude and Botany Bay, it exhibits a
84 CAPTAIN COOK'S
pleasing variety of ridges, hills, valleys, and plains, all clothed with wood, of the same appearance with that which has been mentioned before. The land near the shore is in general low and sandy, excepting the points, which are rocky, and over many of which are high hills, that, at their first rising out of the water, have the semblance of islands. On the next day, the vessel being about a league from the shore, our voy- agers discovered smoke in many places, and having re- course to their glasses, they saw about twenty of the natives, who had each of them a large bundle upon his back. The bundles our people conjectured to be palm leaves for covering the houses of the Indians, and con- tinued to observe them above an hour, during which they walked upon the beach, and up a path that led over a hill of gentle ascent. It was remarkable, that not one of them was seen to stop and look towards the Endeavour. They marched along without the least apparent emotion either of curiosity or surprise, though it was impossible that they should not have discerned the ship, by some casual glance, as they went along the shore, and though she must have been the most stupendous and unaccountable object they had ever beheld. .
While, on the 17th, our navigators were in a bay, to which Lieutenant Cook had given the name of More- ton's Bay, and at a place where the land was not at that time visible, some on board, having observed that the sea looked paler than usual, were of opinion that the bottom of the bay opened into a river. The lieutenant was sensible that there was no real ground for this sup- position. As the Endeavour had here thirty-four la- thom water, and a fine sandy bottom, these circum- stances alone were sufficient to produce the change which had been noticed in the colour of the sea. Nor was it by any means necessary to suppose a river, in order to account for the land at the bottom of the bay not being visible. If the land there was as low as it had been experienced to be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would be impossible to see it from the station of the ship. Our commander would, however.
FIRST VOYAGE. 85
have brought the matter to the test of experiment, if the wind had been favourable to such a purpose. Should anv future navigator be disposed to determine the question, whether there is or is not a river in this place, Mr. Cook has taken care to leave the best directions for finding its situation.
On the 22d, as our voyagers were pursuing their course from Harvey's Bay, they discovered with their glasses that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, which they had not seen from the time of their leaving the islands within the tropic. They saw also two men walking along the shore, who paid them as little atten- tion, as thev had met with on former occasions. At eight o'clock in the evening of this day, the ship came to an anchor in five fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. Early in the morning of the next day, the lieutenant, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, Tupia, and a party of men, went on shore, in order to examine the country. The wind blew fresh, and the weather was so cold, that, being at a considerable distance from land, they took their cloaks as a necessary equipment for the voyage. When they landed, they found a channel leading into a large lagoon. Both the channel and the lagoon were ex- amined bv our commander with his usual accuracy. There is in the place a small river of fresh water, and room for a few ships to lie in great security. Near the lagoon grows the true mangrove, such as exists in the "West India islands, and the first of the kind that had been yet met with by our navigators. Among the shoals and sand banks of the coast, they saw many large birds, and some in particular of the same kind which thev had seen in Botany Bay. These they judged to be pelicans, but they were so shy as never to come w ithin reach of a musket. On the shore was found a species of the bustard, one of which was shot that was equal in size to a turkey, weighing seventeen pounds and a half. All the gentlemen agreed that this was the best bird they had eaten since they left England ; and in honour of it they called the inlet Bustard Bay. Upon the mud banks, and under the mangroves, were
86 CAPTAIN COOK'S
innumerable oysters of various kinds, and among others the hammer oyster, with a large proportion of small pearl oysters. If in deeper water there should be equal plenty of such oysters at their fall growth, Mr. Cook was of opinion that a pearl fishery might be esta- blished here to very great advantage.
The people who were left on board the ship asserted, that, while the gentlemen were in the woods, about twenty of the natives came down to the beach, abreast of the Endeavour, and, after having looked at her for some time, went away. Not a single Indian was seen by the gentlemen themselves, though they found va- rious proofs, in smoke, fires, and the fragments of re- cent meals, that the country was inhabited. The place seemed to be much trodden, and yet not a house, or the remains of a house, could be discerned. Hence the lieutenant and his friends were disposed to believe, that the people were destitute of dwellings, as well as of clothes ; and that, like the other commoners of na- ture, they spent their nights in the open air. Tupia himself was struck with their apparently unhappy con- dition ; and shaking his head, with an air of supe- riority and compassion, said that they were taata enos, " poor wretches.','
On the 25th, our voyagers, at the distance of one mile from the land, were abreast of a point, which Mr. Cook found to lie directlv under the tropic of Capricorn ; and for this reason he called it Cape Capri- corn. In the night of the next day, when the ship had anchored at a place which was distant four leagues from Cape Capricorn, the tide rose and fell near seven feet ; and the flood set to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward. This circumstance was just the reverse of what had been experienced when the Endeavour was at anchor to the eastward of Bustard Bay.
While our people were under sail, on the 26th, and were surrounded with islands, which lay at different distances from the main land, they suddenly fell into three fathom of water. Upon this the lieutenant an- chored, and sent away the master to sound a channel, which lay between the northernmost island and the
FIRST VOYAGE. 87
main. Though the channel appeared to have a con- siderable breadth, our commander suspected it to be shallow, and such was in fact the case. The master reported, at his return, that he had only two fathom and a half in many places; and where the vessel lay at anchor, she had only sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than she drew. Mr. Banks, who, while the master was sounding the channel, tried to fish from the cabin window with hook and line, was successful in catching two sorts of crabs, both of them such as our navigators had not seen before. One of them was adorned with a most beautiful blue, in every respect equal to the ultramarine. With this blue all his claws and joints were deeply tinged ; while the under part of him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that in colour and brightness it bore an exact resemblance to the white of old china. The other crab was also marked, though somewhat more sparingly, with the ultramarine on his joints and his toes ; and on his back were three brown spots of a singular appearance.
Early the next morning, Lieutenant Cook, having found the passage between the islands, sailed to the northward, aud, on the evening of the succeeding day, anchored at about two miles distance from the main. At this time a great number of islands, lying a long way without the ship, were in sight. On the 29th, the lieutenant sent away the master with two boats to sound the entrance of an inlet, which lay to the west, and into which he intended to go with the vessel, that he might wait a few days for the moon's increase, and have an opportunity of examining the country. As the tide was observed to ebb and flow considerably, when the Endeavour had anchored within the inlet, our com- mander judged it to be a river, that might run pretty far up into land. Thinking that this might afford a commodious situation for laying the ship ashore, and cleaning her bottom, he landed with the master, in search of a proper place for the purpose. He was ac- companied in the excursion by Mr. Banks and Dr. So- lander ; and they found walking exceedingly trouble- some, in consequence of the ground's being covered
88 CAPTAIN COOK'S
with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharp and bearded. Whenever these seeds stuck into their clothes, Avhich happened at every step, they worked forward by means of the beard, till they got at the flesh. Another disagreeable circumstance was, that the gentlemen were incessantly tormented with the stings of a cloud of musquitos. They soon met with several places where the ship might conveniently be laid ashore ; but were much disappointed in not being able to find any fresh water. In proceeding up the country they found gum trees, the gum upon which existed only in very small quantities. Gum trees of a similar kind, and as little productive, had occurred in other parts of the coast of New South Wales. Upon the branches of the trees were ants' nests, made of clay, as big as a bushel. The ants themselves, by which the nests were inhabited, were small, and their bodies white. Upon another species of the gum tree, was found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and, having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe in which it had been contained. Notwithstanding this, the parts in which these insects, to an amazing number, had formed a lodgment, bore leaves and flowers, and appeared to be entirely in a flourishing state. Butter- flies were found in such multitudes, that the account of them seems almost to be incredible. The air was so crowded with them, for the space of three or four acres, that millions might be seen in every direction ; and the branches and twigs of the trees were at the same time covered with others that were not upon the wing. A small fish of a singular kind was likewise met with in this place. Its size was about that of a minnow, and it had two very strong breast-fins. It was found in places which were quite dry, and where it might be supposed that it had been left by the tide ; and yet it did not appear to have become languid from that cir- cumstance : for when it was approached, it leaped away as nimbly as a frog. Indeed it did not seem to prefer water to land.
Though the curiosity of Mr. Cook and his friends was gratified by the sight of these various objects, they
FIRST VOYAGE. 89
were disappointed in the attainment of their main pur- pose, the discovery of fresh water ; and a second ex- cursion, which was made by them on the afternoon of the same dav, was equally unsuccessful. The failure of the lieutenant's hopes determined him to make but a short stay in the place. Having, how ever, observed from an eminence, that the inlet penetrated a consider- able wav into the country, he formed a resolution of tracing "it in the morning. Accordingly, at sunrise, on Wednesday the 30th of May, he went on shore, and took a view of the coast and the islands that lie off it, with their bearings. For this purpose he had with him an azimuth compass ; but he found, that the needle differed very considerably in its position, even to thirty degrees ; the variation being in some places more, in others less. Once the needle varied from itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. Mr. Cook having taken up some of the loose stones which lav upon the ground, applied them to the needle, but they produced no effect ; whence he concluded that in the hills there was iron ore, traces of which he had re- marked both here and in the neighbouring parts. After he had made his observations upon the hill, he pro- ceeded with Dr. Solander up the inlet. He set out with the first of the flood, and had advanced above eight leagues, long before it was high water. The breadth of the inlet, thus far, was from two to five miles, upon a direction south-west by south ; but here it opened every way, and formed a large lake, which to the north- w'est communicated with the sea. Our commander not only saw the sea in this direction, but found the tide of flood coming strongly in from that point. He observed, also, an arm of this lake extend- ing to the eastward. Hence he thought it not impro- bable, that it might communicate with the sea in the bottom of the bay, which lies to the westward of the Cape, that on the chart is designated by the name of Cape Townshend. On the south side of the lake is a ridge of hills which the lieutenant was desirous of climbing. As, however, it was high water, and the day was far spent ; and as the weather, in particular, was
90 CAPTAIN COOK'S
dark and rainy, he was afraid of being bewildered among the shoals in the night, and therefore was obliged to give up his inclination, and to make the best of his way to the ship. Two people only were seen by him, who followed the boat along the shore a good way at some distance ; but he could not prudently wait for them, as the tide ran strongly in his favour. Several fires in one direction, and smoke in another, exhibited farther proofs of the country's being in a certain degree inhabited.
While Mr. Cook, with Dr. Solander, was tracing the inlet, Mr. Banks and a party with him engaged in a separate excursion, in which they had not proceeded far within land, before their course was obstructed by a swamp, covered with mangroves. This, however, they determined to pass ; and having done it with great dif- ficulty, they came up to a place where there had been four small fires, near to which lay some shells and bones of fish, that had been roasted. Heaps of grass were also found lying together, on which four or five people appeared to have slept. Mr. Gore, in another place, observed the track of a large animal. Some bustards were likewise seen, but not any other bird, excepting a few beautiful loriquets, of the same kind with those which had been noticed in Botany Bay. The country in general, in this part of New South Wales, appeared sandy and barren, and destitute of the accommodations which could fit it for being possessed by settled inha- bitants. From the ill success that attended the search- ing for fresh water, Lieutenant Cook called the inlet in which the ship lay Thirsty Sound. No refreshment of any other sort was here procured by our voyagers.
Our commander, not having a single inducement to stay longer in this place, weighed anchor in the morn- ing of the 31st, and put to sea. In the prosecution of the voyage, when the Endeavour was close under Cape Upstart, the variation of the needle, at sunset, on the 4th of June, was 9° east, and at sunrise the next day, it was no more than 5° 35'. Hence the lieutenant con- cluded, that it had been influenced by iron ore, or by some other magnetical matter contained under the sur-
FIRST VOYAGE. 91
face of the earth. In the afternoon of the 7th, our na- vigators saw upon one of the islands what had the ap- pearance of cocoanut trees ; and as a few nuts would at this time have been very acceptable, Mr. Cook sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, to see if he could procure any refreshment. He was accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ; and in the evening the gentlemen returned, with an account that what had been taken for cocoanut trees were a small kind of cabbage-palm, and that, excepting about fourteen or fifteen plants, nothing could be obtained which was worth bringing away. On the 8th, when the Endeavour was in the midst of a cluster of small islands, our voyagers dis- cerned, with their glasses, upon one of the nearest of these islands, about thirty of the natives, men, women, and children, all standing together, and looking with great attention at the ship. This was the first instance of curiosity that had been observed among the people of the country. The present Indian spectators were entirelv naked. Their hair was short, and their com- plexion the same with that of such of the inhabitants as had been seen before.
In navigating the coast of New South Wales, where the sea in all parts conceals shoals, which suddenly project from the shore, and rocks, that rise abruptly like a pvramid from the bottom, our commander had hitherto" conducted his vessel in safety, for an extent of two and twenty degrees of latitude, being more than one thousand three hundred miles. But, on the 10th of June, as he was pursuing his course from a bay to which he had given the name of Trinity Bay, the En- deavour fell into a situation, as critical and dangerous, as any that is recorded in the history of navigation ; a history which abounds with perilous adventures, and almost miraculous escapes. Our voyagers were now near the latitude assigned to the islands that were dis- covered bv Quiros, and which, without sufficient rea- son, some geographers have thought proper to join to this land. The ship had the advantage of a fine breeze, and a clear moonlight night ; and in standing off from six till near nine o'clock, she had deepened her water
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from fourteen to twenty-one fathom. But while our navigators were at supper, it suddenly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, within the compass of a few minutes. Mr. Cook immediately ordered every man to his station, and all was ready to put about and come to an anchor, when deep water being met with again at the next cast of the lead, it was concluded that the vessel had gone over the tail of the shoals which had been seen at sunset, and that the danger was now over. The idea of security was con- firmed by the water's continuing to deepen to twenty and twenty-one fathoiu, so that the gentlemen left the deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed. However, a little before eleven, the water shoaled at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and before the lead could be cast again, the ship struck, and remained immove- able, excepting so far as she was influenced by the heaving of the surge, that beat her against the crags of the rock upon which she lay. A few moments brought every person upon deck, with countenances suited to the horrors of the situation. As our people knew, from the breeze which they had in the evening, that they could not be very near the shore, there was too much reason to conclude, that they were upon a rock of coral, which, on account of the sharpness of its points, and the roughness of its surface, is more fatal than any other. On examining the depth of water round the ship, it was speedily discovered that the misfortune of our voyagers was equal to their apprehensions. The vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow there were from three to four fathom, and in others not so many feet of water. To complete the scene of distress, it appeared, from the light of the moon, that the sheathing boards from the bottom of the thip were floating away all round her, and at last her false keel ; so that ever}' moment was making way for the whole company's being swallowed up by the rushing in of the sea. There was now no chance but to lighten her, and the opportunity had unhappily been lost of doing it to the best advantage; for, as the Endeavour had gone
FIRST VOYAGE. 93
ashore just at high water, and by this time it had con- siderably fallen, she would, when lightened, be but in the same situation as at first. The only alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed, the ves- sel settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so much violence. Our people had, indeed, some hope from the next tide, though it was doubtful whether the ship would hold together so long, espe- cially as the rock kept grating part of her bottom with such force as to be heard in the fore storeroom. No effort, however, was remitted from despair of success. That no time might be lost, the water was immediately started in the hold, and pumped up ; six guns, being all that were upon the deck, a quantity of iron and stone ballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and a variety of things besides, were thrown overboard with the utmost expedition. Every one exerted himself, not only without murmuring and discontent, but even with an alacrity which almost approached to cheerfulness. So sensible, at the same time, were the men of the awfulness of their situation, that not an oath was heard among them, the detestable habit of profane swearing being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when a speedy death was in view.
"When Lieutenant Cook and all the people about him were thus employed, the opening of the morning of the 11th of June presented them with a fuller prospect of their danger. The land was seen by them at about eight leagues distance, without any island in the inter- mediate space, upon which, if the ship had gone to pieces, they might have been set ashore by the boats, and carried thence by different turns to the main. Gradually, however, the wind died away, and, early in the forenoon, it became a dead calm ; a circumstance this, peculiarly happy in the order of Divine Provi- dence ; for if it had blown hard, the vessel must inevi- tably have been destroyed. High water being expected at eleven in the morning, and every thing being made ready to heave her off if she should float ; to the inex- pressible surprise and concern of our navigators, so much did the day tide fall short of that of the night,
94 CAPTAIN COOK'S
that though they had lightened the ship nearly fifty ton, she did not float by a foot and a half. Hence it became necessary to lighten her still more, and every thing was thrown overboard that could possibly be spared. Hitherto the Endeavour had not admitted much water ; but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, that she could scarcely be kept free, though two pumps were incessantly worked. There were now no hopes but from the tide at mfdnight ; to prepare for taking the advantage of which the most vigorous efforts were exerted. About five o'clock in the afternoon the tide began to rise, but, at the same time, the leak increased to a most alarming degree. Two more pumps, there- fore, were manned, one of which unhappily would not work. Three pumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted. Nevertheless, the leak had gained so considerably upon her, that it was imagined that she must go to the bottom, as soon as she ceased to be supported by the rock. It was, in- deed, a dreadful circumstance to our commander and his people, that they were obliged to anticipate the floating of the vessel, not as an earnest of their deliver- ance, but as an event which probably would precipi- tate their destruction. They knew that their boats were not capable of carrying the whole of them on shore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, all command and subordination being at an end, a con- test for preference might be expected, which would in- crease even the horrors of shipwreck, and turn their rage against each other. Some of them were sensible that if they should escape to the main land, they were likely to suffer more upon the whole, than those who would be left on board to perish in the waves. The latter would only be exposed to instant death ; whereas the former, when they got on shore, would have no lasting or effectual defence against the natives, in a part of the country where even nets and fire-arms could scarcely furnish them with food. But supposing that they should find the means of subsistence ; how hor- rible must be their state, to be condemned to languish out the remainder of their lives in a desolate wilder-
FIRST VOYAGE. 95
ness, without the possession or hope of domestic com- fort ; and to be cut off from all commerce with man- kind, excepting that of the naked savages, who prowl the desert, and who perhaps are some of the most rude and uncivilized inhabitants of the earth !
The dreadful moment which was to determine the fate of our voyagers now drew on ; and every one saw, in the countenances of his companions, the picture of his own sensations. Not, however, giving way to de- spair, the lieutenant ordered the capstan and windlass to be manned with as many hands as could be spared from the pumps, and the "ship having floated about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the grand effort was made," and she was heaved into deep water. It was no small consolation to find, that she did not now admit of more water than she had done when upon the rock. By the gaining, indeed, of the leak upon the pumps, three feet and nine inches of water were in the hold ; notwithstanding which, the men did not relinquish their labour. Thus they held the water as it were at bay : but having endured excessive fatigue of body, and agitation of mind, for more than twenty-four hours, and all this being attended with little hope of final success, they began, at length, to flag. None of them could work at the pump above five or six minutes to- gether, after w hich, being totally exhausted, they threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of water, between three or four inches deep, was running over it from the pumps. When those w ho succeeded them had worked their time, and in their turn were exhausted, they threw themselves down in the same manner, and the others started up again, to renew their labour. While thus they were employed in re lie dug each other, an accident was very nearly putting an immediate end to all their efforts. The planking which lines the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, be- tween which and the outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches. From this ceiling only, the man who had hitherto attended the well had taken the rlepth of the water, and had given the measure accord- ingly. But, upon his being relieved, the person who
96 CAPTAIN COOK'S
came in his room reckoned the depth to the outside planking, which had the appearance of the leak's having gained upon the pumps eighteen inches in a few mi- nutes. The mistake, however, was soon detected ; and the accident, which in its commencement was very for- midable to them, became, in fact, highly advantageous. Such was the joy which every man felt, at finding his situation better than his fears had suggested, that it operated with wonderful energy, and seemed to possess him with a strong persuasion that scarcely any real danger remained. New confidence and new hope in- spired fresh vigour ; and the efforts of the men were exerted with so much alacrity and spirit, tfcat before eight o'clock in the morning the pumps had gained considerably upon the leak. All the conversation now turned upon carrying the ship into some harbour, as a thing not to be doubted ; and as hands could be spared from the pumps, they w ere employed in getting up the anchors. It being found impossible to save the little bower anchor, it was cut away at a whole cable, and the cable of the stream anchor was lost among the rocks ; but, in the situation of our people, these were trifles which scarcely attracted their notice. The fore top- mast and fore yard were next erected, and there being a breeze from the sea, the Endeavour, at eleven o'clock, got once more under sail, and stood for the land.
Notwithstanding these favourable circumstances, our voyagers were still very far from being in a state of safety. It was not possible long to continue the labour by which the pumps had been made to gain upon the leak ; and as the exact place of it could not be disco- vered, there was no hope of stopping it within. At this crisis, Mr. Monkhouse, one of the midshipmen, came to Lieutenant Cook, and proposed an expedient he had once seen used on board a merchant ship, which had sprung a leak that admitted more than four feet water in an hour, and which by this means had been safely brought from Virginia to London. To Mr. Monkhouse, therefore, the care of the expedient, which is called fothering the ship, was, with proper assistance, committed ; and his method of proceeding was as lol-
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lows. He took a lower studding sail, and having mixed together a large quantitj of oakum and wool, he stitched it down as lightly as possible, in handfuls upon the sail, and spread over it the dung of the sheep of the vessel, and other filth. The sail being thus pre- pared, it was hauled under the ship's bottom by ropes, which kept it extended. When it came under the leak, the suction that carried in the water, carried in with it the oakum and wool from the surface of the sail. In other parts the water was not sufficiently agitated to wash off the oakum and the wool. The success of the expedient was answerable to the warmest expectations ; for hereby the leak was so far reduced, that, instead of gaining upon three pumps, it was easily kept under with one. Here was such a new source of confidence and comfort, that our people could scarcely have ex- pressed more joy, if they had been already in port. It had latelv been the utmost object of their hope, to run the ship ashore in some harbour, either of an island or the main, and to build a vessel out of her materials, to carry them to the East Indies. Nothing, however, was now thought of but to range along the coast in search of a convenient place to repair the damage the Endea- vour had sustained, and tiien to prosecute the voyage upon the same plan as if no impediment had happened. In justice and gratitude to the ships company, and the gentlemen on board, Mr. Cook has recorded, that al- though in the midst of their distress all of them seemed to have a just sense of their danger, no man gave way to passionate exclamations, or frantic gestures. " Every one appeared to have the perfect possession of his mind, and every one exerted himself to the utmost, with a quiet and patient perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence of terror, and the gloomy inac- tivity of despair.'" Though the lieutenant hath said nothing of himself, it is well known tkat his own com- posure, fortitude, and activity, were equal to the great- ness of the occasion.
To complete the history of this wonderful preserva- tion, it is necessary to bring forward a circumstance, which could not be discovered till the ship was laid
VOL. I. H
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xlown to be repaired. It was then found, that one of her holes, which was large enough to have sunk our navigators, if they had had eight pumps instead of four, and had been able to keep them incessantly going, was in a great measure filled up by a fragment of the rock, upon which the Endeavour had struck. To this singu- lar event, therefore, it was owing, that the water did not pour in with a violence, which must speedily have involved the Endeavour and all her company in inevi- table destruction.
Hitherto none of the names, by which our commander had distinguished the several parts of the country seen by him, were memorials of distress. But the anxiety and danger, which he and his people had now expe- rienced, induced him to call a point in sight, which lay to the northward, Cape Tribulation.
The next object, after this event, was to look out for a harbour, where the defects of the ship might be re- paired, and the vessel put into proper order for future navigation. On the 14th, a small harbour was happily discovered, which was excellently adapted to the pur- pose. It was, indeed, remarkable, that, during the whole course of the voyage, our people had seen no place which, in their present circumstances, could have afforded them the same relief. They could not, how- ever, immediately get into it ; and in the midst of all their joy for their unexpected deliverance, they had not forgotten that there was nothing but a lock of wool between them and destruction.
At this time, the scurvy, with many formidable symptoms, began to make its appearance among our navigators. Tupia, in particular, was so grievously affected with the disease, that all the remedies pre- scribed by the surgeon could not retard its progress. Mr. Green, the astronomer, was also upon the decline. These and other circumstances embittered the delay which prevented our commander and his companions from getting on shore. In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was still fresh, the lieutenant ventured to weigh, and to put in for the harbour, the entrance into which was by a very narrow channel. In making
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the attempt, the ship was twice run aground. At the first time, she went off without any trouhle, but the second time, she stuck fast. Nevertheless, bj proper exertions, in conjunction with the rising of the tide, she floated about one o'clock in the afternoon, and was soon warped into the harbour. The succeeding day was employed in erecting two tents, in landing the provisions and stores, and in making every preparation for repairing the damages which the Endeavour had sustained. In the meanwhile, Mr. Cook, who had ascended one of the highest hills that overlooked the harbour, was by no means entertained with a comfort- able prospect ; the low land near the river being wholly overrun with mangroves, among which the salt water flows at every tide, and the high land appearing to be altogether stony and barren. Mr. Banks also took a walk up the countrv, and met with the frames of several old Indian houses, and places where the natives, though not recently, had dressed shell fish. The boat, which had this day been dispatched to haul the seine, with a view of procuring some fish for the refreshment of the sick, returned without success. Tupia was more for- tunate. Having employed himself in angling, and lived entirely upon what he caught, he recovered in a sur- prising degree. Mr. Green, to the regret of his friends, exhibited no symptoms of returning health.
On the 19th, Mr. Banks crossed the river, to take a farther view of the country ; which he found to consist principally of sand hills. Some Indian houses were seen by him, that appeared to have been v ery lately inhabited ; and in his walk he met with large flocks of pigeons and crows. The pigeons were exceedingly beautiful. Of these he shot several ; but the crows, which were exactly like those in England, were so shy, that thev never came within the reach of his gun.
It was not till the 22d, that the tide so far left the Endeavour, as to give our people an opportunity of examining her leak. In the place where it was found, the rocks had made their way through four planks, and even into the timbers. Three more planks were greatly damaged, and there was something very extraordinary
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in the appearance of the breaches. Not a splinter was to be seen, bnt all was as smooth as if the whole had been cut away by an instrument. It was a peculiarly happy circumstance, that the timbers were here very close, since otherwise the ship could not possibly have been saved. Now also it was that the fragment of the rock was discovered, which, by sticking in the leak of the vessel, had been such a providential instrument of her preservation.
On the same day, some of the people who bad been sent to shoot pigeons for the sick, and who had dis- covered manv Indian houses, and a fine stream of fresh water, reported at their return, that they had seen an animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, of a mouse colour, and extremely swift. As the lieutenant was walking, on the morning of the 24th, at a little distance from the ship, he had an opportunity of seeing an animal of the same kind. From the description he gave of it, and from an imperfect view which occurred to Mr. Banks, the latter gentleman was of opinion that its species was hitherto unknown.
The position of the vessel, while she was refitting for sea, was very near depriving the world of that botanical knowledge, which Mr. Banks had procured at the ex- pense of so much labour, and such various perils. For the greater security of the curious collection of plants which he had made during the whole voyage, he had removed them into the bread room. This room is in the after part of the ship, the head of which, for the purpose of repairing her, was laid much higher than the stern. No one having thought of the danger to which this circumstance might expose the plants, they were found to be under water. However, by the exercise of unremitting care and attention, the larger part of them were restored to a state of preservation.
On the 29th of June, at two o'clock in the morning, Mr. Cook, in conjunction wnth Mr. Green, observed an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite. The time here was 2h 18' 53", which gave the longitude of the place at 214° 42' 30" west : its latitude is 15° 26' south. The next moruing the lieutenant sent some of the young
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gentlemen to take a plan of the harbour, whilst he him- self ascended a hill, that he might gain a full prospect of the sea : and it was a prospect which presented him with a lively view of the difficulties of his situation. To his great concern he saw innumerable sand-banks and shoals, lying in every direction of the coast. Some of them extended as far as he could discern with his glass, and many of them did but just rise above water. To the northward there was an appearance of a pas- sage, and this was the only direction in which our com- mander could hope to get clear, in the prosecution of his voyage ; for, as the wind blew constantly from the south-east, to return by the southward would have been extremely difficult, if not absolutely impossible. On this, and the preceding day, our people had been very successful in hauling the seine. The supply of fish A\as so great, that the lieutenant w as now able to distribute two pounds and a half to each man. A quantity of greens having likewise been gathered, he ordered them to be boiled with the peas. Hence an excellent mess was produced, which, in conjunction with the fish, afforded an unspeakable refreshment to the whole of the ship's company.
Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant Cook sent the master out of the harbour, in the pinnace, to sound about the shoals, and to search for a channel to the northward. A second attempt, which was made this day, to heave off the ship, was as unsuccessful as a former one had been. The next day the master re- turned, and reported, that he had found a passage out to sea, between the shoals. On one of these shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dry at low water, he had landed, and found there cockles, of so enormous a size, that a single cockle was more than two men could eat. At the same place he met with a great variety of other shell fish, and brought back with him a plentiful supply for the use of his fel- low vovagers. At high water, this day, another effort was made to float the ship, which happily succeeded ; but it being found, that she had sprung a plank be- tween decks, it became necessary to lay her ashore a
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second time. The lieutenant, being anxious to attain a perfect knowledge of the state of the vessel, got one of the carpenter's crew, a man in whom he could con- fide, to dive, on the. 5th, to her bottom, that he might examine the place where the sheathing had been rubbed off. His report, which was, that three streaks of the sheathing, about eight feet long, were wanting, and that the main plank had been a little rubbed, was per- fectly agreeable to the account that had been given be- fore by the master and others, who had made the same examination ; and our commander had the consolation of finding, that, in the opinion of the carpenter, this matter would be of little consequence. The other damage, therefore, being repaired, the ship was again floated at high water, and all hands were employed in taking the stores on board, and in putting her into a condition for proceeding on her vo}age. To the har- bour in which she was refitted for the sea, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Endeavour River.
On the morning of the 6th, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Lieutenant Gore, and three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view of spending a few days in examining the country. In this expedition nothing escaped his notice, which related either to the natural history or the inhabitants of the places he visited. Though he met with undoubted proofs, that several of the natives were at no great distance, none of them came within sight. Having found, upon the whole, that the country did not promise much advantage from a farther search, he and his party reembarked in their boat, and returned, on the 8th, to the ship. During their excursion, they had slept upon the ground in perfect security, and without once reflecting upon the danger they would have incurred, if, in that situation, they had been discovered by the Indians.
Lieutenant Cook had not been satisfied with the account which the master had given of his having traced a passage between the shoals, into the sea. He sent him out, therefore, a second time, upon the same business ; and, on his return, he made a different re- port. Having been seven leagues out at sea, the mas-
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ter was now of opiniou, that there was no such passage as he had before imagined. His expedition, however, though in this respect unsuccessful, was not wholly without its advantage. On the very rock where he had seen the large cockles, he met with a great number of turtle ; and though he had no better an instrument than a boat-hook, three of them were caught, which together weighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds. An attempt, which, by order of the lieutenant, was made the next morning to obtain some more turtle, failed, through the misconduct of the same officer, who had been so fortunate on the preceding day.
Hitherto the natives of this part of the country had eagerly avoided holding any intercourse with our people : but at length their minds, through the good management of Mr. Cook, became more favourably disposed. Four of them having appeared, on the 10th, in a small canoe, and seeming to be busily employed in striking fish, some of the ship's company were for going over to them in a boat. This, however, the lieu- tenant would not permit, repeated experience having convinced him that it was more likely to prevent than to procure an interview. He determined to pursue a contrary method, and to try what could be done by letting them alone, and not appearing to make them, in the least degree, the objects of his notice. So suc- cessful was this plan, that after some preparatory inter- course, they came alongside the ship, without express- ing any fear or distrust. The conference was carried on, by signs, with the utmost cordiality till dinner- time, when, being invited by our people to go with them and partake of their provision, they declined it, and went away in their canoe. One of these Indians was somewhat above the middle age ; the three others were young. Their stature was of the common size, but their limbs were remarkably small. The colour of their skin was a dark chocolate. Their hair was black, but not woolly ; and their features were far from being disagreeable. They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white. The tones of their voices were soft and musical, and there was a flexibility in their
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organs of speech, which enabled them to repeat, with great facility many of the words pronounced by the English.
On the next morning, our voyagers had another visit from four of the natives., Three of them were the same who had appeared the day before, but the fourth was a stranger, to whom his companions gave the name of Yaparico. He was distinguished by a very peculiar ornament. This was the bone of a bird, nearly as thick as a man's finger, and five or six inches long, which he had thrust into a hole, made in the gristle that divides the nostrils. An instance of the like kind, and only one, had been seen in New Zealand. It was found, however, that among all these people the same part of the nose was perforated ; that they had holes in their ears ; and that they had bracelets, made of plaited hair, upon the upper part of their arms. Thus the love of ornament takes place among them, though they are absolutely destitute of apparel.
Three Indians, on the 12th, ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were so well pleased with their reception, that one of them went with his canoe to fetch two others, who had never been seen by the English. On his return, he introduced the strangers by name, a ceremony which was never omitted upon such occa- sions. From a farther acquaintance with the natives, it was found, that the colour of their skins was not so dark as had at first been apprehended, and that all of them were remarkably clean limbed, and extremely active and nimble. Their language appeared to be more harsh than that of the islanders in the South Sea.
On the 14th, Mr. Gore had the good fortune to kill one of the animals before mentioned, and which had been the subject of much speculation. It is called by the natives Kanguroo ; and when dressed proved most excellent meat. Indeed, our navigators might now be said to fare sumptuously every day ; for they had turtle in great plentv, and it was agreed that these were far superior to any which our people had ever tasted in England. This the gentlemen justly imputed to their being eaten fresh from the sea, before their natural fat
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had been wasted, or their juices changed, by the situa- tion and diet they are exposed to when kept in tubs. Most of the turtle here caught were of the kind called green turtle, and their weight was from two to three hundred pounds.
In the morning of the 16th, while the men were en- gaged in their usual employment of getting the ship ready for the sea, our commander climbed one of the heisrhts on the north side of the river, and obtained from it an extensive view of the inland country, which he found agreeably diversified by hills, valleys, and large plains, that in many places were richly covered with wood. This evening, the lieutenant and Mr. Green observed an emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude. The observation taken on the 29th of June had given 214° 48' 30" ; and the mean was 214° 48' 7f", being the longitude of the place west of Greenwich.
On the 17th, Mr. Cook sent the master and one of the mates in the pinnace, to search for a channel north- ward ; after which, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, he went into the woods on the other side of the water. In this excursion, the gentlemen had a farther opportunity of improving their acquaint- ance with the Indians, who by degrees became so familiar that several of them the next day, ventured on board the ship. There the lieutenant left them, apparently much entertained, that he might go with Mr. Banks to take a farther survey of the countrv, and especially to indulge an anxious curiosity they had of looking round about them upon the sea ; of which they earnestly wished, but scarcely dared to hope, that thev might obtain a favourable and encouraging prospect. "W hen, after having walked along the shore seven or eisrht miles to the northward, thev ascended a verv Irish hill, the view which presented itself to them inspired nothing but melancholv apprehensions. In every direc- tion they saw rocks and shoals without number ; and there appeared to be no passage out to sea, but through the winding channels between them, the navigation of which could not be accomplished without the utmost
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degree of difficulty and danger. The spirits of the two gentlemen were not raised by this excursion.
On the 19th, our voyagers were visited by ten of the uatives : and six or seven more were seen at a distance, chiefly women, who were as naked as the male inhabi- tants of the country. There being at that time a num- ber of turtles on the deck of the ship, the Indians who came on board were determined to get one of them ; and expressed great disappointment and anger, when our people refused to comply with their wishes. Seve- ral attempts were made by tbem to secure what they wanted by force ; but all their efforts proving unsuc- cessful, they suddenly leaped into their canoe in a transport of rage, and paddled towards the shore. The lieutenant, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the ship's crew, immediately went into the boat, and got ashore, where many of the English were engaged in various employments. As soon as the natives reached the land, they seized their arms, which had been laid up in a tree, and having snatched a brand from under a pitch- kettle that was boiling, made a circuit to the windward of the few things our people had on shore, and with surprising quickness and dexterity set fire to the grass in their way. The grass, which was as dry as stubble, and five or "six feet high, burned with surprising fury ; and a tent of Mr. Banks's would have been destroyed if that gentleman had not immediately got some of the men to save it, by hauling it down upon the beach. Every part of the smith's forge that would burn was consumed. This transaction was followed by another of the same nature. In spite of threats and entreaties, the Indians went to a different place, where several of the Endeavour's crew were washing, and vyhere the seine, the other nets, and a large quantity of linen were laid out to dry, and again set fire to the grass. The audacity of this fresh attack rendered it necessary that a musket, loaded with small shot, should be discharged at one of them ; who being wounded at the distance of about fortv yards, they all betook themselves to flight. In the last instance the fire was extinguished before it had made any considerable progress ; but where it had
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first began, it spread far into the woods. The natives being still in sight, Mr. Cook, to convince them that they had not yet gotten out of his reach, fired a musket, charged with ball, abreast of them among the man- groves, upon whieh they quickened their pace, and were soon out of view. It was now expected that they would have given our navigators no farther trou- ble ; but in a little time their voices were heard in the woods, and it was perceived that they came nearer and nearer. The lieutenant, therefore, together with Mr. Banks, and three or four more persons, set out to meet them ; and the result of the interview, in conse- quence of the prudent and lenient conduct of our com- mander and his friends, was a complete reconciliation. Soon after the Indians went away, the woods were seen to be on fire at the distance of about two miles. This accident, if it had happened a little sooner, might have produced dreadful effects ; for the powder had been but a few days on board, and it was not many hours that the store tent, with all the valuable things con- tained in it had been removed. From the fury with which the grass would burn in this hot climate, and the difficulty of extinguishing the fire, our voyagers deter- mined never to expose themselves to the like danger, but to clear the ground around them, if ever again they should be under the necessity of pitching their tents in such a situation.
In the evening of this day, when every thing was gotten on board the ship, and she was nearly ready for sailing, the master returned with the disagreeable ac- count that there was no passage for her to the northward. The next morning, the lieutenant himself sounded and buoved the bar. At this time, all the hills for many miles round were on fire, and the appearance they as- sumed at night was eminently striking and splendid.
In an excursion which was made by Mr. Banks, on the 33d, to gather plants, he found the greatest part of the cloth that had been given to the Indians lying in a heap together. This, as well as the trinkets which had been bestowed upon them, they probably regarded as useless lumber. Indeed, they seemed to set little value
108 CAPTAIN COOK'S
on any thing possessed by our people, excepting their turtle ; and that was a commodity which could not be spared.
As Lieutenant Cook was prevented by blowing wea- ther from attempting to get out to sea, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander seized another opportunity, on the 24th, of pursuing their botanical researches. Having tra- versed the woods the greater part of the day, without success, as thejr were returning through a deep valley, they discovered lying upon the ground several marking nuts, the anacardium orientale. Animated with the hope of meeting the tree that bore them, a tree which perhaps no European botanist had ever seen, they sought for it with great diligence and labour, but to no purpose. While Mr. Banks was again gleaning the country, on the 26th, to enlarge his treasure of natural history, he had the good fortune to take an animal of the opossum tribe, together with two young ones. It was a female, and, though not exactly of the same species, much resembled the remarkable animal which Mons. de Buffon hath described by the name of phalanger.
On the morning of the 29th, the weather becoming calm, and a light breeze having sprung up by land, Lieutenant Cook sent a boat to see what water was upon the bar, and all things were made ready for put- ting to sea. But, on the return of the boat, the officer reported, that there were only thirteen feet of water on the bar. As the ship drew thirteen feet six inches, and the sea breeze set in again in the evening, all hope of sailing on that day was given up. The weather being more moderate on the 31st, the lieutenant had thoughts of trying to warp the vessel out of the harbour ; but upon going out himself in the boat, he found, that the wind still blew so fresh, that it would not be proper to make the attempt. A disagreeable piece of intelligence occurred on the succeeding day. The carpenter, who had examined the pumps, reported, that they were all of them in a state of decay. One of them was so rotten, that, when hoisted up, it dropped to pieces, and the rest were not in a much better condition. The chief confidence, therefore, of our navigators was now in the
FIRST VOYAGE. 109
soundness of the ship ; and it was a happy ci rcumstance, that she did not admit more than one inch of water in an hour.
Early on the 3d of August, another unsuccessful at- tempt was made to warp the vessel out of the harbour : but in the morning of the next day the efforts of our voyagers were more prosperous, and the Endeavour got once more under sail with a light air from the land, which soon died away, and was followed by sea breezes from south-east by south. "With these breezes the ship stood off to sea, east by north, having the pinnace ahead, which was ordered to keep sounding without intermission. A little before noon the lieute- nant anchored in fifteen fathom water, with a sandy bottom ; the reason of which was, that he did not think it safe to run in among the shoals, till, by taking a view of them from the mast-head at low water, he might be able to form some judgment which way it would be proper for him to steer. This was a matter of nice and arduous determination. As yet Mr. Cook was in doubt, whether he should beat back to the southward, round all the shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or the northward : nor was it possible to say, whether each of these courses might not be attended with equal difficulty and danger.
The impartiality and humanity of Lieutenant Cook's conduct in the distribution of provisions ought not to pass unnoticed. Whatever turtle or other fish were taught they were always equally divided among the whole ship's crew, the meanest person on board having the same share with the lieutenant himself. He hath justly observed, that this is a rule which every com- mander will find it his interest to follow, in any voyage of a similar nature.
Great difficulties occurred in the navigation from the Endeavour river. On the 5th of August, the lieu- tenant had not kept his course long, before shoals were discovered in every quarter, which obliged him, as night approached, to come to an anchor. In the morn- ing of the 6th, there was so strong a gale, that our voy- t-euted from weighing. "W hen it was
110 CAPTAIN COOK'S
low water, Mr. Cook, with several of his officers, kept a look-out at the mast-head, to see if any passage could be discovered between the shoals. Nothing, however, was in view, excepting breakers, which extended from the south round by the east as far as to the north-west, and reached out to sea, beyond the sight of any of the gentlemen. It did not appear that these breakers were caused by one continued shoal, but by several, which lay detached from each other. On that which was farthest to the eastward, the sea broke very high, so that the lieutenant was induced to think, that it was the outermost shoal. He was now convinced, that there was no passage to sea, but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals ; and, at the same time, he was wholly at a loss what course to steer, when the weather should permit the vessel to sail. The mastei-'s opinion was, that our navigators should beat back the way they came ; but as the wind blew strongly, and almost with- out intermission, from that quarter, this would have been an endless labour : and yet, if a passage could not be found to the northward, there was no other alterna- tive. Amidst these anxious deliberations, the gale in- creased, and continued, with little remission, till the morning of the 10th, when the weather becoming more moderate, our commander weighed, and stood in for the land. He had now come to a final determination of seeking a passage along the shore to the northward.
In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour pro- ceeded in her course, and at noon came between the farthermost headland that lay in sight, and three islands which were four or five leagues to the north of it, out at sea. Here our navigators thought they saw a clear opening before them, and began to hope that they were once more out of danger. Of this hope, however, they were soon deprived ; on which account, the lieu- tenant gave to the headland the name of Cape Flattery. After he had steered some time along the shore, for what was believed to be the open channel, the petty officer at the mast-head cried aloud, that he saw land ahead, which extended quite round to the three islands, and that between the ship and them there was a largo
FIRST VOYAGE. Ill
reef. Mr. Cook, upon this, ran up the mast-head him- self, and plainly discerned the reef, which was so far to the windward, "that it could not be weathered. As to the land which the petty officer had supposed to be the main, our commander was of opinion, that it was only a cluster of small islands. The master, and some others, who went up the mast-head after the lieutenant, were entirely of a different opinion. All of them were posi- tive that the land in sight did not consist of islands, but that it was a part of the main ; and they rendered their report still more alarming, by adding, that they saw breakers around them on every side. In a situa- tion so critical and doubtful, Mr. Cook thought proper to come to an anchor, under a high point, which he immediately ascended, that he might have a farther view of the sea and the country. The prospect he had from this place, which he called Point Look-out, clearly confirmed him in his former opinion ; the justness of which displayed one of the numerous instances, wherein it was manifest, how much he exceeded the people about him in the sagacity of his judgment concerning matters of navigation.
The lieutenant, being anxious to discover more dis- tinctly the situation of the shoals, and the channel be- tween them, determined to visit the northernmost and largest of the three islands before mentioned ; which, from its height, and its lying five leagues out to sea, was peculiarly adapted to his purpose. Accordingly, in companv with Mr. Banks, whose fortitude and cu- riosity stimulated him to take a share in every under- taking, he set out in the pinnace, on the morning of the 11th, upon this expedition. He sent, at the same time, the master in the yawl, to sound between the low islands and the main land. About one o'clock, the gentlemen reached the place of their destination, and immediately, with a mixture of hope and fear, propor- tioned to the importance of the business, and the un- certainty of the event, ascended the highest hill they could find. When the lieutenant took a survey of the prospect around him, he discovered, on the outside of the islands, and at the distance of two or three leagues
112 CAPTAIN COOK S
from them, a reef of rocks, upon which the sea broke in a dreadful surf, and which extended farther than his sight could reach. Hence, however, he collected, that there was no shoals beyond them ; and, as he perceived several breaks or openings in the reef, and deep water between that and the islands, he entertained hopes of getting without the rocks. But though he saw reason to indulge, in some degree, this expectation, the hazi- ness of the weather prevented him from obtaining that satisfactorv intelligence which he ardently desired. He determined, therefore, by staying all night upon the island, to try whether the next day would not afford him a more distinct and comprehensive prospect. Ac- cordinglv, the gentlemen took up their lodging under the shelter of a bush, which grew upon the beach. Not many hours were devoted by them to sleep ; for, at three in the morning, Mr. Cook mounted the hill a second time, but had the mortification of finding the weather much more hazy than it had been on the pre- ceding dav. He had early sent the pinnace, with one of the mates, to sound between the island and the reefs, and to examine what appeared to be a channel through them. The mate, in consequence of its blowing hard, did not dare to venture into the channel, which he reported to be very narrow. Nevertheless, our com- mander, who judged, from the description of the place, that it had been seen to disadvantage, was not discou- raged by this account.
While the lieutenant was engaged in his survey, Mr. Banks, always attentive to the great object of natural historv, collected some plants which he had never met with before. No animals were perceived upon the place, excepting lizards, for which reason the gentle- men gave it the name of Lizard Island. In their re- turn to the ship, they landed on a low sandy island, that had trees upon It, and which abounded with an incredible number of birds, principally sea-fowl. Here they found the nest of an eagle, and the nest of some other bird, of what species they could not distinguish ; but it must certainly be one of the largest kinds that exist. This was apparent from the enormous size of
FIRST VOYAGE. 113
the nest, which was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no less than six and twenty feet in circum- ference, and two feet eight inches in height. The spot which the gentlemen were now upon they called Eagle Island.
"When Lieutenant Cook got on board, he entered into a verv serious deliberation concerning the course he should pursue. After considering what he had seen himself, and the master's report, he was of opinion, that bv keeping in with the mainland, he should run the risk of being locked in by the great reef, and of being compelled at last to return back in search of another passage. By the delay that would hence be occasioned, our navigators would almost certainly be prevented from getting in time to the East Indies, which was a matter of the utmost importance, and in- deed of absolute necessity ; for they had now not much more than three months provision on board, at short allowance. The judgment the lieutenant had formed, together with the facts and appearances on which it Avas grounded, he stated to his officers, by whom it was unanimously agreed, that the best thing they could do would be to quit the coast entirely, till they could approach it again with less danger.
In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour, early in the morning of the 13th, got under sail, and successfully passed through one of the channels or openings in the outer reef, which Mr. Cook had seen from the island. "When the ship had gotten without the breakers, there was no ground within one hundred and fiftv fathom, and our people found a large sea roll- ing in upon them from the south-east. This was a cer- tain sig:n that neither land nor shoals were near them in that direction.
So happy a change in the situation of our voyagers was sensibly felt in every breast, and was visible in e\ erv countenance. They had been little less than three months in a state that perpetually threatened them with destruction. Frequently had they passed their nights at anchor within hearing of the surge, that broke over the shoals and rocks ; and they knew, that, if by anj:
VOL. I. 1
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accident the anchors should not hold against an almost continual tempest, they must in a few minutes inevi- tably perish. They had sailed three hundred and sixty leagues, without once, even for a moment, having a man out of the chains heaving the lead. This was a circumstance which perhaps never had happened to any other vessel. But now our navigators found them- selves in an open sea with deep water ; and the joy they experienced was proportioned to their late danger, and their present security. Nevertheless, the very waves, which proved by their swell that our people had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced them, at the same time, that they could not put a confidence in the ship equal to what they had done before she struck. So far were her leaks widened by the blows she re- ceived from the waves, that she admitted no less than nine inches of water in an hour. If the company had not been lately in so much more imminent danger, this fact, considering the state of the pumps, and the navi- gation which was still in view, would have been a matter of very serious concern.
The passage or channel, through which the Endea- vour passed into the open sea beyond the reef, lies in latitude 14° 32' south. It may always be known by the three high islands within it, to which, on account of the use they may be of in guiding the way of future voyagers, our commander gave the appellation of the Islands of Direction.
It was not a long time that our navigators enjoyed the satisfaction of being free from the alarm of danger. As they were pursuing their course in the night of the 15th, they sounded frequently, but had no bottom with one hundred and forty fathom, nor any ground with the same length of line. Nevertheless, at four in the morning of the 16th, they plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it foaming to a vast height, at not more than the distance of a mile. The waves, which rolled in upon the reef, carried the v es- sel towards it with great rapidity ; and, at the same time, our people could reach no ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of v\ tad for the sail. In a silua-
FIRST VOYAGE. 115
tion so dreadful, there was no resource but in the boats ; and, most unhappily, the pinnace was under repair. By the help, however, of the long-boat and the yawl, which were sent ahead to tow, the ship's head was got round to the northward, a circumstance which might delay, if it could not prevent destruction. This was not effected till six o'clock, and our voyagers were not then a hundred yards from the rock, upon which the same billow that washed the side of the vessel broke to a tremendous height, the very next time it rose. There was only, therefore, a dreary valley be- tween the English and destruction ; a valley no wider than the base of one wave, while the sea under them was unfathomable. The carpenter, in the meanwhile, having hastily patched up the pinnace, she was hoisted out, and sent ahead to tow in aid of the other boats. But all these efforts would have been ineffectual, if a light air of wind had not sprung up, just at the crisis of our people's fate. It was so light an air, that at any other time it would not have been observed : but it was sufficient to turn the scale in favour of our navi- gators ; and, in conjunction with the assistance which was afforded by the boats, it gave the ship a perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. The hopes of the com- pany now revived : but in less than ten minutes a dead calm succeeded, and the vessel was again driven to- wards the breakers, which were not at the distance of two hundred yards. However, before the ground was lost which had already been gained, the same light breeze returned, and lasted ten minutes more. During; this time a small opening, about a quarter of a mile distant, was discovered in the reef; upon which Mr. Cook immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported that its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that within it there was smooth water. This discovery presented the prospect of a possibility of escape, by pushing the vessel through the opening. Accordingly, the attempt was made, but it failed of success ; for when our people, by the joint assistance of their boats and the breeze, had reached the opening, they found that it had become high water;
116 CAPTAIN COOK'S
and, to their great surprise, they met the tide of ebb running out like a mill-stream. In direct contrariety to their expectations, some advantage was gained by this event. Though it was impossible to go through the opening, the stream, which prevented the Endea- vour from doing it, carried her out about a quarter of a mile ; and the boats were so much assisted in towing her, by the tide of ebb, that at noon she had gained the distance of nearly two miles. However, there was yet too much reason to despair of deliverance. For even if the breeze, which had now died away, had revived, our navigators were still embayed in the reef: and the tide of ebb being spent, the tide of flood, notwithstand- ing their utmost efforts, drove the ship back again into her former perilous situation. Happily, about this time, another opening was perceived, nearly a mile to the westward. Our commander immediately sent Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, to examine it ; and in the meanwhile the Endeavour struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining and sometimes losing ground. During this severe service, every man did his duty with as much calmness and regularity as if no danger had been near. At length, Mr. Hicks returned with the intelligence, that the opening, though narrow and hazardous, was capable of being passed. The bare possibility of passing it was encouragement sufficient to make the attempt ; and indeed all danger was less to be dreaded by our people, than that of continuing in their present situation. A light breeze having fortu- nately sprung up, this, in conjunction with the aid of the boats, and the very tide of flood that would other- wise have been their destruction, enabled them to enter the opening, through whioh they were hurried with amazing rapidity. Such was the force of the torrent by which they were carried along, that they were kept from driving against either side of the channel, which in breadth was not more than a quarter of a mile. While they were shooting this gulf, their soundings were remarkably irregular, varying from thirty to seven fathom, and the ground at bottom was foul.
As soon as our na\ igators had gotten withiu the reef,
FIRST VOYAGE. 117
they came to an anchor ; and their joy was exceedingly great at having regained a situation, which, three davs before, they had quitted with the utmost pleasure and transport. Rocks and shoals, which are alwavs dan- gerous to the mariner, even when they are previously known and marked, are peculiarly dangerous in seas which have never been navigated before ; and in this part of the globe they are more perilous than in any other. Here they consist of reefs of coral rock, which rise like a wall almost perpendicularly out of the deep, and are always overflowed at high water. Here, too, the enormous waves of the vast southern ocean, meet- ing with so abrupt a resistance, break, with incon- ceivable violence, in a surf which cannot be produced by any rocks or storms in the northern hemisphere. A crazy ship, shortness of provision, and a want of every necessary, greatly increased the danger to our present voyagers of navigating in this ocean. Nevertheless, such is the ardour of the human mind, and so flattering is the distinction of a first discoverer, that Lieutenant Cook and his companions cheerfully encountered every peril, and submitted to every inconvenience. They chose rather to incur the charge of imprudence and temerity, than to leave a country unexplored which they had discovered, or to afford the least colour for its being said, that they were deficient in perseverance and fortitude. It scarcely needs to be added, that it was the high and magnanimous spirit of our commander, in particular, which inspired his people with so much resolution and vigour.
The lieutenant, having now gotten within the reef, determined, whatever might be the consequence, to keep the main land on board, in his future route to the northward. His reason for this determination was, that, if he had gone without the reef again, he might have been carried by it so far from the coast, as to pre- vent his being able to ascertain whether this country did, or did not, join to New Guinea ; a question which he had fixed upon resolving, from the first moment that he had come within sight of land. To the opening through which the Endeavour had passed, our com-
118 CAPTAIN COOK'S
mander, with a proper sense of gratitude to the Su-» preme Being, gave the name of Providential Channel. In the morning of the 17th, the boats had been sent out, to see what refreshments could be procured ; and returned in the afternoon with two hundred and forty pounds of the meat of shell fish, chiefly of cockles. Some of the cockles were as much as two men could move, and contained twenty pounds of good meat. Mr. Banks, who had gone out in his little boat, accom- panied by Dr. Solander, brought back a variety of curious shells, and many species of corals.
In the prosecution of the voyage, our people, on the 19th, were encompassed on every side with rocks and shoals : but, as they had lately been exposed to much greater danger, and these objects were now become familiar, they began to regard them comparatively with little concern. On the 21st, there being two points in view, between which our navigators could see no land, they conceived hopes of having at last found a passage into the Indian Sea. Mr. Cook, however, that he might be able to determine the matter with greater certainty, resolved to land upon an island, which lies at the south-east point of the passage. Accordingly, he went into the boat, with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. As they were getting to shore, some of the natives seemed inclined to oppose their landing, but soon walked leisurely away. The gentlemen immediately climbed the highest hill, from which no land could be seen between the south-west and west-south-west ; so that the lieutenant had not the least doubt of finding a channel, through which he could pass to New Guinea. As he was now about to quit the coast of New Holland, which he had traced from latitude thirty-eight to this place, and which he was certain no European had ever seen before, he once more hoisted English colours. He had, indeed, already- taken possession of several particular parts of the country. But he now took possession of the whole eastern coast, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it, from latitude 38° to latitude 10°§' south, in right of his Majesty King George the
FIRST VOYAGE. 110
Third, and by the name of New South Wales. The party then fired three volleys of small arms, which were answered by the same number from the ship. When the gentlemen had performed this ceremonv upon the island, which they called Possession Island, they reembarked in their boat, and, in consequence of a rapid ebb tide, had a very difficult and tedious return to the vessel.
On the 23d, the wind had come round to the south- west ; and though it Avas but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by a swell from the same quarter, which, in conjunction with other circumstances, confirmed Mr. Cook, in his opinion, that he had arrived to the northern extremity of New Holland, and that he had now an open sea to the westward. These circum- stances afforded him peculiar satisfaction, not only be- cause the dangers and fatigues of the vovage were drawing to a conclusion, but because it could no longer be doubted whether New Holland and New Guinea were two separate islands. The north-east entrance of the strait lies in the latitude of 10° 39' south, and in the longitude of 218° 36' west ; and the passage is formed by the main land, and by a congeries of islands, to the north-west, called by the lieutenant the Prince of Wales's Islands, and which may probably extend as far as to New Guinea. Their difference is very great, both in height and circuit, and manV seemed to be well covered with herbage and wood : nor was there any doubt of their being inhabited. Our commander was persuaded, that among these islands as good passages might be found, as that through which the vessel came, and the access to which might be less perilous. The determination of this matter he would not have left to future navigators, if he had been less harassed by dan- ger and fatigue, and had possessed a ship in better con- dition for the purpose. To the channel through which he passed, he gave the name of Endeavour Straits.
New Holland, or, as the eastern part of it was called by Lieutenant Cook, New South Wales, is the largest country in the known world, which does not bear the
120 CAPTAIN COOK'S
name of a continent. The length of coast along which our people sailed, when reduced to a straight line, was no less than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amount- ing nearly to two thousand miles. In fact, the square surface of the island is much more than equal to the whole of Europe. We may observe, with regard to the natives, that their number bears no proportion to the extent of their territory. So many as thirty of them had never been seen together but once, and that was at Botany Bay. Even when they appeared deter- mined to engage the English, they could not muster above fourteen or tifteen fighting men : and it was ma- nifest, that their sheds and houses did not lie so close together, as to be capable of accommodating a larger party. Indeed our navigators saw only the seacoast on the eastern side ; between which and the western shore there is an immense tract of land, that is wholly unexplored. But it is evident, from the totally un- cultivated state of the country which was seen by our people, that this immense tract must either be alto- gether desolate, or at least more thinly inhabited than the parts which were visited. Of traffic, the natives had no idea, nor could any be communicated to them. The things which were given them they received, but did not appear to understand the signs of the English requiring a return. There was no reason to believe that they eat animal food raw. As they have no vessel in which water can be boiled, they either broil their meat upon the coals, or bake it in a hole by the help of hot stones, agreeably to the custom of the inhabitants of the South Sea islands. Fire is produced by tJiem with great facility, and they spread it in a surprising manner. For producing it, they take two pieces of soft wood, one of which is a stick about eight or nine inches long, while the other piece is flat. The stick they shape into an obtuse point at one end, and press- ing it upon the flat wood, turn it nimbly by holding it between both their hands. In doing this, they often shift their hands up, and then move them down, with a view of increasing the pressure as much as possible.
FIRST VOYAGE. 121
By this process they obtain fire in less than two mi- nutes, and from the "smallest spark they carry it to any height or extent with great speed and dexterity.
It was not possible, considering the limited inter- course which our navigators had with the natives of New South Wales, that much could be learned with regard to their language. Nevertheless, as this is an object of no small curiosity to the learned, and is, in- deed, of peculiar importance in searching into the origin of the various nations that have been disco- vered, Mr. Cook and his friends took some pains to collect such a specimen of it as might, in a certain degree, answer the purpose. Our commander did not quit the country without making such observations, relative to the currents and tides upon the coast, as, while they increase the general knowledge of naviga- tion, may be of service to future voyagers. The irre- gularity of the tides is an object worthy of notice.
From the coast of New South Wales, the lieutenant steered, on the 23d of August, for the coast of New Guinea, and, on the 25th, fell upon a dangerous shoal. The ship was in six fathom, but scarcely two were found, upon sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable's length. This shoal was of such an extent, reaching from the east round by the north and west to the south-west, that there was no method for the vessel to get clear of it, but by her going back the way in which she came. Here was another hair's breadth escape ; for it was nearly high water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which, if the ship had struck, must very soon have bulged her. So dangerous was her situation, that, if her direction had been half a cable's length more, either to the right or left, she must have struck, before the signal for the shoal could have been made.
It had been Lieutenant Cook's intention to steer north-west till he had made the south coast of New Guinea, and it was his purpose to touch upon it, if that could be found practicable. But, in consequence of the shoals he met with, he altered his course, in the hope of finding a clearer channel, and deeper water.
122 CAPTAIN COOK'S
His hope was agreeably verified ; for by noon, on the 36th, the depth of water was gradually increased to seventeen fathom. On the 28th, our voyagers found the sea to be in many places covered with a brown scum, such as the sailors usually call spawn. When the lieu- tenant first saw it, he was alarmed, fearing that the ship was again among shoals ; but the depth of water, upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it was in other places. The same appearance had been observed upon the coasts of Brazil and New Holland, in which cases it was at no great distance from the shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the scum, but could not determine what it was, any farther than as they saw reason to suppose that it belonged to the vegetable kingdom. The sailors, upon meeting with more of it, gave up the notion of its being spawn, and finding a new name for it, called it sea sawdust.
At daybreak, on the 3d of September, our navigators came in sight of New Guinea, and stood in for it, with a fresh gale, till nine o'clock, when they brought to, being in three fathom water, and within about three or four miles of land. Upon this the pinnace was hoisted, and the lieutenant set oif from the ship with the boat's crew, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks's servants, being in all twelve persons, well armed. As soon as they came ashore, they discovered the prints of human feet, which could not long have been impressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, that the natives were at no great distance, and there being a thick wood which reached to within a hundred vards of the water, the gentlemen thought it necessary to proceed with caution, lest their retreat to the boat should be cut off. When they had walked some way along the skirts of the wood, 'they came to a grove of cocoanut trees, at the fruit of which they looked very wishfully ; but not thinking it safe to climb, they were obligedto leave it without tasting a single nut. After they had advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, and, as they ran towards the English, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which
FIRST VOYAGE. 123
flew on one side of him, and burned exactly like gun- powder, though without making any report. The two other natives having at the same instant discharged their arrows, the lieutenant and his party were under the necessity of firing, first with small shot, and a second time with ball. Upon this, the three Indians ran away with great agility. As Mr. Cook had no dis- position forcibly to invade this country, either to gratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and was convinced that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, he and his companions returned with all expedition towards their boat. When they were aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives, who had come down to the shore in aid of their countrymen, and whose number now amounted to between sixty and a hundred. Their appearance was much the same as that of the New Hollanders : they nearly resembled them in stature, and in having their hair short and cropped. Like them, also, they were absolutely naked ; but the colour of their skin did not seem quite so dark, which, however, might be owing to their being less dirty. "While the English gentlemen were viewing them, thev were shouting defiance, and letting off" their fires by four or five at a time. Our people could not imagine what these fires were, or what purposes they were intended to answer. Those who discharged them had in their hands a short piece of stick, which they swung sidewavs from them, and immediately there issued fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of a musket, and of as short a duration. The men on board the ship, who observed this surprising phenomenon, were so far deceived by it, as to believe that the In- dians had firearms. To the persons in the boat, it had the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report. The place where this transaction happened lies in the latitude of 6° 15' south, and is about sixty-five leagues to the north-east of Port Saint Augustine, or Walche Caep, and is near what is called in the charts C. de la Colta de St. Bonaventura. In every part of the coast, the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and herbage. The cocoanut, the bread-fruit, and the plan-
122
CAPTAIN COOK'S
His hope was agreeably verified ; for by noon, on the 36th, the depth of water was gradually increased to seventeen fathom- On the 28th, our voyagers found the sea to be in many places covered with a brown scum, such as the sailors usually call spawn. When the lieu- tenant first saw it, he was alarmed, fearing that the ship was again among shoals ; but the depth of water, upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it was in other places. The same appearance had been observed upon the coasts of Brazil and New Holland, in which cases it was at no great distance from the shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the scum, but could not determine what it was, any farther than as thev saw reason to suppose that it belonged to the vegetable kingdom. The sailors, upon meeting with more of it, gave up the notion of its being spawn, and finding a new name for it, called it sea sawdust.
At daybreak, on the 3d of September, our navigators came in sight of New Guinea, and stood in for it, with a fresh gafe, till nine o'clock, when they brought to, being in three fathom water, and within about three or four miles of land. Upon this the pinnace was hoisted, and the lieutenant set off from the ship with the boat's crew, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks's servants, being in all twelve persons, well armed. As soon as they came ashore, they discovered the prints of human feet, which could not long have been impressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, that the natives were at no great distance, and there being a thick wood which reached to within a hundred yards of the water, the gentlemen thought it necessary to proceed with caution, lest their retreat to the boat should be cut off. When they had walked some way along the skirts of the wood, "they came to a grove of cocoanut trees, at the fruit of which they looked very wishfullv ; but not thinking it safe to climb, they were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. After they had advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, and, as they ran towards the English, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which
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FIRST VOYAGE.
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flew on one side of him, and burned exactly like gun- powder, though without making any report. The two other natives having at the same instant discharged their arrows, the lieutenant and his party were under the necessity of firing, first with small shot, and a second time with ball. Upon this, the three Indians ran away with great agility. As Mr. Cook had no dis- position forcibly to invade this country, either to gratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and was convinced that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, he and his companions returned with all expedition towards their boat. When they were aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives, who had come down to the shore in aid of their countrymen, and whose number now amounted to between sixty and a hundred. Their appearance was much the same as that of the New Hollanders : they nearly resembled them in stature, and in having their hair short and cropped. Like them, also, they were absolutely naked ; but the colour of their skin did not seem quite so dark, which, however, might be owing to their being less dirty. "While the English gentlemen were viewing them, they were shouting defiance, and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. Our people could not imagine what these fires were, or what purposes they were intended to answer. Those who discharged them had in their hands a short piece of stick, which they swung sideways from them, and immediately there issued fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of a musket, and of as short a duration. The men on board the ship, who observed this surprising phenomenon, were so far deceived by it, as to believe that the In- dians had firearms. To the persons in the boat, it had the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report. The place where this transaction happened lies in the latitude of 6° 15' south, and is about sixty-five leagues to the north-east of Port Saint Augustine, or Walche Caep, and is near what is called in the charts C. de la Colta de St. Bonaventura. In every part of the coast, the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and herbage. The cocoanut, the bread-fruit, and the plan-
124 CAPTAIN COOK'S
tain-tree, flourish here in the highest perfection ; be- sides which, the country abounds with most of the trees, shrubs, and plants, that are common to the South Sea islands, New Zealand, and New Holland.
Soon after Mr. Cook and his party had returned to the ship, our voyagers made sail to the westward, the lieutenant having resolved to spend no more time upon this coast ; a resolution which was greatly to the satis- faction of a very considerable majority of his people. Some of the officers indeed were particularly urgent that a number of men might be sent ashore, to cut down cocoanut trees for the sake of their fruit. This, however, our commander absolutely refused, as equally unjust and cruel. It was morally certain, from the pre- ceding behaviour of the natives, that if their property had been invaded, they would have made a vigorous effort to defend it ; in which case, the lives of many of them must have been sacrificed; and perhaps, too, several of the English would have fallen in the contest. The necessity of a quarrel with the Indians would have been regretted by the lieutenant, even if he had been impelled to it by a want of the necessaries of life ; but to engage in it for the transient gratification that would arise from obtaining two or three hundred green cocoa- nuts, appeared in his view highly criminal. The same calamity, at least with regard to the natives, would probably have occurred, if he had sought for any other place on the coast, to the northward and westward, where the ship might have lain so near the shore, as to cover his people with the guns when they had landed. Besides, there was cause to believe, that, before such a place could have been found, our navigators would have been carried so far to the westward, as to be obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of Java. This, in Mr. Cook's opinion, would not have been so safe a passage, as that to the south of Java, through the straits of Sunda. Another reason for his making the best of his way to Batavia, was the leakiness of the vessel, which rendered it doubtful, whether it would not be necessary to heave her down when she arrived at that port. Our commander's resolution was farther
FIRST VOYAGE. 125
confirmed by the consideration, that no discovery could be expected in seas which had already been na- vigated, and where the coast had been sufficiently de- scribed both by Spanish and Dutch geographers, and especially by the latter. The only merit claimed by the lieutenant, in this part of his voyage, was the having established it as a fact beyond all controversy, that New Holland and New Guinea are two distinct countries.
Without staying, therefore, on the coast of New Guinea, the Endeavour, on the same day, directed her course to the westward, in pursuing which, Mr. Cook had an opportunity of rectifying the errors of former navigators. Very early in the morning of the 6th of September, our voyagers passed a small island, which lay to the north-north-west ; and at daybreak they dis- covered another low island, extending from that quarter to north-north-east. Upon the last island, which ap- peared to be of considerable extent, the lieutenant would have landed to examine its produce, if the wind had not blown so fresh, as to render his design imprac- ticable. Unless these two islands belong to the Arrou islands, they have no place in the charts ; and if they do belong to the Arrou islands, they are laid down at too great a distance from New Guinea. Some other land which was seen this day ought, by its distance from New Guinea, to have been part of the Arrou islands ; but if any dependance can be placed on former charts, it lies a degree farther to the south.
On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude 9° 307 south, and longitude 229° 34' west, our people ought to have been in sight of*the Weasel Isles, which, in the charts, are laid down at the distance of twenty or twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland. But as our commander saw nothing of them, he con- cluded that thev must have been placed erroneously. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is con- sidered, that not only these islands, but the coast which bounds this sea, have been explored at different times, and by different persons, who had not all the re (puisites for keeping accurate journals which are now
126 CAPTAIN COOK'S
possessed ; and whose various discoveries have been delineated upon charts by others, perhaps at the dis- tance of more than a century after such discoveries had been made.
In pursuing their course, our navigators passed the islands of Timor, Timor-lavet, Rotte, and Seman. While they were near the two latter islands, they ob- served, about ten o'clock at night, on the 16th of the month, a phenomenon in the heavens, which in many particulars resembled the Aurora Borealis, though in others it was very different. It consisted of a dull reddish light, which reached about twenty degrees above the horizon; and though its extent, at times, varied much, it never comprehended less than eight or ten points of the compass. Through, and out of the general appearance, there passed rays of light of a brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed, nearly in the same manner as those of the Aurora Borealis, but entirely without the tremulous or vibra- tory motion which is seen in that phenomenon. The body of this light bore south-south-east from the ship, and continued, without any diminution of its bright- ness, till twelve o'clock, and probably a longer time, as the gentlemen were prevented from observing it farther, by their retiring to sleep.
By the 16th, Lieutenant Cook had gotten clear of all the islands which had then been laid down in the maps as situated between Timor and Java, and did not expect to meet with any other in that quarter. But the next morning an island was seen bearing west- south-west, and at first he believed that he had made a new discovery. As soon as our voyagers had come close in with the north side of it, they had the pleasing prospect of houses and cocoanut trees, and of what still more agreeably surprised them, numerous flocks of sheep. Many of the people on board were at this time in a bad state of health, and no small number of them had been dissatisfied with the lieutenant for not having touched at Timor. He readily embraced, therefore, the opportunity of landing at a place which appeared so well calculated to supply the necessities of the company,
FIRST VOYAGE. 127
and to remove both the sickness and the discontent which had spread among them. This place proved to be the island of Savu, where a settlement had lately been made by the Dutch.
The great design of our commander was to obtain provisions, which, after some difficulty, and some jea- lousy on the part of Mr. Lange, the Dutch resident, were procured. These provisions were nine buffaloes, six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, many dozens of eggs, some cocoanuts, a few limes, a little garlic, and several hundred gallons of palm-sirup. In obtaining these refreshments at a reasonable price, the English were not a little assisted by an old Indian, who appeared to be a person of considerable authority under the king of the country. The lieutenant and his friends were one day very hospitably entertained by the king himself, though the royal etiquette did not permit his majesty to partake of the banquet.
So little, in general, had the island of Savu been known, that Mr. Cook had never seen a map or chart in which it is clearly or accurately laid down. The middle of it lies in about the latitude of 10° 35' south, and longitude 237° 30' west ; and from the ship it pre- sented a prospect, than which nothing can be more beautiful. This prospect, from the verdure and culture of the country, from the hills, richly clothed, which rise in a gentle and regular ascent, and from the state- liness and beauty of the trees, is delightful to a degree that can scarcely be conceived by the most lively ima- gination. With regard to the productions and natives of the island, the account which our navigators were enabled to give of them, and which is copious and en- tertaining, was, in a great measure, derived from the information of Mr. Lange.
An extraordinary relation is given of the morals of the people of this island, and which, if true, must fill every virtuous mind with pleasure. Their characters and conduct are represented as irreproachable, even upon the principles of Christianity. Though no man is permitted to have more than one wife, an illicit com- merce between the sexes is scarcely known among
128 CAPTAIN COOK'S
them. Instances of theft are very rare ; and so far are they from revenging a supposed injury by murder, that when any difference arises between them, they imme- diately and implicitly refer it to the determination of their king. They will not so much as make it the sub- ject of private debate, lest they should hence be pro- voked to resentment and ill will. Their delicacy and cleanliness are suited to the purity of their morals. From the specimen which is given of the language of Savu, it appears to have some affinity with that of the South Sea islands. Many of the words are exactly the same, and the terms of numbers are derived from the same origin.
On the 21st of September, our navigators got under sail, and having pursued their voyage till the 1st of October, on that day they came within sight of the island of Java. During their course from Savu, Lieu- tenant Cook allowed twenty minutes a day for the westerly current, which he concluded must run strong at this time, especially on the coast of Java ; and ac- cordingly, he found that this allowance was exactly equivalent to the effect of the current upon the ship. Such was the sagacity of our commander's judgment in whatever related to navigation.
On the 2d, two Dutch ships being seen to lie off Anger Point, the lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks on board one of them, to inquire news concerning England, from which our people had so long been absent. Mr. Hicks brought back the agreeable intelligence, that the Swal- low, commanded by Captain Carteret, had been at Ba- tavia two years before. In the morning of the 5th, a prow came alongside of the Endeavour, with a Dutch officer, who sent down to Mr. Cook a printed paper in English, duplicates of which he had in other languages. This paper was regularly signed, in the name of the governor and council of the Indies, by their secretary, and contained nine questions, very ill expressed, two of which only the lieutenant thought proper to answer. These were what regarded the nation and name of his vessel, and whither she was bound. On the 9th, our voyagers stood in for Batavia road, where they found
FIRST VOYAGE. 129
the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English private traders, and a number of Dutch ships. Imme- diately a boat came on board the Endeavour, and the officer who commanded having inquired who our people were, and whence they came, instantly returned with such answers as were given him. In the meantime Mr. Cook sent a lieutenant ashore, to acquaint the governor of his arrival, and to make an apology for not having saluted ; a ceremony he had judged better to omit ; as he could only make use of three guns, ex- cepting the swivels, which he was of opinion would not be heard.
It being universally agreed, that the ship could not safely proceed to Europe without an examination of her bottom, our commander determined to apply for leave to heave her down at Batavia ; and for this pur- pose he drew up a request in writing, which, after he had waited first upon the governor-general, and then upon the council, was readily complied with, and he was told, that he should have every thing he wanted.
In the evening of the 10th, there was a dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, during which the mainmast of one of the Dutch East Indiameu was split, and carried away by the deck ; and the maintop- mast and topgallant-mast were shivered to pieces. The stroke was probably directed by an iron spindle, which was at the maintop gallautmast head. As this ship lay very near the Endeavour, she could scarcely have avoided sharing the same fate, had it not been for the conducting chain, which fortunately had been just gotten up, and which conveyed the lightning over the side of the vessel. But though she escaped the light- ning, the explosion shook her like an earthquake ; and the chain, at the same time, appeared like a line of fire. Mr. Cook has embraced this occasion of earnestly re- commending similar chains to every ship ; and hath expressed his hope, that all who read his narrative will be warned against having an iron spindle at the mast- head.
The English gentlemen had taken up their lodging and boarding at an hotel, or kind of inn, kept by the
VOL. I. K
130 CAPTAIN COOK'S
order of government. Here they met with those im- positions, in point of expense and treatment, which are too common to admit of much surprise. It was not long, however, that they submitted to ill usage. By a farther acquaintance with the manner of dealing with their host, and by spirited remonstrances, they procured a better furnished table. Mr. Banks, in a few days, hired a small house for himself and his party ; and as soon as he was settled in his new habitation, sent for Tupia, who had hitherto continued on board on account of sickness. When he quitted the ship, and after he came into the boat, he was exceedingly lifeless and dejected ; but no sooner did he enter the town, than he appeared to be inspired with another soul. A scene so entirely new and extraordinary filled him with amaze- ment. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and a multiplicity of other objects, rushing upon him at once, produced an effect similar to what is ascribed to en- chantment. His boy, Tayeto, expressed his wonder and delight in a still more rapturous manner. He danced along the streets in a kind of ecstasy, examining every object with a restless and eager curiosity, which was excited and gratified every moment. Tupia's attention was particularly excited by the various dresses of the passing multitude ; and when he was informed, that at Batavia every one wore the dress of his own country, he expressed his desire of appearing in the garb of Otaheite. Accordingly, South Sea cloth being sent for from the ship, he equipped himself with great expedi- tion and dexterity.
Lieutenant Cook imagined that at Batavia he should find it easy to take up what money he might want for repairing and refitting the Endeavour ; but in this he was mistaken. No private person could be found who had ability and inclination to furnish the sum which was necessary. In this exigency, the lieutenant had recourse, by a written request, to the governor, from whom he obtained an order for being supplied out of the Dutch company's treasury.
When our voyagers had been only nine days at Ba- tavia, they began to feel the fatal effects of the climate
FIRST VOYAGE. 131
and situation. Tupia, after his first flow of spirits had suhsided, grew even day worse and worse ; and Taveto was seized with an inflammation upon his lungs. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and, in a little time, almost every person, both on board and on shore, was sick. The distress of our people was indeed very great, and the prospect before them dis- couraging in the highest degree. Tupia, being desirous of breathing a freer air than among' the numerous houses that obstructed it ashore, had a tent erected for him on Coopers Island, to which he was accompanied by Mr. Banks, who attended this poor Indian with the greatest humanity, till he was rendered incapable of doing it, by the violent increase of his own disorder. On the 5th of November, Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon of the ship, a sensible, skilful man, whose loss was not a little aggravated by the situation of the English, fell the first sacrifice to this fatal country. Tayeto died on the 9th, and Tupia, who loved him with the tenderness of a parent, sunk at once after the loss of the boy, and survived him only a few days. The disorders of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander grew to such a height, that the physician declared thev had no chance of preserving their lives but by removing into the country. Accord- ingly, a house was hired for them at the distance of about two miles from the town ; where, in consequence of enjoying a purer air, and being better nursed bv two Malayan women, whom they had bought, they recovered by slow degrees. At length, Lieutenant Cook was him- self taken ill ; and out of the whole ship's companv, not more than ten were able to do duty.
In the midst of these distresses, our commander was diligently and vigorously attentive to the repair of his vessel. When her bottom came to be examined, she was found to be in a worse condition than had been apprehended. Her false keel and main keel were both of them greatly injured ; a large quantity of the sheath- ing was torn off"; and among several planks which were much damaged, two of them, and the half of a third, were so worn for the length of six feet, that they were not above the eighth part of an inch in thickness : and
132 CAPTAIN COOK'S
here the worms had made way quite into the timbers. In this state the Endeavour had sailed many hundred leagues, in a quarter of the globe where navigation is dangerous in the highest degree. It was happy for our voyagers, that they were ignorant of their perilous situation ; for it must have deeply affected them, to have known, that a considerable part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe, and that all their lives depended upon so slight and fragile a barrier between them and the unfathomable ocean.
The repair of the Endeavour was carried on very much to Mr. Cook's satisfaction. In justice to the Dutch officers and workmen, he hath declared, that, in his opinion, there is not a marine yard in the world, where a ship can be laid with more convenience, safety, and dispatch, or repaired with greater diligence and skill. He was particularly pleased with the manner of heaving down by two masts, and gives it a decided preference to the method which had hitherto been practised by the English. The lieutenant was not one of those on whom the bigotry could be charged of adhering to old customs, in opposition to the dictates of reason and experience.
By the 8th of December, the Endeavour was per- fectly refitted. From that time to the 24th, our people were employed in completing her stock of water, pro- visions, and stores, in erecting some new pumps, and in various other necessary operations. All this busi- ness would have been effected much sooner, if it had not been retarded by the general sickness of the men.
In the afternoon of the 24th, our commander took leave of the governor of Batavia, and of several other gentlemen belonging to the place, with whom he had formed connexions, and to whom he had been greatly obliged for their civilities and assistance. In the mean- while, an accident intervened, which might have been attended with disagreeable effects. A seaman, who had run away from one of the Dutch ships in the road, entered on board the Endeavour. Upon his being reclaimed, as a subject of Holland, Mr. Cook, who was on s-hore, declared, that, if the man appeared to be a
FIRST VOYAGE. 133
Dutchman, he should certainly he delivered up. When, however, the order was carried to Mr. Hicks, who commanded on board, he refused to surrender the sea- man, alleging, that he was a subject of Great Britain, born in Ireland. In this conduct, Mr. Hicks acted in perfect conformity to the lieutenant's intention and directions. The captain of the Dutch vessel, in the next place, by a message from the governor-general, demanded the man as a subject of Denmark. To this Mr. Cook replied, that there must be some mistake in the general's message, since he would never demand of him a Danish seaman, whose only crime was that of preferring the English to the Dutch service. At the same time the lieutenant added, that to show the sin- cerity of his desire to avoid disputes, if the man was a Dane, he should be delivered up as a courtesy ; but that, if he appeared to be an English subject, he should be kept at all events. Soon after, a letter was brought from Mr. Hicks, containing indubitable proofs that the seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic majesty. This letter Mr. Cook sent to the governor, with an assurance to his excellency, that he would not part with the man on any terms. A conduct so firm and decisive produced the desired effect, no more being heard of the affair.
In the evening of the 25th, our commander went on board, together with Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen who had resided constantly on shore. The gentlemen, though considerably better, were far from being perfectly recovered. At this time, the sick per- sons in the ship amounted to forty, and the rest of the company were in a very feeble condition. It was re- markable, that every individual had been ill excepting the sailmaker, who was an old man between seventy and eighty years of age, and who was drunk every day during the residence of our people at Batavia. Three seamen and Mr. Green's servant died, besides the sur- geon, Tupia, and Tayeto. Tupia did not entirely fall a sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, and putrid air of the country. As he had been accustomed from his birth, to subsist chiefly upon vegetable food, and parti-
134 CAPTAIN COOK'S
cularly on ripe fruit, he soon contracted the disorders which are incident to a sea life, and would probably have sunk under them before the voyage of the English could have been completed, even if they had not been obliged to go to Batavia to refit their vessel.
Our navigators did not stay at this place without gaining an extensive acquaintance with the produc- tions of the country, and the manners and customs of the inhabitants. The information which was obtained on these heads, will be found to constitute a very valuable addition to what was heretofore known upon the subject.
On Thursday the 27th of December, the Endeavour stood out to sea ; and on the 5th of January, 1771, she came to an anchor, under the south-east side of Prince's Island. The design of this Avas to obtain a recruit of wood and water, and to procure some refreshments for the sick, many of whom had become much worse than they were when they left Batavia. As soon as the vessel was secured, the lieutenant, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore, and were conducted by some Indians they met with to a person who was repre- sented to be the king of the country. After exchanging a few compliments with his majesty, the gentlemen proceeded to business, but could not immediately come to a settlement with him in respect to the price of turtle. They were more successful in their search of a watering-place, having found water conveniently situated, and which they had reason to believe would prove good. As they were going off, some of the na- tives sold them three turtle, under a promise that the king should not be informed of the transaction.
On the next day a traffic was established with the Indians, upon such terms as were offered by the Eng- lish ; so that by night our people had plenty of turtle. The three which had been purchased the evening be- fore were in the mean time dressed for the ship's com- pany, who, excepting on the preceding day, had not, for nearly the space of four months, been once served with salt provisions. Mr. Banks, in the evening, paid his respects to the king at his palace, which was situ-
FIRST VOYAGE. 135
ated in the middle of a rice field. His majesty was busily employed in dressing his own supper ; but this did not prevent him from receiving his visitant in a very gracious manner. During the following davs, the com- merce with the natives for provisions was continued ; in the course of which they brought down to the trad- ing place, not only a quantity of turtle, but fowls, fish, monkeys, small deer, and some vegetables.
On the evening of the 11th, when Mr. Cook went on shore to see how those of his people conducted their business, who were employed in wooding and water- ing, he was informed that an axe had been stolen. As it was a matter of consequence to prevent others from being encouraged to commit thefts of the like kind, he resolved not to pass over the offence, but to insist upon redress from the king. Accordingly, after some altercation, his majesty promised that the axe should be restored in the morning, and the promise was faith- fully performed.
On the 15th, our commander weighed, and stood out for sea. Prince's Island, where he lay about ten days, was formerly much frequented by the India ships of many nations, and especially those of England, but it had lately been forsaken, on account of the supposed badness of its water. This supposition, however, arose from a want of duly examining the brook by which the water is supplied. It is, indeed, brackish at the lower part of the brook, but higher up it will be found ex- cellent. The lieutenant, therefore, was clearly of opi- nion, that Prince's Island is a more eligible place for ships to touch at, than either at North Island or New Bay ; from neither of which places any considerable quantity of other refreshments can be procured.
As the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, the seeds of disease, which had been received at Batavia, appeared with the most threatening symptoms, and reduced our navigators to a very melancholy situation. The ship was, in fact, nothing better than an hospital, in which those who could go about were not sufficient for a dne attendance upon those who were sick. Lest the water which bad
136 CAPTAIN COOK'S
been taken in at Prince's Island should have had any share in adding to the disorder of the men, the lieu- tenant ordered it to be purified with lime ; and, as a farther remedy against infection, he directed all the parts of the vessel between the decks to be washed with vinegar. The malady had taken too deep root to be speedily eradicated. Mr. Banks was reduced so low by it, that for some time there was no hope of his life ; and so fatal was the disease to many others, that almost every night a dead body was committed to the sea. There were buried, in the course of about six weeks, Mr. Sporing, a gentleman who was one of Mr. Banks's assistants ; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter ; Mr. Green, the astronomer ; the boatswain, the car- penter, and his mate ; Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, another midshipman, the old jolly sailmaker and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, and nine seamen. In all, the loss amounted to three and twenty persons, besides the seven who died at Batavia. It is probable that these calamitous events, which could not fail of making a powerful impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, might give occasion to his turning his thoughts more zealously to those methods of preserving the health of seamen, which he afterwards pursued with such re- markable success.
On Friday the 15th of March, the Endeavour arrived off the Cape of Good Hope ; and as soon as she was brought to an anchor, our commander waited upon the governor, from whom he received assurances that he should be furnished with every supply which the country could afford. His first care was to provide a proper place for the sick, whose number was not small ; and a house was speedily found, where it was agreed that they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of two shillings a day for each person.
The run from Java Head to the Cape of Good Hope did not furnish many subjects of remark, that could be of any great use to future voyagers. Such observations, however, as occurred to him, the lieutenant has been careful to record, not being willing to omit the least
FIRST VOYAGE. 137
circumstance that may contribute to the safety and facility of navigation.
The lieutenant, having lain at the Cape to recover the sick, to procure stores, and to refit his vessel, till the 14th of April, then stood out of the bay, and pro- ceeded on his voyage homeward. In the morning of the 29th, he crossed his first meridian, having circum- navigated the globe in the direction from east to west. The consequence of which was, that he lost a day, an allowance for which had been made at Batavia. On the 1st of May he arrived at St. Helena, where he staid till the 4th to refresh ; during which time Mr. Banks employed himself in making the complete circuit of the island, and in visiting the places most worthy of observation.
The manner in which slaves are described as being treated in this island, must be mentioned with indig- nation. According to our commander's representation, while every kind of labour is performed by them, they are not furnished either with horses or with any of the various machines which art has invented to facilitate their task. Carts might conveniently be used in some parts, and where the ground is too steep for them, wheelbarrows might be employed to great advantage ; and yet there is not a wheelbarrow in the whole island. Though every thing which is conveyed from place to place is done by slaves alone, they have not the simple convenience of a porter's knot, but carry their burden upon their heads. They appeared to be a miserable race, worn out by the united operation of excessive labour and ill usage ; and Mr. Cook was sorry to observe, and to say, that instances of wanton cruelty were much more frequent among his countrymen at St. Helena, than among the Dutch, who are generally reproached with want of humanity, both at Batavia and the Cape of Good Hope. It is impossible for a feeling mind to avoid being concerned that such an account should be given of the conduct of any who are entitled to the name of Britons. The lieu- tenant's reproof, if just, hath, it may be hoped, long
138 CAPTAIN COOK'S
before this reached the place, and produced some good effect*. If slavery, that disgrace to religion, to hu- manity, and, I will add, to sound policy, must still be continued, every thing ought to be done which can tend to soften its horrors.
When our commander departed from St. Helena, on the 4th, it was in company with the Portland man of war, and twelve Indiamen. With this fleet he continued to sail till the 10th, when, perceiving that the Endea- vour proceeded much more heavily than any of the other vessels, and that she was not likely to get home so soon as the rest, he made a signal to speak with the Portland. Upon this Captain Elliot himself came on board, and Mr. Cook delivered to him the common log-books of his ship, and the journals of some of the officers. The Endeavour, however, kept in company with the fleet till the morning of the 23d, at which time there was not a single vessel in sight. On that day died Mr. Hicks, and in the evening his body wras committed to the sea, with the usual ceremonies. Mr. Charles Clerke, a young man extremely well qualified for the station, and whose name wall hereafter fre- quently occur, received an order from Mr. Cook to act as lieutenant in Mr. Hicks's room.
The rigging and sails of the ship were now become so bad, that something was continually giving Avay. Nevertheless, our commander pursued his course in safety ; and on the 10th of June, land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the boy who had first seen New Zealand. On the 11th, the lieutenant ran up the channel. At six the next
* Near the conclusion of Captain Cook's second voyage, there is the following short note. " In the account given of St. Helena, in the narrative of my former voyage, I find some mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton cruelty over their slaves ; and they have had wheel carriages and porters' knots for many years." This note I insert with pleasure. Nevertheless, I cannot think that the lieutenant could have gwen so strong a representation of things, if, at the time in which it was written, it had been wholly without foundation.
FIRST VOYAGE. 139
morning he passed Beach y Head ; and in the afternoon of the same dav, he came to an anchor in the Downs, and went on shore at Deal.
Thus ended Mr. Cook's first voyage round the world, in which he had gone through so many dangers, ex- plored so many countries, and exhibited the strongest proofs of his possessing an eminently sagacious and active mind ; a mind that was equal to every perilous enterprise, and to the boldest and most successful efforts of navigation and discovery.
CHAP. III.
Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his first and second Voyage.
The manner in which Lieutenant Cook had performed his circumnavigation of the globe justly entitled him to the protection of government, and the favour of his sovereign. Accordingly, he was promoted to be a com- mander in his majesty's navy, by commission bearing date on the 29th of August, 1771. Mr. Cook, on this occasion, from a certain consciousness of his own merit, wished to have been appointed a post captain. But the Earl of Sandwich, who was now at the head of the Admiralty board, though he had the greatest regard for our navigator, could not concede to his request, be- cause a compliance with it would have been inconsistent with the order of the naval service. The difference was in point of rank only, and not of advantage. A com- mander has the same pay as a post captain, and his authority is the same when he is in actual employment. The distinction is a necessary step in the progress to the higher honours of the profession.
It cannot be doubted, but that the president and council of the Royal Society were highly satisfied with the manner in which the transit of Venus had been observed. The papers of Mr. Cook and Mr. Green, relative to this subject, were put into the hands of the astronomer royal, to be by him digested, and that he might deduce from them the important consequences
140 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK BETWEEN
to science which resulted from the observation. This was done by him with an accuracy and ability becoming his high knowledge and character. On the 21st of May, 1772, Captain Cook communicated to the Royal Society, in a letter addressed to Dr. Maskelyne, an " Account of the flowing of the Tides in the South Sea, as observed on board his Majesty's Bark, the Endeavour."
The reputation our navigator had acquired by his late voyage was deservedly great ; and the desire of the public, to be acquainted with the new scenes and new objects which were now brought to light, was ardently excited. It is not surprising, therefore, that different attempts were made to satisfy the general curiosity. There soon appeared a publication, entitled, " A Journal of a Voyage round the World." This was the produc- tion of some person who had been upon the expedition ; and, though his account was dry and imperfect, it served, in a certain degree, to relieve the eagerness of inquiry. The journal of Sydney Parkinson, draftsman to Sir Jo- seph Banks, to whom it belonged by ample purchase, was likewise printed, from a copy surreptitiously ob- tained ; but an injunction from the Court of Chancery for some time prevented its appearance. This work, though dishonestly given to the world, was recom- mended by plates. But it was Dr. Hawkesworth's account of Lieutenant Cook's voyage which completely gratified the public curiosity. This account, which was written by authority, was drawn up from the journal of the lieutenant, and the papers of Sir Joseph Banks ; and, besides the merit of the composition, derived an extraordinary advantage from the number and excel- lence of its charts and engravings, which were furnished at the expense of government. The large price given by the booksellers for this work, and the avidity with which it was read, displayed, in the strongest light, the anxiety of the nation to be fully informed in every thing that belonged to the late navigation and discoveries.
Captain Cook, during his voyage, had sailed over the Pacific Ocean in many of those latitudes, in which a southern continent had been expected to lie. He had ascertained, that neither New Zealand nor New Holland
HIS FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGE. 141
were parts of such a continent. But the general ques- tion concerning its existence had not been determined by him, nor did he go out for that purpose, though some of the reasons on which the notion of it had been adopted were dispelled in the course of his navigation. It is well known how fondly the idea of a Terra Austra- lia incognita had for nearly two centuries been enter- tained. Many plausible philosophical arguments have been urged in its support, and many facts alleged in its favour. The w liter of this narrative fully remembers how much his imagination was captivated, in the more early part of his life, with the hypothesis of a southern continent. He has often dwelt upon it with rapture, and been highly delighted with the authors who con- tended for its existence, and displaved the mighty con- sequences which would result from its being discovered. Though his knowledge was infinitely exceeded by that of some able men who paid a particular attention to the subject, he did not come behind them in the sanguine- ness of his hopes and expectation. Every thing, how- ever, which relates to science must be separated from fancy, and brought to the test of experiment : and here was an experiment richly deserving to be tried. The object, indeed, was of peculiar magnitude, and worthy to be pursued by a great prince, and a great nation.
Happily, the period was arrived in Britain for the execution of the most important scientific designs. A regard to matters of this kind, though so honourable to crowned heads, had heretofore been too much neglected even by some of the best of our princes. Our present sovereign had already distinguished his reign by his patronage of science and literature ; but the beginnings which had hitherto been made were only the pledges of future munificence. With inspect to the object now in view, the gracious dispositions of his majesty were ardently seconded by the noble lord who had been placed at the head of the board of admiralty. The Earl of Sandwich was possessed of a mind, which w as capa- ble of comprehending and encouraging the most en- larged views and schemes with regard to navigation and discovery. Accordingly, it was by- his particular
142 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK BETWEEN
recommendation that a resolution was formed for the appointment of an expedition, finally to determine the question concerning the existence of a southern conti- nent. Quiros seems to have been the first person, who had any idea that such a continent existed, and he was the first that was sent out for the sole purpose of ascer- taining the fact. He did not succeed in the attempt ; and the attempts of various navigators, down to the present centur\", were equally unsuccessful.
When the design of accomplishing this great object was resolved upon, it did not admit of any hesitation by whom it was to be carried into execution. No person was esteemed equally qualified with Captain Cook, for conducting an enterprise, the view of which was to give the utmost possible extent to the geography of the globe, and the knowledge of navigation. For the greater advantage of the undertaking, it was determined that two ships should be employed ; and much attention was paid to the choice of them, and to their equipment for the service. After mature deliberation by the navy board, during which particular regard was had to the captain's wisdom and experience, it was agreed, that no vessels were so proper for discoveries in distant un- known parts, as those which were constructed like the Endeavour. This opinion concurring with that of the Earl of Sandwich, the admiralty came to a resolution that two ships should be provided of a similar con- struction. Accordingly, two vessels, both of which had been built at Whitby, b}- the same person who built the Endeavour, were purchased of Captain William Hammond, of Hull. They were about fourteen or sixteen months old at the time when they were bought, and, in Captain Cook's judgment, were as well adapted to the intended service as if they had been expressly constructed for that purpose. The largest of the two, which consisted of four hundred and sixty-two tons burden, was named the Resolution. To the other, which was three hundred and thirty-six tons burden, was given the name of the Adventure. On the 28th of November, 1771, Captain Cook was appointed to the command of the former ; and, about the same time,
HIS FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGE. 143
Mr. Tobias Furneaux was promoted to the command of the latter. The complement of the Resolution, in- cluding officers and men, was fixed at a hundred and twelve persons ; and that of the Adventure, at eighty- one. In the equipment of these ships, every circum- stance was attended to that could contribute to the comfort and success of the voyage. They were fitted in the most complete manner, and supplied with every extraordinary- article, which was suggested to be neces- sary or useful. Lord Sandwich, whose zeal was inde- fatigable upon this occasion, visited the vessels from time to time, to be assured that the whole equipment was agreeable to his wishes, and to the satisfaction of those who were to engage in the expedition. Nor were the navy and victualling boards wanting in procuring for the ships the very best of stores and provisions, with some alterations in the species of them, that were adapted to the nature of the enterprise ; besides which, there was an ample supply of antiscorbutic articles, such as malt, sour krout, salted cabbage, portable broth, saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and in- spissated juice of wort and beer.
No less attention was paid to the cause of science in general. The admiralty engaged Mr. William Hodges, an excellent landscape painter, to embark in the voy- age, in order to make drawings and paintings of such objects, as could not so well be comprehended from written descriptions. Mr. John Reinhold Forster and his son were fixed upon to explore and collect the natural history of the countries which might be visited, and an ample sum was granted by parliament for the purpose. That nothing might be wanting to accom- plish the scientific views of the expedition, the board of longitude agreed with Mr. William Wales and Mr. William Bayley, to make astronomical observations. Mr. Wales was stationed in the Resolution, and Mr. Bayley in the Adventure. By the same board they were furnished with the best of instruments, and par- ticularly with four timepieces, three constructed by Arnold, and one by Mr. Kendal, on Mr. Harrison's principles.
144 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK.
Though Captain Cook had been appointed to the command of the Resolution on the 28th of November, 1771, such were the preparations necessary for so long and important a voyage, and the impediments which occasionally and unavoidably occurred, that the ship did not sail from Deptford till the 9th of April follow- ing, nor did she leave Long Reach till the 10th of May. In phing down the river, it was found neces- sary to put into Sheerness, in order to make some alterations in her upper works. These the officers of the vard were directed immediately to take in hand ; and Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in the most effectual manner. The ship being again completed for sea by the 22d of June, Captain Cook on that day sailed from Sheerness, and, on the 3d of Jul}', joined the Adventure in Ply- mouth Sound. Lord Sandwich, in his return from a visit to the dockyards, having met the Resolution on the preceding evening, his lordship and Sir Hugh Pal- liser gave the last mark of their great attention to the object of the voyage, by coming on board, to assure themselves, that every thing was done which was agree- able to our commander's wishes, and that his vessel was equipped entirely to his satisfaction.
At Plymouth, Captain Cook received his instruc- tions ; with regard to which, without entering into a minute detail of them, it is sufficient to say, that he was sent out upon the most enlarged plan of discovery, that is known in the history of navigation. He was in- structed not only to circumnavigate the whole globe, but to circumnavigate it in high southern latitudes, making such traverses, from time to time, into every corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as miffht finally and effectually resolve the much agitated question about the existence of a southern continent, in any part of the southern hemisphere, to which access could be had by the efforts of the boldest and most skilful navigators.
CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 145
CHAP. IV.
Narrative of Captain Cook's Second Voyage round the the World.
On the 13th of July, Captain Cook sailed from Ply- mouth, and on the 29th of the same month anchored in Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. Having ohtained a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries at that island, he left it on the 1st of August, and sailed to the southward. As he proceeded in his voyage, he made three puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt ; and the liquor produced was very brisk and drinkable. The heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship, had hitherto withstood all the endeavours of our people to prevent this juice from being in a high state of fermentation. If it could be kept from ferment- ing it would be a most valuable article at sea.
The captain, having found that his stock of water would not last to the Cape of Good Hope, without putting his men to a scanty allowance, resolved to stop at St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verd islands, for a supply. At Port Praya, in this island, he anchored on the 10th of August, and by the 14th had completed his water, and procured some other refreshments ; upon which he set sail and prosecuted his course. He em- braced the occasion, which his touching at St. Jago afforded him, of giving such a delineation and descrip- tion of Port Praya, and of the supplies there to be obtained, as might be of service to future navigators.
On the 20th of the month, the rain poured down upon our voyagers, not in drops but in streams ; and the wind at the same time being variable and rough, the people wrere obliged to attend so constantly upon the decks, that few of them escaped being completely soaked. This circumstance is mentioned, to show the method that was taken by Captain Cook to preserve his men from the evil consequences of the wet to which they had been exposed. He had every thing to fear from the rain, which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. But to guard against this effect, he pur -
VOL. I. L
146 CAPTAIN COOK'S
sued some hints that had been suggested to him by Sir Hugh Palliser and Captain Campbell, and took care that the ship should be aired and dried with fires made between the decks, and that the damp places of the vessel should be smoked ; beside which the people were ordered to air their bedding, and to wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an opportunity. The result of these precautions was, that there was not one sick person on board the Resolution.
Captain Cook, on the 8th of September, crossed the line in the longitude of 8° west, and proceeded, with- out meeting any thing remarkable, till the 11th of October, when at 6h. 24m. 12s. by Mr. Kendal's watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed ; soon after which the gentlemen prepared to observe the end of the eclipse. The observers were, the captain himself, and Mr. Forster, Mr. Wales, Mr. Pickersgill, Mr. Gil- bert, and Mr. Harvey.
Our commander had been informed, before he left England, that he sailed at an improper season of the j'ear, and that he should meet .with much calm weather, near and under the line. But though such weather may happen in some years, it is not always, or even generally, to be expected. So far was it from being the case with Captain Cook, that he had a brisk south- west wind in those very latitudes where the calms had been predicted : nor was he exposed to any of the tor- nadoes, which are so much spoken of by other navi- gators. On the 29th of the month, between eight and nine o'clock at night, when our voyagers were near the Cape of Good Hope, the whole sea, within the compass of their sight, became at once, as it were, illuminated. The captain had been formerly convinced, by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, that such appearances in the ocean were occasioned by insects. Mr. Forster, how- ever, seemed disposed to adopt a different opinion. To determine the question, our commander ordered some buckets of water to be drawn up from alongside the ship, which were found full of an innumerable quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's head, and quite transparent. Though no life was
SECOND VOYAGE. 147
perceived in them, there could be no doubt of their being living animals, when in their own proper ele- ment ; and Mr. Forster became now well satisfied that they were the cause of the sea's illumination.
On the 30th, the Resolution and Adventure anchored in Table Bay ; soon after which Captain Cook went on shore, and, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and the two Mr. Forsters, waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor of the Cape of Good Hope, who received the gentlemen with great politeness, and promised them every assistance the place could afford. From him our commander learned, that two French ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had discovered land, in the latitude of 48° south, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay, into which they were upon the point of entering, when they were driven off, and separated in a hard gale of wind. Previously to this misfortune, they had lost some of their boats and people, that had been sent to sound the bay. Captain Cook was also informed by Baron Plettenberg, that in the month of March, two other ships, from the island of Mauritius, had touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean ; where they were going to make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion.
From the healthy condition of the crews, both of the Resolution and Adventure, it was imagined by the captain that his stay at the Cape would be very short. But the necessity of waiting till the requisite provi- sions could be prepared and collected, kept him more than three weeks at this place ; which time was im- proved by him in ordering both the ships to be caulked and painted, and in taking care that, in every respect, their condition should be as good as when they left England.
On the 22d of November, our commander sailed from the Cape of Good Hope, and proceeded on his voyage, in search of a southern continent. Having gotten clear of the land, he directed his course for Cape Circumcision; and, judging that cold weather would soon approach, he ordered slops to be served
148 CAPTAIN COOK'S
to such of the people as were in want of them, and gave to each man the fearnought jacket and trowsers allowed by the admiralty. On the 29th, the wind, which was west-north-west, increased to a storm, that continued, with some few intervals of moderate wea- ther, till the 6th of December. By this gale, which was attended with hail and rain, and which blew at times with such violence that the ships could carry no sails, our voyagers were driven far to the eastward of their intended course, and no hopes were left to the captain of reaching Cape Circumcision. A still greater misfortune was the loss of the principal part of the live stock on board, consisting of sheep, hogs, and geese. At the same time, the sudden transition from warm mild weather", to weather which was extremely cold and wet, was so severely felt by our people, that it was necessary to make some addition to their allowance of spirits, by giving each of them a dram on particular occasions.
Our navigators, on the 10th of December, began to meet with islands of ice. One of these islands was so much concealed from them by the haziness of the wea- ther, accompanied with snow and sleet, that they were steering directly towards it, and did not see it till it was at a less distance than that of a mile. Captain Cook judged it to be about fifty feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at the top, and its sides rose in a perpendicular direction, against which the sea broke to a great height. The weather continuing to be hazy, the captain, on account of the ice islands, was obliged to proceed with the utmost caution. Six of them were passed on the twelfth, some of which were nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high : nevertheless, such were the force and height of the waves, that the sea broke quite over them. Hence was exhibited a view, that for a few moments was pleasing to the eye ; but the pleasm-e was soon swallowed up in the horror which seized upon the mind, from the pros- pect of danger. For if a ship should be so unfortunate as to get on the weather side of one of these islands, she would be dashed to pieces in a moment.
SECOND VOYAGE. 149
The vessels, on the 14th, were stopped by an im- mense field of low ice, to which no end could be seen, either to the east, west, or south. In different parts of this field were islands or hills of ice, like those which our voyagers had found floating in the sea, and twenty of which had presented themselves to view the day before. Some of the people on board imagined that they saw land over the ice, and Captain Cook himself at first entertained the same sentiment. But upon more narrowly examining these ice hills, and the va- rious appearances they made when seen through the haze, he was induced to change his opinion. On the 18th, though in the morning our navigators had been quite imbayed, they were, notwithstanding, at length enabled to get clear of the field of ice. They were, however, at the same time, carried in among the ice islands, which perpetually succeeded one another ; which were almost equally dangerous; and the avoid- ing of which was a matter of the greatest difficulty. But perilous as it is to sail in a thick fog, among these floating rocks, as our commander properly called them ; this is preferable to the being entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. In this latter case the great danger to be apprehended, is the getting fast in the ice ; a situation which would be alarming in the highest degree.
' It had been a generally received opinion, that such ice as hath now been described, is formed in bays and rivers. Agreeably to this supposition, our voyagers were led to believe that land was not far distant, and that it lay to the southward behind the ice. As, there- fore, they had sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding a passage to the south, Captain Cook determined to run thirty or forty leagues to the east, and afterwards to endeavour to get to the southward. If, in this attempt, he met with no land or other impediment, his design was to stretch behind the ice, and thus to bring the matter to a decision.
The weather, at this time, affected the senses with a feeling of cold much greater than that which was
150 CAPTAIN COOK'S
pointed out by the thermometer, so that the whole crew complained. In order the better to enable them to sustain the severity of the cold, the captain directed the sleeves of their jackets to be lengthened with baize ; and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff*, strengthened with canvass. These precautions greatly contributed to their comfort and advantage. It is worthy of observation,, that although the weather was as sharp, on the 25th of December, as might have been expected, in the same month of the year, in any part of England, this was the middle of summer with our navigators. Some of the people now appearing to have svmptoms of the scurvy, fresh wort was given them every day, prepared under the direction of the surgeons, from the malt which had been provided for the purpose.
By the 29th, it became sufficiently ascertained, from the course our commander had pursued, that the field of ice, along which the ships had sailed, did not join to any land, as had been conjectured. At this time, Captain Cook came to a resolution, provided he met with no impediment, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision. "While he was prosecuting this design, a gale arose, on the 31st, which brought with it such a sea, as rendered it very dangerous for the vessels to remain among the ice ; and the danger was increased by discovering an immense field to the north, which extended farther than the eye could reach. As our voyagers were not above two or three miles from this field, and were surrounded by loose ice, there was no time to deliberate. They hauled to the south ; and though they happily got clear, it was not till the ships had received several hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of the largest kind. On Friday, the 1st of January, 1773, the gale abated ; and on the next day, in the afternoon, our people had the felicity of enjoying the sight of the moon, the face of which had not been seen by them but once since they had departed from the Cape of Good Hope. Hence a judgment may be formed of the sort of weather they had been exposed
SECOND VOYAGE. 151
to, from the time of their leaving that place. The present opportunity was eagerly seized, for making several observations of the sun and moon.
Captain Cook was now nearly in the same longitude which is assigned to Cape Circumcision, and about ninety-five leagues to the south of the latitude in which it is said to lie. At the same time the weather was so clear, that land might have been seen at the distance of fourteen or fifteen leagues. He concluded it, there- fore, to be very probable, that what Bouvet took for land, was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field ice. Our present navigators had natu- rally been led into a similar mistake. The conjecture, that such ice as had lately been seen was joined to land, Was a very plausible one, though not founded on fact. Upon the whole, there was good reason to believe, that no land was to be met with, under this meridian, be- tween the latitude of fifty-five and fifty-nine, where some had been supposed to exist.
Amidst the obstructions Captain Cook was exposed to, from the ice islands which perpetually succeeded each other, he derived one advantage from them, and that was, a supply of fresh water. Though the melting and stowing away of the ice takes up some time, and is, indeed, rather tedious, this method of watering is otherwise the most expeditious our commander had ever known. The water produced was perfectly sweet and well tasted. Upon the ice islands, penguins, alba- trosses, and other birds were frequently seen. It had hitherto been the received opinion, that such birds never go far from land, and that the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. That this opinion is not well founded, at least where ice islands exist, was now evinced by multiplied experience.
By Sunday the 17th of January, Captain Cook reached the latitude of 67° 15' south, when he could advance no farther. At this time the ice was entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent from east to west-south-west, without the least appearance of any opening. The captain, therefore, thought it no longer prudent to persevere in sailing southward ; especially
152 CAPTAIN COOK'S
as the summer was already half spent, and there was little reason to hope that it would be found practicable to get round the ice. Having taken this resolution, he determined to proceed directly in search of the land which had lately been discovered by the French ; and as, in pursuing his purpose, the weather was clear at intervals, he spread the ships abreast four miles from each other, in order the better to investigate any thing that might lie in their way. On the 1st of Fe- bruary our voyagers were in the latitude of 48° 30' south, and in longitude 58° T east, nearly in the meri- dian of the island of St. Mauritius. This was the situation in which the land said to have been disco- vered by the French was to be expected ; but as to signs of it had appeared, our commander bore away to the east. Captain Furneaux, on the same dav, in- formed Captain Cook that he had just seen a large float of sea, or rock weed, and about it several of the birds called divers. These were certain signs of the vicinitv of land, though whether it lay to the east or west could not possibly be known. Our commander, there- fore, formed the design of proceeding in his present latitude four or five degrees of longitude to the west of the meridian he was uow in, and then to pursue his researches eastward. The west and north-west winds, which had continued for some days, prevented him from carrying this purpose into execution. However, he was convinced, from the perpetual high sea he had lately met with, that there could be no great extent of land to the west.
While Captain Cook, on the next day, was steering eastward, Captain Furneaux told him that he thought the land was to the north-west of them ; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth, when the wind blew in that direction. This observation was by no means conformable to the remarks which had been made by our commander himself. Nevertheless, such was his readiness to attend to every suggestion, that he resolved to clear up the point, if the wind would admit of his getting to the west in any reasonable time. The wind, by veering to the north, did admit of his pursuing
SECOND VOYAGE. 153
the search ; and the result of it was, his conviction that if any laud was near, it could only be an island of no considerable extent.
Captain Cook and his philosophical friends, while they were traversing this part of the southern ocean, paid particular attention to the variation of the com- pass, which they found to be from 27° 50' to 30° 26' west. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4', was the nearest the truth, as it coincided with the variation observed on board the Adventure. One unaccountable circumstance is worthy of notice, though it did not now occur for the first time. It is, that when the sun was on the starboard of the ship, the variation was the least ; and when on the larboard side, the greatest.
On the 8th, our commander, in consequence of no signals having been answered by the Adventure, had reason to apprehend that a separation had taken place. After waiting two days, during which guns were kept discharging, and false fires were burned in the night, the fact was confirmed ; so that the Resolution was obliged to proceed alone in her voyage. As she pur- sued her course, penguins and other birds, from time to time, appeared in great numbers ; the meeting with which gave our navigators some hopes of finding land, and occasioned various speculations with regard to its situation. Experience, however, convinced them, that no stress was to be laid on such hopes. They were so often deceived, that they could no longer look upon any of the oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the vicinity of land.
In the morning of the 17th, between midnight and three o'clock, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to those which are known in the northern hemisphere, by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cook had never heard that an Aurora Australis had been seen before. The officer of the watch observed, that it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a circular form ; at which time, its light was very strong, and its appearance beautiful. It was not perceived to have any particular direction. On the contrary, at various
154 CAPTAIN COOK'S
times, it was conspicuous in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its light throughout the whole atmosphere.
On the 20th, our navigators imagined that they saw land to the south-west. Their conviction of its real existence was so strong, that they had no doubt of the matter ; and accordingly they endeavoured to work up to it, in doing which the weather was favourable to their purpose. However, what had been taken for land proved only to be clouds, that in the evening entirely disappeared, and left a clear horizon, in which nothing could be discerned but ice islands. At night the Aurora Australis was again seen, and the appearance it assumed was very brilliant and luminous. It first discovered itself in the east, and in a short time spread over the whole heavens.
In the night of the 23d, when the ship was in lati- tude 61° 52^ south, and longitude 95° 2' east, the weather being exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, our voyagers were on every side surrounded with danger. In such a situation, it was natural for them to wish for daylight : but daylight, when it came, served only to increase their apprehen- sions, by exhibiting those huge mountains of ice to their view, which the darkness had prevented them from seeing. These unfavourable circumstances, at so advanced a season of the year, discouraged Captain Cook from putting into execution a resolution he had formed, of once more crossing the antarctic circle. According^, early in the morning of the 24th, he stood to the north, with a very hard gale, and a very high sea, which made great destruction among the ice islands. But so far was this incident from being of any advan- tage to our navigators, that it greatly increased the number of pieces they had to avoid. The large pieces, which broke from the ice islands, were found to be much more dangerous than the islands themselves. "While the latter rose so high out of the water, that they could generally be seen, unless the weather was very thick and hazy, before our people nearly ap- proached them, the others could not be discerned, in
SECOND VOYAGE. 155
the night, till they were under the ship's hows. These dangers, however, were now become so familiar to the captain and his company, that the apprehensions they caused were never of long duration ; and a compensa- tion was, in some degree, made for them, by the sea- sonable supplies of fresh water, which the ice islands afforded, and by their very romantic appearance. The foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes and caverns which were formed in many of them greatly heightened the scene ; and the whole exhibited a view, that at once filled the mind with admiration and hor- ror, and could only be described by the hand of an able painter.
In sailing from the 25th to the 28th, the wind was accompanied with a large hollow sea, which rendered Captain Cook certain, that no land, of any considerable extent, could lie within a hundred or a hundred and fifty leagues from east to south-west. Though this was still the summer season in that part of the world, and the weather was become somewhat warmer than it had been before, yet such were the effects of the cold, that a sow having farrowed nine pigs in the morning, all of them, notwithstanding the utmost care to prevent it, were killed before four o'clock in the afternoon. From the same cause, the captain himself and several of his people had their fingers and toes chilblained. For some days afterward, the cold considerably abated ; but still it could not be said that there was summer weather, according to our commander's ideas of summer in the northern hemisphere, as far as sixty degrees of latitude, which was nearly as far as he had then been.
As he proceeded on his voyage, from the 28th of February to the 11th of March, he had ample reason to conclude, from the swell of the sea and other cir- cumstances, that there could be no laud to the south, but what must lie at a great distance.
The weather having been clear on the 13th and 14th, Mr. Wales had an opportunity of getting some obser- vations of the sun and moon ; the results of which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58° 22' south, gave 136° 22* east longitude. Mr. Kendal's and Mr.
156 CAPTAIN COOK'S
Arnold's watches gave each of them 134° 42' ; and this was the first and only time in which they had pointed out the same longitude, since the ships had departed from England. The greatest difference, however, be- tween them, since our voyagers had left the Cape, had not much exceeded two degrees.
From the moderate, and what might almost be called pleasant weather, which had occurred for two or three days, Captain Cook began to wish that he had been a few degrees of latitude farther south ; and he was even tempted to incline his course that way. But he soon met with weather which convinced him that he had proceeded full far enough ; and that the time was ap- proaching when these seas could not be navigated without enduring intense cold. As he advanced in his course, he became perfectly assured, from repeated proofs, that he had left no land behind him in the direction of west-south-west ; and that no land lay to the south on this side sixty degrees of latitude. He came, therefore, to a resolution, on the 17th, to quit the high southern latitudes, and to proceed to New Zea land, with a view of looking for the Adventure, and of refreshing his people. He had, also, some thoughts, and even a desire, of visiting the east coast of Van Dieman's Land, in order to satisfy himself whether it joined the. coast of New South Wales. The wind, however, not permitting him to execute this part of his design, he shaped his course for New Zealand, in sight of which he arrived on the 25th, and where he came to anchor on the day following, in Dusky Bay. He had now been a hundred and seventeen days at sea, during which time he had sailed three thousand six hundred and sixty leagues without having once come within sight of land.
After so long a voyage, in a high southern latitude, it might reasonably have been expected, that many of Captain Cook's people would be ill of the scurvy. This, however, was not the case. So salutan' were the effects of the sweet wort, and several articles of pro- vision, and especially of the frequent airing and sweet- ening of the ship, that there was only one man on
SECOND VOYAGE. 157
board wbo could be said to be much afflicted with the disease ; and even in that man, it was chiefly occa- sioned by a bad habit of body, and a complication of other disorders.
As our commander did not like the place in which be had anchored, he sent Lieutenant Pickersgill over to the south-east side of the bay, in search of a better ; and the lieutenant succeeded in finding a harbour that was in every respect desirable. In the meanwhile, the fishing-boat was very successful ; returning with fish sufficient for the whole crew's supper ; and in the morning of the next day, as many were caught as served for dinner. Hence were derived certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did the shores and woods appear more destitute of wild- fowl ; so that our people had the prospect of enjoying, with ease, what, in their situation, might be called the luxuries of life. These agreeable circumstances deter- mined Captain Cook to stay some time in the bay, in order to examine it thoroughly ; as no one had ever landed before on any of the southern parts of New Zealand.
On the 27th, the ship entered Pickersgill Harbour ; for so it was called, from the name of the gentleman by whom it had first been discovered. Here wood, for fuel and other purposes, was immediately at hand ; and a fine stream of fresh water was not above a hundred yards from the stem of the vessel. Our voyagers, being thus advantageously situated, began vigorously to prepare for their necessary occupations, by clearing places in the woods, in order to set up the astronomers observatory, and the forge for the iron work, and to erect tents for the sailmakers and coopers. They ap- plied themselves, also, to the brewing of beer from the branches or leaves of a tree, which greatly resembled the American black spruce. Captain Cook was per- suaded, from the knowledge which he had of this tree, and from the similarity it bore to the spruce, that, with the addition of inspissated juice of wort and melasses, it would make a very wholesome liquor, and supply the want of vegetables, of which the country was destitute.
158 CAPTAIN COOK'S
It appeared, by the event, that he was not mistaken in his judgment.
Several of the natives were seen on the 28th, who took little notice of the English, and were very shy of access ; and the captain did not choose to force an intercourse with them, as he had been instructed, by former experience, that the best method of obtaining it was to leave the time and place to themselves. While our commander continued in his present situation, he took every opportunity of examining the bay. As he was prosecuting his survey of it, on the 6th of April, his attention was directed to the north side, where he discovered a fine capacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-wateF river. On the west side are several beautiful cascades ; and the shores are so steep that water might directly be conveyed from them into the ship. Feurteen ducks, besides other birds, having been shot in this place, he gave it the name of Duck Cove. When he was returning in the evening, he met with three of the natives, one man and two women, whose fears he soon dissipated, and whom he engaged in a conversation, that was little understood on either side. The youngest of the women had a volubility of tongue that could not be exceeded ; and she entertained Captain Cook, and the gentlemen who accompanied him, with a dance.
By degrees, our commander obtained the good will and confidence of the Indians. His presents, how- ever, were at first received with much indifference, hatchets and spike-nails excepted. At a visit, on the 12th, from a family of the natives, the captain, per- ceiving they approached the ship with great caution, met them in a boat, which he quitted when he came near them, and went into their canoe. After all, he could not prevail upon them to go on board the Reso- lution ; but at length they put on shore in a little creek, and seating themselves abreast of the English vessel, entered into familiar conversation with several of the officers and seamen ; in which they paid a much greater regard to some, whom they probably mistook for females, than to others. So well indeed, were they
SECOND VOYAGE. 159
now reconciled to our voyagers, that they took up their quarters nearly within the distance of a hundred yards from the ship's watering-place. Captain Cook, in his interview with them, had caused the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to beat. The two former they heard with apparent insensibility ; but the latter ex- cited in them a certain degree of attention.
On the 18th, a chief, with whom some connexions had already been formed, was induced, together with his daughter, to come on board the Resolution. Pre- viously to his doing it, he presented the captain with a piece of cloth, and a green talk hatchet. He gave also a piece of cloth to Mr. Forster ; and the girl gave another to Mr. Hodges. Though this custom of making presents, before any are received, is common with the natives of the South Sea isles, our commander had never till now seen it practised in New Zealand. Another thing performed by the chief before he went on board was the taking of a small green branch in his hand, with which he struck the ships side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. This manner, as it were, of making peace is likewise prevalent among all the nations of the South Seas. "When the chief was carried into the cabin, he viewed every part of it with some degree of surprise ; but it was not possible to fix his attention to any one object for a single moment. The works of art appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were equally distant from his powers of comprehension. He and his daughter seemed to be the most struck with the number of the decks, and other parts of the ship.
As Captain Cook proceeded in examining Dusky Bay, he occasionally met with some few more of the natives, with regard to whom he used every mode of concilia- tion. On the 20th, the chief and his family, who had been more intimate with our navigators than anv of the rest of the Indians, went away, and never returned again. This was the more extraordinary, as in all his visits he had been gratified with presents. From dif- ferent persons, he had gotten nine or ten hatchets, and three or four times that number of large spike-nails,
160 CAPTAIN COOK'S
besides a variety of other articles. So far as these things might be deemed riches in New Zealand, he was undoubtedly become by far the most wealthy man in the whole country.
One employment of our voyagers, while in Dusky Bay, consisted in seal-hunting, an animal which was found serviceable for three purposes. The skins were made use of for rigging, the fat afforded oil for the lamps, and the flesh was eaten. On the 24th, the cap- tain, having five geese remaining of those he had brought with him from the Cape of Good Hope, went and left them at a place to which he gave the name of Goose Cove. This place he fixed upon for two reasons ; first, because there were no inhabitants to disturb them ; and, secondly, because here was the greatest supply of proper food ; so that he had no doubt of their breeding, and hoped that in time they might spread over the whole country, to its eminent advantage. Some days afterward, when every thing belonging to the ship had been removed from the shore, he set fire to the topwood in order to dry a piece of ground, which he dug up, and sowed with several sorts of garden seeds. The soil, indeed, was not such as to promise much success to the planter ; but it was the best that could be discovered.
The 25th of April was the eighth fair day our people had successively enjoyed ; and there was reason to believe that such a circumstance was very uncommon in the place where they now lay, and at that season of the year. This favourable weather afforded them the opportunity of more speedily completing their wood and water, and of putting the ship into a condition for sea. On the evening of the 25th, it began to rain ; and the weather was afterward extremely variable, being, at times, in a high degree wet, cold, and stormy. No- thing, however, prevented Captain Cook from pro- secuting, with his usual sagacity and diligence, his search into every part of Dusky Bay ; and, as there are few places in New Zealand where necessary refresh- ments may be so plentifully obtained, as in this bay, he hath taken care to give such a description of it, and of
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the adjacent country, as may be of service to succeed- ing navigators. Although this country lies far remote from what is now the trading part of the world, yet, as he justly observes, we can by no means tell what use future ages may derive from the discoveries made in the present.
The various anchoring places are delineated on our commander's chart, and the most convenient of them he has particularly described. Not only about Dusky Bay, but through all the southern part of the western coast of Tavai-poenammo, the country is exceedingly mountainous. A prospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with ; for, inland, there are only to be seen the summits of mountains of a tremendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, excepting where they are covered with snow. But the laud which borders on the seacoast is thickly clothed with wood almost down to the water's edge ; and this is the case with regard to all the ad- joining islands. The trees are of various kinds, and are lit for almost every possible use. Excepting in the river Thames, Captain Cook had not found finer timber in all New Zealand ; the most considerable species of which is the spruce tree ; for that name he had given it, from the similaritv of its foliage to the American spruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears a greater resemblance to the pitch pine. Many of these trees are so large, that they would be able to furnish mainmasts for fifty-gun ships. Amidst the variety of aromatic trees and shrubs which this part of New Zea- land produced, there was none which bore fruit fit to be eaten. The country was not found so destitute of quadrupeds as was formerly imagined.
As Dusky Bay presented many advantages to our na\ igators, so it was attended with some disagreeable circumstances. There were gr^at numbers of small black sandflies, which were troublesome to a degree that our commander had never experienced before. An- other evil arose from the continual quantity of rain that occurred in the bav. This might, indeed, in part proceed from the season of the year: but it is pre
VOL. i. H
1G2 CAPTAIN COOK'S
bable that the country must at all times be subject to much wet weather, iu consequence of the vast height and vicinity of the mountains. It was remarkable that the rain, though our people were perpetually exposed to it, was not productive of any evil consequences. On the contrary, such of the men as were sick and complaining when they entered the bay, recovered daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous. So happy a circumstance could only be at- tributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh provisions it afforded ; among which the beer was a very material article.
The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are of the same race with the other natives of New Zealand, speak the same language, and adhere nearly to the same customs. Their mode of life appears to be a wandering one ; and though they are few in number, no traces were remarked of their families being connected together in any close bonds of union or friendship.
While the Resolution lay in the bay, Mr. Wales made a variety of scientific observations relative to latitude and longitude, the variation of the compass, and the diversity of the tides.
When Captain Cook left Dusky Bay, he directed his course for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he ex- pected to find the Adventure. This was on the 11th of May, and nothing remarkable occurred till the 17th, when the Avind at once flattened to a calm, the sky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and there was every prognostication of a tempest. Soon after, six waterspouts were seen, four of which rose and spent themselves between the ship and the land ; the fifth was at a considerable distance, on the other side of the vessel ; and the sixth, the progressive mo- tion of which was not in a straight, but in a crooked line, passed within fifty yards of the stern of the Reso- lution, without producing any evil effect. As the cap- tain had been informed that the firing of a gun would dissipate waterspouts, he was sorry that he had not tried the experiment. But, though he was near enough, and had a gun ready for the purpose, his mind was so
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deeply engaged in viewing these extraordinary meteors, that he forgot to give the necessary directions.
On the next day, the Resolution came within sight of Queen Charlotte's Sound, where Captain Cook had the satisfaction of discovering the Adventure ; and both ships felt uncommon joy at thus meeting again after an absence of fourteen weeks. As the events which hap- pened to Captain Furneaux, during the separation of the two vessels, do not fall within the immediate de- sign of the present narrative, it may be sufficient to observe, that he had an opportunity of examining, Avith somewhat more accuracy than had hitherto been done, Van Dieman's Land ; and his opinion was, that there are no straits between this land and New Holland, but a very deep bay. He met, likewise, with farther proofs, that the natives of New Zealand are eaters of human flesh.
The morning after Captain Cook's arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, he went himself, at daybreak, to look for scurvygrass, celery, and other vegetables; and he had the good fortune to return with a boatload, in a very short space of time. Having found, that a suffi- cient quantity of these articles might be obtained for the crews of both the ships, he gave orders that they should be boiled with wheat and portable broth, every dav for breakfast ; and with pease and broth for din- ner. Experience had taught him, that the vegetables now mentioned, when thus dressed, are extremely beneficial to seamen, in removing the various scorbutic complaints to which they are subject.
Our commander had entertained a desire of visiting Van Dieman's Land, in order to inform himself whether it made a part of New Holland. But as this point had been, in a great measure, cleared up by Captain Fur- neaux, he came to a resolution to continue his researches to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46° ; and he directed accordingly, that the ships should be got- ten ready for putting to sea as soon as possible. On the 20th, he sent on shore the only ewe and ram that remained of those which, with the intention of leaving them in this country, he had brought from the Cape of
1€4 CAPTAIN COOK'S
Good Hope. Soon after he visited several gardens, that by order of Captain Furneaux had been made and planted with various articles ; all of which were in such a flourishing state, that, if duly attended to, they promised to be of great utility to the natives. The nest day, Captain Cook himself set some men to work to form a garden on Loug Island, which he stocked with different seeds, and particularlv with the roots of turnips, carrots, parsnips, and potatoes. These were the vegetables that would be of the most real use to the Indians, and of these it was easy to give them an idea, by comparing them with such roots as they them- selves knew. On the 22d, Captain Cook received the unpleasant intelligence, that the ewe and ram, which with so much care and trouble he had brought to this place, were both of them found dead. It was supposed that they had eaten some poisonous plant ; and by this accident all the captain's hopes of stocking New Zea- land with a breed of sheep were instantly blasted.
The intercourse which our great navigator had with the inhabitants of the country, during this his second visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was of a friendly nature. Two or three families took up their abode near the ships, and employed themselves daily in fish- ing, and in supplying the English with the fruits of their labour. No small advantage hence accrued to our people, who were by no means such expert fishers as the natives, nor were any of our methods of fishing equal to theirs. Thus, in almost every state of society, particular arts of life are carried to perfection ; and there is something which the most polished nations may learn from the most barbarous.
On the 2d of June, when the Resolution and Adven- ture were almost ready to put to sea, Captain Cook sent on shore, on the east side of the sound, two goats, a male and female ; and Captain Furneaux left, near Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows. The gentlemen had little doubt but that the country would, in time, be stocked with these animals, provided they were not destroyed by the Indians before they became wild. Afterwards there would be no danger; and as
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the natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it was hoped that it might be some time before they would be discovered.
It is remarkable that, during Captain Cook's second visit to Charlotte Sound, he was not able to recollect the face of any one person whom he had seen there three years before. Nor did it once appear, that even a single Indian had the least knowledge of our com- mander, or of any of our people who had been with him in his last voyage. Hence he thought it highly probable, that the greatest part of the natives who in- habited this sound in the beginning of the year 1770, had either since been driven out of it, or had removed, of their own accord, to some other situation. Not one- third of the inhabitants were there now, that had been seen at that time. Their strong hold on the point of Motuara was deserted, and in every part of the sound many forsaken habitations were discovered. In the captain's opinion, there was not any reason to believe, that the place had ever been very populous. From comparing the two voyages together, it may be col- lected, that the Indians of Eahei-nomauwe are in some- what of a more improved state of society than those of Tavai-poenammo.
Part of the 4th of June was employed by Captain Cook in visiting a chief and a whole tribe of the natives, consisting of between ninety and a hundred persons, including men, women, and children. After the captain had distributed some presents among these people, and shown to the chief the gardens which had been made, he returned on board, and spent the re- mainder of the day in the celebration of his royal master's nativity. Captain Furneaux and all his offi- cers were fan ited upon the occasion ; and the seamen were enabled, by a double allowance, to partake of the general joy.
As some might think it an extraordinary step in our commander, to proceed in discoveries so far south as forty-six degrees of latitude, in the very depth of Avi li- ter, he has recorded his motives for this part of his conduct. Winter, he acknowledges, is by no means
166 CAPTAIN COOK'S
favourable for discoveries. Nevertheless, it appeared to him to be necessary that something should be done in that season, in order to lessen the work in which he was eng-ajjed : and lest he should not be able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific Ocean in the ensuing summer. Besides, if he should discover any land in his route to the east, he would bo ready to begin to explore it, as soon as ever the season should be favourable. Independently of all these con- siderations, he had little to fear ; having two good ships well provided, and both the crews being healthy. Where then could he better employ his time 1 If he did nothing more, he was at least in hopes of being enabled to point out to posterity, that these seas may be navigated, and that it is practicable to pursue dis- coveries even in the depth of winter. Such was the ardour of our navigator for prosecuting the ends of his voyage, in circumstances which would have induced most men to act a more cautious part !
During Captain Cook's stay in the sound, he had observed, that the second visit to this country had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. He had always looked upon the females of New Zealand as more chaste than the generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, such intercourses usually took place in a private manner, and did not appear to be encouraged by the men. But now the captain was told, that the male Indians were the chief promoters of this shameful traffic, and that, for a spikenail, or any other thing they valued, they would oblige the women to prostitute themselves, whether it were agreeable or contrary to their inclinations. At the same time no regard was paid to the privacy which decency required. The account of this fact must be read with concern by every well wisher to the good order and happiness of society, even without adverting to considerations of a higher nature.
On the 7th of June, Captain Cook put to sea from Queen Charlotte's Sound, with the Adventure in com- pany. I shall omit the nautical part of the route from
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New Zealand to Otaheite, which continued till the 15th of August ; and shall only select such circumstances as are more immediately suitable to the design of the pre- sent narrative. It was found, on the 29th of July, that the crew of the Adventure were in a sickly state. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were rendered incapable of duty by the scurvy and flux. At this time, no more than three men were on the sick list on board the Resolution ; and onlv one of these was attacked with the scurvy. Some others, however, began to discover the symptoms of it ; and, accord- ingly, recourse was had to Avort, marmalade of carrots, and the rob of lemons and oranges, with the usual success.
Captain Cook could not account for the prevalence of the scurvy being so much greater in the Adventure than in the Resolution, unless it was owing to the crew of the former being more scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than the crew of the latter, and to their eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. This arose partly from their want of knowing the right sorts, and partly from the dislike which seamen have to the introduction of a new diet. Their aversion to any unusual change of food is so great, that it can only be overcome by the steady and persevering example and authority of a commander. Many of Captain Cook's people, officers as well as com- mon sailors, disliked the boiling of celery, scurvy-grass, and other greens with pease and wheat ; and by some the provision, thus prepared, was refused to be eaten. But, as this had no effect on the captain's conduct, their prejudice gradually subsided : they began to like their diet as much as the rest of their companions ; and, at length, there was hardly a man in the ship who did not attribute the freedom of the crew from the scurvy, to the beer and vegetables which had been made use of at New Zealand. Henceforward, whenever the seamen came to a place where vegetables could be obtained, our commander seldom found it necessary to order them to be gathered ; and, if they were scarce, happy was the person who could lav hold on them first.
168 CAPTAIN COOK'S
On the 1st of August, when the ships were in the latitude of 25° V, and the longitude of 134° 6' west, they were nearly in the same situation with that which is assigned by Captain Carteret for Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in 1767. For this island, therefore, our voyagers diligently looked ; but saw nothing. According to the longitude in which he had placed it, Captain Cook must have passed it fifteen leagues to the west. But as this was uncertain, he did not think it prudent to lose any time in searching for it, as the sickly state of the Adventure's people required as speedy an arrival as possible at a place of refreshment. A sight of it, however, would have been of use in verifying or correcting, not only the longitude of Pit- cairn's Island, but of the others discovered by Captain Carteret in that neighbourhood. It is a diminution of the value of that gentleman's voyage, that his longitude was not confirmed by astronomical observations, and that hence it was liable to errors, the correction of which was out of his power.
As Captain Cook had now gotten to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, he no longer entertained any hopes of discoAering a continent. Islands were all that he could expect to find, until he returned again to the south. In this and his former voyage, he had crossed the ocean in the latitude of 40° and upwards, without meeting any thing which could, in the least, induce him to believe that he should attain the great object of his pursuit. Every circumstance concurred to convince him, that, between the meridian of Ame- rica and New Zealand, there is no southern continent ; and that there is no continent farther to the south, un- less in a very high latitude. This, however, was a point too important to be left to opinions and conjec- tures. It was to be determined by facts ; and the ascertainment of it was appointed, by our commander, for the employment of the ensuing summer.
It was the 6th of August before the ships had the advantage of the trade wind. This they got at south- east, being at that time in the latitude of 19° 36' south, and the longitude of 131° 32' west. As Captain Cook
SECOND VOYAGE. 169
had obtained the south-east trade wind, he directed his course to the west-north-west ; not only with a view of keeping in with the strength of the wind, but also to get to the north of the islands discovered in his former voyage, that he might have a chance of meeting with any other islands which might lie in the way. It was in the track which had been pursued by M. de Bou- gainville that our commander now proceeded. He was sorry that he could not spare time to sail to the north of this track ; but at present, on account of the sickly state of the Adventure's crew, the arriving at a place where refreshments could be procured was an object superior to that of discovery. To four of the islands which were passed by Captain Cook, he gave the names of Resolution Island, Doubtful Island, Fur- neaux Island, and Adventure Island. They are sup- posed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bou- gainville ; and these with several others, which consti- tute a cluster of low and half drowned isles, that gen- tleman distinguished by the appellation of the Dangerous Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced our navigators, that they were surrounded by them, and that it was highly necessary to proceed with the utmost caution, especially in the night.
Early in the morning, on the 15th of August, the ships came within sight of Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, which had been discovered by Captain Wallis. Scon after, Captain Cook acquainted Captain Furneaux, that it was his intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the south-east end of Otaheite, for the purpose of procuring what refreshments he could from that part of the island, before he went down to Matavai. At six in the even- ing the island was seen bearing west ; and our people continued to advance towards it till midnight, when they brought to, till four o'clock in the morning ; after which, they sailed in for the land with a fine breeze at east. At daybreak, thev found themselves within the distance of half a league from the reef; and, at the same time, the breeze began to fail them, and was at last succeeded by a calm. It now became necessary for the boats to be hoisted out, in order to tow oft' the
170 CAPTAIN COOK'S
ships ; but all the efforts of our voyagers, to keep them from being carried near the reef, were insufficient for the purpose. As the calm continued, the situation of the vessels became still more dangerous. Captain Cook, however, entertained hopes of getting round the west- ern point of the reef, and into the bajr. But, about two o'clock in the afternoon, when he came before an open- ing or break of the reef, through which he had flattered himself that he might get with the ships, he found, on sending to examine it, that there was not a sufficient depth of water. Nevertheless, this opening caused such an indraught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to the Resolution ; for as soon as the vessels got into the stream, they were carried towards the reef with great impetuosity. The moment the captain perceived this, he ordered one of the warping machines, which was held in readiness, to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope ; but it did not produce the least effect ; and our navigators had now in prospect the horrors of ship- wreck. Thev were not more than two cables length from the breakers ; and, though it was the only pro- bable method which was left of saving the ships, they could find no bottom to anchor. An anchor, however, they did drop ; but before it took hold, and brought them up, the Resolution was in less than three fathom water, and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under her stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened her crew every moment with destruction. Happily, the Adventure brought up without striking. Presently, the Resolution's people carried out two kedge-anchors, with hawsers to each ; and these found ground a little without the bower. By heaving upon them, and cut- ting away the bower anchor, the ship was gotten afloat, where Captain Cook and his men lay for some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length, the tide ceased to act in the same direction : upon which the captain ordered all the boats to try to tow oft* the vessel. Having found this to be practicable, the two kedges were hove up ;
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and at that moment a light air came off from the land, I)\ which the boats were so much assisted, that the Resolution soon got clear of all danger. Our com- mander then ordered all the boats to assist the Adven- ture ; but before they reached her, she w as under sail with the land breeze, and in a little time joined her companion, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus were our voyagers once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island, at which, but a few days before, they had most ardentlv wished to arrive. It was a peculiarly happy circumstance, that the calm continued, after bringing the ships into so dangerous a state. For if the sea breeze, as is usually the case, had set in, the Resolu- tion must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure likewise.
During the time in which the English were in this critical situation, a number of the natives were either on board or near the vessels in their canoes. Never- theless, the}- seemed to be insensible of our people's danger, showing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when the ships were striking ; and thev went away a little before sunset, quite unconcerned. Though most of them knew Captain Cook again, and many incpiired for Mr. Banks and others who had been with the captain before, it was remarkable that not one of them asked for Tupia.
On the 17th, the Resolution and Adventure anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, immediately upon which they Avere crowded with the inhabitants of the country, who brought with them cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, ap- ples, yams, and other roots, which were exchanged for nails and beads. To some, who called themselves chiefs, our commander made presents of shirts, axes, and several articles beside, in return for which they promised to bring him hogs and fowls ; a promise which they did not perform, and which, as might be judged from their conduct, they had never had the least intention of performing. In the afternoon of the same day, Captain Cook landed in company with Cap-
172 CAPTAIN COOK'S
tain Furneaux, for the purpose of viewing the water- ing-place, and of sounding the disposition of the na- tives. The article of water, which was now much wanted on board, he found might conveniently be ob- tained, and the inhabitants behaved with great civility. Notwithstanding this civility, nothing was brought to market, the next day, but fruit and roots, though it was said that many hogs were seen about the houses in the neighbourhood. The cry was, that they belonged to Waheatoua, the earee de hi, or king ; who had not yet appeared, nor, indeed, any other chief of note. Among the Indians that came on board the Resolution, and no small number of whom did not scruple to call themselves earees, there was one of this sort, who had been entertained in the cabin most of the day, and to all of whose friends Captain Cook had made presents, as well as liberally to himself. At length, however, he was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out of the quarter gallery. Various complaints of the like nature being, at the same time, made against the natives who were on deck, our com- mander turned them all out of the ship. His cabin guest was very rapid in his retreat; and the captain was so exasperated at his behaviour, that after the earee had gotten to some distance from the Resolu- tion, he fired two muskets over his head, by which he was so terrified, that he quitted his canoe, and took to the water. Captain Cook then sent a boat to take the canoe ; but when the boat approached the shore, the people on land began to pelt her with stones. The captain, therefore, being in some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, went himself in another boat to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast, which made all the Indians retire from the shore, and he was suffered to bring away two canoes without the least show of opposition. In a few hours peace was restored, and the canoes were returned to the first person who came for them.
It was not till the evening of this day, that any one inquired after Tupia, and then the inquiry was made by only two or three of the natives. When they learned
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the cause of his death, they were perfectly satisfied ; nor did it appear to our commander that they would have felt a moment's uneasiness, if Tupia's decease had proceeded from any other cause than sickness. Thev were as little concerned about Aotourou, the man who had gone away with M. de Bougainville. But thev were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and for several others who had accompanied Captain Cook in his for- mer voyage.
Since that voyage, very considerable changes had happened in the country. Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed, in a battle which was fought between the two kingdoms about five months before the Resolution's arrival ; and Otoo was now the reigning prince. Tubourai Ta- maide, and several more of the principal friends to the English, had fallen in this battle, together with a large number of the common people. A peace sub- sisted, at present, between the two grand divisions of the island.
On the 20th, one of the natives carried off a musket belonging to the guard on shore. Captain Cook, who was himself a witness of the transaction, sent out some of his people after him ; but this would have been to very little purpose, if the thief had not been inter- cepted by several of his own countrvmen, who pursued him voluntarily, knocked him down, and returned the musket to the English. This act of justice prevented our commander from being placed in a disagreeable situation. If the natives had not given their immediate assistance, it would scarcely have been in his power to have recovered the musket, by any gentle means what- ever ; and if he had been obliged to have recourse to other methods, he was sure of losing more than ten times its value.
The fraud of one, who appeared as a chief, is, per- haps, not unworthy of notice. This man, in a visit to Captain Cook, presented him with a quantity of fruit ; among which were a number of cocoanuts, that had already been exhausted of their liquor by our people, and afterwards thrown overboard. These the chief had
174 CAPTAIN COOK'S
picked tip, and tied so artfully in bundles, that at first the deception was not perceived. When he was in- formed of it, without betraying the least emotion, and affecting a total ignorance of the matter, he opened two or three of the nuts himself, signified that he was satisfied of the fact, and then went on shore and sent off a quantity of plantains and bananas. The ingenuity and the impudence of fraud are not solely the produc- tion of polished society.
Captain Cook, on the 23d, had an interview with Waheatoua, the result of which was that our navi- gators obtained this day as ranch pork as furnished a meal to the crews of both the vessels. In the captain's last voyage, Waheatoua, who was then little more than a boy, was called Tearee ; but having succeeded to his fathers authority, he had assumed his father's name.
The fruits which were procured at Oaiti-piha Bay contributed greatly to the recovery of the sick people belonging to the Adventure. Many of them, who had been so ill as to be incapable of moving without assist- ance, were, in the compass of a few days, so far re- covered that they were able to walk about of them- selves. \STien the Resolution entered the bay, she had but one scorbutic man on board. A marine, who had long been sick, and who died, the second day after her arrival, of a complication of disorders, had not the least mixture of the scurvy.
On the 24th, the ships put to sea, and arrived the next evening in Matavai Bay. Before they could come to an anchor, the decks were crowded with the natives, many of whom Captain Cook knew, and by most of whom he was well remembered. Among a large multitude of people, who were collected together upon the shore, was Otoo, the king of the island. Our commander paid him a visit on the following day, at Oparree, the place of his residence ; and found him to be a fine, personable, well-made man, six feet high, and about thirty years of age. The qualities of his mind were not correspondent to his external appearance : for when Captain Cook endeavoured to obtain from him the promise of a visit on board, he acknowledged
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that he was afraid of the guns, and, indeed, manifested in all his actions that he was a prince of a timorous disposition.
Upon the captain's return from Oparree, he found the tents, and the astronomer's observatories, set up, on the same spot from which the transit of Venus had been observed in 1769. The sick, being twenty in number from the Adventure, and one from the Resolution, all of whom were ill of the scurvy, he ordered to be landed ; and he appointed a guard of marines on shore, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe.
On the 27th, Otoo was prevailed upon, with some degree of reluctance, to pay our commander a visit. He came attended with a numerous train, and brought with him fruits, a hog, two large fish, and a quantity of cloth ; for which he and all his retinue were grati- fied with suitable presents. When Captain Cook con- veyed his guests to land, he was met by a venerable lady, «he mother of the late Toutaha, who seized him by both hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, Toutaha tiyo no toutee matty Toutaha ; that is, "Tou- taha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead." He was so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for him to have refrained from mingling his tears with hers, had not Otoo, who was displeased with the interview, taken him from her. It was with difficulty that the captain could obtain per- mission to see her again, when he gave her an axe and some other articles. Captain Furneaux, at this time, presented the king with two fine goats, which, if no accident befell them, might be expected to multiply.
Several days had passed in a friendly intercourse with the natives, and in the procuring of provisions, when, in the evening of the 30th, the gentlemen on board the Resolution were alarmed with the cry of murder, and with a great noise on shore, near the bottom of the bay, and at a distance from the English encampment. Upon this, Captain Cook, who sus- pected that some of his own men were concerned in the affair, immediately dispatched an armed boat, to know the cause of the disturbance, and to bring oil"
176 CAPTAIN COOK'S
such of his people as should be found in the place. He sent, also, to the Adventure, and to the post on shore, to learn who were missing : for none but those who were upon duty were absent from the Resolution. The boats speedily returned with three marines and a seaman. Some others, likewise, were taken, belong- ing to the Adventure ; and all of them being put under confinement, our commander, the next morning, or- dered them to be punished according to their deserts. He did not find that any mischief had been done, and the men would confess nothing. Some liberties which they had taken with the women had probably given occasion to the disturbance. To whatever cause it was owing, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled from their habitations in the dead of night, and the alarm was spread many miles along the coast. In the morning, when Captain Cook went to visit Otoo, by appointment, he found that he had removed, or rather fled, to a great distance from the usual place of his abode. After arriving where he was, it was some hours before the captain could be admitted to the sight of him ; and then he complained of the riot of the preceding evening.
The sick beino- nearlv recovered, the water com- pleted, and the necessary repairs of the ships finished, Captain Cook determined to put to sea without delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, he ordered every thing to be removed from the shore, and the vessels to be unnloored, in which employment his people were engaged the greater part of the day. In the afternoon of the same day, Lieutenant Pickersgill returned from Attahourou, to which place he had been sent by the captain, for the purpose of procuring some hogs that had been promised. In this expedition, the lieutenant had seen the celebrated Oberea, who has been so much the object of poetical fancy. Her situa- tion was very humble compared with what it had for- merly been. She was not only altered much for the worse in her person, but appeared to be poor, and of little or no consequence or authority in the island. In the e\ening, a favourable wind having sprung up, our
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commander put to sea ; on which occasion he was obliged to dismiss his Otaheite friends sooner than they wished to depart ; but well satisfied with his kind and liberal treatment.
From Matavai Bay, Captain Cook directed his course for the island of Huaheine, where he intended to touch. This island he reached the next day, and, early in the morning of the 3d of September, made sail for the harbour of Owharre, in which he soon came to an anchor. The Adventure, not happening to turn into the harbour with equal facility, got ashore on the north side of the channel ; but, by the timely assistance which Captain Cook had previously provided, in case such an accident should occur, she was gotten off again, with- out receiving any damage. As soon as both the ships were in safety, our commander, together with Captain Furneaux, lauded upon the island, and was received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. A trade immediately commenced ; so that our navigators had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls, which, to people in their situation, was a very desirable circumstance. On the 4th, Lieu- tenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party, toward the south end of the isle. Another trading party was also sent on shore near the ships, which party Captain Cook attended himself, to see that the business was properly conducted at the first setting out, this being a point of no small importance. Every thing being settled to his mind, he went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, to pay a visit to his old friend Oree, the chief of the island. This visit was preceded by manv preparatory ceremonies. Among other things the chief sent to onr commander the inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which he had left with him in July, 1769. It was in the bag that Captain Cook had made for it, together with a piece of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, which had been put in at the same time ; whence it was evident what particular care had been taken of the whole. After the previous ceremonies had been discharged, the captain wanted to go to the king, but
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178 CAPTAIN COOK'S
he was informed that the king would come to him. Accordingly, Oree went up to our commander, and fell on his neck, and embraced him ; nor was it a cere- monious embrace, for the tears which trickled down the venerable old man's cheeks sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart. The presents, which Captain Cook made to the chief on this occasion, consisted of the most valuable articles he had ; for he regarded him as a father. Oree, in return, gave the captain a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all the wants of the English should be supplied ; and it was a promise to which he faithfully adhered. Indeed, he carried his kindness to Captain Cook so far, as not to fail sending him every day, for his table, a plentiful supply of the very best of ready-dressed fruit and roots.
Hitherto, all things had gone on in the most agree- able manner ; but on Monday, the 6th, several circum- stances occurred, which rendered it an unpleasant and troublesome day. When our commander went to the trading-place, he was informed that one of the inhabi- tants had behaved with remarkable insolence. The man was completely equipped in the war habit, had a club in each hand, and seemed bent upon mischief. Captain Cook took, therefore, the clubs from him, broke them before his eyes, and with some difficulty compelled him to retire. About the same time, Mr. Sparrman, who had imprudently gone out alone to botanize, was assaulted by two men, who stripped him of bvbtj thing which he had about him, excepting his trowsers, and struck him again and again with his own hanger, though happily without doing him any harm. When they had accomplished their purpose, they made off; after which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading-place, where the inhabitants, in a large number, were assembled. The instant that Mr. Sparrman appeared in the condition now described, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. Captain Cook, having recalled a few of the Indians, and con- vinced them that he should take no step to injure those
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who were innocent, went to Oree to complain of the outrage. When the chief had heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, and many other of the inhabi- tants did the same. After the first transports of his grief had subsided, he began to expostulate with his people, telling them (for so his language was under- stood by the English) how well Captain Cook had treated them both in this and his former voyage, and how base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a minute account of the things of which Mr. Sparrman had been robbed, and, after having pro- mised to use his utmost endeavours for the recovery of them, desired to go into the captain's boat. At this, the natives, apprehensive doubtless for the safety of their prince, expressed the utmost alarm, and used every argument to dissuade him from so rash a mea- sure. All their remonstrances, however, were in vain. He hastened into the boat ; and as soon as they saw that their beloved chief was wholly in our comman- der's power, they set up a great outcry. Indeed, their grief was inexpressible ; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat ; and every face was bedewed with tears. Even Captain Cook himself was so moved by their distress, that he united his entreaties with theirs, but all to no purpose. Oree in- sisted upon the captain's coming into the boat, which was no sooner done, than he ordered it to be put off*. His sister was the only person among the Indians who behaved with a becoming magnanimity on this occa- sion ; for, with a spirit equal to that of her royal bro- ther, she alone did not oppose his going. It was his design, in coming into the boat of the English, to proceed with them in search of the robbers. Accord- ingly, he went with Captain Cook, as far as it was convenient, by water, when they landed, entei-ed the country, and travelled some miles inland ; in doing which the chief led the way, and inquired after the criminals of every person whom he saw. In this search he would have gone to the very extremity of the island, if our commander, who did not think the object worthy of so laborious a pursuit, had not refused to
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proceed any farther. Besides, as he intended to sail the next morning, and all manner of trade was stopped in consequence of the alarm of the natives, it became the more necessary for him to return, that he might restore things to their former state. It was with great reluctance that Oree wras prevailed upon to discon- tinue the search, and to content himself with sending, at Captain Cook's request, some of his people for the things which had been carried off. When he and the captain had gotten back to the boat, they found there the chief's sister, and several other persons, who had travelled by land to the place. The English gentle- men immediately stepped into their boat, in order to return on board, without so much as asking Oree to accompany them ; notwithstanding which, he insisted upon doing it ; nor could the opposition and entreaties of those who were about him induce him to desist from his purpose. His sister followed his example, uninfluenced, on this occasion, bv the supplications and tears of her daughter. Captain Cook amply rewarded the chief and his sister for the confidence they had placed in him ; and, after dinner, conveyed them both on shore, where some hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced Oree with tears of joy. All was now peace and gladness : the inhabitants crowded in from every part, with such a plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, and vegetable produc- tions, that the English presently filled two boats ; and the chief himself presented the captain with a large hog, and a quantity of fruit. Mr. Sparrmans hanger, the only thing of value which he had lost, was brought back, together with part of his coat; and our navi- gators were told, that the remainiug articles should be restored the next day. Some things which had been stolen from a partv of officers, who had gone out a shooting, were returned in like manner.
The transactions of this day have been the more par- ticularly related, as they show the high opinion which the chief had formed of our commander, and the unre- served confidence that he placed in his integrity and honour. Oree had entered into a solemn friendship
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with Captain Cook, according to all the forms which ■were customary in the country ; and he seemed to think, that this friendship could not be broken by the act of any other persons. It is justly observed by the captain, that another chief may never be found, who, under similar circumstances, will act in the same man- ner. Oree, indeed, had nothing to fear : for it was not our commander's intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment longer than was agreeable to his own desire. But of this how could he and his people be assured ? They were not ignorant, that when he was once in Captain Cook's power, the whole force of the island would not be sufficient to recover him, and that thev must have complied with any demands, however great, for his ransom. The apprehensions, therefore, of the inhabitants, for their chiefs and their own safety, had a reasonable foundation.
Early on the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, the captain went to pay his farewell visit to Oree, and took with him such presents as had not only a fancied value, but a real utility. He left, also, with the chief the inscription plate, that had before been in his pos- session, and another small copper plate, on which were engraved these words : " Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ships, Resolution and Adventure, Septem- ber, 1773." These plates, together with some medals, were put up in a bag ; of which Oree promised to take care, and to produce them to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the island. Having, in return, given a hog to Captain Cook, and loaded his boat with fruit, they took leave of each other, when the good old chief embraced our commander with tears in his eyes. Nothing was mentioned, at this interview, con- cerning the remainder of Mr. Sparrman's property. As it was early in the morning, the captain judged that it had not been brought in, and he was not willing to speak of it to Oree, lest he should give him pain about things which there had not been time to recover. The robbers having soon afterwards been taken, Oree came on board again, to request that our commander would go on shore, either to punish them, or to be present
182 CAPTAIN COOK'S
at their punishment ; but this not being convenient to Lira, he left them to the correction of their own chief. It was from the island of Huaheine that Captain Fur- neaux received into his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, of whom so much hath since been known and written. This choice Captain Cook at first disapproved, as thinking that the youth was not a pro- per sample of the inhabitants of the Society islands ; being inferior to many of them in birth and acquired rank, and not having any peculiar advantage in point of shape, figure, or complexion. The captain after- wards found reason to be better satisfied with Omai's having accompanied our navigators to England.
Dnring the short stay of the vessels at Huaheine, our people were very successful in obtaining supplies of provisions. No less than three hundred hogs, be- sides fowls and fruit, were procured ; and had the ships continued longer at the place, the quantity might have been greatly increased. Such was the fertility of this small island, that none of these articles of refreshment Avere seemingly diminished, but appeared to be as plentiful as ever.
From Huaheine our navigators sailed for Ulietea ; where trade was carried on in the usnal manner, and a most friendlv intercourse renewed between Captain Cook and Oreo, the chief of the island. Here Tupia was inquired after with particular eagerness, and the inquirers were perfectly satisfied with the account which was ffiven of the occasion of that Indian's de- cease.
On the morning of the loth, the English were sur- prised at finding that none of the inhabitants of Ulietea came off" to the ships, as had hitherto been customary. As two men belonging to the Adventure had stayed on shore all night, contrary to orders, Captain Cook's first conjectures were, that the natives had stripped them, and were afraid of the revenge which would be taken of the insult. This, however, was not the case. The men had been treated with great civility, and could assign no cause for the precipitate flight of the Indians. All that the captain could learn was, that
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several were killed, and others wounded, by the grins of the English. This information alarmed him for the safety of some of our people, who had been sent out in two boats to the island of Otaha. He determined, therefore, if possible, to see the chief himself. When he came up to him, Oreo threw his arms around our commander's neck, and burst into tears ; in which he was accompanied bv all the women, and some of the men ; so that the lamentation became general. Asto- nishment alone kept Captain Cook from joining in their grief. At last, the whole which he could collect from his inquiries was, that the natives had been alarmed ou account of the absence of the English boats, and imagined that the captain, upon the supposition of the desertion of his men, would use violent means for the recovery of his loss. When the matter was explained, it was acknowledged that not a single inhabitant, or a single Englishman, had been hurt. This groundless consternation displaved in a strong light the timorous disposition of the people of the Society islands.
Oar navigators were as successful in procuring pro- visions at I lietea as they had been at Huaheine. Cap- tain Cook judged that the number of hogs obtained amounted to four hundred or upwards : many of them, indeed, were only roasters, while others exceeded a hundred pounds in weight; but the general run was from fortv to sixty. A larger quantitv was offered than the ships could contain ; so that our countrymen were enabled to proceed on their voyage with no small decree of comfort and advantage.
Our commander, bv his second visit to the Society islands, gained a farther knowledge of their general state, and of the customs of the inhabitants. It ap- peared, that a Spanish ship had been lately at Otaheite, and the natives complained, that a disease had been communicated to them bv the people of this vessel, which, according to their account, affected the head, the throat, and the stomach, and at length ended in death. With regard to a certain disorder, the effects of which have so fatally been felt in the later ages of
184 CAPTAIN COOK'S
the world, Captain Cook's inquiries could not abso- lutely determine whether it was known to the islanders before they were visited by the Europeans. If it was of recent origin, the introduction of it was, without a dissentient voice, ascribed to the voyage of M. de Bougainville.
One thing which our commander was solicitous to ascertain, was, whether human sacrifices constituted a part of the religious customs of these people. The man of whom he made his inquiries, and several other natives, took some pains to explain the matter ; but, from our people's ignorance of the language of the country, their explication could not be understood. Captain Cook afterwards learned from Omai that the inhabitants of the Society islands offer human sacri- fices to the Supreme Being. What relates to funeral ceremonies excepted, all the knowledge he could ob- tain concerning their religion was very imperfect and defective.
The captain had an opportunity, in this voyage, of rectifying the great injustice which had been done to the women of Otaheite and the neighbouring isles. They had been represented as ready, without excep- tion, to grant the last favour to anv man who would come up to their price : but our commander found that this was bjr no means the case. The favours both of the married women and of the unmarried, of the better sort, were as difficult to be obtained in the Society islands as in anv other country whatever. Even with respect to the unmarried females of the lower class, the charge was not indiscriminately true. There were many of these who would not admit of indecent fami- liarities. The setting this subject in a proper light must be considered as one of the agreeable effects of Captain Cook's second voyage. Every enlightened mind will rejoice at what conduces to the honour of human nature in general, and of the female sex in par- ticular. Chastity is so eminently the glory of that sex, and, indeed, is so essentially connected with the good order of society, that it must be a satisfaction to reflect,
SECOND VOYAGE. 185
that there is no country, however ignorant or barbar- ous, in which this virtue is not regarded as an object of moral obligation.
This voyage enabled our commander to gain some farther knowledge concerning the geography of the Society isles ; and he found it highly probable, that Otaheite is of greater extent than he had computed it in his former estimation. The astronomers did not neglect to set up their observatories, and to make observations suited to their purpose.
On the 17th of September, Captain Cook sailed from Ulietea, directing his course to the west, with an in- clination to the south. Land was discovered on the 23d of the month, to which he gave the name of Har- vey's Island. On the 1st of October, he reached the island of Middleburg. While he was looking about for a landing place, two canoes, each of them conducted by two or three men, came boldly alongside the ship, and some of the people entered it without hesitation. This mark of confidence inspired our commander with so good an opinion of the inhabitants, that he determined, if possible, to pay them a visit, which he did the next day. Scarcely had the vessels gotten to an anchor, before they were surrounded by a great number of canoes, full of the natives, who brought with them cloth, and various curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, and such other articles as were adapted to their fancy. Among those who came on board, was a chief, named Tioony, whose friendship Captain Cook immediately gained by proper presents, consisting prin- cipally of a hatchet and some spikenails. A party of our navigators, with the captain at the head of them, having embarked in two boats, proceeded to shore, where they found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed them to the island with loud acclamations. There was not so much as a stick, or any other weapon, in the hands of a single native, so pacific were their dispositions and intentions. They seemed to be more desirous of giving than receiving ; and many of them, who could not approach near to the boats, threw into them, over the heads of others, whole bales of cloth,
186 CAPTAIN COOK'S
and then retired, without either asking or waiting for any thing in return. The whole day was spent by our navigators in the most agreeable manner. When they returned on board in the evening, everyone expressed how much he was delighted with the country, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in their endeavours to give pleasure to our people. All this conduct appeared to be the result of the most pure good nature, perhaps without being accompanied with much sentiment or feeling ; for when Captain Cook signified to the chief his intention of quitting the island, he did not seem to be in the least moved. Among other articles presented by the captain to Tioony, he left him an assortment of garden seeds, which, if properly used, might be of great future benefit to the country.
From Middleburg, the ships sailed down to Amster- dam, the natives of which island were equally ready with those of the former place to maintain a friendly intercourse with the English. Like the people of Middleburg, they brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, and such other articles as could be of little service ; and for these our seamen were so simple as to barter away their clothes. To put a stop, therefore, to so injurious a traffic, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, the captain gave orders, that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person what- ever. This injunction produced the desired effect. When the inhabitants saw that the English would deal with them for nothing but eatables, they brought off bananas and cocoanuts in abundance, together with some fowls and pigs ; all of which they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth. Even a few old rags were sufficient for the purchase of a pig or a fowl.
The method of carrving on trade being settled, and proper officers having been appointed to prevent dis- putes, our commander's next object was to obtain as complete a knowledge as possible of the island of Am- sterdam. In this he was much facilitated by a friend- ship which he had formed with Attago, one of the chiefs of the country. Captain Cook was struck with
SECOND VOYAGE. 187
admiration, when he surveyed the beauty and cultiva- tion of the island. He thought himself transported into the most fertile plains of Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground. The roads occupied no larger a space than was absolutely necessary, and the fences did not take up above four inches each. Even such a small portion of ground was not wholly lost; for many of the fences themselves contained useful trees or plants. The scene was every where the same ; and nature, as- sisted by a little art, no where assumes a more splendid appearance than in this island.
Friendly as were the natives of Amsterdam, they were not entirely free from the thievish disposition which hath so often been remarked in the islanders of the Southern Ocean. The instances, however, of this kind, which occurred, were not of such a nature as to produce any extraordinary degree of trouble, or to involve our people in a quarrel with the inhabitants.
Captain Cooks introduction to the king of the island afforded a scene somewhat remarkable. His majesty was seated with so much sullen and stupid gravity, that the captain took him for an idiot, whom the Indians, from some superstitious reasons, were ready to worship. When our commander saluted and spoke to him, he neither answered, nor took the least notice of him ; nor did he alter a single feature of his countenance. Even the presents which were made to him could not induce him to resign a bit of his gravity, or to speak one word, or to turn his head either to the right hand or to the left. As he was in the prime of life, it was possible that a false sense of dignity might engage him to assume so solemn a stupidity of appear- ance. In the history of mankind, instances might pro- bably be found which would confirm this supposition.
It is observable, that the two islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam are guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks, which extend out from the shore about one hundred fathoms. On this reef the force of the sea is spent before it reaches the land. The same, indeed, is, in a great measure, the situation of all the tropical isles which our commander had seen in that part of the
188 CAPTAIN COOK'S
globe ; and hence arises an evidence of the wisdom and goodness of Providence ; as by such a provision, nature has effectually secured them from the encroach- ments of the sea, though many of them are mere points, when compared with the vast ocean by which they are surrounded.
In Amsterdam, Mr. Forster not only found the same plants that are at Otaheite and the neighbouring islands, but several others, which are not to be met with in those places. Captain Cook took care, by a proper assortment of garden-seeds and pulse, to increase the vegetable stock of the inhabitants.
Hogs and fowls were the onlv domestic animals that were seen in these islands. The former are of the same sort with those which had been met with in other parts of the Southern Ocean ; but the latter are far superior, being as large as any in Eui-ope, and equal, if not preferable, with respect to the goodness of their flesh.
Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans. Their colour is that of a lightish copper, and with a greater uniformity than occurs among the natives of Otaheite and the Society isles. Some of the English gentlemen were of opinion, that the inhabitants of Middleburg and Amsterdam were a much handsomer race ; while others, with whom Captain Cook con- curred, maintained a contrary sentiment. However this may be, their shape is good, their features regular, and they are active, brisk, and lively. The women, in particular, are the merriest creatures our commander had ever met with : and, provided any person seemed pleased with them, they would keep chattering by his side without the least invitation, or considering whe- ther they were understood. They appeared in general to be modest, though there were several amongst them of a different character. As there were yet on board some complaints of a certain disorder, the captain took all possible care to prevent its communication. Our navigators were frequently entertained by the women with songs, and this in a manner which was by no means disagreeable. They had a method of keeping
SECOND VOYAGE. 189
time, by snapping their fingers. Their music was har- monious as well as their voices, and there was a con- siderable degree of compass in their notes.
A singular custom was found to prevail in these islands. The greater part of the people were observed to have lost one or both of their little fingers ; and this was not peculiar to rank, age, or sex ; nor was the amputation restricted to any specific period of life. Our navigators endeavoured in vain to discover the reason of so extraordinary a practice.
A very extensive knowledge of the language of Middleburg and Amsterdam could not be obtained during the short stay which was made there by the English. However, "the more they inquired into it, the more they found that it was, in general, the same with that which is spoken at Otaheite and the Society isles. The difference is not greater than what fre- quently occurs betwixt the most northern and western parts of England.
On the 7th of October, Captain Cook proceeded on his voyage. His intention was to sail directly to Queen" Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, for the purpose of taking in wood and water, after which he was to pursue his discoveries to the south and the east. The day after he quitted Amsterdam, he passed the island of Pilstart ; an island which had been dis- covered by Tasman.
On the 21st, he made the land of New Zealand, at the distance of eight or ten leagues from Table Cape. As our commander was very desirous of leaving in the countrv such an assortment of animals and vege- tables as might greatly contribute to the future benefit of the inhabitants, one of the first things which he did was to give to a chief, who had come off in a canoe, two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks, together with a quantity of seeds. The seeds were of the most useful kind ; such as wheat, french and kidney beans, pease, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsneps, and yams. The man to whom these several articles were presented, though he was much more enraptured with a spike-nail half the length of his arm, promised, how-
190 CAPTAIN COOK'S
ever, to take care of them, and, in particular, not to kill any of the animals. If he adhered to his promise, they would be sufficient, in a due course of time, to stock the whole island.
It was the 3d of November before Captain Cook brought the Resolution into Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. He had been beating about the island from the 21st of October, during which time his vessel was exposed to a variety of tempestuous weather. In one instance he had been driven off the land by a furious storm, which lasted two days, and which would have been dangerous in the highest de- gree, had it not fortunately happened that it was fair overhead, and that there was no reason to be appre- hensive of a lee-shore. In the course of the bad wea- ther which succeeded this storm, the Adventure was separated from the Resolution, and was never seen or heard of through the whole remainder of the voyage.
The first object of our commander's attention, after his arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, was to provide for the repair of his ship, which had suffered in various respects, and especially in her sails and rigging. Ano- ther matter which called for his notice was the state of the bread belonging to the vessel ; and he had the mortification of finding, that a large quantity of it was damaged. To repair this loss in the best manner he was able, he ordered all the casks to be opened, the bread to be picked, and such parcels of it to be baked, in the copper oven, as could by that means be re- covered. Notwithstanding this care, four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds were found totally unfit for use ; and about three thousand pounds more could only be eaten by people in the situation of our navigators.
Captain Cook was early in his inquiries concerning the animals which had been left at New Zealand, in the former part of his voyage. He saw the youngest of the two sows that Captain Furneaux had put on shore in Cannibal Cove. She was in good condition, and very tame. The boar and other sow, if our commander was rightly informed, were taken away and separated, but
SECOND VOYAGE. 191
not killed. He was told that the two goats, which he had landed up the Sound, had been destroyed by a rascally native of the name of Goubiah ; so that the captain had the grief of discovering that all his bene- volent endeavours to stock the country with useful animals were likely to be frustrated by the very people whom he was anxious to serve. The gardens had met with a better fate. Every thing in them, excepting potatoes, the inhabitants had left entirely to nature, who had so well performed her part, that most of the articles were in a flourishing condition.
Notwithstanding the inattention and folly of the New Zealanders, Captain Cook still continued his zeal for their benefit. To the inhabitants who resided at the Cove, he gave a boar, a young sow, two cocks, aud two hens, which had been brought from the Society islands. At the bottom of the West Bay, he ordered to be landed, without the knowledge of the Indians, four hogs, being three sows and one boar, together with two cocks and two hens. They were carried a little way into the w oods, and as much food was left them as would serve them for ten or twelve days ; which was done to pre- vent their coming down to the shore in search of sus- tenance, and by that means being discovered by the natives. The captain was desirous of replacing the two goats which Goubiah was understood to have killed, by leaving behind him the only two that yet remained in his possession. BuLhe had the misfortune, soon after his arrival at QueenTlharlotte's Sound, to lose the ram ; and this in a manner for which it was not easy to assign the cause. Whether it was owin^ to anv thina: he had eaten, or to his being stung with nettles, which were very plentiful in the place, he was seized with fits that bordered upon madness. In one of these fits, he was supposed to have run into the sea, and to have been drowned : and thus every method which our commander had taken to stock the country with sheep and goats, proved ineffectual. He hoped to be more successful with respect to the boars and sows, and the cocks and hens, which he left in the island.
While the boatswain, one day, and a party of men
192 CAPTAIN COOK'S
were employed in cutting broom, some of them stole several things from a private hut of the natives; in which was deposited most of the treasures they had received from the English, as well as property of their own. Complaint being made by the Indians to Captain Cook, and a particular man of the boatswain's party having been pointed out to the captain, as the person who had committed the theft, he ordered him to be punished in their presence. With this they went away seemingly satisfied, although they did not recover any of the articles which they had lost. It was always a maxim with our commander, to punish the least crimes which any of his people were guilty of with regard to uncivi- lized nations. Their robbing us with impunity he by no means considered as a reason for our treating them in the same manner. Addicted as the New Zealanders Avere, in a certain degree, to stealing, a disposition which must have been very much increased by the no- velty and allurement of the objects presented to their view ; they had, nevertheless, when injured themselves, such a sense of justice as to apply to Captain Cook for redress. The best method, in his opinion, of preserving a good understanding with the inhabitants of countries in this state of society, is, first, to convince them of the superiority we have over them in consequence of our firearms, and then to be always upon our guard. Such a conduct, united with strict honesty and gentle treat- ment, will convince them, that it is their interest not to disturb us, and prevent them from forming any general plan of attack.
In this second visit of our navigators to New Zealand, they met with indubitable evidence that the natives were eaters of human flesh. The proofs of this fact had a most powerful influence on the mind of Oedidee, a youth of Bolabola, whom Captain Cook had brought in the Resolution from Ulietea. He was so affected, that he became perfectly motionless, and exhibited such a picture of horror, that it would have been impossible for art to describe that passion with half the force with which it appeared in bis countenance. When he was roused from this state by some of the English, he burst
SECOND VOYAGE. 193
into tears ; continued to weep and scold by turns ; told the New Zealanders that they were vile men ; and assured them, that he would not he any longer their friend. He would not so much as permit them to come near him ; and he refused to accept or even to touch, the knife by which some human flesh had been cut off. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the abominable custom ; and our commander has justly remarked, that it was an indignation worthy to be imitated by every rational being. The conduct of this young man, upon the present occasion, strongly points out the difference which had taken place, in the pro- gress of civilization, between the inhabitants of the Society islands and those of New Zealand. It was our commander's firm opinion, that the only human flesh which was eaten by these people was that of their enemies, who had been slain iu battle.
During the stay of our voyagers in Queen Char- lotte's Sound, they were plentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a very easy rate; and, besides the vegetables afforded by their own gardens, they every where found plenty of scurvygrass and celery. These Captain Cook ordered to be dressed every day for all his hands. By the attention which he paid to his men in the article of provisions, they had for three months lived principally on a fresh diet, and, at this time, there was not a sick or scorbutic person on board.
The morning before the captain sailed, he wrote a memorandum, containingsuch information as he thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he should put into the sound. This memorandum was buried in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden ; and in such a manner, that it could not avoid being discovered, if either Captain Furneaux, or any other European, should chance to arrive at the cove.
Our commander did not leave New Zealand without making such remarks on the coast between Cape Tee- rawhitte and Cape Palliser as may be of service to future navigators. It being uow the unanimous opi- nion that the Adventure was no wheie upon the island,
vol. i. o
194 CAPTAIN COOK'S
Captain Cook gave up all expectations of seeing her any more during the voyage. This circumstance, how- ever, did not discourage him from fully exploring the southern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which he intended to employ the whole of the ensuing season. When he quitted the coast, he had the satis- faction to find that not a man of the crew was de- jected, or thought that the dangers, they had yet to go through, were in the least augmented by their being alone. Such was the confidence they placed in their commander, that they were as ready to proceed cheer- fully to the south, or wherever he might lead them, as if the Adventure, or e^ en a larger number of ships had been in company.
On the 26th of November, Captain Cook sailed from New Zealand in search of a continent, and steered to the south, inclining to the east. Some days after this, our navigators reckoned themselves to be antipodes to their friends in London, and consequently were at as great a distance from them as possible. The first ice island was seen on the 12th of December, farther south than the first ice which had been met with after leav- ing the Cape of Good Hope, in the preceding year. In the progress of the voyage, ice islands continually occurred, and the navigation became more and more difficult and dangerous. When our people were in the latitude of 67° 5' south, they all at once got within such a cluster of these islands, together with a large quantity of loose pieces, that to keep clear of them was a matter of the utmost difficulty. On the 22d of the month, the Resolution was in the highest latitude she had yet reached ; and circumstances now became so unfavourable, that our commander thought of re- turning more to the north. Here there was no pro- bability of finding any land, or a possibility of getting farther south. To have proceeded, therefore, to the east in this latitude, must have been improper, not only on account of the ice, but because a vast space of sea to the north must have been left unexplored, in which there might lie a large tract of country. It A\as only by visiting those parts, that it could be de-
SECOND VOYAGE. 105
termined whether such a supposition was well founded. As our navigators advanced to the north-east on the 24th, the ice islands increased so fast upon them, that, at noon, they could see nearly a hundred around them, besides an immense number of small pieces. In this situation they spent Christmas day, much in the same manner as they had done in the former year. Happily our people had continual daylight, and clear weather ; for had it been as foggy as it was on some preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have saved them from being dashed to pieces.
While the Resolution was in the high latitudes, many of her company were attacked with a slight fever, occasioned by colds. The disorder, however, yielded to the simplest remedies, and was generally removed in a few days. On the 5th of January, 1774, the ship not being then in much more than fifty de- grees of latitude, there were only one or two persons on the sick list.
After Captain Cook, agreeably to his late resolution, had traversed a large extent of ocean, without disco- vering land, he again directed his course to the south- ward. By the 30th of the month, through obstructions, and difficulties, which, from their similar nature to* those already mentioned, it would be tedious to repeat, he reached to the seventy-first degree of latitude. Thus far had he gone ; but to have proceeded farther would ha\e been the height of folly and madness. It would have been exposing himself, his men, and his ship, to the utmost danger, and perhaps to destruction, without the least prospect of advantage. The captain was of opinion, as indeed were most of the gentlemen on board, that the ice now in sight extended quite to the pole, or might join to some land, to which it might be fixed from the earliest time. If, however, there be such land, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. Though our commander had not only the ambition of going farther than any one had done before, but of proceeding as far as it was possible for man to go, he was the less dissatisfied with
196 CAPTAIN COOK'S
the interruption he now met Avith, as it shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polar regions. In fact he was impelled by inevitable necessity to tack and stand back to the north.
The determination which Captain Cook now formed was to spend the ensuing winter within the tropic, if he met with no employment before he came there. He was well satisfied, that no continent was to be found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south, as to be wholly inaccessible on account of ice. If there existed a continent in the Southern Atlantic Ocean, he was sensible that he could not explore it, without having the whole summer before him. Upon a sup- position, on the other hand, that there is no land there, he might undoubtedly have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April. In that case, he would have put an end to the finding of a continent ; which was indeed the first object of the vo}rage. But this could not satisfy the extensive and magnanimous mind of our commander. He bad a good ship, expressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and was not in want either of stores or of provisions. In such circum- stances, to have quitted this Southern Pacific Ocean, would, he thought, have been betraying not only a want of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing it to have been so well explored, that nothing farther could be done. Although he had proved, that there was no continent but what must lie far to the south, there remained, nevertheless, room for very large islands in places wholly unexamined. Many, like- wise, of those which had formerly been discovered had been but imperfectly explored, and their situations were as imperfectly known. He was also persuaded, that his continuing some time longer in this sea would be productive of improvements in navigation and geo- graphy, as well as in other sciences.
In consequence of these views, it was Captain Cook's intention first to go in search of the land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez, in the last cen- tury. If he should fail in finding this land, he pro-
SECOND VOYAGE. 197
posed to direct his course in quest of Easter Island, or Davis's Laud, the situation of which was known with so little certainty, that none of the attempts lately made for its discovery had been successful. He next in- tended to get within the tropic, and then to proceed to the west, touching at, and settling the situations of such islands, as he might meet with till he arrived at Otaheite, where it was necessary for him to stop, to look for the Adventure. It was also in his contempla- tion to run as far west as the Tierra Austral del Espi- ritu Santo, which Avas discovered by Quiros, and to which M. de Bougainville has given the name of the Great Cyclades. From this laud, it was the captain's plan to steer to the south, and so back to the east, be- tween the latitudes of fifty and sixty. In the execu- tion of this plan, it was his purpose, if possible, to attain the length of Cape Horn in the ensuing No- vember, when he should have the best part of the sum- mer before him, to explore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as was this design, our com- mander thought it capable of being carried into exe- cution ; and when he communicated it to his officers, he had the satisfaction of finding that it received their zealous and cheerful concurrence. They displayed the utmost readiness for executing, in the most effectual manner, every measure he thought proper to adopt. With such good examples to direct them, the seamen were always obedient and alert ; and on the present occasion, so far were they from wishing the voyage to be concluded, that they rejoiced at the prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soon enjoying the benefits of a milder climate.
In pursuing his course to the north, Captain Cook became well assured, that the discovery of Juan Fer- nandez, if any such was ever made, could be nothing more than a small island. At this time, the captain was attacked by a bilious colic, the violence of which confined him to his bed. The management of the ship, upon this occasion, was left to Mr. Cooper, the first oHicer, who conducted her entirely to his commander's satisfaction. It was several days before the most
193 CAPTAIN COOK'S
dangerous symptoms of Captain Cook's disorder were removed ; during which time, Mr. Patten the surgeon, in attending upon him, manifested not only the skil ful- ness of a physiciau, but the tenderness of a nurse. ^\hen the captain began to recover, a favourite dog, belonging to Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to his tender stomach. There was no other fresh meat whatever on board, and he could eat not only of the broth which was made of it, but of the flesh itself, when there was nothing else that he was capable of tasting. Thus did he derive nourishment and strength from food, which, to most people in Europe, would have been in the highest degree disgusting, and productive of sickness. The necessity of the case overcame every feeling of dislike.
On the 11th of March, our navigators came within sight of Easter Island, or Davis's Land ; their transac- tions at which place were of too little moment to de- serve a particular recital. The inhabitants are, in genera], a slender race. In colour, features, and lan- guage, they bear such an affinity to the people of the more western isles, that there can be no doubt of their having been descended from one common original. It is indeed extraordinary, that the same nation should have spread themselves to so wide an extent, as to take in almost a fourth part of the circumference of the globe. With regard to the disposition of the na- tives of Easter Island, it is friendly and hospitable ; but they are as much addicted to stealing, as any of their neighbours. The island itself hath so little to recommend it, that no nation need to contend for the honour of its discovery. So sparing has nature been of her favours to this spot, that there is in it no safe an- chorage, no wood for fuel, no fresh water worth taking on board. The most remarkable objects in the country are some surprising gigantic statues, which were first seen by Roggewein.
It was with pleasure that our commander quitted a place, which could afford such slender accommodations to vovagers, and directed his course for the Marquesas Islands. He had not been long at sea, before he was
SECOND VOYAGE. 199
again attacked by his bilious disorder. The attack, however, was not so violent as the former one had been. He had reason to believe, that the return of his disease was owing to his having exposed and fatigued himself too much at Easter Island.
On the 6th and 7th of April, our navigators came within sight of four islands, which they knew to be the Marquesas. To one of them, which was a new disco- very, Captain Cook gave the name of Hood's Island, after that of the young gentleman by whom it was first seen. As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor in Madre de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of St. Christina, a traffic commenced, in the course of which the natives would frequently keep our goods, without making any return. At last the captain was obliged to fire a musket-ball over one man, who had several times treated the English in this manner. This produced only a temporary effect. Too many of the Indians having come on board, our commander, who was going in a boat to find a convenient place for mooring the ship, said to the officers, " Yon must look well after these people, or they will certainly carr}- off something or other." Scarcely had he gotten into the boat, when he was informed, that they had stolen an iron stanchion from the opposite gangway, and were carrying it oft*. Upon this he ordered his men to fire over the canoe, till he could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one. Such, however, was the noise made by the natives, that the order was not heard ; and the unhappy thief was killed at the first shot. All the Indians having retired with precipitation, in conse- quence of this unfortunate accident, Captain Cook followed them into the bay, prevailed upon some of them to come alongside his boat, and, by suitable pre- sents, so far conciliated their minds, that their fears seemed to be in a great measure allaved. The death of their countrvman did not cure them of their thievish disposition ; but, at length, it was somewhat restrained by their conviction, that no distance secured them from the reach of our muskets. Several smaller instances
200 CAPTAIN COOK'S
of their talent at stealing, the captain thought proper to overlook.
The provisions obtained at St. Christina were yams, plantains, breadfruit, a few cocoanuts, fowls, and small pigs. For a time, the trade was carried on upon rea- sonable terms : but the market was at last ruined by the indiscretion of some young gentlemen, who gave away in exchange various articles which the inhabi- tants had not seen before, and which captivated their fancy above nails, or more useful iron tools. One of the gentlemen had given for a pig a very large quan- tity of red feathers, which he had gotten at Amster- dam. The effect of this was particularly fatal. It was not possible to support the trade, in the manner in which it was now begun, even for a single day. When, therefore, our commander found that he was not likely to be supplied, on any conditions, with sufficient re- freshments, and that the island was neither very con- Aenient for taking in wood and water, nor for affording the necessary repairs of the ship, he determined to pro- ceed immediately to some other place, where the wants of his people could be effectually relieved. After having been nineteen weeks at sea, and having lived all that time upon salt diet, a change in their food could not avoid being peculiarly desirable : and yet, on their arrival at St. Christina, it could scarcely be asserted that a single man was sick ; and there were but a few who had the least complaint of any kind. " This," says Captain Cook, " wras undoubtedly owing to the many antiscorbutic articles w7e had on board, and to the great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in time." It may justly be added, that this was likewise owing to the singular care of the captain himself, and to the exer- tions of his authority, in enforcing the excellent regu- lations which his wisdom and humanity had adopted.
The chief reason for our commander's touching at the Marquesas Islands, was to fix their situation ; that being the only circumstance in which the nautical ac- count of them, given in Mr. Dairy m pie's collection, is
SECOND VOYAGE. 201
deficient. It was farther desirable to settle this point, as it would lead to a more accurate knowledge of Men- dana's other discoveries. Accordingly, Captain Cook has marked the situation of the Marquesas with his usual correctness. He has also taken care to describe the particular cove in Resolution Bay, in the Island of St. Christina, which is most convenient for obtaining wood and water.
It is remarkable, with respect to the inhabitants of the Marquesas Islands, that collectively taken, they are, without exception, the finest race of people in this sea. Perhaps they surpass all other nations in svmmetry of form, and regularity of features. It is plain, however, from the affinity of their language to that of Otaheite and the Society Isles, that they are of the same origin. Of this affinity the English were fully sensible, though they could not converse with them ; but Oedidee was capable of doing it tolerably well.
From the Marquesas, Captain Cook steered for Ota- heite, with a view of falling in with some of the islands discovered by former navigators, and especially by the Dutch, the situation of which had not been accurately determiued. In the course of the voyage, he passed a number of low islots, connected together by reefs of coral rocks. One of the islands, on which Lieutenant Cooper went ashore, with two boats well armed, was called by the natives Tiookea. It had been disco- vered and visited by Captain Byron. The inhabitants of Tiookea are of a much darker colour than those of the higher islands, and appeared to be more fierce in their dispositions. This mav be owing to their manner of gaining their subsistence, which is chiefly from the sea, and to their being much exposed to the sun and the weather. Our voyagers observed, that they were stout well-made men, and that they had marked on tbeii bodies the figure of a fish, which was a good emblem of their profession.
Besides passing by St. George's Islands, which had been so named by Captain Byron, our commander made the discovery of four others. These he called Palliser's Isles, in honour of his particular friend, Sir
202 CAPTAIN COOK'S
Hugh Palliser. The inhabitants seemed to be the same sort of people as those of Tiookea, and, like them, were armed with long pikes. Captain Cook could not determine, with any degree of certainty, whether the group of isles he had lately seen, were, or were not, any of those that had been discovered by the Dutch navigators. This was owing to the neglect of record- ing, with sufficient accuracy, the situation of their dis- coveries. Our commander hath, in general, observed, with regard to this part of the ocean, that, from the latitude of twenty down to fourteen or twelve, and from the meridian of a hundred and thirty-eight to a hundred and fortv-eiarht or a hundred and fiftv west, it is so strewed with low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution.
On the 22d of April, Captain Cook reached the Island of Otaheite, and anchored in Matavai Bay. As his chief reason for putting in at this place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunitv of ascertaining the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate of going, the first object was to land the instruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a guard, and such other people, as it was necessary to have on shore. Sick there were none ; for the refresh- ments which had been obtained at the Marquesas had removed every complaint of that kind.
From the quantity of provisions, which, contrary to expectation, our commander now found at Otaheite, he determined to make a longer stav in the island than he had at first intended. Accordinglv, he took measures for the repairs of the ship, which the high southern latitudes had rendered indispensably necessary.
During Captain Cook's stay at Otaheite, he main- tained a most friendly connexion with the inhabitants ; and a continual interchange of visits was preserved between him and Otoo, Towha, and other chiefs of the country. His traffic with them was greatly facilitated by his having fortunately brought with him some red parrot feathers from the island of Amsterdam. These were jewels of high value in the eyes of the Otaheitans. The captain's stock in trade was by this time greatly
SECOND VOYAGE. 203
exhausted ; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, he would have found it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessary refreshments.
Among other entertainments which our commander and the rest of the English gentlemen met with at Otaheite, one was a grand naval review. The vessels of war consisted of a hundred and sixty large double canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed. They were decorated with flags and streamers ; and the chiefs, together with all those who were on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits. The whole fleet made a noble appearance ; such as our voyagers had never seen before in this sea, or could ever have expected. Besides the vessels of war, there were a hundred and seventy sail of smaller double canoes, which seemed to be designed for transports and vic- tuallers. Upon each of them was a little house ; and they were rigged with mast and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook guessed, that there were no less than seven thousand seven hun- dred and sixty men in the whole fleet. He was not able to obtain full information concerning the design of this armament.
Notwithstanding the agreeable intercourse that was, in general, maintained between our commander and the people of Otaheite, circumstances occasionally happened, which called for peculiar exertions of his prudence and resolution. One of the natives, who had attempted to steal a water-cask from the watering- place, was caught in the fact, sent on board, and put in irons. In this situation, he was seen by King Otoo, and other chiefs. Captain Cook having made known to them the crime of their countryman, Otoo entreated that he might be set at liberty. This the captain how- ever refused, alleging, that since he punished his own people, when they committed the least offence against Otoo's, it was but just that this man should also be punished. As Captain Cook knew that Otoo would not punish him, he resolved to do it himself. Accord- ingly, he directed the criminal to be carried on shore to the tents, and having himself followed, with the
204 CAPTAIN COOK'S
chiefs and other Otaheitans, he ordered the guard out, under arms, and commanded the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo again solicited the culprit's release, and in this he was seconded by his sister, but in vain. The captain expostulated with him on the conduct of the man, and of the Indians in general; telling him, that neither he, nor any of the ship's company, took the smallest matter of property from them without first paying for it ; enumerating the articles which the English had given in exchange for such and such things ; and urging, that it was wrong in them to steal from those who were their friends. He added, that the punishing of the guilty person would be the means of saving the lives of several of Otoo's people, by de- terring them from committing crimes of the like na- ture, and thus preventing them from the danger of being shot to death, which would certainly happen, at one time or other, if they persisted in their robberies. With these arguments the king appeared to be satis- fied, and only desired that the man might not be killed. Captain Cook then directed, that the crowd, which was very great, should be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with a cat-o'-niue-tails. This punish- ment the man sustained with great firmness, after which he was set at liberty. When the natives were going away, Towha called them back, and, with much grace- fulness of action, addressed them in a speech of nearly half an hour in length, the design of which was to condemn their present conduct, and to recommend a different one for the future. To make a farther im- pression upon the minds of the inhabitants, our com- mander ordered his marines to go through their exer- cises, and to load and fire in volleys with ball. As they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is more easy to conceive "than to describe the amazement which pos- sessed the Indians during the whole time, and especially those of them who had not seen any thing of the kind before.
The judicious will discern, with regard to this nar- rative, that it throws peculiar light on Captain Cook's
SECOND VOYAGE. 205
character. Nor is it an uncurious circumstance in the history of human society, that a stranger should thus exercise jurisdiction over the natives of a country, in the presence of the prince of that country, without his authority, and even contrary to his solicitations.
Another disagreeable altercation with the inhabi- tants of Otaheite arose from the negligence of one of the English sentinels on shore. Having either slept or quitted his post, an Indian seized the opportunity of carrying off his musket. When any extraordinary theft was committed, it immediately excited such an alarm among the natives in general, from their fear of Captain Cook's resentment, that they fled from their habitations, and a stop was put to the traffic for pro- visions. On the present occasion, the captain had no small degree of trouble ; but, by his prudent conduct, the musket was recovered, peace restored, and com- merce again opened. In the differences which hap- pened with the several people he met with in his voy- ages, it was a rule with him, never to touch the least article of their property, any farther than to detain their canoes for a while, when it became absolutely ne- cessary. He always chose the most mild and equitable methods of bringing them to reason ; and in this he not only succeeded, but frequently put things upon a better footing than if no contention had taken place.
During this visit to Otaheite, fruit and other re- freshments were obtained in great plenty. The relief arising from them was the more agreeable and salu- tary, as the bread of the ship was in a bad condition. Though the biscuit had been aired and picked at New Zealand, it was now in such a state of decay, that it was necessary for it to undergo another airing and cleaning, in which much of it was found wholly rotten, and unlit to be eaten. This decay was judged to be owing to the ice our navigators had frequently taken in, when to the southward, which made the hold of the vessel cold and damp, and to the great heat that suc- ceeded, when they came to the north. Whatever was the cause, the loss was so considerable, that the men were put to a scanty allowance in this article, with the
206 CAPTAIN COOK'S
additional mortification, of the bread's being bad that could be used.
Two goats, that had been given by Captain Fur- neaux to Otoo, in the former part of the voyage, seemed to promise fair for answering the purposes for which they were left upon the island. The ewe, soon after, had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to be almost ready to propagate. At the same time, the old ewe was again with kid. The people were very fond of them, and they were in excellent condition. From these circumstances, Captain Cook entertained a hope, that, in a course of years, they would multiply so much, as to be extended over all the isles of the Southern Ocean. The like success did not attend the sheep which had been left in the country. These speedily died, one excepted, which was said to be yet alive. Our navigators also furnished the natives with cats, having given away no less than twenty at Otaheite, besides some which had been made presents of at Ulie- tea and Huaheine.
With regard to the number of the inhabitants of Otaheite, our commander collected, from comparing several facts together, that, including women and children, there could not be less, in the whole island, than two hundred and four thousand. This number, at first sight, exceeded his belief. But when he came to re- flect on the vast swarms of people that appeared where- ever he went, he was convinced, that the estimate was agreeable to truth.
Such was the friendly treatment which our vovagers met with at Otaheite, that one of the gunners mates was induced to form a plan for remaining in the coun- try. As he knew that he could not execute his scheme with success, while the Resolution continued in Ma- tavai Bay, he took the opportunity, when she was ready to quit it, and the sails were set for that purpose, to slip overboard. Being a good swimmer, he had no doubt of getting safe to a canoe, which was at some distance ready to receive him ; for his design was concerted with the natives, and had even been encou- raged h\ Otoo. However, he was discwered before
SECOND VOYAGE. 207
lie had gotten clear of the ship, and a boat being pre- sently hoisted out, he was taken up, and brought back to the vessel. When our commander reflected on this man's situation, he did not think him very culpable, or his desire of staying in the island so extraordinary, as might at first vieyv be imagined. He yvas a native of Ireland, and had sailed in the Dutch service. Captain Cook, on his return from his former voyage, had picked him up at Batavia, and had kept him in his employment ever since. It did not appear, that he had either friends or connexions, which could bind him to any particular part of the world. All nations being alike to him, yvhere could he be more happy than at Ota- heite? Here, in one of the finest climates of the globe, he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease and plent}'. The captain seems to think, that if the man had applied to him in time, he might have given his consent to his remaining in the country.
ror'-COLL
C. and C. Whittingham, Chiswick.
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